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LESSONS IN COOKERY.

HAND-BOOK

/ OF THE

NATIONAL TRAINING SCHOOL FOR COOKERY

{SOUTH KENSINGTON, LONDON).

TO WHICH 18 ADDED

THE PRINCIPLES OF DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

By THOMAS K. CHAMBERS, M. D.

EDITED BY

ELIZA A. yOUMAKS.

NEW YORK: D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,

649 AND 651 BROADWAY. 1879.

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COPTBIGHT BT

D. APPLETON & COMPANY^

1878.

PEEFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

The present work on cookery appeared in England under the title of " The Official Hand-Book of the National Training School for Cookery," and it contains the lessons on the preparation of food which were practised in that institution. It has been reprinted in this country with some slight revision, for the use of American families, because of its superior merits as a cook-book to be con- sulted in the ordinary way, and also because it is the plainest, sim- plest, and most perfect guide to self-education in the Jcitchen that has yet appeared. In this respect it represents a very marked advance in an important domestic art hitherto much neglected.

A glance at its contents will show the ground it covers, and how fully it meets the general wants. The dishes for which it provides have been selected with an unusual degree of care and judgment. They have been chosen to meet the needs of well-to-do families, and also those of more moderate means, who must observe a strict econ- omy. Provision is made for an ample and varied diet, and for meals of a simple and frugal character. Receipts are given for an excellent variety of soups, for cooking many kinds of fish in different ways, for the preparation of meats, poultry, game, and vegetables, and for a choice selection of entries, souffles, puddings, jellies, and creams. Besides the courses of a well-ordered dinner, there are directions for making rolls, biscuits, bread, and numerous dishes for breakfast and tea, together with a most valuable set of directions how to pre- pare food for the sick. The aim has been to meet the wants of the great mass of people who are not rich enough to abandon their kitchen to the management of professional cooks, and who must keep a careful eye to expense. But while the costly refinements of artis-

418541

iv PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

tic and decorative cookery are avoided, there has heen a constant ref- erence to the simple requirements of good taste in the preparation of food for the table.

But the especial merit of this volume, and the cliaracter by which it stands alone among cook-books, is the superior method it offers of teaching the art of practical cookery. It is at this vital point that all our current cook-books break down ; they make no provi- sion for getting a knowledge of this subject in any systematic way. So much in them is vague, so much taken for granted, and so much is loose, careless, and misleading in their receipts, that they are good for nothing to teach beginners, good for nothing as guides to successful practice, and only of use to those who already know enough to supply their deficiencies and protect themselves against their errors. In fact, the hand-book required to teach cookery effectually cannot be made by any single person in the usual man- ner, but it must be itself a product of such teaching.

The present volume originated in this way, and embodies a tried and successful method of making good practical cooks. The lessons given in the following pages came from a training kitchen for pupils of all grades, and the directions of its receipts are so mi- nute, explicit, distinct, and complete, that they may be followed with ease by every person of common-sense who has the slightest desire to learn. They are the results of long and careful practice in teaching beginners how to cook, and have grown out of exercises often repeated with a view of making them as perfect as possible. It is commonly regarded as a good thing in a cook-book that its compiler has tested some of its receipts and points out the troubles and failures likely to occur in early trials. But the completeness of the instructions in this work was attained through the stupidities, blunders, mistakes, questionings, and difficulties of hundreds of learn- ers of all capacities, doing the work over and over again under the critical direction of intelligent, practical teachers, who were bent upon finding out the best method of doing each thing, and the best method of teaching others how to do it. Not a single item neces- sary to perfect the required process is omitted. The steps are sep- arated, and given in numerical order, so as to enforce attention to one thing at a time, and the right thing at the right time, while the precautions against mistakes are so careful that even the dullest can hardly go wrong. Each receipt in the volume is not only the formula

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. y

for a dish, but it is also a lesson in a practical process, so that in the preparation of every article of food something is gained toward greater proficiency in the art of cooking well.

A few words in regard to the origin of the school in which it was produced will still further illustrate the character of this work. A vigorous movement has been made in England to elevate this branch of domestic economy by establishing schools for training pupils in the art of cookery. These schools have grown immediately out of the need of greater general economy among the working classes, as it was seen that the high prices of provisions were seriously aggra- vated by not knowing how to make the most of them in their kitch- en preparation. The attention of the managers of the South Ken- sington Museum of Arts in West London was several years ago drawn to the subject ; and feeling that something required to be done, they established pubhc lectures on the preparation of food with plat- form demonstrations of various culinary operations. But it was quickly found that mere exposition and illustration, though not without use, were wholly inadequate to the object in view ; because a cooking school, .to be thorough, must provide for practice. Lectur- ing, and explaining to pupils, and barely showing them how things are done, is sure to fail because cookery, like music, can only be learned by actually doing it. As well undertake to teach the piano by talking and exhibiting its capabilities as to teach a person how to make a dish properly by only listening and looking on. Provision had therefore to be made for forming classes to do themselves what they at first only saw others do.

But this task was by no means an easy one. There were no pre- existing plans to follow ; qualified teachers and suitable text-books were wanting ; it was an expensive form of education ; the public thought it a doubtful innovation; and educational authorities dis- couraged it. But the parties interested decided that the time had come for a systematic and persistent effort. They felt their way cautiously, and in 1874 organized classes for graded courses of prac- tice. The object was to give women the best possible instruction in practical cookery, and for this purpose the school was open to all. But to make its work most largely useful, it was constituted as a Normal School for training teachers to go out and establish other cooking schools in different parts of the country. This has been since done with the most encouraging success, so that there are

vi PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

.already a large number of cooking schools in England connected with the National or Common School system.

As no cook-book to be found was worth anything to aid the practical instruction proposed, the teachers had to take this matter in hand at the outset. They began by drawing up a careful set of directions to be followed by the learners in doing their work. For each lesson in all the grades each pupil was furnished with a printed sheet of these directions, stating tlie ingredients of each dish to be prepared, the quantities and separate cost of these ingredients, what was to be done first, what next, and so on through the whole series of operations, nothing being assumed as known, and all the minute steps being indicated in the order that was found best. These guides were necessarily imperfect at first, and were subject to constant re- vision and extension as experience suggested corrections; in fact, they embodied the progress of the school in the successful attainment of its object. At each new printing the improvements that had been made were incorporated, and only after years of trial were these guides to practice at length combined and issued in a book-form. The lessons or receipts of this volume were all slowly elaborated in this painstaking manner, and the mode of working proved perfectly successful with the pupils. It was easy and pleasant, yet careful and thorough, and secured a rapid and gratifying proficiency.^

In saying that the South Kensington Cooking School has been successful, I speak from direct knowledge of it. I was a pupil there for several weeks, and carefully observed its operations. The classes showed the most extraordinary mental and social diversity. There were cultivated ladies, the daughters of country gentlemen, old house- keepers, servants, cooks, and colored girls from South Africa, togeth- er with a large proportion of intelligent young women who were preparing to become teachers. They worked together with a har- mony and good feeling that, I confess, somewhat surprised me, but

^ The honor of contributing- chiefly toward the establishment of this school and super- intending its development is due to Sir Henry Cole, the able director and master mind of the South Kensington Museum. By his firm purpose and excellent judgment a novel experiment, surrounded by many difficulties, became a recognized success and a great national benefit. The "Lessons" were gradually brought into shape by the teachers, under the supervision of the accomplished daughter of Sir Henry Cole, whose initials (R. O. C.) were appended to them as revised for us© in the school, and are also sub- scribed to the EngUsh Prefiice of this work.

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAIJ^EDm^Nt -7'^ /;, , ,yif ^^Oi^

they were all closely occupied and thoroughly interested inllVoMtJljg «Lr object. There were teachers to provide materials, to plan the daily *^ work, to direct operations, and to be consulted when necessary; but the admirable method adopted left each learner to go through her task with but a small amount of assistance. Indeed, the complete- ness of the directions in hand seemed to assure the success of every pupil from the start. There was, of course, a difference in dexterity, and in facility of work previously acquired ; but raw beginners went on so well that they were astonished at what they found themselves able to do.

American ladies when looking over these lessons are apt to smile at their extreme simplicity and triviality, but it must be remembered that the difference between good and bad cookery is very much a matter of attention to trifles. Slight mistakes, small omissions, little things done at the wrong time, spoil dishes. The excellence of these lessons consists in their faithfulness in regard to minutiaa, and the habits they enforce of attention to trifling particulars. They make no claim to literary merit. The receipts are homely, direct, and meant only to be easily and distinctly understood. They are full of repetitions, because processes are constantly repeated, and it was necessary that the directions in each receipt should be full and complete. They are not enticing reading, because they were made to work by. The book, in fact, belongs in the kitchen where cook- ery is done ; and it is now republished because its success there has been demonstrated. Many hundred persons totally ignorant of the subject have become eflficient and capable cooks by pursuing the mode of practice here adopted — by going through these lessons — and the same results can be obtained by pursuing the same method anywhere. American housekeepers who have any real interest in home improvement, and are willing to take a little pains to instruct their daughters or their servants in the art of cooking well, will find the volume an adequate and invaluable help toward the attain- ment of this object. It will prove a useful text-book in the cooking schools and young ladies' cooking clubs that are springing up in this country, and classes could be advantageously formed, by its help, for kitchen practice in every female seminary.

In revising these lessons but very slight changes have been made, and those only of form. The prices of articles, an important feat- ure in the original work, and essential in the cooking school, have

viii PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION.

been omitted, as they do not apply in this country ; and American prices have not been substituted because they vary so much in differ- ent localities. As the lessons were furnished on separate sheets for daily use in the school, they all took the form of the following ex- ample, and have been modified in the manner shown by referring to the same lesson on page 180 of the present volume :

MAYONNAISE SAUCE.

Average cost of Mayonnaise Sauce {ahotet half a pint).

INGEBDIKNTS.

d

2 eggs 2

Salt and pepper j

1 teaspoonful of French vinegar ("

1 teaspoonful of mustard i

1 teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar S *

1 gill of salad oil 6

Tijne required, about 10 minviea.

Now we will show you how to make Mayonnaise Sauce.

1. We take two eggs and put the yolks in one basin and the whites (which will not be wanted) into another basin.

2. We take a wooden spoon and just stir the yolks enough to break them.

3. We add to them a salispoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper and a tahlespoonful of French vinegar.

4. We take a bottle of salad oil, and, putting our thumb half over the top, pour in, drop by drop, the oil, stirring well with a whisk the whole time ; a gill of oil will be sufficient.

ST. B.— We might add a teaspoonful of ready-mademustard or tarragon vinegar if liked, stirring it in smoothly.

5. The sawce is now ready for use.

Now it is finished.

It has been suggested that the volume ought to be Americanized by omitting some of the English receipts that are but little used in this country, and substituting others for special American dishes.

PREFACE TO THE AMERICAN EDITION. Jx

But this suggestion involves a total misconception of the character of the work, which is valuable solely on account of the qualities it de- rives from the experience of the Training School. As American dishes are not used in England, there were of course no " lessons " in their preparation. Common receipts would be out of place in the following pages, and receipts for American dishes could not be prop- erly introduced until they had been assimilated to the plan and pecul- iarities of the work. There are many hundred good English receipts that will be sought in vain in the volume; and those who refer to it to find the last new things in American cookery will of course be disappointed. It is not a receipt-book, but a book to show how to use and improve receipts ; or, as stated in the English preface, it is not a dictionary of reference, but rather a grammar of processes. Its merit is that it offers an improved mode of kitchen practice ; and, as the principles and conditions of good cookery are everywhere the same, all that is characteristic of the volume is just as applicable and valuable in this country as in England.

As the subject of cookery is in close relations with that of diet, I have aimed to increase the usefulness of the present work by appending a valuable essay upon " Diet in Health and Disease," the latest that has appeared, and by an eminent living authority on dietetical ques- tions. Dr. Chambers is the author of various able works on the uses and effects of food, and in this article, which he recently contributed to the new edition of the " Encyclopaedia Britannica," he has summed up in an admirable manner the leading facts and principles of modem dietetical science. Hints derived from this essay will often be found of much service in directing housekeepers as to what it is best to cook, and in the composition of meals in various circumstances, with reference to occupation, enjoyment, and health.

E. A. Y.

New Yobk, Augmt, 1878.

PREFACE TO THE ENGLISH EDITION.

I. This work has been written to explain in an easy way the first principles of good Cookery, and in the form of lessons is especially addressed to those who wish to carry them into practice. It has been the aim of the writer to leave no detail, however small, vaguely stated. It is taken for granted that the learner has no knowledge on the subject. The loose expressions, such as " a pinch," " a little," found in all cookery books, are therefore avoided, and precise quanti- ties are given.

II. The work is not to be regarded as an exhaustive cookery book with numerous recipes. It aims to be rather a grammar than a dic- tionary.

III. The lessons give a sufficient number of examples of cookery illustrating many degrees of cost : thus the rich may have a dish of curried rabbit for 3s. 8d,^ and the poor may have a dish of curried tripe for lO^d.

IV. The work has been used and tested in the National Training School for Cookery since 1875, and the instructors now employed in local schools throughout the country have been taught and practised by means of these lessons.

y. It has been found that it is most convenient to practise the lesson with the instructions in sight close at hand. An edition of each lesson has been printed on separate sheets of thick paper, for the use of students and teachers, which may be obtained at the N'a- tional Training School for Cookery, or at any of the local schools.

VI. The writer requests that the notice of any errors and omis- sions which are inevitable in a work of this kind may be communi- cated to R. O. C, at the National Training School for Cookery, Ex- hibition Road, London, S. W.

R. O. C.

JtUy, 187T.

CONTENTS.

PAOB

Preface to the American Edition ..... iii. Preface ........ x.

CHAPTER I. On Cleaning Ranges, Stoves, and Kitchen Utensils . . 1

Lesson 1. To Clean a Kitchen Range or Stove, 1 ; 2. To Clean a Qas-Stove, 8 ; 8. To Glean an Iron Saucepan, 8 ; 4. To Clean a Copper Btewpan, 4.

CHAPTER II. The Common Processes of Cookery .... 6

Lesson 1. Roasting, 5; 2. BoUlng, 7; 3. Baking, 10; 4. Frying, and Clarifying . Butter, Fat, and Dripping, 12.

CHAPTER m.

The Re-Cooking op Meat . . . . . .15

Lesson 1. Hashed Meat, 15; 2. Meat Fritters, 18; 3. Goblet Pie, 20; 4. Curry, 22; C. Shepherd's Pie, 23; 6. Fried Rissoles, 24; 7. Minced Meat, 26.

CHAPTER IV.

.28

Lesson 1. Curry, 28; 2. Quenelles of Veal, 81; 3. Braised Fillets of Beef, 34; 4. Mutton Cutlets, 86; 5. Chaudfroid of Chicken, 88; 6. Veal Cutlets, 39; 7. Fricassee of Chicken, 42; 8. Beef Olives, 45 ; 9. Irish Stew, 47 ; 10. Haricot Mut- ton, 48; 11. Croquettes of Chicken, 50; 12. Curried Rabbit, 52.

xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V. Stews . . . . . . . . .54

Lesson 1. A-lu-Mode Beef, 54; 2. Brazilian Stew, 56; 8. Irish Stew, 57; 4. Stewed Brisket of Beef, 58.

CHAPTER VI. Tripe ......... 60

Lesson 1. Curried Tripe, 60; 2. Tripe in Milk, 62 ; 3. Tripe a la Coutance, 63.

CHAPTER VII.

The Cooking of Meat ...... 66

Lesson 1. Braised Fillets of Veal, 66; 2. Roast Bullock's Heart, 68; 3. Cornish Pasties, 71; 4. Broiled Steak, 72; 5. Liver and Bacon, 73; 6. Meat Pie (Beef- steak), 74; 7. Meat Pudding, 76; 8. Pig's Fry, 79; 9. Boiled Pig's Head (salted) with Onion Sauce, 80; 10. Pork Pie, 83; 11. Sausage Polls, 85; 12. Sea i-ie, 87; 18. Sheep's Head, 88; 14. Stewed Steak, 92 ; 15. Toad-in-the-Hole, 94.

CHAPTER VIIl.

Cooking Poultry ....... 95

Lesson 1. Trussing a Fowl for Boasting, 95 ; . Trus sing a Fowl for Boil- ing, 99.

CHAPTER IX

Stock and Soup ....... 104

Lesson 1. Stock, 104; 2. Vegetable Stock, 106; 3. Clear Soup, 107; 4. Tapioca Cream, 111 ; 5. Bonne Femme Soup, 112 ; 6. Pur6e of Potatoes, 114 ; 7. Spring Vegetable Soup, 115; 8. Giblet Soup, 117; 9. Mock-Turtle Soup, 119; 10. Pot-au- feu, or Soup, 121; 11. Dr. Kitchener's Broth, 124; 12. Crowdie, 125; 13. Milk Soup, 126; 14. Cabbage Soup, 127 ; 15. Pea Soup, 128; 16. German Pea Soup, 129 ; 17. Macaroni Soup, 130.

CHAPTER X.

Fish . . . * 132

Lesson 1. Boiled Tnrbot and Lobster Sauce, 182; 2. Fish Pudding, 135; 8. Whitebait, 138 ; 4. Sole au Gratin, 189 ; 5. Fillets of Soles a la Maitre d'HStel, 141 ; 6. Fried Soles, 142 ; 7. Lobster Cutlets, 144 ; 8. Boiled Codfish and Oyster Sauce, 147; 9. Broiled Salmon and Tartare Sauce, 149; 10. Baked Mackerel or Herring, 151 ; 11. Baked Stuffed Haddock, 152; 12. Fish Baked in Vinegar, 158 , 18. Fried Plaice, 154; 14. Boiled Fish, 155.

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER XI.

PAaB Vegetables ........ 157

Lesson 1. Boiled and Steamed Potatoes, 157 ; 2. Mashed, Saut6, and Baked Potatoes, 159 ; 8. Fried Potatoes, 161 ; 4. Potato Croquettes, 16:3 ; 5. Brussels Sprouts, 165; 6. Carrots and Turnips, 166 ; 7. Boiled Cauliflower and Cauliflower auGratin, 167; 8. Spinach, 169; 9. Peas, 171 ; 10. Haricot Beans, 172 ; 11. Tur- nips, 173; 12. Carrots, 174; 18. Eice, 174; 14. Macaroni, 176; 15. Stewed Mac- aroni, 177.

CHAPTER XII.

Sauces ........ 178

Lesson 1. White Sauce, 178; 2. Brown Sauce, 179; 3. Mayonnaise Sauce, 180; 4, Sauce Piquante, 181 ; 5. Dutch Sauce, 182.

CHAPTER XIII.

Pastry ........ 183

Lesson J . Puflf-Paste, 188 ; 2. Short Crust, 186 ; 8. Genoese Pastry, 188 ; 4. Rough Puff-Paste, 189; 5. Suet Crust for Beef-Steak Pudding, 190; 6. Short Crust for Apple Turnovers and Apple Dumplings, 192 ; 7. Flaky Crust for Pies and Tarts, 196,

CHAPTER XIV. Puddings ........ 197

Lesson 1. Cabinet Pudding, 197; 2. Lemon Pudding, 198; 3. Apple Char- lotte, 199; 4. Pancakes, 201; 5. Rice Pudding, 202; 6. Custard Pudding, 203; 7, Plum Pudding and Wine or Brandy Sauce, 208 ; 8. Vennoise Pudding, 206 ; 9 Amber Pudding, 207; 10. Brown-Bread Pudding and German Sauce, 209; 11 Carrot Pudding, 210 ; 12. Alexandra Pudding, 211 ; 18. Blanc-Mange, 213 ; 14 Boiled Batter Pudding, 214; 15. Corn-Starch Pudding, 215; 16. Batter Pudding, 216; 17. Corn-Starch Pudding, 217; 18. Rice Pudding, 217 ; 19. Curate's Pud ding, 218; 20 Bread Pudding, 219 ; 21. Treacle Pudding, 220 ; 22. Plum Pudding, 221 ; 23. Tapioca and Apples, 223 ; 24. Invalid Pudding, 224 ; 25. SemoUna Pud ding, 226; 26. Batter and Fruit, 226; 27. Cold Cabinet Pudding, 228; 28. Suet Pudding, 229; 29. Yorkshire Pudding, 230.

CHAPTER XV. Dumplings ........

Lesson 1. Hard Dumplings, 282; 2. Norfolk Dumplings, 288.

XIV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

PAOB

Jellies . . . . • ' . . . 234

Lesson 1. Wine Jelly, 234 ; 2. Aspic Jelly, 287 ; 8. Iceland Moss, 241 ; 4. Milk Jelly, 242 ; 5. Ox-Foot Jelly, 244 ; 6. Apple Jelly, 246.

CHAPTER XYII. Creams ........ 250

Lesson 1. Vanilla Cream, 250 ; 2. Strawberry Cream, 252 ; 8. Charlotte Kusse, 258,

CHAPTER XVIIT.

Souffles ........ 256

Lesson 1. Vanilla Souffl6, 255 ; 2. Cheese Souffl6, 258; 8. Potato Souffl6, 260; 4. Omelet Souffl6, 261 ; 5. Savory Omelet, 263 , 6. Cheese Straws, 264.

CHAPTER XIX. Pickles ........ 266

Lesson 1. PIcklo for Meat, 266 ; 2. Pickled Cabbage, 267.

CHAPTER XX.

Cakes . . . . . . . . . 269

Lesson 1. Sultana Cake, 269; 2. German Pound Cake, 270; 8. Plain Cake, 271; 4. Seed Cake, 272; 5, Plum Cake, 278; 6. Corn-Starch Cake. 274; 7. Dough Cake, 275 ; 8. Shrewsbury Cake, 276 ; 9. Kock Cake, 277 ; 10. Gingerbread Nuts, 278.

CHAPTER XXI.

Buns, Biscuits, Rolls, Bread, etc. . . . . . 2Y9

Lesson 1. Buns, 279; 2. Eice Buns, 281; 3. Milk Biscuits, 282; 4. Oatmeal Biscuits, 288; 5. Scones, 284; 6. Short Bread, 285; 7. Milk EoUs, 285; 8. York- shire Tea-Cakes, 286 ; 9. Bread, 287 ; 10. Unfermented Bread, 289,

CHAPTER XXII. SiCK-RooM Cookery ....... 291

Lesson 1. Chicken Panada, 291 ; 2. Beef Essence, 292 ; 3. Cream of Barley, 293 ; 4. A Cup of Arrow-Root and Arrow-Root Pudding, 294 ; 5, Rice- Water, 895; 6. Barley- Water, 296; T. Apple- Water, 297 ; 8. Lemonade, 298 ; 9. Toast

CONTENTS.

XV

PAOB

and Water, 298; 10. Gruel, 299; 11. White- Wine Whey, or Treacle Posset, 300 ; 12. Bran Tea, 800 ; 13. Mutton Broth, 801 ; 14. Mutton Broth, 303; 15. Beef Tea, 804 ; 16. Beef Tea, 305 ; 17. Liebig's Quick Beef Tea, 806 ; 18. Savory Custard, 807.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Canned Meats ....... 308

Lesson 1. Mulligatawny, 809 ; 2. Brown Pur6e, 811 ; 3. Irish Stew, 312 ; 4. Sau- sage Eolle, 313 ; 5. Curried Rabbit, 815; 6. Meat Pie, 31T; 7. Fricassee of Mutton, 318; 8. Eissoles, 320 ; 9. Savory Hash, 322 ; 10. Mince Meat, 824.

Diet in Health and Disease ..... 829

List of Utensils, Materials, etc. ..... 373

Index ......... 375

LESSOl^S m COOKEET,

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY.

OJ^ CLEAJ^IJ^G RANGES, STOVES, AJfD KITCHEM UTEJTSILS.

LESSON FIEST. TO CLEAN A KITCHEN RANGE OR STOVE.

1. Dump the grate, and, with the poker, carefully re- move the clinkers that adhere to the fire-brick.

2. Shovel into a scuttle the ashes, clinkers, and cinders or partially-burned coal.

N. B. — These should be sifted. Throw away the ashes and elinkevs, but save the cinders, to use in kindling fires.

3. Take a brush or wing, and sweep down all the soot from the flues and oven.

N. B. — This should be done every day, when bituminous coal is burned ; but if anthracite coal is used, the flues will not need cleaning oftener than once in two weeks. ^ Wood-stoves should be cleaned as often as once a week,

* Directions for keeping ranges and stoves in order are usually furnished by the dealer ; and as they vary with the construction, they may be appealed to for more specific instructions.

2 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Mix some stove-polish in an earthen dish, with enough water to make it into a smooth liquid.

5. Dip the blacking-brush in the mixture, and cover with it the whole of the range, working from the top downward.

6. When the blacking is dry, rub it all over with a dry brush.

7. Then take another brush and polish the range all over, so as to make it quite bright.

8. ]^ow sweep the soot and dust from the stove and the hearth.

9. Steel handles and bolts may be polished by rubbing with emery-paper, but brass handles and bolts should be polished with both brick-dust and a leather. .

10. To clean the slate or limestone hearth in front of the range, get a flannel and a pail of hot water; put in it some soda, and wash the hearth all over.

11. Then wring the flannel out in hot water and smooth the hearth over, rubbing lightly all in one direction.

12. Black-lead and polish the inside of the fender in the same way as you did the range, and brighten the rim of it with emery-paper.

TO KINDLE A FIRE.

1. Place a few sifted cinders at the bottom of the grate.

2. Then put in some crumpled paper and arrange sticks over it, laying them across each other. For kindling an- thracite coal, hard wood should be added. Charcoal is sometimes used in place of wood, and is better, when it can be afforded.

3. Place a few cinders above the wood, and light the paper at the bottom.

CLEANING KITCHEN UTENSILS. 3

4. When the wood is well on fire, put on a small quan- tity of coal, and wait till it is thoroughly heated and be- ginning to burn before more is added.

LESSON SECOND. TO CLEAN A GAS-STOVE.

1. Lift out the rest at the top.

2. Wash the top of the stove and the rest with a flan- nel dipped in hot water and soda, so as to remove all grease and dirt ; then wring out the flannel, and partially dry the top of the stove.

3. ]S^ow cover with stove-blacking, and polish in the same way as the kitchen range.

N. B. — ^Be careful not to stop up the gas-holes with the stoye-polish.

4. Sweep away the soot and dust, and put the rest back over the stove.

LESSON THIRD TO CLEAN AN IRON SAUCEPAN.

1. Wash the saucepan well in hot water and soda.

N. B. ^AU the black should be removed from the outside and bottom.

2. Soap the palm of one hand, or a brush, and rub the inside of the saucepan.

N.B. — ^In washing any greasy utensil, it is best, if possible, to use the hand instead of a flannel, as the latter retains the grease, and so keeps putting the grease on again, instead of rubbing it off.

3. Mix some sand and powdered soda together, and then dip the soaped hand or brush into it, and rub the in- side of the saucepan until it is quite clean and bright.

LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. E'ow rinse it in water and dry it with a cloth.

5. Clean the lid in the same way.

N. B. — A white enameled stewpan is cleansed in the same way. Great care should be taken to remove all the stains off the white enamel inside.

N. B. — Salt might be mixed with the sand, and used to remove the stains from the enamel.

LESSON FOURTH. TO CLEAN A COPPER STEWPAN.

1. Mix some sand and salt together on a plate — half the quantity of salt to that of sand.

2. Wash the stewpan well in hot water and soda.

3. Soap the hand, or a brush, dip it in the salt and sand, and rub the inside of the pan until all stains are removed and it has become clean and bright.

4. Hinse it out well in the water, dry the inside quickly, and then turn over the pan and clean the copper outside.

5. Eub it in the same way with a soaped hand, or a brush dipped in sand and salt.

N. B. — If there are many stains on it, an old half lemon, or vinegar,

might be used to remove them. N. B. — Only the copper part should be cleaned with lemon or vinegar.

