TS 1449
INITED STATES ILK ONDITIONING
472-474 BROOME ST., NEW YORK
CONDITIONING 19O8
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
THIS PHOTOGRAPH, OF WHICH A REDUCED COPY APPEARS ON THE
COVER, SHOWS A CORTI SYSTEM CONDITIONING OVEN, IN
OPERATION AT THE LABORATORY OF THE U. S.
SILK CONDITIONING CO., NEW YORK.
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
Laboratory: 472-474 Broome Street, New York City
Conditioning Tests
Their Value in Purchasing, Throwing, Dyeing and ^iVeavmg Silk with Illustrations
Convenient Tables and Units, Metric ami other Equivalents
1908
SiiK. manufacturing is not only a business, but a Science
SIIK conditioning is as necessary to the business as to the Science
HOUTEN COMPANY
409-415 PEARL STREET NEW YORK
CONTENTS
PAGE
Photograph of Corti conditioning oven in operation at United States Silk
Conditioning Company, New York Frontispiece
Resolution of the Board of Managers of the Silk Association of America, designating the United States Silk Conditioning Company as the official
Conditioning House for the Association 4
Officers and Directors of the United States Silk Conditioning Co., 1908 5
Stockholders of the United States Silk Conditioning Co., 1908 5
A Foreword 6
Variation in Tests 7
Photograph showing accurate weighing of samples at United States Silk Con- ditioning Company, New York 7 A
Conditioned Weight Certificate, with illustration of an Invoice for 10 bales
bought conditioned weight, or conditioned weight plus 2 per cent 8-11
Xet Weighing Certificate and Remarks 12-13
Sizing, Twist, and Elasticity and Tenacity, (breaking strength) Certificate, with
explanation and remarks 14-16
Inspection Test 17
Boil-off Certificates, and their value explained 1819
.Measuring Certificate, and its use 20-21
Value of the Combination Test in purchasing, giving Throwsters' clearances... 22-23
Value of tests in Dyeing, illustrated 24-26
The Company's Rules and Regulations, when handling silk 26-28
Metric Equivalents — Measures and Weights 29
Equivalents of Metric Weights in pounds and decimals 30
Equivalents of Pound Weights in kilograms and decimals 31
Equivalents of Ounces in decimals of the pound 32
International Yarn Tables— Preface 33
Equivalents of Drams and Deniers. Table of length, of yards to the-
pound— Raw and Thrown 34-38
Number of yards to the pound of raw silk of one denier (Rule of seven fours) 39 Table of length of yards of silk to the pound in sizes 9/11 to 16/18 deniers,
taking the average of the sizes 40
PART II.
Silk Conditioning, historically considered 41-43
Raw Silk Rules of the American Silk Trade 44-49
Classification of Raw Silk for the American Silk Trade, 1908 50
Recommendations as to Classification, based upon standard samples, selected
each silk season 50
Throwsters' Rules of the American Silk Trade 51-52
Customs Prevailing in Skein Silk Dyeing 53-A5
Manufacturers' Cost Sheets, broad weaves 56-59
Manufacturers' Cost Sheets, narrow weaves 60
Don'ts 61-62
Index 6 -6fi
The Value of Conditioning 67
RESOLUTION OF THE BOARD OF MANAGERS OF THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA
DESIGNATING THE UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COM- PANY AS THE OFFICIAL CONDITIONING HOUSE FOR THE ASSOCIATION
WHEREAS, it is the established custom in the silk centers of the world for the local silk associations and of the National Governments to designate a certain silk conditioning works as the official authority and source of information in making tests of silk in matters of moisture, strength, size, boil-off, etc., and,
WHEREAS, it is believed to be necessary to establish an official recognition of some one silk conditioning establishment in the United States as a governing or authoritative source of information in cases of dispute, as to condition of raw silk or thrown silks coming before Arbitration Committees of this Association, and,
WHEREAS, we deem it to be to the best interests of the members of this Association to recognize the United States Silk Conditioning Company for this purpose;
Therefore, be it
RESOLVED, That the United States Silk Conditioning Com- pany be and hereby is designated as the official conditioning house of this Association, and the Arbitration Committee of the Association, which is elected by this Board, is hereby informed ac- cordingly.
New York, May 22, 1908.
Attest:
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Uniteb States £>tlk (£onbittoning, Company OFFICIAL TESTING HOUSE FOR Ctye Silk association of Clmerica |
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Certificate oj |
Conbittoneb IPeigbt |
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Ho. a 10,000 Hen? £Jor Certificate f or irtr» <L{ w-» i |
Duplicate k Jan._JlBt_t ,qo9» |
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Dhn Doe, New Richard Roef |
York Patei |
i !.B.o-n |
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Ny #550 |
S (Dne* (Sros (0ro£ Care |
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Jale ^&P ^aw s tDeigljt Cbs. >s toeig^t Kilos 0.35 Kilos 0.93 Kilos |
137. 62. 1. |
65 ~44 28 |
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Paper anb Strings 134.83 lbs-ruta> |
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jigfyt Kilos |
61. |
16 |
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Of 18 Skei useb. IDfyicr; re IDrjen rebuceb to ^rom tr-fjicfy re toeigljt, an ab ab dssfc 1.9: loss ct? Ct? Stgneb for tl;e Comyat |
its taken for Conbition |
Cest.. 1.2 . were |
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>eigr;eb originally ©rams, absolute u?eigfyt of ©rams, suits, for tfye abope net solute roeigfyt of Kilos b \\% Kilos Conbttioneb IDeigljt Kilo= |
880. 778. 54. 5. |
00 30 04 94 |
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59. |
98 |
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*% on Het XDeigtjt Kilos Conbitioneb H)eigl)t Cbs |
1. |
18 |
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132. |
23 |
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arges to tfye Consignor $ ..... ' - ._ ar^es to ttj'e Consignee $ .9.. •..**?. |
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laboratories : |
W2 anb ^Z^ Broome St., Hen? york tflepbon? Ho. 738 Sprinn. |
Conditioning House in the -world attempts at present to grade, classify or raluc silk.
CONDITIONING SILK FOR CORRECT WEIGHT
By its very nature, raw silk is an article which is capable of lending itself successfully to misconception or deception. Its weight varies ac- cording to climatic conditions. In rainy weather, for instance, the same silk will automatically increase in weight as much as THREE per cent, over its weight in ordinary dry weather. Because of its power to absorb moisture its weight CAN be still further increased through artificial means, as much as thirty (30) per cent. Silk "conditioning," so called, de- termines the ABSOLUTE DRY WEIGHT of silk, and to this weight so ascertained eleven (11) per cent, is added as the universal standard to represent the usual absorption of moisture from the normal atmosphere.
When buying a specified lot of raw silk it, therefore, becomes im- portant to know the true AMOUNT OF FIBRE AND OF ATMOS- PHERIC MOISTURE, RESPECTIVELY, contained in the lot. Not to know the conditioned weight of the silk you are buying means to risk from five to ten or more cents per pound on your purchase.
1. All the operations of weighing are made by two persons, one checking the other.
2. Subsequent to taking the gross weight of the bale, which is the weight in the shirt with bagging and ropes removed, the opening and unpacking is speedily done and samples are taken from all parts of the bale. These sample skeins are divided into three equal lots, each of these three lots to represent in itself the bale under operation. One lot for con- ditioning test should not be under 300 grams nor over 500 grams, (say 10 to 20 ounces).
All tare attached to the silk, (Shirts, paper, strings, etc.) is reported separately.
The lacings (capiures) of Grant-reeled silk are not considered as tare, if kept in normal size (40 inches to one skein).
3. The three sample lots are at once weighed net on two different scales and by two different persons, within one decigram (about 1J^ grains). If the second weighing does not differ from the first by more than ll/2 decigrams, (2.3148 grains), the first weight is definite, and forms the basis for the calculation.
4. Two of the three sample lots are submitted to Dessication or Drying out in the conditioning ovens at a temperature not exceeding 140 degrees Centigrade, (284 degrees Fahrenheit), and weighed within one decigram, (1.5432 grains). The weight obtained is the dry weight or absolute weight.
5. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the two lots does not exceed l/2% (half per cent.) the average of the two losses constitutes the basis for calculating the absolute weight of the whole bale, from which the conditioned or commercial weight is obtained by adding 11% for al- lowed normal moisture.
Conditioning Houses supply only the information which can be expressed in figures.
6. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the two lots exceeds y2% (half per cent.) the third lot, kept in reserve, is also submitted to the dessication. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the three lots does not exceed 1% (one per cent), the average of the three losses forms the basis for calculating the conditioned weight of the whole bale.
7. In case the maximum difference in the percentage of loss of all three lots should exceed 1% (one per cent.) the conditioning operation is inconclusive. The silk has then to be spread openly during 48 hours in order to obtain uniformity in the state of moisture. A new operation of conditioning follows. A charge for both operations is made.
8. All calculating operations are made in duplicate by different per- sons, one checking the other.
ILLUSTRATION :
INVOICE.
Sales to be governed by Raw Silk Rules, adopted by Board of Man- agers of the Silk Association of America, May 22, 1908.
NEW YORK, Jan. i, 1909. MR. JOHN DOE,
N. Y.
Bought of RICHARD ROE & CO. New York Terms Cash less 3%.
As per Contract No. 999, dated Dec. i, 1908.
Payable in Gold at New York. Silk bought Conditioned weight, plus two per cent.
JAPAN FILATURE No. 1.
548-557—10 Bales Silk.
548 136.50
9 137.00
50 137.50
1 137.50
2 137.50
3 137.00
4 135.50
5 137.50
6 138.00
7 138.00
1372.00 gross weight. Tare 2.26 per B. 22.60
1349.40 Ibs. at $4.00 — $5,397.60.
10
The man who insists upon having his raw silk purchase tested for absolute weight intends to pay his bill; he is watching his cost.
Two illustrations, A and B, follow, showing importance of this test. Bales as follows are selected for test :
(A) 548 136.50 550 137.50 553 137.00 557 138.00
Total 549.00 gross weight. Conditioning tickets show Total 526 Ibs. Conditioned weight for
the four bales. Then, by simple proportion,
549 : 526 : : 1372 : x
Gross Wt. Cond. Wt. Gross Wt. Con. Wt. whole lot.
This reduced equals 526X1372=721672-=-549=1314.52 Cond. Wt. whole
+2% 26.29 [ten bales.
1340.81 Limit of amount
[to be paid for.
Bill calls for 1349.40 Ibs. at $4.00 $5,397.60
Limit 1340.81 Ibs.
Adjustment claim against seller.... 8.50 Ibs. at $4.00 34.36
(A) final bill $5,363.24
(B) Suppose the same four bales selected had dried out one pound each.
Then gross bill weight becomes 1368.00 Ibs.
Gross test bale weight becomes 545.00 Ibs.
Bill will call for 1345.40 Ibs.
Then by simple proportion,
545 : 526 : : 1368 : x ^conditioned weight whole lot. The conditioned weight of the 'bales is obviously the same. Reduced, 526X1368=719568-^-545=1320.30 Cond. Wt. whole ten bales. -f2%= 26.40
1346.70 limit to be paid for.
Bill now calls for 1345.40 Ibs. at $4.00 $5,381.60
But Conditioned Weight plus 2% .... 1346.70 Ibs.
Bill as above 1345.40 Ibs.
Adjustment claim in favor of seller. . . 1.30 Ibs. at $4.00 5.20
Final bill $5,386.80
(B) Final bill $5,386.80
(A) Final bill 5,363.24
Loss to buyer from selecting only four bales out of ten $ 23.56
To have conditioned the whole ten bales would cost buyer and seller each $5.00, and all uncertainty removed.
NOTE. — Always get an invoice for each bale, either gross or net. After receipt of these weights select for conditioning at random to avoid wet or dry bale. This is most important.
To get conditioned weights of every bale prevents error and is the only sure way to know exactly what you receive. (See Combination Test, page 22.)
One hundred pounds absolute weight plus 11% equals one hundred and eleven pounds — conditioned weight. Conditioned weight of the same silk plus 2% equals 113.22 pounds. Therefore while conditioned weight is obtained by adding 11% to absolute dry weight, conditioned weight plus 2% contains 13.22% of moisture, added to absolute dry weight, inasmuch as the 2% is added to the conditioned weight which has been already included.
11
UnitebStates Silk <£onbittomng Company
OFFICIAL TESTING HOUSE FOR
Cfye StIR association of Ctmerica.
Certificate for Het IPeigfyt
tto. € Duplicate
HetD york, .^11 1st. ^ 0 9
Xecetreb from mw^ Mr. John Doe.
4 Japan Raw
Ittarfc anft lumber : ©ross
549 651 554 556 Kilos
68
66,
69, 68
272,
19
68
21
93
Care Paper anb :7rt
Strings
2.
10
63
64 69 64
60
65
64,
66,
66,
04
Uet Kilos
Charges, $1.00
Signeb for tb* Co.
laboratories
262.33
Net
(Equals Sbs.
In shirt
Broome St.,
578.33
None overlook a 2^/2 per cent discount. Why should you risk a loss of 2^/2 per cent, on your cost?
WEIGHING BALES in SHIRTS or WEIGHING
BALES WITH TARE, I. E., FREE FROM
SHIRT, PAPER AND STRINGS
When five bales of silk have been carefully weighed in this manner and two bales have then been conditioned, the estimated total conditioned weight of the entire five bales will be much more exact than if the original invoice, or other weight, is used as a basis.
13
Uniteb States Silk Conditioning (Company
OFFICIAL TESTING HOUSE FOR
Cfye Silk Ctssoctation of Cunertca.
Certificate for
5150,
(Elasticity & tenacity
Ho. D 2500 Duplicate
Hew JJork,. __«Lan._lst4__j9 09 .
Certificate for ZTtessrs. ,JLQhn__Poe, New
Richard Roey Paterson. #550 "
for Cest mabe on sample of Jap. Haw 15 skeins
FIRST TWIST SECOND TWIST
11
12
12
12}*
13
13
13}*
13}*
14
14M
14}* 14}* 14}*
15 15 15 15 15 15
15
15
16 16 16
17 17
238 234 232 230 230 230 222 218 214 210
54 55 62 65 65 60 49 52 46 45
Total Addition 436 • 5 tal Weight 435.0
>n Actual Weight )
±
Average Si.y )
on Condition Weight \
First 7V/.v/. Turns per inch
Second Tvist. Turns per inch
Elasticity 224.8 Tenacity 54 • 4
Signed for the Company,
Average Number of Thousand Yards per Pound 307 . 5
Charges, $ 1.75
N. *B. ; The samples are 450 metres long^cighed in half Decigram The average si<e is calculated Ol, the Mai weight taken before the partial u-tigbtl.
(Elasticity in millimetres. tenacity in ©rams.
laboratories: 172 anb m Broom* St., n*tw
The wise man as well as the foolish man knows there is always a chance
for mistakes. The wise man is he who uses available
tests to avoid mistakes.
SIZING
To buy raw silk without having it sized at the Conditioning House means a variation of perhaps five per cent, or more in the cost of your merchandise, due to heavier or lighter goods, the requiring of more or less picks, etc.
The fineness of silk is determined by the size. The size is the number of deniers which a skein of a certain length weighs. The legal denier is a skein of silk four hundred and fifty meters long, (about 500 yards), wound in four hundred turns on a reel of one hundred and twelve and one-half centimeters in circumference, (about 44") and weighed by a unit of five centigrams, about 7^ grains, (called DENIER). The length of silk in a pound of one denier size will therefore be 4,464,528 yards. This figure divided by the number of deniers that any silk may be in size will give the yards per pound that it measures.
To establish the size of a lot of silk, ten skeins are taken from every bale and from different parts of the bale, and from each skein three test skeins, of 450 meters each, (called FLOTTILONS) are reeled off.
The conditioned size is obtained by reducing the test skeins to the absolute dry weight, and adding 11% (eleven per cent.) of allowed moisture. For such additional test, a charge of 50 cents is made.
The above is the Regular Sizing and shows the "Spring" or "Varia- tion," (in French called "Ecart") of the silk, i. e., the maximum of uneven- ness of the highest and lowest sizing skeins, but as a bale of silk contains from 30 to 65 million yards, and the Regular test only tries out approxi- mately fifteen thousand yards ; a new Compound Sizing Test has been authorized, taking about one hundred thousand yards, from twenty original skeins of the bale, to get more closely at the Average size of the whole bale. Four thousand five hundred meters, (about 5,000 yards), are reeled, from each of the twenty original skeins and reported in deniers.
The regular test is valuable for Quality as it shows the Coarse and Fine ends. The Compound test is valuable for the Average size, and as a basis to pay for Throwing; also as a test to know the yards of goods a given number of pounds conditioned weight Raw should make, (see table page 34).
15
Conditioning certificate expresses physical characteristics of silk to guide the oivner in appraising quality, grade, and -value.
TWIST TESTS
Twist tests, and Elasticity and Tenacity, are reported on the same certificate as sizing.
Twist tests are made on one-half meter length, (about 19^4 inches), and reported both in meters and inches for convenience.
