F/46

Boston Public Library

PURCHASED FROM THE

James Lyman Whitney

MEMORIAL FUND ESTABLISHED BY

James Lyman Whitney

BIBLIOGRAPHER
AND SOMETIME LIBRARIAN

I

COMPLETE GUIDE

TO THE

ENGLISH LAKES

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COMPLETE GUIDE

TO THE

ENGLISH LAKES

HAEEIET MAETINEAU,

ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS BY T. L. ASPLAND
AND W. BANKS,

&vfo a JKap Colour** fficeologtcallg 6g 3to?Jn J^titJ&en.

TO WHICH AEE ADDED AN" ACCOUNT OE THE

FLOWERING PLANTS, PERNS, AND MOSSES OF
THE DISTRICT,

AND A COMPLETE DIBECTORY.

WINDEKMEEE : — JOHN GARNETT.

LONDON: — WHITTAKEB AND CO.

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yfcc .95- ySO1

WINDERMERE: PRINTED BY JOHN GARNETT.

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PREFACE.

The Knoll Ambleside,

March 12th, 1855.

It is now some months since I com-
mitted the manuscript of this Lake Guide
to the publisher's hands; and now that
the work is just ready to appear, I am
thankful to him for the opportunity of
saying, in this prefatory page, with what
pride and pleasure I have looked over
the accessories and embellishments with
which, by his zeal and spirit, and by the
admirable cooperation he has been so
fortunate as to secure, my humble work
is elevated to a quality of real importance.

11. PREFACE.

When I look at Mr. Ruthven's valuable
geological Map, Mr. Aspland's beautiful
illustrative Views, so finely engraved by
Mr. Banks; and, again, the Botanical
contributions, so essential to the perfect
understanding of the Lake District, it
seems to me that the book has become,
by all this aid, one which may not only
be in every tourist's hands, but find a
place on the library shelves of those who
have never visited, and may not contem-
plate visiting, this district of England.
At the same time, the Directories, (a new
feature in a Guide Book) are likely to
make it valuable to residents, who need
no guide to the scenery near their homes.
If my gratitude to my coadjutors causes
me to overrate the product of our labours,
I shall not at least be mistaken in saying
that we have all done our best to set forth
a true presentment of a land we love, in
the hope of inducing and enabling those

PREFACE. 111.

who live in town or plain to know and
love it as we do. If any think that we
have painted it too fair, and that we love
it fanatically, let them come and see.

H. MARTINEAU.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

Page.

WlNDEEMEEE ... ... ... ... ... 3

BOWNESS ... ... ... ... ... 9

Walk by Cook's House ... ... ... 14

Steamboat Trip ... ... ... 16

Fiest Toue. To Purness Abbey and Coniston ... ... 21

Second Toue. To Patterdale and Ambleside ... 33

Thied Toue. To Skelwith and Grasmere ... ... 45

A day on the Mountains ... ... ... ... 57

PART II.

To Keswick from Ambleside ... ... ... ... 67

Excuesions from Keswick ... ... ... 74

I. Derwent Water ... ... ... 74

II. By Watendlath to Borrowdale and back by

Lodore ... ... ... ... 76

III. By Vale of Newlands to Scale Hill, and back

byWhinlatter ... ... ... 83

IV. Circuit of Bassentbwaite ... ... 88

V. Ascent of Skiddaw ... ... ... 90

VI. Ascent of Saddleback ... ... 94

PART III.

CIECUIT OF THE LAKE DISTEICT.

Fiest Toue. Prom Keswick by Patterdale to Ambleside... 103

Second Toue. Prom Ambleside to Strands . . . 106

11.

CONTENTS.

Page.
Thied Toue. From Strands and Wastwater to Scale Hill

Inn ... ... ... ... ... ... 118

Foueth Totje. From Scale Hill to Keswick by Honister

Crag... 131

PART IV.

PASSES AND MOUNTAINS.

Langdale from Borrowdale, by the Stake Pass

Path to Easedale

Path to Esk Hause

Sty Head Pass, from Wastdale to Borrowdale

Ascent of Scawfell

Pass of Scarf Gap ...

Grisedale

Ascent of Helvellyn

Coniston Old Man

Walna Scar

Hawes Water ...

Pass of Nanbield

Weather in the Lake District

145
148
150
152
157
161
163
164
167
167
170
174
177

PART V.

FLOWEEING- PLANTS, PEENS, AND MOSSES,

Windermere and its Neighbourhood
Cumberland

181
192

PART VI.

DIEECTOEY.

The postal address of the Aristocracy, Gentry and Tradespeople of

the District.

INDEX

Adventure on Esk Hause 116
Ambleside 41, 46, 56, 213

Mill 56
Ancient Customs 138
Anecdote of Charcoal Burner 23
Angle Tarn 40, 105, 145
Applethwaite, Cumberland 93

„ Outline of Mountains 93

Approach t} Lakes 5
Ara Force 39, 104, 180

„ View of, facing Titlepage
Armboth Fells 69
Atmospheric Changes 15, 60, 52
Barf (mountain) 89
Barrow House 76

„ Fall 76, 180
Bassenthwaite Lake 71, 88, 180, 226
Beacon 15
Bewitched Cow 142
Birker Force 117, 180, 231
Bishop Watson 15
Biscut How 9
Black Cap (mountain) 145
Blackcombe 57 107, 179
Blacklead Mines 155
Blacksail 161

„ Adventures on 126
Blakefell „ 12?

Bleaberry Tarn 133
Blea Tarn 115, 147
Blea Water, High Street 173
Blelham Tarn 36
Blencathra (mountain,! 96, 179
Boats, instructions about 20
Bobbin Mills 42, 47
Bowness 9, 209

„ Parish Church 11

„ Quay 11

„ Rectory 11
Borrowdale 77, 135, 152, 227
„ Anecdotes of 77
„ Echoes 82
„ Yews 156
„ Hawes 179
Botany 181
Bowder Stone 80

„ View of 152

Bowfell, 7, 48, 146, 179
Bowscale Tarn 101
Brackenthwaite 232
Braithwaite 87, 226
Brathay 19, 44, 46
Bridal of Triermain 70
Brothers' Water 37. 180
Broughton Tower 107
Brougham Castle and Hall 171
Buttermere 86, 131, 180, 229

„ Hawes 179
Cairn on Duumail Raise 68
Calder Abbey 122
„ Bridge 122
Calgarth 43

„ Woods 15
Candlemas Settlements 140
Carrock Fell 179
Castle Crag 72, 81
Castlehead, Derwent 74
Castlehill, view from 77
Castlerigg, view from 71
Castle Rock 70
Cat Bells (mountain) 72, 179
Catchedecam 164
Causey Pike 179
Char and Trout 20, 32
Charges at Hotels 10
Charles Lamb on Skiddaw 93
Cheese (hard) 144
Christopher North 13, 60
Churning 142
Clappersgate 7, 15, 44
Climate 192
Cockley Beck 115
Codale Fell 149
Cold Fell 124
Coldfield (mountain) 37
Colouring of Foliage 12
Colwith Bridge and Force 114 180
Cook's House 16, 33
Coniston Lake 26, 28, 167, 180, 217

„ View of 28

„ Old Man 7, 27, 58, 167, 179
Copper Mine 168
Craig 9
Croft Lodge 7

11.

INDEX.

Crosthwaite Church 71, 83
Crummock Water 84, 180

„ Outline of Mountains 84
Cuckoo in Borrowdale 78
Cur wen's Island 12
Daffodils and Snowdrops 46
Dale Head 227
Dale Management 143
Deepdale 105

Deepening foot of Windermere Lake 17
Derwent Lake 71, 80

„ View of 74

„ River, 80, 89, 145
Devoke Water 169
Dove Nest 18
Drainage 18
Drinking 140
Druidical Remains 170
Druids' Temple 94

„ Legend of 94

Dunmail Raise 68, 49
Dunnerdale 232
Duddon 107
Dungeon Ghyll 48, ISO
Eagles 153
Eagle Crag 145, 152
Easedale Tarn 51, 149
Ecclerigg 18
Egremont 124

„ Traditions of 125
Elizabeth Smith 28
Elleray 7

Elterwater Powder Mills 48
Ennerdale 125, 180, 230
Enviable Abode 15
Eskdale 111, 113, 231
Esk Hause 150
Esthwaite Water 29, 180
Fairfield 7, 58, 179
Falcon Crags 82
Fell Foot, Langdale 115
Ferry, Windermere 12, 13, 32
" Finest View in Westmorland" 48
Fishing 12
Flintoft's Model 72
Floating Island, Derwent 75
Foliage 13
Foxes 168
Fox How 41, 55
Furness Abbey 24
Gaitsgarth 133
Gaits Tarn 168

Ghost Stories of Souter Fell 97
Giant's Grave 171
Gillerthwaite 161
Glaramara 77
Glencoin 38
Glenderatera, river 102
Gowbarrow Park 37, 104

Gowder Crag 82
Grange, Borrowdale 81
Grasmere 49, 52, 137, 164, 180, 219

„ View of 49
Grassmoor 85, 179
Great End 114
Great Gable 129, 145, 179
Great Robinson (mountain) 84
Greta Bank 102

„ Hall, 83

„ River 92, 102
Grisedale 163
„ Pike 179
Tarn 163
Guides on Mountains 5S, 90, 159
Hanging Knotts 145
Hardknot 117

Harrison Stickle (Langdale Pike) 147
Harter Fell 172
Hartley Coleridge 52
Hartsop 37, 105

Haunted House, anecdote of 69
Hawes Water 88, 180
Hawks and Buzzards 62
Hawkshead 29, 220
Hawlghyll 114, 118
Hays Water 40, 105
Hayrick (mountain) 84
Helm Crag (Lion and the Lamb) 49
Helvellyn 49, 179

„ ascent of 163
Heronry 53
Hesket Hawes 170

Highest inhabited House in England 30
Highstile 84j

High Street 7, 34, 105, 172, 174, 179
Hill Bell 7, 179
High Close 49, 147
High Crag 84
High Pike 179
Honister Crag 133, 179

View of 133
Hotels, charges at 10
Ibbotsholme 43
Irt, river 114
Keskadale 84
Kentmere 175
Keswick 72, 222
Kirkstone Pass 179
Kinniside 230
Kidsty Pike 172
Kirkfell 126
Knot Crag 102

Lakes, length, breadth, and depth of 180
Lamplugh Cross 130
Langdale 48, 114, 146, 217

Tarn 114
Langdale Pikes 7, 15, 46, 147, 179
Latrigg 92, 179

INDEX.

111.

Lead Mines 163
Legberthwaite 70, 227
Legend of Ara Force 38
Levers Water 169
Lilly of the Valley 19
Ling Crag 85

Lingmell (mountain) 114, 119
Linthwaite Woods 86

Fell 100
Little Langdale 148
Long Meg and her Daughters 170
Loughrigg, 7, 12, 46, 49, 58

„ Tarn and Terrace 50
Lord Derwentwater 75
Lord's Island 75
Lord's Seat (mountain) 89, 179
Lorton 89

Lowdore Cascade 81, 180
Loweswater, 130, 180, 228
Low Man 92
Lowther Castle 172
Lowwater Tarn 168
Lowwood Hotel 18, 58
Lyulph's Tower 38
Mardale 36, 230
Measand 230
Mellfell 104
Middlefell 114
Milbeck, Keswick 93

„ Langdale 147
Millbreak 85

Miller Brow (unsurpassed view) 15
Mists on Mountains 63
Miterdale 113
Mosedale 16, 120
Mosses and Ferns 189
Mountains, a Day on the 57

height of 179
Museum, Armstrong's 10

„ Crosthwaite's, Keswick 72
Mylnbeck 9
Nab Scar 53, 58, 64
Nag's Head, Wythburn 68
Nanbield 174
Native Genius 79
Need Fire 142
Netherwastdale 231
Newby Bridge 18, 21, 211
Newfield Church 109
Newland Hawes 84
Nook 58
Orrest Head 6
Ouse Bridge 89
Passes 105

Patterdale 37, 104, 163, 229
Pavey Ark 148
Peacock m Borrowdale 80
Peel Wyke 89
Penrith 170

Picturesque Farmsteads 32, 47

Pillar 161, 179

Place FeU 37, 105, 163

Portinscale 83, 225

Pretty Scenery 17

Priest among the Shepherds 62

Professor Wilson 13

Primitive farms 47

Provisions for Pedestrians 57

Pull Cottage 19

Pullwyke Bay 19

Eailway to Windermere 4

„ in Lake District 5, 144
Eain Guages 62
Eampsholm, Derwent 74
Eannersdale Knot 185
Eaven Crag 27
Eayrigg 15, 18
Eectory, Windermere 11
Eed Bank 49
Eed Pike 84, 86, 179
Eed Tarn 164, 180
Eobert Walker, the wonderful 108
Eoman Eoad 34, 174
Eosset Gill 150
Eosthwaite 77, 80
Eothay, river 19
Eotten Pulpit 147
Eoute to the Lakes 3
Euins by Moonlight 26
Eydal Lake 50, 53, 180

„ Mount 47, 54

„ Falls 180

„ Forrest 58

„ Head 179

„ Outline of Mountains 54
Santon Bridge 113
St. Cuthbert, anecdote of 74
St. Herbert, do 74

St. John's Church, Keswick 71
St. John's, vale of 70
St. Mary's College 8
Sawrey 30, 210
Scandale Screes 37
Scale Hill Inn 80, 131

„ Force 80, 85
Scales, village of 96

„ Tarn 96
Scandale Beck 59
Scarf Gap 161
Scawfell 114, 119, 179

„ ascent of 157
Scott, Sir Walter, anecdotes of 13,67, 170
Screes 114, 118
Seathwaite 109, 116, 232

Tarn 168
Seatoller 135
Seat Sandal 68, 164
Seclusion, effects of 76

IV.

INDEX.

Smoking Lime 78
Sharp Edge 101
Shepherds' Crag 82
Shire Stones 115
Slate Quarries 48, 133
Skiddaw 71, 90, 179

„ ascent of 90
Skiddaw Forrest 92

„ view from 92

Skelwith Fold and Force 47
Solitude 51, 61

Sour Milk Ghyll Force 51, 133, 180
Southey 83
Spectral Mists 62
Sprinkling Tarn 20, 150
Squalls on Lakes 20
Stake 144

Stanley Ghyll 112, 180
Statesmen, condition of 139
Station House, Windermere Lake 30
Station, Scale Hill 86
Steamboat Trip 16
Steel FeU 68
Stepping Stones 111
Stickle Tarn 147, 148
Stockghyll Force 43, 180
Stockley Bridge 155
Stock, river 36, 56
Stone Fences 15, 59
Stonethwaite 145
Storm on the Mountains 127
Striding Edge 163
Storrs 13

Stybarrow Crag 37
Sty Head 120, 152, 179

„ Pass 114, 152

„ Tarn 153
Styrups, getting out of 79
Superstitions 142
Swamps, fever and ague 18
Swan Inn, Grasmere 49
Swirrel Edge 164
Tarns, use of 148
Tempest on Mountains 62
Tent Lodge 28
The Knoll 55
The Lark 111
The Wood 9
Thirlmere or Leatheswater 69, 180

Thirlmere Outline of Mountains 69
Thornthwaite 89, 227
Threlkeld 70, 228
Tilberthwaite 169
Torver 107

Trout and Char 20, 32
Troutbeck 33, 176, 212
Ullswater 38, 63, 104, 180

„ Outline of Mountains 104

„ View of 38
UTpha, anecdote of manners 109, 232
Ulverstone 23
Vale of St. John 70, 227
Vicar's Isle, Derwent 74
Wall End 147
Wallowbarrow Crag 72, 75, 82
Walna Scar 167.
Wanlas How 19
Wansfell 41, 58
Wansfell Holme 19
Wastdale Head 119, 153, 230
„ School 119

„ Eural customs 120

Wastwater 112, 118, 180

View of 118
Watendlath 76
Waterspout 131
Waterfalls 180
Weather 177
Weatherlam 115, 169
Whinlatter 87, 89
Whitelees (mountain) 84, 85
Whiteside (mountain) 85
Windermere Lake 46, 54, 180

„ Hotel 8

„ Outline of Mountains 7

„ Perfect view of 46

„ View of, from near Low

Wood 19

„ View of, from near

Storrs 13
Village of 8, 207
Wordsworth's Grave 52

„ Garden 54

Wray Castle 7, 19, 15, 43
Wrynose 115
Wythburn 165, 69, 227
Yewbarrow 114, 119, 161
Yewdale 27, 169

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Ara Force, Gowbarrow Park...
Bowder Stone, Borrowdale
Coniston, from Bank Ground
Derwentwater, from Castle Head
Grasmere, from Red Bank . M
Honister Pass

Rydal Water

Ullswater, upper reach of
Vale of Keswick
Wastwater

Windermere, from near Lowwood
Storrs ...

Royal Hotel, Bowness, Windermere
Waterhead Hotel, Coniston
Windermere, from near the Hotel .
,, from the Crown Hotel

OUTLINES OP MOUNTAINS.

Applethwaite, near Keswick ...
Crummock Water

Rydal

Thirlmere, west side of

Ullswater, from Keswick Road

Windermere, west side of

To face
page,
title

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53'
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118/
19
13 /

v

XV.

•7

IX.

V

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84/

64/

69/

104/

ERRATA.

Page 45, third line, for JEasthwaite, read Easdale.
Page 194, lines 12, 24, 31, for linchens, read lichens.

PART I.

WINDERMERE.

A few years ago there was only one meaning to the
word Wikdermere. It then meant a lake lying
among mountains, and so secluded that it was some
distinction even for the travelled man to have seen it.
Now, there is a Windermere railway station, and a
Windermere post-office and hotel ; — a thriving village
of Windermere and a populous locality. This implies
that a great many people come to the spot ; and the
spot is so changed by their coming, and by other cir-
cumstances, that a new guide book is wanted; for
there is much more to point out than there used to
be; and what used to be pointed out now requires a
wholly new description. Such new guidance and des-
cription we now propose to give.

The traveller arrives, we must suppose, by the rail-
way from Kendal, having been dropped at the Oxen-
holme Junction by the London train from the south,
or the Edinburgh and Carlisle train from the north.

4 MOUNTAIIS" FORMATION.

The railways skirt the lake district, but do not, and
cannot, penetrate it : for the obvious reason that rail-
ways cannot traverse or pierce granite mountains or
span broad lakes. If the time should ever come when
iron roads will intersect the mountainous parts of
Westmorland and Cumberland, that time is not yet ;
nor is in view, — loud as have been the lamentations
of some residents, as if it were to happen to-morrow.
No one who has ascended Dunmail Kaise, or visited
the head of Coniston Lake, or gone by Kirkstone to
Patterdale, will for a moment imagine that any con-
ceivable railway will carry strangers over those passes,
for generations to come. It is a great thing that
steam can convey travellers round the outskirts of the
district, and up to its openings. This is now effectually
done ; and it is all that will be done by the steam
locomotive during the lifetime of anybody yet born.
The most important of the openings thus reached is

that of WlKDERMERE.

The mountain region of Cumberland and Westmor-
land has for its nucleus the cluster of tall mountains,
of which Scawfell is the highest. There are the loftiest
peaks and deepest valleys. These are surrounded by
somewhat lower ridges and shallower vales ; and these
again by others, till the uplands are mere hills and the
valleys scarcely sunk at all. It is into these exterior
undulations that the railways penetrate ; and, at the
first ridge of any steepness, they must stop. It is this
which decides the termination of the Windermere
railroad, and which prevents the lateral railways from
coming nearer than the outer base of the hills on the

OEEEST HEAD. b

east and the coast on the west. When the traveller
on foot or horseback sees certain reaches of Lake
Windermere from Orrest Head, lying deep down below
him, he knows he is coming near the end of the railway,
which cannot yet plunge and climb as our old mail
roads must do, if they exist here at all. As a general
rule, lakes should be approached from the foot, that
the ridges may rise, instead of sinking, before the
observer's eye. But so happy is the access to Winder-
mere from the station, that it is hard to say that it
could have been better ; and that access is, not from
the south to its lower end, but from the south-east to
about its middle. The old coach road over Orrest
Head and the railway meet at the new village of
Windermere, whence the road to Bowness descends,
winding for about a mile and a half, striking the shore
at a point rather more than half way up the lake, and
commanding the group of mountains that cluster about
its head.

Supposing that the traveller desires to see the Win-
dermere scenery thoroughly, we shall divide our direc-
tions into portions ; first exhibiting what is to be seen
in the immediate neighbourhood of the Windermere
Hotel, or within a moderate walk ; and then describing
three tours, two of which may be easily taken in a day
each. One mountain trip will be added, and, these
being faithfully prosecuted, the tourist may be assured
that he has seen all that falls within the scope of a
summer visitor in the opening region of the Lake
District.

A few minutes will take him to Orrest Head, where

a2

6 ELLEEAT.

he will see a lovely view, — a picturesque cottage roof,
surrounded by trees, in the foreground; grey rocks
cropping out of the sward on the other side of the
hedges ; and in front, overlapping hills, range behind
range, with the grey waters of the lake lying below.
Already, a traveller who should remain any time in
the district would find himself introduced to the
humours of a remote region. Odd sayings and doings
remain, and traditions of old singularities are not lost.
This place, Orrest Head, was the residence of the noted
Josiah Brown, who amused himself, a century ago, with
welcoming beggars, whom he supplied with meat and
lodging, — sometimes to the number of twenty in a
night. He called them his "jolly companions ;" and
no doubt he got a world of amusement out of them, in
return for his hopitality. The local saying, " that's too
big a bo-o for a young horse," was Josiah Brown's, and
it was originated thus. He was breaking in a young-
horse, when one of his men took a liberty, — such
as his servants were always taking with him, — but
in this case to be repented of. The fellow hid himself
behind a gate-post, and yelled so tremendously as
his master passed through that Josiah was thrown,
and broke his leg. His good-natured criticism was,
" that was too big a bo-o for a young horse ;" and this
is still the proverbial expression of extreme surprise.

The hill to the right is part of the Elleray property,
so well known as the lake-home of Christopher North,
and now so much improved by its present proprie-
tor, Mr. Eastted. If the traveller should have the
good fortune to obtain a ticket of leave to enter the

if pi

Mi

'•

ELLERAY. 7

grounds,* his first object should be to walk up that hill
at Elleray, by Mr. Eastted's new drive. All the way
up, the views are exquisite : but that from the summit,
— about 700 feet above the lake, is one of the finest
the district can show. The whole length of Winder-
mere extends below, with its enclosing hills and wooded
islands ; and towards the head, some of the high-
est peaks and ridges may be seen : - — Coniston
Old Man to the west ; Bowfell and the Langdale Pikes
to the northwest ; Fairfield to the north, with Lough-
rigg lying, as a mere dark ridge, across the head of
Windermere ; while, to the north-east, Troutbeck is
disclosed, with its peaks of High Street and Hill Bell.
All below are woods, with houses peeping out ; on a
height of the opposite shore, Wray Castle ; further
north, the little Brathay Chapel, set down near the
mouth of the valley ; and between Loughrigg and the
lake, at its head, the white houses of Clappersgate,
with the chateau-like mansion of Croft Lodge conspi-
cuous above the rest. This view is a good deal like

* A portion of the Elleray grounds are open to the public every
Monday and Friday. Tickets of admission, bearing date, are
issued on application to Mr. Garnett, at the Windermere Post-
office, by paying a small donation, not less than one shilling, for a
party of six persons, and, if above that number, the donation must
be doubled. The proceeds are for the benefit of the school for the
education of the poor, established by the Rev. J. A. Addison,
and the sick and aged poor of Windermere, who may need assist-
ance. — Parties will enter at the gate opposite the post-office, and
proceed up the road to the right, which is the main road leading
to the top of the hill, and return by the same route. All branch
roads are strictly private.

a3

» TILLAGE OF WHSTDERMEBE.

the one from the hill behind the Windermere Hotel,
which is reached by a lane turning off from Orrest
Head. The Elleray one is the most extensive and com-
plete to the north : but to enjoy the other, leave will be
readily obtained at the hotel.

The village of Windermere is like nothing that is to
be seen any where else. The new buildings (and all
are new) are of the dark grey stone of the region, and
are for the most part of a mediaeval style of architec-
ture. The Eev. J. A. Addison, of Windermere, has a
passion for ecclesiastical architecture ; and his example
has been a good deal followed. There is the little
church of St . Mary, and there are the schools belonging
to it, with their steep roofs of curiously-shaped slates :
and there is St. Mary's Abbey, (new, in spite of its
antique name), and St. Mary's Cottage. And there
will be the new college of St. Mary, standing in a fine
position, between the main road and the descent to the
lake. This college, of which the Eev. J. A. Addison
is the warden, is designed to afford a cheap and
thorough education, on sound church principles, to
the sons of clergymen chiefly, though not exclusively.
It is under high patronage, ecclesiastical and local.
The pupils, in a college garb of the olden time, are a
curious feature in the aspect of the place ; and they
will be more so when they get their new buildings to
live in. Judging by the plan and elevation put forth,
the edifice will be in excellent taste, and a great adorn-
ment to the neighbourhood. The large house, on the
hill and amidst the woods of the Elleray estate, and
often mistaken for the new college, is the property of

ROAD TO BOWNES8. 9

John Gandy, Esq., who has chosen a charming site
for his abode ; and a little further, on the same side of
the road, is the pretty villa-residence of Miss Yates.
There are villas on either side the road, on almost
every favourable spot, all the way to Bowness. The
road past the college grounds leaves the other
one to be called by the inevitable title of "the old
road." We pass rows of lodging-houses ; and then we
see to the right the spot where the college is to be :
and to the left Ellerthwaite, the residence of Mr. Geo.
H. Gardner; and then, to the right, the cottage of
Mylnbeck, the residence of the Misses Watson, daugh-
ters of the late bishop of Llandaif : a common house
in its aspect towards the road, but, as seen over the
wall, very pretty in its garden-front. The next gate
on the left is the entrance to the Craig, built by Sir
Thomas Pasley, and now inhabited by W. E. Greg,
Esq. Below this, the houses begin to thicken about
the entrance to Bowness. Among them, a road to the
left leads to one of the most charming points of view in
the neighbourhood, — a hill named Biscut How, crested
with rocks, which afford as fine a station as the sum-
mit of Elleray for a view of the entire lake and its
shores.

BOWNESS

Is the port of Windermere. There the new steamboats
put up; and thence go forth the greater number of
fishing and pleasure boats which adorn the lake. There
is a good deal of bustle in the place ; and the lower
parts, near the water, are very hot in summer : and the
more since the building of a new lodging house in a

10 BOWNESS.

space near the church, which used to be called the lungs
of Bowness. The two great inns, however, are in airy
situations, — the garden platform of Ullock's Royal
Hotel overlooking the gardens that slope down to the
shot e ; and the Crown being on a hill which commands
the whole place. These inns are both extremely well
managed; and it is for the traveller to say whether
their charges, which are uniform, justify a complaint
which has been made, (we think unreasonably as
regards the Lake District in general) of high prices.
During the season, which extends from May to Novem-
ber, the charges are two shillings for breakfast, (including
meat, fish, &c.,) two shillings and sixpence for dinner ;
and one shilling and sixpence for tea. A private sitting-
room is charged two shillings and sixpence per day.
Ullock's Hotel, called Royal since the visit of Queen
Adelaide in 1840, makes up between seventy and eighty
beds. Close at hand is a little museum, where the birds
of the district may be seen, exceedingly well stuffed
and arranged by Mr. Armstrong, a waiter at the hotel.
The Crown has ten private sitting rooms, and makes up
ninety beds. Nothing can well exceed the beauty of
the view from its garden seats.

There is an exhibition open in Bowness during the
summer months, which, it will be useful, and particu-
larly agreeable to the stranger to visit, before he pene-
trates further into the district. Mr. and Mrs. Lindsey
Aspland exhibit their paintings of lake scenery every
summer ; and their pictures are of a high order of merit
as works of art, as well as for their fidelity as portraits
of scenery. Mr. Aspland's outline sketches are excel-

THE SHORE. 11

lent ; and those on which the passes are clearly indicated
are of especial value to the pedestrian tourist.

The old churchyard of Bowness, with its dark yews,
and the weather-worn church, long and low, is the
most venerable object in the place. The chancel win-
dow of the church contains painted glass from Furness
Abbey. The tomb of Bishop Watson will be found in
the churchyard, near the east window. The rectory,
which is hardly less venerable than the church, stands
at a considerable distance from the village, and is
approached through fields and a garden. The old-
fashioned porch is there, of which this is said to be
the last remaining instance in the whole district, — the
roomy, substantial porch, with benches on each side,
long enough to hold a little company of parishioners,
and a round ivy-clad chimney immediately surmount-
ing the porch. Within, there is abundant space, with
little elevation ; — plenty of room in the hall and
parlours, with ceilings that one can touch with the
hand. Almost every other noticeable edifice in Bow-
ness is new, or at least modern ; the schools, the gift
of the late Mr. Bolton, of Storrs Hall, — the Italian
villa, called Belsfield, the property of the Baroness de
Sternberg, and many others.

The visitor will first repair to the strand, to salute
the waters. He will find a good quay, with boats in
abundance, and several boat-houses within view. A
substantial little pier is built out into the lake ; and
on either side is a steamboat moored during winter ;
and to the end these two steamers come, six times a
day each, during the summer. To the right, gardens

12 EEREY MB.

slope down to this little bay ; and they look gay even
in winter from their profusion of evergreens, and from
the ivy which clothes their walls. The church just
peeps out behind the houses above. Looking over the
lake, Curwen's Island is just opposite. In May and
early June, the woods of that island, and of all the
promontories round, present a most diversified foliage,
— from the golden tufts of the oak to the sombre hue
of the pines, with every gradation of green between. In
July and August, the woods are what some call too
green, — massy and impenetrable, — casting deep sha-
dows on the sward and the waters. Within the shadow
on the shore stands the angler, watching the dimpling
of the surface, as the fly touches it, or the fish leaps
from it : and within the shadow on the water, the boat
swings idly with the current ; and the student, come
hither for recreation, reads or sleeps as he reclines,
waiting for the cool of the afternoon. Turning to the
north, the highest peaks are not seen from this strand ;
but Fairfield and Loughrigg close in the head of the
lake.

Turning southwards along the margin, and walking
about a mile, the explorer reaches the point of the
promontory, Ferry Nab, which stretches out opposite
the Ferry House, — itself on the point of an opposite
promontory. There can hardly be a more charming
resting-place than a seat under the last trees of this
projection. It is breezy here ; and the waters smack
the shore cheerily. The Troutbeck hills come into
view, and the head of the lake is grander. The round
house on Curwen's island is seen among the trees. The

w

P d

PROFESSOR WILSON. 13

Ferry house, under its canopy of tall sycamores, and with
its pebbly beach, is immediately opposite ; and behind
it rises the wooded bank which is, in light or shadow,
one of the chief graces of the scene. If the sun shines
upon it, it is feathered with foliage to the very ridge,
and the bay beneath it is blue and lustrous. If the
sun has gone down behind it, the bay is black ; and
every dipping bird sprinkles it with silver ; and the
wild duck that comes sailing out with her brood, draws
behind her a pencil of white light. From this point,
a view opens to the south. In the expanse of waters
lies another island ; and farther down, on the eastern
shore, a pier extends with a little tower at the end.
This is Storrs : and at that pier did the guests embark
when Scott went to meet Canning at Mr. Bolton's, and
the fine regatta took place, (under the direction of
Christopher North) which is celebrated in Lockhart's
Life of Scott. This was only two years before Canning's
death, and seven before that of Scott. Mr. and Mrs.
Bolton are gone ; and Christopher North himself has
followed. It is probable that no stranger ever sees that
pier at Storrs without thinking of Professor Wilson ;
and, indeed, there is no spot in the neighbourhood with
which his memory, and the gratitude of his readers, is
not associated. Any where, such a presence is rarely
seen ; and it was especially impressive in the places he
test loved to haunt. More than one person has said
that Wilson reminded them of the first man, Adam ;
so full was his large frame of vitality, force and sen-
tience. His tread seemed to shake the ground, and his
glance to pierce through stone walls ; and, as for his

14 A SHORT WALK.

voice, there was no heart that could stand before it.
In his hour of emotion, he swept away all hearts,
whithersoever he would. No less striking was it to see
him in a mood of repose, as he was seen when steering
the packet-boat that used to pass between Bowness and
Ambleside, before the steamers were put upon the lake.
Sitting motionless, with his hand upon the rudder, in
the presence of journeymen and market-women, and his
eye apparently looking beyond everything into nothing,
and his mouth closed above his beard, as if he meant
never to speak again, he was quite as impressive and
immortal an image as he could have been to the students
of his moral philosophy class, or the comrades of his
jovial hours. He was known, and with reverence and
affection, beside the trout-stream and the mountain tarn,
and, amidst the damp gloom of Elleray, where he could
not bring himself to let a tree or a sprig be lopped
that his wife had loved. Every old boatman and
young angler, every hoary shepherd and primitive dame
among the hills of the district, knew him and enjoyed
his presence. He made others happy by being so in-
tensely happy himself, when his brighter moods were
on him ; and when he was mournful, no one desired to
be gay. He is gone with his joy and his grief; and
the region is so much the darker in a thousand eyes.

Instead of returning to his inn the way he came, the
stranger may make a moderate and pleasant walk by
going through Bowness on the Ambleside road, and
round by Cook's House. The first noticeable abode
that he will see is Eayrigg, — a rather low, rambling,
grey house, standing on the grass near a little bay of

MILLER BROW. 15

the lake. It is a charming old-fashioned house, and its
position has every advantage, except that it stands too
low. On the high wall by the road side, immediately
before reaching the gate of Rayrigg, the stranger will
be struck with the variety of ferns. That wall is an
excellent introduction to the stone fences of the region,
richly adorned as many of them are with mosses and
ferns.

Passing between woods, resounding with brawling
streams, the road leads up a rather steep ascent, the
summit of which is called Miller Brow. Hence is seen
what, in our opinion, is a view unsurpassed for beauty
in the whole Lake District. The entire lake lies below,
the white houses of Clappersgate being distinctly visi-
ble at the north end and the Beacon at the south : and
the diversity of the framework of this sheet of water is
here most striking. The Calgarth woods, for which we
are indebted to Bishop Watson, rising and falling,
spreading and contracting below, with green undulating
meadows interposed, are a perfect treat to the eye ; and
so are the islands clustering in the centre of the lake.
Wray Castle stands forth well above the promontory
opposite ; and at the head, the Langdale Pikes, and
their surrounding mountains seem, in some states of
the atmosphere, to approach and overshadow the
waters ; and in others to retire, and shroud themselves
in soft haze and delicate hues peculiar to cloud land.
There is a new house, built just below the ridge at
Miller Brow by William Sheldon, which we have
thought, from the time the foundation was laid, the
most enviable abode in the country, — commanding a

16 A STEAMBOAT TEIP.

view worthy of a mountain top, while sheltered by hill
and wood, and with the main road so close at hand that
the conveniences of life are as procurable as in a street.
A short descent hence brings the walker to Cook's
House, — the point where four roads meet. Cook's
house has only just disappeared. With it has disap-
peared a fine specimen of the old fireplace of the district,
with its chimney-corners. It is rather a drawback to
the romance hanging about those wide old chimnies, to
know that the good man had to sit with some special
covering over his head and shoulders, to protect him
from the soot that the rain brought down. At Cook's
house there were recesses and cupboards in that strange
roofless alcove, — the door being of the old oak of which
such fine specimens may be seen in the farm-houses of
the dales. We should rather say, might till lately have
been seen ; for we fear there are but few left. The
greater number of old chests, cupboard doors, and high
backed chairs, covered with carvings, have found their
way to the London curiosity shops, whence agents have
been sent through the wildest places in the district to
buy up such relics at high prices. Still, there are
specimens left, as the observant traveller will notice.

Of the four roads which meet here, the one
to his left would take him to Ambleside ; the one
opposite, to Troutbeck. To reach his inn he must take
the one to the right, which leads him straight home.

The next thing to be done is to take a survey of the
whole lake by a steamboat trip. During the summer,
two steamers make six trips each ; so that the stranger
can choose his own hour, and go down or up first, as he

LAKE DRAINAGE. 17

pleases. In accordance with the rule of lake approach,
we should recommend his going down first. He em-
barks at the pier at Bowness, and is carried straight
across to the Ferry, where the boats touch. Then the
course is southwards, with the lake narrowing, and the
hills sinking till the scenery becomes merely pretty.
The water is very shallow towards the foot, and the
practicable channel is marked out by posts. The best
work that the whole neighbourhood could undertake
would be the deepening of the lake at this part, and of
the river which carries off the overflow. Not only is
the passage of the steamers difficult : there is a far worse
evil in the inundations which take place on all the low-
lying lands, even up to Rydal, from the insufficiency of
the outlet. The mischief has much increased since
drainage has been introduced. The excellent and
indispensable practice of land drainage must be followed
up by an improvement in arterial drainage, or floods
are inevitable. The water which formerly dribbled
away in the course of many days, or even weeks, now
gushes out from the drains all at once ; and if the main
outlets are not enlarged in proportion, the waters are
thrown back upon the land. This is the case now in
the neighbourhood of Windermere, — the meadows and
low-lying houses at Ambleside, a mile or two from the
lake, being flooded every winter by the overflow of the
lake first, then of the river, then of the tributary streams.
The Steam Yacht Companies gave fifty pounds to have
the lake deepened at Fell Foot, about five years ago ; and
Mr. White, the proprietor of the Newby Bridge Hotel,
subscribed the same amount : and this was good as far

18 LAKE SHORES.

as it went. But a much larger operation is required.
There is a weir below Newby Bridge, to serve a corn
mill. Now, the days of weirs and watermills are com-
ing to an end. In these days of steam engines it is
not to be endured that hundreds of acres should be
turned into swamps, and hundreds of lives lost by fever,
ague, and rheumatism, for the sake of a waterpower,
which pays perhaps thirty pounds or forty pounds
a-year. We say this of watermills generally; and in
regard to the need of sufficient arterial drainage, we
speak of the shores of Windermere in particular. The
expense of carrying off the utmost surplus of the waters
in the wettest season would be presently repaid, here as
anywhere else, by the improved value of the land and
house property, relieved from the nuisance of flood.

The Swan Inn at Newby Bridge is exceedingly
comfortable ; and the charges are very moderate. The
stranger will have to come again, on his way to Furness,
at all events, and perhaps in some trip to Hawkshead ;
or when making the circuit of the lake by land. Now,
he merely calls for lunch or tea, during the stopping of
the steamer; and then he is off again, up the lake.
After the Ferry and Bowness, the next call is at Low-
wood inn, where there are sure to be passengers landing
or embarking. Between Bowness and Lowwood inn,
Eayrigg has been seen, beside the little bay ; and then
Ecclerigg, with its overshadowing trees, and pretty
pier. It is inhabited by Richard Luther Watson, Esq.,
grandson of the late Bishop of Llandaff. Just above
Lowwood, high up on the wooded side of Wansfell,
will be seen Dove Nest, once the abode of Mrs.

w .
(A %
WW

M |

ft ^

s :-=

THE ROTHAY AND BRATHAY. 19

Hemans, when its appearance was more primitive and
less pretty than it is now, — improved as it has been
by its present resident, her then young friend, the Rev.
Robert Perceval Graves. Next comes Wansfell Holme,
inhabited by the Rev. James J. Hornby. This is
another choice situation. On the opposite shore is Wray
Castle, erected by James Dawson, Esq., — a most defensi-
ble-looking place for so peaceful a region; but an enviable
residence, both from its interior beauty and the views it
commands. Just above it, Pullwyke bay, where lily of
the valley is found, runs far into the land ; and overlook-
ing it is seen Pull Cottage, the residence of Major
Rogers. Next, the sweet, tranquil Brathay valley opens,
with Mr. Redmay ne's mansion of Brathay Hall, on a
green slope above the lake ; and just behind, on a wooded
knoll in the gorge of the valley, the beautiful little
church, called Brathay Chapel, built by Mr. Redmayne.
Two rivers fall into the lake, uniting just before they
reach it ; — the Rothay, which comes down from Dun-
mail Raise, beyond G-rasmere, and the Brathay, which
issues from Elterwater, a group of pools, rather than
a lake, lying at the foot of the hills near Langdale.
The valleys of the Rothay and the Brathay are
separated by Loughrigg, — the ridge of which, at its
further end, commands Grasmere ; its Windermere end
shelters Clappersgate and Water-head. The steamer
sweeps round to the pier at Waterhead, where there is
a cluster of dwellings, the most imposing of which is
the large grey stone house called Wanlas How, the
property of Alexander C. Brenchley, Esq. Omnibuses
are in waiting here, from Ambleside and Grasmere, —

20 BOATING.

the one, distant one mile ; and the other, between four
and five. Our tourist will, however, complete the
circuit of the lake, by returning to Bowness.

There are plenty of boats to be had at Waterhead
and Bowness, and watermen who are practised and
skilful. The stranger should be warned, however,
against two dangers which it is rash to encounter.
Nothing should induce him to sail on Windermere, or
on any lake surrounded by mountains. There is no
calculating on, or accounting for, the gusts that come
down between the hills ; and no skill and practice
obtained by boating on rivers or the waters of a flat
country are any sure protection here. And nothing
should induce him to go out in one of the little skiffs
which are too easily attainable and too tempting,
from the ease of rowing them. The surface may be-
come rough at any minute, and those skiffs are unsafe
in all states of the water but the calmest. The long
list of deaths occasioned in this way, — deaths both of
residents and strangers, — should have put an end to
the use of these light skiffs, long ago. The larger
boats are safe enough, and most skilfully managed by
their rowers : and the stranger can enjoy no better treat
than gliding along, for hours of the summer day, peep-
ing into the coves and bays, coasting the islands, and
lying cool in the shadows of the woods. The clearness
of the water is a common surprise to the resident in a
level country ; and it is pleasant sport to watch the
movements of the fish, darting, basking, or leaping in
the sunshine, or quivering their fins in the reflected ray.
What the quality of the trout and char is, the tourist
will probably find every day, at breakfast and dinner.

FIRST TOUR.

EBOM BOWNESS, BY NEWBY BEIDGE AND TTLVEESTONE TO FTTB-
NESS ABBEY, EETUENING BY CONISTON, HAWKSHEAD, AND
THE EEEEY.

MILES.

MILES,

Bowkess to Newby Bridge ...

8

8 Ulverstone

16

7 Furness

23

8 Foot of Coniston Water ...

31

7 New Inn

38

4 Hawkshead

42

3 The Ferry ...

45

For the greater convenience of taking his pleasure on
the water, the traveller will now shift his quarters to
Bowness, where he will find himself, as we have said,
comfortably accommodated at either Ullock's Royal
Hotel or the Crown. Now is his time for visiting
Furness Abbey. This should be the first of his tours,
because it will lead him into the least mountainous parts
of the district.

He will go down to Newby Bridge either by steamer,
or by the road, which passes the grounds of Storrs, and
cuts over hill and dale, and winds among the copses,
till it crosses the bridge opposite the inn. Those
copses have been valuable to the remotest known date,
for charcoal, and they have become more so since the
increase of manufactures has stimulated the demand for
bobbins. There are bobbin-mills at Skelwith, at Amble-

b2

22 WOODLAND LIFE.

side, at Troutbeck Bridge, and at Staveley. But the
charcoal-burning goes on still, we believe, with some
activity in these southern parts of the district. The
one the traveller has just passed was the scene of the
life of two brothers whose name and fame will not be
let die. Their name was Dodgson ; and they lived in
Cartmel Fell above a century ago. They were so intent
on their wood-cutting that they spent Sunday in cook-
ing their food for the whole week. They ate little but
oatmeal porridge ; and, when that fell short, they tried
Friar Tuck's ostensible diet of dried peas and hard
beans. As they grew old, they began to feel the need
of domestic help. Said the one to the other, " Thou
mun out and tait a wife." — "Yes!" was the reply;
"if thear be a hard job, thou olus sets yan tult."
The thing was accomplished, however ; and when the
old fellows were still chopping away at upwards of
eighty, rain or shine, ill or well, there was the wife in
the dwelling, and children to help. The brothers left
considerable property ; but it went the way of miser's
money ; and there are no Dodgson' s now in Cartmel
Fell.

All the way to Furness, there are specimens of roads
and lanes which are locally called Ore gates (ways,)
from their being constructed from the slag and refuse
of the iron-ore formerly brought into the peninsula to
be smelted, on account of the abundance of charcoal
there. There are few objects more picturesque, to this
day, than the huts of the woodcutters, who remain on a
particular spot till their work is done. Upon piled
stems of trees heather is heaped, to make a shaggy

TTLVEKSTOIS'E. 23

thatch ; and when the smoke is oozing out, thin and
blue, from the hole in the centre, or the children are
about the fire in front, where the great pot is boiling,
the sketcher cannot but stop and dash down the scene
in his book. The children will say he is "spying
fancies," — as they say of every one who sketches,
botanizes, or in any way explores ; and perhaps some-
body may have the good taste to advise him to come
at night, when the glow from the fires makes the thicket
a scene of singular wildness and charm. A sad story
about a charcoal-burner belongs to this neighbourhood.
On two farms lived families which were about to be
connected by marriage. The young lover was a
"coaler," — a charcoal-burner; and one stormy day,
when he was watching his fire, and sitting on a stone
near his hut to take his dinner, he was struck dead by
lightning. The poor crazed survivor, his Kitty Dawson,
went to that hut after the funeral, and would never
leave it again. She did nothing but sit on that stone,
or call his name through the wood. She was well cared
for. There was always food in the hut, and some kind
eye daily on the watch, — though with care not to
intrude. One day in winter, some sportsmen who were
passing took the opportunity of leaving some provision
in the hut. They became silent, and silenced their
dogs. But she could never more be disturbed. They
found her dead.

It is eight miles hence to the cheerful little
town of Ulverstone, which is now reached by the
railway from Whitehaven; and from Ulverstone, the
railway stretches south, past Furness Abbey, to the

b 3

24 TUEKESS ABBEY.

margin of the sea. From Ulverstone to Furness, it
is only seven miles. There is a good inn, — (though
not cheap, as cheapness is not to be expected in the
precincts of secluded ruins :) and here the tourist
should bespeak his bed, if he means to study the
Abbey.

The Abbey was founded in A. D. 1127. Its domains
extended over the whole promontory in which it lies,
and to the north, as far as the Shire Stones on Wry-
nose. They occupied the space between "Windermere
on the east and the Duddon on the west. The Abbot
was a sort of king ; and his abbey was enriched, not
only by King Stephen, bat by the gifts of neighbour-
ing proprietors, who were glad to avail themselves, not
only of its religious privileges, but of its military
powers for the defence of their estates against border
foes, and the outlaws of the mountains, — the descend-
ants of the conquered Saxons, who inherited their
fathers5 vengeance. The Abbey was first peopled from
Normandy, — a sufficient number of Benedictine monks
coming over from the monastery of Savigny to establish
this house in honour of St. Marye of Furnesse. In a
few years their profession changed : they followed St.
Bernard, and wore the white cassock, caul and scapu-
lary, instead of the dress of the grey monks. It is
strange now to see the railway traversing those woods
where these grey-robed foreigners used to pass hither
and thither, on their holy errands to the depressed and
angry native Saxons dwelling round about. The situa-
tion of the Abbey, as is usual with religious houses, is
fine. It stands in the depth of a glen, with a stream

EUENESS ABBEY. 25

flowing by, — the sides of the glen being clothed with
wood. A beacon once belonged to it ; a watch tower
on an eminence accessible from the abbey, whose signal-
fire was visible all over Low Furness, when assistance
was required, or foes were expected. The building is
of the pale red stone of the district. It must formerly
have almost filled the glen : and the ruins give an
impression, to this day, of the establishment having
been worthy of the zeal of its founder, King Stephen,
and the extent of its endowments, which were princely.
The boundary-wall of the precincts inclosed a space of
sixty-five acres, over which are scattered remains that
have, within our own time, been interpreted to be those
of the mill, the granary, the fish-ponds, the ovens and
kilns, and other offices. As for the architecture, the
heavy shaft is found alternating with the clustered
pillar, and the round Norman with the pointed Gothic
arch. The masonry is so good that the remains are,
even now, firm and massive ; and the winding stair-
cases within the walls are still in good condition in
many places. The nobleness of the edifice consisted in
its extent and proportions ; for the stone would not
bear the execution of any very elaborate ornament.
The crowned heads of Stephen and his Queen Maude
are seen outside the window of the Abbey, and are
among the most interesting of the remains. It is all
triste and silent now. The chapter-house, where so
many grave councils were held, is open to the babbling
winds. Where the abbot and his train swept past in
religious procession, over inscribed pavements, echoing
to the tread, the stranger now wades among tall ferns

26 CONISTON.

and knotted grasses, stumbling over stones fallen from
the place of honour. No swelling anthems are heard
there now, or penitential psalms ; but only the voice of
birds, winds, and waters. But this blank is what the
stranger comes for. Knowing what a territory the
Abbots of Furness ruled over, like a kingdom, it is
well to come hither to look how it is with that old
palace and mitre, and to take one more warning of how
Time shatters thrones, and dominations and powers,
and causes the glories of the world to pass away.

