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THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE DATE
INDICATED BELOW AND IS SUB-
JECT TO AN OVERDUE FINE AS
POSTED AT THE CIRCULATION
DESK.

PR 2 9 1992

THE
COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

The

Complete Home

Landscape

By

Arthur J. Jennings

IN COLLABORATION WITH

Leonard H. Johnson

NEW YORK
THE A. T. DE LA MARE CO. Inc.

1926

M C SUrte CoIU«e

Copyright, 1924, by
The a. T. De La Mare Co. Inc.

First Printing, March 1924
Second Printing, May 1926

CONTENTS

Page

Introduction 1

Principles of Design 3

Styles of Landscape Development 5

Landscape Construction 8-48

Locating the House 8

Clearing the Land 9

Grading 11

Making the Lawn 15

Drives and Walks 25

Walls and Wall Building 41

Plant Materials and Their Use 49-80

The Objects of Planting 49

Distances for Planting 50

The Planting Plan 52

The Principles of Planting 62

Pruning 68

Winter Protection 78

Garden Design and Garden Making 81-118

Color in the Garden 81

The Formal Garden 83

Rose Gardens . 87

The Perennial or Hardy Border 93

The Rock Garden 99

Water Gardens 105

Garden Accessories 109

Selected Plant Lists for Various Purposes 119-150

Plants for General Use 119

Plants for Shaded Situations 129

Plants for Dry Soils 130

Plants for Wet or Marshy Places 132

Plants for the Seashore 133

Plants for Binding Banks 133

Plants for Windbreaks and Screens 134

Plants for Formal Hedges 134

Dwarf Hedge Plants for Edging 135

Plants for Natural Hedges 135

viii THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Contents — continued

Page

Plants for Sky Line Effects 136

Berry-bearing Trees and Shrubs 137

Plants Attractive to Birds 138

Plants with Colored Foliage 139

Rapid Growing Plant Materials 140

Trees and Shrubs with Colored Bark 141

Plants for City Conditions 141

Street or Avenue Trees 142

Plants for Foundation Plantings 143

Ground Covers 144

Vines for Various Purposes 145

Aquatics or Water Plants 146

Plants for Rock Gardens 146

Succession of Bloom in Flowering Shrubs 148

Index 151

••<J«i ffl mC>"

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Page
Frontispiece — Suggested plan for the arrangement and planting of a home

plot iv

Fig. 1 — Simple shrubbery border flanking a gate 2

Fig. 2 — Placing the house on the property 6

Fig. 3 — The subsoil should be graded as carefully as the surface 7

Fig. 4 — When the house sets below the street grade 8

Fig. 5 — If the old sub-grade pitches toward the house 9

Fig. 6 — If the house is located above the street level 10

Fig. 7 — If the house sets well back from the street 10

Fig. 8 — Simplifying the grading of the suburban lot 11

Fig. 9 — Possible treatments of a slightly rising lawn 12

Fig. 10 — Lowering the grade around valuable trees 14

Fig. 11 — Raising the grade around valuable trees 15

Fig. 12 — A good outlet should be provided for drains 16

Fig. 13 — Simple but effective type of dry well 16

Fig. 14 — Type of dry well for a lawn 17

Fig. 15 — Tree groups as excuses for curves in a drive 18

Fig. 16 — ^Joining the walk or drive to the highway 19

Fig. 17 — A formal entrance to an estate 20

Fig. 18 — Simple but satisfactory arrangement of a walk 21

Fig. 19 — The walk and drive kept separate 22

Fig. 20 — Sometimes the drive can serve also as a walk 23

Fig. 21 — When a long, straight path is unavoidable 24

Fig. 22 — A long, straight path may have a hedge border 25

Fig. 23 — Connecting the drive and the path 26

Fig. 24 — Where the path is carried around the house 27

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ix

List of Illustrations — continued

Page

Fig. 25 — One way to provide necessary turning space 28

Fig. 26 — An attractive driveway arrangement 29

Fig. 27 — Where a straight path must cross the lawn 30

Fig, 28 — When the service drive joins the main entrance 30

Fig. 29 — The turn-around can sometimes be made oval 31

Fig. 30 — The turn-around on an axis of the house. 32

Fig. 31 — Neighbors can often combine on a party drive 33

Fig. 32 — Construction of four kinds of paths 34

Fig. 33 — Construction of a flagstone walk 35

Fig. 34 — Plan of a stepping-stone walk 35

Fig. 35 — Two kinds of stone walk 36

Fig. 36 — An attractive pattern for narrow brick paths 37

Fig. 37 — The basket pattern for a brick walk 37

Fig. 39 — The herring-bone pattern for brick walks 38

Fig. 39 — Cross-section of water-bound macadam driveway 39

Fig. 40 — Two types of concrete gutter for driveways 39

Fig. 41 — Section of catch basin with removable cover 40

Fig. 42 — Similar type of catch basin for wide drives 40

Fig. 43 — Brick retaining wall 41

Fig. 44— Three types of wall 42

Fig. 45 — Diagram of quoin binder in wall 42

Fig. 46 — Three types of ashler wall construction 43

Fig. 47 — Section through a retaining wall 44

Fig. 58 — A dry wall used as a retaining wall 45

Fig. 49 — Cross-section design for a retaining wall 46

Fig. 50 — Sectional view of a dry wall 47

Fig. 51 — Some planting distances for hedges 48

Fig. 52 — How a hillside can be planted 51

Fig. 53 — The home grounds divided into three portions 52

Fig. 54 — Two important uses of trees 54

Fig. 55 — The trees should frame the house 55

Fig. 56 — Plan of a corner planting 56

Fig. 57 — An attractively planted corner 57

Fig. 58-^^*ian of an informal border 58

Fig. 59 — A suggestion as to foundation planting. 60

Fig. 60 — Well planned grouping of trees along a drive 61

Fig. 61 — Another well planned driveway 62

Fig. 62 — Good use of trees along a branching walk 63

Fig. 63 — Types of trees and their important uses 64

Fig. 64 — Diagrammatic examples of tree grouping 65

Fig. 65 — Right and wrong methods in setting a tree 66

Fig. 66 — Plants heeled in until planting time 67

Fig. 67 — A correctly planted tree 68

Fig. 68 — Trees three inches in caliper should be guyed 69

Fig. 69 — Dynamite can be used in digging holes 69

Fig. 70 — The correct depth for planting an evergreen 70

Fig. 71 — Method of moving large trees in Winter 71

Fig. 72 — "Heading back" to induce bushiness 72

Fig. 73 — Top pruning to produce an upright main trunk 73

Fig. 74 — How to cut off a large limb 74

Fig. 75 — Where to prune flowering shrubs 75

Fig. 76 — Vigorous pruning induces abundant blooming 76

Fig. 77 — Prune a hedge frequently to make it dense 77

X THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

List of Illustrations — continued

Page

Fig. 78 — Well proportioned use of plants on a color basis 79

Fig. 79 — The right use of color foliage 80

Fig. 80 — Some geometrical bases for formal gardens 82

Fig. 81 — Suggested plan for a small formal garden 84

Fig. 82 — Design for more elaborate formal garden 86

Fig. 83 — How to construct a Rose bed 87

Fig. 84 — The depth to plant a Rose bush 88

Fig. 85 — Protecting Roses in Winter 89

Fig. 86 — Two planting plans for a border 92

Fig. 87 — A plan for a simple but satisfactory border 94

Fig. 88 — Plan for a double border along a grass path 96

Fig. 89 — Estimating bulbs for a circular bed 97

Fig. 90 — Section through a well prepared rockery 100

Fig. 91 — The two chief classes of rock 101

Fig. 92 — An overhanging rock as a feature 102

Fig. 93 — Right and wrong ways to set Alpine plants 103

Fig. 94 — Construction details of a small concrete pool 104

Fig. 95 — Cross section of pubbled clay pool 105

Fig. 96 — Cross section of artificial creek bed 106

Fig. 97 — Detail of drain and overflow pipes 106

Fig. 98 — Attractive double concrete pool with waterfall 107

Fig. 99 — Details of foundation and coping construction 108

Fig. 100 — A simple rustic garden seat 109

Fig. 101 — A summer house with open sides 109

Fig. 102 — Making the pergola useful Ill

Fig. 103 — A circular pergola as a central lawn feature 112

Fig. 104 — Elevation of single-post pergola 113

Fig. 105 — Details and dimensions for pergola 114

Fig. 106 — Pergola used to enclose a garden 115

Fig. 107 — A simple but graceful garden gate 116

Fig. 108 — Elevation of arch of garden gate 117

Fig. 109 — Plan and dimensions of an athletic field 120

Fig. 110 — Dimensions for tennis courts 122

Fig. Ill — Dimensions and layout for curling and quoits 122

Fig. 112 — Plan and dimensions for baseball field 124

Fig. 113 — Shape and size of area for lawn bowls 126

Fig. 114 — Playing grounds for soccer football, ice hockey and croquet. . . . 128

^

INTRODUCTION

THE aim of this book is to answer explicitly any question that
might arise relative to the creation and maintenance of the
home grounds, from the time of selecting the site for the house
to the occupancy of the finished home. The word "home" used in
this sense, comprises the grounds as well as the dwelling and service
buildings.

This does sound ambitious, but we believe there is a demand for
such a book, and therefore respectfully submit this one, in an endeavor
to fill the need. The information here contained is the result of over
twenty years joint experience and study of the subject, and of con-
stantly observing and acquiring knowledge from numerous actual
plantings.

Unfortunately, the average property owner has been led to believe
that the word "Landscape" refers only to large areas or estates, and
as a natural result, feels that his own problem is too small to justify
his seeking professional advice. As a matter of fact, it can be said
that the smaller the property the more difficult it is to treat it cor-
rectly. With this in mind, we have incorporated in this work all
details, common (or uncommon) to the city or suburban lot.

Our conception of the mission of the landscape man is "to promote
the comfort and enjoyment of the majority (the urban dwellers) who
as a general rule have little or no access to rural scenery, by introduc-*^
ing into their very homes, that peaceful atmosphere and quiet scenery
found in nature." Indeed it is only when each small property owner
becomes personally interested in beautifying his surroundings that
we can look forward to a national improvement in home and civic
planning and planting. ^

Without the valuable assistance of Mr. L. H. Johnson, it would
have been well-nigh impossible to make this volume as useful and
interesting as the author hopes it is. The value of the illustrations
cannot be overestimated, and their clearness makes them self-ex-
planatory. This is particularly true of the construction work sketches,
although the author is also greatly indebted to Mr. Johnson for much
of the text matter dealing with that particular phase of the subject.
For the logical arrangement and general appearance of the book,
the author is indebted to Mr, E. L. D. Seymour, whose close coopera-
tion has been a great help.

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN

ALL landscape work, no matter what its size or where it is located,
to be a success as an artistic creation must have four dominant
qualities, namely, Unity, Variety, Character and Finish. The
surest way of attaining the efifect aimed at is to be simple in treatment.
The true artist aims to produce the best effect by using the smallest
variety of kinds in as Hmited a quantity as possible.

To be permanent, the work must be done step by step in proper
sequence as outHned here.

All good views should be preserved. Sometimes they can be im-
proved or emphasized by "framing the picture" with trees. Never
fell a tree until the step is found really necessary — but then go ahead
and cut it down rather than mar an otherwise good effect or view.

Unity. Prof. L. H. Bailey very aptly defines unity as applied to
the landscape as follows: "Every yard should be a picture, that is,
the area should be set off from every other area, and it should have
such character that the observer catches its entire effect and purpose
without stopping to analyze its parts. The yard (home grounds)
should be one thing, one area, with every feature contributing its
part to one strong and homogeneous effect." No one item should be
individually conspicuous, but all should help in creating the quiet
harmonious whole.

Variety. When used in this sense we do not mean there should
be many kinds of plant material, but there can and should be variety
in sky line or contour, in texture of fohage, color, lawn surface, without
marring the unity of the place. For instance, while all harsh color
contrasts should be avoided, a dash of color here and there among the
green can be nicely blended and will add interest. The various
characteristic forms of growth, such as horizontal branches against
the erect or vertical, make pleasant breaks and give character as well.

Character. This quahty consists largely of being individual or
"different" from other places similar in size and outHne. It is not easy
to define, as the character of a planting is generally the unconscious
"touch" of the maker. Just as the "stiffness" or "restfulness" of a
room is decided mainly by the appearance and placement of furniture,

3

4 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

SO character of the garden is dependent on selection and arrangement
of material. Each tree or plant should be carefully selected to har-
monize, and so placed that it will merge into the general planting
scheme.

Finish. A beautiful garden or lawn cannot retain a permanent,
finished effect unless it has the touch of one who is really a lover of
plants; one who lives with them, watches their development, and
knows their names as well as their appearance. This interest and
knowledge is quickly acquired by working among your plants and
trees, and personally selecting specimens. Once the flame of enthusi-
asm has been lighted, you will find yourself observing every garden
you pass and taking note of every unusual plant, picturing a place in
your garden where it would "just fit." When you have this interest,
the shrubbery and flower beds will be kept edged, the lawn kept neatly
cut, the hedges evenly cHpped, the weeds kept out, and in general,
cleanliness and tidiness will prevail. This is the "finish" of the garden.

STYLES OF LANDSCAPE DEVELOPMENT

THERE are three main types or styles of gardens which are
classified according to the effects they respectively create.
These are the Architectural, the Natural and the Picturesque.

Architectural, which is distinctly formal (sometimes in a clear-
cut geometrical design) is really a prolongation of the architectural
lines of the house. In such a garden the trees are planted in rows or
otherwise symmetrically; the ground, if uneven, is terraced; and
garden features such as statues, vases, etc., are in evidence.

Natural. As the name indicates this style is simply copying
Nature; it is the other extreme from the architectural garden. Plant
material is used in masses of similar kinds, planted irregularly in
borders with deep bays and promontories, so that the inside line is
sinuous and so the front line of shrubs merges into the lawn without
an abrupt transition. The trees also should be planted in irregular
groups, not haphazard, but where they are needed, so that the whole
effect gives the impression that the location was selected because of
the appropriateness of the planting. The material should be chosen
especially to produce this effect, and all that would tend to stiffen
the informaUty by reason of its set or clearly defined outlines should
be omitted.

Picturesque. This style can be typified by the Japanese garden.
In short, it is appUed to create effects that are unusual by means of
vivid contrast, odd shapes, and a very rugged ground surface.

In selecting the style of garden to be made, due consideration
must be given not only to the house architecture, but also to the land
surface. For instance, where there are abrupt declivities and bold
rocks cropping out, dwarfed natural plant life, and other such evi-
dences of the unusual, the picturesque style can best be employed.
While this style is rather uncommon (because the necessary setting
is rarely met with) it is most interesting when correctly treated.

The architectural style is suggested when the house is well balanced
and symmetrical. On larger places, the immediate surroundings of
such a house can be treated in this formal way and the outlying areas
made informal and natural. In such a case, however, the two parts

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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STYLES OF LANDSCAPE DEVELOPMENT

must be regarded as two entirely separate units and therefore be
distinctly divided.

The most commonly met with style of landscape is the natural
For this the native growth on similar soil and in similar locations
should be studied, and an effort made to reproduce the natural effect.
If your grounds are low and more or less moist, only moisture-loving
plants should be used; the composition of the soil will also enter into
the selection of the plant material. In arrangement the planting
should consist of masses containing a number of plants of the same
kind rather than a few each of many different kinds.

It is taken for granted that all exotic and grotesque forms of
plants should be omitted from the natural planting, but this does not
mean that there is to be monotony. There is ample scope for such a
selection that the natural garden will be full of interest and beauty
every day in the year — just as Nature is. The lines of planting should
be in long, easy, graceful curves; bays should be left in the shrubbery
borders; and the trees in groups need not be well-shaped. Here and
there a slightly crooked stem or slant-
ing effect is quite in keeping. In a wild
clump of Birch who ever saw each|tree]a
perfect, symmetrical specimen ?

g sirip Le^r paper i

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Fig. 3.— The subsoil^should be graded just as carefully and almost as accurately as the

finished surface. This also shows how a line of drain tile can be laid to keep water from

seeping into the cellar.— See pages 11 and 16

LANDSCAPE CONSTRUCTION

LOCATING THE HOUSE

THE house should be so placed on the property as to give the
maximum pleasure and comfort to the owner or occupants.
It should provide for good views and scenes from the interior
as well as convenient access and good circulation to all parts of the
property (Fig. 2). Furthermore, the practical aspect must not be
overlooked — the matter of drainage — so the house should be set on a
rise where the natural grade drops away in every direction. It is not
necessary that the highest spot be selected, but it is most important
that natural drainage be assured.

Unfortunately the modern trend is to build all small houses in
straight rows facing the street. While it is desirable that the best
architectural features be in evidence, it is not necessary that the house
face the street in every instance. For instance, would it not be much
more enjoyable if the service or kitchen side of the house faced the
street, so as to make the rear grounds quite private and the service
side of easier access to the street ? In such a case the building line
can be maintained, but perhaps more attention might be paid to the
architectural Unes of that side of the house. In the northeastern
states the best exposure is facing southeast, but if there happens to
be an unusually good distant view in some other direction, the house
should be built so that the hving rooms command a good perspec-
tive of the picture.

However, inasmuch as the majority of small houses are built to
face the street, it will, perhaps, be best to take up the subject from that

Fig. 4.— When the house sets below the grade of the street, a gracefully graded lawn—
as shown here— adds much to the appearance of the property. In all cases the ground
in the immediate vicinity of the house should slope away from it
8

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS 9

standpoint. It is preferable to set the house a reasonable distance
back from the street, allowing in front a good sweep of lawn that can
be planted artistically, as the true entrance of the home should be.
Furthermore, it is most advisable that the kitchen side be nearer the
property Une than is the case with a house in the center of a lot.
This allows a good garden and private lawn area, and reduces the
service yard to its proper proportions — which is the minimum area
that permits of maximum service.

Clearing the Land

PRESUMING the property in question to be covered with under-
growth, brush, and trees of all sizes, it will have to be cleared.
After locating the spot for the house, the best trees, standing in
approximately the right places (see page 55) should be marked that
they may be protected against damage. The same may be done with
existing shrubbery. All other plant material should then be cleared
ofif, not by simply cutting it off, but by taking out the entire root
systems. All small bushes can be grubbed out by hand, but if the
bushes are large and vigorous, they will have to be pulled out with
horses and a chain, the latter to be wrapped several times around the
bush. Larger trees can be first cut down to four or five feet, then
dug around and pulled out with a block and tackle fastened to a large
tree. (But be sure to protect this anchor tree from injury.)

Old stumps that cannot be taken out in this way can be blasted
with dynamite. When using dynamite it is advisable to cover the

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Fig. 5.— If the old sub-grade pitches toward the
house, water will usually find its way into the cellar
unless extra precautions are taken. Often the sub-
grade can be leveled up by filling in with stiff clay
or other impervious material, as shown here

WJ'/?/Mmy^!>i>^

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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Fig. 6.— If the house is located above the street level and the grade is quite steep, the
approach and lawn may be treated as in (A) above by providing a series of terraces and
retaining walls. However, in general, a treatment such as shown in (B) is much to be pre-
ferred

charge with a sheet of old canvas or something similar to keep the
particles of earth and wood from flying. Before placing the stick of
dynamite, make a hole with a crowbar well under the stump; after
inserting the fuse and cap in the explosive, insert the resulting cartridge
in the hole, letting it lie on a solid bottom if possible as the tendency
is to shoot downward. Then fill the hole with stiff clay, tamping it in
firmly with a wooden stick — and it is ready for firing. The size of the
charge needed depends upon the size and rigidity of the stump and
must be learned through experience, but one stick will do wonders.
In crowded places where

it is not permissible to » t^ c! poT-<^k

blast, a stump will have
to be dug out by hand.
It is often possible to
take it out in sections, by
splitting it with wedges
after the roots have been
cut and loosened.

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Fig. 7.— When the house sets well back from the street, a terrace can often be used to good
advantage. But it must be well proportioned to produce a favorable effect. The dis-
tance A-B in the two smaller sketches should always be as great as or greater than the
distance A-C, as illustrated in the larger sketch at the bottom

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

Grading

THE next step is to study and work out on paper the changes in
grades, if any are necessary, and to designate the planting areas,
walks, drives, house outline, division of property, lines of tile that may
be necessary for drainage, and all such features, as well as existing
trees, etc. After the problems are worked out satisfactorily on paper,
the actual work can be done by following the plan. Terracing and
the building of permanent features such as retaining walls, pools, and
garden steps should be done at this time. Their actual construction
will be described later.

Where there is any cut or fill to be made the topsoil should first
be stripped off and piled in a convenient place. If it is found that
under-draining is necessary, the tile can be laid at this time. (For
methods of drainage see under lawn making, page 15). The stripping
can be done with a scoop on larger places, or with a wheelbarrow,
where but little is necessary. We are now deaUng with the subsoil
which must be graded just as carefully as the finished surface (Fig. 3).
The purpose of grading is to insure proper drainage, improve the
contour of the land surface, and give a good setting to the house.
If the house is set lower than the street level, the drop from the street
might be shghtly emphasized for a distance and then the ground

Fig. 8.— Simplifying the grading of the average suburban lot in which the ground slopes

from the house down to the sidewalk. A combination of gentle grades is easier to care for

and looks better than abrupt changes crowded into a small space (see page 13)

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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Fig. 9a. — Possible treatments of a slight rise in a narrow suburban front lawn. See
facing page

graded up toward the house. In this way good drainage is provided
and the house is made to set apparently higher, with a tastefully
graded front lawn (Fig. 4). Should the natural grade pitch right
down to the house, it is advisable to firmly pack stiff clay against the
foundation walls so that water will not He against them and seep into
the cellar (Fig. 5).

InV case where the house site is considerably above the street level,
the area between can be either terraced or sloped gradually (Fig. 6).
The terrace is recommended when the ground is more or less rugged,
with^wide variation in levels, as a level space must be provided for
the house. Where this is done, the terraces should be as wide as is
feasible — not less than ten or twelve feet — not only for the sake of

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— GRADING

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Fig. 9b. — (A), (B) and (C) are all less desirable than (D). See facing page

beauty but also for utility, as walking on a wide terrace gives a sense
of security. The distance from the bottom of the terrace or retaining
wall to the edge of the grounds should, however, be considerably
greater than the width of the terrace itself (Fig. 7).

Generally speaking, a gently rolling surface is much more desirable
and easier to maintain than a terraced area, especially if the place is
at all large. The average high city lot can be graded so that the
surface slopes toward the street at an inclination of about one inch
to one foot, then at the sidewalk this slope can be increased, making
the two grades merge. In this way the familiar difl&culty of cutting
the grass on the terrace is overcome or rather eliminated, and the
appearance is decidedly better (Fig, 8A). If the house is only about
three feet or less above the street level, the best treatment is to make
a gradual slope from the sidewalk up to the house level. In Fig. 9,
(A), (B) and (C) illustrate common methods of grading the front, all
of which are condemned for various reasons; (D) is decidedly better.

14

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

All rubbish and large
stones should be taken away,
then, when the subsoil is
graded, the topsoil can be
spread. It is a good idea
to excavate a little (about
eighteen inches) in the plant-
ing areas and fill in with
good soil. The matter of
fertilizing and improving
soils is discussed under "Lawn
Making" (page 18). Some-
times when the revised grade
is considerably above the
old surface, it is desirable
to save an old tree, too large
for transplanting. This can
be accomphshed by building
a "well" of bricks or large
stones around the base to
allow for circulation of air
(Fig. 11). When the new
grade is below the old, gently
mound up the soil above the
roots of the tree for a good distance from the trunk (Fig. 10).

Fig. 10.— If, in grading, the general level is
lowered where valuable trees stand, gentle
mounds should be left around and over the
roots of such specimens as shown here in
cross section

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— THE LAWN 15

MAKING THE LAWN

THE lawn or greensward is the ground or "canvas" upon which
the picture is to be produced. It is, in effect, the carpet of the
outdoor living room, and it is therefore of prime importance that it
should be as perfect as possible. A poor greensward will mar an
otherwise good picture; and on the other hand, a good sweep of green-
sward wiU detract attention from a mediocre planting. The care in
making and maintaining the lawn should therefore be in keeping with
its importance.

DRAINAGE

On the average small property underdraining is rarely necessary,
but all low-lying places should assuredly be properly tiled. First of
all, a good outlet must be located, such as a ditch or creek, or even the
sewer. The mouth of the drain — that is, the end tile — should be placed
about two feet above the mean water level in the outlet (Fig. 12).
From this point the drainage system should be laid up to the head or
highest point touched by the drain. Three-inch tile is sufficiently
large for almost any work, and it should be laid about three to three
and one-half feet deep, following the lowest land. Generally one
central line with laterals is all that is necessary, but where an extensive
operation is needed the main lines are placed as near together or as
far apart as the conditions warrant.

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Fig. 1 1.— If the grade must be raised about a valuable tree that it is desired to save, make
a "well" of bricks or large stones around the trunk to prevent smothering it

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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Fig. 12.— A good outlet should be provided for every main drainage line. The tile should
follow the low ground, about three feet below the surface, and the end should open into
a ditch or sewer two feet above the mean water level to prevent backing up and flooding

The narrow ditch is dug with the bottom even so that the tiles
can be laid securely. They must be laid or fitted tightly together,
end to end, but not cemented or joined in any way. The result desired
is that water will filter in through the joints, although soil cannot
enter to clog the drain. A fall of approximately six inches in 100 feet
will carry off all surplus water, and even less than this will serve the
purpose, providing the drain is laid correctly. Laying a drain with

only a very slight
inclination is a task
for a skilled engineer
and is best left to
such as are capable
and experienced in
these matters.

A line of tile laid
at the bottom of
the cellar foundation
will carry oflf water
that might otherwise
seep through the
walls(Fig.3).Where
there is only a small
amount of surface
water to take care
of, a dry well can be
easily constructed,
sufficiently large to
handle the surplus.
Figures 13 and 14

Fig. 13. — A simple but effective type of dry well for use

in connection with walks, drives and paved areas. The

dimensions given are satisfactory where a limited amount

of water is to be taken care of

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— THE LAWN

17

illustrate suitable methods more clearly than word descriptions.
The style shown in Fig. 13 is effective on walks, drives, and paved
areas, while that shown in Fig. 14 can be used on the lawn.

SOIL PREPARATION

The method followed in preparing the soil depends upon the
richness of the natural deposit, but as most soils can be improved, the
following directions can be applied in practically every case.

It can be stated generally that all heavy clay soils are benefited by
working in an inch or more of sand or road grit; for very sandy soils
the same quantity of clay or loamy clay should be applied. All drain-
age and grading being finished and the topsoil being in place, spread a
heavy layer (about four or five inches) of rotten manure over the
ground. This will be approximately one-half ton to one thousand
square feet, or twenty tons to an acre. Plow or dig this under deeply,
and then scatter slaked Ume, using 100 pounds to 1000 square feet,
which is about two tons to an acre. If crushed limestone is
used, double the
quantity in order to
make the treatment
equally effective. The
lime should be raked
or harrowed in thor-
oughly so that it is
scarcely visible. Let
the land settle for ten
to fourteen days,
when it should be
raked repeatedly until
the surface is friable
and free from lumps
or stones. This thor-
ough raking is most
important in the for-
mation of good turf,

and represents time ^\S- 14. -Type of dry well that can be constructed in
^ a lawn to take care or surplus surrace water, to prevent

and effort well spent. washing and marshy spots, etc.

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

SOIL PREPARATION ON A LARGE AREA

Where an extensive lawn is to be made and where durability
is a prime requisite, more time must be allowed in the prepa-
ration of soil, and a more complete treatment given, the essentials
of which are here outUned. After plowing under the manure,
and harrowing in the lime as before (which in this case should
be done in August) the area should be sown with Rye, using
one and one-half bushels to an acre, with twenty pounds of
Hairy Vetch added for Winter' cover. In the Spring, just as
soon as the ground is dry enough to work, plow under the
Rye and Vetch and apply a good fertilizer at the rate of about
eight hundred pounds to an acre. The following mixture contains
all the desirable properties:

300 lbs. acid phosphate.
200 lbs. cottonseed meal.
100 lbs. bonemeal.

50 lbs. nitrate of soda.

50 lbs. kainite.

Harrow this mbcture in
thoroughly, then sow
Soy Beans or Cow Peas
at the rate of two bush-
els to one acre. This
crop will be in bloom
during July, when it
should be turned under.
Then cultivate the
ground lightly for a
month or more. By this
time the soil is settled,
and should then be
raked repeatedly, as
recommended previously,
preparatory to sowing
the lawn grass seed.

The best time for
sowing is early May or

Fig. 15.— Groups of trees or shrubs, as (A) and (B),

should be provided as "excuses" for curves in a drive

that is deliberately diverted from a straight line

(See page 25)

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— THE LAWN 19

late August. The disadvantage of the Autumn sowing is the
possibility of thunder showers washing the seed into small depres-
sions, but if this can be overcome the Autumn is really to be
preferred. The seed germinates quickly, becomes well established
before frost, and is quite tough enough to withstand the heat of
the following Summer. If sowing is done in Spring, it is advisable
to include a quick growing grass (Italian Rye) to shade the other
while young and tender. Another method is to cover the newly
seeded lawn with light burlap or cheesecloth.

SEEDING

Select a still, preferably dull day for seeding. Mark the area to
be seeded in strips of a width that can be reached with a sweep of the
arm. Go over the ground twice, seeding in opposite directions, so as
to insure a perfectly even stand. Don't be afraid of sowing thickly —
five pounds to one thousand square feet, or about six bushels or more
to an acre is not too much. Remember it is much more difficult to
patch up a spotty lawn than it is to secure a good stand at first.
In shady places where a different mixture of seed is used this quantity
can be increased slightly.

Then rake the seed in lightly and go over the lawn with a light
roller. It is then most important that the soil be kept moist to induce

Fig. 16— Where traffic is practically all in one direction, a branching road, drive or walk
should join the main highway at a tangent so as to create a natural, easy curve

20

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Fig. 17.— A formal entrance to an estate in which imposing pillars, sections of curved

fence or wall and a lodge contribute to the effect. The setting in of the gateway makes

the entrance safer than if it were flush with the roadway

germination. It is best to water slowly, with a fine spray and for a
long time so that the soil is moistened to a depth of five or six inches.
A top dressing of really old, well rotted cow manure is very beneficial
in keeping the surface moist; it prevents "baking" besides adding
nourishment.

LAWN GRASS SEED

After considerable experimental work it has been proved con-
clusively that Kentucky Blue Grass is the best turf forming grass for
wear and general use. This, however, takes some time to become
firmly established (until the second season) and therefore a mixture
containing quicker growing kinds of grass seed is advised. While
there are numerous mixtures offered, the bulk of every one should be
Kentucky Blue Grass, and the following has been used with good
success:

Kentucky Blue Grass 5 parts by weight

Recleaned Red-Top 2 parts by weight

Rhode Island Bent 2 parts by weight

To this mixture can be added some White Clover, and sometimes

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— THE LAWN

one part of Italian Rye
grass is included, as it
germinates and grows
quickly, shading the
ground while the other
seed is growing. The
best seed is most eco-
nomical, and it should
be bought by weight
rather than bulk. Good
seed weighs from twenty-
two to twenty-five
pounds to the bushel.

FOR SHADY PLACES

The following mix-
ture of grasses, used in
equal proportions (by
weight) will be found
very good for shady sit-
uations. Alternative
kinds are given, but the
first named should be
used whenever it can be
secured:

Various-leaved Fescue, or Red Fescue

Creeping Bent, or Rhode Island Bent

Kentucky Blue Grass

If the true Wood Meadow grass {Poa nemoralis) can be obtained
it can be substituted for both the Bent and Fescue grasses. In a very
densely shaded place it is sometimes impossible to get a good stand
of any permanent grasses. In such a case Italian Rye grass can be
sown each Spring and a new and practical lawn made each year.
This repetition is necessary as the Italian Rye grass is an annual.

Fig. 18.— A simple but attractive and satisfactory ar-
rangement of the walk and its border planting when the
house is located at one side of the property

As soon as the grass is well started the area should be rolled lightly
to firm the soil about the roots. Allow the grass to grow to about
three inches high, then cut with a freshly sharpened lawn mower,
setting the blade high. The clippings may be left on the lawn. There-

22

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

after, cut as often as
necessary, lowering the
blade as the lawn be-
comes established.

FERTILIZER AND
WINTER COVER

Fig. 19.— If the house is not too far from the street, the

walk and drive can be kept quite separate but parallel,

as shown here

If it is possible to
secure really well rot-
ted, long manure,
spread a half-inch layer
over the lawn in late
Fall or early Winter,
after the ground is
frozen. This can be
raked off in Spring and
the lawn rolled. As a
top dressing, sheep
manure is good, or
nitrate of soda mixed
with an equal amount
of acid phosphate and
one-fourth that amount
of kainit. This should
be applied in early
Spring before growth
commences, at the rate
of about eight pounds
to one thousand square
feet.

TO ELIMINATE WEEDS FROM A LAWN

Experiments recently terminated have proved that by creating
an acid soil all weeds will be caused gradually to disappear, and certain
lawn grasses caused to thrive. The best of these grasses are Creeping
Bent, Rhode Island Bent, Red Top and Red Fescue. They can be
used at the same rate as other seed mentioned, namely, about five
pounds to one thousand square feet. To bring about the desired con-
dition of the soil when making a new lawn, omit the lime and, in fact,
any material or fertilizer that may tend to sweeten (or overcome the

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— THE LAWN

acidity of) the soil. In the place of such fertilizer use the following
mixture at the rate of about 800 pounds to one acre, which is ap-
proximately twenty pounds to one thousand square feet:

Acid phosphate 8 parts by weight

Sulphate of ammonia 5 parts by weight

Muriate of potash 5 parts by weight

Thoroughly mix these in the proportions named and scatter
broadcast in very
early Spring, prefer-
ably in dry weather.
Spread evenly and
then soak thor-
oughly.

In treating estab-
lished lawns, the
grass seed recom-
mended should be
sown and raked in a
few days after ap-
plying the fertilizer,
using a larger quan-
tity of seed than
otherwise suggested.
In order to main-
tain the acid condi-
tion of the soil, the
same fertilizer must
be applied each
Spring, in decreasing
amounts until the
weeds disappear en-
tirely. For this in-
formation the writer
is indebted to the
Agricultural Experi-
ment Station of the
Rhode Island State Fig. 20.— Sometimes the drive can best serve also as a
College at Kingston, ^^"^ ^'^f the street to the house. Here it is well
o fo ' screened from the private area of the garden at the rear

R. I. of the house

y . e

24

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

TO RENOVATE AN OLD LAWN

It is not an easy matter to "patch up" an old, spotted lawn. It is
most improbable that the same mixture of seed will be used as was
sown originally, and hence the texture of the turf will differ. How-
ever, where it is not feasible to dig and remake the lawn, the bad
spots can be improved. Fork over these places to a depth of five or
six inches or deeper, taking out all stones and rubbish that may be
found. Add some good, well rotted manure, scatter the proper pro-
portion of lime (as recommended in "Soil Preparation," page 17) and
rake thoroughly. The seed can then be sown rather more thickly than
suggested before and the patch watered, rolled, and shaded from the sun.
Another easier method of renovating an old lawn would be to rake over
the impoverished places with a sharp, steel tooth rake. This will not
injure the yoimg grass that may be there, but on the other hand, will
rake out old dead material. Seed can then be scattered evenly and

thickly over these
areas, and thorough-
ly roUed with a fairly
heavy roller. If this
work is done in the
Spring and the lawn
is, therefore, Hkely
to be subjected to
the hot suns, it
would be well to
cover the newly
seeded areas with
cheesecloth, burlap,
or some other mate-
rial to break the
sun's rays. They
must, of course, be
kept moist.

Fig. 21— Where the shape
of the lot and the location
and arrangement of the
house combine to make
a long, straight path un-
avoidable, the latter can
be bordered by specimen
plants, such as clipped
Privet bushes, low ever-
greens, etc.

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CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

DRIVES AND WALKS

THE arrangement of walks and drives is one of the most important
things to be considered when designing the layout of grounds
about a home. Of course there is not a great deal of latitude here
when dealing with the small city lot. In this case the drive is usually
straight, running back along the side of the property to the garage
(Fig. 19). One main principle must be adhered to, however, and that
is that both drives and walks must be as direct as possible. On the
large property, the drive may approach the house in easy, graceful
curves so that a glimpse of the garden or some feature of it may be
seen from certain points
along the approach. It
may be said here that
when curves are "just
made" in the drive
they should subse-
quently be planted in
such a manner as to
furnish an excuse for
the turn. For this pur-
pose a clump of shrub-
bery or a group of trees

is placed ab the inside

of the curve (Fig. 15).

In long, straight ap-
proaches avoid the use

of circles, etc. Such

approaches may be

planted out in straight

lines and at even in-
tervals. On the usual

fifty-foot city lot the

methods of running the

walk to the house are

limited. It should not

cut across the center of

the yard as this cuts up

the lawn and makes it

appear really smaller

than it is and diflficult

Fig. 22. -Or
as a border

if preferred, a long, straight path may have
t low, closely clipped hedge. Boxwood is
especially good where it is hardy

26

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

to treat. It is best in
such cases to either run
the walk out to the side
and connect with the
drive, or keep it to the
edge of the property
running it directly to
the sidewalk (Figs. 18,
20, 23 and 25).

THE ENTRANCE

The entrance is
really the first matter
that should claim our
attention, as first im-
pressions of a place will
probably be based on it.
The walk and drive
(and especially the lat-
ter) should enter the
property at approxi-
mately right angles, so
that travel in each di-
rection is equally con-
venient. However,
when the traffic is
practically all to and
from one direction the
driveway can be made
to join the highway
in a natural, easy curve
— on a tangent, so that it seems almost a branch of the road (Fig.
16). It is taken for granted that such an entrance would be placed
on that side of the property from which the trafi&c comes. The
entrance may be either formal and imposing (Fig. 17) with piers,
iron gates, etc., or quite informal — just an opening in the planting,
with or without a small garden gate. When the house is located on
a hill and has considerable property in front, the drive and walk
should follow the easiest contour as nearly as possible.

On a large city or suburban property where the house is centrally

Fig. 23.— Another case in which the best solution of
the approach problem seems to be the connection of
drive and path. (Compare Fig. 20). Here the drive
is apparently a couple of steps below the level of the lawn

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— DRIVES AND WALKS

27

located on the lot, a pleasing drive or walk may be made by the use of
the semi-circular effect shown in Fig. 26. If only the drive is located
in this manner it is poor design to run a wide walk down through the
center thus bisecting the semi-circular area. If a walk must be made
here a narrow stepping-stone walk with the grass between the stones
is much more pleasing and not nearly so conspicuous (Fig. 27).

If the main entrance of the house is at the front, the drive or
walk should parallel the house on that side. If at the side, the walk or
drive should run close enough to the house to permit easy access to
and from the door. Enough room should be left between the drive
and property line to allow of some ornamental planting. If a service
walk or drive is necessary it should either be made entirely for that
purpose and removed from the main part of the house or it should
branch off the main walk or drive as shown in Fig. 28, in which
case it should be made smaller. The service drive should be so placed
that living commodities, such as food, coal, etc., can be delivered
easily, and, if possible, so that it does not touch the private or garden
area of the grounds. Unless the house is set back at least seven ty-*five
feet from the property front it is useless to attempt to make a turn-
around in front, as the
average automobile
requires at least sixty-
five feet in which to
turn. However, if
there is ample room
for such a turn it
should be placed on
the axis of the house
(Figs. 29 and 30). If
a hedge borders a drive
or walk it should be
planted at least eight-
een inches from the
edge; large shrubs
should be at least three
feet back.

On the city lot, the
path leading to the

rpnr hniiQP pnfranrp "^'S- 24.— Where the path, or a branch of it, is carried

rear n o u s e entrance ^^^^^^ ^j^^ ^^^^^^ ,^^^^ ^^^ j^^^^^^j^ -^ ^„j ^1^^ 1,^^!,^^^^^
should be so planned for some foundation planting, if possible

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

as to leave a planting strip between it and the house of not less
than two and a half or three feet (Fig. 24). If space does not permit
this, it is better to have no planting strip at all, but to join the walk
to the foundation wall, as a very narrow
strip is unsatisfactory to treat and hard
to keep neat. On a fiat property of some
size where the house is set well back from
the street, a straight walk direct to the
front entrance looks well, especially if em-
phasized with appropriate planting. On
such a straight walk avoid all obstructions
that would cause a detour (Figs. 21 and 22).
Fig. 31 illustrates the possibility of
uniting the drives of two adjoining proper-
ties, thus saving space and construction
cost. A complete turn-around at the
garage should be at least seventy-five feet
in diameter. On many
small properties which
will not permit of a
turn-around, a backing
space is provided as
shown in Figs. 19, 20
and 25. Such spaces
are too often cramped,
and as a consequence
the lawn is cut and
marred by wheels run
ning off the drive. If
the garage sets quite
close to the street it is
best to simply back the
car out.

DRIVE TURNS

A turn in the drive

u- tc n • u- L .L . ■ J is really necessary only

rig. 25.— One way m which the necessary turning and -' •' -'

backing space can be provided in the drive in conjunc- On large places and, as

tion with the garage, thereby saving considerable space. jj. taJj^gg UP a wide

The dotted lines suggest another possible treatment of . .

the house entrance and path space, it IS generally

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— DRIVES AND WALKS

29

C

7 e

Fig. 26— An attractive driveway arrangement where a house is centrally located on a large
city or suburban lot

located in the rear of the house, unless formally treated as the front
or main driveway. For an easy turn with a large car or truck, a
diameter of at least seventy feet is necessary, measuring from center
to center of the drive. In most instances the drive should be
straight at that section which runs by the side or front of the house.
This suggests that a turn of roughly elliptical shape is more practical
than a perfect circle. Where there are two entrances the whole main
drive can be made a half circle, or a section of a circle (Figs. 26
and 27). Sometimes space can be saved by making a party drive
and turn; this plan is especially useful where space is limited (Fig. 31).

KINDS OF WALKS AND DRIVES

Cement (Fig. 32 A). While rather severe in outUne and cold in
appearance, cement is perhaps the most practical material for the

30 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

"7 ^

J ^

Fig. 27— Where a straight path must cross the grass area enclosed by a semi-circular

driveway entrance, a narrow stepping-stone walk is more pleasing and less conspicuous

than a more formal pathway

%S^

Fig, 28— When the service drive cannot be entirely separated from the main entrance
driveway, it should be laid out as a smaller, subordinate, inconspicuous branch of it

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— DRIVES AND WALKS

31

construction of walks and drives, providing they are not extensive.
There is now obtainable a stain that can be used to soften the glare.

Crushed stone (Fig. 32B). Where there is a considerable length
of driveway, this is most serviceable and fairly easy of upkeep. The
macadam road is durable and good in color, blending in with the
landscape. It is best to secure the bluish material that is rather sharp.
Walks made in this way are adaptable to either formal or informal
designs.

Gravel (Fig. 32 C) is a good material to use. In the confines of
the garden proper gravel is, perhaps, used more successfully than
any other material. It is not, however, recommended for heavily
used driveways, or on inclines.