Ten per cent, average variation either way from twist as ordered is allowed. (See Throwsters Rules, Article III).
In Europe a maximum variation of 20 to 25% is allowed on first time twist and about 20% on second time twist. As the machinery in the United States is of entirely different type larger variation is allowable here. In tying up the ends, a large increase of twist necessarily occurs which afterwards spreads each way along the thread. For this reason tests should never be made near knots in the thrown silk, and numerous and careful tests are necessary to show exact conditions as to twist, although a single set of tests will generally serve to give a fair idea of the work done in the Throwing.
ELASTICITY AND TENACITY TESTS
Elasticity, and Tenacity, (breaking strength), tests are reported on one meter length, (39.37 inches), Elasticity in millimeters and Tenacity in grams.
NOTE. — There are no strictly determined relations between the grad- ings of silk and the tenacity and elasticity that they exhibit. There are so many factors influencing the silk thread from the time the worm spins its cocoon until the finished raw silk thread is produced, that a closely defined scale for the elasticity and strength of thread that the different grades should possess is impracticable.
The following table gives approximately, for general guidance, the Elasticity and Tenacity to be reasonably expected for the different grades of silk.
Elasticity: 25% average stretch is a very good result.
20% " " is a good result.
18-20% " " is a fair result,
under 18% " " is a poor result.
Tenacity: (Breaking strength).
The average size in deniers multiplied by four is a very good result, by y/z, a good result, by 3, a fair result, under 3, a poor result.
The elasticity and breaking strength of thrown silk may be greater or less than that of the raw silk from which it has been produced. A variation of 10%, on the average, may cover the difference to be looked for, figured in terms of single thread.
"-very unnecessary cent of cost retards business progress.
INSPECTION TEST
This new test was recently authorized by the Executive Committee of the Conditioning Company on account of the new raw silk rules regard- ing CLAIMS FOR DIFFERENCES IN QUALITY AND/OR SIZE, which require that the buyer must accept or reject a lot within two weeks after delivery. (See page 48.)
A charge of $5.00 is made on from one to five bales. The authorized agent of the Conditioning Company removes twenty sample skeins from the bales, drawn as evenly as possible from different parts of each bale, at the Storage House.
These twenty skeins are then submitted to the compound sizing test so that the average size will be disclosed. About one thousand yards is then wound off of each of the twenty original skeins and made into standard two-thread Tram or Organzine, without soaking. The ten small skeins of about one thousand yards each of the two-thread thrown silk are then boiled-off by the exact method for that test, namely: — boiling twice for one-half hour each in a separate solution of soap, the quantity of soap in each solution to be 25% of the weight of the silk. These small samples are then returned to the party in interest with the compound sizing ticket for his inspection, and give a very fair average impression as to the quality of the silk.
It is believed that this test will be of particular advantage to both buyer and seller as it should avoid a great deal of trouble where silks are needed for special uses. When made in conjunction with the combina- tion test, the sizing need not be duplicated, and the price of this test is, therefore, reduced to $2.50.
The value of this test will be better appreciated by those who have read the pamphlet entitled "Ravelings (or lousiness) of Dyed Silks," pub- lished by the Silk Association of America, which is a translation from the report of the Laboratory for Silk Testing of the Silk Conditioning House of Milan, 1905. From this pamphlet we quote as follows :
"Practice has demonstrated that the presence of 100 to 150 "nibs" (fiocchetti) per each thousand metres in thread used for material ordinarily manufactured, does not damage the appearance of the fabric and it is only when the nibs amount to several hundred that the effect becomes disastrous. As the success of many facbrics is de- pendent on the judicious selection of the raw silk used, and the exterior appearance of the raw silk does not give a reliable indication about its susceptibility to take on dyes uniformly and to produce the required results, the manufacturer can only resort to the direct examination of a small sample, and submitting it to tests calculated to ascertain the quality of the silk which he proposes to use.
"Especially when the purchase is of silk of unknown origin or when new articles are to be manufactured, it would be always advisable to have a trial of ungumming in two successive 3% soap baths and for the duration of half an hour, as is practiced in conditioning establishments for official trials of boiling off.
"It is clear that the silk which can stand the usual operation of boiling off will resist even better when the dyer shall have applied the improvements which we shall mention further on. In the dye-shop the boiling off is usually performed at a tempera- ture below 100 degrees C. and with two soap baths, the first of which is prepared with 30 to 33% of soap to the weight of the silk, and the second with one-half. For silks that are to be dyed in dark colors the second bath is not infrequently used for the ungumming of a subsequent parcel."
Mistakes are among the things that are not governed by the law of supply and demand.
Unitcb States Silk <£on6itioning Company
OFFICIAL TESTING HOUSE FOR
Ctje Silk association of Clmerica.
Certificate for Boiling
Ho. B 2000
Hem
Duplicate • ........ 1st,
consigneb for Boiling Off
Sample J^p Saw IPeigbt ©rams
from 10 skeins Net 113. ,3
results in an absolute meigfyt Before boil-off, ©rams Ctfter boil=off, ©rams
Coss in botl'Off, ©rams
102. 83.
19.
Ctjat is to say
18.87%
Charges
$1.00
Signeb for
laboratories: \12 anb 4 74 Broome St., Hen> york
Ho. 73« Spring.
When you find that your conditioning tests continue to prove satisfactory,
you should remember that you are thereby safe-guarding
yourself against mistakes.
BOIL- OFF
The boil-off test on raw and thrown silk shows the loss of gum, soap, oil, or other soluble substance, which the silk sustains by boiling twice, for one-half hour each time in separate solutions of soap. The quantity of soap in each solution to be 25% (twenty-five per cent.) of the absolute weight of the silk and the quantity of water to be standard pro- portion. The sample to be tested is reduced to the absolute weight be- fore and after the boiling-off. From the difference between these two weights the percentage of loss is computed.
To buy, and have thrown, raw silk without having the boil-off test of the Raw and Thrown applied by the Conditioning House may mean a loss of ten cents per pound without your being aware of it, either in the Raw, the Throwing, or the Dyeing of the silk.
The boil-off of the raw and thrown silk should be tested simultaneously in the same process, according to Throwsters' Rules, Article IX, on de- termination of loss. See page 52.
The boil-off test is unlike the one made by the dyer, who may strip more or less gum than the Conditioning House, as he finds wise and necessary, but it represents the standard test and is always made with the same proportion of soap and water and boiled for exactly the same length of time, so that all tests will be comparative and standard.
The real value of all silk is and must be based on the Conditioned Weight Boiled-Off Thrown Silk. This is what you get, though few will compare costs to ascertain this only Real Value.
The value of the raw silk, the waste made in throwing, the proper weighting to be used in the dyeing, and the very "goodness of the goods" are controlled by knowing the conditioned weight of the boiled-off thrown silk. Variable starting points on the other hand, (like Thrown Actual Ticket Weight for Dyeing) cause loss and trouble continually.
The value of the Raw and Thrown Silk boil-offs is illustrated on page 23, showing the clearance of the lot when returned from the Throwster, and on page 24, showing the discrepancies in Dyeing.
Unttefc States Silk Conditioning Company
OFFICIAL TESTING HOUSE FOR
Silk association of america. 'Certificate^f^ngt^
Ho. £ 2000 Duplicate
Jan. ls.t.t \9 09 .
Certificate for IHessrs John Dpe, New York.,
Richard Roe., Patersoiu
for test mabe on J.apan Tram..
inatbs, tic.
i s.6.7.9 ^.:LU 9.7.54 ab5:;
Cotal (
2^ J.. 9.815.. Cotalj
\st
19,707 I
9854 )jh
Signcb for the Co.
Charges $1.00
Caboratoiies: 472 anb ^7^ ^roome St., lltw
ttelevhonf Ho. 7.3H Spring.
Universal use of conditioning tests will eliminate unfair and unintelligent
competition from all branches of the business and is in the
line of true costing of silk merchandise.
MEASURING LENGTHS OF SKEINS
We present on page 40 a table which will be found very useful in this connection. This table deals with silks running from 9/11 deniers to 16/18 deniers and presents the number of yards per pound for the two allowable extremes of each size in raw silk thrown without soaking (in which a take up of 3% for twist should be figured on) and in raw silk thrown with soaking, the additions to the weight from soap and oil of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7%, in addition to the 3% of take up in twist in each case.
If the compound sizing test shows for instance that a lot of raw silk runs 300,000 yards to the pound and if this is thrown into two-thread organzine with approximately 3% allowance, as in Europe, for the shorten- ing due to twist, and if the difference between the boil-off raw and the boil-off thrown is shown to be 4% the number of yards given in the Table marked No. 7 will show, (always in terms of single thread of course) what the thrown silk should measure per pound.
These measuring tests are also of special value to the makers of spool or twist silks, and their customers.
Those manufacturers who use much cotton yarn, particularly in fine counts, whether domestic or imported, will find it of much importance to have the Conditioning House test the weights and yards per pound of the yarns delivered to them.
In fine numbers a difference in the count means a considerable differ- ence in the price, and any one wishing to know that he is getting what he is paying for can only be sure of it by having the size of his yarns, on a conditioned basis, tested by the Conditioning House.
To see that the skeins delivered are of standard length measuring tests should also be made.
21
Your most unsatisfactory competitor is he who only believes his "cost is loiv," but who doesn't know.
COMBINATION TEST
This is by far the most valuable and eventually the cheapest method of testing all silk, as it gives the Conditioned Weight Raw. the Con- ditioned Weight Thrown, the Boil-off Raw and the Boil-off Thrown, also the sizing from each bale; and on five or more bales the option is given on each five to have three Regular sizings and one Compound sizing made under this test. With this information the purchased weight, re- turns from the Throwster, Boil-off for your instructions to dyers, size for paying Throwster and controlling the manufacture of the goods, are all obtained in the most definite possible manner at the low cost of $17.50 for five bales, probably worth $2,500.00. We believe this should be par- ticularly attractive to all American manufacturers. Part of the tests for conditioned weight are already by agreement in the new rules payable by the seller, so that in the end the cost to the manufacturer is further reduced.
When ordered to include the Inspection Test a total charge of $20.00 for five bales will be made, as the sizing test will not need to be duplicated.
In making the Combination Test all the Raw bales are sent to the Conditioning House, where the bales are tested for Conditioned Weight, and samples are removed for sizing, (and Inspection test when desired). Samples of Raw are reserved for Boiling-off, marked with the lot number and held in reserve until the throwing is completed. The raw is at once shipped away for Throwing. As soon as one bale, (6 to 8 bundles), is thrown, it is returned to the Conditioning Works and tested for Con- ditioned Weight Thrown ; small samples are removed for boiling off, and the bale forwarded to the Dyer or Owner to avoid delay. Each bale, as thrown, is treated in like manner, and when all are finished, the samples of Raw and Thrown are Boiled off together in the same baths, as this test is uncertain if done at different times. (See Art. IX, Trowsters' Rules, page 52.)
When the Conditioned Weight and Boil-off of all the raw silk, and the Conditioned Weight and Boil-off Thrown of all the thrown silk is thus determined, the clearance like that following is made and the loss determined.
To test part of the Raw or Thrown is inconclusive as silk varies rapidly in weight, and the parcels tested may be too dry or too wet to properly represent the whole lot.
The ten bale purchase on page 10 is supposed to be sent to two throwsters, A and B.
The dealer or manufacturer who is credited with having loyally accepted
conditioning tests as his standards in his transactions will not be idle;
he will be busy, when others, who have not adopted them, are idle.
Conditioned Weight is 1314.52 Pounds.
Both throwsters report Opening Weight 1350.00
Throwster A. Returns 1363.00 Pounds.
Opening weight 1350.00
Boil-off Raw 20% < „
n -i ce TI ^^ \- Gain 13.00
Boil-off Thrown 26% f
Throwster B. Reports Opening Weight.... 1350.00 Pounds. Returns 1345.00
Boil-off Raw 20% | Boil-off Thrown 24% f L<
Throwster A. 's Clearance. Conditioned Weight Raw 1314.52 Pounds.
Conditioned Weight Thrown. 1360.00 "
Conditioned Weight Raw 1314.52
Boil-off Raw 20% 262.91
Boil-off Raw Silk... 1051.61 1051.61
Conditioned Weight Thrown 1360.00
Boil-off Thrown, 26% 353.60
Boil-off Thrown... 1006.40 1006.40
Loss 45.21
45.21—1051.61=4 3/10 per cent, of loss made.
Throwster B.'s Clearance. Conditioned Weight Raw.. 1314.52 Boil-off Raw 20% 262.91
Boil-off Raw Silk 1051.61 1051.61
Conditioned Weight Thrown 1353.00
Boil-off Thrown 24% 324.72
1028.28 1028.28
Loss 23.33
23.33-M051. 61=2 2/10 per cent, of loss made.
N. B. — Note carefully that in these instances it will be seen how the man who has given back 18 pounds more than the other has really made nearly twice as much loss.
Persistent unreliable estimates of cost spell bankruptcy.
VALUE OF TESTS IN DYEING
Few manufacturers realize what an important difference may result in the cost of their dyeing, and in the percentage of their weighting, from a lack of knowledge of the Boil-off of their Thrown Silk.
We invite careful attention to the following :
BOIL-OFF IN DYEING. Showing that variations may result in practice if Conditioned Weight, and Boil off Thrown certificates are not used as the basis of computation.
The following ilustrations are all based on 100 Ibs. of Conditioned Weight Thrown Silk. The Boil-off in each of these cases being 20%, leaves 80 pounds of Conditioned Weight Boiled-off Thrown Silk.
The 100 pounds Conditioned Weight is supposed to weigh 103 and 105 pounds, scale or ticket weight, for the purpose of this illustration. The cost of Dyeing and the returns are shown for
I. Pure dye at 30c. per pound. II. 16 oz. dye at 50c. per pound.
III. 24 oz. dye at 80c. per pound.
IV. 32 oz. dye at $1.00 per pound. V. 48 oz. dye at $1.50 per pound.
I. Pure Dye at 30c. per pound.
105 Ibs. at 30c $31.50
103 " " " 30.90
100 " " " (Conditioned Weight) 30.00
Conditioned Weight saves $1.50.
80 Ibs. of Boiled-off Silk Dyed. Saving 5%.
II. 16 oz. Dye at 50 c. per Ib.
Silk Weighting Return Bill
A. 105 Ibs. at 50c 80 + 25 = 105 $52.50
B. 103 " " 80 -f 23 = 103 51.50
C. 100 " " 80 -(- 20 = 100 50.00
5 Ibs. weight gained on A. for $2.50— 50c. per Ib. no saving.
3 Ibs. weight gained on B. for $1.50— 50c. per Ib. no saving.
III. 24 oz. Dye at 80c. per pound.
Silk Weighting Return Bill
A. 105 Ibs. at 80c 80 + 77V2 = 157^ $84.00
B- 103 " " 80 + 74^ = 154^ 82.40
C. 100 " " 80 + 70 = 150 80.00
1l/2 Ibs. gain on A. for $4.00 saves $2.00—2^% on dyeing.
4^ Ibs. gain on B. for $2.40 saves $1.20— 1J4 % on dyeing.
% Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, A — 96.8%
% Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, B — 93.1%
% Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, C — 87.5%
The most dangerous competitors are those who take things for granted.
|
IV. 32 oz. Dye at $1.00 per pound. |
|||||
|
Silk |
Weighting Return |
Bill |
|||
|
A. |
105 Ibs. at $1.00. . . . |
.. 80 |
+ 130 = |
210 |
$105.00 |
|
B. |
103 " " " . . . . |
.. 80 |
+ 126 = |
206 |
103.00 |
|
C. |
100 " " " .... |
.. 80 |
+ 120 = |
200 |
100.00 |
10 Ibs. gain on A. for $5.00 saves $5.00 — 5% on dyeing. 6 Ibs. gain on B. for $3.00 saves $3.00 — 3% on dyeing.
% Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, A— 162l/2%. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, B— 157J4% % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, C— 150%
V. 48 oz. Dye at $1.50 per pound.
A. 105 Ibs. at $1.50.
B. 103 " " " .
C. 100 " " " .
Silk
80
80
Weighting + 235 = + 229 =
_|_ 220 :=
Return 315 309 300
Bill
$157.50 154.50 150.00
15 Ibs. gain on A. for $7.50 saves $15.00 — 10% on dyeing. 9 Ibs. gain on B. for $4.50 saves $ 9.00— 6% on dyeing.
% Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, A — 293^4%. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, B— 286*4%. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, C. — 275%.
Therefore :
So long as the price of dyeing is based on ticket bundle or actual weight, the manufacturer will, as illustrated, find it profitable to arrange
that
I. All silk of 16 oz. dye and under should be soaked lightly in throw- ing and kept very dry.
II. All silk for 16 oz. dye and over should be soaked heavily in throwing and kept moist.
To know the real return, however, the Conditioned Weight Boiled- off Thrown Silk must be used as the basis of figuring or your silk may be over-weighted 10% or more without your being aware of it.