6. Now rinse it again thoroughly, and dry it quickly with a cloth.

CHAPTER II. EOASTIKG, BOILING, BAKIJ^G, FBYIJ^G.

LESSON FIRST. ROASTING.

To Eoast Meat at an open range :

1. Take your joint — say a leg of mutton.

2. See that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape it with a knife, and wipe it over with a clean cloth.

N. B. — As a rule, meat should not be washed in water, as it takes some of the goodness out. If meat has been kept some time, and is not quite fresh, then you might wash it with a little vinegar and water, but it must be well wiped afterward.

3. With a sharp knife cut off the hnucJde-hone from the leg of mutton,

N. B. — ^Put aside the knuckle-bone. It can be used with beef for beef -tea, or be put in the stock-pot ; or the trimmings and one pint of water will make gravy for your joint when done, allowing it to boil while the joint is roasting.

4. Trim off the piece of flarik^ and remove the thick piece of skin from the part where the leg joins the loin.

6 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

(These trimmings must be put aside, as they can be used for other purposes.)

6. E"ow weigh the leg of mutton, so as to find out how long it will take to roast it, as a quarter of an hour is allowed for each pound-weight, and one quarter of an hour besides.

N. B. — ^When you have a joint without bone, such as rolled ribs of beef or topside of beef allow twenty minutes to each pound, as it is all solid meat.

6. Take the leg of mutton, which weighs say seven pounds, and will therefore require two hours to roast.

7. Put the tin oven ^ in front of the fire.

8. See that the dripping-pan is in the oven with the dripping-ladle.

9. Take the hook of the oven, or of the roasting-jack, if you have one, and pass it through the Jcnuckle-end of the leg.

10. Wind up the jack with the key before you put the joint on, so as to make it twist the meat round.

11. Put the joint close to the fire for the Jlrst Jive minutes.

12. After that time, draw it a little back, or it will cook too quickly, and become burnt and driedv

N. B. — Meat that is frozen must be placed some way from the fire at first, and then drawn gradually toward it, as it must thaw slowly, or it may become tough.

' In this country, tin ovens placed before the fire take the place of the English screen and roasting-jack. These ovens are made in various ways, but they all have a door at the back for basting, a hook in the centre from which the meat is suspended, and a dripping-pan in the bottom. A French roasting-jack may take the place of the simple hook, and with this you may proceed with the roasting according to the directions given above. There are stoves and ranges so made that tin ovens for roasting can be securely fastened to the front, and taken away when not in use.

ROASTING AND BOILING. 7

13. Baste the joint every five minutes with the drip- pings that run from it into the pan, using the dripping- ladle.

14. Let it roast for two hours, as its weight is seven pounds.

15. Just before you dish up the joint, you must sprinkle about a saltspoonful of salt over, and then baste it well.

16. "Warm a large dish.

17. Take the hook of the jack and place the joint on the hot dish, and draw out the hook.

18. Pour about a gill of hot stock into the dish. (This makes the gravy, and when the joint is cut, the juices from the meat will add to it.)

19. Cut a piece of demy-paper like a fringe, and put it round the end of the knuckle-bone.

N. B. — The dripping in the pan should be poured into a basin, and when it is cold, there will be under the crust of dripping a good gravy. When the dripping is required for use, it must be carefully removed from the top of the gravy and clarified {see Lesson on " Frying "). Nearly all joints can be roasted in this way. Attention should be paid to the rules given above for joints of meat without bone.

LESSON SECOND. BOILING.

ToBo\\Meat:

1. Give attention to the fi/re, and build it up gradu- ally with small pieces of coal, so as to make it burn clear and bright.

2. You must not have a smoky fire for boiling, or the meat will get smoked. Start with a good fire, and keep it up by adding occasionally small coal, and so prevent smoke as much as possible.

N. B. — You do not require such a clear, bright fire as for roasting. 2

8 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

3. Take a saucepan sufficiently large to hold the joint to be cooked.

4. Fill the saucepan almost full of cold water ^ and put it on the fire to warm.

N. B. — Salt should always be added to the water in the saucepan to make the water taste, unless the meat to be cooked is already salted^ in which case it should be omitted.

5. Now take the joint, say, for example, a piece of the silver-side of heef salted.

6. See that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape it with a knife, and wipe it over with a clean cloth.

N. B. — Meat should not, as a rule, be washed in loaicr, as it takes some of the goodness out. 3feat that has been kept some time, and is not quite fresh, might be washed with vinegar and water^ but it must be well wiped afterward.

N. B. — Salt meat must not be washed with vinegar and water, but only with salt and water.

7. Now weigh the piece of salt heef, so as to find out how long it will take to boil, as ten 7ninutes .slyg allowed for each pound of meat.

N. B. — This rule refers to the boiling of all meat except porTc, which requires fifteen minutes to each pound of meat.

A. — ^In boiling fresh meat to be eaten, the joint should be first plunged into boiling water, in order that the albumen on the outside of the joint may become hardened, and so prevent the escape of the juices of the meat.

B. — The temperature of the water should then be lowered gradually (by adding a small quantity of cold water and drawing the sauce- pan to the side of the fire), and the meat allowed to simmer gently, or it will become tough.

c. — In boiling meat for the purpose of making soup, the meat should be put into cold water, in order to extract all the goodness from it.

D. — The water should be brought gradually to boiling point, then moved to the side of the fire, and left to simmer gently for some length of time.

BOILING. 9

N". B. — Salt meat must be put into toarm wata\ so as to extract a little of the salt before the pores of the skin are closed up. If the meat were- put into boiling watei-, the pores of the skin would be closed, and the meat would be hardened by the salt not being allowed to escape.

8. When the water in the saucepan is warm, take the heef, which weighs say eight pounds (it will therefore take about one hour and twenty minutes\ and put it in the saucepan. There should be only just enough water to cover the joint.

9. Let the water just boil up, and then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for the remainder of the time.

10. As soon as the water comes to the boil, you must take a large spoon and shim it carefully.

N. B. — The scum should be skimmed off directly it rises, or it will boil down again in the meat and spoil it. Scum is the impurity which rises from the meat.

N. B. — Be very careful not to let the meat boil, or it will be hardened and tough.

11. When the meat is sufficiently cooked, take it care- fully out of the saucepan, and put it on a hot dish for serving. Pour about a gill of the liquor (in which it was boiled) round the joint, (This makes the gravy ^ and when the jovnt is cut, the juices from the meat will add to it.)

N. B. — The liquor from boiled meat can always be used for different purposes, and should therefore never be thrown away, but poured into a clean basin and put aside to cool. The fai should be carefully removed from the top of the liqxior while it is cold, before being used. Salt liquor is often used for making pea-soup.

10 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIRD. BAKING MEAT, BREAD, PASTRY, ETC.

To Bake Meat :

1. You must liave a good fire, aud keep it up, adding by degrees small pieces of coal, as the oven is required to be very hot.

N. B. — ^If it is a close range with which you are dealing, you should pull out the damper placed over the oven, in order to draw all the heat of the fire toward the oven. The ventilator ^ of the oven should be closed.

N. B. — In kitchen stoves there is usually either a handle at the top of the oven, to be pulled out for opening the ventilator, or a slide- ventilator at the bottom.

2. Test the heat of the oven by the thermometer, which is fixed in the door of the oven. The heat should rise to 240° Fahr.

3. See that the joint is clean, as directed in the Les- son on "Eoasting," Kote 2. Weigh it, to find out how long it will take to bake, as ten minutes are allowed foi each pound of weight.

N. B. — When you have a joint without bone, you must allow about fif- teen minutes to each pound of weight, as it is solid meat.

4. Take the hot-water tin on which the stand for the meat is placed, lift up the upper tin or tray, and fill the

1 As a rule, American ranges and stoves are not supplied with a separate arrangement for ventilating the ovens. The heat is usually controlled by opening and closing the damper in front of the fire. Ability to manage a range or stove in this respect comes only with experience. But in all our generally-approved ranges and stoves a competent cook can obtain well- baked meat, such as is described in this lesson, by making the oven very hot at first, and after a little, partially or wholly closing the damper, to lessen combustion.

BAKING MEAT. H

under tin lialf full of warm water ; then fit on the upper tin.

N. B. — In one corner of the upper tin is a small hole for the escape of steam. The water must only just reach this hole, and not come into it.

N. B. — ^The water is placed in the tin to prevent the tin and the meat from getting burnt, and so causing a disagreeable smell.

5. Place the stand on the hot-water tin, to raise the joint and prevent it from standing in its own dripj>ing, which would sodden and spoil the meat.

6. 1^0 w take i\iQ joint, which weighs say seven pounds (it will, therefore, take one hour and ten minutes to hake), and put it on the stand. Dredge ^ur over it.

7. Put the tdn, with the meat, in the oven. The oven should be kept very hot for the first ^v^ Tninutes, in order to form a brown crust on the outside of the joint, to keep in the juices of the meat ; after that time the ventilator of the oven should be opened, so as to allow the steam to escape, or the meat would get sodden ed.

N. B. — Meat that is frozen must be gradually warmed to thaw it, be- fore shutting it up in the hot oven, or it will be tough.

8. Baste the joint every fifteen minutes with the drippings that run from the meat into the pan, using the dripping-ladle.

N. B. — Joints that are not very fat must be even more frequently basted, or they will burn. If there is not enough dripping from the meat, a little extra dripping should be put in the pan.

N. B. — Joints that have no fat should be covered with a piece of whity-brown paper which has been spread with butter or dripping ; it will prevent the meat catching too quickly.

9. Turn the joint over occasionally, as the upper side will brown quicker than the under.

12 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

N. B. — ^Potatoes, washed and peeled, or a small suet or dripping and flour pudding {see " Puddings," Lesson 28), or a Yorkshire pudding {see " Puddings," Lesson 29), might be baked under the meat ; but they should be put in only half an hour before the meat is finished.

10. Just before you dish up the joint, sprinkle a salt- spoonful of salt over it, and then baste it well.

11. Serve the joint on a hot dish (as described in the Les- son on '' Koasting," Note 18), and act with regard to the dripping according to N. B. after Note 19.

N. B. — Pastry or bread, etc., should not be baked in the oven at the same time as the meat, for the steam would prevent their baking properly. For baking small patties or tartlets made of puff-paste, the heat of the oven should rise to 300° Fahr. For meat-pies, tarts, etc., the heat should rise to 280°, and be reduced, after a quarter of an hour, to 220°.

LESSON FOURTH. FRYING, AND THE CLAKIFYING OF BUTTEE, FAT, AND DEIPPING.

The principles of Frying :

1. You must have a clear, bright fire.

N. B. — Be very careful it is not smoky.

2. Be careful that the utensil used is very clean ; for if there is anything sticking at the bottom of the pan, it will quickly catch or burn, and so spoil the contents.

3. Clarify all fat {not lard ), dripping, and butter be- fore using them, to remove the impurities from the former, and the buttermilk and other watery substance from the latter.

N.B. — Fat need not be clarified more than once. After using it, always pour it off carefully in a basin, and, when it is cold, remove the sediment from the bottom of the cake otfat. Butter must be clarified each time it is used, to remove all watery substances.

FRYING AND CLARIFYING. 13

4. You must have the fat very hot ; good frying de- pends on the/a^ being properly heated.

5. You should test the heat of the fat by a frimome- ter, if possible. The heat should rise to 345° Fahr. for ordinary frying, and 400° for whitebait,

N. B. — If there is no frimometer, the heat of the/a< may be tested by the look — as fai gets quite still and begins to smoke when it is very hot — or by throwing in a small piece of crarah of bread ; and if it fries directly a light brown, the/a/ is ready for use.

6. Use a deep pan, with plenty oifat, so that anything put in may be entirely covered.

7. You can fry hacon in its own fat / it only requires watching and turning till it is done {see Lesson on " Liver and Bacon," from Note 1 to ^NTote 5).

8. You may fry chops or steaJcs, or slices of ineat^ in an ounce of either clarified dripping or hutter.

9. Melt the fat first, but it does not require to be heated.

10. Be watchful, when the meat is frying, not to allow it to burn ; you should turn it over occasionally.

N. B. — If there is a gridiron, it is much bettor to broil cJiops and steaks^ as it prevents their being greasy {see Lesson on a " Broiled Steak "). For frying Fish, see " Fish," Lessons Nos. 3, 6, 7, and 13. For frying Meat, Rissoles, Potatoes, etc., see "Cooked Meat," Lessons Nos. 2 and 6 ; "Australian Meat," Lesson No. 8 ; " Entrees," Lessons Nos. 4 and 1 1 ; and " Vegetables," Lessons Nos. 3 and 4.

To render down or clarify /a^ .•

1. Take any scraps of cooked or uncooked fat, and cut them up in small pieces.

2. Put the pieces in an old but clean saucepan, and pour in just enough cold water to cover them.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and keep it boiling ;

14 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

it will take about an hour. The lid should be off the saucepan.

4. Stir the/a^ occasionally, to prevent it from burning, or sticking to the bottom of the saucepan.

5. When the water has evaporated, and the pieces of fat are cooked, pour the melted fat through an old sieve into a basin, and, when cold, it can be used for all frying purposes, instead of lard.

To clarify dripjping :

1. Put the dripping in the saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

2. When it boils, pour it into a basin, in which there should be half a pint of cold water.

3. When the dripping is cold, take a knife and cut round the edge, so as to take out the calce oj dripping.

4 Scrape off all the sediment that will be found on the bottom of the cahe^ and wipe it dry with a cloth.

To clarify hutter :

1. Put the quantity of hutter required for present use in a small saucepan, and put it on the fire and let it boil.

2. When the hutter has boiled, take a spoon and re- move the white scum from the top.

3. Then pour the clear 'butter carefully into the pan for use, as below the hutter will be a little more watery suh- stance.

CHAPTER III. THE BE-COOKIJfG OF MEAT.

LESSON FIRST.

HASHED MEAT.*

Ingredients. — One pound of scraps of cold meat. Two small onions. One- half a turnip. One bunch of herbs.^ About a tablespoonful of flour. One dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup. Sippets of bread. Salt and pepper. Half an ounce of butter.

Time required, about two hours ; or^ if the stock fw the gravy is already made, then only half an hour.

To Hash Cold Meat:

1. Take anj remains of cold meat, cut off all the meat from the bone, and cut it into thin shces.

2. Chop the bone in pieces, and put them into a sauce- pan.

3. Peel one onion, and cut it in quarters.

^ The food called " Hash " in this country is more like the English minced meat {see Lesson No. 7, on " Re-cooked Meat ").

' This means a small handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme or marjoram, one or both, and one bay-leaf. The parsley should be washed, the dried herbs placed in the midst of it, and the ends of the parsley should be folded around them, making a bunch about three inches long. Tie with a string, and trim away any leaves that might break oflf if left. This is known among cooks as a " bouquet garni," or " faggot."

16 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Wash and scrape one carroty and cut it in quarters.

5. Peel half a turnip^ and cut it in half.

6. Wash a sjprig of parsley^ and dry it on a cloth.

7. Take one hay-leaf^ one sprig of marjoram and thyme, and the parsley, and tie them tightly together with a piece of string.

8. Put the herbs and vegetables into the saucepan with the bones, and cover them with cold water.

9. Put tlie saucepan on the fire, and, when it boils, add pepper and salt^ according to taste.

10. Kow put the lid on, and move the saucepan to the side of the fire, to stew gently for one hour^ or one hour and a half ; watch it, and skim it occasion- ally.

11. Take a small onion, peel it, and cut it in slices.

12. Put half am, ownce of butter into a frying-pan.

13. Put the pan on the fire, and, when the butter is melted, add the sliced onion, and let it fry a nice brown.

14. Shake the pan occasionally, to prevent the slices of onion from sticking to the bottom of the pan and burning.

15. When the onion is sufficiently browned, strain off the butter, and put the onion on to a plate.

16. Wheti the bones have stewed long enough, strain off the liquor into a basin.

17. Wash out the saucepan, and pour back the liquor.

18. Put a tablespoonful offiour into a small basin.

19. Add a tablespoonful of the liquor to the flour, and stir it into a ^m.oo\h paste.

20. Stir ihi^ paste gradually into the liquor in the sauce- pan.

21. Add the browned onion and a dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 17

22. Pat the saucepan on the fire, and stir the 5^1^^ until it boils and thickens.

23. Let it boil for two or three minutes^ until the flour is cooked.

N. B. — Be careful to stir the sauce smoothly while it boils, or it will be lumpy.

24. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and, when it is off the boil, lay in the pieces of meat^ to warm through.

N. B. — Do not let the sauce boil while the meat is in it, or the meat will get hard and tough.

25. Cut a thin slice of tread into square pieces.

26. Cut these square pieces in half, cornerwise, making the pieces into triangles.

27. Put one ounce of clarified drijyping {see Lesson on " Frying ") in a frying-pan, to melt.

28. When the dripping is quite hot, put in the sippets of hread, and let them fry a light brown.

29. Turn them, so that they will get browned on each side.

30. Put a piece of kitchen-paper ^ on a plate, and, when the sipjpets are fried, turn them on to the paper to drain off the grease.

N. B. — If liked, the bread could be toasted before the fire, instead of fried ; in which case it should be cut into sippets after it is toasted.

31. For serving, put the slices of vuat on a hot dish in the centre, strain the sauce over them, and put the sippets of hread round the edge of the dish.

' Kitchen-paper is unsized white paper, such as is used for wall-paper. It is common in English kitchens, and very convenient for many purposes.

18 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SECOND.

MEAT FRITTERS.

Ingredients. — Slices of cold meat. Six ounces of flour. One tablespoon- ful of salad oil. Two eggs. Dripping for frying.

2'bne requiredy about half an hour {and one hour for the hatter to rise).

To make " Meat Fritters " — i. e., meat fried in batter :

1. Put six ounces of flour and half a saltrsjpoonful of salt into a basin.

2. Add a tablesjpoonful of salad oily and mix the flour into a smooth paste.

N. B. — Be careful that the oil is sweet. One ounce of melted butter can be used instead.

3. !N"ow stir in smoothly, by degrees, half a jpint of tepid water. Be careful that there are no lumps.

4. Break two eggs ; put the whites on a plate. (The yolks should be put in a cup, as they will not be required for present use.)

5. Sprinkle a quarter of a salt-sjpoonful of salt over the whites of the eggs, and whip them to a stiff froth with a knife.

6. Stir the whipped whites of the eggs lightly into the latter.

N. B. — In winter, clean snow might be used in the batter, instead of the whites of eggs.

N. B. — This batter might be made without the whites of eggs, in which case'it should be mixed with half a pin't of beer, instead of the water ; but the batter made with beer will not rise as much as when eggs are used.

N. B. — ^The beer will not taste after the batter is fried.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 19

7. Stand the hatter aside for one hour to rise, or until required for frying / but it should not stand longer than two hours.

8. Put half a pound of clarified dripping (see Lesson on " Frying " ) into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat.

9. Take some cold meat, and cut it up into thin slices.

N. B. — Cold boiled or roast pork, or boiled bacon, is very nice fried in batter.

10. When the latter has risen, and the fritters are re- quired for use, stir the hatter lightly with a spoon, so as to be sure that there are no lumps settled at the bottom.

11. When the dripping is quite hot and smoking, take the slices of oneat, dip them in the hatter so as to quite cover them, and then drop them into the hot fat.

N. B. — Do not put in too many slices at a time, as they should not touch each other.

12. Turn them over, so that they will fry to a nice brown on both sides.

13. Put a piece of Tcitchen-paper on a plate.

14. As the fritters are fried, take them carefully out of the fat with 2^ perforated spoon, and put them on the paper, to drain off the grease.

N. B. — Be careful to skim the fat from time to time, or the little loose pieces of batter will bum, and spoil the fat.

N. B. — Slices of apple or orange can be fried in this batter in the same way, only that the batter should be sweetened, and sugar sprinkled over the fritters when they are fried.

N. B. — ^Fish can be fried in batter the same way, only that the batter is usually made with beer, instead of white of egg.

15. For serving, turn \kiQ fritters on to a hot dish.

20 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIED.

GOBLET PIE.

Ingredients. — Any scraps of cold meat. Two tablespoonfuls of chopped suet, two of moist sugar, two of currants, two of plums, and two of chopped apples. A quarter of a pound of flour. A quarter of a tea- spoonful of baking-powder. One ounce of dripping.

7^me required^ about three-quarters of an hour.

To make "Goblet Pie":

1. Take any scraps of cold meat (even the smallest scraps, that would not do for anything else), put them on a board, ^ and chop them up as finely as possible. (There should be about two tahles]podnfuU of chojyped meat.)

2. Take about two ounces of suet, put it on a board, cut away the sMn, and chop it up very finely. (There should be about two taMes^oonfuls)

3. Peel two small apples, cut out the core, and chop them up finely. (There should be about two tablespoon- fuls.)

4. Take two tablespoonfuls of plums, stone them, and chop them in small pieces.

6. Wash two tablespoonfuls of currants, dry them in a cloth, and pick them over.

6. Put all* these ingredients into a basin with two table- spoonfuls of moist sugar, and mix them all well together with a spoon.

^ When only small quantities of things are to be made fine, it is very con- venient to place them upon a board, and, taking a sharp knife, hold down the free end of the blade with the left hand, and chop by moving the handle rapidly up and down with the right hand. Some cooks chop in this way upon the table, but a board is preferable.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. ^1

7. Turn the mixture into a small pie-dish.

8. Put a quarter of a potmd of flour into a basin, and mix into it a few grains of salt^ and a quarter of a tea- spoorful of haTcing-powder.

9. Take one ounce of clarified dripping, and rub it well and lightly into the floicr with your hands, until it resembles sifted hread-crumhs.

10. Add to it sufficient water to mix it into a ^ii^ jpaste.

11. Flour a board, and turn the paste out on it.

12. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste to the shape of the pie-dish, only a little larger, and to about a quarter of an inch in thickness.

13. Wet the edge of the pie-dish with water.

14. Take a knife, dip it in flK)icr, and cut a strip of the paste the width of the edge of the pie-dish, and place it round the edge of the dish.

15. Cut this strip of paste from round the edge of the paste, leaving the centre piece rather larger than the top of the pie-dish.

16. Wet the edge of th.Q paste with water.

17. Take the remaining piece of paste and place it over the pie-dish, pressing the edges together with your thumb.

N. B. — ^Be very careful not to break the paste.

18. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and trim off all the rough edges of \hQ paste round the edge of the dish.

19. Take a knife, and with the back of the blade make little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing the paste firmly with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place.

20. Make a little hole with the knife in the centre of the pie, to let the steam out while the pie is baking.

21. Put the pie into the oven (the heat should rise to 220°), to bake for half an hour.

22 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON POUTITH.

CUERY.

Ingredients. — Scraps of cold meat. Two ounces of clarified dripping, or butter. Two apples. One onion. One dessertspoonful of curry-powder. Salt.

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour.

To make a " Curry " :

1. Put two ounces of clarified dripping, or "butter, into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat.

2. Take one onion, peel it, put it on a board, and chop it up as finely as possible.

3. When the dripping is quite hot, put in the chopped onion to brown. Be careful it does not burn.

4. Shake the saucepan occasionally, to prevent the onion from sticking to the bottom.

6, Take the cold meat and cut it up into small pieces.

6. Peel one small apple, take out the core, and chop it up very finely on a board.

7. When the onion is sufficiently brown, strain it ofi^, and pour the dripping back into the saucepan.

N. B. — ^Put the browned onion on a plate.

8. E'ow put the pieces of cold meat into the saucepan, and let them brown on both sides.

9. Add one dessertspoonful of curry -powder, the chopped apple, and a little salt, according to taste.

10. Now pour in half a pint of cold water, and put back the hrowned onion.

N. B. — If the onion had been left in while the meat was browning, it would have got burnt.

11. Stir smoothly and carefully until it boils, and then move it to the side of the fire, to simmer for half an hour.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 23

12. The lid should be off the saucepan, as the sauce is to reduce.'

13. For serving, we take the meat out of the saucepan, and put it on a hot dish and pour the sauce over it.

N. B. — Boiled rice should be served with the Curry {see "Vegeta- bles," Lesson 13).

LESSON FIPTH.

Ingredients. — Scraps of cold meat. One small onion. Pepper and salt.

One and a half pound of potatoes. One ounce of butter. One-half a

gill of milk. Time required, about an hour and a half.

To make " Shepherd's Pie " :

1. Take one and a half pound of potatoes, wash them, and boil them as described {see " Yegetables," Lesson No. 1).

N. B. — This quantity of potato will cover a quart pie-dish. N. B. — Any remains of cold potatoes should be used, instead of boiling fresh ones.

2. Put one ounce of butter and half a gill of milk into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

3. Put the boiled potatoes into another saucepan, and mash them up with a fork or spoon.

4. When the milJc boils, pour it into the mashed pota- toes, and stir them into a smooth paste.

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let the potatoes just boil. Be careful they do not bum.

6. Take any scraps of cold meat, cut them in small pieces, and put them in a pie-dish in layers.

1 To reduce a sauce, is to boil it down to the requisite thickness.

24 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. If there is not mucli fat with the Tneat^ mix with it a few slices of ^ork-fat.

8. Take one small onion^ peel it, and chop it up as finely as possible on a board.

9. Sprinkle each layer of meat with plenty of jpejpj^er and salt, and a little of the chojyped onion.

10. Fill the dish half full of cold water.

N. B, — If there is any cold gravy, it would, of course, be better than

the water. N. B. — The pie-dish should be quite full of meat, and rather heaped

in the centre, so as to raise the crust of potato.

11. Take the mashed potato and put it over the top of the meat J smoothing it over neatly with a knife.

12. Take a fork, and mark all over the top of \hQ potato.

N. B. — If liked, the mashed potato might be mixed with half its weight of flour into a dough, to make a more substantial crust ; it must then be rolled out with a rolling-pin, like pastry.

13. Put the pie-dish into the oven, or into a tin oven in front of the fire, for half an hour, to brown the crust of potato and warm the m^eat through.

LESSON SIXTH. FRIED RISSOLES.

Ingredients. — Scraps of cold meat, two ounces. Two tablespoonfuls of chopped suet ; two of bread-crumbs ; two of chopped parsley. One tablespoonful of chopped marjoram and thyme. Two eggs. Crumb of bread. Salt and pepper. Use of dripping for frying. (This quantity makes about eight.)

Time required^ about half an liour.

To make " Kissoles " with cold meat : 1. Put about half 2^ pound of clarified drippvng into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat.

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 25

2. Take some scraps of cold meat^ and chop them up as finely as possible on a board. When chopped, there should be about two tahlespoonfuls,

3. Cut away the skin from two ounces of suet^ put it on a board, and chop it up as finely as possible. There should be two tablespoonfuls.

4. Grate some crumbs of hread on to a piece of paper.

N. B. — More than tioo tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs will be required, as the rissoles should be dipped in bread-crumbs before they are fried.

5. Wash two or three sjyrigs of jparsley^ and dry it in a cloth.

6. Chop it up finely on a board. There should be two tablesjpoonfiols,

7. Take a sprig of marjoram and a sprig of thyme^ take away the stalks, and rub the leaves through a strainer, or chop them up finely on a board.

N. B. — The stalks of the herbs are bitter to the taste, and can therefore only be used for flavoring, and not for eating.

8. Put the meat^ suet^ and two tablespoonfuls of bread- crumbs, into a basin, and mix them together.

9. ^ow add the herbs and a teaspoonful of salt.

N. B. — If liked, a little chopped onion^ or chopped lemon-peel^ might be added.

10. Break one egg into the basin, and mix all together lightly.

11. Take a board, flour it, and turn the mixture on to it.

12. Flour your hands, to prevent the mixture from sticking.

13. Form the mixture into little balls, and sprinkle a \\ii\Qfiour over them.

26 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

14. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it very slightly with a knife.

