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Hisimaeeds eae ed Fuga aat ’ a ie "7 Woy trace a Ce 0 Be rt oe a i ale atl tus ca Prat oa gy! odya5 eyes: yey whos s] tyssg gate sce ae ; cal aies a tiy al ‘t Pejedaas wine au gents tty net it eh of rw a 4 * rhe Pa Ue rant * ; j y ‘na? De ; A ape i ae Vt ty i Wo ho A, Nps aot bei ty wis ihe n Ym) . iW J A COMPLETE MANUAL FOR THE Cultivation of the Strawberry: WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE BEST VARIETIES. ALSO, NOTICES OF THE RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY, CRANBERRY, CURRANT, GOOSEBERRY, AND GRAPE; WITH DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR CULTIVATION, AND THE SELECTION 0% THE BEST VARIETIES, * Every process here recommended has been proved, the plans of others tried, and the result is here given.” SIXTH EDITION. ' AX “ BY RY’Go\PARDEE. WITH A VALUABLE APPENDIX, CONTAINING THE OBSERVATIONS AND EXPERIENCE OF SOME OF THE MOST £UCCESSFUL CULTIVATORS OF THESE FRUITS IN OUR COUNTRY. NEW YORK: A. 0. MOORE, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER, (LATE ©. M. SAXTON & CO.,) NO. £46 FULTON 8 TRENT: S58. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856, by C. Me SAXTONW & ‘CO. fn the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District ot New York. = = eee Louward ©. Ienkins,.riater, No. 26 FRANKFORT STREEF we | C Ontents. eee PREFACE TO THE THmRD REVISED EDITION.............0eec00- me PRE: a a toe 28 ae lela. id etl iON eee ds lo Brdieaalala caine ei 3 ES TS 15, ae ee a ae Re Ree yA, Ses SP 13 PAULIN, BE Citta: 2 oe Shera is Mein wee Sete ciate teen oe ore lete pale saa 17 Pee eno p RINE EGE °C 2's. ‘ch. she sptulsiawin some ot cab a's waa c WAAR 18 PYCpeeAgO OL BO ooo kes he goa aw Dip te s Peete ae 19 RIG IROE Foi. cise bo sine aes ae Ho See aee eae Fe miihe Ce eate nae sarte tas 21 Transplanting (Time and Manner Of). 2s.c0e.sevestenesacees 25 BMG ak ore anor aa 8 sya oe air ts he he Bauhaus hs ogi amen 39 WOR ee Lt ss anit wchpe week a ek sae eS We aioe a aan eee Satie, oat Guitiwameess oS 3.4 3 o.0 eae SUM a ehcp am 6 aU mene a ae mie eats pase Yield Culture Wchehdi. < teiabigh ote Wis Ca: Wie WE eae a MES edhe Gee ae Sale Am 34 PPOGIEUUR, jc ae Voc s one vee bate aleiatts SA Page wis e.a il, tn de a ge eee 39 Pemewat OF BeOS gos s0n's Sse ann 8 tarde we As ee er ee 42 Winter Protection. .... Siew Sil aint Se Talia 9 pte cis a we Sse ee 43 ME Uso ae Nas gate uind vemmwk Ste Leet Bala Fae ale SRC 48 POMPE Rick, elk earch, « oe o Pets see ae eee CLE RS ee 53 Seedlings ....... Bo ah Linu LESS eRe OE wu a ea ee Rane iinet 57 Conner. Tih a Ges shee aie gate FEED tie eT SS yiieks 58 Selection oF Vakieties:<... ao.06s eases es See ph eid, a tihng es . 60 McAvoy’s Superior—Hovey’s Seedling—Monroe Scarlet— Burr’s New Pinc—Longworth’s Prolific—Walker’s Seed- ling—MeAvoy's Extra Red —Jenney’s Seedling—Moyamen- sing Pine—Large Early Searlet—Crimson Cone—lowa— Rival. Hudson—Genesee Seedling—Willey—Princess Alice Maude—Boston Pine—Black Prince—Lizzie Randolph— Swainstone Seedling—Myatt’s British Queen— Large White Bicton Pine—Barr’s New White—Prolific Hautboy. (8) lv CONTENTS. PAGE Analysis of the Strawberry Fruit and Plant................. 79 POMPOM Se kek Avie. oa pmestnee AID wee ties eee a ate ees 81 Fastolf— Franconi— Red and Yellow Antwerp — Knevett’s Giant — Large-fruited Monthly — Ohio Ever-bearing. PIAGREEER 6 sus 5 SOR ES eee ee 88 White—Improved High Bush—New Rochelle. AES Mal sacrs do0 Ths e'e Gaeta fasta tatate> “ald gle See ahaa ate alee oa 94 Black. SOUVREANIE SOE AS (5io8 os che Sacel weas oak 3 dias SRR IS ta oR Ran ere 95 Black Naples—White and Red Dutch—White and Red Grape —Cherry—May Victoria—Knight’s Sweet Red—Largest White Provence. Goosrpurry Ried ace fe Sante tote nip io spt u UR erm ay sta AS Sa sr ee 99 Crompton’s Sheba Queen—Woodward’s Whitesmith—Roar- ing Lion—Crown Bob—Houghton’s Seedling, &c. RE NEB a, wie: a. cig ce sSie ge js ARS OES ek OS OS AD Sa oO a ome amt 104 Isabella — Catawba — Clinton — Concord — Diana — Black Madeira, &c. APPENDIX. Peabody on Ever-hearing Strawberries...........eeeeeeeeees lil Peabody’ sUetier t0/R. G. Pardee. 24) sie vavaan Saeed 111 Henteman’s Experiments. os. 5.6 66. ss betes ce wo echt ae aoa 121 beng worth’s-Lettier to R. Gs Pardee... Cincinnati 11 to 14,000 “ We are assured that New York City received many days more than 500,000 baskets, or over 3,000 bushels for its own consumption ,and for the supply of its sub- urbs.. A single county in New Jersey from a single port, over twenty-five miles distant, sent us by steam- 40 PRODUCTION. boats during one day last season 200,000 baskets; and several years ago the superintendent of the Erie R. R. certified to the secretary, Mr. Marsh, that the evening train of that day brought in 893 bushels strawberries. From all sources during the season we could have received scarcely less than 8,000,000 baskets, which at an average wholesale price of 24 cents per basket, (five baskets to the quart) would make an aggregate of $200,000. It should be remembered that much of the supply of Brooklyn comes through the New York market. Some single farmers around New York are cultivat- ing thirty or more acres. Cincinnati reported 9,000 bushels strawberries in their market in 1851 or 62. We cannot learn that the common crop of the straw- berry either around New York, Philadelphia, Boston or Cincinnati actually exceeds twenty-five to fifty bushels per acre, although we have instances reported around all the cities of 100 bushels, and even 130 to 140 bushels having been produced on an acre, or in that proportion; so that the returns given in to us of the avails varies from $100 to $800 per acre, and the prices obtained ranges from 121 cents up to $1 50 per quart. The latter price for the very earliest taken into Washington City from the vicinity. The ordinary re- turn for an acre, in order to be satisfactory to the growers, we are told is $200; and the expense of cul- PRODUCTION. 41 tivating $15 to $25 per acre, with an additional expense of one cent per basket, or $1 50 per bushel for picking. It will thus be seen that in order to supply New York and vicinity with strawberries, about 1,500 acres of the choicest land in the vicinity is at present re- quired, and the other cities named about 500 acres each in proportion; which is at least four times as much land as is either appropriate or necessary for the object, if the nature and cultivation of the strawberry was only as well understood as the raising of corn. A crop of 80 bushels of strawberries to the acre, is only about equal in proportion to a corn crop of 10 bushels on the same ground. We seldom see a large strawberry plantation which after the first year has not many more plants on the ground than can get light and air sufficient to fruit weil. The consequence is, that our city markets are mainly supplied with inferior fruit, simply because some of the commonest kinds will pro- duce a little, dwarfed, sour fruit, even under the worst treatment. Superior well-grown fruit will easily pro- duce twice and four times as much to the acre, and command from twice to four times larger prices in our city markets. Making the avails and the dif ference from the same land, to be 25 bushels at 121 cents per quart, or at least 125 bushels at 25 cents per quart, or $1,000 or $100 per acre. In one instance the net profits exceed $800, and in the others very little, if 492 RENEWAL OF BEDS. any. One hundred and twenty-five bushels oughi to be only an ordinary crop, and $1,000 the product of any fair acre of land. We have often had small plots of ground produce in the ratio of twice that amount. A writer in 1854 in the May number of the Albany Cultivator, from the old soul of West Haven, Connec- ticut, certifies to having realized $215 from the sales of strawberries from 25 rods of ground, or at the rate of $1,300 per acre! In Hovey’s Magazine, 1852, it is stated that Mr. Gore, of Maine, raised on a bed 11 by 48 feet at the rate of full 800 bushels per acre. How long in common fairness ought men to enjoy the stewardship of our choice land that is capable of producing such results, when they only equal one-thirteenth part of that amount! We would not dispossess them of their rights, but we beg of them to place the occupation of the land by sale or otherwise in more capable and effi- cient hands. RENEWAL OF BEDS. This should be done once in three or four years, and the same ground should be planted with corn or potatoes for one season, and receive an application of lime, ashes, and salt, as advised in the article on the WINTER PROTECTION. 43 preparation of the ground, before it 1s again used for strawberries. ‘The bed might be made to bear well, by a careful renewal of the old plants by their run- ners, for ten or a dozen years, but this would require rather more skill in cultivation than most persons possess. Every year or two, if a strong runner has struck itself beside an old plant, we pull up the old plant in- stead of the runner, and are constantly thus renewing them. We always leave the best plants. The field cultivator has only to clean off the weeds, and prepare the soil in the spaces of three feet between the rows; allow the runners to cover that ground; then drive the cultivator or plough through, turning under the old row of plants; thin out the new ones to proper distances, and his system of renewal is complete. WINTER PROTECTION. Our experience is in favor of a slight winter protec- tion. It costs comparatively but little time or expense, on the approach of severe winter weather, to hastily scatter a thin coat of straw or old leaves over the plants; and they come out in so much better condition in the spring, and even the hardiest kinds bear so much better crops for it, thas we never neglect it. Like mulching, almost any thing free from weeds, that 44 WINTER PROTECTION. will not smother them or mildew, will answer the purpose, but clean straw is preferable, except they need the decaying leaves. Some years ago, we had an aged neighbor, who stood almost unrivalled in the cultivation of the straw- berry. One season he set out, on the first of July, about one-fourth of an acre of fine Hovey’s Seedlings. He almost constantly and carefully worked among them with the hoe, the rake, and water-pot, and I never saw a plot of so fine strawberry-plants as these had become on the approach of winter. The old man was ‘‘ very much set in his way,” and among the things his creed discarded, was mulching strawberries; so, against my repeated remonstrances, he left them for the winter without mulching, with his usual preparation, which consisted in placing a hualf- inch deep’of good earth around each plant, in a circuit, to the width of six or eight inches, leaving the surface, scolloped inwards towards the centre of the plant. The winter proved a severe one, and the old man was saddened in the spring, to find his fine plants drawn out of the ground to the length of three and four inches, and laid flat on the earth. One-tenth part of the labor he bestowed in hilling his plants for winter, appropriated to covering them with a little loose straw, would have saved them all. EVER-BEARING STRAWBERRIES. 45 EVER-BEARING STRAWBERRIES: The Bush Alpines have always borne a succession of crops during the season, when planted in the north- ern shade of a fence, and well taken care of, watered, mulched, Xe. Some three or four years ago, the New Orleans Pica- yune announced that Mr. Henry Lawrence, a gentle- man of that city, had succeeded in obtaining a seed- ling, called the “ Crescent Seedling,” which bore an abundance of large fruit for a continuous period of six or eight months or more, from March to December. We wrote to Mr. Lawrence, and his answer confirmed all the paper had stated; and he sent us in succession four or five different importations of plants of the Crescent Seedling, by the steamer and otherwise, until at last we succeeded in causing them to grow, and awaited their bearing seasen, when, alas! they only bore a moderate crop, and ceased bearing as early as any other variety in our ground; thus proving a failure, as far as perpetual bearing was concerned, under our ordinary mode of cultivation. The plant has extraordinary vigor, a rampant staminate, exceed- ing all varieties we hrve ever seen in multiplying its runners. The experiment convinced us that it was 46 EVER-BEARING STRAWBERRIES. not the variety, so much as the cultivation, and soil and climate, which gave it its continual bearing pro- perties. Some experiments since made with this va- riety, in soils so reduced as to be little else than coarse sand, favor this idea. Mr. Lawrence wrote me at the first, that he reduced his soil by three-fourths of pure river-sand; and, although I reduced my garden-soil considerably, yet it remained still very much too rich for the Crescent Seedling to develop its perpetual pro- perties. The various experiments, however, were by no means lost. About this time, it was announced by the press that Charles A. Peabody, Esq., the horticultural editor of the Soil of the South, near Columbus, Georgia, had suc- ceeded, by reducing the soil, and with plenty of water, in making two well-known northern varieties—the Large Harly Scarlet, and Hovey’s Seedling—develop perpetual bearing qualities under the hot summer’s sun in Georgia, furnishing fruit in quantities, from March till January. If this was the case in Georgia and New Orleans, could we not hope, by similar means, to extend our strawberry season north, during the months of July, August, into September? In October last, in an interview with Mr. Peabody, he gave it as his deliberate opinion that, by the process he detailed and pursued, we could easily have an abundance of fruit from our strawberry vines until frost came. We take EVER-BEARING STRAWBERRIES. AT pleasure in inserting Mr. Peabody’s plan and directions in full, in his interesting articles, in the Appendix, A. On the 20th December last, Mr. Peabody took up a few plants in fruit from his garden, and placed them, with the soil attached, in a basket, and sent them by express to Messrs. J. M. Thorburn & Co., 13 John street, New York. On their arrival, on Christmas Day, they were well loaded with large, ripe Hovey’s and Early Scarlets, together with a large variety of green fruit, of all sizes, from that of a pea upwards to full-grown berries. They remained on exhibition in their windows some two weeks, when they were politely handed to us, and we had them potted in a greenhouse, with soil composed mostly of sand. The plants all grew finely; in March they came into blos- som, and in May into ripe fruit. The foliage was very small, but healthy. They continued in blossom and bearing during the months of May, June, and July, without sending out a single runner, and some of the plants at the present time (the 14th of August) are in blossom, and have not started a runner. On one of the pots which had no runners started, we placed a very little rich soil, and in a week the plant threw up vigorous runners, caused by the slight addition to the richness of the soil. The inference we draw from all this is, that no variety is ever-bearing under our usual manner ot 48 SEXUAL CHARACTER. treatment, but that most kinds can be so trained, that, with a soil reduced largely enough with sand, and only vegetable manures applied, and plenty of water, and mulching when needed, they will continue to pro- duce fruit until the approach of frost. The whole tendency of our experiments in strawberries is in this direction. Professor Page has, in Washington City, it is stated, induced the Alice Maude to adopt the ever- bearing habit. E. P. Brooks, Esq., of Elmira, N. Y., had the Hautboys in bearing in the open garden in September and even in December, 1855. Amateurs and others will do well to try the experi- ment on a small scale, until they perfectly succeed ; and then the large price of a dollar or more per quart, which the markets of New York, Boston, and Phila- delphia will pay for such fruits in August, will amply repay for the production on a large scale. Learn well, by observation, all the habits and tendencies of the strawberry in this regard, and we think the thing can be easily accomplished. SEXUAL CHARACTER. We now come to the great battle-ground of the giants, but will not enter the lists, if we may be per- mitted to quietly state a few things as our opinion, withent intending to reflect upon, or haying even re- SEXUAL CHARACTER. 49 mote reference to, any persons. It is very easy to see the manner in which some have been led into error, viz.: the mixture, well-nigh universal, of different kinds of strawberries—an error productive of untold injury to successful cultivation. We have never seen two kinds of strawberry that might safely run in the same bed. On no account suffer it. The poorest kind will multiply its runners the most rapidly, and drive the well-bearing plants from the bed; particularly is this the case, where that poor kind is a staminate. We think the direction given by the late Mr. Downing and others, to place the staminates on each end of the same bed, with the pistillates in the centre, an unfortunate one, for the beds and the plants are usually very soon destroyed in that way. We are very particular to place our staminates a greater distance from the pistil- lates: if 80 feet to 60 feet off, it is better. The bees and wind carry the pollen, and opposite sides of the garden, if the distance is 100 feet, will, we think, be found pear enough to answer the same purpose. Neither would we allow pistillates, such as Hovey’s Seedling and Burr’s New Pine, to run together, but be very particular to keep each kind distinct and apart. We think it is Mr. Longworth who has stated, that if we place a single staminate plant, like the Large Karly Scarlet, in the centre of a productive bed of a pure pistillate. variety, in less than two or three years, 2 50 SEXUAL CHARACTER. that one plant will drive every good fruit-bearing plant out of the bed. This is one reason why so many strawberry beds foil after the first bearing season; so we repeat in the strongest manner, get pure plants—difficult, we know —and on no account permit any two kinds to run together ; place boards on edge between them, or in some way protect them from each other. After this episode on a very practical point, we may be permitted to say, there are strawberry plants we call staminate, because they exhibit to the eye very distinct stamens. Our plate will illustrate this. An- other kind we call pistillate, because the naked eye can discover developed in the blossom only the pistils. Most of our intelligent horticulturists assure us, that the best staminates will only produce a part of a fair crop of fruit, while the pistillate varieties will produce no perfect fruit at all, without being impregnated by some staminates in the vicinity; but when thus im- pregnated, the pistillates produce an abundance of the finest fruit. The interesting and accurate experiment of Mr. Huntsman, in the Appendix, C, sets this matter in a very clear light. Some of the staminates of recent introduction, like Walker's Seedling and Longworth’s Prolific, are so very desirable, that every cultivator should have one SEXUAL CHARACTER. 51 or both: it is, therefore, only important to notice the presence of the staminates in every collection of varie- ties, keep them distinct, and no sacrifice is required to conform to this theory, which seems to be -pretty universally established. Mr. Longworth’s article in the Appendix, D, gives an interesting account of its discovery. Another series of plants are called Hermaphrodite— like Longworth’s Prolific—because both stamens and pistils are in a greater or less extent developed, and they are represented to bear well, being alone. © The great war that has raged so fiercely on the bor- ders of the strawberry kingdom during the past year or two, has been on the point, whether staminates ever cnange to pistillates, or vice versd. For many years we have noticed, with scrupulous care, these distinct characteristics of the various strawberries when in blossom, and we have never seen the first symptoms Fria. 1. Fra. 2. Fie 3. Fig. 1. A perfect flower furnished with stamens and pistils. a, the stamens, b, the pistils, hermaphrodite. Fig. 2. A staminate or male flower. Fig. 3. A pistillate or female flower. 52 SEXUAL CHARACTER. Fig. 4 Fig 4. Wastes flower, with a stamen and pistil detached. a, the anther. b, the filament. 7p, the pistil. of change in any variety. We do not know that a change in open-air cultivation is now much contended for from any quarter. We think the mixing of plants causes staminate and pistillate blossoms to be seen together. In forcing, we are told, by high authority; that some plants, like the melon, &c., change their sexual character, and why not the strawberry? We do not know that this point, that the strawberry does so, has yet been fully established. The English varieties are mostly staminates, and bear fruit of extraordinary size and flavor; but we think not in so large quantities as some of our pistil- lates. Certainly all the English staminates prove com- paratively only second-rate in our soil and climate. FORCING. .. 