All this information for $3.50 per bale, worth $500 to $1,000.
25
All tests made by numbers — mvncr of silk unknown to employees.
RULES AND REGULATIONS HANDLING SILK
FOR
(Subject to addition or alteration as required, due notice of which will be given.)
CONDITIONING
1. Absolute secrecy of all tests is the first rule of this establishment.
2. All the operations of weighing are made by two persons, one checking the other.
3. Subsequent to taking the gross weight of the bale, the opening and unpacking is speedily done and samples are taken from all parts of the bale. 1 hese sample skeins are divided into three equal lots, each of these three lots to represent in itself the bale under operation. One lot for conditioning test should not be under 300 grams nor over 500 grams.
Tare attached to the silk (paper and strings) is reported separately. The lacing (capiures) of Grant-reeled silk are not considered as tare, if kept in normal size (40 inches to one skein).
4. The three sample lots are at once weighed net on two different scales and by two different persons, within one decigram. If the second weighing does not differ from the first by more than \l/2 decigram, the first weight is definite, and form the basis for the calculation.
5. Two of the three sample lots are submitted to Desiccation or Dry- ing out in the conditioning ovens at a temperature not exceeding 140 degrees Centigrade and weighed within one decigram. The weight ob- tained is the dry-weight or absolute weight.
6. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the two lots does not exceed l/2% (half per cent.), the average of the two losses constitutes the basis for calculating the absolute weight of the whole bale, from which the conditioned or commercial weight is obtained by adding 11% for allowed normal moisture.
7. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the two lots ex- ceeds l/2% (half per cent.), the third lot, kept in reserve, is also sub- mitted to the Desiccation. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the three lots does not exceed 1% (one per cent.), the average of the three losses forms the basis for calculating the conditioned weight of the whole bale.
8. In case the maximum difference in the percentage of loss of all three lots should exceed 1% (one per cent.), the conditioning operation is inconclusive. The silk has then to be spread openly during 48 hours in order to obtain uniformity in the state of moisture. A new operation of conditioning follows. A charge for both operations is made.
9. All calculating operations are made in duplicate by different per- sons, one checking the other.
An ounce of Prevention is worth a pound of Cure.
10. Other articles than silk may also be submitted to the conditioning operation. The allowance for natural moisture is as follows :
Carded wool and wool waste 18^4%
Wool yarn 17 %
Cotton, raw and yarned 8l/>%
Linen, raw and yarned 12 %
Jute, raw and yarned 13^4%
Tow, raw and yarned 12j/2%
Mixed yarn of wool and cotton 10 %
Mixed yarn of wool and silk .' . 16 %
Spun or schappe, raw and carded silk 11 %
SIZING TESTS
The fineness of silk is determined by the size. The size is the num- ber of deniers which a skein of a certain length weighs. The legal denier is a skein of silk four hundred and fifty meters long, wound in four hun- dred turns on a reel of one hundred and twelve and one-half centimeters in circumference and weighed by a unit of five centigrams (called DENIER).
To establish the size of a lot of silk, ten skeins are taken from every bale and from different parts of the bale, and from each skein three test skeins (called FLOTTILONS) are reeled off.
The conditioned size is obtained by reducing the test skeins to the absolute weight and adding 11% of allowed moisture. For such ad- ditional test, a charge of 50c. is made.
TWIST TESTS
Samples of about 3 to 4 yards are taken from each skein and reeled on a metallic holder. A short boiling operation serves to free the silk from the gum. The tests are made on a fixed length (half meter or about 20 inches) and the number of turns reported on one meter, and also per inch by dividing turns per meter by 40 — (the exact equivalent being 39, 37/100 inches).
ELASTICITY AND TENACITY
The elasticity is expressed in Millimeters on one meter and tenacity in Grams on one meter.
BOIL-OFF
The boil-off test shows the loss of gum which silk, (raw or thrown) sustains by boiling twice for one-half hour in a separate solution of soap. The quantity of soap in each solution to be 25% of the absolute weight of the silk. The sample to be tested is reduced to the absolute weight be- fore and after the boiling-off. The difference between the two weights gives the percentage of loss.
Eternal vigilance is the source of gain.
PRICE LIST
Subject to alteration, as required, due notice of which will be given. Transportation Charges Payable by Owner.
Per bale. Per test.
Conditioning all raws, or Elasticity and tenacity $0.75
thrown silk $1-00 Twist 75
Per test. Inspection test, 5 bales or less. 5.00
Boiling off l-°° Net weighing (with detailed
Measuring: tare) 75
10 skeins, 20,000 yds. long. . . 1.00 Weighing raw in shirts 2o
15 skeins, 15,000 yds. long. . . 1.00 Sizing 1.00
20 skeins, 10,000 yds. long, or Compound sizing. 2.00
less 1.00 Conditioning test skeins 50
Additional copies of certificates Conditioning spun silk (limited
(in double) each 25 to 300 Ibs. per bale) 1.00
COMBINATION TESTS.
On not less than five bales and not more than twenty bales in any one lot. Thrown bales not to exceed the number of raw bales.
For five bales $17.50
For each additional bale 3.50
For five bales, with inspection test 20.00
Conditioning, five bales raw... $5.00 Sampling thrown silk as re- Sizing, five bales raw 5.00 turned, for boil-off $0.50
Conditioning, five bales thrown, Boiling off raw 1-00
as returned from throwster Boiling off thrown 1.00
and forwarded to dyer 5.00
If treated separately the individual charge for each of the above tests would be $5.00, making $25.00 in all, showing a saving of $7.50 when the combination test is ordered.
Combination test must have lot number for identification of thrown silk when returned.
MEMO. THE COMBINATION TEST GIVES
a. The conditioned weight raw as a check in paying for the silk.
b. Sizing test on each bale showing the variation in the thread — 30 small skeins from each bale.
c. The conditioned weight of the thrown silk returned by the throwster.
d. A boil off of the raw silk (sizing skeins) giving the average gum in the entire lot — 30 small skeins from each bale.
c. A boil off of the thrown giving the average gum and soap in all the thrown silk as returned.
[RULES REGARDING DELIVERY OF CERTIFICATES
All certificates are produced in triplicate. The original is permanently filed at the laboratory.
The test tickets of our Company are only delivered to the firm or per- son who has ordered the test, and in whose name the ticket is issued.
To avoid confusion, the tests ordered have to be paid for by the firm ordering the same.
If the charges are to be divided between two firms, both firms are en- titled to one ticket. For Duplicate Copies (in double) 25 cents is charged.
28
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
METRIC EQUIVALENTS
LINEAR MEASURE.
1 centimeter=:0.3937 in. 1 inch=2.54 centimeters.
1 decimeter=3.937 in.=0.328 ft. 1 foot=3.048 decimeters.
1 meter=39.37 in.=1.0936 yds. 1 yard=0.9144 meters.
1 Xlecameter=1.9884 rods. 1 rod=0.5029 decameters.
1 kilometer=0.62137 miles. 1 mile=1.6093 kilometers. (The meter, as used in Europe, is 39.370432 inches.)
SQUARE MEASURE.
1 sq. centimeter=0.1550 sq. inches. 1 sq. inch=6.452 sq. centimeters.
1 sq. decimeter=0.1076 sq. feet. 1 sq. foot=9.2903 sq. decimeters.
1 sq. meter=1.196 sq. yards. 1 sq. yard=0.8361 sq. meters.
1 are=3.954 sq. rods. 1 sq. rod=0.2529 ares.
1 hectare— 2.47 acres. 1 acre=0.4047 hectares.
1 sq. kilometer:=0.386 sq. miles. 1 sq. mile=2.59 sq. kilometers.
WEIGHTS. 1 decigram = 0.003527 oz. = 1.5432 1 metric ton=1.1023 English short
grains. tons.
1 gram=0.03527 oz. Avoir., or about 1 ounce Avoir.=28.35 grams.
15^2 Troy grains. 1 pound Avoir.=0.4536 kilograms.
1 kilogram=2.2046 Ibs. Avoir. 1 English short ton=0.9072 metric
tons.
APPROXIMATE METRIC EQUIVALENTS.
1 decimeter=4 inches. 1 Hter=1.06 qt. liquid, 0.9 qt. dry.
1 meter=l.l yards. 1 hectoliter=2 */« bushels.
1 kilometer=5"| of a mile. 1 kilogram=2 1/s Ibs.
1 hectare=2^ acres. 1 metric ton=2,200 Ibs.
1 stere, or cu. meter=54 of a cord.
TROY WEIGHT.
24 grains^l pennyweight. 12 ounces=l pound^=5,760 grains. 20 pennyweights=l ounce.
Used for weighing gold, silver, etc.
APOTHECARIES' WEIGHT.
20 grains=l scruple. 8 drams=l ounce.
3 scruples=l dram. 12 ounces=l pound=5,760 grains.
The ounce and pound in this are the same as in troy weight.
AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT.
27 i:/32 grains=l dram. 4 quarters=l hundred weight.
16 drams=l ounce. 2,000 lbs.=:l short ton.
16 ounces=l pound=7,000 grains. 2,240 lbs.=l long ton.
25 pounds=l quarter.
To avoid error, use abbreviations grs. for grains, gms. for grams. Pounds and decimals of pounds are preferable to pounds and ounces for
all calculations. The values given above have been checked by the U. S. Bureau of Standards.
29
|
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY |
||
|
EQUIVALENTS OF METRIC WEIGHTS IN POUNDS AND DECIMALS |
||
|
Kgs. Lbs. |
Kgs. Lbs. Kgs. Lbs. |
|
|
1 2.2046 |
36 79.3656 71 156.5266 |
|
|
2 4.4092 |
37 81.5702 72 158.7312 |
|
|
3 6.6138 |
38 83.7748 73 160.9358 |
|
|
4 8.8184 |
39 85.9794 74 163.1404 |
|
|
5 11.0230 |
40 88.1840 |
75 165.3450 |
|
6 13.2276 |
41 90.38S6 |
76 167.5496 |
|
7 15.4322 |
42 92.5932 |
77 169.7542 |
|
8 17.6368 |
43 94.7978 |
78 171.9588 |
|
9 19.8414 |
44 97.0024 |
79 174.1634 |
|
10 22.0460 |
45 99.2070 |
80 176,3680 |
|
11 24.2506 |
46 101.4116 |
81 178.5725 |
|
12 26.4552 |
47 103.6162 |
82 180.7773 |
|
13 28.6598 |
48 105.8208 |
83 182.9818 |
|
14 30.8644 |
49 108.0254 |
84 185.1864 |
|
15 33.0690 |
50 110.2300 |
85 187.3910 |
|
16 35.2736 |
51 112.4346 |
86 189.5956 |
|
17 37.4782 |
52 114.6392 |
87 191.8002 |
|
18 39.6828 |
53 116.8438 |
88 194.0048 |
|
19 41.8874 |
54 119.0484 |
89 196.2094 |
|
20 44.0920 |
55 121.2530 |
90 198.4140 |
|
21 46.2966 |
56 123.4576 |
91 200.6186 |
|
22 48.5012 |
57 125.6622 |
92 202.8232 |
|
23 50.7058 |
58 127.8688 |
93 205.0278 |
|
24 52.9104 |
59 130.0714 |
94 207.2324 |
|
25 55.1150 |
60 132.2760 |
95 209.4370 |
|
26 57.3196 |
61 134.4806 |
96 211.6416 |
|
27 59.5242 |
62 136.6852 |
97 213.8462 |
|
28 61.7288 |
63 138.8898 |
98 216.0508 |
|
29 63.9334 |
64 141.0944 |
99 218.2554 |
|
30 66.1380 |
65 143.2990 |
100 220.4600 |
|
31 68.3426 |
66 145.5036 |
150 330.6900 |
|
32 70.5472 |
67 147.7082 |
200 440.9200 |
|
33 72.7518 |
68 149.9128 |
300 661.3800 |
|
34 74.9564 |
69 152.1174 |
400 881.8400 |
|
35 77.1610 |
70 154.3220 |
500 1102.3000 |
30
|
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY |
||
|
EQUIVALENTS OF POUND WEIGHTS IN KILOS AND DECIMALS |
||
|
Lbs. Kgs. |
Lbs. Kgs. |
Lbs. Kgs. |
|
1 0.4536 |
36 16.3296 |
71 32.2056 |
|
2 0.9072 |
37 16.7832 |
72 32.6592 |
|
3 1.3608 |
38 17.2368 |
73 33.1128 |
|
4 1.8144 |
39 17.6904 |
74 33.5664 |
|
5 2.2680 |
40 18.1440 |
75 34.0200 |
|
6 2.7216 |
41 18.5976 |
76 34.4736 |
|
7 3.1752 |
42 19.0512 |
77 34.9272 |
|
8 3.6288 |
43 19.5048 |
78 35.3808 |
|
9 4.0824 |
44 19.9584 |
79 35.8344 |
|
10 4.5360 |
45 20.4120 |
80 36.2880 |
|
11 4.9896 |
46 20.8656 |
81 36.7416 |
|
12 5.4432 |
47 21.3192 |
82 37.1952 |
|
13 5.8968 |
48 21.7728 |
83 37.6488 |
|
14 6.3504 |
49 22.2264 |
84 38.1024 |
|
15 6.8040 |
50 22.6800 |
85 38.5560 |
|
16 7.2576 |
51 23.1336 |
86 39.0096 |
|
17 7.7112 |
52 23.5872 |
87 39.4632 |
|
18 8.1648 |
53 24.0408 |
88 39.9168 |
|
19 8.6184 |
54 24.4944 |
89 40.3704 |
|
20 9.0720 |
55 24.9480 |
90 40.8240 |
|
21 9.5256 |
56 25.4016 |
91 41.2776 |
|
22 9.9792 |
57 25.8552 |
92 41.7312 |
|
23 10.4328 |
58 26.3088 |
93 42.1848 |
|
24 10.8864 |
59 26.7624 |
94 42.6384 |
|
25 11.3400 |
60 27.2160 |
95 43.0920 |
|
26 11.7936 |
61 27.6696 |
96 43.5456 |
|
27 12.2472 |
62 28.1232 |
97 43.9992 |
|
28 12.7008 |
63 28.5768 |
98 44.4528 |
|
29 13.1544 |
64 29.0304 |
99 44.9064 |
|
30 13.6080 |
65 29.4840 |
100 45.3600 |
|
31 14.0616 |
66 29.9376 |
150 68.0400 |
|
32 14.5152 |
67 30.3912 |
200 90.7200 |
|
33 14.9688 |
68 30.8448 |
300 136.0800 |
|
34 15.4224 |
69 31.2984 |
400 181.4400 |
|
35 15.8760 |
70 31.7520 |
500 226.8000 |
:u
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
EQUIVALENTS OF OUNCES
IN DECIMALS OF THE POUND
|
Ozs. |
Decimals. |
Ozs. |
Decimals. |
|
54 |
Lbs. 0.0156 |
8^4 |
Lbs. 0.5156 |
|
% |
0.0312 |
8/2 |
0.5312 |
|
H |
0.0468 |
8^ |
0.5468 |
|
i |
0.0625 |
9 |
0.5625 |
|
i# |
0.0781 |
V/4 |
0.5781 |
|
V6 |
0.0937 |
9/2 |
0.5937 |
|
1*4 |
0.1093 |
9& |
0.6093 |
|
2 |
0.1250 |
10 |
0.6250 |
|
2J4 |
0.1406 |
ioj4 |
0.6406 |
|
2J^ |
0.1562 |
10^2 |
0.6562 |
|
2M |
0.1728 |
10^4 |
0.6718 |
|
3 |
0.1875 |
11 |
0.6875 |
|
3J4 |
0.2031 |
iij4 |
0.7031 |
|
3^ |
0.2187 |
11/2 |
0.7187 |
|
324 |
0.2343 |
ii}4 |
0.7343 |
|
4 |
0.2500 |
12 |
0.7500 |
|
4^4 |
0.2656 |
13J4 |
0.7656 |
|
4/2 |
0.2812 |
12/ |
0.7812 |
|
4^ |
0.2968 |
12^4 |
0.7968 |
|
5 |
0.3125 |
13 |
0.8125 |
|
5^ |
0.3281 |
13^4 |
0.8281 |
|
5/2 |
0.3437 |
13^ |
0.8437 |
|
5J4 |
0.3593 |
13J4 |
0.8593 |
|
6 |
0.3750 |
14 |
0.8750 |
|
6^4 |
0.3906 |
14J4 |
0.8906 |
|
6^ |
0.4062 |
14^ |
0.9062 |
|
654 |
0.4218 |
14^4 |
0.9218 |
|
7 |
0.4375 |
15 |
0.9375 |
|
7J4 |
0.4531 |
15>4 |
0.9531 |
|
7/2 |
0.4687 |
151^ |
0.9687 |
|
7*4 |
0.4843 |
15J4 |
0.9843 |
|
8 |
0.5000 |
16 |
1.0000 |
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY
INTERNATIONAL YARN TABLES
(Quoted from the published tables of Mr. Matthew Blair, of Glasgow, Scotland.)