The stranger will be among the ruins late, by moon
or by star light ; and again in the morning, before the
dew is off, and when the hidden violet perfumes the
area where the censer once was swung, and where the
pillars cast long shadows on the sward. But he must
not linger ; for he has a good circuit to make before
night.

The lake of Coniston, which is his next object, is in
the district between Windermere and the Duddon,
which has already been mentioned as formerly belonging
to Furness Abbey. From Ulverstone, his road com-
mands the estuary of the Leven for a few miles, and
then approaches the foot of Coniston Water, which it
reaches at eight miles from Ulverstone. Seven miles
more bring him to the New Inn at Coniston, which,
built under the direction of Mr. and Mrs. J. Gr. Marshall,
is one of the most comfortable hotels in England. This
lake, like Windermere, is flanked by low hills at the
south end, and inclosed by magnificent mountains at
the head, where Mr. J. G-. Marshall's house and lands
are more gloriously situated than almost any other in

C01STST01S" BANK. 27

the region. The little town of Church Coniston, and
the New Inn, are a mile short of Waterhead ; and the
stranger must stop, and look through the place, while
his early dinner is preparing. The Old Man, eleventh
in height of the mountains of the district, (2,576 feet)
towers above him ; and the abodes of the people will
shew him that he is in the neighbourhood of a copper
mine. There is one, some way up the mountain ; and
he may see the winding road up to it. Higher up,
where there is an evident hollow, he is told that he
would find a deep black tarn ; and higher up, another.
But to climb the mountain is a day's work, with much
doubt of success, (that is, of a clear summit,) and he
must to-day be satisfied with what is below. Yewdale,
with its grey rocks, cushioned with heather up to their
summits, stretches away northwards from the head of
the lake, into a gorge where the mountains overlap.
One of the crags there is called Eaven Crag : and it is
said that a pair of ravens is living now, there or some-
where near. It is to be hoped that, now the eagles are
gone, the last ravens will not be destroyed or scared
away by the shot of the miners, or other rash sports-
men, who are too apt to bring down every bird they
see. There are many picturesque dwellings in the area
which is between the heights and the lake: but the
best view of these is from the point to which the
stranger will proceed, after his lunch or early dinner.
He must order his car to meet him in an hour at the
junction of the two lake roads, on the Hawkshead
road ; and then he must walk a mile to the Waterhead,
and then on, round the head of the lake, in the direction

28 te:ntt lodge.

of Tent Lodge, which is seen nestling in its garden at
some elevation above the lake. The road passes the
site of the former Waterhead inn, now a young planta-
tion of Mr. Marshall's. Then, commanding the whole
expanse of the lake, it begins to ascend, as it curves
round to the east ; and, at about a mile and three-
quarters from the new inn, there stands the' house in
which Elizabeth Smith lived and died; and, on the
opposite side of the road, Tent Lodge, built on the spot
where a tent was pitched, that she might draw her
dying breath with greater ease, and enjoy, as long as
possible, the incomparable landscape there stretched
before her. The boat-house is at the bottom of the
slope, down which she used to take her mother's guests;
and she and her sister were so well practiced at the oar
that they could show the beauties of the scene from
any point of the lake. The first station is, however,
from a field, — the first beyond the new house on
Coniston Bank. Some people think this the finest view
in the whole district : and truly, the frequent visitor
pronounces it incomparable, every time he comes ; and
the passing tourist feels that, once seen, it can never be
forgotten. Nowhere else, perhaps, is the grouping of
the mountain peaks, and the indication of their recesses
so striking ; and as to the foreground, with its glittering
waterfall, its green undulations, its diversified woods,
its bright dwellings, and its clear lake, — it conveys the
strongest impression of joyful charm, — of fertility,
prosperity and comfort, nestling in the bosom of the
rarest beauty.

Retracing his steps for some way, and passing the

.,,,,.

4

o

o 3
o

HAWKSHEAJ). 29

turn which would lead him down again to Tent Lodge,
the stranger has rather a steep ascent before him, from
point to point of which he finds, on looking behind
him, new views of the lake appearing, while the magni-
tude of the Old Man becomes more apparent as he
recedes from it. By the roadpost, which indicates the
two ways to the two sides of the lake, he finds his car ;
and then he proceeds through a wild country — moor-
land, sprinkled with grey rock, — in the direction of
Hawkshead, which is three miles from Waterhead.

The parish church of Hawkshead is ancient; its
appearance is venerable ; and it stands, as a church
should do, in full view of the country round, — of the
valley in which Esthwaite Water lies. Elizabeth Smith
lies buried there ; and there is a tablet to her memory
in the churchyard. At the ancient Grammar School of
Hawkshead, Wordsworth and his brother were educated.
Passing through the neat little town, the road turns to
the left, to reach the northern end of Esthwaite Water,
which is two miles long, and half a mile broad ; — a
quiet sheet of water, with two promontories stretching
into it, which appear like islands, nearly dividing it into
a chain of ponds. A round pond at the northern end
of the lake, connected with it by a narrow creek, exhibits
a strange phencemenon. It has a floating island, — not
like that of Derwentwater, which is a mass of mud and
vegetable tangle, — but actually bearing trees : and this
island is carried by strong winds from the one side to
the other. The name of the pond is Priest's Pot : a
fact which some explain by a tradition that a priest
was drowned there ; and others by a supposition of its

30 THE EERRY.

holding about as much as a thirsty priest would like to
drink, if the liquor were sufficiently good. Lakebank
is a pretty place; and further on, Lakefield, (J. E.
Ogden's, Esq.,) at Near Sawrey, commands perhaps the
best view in the valley. Just beyond, the road turns
to the left, through an undulating country of consi-
derable beauty. We find a trace of the rebellion of
1745 in the name of a lane, called " Scotch Grate" (way.)
It was here that the fearful Highlanders were looked
for, on their march to Derby ; and here they might
have had all their own way if they had come : for
Sawrey had no idea of showing fight. All the inhabi-
tants, carrying all their valuables, hied away, and took
refuge together in a solitary building which was called
Cook's braw bog-house. And braw it must have
been, to hold all the Sawrey ans. The view of
Windermere from the highest point is very fine.
The road leads through Farther Sawrey to the Ferry
House. If there is daylight left, (and there may be,
as the Ferry is only seven miles from Coniston Water-
head) the traveller may as well go to the Station House,
which he must have seen from the opposite side of the
lake, peeping out of the ever-green woods. There he
obtains fine views, up and down the lake, and may
mark, on the way up, the largest laurels he has ever
seen. His driver, or some resident, will probably take
care that he does not stay till it is more than reasonably
dusk. As reasons in plenty are always found for not
marrying on a Friday, so it is said to be impossible,
somehow or other, to get over to the Ferry Nab in the
ferry-boat, except by daylight. And if you should

THE CEIER OF CLAIFE. 31

arrive at the Nab too late, you may call all night for
the boat, and it will not come. The traveller may
judge for himself how much of the local tale may be true.
He may probably have heard of the Crier of Claife,
whose fame has spread far beyond the district : but if
not, he should hear of the Crier now, while within sight
of Ferry Nab. If he asks who or what the Crier was,
— that is precisely what nobody can tell, though every
body would be glad to know : but we know all how
and about it, except just what it really was. It gave
its name to the place now called the Crier of Claife, —
the old quarry in the wood, which no man will go near
at midnight : —

It was about the time of the Eeformation, one
stormy night, when a party of travellers were making
merry at the Ferry-house, — then a humble tavern, —
that a call for the boat was heard from the Nab. A
quiet, sober boatman obeyed the call, though the night
was wild and fearful. When he ought to be returning,
the tavern guests stepped out upon the shore, to see
whom he would bring. He returned alone, ghastly and
dumb with horror. Next morning, he was in a high
fever ; and in a few days he died, without having been
prevailed upon to say what he had seen at the Nab.
For weeks after, there were shouts, yells, and howlings
at the Nab, on every stormy night : and no boatman
would attend to any call after dark. The Eeformation
had not penetrated the region ; and the monk from
Furness who dwelt on one of the islands of the lake,
was applied to to exorcise the Nab. On Christmas day,
he assembled all the inhabitants on Chapel Island, and

32 CIIAR.

performed in their presence services which should for
ever confine the ghost to the quarry in the wood behind
the Ferry, now called the Crier of Claife. Some say
that the priest conducted the people to the quarry and
laid the ghost, — then and there. — Laid though it
be, nobody goes there at night. It is still told how the
foxhounds in eager chase would come to a full stop at
that place ; and how, within the existing generation, a
schoolmaster from Colthouse, who left home to pass the
Crier, was never seen more. Whatever may be said
about the repute of ghosts in our day, it is certain that
this particular story is not dead.

Meantime, the heavy, roomy ferry-boat is ready : the
horse is taken out of the car ; and both are shipped.
Two or three, or half-a-dozen people take advantage of
the passage : the rowers, with their ponderous oars, are
on the bench ; and the great machine is presently afloat.
The Ferry House looks more tempting than ever when
seen from under its own sycamores, — jutting out as it
does between quiet bays on either hand. The landing
takes place on the opposite promontory : the horse is
put to, and the traveller is presently at his inn. He
is ready for his meal (be it tea or supper) of lake trout
or char. The best char are in Coniston Water : but
they are good every where ; especially to hungry travel-
lers, sitting at table within sight of the waters whence
they have just been fished. The potted char of Coniston
is sent, as every epicure knows, to all parts of the world
where men know what is good. As for the trout, there
can be none finer than that of Windermere.

SECOND TOUR.

BY TROUTBECK TO KIBKSTONE PASS AND PATTERDALE, AND
DESCENT UPON AMBLESIDE.

MILES. 11ILES.

Bowjs-ess to Kirkstone ... ... ... 7

6 Patterdale ... ... ... ... 13

4 Lvuiph's Tower ... ... ... ... 17

4 Back to Patterdale 21

10 Ambleside ... ... ... ... ... 31

As the traveller will have other opportunities of
observing the six miles of rnailroad between Bowness
and Ambleside, he may as well go round, and see
Ullswater, on the day of his removal. Sending his
luggage on by the omnibus to one of the three chief
Ambleside inns, he will take a car for the day, and go
by Troutbeck to Patterdale.

The country people will tell him, as he turns up to
Troutbeck at Cook's House, that he is going to see
"the handsomest view in these parts, — especially at
the back-end of the year." And wonderfully fine the
views are, as the road ascends, commanding the entire
lake, and the whole range of mountains from Coniston
Old Man to Fairfield. The singular valley of Trout-
beck was once a wooded basin, where the terrified
Britons took refuge from the Eomans, while the latter
were making their great road from Kendal to Penrith.
That road actually ran along the very ridge of the

34 TROUTBECK.

Troutbeck hills, as any one may see who will climb the
mountain called, for this reason, High Street. What
a sight it must have been — the pioneers felling the
trees, and paving the way, and the soldiers following,
with their armour and weapons gleaming in the sun,
while the trembling natives cowered in the forest below,

— listening now to the blows of the workmen, and now
to the warlike music of the troops, marching up from
Kendal! After Eomans and Saxons were gone, the
valley was a great park, and the inhabitants were
virtually serfs, in danger of the gallows, (which had a
hill to itself, named after it to this day) at the will
and pleasure of the one great man. In course of time,

— that is, a good many centuries ago, — the valley was
disparked, and divided among the inhabitants, — only
one very large estate being left, — the new park, con-
taining 2,000 acres. This was the estate given by
Charles I, to Huddlestone Phillipson, for his services in
the civil wars. The valley now contains a string of
hamlets, — Town End, Town Head, High Green, Crag,
and High Fold ; and its farmsteads and outbuildings
show some of the most curious specimens of ancient
edifices that are to be seen in the district. Josiah
Brown, whom we mentioned in connexion with Orrest
Head, found nearly his match in oddity in this vale.
A "rum fellow" in Troutbeck had a prodigious bull ;
and so had Josiah : and what must they do but meet
half-way, and have a bull-fight ; the terms being that the
winner should have the fallen animal. Josiah actually
came riding his bull. The battle was tremendous ; and
the Troutbeck animal went down before Josiah' s, and

TROUTBECK CHAPEL. 35

was given by him to the poor of Troutbeck. These
anecdotes appear very strange to people who have lived
in towns, or among the more level manners of the south :
and this is why we relate them. Thej are among the
curiosities of the district. Troutbeck is the most
primitive of the frequented valleys of the district. To
find any other so antique and characteristic, it is neces-
sary to leave the high road, and explore the secluded
dales of which the summer tourist sees and hears
nothing. The dale looks from the uplands as if it had
been scooped out between the ridges with a gigantic
scoop. Its levels are parcelled out into small fields, of
all manner of shapes ; and the stream, — the beck
abounding in trout, — winds along the bottom, from the
foot of High Street, to fall into the lake just by Calgarth.
The road now followed by the tourist descends into
the vale sharply, by the abode of John Wilson, Esq., at
The How, and crosses the bridge, in full view of the
chapel, which was consecrated in 1562, and thoroughly
repaired in 1828. It is one of the small churches that,
with their square tower and bell, look and sound so well
in the dales. This one seats 160 worshipers. Imme-
diately beyond the bridge, the road mounts again very
steeply, till it joins that which runs along the hill sides,
on the western side of the valley. This road is to be
followed up the valley ; and the tourist must lose none
of its beauties. Behind him, there are views of the
receding lake, now diminished to the likeness of a cabinet
picture : — below, is the deep vale with its green levels :
opposite, the grassy slopes ascend to the ridges of High
Street and Hill Bell; and before him, Troutbeck Tongue

36 HIGHEST HOUSE.

protrudes, splitting the valley into two, and being itself
most lovely with its farmstead, and dropped thorns, and
coppice and grey rocks : while, behind and above it, the
vale head rises into grandeur, with its torrents leaping
down, and its pathway winding up, indicating the pass
into Mardale. The stranger is not going that way,
however. He turns over a gentler pass to the left,
which leads him, on the slope of Wansfell, away from
Troutbeck. As he bids farewell to the Tongue, he sees
the summit of Kirkstone before him. He is passing
over the somewhat boggy upland where the Stock takes
its rise, to flow down to and through Ambleside, after
having taken the leap called Stockghyll Force. The
tourist may see that in the evening, if there is time : —
he is going the other way now.

His road meets the one from Ambleside at a small
public-house, which the Ordnance Surveyors have
declared the highest inhabited house in England :
and thus it is labelled by a board over the porch. In
clear weather, the sea is seen hence, and the thread of
smoke from its steamers. The head of Windermere
lies like a pond below : the little Blelham tarn, near
Wray Castle, glitters behind ; and range beyond range
of hills recedes to the horizon. Near at hand, all is
very wild. The Ambleside road winds up steeply
between grey rocks and moorland pasture, and dashing
streams ; and the Kirkstone mountain has probably
mists driving about its head. There is something
wilder to come, however, — the noted Kirkstone Pass,
— the great pass of the district. The descent begins
about a quarter of a mile beyond the house. Down

PATTERDALE. 37

plunges the road, with rock and torrent on either hand,
and the bold sweeps of Coldfield and Scandale Screes
shutting in the pass ; and the little lake of Brothers'
Water lying below, afar off among the green levels ;
and, closing in the whole in front, the mass of Place
Fell, — the other side of which goes sheer down into
Ullswater. The stranger must not omit to observe near
the head of the pass, the fallen rock, ridged like a roof,
whose form (like that of a miniature church) has given
its name to its precincts. All the way as he descends
to Brothers' Water, the openings on the Scandale side
(the left) charm his eye, — with their fissures, preci-
pices, green slopes and levels, and knolls in the midst,
crowned with firs. He passes through Hartsop, and
then winds on, for three or four miles, among the rich
levels of Patterdale, which is guarded by mountains
jutting forwards, like promontories. The Patterdale
Inn, kept by Mr. Grelderd, is another of the first-rate
hotels of the district. The stranger, who must have
left Windermere early in the morning, hastens to order
a car or a boat, to take him to Growbarrow Park, and
desires that dinner may await him in about three hours'
time.

If the weather is calm and fine, he has a boat, to
which he must walk across the mead<Mp. As soon as
he is afloat, the beauties of UllswateSfcpen upon him,
— the great Place Fell occupying the whole space
to the right ; and Stybarrow Crag, precipitous and
wooded, shoots up on the left-hand bank. The road
winds below it, under trees, passing good houses, and
the paths to Helvellyn, and to the lead works, and to

c2

38 ltulph's tower.

Glencoin, -^ all recesses full of beauty. Tales are told
of artists who, turning into Glencoin, to find materials
for a sketch, have not come out again for three months,
finding themselves overwhelmed with tempting subjects
for the pencil. The singularly primitive character of
the popular mind in those secluded corners is almost
as great an incitement to study as the variety and
richness of the foregrounds and the colouring.

Ullswater has two bends, and is shaped like a relaxed
Z. At the first bend, the boat draws to shore, below
Lyulph's Tower, an ivy-covered little castle, built for a
shooting-box by the late Duke of Norfolk ; but it stands
on the site of a real old tower, named, it is said, after
the Ulf, or L'Ulf, the first Baron of Grey stoke, who
gave its name to the lake. Some, however, insist that
the real name is Wolf's Tower. The park which sur-
rounds it, and stretches down to the lake, is studded
with ancient trees ; and the sides of its watercourses,
and the depths of its ravines, are luxuriantly wooded.
Vast hills, with climbing tracks, rise behind, on which
the herds of deer are occasionally seen, like brown
shadows from the clouds. They are safe there from
being startled (as they are in the glades of the park)
by strangers who come to find out Ara Force by
following the sound of the fall. Our tourist must take
a guide to this waterfall from the tower.

He will be led over the open grass to the ravine, and
then along its wooded sides on a pathway above the
brawling stream, till he comes to a bridge, which will
bring him in full view of the fall. As he sits in the
cool damp nook at the bottom of the chasm, where the

fr^O

AEA FORCE. 39

echo of dashing and gurgling water never dies, and
the ferns, long grasses and ash sprays wave and quiver
everlastingly in the pulsing air ; and as, looking up, he
sees the slender line of bridge spanning the upper fall,
he ought to know of the mournful legend which belongs
to this place, and which Wordsworth has preserved : —
In the olden times, a knight who loved a lady, and
courted her in her father's tower here, at Greystoke,
went forth to win glory. He won great glory : and at
first his lady rejoiced fully in it : but he was so long in
returning, and she heard so much of his deeds in behalf
of distressed ladies, that doubts at length stole upon
her heart as to whether he st'ill loved her. These
doubts disturbed her mind in sleep : and she began to
walk in her dreams, directing her steps towards the
waterfall where she and her lover used to meet. Under
a holly tree beside the fall they had plighted their
vows, and this was the limit of her dreaming walks.
The knight at length returned to claim her. Arriving
in the night, he went to the ravine to rest under the
holly until the morning should permit him to knock at
the gate of the tower : but he saw a gliding white
figure among the trees : and this figure reached the
holly before him, and plucked twigs from the tree, and
threw them into the stream. Was it the ghost of his
lady love ? or was it herself ? She stood in a dangerous
place : he put out his hand to uphold her : the touch
awakened her. In her terror and confusion she fell
from his grasp into the torrent, and was carried down
the ravine. He followed and rescued her ; but she died
upon the bank; not, however, without having fully

c 3 .

40 KIEKSTOKE PASS.

understood that her lover was true, and had come to
claim her. The knight devoted the rest of his days to
mourn her : he built himself a cell upon the spot, and
became a hermit for her sake.

The visitor should ascend the steps and pathway
from the bottom of the fall, and stand on the bridge
that spans the leap. It is a grand thing to look down.

He returns the way he came, by boat, to the inn, and,
after dinner up Kirkstone Pass. He will hear and see
enough to make him wish to come again, and stay
awhile on Ullswater. He would like to walk along
Place Fell, above the margin of the lake, where no car-
riage road is or can be made ; and, once there, he would
certainly climb the mountain. He would like to enter
the bridle road, from the foot of the lake, which leads
to Grisedale tarn, and comes out above Grasmere. He
would like to visit Angle Tarn, on the southern end of
Place Fell ; and, yet more, Hays Water, the large lonely
tarn above Hartsop ; where the angler delights to
seclude himself, because the trout delights in it too. It
is a high treat to follow up the beck from the road,
winding among the farms, and then entering the soli-
tude of the pass, till the source of the stream is found
in this tarn, a mile and a-half from the main road. The
little lake is overhung by High Street, so that the
Eoman eagles, as well as the native birds of the rocks,
may have cast their shadows upon its surface. Its
rushy and rocky margin is as wild a place as the most
adventurous angler can ever have found himself in. Our
traveller must, however, come again to see it ; for there
is no time to diverge to it to-day.

AMBLESIDE. 41

At the house, at the top of the pass, (which he has
walked up, in mercy to his horses) he leaves the Trout-
beck road to the left, and descends rapidly upon
Ambleside, which is between three and four miles from
the house. On the left, is the valley or ravine of the
Stock, whose waters are concealed by wood. The road
runs along the slopes of the Scandale Fells. Below,
Windermere opens more and more ; and at length, the
pretty little town of Ambleside appears, nestling at the
foot of Wansfell, and the valley of the Eothay opens at
the gazer's feet. On the opposite margin of this green
recess, and on the skirts of Loughrigg, he sees Fox
How, the residence and favourite retirement of the late
Dr. Arnold, and now inhabited by his family. Near
the pass which opens between Loughrigg and Fairfield,
he is told that the residence of Wordsworth may be
seen from below. Just under him to the left is the old
church ; and near the centre of the valley is the new
church, — more of a blemish than an adornment, un-
happily, from its size and clumsiness, and the bad taste
of its architecture. Though placed in a valley, it has
a spire, — the appropriate form of churches in a level
country ; and the spire is of a different color from the
rest of the building ; and the east window is remarkably
ugly. There have been various reductions of the
beauty of the valley within twenty years or so ; and
this latest is the worst, because the most conspicuous.
The old church, though not beautiful, is suitable to the
position, and venerable by its ancient aspect. It is
abundantly large enough for the place, except for a few
weeks in summer : but its burial ground, inclosed by

42 AMBLESIDE.

roads on three sides, has for many years been over-
crowded. Ten years ago, the state of the churchyard,
and the health of the people who lived near it, was such
as to make the opening of a new burial-ground a press-
ing matter ; and hence, no doubt, arose the new church,
though a larger and more beautiful cemetery might
easily have been formed in the neighbourhood.

The descent to all the Ambleside inns is steep, —
past the old church, and through a narrow street, and
into the space dignified with the name of the market-
place, and actually exhibiting an ancient market-cross.
Half-a-dozen of the few shops of the town are in or
about the market-place, and the Salutation and Com-
mercial Inns and the White Lion, — the three princi-
pal inns, are all conspicuous in it. If his time in
Ambleside is precious, the stranger may use the sunset
or twilight hour for seeing Stoekghyll Force, while his
supper is preparing. He is directed or guided through
the stable-yard of the Salutation Inn, when he passes
under a tall grove of old trees on the right hand, the
stream being on the left. On the opposite bank is the
bobbin-mill, the one industrial establishment of Amble-
side, placed there on account of the abundant supply of
coppice wood obtainable in the neighbourhood. The
stacks of wood are seen, high up on the bank ; and the
ivy-clad dwelling of the proprietor ; and then the great
water-wheel, with its attendant spouts and weir, and
sound of gushing and falling waters. Where the path
forks towards and away from the stream, the visitor
must take the left-hand one. The other is the way up
WansfelL His path leads him under trees, and up and

STOCKGHYLL FORCE. 43

through a charming wood, with the water dashing
and brawling further and further below, till his ear
catches the sound of the fall : and presently after, the
track turns to the left, and brings him to a rocky station
whence he has a full view of the force. It is the fashion
to speak lightly of this waterfall, — it being within
half-a-mile of the inn, and so easily reached ; but it is,
in our opinion, a very remarkable fall, (from the symme-
try of its parts,) and one of the most graceful that can
be seen. Its leap, of about seventy feet, is split by a
rocky protrusion, and intercepted by a ledge running
across; so that there are four falls, — two smaller ones
above, answering precisely to each other, and two larger
leaps below, no less exactly resembling. The rock
which parts them is feathered with foliage ; and so are
the sides of the ravine. Below, the waters unite in a
rocky basin, whence they flow down to the mill, and on
in a most picturesque torrent, through a part of Amble-
side, and into the meadows, where they make their last
spring down a rock near Millar Bridge, and join the
Rothay about a mile from the lake.

Supposing the excursion to Patterdale to be left for
another day, the stranger will see, after turning into the •
Ambleside road from Bowness, first, Ibbotsholme, on
the right, the residence of Samuel Taylor, Esq., just
beyond Troutbeck Bridge. Presently, he will pass on
the left hand, the gate of Calgarth, Bishop Watson's
house, now inhabited by Edward Swinburne, Esq.
Ecclerigg, the residence of Ed. Luther Watson, Esq.,
comes next : and then Lowwood Inn, Dove's Nest, and
Wansfell Holme, and, on the opposite shore, Wray

44 DOTS AND BATHS.

Castle, all of which have been mentioned as seen from
the lake. Clappersgate, with its white houses, nestles
under Loughrigg, at the head of the lake ; and the
Brathay valley, with its pretty little church on its knoll,
opens beautifully as seen from the toll-bar. From
Water-head to Ambleside, . there are residences, humble
or handsome, on either hand. The traveller can hardly
be wrong in his choice of an inn, as all three are comfort-
able and well served. At present there are no baths in
the place ; — a singular deficiency where there is so
much of company on the one hand and of water on
the other. The inconvenience is, however, in the way
of being remedied ; and it is to be hoped that another
season will not arrive without a provision of this needful
refreshment for the dusty and tired traveller, — to say
nothing of the residents, who must desire it for pur-
poses of health as well as enjoyment.

THIRD TOUR.

BY THE VALLEY OF THE BRATHAY, TO HIGH CLOSE, AND DOWN
RED BANK TO GRASMERE AND EASTHWAITE, AND THENCE BY
EYDAL TO AMBLESIDE.

ILE

s.

MILES.

Ambleside to Skelwith Bridge

... 4

2

High Close ...

6

li

Grasmere...

... 7\

H

Easedale Tarn

10

H

Back to Grasmere...

... 12*

4

Ambleside

16*

The stranger had better take an entire day for this
tour also, if he can spare the time, and means to see
Easedale at his ease. The distance in miles is not a
day's journey ; but there are things to see which deserve
a pause.

The road to the right, after leaving the little market
place, is the one to be taken. Between Eothay Cottage
and Eothay Bank, the residence of John Crosfield, Esq.,
the road turns upon Kothay Bridge, whence there is a
fine view of the valley, with the cul-de-sac of Fairfield
closing it in to the north. Whether the vapours are
gathering and tumbling in that basin, — the recess of
Fairfield, — or whether every projection, streak, slide,
and mossy tract is clearly visible, that northern barrier
is very imposing ; and perhaps most so to those who are
most familiar with it, and can read its manifold weather
signs and tokens. Between Eothay Bridge and Clap-

46 BRATHAY CHURCHYARD.

persgate is Croft Lodge, the residence of James Holme,
Esq. ; — the mansion and its woods being on the right
of the road, and the gardens stretching down to the
river on the left. Then comes the pretty hamlet of
Clappersgate, so conspicuous from the lake; and two
roads branch off, leading along each bank of the river
Brathay, and meeting at Skelwith Bridge at the other
end of the valley. If the stranger has any thought of
ascending Loughrigg, some other day, he may now see,
above Clappersgate, the path by which he may ascend
or descend ; a zig-zag path up the hill side, leading to
the two peaks, crowning the south end of Loughrigg,
from between which the most perfect possible view of
Windermere is obtained. That cannot, however, be
done to-day. The left-hand road should now be taken,
crossing Brathay Bridge, and passing the parson-
age. When the stranger sees the churchyard gate, he
must alight, and walk up to the church. From the
rock there he commands the mountain range from Con-
iston Old Man to the Langdale Pikes : the Brathay
flows beneath, through its quiet meadows ; and its
dashing among the rocks, just under his feet, catches
his ear ; — Loughrigg, with its copses and crags and
purple heather, rises immediately before him : and to
the right he sees a part of Ambleside nestling between
the hills, and a stretch of the lake. This churchyard
has the first daffodils and snowdrops on the southern
side of its rock ; and, in its copse, the earliest wood
anemones. Throughout the valley, spring flowers, and
the yellow and white broom abound.

The road ascends and descends abruptly, and winds

LOUGHRIGG TARiN". ' 47

towards, and away from, the right bank of the Brathay,
till it reaches Skelwith Fold. There the stranger must
alight again, and go through a field gate to the right,
to a rocky point, where he commands the finest view
of the valley and its environs. And again, just before
he comes to Skelwith Bridge, he must go through the
gap in the wall to the left, and follow the field-track
until he comes in sight of Skelwith Force. He will
hardly aver that he ever saw a more perfect picture than
this, — with the fall in the centre, closed in by rock
and wood on either hand, and by the Langdale Pikes
behind. Keturning to his car, he will next pass over
the bridge, and the roaring torrent beneath, and by
stacks of wood, — (more coppice wood for another
bobbin-mill,) and, turning to the right, will find that
he has headed the valley. As he is not going home,
however, but to Grasmere, he turns out of the Brathay
valley by a steep road on the left, which ascends again
and again, leading by farmsteads almost as primitive as
those of Troutbeck, and evidently mounting the spurs
of Loughrigg, — which he is travelling round to-day,
and which must therefore be always on his right hand.
After a while, he comes to a sheet of water, so still, if
the day be calm, that he might possibly miss it, unless
the precision of the reflections should strike his eye.
It is more likely, however, to be rippled by some breeze,
and to show how deeply blue, or darkly grey, these
mountain tarns may be. This is Loughrigg tarn, well
known to all readers of Wordsworth. At some little
distance beyond it, the stranger must diverge from his
road to visit High Close, and see the view which is re-

48 LAKGDALE.

puted the finest in Westmorland. He may leave his
car where the road to High Close ascends to the left,
and walk to the farm-house at the top. As there are
probably lodgers, he had better not present himself at
the garden door, but go on to the farmyard gate, pass
through the yard to the field, and walk along the brow
till he reaches the grey stone bench. There he is !
overlooking "the finest view in Westmorland." To
the extreme right, Bowfell closes in the Langdale
valley, the head of which is ennobled by the swelling
masses of the Pikes. A dark cleft in the nearer one is
the place where the celebrated Dungeon Ghyll Force is
plunging and foaming, beyond the reach of e}^e and ear.
He can gather from this station, something of the
character of Langdale. It has levels, here expanding,
there contracting ; and the stream winds among them
from end to end. There is no lake : and the mountains
send out spurs, alternating or meeting, so as to make
the levels sometimes circular and sometimes winding.
The dwellings are on the rising grounds which skirt the
levels ; and this, together with the paving of the road
below, shows that the valley is subject to floods. The
houses, of grey-stone, each on its knoll, with a canopy
of firs and sycamores above it, and ferns scattered all
around, and ewes and lambs nestling near it, — these
primitive farms are cheerful and pleasant objects to look
upon, whether from above or passing among them.
•Nearer at hand are some vast quarries of blue slate.
Below, among plantations, are seen the roofs of the
Elterwater Powder Mills ; whence the road winds
through the village of Langdale Chapel, to the margin

EED BANK. 49

of the pools which make up the lake. From their
opposite shore rise the hills, height above height, —
range beyond range. To the left lies Loughrigg Tarn,
and, in the distance,* Windermere, with Wray Castle
prominent on its height, and the Lancashire hills clos-
ing in the view. It is a singular prospect, at once noble
and lovely ; and the comfortable lodgings at High Close
farm are in request accordingly.

The car is waiting where the traveller left it ; but he
had better walk for half-a-mile or so, — the descent of
Red Bank being very steep. The great mountain that
swells so grandly above the rest before him is Helvellyn.
The lake that opens below is Grasmere, with its one
island, made up of green slope, black fir clump, and grey
barn. At the further end lies the village, with its old
square church tower, beneath whose shadow Words-
worth is buried. The white road that winds like a
ribbon up and up the gap between Helvellyn and the
opposite fells is the mail road to Keswick, and the gap
is Dunmail Raise. The remarkable and beautiful hill
behind the village is Helm Crag ; and its rocky crest
forms the group called the Lion and the Lamb. The
long white house, near the foot of Helvellyn, is the
Swan Inn, whence Scott, Southey, and Wordsworth,
set forth on ponies for the ascent of the mountain : and
behind it rises the path by which pedestrians come from
Grasmere to Patterdale, by the margin of Grisedale
tarn, — the mountain tarn of the wild boar, as the
words properly signify. To the left of Helm Crag, a
deep valley evidently opens. That is Easedale ; and
there our tourist is to go to-day. Meantime, let him

50 GRASMERE INNS.

linger awhile, that he may learn by heart every feature
of this gay and lovely scene. The lane he has just
passed to the right leads him to the grassy bridle-road
called Loughrigg Terrace, whence the best views are
obtained of both Grasmere and Rydal lakes, and which
leads along the uplands and then by Eydal Lake back
to the valley of the Rothay. We must leave it now, and
plunge down Eed Bank, which has the characteristics
of a Norwegian road." At the cistern at- the bottom,
the stranger enters his car, and passes farm houses
between him and the lake, and villas on the rocky and
wooded bank on the left ; and, at the corner, where the
road turns to the village, the cluster of lodging-houses,
called St. Oswald's, where the Hydropathic Establish-
ment struggled on for a time, but found the Westmor-
land winters too long for invalids.

The driver must stop at the Red Lion, to order
dinner. It is an old-fashioned little place, where the
traveller's choice is usually between ham and eggs and
eggs and ham ; with the addition, however, of cheese
and oat cake. He goes to the Red Lion now merely
because it is on the way to his destination. If he were
going to stay at Grasmere, he would take up his abode
at the Hotel kept by Mr. Brown. The beauty of the
view from that house is evident at a glance ; and good
accommodations will be found within, with ample
means of conveyance of all kinds. Whatever the
dinner at the Red Lion is to be, it must not be
ready under two or three hours ; — rather three
than two. He proceeds for a mile between fences
before he reaches the opening of Easedale. The gate

EASEDALE TARN. 51

and shrubbery to the right are the entrance to Lady
Kichardson's cottage ; and there the regular road ends.
The car can go about a mile further along the farm
tracks in the valley, through the meadows which yield
a coarse hay, and near the stream which is tufted with
alders. At the farm house where the car stops, the
people will shew the stranger the way he must go, —
past the plantation, and up the hill side, where he will
find the track that will guide him up to the waterfall,
— the foaming cataract which is seen all over the valley,
and is called Sour Milk Ghyll Force. The water and
the track together will shew him the way to the tarn,
which is the source of the stream. Up and on he goes,
over rock and through wet moss, with long stretches of
dry turf and purple heather ; and at last, when he is
heated and breathless, the dark cool recess opens in
which lies Easedale Tarn. Perhaps there is an angler
standing besides the great boulder on the brink. Per-
haps there is a shepherd lying among the ferns. But
more probably the stranger finds himself perfectly alone.
There is perhaps nothing in natural scenery which
conveys such an impression of stillness as tarns which
lie under precipices : and here the rocks sweep down to
the brink almost round the entire margin. For hours
together the deep shadows move only like the gnomon
of the sundial ; and, when movement occurs, it is not
such as disturbs the sense of repose; — the dimple
made by a restless fish or fly, or the gentle flow of
water in or out ; or the wild drake and his brood, pad-
dling so quietly as not to break up the mirror, or the
reflection of some touch of sunlight, or passing shadow.

D

52 WOEDSWOETH's GEAVE;

If there is commotion from gusts or eddies of wind,
the effect is even more remarkable. Little white clouds
are driven against the rocks, — the spray is spilled in
unexpected places ; now the precipices are wholly
veiled, and there is nothing but the ruffled water to be
seen : and again, in an instant, the rocks are disclosed
so fearfully that they seem to be crowding together to
crush the intruder. If this seems to the inexperienced
like extravagance, let him go alone to Easedale Tarn, or
to Angle Tarn on Bowfell, on a gusty day, and see
what he will find.

After his return to the Bed Lion, and his dinner, the
stranger will go to the churchyard. In the church is
a medallion portrait of Wordsworth, accompanied by
an inscription adapted from a dedication of Mr. Keble's.
The simple and modest tombstone in the churchyard
will please him better. At present it bears only the
name of the poet, — in his case, an all-sufficient memo-
rial : but it is understood that some dates and other
particulars will be filled in hereafter. Beside him lies
his only daughter, and next to her, her husband, —
whose first wife is next him on the other side. Some
other children of Wordsworth, who died young, are
buried near ; and one grandchild. Close behind the
family group lies Hartley Coleridge, at whose funeral
the white-haired Wordsworth attended, not very long
before his own death. This spot, under the yews, be-
sides the gushing Bothay and encircled by green
mountains, is a fitting resting-place for the poet of the
region. He chose it himself; and every one rejoices
that he did.

EYDAL LAKE. 53

Just after entering the mail road, the driver will
point out the cottage in which the poet and his sister
lived, many long years ago, when Scott was their guest.
Several good houses have sprung up near it, within a
few years. The promontory which here causes the lake
to contract to the little river (which is called the
Rothay in all the intervals of the chain of lakes,) may
be passed in three ways. The mail road runs round its
point, and therefore keeps beside the water ; — the
Roman road, where the Wishing Grate used to be,
crosses it by a rather steep ascent and descent ; — and
a shorter road still, steeper and boggy, cuts across its
narrowest part, and comes out at the Rydal Quarries.
Our traveller will take the mail road, probably. It will
soon bring him to Rydal Lake ; and he cannot but
think the valley very lovely in the summer afternoon.
On the opposite side of the lake is Loughrigg, with its
terrace- walk distinctly visible half-way up. The islands
are wooded ; and on one of them is a heronry ; and the
grey bird, with its long napping wings, is most likely
visible, either in flight, or perched on a tree near its
nest, or fishing in the shallows. Nab Scar, the blunt
end of Fairfield, which overlooks the road and the lake,
is very fine with its water-worn channels, its wood, and
grey rocks. Nab Cottage, the humble white house by
the road side, and on the margin of the lake, is the
place where Hartley Coleridge lived and died. In the
distance, Ivy Cottage peeps out of the green ; and fur-
ther on, Rydal Chapel rises out of the foliage on the
verge of the park.

When the turn to the left, which leads up to that

J)2

54 WORDSWORTH' S GARDEN.

chapel, is readied, the stranger must alight, and ascend
it. He is ascending Rydal Mount : and Wordsworth's
house is at the top of the hill, — within the modest
gate on the left. If the family should be absent, the
traveller may possibly obtain entrance, and stand on
the mossgrown eminence, (like a little Roman camp,)
in front of the house, whence he may view the whole
valley of the Roth ay to the utmost advantage. Win-
dermere in the distance is, as Wordsworth used to say,
a light thrown into the picture, in the winter season,
and, in summer, a beautiful feature, changing with
every hue of the sky. The whole garden is a true
poet's garden ; its green hollows, its straight terraces,
bordered with beds of periwinkle, and tall foxgloves,
purple and white, — (the white being the poet's
favourite) ; and then the summer house, — (now, how-
ever, damp and dreary, with the fircones that line it
dropping out of their places) ; and then the opening of
the door, which discloses the other angle of the pros-
pect, — Rydal Pass, with the lake lying below. Every
resident in the neighbourhood thinks the situation of
his own house the best : but most agree that Words-
worth's comes next. We should say that Words-
worth's came next to Mr. Sheldon's at Miller Brow,
but for the great disadvantage of the long and steep
ascent to it. That ascent is a serious last stage of a
walk on a hot summer day ; but the privileges of the
spot, when once reached, are almost incomparable.

The guide to the Rydal Falls will by this time have
presented herself, and the tourist must visit them.
They are within the park, and cannot be seen without

•

BYDAL FALLS. 55

a guide : but some one is always to be found at one of
the two guides' cottages on the ascent of the hill.
The upper fall is the finest, in the eyes of those who
prefer the most natural accessaries of a cascade : but
the lower is the one generally represented by artists, —
the summer-house from which it is viewed affording an
admirable picture- frame, and the basin of rock, and the
bridge above, constituting, in truth, a very perfect
picture. When there is a dash of sunshine on the ver-
dure, behind and under the bridge, to contrast with the
shadowy basin and pool of the fall, the subject is tempt-
ing enough to the artist.

These falls seen, the tourist need alight from his car
no more, for he is only a mile and a-half from Amble-
side. He presently passes Pelter Bridge, which spans
the Eothay on the right. That is the way to Fox
How : and he presently sees Fox How, — the grey
house embosomed in trees, — at the foot of Loughrigg.
He must not mistake for it the gem of a house that he
sees, — the cream-coloured one, veiled in roses, with the
conservatories beside it, just under the wooded preci-
pice : — that is Foxghyll, the residence of Hornby
Eoughsedge, Esq. To the left, there are good views of
Eydal Park. Approaching Ambleside, the first house
to the left is Lesketh How, the residence of Dr. Davy :
the white house to the right is Tranby Lodge, the
abode of Alfred Barkworth, Esq. : and the house on the
rising ground behind the chapel is the Knoll, the resi-
dence of Miss. H. Martineau. The gates on the left
are those of Green Bank, the estate of Benson Harrison,
Esq. : and the pretty cottage next reached on the same

d3

56 AMBLESIDE.

side is that of James C. Wilson, Esq., called Low Nook.
The stream to the right is the Stock, making its way
to the river: and the odd little grey dwelling "built
above it is the ancient house which is considered the
most curious relic in Ambleside of the olden time. The
view of the mill and the rocky channel of the Stock on
the left of the bridge is the one which every artist
sketches as he passes by ; and if there is in the Exhibi-
tion in London, in any year, a view at Ambleside, it is
probably this. The Kirkstone road now joins the mail
road, and the tourist finds himself on old ground, — in
Ambleside market-place.

A DAY ON THE MOUNTAINS.

The stranger has now made his three tours. There
is one thing more that he must do before he goes on
into Cumberland. He must spend a day on the Moun-
tains : and if alone, so much the better. If he knows
what it is to spend a day so far above the every-day
world, he is aware that it is good to be alone, (unless
there is danger in the case) ; and, if he is a novice, let
him try whether it be not so. Let him go forth early,
with a stout stick in his hand, provision for the day in
his knapsack or his pocket ; and, if he chooses, a book :
but we do not think he will read to-day. A map is
essential, to explain to him what he sees : and it is very
well to have a pocket compass, in case of sudden fog,
or any awkward doubt about the way. In case of an
ascent of a formidable mountain, like Scawfell or Hel-
vellyn, it is rash to go without a guide : but our tourist
shall undertake something more moderate, and reason-
ably safe, for a beginning.

What mountain shall it be? He might go up
Blackcombe, on his way to or from Furness : and from
thence he might see, in fair weather, as Wordsworth
tells us, "a more extensive view than from any other
point in Britain," — seven English counties, and seven

58 CHOICE OE A MOUNTAIN.

Scotch, a good deal of Wales, the Isle of Man, and in
some lucky moment, just before sunrise (as the Ordnance
surveyors say) the coast of Ireland. This is very fine ;
but it is hardly what is looked for in the lake district,
— the sea being the main feature. He might go up
the Old Man from Coniston ; but there are the copper
works, and there is the necessity of a guide : and it is a
long way to go for the day's treat. If he ascends the
Langdale Pikes, it had better be from some interior
station ; and the rest of the great peaks will be best
commanded from Keswick. Of those within reach of
Ambleside, which shall it be ? Loughrigg is very easy
and very charming ; but it is not commanding enough.
From the surrounding heights it looks like a mere
rambling hill. Wansfell is nearest, and also easy and
safe. It may be reached by a charming walk from
Low Wood Inn, and descended by the Stockghyll lane,
above Ambleside. The immediate neighbourhood is
mapped out below ; and there is a long and wide open-
ing to the south : but to the north-east, and everywhere
round the head of the lake, the view is stopped, first by
Nab Scar, and then by other heights. Why should it
not be Nab Scar itself ? or, the whole of Fairfield ?
That excursion is safe, not over fatiguing, practicable
for a summer day, and presenting scenery as character-
istic as can be found. Let it be Fairfield.

The stranger should ascend to the ridge, either
through Bydal forest, (for which leave is requisite, and
not always easily obtained,) or by the road to
the Nook which anybody will shew him. The
Nook is a farmhouse in a glorious situation as he will

MOUNTAIN FENCES. 59

see when he gets there and steps into the field on the
left, to look abroad from the brow. He then passes
under its old trees to where the voice of falling waters
calls him onward. Scandale Beck comes tumbling
down its rocky channel, close at hand. He must cross
the bridge, and follow the cart-road, which brings him
out at once upon the fells. What he has to aim at is
the ridge above Bydal forest or park, from whence his
way is plain, — round the whole cul-de-sac of Fairfield,
to Nab Scar. He sees it all ; and the only thing is to
do it : and we know of no obstacle to his doing it, unless
it be the stone wall which divides the Scandale from the
Rydal side of the ridge. These stone walls are an in-
convenience to pedestrians, and a great blemish in the
eyes of strangers. In the first place, however, it is to
be said that an open way is almost invariably left, up
every mountain, if the rover can but find it ; and, in
the next place, the ugliness of these climbing fences
disappears marvellously when the stranger learns how
they came there. — In the old times, when there were
wolves, and when the abbots of the surrounding Norman
monasteries encouraged their tenants to approach nearer
and nearer to the Saxon fastnesses, the shepherds were
allowed to inclose crofts about their hillside huts, for
the sake of browsing their flocks on the sprouts of the
ash and holly with which the hillsides were then
wooded, and of protecting the sheep from the wolves
which haunted the thickets. The inclosures certainly
spread up the mountain sides, at this day, to a height
where they would not be seen if ancient custom had
not drawn the lines which are thus preserved ; and it

60 EYDAL PAEK.

appears, from historical testimony, that these fences
existed before the fertile valleys were portioned out
among many holders. Higher and higher ran these
stone inclosures, — threading the woods, and joining on
upon the rocks. Now, the woods are for the most part
gone ; and the walls offend and perplex the stranger's
eye and mind by their unsightliness and apparent use-
lessness ; but it is a question whether, their origin once
known, they would be willingly parted with, — remind-
ing us as they do of the times when the tenants of the
abbots or military nobles formed a link between the
new race of inhabitants and the Saxon remnant of the
old. One of these walls it is which runs along the
ridge and bounds Rydal Park. There may be a gate in
it ; or one which enables the stranger to get round it.
If not, he must get over it ; and, if he does so, high
enough up, it may save him another climb. The
nearer the ridge, the fewer the remaining walls between
him and liberty. Once in the forest, Christopher
North's advice comes into his mind, — unspoiled by the
fear, only too reasonable in the lower part of the park,
— of being turned out of the paradise, very summarily.
"The sylvan, or rather, the forest scenery of Rydal
Park," says Professor Wilson, "was, in the memory of
living man, magnificent ; and it still contains a treasure
of old trees. By all means wander away into these old
woods, and lose yourself for an hour or two among the
cooing of cushats and the shrill shriek of startled
blackbirds, and the rustle of the harmless glow-worm
among the last year's beech leaves. No very great
harm should you even fall asleep under the shadow of

MOUNTAIN SOLITUDE. 61

an oak, whilst the magpie chatters at safe distance^ and
the more innocent squirrel peeps down upon you from
a bough of the canopy, and then, hoisting his tail,
glides into the obscurity of the loftiest umbrage." —
Ascending from these shades through a more straggling
woodland, the stranger arrives at a clump on the ridge,
— the last clump, and thenceforth feels himself wholly
free. His foot is on the springy mountain moss ; and
many a cushion of heather tempts him to sit down and
look abroad. There may still be a frightened cow or
two, wheeling away, with tail aloft, as he comes on-
wards ; and a few sheep are still crouching in the
shadows of the rocks, or staring at him from the knolls.
If he plays the child and bleats, he will soon see how
many there are. It is one of the amusements of a good
mimic in such places to bring about him all the animals
there are, by imitating their cries. One may assemble
a flock of sheep, and lead them far out of bounds in this
way ; and bewildered enough they look when the bleat
ceases, and they are left to find their way back again.
It is in such places as this that the truth of some of
Wordsworth's touches may be recognised, which are
most amusing to cockney readers. Perhaps no passage
has been more ridiculed than that which tells of the
"solemn bleat' ' of

" a lamb left somewhere to itself,
The plaintive spirit of the solitude/'

The laughers are thinking of a cattle market, or a
flock of sheep on a dusty road ; and they know nothing
of the effect of a single bleat of a stray lamb high up
on the mountains. If they had ever felt the profound

62 RAIN GUAGES.

stillness of the higher fells, or heard it broken by the
plaintive cry, repeated and not answered, they would
be aware that there is a true solemnity in the sound.