15. Put the halls into the egg^ 2xA ^^^ them well all over.

16. E'ow put them into the hread-crumhsy and cover them well, but not too thickly.

N. B. — Be careful to finger them as little as possible.

17. Put the rissoles into a frying-basket, a few at a time, as they must not touch each other.

18. When ih^fat in the saucepan is quite hot and smok- ing, put in the frying-basket, and let the rissoles irj a pale brown.

19. If there is not sufficient yat to cover the rissoles, shake the basket occasionally, that they may get fried on all sides alike.

N. B. — If there is no frying-basket, put the rissoles into the fat with a spoon, and then turn them over, so as to get them equally browned.

20. Put a piece of kitchen-paper on a plate.

21. When the rissoles are fried, turn them carefully or to the paper to drain off the grease,

22. For serving, put them on a hot dish.

LESSON SEVENTH.

MINCED MEAT.

Ingredients. — Scraps of cold meat. One tablespoonful of mushroom cat- sup. Pepper and salt. Half a pound of rice, or one pound of potatoes.

Time required to cook the potatoes, half an hour ; to cook the mince, five minutes.

To make a " Mince " of cold meat :

1. If the mi/riGe is served with rice, see Lesson on

THE RE-COOKING OF MEAT. 27

" Rice " ; or if with mashed potatoes, see " Vegetables," Lesson N"©. 2.

2. Put any scraps of cold meat on a board, and mince them lip with a sharp knife.

3. Put the m^inced jrieat into a saucepan, with about a tdblespoonful (or enough to moisten the mince) of mush- room catsup, or some gravy, and season it with pepper and salt to taste.

4. Put the saucepan on the fire, to let the mince just warm through.

5. Stir it occasionally, to prevent the meat from stick- ing to the bottom of the saucepan.

6. For serving, turn the mince on to a hot dish, with a border of boiled rice or mashed potato.

CHAPTER IV. EJVTBEES.

LESSON FIRST.

CUKEY.

Ingredients. — One rabbit or chicken. Half an ounce of coriander seed. Two cloves of garlic. One dessertspoonful of turmeric. Eight berries of red pepper. Two inches of the stick of cinnamon. Six cardamomums. A small piece of green ginger, the size of a chestnut. Five small onions. Salt. Three ounces of fresh butter. Half a pint of cream or good milk. The juice of half a lemon.

Time required, about two Jiours.

To make Curry :

1. Take a rabbit (which has been skinned and properly prepared for cooking), and pnt it on a board.

2. Cut it lip in the same way as for carving, taking care that the pieces are nearly all of one size.

N. B. — Chicken, veal, and other meats would serve the purpose for curry as well as rabbit.

3. Take a quarter of an ounce of coriander seed, put it into the mortar, and pound it very finely with a pestle.

4. Take the pounded seed out of the mortar, and put it on a piece of paper. "We must scrape out the mortar, BO that none be lost.

entriSes. 29

5. Take two cloves of garlic, peel them with a sharp knife, and place them in the mortar.

6. Also put into the mortar a dessertspoonful of tur- meric.

7. Add eight lerries of red pepper and one inch of the stick of cinnamon.

8. Put in four cardamomums.

9. Take a piece of green ginger about the size of a chestnut, and slice it very thin.

10. Take three small onions, and peel off the two outer skins.

11. Divide the onions into quarters, and place them and the sliced ginger in the mortar.

12. Pound up all these spices and the onions as fine as possible with the pestle.

13. Now add to them the pounded coriander seed, and mix them all up together.

14. Turn this pounded mixture out of the mortar into a half -pint basin.

15. Take a teacitpful of cold water and rinse out the mortar, and then pour the water on to the pounded mix- ture in the basin.

16. Take the pieces of rabbit and wash them in cold water.

17. Take them out of the cold water and place them on a sieve to drain.

18. Take a stewpan, and put in it three ounces of fresh butter.

19. Put the stewpan on the fire to melt the butter.

N. B. — Be careful that it does not burn.

20. Take two small onions and peel off the two outer skins.

30 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

21. Divide the onions in half down the centre, and cut them up so that the slices are in half -circles.

22. Put these sliced onions into the melted butter, add also two cardamomums, and let them fry a pale brown.

23. Then take the onions carefully out of the stewpan with a slice, and place them on a piece of whity-brown paper, to drain off the grease.

24. Now take the basin of spices, and add as much cold water as will make the basin three parts full.

26. Add to the basin of spices a small dessertsjpoonful of salt,

26. ]^ow pour all the contents of the basin into the melted butter in the stewpan, to cook for about twenty minutes, stirring well all the time with a wooden spoon.

N. B. — To test when the spices are sufficiently cooked, you should smell them, and if they are quite done, no particular spice should predominate.

27. Now place the pieces of rabbit in the stewpan to brown.

28. Turn them occasionally, so that they will get brown on all sides.

29. Now pour into the stewpan a teacupful of cold water, to make the meat tender.

30. Put the lid on the stewpan, and let it all cook stead- ily for about an hour.

31. Watch it carefully, and stir it perpetually.

N. B. — A good deal of stirring is required.

32. Add, by degrees, a teacupful of cold water, to wash down the bits of spice which will stick to the sides of the stewpan.

33. Also add, by degrees, half a pint of cream or good

ENTRIES. 31

milk (water might even be used instead), and mix it well together with a wooden spoon.

N. B. — ^You must be careful that no pieces of meat, or spices, stick to the bottom of the pan.

34. Now take half the fried onions^ chop them up finely, and add them to the curry.

35. Then put into the mortar five coriander seeds and one inch of the stich of cinnamon, and pound them well together with a pestle.

36. When the rabbit is quite done, take the pieces out with a fork, arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and pour the gravy round.

37. Then sprinkle over the rabbit the remainder of the fried onions, and the pounded cinnamon and coriander seeds.

38. Take a fresh lemon, cut it in half, and squeeze all the juice of it through a strainer over the rabbit.

N. B. — Boiled rice should be served with the above Curry {see Les- son on " Rice ").

LESSON SECOND.

QUENELLES OF VEAL.

Ingredients. — One pound of the fillet of veal. Two ounces of butter. Two and three-quarters ounces of flour. Three-fourths of a pint of second white stock. Two eggs. One dozen button mushrooms. One gill of cream. One teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Salt.

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour.

To make Quenelles of Veal :

1. Put one ounce of 'butter and two ounces of fijour into a stewpan, and mix them well together with a wooden spoon. g

32 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Add one gill of second white stock. (See Lesson on " Stock.")

3. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir well until it boils and thickens, and leaves the sides of the stewpan.

4. ]^ow pour this mixture, or jpanada (as it is called), on to a plate.

5. Stand the plate aside to cool.

6. Take one pound of the fillet of mat and put it on a board.

7. Take a sharp knife, cut away all the skin and fat, and cut up the meat into small pieces.

8. Put these pieces of i^eal into a mortar, and pound them well with the pestle.

9. Place a wire sieve over a plate ; take this pounded meat and pass it through the sieve, rubbing it with a wooden spoon.

10. When \hQjpanada on the plate is cold, put half of it and one ^gg in the mortar, and pound it to a cream.

11. Then add half the w.eat^ and salt and pejrper to taste, and pound all well together with the pestle.

12. Put into the mortar the remainder of the panada, and break in another eg^^ and add the rest of the meat,

13. Pound these well together again with the pestle.

14. Turn the mixture from the mortar into a basin. 16. Take a saute-pan and butter it inside.

16. Take a dessertspoon and fill it with the mixture, shaping it to the form of an oval with a knife, which you must dip occasionally into hot water, to prevent the mix- ture from sticking.

17. Take another dessertspoon and dip it into boiling water.

18. Scoop the quenelle from the first spoon into the sec- ond spoon, and put it into the saute-pan, and continue doing this till you have used up all the mixture.

ENTREES. 33

19. Now make the sauce to be served with the quenelles,

20. Take a stewpan, and put in half an oance of butter and half an ounce of flour.

21. Put the stewpan on the fire, and mix them together with a wooden spoon.

22. Take one dozen of hidton mushrooms^ cut off the ends of the stalks, and wash them well in cold water.

23. Take them out of the water, put them upon a board, and peel them carefully with a sharp knife.

24. Pour half a 'pint of second white stock into the mix- ture in the stewpan, and add the mushroom peelings for flavoring.

25. Stir well until it boils and thickens.

26. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire, with the lid half on, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour.

27. Then take a spoon, and skim off all the huUer from the top of the sauce.

28. Now stir into the sauce one gill of cream^ and stand the stewpan aside to keep warm, until required for use.

29. Take the peeled mushrooms and put them in a stew- pan, with a piece of butter the size of a chestnut.

30. Squeeze over them a teasjpoonful of lemon^uice^ and pour in one tdblespoonful of cold water,

31. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to the boil.

32. Now pour boiling water carefully into the saute- pan, enough to cover the quenelles,

N. B. — Be careful to pour the water very gently into the saute-pan, or the quenelles will be spoiled.

33. Put the saute-pan on the fire, to poach the quenelles for ten minutes.

N. B. — ^Watch them, and occasionally turn them carefully with a spoon.

34 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

34. When the quenelles are done, lift them out of the water, and lay them on a cloth to drain off the water.

35. For serving, arrange them tastily in a circle on a hot dish.

36. Fill in the centre of the dish with the hoiled mush- rooms.

N. B. — Peas {see " Vegetables," Lesson No. 9), or spinach {see " Vege- tables," Lesson No. 8), may be served with them instead, according to taste.

37. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pour the sauce through a strainer over the quenelles.

LESSON THIRD.

BRAISED FILLETS OF BEEF.

Ingredients. — One pound of fillet of beef. A piece of the fat of bacon. A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. Two young carrots. One onion, and one-fourth of a stick of celery. A pint of good stock.

Time required {the stock should he made the day hefore\ about one hour and a half.

To Lard and Braise Fillets of Beef:

1. Take one pound of fillet of beef (cut from the un- der-cut of the sirloin), and put it on a board.

2. Take a sharp knife, and cut the beef into small Yomidi fillets, to about the size of the top of a coffee-cup, and about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and trim them neatly.

3. Take a strip of the fat of hacon (nearest the rind is best, as it is harder), about one inch wide.

4. Take a sharp knife, and cut up this piece of hacon into little strips, an inch long and one-eighth of an vach in width and thickness.

6. Take each fillet, and hold it in a clean cloth.

entr:6es. 35

6. Take a larding-needle, with a little strip of hacon in it, and lard each fillet neatly in regular rows, until one side of thej^ZZ^^ is entirely covered with strips of hacon.

7. When you have larded all the fillets, lay them care- fully in a clean saute-pan.

8. Add a houquet garni, consisting of a little jparsley, thyme, and a hay-leaf, all tied neatly and tightly together.

9. Take two young ca/rrots, scrape them clean with a knife, and cut them in halves.

10. Take an onion and peel it carefully.

11. Add these vegetables, and a quarter of a stick of celery, to thQ fillets in the saute-pan.

12. Now pour in a pint of good stock, put the saute-pan on the fire, and baste the fillets continually.

N. B. — The stock must not cover the meat.

13. Take a piece of kitchen-paper, and cut a round to the size of the saute-pan and butter it.

14. As soon as the stock boils, lay this round of paper on the fillets in the saute-pan.

N. B. — ^This paper is to prevent the meat browning too quickly.

15. Lift the paper every now and then, when you re- quire to baste the fillets.

16. Put the saute-pan into a very hot oven, to brown the fillets.

17. Let the pint of stock reduce to a half -glaze, which will take about half an hour.

18. Watch it, frequently raise the paper, and baste the fillets with the stock.

N. B. — ^If the fillets are not brown enough, take a salamander ^ and heat it in the fire.

^ A salamander is a tile-shaped piece of iron, which can be lifted by a handle, like the cover of a stove.

36 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

19. Hold the salamander over the fillets, to brown them a nice color.

20. For serving, take the fillets carefully out of the saute-pan, and arrange them on a hot dish in a circle, on a border of mashed potatoes. {See " Vegetables," Lesson ISTo. 2.)

N. B. — You must stand this dish on the hot plate, or near the fire, to keep warm, until the sauce is ready.

21. Put the saute-pan on the fire, and let the sauce re- duce to a half-glaze.

22. Then strain the glaze round the meat.

N. B. — The centre of the dish may be filled in with mixed vegetables — i. e., peas and beans, which should be cut in the shape of dice, car- rots and turnips, cut with a cutter to the size of the peas.

LESSON FOURTH.

MUTTOJSr CUTLETS.

Ingredients. — Three pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton. Bread-crumbs. One egg. Salt and pepper. Three ounces of clarified butter.

Time required^ about three-quarters of an hxmr.

To Fry Mutton Outlets :

1. Take three jpounds of the best end of the neck of mutton, and put it on a board.

2. Take a saw and saw off the end of the Tib-lone, leaving the cutlet-hone three inches in length.

3. Saw off the chme-hone, which lies at the back of the cutlets.

4. Joint each cutlet with the chopper.

5. Take a sharp knife, and cut off each cutlet close to the bone.

ENTRIES. 37

6. Take a cutlet-bat, wet it, and beat each, cutlet to about half an inch in thickness.

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch of the rib-hone bare.

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape.

N. B. — ^The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat may be clarified and used as dripping.

9. Take a wire sieve and stand it over a piece of paper.

10. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the sieve.

11. Take one Qgg and beat it on a plate with a knife.

12. Season the cutlets on both sides with pepper and salt.

13. Lay them in the egg^ and Qgg them well all over with a brush.

14. Then put them in the bread-crumbs, and cover them well.

N. B — Be careful to finger them as little as possible, and lift them by the bare bone.

15. Take a saute-pan, and pour in it one ounce of melt- ed clarified .butter or lard;- or clarified dripping.

16. Now lay in the cutlets, with the bones to the centre of the saute-pan.

17. Pour over them two more ounces of melted clarified butter or fat.

18. Now put the saute-pan on a very quick fire for about seven minutes.

19. "Watch and turn the cutlets when they have become a light-brown, so as to fry them the same color on both sides.

20. Place a piece of -whity-brown paper on a plate.

21. When the cutlets are done, take them carefully out

38 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

with a fork, and lay them on the paper on the plate, to drain off the grease.

N. B. — Be careful to stick the fork into the fat, and not into the meat, or the gravy will run out.

22. For serving, arrange them nicely in a dish, in a cir- cle, one leaning over the -other. The centre may be filled with any vegetable^ according to taste.

LESSON FIPTH.

CHAUD FROID OF CHICKEN.

Ingredients. — One chicken. One half-pint of white sauce. One gill of cream. Two tablespoonfuls of aspic jelly. Chopped pieces of aspic jelly. Mixed vegetables. One gill of mayonnaise sauce.

Time required, about one hour and three-quarters.

To make Chaud Froid of Chicken :

1. Put half a pmt of white soAice {see " Sauces," Les- son "No. 1) in a stewpan.

2. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and stir well with a wooden spoon, till the sauce is reduced to one gill.

3. Then add one gill of cream, and stir again, until it just boils.

4. Take a tammy sieve and stand it over a basin.

5. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pass the contents through the sieve into the basin.

6. When it is all passed through into the basin, stir in two tablespoonfuls of aspic jelly (see " Jelly," Lesson 'No. 2).

N. B. — This aspic jelly should be made with chicken as well as veal.

7. Take a cold roast chicken (see " Trussing a Fowl for Boasting "), and put it on a board.

N. B. — The chicken must be young, as the flesh should be as white as possible.

ENTRlfiES. 39

8. Cut it up in the same way as for carving, taking care that the pieces are all of one size. Remove the skin, and neatly trim each piece.

9. Dip these pieces of chicken in the sauce, covering them well over.

10. Stand a drainer over a dish.

11. Place the pieces of chicken on the drainer, and let them remain until the sauce is set over each piece.

12. For serving, arrange the pieces of chicken on chopped as'piG jelly {see " Jelly," Lesson No. 2), in a circle on a dish.

13. The centre should be filled in with mixed vegeta- bles— i. e., cooked potato, carrot, and heet-root, stamped out with a vegetable-cutter; cooked French peas, cut to the shape of dice ; and green peas — all mixed together, with two tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise soMce. (See " Sauces," Lesson JS'o. 3.)

LESSON SIXTH.

VEAL CUTLETS.

Ingredients. — ^Three pounds of the best end of the neck of veal. Savory thyme. The rind of half a lemon. One bunch of parsley. One ounce of butter. One teaspoonf ul of lemon-juice. One egg. Pepper and salt. Bread-crumbs. One-half pound of bacon for rolls.

2\me required, about one-half hour.

To Broil FmZ Outlets:

1. Take t\\YQe pounds of the best end of the Tiech of veal, or veal cutlet, and put it on a board.

2. Take a saw and saw off the end of the rib-bone, leaving the cutlet-hone three inches in length.

40 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

3. Saw off the chme-lone, which lies at the back of the cutlets,

4. Joint each cutlet with the chopper.

5. Take a sharp knife and cut off each cutlet close to the bone, so as to get an extra cutlet between each bone.

6. Take a cutlet-bat and beat each cutlet to about half an inch in thickness.

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch of the rib-bone bare.

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape.

N. B. — The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat may be clarified, and used for dripping.

9. Take a little savory thyme^ put it on a board, and chop it up very fine. (The thyme, when chopped, should fill a salt-spoon.)

10. Take half a lemon and peel it very thin.

11. Chop this lemon-rind up very fine.

12. Wash a small bunch of parsley in cold water, and dry it in a cloth.

13. Chop up this parsley very fine on a board.

14. Put one ounce of hutter on a kitchen-plate, and put it in the oven to melt.

16. When the butter is melted, add a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and the chopped thyme^ lemoro^ind^ and par-

16. Add one egg, and pepper and salt to taste, and beat all up together with a knife.

17. Take a wire sieve and stand it over a piece of paper.

18. Eub some crumb of bread through the sieve.

19. Dip each cutlet into the plate, and cover it all over with the mixture.

ENTRIES. 41

20. Then put it in the Iread-crumhs^ and cover it well.

N. B. — ^You should finger them as little as possible.

21. Take a gridiron and hold it to the fire to warm.

22. Arrange the cutlets on the gridiron.

23. Place the gridiron in front of a bright fire, but not too near, or the hread-crumbs will burn before the cutlets are sufficiently cooked.

24. Then let them broil for about ten minutes, and when they have become a pale brown on one side, turn the grid- iron, so as to brown them on both sides alike.

25. For serving, arrange the cutlets on a wall of mashed potatoes {see " Vegetables," Lesson E'o. 2), in a circle on a hot dish, one leaning over the other ; the centre may be filled in with rolls of bacon {see below), and with a thick brown sauce {see " Sauces," Lesson l!^o. 2),

For Bolls of B(won :

1. Cut some thin slices of hacon, about two inches wide and about four inches in length.

2. Koll up these strips of bacon.

3. Take a skewer and run it through the centre of each roll of bacon.

4. Place this skewer, with the bacon, on a tin, and put it in the oven for six minutes.

6. For serving, take the rolls of bacon off the skewer, and arrange them in the centre of the cutlets, as described above.

42 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SEVENTH.

FKICASSEE OF CHICKEN.

Ingredients. — One young chicken. One small carrot. One-half an onion. One stick of celery. Two or three sprigs of parsley. One sprig of thyme. One bay-leaf. Two cloves. Six pepper-corns. One blade of mace. One and a half pint of second white stock. One ounce of but- ter. One and a half ounce of flour. Two dozen of button mushrooms. Fried bread. One gill of cream.

Time required, about one hour and a half.

To make a Fricassee of Chicken :

1. Take a young chicken, clean it, draw it {see " Truss- ing a Fowl for Roasting," from ITote 1 to IN'ote 12), and skin it.

2. Cut the chicken into joints, and put them into a basin of cold water for about ten minutes.

3. After that time, take the pieces of chicken out of the water and dry them in a clean cloth.

4. Take one small carrot, wash and scrape it clean, and cut it into slices.

6. Take half an onion and peel it.

6. Take one stick of celery and two or three sprigs of parsley, and wash them in cold water.

7. Put these vegetables into a -stewpan.

8. Add to them one sprig of thyme, one hay-leaf, two cloves, six pepper-corns, and one hlade of mace.

9. Xow put in the pieces of chicken, and add one pint and a half of second white stock.

10. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil gently for about half an hour.

11. When the pieces of chicken are quite done, take them out ol the stewpan, wash them in a basin of cold water, and dry them in a cloth.

ENTREES. 43

12. Strain the stock from the stewpan into the basin.

13. Take two dozen 'button mushrooms, cut off the ends of the stalks, wash them in cold water, and peel them.

14. Take the peeled mushrooms, and put them into the stewpan, with a piece of huUer the size of a chestnut.

15. Squeeze over them a teasjpoonful of lemon-juice, and pour in a toMesjpoonful of cold wate7\

16. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to the boil.

17. Then take the stewpan off the fire and turn them on to a plate.

18. Wash out the stewpan, and then put in it one ounce of butter.

19. Put the stewpan on the fire to melt the butter.

20. Then add one amd a half ounces of flour to the hut- ter, stirring it well with a wooden spoon.

21. Now remove all the grease from the chichen stocJc, and add it and the trimmings of the mushrooms to the stewpan, and stir well until it boils.

22. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it boil gently for twenty minutes. The cover of the stew- pan should be half on.

23. After that time, take a spoon and carefully skim off all the butter that will have risen to the top of the sauce.

24. ISTow put the stewpan over the fire to boil, and let the sauce reduce to about one pint, and then add one gill of cream.

25. Take the pieces of chicTcen and put them in anoth- er stewpan, with the two dozen button mushrooms.

26. When the sauce is sufficiently reduced, strain it over the chicken.

27. Then stand the stewpan in a saucepan of hot water over the fire, until the chicken is quite hot.

44 LESSONS m COOKERY.

28. For serving, arrange the fricassee of chicken on a hot dish, with fried bread (as described in " Yegetables," Lesson No. 7, ISTote 13 to Note 17).

FOR COLD CHICKEN.

Ingredients. — Some cold chicken, say half of one. One-half a carrot. One- fourth of an onion. One-half a stick of celery.' A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf. One gill of cream. One clove. Three pepper-corns. One-half a blade of mace. One pint of good white stock. One-half an ounce of butter. One ounce of flour. One dozen button mushrooms. Fried bread. Salt.

Time required^ about forty minutes.

To make a Fricassee of Cold Chicken :

1. Take some cold roast or boiled chicken.

2. Cut away all the meat from the bone, and cut it up into neat pieces.

3. Put one pint of good white stock {see Lessen on *• Stock ") and the chicken-bones into a stewpan.

4. Wash half a carrot, scrape it, and cut it into slices.

5. Peel a quarter of an onion.

6. Wash half a stick of celery in cold water.

7. Put these vegetables into the stewpan.

8. Add to them a bouquet garni (consisting of a little parsley, one sprig of thyme, and one bay-leaf, tied tightly together), one clove, three pepper-corns, and half a blade of mace.

9. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let it boil for twenty minutes.

10. After that time, strain the stock into a basin.

11. Take one dozen button mushrooms, cut off the ends of the stalks, wash them in cold water, and peel them.

12. Take the peeled mushrooms and put them in a Btewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a chestnut.

ENTREES. 45

13. Squeeze over them a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and pour in a tablespoonful of cold water.

14. Put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring them to the boil.

15. Then take the stewpan off the fire, and turn them on to a plate.

16. Put half cm ounce of hutter into a stewpan.

17. Put the stewpan on the fire. When the hutter is melted, put in one ounce of flour ^ stirring it well with a wooden spoon.

18. Now add the chicTcen stoch and the mushroom-peel- ings^ and stir the sauce well until it boils.

19. Let it boil for ten minutes^ to cook \h.e flour.

20. After that time, add one giU of cream, and salt to taste.

21. Put the pieces of chichen and the hutton mushrooms into another stewpan.

22. Strain the sauce over the chicken, and then stand the stewpan in a saucepan of hot water over the fire, until the chicken is quite hot.

23. For serving, arrange the fricassee of chicken on a hot dish, with some fried hread (as described in " Yq^Q' tables," Lesson ]^o. 8, Note 13 to Note 17) put round the edge.

lESSON EIGHTH.

BEEF OLIVES.

Ingredients. — One pound and a half of beef or rump steak, or the fillet of beef. Two ounces of beef-suet. Three ounces of bread-crumbs. One tea- spoonful of chopped parsley. One-fourth of a teaspoonful of chopped thyme and marjoram. A little grated lemon-rind and nutmeg. Salt and pep- per. One egg. One pint of brown sauce or stock.

Time required^ about one hotir.

46 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

To make Beef Olives :

1. Take one pound and a half of heef or rump steah, or tlie fillet of heef and put it on a board.

2. Cut the beef in slices about half an inch in thick- ness and four inches in length, and beat them out with a wet cutlet-bat.

N. B. — ^You should be careful that all the slices are of the same size.

3. Take the trimmings that remain, chop them up very fine, and put them in a basin.

4. Take two ounces of heefsuet^ and put it on a board. 6. Cut away all the skin, and chop the suet up very

fine.

6. Stand a wire sieve over a piece of paper.

7. Rub some crurrib of bread through the sieve. (There should be three ounces of hread-crumhs,)

8. Take a little parsley, and chop it fine. (There should be one teaspoonful of chopped parsley.)

9. Take a little thyme and marjoram, and chop them fine. (There should be about a quarter of a teaspoonful of chopped thyme and marjoram.)

10. Add all these things (i. e., suet, bread-crumbs, par- sley, thyme, and marjoram) to the chopped beef in the basin.

11. Grate half a teaspoonful of lemonrrvnd and nutmeg into the basin.

12. Season it with plenty of pej^er and salt, add one egg, and mix all well together with a wooden spoon.

13. Take this mixture out of the basin, and form it into pieces the shape and size of a cork.

14. Roll up each slice of beef, placing a piece oi stuffing in the centre.

16. Tie each roll round with a piece of twine, to fasten it securely together.

ENTREES. 4,7

•

16. Place these rolls in a stewpan, with about* one pint of brown sauce {see " Sauces," Lesson No. 2), or good stock (see Lesson on ^' Stock ".)

17. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let them stew gently for three-qiia/rters of an hour.

18. For serving, arrange the beef olives on a hot dish in a circle, pouring the sauce round the edge. The cen- tre may be filled in with dressed spinach {see " Vegeta- bles," Lesson No. 7), or with mashed potatoes {see " YQgQ- tables," Lesson No. 2).

LESSON NINTH.

IRISH STEW.

Ingredients. — Three pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton, or the scrag end. One teaspoonful of salt. One salt-spoonful of pepper. One dozen of button onions, or two of moderate size. Six large potatoes.

Time required^ ahovi two hours.

To make an Irish Stew :

1. Take the best end of the neck of mutton, and cut and trim the cutlets in the same way as for " Haricot Mutton " {see " Entrees," Lesson No. 10, from Note 1 to Note 8).

2. Place the cutlets in a stewpan.

3. Sprinkle over them a teasjpoonful of salt and a salt- spoonful of pepper, and pour in on^ pint and a half of cold water.

4. Put the stewpan on the fire, and, when it has come to the boil, skim it.

5. Now draw the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for one hour.

48 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. "Watcli it and skim it occasionally, and remove all fat,

7. Wash half a dozen jpotatoes^ scrub them, and peel them.

8. Cut '^Q%Q jpotatoes in halves.

9. Take one dozen of hutton onions, or two moderate- sized ones, and peel them carefully.

10. Add the onions and potatoes to the stew, and let it simmer for one hour.

11. After that time, take a fork and feel if the vegetables are quite tender.

12. For serving, arrange the outlets in a circle on a hot dish, and pour the sauce round, with the vegetables in the centre.

N. B. — The scrag end of the neck of mutton might be used instead of the best end, but care should be taken in cleansing it before use.

LESSON TENTH.

HARICOT MUTTON.

Ingredients. — Three pounds of the beat end of the neck of mutton. One onion. Pepper and salt. One tablespoonful of flour. One pint of sec- ond stock. One carrot. One turnip. One dozen button onions.