Several conferences have been held on this subject, and at that of Paris in 1900 it was agreed that the best system was that of a lixed weight, and a variable count length. The unit was fixed at 1 meter, equal to 1 gramme. Number 1 would mean that a length of 1 metre would weigh I gramme; number 100 would be 100 meters per gramme, etc.
Exception was allowed for Raw and Thrown silks, to enable the count to show the degree of variation and irregularity incident to this class of material. The system agreed upon in that case was, on the con- trary, that of a fixed length and a variable count weight. The length of skein adopted was 450 meters, and the unit of weight the ^> decigram; thus the count of a silk is expressed by the number of y2 decigrams which a length of 450 meters weighs. The count in International Metric System is also indicated on the bulletin.
|
UNITED STAGES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY |
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|
EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DENIERS TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND -RAW AND |
||||
|
THROWN |
||||
|
Decimal Count |
||||
|
Interna- tional Count Meters ! per Gramme |
Deniers Legal Count for Raw and Thrown Silk y2 Decigrammes per 450 Metres |
Manchester Thrown Silk Count Drams per 1,000 Yards |
Decimal Count Yards per Pound Saw |
Yards per pound Thrown, Deduct- ng 3% for Short- ning from Twist, nd 3% for Soak- ing, 6% in all |
|
1 |
9,000 515.93 |
496 |
466 |
|
|
2 |
4,500 257.96 |
992 |
933 |
|
|
3 |
3,000 171.97 |
1,488 |
1,399 |
|
|
4 |
2,250 |
128.98 |
1,984 |
1,865 |
|
5 |
1,800 103.20 |
2,481 |
2,332 |
|
|
6 |
1,500 85.98 |
2,977 |
2,798 |
|
|
7 |
1,28571 73.70 |
3,473 |
3,264 |
|
|
8 |
1,125 64.49 |
3,969 |
3,751 |
|
|
9 |
1,000 57.33 |
4,465 |
4,197 |
|
|
10 |
900 |
51.59 |
4,962 |
4,664 |
|
11 |
81818 |
46.90 |
5,458 |
5,131 |
|
12 |
750 |
42.99 |
5,954 |
5,597 |
|
13 |
69231 |
39.68 |
6,450 |
6,063 |
|
14 |
642s5 |
36.85 |
6,946 |
6,529 |
|
15 |
600 |
34.39 |
7,443 |
6,996 |
|
16 |
56260 |
32.25 |
7,939 |
7,463 |
|
17 |
529" |
30.35 |
8,435 |
7,929 |
|
18 |
500 |
28.66 |
8,931 |
8,395 |
|
19 |
47 388 |
27.15 |
9,426 |
8,860 |
|
20 |
450 |
25.79 |
9,924 |
8,831 |
|
21 |
42857 |
24.56 |
10,420 |
9,795 |
|
22 |
409°" |
23.45 |
10,916 |
10,261 |
|
23 |
39130 |
22.43 |
11,412 |
10,727 |
|
24 |
375 |
21.49 |
11,908 |
11,193 |
|
25 |
360 |
20.63 |
12,405 |
11,661 |
|
26 |
34650 |
19.84 |
12,901 |
12,127 |
|
27 |
33S33 |
19.11 |
13,397 |
12,593 |
|
28 |
32142 |
18.42 |
13,893 |
13,060 |
|
29 |
31034 |
17.79 |
14,389 |
13,526 |
|
30 |
300 |
17.19 |
14,886 |
13,995 |
|
31 |
29032 |
16.64 |
15,382 |
14,459 |
|
32 |
28128 |
16.12 |
15,878 |
14,925 |
|
33 |
27272 |
15.63 |
16,374 |
15,392 |
|
34 |
26470 |
15.17 |
•16,870 |
15,858 |
|
35 |
25714 |
14.74 |
17,364 |
16,322 |
|
36 |
250 |
14.33 |
17,863 |
16,791 |
|
37 |
24324 |
13.94 |
18,350 |
17,249 |
|
38 |
236s4 |
13.57 |
18,859 |
17,728 |
|
39 |
23076 |
13.23 |
19,351 |
18,190 |
|
40 |
225 |
12.89 |
19,848 |
18,657 |
|
41 |
21951 |
12.58 |
20,344 |
19,123 |
|
42 |
21428 |
12.28 |
20,840 |
19,590 |
|
43 |
2093" 11.99 |
21,336 20,056 |
||
|
44 |
20404 11.72 |
21,832 20,552 |
||
|
45 |
200 11.46 |
22,329 20,989 |
||
|
46 |
19565 11.21 |
22,825 |
21,456 |
|
|
47 |
191" 10.97 |
23,321 |
21,922 |
|
|
48 |
18760 10.74 |
23,817 |
22,388 |
|
|
49 |
183°° 10.53 |
24,313 |
22,854 |
|
|
50 |
180 10.32 |
24.809 23,320 |
|
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY |
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|
EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DENIERS |
||||
|
TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND - RAW AND |
||||
|
THROWN — Continued |
||||
|
Decimal Count |
||||
|
Interna- tional Count Meters pei- |
Deniers Legal Count for Raw and Thrown Silk l/2 Decigrammes |
Manchester Thrown Silk Count Drams per 1,000 Yards |
Decimal Count Yards per Pound Raw |
Yards per Pound Thrown, Deduct- ing 3% for Short- ening from Twist, and 3% for Soak- |
|
Gramme |
per 450 Meters |
ing, 6% in all |
||
|
51 |
17647 |
10.11 |
25,305 |
23,787 |
|
52 |
17307 |
9.92 |
25,801 24,253 |
|
|
53 |
16981 |
9.73 |
26,298 24,720 |
|
|
54 |
16660 |
9.55 |
26,794 25,185 |
|
|
55 |
16363 |
9.38 |
27,290 25,653 |
|
|
56 |
1607t |
9.21 |
27,786 |
26,120 |
|
57 |
1578B |
9.05 |
28,282 |
26,585 |
|
58 |
15517 |
8.89 |
28,778 27,051 |
|
|
59 |
15254 |
8.74 |
29,274 27,518 |
|
|
60 |
150 |
8.59 |
29,771 |
27,985 |
|
61 |
14764 |
8.45 |
30,269 |
28,453 |
|
62 |
14518 |
8.32 |
30,763 |
28,917 |
|
63 |
14284 |
8.18 |
31,259 |
29,384 |
|
64 |
14082 |
8.06 |
31,755 |
29,850 |
|
65 |
13846 |
7.93 |
32,252 |
30,317 |
|
66 |
13636 |
7.81 |
32,748 |
30,785 |
|
67 |
13432 |
7.70 |
33,244 |
31,249 |
|
68 |
13235 |
7.58 |
33,740 |
31,716 |
|
69 |
13043 |
7.47 |
34,236 |
32,182 |
|
70 |
128B2 |
7.37 |
34,733 |
32,649 |
|
71 |
12676 |
7.26 |
35,229 |
33,105 |
|
72 |
125 |
7.16 |
35,725 |
33,582 |
|
73 |
12328 |
7.06 |
36,221 . |
34,048 |
|
74 |
12162 |
6.97 |
36,717 |
34,514 |
|
75 |
120 |
6.88 |
37,214 |
34,981 |
|
76 |
11842 |
6.78 |
37,710 35,447 |
|
|
77 |
11688 |
6.70 |
38,206 35,914 |
|
|
78 |
11538 |
6.61 |
38,702 |
36,464 |
|
79 |
11392 |
6.53 |
39,198 |
36,836 |
|
80 |
11250 |
6.44 |
39,695 |
37,303 |
|
81 |
11111 |
6.37 |
40,191 |
37,780 |
|
82 |
10975 |
6.29 |
40,681 |
38,246 |
|
83 |
10843 |
6.21 |
41,183 |
38,712 |
|
84 |
10714 |
6.14 |
41,679 |
39,178 |
|
85 |
10588 |
6.07 |
42,176 |
39,645 |
|
86 |
10465 |
5.99 |
42,672 |
40,112 |
|
87 |
10344 |
5.93 |
43,168 |
40,578 |
|
88 |
10202 |
5.86 |
43,664 |
41,044 |
|
89 |
10112 5.79 |
44,160 |
41,510 |
|
|
90 |
100 5.73 |
44,657 |
41,978 |
|
|
91 |
98"° 5.67 |
45,153 |
42,444 |
|
|
92 |
9782 5.61 |
45,649 |
42,910 |
|
|
93 |
96™ 5.55 46,145 |
43,376 |
||
|
94 |
95™ 5.49 46,643 |
43,844 |
||
|
95 |
9470 5.43 |
47,138 |
44,310 |
|
|
96 |
9378 5.37 |
47,634 |
44,784 |
|
|
97 |
9278 5.31 |
48,130 |
45,242 |
|
|
98 |
9188 5.26 |
48,626 |
45,708 |
|
|
99 9090 |
5.21 |
49,122 |
46,175 |
|
|
100 |
90 |
5.15 |
49,619 |
46,642 |
|
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY |
||||
|
EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DENIERS |
||||
|
TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND - RAW AND |
||||
|
THROWN - Continued |
||||
|
Interna- Deniers tional Legal Count for Count Raw and Thrown Meters Silk per , y2 Decigrammes Gramme ' per 450 Meters |
Manchester Thrown Silk Count Drams per 1,000 Yards |
Decimal Count Yards per Pound Raw I |
Decimal Count Yards per Pound Thrown, Deduct- ing 3% for Short- ening from Twist, and 3% for Soak- ing, 6% in all |
|
|
105 8571 |
4.91 |
52,100 |
48,974 |
|
|
110 |
8181 |
4.69 |
54,581 |
51,306 |
|
115 |
7S26 |
4.48 |
57,062 |
53,638 |
|
120 75 |
4.29 |
59,543 |
55,970 |
|
|
125 72 |
4.12 |
62,024 |
58,303 |
|
|
130 eg23 |
3.96 |
64,505 |
60,635 |
|
|
135 |
6666 |
3.82 |
66.986 |
62,967 |
|
140 |
64* |
3.68 69,467 |
65,299 |
|
|
145 |
6207* |
3.56 71,948 |
67,631 |
|
|
150 |
60 |
3.44 1 74,429 |
69,963 |
|
|
155 |
5806 |
3.32 76,910 |
72,295 |
|
|
160 |
S625 |
3.22 79,391 |
74,627 |
|
|
165 |
54** |
3.13 81,872 |
76,960 |
|
|
170 |
52W |
3.03 |
84,353 |
79,292 |
|
175 |
5 142 |
2.94 |
86,834 |
81,624 |
|
180 |
50 |
2.86 |
89,315 |
83,956 |
|
185 |
4g66 |
2.79 |
91,796 |
86,288 |
|
190 47K |
2.71 |
94,277 |
88,620 |
|
|
195 |
461B |
2.64 |
96,758 |
90,953 |
|
200 |
45 |
2.57 |
99,239 |
93,285 |
|
205 |
4390 |
2.52 |
101,720 |
95,467 |
|
210 |
42s6 |
2.46 |
104,201 |
97,949 |
|
215 |
4188 |
2.40 |
106,682 |
100,281 |
|
220 |
40"° |
2.34 |
109,163 |
102,613 |
|
225 |
40 |
2.29 |
111,644 |
104.945 |
|
230 |
3913 |
2,24 |
114,125 |
107.277 |
|
235 |
3830 |
2.19 |
116.606 |
109.610 |
|
240 |
3750 |
2.14 |
119.087 |
111,942 |
|
245 |
3673 |
2.10 |
121,568 |
114.274 |
|
250 |
36 |
2.06 |
124.049 |
116,606 |
|
255 |
3S29 |
2.02 |
126.530 |
118.938 |
|
260 |
3481 |
1.98 |
129,011 |
121,270 |
|
265 |
S386 |
1.94 |
131.492 |
123.602 |
|
270 |
33s3 |
1.91 |
133,973 |
125.935 |
|
275 |
3272 |
1.87 |
136,454 |
128.267 |
|
280 |
3213 |
1.84 |
138,935 |
130.599 |
|
285 |
31B7 |
1.81 |
141.416 |
132.931 |
|
290 |
3 103 |
1.78 |
143.897 |
135.263 |
|
295 |
3060 |
1.75 |
146.378 |
137.595 |
|
300 |
30 |
1.72 |
148.859 |
139.927 |
|
305 |
2950 |
1.69 |
151.340 |
142.260 |
|
310 |
2903 |
1.66 |
153.821 |
144.592 |
|
315 |
28BT |
1.63 |
156.302 |
146.924 |
|
320 28" |
1.61 |
158.783 |
149.256 |
|
|
325 27"° |
1.58 |
161.264 |
151.588 |
|
|
330 27s7 |
1,56 |
163.745 |
153.920 |
|
|
335 26s3 |
1.53 |
166.226 |
156.290 |
|
|
340 |
26" |
1.51 |
168.707 |
158.585 |
|
345 350 |
2608 2571 |
1.49 1.47 |
171,188 173,668 |
160.917 163,248 |
|
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY |
||||
|
EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DEN1ERS |
||||
|
TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND -RAW AND |
||||
|
THROWN — Continued |
||||
|
(TIT |
Decimal Count |
|||
|
Interna- tional Count Meters per Gramme |
Deniers Legal Count for Raw and Thrown Silk Vi Decigrammes per 450 Meters |
Manchester Thrown Silk Count Drams per 1,000 Yards |
Decimal Count Yards per Pound Raw |
Yards per Pound Thrown, Deduct- ing 3% for Short- ening from Twist, and 3% for So-k- ing, 6% in all |
|
355 |
2S35 |
1.45 |
176,149 |
165,570 |
|
360 |
25 |
1.43 |
178,630 167,912 |
|
|
365 |
24W |
1.41 |
181,111 170,244 |
|
|
370 |
2432 |
1.39 |
183,592 |
172,577 |
|
375 |
24 |
1.37 |
186,073 |
174,909 |
|
380 |
23" |
1.35 |
188,554 |
177,241 |
|
385 |
23s7. |
1.34 |
191,035 |
179,573 |
|
390 |
2307 |
1.32 |
193,516 |
181,905 |
|
395 |
22re |
1.30 |
195,991 184,232 |
|
|
400 |
2250 |
1.28 |
198,479 |
186,570 |
|
405 |
2222 |
1.27 |
200,960 |
188,902 |
|
410 |
2186 |
1.26 |
203,441 191,235 |
|
|
415 |
2188 |
1.24 |
205,922 193,567 |
|
|
420 |
2142 |
1.22 |
208,403 195,899 |
|
|
425 |
2 117 |
1.21 |
210,884 |
198,231 |
|
430 |
2083 |
1.20 |
213,365 200,563 |
|
|
435 |
206" |
. 1.18 |
215,846 |
202,895 |
|
440 |
2046 |
1.17 |
218,327 |
205,227 |
|
445 |
2022 |
1.16 |
220,408 |
207,183 |
|
450 |
20 |
1.14 |
223,288 |
209,881 |
|
455 |
1978 |
1.13 |
225,769 |
212,013 |
|
460 |
1956 |
1.12 |
228.250 |
214,555 |
|
465 |
1986 |
1 .11 |
230,731 |
216,887 |
|
470 |
19JB |
1.09 |
233,212 |
219,219 |
|
475 |
1894 |
1.08 |
235,639 |
221,501 |
|
480 |
187B |
1.07 |
238,174 |
223,884 |
|
485 |
1858 |
1.06 |
240,655 226,216 |
|
|
490 |
1836 |
1.05 |
243,136 228,548 |
|
|
495 |
1818 |
1.04 |
245,617 230,880 |
|
|
500 |
18 |
1.03 |
248,097 233,211 |
|
|
505 |
1782 |
1.02 |
250,578 |
235,543 |
|
510 |
1764 |
1.01 |
253,059 |
237,876 |
|
515 |
1747 |
1.00 |
255,540 |
240,208 |
|
530 |
1730 |
0.99 |
258,021 |
242,540 |
|
525 |
17U |
0.98 |
260,502 |
244,872 |
|
530 |
1698 |
0.97 |
262,983 |
247,204 |
|
535 |
1682 |
0.96 |
265,464 |
249,536 |
|
540 |
1668 |
0.95 |
267.945 |
251,868 |
|
545 |
. 16B1 |
0.94 |
270,426 |
254,200 |
|
550 |
16se |
0.93 |
272,906 |
256,532 |
|
555 |
1621 |
093 |
275,387 |
258,864 |
|
560 |
1607 |
0.92 |
277,868 |
261,096 |
|
565 |
1583 |
0.91 |
280,349 |
263,528 |
|
570 |
1578 |
0.90 |
282,830 |
265,860 |
|
575 |
15« |
0.90 |
285.311 |
268,192 |
|
580 |
1551 |
0.89 |
287.791 |
270,524 |
|
585 |
1538 |
0.88 |
290,272 |
272,856 |
|
590 |
15* |
0.87 |
292,753 |
275,188 |
|
595 |
1513 |
0.86 |
295.234 |
277,520 |
|
600 |
15 |
0.85 |
297,716 |
279,853 |
37
|
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY |
||||
|
EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DENIERS |
||||
|
TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND — RAW AND |
||||
|
THROWN — Continued |
||||
|
Interna- tional Meters per Gramme |
Deniers Manchester iSfiS^Sz ! ThrCc:unntSilk . ~,S?Ik Drams per 1,000 l/z Decigrammes Yards per 450 Meters |
Decimal Count Yards per Pound Raw |
Decimal Count Yards per Pound Thrown, Deduct- ng 3% for Short- ening from Twist, and 3% for Soak- ing, 6% in all |
|
|
610 |
1475 0.84 |
302,679 |
284,518 |
|
|
620 |
1451 0.83 |
307,641 |
289,182 |
|
|
630 |
1428 0.81 |
312,603 |
293,847 |
|
|
640 |
1406 0.80 |
317,565 |
298,511 |
|
|
650 |
1384 0.79 |
322,526 |
303,174 |
|
|
660 |
1363 0.78 |
327,488 |
307,839 |
|
|
670 |
13" 0.77 |
332,450 |
312,503 |
|
|
680 |
1323 0.75 |
337,412 |
317,167 |
|
|
690 |
1304 0.74 |
342,374 |
321,831 |
|
|
700 |
1285 0.73 |
347,336 |
326,496 |
|
|
710 |
1267 |
0.72 |
352,298 |
331,160 |
|
720 |
1260 |
0.71 |
357,260 |
335,824 |
|
730 |
1232 |
0.70 |
362,222 |
340,489 |
|
740 |
1216 0.69 |
367,184 |
345,153 |
|
|
750 |
12 0.68 |
372,145 |
349,816 |
|
|
760 |
II83 0.67 |
377,107 |
354,481 |
|
|
770 |
II68 0.67 |
382,069 |
359,145 |
|
|
780 |
II53 |
0.66 |
387,031 |
363,809 |
|
790 . II38 |
0.65 |
391,993 |
368,473 |
|
|
800 II28 |
0.64 |
396,956 |
373,139 |
|
|
810 H11 0.63 |
401,918 |
377,803 |
||
|
820 |
1097 0.63 |
406,880 |
382,477 |
|
|
830 |
1084 |
0.62 |
411,842 |
387,131 |
|
840 |
1071 |
0.61 |
416,804 |
391,796 |
|
850 |
1068 |
0.60 |
421,765 |
396,459 |
|
860 |
1046 |
0.60 |
426,727 |
401,123 |
|
870 |
1034 |
6.59 |
431,689 |
405,788 |
|
880 |
1022 |
0.58 |
436,651 |
410,452 |
|
890 |
1011 |
0.58 |
441,613 |
415,116 |
|
900 |
10 |
0.57 |
446,575 |
419,780 |
|
910 |
98. |
0.56 |
451,537 |
424,454 |
|
920 |
Q78 |
0.56 |
456,499 |
429,109 |
|
930 |
9OT |
0.55 |
461,461 |
433,773 |
|
940 |
957 |
0.54 |
466,423 |
438,438 |
|
950 |
947 |
0.54 |
471,384 |
443,101 |
|
960 970 |
9s7 928 |
0.53 0.53 |
476,346 481,308 |
447,765 452,429 |
|
980 |
918 |
0.52 |
486,270 457,094 |
|
|
990 |
g«9 |
0.52 |
491,232 461.758 |
|
|
1000 |
9 |
0.51 |
496,194 |
466.422 |
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY
TABLE OF LENGTH OF YARDS OF SILK TO
THE POUND IN SIZES 9/11 TO 16/18
DENIERS,
TAKING THE AVERAGE OF THE SIZE
The table is based on the following figures of length of silk of One denier.