Still further on, when the sheep are all left behind,
he may see a hawk perched upon a great boulder. He
will see it take flight when he comes near, and cleave
the air below him, and hang above the woods, — to the
infinite terror, as he knows, of many a small creature
there, and then whirl away to some distant part of the
park. Perhaps a heavy buzzard may rise, flapping,
from its nest on the moor, or pounce from a crag in the
direction of any water-birds that may be about the
springs and pools in the hills. There is no other sound,
unless it be the hum of the gnats in the hot sunshine.
There is an aged man in the district, however, who
hears more than this, and sees more than people below
would, perhaps, imagine. An old shepherd has the
charge of four rain guages which are set up on four
ridges, — desolate, misty spots, sometimes below and
often above the clouds. He visits each once a month,
and notes down what these guages record ; and when
the tall old man, with his staff, passes out of sight into
the cloud, or among the cresting rocks, it is a striking
thought that science has set up a tabernacle in these
wildernesses, and found a priest among the shepherds.
That old man has seen and heard wonderful things : —
has trod upon rainbows, and been waited upon by a
dim retinue of spectral mists. He has seen the hail
and the lightnings go forth as from under his hand,
and has stood in the sunshine, listening to the thunder
growling, and the tempest bursting beneath his feet.

FAIKFIELD. 63

He well knows the silence of the hills, and all the solemn
ways in which that silence is broken. The stranger,
however, coming hither on a calm summer day may
well fancy that a silence like this can never be broken.
Looking abroad, what does he see ? The first im-
pression probably is of the billowy character of the
mountain groups around and below him. This is per-
haps the most striking feature of such a scene to a
novice ; and the next is the flitting character of the
mists. One ghostly peak after another seems to rise
out of its shroud; and then the shroud winds itself
round another. Here the mist floats over a valley;
there it reeks out of a chasm : here it rests upon a
green slope ; there it curls up a black precipice. The
sunny vales below look like a paradise, with their bright
meadows and waters and shadowy woods, and little
knots of villages. To the south there is the glittering
sea ; and the estuaries of the Leven and Duddon, with
their stretches of yellow sands. To the east there is a
sea of hill tops. On the north, Ullswater appears,
grey and calm at the foot of black precipices ; and
nearer may be traced the whole pass from Patter-
dale, where Brothers' Water lies invisible from hence.
The finest point of the whole excursion is about the
middle of the cul-de-sac, where, on the northern sides,
there are tremendous precipices, overlooking Deepdale,
and other sweet recesses far below. Here, within hear-
ing of the torrents which tumble from those precipices,
the rover should rest. He will see nothing so fine as
the contrast of this northern view with the long green
slope on the other side, down to the source of Bydal

64 TEN" LAKES AKD TARNS.

Beck, and then down and down to Bydal Woods and
Mount. He is now 2,950 feet above the sea level ; and
he has surely earned his meal. If the wind troubles
him, he can doubtless find a sheltered place under a
rock. If he can sit on the bare ridge, he is the more
fortunate.

The further he goes, the more amazed he is at the
extent of the walk, which looked such a trifle from be-
low. Waking out of a reverie, an hour after dinner, he
sees that the sun is some way down the western sky.
He hastens on, not heeding the boggy spaces, and
springing along the pathless heather and moss, seeing
more and more lakes and tarns every quarter of an
hour. In the course of the day he sees ten. Winder-
mere, and little Blelham Tarn beyond, he saw first.
Ullswater was below him to the north when he dined ;
and, presently after, a tempting path guided his eye to
Grisedale Tarn, lying in the pass from Patterdale to
Grasmere. Here are four. Next, comes G-rasmere,
with Easedale Tarn above it, in its mountain hollow :
then Eydal, of course, at his feet ; and Elterwater
beyond the western ridges ; and finally, to the south-
west, Esthwaite Water and Coniston. There are the
ten. Eight of these may be seen at once from at least
one point — Nab Scar, whence he must take his last
complete survey ; for from hence he must plunge down
the steep slope, and bid farewell to all that lies behind
the ridge. The day has gone like an hour. The sun-
shine is leaving the surface of the nearer lakes, and the
purple bloom of the evening is on the further moun-
tains ; and the gushes of yellow light between the

EETUEN. 65

western passes show that sunset is near. He must
hasten down, — mindful of the opening between the
fences, which he remarked from below, and which, if he
finds, he cannot lose his way. He does not seriously
lose his way, though crag and bog make him diverge
now and then. Descending between the inclosures, he
sits down once or twice, to relieve the fatigue to the
ancle and instep of so continuous a descent, and to
linger a little over the beauty of the evening scene. As
he comes down into the basin where Eydal Beck makes
its last gambols and leaps, before entering the park, he
is sensible of the approach of night. Loughrigg seems
to rise : the hills seem to close him in, and the twilight
to settle down. He comes to a gate, and finds himself
in the civilised world again. He descends the green
lane at the top of Eydal Mount, comes out just above
Wordsworth's gate, finds his car at the bottom of the
hill, — (the driver beginning to speculate on whether
any accident has befallen the gentleman on the hills,) —
is driven home, and is amazed, on getting out, to find
how stiff and tired he is. He would not, however, but
have spent such a day for ten times the fatigue. He
will certainly ascend Helvellyn, and every other moun-
tain that comes in his wav.

PAET II.

KESWICK AND ITS ENVIRONS.

MILES. MILES.

Ambleside to Grasmere 4

2^ Dunmail Raise 6|

H Nag's Head 7f

2| St. John's Vale (mail road) 10

4f Castlerigg 14f

1£ Keswick 16

Some call Ambleside the head quarters of the lake
district, and others Keswick. It is not necessary to
settle this point of precedence here. Having treated of
Ambleside first, because the tourist arrived there first,
Keswick claims the next notice.

The road from Ambleside to Keswick has already
fallen under our observation as far as Grasmere, and its
conspicuous white inn, the Swan. That inn had the
honour of providing Scott with a daily draught of some-
thing good, when he was, in his early days, the guest
of Wordsworth and his sister at Grasmere, — their
board being conscientiously humble, as they used to
tell, to a degree, which did not suit the taste of their

E

68 DUNMAIL BAISE.

guest. By some device or another, Scott managed to
pay a daily visit to the Swan without his friends being
aware of it. But, when he, Wordsworth, and Southey
were to ascend Helvellyn, mounting their ponies at the
Swan, the host saw their approach, and cried out to
Scott, " Eh, sir ! you've come early for your drink to-
day." It was a complete escape of the cat from the
bag ; but Wordsworth was not one to be troubled by
such a discovery. No doubt he took the unlucky
speech more serenely than his guest.

From the Swan, the road to Keswick ascends Dun-
mail Baise ; — a steep pitch of road, though its highest
point is only 720 feet above the sea. On the right
there is a stream which divides the counties of Cumber-
land and Westmorland; and on either hand rise the
mountains of Steel Fell and Seat Sandal. The cairn,
— a rude mass of stones near the top of the ascent,
which the stranger should be on the look out for,
marks the spot of a critical conflict in the olden time, —
that is, in A.D. 945, — when the Anglo Saxon King
Edmund defeated and slew Dunmail, the British King
of Cumbria, and then put out the eyes of the two sons
of his slain foe, and gave their inheritance to Malcolm,
King of Scotland.

At the Nag's Head, the little inn which is about a
mile and a-quarter further on, the traveller must decide
on one of three courses, — as politicians are wont to do.
He may go up Helvellyn, or he may bowl along on the
high road, straight through Legberthwaite, and imme-
diately under Helvellyn ; or he may go on foot, or on a
pony, round the western side of the lake, which is

THIRLMEEE. 69

known by the various names of Wythburn Water,
Leathes Water, and Thirlmere. It is a choice of plea-
sures ; and he will ascend Helvellyn hereafter, if he
does not now. Of the two lake roads, the rude western
one is unquestionably the finest. The woods, which
were once so thick that the squirrel is said to have gone
from Wythburn to Keswick without touching the
ground, are cleared away now ; and the only gloom in
the scene is from the mass of Helvellyn. The stranger
leaves the mail road within a mile of the Nag's Head,
passes the cottages called by the boastful name of the
City of Wythburn, and a few farm-houses, and soon
emerging from the fences, finds himself on a grassy
level under the Armboth Fells, within an amphitheatre
of rocks, with the lake before him, and Helvellyn be-
yond, overshadowing it. The rocks behind are feathered
with wood, except where a bold crag here, and a free
cataract there introduces a variety. There is a clear
pool in the midst of the grass, where, if the approaching
tread be light, the heron may be seen fishing, or faith-
fully reflected in the mirror. The track leads by the
margin of the lake, and through a shady lane, and a
farm yard, to the bridge by which the lake is to be
crossed. The water is shallow there, between two pro-
montories ; so that piers are easily built, with little
wooden bridges at intervals : and thus is solved what is
to novices a great mystery ; — how there can be a bridge
over a lake. There is another mystery just behind,
under the Armboth Fells, — a haunted house. Lights
are seen there at night, the people say ; and the bells
ring ; and just as the bells all set off ringing, a large

e2

70 YALE OF ST. JOHjS".

dog is seen swimming across the lake. The plates and
dishes clatter ; and the table is spread by unseen hands.
That is the preparation for the ghostly wedding feast
of a murdered bride, who comes up from her watery
bed in the lake to keep her terrible nuptials. There is
really something remarkable, and like witchery, about
the house. On a bright moonlight night, the spectator
who looks towards it from a distance of two or three
miles, sees the light reflected from its windows into the
lake ; and, when a slight fog gives a reddish hue to the
light, the whole might easily be taken for an illumina-
tion of a great mansion. And this mansion seems to
vanish as you approach, — being no mansion, but a
small house tying in a nook, and overshadowed by a hill.
The bridge being crossed, another bit of lane leads out
upon the high road near the clean little inn, the King's
Head, and within view of the vale of St. John.

One would like to know how often the Bridal of
Triermain has been read within that vale. The Castle
Rock, in its disenchanted condition, is a prominent
object in approaching the vale from Legberthwaite, or
by the road just described ; and there are lights and
gloomy moments in which it looks as like as may be to
a scene of witchery, — now engrossing the sunshine
when the range to which it belongs is all in shadow ;
and now perversely gloomy, because there is a single
cloud in the sky . The narrow vale is full of character
and charm, from end to end ; and at its northern extre-
mity it comes out upon a spot of strong historical
interest. The village of Threlkeld will, by its name, re-
mind the traveller of the good Lord Clifford, the story of

CASTLERIGG. 71

whose boyhood is familiar to all readers of Wordsworth.
That place is, indeed, the refuge where the boy passed
his shepherd life ; and there is a local tradition that,
though he never learned to read or write, during the
twenty-four years that he spent in keeping sheep, his
astronomical knowledge was considerable, and so inter-
esting to him that he improved it by study after he
came to his estates. The road through Threlkeld will,
however, be followed by the traveller on another occa-
sion, and not now : for he must not miss that view from
Castlerigg, which made the poet Gray long to go back
again to Keswick ; and he will not, therefore, now pass
through the vale. Within five miles from the peep
into it, the view opens, which presently comprehends
the whole extent from Bassenthwaite Lake to the
entrance of Borrowdale, — the plain between the two
lakes of Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water, presenting
one of the richest scenes in England, — with the town
of Keswick, and many a hamlet and farmstead besides ;
and the two churches, — the long, white, old-fashioned
Crosthwaite church, in which Southey is buried, and the
new red-stone church of St. John, with its spire, and
the school houses and pretty parsonage at hand. These
were built by the late John Marshall, of Hallsteads, —
a name which is more spoiled than dignified by any
conventional addition. The church and parsonage were
occupied by the husband of one of his daughters ; and
now heand his son-in-law lie buried there together.
Skiddaw is here the monarch of the scene. That moun-
tain mass occupies the north of the view. Bassenthwaite
lake peeps from behind it : then the plain of the Derwent

E 3

72 MR. eliktoet's model.

stretches out to the lake of that name ; and at the
southern end the Borrowdale mountains are grouped
with wonderful effect, — Castle Crag occupying the most
conspicuous place. On the eastern side, to the left of
the spectator, Wallabarrow Crag rears its crest, and
unfolds its woods below ; while the opposite side of the
lake is guarded by Cat Bells and other mountains, bare
and pointed, and possessing a character of their own.
A steep winding road descends into the valley ; and at
the foot of the hill lies Keswick.

There is no beauty in the primitive little town itself ;
but it has its attractions, besides the convenience of its
central situation among so many mountains and valleys.
Of these attractions, the first is, undoubtedly, Mr. Flin-
toft's Model of the Lake District, which is within a few
yards of all the principal inns, and may be seen during
a shower, when, otherwise, the stranger might be losing
temper in hearing the rain drip. That model, — at
first sight an uneven ugly bit of plaster, — will beguile
a sensible traveller of a longer time than he would sup-
pose possible. Ten minutes would give him a better
idea of the structure and distribution of the country
than all maps and guide books ; but he will probably
linger over it till he has learned all the sixteen large
lakes, and some of the fifty-two small ones, and traced
every road and main pass in the district. Crosthwaite's
Museum is also a place of great interest, for its own
sake, as well as that of its founder, — Peter Crosthwaite,
the first real explorer, surveyor and draughtsman of the
district, and the inventor of the seolian harp, the life-
boat (the reward of which invention he missed through

KESWICK. 73

carelessness in a government office,) and various other
matters, useful or curious. The museum contains
ancient coins, ancient books, and a good geological and
mineralogical collection. It was begun between 70 and
80 years ago ; and the founder died in 1808. It is pre-
served, improved and exhibited by his descendants.

The inns of Keswick are numerous. The chief are
the Eoyal Oak, the Queen's Head, and the King's
Arms, — all good.

EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK.

DEEWENT WATEE.

The first object of attention will be the lake itself;
and it will probably be viewed by boat. The uppermost
thought at all points about the foot of the lake is of the
Derwentwater family. They had once a castle on the
hill called Castlehead, where they built upon the site of
a Druidical circle. This hill should be visited for the
view. The Batcliffes also possessed Lord's Island, the
largest on the lake, where their mansion is said to have
been built, from the stones of the old one on Castle-
head. Kamps Holme, another of the islands, was
their' s also ; and the hermit, the dear friend of St.
Cuthbert, who lived in St. Herbert's Isle in the seventh
century, is somehow mixed up in legends, in local
imaginations which are careless of dates, with the same
family. All that is known of St. Herbert is, that he
really had a hermitage in that island, and that St.
Cuthbert and he used to meet, either at Lindisfarn or
Derwentwater, once a-year. The legend about their
deaths is well known ; that, according to their prayer,
they died on the same day. There is beauty in the
tradition that the man of action and the man of me-
ditation, the propagandist and the recluse, were so
dear to each other, and so congenial. Yicar's, or

& 3

Ph
H
Q

DEKWENT WATER. 75

Derwent Isle, is the other of the four larger islands.
Lord's Isle was once a part of the mainland. The
Ratcliffes cut a fosse, in the feudal times, and set up a
drawbridge. When the young Lord Derwentwater
was captured for being " out " in 1715, his lady
escaped, and saved her liberty and the family jewels
(to use them on behalf of her husband) by clambering
up one of the clefts of Wallabarrow Crag, since called
the Lady's Rake. Every where are there traces of the
unhappy family ; even in the sky, where the aurora
borealis is sometimes called, to this day, Lord Derwent-
water' s lights, because it was particularly brilliant the
night after his execution.

The lake is about three miles long, and, at its broad-
est part, about a mile and a half wide. Its waters are
singularly clear, and its surface often unruffled as a
mirror. Then it reflects the surrounding shores with
marvellous beauty of effect, — from the bare crest of
the crag and peak of the mountain to the grassy knoll
and overhanging birch. Pike, trout, and perch abound
in the lake ; but not char, which requires deeper water.
The Floating Island, whose appearance is announced in
the newspapers at intervals of a few years, has obtained
more celebrity than it deserves. It is a mass of soil
and decayed vegetation, which rises when distended
with gases, and sinks again when it has parted with
them at the surface. Such is the explanation given by
philosophers of this piece of natural magic, which has
excited so much sensation during successive generations .
Sometimes it comes up a mere patch, and sometimes
measuring as much as an acre.

FIRST TOUR.

WATENDLATH, BOEEOWDALE, EOSTHWAITE, GEANGE, 10DOEE.

MILES. MILES.

Keswick to Watendlath Road ... ... If

3i Watendlath 5

2 Rosthwaite ... ... ... ... 7

3 Lodore ... ... ... ... 10

3 Keswick ... ... ... ... ... 13

If the tourist desires, (as it is to be hoped that
he does) to see one of the primitive valleys of the dis-
trict, — one of those recesses lapped in the mountains,
where the sounds of civilised life have hardly penetrated,
let him now go to Watendlath (locally called Wathen-
dal) and descend into Borrowdale by Eosthwaite. The
circuit is one of 13 miles ; and it must be accomplished
on foot or horseback ; for there is no carriage-road in
the upper part. So few pass that way that the women
afford a remarkable specimen of the effects of a life of
excessive seclusion. The men go to markets and sales,
and have more use of their tongues and wits accordingly.
The road along the lake side is followed, till it gives
out a branch before reaching Barrow House. Up this
by-road the explorer goes, and passes behind and above
Barrow House, soon reaching the stream that feeds the
Barrow fall, which may be visited by strangers in the
grounds below. The upland valley runs parallel with
the lower one ; and in it lies the clear circular pool
which feeds the fall of Lodore. Stout pedestrians say

WATENDLATH. 77

that the walk over the trackless heather, turning to the
left, over the fells to Thirlmere, is glorious in a fine
autumn day. No doubt it is : but our business now
is to follow the track before us. It takes us to the
little foot-bridge between the tarn and the verge of the
crag ; and the peep down the chasm shows the lake and
the Skidclaw range in beautiful union. Helvellyn rises
to the east, and Scawfell and Bowfell show themselves in
front, all the way down into Borrowdale. The descent
upon Rosthwaite is the concluding treat. The way is
easy, — a gentle slope over grass and elastic heather ;
and the whole surface is starred over with bright heath
flowers. The head of the dale, imposing under all
aspects, opens out, and seems to be spreading its green
levels for the stranger's rest. The passes to Langdale
by the Stake, to Wastdale by Sty Head, and to Butter-
mere by Honister Crag, disclose themselves round the
projecting Glaramara. The other way lie Grange and
the Lake ; and beneath lies Eosthwaite, with the brat-
tling stream behind, which must be crossed by stepping-
stones to reach the little inn. Before turning his face
lakewards, the traveller must go forward a few yards
from Simpson's inn, to where he will see a narrow
entrance and steps in the right-hand fence. He must
go in there, and mount that little hill, called Castlehill,
whence the truest and best total view of Borrowdale is
obtained ; for the station is nearly central.

He is now standing in the middle of that far-famed
Borrowdale, of which so many curious tales are told.
Its inhabitants were once considered as primitive as we
now consider those of Watendlath ; and a good deal

78 ANCIENT WISDOM.

more, if the current stories are true. It is said that an
old Borrowdale man was once sent a very long way for
something very new, by some innovator who had found
his way into the dale. The man was to go with horse
and sacks (for there were no carts, because there was
no road) to bring some lime from beyond Keswick. On
his return, when he was near Grange, it began to rain ;
and the man was alarmed at seeing his sacks begin to
smoke. He got a hatful of water from the river ; but
the smoke grew worse. Assured at length that the
devil must be in any fire which was aggravated by
water, he tossed the whole load over into the river. That
must have been before the dalesmen built their curious
wall ; for they must have had lime for that. Spring
being very charming in Borrowdale, and the sound of the
cuckoo gladsome, the people determined to build a wall
to keep in the cuckoo, and make the spring last for ever.
So they built a wall across the entrance, at Grange.
The plan did not answer ; but that was, according to
the popular belief from generation to generation, because
the wall was not built one course higher. It is
simply for want of a top course in that wall that
eternal spring does not reign in Borrowdale. Another
anecdote shows, however, that a bright wit did occasion-
ally show himself among them. A " statesman" — (an
" estatesman," or small proprietor) — went one day to a
distant fair or sale, and brought home what neither he
nor his neighbours had ever seen before ; — a pair of
stirrups. Home he came jogging, with his feet in his
stirrups ; but, by the time he reached his own door, he
had jammed his feet in so fast that they would not come

BENEFITS OE EDUCATION. 79

out. There was great alarm and lamentation ; but, as
it could not be helped now, the good man patiently sat
his horse in the pasture for a day or two, his family
bringing him food, till the eldest son, vexed to see the
horse suffering by exposure, proposed to bring both into
the stable. This was done ; and there sat the farmer
for several days, — his food being brought to him, as
before. At length, it struck the second son that it was
a pity not to make his father useful, and release the
horse ; so he proposed to carry him, on the saddle, into
the house. By immense exertion it was done ; the
horse being taken alongside the midden in the yard, to
ease the fall : and the good man found himself under his
own roof again, — spinning wool in a corner of the
kitchen. There the mounted man sat spinning, through
the cleverness of his second son, till the lucky hour
arrived of his youngest son's return, — he being a
scholar, — a learned student from St. Bees. After duly
considering the case, he gave his counsel. He suggested
that the goodman should draw his feet out of his shoes.
This was done, amidst the blessings of the family ; and
the goodman was restored to his occupations and to
liberty. The wife was so delighted that she said if she
had a score of children, she would make them all
scholars, — if only she had to begin life again.

It is by no means to be supposed, however, that there
was no wit in the valley, but what had come from
St. Bees. On the contrary, a native genius, on one
occasion, came to a conclusion so striking that it is
doubtful whether any university could rival it. A
stranger came riding into the dale on a mule, and, being

80 THE BOWDER STONE.

bound for the mountains, went up the pass on foot,
leaving the animal in the care of his host. The host
had never seen such a creature before, nor had his
neighbours. Fearing mischief, they consulted the wise
man of the dale ; for they kept a Sagum, or medicine
man, to supply their deficiencies. He came, and after
an examination of the mule, drew a circle round it, and
consulted his books while his charms were burning ;
and, at length, announced that he had found it. The
creature must be, he concluded, a peacock. So Borrow-
dale could then boast, without a rival, of a visit from a
stranger who came riding on a peacock. There is a
real and strong feeling in the district about these old
stories. Only last year, when a Borrowdale man entered
a country inn, a prior guest said simply "cuckoo," and
was instantly knocked down ; and a passionate light
ensued. This cannot last much longer, — judging by
the number of new houses, — abodes of gentry, — built
or building in Borrowdale. The wrath must presently
turn to a laugh in the humblest chimney corner in the
dale.

Eosthwaite is beautifully situated near the centre of
the dale, and at the confluence of the two mountain
brooks which form the Derwent. This river flows
through the lakes of Derwent Water and Bas sen th wait e,
passes Cockermouth, and falls into the sea at Working-
ton. Following its course, the traveller reaches the
Bowder Stone at a mile from Eosthwaite, — a fallen
rock, standing on its point, and about thirty feet high,
and sixty long. There are steps for ascent to the top ;
but it is as well seen from below, where it cannot but

GRANGE. 81

catch the eye of the passenger. A mile further lies
Grange, at the entrance of the dale, with its undulating
bridges crossing the windings of the river. When the
Abbots of Furness owned the whole of Borrowdale, a
few monks were placed at its entrance, to receive and
guard the crops ; and this place was their granary.
It is now a picturesque hamlet, which must be familiar
to all who haunt exhibitions of pictures. Nobody
who carries a pencil can help sitting down on the
grass to sketch it. Just behind it, the noble wooded
rock, which leaves room only for the road and the
river, is Castle Crag ; and nimble youths who have
reached its summit, say the view is splendid. It is,
in itself, a fine spectacle.

After this, the traveller begins to listen for the fall
of Lodore, and he finds the inn at the distance of a
mile from Grange. It is a delighful little inn, clean
and well managed, and, by its situation, preferable to
those at Keswick, except for the convenience of head-
quarters. To visit the fall, the way is through the gay
little garden, and the orchard, (where the fish-preserves
are terrible temptations to waste of time) and over a
foot bridge, and up into the wood, where the path leads
to the front of the mighty chasm. It is the chasm,
with its mass of boulders and its magnificent flanking
towers of rock, that makes the impressiveness of the
Lodore fall, more than the water. No supply short of
a full river or capacious lake could correct the dispro-
portion between the channel and the flood. After the
most copious rains, the spectacle is of a multitude of
little falls, and nowhere of a sheet or bold shoot of

82 LODOKE.

water. The noise is prodigious, as the readers of
Southey's description are aware : and the accessaries
are magnificent. Growder Crag on the left, and
Shepherd's Crag on the right, shine in the sun or frown
in gloom like no other rocks about any of the falls of
the district ; and vegetation nourishes every where,
from the pendulous shrubs in the fissures, 200 feet
overhead, to the wild flowers underfoot in the wood.
On a lustrous summer evening, when the lights are
radiant, and the shadows sharp and deep, the scene is
incomparable, whatever may be the state of the water.
When the stream is fullest, and the wind is favourable,
it is said the fall is heard a distance of four miles.
There is something else to be heard here ; and that is
the Borrowdale echoes. A cannon is planted in the
meadow before the inn, which awakens an uproar from
the surrounding crags to Grlaramara.

The road from Lodore to Keswick, about three miles,
runs between the lake and the Wallabarrow and Falcon
Crags. It is a charming walk in all seasons, — sheltered
in winter, shady, for the most part, in summer ; and in
spring and autumn presenting a vast variety of foliage,
bursting forth or fading.

SECOND TOUR.

BY THE VALE OF NEWLANDS, CRUMMOCK WATER, SCALE HILL
INN, AND BACK BY WHINLATTER.

MILES.

Keswick to Portinscale

1| Swinside

4>\ Keskadale

If Newlands Haws
1| Buttermere Inn ...

4 Scale Hill

4 Lorton

3 Summit of Whinlatter

2| Braithwaite

2^ Keswick

MILES.

H
2f

7

8|
10
14
18
21
23*
26

The tour which embraces the country between the
four lakes, Derwent Water, Buttermere, Crummock
Water, and Bassenthwaite, is one of twenty-six miles ;
and it should be allowed to occupy the greater part of
a day, — time being taken both for survey and refresh-
ment. Its outset will afford a good opportunity for
visiting Greta Hall, Southey's abode, and his monument
in Crosthwaite Church ; — a recumbent statue by
Lough, — the inscription being written by Wordsworth.
The villages along the road, beginning with Portinscale,
will exhibit their own evidence of the employment of
the inhabitants in the woollen manufacture ; an ancient
staple of the town and district, as is shown by the
inscription which has come down from the olden time,
engraved on a flagstone.

" May God Almighty grant His aid
To Keswick and its woollen trade."

84 YALE OF NEWLANDS.

Afterwards, the views over the rich plain, and glimpses
into fertile valleys are charming, till the road winds in
among what the oldest guide-books truly call the solemn
pastoral scenes that open after leaving Keskadale. The
houses of Keskadale are the last seen before entering
on the ascent of Newlands Haws. The vale formed by
the rapid slope of mountains that are bare of trees,
boggy in parts, and elsewhere showing marks of winter
slides, is wholly unlike any thing else in the district.
Its silence, except for the bleating of sheep ; its ancient
folds, down in the hollow, the length and steepness of
the ascent, and the gloom of the mountain, — Great
Robinson, with its tumbling white cataract, — render
this truly "a solemn pastoral scene." At the head of the
vale, it is found not to be shut in. A turn to the right
discloses a new landscape. A descent between green
slopes of the same character leads down directly upon
Buttermere. The opposite side of the hollow is formed
by the mountain Whitelees. The stream at the bottom
flows into Crummock Water ; and the four peaks of
High Crag, Hayrick, High Stile, and Red Pike, are
ranged in front.

The Lake of Buttermere and Honister Crag must be
left for another day. To-day, the turn is to the right,
and not the left. The traveller may proceed along
Crummock Water either by boat or in his carriage.
Or he may leave the horse to bait at Buttermere while
he takes a boat to see Scale Force, and returns.

The meadow between the two lakes is not more than
a mile in extent. The walk to the boat lies through
its small patches of pasture and wooded knolls ; and a

CKTIMMOCK WATER. 85

pretty walk it is. The path is prolonged to Scale Force
over the fields ; but it is usually too swampy to be
agreeable, when a boat can be had. A short row brings
the stranger to the mouth of the stream from the
force ; and he has then to walk a mile among stones,
and over grass, and past an old fold. The chasm
between two walls of rock, which are feathered with
bright waving shrubs, affords a fall of 160 feet, —
high enough to convert the waters into spray before
they reach the ground. It is one of the loftiest water-
falls in the country ; and some think it the most elegant.
There is a point of view not far off which the traveller
should visit. His boat will take him to the little pro-
montory below Melbreak, called Ling Crag. From
200 yards, or rather more, above this, he will see two
lakes and their guardian mountains to the greatest
advantage.

The drive along Crummock Water is one of the
most charming we know ; especially where the road
forms a terrace, overhanging the clear waters, and
sweeping round Rannersdale Knot. Melbreak fills up
the opposite shore, with its isolated bulk ; and Bed
Pike discloses its crater ; both being streaked with red
and lead-coloured screes, and tracts of bright verdure
and darker moss. On the side where the road is,
Whitelees, Grassmoor, and Whiteside rear their swelling
masses ; and the road winds pleasantly among fields
and meadows, till it passes behind the Lanthwaite
Woods, and turns down, in full view of the rich Yale
of Lorton, to Scale Hill Inn. That best and most
home-like of inns should be the traveller's resting

f2

86 SCALE HILL IM\

place for days together, if he desires a central point
whence he may visit a great extent of the lake coun-
try, while in command of a variety of pleasures near
at hand. From Scale Hill he can descend into the
vale of Lorton, and enjoy a change from the rugged-
ness of the dales. Or, he may visit the most solemn
and imposing of the lakes, — Wast Water ; and also
Ennerdale. He commands all the roads to Keswick,
and the vales that lie between. Crummock Water
yields char, as well as every other lake fish, in abun-
dance. The mountain tops are accessible : from
Lowfell, which may be a lady's morning walk, to
Eed Pike, which is a pretty good day's scramble for
a stout student. There is Lowes Water at one end of
Crummock, and Buttermere at the other : and at home
there is a spacious, clean, airy house, standing in a
garden ; good fare, careful attendance, and reasonable
charges. Scale Hill is a place to spend a month in, in
a fine season.

A few minutes will take" the stranger up to the
Station, by a path from the inn door. The Station is
a hill in Lanthwaite Wood, whence a magnificent view
is obtained of the stern mountain group, (the central
group of the whole district,) on the one hand, and the
rich levels of Lorton Vale on the other, backed, in
favourable lights, by the Scotch mountains. This
spot is one on which to linger through a long summer
day, pacing the sward, and choosing seats from rock
to rock, along the whole crest. The stranger must
now, however, take his brief survey, and hope to come
again. He has twelve miles to go to Keswick; and

YALE OF LORTOK. 87

the early part of it is steep and slow. The turn is to
the right, at about a mile from Scale Hill, leaving the
Cockermouth road, which traverses the vale of Lorton.
The higher he ascends, the more lovely are the views
over that vale that the traveller obtains, till at length
the Solway gleams in the sun, and the Scotch moun-
tains appear beyond. If he has good eyes, the driver
will point out to him, at a vast distance, the famous
old Lorton yew, appearing like a dark clump, beside a
white farmhouse. When fairly under Whinlatter, six
or seven miles from Scale Hill, he cannot but ad-
mire, — in one or the other sense of the word, — the
colouring of the hill itself, if the time be anywhere
from June to September. The gaudy hues of the
mingled gorse and heather are, at that season, unlike
any exhibition of colour we have seen elsewhere, — ex-
ceeding even the far-famed American forest. As the
north-western vision vanishes, the south-eastern opens ;
and the vale of Keswick, with Skiddaw in its noblest
aspect, and the lakes far below, looks finer than ever.
After passing through Braithwaite, he soon recognises
the road, and returns to Keswick by the well-known
bridge over the Derwent.

f3

THIRD TOUR.

CIECUIT OF BASSENTHWAITE.

MILES. MILES.

Keswick to Peel Wyke 8

1 Ouse Bridge 9

1 Castle Inn 10

3 Bassenthwaite 13

5 Keswick 18

Bassenthwaite is perhaps the last of the lakes to be
visited, unless it be Hawes Water. Hawes Water is
difficult of access to the ordinary tourist : and Bassen-
thwaite verges towards the flat country, which is not
what the traveller came to visit. It is amusing to
observe how the residents in the district become more
sensible every year to the beauty of the merely undu-
lating country through which the mountains sink into
the plains : while strangers have hardly patience to look
at it, in their eagerness to find themselves under the
shadow of the great central fells. Bassenthwaite is one
of the outermost lakes ; and it is therefore no more
cared for by the tourists in general than the foot of
Coniston or Windermere. Still, considering that Skid-
daw overshadows its eastern shore, it would seem worthy
of some attention ; and the drive of eighteen miles
round it is, in truth, a very pleasant one.

This lake is larger than Derwent Water, being four
miles in length and one mile in breadth. The distance

BASSENTHWAITE. 89

from lake to lake is between three and four miles, a
large proportion of which is apt to be flooded in winter ;
and occasionally the waters actually join, so as to
present the appearance of a lake of ten miles long, —
the length of Windermere. These floods are a serious
drawback to the productiveness of the lake levels, and
the health and comfort of the inhabitants.

The side opposite Skiddaw is the most interesting of
the two; so the traveller takes it first. The road
passes through Portinscale and Braithwaite to Thorn-
thwaite, and leaves Whinlatter on the left. It passes
through woods and pretty glades which make a charming
foreground, while old Skiddaw fills the view on the
opposite shore. Lord's Seat and Barf rise boldly to
the left, and the road runs, for the most part, on the
margin of the lake. It winds round, after passing
Peel Wyke, to Ouse Bridge, beneath which the lake
discharges itself in the form of the much enlarged river
Derwent, which flows away towards Cockermouth. If
it is thought worth while to go a mile or two out of
the way for an exceedingly fine view, the traveller will
follow the Hesket road for a mile beyond Castle Inn,
and ascend the Haws on the right. Thence he will
see a charming landscape, — the open vales of Embleton
and Isell, and the whole expanse of the lake, with its
rich terraced shores. From Castle Inn, it is eight miles
to Keswick. The road turns away from the lake, and
presents nothing more of remarkable beauty.

FOURTH TOUR.

ASCENT OF SKIDDAW.

The ascent of Skiddaw is easy, even for ladies, who
have only to sit their ponies to find themselves at the
top, after a ride of six miles. There must be a guide,
— be the day ever so clear, and the path ever so plain.
Once for all let us say, in all earnestness, and with the
most deliberate decision, that no kind of tourist should
ever cross the higher passes, or ascend the mountains,
without a guide. Surely, lives enough have been lost,
and there has been suffering and danger enough, short
of a fatal issue, to teach this lesson. But the confident
and joyous pedestrian is not the most teachable of
human beings. In his heart he despises the caution of
native residents, and in his sleeve he laughs at it. The
mountain is right before him; the track is visible
enough ; he has a map and guide book, and boasts of
his pocket-compass. With the track on his map, and
track on the mountain, both before his eyes, how should
he get wrong ? So he throws on his knapsack, seizes
his stick, and goes off whistling or singing, — the host
and hostess looking after him and consulting as he
strides away. For some time he thinks he can defy all
the misleading powers of heaven and earth. But, once
out of reach of human help, he finds his case not quite
so easy as he thought. Instead of one path, as marked

GUIDES. 91

on his map, he finds three ; and perhaps the one he
relies on may have disappeared under recent accidents,
or have lapsed into swamp. He finds himself on the
edge of a precipice, and does not know how far to go
hack. He finds the hog deepen, and thinks he can
scarcely he in the right road. He finds a landslip,
which compels him to make a wider circuit, and mean-
time it is growing dusk. Worst of all, a fog may come
on at any moment ; and there is an end of all security
to one who does not know the little wayside-marks
which guide the shepherd in such a case. Tales are
current throughout the region of the deaths of natives,
even in the summer months, through fog, wet, fatigue,
or fall, — the native having a hetter chance than a
stranger, ten times over. And why should the risk be
run ? It cannot be to save the fee, in the case of a
journey of pleasure. The guide is worth more than his
pay for the information he has to give, — to say nothing
of the comfort of his carrying the knapsack, — as many
knapsacks as there are walkers. If solitude be desired,
the meditative gentleman will soon find that anxiety
about the way, and an internal conflict with apprehen-
siveness are sad spoilers of the pleasures of solitude.
Better have a real substantial, comfortable, supporting
shepherd by his side, giving his mind liberty for con-
templation and enjoyment of the scene, than the
spectres of the mountain perplexing him on all sides,
and marring his ease. But enough. Travellers who
know what mountain climbing is, among loose stones,
shaking bog, and slippery rushes or grass, with the
alternative of a hot sun or a strong wind, and perpetual

92 ASCENT.

liability to mist, will not dispute the benefit of having
a guide : and novices ought to defer to their judgment.
If we have seemed to dwell long on this point, it is
because warning is grievously wanted. It will probably
not be taken by those who need it most ; but it ought
to be offered.

Even in the mild ascent of green Skiddaw, then,
there is a guide. — At the distance of half-a-mile from
Keswick, on the Penrith road, just through the toll-
bar, a bridge crosses the Greta. The road, after cross-
ing this bridge, winds round Latrigg, and in the direc-
tion of Low Man, crossing the barren plain called
Skiddaw Forest. The plain of Keswick, and the lake
and its islands, grow smaller and smaller, and the
surrounding mountains seem to swell and rise, as the
road gently climbs the side of Skiddaw; and, when
about half way up, that lower world disappears, while
a more distant one comes into view. The Irish Sea
and the Isle of Man rise, and the Scotch mountains
show themselves marshalled on the horizon. At the
first summit, after a mile of craggy ascent, steeper
than the rest, the city of Carlisle comes into view,
with the coast and its little towns, round to St. Bees,
with the rich plains that lie between. But there is a
higher point to be reached, after an ascent of 500 feet
more ; and here Derwentwater comes into view again.
And how much besides ! Few lakes are seen ; but the
sea of mountain tops is glorious ; and the surrounding
plains ; and the ocean beyond ; and land again beyond
that. In opposite directions, lie visible, Lancaster
Castle and the hills of Kirkcudbright, Wigton and

V \<

-

w

II

DESCENT. 93

Dumfries. Lancaster Castle and Carlisle Cathedral in
the same landscape ! and Snowdon and Criffel nodding
to each other ! Ingleborough, in Yorkshire, looking
at Skiddaw over the whole of Westmorland that lies
between ; with the Isle of Man as a resting place for
the glance on its way to Ireland ! St. Bees Head,
with the noiseless waves dashing against the red rocks,
being almost within reach as it were ! And, as for
Scawfell, Helvellyn, and Saddleback, thay stand up like
comrades, close round about. Charles Lamb was no
great lover of mountains : but he enjoyed what he saw
here. " 0 ! its fine black head," he wrote of Skiddaw,
" and the bleak air atop of it, with a prospect of moun-
tains all about and about, making you giddy ; and then,
Scotland afar off, and the border countries, so famous
in song and ballad ! It is a day that will stand out
like a mountain, I am sure, in my life!" "Bleak"
the air is indeed "atop," — exposed as the summit is
to the seawinds. If the stranger desires to take a
leisurely view, he must trouble his guide or his pony
with a railway wrapper, or something of the sort, to
enable him to stand his ground. The descent may be
made, for the sake of variety, by a road through
Milbeck and the pretty village of Applethwaite ; or by
descending the north side of the mountain, and coming
out upon the road, just north of the village of Bassen-
thwaite.

FIFTH TOUR.

ASCENT OE SADDLEBACK.

An expedition to Saddleback affords a good opportu-
nity for visiting the Druids' Temple, a mile and a-half
from Keswick, This very well-preserved memorial of
antiquity stands in a field, near the entrance of St.
John's Yale. The stones, forty-eight in number, form
an oval ; and there is a peculiarity in this case which
distinguishes it from all other Druidical monuments
extant in England. On the eastern side, within the
circle, there is a small recess formed by ten stones,
making an oblong square. As Southey observed, the
spot is the most commanding that could be chosen,
short of a mountain side ; and it is indeed nearly sur-
rounded by mountains, which it recognises in their true
forms, from the levels, — with the exception of the plain
towards Penrith, — being sunk out of view. The old
legend about the last human sacrifice of the Druids
may belong to any of the monuments of that age in
the district ; and it is probably claimed for them all.
According to that old story ; when some people settled
in a clearing of the woods, beside a river, somewhere to
the south of the district, the priests took up their
station further north, among the mountains, where
there were plenty of stones fit and ready for their
temple. After a time, a fever laid waste the lower

LEGEND. 95

settlement; and the oracle demanded a sacrifice to
appease the divine wrath. The lot fell on a young girl
who was betrothed : and, on an appointed day, she was
conveyed, with all the ceremonies, to the temple. A
small hut of wickerwork, like a large beehive, was found
set up on the western side of the temple. The girl was
led into the circle, and placed in the midst, while the
dedication proceeded. We are even told that she was
adorned with an oak garland, and held mistletoe in her
hand. The whole population was looking on from a
distance: but it must have been within reasonable
reach, as every one was required to contribute a stick to
the fire. The wretched lover saw all from afar ; and
he daringly resolved, — let the god be as wrathful as he
pleased, — not to contribute so much as a twig to the
burning of his beloved. She was seen to enter the
door, which was next the circle ; and then the priest
closed it up, and heaped the dried leaves and sticks that
were brought all round the hut. The arch-druid mean-
time was procuring fire from two pieces of wood. He
succeeded, and set the pile in a blaze. In this moment
of desperation, the lover saw every mountain round
give forth a great cataract ; and all the floods gushed
to the temple as to a centre, and made an island of the
little hut, — returning when they had extinguished the
fire. The victim came forth, with not a hair singed,
and not a leaf of her garland withered. The arch-
druid, skilled to interpret thunder, seems to have under-
stood in this case the voice of waters ; for he announced
that, henceforth, the god would have no more human
sacrifices. Any resident who is sufficiently familar with

96 DEUIDICAL CIKCLES.

the country people to get them to speak their minds
fully, will find that they still hold to the notion that
nobody can count the druid stones correctly ; and also
that a treasure is buried under the largest stone. As
to the first, — there are, in most such circles, some
smaller stones cropping out of the ground which some
visitors will, and others will not, include among those
of the circle. We ourselves counted Long Meg and
her daughters, near Penrith, many times before making
out the prescribed sixty-seven, with any certainty. As
for the treasure, can any one prove that it is not there ?
Nobody wants to undermine the stone, to get rid of the
tradition : so our neighbours are like the Arabs at
Petra, who have been shooting with sling, bow, and
matchlock, for a thousand years, at the urn, where they
are sure Pharaoh's treasure is, — in its niche in the rock
temple. For a thousand years, they have failed to
bring it down, and are determined that no European
shall. And no European would dismantle the temple
to disabuse the Arabs ; and so the tradition and the urn
stand untouched. So may it be for ages to come with
Long Meg, and the giant of eight tons' weight that
presides over the Keswick circle !

The ascent of Saddleback may begin behind Threl-
keld, up a path which the villagers will point out : but
an easier way is, to diverge from the main road some
way further on, by the road to Hesket, near the village
of Scales. The hill-side path is to be taken which leads
along Souter Fell, by the side of the stream which
descends from Scales tarn. This part is the very home
of superstition and romance. This Souter, or Soutra

SOUTEE FELL GHOSTS. 97

Fell, is the mountain on which ghosts appeared in
myriads, at intervals during ten years of the last
century, — presenting precisely the same appearances
to twenty-six chosen witnesses, and to all the inhabi-
tants of all the cottages within view of the mountain ;
and for a space of two hours and a-half at one time —
the spectral show being then closed by darkness. The
mountain is full of precipices which defy all marching
of bodies of men ; and the north and west sides present
a sheer perpendicular of 900 feet. On Midsummer
eve, 1735, a farm-servant of Mr. Lancaster's, half-a-mile
from the mountain, saw the eastern side of the summit
covered with troops, which pursued their onward march
for an hour. They came, in distinct bodies, from an
eminence in the north end, and disappeared in a niche
in the summit. When the poor fellow told this tale,
he was insulted on all hands ; as original observers
usually are when they see anything wonderful. Two
years after, also on a Midsummer eve, Mr. Lancaster saw
some men there, apparently following their horses, as if
they had returned from hunting. He thought nothing
of this ; but he happened to look up again ten minutes
after, and saw the figures now mounted, and followed
by an interminable array of troops, five abreast, march-
ing from the eminence and over the cleft, as before.
All the family saw this, and the manoeuvres of the
force, as each company was kept in order by a mounted
officer who galloped this way and that. As the shades
of twilight came on, the discipline appeared to relax,
and the troops intermingled, and rode at unequal paces,
till all was lost in darkness. Now, of course, all the

98 SOIITEK TELL GHOSTS.

Lancasters were insulted, as their servant had been:
but their justification was not long delayed. On the
Midsummer eve of the fearful 1745, twenty-six persons,
expressly summoned by the family, saw all that had
been seen before, and more. Carriages were now inter-
spersed with the troops ; and every body knew that no
carriages ever had been, or could be, on the summit of
Souter Fell. The multitude was beyond imagination ;
for the troops filled a space of half-a-mile, and marched
quickly till night hid them, — still marching. There
was nothing vaporous or indistinct about the appearance
of these spectres. So real did they seem that some of
the people went up, the next morning, to look for the
hoof-marks of the horses ; and awful it was to them to
find not one foot-print on heather or grass. The
witnesses attested the whole story on oath before a
magistrate ; and fearful were the expectations held by
the whole country-side about the coming events of the
Scotch rebellion. It now came out that two other
persons had seen something of the sort in the interval,
viz., in 1743, — but had concealed it to escape the
insults to which their neighbours were subjected. Mr.
Wren, of Wilton Hall, and his farm-servant, saw, one
summer evening, a man and a dog on the mountain,
pursuing some horses along a place so steep that a horse
could hardly, by any possibility, keep a footing on it.
Their speed was prodigious, and their disappearance at
the south end of the fell so rapid, that Mr. Wren and
the servant went up, the next morning, to find the
body of the man who must have been killed. Of man,
horse, or dog, they found not a trace : and they came

scales tar:*. 99

down, and held their tongues. When they did speak,
they fared not much the better for having twenty-six
sworn comrades in their disgrace. As for the explana-
tion, — the Editor of the Lonsdale Magazine declared
(Yol. ii. p. 313.) that it was discovered that on that
Midsummer eve of 1745, the rebels were " exercising
on the western coast of Scotland, whose movements
had been reflected by some transparent vapour, simi-
lar to the Fata Morgana." This is not much in
the way of explanation : but it is, as far as we know,
all that can be had at present. The facts, however,
brought out a good many more ; as the spectral march
of the same kind seen in Leicestershire in 1707 : and
the tradition of the tramp of armies over Helvellyn,
on the eve of the battle of Marston Moor. And now
the tourist may proceed, — looking for ghosts, if he
pleases, on Souter Fell.