5a FORCING. On this point our experience is very limited, having been confined to small experiments during the past winter: we therefore give the best information we have been able to obtain, from the highest English authorities. In the London Gardener's Chronicle, edited in the Horticultural Department by Professor Lindley, we find the following directions from that most eminent horticulturist, Mr. Paxton : | ‘Select for this purpose, in the middle of August, a sufficient number of the best runners from approved kinds to have choice from, and plant them six inches apart, in beds, upon a strong border in adry and shel- tered situation. As soon as the leaves have withered, mulch them lightly with well-rotted manure, and if very severe weather occur, protect them for the time with fern or litter. They must be kept the following spring free from weeds and runners, removing also any flowers as they appear. ‘Towards the latter end of May or beginning of June, whenever dull or rainy weather may occur, remove them carefully into forty- eight-sized pots. It is optional with the grower, whether one, two, or three plants are put in one pot, 54 _ FORCING. according to his object being quality or quantity; but we, desiring fine fruit in preference to number, only place one of the strongest or two of the weaker in one pot, using enriched melon soil or turfy loam. Place them, when potted, in a situation where they can be readily shaded for a short time, and receive regular supplies of water if necessary. About the latter end of July, or early in August, these pots will be filled with roots, when the plants must be repotted into flat thirty-two-sized pots, usually termed strawberry pots, and at this time plunged in old tan or coal ashes. The best manner of plunging them we find to be, forming beds wide enough to contain five rows of pots, when plunged, upon a hard or gravelly surface, to prevent them rooting through, the sides supported by slabs of the same width as the depth of the pots, and filling them up with old tan or ashes; the plants remain here until wanted to take in, and are easily protected from severe frosts. It will be found an excellent plan to preserve the latest forced plants, which are not much exhausted, for forcing the first the next season; these, from their long period of rest, and well-ripened buds, are predisposed to break earlier and stronger than the others; some of them, if the autumn is moist, will be excited, and produce flowers, which must be imme- diately pinched out; they should have their balls carefully reduced, and be repotted in larger pots early FORCING. 5d in August, protecting them froin the late autumnal rains, and from frost.” ‘For succession,” Mr. Paxton says, “strong runners are taken up in September, and planted about six inches apart, in manured and well-prepared beds, four feet wide, in a somewhat sheltered situation; there they are allowed to remain until the following July, during which period they must be kept very clean from weeds, have the flowers and runners regularly pinched off, and be watered whenever likely to suffer from drought. About the middle of July they are potted in small thirty-two-sized pots, two plants in a pot, taking the greatest care that neither roots nor leaves are damaged in the operation, and an important part of it is to press the earth firmly about them; the soil used is two parts loam to one of well-rotted dung. Beds which will hold five or six rows of pots are then formed in the following manner: Level the surface of the ground, and spread upon it a layer of coal ashes; above which must be nailed firmly slabs, or any rough boards, as wide as the depth of the pots, which are then to be plunged to the rim in spent bark or ashes. All that they will here require is attention to watering when necessary, and a slight protection with fern, or other light covering, during severe frosty weather. I always preserved from 300 to 400 of the latest forced plants of the above description, and after having care- 56 FORCING. fully reduced their balls, repot them in large thirty- two-sized pots in July, treating them afterwards pre- cisely as the others. I find these, by having their buds formed early, (through the slightest forcing they have received), and becoming very strong, are admirably adapted for the first crop, and always repay me for the extra trouble. Begin forcing with a temperature of 40°, increasing to 50° when in bloom, and to 55° when ripening.” : “Mr. Brown, gardener to Lord Southampton, at Whittlebury Lodge, near Towcester, says, that Mr. Paxton’s method of preparing strawberry plants for forcing is a good one where time and trouble are of no consequence: but for the last fifteen years he has adopted a plan which answers well, and by which good strong plants are procured in one month from the present year’s runners. ‘“'T'he compost used in good strong loam, well mixed with rotten dung from the hot-bed linings; twenty- four-sized pots are the best for Keene’s Seedlings, and thirty-twos for Grove End Scarlets. The latter variety answers for early forcing better than any other sort, when strawberries are wanted by the end of March. ‘Having filled the pots with the compost, they are removed at once to the strawberry quarters, and ar- ranged on each side of the rows, among the runners. The middle of July, when the plants are emitting SEEDLINGS. 57 roots, is the proper time to begin the operation of layer- ing: having previously prepared a quantity of pegs, the runners that are rooted into the ground are carefully removed, and their roots inserted in the pots and pegged down. Put three plants into the twenty-four pots, and one in the thirty-twos; they immediately begin growing, being supported by the mother plant, and will only require occasional watering in dry weather. “When the plants are well rooted, which is in about one month, detach them from the old plants, and remove to their winter-quarters. “Beds are prepared for them with a bottom of coal ashes, and they are plunged in old tan; each bed sur- rounded with a stratum of coal ashes six inches wide, and as high as the top of the pots, which prevents worms from working amongst them.” SEEDLINGS. Since the introduction of Hovey’s Seedling, this department of strawberry culture has had new life and vigor infused into it, and has resulted in affording high gratification to those engaged in it, and proved of decided benefit to our country. This fruit is so soon and so easily raiscd from seed, that the process invites to a very attractive series of 3* 58 CLASSIFICATION. experiments. Almost any one can experiment in a small way; and the person who shall produce a strawberry of the size of Hovey’s Seedling, or of the size and productiveness of McAvoy’s Extra Red, com- bined with the exquisite flavor of Burr’s New Pine, will be a benefactor. Perhaps the easiest way is to select the largest ripe berries of the best class of pistillates, raised in close proximity to one of the best staminates, and crush them in a bed of pure sand, mix them, and let the seeds dry and ripen for two weeks or a month; then sow them in light soil, in a partially shaded spot in the garden, carefully water, and in winter protect them with a covering of straw; in spring transplant them, one plant in a place two feet apart; carefully remove all runners until the plants have borne; select the best for further trial, and throw the rest away. A better way, if convenient, is to sow the seeds and sand in a cold frame, provided in a northern exposure, and transplant as above directed. CLASSIFICATION. Mr. Elliott says, ‘‘ Authors have classed the straw- berry as SCARLETS, the original type being our wild strawberry; PINES originating from the Pine or Surinam strawberry; Woops and ALPINEs from the CLASSIFICATION. 59 common wood strawberry of Hurope; Hautsots, or Migh-wood from Bohemia; CHILI, from South America. “The SCARLETS are designated in their character by small flowers; long, thin, light-green, sharply serrate leaves; acid or sub-acid fruit, of bright scarlet color, with seeds deeply imbedded.” The Large Early Scar- let, Methven, Duke of Kent, and others, are of this class, and yet the flowers of the first two are rather large. ‘The PINES are designated by large flowers; broad, dark-green leaves; fruit of pineapple flavor, and gene- rally soft in texture; seeds slightly imbedded.” Hovey’s, Black Prince, Burr’s New Pine, British Queen, &c., are of this class, and yet Hovey’s and New Pine have quite small flowers: the two others are large. “The ALPINES and Woops have small flowers, per- fect in their organs; small, thin, light-green leaves; fruit small, sweet, and separating freely from the calyx. ‘The Haurgpois have large, pale-green leaves, on tall foot-stalks, the fruit-stallx tall and erect, the fruit of a dull red or purplish color. “The CHIL, designated by hairy, thick, obtusely serrate leaves, fruit pale red and insipid. “The GREEN Strawberries have light-green foliage, plaited fruit, solid flesh, so unworthy cultivation as rarely to be found in this country. 60 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. “We have dropped the arrangement into classes in order.” The above classification is a distinct one, but we do not think quite correct, neither can we find or make one that is both distinct and correct, SELECTION OF VARIETIES. This is a point of no small difficulty. One person wishes only the finest flavored varieties for his own table, of which Burr’s New Pine and Swainstone’s Seedling are the head; another wishes all the showy and fancy varieties, such as the Bicton Pine, Black Prince, Alice Maude, &c.; another, still, cultivates for market, and wants large, bright-colored, solid-fleshed, productive fruit, like McAvoy’s Extra Red, Moya- mensing Pine, and Walker’s Seedling. Again, the manner of the cultivation of some persons will con- form to some varieties, and be opposed to others, per- haps superior; or some soils and climates are naturally adapted to some varieties, and unadapted to others, so that the custom we have adopted in years past, we would recommend to those going into the cultivation of the strawberry, viz.: Obtain a plant or two of several of the best varieties named, and cultivate them experimentally for two or three years, and then select the most successful ones and discard the others oe CULTIVATION OF VARIETIES. 61 Another difficulty arises from the new developments constantly making, which tends to exalt a neglected variety in some sections of our country, and depress a favorite one in other parts, so that we shall, it is pro- bable, in future editions take the liberty of amending or changing our opinions respecting some of the differ- ent varieties named, as time and enlarged experience shall demand. Another point of delicacy still arises, from the fact that many of our friends have produced seedlings of which they think and speak in the highest terms; but from what little we have seen of them, and their trial being almost exclusively in the hands of the origina- tors, we do not feel authorized to spéak of them pro or con; besides, many seedlings are constantly pro- duced by our nurserymen, some good, and many not so good, who cultivate them frequently, as they do their plants for sale, in crowded beds or even in com- pact masses, or in the partial shade of trees or shrub- bery, on old soil, so that their mode of trial is often of little value in developing or determining the real character of the plant. Some varieties we do not name will doubtless prove superior, and we would not intimate that some of the varieties we are not acquainted with may not prove of the first class. We shall speak mainly and freely our own experi 62 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. ence and observations of the peculiarities of the differ- ent kinds as manifested to us during the last ten or twelve years or less, and in a plain, distinct manner, give our present views of them, not being confined to or having much reference to the usual condensed po- mological descriptions or classifications, which we think are not so important to the popular mind, and we are not writing a work to instruct botanists or learned pomologists. -The first six varieties named and described would, ‘all things considered, be our first choice in a selection confined to that number. The next twelve will follow very nearly, not entirely, in their regular order as our next choice, reference being had to the particular de- scriptions for the prominent characteristics of each, as fitted for the amateur, the family, or the market-man. MCAVOY’S SUPERIOR, The new $100 prize seedling of the Cincinnati Horti- cultural Society in 1851. It was originated in that city by Mr. D. McAvoy, in 1848, on loamy clay soil underlaid with limestone, and was called out by the offer of a premium of $100 by that Society, at the instance of that energetic horticulturist, Nicholas Longworth, Esq., for a pistillate strawberry which should prove, on a four years’ trial, to surpass all other known varieties in size, flavor, an1 productiveness. SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 63 McAVOY’S SUPERIOR. Fie. 2 The committee concluding that this fulfilled the condi- tions, reported in its favor, and the report was adopted by the Society. In September, 1851, we obtained two plants, and in so faras our observation of it las ex- tended in our own and several other gardens, in differ- ent portions of our country it is superior, in average size and productiveness, to any other variety we have seen; and while it is good, and when properly ripened of high flavor and delicious, yet we do not think it equals, much less surpasses, Burr’s New Pine in flavor. It is pistillate, hardy, vigorous, dark serrated leaf, long foot-stalks, trusses of fruit full and usually well formed, but occasionally a berry not entirely filled out; the runners are not so numerous as to be troublesome 6. SELECTION OF VARIETIES. fruit very large, often over five inches in circumference, ich dark color until over-ripe; irregular, conical, roundish ; large seeds, slightly sunk; flesh crimson and white, tender, juicy, with a core of rather open and coarse texture. Ripens medium season, and rather too tender for a market fruit, except for short carriage distance. HOVEY’S SEEDLING. This has been truly called a noble fruit, and is an honor to the originator, Mr. C. M. Hovey, of Boston. It has undoubtedly taken more prizes in the various Horticultural Exhibitions of our country, from Maine to Louisiana, than any other variety, and it retains the same position at the present time, although it is not equal in flavor to Burr’s New Pine and others, or of the average size of MeAvoy’s Superior and some other varieties; and in almost every quarter, we hear more or less complaints of its fickleness in bearing, mingled with the strongest approvals of its productiveness. Notwithstanding all murmurs, its flavor is good when well ripened; it is too often picked and tasted when first colored and unripe; and some of its berries so surpass all other varieties in size—often five and six and sometimes over ezght inches in circumference— as to carry along the judges at our exhibitions; and the size under good cultivation always proves satisfactory. SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 65 Fig. 3. We have, in times past, been embarrassed by its failure in bearing, but we are inclined to think it was in a great measure owing to our want of knowledge of its habits, and consequently erroneous cultivation. It 66 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. requires a great deal of water, or moist soil, and will not bear so rich soil as Boston Pine and many other kinds; and the simple reduction of the soil to the com- mon grade has sometimes changed the barren into pro- ductive plants. It originated in 18384. The vines are vigorous, leaves large in rich soil, rather light green, and fruit-stalks are of good length. Fruit is very large, roundish-oval, conical ; color, rich scarlet ; seeds slightly imbedded; firm flesh; well adapted for market, and of medium season; flowers pistillate. MONROE SCARLET. This variety has not been .so-extensively known or so largely tested as Hovey’s Seedling and Burr’s New Pine. It originated in Rochester by those enterprising nurserymen, Messrs. Elwanger & Barry, and was first exhibited by them at the June meeting of the ‘ Horti- cultural Society of the Valley of the Genesee,” we think in 1850, where we first saw it, and took a plant home with us. We introduce it in this connection, because we think it will prove remarkably productive. Such has been the case in our trials of it; it has uniformly surpassed all others in bearing. We have counted over seventy ripe berries of good size, the largest measuring four and three-fourths inches in circumference at one time, on a single plant less than one year old. A friend SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 67 south of Washington City, to whom we sent a few gen- uine plants a year or two ago, writes: ‘‘ Monroe Scarlet proved with me last season exceedingly productive, and nearly covered the entire surface of the ground with trusses of fruit. It is a decided acquisition.” We are aware that the Alpines, and some other kinds, will produce many berries in a single hill, but they are very small fruit, and will not produce near the quantity. Itis a hybrid of Hovey’s Seedling and the Duke of Kent. The plant is very vigorous: pistillate; fruit large, roundish, short neck, and beautiful, of good fair flavor, hard flesh, a long bearer, and good for market; does well partially shaded. BURR’S NEW PINE. S This variety originated in Colum- bus, Ohio, in 1846, on a clay soil, and is remarkable for its agreeable, delicious, aromatic flavor, surpassing all other. varieties; and also for its early bearing and uniform pro- ductiveness. It is usually of large medium size, although we have seen on: exhibition large dishes: of fruit... 27*5 #7 Po measuring nearly four inches in circumference, and have measured single specimens from our own garden full four and a quarter inches; and when thus well 68 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. grown, and on exhibition, it will bear off the first prize from Hovey’s Seedling, and all other varieties ; yet it is, under ordinary eultivation, nearer the size of three incMes in circumference. It is a great favorite with families of exquisite taste, either for the hand or for the table, and we have proved it to be the earliest of sixty varieties in the same garden to ripen its fruit, and one of the latest to cease bearing; and occasional plants have produced a small second crop in the au- tumn, while standing without watering in the open garden. The fruit is large, round, conical and even; color, pale red; seeds very slightly sunk; flesh, whitish- pink, sweet, and too tender for a market fruit; quite productive, and berries perfect; the foliage is large, and the plant is vigorous and hardy. It is indispens- able for private gardens. Pistillate. LONGWORTH’S PROLIFIC. The two remaining plants of the first six are stami- nate, or hermaphrodite. This variety originated in Cincinnati at the same time with McAvoy’s Superior. Mr. Longworth furnished the seed for both plants to two cultivators, McAvoy and Schnecke, the former of whom produced the Superior, and the latter this variety, which at first was called ‘Schnecke’s Herma- phrodite,” but afterwards named by the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, ‘“Longworth’s Prolific,” in SELECTION OF VARIETIES. . 