1 denier=0.05 grams. 1 kilogram=1000 grams.
1 kilogram=20,000 deniers of 450 meters each. 1 kilogram=9,000,000 meters— 354,330,000 inches. 1 kilogram=2.2046 pounds. 1 pound=160,723,033 inches.
1 pound=4,464,528 yards to one pound of one 'denier. 4,444,444=Rule of seven four's yards to one pound of 1 denier. 20,084=Error less than l/2 of 1%.
4,464,528
The exact decimal equivalent in inches for one meter as used in Europe and elsewhere, is 39.370432. As established by United States Standard it is 39.37 inches. This standard has been followed in pre- paring this book as the difference of .000432 may be considered negligible for silk calculations.
The term denier is generally used in this country as applying ex- clusively to raw silk. To indicate the size of thrown silk, the term dram is used. A 1 dram silk measures 1000 yards for a weight of one dram, which equals 256,000 yards per pound. A 2 dram silk is one-half this or 128,000 yards per pound. A 3 dram, 85,333 yards, and so on.
To find the dramage of any given length per pound divide 256,000 by the yards.
To find the yardage of any given dramage divide 256,000 by the drams. To reduce any given dramage to deniers multiply the dramage by 17.44. To reduce any given deniers to drams divide the deniers by 17.44.
In figuring sizes of thrown silk always make due allowance for soap and oil, take up in twist, etc.
39
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
TABLE OF LENGTHS OF YARDS OF SILK
TO THE POUND IN SIZES 9/11 TO
16/18 DENIERS, TAKING THE
AVERAGE OF THE SIZE
Explanation: 1. The table gives the raw silk yards to the pound.
2. If thrown unsoaked, the silk is shortened about three
per cent., depending on the varying twists and threads.
3. The difference between the raw and thrown silk boil-off,
when added to this three per cent., indicates the num- ber of the table to be used up to ten.
Illustration on page 21.
|
(3) Thrown |
(4) 3% Shorten- |
|||
|
RAW |
3% Shortening |
ing 4. 1% Soap |
||
|
16/18-1654 to 1754 |
255,100 to 270,600 |
247,400 to 262,500 |
244,900 to 259,800 |
16/18-1654 to 1754 |
|
15/17-1554 to 1654 |
270,600 to 288, "00 |
262,500to279,400 |
259,800 to 276, 500 |
15/17-1554 to 1654 |
|
14/16-1454 to 1554 |
288,000 to 307,900 |
279,400 to 298,700 |
276,500 to 295,600 |
14/16-1454 to 1554 |
|
13/15-1354 to 1454 |
307,900 to 330, 700 |
298,700 to 320, 800 |
295,600 to 317,500 |
13/15 1354 to 1454 |
|
12/14-1254 to 1354 |
330,700to 357,100 |
320,800 to 346,400 |
317,500 to 342, 800 |
12/14-1254 to 1354 |
|
11/13-1154 to 1254 |
357,100 to 388,200 |
346,400 to 376,600 |
342, 800 to 372, 700 |
11/13-1154 to 1254 |
|
10/12-1054 to 1154 |
388,200 to 425,200 |
376,600 to 412,400 |
372, 700 to 408,200 |
10/12-1054 to 1154 |
|
9/11- 954 to 1054 |
425, 200 to 4- 09,900 |
412,400 10455,800 |
408,200 to 451,100 |
9/11- 954 to 1054 |
|
' ' |
(5) 3% Shorten- |
(6) 3% Shorten- |
(7) 3% Shorten- |
|
|
ing + 2% Soap |
ing + 3% Soap |
ing 4. 4% Soap |
||
|
16/18-1654 to 1754 |
242,300to257,100 |
239,800to254,400 |
237,200 to 251, 700 |
16/18-1654 to 1754 |
|
15/17-1554 to 1654 |
257, 100 to 273,600 |
254, 400 to 270,700 |
251, 700 to 267,800 |
.15/17-1554 to 1654 |
|
14/16-1454 to 1554 |
273,600 to 292, 500 |
270,700 to 289,400 |
267,800 to 286,300 |
14/16-1454 to 1554 |
|
13/15 1354 to 1454 |
292, oOOto 314,200 |
289,400 to 310, 900 |
286,300 to 307,600 |
13/15-1354 to 1454 |
|
12/14-1254 to 1354 |
314,200 to 339,200 |
310,900 to 335,700 |
307,600 to 332, 100 |
12/14-1254 to 1354 |
|
11/13-1154 to 1254 |
339,200 to 338,800 |
335,700 to 364,SOO |
332, 100 to 361, 000 |
11/13-1154 to 1254 |
|
10/12-1054 to 1154 |
368,800 to 403,900 |
364, 900 to 399,700 |
361, 000 to 395, 400 |
10/12-1054 to 1154 |
|
9/11- 954 to 1054 |
403,900 to 446,400 |
399,700 to 441, 700 |
395,400 to 437,000 |
9/11- 954 to 10~54 |
|
(8) 3% Shorten- |
(9) 3% Shorten- |
(10) 3% Shorten- |
||
|
ing + 5% Soap |
ing 4.6% Soap |
ing + 7% Soap |
||
|
16/18 1854 to 1754 , 234,700to249,000 |
232,100 to 246,200 |
229,600 to 243,500 |
16/18-1654 to 1754 |
|
|
15/17-1554 to 1654 249,000 to 265,000 |
246,200 to 262 000 |
243,500 to 259, 200 |
15/17-1554 to 1654 |
|
|
14/16-1454 to 15J4 |
265,000 to 283,300 262,000 to 280,200 |
259,200 to 277,100 |
14/16-1454 to 1554 |
|
|
13/15 1354 to 1454 283,300 to 304,200 280,200 to 300,900 |
277,100 to 297,600 |
13/15-1354 to 1454 |
||
|
12/14-1254 to 1354 304.200 to 328,500 300,900 to 325,000 |
297,600 to 321,400 |
12/14-1254 to 1354 |
||
|
11/13-11}4 to 1254 |
328,500 to 357,100 |
325,000 to 353,300 |
321,400to 349,400 |
11/13-1154 to 1254 |
|
10/12-1054 to 11 54 |
357,100 to 391, 200 |
353,300 to 386,900 |
349,400 to 382, 700 |
10/12-1054 to 1154 |
|
9/11- 954 to 1054 |
391,200to432,300 |
386,900 to 427,600 |
382, 700 to 423 000 |
9/11- 954 to 1054 |
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY
POINTS OF INTEREST IN THE HISTORY OF SILK CONDITIONING
'I he first attempt to condition raw silk was made in 1684 in Italy, when a royal decree, issued the 15th of October of that year in Turin, in- formed both sellers and buyers of raw silk that there was a possibility of establishing the true weight of raw silk in an impartial manner.
At that period the conditioning of silk was a private operation of good faith between the two parties interested. Gradually the necessity de- veloped for a public and disinterested testing house, and»in 1724 the first conditioning house was founded in Turin and opened for public service on the 8th of April.
The method of conditioning adopted was the following: Raw silk skeins were suspended on sticks and exposed to the open air for 24 hours in large, open rooms in order to obtain uniformity in the condition of moisture, of the silk. In summer time, the natural state of the atmosphere was considered propitious for the silk, whereas during the cooler part of the year the rooms were heated and the temperature of the air kept at 20 to 25 degrees Centigrade. A.t the end of this drying opration of 24 hours the raw silk was considered to be in the proper condition of moisture to change the ownership.
On the 25th of March 1735 the King of Italy issued a decree en- trusting to the Consul of Trade the task of establishing detailed rules for the method of conditioning; also of appointing the manager and stipulat- ing the charges to be collected for the operation. The receipts went to the treasury of the Consulate of Trade, a fact which means that this first conditioning house was an official institution.
In 1779 a merchant of Lyons, Mr. Rast-Maupas, made a trip through the whole of Italy and on his way back visited also the conditioning house in Turin. On his return to Lyons, Mr. Rast addressed to the Consul of Trade a request to be allowed to open a conditioning house in Lyons and asking for the exclusive right to condition raw silk for a period of 30 years. This request was rejected with the argument that the monopoly for conditioning silk could only be granted to the Board of Trade of Lyons, and not to a private individual. Consequently Mr. Rast being convinced of the necessity of such an institution, opened a conditioning house cmt of his own funds without any official protection. He adopted a somewhat different method cHt conditioning than the one used in Turin. Instead of hanging the silk in open rooms on sticks, he had boxes or par- titions of wire-grate, where the raw silk was placed in a loose manner and exposed to the freely passing air. Seller and buyer were present at the filling of these boxes which were then sealed. After 24 hours of drying, the seals were removed arid the silk weighed net in the presence of both
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
seller and buyer, and this weight was recognized as the official commercial weight of the silk. As in Turin the boxes were heated, or not, accord- ing to the season of the year. The Lyons system had the advantage of leaving the bale undivided and under seal, thus avoiding any mixing or theft.
Mr. Rast was successful, and the success of his venture induced three other merchants of Lyons to establish similar conditioning houses. Con- sequently a strong competition amongst the four institutions sprang up with the result that the three younger concerns were ruined. The con- petition had affected the integrity of the operation, as improper means to influence the weight of the silk had been introduced in order to attract clients to these contestants, and these manipulations destroyed the good reputation of the" Lyons Trade.
In order to overcome this drawback the Board of Trade of Lyons applied to the Central Government in Paris suggesting the amalgamation of the four private conditioning houses, and by seizing the business to run it as a monopoly under a very close supervision.
Consequently, by decree of the 23rd Germinal XIII (5th April, 1805) Napoleon I. conferred on the Board of Trade of Lyons the monopoly for the conditioning of silk. The owners of the four private conditioning houses were forced to close and received a small compensation. In 1809 the Board of Trade voted the building of a new plant, and in 1814 the concern was opened for the public service. Until 1842 the method of con- ditioning remained unchanged.
In 1831 a French engineer, Mr. Leon Talabot, tried to have a new system of conditioning adopted. But it was only after ten years of hard work and by innumerable tests of comparison that he succeeded in 1842 in convincing the Board of Trade and the Central Government of the superiority of his method over the old system. The collaborators of Mr. Leon Talabot were the two constructors Persoz and Rochat.
At first Mr. Talabot had dried out the whole bale of silk by hot air, and then gave to the silk a certain amount of moisture. But the high temperature affected the fibre of the silk and the operation occupied too much time and was too expensive. He had then the idea of building the drying oven on a much smaller scale and instead of drying out the whole bale to use only samples from all parts of the bale. These samples were dried out until a complete state of dryness was obtained, that is to say until the heat had no more influence on the weight of the silk. By means of careful studies, and hundred of tests followed systematically for years, he had arrived at the conclusion that 10% negain of moisture is the natural specific state or condition of raw silk. Later on the percentage of allow- ance for regain was raised to 11% which is now the recognized standard throughout the silk trade of the world.
Since 1842 nothing has been changed in this standard of establishing the commercial weight of the raw silk. Only the method of attaining the
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY
absolute weight (dry weight) has changed occasionally by using different kinds of heating material, such as charcoal, gas, steam, electricity and others.
Up to 1903 all the systems were in connection with the fact that the high chimney exerted a certain suction power from the ovens into the chimney. But this suction of air was variable and depended on the state of atmosphere, such as hot or cold weather, wind, rain, sunshine, each of these facts influencing the amount of draught in the chimney. All possible means were tried to counterbalance these effects by adopting regulating machinery of different systems, but without absolute success.
Mr. Guiseppe Corti, the Manager of the Milan Conditioning House Cooperativa, conceived the idea, that instead of the suction power of the chimney, a ventilator or blower might be used to force the necessary amount of heated air through the ovens and silk and thus obtain the ab- solute weight of the silk samples. He constructed the machinery fit for the purpose and had it patented.
At the present time all the important Conditioning Houses in Europe have adopted the Corti System, which means a good step forward, as the conditioning operation has been shortened by nearly one-half, and uni- formity of method obtained, which was unknown before.
There are Conditioning Houses at the following points, as well as in some other places where the testing is principally on other fibres.
Italy
France
Szvitserland Germany
Austria England
Milan (2)
Turin
Bergamo
Lecco
Como
Florence
Udine
Messina
Lyons
St. Etienne
St. Chamond
Aubenas
Avignon
Calais
Paris
Marseilles
Zurich
Basel
Crefeld
Elberfeld
Vienna
Bradford
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
RAW SILK RULES AND REGULATIONS
TO GOVERN TRANSACTIONS BETWEEN BUYERS AND SELLERS
IN
THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Approved by the Raw Silk Division of the Silk Association May 18, 1908, and approved by the Board of Managers of the Silk As- sociation of America, May 22, 1908, by the following resolution :
RESOLVED, That the Raw Silk Rules and Regulations to govern transactions be- tween Buyers and Sellers on the Raw Silk Market, which have been approved by the Raw Silk Division of the Silk Association of America, have been care- fully considered by the Board of Managers and approved by them.
The Board feels justified in adopting them as rules to govern (in the absence of other special agreements), the adjudication of all disputes or claims which may be referred to the Arbitration Committee of the Silk Association of America for settlement.
RULES
NOTE. — It is understood that nothing in the following rules shall be construed as waiving the right in individual transactions to make any special or distinct contrary agreement, but that the rules shall govern only in cases where no special or specific contract exists.