Here, too, lies another wonder, — that tarn (Scales
Tarn) which is said to reflect the stars at noonday, —
a marvel which we by no means undertake to avouch.
The tarn is so situated at the foot of a vast precipice,
and so buried among crags, that the sun never reaches
it, except through a crevice in early morning. This
dark water is one of the attractions which bring
strangers to this mountain ; though the easy ascent of
Skiddaw better suits the greater number. Another
attraction here is the deeper solitude of the recesses
of old Blencathra, — as Saddleback should still be
called. Another is the view of Derwent Water from
the summit. Southey says, " Derwent Water, as seen
from the top of Saddleback, is one of the finest moun-

100 ASCEKT.

tain scenes in the country." That summit is called
Linthwaite Fell ; and there the guide will point out,
better than we can do, the various objects, — seas,
islands, castles in their woods, and cities of the plain ;
mountains, far and near ; shores, like the boundaries of an
estate, and lakes like its fish-ponds. People who made
the ascent sixty years since have left a terrifying ac-
count of its dangers, such as now excites a smile among
energetic tourists. One gentleman was so "astonished,"
near the outlet, "with the different appearance of
objects in the valley beneath," that he chose to stay
behind. Another of the four presently "wished to lose
blood and return:" but he was coaxed onwards to the
tarn, where, however, he could see no stars, though it
was noonday. Mr. Green, with his companion Mr.
Otley, was among the earlier adventurers who stood on
the highest ridge. He was so accurate an observer
that his descriptions of unfrequented and unalterable
places will never be antiquated. " From Linthwaite
Pike," he says, " on soft green turf, we descended
steeply, first southward, and then in an easterly direc-
tion to the Tarn ; a beautiful circular piece of trans-
parent water, with a well-defined shore. Here we
found ourselves engulphed in a basin of steeps, having
Tarn Crag on the north, the rocks falling from Sharp
Edge on the east, and on the west, the soft turf on
which we had made our downward progress. These
side-grounds, in pleasant grassy banks, verge to the
stream issuing from the lake, whence there is a charming
opening to the town of Penrith ; and Cross Fell seen
in extreme distance. Wishing to vary our line in

SHARP EDGE. 101

returning to the place we had left, we crossed the
stream, and commenced a steep ascent at the foot of
Sharp Edge. We had not gone far before we were
aware that our journey would be attended with perils :
the passage gradually grew narrower, and the declivity
on each hand awfully precipitous. From walking erect,
we were reduced to the necessity either of bestriding the
ridge, or of moving on one of its sides, with our hands
lying over the top, as a security against tumbling
into the tarn on the left, or into a frightful gully on
the right, — both of immense depth. Sometimes we
thought it prudent to return ; but that seemed un-
manly, and we proceeded; thinking with Shakspere
that ' dangers retreat when boldly they're confronted.'
Mr. Otley was the leader, who, on gaining steady
footing, looked back on the writer, whom he perceived
viewing at leisure from his saddle the remainder of his
upward course." On better ground they had a retros-
pect on Sharp Edge, — which is the narrowest ridge
on Saddleback, or any other north-of-England moun-
tain. In places, its top is composed of loose stones
and earth ; and, the stepping on the sides being as
faithless as the top, the Sharp Edge expedition has less
of safety in it than singularity.

And now, — those who, after this, like to go there,
know what they have to expect.

The other mountain-lake, lying north-east of this,
and called Bowscale Tarn, is also reputed to reflect the
stars at noonday, but under so many conditions, that
it will be a wonder if any body ever has the luck to see
them. It is in this tarn that, in the belief of the

a 2

102 DESCENT.

country people, there are two fish which cannot
die ; — the same fish that used to wait on the pleasure
of the good Lord Clifford when, in his shepherd days,
he learned mathematics from the stars upon the moun-
tain. The traveller can return either by the way he
came ; or by Knott Crag, down upon Threlkeld ; or by
following the course of the Grlenderaterra, along the
skirts of Saddleback and Skiddaw, — coming out upon
the Keswick road about a mile from Threlkeld. This
last mode of descent is considered by far the most
interesting.

Whenever he passes that bit of road to Keswick, he
will be more and more struck with the advantages of
the situation of the mansion on Greta Bank, with its
airy position, its walks through the woods, with the
Greta dashing below ; and afar, the uninterrupted view
of the whole of Derwentwater basin and surrounding
mountains. The tenth commandment is, we imagine,
oftener broken there than in most places.

PAET III.

CIRCUIT OF THE LAKE DISTRICT.

FIRST

TOUR.

MILES.

MILES,

Keswick to Threlkeld

3 Moor End

7 Gowbarrow Park ...

5 Patterdale

3 High Hartsop

7 Ambleside

... 4

7

... 14

19
... 22

29

There is a circuit by which the chief objects of the
Lake District can be seen in four days, even by ladies
and elderly persons. We will describe this route,
interpolating some directions for stout pedestrians
who can undertake more than the majority of tourists.

The starting-point of this tour may be either Kes-
wick or Ambleside, according as the traveller enters
the district from the north or the south. Supposing
it to be Keswick, the first day's journey is by Matter-
dale to Ullswater, and by the Kirkstone Pass to
Ambleside.

g3

104 MATTERDALE.

The distance from Keswick to Patterdale is nine-
teen miles ; and from Patterdale to Ambleside ten
more ; so that the journey should begin in good time,
if the scenery is to be duly enjoyed. The first part of
the road, as far as Threlkeld, has been abundantly
described. It then becomes wild and bleak, while
commanding noble distant views of the Keswick
mountains, and of the saddle-shaped aspect of Old
Blencathra. Mell Fell, the ugliest of hills, — like a
tumulus planted all over with larch, grows larger as
the traveller proceeds, till he finds he is to make a
sharp turn to the right, and pass directly under it.
Judging from our own experience, we should say that
this part of the journey is always broiling hot or bit-
terly cold. A bleak high-lying tract it certainly is,
where the old monks no doubt suffered much and often
in their expeditions. Their paternosters said among
the perils of Ulls water, and their Ave Marys here are
supposed to have given the names of Patterdale and
Matterdale, which become more interesting as soon as
their origin is known. From Matterdale, the road
drops down upon Gowbarrow Park, already described
at p. 38. It is a usual practice to send on the carriage
to the Patterdale Inn, (weather permitting) where the
driver will order dinner to be ready in two hours or so :
and then the traveller will explore the park, and see
Ara Force, and walk the remaining four miles, —
enjoying as he goes, the very finest views of Ullswater.

An ordinary party of travellers will be content with
the road to Ambleside, to close the labours of the day.
But young men will choose, if there be daylight left,

* Kki&

ilN

HATS WATEE. 105

to diverge to the left at Hartsop, to see Hays "Water.
The track passes among the farms, and beside the beck,
between the mountains, and up till the source is
reached, — the secluded tarn called Hays Water. This
little lake is a mile and a-half from the main road, and
the ascent is rather steep. It is the delight of the
angler, because it is also the delight of the trout. It
is overhung by High Street ; so that perhaps the
Roman eagles, as well as the native birds of the rocks,
have cast their shadows upon its surface. Not far off
lies Angle Tarn, on the southern end of Place Fell.
Both these tarns send their brooks down, to swell the
stream from Brothers' Water, which is itself supplied
from the busy, noisy beck that descends the Kirkstone
Pass ; and the whole, united with a tributary from
Deepdale, form the clear brown stream which winds
through Patterdale, and empties itself into Ullswater.
Brothers' Water derives its name from the accident —
which is said to have happened twice, — of brothers
being lost in it, in the attempt of one to save the other.
On one of the two occasions, the accident happened
through the breaking of the ice, when the brothers
were making a venturesome short cut across it to
church. — No persuasion of ours can be necessary to
induce any traveller to visit Deepdale, if he has time.
Its aspect from the road is most tempting ; — only, it
cannot, like the walk to Hays Water, be accomplished,
in the longest summer day, in addition to the route
given for the day.

An account of Ambleside will be found at p.p. 41, 55.

SECOND TOUR.

AMBLESIDE TO STKANDS AND WAST WATEE.

MILES. MILES.

Ambleside to Coniston ■■• 9

9 Broughton 18

4| Ulpha Kirk 22^

4 Stanley Ghyll 26|

4 Santon Bridge 30^

2 Strands 32*

miles. miles.
Ambleside to Skelwith Bridge 3

1 Colwith Bridge 4

2i Fell Foot 6£

H Top of Wrvnose 8

2$ Cockley Beck 10£

3 Bridge over the Esk 13£

2^ Stanley Ghyll 16

4 Santon Bridge 20

2 Strands 22

There are two ways, meeting at Stanley Grhyll, —
(the grand waterfall of the district,) — which are about
equally beautiful, though entirely unlike ; but the
shorter one, by Cockley Beck, is fit only for good
walkers, in fair weather. There is no reason why ladies
should not achieve it, by taking ponies, or a car, which
they will leave in the steeper parts. We will suppose,
in order to describe both, that the party divides, — the
young men going sixteen miles on foot, by the moun-
tains to Stanley Grhyll, and meeting there the carriage
party, who have made a circuit of about ten miles
longer, and will take up the pedestrians for the remain-
ing six miles to Strands.

The drive to Coniston has been already described.

THE DTJDDOl*. 107

The road now to be followed, passes through Coniston
and Torver, and then diverges from the lake, overlook-
ing a region in which the hills sink into heathery
undulations, which again subside into a wide alluvion,
which stretches to the estuary. When it is high
water, the scene is fine : but the vast reaches of sand at
low water are dreary. The coast railway is seen
crossing the estuary, — its cobweb tracery showing
well against the sand or the water. Near at hand
Brought on Tower rises from the woods above the little
town : but there is nothing else to detain the eye.
Tourists who desire to ascend Blackcombe, should do
it from hence, — the summit being only six miles from
Broughton ; and guides are here to be procured.
Wordsworth says of this mountain that " its base
covers a much greater extent of ground than any
other mountain in those parts ; and, from its situation,
the summit commands a more extensive view than
any other point in Britain." One would think that
this testimony, and Col. Mudge's information that,
when residing on Blackcombe for surveying purposes,
he more than once saw Ireland before sunrise, would
bring strangers to try their luck in seeing Scotland,
Staffordshire, and Ireland, from the same point : but
the mountain lies out of the ordinary track of tourists,
and very few visit it.

The next portion of the drive is charming ; — up the
valley of the Duddon. The series of sonnets that
Wordsworth has given us may have led strangers to
expect too much : but to an unprepossessed eye the
valley must appear lovely. Leaving the Bootle road

108 ttlpha kibe:.

and the bridge to the left, the road ascends so steeply
that the travellers will get out and walk ; and many a
time will they turn to the sea- view, and the wooded
slopes on the way to Bootle, and the rocks, dressed
with wild flowers, that enclose the road. Then comes
a common covered with fern, in which the greenest of
paths form a net-work : and far below dashes the brown
river, between rocky banks ; and Duddon Grove, with
its conservatories and beautiful grounds and green
clearings, is seen in the hollow of the vale. Four miles
from Broughton, the bridge at Ulpha Kirk spans the
river, and discloses a beautiful view, up and down, One
thing which the traveller is always expected to remark
is the strange holes (called pots) worn by the waters in
the rocks, and the rounding of the edges of the boul-
ders and shelves in the channel. Ulpha Kirk is a mere
hamlet ; but there is a little inn at which the horses
can rest if the party are disposed for a walk to the
scene of Robert Walker's life and labours. Ulpha Kirk
itself is one of the primitive places where the old man-
ners of the district may yet be traced more clearly than
in most road-side settlements. The people still think it
no sin to do their farm work on Sundays, when the
weather, — so precarious here, — is favourable ; and the
familiar style of " the priest" in these parts makes the
transition from work to worship very natural. Some
time since there was a blind "priest" settled there.
One Sunday morning, the bell rang before the people
were all ready; and especially the stoutest farmer in
the neighbourhood, who, detained by some cow, pig, or
sheep, entered the church last of all, " thunnerin' down

ROBERT WALKER'S CHURCH. 109

the aisle." "Wha's comin' now?" asked the blind
priest ; and, being informed by the clerk that it was

John T , he inquired further, " a-foot or a-horse-

back ? " Odd sprinklings of learning are found in these
by-places, as in Scotland. Some students staying at
this same little inn, and wanting to settle their account,
wrote a note in Latin to the landlord, asking for the
bill, and sent it by the girl who waited. Mr. Gunson,
the landlord, (from whom the present landlord is
descended) immediately sent in the bill in Greek. It
was too much for the students, who where obliged to
ask to have it in English. There was a " heigh lamed"
woman, not far from hence, who married a farmer on
the moor. When every body was lamenting the hard
times, she declared that, for her part, she should be
contented if she could obtain food and raiment ; where-
upon her husband rebuked her presumption. " Thoo
fule," said he : " thoo dusn't think thoo'st to hev
mare than other folk. J'se content wi' meeat and
claes."

Newfield Church, in Seathwaite, is the place where
Robert Walker, called " the Wonderful," exercised his
office for sixty years. The grey farmsteads stand
under their sycamores, dispersed in the vale, and up
the slope which meets the Walna Scar track from
Coniston. Rocky and wooded knolls diversify the
dale ; and the full beck runs down to join the Duddon,
for which it is often mistaken : but the Duddon is
unseen here, so deep lies its channel among the rocks.
The church is little loftier or larger than the houses
near. But for the bell, the traveller would hardly

110 THE PABSONAGE.

have noticed it for a church on approaching : but when
he has reached it, there is the porch, and the little
graveyard, with a few tombs, and the spreading yew,
encircled by the seat of stones and turf, where the
early comers sit and rest till the bell calls them in.
A little dial, on a whitened post in the middle of the
enclosure, tells the time to the neighbours who have
no clocks. Just outside the wall is a white cottage, so
humble that the stranger thinks it cannot be the par-
sonage: yet the climbing roses and glittering ever-
greens, and clear lattices, and pure uncracked walls,
look as if it might be. He walks slowly past the
porch, and sees some one who tells him that it is
indeed Kobert Walker's dwelling, and courteously in-
vites him in to see the scene of those life-long chari-
ties. Here it was that the distant parishioners were
fed on Sundays with broth, for which the whole week's
supply of meat was freely bestowed. Hither it was
that in winter he sent the benumbed children, in com-
panies, from the school in the church, to warm them-
selves at the single household fire, while he sat by the
altar all the school hours, keeping warmth in him by
the exercise of the spinning wheel. But the story is
too well known, as it stands in Wordsworth's works,
to need further celebration here : too well known, we
should think, not to induce tourists to walk two miles
from Ulpha Kirk and back again, to visit the homes,
in life and in death, of Robert Walker. There are
changes even here. There is a school-house, warmer
in winter than the church : and there is a decline in
the number of attendants at church. The Wesleyan

BIRKER MOOR. Ill

chapel at Ulpha has drawn away some ; and the taste
for Sunday diversion, which has found its way over
the hills from Coniston, estranges more ; and the
descendant and successor of the good pastor says
that "the old stocks are gone, and the new families
are different." Thus is the large world's experience
reflected in this little vale !

The finest part of the Duddon scenery is just here ;
and it is a charming walk by the stepping-stones,
celebrated by Wordsworth, and up and over the moor,
to descend upon Eskdale. The travelling party sees
nearly the same view, as far as the mountain is con-
cerned, by crossing at Ulpha Kirk, and getting upon
the moor that way. As soon as the enclosures are
past, up springs the lark, and freely run the rills, and
keen is the air ; and ghostlike are the mountains that
appear by degrees above the high foreground of the
moor. It is a rare pleasure in the lake district to
meet with the lark. It is only on a very wide expanse
of moorland that it can happen ; for in the valleys the
birds of prey allow no songsters. The eagles are gone
(or nearly), and few ravens are left among the crags :
but there are hawks domineering in every vale ; so
that those who would hear the lark must go out to
such places as Birker Moor. — The mountain group in
front is that which has been remarked upon before as
the centre of the region ; — the lofty nucleus whence
the vales diverge (as Wordsworth observed after
Green) "like the spokes of a wheel." Scawfell is
the highest; and the whole line, from that peak to
Hardknot, is very fine in all lights. The dark basin

112 STANLEY GHTLL.

formed in the midst of the group will be observed.
There Wast Water lies.

On the right, a rude new road at length appears,
tending towards a wooded ravine. That ravine is
Stanley Grhyll, and at its head is the waterfall. The
key may be had at the farmhouse of Dalegarth ; and
there perhaps, or in the glen, the party from Fellfoot
may be found to have arrived first.

The Stanley Grhyll fall has much the character of
Ara Force ; and the immediate surroundings may per-
haps be rivalled by other waterfalls in the district.
But the glen itself is indisputably the finest in the
region ; and it is scarcely possible to say too much of
the view from the Moss-house on the steep, which
should certainly be the first point of view. From
hence the eye commands the whole ravine, whose sides
are feathered with wood from base to ridge. The fall
is between two crags, — the one bare, the other crowned
with pines ; and if there is a slant of sunlight between
them, it gives the last finish of beauty to the chasm.
The most modern element in the scene, the young
larches, cannot offend the eye, — so well as their vivid
green is intermingled with the well-grown beech, oak,
birch, and hollies, of a soberer hue. There is a bridge
below, descried from the moss-house, which will tempt
the stranger to find his way down ; and there he will
meet with two more, by means of which he will reach
the fall. Here, among a wilderness of ferns and wild
flowers, he may sit in the cool, damp abyss, watching
the fall of waters into their clear rock-basin, till his ear
is satisfied with their dash and flow, and his eye with

SA^TON BEIDGE. 113

the everlasting quiver of the ash sprays, and swaying
of the young birches which hang over from the ledges
of the precipice. A path then leads him under the
rocks, now on this side of the stream, and now on that,
till he emerges from the ravine, and winds his way
through the hazel copse to the gate.

It may be thought that our travellers have not
leisure for much of this meditating in the glen : and it
is true that by this time, the sun is sloping westwards ;
but there are only six miles to be travelled ; and there
are no more rough mountain tracks to-day, but a good
road, — (wonderfully red) across Eskdale, and all the
way to Strands.

After crossing the Esk, and passing the little inn at
Bout, the road runs above the river, till, at the King
of Prussia Inn, it turns up out of Eskdale, and crosses
into Miterdale. Before Eskdale is lost sight of, the
opening of the valley to the sea affords a fine view,
with the little town of Eavenglass seated in the bay
where the Irt, the Mite, and the Esk flow into the sea.
Then comes a long ascent, and more views of the levels
towards the coast, — rich with woods and fields, bounded
by sands and sea. Then there is a descent, to cross the
Mite ; and another ascent ; and a descent again to
pretty Santon Bridge, on the winding Irt. Instead of
passing the bridge, however, the road to the right must
be taken, which leads, in two miles, to Strands. There
is again a long ascent : but even the tired traveller will
not complain of it, when the circle of mountains round
Wast Water opens before him. The lake is not
visible ; but there is no mistaking where it lies. To

114 STRANDS.

the right, and close at hand, the Screes present their
remarkable sweep of debris, and crests streaked with
red, grey, and vivid green, and here and there cloven
for the passage of cataracts from the brow, which
tumble down through the gloom of woods. Hawlghyll
is the largest of these ravines. Next, the Scawfell peaks
rise above the rest ; and Great End just peeps over the
shoulder of Lingmell. The cleft between Lingmell
and Great Gable is Sty Head Pass ; and to the left,
from Great Gable, are Yewbarrow and Middlefell.
The broken foreground on the common whence this
view is seen adds greatly to its beauty. Descending
upon Wastdale, the Irt is crossed ; and then the road
meets others on the green. The one to the right leads
to the lake. Sweeping round to the left, and passing
the church, — so small and domestic-looking as to
appear like a house, — the road reaches the two little
inns. They are humble but clean ; and horses can be
had, and boats for the lake.

Now we must see how the party by Fellfoot has
fared.

Their route has been described, as far as Skelwith
Bridge ; — viz : the road by Clappersgate, and the
Brathay valley, in which, however, they must keep the
right-hand road. Passing Skelwith Bridge, they had
better, if on foot, go through the gap in the wall
mentioned in p. 47, and follow the path in the wood
which will lead them out into the road at the top of
the hill. After about a mile from thence, they must
take the road to the right, which turns sharp down the
very steep hill to Colwith Bridge. Colwith Force, a

THE SHIEE STORES. 115

little further on, will make itself heard and seen. It
tumbles from a height of seventy feet, and the adjuncts
are beautiful. One mile further along the winding road
or lane, Langdale Tarn comes into view, with Wetherlam
swelling up grandly to the south of it. About a mile
further on, there is a gate from which the road parts ;
— the straight forward one leading on to Blea Tarn
and Langdale ; and the left hand one, which our travel-
lers must follow, leading to Fellfoot, and the old road
from Kendal to Whitehaven, which was the only route
before carriers' carts found their way into the region.
Fellfoot was the house of entertainment whence the
pack-horse cavalcade began the ascent, or where they
stopped to congratulate themselves on having accom-
plished the descent. The ascent of Wry nose from this
point is long and rather steep : but the views behind
become grander with every step. The travellers are
now in Westmorland; but at the three shire stones
at the top, where three counties meet, they will step
into Lancashire, in order to leave it for Cumberland at
Cockley Beck bridge, within three miles further on.
We are glad to hear that a spirited citizen of Amble-
side, to whom his neighbours are under great obli-
gations, is erecting a stone pillar at the spot where the
shire stones are, that the junction of counties may not
be overlooked (as it easily may be now) by the unob-
servant traveller. Young tourists, who happen to have
long limbs, may enjoy the privilege of being in three
counties at once, by setting their feet on two of the
three stones, and resting their hands on the third. The
stream which is now on the right, divides Lancashire

H

116 COCKLEY BECK.

from Cumberland; and Westmorland is left behind.
We know nothing wilder in the district than the
next two miles. These are the desolate hills in which
the Duddon and the Esk take their rise ; and Cockley
Beck is the spot where the Duddon must he left, to
cross over to the Esk. There is a farmhouse near
the bridge, where horses can be refreshed, when a car
comes this way, while travellers sit down by the stream
to dinner. A melancholy and harassed traveller once
came this way, whose adventure is still talked over in
Eskdale and Borrowdale. A party of tourists, among
whom were two sisters, were on the heights, intending
to cross Esk Hause into Borrowdale, and to spend the
night at Seathwaite, — the first settlement there.
Now there is, as we have seen, another Seathwaite on
the Duddon ; and mistakes frequently arise between
them. On Esk Hause, one of the ladies lost sight of her
party behind some of the rocks scattered among the
tarns there, and took a turn to the right instead of the
left. A shepherd of whom she inquired her way to
Seathwaite, pointed down to the Duddon valley; and
that way she went till she found herself at Coekley
Beck, when the old shepherd farmer who lived there
was getting his supper in the dusk of the autumn
evening. He used his best courtesy to induce her to
stay till daylight : but she was bent on going at once,
— so great would be her sister's terror. As she would
not be persuaded, the old man went with her, putting
his crust into his pocket. It was dark, and the lady
was weary ; and she was not aware what she was under-
taking. After a long struggle, she fainted. The old

ESKDALE. 117

man was afraid to leave her, lest he should not find her
again : but he succeeded in reaching the water without
losing sight of her white dress. He dipped his crust,
and brought water in his hat to bathe her face. She
revived, ate the crust, and strove onwards, — persevering
on her weary way till between one and two in the
morning, when she met her sister and a party coming
from Seathwaite in Borrowdale, with a dozen lanterns,
to search for her. She gave her guide " a one-pound
note ■;" (it was so long ago as that) and afterwards, sent
him two more. The whole family connexion of that
lady will remember for ever that there is a Seathwaite
on each side Esk Hause.

From Cockley Beck, the road climbs the side of
Hardknot, and from the highest point commands a
view of the sea. The descent into Eskdale is charming,
— the ravine to the left, in which the infant river
flows down, being beautifully wooded, and the whole
valley, with its few hamlets and many sheep, lying
open, as far as the sea. In three miles from Cockley
Beck, the bridge over the Esk is passed ; and Stanley
Ghyll is less than three miles further. Scawfell, and
all that group of summits are in view to the right,
during the descent : and to the left, Birker Force is
seen dashing over the rocks. Bout comes next, and
then Dalegarth and Stanley Ghyll, where our travellers
will join their party, after a walk of sixteen miles from
Ambleside.

h2

THIRD TOUR.

EKOM STKAKDS AND WAST WATER TO SCALE HILL INN.

ILES. MILES.

Strands to Gosforth 3

4 Calder Bridge ... 7

7 Ennerdale Bridge 14

3 Lamplugh Cross ... 17

4 Lowes Water 21

2 Scale Hill 23

The objection to seeing Wast Water early in the
morning, is that Scawfell may too probably be covered
with clouds. He does not take off his night cap so
soon as the pleasure-seekers. On this account, we
have preferred, when weather was favourable, the Fell-
foot way to Strands, as leaving time for an evening
drive to Wast dale Head, — five miles and back again.
The travellers by Broughton must no doubt wait till
the morning. Taking a cup of tea and a crust, and
ordering breakfast for two hours hence, the party may
start early for the far-famed Wast Water, — the most
solemn and imposing of all the lakes. For some way,
the road is a pretty lane, with frequent gates, till the
beautiful abode of Crook End, the seat of Stanfield
Rawson, Esq., is passed. Hawlghyll and the other
fissures are probably breathing forth their vapours,
which keep ascending all the way. There are the
Screes, with the grey and still lake, — too deep to be
ever frozen, lying at the base of their prodigious sweep.

WASTDALE HEAD. 119

The lake is three and a-half miles long, and has the
Screes for its south-eastern shore. The line of this
singular range is almost unbroken. The crags are
hidden, about a-third of the way down, by the slope of
many-coloured debris which slants right into the lake.
The summer thunderstorm and the winter tempest
sometimes shiver the loosely-compacted crags above;
and then, when a mass comes thundering down, and
splashes into the lake, the whole range feels the shock,
and slides of stones rush into the water, and clouds of
dust rise into the air.

We gave in approaching Strands, (p. 78.) the names
of the mountains as they are now seen. The road
winds pleasantly round bays and over promontories,
and the pyramidal Yewbarrow, Great Gable, which
closes in the dale, and Lingmell and the Scawfell Pikes
to the right, all explain themselves. Several brooks
and rills are passed, flowing down from the valleys;
and the stranger exclaims that he should like to
spend a whole summer here, to explore all the ways
among the mountains. Several gentlemen have spent
weeks together at Bitson's farm-house, at the
dale head, where there are clean beds, and farm-house
fare in plenty and perfection. The opening out of the
dale head, when the valley has appeared to close in
round the lake, is as wonderful a spectacle to strangers i
as any thing they see. The dale is one of those
perfect levels, shut in by lake and mountains, which
give a different impression from any other kind of
scenery in the world. The passes themselves are so
high as to leave no appearance of outlet, except by the

h 3

120 SITPEKSTITIOIS'S.

lake ; and of these passes there are but two, — the Sty
Head and Mosedale paths. The green and perfect
level, to which the monntains come down with a sheer
sweep, is partly divided off into fields ; and a few farm-
houses are set down among the fields, on the bends of
the gushing and gurgling stream. There is a chapel,
— the humblest of chapels, — with eight pews, and
three windows in three sides, and a skylight over the
pulpit. There is now a school : — a chapel and a school
and no public house ! The schoolmaster is entertained
on " whittlegate " terms: that is, he boards at the
farm-houses in turn. An old man told us that the
plan answers. " He gets them on very well," said he ;
" and particularly in the spelling. He thinks that if
they can spell, they can do all the rest." Such are the
original conclusions arrived at in Wastdale Head. It
struck us that the children were dirtier than even in
other vales, though the houses are so clean that you
might eat your dinner off the board or the floor. But
the state of children's skin and hair is owing to super-
stition, in all these dales ; and the schoolmaster is the
one who should cure the evil. A young lady who
kindly undertook to wash and dress the infant of a
sick woman, but who was not experienced in the
process, exclaimed at the end " 0 dear ! I forgot it's
• hands and arms. I must wash them." The mother
expressed great horror, and said that "if the child's
arms were washed before it was six months old,- it
would be a thief;" and, added she, pathetically, "I
would not like that." The hair and nails must not be
cut for a much longer time, for fear of a like result.

KIEKFELL. 121

The Yorkshire people put the alternative of dirty and
clean rather strongly in their proverb, " Better hev a
bairn wi a mucky feace than wash its noase off:" but
the Cumberland folk view the matter more in a moral
way, and refuse to have their children baptised into
thievery.

Kirkfell, which stands backward, between Yewbar-
row and Great Gable, was very tempting to a tourist
who explored this neighbourhood some years ago ; and
he set out to get to Buttermere by Blacksail and Scarf
Gap. After hours of walking, he struck into the deep
ravine between Kirkfell and Great Gable ; and when he
arrived within sight of a lake at night, he was con-
founded to find it still Wast Water. He had walked
completely round the mountain, instead of getting on.
We observed to a comrade that this could not have
happened if the tourist had carried a pocket-compass.
"And not having a compass," said our friend, "he
fetched one." Wastdale Head is the place whence the
ascent of Scawfell should be made : but we must defer
that ; as it would occupy the energies of a whole day.
The party will now return the way they came ; for
there is no road, of course, under the Screes, though
the shepherds venture along a perilous thread of a path
in the loose debris.

After breakfast, the travellers will address themselves
to the very different spectacle of Calder Abbey and its
environs.

After climbing the long hill from Strands, an eager
look-out will be kept for the Isle of Man: but the
most probable point for seeing it is at the top of the

122 CALDER ABBEY.

hill between Gosforth (the reddest of villages) and
Calder Bridge. Far off at sea rises the outline of its
mountains ; and when the wind is east, we have repeat-
edly seen the shadows filling the hollows of its hills.
From this eminence, the road descends through a
avenue of beech, ash, and other trees, to Calder Bridge.
Here the travellers will leave the carriage, which will
meet them within an hour at Captain Irwin's gate, on
their quitting the Abbey. They must now step into
the inn garden at the bridge, and see how beautifully
the brown waters swirl away under the red bridge and
its ivied banks, while the waving ferns incessantly
checker the sunshine. It is a mile to the Abbey,
through the churchyard, and along the bank of the
Calder, where again the most beautiful tricks of light
are seen, with brown water and its white foam, red
precipitous banks, and the greenest vegetation, with a
wood crowning all. The scene is thoroughly monastic.
There is no sound at noonday besides the gushing
water, but the woodman's axe and the shock of a falling
tree, or the whirr of the magpie, or the pipe of the
thrush : but at night the rooks on their return to roost
fill the air with their din. The ruins are presently seen,
springing sheer from the greenest turf. Relics from
the abbey are now placed beside the way; and the
modern house appears at hand. The ruins should be
approached from the front, so that the lofty pointed
arches may best disclose the long perspective behind of
grassy lawn and sombre woods. The Abbey is built of
red sandstone of the neighbourhood, now sobered down
by time (it was founded in A.D. 1134.) into the richest

CALDER ABBEY. 123

and softest tint that the eye conld desire. But little
is known of it beyond its date and the name of its
founder, Ranulph, son of the first Ranulph de Mes-
chines, a Norman noble. The church was small, as the
scanty remains show ; and the monastery, which now
looks like a continuation of the same building, could
not have contained a numerous company. From the
fragments of effigies preserved, it appears that some
eminent persons were buried here ; but who these
knights and nobles were, there is no record that can
tell, — carefully as these memorials were wrought to
secure the immortality of this world. The eye is first
fixed by the remains of the tower, from whose roofless
summit dangles the tufted ivy, and whose base is
embossed by the small lilac blossoms of the antirrhi-
rom ; but at last the great charm is found in the aisle
of clustered pillars. Almost the whole aisle is standing,
still connected by the cornice and wall which supported
the roof. The honeysuckle and ivy climb till they fall
over on the other side. There is a sombre corner
where the great ash grows over towards the tower,
making a sort of tent in the recess. There are niches
and damp cells in the conventual range. It is a small
ruin, but thoroughly beautiful : and when the stranger
looks and listens, as he stands in the green level
between woods, he will feel how well the old monks
knew how to choose their dwelling-places, and what it
must have been to the earnest and pious among these
Cistercians to pace their river bank, and to attune their
thoughts to the unceasing music of the Calder flowing
by. In the broad noon it is a fine thing to see the

124 egremoot.

shadows flung, short and sharp, on the sward, and to
catch the burnish of the ivy, and woo the shade of the
avenue : and in the evening, it is charming to see how
the last glow in the west brings out the projections and
recesses of the ruins, and how the golden moon hangs
over the eastern mass of tree tops, ready to take her
turn in disclosing the beauties of the monastic retreat.

The Abbey is carefully preserved, and liberally laid
open to strangers by Capt. Irwin. It is no fault of his
that his house, a plain substantial modern dwelling,
stands too near the ruins. He did not build it ; so
there is nothing personal in the natural wish of
strangers that it stood somewhere else.

At the gate the carriage is waiting, and it takes the
cross road, almost opposite the gate, up to Cold Fell.
The drive over that fell is commonly called dreary ; and
it is so in bad weather : but it has its charms. The
sea-view is fine, — all flecked with cloud shadows as
with islands : and the wide down sprinkled with sheep,
that look as ragged as terriers, after tearing their
fleeces with the furze and brambles with which the
swelling slopes are embossed. In a hollow, at rare
intervals, stands a farm-house, under the ordinary syca-
more canopy ; and far away, between the slopes of the
down below, the soil is cut up into fields, with woods
hanging above ; and at the mouth of the vale, between
it and the coast, stands Egremont, a little town of
1,500 inhabitants or so, and which certainly looks very
pretty from the uplands ; — and cheerful too, in spite of
its Eoman name, — (the Mount of Sorrow.) It is
distinguished by Eoman traditions. It was at the

THE DE LACYS. 125

gateway of Egremont Castle that the horn was hung,
in crusading days, which was twice blown by the
gallant Sir Eustace de Lacy. As the Cumberlanders
tell, Sir Eustace and his brother Hubert rode forth
together to the Holy Wars ; and Sir Eustace blew the
horn, saying to his brother, " If I fall in Palestine, do
thou return and blow this horn, and take possession ;
that Egremont may not be without a Lacy for its
Lord." In Palestine, ambition of this lordship so
took possession of Hubert, that he hired ruffians to
drown his brother in the Jordan : and the ruffians
assured him that the deed was done. Pie returned
home, and stole into the castle by night, — not daring
to sound the horn. But he soon plucked up spirit,
and drowned his remorse in revels. In the midst of a
banquet, one da}^ the horn was heard, sounding such a
blast that the echoes came back from the fells, after
startling the red deer from his covert, and the wild
boar from his drinking at the tarn. Hubert knew that
none but Eustace could or would so sound the horn :
and he fled by a postern while his brother Eustace
entered by the gate. Long after, the wretched Hubert
came to ask forgiveness from his brother ; and having
obtained it, retired to a convent, where he practised
penance until he died. The ruins of this castle stand
on an eminence to the west of the town.

Before descending to Ennerdale Bridge, the outline
of the Scotch mountains may be sometimes seen.
Few travellers see more of this lake than in passing ;
for, while exceedingly wild, it has not the solemnity of
Wast Water ; and there is a want of wood, to give it

126 TOURISTS ASTRAY.

grace and beauty. The enclosure of the waters by
bare mountains is, however, very fine. The neighbour-
hood is full of stories, of escapes and strange adventures
of such pedestrian tourists as have explored the moun-
tains : but carriage travellers look down from the road,
and pass on.

We have mentioned the young man who spent the
whole of a previous day in walking round Kirk Fell.
Worse happened, in October, 1852, to two gentlemen
who went, with a pony, but without a guide, from
Buttermere to Wastdale Head, by Scarf Gap and
Elacksail. In Ennerdale valley, wind and rain met
them. They struggled part of the way along Black-
sail, when they became bewildered, and soon so
exhausted that they had a narrow escape with their
lives. But for a brandy flask, which one of them
carried, they could not have survived. The pony seems
to have sunk as rapidly as the men. These gentlemen
have publicly suggested the erection of some conspicu-
ous landmarks, to show the track ; and they have
uttered their warning, in corroboration of so many
others, against crossing mountains without a guide.
One of their chief difficulties was the paths being
turned into watercourses, and thereby disguised. It
was on the same track that the three Kendal young
ladies, mentioned by Mr. Green in his " Guide " (two
of whom are still living) -lost their way, from dismis-
sing their guide too soon, and actually staid all night
on the mountain, where, if it had not been fine summer
weather, they would have perished. They took a guide
over Scarf Gap, and as far as the junction of the three

STOEM OlS" THE FELL. 127

roads from Buttermere, Ennerdale, and Wastdale. The
guide left them on the right road, and with full infor-
mation as to the rest of the way. They took the
wrong side of the brook, however, and so got bewildered.
It was only four p.m., when the guide left them : but
darkness overtook them still wandering. When they
came down upon Tyson's house, early in the morning,
the family could not believe the story of their descent,
so perilous was the way they had come. One of the
ladies had, however, lost a pocket-book ; and they had
seen a dead sheep : and, somebody immediately going
up, these incidents were verified ; and the adventure
of the Kendal ladies remains one of the wonders of the
dales.

We had once an adventure in this neighbourhood,
the moral of which is, the comfort and security of
having a guide. We wanted to cross Blake Fell to
Loweswater. The distance to Scale Hill Inn was only
six miles ; the time summer ; and the track well marked
on map and mountain. If there ever was a case in
which a guide might be thought unnecessary, it was
this : but two out of the party were young strangers ;
and the third would not assume the charge of them.
The heat was excessive that day ; so we lagged behind
the guide, on the ascent, though he carried knapsack
and baskets. He was a quiet-looking elderly mountain-
eer, who appeared to walk very slowly ; but his progress
was great, compared with ours, from the uniformity and
continuity of his pace. In the worst part of the walk,
we tried the effect of following close behind him, and
putting our feet in his tracks ; and we were surprised

128 STOBM 01* THE TELL.

to find with what ease and rapidity we got on. At
first we stopped repeatedly, to sit down and drink from
the streams that crossed the track, or flowed beside it :
and during those halts, we observed that the blackness
which had for some time been appearing in the west,
now completely shrouded the sea. Next, we remarked
that while the wind still blew in our faces, — that is,
from the north-east, — the mass of western clouds was
evidently climbing the sky. The guide quietly observed
that there would be rain by and by. Next, when we
were in the middle of the wide fell, and we saw how
puzzling the network of swampy paths must be at all
times, we pointed out to one another how the light
fleeces of cloud below the black mass swept round in a
circle, following each other like streams in an eddy.
Soon, the dark mass came driving up at such, a rate
that it was clear we should not finish our walk in good
weather. The dense mist was presently upon us. On
looking behind, to watch its rate of advance, we saw a
few flashes of lightning burst from it. The thunder
had for some time been growling afar, almost inces-
santly. The moment before the explosion of the storm
was as like a dream as a waking state can be. We
were walking on wild ground, now ascending, now
descending ; a deep tarn (Floutern Tarn) on our right
hand, our feet treading on slippery rushes, or still more
slippery grass : the air was dark, as during an eclipse ;
and heavy mists drove past from behind, just at the
level of our heads, and sinking every moment ; while
before us, and far far below us — down as in a different
world — lay Buttermere and the neighbouring vales

STOEM OK" THE FELL. 129

sleeping in the calmest sunshine. The contrast was
singular — of that warm picture, with its yellow lights
and soft blue shadows, with the turbulence and chill
and gloom of the station from which we viewed it.
We had but a moment to look at it ; for not only did
the clouds sink before our eyes, but the wind scudded
round to the opposite point of the compass, throwing
one after another of us flat as it passed. Within a few
minutes, one of us had six falls, from the force of the
wind, and the treachery of the ground, — now, in a trice,
a medley of small streams. It was impossible to stop
the guide, for a moment's breath. In the roar of the
blast, and crash of the thunder, and pelt of the hail, one
might as well have spoken to the elements : so it was
necessary for us all to keep up our pace, that he might
not stride away from us entirely. Through stumblings
and slidings innumerable, we did this, — the lightning
playing about our faces the while, like a will-o'-the-wisp
on the face of a bog. The hail and rain had drenched
us to the skin in three minutes. The first hailstones
reached the skin. They were driven in at every open-
ing of our clothes; they cut our necks behind, and
filled our shoes. Our hats and bonnets were imme-
diately soaked through, and every body's hair wringing
wet. The thunder seemed to roll on our very skulls.
In this weather we went plunging on for four miles,
through spungy bogs, turbid streams, whose bridges of
stones were hidden in the rushing waters ; or by narrow
pathways, each one of which was converted by the
storm into an impetuous brook. When we had
descended into a region where we could hear ourselves
speak, we congratulated one another on our prudence

130 LOWES WATER.

in having engaged a guide. Without him, how should
we have known the path from the brook, or have
guessed where we might ford the streams, when the
bridges were out of sight ? Two horses, we afterwards
heard, were killed on the same fell in that storm : and
we should never have come down, we were persuaded,
if we had been left to Wfftider by ourselves.

Lamplugh Cross is three miles from Ennerdale
Bridge ; and thence the road begins to descend, and
for the most part continues descending for the remain-
ing six miles to Scale Hill Inn. On leaving the com-
mon, from which the Solway and Scotch mountains are
visible, and turning down through a gate upon Lowes
Water, the view of the central mountain group is again
very fine. Lowes Water is one of the out-lying lakes,
and its lower end is tame accordingly : but it is only a
mile long ; and the peaks congregate finely about its
head. The circuit of Lowes Water, (seven miles) is a
charming morning's walk. There is a prosperous look
about the homesteads there, and a richness about the
meadows which smacks of the level country, which, in
the shape of the Vale of Lorton, is near at hand. On
the road between Lowes Water and the inn at Scale
Hill, the great peaks of the central group are all
visible, from Grassmoor to Great Gable, and from Scaw-
fell round to Melbreak ; while the prominent Eanner-
dale Knot projects into Crummock Lake in front ; and
Honister Crag peeps over from behind. As the reader
knows, the whole group may be studied from Scale
Hill ; and to the utmost advantage from the Station.
(p. 86.) At Scale Hill Inn the travellers may close in
comfort the third day of their circuit.

FOURTH TOUR.

FROM SCALE HILL, BY HONISTER CRAG-, TO KESWICK.
MILES. MILES.

Scale Hill to Buttermere 4

2 Gatesgarth 6

2 Honister Crag 8

2 Seatoller 10

2 Rosthwaite 12

3 Lodore 15

3 Keswick 18

The road as far as Buttermere has been described
(p. 84). But the attention of the traveller has hardly
been sufficiently called to the stormy character of this
central district, as shown by the aspect of the moun-
tains. No where else are they so scarred with weather
marks, or so diversified in colouring from new rents
in the soil. Long sweeps of orange and grey stones
descend to Crummock Water ; and above, there are
large hollows, like craters, filled now with deep blue
shadows, and now with tumbling white mists, above
which yellow or purple peaks change their hue with
every hour of the day, or variation of the sky. The
bare, hot-looking debris on the Melbreak side, the
chasms in the rocks, and the sudden swellings of the
waters, tell of turbulence in all seasons. The most
tremendous waterspout remembered in the region of
the lakes, descended the ravine between Grassmoor
and Whiteside, in 1760. It swept the whole side of
Grassmoor at midnight, and carried down everything
that was lying loose all through the vale below, and

I

132 GftASSMOOR FLOOD.

over a piece of arable land at the entrance, where it
actually peeled the whole surface, carrying away the
soil and the trees, and leaving the rocky substratum
completely bare. The soil was many feet deep, and
the trees fullgrown. Then it laid down what it
brought, covering ten acres with the rubbish. By
the channel left, it appears that the flood must have
been five or six yards deep, and a hundred yards wide.
Among other pranks, it rooted up a solid stone cause-
way, which was supported by an embankment appa-
rently as strong as the neighbouring hills. The flood
not only swept away the whole work, but scooped out
the entire line for its own channel. The village of
Brackenthwaite, which stood directly in its course, was
saved by being built on a stone platform, — a circum-
stance unknown to the inhabitants till they now saw
themselves left safe on a promontory, while the soft
soil was swept away from beside their very doors,
leaving a chasm where the flood had been turned aside
by the resistance of their rock. The end of the matter
was, that the flood poured into the Cocker, which rose
so as to lay the whole south-western plain under water
for a considerable time.

On leaving Buttermere, and passing the very small
chapel (which yet is " quite big" compared with the
former one on the same site) the road up Buttermere
Haws to Newlands is seen ascending to the left. The
Lake of Buttermere is only a mile and a-quarter in
length, and a little more than half-a-mile in breadth.
The mountains which enclose it have been already
named (p. 84.) The torrent that will be observed

■a

en 3

O £
o

HONISTER CRAG. 133

flowing down the steep into the lake is called (as others
in the district are) Sour milk Ghyll ; and it issues from
Bleaberry, or Burtness Tarn, on the side of Bed Pike.
The pretty domain near the margin of the lake is
Hasness (General Benson's.) Then comes Gatesgarth,
— the farmstead whence the road to Scarf Gap is taken,
by which, as we have told, London gentlemen and
Kendal ladies have run into such extreme danger.
From Gatesgarth begins one of the wildest bits of road
in the district. It climbs Buttermere Yale, by an
ascent at first gradual, and latterly extremely steep,
to the base of Honister Crag. It is a vast stony
valley, where sheep and their folds, and a quarry man's
hut here and there, are the only signs of civilization.
There are no bridges over the stream (the infant
Cocker), which must be crossed many times ; and
where there are no stepping-stones, the pedestrian
must wade. Every body walks up the last reaches
of the ascent, ■ — so steep and stony is the narrow road,
and so formidable its unfenced state. The dark, stu-
pendous, almost perpendicular, Honister Crag frowns
above ; and as the traveller, already at a considerable
height, looks up at the quarrymen in the slate quarries
near the summit, it almost takes his breath away
to see them hanging like summer spiders quivering
from the eaves of a house.

These quarrymen are a hardy race, capable of feats
of strength which are now rarely heard of elsewhere.
No heavily-armed knight, who ever came here to meet
the Scot (and there were such encounters on this spot
in the ancient border wars) carried a greater weight, or

i2

134 SLATE QTJAKRYME^.

did more wonders in a day than these fine fellows.
The best slate of Honister Crag is found near the top :
and there, many hundred feet aloft, may be seen
(by good eyes) the slate-built hovels of some of the
quarrymen, while others ascend and descend many
times between morning and night. Now the men
come leaping down with their trucks at a speed which
appears appalling to strangers. Formerly, the slate was
brought down on hurdles, on men's backs : and the
practice is still continued in some remote quarries,
where the expense of conveyance by carts would be too
great, or the roads do not admit of it. Nearly forty
years ago there was a man named Joseph Clark at
Honister, who made seventeen journeys, (including
seventeen miles of climbing up and scrambling down,)
in one day, bringing down 10,880 pounds of slate. In
ascending he carried the hurdle, weighing eighty
pounds ; and in descending, he brought each time 640
pounds of slate. At another time he carried, in three
successive journeys, 1,280 pounds each time. His
greatest day's work was bringing 11,771 pounds; in
how many journeys it is not remembered : but in
fewer than seventeen. He lived at Stonethwaite, three
miles from his place of work. His toils did not appear
to injure him : and he declared that he suffered only
from thirst. It was believed in his day that there was
scarcely another man in the kingdom capable of sus-
taining such labour for a course of years.

In some places where the slate is closely compacted,
and presents endways and perpendicular surface, the
quarryman sets about his work as if he were going

DESCENT INTO BORROWDALE. 135

after eagle's eggs. His comrades let him down by a
rope from the precipice ; and he tries for a footing on
some ledge, where he may drive in wedges. The diffi-
culty of this, where much of his strength must be
employed in keeping his footing, may be conceived :
and a great length of time must be occupied in loosen-
ing masses large enough to bear the fall without being
dashed into useless pieces. But, generally speaking,
the methods are improved, and the quarries made
accessible by tracks admitting of the passage of strong
carts. Still, the detaching of the slate, and the loading
and conducting the carts, are laborious work enough to
require and train a very athletic order of men. In
various parts of the district, the scene is marked by
mountains of debris, above or within which yawn black
recesses in the mountain side, where the summer thun-
ders echo, and the winter storms send down formidable
slides into the vales below.

At the turn under Honister Crag, the vales behind
disappear, and Borrowdale begins to open upon the
eye ; — at first in the form of a triangular bit of green
level far below among the hills. By degrees, the over-
lapping mountains part asunder, and disclose more
farmsteads and broader levels, till the fences are reached.
Thence, it is a steep and rough descent upon Seatoller,
by the side of the plunging and roaring stream, and its
canopy of trees. Passing through the farm-yard at
Seatoller, the travellers find themselves in Borrowdale,
with only two miles more to Rosthwaite, (p. 77.) and
eight to Keswick, and an excellent road all the way.

Thus have our travellers, in the space of four days,

i 3

136 NATURAL EMBELLISHMENT.

seen the greater part of the lakes and mountains. If
they have used their eyes and minds, they must have
observed something of the material, moral, and social
changes going on perpetually in this once secluded
corner of the United Kingdom.