69 honor of Nicholas Longworth, Esq. It is a great favorite with the gentleman whose name it bears, who says “it will do what no other variety in this country or Hurope has ever - done—bear a full crop of good fruit standing alone.” In a note to Mr. Barry in the fall of 1853, he says, “You will find the Prolific of more value than all the seedlings ever raised.” Mr. Elliott, in his Guide, says, ‘For market culture we regard it of more value than McAvoy’s Superior ;” and we have heard Dr. Warder bear the same high testimony to its excellence. LONGWORTH’S PROLIFIC, It has been almost impossible to get the genuine variety. In our attempts, we have had repeated fail- ures, until, at last, Mr. D. McAvoy politely took up for us two plants, while in bearing, and enclosed them in a letter. The plants lived, and we have been ena- bled to experiment with them intelligently. We have also seen the genuine in a few other gardens, hundreds of miles apart, during the last two seasons; and every- where we have seen it, if it had a fair chance, it has done well. Many will, doubtless, discard ‘ Long- - worth’s Prolific,” who have only tried spurious kinds. Our limited experience will not enable us to speak 70 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. so decidedly as some of those we have quoted, yet we can say we are much pleased with it, and hope it will equal the high expectations excited; so far, it seems to excel any hermaphrodite of our acquaintance in size and productiveness, and is of good flavor. The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society had it on exhibi- tion from the garden of Caleb Cope, Esq., in 18538, and speak of it as “very large, roundish obovate, brillant crimson; seed of the same color, sometimes yellowish, set in rather deep indentations, with rounded inter- vals; flesh red, flavor fine, quality ‘very good,’ a variety of great exeellence, perfect in its sexual organ- ization, and remarkably productive, a rare circum- stance with staminate varieties of large size.” ‘The plant is very vigorous and hardy; large broad leaf, long foot-stalks, setting the fruit well up in large full trusses, productive and sure bearer; ripens at the medium season, and only loses its fine color when over-ripe. We have seen the fruit from four to five inches in circumference. WALKER’S SEEDLING. The last of the six we name above is also one of the new berries, not so extensively proved asyet. The Hon. Samuel Walker, ex-President of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, originated and sent it out some two or three years ago, when he politely sent us a SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 71 dozen plants for trial, which trial has been very satis- factory. ‘The society above-named has during the last season renewed its endorsement of it, and Mr. Barry, of Rochester, also approves it there. It is entirely distinct from all other kinds, and is a good honest fruit. In form it resembles the Large Early Scarlet, or more nearly the Crimson Cone, but rather larger than either; in color it is as dark crimson or purple as the Biack Prince. A vigorous, hardy, good staminate, of excel- lent flavor, “ best” quality, and productive; of medium season. McAVOY’S EXTRA RED. This is another of the new Ohio strawberries, origi- nated by Mr. Longworth in his garden, or by his tenant and gardener, Mr. D. McAvoy, at the same time with the Superior, which variety it appears in every respect to equal, except in flavor. The Fruit-Committee in Cincinnati report it as “large, beautiful and very pro- lific; quality medium, sub-acid not high-flavored.” We think it will prove a valuable market fruit: it is very vigorous and hardy; fruit large and handsome, and keeps well. We have seen it exhibited for forty- eight hours, after twenty miles land-carriage, when it remained the brightest and most showy fruit of forty choice varieties. ‘The Pennsylvania Horticultural So- ciety 1n 1858 pronounced it ‘ extraordimanly produe- 72 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. tive,” and quality “ good.” It is pistillate, and its only faults, as far as we are aware, are its acidity and its lack of high flavor, which we do not consider indispensable for a market fruit. JENNEY’S SEEDLING. This originated in New Bedford, about the year 1845: is of good size, high flavor; and has been highly recommended by the Massa- chusetts and other Horticultural Societies. We have successfully cultivated it for four or five years, and think its advantages are, its good fair size, bright handsome JRNNEY’S SEEDLING. color and form, sprightly rich flavor, lateness of season in bearing, and sound flesh, fitting it for a first-rate market fruit, or for preserving; its defects are, its not being the largest size and only a medium bearer. ‘The plant 1s vigorous, and blossoms pistillate. MOYAMENSING PINE It bore off the premium offered by the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society in 1848 for the best seedling strawberry exhibited that year, and is described as fol- lows: “Fruit rather large; roundish conical; deep crimson ; seeds crimson, set in rather deep depressions, SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 73 with rounded intervals; flesh red; flavor very fine; quality ‘best ;’ pistillate leaf, large, with crenate serra- tures.” We should not place the quality as high as “best,” although it is good. In New Jersey and Penn- sylvania it has the best reputation as a fine market fruit, and our experience confirms it. In fact, we are inclined to think that this variety and McAvoy’s Extra Red may prove among our best market kinds, and, as such, a great acquisition. That point, however, is not yet established. LARGE EARLY SCARLET. This has long been the standard staminate. It bears almost everywhere a tolerable crop with fair treatment. It is early, and, as we see from Mr. Peabody’s article in the Appendix, under his treatment has become a perpetual bearer. It is of medium size, handsome oval form, good—rather acid—flavor, and bears carriage to market tolerably well. | Its good qualities are its uniform, although not large productiveness, early season and good flavor; its de- fects, its want of size and of large productiveness, and its tendency to throw out an overgrowth of runners. It is valuable as an impregnator. CRIMSON CONE. | A very bright, handsome, brisk, acid fruit, of me- dium size, uniformly conical, rich dark crimson, and 4 74 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. quite productive. Its seeds liedeeply imbedded, giving the surface a beautiful rasp-like appearance. Its de- fects are, its second-rate size and acid flavor. It was always a favorite of Mr. Downing’s, who preferred its acid flavor for the table, bringing it to its proper tone by a liberal addition of sugar. It has supplied the New York market with more fruit the past season, we think, than all other varieties combined. The plant is very vigorous—blossoms pistillate, IOWA. The Iowa, or Washington as it is familiarly called in Cincinnati, is a wonderfully productive variety, good size, and well adapted for the market. Its lack of high flavor, and pale color, will prevent its becoming a favor- ite among amateurs. RIVAL HUDSON. A very productive market fruit, of only medium size, and rather acid flavor: popular near Rochester. A great bearer. A writer in the Cultivator revorts 133 ripe berries from a single root—pistillate. GENESEE SEEDLING. A large and very handsome fruit. It originated with Messrs. Elwanger & Barry. The plant is vigorous, with long stout foot-stalks, productive for a staminate, SELECTION OF VARIETIES. 15 and of good medium flavor. It seems to be growing in favor for private gardens. WILLEY. This is a great bearer of round, medium-sized fruit of pleasant, sprightly, although not high flavor. This and Monroe Scarlet are the only strawberries I have ever seen that bear apparently in clusters. It is not unusual for the Willey to produce sixty and seventy berries on a plant, and should never be cultivated in masses. It is solid enough for market, and its main defect is its size and second-rate flavor. PRINCESS ALICE MAUDE. A handsome, long, oval, English fruit, of large size, fair productiveness, and medium flavor. It is unique in appearance, very early, and in the vicinity of Washington City it has become very popular, Profes- sor Page having succeeded in inducing it to adopt the ever-bearing habit. Its main defects are moderate pro- _ ductiveness and want of high flavor. Staminate, and good for market. BOSTON PINE. A good staminate seedling of Mr. Hovey, of Boston, and for our own cultivation we should give it a very early place in our list; but with the mass of cultiva- tors it is not so popular. It wants the best clean culti- 76 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. vation, with every plant two feet apart from all others, and will bear richer soil than almost any other variety ; with such treatment it will produce a good crop of uniformly large, round, handsome fruit of high flavor. BLACK PRINCE. A large, handsome, very dark crimson or blackish- purple fruit, of English parentage and pistillate flowers. The plants are vigorous and hardy, quite productive, usually too watery and insipid in flavor, but some- times we have found it to be of the richest flavor. A few plants are worthy of a place in most private gardens. LIZZIE RANDOLPH. A very large, showy fruit, quite productive, but of such inferior flavor as to discourage its dissemination. It is pistillate, and originated in Philadelphia. SWAINSTONE SEEDLING. - An English staminate of the highest flavor and " great beauty, but unfortunately so fickle in its bearing habits as to drive it from all but the amateurs’ and a few of the best nurserymen’s gardens, MYATT’S BRITISH QUEEN A splendid English variety of the largest size and richest flavor, but unfortunately, in this country, so SELECTION OF VARIETIES. TT few of the blossoms ordinarily produce fruit, that it is in most places despaired of. It needs the best cultiva- tion, and the vlants should be allowed plenty of room for air. LARGE WHITE BICTON PINE. A new English staminate variety, of large hand- some fruit, long oval shape, sometimes flattened, of the highest flavor, white color, with a bright blush cheek on one side. It is quite a novelty, and proves to be more productive than was expected. It will find a place in most amateurs’ gardens in limited quantities. BARR’S NEW WHITE Is said to be superior to the above, but we have not yet tried it. In Boston it is spoken well of. A friend assures us it is superior to the Bicton Pine. PROLIFIC HAUTBOY. Prolific certainly of runners, so as greatly to injure its value, if it had no other defect; is a very vigorous plant, producing long, oval, purplish, dingy berries of a rich but very peculiar flavor, agreeable to some, but the reverse to others. It is staminate, but hardly desirable. We might continue this list, and enumerate full one hundred other varieties which we have had an opportunity of personally testing; but we cannot 78 SELECTION OF VARIETIES. name any variety possessing any superior quality, not possessed in an equal or larger degree by some of the best of those we have named; in fact, some of the varieties we have noticed are not equal to other varie- ties we might name, of our own seedlings and others ; and we have only referred to them because they are popular in many parts of the country, and supposed there to be a first-class fruit. Many of our horticultural friends and nurserymen may be disappointed that we have not referred more extensively to their favorites; in answer we say, we do not suppose them superior to some of those de- scribed. If they are, they will soon be extensively proved and noticed. Others, we do not personally know anything about, which are not merely recom- mended by individual originators, but Horticultural Societies of the highest authority; for instance, the new seedling ‘“ Pennsylvania,” of Philadelphia, and Scott’s Seedling, &e., of Boston, Hooker’s seedling of Rochester, and Lucy Fitch in the West. ps something is also due to soil and climate.—Eb. THE RASPBERRY. WHEN well-grown, and of the best varieties, this is one of our most wholesome and excellent fruits. It deserves a far more general and better cultivation than is usually given to it; and its free use, succeeding the strawberry, as it does, would doubtless conduce to the general health as well as luxury of the community. If grown without care, it is often small, hard, and with little good flavor; but when highly cultivated, it is large, melting, and delicious. It will repay the best care, and to very few fruits is this so indispensable as to the raspberry. A rather moist, cool location, on the north slope of a side-hill, or shade of a fence, is to be chosen; and the soil should be deep and rich. A deep loam is preferable, but other soils by the addition of bog earth or muck can be made to answer the purpose; it should be well broken up, trenched and pulverized to the depth of two feet, then enriched with well-rotted manure, vegetable, if convenient. 4% (81) 82 THE RASPBERRY. The plants should be shortened ten or twelve inches at the top, and set out very early in the spring, at a distance of three to four feet apart, not too deep, in pure earth, with a good proportion of the roots lying near the surface. Keep them clean, and well staked, with not more than three or four canes in a hill. On gather- ing of the fruit, cut out all the old decayed canes and leave not more than six, eight, or ten of the strongest ones in a hill to ripen for another season of bearing, one-half of which should be transplanted in the fol- lowing spring. On the first of September pinch back the most vigorous shoots, so as to check the flow of sap and ripen the wood. WINTER PROTECTION. The question of winter protection is a difficult and important one. The ordinary custom is to leave them exposed in the garden to the severity of winter, and, as a consequence, the FAsroLF, FRANCONIA, and TRUE ANTWERPS, are rendered almost worthless. Even in Kentucky, those choice varieties require winter protec- tion. ‘T’he easiest way is to bend the canes down and cover them slightly with earth. Some tie them up in a withe of straw, or evergreen boughs, but these are not always sufficient. WINTER PROTECTION. 83 We have sometimes taken up the plants in the fall, and buried them in sand, and on the earliest opening of spring set them out with care, and in this way have raised extraordinary crops; but we have not proved this last process so fully as to incur the responsibility of recommending it. It would require to be very care- fully done, so as to preserve all the fibrous roots, to- gether with the advantage of favorable soil, for it to succeed so well. The raspberry is used in a variety of ways, viz.: for the hand, the table, pies, tarts, jelly, jam, ices, syrups, brandy, wine, and vinegar. The profits of production are very large; often, in the vicinity of New York, selling for from $500 to $600 per acre. From Milton, Ulster County, it is said $10,000 worth is sent every year to New York market. The usual price is about one shilling per pint. They will continue in bearing some five or six years, but will not be in perfection, ordinarily, until the third year after planting. We will name but a few established varieties. Dr. Brincklé, of Philadelphia, and some others, have gained much credit with their fine seedlings, but how exten- sively they have been proved, or if any of them sur- pass the Fastolf, Franconia, Antwerp, &c., we are unable to say. The “ Colonel Wilder” and some other seed- lings are said to be perfectly hardy; and if that is the 84. THE RASPBERRY. case, and they prove equal in other respects, they will certainly be a decided acquisition. FASTOLF. This fine variety originated at Fastolf Castle, near Yarmouth, England, where it attained a high reputa- Re TRIS os BSwiyes ey7 THE FASTOLF. tion, which it has nobly sustained in this country. It is not quite so hard for a market fruit as the Ant- werp, but it is rather soft, and of rich high flavor, and VARIETIES. 85 the fruit is very large, of a bright purplish red, and is a large bearer. It requires winter protection. FRANCONI. This tine variety was said to be originally from France, but a few knowing ones insist that its advent was nearer home. However that may be, it is a valu- able kind, the most hardy of the large varieties which we refer to; produces most abundant crops of fine fruit, which bears carriage to market well. It is some ten days later tlfan the Antwerps, and requires only slight protection. The fruit resembles the Fastolf, but rather more acid flavor; canes strong and branching, and leaves rather narrow. RED ANTWERP. This variety has long ee) been the standard sort, oe both in this country and Kurope, and is a very fine fruit. So many spurious sorts are now sold under this name, that it is difficult to ob- tain the genuine, in many places. The Com- RED ANTWERP, mon Red Antwerp is 86 THE RASPBERRY. smaller and round; while the true is large, regularly long conical, dull red, with a rich sweet flavor. The canes areof good strength when well cultivated, and the fruit ripens early in July. It also requires winter protection. YELLOW ANTWERP. Much resembles the Red Antwerp except in color, and is a very handsome and excellent fruit. Whether Dr. Brincklé’s new seedlings, Colonel Wilder, and Orange, will supersede it or not, as Mr, Elliott sug gests, we are unable to say. KNEVETT’S GIANT We have sometimes thought this variety a better bearer than the Red Antwerp, but we do not know as KNEVETT’S GIANT. it has any superiority other than being more hardy. VARIETIES. 87 This, however, bears a muck larger crop, in conse- quence of winter protection. LARGE-FRUITED MONTHLY. This is a new variety, that we have had in bearing in our garden some years, and have often gathered a moderate amount of fruit from it in September and October, as well as in the early summer. With good cultivation and thorough pruning, it produces full crops of fruit of the character, but not equal to, the Antwerps. OHIO EVER-BEARING. A. variety of the American Black, which has for years borne us several crops during the season, of large, good fruit, ripening its last crop amidst the snows and frosts of November. Some of our New Jersey markets are realizing on small plots at the rate of from six to eight hundred dollars per acre. THE BLACKBERRY. THE production of this fruit has heretofore been mostly confined to the woods and new lands of our country. In our former residence, Palmyra, Western New York, from time immemorial, almost, the market- women have made their appearance every two or three days during the season, with wagon-loads of from fifteen to thirty bushels of blackberries, which they sold at the prices of three, four, to five cents per quart. The fruit was often small, hard, and unripe, similar to much that is sold in the New York markets. Some of this fruit is larger and finer than others, and for many years persons have been trying to cultivate and improve upon the best specimens of field blackberries. Our agricultural friends in Massachusetts particularly the late Captain Lovett, of Beverly—have been among the most enterprising and successful in this direction. The ‘Improved High Bush Blackberry” of Captain Lovett has often been noticed with marked favor by the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, as being a long, egg-shaped, shining, black, juicy, and rich fruit, with specimens often an inch anda half long. We have (88) THE BLACKBERRY. 89 seen handsome and excellent fruit of this variety, not only in New England, but also in Western New York, but there is a complaint in some quarters that it has a tendency, like most other kinds, to deteriorate. Many promising varieties from the woods or seedlings, on being cultivated, have scarcely produced a single per- fect berry. We personally know of but one decided exception. THE LAWTON BLACKBERRY, Or New Rochelle, which is said to be a chance seed- ling first picked up by the wayside, and has been most successfully cultivated for many years in the pleasant village of New Rochelle, near New York, where it was discovered to have extraordinary vigor, growth, size and uniform productiveness. Our attention was first called to it by some baskets of the fruit presented to the Farmers’ Club of the American Institute in the city of New York at them regular meetings in August, 1852 and 1853, by Wil- liam Lawton, Esq., an amateur cultivator, of New Rochelle, who stated that it was familiarly known 11 the vicinity as the “ New Rochelle Blackberry.” The fruit was found to be of great size, uniform} y go, sixty to seventy of the berries filling a quart me sure—very few seeds, light melting pulp, and of a delicious flavor. 90 THLE BLACKBERRY. THE LAWTON BLACKBERRY. It was well known that not only in New Rochelle, but also in Morrisania, and the open lands of Long Island were filled with seedlings of greater or less excellence, but this variety so far surpassed all others known to the Club as to excite their admiration. On account of the liability of the numerous other wild THE BLACKBERRY. 91 varicties in New Rochelle becoming confounded with this, the Club resolved to name it, distinctively, “The Lawton Blackberry,” in honor of the gentleman intro- ducing it to them. We have had frequent opportunities of giving this variety a personal examination in various places and under different treatment, and particularly in the grounds of Mr. Lawton, where there are some three acres in bearing. THE CHARACTERISTICS Of it are a hardy vigorous growth, the canes are often an inch in diameter, and eight to twelve feet long, covered with laterals well loaded with fruit; so that a single stalk will produce from four to six and even eight quarts, and the canes are uniformly full of large perfect fruit in different exposures and locations. The Fruit is of regular, large size, oval shape, hand- some, and superior flavor, so that our best pomologists, after a trial of several years, do not hesitate to pro- nounce it “the greatest acquisition.” Its quite certain i¢ has not deteriorated in the last eight or ten years, and it proves to be entirely hardy CULTIVATION. The blackberry rejoices In a moist, loamy soil, but will grow well in higher exposures, and is rather bene- fited by a little shade and a cool northern aspect. 92 THE BLACKBERRY. When thus favored, it will prolong its period of bear- ing from four to six weeks. Usual good garden soil is favorable for the blackberry, and it will bear being made pretty rich with manures after the first year and especially with muck or woods’-mould. It should be transplanted as early in the spring as possible, or in the fall, and especial care should be taken of its fibrous roots and its whole general culture the first year, and then it will grow, produce fruit, and propagate itself rapidly. The canes which come up one season will bear fruit the next and then die in the autumn, and the dead branches must be carefully removed early every spring, in order to make room for the new ones to take their place, and this beautiful process of reproduc- tion thus goes on; so that a single plant set out in a good free soil will send up two, three, or four plants, and those will increase to a score or more the follow- ing season if carefully pruned and kept clean. The ends of the canes should be shortened about one quarter early in the spring, when the old decayed ones are removed, and if the laterals are too long clip them also. They usually require no support. TRANSPLANTING. Particular care, we think, is needed in transplanting the blackberry. It should not be attempted late in ihe spring, otherwise a great share of the plants will hardly | THE BLACKBERRY. 