SALES OF SPECIFIED OR IDENTIFIABLE LOTS OF SILK from stock, or to arrive, for prompt, or future delivery (as for instance, of a lot giving marks and numbers, or of Seller's purchase of such and such a date, or of a lot shipped on a specified steamer or date, or in any other manner identifiable and distinct from other silks), are cancelled by destruction of such silks by fire, flood, marine disaster, or other unavoidable casualty prior to delivery dates as called for by contract; or by the failure of Reeler, or by damage to, or de- struction of, the producing factory prior to delivery by the Reeler. NOTE.— The buyer can protect himself at any time, by taking out additional marine insurance to any extent.
SALES OF AN UNSPECIFIED LOT OF A GIVEN QUALITY, GRADE, CLASS AND SIZE OF SILK (as for instance, a sale of 100 Bales Japan Filatures No. 1 at a given price and delivery), cannot be voided except by mutual consent of Buyer and Seller. Delay in actual transit, damage, or destruction of an unspecified lot of silk, where a similar lot is not obtainable on the New York market, gives the Seller a reasonable period (to be determined by Arbitra- tion in case of dispute) in which to replace.
DELIVERIES. Sales for delivery on a given date, demand delivery or readiness for delivery on the date specified.
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY
Sales for delivery on arrival on or about a given date, give Seller the right of delivery 15 days earlier or later than the date specified.
Sales for delivery within a given period, give Seller the right of delivery at any time within the period specified, unless the con- tract calls for specific deliveries during said period.
Seller should notify Buyer of readiness to deliver, in accord- ance with contract terms of delivery, and Buyer is under equal obligation to call for silk when due him, but inadvertent failure of either party to tender or call for delivery, shall not void contract where readiness to deliver can be proved.
Delivery by Seller to common carrier, or Agent of Buyer, in compliance with oral or written instructions of Buyer, or party ordering shipment, is at the risk of said Buyer, or party ordering shipment.
SHIPMENTS FROM ABROAD. Sales for shipment on or before a given date, demand shipment on or before the date specified.
Sales for shipment on or about a given date, give Seller the right of shipment 15 days earlier or later than the date specified.
Sales for shipment within a given period, give Seller the right of shipment at any time within the period specified, unless the con- tract calls for specific shipments during said period.
Date of bill of lading shall be construed as giving date of shipment.
DEFERRED DELIVERIES caused by request of Buyer, are at the risk of Buyer, who shall pay interest if incurred, storage and fire in- surance.
FIRE INSURANCE. In case of total or partial loss by fire where silks remain in the custody of Seller for account of Buyer, whether actually billed up or held for deferred delivery (paid for or not), the amount due Seller becomes payable in accordance with terms of contract, and Seller shall credit Buyer with whatever amount may be recovered from the Underwriters on the lots in question.
WEIGHTS — Actual Weight and Tare is weight as taken at the time of de- livery, or billing date (if delivery is deferred), less actual tare of bags, papers and strings.
Invoice Weight is net weight as invoiced by Seller or Seller's Agent at point from which originally shipped.
Conditioned Weight. To ascertain conditioned weight of a lot of Asiatic silks sold on basis of conditioned weight, plus the percentages provided for the different classes of silk, at least two bales out of every five bales shall be tested at Conditioning House in New York. The average of all tests must be accepted as the
45
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
basis for entire lot, and expense of conditioning divided equally be- tween Buyer and Seller.
Questions Over Actual and/or Invoice Weight must be adjusted by Buyer notifying Seller that he wishes the lot rebilled to him conditioned weight plus the usual percentages, and Buyer must then send at least two original bales out of every five bales or less of the lot, to be conditioned at Conditioning House in New York, in accordance with the rule for "Conditioned Weight." Re- sult shall be accepted by Buyer and Seller, whether to their benefit or loss, and conditioning costs borne by losing party. Condition- ing tests by Buyer, or his Agent, before notifying Seller that con- ditioned weight will . be accepted, cancels Buyer's claim to weight adjustment, and proof that such prior conditioning tests have not been made must be furnished, if desired.
Japan Silks, China Steam Filatures, Canton Filatures are sold New York conditioned weight plus 2 per cent., or actual weight, or invoice weight.
China Rereels, Canton Rereels are sold conditioned weight plus 2H per cent, or actual weight, or invoice weight.
European Silks are sold conditioned weight, and European Con- ditioning House tests must be accepted, unless Buyer chooses, at his own expense, to have the silk reconditioned in New York. Should the result be 1/3 of one per cent, less than European conditioned weights, Seller must accept the New York conditioned weights and pay costs of the re-conditioning; each bale to be treated indi- vidually.
Tussahs are sold invoice weights, or actual weights carrying no guarantee of loss in weight by conditioning.
Bale Weights. A contract calls for the delivery of a number of bales or pounds varying on the average not more than 5 per cent, from the following usual bale weights:
Europeans 220 pounds net
Japans 135
Shanghais 135 " "
Tussahs 135 " "
Cantons 106 2/3
Variation in weight beyond the allowed 5 per cent., shall not be cause for cancellation of contract, but may be adjusted with Seller at market rates at the time of delivery.
ADULTERATION. Shanghai Rereels and Native Filatures are guaranteed by Seller not to lose more than 22 per cent, by boil off at Condition- ing House in New York. Buyer and Seller may have as many tests made as they see fit, at their own expense, and the average of all such tests shall govern.
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY
VARIATION OF SIZE. The average size under contract shall not vary more than given below for different classes and grades uf silk. In case of dispute, Buyer and Seller may have as many tests made at Conditioning House in New York as they desire. The average of all tests on a bale shall determine the size of silks in the bale. For Asiatics, the average of all bales of a lot shall determine the aver- age of the lot, and if more than one-third of the bales in each individual lot are of wrong size, such entire lot may be rejected; otherwise, only the incorrect bales may be rejected. European bales are treated individually. Test skeins must be drawn from bales by the Conditioning House, and the total expense of such tests must be borne by the losing party.
European Silks. European Conditioning House sizing tickets shall be final, unless demonstrated to be wrong by Conditioning House at New York. EXTRA CLASSICAL TO No. 1 INCLUSIVE 11/12 AND FINER shall not vary more than 3/8 denier either way from the average given on each and every bale.
From 11/13 to 15/17 1/2 denier either way is allowed
From 16/18 to 19/21 3/4 "
From 20/22 to 24/26 7/8 " " " "
From 25/27 to 28/30 1 " " " "
FULLER, the variation is by agreement.
Japans. Seller's sizing tests, or Yokohama Conditioning House sizing tickets shall be final, unless demonstrated to be wrong by Conditioning House at New York. FANCY AND DOUBLE EXTRA are governed by the same rule as Europeans. FILATURES AND REREELS, EXTRA TO No. 1/1^2 INCLUSIVE, and BEST EXTRA KAKEDAS 14/16 AND FINER, shall not vary more than 1/2 denier either way for the lot, and 1 denier for each bale, from the average given. FILA- TURES AND REREELS No. 1 1/2 TO No. 2 INCLUSIVE AND KAKEDAS EXTRA TO No. 1 INCLUSIVE 14/18 AND FINER, shall not vary more than 1 denier either way for the lot, and 1 1/2 denier for each bale, from the average given. LOWER GRADES carry no guarantee of size.
SIZE 16/18 AND COARSER IN FILATURES No. 1 AND HIGHER GRADES shall not vary more than the European allowances for the lot, and 1/2 denier additional for each bale, from the average given. COARSE SIZES below No. 1 carry no guarantee of size.
China Steam Filatures. Seller's si/ing tests shall be final, unless demonstrated to be wrong by Conditioning House at New York. FILATURES FIRST CATEGORY are governed by the rule for Europeans. FILATURES SECOND CATEGORY 14/16 AND FINER shall not vary more than 1/2 denier either way for the lot, and 1 denier for each bale, from the average given. FILATURES THIRD CATEGORY 14/16 AND FINER shall not vary more than 3/4 denier either way for the lot. and 1 denier for each bale, from the average given.
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
Shanghai Rereels, Native Filatures and Tussahs carry no guarantee of size.
Canton Filatures. Seller's sizing tests shall be final, unless demonstrated to be wrong by Conditioning House at New York. DOUBLE EXTRA AND EXTRA 14/16 AND FINER shall not vary more than 3/4 denier either way for the lot, and 1 1/4 denier for each bale, from the average given. 16/20 TO 28/32 shall, not vary more than 1 1/2 denier either way for the lot, and 2 deniers for each bale, from the average given. FILATURES No. 1 — 14/16 AND FINER shall not vary more than 1 denier either way for the lot, and 1 1/2 denier for each bale, from the average given.
Canton Filatures No. 2 and lower 1
Canton Rereels }carrv no Suarantee of size.
REJECTIONS AND REPLACEMENTS. Any bales or lots rejected for proper cause must be replaced by Seller and accepted by Buyer within 15 days of rejection agreed to by Seller or established by arbitration. Where a lot of similar quality and size is not ob- tainable on the New York market, Seller must pay Buyer an allow- ance to cover market difference, if any. In case of a specified, un- inspected lot on a primary market — of which all or a portion shall prove upon inspection not of the stipulated quality and/or size — Seller must immediately notify Buyer, who shall have the option of cancelling such incorrect portion of the contract, or of instructing Seller to accept it with any allowance that he may be able to collect, or of giving the necessary time for replacement.
CLAIMS FOR DIFFERENCES IN QUALITY AND/OR SIZE. Seller's obligation to deliver raw silk of contract quality and size is clearly defined. Buyer is under equal obligation to examine and test silk received, and promptly pass upon its quality and size as raw silk in the bale. This can be determined by testing sample skeins of the lot or one entire bale; Buyer must then accept, or immediately notify Seller of intention to reject the balance of the lot. All claims must be made within two weeks after delivery; and where silks remain in the custody of Seller for account of Buyer, the Buyer shall have three weeks from expiration of time for delivery in which to pass upon quality and size; after which periods no claims shall be ad- missible unless false or fraudulent packing can be shown. In no case can the Seller be held as guaranteeing the working of the silk, or its suitability to produce certain results, unless by special agreement.
ARBITRATION. All differences arising between Buyer and Seller must be submitted to the Arbitration Committee of the Silk Association of America.
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOM E STREET, NEW YORK CITY
SELLING TERMS
The recognized rate of discount in the Silk Trade is 6 per cent, per annum when not otherwise stated or agreed.
Offers of silk when not otherwise stated imply : 6 months basis for Asiatics. 60 days basis for Europeans.
Six months, 4 Months, 3 Months, or 60 Day Notes. Such sales convey no right to discount. Within 30 days from date of bill. Buyer must give his note for the period specified, bearing same date as bill, drawn to his own order, blank endorsed and payable at discretionary points as denned by New York Clearing House.
Six Months' Notes, or Cash Less 3 Per Cent, implies the right of Buyer to pay his bill within 10 days (which are not discountable) by deducting 3 per cent, from the face thereof; otherwise he must give 6 months' notes from date of bill as above provided.
Four Months' Notes, or Cash Less 2 Per Cent, are governed in principle by the above terms.
Ninety Days' Notes, or Cash Less 1 1/2 Per Cent, are governed in principle by the above terms.
Ninety Days, Sixty Days, or Thirty Days— requires that the bill must be paid within the time specified.
Six Months' Basis, Payment Within 30 Days, or 60 Days or 90 Days (as written) requires payment at any time within period stated, with discount for unexpired portion of the six months.
Six Months' Basis, Settlement by Note or Cash Within 30 Days, or 60 Days, or 90 Days (as written) gives Buyer the option of pay- ing (at any time within the stipulated period for settlement) in cash less discount for unexpired portion of the six months, or giving (at any time within the stipulated period for settlement) his six months' note from date of bill.
Cash Sales less a stipulated discount require immediate payment of the bill less the specified discount.
Bankers' Credit Sales require the Buyer to immediately furnish approved Credits at the usance agreed upon in the transaction. For such sales the Seller takes no responsibility for arrival, damage, loss or pilferage en route. Seller's failure to demand the Letter of Credit shall not be cause for voiding the contract.
F. 0. B. — Free on Board, is the Shipper's invoice cost of the silk placed on board ship at port of original export ; Buyer must pro- vide and pay for marine insurance and freight.
C. & F. — Cost and Freight, is the Shipper's invoice cost including freight.
C. F. & I.— Cost, Freight and Insurance, is the Shipper's invoice cost including freight and marine insurance.
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
CLASSIFICATIONS OF RAW SILKS
Adopted by Division A., June 15, 1908
At the request of the Board of Managers of the Silk Association of America, Division A. has carefully considered the classification names to apply to the various qualities of European Silk, and Japan Filatures, Rereels and Kakedas dealt in on the New York Market and have adopted the following:
EUROPEAN SILKS.
Grand Extra. Best No. 1.
Extra Classical. No. 1.
Best Classical. Realina.
Classical.
JAPAN SILKS. Filatures. Rereels.
Double Extra. Extra.
Extra. No. 1
Sinshiu Extra. No. 1-1^.
Best No.-a to Extra. No. 1^.
Best No. 1. No. 1^-2.
Hard Nature No. 1. No. 2.
No. 1 (of the grade of Sinshiu No. 2-2^. Okaya (Chicken) Summer No. 2^. reeling Season 1907-8. No. 3.
No. l-iy2. Kakeda.
No. iy2. Best Extra.
No. iy2-2. Extra.
No. 2. No. 1.
No. 2. No. 3.
The Board of Managers of the Silk Association of America at a meet- ing on June 10, 1908, approved the foregoing classification with the recom- mendation that the Raw Silk Division of the Association consider the feasibility of tabulating a set of descriptions with samples of raw silk to represent the agreed upon classification at the opening of each silk season.
On June 15, 1908, the Raw Silk Division voted to endeavor to adopt a standard for No. 1 Filatures and rereels as soon after the opening of each silk season as sufficient silk shall have arrived in New York to give a fair representation of the average quality of the season's summer reelings, and this matter is now under consideration by them.
It is believed that the deposit with the Silk Association of America at the opening of each silk season of a set of samples representing say five grades of silk would bring within the reach of both buyer and seller a standard to which offerings of parcels could be compared; thereby avoiding existing uncertainty and misapprehension as to qualities.
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY
SILK THROWSTERS' ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA
RULES AND REGULATIONS
TO GOVERN TRANSACTIONS IN THROWING SILK (As Amended June 21, 1907.)
Approved, respectively, by the Board of Managers of the Silk Associa- tion of America, February 13, 1907, and August 14, 1907.
RESOLVED, That the Rules and Regulations of the Silk Throwsters' Association of America submitted to the Silk Association of America on January 5th, 1907, have been carefully considered by the Board of Managers of the Silk Associa- tion of America and are approved by .them.
The Board feels justified in adopting them as rules to govern the adjudica- tion of disputes or settlement of claims between throwsters and weavers or whomsoever they may concern, where no other special agreements have been made, provided the owner of the raw silk has been furnished with a copy of the regulations of the Silk Throwsters' Association prior to the consignment of silk to be thrown.
Article I. Winding — Raw silk is single thread as reeled from the cocoons and known as (raw silk with knotted ends). It is understood to be a continuous thread from beginning to end of the skein and as a rule this class of silk must be such that one winder can attend to one hundred swifts with a thread speed of sixty yards per minute.
Article II. Soaking — Only such ingredients shall be added in soak- ing the silk as will boil out easily in the ordinary process of dyeing, and only such amounts as shall be necessary for the proper throwing of the silk, but not to exceed 5 per cent, gain in weight.
Article III. Twist — An average variation of 10 per cent, on organ- zine (20 test skeins) either way from the twist as ordered is permissible. On tram two and one-half to three turns per inch, a variation of one- half turn either way may be allowed.
Article IV. Size — The fineness of silk is determined by the size. The size is the number of deniers which a skein of a certain length weighs. The legal denier is a skein of silk four hundred and fifty metres long, wound in four hundred turns on a reel of one hundred and twelve and one-half centimeters in circumference and weighed by a unit of five centigrams (called denier).
To establish the size of a lot of silk, ten skeins are taken from every bale and from different parts of the bale, and from each skein two test skeins are reeled off, on Japan silks, one inside and one outside skein. The weight of these test skeins is to be reduced to conditioned weight in case either of the parties to the transaction desires. On raw silk up to twenty deniers a margin of one-half denier average, above or below, is permissible; coarser sizes are treated as special articles.
The regularity (evenness) of the thread of different grades shall be such that the difference between the finest and coarsest test skeins shall not be more than is decided by the Rules of the Silk Association of America.
Article V. Reeling into Skeins — An average variation of 5 per cent. shall be allowed from the number of yards per skein, as ordered for thrown silk. The minimum number of test skeins is twenty. The pro-
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
cedure is similar to that for sizing silk. Condition House rules to apply. Article VI. Price, Terms, Etc.— The price for throwing is net cash, final settlement to be made on the average date of the return delivery of the product. The throwster is entitled to payment on account in proportion to his deliveries, and on completion of work when held for orders.
Amendment adopted June 21, 1907:
"Weights for throzving silk shall be estimated upon invoice weights, in no case less than condition weight plus (2) per cent., or upon condition weight, when given, plus two (2) per cent.