As for the material changes,' — those wrought in
silence by Nature are of the same quiet, gradual,
inevitable kind that have been going on ever since the
mountains were upreared. She disintegrates the rocks,
and now and then sends down masses thundering along
the ravines, to bridge over a chasm, or make a new islet
in a pool. She sows her seeds in crevices, or on little
projections, so that the bare face of the precipice
becomes feathered with the rowan and the birch : and
thus, ere long, motion is produced by the passing
winds, in a scene where ail once appeared rigid as a
mine. She draws her carpet of verdure gradually up
the bare slopes, where she has deposited earth to sus-
tain the vegetation. She is for ever covering with her
exquisite mosses and ferns every spot which has been
left unsightly, till nothing appears that can offend the
human eye, within a whole circle of hills. She even
silently rebukes and repairs the false taste of unedu-
cated man. If he makes his dwelling of too glaring a
white, she tempers it with weatherstains : if he indo-
lently leaves the stone walls and blue slates unrelieved
by any neighbouring vegetation, she supplies the need-
ful screen by bringing out tufts of delicate fern in the
crevices, and springing coppice on the nearest slopes. —
The most significant changes, however, are in the
disposition of the waters of the region. The margins

1STATUEAL CHANGES. 137

of the lakes never remain the same for half a century
together. The streams bring down soft soil inces-
santly ; and this more effectually alters the currents
than the slides of stones precipitated from the heights
by an occasional stornu By this deposit of soil new-
promontories are formed, and the margin contracts till
many a reach of waters is converted into land, inviting
tillage. The greenest levels of the smaller valleys
may be seen to have been once lakes : and no one who
looks down upon Grasmere, for instance, from the hill
field behind the Hollins, can have any doubt as to
what was once the extent of the waters. And, while
Nature is thus closing up in one direction, she is
opening in another. In some low-lying spot a tree
falls, which acts as a dam when the next rains come.
The detained waters sink, and penetrate, and loosen
the roots of other trees ; and the moisture which they
formerly absorbed goes to swell the accumulation till
the place becomes a swamp. The drowned vegetation
decays and sinks, leaving more room, till the place
becomes a pool, on whose bristling margin the snipe
arrives to rock on the bulrush, and the heron wades
in the waterlilies to feed on the fish which come
there, nobody knows how. As the waters spread, they
encounter natural dams, behind which they grow clear
and deepen, till we have a tarn among the hills, which
attracts the browsing flock, and tempts the shepherd
to build his hut near the brink. Then the wild swans
see the glittering expanse in their flight, and drop
down into it ; and the waterfowl make their nests
among the reeds. This brings the sportsman ; and a

138 THE DALES.

path is trodden over the hills ; and the spot becomes
a place of human resort. While nature is thus work-
ing transformations in her deeper retreats, the genera-
tions of men are more obviously busy elsewhere. They
build their houses, and plant their orchards on the
slopes which connect the mountains with the levels of
the valleys : they encroach upon the swamps below
them, and plough among the stones on the uplands, —
here fencing in new grounds, there throwing several
plots into one : they open slate quarries, and make
broad roads for the carriage of the produce : they
cherish the young hollies and ash, whose sprouts feed
their flocks, thus providing a compensation in the
future for the past destruction of the woods. Thus,
while the general primitive aspect of the region
remains, and its intensely rural character is little
impaired, there is perhaps scarcely a valley in the
district which looks the same from one half-century
to another.

The changes among the people proceed faster : and
some of these changes are less agreeable to contem-
plate, however well aware we ma}^ be that they are to
issue in good. Formerly, every household had nearly
all that it wanted within itself. The people thought
so little of wheaten bread that wheat was hardly to be
bought in the towns. Within the last few years, an
old man of eighty-five was fond of talking how, when
a boy, he wanted to spend his penny on wheaten
bread ; and he searched through Carlisle from morning
to evening before he could find a penny roll. The
cultivator among the hills divided his field into plots,

THE STATESMEN. 139

where lie grew barley, oats, flax, and other produce, to
meet the needs of his household. His pigs, fed partly
on acorns or beech mast, yielded good bacon and
hams ; and his sheep furnished wool for clothing. Of
course he kept cows. The women spun and wove the
wool and flax, and the lads made the wooden utensils,
baskets, fishing tackle, &c. Whatever else was needed
was obtained from the pedlars, who came their rounds
two or three times a-year, dropping in among the
little farms from over the hills. The first great
change was from the opening of carriage roads. There
was a temptation then to carry stock and grain to
fairs and markets. More grain was grown than the
household needed, and offered for sale. In a little
while the mountain farmers were sure to fail in com-
petition in the markets with dwellers in agricultural
districts. The mountaineer had no agricultural science,
and little skill ; and the decline of the fortunes of the
"statesmen," as they are locally called, has been
regular, and mournful to witness. They haunt the
fairs and markets, losing in proportion to the advance
of improvement elsewhere. On their first losses, they
began to mortgage their lands. After bearing the
burden of these mortgages till they could bear it no
longer, their children have sold the lands : and among
the shopboys, domestic servants, and labourers of the
towns, we find the names of the former yeomanry of
the district, who have parted with their lands to
strangers. Much misery intervened during the pro-
cess of transition. The farmer was tempted to lose
the remembrance of his losses in drink when he at-

140 DEAM DRINKINGL

tended the fairs and markets. The capacity of the
dalesmen in this respect, — in the quantity of strong
liquor that they can carry — is remarkable ; and they
have only too good a training. Spirits are introduced
on all occasions. At sales, of which there are many,
every spring and autumn, in the dales, and which are
attended by all the inhabitants who can go, for miles
round, — glasses of spirit are handed round among the
purchasers, all day long. The settling . of accounts at
Candlemas is attended by the same curse, — every
debtor expecting his creditor to offer him the compli-
ment of a glass of strong liquor. On that day, it is
unpleasant to ladies to be abroad, near settlements
where the Candlemas payments are making, — so many
are the drunken people whom they meet. It is com-
mon to swallow the strong liquor undiluted, in con-
siderable quantity. An old dalesman, welcome in
Ambleside for his shrewdness, simplicity and origin-
ality, appeared one day at a house where the gentle-
man was absent, but the lady at home. The lady
asked the visitor to sit down and await her husband's
return, proposing to offer him some spirit and water
meantime. He replied he wonnot be nice about t' first
part e't' offer, but as tot' watter, it could be gitten at
ony gate (way) side.

To return to the former condition of the " states-
man." The domestic manufactures he carried to town
with him, — the linen and woollen webs woven by his
wife and daughters, — would not sell, except at a loss,
in the presence of the Yorkshire and Lancashire
woollens and cottons made by machinery. He became

EAILWAYS. 141

unable to keep his children at home ; and they went
off to the manufacturing towns, leaving home yet
more cheerless — with fewer busy hands and cheerful
faces — less social spirit in the dales — greater cer-
tainty of continued loss, and more temptation to drink.
Such is the process still going on. Having reached
this pass, it is clearly best that it should go on till the
primitive population, having lost its safety of isolation
and independence, and kept its ignorance and gross-
ness, shall have given place to a new set of inhabitants,
better skilled in agriculture, and in every way more up
to the times. It is mournful enough to meet every-
where the remnants of the old families in a reduced
and discouraged condition : but if they can no longer
fill the valleys with grain, and cover the hillsides with
flocks, it is right that those who can should enter upon
their lands, and that knowledge, industry and temper-
ance should find their fair field and due reward.

We have no fear of injury, moral or economical,
from the great recent change, — the introduction of
railways. The morals of rural districts are usually
such as cannot well be made worse by any change.
Drinking and kindred vices abound wherever, in our
day, intellectual resources are absent : and nowhere is
drunkenness a more prevalent and desperate curse than
in the Lake District. Any infusion of the intelligence
and varied interests of the townspeople must, it
appears, be eminently beneficial : and the order of
workpeople brought by the railways is of a desirable
kind. And, as to the economical effect, — it cannot
but be good, considering that mental stimulus and

142 SUPERSTITIONS.

improved education are above every thing wanted.
Under the old seclusion, the material comfort of the
inhabitants had long been dwindling ; and their best
chance of recovery is clearly in the widest possible
intercourse with classes which, parallel in social rank,
are more intelligent and better informed than them-
selves.

In the pastoral valleys, the trouble occurs now and
then that the milk will not churn. Elsewhere, the
causes of this are understood, and cow and milk are
treated accordingly. Not so here. The cow is at
once concluded to be bewitched ; and it is apprehended
that she will spread the witchery to the whole dairy.
So, instead of any sensible method, the remedy tried is
depositing in the cowhouse some soil from the nearest
churchyard. As it is probable that this fails, time
is lost in other proceedings. Stirring with a stick
from the rowan tree is one of the least trouble-
some. If the cows are distempered, it is actually a
practice in many of the dales to light the " need fire."
Notice being given throughout the neighbouring
valleys, that the charm may be sent for if wanted, the
need fire is produced by rubbing two sticks together.
A great pile of combustible stuff is prepared ; and the
more smoke it can be made to give the better. When
lighted, the neighbours snatch some of the fire to
hurry home with, and light their respective piles.
The cattle, diseased and sound, are then driven through
the fire, as some of the Irish, by a remnant of pagan-
ism, charm their property, and even their children, by
passing or snatching them through the fire, making

DALE MANAGEMENT. 143

strangers ask whether Moloch is acknowledged there
still. It is said, in a certain Cumberland dale, that
when a farmer had driven all his other live property
through, he proceeded to drive his wife after the cows,
saying he should then be safe from all distempers. If
a cock crows in the night, horror and grief seize on
the household : — some one is sure to die. If people
meet a black ram, they turn their money for luck.
They occupy their minds and waste their time in the
silliest superstitions which keep true knowledge out.
For the result, look at the productions of the region,
— the torn and dirty wool, the sapless and scentless
hay, allowed first to run to seed, and then to lie soak-
ing and parching for weeks in the field, — the flour,
the meat, the butter, the cheese, — look at any of these
products in the more retired vales, and say whether
intercourse with the world outside will not be a good
thing for the fortunes of those within. To take only
the last, — the cheese. After coming from the other
grazing districts, and seeing how scientific a matter the
management of a dairy has become, and what the best
cheese is, the dairy management of Cumberland is
marvellous. Our readers cannot be expected to believe
the facts without good testimony : and we may refer
them to such local publications as the " Lonsdale
Magazine," where, (in Vol. ii. p. 13.) we are told that
the Cumberland cheese is harder than buck-horn : and
that in some places where the husbandmen wear clogs
shod with iron, it is no uncommon thing to supply the
absence of the iron with the crust of a dry cheese.
There is plenty of testimony to cheese striking fire

144 COUNTRY CHEESE.

like a flint. A soldier used a cheese paring for a flint ;
and a blacksmith at Cartmel avered that he struck
sparks from a cheese while cutting it up with an axe.
A tract of dry heather burned without intermission for
three weeks, having been kindled by sparks from a
cheese which had rolled from a cart on the road above,
and bounded from crag to crag. These things are like
the barbarism of two centuries ago. It is the railroad
that must mend them. In a generation or two, the
dale farms may yield wool that Yorkshire and Lan-
cashire, and perhaps other countries, may compete for.
The cheese may find a market, and the butter may be
in request. And at the same time, the residents may
find their health improved by the greater wholesome-
ness of their food ; and, before that, their minds will
have become stirred and enlarged by intercourse with
strangers who have, from circumstances, more vivacity
of faculty and a wider knowledge. The best, as well
as the last and greatest change in the Lake District is
that which is arising from the introduction of the
railroad.

PART IV.

PASSES.

LAN GD ALE, FKOM BOKKOWDALE, BY THE STAKE PASS. — PATH
TO EASED ALE. — PATH TO ESKHAUSE.

The top of the Stake Pass is five miles and a-half
from Rosthwaite. The last house, — Stonethwaite, —
is left behind at the end of a mile. The path follows,
and at length crosses, the stream, which is the infant
Derwent, — finding its way down from Angle Tarn,
lying high up in a recess of Bowfell. The rocky mass
of Eagle Crag rises on the left ; and further on, the
curious stone called Black Cap. At the top of the
Stake, the guide (who may be had from the inn at
Eosthwaite) will point out the great summits, — the
Scawfell Pikes, Bowfell, Hanging Knotts and Great
Grable. Half a-mile of moorland leads to the descent
on the Langdale side ; a zigzag path which keeps near
the stream that dashes down into Langdale. The

146 DUNGEON GHYLL.

traveller is under the shadow of Bowfell now, and in
the very centre of the mountains. Four miles from
the top of the Stake will bring him down to Langdale
Head; and two miles more, to the farmhouse of
Milbeck.

From that farmhouse, where travellers can make a
good meal of farmhouse fare, there is one thing to be
done without doubt ; — to visit Dungeon Grhyll. As
for the rest, this house is the point of departure in
various directions, among three of which the traveller
must make his choice.

Strangers who arrive untired generally go to the
Ghyll while their ham and eggs are preparing. The
green path on the hill side will be pointed out from
the farm : and the traveller must take care not to make
for the waterfall he sees in front. The path he wants
tends to the left, till it reaches a fence and gate, when
it turns sharp to the right ; after which there is no
possibility of losing the way. It presently joins the
stream from the force, which leads up into a deep and
dark fissure, — " Dungeon" and " Ghyll " both meaning
a fissure. There is a well secured ladder, by which
ladies easily descend to the mouth of the chasm ; and
when they have caught sight of the fall, they can
please themselves about scrambling any further. There
is the fall in its cleft, tumbling and splashing, while the
light ash, and all the vegetation besides is everlastingly
in motion from the stir of the air. Above, a bridge is
made, high aloft, by the lodgment of a block in the
chasm. The finest season for visiting this force is in a
summer afternoon. Then the sun streams in obliquely,

LAFGTDALE CHAPEL. 147

— a narrow, radiant, translucent screen ; itself lighting
up the gorge, but half concealing the projections and
' waving ferns behind it. The way in which it converts
the spray into sparks and many-coloured gerns can be
believed only by those who have seen it.

The three ways from Milbeck are first down Lang-
dale to its junction with the Brathay valley, or by
High Close to Grasmere : secondly, by Wall End to
Blea Tarn, and the Fellfoot road: and thirdly, by
Stickle Tarn, up Harrison Stickle, or over into Ease-
dale. We have little to observe about the first, —
Langdale having been described (p. 48) as seen from
High Close. Langdale Chapel is a primitive hamlet,
where the old character of the district is well pre-
served. The little chapel is a good specimen of the
churches of the vales. A few years since, the rotten
old pulpit fell, with the clergyman, Mr. Frazer, in it,
just after he had begun his sermon from the text
"Behold, I come quickly." The pulpit fell on an
elderly dame, who escaped wonderfully. Mr. Frazer,
as soon as he found his feet, congratulated her on sur-
viving such an adventure : but she tartly refused his
sympathy, saying, " If I'd been kilt, I'd been reet
sarrat, (rightly served), for you'd threatened ye'd be
comin doon sune." Near this chapel is the Thrang
Slatequarry, where the stranger should look in and see
what a mighty excavation has been caused by the
demand for this fine slate. Just beyond the chapel,
the roads part, — that which ascends to High Close
climbing the hill to the left.

As for the second road from Milbeck, — the main

K

148 TALE OE THE SOLITARY.

inducement is the valley in which Blea Tarn lies, — the
scene of those books of Wordsworth's Excursion which
relate to the Solitary. The very rough road scrambles
up from Langdale, by Wall End, to the upland vale where
the single farmhouse is, and the tarn, and the stone,
"like a ship, with keel upturned," which is lodged in a
stream near to the tarn. Some people have un-
accountably fixed on the Bowder Stone to answer this
description ; but, besides that the Bowder Stone is far
away, it rests on its edge, instead of its " keel " being
"upturned." "The two huge peaks, that from some
other vale peer into this," are the Langdale Pikes ;
and very fine is the view of them from this wild and
somewhat dreary hollow. Since the Excursion was
written, large plantations of larch have arisen ; but
they do not much ameliorate the desolation of the
place. The road descends the common to Little
Langdale Tarn ; whence it is described, in a reverse
manner, in its course to Colwith Force, Skelwith, and
Ambleside, at p. 115.

In the third direction lies the way up the Pikes,
and over into Easedale. The guide from Milbeck will
take the traveller up the peat road to Stickle Tarn, —
famous for its trout, and much beloved by anglers.
Its circular basin, brimming with clear water, lies finely
under the steep rocks of Pavey Ark. There is nothing
amidst this mountain scenery more interesting than
its tarns. Their very use is one which gratifies one's
sense of beauty. Their use is to cause such a distribu-
tion of the waters as may fertilize without inundating
the lands below. After rains, if the waters came down

LANGDALE PIKES. 149

all at once, the vales would be flooded, — as we see,
very inconveniently, by the consequences of improved
agricultural drainage (p. 17). The tarns are a secu-
rity, as far as they go ; and at present the only one.
The lower brooks swell after rain, and pour themselves
into the rivers, while the mountain brooks aloft are
busy in the same way, emptying themselves into the
tarns. By the time the streams in the valley are sub-
siding, the upper tarns are full, and begin to overflow ;
and now the overflow can be received in the valley
without injury. As for their aspects, under all lights,
and in all weathers, they must be studied on the spot,
for no description can afford any impression of the
truth to highway tourists.

If the traveller means to ascend Harrison Stickle,
(the higher of the Langdale Pikes,) it will be from
this point. The summit of the Pike is 2,409 feet
above the level of the sea. The height is not very
great ; but the view is interesting, from being unlike
most others that can be obtained, — extending over
the level country to the south and south-east, while
commanded by the loftiest peaks of the district. —
Passing the way up the Pike, the moorland path leads
over into Easedale, and down upon Easedale Tarn,
which has been noticed at p. 51. There is a way
down into Borrowdale also, by crossing Codale Fell,
and getting into the Stake road.

There are other mountain paths out of Langdale.
There is one into Easedale, easier than that just
described, and commonly used in good weather. It
was by this track that the unfortunate couple, — the

k2

150 ESK HATTSE.

Greens, whose story is so well known, — were lost in
the snow, on their return from a sale in Langdale, to
their home and six children in Easedale.

There is also a very rough path at Langdale Head
up B,osset Grhyll, answering on the left to the Stake
road on the right. It at once catches the eye ; and
the invariable question of the stranger is which of the
two is the Stake. This track leads by Esk Hause and
Sprinkling Tarn to the Sty Head Pass. This is truly
a glorious mountain walk. From Esk Hause, there is
a singular view, composed of three lines of landscape.
One begins with Borrowdale, lying immediately below,
and extends to Derwentwater and Bassenthwaite, past
Skiddaw, in full glory, and on over the whole inter-
vening plain, to the Solway and the Scotch mountains.
This is the north-western view. — The opposite, or
south-eastern one, begins with Langdale, and proceeds
by the opening of the Brathay valley and Windermere,
till it is closed in by Ingleborough, in Yorkshire. —
The third, and intermediate view, is down Eskdale,
past its verdure and its cataracts, past the sands, past
lonely Blackcombe, to the broad sea. When we were
on Esk Hause, the spectacle of these three lines of
landscape was remarkable. Towards Keswick, the at-
mosphere was thick, just to the degree that gave a
visionary character to the long perspective. The
lake of Derwentwater was hardly distinguishable from
its shores, so that the wooded islands and the town of
Keswick lay as if in air, still and unsubstantial. In the
direction of Eskdale, all was bright and glittering ;
while from Langdale and the head of Borrowdale the

MOUNTAIN CHANGES. 151

white mists came tumbling out towards us, as if to
stifle us ; and nothing could be seen, except at inter-
vals, when a whiff of wind disclosed long sweeps of the
sides of the valleys, and stretches of the streams and
fields below. It is these changes that give a singular
charm to this mountain district. The residents of the
valleys, in their occasional ascents to these heights,
never see the scene twice alike, — the great landmarks
themselves being scarcely recognizable but by certain
incidents of their forms.

£3

II.

STY HEAD PASS, FROM WASTDALE TO BOEEOWDALE.

We have noticed the eastern prong of the fork into
which Glaramara divides the head of Borrowdale. We
now have to notice the western, — the Sty Head Pass.
The Stake Pass descends, as we saw, upon Stone-
thwaite. The Sty Head Pass descends upon Sea-
thwaite, — each of these farms being the last dw elling
at the head of the dale.

Antiquarians tell us that Borrowdale was anciently
called Boredale, " having its name probably from the
wild boars which used, in former times, to haunt the
woody part of Wastdale Forest ; the hill above it
being called Sty Head, where the swine were wont to
feed in the summer, and fall down in autumn into this
dale, where they fed upon nuts and acorns. Here are
large flocks of sheep ; and anciently were mines of lead
and copper. Here also, in a very high and perpendi-
dular rock called Eagle Crag, is every year an eyrie or
nest of eagles." So says the old history. # But the
traveller will find no swine near Sty Head now, sum-
mer or winter. No creature comes to drink at the
tarn, — the little clear rippling lake, where the moun-
taineer throws himself down to rest on the bank, when
heated by the ascent from the vales. He has found

# History and Antiquities of Westmorland and Cumberland, ii.
p. 69. — Nicholson and Burn.

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STY HEAD TAKN". 153

everything sunny and dry, perhaps ; but here he sees,
by the minute diamond drops resting thick on the
grass, that a cloud has lately stooped from its course,
and refreshed the verdure in this retreat. It looks
very tempting — this bright sheet of water ; but no
creature now comes to drink, unless a sheep may have
strayed far from the flock, and in its terror may yet
venture to stoop to the water, with many a start and
interval of listening, till, at the faint sound of the
distant sheep dog, it bounds away. The solitude is
almost equally impressive whether the traveller comes
up from the one dale or the other ; but perhaps the
most striking to him who comes from Wastdale,
because he has rather more lately left the dwellings of
men. He ascends from Wastdale Head, by the steep
path clearly visible from below, up the side of Great
Grable. At the top of the pass, the view behind is
extremely fine, — the dale lying 1,000 feet below,
while the precipices of Scawfell rise 2,000 feet over
head. The rill from Sprinkling Tarn is close by, and
it leads to this Sty Head Tarn, where the boars used to
come to drink. Long after the boars were gone, the
eagles came hither: and this was one of their last
haunts. The eagles which gave their name to the
crag in Borrowdale, being disturbed, settled themselves
on a rock at Seathwaite, and at length crossed the
ridge into Eskdale. The disturbance was of course
from the shepherds, who lost so many lambs as to be
driven desperate against the birds. There was no
footing on the crag by which the nest could be
reached ; so a man was lowered by a rope sixty yards

154 EAGLES.

down the precipice. He carried his mountain staff
with him ; its spiked end being the best weapon
against the birds. He did not expect to kill the old
ones ; but year after year the eggs or the young were
taken. If he brought the young away alive he had
the birds for his pains : if the eggs, every shepherd
gave five shillings for every egg. It is said that no
more than two eggs were ever found at one time.
The nest was made of twigs, and lined with a sort of
grass from the clefts of the rock. When the fowler
failed, and the eaglets were reared, they were led away,
as soon as strong enough, by the parent birds, — no
doubt to settle in some other spot ; and the parents
returned without them. One of this pair was shot at
by the master of a sheep dog which had been actually
carried some distance into the air by it, escaping only
by its flesh giving way. The shot took effect, but the
eagle vanished. About a week after, it was found
lying on the grass on the uplands at Seatoller, nearly
starved. Its bill had been split by the shot, and the
tongue was set fast in the cleft : it could not make
much resistance, and was carried home captive. But,
when relieved and restored, it became so violent that
it was necessarily killed. Its mate brought a successor
from a distance, a much smaller bird, and of a different
species. They built, however, for fourteen more years
in Borrowdale, before they flew over to Eskdale.
They were not long left in peace there ; and, when
the larger bird was at length shot, his mate disap-
peared entirely. Such devastation as was caused by
these birds is not heard of now ; but while there are

ELACKLEAD MINE. 155

crags aloft and lambs in the vales, there will be more
or fewer, nobler or meaner, birds of prey. We are
unable to ascertain positively, amidst conflicting testi-
mony, whether any eagles at all remain in the region.
It appears that one has certainly been seen within ten
years ; and three gentlemen, two of whom are travelled
men, and not likely to be mistaken in such a matter,
declare that, four years ago, they saw one sweep down
from Scandale Fell into Kirkstone Pass, and rest on a
crag in the vale, some way above Brothers' Water.
There is, however, a preponderance of disbelief of there
being now any nest and settlement of eagles among
the mountains of Westmorland and Cumberland.

The descent upon Stockley bridge is easy ; and the
bridge itself was, a few years since, a favourite subject
for sketches. A more picturesque one we never saw :
but it has been spoiled in the repairing. — As he pro-
ceeds, the traveller will find no " nuts and acorns " in
this " Boredale," nor any remarkable number of swine.
But he may see the place, — if he looks up the hill-
side to the left, — whence was drawn the modern pro-
duct that has in modern times, distinguished the
dale, — the blacklead of which the Keswick pencils are
made. It is understood that the productiveness of the
mine has much lessened ; and the works are, we believe,
often suspended; but, while the best ore brings 30s.
per lb., there will be more or less perseverance in seek-
ing it. The heaps of rubbish, high up the mountain,
show the spot. In the clay slate of the mountain is a
bed of greenstone rock; and "nests" or "sops" or
" bellies' ' of black lead are found in the greenstone.

156 BOREOWDALE TEWS.

The plumbago is the finest ever discovered : but there
is great uncertainty about finding it. At one time, a
mass of it was discovered lying along like a mighty
tree, the thicker part being of the finest quality, and
the ramifications of a poorer, till, at the extremities, it
was not worthy even to clean stoves. At other times
the searchers have been altogether at fault, for a long
time together. There was a time when the value of
this plumbago was so little known that the shepherds
used it freely to mark their sheep : and next, the proprie-
tors were obtaining from thirty to forty shillings a
pound for the lead of one single " sop" which yielded
upwards of twenty-eight tons. Those were the days
when houses were built at the entrance, where the
workmen were obliged to change their clothes, under
inspection, lest they should be tempted to carry away
any of the precious stuff in their pockets.

Under the mine, (the wad) and a little onward,
amidst the copsewood, are the dark tops of the Bor-
rowdale yews to be seen, — the " fraternal four," which,
as Wordsworth tells us, form "one solemn and capa-
cious grove." The size attained by the yew in this
district is astonishing. One which for many years lay
prostrate at the other end of Borrowdale, measured
nine yards in circumference, and contained 1,460 feet of
wood. The famous Lorton yew (p. 87.) has about the
same girth ; and one of these four measures seven
yards round, at four feet from the ground.

At Seatoller, the roads which part off right and left
are familiar to the traveller who has accomplished the
preceding excursions, — the one leading to Rosthwaite
and the other to Honister Crag.

III.

ASCENT OF SCAWEELL.

The ascent of Scawfell is sometimes made from the
Sty Head Pass ; sometimes from Lingmell ; and some-
times from Langdale, whence the path meets that from
Sty Head on Esk Hause. From Esk Hause the summit
of the Pike is visible ; but still, care is necessary not to
ascend the wrong summit. There are four summits
which collectively go under the name of Scawfell ; viz,
the most southerly, which is called simply Scawfell;
Scawfell Pike, which is sixty feet higher, and the
highest mountain in England (3,160 feet :) and the
lower hills, Lingmell and Great End, — the last being
the northernmost, and fronting Borrowdale. The
Ordnance surveyors set up a staff on a pile of stones on
the highest peak ; so that there need be no mistake
henceforth. The two summits are about three-quarters
of a-mile apart, in a straight line ; but the great chasm
between them, called Mickledore, renders a wide circuit
necessary. There have been fool-hardy persons who
have passed Mickledore without losing their lives ; and
there are strangers, almost every season, who attempt
the ascent without a guide. These last usually pay the
penalty of their rashness in hours of uneasy wandering
and excessive fatigue. When they think they see their
way clearly enough, they are pretty sure to find them-
selves brought up on the verge of a chasm, and com-

158 SUMMIT OF SCAWFELL.

pelled to " try round " many times before they succeed.
If darkness comes on, there is nothing to be done but
to wait for daylight where they are. Another reason
for having a guide is that the mountains around are
not recognisable by their forms, — so great is the
change caused by their being looked at from above.
By map and compass they may be made out : but the
summit is usually windy i and much time and trouble
are saved by the information needed being ready at
one's elbow.

The summit is bare of every thing that grows,
except moss. Not a blade of grass is to be seen : and
it follows that the herdsman and shepherd never have
to come here after their charge. Blocks and inclined
planes of slate rock, cushioned and draped with mosses,
compose the peak. As for what is seen from it, —
the best service to the stranger is still to copy portions
of that "Letter to a friend" which Mr. Wordsworth
published many years ago, and which is the best account
we have of the greatest mountain excursion in England.
The weather was, however, unusual. The guide said,
when on the summit, " I do not know that in my
whole life, I was ever, at any season of the year, so
high upon the mountains on so calm a day." It was
the seventh of October.

"On the summit of the Pike," says the letter,
"which we gained after much toil, though without
difficulty, there was not a breath of air to stir even the
papers containing our refreshment, as they lay spread
out upon a rock. The stillness seemed to be not of
this world. We paused, and kept silence to listen, and

VIEW FROM SCAWEELL. J 59

no sound could be heard. The Scawfell cataracts were
voiceless to us ; and there was not an insect to hum in
the air. The vales which we had seen from Esk
Hause lay yet in view, and, side by side with Eskdale,
we now saw the sister Vale of Donnerdale terminated
by the Duddon Sands. But the majesty of the moun-
tains below, and close to us, is not to be conceived.
We now beheld the whole mass of Great Gable from
its base — the Den of Wastdale at our feet — a gulf
immeasurable; Grasmire, and the other mountains of
Crummock ; Ennerdale and its mountains ; and the sea
beyond!" # # # " While we were gazing
around, c Look,' I exclaimed, 6 at yon ship upon the
glittering sea ! ' ' Is it a ship ? ' replied our shepherd
guide. 'It can be nothing else,' interposed my com-
panion. 6 1 cannot be mistaken ; I am so accustomed
to the appearance of ships at sea.' The guide dropped
the argument ; but, before a minute was gone, he
quietly said, ' Now, look at your ship — it is changed
into a horse.' So it was ; a horse with a gallant neck
and head. We laughed heartily ; and I hope, when
again inclined to be positive, I may remember the ship
and the horse upon the glittering sea ; and the calm
confidence, yet submissiveness, of our wise man of the
mountains, who certainly had 'more knowledge of the
clouds than we, whatever might be our knowledge of
ships.

" I know not how long we might have remained on
the summit of the pike, without a thought of moving,
had not our guide warned us that we must not linger,
for a storm was coming. We looked in vain to espy

160 PASSING STORM.

the signs of it. Mountains, vales and sea were touched
with the clear light of the sun. ' It is there ! said he,
pointing to the sea beyond Whitehaven ' and there we
perceived a light vapour, unnoticeable but by a shep-
herd accustomed to watch all mountain bodings. We
gazed around again, and yet again, unwilling to lose
the remembrance of what lay before us in that moun-
tain solitude ; and then prepared to depart. Mean-
while, the air changed to cold, and we saw that tiny
vapour swelled into mighty masses of cloud, which
came boiling over the mountains. Great Gable, Hel-
vellyn and Skiddaw were wrapped in storm ; yet
Langdale, and the mountains in that quarter, remained
all bright in sunshine. Soon the storm reached us ;
we sheltered under a crag ; and almost as rapidly as it
had come, it passed away, and left us free to observe
the struggles of gloom and sunshine in other quarters.
Langdale had now its share ; and the Pikes of Lang-
dale were decorated by two splendid rainbows. Before
we again reached Esk Hause, every cloud had vanished
from every summit."

We cannot do better than stop at these auspicious
words. May the tourist who reads this on the Pike
see every cloud vanish from every summit !

IV.

SCAKF GAP.

The other exit from Wastdale Head is by the road
to Scarf Gap, already referred to as having been found
dangerous by inexperienced travellers. A rough foot-
road leads through the valley of Mosedale, between
Kirkfell and Yewbarrow, till it enters Gillerthwaite, at
the head of Ennerdale. Kirkfell and the stream being
kept on the right, the track passes between Kirkfell
and the Pillar. Coming down into Gillerthwaite, the
view is beautiful. Great Gable and Kirkfell close in
the dale at its head ; High Stile and Red Pike are in
front, and Gillerthwaite is below, with its circular
green level, dropped over with wood, its farmhouse and
stream, and the lake at the other end. Behind, the
wild valley of Mosedale winds away between Kirkfell
and Yewbarrow, and discloses the great summits of
Scawfell and Bowfell. The Pillar is 2,893 feet high,
and inaccessible, from its craggy and precipitous
character. The path leads along the Pass called
Blacksail to a sheepfold on the little river Liza, which
falls into Ennerdale Lake : at that fold the stream will
be crossed, and an indistinct path will be seen crossing
a hollow in the direction of Buttermere. That hollow
is Scarf Gap ; and the path leads out upon Gatesgarth,
at the head of Buttermere. From Gatesgarth it is
four miles to Seat oiler in Borrowdale, one mile to

162 GATESGARTH.

Honister Crag, and two miles from the Inn at Butter-
.mere. As nearly as we can make out, the walk from
Wastdale to G-atesgarth is somewhat short of twelve
miles. Most of it must be traversed on foot, though
a horse may be led, to be occasionally mounted.

Y.

GKISEDALE. — ASCENT OF HELVELLYN.

There is a charming walk of ten miles from Patter-
dale to Grasmere (from inn to inn) by Grisedale, which
may as well be enjoyed by the pedestrian traveller,
whether he chooses to ascend Helvellyn or not. Grras-
mere and Grisedale have the same derivation, — Gris
being the old Saxon for wild swine : and these are
therefore the lake and the valley of the wild boar. A
deep and still retreat must both have been in the days
of wild boars.

From Patterdale, the traveller crosses Grisedale
beck, and ascends by a steep well-wooded road to the
table-land of Grisedale. The old hollies in the woods
are remarkably fine. At every step the grandeur and
gloom overhead increase, — the path leading directly
under the frowning Helvellyn. The Greenside lead
mines are about half way up, under Striding Edge ;
and the tourist is likely to mistake the track to the
mines for his own road : but he must keep the stream
to the right, — in other words, he must keep on the
right bank of the stream for some way further. The
path crosses and recrosses the beck in climbing the
steep ascent to the tarn; but there is no further
danger of losing the track. The view of Place Fell
behind is fine, as seen through the steep sides of the
dale ; and north-westwards, the mountains about the

L

164 GRISEDALE TARN.

Vale of Newlands are seen peeping between Seat San-
dal, and Helvellyn. The tarn lies under the east flank
of Seat Sandal in a deep hollow ; and a more sweet and
solemn resting place than Grisedale Tarn is not perhaps
to be found among these mountains. A wall runs along
the ridge ; and through the gate in that wall the track
leads down to Grasmere. The views are gayer and
more extensive by far than those presented by the
other half of the pass. The mountains seen thence
are the Langdale Pikes and Coniston Old Man, with
Scawfell and Bowfell predominant. The first part of
the descent is steep, and the latter part gradual and
pleasant, over grass, and finally between fences and
among farmhouses, till the path comes out upon the
mail road, opposite Helm Crag, and some way above
the Swan at Grasmere.

If the traveller ascends Helvellyn from Grisedale, he
must take the road to the right, soon after entering
the dale, in order to reach Red Tarn. Some sturdy
climbers go on to Grisetlale Tarn, and climb the moun-
tain from its head : but it is best to take the road to
Red Tarn, either by Grisedale or Glenridding, — the
next turn from Patterdale. It is possible to go on
ponies to within half an hour's walk of the summit.
Red Tarn lies 600 feet immediately below the highest
point, parted off from Grisedale by the rocky ridge of
Striding Edge, and surmounted in the opposite direc-
tion by the similar ridge of Swirrel Edge. This last is
the ridge along which the track lies, — the conical
head of Catchedecam being its termination. This part
of the ascent is that which is most trying to unaccus-

ASCENT OF HELVELLYtf. 165

tomed nerves, though there is no real danger. It was
in trying the other ridge, (which it is always fool-
hardy to do,) that Charles Grough fell from the preci-
pice, where his corpse was watched hy his dog for two
months, till it was found. Every one knows the story,
as told by Wordsworth and Scott. There are stakes
near the tarn where horses are fastened, and then
there is a steep scramble to the top.

There are precipices on the east of the summit ; but
its mossy plain slopes gently towards the west. No
mountain in the district is, we believe, so often
climbed. Its central situation renders the view at-
tractive on every account ; it is very conspicuous ; and
it is not difficult of ascent. According to the Ord-
nance Surveyors, its height is 3,055 feet above the
level of the sea ; that is, 33 feet higher than Skiddaw,
and rather more than 100 feet lower than Scawfell
Pike. There are three modes of ascent from the Gras-
mere side ; — the one by Grisedale Tarn : another from
Wythburn ; and a third further' on from Legberthwaite.
The one from Wythburn is the shortest, but by much
the steepest, — the track beginning at once to climb
the hill opposite the Nag's Head. The gushing
stream which crosses the mail road near the Nag's
Head comes down from Brownrigg's well, — the spring
which refreshes the traveller on his way up or down, —
bursting from the mountain side within 300 yards of
the summit. There are two cairns on two summits,
not far apart, from between which, in an angle in the
hill, the best view to the north is obtained. These
Men, (as such piles of stones are called) mark the

l2

166 SUMMIT OF HELVELLYIS'.

dividing line between Cumberland and Westmorland.
Northwards, the view is bounded by the Scotch moun-
tains, with the Solway at their feet. Nearer stands
Saddleback, with Skiddaw a little to the left. Kepel
Cove Tarn lies below, with Catchedecam on the right.
Eastwards, Eed Tarn lies immediately below, between
its two solemn precipices. Ullswater shines beyond,
its nearer bank fringed by Gowbarrow Park ; and
Crossfell closes in the view afar. The Troutbeck
mountains here peep over Striding Edge. Kirkstone
and Fairfield rise to the south ; and over the latter,
there is a peep at Windermere, and sometimes, in clear
weather, a glimpse of Lancaster Castle. Esthwaite
Water and the sea in Morecambe Bay are seen at the
same time. Blackcombe is caught sight of through
Wrynose Gap ; and the Coniston range and Langdale
Pikes lead the eye round to the superior summits at
the head of Wastdale and Buttermere. Even Honister
Crag is seen, in a hollow, a little to the left of Cat
Bells. Derwent water is not seen : nor, from the higher
Man, either Thirlmere or Bassenthwaite ; though the
two last are visible from the lower Man. Six lakes are
seen, besides many tarns : — Ullswater, Windermere,
Esthwaite Water, Coniston, Bassenthwaite and Thirl-
mere. Angle Tarn is particularly conspicuous, while
its neighbour, Hays Water, is hidden in its hollow
under High Street. The streams it sends down to
Brothers' Water are however, very conspicuous when
the sun is upon them.

VI.

CONISTON OLD MAN. — WALNA SCAR,

There is one more which the tourist would not
excuse our omitting. He wants to see the copper
mine and the series of tarns on Coniston Old Man ;
and he hears it said, and very truly, that the prospects
are finer than any but those from Scawfell and Helvel-
lyn, — if not, indeed, finer than the latter.

The ascent is best made by following the Walna
Scar road which leads from Coniston into Seathwaite.
When the traveller has left the bright and prosperous
environs of Coniston behind him, and entered upon the
moor, he begins to feel at once the exhilaration of the
mountaineer. Behind him lies a wide extent of hilly
country, subsiding into the low blue ridges of Lanca-
shire. Below him he sees, when he turns, here and
there a reach of the Lake of Coniston, — gray, if his
walk be, as it should be, in the morning : gray, and
reflecting the dark promontories in a perfect mirror.
Amidst the grassy undulations of the moor, he sees,
here or there, a party of peat-cutters, with their crate :
and their white horse, if the sun be out, looks absolutely
glittering, in contrast with the brownness of the
ground. It is truly a wild moor ; but there is some-
thing wilder to come. The Coniston Mountain towers
to the right, — and the only traces of human existence
that can be perceived are the tracks which wind along

l3

168 ASCENT OF CONISTON OLD MAN.

and up its slopes, — the paths to the Coppermine, —
and a solitary house, looking very desolate among its
bare fields and fences. The precipice called Dow (or
Dhu) Crag appears in front ere long; and then the
traveller must turn to the right, and get up the steep
mountain side to the top, as he best may. Where
Dow Crag and the Old Man join, a dark and solemn
tarn lies beneath the precipice, as he will see from
above, whence it lies due west, far below. Eound three
sides of this Gait's Tarn, the rock is precipitous ; and
on the other, the crags are piled in grotesque fashion,
and so as to afford, — as does much of this side of the
mountain, — a great harbourage for foxes, against which
the neighbouring population are for ever waging war.
The summit is the edge of a line of rocks overhanging
another tarn, — Low Water, — which is 2,000 feet
above the sea level, while the summit of the Old Man
is 2,632. On this rock, a " Man" formerly stood ; but
it was removed by the Ordnance Surveyors, who erected
another, much inferior in convenience; for the first
contained a chamber, welcome to shepherds and
tourists overtaken by bad weather. The mountain
consists chiefly of a very fine roofing slate, from which
a large tract of country is supplied, and in which a very
important trade was formerly carried on. Several of
the quarries are now deserted. From the earliest
recorded times, there have been works here for the
extraction of copper ; and at present it is no unusual
thing for £2,000 per month to be paid away in wages.
The works commence at about half a-mile up the
mountain, on its east side ; and there is a large estab-

SUMMIT OF CONISTON OLD MAN. 169

lishment of sheds, shops and offices, clustered at the
upper end of a basin among the hills. If the traveller
desires to explore the mines, he can descend on that
side of the mountain. Meantime, looking abroad from
his perch, he sees, (beginning from G-ait's Tarn)
Devoke Water, in a line with G-ait's Tarn, to the west.
It is said that the trout in that lake are the best known ;
and tradition declares that the comfortable abbots
of Furness imported them from Italy. There is a fine
stretch of sea visible, with the Isle of Man, conspicuous
in good weather. We need not recapitulate the names
of the chief mountains. Suffice it that Ingleborough
is visible in one direction, and Lancaster Castle again
in another; and in clear weather, Snow don. The
number of tarns within view is remarkable. We have
mentioned Gait's Tarn and Low Water. Beyond the
latter lies Seathwaite Tarn, whence the infant Duddon
issues. Stickle Tarn is conspicuous, lying under Pavey
Ark. In a hollow of the mountain, on its north-east
side, lies Lowes Water. Only the nearer lakes are
seen ; but there is a glorious stretch of sea ; and, when
the estuaries are full, the coast is a beautiful spectacle.
The shores of Coniston and Windermere, studded with
woods and dwellings, are the nearer beauties.

The finest descent, though the longest, is by the
ridge of Wetherlam, above Levers Water, descending
into Tilberthwaite, and returning to Coniston through
Yewdale, noticed at p. 27.

VII.

HAWES WATER. — PASS OP NANBIELD.

MILES. MILES.

Penrith to Askham 5

4 Bampton Church 9

4 Mardale Green 13

2| Nanbield 15|

3^ Kentmere Chapel 19

OR,

Mardale, by Nanbield and High Street, to Troutbeck inn, 6 miles.

There remains but one lake to be noticed, and that
is Kawes Water, which is less visited than any other in
the district. It is beautiful, but rather out of the
way, except to visitors who come by Penrith ; as they
are usually bent on seeing at once the most celebrated
points of scenery. Penrith is a neat little town, busy,
from being the great thoroughfare of the district, but
not particularly interesting, except from some Druidical
remains in the neighbourhood, a curiosity in the
churchyard, and the vicinity of Brougham Castle. The
circle called Long Meg and her daughters is six miles
from Penrith ; and no relic of the kind in England is
better worth a visit. In the churchyard of Penrith is
the monument about which nobody really knows any
thing, though it goes by the name of the Giant's
Grave. It consists of two stone pillars, with four slabs
between them, set up on edge. There are some unde-
cipherable carvings on the upper part of the pillars.
This was the monument which Sir. Walter Scott's

brougham: castle. 171

family could not get him past, (though they had all
seen it " dozens of times,") when, failing and infirm,
he set out on his last sad journey, in pursuit of health.
Passing through Penrith, he would see the Giant's
Grave ; and thither he limped, to wonder once more
what it could mean.

The parish of Brougham, Burg-ham (meaning
Castle-town) was the Brovacum of the Romans, where,
as we learn from Mcolson and Burn, they had a
company of Defensores, and left many tokens of their
presence in antiquities which have come to light from
time to time. The Village of Brougham passed into
the hands of the Veteriponts in the reign of John or
Henry III. The Castle of Brougham has been held
by the Veteriponts, Cliffords and Tuftons, and is now
the property of the Earl of Thanet. It is now in
ruins ; and fine ruins they are. They stand at the
confluence of the Eamont and Lowther Rivers, at the
distance of a mile from Penrith.

Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham, is
within a mile and a-half of Penrith. The traveller
should walk along the river bank from the bridge at
Brougham Hall to Askham, and then ascend the steep
bank of red sandstone, overshadowed by trees, to the
park of Lowther Castle, The grounds here are fine ;
especially the terrace, which affords a noble walk. It
is very elevated ; broad, mossy, shady, breezy, and over-
looking a considerable extent of country, — some of
which is fertile plain, and some undulating surface, —
the margin of the mountain region. The most re-
markable feature of this landscape is perhaps the hoi-

172 HAWES WATER.

low, within which lies Hawes Water. The park has
some fine old trees ; and the number and size of the
yews in the grounds will strike the stranger. But
lasting injury was done to the woods by the hurricane
of 1839, which broke its way straight through, levelling
every thing in its path. On the road from Askham to
Bampton, the high grounds of Lowther present on the
left a nearly straight line of great elevation, along
which runs the park wall, almost to the extremity of
the promontory. From a distance, it looks the most
enviable position for a park that can be imagined.

Hawes Water lies about four miles from Askham.
It is little more than three miles long, and about half
a-mile broad. One side is richly wooded ; the other
nearly bare : and a pair of bold promontories threaten
to cut it in two, in one part, where the passage is only
two or three hundred yards wide. Round the head of
the lake cluster the great mountains of Harter Fell,
High Street, Kidsty Pike and others, leaving space
among the skirts for the exquisite little valley of Mar-
dale. Those who are able to obtain one of Lord
Lonsdale's boats for the traverse of the lake may think
themselves fortunate ; for this is, of course, the most
perfect way of seeing the surroundings of so small a
sheet of water : and all other persons are deprived, by
prohibition, of the means of doing so. There are some
good houses on the shores and at the further end ; but
the occupants who live on the very brink are not allowed
to keep any sort of boat. His lordship's boats are said
to be procurable for the asking ; but the preliminaries
are a hindrance. The walk along the lake side is, how-

MARDALE GREEK. 173

ever, easy and agreeable enough. The road skirts the
western bank. The crags which are sprinkled or
heaped about the head of the lake are very fine. They
jut out from the mountain side, or stand alone on the
green slopes, or collect into miniature mountain clus-
ters, which shelter tiny dells, whence the sheep send
forth their bleat. There is a white house conspicuous
at the head of the lake which is not the inn, how-
ever the tired traveller may wish it were. The inn
at Mardale Green is a full mile from the water ; and
sweet is the passage to it, if the walker be not too
weary. The path winds through the levels, round the
bases of the knolls, past the ruins of the old church,
and among snug little farms, while, at one end of the
dale is the lake, and the other is closed in by the passes
to Kentmere and Sleddale ; and the great Pikes tower
on either hand. The stream which gushes here and
pauses there, as it passes among rough stones or
through a green meadow, comes down from Small
Water, reinforced by a brook from Blea Water on High
Street, which joins the other a little above Mardale.

The hostess at Mardale Green Inn will make her
guests comfortable with homely food and a clean bed :
and the host will, if necessary, act as guide up the passes.
The small green level which from the mountains looks
such a mere speck, is of some importance at a distance.
It actually sends 3,000 pounds of butter weekly to
Manchester by the railway. The carrier's waggon
picks up the baskets from the scattered dwellings in
the dale, and transmits no less than thirty cwts. per
week to the Manchester folk.

174 PASS OF NAOTIELD.

The traveller must either go back the way he came,
or climb out of the dale at the head, whence three
tracks branch off from the top of the pass of Nanbield.
One of these tracks turns to the left before reaching
Small Water, and goes down into Long Sleddale, — to
follow which we know of no sufficient inducement,
unless it be that the way is practicable for a horse, —
which the others are not. Another path ascends, by
the pretty Blea Tarn, the slope of High Street on the
right, where the Roman road runs along the ridge.
The third goes forward past Small Water, and drops
into Kent mere, whence it is easy to strike over the fells
into Troutbeck. The choice will depend much on
weather, of course ; and we wish the traveller some-
thing more of a choice than was permitted to us when
we were last there, when the wind laid the whole party
flat on the summit of the pass, and put all thought of
High Street quite out of the question. The account of
the weather given by a resident not far off is " It donks
and it dozzles ; and whiles its a bit siftering : but it
don't often mak no girt pel." That is, — it is misty,
and drizzles ; and it is sometimes showery ; but there
is not often a great down pour. The wind however
is often strong ; and the exhaustion from a high wind
on high ground is greater than any would believe who
has not experienced it.