Cinders. The cinder or ash path is more or less common and
provides a fairly good surface if well tamped down.
It is not a good material for a much used road
except when used as a sub-grade for stone or gravel. / <V

Fig. 29.— Where the lot is limited in size, or where large trees interfere, the turn-around

can be made oval in form. However, 60 feet is the minimum diameter of such a turn;

in fact, most automobiles require 75 feet in which to turn

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Fig. 30.— The turn-around in the drive should be placed
on an axis (the main one preferably) of the house, as
shown here. A hedge bordering a drive should be at
least 18 inches back from it. and larger shrubs should
stand 3 feet or more from it

Stepping-stones
(Fig. 34) make a partic-
ularly good garden
walk, as they are quite in
harmony with the spirit
of the garden. Laid
regularly they can be
used efifectively in the
formal garden, but
they are at their best
used as the informal
walk. Flat stones are
set flush with the lawn
surface so that the
mower wiU pass over
them without the
blades touching. The
stones (or even pieces
of thick slate) should
be set twenty inches
apart from center to
center; a good size to
use is roughly fifteen
inches wide, twenty-
four inches long, and
one and one-half to
three inches thick.
When broken flagstone
is used the pieces should
be fitted together ir-
regularly, varying the
size and shape of the
stones as they are laid.

Brick (Fig. 32D).
For straight walks in
the garden, brickwork
can be made very at-
tractive; and by using
the same kind of brick
as is used in the house,

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— DRIVES AND WALKS 33

one can produce a very unifying effect. There are various patterns
that can be followed in laying the brick and that are adapted to
various widths and locations. (Figs. 36, 37, and 38.)

Flagstone. While not very commonly seen, the flagstone walk
is possibly the most durable of all kinds. The stones may be either
cemented together (Figs. 33 and 35) or just laid in the turf like step-
ping-stones (Fig. 34).

FiELDSTONE OR COBBLESTONES can also be used as a walk either
sunk in the turf or laid in mortar; but this is not as a rule a comfortable
walk unless unusual care has been taken in its construction. (Fig. 35.)

CONSTRUCTION OP WALKS

The first essential in a garden path or walk is that it be firm and
durable. Main walks should not be less than four feet wide.

Cement walks. Fig. 32A shows a cross section of a cement
walk which is practical and durable. If built on a gravel or sandy soil
it probably will not need a foundation of cinders as illustrated, but
on heavy soils this is quite necessary. Three to four inches of concrete
is laid on the cinders and a one-inch finish coat of cement. Expansion

Fig. 31.— Neighbors on adjoining properties can often save space and expense and secure
greater convenience than either could enjoy alone by cooperating on a party drive, turn-
around and, perhaps, a garage

34

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

ytlCT I on y CE/^CTi^T ^ALK

•^CTJOIS ^//'UCADAAV '\>AlK,-

E>r<aaHer Xtast - 1 in
Jfein stone - ^>, in
■Sin sloTNc- 3jn

•yt cT 1 on y G'EAVni. B^tm

ytCTJOi^ / RlLlCK '^Li<..-

6r<3V£l or cinclc^r^ - lam
Cooive gravel acreeiMn^ -<3 tf^
/t-ono robble^ bncVyOroLKer

ricU
Ccesroc eLorve — Sits.

CJTNcleT~3

Fig. 32.— Showing (in cross section) the construction of four popular kinds of paths and

walks. Note that in every case coarse stones or cinders are used as a foundation to insure

good drainage and to prevent the disturbance of the surface by the "heaving" of loam

or clay soils that often occurs in Winter

joints should be provided at short intervals to prevent injury from
frost. These joints are usually filled with asphalt or sand. For the
walk in the garden, cement is hardly recommended as it is too glaring
and hard looking. For such a place the informal stepping-stone or
brick walk is more desirable. If cement is used it should have a little
stain added to the finish coat.

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— DRIVES AND WALKS

k

m

:TNt -morta-r

.1 jQ te"-3:T-'. -a -^T-VigJ . . . ; V •■'

© ir\ «/ c. 1 7\ cj e.

Fig. 33.— Showing the method of constructing a flagstone walk in which the stones are
held in place by mortar

Stepping-stone walks. Such walks may be made from flat
surfaced field or stratified stone laid as shown in Fig. 34. The top of
the stone should be level with the surrounding turf. For this purpose
stone about eighteen inches by twelve inches may be used. Such walks
are best employed where a short, informal path is needed.

Gravel and macadam walks. Fig. 32 B and C illustrate the con-
struction of these styles.

Brick walks. Fig. 32D shows the construction of the brick
walk. Such walks when well designed and constructed are very
pleasing. With the house of either the English, Colonial or Dutch
style of architecture the brick entrance walk can be used effectively.
Where curved walks are needed cement is perhaps better than brick,
as it is easier to handle under such conditions. Small brick walks
may be laid on six inches of clean cinders and an inch of bar sand for
a cushion. Larger walks are best laid on four to five inches of concrete
with a one-inch sand cushion. Brick laid on edge or half bricks on

Fig. 34.— Plan of part of a stepping-stone walk to show the approximate distance at which

the stones should be set. Their surface should be flush with the surrounding turf so the

lawn mower can pass over them easily

36

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Fig. 35. — Two kinds of stone walk viewed from above. The upper is of flagstones
set in mortar; the lower is of field or cobblestones set flush with the turf of the lawn

end usually constitute the curb. A few designs for brick walks are
shown in Figs. 36, 37 and 38. Brick walks should be pointed with
cement mortar or filled with sand. Various types of brick may be
used for the walk, from tapestry brick to the common bench brick,
but where the walk is a conspicuous part of the garden design it is
best to use a good grade of dark colored red brick, and from time to
time go over the surface with boiled linseed oil which will improve
the texture and appearance.

CONSTRUCTION OF DRIVES

Waterbound macadam (Fig. 39). For the average driveway on
the small or large place not constantly subjected to heavy traffic,
a Telford road is perhaps more economical than, and just as serviceable
as any other. The foimdation for such a drive is made of good sized
stone (quarry stone is best) laid at the bottom with the long dimension

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— DRIVES AND WALKS

Fig. 36.— An attractive pattern for a brick walk best used for paths under six feet in width

Fig. 37.— The "basket pattern" for a brick walk in which half -bricks placed on edge form
part of the border. This design is suitable for wide paths

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE
I

Fig. 38. — The "herring-bone pattern" is an attractive type for brick walks and is especially
popular in old-fashioned gardens

of the stones at right angles to the side line of the drive. Fragments
should be used to fill in crevices between the large stones, for if these
crevices are not well filled the finer stone above will gradually work
down and in time cause depressions in the surface of the drive. Over
the large stone should be placed (and well packed) two to three inches
of crushed stone with a maximum dimension of about two inches.
The top layer consists of three-fourths inch stone and should be thick
enough to cover well and form a binder for the layer beneath. Each
layer of stone must be well tamped or rolled. The last layer, which
serves as a surface binder, consists of about a half inch of breaker dust.
This should be wetted down as it is being packed. Such drives should
have an edging to keep all stone within the bounds of the drive. Brick
on edge makes a neat edging and one easily constructed.

Concrete roads. On a small property it is sometimes best to
use the cement ribbon drive which is economical and apparently
leaves more grass area. If the ribbon drive is not used a solid cement
drive may be constructed.

The width of the cement drive and the diameter of the turn-around
are the same as for those of brick, namely, ten feet as a minimum
width for drive, and 65 feet as a minimum diameter for turn-arounds.
The necessity of laying the finishing surface of a cement walk or drive
before the under surface is entirely hard should be kept in mind, for
if the under surface sets before the top is laid the surface will no
doubt peel off.

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— DRIVES AND WALKS

Top Coar/e - I 'clean .breaker c)a ^t
£>oLLon\ - <3' y©-©" storve.

6i>d>niW

Fig. 39.— Cross section of a watcrbound macadam driveway to show its construction.
Note the rubble stone gutter and the cut stone curb used in this particular drive

Drainage. If a road is quite long and built on a grade it should
be provided with a gutter as shown in Fig. 40. If such a road has a
crushed stone or gravel surface it should have considerable camber to
throw off the rainwater before it can wash away any surface material.
A few catch basins (Figs. 41 and 42) will take care of most of the sur-
face water. If a sod gutter is used where the soil is more or less
impervious, a tile drain should be laid six inches below the bottom
of the gutter.

Rubble stone gutters. On large areas where the drives are
wide and long, a rubble gutter is much used. Fig. 39 shows details
of the construction of such a gutter, the average width being about
sixteen to eighteen inches. To prevent grass from growing up between
the stones they should be pointed with cement mortar made of one
part cement to three parts sand.

Catch basins. Unless there is a considerable area to be drained,
or unless the drains are not connected with a sewerage disposal system,
a catch basin is not always necessary. If the catch basin is constructed
of concrete the mixture should consist of one part cement, three parts

Fig. 40— Sections through two types of concrete gutter suitable for use in connection
with ordinary driveways (A), or with especially wide ones, or roads in which a distinct
curbing is necessary (B). The latter type is also preferable for roads or drives on a slope

40

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Fig. 41.— Cross section of an efficient con-
crete catch basin with removable grated
cover to permit cleaning it out. Note the
iron shield or fender to keep debris out?of
the drain leading to the sewer

Fig. 42.— Section of a simpler type of catch

basin suitable for wide drives and roads where

there is less chance of extensive flooding and

much debris

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— WALLS

41

sand and three parts crushed stone or gravel. The overflow opening
should be located twelve to eighteen inches above the bottom of the
basin so as to provide below it a space in which debris may collect.
This opening should be protected as shown in Fig, 41. If made of
brick, the walls should be about eight inches thick and the brick
should be laid in a strong cement mixture. The brick floor, however,
should be laid dry to permit seepage. On steep grades catch basins
should be installed at intervals of fifty feet, to prevent surface wash-
ing; on more gentle slopes 150 feet apart is sufl&cient.

Walls and Wall Building

WALLS may be divided into several classes according to mate-
rials used. As a rule they are made of brick, concrete,
stone or wood. Brick walls are used extensively through the South
as they are not affected by frost. Many retaining and fancy walls
are made of brick. Concrete has come into vogue of late and is used
considerably for rough walls and retaining walls. Stone is probably
used for general wall building as much as any other material, as its
utilization can be developed in many ways.

TERMS USED IN WALL MAKING

Walls proper are divided into two parts — a suhwall and a super-wall.
If a wall has two faces the portion in the center is called the filling.
Stretchers are the material of the principal surface of the wall laid
lengthwise of the wall. A header is a piece that goes crosswise to rein-
force the wall (Fig. 43). Quoins (Fig. 46) are pieces at the corner for
binding. A voussoir is a keystone or wedgestone in the center of

COP17SG

£>AJ-0-STRADr

m

Fig. 43.— Front view of part of a brick retaining wall to illustrate the various parts

42

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Fig. 44.— Three types of wall, the names suggesting their purposes

an arch. Pointing is laying the wall up dry first and then filling the
spaces between the stones from the outside with mortar. A 1 to 2
mixture is usually used in pointing and the result is called a. flush joint.
Back pointing is keeping the mortar well back in the joints; this effect
is also called a raked joint.

BRICK WORK

Brick for wall building is usually divided into two classes — sand
brick and water struck brick. The latter results when the mold is
wet and the material is pressed in and burned. The best grade is
body brick; second grade brick is the common hard or bench brick,
and brings about half the price of the body brick. Sand brick costs
about the same as common hard. In measuring, five bricks are piled

and measured. A carload
numbers 10,000 to 15,000.
Character may be given a
brick wall by paneling and
recessing.

Bonding. When all bricks
run horizontally the result is
called a stretcher bond. Eng-
lish bond is made of alternate

rows of headers and stretch-
Fig. 45. -Diagram of a corner of a brick wall ^'^- ^'^- ,'*^, s^«^^'^ ^ si^-
to show (in dotted lines) a quoin binder COUrse English bond.

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— WALLS

A

•3R01iO"VASHiXR:

CDOD

De^=:'Ci:)

□

If

D

TLt

J^^T^I DOTW :ASMJ-3:"R

LZD^l

yl

II II in

LZDU

c

C o u R.sr. ashlhr.

Fig. 46.— Three types of ashler wall construction

One square yard of standard brick on edge requires sixty-one
brick. Brick work is estimated by the 1000 brick. An eight-inch
wall requires fifteen standard brick to the square foot; a twelve-inch
wall requires twenty-two and one-half standard brick to the square
foot; a sixteen-inch wall requires thirty standard brick to the square
foot. Six to six and one-half pressed brick are required per square
foot of work. To lay 1000 common brick kilncourt requires two and
one-half bushels or 200 pounds of hme, five-eighths yard of sand, and
one barrel of cement. In figuring the number of brick for piers, take
the height by the distance around in feet and consider the product as

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

fill ^ ^i£Ui\ir\6 \w3ll •

Fig. 47. — Section through a retaining wall and the soil it holds in place, to illustrate
especially the "weak holes" provided at intervals to take care of the drainage

the superficial area of a wall whose thickness is equal to the width of the
pier. All above figures include mortar. The average brick work requires
about one-tenth yard of mortar per cubic yard of finished masonry.

STONE WALLS

Stone walls are usually divided into two classes — rubble and ashler
walls.

A rubble wall is any wall made of stone in its natural state, laid
as a random or course wall. Ashler walls are made of stone cut to
rectangular lines.

A random ashler has no particular horizontal course, as shown in
Fig. 46B. Broken ashler is shown in Fig. 46 A and a course ashler in
Fig. 46C. The best stone work has mortar one-eighth inch to one-quar-
ter inch thick. When the face of the stone is left rough the wall is
known as quarry-faced ashler; if the stone is dressed a little it is pitch-
face ashler. In a field stone wall the stones should be of about the
same size and all of about the same color. The weathered surface
should show on the wall and the stone be laid with their long di-
ameters horizontal. The largest stones should be used at the base of
the wall. If the back of the wall is vertical the stone should be rough
and headers that run through the wall should be used.

Foundations for stone walls are laid according to the same prin-
ciples as govern those for brick or concrete walls. Ashler work requires
one- tenth yard of mortar per cubic yard of finished masonry; rubble
work requires three-tenths to four-tenths yards of mortar per cubic
yard of finished masonry.

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— WALLS 45

RETAINING WALLS

Oftentimes walls are difficult to design as it is sometimes hard to
estimate the strength required. WaUs need not be as large in land-
scape work as in engineering work. If a wall is to be used about a
garden or near the house it should have a coping, made a little wider
than the wall to keep out rain, etc. If balustrades are to be used, a
stringer course (Fig. 43) is first placed on the wall, then by means of
SLX-inch dowels the balustrade is held in place.

A wall should, if possible, be one soHd whole and not be made up
of parts. Retaining walls must have a good foundation, never less
than three feet, and for strong walls four feet, deep. Never build a
wall on filled ground unless it has had at least a year to settle and
pack. It is best to go down to the original surface if possible. A foun-
dation for a wall on a hillside should be built in steps (Fig. 49) ; and
see that it is well drained. The width of walls should be one-third
to one-half of the total height (Fig. 49). If made of cut stone masonry
the width of the base is one- third of the height retained; one-fourth
should be satisfactory for brick and ordinary masonry. The thickness
should be greater in a surcharged wall (Fig. 44), say five- tenths to six-
tenths of the height retained for stone masonry, and six-tenths to
seven-tenths for concrete. A long, heavy retaining wall may have
buttresses placed about fifteen feet apart to prevent its breaking. The
work should be well bonded by the use of mixture of one part of cement
to one and one-half of sand. Provide weak holes or openings through
the bottom part of the wall for drainage. If plenty of stones are handy
they may be used at the bottom of the fill to take care of the drainage.
Weak holes are placed about twelve to fifteen feet apart (Fig. 47).

STEPS IN DESIGNING A RETAINING WALL (Fig. 49)

1. Decide on height to be retained. 2. Decide on batter to be
used (not over one and a half inches to one foot). 3. Decide on

Fig. 48. — A dry wall can sometimes be used as a retaining wall where the cut is not too deep
and the amount of soil to be held not too great. This sectional diagram suggests such a use

46

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Fig. 49.— Cross section
of design for a well-
built retaining wall of
stone or concrete. Note
proportions and also
the step construction
on the up-hill or "fill"
side. Figures in circles
refer to directions on
pages 45 and 47

CONSTRUCTION DETAILS— WALLS

47

TTdte-d

depth of foundation. 4. Decide
on proportion of width to
height (three-tenths to five-
tenths). 5. Establish a verti-
cal line for the back of wall.
6. Decide on width of top of
wall. 7. Draw a diagonal line
from this point through half-
way point in rear line. 8. Erect
a perpendicular from lower end
of diagonal line. 9. Extend top
of wall horizontally to meet
this perpendicular. 10. Divide
this horizontal line into some
even number of spaces (nine
to twelve inches each).
11. Divide the perpendicular
into the same number of parts
plus one. 12. Adopt a regular
step form for the rear of the
wall using the vertical line pass-
ing through the one half-way
point previously estabUshed.
13. The upper step goes in
diagonally. 14. Extend the foundation six inches to nine inches
beyond the wall at front and rear. 15. Design parapet.

Pry \Vall

Fig. 50.— Sectional view of a dry wall showing

location of perforated pipe to provide irriga-

gation

DRY WALLS

For retaining purposes the dry wall is not very practical. In the
first place it is not substantial enough to hold any appreciable amount
of fill. It is, however, sometimes used as a facer wall where the mate-
rial back of it is cut away and not filled in, in which case this type of
waU in the garden is very desirable and can be made very interesting.
For the location and construction of such a wall see Fig. 48.

It is often necessary to provide a subirrigation system for the rock
wall when Alpine plants are used in the prepared pockets. This may
be accomplished by running a two-inch agriculture tile along the top
of the slope about a foot below the surface; for best results it should
be embedded in crushed stone or cinders. Let the tile come up to the
surface some place where it can conveniently be filled with water —

48 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

from a hose connection if possible. Another method that may be
employed is that of running a perforated iron pipe along the top of
the wall in practically the same way as the tile, except that it is best
to connect it with a regular water supply and use a valve. For details
as to the method of construction see under heading of Rock Gardens
(page 104).

O O O C o

Single 1i)v Privet PJarxted a" AparJ:

-^'

Doable Row Priv<aii- Plaricda'-izApari.

•^C^-iz'-O €)

Fig. 51

Bsri^z-rr^Hcd gp.

Some planting distances for different kinds of
hedges

PLANT MATERIALS AND THEIR USE

The Objects of Planting

iHE main principles or objects of general planting can be enu-
merated as follows:

1. To make a picture. We can usually divide a picture into fore-,
middle-, and backgrounds, one of which should contain the chief point
of interest. Anything to be developed in detail should come in the
foreground. The design is of interest either from the structural de-
sign or the applied design standpoint. Planting is placed as a frame-
work for the picture. Buildings should be framed from at least one
good viewpoint.

2. To define areas. By means of planting about the sides of the
property.

3. To make a background, if possible, for any object of interest. This
is especially true of fore- and middle-ground pictures. Small, simple,
straight-Hned buildings need a background more than large, irregular-
shaped buildings.

4. To efect a tracery {a partial screen) of foliage in front of the
object of interest. It serves to break up harsh lines

5. To screen. May be dense to exclude an objectionable object.
Plants and vines are used for covering over uninteresting objects, as
poles, fences, etc.

6. To provide shade.

7. To divide the grounds into various areas, such as service, private,
public, etc.

8. To bring out an accent in the picture. Lombardy Poplars are
often used for this.

9. To give strength and character to the picture.

10. To give balance to the picture and keep it in equilibrium by
means of masses. Masses do not need to be of the same size. Many
of Corot's pictures may be studied as good examples.

11. To apply a practical reason for departing from a logical plan.

12. To unite harsh lines — as by means of plants about the base of the
house, etc. This makes a gradual transition from ground level to
vertical walls.

50 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

13. As a barrier — use hedges.

14 As a protection — use windbreaks.

15. To prevent washing or erosion on steep bank.

16. To cover bare earth.

17. As a simple, applied ornament — in the case of bedding plants,
specimen plants, etc.

Distances for Planting
ornamental materials

Trees on wide streets, 40 feet to 50 feet apart.

Trees on average streets, 30 feet to 40 feet apart.

Large shrubs (Lilac, White Fringe, etc.), 4 feet to 6 feet apart.

Medium shrubs (Bridal Wreath, Deutzias), 3 feet to 4 feet apart.

Small shrubs (St. John's Wort, Dwarf Deutzias), IM feet to 2 feet
apart.

Vines on wall or fence (Boston Ivy), 5 feet to 8 feet apart.

Vines trailing on ground (Honeysuckle), 2 feet to 4 feet apart.

Ground covers (Japanese Spurge), 6 inches to 12 inches apart.

Large herbaceous plants (Michaelmas Daisy), 18 inches to 24
inches apart.

Medium herbaceous plants (Columbine, Iris), 12 inches to 15
inches apart.

Small herbaceous plants (Candytuft, Garden Pink), 6 inches to
9 inches apart.

Hybrid Perpetual (June) Roses, 2 feet to 23^ feet apart.

Hybrid Tea and Tea (Monthly) Roses, IH feet to 2 feet apart.

FRUIT TREES AND BUSHES

Standard Apples, 35 feet apart each way.

Standard Pears and strong-growing Cherries, 25 feet apart each
way.

Duke and Morello Cherries, 20 feet apart each way.

Standard Plums, Peaches, Apricots, Nectarines, 16 to 18 feet apart
each way.

Dwarf Apples, Dwarf Pears and Quinces, 10 to 12 feet apart each
way.

PLANT MATERIALS

Grapes, rows 10 to 12 feet apart; plants 10 feet apart in rows.
Currants and Gooseberries, 4 feet apart.
Raspberries and Blackberries, 2 to 3 feet by 5 to 7 feet apart.
Strawberries (for field culture), 1 by 3 feet to 3H feet apart.
Strawberries (for garden culture), 1 to 2 feet apart.

NUMBER OF TREES OR PLANTS THAT CAN BE

PLANTED ON AN ACRE

35 feet apart each way 35

25 feet apart each way 70

20 feet apart each way 110

18 feet apart each way 135

15 feet apart each way 205

12 feet apart each way 300

10 feet apart each way 435

8 feet apart each way 680

6 feet apart each way 1210

5 feet apart each way 1745

4 feet apart each way 2725

3 feet apart each way 4840

Rule for finding above data: Multiply the distance in feet be-
tween the rows by the distance the plants are apart in the rows. The
product will be the number of square feet for each plant or hill. This,
divided into the number of square feet in an acre (43,560), will give
the number of plants or trees to the acre.

Fig. 52.— How a hillside can be planted to produce an illusion of grade

52

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE
The Planting Plan

EVEN before the grading plan is drawn, the designer must have
some idea of the whole planting scheme so he may, as suggested, in-
dicate on a general plan the approximate size and shape of the re-
spective planting areas showing their correlation in unifying the whole.

eA-R.AGE

PciYATr,

Fig. 53.— "The home grounds should be divided into three main portions," as illus-
trated here. The proportions of the different parts will vary according to the desires
of those who occupy the property

THE PLANTING PLAN 53

The main purpose of the planting plan, however, is to portray as
vividly as possible the preconceived idea. It should indicate not only
the exact size of the planting areas, but also designate the number of
plants to be used and their location, correct spacing and arrangement.
Therefore, in order to execute a practical planting plan, the designer
must know the principles of landscape design and have a thorough
knowledge of the different plant materials to be used — their height
and size at maturity, their season and period of flowering, their natural
habitat, the kind of soil they prefer, the location they succeed in, their
hardiness, their appearance and their general adaptabiUty to the
purpose for which used. It is to assist the planter and designer in
this task that this book has been written; the various illustrations
and sketches will serve to exempUfy the procedure and the finished
plan.

Where there is a flower garden it is best to show on the general plant-
ing plan merely the outlines, and have a larger scale drawing from
which to work. In fact, all features requiring exact detail work in
their execution should be rendered in this way.

Every planting, from that of the small city lot to that of an ex-
tensive acreage should be first studied and worked out on paper.
It is easier to erase than transplant.

THE MAIN DIVISIONS OF THE GROUNDS

The grounds should be divided into three main portions (Fig. 53)
as follows:

The Public Area consisting of front lawn, entrances and walks
in one composition.

The Private Area consisting of private lawn, gardens and special
features, and usually adjoining the living side of the house.

The Service Area consisting of drying yard, vegetable garden,
drives and turn-around, all confined if possible to the kitchen side of
the house.

Sometimes another section — the semi-public — is included. This
offers a glimpse of the private area and is treated so as to modulate
the transition from the private to the public or service area.

The prevaihng ideas in treating these areas should be, respectively,
that the public section should suggest repose and inviting reception;
the private section should give the impression of quiet privacy and
lasting pleasure; and the service section should give the impression of

54

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Gro(jpir\6 y trcGs dL back w'* Koux
ipfariMSTw a. back^rourxd

A

£.

I-\OC\3(Z

Fig. 54. —Two important uses of trees in connection with
the dwelling

inconspicuous seclusion. The first consideration in designing the
grounds is the selection of the style to be followed. This should be
determined largely by the surroundings and the architecture of the
house. In Gothic architecture vertical lines predominate, while the
Grecian style is characterized by horizontal lines. Also we have the
informal "English house" and the Colonial. The most pleasing com-

THE PLANTING PLAN

55

bination of buildings and planting materials is obtained by planting
for contrast. Thus, conical or upright growing trees look well against
the Grecian style of building, and for use with a Gothic style
structure trees of a broad, round character and more or less flat
growth are most effective.

Thought should also be given to the period of the particular
architecture and the way in which the kind of plant material used
harmonizes with that time. For instance, the Colonial house natur-
ally suggests plants and flowers that were brought over by the early
settlers, such as Boxwood, Ehns, Phlox, Hollyhocks, etc.

THE USE OF TREES

The next step in developing the design is to place the trees which
constitute its framework.

Trees are planted primarily either for shade, protection, as a
background (Fig. 54A) or to "frame the picture" (Fig. 54B). In
keeping with the general design, however, the specimen lawn trees
should be planted at the salient or outstanding points in the borders,
rather than in bays.

Background — When planting for a background, tall growing
trees that produce dark shadows should be selected and set in clumps
rather close together, the distance back from the house depending upon

Fig. 55.— In planting trees on a lawn where ample room is provided, it is best to place

them in such positions that they will frame the house as seen from some prominent point.

such as the front entrance

56

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

>---]

Fig. 56. —Plan of the corner planting shown in perspective in Fig.

57. Note the^use of tall evergreens and hardwood

trees as accent points

the surroundings. If these are quite open and level,
the trees are more effective located near the house;
in the case of ground rising in the rear, they may
be planted ahnost at the back of the lot, or at a
sufficient height so that in the Hne of vision roof
lines are effectively softened or broken by the mass
of fohage and branches.

Shade — In planting for shade, the location of the trees will depend
upon the section of the country. In the northeastern states, the heat
of the sun is greatest when it is in the southwest, so the trees should
be planted on the southwest side of the house.

Framing or Foreground Use — When planting trees about the
house, it is advisable to so place them that the house is "framed" by
them when seen from the most prominent viewpoint — generally the
front axis (Fig. 55). To produce this effect the trees should be planted
at each end of the house, in the foreground, so that the house "looks
out" from between, giving the impression that it, rather than the trees
has been placed. On a small property one tree on each side will give
this effect, but a more natural setting is produced by grouping several
trees (Figs. 54 and 65). This same idea can be carried out in develop-
ing a vista by placing the trees so as to "frame" the view.

Protection, Windbreaks — On larger places, especially if exposed,
a belt of trees planted on the windward side will materially increase
the comfort of the place as well as permit a wider scope of selection
in plant material. When planning such a windbreak, care should be
taken not to break or interrupt good views with tall growing trees.
On the other hand, a poor view can be "planted out" or hidden, and
even an indifferent picture can be greatly improved by the thoughtful
placing of trees.

THE PLANTING PLAN

EFFECTIVE SHRUBBERY PLANTING

Undoubtedly the most important point to remember when plan-
ning the shrubbery areas, is to keep an open lawn. This means placing
a positive taboo on variously-shaped beds dotted here and there or in
the center, except in carrying out the formal or the architectural style.

The corners of the property demand greater height than is required
along the lines; therefore ample depth must be allowed for planting
tall growing shrubs at the back and the dwarfer kinds in front. This
obviates an abrupt transition from fohage to ground line (Figs. 56
and 57).

The corner plantings may be extended along the sides, so as to
make a continuous "border planting," which creates a sense of privacy
and seclusion. These borders, in the formal design, should not be
straight, but so arranged as to form a series of small bays and promon-
tories. Not only is this result more natural and artistic, but by it the
extent of the lawn is apparently increased. Furthermore, in order
to avoid a monotonous sky Kne a few small trees should be planted
here and there along the border (Fig. 58).

At the point where the private area is begun, the border can be
made to jut out considerably onto the lawn, to form a division between
the public and private areas. The service portion of the grounds (near
the kitchen) can also be effectively separated from the private area
in the same manner. See Frontispiece and Fig. 20.

Fig. 57.-An attractively planted corner in which tall-, medium-, and low-growing' materials

are correctly used to produce harmony and variety without abrupt transition. See Fig.

56 for the plan of this arrangement

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

/IFOLMiL J30LDtIL

for ImTneclisLe Efieci. Sr^^
JjCS ^yciccession. o/" £)Ioom- ^

Fig. 58.— Plan of an informal border illustrating the use
of a variety of shrubs and an occasional small tree for
accent in the sky line.

(A) 6 Canadian Hemlock.
4 Red Pine.

(1) 3 White Birch.

(2) 5 Flowering Dogwood.

(3) 10 Canadian Redbud.

(4) 5 English Hawthorn.

(5) 3 Sorrel Tree (Oxydendron).

(6) 3 White Fringe.

(7) 1 Mountain Ash.

(8) 20 Dwarf graceful Deutzia.

(9) 12 Hydrangea, "Hills of

Snow."

(10) 15 Large-flowered Mock-

orange.

(11) 15 Rose of Sharon (3 vars.)

(12) 10 Pride of Rochester Deutzia

(13) 15 Bridal Wreath, Van Hout-

te's Spirsea.

(14) 20 Waterer's Summer Spirsea

(15) 10 Japanese Snowball.

(16) 5 Cornelian Cherry.

(17) 10 Golden Bells.

(18) 5 African Tamarix.

(19) 5 Siebold's Viburnum.

(20) 10 Desbois's Weigela.

(21) 10 Eva Rathke Weigela.

(22) 10 Sweet Pepper Bush.

(23) 10 Butterfly Bush or Summer

Lilac.

(24) 10 Yellow Globe Flower

(Kerria).

^^

(25) 5 Lindley's Plume Spiraea.

(26) 10 Japanese Storai.

(27) 3 Smoke Tree or Purple

Fringe.

(28) 4 Lilac La Tour D'Avergne.

(29) 7 Purple Beauty Fruit.

(30) 7 Single Hydrangea.

(31) 15 Blue Spirsa.

(32) 6 Dwarf Bush Buckeye.

(33) 10 Bushy St. John's Wort.

THE PLANTING PLAN 59

If a flower garden is desired, it should be enclosed as a separate
unit, either by a hedge or shrubbery. Where space does not permit a
flower garden, the shrubbery borders might be brightened by planting
old-fashioned flowers in masses here and there along them toward the
front. To add interest to a lawn, a birdbath in a shady nook, or a
sundial in the open might be included — but when a home (which in-
cludes the grounds) receives the interested touch of the owner, many
ideas will occur that will make the whole design quite individual.

In some cases the property is so narrow that it is not feasible to
devote space to shrubbery borders; in this case a fairly tall hedge
along the line will give the desired privacy without loss of space. Such
a property should, as a general rule, be treated in a more formal man-
ner, Uiat is, by using chiefly straight lines in both planting and walks,
and following the architectural style throughout the planting schemes.

THE FOUNDATION PLANTING

By this term is meant the planting close to the house, the object
of which, as the name suggests, is to conceal or soften the foundation.

This is the commonest phase of planting, and it is greatly overdone.
Instances are common where the house is practically hidden behind a
wall of shrubs or evergreens that have grown so large as to shut out
light and air, and which instead of beautifying the property have
really become a detriment.

A good rule to follow in foundation plantings is this: The lower
the floor level, the less base planting is necessary. Only where the
house is set on a fairly high foundation should the planting be con-
tinuous across the front, and even then no tall growing plants should
be used under or near the windows. The most effective treatment
is to extend and widen the planting at the corners, leaving only a thin
line, if any, along the face of the building (Fig. 59).

Where the floor level is practically on the same line as the grade,
all that is generally necessary is to accentuate the entrance by planting
a specimen at each side, and to place a few at each corner to soften the
sharp angle where walls and ground meet. Often some clinging vines
will answer the purpose and, speaking of vines, the right kinds make
excellent covers for the open porch. It is economical to use copper
wire on which to train them.

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

THE PLANTING PLAN

As has been gathered from
the foregoing, the selection of
plant material for base planting
must be made with great dis-
crimination. The wide choice
of plant material that can be
used for this purpose offers
good opportunities for creating
effects of character and indi-
viduaUty.

If the preference is for Win-
ter or all-year effects, evergreens
can be used. A planting of
flowering shrubbery is particu-
larly pleasing during the grow-
ing season, but has little to
commend it during Winter.
Therefore a combination of the
two types with numerous vari-
ations can be used to secure
almost any effect desired.

GROUPINGS

Walks and drives are a prac-
tical necessity, but unfortu-
nately they are sometimes so ar-
ranged as to interrupt an other-
wise quiet view. To overcome
this objection, trees or shrubs

can be so disposed along the walk that it is more or less concealed
and the view kept intact and, possibly, improved. It is not necessary
to plant a continuous border along a lengthy walk or drive; in fact,
this would tend to emphasize it rather than detract attention from it.

The planting along the path or drive should have an object, and
if the specimens are grouped by the junctions and turns, they will give

Fig. 60 — Well planned grouping of trees or
shrubs along a drive

Key to planting plan shown on opposite page.

(1) 2 specimen Vanhoutte's (5) 2 Double Pink Rose of

Bridal Wreath Spirsea. Sharon.

(2) Dwarf DeuUia. (6) 6 Shrubby St. John's

(3) 2 Bush Withe Rod. Wort.

(4) 2 Cork-bark Spindle Tree. (7) 2 Purple Lilac.

(8) 2 Hills-of-Snow Hydran.

(9)
(10)

2 Amerioan Arborvits.
2 Mountain Pine.

62

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Fig. 61. — Another well planned driveway in which not

only is the sweeping curve justified by the planting,

but also gaps in the latter provide attractive vistas at

several points

the impression that
the walk has been ar-
ranged to fit the plant-
ing (Figs. 60, 61 and
62). On the other
hand, a row of stately
trees along a straight
drive that is rather
conspicuous, will add
to its dignity. Such
avenues, however, are
found only on the
larger places.

Often such shrub-
bery groups serve to
enclose the formal gar-
den, or the recreation
area; but in all cases
these outstanding
groups must "fit in"
with the general design
and not appear de-
tached. (See Fig. 63 for
types of tree groups.)

The Principals of
Planting

WHILE planting operations are simple, it is of the atm.ost
importance that they be carried out promptly and properly.

All trees and shrubs, in fact, all vegetation, should be replanted
as soon as possible after being dug. If the future location is not
ready when the tree is received, the roots must be covered with soil
and kept moist. The most convenient method of accompUshing this
is to dig a trench a foot or more deep and lay the trees or plants in
it at an angle of about forty-five degrees so the roots are in the trench;
then cover all the roots leaving none exposed. (Fig. 66.) If a large
number are thus to be "heeled in," a second trench can be dug parallel
to the first, and the soil taken from it used to cover the roots of the
plants lying in the first trench, and so on, thus saving time and labor.

THE PRINCIPLES OF PLANTING

63

Proper PJcxTNLiiNd" Arra.r\C!eiT\eT\i

Fig. 62.— A good use of trees in conjunction with a branching walk. The rounded ob-
jects are hardwood trees or shrubs, and the pointed or star-shaped ones, evergreens

Even in such temporary planting the soil must be firmly tamped and
soaked. It is, however, most advisable to have all in readiness for the
tree or shrub that it may be planted immediately on arrival.

HOW TO PLANT A TREE

For any tree the hole should be about two feet (or more) deep and
wide enough to allow the roots to be spread out to their full length
with a foot to spare (Fig. 65). Furthermore, the hole should be made
as large at the bottom as at the top, and not taper down as it so often
does. In a heavy clay soil dig a little deeper than actually necessary
and provide drainage by placing stones in the bottom. Over these
(or on the bottom if no drainage is necessary) spread a layer of rough
upturned sods which can be covered with a layer of rotted manure
(Fig. 67). Then throw in sufficient good soil to bring the tree, when
stood up, to about the same level as when it was previously growing.
Set the tree in the hole and comb out all roots with the fingers, so that
they lay in a natural, horizontal position, and none are bent under

64

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

A

■1 I W^^^^^^.j u% >

1 Used for oLreeL, lawiv <ar\d to fraitsa
£Ke Koasa

2 Used ixidiva <icc<ZJ^t<~^^dK<^lg|kL Id ^Ljrouy
pJar\LijsdLj> "Iorcoi\i,ra.5iwiLk Sorizot\Lel lii<«&
Torn\e>l cffccLs Arvd Lsll scrcets plariir^

SUsednsos-Lly for baI&-T\cc<i formal affa.cJLg

^Used as 1bn><>i\ sp(aciTin.c2.rv wlatvLs

v5 Used ■for Icx'nX'in, sLreeL,c>r\cl wir\dbT(zaks

Fig. 63. — Types of trees and some of their important uses in planting the home grounds

or cramped. Then throw in the finest soil you have, preferably rather
dry, working it among the roots so that every one comes in contact
with soil and none are left "hung" in spaces. Tamp very firmly as
the soil is thrown in and fill the hole to within about three inches of
the surface. Fill the depression with water three or four times; this
wiU settle the soil so the tree will be about two inches lower than it
previously was, which will leave it about right. The following day the
hole can be loosely filled in with good soil, leaving a slight depression
around the tree trunk to catch the water (Figs. 65 and 67). Or, to
facilitate watering, a basin can be built up around the tree and allowed
to remain through the first Summer.

After the soil is given a final, thorough soaking, a three- or four-inch
layer of manure will keep it moist as well as add nourishment. A tree
having a stem over three inches in thickness should be guyed or staked
to withstand strong winds (Fig. 68). Three stout wires from the tree

THE PRINCIPLES OF PLANTING

65

to pegs driven firmly into the ground at the three points of a triangle
will serve the purpose. To prevent the wires from injuring the tree
they should pass through pieces of rubber hose wherever they touch it.

PLANTING WITH DYNAMITE

When a large number of trees are to be planted, or when the sub-
soil is very hard, the holes are sometimes blasted with dynamite (Fig.
69). If this is done, care must be taken that the hole made (which is
generally deeper than is necessary) is filled firmly up to the height at
which the tree is to be planted. If this is not done the soil will settle
much more than if the hole were dug by hand, and the tree will be left
too deep and will not thrive.

TRANSPLANTING WILD TREES

Before moving a tree from the woods, it is advisable to root-prune
it as directed under "Root-pruning" (page 70). This should be done
in early Spring; then, after the trench is filled with good soil, the tree
should be allowed to stand until the following Autumn or, better still,
the next Spring. It can then be moved with less root injury. If it is
taken out in Winter, it can be handled with a frozen ball of earth and

Fig. 64. Diagrammatic examples of tree grouping. (A) is decidedly poor, both because
it uses three specimens of the same size, shape and type in a symmetrical group, and
because this arrangement detracts from the real beauty of any one of them. (B) is better,
and (C) better still, both of these having variety in height, mass, sky line and perspective

66

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

THE PRINCIPLES OF PLANTING

67

j-lcd ir\ oaa^TNortK slope-
Fig. 66.— If conditions are not right for planting when
the stock arrives, heel it in at once, as shown here

gradually lifted out of
the hole as illustrated
in Fig. 71. In any
event the top must be
cut back more severely
than if it had been
growing in a nursery,
as a greater proportion
of roots will have been
lost.

PLANTING SHRUBS

Shrubs should be
given just as much care
as trees, but, of course,
the hole need not be so
large.

Generally speaking, shrubs are planted in masses, therefore the
whole planting areas or beds can and should be prepared previous to
planting. Dig down fifteen to eighteen inches, and if the soil is poor,
enrich it by mixing in good fertilizers such as well rotted manure,
lime if needed, etc. However, if convenient, the poor soil should be
entirely replaced with good topsoil, and this allowed to settle before
the planting is done.

Should the plants arrive in a frozen condition, thaw them gradually
in a cool, shaded place before planting. If you are not prepared to
plant, heel in the shrubs as aheady described for trees. Each shrub
should be covered separately — don't just heel in the bundles.

On banks it is best to plant the shrubs in separate holes, instead of
digging up the entire bank, which would break up the sod, loosen
the soil and cause washing.

Whatever pruning is necessary can be done much more easily before
the tree is planted than when it is set up, so the head as well as the
roots should be examined before planting, and any needed work done
while it is lying on the ground.

PLANTING HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS

The most important thing to remember in planting perennials is
to see that they are not too deep, nor, on the other hand, set on the

68

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

top of the soil and too
lightly covered. In the
former case the
"crown" or heart of
the plants wiU rot;
whereas, if the plant
is not set deep enough,
the roots will dry out.
The wide diversity
in root forms of peren-
nials makes it impos-
sible to stipulate any
specific depth for plant-
ing them, but it should
be an easy matter to
judge the proper depth
to plant on seeing the
subject.

All perennials that
start into growth and,
as a rule, flower in
early Spring (such as
the Peony), should be
planted in the Fall; for
those with a late bloom-
ing period and a dis-
tinct crown of leaves on
a more or less fleshy
root, such as Foxglove
or Poppy, Spring plant-
ing is best. With a few such exceptions perennials can be planted
either in Spring or in Fall after growth is finished. Fall-planted
Peonies are sometimes "blinded" by a too heavy Winter covering —
that is, they are prevented from blooming although they grow luxu-
riantly otherwise.

Fig. 67.

-A correctly planted tree in the sort of environ-
ment in which it should thrive

THE PRINCIPLES OF PRUNING

69

Pruning

THE reasons for pruning
may be grouped under
the following five headings:
1. To modify the vigor of
the plant; 2. To produce bet-
ter or more flowers or fruit;
3. To shape the plant to de-
sired size or form; 4. To re-
move imperfect or superfluous
wood or branches; 5. To fa-
cilitate cultivation.

We may outline the results
of various kinds or degrees of
pruning to show the principle
followed in deciding upon a
certain method: (1) Severe
pruning of the top tends to
increase the production of
wood, and so rejuvenate weak
or declining plants; (2) Severe
pruning of the roots tends to

lessen the production of wood and increases root fiber, and, indirectly,
fruitfulness.

The natural tendency of plants is to grow from the uppermost
buds. By heading in (cutting off the top) the lateral, dor-

mant buds lower down are H stimulated to develop.

Fig. 68.— Trees three inches in caliper and

over should be guyed with wires in three

directions. The wires should pass through

pieces of hose where they touch the tree

Fig. 69.— Dynamite can be used to simplify the digging of holes and to loosen a stiff sub-
soil and improve drainage conditions. In this sketch (A) is the cracked and loosened sub-
soil; (B) the broken subsoil dug out, enriched, if possible, with well rotted manure, and
replaced; (C) the topsoil firmed in around the roots; and (D) either top or subsoil loosely
filled in and kept loose

70

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Summer pinching of healthy
growths increases fruitfuhiess
(forms more fruit spurs) and
causes the wood to ripen early,
thus, in wet seasons especially,
minimizing the danger of the
wood being frozen because of its
soft, sappy condition.

The season in which the
pruning is done has considerable
influence on flowering or fruit-
ing quaHties, because Winter
pruning tends to produce wood
and Summer pruning does not.
Local and chmatic conditions
should always be considered;
they may necessitate variations
in any rule.

There are two distinct
phases of pruning, namely, root pruning and top pruning. While
the majority of trees and shrubs secured from a nursery have already
been root pruned, it will perhaps not be out of place to outline the
method followed.