Condition zveight, as here used, is found by adding eleven (11) per cent, to absolute dry weight, determined from samples by customary methods."
Article VII. Payment of Transportation, Etc. — The consignee pays the transportation charges on receipt of the raw silk; the consignor pays the transportation charges on the return of the thrown silk.
Article VIII. Liability for Silk— A commission throwster who ac- cepts a lot of raw silk for the manufacture of tram or organzine or any other operation, is responsible to the owner for the full value of the silk as long as it remains in his possession. The throwster must cover by insurance the loss of silk against fire while in his immediate possession.
Article IX. Determination of Loss— In order to establish a claim against a throwster for excess of loss in working, the whole parcel of raw silk to be thrown should be sent to the Condition Works to be tested for the conditioned weight, where skeins of the raw silk should be re- tained. The entire quantity of the thrown silk should be returned to the Condition Works to be reweighed for conditioned weight. The boil-off tests of the raw skeins so retained and the skeins of thrown silk should be tested simultaneously in the same process, and the boil-off established in this manner by the identical process; as the matter of boiling-off is so involved in uncertainty if done at different times.
Five skeins of the raw silk should be retained from each bale, and three skeins of the thrown silk from each one hundred pounds for the boiling-off test.
This is the generally accepted practice in Europe, and the matter of the amount of loss to be allowed in the actual working of a given silk (to oc arrived at as above stated) is universally a matter of agreement between the manufacturer and the throwster. The throwster is responsi- ble at the price agreed upon on receipt of the silk for an excess of loss above the amount agreed, and the owner is to pay the throwster at this price when any less loss is made than the amount as agreed.
The manufacturer is to furnish a description of the raw silk, giving the origin, classification and grading, and is responsible to the throwster for a proper delivery of the raw silk as agreed upon. Duplicate tickets of all tests to be supplied to the throwster.
(Signed) Silk Throwsters' Association of America. Attest: By JEROME C. READ, President.
JAMES H. BRITTON, Secretary.
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOM E STJ'EET, NEW YORK CITY
CUSTOMS PREVAILING IN THE SKEIN SILK
DYEING TRADE OF THE UNITED
STATES, SEPTEMBER, 1908
STORAGE AND INSURANCE
The dyer provides safe and suitable storage for silk sent to him to dye, without charge to the customer, assumes liability for the loss, theft, or destruction of silk while in his possession, and keeps it fully insured.
TRANSPORTATION CHARGES
The dyer pays the transportation charges on the silk sent him to dye, unless otherwise agreed, and he delivers the dyed silk free within a short radius of his dye house. Transportation charges on dyed silk, shipped to a considerable distance, to be paid by the customer.
PACKING
The dyer when shipping the dyed silk is to have it safely and suitably packed, using such quality of paper, cords, and bagging as will insure the proper protection of the silk.
WITHDRAWALS OF UNDYED SILK
Should the customer order silk to be sent by the dyer to some other dye house, or to be returned to him undyed, he must reimburse the dyer for any money that has been expended by him for transportation charge, insurance, or storage of such silk.
TIME OF DELIVERY OF ORDER
Dyer must execute order with reasonable promptness. If silk is on hand at the dyer's, shipment back of the dyed silk may be expected in from one to three weeks, (according to circumstances and the nature of the work), from receipt of the order.
PRICES, DISCOUNTS, AND TERMS
Prices, discounts, and terms, are matters of mutual arrangement. A standard printed price list is generally used as a basis for prices. Bills are rendered at the end of each month, a common basis of settlement being cash within 30 days.
ORDERS FOR WEIGHTING
The dyer is obligated to deliver silk within the limits of the weighting ordered. Thus, 20-22 oz. is supposed not to run below 20 oz. and, unless by
UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY
special agreement, a greater weight than 22 oz. cannot be claimed. If the weight comes less than 20 oz. the customer can claim the price corre- sponding with what it weighs. If, however, it runs over 22 oz., even when not specially agreed on, the dyer cannot charge more for the extra weight.
WEIGHTING OF SILKS WITH VARYING BOIL-OFFS Whether the dyer treats silk having either a light or a heavy boil-off, his price is the same, though he is at greater expense in bringing up the weight of the silk that boils off most. (N. B. This is an anomaly that seems to need correction).
MATCHING COLORS
The dyer does not undertake to guarantee an exact match to sample, but does undertake to furnish a commercial match, that, is, a shade so close that fabrics made of it can be properly delivered as that color. If the customer finds on examination of dyed silk that same is off shade, or too dark, or too light, the dyer will make the necessary modification of the color, if it can be done without injury to the working qualities of the silk, without extra charge.
If, through his error, the dyer puts on the silk the wrong color, or weighting, the customer may use the lot if he chooses to do so to the best advantage charging the dyer the loss, if any. If this is impossible the dyer may be required to pay for the silk at current market prices.
SHADY SILK
Should silk be found to be shady to an uncommercial degree and the defect be found not due to the nature of the silk the dyer must try and rectify the trouble at his own expense, and should this be impossible he may be required to keep and pay for the lot.
Should the customer, before knowing of the trouble, have put such silk in work the dyer may not only be required to make right, or to take back and pay for, the silk, as already stated, but he should reimburse the customer for money actually spent in the winding, warping, quilling, etc., of such defective lot.
He is not, however, to be held liable for damaged cloth, woven from such material, past the point where the defect should have become ap- parent, as the weaving of visibly imperfect goods should not be pro- ceeded with.
The consequential damages in such cases due to standing looms. goods late for delivery, etc., fall upon the customer.
ROTTEN SILK
Should silk, originally sound, be returned from the dyer rotten, or seriously defective in strength, or should it while remaining in stock for a reasonable time after dyeing, and under proper conditions of storage,
LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY
develop such trouble, the dyer can be called on to take back and pay for the silk.
If, however, the weighting ordered is beyond the bounds of pru- dence and the limitations of good practice, the dyer should promptly notify the customer to that effect, before proceeding with the order, and, should the customer then direct that the work be proceeded with, any loss that may arise if the silk turns out unsound must be borne by the owner.
FAST COLORS
Dyers are supposed to make their colors commercially fast for such ordinary purposes as the goods are used for. Customers wanting colors fast, i. e., not liable to change by light, washing, perspiration, or what not, must so specify in ordering, and charge for the work is made ac- cordingly.
If the silk is ordered "fast" for certain uses, and is paid for on that basis, and claims should come upon the manufacturer for a deficiency in this respect when the fabric has been used under reasonable conditions, the dyer may properly be called on to make good such claims as the manu- facturer has had to allow.
MIXED SILK
Should the dyer mix one customer's silk with another's, or different lots of the same customer's silk, he is chargeable with the loss that may result.
BAD WINDING
When properly thrown silk is so handled in the dyeing that it is difficult to wind, and when in consequence the customer has to pay extra wages for the winding of it, and when excessive waste may be caused thereby, such loss in wages and waste is properly chargeable to the dyer.
As souple dyed silks generally wind poorly, specific arrangement with dyer should be made regarding same.
REMARKS
All claims and complaints should be promptly made, clearly stated, and proper opportunity given the dyer to verify and check them off.
The difficulty of dyeing and the chance of silk going wrong being very great, it is the duty of the manufacturer when a loss occurs that is chargeable to the dyer to try by all reasonable means in his power to minimize it, and each should do the best he can to help the other.
When controversies occur between dyer and manufacturer, where each party thinks the other is unreasonable, recourse can always be had to an arbitration by the Silk Association of America.
September, 1908.
Unreliable cost units Hood the market with too cheap merchandise until the sheriff or the schoolmaster calls a halt.
MANUFACTURER'S COST SHEETS
On the following pages we present two forms for use in the making of cost calculations, one for Broad Silk and one for Ribbons, which are comprehensive in character, correct in principle, and which have worked well in practise.
We believe that a careful study of these forms, and of the explana- tions regarding them, will be of interest and profit to manufacturers.
The heavy faced type represents the written-in calculation, the other is the printed form.
The various cost figures given therein are assumed simply for the purpose of illustration.
It is needless to say that preliminary calculations should always be checked back and verified by actual results.
|
BROAD SILK COST CALCULATION |
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Date, January 1, |
1909. |
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Pattern Black Taffeta. Quality C. H. 100 Yds |
35% |
Wide. |
|
|
Reeding 60/3. Width in Reed 36. |
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Raw |
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Warp 6416 Ends Organzine 1.65 Drams 4.96 Ibs. (g$5.95 |
$29.51 |
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110 Yds " 2 Thd. 13/15 Den. |
16/14 Turns " " Jap. Ex. Fil. $ " " " $ |
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Selvages 108—36—1 & 2 |
$ |
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Total 6524 Ends Organzine |
$ |
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Raw |
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FILLING 88 Picks Tram 2.57 Drams 3.40 Ibs. @$5.81 |
$19.75 |
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1 End 3 Thd. 3 |
Turns 13/15 Den. Jap. Fil. |
No. 1 |
$ |
|
Warping 110 Yds. |
6524 Ends @ 3 |
per C |
$ 1.96 |
|
Twisting 6448 Ends @ |
25 per M.= 1.62 |
-h3 |
$ .54 |
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\Veaving |
99 Yards @ 7 |
$ 6.93 |
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Picking |
99 Yards, @ 24 |
$ .75 |
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|
Cleaning |
99 Yards, @... |
$ |
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Finishing |
100 Yards, @ 1 |
$ 1.00 |
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Cards and Designs 100 Yards |
(on basis of Yards made) |
$ |
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General Expenses, 4.80—90. . . |
100 Yards, @ 5 1/3 |
$ 5.33 |
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(For Piece Dye) Dyeing and Finishing... |
100 Yards, @ . . . |
$ |
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(For Ptd. Wps.) Weaving before Printing |
110 Yards, @. . . |
$ |
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" Printing |
110 Yards, @ . . . |
$ |
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" Rebeaming |
110 Yards, @... |
$ |
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" Retwisting |
Ends @ per |
M^3 |
$ |
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Average Dyed Weight of 100 Yds. |
8.17 Ibs. Net cost of 100 |
Yds., |
$65.77 |
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Organzine weighted to 24/26 oz. Tram weighted to 30/32 oz. |
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4 per cent, is included in above figures for waste of warp. |
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7 " |
filling. |
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3 |
" twist take-up of warp and filling. |
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PARTICULARS OF COST OF SILK. |
$ |
% |
|
|
ORGANZINE TRAM |
Raw Silk |
32.76 |
.498 |
|
Raw Silk . . .$4.00 $3.80 |
Throwing |
4.66 |
.071 |
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Throwing .. .$ .70 $ .35 |
Waste |
.87 |
.013 |
|
Dyeing $1.00 $1.25 Winding ....$ .15 $ .15 |
.140 |
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Doubling ....$.... $. ... |
Winding |
1.25 |
.019 |
|
Quilling $. ... $ .15 |
Quilling |
.51 |
.008 |
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fhr. Waste.. $ .10=2^% $ .11=3% |
Warping |
1.96 |
.029 |
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Total $5.95 $5.81 |
Twisting •IT T- |
.54 |
.008 |
|
Weaving |
6.93 |
.106 |
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CONCLUSIONS. |
Picking |
.75 |
.011 |
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Net Mill Cost $0.6577 |
Finishing |
1.00 |
.015 |
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Lowest Selling Cost 65.77— 85. $0.7738 Estimated Selling Price, |
General Expense |
5.33 |
.082 |
|
$0.85 Less 15%. . . .$0.1275 $0.7225 |
65.77 |
1~000 |
|
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Weekly Product, per Loom. . .90 Yds. |
57
Erroneous cost figures tend to poverty.
REMARKS CONCERNING USE OF THE COST CALCULATION FORM, FOR BROAD SILK,
SHOWN HEREWITH
This form is for 100 yards finished cloth. A length of 110 yards warp is assumed as enough to cover take-up in weaving and unwoven ends of warp. This can be modified for goods with more or less take-up.
The size, or dramage, of organzine and tram should be figured from Conditioning House Sizing tests, and should include an average take-up in twist of about 3%.
The weight of silk for warp and filling should include waste in weav- ing and preparatory processes, and is here assumed as 4% for warp and 1% for filling, a very full figure if for plain goods. This can be modified according to experience but is an item that is generally under-estimated. Weights should be figured on Raw Conditioned basis.
Waste in throwing is filled in under "Particulars of Cost of Silk" and the proper percentages will be shown by the Conditioning and Boil-off tests.
In calculating filling the full width of warp in reed should be taken as the width.
Warping cost is figured on a price for 100 ends of 100 meters (about 110 yards) length. Mills paying on another basis can use a different form.
Total length of warp is assumed as sufficient to yield 300 yards of cloth. Twisting cost for the 100 yards is therefore marked as 1/3 of the total. For other length warps use a different divisor. Extra drawing-in expense can be here included.
Weaving, picking and cleaning are based on 99 yards, as cloth when relieved from loom tension will creep in about 1%. This is recovered in finishing and is only a regain, not a gain as many suppose.
When cleaning expenses have to be made for a line of goods experi- ence shows what percentage of pieces need cleaning and thus an average cost per yard can be arrived at.
When mills do their finishing, throwing, or printing, the market prices should appear in cost sheet, the profit or loss thereby to mill appearing in the department accounts.
"Cards and Designs" can be filled in according to the mill practise and character of the fabric. Special harness expenses, or loom mounting. can be here included.
"General Expense" should include every charge upon the mill, ex- clusive of specific items here provided for. It should cover interest on capital, loans, and Commission House advances, depreciation, and every- thing except selling expense. The view here taken is that each loom should pay its share of the expense. Thus if a 500 loom mill has an annual
Persistent unreliable estimates of cost spell bankruptcy.
expense of $120,000, each loom has to be charged with $240.00 a year, or $4.80 a week.
If a cloth weaves at rate of 80 yards weekly, 4.80-=-80=:6c. will be set down. Sixty yards a week would figure 8 cents. A greater or less charge can be apportioned to different classes of looms, wide, narrow, box, jac- quard, etc., but total earnings must equal total expense.
There are other satisfactory methods of handling this important ques- tion but there is one most common ar.d most incorrect way of dealing with it — that is, adding for expenses a percentage of cost. Figures so ob- tained are seldom right and often grossly wrong and misleading.
The cost of Beaming has been here included in the General Expense^, but, if desired, it can be figured separately.
If piece dyed goods lose in length see that proper allowance is made on the cost sheet.
"Weaving before Printing" item is weaving in of the necessary bind- ing picks, every yard or so, to preserve pattern.
In deciding what weightings to order, boil-off Conditioning House tests should be carefully studied so that proportion of weighting to actual silk fibre will be neither more or less than desired.
Prices on Raw silks bought on different terms should be reduced to a uniform basis. If desired all cost sheets can be made on a settled base price for the raw silks, and additions to, or substractions from the costs so obtained can be made as required, according to market fluctuations.
Lowest selling cost is arrived at by dividing net mill cost by 85, ex- perience showing the selling expenses and discounts of the average mill to approximate 15%.
RIBBONS.
The foregoing remarks will also apply to the cost calculation form for Ribbons which follows. An arbitrary figure of $12 a week has been assumed for the general expense per loom.
Note that the principal items of cost are silk weaving and general expenses. Therefore, selection of proper raw silk, with the best throwing and dyeing, reduces these items by increased production and excellence of output.
Within reasonable limits, a difference in price of the raw silk, throw- ing and dyeing is so small in percentage that it is easily regained in the manufacturing.
RIBBON COST CALCULATION
Date, January 1, 1908.
Pattern Black Taffeta. Quality C. H. 100 Yds. Width 45 Lignes. Spaces 18. Reeding 60/3. Width 4 Inches.
Raw
Warp 726 Ends Organzine 1.65 Drams -58 Ibs. @$5.65 $ 3.28 110 Yds " 2 Thd. 13/15 Den. " 16/14 Turns" " Jap. Ex. Fil. $
" " " " $
Selvages 48—24/2 " " " " $
Total 774 " " .."".. . $...
Raw FILLING 88 Picks Tram 2.57 Drams -38 Ibs. @$5.81
1 End 3 Thd. 3 Turns 13/15 Den. Jap. Fil. No* 1
Warping 110 Yds. 774 Ends @ 3 per C
Twisting 750 Ends @ 25 per M.= 18 -i-3
Weaving, 1.80 per cut -=-18-^10 99 Yards, @ 1
Picking, 24c. per piece 99 Yards, @ .075
Cleaning 99 Yards, @
Finishing, Blocking and Boxing 100 Yards, @ .45
Cards and Designs 100 Yards (on basis of Yards made)
. . . 100 Yards, @ .89
... 100 Yards, @
... 110 Yards, @
... 110 Yards, @
...110 Yards, @
• Ends @ per M-l-3
General Expenses, $12-^18-1-75 (For Piece Dye) Dyeing and Finishing (For Ptd. Wps.) Weaving before Printing
Printing
Rebeaming and Spacing
Retwisting
Average Dyed Weight of 100 Yds. 1.42 Ibs. Net cost of 100 Yds., Organzine weighted to 20/22 oz. Tram weighted to 30/32 Oz.