93 survive the process. Mulching and watering are often useful and even necessary when transplanting. It is well to set the plants four or five feet apart in rows that are eight to ten feet distant, and they will soon cover the ground, and thus 500 plants will set an acre. Some large growers in the vicinity of New York have readily contracted their entire crop for the season at 25 cents to 871 cents per quart. We have given a large space to this variety, not only because it is new, but because we believe it to be worthy of exten- sive cultivation by the public, both as amateurs and for the market. NEEDHAM’S IMPROVED WHITE BLACKBERRY Is a great bearer, not white, but with a blush cheek, and not of good quality or size when compared with the Lawton; sometimes it fails, but we are certified tc instances of single canes producing eight, ten, and even eleven quarts of fruit, such as itis. We have seen the wild white blackberry growing in the woods, on the southern shore of Lake Ontario, in the town of Ontario, Wayne County, but on culti- vating them they have failed to produce a single per- fect berry. ‘This has been the case also with the best specimens of black ones grown in the vicinity. THE CRANBERRY. THE culture of the American Cranberry has become an object of much interest and importance. It grows freely and produces its fruit readily in any damp situa- tion. Pare off the surface of a swamp or bog-meadow, then cover the surface with a few inches of sand, set out the plants 12 or 18 inches apart, keep them clean, and in two or three years they will cover the surface of the ground, and produce, say 50 bushels the first year, 100 the second, and after that a regular crop of 150 to 400 bushels per acre. They can be raised upon poor uplands by first cover- ing the surface with sand; set them out and keep the ground free from weeds. Planting can be done from March until middle of May, or from September until the ground freezes. The black cranberry has formerly been considered the best variety, but some new seedlings exhi- bited the past season promise decidedly to surpass it. A new work just issued from the prolific agricultu- ral publication house of C. M. Saxton & Co., New York, by the Rev. B. Eastwood “On the Cranberry,” ren- ° ders a more extended notice unnecessary in this place. (94) | THE CURRANT. THIS is one of the most valuable of all our smail fruits. It can be used to such advantage in a variety of ways, whether in a green or ripe state, and it is so easily grown, that it is indispensable in every small garden. It is a native of Great Britain, and therefore per- fectly hardy. In a green state it is used in pies, tarts, &e., stewed like gooseberries. When ripe, it is much used as a table fruit, with plenty of sugar; but it is almost universally used in a jelly that is both delicious and wholesome. It also makes an excellent wine, at a cost of not more than two or three shillings a gallon. The Black Currant is chiefly used in a jam or jelly. Currants ripen in midsummer, and if protected from the sun will remain on the bushes until October. This fruit is very easily cultivated, and it will grow and bear in almost any fair soil; fresh maiden earth is best for treatment. The usual way is to allow the suckers to spring up around the original plant, until it has become a matted clump of bushes, but this is a bad practice every way. The suckers uniformly pro- (25). 96 THE CURRANT. duce poor and small fruit, and should never be per- mitted to grow. The best way of propagating the currant is to cut off in the early spring, before the buds swell, the growth of the last year, close to the old wood; make the cuttings one foot long; remove all the eyes except some three or four at the top of the cutting, to prevent suckers; then place it compactly in good sandy soil to half its depth, or six inches, and by good care in one | year it will be sufficiently established for transplant- ing. In new, rare varieties, it can be more rapidly increased by layering, where the first branches have been allowed to grow near the surface of the earth. It should always be cultivated in the form of small bush trees, and by a skilful hand can be easily made to assume a handsome pyramidal or espalier form. All , superfluous wood should be carefully pruned out every. winter, and the plant invigorated with rich manure in the spring. The currant and gooseberry can hardly be over-fed. Each bush should be renewed every six or eight years, as young vigorous plants of most fruits produce the largest and best specimens. It will bear very well partially shaded by trees or shrubbery, yet the fruit will be the richest and best flavored with plenty of air and sun, and therefore a southern aspect is desirable. VARIETIES. 97 VARIETIES. -Buack NAPLES and BancG-up are the largest and best Black Currants, of excellent flavor, and bear large clusters of fruit, often five-eighths of an inch in diame- ter. They are also productive. The Black English is quite inferior. The WHire and Rep DutcH are our most popular varieties. They are large, good flavor and productive. The white is the mildest. They are decidedly better than the common currant. The Wuire and Rup Grape do not vary but a little from the above. CHERRY CurrANT.—The largest of all red currants ; quite acid; short clusters; moderate bearer; color, dark-red; strong grower; thick, dark-green foliage; new, from Italy. Sometimes seven-eighths of an inch - in diameter. May’s VictortA, or Houghton Castle; large and very long bunches; late, and rather acid; moderate _bearer; plant vigorous. Kwniau?’s Sweet Rep, chiefly valuable for its mild pleasant flavor, similar in quality to the White Dutch, and productive. 5 98 THE CURRANT. Larcest WHITE PROVENCE, the largest White Currant, often full five-eighths of an inch in diame- ter; short bunches, and quite acid; a good bearer; quite attractive; new, from France. We are pleased with it in our own garden. THE GOOSEBERRY. No fruit is easier of propagation than the goose. berry, and it should find its place in every garden. It should be protected from suckers, like the currant, and like that it loves a fresh, deep, rich, moist soil of a soft, loamy texture; it can scarcely be too much en- riched with cooling manures. The north side of an open fence or hedge will do well for it, but it should not be placed under the shade of trees; open ground is far better. It should be so carefully and thoroughly pruned as to admit the air and light freely, and it is well to train it up into little upright bushes or small trees. Summer as well as winter pruning is often necessary to admit sun and air. The English varieties are much subject to mildew in this country. Mr. William Newcomb, of Pittstown, N. Y., a very successful horticulturist, wrote me that he always in the spring placed three inches of hog- manure under every bush, and raised the best English varieties in that way in the greatest abundance and ~ yt (99) 100 THE GOOSEBERRY. perfection, without its being affected in the least by the mildew. Mr. D. Haines, near Elizabethtown, N. J., informs me that he cultivates Woodward’s Whitesmith most successfully by removing a few inches of the surface- earth, every spring, under every bush, and filling the space with salt hay, which he covers with the earth ; thus affording protection from drought, and perfectly exempting the fruit from mildew. Others find a remedy in sprinkling ashes on the bushes when the dew is on. The ashes also benefit the plant. Any good mulch of tan bark, saw-dust, &c., of three inches deep, would answer nearly the same purpose as salt hay. Sprink- ling the bushes in the spring freely with soap-suds also has a good effect on their growth, and often protects them from mildew. The bushes should be transplanted ~in April or late in October or November, and pruned back and set at a distance of about three feet, like the currant. If any large fruit is wanted, the fruit must be thinned out. The Encyclopedia of Gardening says of the famous growers in Lancashire, England, who produce the largest fruit in the world: “ To effect this increased size, every stimulant is applied that their ingenuity can suggest; they not only annually manure the soil richly, but also surround the plants with trenches of manure for the extremities of the roots to strike into, and form around the stem of each plant a : c ~ «4 THE GOOSEBERRY. 101 basin, to be mulched, or manured, or watered, as may be necessary. | “They also practice what they term suckling their prize fruit. By preparing a very rich, cool soil, and by watering, and by the use of liquid manure, shading and thinning, the large fruit of the prize cultivator is Lro- duced. Not content with watering at root and over the top, the Lancashire connoisseur, when he is growing for exhibition, places a small saucer of water under each gooseberry, only three or four of which he leaves on a tree; this he technically calls suckling.” The gooseberry tree needs to be kept constantly in a vigorous condition, and then it will produce an abundance of good fruit. It should be propagated from cuttings of the wood of the present year, prepared and set out early in Sep- tember, and transplanted in October of next year, or very early in the following spring; and should be pruned in June and November, and renewed every five or six years. The short stout growth from the fruit stem makes better bushes than longer cuttings from the thrifty suckers. The fruit is well adapted for pies and tarts when in a green state, and the best varieties when well grown and ripe are very excellent and acceptable for the table or hand Says Mr Downing: “As a luxury for the poor, Mr. Loudon considers this the most valuable 102 THE GOOSEBERRY. of ali fruits, smce it can be grown in less space, in more unfavorable circumstances, and brought sooner into bearing than any other.” Books and catalogues are filled with the longest lists of names of different kinds of the gooseberry, but afte. experimenting with many of them for years, and observing them under various circumstances, we are prepared to narrow our list down to a very few kinds, —as we have studied to do with the other fruits— which we think combine the size, flavor, and produc- tiveness of all, at least for ordinary cultivation. CROMPTON'S SHEBA QUEEN. This is the largest and best flavored of all the English varieties we have seen. Our attention was at- tracted to it some years since by the favorable reports and first premium of the Aibany Horticultural Society, through the accurate chairman of its Fruit Committee, Dr. Herman L. Wendell, who says of it, “ This is de- cidedly the richest and most delicious, as well as one of the most beautiful berries we have. It is larger in size than any of the others; obovate form; white, clear color; very pleasant, rich, and luscious in its flavor, and erect in its growth. Itrequires a deep, rich, and VARIETIES. 103 well-drained, as well as cool soil.” In other locatiens it sustains the same high character there given of it, and we have found it decidedly the best in our own garden, WOODWARD’S WHITESMITH. This is another large, beautiful, and excellent Eng- lish variety—very productive, and is usually over one inch in length. The color is white, and tree of erect habit. Roaring Lion and Crown Bob Warrington are also large, good varieties of red color. Golden Drop and Yellow Lion are fine yellow kinds. Green Laurel, Conquering Hero, and Green Willow, green varieties. We might name a great number of varieties nearly as good, but do not know that any benefit could be derived from it. HOUGHTON’S SEEDLING. An American seedling of very vigorous habit, great bearer, and said never to mildew. It is of pale red color, rather under medium size; of good, rich flavor, and well worthy of cultivation. We have also cultivated for some years an American seedling variety resembling Houghton’s Seedling in every respect, except being of larger size, and greenish- white color. It is very valuable. THE GRAPE, It has often been asserted—we know not with how much of truth—that in the vine districts of France, lung diseases are unknown; but this we do now, that the free use of well-grown and well-ripened grapes would be decidedly beneficial to the general health. The cultivation of this excellent fruit embraces a very wide range. In the first place, there is the very nice process of raising hot-house grapes: next, the cold vinery, which is simple and easy to be practised; next, vineyard cultivation: but it will not be expected of us, in this brief notice, to more than refer to the common mode of out-door garden culture. The grape is easily and cheaply raised, but good cultivation is altogether the best economy. It is easily propagated from ecut- tings. We have found it the best way to prune off our cuttings early in February, two feet in length, bury them in a bundle four or six inches deep in the ground immediately, and for this purpose we choose the warmest weather in the month. (104) THE GRAPE. 105 Let them be in the ground till the warm weather in the fore part of May: we then take them up and plant them in a sloping position, in a somewhat shaded situation, leaving the upper bud a few inches above ground. In this way almost every cutting will surely grow, and after a year or two, should be carefully transplanted into the vine border. The preparation of this vine border is an important process in grape culture in private gardens. It should be made from four to six feet wide, and two to three feet deep, and be composed of a liberal mixture of limestone, or old plaster or mortar, bones, leather- parings, hair, ashes, and strong, well-rotted manure, well mixed with the soil. A calcareous soil or gravelly loam is best for the grape, and should be well drained and warm. “The essence,” says Downing, “of all that can be said in grape culture respecting soil, is that it be dry, light, deep, rich.” It is somewhat difficult in wet clay lands - to raise good grapes, unless the vine border is carefully prepared. Soap-suds and wash from the house is favor- able for the grape, and we have known some plants succeed well that were placed immediately under the spout of the sink. For vineyard culture, the nearer the process approximates to the one described above by trenching and enriching, the better. Every plant should be thcroughly pruned down to 5* 106 THE GRAPE. two or three leading shoots; and after these cover the trellis or stakes as extensively as you wish, then the rule in pruning is, every year from December to first of February, fearlessly to cut back all of the last year’s growth, so far as to leave only two eyes. It is also desirable, after the grapes are beginning to fill in June, to pinch back the terminal bud of every branch, and thus check its growth, and throw back its sap, to ripen the fruit and mature the wood. By pinching back, we mean, to pinch off with the thumb-nail and fore-finger the end of every bearing branch, and we then cut out all the superfluous little shoots and suckers. The vine is composed the greater part of potash, lime, and carbonic acid, and therefore a frequent appli- cation of ashes, lime, and soap-suds is beneficial. It has been asserted that tartaric acid is a valuable spe- cific for the fruit, but of this we have no personal knowledge. The grape should always be grown in the warmest and most sheltered situation, so that the fruit may ripen well before frost. The south side of a house, or southern slope of a side-hill, should be chosen. In some places the mildew is troublesome to the grape, but sulphur sprinkled liberally on its first ap- pearance will usually check it at once. There is also a kind of snail slug which often -destroys the leaves in afew weeks. These can easily be destroyed by shower- VARIETIES. 107 ing the vines two or three times with strong soap-suds from the wash. Our nurserymen have many kinds of the grape on their lists for open-air cultivation, but we are not quite sure that the Jsabella and Catawba do not comprise sub- stantially the good qualities ofall The only complaint against them seems to be, they will not in all situations and all seasons at the North ripen before the frost. THE ISABELLA is the well-known and most popular grape North. It is a most vigorous grower, hardy, an immense bearer, large size, black oval, and when ripe, juicy, sweet, musky, and rich. MRipens well as far north as forty-three degrees of latitude. THE CATAWBA does not always ripen well so far north as forty-three degrees. Otherwise it would rival the Isabella. It has large berries, copper-colored, with a fresh bloom, flesh a little pulpy; juicy, sweet, aro- matic, musky, and rich, productive and hardy. It requires a warm soil and sheltered location north of New York to perfect its fruit, and then it is truly deli- ClOUS. THE CLINTON is two weeks earlier than the Isabella, but it is not near so large or good. 108 THE GRAPE. We are in great want of a new seedling grape equal or superior to the Isabella and Catawba, and decidedly two or three weeks earlier. We often have such an- nounced, but they do not always prove satisfactory. THE CONCORD is a large, handsome grape, newly originated by Mr. Bull, of Concord. It resembles the Isabella in appearance, is about two weeks earlier, and on that account an acquisition; is of good flavor, although not equal, we think, to that grape in flavor. It is a little shade foxy. THE DIANA is a pleasant new grape, resembling the Catawba in color and flavor, of smaller size and some two or three weeks earlier. THE Buack MADEIRA is a small pleasant wine grape. Harther south, the Bland, Ohio, Herbemont’s, Norton’s, White Scuppemong, Warren, &c., are popular. Appendix. i? ” ug » 7h on ee ee - 7” ee PR EeNe Dee ee APPENDIX A. THE STRAWBERRY AND ITS CULTURE. BY CHARLES A. PEABODY, OF COLUMBUS, GEO. THAT eminent horticulturists are liable to be mistaken in their views of culture, as well as of the origin and history of plants, as any other class of men, we have _ ample proof in the conflicting opinions of the nature and culture of the strawberry. Downing says: “The strawberry is the most delicious and most wholesome of all berries, and the most universally cultivated in all gardens of a northern climate.” Again he says: “The strawberry properly belongs to cold climates, and though well known, is of comparatively litle value in the south of Hurope.” With this high authority, the horticulturists of the South never dreamed of cul- tivating the strawberry to any extent, although the woods and fields were covered with the wild fruit. It was a knowledge of the fact that the wild strawberry — (111) 112 APPENDIX. grew all around me, that induced me to try strawberry culture at the South. Ido not believe there is a plant in nature that so easily adapts itself to soil, situation, and climate, as the strawberry. In many of its homes, however, it produces little or no fruit, spreading itself rapidly by its runners. Now, as there are two ways of propagating the strawberry, one by its seeds and the other by its run- ners, the question is, which method do we prefer? If we were going to introduce the strawberry-leaf for a tea, for which it makes a good substitute, common sense would dictate to us to cultivate for runners, and stop the fruiting, or perfecting the seed, as the fruit is nothing more than the receptacle for the seed; and if, on the other hand, we wish seeds or fruit, we must cultivate for that purpose alone, and stop the runners. Intelligent experimental cultivators have long since discovered that plants have a specific food for their wood, leaves, and fruit. Physiologists know full well that it takes different substances to form the bones, flesh, and muscles of animals; and, profiting by these hints in nature, I would feed for fruit instead of vines. Before planting out the vines, the cultivator should understand the sexual character of the plants, as upon a proper knowledge of this fact will depend his whole success in culture. That plants are staminate and pis- tillate, or male and female, no intelligent cultivator will APPENDIX. 