Fig. 70.— Showing the correct depth for

planting an evergreen; the most important

thing however, is to see that it stands at just

about the same level it stood at before

ROOT PRUNING

The object in pruning the roots of a newly dug tree is twofold:
To produce more root fibers (feeding roots), and to expedite the healing
of broken and damaged roots. The cut should be cleanly made with
a sharp knife or shears, leaving a smooth surface. The cut is best made
from the under side upward so that the open surface is facing down.
Fruit trees, as a general rule, are root pruned more severely than
ornamental or shade trees. This is because the quantity of fruit is
increased by the production of more root fibers. To root prune an
estabHshed tree, dig a trench around it two to four feet deep, according
to the size of the tree, and at a distance from the stem of about half
the spread of the branches. All the roots that are uncovered should be
cleanly cut. Sometimes it will be found necessary to undermine the
tree in order to sever the tap roots which go straight down. The
trench should then be filled in with good soil and this firmly tamped.

THE PRINCIPLES OF PRUNING

/leikoa of
"^nxov j T\6 <^ Lar^<2> Tree
WiiKTro2e-Ds 5<^U

^7a

Rg. 71.— The moving of large trees in Winter with large balls of frozen earth is a relatively

modern method and decidedly popular. This shows the successive steps in getting such

a tree out of the ground after the ball has been burlapped to prevent injury to the root

system

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

TOP PRUNING

Before removing or cutting any branch of any tree or shrub the
object in view should be clearly understood. Fruit trees are pruned,
generally speaking, to increase their fruitful-
ness; in ornamental shade trees shapeliness is
desired; in shrubs the future outHne and
flowering quaUties must be borne in mind. It
is, therefore, absolutely necessary that the per-
son pruning should know the habits of the

plant, and

sKootsap- truding

branches
to "shape" the bush, as is often done,
with the result that all the flowering
wood is either shortened or cut away
entirely.

It is impossible to dig any plant
of any size without having it lose some
portion of the root system, and gener-
ally, it is the feeding rootlets that are
lost. Therefore, in order to equalize
the consumption of food and the
supply (or abihty to secure it) which
has been materially reduced by the
loss of the roots, the top must be re-
duced by pruning the branches. It
follows that the condition of the roots,
to a great extent, decides how severely
the branches must be cut back. It is
safe, and indeed, advisable, to prune
the top more severely than the roots
when planting a newly dug tree.

As previously stated, a well-balanced,^shapely top or head is de-
sired in a shade tree, and the tree must be trained and pruned with
that object in view. The main stem or "leader" must, therefore, be
quite distinct from all side branches. In the event of there being two
leaders, select the better and cut away the other as severely as the

Fig. 72.— Top pruning or "heading
back" to induce bushiness

THE PRINCIPLES OF PRUNING

<SsT<z -f ooTNC^ i7Ni-K<2^ Kiaescl coL
ociX. iJ\«2. poori^sLess sko^jcn above

'•""<U- H'v, „

Fig. 73.— Top pruning to produce an upright, symmetrical leader or main trunk

shape of the tree will permit — even removing it altogether if possible.
(Fig. 73). In many young trees the main stem shoots up very tall
and develops few side branches. In such a case the leader should be
shortened to induce a more bushy top, when a new leader will be
formed (Fig. 72). If the tree is on or near the sidewalk, all low branches
should be removed so as to leave at least seven or eight feet clearance
for pedestrians. On a young tree these low branches may simply be
shortened until the main stem is sufficiently strong and thick to permit
them to be cut off closely. If, however, the tree is on the lawn, the
lower branches may be allowed to remain, and only the weak or cross-
ing branches need be removed, as well as those that project beyond
the general outline of the tree. Sometimes trees become too dense or
crowded and need to be thinned out. Before cutting it is advisable
to mark those branches which can be removed without spoihng the
shape or leaving a hole in the head. Thinning in this way, that is, by

74

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

.'' 5 ""^^a*^— M>a 'i<2 ccit_ o-rv oT^<ie--r side-

V

in<2TN ccj'LTx<Z3ct_'tb-rr\aiTs,i3roT\V;.

'I

Fig. 74.

-How to cut off a large limb to prevent its splitting off and
jagged wound

leJung a long.

removing whole branches, is highly preferable to simply clipping or
shortening the ends, or cutting away the top.

When sawing off a large limb, first make a cut on the underside to
eliminate the possibiUty of tearing the bark when the limb falls.
Furthermore, the limb should first be cut off at some distance from
the stem, and afterward quite close to it (Fig. 74). All newly cut
surfaces should be painted thoroughly to keep out rain and the action
of frost. Any good lead paint will serve, but liquid asphalt or tree
varnish has been found most effective and durable.

PRUNING FLOWERING SHRUBS

Unless a formal shape (topiary work) is desired, shrubs should
never be clipped with hedge shears, or cut in any way that will tend
to form a flat top or sides. The majority of shrubs need but little
annual pruning, and this must be done at the right time and in the
right manner. It is often necessary, however, to rejuvenate shrubs,
and this can be accomplished by cutting away, right to the ground,
all the old branches and by shortening the weak wood (Fig. 75). This

THE PRINCIPLES OF PRUNING

75

will be effective in producing strong, young shoots that will bear
flowers and more healthy foliage.

When shrubs are growing too vigorously and need to be reduced
in size, the pruning should be done before the flower buds have formed.
For instance, all Spring flowering shrubs (Golden Bell, Bridal Wreath,
Japan Quince, etc.) should be pruned soon after they have finished
flowering, by simply removing old wood to keep the bush open and to
force the production of more flowering branches. Other shrubs, such
as the Hydrangea, which bloom late in Summer or Autumn, should
be cut back in early Spring, as they flower on the branches that are
produced that year (Fig. 76). Still another group, typified by the
Lilacs, need never be pruned beyond the point of the removal of
dead and very old, scraggly branches; it is safest to do this just
after the flowering period.

:i:: (u. :'i^fc:^v/--

:K(2S B

Fig. 75.— Where to prune flowering shrubs. The old wood (A) and" the injured branches

(B) need most and first attention. Then proceed to the necessary shaping of the

vigorous growth. As a rule, prune just after the plant has bloomed

76

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

PRUNING HEDGE
PLANTS

The initial pruning
of a newly planted
hedge, such as Privet,
should be done at the
time of planting if in
Spring. If, however,
the planting is done in
Autumn, it is better to
merely shorten the
growths so that they
will not be swayed by
the wind, and then
prune severely in
Spring. Strong grow-
ing plants similar to
the Privets should be
cut down to within
three or four inches of
the ground and then allowed to grow unmolested for a season. The
following Spring, they should again be shortened — to about one foot
this time, and of course, clipped to as narrow a width as desired.
During the second season, the growths can be shortened three or
four times, as in this way a hedge that is dense right down to the
ground is formed (Fig. 77). If a taller hedge is desired, the height
should be attained gradually rather than in one year. The base
should in all cases be broader or at least as broad as the top, other-
wise the hedge will become top-heavy and have a tendency to break
down under the additional weight of snow, etc.

Afcj^.

Fig. 76.— Generally speaking, the more vigorous the

pruning the more abundant the resulting blooms. Cut

back Fall-blooming sorts (Hydrangeas, for instance) in

early Spring

PRUNING EVERGREENS

When used in the composition of the general landscape picture,
evergreens need practically no pruning, with the exception, of course,
of the removal of dead and broken branches. There are, however,
many instances when it is desired that the growth be checked so that
the plant in question may be kept proportionate in size to its near
companions, as in a foundation planting. Sometimes a specimen
evergreen becomes thinly clothed and should be clipped or pruned to
induce a more vigorous growth of lateral branches and twigs. The

THE PRINCIPLES OF PRUNING

77

symmetrical shape of the evergreen is also maintained by such pruning.
This, which may be called the main or annual pruning, should be done
just when growth commences in Spring. While the work is often done
with hedge shears, it is best to shape the tree or bush in question with
a knife. By pruning in this way and occasionally pinching the long
growths, the tall growing kinds can be kept comparatively low; hence
we sometimes see them used in base and low plantings. The well-
known dwarf trees of Japan are stunted and contorted by persistent
pinching, by tying the shoots, and by constricting the roots. By
pruning off the leader of a young, thin evergreen, it can be made to
widen out into a well-shaped bush, and another leader can be formed
by selecting a well-placed, strong shoot and tying it to a stake.

PRUNING VINES

The general principles of pruning shrubs can be apphed to woody
vines — when they need pruning. This, however, is very seldom.
Take out the old wood and endeavor to promote the growth of healthy
young shoots upon which the fruits or flowers are produced.

*-■-*•

rri\/<2«L pl2i.T\L<z^ j.t\ doabU row.

H<2dc2jtz-.5K.oaJcl t)el.rirr\me<l5<2V<arc3l i,irrv2.sa_>^ar

Fig. 77— To make a hedge dense right down to the ground, prune it frequently during its
first few years of growth

78 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Winter Protection

TREES and shrubs used to any great extent in landscape planting
are hardy, and need little or no protection. Notwithstanding
this, it is a good practice to spread a layer of manure over the bed
after the soil is frozen, especially the first Winter after transplanting
or until the planting is established. All tender and half-hardy shrubs
can be effectively protected by burying them according to the method
described for tree Roses (page 90). Small shrubs can be covered
with baskets, barrels, and boxes as is suggested for Rose bushes.

Roses. The protection of Roses is taken up under "Rose Gar-
dens" (page 90). Pine or evergreen branches can also be placed among
the bushes.

Evergreens. The greatest danger that evergreens need protec-
tion from is the Winter and Spring sun. The low temperatures freeze
the sap in the foliage; then when the sun strikes the leaves, the sap
thaws out rapidly, breaking down the cell walls. The bad "scalding"
that results turns them quite brown. The object, then, is to provide
shade in the right place. This can be effected by sticking native Pine
branches into the ground on the south and east sides of the evergreens.

Another method is to "box" the evergreens with cheesecloth, or
to build a tent-like arrangement around them after covering the whole
with straw. They can also be loosely wrapped in burlap, but this is
not so good a method as it is liable to crowd the branches. A good
mulch of manure on the soil will protect the surface roots. Dwarf
plants can be simply covered with Pine boughs.

Bulbs. A good layer of manure is all that is necessary for ordi-
nary Spring-fiowering bulbs. The danger involved in wintering half
hardy or tender bulbs is less that of their freezing than that of their
decaying. The latter result is caused by standing water which can
be prevented by mounding the soil above the bulbs so that the water
is quickly shed.

Herbaceous perennials. No one general method can be applied
to all perennials, but the majority can be covered merely with light,
long manure or hay (preferably salt hay) which must not be apphed
until after the ground is frozen. If the manure is used, a good plan is
to stick pegs into the border a foot or so apart, near the plants, to keep
it from resting directly on them. In the Spring dig the finer parts of
the manure under.

WINTER PROTECTION

79

Some perennials have a fleshy root system (as Alkanite, Hollyhock,
Foxglove, Poppy, etc.)? and these are likely to decay as a result of
standing in water. Therefore, as in the case of tender bulbs, mound
the soil above them; then after it has frozen, the manure or hay can be
spread.

Another class of plants which retain their leaves throughout
Winter — both shrubs and perennials — should be well covered
with dry leaves, which can be kept in place by boards laid right over
them. So placed, the boards will prevent water from soaking directly
through the leaves to the plants, and possibly heating and decaying
them. No moist or fresh manure should come in direct contact with
any perennials.

Vines can be covered with burlap as suggested for climbing Roses .
If not hardy, take them down and bury them, mulching afterward.
However, very few vines need much attention.

riller Plar^ls

pla-Kts pla-r<L£.

■J^^tioV Color .ir\iKe

Fig. 78.— On the basis of color, plant materials should
be used in a border in about these proportions: Filler
material, 4 parts; interest material, 2 parts; accent mate-
rial, I part. (See page 83)

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

C

p/ >^ TfLP^HAce-

Fig. 79.— Correctly used, different shades of foliage color as viewed from a terrace
can give the garden apparently increased dimensions. In this plan, RG is reddish-
green; YG is yellow-green, and BG is bluish-green

GARDEN DESIGN AND GARDEN MAKING

COLOR IN THE GARDEN

COLOR is made up of three parts or elements: The value of a
color is its degree of lightness or darkness; two colors may
be blue, but one a light blue and the other a dark blue.
Hue is the individual pigment that gives a color its name, such as red,
blue, etc. Intensity is the brilliancy of a color, as a bright or shiny
blue is distinguished from a dull blue. Brilliant colors when used
in the garden give us accent; they are readily distinguished and seem
set apart from other colors. Should one have a border planting of peren-
nials composed of a number of brilliantly colored plants, it would be
difficult to secure any accent, as all would clamor for attention.

Colors are divided into two main classes: the primaries — red,
yellow and blue ; and the secondaries — green, orange and purple. When
one color is said to be a complement of another it means that the two
have nothing in common, as in the case of orange and blue — there is
no trace of one color found in the other. Such colors are also called
contrast colors. Complementary colors mixed in equal quantities pro-
duce gray, or the neutral color, but they may be effectively used to-
gether in unequal quantities so as to allow one color to predominate,
as by planting a few White Birches against a heavy background of
evergreens.

Almost every color may be found in plant material in some form
or other, but usually in leaf, blossom, fruit or stem. Plants vary in
color value as the distance increases, for at a distance they appear to
take on a bluish cast. This fact may be taken advantage of in creating
apparently increased dimensions by the use of bluish foliage, such as
that of the Bush Honeysuckles, Spiraea Vanhouttei, etc.

If a garden is usually seen from a certain definite viewpoint such
as a window or terrace, it is well to arrange the colors so as to ap-
parently increase the distance (Fig. 79).

Where no attempt has been made to choose harmonizing colors,
there usually exists a series of color exclamations, each fighting for
supremacy, whereas the body of the garden or the beds should consist
of unifying shades with a few contrasting colors for accent; this will
emphasize and enliven the whole effect.

81

82

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

1 — 1 1 — 1

'

1

1

:

Fig. 80.— 5oine geometrical bases found in or back of the designs of most formal gardens

COLOR IN THE GARDEN 83

Primary colors may be used together if only small amounts are
employed. It is not a good idea to have several shades of the same hue
together, as in a bed of variously colored Geraniums where all clamor
for supremacy. This is the same result as a discord in music. Plants
should be separated into two factors, those possessing a dominant
note, and those of a modifying note, the latter giving a suggestion of
some other color, but still holding to the color scheme. Accent plants
should appear not among the filler plants, but either in the background
or in the facer row. Plant material in a border should be used in about
the following proportions: Filler material, four parts; interest material,
two parts; accent material, one part (Fig. 78). Keep pink and orange
away from mottled fohage. Use white in good-sized areas — not in
Httle patches.

METHODS OF USING COLORS IN A GARDEN

(1) To show a single color throughout the season. (2) To show
one single color in a color scheme extending throughout the season.
(3) To provide combinations changing throughout the season. (4) To
create a gradual trend of color from end to end.

Distance tends to soften colors. Contrasting colors give emphasis
to each other. Opposite colors give good contrast. Intermediate
colors tend to produce a discord. White is a peacemaker — it can
be used with any color. Bright colors can be used in exposed places;
dark colors should be used in shaded places. Blue and purple will
not reflect in a pool; use straw colors. Blue, next to magenta, is
most diflScult to use.

The Formal Garden

rules and suggestions for its design
(See Figs. 80, 81 and 82)

1. Formal gardening should be attempted only on relatively small
areas. For the ordinary family garden one-quarter to one-half acre
would be the maximum allowance; for a very pretentious private
mansion, one to two acres; for large public grounds, three to five acres.
Best results are usually secured on areas considerably smaller than
these maxima.

2. The area should be rectangular or nearly so. Circular or semi-
circular areas can sometimes be designed, but they are difl&cult.

84

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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-A suggested planting plan for a small, square formal garden

3. The area should be level or nearly so. Where it slopes distinctly
it should be brought to two or more levels by terracing.

4. The formal garden should be wholly and distinctly enclosed by
buildings, walls, hedges, or shrub borders. Occasional outlooks may
be provided through or over these bounds, but they must be managed
with great skill.

5. In the rectangular space no definite proportion between length
and breadth is obligatory, but best results can usually be secured with
a ratio of about seven or eight to five.

6. Each garden must have as its chief structural feature a major
axis. This will nearly always be developed on the median longitudinal

THE FORMAL GARDEN 85

line. In exceptional cases the main axis may be developed trans-
versely to the greatest length of the garden.

7. At right angles to this major axis a minor axis might be de-
veloped. In some cases two or three minor axes are permissible. In
rare cases also the minor axis may be merely indicated or entirely
suppressed.

8. The minor axis or axes must be distinctly subordinate to the
major axis in all particulars — in width, in length (usually), in interest
and in termini (see 10, 11 and 12). In the case of a garden having
several minor axes their combined length should be less than the
length of the major axis.

9. Major and minor axes will often be treated as paths which
should be nicely proportioned to the size of the gardens. The width
of the path in the major axis should be about ten per cent of the
width of the garden; that of the minor axis should be less.

10. Each axis must be provided with suitable termini, and these
termini must appear definitively at the ends of the axes.

11. These termini must be objects of definite interest and beauty.
Those most commonly employed are: Fountains, sundials, seats,
arbors, pergolas (of doubtful suitability), statues, tea houses, and small
buildings generally. A broad outlook over several miles of beautiful
scenery does not terminate any axis; and it is never permissible to
allow any axis to disappear into any exterior view.

12. These terminal features must be carefully proportioned in size
and interest to the length and importance of the axes on which they
are placed. Roughly speaking the height of the terminal features
may be ten per cent of the total length of the axis. Features on the
major axis must be distinctly larger and more interesting than those
on the minor axis. In case several minor axes are developed, their
termini must be plain and inconspicuous; nevertheless definite terminal
features must be provided.

13. Fountains, arbors, belvideres, etc., must not be built within the
garden so as to obstruct the general view. Under no circumstances
should anything be built upon any axis intermediate between the
termini in such a manner as to interrupt the axis line. The intersec-
tions of axes may often be marked by pools of flat water (not playing
fountains). Pools in this position are attractive on account of the
reflections they offer toward the principal points of view.

86

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

4\ FORAVO. . 6 ADTOM d^

Fig. 82.— A design for a somewhat more elaborate formal garden.

This well illustrates the axis construction and also the use of a

terminal feature— the bird bath in this case

Key to Planting Plan

Key

( 1) Delphinium belladonna

( 2) Phlox Miss Lingard

( 3) Nepeta Mussinii

( 4) Thalictrum diptero-
carpum

( 5) Veronica subsessilis

( 6) Anchusa italica

( 7) Phlox Elizabeth Camp-
bell

( 8) Statice

( 9) Aconitum Fischeri

(10) Aster Climax

(11) Veronica spicata

(12) Delphinium belladonna

(13) Nepeta Mussinii

(14) Phlox Miss Lingard

(15) Nepeta Mussinii

(16) Salvia pratensis

(17) Aquilegia hybrids

(18) Delphinium hybrids

(19) Alyssum saxatile

(20) Campanula Medium

(21) Hollyhocks

(22) Linum perenne

(23) Phlox Rynstrom

(24) Gaillardia grandiflora

(25) Helenium Riverton

Beauty

(26) Dianthus (crimson)

(27) Iris Lohengrin

(28) Iris Rhein Nixe

(29) Helenium rubrum

(30) Euphorbia polychroma

(31) Alyssum saxatile

(32) Aquilegia hybrids

(33) Delphinium hybrids

(34) Phlox Rheinlander

(35) Hollyhocks

(36) Linum perenne

(38) Nepeta Mussinii

(39) Salvia pratensis

(40) Phlox La Vogue

(41) Phlox La Vogue

(42) Phlox B. Comte

(43) Phlox B. Comte

(44) Phlox Arendsii Greta

(45) Veronica longifolia

subsessilis

(46) Anthemis tinctoria

(47) Stachys grandiflora

superba

(48) Iberis gibraltica

(49) Phlox Lapham

(50) Plumbago Larpentae

(51) Iberis gibraltica

(52) Veronica longi. sub. ,

(53) Ranunculus acris fl. pi.

(54) Campanula glomerata
(.55) Matricaria Little Gem

THE FORMAL GARDEN 87

14. Any treatment of the free, rectangular spaces outside the axes
is better applied to the margins of such spaces than to the centers.
The latter should be left free, or at any rate should not be made sites
for mass effects of architecture or planting which would compete in
interest with the axial termini.

15. Color effects, where attempted, are better developed along the
boundaries, in wall, hedge or border plantings, than in the interior
spaces.

16. Details of architecture and sculpture must, of course, be kept
consistent throughout the garden. Simple and classical forms are
usually to be preferred.

17. The flower bed should not be planted directly against the hedge
(or other divisional planting), but should be separated from it by a
two- or three-foot walk or path. This arrangement simpUfies upkeep,
makes cutting convenient from both sides of the beds and somewhat
removes the plants in the bed from the influence of the shrubbery roots.

Rose Gardens

OWING to their requirements (and quite apart from their worthi-
ness) Roses are best grown separately — in a Rose garden, for
example. This "garden" may comprise a simple bed or a large
space set apart and treated in a formal manner. Sometimes Roses
are grown in the general "flower garden" in^ conjunction with herba-
ceous perennials, but where space permits they should be kept separate.
The site selected for Roses must be open, well drained and such as
will enable them to get the full benefit of the sun, with perhaps a little
shade in the afternoon; and, preferably, a southeastern exposure.
Avoid low, moist places. If a goodly number of bushes are to be

Goo

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roK<2.i\ StoJNB^'

Fig. 83. — Section through a Rose bed to show advisable construction on all but the best
drained soils — in which the layer of broken stone might well be omitted

88 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

planted, a garden can be designed sufl&ciently large to accommodate
them; but whether just a few plants or a whole garden is decided upon,
the beds must be made a practical width.

WIDTH OF ROSE BEDS

The size of the garden will have some bearing on the width of the
beds, but in no case should they be more than four and one-half feet
wide, and three feet is better. This is not only a practical considera-
tion from the standpoint of cutting the flowers, but in addition, Roses
produce a better effect when arranged in narrow beds, with a large
area of turf surrounding them.

The shape or outline of the beds should follow the lines of the
garden, leaving, if possible, a good, broad panel of turf down the
central axis.

A bed three feet wide will accommodate two rows of bushes planted
eighteen inches apart and nine inches from the edge of the bed.

Turf makes the most pleasing walk from a practical as well as
from an esthetic standpoint, the ground-
work of green forming a splendid foil for
the rich colors in the Roses.

PREPARATION OF ROSE BEDS

As previously stated, Roses must have
good drainage, and to make sure of this it is
advisable to supply drainage in each bed.
While it must not be understood that the
following instructions are absolutely impera-
tive to successful Rose
growing, it is certain
that the better the soil
and conditions they are
given, the better . the
Roses will grow.

This, then, is the
ideal: Dig out the bed
two or two and 'one-
half feet deep. On the
bottom place a six-inch
layer of broken stone or

— PeplK ±-D plarxt •

Fig. 84. — Planting a Rose bush — one case in which the
reset plant should stand deeper than it|grew before

THE ROSE GARDEN

fair-sized cinders. This "^ \\ // II II a

can be covered with up- 11 1/ if I ^ ^^'^' ^^^^ /oT^Wirxter

turned sods (or, if small

stone is used, the sods

may be omitted). Over

this spread a layer of S^s. Ba.T\k<2cl -o^iLK

old cow manure about ,^?:^^^^ dirl/fer wmLe-r

six inches thick when

tamped down. Then

fill up the bed with good

soil. The best prepared Fig. 85. -Protecting Roses in Winter. After the ground

soil for Roses consists freezes, cover with leaves, litter or strawy manure

of two-thirds good clay

loam and one-third well rotted cow manure. The beds should then

be allowed to settle before planting (Fig 83).

PLANTING ROSES

There is a wide diversity of opinion as to the best season for Rose
planting, but many of our most successful amateur and professional
growers prefer Autumn. They reason that the plant becomes thor-
oughly settled or established by Spring and has the advantage of a
full season's growth beginning the first warm Spring day. Further-
more, the soil is certainly in a better condition for planting in the fall,
being warm, moist and friable, whereas in Spring it is wet and cold
from thawing frost and snow.

If planted in Fall, the bushes must be protected thoroughly, accord-
ing to the method described later. Whether done in Spring or Fall,
the actual planting operations are the same. It is most important
that the roots be kept moist, as the Rose produces only a few fibrous
or feeding roots, and those few must never be exposed to sun or air.
Therefore, keep them covered right up to the actual moment of
planting. On a bright or drying day it is a good plan to have nearby
a bucket of water or, preferably, of clay puddle in which to dip the
roots of each plant as it is unpacked or uncovered. In this way the
root fibers are kept fresh and the plants suffer no check.

Just as in all other cases, the hole dug for the Rose plant must be
amply large to permit spreading the roots without cramping them.

The best Roses are "budded;" that is, the desirable kind has been
grafted on the more vigorous and hardy rootstock. Generally the
"bud," or place where it was grafted or budded, is near to the roots,

90 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

and can be located by the abrupt growth of branches from the stem
(Fig. 84). This point of union should be about two inches under the
surface when the bush is planted, so the depth to plant depends upon
the height of the bud on the stem. Of course, if this bud is seven or
eight inches high it is not advisable to bury the roots so deeply. The
object is to induce the plant proper to throw out its own roots, and
to prevent suckering from the stock. Plant firmly and keep the sur-
face soil loose. Should the soil be dry, the plants should be thoroughly
soaked, but this is not often necessary.

If pot grown plants are used the planting season is lengthened into
Summer, but the mere fact that the roots have been forced into a pot
seems to suggest unnatural cramping, and field grown plants are
recommended in preference.

PROTECTION OF ROSES

There are many methods of protecting Roses from Winter damage,
but the most effective consists of mounding the earth around the base.
The soil is scraped from between the bushes and heaped up around the
base to a height of about six to eight inches (Fig. 85). This covers the
stem and the lowest buds of all the main shoots and eliminates the
possibility of water collecting and standing around the plant. After
the surface is frozen solid, spread long manure, hay or straw among
the bushes all over the bed. This layer should not be too heavy; a
one- to two-inch thickness is plenty. The soil is thus kept from al-
ternately thawing and freezing. In Spring, after all danger of hard
frost is over, and before the sun becomes strong, the covering can be
raked off and the soil leveled. Sometimes, where only a few plants are
grown, they can be covered with inverted boxes or peach baskets.
This has been found very effective in cold climates, especially if the
basket is filled with leaves.

Climbing Roses. Young Rose vines that are not firmly estab-
lished on trellises, etc., can be laid down and entirely covered with soil
and then manure. Old plants do not need this protection as the
support itself serves to shelter the plant to some extent. However,
it is safest even in the case of the old vines to mound up the soil at
the base. Sometimes strips of burlap are nailed or fastened across the
whole plant, hay being stuffed inside.

Standard or Tree Roses. The only sure method of keeping
these alive through Winter is to dig on one side of the roots so that
the whole plant can be bent over. Then dig a shallow trench as long

THE ROSE GARDEN 91

as the plant is high and bend the latter over into the trench in a hori-
zontal position. It can be pegged down and then covered with soil
and a layer of manure as suggested for bush Roses.

Another way is to leave the "tree" standing and cover it entirely
with hay or straw, which is secured by winding burlap around the
stem and then stuflBing a plentiful supply of the straw among and over
the branches, holding it in place by winding it in with the burlap.
This, however, is not as effective as the former method.

PRUNING ROSES

While soil and location are chiefly responsible for the general vigor
of the bush, it is mainly upon the method of pruning that the quantity
and quality of flowers depend. To fully understand the correct way
to prune it is necessary to know the habits of the Rose.

Bush Roses are divided by characteristic habits of growth into
three distinct classes, namely. Shrub Roses, June Roses, and Monthly
Roses.

Shrub Roses, such as the Japanese (Rosa rugosa) or Briar {Rosa
ruhiginosa) are treated just like ordinary flowering shrubs; as they
should not be included in a formal Rose garden, they can be omitted
here.

June Roses (Hybrid Perpetuals), typified by General Jack and
Frau Karl Druschki, are vigorous growers and will make a tall bush
in one season. It is, however, flowers and not wood that is desired,
and we must prune with this aim in mind. The flowers are produced on
the current season's growth — the shoot grows and during June the
flower buds form on the end of it. Therefore, in order to produce
young shoots the old (previous year's) wood must be cut back. When
the bushes are planted in Autumn, the shoots may be shortened to
prevent excessive swaying by the wind. The real pruning, however,
must be done in Springj ust as the top buds begin to swell, which is, in
most cases, from the middle to the end of March. At that time, cut
away entirely all dead and thin, weakly shoots, leaving about three to
five good, strong canes; these should be well placed to form the skeleton
of a nice bush. Then prune these strong shoots back, to about four
to six eyes (leaf buds) — which means leaving about eight to twelve
inches of the old shoot. From these remaining eyes vigorous shoots
will quickly grow. Now to secure few, but large blooms, allow these
strong shoots to grow and pinch off all the side flower buds — allowing
only one or two to develop at the end. All the nourishment will then

92 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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Fig. 86. — Two suggested planting plans for a border. Each of these is so arranged that it
can be adapted to almost any space— a smaller number of plants being used in each sec-
tion on a limited area, and a larger number in a more extensive garden. These plans
can be used separately or as parts of a continuous border. A long period of flowering is
covered by the materials used, all of which are good for cutting purposes

go toward producing an unusually large flower on a long stem.
To produce a quantity of blooms, as is generally desired in a Rose
garden, the strong shoots arising chiefly from the base of the plant
should be pinched back occasionally. This will induce the plant to
form more wood (shoots) and attain a bushier habit. There being
more young wood, the result is naturally a greater number of flowers.

Monthly Blooming Roses (Hybrid Teas, and Teas) such as La
France and Caroline Testout, outrank all other classes for color, form
and fragrance, and as a result the modern Rose garden is composed
of practically all monthly Roses.

As in the case of June Roses, these may be shortened when planted
in Autumn, but the Spring pruning should be more severe. Monthly
Roses are more irregular in growth than the June Roses, but, as before,
the best three or four branches or shoots should be selected and all
others removed. These shoots should then be cut back to about three
or four eyes, leaving about five to eight inches of the old shoot. En-
deavor to prune so that the uppermost bud points outward, so as to
prevent the new shoots from interlacing.

The size and quantity of the flowers can, in a measure, be con-
trolled in the same manner as was recommended for June Roses.

Climbing Roses (Wichuraiana and Multiflora), such as Dorothy
Perkins, produce their flowers on last year's wood or rather on one-
year-old shoots, so that the method in pruning must be different from
that used in the case of bush Roses. The best time to do this work is

THE ROSE GARDEN 93

right after they have finished flowering, which is early in July. At
this time the strong young shoots will be seen coming up from the
base, and as these are the ones that will flower the following year, they
should be encouraged. The old branches should be cut away entirely,
or at least to a good, strong, side shoot; this will divert all sustenance
to the young growths. Where cHmbing Roses are used for covering
pergolas, arches and so on, it is, of course, not necessary to prune in
this way. However, the plant can be kept young and vigorous by
occasionally removing the very old wood.

Baby Ramblers (Polyantha) need very little pruning, but in
cutting them back the same principles apply as with the monthly
Roses, except, that, as stated, the growths need only a little shortening.

SELECTION OF VARIETIES

Because of the constant variation to which any Ust of "best Roses"
is subjected on account of the passing of old and unreliable varieties,
the creation of new ones, and the effect of different climates and soil
conditions on different sorts, it is deemed best not to make any specific
recommendations as to varieties here. There is no lack of helpful
information for the prospective planner or planter, however, for the
complete and detailed catalogs of the leading Rose growers and
dealers, the several volumes of the "Rose Annual" of the American
Rose Society, and a number of modern, authoritative cultural text-
books are all at hand to solve the problem of what kinds and varieties
of Roses to grow under any particular set of conditions.

The Perennial or Hardy Border

THE hardy border may be either simple and complete in itself,
or a series of beds arranged in a geometrical design to form the
formal flower garden. In each instance the treatment and preparation
of the beds will be the same.

If a simple, informal border is desired, it should be so placed that a
good view of it can be had from the principal rooms of the house, and
also, if possible, from the front. Sometimes, by informally widening
the shrub border, the "old-fashioned" flowers can be planted in front
of the shrubs. Thus a very pleasing effect with a good background is
obtained. A good, dark green background, not necessarily solid, is a
big asset in the border. However, if the flower bed is to line a walk
or fence, the obvious shape is long and narrow, with the planting in
straight line.

94

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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THE HARDY BORDER 95

WIDTH OF BEDS

This will vary according to the size of the place, the location of
the beds, and their length. It should not be more than about six feet,
otherwise it will be impracticable to cut or pick flowers without
stepping on the bed. In cases where they can be reached from only
one side, it is advisable to keep the width down to a maximum of
four feet.

The walks or paths in the perennial garden should be at least
three feet wide, with the main or central walk still wider. The choice
of material and type of construction is a matter of personal preference,
but a turf path, as in the Rose garden, gives the best "ground" as a
setting for the flowers. A Box-bordered brick walk is also in harmony
with an old-time effect. If a gravel or dirt walk is used, it is advisable
to leave a strip of turf at least eighteen inches wide between the bed
and the walk.

PREPARATION OF BEDS

The success of the garden or border depends upon the preparation
of the soil. Many perennial roots go deep; therefore it is essential
that the border be dug to a depth of at least eighteen to twenty-four
inches. If the soil is at all impoverished, enrich it by adding rotted
manure and bonemeal. If drainage is necessary, it can be provided
by the same method as described for Rose beds (page 88). The surface
should be quite friable, not clammy, and the whole border should be
allowed to settle before it is planted.

PLANTING

The actual operation of planting is taken up under the general
heading of "Planting" (page 67), but perhaps it would be well to
emphasize the importance of setting the plants at the right depth —
neither too deep nor too shallow. Keep the crown of leaves above
the ground level, but be sure all the roots are well covered.

ARRANGEMENT

The design, width and location of the beds and the succession of
flowers should be considered when selecting and placing the plants.
Color harmony is also a most important point. This subject (color)
is treated more fully elsewhere (page 81). The most vigorous and

96

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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THE HARDY BORDER 97

tallest growing kinds should not, of course, be planted at the front,
but neither should all the tall plants be in the background. This plan
is commonly followed, however, with the result that the "face" of
the border is rather fiat with no interesting combinations as to habits
of growth. A much better effect is secured by allowing the "spiky"
materials (as Foxgloves, Larkspurs, etc.) to stand out boldly in striking
contrast to lower growing or drooping plants. Even along the edge
this effect of contrast can be carried out on a smaller scale. Remember,
too, it is always best to plant in little colonies or clumps to give a mass
effect; furthermore, the cultivation and care are then easier. Possibly,
a Peony occasionally dotted along the border is all right, but as a rule
such "spot" plants should be omitted from the flower border.

Many perennials have beautiful flowers but poor foliage, and
therefore should not be largely massed. Such kinds should be ar-
ranged in small groups and interspersed with some other perennials or
bulbs that will flower afterward to hide or improve the appearance
of the poor foliage.

For succession of bloom some bulbs should be included; this sub-
ject is discussed on another page (page 98).

The purely perennial border will at some periods during the season,
be practically devoid of flowers, or will permit too much bare soil to
be seen. To overcome this we can rely upon annuals. The range of
selection is great, making it an easy matter to plan the border. With
the help of annuals a constant succession of bloom is assured and the
bed is always full of plants covering Mother Earth.

With this object in view, it is an admirable idea to have a supply
of annuals growing in flats (shallow boxes) or pots, that can be trans-
planted to the border whenever the necessity arises.

Some perennials are beautiful for a week or so — while the flowers
last — but then die down, leaving bare spaces. Put in a few annuals,
and the problem is solved.

Some of the hardy plants may die when it is too late to plant
others. Again, use annuals.

Aside from this use of annuals in supplementing perennials, some
excellent gardens and borders are made up entirely of annuals. In
such cases the work must be attended to each year.

Shrub borders can be greatly improved by introducing annuals
along the front to lighten the sometimes heavy, monotonous bank
of green foliage.

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Add 6 baits io e<5ck sacc-
essive circle

Fig. 89.— Diagram for use in estimating num-
ber of bulbs required for planting a circular bed

TroiTN cenier 9/^ ted nsark tKe general care

ixumber/circka bed xs bcouUm The protection of herbaceous

perennials has already been dis-
cussed, but if one is to have a
successful flower border or gar-
den some attention is necessary
during the growing season. The
soil should be constantly worked
so that the surface is kept loose
and neat.

Some kinds of plants spread
rapidly and must be kept in
check by division, which can be
done either in Autumn or early
Spring, The heavy, tall flower
spikes should be staked— before
the plant actually needs sup-
port— and the spike supported as it grows. Then there are always
some garden pests to fight, and the sooner they are killed the better
will the plants thrive.

Bulbs
In the informal flower border, it is advisable to omit all stiff
growing sorts such as Hyacinths; but some Spring- and Summer-
flowering bulbs should certainly be included in the plan.

Narcissi and Crocus can be treated as perennials — being left in
the ground from year to year. Sometimes this treatment can be suc-
cessfully apphed to Tulips, but any choice varieties should be taken
up and stored in a cool, dry place.

While these bulbs are really the basis of the Spring floral season,
the Summer flowering kinds are no less useful. As an example, the
Gladiolus and the Montbretia can be cited — they bloom at a time when
the display of flowers in the border is at a low ebb. Such bulbs can
be interspersed throughout the border, clumping them around the
particular perennials that will be through blooming by the time these
bulbs are coming along.

treatment of bulbs
As intimated above, bulbs can be divided into separate classes for
specific treatment. The following table indicates by letter to which
class each bulb belongs, and the treatment required:

BULBS

99

A . Can be left in the ground year after year and regarded simply
as herbaceous perennials.

B. Should be dug up after the first frost; then the old leaves
should be cut off and the bulbs cleaned, and allowed to dry in the
sun for awhile. Then store them in a dry place, where it is cold, but
does not freeze. They can be stored in dry soil or sand, or simply
stored (best in single layers) as they are.

C. Should be dug after the first frost, or when they have died
down, then cleaned and allowed to dry in sun. Leave about six or
eight inches of the dried foliage attached to the bulb. Tie them in
small bunches (10 to 20 bulbs) by means of the old leaves and lay
them in a cool, dry place.

PLANTING TABLE FOR BULBS

Planting

Depth
Inches

Height
Inches

Canna

Crocus (Spring) . . .
Crocus (Autumn) . .
Crown Imperials..
Daffodils

Jonquils

Poet's Narcissus

Dahlias

Eremurus

Gladiolus

Hyacinths (Dutch)

Roman

Grape

Summer

Iris, English

Spanish

Montbretias

Snowdrops

Squills

Tulips

May

Oct.-Nov.
Spring
Spring

Oct.-Nov.

Oct.-Nov.

Oct.-Nov.
Spring
Spring
May

Oct.-Nov.

Oct.-Nov.

Oct.-Nov.
Spring

Oct.-Nov.

Oct.-Nov.
May

Oct.-Nov.

Oct.-Nov.

Oct.-Nov.

3-4

3

3
4-5
5-6
5-6

6

6
3-4
2-4
4-5
4-5

2
3-5

3

3
3-4

2

3
3-4

18-36
2-4
3-4
5-6
3-6
3-6
3-5
18-36
24-36
6-12
6
6
2-3
6-12
4-5
4-5
3-5

3
3-4
5-6

24-60

3-5

4-6

24-36

12-18

12-18

12-18

36-72

48-72

24-42

9-15

9-15

5-8

24-36

18-30

18-30

18-24

3-5

4-6

15-30

Aug.
Mar. -Apr.
Sep.-Oct.
Aug.-Sep.

Apr.

Apr

Apr.
Sep.-Oct.
Aug.-Sep.
July-Aug.
Apr.-May
Apr. -May
Apr.-May
July-Aug.

May

May
July-Aug.
Mar. -Apr.

Apr.
Apr.-May

A or

C or A
C or A

C

A

A

The Rock Garden

THIS is really one of the most interesting and intensive phases
of horticulture, chiefly because the plants used are dwarf and
grow naturally in a limited space. The native habitat of these rock
plants or Alpines is at a high elevation, near the snow line on the
mountains, among the rock and boulders deposited and broken by
glaciers and other natural forces. The growing season in these loca-
tions is very short, and to withstand such climatic and soil conditions
these little plants are of necessity hardy and peculiarly fitted to nestle

100

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

S<2-ox,-i otx o/ T^ock. MooTxd - SJLoT\<z,skoalcl

always tiildowrv <2^LtK<2' back tjocatcKraiix

Fig. 90. — Cross section through a well prepared rockery or part of a rock garden

in the crevices and pockets of the rocks where soil is deposited and
root hold can be found. In building a rock garden, natural conditions
must be duplicated as nearly as possible.

The rock garden is the farthest extreme from the formal garden and
must be kept quite separate from that vicinity of the grounds unless
very effectively hidden. The ideal spot is a rugged, picturesque piece
of ground where the natural formation or deposit of rocks and boulders
suggests this treatment. Such a place should have no large trees ac-
tually on it, as the roots would impoverish the soil, but some shade
from the hot sun is desirable. A northern or northeasterly exposure
is perhaps best. The branches of any adjacent trees should not over-
hang the garden as the drip will rot the rock plants.

PREPARATION

When the site has been decided upon it should be dug deeply and
the soil enriched and lightened, if necessary, with grit and leafmold.
The soil that is to be used between the stones for the plants to grow
in, should be specially prepared. A mixture of light loam (four parts),
leafmold (two parts), road-grit, or crushed limestone rocks (one part),
and rotten manure (two parts) is most satisfactory (Fig. 90).

THE ROCK GARDEN

101

ROCKS AND STONES

The best effect is obtained by using stones from the place itself or a
nearby source as their color and formation will be quite naturalistic.
Select those that have been lying on the surface and have an old,
weather-beaten appearance. They will, of course, be of all sizes; the
average size will depend on the size of the rock garden. A large
garden demands large stones, but even in a small garden a few large
st6nes help the appearance wonderfully. It is also wise to select a
type of stone that does not crumble easily and then keep to the one
kind throughout the garden. The two chief classes of rock are igneous
and stratified (Fig. 91). The former is recognized by the irregular
shape of its fragments and the fact that no layers are seen in its
formation — granite is a good example of this type. The other may
be recognized immediately by the parallel, horizontal lines, which
form the strata of the stone. These are seen very clearly in limestone
rocks, shales, etc.

The two important styles in rock gardening are the outcome of
the use of the two widely different forms of stone described above.
If the stratified stone is used, the rock garden should be arranged to
follow that stratification throughout the garden in "uniform irregu-
larity." That is, the one _
plane of stone, although
broken in various places,
should be seen right
through the garden. This
does not mean, however,
that all stones should be
laid on the same lines
and angle. In Nature,
large pieces are broken
off outcropping ledges by
natural forces, with the
result that the dislodged
pieces tumble down in
any position, but the
unity is still apparent in

the stratification and , ^ -r-, t

cleavage. In buildmg O

the rock garden this ef- Fig. 91.— The two chief classes of rock

Slr(3.Li fied- ^Lor^cz. ■

102

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Fig. 92.— An overhanging rock is an interesting feature

in a rock garden. This cross section shows how it

should be built up

feet can be imitated by
arranging smaller pieces
of rock at the foot of a
sloping rock ledge to give
the effect of naturalness.
Needless to say, the color
and general formation of
the small rocks must be
quite similar to those of
the ledge.

Where the igneous or
non-stratified stone is
used, the operation is
really not difficult, but just as pleasing when well done. There is a
natural formation called Tufa stone, apparently the work of some sub-
terranean agency, which, being full of holes (resembling a sponge) is
particularly adapted for rock garden building on a small scale. This
stone is extremely porous and irregular, having natural pockets that
are ideal for planting.