There is no difficulty in the ascent from Mardale
Green ; but the traveller indulges in frequent rests, for
the sake of looking back upon the singularly-secluded
valley, with its winding stream, its faintly-marked
track, and its little inn, recognised to the last by the

KENTMERE. 175

sycamores and poplars which overshadow its roof, and
rustle before the door. Then he comes to the hollow
where lies the tarn, — Small Water. Here he will rest
again, sitting among scattered or shelving rocks, and
drinking from this pure mountain basin. Arrived at
the top, he loses sight of Mardale, and greets Kent-
mere almost at the same moment. The dale behind is
wild as any recess in the district : while before him lies
a valley whose grandeur is all at the upper end, and
which spreads out and becomes shallower with every
mile of its recession from the great mountain cluster.
When he has gone down a mile, he finds that he is
travelling on one side of Kentmere Tongue, — - the pro-
jection which in this and most other valleys, splits the
head of the dale into a fork. When he arrives at the
chapel, he finds that there is a carriage-road which
would lead him forth to Staveley and Kendal. But he
is probably intending to go over into Troutbeck : so he
turns up to the right, and pursues the broad zigzag
track which leads over the Fell, till Troutbeck opens
beneath him on the other side. Before beginning the
ascent, however, he will note Kentmere Hall, — the
birthplace of Bernard Gilpin, in 1517. If familiar
with the old description of the district, he will look for
Kentmere Tarn, and wonder to see no trace of it. It
is drained away ; and fertile fields now occupy the
place of the swamp, reeds and shallow water which he
might have seen but a few years ago. While this tarn
existed, the mills at Kendal were very irregularly sup-
plied with water. Now, when the streams are collected
in a reservoir, which the traveller sees in coming down

176 DESCENT UPON TROUTBECK.

from the pass of Nanbield, and the intercepting tarn is
done away with, the flow of water no longer fails.

The track crosses Applethwaite common into Trout-
beck, descending upon the chapel and the bridge in the
very depth of that primitive valley, which was one of
the first we described (p. 34.) We believe that in the
whole circuit there is no scene or object of importance
omitted in our detail.

WEATHER.

The only remaining consideration is the weather.
There is no need to observe that where there are many
mountain tops, there must be much rain. The Lake
District does receive a high average of rain, as is shown
by the following set of observations, published by Dr.
Miller of Whitehaven.

FALL OF RAIN AT SEATHWAITE, BORROWDALE.

1845.

1846.

1847. 1848. 1849. 1850. 1851.

1852.

1853.

i 152.

143.

129. 161. 125. 144. 140.

AVERAGE OF TEN YEARS.

At Keswick 60 inches.
„ Crummock 85 „
„ Ambleside 82 „
„ Kendal 56 „
„ Bowness 61 „
„ Troutbeck 81 „
„ Greenwich 25 „
„ Chiswick 24 „

157.

114.

Much of the rich and verdant beauty of the region
is derived from its frequent rains; but inexperienced
tourists complain bitterly of them. For the guidance
of strangers, it may be mentioned that, generally
speaking, the worst months of the year in the Lake

178 THE SEASONS AT THE LAKES.

District are November and December for storms;
March for spring gales ; and July for summer rains.
The driest season is usually for a month or more
onwards from the middle of May. September and
October are often very fine months. Those who come
but once, and take only a very cursory view, cannot be
too careful in choosing the most favourable season for
their trip, though to those who are familiar with the
characteristics of this paradise, there is no aspect or
accident of earth or sky that has not its charm.

MOUNTAINS AND PASSES.

179

A TABLE OF THE HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS IN THE COUNTIES
OF CUMBERLAND, WESTMORLAND, AND LANCASHIRE.

Height in

No.

Names of Mountains.

Counties.

Feet above

the
Sea Level.

1

Scawfell Pikes

Cumberland

3160

2

Scawfell ...

3100

3

Helvellyn

n

3055

4

Skiddaw ...

3022

5

Fairfield

Westmorland

2950

6

Great Gable, Wastdale

Cumberland

2925

7

Bowfell

Westmorland

2914

8

Rydal Head

)>

2910

9

Pillar

Cumberland

2893

10

Blencathra, Saddleback ...

}j

2787

11

Grassmoor ...

5)

2756

12

Red Pike, Buttermere

2750

13

High Street, Kentmere

Westmorland

2700

14

Grisedale Pike

Cumberland

2680

15

Coniston Old Man

Lancashire

2632

1G

Hill Bell

Westmorland

2500

17

Langdale Pikes

2400

18

Carrock Fell, Caldbeck

Cumberland

2110

19

High Pike, Caldbeck ...

>»

2101

20

Causey Pike

)t

2040

21

Black Combe...

jj

1919

22

Lord's Seat

»j

1728

23

Honister Crag

1700

24

Whinfell Beacon, near Kendal

Westmorland

1500

25

Cat Bell, Newlands ...

Cumberland

1448

26

Latrigg, Keswick...

5>

1160

Height
in

Feet.

Highest English Mountain, Scawfell Pike, Cumberland

3,166

Highest Welsh Mountain, Snowden, Carnarvonshire

3,571

Highest Irish Mountain, Gurrane Tual, Kerry

3,404

Highest Scotch Mountain, Ben Nevis, Invernesshire

4,408

Highest European Mountain, Mount Blanc

15,781

Highes

t Mountain in the World, Dhawala^

ifiri, Asia

26,862

PASSES.

Heights above

the Level of

the Sea.

Sty Head ... ... ... ... Cumberland

Buttermere Hawes, Newlands ... „
Kirkstone ... ... ... ... Westmorland

Borrowdale Hawes, to Buttermere ... Cumberland ..
Dunmail Raise ... ... ... ... West. & Cumb.

... 1250
1160

... 1200
1100

... 720

M

180

LAKES AND WATERFALLS.

A TABLE OF THE LENGTH, BREADTH, AND DEPTH OF THE

LAKES.

Length

Extreme
breadth

Extreme

Height

JNo.

Names of Lakes.

Counties.

m

depth

above

Miles.

Miles.

in Feet.

theSea

1

Windermere

Westmorland

10

1

240

116

2

Haweswater

3

X

443

3

Grasmere

H

1

180

180

4

Brothers' Water...

Of

I

72

—

5

Rydal Water

o^

1

54

156

6

Red Tarn, Helvellyn

—

2400

7

Coniston Water . .

Lancashire

6

1_

160

105

8

Esthwaite Water ...

2

i

80

198

9

Ullswater

Cumberland

9

1

210

380

10

Bassenthwaite Water

4

1

68

210

11

Derwentwater

3

n

72

228

12

Crummock

3

3.

132

240

13

Buttermere

11

3.

90

247

14

Loweswater

1

X

60

—

15

Ennerdale

2*

X

so

—

16

Wastwater

3

1

"2

270

160

17

Thirlmere

j»

2f

1

a

108

473

WATERFALLS.

Feet

No.

Names and Situations of Falls.

Counties.

m
Height.

1

Colwith Force, live miles from Ambleside

Westmorland

90

2

Dungeon Ghyll Force, Langdale

jj

90

3

Stockghyll Force, near Ambleside

»

70

4

Rydal Fall, near Ambleside

70

5

Scale Force, S.W. Side of Crummock Lake

Cumberland

160

6

Lodore Cascade, near Keswick

150

7

Barrow Cascade, near Keswick

122

8

Ara Force, West Side of Ullswater

80

9

Birker Force, Eskdale

65

10

Stanley Gill, Eskdale

62

11

Sour Milk Force,

M

60

FLOWERING PLANTS, FERNS, AND MOSSES.

WINDERMEEE AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

The banks of Windermere afford many objects of
interest to the lover of British wild flowers ; so numer-
ous and various, indeed, are the more or less rare plants
to be found in the lake itself, — in the mountain tarns,
streams, woods and bogs, and on the fells and heath,
that it is difficult to give a satisfactory account of them
in the space of a short chapter. A general description
of the Flora of the district may, however, be of some
use to the tourist who, in passing through the country,
wishes to secure anything which may be worthy of a
place in his herbarium or garden. The writer proposes
to enumerate the least common plants which have been
found within about three miles of the lake, occasionally
noticing objects of peculiar interest which are found at
a greater distance.

Of the order Eanunculacsee, Thalictrum navum is not
uncommon about the margin of the lake ; T. minus
is also found; the beautiful globe-flower Trollius
europceus is abundant in various situations ; Helle-
borus virdis occurs in two situations near Winder-
mere terminus, and H. fcetidus grows near the

m 2

182 FLOWERING PLANTS.

road between Bowness and Kendal : it is very pro-
bable that both these are introduced ; Aquilegia
vulgaris is found in numerous places.

Of Nymphceacece, Nymphcea alba and Nuphar lutea
are frequent in the lake and many of the mountain
tarns.

Of Papaveracea?, Meconopsis cambrica is not uncommon,
and in some places, such as near the Ferry Inn and
other parts of Fumess Fells, and in Troutbeck it is
abundant ; Chelidonium majus is common.

Of Fumariacece, Corydalis claviculata is not uncommon
in heathy places.

Of Cruciferoe, Lepidium Smithii is abundant ; L. draba
grows near Newby Bridge ; Arabis hirsuta is found
on Whitbarrow ; Cochlearia officinalis on Kirkstone.

Helianthemum canum, of the order Cistaca?, occurs in
Wither slack.

Of Droseracese, Drosera rotundifolia is abundant, and
D. longifolia is rare.

Of Caryophyllacese, Stellaria nemorum is found in some
wet woods and ghylls ; Silene acaulis grows on Fair-
field.

Of Malvaceae, Malva moschata and sylvestris are
frequent in various places.

Of Hypericacese, Hypericum androscemum is not un-
common on wooded fellsides, generally near rivulets ;
H. quadrangulum and humifusum are common,
and H. hirsutum is plentiful on Whitbarrow.

Of Geraniaieae, Geranium sylvatium is not uncommon ;
G. lucidum is frequent ; G. sanguineum and pratense
are abundant on Whitbarrow.

FLOWERING PLANTS. 183

Of Balsaminacea?, Impatiens noli me tangere is plentiful
on Furness Fells, near the Ferry Inn, at Miller-
ground, Gill Head, and many other places.

Of Rhamnacese, Rhamnus catharticus and frangula are
found on the islands of Windermere.

Of Leguminiferese, Genista tinctoria is very abundant
and beautiful in heathy places ; Hippocrepis comosa
is found at Grange.

Of Rosacese, Prunus padus is common ; Spiraea salici-
folia grows near the Ferry Inn, but this is doubtless
introduced, as this plant is now found to be nowhere
indigeneous in Great Britain ; Rubus suberectus is
found in woods and sometimes on open mountain
sides ; R. saxatilis occurs in a few places ; R. idceus
rhamnifolius, lucostachys and rudis are the most
common species of Rubus here ; R. chamsemorus
grows in Long Sleddale ; we have seen Rosa spinosis-
sima in a few places ; R. viliosa is very common.

Of Haloragiaeese, Myriophyllum spicatum and verticil-
latum abound in the lake.

Of Grossulariacese, Ribes rubrum and grossulara are
plentiful in the woods.

Of Crassulacese, Sedum telephium and anglicum are
very common ; S. Rhodiola grows on Fairfield ; and
Cotyledon umbilicus is found in many places.

Of SaxifragaceaB, Saxifraga aizoides stellaris, and hyp-
noides are found on the mountain tops : we have not
seen S. oppositifolia nearer than Helvellyn ; S. platy-
petala grows on the heights of Fairfield ; Chryso-
plenium alternifolium is also found by some rivulets ;
Parnassia palustris is very abundant.

m3

184 FLOWEKING PLANTS.

Of Bubiaceae, Galium boreale grows on the islands of
Windermere and Asperula cynenchica is found on
Whitbarrow.

Of Umbelliferae, Sium angustifolium is common in the
streams, and Myrrhis odorata is by no means rare in
old orchards and elsewhere.

Of Composite, Apargia hispida is common and very
handsome ; Sonchus palustris occurs in some marshy
places ; Crepis paludosa is frequent in wet woods ;
Hieracium alpinum is found on Langdale Pikes ; H.
lawsoni, on Kirkstone Pass ; H. inuloides, in moun-
tain rills ; H. sylvaticum and boreale are common ;
but we are not able to give a list of all the mountain
Species of Eawkweed which may be found in the
district ; the lower range of fells, near the lake, are
not likely to produce any rare species, but the higher
series, Fairfield, High Street, Hill Bell, &c, would
be very likely to repay a more careful search than has
hitherto been made. Serratula tinctoria is plentiful
on the shores of the lake ; Carduus heterophyllus
grows in Troutbeck, Carlina vulgaris on Whitbarrow ;
Centaurea nigrescens is not unfrequent on dry banks ;
Bidens cernna is found in Crosthwaite ; Eupatorium
cannabinum is everywhere common ; G-naphalium
dioicum and sylvaticum are abundant, the former on
mountain heaths, the latter in woods ; Petastites
vulgaris is found in several places ; Senecio saraceni-
cus grows near Newby Bridge, and in some old
orchards, but it is probably not indigenous ; Inula
conyza is abundant on the Whitbarrow Fells.

Of Campanulaceae, Campanula latifolia is not unfrequent

FLOWEEINa PLANTS. 185

in woody places ; Jasione montana everywhere abun-
dant, and the larger form, which has been thought
by some to be a distinct species, is often seen in the
meadows ; Lobelia dortmanna grows in shallow water,
in almost every part of the lake.

Of Ericaceae, Vacinum myrtillus is found in nearly
every wood ; and V. oxycoccus in a few places ; V.
vitis-idea on Langdale Pikes ; Pyrola minor in Stock-
ghyll.

Of Jasminacese, Ligustrum vulgare grows wild in the
mountain woods.

Of G-entianaccse, Menyanthes trifoliata is not uncom-
mon in the bogs ; Polemonium cseruleum is found in
Graithwaite woods.

Of Scrophularianse, Digitalis purpurea is everywhere
most abundant and beautiful, ornamenting every hill
and dell with its splendid spikes of purple flowers
Verbena officinalis may be gathered on Whitbarrow.

Of Orobanchacese, Lathraea squamaria grows on Wans-
fell.

Of Lamiaceae, Lycopus europceus is found in a few
places, as is also Calamintha clinopodium ; Mentha
piperita grows on Whitbarrow ; M. sativa is not un-
common throughout the district ; Scutellaria minor
occurs in some of the bogs.

Of Boraginacese, Symphytum officinale is not uncom-
mon.

Of Pinguiculacese, Pinguicula vulgaris is very frequent
in damp places ; Utricularia vulgaris is also found.

Of Primulacece, Primula farinacea may be found in
many moist meadows : it is abundant on Wansfell,

186 FLOWEBING PLANTS.

and will be seen when ascending the mountain by
Stockghyll ; Lysimachia vulgaris, nummularia and
nemorum are common, the two former by the side of
the lake.

Of Plantaginaceae, Plantago media is common near
Kendal and on Whitbarrow ; Littorella lacustris
covers the margins and bottom of the lake, with a
perennial verdure.

Of Polygonaeese, Polygonum bistorta is common and
very ornamental in low meadows ; Oxyria reniformis
is found in Longsleddale, and elsewhere.

Of Thynelacese, Daphne laureola and mezereum have
been found in Rayrigg and Graythwaite woods.

Of Empetracese, Empetrum nigrum grows on the
higher fells.

Of Amentiferse, Carpinus betulus is not uncommon, but
probably not indigenous ; Salix pentandra occurs in
many places ; S. fragilis alba, viminalis, caprea and
aurita are common ; but we are not sufficiently ac-
quainted with this genus to mention all the species
around here.

Of Orchidaeese, Listera ovata is common, and L. cor-
data is found on Helvellyn : L. nidusavis is rare ;
Gymnadenia conopsea and Habenara bifolia are
very common ; Cypripedium calceolus has been
found on Whitbarrow ; and Epipactis latifolia, palus-
tris and ensifolia also grows there.

Of AmaryllidaceaB, Narcissus pseudo-narcissus is most
abundant, and in early spring makes many a bank
and woody glen yellow with its numerous flowers.

Of Liliacece, Allium carinatum is found in one locality ;

FERNS. 187

H. ursinum is very common ; H. schcenoprasum may
be found on Cartmel Fell ; Convallaria majalis grows
on some of the islands, but is becoming scarce from
I too frequent depredations ; in Eauncey woods, about
three miles below Newby Bridge, this plant is most
abundant and fine, covering some acres of ground ;
here also ma}^ be found the Fly orchis ; C. multiflora
abounds in Graythwaite woods, about two miles
north of Newby Bridge.

Of Trilliaceoe, Paris quadrifolia is found in many of
the shady woods.

Of Alismacece, Alisma plantago and ranunculoides are
plentiful in the lake.

Of Fluviales, Potamogeton prcelongus is found in many
parts of Windermere ; P. perfoliatus and hetero-
phyllus are very common.

Of Juncacece, Juncus glancus grows on Whitbarrow,
and J. triglumis on Fairfield.

Of Cyperacece, Eriophorum vaginatum is frequent in
mountain bogs ; Carex dioica, ovalis, riparia, pulicaris,
curta, remota, stricta, prcecox, vesicaria, and ampul-
lacea are common ; C. laevigata and sylvatica are
found in some places.

Of Grramina, Avena pubescens and flavescens, are com-
mon ; Festuca ovina var, vivipara is found ; Bromus
giganteus is very frequent ; B. asper and Sesleria
cyerulea grow on Whitbarrow ; Triticum caninum
may be seen in many places ; and Melica nutans is
found in some moist woods.

Of the Ferns —

Caterach officinarum, occurs on some walls, but is

188 FEBNS.

abundant and indigenous on Whitbarrow.

Polypodium vulgare grows very luxuriantly, and in
some shaded situations with a south aspect, assumes
a form resembling P. cambricum, but does not retain
its peculiar character under cultivation ; the variety
serratum, also grows in similar situations : it is very
handsome.

Polypodium phegopteris is more than usually common
in this district, and may be found in many woods
and often by the road sides ; P. dryopteris is not
quite so frequent, but by no means uncommon in
similar situations : it is very abundant in the woods
of Furness Fells.

Polypodium calcareum is common on Whitbarrow.

Allosorus crispus is not rare in stone walls or rocks, and
among loose stones, generally in high situations.

Cystopteris fragilis is very fine in some situations, but
is not abundant here ; a form is found which some-
what resembles C. regia.

Polystichum lonchitis has been found ; P. aculeatum is
common by rivulets, through mountain woods and
coppices, and its varieties lobatum and lonchitoides ;
P. angulare is less common, but may be found in
many warm shady ghylls and groves growing very
luxuriantly.

Lastrea oreopteris is very common ; the different forms
of L. dilatata abound; the variety called by Mr.
Newman L. collina, is not rare ; L. Spinu losa is to
be found in many wet woods; also in some open
bogs, and a few roots of a form of this species closely
resembling, if not identical with L. crista, have been

MOSSES. 189

found ; L. recurva occurs in a few places.

Athyrium felix-femina var rhoticum is not uncommon.

Asplenium viride is found on some of the mountain

screes, and is very abundant on Whitbarrow ; A.

Trichomanes, Adiantumnigrum and ruta-muria are

common, and A. marinum is found on Meathop, near

Witherslack.

Scolopendrium vulgare grows very fine in some sheltered

situations.
Blechnum boreale is common everywhere.
Hymenophyllnm Wilsoni is found in many dark fissures
in the rocks in high wooded fells, generally near a
stream.
Osmunda regalis is common and fine.
Botrychium lunaria is pretty frequent on high moun-
tain heaths.
Ophioglosum vulgatum is very scarce.

In giving an account of the ferns of Windermere,
the important discovery of Woodsia Ilvensis in West-
morland, although not in the immediate neighbourhood
of Windermere, ought to be mentioned. This rare
fern was found by Mr. Huddart, the nurseryman of
Waterloo Gardens immediately opposite Bowness, who
has some roots of it and of almost all the British
ferns in his possession.

All the British club mosses are found near Winder-
mere.

Lycopodium clavatum grows on most of the higher
fells ; L. annotium has been found in Langdale : L.
inundatum is not unfrequent on the margins of moun-
tain tarns ; L. alpinum grows on many heathy fell-

190 MOSSES.

sides ; L. selago in similar situations ; and L. selagi-

noides is common in rivulets in high situations.
Isoetes laustris is abundant in all parts of the lake, but

rather difficult to find, because it is nearly always in

deep water.
Equisetum palustre var, polystachyon is the only

uncommon Horsetail which has hitherto been found

here.

The common Mosses are abundant here, and some
species may be found which are very scarce in Great
Britain, and are only seen in some alpine or sub-alpine
districts. The Muscologist will be delighted with the
general appearance of this tribe of plants, their luxuri-
ance in some situations is truly wonderful. Among
the most rare may be mentioned
Zygodon mangestii, in crevices of rocks, without fruit,

on Kirkstone.
Gymnostomum rupestre, on wet rocks Helvellyn ; G.

Griffithanum on Red Screes, YVrynose and Fairfield.
Dyphisicum foliosum on rocks and crevices of rocks,

Eydal Park.
Weissia denticulata on rocks, Grasmere Fells ; W. ten-

uirostris, in Troutbeck and at Cook's House, near

Windermere.
Grimmia spiralis and tort a below Eed Screes, Kirkstone,

but not in fruit.
Orthotrichum rupincola on walls by Mardale and

Hawes water ; O. aristatum on trees in Eydal Park

and elsewhere.
Bryum julaceum in mountain rills, fruiting abundantly

in Kirkstone Pass and Wythburn beck ; B. albicans

MOSSES. 191

in mountain rills ; B. Ludwigii on wet rocks, Glara-
mara, not in fruit ; B. zierii in crevices of rocks and
on the ground, Bed Screes, Bydal Park and else-
where ; B. Alpinum common, on the mountains
usually barren ; B. uliginosum in a branch of the
Wythburn beck, High Raise ; B. accuminatum on
the eastern precipiece of Fairfield, between the sum-
mit and Bydal Head ; B. mnioides on Helvellyn.

Hypnum flagellare in rocky streams, Stockghyll, &e. ;
H. crista castrensis on banks above Troutbeck Park,
by the road over Kirkstone, Dove Craig, Fairfield,
Mardale, and Hawes Water.
Of those mosses which are rare, except in mountain

districts, may be mentioned as occuring abundantly

here,

Anictangium ciliatum, common on walls and rocks.

Anomodon curtipendulum very common, in some situ-
ations bearing fruit abundantly.

Bartramia pomiformis and halleriana are common ;
B. arcuata is found here, but rare in fruit.

Hypnum brevirostre is very abundant in woods ; H.
undulatum is very fine, and bears fruit in some high
woods, generally near waterfalls.

Nechera crispa is a great ornament to rather wet rocks.

Polytrichum alpinum and urnigerum are common, as
are also

Trichostomum acciculare, canescens, fasciculare, lanu-
ginosum and polyphyllum.

192 BOTANY.

CUMBEELAFD.

The Lake District, and the margin of comparatively
level land extending to the Cumberland shore, affords
such a scope for the natural production of plants as
few of the English counties possess.

The great diversity of altitude,^ and consequent
variety of climate ; the numerous and extreme changes
of mineral and vegetable soils ; the complete circuit of
aspect occasioned by the multiplicity and varied char-
acter of its hills and dales ; the perfect exposure to the
sea-breezes in some parts, and the exclusion from them
in others ; and the very different degrees of moisture
to which the district is subject, varying from nearly
160 inchesf of rain-fall per annum in one or two of the
mountain vales, to only about 24 inchesj in some of
the lowland levels, accommodate the growth of a great
variety of the British flora — the product of almost
every locality between extreme anglo-alpine and the
verge of the sea.

It is true that agricultural enterprise is quietly and
gradualy, but surely, diminishing the numbers of the
species ; and perhaps the monopolising avarice of pro-

* Scawfell Pike, the highest land in the county, is 3160 feet
above the level of the sea. — Me. Otley.

f At Borrowdale per Dr. Miller.
J Harraby, near Carlisle.

BOTANY. 193

fessed collectors * may aid the destructive progress not
a little, even to the total extermination of some plants.
Still, such a range of variety is found between the
littoral and alpine extremes of West Cumberland as
may fairly gratify the wishes of the true botanist.

It must be understood that these remarks, and the
following list of plants and localities, relate almost
exclusively to the Cumberland limits of the district ;
and that the botanical resources of that district have
been tolerably well explored by the writer for a length-
ened period. His endeavours have also been aided by
several friends (whose names are quoted) ; but it is
still possible that some of the floral treasures may have
been overlooked, or may yet remain undiscovered.
Those will be but few, and of course valuable when
their localities become known.

Many common plants are omitted from the list,
under the impression that what is open to every one's
eye needs no record ; and numerous localities are also
left out as redundant.

Perhaps no district, of the same limited extent,
furnishes a more numerous assemblage of Cryptogamic
plants ; — that least explored, but very beautiful de-
partment ; and which may be not inappropriately
called winter-botany.

A great proportion of the singular system of bloom-

* Only a year or two ago, one of this class being told of the
habitat of the rare Grammitis Ceterach, went and picked out of
the wall in which it grew, with the point of a knife, every plant !
Fortunately, some seeds had been deposited, and they have restored
the treasure.

194 BOTANY.

ing peculiar to this class is developed at the season
when most other vegetation is at rest, and therefore
uninteresting; here then may the zealous botanical
tourist still continue his study with as much ardour as
in the summer; and derive pleasure and edification
from the contemplation of the various gay or modest
tints of these minute works of the Creator, when
the casual observer will find nothing to attract his
attention from the general dreariness of a wintry
landscape.

Those who would acquaint themselves with the
mosses and linchens of the lake and mountain district,
will need some degree of perseverance and sure-
footedness in exploring the dark ravines and cavernous
fissures of the moist and slippery rocks, and of the
gloomy woods where these delight to grow ; and will
meet with perhaps the greatest variety, and those in
the highest perfection, where the sun shines seldomest
and the rain falls oftenest upon them. And it should
be remembered that no satisfactory progress can be
made in collecting and distinguishing the cryptogamia
when the plants are shrivelled by drought.

No little energy will be requisite, also, to hunt out
the linchens — some of which are found inhabiting
almost every rood of undisturbed ground from the
verge of the ocean, to the storm-beaten summits of the
highest mountains. And last, not least, very consider-
able patience is necessary to duly investigate and deci-
pher the microscopic stamp of family, so minutely, but
distinctly impressed upon every specific member of the
whole tribe of both mosses and linchens ; and a great

BOTANY. 195

many are too small to be accurately determined by the
naked eye. But to the enthusiast in botany, the pleas-
ing excitement of the pursuit, and the gratification of
the capture, well reward the fatigues of the search.

The subjoined list follows the order and nomen-
clature of Macgillivray's hand-book, to save the time
required to adapt it to the more recent alterations.
Salicornia herbacea, Ravenglass, Workington ; S. pro-

cumbens, Workington north shore.
Hippurus vulgaris, Dub mill.

Zostera marina, Bootle shore, brought up by the tide.
Chara flexilis, Whillimoor ; C. aspera, Harras Moor.
Callitriche verna, Whinlatter ; C. pedunculata, Enner-

dale.
Circsea alpina, Barrow side ; C. lutetiana, Keswick.
Veronica Anagallis, St. Bees and Ellen ; V. scutellata,
Ullock Moss ; Y. montana, Walla Crag ; V. hederi-
folia, Distington, Workington.
Pinguicula vulgaris, common in bogs.
Utricularia minor, Shoulthwaite Moss, Eskmeals.
Lycopus europceus, Kibton Hall. (Mr. Tweddle.)
Lemna minor, ponds in Whillimoor.
Fedia olitoria, Moresby Hall ; F. dentata, Frizington.
Scirpus lacustris, Lowes water Lake ; S. setaceous,
Ennerdale ; S. maritimus, Workington, (Mr. Twed-
dle) ; S. sylvaticus, banks of the Marron.
Eleocharis ccespitosus, Murton Moss ; E. pauciflorus,
Murton Moss ; E. fluitans, Cogra Moss in Lamp-
lugh ; E. palustris, Loweswater Lake ; E. multicaulis,
Ennerdale Lake ; E. acicularis, Egremont.
Eriophorum vaginatum, common in bogs ; E. angus-

196 BOTANY.

tifolium, Calder Ghylls and Edge Tarn ; polystachion,

Brigham Moss.
Catabrosa aquatica, Coulderton Shore — scarce.
Arundo Phragmites, River Derwent ; A. calamagrostis,

River Derwent ; A. arenaria, sea shore, Coulderton.
Rotbollia incurvata, Skate Dubs, Workington. (Mr.

Tweddle.)
Hordeum murinum, Flimby ; H. maritinum, Coulderton.
Triticum juncum, Bray stones.
Asperula odorata, Lodore Fall.
Galium crueiatum, Lamplugh, &c. ; G. palustre, Brack-

enthwaite, Lodore ; G. saxatile, St. John's vale ; G.

Mollugo, Croft on Hall, Pardshaw, &c. ; G. verum,

Tallantire, Lamplugh, Lodore ; G. boreale, Derwent

Lake shores, and river Irthing.
Plantago major, Arlecdon; P. media, Arlecdon and Egre-

mont ; P. maritima, Moota, Flimby and Gillerthwaite;

P. Coronopus, shore at Flimby, Ravenglass, &c.
Parietaria officinalis, Torpenhow Church.
Ruppia maritima, Cloffocks (Mr. Tweddle.)
Alchemilla alpina, Borrowdale Hause and Helvellyn.
Radiola Millegrana, var. maritima, Ehenside (Mr. G.

Chambers.)
Lithospermum officinale, Mosser; L. arvense, Stanger;

L. maritimum, Bootle Shore and Workington.'
Anchusa sempervirens; Gosforth, Sandwith.
Cynoglossum officinale, Flimby.
Lycopsis arvensis, St. Bees.
Primula elatior, Seaton, Lamplugh; P. veris, (red

variety), Egremont Clints ; P. farinosa, Wanthwaite

Mill, Caldbeck, and a dark red variety near Ireby-low.

BOTANY. 197

Lysimachia vulgaris, Keswick, Ennerdale, Lorton ; L.

nemorum, Castlehead Wood and Lamplugh.
Anagallis cerulea, Hensingliam Toll-bar.
Convolvulus arvensis, Fitz Toll-bar (Mr. Tweddle.) ; C.

Soldanella, Shore at Coulderton and Harrington.
Jasione montana, common.
Lobelia Dortmanna, nearly all the lakes.
Yiola lutea, Brigham.

Hyoscyamus niger, Cockermouth, Flimby, Harrington.
Atropa Belladonna, once plentiful around Egremont

Castle, but now only retained in a few gardens there.
Solanum Dulcamara, St. John's vale, Setmurthy.
Erythrcea Centaurium, Bootle, Distington, and a pure

white variety in Loweswater.
Samolus Valerandi, Coulderton Shore.
Lonicera Caprifolium, Lorton Hall (Mr. Tweddle) ; L.

X}dosteum, Workington Park (Mr. Tweddle.)
Rhamnus frangula, Ullock Moss (Mr. Otley).
Euonymus europseus, Lodore Woods.
Ribes rubrum, banks of the Derwent ; R. nigrum, ditto ;

R. Grossularia, limestone rocks at Sunderland.
Glaux maritima, Ravenglass, St. Bees.
Salsola Kali, Coulderton ; S. fruticosa, Ravenglass.
G-entiana Amorella, Tallantire Hill ; Gr. campestris, Tal-

lantire Hill, Workington Warren ; Gr. verna, till lately

on Egremont Green, perhaps now extinct.
Eryngium maritimum, common along the sea shores.
Hydrocotyle vulgaris, common in bogs.
Sanicula europoea, Wythop Woods.
Torilis nodosa, Bewaldeth — scarce.
Anthriscus vulgaris, Workington Bridge.

n2

198 BOTANY.

Choerophyllum sylvestre, Gillfoot and Whicham.

Daucus carota, Ravenglass.

Sium angustifolium, Drigg Haws ; S. nodiflorum, Gill

near St. Bees ; S* repens, Naddale ; S. verticillatum,

Naddale S. inundatum, Loweswater Lake.
Crithmum maritimum, St. Bees rocks.
Apium graveolens, Workington Marsh.
Imperatoria Ostruthium, Gilsland Woods.
Meum athamanticum, Fell End in Ennerdale (Dr.

Lawson.)
Pimpinella dioica, Tallantire Hill.
Cnidium Silaus, Seat on, Schoose Farm.
Sambucus Ebulus, Brackenthwaite, Scalelands.
Parnassia palustris, meadow and bogs, not rare.
Statice Armeria, Scawfell and sea shores ; S. Limonium,

sea shore near Bootle, &c. ; S. spathulata, St. Bees

Heads (Mr. Robson.)
Drosera rotundifolia, common in bogs ; D. longifolia,

Borrowdale (Mr. Tweddle) ; D. anglica Helvellyn

(Mr. J. Flintoft.)
Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus, Duddon Woods.
Allium arenarium, banks of the Derwent (Mr. Tweddle) ;

A. vineale, Bearpot near Workington ; A. ursinum,

Salter Hall.
Juncus filiformis, Crummock and Derwent Lakes. ; J.

J. ccenosus, Millom Marsh ; J. uliginosus, Working-

ington (Mr. Tweddle) ; J. triglumis, Helvellyn (Mr.

J. Flintoft.)
Luzula pilosa, common in woods ; L. Fosteri, woods

between the mountains and the sea; L. sylvatica,

banks of the Marron ; L. campestris, common on

BOTANY. 199

bare heaths ; L. congesta, common on bare heaths.

Peplis Portula, Harras Moor, Kinnisicle long Moor,
Calder Gills.

Oxyria reniformis, Ashness Grill.

Triglochin palustre, common at the edges of bogs ; T.
maritimum, Cloffocks.

Alisma plantago, Keswick Cass ; A. ranunculoides, Esk-
meals.

Epilobium hirsutum, river Eden and its tributaries.

Yaccinium Myrtillis, common on woods and on moun-
tains ; Y. uliginosum, Wardrew Moss, Moorside
Parks ; Y. vitis idcea, Skiddaw, Iron Crag, Swinside
Fell, &c. ; Y. oxycoccus, common in bogs.

Acer campestre, Mirehouse Woods.

Polygonum Bistorta, in meadows, and cultivated as a
pot herb ; P. viviparum, Helvellyn (Mr. J. Flintoft) ;
P. aviculare, Lodore road ; P. convolvulus, Bassen-
thwaite; P. amphibium, Dearham; P. Hydropiper,
Lodore,

Paris quadrifolia, woods in Lamplugh.

Andromeda polifolia, Moresby.

Arbutus uva-ursi, Bootle Fell (Rev. Isaac Hodgson),
Brackenthwaite (Mr. Wilson Robinson).

Pyrola rotundifolia, Walla Crag ; P. media, Kirklinton
Moors ; P. secunda, Helvellvn.

Chrysosplenium oppositifolium, common in wet woods ;
C. alternifolium, Portinscale Bridge.

Saxifraga stellaris, Helvellyn, Iron Crag, &c. ; S. nivalis,
Legberthwaite Grills ; S. oppositifolia, Borrowdale,
Wast water Screes (Mr. Robson) ; S. aizoides, Bar-
row Side, Grassmoor ; S. granulata, Harrington

n3

200 BOTANY.

Church ; S. tridactylites, Moota and Whicham ; S.
hypnoides, Armboth Fell, Shoulthwaite.

Scleranthus annuus, St. Bees, Knockmurton, Eskdale.

Saponaria officinalis, Derwent Side, near Workington
(Mr. Tweddle).

Silene inflata, Clifton, Dean Scales, &c. ; S. maritima,
Eskmeals, Brackenthwaite, Grange ; S. nutans, Dean,
Moorland Close; S. acaulis, Borrowdale.

Stellaria nemorum, Burdoswald, Moorside Hall.

Arenaria peploides, Seaton, Flimby ; A. serpyllifolia,
Pardshaw Hall, Cockermouth.

Cotyledon umbilicus, Ehenside, Gosforth.

Sedum Telephium, Castlehead, Millom ; S. album, Bray-
stones ; S. villosum, Mosedale ; S. anglicum, Beck-
cote ; S. acre, St. John's; S. sexangulare, Hunday Gate.

Lychnis alpina, Brackenthwaite Fells.

Cerastium tetrandum, Cockermouth ; C. alpinum, Hel-
vellyn (Mr. J. Flintoft).

Spergula nodosa, Lilly Hall (Mr. Tweddle).

Lythrum Salicaria, Ennerdale, Newlands, Beckermont.

Agrimonia Eupatoria, Lamplugh churchyard ; A. eupa-
toria var odorata, Lorton (Mr. W. Bobinson).

Reseda Luteola, Flimby, Eaglesfield, Workington.

Bosa rubella, Thirlwall ; B. spinosissima, plentiful on
the coast at Seascale, &c. ; B. Hibernica, Bracken-
thwaite ; B. Sabini, Derwent Bay ; B. villosa, Gils-
land ; B. tomentosa, Lamplugh ; B. canina, Lowes-
water ; B. arvensis, Whillimoor.

Bubus idseus, common ; B. ccesius, Tallantire ; B. cory-
lifolius, Arlecdon ; B. fruticosus, very common ; B.
rhamnifolius, Ulpha, Lowca, Flimby ; B. glandulo-

BOTANY. 201

sus, Pardshaw ; R. suberectus, Moorside Hall ; R.

saxatilis, Gilsland ; R. Chamcemorus, Styx moss.
Comarum palustre, common in meadow ditches.
Chelidonium majus, Kirkland, St. Bees.
Glaucium luteum, Elimby, Coulderton, Bootle snores.
Meconopsis Cambricum, Naddale.
Nymphcea alba, Mockerkin Tarn.
Nuphar lutea, Mockerkin Tarn, Bassenthwaite Lake,

Wormanby Lough.
Aqnilegia vulgaris, shore of Bassentbwaite Lake,

Dovenby.
Stratiotes aloides, Ennerdale Lake (Mr. Robson.)
Thalictrum minus, Side woods in Ennerdale ; T. majus,

Derwent Lake shores ; T. alpinum, Great End,

Scawfell (Mr. Robson.)
Ranunculus Lingua, Naddale beck, Wasdale and Esk-

dale (Mr. Robson) ; R. Flammula, common in cold

soils ; R. auricomus, Pardshaw ; R. hirsuta, Drigg,

Workington Marsh ; R. hederaceus, Lamplugh Hall,

Pardshaw ; R. aquatilis, St. Bees Moor.
Trollius europceus, Arlecdon Churchyard.
Helleborus viridis, Duddon Woods and Plumbland (Mr.

Tweddle.)
Mentha rotundifolia ; M. piperita ; M. hirsuta ; M.

gentilis, near Sykes in Naddale, in ditch sides.
Glechoma hederacea, Barrow Side.
Galeobdolon luteum, Crosedale.
Ballota nigra, Workington (Mr. Tweddle.)
Stachys annua, Lingbank, in Gosforth.
Leonurus Cardiaca, Workington Row (Mr. Tweddle.)
Clinipodium vulgare, Mockerkin, Papcastle.

202 BOTAKY.

Thymus Acinos, Low Lmgbank, Nethertown, (Mr.

Chambers) ; T. Calamintha, Calva Hall,
Scutellaria galericulata, Dub Beck, Braithwaite Beck ;

S. minor, Ladstocks in Thornthwaite.
Ehinanthus crista-galli var. majus, Chapel Bank, St.

Helens.
Melampyrum pratense, common in old woods.
Camelina sativa, Workington Mill field (1848 Mr.

Tweddle.)
Teesdalia nudicaulis, St. John's, Eaven- Crag, Thief

Gill in Dean.
Cochlearia officinalis, Coulderton Shore, Ties wick Bay ;

C. anglica, Workington Shore ; C. grcenlandica var.

alpina, rills on Helvellyn.
Senebiera coronopus, Seaton (Mr. Tweddle.)
Crambe maritima, Coulderton Shore.
Cakile maritima, Seaton Shore.
Cardamine hirsuta, elevated situations in Whillimoor ;

C. pratensis, common, sometimes double ; C. amare,

Moorside Woods, Bearpot (Mr. Tweddle.)
Arabis stricta, Lamplugh Hall, Pardshaw Hall; A.

hirsuta, Shoulthwaite, Moota.
Turritis glabra, Stainburn (Mr. Tweddle.)
Chieranthus fruticulosus, walls of Scaleby Castle.
Brassica Monensis, Flimby and St. Bees Shore.
Erodium cicutarium, Gosforth ; E. maritimum, St. Bees.
Geranium sylvaticum, St. John's vale; G. pratense,

Lamplugh ; G. rotundifolium, Yeorton Hall ; G.

pusillum, Etterby Scar ; G. Eobertianum, St. John's

vale; G. lucidum, Lodore Bridge: G. columbinum,

Cockermouth Fitz (Mr. Tweddle) ; G. sanguineum,

St. Bees Shores.

BOTANY. 203

Genista scoparia, Bridekirk ; G. tinctoria, Seaton, Tal-
lantire, Arlecdon ; G. anglica, Drigg, Bootle.

Ulex nana, Gosforth, Lamplugh Fells.

Anthyllis vulneraria, Maryport Railway.

Pisum maritimum, Harrington Rocks.

Lathyrus Nissolia, Irton, in sand.

Vicia sylvatica, Clifton Woods, Parton ; Y. angustifolia,
Stainburn, Santon.

Ornithopus perpusillus, Irton Church, St. Bees Moor.

Trifolium officinale, Workington Station, Etterby Scar ;
T. omithopodioides, Workington Warren (Mr. Twed-
dle) ; T. arvense, Flimby ; T. striatum, St. Bees
(Mr. Chambers) ; T. procumbens, Drigg ; T. fili-
forme, Gosforth.

Hypericum calycinum, Irton ; H. quadrangulum, Clif-
ton ; H. perforatum, Keswick Woods ; H. humifu-
sum, Lodore Fall ; H. hirsutum, Camerton, Clifton ;
H. pulchrum, Castlehead Woods ; H. elodes, Birker
Moor, Aitcha Moss.

Tragopogon pratensis, Bransty, Schoose.

Prenanthes muralis, Borrowdale, Ulpha.

Apargia autumnalis, Ennerdale.

Hieracium subaudum, Ennerdale, in side woods; H.
umbellatum, Kirkland How.

Crepis tectorum, Woodcock Nook, near Egremont (Mr.
Chambers.)

Serratula tinctoria, Embleton, Lorton.

Saussuria alpina, Helvellyn (Mr. J. Flintoft.)

Carduus acanthoides, Carlisle Castle.

Cnicus heterophyllus, Armboth, Watendlath; C.
acaulis, Barrow Side, Hardknot.

204 BOTANY.

Carlina vulgaris, Ennerdale.

Bidens cernua, Braithwaite, Cloffocks (Mr. Tweddle) ;

B. tripartita, Keswick Cass, Bootle.
Gnaphalium divicum, Helvellyn ; Gr. germinicum,

Drigg ; Gr. rectum, base of Helvellyn ; Gr. uligino-

sum, Arlecdon ; Gr. minimum, Fieldhead in Eskdale ;

Gr. gallicum, Drigg, Gosfortn.
Senecio tenuifolius, Little Broughton ; S. saracenicus,

Moresby, Sebergham.
Aster Tripolium, Eskholm, Holborn Hill.
Solidago Virgaurea, Scalehill.

Inula Helenium, Mosser ; I. dysenterica, St. Bees Heads.
Pyrethrum Parthenium, Nether Hall.
Matricaria chamomilla, Sylcroft.
Anthemis maritima, Coulderton.
Centaurea Scabiosa, Eaglesfield.
Orchis bifolia, Whillimoor ; O. pyramidalis, common ;

O. mascula, common, Dovenby, &c. ; 0. albida, Little

Brought on (Mr. W. Robinson) ; 0. viridis, Murton

Moss.
G-ymnadenia conopsea, Wanthwaite, St. John's, Moota.
Listera ovata, common ; L. cordata, Castlerigg Fell,

Melbreak ; L. nidus-avis, Flimby Wood, Wood Hall.
Epipactis latifolia, Dean Scales, Bridgefoot.
Euphorbia Peplus, Egremont, Bootle Station; E.

exigua, Bridgefoot ; E. helioscopia, G-osforth ; E.

portlandica, Braystones (Mr. Chambers) and Drigg

shores ; E. paralia, Haverigg and Harrington shores.
Typha latifolia, Naddale, Crofton, Chapel Sucken,

Brayton.
Sparganium ramosum, Portinscale, Naddale ; S. sim-

BOTANY. 205

plex, Harras Moor ; S. natans, Shoulthwaite Moss.

Carex dioica, Orgill ; C. pulicaria, Hunday ; C. arenaria,
Harrington shore ; C. vulpina, Yeorton Hall ; C.
limosa var. irrigua, Gilsland, rare ; C. pallescens, Sel-
lafield ; C. flava, Hardknot ; C. extensa, Marron Side ;
C. stricta, Bullgill Bridge ; C. riparia, Stubbin Mire ;
C. vesicaria, Braithwaite ; C. ampullacea, Cocker
Side ; C. nliformis, Workington (Mr. Tweddle.)
Many otber Carices grow within the district.

Littorella lacustris, Derwent Lake, Wythbnrn.

Urtica urens, Distington, Ullock.

Myriophyllum spicatum, Naddale.

Sagittaria sagittifolia, Braystones Tarn (Mr. Eobson.)

Arum maculatum, Wood Hall, Branthwaite.

Betula alba, var. pendulosa, round Derwent Lake.

Salix herbacea, Skiddaw top. Upwards of thirty
species over West Cumberland.

Empetrum nigrum, moors and bogs.

Humulus Lupulus, Keswick, Egremont.

Tamus communis, Millom, Eskdale.

Rhodiola rosea, Ennerdale Coves and Pillar Fell.

Taxus baccata, very large trees in Borrowdale.

Atriplex laciniata, St. Bees and Harrington shores ; A,
patula, Workington north shore.

Isoetes lacustris, Derwent Lake.

Subularia aquatica, Ennerdale Lake (Mr. Eobson.)

Polypodium vulgare, common ; P. Phegopteris, Esk-
dale, Ulpha, Braithwaite ; P. Dryopteris, Legber-
thwaite, Dean.

Aspidium oreopteris, Ponsonby Fell, Ulpha ; A. loba-
tum, Flimby, Walla Crag, Caldbeck; A. angulare,

206 BOTANY.

Whicham ; A. spinulosum, Keswick, &c. ; A. dilata-

tum, Keswick, &c.
Cystea fragilis, St. Bees Moor ; C. dentata, Naddale,

Braithwaite, Whillimoor.
Asplenium Trichomanes, Carleton, &c. ; A. viride,

Castlerigg Fell, river Irthing ; A. marinum, St. Bees

Heads ; A. ruta-muraria, common ; A. septentrionale,

Borrowdale, near Lorton (Mr. W. Robinson) ; A.

Adiantum nigrum, common.
Scolopendium vulgare, common in dark ravines ; S. var.

multifidum, Dearham ; S. var. crispum, Catgill Hall.
Grammitis ceterach, Sandwith, Mosser, Gosforth, &c.
Blechnum boreale, common.

Allosurus crispus, Wasdale, Ponsonby, Lamplugh.
Hymenophyllum Wilsoni, Scale Force, Ponsonby ; H.

Tunbridgense, Ponsonby Hall.
Osmnnda regalis, Millom, Irton, Egremont, Ullock

Moss.
Botrycbim Lunaria, not rare on dry pastures.
Opbioglossum, rather common.
Lycopodium clavatum, common on fells and moors ; L.

inundatum, Shoulthwaite, Wasdale ; L. Selaginoides,

L. Selago, Hardknot, Helvellyn, &c. ; L. annotinum,

near Bowfell (Mr. J. Flintoft) ; L. alpinum, Stye

Head, &c.
Equisetum arvense, common; E. fiuviatile, Flimby,

Salter Hall, Parton Bocks ; E. sylvaticum, Watend-

latb, &c. ; E. palustre, Cold Fell (Mr. Eobson) ; E.

variegatum, Gilsland, in the Irthing.

DIRECTORY.

The Address is that required by Postal arrangement. The name of the head
office should he inserted at the end of each address, to ensure the regular
transit of communications from a distance.

WINDERMERE.