113 now presume to deny. But in the strawberry there are three varieties—the perfect male, the perfect female, and the hermaphrodite. The perfect pistillate, or female, is the most productive of the three, when im- pregnated by one of the other kinds. The perfect staminate, or male, produces no fruit, making a great show of flowers, and sending out innumerable runners which will soon take possession of the whole bed. The hermaphrodite produces fruit, but not in so great abundance as the pistillate, and answers the purpose of an impregnator equally as well as the purely staminate. These three varieties of flowers are represented by Figs. 1, 2, and 8, page 51. Fig. Lis from an hermaphrodite plant, which blooms and impregnates itself{ The stamens, marked a, are full of a fine pollen, or yellow powder, which falling on the end of the unopened calyx of the buds, below the flower, or around it, on the pistillate plants, is carried by an unseen agency direct to the pistil, im- pregnating and setting the fruit. This variety is the Karly Scarlet, a continuous bloomer with my culture, and the best impregnator for the ever-bearing Hovey Seedling I have ever met. Fig. 2 is the sterile staminate, or male plant, never producing fruit under any circumstances whatever. It will be observed the flower is larger and more showy than the others. It deceives many an mexperienced 114 APPENDIX. cultivator with its false promises of fruit. The flower of the pure male may be easily known by its large anthers and stamens, as marked a, b, in Fig. 2. Fig. 8 is the pistillate or female blossom. It will be observed that there are no stamens around the pistil, as b, but nearly every bud will produce a berry if impreg- nated by one of the staminate or hermaphrodite plants. Of this variety is the Hovey Seedling, which, as far as my experience goes, is the best strawberry ever yet cultivated, North or South. Before proceeding to the method of culture, I will give my views of the time of impregnation, being fully satisfied that the generally received opinion that the strawberry is impregnated after the petals expand, is entirely erroneous. I have long since observed that the first strawberry blossoms never produce fruit. The staminate varieties, or rather the hermaphrodite, open from two to ten blossoms, which must shed their pollen on the ends of the unopened calyx of the young buds below, or fall on the ends of thé unopened pistillate buds, and immediately cause impregnation. The pollen of flowers is one of the most volatile substances in nature. That of the strawberry, viewed through a microscope, is a hairy substance, which, upon ripening, bursts and floats off on the least breath of air. The point of the unopened calyx contains a glutinous matter, which catches and holds APPENDIX. "15 this hairy pollen, and the work of impregnation is done; and when the calyx opens, and the petals ex- pand, the young strawberry may be seen perfectly formed. From this will be seen the importance of the pistillate and staminate varieties blooming together. I would always prefer the pistillate plant for a large fruit crop; for, if properly impregnated, nearly every bud will be a berry. Thousands of blossoms will be found in the beds to correspond with Figures 2 and 3. Fig. 2, let it be recollected, is a staminate or male flower, and Fig. 8 an impregnated pistillate or female flower, neither of which, by itself, can ever make fruit. Having now explained the sexual character of the plant, and the time of impregnation, I will proceed to the culture. As I have before stated, were I to culti- -vate for vines alone, I would stimulate the plants by the most active fertilizers; but if fruit be the object, the luxuriance of the vine must be curtailed, and that food only known as the special food of the fruit given. Now as tosoils. There are as many opinions as cul- tivators, from the fact that the strawberry adapts itself to almost any kind of soil. But the soil which I have found to suit them best, is a sandy loam. I would pre- fer new land for the beds, with a stream of water running through them, as water, being an indispensable requisite, should be in the vicinity. It is now well known throughout the Southern 116 APPENDIX. States that for many years I have cultivated the strawberry extensively, and have had from my beds a constant succession of fruit six months in the year, and frequently have it ten. While I am now writing, (December 24), one of my beds, of an acre, is loaded with ripe fruit, specimens of which I have sent to New Orleans, Montgomery, Savannah, Charleston, Mobile, and New York. This bed has scarcely produced a runner the past season. The causes of this will be found in my method of culture. I have said that I prefer a sandy soil and new land. My grounds are on | what are called “piney woodlands,” hill and valley, with never-failing streams meandering through them. I have taken the grounds bordering on the streams, ploughed them deep, and laid them off in rows, two feet apart, and planted as indicated in the annexed diagram :— DG pS RO: TBS AON ie a oe elena le Pets ae TRE oi OE ae SE sa eS ra cen tee I EE Lm Os pebe n et tO Se Sai MAR MR cece Do ee ak eg tn ee oe Mae oe ee oe Pen Se a ee BR A OM SiR EOS Rr i ee Be A oe RS ie ls nae PROP = Pen Peers = @ vo Sin iO oo sii ely Seemlet. T plant the pistillate for fruit, and the hermaphrodite for impregnators; and the only two which I have APPENDIX. ea found to bloom and fruit together the whole season are the Hovey Seedling and Large Karly Scarlet. Ross Phoenix, Burr’s New Pine, and a seedling of my own, not yet fully tested, I have also caused to bear continuously. I plant seven rows of the pistillate, and one row of the hermaphrodite, two feet apart each way. The first season I let the runners fill the ground; in the fall, go through the grounds with hoes, thinning out to eight or ten inches, leaving the vines to decay ~ just where they are cut up. I then cover the whole bed with partially decomposed leaves from the woods or swamps. ‘The winter rains beat down the leaves, the fruit-germ finds its way through them, and the first mild weather of spring the blossoms appear. | I have before spoken of the volatile nature of the pollen. In very dry weather the particles float off on the winds, and much is lost to the buds below; hence the importance of watering freely when in bloom. Free applications of water will set the whole bed with fruit, which will require continuous watering to swell and ripen it. A strawberry bed may be moist, the plants in fine condition, and yet one good shower will make a difference of one-third in the quantity of fruit picked the day after. Consequently, in dry seasons, artificial watering must be resorted to, and no labor will pay better I never use animal manure of any kind—nothing 118 APPENDIX. but the leaf-mould, and an occasional sprinkling of wood-ashes. The leaf-mould keeps the ground cool and moist, as well as the fruit clean, and does not stimulate the vines to runners. The potash and acids contained in it are just what the fruit wants. Should the vines be disposed to spread, keep the runners down by constant pinching off, and clear out the grass and weeds with the hoe. A few years of this culture will check their disposition to run, and encourage them to fruit. The bed, once thus formed and cultivated, will, to my certain knowledge, continue productive twelve years, and, I have reason to believe, as much longer as the culture is continued. Should the vines have taken possession of the ground, in spite of the efforts to keep the runners down, we go through in the fall with the hoe, thinning out the plants to ten or twelve inches, leaving every cut-up vine to decay on the ground where it grew; we then cover with the decaying leaves. When the plants begin to bloom in the spring, a top-dressing of wood-ashes will be found . beneficial. I have tried strawberry culture with the plough, which will make a greater quantity of vines, but will give only one crop of fruit. It is generally remarked that the wild strawberry is finer flavored than the cultivated; but with this treatment the latter retains all the original flavor. It has been recommended by some cultivators to os APPENDIX, 119 irrigate the strawberry grounds by letting water on the vines; but the strawberry, cultivated after the manner described, can bear as great a drought as any other plant. It is not the vines and leaves that want the water, but the flowers and fruit; and the water must come in the form of rain, through the clouds, from an engine, or a common watering-pot. I have noticed quite a contest going on among hor- ticulturists as to the possibility of strawberries chang- ing their sexual character by cultivation. Without taking part in the controversy, I must state that I would as soon think of high feed turning a cow to a bull, as to change the pistillate character of Hovey’s Seedling by any method of cultivation. I have culti- vated the strawberry under every aspect; with high manuring, and without manure; in new lands, and on old lands; have had the vines stand from twelve to eighteen inches high, and in meek submission to hug the ground; yet I have never found the least change inthe blossom. A perfect pistillate or staminate flower, first blooming so from seed, will never bloom any other way. Cultivators are often deceived about their plants, from the fact that they frequently find varie- ties in the beds which they did not plant; but these spring from seed. The strawberry springs from seed with astonishing rapidity. Since my beds were started, the whole country around me is covered with straw- 120 APPENDIX. berry-plants from the seed dropped by birds. ‘These I find running into all varieties—pistillate, staminate, and hermaphrodite—most of them worthless, but some with good fruit. The proper time for transplanting the strawberry at the South, is as soon in the fall as the weather is cool and moist enough. Here, this may be continued until spring. Plants are easily transported great distances in the winter. I have sent them 2,000 miles with safety. It will be observed. by the diagram, that I plant the staminate every eighth row. Some cultiva- tors mix in the rows; but I prefer to keep them sepa- rate and distinct, as they are more easily distinguished, and kept better in their places. Now, if the cultivator would know the secret of my having strawberries six, eight, and even ten months in the year, in the hot climate of Georgia and Alabama, it is this: proper location, vegetable manures, shade to the ground, without exhaustion, and water to the bloom and fruit. One reason why so many fail in garden culture with the strawberry is, that the beds are surrounded by trees and shrubbery, which may produce one crop of fruit in the spring, but rarely more than that, unless it should prove a very wet season. The strawberry-bed, whether in the garden or the field, should have no tree, plant, or shrub near enough to it to take the moisture APPENDIX. 121 from the earth. The plants require all the moisture from the atmosphere and the earth around them. Whether the strawberry was originally found in cold climates, or not, I find they readily adapt themselves to any climate, and very soon become indigenous. I doubt whether there is a State in this Union that can- not produce the strawberry months, instead of weeks, ™ the year, with proper culture. And when we take into consideration the ease and simplicity of its cul- ture, its continued bearing and productiveness, its exemption from all insect depredations, its delicious flavor and healthy influence upon the system, it ranks first in importance among the fruits of the earth. APPENDIX B. [From Downing’s Horticulturist.] TWO EXPERIMENTS MADE TO TEST MR. LONGWORTH’S STRAWBERRY THEORY. ‘TaxiInG Hovey’s Seedling as a subject, I procured a beli-glass, and placed it over an entire plant which had not bloomed. The flowers expanded well under the glass, but did not produce one berry. The plant was frequently agitated to put the pollen in motion, if there was any. 6 122 APPENDIX. I also introduced under a glass some blossom buds before they had blown. These, as they successively expanded, showed no signs of swelling. I impreg- nated, at different times, two of the blossoms by hand, applying the pollen from another plant with a camel’s hair pencil. These two set their fruit perfectly. The pistils of the other blossoms soon turned to a dark color. ‘These experiments were made at the north side of a picket fence, where the plants were screened from the full effects of the sun, otherwise the heat under the glasses would have been too great. These experiments prove, to my mind, very conclu- sively, that Hovey’s Seedling will not bear any fruit unless impregnated by some staminate variety. And the sarne may be said of other varieties in which the stamens are obsolete. I have had some plants of the Hudson Bay for three years, m a position where they cannot very easily be impregnated by other kinds, during which time they have not borne one berry, while other plants of the same variety, exposed, have been productive. A difference in the formation of the flowers on different plants is not confined to cultivated kinds, but may be seen in those growing wild in the fields, the pistellate plants of which I have often exam- ined with a magnifying-glass, to see if I could discover any pollen, but have never been able to find it; I am forced, therefore, to believe that pisti/late plants, both ; | ! APPENDIX. 193 wild and cultivated, are absolutely devoia of pollen, and cannot, therefore, produce any fruit except when impregnated by others. I am also convinced, from observation and theory, that one kind will never change to the other by offsets, the runner bearing the same relation to the plant pro- ducing it as a tree grown from a bud does to the tree from which it was taken. It may, then, be asked, How does it happen that there are pistillate and staminate plants of the same variety? L answer, It ts not the fact, unless they have sprung from seed, or the plants have been taken from the fields in a wild state. That pistillate plants are surer and better bearers than staminate plants, is, I think, generally true, (pro- vided, of course, that they are impregnated). And it would seem reasonable to infer that when but one of the sexual organs is complete, the other will have more strength. Plants, therefore, that are perfect in both organs, require a higher state of cultivation. There is, however, a wide difference in the produc- tiveness of different kinds that are perfect in both organs, some being much more liable to blast than others. G. W. HUNTSMAN. Flushing, L. I., July 14, 1846. 124 APPENDIX. APPENDIX C. CINCINNATI, Ohio, Aug. 14, 1854. Mr. R. G. PARDEE: DEAR Sir:—By this mail I send you a grape pamphlet, containing an article written by me on the strawberry. I will, in a day or two, send you a Report of our Strawberry Committee, written by Dr. Warder, on Mr. Meehan’s doctrine of changing a pistillate to a staminate plant. Mr. Meehan finds plants that he took from what was called a bed of Hovey’s Seedling, and had nearly all proved staminates or hermaphrodites. Dr. Warder and Mr. Heath, of our city, saw his plants, and found about one Hovey to the hundred. The Hovey is so strongly marked that our children can © distinguish the plant from all others. Mr. Meehan never heard of a pistillate plant till he came to Amer- ica. I sent some of our seedlings to the President of the London Horticultural Society last winter, and among them pistillates. He replied that he was not aware that there were plants that would not bear fruit without impregnation, and suggested that the failure to bear, he presumed, was from frost. He promised to investigate the subject. Mr. Huntsman, of Flushing, Long Island, is a botanist, and has given great atten- APPENDIX. 125 tion to the cultivation and sexes of the plant. From the stem and leaf he can designate some fifty varieties that he has had in cultivation. I would recommend you to get his views. It is singular that after public attention has been brought to the question for twenty years or more, even botanists and horticultural editors deny the doctrine. If generally understood, the dis- covery of the ignorant market-gardener is worth mil- lions of dollars. After I had made the discovery, from a chance observation of a son of Mr. Abergust, I was at the gardens of persons near the city of Philadelphia, where Mr. Abergust resided, prior to his emoval to Cincinnati, and named the matter to them. ‘ Oh,” said they, ‘““we now understand it. He lived near us, and from the same space of ground raised five times as much fruit as we could, and larger. Every fall he thinned out his plants, and threw them in the road; we gathered them, and planted them in our gardens, and they never bore a single fruit. He threw out staminates only, and to deceive them. The son of Mr. Abergust was in my garden a few days before my plants were in blossom, and observed, ‘“ Your straw- berries bear a bad crop.” I observed, such was the fact. He added, “‘They are all males.” I replied, “That is all nonsense. The strawberry is a plant that bears flowers perfect in both organs.” “TI am no botanist,” said he, “but I know most of yours will 126 APPENDIX. bear nv fruit.” I requested him to point out any that would. He selected two. I inquired, “Can you then see the difference?” ‘ Not now,” said he; “TI could if they were in blossom.” I found him disposed to give no further information. I marked the plants, and when in blossom, could distinguish them at a distance of several feet. There was not one of these to the hundred. Before they were out of blossom, I cast them all out, as I supposed; they spread, and the next season I had a full crop. But finding a few barren plants before they were out of blossom, I dug them all up, and the next season had not a single berry. I then understood the subject, and made it known. In that day we had no hermaphrodite plants. Yours truly, N. Lonawortu. CINCINNATI HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. THE Secretary, at the request of the Society, reported a written statement of how he found the strawberry question in Philadelphia; after some animated discus- sion, it was moved to accept and file the report, and the finality was ordered to appear in the minutes of the day. It has long been argued by some distinguished hor- ticultural writers that certain varieties of the straw- APPENDIX. 197 berry—for instance, Hovey’s Seedling—would produce at one time plants with pistillate, and at another time staminate blossoms. his error has been explained by the fact, that a bed of strawberry plants of any known pistillate variety, after standing three or four years, and the fruit falling and decaying on the bed, will produce seedling plants, and of course new varie- ties, and these are as likely to be staminate as pistil- late sorts. The following is the FINALITY ON THE STRAWBERRY.—Wild or culti- vated, the strawberry presents, in its varieties, four distinct forms or characters of inflorescence. Ist. Those called Pistillate, from the fact that the stamens are abortive, and rarely to be found without a dissection of the flower. These require extrinsic impregnation. 2d. Those called Staminate, which are perfectly des- titute of even the rudiments of pistils, and are neces- sarily fruitless. 3d. Those. called Hermaphrodite or perfect, having both sets of organs, stamens and pistils, apparently well developed. These are not generally good and certain bearers, as we should expect them to be. With few exceptions they bear poorly, owing to some unob- _ served defect, probably in the pistils. One-tenth of their flowers generally produce perfect and often very large berries. 128 APPENDIX. Ath. A rare class—a sort of subdivision of the pre- ceding—has not only hermaphrodite flowers, but also some on the same truss that are of the pistillate charac- ter; and sometimes, in the same plant, a truss will be seen on which all the flowers are pistillate. Now these four divisions are natural and real; they are also founded upon permanent character, so far as we have been able to discover, after a most thorough investigation, extending through a long series of years, during which millions of strawberry blossoms have been examined with the severest scrutiny. Other — forms may exist, and it is not claimed to be impossible that we may yet find a seedling which shall have the general character of a pistillate, that may show an occasional perfect or hermaphrodite flower, as a pecu- harity of that individual, but we have never yet observed such a variety; and, further, we believe that whatever impress, as to peculiarities of foliage, pubes- cence, habit, inflorescence, or fruit, each distinct seed- ling may receive with its origin, it will be retained in its increase by runners, so long as the variety remains extant. Seedlings may vary from the parent, but off-shoots will not be materially different, except by accidental malformation or by development of unim- portant organs. JOHN A. WARDER, Secretary. APPENDIX. 129 APPENDIX D. From the ‘ Horticulturist,” August, 1854. By P. Barry, Editor. THE CULTIVATION OF THE STRAWBERRY. THE discussion of the Strawberry question, which has occupied the pages of agricultural and horticultural journals so largely for a few years past, has been the means, directly and indirectly, of advancing materially the cultivation of that fruit. We find ample evidence of thisim the more abundant supply of our markets, and in the production of a large number of seedling varieties. Recent letters from correspondents in all parts of the country, as well as the reports of late exhibitions, all testify to the very general interest which is felt on the subject, and the progress that has been made. But, after all, we are constrained to say that our cultivation is yet very indifferent. The size and appearance of the great bulk of fruit offered in market, convince us of this. Those who know how to cultivate are in many cases slovenly, or act upon the principle that good culture will not pay; while there are many who fail for want of correct information. We have now before us a large number of inquiries on the subject. One wants to know how to prepare the soil; ancther, when to plant; and another, how to Bx ~ 130 APPENDIX. plant. Several correspondents who are well informed on the subject of cultivation, ask us to give them the names of the best perfect-flowering sorts, as they are tired of keeping separate the staminate and pistillate varieties. We have therefore thought it might be well to offer a few hints which will serve as a general answer. We will state here, at the »>utset, that to cultivate the strawberry successfully, .s but a simple matter. To grow large, handsome, fire-flavored fruit in abun- dance, it is not necessary to employ a chemist to furnish us with a long list of specifics, nor even to employ a gardener by profession, who can boast of long years of experience. -Any one who can manage a crop of corn or potatoes, can, if he will, grow strawberries. We say this much by way of encouragement, because so much has been said in regard to various methods of culture, and various applications and specifics, that some people have become persuaded that a vast deal of learning and experience is necessary to produce large crops of strawberries. Judging from what we have seen, we believe that the great cause of failure is negligence. The straw- berry plant—not like a tree, which when once set in its place, remains there—is constantly sending out shoots (runners) in all directions, taking possession of the ground rapidly around the parent vlant. In a APPENDIX. 