BUILDING

The largest stones should be placed at the base and form the
background; in their arrangement they should suggest the original
cause of their exposure — namely, upheaval, or glacial deposit.

The face of the rockery may, in the same garden, range from a
gentle slope to almost perpendicular; in some instances, more par-
ticularly in large gardens, the overhanging rock is very effective.
The construction of this type is best explained by an illustration (See
Fig. 92). It will be seen that each stone is effectively tied to the others
and all appear inherent in the soil.

Each stone should slope backward, so that the water will run
in toward the rockery and soak the soil between the rocks. As each
stone is laid, ram the prepared soil in every crevice and pocket so
that not the smallest air hole is left. This is possible only by building,
stone by stone, and by working the soil into the crevices with a stick.

It is most important that the soil between the stones be kept moist,
so in the event of a stone overlapping a pocket see that the rain will
in some way be drawn into the latter. Any settling of the stones will
not affect their stability if they have been laid correctly.

The rockery is best built by sections. First, arrange a group of
various sized stones — really a miniature rock garden — then start on

THE ROCK GARDEN

103

another section, repeating in a different formation another such
group and making a consistent chain of rocks, or one large, rocky ledge.
Thought should be given to providing access to all parts of the
rockery, by means of appropriate paths. The best style is simply a
trail of stones with a more or less flat surface — worked harmoniously
in with the scheme and planted about. These paths should bring one
to the most interesting points. The central or main path can be
made of irregular broken flagstone, crushed stone, or gravel.

No set rules can be stipulated as to arrangement, hence the diffi-
culty of trying to explain ideas. The best way to gain a clear con-
ception of this matter is to see and study an actual example either in
Nature or in some other man-made rockery.

PLANTING

Undoubtedly the greatest charm of the rock garden should be the
effect obtained by clothing the rock faces. Always plant in little
colonies of the same kind, that is, set half a dozen or so plants of one
variety in the same spot in the garden. Give the most favorable spots
to the choicest Alpine
gems, and keep the larger,
more vigorously growing
sorts away from their
weaker brothers. Don't
try to cover all the rock-
work, rather let it crop
out boldly at various
spots. Many rock plants,
such as the Saxifrages,
have a leaf growth that
forms a dense rosette
which would rot if water
lodged in the crown.
Such kinds are best
planted on a slant, or
even vertically. Pot
grown plants are best if

the rockery is already con- ^ 40, 7 1

structed, but if the plant- CorrcK=-L- J<dool^ go cJo^i\ xykero
ingisdoneasthebuilding ^^'^y <3lwe.ys f md soxrvc nsoistrirc.
progresses, field grown ^,'8- 93. -The wrong and the right way to set Alpme
, u 4. J plants in a rock garden. Provide deep soil pockets to

plants are best used. retain moisture and harbor the plant roots

y oat

104

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

The roots can then be laid their full length between the stones.

By interspersing dwarf evergreens throughout the rock garden
an all-year effect is obtained, and the pigmy Spruces and Junipers seem
particularly happy in such a location. On the borders, some taller
growing, but more or less dense shrubs can be installed as a back-
ground and to give some height; and even in the rockery proper,
some of the more compact growers will relieve any flatness and lend
an appearance of age to the planting.

If the rock garden boasts a pool, the moisture-loving plants should
be found in that vicinity; in fact the whole affair should duplicate a
piece of Alpine scenery.

IRRIGATION

As previously stated it is most important that the soil be kept moist.
One of the best methods of assuring this condition is to install a line
of small (two-inch) tile about one foot under ground at the head or
top of the rock garden, and connect it (by means of rubber hose)
to a faucet (Fig. 50, page 47). The trench in which the pipe is laid
should be dug with the bottom inclined toward the garden, and a
layer of crushed stone spread in it. Then the tile can be laid and
covered with stone or cinders. This insures a thorough soaking of
the soil around the plant roots and between the stones.

Fig. 94. — Section to show construction details of a small, formal pool of concrete. Unless

the sides of the hole were dug accurately, it would usually be necessary to brace the wall

forms on the outside as well as the inside, and at the bottom as well as the top

WATER GARDENS 105

Water Gardens
pools for lilies and other aquatics

IT IS possible for any flower lover to grow Water Lilies. All that
is necessary is a few square feet of water surface in a sunny spot.
For the smaller garden, one can cut a water barrel in two about
eighteen inches from the bottom, fill it two-thirds full of rich soil and
sink it in the ground at least six inches, although deeper is better.
Plant one or two LiUes, then fill with water.

The next water garden in size may be made of a hogshead (about
six feet in diameter). Saw in half (to make two ponds); sink in the
ground as before; and plant five or six Lilies in each. These ponds
should be flushed with a garden hose at least once a week to prevent
stagnation.

Larger pools lend themselves to a wider variety of treatment as to
shape, size and kinds of plants used. First of all it should be decided
whether the pool is to fit into a formal scheme, in which case it should
be regular in outline; or is to serve as a naturalistic feature and,
is, therefore, to be treated informally.

FORMAL POOLS

For a small, brick pond excavate to a depth of about two and one-
half feet, curving the sides to an angle of about forty-five degrees.
Lay the floors first and then the sides, covering the whole with a
coating of cement. Concrete pools are made in practically the same
manner except that the frost line must be considered (See details in
Fig. 94). In arranging the water supply for such a pool, it is found

V«Tf lo^ai'

v/7m/j///{i//

Fig. 95. — Cross section of a puddled clay pool showing construction of bottom and mar-
gins, intake and overflow pipes, and also depths of soil and water needed

106

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

^ttlas or gra.'

'ty. 0'Cfe>rT <f;:i;>'

96.-

•3^B.TiriciAi- Cj2.e:£.k. Bud •

-Cross section of an artificial creek bed or informal shallow pool in which the
concrete bottom and sides are hidden

most practical to simply have the water come from a faucet so that
it may be turned on from time to time to remove any scum which may
accumulate on the surface.

The construction of large formal pools should be left to an ex-
perienced contractor as they require special reinforcing and skilled
workmanship.

^.jl

Sec-Tio^

%

Pool- SHONX/IMG-

•A.MD o^

IFJ-OW PI Pi.'

Fig. 97.— Cross section of portion of a concrete pool

showing method of combining and also concealing the

drain and overflow pipes

INFORMAL POOLS

Ponds made entirely
of concrete are best
adapted only to the
small, formal garden.
The most economical
method of construction
for the informal pool is
the clay puddUngproc-
ess in which an im-
pervious layer is made
over the bottom and
sides of the pool. After
deciding upon the shape
and the size, excavate
the whole to a depth of
about three feet (Fig.
95). On a wooden plat-
form spread a wheel-
barrow load of clay and
pulverize it to pieces no

WATER GARDENS

107

rTo 5 c.v</er

CoiNsJLrocLioiN •/Ariificio-l Pool
^■waterproof n\oric>.T- ot\ mniar
aarfo.ce o/'coi\creL<2.j

Fig. 98.— Cross section of an attractively edged pool of concrete with a supplementary,
smaller pool and waterfall provided at one end for added effect

larger than a walnut. By adding water, a little at a time, and pound-
ing with a wooden maul reduce the whole to a putty-like consistency;
then start moistening and pounding the second load, etc. Having re-
duced sufficient clay to a proper consistency spread it about three inches
thick over the sides and bottom of the pool, beating it down as laid.
In treating the margins of such a pool it is best to lay rocks in the
clay down the bank to about a mean water level; this will prevent a
gradual washing away of the clay at the water's edge. If water plants
are to be used in the pool put in a layer of rich soil twelve inches to
fifteen inches deep; then let in enough water to cover this layer about
three inches deep and let the pond stand for a few days to warm up
before planting.

PLANTING

In concrete or brick pools it is necessary to plant in some sort of
a receptacle, either fixed or movable, the size ranging from one by two
feet to two by four feet and the depth from ten to twelve inches. If
these pockets are made of brick, do not cement the joints, but merely
build a loose wall. Tubs make good receptacles in which to plant.

WINTERING

Hardy Water Lihes will take care of themselves, and natural ponds
may remain undisturbed. The more tender varieties planted in loose
tubs may be removed to a cool cellar, or, if they cannot be removed,
drain off the water and cover the plants with hay, leaves, etc., and
place a few planks over the top. Really tender day bloomers are quite
difficult to winter over, and unless the grower understands the subject
thoroughly it would not be advisable for him to attempt the growing
of these tender sorts.

108

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

MARGINAL TREATMENT OF INFORMAL POOLS

Many well designed and well constructed pools often lack proper
treatment of their bare concrete edges. It is this particular portion
that really needs most attention as it will conceal much of the hand-
work of man. In the construction of the informal pools shown in
Figs. 96 and 97 the concrete will not be seen at all if properly made.
When water-loving plants are not planted along the margin, sod
should be used. Make the sides and bottom of at least three inches
of reinforced concrete; four to six inches is better. The bottom surface
of the excavation will serve as a form for the pool. See that the outlet

pipe has a connection at
BrickCopiiN^ the bottom that can be

unscrewed so that the
pool may be drained
(Fig. 97).

There is always a
certain charm about the
noise of running water,
and this feature may be
produced by constructing
a small, additional pool
at one end of the larger
one (Fig. 98). If Water
Lilies are to be grown in
the pool let only a small
amount of water run
over the rocks, as the
plants do not thrive

\^ icjrf <zd^ is desi r<zd •

'^v^atz^tm^cni^do^^v«■r^t

cz. otnG ^czizjz.

Fig. 99.— Section through side of a shallow pool to show
details of concrete and foundation construction and
arrangement of brick coping, if desired; also line to be fol-
lowed if turf margin is wanted instead of coping

where water is too active. The introduction of a few goldfish will
keep the water rid of mosquitoes.

COPING FOR FORMAL POOLS

Good brick laid on edge makes an excellent coping for formal
pools (Fig. 99). Sandstone or limestone of uniform thickness laid quarry
face also makes a good coping. It should not extend over three
inches above the surrounding surface — the closer it is, the better.

Where a sod edge is desired, the pool should be constructed as
shown in Fig. 96. This arrangement will provide ample soil in which
to grow turf right up to the water's edge.

GARDEN ACCESSORIES

109

Fig. 100.— Sketch or elevation of a simple rustic garden seat with shelter

Garden Accessories

AS AN ornament for the garden there is nothing better than
the sundial. Although sundial time and clock time do not agree
except on four days during the year (namely, June 15th, September
15th, December 14th, and March 15th), they are certainly close
enough to permit the dial to serve its real purpose in the garden.

There are two kinds of
sundials, horizontal and per-
pendicular, the latter being
affixed to the side of a build-
ing or wall and therefore not
so often of use in the garden.
The dial proper is mounted
•on a pedestal, usually of stone
or marble, and must be abso-
lutely level, with the gnomen
or shadow-casting piece point-
ing to true north. The
upper surface of the gnomen
must form an angle with the
dial that shall be the same
number of degrees as the
degree of latitude for the Fig. 101.— Suggested plan of a summer house

place in which the dial is to with open sides, especially suited for a high

, J location where views can ba had in all

be used. directions

no

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

i^ 1^ 1 V r.

H- 0 a s n

Gar a (3 3^

D

ODD \ yAl ODD
D D o y 'J J .D Q g

TeT\i\i5

C curl

(For caption see facing page)

GARDEN ACCESSORIES 111

There are a number of appropriate settings in the garden for the
sundial. It may be set at the end of a garden walk, as a feature located
on some axis of the formal garden, or on the lawn of the informal
garden where it can be seen from some prominent room and window
of the house. For practical use the sundial must always be set in the
open where scarcely any shade will fall on it. The pedestal for the
dial may be made of almost any solid material, from classic marble
to a pile of field stone, but it must be solid, as any tilting will throw the
gnomen off the correct angle.

SEATS

A seat in the garden is as important as a chair in the house. Seats
vary in importance from the simple wooden bench to the elaborate
semi-circular exedra as found in the typical Italian gardens. A seat
must harmonize with the design of the garden ; that is, one would not
place a rustic or rough wood seat in a formal garden. The seat should
blend in with its surroundings, yet serve a practical use.

One important consideration in the choice of a material for the
garden seat is its lasting qualities, for this furniture is exposed to all
the outdoor elements. This is why we find so many garden seats made
of stone. Stone seats may not be as comfortable as wooden ones, yet
if considerable care and attention is not given the wooden seat from
year to year, it will soon rot and fall to pieces. About the best material
for wooden seats is Red Cedar with the bark left on; but all parts
that come in contact with the ground should be given a coat of some
preservative, such as creosote.

Seats in the garden may be placed at a number of good positions,
but we usually find them in the shade where a pleasing view of the
garden may be seen while one is resting. They are often designed
with a shelter overhead, or built in a circular fashion about some
old tree.

Today it is not a difi&cult matter to purchase almost any type and
design of garden seat from concerns that make a specialty of such work.

SUMMER HOUSES

Summer houses range in type from the simple shelter hut of the
cottage garden to the classic garden temple. One may enjoy the

Fig. 102.— Three ways in which a pergola can be (as it always should be) made useful as

well as ornamental. In the upper plan it connects the dwelling with another building;

in the center plan it forms a background enclosing a portion of the garden; in the lower

plan it is part of a rest-house or shelter

J12

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

•Circular -pc^rg^ole^-

Fig. 103.— A circular pergola, though rather unusual, can be used as the central fea-
ture of a lawn or garden

garden doubly well if somewhere near is a shady seat beneath a vine-
covered summer house wliere one may rest and drink in the atmos-
phere of repose and beauty of the garden. Almost all home grounds,
either large or small, have a place of advantage for a summer house.
If not in the garden proper it may be at some vantage point overlooking
the garden. Such a structure should not be placed where there is no
excuse for it, nor should it predominate in the landscape. Like other

GARDEN ACCESSORIES

113

Ef

n

UUUUUUUULIU

nnnnnnnnnn
nnnnnnnnnn
nnnnnnnnnn
^nnnnnnnnnn
^^nnnnnnnn

nnui

nnnr

nnnr

nnni

nnni

nnni

•ELLYATIOA o/^SlMGLL POST PLRGoLa* i

Fig. 104.— Elevation of a single-post pergola showing relation of trellis or screen to the
surmounting details

garden accessories it should harmonize in design and construction with
its surroundings. Associated with the ideal summer house are benches,
tables and seats to make it comfortable and so that, if desired, after-
noon teas may be served there. A summer house on a hillside or
ledge overlooking the surrounding country may be found especially
enjoyable (Figs. 100 and 101).

If made of wood it should be of some sort that will last, such as
Red Cedar, Locust, Larch or Cypress. When Cedar logs are used to
construct a house of rustic design, treat them with kerosene to preserve
the bark and protect it against the ravages of boring insects.

If the garden adjoins the residence and a summer house is built as a
feature therein, it should conform to the architecture of the house.
If the garden house has but one open side it should face the south
and have a pleasant outlook in that direction. The floor may consist
of tile, brick, slate or flagstone and be constructed in the same manner
as a walk of the same material. If the summer house is used as a
place to serve tea or other refreshments, it should have a tight roof,
as leaves, twigs, etc., from overhanging trees will fall 'through an open
superstructure.

THE PERGOLA

Originally, the pergola was used only to span a walk extending
between two points, but now we find it employed as a shelter, as a
central motif, as a feature at the far end of formal gardens, etc. (Figs,

114

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

GARDEN ACCESSORIES

115

102 and 106). Porch pergolas are used over seats, doorways, and
gateways. The single-post pergola (Figs. 104 and 105) is used in
most cases for a screen effect, much as a hedge might be used, between
the flower garden and kitchen garden (Fig. 106).

Pergolas may be made of a variety of materials and in numerous
designs. The columns may be made of stone, brick, wood, or cobble-
stone and the whole designed either as a dignified piece of architecture
which would fit well into a formal garden, or quite informally, as
in the case of rustic work. The upright columns should be placed

S]nGLL- POST PERGOLA ■ /AAY • BH • U5ED -TO-in-
CLOSI, A- BACK- YARP- GA&DIJn- o-^rOETAAL; GAl^DLM-

Fig. 106.— Plan and elevation showing how a single-post pergola can be used to enclose
a garden, especially when used in connection with a brick wall or a sunken garden area

116

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

A

. '" ^

V^^--^:

c^.

ft

DDnnnc
DnnnnE
nnnDDE

I]

DDnnnq
DnnnnL

DnnDDE

Fig. 107— Elevation for a simple but graceful garden gate surmounted by an arch over
which vines may be allowed to grow. Compare Fig. 1

about eight feet apart, both lengthwise and transversely, and should
be between eight and nine feet high over all. If the structure spans a
grass walk, it is important that vines should not be grown so close to-
gether as to cast a dense shade, for this would injure the grass. In
such a case, place the rafters about four feet apart. The more formal
and dignified pergolas have wooden columns, usually of Cypress and
of classic design, which are given three or four coats of paint to prevent
weathering. The columns must stand on a stone or concrete founda-
tion (Fig. 105).

In constructing a rustic pergola, Red Cedar or Locust is recom-
mended, and all parts that come in contact with the ground should be
treated with a preservative mixture such as creosote. This also applies
to the intersection of posts and rafters where moisture is likely to
collect.

Simple uprights or posts need not be as large as columns, but appear
to best advantage when about eight inches in diameter at the ground.

Where a pergola is placed on a steep incline, the roof should be
made in sections on several planes; if the slope is slight, only one plane
is necessary.

If the pergola does not span a regular walk it is well to give it a
floor of either brick, stepping stones, tile, or concrete, in which case the
posts may rest on this flooring.

GARDEN ACCESSORIES

Rafters are usually placed about two feet apart and vine strips on
top about a foot apart. White is the universal color for the pergola;

^ Q" ^ it seems to bring out the color of vines

I { and flowers by contrast.

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Fig. 108.— End elevation of arch shown in Fig.

108, to show construction and supply the names

of important parts

SUGGESTED PERGOLA SPECIFICATIONS

Foundation. Excavate twenty-four to
thirty-six inches (or six inches below frost
line), and over a sufficient area to allow
all cement to extend one inch beyond the
wood that it supports. Cover the bottom
with six inches of cin-
ders and pack firmly.
Fill with a 1-2^-5
concrete mixture to
the level of the ground.
A one-half inch by 18
inch iron anchor rod
with a one-half inch plate fastened to the
bottom end is embedded in the concrete to a
depth of six inches.

Columns. These are best made of Cypress*
seven and a half to eight feet in height with a
base diameter of ten inches. Set them eight
feet apart on centers. Each column is held
firmly by an anchor rod fastened by means of
a bolt drawn down on a one-quarter-inch top
plate (Fig. 105).

Overhead. The plate should be of two
two-by-six or three-by-eight-inch timbers set
on edge, the outside faces being aligned with
the side of the columns. They may be closed
by boxing top and bottom with one-inch
boards. Plate and rafter ends are cut in same
design. Rafters are made of

two-by-four-inch pieces set on

edge and fastened to the plate
with angle irons.

Finish. If the structure is
to be stained, use a good preserv-

118 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

ative stain, followed by two coats of boiled linseed oil thinned with
turpentine. If it is to be painted, use three coats of outside white,
allowing twenty-four hours for drying between each two coats

Columns or uprights constructed of brick should have bases and
caps of either cut stone or brick laid on their sides. There should be a
quarter-inch projection at the bottom, but the caps should be flush
with sides of columns at the top. Stucco columns may be built on
tile; these have proved economical and substantial. They should be
built on stone or concrete foundations projecting beyond the tile.

If the pergola is to have a floor, it should be constructed with the
idea of permanency. The foundation for a tile, brick, or concrete
floor should be at least six inches of cinders. On top of this is placed
four inches of concrete (1-23^-5 mixture). For brick or tile floors,
place on this a one-inch cushion of bar sand. If cement is used it is
best to tint it by using either lamp black or red mortar stain applied
to the finish coat. Cement paving should have expansion joints at
frequent intervals to prevent cracking. A good looking cement floor
is made in small squares to resemble tile.

The arch is used only to span a path. It may be made of wood or
of iron, the latter being more durable, but not so pleasing until en-
veloped by vines. An arch without a vine lacks completeness. If the
arch is intended to span a wide and much used path or walk, it should
be made heavy and substantial looking. Arches that span narrow
garden paths may be simple in design and construction (See Figs. 1,
107 and 108 ).

m

m

A SELECTED PLANT LIST FOR GENERAL USE

Any of the following plants will succeed under ordinary conditions, that is
to say, in fairly good garden soil where it is not wet nor very dry, and in a
location which gets a fair amount of sunlight. Many of the varieties mentioned
in this list will also be found recommended elsewhere for planting under
special conditions where they will succeed as well as for general purposes.
The object of including them here is to give a wider choice to the fortunate
planter who has no unusual conditions to contend with. This list will be found
useful also for reference as to the size of plants at maturity.

Large Trees (75 to 150 feet)

DECIDUOUS

Common Name. Botanical Name
Norway Maple, Acer platanoides.
Purple-leaved Maple. Acer platanoides

Schwedleri.
Silver Maple, Acer dasycarpum.
Red, Scarlet, or Swamp Maple, Acer rubrum
Sugar Maple, Acer saccharutn.
Horse Chestnut (Buckeye), ^sculus Hippo-

castanum.
Tree of Heaven, Ailanthus glandulosa.
White Birch, Betula alba.
Cherry Birch, Betula lenta.
Yellow Birch, Betula lutea.
Paper Birch, Betula papyrifera.
Red Birch, Betula rubra.
Chestnut, American, Castanea americana.
Western Catalpa, Catalpa speciosa.
Wild Black Cherry, Cerasus serotina.
American Beech, Fagus ferruginea.
European Beech, Fagus sylvatica.
Purple-leaved Beech (Copper Beech). Fagus

sylvatica purpurea.

White Ash, Fraxinus americana.
Honey Locust, Gleditschia triacanthos.
Black Walnut, Juglans nigra.
European Larch, Larix europsea.
Tamarack, Larix leptolepis.

Common Name Botanical Name

Tulip Tree (Tulip Poplar). Liriodendron

tulipifera.
Chinese Cork Tree, Phellodendron amurense.
Buttonwood (Sycamore. Oriental Plane),

Platanus orientalis.
Lombardy Poplar, Populus nigra fastigiata.
White Oak, Quercus alba.
Swamp White Oak, Quercus bicolor.
Turkey Oak, Quercus Cerris.
Scarlet Oak, Quercus coccinea.
Mossy Cup Oak, Quercus macrocarpa.
Pin Oak, Quercus palustris.
Red Oak, Quercus rubra.
Chestnut Oak, Quercus Prinus.
Black Oak, Quercus tinctoria.
Black Locust (Flowering Locust). Robinia

pseudacacia.
Maidenhair Tree (Gingko), Gingko biloba.
Weeping Willow, Salix babylonica.
White Willow, Salix alba.
Thurlow's Willow, Salix elegantissima.
Silver Linden, Tilia tomentosa (argentea).
European Linden, Tilia vulgaris.
American Elm (White Elm), Ulmus americana.
Scotch Elm, Ulmus scabra.
English Elm. Ulmus campestris.

Large Trees (75 to 100 feet)

EVERGREEN

Common Name. Botanical Name.
Balsam Fir. Abies balsamea.
Nikko Fir, Abies brachyphylla.
White Fir, Abies concolor.
White Spruce, Picea alba.
Norway Spruce, Picea excelsa.
Black Spruce, Picea nigra.
Eastern Spruce, Picea orientalis.
Servian Spruce, Picea Omorika.
Colorado Spruce, Picea pungens.
Colorado Blue Spruce, Picea pungens glauca.

Common Name Botanical Name

Koster's Blue Spruce, Picea pungens Kosteri.
Douglas Spruce, Pseudotsuga Douglasii.
Austrian Pine, Pinus austriaca.
Bull Pine. Pinus ponderosa.
White Pine. Pinus Strobus.
Scotch Pine, Pinus sylvestris.
Red Pine, Pinus resinosa.
Pitch Pine, Pinus rigida.
Hemlock. Tsuga canadensis.

]20

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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PLANTS FOR GENERAL USE

121

Medium Sized Trees (50 to 75 feet)

DECIDUOUS

Common Name Botanical Name

Buckeye, ^Esculus glabra.
Alder, Alnus glutinosa.

Cutleaf Weeping Birch, Betula alba laciniata.
American Birch, Betula populifolia.
Hornbeam, Carpinus americana.
Indian Bean, Catalpa bignonioides.
Kadsura Tree, Cercidiphyllum japonicum.
Hackberry (Nettle Tree), Celtis occidentalis.
Double White Flowering Cherry, Cerasus

avium plenum.
Japanese Flowering Cherryi Cerasus sinensis

rosea.
Yellow Wood, Cladrastis tinctoria.

Common Name Botanical Name

Weeping Beech, Fagus sylvatica pendula.
Kentucky Coffee Tree, Gymnocladus cana-

Varnish tree, Koelreuteria paniculata.
Sweet Gum, Liquidambar stryaciflua.
Cucumber Tree, Magnolia acuminata.
Umbrella Tree, Magnolia tripetala.
Sour Gum, Nyssa sylvatica.
Carolina Poplar, Populus caroliniana.
Pyramidal Oak, Quercus fastigiata.
Laurel-leaved Willow, Salix pentandra.
Yellow Bark Willow, Salix vitellina.
Sassafras, Sassafras officinale.

Medium Sized Trees (20 to 40 feet)

EVERGREEN

Common Name Botanical Name

Spanish Fir, Abies Pinsapo.
Eastern Arborvitae, Biota orientalis.
American Holly, Ilex opaca.
Chinese Juniper, Juniperus chinensis.
Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana.
Blue Virginian Cedar, Juniperus virginiana

glauca.
Schott's Cedar, Juniperus virginiana Schottii.
Swiss Stone Pine, Pinus cembra.
Obtuse-leaved Cypress, Retinispora obtusa.

Common Name Botanical Name

Pea-fruited Cypress, Retinispora pisifera.
Golden Pea-fruited Cypress, Retinispora

pisifera aurea.
Plumed Japan Cypress, Retinispora plumosa.
Golden Japan Plumed Cypress, Retinispora

plumosa aurea.
Japanese Tree Yew, Taxus cuspidata capitata.
American Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis.
Pyramidal Arborvitae, Thuya pyramidalis.

Small Trees (15 to 30 feet)

DECIDUOUS

Common Name. Botanical Name.
Tartarian Maple, Acer tatarica.
European Cork Maple, Acer campestre.
Box Elder, Acer Negundo.
Mountain Maple, Acer spicatum.
Japanese Maple, Acer polymorphum.
Hercules' Club, Aralia spinosa.
European Hornbeam, Carpinus betulus.
Japanese Catalpa, Catalpa Kaempferi.
Bird Cherry, Cerasus Padus.
Red Bud (Judas Tree), Cercis canadensis.
Japanese Dogwood. Cornus Kousa.
White Dogwood, Cornus florida.
Pink Dogwood, Cornus florida rubra.
Scarlet Thorn, Crataegus coccinea.
Washington Thorn, Crataegus cordata.
English Hawthorn, Crataegus Oxyacantha.
Cockspur Thorn, Crataegus crus-galli.
Common Haw, Crataegus mollis.
Orange Haw, Crataegus punctata.
Fern-leaf Beech, Fagus asplenifolium.
Flowering Ash, Fraxinus Ornus.

Common Name Botanical Name

Snowdrop Tree . Halesia tetraptera.
Sweet Bay, Magnolia glauca.
Soulange's Magnolia, Magnolia Soulangeana.
Sorrel Tree, Oxydendron arboreum.
Flowering Peach, Prunus persica.
Purple-leaf Plum, Prunus Pissardi.
Hop Tree, Ptelea trifoliata.
Siberian (Zrab, Pyrus baccata.
Scented Crab, Pyrus coronarius.
Flowering Crab, Pyrus floribunda.
Bechtel's Crab, Pyrus ioensis Bechtelii.
Parkmann's Crab, Pyrus Parkmannii.
Chinese Crab, Pyrus spectabilis.
Smooth Sumach, Rhus glabra.
Pussy Willow, Salix discolor.
Rosemary Willow, Salix rosmarinifolia.
Goat Willow, Salix caprea.
Chinese Lilac, Syringa pekinensis.
Japanese Tree Lilac, Syringa japonica.
American Mountain Ash, Sorbus americana.
European Mountain Ash, Sorbus aucuparia.

Tall Shrubs (8 to 10 feet)

DECIDUOUS

Common Name Botanical Name
False Indigo, Amorpha fruticosa.
Barberry, Berberis Gagnepainii.
Allspice (Sweet Shrub), Calycanthus floridus,
Siberian Pea Tree, Caragana arborescens.
Japanese Judas Tree, Cercis japonica.
White Fringe, Chionanthus virginicus.
Bladder Senna, Colutea arborescens.
Red-twig Dogwood. Cornus alba.

Common Name Botanical Name

Alternate-leaved Dogwood, Cornus alterni-

folia.
Cornelian Cherry, Cornus mas.
Hazel, Corylus Avellana.
Purple Hazel, Corylus Avellana purpurea.
Rose Box, Cotoneaster foveolata.
Rose Box, Cotoneaster moupinensis.
Rose Box, Cotoneaster hupehensis.

122

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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PLANTS FOR GENERAL USE

123

TALL SHRUBS — continued

^ Common Name Botanual Name

White Deutzia, Deutzia crenata.
Pink Deutzia, Deutzia Pride of Rochester.
Waterer's Deutzia, Deutzia Waterii.
Oleaster, Elaeagnus angustifolia.
Burning Bush, Euonymus atropurpurea.
Spindle Tree, Euonymus europaeus.
Pearl Bush, Exochorda grandiflora.
Golden Bell, Forsythia intermedia.
Witch Hazel, Hamamelis virginica.
Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus.
Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides.
Chinese Witch Hazel, Hamamelis mollis.
Spice Bush, Laurus Benzoin.
Amur River Privet, Ligustrum amurensis.
Ibota Privet, Ligustrum Ibota.
Common Privet, Ligustrum vulgare.
Californian Privet. Ligustrum ovalifolium.
Ruprecht's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Ruprech-

tiana.
Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica.
Mock Orange, Philadelphus coronarius.
Large-flowered Mock Orange, Philadelphus

coronarius grandiflorus.
Gordon's Mock Orange, Philadelphus Gor-

donianus.
Dwarf Buckeye, Pavia macrostachya.
Red Choke Berry, Pyrus arbutifolia.
Prairie Rose, Rosa setigera.
Cathay Rose, Rosa multiflora cathayensis.
Smoke Bush (Purple Fringe), Rhus cotinus.

Common Name Botanical Name

Stag's Horn Sumach, Rhus typhina.
Common Elder, Sambucus canadensis.
Golden Elder, Sambucus canadensis aurea
Aitchinson's Spiraea, Spiraea Aitchinsonii.
Lindley's Spiraea, Spiraea Lindleyana.
Pink Spiraea, Spiraea Billardii.
Ninebark, Spiraea opulifolia.
Golden Ninebark, Spiraea opulifolia aurea
Bladder Nut, Staphylea colchica.
Japanese Storax, Styrax japonica.
Hungarian Lilac, Syringa Josikaea.
Rouen Lilac, Syringa rothomagensis.
Persian Lilac, Syringa persica.
Late-flowering Lilac, Syringa villosa.
Common Lilac, Syringa vulgaris.
Russian Lilac, Syringa Wolfii.
Tamarisk, Tamarix africana.
French Tamarisk, Tamarix gallica.
Tamarisk, Tamarix odessana.
Arrow Wood, Viburnum dentatum.
Wayfaring Tree, Viburnum lantana.
Sheepberry, Viburnum lentago.
High-bush Cranberry, Viburnum Opulus.
Guelder Rose, Viburnum Opulus sterile.
Black Haw, Viburnum prunifolium.
Weigela, Weigela rosea.
Many-flowered Weigela, Weigela floribunda.
Yellow Weigela, Weigela lutea.
Red Weigela, Weigela Abel Carriere.

Tall Shrubs (8 to 10 feet)

EVERGREENS

Common Name Botanical Name.

Japanese Holly, Ilex crenata.
Common Juniper, Juniperus communis.
Irish Juniper, Juniper hibernica.
Thread-branched Cypress, Retinisporafilifera.
Golden Thread-branched Cypress, Retinis-

pora filifera aurea.
Veitch's Japanese Cypress, Retinispora SQuar-

rosa Veitchii.

Common Name Botanical Name

Great Laurel, Rhododendron maximum.
Tree Box, Buxus arborescens.
Hybrid Rhododendron, Rhododendron album

elegans.
Sitka Spruce, Thuya Standishii.
Golden Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis lutea.
Siberian Arborvitae, Thuya sibirica.

Medium Shrubs (5 to 8 feet)

DECIDUOUS

Common Name Botanical Name

June Berry, Amelanchier Botryapium,
White Azalea, Azalea arborescens.
Great Flame Azalea, Azalea calendulacea.
Pinxter Flower, Azalea Vaseyi.
Clammy Azalea, Azalea viscosa.
Rose Box, Cotoneaster divaricata.
Rose Box. Cotoneaster Franchetii.
Rose Box, Cotoneaster Dielsiana.
Corylopsis, Corylopsis spicata.
Variegated Dogwood, Cornus alba variegata.
Silky Cornel, Cornus sericea.
European Osier, Cornus sanguinea.
Common Red Osier, Cornus stolonifera.
Japanese Quince, Cydonia japonica.
Lemone's Deutzia, Deutzia Lemoinei.
Rough-leaved Deutzia, Deutzia scabra.
Leatherwood, Dirca palustris.
Enkianthus, Enkianthus campanulatus.
Enkianthus, Enkianthus japonica.
Japanese Oleaster, Elaeagnus Jongipes.

Common Name Botanical Name

Cork Bark, Euonymus alatus.
Strawberry Bush, Euonymus americana.
Fortune's Golden Bell, Forsythia Fortunei.
Green-bark Golden Bell, Forsythia viridissima
Drooping Golden Bell, Forsythia suspensa.
Japanese Witch Hazel, Hamamelis japonica.
Native Hydrangea, Hydrangea arborescens.
Single Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata.
Double Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata

grandiflora.
Winter Berry, Ilex verticillata.
Virginian Willow, Ilea virginica.
Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle, Lonicera fra-

grantissima.
Maack's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Maackii.
Morrow's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Morrowii.
Fly Honeysuckle, Lonicera Xylosteum.
Standish's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Standishii.
Starry Magnolia, Magnolia stellata.
Scentless Mock Orange, Philadelphus inodoru

124

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

H i

/

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/

/

PLANTS FOR GENERAL USE

125

MEDIUM SHRUBS — continued

Common Name Botanical Name

Double-flowering Almond, Prunus amygdalus.
Double-flowering Plum, Prunus triloba.
Black Choke Berry, Pyrus nigra.
White Scotch Rose, Rosa spinosissima altaica.
Father Hugo's Rose, Rosa hugonis.
Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica.
Fragrant Sumach, Rhus aromatica.
Cut-leaved Elder, Sambucus nigra laciniata.
Red-fruited Elder, Sambucus racemosa.
Fine-leaved Spiraea, Spiraea arguta.

True Bridal Wreath,

Common Name Botanical Name

Reeve's Spiraea, Spiraea Reevesiana.
Ash-leaved Spiraea, Spiraea sorbifolia.
Vanhouttei's Spiraea, Spiraea Vanhouttei.
Withe Rod, Viburnum cassinoides.
Japanese Cranberry, Viburnum dilatatum.
Japanese Snowball, Viburnum plicatum.
Wright's Viburnum, Viburnum Wrightii.
White Weigela, Weigela amabilis.
Vanhoutt's Weigela, Weigela Vanhouttei.
Silvery Weigela, Weigela hortensis.
Spiraea prunifolia, fl. pi.

Medium Shrubs (5 to 8 feet)

EVERGREENS

Boxwood, Buxus sempervirens.
Large-leaved Box, Buxus Handsworthi.
Fire Thorn, Crataegus pyracantha.
Grecian Juniper, Juniperus excelsa stricta.
Mountain Laurel, Kalmia latifolia.
Dwarf White Pine, Pinus strobus brevifolia.
Mountain Pine, Pinus montana.
Graceful Japanese Cypress, Retinispora ob-

tusa gracilis.
Oregon Grape, Mahonia japonica.
Gregory's Spruce, Picea Gregoriana.

Japanese Table Pine, Pinus densiflora um-
braculifera.

Rosenthal's Arborvitae, Thuya Rosenthalii.

Japanese Bush Yew, Taxus cuspidata.

Graceful Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis gracilis.

Dwarf Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis minima.

Short-leaved Hemlock, Tsuga diversifolia.

Great Laurel, Rhododendron catawbiense.

Hybrid Rhododendrons, Rhododendron
eatawbieiise, Vars. Chas. Bagley, Chas.
Dickens, Delicatissima, Giganteum,
C. S. Sargent, Smirnovi, Schlippenbachii,
H. W. Sargent, atrosanguineum

Small Shrubs (3 to 5 feet)

DECIDUOUS

Lead Plant, Amorpha canescens.
Butterfly Bush, Buddleia Veitchii.
Japanese Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii.
Chinese Barberry, Berberis diaphana.
Beauty Fruit, Callicarpa purpurea.
Fontanesia, Fontanesia Fortunei.
New Jersey Tea, Ceanothus americanus.
Sweet Pepper Bush, Clethra alnifolia.
Oak-leaved Hydrangea, Hydrangea querci-

folia.
Shrubby St. John's Wort, Hypericum aureum,

Hypericum prolificum.
Yellow Globe Flower, Kerria japonica.
Variegated Globe Flower, Kerria japonica

variegata.
Regel's Privet, Ligustrum Regelianum.
Bayberry, Myrica cerifera.
Pea Bush, Lespedeza Sieboldii, Lespedeza

japonica.

Golden Mock Orange, Philadelphus coron-

arius aureus.
Lemoine's Mock Orange, Philadelphus Le-

moinei.
Beach Plum, Prunus maritima.
White Globe Flower, Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Japanese Rose, Rosa rugosa.
Shining Sumach, Rhus copallina.
Golden Currant, Ribes aureum.
Red Currant, Ribes sanguineum.
Thunberg's Spiraea, Spiraea Thunbergii.
Snowberry, Symplioricarpos racemosa.
Coral Berry, Symphoricarpos vulgare.
Lace Bush, Stephanandra flexuosa.
Maple-leaved Viburnum, Viburnum aceri-

folium.
Scented Guelder Rose, Viburnum Carlesii.
Weigela, Weigela Eva Rathke.
Florida Weigela, Weigela florida.

Small Shrubs (3 to 5 feet)

EVERGREENS
Biota orientalis

Golden Chinese Arborvitae

aurea.
Savin Juniper, Juniperus Sabina
Japanese Juniper, Juniperus japonica.
Pfitzer's Juniper, Juniper chinensis Pfitzeriana
Tripartite Juniper, Juniperus tripartita.
Dwarf Mountain Pine, Pinus montana Mughus
Crip's Golden Cypress, Retinospora obtusa

Crippsii.

Short-leaved Japanese Yew, Taxus cuspidata

brevifolia.
Compact Golden Yew, Taxus tardiva aurea.
Heath-leaved Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis

ericoides.
Hovey's Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis

Hoveyi.
Globe Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis globosa.
Ellwanger's Arborvitae, Thuya EUwangeriana

126

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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PLANTS FOR GENERAL USE

127

SMALL SHRUBS (EVERGREENS) — continued

Common Name Botanical Name

Sargent's Weeping Hemlock, Tsuga Sargentii

pendula.
Drooping Andromeda, Andromeda Cateshaei.
Flowering Andromeda, Andromeda floribunda.
Japanese Andromeda. Andromeda japonica.
Japanese Azalea, Azalea amoena.
Japanese Azalea, Azalea Hinodigiri.
Box-leaved Rose Box, Cotoneaster buxifolia.
Inkberry, Ilex glabra.
Holly-leaved Mahonia, Mahonia aquifolia.

Common Name Botanical Name

Dotted Rhododendron, Rhododendron punc-

tatum.
Carolina Rhododendron, Rhodendron carolin-

iana.
Hybrid Rhododendrons, Rhodendron cataw-

biense album; Vars. Caractacus, E. S.

Rand, Everestianum, Henrietta Sargent,

Ignatius Sargent, F. D. Godman, H. H.

Hunnewell, Lady Armstrong, Lady Grey

Egerton, Mrs. C. S. Sargent, Lee's Dark

Purple, Roseum elegans.

Dwarf Shrubs (Up to 3 feet)

DECIDUOUS

Zenobia, Andromeda speciosa.

Ghent Azalea, Azalea pontica.

Holland Azalea, Azalea mollis.

Blue Spiraea, Caryopteris mastacantha.

Sweet Fern, Comptonia asplenifolium.

Garland Flower, Daphne Mezereum.

Dwarf Deutzia, Deutzia gracilis..

Aaron's Beard, Hypericum calycinum.

Aaron's Beard, Hypericum Moserianum.

Shrubby St. John's Wort, Hypericum Kalmi-

Prickly Ash, Zanthoxylon americanum.

Shrubby Cinquefoil, Potentilla fruticosa.
Waterer's Spiraea, Spiraea Anthony Waterer.
Fortune's Spiraea, Spiraea callosa.
Fortune's White Spiraea, Spiraea callosa alba.
Dwarf Bush Cranberry, Virburnum Opulus

nanum.
Korean Rose, Rosa Jackii.
Dwarf Mock Orange, Philadelphus micro-

phylla.
Yellow Root, Xanthorrhiza apiifolia.

Dwarf Shrubs (Up to 3 feet)

EVERGREEN

Compact Chinese Arborvitae, Biota orientalis
compacta.

Golden Chinese Arborvitae, Biota orientalis
compacta aurea.

Canadian Juniper, Juniperus canadensis.

Golden Canadian Juniper, Juniperus cana-
densis aurea.

Trailing Canadian Juniper, Juniperus cana-
densis depressa.

Scaly-leaved Juniper, Juniperus squamata.

Prostrate Juniper, Juniperus Sabina prostrata.

Chinese Trailing Juniper, Juniperus chinensis
procumbens.

Gray Carpet Juniper. Juniperus Sabina
tamariscifolia.

Globe Juniper, Juniperus virginiana globosa.

McLxwell's Spruce, Picea excelsa Maxwellii.

Pigmy Spruce, Picea excelsa pygmea.

Dwarf Spruce, Picea excelsa nana.

Dwarf Spruce, Picea excelsa Clanbrasiliana.

Dwarf Eastern Spruce, Picea orientalis com-
pactum.

Compact Japanese Cypress, Retinispora ob-
tusa compactum.

Spreading English Yew, Taxus repandens.

Canadian Yew, Taxus canadensis.

Compact Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis
compactum.

Tom Thumb Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis

Tom Thumb.
Little Gem Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis

Little Gem.
Dwarf Box, Buxus suffruticosa.
Prostrate Rose Box, Cotoneaster horizontalis.
Prostrate Rose Box, Cotoneaster horizontalis

perpusilla.
Garland Flower, Daphne Cneorum.
Garland Flower, Daphne Genkwa.
Pachystima, Pachystima Canbyi.
Japanese Spurge, Pacysandra terminalis.
Chinese Barberry, Berberis verruculosa.
Bearberry, Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi.
Sand Myrtle, Dendrium buxifoliura.
Scotch Heather, Erica vulgaris.
Heath, Erica carnea.
Wintergreen, Gaultheria procumbens.
Periwinkle, Vinca minor.
Wilson's Rhododendron, Rhododendron Wil-

sonianum.
Rusty Rhododendron, Rhodendron ferrugi-

neum
Myrtle - leaved Rhododendron, Rhododen-
dron myrtifolium.
Rhododendron hybrids. Rhododendron Boule

de Niege, Mont Blanc, Kissena, Blandi-

anum, Glennyanum.