Time required, about an hour and a half.

To make Haricot Mutton :

1. Take the best end of the nech of mutton and put it on a board.

2. Saw off the end of the rib-bone, leaving the cutlet- bone three inches in length.

3. Saw off the chine-bone, which lies at the back of the cutlets.

4. Joint each cutlet with a chopper.

5. Take a sharp knife and cut off each cutlet.

entr]6es. 49

6. Beat each cutlet with a cutlet-bat to rather more than half an inch in thickness.

7. Trim the cutlet round, leaving about half an inch of the rib-bone bare.

8. Form the cutlets to a good shape.

N. B. — The trimmings of the cutlets should be put aside, as the fat may be clarified and used for dripping {see Lesson on " Frying ").

9. Take one onion^ peel it, and cut it in slices.

10. Put the onion and the cutlets in a stewpan, with two ounces of hutter,

11. Put the stewpan on a quick fire, to fry the cutlets a nice brown.

12. Watch and turn the cutlets when they have become a light-brown, so as to fry them the same color on both sides. Then remove them from the stewpan.

13. Pour off the grease from the stewpan, and leave the onion ; then add one tablespoonful of flour, and pour in, by degrees, one pint of second stocic, and stir well until it boils.

14. Strain this sauce, and return the cutlets, with the sauce, into the stewpan.

15. Wash one carrot, scrape it clean with a knife, and cut it in the shape of young carrots, or into fancy shapes, with a cutter.

16. Peel two turnips, and cut them in quarters.

17. Peel one dozen hutton onions yerj carefully, so as not to break them in pieces.

18. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let the meat stew gently for half an hour ; then add the prepared vegetahles, and let all simmer for half an hour.

19. After that time, take a fork and feel if the vegetables are quite tender.

50 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

20. For serving, arrange the cutlets in a circle on a liot dish, with the vegetables in the centre. Kemove all grease from \hQ sauce^ and pour it round.

• N. B. — The scrag end of the neck of mutton might be used instead of the best end, but care should be taken in cleansing it before use.

LESSON ELEVENTH. CROQUETTES OR RISSOLES OF CHICKEN.

Ingredients.— One-half a cold chicken. Two ounces of lean ham or bacon. Six mushrooms. One ounce of flour. One ounce of butter. Half a gill of cream. One gill of stock. Seasoning. The juice of half a lemon. One egg. Half a pound of bread-crumbs. If for Rissoles with paste, four ounces of flour and three ounces of butter.

Time required^ about one hour.

To make Croquettes or Rissoles of Chicken :

1. Cut away all ihQ flesh from the hones of half a chick- en (either roasted or boiled), and put it on a board.

2. Remove the skin^ and mince the meat very fine.

3. "Wash and peel six mushrooms and mince them with two ounces of lean ham^ and mix them with the minced chicken.

4. Put one ounce of lutter in a stewpan, and place it over the fire.

5. When the butter is melted, stir in one ounce of flour, and mix it to a smooth paste.

6. ]^ow add the stock, and stir again smoothly, until it boils and thickens.

7. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and stir in half a gill of cream.

8. Take half a lemon and squeeze the juice of it into the sauce.

N. B. — ^Be careful not to let any pips fall in.

ENTRIES. 51

9. Season the sauoe witli pepper amd salt according to taste, and, if liked, grate about half a saltrsjpoonful of nut- meg into it.

10. Now stir in the minced chicken^ ham^ and mush- rooms^ until all are well mixed together.

11. Take a plate, and turn the contents of the stewpan on to it.

12. Cut a piece of hitchen-paper to the size of the plate, "butter it, and lay it on the top of the mixture^ and stand the plate aside to cool.

13. When the mixture is cold, put one pound and a half of lard, or clarified dripping, in a deep stewpan, and put it on the fire to heat.

14. Rub some crumb of hread through a wire sieve on to a piece of paper.

15. If rissoles are required, ^wifour ounces of fix)ur on a board, and rub into it three ounces of butter, until both are thoroughly mixed and there are no lumps remaining.

16. Mix the flour and butter into a stiff, smooth paste with cold water,

17. Flour a rolling-pin, sprinkle ^ome flour over the board, and roll the paste out into as thin a sheet as possible.

18. Flour your hands, dip a knife in flour (to prevent any sticking), and form the chicken mixture into any fancy shapes for croquettes, either in balls or long rolls, etc., or roll it in the paste for rissoles.

19. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it up slightly with a knife.

20. Dip the croquettes or rissoles into the egg, and egg them well all over with a paste-brush.

21. Now roll them in the bread-crumbs, covering them well all over.

N. B. — You must be careful to cover them smoothly, and not too thickly.

52 LESSOl^S IN COOKERY.

22. Take a fr2/ing-hasket, and arrange the croquettes or rissoles in it. Finger them as little as possible, and do not allow them to touch each other.

23. When the fat is quite hot and smoking, put in the frying -hasTtet for tvyo minutes or so, to fry them a jpale- yellow.

24. Put a piece of whity-hrown paper on a plate, and, as the rissoles are fried, turn them on to the paper to drain off the grease.

25. For serving, arrange them tastily on a hot dish, with fried parsley in the centre.

N. B. — Cold veal or pheasant, etc., might be used for the rissoles and croquettes, instead of chicken, if preferred.

LESSON TWELFTH.

CURRIED RABBIT.

Ingredients. — One rabbit, or one and a half pound of veal cutlet. One- fourth of a pound of butter. Two onions. One apple. Two tablespoon- fuls of curry powder. One pint of good stock. One gill of cream. One lemon. One-half a teaspoonf ul of salt.

Ti7ne required, about tivo hours and a half.

To make a Curry of Babbit or Yeal :

1. Put a quarter of a pound of hiUter into a stewpan, and put it on the fire to melt.

2. Peel two onions, put them on a board, and chop them up as finely as possible.

3. Put the chopped onions into the melted hutter, and let them fry a light-brown.

N. B. — You must be careful that they do not bum.

4. Take a rabbit (which has been skinned and properly prepared for cooking), wash it well, and dry it in a cloth.

ENTRIES. 53

5. Put the tMU on a board and cut it up in pieces of equal size.

6. If lieal is used^ put it on a board and cut it into equal-sized pieces.

N. B. — ^If preferred, chicken can be used instead of rahhii or veal,

7. When the onions are fried, strain them from the hutter.

8. Put the hutter back into the stewpan.

9. Now put in the pieces of meat, put the stewpan over a quick fire, and let it fry for ten minutes.

10. Watch it, and tmii the pieces of m^eat occasionally, so that they will be fried on both sides alike.

11. Peel an wpple, cut out the core, and chop it up as finely as possible on a board.

12. When the meat is fried, add to it two tablespoonfuls of (mrry powder and half a teaspoonful of salt, and stir well over the fire for five rninutes.

13. Then put in the fried onions, the chopped apple^ and one pint of good stock.

14. Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for two hours.

15. After that time, stir in one gill of or earn.

16. Wipe a lemon clean with a cloth, and peel it as thinly as possible with a sharp knife. (The peel should be put aside, as it is not required for present use.)

17. Cut the lemon in half, and squeeze the juice of it through a strainer into the stewpan.

18. For serving, take the pieces of meat out of the stew- pan, and arrange them nicely on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over the meat,

N. B. — ^Boiled rice should be served with the curry.

CHAPTER V. STEWS.

LESSON FIEST.

A-LA-MODE BEEF.

Ingredients. — One cow-heel. An ox-cheek. Three ounces of dripping. Three carrots. Six onions. One bunch of herbs (marjoram, thyme, par- sley, and bay-leaf). Two tablespoonfuls of flour. Pepper and salt.

Time required^ three hours.

To make A-la-Mode Beef:

1. Take a dressed cow-heel and wasli it thoroughly in water.

2. Put the cow-7ieel on a board and cut off all i\iQ flesh. Cut the flesh into neat pieces.

3. Take an ox-cheek and wash it well in cold water.

N. B. — Be sure it is quite clean, and free from all impurities.

4. Put the ox-cheek on a board and rub it well with salt.

6. Then rub it quite dry in a clean cloth. 6. Put three ounces of clarified drippmg into a large saucepan, and place it on the fire to melt.

STEWS. 55

7. Cut tlie ox- cheek up into neat pieces.

N. B. — Weigh the flesh of the ox-cheek and cow-heel^ so as to know how much water should be added, as one pint is allowed to each pound of meoL

8. Flour each piece,

9. When the dripping is melted, put in the floured pieces of ox-cheeky and let them fry a nice brown.

10. Stir the 'pieces occasionally, and do not let them stick to the bottom of the saucepan.

11. Take three carrots, wash them, scrape them clean, and cut them in slices with a sharp knife.

12. Take six onions^ peel them, and cut them in slices.

13. Take a sprig or two of parsley, wash it, and dry it in a cloth.

14. Take one sprig of marjoram, thyme, one hay-leaf and the parsley, and tie them tightly together with a piece of string.

15. Put these vegetcMes and the hunch ofherhs into the saucepan.

16. Pour in the proper quantity of water — ^namely, one pint of water to each pound of meat,

17. Put two tdblespoonfuls of flour into a basin, and mix it into a smooth pa^te with cold water.

18. IN'ow put the pieces of cow-heel into the saucepan, and plenty oi pepper and salt to taste.

19. Stir the paste smoothly into the saucepan.

20. Put the lid on the saucepan, and, when it boils, move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it stew gently for three hours.

21. Watch it, and skim it very often.

N. B. — Be always careful to skim anything that is cooking directly the seum rises, or it will boil down again into the meat, and will spoil it. Scum is the impurity which rises from the meat or vegetablet, 4

56 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

22. When tlie stew is finished, pour it into a large dish or a soup-tureen. It is then ready for serving.

N. B. — The bones of the cow-heel should be put into the stock-pot.

LESSON SECOND. BRAZILIAN STEW.

Ingredients. — ^Four pounds of shin or sticking of beef. Two carrots. Two turnips. Four onions. A bunch of herbs (marjoram, thyme, and par- sley). Pepper and salt. One gill of vinegar.

2^me required, about three hours and ten minutes.

To make Brazilian Stew :

1. Take four pounds of the shin of heef or the stich- ing ofheefy put it on a board, and cut all the meat off the bone.

2. Cut up the meat into neat pieces.

3. Dip each piece of meat into some vinegar in a basin.

N. B. — ^Putting meat into vinegar will make it tender, therefore any tough pieces may be used for this stew. The vinegar will not be tasted when the meat is cooked.

4. "Wash two carrots, scrape them clean, and cut them into slices with a sharp knife.

5. Peel two turnips and four onions, and cut them in slices.

6. Put the pieces of meat into a saucepan, arranging them closely together.

7. Sprinkle some pepper and salt over the meat.

8. IS'ow put in all the vegetables, and also add a small 'bunch of herbs — namely, a sprig of marjoram., thyme, and parsley, tied tightly together.

N. B, — ^Put no waier in this stew ; the vinegar draws out the juices of the meat, and makes plenty of gravy.

STEWS. 57

9. Shut down the lid tight ; put the saucepan by the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for at least three hours.

10. For serving, turn the stew on to a hot dish, or into a soup-tureen.

LESSON THIED.

IRISH STEW.

Ingredients. — Two pounds of potatoes. One pound of the scrag end of mutton. One pound of onions. Pepper and salt.

Time required^ about three hcncrs.

To make an Irish Stew :

1. Take two pounds of potatoes and wash them well in cold water.

2. Take a sharp knife, peel them, carefully cut out the eyes or any black specks about the potatoes, and cut them in slices.

3. Peel one pound of onions, and cut them in slices.

4. Take one pound of the scrag end of the neck of mut- ton, wash it in cold water, and scrape it clean with a knife.

5. Put the nfieat on a board, and cut it up in small pieces.

6. Take a large saucepan ; put in a layer of meat, then a layer oi potatoes, then a layer oi onions.

7. Sprinkle a WHIq peppier and salt over each layer for seasoning.

8. Continue to fill the saucepan in this way till there is no meat or vegetables left.

9. Pour in enough cold water to cover the bottom of the saucepan (about half a pint).

10, Put the saucepan on the fire, and when it has come

58 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

to tlie boil draw it to the side of the fire, and let it stew gently for from one hour and a half to two hours.

11. Watch it, and stir it occasionally, to prevent its catching.

12. For serving, turn the stew out on a hot dish.

N. B. — ^If a larger quantity of potato is required in the stew^ the extra quantity should be parboiled {see note below), and then cut in slices and added to the stew^ half an hour before it is ready for serving. If all the potatoes were put in with the meat at first, so much water would be required that the stew would be spoiled.

N. B. — ^For parboiling (or half-boiling) potatoes, wash them and peel them ; put them in a saucepan, with enough cold water to cover them ; put the saucepan on the fire, and let the potatoes boil for about half an hour.

LESSON FOURTH.

STEWED BKISKET OF BEEF.

Ingredients. — Seven pounds of brisket of beef. Two carrots. One turnip. Two onions. One head of celery. One leek. Bouquet garni (i. e., sprig of thyme, marjoram, and bay-leaf). Six cloves. Twelve pepper-corns. Six allspice. One tablespoonful of salt.

Time required, about four hours.

To make Stewed Brisket of Beef to be served cold :

1. Take seven pounds of Irisket of leef (not very fat) ; see that it is quite clean, and, if necessary, scrape it with a knife and wipe it with a clean cloth, and then put it into a large saucepan.

2. Take two carrots^ wash and scrape them clean, and cut them in halves.

3. Wash one turnip and tmo onions, and peel them, and cut the turnip in quarters.

STEWS. 59

4. Take one leek and one head of celery^ wash them well in water, cut the long green leaves off the leeTc^ and the green tops from the celery.

6. Add all these vegetables to the meat in the saucepan.

6. Add also a houquet garni of thyme^ marjoram, and a hay-leaf, tied tightly together, six cloves, twelve pepper- corns, six allspice, one tablespoonful of salt, and three quarts of cold water.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it comes to the boil, skim it well.

8. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for three hours. Watch it, and skim it occasionally.

9. After that time, take the meat out of the saucepan and put it on a dish.

10. Take a knife and carefully remove the flat bones at the side of the heef.

11. Place the J^ between two dishes, with some heavy weight on the top to press it.

12. Pour the stoch through a strainer into a basin, and, when it is cold, remove every particle of fat.

13. Then pour the stock into a stewpan, and put it on the fire to boil, without the lid, so as to reduce the stocJc to a glaze, about a gill.

14. Now take the heef and, with a paste-brush, cover the joint with the glaze, brushing it over several times, until all the glaze is used up ; as soon as it is cold, and has set, the heef is ready for serving.

CHAPTER VI TRITE.

LESSON PIEST. CURRIED TRIPE.

Ingredients. — One pound of tripe. One-quarter of a pound of rice. One

onion. Flour, sugar, and curry-powder.

Time required^ about three liows.

To make a Curry of Tripe ;

1. Put one pound of tripe in a saucepan of cold water, and let it boil. Take it at once out of the water.

N. B.— This is called " blanching."

2. After the tripe is blanched, scrape it with a knife, and thoroughly cleanse it.

3. Cut the tripe up into small pieces.

4. Take a saucepan and lay the pieces of tripe in it, and pour in enough cold water to cover it.

5. Take a small onion and peel it, and cut it partially through.

6. Put the onion into the saucepan of tripe,

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it boils, re- move it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer for not less than two hours and a half

TRIPE. Q\

8. After tliat time, try the tripe with a fork, and if it is sufficiently cooked, it will be very tender.

9. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

10. Take out the pieces of tripe with a fork, and put them on a dish.

11. Take a small saucepan, and put in it one ounce of flour, one dessertspoonful of curry-powder, and half cm, ounce of dripping, and mix them all well together with a wooden spoon.

12. Add enough cold water to make the above into a stiff paste.

13. Now pour in half a pint of the liquor in which the tripe was boiled.

14. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the mixture well until it boils and thickens. Do not let it get lumpy.

16. Stir in a quarter of a teaspoonful of hrown sugar, and salt according to taste. Now stand the saucepan aside to get cool.

16. Take the onion which was boiled with the tripe, and cut it in shreds, and add it to the sauce.

17. When the sauce is a little cool, put in the pieces of tripe, and let them just warm through.

18. Take a dish and warm it, and pour the tripe and sauce on it, keeping it as much in the centre of the dish as possible.

19. Take a teaeupful of rice, wash it well in two or three waters, and put it in a saucepan full of boiling water. Be sure the water is boiling. Add to it a salt- spoonful of salt.

N. B. — Rice should be boiled in plenty of water.

20. Let it boil from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes. After that time, feel the rice, to see if it is soft.

62 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

21. When the rice is sufficiently cooked, strain it off, and pour cold water over it.

22. Then put the rice back into the empty saucepan, and stand the saucepan by the side of the fire, to dry the rice. The lid should be only half on the saucepan.

23. When the rice is quite dry, take it out of the sauce- pan, and arrange it round the tripe.

lESSON SECOND.

TRIPE IN MILK.

Ingredients. — One pound of tripe. Three or four good-sized onions. One pint of milk. Seasoning and flour.

Time required^ about two hours and a half.

To cook Tripe in Milk:

1. Put one pound of tripe in a saucepan of cold water, to boil up and blanch. . When it boils, take it off the fire.

2. Then take it out of the water, scrape it, and cleanse it thoroughly.

3. Cut it up in small pieces on a board.

4. Peel three or four good-sized onions^ and cut them partially through.

5. Put the tripe and onions into the saucepan, with one pint of milk.

6. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

7. When it boils, move it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer for not less than two hours.

8. Then try it with a fork, and, if sufficiently cooked, it will be very tender.

9. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

TRIPE. 63

10. Take the onions out of the saucepan, and put them on a board and chop them fine.

11. Take the tripe out of the saucepan, and arrange it on a warm dish.

12. Stand the dish near the fire, to keep warm.

13. Take a dessertspoonfttl of flour^ and mix it to a smooth paste with cold milk.

14. Stir, by degrees, the paMe into the hot milk, and let it boil and thicken.

15. I^ow stir the onion into the milk, and let it warm through.

16. Season the onionsomce according to taste, and pour it over the tripe.

LESSON THIRD.

TEIPE A LA COUTANCE.

Ingredients. — One pound of thin tripe. One-half a pound of bacon. One small carrot. Four mushrooms. One-half a large onion, or six small green ones. Bouquet garni. Two shallots and parsley. Two ounces of butter. One tablespoonf ul of Harvey sauce. One tablespoonful of mush- room catchup. One ounce of flour. One pint of stock. The juice of half a lemon. Salt and pepper.

Time required^ about two hours and a half.

To cook Tripe d la Coutance :

1. Wash the tripe well in cold water.

2. Put the tripe in a stewpan, with cold water enough to cover it.

3. Put the stewpan on the fire, and bring it to the boil.

N. B. — This is to blanch the tripe.

4. Then take the tripe out of the stewpan, and dry it in a clean cloth.

64 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Put the trijpe on a board, and, with a sharp knife, cut it into strips about two inches wide and four inches in length,

N. B. — Only the thin part of the tripe can be used for Tripe d la Cou- tance. If there are any thick pieces^ they can be cooked with milk and onions {see " Tripe," Lesson No. 2).

6. Take the half jpound of hacon and cut it into very- thin slices, the same size as the strips of t/ripe.

7. Take one peeled shallot and two or three sprigs of parsley, and chop them fine on a board.

8. Lay one slice of hacon on each strip of tripe, sprin- kle a little chopped shallot and parsley over each slice of hacon, roll them up together, and tie them firmly round with a piece of string.

9. Take the carrot, wash it, scrape it clean with a knife, and cut it in slices.

10. Take the half onion and the other sA<2?^6>^, peel them, and cut them in slices.

11. Take a sprig of marjoram, thyme, and a hay-leaf and tie them tightly together with a piece of string.

12. Take the mushrooms, wash them, and cut oif the ends of the stalks.

13. Arrange the rolls of tripe and hacon in a stewpan.

14. Add all the mgetahles and the herhs.

15. Pour in apint of stock, and put the stewpan on the fire.

16. When it just boils, remove the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for two hours.

17. After that time, take out the rolls of tripe and put them on a plate.

18. Take a strainer, hold it over a basin, and strain the stock.

TRIPE. ^5

19. Put two ounces of 'butter into another stewpan, and put it on the fire to melt.

20. When the hutter is melted, add to it orie ounce of flour ^ and mix them smoothly together.

21. Now add the stocky and stir it over the fire until it boils and thickens.

22. Take half a lemon, and squeeze ih.Q juice of it into the sauce.

N. B. — Be careful not to let Qiry pips fall in.

23. Stir in on^ taUespoonful of Harvey sauce and one tdblespoonful of mushroom catchup, and season with pep- per and salt.

24. ISTow place in the rolls of trvpe, and let them warm through.

25. Serve the rolls of tripe in a circle on a hot dish, with some puree of carrot or spinach {see " Yegetables," Lessons Nos. 6 and 8), or with a mixture of vegetables (according to taste) in the centre, and pour the sauce round the edge.

CHAPTER VII, OJ^ COOKIJfG MEAT,

LESSON FIEST.

BEAISED FILLET OF VEAL.

Ingredients. — Three and one-half pounds of the fillet of veal. One-half a pound of the fat of bacon. A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, and bay- leaf. One onion. Three pints of good stock. Two young carrots. Celery and turnip. Salt,

Time required^ about one hour and a Jmlf. ( The stock shoidd be made the day before.)

To Braise a MUet of Veal:

1. Take three omd a half-pounds cf the fillet of veal, put it on a board, and cut off all the shin with a sharp knife.

2. Lard this fillet in the same way as for fillets of heef {see " Entrees," Lesson Ko. 3, from IS'ote 3 to JSTote Y).

3. Place \hQ fillet carefully in a clean braising-pan.

4. Add a houquet garn% consisting of a sprig of par- sley, thyme, and a hay-leaf all tied neatly and tightly together.

6. Take two young ca/rrots, wash them, scrape them clean with a knife, and cut them in halves.

ON COOKING MEAT. 67

6. Take an onion and a qua/rter of a tv/rnvp^ and peel them carefully.

7. Add these vegetables, and half a stick of celery, to the filet in the braising-pan.

8. ISTow pour in about three pints of good stock (the stock must not cover the meat), put the stewpan on the fire, and baste the filet continually.

9. Take a piece of kitchen-pajper, cut a round to the size of the braising-pan, and butter it.

10. As soon as the stock boils, lay this round of paper on the fillet in the stewpan.

N. B. — This paper is to prevent the meat from browning too quickly.

11. Keep the lid of the braising-pan on* and place it in a hot oven, and let it cook slowly for one hov/r am,d a qua/rter,

12. Watch it, frequently raise the paper, and baste the veal with the stock.

13. Take the veal out of the braising-pan, and place it on a hot dish.

N. B. — Stand this dish on the hot plate, or near the fire, to keep warm until the sauce is ready.

14. Put the braising-pan on the fire, and let the sauce reduce to a half-glaze.

15. Then strain the glaze round the meat.

16. Serve it with dressed spinach (see " Yegetables," Lesson No. 8), or with dressed carrots omd tv/rnips (see " Vegetables," Lesson No. 6).

68 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SECOND,

Ingredients. — One bullock's heart. One-quarter of a pound of suet. Three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs. A gill of milk. Salt and pepper. One tablespoonful of chopped parsley. One dessertspoonful of chopped mixed herbs — ^thyme, lemon-thyme, and marjoram. One-quarter of a pound of dripping. For sauce : One small onion. Salt and pepper. One-half ounce of flour. One ounce of butter. One dessertspoonful of catchup.

Time required, about two hours and a half.

To Stuff a Bullock's Hea/rt and Eoast it :

1. Prepare the fire for roasting, as described in " Eoast- ing," Lesson I^o. 1.-

2. "Wash a huUoch^s heart thoroughly in salt and water.

3. Be careful to cleanse all the cavities of the heart, and to remove all the blood.

4. Take it out of the salt and water and put it into a basin of clean water, and wash it again until it is quite clean.

6. Now wipe it thoroughly on a dry cloth.

6. If the heart is not quite dry, it will not roast prop- erly.

7. Put the heart on a board, and, with a sharp knife, cut off the flaps or deaf ears (as they are called).

N. B. — These should be put aside for gravy.

8. Take a quarter of a pound of suet, put it on a board, cut away all the sMn, and chop it up as fine as possible.

9. Sprinkle a little four over the suet, to prevent it from sticking to the board or knife.

10. Grate some hread-crurribs with a grater on to the board. .

ON COOKING MEAT. 69

11. Take two or three sprigs of jparsley^ wash them in cold water, and dry them in a cloth.

12. Put the parsley on a board, and chop it up as fine as possible ; when chopped, there should be about ome tdblesjpoonful.

13. Take a sprig of ihyme^ lemon-thyine^ and marjoram^ rub them through a strainer, or chop them up finely on a board ; there should be about one dessertspoonful of the mixed herhs.

14. Now mix the chopped suet and Ireadrcrvmbs well together.

15. Then add the parsley and the h£rbs^ one teaspoonful of salt, and pepper to taste, and mix them thoroughly- together.

16. Now mix it with one gill of milk.

17. Take the heart and fill all the cavities with the stuffing, pressing it in as firmly as possible.

N. B. — ^If there is any stuffing over, it can be put aside for the sauce.

18. Take a piece of kitchen-paper and grease it well with a piece of hutter or dripping.

19. Place this piece of greased paper over the top of the heart where the cavities are, and tie it on tightly with a string.

20. Put the roasting-oven in front of the fire.

21. Put the dripping-pan, or a large dish, down on a stand within the oven, close to the fire, with the dripping- ladle or a large spoon in it.

22. Hang the roasting-jack up in the oven, over the dripping-pan.

N. B. — If there is no roasting-jack, you can manage with a strong piece of worsted tied to a hook in the top of the oven.

70 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

23. Wind up the jack with its key before you put the meat on.

24. Take the hook of the roasting-jack and pass it through the hearty and hang it on the jack or the worsted.

N. B. — If the heart is hanging to a piece of worsted, twist the vorsted occasionally, to make it go round.

25. Put about cme ounce of clarified dripping into the dripping-pan, and baste the heart occasionally.

26. It will take about two hours to roast.

27. Now take the deaf ears out of the water and put them into a saucepan, with one pint of cold water.

28. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

29. Take one small onion, peel it, and cut it in quarters.

30. "When the water boils, put in the onion, and a little salt and pepper to taste.

31. IS^ow move the saucepan to the side of the fire, put the lid on, and let it stew gently until ^^^ mvnutes before the heart is done.

32. Watch it, and skim it occasionally.

33. After that time, strain the liquor into a basin.

34. Wash out the saucepan and put in it one ounce of hutter, and put it on the fire to melt.

35. When the hutter is melted, add one tablespoonful of flour, and mix them smoothly together with a wooden spoon.

36. I^ow pour the liquor in by degrees, and stir smoothly until it boils and thickens.

37. Then stand the saucepan by the side of the fire until required for use.

38. When the heart is roasted, take it down, place it on a hot dish, and draw out the hook.

39. Cut the string, and take off the greased paper.

ON COOKING MEAT. 71

40. If there be any stuffing left over, stir it now into the sauce, and add one dessertsjpoonful of mushroom catchup.

N. B. — If the flavoring of mushroom catchup is disliked, it may be omitted.

41. Pour the sauce round the heart on the dish, and it is ready for serving.

LESSON THIED. C0ENI8H PASTIES.

Ingredients. — One-half a pound of buttock steak, or beef skirt. Half a pound of potatoes. One onion. One pound of flour. One-half a pound of dripping. Salt and pepper. One teaspoonful of baking-powder.

Time required^ about one hour.