2.21
.23
.06 .99 .08
.45 .89
8.19
included in above figu:
for waste of warp, filling. " twist take-up of wa
$8.19-^-10— .82 $.82^45=1.82
id filling.
PARTICULARS OF COST OF SILK.
Raw Silk Throwing Dyeing .. Winding Doubling
Quilling
Thr. Waste..
ORGANZINE
. .$4.00 ..$.70 ..$.70 ...$ .15
.io=2y2%
Total
. . . .$5.65
CONCLUSIONS.
$5.81
Net Mill Cost, per Ligne $0.0182
Net Mill Cost, per Piece $0.82
Lowest Selling Cost 82-^85. . .$0.965 Estimated Selling Price
$1-10 Less 15% .... .$0.165 $0.935 Weekly Product, per Loom,
per Space 75 Yds.
Raw
Throwing
Dyeing
Winding
Quilling
Waste
Warping
Twisting
Weaving
Picking
Finishing, Blocking and
Boxing
General Expense ....
$
3.76 .54 .88 .15 .06 .10 .23 .06 .99 .08
.45 .89
.459 .066 .108 .018 .007 .012 .028 .007 .121 .010
.055 .109
8.19 1.000
60
Conditioning Houses supply only the information ivhich can be expressed in figures.
DON'TS
Don't fail to see that intelligent and regular use is made of your Conditioning House reports. This is often neglected. If carefully used the small cost of these tests will be, either directly or indirectly, re- turned to you many fold.
Don't believe in any testing, unless made by persons properly trained, and with accurate instruments. Europe discovered the need of exact methods years ago.
Don't look on Conditioning House charges as an expense to be avoided if possible. The salary of a weighmaster, or an employee to measure goods, is considered a necessary expense of a business, and while it could be avoided by accepting weights and measures as delivered by seller no sensible person would do so. With such an expensive and moisture absorbing material as silk the check-off of the Conditioning House is just as vital.
Don't forget that the foremost, smartest, and most economical houses use the Conditioning House freely and regularly and find a saving in so doing. Can you afford not to?
Don't forget that all people, including raw silk importers and throws- ters, are human. Therefore who is most apt to get a lot of raw silk that is in some way questionable? With whose silk is the average throwster likely to exercise the least care in the matter of waste, etc.? Why of course with those houses that do not regularly pass their raw and thrown silk through the Conditioning House.
Don't think that the United States Silk Conditioning House simply exists as an institution for preventing trickery. Its function is to enable the trade to know with aboslute certainty what weights, yardage, etc., etc., of silk, they are getting for the dollars they are paying out.
At the same time the general use by the trade of Conditioning House Tests in all transactions would practically eliminate questionable practices.
Don't forget that, if for no other reason, it pays to set an example for care and accuracy by the free use of the Conditioning House facilities as it will help to make such use the general custom, and when practically everybody tests his silk we will see fewer absurd prices for goods made by those who will not take the pains to find out just what their goods do cost them.
Don't make claims on raw silk houses, throwsters, dyers or finishers, until you are entirely sure of your ground, and the facilities offered by the Conditioning House will be found of the greatest service in the proving of all just claims, and by their use much misunderstanding may be avoided.
Don't hesitate to ask freely for information on any points that may not appear to be clear. We welcome enquiries and suggestions.
al use of conditioning tests will eliminate unfair and unnt
competition from all branches of the business and is in the
line of true costing of silk merchandise.
Don't expect something for nothing. Exact information costs money to arrive at and is worth paying for. What costs nothing is generally worth nothing.
Don't expect the Conditioning House eto tell you how to manufacture goods, or to say what sort of silks you should use for particular purposes.
Don't ask the Conditioning House to pass on the classification of any particular lot of silk. As no exact standards exist, at present, there is no basis for exact decisions.
Don't be too sure that, even in your own throwing plant, you know exactly the waste you are making. Much waste is made that never finds its way to the waste bag. An occasional Combination Test by the Con- ditioning House is a very useful check.
Don't overlook the fact that the greater the boil-off the less silk fibre you get for your money, and boil-offs differ widely. Makers of grege goods for piece dye, etc., should know the boil-off of the different lots they receive and the Conditioning House can tell them.
Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. If every bale of raw or thrown silk was regularly subjected to all the Conditioning Tests the total cost would be a very small addition to the cost of the silk. The unseen losses that may and do occur from a lack of the proper knowledge will run into astonishingly large figures.
Don't think that even when you do your own throwing tha"t you know all about the dramage of a lot by figuring out the length and number of the skeins, and that there is no use in having sizing tests made. This is a most erroneous supposition. When a garment maker buys cloth he does not cut up his goods and trust to the length holding out for as many garments as it should. He would be a poor manufacturer if he did not measure his goods first.
Don't forget that silk is not the only material in need of testing. Fine cottons, worsteds, etc., are expensive and need checking off just as much.
Don't forget that the United States Conditioning Company is not operated as a money making enterprise. It is designed to promote the general welfare of the trade, and many experienced and capable men ate giving much time, thought, and money in its service without thought of any direct commercial return. Manufacturers should show an appreciation of this by making free and constant use of its facilities, and those who do, will find that they will be well rewarded in the close control of their business that it will give them.
INDEX
Adulterations of Shanghai rereels, etc 46
Annual consumption of raw silk in United States and Europe 6
Arbitrations « 4, 44, 48, 51, 55
Asiatic silks, allowable moisture 46
Authorized Official Testing House of Silk Association of America 4
Bad winding of dyed silk 55
Blair's International Yarn Tables 33-38
Boil-off certificate 18
Boil-off, difference between Conditioning House and dyer's 19
Boil-off in dyeing, variations 54
Boil-off tests of raw and thrown silk 19, 52
Boil-off tests, variation in 7
Broad silk cost calculation 57
Canton filatures, selling weights 46
Canton filatures, variation in size 48
Canton rereels, selling weights 46
Carded silk, regain in weight 27
Certificates, rules regarding deliveries of 28
China native filatures, no guarantee of size 48
China rereels, selling weights 40
China steam filatures, selling weights 46
China steam filatures, variation in size 47
Claims against dyers 55
Claims against throwsters 52
Claims for difference in quality, or size, of raw silk 48
Classifications of raw silk 50
Color matching in dyeing 54
Combination test, description of 22
Combination test, value of 22, 28
Compound sizing test, description of 15
Conditioned weight certificate 8
Conditioned weight, plus 2%, for raw silk purchases 11
Conditioned weight, plus 2%, explanation of 11
Conditioned weight tests, variation in 7
Conditioning, description of process 9, 10, 26
Conditioning House rules and regulations 26-28
Conditioning houses in Europe, where located 43
Conditioning, Corti system 6, 43
Conditioning, Talabot system 42-43
Conditioning tests, when inconclusive 26
Contents * 3
Controversies settled by Board of Arbitration of Silk Association of America
4, 44, 48, 51, 5&
Cost calculation, broad silk 57
Cost calculation, ribbon 60
Cost sheets, manufacturer's 56-60
Cotton and cotton yarn, regain in weight 27
Cotton and wool mixed yarn, regain in weight 27
Cotton yarn tests, importance of 21
Customs prevailing in skein silk dyeing trade 53-55
Deferred deliveries of raw silk 45
Delivery by dyers of silk ordered dyed 53
Deliveries of raw silk, rules regarding same 44-45
Deniers and drams, rule for interchanging 39
Denier, length per pound 15
Denier, what it is 15, 27
Directors of United States Silk Conditioning Company 5
Disputes and differences settled by Board of Arbitration of Silk Association of
America , 4, 44, 48, 51, 55
Don'ts 61-62
Drams and deniers, equivalents of 34-38
Drams, rule for finding yardage 39
63
INDEX— Continued
PAGE
Dram system of counts 39
Dyed silk packing 53
Dyeing, results due to different boil-off s 24-25
Dyeing, value of boil-off tests 24-25
Dyer's liability for loss, etc., of silk 53
Dyer's prices, discounts and terms 53
Elasticity and Tenacity of thrown silk 16
Elasticity and Tenacity, averages. 16
Elasticity and Tenacity tests, how expressed 16, 27
Elasticity and Tenacity tests, variation in 7, 16
Equivalents of drams and deniers 34-38
Equivalents, metric 29
Equivalents of ounces in decimals of pounds 32
Equivalents of pound weights in kilos and decimals 31
European silks, classified 50
European silks, selling weights 46
European silks, variation in size 47
Excessive weighting, if ordered 55
Executive Committee of United States Silk Conditioning Company 5
Fast colors 55
Foreword 6-7
General expenses of mills, method of figuring 5S-&9
History of silk conditioning 41-43
Inconclusive conditioning tests 26
Index 63-66
nspection test, description of process 17
nsurance on raw silk 45
nsurance on silk at dyer's 53
nsurance on silk at throwster's 52
nternational system of yarn counts 33
nternational yarn tables 3338
nvoice of raw silk 10
Japan silk classification 50
Japan silks, selling weights 46
Japan silks, variations in size 47
Jute «nd jute yarns, regain in weight 27
Kakeda silk classifications 50
Lacings of skeins not considered as tare 26
Lengths of silk per pound, table of 39.40
Length per pound of one denier silk 15? 39
Length per pound, rule for finding dramage 39
Limitations and variations of raw silk sizes 47-48
Limit of time for making claims on raw silk 4g
Linen and linen yarn, regain in weight 27
Loss in throwing, illustrations 23
"Lousiness" of dyed silk ]" 17
Manufacturers' cost sheets 56.60
Matching colors in dyeing 54
Measures and weights, tables of \[[ 29
Measuring certificate OQ
Measuring length of skeins, description of process 21
Measuring tests, variation in '.'.'.'.'. 7
Metric equivalents of weights and measures 29
Meter, exact length in inches '.'.'.'.'.'. 29 39
Metric weight equivalents in pounds and decimals ' 30
INDEX — Continued
PAGE
Mixed silk, responsibility of dyer 55
Moisture allowable in Asiatic silks 46
Moisture in silk 9, 26, 27
Officers of United States Silk Conditioning Company 5
Official testing house, United States Silk Conditioning Company 4
Ounce weight equivalents in decimals of the pound 32
Packing of dyed silk 53
Payments for testing, by whom to be made 28
Percentages of regain 27
Photograph of Corti conditioning oven in operation at United States Silk Con- ditioning Company, New York Frontispiece
Photograph showing accurate weighing of samples at United States Silk Con- ditioning Company, New York 7 A
Points of interest in the history of silk conditioning 41-43
Pound weight equivalents in kilos and decimals 31
Price of shares in United States Silk Conditioning Company 5
Price list of United States Silk Conditioning Company 28
Prices, discounts and terms for dyeing 53
Principle of conditioning 7
Ravelings, or "lousiness," of dyed silk 17
Raw silk, Asiatic, allowable moisture 46
Raw silk bale weights and allowable variation 46
Raw silk classifications 50
Raw silk invoice 10
Raw silk purchase on basis of conditioned weight, plus 2% 11
Raw silk sizes, limitations and variations 47-48
Raw silk weights, how understood 45
Raw silk yards per pound, table of 40
Regain in weight of silk 9, 27
Regain in weight of various textile fibres 27
Rejections and replacements of raw silk 48
Remarks on use of manufacturers' cost calculations 58-59
Resolution of the Board of Managers of the Silk Association of America 4
Ribbon cost calculation 60
Rotten silk 54
Rules and Regulations for handling silk 26-28
Rules and Regulations of silk throwsters 51-52
Rule for interchanging deniers and drams 39
Rule of seven fours 39
Rules governing transactions in raw silk 44-49
Rules regarding delivery of certificates 28
Sales of specified lots of raw silk 44
Sales of unspecified lots of raw silk 44
Samples of raw silk on which to base classification 50
Schappe silk, regain in weight 27
Secrecy of all tests 26
Selling terms in raw silk trade 49
Shady silk 54
Shanghai rereels, no guarantee of size 48
Shipments of raw silk from abroad 45
Silk and wool mixed yarn, regain in weight 27
Silk conditioning, Points of interest in History of 41-43
Silk conditioning, Corti system 6, 43
Silk conditioning, Talabot system 42-43
Silk mixed at dyehouse 55
Silk, regain in weight 9, 27
Silk throwsters' Rules and Regulations . 51-52
Sizes of raw silk, limitations and variations 47-48
Size variation allowable in raw silk purchases 47-48
Sizing certificate 14
INDEX— Continued
PAGE
Sizing, description of compound test ....................................... 15
Sizing tests, description of process ...................................... 15, 27, 51
Sizing tests, variation in ................................................. 7
Skein silk dyeing, customs of the trade ..................................... 53-55
Soaking in throwing, limit of allowable gain ................................ 51
Soaking in throwing, substances to be used .................................. 51
Souple dyed silk .......................................................... 55
Spun silk, regain in weight ................................................ 27
Stockholders of the United States Silk Conditioning Company ............... 5
Storage of silk sent to dyer ................................................ &3
Table of lengths of silk per pound .......................................... 39-40
Take-up in twist of thrown silk ............................................ 21, 39
Talabot system of silk conditioning ......................................... 42-43
Tare, what it includes ................................................ 9, 13, 26, 45
Tenacity, table of averages ................................................ 16
Tenacity tests ............................................................. 16
Terms governing sales of raw silk .......................................... 49
Thrown silk, elasticity and tenacity of ...................................... 16
Thrown silk, variation in length of skeins ................................... 51
Thrown silk, variation in twist ............................................. 51
Throwsters' charges, weights on which based ................................ 52
Throwsters' clearances, illustrations ......................................... 23
Throwsters' liability for loss, etc., of silk ................................... 52
Throwsters' limitations as to use of soap and oil ............................. 51
Throwsters' Rules and Regulations ......................................... 51-52
Throwsters' waste or loss, how shown ...................................... 52
Time to be allowed for dyeing silk ......................................... 53
Tow and tow yarn, regain in weight ........................................ 27
Transportation charges on silk sent to dyer ................................. 53
Transportation charges on silk sent to throwster ............................ 52
Tsatlees. See China and Shanghai native filatures and rereels ................ 46, 48
Tussahs, selling weights ................................................... 46
Twist certificate ........................................................... 14
Twist tests, description of process .......................................... 16, 27
Twist tests, variation in ................................................... 7, 16
Undyed silk, withdrawals from dyer ........................................ 53
Value of Conditioning ..................................................... 67
Variation in length of thrown silk skeins ................................... 51
Variation allowable in size of raw silk ...................................... 47-48
Variation in tests ......................................................... 7
Variation in twist of thrown silk ........................................... 51
Value of tests in dyeing ................................................ 34
Waste, or loss, in throwing, how to prove ................................... 52
Weighing bales in shirts and with tare ..................................... 13
Weighing certificate ....................................................... 12
Weighting orders for dyeing, limits of variation ............................. 53
Weighting ordered, when excessive ........................................ 55
Weighting silks of different boil-off s ........................................ 5.4
Weights and measures, table of ............................................ 29
Weights of raw silk bales and allowable variations ........................... 46
Weights of raw silk purchases, how understood .............................. 45-46
Weights on which throwsters' charges are based ......................... 52
Withdrawals from dyer of undyed silk ......................... ..'...'..'.'.'.'.'. 53
Wool and cotton mixed yarn, regain in weight ......................... 27
Wool and silk mixed yarn, regain in weight ................... . ........ 27
Wool, carded, and wool waste, regain in weight .................... 27
Wool yarn, regain in weight ............................................... 27
Yards per pound of raw and thrown silk, table .............................. 40
Yarn counts, International System ........... oo
THE VALUE OF CONDITIONING
FOR WEIGHT. You know exactly how many pounds you should pay for.
Pages 9-11, 45-46
FOR VARIATION IN SIZE, AND FOR AVERAGE SIZE. You are shown the regularity of the silk, and the average yardage per pound.
Pages 15, 47
FOR ELASTICITY AND TENACITY. Enables you to select the right lots for different fabrics, thus helping production. Even the best silks, and of the same mark, vary widely. Page 16
INSPECTION TEST. Is a guide in examining quality before acceptance.
Pages 17, 48
BOIL-OFF TEST. Shows returns and clearances from the throwing. Shows the proper amount of weighting to order from dyer.
Pages 19, 23-25, 52 FOR TWIST. Showing if your silk has been twisted as ordered.
Page 16 MEASURING TEST. Tells you if your skeins are of proper length.
Page 21 COMBINATION TEST. Automatically keeps you posted in several
important directions. Pages 22-23
The cost of complete tests for every bale of raw and thrown silk used would be only about half of one per cent, of the cost of the output. In Europe this expense is considered as much a part of the manufacturing cost as any of the mechanical operations.
The American manufacturer should recognize this truth. Regular and thorough testing saves its cost many fold in preventing mistakes as well as in tangible gains.
WE DESIRE INQUIRY AND WILL GLADLY GIVE INFORMATION OR EXPLANATION REGARDING THE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK.
University of California
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