128

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

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PLANTS FOR SHADED SITUATIONS

129

PLANTS FOR SHADED SITUATIONS

Many of the plants named in the following list are found growing vigorously
in the open sunlight, but they are included here because it has been proved
that they also succeed in the shade. In such locations, the soil may be wet or
it may be quite dry; accordingly it will be advisable to refer to the lists of
plants recommended for various soil conditions. By cross reference to those
lists and the one immediately following, a selection can be made that will
succeed in the shade, in any particular soil condition. The foregoing list
"for general use" provides a more detailed guide to approximate sizes.

Tall Shrubs and Small Trees

DECIDUOUS

Japanese Maple, Acer polymorphum.
June Berry, Amelanchier canadensis.
Tree Azalea, Azalea arborescens.
Hornbeam (European), Carpinus Betulus.
Red Bud (Judas Tree), Cercis canadensis.
White Fringe, Chionanthus virginica.
Alternate-leaved Dogwood, Cornus alteri

folia.
White Dogwood, Cornus florida.
Pink Dogwood, Cornus florida rubra.
Cornelian Cherry, Cornus mascula.

Witch Hazel, Hamamelis virginiana, and

mollis.
Snowdrop Tree, Halesia tetraptera.
Common Privet, Ligustrum vulgare.
Spice Bush, Laurus Benzoin.
Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica.
Sorrel Tree, Oxydendron arboreum.
Chokeberry, Pyrus arbutifolia.
Mock Orange (scentless), Philadelphus in-.

odorus.
Arrowood, Viburnum dentatum.
Sheepberry, Viburnum lentago.

EVERGREEN
Tree Box, Buxus arborescens. Great Laurel, Rhododendron catawbiense.

American Holly, Ilex opaca. Hybrid Rhododendron, Rhododendron album

Japanese Holly, Ilex crenata. elegans.

Common Juniper, Juniperus communis. Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis.

Great Laurel, Rhododendron maximum. Siebold's Hemlock, Tsuga Sieboldii.

Smaller Shrubs

DECIDUOUS

Ghent Azalea, Azalea pontica.

Holland Azalea, Azalea mollis.

Five-leaved Angelica, Aralia pentaphylla.

Clammy Azalea, Azalea viscosa.

Pinxter Flower (Wood Honeysuckle), Azalea

Vaseyi.
Naked Azalea, Azalea nudiflora.
Corylopsis, Corylopsis spicata.
Silky Cornel, Cornus sericea.
Button Bush, Cephalanthus occidentalis.
New Jersey Tea, Ceanothus americanus.
Sweet Fern, Comptonia asplenifolum.
Sweet Shrub, Calycanthus floridus.
Sweet Pepper Bush, Clethra alnifolia.

Native Hydrangea,

Shrubby St. John's Wort, Hypericum aureum.

Regel's Privet, Ligustrum Ibota Regelianum.

Morrow's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Morrowii.

Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle, Lonicera fra-
grantissima.

Bayberry, Myrica cerifera.

White Globe Flower, Rhodotypos kerrioides.

Flowering Raspberry, Rubus odoratus.

Snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosa.

Coral Berry, Symphoricarpos vulgare.

Black Haw, Viburnum prunifolium.

Maple-leaved Viburnum (Hardback), Vibur-
num acerifolium.

Prickly Ash, Zanthoxylon americanum.
Hydrangea arborescens.

EVERGREEN

Drooping Andromeda, Andromeda Catesbaei.
Flowering Andromeda, Andromeda floribunda.
Japanese Andromeda, Andromeda japonica.
Evergreen Azalea, Azalea amoena.
Japanese Azalea, Azalea Hinodigiri.
Boxwood, Buxus sempervirens.
Heather, Erica vulgaris.
Inkberry, Ilex glabra.
Canadian Juniper, Juniperus canadensis.
Mountain Laurel, Kalmia latifolia.
Holly-leaved Mahonia, Mahonia aquifolium.

Japanese Spurge, Pachysandra terminalii

Dotted Rhododendron, Rhododendron punc*
tatum.

Carolina Rhododendron, Rhododendron caro-
linianum.

Hybrid Rhododendrons, Rhododendron ca-
tawbiense varieties.

Japanese Yew, Taxus cuspidata.

Short-leaved Japanese Yew, Taxus cuspidata
brevifolia.

Canadian Yew, Taxus canadensis.

Sargent's Hemlock, Tsuga Sargentii pendula.

130

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Herbaceous Perennials

Actae, Actse alba.

Monkshood. Aconitum (all species).

Wild Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis.

Bugle, Ajuba reptans.

Herb Spiraea. Astilbe (all species).

Windflower (Anemone), Anemone patens.

Windflower (Anemone), Anemone pennsyl-

vanicum.
Windflower (Anemone), Anemone ranucu-

loides.
Short's Aster, Aster Shortii.
Bletia, Bletia hyacinthina.
Wood Fern, Asplenium (all species).
Spring Beauty, Claytonia virginica.
Lily of the Valley, Convallaria majalis.
Large-leaved Campanula, Campanula lati-

folia raacrantha.
Lady Slipper, Cypripedium acaule.
Silky Lady Slipper, Cypripedium pubescens.
Pink Lady Slipper, Cypripedium spectabile.
Marsh Marigold, Caltha palustris.
Foxglove, Digitalis (all species).
Bleeding Heart, Dicentra spectabilis.
Bleeding Heart, Dicentra eximia.
Erythronium, Erythronium americanum
Plantain Lily, Funkia (all species).
Gentian, Gentiana Andrewsii.
Rough Gentian, Gentiana scabra.
Christmas Rose, Helleborus niger.

Liver Leaf, Hepatica triloba.

Wood Fern, Lastrea.

Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis.

Great Lobelia, Lobelia syphilitica.

Canadian Lily, Lilium canadensis.

Loosestrife, Lysimachia (all species).

Rose Loosestrife, Lythrum (all species).

London Pride, Lychnis chalcedonica.

Rose Campion, Lychnis coronaria.

Forget-Me-Not, Myosotis palustris.

Wood Fern, Osmunda.

Jacob's Ladder, Polemonium (all species).

Solomon's Seal, Polygonatum giganteum.

Fern, Polystichum.

Balloon Flower, Platycodon grandiflora.

Primrose, Primula (all species).

Lungwort, Pulmonaria (all species).

Shortia, Shortia galacifolia.

Indian Pink, Spigelia marilandica.

Goat's Beard, Spiraea (all species).

Blood Root, Sanguinaria canadensis.

Bouncing Bet, Saponaria officinalis.

Fern, Scolopendrium.

Spiderwort, Tradescantia virginica.

Wake Robin, Trillium (all species).

Periwinkle, Vinca minor.

Tufted Pansy, Viola cornuta.

Speedwell, Veronica spicata.

Virginian Speedwell, Veronica virginiana.

PLANTS FOR DRY SOILS

It is not to be presumed that the following plants, because they are recom-
mended for dry soils, will thrive better in extremely dry places than under
more satisfactory conditions. These plants, like all others, need moisture;
but being deep rooting, they can withstand considerable drought. It is there-
fore most advisable, and indeed necessary, to supply fairly good soil at the
time of transplanting, and to give some attention in the way of watering them
until they are firmly established.

Trees

DECIDUOUS

Tree of Heaven, Ailanthus glandulosus.
Box Elder, Acer Negundo.
Gray Birch, Betula populifolia.
Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis.
Wild Cherry, Cerasus serotina.
Honey Locust, Gleditschia triacanthos.
Red Oak, Quercus rubra.
Scarlet Ctek, Quercus coccinea.

Black Locust,

EVERGREEN

Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana.
Black Spruce, Picea nigra.
Red Pine, Pinus resinosa.
Pitch Pine, Pinus rigida.
Jack Pine, Pinus Banksiana.
Scrub Pine, Pinus inops.
Jersey Pine, Pinus virginiana.
White Pine, Pinus Strobus.
Robinia pseudacacia.

PLANTS FOR DRY SOILS

131

Shrubs

DECIDUOUS

Five-leaved Angelica, Aralia pentaphylla.
New Jersey Tea, Ceanothus americanus.
Sweet Fern, Comptonia asplenifolium.
Panicled Dogwood, Cornus paniculata.
Sand Cherry, Cerasus pumila.
Western Sand Cherry, Cerasus pumila Besseyi
Bladder Senna, Colutea arborescens.
St. John's Wort, Hypericum prolificum.
St. John's Wort, Hypericum Kalmianum.
Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides.
Huckleberry, Vaccinium corymbosum.
Bay Berry, Myrica cerifera.
Bush Clover, Lespedeza bicolor.

Bush Clover, Lespedeza Sieboldii.
Beach Plum, Prunus maritima.
Scrub Oak. Quercus illicifolia.
Prairie Rose, Rosa setigera.
Staghorn Sumach, Rhus typhina.
Fragrant Sumach, Rhus aromatica.
Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica.
Mountain Currant, Ribes aureum.
Dwarf Willow, Salix tristis.
Prairie Willow, Salix humilis.
Snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosus.
Coral Berry, Symphoricarpos vulgare.
Wayfaring Tree, Viburnum lantana.

EVERGREEN

Bearberry, Arctostaphylos Urva-ursi.
Holly-leaved Mahonia, Mahonia aquifolia.
Savin Juniper, Juniperus Sabina.
Prostrate Juniper, Juniperus Sabina prostrata.

Common Juniper, Juniperus communis.
Japanese Spurge, Pachysandra terminalis.
Mountain Pine, Pinus montana.
Dwarf Mountain Pine, P. montana Mughus.

Chinese Trailing Juniper, Juniperus chinensis procumbens.

Herbaceous Perennials

SUNNY places

Butterfly Weed, Asclepias tuberosa.

Sand Milkweed, Asclepias amplexicaule.

Sea Thrift, Armeria maritima.

Old Woman, Artemesia abrotanum.

Chamomile, Anthemis tinctoria.

Yarrow (Wooly), Achillea tomentosa.

Yarrow, Achillea Ptarmica, The Pearl.

Indigo, Baptisia australis.

Indigo, Baptisia tinctoria.

Wild Senna, Cassia marilandica.

Snow-in-Summer, Cerastium tomentosum.

Everblooming Spurge, Euphorbia myrsinites.

Flowering Spurge, Euphorbia corollata.

Horse Weed, Erigeron canadensis.

Blue Fleabane, Erigeron acris.

Blue Fescue, Festuca glauca.

Blue Bells, Campanula rotundifolia.

Sweet William, Dianthus barbatus.

Baby's breath, Gypsophila paniculata.

Sunflower, Helianthus (in variety).

Wild Lupine, Lupinus perennis.

Lavender, Lavendula vera.

Variegated Nettle, Lanum album.

Ragged Robin, Lychnis coronaria.

Prickly Pear, Opuntia (all species).

Evening Primrose, ffinothera Youngii.

Moss Pink, Phlox subulata.

Moss Pink, Phlox amcena.

Blazing Star, Liatris scariosa.

Kansas Gay Feather, Liatris pycnostachya

Beard's Tongue, Pentstemon barbatus.

House Leek, Sempervivum (all species).

Stonecrop, Sedum.

Bouncing Bet, Saponaria officinalis.

Meadow Sweet, Spiraea filipendula.

Bugle, Ajuga genevensis.
Columbine, Aquilegia canadensis.
Windflower, Anemone pennsylvanica.
Alpine Aster, Aster alpinus.
Yellow Columbine, Aquilegia chrysantha.
Coral Bells, Heuchera sanguinea.
Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens.
Blazing Star, Liatris elegans.
Sensitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis.

Ebony Spleenwort, Asplenium ebeneum.
Polypody Fern, Polypodium vulgare.
Balloon Flower, Platycodon grandiflorum.
Goldenglow, Rudbeckia triloba.
Goat's Beard, Spiraea aruncus.
Stone Crop, Sedum spectabile.
Betony, Stachys betonica.
Easter Bells, Stellaria Holostea.
Goldenrod, Solidago speciosa.

132 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

PLANTS FOR WET OR MARSHY PLACES

In the following list are found those trees and plants which prefer low,
wet places, like those in which they are found growing in their natural habitats.
If planted in high, dry places they will not thrive.

Trees

DECIDUOUS

Swamp Maple, Acer rubrum.

Speckled Alder, Alnus incana.

River Birch, Betula nigra.

Sweet Gum, Liquidambar styraciflua.

Sour Gum, Nyssa sylvatica.

Sour Gum, Nyssa aquatica.

Larch, Larix leptolepis.

Swamp White Oak, Quercus bicolor.

Pin Oak, Quercus palustris.

Water Oak, Quercus aquatica.

Aspen, Populus tremuloides.

Weeping Willow, Salix babylonica.
Royal Willow, Salix regalis.
Pussy Willow, Salix discolor.
Goat Willow, Salix caprea.
White Willow, Salix alba.
American Elm, Ulmus americana.
Bald Cypress, Taxodium distichum.

EVERGREEN
Balsam Fir, Abies balsamea.
Austrian Pine, Pinus austriaca.
Arborvitse, Thuya occidentalis.

Shrubs

Clammy Azalea, Azalea viscosa.
Rhodora, Azalea canadensis.
Button Bush, Cephalanthus occidentalis.
Allspice, Calycanthus floridus.
Leatherleaf, Chamaedaphne calyculata (ever-
green.)
Red Osier, Cornus stolonifera.
Silky Cornel, Cornus sericea.
Sweet Pepper Bush, Clethra alnifolia.
Winterberry, Ilex verticillata.
Ink Berry, Ilex glabra, (evergreen)
Virginian Willow, Itea virginica.
Sheep Laurel, Kalmiaangustifolia (evergreen).

Spice Bush, Laurus Benzoin.

Blue Honeysuckle, Lonicera coerulea.

Sweet Gale, Myrica Gale.

Red Chokeberry, Pyrus arbutifolia.

Black Chokeberry, Pyrus nigra.

Swamp Rose, Rosa Carolina.

Wild Black Currant, Ribes floridum.

Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis.

Hardback, Spiraea tomentosum.

Queen-of-the-Meadow, Spiraea salicifolium.

Arrowwood, Viburnum dentatum.

Sheepberry, Viburnum lentago.

Withe Rod, Viburnum cassinoides.

Herbaceous Perennials

Sweet Flag, Acorus calamus.

Swamp Milkweed, Asclepias incarnata.

Michaelmas Daisy, Aster ordifolius.

New England Aster, Aster novae-angliae.

New England Aster, Aster umbellatus.

New England Aster, Aster puniceus.

False Chamomile, Boltonia latisquama.

Marsh Marigold, Caltha palustris.

Turtlehead, Chelone glabra.

Water Arum, Calla palustris.

Bunchberry, Cornus canadensis.

Blue Joint Grass, Calamagrostis canadensis.

Snakeroot, Cimicifuga racemosus.

Boneset, Eupatorium perfoliatum.

Joe Pye Weed, Eupatorium purpureum.

Gardener's Garter, Eulalia japonica (and

varieties) .
Marsh Mallow, Hibiscus Moscheutos.
Swamp Pink, Helonias buUata.
Sneeze Weed, Helenium autumnale.
Blue Flag, Iris versicolor.

Slender Flag,

Yellow Flag, Iris pseudacorus.
Siberian Flag, Iris sibirica.
Japanese Iris, Iris Kaempferi.
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis.
Purple Loosestrife, Lythrum salicaria roseum.
Buckbean, Menyanthes trifoliatum.
Blue Buckbean, Menyanthes syphilitica.
Forget-Me-Not, Myosotis palustris.
Golden Club, Orontium aquaticum.
Royal Fern, Osmunda regalis.
False Dragon Head, Physostegia virginica.
Buttercup, Ranunculus septembrionalis.
Creeping Buttercup, Ranunculus repens.
Goldenrod, Solidago canadensis.
Evergreen Goldenrod, Solidago sempervirens.
Georgian Trumpet, Sarracena flava.
Pitcher Plant, Sarracena rubra.
Purple Pitcher Plant, Sarracena purpurea.
Cattails, Typha latifolia.
Narrow-leaf Cattail, Typha angustifolia.
False Hellebore, Veratrum viride.
Iris prismatica.

PLANTS FOR THE SEASHORE 133

PLANTS FOR THE SEASHORE (Exposed)

There is very little natural plant life along the sea front beyond, perhaps, a
few beach grasses. Therefore it must not be expected that the trees and
shrubs here recommended for such a location will flourish without any care.
On the contrary, a good, large hole should be dug for each plant and good soil
substituted for the sand. After being carefully and firmly planted, the trees
must be protected for a season from the winds, and the soil soaked occasionally
during the Summer. When once the plants are established, little trouble will
be experienced in maintaining a good growth.

Trees
deciduous evergreen

Wild Cherry, Cerasus serotina. American Holly. Ilex opaca.

Honey Locust, Gleditschia triacanthos. Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana.

Beach Plum, Prunus maritima. Larch, Larix leptolepsis.

White Poplar, Populus alba. Colorado Spruce, Picea pungens.

Balsam Poplar, Populus balsamifera. ^^.'^jf R'^^^'^'p?'"^ ^"M''^-

■D ^^ wT J r.1 /^ ■ i 1- Pitch Pine, Pinus ngida.

Button Wood Platanus orientalis. g^^j^l, p-^^^ p-^^^ sylvestris.

Scarlet Oak. Quercus coccinea. Austrian Pine, Pinus austriaca.

Jack Pine, Pinus Banksiana.

Shrubs

Groundsel Tree, Baccharis halimifolia. Bayberry, Myrica cerifera.

Sand Cherry, Cerasus pumila. Sumach, Rhus typhina.

Western Sand Cherry, Cerasus pumila Besseyi. Japanese Rugosa, Rosa rugosa.

Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides. Wild Rose, Rosa lucida.

Double Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata Prairie Rose, Rosa setigera.

grandiflora. Buffalo Berry, Shepherdia argentea.

Common Privet, Ligustrum vulgare. Tamarisk, Tamarix africana.
Calif ornian Privet. Ligustrum ovalifolium.

PLANTS FOR BINDING AND COVERING
SOIL ON STEEP BANKS

When planting on a steep bank, the practical side of the operation, that
of binding the soil to prevent washing, should be the chief aim. With this in
mind the planting must be carefully done, substituting good soil where each
shrub is placed, and leaving a considerable depression, so that at least some
water will be caught for the benefit of the roots. Good results are attained
by sowing seed of the following plants, as well as planting them; and the soil
can be retained during the germination period by pegging wire fencing down
over it. In any event close attention should be paid to the bank for the
first year or two, and any damage caused by washing should be remedied
immediately it is discovered.

Shrubs

Japanese Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii. Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis.

Five-leaved Angelica, Aralia pentaphylla. Hardback, Spiraea tomentosa.

Sweet Fern, Comptonia asplenlfolia. Purple Osier, Salix purpurea.

Bayberry, Myrica cerifera. Snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosus.

Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica. Coral Berry, Symphoricarpos vulgare.

Smooth Sumach, Rhus glabra. Osage Orange, Toxylon pomiferum.

Staghorn Sumach, Rhus typhina. Yellow Root, Xanthoxylon americanum.

Prairie Rose, Rosa setigera Japanese Rose, Rosa rugosa.
Fragrant Sumach, Rhus aromatica.

134 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Vines

Bittersweet, Celastrus scandens. Memorial Rose, Rosa Wichuraiana.

Japanese Honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica. Wild Rose, Rosa lucida.

Matrimony Vine, Lycium halimifolia. Wild Rose, Rosa nitida.

Chinese Matrimony Vine, Lycium chinense.

PLANTS FOR WINDBREAKS AND SCREENS

In order to break the sweep of high winds it is necessary to plant closely,
and to use such trees and shrubs as leaf out early in Spring and retain their
foliage until late Autumn. The individual value of any tree or shrub as a
thing of beauty must not be considered, so that the various kinds used should
be allowed to crowd each other with their branches intermingling. The trees
will, of course, be the main factor in sheltering, but it will often be found
necessary to clothe the base of trees with flowering shrubs. If the planting
is to shelter a refined lawn area, a better class of shrubs can be used on the
inside of the belt, which should be composed mainly of the following plants:

Trees
deciduous evergreen

Red Maple, Acer rubrum. Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana.

Sugar Maple, Acer saccharinum. Norway Spruce, Picea excelsa.

Hornbeam, Carpinus caroliniana. White Spruce, Picea alba.

American Beech, Fagus ferruginea. White Pine, Pinus Strobus.

White Oak, Quercus alba. Red Pine, Pinus resinosa.

Carolina Poplar, Populus caroliniana. Pitch Pine, Pinus rigida.

Lombardy Poplar, Populus fastigiata. Austrian Pine, Pinus austnaca.

While Willow, Salix alba. Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis.

Shrubs

Tartarian Maple, Acer tatarica. Common Privet, Ligustrum vulgare.

Red-twigged Dogwood, Cornus alba. Bush Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica.

Hazel, Corylus americana. Bush Honeysuckle, Lonicera bella albida.

Russian Olive, Elaeagnus angustifolia. Bush Honeysuckle, Lonicera Maackii.

Golden Bell, Forsythia intermedia. Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica.
Green-bark Golden Bell, Forsythia viridissima Sheepberry, Viburnum lentago.

Ibota Privet, Ligustrum Ibota. Arrowwood, Viburnum dentatum.

PLANTS FOR FORMAL HEDGES

All plants or trees selected for this purpose must, of necessity, be of a more
or less twiggy nature with an abundance of branches, and also be amenable
to close shearing. If the hedge is to be a barrier, the various thorny subjects
will best answer the purpose, while for an ornamental hedge, the Beech,
Hornbeam or any of the evergreens are more suitable. Whatever is used, the
pruning should be severe for a year or so, in order to force a good growth
from the ground up. The last shearing should be done not later than August
or early September, so that there will be little or no young growth to withstand
the following Winter. The distance of planting will depend upon the material
used and the aim in view. It is, however, generally advisable to use smaller
plants and set them close together, rather than to use larger plants at a greater
distance. No matter what size is used, the plants should be allowed to touch,
and if a broad hedge is desired, plant a double row, setting the plants in the
second row alternately with those in the first.

Tall — Deciduous

Hornbeam (European), Carpinus betulus. Honey Locust, Gleditschia triacanthos.

Cockspur Thorn, Crataegus Crus-galli. Black Thorn, Prunus spinosa.

English Hawthorn, Crataegus Oxyacantha. Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica.

European Beech, Fagus sylvatica. Osage Orange, Toxylon pomiferum.

PLANTS FOR FORMAL HEDGES 135

Tall— Evergreen Low— Deciduous

Norway Spruce, Picea excelsa. Japanese Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii.

Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis. Small-leaved Pea Tree, Caragana microphylla .

Siberian Arborvitse, Thuya sibirica. Japanese Quince, Cydonia japonica.

Japanese Yew Tree, Taxus cuspidata capitata. Kegel's Privet, Ligustrum Regelianum.
Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis. Amoor River Privet, Ligustrum amurensis.

Californian Privet, Ligustrum ovalifolium.

Low — Evergreen

Boxwood, Buxus sempervirens. Japanese Bush Yew, Taxus cuspidata.

Firethorn, Crataegus pyracantha. Dwarf Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis gracilis.

{>Tarf".lrtr4i'Vhuyroccidentalis com- Compact Hemlock. Tsuga canadensis com-

pacta. Pa*=t=*-

Rosenthal's Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis Short-leaved Hemlock, Tsuga diversifolia.

Rosenthalii.

DWARF HEDGE PLANTS FOR EDGING

Sometimes it is desirable to emphasize a line or design, but at the same
time not interfere with the general view over the lawn, as in the case of the
old-fashioned Box-bordered walks. The plants used for this purpose must
naturally be of a low, compact habit, with good foliage. The Privets are
included because they can be continually clipped very severely without detri-
ment to the appearance of the hedge when old; moreover this persistent prun-
ing tends to stunt their natural vigorous growth, with the result that they
finally keep within bounds. This also pertains to other plants that will be
recognized as ordinarily larger bushes.

deciduous evergreen

Japanese Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii. Evergreen Azalea, Azalea amcena.

Box Barberry, Berberis buxifolia. ^^^rf Boxwood, Buxus suffruticosa. .

„ , „ . „ . ... Dwarf Eastern Arborvitae, Biota onentahs

Dwarf Deutzia, Deutzia gracilis. compacta nana.

Fortune's Spiraea, Spiraea callosa. Firethorn, Crataegus pyracantha.

Fortune's Spirsa, Spirsa callosa alba. Small-leaved Japanese Holly. Ilex crenata

, ^ . \- . . ■ „, microphylla.

Waterer s Spiraea. Spiraa Anthony Waterer. Dwarf Japanese Yew, Taxus cuspidata brevi-
Amoor River Privet, Ligustrum amurensis. folia.

Kegel's Privet, Ligustrum Regelianum. ^warf Golden Yew Taxus tardiva aur^.

^ . „ , V. u ,r-!^ ^ , Dwarf Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis, Tom

Dwarf Bush Cranberry. Viburnum Opulus Thumb.

nanum. Dwarf Arborvitae. Thuya occidentalis. Little

Gem.
Compact Japanese Cypress, Retinispora ob-
tusa compacta.

PLANTS FOR NATURAL OR INFORMAL HEDGES

Although no pruning (except the removal of dead and very old wood)
will be found necessary on the shrubs, it is best to "top" (cut off the main
stem of) the trees before they have reached the desired height. By so doing
the side branches will be strengthened, and a hedge suitable for dividing
large areas obtained. Being set more closely together than in the ordinary
planting, the shrubs will need water more often than is generally realized, and
the soil must not be heaped up at the base — rather let there be a slight de-
pression in which the water will collect. The shrubs may be set about one and
a half to three feet apart, and in the case of Lilacs a little more space will allow
better development for flowering.

Tall — Deciduous

Cockspur Thorn, Crataegus Crus-galli. Lilac, Syringa vulgaris.

European Beech. Fagus sylvatica. Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica.

Honey Locust, Gleditschia triacanthos. Carolina Buckthorn, Rhamnus caroliniana.

Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica. Black Thorn, Prunus spinosa.

136

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

European Hornbeam, Carpinus betulus.
Wing Bark, Euonymus alatus.
Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus.
Mock Orange, Philadelphus coronarius.
Deutzia, Deutzia, Pride of Rochester.
Arrowwood, Viburnum dentatum.
Weigela, Weigela (in variety).

Tall — Evergreen

Plumed Cypress, Retinispora plumosa.
Pea-fruited Cypress, Retinispora pisifera.
Japanese Yew Tree, Taxus cuspidata capitata.
Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis.
Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis.

Low — Deciduous

Japanese Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii.
Japanese Quince, Cydonia japonica
Regel's Privet, Ligustrum Regelianum.
Japanese Rose, Rosa rugosa.
Vanhouttei's Spiraea, Spiraea Vanhouttei.
Bridal Wreath, Spiraea prunifolia fl. pi.
Lace Bush, Stephanandra flexuosa.
Snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosus.
Coral Berry, Symphoricarpos vulgare.
Lemoine's Mock Orange, Philadelphus Le-

moinei.
Waterer's Spiraea, Spiraea Anthony Waterer.
Dwarf Deutzia, Deutzia gracilis.

Low — Evergreen
Any of the plants named in the list for low, formal hedges (page 135) will
make an excellent informal hedge if allowed to grow naturally, with just
an occasional pruning.

PLANTS FOR SKY-LINE EFFECTS

Unless the"skyline"orcontour of the shrubbery border is varied, the result
is liable to be flat and uninteresting, especially when viewed from a little dis-
tance. Therefore, in addition to color and leaf form, the habits of plant
material must be considered with a view to contrast or quiet harmony. For
instance, the vertical branches of the Lombardy Poplar make a striking con-
trast to the horizontal growth of the Thorns. Between these two extremes there
are many forms, offering a wide scope for various combinations.

Columnar or Pyramidal Trees

deciduous

Upright Sugar Maple, Acer saccharum monu-

mentale.
Pyramidal White Birch, Betula alba fastigiata.
Upright Hornbeam, Carpinus betulus col-

umnare.
Maiden Hair Tree (upright form). Ginkgo

biloba fastigiata.
Lombardy Poplar, Populus nigra fastigiata.
Bolle's Poplar, Populus Bolleana.
Pyramidal Oak, Quercus fastigiata.

Bald Cypress, Taxodium distichum.
Wheatley's Elm, Ulmus scabra Wheatleyi.

evergreen

Nikko Fir, Abies brachyphylla.

Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana.

Upright Spruce, Picea excelsa pyramidalis.

Pyramidal Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis

pyramidalis.
American Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis.
Eastern Arborvitae, Biota orientalis.
Chinese Juniper, Juniperus chinensis.

Rugged or Picturesque Trees

deciduous

Black Oak, Quercus velutina.
Kentucky Coffee Tree, Gymnocladus cana-
densis.
Hickory, Carya ovata.
Cockspur Thorn, Crataegus Crus-galli.
Varnish Tree, Kcelreuteria paniculata.
Sassafras, Sassafras officinale.

Sour Gum, Nyssa sylvatica.
Black Walnut, Juglans nigra.

EVERGREEN
Scotch Pine, Pinus sylvestris.
Jack Pine, Pinus Banksiana.
Pitch Line, Pinus rigida.
Jersey Pine, Pinus virginiana.
Bull Pine, Pinus ponderosa.

Pendulous or Weeping Trees

deciduous

Wier's Cut-leaf Maple, Acer dasycarpum

laciniatum.
Cut-leaf Weeping Birch, Betula alba laciniata

pendula.
Japanese Weeping Cherry, Cerasus japonica

pendula.

Weeping Cherry, Cerasus serotina pendula.
Weeping Ash, Fraxinus rotundifolia pend ula.
Weeping Beech, Fagus sylvatica pendula.
Weeping Purple Beech, Fagus sylvatica pur-
purea pendula.
Weeping Larch, Larix leptolepis pend ula.

PLANTS FOR SKY-LINE EFFECTS

137

DECIDUOUS — continued

Weeping Mulberry, Morus alba pendula.

Weeping Willow, Salix babylonica.

Wisconsin Weeping Willow, Salix dolorosa.

Thurlow's Weeping Willow, Salix elegantis-
sima.

Weeping Pagoda Tree, Sophora japonica pen-
dula.

Camperdown Elm, Ulmus montana pendula.

Kilmarnock Willow, Salix caprea pendula.

EVERGREEN
Weeping Spruce, Picea excelsa pendula.
Weeping Blue Spruce, Picea pungens, Kos-

teri pendula.
Thread-branch Cypress, Retinispora filifera

pendula.
Sargent's Weeping Hemlock, Tsuga Sargentii

pendula.
Weeping Virginian Cedar, Juniperus virgini-

ana pendula.

Formal "Standard" Trees

These are most useful for accentuating points in a formal garden, or for
lining a drive where the space is too small for large trees. In the case of the
Catalpa, the branches or "head" should be pruned severely to encourage a
strong, even growth each year, but this is not necessary with the Maple or
Elm. Each of these trees is grafted on a stem of another variety, so any shoots
coming from the base or on the stem must be cut off close to leave a clean,
straight trunk.

Globe-headed Maple, Acer platanoides glo- Bunge's Catalpa (wrongly called Umbrella
bosum. Tree), Catalpa Bungei.

Globe-headed Elm, Ulmus foliacea umbraculifera.

BERRY-BEARING TREES AND SHRUBS

The ornamental or landscape value of a shrub is greatly enhanced if it has
colored fruits. Often, although the flower will be quite inconspicuous, the
fruits are so highly colored that they are really preferable to flowers, as, gen-
erally speaking, they will last much longer. Furthermore, the garden con-
taining berry-bearing shrubs will be the center of attraction for all kinds of
birds, which add life and interest to any place. Those kinds of which the
fruit is particularly preferred by birds as food are marked with an asterisk (*).

Red Berries

♦Common Barberry, Berberis vulgaris.
♦Japanese Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii.
♦Bird Cherry, Cerasus pennsylvanica.
♦Flowering Dogwood, Cornus florida.
♦Cornelian Cherry, Cornus mas.
♦Washington Thorn, Crataegus cordata.
♦Cockspur Thorn, Crataegus Crus-galli.
♦Scarlet Thorn, Crataegus coccinea.
♦Hawthorn, Crataegus nitida.
♦Hawthorn, Crataegus punctata.
♦English Hawthorn, Crataegus Oxyacantha.

Firethorn, Crataegus Pyracantha.
♦Scarlet Haw, Crataegus mollis.

Rose Box, Cotoneaster horizontalis.

Rose Box, Cotoneaster disticha.

Rose Box, Cotoneaster divaricata.

Rose Box, Cotoneaster hupehensis.

Rose Box, Cotoneaster buUata.
♦Wing-bark Spindle Tree, Euonymus alatus.
♦European Spindle Tree, Euonymus europaeus

♦Chinese Spindle Tree, Euonymus Bungeana.
♦Winterberry, Ilex verticillata.
♦Morrow's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Morrowii.
♦Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica.
♦Ruprecht's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Ru-

prechtiana.
♦Fly Honeysuckle, Lonicera xylosteum.
♦Maack's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Maackli.

Mountain Holly, Nemopanthus canadensis.
♦Sweet Briar, Rosa rubiginosa.
♦Japanese Rose, Rosa rugosa.
♦Meadow Rose, Rosa blanda.
♦Mountain Ash (orange red), Sorbus aucu-

paria.
♦European Mountain Ash, Sorbus americana.
♦Red-fruited Elderberry, Sambucus rac

mosus.
♦High Bush Cranberry, Viburnum Opulus.
♦Japanese Cranberry, Viburnum dilatatum.
♦Japanese Cranberry, Viburnum americanum

138 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

White Berries

White-fruited Dogwood, Cornuscandidissima. Common Red Osier, Cornus stolonifera.
Rough-leaved Cornel, Cornus rugosus. Red-twigged Dogwood, Cornus alba.

♦Snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosus.

Yellow Fruits

♦Goumi, Elaeagnus longipes. *Yellow-fruited Tartarian Honeysuckle, Loni-

♦Oleaster, Elaeagnus angustifolia. cera tatarica fructo lutea.

♦Buffalo Berry, Shepherdia argentea. *Small-flowered Honeysuckle, Lonicera minu-

Sea Buckthorn, Hipphophae rhamnoides. tiflora.

♦Yellow-fruited Honeysuckle, Lonicera Ru- Yellow-fruited Privet, Ligustrum vulgaris

prechtiana xanthocarpum. leucocarpum.

♦Yellow-fruited Viburnum, Viburnum Opulus xanthocarpum.

Black Fruits

Hercules' Club, Aralia spinosa. White Globe Flower, Rhodotypos kerrioides.

Barberry, Berberis Gagnepaineii. ♦Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis.

Barberry, Berberis verruculosa. ♦Hairy Viburnum, Viburnum pubescens.

Rose Box, Cotoneaster foveolata. Maple-leaved Viburnum, Viburnum aceri-

Rose Box, Cotoneaster moupinensis. folium.

Inkberry, Ilex glabra. ♦Black Haw, Viburnum prunifolium.

Japanese Holly, Ilex crenata. ♦Hobble Bush, Viburnum alnifolium.

Honeysuckle, Lonicera involucrata. Siebold's Viburnum, Viburnum Sieboldii.

♦Common Privet, Ligustrum vulgare. Single Japanese Snowball, Viburnum pli-

Chinese Cork Tree, Phellodendron amurense. catum.

♦Black Chokeberry, Pyrus nigra. ♦Wayfaring Tree, Viburnum lantana.
♦Buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica.

Deep Blue-Black Fruits Blue Fruits

Holly-leaved Mahonia, Mahonia aquifolia. Silky Cornel, Cornus sericea.

Creeping Mahonia, M. aquifolium repens. Beauty Fruit (mauve fruits), Callicarpa

♦Blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum. purpurea.

♦Low Blueberry, Vaccinium pennsylvanicum. Honeysuckle, Lonicera ccErulea.

♦Arrowwood, Viburnum dentatum. Honeysuckle, Lonicera villosa.

♦Witherod, Viburnum cassinoides. Turquoise Berry (a vine), Symplocos cratae-

♦Sheepberry, Viburnum lentago. goides.

Sweet Leaf (a vine), Ampelopsis versicolor.

PLANTS ATTRACTIVE TO BIRDS

In addition to those with brightly colored fruits, there are many plants
that bear seeds which seem to be especially palatable to birds. Certain trees
and shrubs are also preferred as nesting sites, therefore the following list
should be referred to in conjunction with that of the berried plants.

DFTTnTTniT'; Mountain Currant, Ribes alpinum.

c-u . „ u . l-^^^l"UUUb Wild Grape, Vitis Labrusca.

Shad Bush, Amelanchier canadensis. White Grape, Vitis aestivalis.

Cherry Birch, Betula lenta. Weigela, Weigela amabilis.

Mahaleb Cherry, Cerasus Mahaleb. Coral Berry, Symphoricarpos vulgare.

European Bird Cherry, Cerasus padus. American Elm, Ulmus americana.

Nettle Tree, Celtis occidentahs. Shining Sumach, Rhus copallina.
Shrubby St. John s Wort, Hypericum prolin-

Spke™Bush, Laurus Benzoin. EVERGREEN

Japanese Larch, Larix Kaempferi. Common Juniper, Juniperus communis.

Mulberry (White), Morus alba. Irish Juniper, Juniperus hibernica.

Mulberry (Red), Morus rubra. Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana.

Bayberry, Myrica cerifera. Austrian Pine, Pinus austriaca.
Crap Apple, Malus baccata and floribunda. White Pine, Pinus Strobus.

Sour Gum, Nyssa sylvatica. Red Pine, Pinus resinosa.

Smooth Sumach, Rhus glabra. Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis.

Staghorn Sumach, Rhus typhina. Canadian Yew, Taxus canadensis.

PLANTS WITH VARIEGATED FOLIAGE

139

TREES AND SHRUBS WITH VARIEGATED
OR COLORED FOLIAGE

Trees

Schwedler's Maple, Acer platanoides Schwed-

leri.
Purple-leaved Birch, Betula alba atropur-

purea.
Purple or Copper Beech, Fagus sylvatica

purpurea.
Purple-leaved Plum, Prunus Pissardii.
Golden Elm, Ulmus americana aurea.

Shrubs

Variegated Japanese Quince, Cydonia Maulei

tricolor.
Purple Barberry, Berberis vulgaris purpurea.
Variegated Dogwood, Cornus alba variegata.
Spaeth's Dogwood, Cornus alba Spaethii.
Purple Hazel, Corylus avellana purpurea.

Goumi, Elaeagnus longipes.

Silver Thorn, Elaeagnus argentea.

Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides.

Variegated Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus
variegata.

Variegated Globe Flower, Kerria japonica
variegata.

Golden Privet, Ligustrum ovalifolium aureum.

Golden Mock Orange, Philadelphus coronarius
aureus.

Golden Hop Tree, Ptelea trifoliata aurea.

Golden Elder, Sambucus nigra aurea.

Golden Ninebark, Sambucus opulifolia aurea.

Variegated Weigela, Weigela hybrida varie-
gata.

Japanese Maple, Acer japonicum aureum.

Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum atropur-
pureum.

Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum maculatum

SMALL-FLOWERING TREES FOR LAWN
SPECIMENS

Sometimes it is desirable to break a view without doing so too harshly.
By using any of the following trees the object is achieved and, being beautiful
in themselves, the subjects add considerable interest to the general planting.
Another use is to plant them among the shrubs in the border, in this way se-
curing height and privacy and varying the sky line of the border.
Flowering Dogwood, Cornus florida.
Pink Dogwood, Cornus florida rubra.
White Fringe, Chionanthus virginicus.

Hawthorn, Cratsegus Oxycantha.

Paul's Scarlet Thorn, Crataegus Oxycantha

Paulii.
White Hawthorn, Crataegus Oxycantha alba.
Silver Bell, Halesia tetraptera.
Flowering Crab Apple, Pyrus floribunda.
Chinese Crab, Pyrus spectabile.
Parkman's Crab, Pyrus Parkmannii.
Bechtel's Crab, Pyrus ioensis Bechtelii.
Scented Crab, Pyrus coronarius.

Pearl Blush, Exochorda grandiflora.

Japanese Cherry, Cerasus serrulata in variety.
Flowering Plum (grafted on stem), Prunus

triloba.
Flowering Peach, Prunus persica fl. pi.
Sorrel Tree, Oxydendron arboreum.
Soulange's Magnolia, Magnolia Soulangeana.
Japanese Magnolia, Magnolia Kobus.
Chinese Tree Lilac, Syringa pekinensis.
Japanese Tree Lilac, Syringa japonica.
Japanese Storax, Styrax japonica.
Umbrella Tree, Magnolia tripetala.
Large-leaved Magnolia, Magnolia macro-

phylla.

PLANTS FOR

Trees

Red Maple, Acer rubrum.
Sugar Maple, Acer saccharum.
Washington Thorn, Crataegus cordata.
American Beech, Fagus ferruginea.
Sweet Gum, Liquidambar styraciflua.
Tulip Tree, Liriodendron tulipifera.
Sour Gum, Nyssa sylvatica.
Scarlet Oak, Quercus coccinea.
White Oak, Quercus alba.
Black Oak, Quercus velutina.
Red Oak, Quercus rubra.
Pin Oak, Quercus palustris.
Chestnut Oak, Quercus Prinus.
Sassafras, Sassafras officinalis.
Flowering Dogwood, Cornus florida.

AUTUMN COLORING

Shrubs

Mountain Maple, Acer ginnala.
Japanese Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii.
Panicled Dogwood, Cornus paniculata.
Alternate-leaved Dogwood, Cornus alterni-

folia.
Spindle Tree, Euonymus americana.
Burning Bush, Euonymus atropurpureus.
Wing-bark Spindle Tree, Euonymus alatus.
Sorrel Tree, Oxydedron arboreum.
Chokeberry, Pyrus nigra.
Red Chokeberry, Pyrus arbutifolius.
Smooth Sumach, Rhus copallina.
Fragrant Sumach, Rhus aromatica.
Shining Sumach, Rhus glabra.
Staghorn Sumach, Rhus typhina.
Flowering Currant, Ribes aureum.
Blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum.
Low Blueberry, Vaccinium pennsylvanicum.
Viburnums, Viburnum (all species).

140 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Vines

Bittersweet, Celastrus scandens. Meadow Rose, Rosa blanda.

Oriental Bittersweet, Celastrus orbiculatus. Glory Vine, Vitis Coignetise.

Virginian Creeper, Ampelopsis quinquefolia. Wild Grape, Vitis Labrusca.

Boston Ivy, Ampelopsis Veitchii. Wild Grape, Vitis aestivalis.

Wild Rose, Rosa lucida.

RAPID GROWING PLANT MATERIALS

Unfortunately the desire for immediate shade is allowed to outweigh the
very important question of permanency. Whenever quick growing trees are
planted, they should be supplemented with the slower growing but more
permanent kinds. It may be generally stated that all quick growing trees
have soft wood and are therefore easily broken during storms; furthermore,
they are comparatively short lived. Still another objection is that borers are
more apt to attack them than the hardwoods. On the other hand, their
value in supplying shade in a short time must not be underestimated, and if
hardwoods are planted at the same time, the fast growing trees will have
served their purpose by the time the permanent kinds are serviceable as shade
specimens; the former can then be cut down to allow room for the perfect
development of the others.

Trees

DECIDUOUS Lombardy Poplar, Populus nigra fastigiata.
Weeping Willow, Salix babylonica.

Box Elder, Acer Negundo. White Willow, Salix alba.

Tree of Heaven, Ailanthus glandulosus. Royal Willow, Salix regalis.
Silver Maple, Acer dasycarpum.

Wild Cherry, Cerasus serotina. „..