131 short time, therefore, unless these runners are kept in check, the ground becomes entirely occupied with plants, the parent plants become exhausted, and the ground can no longer be stirred or kept in such a con- dition as is necessary to sustain their vigor. The re- sult is, the ground is covered with a mass of starved and weakly plants, choking up each other in a hard, uncultivated soil, and producing a spare crop of small, insipid berries, that dry up on their stalks before they are ripe, unless rain happens to fall every day. The constant stirring of the soil around the plants is one thing which in our climate is absolutely neces- sary; and any system of culture which precludes this, or throws any obstacle in its way, is defective. If any one will examine his strawberry beds, he will find the plants along the outer edges of the beds, where the soil has been kept clean and fresh by the frequent use of the hoe, vigorous and healthy, with luxuriant dark- green foliage, and large, fine fruit; while in the interior of the beds, where the plants have grown into masses, and covered all the ground, so as to prevent its culti- vation, they are yellow and sickly-looking, and the fruit poor and wortless. This we see in our own grounds, and everywhere that we find plants growing under similar circumstances. Does this not show the neces- sity of cultivation close around the plants? No mat- ter how deep we may trench the soil, or how unsparing 132 APPENDIX. we may be with manures, or how copiously we supply moisture, this cultivation cannot be dispensed with, if we aim at producing fine fruits, and abundance of them. ‘ But,” says one cultivator, ‘by allowing the ground to be all occupied with plants, we save all the labor which would be consumed in removing the run- ners, and we avoid the necessity of applying a mulch- ing to keep the fruit clean.” Very true, you save some expense; but what do you get in return? A crop of fruit not fit for the table—smaul, msipid, and so dirty, if a heavy rain occurs about ripening-time, that it must be put through the wash-tub before it is placed on the table. It is possible that the market-grower may be able to produce berries of this kind at a less price per quart than he could by a careful, cleanly, and thorough system of culture; but then he can expect to sell such fruit only when no better can be had. We have some doubts, however, as to the economy of bad culture in the long run. If a proper system were adopted at the outstart, and followed up with regularity, it would not be found so profitless or expensive. In this, as in every other kind of culture, a system is absolutely necessary. A certain routine of operations which are easily executed if taken at the right time, become bur- densome when deferred; and being so, they are not unfrequently put off altogether. Precisely thus it is that strawberry beds are neglected, both in market APPENDIX. 133 gardens and private gardens, until they are grown wild beyond hope of recovery. Now, we say to every one who wishes to cultivate strawberries, resolve at once upon abandoning the “lazy-bed” system; and if you cultivate but a square rod, do it well. We advise planting in rows not less than two feet apart, unless ground be very scarce, when eighteen inches might suffice, and the plants to be twelve to eighteen inches apart in the rows. In extensive field culture, the rows should be at least three feet apart, in order to admit the use of the plough and cultivator between them, or even the passage of a cart to deposit manures or mulching material. The spade and wheel- barrow are too costly impliments for an extensive cul- ture where labor is scarce and high, as with us. From _ the time the plants are set until the fruit is gathered, the runners should be cut away as fast as they appear, and the ground be kept clear of weeds, and well worked. | In the fall, or before the setting in of winter, a mulching of half-decayed leaves or manure should be placed between the rows, coming close around the plants, leaving the crown or heart uncovered. This mulching prevents the plants from being drawn out and weakened, or destroyed by freezing and thawing in winter. We have sometimes covered the entire beds, plants and all, with newly-fallen leaves; and by 134 APPENDIX. raking them off early in the spring, the plants came out in fine order. In the same way we have covered with clean wheat straw, and found it answer well. In all the Northern and Western States, some winter pro- tection is of great service, although not indispensable. In field culture, the earth might be ploughed up to the plants, as is done with nursery trees, in sucha manner as to afford considcrable protection against the ‘action of frost on the root. As soon as the fruit begins to attain its full size, and approach maturity, the spaces between the rows, which up to this time have been under clean culture, should be covered with straw, litter, or moss. This will serve the double purpose of keeping the fruit clean and retaining the moisture in the soil. When copious supplies of water are to be applied, which should always be done when practicable, stable litter is a good mulching, as the water poured on it carries down with it to the roots of the plants the fertilizing materials which it contains. The application of water in abundance we must again recommend to all who want the finest fruit. Rains are very good, but they cannot be relied upon, and they always deprive the fruit of its flavor, while artificial waterings do not. On this account the _ French gardeners say that the strawberry “ prefers water from the well to water from the clouds.” It is APPENDIX. 135 supposed that the electricity which pervades the atmos- phere during our summer rains affects the flavor of the fruit. When the crop has been gathered, the mulching material between the rows should be removed and the ground be forked over, so that if plants are wanted to form anew plantation, their growth will be encour- aged. The same plants should not be relied upon for more than two crops. The labor of making a new bed, save the trenching of the soil, is no more than that of planting a plot of cabbages. As to the season for planting, we would recommend the spring for large plantations, because then there is comparatively no risk of failure. The amateur, how- ever, who wishes only to plant a bed in his garden, may do it at any time that he can procure good plants. If the growth of runners is encouraged in July, after the fruit is gathered, good, well rooted runners may be had about the first of September, or it may be sooner. The young plants nearest the parent plant should always be chosen, if possible. In planting during the month of August or September, rainy weather should be chosen, if possible, but it may be safely done, even in a dry time, by using water freely. Water the plants well before taking them up, as it injures the roots very much to draw them out of dry ground; then water the soil thoroughly where they are to be set, before plant. 136 APPENDIX. ing. A sprinkling will be of no use: it must go down deep, as a heavy rain would. Set the plants in the evening, and shade them a few days with boards set on edge, forming a sort of roof over them. Mulch them, too, with short litter; and it will be well, if the plants be large, to remove some of the lower and larger leaves. Planting can be done safely in spring any time until the plants are in blossom—and all summer, for that matter, with proper care. We have thus briefly sketched the principal opera- tions in strawberry culture; not in regular order, it is true, but we hope so as to be understood. We are not writing a book, and cannot enter into all the details with minuteness. We have said nothing of the soil, and will only remark that any good garden soil fit to produce culinary vegetables, or any good farm land fit for grain or root crops, will produce good strawberries; but it must be deeply ploughed, or trenched, say twenty inches at least, and liberally manured with well-decom posed stable manure or a good compost. The quantity of manure must vary according to the degree of natural fertility of the soil. In one ease, a quantity equal to six inches deep all over the surface would not be too much ; while in other cases, half that would be enough. We would prefer not to make a strawberry planta- tion twice on the same ground; but when circumstances render it inconvenient to change, rows of young plants APPENDIX. 137 might be set. or allowed to establish themselves from the runners, between the old rows, which can then be turned under with the spade, and will serve to enrich the ground. Now as to varieties. On this point there is room for a great diversity of opinion, and we cannot hope to name a list that will be acceptable to a very large num- ber of persons, at least in many parts of the country. Planters must have recourse to the best experience to be found in their respective localities; in the mean time we shall express our opinion of a few varieties, and let it go for what it is worth. It happens that in this country the greater number of our most productive varieties have but one set of the organs of fecundation. A fruitful flower must have both pistils and stamens perfectly developed. The stamens are regarded as the male organs, and the pistils the female. When a flower has well-developed pistils, but no stamens, or imperfect ones, 1t must be impregnated by pollen from other flowers. Where a flower has no pistils, or has imperfect ones, it 1s utterly barren. A large number of our best American vari- eties—such as Hovey’s Seedling, Burr's New Pine, McAvoy’s Superior, Moyamensing, &c.—are wanting in stamens, and therefore foreign impregnation is neces- sary, In Europe this distinction is not observed to any extent, and all the English and continental varie. 138 APPENDIX. ties, as far as we know, are hermaphrodite. In this country very many of them fail from an imperfect development of the pistils, and are consequently bar- ren, owing doubtless to the effects of climate and cul- ture. It is not necessary that the two should be in close proximity; they are sure to get impregnated, if in the same garden, as the pollen is carried about from one flower to another by insects. The beds of the different sorts may be kept entirely separate. Mixing them up is a bad way, as the one outgrows and over- runs the other, and they become so confused that nothing can be done with them. On this account many have grown tired of keeping up the distinction, and have resolved to cultivate hermaphrodite sorts only. The following varieties are the best on the long list of those we have tested on our own grounds: PISTILLATE.—Burr’s New Pine, Jenny’s Seedling, McAvoy’s Superior, Hovey’s Seedling, Moyamensing, Monroe Scarlet, and Crimson Cone. The finest flavored variety among these is Burr’s New Pine; the largest, Hovey’s Seedling; and the finest and best for market, Jenny’s Seedling and Crimson Cone. Hovey’s Seed: ling, in Western New York, and in many parts of the West, is a very moderate, and, in many cases, a poor bearer. We have had no crop so heavy the past season - (when all bore well) as on the Monroe Scarlet. APPENDIX. 189 SrAMINATE, OR HerMapHRopiTe.—Large. Early Scarlet, Walker’s Seedling, Lowa, Boston Pine, and Genesee. All these may be grown successfully for market, and are good, without being first-rate in flavor. We think much more of Walker's Seedling now than we did last season. It is very hardy, and a great bearer. It appears to be a seedling from the Black Prince. The Boston Pine is the most uncertain on the whole list; without good soil and culture it fails entirely. Besides the above list, we would recommend to amateurs, who are willing to bestow thorough cultiva- tion and care on their plants, the British Queen, which, when well grown, surpasses in size, beauty and excel- lence, any we have named. The Bicton Pine, a large and beautiful white variety, whieh ripens late. We have had a fine crop of it this season, although our plants—being set last year—were seriously injured last winter. Like all the foreign sorts, it needs protection, and a deep, rich soil, with abundant moisture. The Wood Strawberries—red and white—bear most pro- fusely in all places and last a long time ; besides, they part freely from the calyx, and are therefore easily and rapidly picked, and their flavor is rich and agreeable to most people. In addition to these, we must mention the Bush Alpine, (having no runners), perpetual bear- ers, if kept liberally supplied with moisture. They 140 APPENDIX. deserve much more extensive cultivation than they now receive. With their assistance, we may enjoy strawberries not one month only but four months. APPENDIX KE. LETTER FROM PETER. B. MEAD. SEPTEMBER Ist, 1854. R. G. PARDEE, Esq.: Dear Sir—Y our request, that I would give you a few remarks on the culture of the strawberry, I will now comply with, but necessarily in a brief manner. First let me say, that I am glad to learn that you are about to publish a manual On Straw- berry Culture. Yow long experience and marked success will enable you to invest the subject with unu- sual interest. We cannot always command just such a soil as we want; but we generally have the material at hand to modify it so as to answer our purpose very well. For the strawberry I prefer a sandy loam, well drained, and a southern exposure. An eastern aspect is also good. Animal manures I do not much use, except on a few of the hermaphrodites, and then very sparingly, and only that which is well decomposed. I much prefer prepared muck, leaf-mould, &. When a stimu- APPENDIX. 141 lant is required, a solution of guano, the salts of am- monia, dilute tannic acid, or a top-dressing of guano,* superphosphate of lime, potash, &c., answers the pur- pose well. I prefer the ammonia and tannic acid. In a garden, strawberries should be planted in beds, and each kind kept distinct. Make the beds three feet wide, put three plants in a row, the two outside ones being six inches from the edge of the bed; the plants will then be one foot apart. The rows should be eighteen inches apart; but in a small garden they may be one foot apart. Select young plants in preference to old ones. Set the plant up to the crown, but do not cover it. Keep the ground open and porous, and free from weeds. A word as to to the best tme for planting. I prefer early spring; but where a supply of water is at hand, it may be done at any time; for only give the strawberry plenty of water, and it will defy any amount of heat. I would remark, en passant, that whoever attempts to water his strawberries must do it thorough- ly, if he would have his plants derive any benefit from it. A thorough soaking once a week will do more good than fifty sprinklings a day. Where water is not at hand, the planting should be done during Aug:st and * Further experience has led me to discard the use of guano, particularly as a top-dressing. It is not only too stimulating for the strawberry, but rapidly dissolves the vegetable constituents of the soil, which I consider essential to the plant —January, 1856. 142 APPENDIX. September, taking advantage of a heavy rain. I prefer the early part of September; in fact, I have planted Hovey, Burr’s New Pine, Walker's Seedling, and others, as late as the 21st of October, and every plant survived the winter without covering of any kind; but I would not recommend planting later than Sep- tember. Next, a few words about mulching and after-treatment. Latterly I have seldom resorted to mulching. I have a rake seven inches wide with prongs eight inches long, made of highly tempered steel. This is my mulcher. With this instrument I work between the rows from spring till fall; and frequently when the plants are in fruit. I know I shall be told that this is a dangerous practice, and I admit that it is in inexperienced hands; indeed, I would not trust another to use it among my own plants, owing to the danger of injuring their fibres; and yet I use it myself within an inch of the crown. When, therefore, I cannot give the necessary personal attention to my plants, I resort to the next best mulcher, which is tan, either spent or fresh. I prefer the latter. The ground should first be well stirred, and the tan applied not more than one inch thick. If too much is applied it is apt to ferment and kill the plants. Many fine beds have been destroyed in this way. Where tan cannot be had, leaves from the woods may be used. These make an admirable ——s APPENDIX. _ 148 mulch, and promise, in my opinion, to take the first place among mulchers. Hay, straw, grass, sawdust, &e., are also good; but whatever is used for this purpose, the crown of the plants must in no case be covered. The beds having been properly made, the after- treatment becomes a very simple matter; indeed, I know of no plant that gives such generous returns at so small a cost of labor; but you must not infer from this that I justify anything like neglect. The beds must be looked over occasionally, runners removed, weeds pulled up, and everything kept neat and clean. In the spring, rake the mulching into the walks, stir up the soil, apply a top-dressing if needed, and then put back the mulching. The best mode, however, is to apply one of the solutions before mentioned, after the fruit has set. The bearing-season may be considerably prolonged by thorough watering, and will amply repay the trouble where the means are at hand. As soon as the plants have done bearing, they will throw out run- ners, which must be pinched off, unless plants are wanted for new beds. I have no time to add more here, except to say, that he who would have good strawberries must cultivate them; by which I mean the opposite of letting them take care of themselves, You will doubtless expect me to add a few words in regard to some of the leading varieties; but it would 144 APPENDIX. be impolitic for me to say much. on this point, since you know I am now testing all the new varieties, and conducting a series of experiments having reference tc the natural history of this most interesting plant. Friends have furnished me with varieties entirely new, and not yet sent out; but these I have only had under trial since last May, and it would be quite premature to say much about them, though some of them are very promising. lam daily expecting more. At some future time I shall review them all. I do not hesitate to say, however, that the following are good, with- out at present designating them in any other way: McAvoy’s Superior, Hovey’s Seedling, Moyamensing, Burr’s New Pine, Black Prince, Pennsylvania,* Mc- Avoy’s Extra Red, (rather acid), Boston Pine, Alice Maude, Longworth’s Prolific, Excellente, Walker’s Seedling, Beach’s Queen, Large Early Scarlet, Ange- lique. But I rather think I will stop, for I know not where this may lead me. Barr’s New White and Bicton Pine are both large white varieties; the former is best. * Pennsylvania will not bear well or produce good fruit except under generous treatment; certainly not under trees, where, strangely enough, I have seen it while undergoing a trial ; and, as may natu- rally be supposed, a severe trial it proved. To the above list might be added, Scott’s Seedling, Kate, Monroe Scarlet, Wilson’s Seed- ling, Barry’s No. 1, and others. No.1, in my opinion, is much the best of Mr. Barry’s Seedlings.—January, 1856. : ¥ q APPENDIX. 