(Head

Atkinson, James, lodging-house,

Villa Lodge.
Aufrere, Geo., Ant. Esq., Burnside
Ball, James, railway clerk.
Balmer, Michael, Oak Bank,

lodging-house.
Balmer, Grace, laundress, Old

Field.
Barrow, R., Elim Grove.
Barrow, B., yeoman, The Grove.
Barrow, Boger, Langdale View.
Barrow, John, lodging-house,

Woodside Cottage.
Battershy, Miss, lodging house,

Bowness Road.
Bell, James, tinman, Cross-street
Benson, Mrs., lodging-house,

Bowness Road.
Benson, W., Esq., Dove Nest.
Birkett Mrs., lodging house,

Elim Grove.
Birkett, J., Esq., Birkett Houses
Bradford, Earl of, St. Catherine's
Braithwaite, R., Esq., Bingle.
Brockhank, John, lodging house,

Bowness Road.
Brooks, Thomas, tailor and dra-
per, High-street.

Office.)

Brownrigg, John, joiner, Bow-
ness Road.

Brockbank, John, confectioner,
Bowness Road.

Bryans, James, Esq., J.P., Bel-
field.

Burnett, Rev Dr., Bowness Road

Capstick, William, butcher,
Cross-street.

Cartmell, William, joiner, Hazle-
thwaite Cottage.

Carter, Geo., artist, Elim Grove

Clowes, Frederick, Esq., surgeon,
Holly Hill.

Cowperthwaite, Christopher,
painter, &c, Church-street.

Craston, Miles, grocer, Bowness
Road.

Crewdson, Geo. B., Esq., The
Terrace.

Crosthwaite, Samuel, artist,
Chapel House, Bowness Road.

Crosthwaite, Thomas, yeoman,
Allis How.

Davies, Mrs., grocer, Church-st.

Dickinson, R. farmer, Winster.

Dixon, Miss, dressmaker, Bow-
ness Road.

O

208

DIRECTORY.

WINDERMERE.

Eastted, William, Esq., Elleray.

Edwards, Geo. T., Esq., Belmont

Eglin, George, T., Post-office,
Winster.

Elleray, Stephen, Winster.

Elleray, T., Winster.

Elleray, John, yeoman, Heath-
waite.

Fell, Geo., yeoman, Common.

Field, John, Esq., Cross-street.

Fleming, John, farmer, Ecclerigg

Fleming, Mrs., lodging house,
Villa Lodge.

Fox, George, Esq., Windermer
Terrace.

Gandy, John, Esq., Oakland.

Garnett, John, railway superin-
tendent,— Printer, bookseller,
&c, Post-Office.

Gardner, Geo. H., Esq., solicitor,
EHerthwaite.

Greaves, Mrs., Ferney Green.

Greaves, Joseph, Esq., Birth-
waite Lodge.

Graves, Rev. Robert P, Dove
Nest.

Greg, Wm. R., Esq., The Craig.

Gregg, B., cordwainer, Elim
Grove.

Harrison, Eldred, Esq., Winder-
mere Terrace.

Harrison, Wm., joiner, High-st.

Harrison, Mrs. Fancy Reposi-
tory, High-street.

Hay ton, John, joiner and grocer,
Bowness Road.

Hayton, Richard, lodging house
keeper & joiner, Bowness Road

Herd, Thomas, grocer, Bowness
Road.

Holmes, John, Grocer, High-st.

Hornby, Rev. Jas. J., Wansfell.

Holmes, Wm., surgeon, Cleator
Lodge.

Holt, George, Esq., Orrest Head.

Howlett, Rev. Fred., Winster.

Hudson, E. L., Esq., surgeon
hydropathist.

Humber, John, Esq., St. Mary's
Cottage.

Hutchinson, Isaac, farmer, Com-
mon.

Hutchinson, Robt., No. 2, Rail-
way Terrace.

Irving, B. A., MA., St. Mary's
College.

Jones, Robert, Esq., Elim Grove.

Kennedy, Peter, Esq., Fair View.

Ladyman, George, teacher, High
Bowness.

Leighton, Miles, shoemaker,
High-street.

Livesey, Jos., Esq., Green Bank.

Logan, Robert, Low Wood Hotel.

Longmire, J., farmer, Banrigg.

Longmire, R., butcher, Lick-
barrow.

Lowe, Myles, grocer, Old-road.

Macdougall, Mrs., North View.

Marriott, Miss, St. Mary's Abbey.

Marriott, Mrs., Oakthorpe.

Medcalf, Richard, builder.

Melvillve, Thomas, agent, Storrs.

Meyer, Miss, Holbeck Cottage.

Mitchell, Robert, blacksmith,
Cross-street.

Mounsey, George, slater, Elim
Grove.

Mounsey, W., joiner, Cross-st.

Newby, Jas., gardener, Elleray.

Parrington, J., farmer, Dromer.

Pattinson, Miss Betty, Wood-
land Grove.

Pattinson, Abraham, builder,
Elim Grove.

Pattinson, John, lodging-house,
Elim Grove.

Pearson, Mrs., Briery Close.

Postlethwaite, Robert, joiner,
Bowness Road.

DIRECTORY. — BOWNESS.

209

Pasley, Sir T. S., Craig Foot.
Puckle,G. Hale, M.A., St. Mary's

College.
Richardson, Stephen, Village Inn
Rigg, Richard, Windermere

Hotel.
Robinson, Miss, lodging-house,

Howe Villa.
Salkeld, James, shoemaker,

High-street.
Scholes, Mrs., Annesdale.
Scott, James, Victoria Hotel.
Shrigly, Miss, Langdale View.
Sheldon, Wm., coach-proprietor,

Highfield,
Sill, John, flour & butter dealer,

Winster.
Somervell, Robert M., Esq.,

Halzthwaite.
Staniforth, Rev. Thomas, Storrs

Hall.
Sternberg, Baroness de, Belsfield
Swann, Napthali, grocer, Win-
dermere House.

Swain, Jos., shoemaker, Cross-st.
Swinburne, Edward, Esq., Cal-

garth Park.
Taylor, B., shoemaker, Wiuster.
Taylor, John H., Esq., solicitor.
Taylor, Mrs. 1. h., Rock Side.
Taylor, Samuel, Esq., (J.P.)

Ibbotsholme.
Tyson, Miss, lodging house,

Rock Side.
Ullock, Thomas, Esq., Quarry

How.
Warwick, Thomas, blacksmith,

Bowness Road.
Watson, Misses, Mylnbeck.
Watson, R. Luther, Esq., Eccle-

rigg.
Wilson, J., farmer, Cook's House
Wilson, Capt., R.N., (J.P.) The

Howe.
Wilkinson, Rev. H. J., Rectory.
Wright, Henry, lodging-house,

Bowness Road.
Yates, Miss Jane, The Wood.

BOWNESS.

Airey, John, farmer, Cleabarrow
Allen, James, grocer and draper
Armstrong, David, Museum.
Atkinson, John, grocer & draper
Atkinson, James, saddler.
Atkinson, J., waller, Millbeck

Stock.
Barker, H., tailor and draper.
Barrow, James, joiner.
Barrow, R., yeoman.
Battersby, Thomas, gardener.
Batter sby, Thomas, joiner.
Beetham, Ann, dressmaker.
Belcher, Lucy, bazaar.
Benson, Robert.
Birkett, W., gardener.
Blaylock, William, grocer.
Bownass, WiUiam, Royal Hotel.

Brockbank, William, carter.

Burton, Thomas, tailor.

Butcher, Mrs.

Braithwaite, John, boatman.

Barton, Miss.

Brockbank, John, painter.

Cloudsdale, Thomas, Crown
Hotel.

Collinson, John, Esq., Brantfell

Crosthwaite, Joseph, joiner.

Crosthwaite, John, grocer.

Curwen, Henry, Esq., Belle Isle.

Cloudsdale, Williaro, fisherman.

Campbell, William, shoemaker.

Dickinson, R., Belfield Farm.

Dickinson, J., lodging-house,

Dixon, Thomas, yeoman, Bel-
man Ground.

o2

210

DIRECTORY. — BOWJSTESS.

Dixon, Ann, upholsterer.

Dobson, William, blacksmith,
lodging-house keeper.

Dobson, J., blacksmith.

Eccles, Thomas, post-messenger.

Eccles, K., joiner.

Fisher, James, lodging-house.

Fletcher, Joseph, cabinet-maker

Garnett, Edward, land-agent.

Gawith, John, carrier.

Gibson, G. Henry, Esq.

Gill, Dawson, ostler,

Gregg, Reginald, grocer.

Gregg, George, carrier.

Hadwin, J., cordwainer.

Harrison, J., beerhouse keeper.

Harrison, W., Brantfell.

Hartley, Thomas.

Herdson, J., High House.

Hiley, Mrs. M.

Hoggarth, Mary.

Holmes, Miss, milliner.

Holloway, William H., Esq.,
Waterside Cottage.

Holt, Frederic, gardener.

Jacob, Capt., Rayrigg.

Kendall, George, painter.

Kirkbride, Charles.

Kirkbride, William, fisherman.

Lockett, Allen, lodging-house.

Longmire, Thomas, beerhouse.

Long, Miss, milliner.

Martin, John, beerhouse keeper.

Martin, Mrs., innkeeper.

Martindale, W., farmer, Barker
Knot.

Mattix, Mrs., Berlin wool re-
pository.

Millray, M. H., gardener, Bels-
field.

Moon, James, yeoman.

Moon, Tobias, basket-maker,
Belman Houses.

Newby, Christopher, coal-agent.

Parker, Miss, milliner.

Poole, Abraham, Tower Wood.

Redman, John, lodging-house.

Reid, Robert, saddler.

Richardson, J., Commercial Inn.

Richardson, T., farmer, Helm.

Rigg, Ellen.

Robinson, Agnes.

Robinson, Agnes, Fell Side.

Robinson, Ann, glass-dealer.

Robinson, Robert, cordwainer.

Robinson, R. James, lodging-
house.

Robinson, Thomas, tailor.

Robinson, William, waller.

Robinson, G., lodging-house.

Robinson, John, Lindeth.

Robinson, John, boatman.

Robinson, William, senr., joiner
and bath-house keeper.

Robinson, William, junr., joiner
and bath-house keeper.

Sabin, George, lodging-house.

Searle, H. lodging-house.

Sewell, Mrs., Fallbarrow.

Shaw, T., gardener.

Simpson, John, corn and fiour
dealer.

Sowerby, Luke, basket-maker.

Stables, W., farmer.

Stewardson, R., beerhouse keeper

Stewardson, John, gardener.

Stringer, John, lodging-house.

Stringer, Henry, druggist.

Suart, Wm., junr., auctioneer.

Swainson, William, schoolmaster,
Winster.

Tallon, Miss, confectioner.

Taylor, J., farmer, Low House.

Taylor, T., boat-builder, Low
House.

Thompson, Isaac, beerhouse
keeper.

Thompson, J., Esq., Bay Villa.

Turner, R., basket-maker, Mill-
beck Stock.

DIRECTORY.

JSTEWBY BRIDGE.

211

Walker, A., beerhouse keeper.
Walker, Thomas, lodging-house.
Waters, George, ironmonger.
Webber, Lieut., Old England.
Wharton, J., hairdresser.
Wildman and Holmes, joiners

and builders.
Wilkinson, William, blacksmith.

Wilkinson, Rev. H. J., Rectory.
Wilman, William, plumber, &c.
Wilson, Robert, farmer, Miller-
ground.
Wright, W. James, Windy Hall.
Wood, Jos., Temperance Hotel.
Wood, Robert, beerhouse keeper.
Woof, Joseph, gardener.

NEWBY BRIDGE.

Ainsworth, T., Esq., cotton
manufacturer, Backbarrow.

Astley, F. D. P., Esq., Fell Foot

Backhouse, Simpson, farmer,
Finsthwaite.

Barrow, Thomas.

Burns, J., farmer, Backbarrow.

Bateman, Thomas, Beck Hire,
beerhouse keeper and farmer.

Bingland, Rev. J., Esq., Fins-
thwaite.

Braithwaite, Thomas, beerhouse
keeper, Finsthwaite,

Carter, John, grocer, Staveley.

Carter, Wm., hoop-maker and
farmer, Finsthwaite.

Clarke, Miles, yeoman, Staveley.

Cormic, William, Esq., Cunsey.

Crow, Mark, farmer, Graith-
waite.

Dixon, W., farmer, Cunsey.

Fell, John, Esq., Scott Park.

Fell, John, farmer, Finsthwaite.

Fell, John, blacksmith.

Fell, Christopher, bobbin manu-
facturer, Cunsey.

Fleming, D., Staveley.

Furness, W., Esq., Newby Bridge

Harrison, John, farmer and bas-
ket maker.

Anslie Harrison and Co., Iron
Works, Backbarrow.

Harrison, Mrs., Landing.

Kellett, Wm., carter, Landing,

Kirkby, James, grocer & butcher
Backbarrow.

Kirkbride, Robert, farmer, Fins-
thwaite.

Lewthwaite, G., Esq., Scott Park

Martin, Joseph, farmer and land
agent, Blakeholmes.

Pedder, John, Esq., Finsthwaite
House.

Preston, W., farmer, Town End.

Revley, M., farmer, Graithwaite

Rigg, H. F., Esq., Staveley.

Robinson, Wm., farmer, Scott
Park.

Rowlandson, Joshua, quarryman,
Town Ward.

Rowlandson, James, yeoman,
Backbarrow,

Sandys, J. D., Esq., Graithwaite

Steele, Christopher, shoemaker,
Backbarrow.

Swainson, John, yeoman Helm
Well, Cunsey.

Swainson, Jos., farmer and hoop
maker, Cunsey.

Turner, J., farmer, Finsthwaite.

Townley, E., Esq., Town Head.

Welsh, Richard, coal dealer,
Backbarrow.

Wharton, W., bobbin manufac-
turer, Scott Park

White, Thomas, Swan Hotel.

Wren, John, joiner and builder.

o3

212

DIRECTOKY. — TROTJTBECK.

SAWREY.

Arnold, James, Ferry Hall.
Apsland, T. Lindsey, Esq., artist,

Sawrey Cottage.
Atkinson, E., hoop maker, Satter

How.
Atkinson, John, Spont House.
Carradns, Barrow, farmer, Spout

Mire.
Carradus, M., farmer, Harrow

Slack.
Clark, Thomas, farmer, Satter

How.
Cowburn, Mrs., Chapel Cottage.
Cowpland, Mr., schoolmaster.
Creighton, Thomas, farmer, Fold.
Dixon, J., grocer, Post Office.
Forrest, Mrs. M., farmer, Briers.
Forrest, John, yeoman, Low

House.
Forrest, Mrs. Henry, widow.
Garnett, Joseph, Esq., Howend

Cottage.
Halstead, W., Esq., Mount

Cottage.
Hartley, Richard, New Inn.
Hawkrigg, T., blacksmith.

Hawkrigg, Braithwaite, yeoman.
Hawkrigg, Hugh, yeoman, Castle
Herdson, William, butcher.
Huddart, J., seedsman, Waterloo

Gardens.
Jackson, G., farmer, Eel House.
Ogden, Jonathan R., Esq., (J.P.)

Lakefield.
Preston, William, farmer, Hill

Top.
Smith, William, hoop maker.
Smith, Elizabeth, grocer.
Stalker, John, grocer.
Stalker, Jonathan, beer-house

keeper.
Stalker, Jonathan, basket maker,
Stalker, W., boatman.
Taylor, Joseph, yeoman, Buckle

Heat.
Taylor, Thomas, shoemaker.
Taylor, John, joiner.
Towers, W., yeoman, Towerbank.
Towers, Mrs., Sawrey House.
Willan, Thomas, spirit merchant.
Willison, Ann, schoolmistress.

TROUTBECK.

Beaumont, Thomas, farmer, Crag Birkett, Robert, yeoman, Mid-

dleriggs.

Braithwaite, James, yeoman,
Town Foot.

Braithwaite, Elizabeth, school-
mistress, Mathew How.

Braithwaite, John, mechanic,
Troutbeck Bridge.

Brownrigg, George, joiner, Beck-
side.

Browne,Harrison,yeoman,Druin-
mermire Head.

Browne, Mrs. Lucy, Town End.

Benson, Anthony, yeoman, Coat

Syke.
Benson, William, farmer, Low

Longmire.
Benson, Thomas, yeoman, High

Green.
Benson, John, yeoman, Crosses.
Bigland, John, farmer, near

Borrans.
Birkett, William, yeoman, Town

Head.
Birkett, Thomas, yeoman, Great

House.

DIRECTORY. — AMBLESIDE.

213

Browne, Richard, farmer, Low

Wood,
Brown, Benjamin, yeoman, Boot.
Coffee, Jeremiah, tailor, Crag.
Dawson, Mrs., Crag House.
Fell, Robert H., bobbin maker,

Troutbeck Bridge.
Forrest, Birkett, yeoman, Low

House.
Forrest, Matthew, farmer, Low

Skelgill.
Green, Elizabeth, innkeeper,

Mortal Man.
Harrison, Thomas, schoolmaster,

Crag.
Hartley, William, farmer, Trout-
beck Park.
Hayton, George, joiner, Town

Head.
Hopkirk, James, Brow Head.
Hunter, Thos. farmer, Town Head
Hutchinson, John, Esq., Broad

Oaks.
Jenkinson, Thomas, yeoman,

near Orrest.
Kennedy, Simon, letter carrier.
Lancaster, Henry, bootmaker,

Longmire Gate.
Lancaster, Thos. bootmaker, Lane
Leather, Thomas, tailor & draper,

Mathew How.
Lingard, J. R., Esq., Holeherd.
Longmire, James, farmer, Orrest
Longmire, W., churchwarden,

Crosses.
Longmire, John, yeoman, Long-
mire. I

Longmire, J., yeoman, Butt Hill.

Mackereth, Benson, innkeeper,
Queen's Head.

Mackereth, W., yeoman, High
Fold.

Mounsey, William, relieving
officer, and registrar of births
and deaths, High Fold.

Parker, Wm., farmer, Limefit.

Pool, Joseph, yeoman, Slack Foot

Postlethwait, James, innkeeper,
Troutbeck Bridge.

Rigg, George, blacksmith, Long-
mire Gate.

Sewell, Rev. William, Low Fold.

Stainton, Thomas, farmer, Town
Head.

Storey, Thomas, yeoman, High
Green.

Storey, Alison, farmer, Lane Foot

Storey, George, waller, Lane Foot

Storey, Christopher, fanner,
Brow Top.

Thompson, J., innkeeper, Kirk-
ham Top.

Todd, George, farmer, Long
Green Head.

Todd, James, farmer, Crag.

Townson, Richard, farmer, Mid
Town.

Tyson, Thomas, farmer, High
Skelgill.

Tyson, Isaac, farmer, Town Head

Wilson, Nicholas, yeoman, Town
End.

Wilson, Nicholas, jun., farmer,
Town End.

AMBLESIDE.

Abbott, John, saddler, coach
office and lodging house,
Fairfield.

Arnold, Mrs., widow of the late
Dr. Arnold, Fox How.

Atkinson, James, joiner, and
lodging-house keeper, Fisher
Beck.

Atkinson, J., saddler, &c, Mar-
ket Place.

214

DIRECTORY.

AMBLESIDE.

Atkinson, William, shoemaker.

Backhouse, James, farmer and
lodging-house keeper, Rydal.

Ball, William, Esq., Glen Rothay

Barrow, John, farmer, Hawks-
head Hill.

Barwick, John, surgeon.

Barwick, Thomas, carpenter.

Barrow, John, joiner.

Barton, Mrs., milliner.

Barton, William, schoolmaster.

Banks, G., upholsterer.

Barkworth, Alfred, Esq., Tranby
Lodge.

Beck, James, farmer, Mire Side,
Skelwith.

Bell, Catherine, stay maker.

Bell, R. F., ironmonger.

Bell, Thos., chemist & druggist.

Bell, J., miller.

Benson, H., blacksmith, Blue Hill

Bonney, Richard, plumber.

Brenchley, Alexander C, Esq.,
Wanlass How.

Brown, John, Commercial Hotel.

Brocklebank, Benjamin, farmer,
Stang End.

Birkett, George, cooper.

Backhouse, Wm., tanner, Round
Hill.

Carr, Thomas, Esq., Hill Top.

Carter, John, Esq., Rydal Mount

Clark, Miles, grocer.

Claude, Mrs. L., Broadlands.

Clay, Rev. J., Miller Bridge.

Cleminson, James, solicitor.

Clough, Mrs., Ladies* Seminary,
Eller How.

Conway and Henshall, milliners.

Cookson, Miss, Clappersgate.

Cookson, Isaac, shoemaker.

Cousins, Henry, joiner.

Coward, John, joiner and lodging-
house keeper, Beech Cottage.

Coward, Wm., tailor and draper

Coward, Jeremiah, painter.

Coward, Jere., innkeeper, miller,
and grocer, Skelwith Bridge.

Coward, John, bobbin manufac-
turer, Skelwith Bridge.

Cowperthwaite, George, farmer,
Clappersgate.

Creighton, John, yeoman, Low
Park.

Creighton, Joseph, blacksmith.

Crewdson, William Dillon, Esq.,
Field Foot.

Crosley, John, farmer, Hawks-
head Hill.

Crosfield,John,Esq.,RothayBank

Davy, John, Esq., M.D., Lesketh
How.

Dawson, Thomas, waller.

Dawson, James, Esq., (J.P.)
Wray Castle.

Dawson, Miss, Randy Pike.

Dawson, D., farmer, High Park.

Dickinson, Miss, Nook End.

Dobson, Mrs., lodging house,
Prospect Cottage.

Donaldson, P., Salutation Hotel.

Dove, Charles, farmer, postman,
and fishmonger, Low Fold.

Dowling, Miss, Hill Top.

Dobson, , Esq., Rothay

Cottage.

Fell, Rev. S. L, Sweden How.

Fell, William, Esq., surgeon.

Fisher, Robert, lodging house,
Stock Cottage.

Fisher, Robert, joiner.

Fisher, John, farmer.

Fleming, Mark, boot and shoe
maker.

Fleming, Rev. Fletcher, incum-
bent, Rydal Lodge.

Fleming, Lady le, Rydal Hall.

Fleming, Mrs., draper & milliner

Forrest, Mrs., lodging house,
Windermere Lodge.

DIRECTORY. — AMBLESIDE.

215

Foster, Miss, Wray Cottage.

Frearson, Rev. S., baptist mini-
ster, Hawkshead Hill.

Garside, Samuel, painter.

Gibson, Mrs., grocer.

Gibson, William, tallow chandler

Gill, Miss, Oak Bank.

Gill, Jane, dress and stay maker

Grave, Mrs., Oxenfell.

Green, Mrs., Gale Cottage.

Green, James, butcher and lodg-
ing house keeper, Fisher Beck

Grier, John, florist and seedsman

Hodgson, John, farmer, Hawks-
head Hill.

Harrison, Matthew, Esq., (J.P.)
Belle View.

Harrison, John, Esq., The Green

Harrison, Mrs., lodging-house,
Chapel Cottage.

Harrison, Benson, Esq., (J.P.)
Scale How.

Hawley, Capt. R., Rock Cottage.

Hawkrigg, Michael, mason.

Hawkrigg, Js., yeoman, Skelwith

Hawkrigg, Joseph, farmer, Park
House, Skelwith.

Hayse, Robert, gardener and
seedsman.

Head, Miss, Miller Bridge.

Herd, Edward, watch maker.

Higgins, Miss, Fancy Repository

Hodgson, Rev. William, Old
Brathay.

Holme, John, tailor.

Holme, William, bread baker.

Holme, Jas., Esq., Crofb Lodge,
Clappersgate.

Hopkinson, B., Esq., The Oaks.

Horrax, Charles, bobbin manu-
facturer.

Irving, Mrs., lodging house
keeper, Rydal.

Irving, William, cooper, Hawks-
head Hill.

Jackson, Mrs., Waterhead House
Jackson, Henry, Royal Oak Inn
Jackson, Mrs., Newfield Cottage
Jackson, Thomas, carter and

coal agent.
Jackson, Arthur, mason andlodg-

inghouse-keeper, Rose Cottage
Jenkinson, Wm., bread baker.
Jameson, Miss, Smithy Brow.
Johnson, Mrs.,E., lodging-house,

Chapel Hill.
Kitchen, Edward, basket maker,

Low Fold.
Lancaster, Mary, butcher.
Leighton, George, plumber, &c.
Lutwidge, Capt. H., R.N., The

Cottage.
Mackereth, Thomas, farmer.
Martin, Richard, lodging-house

keeper, Chapel Hill.
Martineau, Mrs. Harriet, The

Knoll.
Mason, Miss, dress maker.
Matty, Robert, tailor and draper
Mayson, Bryan, plasterer and

lodging house.
Morse, Miss, Gale Lodge.
Nelson, Christopher, draper.
Newby, James, draper, bank.
Newton, George Law, wine and

spirit merchant, Waterhead.
Newton, Mary, draper and mil-
liner.
Nicholson, John, Esq., solicitor.
Nicholson, Mrs. Agnes, stationer,

Post Office.
Noble, James, painter.
Okill, Miss, Sweeden Bank.
Parker, John, slate merchant,

Hodge Close.
Partridge, George, Esq., Covey

Cottage.
Pedder, Mrs., Gale House.
Peill, William, hooper, cooper,

and grocer.

Q

216

DIRECTORY.

AMBLESIDE.

Pritchard, Mrs., bread baker.
Preston, Thomas, farmer, Mill

Brow, Skelwith Bridge.
Proctor, Jonathan, lodging house,

Hill Side Cottage.
Quillinan, Misses, Loughrigg

Holme.
Redmayne, Giles, Esq., Brathay

Hall.
Reynolds, M.,Esq., Ghyll Cottage
Richards, John, boot & shoemaker
Riddle, Mrs., lodging house,

Five-ways House.
Robinson, William, flag-merchant

Blue Hill.
Ridgway, Mrs., Low Field.
Robinson, Bryan, farmer, Rock

Cottage.
Roberts, Christopher, farmer,

Ellers Brow, Skelwith.
Robinson, Mason, clerk, Gun-
powder Works, Elterwater.
Robinson, John, Esq., manager

of the Elterwater Gunpowder

Works, Elterwater Hall.
Rogers, Major, Pull Cottage.
Rollinshaw, Anthony, boot and

shoemaker, and lodging-house

keeper.
Roughsedge, Hornby, Esq., ( J.P.)

Fox Ghyll.
Sarginson, James, farmer and

lodging house, Skelwith.
Stalker and Higgins, joiners.
Shepherd, William, lodgings,

Waterhead.
Shepherd, James, Esq., surgeon.
Slee, Lancelot, farmer, Arnside.
Slater, Mrs., confectioner and

lodging house.
Sproat, John, accountant and

lodging house, Fairfield.
Sproat, Wm., boot & shoemaker.
Squires, Mrs., glass dealer and

hairdresser.

Stainton, R., Golden Rule Inn.

Stalker, Betsy, grocer.

Stalker, Mrs. A., Springfield.

Stansfield, Mrs., Waterhead.

Suart, James, Esq., Low Fold.

Tatham, Rev., J., curate, Rydal.

Thompson, Joseph, boat builder.

Thompson, John, painter.

Thompson, Jonathan, grocer.

Thompson, Miss, lodging house,
Walton Cottage.

Thwaite, Joseph, bread baker.

Townson, Wm., carrier, Wliite
Lion Hotel.

Townson, Benjamin, tax collec-
tor, Woodbine Cottage.

Townley, Robert, Unicorn Inn.

Troughton, Thomas, bookseller,
&c, Stamp Office.

Troughton, Miss, D., lodg-house

Tyson, T., farmer, Waterhead.

Tyson, Joseph, carpenter.

Tyson, Joseph, confectioner.

Walton, Edward, shoemaker.

Walker, John, grocer and con-
fectioner.

Wilson, John, Esq., solicitor,
Cross Brow.

Wilson, Thos, Esq., Clappersgate

Wilson, R., farmer, Rydal Nab.

Woodburn, John, grocer and
game dealer.

Woodburn, Mrs., lodging house.

Woodhouse, Richard, gardener
and lodgings, Haven Cottage.

Woof, Mrs., farmer and lodg-
ings, Low Fold.

Woodend, J., farmer, Nook End.

Wordsworth, Mrs., widow of the
late Wm. Wordsworth, Rydal
Mount.

Wilson, James, Christopher, Esq.,
Compston Lodge.

Wilson, John, farmer, Grove.

Winder, Mary, grocer, &c.

DIRECTORY. — LANGDALES.

217

LANGDALES.

Barrow, Henry, farmer and slater
Hacket.

Bank, John, yeoman, Langdale
Head.

Benson, Edward, yeoman, Low
Millbeck.

Birkett, Rev. Stephen, incum-
bent, Chapel Style.

Birkett, Thos., farmer and slater,
Ivy How.

Birkett, Jonathan, farmer,
Wilson Place.

Bird, Isaac, slate merchant, El-
terwater.

Bownass, William, cooper, Post-
office, Elterwater.

Dixon, James, farmer, Dale End.

Fleming, William, miner and
beerhouse keeper, Little Lang-
dale.

Greenop, Robert, farmer, Oak
How.

Gregg, John, farmer, Blea Tarn,

Grisdale, John, farmer, Lang-
dale Head.

Harrison, John, farmer, Busk.

Hartley, Wilson, farmer, Bays
Brown.

Hodgson, George, joiner and
farmer, Colwith.

Hodgson, John, slate merchant
and farmer, New Houses.

Hodgson, George, farmer, Side
Houses.

Jackson, James, farmer, Elter-
water Farm.

Kirkby, Henry, farmer, Raw
Head.

Lishman, John, woodmonger and
farmer, Bield.

Milligan, John, farmer, WaU
End.

Postlethwaite, John, farmer,
Langdale Head.

Rigg, Andrew, farmer, Harry
Place.

Ritson, Joseph, provision dealer,
Elterwater.

Robinson, John, Esq., Gunpowder
Works, Elterwater Hah.

Shepherd, Edward, farmer, Col-
with.

Stables, Henry, shoemaker and
farmer, Wallthwaite.

Thompson, George, beerhouse
keeper, and farmer,, Millbeck.

Thompson, Wilson, farmer, Pye
How.

Thompson, Thomas, farmer and
assistant overseer, Wallthwaite

Tyson, John, farmer, Fell Foot.

Tyson, Edward, innkeeper,
Chapel Style.

Tyson, William, beerhouse keep-
er, Elterwater.

Youdel, John, yeoman, Ellers.

Youdell, Josegh, yeoman, Low
Birk How.

CONISTON.

Atkinson, Thomas, Waterhead

Hotel.
Barnett, George, innkeeper.
Barratt, Wm., Holly how Cottage
Barratt, John, Esq., Holyworth

House.

Barrow, Edward, Black Bull Inn.
Barrow, Joseph, yeoman, Little

Arrow.
Barrow, Wm., yeoman, Outrake.
Barrow, Henry, yeoman, Heath-

waite.

218

DIRECTORY,

COKtSTON.

Barrow, Adam, farmer, C at Bank.

Barrow, William, farmer, Heath-
waite.

Burrow, George, farmer, and
wool stapler, Hallgarth.

Beever, the Misses, Thwaite.

Bell, William, joiner, Hawsbank

Benson. John, farmer, Yew Tree.

Boileau, Simon John, Esq., Par-
sonage.

Bowdin, Daniel, accountant.

Bownass, Wm., yeoman, Brow.

Bownass, Roger, yeoman, Dixon
Ground.

Bownass, George, junr.

Bownass, Roger, draper, Post-
office.

Briggs, John, carrier.

Briggs, James, carrier.

Bywater, R. T., Esq., surgeon.

Chambre, Miss, Bank Ground.

Collinson, William, farmer, Low
Yewdale.

Coward, Edward, farmer, Farend

Coward, Henry, grocer and
carrier, Bridge End.

Coward, Edward, joiner, Saw
Mills.

Diddams, John, school master.

Dixon, Benjamin, yeoman, Spoon
Hall.

Dixon, William, yeoman, Dixon
Ground.

Dixon, Joseph, grocer.

Dixon, John, tailor.

Fleming, George, butcher, Yew-
dale Bridge.

Fleming, Robert, blacksmith.

Fleming, John, shoemaker.

Gaskarth, Anthony, lodging
house.

Grave, William, Railway Tavern.

Hall, Joseph, grocer.

Harker, Jas., Rising Sun, beer-
house.

Irving, I., farmer, Coniston Hall.
Jackson, John, farmer, High

Yewdale.
Jackson, Edward, farmer and

slate merchant, Tilberthwaite.
Knight, John, farmer and asses-

ment overseer.
Knipe, Thos. and Jas., tailors.
Linton, William J., artist,

Brantwood.
Marshall, J. G., Esq., M.P.,

Waterhead House,
Massicks, Isaac, Crown Hotel.
Massicks, Isaac, blacksmith.
Mason, Miles, yeoman & waller,

Low Houses.
Mandle, Thomas, slate merchant
Mossop, Clement, tailor.
Milligan, Go., farmer, TarnHaws
Nicholson, Eleanor, grocer.
Parker, John, farmer and slate

merchant, Holme Ground.
Pickles, Richard, farmer, Dixon

Ground.
Pool, John, butcher.
Prickett, Richard, farmer, Dixon

Ground.
Redhead, Edward, painter and

glazier.
Romney, William, agent to J.

G. Marshall, Esq.
Romney, Mrs., Tent Lodge.
Shuttleworth, Joseph, farmer,

Tent Lodge.
Shuttleworth, Wilson, butcher,

Waterhead.
Smith, Wordsworth, Esq., Con-
iston Bank.
Smith, Mrs., Coniston Bank.
Spedding, John, yeoman, Bow-

manstead.
Stables, Miles, corn miller.
Thwaites, William, shoemaker.
Tolming, Rev., Thomas, incum-
bent of Coniston.

DIRECTORY,

GRASMERE.

219

Townson, William, yeoman, Gill.

Tyson, George, tailor and draper.

Tyson, J., yeoman, High Ground

Walker, Henry, farmer and lodg-
ing house, Bank Ground.

Wilson, Wm., yeoman, Beckses.

Wilson, Matthew, yeoman, Hol-
lins Bank.

Wilson, John, carrier.

Wilson, Thomas, farmer, Conis-
ton Bank.

Wilson, John, farmer, Rowland-
son Ground.

Wilson, Wm., beerhouse keeper,
Miners' Arms.

GRASMERE.

Airey, James, postmaster, Under

How.
Arnold, Mrs., Helm Side.
Agar, Miss, Silver How.
Baldry, J., schoolmaster.
Brown, Edward, auctioneer and

appraiser, Hollins Hotel.
Brocklebank, Edward, farmer,

Underhelm.
Cookson, Thomas, farmer and

lodging housekeeper, Dale End
Cookson, Mrs., How Foot.
Cowperthwaite, William, lodging

house keeper, Church Stile.
Dixon, James, farmer & builder,

Bove Beck.
Fleming, Rev., Sir Richard,

rector, Rectory.
Fleming, James, yeoman, Knott's

Houses.
Fleming, John, provision dealer,

Knott's Houses.
Farquhar, Lady, Dale Cottage.
Fletcher, Mrs., Town Head.
Fletcher, Mrs., Lancrigg.
Fleming, John, yeoman, Under

How.
Gibson, Mrs., Kelbarrow.
Gibson, Miss, St. Oswalds.
Green, John, Esq., Pavement

End.
Green, John, Esq., land agent,

Rylands.
Green, William, yeoman, Beck

Allans.

Greenhow, John, farmer, Ayeside

Nook.
Garnett, Frank, shoemaker,

Butterliphow.
Greenwood, J. Y., Esq., Wyke.
Green, Daniel, provision dealer,

Pavement End.
Harrison, Thomas, farmer, and

carrier, Gill Foot.
Hayton, Robert, farmer, Score

Cragg.
Heelis, Stephen, Esq., solicitor,

Forrest Side.
Hodgson, Levi, waller & builder,

Town End.
Howe, Rd., painter and glazier.
Jenkinson, Daniel, farmer, Goody

Bridge.
Johnston, Rev., William, Be-
tween Gates.
Luff, Mrs., Dale Cottage.
Mackereth, David, parish clerk,

Wyke.
Mackereth, Gawin, boatman and

guide, Town End.
Nicholson, Thomas, waller, &c.
Pettitt, A., artist, Belle Vue.
Pettitt, George W., artist, Rose

Cottage.
Phillips, Captain, The Wray.
Postlethwaite, Jos., blacksmith,

White Bridge.
Rothery, Mary, farmer, Goody

Bridge.
Sandford, T., Esq., Ben Place.

220

DIRECTORY. — HAWKSHEAD.

Scott, William, general trader,

Swan Inn.
Tyson, John, Esq., Kitty Cragg,

yeoman.
Usher, Isaac, Red Lion Hotel.
Walker, Isaac, farmer, Broad

Rain.
Walker, Mrs., grocer, Moss Side

Walker, Edward, blacksmith,

Town End.
Webber, Mrs., Allan Banks.
Wilson, J., yeoman, Goody Bge.
Wilson, Edward & Sons, builders,

Stubdale Cottage.
Wilson, John, builder, Horse

Stead Cottage.

HAWKSHEAD.

Atkinson, Robert, police officer.

Atkinson, John, grocer.

Atkinson, John, hoop manufac-
turer, Outgate.

Atkinson, Richard B., beerhouse
keeper, Outgate.

Backhouse, Richard, farmer,
High Wray.

Bainbridge, Mrs. Sarah.

Baisbrown, John, gardener and
seedsman.

Baisbrown, Richard, earthen-
ware dealer.

Bardsley, Thomas, schoolmaster.

Barker, John, painter & glazier.

Beck, Mrs., Esthwaite Lodge.

Bell, Anthony, yeoman, Birkrey

Bell, Dorothy, tea dealer, Green
End.

Benson, Thomas, farmer, Field
Head.

Black, George, farmer, Atwood.

Black, James I., officer of excise,
Hannakin.

Bowman, Thomas, Esq., (J.P.)
Rogerground.

Bownass, G., waller, Waterside.

Bownass, William, calf dealer,
Thompson Ground.

Braithwaite, George, boot and
shoe maker.

Braithwaite, William, plasterer.

Brockbank, Robert & Matthew,
joiners, Hannakin.

Burton, John, tailor and draper.

Chapman, Ann, Hill Top.

Cooper, Mrs., Beckside Cottage.

Coward, James, saddler.

Coward, Edward, farmer, Keen
Ground.

Coward, William, miller, Hawks-
head Mill.

Coward, William, flag merchant,
Outgate.

Crawford, Rev, Samuel, Borwick
Lodge.

Croasdale, John, farmer, Skinner
How.

Croasdale Isabella, farmer, Saw-
rey Ground.

Dixon, James, waller, Croft
Head.

Dowbiggin, James, auctioneer.

Dowbiggin, John, joiner.

Dugdale, Richard, farmer, Cragg

Dugdale, John, farmer, Tock
How.

Forrest, W., farmer, Beyont Field

Forsyth, John, wood monger,
Field Head.

Fothergill, John, farmer, Esth-
waite Hall.

Garnett, Mary, Borwick Ground

Garnett, George, farmer, Sunny
Brow.

Gill, Sarah, King's Arms Inn.

Green, Samuel, clerk and sexton

Hale, Miss Elizabeth, dressmaker

DIEECTOET. IIAWKSIIEAD.

221

Hartley, William, bacon dealer
and farmer, Tock How.

Hawkrigg, J. yeoman, Town End

Hetherington, Sarah, oat-bread
baker.

Hewitson, Miles, boot and shoe
maker.

Hickie, Daniel Banfield, L.L.D.,
master of Grammar School.

Hodgson, Braithwaite, Esq.,
Green End.

Hodgson, William, blacksmith,
Gallowbarrow.

Hopkins, Joseph, Esq., Belle
Grange,

Hudson, R., farmer, Birkrey.

Huish, Calverly, Esq.

Hutchinson, John, boot and shoe
maker.

Hutchinson, Margaret, confec-
tioner.

Jackson, Richard, Sun Inn.

Jefferson, William, farmer, Bor-
wick Lodge.

Johnson, — , Esq. M.D.

Keen, Jacob, farmer, Howe.

Kendall, Wm., yeoman, Hawks-
head Field.

Kendall, Jas., yeoman, Hawks-
head Field.

Kilner, Mrs., Richmond Villa.

Kirkby, Mat., farmer, Water-
son Ground.

Kirkby, Robert, auctioneer, Colt-
house.

Ladyman, G., Queen's Head Inn

Leviston, George S., yeoman,
Greystone Cottage.

Lodge, Edmund, Esq., Keen
Ground.

Martin, J., hoop manufacturer.

Martin, George, waller.

Medcalf, William, Esq., Mill
Hill Cottage.

Milligan, Joseph, farmer, Castle

Milligan, Michael, farmer, Knipe
Fold.

Newby, John, farmer, Foldyeat.

Nicholson, George, tailor and
draper.

Noble, Robert, boot and shoe
maker.

Noble, the Misses, drapers.

Noble, Mary, confectioner.

Noble, John, ironmonger and
grocer.

Park, Rev. George, Parsonage,
Walker Ground.

Park, William, joiner.

Park, James, swiller, Gallow-
barrow.

Park, John, farmer, Dodgson-
ground.

Parker, Anthony, farmer,Hawks-
head Hall.

Poole, John, butcher, Roger-
ground.

Poole, John, Esq., solicitor,
Field Head House.

Postlethwaite, Isaac, tailor.

Purdie, James, tin plate worker

Raven, Mrs., Walker Ground.

Raven, Robert, saddler.

Rigg, John, dogger, Outgate.

Robinson, Thos., vetr. surgeon.

Rowlandson, Margaret, spinster.

Rowlandson, John, gentleman.

Satterthwaite, Thomas, cooper,
Outgate.

Satterthwaite, Thomas, farmer,
Loanthwaite.

Satterthwaite, Jonathan, bacon
curer, Colthouse.

Satterthwaite, Wm., blacksmith

Scales, Roland, yeoman, Out-
gate.

Scott, Miss Deborah, dress
maker.

Slater and Heelis, solicitors.

Steele, Jonathan, yeoman.

222

DIRECTORY.

KESWICK.

Stolzman, Madame E., ladies'

seminary.
Studdart, Robert, boot and shoe

maker.
Swainson, G., farmer, Sike Side.
Taylor, John, relieving officer.
Taylor, Ann, grocer.
Taylor, George, plasterer.
Taylor, Ferdmando, Red Lion

Inn.
Taylor, the Misses, milliners and

dress makers.
Taylor, Isaac, blacksmith, Han-

nakin.
Taylor, Joseph, beerhouse keeper,

Waterbarnets.
Taylor, John, waller, Sandground
Usher, John, Brown Cow Inn.
Usher, Benjamin, waller.
Usher, John, waller, Sand

Ground.
Walker, Thomas, carpenter, Gal-

labarrow.

Walker, Mary, grocer, Gallow-
barrow.

Walker, William, bobbin manu-
facturer, Bobbin Mill Cottage

Walker, John Thomas, bobbin
turner, Summer Hill.

W'ardley, Joshua, farmer, High
House.

Wardley, Thomas, farmer, High
Barn.

Warriner, Thomas, yeoman, Out-
gate.

Watson, Charles, postmaster.

Watson, Gawn, tallow-chandler.

Watson, Ann, draper.

Whittaker, Mrs., Belmont.

Wilson, Mary, national school
mistress.

Wilson, John, carrier.

Wilcock, Thomas, Esq., Lake
Bank.

Wilson, William, Esq., land
agent, High Wray.

KESWICK.

Alcock, Christopher, shoemaker.
Alexander, Featherstonhaugh,

grocer.
Allinson, Mrs.

Ansell, George, Esq., solicitor.
Apps, Mrs., stationer.
Atkinson, John, grocer.
Atkinson, Thomas, barber and

parish clerk.
Atkinson, Matthew, guide and

boatman.
Atkinson, William, lodging

house, Derwent Terrace.
Atkinson, Miss, milliner and

dress maker.
Bailey, Thomas, bookseller and

stationer.
Banks, Misses, lodging house.
Banks, Mrs., Shorley Croft.

Banks, Joseph, lodging house.

Banks, Son & Co., pencil manu-
facturers.

Banks, John, draper.

Barron, Edward, Esq.

Barrow, Joseph, grocer.

Battersby, Rev. T. D. H., (in-
cumbent) St. John's Parsonage

Bell, — officer of inland revenue

Bird, Isaac, police officer.

Blakey, William P., butcher and
lodging house keeper.

Bowe, Joseph, King's Arms
Hotel.

Bowes, William, edge tool manu-
facturer.

Boyer, Rev. R. B., curate of St.
John's Church.

Brown, Dr. Derwent Terrace.

DIRECTORY. — KESWICK.

223

Bromley, William, stone cutter.

Buxton, Mrs., school-mistress.

Camm, William, fishmonger.

Cartmell, Mrs., lodging house.

Christopherson, J., ironmonger.

Clarke, B. & W., woollen manu-
facturers.

Clark, John, brewer.

Cockburn, John, draper.

Cocken, Edmund, Esq., Chest-
nut Hill.

Coulthard, Jos., sawyer & grocer.

Cowper, John, jeweller.

Crosthwaite, Mrs. Elizabeth,
museum proprietor.

Crosthwaite, J. Fisher, post-
master and bank agent.

Crosthwaite, Joseph, joiner and
cabinet maker.

Crosthwaite, Mrs., grocer.

Crosthwaite, Jonathan, farmer,
Monks Hall.

Crosthwaite, J. & B., tanners.

Crosthwaite, Misses, St. John's-
street.

Crosthwaite, Abraham, grocer.

Dallow, Bev. Joseph, Harriman
Field.

Dare, James, Esq., Chestnut
Hill.

Denton, Misses, Main-street.

Denton, William, Esq., Greta
Farm.

Dent, John, innkeeper, Waggon
and Horses.

Dewar, Mrs., Govenor's House.

Dixon, Thomas, Plosh.

Dobson, James, chemist and
druggist.

Dover, Mrs., Myrtle Grove.

Dowthwaite, Watson, shoemaker

Dunlop, Misses, The Hollies.

Dunglison, Mrs. Martha, matron
of Charity House.

Edmondson, J., Castlerigg Farm

Edmondson, Mrs., lodging house

Edmondson, Misses, Dixon's Bow

Elleray, Wm., dyer, Elm Grove.

Elleray, Miss, Greta Cottage.

Fallows, Thomas, coach-office,
barber, &c.

Fenton, G. S., Esq., Brow Top.

Ferguson, James, Esq., artist,
Plosh.

Fisher, Mrs., Fisher's Hotel.

Flintoft, Joseph, Esq., Larch
House.

Foster, WilHam, Heads Houses.

Foster, Son, & Co., pencil manu-
facturers.

Fowler, William, saddler.

Fox, Miss, schoolmistress, High
Hill.

Frank, John, Queen's Hotel.

Gatey, Joseph, draper.

Gibson and Hodgson, builders.

Gibson, Anthony, actuary of
Savings' Bank and assistant
overseer.

Gillbanks, Wm., lodging-house,
Chestnut Hill.

Gill, Miss, dressmaker.

Gill, Adam, George Hotel.

Gipps, Bev. H., M.A., Vicarage.

Goodfellow, Thomas, grocer.

Gordon, Mrs., lodging-house, St.
John's-street.

Graham, Joseph, shoemaker.

Grave & Son, woollen manufac-
turers.

Grave, William, breadbaker.

Grave, Miss, lodging-house,
Shorley Croft.

Greenip, Miss, teacher, Greta-
street.

Greenip, William, naturalist,
Plosh.

Greenip, John, grocer.

Greenhow, Jane, grocer.

Guy, Wm., pencil manufacturer.

R

224

DIRECTORY.

KESWICK.

Hall, Jos., Esq., solicitor.

Hallewell, George, lodging-house

Halmarack, P., Prospect House.

Harrison, John, butcher.

Harrison, Peter, head master
Free Grammar School.

Hewetson, Mrs., Main-street.

Highton, Edward, teacher, Brig-
ham School.

Hodgson, Mrs., Penrith-road.

Hodgson, John, lodging-house.

Hogarth, Jonah, Chestnut Hill.

Holmes, Misses, Millfield.

Hudson, Mrs., Main-street.

Hudspith, John, agent to J.
Marshall, Esq.

Hunton, Misses, Acorn House.

Hutchinson, Isaac, watchmaker.

Hutton, Miss, Derwent Lake road

Iredale, J., farmer, Greta Farm.

Irving, Dr., Main-street.

Irving, Nancy, draper.

Irwin, Thomas, shoemaker.

Irwin, Jane, breadbaker,

Ivison, Jas., printer & bookseller,
proprietor of the "Derwent-
water Record."

Jackson, Mrs., Shorley Croffc.

Jackson, Robley, breadbaker.

James, Joseph, blacksmith.

Kennedy, Thomas, draper.

Kirkbride, Mrs., grocer.

Knubley, Mat., relieving-officer.

Lamley, Miss, Dixon's-row.