Catalpa (Western), Catalpa speciosa. ^ Vb.KOKt,b.iM

Tulip Tree, Liriodendron tulipifera. Norway Spruce, Picea excelsa.

Carolina Poplar, Populus caroliniana. Servian Spruce, Picea Omorika.

Cottonwood, Populus deltoides. Scotch Pine, Pinus sylvestris.

Shrubs

Red-twigged Dogwood, Cornus alba. Rosemary Willow, Salix rosmarinifolia.

Red Osier, Cornus stolonifera. Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica.

Purple Osier, Salix purpurea. Ninebark, Spiraa opulifolia.

Pussy Willow, Salix discolor. Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis.

Goat Willow, Salix caprea. Deutzia, Deutzia, Pride of Rochester.

Mock Orange, Philadelphus coronarius.

PLANTS WITH COLORED BARK 141

TREES AND SHRUBS WITH DISTINCTIVE
COLORED BARK

During the Winter when all deciduous trees and shrubs are devoid of foli-
age, any color in the garden is indeed a welcome addition. Some fine effects
can be obtained by using some of the following items. A most striking instance
is the planting of a mass of Siberian Dogwood with the yellow-stemmed
Willow or Dogwood; against a carpet of snow the effect is indeed worth the
effort. Another shrub of Winter interest is the Wing-bark Euonymus, with
its conspicuous corky ridges along the branches, and sometimes an occasional
cluster of orange and red fruit that the birds have overlooked.

Trees Shrubs

Striped-bark Maple, Acer pennsylvanicum. Siberian Dogwood, Cornus alba sibirica.

Cherry Birch, Betula nigra. Green-stemmed Dogwood, C. alba viridissima.

Do„o, n.v^i, D„^„i^ -f „ Rsd Osier, Cornus stolonifera.

Paper Birch, Betula papyrifera. Yellow-stemmed Dogwood. Cornus stoloni-
White Birch, Betula alba. fera flaviramea.

Aspen, Populus tremuloides. Yellow Globe Flower, Kerria japonica.

Sweet Gum (corky bark). Liquidambar Sty- ^'fstaaf"'""'^ Goldenbell. Forsythia virid-

Red-leaved Rose, Rosa rubrifolia.

raciflua.
Golden-bark Willow. Salix vitellina aurea. Native Rose, Rosa lucida.

Bronze-bark Willow, Salix vitellina britzensis. Native Rose, Rosa nitida.
Crimean Linden. Tilia euchlora. osissimr ^°"'"^'"^"'='^ '^°'"'^' ^°'^ "P'""

Yellow-bark Linden. Tilia platyphyllos aurea Wing-bark Euonymus (corky bark), Euony-
mus alatus.

PLANTS FOR WITHSTANDING CITY
CONDITIONS

It must not be understood that any plants or trees prefer the adverse con-
ditions that are prevalent in large cities. Indeed it is only the most vigorous
and adaptable kinds that will live under these conditions, which include lack of
water, poor soil, and a prevalence of dust, smoke and injurious gases. With
these facts in mind it will at once be realized that any planting in the city must
be done carefully and thoroughly. Dig a large hole for every plant, supply the
best soil that can be obtained and some well rotted manure, and preserve every
root. The foliage can be washed off occasionally by playing a good force of
water over the plants; and be on the lookout for insects and diseases. In
short, everything that can be, should be done to overcome or mitigate the
adverse conditions under which the city planting must live.

Trees — Deciduous

Norway Maple, Acer platanoides. Green Ash, Fraxinus viridis.

Tree of Heaven, Ailanthus glandulosus. Maidenhair Tree, Ginkgo biloba.

Horse Chestnut, ^sculus Hippocastanum. Button Ball, Platanus orientalis.

Cockspur Thorn, Crataegus Crus-galli. White Willow, Salix alba.

English Hawthorn, Crataegus Oxycantha. Pin Oak, Quercus palustris.

Hackberry, Nettle Tree, Celtis occidentalis. European Linden, Tilia europaea.

White Ash. Fraxinus americana. Silver Linden. Tilia tomentosa.

Trees — Evergreens

Nikko Fir, Abies brachyphylla. Scotch Pine, Pinus sylvestris.

Silver Fir, Abies concolor. Austrian Pine, Pinus austriaca.

Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana. Japanese Tree Yew, Taxus cuspidata capitata.

Colorado Spruce, Picea pungens. Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis.

Blue Spruce, Picea pungens Kosteri. Sitka Cypress. Thuya Standishii.

142

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Deciduous Shrubs

Five-leaved Angelica, Aralia pentaphylla.
Hercules' Club, Aralia spinosa.
Japanese Barberry. Berberis Thunbergii.
Japanese Quince, Cydonia japonica.
Siberian Dogwood, Cornus alba sibirica.
Red Osier, Cornus stolonifera.
Yellow Osier, Cornus stolonifera flaviramea.
Japanese Red Bud, Cercis japonica.
Rough-leaved Deutzia, Deutzia scabra.
Dwarf Deutzia, Deutzia gracilis.
Deutzia, Deutzia Pride of Rochester.
Lemoine's Deutzia, Deutzia Lemoinei.
American Spindle Tree, Euonymus amencana.
Golden Bell, Forsythia intermedia.
Fortune's Golden Bell, Forsythia Fortunei.
Drooping Golden Bell, Forsythia suspensa.
Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus.
Single Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata.
Double Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata

grandiflora.
Yellow Globe Flower, Kerria japonica.
Amoor River Privet, Ligustrum amurensis.
Californian Privet, Ligustrum ovalifolium.

Regel's Privet, Ligustrum Ibota Regelianura.
Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lonicera tatarica.
White Globe Flower, Rhodotypos kerrioides.
Smoke Bush, Rhus cotinus.
Smooth Sumach, Rhus glabra.
Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis.
Cut-leaf Elderberry, Sambucus canadensis

laciniata.
Waterer's Spiraea, Spiraea Anthony Waterer.
Vanhoutte's Spiraea, Spiraea Vanhouttei.
Ninebark, Spiraea opulifolia.
Snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosus.
Coral Berry, Symphoricarpos vulgare.
Tamarisk, Tamarix africana (and others).
Common Lilac, Syringa vulgaris.
Withe Rod, Viburnum cassinoides.
Wayfaring Tree, Viburnum lantana.
Sheepberry, Viburnum lentago.
Highbush Cranberry, Viburnum Opulus.
Siebold's Viburnum, Viburnum Sieboldii.
Japanese Snowball, Viburnum tomentosum

plicatum.
Weigelas, Weigela in variety.

Shrubs —

Japanese Holly, Ilex crenata.

Pfitzer's Juniper, Juniperus Pfitzenana.

Trailing Chinese Juniper, Juniperus chinensis

procumbens.
Savin Juniper, Juniperus Sabina. _

Gray Carpet Juniper, Juniperus tamansci-

folia. ...

Globe Juniper, Juniperus virginiana globosa.
Swiss Mountain Pine, Pinus montana.
Dwarf Mountain Pine, P. montana Mughus.

Evergreen

Thread-branched Cypress, Retinispora filifera.

Japanese Yew, Taxus cuspidata.

Dwarf Japanese Yew. Taxus cuspidata brevi-

folia.
Dwarf English Yew, Taxus baccata repandens.
Globe Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis globosa.
Tom Thumb Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis,

Tom Thumb.
Rosenthal's Arborvitae, Thuya Rosenthalli.
Siberian Arborvitae, Thuya sibirica.

STREET OR AVENUE TREES

Just as in the case of city planting, every possible precaution should be
taken when planting trees on the sidewalk, to give them the best soil available,
that the chances of success may be increased. The average street is approxi-
mately seventy-five feet between buildings, and the trees should be planted
from thirty-five feet to forty feet apart, alternating on each side of the road.
On wide streets, which afford one hundred feet or more between buildings,
this method of planting is optional, but the street is more evenly shaded if
the trees are alternated. On the wider streets, forty-five feet or even fifty
feet is not too much to allow between the trees. Where wires are strung along
the street, trees that have a long, clean bole, such as the Elm, and some Oaks,
should be used, that is, such as will not be damaged by, nor interfere with, the
wires.

Average Streets (75 feet wide)

Norway Maple, Acer platanoides.
Pin Oak, Quercus palustris.
Hackberry, Celtis occidentalis.
Green Ash, Fraxinus viridis.
Maidenhair Tree, Ginkgo biloba.
Button Ball, Platanus orientalis.
Sweet Gum, Liquidambar.
European Linden, Tilia europsea.

Wide Streets (90 feet or more)

Norway Maple, Acer platanoides.
Sugar Maple, Acer saccharum.
Button Ball, Platanus orientalis.
Red Oak, Quercus rubra.
Maidenhair Tree, Ginkgo biloba.
Silver Linden, Tilia tomentosa.
American Elm, Ulmus americana.
Scotch Elm, UJmus montana.

PLANTS FOR FOUNDATION PLANTINGS

143

PLANTS SUITABLE FOR FOUNDATION PLANT-
INGS UNDER GENERAL CONDITIONS

In selecting shrubs for base planting, the main consideration should be
the foliage effect, as well as the general character of growth. These shrubs
should be well furnished with graceful branches, rather than a few thick stems.
Fortunately many such shrubs also produce beautiful flowers so that a founda-
tion can be made effective indeed. Should it be necessary to plant deeply
(that is, more than one row) it is important that the shrubs that are taller
at maturity should be placed in the background; to facilitate selection
the following list is tabulated according to the size of the fully grown shrubs.
For Winter effect the evergreens are very desirable, but it is not at all neces-
sary to have a solid banking of them. In fact a planting consisting of a combina-
tion of flowering shrubs and evergreens is, in the majority of cases, to be pre-
ferred. This is because evergreens are inclined to be too stiff and formal,
whereas deciduous flowering shrubs have informal outlines, which soften the
sharp lines of the house, which is the real object of such a planting.

Large Shrubs (For background)

DECIDUOUS

Allspice, Calycanthus floridus.
Deutzia, Deutzia Pride of Rochester.
Witch Hazel, Hamamelis virginiana.
Scentless Mock Orange, Philadelphus ino-
dorous.
Common Privet, Ligustrum vulgaris.
Persian Lilac, Syringa persica.
Arrowwood, Viburnum dentatum.
Wayfaring Tree, Viburnum lantanum.
Sheepberry, Viburnum lentago.
Siebold's Viburnum, Viburnum Sieboldii.
Golden Bell, Forsythia intermedia.
Golden Bell, Forsythia viridissima.

Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus syriacus.
Japanese Snowball, Viburnum tomentosum
plicatum.

EVERGREEN

Chinese Juniper, Juniperus chinensis.

Red Cedar, Juniperus virginiana.

Blue Virginian Cedar, Juniperus virginiana

glauca.
Schott's Cedar, Juniperus virginiana Schottii.
Swiss Stone Pine, Pinus Cembra.
Thread-branched Cypress, Retinispora fili-

fera.
Japanese Yew Tree, Taxus cuspidata capitata.
American Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis.
Sitka Cypress, Thuya Standishii.

Medium Sized Shrubs

DECIDUOUS

Japanese Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii.
Variegated Dogwood, Cornus alba variegata.
Globe Flower, Kerria japonica.
Lemoine's Deutzia, Deutzia Lemoinei.
Morrow's Honeysuckle, Lonicera Morrowii.
White Globe Flower, Rhodotypos kerrioides
Golden Mock Orange, Philadelphus coronarius

aureus.
Fine-leaved Spiraea, Spiraea arguta.
Thunberg's Spiraea, Spiraea Thunbergii.
Bridal Wreath, Spiraea prunifolia, fl. pi.
Vanhoutte's Spiraea, Spiraea Vanhouttei.
Snowberry, Symphoricarpos racemosus.
Coral Berry, Symphoricarpos vulgare.
Lemoine's Mock Orange, Philadelphus

Lemoinei.
Round-leaved Spiraea, Spiraea rotundifolia.
Regel's Privet, Ligustrum Regelianum.
Wright's Viburnum, Viburnum Wrightii.
Withe Rod, Viburnum cassinoides.
Scented Guelder Rose, Viburnum Carlesii.
Fontanesia, Fontanesia Fortunei.
Drooping Golden Bell, Forsythia suspensa.
Lace Bush, Stephanandra flexuosa.

EVERGREEN

Grecian Juniper, Juniperus excelsa stricta.

Mountain Pine, Pinus montana.

Japanese Yew, Taxus cuspidata.

Graceful Hemlock, Tsuga canadensis gracilis.

Mountain Laurel, Kalmia latifolia.

Hybrid Rhododendrons, Rhododendron
catawbiense hybrids.

Savin Juniper, Juniperus Sabina.

Pfitzer's Juniper, Juniperus Pfitzeriana.

Sargent's Hemlock, Tsuga Sargentii pendula.

Holly-leaved Mahonia, Mahonia japonica.

Cripp's Golden Cypress, Retinispora obtusa
Crippsii.

Graceful Japanese Cypress, Retinispora ob-
tusa gracilis.

Dotted Rhododendron, Rhododendron punc-
tatum.

Ink Berry, Ilex glabra.

Fire Thorn, Crataegus Pyracantha.

Japanese Andromeda, Andromeda japonica.

144 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Dwarf Shrubs

DECIDUOUS Maxwell's Spruce, Picea excelsa Maxwellii.

Dwarf Deutzia, Deutzia gracilis. Pigmy Spruce, Picea excelsa pygmaea.

Zenobia, Andromeda speciosa. Spreading Spruce. Picea excelsa Clanbrasi-

Sweet Fern, Comptonia asplenifolium. ^ liana. „ . .

Fortune's Spiraa. Spiraea callosa. Compact Japan Cypress, Retinispora obtusa
Fortune's Spirsea, Spiraea callosa alba. compacta.

Waterer's Spiraea. Spira!a Anthony Waterer. Spreading English Yew. Taxus baccata re-
Yellow Root, Xanthorrhiza apiifolia. pandens.

St. John's Wort, Hypericum prolificum. Canadian Yew, Taxus canadensis.

St. John's Wort, Hypericum aureum. Dwarf Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis, Tom
Dwarf Viburnum, Viburnum Opulus nanus. Thumb.

Dwarf Mock Orange, Philadelphus micro- Dwarf Arborvitffi, Thuya occidentalis. Little

phyllus. Gem.

Garland Flower, Daphne Mezereum. Prostrate Rose Box, Cotoneaster horizontalis.

Garland Flower, Daphne Genkwa. Prostrate Rose Box. Cotoneaster horizontalis

perpusilla.

EVERGREEN Garland Flower, Daphne Cneorum.

Compact Chinese Golden Arborvitae, Biota Hybrid Rhododendron, Boule de Niege.

orientalis compacta aurea. Hybrid Rhododendron, Mont Blanc.

Compact Chinese Arborvitae, Biota orientalis Hybrid Rhododendron, Glennyana.

compacta. Hybrid Rhododendron, Blandyana.

^?lr,Sfn^^r,L ^""'P"' ^""'P""^ ^^^'""^ Hybrid Rhododcndron, Kissena.

tamanscifolia. ■' ' , , . ,.

Chinese Trailing Juniper, Juniperus chinensis Japanese Spurge, Pachysandra terminalis.

procumbens. Chinese Barberry, Berberis verruculosa.

GROUND COVERS

There are many uses for this class of plant, or rather many places where
such plants can be used for the same purpose, namely, to cover the ground.
Sometimes it is difficult to maintain grass in a certain spot, or it may be in-
convenient to cut it; also the bare earth between the shrubbery should
be covered. Again, a planting may be desired in a place where tall shrubbery
would break a good view. For all such instances the plants recommended
in the following list are particularly adapted.

Shady Places
evergreen

Partridge Berry, Mitchellia repens. Sharp-leaved Bittersweet, Euonymus acutus.

Periwinkle, Vinca minor. Small-leaved Bittersweet, Euonymus radicans
Japanese Spurge, Pachysandra terminalis. minima.

English Ivy, Hedera helix. Creeping Euonymus, Euonymus radicans.

Creeping Mahonia, Mahonia repens. Japanese Yew, Taxus canadensis.

Evergreen Bittersweet, Euonymus vegetus. Wintergreen, Gaultheria procumbens.

Evergreen Bittersweet, Euonymus obovatus. Low Blueberry, Vaccinium pennsyVvanicum

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS

Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens. Lily of the Valley, Convallaria majalis.

Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis. Forget-me-not, Myosotis palustris.

Bugle, Ajuga reptans. Polypody Fern, Polypodium vulgare.

Creeping Speedwell, Veronica repens. Coltsfoot, Tussilago Farfara.

Anion's Speedwell, Veronica Allionii. Spring Beauty, Claytonia virginica.

Money Wort, Lysimachia nummularia. Jacob's Ladder, Polemonium reptans.
Ground Ivy, Nepeta glechoma.

In Sunny Places
evergreen

Heather, Erica vulgaris. Scaly-leaved Juniper, Juniperus squamata.

Heath, Erica carnea. Gray Carpet Juniper, Juniperus Sabina
Wintergreen, Gaultheria procumbens. tamariscifolia.

Bearberry, Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi. Canadian Juniper, Juniperus canadensis de-
Japanese Spurge, Pachysandra terminalis. pressa.

Trailing Juniper, Juniperus Sabina prostrata. Sand Myrtle, Dendrium buxifolium.

GROUND COVERS

145

HERBACEOUS
Rock Cress, Arabis alpina.
Wooly Yarrow, Achillea tomentosa
Snow-in-Summer, Cerastum tomentosum.
Rock Rose, Helianthemum, all varieties.
Lead Wort, Plumbago Larpentae.
Bluet, Houstonia ccerulea.
Moss Pink, Phlox subulata.
Creeping Baby's Breath, Gypsophilia repens.
Creeping Baby's Breath, Gypsophilia ceras-

toides.
Stone Crop, Sedum acre.
Stone Crop, Sedum album.
Stone Crop, Sedum sexangulare.

PERENNIALS

Stone Crop, Sedum stoloniferum.
Arenaria, Arenaria casspitosa.
Sandwort, Arenaria balearica.
Trailing Arbutus, Epigaea repens.
Calystegia, Calystegia pubescens.
Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens.
Creeping Phlox, Phlox stolonifera.
Creeping Buttercup, Ranunculus repens.
Thyme, Thymus Serpyllum.
Wooly Thyme, Thymus lanuginosus.
Speedwell, Veronica AUionii.
Speedwell, Veronica Teucrium.

VINES FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES

Flowering

Silver Vine, Actinidia arguta.
Trumpet Vine, Bignonia radicans.
Large-flowered Trumpet Vine, Bignonia

grandiflora.
Small-flowered Clematis, Clematis paniculata.
Large-flowered Clematis, Clematis Jackmannii
White-flowered Clematis, Clematis Henryi.
Rose-flowered Clematis, Clematis Ville de

Lyon.
Double White Clematis, Clematis Duchess of

Edinburgh.
Everlasting Pea, Lathyrus latifolius.
Japanese Honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica

Halliana.
Japanese Honeysuckle, Lonicera Hechrottii.
Polygonum, Polygonum baldschuanicum.
Roses, Rosa Wichuraiana, varieties.
Roses, Rosa multiflora, varieties.
Wistaria, Wisteria multijuga.
Wistaria, Wisteria sinensis.
Climbing Hydrangea, Schizophragma hy-

drangeoides.

With Ornamental Fruits

Silver Vine, Actinidia arguta.

Akebia, Akebia quinata.

Akebia, Ampelopsis heterophylla.

Bittersweet, Celastrus scandens.
Oriental Bittersweet, Celastrus orbiculatus.
Small-flowered Clematis, Clematis paniculata.
Matrimony Vine, Lycium halimifolium.
Chinese Matrimony Vine, Lycium chinense.
Chinese Matrimony Vine, Solanum dulca-
mara.
Glory Vine, Vitis coignetiae.

For Foliage Effect

Woodbine, Ampelopsis quinquefolia.
Boston Ivy, Ampelopsis Veitchii.
Low's Ivy, Ampelopsis Lowii.
Akebia, Akebia quinata.
Glory Vine, Vitis coignetiae.
Silver Vine, Actinidia arguta.
Japanese Honeysuckle, Lonicea japonica.
Dutchman's Pipe, Aristolochia Sipho.
Matrimony Vine, Lycium halimifolium.
Kudzu Vine, Pueraria Thunbergianum.
Silk Vine, Periploca graeca.

Of Quick Growth

Dutchman's Pipe, Aristolochia Sipho.
Kudzu Vine, Pueraria Thunbergianum.
Polygonum, Polygonum baldschuanicum.
Small-flowered Clematis, Clematis paniculata
Hop Vine, Humulus japonica.
Moon Vine, Ipomcea pandurata.

Self Clinging

(By means of aerial rootlets that adhere to brick, etc.)

Ampelopsis, Ampelopsis Engelmannii. Evergreen Bittersweet, Evonymus radicans

Low's Ivy, Ampelopsis Lowii.
Boston Ivy, Ampelopsis Veitchii.
Trumpet Vine, Bignonia radicans.
Euonymus, Evonymus radicans.

vegetus.
English Ivy, Hedera helix.
Climbing Hydrangea, Schizophragma hydran-

gioides.

Climbing by means of tendrils and leaf stalks

Silver Vine. Actinidia arguta.
Woodbine, Ampelopsis quinquefolia.
Dutchman's Pipe, Aristolochia Sipho.
Bittersweet, Celastrus scandens.
Small-flowered Clematis, Clematis paniculata

Japanese Honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica.
Silk Vine, Periploca graeca.
Kudzu Vine, Pueraria Thunbergiana.
Wistaria, Wisteria multijuga.
Wiataria, Wisteria sinensis.

Large-flowered Clematis, Clematis Jackmanii and varieties.

146

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

AQUATICS OR WATER PLANTS

For water over two feet deep the Water Lilies should be used; of these
there are a large number of varieties in various colors. These are generally
best planted in a shallow basket which is let down in the pool wherever desired.
A better effect can be obtained if a few rather than many plants are used,
as in the latter case the surface of the water is liable to be practically covered
with foliage, which eliminates the possibility of reflections. Other plants
mentioned in this list should be planted around the edge of the pool or in it
to a depth of one foot or less of water. Wherever possible give the plants a
good start by supplying them with good soil, then, after they are established,
very little care will be necessary.

Variegated Sweet Flag, Acorus japonicus

variegatus.
Sweet Flag, Acorus calamus.
Flowering Rush, Butomus umbellatus.
Water Arum, Calla palustris.
Sedge, Carex lurida.
Sedge, Carex vulgaris.
Umbrella Plant, Cyperus alternifolius.
Paper Plant, Cyperus papyrus.
Water Hyacinth, Eichhornia crassipes major.
Yellow Flag, Iris pseudacorus.
Common Blue Flag, Iris versicolor.
Jussia, Jussiaea longifolia.
Water Snowflake, Limnanthemum indicum.
Water Poppy, Limnocharis Humboldtii.
Parrot's Feather, Myriophyllum proserpina-

coides.

Swamp Loosestrife, Nesaea verticillata.
Arrow Arum, Peltandra virginica.
Pickerel Weed, Pontederia cordata.
Arrowhead, Sagittaria japonica, fl. pi.
Lizard's Tail, Saururus cernuus.
Cat Tail, Typha latifolia.
Wild Rice, Zizania aquatica.
Water Lilies (white), Nympheea alba candi-

dissima.
Water Lilies (rosy red), Nymphaea gloriosa.
Water Lilies (yellow), Nymphaea Marliacea

chromatella.
Water Lilies (pink), Nymphaea Marliacea

rosea.
Water Lilies (white, native), Nymphaea

odorata.

PLANTS FOR ROCK GARDENS

Shrubs — Deciduous

Garland Flower, Daphne Genkwa.
Mazereon Pink, Daphne Mezereum.
Mezereon Pink, Daphne Mezereum alba.
Aaron's Beard, Hypericum calycinum.
Shrubby Cinquefoil, Potentilla fruticosa.
Three-leaved Cinquefoil, Potentilla tridentata.
Korean Rose, Rosa Jackii.
Dwarf Bush Cranberry, Viburnum Opulus

nana.
Fortune's Spiraea, Spiraea callosa.

Shrubs — Evergreens

Bear Berry, Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi.
Evergreen Azalea, Azalea amcena.
Japanese Azalea, Azalea Hinodigiri.
Compact Chinese Arborvitae, Biota orientalis

compacta.
Trailing Rose Box, Cotoneaster horizontalis.
Trailing Rose Box, Cotoneaster horizontalis

perpusilla.
Trailing Barberry, Berberis verruculosa.
Sand Myrtle, Dendrium buxifelium.
Daphne, Daphne Cneorum.
Heath, Erica carnea.
Heather, Erica vulgaris.
Euonymus, Euonymus obovata.
Euonymus, Euonymus radicans.
Euonymus, Euonymus radicans acutus.
Euonymus, Euonymus radicans minimus.
Wintergreen, Gaultheria procumbens.
Small-leaved Japanese Holly, Ilex crenata

microphylla.

Trailing Canadian Juniper, Juniperus cana-
densis depressa.
Prostrate Juniper, Juniperus Sabina prostrata.
Chinese Trailing Juniper, Juniperus chinensis

procumbens.
Scaly-leaved Juniper, Juniperus squamata.
Gray Carpet Juniper, Juniperus Sabina tam-

ariscifolia.
Creeping Mahonia, Mahonia aquifolia repens
Maxwell's Spruce, Picea excelsa Maxwellii.
Pigmy Spruce, Picea excelsa pygmaea.
Spreading Spruce, Picea excelsa Clanbrasi-

liana.
Dwarf Mountain Pine, Pinus montana Mug-

hus.
Dwarf Japanese Cypress, Retinispora obtusa

compacta.
Short-leaved Japan Yew, Taxus cuspidata

brevifolia.
Spreading English Yew, Taxus baccata repan-

dens.
Dwarf Arborvitae, Thuya occidentalis, Little

Gem, Tom Thumb.
Wilson's Rhododendron, Rhododendron Wil-

sonii.
Rusty Rhododendron, Rhododendron ferru-

gineum.
Myrtle-leaved Rhododendron, Rhododen-
dron myrtifolium.
Hybrid Rhododendron, Rhododendron Boule

de Niege, Mont Blanc.
Weeping Hemlock (grafted low), Tsuga Sar-

gentii pendula.
Partridge Berry, Mitchellia repens.
Pachystima, Pachystima Canbyi.

PLANTS FOR ROCK GARDENS

147

Herbaceous Perennials

Wooly Yarrow, Achillea tomentosa.

Bird's Eye, Adonis amurensis.

Ox Eye, Adonis vernalis.

Bugle (Geneva), Ajuga genevensis.

Bugle, Ajuga reptans

Golden Tuft, Alyssum saxatile.

Androsace, Androsace sarmentosa Chumbyi.

Alpine Columbines, Aquilegia alpina.

Dwarf Columbine, Aquilegia fiabellata nana.

Rock Cress, Arabis alpina.

Sandwort, Arenaria balearica.

Sandwort, Arenaria montana.

Thrift, Armeria maritima.

Arnebia, Arnebia echioides.

Sweet Woodruff, Asperula odorata.

Alpine Aster, Aster alpina.

Alpine Aster, Aster ptarmicoides.

Alpine Aster, Aster subcaeruleus.

False Wall Cress, Aubrietia deltoidea.

False Wall Cress, Calamintha alpina.

Calystegia, Calystegia pubescens, fl. p!.

Harebell, Campanula carpatica.

Blue Bell, Campanula rotundifolia.

Snow-in-Summer, Cerastium tomentosum.

Arctic Daisy, Chrysanthemum arcticum.

Lily of the Valley, Convallaria majalis.

Crosswirt, Crucianella stylosa.

Chinese Larkspur, Delphinium chinense.

Maiden Pink, Dianthus deltoides.

Shooting Star, Dodecatheon Media.

Whitlow Grass, Draba fladnizensis.

Dragon's Head, Dracocephalum grandiflorum.

Trailing Arbutus, Epigsea repens.

Epimedium, Epimedium alpina.

Epimedium, Epimedium diphyllum roseum.

Epimedium, Epimedium macranthum vio-
laceum.

Erigeron, Erigeron glabellus.

Bottle Gentian, Gentiana Andrewsii.

Globe Daisy, Globularia trichosantha.

Baby's Breath, Gysophylla cerastioides.

Baby's Breath, Gypsophylla repens.

Rock Rose, Helianthemum vulgare and vari-
eties.

Christmas Rose, Helleborus niger.

Liver Leaf, Hepatica triloba.

Alum Root, Heuchera brizoides.

Coral Bells, Heuchera sanguinea.

Hutchinsia, Hutchinsia alpina.

Gold Flower, Hypericum Moserianum.

Candytuft, Iberis gibraltica.

Candytuft, Iberis sempervirens.

Crested Iris, Iris cristata.

Dwarf Iris, Iris pumila and varieties.

Spotted Nettle, Lamium maculatum.

Linum, Linum perenne.

Linum, Linum perenne album.

Ragged Robin, Lychnis Flos-cuculi.

Haage's Lychnis

German Catchfly, Lychnis Viscaria splendens.

Moneywirt, Lysimachia nummularia.

Forget-me-not, Myosotis alpestris.

Ground Ivy, Nepeta Glechoma.

Ground Ivy, Nepeta Mussinii.

White Cup, Nierembergia rivularis.

Dwarf Evening Primrose, CEnotheramissouri-

ensis.
Cactus (Prickly Pear), Opuntia arenaria.
Cactus (Prickly Pear), Opuntia Camanchica.
Cactus (Prickly Pear), Opuntia Rafinesquii.
Cactus (Prickly Pear), Opuntia polyantha.
Iceland Poppy, Papaver nudicaule.
Creeping Phlox, Phlox amoena.
Canadian Phlox, Phlox divaricata.
Perry's Phlox, Phlox divaricata Laphami.
Perry's Phlox, Phlox ovata.
Moss Pink, Phlox subulata.
Moss Pink, Phlox stolonifera.
Polemonium, Polemonium reptans.
Leadwort, Plumbago Larpentae.
Flowering Moss, Pyxidanthera barbulata.
Cowslip, Primula veris.
Selfheal, Prunella grandiflora.
Lungwort, Pulmonaria angustifolia azurea.
Bethlehem Sage, Pulmonaria saccharata.
Buttercup, Ranuculus bulbosus, fl. pi.
Creeping Buttercup, Ranunculus repens.
Rhexia, Rhexia virginica.
Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis.
Rock Soapwort, Saponaria ocymoides.
Saxifrage, Saxifraga pedmontana.
Saxifrage, Saxifraga umbrosa.
Scutellaria, Scutellaria baicalensis ccelestina.
Stonecrop (yellow), Sedum acre.
Stonecrop (white), Sedum album.
Stonecrop (white), Sedum Middendorfianum.
Stonecrop, (white), Sedum pulchellum.
Stonecrop (white), Sedum sexangulare.
Stonecrop (white), Sedum Sieboldii.
Stonecrop (white), Sedum stoloniferum.
House Leek, Sempervivum.
Shortia, Shortia galacifolia.
Woundwort, Stachy's grandiflora.
American Germanda, Teucrium canadensis.
Dwarf Meadow Rue, Thalictrum minus.
Thyme, Thmus citriodorus.
Mountain Thyme, Thymus sepyllum.
Wooly-leaved Thyme, Thymus lanuginosus.
Tunica, Tunica saxifraga.
Speedwell, Veronica AUionii.
Speedwell, Veronica gentianoides.
Speedwell, Veronica repens.
Speedwell, Veronica spicata erica.
Speedwell, Veronica Teucrium rupestris.
Horned Violet, Viola cornuta.
Bird-foot Violet, Viola pedatum.
Common Yellow Violet, Viola pubescens.
Lychnis Haageana.

Annuals
While it is possible to secure a good succession of bloom from early Spring
till late Autumn with herbaceous perennials, it is to annuals we look for a
profusion of flowers in Midsummer. The ease with which annuals can be
grown, as well as their beauty and thankfulness, has made them almost indis-
pensable in garden making. Many perennials, after flowering, leave a practi-
cally bare spot in the border, which can be conveniently filled in with annuals
so that the border is full of color throughout the season. When convenient,

148 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

and where space is available, seeds can be sown and the plants thinned out,
but plants started in pots are comparatively inexpensive and can be bought
in the quantities needed, and set out immediately. A border devoted entirely
to annuals is a joy to the owner all the season, especially if he or she does the
planting. Because of the large number of annuals available, in every possible
form, color and texture, no attempt will be made here to list them. The
reader is referred to other books dealing particularly and in detail with these
subjects; for example, "The Little Book of Annuals," by Alfred C. Hottes.

SUCCESSION OF BLOOM IN FLOWERING
SHRUBS

While shrubs are planted mainly for foliage efTect, it is a decided advantage
to have a continual display of flowers from early Spring until late Fall, and the
following table is submitted to make this possible. By comparing notes taken
from year to year the author has found that shrubs do not consistently follow
the same order of bloom each year. For instance, one year the Shadbush will
be in full bloom a week or ten days before the Starry Magnolia opens, while
another year the latter will precede by some days; sometimes the Japanese
Quince leads the Golden Bell, but the following year the order may be reversed,
etc. The actual date of blooming in the same place also differs considerably
from year to year, dependent of course upon weather conditions, but these
dififerences will not interfere with a general selection made for continual bloom.

Common Name Botanical Name Dominant Color

Japanese Witch Hazel Hamamelis japonica .... '. Deep yellow

Blooms sometimes late in February but generally late in March.

April

Common Name Botanical Name Dominant Color

Garland Flower Daphne Mezereum Light purple

White Garland Flower Daphne Mezereum album Creamy white

Cornehan Cherry Cornus mas Yellow

Golden Bell Forsy thia intermedia Yellow

Fortune's Golden Bell Forsythia Fortunei Yellow

Drooping Golden Bell Forsythia suspensa Yellow

Japanese Quince Cydonia japonica Scarlet

Starry Magnolia Magnolia stellata White

Standish's Honeysuckle Lonicera Standishi i White

Fragrant Honeysuckle Lonicera f ragrantissima White

Early May

Shad Bush Amelanchier canadensis White

Red Bud Cercis canadensis Rosy purple

Tamarisk Tamarix aestivalis Pink

Bridal Wreath Spirsea prunifolia, fl. pi White

Flowering Plum Prunus triloba Pink

Wild Azalea Azalea Vaseyi Light pink

Flowering Peach Prunus persica, fl. pi Various

Blue-fruited Honeysuckle Lonicera coerulea White

Fine-leaved Spiraea Spiraea arguta White

Thunberg's Spiraea Spiraea Thunbergii White

Wild Currant Ribes aureum Yellow

Garland Flower Daphne Cneorum Pink

Soulange's Magnolia Magnolia Soulangeana Rose pink

Japanese Cherry Cerasus serrulata Pink and white

Lilac Syringa obiata Lavender

Rhodora Azalea canadensis Purple

Beach Plum Prunus maritima White

Flowering Almond Prunus Amygdalus White and pink

BLOOMING TABLE OF SHRUBS 149

Middle May

Common Name Botanical Name Dominant Color

Flowering Dogwood Cornus florida White

Pink Dogwood Cornus florida rubra Pink

White Globe Flower Rhodotypos kerrioides White

Flowering Crab Apple Pyrus floribunda Pink

Parkman's Crab Pyrus Parkmannii Pink

Lenne's Magnolia Magnolia Lennei Reddish purple

Red Elderberry Sambucus racemosus White

Wayfaring Tree Viburnum lantana White

Hobble Bush Viburnum alnifolium White

Japanese Azalea Azalea Kaempferi Brick red

Scented Guelder Rose Viburnum Carlesii Blush

Vanhoutte's Spiraea Spiraea Vanhouttei White

Pinxter Flower Azalea nudiflora Pink

Yellow Globe Flower Kerria japonica Yellow

Late May

Hawthorn Crataegus Oxyacantha White and pink

Paul's Scarlet Thorn Crataegus Oxyacantha Paulii Scarlet

Scarlet Thorn Crataegus coccinea White

Deutzia (Lemoine's) Deutzia Lemoinei White

Dwarf Deutzia Deutzia gracilis White

Pearl Bush Exochorda grandiflora White

Job's Tears Staphylea colchica Creamy white

Xanthoceras Xanthoceras sorbifolia White

Snowdrop Tree Halesia tetraptera White

Morrow's Honeysuckle Lonicera Morrowii White

Tartarian Honeysuckle Lonicera tatarica White and pink

Reeve's Spiraea Spiraea Reevesiana White

Lilac Syringa vulgaris White and purple

Persian Lilac Syringa persica White and lavender

Siberian Pea Tree Caragana arborescens Yellow

Snowball Viburnum Opulus sterile White

Black Haw Viburnum prunifolium White

Wright's Viburnum Viburnum Wrightii White

Bechtel's Crab Pyrus ioensis Bechtelii Pink

Single Japan Snowball Viburnum tomentosum White

Chokeberry Pyrus nigra White

Red Chokeberry Pyrus arbutifolia White

Rouen Lilac Syringa rothomagensis Deep lavender

Ghent Azalea Azalea pontica Various

Holland Azaleas Azalea mollis Flame colors

Early June

Siebold's Viburnum Viburnum Sieboldii White

Japanese Snowball Viburnum tomentosum plicatum White

White Fringe Chionanthus virginicus White

Flame Azalea Azalea calendulacea Orange

Highbush Cranberry Viburnum Opulus White

Red-twigged Dogwood Cornus alba White

Cockspur Thorn Crataegus Crus-galli White

Harrison's Rose Rosa "Harrison's Yellow" Yellow

Japanese Rose Rosa rugosa Red and white

Sheepberry Viburnum lentago White

Hungarian Lilac Syringa Josikaea Rosy purple

Sweet Leaf Sy mplocus crataegoides White

Lilac Syringa villosa Lavender

Weigela Weigela floribunda Pink

Weigela Weigela amabilis and others Various

Scotch Rose Rosa spinosissima Yellow

Meadow Rose Rosa blanda Pink

Middle June

Mock Orange Philadelphus coronarius White

Deutzia Deutzia, Pride of Rochester Blush

Rough-leaved Deutzia Deutzia scabra White

Lemoine's Mock Orange Philadelphus Lemoinei White

Tree Azalea Azalea arborescens White

Ninebark Spiraea opulifolia White

Withe Rod Viburnum cassinoides White

Bladder Senna Colutea arborescens Yellow

150 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Middle June — continued

Common Name Botanical Name Dominant Color

Maple-leaved Viburnum Viburnum acerifolium White

Japanese Tree Lilac Syringa japonica Pale lavender

Rose Acacia Robinia hispida rosea Pink

Japanese Storax Styrax japonica White

French Tamarisk Tamarix gallica Pink

Sweet Briar Rosa rubiginosa Blush

Wild Rose Rosa nitida Pink

Japanese Dogwood Cornus Kousa White

Washington Thorn Crataegus cordata White

Allspice Calycanthus floridus Brown

Late June

Arrowwood Viburnum dentatum White

Silky Osier Cornus sericea White

Elderberry Sambucus canadensis White

Sweet Bay Magnolia glauca Cream

Weigela Weigela Eva Rathke Carmine

Scentless Mock Orange Philadelphus inodorus White

Clammy Azalea Azalea viscosum White

Common Viburnum Viburnum molle White

Lead Plant Amorpha canescens Rosy purple

Bastard Indigo Amorpha fruticosa Purple

Early July

Ash-leaved Spiraea Spiraea sorbifolia Cream

Virginia Tea Itea virginica White

New Jersey Tea Ceanothus americanus White

Queen-of-the-Meadow Spiraea salicifolia White

Smooth Sumach Rhus glabra Yellow

Shrubby Cinquefoil Potentilla fruticosa Yellow

Swamp Rose Rosa Carolina Pink

Flowering Raspberry Rubus odoratus Rose pink

Summer-blooming Spiraea Spiraea callosa Pink

Middle July

Native Hydrangea Hydrangea arborescens White

Native Hydrangea Hydrangea radiata White

Aitchinson's Spiraea Spiraea Aitchinsonii Cream

Billard's Spiraea Spiraea Billardii Pink

Douglas's Spiraea Spiraea Douglasii Pink

Lindley 's Spiraea Spiraea Lindleyana White

Smoke Bush Rhus cotinus Purple

Varnish Tree Kcelreuteria paniculata Yellow

Prairie Rose Rosa setigera Pink

Late July

Waterer's Spiraea Spiraea Anthony Waterer Rose pink

Butterfly Bush Buddleia Veitchii Lavender

Shrubby St. John's Wort Hypericum aureum Yellow

Shrubby St. John's Wort Hypericum prolificum Yellow

Sorrel Tree Oxydendron arboreum White

Sweet Pepper Bush Clethra alnifolia White

Spiraea Spiraea albiflora White

Early Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata praecox White

Buttonball Bush Cephalanthus occidentalis White

Oak-leaved Hydrangea Hydrangea quercifolia Cream

Staghorn Sumach Rhus typhina Red

August

Hercules' Club Aralia spinosa Cream

Single Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata White

Double Hydrangea Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora White

Rose of Sharon Hibiscus syriacus Various

Hardback Spiraea tomentosa Pink

Chaste Bush Vitex Agnus-castus Lavender

Sweet Pea Shrub Lespedeza Sieboldii Purple rose

White Pea Shrub Lespedeza bicolor Rose pink

Sweet Pea Shrub Lespedeza Sieboldii alba White

Blue Spiraea Caryopteris mastacanthus Lavender blue

Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana). Yellow Blooms in October or Novembef

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS ARRANGED

ACCORDING TO HEIGHT AND

FLOWERING SEASON

Those marked with an asterisk (*) are good for cutting.