145 You also tell me you mean to add some directions about the culture of currants, gooseberries, and other small fruits, as well as the grape. These things should be better grown than they generally are. Gooseberries and currants are usually seen as a mass of half-decayed branches, without form or sightliness. It is next to impossible to bring these into shape, or develop their maximum productiveness. It is better to begin anew. Procure plants struck from cuttings; grow them with a clean stall not less than six inches in height; prune them every winter, keeping the heads well open, and shorten in last season’s growth in the currant, but not in the gooseberry. These fruits are generally planted against the fence, or in some out-of-the-way corner, just where they should not be. Give them an open exposure, plenty of manure, and good culture, and you will be amply rewarded. The Red Dutch is best for general purposes; but Knight’s Sweet Red, Cherry, Prince Albert, White Grape, and others, may be added where there is room. The raspberry and blackberry are also desirable in a garden, furnishing a delicious fruit at an opportune season. They both require a deep, rich soil. The blackberry may be planted against an east fence, ahd about the best places in the garden. The old wood of the raspberry the raspberry against a west fence should be cut out after it has ceased bearing, and some 146 APPENDIX. four or five canes of the new growth retained for next season. The blackberry should be winter pruned, and shortened in about the last of July. They should both be tied to stakes or to the fence, and the ground kept free from weeds. Of raspberries, the Fastolf, Red Antwerp, and Yellow Antwerp are among the best. Dr. Brinckle has raised several seedlings, one of which, Col. Wilder, I have grown and found to be good: The above in some localities, will need protection in winter, which is best done by bending down the canes and covering them with earth. Mr. Van Dewenter, of Astoria, has a new everbearmg raspberry, which will prove to be an acquisition.* Of blackberries, the Improved High Bush (of Boston) nd the New Rochelle are now pretty well known. The latter is certainly the best, and most productive: it is a most beautiful fruit, and worthy of general cul- tivation. I saw a basket of this fruit from Mr. Rose- velt, of Pelham, Westchester Co., the berries of which measured from three to three inches and a half in cir- cumference. Mr. Lawton has also shown fine speci- mens. About a year since, while at Chester, Morris. * This is really a continual bearer, being loaded with fruit until further growth is checked by the severity of the frost. It is a good fruit of fair size, and ought to be widely disseminated. The Cata- wissa, which is represented to possess the same everbearing quali- ties, I have not seen. Dr. Brincklé’s Orange proves to be among the best of all raspberries—January, 1856. APPENDIX. 147 Co., N. J., I saw a blackberry growing wild, closely resembling the New Rochelle, and quite equal to it. I have a variety, however, which I consider superior to either of the above in point of flavor. It is very distinct in wood and foliage, and a strong grower. It is a hybrid variety, and may be had of Mr. More, of Yorkville. To say anything important of the grape in a few lines is no easy matter. The best soil, I apprehend, is a gravelly loam, thoroughly underdrained, and sub- soiled or trenched. We expect the vine to yield its fruit for a lifetime at least, and should prepare the soil accordingly. ‘The ground having been trenched, dig a hole not less than three feet square and two feet deep, and fill up nearly a foot with a compost of manure, bones, broken charcoal, lime rubbish, and vegetable mould, or as many of these materials as can be pro- cured, but no dead dogs, cats, or horses. Over this compost put a layer of the best soil; then take your vine, spread the roots in their natural position, and fill - up carefully. Vines three and four years old are the best, if they have been properly cared for, otherwise I would prefer those two yearsold. Pruning is a mat- terof the first importance. In gardens, vines are grown upon either arbors or trellises, and the same kind of pruning will not answer for both. The arbor is gene- rally used for the purpose ©f shade as well as fruit, 148 APPENDIX. and here spur-pruning is generally practised, but carried to such an extreme, that in the course of years the vines become knotty, stunted, and unproductive. The first year, little or no pruning is necessary; if there is much top, however, it must be cut into two or three good-eyes. The vine is very tractable, and may be trained in the most symmetrical manner; this, however, is too often done at the expense of the best fruit-wood. In the case of the arbor, after the leaders have been trained to their places, and the vines have come into bearing, do not prune closer than three eyes. If the growth is likely to be too much, rub out the middle eye, leaving the third for fruit, and the first for bearing next year; at which time cut away all the wood down to this first shoot, which latter must be cut to three eyes, rubbing out the second as before, and so on from year to year. The truth is, it would require several pages to explain this matter fully, but I have no time for it. In the case of the trellis, what garden- ers call cane-pruning is the best. Select as many shoots as are wanted, and cut out all the rest; these shoots are then shortened into the first good eye; but if this should leave them too long, they must be cut to the desired length. I regret that I have not time to explain this fully ; but the principle is, to get rid of last year’s bearing-wood, and keep the new wood as near to the body as possible. The grape bordermust be manured, APPENDIX. 149 spaded, and cultivated with as much care as you would bestow on a crop of corn. A summer pruning is also necessary, which consists in thinning out the superflu- ous growth, and pinching in the laterals. The leaves of the grape-vine must in no case be removed. The best time to prune is in the fall and early winter. The best grapes for this latitude are the Isabella, Catawba, and Early Black, or Madeira; the latter only for the garden; the Charter Oak, Royal Muscadine, (a synonyme), and others of that class, are worthless hum- bugs. ‘The Diana is a small, sweet and rather pleasant grape, and desirable for localities where the Isabella will not ripen.* The Clinton and some others which are well spoken of I have had no opportunity of test- ing, and I have seen the fruit of many seedlings, which deserve no further mention, with the exception of a white variety with the Catawba flavor, and ripening first of September. I think this last will prove to be avery good grape. But this letter has reached a great length, and I must close it, with all its shortcomings. If it con- * T have elsewhere stated, in a report, as the result of further experience, that I consider the Diana valuable for general cultiva- tion ; and since then, the American Pomological Society has put it on its general list. It is certainly a fine grape. The Concord, in regard to which there has been so much controversy, is deserving, of a full and fair trial—dJanuary, 1856. 150 APPENDIX. tains anything of use to you for the purposes of your manual, you are at liberty to do what you please with it. Sincerely yours, Perer B. MEAD. APPENDIX F. THE FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GARDEN. BY AN AMATEUR. THERE are a few accessories of the homestead more important than a good fruit and vegetable garden ; no home is perfect without them. If there is one thing more than another which adds to the comforts of a poor man’s cottage, it is a well-kept garden, in its largest sense; nay, it is a luxury, even to the millionaire. A well-regulated house within, and a well-kept garden without, make up much of the sum of human happi- ness. How few such there are! The garden is too generally looked upon as something to minister to the mere appetite; but, when rightly regarded, it exercises a moral and intellectual influence, which gives it a strong claim to the serious consideration of all who feel any concern in the ultimate destiny of the human race. Horticultural pursuits, above all others, bring into healthy play those powers of body and mind, the mutual exercise of which alone can keep up that just ma APPENDIX. 151 equilibrium of the physical, intellectual, and moral forces which makes the true man. I will now submit a few practical remarks on what may be called the Cottage Vegetable Garden, or rather Fruit and Vegetable Garden; for, on a limited plot, they ought not to be separated. There is no good reason why a man with three or four city lots, each 25 by 100 feet, should not indulge the luxury of a few choice fruits, equally with him who owns his acres. In what follows, it is supposed that the lots run north and south, the house being built on the north front, and the flower-garden separated from the vege- table by a rose-trellis the full width of the lots. The flower-garden and lawn will occupy another article. Let us suppose a man has four lots of ground, two - of which are taken up with a house, lawn, flower-gar- den, &c. He will then have a plot 50 by 100 for a fruit and vegetable garden. Now it will not do to use half of this up with walks—a thing quite too common. Beginning at the rose-trellis, lay off a central walk four feet wide, through the length of the garden ; then, immediately behind the rose-trellis, lay off a grape- border ten feet wide, and parallel with this a walk three feet wide, stopping three feet short of each side- fence; then borders three feet wide next the east and west fence; then, parallel with these, a walk three feet wide; then a central walk four feet wide, through the 152 APPENDIX. width of the garden, and a walk three feet wide close to the south fence. This arrangement will make four large central beds, each 40 by 17 feet, besides the bor- ders. The beds and borders should be edged with box, kept closely cut. The whole garden should be trenched two or three feet deep. To make the walks, dig out the soil three feet deep; fill in with stones about one foot, and cover them with stout brush; then put in the soil, and finish with about six inches of coarse sand or gravel, raising the walks a little in the middle. Roll them from time to time till they become settled; a good coating of salt will help to make them hard, and keep them free from weeds. Walks thus made will keep your feet dry, and your beds tolerably well drained—the latter an object which should never be lost sight of, especially where early fruit and vege- tables are desired. There are some matters connected with grading and levelling, which must be determined by the circumstances of each particular case. Lastly, there should be some eighteen inches of good soil, of which sod mould is the very best. No amateur can hope to have a good garden, pleasantly worked, unless everything is properly prepared from the beginning; hence these particulars. Now let us see what permanent ‘fixtures’ are wanted. Four feet from the rose-trellis, put in a row of posts, six or seven feet high and eight feet apart, APPENDIX. 153 upon which stretch four stout wires. Plant a grape- vine between each post, and keep them well pruned, on the cane system. Eschew all charlatans and hum. bugs, whether in the shape of men or vines, and among the latter, especially the Charter Oak. The walk, if made as directed, will keep this border well drained— a matter of much moment, where well-flavored grapes are desired. ‘Two or three loads of gravel, incorpo- rated with the soil, would make it still more congenial to the grape. Between each vine, and some three feet from the box edging, put in a rhubarb plant, and under it a good heap of manure. This is a good arrangement, notwithstanding some may object to it. In the centre of this border, where the wide walk intersects it, a summer-house may be erected. In the border around the east fence, plant the black- berry, some three or four feet apart; in the west bor- der, plant the raspberry at about the same distance. It would be well, however, to reserve a portion of the west border for a few plants of sage, parsley, thyme, &c. There now remain the four large beds, the borders of which may be occupied with dwarf fruit trees; no others should ever be grown in a garden, and by no means plant them in an auger-hole. I would recom- mend chiefly pears; but, for the sake of variety, a couple of plums, apricots, cherries, quinces, &c., may be added. These should be planted in the border of 7% 154 APPENDIX. the large beds, about three feet from the box edging, and some eight feet apart. Between each tree a cur- rant or gooseberry bush may be planted; these should be raised from cuttings, grown to a single stalk, and regularly winter-pruned. This mode of planting is good in itself,and leaves all but the border of the large beds for the vegetables, strawberries, &. One bed may be occupied with strawberries and asparagus, but the latter must be kept three or four feet from the fruit trees. Having disposed of the principal permanent arrange- ments, let us look for a moment at such vegetables as will have to be raised annually. For this purpose we have left three of the large beds. It is taken for granted that a good supply of well-prepared barn-yard manure has been procured, as well as a set of steel garden implements, which latter should always be kept as bright as a new penny. First make up your mind what you will grow, and how much of it. Then spread on a good coating of manure, and spade twelve inches deep. It is surprising to a novice how much can be grown on a given surface. Beets, carrots, salsify, parsnips, lima beans, and some others, will occupy the ground the whole season. Beets should be sown thick, in drills six inches apart, each alternate row to be used for greens, as well as the thinnings of the others. Between the carrots, &c., radishes may be sown. APPENDIX. 155 Lettuce, radishes, &c., may be sown in the raspberry and blackberry borders. Peas should be sown in double drills six inches apart, at intervals of three feet. Between the peas may be planted beets for greens, radishes, spinach, lettuce, &c., making two drills of each. The peas will come off in time for turnips, late cabbage, brocoli or celery; the latter should be planted in beds, the earth thrown out one spade deep, the celery planted in rows, one foot apart, and the plants from six to ten inches in the rows. Snap beans will be off in time for cabbage, turnips, fall spinach, &c. If beans are wanted in the fall, they may follow onions, where these have been grown from sets. A few cucumbers may be planted in the fruit border. Sugar-corn should be planted in drills three _feet apart, the plants six’ inches in the drills for the small early varieties, and about a foot for others. For a succession, plant from early spring till the first week in July, two or more drills at a time, according to the wants of the family. Corn map may be planted after some of the crops named above. If one piece of ground is used, a portion of it will give you some early spinach and peas. Radishes may also be planted from time to time along the fruit border, but too much of that will injure the trees. A few egg-plants and peppers may also be planted in the fruit border, but not imme- diately under the trees. By the exercise of a little sd ~ 156 APPENDIX. judgment, a variety of things may be made to follow each other in this way, so that no spot of ground need necessarily remain unersupied for a single day during the whole season. The ground must be kept free from weeds, and well worked at all times. When the weather is dry, use the hoe more frequently than usual, (a narrow, low-pronged rake is best), which will enable the ground to absorb moisture from the atmosphere, of which it always con- tains some, even in the dryest weather. Frequent stirring of the soil is important in another respect, in keeping it open and porous, and enabling it to take up the gases of the atmosphere, which constitute no inconsiderable portion of the food of plants. It wil also give an earlier and better crop. Discard the prac- tice of earthing your plants; except for the purpose of blanching. Halling should not be tolerated, except in soils naturally retentive of moisture; the true remedy for which consists in underdraining, and not in hilling. The preceding remarks are mostly of a general nature, but a few words may be said here of the time and labor necessary to cultivate and keep in order a garden like that here described. A person familiar with the operations to be performed, and expert in the use of implements, can generally perform the necessary labor (unless he is dronish) without detriment to his daily business; on the contrary, he will find himself APPENDIX. fot invigorated for the discharge of its duties. At all events, he will need but a few days’ assistance for the rough work. I know that very much more than this has been done for years, and will continue to be done. I speak this for the encouragement of those who desire to surround their homes with these luxuries, but whose means will not permit them to employ a permanent gardener. Much time is lost for want of proper know- ledge. The best advice I can give the novice is, first to learn what is to be done, and then learn how to do it, and always do it well. May the day come when even the common laborer shall be blessed with the comforts of a good home, and rejoice ‘under his own vine and”’ fruit “tree!” - AU the Books on this Catalogue sent by mail, w any par. of the Union, free of postage, upon receipt of Price. CATALOGUE OF BOOKS ON AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE, PUBLISHED BY Be Mi VEE CY Bt (LATE C, M. SAXTON & COMPANY,) No. 140 FULTON STREET, NEW YORK, SUITABLE FOR SCHUOL, TOWN, AGRICULTURAL, AND PRIVATE LIBRARIES. THE AMERICAN FARMER’S ENCYCLOPEDIA, - - - $4 00 EMBRACING ALL THE Recent Discoveries In AGRIULTURAL CHEM- istry, and the use of Mineral, Vegetable and Animal Mannures, with Descriptions and Figures of American Insects injurious to Vegetation. Being a Complete Guide for the cultivation of every variety of Garden and Field Crops. Lliustrated by numerous En- ‘ravings of Grasses, Grains, Animals, Implements, Insects, &c. By GovvERNEUR MEREON, Of Pennsylvania, upon the basis of Johnson’s Farmer's Encyclopedia. DOWNING'S (A. J.) LANDSCAPE GARDENING, 2 = 8 50 A TREATISE ON THE THEORY AND Practice ~~ * 4NDSCAPE Gar- dening. 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Fully Dlustrated with Drawings of Approved Machinery ; With an Appendix by Lronarp Wray, of Caffraria, and a description of his patented process of crystalliz- ing the juice of the Imphee ; with the latest American experiments, including those of 1857, in the South. By Henry 8S. Orcotr. To which are added translations of valu- ae French Pamphlets, reeeived from the Hon. Joun Y, Mason, American Minister at Paris. THE STABLE BOOK, - - - - - - - 1 60 A TREATISE ON THE MANAGEMENT OF Horses, IN RELATION TO Stabling, Groom?” “ «ding, Watering and Working, Construction of Stables, Ventila- tion, Appendages v1 stables, Management of the Feet, and of Diseased and Defective Horses. By Joun Stewart, Veterinary Surgeon. With Notes and Additions, adapt- ing it to American Food and Climate. By A. B. AuLen, Editor of the American Agriculturist. 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Y. FIELD’S PEAR CULTURE, - - 2 — - 3 75 THE PrEar Garpen; or, a Treatise on the Propagation and Cultivation of tho Pear Tree, with Instructions for its Management from the Seedling to the Bearing Tree. By Tuomas W. Fixup, Books Published by A. O. Moore. a QL — eee pa det ae he Snare ~~ BRIDGEMAN’S (THOS.) YOUNG GARDENER’S A&Ss! STANT, $1 50 In Turee Parrs, Containing Catalogues of Garden and Flower Seed, with Practical Directions under each head for the Cultivation of Culinary Vege: tables and Flowers. Also directions for Cultivating Fruit Trees, the Grape Vine, &c., t» which is edded, a Calendar to each part, showing the work necessary to be done iz the various departments each month of the year. One volume octavo. 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AMERICAN ARCHITECT, oe cara acura s 6 02 Tus AMERICAN ARcHITECT, Comprising original Designs of Cheap Country and Village Residences, with Details, Specifications, Plans and Directions, and an Estimate of the Cost of Each Design. By Joun W. Riven, Architect. First and Second Series, 4to, bound in 1 vol. in the Flower-Garden, Hot-House, Green-House, Rooms or Parlor Windows, for every Month in the Year; with a Description of the Plants most desirable in each, the nature of the Soil and Situation best adapted to their Growth, the Proper Season for ‘Trans- planting, &c. ; with Instructions for Erecting @ Hot-Honse, Green-House, and Laying out a Flower Garden: the whole adapted to either Large or Small Gardens, with In- structions for Preparing the Soil, Propagating, Planting, Pruning, Training and Fruit- . ing the Grape Vine. THE AMERICAN BIRD FANCIER, - * - © = CONSIDERED WITH REFERENCE TO THE BreEPING, REARING, FErD- ing, Management and Peculiarities of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with Engrav- ings. By D. Jay Browne. REEMELIN’S (CHAS.) VINE DRESSER’S MANUAL, - # 50 An IniustRaTED TREATISE ON Vinevarps anp Wine-Maxine, containing Full Instructions as to Location and Soil, Preparation of Ground, Selection and Propagation of Vines, the Treatment of Young Vineyards, Trimming and Training the Vines, Manures, and the Making of Wine. DANA’S MUCK MANUAL, FOR THE USE OF FARMERS, - 1 00 A TREATISE ON THE PHysicaL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF Soils and Chemistry of Manures* including, also, the subject of Composts, Artificial Manures and Irrigation. A new edition, with a Chapter on Bones and Superphos- phates. CHEMICAL FIELD LECTURES FOR AGRICULTURISTS, - 100 By Dr. Jorws ADOLPHUS SrockHaRDT, Professor in the Royal Academy of Agriculture at Tharant, Translated from the German. Edited, with notes, by Jam. 5 E. TECHEMAOCHER. & Books Published by A. O. Moorn. a a LES ORR IE RENE nt a BUIST’S (REOERT) FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER, - - 807 Contarninc Prawn anv: ACCURATE DrsorIPTiIons oF 4L% THE Dir- ferent Species and Varieties of Culinary Vegetables, with their Botanical, English, French and German names, alphabetically arranged, with the Best Mode of Cultivating them in the Garden or under Glass; also Descriptions and Character of the most Select Fruits, their Management, Propagation, &c. By Ropert Buist, author of the “Am. erican Flower Garden Directory,” &e. DOMESTIC AND ORNAMENTAL POULTRY, Plain Plates, = 190 Do. Do. Do. Colored Plates, . 