To make Cornish Pasties :

1. Take half a pound of huttoch stea\ or heef shirty put it on a board, and cut it up into sniall pieces.

2. Take half a pound of potatoes, wash and peel them, put them on a board, and cut them up into small pieces.

3. Take one small onion, peel it, put it on a board, and chop it up as fine as possible.

4. Put one pound of flour into a basin, with a little salt and a teaspoonful of hahing-powder.

5. Put in half a pound of dripping, and rub it well into \hQ flour with your hands.

6. Now add enough cold water to mix it into a stiff

7. Flour a board, and turn the^c^^^^ on to it.

8. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll the paste out into a thin sheet, about a quarter of an inch in thickness.

9. Cut the paste into pieces about six or seven inches square.

72 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

10. Place a little of the meat and potato in the centre of each square ; sprinkle over it a little jpep^er and salt, and a very little of the chojpped onion.

11. Fold the paste over the meat, joining it by pressing the edges together with your thumb and finger.

12. Grease a baking-tin, and put the pasties on it.

N. B. — If there is no baking-tin, grease the shelf in the oven, to pre- vent the pasties from sticking.

13. Put the tin into the oven to bake for from half an hour to three-quarters of an hour.

14. For serving, put the pasties on a dish.

LESSON POURTH. A GRILLED OR BROILED STEAK.

Ingredients. — One-half a pound of rump steak. Lemon, pepper, and salt. Butter and salad-oil.

Time required^ about ten minutes.

To Grill a Steah (either heef or rump steak will do, but the latter is more tender) :

1. Take a small bunch oi parsley yy^2i^ it, dry it well in a cloth, and put it on a board.

2. Chop the parsley up very fine with a knife.

3. Take a qioarter of an ounce of hutter and mix it- well with the chopped parsley.

4. Sprinkle over it pepper and salt (according to taste), and six drops of lemon-juice.

6. Make it all up into a small pat.

6. Take half a pound of rump steak, half an inch in thickness.

7. Pour about a tablespoonful of salad-oil on to a plate.

ON COOKING MEAT. 73

8. Dip both sides of the steak into the oil,

9. Take a gridiron and warm it well by the fire.

10. Place the oiled steak on the gridiron, close to the fire, to cook quickly.

N. B. — ^If the meat is at all frozen, it must be warmed gradually through before putting it quite near the fire, or it will be tough.

11. Turn the gridiron with the steak occasionally; it will take from ten to twelve minutes^ according to the brightness and heat of the fire.

12. When the steak is sufiiciently cooked, place it on a hot dish; and be careful not to stick the fork into the TYieat (or the gravy will run out), but into the fat.

13. Take the pat of green hutter and put it on the steak, spreading it all over with a knife.

LESSON FIFTH.

LIVER Al^D BACON.

Ingredients. — ^Two pounds of sheep's liver. One pound of bacon. One dessertspoonful of flour. One small onion.

TKme required, about half an hour.

To Cook Liver and Bacon :

1. Take one jpound of hacon, put it on a board, and cut it in thin slices.

2. Cut the rind ofi" each slice of hacon.

3. Put these slices of hacon into a frying-pan.

4. Put the frying-pan on the fire, to fry the hacon ; it will take about ten minutes.

N. B. — If the bacon is not very fat, put a small piece of dripping in the frying-pan with it.

5. Turn it when one side is fried.

74 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. ]^ow take a sheep^s liver (it will weigh about two jpounds\ put it on a board, and cut it in slices.

7. Put about i/wo iaMespoonfuU of flour on a plate.

8. Dip the slices of liver into IYlq flour ^ and flour them well on both sides.

9. When the hacon is fried, take it out of the fr jing- pan and put it on a warm dish.

10. Stand the dish near the fire, to keep warm.

11. Put the slices of liver in the frying-pan, a few at a time, as they must not be on the top of each other.

N. B. — If the flavor of onion is liked, a small onion, peeled and cut in slices, might be fried with the liver.

12. The liver will take about a quarter of an hour to fry.

13. Watch it occasionally, and turn it once.

14. To see when the liver is sufficiently cooked, cut a slice ; the inside should be of a brownish color.

15. When the liver is all- cooked, place it on the dish with the bacon.

16. Put a dessertspoonful of flour in a cup, and mix it into a smooth, paste with nearly a gill of water,

17. Pour the flour and water into the frying-pan, and stir it until it boils and thickens.

18. Pour this sauce over the liver and hacon.

LESSON SIXTH. MEAT PIE (beef STEAK).

Ingredients. — One pound and a half of buttock steak. Half a pound of bullock's kidney. Seasoning. One pound of flour. One-half a pound of clarified dripping. One teaspoonful of baking-powder.

Time required, about two hours and a quarter.

To make Meat Pie :

1. Cut into thin slices onepovmd and a half of huttocTc steak.

ON COOKING MEAT. 75

2. Cut away all the skin.

3. Put on a plate half a pound of hullocTc's hidiiey^ and cut it in thin slices.

4. Mix well together, on a plate, one tahlesjpoonful of flour, one teasjpoonful of salt, and a teasjpoonful of pepper,

5. Dip each slice of ineat and hidney into the season- ing, and roll them up into little rolls.

6. Arrange these rolls in a quart pie-dish, and fill it two-thirds full of water.

7. Put one pound of flour into a basin.

8. Add one teaspoonful of hahing-powder an d half a salt- spoonful of salt to the flour, and mix them well together.

9. Cut half a pound of clarified dripping in small pieces, and rub it well into \hQ flour with your hands.

N. B. — ^Be careful that there are no lumps of drippmg in the flour.

10. Then add, by degrees, enough cold water to make it into a ^i\^ paste.

11. Take a rolling-pin and flour it ; sprinkle flour on the board, and flour your hands, to prevent the paste from sticking.

12. Take the paste out of the basin and put it on a board.

13. Roll out the paste once to the shape of the pie-dish, only rather larger, and to the thickness of about one-third of an inch.

14. Wet the edge of the dish with water.

15. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut a strip of the paste the width of the edge of the pie-dish, and place it round the edge of the dish.

N. B. — Cut this strip of paste from round the edge of the paste, leav- ing the centre piece the size and shape of the top of the pie-dish.

16. Wet the edge of the paste with water.

76 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

17. Take the remaining paste and place it over the pie- dish, pressing it down with your thumb all round the edge.

N. B. — Be very careful not to break the paste.

18. Take a knife, dip it in flour^ and trim off all the rough edges of i]iQ paste round the edge of the dish.

19. Take a knife, and with the back of the blade make little notches in the edge of the paste^ pressing the paste firmly with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place.

N. B. — Ornament the top of the pie with any remaining paste, to your fancy.

20. Make a hole with the knife in the centre of the pie, to let out the steam while the pie is baking.

N. B. — If there be not an escape for the steam, it will sodden the inside of the crust, and so prevent it from baking properly.

21. Put the pie into the oven, to bake gently for two hours. Watch it occasionally, and turn it to prevent its burning. It should become a pale brown.

N. B. — Meat pie should be put in the hottest part of the oven first — which in most ovens is the top — to make the crust light, and then put in a cooler part, to cook the meat thoroughly.

N. B. — This pie could be made with veal or mutton, instead of steak.

LESSON SEVENTH. MEAT PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Six ounces of suet. One pound of flour. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Seasoning. One pound and a half of buttock steak. Half a pound of bullock's kidney.

Time required, about tivo hours and a half.

To make a Meat Pudding :

1. Put a large saucepan full of cold water on the fire to boil.

ON COOKING MEAT. 77

2. Put six ounces of suet on a board.

3. Cut away all the shin and chop up the suet as fine as possible, and sprinkle a little flour over it, to prevent its sticking.

4. Put one pound of flour into a basin, and add to it a teaspoonful of haking-jpowder and half a salt-spoonful of salt^ and mix all well together.

6. Now add the chopped suet, and rub it well into the flour with your hands.

N. B. — Be careful not to have any lumps of suet.

6. Add, by degrees, about half a pint of cold water, to make it into a paste ; mix it well.

7. Put one teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper on a plate, and mix them together.

8. Take one pound and a half of huttock steak on a board, and cut it in slices about three inches long and two inches hroad.

N.B. — ^You must cut away all the skin.

9. Put half a pound of kidney on a board, and cut it in slices.

10. Dip each slice of meat and kidney into the plate of seasoning.

11. Take a quart basin, and grease it well inside with dripping,

12.- Take a rolling-pin iindi flour it; sprinkle a very \\it\Q flour on the board, to prevent the paste sticking.

N. B. — In making paste, always keep your hands well floured, to pre- vent its sticking to them.

13. Take the paste out of the basin and put it on the board.

14. Cut ofi about one-third of the paste, and lay it aside for the cover or top of the pudding.

78 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

15. Eoll out tlie remainder of the paste to a round twice the size of the top of the basin ; it should be about one-third of an inch in thickness.

16. Line the basin inside smoothly with \hQ jpaste.

17. Place the slices of meat and kidney in the basin, fitting them neatly.

18. Pour in about one gill and a half of water, so as to fill the basin to within half an inch of the top.

19. Poll the remaining pieces of paste to a round the size of the top of the basin, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness.

20. Wet the edge of the paste in the basin with cold water, and cover over the top of the basin with the round of paste.

21. Join the paste together at the edge of the basin, pressing the edges together with your thumb.

22. Take a knife, flour it, and trim the edges of the paste neatly round.

23. Take a small pudding-cloth, wring it out in warm water, 2indiflK)ur it.

24. Put this cloth over the top of the basin, tying it on tightly with a piece of string under the rim of the basin.

25. Tie the four corners of the cloth together over the top of the pudding.

26. "When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the pudding, and let it boil for two hours.

N. B. — The lid should be on the saucepan.

N. B. — Keep a kettle of boiling water, and fill up the saucepan as the water in it boils away.

27. After that time, take the pudding out of the sauce- pan, and take off the cloth.

28. Place a hot dish on the top of the pudding, turn

ON COOKING MEAT.

the basin and dish quite over, and, carefully raising the basin, leave the j^udding in the middle of the dish, un- broken.

N. B, — ^This pudding might be made of beef skirt or Australian beef.

LESSON EIGHTH. pig's fry.^

In^edients. — One pound of pig's fry. Two and a half pounds of potatoes.

One onion. Sage and seasoning. Time required, about an hour and a quarter.

To cook Pig^s Fry — ''Poor Man^s Goose " ;

1. Take two and a half-pounds of jpotatoes and put them in a basin of cold water.

2. Take a scrubbing-brush and wash the potatoes well.

3. Put i\iQ potatoes into a saucepan of cold water.

4. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

5. As soon as it boils, take i\\e potatoes out of the water (N. B. — This is called " parboiling " potatoes)^ peel them, and cut them in slices with a sharp knife.

6. Take one onion and peel it.

7. Take two or three sage-lea/ces and put them on a board.

8. Chop up the onion and sage together on the board with a sharp knife.

9. Take one pound of pig^s fry and cut it in small pieces.

10. Take a quart pie-dish and grease the dish with drip- ping or fat.

11. Put a layer of sliced potatoes in the bottom of the pie-dish.

* Pig's Fry is composed of the heart, liver, lights, and sweet-bread. 5

80 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

12. Sprinkle a little of the chopped sage and onion, pepper and salt, over the potatoes.

13. Now put in a layer of \\\q pig' s fry ,

14. Sprinkle a little of the chopped sage and onion, pepper and 5<zZ^, over the pig^sfry.

16. ISTow add another layer of sliced potatoes, and sprin- kle them with a little of the chopped sa^e and onion, pepper and salt.

16. Put in another layer of pig''s fry, and sprinkle the remainder of the chopped sage and onion, and a little pepper and salt, on the top.

17. Cover these layers with the rest of the sliced potOr toes.

18. E^ow fill up the pie-dish with water for gravy.

19. Take the shin usually sent with the pig^s fry and put it over the top of the pie-dish.

20. If the shin is not sent, take a piece of whity-brown paper, and grease it with some dripping or fat, and put that over the pie-dish instead.

21. Put the pie-dish into a moderate oven, to bake for from three-quarters of an hour to one hour.

LESSON NINTH.

BOILED pig's head (sALTEd), WITH ONION-SAUCE.

Ingredients. — ^Half a pig's head. Forty pepper-coms. Two blades of mace. Four cloves. Twelve allspice. A bunch of herbs. Two large onions.

Time required {after salting) for hoilirtg pig^s head, about two hours ; for making into hrawn^ two hours.

To Bo\\ Fig's Read:

1. Wash a pig'^s head thoroughly in plenty of tepid water.

ON COOKING MEAT. 81

2. Take out the hrains and throw them away.

3. Cut out the little veins^ and all the splinters of hone.

4. Wash the head in all parts with plenty of salt, thor- oughly cleansing it from blood.

5. Lay the head in jpiclde {see " Pickle for Meat ") for three days.

6. When the head is salted, put it into a saucepan, with cold water enough to cover it.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

8. When it boils, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for from one hour and a half to two hours, according to the size and age of the pig.

N. B. — Boiled pig's Jiead is eaten with boiled rabbity or with veal^ or with onion-sauce.

N. B. — If preferred, the pig's Jiead can be made into brawn {see below).

FOB ONION-SAUCE.

Ingredients. — Three onions. Three gills of milk. A dessertspoonful of flour. Half an ounce of butter. Pepper and salt.

For making Onion- Sauce :

9. Take three or four onions, peel them, and cut them in quarters.

10. Put them into a saucepan, with water enough to cover them.

11. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil, until the onions are quite tender.

12. Then strain them off, throw the water away, put the onions on a board, and chop them up small.

13. Throw the onions into a saucepan, with three gills of milk, put it on the fire, and let it come to the boil.

14. Put a dessertspoonful of flour into a basin, and mix it, with half an ounce of hutter, into a paste with a knife.

82 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

15. Stir this jpaste smoothly into the boiling milk and onions^ and continue to stir it until it boils.

16. Season the sauce with pejyper and salt to taste, and then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, to keep warm till required for use.

17. Take a grater and grate some hread-crumhs on to a plate.

18. Put the plate in the stove oven, or in a tin oven, to brown the hread-crumbs.

19. When the jpig^s head is sufficiently boiled, take it out of the saucepan and put it on a hot dish.

20. Take out the half tongue, skin it, and put it back on the dish with the head.

21. Sprinkle the browned hread-erumhs over the pig's head, and pour the onion-sauce round it ; or, if preferred, it may be served separately in a sauce-boat.

For making the Pig's Head into Brawn :

1. Salt and boil the pig^s head in the same way as above, from Note 1 to Note 8.

2. When the pig's head is sufficiently boiled, take it out of the saucepan and put it on a board.

3. Cut all the meat off the bones, and cut it into small pieces the shape of dice; also cut up the ear and the tongue (the tongue should be previously skinned).

4. Put the hones back into the saucepan, with a quart oi the liquor in which the head was boiled, forty pepper- corns, two Mades of mace, four cloves, and twelve allspice,

5. Add also a hunch of herhs (viz., a sprig of marjo- ram, thyme, and two hoA/deaves), tied tightly together.

6. Peel two onions, cut them in quarters, and put them in the saucepan.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire and let it come to a

ON COOKING MEAT. 83

boil ; then remove the lid, and let the liquor reduce for about half an hour,

8. Then strain the liquor into a basin.

9. Pour one pint and a half of the strained liquor back into the saucepan, and put it on the fire.

10. Now put the pieces of Tneat into the liquor, season it with pepper (and salt, if necessary) to taste, and let it come to boiling.

11. Rinse a basin or tin mould in cold water.

12. Then pour the meat and the liquor together into the wet basin or tin, and stand it aside to get cold and set.

13. For serving, turn the hrawn out of the basin on to a dish.

LESSON TENTH.

POKK PIE.

Ingredients. — One-quarter of a pound of lard. One pound of pork (either loin or leg). Seasoning. One pound of flour. One eg'g.

Time required, two hours and a half.

To make a Porh Pie :

1. Put a quarter of a pound of la/rd and a quarter of a pint of cold water into a large saucepan.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

N. B. — Watch it, as, if it boils over, it will catch fire.

3. Take one pound of lean porh (cut either from the loin or leg), put it on a board, and cut it in pieces about one inch square.

4. Put one pound of flour into a basin.

6. When the la/rd and water are quite boiling, pour them into the middle of the fljour, and mix them well with a spoon.

Si LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. When the paste is cool enough, knead it well with your hands.

N. B. — More water must not be added, as the paste is required to be rather stiff.

7. Take the jpaste out of the basin and put it on a floured board.

8. Cut off a quarter of the jpaste^ and mould the re- mainder into the shape of a hasin^ pressing it inside with one hand and supporting it outside with the other.

9. Shape it as evenly as possible, and it should be about one-third of an inch in thickness all round.

10. Take a knife, flour it, and cut the top of the shape level all round.

11. Dip the pieces of jporh into cold water, then season them well with j>epj)er and salt.

12. Put t\iQ&Q pieces inside the mould of paste, as close together as possible.

N. B. — The pie can be flavored, if liked, with chopped sage — about a teaspoonful — sprinkled well among the pieces of pork.

13. Take the remainder of the paste and roll it out with a floured rolling-pin, and cut it to the size of the top of the mould, and to about the thickness of one-third of a/n inch.

14. Takie an egg and break it into two cups, separating the yolh from the white.

15. Take a paste-brush, dip it into the white of egg, and egg the edge of the mould of paste.

16. Take the piece of paste and put it over the top of the pie, pressing the edges together with your thumb.

17. Cut little leaves out of the remaining paste, dip them in the white of egg, and stick them on the top of the pie.

ON COOKING MEAT. 85

18. Wet the pie all over with the yolk of egg.

19. Put the pie in a moderate oven, to bake for two hours.

LESSON ELEVENTH. SAUS AGE-KOLLS.

Ingredients. — One-half pound of cooked (or uncooked) meat. One pound of flour. One-half pound dripping. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Seasoning. One-half a shallot. One small onion, i'our sage-leaves. One egg.

Time required^ half an hour.

To make Sausage-Bolls :

1. Put half a pound of meat (cooked or uncooked) on a board, take away all the fat, and mince it up as fine as possible.

2. Put the mince-meat in a basin and season it well with pepper and salt.

3. Put four sage-leaves on a board and chop them up as fine as possible with a knife.

4. Peel half a shallot and one small onion, and chop them up on a board.

6. Mix the chopped sage, shallot, and onion well into the mince-meat with a spoon.

6. Put one pound of flour into a basin.

7. Add to it one teaspoonful of hahing-powder, a quar- ter of a salt-spoonful of salt, and half a pound of clari- fied dripping.

8. Rub the dripping well into the flour with your hands.

N. B. — Mix it thoroughly, and be careful not to leave any lumps.

9. Add enough water to the flmcr to make it into a stiff paste.

8g LESSONS IN COOKERY.

10. Flour the paste-board.

11. Turn the paste out on the board.

N. B. — Divide the paste in two, so as not to handle it too much.

12. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out each por- tion into a thin sheet, about one-eighth of an inch in thickness.

13. Cut ihe paste into pieces about six inches square.

14. Collect all the scraps of paste (so that none is wast- ed), fold them together, and roll them out and cut them into squares.

N. B. — There should be about one dozen squares of paste.

15. Put about a taUespoonful of the mince-meat and herbs into the centre of each square of paste.

16. Fold the paste round the meat^ joining it smoothly round the centre, and pressing the ends of the paste to- gether with your finger and thumb.

17. Take a baking-tin, grease it well, and place the sausage-rolls on it.

18. Break one egg on to a plate, and beat it slightly with a knife.

19. Take a paste-brush, dip it in the egg, and paint over the tops of the rolls.

20. Place the tin in a hot oven, to bake for fifteen min- utes, if the meat is already coolted / but if ram meat is used, then half an hour is required.

N. B. — ^Look at them once or twice, and turn them if necessary, so that they shall be equally baked.

21. For serving, take the rolls off the tin and place them on a hot dish.

ON COOKING MEAT. 87

lESSON TWELFTH.

SEA PIE.

In^edients. — Two pounds of buttock steak. Two onions. One small carrot. One-half a turnip. Pepper and salt. Three-quarters of a pound of flour. One-quarter of a pound of suet. One teaspoonful of baking- powder.

Time required^ two hxmr^.

To make Sea Pie :

1. Cut twojpov/nds of steak into thin slices on a board, with a sharp knife.

2. Peel two onions^ and slice them as thin as possible,

3. Take a small carrot and half a twrnip, wash them, scrape the carrot clean with a knife, peel the turnip, and cut them in thin slices.

4. Season the slices of meat with ^ej>per and salt to taste.

6. Put the slices of meat in layers in a two-quart saucepan, sprinkling a little of the sliced vegetables on each layer of the meat

6. Pour in enough cold water just to cover the meat.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, just bring it to the boil, and then move it to the side of the fire to simmer.

N. B. — During this time make the crust.

8. Take a quarter of a pound of suet, put it on a board, cut away all the sTcin^ and chop it up as fine as possible.

9. Sprinkle a little flour over the suet^ to prevent it sticking to the board or knife.

10. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a basin, and mix into it half a salt-spoonful of salt and one tea- spoonful of hakims-powder.

88 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

11. 'Now put in the chopped suet, and rub it well into the flour with your hands.

12. Add enough cold water to mix it into a stiff paste.

13. Flour a board and turn the paste out on it.

14. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste to the size of the saucepan.

15. This quantity of paste will roll out to the size of a two-quart saucepan, so that, if a smaller saucepan is used, less paste will be required.

16. Put this paste over the meat in the saucepan, and let it simmer gently for one hour and a half.

N. B. — The lid should be on the saucepan.

17. Watch it, and be careful to pass a knife round the sides of the saucepan, or the paste will stick.

N. B. — Sailors add sliced potatoes to the pie when they can get them.

18. For serving, carefully remove the crust, turn the meat, vegetables, and gravy on to a hot dish, and place the crust over it.

LESSON THIRTEENTH.

Ingredients.— One sheep's head. Salt. Four pepper-corns. Two turnips. One carrot. One onion. One-half a small head of celery. One sprig of thyme. Two sprigs of parsley. Toasted crusts of bread. Half an ounce of flour. One ounce of clarified dripping, or half an ounce of butter.

Time required (after the sheep's head has been soaked for two hours), one hour and a half.

To cook Sheep^s JEead :

1. Put in a basin of warm water a sheep's head (which has been chopped half-way through by a butcher), with a dessertspoonful of salt.

ON COOKrXG MEAT. 89

2. "Wash the head thoroughly, remove the brains (which should be put aside), and all the splinters of the hones.

3. Wash all the hlood and matter from the passages of the nose^ throaty and ears, and clean round the gums.

N. B. — If this is not well done, the sheep's head will be spoiled.

4. Now put the sheejps head in a basin of salt and water, to soak for two hours.

6. After the head has been soaked, take it out of the water and cut out the tongue with a knife.

6. Tie the head together with a piece of string, to keep it in shape.

7. Put the head and tongue in a large saucepan.

8. Pour in sufficient lukewarm water to cover the head.

9. Add a good salt-spoonful of salt and four pepper- corns.

N. B. — If liked, one ounce of pearl barley or rice, previously washed, may now be added.

10. Put the saucepan on the fire and let it boil very gently for one hour.

11. Watch it, and skim it occasionally with a spoon, removing as much of i}\Qfat as possible.

12. Take two turnips, wash them in cold water, peel them, and cut them in quarters with a sharp knife.

13. Take a carrot, scrape it clean with a knife, and cut it in pieces.

14. Take a good-sized onion, peel it, and cut it in quar- ters.

15. Take half a small head of celery and two sprigs of parsley, and wash them in cold water.

16. When the sheep's head has boiled for an hour^ add all these vegetables.

90 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

17. Add also one sprig of thyme.

18. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for one hour and a half,

N. B. — The lid should be on the saucepan.

19. Half an hour before the sheep's head is finished, wash the hrams well in cold water (removing all the skin).

20. Tie the drains up in a piece of muslin and put them in the saucepan with the head, to boil for ten minutes.

21. Put OTie ounce of clarified drijypingy or half an ounce of hutter, into a small saucepan.

22. Put the saucepan on the fire, to melt the dripping^ and then add half an ounce of flour, and mix them well together with a spoon.

23. Take one gill of troth from the saucepan in which the head is boiling, and add it by degrees to the sauce^ stirring it as smoothly as possible until it boils and thickens.

24. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire.

25. When the trains have boiled for ten minutes, take them out of the saucepan, take them out of the muslin, and chop them up in small pieces with a knife.

26. Add the trains to the sauce.

27. "When the sheep's head is sufficiently cooked, take it out of the saucepan, cut away the string, and place it on a warm dish.

28. Take the tongue, skin it carefully, and place it on the same dish.

29. Take out the turnips, put them in a basin, and mash them with a fork.

30. Take out the ca/rrot, and arrange it alternately with the mashed turnips round the sheep's head.

31. Take the train-sauce and pour it over the sheep's head.

ON COOKING MEAT. 91

32. Pour the hroth carefully into a basin, without the bread or vegetahles.

N. B. — Bread or vegetables should never be kept in broth, as they would turn it sour.

33. Put the basin of broth arwaj until required for use.

N. B. — ^AU the fat should be removed from the broth before it is used. N. B. — When the broth is required for use, a few toasted crusts of

bread might be added, and a little chopped parsley. N. B. — The fat from the broth should be melted down into dripping.

If the Sheep^s Head be preferred browned :

1. Proceed as above (see from Note 1 to Note 17).

2. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for one hour.

N. B. — The lid should be on the saucepan.

3. Take a piece of stale breads and grate a tahlesjpoon- ful of bread-crumbs with a grater.

4. Mix with these crumbs a teaspoonful ofjpa/rsley and a teasjpoonful of mixed herbs, chopped fine.

5. When the head has simmered for one hour^ take it out of the saucepan.

6. Cut the string round it, and lay it on a dish.

7. Sprinkle the bread-crumbs and herbs over the head, and put a few tiny pieces of dripping on it.

8. Put the dish in the oven, or in front of the fii'e, for ten OT fifteen minutes. It will then be ready for serving.

9. Take the brains and wash them well in cold water (removing all skin).

10. Tic them up in a piece of muslin and put them in the saucepan of broth (in which the sheep's head was boiled), to boil for ten minutes.

N. B. — For serving, the tongue should be skinned, as above, and served separately with the brain-sauce {see above, from Note 21 to Note 2'7).

11. Proceed with the broth the same as above, from Note 32.

92 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON FOURTEENTH.

STEWED STEAK.

Ingredients. — One pound of rump steak. One carrot. One turnip. Two sticks of celery. One onion. One ounce of butter. One tablespoonful of flour. Pepper and salt.

71,me required, about one hour.

To Stew a SteaJc (either beef or rump — the latter is more tender) :

1. Put one pound of rurrip sieaJc, one and a half mch in thickness, on a board.

2. Cut off all the skin and fat from the steaJc.

3. Wash one carrot, one turnip, and a few celery-leaves, in cold water.

4. Scrape the carrot clean with a sharp knife.

6. Cut the turnip in half (as not all will be required), and peel off the outside skin.

6. Peel the carrot and turnip into thin ribbons with a sharp knife, leaving just the centre of each vegetable.

7. Peel one onion and put it on a board.

8. Shred the onion and celery.

9. Put one ounce of 'butter in a stewpan, and lay the steak in it to brown.

10. Put the onion, celery, and the remains of the car- rot and turnip, after peeling, into the stewpan with the steak.

11. Put the stewpan on the fire.

12. Look occasionally at the steaJc, and when it is suffi- ciently browned on one side, turn it carefully over, to brown the other.

13. When the steak is sufficiently browned on both sides, then put in the vegetables.

ON COOKING MEAT. 93

14. Take a basin and put in it a tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and mix them together with a wooden spoon, and one pint of water or stock.

15. Stir them all well together into a smooth soAzce.

16. Pour this sauce into the stewpan with the steaJc and vegetables, and stir all together until it boils and thickens.

17. Let it gently simmer one hour.

18. Take the fat which you have cut off the steah, and cut it into small pieces.

19. Put the pieces of fat on a tin dish.

20. Put the fat in the oven to cook till brown.

N. B. — It is better for stewed steak to cook the fat separately, as it keeps the gravy of the steak free from grease.

21. Take the thin peelings from the carrot and turnip, and put them on a board and shred them finely with a sharp knife.

22. Put these shredded vegetoMes into a small saucepan, with about a gill of cold water.

23. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil until the vegetables are quite tender when tried with a fork.