MARCH

r,: u u ^''^'"' T,. ,'-''''"■ Height in inches

Mitchella repens Pink Trailing

Claytonia virginica Light pink 3 to 4

Scilla sibirica Blue and white 3 to 6

Chionodoxa Luciliae Blue and white 4 to 6

Galanthus (Snowdrops) White 4 to 6

Crocus, various Various 4 to 6

Hepatica acutiloba Light blue 6 to 12

Hepatica triloba Blue 6 to 12

Erianthus hymenalis Yellow 6 to 12

Adonis pyrenaica Yellow 6 to 12

Adonis amurensis Yellow 6 to 12

Adonis amurensis fl. pi Yellow 6 to 12

Houstonia serpyllifolia Light purple 6 to 12

Sanguinaria canadensis White 6 to 12

Adonis vernalis Bright yellow 9 to 12

*Fritillaria meleagris Yellow, spotted 12 to 15

Helleborus niger Blush 12 to 15

APRIL

Draba fladnizensis Creamy Trailing

Epigaea repens Pink ' .' .Trailing

Lithospermum prostratum and var Blue (heavenly blue, best) Trailing

Androsace sarmentosa Chumbyi Rose pink 2 to 3

Arenaria balearica White . 3 to 4

Arenaria montana White 3 to 4

Claytonia virginica Light pink '. 3 to 4

Phlox subulata Nelsonii (best) White 3 to 4

Nepeta glechoma Purple blue 3 to 5

Nepeta glechoma Blue 4

Bellis perennis White and pink '.'. 4 to 6

Phlox subulata White 4 to 6

Phlox subulata lilacina Lilac 4 to 6

Phlox subuata rosea Rose 4 to 6

Chionodoxa Luciliae Blue and white 4 to 6

Nepeta Mussini Lavender 4 to 6

Dodecatheon Media Pink and orange 4 to 8

Hutchinsia alpina White 5 to 6

*Viola cornuta, Admiration Purple 5 to 8

Viola cornuta, lutea splendens Yellow 5 to 8

*Viola cornuta, G. Wermig Blue . . 5 to 8

Viola cornuta. White Perfection White 5 to 8

Muscari botryoides Blue 5 to 8

Muscari botryoides alba White 5 to 8

Tussilago Farfara Yellow S to 8

Hepatica triloba Blue 6

♦Primula veris Yellow 6

Violet, Double Russian Deep purple . . . 6

Aubrietia deltoidea graeca Purple 6

Arabis alpina and var White 6 to 8

Primula acaulis White 6 to 8

Primula acaulis ccerulea Purple white 6 to 8

Primula acaulis Croussei plena Purple red .!....!.... 6 to 8

♦Primula vulgaris Yellow 6 to 8

Ranunculus gramineus Bright yellow 6 to 8

Vinca minor Blue 6 to 8

Houstonia sepyllifolia Light purple 6 to 9

Primula vulgaris ccerulea Blue 6 to 9

Aubrietia deltoidea Lavender blue 6 to 9

152 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

APRIL — continued

Name Color Height in inches

Smilacina racemosa White 6 to 9

Anemone angulosa Blue 6 to 9

Aubrietia Hendersonii Lavender blue 6 to 9

Lychnis alpina Pink 6 to 9

Anemone sylvestris White 6 to 10

Pulmonaria angustifolia azurea Gentian blue 6 to 1 2

Adonis pyrenaica Yellow 6 to 1 2

Hepatica acutiloba Light blue 6 to 12

Myosotis alpestris var Sky blue 8 to 10

Myosotis palustris semperflorens Sky blue 8 to 10

Anemone patens nuttalliana Purple 8 to 12

Anemone ranunculoides Yellow 8 to 12

Erythronium americanum Yellow 8 to 12

•Anemone Pulsatilla Violet 9 to 12

Allium molle Yellow 9 to 12

Erythronium americanum Yellow 9 to 12

Adonis vernalis Bright yellow 9 to 12

♦Papaver nudicaule Various 9 to 15

Hyacinths Various 9 to 15

Daphne Cneorum Rose pink 9 to 15

Anchusa myosotidiflora Blue 10 to 12

Iris pumila '. Various 10 to 12

*Phlox divaricata and var : . . Lavender to violet 10 to 12

♦Phlox Laphamii Deep lavender 10 to 12

Saxifraga megasea and var Rose to crimson 10 to 12

Adonis amurensis Yellow 12

Trillium erectum Purple 12

Allysum saxtile compactum Yellow 12

Dicentra canadensis White 12

♦Aquilegia flabellata nana alba White 12

Helleborus niger Blush white 12 to 15

Phlox pilosa splendens Rosy carmine 12 to 15

Trillium grandiflorum White.. i 12 to 15

Saxifraga crassifolia Blush 12 to 15

♦Narcissus poeticus White 12 to 15

♦Daffodils Yellow 12 to 15

♦Tulips, early variety Various 12 to 24

Actaeaalba White 15 to 18

Iris interregna Various 18

♦Aquilegia flabellata Lilac 18

Arisaema triphyllum Purple 18 to 24

♦Veronica gentianoides Blue 18 to 24

Saxifraga peltata Pink 18 to 24

Euphorbia polychroma Yellow 24

MAY

Draba androsacea White Trailiug

Lithospermum prostratum and var Blue Trailing

Lysimachia Nummularia Yellow Trailing

Calystegia pubescens fl. pi Pink Trailing

Veronica repens Light blue Trailing

Epigaea repens Pink Trailing

Arenaria balearica White 3 to 4

Arenaria montana White 3 to 4

Veronica rupestris Bright blue 3 to 4

Veronica rupestris alba White 3 to 4

Viola pedata Blue 3 to 4

Viola pedata bicolor Blue and purple 3 to 4

Nepeta glechoma Purple blue 3 to 5

Sagina subulata White 3 to 5

Veronica Allionii Gentian blue 3 to 5

Phlox subulata and vars Various 3 to 6

♦Shortia galacifolia White 3 to 6

Iris cristata Blue 4

Nepeta Mussinii Lavender 4 to 6

Ajuga reptans rubra Reddish purple 4 to 6

Dodecatheon Media Pink and orange 4 to 8

Vinca minor and vars Blue 4 to 8

Viola odorata Blue 5 to 8

Phlox Stellaria Lavender blue 5 to 8

Ranuculus ficaria Yellow 5 to 6

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON 153

MAY — continued

Globularia trichosantha Blue^°'°'^ Height in inches

♦Viola cornuta and var Var>V>"nc 5 to 8

Ajuga reptans .' ." .- ; Purnh^sh blue f '° ^

Armeria dianthoides WhUe ^

Arabisalpina ' "■White ^

Arabis alpina rosea . Pink ^ *'° ^

Epimedium niveum WhitP ^ *° *

Asperula odorata '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. White ^ ^° *

Polemonium reptans rIup ^ *o 8

♦Primula Sieboldii .' .' .' .' Varion.; <^ *^o »

Ranuculus gramineus Rri<ThwpnA;j 6 to 8

♦Convallaria majalis ! . . ! . .' '. .' '. ." Whfte ^ ^° *

*Iberis sempervirens and vars White 6 to 9

Primula vulgaris ccerulea .' Bi„g 6 to 9

Ajuga genevensis gi 6 to 9

Anemonella thalictroides WhitP ^ ^° ^

Aubrietia deltoidea I avpnHVr'w,;» ^ *° ^

Papaver alpinum ;;•; WWte ' ^ *° ^

Lamium album Wh t^ 6 to 9

Potentilla tridentata Whitl "^ to 9

Arnebia echioides Vellnw ^ *-° ^

*Iris pumila eburnea Creamv ^ ^° ^

*Iris pumila florida LemoTveliow ^ '° ^

*Iris pumila formosum vfoTt ^ ^° ^

Myosotis alpestris alba Wh t p <5 to 9

Myosotis alpestris, Victoria Lieht hi,',; ^ t° ^

Cerastium Biebersteinii White ^ '° ^

Lychnis alpina ^nt ^ to 9

Armeria alpina p ' t 6 to 9

Aubrietia Hendersonii ;; LavenHpV hinp "^ to 9

Aubrietia purpurea vfolet ^ to 9

♦Anemone sylvestris Whifo 6 to 9

♦Aster alpinus P^,r,;ip 6 to 10

Aster alpinus albus .'..'. WhitP 6 to 10

Nierembergia rivularis Whitp 6 to 10

Veronica Teucrium r,"p 6 to 12

♦Ins pumila cyanea P„rr>ip 6 to 12

Potentilla pyrenaica '. Yellow 6 to 12

Pulmonaria angustifolia azurea .■.■.■.■.■.'; Gent^AblnV 6 to 12

Pulmonaria saccharata maculata Bhie ^ '° ^2

Ranunculus repens fl. pi Yellow 6 to 12

Tiarella purpurea major '.'.'.'.'.'.'" 'Salmon'red 6 to 12

Ins gracilipes ; Lfla? 6 to 12

Epimedium Musschianum rubrum Red *

Epimedium sulphureum Yellow 8 to 10

Epimedium violaceum VinlPt 8 to lo

Myosotis alpestris .■:.■;.■ Skv hlnV 8 to 10

Myosotis palustris semperflorens Skv hlnp 8 to IQ

Saponaria ocymoides RnL ipH 8 to 10

Anemone patens nuttalliana Piirnle 8 to 12

Anemone ranunculoides Vpllnw 8 to 12

Iberis gibraltarica Lilac 8 to 12

Epimedium diphyllum roseum Rose 8 to 12

Epimedium pinnatum colchicum Yellow ?.

Anemone Pulsatilla VinW ^

♦Cyripedium acaule r!?«,, ,;;,;;i^ 9 to 12

♦Cypripedium pubescens. ......". Yellow^ ^ to 12

♦Cypripedium spectabile .' Pink 9 to 12

Primula elatior superba Vp11„w 9 to 12

Allium Moly ; ^^ °^ 9 to 12

Erythronium americanum '. Ve nw 9 to 12

Crucianella stylosa Pint 9 to 12

Primula denticulatum .' .' P,,rnlp 9 to 12

Primula denticulatum album. . . WhitP 9 to 12

Adonis vernalis RriilV ' ' 11 9 to 12

Teucrium Chamadrys ! fc nnr "i^ ^ to 12

♦Papaver nudicaule... Varin,P«^ ^ to 12

Daphne Cneorum Rose nl^t ^ to 15

♦Anchusa myosotidiflora RW 9 to 15

Euphorbia Cyparissias ." VpIIow 10 to 12

♦Ph ox divaricata canadensis LaveiTdVr JO to 12

Phlox divaricata alba grandiflora . . Whi?P 10 to 12

vvmie 10 to 12

154

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

MAY — continued
Name Color

♦Phlox divaricata Laphamii Lavender

♦Saxifraga megasea vars Various

Alyssum saxatile compactum Yellow

Bletia hyacinthina Pink

Bletia hyacinthina alba White

Campanula punctata White, spotted rose

♦Dianthus plumarius Various

Orobus lathyroides Blue

Orobus vernus Purple

♦Phlox Carolina ovata Magenta

Saxifraga umbrosa White

♦Aquilegia flabellata nana alba White

♦Caltha palustris and fl. pi Yellow

Dielytra formosa (eximia) Pink

Phlox pilosa splendens Rosy carmine

Corydalis nobilis Pale yellow

Dicentra canadensis White

Stellaria Holostea White

Saxifraga crassifolia Blush

♦Incarvillea grandiflora Light rose

Tiarella cordifolia White

♦Linum perenne album White

Geranium Grievesi Red

yEthionema grandiflora Pink

♦Aquilegia canadensis Red and yellow

♦Phlox Arendsii vars Lavender shades

Podophyllum peltatum White

♦Tulips, late variety Various

♦Geum bulgaricum Orange

♦Geum coccineum Heldreichii, Mrs. Bradshaw Scarlet

♦Geum miniatum. Perry's Orange

Iris amcena Various

♦Aquilegia formosa Red and white

♦Aquilegia glandulosa Blue and white

Iris florentina White, tmged lavender.

Actseaalba White

Actae rubra Deep rose

♦Incarvillea Delavayi Rose red

Lychnis Flos-cuculi Light pink

♦Aquilegia flabellata Lilac

♦Anthericum liliago White

♦Campanula grandis Violet blue

Aquilegia akitensis Blue and yellow

Doronicum Clusii Yellow

♦Mertensia virginica Blue

Arisaema triphyllum Purple

"♦Veronica gentianoides Blue

Saxifraga peltata Pink

TroUius, all vars Yellow shades

Tradescantia virginica Blue

Tradescantia virginica alba White

♦Dielytra spectabilis Pink

Lindelofia longif olia Blue

♦Paeonia tenuif olia fl. pi Deep crimson

Polygonum sericeum White

Ranuculus aconitifolius fl. pi Pure white

Ranunculus acris fi. pi Yellow

Saxifraga pyramidalis White

♦Anthericum liliastrum White

♦Paeonia officinalis rosea Pink

♦Paeonia officinalis rubra Crimson

Amsonia tabernaemontana Blue

♦Aquilegia alpina Blue and white

Doronicum excelsum Yellow

♦Luplnus polyphyllus and vars Blue, pink, white

♦Paeonia (herbaceous) sinensis («arly) various

♦Polemonium coeruleum Blue

♦Polemonium cceruleum album White

♦Thalictum aquilegifolium Purple

♦Thalictum aquilegifolium album White

*Hemerocallis. Gold Dust Yellow

♦Campanula medium Various

Height

in inches

10 to 12

10 to 12

12

12

12

12

12

12

12

12

12

12

12 to 15

12 to 15

12 to IS

12 to 15

12 to 15

12 to 15

12 to 15

12 to 15

12 to 15

12 to 18

12 to 18

12 to 18

12 to 24

12 to 24

12 to 24

12 to 24

15

15

15

15 to 18

15 to 18

15 to 18

15 to 18

13 to 18

IS to 18

8 to 20
8 to 24
8 to 24
8 to 24
8 to 24
8 to 24
8 to 24
8 to 24
8 to 30
8 to 30
20 to 24
24
24
24
24
24
24

24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
30
30 to 36

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON 155

MAY — continued

Name Color Height in inches

*Iris sibirica Purple 30 to 36

»Iris sibirica alba White 30 to 36

Iris versicolor Purple and yellow 30 to 36

♦Aquilegia vulgaris nivea White 30 to 36

Polygonatum giganteum Creamy 30 to 36

*Papaver orientale and vars Salmon to maroon 30 to 40

♦Pseonia Moutan (tree vars.) Various 30 to 48

Podophyllum emodi majus Pink 36

*Anchusa italica, Opal and Dropmore Blue 36 to 60

Iris ochroleuca Yellow 48

Iris Pseudacorus Yellow 48

JUNE

Calystegia pubescens fl. pi Pink Trailing

Thymus lanuginosus Lilac Trailing

Thymus serpyllum White Trailing

Thymus serpyllum coccineum Scarlet Trailing

Thymus serpyllum splendens Purple red Trailing

Lithospermum prostratum var Blue Trailing

Lysimachia Nummularia Yellow Trailing

Sedum acre Yellow 2 to 4

Sedum sexangulare Yellow 2 to 4

Thymus citriodorus Lilac 3 to 4

Veronica rupestris Bright blue 3 to 4

Veronica rupestris alba White 3 to 4

Viola pedata Blue 3 to 4

Viola pedata bicolor Purple and blue 3 to 4

Veronica Allionii Gentian blue 3 to 5

Sedum Middendorfianum Light yellow 3 to 5

Gypsophila cerastioides White 3 to 6

Nepeta Mussinii Lavender 4 to 6

Viola odorata Blue 5 to 8

Globularia trichosanthes Blue 5 to 8

Linum alpinum Blue 5 to 8

Viola cornuta, all vars Various 5 to 8

Asperula odorata White 6 to 8

Cerastium tomentosum White 6 to 8

Polemonium reptans Blue 6 to 8

Sedum kamtschaticum Yellow 6 to 8

Tunica saxif raga Light pink 6 to 8

Oxytropis hybrida grandiflora White 6 to 8

Papaver alpina White 6 to 9

Sedum pulchellum Pink 6 to 9

Iberis sempervirens and vars White 6 to 9

Cerastium Biebersteinii White 6 to 9

Myosotis alpestris alba White 6 to 9

Myosotis alpestris, Victoria Light blue 6 to 9

Dianthus deltoides Pink 6 to 10

Dianthus deltoides alba White 6 to 10

Armeria maritima splendens Bright pink 6 to 12

Armeria maritima alba White 6 to 12

Nierembergia rivularis White 6 to 1 2

Veronica Teucrium Blue 6 to 12

Potentilla pyrenaica Yellow 6 to 12

Pulmonaria saccharata maculata Blue 6 to 12

Ranunculus repens fl. pi Golden yellow 6 to 12

Tiarella purpurea major Salmon red 6 to 12

Hierracium aurantiacum rubrum Orange red 6 to 24

Armeria Laucheana rosea Rose 8 to 10

Armeria Laucheana alba White 8 to 10

♦Campanula carpatica Blue 8 to 10

♦Campanula carpatica alba White 8 to 10

♦Myosotis palustris semperflorens Blue 8 to 10

Iberis gibraltarica Lilac 8 to 12

♦Lychnis grandiflora Light yellow 8 to 12

Lychnis grandiflora alba White 8 to 12

Epimedium diphyllum roseum Rose 9

Epimedium pinnatum colchicum Yellow 9

Saponaria ocymoides Rosy red 9 to 1 2

♦Campanula rotundifolia Blue 9 to 12

Rhexia virginica Rosy purple 9 to 12

156 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

JUNE — continued
Name Color Height in inches

Veronica spicata erica Light pink ^ '^° ^^

Teucrium chamsedrys Rosy purple 9 to 12

Fragaria indica Yellow 9 to 15

Sempervivum atlanticum Light rose 10 to 12

Sempervivum tectorum Light rose ^R "^^ }t

*Dianthus latifolius atrococcineus Crimson 10 to 12

Dianthus plumarius vars Various 10 to 12

Achillea tomentosa Yellow. 12

Agrostemma Flos-Jovis Deep pink 12

Alyssum rostratum Yellow 12

Armeria formosa rosea Pink 12

Armeria formosa alba White blush 12

*Aster subcoeruleus Bluish violet 12

Bletia hyacinthina Rosy pink 12

Bletia hyacinthina alba White 12

Campanula punctata White, spotted rose 12

*Phlox Carolina ovata Magenta 12

*Polemonium Richardsonii Sky blue 12

Polemonium Richardsonii album White 12

Saxifraga umbrosa White 12

Geranium grandiflorum Lilac blue 12

*Lychnis Viscaria fl. pi Red 12

CEnothera ca;spitosa White 12

*CEnothera missouriensis Yellow 12

Orobus lathyroides Bright blue 12

Orobus vernus Purple 12

*Aquilegia flabellata nana alba White 12

Sedum Maximowiczii Yellow 12

Saponaria caucasica Blush 12 to 15

Corydalis nobilis Pale yellow 12 to 15

Stellaria Holostea White 12 to 15

*Dracocephalum Ruyschiana Purple 12 to 15

♦Incarvillea grandiflora Bright rose 12 to 15

Prunella grandiflora Purple 12 to 15

*Stachys grandiflora superbum Mauve 12 to 15

*Stachys grandiflora rosea Purple 12 to 15

*Pentstemon Smallii Rosy carmine 12 to 15

♦Anemone pennsylvanica White 12 to 15

Caltha palustris and vars Yellow 12 to 15

Potentilla, Miss Willmott Cerise 12 to 15

Spigelia marilandica Bright red 12 to 15

*Stachys lanata Purple 12 to 15

Statice Gmelinii Violet blue 12 to 15

Dielytra formosa (eximia) Pink 12 to 15

♦Lychnis Haageana Orange scarlet 12 to IS

Erigeron glabellus Violet purple 12 to 18

Linum perenne album White 12 to 18

Coronilla varia Pink and white 12 to 18

♦Dianthus barbatus vars Various 12 to 18

♦Mertensia virginica Blue 12 to 18

Geranium Grievesi Red 12 to 18

Linum narbonnense Blue 12 to 18

Chamaeiirium luteum Pale yellow 12 to 24

*Phlox Arendsii vars Lavender shades 12 to 24

Hieracium aurantiacum Orange 12 to 24

♦Hypericum calycinum Yellow 12 to 24

♦Anthemis tinctoria Yellow 15

Anthemis tinctoria alba White 15

Anthemis tinctoria pallida Light yellow 15

Stachys Betonica grandiflora Rose 15

Stachys Betonica rosea Pale rose 15

Statice tatarica Purple red 15

♦Geum bulgaricum Orange 15

♦Geum miniatum, Perry's variety Orange 15

Actaeaalba White 15 to 18

Actaea rubra Deep rose 15 to 18

♦Aquilegia formosa Red and white 15 to 18

♦Aquilegia glandulosa Blue and white 15 to 18

♦Veronica chamsedrys Blue IS to 18

♦Heuchera sanguinea alba White 15 to 18

♦Incarvillea Delavayi Rose 15 to 18

Astrantia major Pink 15 to 18

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON 157

JUNE— continued

Name Color Height in inches

*Chrysantheumum leucanthemum fl. pi White 15 to 18

*Scabiosa caucasica Blue .'..'..'.. 15 to 18

*Scabiosa caucasica alba White..... . ..........:. 15 to 18

*Geum coccineum, Heldreichii, Mrs. Bradshaw Scarlet 15 to 18

Marshallia trinervia White 15 to 18

Statice eximia Lilac 15 to 18

*Spireea filipendula fl. pi White 15 to 18

Clematis integrifolia Blue .. 15 to 20

♦Anthericum liliago White 18

♦Achillea millefolium roseum Pink 18

♦Campanula grandis Violet blue... 18

♦Statice latifolia Purplish blue '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 18

Euphorbia corollata White 18

Geranium platypetalum Purple 18

Geranium sanguineum Crimson '.'. .. 18

Geranium sanguineum album White 18

Inula ensifolia Yellow 18

Inula montana Yellow! 18

*Linum perenne Blue . 18

♦Lychnis Flos-cuculi Light pink .'.'.'..'! .'.'.'.'.'.■.■.' .'.'.' .i .' 18

♦Lychnis vespertina alba plena White 18

♦CEnothera speciosa White 18

CEnothera Pilgrimii Bright yellow'. '.'.'.'.'.'.'. 18

Veronica spicata alba White 18

Veronica spicata rosea Pink 18

Geranium Willardii Rosy red . . .' .' .' .' .' .' .' .' ." ." .' ! ." .' .' .' .' .' ." 18

♦Stokesia cyanea . Lavender 18 to 20

♦Stokesia cyanea alba White 18 to 20

Aquilegia haylodgensis Pink '. 18 to 24

♦Aruncus astilboides White ' 18 to 24

♦Lychnis coronaria alba White... 18 to 24

♦Campanula latifolia nobilis Purple 18 to 24

♦Campanula latifolia nobilis alba White 18 to 24

Amsonia salicifolia Blue. 18 to 24

Sedum Aizoon Yellow ;.';;;.';; 18 to 24

Silene virginica Rose madder '.'. 18 to 24

Pentstemon diffusus Purple 18 to 24

Aquilegia Skinnerii Yellow and red .■.■.;■ 18 to 24

♦Armena cephalotes Ruby Red 18 to 24

♦Campanula glomerata superba Violet blue 18 to 24

!Sr^^^''"'" hybridum in variety White to carmine .' .' 18 to 24

*Jha, l'^'''"'?, adiantifolium Creamy white 18 to 24

♦Trolhus, all vars Yellow shades 18 to 24

♦Hemerocalhs Dumortieni Buff yellow \«. tnol

Inula Royleana Golden ! ! ! .' ! ! ! ! ! .' ! ! ! .' .' ' ' 18 to 24

♦Veronica spicata Blue 18 to 24

Erigeron mucronatus Rose "' 18 to 24

Geum rivale Red 18 to ?4

Tradescantia virginica Blue .'.■."." '.'.'.'. '. '. '. '.'.'.'.'.'..'. 18 to 30

Tradescantia virginica alba White ■ ' 18 to 30

Thahctrum glaucum Bronze .' 20 to 24

♦Veronica amethystina Blue "' 20 to 24

♦Campanula latifolius Van Houttei Purple .■.■.■.■;.' 20 to 30

♦Aquilegia Hdena Blue and white V" 24

♦Campanula Grossekii Dark blue '24

♦Delphinium sinensis Blue . 24

♦Delphinium sinensis alba White 24

Polygonum sericeum White 24

Ranunculus aconitifolius White 24

*?^,"^"S,"'"S acris fl. pi !. Golden 'yellow. '.v. '.!!.'; 24

Sa via Greggii . Carmine :.:::: 24

balvia Greggii alba White 24

Saxifraga peltata White. !!!! i!!! ! 24

Valeriana coccinea .

. Rosy red 24

Valeriana coccinea alba White 24

Erigeron intermedius Blush white 24

Erigeron speciosus roseus Pink . . 24

♦Gaillardia grandiflora Orange color 24

Helemum Hoopesii Orange yellow ..'. 24

"Campanula allianaefolia White 24

Ins Xiphium Various '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 2i to 30

♦Lychnis coronaria Red 24 to 30

158 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

JUNE — continued

Name Color Height in inches

Amsonia Tabemsemontana Blue 24 to 30

♦Aquilegia alpina Blue and white 24 to 30

Baptisia australis Dark blue 24 to 30

Baptisia tinctoria Yellow 24 to 30

•Campanula persicifolia Blue 24 to 30

•Campanula persicifolia alba White 24 to 30

Dictamnus f raxinella Pink 24 to 30

Dictamnus f raxinella alba White 24 to 30

Catananche coerulea Purple blue 24 to 30

♦Pentstemon heterophyllus Blue 24 to 30

♦Spiraea chinensis Pink 24 to 30

♦Thalictrum aquilegifolium atropurpureum Rosy purple 24 to 30

♦Thalictrum aQuilegifolium album White 24 to 30

•Digitalis ambigua Pale yellow 24 to 30

Lythrum alatum Crimson purple 24 to 30

•CEnothera f ruticosa Youngii Yellow 24 to 30

♦Polemonium coeruleum Blue 24 to 36

♦Polemonium coeruleum album White 24 to 36

•Digitalis purpurea alba White 24 to 36

•Aquilegia chrysantha Yellow 24 to 36

Aquilegia chrysantha White 24 to 36

•Aquilegia coerulea Blue 24 to 36

•Aquilegia hybrids Various 24 to 36

•Clematis recta and fl. pi White 24 to 36

•Coreopsis lanceolata Yellow 24 to 36

•Pentstemon Digitalis White 24 to 36

Rosmarinus officinalis Purple 24 to 36

Sidalcea Candida White 24 to 36

Sidalcea, Rose Queen Rose pink 24 to 36

•Hemerocallis aurantiaca, major Indian yellow 24 to 36

Inula glandulosa prandiflora Yellow 24 to 36

•Lupinus polyphyllus vars Blue, white, pink 2 4 to 36

•Lychnis chalcedonica and fl. pi Orange scarlet 24 to 36

Monarda didyma and vars Pink to scarlet 24 to 36

•Papaver orientale. Perry's White White 24 to 36

Digitalis lutea Yellow 24 to 36

•Paeonia sinensis (herbaceous), late var Various 24 to 42

•Campanula latifolia macrantha Blue 30

•Hemerocallis, Gold Dust Yellow 30

Anchusa sempervirens Gentian blue 30 to 36

•Iris sibirica Purple 30 to 36

Iris sibirica alba White 30 to 36

•Iris versicolor Yellow and purple 30 to 36

•Aquilegia vulgaris nivea White 30 to 36

CEnothera glauca Fraseri Yellow 30 to 36

Agrostemma coronaria Crimson 30 to 36

♦Delphinium f ormosum Blue 30 to 36

Polygonatum giganteum Creamy 30 to 36

Saxif raga peltata Light pink 30 to 36

•Spiraea palmata Crimson 30 to 36

•Spiraea Ulmaria fl. pi White 30 to 36

Thermopsis carolinianum Yellow 30 to 36

•Hemerocallis flava Lemon 30 to 36

•Hemerocallis aurantiaca Indian yellow 30 to 40

•Papaver orientale, Goliath Scarlet 30 to 40

•Papaver orientale. Mahogany Maroon 30 to 40

•Papaver orientale, Mrs. Perry Salmon 30 to 40

•Papaver orientale. Fire King Red 30 to 40

•Papaver orientale. Queen Alexandra Salmon 30 to 40

•Papaver orientale, Victoria Louise Salmon 30 to 40

•Astilbe Arendsii Ceres Pale pink 30 to 42

•Astilbe Arendsii, Pink Pearl Pink 30 to 42

•Astilbe Arendsii, Salmon Queen Salmon pink 30 to 42

•Astilbe Arendsii, Venus Deep rose 30 to 42

•Astilbe Arendsii, Vesta Lilac rose 30 to 42

♦Iris Kaempferi in variety Various 30 to 48

Paeonia Moutan (Tree Peony) Various 30 to 48

•Delphinium, all varieties Blue and lavender 30 to 60

•Aconitum Lycoctonum Pale yellow 36

♦Campanula Medium Various 36

Campanula Trachelium Purple 36

♦Phlox suffrutico^a. Miss Lingard White 36 to 40

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON 159

JUNE — continued

Name Color Height in inches

Hesperus matronalis Purple 36 to 42

Hesperus matronalis albus White 36 to 42

*Hemerocallis Florham Golden yellow 36 to 42

*Hemerocallis luteola Golden yellow 36 to 42

Asphodelus luteus Orange 36 to 48

*Pentstemon barbatus. Torreyi Scarlet 36 to 48

Valeriana officinalis Blush pink 36 to 48

Funkia coerulea Blue 36 to 48

Yucca angustifolia White or cream 36 to 48

Romneya Coulteri White 36 to 48

*Galega officinalis Blue 36 to 54

♦Spiraea Aruncus White 36 to 60

Iris ochroleuca Pale yellow 48

♦Iris Pseudacorus Yellow 48

Aconitum uncinatum Purple 48 to 54

♦Spiraea venusta Deep rose 48 to 54

Spiraea venusta magnifica Deep red 48 to 54

♦Astilbe Davidii Rose violet 48 to 60

♦Astilbe grandis White 48 to 60

♦Salvia uliginosa Blue 48 to 60

♦Digitalis gloxinaeflora Rose colors 48 to 60

♦Hemerocallis f ulva Orange 48 to 60

Yucca filamentosa Creamy white 48 to 60

♦Lathyrus latifolius Deep rose 48 to 72

Lathyrus latifolius albus White 48 to 72

Aralia cachemirica White 60 to 72

Cephalaria alpina Sulphur 60 to 72

♦Althaeas Various 60 to 84

♦Eremurus robustus White 72 to 96

JULY

Calystegia pubescens fl. pi Pink Trailing

Thymus lanuginosus Lilac Trailing

Thymus serpyllum album White Trailing

Thymus serpyllum coccineum Scarlet Trailing

Thymus serpyllum splendens Purplish red Trailing

Sedum album White Trailing

Sedum Middendorffianum Sulphur yellow Trailing

Sedum sexangulare Yellow Trailing

Sedum stoloniferum Purplish pink Trailing

Lithospermum prostratum and vars Blue Trailing

Gypsophila repens White Trailing

Thymus citriodorus Lilac 3

Silene alpestris White 3 to 5

Gypsophila cerastoides White 3to 6

Astilbe simplicifolia White 4 to 6

Nepeta Mussinii Lavender 4 to 6

Silene Schaf ta „ Pink 4 to 6

Globularia trichosantha Blue 5 to 8

Linum alpinum Blue 5 to 8

Viola cornuta vars Various 5 to 8

Sedum pulchellum Pink 6 to 9

♦Helianthemum vulgare aureum Yellow 6 to 9

♦Helianthemum vulgare, Bride White 6 to 9

♦Helianthemum vulgare, Ball of Fire Red double 6 to 9

♦Helianthemum vulgare, Mrs. Earle Red double 6 to 9

♦Helianthemum vulgare. Rosy Gem Rose 6 to 9

♦Helianthemum vulgare, macrantha White 6 to 9

♦Helianthemum vulgare, Sudberry Gem Buff 6 to 9

Hypericum adpressum Yellow 6 to 9

Callirhoe involucrata Vivid crimson 6 to 9

♦Dianthus deltoides Pink 6 to 9

♦Dianthus deltoides alba White 6 to 9

♦Helianthemum vulgare alba plena White 6 to 9

Armeria maritima splendens Pink 6 to 1 2

Armeria maritima alba White 6 to 12

Nierembergia rivularis White 6 to 12

Potentilla pyrenaica Yellow 6 to 12

♦Campanula carpatica Blue 8

♦Campanula carpatica alba White 8

Armeria Laucheana rosea Rose 8 to 10

160 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

JULY — continued
Name Color Height in inches

Armeria Laucheana alba White 8 to 10

Artmesia pedemontana Yellowish 8 to 10

Sempervivum hirtum Yellow 8 to 10

*Myosotis palustris semperflorens Blue 8 to 10

Lychnis grandiflora Apricot 8 to 12

Lychnis grandiflora alba White 8 to 12

Rhexia virginica Rosy purple 9

Saponaria ocymoides Rosy red 9 to 12

Scutellaria alpina Purple 9 to 12

Veronica spicata erica Pink 9 to 12

*Campanula rotundifolia Blue 9 to 12

Lamium maculatura Purple 9 to 12

*Papaver nudicaule Various 9 to IS

Opuntia missouriensis Yellow 10 to 12

Opuntia Rafinesquii Yellow 10 to 12

Sempervivum atlanticum Light rose 10 to 12

Sempervivum tectorum Light rose 10 to 12

*Wahlenbergia vincaeflora Gentian blue 10 to 12

*Dianthus latifolius atrococcineus Crimson 10 to 12

Armeria formosa rosea Pink 12

Armeria formosa alba Blush white 12

♦Aster subcoeruleus Bluish violet 12

♦Veronica incana Bright blue 12

Sedum Maximowiczii Yellow 12

CEnothera caspitosa White 12

CEnothera missouriensis Yellow 12

Alyssum rostratum Yellow 12

Statice Gmelini Y}°^^^ ^^^^ J?

♦Polemonium Richardsonii Blue 12

*Polemonium Richardsonii alba White 12

*Dianthus plumarius, "White Reserve" White 12

Agrostemma Flos-Jovis Deep pink 12 to 15

♦Anemone pennsylvanica White 12 to 15

♦Aster amellus, King George Blue 12 to 15

♦Aster amellus. Perry's Favorite Rose 12 to 15

Saponaria caucasica Blush 1^ *^° 15

Dianthus cinnabarium Magenta 12 to 15

Prunella grandiflora Purple 12 to 15

♦Stachys grandiflora superba Mauve 12 to 15

♦Stachys grandiflora rosea Purple 12 to 15

Teucrium canadense Light purple 12 to IS

Erodium Manescavii Red 12 to 15

Spigelia marilandica Bright red 12 to 15

Santolina incana Yellow 12 to 15

♦Pentstemon Smallii Carmine 12 to IS

♦Phlox Arendsii Amanda Lilac 12 to IS

Polygonum Brunonis Bright rose 12 to 15

Potentilla, Miss Willmott Cerise 12 to 15

♦Lychnis Haageana Orange scarlet 12 to 15

Dielytra formosa Pink }? '° J5

Eryngium maritimum Pale blue 12 to 15

Funkia minor alba White 12 to IS

Geranium grandiflorum Pale lilac 12 to 15

♦Dracocephalum Ruyschiana Purple 12 to 15

Calimeris incisa Pale lavender 12 to 18

Erigeron glabellus Violet purple J? *° }f

♦Linum perenne album White 12 to 18

Linum narbonnense Blue 12 to 18

♦Tricyrtis hirta Deep orange 12 to 18

♦Lilium elegans, Vanhouttei Crimson 12 to 18

Coronilla varia Pink and white \l*-°\^.

♦Hypericum calycinum Yellow 18 to 24

Chamaelirium luteum Cream yellow 12 to 24

♦Anthemis tinctoria Yellow 15

♦Anthemis tinctoria alba White 15

♦Anthemis tinctoria pallida Pale yellow 15

♦Stachys Betonica grandiflora Soft rose 15

♦Stachys Betonica rosea Pale rose piok 15

♦Statice eximia Lilac 15

Statice tatarica Reddish purple 15

♦Geum bulgaricum Orange 15

♦Geum miniatum, Perry's Variety Orange 15

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON 161

JULY— conlinued

^<^^« Color Height in inches

Aster acris Violet blue IS to 18

*Aster ptarmicoides White 15 to 18

Aster Thomsonii Clear blue . ..........'. IS to 18

*Platycodon Mariesii Blue 15 to 18

Sedum Telephium Rosy white ':'..'. 15 to 18

Statice Limonium Purple blue 15 to 18

♦Spiraea filipendula fl. pi White. . 15 to 18

♦Phlox Arendsii, Greta White 15 to 18

*Phlox Arendsii, Helene Lavender blue. ..... '. '.'.'.'.'.'. 15 to 18

Potentilla formosa Red 15 to 18

*Scabiosa caucasica Blue 15 to 18

*Scabiosa caucasica alba White. .... . . ............. 15 to 18

Solidago Virguarea compacta Deep yellow........! . . . . 15 to 18

Marshallia trinervia White 15 to 18

♦Chrysanthemum leucanthemum fl. pi White. 15 to 18

*Geum coccineum Heldreichii, Mrs. Bradshaw Scarlet 15 to 18

♦Heuchera sanguinea alba White IS to 18

Achillea millefolium roseum Pink . . 18

Statice latifolia Purplish blue. .".'.'.'.!.'.'.'.'.'.' ." ' ' .' 18

Veronica spicata Blue 18

Veronica spicata alba White 18

Veronica spicata rosea Pink . .'.".'.' 18

CEnothera Pilgrimii Yellow 18

(Enothera speciosa .". .White .... . . . . . . '. . . . . . . . . . .. .. 18

Pentstemon pubescens Rosy pup'le 18

Salvia virgata nemorosa Dark blue. . .. 18

Inula ensifolia Yellow. 18

Inula montana Yellow '. 18

Layendula vera .' .' .'.'.' .'Lavender blue.'.'.".'. ! ! '.'. 18

Lihum tenuifolium Bright scarlet ' 18

Lmum perenne Blue 18

Lynchnis vespertina alba plena '. .White. . .... 18

Campanula glomerata Violet blue... 18

Centaurea dealbata Bright rose'.'.'.'.'.".'.'. 18

Euphprbiacorollata White 18

Geranium sanguineum ' . Crimson! ! ! ! 18

Geranium sanguineum album White. . .'.'.'.'!!!!!!! 18

Helenium pumilum magnificum Golden yellow 18

Stokesia cyanea. Lavender blue..'.!'.!! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 18 to 20

btokesia cyanea alba White 18 to 20

Armeria cephalotes, Ruby ! !! !! Red. .!!!!! ! ! 18 to 24

Dracocepnalum grandiflorum Blue..'.'.'.'!! !! 18 to 24

Campanula rapunculoides Blue 18 to 24

Aruncus astilboides White. . .! !!!!!!!!!!!!!! 18 to 24

Lychnis coronana alba White 18 to 24

Alyssum argentum Yellow... '! 18 to 24

Campanula latifolia nobilis Purple "" 18 to 24

Campanula latifolia nobilis alba White.'. .'.'.".'.'.' !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 18 to 24

Sedum Aizoon

Sile

•Yellow 18 to 24

"^^^^^^J^--::.:.;.- Rose madder i8to24

Thalictrum adinatifolium !Creamy white! 18 to 24

Veronica longifoha subsessilis Deep blue 18 to 24

Vincetoxicum japonicum Creamy white !!! " " 18 to 24

Centaurea ruthenica Yellow 18 to 24

Pentstemon grandiflora Lilac blue 18 to 24

Matricaria, Little Gem White '" 18 to 24

Phlox Arendsii Charlotte Pinkish I'il'ac .' .' .'.'.'. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 18 to 24