200 A TREATISE ON THE History AND MANGEMENT OF ORNAMENTAL end Domestic Poultry. By Rev. Epmunp Sav. Drxon, A.M., with large additions by J. J. Kerr, M.D. Ilustrated with sixty-five Original Portraits, engraved exprestly fot this work. Fourth edition revised. HOW TO BUILD AND VENTILATE HOT-HOUSES, - - 125 A Practica, TREATISE ON THE Construction, Heating anp Ventilation of Hot-Houses, including Conservatories, Green-Honses, Graperies and other kinds of Horticultural Structures, with Practical Directions for their Manage ment, in regard to Light, Heat and Air. Illustrated with numerous engravings. By P. B. Levouars, Garden Architect, CHORLTON’S GRAPE-GROWER’S GUIDE, - - - - 60 IxrenpED EsprcraLLy For THE AMERICAN Crate. Being a Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape Vine in each department of Hou House, Cold Grapery, Retarding House and Out-docr Culture. With Plans for th« Construction of the Requisite Buildings, and giving the best methods for Heating the same. Every department being fully illustrated. By Wititam Cuorton. NORTON’S (JOHN P.) ELEMENTS OF SCIENTIFIC AGRICULTURE, 6¢@ OR, THE CONNECTION BETWEEN SCIENCE AND THE ArTor PRacticat, Farming. Prize Essay of the New York State Agricultural Society. By Jonn P, Norton, M.A., Professor of Scientific Agriculture in Yale College. Adapted to the use of Schools, JOHNSTON’S (J. F. W.) CATECHISM OF AGRICULTURAL CHEM. ISTRY AND GEOLOGY, - _—e ISTRY AND GEOLOGY, - - 100 With a Complete Analytical and Alphabetical Index and an American Preface. By Hon. Simon Brown. Editor of the “New England Farmer,’ JCHNSTON’S (JAMES F. W.) AGRICUL’ Ul AL CHEMISTRY, 1 26 LrEcTURES ON THE APPLICATION OF (“HEMISTRY AND GEoLoGy TO Agriculture. New edition, with an Appendix, containing the Author's Experiments in Practical Agriculture. THE: COMPLETE FARMER AND AMERICAN GARDENER, 1 25 Rurat Economist anp New American GARDENER ; Containing a Compendious Epitome of the most Important Branches of Agriculture and Rurai Economy ; with Practical Directions on the Cultivation of Fruits and Vegetables, in- anne Landscape and Ornamental Gardening. By.Tuomas G. FEssenpex. 2 vola, D ole. fESSENDEN’S (T. G.) AMERICAN KITCHEN GARDENER, - 5S Contarininea DrrecrTIons FOR THE CULTIVATION OF VEGETABLES AND Garden Fruits. Cloth. Books Published by A. O. Muore. 5 pl on penne Neate pte ef ae A PT IPD AP AAT IR AP OL AL AG AD AD AL AD AAA AL ODA A So NASH’S (J. A.) PROGRESSIVE FARMER, - - » - $0 60 A Sorentiric TREATISE ON AGRICULTURAL CHEMISTRY, THE Ger- clogy of Agriculture, on Plants and Animals, Manures and Soils, applied to Practical Agriculture; with a Catechism of Scientific and Practical Agriculture. By J. A. Nasa, ERECE’S BOOK OF FLOWERS, - - ~ . - 100 IN WHICH ARE DESCRIBED ALL THE Various Harpy HERBACEOUS Perennials, Annuals, Shrubs, Plants and Evergreen Trees, with Directions for their Cultivation. &MITH’S (C. H. J.) LANDSCAPE GARDENING, PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS, -~ - - - - - - 2 1 25 Wri Practicat Norges on Country Restpences, VILLAS, PuBLIC Parks and Gardens. By Caries H. J. Saurrn, Landscape Gardener and Garden aso rae &e. With Notes and Additions by Lewis F. Auuen, author of ‘Rural rehitecture. {HE COTTON PLANTER’S MANUAL, ~~ - - = - 1 00 @ Bewc a Compmation or Facts From THE Brest AUTHORITIES ON the Culture of Cotton, its Natural History, Chemical Analysis, Trade and Consumption, and embracing a History of Cotton and the Cotton Gin. By J. A. TURNER. UOBBETT’S AMERICAN GARDENER, - - - - 50 A TREATISE ON THE SITUATION, SOIL, AND LayING-oUT OF GARDENS, and the making and managing of Hot-Beds and Green-Houses, and on the Propagation and Cultivation of the several sorts of Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits and Flowers. ALLEN (J. FISK) ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE, - 100 A Practica, TREATISE ON THE CULTURE AND TREATMENT OF THE Grape Vine, embracing its History, with Directions for its Treatment in the United States of America, in the Open Airand under Glass Structures, with and without Artificial Heat. By J. Fisk ALLEN. ALLEN’S (R. L) DISEASES OF DOMESTIC ANIMALS, - 75 Berna A History AND DESCRIPTION OF THE Horsr, Mure, Cattie, Sheep, Swine, Poultry, and Farm Dogs, with Directions for their Management, Breed- ing, Crossing, Rearing, Feeding, and Preparation for a Profitable Market ; also, their Diseases and Remedies, together with fu’! Directions for the Management of the Dairy, and the comparative Economy and Advantages of Working Animals, the Horse, Mule, Oxen, &e. By R. L. ALLEN. ALLEN’S (R. L.) AMERICAN F£M BOOK, - ° - 100 Tae Amertcan Farm Boox ; or, a Compend of American Acricul- ture, being a Practical Treatise on Soils, Manures, Draining, Irrigation, Grasses, Grain, Roois, Fruits, Cotton, Tobacco, Sugar Cane, Rice, and every Staple Product of the United States; with the Best Methods of Planting, Cultivating and Preparation for Market. Illustrated with more than 100 engravings. By R. L. ALLEN. ALLEN’S (L. F.) RURAL ARCHITECTURE ; * - - 1 25 Brmnc A CompLetTe Description or Farm Houses, CoTraGEs, AND Ont Buildings, comprising Wood Houses, Workshops, Tool Houses, Carriage and Wagon Houses, Stables, Smoke and Ash Houses, Ice Houses, Apiaries or Bee Houses, Poultry Houses, Rabbitry, Dovecote, Piggery, Barns, and Sheds for Cattle, &c., &, together with Lawns, Pleasure Grounds, and Parks; the Flower, Fruit, and Vege« table Garden; also useful and ornamental domestic Animals for the Country Resident, &e., &e Also, the best method of conducting water into Cattle Yards and Houses, Beautifully illustrated. WARING’S ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTURE; = = 2 "5 A Beok ror YOUNG FARMERS, WITH QUESTIONS FOR THE USE OF Schools. 6 Books Published by A. O. Muon. Sin Die Nig deren coe ee ee ee ae PARDEE (8. &.) ON STRAWBERRY CULTURE ; - - 50 60 A CompLerE Manvan For THE CULTIVATION OF THE STRAWBERRY - with a description of the best varieties. Also, notices of the Raspberry, Blackberry, Currant, Gooseberry, and Grape; with directions for their cultivation, and the selection of the best varieties. ‘“ Every process here recommended has been proved, the plans of others tried, and the result is here given.” With a valuable appendix, containing the observations and experience of some of the most successful cultivators of these fruits in our couniry. ‘GUENON ON MILCH COWs; .- 3 60 A. TREATISE on Mitcu Cows, whereby the Quality and Quantity of Milk which any Cow will give may be accurately determined by observing Natura’ Marks or External Indications alone; the length of time she will continue to give f Milk, &., &. By M. Franois GUENON, of Libourne, France. Translated by Nicuo- LAS P. Trist, Esq.; with Introduction, Remarks, and Observations on the Cow and the Dairy, by Jonn S. Skinner. Illustrated with numerous engravings. Neatly done up in paper covers, 37 cts. AMERICAN POULTRY YARD; - - - - 169 CoMPRISING THE Ortcin, History anp Description of the diffemgent Breeds of Domestic Poultry, with complete directions for their Breeding, Crossing, Rearing, Fattening, and Preparation for Market ;_ including specific directions for Caponizing Fowls, and for the Treatment of the Principal Diseases to which they are subject, drawn from authentic Sources and personal observation. Illustrated wiih humerous engravings, By D. J. Brownz. BROWNE'S (D. JAY) FIELD BOOK OF MANURES : - 1 25 Or, American Muck Boox ; Treating of the Nature, Properties, Sources, History, and Operations of all the Principal Fertilizers and Manures in Come. mon Use, with specific directions for their Preservation, and Application to the Soil and to Crops; drawn from authentic Sources, actual experience, and personal observa- tion, as combined with the Leading Principles of Practical and Scientific Agriculture- By D. Jay Browne. RANDALL'S (H. 8.) SHEEP HUSBANDRY; - - - 1 25 Wiru an Account or tHE DIrrEReNt Brreps, and general diree- tions in regard to Summer and Winter Management, Breeding, and the Treatment cf Diseases, with Portraits and other Engravings. By Henry 8. RANDALL, THE SHEPHERD’S OWN BOOK; . - - - - 2 00 Wirn an Account or THE DIFFERENT Breeps, Diszasks anp Man. agement of Sheep, and General Directions in regard to Summer and Winter Man. agement, Breeding, and the Treatment of Diseases; with Illustrative Engravings, by Youarr & RANDALL; embracing Skinner's Notes on the Breed and Management of Sheep in the United “tates, and on the Culture of Fine Wool. YOUATT ON SHEEP, - - - - - 3) - - 7 THEIR Brexzp, MANAGEMENT AND DisEaskEs, with Illustrative En- gravings; to which are added Remarks on the Breeds and Management of Sheep in { the Unitel States, and on the Culture of Fine Wool in Silesia, By Witu1am Youart. YOUATT AND MARTIN ON CATTLE; - - - = 1 25 Brine a TREATISE ON THEIR BreEEps, MANAGEMENT, AND Diskases, ‘ comprising a full History of the Various Races; their Origin, Breeding, and Merits; their capacity for Beef and Milk. By W. Yovarr and W. C. L. Martin. The whole forming a Compiete Guide for the Farmer, the Amateur, and the Veterinary Surgeon, with 100 Illustrations. Edited by AmBrosE STEVENS. YOUAIT ON THE HORSE; . - - - - - 1 25 Youarr oN THE STRUCTURE AND DISEASES OF THE Horst, with pete Remedies; Also, Practical Rules for Buyers, Breeders, Smiths, é&c. Edited by . C. Spooner, M.B.C YS. With an account of the Breeds in the United States, by HENRY S. RANDALL. Books Published by A. O. Moors. 1 YOUATT AND MARTIN ON THE HOG; - - - - $0 75 A TREATISE ON THE BREEDS. MANAGEMENT, AND Mepicau Treat- ment of Swine, with Directions for Salting Pork, and Curing Pacon and Hams. Py Wa. Youart, V.S,and W. C. L.Martin. Edited by AmBROSE Stevens. Llustrated with Evgravings drawn from life BLAKE’S (REV. JOHN L.) FARMER AT HOME; ~ 125 A Fatty Text Boox ror tHe Country; being a Cyclopedia of Agricultural Implements and Productions, and of the more important topics in Do- mestic Economy, ‘cience, and Literature, adapted to Rural Life. By Rev. Joun L. bi aKE, D D. BiUNN’S (B.) PRACTICAL LAND DRAINER ; - 4 - 50 Berne a TREATISE ON Drarnine Lanp, in which the most approved systems of Drainage are explained, and their differences and comparative merits dis- cussed; with full Directions for the Cutting and Making of Drains, with Remarks upon the various materials of which they may be constructed. With many illustrations. by B. Munn, Landscape Gardener. ELLIOTT’S AMERICAN FRUIT GROWER’S GUIDE IN ORCHARD Rare GARDEN so. a. ee NO a 5s 125 Bertnc a Compenp or THE History, Moprs or Propagation, CuL- sure, &e., of Fruit Trees and Sh:ubs, with descriptions of nearly all the varieties of Fruits cultivated in this country ; and Notes of their adaptation to localities, soils, and a complete list of i ruits worthy of cultivation. ly F, R. Exiiott, Pomologist. PRACTICAL FRUIT, FLOWER, AND KITCHEN GARDENER’S COM- PANION; i ‘ 160 Wirn a Catenpar. By Patrick Nem, LL.D., F.R.S.E., Secre tary of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society. Adapted to the United States from the fourth edition, revised and improved by the author. Edited by G. EMERSON, M D., Editor of “The American Farmer’s Encyclopedia.” With Notes and Additions by BR. G Paxpexr, author of “ Manual of the Strawberry Culture.” With illustrations STEPHENS’ (HENRY) BOCK CF THE FARM; - - 400 A Cometere GuipE To THE Farmer, STEwaRD, PLOWMAN, Oat- tleman, Shepherd, Field Worker, and Dairy Maid. By Henry STEPHENS. With Four Hundred and Fifty Illustrations; to which are added Explanatory Notes, Remarks, &c., by J. 8. Skmvner. Really one of the best books a farmer can possess. PEDDERS’ (JAMES) FARMERS’ LAND MEASURER; - 5 50 Or, Pocxer Companton ; Showing at one view the Contents of any Piece of Land from Dimensions taken in Yards. With s set of Useful Agricultura. Tables. WHITE'S (W. N.) GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH; - - 1 25 Or, THE Kircuen anp Fruit Garpen, with the best methods for their Cultivation; together with hints upon Landscape and Flower Gardening; con- taining modes of culture and descriptions of the species and varieties of the Culinary Vegetables, Fruit Trees, and Fruits, and a select list of Ornamental Trees and Plants, found by trial adapted to the States of the Union south of Pennsylvania, with Garden- ing Calendars for the same. By Wu. N. Wars, of Athens, Georgia. EASTWOOD (B.) ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE CRANBEFRY ; 50 ‘Wirn A DESCRIPTION OF THE BEST VARIETIES. By B. Eastwoop, “Septimus” of the New York Tribune. AMERICAN BEE-KEEPER’S MANUAL; - - - 2 100 Berng A PracticaL TREATISE ON THE History AnD Domestid Economy of the Honey Bee, embracing a full illustration of the whole subject, with the most approved methods of managing this Insect, through every branch of ite Culture; the result of many years’ experience. Illustrated with many engravings By T. B. Minzs. 8 Books Published by A. O.. Moore. ~~ — THAER’S (ALBERT D.) AGRICULTURE - - - $2 C3 ‘ne PrincrpLes or AGRICULTURE, by ALBERT D. TH ser ; trans Isted by Wrii1aM Suaw and CorsBerr W. Jonson, Esq., F.R.S. With a Memoir of the Author. 1 vol. 8vo. This work is regarded by those who are competent to judge as one of the most beautiful works that has ever appeared on the subject of Agriculture. At the same time that it is eminently practical, it is phileso; hical, and, even to the general reader, remarkably entertaining. BOUSSINGAULT’S (J. B.) RURAL ECONOMY, - - 1 25 Tn its Retations To CueEmistry, Puysics, AND METEOROLOGY : or, Chemistry applied to Agriculture. By J. B. Boussineavutr. Translated, with notes, etc., by GrorcE Law, Agriculturist. “The work is the fruit of a long life of study and experiment, and its perusal will = the farmer greatly in obtaining a practical and scientific knowledge of his profes - on.” MYSTERIES OF BEE-KEEPING EXPLAINED; - - - 100 Brine A CompLerE ANALYSIS OF THE WHOLE SuBJEcT, consisting of the Natural History of Bees; Directions for obtaining the greatest amount of Pure Surplus Honey with the least possible expense; Remedies for losses given, and the Science of Luck fully illustrated; the result of more than twenty years’ experience in extensive Apiaries. By M Quins. THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE-KEEPER ; - - - — 60 A Practica Work, by a Country Curate. WEEKS (JOHN M.) ON BEES.—A MANUAL; . . - 50 Or, aN Easy Mernop or Manacina Bers IN THE MOST PROFITABLE manner to their owner; with infallible rules to prevent their destruction by the Moth. With an appendix, by Wooster A. FLANDERS. THE ROSE; - - 3 a = = = £ 3 50 BEING A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE PRopaGATION, CULTIVATION, and Management ef the Rose in all Seasons; with a list of Choice and Approved Varie- ties, adapted to the Climate of the United States; to which is added full directions for the Treatment of the Dahlia. Llustrated by Engravings. MOORE’S RURAL HAND BOOKS, . - - - - 1 25 First Series, containing Treatises on— THe Horse, Tue Pests oF THE Farm, Tue Hoe, Domestic Fow1s, and Tue Honey Bez, Tue Cow, Sreconp SeEriés, containing— 2 rorivepeis ibe - 1 25 Every LADY HER OWN FLOWER GARDENER, Essay oN MANURES, MLEMENTS OF AGRIOULTUBE, AMERICAN KITCHEN GARDENER, Birp FANcIER, AMERICAN RosE CuLTURIST. Tarp SERIES, containmg— - - - - > 1 25 MILra ON THE Horse's Foot, Vint DressEr’s MANUAL, Tue Rassit Fanoler, Brr-KeeErrr’s CHART, WEEKS ON BEEs, CHEMISTRY MADE Easy. Fourts Serres, containing— - See eee 1 25 PERSOZ ON THE VINE, Hoorer’s Doc AND Gur, Liesic 8s FAMILIAR LETTERS, SKILLFUL HOUSEWIFE, Browne's Memorrs or INDIAN CORN. RICHARDSON ON DOGS: THEIR CRIGIN AND VARIETIES. . 50 DIRECTIONS AS TO THEIR GENERAL ManacemEent. With numerous original anecdotes, Also. Complete Instructions as to Treatment under Disease. By BH. D. Biosarpson. [lustrated with numerous wood engravings. This isnot only acheap work, but one of the best ever published on the Dog. Books Published by A. O. Moons. 5) ee ah EBIG’S (JUSTUS) FAMILIAR LECTURES ON CHEMISTRY, $0 50 Awnp rts RELATION TO COMMERCE PHYSIOLO ? ‘ ATIO} } GY, AND AGRICULTURE Edived by Jony Gagpener, M.D. ’ i ag IBEMENT’S (C. N.) RABBIT FANCIER; - - - = 50 A'TREATISE ON THE BREEDING, REARING, FEEDING, AND GENERAL Management of Rabbits, with remarks upon their diseases and :emedies, to which are added full directions for the construction of Hutches, Rabbitries, &c., together with recipes for copking and dressing for the Table. Beautifully illustrated. THOMPSON (R. D.) ON THE FOOD OF ANIMALS - - a EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCHES ON THE F'oop OF ANIMALS AND THE Fattening of Cattle; with remarks on the Food of Man. Based upon Experiments undertaken by order of the British Government, by Rosert Dunpas THomrson M.D Lecturer on Practical Chemistry, University of Glasgow. * i THE WESTERN FRUIT BOOK; - - = = - 1 25 Berna A CompenpD or THE History, Mopes oF PROPAGATION, CUL- imre, &c., of Fruit Trees and Shrubs, &c., &c. By F. R. ELuiort. THE SKILLFUL HOUSEWIFE; - - - = . . 50 :. Or Compiets Guipe To Domestic Cooxery, Taste, ComFrort, AND conomy, embracing 659 recipes pertaining to Household Duties, the care of Gardening, Birds, Education of Children, &., &c. By Mrs L. G. ABELL. ier THE AMERICAN FLORISYS GUIDE; - - - - > ee ComPRISING THE AMERICAN Rose Cunturist AND Every Lapy HEB own Flower Gardener. EVERY LADY HER 0. N FLOWER GARDENER; - - 238 ADDRESSED TO THE INDUSTRIOUS AND Economican ONLY 3 containing simple and practical Directions for Cultivating Plants and Flowers: also, Pints for fhe Management of Flowers in Rooms, with brief Botanical Descriptions ‘f Piants and Flowers. The whole in plain and simpie language. By Louisa ) OHNS N. FISH CULTURE; = Es 4 4 = = 2 ‘! 1 00 A Trratisn on THR ARTIFICIAL PROPAGATION OF CERTAIN KINDS OF Fish, with the description and habits of such kinds as are most suitable for piscicultare, ‘Also directions for the most successful methods of Angling, illustrated with numerous engravings By THropATUS GARLICK, M.D., Vice President of Cleveland Academy of Natnral Science. FLINT ON GRASSES ; - S = a e ee “ 5 ee) A Practican TREATISE ON Grasses AND FORAGE PLANTS, COMPRIS- ing their natural history, comparative nutritive value, methods of cultivating, cutting, and curing. and the management of grass lands. By Cuas. L. FLunt, A.M., Secretary of Mass. State Board of Agriculture. WARDER ON HEDGES AND EVERGREENS ; - - - 1 690 A Manvat on Live Fences, WITH PARTICULAR DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR planting, eniture and trimming, especially with regard to the Maclura hedges, and how to make it. Also an essay on Evergreens, their varieties, propagation, transplant- ing and enlture in the United States. By Jomm A. WARDER, M.D., President of Cincinnati Horticultural Society. 16 Books Published by A. O. Moore. OD I MOORE’S Hand Hooks or Rural and Domestic Economy. All arranged and adapted to the Use of American Farmere, PRICE 25 CENTS EACH. HOGS; THEIR ORIGIN, VARIETIES AND MANAGEMENT, with a View to Pro- fit, and Treatment under Disease; also Plain Directions relative to the most approved modes of preserving their Flesh. By H. D. Rrcnarpson, author of “The Hive and the Honey Bee,” &., &c. With illustrations—12mo, THE HIVE AND THE HONEY BEE; Wirn Prats Drrections For OBTAINING A CoNSIDERABLE ANNUAL Inesme from this branch of Rural Economy; also an Account of the Diseases of Bees and their Remedies, and Remarks as to their Enemies, and the best mode of protecting the Hives from their attacks. By H.D Ricuarpson. With illustrations. DOMESTIC FOWLS; ‘errr Natura History, Breepinc, REARING, AND GENERAL Management. By H. D. Rrowarpson, author of “The Natural History of the Fossil Peer,” we. With illustrations. THE HOSE; TuHEtR ORIGIN AND VARIETIES; WITH PLAIN DIRECTIONS AS TO THE Breeding, Rearing, and General Management, with Instructions as to the Treatment of Disease. Handsomely illustrated—12mo. By H. D. RicHarpson. THE ROSE; Tur Amertcan Roskt Cuuturist ; being a Practical Treatise on the Propagati vn, Cuitivation, and Management in all Seasons, &c. With full directions for the Treat-nent of the Dahlia. THE Fxs1'S OF THE FARM; ) Wirn Insrructons FoR THEIR Extrrpation; being a Manual of Plain Dirsctions for the certain Destruction of every description of Vermin. With numerous {illustrations on Wood. AN ESSAY ON MANURES; SuBMITTED TO THE TRUSTEES OF THE MASSACHUSETTS SOCIETY FOR Promoting Agriculture, for their Premium. By SamueLt H. Dana. THE AMERICAN BIRD FANCIER; CONSIDERED WITH REFERENCE TO THE BREEDING, REARING, FEED- ing, Management, and Peculiarities of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with Engraw ines. By D. Jay Browne. CHYMISTRY MADE EASY ; For tHe Use or Farmers. By J. Toruam. ELEMENTS OF AGRICULTURE; TRANSLATED FROM THE F'RENCH, and Adapted to the use of American Farmers. By F. G. SKINNER. 3477 “ AGRO RAE) pase Nene a Med ts Lat Baap % eae dra omit hy, be olf * arta w a rae Rl Thana be ‘eve ce RP 4 ; f Na & Ny’ * "it i} ea ae alain | vas | Lae « P rf 1 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS SU ELL 000091439591