24. When the steah is sufficiently stewed, put it on a hot dish.

25. Take a strainer and strain the gravy, in which the steah has-been stewed, over the stealc.

26. The stewed vegetables must be thrown away, as all the goodness is out of them.

27. Take the tin dish out of the oven, and place the pieces of fat about on the stealc.

28. Take the boiled shredded vegetables and garnish the steak with them.

N. B. — Any other vegetables can be used for garnishing — ^i. e., peas, French beans, asparagus, etc.

94: LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON FIFTEENTH.

TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE.

Ingredients. — Six ounces of flour. One egg. One pint of milk. One and a half pound of meat (beef or mutton). Seasoning.

Time required, about one hour and three-quarters.

To make Toad-m-the-ITole :

1. Put six ounces of flour into a basin, with half a salt-spoonful of salt.

2. Break one egg into the fl^ur, and stir in smoothly, and by degrees, one pint of milk.

N. B. — ^Be careful that it is not lumpy.

3. Beat it up as much as possible, as it will make the hatter lighter.

4. Take one pound of meat, put it on a board, and cut it in neat pieces.

N. B. — Buttock steak, beef skirt, or any pieces of mutton, might be used ; for instance, the short bones from the neck of mutton. Sausages or cold meat might very well be used.

5. Take a pie-dish, or a tin, and grease it inside with clarified dripping.

6. Season the pieces of meat with pepper and salt, and place them in the greased dish.

7. Pour the hatter over the meat, and put the dish in the oven to bake for one hour.

8. After that time it is ready for serving.

CHAPTER VIII. COOKIJVG POULTRY.

LESSON FIRST.

TRUSSING A FOWL FOE ROASTING.

Ingredients. — One fowl. One ounce of butter. One large roll. One onion. Half a pint of milk. Five pepper-coms. Salt. One tablespoon- ful of cream.

Time required^ db<mt three-quarters of an hour.

To prepare a Fowl and Truss it for Roasting :

1. Take a suitable fowl that has been already plucked, and put it on a board.

2. Turn t\iQfowl on its breast, and make an incision of an inch long down the neck, three inches below the head.

3. Pass your thumb round this incision, and loosen the skin.

4. Take a sharp knife and pu^ it under the shim^^ and cut off the neck as low down as possible.

5. Be careful, in cutting off the neck, to leave a piece of skin to fold over on to the back of the neck and cover the opening.

6. Take out the crop, which lies in the front of the neck.

96 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. Then, with your finger, loosen the liver and the other parts at the breast-end.

8. Now turn the fowl round, and make an incision at the vent, about one inch and a half wide.

9. Put your hand through this incision into the body, and draw out all the interiors carefully, so as not to mess the fowl,

10. Be very careful not to break the gall-bag, or the li/cer will be spoiled.

N. B. — Take the liver^ hearty and gizzard^ and put them in a basin of water, with about half a teaspoonful of salt ; the other interiors should be thrown away.

N. B. — Look through the fowl from one end to the other, and see that it is perfectly cleared out.

11. Take a damp cloth and wipe out the inside of the fowly to clean it thoroughly.

N. B. — If the fowl is not quite fresh, use a little vinegar and water on the cloth in cleaning it, and then take a clean cloth and wipe it quite dry.

12. Take a sharp knife and cut off the claws from the legs of the fowl.

13. Take a basin of boiling water, and hold the ends of the legs of \hQfowl in the water for a minute or two.

14. Then take off the outside sMn as far as to the first joint.

16. Take a twist of paper, or a taper, and light it.

16. Take the fowl up by its legs, and hold the lighted paper under it, to singe off the little hairs.

17. Then hold the fowl up by its wings and singe the other end.

N. B, — Be careful, in singeing, not to blacken or mark the fowl in any way.

18. Turn the fowl on its breast, and draw tightly the breast-skin over the incision on to the back of the neck.

COOKING POULTRY. 97

19. Cross the ends of the wings over the back of the neck.

20. JS'ow turn the fowl on its back, with the neck toward you.

21. Take a trussing-needle and thread it with fine twine.

22. Hold the legs up and press the thighs well into the sides of the fowl^ forcing the breast up, to give the fowl a good shape.

23. Take the threaded trussing-needle and pass it through the bottom of one thigh, through the body, and out on the other side through the other thigh.

N. B. — If liked, a part of the gizzard and livcr^ when cleaned {see note at the end of " Trussing a Fowl for Boiling "), can be put into the wings of the fowl.

24. Kow turn the fowl on its breast, and take the threaded trussing-needle again and pass it through the middle of the pinion or wing, through the little bone called the sidesman or step-mother's wing, catching up the skin which folds over the incision, and out through the other little bone and wing.

25. Pull this twine very tightly, and tie it as firmly as possible at the side of the fowl.

26. Turn the fowl over on its back, keeping the neck still toward you.

27. Put your finger in the incision (made for drawing the/b^^Z), and lift up the end of the breast-bone.

28. Take the threaded trussing-needle and pass it through the skin over the bottom of the breast-bone, over the end of one leg, back through the body close to the back-bone, and tie it firmly over the other leg at the side.

N. B. — If there is no gravy ready for serving with the roast fowl, prepare it now (see note at the end).

98 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

29. !N"ow put the tin oven, with the jack and dripping- pan, before the fire.

80. Make up the fire in the same manner as described in "Boasting."

N. B. — You do not require such a large fire as for roasting meat.

31. Take the trussed fowl, and pass the hook of the jack through the back of the fowl, and hang it up on the jack.

N. B. — If the fire is very fierce, you should take a piece of whity- brown paper, butter it, and tie it over the fowl, so as to prevent it from burning.

32. Put one ounce of butter in the dripping-pan to melt.

33. Use this melted butter to baste the fowl ; as the fowl is not very fat, there will not be much dripping from it.

34. The fowl will take from half an hour to three-quar- ters of an hour to roast, according to its size.

35. Baste the fowl frequently.

36. When the fowl is quite done, take it off the jack and put it on a hot dish.

37. Take a knife and cut the twine, and draw it all out of the fowl, and take off the paper before serving.

For making Bread-Sauce :

1. Take a French penny-roll and cut it in half.

2. Pull out all the inside crumb and put it on a plate.

3. Pull this crurrib apart into small pieces.

N. B. — If a French roll cannot be procured, bread-crumbs can be used instead — about one ounce and a half.

4. Take a small onion and peel it with an onion-knife.

6. Take a small stewpan and put in it the peeled onion. ^. V owe m half a pint of milk,

7. JS'ow put in the crumb of the roll.

8. KA^ five pepper-corns^ and salt to taste.

COOKING POULTRY. 99

9. Stand the stewpan aside, with the lid on, for a quarter of an hour, to soak the crumb.

10. After that time, put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the sauce smoothly with a wooden spoon, until it boils.

11. Now add a tablesjpoonful of cream, and stir the sauce until it just boils again.

12. Before serving the sauce, take out the onion, and then pour it into a sauce-tureen.

N. B. — ^The neck^ gizzard, liver, and claws of the fowl, when properly prepared {see note at the end of " Trussing a Fowl for Boiling "), can be used for soup or gravy, to be served with the roast foiol. For making the gravy, put the giblets into a saucepan, with enough water to cover them (about half a pint) ; also add half an onion (peeled), six pepper-corns, and salt to taste. Put the saucepan on the fire, and, when it comes to the boil, move it to the side, to simmer while the fowl is roasting.

N. B.-^For serving, strain the gravy into a basin, and color it, if necessary, by stirring in a quarter of a teaspoonf ul of " Liehig^s Extract,^'' or ten or twelve drops of caramel {see note at the end of " Australian Meat," Lesson No. 2, " Brown Pur6e ") ; then pour it in a sauce-tureen, or round the/ow?.

LESSON SECOND. TRUSSING A FOWL FOR BOILING.

Ingredients. — One fowl. One and a quarter ounce of butter. Stock or water. One carrot. One small onion. A bouquet of herbs. Two eggs. One ounce of flour. One-half a pint of milk. A gill of cream.

Time required, about one hour and a quarter.

To prepare a Fowl and Truss it for Boiling :

1. Take a fowl that has been already plucked and put it on a board.

2. Prepare it and clean it in the same way as de- scribed in " Trussing a Fowl for Boasting," from Note 1 to I^ote 12.

100 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

3. Take a sharp knife and cut off the claws and the ends of the legs of \he,fowl^ to the first joint.

4. Take a twist of paper, or taper, and light it.

6. Take the fowl up by its legs, and hold the lighted paper under it, to singe off the little hairs.

6. Then hold the fowl up by its wings and singe the other end.

N. B. — Be careful, in singeing, not to blacken or mark the fowl in any way.

7. Turn ih^fowl on its back, with the tail toward you.

8. Put your hands through the incision (made for drawing the fowT)^ and pass two fingers round the inside of the leg, so as to loosen the outside skin.

9. Draw this outside skin right off the legs, and press the legs well into the sides of the fowl^ forcing the breast up, so as to give ih.Q fowl a good shape.

10. Pull this outside skin, and turn it neatly inside the fowl, over the joints of the legs.

11. Turn the fowl on its breast, and draw tightly the breast-skin over the incision on to the back of the neck.

12. Cross the ends of the wings over the back of the neck.

13. Now turn the fowl on its back, with the neck toward you.

14. Take a trussing-needle and thread it with fine twine.

15. Take the threaded trussing-needle and pass it through the bottom of one thigh, through the body, and out on the other side through the other thigh.

16. Now turn the fowl on its breast, and take the threaded trussing-needle again and pass it through the middle of the pinion or wing, through the little bone called the sidesman or step-mother's wing, catching up

COOKING POULTRY. 101

the skin whicli folds over the incision, and out through the other little bone and wing.

17. Pull, this twine very tightly, and tie it as firmly as possible at the side of i\iefowl.

18. Turn the fowl over on its back, keeping the neck still toward you.

19. Put your finger in the incision (made for drawing i\\Qfowl)^ and lift up the end of the breast-bone.

20. Take the threaded trussing-needle and pass it through the skin over the bottom of the breast-bone, over one leg, back through the body close to the back-bone, and tie it firmly over the other leg at the side.

21. Take a piece of kitchen-paper and butter it well.

22. Take this piece of buttered paper and wrap it well round i\iQfowl.

23. Take a large saucepan half full of hot second white stock or water, and put it on the fire.

N. B. — The reason why second white stock should be used is, that the goodness which comes from the fowl after boiling adds to the good- ness of this stock, which can afterward be used for soup.

N. B. — If hot water is used, the goodness which comes from the fowl after boiling is only wasted, as it is not of sufficient strength to make the large quantity of water of any use.

24. When the water is quite boiling, place the fowl in the saucepan, with its breast downward.

25. Put into the saucepan one carrot which has been scraped, a small onion which has been peeled, and a bouquet of herbs, for flavoring.

26. The fowl will take from three-quarters of an hour to one hour to boil, according to its size.

To make the Egg-Sauce to be served with the Boiled Fowl:

1. Take a small saucepan full of hot water, and put it on the fire to boil.

102 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. When the water is quite boiling, put in two eggs to boil for ten minuteSo

3. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of hutter and one ounce of flour.

4. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon.

5. Pour in half a pint of milk,

6. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture with a wooden spoon until it boils and thickens.

7. Then remove the stewpan to the side of the fire until required for use.

8. When the eggs are sufficiently boiled, take them carefully out of the saucepan with a spoon.

9. Knock the eggs against the edge of a basin, to break off all the shell.

10. Take a small basin of cold water.

11. Cut the eggs in half and take out the yolks.

12. Put the whites into cold water, to prevent their turning yellow.

13. Take the whites of the eggs out of the water and cut them to the shape of small dice.

14. Add the pieces of white of ^gg to the sauce in the stewpan.

15. IS'ow add one gill of cream to the sauce.

16. Move the stewpan to the centre of the fire, and stir well till it boils again.

N. B. — Be careful, in stirring, not to break the pieces of egg.

17. When the fowl is sufficiently boiled, take it out of the stewpan ; take off the buttered paper, and place the foiol on a hot dish.

18i With a knife cut the twine, and draw it all out of ^^fowl.

19. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pour the scmce over the yb^oZ.

COOKING POULTRY. 103

20. Take a wire sieve, with the hard-boiled yoTks of the eggs^ place it over the fowl^ and rub the yolks through on to the breast.

N. B. — The neck, gizzard, liver, heart, and claws of the fowl — namely, the gihleU — should be put aside, and, when properly prepared, can be used for soup {see " Soups," Lesson Sixth), or should be put in the stock-pot

N. B. — To clean and prepare the giblets for use :

A. — Take the gizzard^ cut it very carefully with a knife down the cen- tre, where there is a sort of seam (be sure only to cut the first or outer skin), and draw off the outer skin without breaking the in- side, which should be thrown away.

B. — Take the outer skin of the gizzard^ the hearty and liver^ wash them well in water, and dry them in a cloth.

C. — Take the neck^ cut off the head^ which is of no use, draw the skin off the neck, and wash the latter well in water, so as to remove the blood and any impurities.

D. — Put the claws and ends of legs in a basin of boiling water for some minutes ; then take a knife, cut off the nailsy and draw off the ovier skin^ which can be pulled off like a glove.

CHAPTER IX. STOCK AJTD SOUPS.

LESSON PIRST.

STOCK.

Ingredients. — ^Four pounds of shin of beef, or two pounds of knuckle of veal, and two pounds of beef. Four young carrots, or two old ones. One turnip. One onion. One leek. Half a head of celery. Salt.

l^ime required^ about five hours. It should he made the day before it is re- quired for use.

To make StocJc for Soup :

1. Take fov/r pounds of shin of heef and put it on a board.

2. Cut off all the meat from tlie bone with a sharp knife.

3. Cut off all the fat from the meat. (Put it aside for other purposes.)

4. Take a chopper and break the bone in half.

5. Take out all the marrow and put it aside for other uses.

N. B. — If the fat and marrow were to go into the stock, it would make it greasy.*

6. Take a stock-pot, or a large stewpan, and put the meat and hone into it.

' Which is no great matter, as appears from 21.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 105

7. Pour in five pmts of cold water.

N. B. — One pint of water is allowed for each pound of meat, and one pint over.^

8. Put in half a teaspoonful of salt. This will assist the scum to rise.

9. Put the stock-pot on the fire with the lid on, and let it come to the boil quickly.

10. Take four yoimg carrots^ scrape them clean with a knife, and cut them in pieces.

11. Take one turnijp and one onion, peel them, and cut them in quarters.

12. Take a leek and half a head of celery ^ and wash them well in cold water.

13. Take a spoon and remove the scum from the stock as it yises.

14i ]N^ow put in all the 'vegetables, and let it simmer gently iov five hours.

15. Watch and skim it occasionally, and add a little cold water, to make the scum rise.

16. Take a clean cloth and put it over a good-sized basin.

17. Put a hair-sieve on the top of the cloth over the basin.

18. When the stoclc has been simmering for five hours, take the stock-pot off the fire.

19. Pour the contents into the sieve which contains the meat, lone, and vegetables ; and the cloth very effectually strains the stoclc.

N. B. — The meat and bone can be used again, with the addition of fresh vegetables and water, and you thus make what is called second stock."

» One pint of water extra is added to every two quarts, on account of evaporation.

^ Second stock cannot be used for clear soup unless it is first clarified, as shown in Lesson Third.

106 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

20. Take the basin (into which the stock has been strained) and put it in a cool place till the next day, when it will be a stiff jelly.

21. When this stock-jelly is required for use, take off the hardened fat from the top with a spoon.

22. Take a clean cloth and dip it in hot water, and wipe over the top of the jelly, to remove every particle of fat.

23. Now take a clean dry cloth, and wipe the top of the jelly dry.

N. B. — This is brown stock ; but for some soups and purees, as well as for many other purposes, white stock is required. This is made in the same way, only with veal instead of beef. It can also be made of veal and beef mixed, or rabbit and beef ; but veal alone is con- sidered best.

LESSON SECOND.

VEGETABLE STOCK.

Ingredients. — One cabbage. Three large or six small onions. Two carrots. One turnip. Two ounces of butter. Three cloves. Thirty pepper-corns. A bunch of herbs (thyme, marjoram, and a bay-leaf). Salt.

Time required^ about two hmtrs and a quarter.

To make Vegetable Stock :

1. Take one cabbage^ wash it well in cold water, and cut it in quarters.

2. Take two carrots^ wash them, scrape them clean, and cut them in quarters.

3. Take one turnip, peel it, and cut it in quarters.

4. Take three la/rge or six small onions and wash them clean. (The skins are to be left on.)

5. Put all these vegetables into a saucepan, with two oimces of butter.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 107

6. Add a hunch of herbs (namely, a s^ig of thyme, marjoram^ and a hay-leaf), tied tightly together, three cloves, and thirty pepper-corns.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let the vegetables and herbs sweat in the butter for ten minutes. Stir them, to prevent burning.

8. Kow pour in three qua/rts of cold water, and add salt according to taste.

9. When the water boils, move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for two hours. Watch it, and skim it occasionally.

10. After that time, strain the stoch into a basin, and it is ready for use. It is now reduced to two quarts and one-half a pint.

K B. — This stock can be used for thick vegetable soups.

LESSON THIRD. CLEAR SOUP.

Ingredients. — Two quarts of stock. Three-quarters of a pound of gravy- beef. Two carrots. Two turnips. One and one-half a leek. One cab- bage-lettuce. One tablespoonf ul of young peas. Salt. One lump of sugar.

Time required {the stock should be made the day before)^ about one hour and a half.

To make Clear Soup :

1. Take two quarts of stock ^ {see Lesson First on " Stock "), and be careful to remove from it all fat.

* This lesson only applies to second stock, or stock that, for any reason, has become turbid. Stock carefully made by the directions in Lesson First on *' Stock " is already clear, if a little care is taken to separate the sediment at the bottom of the jelly. It is only second stock, or stock made from odds and ends of meat and bones, cooked and uncooked, that requires to be clarified.

108 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Put the stock into a stewpan.

3. Take three-quarters of a pound of gravy-beef (from the shin of beef), put it on a board, and cut off all the fat and skin with a sharp knife.

4. Chop the beef up very fine.

N.B. — The proportion of beef for clarifying stock is one pound to every five pounds of meat with which the stock is made.

5. Put the chopped gravy-leef into the stewpan.

6. Take one carrot, one turnip, and one leek, and wash them well in cold water.

7. Take the vegetables out of the water and put them on a board.

8. Take a sharp knife and scrape the carrot quite clean, and slice it up.

9. Take the turnvp, peel it, and cut it in small pieces.

10. Take the leek and cut off part of the long green leaves and the little straggling roots, and chop up the remainder fine.

11. Put all these vegetables into the stewpan, and stir them with an iron spoon until they are well mixed with the heef and stock.

12. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the contents till boiling begins.

13. Now take a large spoon and carefully skim the surface.

14. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes.

15. Take a clean soup-cloth and fix it on the soup-stand.^

16. Take a large basin and place it below the cloth.

^ A soup-stand is easily improvised by turning bottom upward a seat which has no back, and tying the four comers of your napkin to the ends of its four legs.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 109

17. Take the stewpan oS the fire and pour the contents into the cloth, and let it all pass into the basin.

N. B. — The chopped gravy-beef acts as a filter to the soup.

18. After the soup has all passed through, remove the basin and put a clean one in its place.

19. Take a soup-ladle and pour a little of the soup at a time over the meat in the cloth, and let it pass through very slowly.

N. B. — Be careful not to disturb the deposit of chopped beef which

settles at the bottom of the cloth. N. B. — If savory custard is preferred in the soup instead of shredded

vegetables, see No. 31.

20. Take a small carrot, turnip, half a leek, cdbhage-let- tuce, and a tahlespoonful of young peas, and wash them in cold water.

21. Put the vegetables on a board, scrape the ca/rrot clean, peel the turnip with a sharp knife, and cut off all the outside leaves of the lettuce, and the long green leaves of the leeTc.

22. Shred the carrot, turnip, leek, and cabbage-lettuce very finely in equal lengths.

23. Put the shredded carrot, turnip, and leek into a small saucepan of cold water, with half a salt-spoonful of salt.

24. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it just come to the boil.

N. B. — ^This is to blanch the vegetables.

25. Take the saucepan off the fire, and strain the water from the vegetables.

26. Take a stewpan and put in the blanched vegetables and cabbage-lettuce and peas ; add a lump of sugar and half a pint of the clea^ soup.

110 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

27. Put tlie stewpan on the fire, to boil fast, and reduce tlie soujp to a glaze over the vegetables.

28. Take the basin of strained soup^ and pour the soup on the vegetables in the stewpan, and let it just boil.

29. Then remove the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it boil gently for half an hour.

30. For serving, pour the soup into a hot soup-tureen.

FOR SAVORY CUSTARD. Ingredients. — Two eggs. Butter.

31. Take the yolks of two eggs and the white of one^ and put them in a small basin.

32. Add one gill of the clear soup and a quarter of a saltrsjpoonful of salt.

33. Whisk up the eggs and the stock well together.

34. Take a small gallipot ^ and butter it inside.

35. Pour the mixture into the gallipot.

36. Take a piece of whity-brown paper and butter it.

37. Put this buttered paper over the top of the gallipot, and tie it on with a piece of string.

38. Take a saucepan of hot water and put it on the fire.

39. When the water is quite boiling, stand the little gallipot in it.

N. B.— The water must not quite reach the paper with which the gal- lipot is covered.

40. Draw this saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer for a qua/rter of am^ hour,

N. B. — ^It must not boil, or the custard will be spoiled.

41. Take the gallipot out of the saucepan, take off the 1 Any earthen cup or bowl that will stand fire will do equally well.

STOCK AND SOUPS. HI

buttered paper, and turn the custard out on to a plate to cool.

42. Cut the custard into small pieces the shape of diamonds.

43. Just before serving, pour the soup into the hot tureen, and add the savory custa/rd to the son^.

LESSON FOURTH.

TAPIOCA CREAM.

Ingredients. — One pint of white stock. One ounce of tapioca. Yolks of two eggs. Two tablespoonfuls of cream or good milk. Pepper and salt.

Time required {the stock should be made the day before\ abovi a quarter of an hour.

To make Tajpioca Cream :

1. Take one pint of white stock {see Lesson on " Stock ") and pour it in a stewpan.

2. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil.

3. Take one ounce of prepared tapioca.

4. When the white stock boils, stir in gradually the tapioca.

5. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it all simmer until the tapioca is quite clear.

6. ITow prepare the liaison.

7. Put the yolks of two eggs in a basin, and add to them two tablespoonfuls of cream or good milk.

8. Just stir it with a wooden spoon, and then pour the mixture through a strainer into another basin.

9. Kow take the stewpan with the white stock off the fire, and stand it on a piece of paper, or wooden trivet, on the^table.

10. "When the stock is cooled a little, add, by degrees,

112 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

two or three tablespoonfuls of it to the liaison^ stirring well all the time.

N. B. — Be careful that the eggs do not curdle.

11. ]^ow add this mixture to the remainder of the stock in the stewpan, and stir well.

12. Add pepper and salt to the soup, according to taste.

13. Place the stewpan of soup on the fire, to warm before serving.

N. B. — ^It must not boil. For serving, pour it into a hot soup-tureen.

LESSON PIFTH.

BONNE FEMME SOTJP.

Ingredients* — Two lettuces. Two leaves of sorrel. Four sprigs of tarra- gon. Four sprigs of chervil. One-half a cucumber. Half an ounce of butter. Salt. One salt-spoonful of sugar. One and one-half pint of white stock. The yolks of three eggs. One gill of cream or milk. The crust of a French roU.

Time required {the stock should he made the day hefore\ about half an hour.

To make Bonne Femme Soup :

1. Take two lettuces^ two leaves of sorrel, four sprigs of tarragon, fo\ir sjprigs of chervil, and wash them well in cold water.

2. Take these vegetables and herhs out of the water, put them upon a board, and shred them finely.

3. Take a cucumber and cut it in half.

4. Peel half the cucumber and cut it up in thin slices, and then shred it with a sharp knife.

5. Put half an ounce of butter in a stewpan, and put it on the fire to melt.

6. Place all the shredded vegetdbles and herbs in the stewpan, to sweat iorfive minutes.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 113

7. Sprinkle over them half a salt-spoonful of salt and a salt-spoonful of castor sugar.^

8. Watch it occasionally, as the vegetables must not burn, or in any way discolor.

9. Take a jmit and a half of white stock {see Lesson on " Stock ") and put it in another saucepan.

10. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

11. Now make a liaison.

12. Take the yolks of three eggs, put them in a basin, and beat them well.

13. Stir in one gill of cream or milk.

14. When the stoch is quite boiling, pour it into the stewpan with the vegetables, and let all boil gently for ten minutes, until the vegetables are quite tender.

15. After that time, take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

16. Take a French roll and cut off all the crust.

17. Put the crust on a tin, and put it in the oven to dry for a minute or two.

18. When the stoGk\^^ cooled a little, stir in the lia^ son, straining it through a hair-sieve into the stewpan.

19. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire, to keep warm until required for use.

N. B. — Do not let it boil, as, now the liaison is added, it would curdle.

20. Take the tin out of the oven and turn the dried crust on to a board.

21. Cut this crust into small pieces, and into any fancy shape, according to taste.

22. Place these pieces of crust in a hot soup-tureen, and pour the soup over them.

* Ordinary pulverized sugar.

114: LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SIXTH.

PUREE OF POTATOES.

Ingredients. — One pound of potatoes. One small onion. Two leaves of celery. One ounce of butter. One and one-half pint of white stock. Salt. One gill of cream. Fried bread.

Time required {the stock shovM he made the day hefore\ ahortt three-qtiarters of an hour.

To make a Puree of Potatoes :

1. Take one pound of potatoes^ put them in a basin of cold water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush.

2. Take a sharp knife and peel the potatoes, and cut them in thin slices.

3. Take a small onion, wash it well in cold water, and peel it.

4. Take two leaves of celery and wash them.

5. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of hutter,

6. Now add the sliced potatoes, the onion, and the celery.

7. Put the stewpan on the fire and let the vegetables sweat iovfve minutes / take care that they do not discolor.

8. Pour into the stewpan one pint of white stocJc, and stir frequently with a wooden spoon, to prevent it from burning.

9. Let it boil gently till the vegetables are quite cooked.

10. Put half a pint of white stock into a stewpan, and put it on the fire to heat.

11. IS^ow place a tammy-sieve over a basin, and pass the contents of the stewpan through the sieve with a wooden spoon, adding, by degrees, the half pint of hot white stock, which will enable it to pass through more easily.

12. Take the stewpan and wash it out.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 115

13. Pour the puree back into the stewpan.

14. Add salt according to taste, and one gill of crewm^ and stir smoothly with a wooden spoon until it boils.

16. For serving, pour it into a hot soup-tureen.

N. B. — ^Fried bread, cut in the shape of dice, should be served with the pur6e {see "Vegetables," Lesson Eighth, from Note 13 to 17).

LESSON SEVENTH.

SPRING VEGETABLE SOUP.

Ingredients* — Two pounds of the shin of beef. Two pounds of the knuckle of veal. Salt. Two young carrots. One young turnip. One leek. Half a head of celery. One cauliflower. One gill of peas. One-quarter of a salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda.

Time required for making^ ahovijive hours.

To make two quarts of Spring Yegetahle Sowp :

1. Take two pounds of shin ofheef2iji^ two povAnds of Tcnuckle of vealy and put them on a board.

2. Cut off all the meat from the bone with a sharp knife.

3. Cut off all the fat from the meat. (Put the fat aside for other purposes.)

4. Take a chopper and break the hones in halves.^

5. Take out all the marrow inside the hones^ and put it aside for other uses.

N. B. — If the fat and marrow were to go into the soup, they would make it greasy.

6. Take a stock-pot, or a large stewpan, and put the meat and hones into it.

7. Pour in. fve pints of cold water.

^ The butcher will always do this for a customer.