Lancaster, John, gardener.

Lawson, William, builder.

Lightfoot, Miss, Acorn Cottage.

Lightfoot, Mrs. Wilson, lodging
house.

Lightfoot, Miss, teacher.

Litt, Thomas, tailor.

Lockhart, Henry, butcher.

Main, Mrs., Skiddaw Lodge.

Main, John, draper.

Makemson, Robert, shoemaker.

Mark, Mrs., farmer, Great Cros-
thwaite.

Marshall, Henry C, Esq., Der-
went Isle.

Matthews, Wilham, butcher.

Mawson, John, blacksmith.

Mayson, Joseph, lodging-house,
High-street.

Messenger, Mary, breadbaker.

Minnikin, George R., nursery-
man and seedsman.

Mounsey, Misses, Dixon's-row.

Moore, Matilda, Dog and Gun.

Musgrave, John, tailor.

Newby, Win, L., civil engineer.

Nixon, Miss, confectioner.

Otley, Jonathan, St. John's-street

Pape, William, Woolpack Inn.

Parker, William, grocer.

Pearson, F., Escf., Briery Hill.

Pearson, Wm., provision dealer.

Peat, Mrs., Laburnum House.

Perring, Rev. A. C, mcumbent
of St. John's in the Vale.

Powley, Henry, carpenter.

Rigg, Robert, grocer.

Rooke, Mrs., Skiddaw Lodge.

Robinson, John, shoemaker.

Robinson, Misses, milliners and
dressmakers.

Robinson, Joseph, Shoulder of
Mutton Inn.

Rodger, Robert, painter.

Rookin, Mrs., Plosh Hall.

Ross, Isaac, Golden Lion Inn.

Rothery, C. W., Esq., Greta
Hall.

Routledge, Thomas, sawyer.

Rucastle, Jeremiah, auctioneer.

Scott, Joseph, farmer.

Scott and Sons, woollen manu-
facturers.

Scott, Abraham, Black Lion Inn

Scott, Jane, grocer.

Scott, Miss, Penrith-road.

DIBECTOEY. — POETINSCALE.

225

Scott, William, saddler.
Scott, Mrs., Norman Terrace.
Scott, John, millwright.
Sealby, Isaac F., ironmonger.
Sheldon, John, Greta-street.
Shearman, Mark, joiner and

cabinet maker.
Simpson, Rev. T. B., M,A„

Derwentwater Place.
Simpson, George, King's Head.
Simm, Miss, Seminary, Greta

Lodge.
Slack, Joseph, Esq., Greta Grove
Smith, Thomas, earthenware

dealer.
Southey, Miss, Lairbeck,
Stables, John, grocer.
Stanger, James, Esq., (J.P.)

Lairthwaite.
Stanger, Mrs. Joshua, Fieldside.
Stoddart, J., surgeon, Penrith-

road.
Stoddart, Elizabeth, straw bon-
net maker.
Sutcliffe, Miss, milliner, &c.
Sutton, Miss, lodging-house,

Castlerigg Cottage.
Swindle, Vipont, grocer.
Swinburn, Isaac, joiner and

cabinet maker.
Teather, John, Royal Oak

Hotel.
Temple, John, tallow chandler.
Thornton, Mrs., grocer.
Tickle, Mrs., Shorley Croft.
Todd, Joseph, Esq., Hawthorn

Cottage.

Tolson & Crowder, tailors and
drapers.

Tolson, Joseph, shoemaker.

Tolson, Joseph, gardener.

Tyson, Wilham, grocer.

Usher, Joseph, grocer.

Vickers, Elizabeth, dealer in
meal and flour.

Watson, George, architect, High-
street.

Watson, Mrs., confectioner.

Walker, Rev. J., Chestnut Hill.

Webster, Rev. A. R., Derwent-
water Place.

White, John, breadbaker.

Wilkinson, T., joiner.

Wilkinson, John, dogger.

Williamson, Mrs., Norman
Terrace.

Williamson, Mary, innkeeper,
Great Crosthwaite.

Wilson, Joseph, draper.

Wilson, John, teacher.

Wilson, Mrs., St. John's-street.

Wilson, Robert, brick and tile
manufacturer.

Wilson, Joseph, nailor.

Wilson, Thomas, shoemaker.

Wilson, George, Woodman's Inn

Wood, Joseph, draper.

Wood, Henry, painter.

Wren, Abraham, pencil manu-
facturer.

Wright, C. H., guide & botanist

Younghusband, Mrs., Brow Top

Younghusband, Wilham, Rose
and Crown Inn.

PORTINSCALE.

Bennett, Thomas, Ullock Moss.
Clarke, A. R., Esq., mine pro

prietor, The Howe.
Dixon, Mrs. A., Derwentwater

Hotel.

Fawcett, H. H., Esq., Powe

House.
Favell, Mrs., Derwent Lodge.
Fisher, Joseph, Esq.
Fisher, Miss, lodging-house.

226

DIRECTORY.

BRAITHWAITE,

Faulder, Robert, The Howe.
Greenip, Mrs., grocer and 1. h.
Harriman, Thomas, yeoman.
Knubley, R., joiner and 1. h.
Lietch, Dr., Derwent Bank.
Mitchell, Richard, cordwainer.

Muckle, Miss.

Poole, Edwin, boarding house.
Turner, Mrs., Derwent Hill.
Thompson, Isaac, shoemaker.
Tickefi, Thomas, farmer, Ullock.
Walker, Mr. John.

BASSENTHWAITE AND UNDERSKIDDAW.

Atkinson, John, yeoman, Bas-
senthwaite Halls.

Atkinson, Miss, High Side.

Briggs, Daniel, veterinary sur-
geon, Castle Inn.

Clarke, Wilson, farmer, Apple-
thwaite.

Dover and Co., woollen manu-
facturers, Millbeck.

Dover, A., Esq., Skiddaw Bank.

Dover, Joseph, Esq., Low Grove

Ewart, John, yeoman, Barkbeth.

Fawcett, John, farmer, Bassen-
thwaite.

Fawcett, Thomas, farmer, Bas-
senthwaite.

Folder, J., farmer, Dancing Gate

Hodgson, ! William, postmaster
and surveyor.

Hodgson, William, farmer, Ap-
plethwaite.

Jeffrey, George, lodging-house,
Rose Bank Cottage.

Monkhouse, Revd. John, Lyz-
zick Hall.

Perfect and Hansard Misses,
Scarness.

Rooke, John, yeoman, Green
Hill, Bassenthwaite.

Scott, Jane, farmer, Little Cros-
thwaite.

Spedding, Mrs., John, Oakfield.

Spedding, T. S. Esq., (J.P.)
Mirehouse.

Stanley, Mark, farmer, Long
Close.

Swinburn, Joseph, farmer, Mill-
beck Hall.

Taylor, Misses, High Side, Bas-
senthwaite.

Vane, Sir Henry, Bart., Arma-
thwaite Hall.

Wake, Mrs., Ormathwaite
House.

Wren, Isaac, farmer, Low
Grove.

BRAITHWAITE.

Adamson, John, corn miller.

Bell, Thomas, blacksmith.

Brown, Isaac, corn miller.

Fearson, Isaac, butcher and inn-
keeper.

Fletcher, George, yeoman.

Gatey, William, tailor.

Gibson, Thomas, schoolmaster
and postmaster.

Jopson. Daniel, joiner.

Lowdon, Wm., farmer, Uzicar.

Muckle, George, Esq., Little
Braithwaite.

Pennie, The Misses, Braithwaite
Lodge.

Stamper, John, innkeeper, Brai-
thwaite.

Tolson, Daniel, farmer, Uzicar.

Williamson, George, woollen
manufacturer.

DIRECTORY.

BORROWDALE,

227

THORNTHWAITE.

Bewslier, John, beer-seller.
Crosthwaite, J., yeo., Hall Garth
Fisher, Miss, Jenkyn Hill.
Gibson, Miss, Powter Howe.
Gate, John, Esq., Spring Bank.
Lynn, Rev. John M., perpetual
curate, Thornthwaite Parsonage

Mc. Glasson, Mrs., Larch How.

Mitchell, Thomas, Swan Inn.

Sanderson, John, yeoman, Thorn-
thwaite Hall.

Sanderson, John, junr., farmer,
Beckstones.

BORROWDALE.

Abbott, John, farmer, Manesty.

Allison, John, junr., farmer,
Rosthwaite.

Banks, Mary, lodging-house,
Newton Place.

Birket, John, farmer, Seathwaite

Dixon, John, agent to the Black-
lead Mines, Seathwaite.

Dixon, Daniel, farmer, Stone-
thwaite.

Fisher, Abraham, Esq., (J.P.)
Seatoller.

Heathcote, Miss, Borrowdale
Gates.

Jackson, John, postmaster, Ros-
thwaite.

Jopson, Daniel, farmer, Seatoller

Jopson, John, farmer, Chapel
House.

Kirkby, George, farmer, High
Lowrdore.

Litt, Jos., farmer, Stonethwaite.

Mackereth, Geo., farmer, EHers.

Mossop, Mrs., innkeeper, Low-
dore Hotel.

Newby, Rev. George, perpetual
curate, Borrowdale Parsonage

Simpson, Thomas, Esq., Hazel
Bank.

Simpson, William, innkeeper,
Rosthwaite.

Slee, Adam, slate merchant,
Quayfoot.

Teasdale, Isaac, farmer,, Riggside

Threlkeld, Thos., yeoman, Grange

Threlkeld, Thos., junr., farmer,
Grange.

Walker, Thomas, farmer, Thorn-
thwaite.

Wilson, John, yeoman, Grange.

Wilson, Joseph, yeoman, Ros-
thwaite.

Wilson, John, farmer, Watend-
lath.

Wren, Thomas, yeoman, Rosth-
waite.

DALE HEAD.

INCLUDING- WYTHBURN, LEGBERTHWAITE, AND ST. JOHN'S VALE.

Atkinson, John, innkeeper, and
postmaster, Dale Head.

Bell, Joseph, miller.

Birkett, Charles, blacksmith.

Birkett, John, shoemaker, Wyth-
burn.

Cartmel, Robert, farmer and
butcher, Low Nest.

Dowthwaite, J., yeoman, Green.
Gillbanks, John, yeoman, Wyth-

burn.
Hardisty, B., Esq., Armboth.
Hawkrigg, John, yeoman.
Hawkrigg, Jane, Horse Head

Inn, Wythburn.
Hind, John, yeoman, Wythburn

228

DIRECTORY.

YALE OF LOWESWATER.

Hudson, Richard, farmer, Low-
thwaite.

Lawson, Rev. B. R., Wythburn.

Midford, Robert, Esq., the Nest

Morley, William, butcher, Arm-
both.

Robinson, John, joiner, Smithy
House.

Stanley, Miles, waller & farmer.

Stanley, Mark, Wanthwaite Mill
Weightman, T. farmer, Armboth
Westray, Jane, farmer, Armboth
Wilkinson, John, yeoman, Shoul-

thwaite.
Wilkinson, Jos., yeoman, Fisher

Place.
Wilson, George, farmer, Arm-
both.

THRELKELD.

Cockbain, M., farmer, Souterfell
Collinson, Rev. Thomas, incum-
bent, of Threlkeld.
Crozier, John, Esq., Riddings.
Greenhow, Thomas, yeoman.

Morley, Thomas, butcher and

grocer.
Flasket, Thomas, Salutation Inn
Porter, Mrs., White Horse Inn.
Robinson, John, Doddick.

Atkinson, Rev. Jer., Parsonage.

Bell, Richard, yeoman, Latter-
head.

Benson, Isaac, yeoman, Godfer-
head.

Beck, Joseph, blacksmith, Giller-
thwaite.

Burueyat, Peter, yeoman, Latter-
head.

Cuthbertson, John, farmer,
Watergate.

Collinson, — , Esq., Oak Bank.

Dixon, Wm., yeoman, Waterend

Fawcett, Jonathan, yeoman,
Bar Yeat.

Ireland, Jane, landowner, Red
Howe.

Johnston, Henry, tailor, Thack-
thwaite.

Norman, Lemuel, joiner, Mun-
caster House.

Pearson, Henry, farmer and inn-
keeper. Church Stile.

VALE OF LOWESWATER.

(Head Office: — CocJcervnouthJ

Pearson, Mrs., landowner, Low
Park.

Procldow, Simeon, yeoman, Ar-
dale Place.

Sancton, Thos., post-messenger,
Old School.

Senhouse,Humphrey, gentleman,
Low Park.

Simpson, Jonathan, fanner, Mill
Hill.

Skelton, Miss, Foulsyke.

Topping, George, yeoman,
Thackthwaite.

Tyson, William, yeoman, Thack-
thwaite.

Tyson, William, yeoman, Low
Park.

Tyson, J., grocer, Gillerthwaite.

Tyson, Isaac, joiner, Giller-
thwaite.

Tickers, Mrs., Kirkhead.

Wilkinson, John, farmer and
innkeeper, Mire Syke.

DIRECTORY. — PATTERDALE.

229

VALE OF BUTTERMERE.

Benson, General, Hasness.
Clark, John, farmer, Syke House
Clark, Mrs., innkeeper, Fish Inn
Cowman, Isaac, farmer, Crofts.
Cowman, Joseph, innkeeper,

Bridge Inn.

Fleming, Daniel, farmer, Wilkin
Syke.

Jopson, Charles, gentleman,
Wood House.

Nelson, Edward, farmer, Gates-
garth.

PATTERDALE.

(Head Office : — Penrith J

Abbott, Joseph, farmer, Hartsop

Alcock, Wm., joiner, Bleeze End

Askew, Henry W., Esq., Glen-
ridding House.

Backhouse, John, boatman.

Bell, John, mining agent, Glen-
ridding.

Bland, Rev. J., Side, Placefell.

Dobson, Benjamin, yeoman,
Newhouses.

Dobson, Hiram joiner and lodg-
ing-house, Newhouses.

Dobson, Lancelot, boot and shoe
maker, Newhouses.

Gelderd, John, Family Hotel,
(Post Office.)

Grisdale, Robert, farmer, Hart-
sop Hall.

Grisdale, George, yeoman,
Greenbank.

Grisdale, John, farmer, Beck-
stones,

Grisdale, John, miller, Hartsop
MiU.

Harrison, Thomas, Cross Keys
Inn, Kirkstone Foot.

Hogarth, William, farmer, Deep-
dale Hall.

Irving, George, tailor & grocer,
Township.

Kirkland, John, farmer, Low
Hartsop.

Lancaster, Joseph, cordwainer,
Bridge End.

Leek, William, parish clerk and

boatman.
Leek, J., blacksmith, Deepdale.
Machell, Thomas, White Lion

Inn, Township.
Martin, William, farmer, Side,

Place Fell.
Martin, Miss, dressmaker, Side.
Marshall, Wm., Esq., Patterdale

Hall.
Mattinson, W., carrier, Township
Matthews, James, bookkeeper,

Greenside Lodge.
Mounsey, Daniel, Esq., GoldriH.

Cottage.
Mounsey, J., yeoman, Deepdale.
Mounsey, Daniel, yeoman, Bridge

End.
Nelson, Aaron, schoolmaster.
Nelson, Hannah, schoolmistress.
Nicholson, Jos., farmer, Noran

Bank.
Pattinson, J., yeoman, Hartsop.
Pattinson, John, grocer, Tenter

How.
Pattinson, Wm., waller, Gillside
Peel, Edward, waller & builder,

Grasthwaite How.
Rickerby, Joseph, land-agent,

Eagle.
Robinson, George, blacksmith,

Scarfoot.
Robinson, Thomas, gentleman,

Bank Cottage.

230

DIRECTORY. — VALE OP ENNERDALE.

Robinson, John, farmer, Gillside
Rothery, Henry, farmer, Bray-
steads.
Stalker, Jane, farmer, Tenter

How.
Thompson, Rev. John, Parsonage
Thompson, Jos., tailor, Brother

Field.
Thompson, John, farmer, Lane
Head.

Todhunter, Jos., farmer, Glen-
coin.

Walton, John, gardener, &c.,
Bridge End.

Watson, Thomas, blacksmith,
Row Head.

Wilson, Mrs., Placefield Honse.

Winder, John, farmer, Cawdale
Beck.

MARDALE AND MEASAND.

HAWSWATEE.

Bland, Stephen, yeoman.
Greenhow, Thomas, farmer.
Holme, John, Esq., Chapel Hill.
Kitchen, Thomas, farmer.
Mawson, Aaron, yeoman..
Mawson, George, yeoman.

Nevinson, Henry, farmer.
Rigg, Jonathan, schoolmaster.
Towers, William, farmer, & inn-
keeper.
Towers, Mark, farmer.
Watson, Isaac, farmer.

VALLEY OF WASDALE HEAD.

(Head Office ■' — Whitehaven.)

Braithwaite, Joseph, farmer,

Middle Row.
Briggs, Robt, farmer, The Hall.
Burns, William, farmer, Down-

i'th-Dale.
Colebank, Fletcher, farmer,

Burnthwaite.

Kitchen, Rev. Jos., Middle Row

Ritson, John, yeoman and boat-
man, Row Foot.

Ritson, Win., farmer, Row Foot.

Ritson, J., farmer, Burnthwaite.

Robinson, Jefferson, farmer,
Rowhead.

VALE OF ENNERDALE AND KINNISIDE

Ashbrn-ner, Lawrence, innkeeper

Ennerdale Bridge.

Atkinson, Joseph, yeoman, Croft
Foot.

Attwood, Henry, Esq., Hazel
Holm.

Bell, Joseph, farmer, Whins.

Bowman, Mrs., Mireside.

Buchannan, James, guide, &c,
Angler's Inn.

Dixon, Thomas, yeoman, White-
banks.

Fearon, John, miller, Ennerdale
Mill.

Hunter, John, yeoman, Croft
Brow.

Jackson, John, yeomaH, High
Cockhow.

Jukes, Rev. W. M., Parsonage.

Kitchen, H., yeoman, How Side.

Peel, Joseph, yeoman, Gill.

Pay, John, parish clerk, Lanefoot

Robinson, John, joiner, Enner-
dale Bridge.

DIRECTORY. — BIRKER A&D AUSTHWAITE. 231

Shepherd, John, yeoman, Stand-
ing Stone.

Shepherd, Rob., yeoman, Logget

Simpson, John, miller, Kinni-
side Mill.

Steel, John, yeoman, Gill.

Steel, Henry, yeoman, Cotta.

Sumpton, Joseph, yeoman, Low
Waterside.

Townson, W., yeoman, Swinside
Tyson, George, innkeeper, Enner-

dale Bridge.
Tyson, John, yeoman, Giller-

thwaite.
Williamson, Joseph, shoemaker,

Little Bridge.
Wood, Joseph, yeoman, Birk

Moss.

VALE OF NETHERWASDALE.

Colebank, John, yeoman, Har-
rowhead.

Colebank, Ic, yeoman, Yewtree.

Colebank, Ann, Sun Inn.

Douglas, Rev. John, Parsonage.

Fletcher, Rob., yeoman, Church-
stile.

Jackson, John, yeoman, Guards.

Lewthwaite, Win., Esq., Wood
House.

Lindal, John, grocer and shoe-
maker, Lowwood.

Mossop, Hen., yeoman, Windsor

Myers, Hannah, landowner, Gap

Nicholson, Wm., yeoman, Gill.

Pharoah, Mark, mason, Black-
beck.

Porter, Joseph, yeoman, Buck-
barrow.

Rawson, Stanfield, Esq., Wasdale
Hall.

Sherwen, Wm., joiner, Mill.

Taylor, Isaac, yeoman, Old
Strands.

Tyson, Ann, landowner, Low
Greendale.

Tyson, Ruth, farmer, White
Syke.

Wasdale, Ann, Bowderdale.

Wilson, Joseph, Strands Inn.

VALE OF ESKDALE.

Benson, Jonathan, yeoman, Pad-
dockwray.

Hartley, Isaac, yeoman, Church-
house.

Hartley, Jos., joiner, Moorhead.

Hird, Henry, smith, Green.

Millican, Thos., Woolpack Inn.

Nichol, Joseph, Randlehow.

Powley, Rev., Robert, Beckfoot.

Rogers, W., King of Prussia Inn.

Russell, Wm., bobbin manufac-
turer, Esk Villa,
Russell, J., yeoman, Moss Grove
Sharp, Jos., yeoman, Hollinhead
Sharp, John, yeo., Fisherground
Southward, John, Randlehow.
Tyson, John, yeo., Armont House
T3^son, J., yeo., Borrowdale Place
Wilson, Timothy, yeoman, Hows
Wilson, John, Mason's Arms.

BIRKER AND AUSTHWAITE.

Bateman, Wm., yeo., Pennyhill.
Dixon, Wm., farmer, Dalegarth.
Hartley, Henry, farmer, Birker-
thwaite.

Sharp, Edward, yeoman, Low

Birker.
Southward, Nicholas, farmer,

Brantrake.

232 DIEECTOEY,

Tyson, John, yeoman, Birker-
thwaite.

Tyson, Thomas, yeoman, High-
ground.

YALE OE ULPHA.

Vickers, Isc, yeoman, Fieldhead
Wilson, Launc, yeo., Wincop.
Wilson, Isaac, yeoman, Sword
House.

VALE OF BRACKENTHWAITE.

(Head Office : — Ulverstone.J

Bank, Jos., yeoman, Millerplace
Bank, Thos., do. do.

Dobinson, Thos., Scalehill Inn.
Fisher, John, yeoman, Cornhow.
Fisher, Mary, Palace How.
Grindal, Jos., Lauthwaite Green
Head, John, yeoman, Hopebeck.

Head, Richard, yeoman, Hope.
Head, John, yeo., Turner How.
Hunter, W., farmer, LowHollins
Hodgson, Jane, Millbeck.
Wood, Jonathan, Esq., Low

House.
White, Ed., yeo., Miller Place,

DUNNERDALE AND SEATHWAITE.

On the Lancashire side of the Duddo-n.

Allason, Mat., yeoman, Kelbank.

Casson, Jos., yeoman, Kelbank.

Casson, John, grocer, Whistlow
Green.

Case, Hun., miller, Hesket Hall.

Dawson, John, yeoman, Thrang.

Dawson, John, yeoman, Hall
Dunnerdale.

Dawson, Wm., yeoman, Newfield

Dixon, John, yeoman, Hall Dun-
nerdale.

Dobson, John, yeoman, Stonester

Gunson, John, yeoman, Birks.

Hellon, Jos., yeoman, Low Hall.

Sharp, Law., yeo., Hawse House.

Stable, Ed., innkeeper, Newfield

Stephenson, Thos., grocer, Hall
Dunnerdale.

Stephenson, Jas., yeo., Boll Hall
Stephenson, John, yeo., Knott

End.
Turner, John, schoolmaster,

Beckhouse.
Tyson, Rev., John, minister of

Seathwaite, Chapel Garth.
Tyson, D., yeoman, Cockleybeck
Tyson, Hen., yeoman, Hinning-

house.
Tyson, Jos., yeoman, Hollinhouse
Tyson, William, yeoman, Turner

Howe.
Walker, Jn., yeoman, Tonghouse
Whinneray, Robert, yeoman,

Greenbank.
Whinneray, William, yeoman,

Whinneray Ground.

VALE OF ULPHA.

Allason, Henry, yeoman, Low

and High.
Atkinson, William, joiner, Base-

brown Ground.
Braithwaite, Joseph, yeoman,

Hazlehead.

Carter, T., grocer, Church House

Carter, William, grocer, Crook.

Dawson, John, yeoman, Base-
brown Ground.

Dawson, Wm., slate-merchant,
Moorhouse.

DIRECTORY.

YALE OF ULPHA.

233

Dawson, James, shoemaker,
Bridgeend.

Dodgson, John, alehouse keeper,
Browfoot.

Gaitskell, Wm., teacher, School
Cottage.

Gunson, Joseph, miller, &c, Old
Mill.

Hird, Wm., blacksmith, Moor-
house.

Jenkinson, Robert, yeoman, Big-
gart Mire.

Kirkby, Robert, shoemaker,
Church House.

Pearson, Rev., R., officiating
minister of Seathwaite, River-
bank.

Pennington, Robert, yeoman,
Biggart Mire.

Pennington, Phillip, yeoman,
Biggart Mire.

Pennington, Ic, yeo., Craghole.

Pool, Wm., yeoman, Riverbank.

Postlethwaite, William, tailor,
Low Hurst.

Sawrey, J., yeo., Stonethwaite.

Shuttleworth, Thos., innkeeper,
Church House.

Stephenson, Thomas, yeoman,
Holm Cottage.

Vincent, Charles, mining captain,
Holehouse.

Walker, Rev. Jeremiah, minister
of Ulpha, Low Hurst.

Whinfield, John, yeoman, Big-
gart Mire.

Whinfield, John, yeoman, Whin-
field ground.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

RIGG'S

WINDEEMEEE HOTEL

At this Establishment, Families and others visiting the Lakes'
District will meet with every accommodation and attention,

combined with moderate charges.

The Hotel is on an eminence immediately above the terminus
of the Kendal and Windermere Railway, and is so situated as to
prevent the least inconvenience or annoyance from the traffic.

The views of mountain and lake scenery commanded from the
windows of the Hotel are unsurpassed by any in the district —
the Lake Windermere with its numerous islands, being seen nearly
to its utmost extent.

Open and Close Carriages, Cars, and Post-Horses always
in readiness.

11. ADYEETISEMENTS.

LIST OF VIEWS OF THE LAKE SCENERY

BY THE LATE W. WESTALL, A.R.A.

Views at 3s. each.
Bowness, Lake Windermere. — Rydal Lake from Rydal Mount. —
Ullswater, from Gowbarrow Park. — Ullswater, from near Pooley
Bridge. — Keswick Lake, from Castle. — Keswick Lake, from near
Water End. — Vale of Grasmere, from White Moss. — Winder-
mere, from Elleray.

Views at 2s. 6d. each.
Vale of Keswick, from Ambleside Road. — Bassenthwaite, from
Keswick Road. — Coniston Lake, from Bank Ground. — Keswick
Lake, from Friars Crag. — Bowness Bay. — Whitehaven.

Views at 2s. each.
Buttermere Lake, from North side. — Windermere, from Lowwood.
Leathes Water, or Thirlmere. — Windermere from Ferry House.

Views at 8d. each.
Keswick Bridge. — Keswick and Grisedale Pikes. — Keswick Lake
from above Lowdore. — Keswick Lake, from near Water End. —
Stock Ghyll Force. — Lowdore Waterfall. — Skiddaw. — Keswick
Lake, from Applethwaite, — Keswick Lake, from North side of
Castle. — Keswick Lake, from Barrow Common.

Views at 4d. each.
Bowness, Windermere. — Windermere, from Bowness Road. —
Rydal, from the Wood. — Keswick from the North side. — Keswick
Bridge and Greta Hall. — Ennerdale, from the North side.
Or the set in a neat wrapper at 2s. each.

Views at 2d. each.
Windermere Lake, from Troutbeck. — Rydal Lake. — Rydal
Mount. — Room at Rydal Mount. — Grasmere Lake. — Gras-
mere, from Raise Gap. — Langdale Pikes. — Dungeon Ghyll. —
Leathes Water. — Keswick from Browtop. — Lowdore. — Ullswater.
Also the set in a neat wrapper at 2s.

Sold wholesale and retail by Garnett, Windermere, and retail by
the principal Booksellers in the Lake District.

ADYEETISEMEKTS. 111.

ENGRAVING, LITHOGRAPHIC, STEEL, COPPERPLATE,
AND GENERAL PRINTING ESTABLISHMENT.

26, Waterloo Place, Edinburgh.

WILLIAM BANKS,

{Twenty-six years Manager and Draughtsman of the 'Engraving and
Printing Establishment of Mr. W. K. Lizars.)

Returns sincere thanks to his numerous friends, and the public
generally, for the liberal encouragement given him since he com-
menced business in the above premises.

W. B. trusts from his long experience and practical acquaint-
ance with the above departments of art, and by unremitting
attention to the punctual and satisfactory execution of orders,
coupled with moderate charges, to ensure a continued share of
their valued employment.

W. B. will be aided in this by the exertions of his Sons, who
have especially devoted themselves to the higher branches of

Line Engraving, Bank Note Work, and other
Commercial Forms,

where elaborate pictorial embelishment is necessary.

His machinery is all of the most improved kind, the workmen
carefully selected, and nothing but the best materials used.

Designs made for Illustrated Works, and engraved on Steel or
Copper, in the best style of the art.

Bank Notes, Bills, Receipts, Letters of Credit, Cheques, Maps,
Plans, Invoices, Letter Tops, Ornamental Display Bills, Labels,
Circulars, Bills of Lading ; Business, Marriage, or Visiting Cards,
carefully and tastefully Engraved or Lithographed.

Die Cutting in all its branches. Fac-Similes of Old Deeds.
Seal and Wood Engraving. Envelopes Stamped, &c, &c.
Bookbinding by first-class hands.
A 2

IV. ADVERTISEMENTS.

BOWNESS, LAKE WINDEKMEKE.

ULLOCK'S ROYAL HOTEL,

(Late White Lion.)
THE OLDEST ESTABLISHED HOTEL IN THE DISTRICT.

W. BOWNASS,

PEOPEIETOR OF THE ABOTE HOTEL,

111 returning his warmest thanks to the Royal Families, Nobility,
Gentry, and the Public for the liberal support he has hitherto
received, begs to assure his patrons that it shall be his continued
study to merit a continuance of their support, by paying every
attention to their comfort, combined with a strict view to economy
and convenience of those who may favour him with their patronage.

Within a few years this Hotel has had the honour of receiving
the patronage of the late Queen Dowager, the King of Saxony,
the Prince of Prussia, the Grand Duke Constantine of Russia,
and most of the principal English and Foreign Families of distinc-
tion visiting this romantic and interesting district. It is situated
close upon the Lake, of which it commands extensive views, and
within an easy day's excursion of all the principal Lakes and
Mountains of the district.

Conveyances of every description kept.

Omnibusses meet every Train at the terminus of the Kendal
and Windermere Railway, one mile and a-half from Bowness, and
Private Carriages if required. Bowness is within nine hours of
London, four of Manchester and Liverpool.

Agent to the Lancashire Insurance Company. — House and JEstate Agent.

ADVERTISEMENTS. V.

JOHN ATKINSON,
KING'S HEAD INN, LEGBERTHWAITE,

Vale of St. John.

BEST EISHINa IN CUMBERLAND.

The King's Head Inn is situated —
5^ miles south of Keswick.

5 miles from Threlkeld.

4 miles from Borrowdale, over Armboth Fell.

6 miles from Patterdale.
6-£ miles from Grasmere.

3 miles from the summit of Helvellyn.

Tourists may here find good accommodation and well-aired beds.

The Mails change horses four times every day. A guide always
in readiness at this Inn. A neat conveyance to he had.

HAYTON'S LODGINGS,

Are situate at Windermere Bank, near the village of Bowness,
and close to the road from the Railway.

The View of the Head of Windermere from the Rooms is one of
the most sublime and extensive in the district.

TERMS MODERATE.

JOHN GRXER,
WATERKEAD NURSERY, AMBLESIDE.

Lake Tourists and others are respectfully invited to visit the
above Nursery, where will be found an extensive selection of
Roses, also all the New Hardy Hybrid Rhododendrons, and a
choice selection of Coniferse, together with a general stock of
Shrubs, Fruit Trees, &c, &c. Descriptive Catalogues may be had
upon application.

A 3

VI,

ADYEKTISEHEtfTS.

KING'S ARMS HOTEL,

COMMERCIAL INN AND POSTING HOUSE, KESWICK.

J. BOWES,

Begs most respectfully to thank the supporters of his establish-
ment for the patronage they have given him ; and at the same
time to inform them and visitors generally, it shall always be his
study to give every satisfaction to his guests, without any regard
to trouble or expense.

Open and Close Carriages, Covered Cars, Post Horses, and
Mountain Ponies.

RAMPLING'S WATERLOO HOTEL,

(Opposite the General Post Office J

WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBURGH.

Commodious and elegant Coffee Room, large and well-ventilated

Smolcing Room. Suites of Apartments, <fyc.
Strangers and others visiting Edinburgh will find that, for Situa-
tion, Comfort, and Accommodation, combined with Moderate
Charges, this elegant and extensive Establishment (which was
built expressly for an Hotel, at an expense of upwards of £30,000)
is unequalled in the City. The Wines and Cuisine are of first
quality.

A moderate fixed charge for servants.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

Vll.

HAEWOOD'S

SPLENDID VIEWS IN THE LAKE

DISTRICT.

Ambleside.

Ara Force, Gowbarrow Park.

Bowness.

Bowness Village.

Bowder Stone, Borrowdale.

Butterniere & Cruminock Water.

Buttermere Hawes.

Buttermere Inn.

Coniston.

Derwent and Keswick.

Dumnail Raise.

Esthwaite Water.

Greta Hall, Keswick.
Kendal.

„ Higbgate.

„ Stramongate Bridge.
Nawortb Castle.
Rydal Lake.

„ a glimpse tbrougb tbe trees.
Skiddaw & Bassenthwaite Water
Storrs Point.
Ullswater.
Wast Water.

Windermere, the Perry Point,
from Bowness.

Grasmere.

And a great variety of others.
Price, per Quire, on Cream Letter Paper, 3s. 6d., or 2d. each.
„ „ „ Note Paper, Is. 9d., or Id. each.

THE ILLUSTRATED LETTER AND NOTE VIEWS

Are one of the most pleasing and desirable objects which can be
given to a correspondence between devoted and esteemed con-
nections, and are meant to convey some idea of the locality and
charms of the place of residence (especially if temporary) ; for then
there is generally a freshness of feeling to appreciate the surround-
ing beauties in the most attractive and interesting subjects.

harwood's views in the lake district.
May also be had in Books, very neatly done up in Illuminated

Covers.

Books, with Six Views, price Is.
Ditto, with Nine, Is. 6d.
Ditto, with Twelve, 2s.
Ditto, with Fifteen, 2s. 6d.
Ditto, with Eighteen, 3s.

Books, with Twenty-one Views,

price 3s. 6d.
Ditto, with Twenty -four, 4s.
Ditto, with Twenty-seven, 4s. 6d.
Ditto, with Thirty, 5s.

Sold by Garnett, Post Office, Windermere ; Belcher, Bowness ;
Nicholson, Ambleside; Ivison, Keswick ; Hudson, Robinson,
Dawson, Atkinson, and Hargraves, Kendal; and all respectable
Stationers and Booksellers.

Vlll. ADVERTISEMENTS.

THE EXHIBITION OF PICTURES,

CONSISTING PRINCIPALLY OF

VIEWS IN THE LAKE DISTRICT,

Painted ly Mr. and Mrs. ASPLAND,

Will re-open for the season early in June, at their New Picture
Gallery, near the Church, Bowness.

Visitors are requested to furnish themselves with Tickets of
Admission, which may be obtained at the principal Hotels, and at
Armstrong's Museum, or to present their cards of address.

MRS. DIXON,
DERWENTWATER HOTEL, PORTINSCALE.

The Hotel stands on the margin of the Lake, and commands
extensive Views of the Lake and Mountain Scenery, and was
patronized by Lord John Russell and family.

The Hotel is a quarter of a mile from Crosthwaite Church, and
one mile distant from Keswick. The mails pass and re-pass daily.

Pleasure Boats, Post Horses, and neat Conveyances to be
had at the Hotel.

TOWNSON'S HOTEL,

WHITE LION AND COMMERCIAL HOUSE,

AMBLESIDE,

Is centrally situated, and affords to visitors every convenience for
Lake and Mountain Tours, and at which will be found every com-
fort that Good Rooms, Cleanliness, Attention, and Moderate
Charges combine.

There is attached to the Hotel a good Billiard Room. An
Omnibus daily to meet the Steamers at Windermere Waterhead.

N.B. Parties may obtain on application every information
respecting Private Lodgings.

si

ADYEETISEMEKTS. IX.

PATRONIZED BY THE ROTHSCHILDS'.

CLOUDSDALE'S CROWN HOTEL,

BOWNESS, WINDERMERE.

N.B. THE CROWN is the large Hotel
near the Lake, " furnishing Ninety Beds."

GIBB'S HOTEL,

STIRLING.

Tourists visiting Stirling and the Highlands will find that, for
situation, comfort and accommodation, combined with moderate
charges, this extensive Establishment is unequalled in the town.

Suites of Apartments, &c, Commodious and Elegant Coffee
Room for Ladies and Gentlemen.

Coaches daily during the summer months to Callander, the
Trossachs, and Lochkatrine, at 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. ; to Lochearn-
head, Killin, Kenmore (Taymouth Castle), Aberfeldy, and Dun-
keld, at 9 a.m.

Posting in all its departments.

An Omnibuss belonging to the Hotel waits the arrival of the
different Trains and Steamers, to convey passengers and their
luggage to the Hotel free.

A Note per post the day previous, addressed D. CAMPBELL,
Gibb's Hotel, Stirling ; Apartments, Post Horses, Carriages of any
description, or Seats in the different Coaches will be secured.

This Hotel is within five minutes' walk of the ancient Castle of
Stirling, the Railway Station, and the Steam Wharf.

P.S. — This is the only Hotel in Stirling in connection with
McGregor's Hotel, Callander, and also McGregor's Hotel, Tros*
sach's, Ardchiancrochan.

QibVs Hotel, March, 1856.

X. ADVERTISEMENTS.

M. & N. HANHART,

64, CHAELOTTE STEEET, EATHBONE PLACE, LONDON,

LITHOGRAPHERS, DRAUGTSMEN AND
LITHOGRAPHIC PRINTERS.

THE LAKES OF CUMBERLAND AND WESTMORLAND.

LATELY PUBLISHED by M. AND N. HANHART, 64,

Charlotte Street, Rathbone Place, London.

Price : Coloured, 2s. eacli ; Plain, Is. each,
A SERIES OP VIEWS of the most interesting Spots in the

Lake District.

1- Ambleside.

15. Keswick.

2. Mill at Ambleside.

16. Derwentwater.

3. Ambleside Mill (Second View)

17. Lowdore Cascade.

4. Stock Ghyll.

18. Bowder Stone.

5. Grasmere.

19. Two Inns, Buttermere.

6. Grasmere, from Redbank.

20. Buttermere.

7. Rydal Water.

21. Crummock.

8. Rydal Upper Fall.

22. Scale Force.

9. Rydal Lower Pall.

23. Dungeon Ghyll.

10. Kirkstone Pass.

24. Windermere.

11. Ullswater.

25. Windermere Waterhead.

12. Patterdale.

26. Windermere, from Lowwood

13. Patterdale Church.

27. Windermere, from Bowness.

14. Airey Force.

28. Wordsworth's Grave.

Messrs. Hanhart have also published Oil-printed facsimiles of

original sketches by T. L. Rowbotham, of

TWELVE SKETCHES IN THE LAKE DISTRICT: —

Buttermere. — Skelwith Force. — Derwent Water. — Grasmere.

— Wast Water. — Ennerdale. — Colwith Force. — Dungeon Ghyll.

— Ullswater. — Scale Force. — Airey Force. — Keswick. All at
Five Shillings each.

Printed and Sold by M. & N. Hanhart, 64, Charlotte- Street,
Fitzroy Square, London.

Architectural Drawings, Maps, Plans, Circulars, Sfc.

i

ADVERTISEMENTS. XI.

THE AUTHOR'S EDITIONS.

OLLENDORFF'S METHOD of LEARNING to READ,
WRITE, and SPEAK a LANGUAGE in six months.

1. ADAPTED to the GERMAN. Written expressly for the
English Student. By Dr. H. G. Ollekdoeff. In two parts.
Part I., eighth edition, price 12s., 8vo., cloth. Part II., third
edition, price 12s., 8vo., cloth. The parts sold separately.

*#* Introductory Book to Dr. Ollendorff's method adapted to
the German, containing a new system of facilitating the study of
the German declensions, and rules on the gender of substantives.
12mo, cloth. 3s. 6d.

2. ADAPTED to the FRENCH. Written expressly for the
English Student. By Dr. H. G. Ollekdokff. 8vo., sixth edition,
containing a Treatise on the Gender of French Substantives, and
an additional Treatise on the French Verbs. Price, 12s., cloth.

3. ADAPTED to the ITALIAN. Written expressly for the
English Student. By Dr. H. G. Ollendokff. 8vo., third
edition, price, 12s., cloth.

KEYS to the ITALIAN, FRENCH and GERMAN SYSTEMS,

prepared by the author. Price 7s. each, cloth lettered.

It is necessary for those who desire to avail themselves of the
present method to notice that these are the only English editions
sanctioned by Dr. Ollendorff, and he deems any other totally inade-
quate for the purpose of English instruction, and for the elucida-
tion of the method so strongly recommended by Captain Basil
Hall, and other eminent writers. They should be ordered with
the publisher's name, and, to prevent errors, every copy has its
number and the author's signature.

The above works are copyright.

London : Whittaker and Co., and Dulau and Co., and to be had
of any bookseller.

Xll. ADVERTISEMENTS.

WINSOR AND NEWTON'S

ARTISTS' MATERIALS

JOHN GARNETT,

printer, SSoofeseller, Stationer, antJ 3Lftrariatt,

Post- Office, Windermere,
Respectfully begs to inform Lake Tourists and others, that he
has constantly on sale Artists' Materials for Oil and Water Colour
Painting, Sketching, &c. ; all the Guide Books, Views, and every
other article in his business useful to visitors of the Lake District.

HOUSE AGENT.

All Parcels to or from J. G's Establishment conveyed in the
district free of charge.

A SERIES OF TINTED OUTLINE VIEWS,

Drawn by T> L. Aspland, and engraved by W. J. Linton.

COMPRISING,

Across the Head of Stockghyll. — Windermere, from near Storrs.
— Coniston, from near Bank Ground. — Upper Reach of Ullswater.
— Grasmere, from Red Bank. — Derwent Water, from Castle
Head.

4<d. each, or the set in neat Packet, 2s.

TRAVELLING MAP

OF THE

ENGLISH LAKES AND ADJOINING COUNTRY.

Geologically Coloured, by John Miithven.
Size 16| by 18 inches. Mounted, in cloth case, for pocket, 2s. 6d.

" This is truly a beautiful chart. As far as our local knowledge enables us
to pronounce, it is topographically most accurate, and the name of our towns-
man, John Euthven, is a sufficient guarantee for correctness in the more scien-
tific department." — Kendal Mercury.

J. Garnett, Windermere, and all booksellers.

ADVERTISEMENTS. Xlll.

Noiv Ready, Price Is.,

A GUIDE TO WINDERMERE,

With Tours to the neighbouring Lakes and other
interesting places,

BY HARRIET MARTINEATL

To which are added Excursions to and from Keswick, and an
account of the Flowering Plants, Ferns and Mosses of the District,
and a complete Directory.

Illustrated with a Series of neio and beautiful Prints and an
accurate Map,

" How different is her (Harriet Martineau's) air of conscious but matter-of-
course superiority from the efforts of ordinary mortals who write Guide Books.
If she gives herself the airs of an instructress the instructress soon shows
herself to be a delightful companion." — Westmorland Gazette.

"Harriet Martineau has executed her task with her well-proved ability,
and has produced a hand-book the most graphic in description and the most
lively and vigorous in style that has yet appeared. — Kendal Mercury.

JUST PUBLISHED,

Handsomely bound in Cloth, Gilt, Demy 4to, price 10s., 6d.

A COMPLETE

GUIDE TO THE ENGLISH LAKES,

BY HAEEIET MAKTINEAU,

Illustrated with a series of beautiful Steel Engravings and
Coloured Prints, Elevations of the Mountains, and a large and
accurate Map, coloured Geologically, by John Ruthven of Kendal ;
to which are added an account of the Flowering Plants, Ferns and
Mosses of the District.

Foolscap Svo edition of the above,
Including a complete Directory to the District; best cloth, Gilt, 5s.

Published by J. Garnett, Windermere. London : Whittaker & Co.

XIV. ADYEETISEMENTS.

JUST READY,
A SERIES OF HIGHLY FINISHED

VIEWS OF THE LAKES,

Engraved in line, by W. Banks & Son, of Edinburgh.
COMPRISING : —

Grasmeue, prom Lotohrigg Teerace, from a painting by

George W. Pettit.
Ullswatee, from the entrance to Grisedale, ditto, ditto.
Stanley Ghyll, Eskdale, from a drawing by T. L. Aspland.

BOEEOWDALE, EROM NEAR THE BOWDER STONE, ditto, ditto.

Head oe Windermere, from a painting by Alfred Pettit.
Derwent and Bassenthwaite Lakes, eeom Watenlath, ditto.
On large paper, Is. each.
Ackermann and Co. : London. — J. Garnett, Windermere.

HIGHWAYS AND BYEWAYS

OE

ENGLISH LAKE SCENERY,

Depicted in a series of Oil Paintings,
BY MESSRS. ALFRED AND GEORGE W. PETTITT,

Now exhibiting at the
GALLERY OF FINE ARTS, GRASMERE,

Near the resting place of Wordsworth and Coleridge.
From these Pictures Tourists will gather much valuable infor-
mation respecting the scenes worth visiting. They are selected
with great care, and the outlines of the numerous Mountain ranges,
are strictly true to nature. The collection consists of several
Views of each of the principle Lakes, with the Tarns, Waterfalls,
Passes, Rivers, and Abbeys of the district.

Visitors will find the Gallery (which has been built especially for
this collection) an agreeable lounge at all times, and the pictures on
its walls, a capitally Illustrated Guide through the Lake District.

Admission, Is. — Ticlcets for the Season, 2s. 6d., may be had
at the Gallery of Fine Arts, Grasmere.

ADVERTISEMENTS. XV.

EURKESS ABBEY HOTEL,

THOMAS SLANEY, PBOPKIETOE,

Begs to state that the above Hotel has been considerably increased
in accommodation and furnished in a style that will insure to
Families and Tourists patronizing it the comfort of a private house
with the independence of an Hotel. First Class Coffee and Bil-
liard Rooms.

SCALE OF CHARGES.

FIRST CLASS.

SECOND CLASS.

S.

d.

s.

d.

Breakfast — plain ... 1

6

Breakfast — plain

1

3

„ with meat... 1

9

„ with meat...

1

6

ditto ... 2

0

Dinners — Soup or Fish

Dinner ...

2

0

with Joint or Cutlets,

&c 2

6

Siugle plate of Meat and

Extras charged as per

Bread ...

0

6

Bill of Fare.

Large plate with Vege-

Luncheon or Suppers —

tables, &c.

1

0

Cold Meat 1

6

Teas — plain ... ... 1

6

Teas

1

3

PORT AND SHERRY.

Dinner Wines, 4s., 4s. 6d., 5s. — First Quality 5s. 6d., 6s.

Champagne, Hocks, Mosselles, Santerines, Clarets, Maderias.

Private Sitting Rooms 2s. 6d., 3s. 6d., 5s.

Beds Is. 6d., 2s., 2s. 6d.

Attendance will be charged in the bill.

Special accommodation will be provided for Excursionists by Cheap
Trains at very reasonable rates.

The magnificent Ruins close to the Hotel, are undergoing extensive
additional excavations, which will greatly enhance their interests.
Considerable improvement has already been effected ; the removal
of enormous accumulations of debris, &c, having brought to view
many additional basements of buildings in a good state of preser-
vation, which previously were not supposed to exist.

XVI. ADYEETISEME1STTS.

ANNALES FURNESIENSES.

The History of the Antiquities of Furness Abbey, by the late T. A.
Beck, Esq., dedicated by permission to the Queen. With 26
Steel Engravings, by Le Keux, Wilmor, Carter, &c. ; also Wood-
cuts, coloured facsimiles, &c, &c. Koyal 4to.

This splendidly illustrated volume, of which 250 copies only
were printed, and which sold for seven guineas, is now reduced to
one-half, and will be sent, post-free, to address, by the present
proprietor, S. Souxby, Bookseller, Ulverston, Lancashire, who has
purchased the remainder, on receipt of Post-office order for
£3 13s. 6cL

STEPHEN SOULBY, BOOKSELLER, ULVERSTON.

LAKE DISTRICT COACHES.

The undersigned beg respectfully to inform the Public that their
Coaches run to and from all the Trains arriving and departing
from the Windermere Railway Station, where a Clerk is always in
attendance on the platform ; also daily from the Penrith Station,
Lancaster and Carlisle, to and from all parts of the Lake District.
For times of arrival and departure, see Bradshato's Railway
Guide.

JOHN TEATHER, Royal Oak Hotel, Keswick.

JOHN GELDERD, Gelderd's Hotel, Patterdale.

i

,

' 29.NbrtJiBria.ge.

V E»iyBURftH /^