Phlox Arendsii Kathe Rose purple 18 to 24

PhysahsFranchetu.. Red fruits 18 to 24

Potent; la atrosanguinea Crimson 18 to 24

Potentilla Vulcan Maroon ! 18 to 24

Scabwsa japonica Lavender blue 18 to 24

Senecio pulcher Rosy purple 18 to 24

Heuchera bnzo.des Crimson." 18 to 24

Heuchera sanguinea. Coral red 18 to 24

Heuchera sanguinea alba Creamy white 18 to 24

Heuchera Virginal White 18 to 24

Hypericum Mosenanum Yellow 18 to 24

Inula royleana Yellow 18 to 24

Campanula glomerata superba Violet blue 18 to 24

Centaurea hirta nigra vanegata Purple 18 to 24

Chelone glabra alba Creamy white 18 to 24

162 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

JVL\— continued
Name Color Height in inches

Chelone Lyonii Rosy red 18 to 24

Tradescantia virginica Blue 1 8 to 30

Tradescantia virginica alba White 18 to 30

Trollius, all varieties Yellow shades 1 8 to 30

Montbretias, all varieties Various 18 to 30

Phlox decussata vars Various 18 to 42

Thalictrum glaucum Bronze 20 to 24

Centaurea montana Violet blue 20 to 24

Centaurea montana alba White 20 to 24

Coreopsis verticillata Yellow 20 to 24

Funkia undulata variegata Lilac 20 to 24

Saponaria officinalis Blush 20 to 30

♦Achillea filipendula Yellow 24

♦Achillea Ptarmica fl. pi. and vars White 24

Alstromeria chilensis Orange 24

♦Campanula latifolia. Van Houttei Purple 24

Lycoris squamigera Pink 24

Spiraea chinensis Silvery pink 24

Valeriarta coccinea Rosy red 24

Valeriana coccinea alba White 24

♦Veronica amethystina Blue 24

♦Veronica maritima Light blue 24

♦Campanula alliareefolia White 24

Pentstemon puniceus Scarlet 24

♦Pentstemon gloxinoides hybrids Various 24

♦Phlox Arendsii, Louise Lilac, dark eye 24

♦Platycodon grandiflorum Deep blue 24

♦Platycodon grandiflorum album White 24

Salvia Greggii Carmine 24

Salvia Greggii alba White 24

♦Heliopsis Pitcheriana semi-plena Yellow 24

Lysimachia ciliata Yellow 24

Lysimachia clethroides White 24

Lythrum alatum Crimson purple 24

♦Campanula Grossekii Dark blue 24

♦Campanula persicifolia Blue 24

♦Campanula persicifolia alba White 24

♦Chrysanthemum, Shasta Daisy "Alaska" White 24

♦Delphinium Sinensis Blue 24

♦Delphinium siaensis alba White 24

Eomecon chionantha White 24

Erigeron intermedium Blush white 24

Erigeron speciosus roseus Pink 24

♦Gaillardia grandiflora Orange shades 24

Geranium Fremontii Rosy purple 24

(Etheopappus pulcherrimus Rose pink 24 to 3o

♦Lychnis coronaria Red 2 4 to 30

♦Rudbeckia speciosa Yellow and brown 24 to 30

♦Pentstemon heterophyllus Blue 24 to 30

Erynigium planum Steel blue 24 to 30

♦CEnothera fruticosa Youngii Yellow 24 to 30

Heliopsis scabra zinniseflora Deep yellow 24 to 30

♦Campanula lactiflora alba magnifica White 24 to 30

♦Campanula lactiflora coerulea Pale blue 24 to 30

Dictamnus f raxinella Rosy pink 24 to 30

Dictamnus fraxinella alba White 24 to 30

Eryngium amethystirtum Blue 24 to 30

Funkia Fortunei Lilac 24 to 30

Funkia robusta elegans Mauve 24 to 30

♦Digitalis purpurea alba White 24 to 36

♦Polemonium cceruleum Blue 24 to 36

♦Polemonium cceruleum album White 24 to 36

♦Thalictrum aquilegifolium atropurpureum Rosy purple 24 to 36

♦Thalictrum aquilegifolium album White 24 to 36

♦Digitalis lutea Yellow 24 to 36

Monarda didyma Crimson 24 to 36

Monarda didyma rosea Deep rose 24 to 36

Monarda didyma salmonea Deep salmon rose 24 to 36

Monarda didyma violacea Amaranth 24 to 36

Monarda fistulosa alba White 24 to 36

♦Pentstemon Digitalis White 24 to 36

Rosmarinus officinalis Purple 24 to 36

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON 163

JULY— continued
Name Color Height in inches

Sidalcea Candida White 24 to 36

♦Sidalcea, Rose Queen Rose 24 to 36

*HeinerocalIis aurantiaca major Yellow 24 to 36

♦Lilium canadense Red and orange 24 to 36

♦Lobelia syphilitica Blue and white 24 to 36

♦Lychnis chalcedonica Orange scarlet 24 to 36

Lysimachia punctata Yellow 24 to 36

♦Clematis recta and ft. pi White 24 to 36

♦Coreopsis lanceolata grandirtora Yellow 24 to 36

♦Digitalis ambigua Pale yellow 24 to 36

♦Digitalis lanata Brown and white 24 to 36

♦Echinops Ritro Metallic blue 24 to 36

♦Lilium auratum White and gold 24 to 48

♦Lilium candidum White 24 to 48

♦Lilium Thunbergiana Yellow and red 24 to 48

♦Dahlias, in variety Various 24 to 84

Agrostemma coronaria Crimson 30

Agrostemma coronaria alba White 30

Asclepias tuberosa Orange 30

Pardanthus sinensis Orange 30

♦Asclepias incarnata rosea Flesh pink 30 to 36

♦Lilium longiflorum White 30 to 36

CEnothera glauca Fraseri Yellow 30 to 36

♦Salvia f arinacea Blue 30 to 36

♦Spiraea palmata Crimson purple 30 to 36

♦Spiraea palmata elegans Silvery pink 30 to 36

♦Spiraea ulmaria fl. pi White 30 to 36

♦Spiraea lobata Pink 30 to 36

♦Hemerocallis flava Lemon yellow 30 to 36

♦Campanula Trachelium Purple 30 to 36

♦Delphinium formosum Blue 30 to 36

♦Astilbe Arendsii and vars Pin^ shades 30 to 42

Solidago rigida Orange yellow 30 to 42

♦Gladioli in variety Various 30 to 48

Rodgersia tabularis Yellow foliage 30 to 48

Cassia marilandica Yellow 30 to 48

♦Delphiniums, all vars Shades of blue 30 to 60

♦Aconitum Lycoctonjim Pale yellow 36

Thermopsis caroliniana Yellow 36

♦Tritoma Saundersii Coral red 36

♦Phlox, Miss Lingard White 36

♦Rudbeckia Newmannii Orange yellow 36

Solidago Shortii Golden yellow 36

♦Heliopsis Pitcheriana Yellow 36

Heliopsis scabra excelsa Yellow 36

♦Lilium umbellatum Scarlet 36

♦Lilium Martagon Purple 36

♦Lilium Martagon album Pure white 36

Ly thrum virgatum Rosy purple 36

Gillenia trifoliata White 36

Hesperus matronalis Purple 36 to 42

Hesperus matronalis albus White 36 to 42

♦Rudbeckia purpurea Reddish purple 36 to 42

♦Hemerocallis Florham Golden yellow 36 to 42

♦Hemerocallis luteola Yellow 36 to 42

Centaurea macrocephala Yellow 36 to 42

Echinops sphaerocephalus Bluish white 36 to 42

Asphodelus luteus Orange 36 to 48

♦Lilium Brownii Blush 36 to 48

Valeriana coccinea alba Blush pink 36 to 48

♦Veronica virginica White 36 to 48

Yucca angustifolia White 36 to 48

♦Pentstemon barbatus Torreyi Scarlet 36 to 48

Rodgersia tabularis Yellow foliage 36 to 48

♦Romneya Coulteri White 36 to 48

♦Hemerocallis aurantiaca Yellow 36 to 48

♦Hemerocallis Thunbergii Yellow 36 to 48

♦Liatris scariosa Purple 36 to 48

♦Lilium tigrinum Orange 36 to 48

♦Lilium Batemanniae Yellow 36 to 48

♦Lilium croceum Deep orange 36 to 48

♦Lilium Hansonii Yellow, spotted black 36 to 48

♦Lilium chalcedonicum Scarlet 36 to 48

164 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCHPE

JULY — continued

Name Color Height in inches

♦Lythrum roseum superbum Rose pink 36 to 48

*Lythrum roseum. Perry's variety Cherry red 36 to 48

Solidago juncea Yellow 36 to 54

*Galega officinalis Blue 36 to 54

*Anchusa italica vars Blue 36 to 60

♦Spiraea Aruncus White 36 to 60

Senecio Wilsonianus Bright yellow 36 to 60

♦Cimicifuga racemosa White 36 to 60

♦Physostegia virginica alba White 40 to 50

*Lilium maculatum Orange 42 to 48

♦Helianthus multiflorus fl. pi Yellow 48

♦Aconitum uncinatum Purple 48 to 54

Achillea Eupatorium Yellow 48 to 60

♦Astilbe Davidii Rose violet 48 to 60

*Astilbe grandis White 48 to 60

*Lythrum Salicaria Purple 48 to 60

Spiraea venusta magnifica Intense red 48 to 60

Yucca filamentosa White 48 to 60

*Physostegia virginica Soft pink 48 to 60

*Rudbeckia maxima Bright yellow 48 to 60

*Salvia uliginosa f Blue 48 to 60

Solidago canadensis Yellow 48 to 60

*Hemerocallis f ulva Orange 48 to 60

♦Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pi Deep orange 48 to 60

*Lilium testaceum Yellow 48 to 60

*Digitalis gloxinaeflora Rose colors 48 to 60

*Lathyrus latifolius Deep rose 48 to 72

*Lathyrus latifolius albus White 48 to 72

*Lilium superbum Orange 48 to 72

Hibiscus Mallows White to maroon 48 to 84

Helianthus rigidus japonicus Yellow 50 to 60

♦Liatrus pycnostachya Purple red 60

♦Rudbeckia laciniata fl. pi Golden yellow 60 to 72

♦Helianthus multiflorus maximus Yellow 60 to 72

♦Althaeas Various 60 to 84

Bocconia cordata Creamy white 60 to 84

♦Eremurus robustus White 72 to 96

AUGUST

Gypsophila repens Rosy purple Trailing

Lithospermum prostratum and vars Blue Trailing

Sedum album White Trailing

Sedum Ewersii Pink Trailing

Sedum stolonfera Purplish pink Trailing

Calystegia pubescens fl. pi Pink Trailing

Gypsophila cerastoides White 3

Silene alpestris White 4

Silene Schaf ta Pink 4 to 6

♦Colchicum autumnale Various 5 to 8

♦Globularia trichosantha Blue 5 to 8

Li num alpinum Blue 5 to 8

Viola cornuta vars Various 5 to 8

Callirhoe involucrata Rosy crimson 6

Sedum spurium Pink 6

Sedum spurium coccineum Crimson 6

Plumbago Larpentse Deep blue 6 to 8

Helianthemum, all vars Various 6 to 9

Hypericum adpressum Yellow 6 to 9

Sedum Sieboldii Bright pink 6 to 9

Tunica saxifraga Bright pink 6 to 9

Lotus corniculatus fl. pi Yellow 6 to 9

Armeria maritima splendens Pink 6 to 12

Armeria maritima alba White 6 to 12

Nierembergia rivularis White 6 to 12

Myosotis palustris semperflorens Blue. 8 to 10

Artemisia pedemontana Yellowish 9

Rhexia virginica Rosy purple 9

Scutellaria alpina Purple 9 to 12

Lamium maculatum Purple 9 to 12

♦Papaver nudicaule Various 9 to 15

Anemone hupehensis Rosy mauve 10 to 12

♦Dianthus latifolius atrococcineus Crimson 10 to 12

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON

165

AUGUST— continued
Name Color

Opuntia missouriensis Yellow ,

Opuntia Rafinesquii Yellow ,

Wahlenbergia vincseflora Gentian blue

Geranium grandiflorum Pale lilac

(Enothera caespitosa White ,

CEnothera missouriensis Yellow ,

Satureia montana White

Statice Gmelini Violet blue

Veronica incana Bright blue

*Anemone pennsylvanica White

*Aster Amellus and vars Various

Coreopsis rosea Pale pink

Dielytra formosa Pink

Eryngium maritimum Pale blue

Potentilla, Miss Willmott Cerise

Spigelia marilandica Bright red

Saponaria caucasica Blush

Dianthus cinnabarinus Magenta

Calimeris incisa Pale lavender . . . .

*Linum perenne album White

♦Tricyrtis hirta Orange

Hieracium aurantiacum Orange

Hieracium aurantiacum rubrum Orange red

♦Phlox Arendsii var Lavender shades .

♦Hypericum calycinum Yellow

♦Anthemis tinctoria Yellow

♦Anthemis tinctoria alba White

♦Anthemis tinctoria pallida Pale yellow

♦Aster acris Violet blue

♦Aster ptarmicoides White

♦Geum bulgaricum Orange

Marshallia trinervis White

Polygonum compactum White

Sedum japonicum macrophyllum White

Solidago Virgaurea compacta Deep yellow

♦Statice eximia Lilac

Statice tatarica Reddish purple . .

♦Aster Thomsonii Blue

Potentilla formosa Red

♦Scabiosa caucasica Blue

♦Scabiosa caucasica alba White

Sedum spectabile Rose

♦Sedum spectabile, Brilliant Amaranth red

♦Platycodon Mariesii Blue

Sedum Telephium Rosy white

Statice Limonium Purple blue

♦Heuchera sanguinea alba White

Solidago nemoralis Yellow

♦Phlox decussata var Various

^Achillea millefolium roseum Deep pink

Artemisia stelleriana Yellow

■♦Centaurea dealbata Bright rose ,

Euphorbia corollata White

Geranium sanguineum Crimson

Geranium sanguineum album White

♦Helenium pumilum magnificum Golden yellow

Inula ensif olia Yellow

Inula montana Yellow

♦Linum perenne Blue

♦Lychnis vespertina alba plena White

Lysiraachia Fortunei White

(Enothera Pilgrimii Yellow

♦CEnothera speciosa White

♦Salvia virgata nemorosa Dark blue

♦Statice latifolia Purplish blue

Anemonopsis macrophylla Violet

Armeria cephalotes, Ruby Red

♦Campanula glomerata sujperba Violet blue

Centaurea hirta nigra variegata Purple

Chelone glabra alba Creamy white

♦Chelone Lyonii Rosy red

♦Eupatorium coelestinum Blue

Height in inches

10 to 12

10 to 12

10 to 12

12

12

12

[2
12
12

12 to IS
12 to 15
12 to 15
12 to 15
12 to 15
12 to 15
12 to 15
12 to 15
12 to 15
12 to 18
12 to 18
12 to 18
12 to 24
12 to 24
12 to 24
12 to 24
15
15
15
15
15
IS
IS
15
IS
15
IS
IS

15 to 18
IS to 18
15 to 18
15 to 18
15 to 18
15 to 18
IS to 18
15 to 18
15 to 18
IS to 18
IS to 18
15 to 42

166 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

AUGUST— continued
Name Color Height in inches

*Heuchera brizoides Crimson 18 to 24

♦Heuchera sanguinea Coral red 18 to 24

*Heuchera sanguinea alba White 18 to 24

Heuchera Virginal Creamy white 18 to 24

♦Hypericum Moserianum Yellow 18 to 24

Inula royleana Golden yellow 18 to 24

♦Matricaria, Little Gem White 18 to 24

Potentilla atrosanguinea Crimson 18 to 24

Potentilla Vulcan Maroon 18 to 24

•Scabiosa japonica Lavender blue 18 to 24

Senecio pulcher Rosy purple 18 to 24

•Stokesia cyanea Lavender blue 18 to 24

♦Stokesia cyanea alba White 18 to 24

♦Lychnis cororiatia alba White 18 to 2 1

Alyssum argenteum Yellow 18 to 24

Sedum Aizoon Yellow 18 to 24

♦Veronica longifolia subsessilis Deep blue 18 to 24

♦Montbretias in variety Various 18 to 30

Tradescantia virginica Blue 18 to 30

Tradescantia virginica alba White 18 to 30

Saponaria officinalis Blush 20 to 30

Rudbeckia fulgida Orange 20 to 30

Solidago caesia Yellow 20 to 30

♦Achillea Ptarmica fl. pi. and vars White 24

Alstrcemeria chilensisi Orange 24

Artemisia Abrotanum Yellowish 24

♦Boltonialatisquama nana Pink 24

♦Campanula Grossekii Dark blue 24

♦Centaurea montana Violet blue 24

♦Centaurea montana alba White 24

♦Coreopsis verticillata Yellow 24

Eomecon chionan|;ha White 24

Erigeron speciosus roseus Rosy pink 24

♦Gaillardia grandiflora Orange shades 24

♦Gentiana Andrewsii Blue 24

Geranium Fremontii Rosy purple 24

♦Heliopsis Pitcheriai^ Goiden yellow 24

Lysimachia clethroides White 24

♦Lythrum alatum Crimson purple 24

♦Pentstemon gloxinoides Various 24

Salvia Greggii Carmine 24

Salvia Greggii alba White 24

Valeriana coccinea Rosy red 24

Valeriana coccinea alba White 24

Aster spectabilis Purple 24

Eupatorium Fraseri White 24

♦Pentstemon puniceus Scarlet 24

Veronica maritima Light blue 24

♦Clematis Davidiana Light blue 24 to 30

Eryngium amethystinum Blue 24 to 30

Heliopsis scabra zinniaeflora Deep yellow 24 to 30

♦Lobelia cardinalis Red 24 to 30

Lysimachia punctata Yellow 24 to 30

♦Platycodon gradiflorum Blue 24 to 30

♦Platycodon grandiflorum album White 24 to 30

♦Lychnis coronaria Red 24 to 30

♦Rudbeckia speciosa Yellow and brown 24 to 30

♦Eryngium planum Steel blue 24 to 30

♦Pentstemon heterophyllus Blue 24 to 30

♦Coreopsis lanceolata grandiflora Yellow 24 to 36

♦Digitalis lanata Brown and white 24 to 36

♦Echinops Ritro Metallic blue 24 to 36

♦Gypsophila panculata and fl. pi White 24 to 36

♦Lobelia syphilitica Blue and white 24 to 36

Monarda didyma and vars Various 24 to 36

Monarda fistulosa alba White 24 to 36

♦Lilium auratum White and gold 24 to 48

♦Delphiniums in variety Various 24 to 60

♦Dahlias in variety Various 24 to 84

Asclepias tuberosa Orange 30

♦Aster Feltham Blue Blue 30

♦Campanula lactiflora alba White 30

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS, SEASON BY SEASON 167

AUGUST— continued

Name Color Height in inches

♦Campanula lactiflora coerulea Blue 30

Clematis heracleaefolia Pale blue 30

*Cimicifiiga japonica White 30

♦Eupatorium purpureum Reddish purple 30

Pardanthus sinensis Orange 30

*Rudbeckia subtomentosa Lemon yellow 30

♦Tritoma tricolor Red, yellow, and white 30

Funkia subcordata White 30 to 36

CEnothera glauca Fraseri Yellow 30 to 36

♦Salvia farinacea Blue 30 to 36

♦Tritoma Pfitzerii Orange scarlet 30 to 42

Solidago rigida Orange yellow 30 to 42

Vernonia arkansana Purple 30 to 42

♦Gladioli in variety Various 30 to 48

Acanthus mollis latifolius Orange foliage 36

♦Aconitum napellus bicolor Blue and white 36

♦Asclepias incarnata rosea Flesh pink 36

♦Helenium Riverton Beauty Bronzy red 36

♦Heliopsis Pitcheriana Golden yellow 36

Heliopsis scabra excelsa Chrome 36

♦Lilium speciosum White 36

♦Lilium speciosum rubrum Deep rose 36

♦Lilium speciosum melpomene Crimson purple 36

♦Lythrum virgatum Rosy purple 36

♦Phlox. MissLingard White 36

♦Rudbeckia Newmannii Orange yellow 36

♦Rudbeckia purpurea Reddish purple 36

Solidago Shortii Golden yellow 36

♦Tritoma Pfitzerii Coral red 36

♦Aconitum napellus Dark blue 36 to 42

Centaurea macrocephala Yellow 36 to 42

Echinops sphaerocephalus Bluish white 36 to 42

♦Eupatroium ageratoides White 36 to 42

Cassia marilandica Yellow 36 to 48

♦Helenium autumnale rubrum Bronze red 36 to 48

♦Hemerocallis Thunbergii Yellow 36 to 48

♦Liatris scariosa Purple 36 to 48

♦Lilium Batemannise Yellow 36 to 48

♦Lythrum roseum superbum Rose 36 to 48

♦Lythrum roseum, Perry's variety Cherry red 36 to 48

♦Pentstemon barbatus Torreyi Scarlet 36 to 48

♦Salvia azurea Sky blue 36 to 48

♦Salvia Pitcherii Bright blue 36 to 48

Artemisia vulgaris White 36 to 48

♦Lilium Brownii Blush 36 to 48

Veronica virginica White 36 to 48

♦Lilium tigrinum Reddish orange 36 to 54

Solidago juncea Yellow 36 to 54

♦Cimicifuga racemosa White 36 to 60

Polygonum cuspidatum White 36 to 60

♦Romneya Coulteri White 36 to 60

Senecio clivorum Yellow 36 to 60

Senecio Wilsonianus Bright yellow 36 to 60

♦Thalictrum diptcrocarpum Mauve 36 to 60

♦Physostegia virginica alba White 40 to 50

Artemisia lactiflora Creamy white 42 to 54

♦Helenium Riverton Gem Lemon yellow 48

♦Helianthus mollis Lemon yellow 48

Helianthus multiflorus fl. pi Golden yellow 48

♦Aconitum uncinatum Purple 48 to 54

♦Achillea eupatorium Yellow 48 to 60

♦Aster N. B. Climax Clear lavender 48 to 60

♦Boltonia latisquama Pink 48 to 60

♦Hemerocallis Kwanso fl. pi Deep orange 48 to 60

♦Lilium Henryii Orange yellow 48 to 60

♦Physostegia virginica Soft pink 48 to 60

Solidago canadensis Yellow 48 to 60

Stenanthium robustum White 48 to 60

♦Lythrum salicaria Purple 48 to 60

♦Campanula pyramidalis Blue 48 to 72

♦Campanula pyramidalis alba White 48 to 72

Salvia uliginosa Blue 48 to 72

168 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

AUGUST — continued

Name Color Height in inches

Hibiscus Mallows Various 48 to 84

*Boltonia asteroides White 54 to 72

Rudbeckia nitidus Primrose yellow 54 to 72

*Liatris pycnostachya Rosy purple 60

Helianthus multiflorus maximus Golden yellow 60 to 72

*Helianthus Wolley Dod Deep yellow 60 to 72

Rudbeckia laciniata fl. pi Yellow 60 to 72

Bocconia cordata Lavender 60 to 84

♦Lilium pardalinum Orange 60 to 84

Silphium perfoliatum Yellow 60 to 84

SEPTEMBER

Lithospermum prostratum and vars Blue Trailing

Sedum Ewersii Pink Trailing

Silene Schaf ta Pink 4 to 6

*Colchicum autumnale Various 5 to 8

*Viola cornuta vars Various 5 to 8

Sedum spurium Pink 6

Sedum spurium coccineum Crimson 6

Callirhoe involucrata Rosy crimson 6 to 8

Plumbago Larpentae Deep blue 6 to 8

Helianthemum, all vars Various 6 to 9

Sedum Sieboldii Bright pink 6 to 9

Armeria maritima splendens Pink 6 to 12

Armeria maritima alba White 6tol2

Nierembergia rivularis White 6 to 12

♦Campanula carpatica Blue 8

♦Campanula carpatica alba White 8

Myosotis palustris semperflorens Blue 8 to 10

Rhexia virginica Rosy purple 9

Scutellaria alpina Purple 9 to 12

♦Papaver nudicaule Various 9 to 1 5

Anemone hupehensis Mauve rose 10 to 1 2

*Dianthus latifolius atrococcineus Crimson 10 to 1 2

Wahlenbergia vincaeflora Gentian blue 10 to 12

Coreopsis rosea Pale pink 12

*Dianthus plumarius, White Reserve White 12

CEnothera missouriensis Yellow 12

Polygonum Brunonis Bright rose 12

Satureia montana White 12

Statice Gmelini Violet blue 12

Saponaria caucasica Blush 1 2 to 1 5

♦Eryngium maritimum Pale blue 1 2 to 1 5

Spigelia marilandica Bright red 12 to 15

Cunila mariana Lilac 12 to 15

Calimeris incisa Pale lavender 12 to 18

*Gentiana alba White 12 to 18

♦Phlox Arendsii vars Lavender shades 12 to 24

♦Anthemis tinctoria Yellow 15

♦Anthemis tinctoria alba White 15

♦Anthemis tinctoria pallida Pale yellow 15

♦Chrysanthemum arcticum White 15

♦Geum bulgaricum Orange 15

Polygonium compactum White 15

Sedum japonicum macrophyllum White 15

Sedum maximum atropurpureum Bronzy rose 15

Solidago Virgaurea compacta Deep yellow 15

Statice eximia Lilac 15

Statice tatarica Reddish purple 15

Platycodon Mariesii Blue 15 to 18

♦Heuchera sanguinea alba White 1 5 to 1 8

Solidago nemoralis Yellow 15 to 18

♦Geum, Mrs. Brddshaw Scarlet 15 to 18

♦Geum Heldreichii Scarlet 15 to 18

♦Scabiosa caucasica Blue 15 to 18

♦Scabiosa caucasica alba White 15 to 1 8

♦Sedum spectabile Rose 15 to 18

♦Sedum spectabile. Brilliant Amaranth red 15 to 18

♦Achillea Millefolium roseum Pink 18

♦Aconitum Fischeri Pale blue 18

*Aster Snowflake White 18

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON

169

SEPTEMBER — continued
Name Color

Centaurea dealbata Bright rose

Geranium sanguineum Crimson

Geranium sanguineum album White

*HeIenium pumilum magnificum Golden yellow

*Linum perenne Blue

♦Lychnis vespertina alba plena White

*CEnothera speciosa White

*Statice latif olia Purplish blue

Aster patens Bluish purple

♦Anemone japonica rubra Rosy red

Chelone glabra alba Creamy white

♦Chelone Lyonii Rosy red

♦Eupatorium coelestinum Light blue

♦Hypericum Moserianum Yellow

♦Matricaria, Little Gem White

Physalis Franchetii Orange red fruit

♦Scabiosa japor^ica Lavender blue

Senecio pulcher Rosy purple

♦Stokesia cyanea Lavender blue

♦Stokesia cyanea alba White

Tradescantia virginica Blue

Tradescantia virginica alba White

♦Phlox decussata Various

Saponaria officinalis Blush

Solidago caesia Yellow

♦Rudbeckia f ulgida Orange

♦Aster spectabilis Purple

Alstroemeria chilensis Orange

Artemisia Abrotanum Yellowish

♦BoltonSa latisquama nana Pink

♦Campanula Grossekii Dark blue

♦Centaurea montana Violet blue

♦Centaura montana alba White

Chrysanthemum nipponicum White

♦Chrysanthemum, Shasta Daisy "Alaska" White

Funkia lancelota Lilac

♦Gaillardia grandiflora Crimson and orange .

Lythrum alatum Crimson purple

♦Pentstemon gloxinioides Various

Salvia Greggii Carmine

Salvia Greggii alba White

Valeriana coccinea Rosy red

Valeriana coccinea alba White

Eupatorium Fraseri White

♦Anemone Kreimhilde japonica Rose pink

♦Anemone Loreley japonica Mauve pink

♦Anemone rosea superba japonica Silvery rose

♦Clematis Davidiana Light blue

♦Lobelia cardinalis Red

♦Montbretias in variety Various

♦Platycodon grandiflorum Deep blue

♦Platycodon grandiflorum album White

♦Liatris spicata Lilac

♦Anemone japonica alba White

♦Anemone japonica, Alice Silver rose

♦Anemone japonica. Prince Henry Deep pink

♦Anemone japonica. Whirlwind White

♦Caryopteris Mastacanthus Light blue

♦Coreopsis lanceolata grandiflora Yellow

♦Echinops Ritro Metallic blue

♦Gypsophila paniculata and fl. pi White

♦Lobelia syphilitica Blue and white

♦Dahlias in variety Various

♦Aster Feltham Blue Blue

♦Cimicif uga japonica White

Clematis heracleaefolia Pale blue

Eupatorium purpureum maculatum Reddish purple

Iris foetidissima Oange red fruit ....

♦Rudbeckia subtomentosa Lemon yellow

Polygonum amplexicaule Pinkish

♦Anemone japonica, Queen Charlotte Soft pink

♦Aster novi-belgii, Saphir Sky blue

Height :

18 to 24
18 to 24
18 to 24

to 24
18 to 24
18 to 24

to 24

to 24
18 to 24
18 to 24
18 to 24

to 24
18 to 30
18 to 30
18 to 42
20 to 30
20 to 30
20 to 30
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24
24

24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 30
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 36
24 to 84
30
30
30
30
30
30

30 to 36
30 to 36
30 to 36

170 THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

SEPTEM BER — continued
Name Color [{eight in inch's

*Aster novi-belgii, St. Egwyn Bright pink 30 to 36

♦Aster novi-belgii. Robert Parker Lavender 30 to 36

*Aster novi-belgii, Snow Queen White 30 to 36

Cimicifuga simplex White 30 to 36

Funkia subcordata White 30 to 36

Solidago rigida Orange yellow 30 to 42

♦Vernonia arkansana Purple 30 to 42

♦Tritoma Pfitzerii Orange scarlet 30 to 42

♦Gladioli in variety Various 30 to 48

Solidago speciosa Yellow 30 to 48

♦Delphiniums, all vars Various blues 30 to 60

♦Aconitum napellus bicolor Blue and white 36

♦Anemone japonica, Geante Blanche White 36

Aster formosissimus Violet 36

♦Aster novi-belgii, Herbstelf e Lavender blue 36

♦Aster novi-belgii, Mrs. Raynor Purplish crimson 36

♦Helenium, Riverton Beauty Bronzy red 36

♦Lilium speciosum and vars White to pink 36

Lythrum virgatum Rosy purple 36

♦Phlox, MissLingard White 36

♦Rudbeckia Newmannii Orange yellow 36

Rudbeckia purpurea Reddish purple 36

♦Aster novi-belgii, Mme. Soyneuse Light blue 36 to 40

♦Echinops sphaerocephalus Bluish white 36 to 42

♦Eupatorium ageratoides White 36 to 42

Artemisia vulgaris White 36 to 48

♦Aster laevis Light blue 36 to 48

♦Aconitum Napellus Dark blue 36 to 48

♦Aster Beauty of Colwall Lavender blue 36 to 48

♦Aster Peggy Ballard Lavender blue 36 to 48

♦Lythrum roseum superbum Rose 36 to 48

♦Lythrum roseum. Perry's variety Cherry red 36 to 48

♦Pyrethrum uliginosum stellatum White 36 to 48

♦Salvia azurea Sky blue 36 to 48

♦Salvia Pitcheri Bright blue 36 to 48

Polygonum cuspidatum White 36 to 60

Senecio clivorum Yellow 36 to 60

♦Thalictrum dipterocarpum Mauve 36 to 60

♦Tritoma uvaria grandiflora Reddish salmon 39 to 48

♦Physostegia virginica alba White 40 to 50

Cimicifuga dahurica Creamy white 42

♦Aster turbinellus Purple blue 42 to 48

Artemisia lactiflora Creamy white 42 to 54

♦Aster novae-angliae Purplish violet 48

♦Aster novje-anglise, Lillian Fardel Bright mauve 48

♦Aster novae-angliae rosea Purple mauve 48

♦Helenjum autumnale rubrum Brorize red 48

♦Helenium, Riverton Gem Golden yellow 48

♦Helianthus mollis Lemon yellow 48

♦Aconitum uncinatum Purple 48 to 54

Lespedeza japonica alba White 48 to 54

Aster cordif olius Rosy lilac 48 to 60

Lespedeza Sieboldii Rosy purple 48 to 60

Achillea eupatorium Yellow 48 to 60

♦Physostegia virgir^ica Soft pink 48 to 60

Rudbeckia maxima Bright yellow 48 to 60

Solidagt) canadensis Yellow 48 to 60

Stenanthium robustum White 48 to 60

♦Salvia uliginosa Blue 48 to 70

♦Boltonia latisquama Pink 48 to 72

Hibiscus (Mallows) White to maroon 48 to 84

Clematis stans Blue 54 to 60

♦Aconitum Wilsonii Violet blue 54 to 72

♦Helenium autumnale superbum Yellow 60 to 72

Helianthus giganteus Pale yellow 60 to 72

♦Helianthus, Wolley Dod Deep yellow 60 to 72

♦Rudbeckia laciniata fl. pi Golden yellow 60 to 72

Rudbeckia nitida Primrose yellow 60 to 72

Silphium perfoliatum Yellow 60 to 84

♦Boltonia asteroides Lavender 60 to 84

HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS SEASON BY SEASON 171

OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER

Name Color Height in inches

*Silene Schafta Pink 4 to 6

*Viola cornuta vars V arious 5 to 8

Anemone hupehensis Mauve rose 10 to 12

Spigelia marilandica Bright red 12 to 15

Hieracium aurantiacum Orange 12 to 24

Hieracium aurantiacum rubrum Orange red 12 to 24

♦Anthemis tinctoria Yellow IS

*Anthemis tinctoria alba White 15

♦Anthemis tinctoria pallida Pale yellow 15

♦Chrysanthemum arcticum White 15

Sedum maximum atropurpureum Bronzy rose 15

*Sedum spectabile Rose 15 to 18

*Sedum spectabile, Brilliant Amaranth red 15 to 18

♦Aconitum Fischeri Pale blue 18

Gentiana scabra Blue 18

Geranium sanguineum Crimson 18

Geranium sanguineum album White 18

♦Matricaria. Little Gem White 18 to 24

Physalis Franchetii Orange red fruits 18 to 24

*Aster patens Bluish purple 18 to 24

♦Chrysanthemum, all vars Various 18 to 30

♦Phlox decussata Various 18 to 42

♦Chrysanthemum nipponicum White 24

♦Chrysanthemum Shasta Daisy "Alaska" White 24

♦Gaillardia grandiflora Orange and crimson 24

Valeriana coccinea Rosy red 24

Valeriana coccinea alba White 24

♦Anemone japonica varieties Various 24 to 36

♦Aster, same vars. as September Various 24 to 60

Iris foetidissima Orange red fruits 30

Rudbeckia subtomentosa Lemon yellow 30

Polygonum amplexicaule Pinkish 30 to 36

♦Gladioli in variety Various 30 to 48

♦Caryopteris Mastacanthus Light blue 30 to 36

Cimicifuga simplex White 30 to 36

♦Rudbeckia purpurea Reddish purple 36

Solidago speciosa Yellow 36 to 48

♦Tritoma uvaria grandiflora Reddish salmon 36 to 60

♦Aster turbinellus Purple blue 42 to 48

Lespedeza japonica alba White 48 to 54

♦Aster cordifolius Rosy lilac 48 to 60

♦Salvia uliginosa Blue 48 to 72

Lespedeza Sieboldii Rosy purple 50 to 60

Clematis stans Blue 54 to 60

Rudbeckia nitida Primrose yellow 54 to 72

♦Aster tataricus Bluish violet 60 to 72

Helianthus giganteus Canary yellow 60 to 72

Helianthus Maximilianus Golden yellow 60 to 84

♦Boltoniaasteroides Lavender 60 to 84

*Dahlias in variety Various 24 to 84

INDEX

(Figures in italics refer to illustrations.)

PAGE
Accent material 83

points 56

Accessories, Garden 109

Acid phosphate 18

Adjoining properties, One drive for. 28

Alkanite 79

Alpine plants 47, 103

American Rose Society Annual 93

Annuals 97

Approach to house 10

Aquatics 146

Arbors 85

Arch, Construction of 117

Arches 118

Architectural Style 5

Arrangement of home grounds 12

of Perennials 95

of walks and drives. .21, 22, 23,

24 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31. 33

Ashler walls 44

Athletic field. Plan of 120

Autumn coloring. Plants for 139

Avenue trees 142

Axis of house 32

The garden, 85

Baby Rambler Roses, Pruning 93

Back pointing 41

Background, Trees in the 54

Bailey quoted, L. H 3

Banks, Planting 67

Barberry, Japanese 48

Bark, Trees and shrubs with col-
ored 141

Barrier wall 42

Baseball diamond 124

"Basket" pattern for path 37

Belvideres 85

Bent grass 21

Berry bearing shrubs and trees 137

Binding banks. Plants for 133

Birch 7

Birds, Plants attractive to 138

"Blinded," Peonies 68

Blue Grass 21

Bonding 42

Bonemeal 18

P.\GE

Border, Informal 58

Perennial or Hardy 93, 98

plans 92, 94, 96

Plant materials in 79

Planting the 57

Shrubbery 2

Bowling green 126

Branching walk 63

Brick path 37, 38

Brick wall construction 41

Brick walks 32, 35

Brick work 42

Bridal Wreath 75

Broken ashler 44

Budded Roses 89

Building a rock garden 102

Bulbs 98

Planting 98

Protecting 78

Bush Honeysuckles 81

Buttresses in walls 44

Caroline Testout Rose 92

Catch basins 39, 40

Cement walks 31, 33

Character in design 3

Cinder walk 31

Circular bed. Bulbs in 98

City conditions. Plants for 141

Classes of bulbs 98

of rock 101

Claypool, Construction of 105

Clay puddling process 10

Clearing land 9

Climbing Roses, Planting 90

Pruning 92

Cobblestone walk 33

Colonial house, The 54

Color effects in formal gardens 87

Color, Elements of 81

in the garden 80, 81, 83

intensity 81

proportions 83

value 81

Colored foliage. Shrubs with 139

Columns of pergola 117

Complementary colors 81

173

174

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

Concrete gutter 39

roads 38

Construction of arch 117

of ashler walls 43

of clay pool 105

of driveway 39

of formal pool 104

of paths 34, 35, 36, 37,38

of pergola 113, 114

of rockery 100

of Rose bed 87

Contrast colors 81

Cooperative drive 33

Coping for pools 108

Corner planting 56, 57

Correctly planted tree 68

Cottonseed meal 18

Course ashler wall 44

Cow Peas 18

Crocus 98

Croquet ground 128

Crushed stone walks 31

Curling area 122

Curves in walks 25

Cutting the lawn 21

Cypress 113

Depth to plant, Proper 68

Design, Garden 81

of retaining wall 46

Principles of 3

Diamond, Baseball 124

Distances for planting 50

Diverging roads 19

Divisions of the home grounds 53

Dorothy Perkins Rose 92

Drain, Outlet for 16

Drainage 8, 15

of Roads 39

Drive Arrangements. . .21, 22, 23, 26,
27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33

service 30

Drive turn 28

Drives and walks 25

Drives, Construction of 36

Driveway, Waterbound macadam. . 39

Well planned 62

Dry soils, Plants for 130

Dry walls 45, 47

Dry well 16, 17

Dwarf evergreens 104

hedge plants 135

shrubs 127

trees, Jr.panese 77

PAGE

Dynamite, Clearing land with 9

Planting with 65, 69

Elements of color 81

English house, The 54

Entrance, The 26

Entrance to an estate 20

Evergreen, Planting an 70

Evergreens 56, 61

Protecting 78

Pruning 76

Exposure, Best 8

Fall planting 68

Fertilizer 18

Fescue 21

Field stone walk 33

Filler material 83

Filling (in a wall) 41

Finish in design 4

of pergola 117

Flagstone walk 33, 35

Floor of pergola 116, 118

Flowering shrubs, pruning 75, 76

Succession of bloom in 148

Flush joint 41

Foliage color SO

Foliage, Trees and shrubs with

colored or variegated 139

Formal gardens 82, 83, 84, 86

Formal hedges. Plants for 134

Formal pools 104, 105

Foundation of Pergola 117

Foundation planting. The. . .27, 59, 60

Plants for the 143

Foundations for walls 44

Fountains 85

Front lawn. Grading the 12

Foxglove 68, 79, 97

Framing, Trees for 56

Frau Karl Druschki Rose 91

Frozen plants, Handling 67

Garden Accessories 109

Color in the 81

Design and making 81

Gate 2, 116, 117

The formal 82, i2,, 84, 86

The rock 99

Gardens, Rose 87

Gates, Garden 2, 116, 117

General Jack Rose 91

Geometrical bases for formal gardens 82

Gladiolus 98

Gnomen 109

Golden Bell 75

INDEX

175

PAGE

Goldfish.... 108

Gothic architecture 54

Grading 11

the front lawn 12

to save old trees 14

the suburban lot //

Grass seed 21

Grass seed mixture 21

Gravel walks 31, 35

Grecian architecture 54

Ground covers 144

Groupings 61

Groups, Shrubbery 62

Groups of trees or shrubs . . .18, 61, 65

Gutters 39

Guying a tree 64, 69

Hardy border 93

Header 41

"Heading back" 73

"Healing-in" 67

Hedge... 25

bordering a drive 27, 32

Hedge plants. Pruning 76

Hedges, Plants for formal 134

Planting distances for 48

Plants for informal 135

Pruning 77

"Heeling in" 62

Herbaceous perennials, Protecting. . 78

"Herring-bone" pattern 38

Hillside planting 51

Hockey field 128

Hollyhock 79

Home grounds. Division of 52

House, Locating the 8

House Site 6

Hue 81

Hyacinths 98

Hybrid Perpetual Roses 91

Hybrid Tea Roses 92

Hydrangea 75, 76

Igneous rocks 101

Informal border 58

Informal pools 106

Intensity of color 81

Interest material 83

Irrigation of dry wall 47

of the rock garden 104

Japan Quince 75

Japanese garden 5

June Roses, Pruning 91

Junipers 104

P.\GE
Kainite 18

La France Rose 92

Landscape construction 8

Landscape development. Styles of. . 5

Larch 113

Large trees for general use 119

Larkspur 97

Lawn, Cutting the 21

A graded 8

Making the 15

Renovating an old 24

Seeding the 19

Lawn specimens, Small flowering

trees for 139

Lilacs 75

Lilies, Pools for 105

Limb, Removing a large 74

Lime 17

Location of rock garden 100

Locust 113, 116

Lombardy Poplars 49

Macadam driveway 37

Making, Garden 81

Manure 17

Marginal treatment of pools.. .107, 108

Materials for pergolas 115

Plant 83

Rapid growing plant 140

Medium Shrubs 123

trees 121

Montbretia 98

Monthly blooming Roses 92

Multiflora Roses 92

Narcissi 98

Natural hedges, Plants for 135

Natural style, The 5

Nitrate of soda 18

Overhanging rock 102

Overhead of Pergola 117

Outlet for drain 16

Path, Brick 37, 38

Paths 95

Construction oi..34, 35, 36, 37, 38

Peony. 68

Perennial border 93

Perennials, Arrangement of 95

Perennials, Planting 67, 95

Protecting herbaceous 78

Pergola 85, 113

Single post 113, 114, 115

Specifications 117

Uses of 110, 112

176

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

PAGE

Picturesque Style 5

Pitch-face ashler wall 44

Plan of athletic field 120

Plan, The planting 53

Plans for a border 92,94,96

Plant a tree, How to 63

Plant, Depth to 68

Plant materials and their use 49

Proportions of 79

Planting Alpine plants 103

a Rock Garden 103

a Rose bush S8

a tree 66, 68, 70

Border 57

Distances for 48, 50

Effective shrubbery 57

Fall 68

Foundation 27, 60

Herbaceous perennials 67, 95

Objects of 49

Plan, the S2

Pools. 107

Principles of 62

Roses 89

Shrubs 67

Spring 68

the home grounds IV

with dynamite 65

Planting table for bulbs. 99

Plants for autumn coloring 139

for city conditions 141

for foundation planting 143

for rock gardens 145

Pointing brickwork 41

Polyantha Roses 93

Pool in a rock garden, A 104

Pools, Construction of. . .104, 105, 106,
107, 108

for Lilies 105

Formal 105

Planting 107

Poppy .....68, 79

Pot grown plants for rockeries 103

Potgrown Roses 90

Preparation of perennial beds 95

of rock garden 100

Primary colors 81

Principles of planting 62

Private area S2, 53

Privet 24, 48

Proportions of formal gardens 84

of plant materials 79

Protecting cut surfaces 74

Roses 89, 90

Protection, Trees for 56

PAGE

Pruning evergreens 76

flowering shrubs 74, 75, 76

hedges 76, 77

large limb 74

Reasons for 69

Results of 69

Root 70

Roses 91

Top 72

Vines 77

Public area, the 52, 53

Quarry-faced ashler wall 44

Quoin binder 41, 42

Quoits area 122

Raked joint 41

Raking, Importance of 17

Random ashler wall 44

Rapid growing plant materials 140

Red Cedar Ill, 113, 116

Retaining walls 42, 44, 45, 46

Roads, Diverging 19

Drainage of 39

Rock, Classes of 101

Overhanging 102

Rock Garden, The 99

Building a. 100, 102

Irrigation in the 104

Planting a 103

Rock Gardens, Plants for 146

Styles of 101

Rocks and Stones 101

Root pruning 65, 70

Rosa rubiginosa 91

rugosa 91

Rose bed 87

Preparation of 88

Rose bush. Planting a 88

Rose gardens 87

Rose Society, American 93

Roses, Budded 89

Planting 89

Protecting 78, 87, 90

Pruning 91

Soil for 89

Rubble wall... 44

Running Water in the Garden 108

Rustic garden seat 109

Rustic pergola 116

Rye 18

Rye grass, Italian 21

Saving valuable trees 14, 15

Saxifragas 103

Screens, Plants for 134

Seashore, Plants for the 133

INDEX

177

PAGE

Seats, Garden 85, 109, 111

Seeding the Lawn 19

Semi-public area, The 53

Service area, The 52, 53

Service drive 27, 30

Settings for a sundial Ill

Shade, Trees for 56

Shaded situations, Plants for 129

Shape of formal gardens 83

Shrub Roses 91

Shrubbery border 2

Shrubbery groups 18, 61, 62

Shrubbery planting. Effective 57

Shrubs, Berry bearing 137

Dwarf 127

Medium 123

Planting 67

Protecting 78

Pruning flowering 74

Small.. ....125

Succession of bloom in flowering. . 148

Tall 121

with colored bark 141

Single post pergola 113, 114, 115

Site for Rose gardens 87

House 6

Size of formal gardens 83

Sky line effects. Plants for 136

Small flowering Trees 139

Small shrubs 125

Small trees 121

Soccer football field 128

Soil for rock garden 100

for Roses 89

preparation 17

Soy Beans 18

Specifications of brick work 43

of pergola 117

Spiraea Vanhouttei 81

Spring planting 68

Spring flowering shrubs. Pruning... . 75

Spruces 104

Standard Roses, Protecting 90

Stepping-stones 27, 30, .32, 35

Stone walls 44

Stratified stone 101

Street trees 142

Stretchers 41

Styles of rock gardens 101

Sub-grade, The 9

Subsoil grading 7

Subirrigation in dry walls 47

Suburban lot, Grading the //

Subwall, The 41

PAGE
Succession of bloom in flowering

shows 148

Summer flowering shrubs. Pruning.. 75

Summer houses 109, 111

Summer pinching 70

Sundials 85, 109

Superwall 41

Surcharged face wall 42

Tall shrubs 121

Tea Roses 92

Tennis courts 122

Terminus, The garden 85

Terrace 10, 13

Top pruning 72, 73

Topiary work 74

Transplanting trees 65, 71

Tree, Guying a 64, 69

How to Plant a 63, 66, 68

in Winter, Moving large 71

Tree planting. Dynamite in 69

Trees, Berry bearing 137

Grading to save old 14

Groups of 18, 61, 65

Large 119

Medium 121

Protecting 78

Saving valuable 14, 15

Small 121

Street or avenue 142

Transplanting wild 65

Types of 64

Use of 54, 55

with colored bark 141

with colored foliage 139

Tufa stone 102

Turf walk 88

Turn-around 27, 28, 31, 32

Types of trees 64

Unity in Design 3

Use of Trees 54, 55

Uses of pergola 110, 112

Value of color 81

Variegated foliage. Trees and shrubs

with 139

Variety in design 3

Varieties, Selection of Rose 93

Vetch, Hairy 18

Vines for various purposes 145

Protecting 79

Pruning 77

Vistas 62

Voussoir 41

178

THE COMPLETE HOME LANDSCAPE

PAGE

Walk, A branching 63

Walk arrangements. .21, 22, 23, 24, 25,
26, 27, 28, 30

Walks, Drives and 25

Kinds of 31

Stone 35, 36

Wall building. Terms used in 41

Wall construction, Brick 41

Wall, Dry 45, 47

Walls.... 41, 42

Retaining 45

Water Gardens 105

Water Lilies 105, 107, 108

Water Plants 146

Water supply for pools 105

Waterbound macadam drive 36

PAGE

Waterfall with pool 107

"Weak holes" in walls 44, 45

Wet places. Plants for 132

White Birches 81

Wild trees, Transplanting 65

Width of perennial beds 95

of Rose beds 88

Wichuraiana Roses 92

Windbreaks 56

Plants for 134

Winter cover crop 18

Moving trees in 65

protection 78

Transplanting tree in 71

Wintering Water Lilies 107

Wood Meadow Grass 21

J^. Stflte csm