116 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

8. Put in a teaspoonful of salt. This will assist the scum to rise.

9. Put the stock-pot on the fire, with the lid on, and let it come to the boil quickly.

10. Take a spoon and remove all the seum as it rises.

11. ISTow draw the stock-pot rather to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently iorjwe hours.

12. Take two young ca/rrots, scrape them clean with a knife, and cut them in slices.

13. Take one young turnip, peel it, and cut it in slices.

14. Take half a head of celery and one leek, wash them well in cold water, and cut them in squares with a knife.

15. Take one cauliflower, wash it in cold water, and put it in a basin of cold water, with a dessertspoonful of salt, for two or three minutes.

16. Then take the cauliflower out of the water and squeeze it dry in a cloth.

17. Take a knife and cut off all the green leaves and the stalks from the camliflower, and pull the flower into sprigs.

18. Watch and skim the soup occasionally, and you should add a little cold water, to make the scum rise.

19. One hour before serving the soup, add the vege- tables.

20. You first put in the sliced ca/rrots and the cut-up celery and leeTc. (These vegetables take the longest to boil.)

21. In half an hour add the sliced turnips, and, fifteen minutes after that, the cut-up fiower of the cauliflower.

22. Take a saucepan full of hot water, and put it on the fire to boil.

23. "When the water is quite boiling, put in one gill of shelled peas, &> teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a

STOCK AND SOUPS. 117

salt-spoonful of ca/rbonate of soda^ and let it boil from fif- teen to twenty mmutes, according to the age of the peas.

N. B. — The cover should be off the saucepan.

24. After that time try the peas, and, if they are quite soft, take them out of the saucepan and drain them in a colander.

25. For serving, put the boiled peas into a hot soup- tureen, and ladle the soup, and the other vegetables from the stock-pot, out into the tureen.

LESSON EIGHTH.

GEBLET SOUP.

Ingredients. — Two sets of giblets. One-quarter of a head of celery. One carrot. One turnip. Two small onions. Two cloves. One blade of mace. A bouquet garni of parsley, thyme, lemon-thyme, basil, marjoram, and bay-leaf. Two quarts of second white stock. One and a half ounce of clarified butter. One ounce of flour. Half a pint of Madeira. Thirty drops of lemon-juice. A few grains of Cayenne pepper. Salt.

Time required {the stock should he made the day before), ahond three hours and a half.

To make GiUet Soup :

1. Take two sets of goose or four of ducTc giUets, scald and skin the claws, ends of legs, etc., and wash them clean in cold water {see note for " Cleaning Giblets," at the end of Lesson on " Trussing a Fowl for Boiling ").

2. You should put them into boiling water, to blanch them, iovfi/ve 7)%inutes.

3. Then lay them in a basin of cold water, and wash and scrape them clean.

4. Take them out of the water and drain them.

6. Take a knife and cut the giblets in pieces, to about one amd a half inch in length.

118 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Put tlie pieces of giblet into a stewpan.

7. Take a qua/rter of a head of celery and wash it well in cold water.

8. Take one carrot, wash it in cold water, and scrape it clean with a knife.

9. Take one turnip and two small onions, wash them in cold water, and peel them.

10. Add these vegetables to the giblets in the stewpan.

11. Also put in tnjoo cloves, one blade of mace, and a bouquet garni, consisting of parsley, one sprig of thyme, lemon-thyme, basil, marjoram, and one bay-leaf, all tied tightly together.

12. Pour in two quarts of second white stoch.

13. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let it boil gently for two hours / skim it occasionally.

14. After that time, take out the best pieces of the gib- lets and trim them neatly.

16. Put these pieces aside until required for use.

16. Leave the stewpan on the fire, to boil for half an hour.

17. Put an ounce and a half of clarified butter and one ounce of four into a stewpan.

18. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let the flour and butter fry for a few minutes, stirring it well with a wooden spoon.

19. Now add the stoclc, and stir it well until it boils.

20. I^ow remove the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it boil gently for twenty minutes. (The cover of the saucepan should be only half on.)

21. After that time, take a spoon and carefully skim off all the butter that will have risen to the top of the soup.

22. ]S"ow strain the soup into a basin ; add to it half a pint of Madeira, thirty drops of lemon-juice, a few grains of Cayenne pepper, and salt according to taste.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 119

23. For serving, pour the soujp into a hot soup-tureen, and add to it the pieces of giblet that were put aside. N.B. — ^If disliked, the wine may be omitted.

LESSON NINTH. MOCK-TURTLE SOUP.

Ingredients. — Half a calf's head. Three ounces of butter. Half a table- spoonful of salt. One-quarter of a pound of lean ham. One shallot One clove of garlic. Six mushrooms. One carrot. Half a head of celery. One leek. One onion. Half a turnip. Bouquet garni (sprig of thyme, marjoram, parsley, and a bay-leaf). One blade of mace. Six cloves. Three ounces of flour. Two wineglasses of sherry. The juice of half a lemon. One dozen force-meat balls.

Time required^ about six hours.

N. B. — If the soup is required to be made in one day, the stock should be made early in the morning, so as to give it time to get cold, that the fat may be removed.

To make MocJc-Turtle Soup :

1. Take half a calfs head and wash it well in water, to remove all blood and impurities.

2. Cut all the flesh from the hones^ and tie it up in a very clean cloth or napkin.

3. Put it in a large stewpan, with the hones^ and fowr qua/rts of cold water and half a tablespoonful of salt.

4. Put the stewpan on the fire and let it come to the boil.

6. As soon as it boils, skim it well with a spoon, and move the stewpan to the side of the fire, to stew gently for three hours,

N. B. — Watch it, and ekhn it occasionally.

6. After that time, take out the calf^s head, and pour the stocTc through a strainer into a basin.

120 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. Set it aside to get cold ; then remove every particle of fat from the top of the stock.

8. ]^ow make some force-meat (see "Beef Olives," " Entrees," Lesson Eighth, from Note 4 to l!^ote 12), and make it up into little balls — about one dozen,

9. Take six mushrooms (cut off the ends of the stalks), one onion, and half a turnip, wash, peel, and cut them up in slices.

10. Take one carrot, wash, scrape clean, and cut in slices.

11. Take half a head of celery and one leek, wash them, and cut them up in slices. (Throw away the long green leaves.)

12. Put a quarter of a pound of lean ham on a board and cut it up in slices.

13. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan, and put it on the fire to melt.

14. Add the ham and all the sliced mgetdbles to the "butter in the stewpan.

15. Also add one shallot (peeled), one clove of garlic, one blade of mace, six cloves, and a bouquet garni (a sjprig of thyme, marjoram, pa/rsley, and a bay-leaf tied tightly together).

16. Let all these vegetables, herbs, etc., fry in the butter for ten minutes. Stir them occasionally.

17. Then add three ounces of flour, and stir well.

18. l!^ow add the stocJc, and stir it till it boils ; then move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer about ten minutes.

19. Take a spoon and remove every particle of scum.

20. Now strain the soup into another stewpan.

21. Take the calf^s head out of the cloth and cut it up in small, neat pieces.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 121

22. Add the pieces of calf^s head to the souj^^ also two wineglasses of sherry^ the dozen force-meat halls, and squeeze in, through a strainer, ih^ juice of half a lemon.

23. Let the soup just come to the boil, and then pour it in a hot soup-tureen for serving.

LESSON TENTH.

POT-AU-FEU, OR SOUP.

Ingredients. — ^Four pounds of beef, or four pounds of the meat of the ox- cheek. Sago or tapioca for soup. Half an ounce of salt. Two turnips. Two carrots. Two leeks. One parsnip. One small head of celery. Two or three sprigs of parsley. One cabbage. One bay -leaf, thyme, and mar- joram, and one onion stuck with three cloves.

Time required^ about four hours.

To make Pot-a/ufeu :

1. Put six quarts of water in a large pot.

2. Take four pounds of the sticking piece of heef or four pounds of the meat off the ox-cheek, without any bone, tie it up firmly into a shape with a piece of string, and put it into the pot.

3. Put the pot on the fire to boil.

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in half an ounce of salt, and then move the pot to the side of the fire to simmer.

6. Take two carrots, two leeks, two turnips, one par- snip, one small head of celery, and wash them well in cold water.

6. Scrape the carrots and the pa/rsnip, and cut them in quarters with a knife.

7. Take the leeks and cut off the long green leaves^ as only the white part is required.

122 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

8. Take tlie head of celery and cut off tlie green tops of the leaves.

9. Tie the leeJcs, the celery^ and the parsnip and ca/r- rot together with a piece of string.

10. Take a cabbage^ cut it in two, and wash it thor- oughly in cold water, and tie it firmly together with a piece of string.

11. Skim \hQ pot-au-feu occasionally with a spoon.

12. When it has boiled very gently for one hour, add to it all the vegetables except the cdbhage.

13. Take one bay-leaf a sprig of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a sprig of marjoram, and tie them together with a piece of string.

14. Put these herbs into the pot.

15. Take one onion, peel it, and stick th^ee cloves in it.

16. Put the onio7i into the pot.

17. When the vegetables have been two hours in the pot, put in the cabbage.

18. When the contents of the pot have simmered gently iorfour hours, take out the meat and put it on a hot dish.

19. Garnish the meat with the carrots, turnips, and parsnips, and pour over it about half a pint of the liquor for gravy.

20. Take out the cabbage and serve it in a hot vegeta- ble-dish.

21. Strain the liquor through a colander, or cloth, into a basin, and put it by to cool.

22. Do not remove the fat until the liquor is required for use ; it keeps the air from it.

To make a Soup of the liquor :

23. Put two quarts of the liquor in a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 123

24. Take two ounces of crushed tapioca, or small sago ; and when the liquor boils, sprinkle in the tapioca or sago, and let it boil for fifteen minutes, stirring occasionally.

25. Then pour it into the soup-tureen, and it is ready for use.

N. B. — If liked, Beef ^-la-mode, or rissoles {see " Cooked Meat," Lesson Sixth), can be made from the meat of the Pot-au-feu.

For £eef d-la-mode :

1. Put two ounces of drippiug into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to melt.

2. Stir in one tablespoonf ul of flour.

3. Take one pound and a half of the meat and cut it in neat pieces.

4. Put these pieces of meat into the saucepan.

6. "When it comes to the boil, turn over the slices of meat and pour in half a pint of cold water.

6. Wash and scrape clean one carrot, and cut it in slices.

7. Put the carrot into the saucepan ; add a bunch of herbs (namely, a sprig of marjoram and thyme and a bay- leaf), tied tightly together.

8. Let it just come to a boil, and then move the sauce- pan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for three hours.

9. "Watch it, and stir it occasionally.

10. For serving, turn the meat on to a hot dish, and place the carrot on the top of the meat.

124" LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON ELEVENTH.

Ingredients. — ^Four ounces of Scotch barley. Four ounces of sliced onion. Four ounces of dripping. Three ounces of bacon. Four ounces of oat- meal. Pepper and salt. Five quarts of liquor.

m,me required, about two Iwurs.

To make ^'Dr, Kitchener's Broth " ;

1. Take four ounces of Scotch harley, wash it well, and let it soak in a basin of cold water for two hov/rs.

2. Put five quarts of liquor into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

3. Take two or three onions, peel them, and cut them in slices. (There should be sibont four ounces.)

4. Drain off the harley and put it and the onions into the liquor, and let it boil gently for one hour,

5. Put three ounces of hacon into another saucepan, with two ounces of clarified drijyping.

6. Put the saucepan on the fire to fry the hacon brown.

7. Then add, by degrees, four ounces of oatmeal, stir- ring it well until it is a paste.

8. Now stir in, by degrees, the hroth, and season it with jpepper and salt according to taste.

9. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for at least half an hour.

10. For serving, pour the hroth into a hot soup-tureen or basin.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 125

LESSON TWELFTH.

CKOWDIE.

Ingredients. — Two gallons of liquor from meat. Half a pint of oatmeal. Two onions. Salt and pepper.

!nme required^ half an hour.

To make " Crowdie,^^ or Scotch Broth :

1. Take two gallons of any meat-liquor, either salt or fresh, remove all the fat from it, and put it into a sauce- pan.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

3. Take half a pint of oatmeal, put it into a basin, and mix it into a smooth paste with about a gill of the liquor.

N. B. — Half a pint of oatmeal is enough to thicken two gallons of liquor.

4. Peel two onions, put them on a board, and chop them up as fine as possible.

6. Stir the chopped onions into the paste, and add salt and pepper to taste.

N. B. — If salt liquor is used, salt should not be added.

6. When the liquor in the saucepan is quite boiling, stir in the paste smoothly.

7. Let it boil for twenty minutes, stirring it occasion- ally ; it must not get lumpy.

8. For serving, pour it into the soup-tureen or basin.

.126 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIETEENTH.

MILK SOUP.

Ingredients. — Four potatoes. Two leeks or onions. Two ounces of but- ter. One-quarter of an ounce of salt. Pepper. One pint of milk. Three tablespoonfuls of tapioca.

Time required, about two hours and a half.

To make Milk Soup :

1. Put two qua/rts of water into a large saucepan, and put it on the jBre to boil.

2. Take four large potatoes, wash and scrub them clean in cold water, peel them, and cut them in quarters.

3. Take two leeks, cut off the green tops of the leaves, wash them well in cold water, and cut them up.

N. B. — Onions can be used instead of leeTcs, only they would give a stronger flavor.

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in \hQ potatoes and leeks.

6. Put in two ounces of hutter, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and pepper to taste.

6. Let it boil till done to a mash.

7. Then strain off the soup through the colander.

8. Pub the vegetables through the colander with a wooden spoon.

9. Peturn the pulp and the soup to the saucepan, add one pint of milk to it, and put it on the fire to boil.

10. When it boils, sprinkle in, by degrees, three table- spoonfuls of crushed tapioca, stirring it well the whole time.

11. Let it boil ^<sn^^ fifteen minutes.

12. For serving, pour the soup in a hot tureen.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 127

LESSON FOURTEENTH. CABBAGE SOUP.

Ingredients. — One cabbage. Two ounces of butter. Three-quarters of a pint of milk. Pepper and salt. A slice of bread.

Time required, ahcyid one hour and a quarter.

To make Cabbage Soujp :

1. Put three pints of water into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil,

2. Take a good-sized cabbage, wash it well in cold water, and trim off the outside dead leaves.

3. Cut the cabbage up as you would cut a lettuce up for a salad, but not into small pieces.

4. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the cabbage.

5. Add two ounces of butter, and pepper and salt for seasoning, and let it boil one hour.

6. Then pour in three-quarters of a pint of milk, and let it boil up.

7. Stick a slice of bread on a toasting-fork, and toast it slightly on both sides in front of the fire.

8. Cut the toasted bread in pieces the size of dice, and put them into a hot soup-tureen or basin.

9. Pour the cabbage soup on to the bread in the soup- tureen, and it is ready for serving.

12^ LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON FIFTEENTH.

PEA SOUP.

Ingredients. — One quart of split peas. Two onions. One turnip. One carrot. One head of celery. Teaspoonful of salt. Half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cooked or uncooked bones.

Time required {after the peas have been soaked all night), about two hours and a half.

To make JPea Soup :

1. Put a quart of sjplit peas into a basin, with cold water to cover them, and let them soak for twelve hours.

N. B. — ^This should be done over night.

2. Put two quarts of cold water and the split peas into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

N. B. — If there is any liquor from boiled meat, it would of course be better than water for the soup.

3. Take two onions and one turnip, wash them in cold water, peel them, and cut them in halves.

4. Take one carrot , wash it, and scrape it clean with a knife.

5. Take one head of celery, cut off the ends of the root, and wash it well in cold water.

6. When the water in the saucepan is boiling, put in all the vegetables.

7. Add any coohed or uncoohed hones that are at hand, and season it with one teaspoonful of salt and half a tea- spoonful of grovm^d pepper.

N. B. — If some liquor (in which meat or pork has been boiled) is used, the addition of bones will not then be necessary.

8. Let it all boil slowly for two hours, and you must watch it, and skim it occasionally.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 129

9. After that time, take the hones out of the saucepan.

10. Place a colander or wire sieve over a basin.

11. Pour the contents of the saucepan into the colan- der, and rub them through into the basin with a wooden spoon.

12. The pea soup is then ready for serving.

13. Powdered (dried) mint and tomted Iread, cut to the shape of dice, should be handed with the soup^ either put in, or served separately on plates.

LESSON SIXTEENTH.

GERMAN PEA SOUP.

Ingredients. — Quarter of a stick of German pea-soup sausage. Three pints of water.

Time required^ about a quarter of an Tmur.

To make Pea Soup from the Germaji pea-soup sausage :

1. Put three pints of warm water into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

2. Take a quarter of a stick of German pea-soup satc- sage and scrape it into a basin.

3. Add to it a very little warm water, let it soak, and then mix it into a smooth paste.

N. B, — Be very careful that there are no lumps in the paste.

4. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, stir the paste in smoothly.

5. It is now ready for use, and should be poured into a hot soup-tureen.

N. B. — If the soup is preferred thinner, more water might be added. N. B. — A dessertspoonful of chopped mint might be added to the soup^ if the flavor is liked.

130 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SEVENTEENTH.

MACAKONI SOUP.

Ingredients. — Bones. One tablespoonful of salt and pepper-coms. One good-sized turnip and four leeks. Two carrots. Four onions. Two cloves, and a blade of mace. A bunch of herbs (marjoram, thyme, lemon-thyme, and parsley). One-quarter of a pound of macaroni.

Time required, about tioo hours and a half.

To make Soup from Bones :

1. Cut off from the bones all tlie meat that can be used.

N. B. — Cooked or uncooked bones can be used.

2. Break up the hones in pieces and put them into a saucepan, with cold water enough to cover them, and one quart more.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

4. When it just boils, put in a tablespoonful of salt, to help the scum rise.

5. Peel one good-sized turnip and cut it in quarters.

N. B. — ^When turnips are used only for flavoring, they can be peeled thinner than if for eating.

6. Take two carrots, wash them, scrape them, and cut them in quarters ; take four leehs, wash them, and shred them up finely.

N.B.— As soon as these vegetables are prepared, they should be thrown into cold water, to keep them fresh.

7. Take four onions, peel them, and stick two cloves into them.

N. B. — The outer skins of the onions can be put into a saucepan by the side of the fire, to brown ; when browned, they are used for coloring gravies or soups.

8. Skim the soup well, and then put in the vegetables ; also add a blade of mace and a teaspoonful of pepper-corns.

STOCK AND SOUPS. 131

9. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for two hours and a half.

10. Kaise the lid slightly to let out the steam.

N. B. — The soup can be thickened with macaroni, vermicelli, barley, or rice.

11. If the 80wp is thickened with maca/roni^ take a quarter of ajpound of macaroni and wash it well in two or three waters.

12. Put the macaroni into a saucepan with plenty, of cold water, and sprinkle a little salt over it.

13. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil until the macaroni is quite tender ; it will ta^e about half an hour.

14. Try the macaroni with your fingers, to see that it is quite soft and tender.

15. When it is sufficiently boiled, strain the water off and pour some cold water on it, and wash the macaroni again.

16. Put it on a board and cut it into small pieces, about a quarter of a/n inch in length ; it is then ready to be put into the soup.

N.B. — If barley is used instead of macaroni, it will take a much longer time to boil ; but if vermicelli is used, it takes a very short time to boil.

17. "When the soup is ready for use, put the maca/roni into a soup-tureen, and strain the hot soup over it.

N. B. — It is better to boil macaroni separately, as the first water is not clean.

CHAPTER X. FISH,

LESSON PIRST.

BOILED TURBOT AND LOBSTEB-SAUCE.

Ingredients. — Lobster. Two ounces of butter. One tablespoonful of cream. Half an ounce of flour.

Time required^ about half an hour.

To Boil Turhot and make Lobster-Sauce :

1. Put tlie turbot in a basin of cold water and wash it well.

2. Get a fish-kettle and fill it with cold water ; add to it as much salt as will make the water taste salt, and put it on the fire to boil.

3. Take the turbot out of the basin.

4. Put it on the drainer of the fish-kettle, and put it in the kettle of boiling water, so that it will be covered with water.

6. Let it boil for twenty or thirty minutes,

6. Watch it, and skim the water if necessary.

N. B. — While the turbot is boiling, make the lobster-sauce {see below).

7. When the fish is sufl&ciently boiled, the flesh will divide from the bones.

FISH. 133

8. !N'ow take the drainer out of the fish-kettle, stand it across the kettle a minute to drain, and slip the fish care- fully on to a hot dish for serving.

While the turbot is boiling, make the Lobster-Sauce:

1. Take a small lobster — it should be a hen-lobster, if possible.

2. Put the lobster on a board.

3. Take a chopper and break the shell of the lobster, by hitting it with the blade of the chopper, not with the edge ; first, because it would cut the lobster in pieces, and second, because it would spoil the edge of the chopper.

4. Break all the shell off the claws and back with your fingers, and take out all the flesh.

6. Cut this flesh up with a sharp knife to the size of small dice.

6. If the lobster is a hen-lobster, you will find a bit of coral in the neck, and a strip of it down the back.

7. Take all this coral out of the lobster and wash it carefully in cold water in a small basin.

8. Take the coral out of the basin and put it in a mortar, with one ounce of butter.

9. Pound the coral and the butter well with the pestle.

10. Take it out of the mortar, and scrape the mortar out quite clean with a palette-knife, for none must be lost.

11. If you have not a palette-knife, you can manage as well with a piece of uncooked potato cut into the shape of a knife-blade with a thick back ; with this you can scrape all out of the mortar.

12. Take a hair-sieve and put it over a plate.

13. Rub the pounded mixture through the sieve with the back of a wooden spoon.

14. Turn up the sieve when all the mixture has passed

134 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

through, and you will find some sticking on the under part.

15. Scrape all this carefully off with the spoon.

16. Make it all into a little pat.

17. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour.

18. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon.

19. Add one gill and a half of cold water.

20. Put the stewpan on the fire.

21. Stir the mixture smooth with a wooden spoon until it boils and thickens. Add a large tablespoonful of cream, and stir well till it boils again.

22. Then take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

23. Add to the mixture in the stewpan the pat of coral butter, by degrees, to color it.

N. B. — If there is no coral, the sauce might be colored with half a teaspoonf ul of essence of anchovy.

24. Stir it quite smoothly with a wooden spoon ; it must not be lumpy.

25. ISTow add pepper and salt, and a few grains of Cay- enne pepper, according to taste.

26. Take the chopped lobster and mix it into the sauce, and add a little lemon-juice.

27. Pour the sauce into a sauce-boat, and serve it with the turbot.

FISH. 135

LESSmi^ECOND.

Ingredients.— Haddock. Two poun^ei potatoes. . Three dimfeslaf'^:^^^]^ I CS One egg. '''^^"^^ii SCIiiNCif

For Sauce.

Ingredients. — Two ounces of butter. Half an ounce of flour. Half a gill of cream. Two eggs, and salt.

Time required, about one hour and a half.

To make a Fish Pudding of a Haddock :

1. Take a fish-kettle of warm water and put in it a lit- tle salt, and put it on the fire to boil.

2. Take a haddock and put it into a basin of cold water, and wash it well.

3. Take the haddock out of the basin and put it into the fish-kettle of boiling water, laying it carefully on the drainer, so that it will be covered with water.

4. Let it simmer ior fifteen minutes.

6. Take six potatoes, put them into a basin of cold water, and scrub them well with a scrubbing-brush.

N. B. — Any cold potatoes can, of course, be used, instead of boiling fresh ones.

6. Take the potatoes out of the basin and dry them with a cloth.

7. Take a sharp knife and peel the potatoes.

8. Take a saucepan of cold ^ water and lay the potatoes in it.

9. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil. It must not boil less than twenty minutes, or more than forty five, according to the size of the potatoes.

10. When you think the potatoes are sufficiently done,

' See Lessons First, Second, Third, and Fourth, on the cooking of pota- toes, in the chapter on " Vegetables."

136 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

take a steel fork and try them, to see if they are tender all through.

11. When they are quite boiled, drain off all the water from the saucepan, and sprinkle the potatoes with a little salt.

12. Put the lid of the saucepan on, and stand the sauce- pan by the side of the fire, to steam the potatoes until they have become quite mealy and dry.

13. Shake the saucepan every now and then, to prevent the potatoes from sticking to the bottom.

14. "When the haddock is sufficiently boiled, take it carefully out of the fish-kettle.

15. Take a sharp knife and cut off the head and tail of the fish.

16. Skin the fish from the head to the tail.

17. Cut up the fish, and take out all the bones.

18. Cut the fish up into small pieces the size of dice, and put them in a large basin.

19. When the potatoes are steamed, take them out of the saucepan with a spoon.

20. Have a wire sieve ready standing over a large plate.

21. Eub the potatoes quickly through the sieve with a wooden spoon.

22. Add the sifted potatoes to the haddock, and mix them well together with a wooden spoon.

23. Add salt and pepper, and a few grains of Cayenne pepper, to taste.

24. Put in two ounces of butter.

25. Take one egg and beat it slightly in a basin.

26. Pour the egg into the above mixture, and mix all together to a thick paste.

27. Take a large-sized flat tin and butter it well with your fingers.

FISH. 137

28. Put the mixture on to this tin, and shape it as well as you can like a haddock.

N. B. — If preferred, the mixture can be formed into cutlets, or cro- quette shapes, or as fish-cakes, and egged and bread-crumbed and fried in dripping, as for lohstet' cutlets {see " Fish," Lesson Seventh, Note 34 to Note 40).

29. Put some little bits of butter all about on the shape.

30. Put the tin into a quick oven for a qybo/rter of an hour. It should become a pale-brown color.

Now make the Sauce :

1. Take a stewpan and put in it two ounces of butter and one ounce and a half of flour.

2. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon.

3. Add half a teaspoonful of salt.

4. Pour in half a pint of cold water.

6. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir all smooth with a wooden spoon until it boils.

6. E^ow add t/wo tdblesjpoonfuls of cream, and let it boil, stirring all the time.

7. Stand the stewpan by the side of the fire. The mixture must not boil again, but only keep warm.

8. Take a saucepan of warm water and put it on the fire to boil.

9. When the water boils, put in two eggs, to boil for ten minutes.

10. Put the eggs into cold water for a minute, and then shell them.

11. Cut the eggs with a sharp knife into little square pieces.

12. Take the stewpan of sauce off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

13. Add the cut-up eggs to the sauce, and stir them lightly in, not to break the pieces of Q^g.

14. For serving, move the fish pudding carefully on to a hot dish, and pour the egg-sauce round.

138 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIRD. WH ITEB AIT.'

To Fry Whitebait:

1. Wash the whitebait in iced water, pick them over carefully, and dry them well in a cloth.

2. Take a sheet of paper and put on it a good teacup- ful of flour.

3. Take the whitebait and sprinkle them in the flour. They must not touch each other, and you must finger them as little as possible.

4. Take up the paper and shake the whitebait in the flour, so that they will be well covered with it.

5. Turn the whitebait from the paper of flour into a frying-basket, and sift all the loose flour back on to the paper.

6. Take a saucepan and put in it onejpound amd a half of lard or clarified dripping.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, to heat the fat. When the fat smokes, it will then be hot enough.

N. B. — The fat requires to be much hotter for frying whitebait thaii • for anything else.

N. B. — If possible, the fat should be tested by a frimometer, and the heat should rise to 400° Fahr.

8. Then turn the whitebait, a few at a time, into the frying-basket, and put it into the fat for one minute. The whitebait should be quite crisp.

9. Put a piece of whity-brown paper on a plate, stand the plate near the fire, and turn the fried whitebait on to

^ We have no whitebait^ but this lesscm applies to smelts equailly well.

FISH. 139

the paper, to drain off the grease. Serve them on a nap- kin on a hot dish. Lemon cut, and thin slices of hrown bread and hutter^ should be served with them.

LESSON POUfiTH.

Ingredients. — One sole. Parsley, and a quarter of a shallot. Four mush- rooms. A teaspoonful of lemon- juice. Salt and pepper. Two table- spoonfuls of glaze. Half an ounce of butter. Crumbs.

Time required^ about one hour.

To Cook Sole au Gratin :

1. Take a small sole and cut off, with a sharp knife, the outside fins.

2. Cut through the skin only, across the head and the tail, on both sides of the fish.

3. Take the skin off from the tail to the head.

4. "Wash the sole in cold water and dry it with a cloth, and nick it with a knife on both sides.

5. You can cook the sole in fillets if required, or whole. (K. B. — If in fillets, then fillet the sole the same as for the fried fillets in Lesson Sixth.) You are now going to cook the sole whole.

6. Take a small bunch of parsley and dry it well in a cloth.

7. Chop the parsley up fine on a board.

8. Chop a qua/rter of a shallot up fine, and mix it with the parsley.

9. The chopped parsley and shallot should fill a table- spoon.

^ All the directions here given for cooking sole, apply perfectly to the dressing and cooking of the American flounder.

14:0 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

10. Take four small mushrooms, cat off the roots, and then wash the mushrooms well in a basin of cold water.

11. Take them out of the water, dry them in a cloth, and peel them. •

12. Chop them up fine.

13. Take a dish and spread a little butter on it with your fingers.

14. Sprinkle Tialf the chopped parsley, shallot, and mushroom over the bottom of the buttered dish.

15. Pour half a teasjpoonful of lemon-juice over the chopped parsley, shallot, and mushroom in the dish ; also sprinkle half a salt-sjpoonful of salt and a quarter of a salt-spoonful of pepper.

16. Lay the sole carefully in the dish, and sprinkle over it the remainder of the chopped parsley, shallot, and mushroom.

17. Sprinkle over the sole a little pepper and salt, and squeeze over it half a teasjpoonful of lemon-juice.

18. Take half an ounce of butter and cut it in small pieces, and put them over the sole.

19. Pour over it two tdblesjpoonfuls of half glaze.

N.B. — Glaze can be bought, or it can be made by reducing some strong stock over the fire.

20. Take a wire sieve and put it over a piece of paper.

21. Take some crumb of hread and rub it through the sieve.

22. Take these bread-crumbs and put them on a flat tin. Put this tin into the oven, to dry and slightly brown the bread-crumbs.

23. When the crumbs are done, sift them over the sole.

24. Now put the dish into a brisk oven for ten minutes.

PISH. 141

Take a fork and prick in the thick part of the sole, to see if the fish is tender.

25. Carefully move the sole with a slice on to a clean dish, and pour the sauce round.

LESSON FIFTH.

Ingredients. — Sole. Lemon-juice. Half an ounce of butter. Three-quar- ters of an ounce of flour. Half a gill of cream.

2^me required, about half an hour.

To Cook Fillets of Soles a la Maitre d'Hdtel:

1. Take one sole and fillet it the same way as the fried fillets in Lesson Sixth.

2. Take the hones and fins of the sole and put them into a stewpan, with half a jpint of water, and put it on the fire to boil.

3. Take a flat tin pan and butter it with your fingers.

4. Fold the fillets loosely over and lay them in the buttered tin.

6. Sprinkle a little salt and squeeze a little lemon- juice over^them, and cover them with a piece of buttered paper.

6. Put the tin with the fillets into a sharp oven for six minutes,

Now make the Sauce :

1. Take a small bunch of parsley, wash it, dry it, and chop it fine with a knife on a board.

2. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter and three-quarters of an ounce of flour.

3. Mix them smoothly together with a wooden spoon.

142 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Take the saucepan of fish-stock and pour it by de- grees through a strainer into the stewpan of butter and flour, stirring well.

5. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture smooth with a wooden spoon. E^ow add two tdblesjpoon- fuls of cream, and stir it well until it boils.

6. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

7. Add the chopped parsley to the mixture.

8. Add half a teasjpoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pep- per to taste, and stir the sauce well.

9. Now take the fillets out of the oven and arrange them on a hot dish for serving ; add the liquor from the fillets of soles, out of the tin, to the sauce.

10. Pour the sauce over ^q fillets of soles.

N. B. — If there is no cream, the sauce can be made with milk ; the bones of the fish should therefore be boiled in half a pint of milk, instead of water.

LESSON SIXTH. FRIEDSOLEB. Ingredients.— Sole. One egg. Crumbs. Time required, ahovi half an hxmr.

To Fry Filleted Soles : '

1. Take one sole, wash it well, and lay it on a board.

2. Take a sharp knife and cut off all the outside fins, the head, and the tail.

3. Take the sMn off the sole, from the tail to the head.

4. Cut down the centre of the fish.

5. Slide the knife along carefully between the flesh and the bones, holding the flesh in one hand and drawing it gently away as the knife cuts it away from the bone.

FISH. 143

6. Do both sides of the fish alike, and it will make fov/r fillets.

7. Put each fillet separately on a plate, and rub it over with flour.

8. Take a wire sieve and stand it over a piece of paper.

9. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the sieve.

10. Take one Qgg and beat it on a plate with a knife.

11. Lay the fillets in the eg^y and e^g them well all over with a brush.

12. Then put them in the bread-crumbs and cover them well. Be careful to finger them as little as possible.

13. Take a saucepan and put in it one pound and a half of lard or clarified dripping.

Now make the Butter-Sauce with Anchovy {see next page).

14. Put the saucepan on the fire, to heat the fat. Test the heat of it by throwing in a piece of Iread, and if it makes a fizzing noise, it is ready.

N. B. — The heat is tested best by a f rimometer ; it should rise to 345°.

15. Take a frying-basket and place in it the fillets.

16. They should be slightly bent, or folded over, to prevent their being flat when fried.

17. When the fat is quite hot, put in the frying-basket with the fillets for three mimites.

18. Put a piece of whity-brown paper on a plate.

19. When the fillets are done, they should be a pale brown. Turn them out on to the paper on the plate, to drain ofi the grease.

20. Serve them in a hot dish on a napkin, garnished with a little iviQ^pa/rsley. (Eefer to " Fish," Lesson Sev- enth, Note 41.)

144 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

ANCHOVY-SATJCE.

Ingredients. — One ounce of butter. Half an ounce of flour. Anchovy- sauce.

1. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour.

2. Mix them well with a wooden spoon.

3. Add one gill and a half of cold water.

4. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir well with a wooden spoon until the mixture is quite smooth and boils.

5. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

6. Now add one tablesjpoonful of anchovy-sauce, and stir it well into the butter-sauce.

7. For serving, pour it into a sauce-boat.

LESSON SEVENTH.

LOBSTER CTJTLETS.

Ingredients. — One lobster. One and one-half ounce of butter. Half a gill of cream. Seasoning and flavoring. One ounce of flour. One egg. Bread. Parsley.

Time required, about three hours.

To make Lobster Cutlets :

1. Take a small lobster — it should be a hen-lobster, if possible.

2. Put the lobster on a board.

3. Take a chopper and break the shell of the lobster, by hitting it with the blade of the chopper, not with the edge; first, because it would cut the lobster in pieces, and second, because it would spoil the edge of the chopper.

4. Break all the shell off the claws and back with your fingers, and take out all the flesh.

FISH. 145

6. Cut this flesh up in pieces with a sharp knife, to the size of small dice.

6. If the lobster is a hen-lobster, you will find a bit of coral in the neck, and a strip of it down the back.

7. Take all this coral out of the lobster, and wash it carefully in cold water in a small basin.

8. Take the coral out of the basin and put it in a mor- tar, with one ounce of butter.

9. Pound the coral and the butter well with the pestle.

10. Take it out of the mortar, and scrape it out quite clean with a palette-knife or slice of raw potato, for none must be lost.

11. Take a hair-sieve and put it over a plate.

12. Pass the pounded mixture through the sieve with a wooden spoon.

13. Turn up the sieve when all the mixture has passed through, and you will find some sticking inside.

14. Scrape all this carefully off with the spoon.

15. Make it all into a little ^«^.

16. Take a stewpan and put in it one ovMce of flour and half cm ounce of butter. Mix them well together with a wooden spoon.

17. Add one gill of cold water. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture with a wooden spoon till it boils and thickens.

18. Add one tahlesjpoonful of cream, and stir smooth until it boils.

19. Take the stewpan off" the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

20. E'ow stir in, by degrees, the pat of coral-butter. Be sure the sauce is quite smooth, and not lumpy.

21. Add salt and pepper, and a few grains of Cayenne

146 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

pepper, according to taste, and about six drops of lemon- juice, and mix well.

22. Add the chopped lobster, and stir lightly — not to break up the lobster, but only to mix it with the sauce.

23. Take a clean plate and pour the mixture from the stewpan on to it, smoothing it with a knife.

24. Take a piece of paper and cut it round to the size of the plate. Butter it with a knife.

26. Put the buttered paper over the mixture which is in the plate, to prevent the dust from getting in.

26. Take the plate and stand it on ice (if possible), or put it in a cold place to cool.

27. Take a wire sieve and put it over a piece of paper.

28. Take a piece of the crumb of bread and rub it through the wire sieve.

29. Take one Qgg and beat it slightly with a knife on a plate.

30. Take a saucepan and put in it one jpound cmd a half of lard or clarified dripping.

31. Put the saucepan on the fire, to heat the fat. It must not burn.

32. Take the plate of lobster mixture, which should by this time be cold and rather stiff.

33. Shape the mixture into cutlets. This quantity will make seven.

34. Dip the cutlets into the egg, and egg them well all over with a brush.

35. Take them carefully out of the egg, and cover them well with the bread-crumbs.

N. B. — If the cutlets are not well covered with egg and bread-crumbs, they will burst in the frying.

36. Take a frying-basket and lay in it the lobster cut- lets, a few at a time, so as not to touch each other.

FISH. 147

37. When tlie fat is quite hot, test it by throwing into it a piece of bread. If it makes a sharp, fizzing noise, it is ready.

38. Put the frying-basket into the fat for three minutes^ or perhaps less. The cutlets should become a pale brown.

39. Get a plate, with a piece of whity - brown paper on it, ready to receive the cutlets when they come out of the boiling fat. This is to strain all the grease from them.

40. Take the small claws of the lobster and stick them into the end of each cutlet, to represent the bone.

41. Take a few sprigs of parsley and put them into the frying-basket.

42. Just toss the basket with the parsley into the boil- ing fat for a second. .

43. Arrange the cutlets on a napkin on a hot dish, and garnish them with the fried parsley.

LESSON EIGHTH.

BOILED CODFISH AND OYSTEE-SAUOE.

Ingredients* — One dozen oysters. Half an ounce of butter. One-quarter of an ounce of flour. One tablespoonful of cream. Lemon-juice and Cayenne pepper.

Time required^ ahovi twenty mimUes.

To Cook Codfish and make Oyster-Sauce :

1. Take a slice of cod weighing one pound.

2. Put it in a basin of cold water and wash it well.

3. Take a small fish-kettle of boiling water and add to it as much salt as will make the water taste salt.

4. Put the fish-kettle on the fire.

5. Take the cod out of the basin and place it on the drainer in the fish-kettle, and let it boil ior fifteen minutes,

N. B. — It must not boil fast.

148 LESSONS m COOKERY.

6. When the slice of cod is suflSciently cooked, the flesh will leave the bones.

N. B. — The bone is usually left in, or the fish would break to pieces.

7. Serve the slice of cod on a folded napkin on a hot dish, with oyster-sauce.

FOR OYSTER-SAUCE.

1. Take one dozen oysters and the liquor that is with them, and put them into a small saucepan.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire and bring them to the boil ; this is to blanch the ovsters.

3. Take the saucepan off the fire as soon as it boils.

4. Take a basin and pour int;o it the oyster-liquor through a strainer.

5. Take the oysters out of the saucepan and lay them on a plate.

6. Take off the beards and all the hard parts of the oysters, leaving only the soft part.

7. Take a stewpan and put in half an ounce of butter and a quarter of an ounce of flour.

8. Mix the flour and the butter well together with a wooden spoon.

9. E^ow add to the contents of the stewpan the oyster- liquor which is in the basin.

10. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture well with a wooden spoon until it boils and thickens.

11. ISTow add one tablespoonful of cream, and stir again until it boils.

12. Take the stewpan off the fire' and stand it on a piece of paper on the'table.

13. Add six drops of lemon-juice and a few grains of Cayenne pepper, according to taste.

FISH. 149

14. Take the trimmed oysters and cut them into small pieces.

16. Add the pieces of oyster to the mixture in the stew- pan, and mix all together with a wooden spoon.

LESSON NINTH. BROILED SALMON AND TARTAKE-SAUCE.

Ingredients. — Two eggs. Salt and pepper. A tablespoonful of French vinegar. Parsley. Gherkins or capers. One gill of oil.

Time required, about Jif teen minutes.

To Cook Salmon :

1. Take a thick slice of salmon weighing one jpoutid,

2. Cut it into two thin slices, as it will cook better than in a thick piece.

3. Put the salmon in a basin of cold water and wash it well.

. 4. Take it out of the basin and dry it well with a cloth.

5. Take a plate and pour on it about a gill of salad-oil.

6. Dip the slices of salmon into the oil on both sides ; the oil will prevent the fish from drying while cooking.

7. Season the slices on both sides with pepper and salt.

8. Take a gridiron and heat it on both sides by the fire ; this is to prevent the fish sticking.

9. When the gridiron is hot, place on the slices of sal- mon, and let them grill for a quarter of an hour.

10. Turn the gridiron occasionally, so as to cook the fish on both sides, which should become of a pale-brown color.

11. When the fish is quite done, remove the bone in the centre of each slice. Serve the salmon on a napkin on a hot dish.

150 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

FOR TAETAKE-SAUCE.

1. Take two eggs, and put the yolks into one basin, and the whites (which will not be wanted) into another basin.

2. Take a wooden spoon and just stir the yolks enough to break them.

3. Add to them a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt- spoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of French vinegar.

4. Take a bottle of salad-oil, and, putting your thumb half over the top, pour in, drop by drop, the oil, stirring well with a whisk the whole time ; a gill of oil will be sufficient.

5. If the sauce is not sharp enough to taste, add a little more vinegar, stirring it in smooth.

6. Now stir in a teaspoonful of ready-made mustard, or tarragon- vinegar if it is liked.

7. Take a small bunch of parsley and put it in a small saucepan of boiling water, with a little salt and soda, for two or three seconds.

N. B. — Soda is to keep the parsley green.

N. B. — This is called " blanching " or " parboiling " parsley.

8. Take the parsley out and dry it thoroughly by squeezing it in a cloth. Put it on a board and chop it up fine. There should be a teaspoonful.

9. Take a few gherkins or capers and chop them up fine on a board. There should be enough to fill a table- spoon.

10. Take these chopped gherkins or capers, and the chopped parsley, and put them all into the sauce, and mix them in with a spoon.

11. Serve the sauce in a sauce-tureen.

FISH. 151

LESSON TENTH. BAKED MACKEREL OB HEEEING.

Ingredients. — Two mackerel or herrings. One dessertspoonful of chopped herbs and onions. One dessertspoonful of chopped parsley. One des- sertspoonful of bread-crumbs. Pepper and salt. Two ounces of dripping.

!nme required^ about fortt/ minutes.

To Bake MacJcerel or Herrings with herhs and hread- crumhs :

1. Wash the mackerel or herrings in cold water, dry them in a cloth, and put them upon a board.

2. Take a sharp knife, cut off the heads of the fish, carefully split open each fish, and take out the hackrbone,

3. Lay one fish open flat on a tin {shin downward),

4. Take a sjyrig of parsley^ wash it in water, and dry it in a cloth.

5. Put the parsley on a board, take away the stalks^ and chop it up as fine as possible. There should be about a dessertspoonful.

6. Take half an onion, peel it, put it on a board with a sprig of thyme and marjoram, and chop it up fine. There should be about a dessertspoonful,

7. Take a grater, stand it on a board, and grate a few hvead-CTumhs. There should be about a dessertspoonful.

8. Mix the onions, herbs, and bread-crumbs together.

9. Sprinkle pepper and salt to taste over the fish in the tin.

10. Then sprinkle over the fish the mixture of herhs and hread-crumbs.

11. Take the other fish and lay it over the one in the tin {shin upward).

152 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

12. Put two ounces of clarified drvpping in a saucepan, and put it on the fire to melt.

13. Pour the melted dri'pjping over the fish in the tin.

14. Cover the tin with a dish, and stand it on the hot plate or in the oven, to bake for half an hour,

15. Watch it, and baste it occasionally with the dripping.

16. For serving, turn the fish carefully out of the tin on to a hot dish,

LESSON ELEVENTH. BAKED STUFFED HADDOCK.

Ingredients. — One haddock. Bread-crumbs. One dessertspoonful of chopped parsley. One teaspoonful of chopped herbs. Pepper and salt. Two ounces of suet. One egg. Two ounces of dripping.

Time required^ about three-quarters of an hour.

To Stuff a Haddock and Bake it :

1. Take a haddoch, wash it, clean it carefully in cold water, and dry it in a cloth.

2. Stand a grater on a piece of paper, and grate some hread-crurnhs.

3. Take a sjprig of parsley, wash it in cold water, and dry it in a cloth.

4. Put the jparsUy on a board and chop it up fine. There should be about a dessertspoonful.

5. Take a small sjprig of thyme and marjoram^ remove the stalks, and chop the herbs up fine on a board. There should be about a teaspoonful.

N. B. — The Btalhs will do for flavoring, but they cannot be eaten, as they are bitter.

6. Mix all the herhs together with two tablespoonfuls of the hread-crumhs.

N. B. — The remainder of the bread-crumbs will be required to roll the fish in.

FISH. 153

7. Add pepjper and salt to taste, and mix the stuffing together with two ounces of suet.

8. Stuff the belly of the fish with the stuffing, and sew it up.

9. Break an egg into a plate, and brush the fish over with it ; then roll it in the hread-crunibs, covering it well all over.

10. Grease a dish or tin with a piece of dripping.

11. Lay the fish on the dish or tin, and put it into the oven, to bake for from half to three-quarters of an hour, basting it frequently with dripping.

LESSON TWELFTH.

FISH BAKED IN VINEGAS.

Ingredients. — Six herrings. Thirty pepper-corns. One blade of mace. One shallot. One bay-leaf. One gill of vinegar. Salt.

Time required^ about six hours.

To Bake J^ish (such as herrings or mackerel) in Vm-

1. Wash the fish and clean them thoroughly in cold water.

2. Put the fish on a board and cut them into thick pieces.

3. Lay these pieces close together in a stone jar, with thirty pepper-corns and half a teaspoonful of salt.

4. Add one Made of mace and a hay-leaf.

5. Take one shallot^ peel it, and add it, or part of it (according to taste), to thej^^A.

6. Pour in one gill of mnegar^ and tie a piece of brown paper tightly over the top of the jar with a piece of string.

154 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. Put the jar into a very slow oven, to bake for six hours / or it may stand in a baker's oven all night. N. B. — The Jish is to be eaten cold.

LESSON THIRTEENTH. FRIED PLAICE.

Ingredients. — One plaice. One egg. Bread-crumbs. Dripping for frying.

Time required, about half an hcmr.

To Fry Plaice in Egg and Bread-crumbs, or Batter :

1. Put about half a pound of clarified dripjpmg into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat.

2. Take the jplaice, wash it in cold water, and dry it in a cloth.

3. Put the plaice on a board, and, with a sharp knife, carefully remove the skin from the back side of the fish, and cut off the head and the tail.

4. Hold a grater over a piece of paper, and grate some hread-crurribs.

5. Cut up ih^fish into slices or fillets.

6. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it lightly with a knife.

7. Dip the slices of fish into the egg, and egg them well all over.

8. Then roll them in the hread-crurribs, covering them well.

N. B. — Shake off the loose crumbs.

9. When the dripping is quite hot and smoking, care- fully put in thej^^A, fingering it as little as possible, so as not to take off any of the ^gg or bread-crumbs.

N. B. — ^Do not put too many pieces at a time into the dripping, as they must not touch each other.

FISH. 155

10. Put a piece of whity-brown paper on to a plate, and as the fish is fried, take it out of the dripping care- fully with a slice, and lay it on the paper, to drain off the grease.

N. B. — Soles, or any fish, can be fried in the same way.

N. B. — ^For frying fish in batter, dip each piece of fish in the batter, made as for meat fritters {see " Cooked Meat," Lesson Second), and fry it in the same way as above.

LESSON POTIRTEENTH.

BOILED FISH.

Ingredients (for Sauce). — One dessertspoonful of corn-flour or arrow-root. One teaspoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice.

Time required for boiling fish^ about twenty minutes to three-quarters of an hour J according to the size of the fish.

To Boil Fish and make the Sauce :

1. Put a saucepan or fish-kettle of water on the fire to boil.

2. Take the fish and clean it thoroughly in cold water.

3. When the water is quite boiling, put in the fish on a strainer or a plate. There should be enough water just to cover the fish.

4. Also put in some salt — enough to make the water taste salt.

5. Put the lid on the saucepan and move it to the side of the fire, to simmer gently for from twenty minutes to three-quarters of an hour (according to the size of the fish).

6. You must watch it, and skim it occasionally.

7. When you find that the skin of the fish is cracking, you may know that it is sufficiently boiled.

156 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

"While tlie^^A is boiling, make the Sauce:

8. Put a dessertspoonful of cornflour or arrowroot into a small saucepan, and mix it into a smooth paste with cold water.

9. IS^ow add to it half a jpint of the water in which the^^A was boiled.

10. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir it until it boils and thickens.

11. Then take the saucepan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

12. Flavor the sauce Yfiih. a teaspoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice^ and season it with jpe^per and salt according to taste.

N. B. — If liked, the sauce can be colored with half a teaspoonful of caramel (burnt sugar). {See note at end of "Brown Puree," "Australian Meat," Lesson Second.)

13. For serving, take the fish carefully out of the sauce- pan and place it on a hot dish. Pour the sauce into a sauce-boat or a basin, or round the fish.

CHAPTER XI. VEGETABLES,

LESSON FIRST.

BOILED AND STEAMED POTATOES.

Time required for boiling : Old potatoes, about half an hour ; new potaiOeSy about twenty minutes ; steamed potatoes^ half an hour.

To Boil Old Potatoes :

1. Wash two jpounds of potatoes well in cold water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush.

N. B. — If the potatoes are diseased, take a sharp knife, peel them, and carefully cut out the eyes and any black specks about the potato ; but it is much better to boil them in their skins.

2. Put them in a saucepan with cold water enough to cover them, and sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of salt.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, to boil the potatoes for from twenty minutes to half an hour.

4. Take a fork and put it into the potatoes, to try if the centre is quite tender.

5. When they are sufficiently boiled, drain off all the water, and place a clean cloth over the potatoes in the saucepan.

6. Stand the saucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid on, to steam the potatoes.

158 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. "When the potatoes have become quite dry, take them carefully out of the saucepan, peel them without breaking them, and place them in a hot vegetable-dish for serving.

To Boil New Potatoes :

1. Wash two pounds of potatoes in cold water.

2. Take a knife and scrape them.

3. Take a saucepan of warm water and put it on the fire to boil.

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in the new potatoes, and sprinkle over them a teaspoonful of salt.

6. Let them boil for a quarter of an hour ; you should take a fork and put it into the potatoes, to feel if the cen- tre is quite tender.

6. Then drain off all the water, and place a clean cloth in the saucepan over the potatoes, and stand the saucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid on.

7. When they have become quite dry, take them out of the saucepan and arrange them on a hot vegetable-dish for serving.

To Steam Potatoes :

N.B. — Old potatoes only can be steamed.

1. Wash the potatoes well in cold water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush.

N. B. — ^It is best to steam the potatoes in their skins, but they can be peeled if preferred.

2. Take a potato-steamer, fill the saucepan with hot water, and put it on the fire to boil.

3. When the water is quite boiling, put the potatoes in the steamer, and sprinkle them over with salt.

VEGETABLES. 159

4. Place the steamer on the saucepan of boiling water, and cover it down tight, to keep the steam in.

5. Let the potatoes steam for Jmlf an hour.

6. Take a fork and put it into the potatoes, to feel if the centre is quite tender.

7. When they are sufficiently steamed, take them care- fully out of the steamer and arrange them on a hot vege- table-dish for serving.

LESSON SECOND.

MASHED, SAUTE, AND BAKED POTATOES.

Ingredients (for Mashed Potatoes). — ^Two pounds of old potatoes. One ounce of butter. One gill of milk. Pepper and salt.

Ingredients (for Saut6 Potatoes). — New Potatoes. Two ounces of butter. Salt.

Time required for mashed potatoes^ forty minutes ; for saute potatoes^ half an hour ; for baked potatoes^ three-quarters of an hour.

For a dish of Mashed Potatoes:

1. Take two pounds of old potatoes, wash them, and steam them, as for steaming potatoes {see " Yegetables," Lesson First).

2. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of hutter, one gill of millc, and pejyper and salt to taste.

3. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil.

4. Place a wire sieve over a plate.

5. Take the steamed potatoes one at a time out of the steamer, put them on the sieve, and pass them through on to the plate as quickly as possible, rubbing them with a wooden spoon.

6. Take the sifted potato and stir it into the boiling milk in the stewpan.

160 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. Now beat it all lightly together, and then turn it into a hot vegetable-dish for serving.

For Saute Potatoes :

1. Take some new potatoes, as small as possible, wash them in cold water, and scrape them clean.

N. B. — ^If the potatoes are large, they should be cut in halves, or even in quarters, and trimmed.

2. Put them in a saucepan with cold water.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and only just bring them to the boil.

4. Then drain off the water, and wipe the potatoes dry in a clean cloth.

6. Take a thick stewpan and put in it two ounces of hutter and the potatoes.

6. Put the stewpan on a quick fire for about twenty minutes, to brown the potatoes. Watch them, and when they have begun to brown, toss them occasionally in the stewpan, so as to brown them on all sides alike.

7. Then strain off the butter, sprinkle them over with salt, and serve them on a hot vegetable-dish.

For Bahed Potatoes :

1. Take the potatoes, wash and scrub them well with a scrubbing-brush, in a basin of cold water.

2. Take them out of the water and dry them with a cloth.

3. Put them in a brisk oven to bake. They will take from half to three-quarters of an hour to bake, according to the heat of the oven and the size of the potatoes.

4. Take a steel fork, or skewer, and stick it into the potatoes, to see if they are done. They must be soft inside.

VEGETABLES. 161

5. Take a table-napkin, fold it, and place it on a hot dish.

6. When the potatoes are done, take them out of the oven and arrange them on the napkin for serving.

LESSON THIRD.

FRIED POTATOES.

Ingredients. — One pound of potatoes. Salt. The use of one and one* half pound of clarified fat or lard, for frying.

Time required, abotU eight minvies.

For Potato Chvps :

1. Wash the potatoes well in cold water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush.

2. Take a sharp knife, peel them, and carefully cut out the eyes and any black specks about them.

3. Now peel the potatoes very thinly in ribbons, and twist them into fancy shapes.

4. Take a saucepan and put in it one pound and a half of clarified fat or la/rd.

6. Put the saucepan on the fire, to heat the fat. Test the heat of it with a piece of bread {see Lesson on " Fry- ing").

6. Take a frying-basket and put in it the ribbons of potato.

7. When the fat is quite hot, put in the frying-basket with the potatoes for about six minutes.

8. Place a piece of whity-brown paper on a plate.

9. When the chips are done, they should be quite crisp and of a pale-brown color. Turn them out on to the paper, to drain off the grease, and sprinkle over them a little salt.

10. Serve them on a hot dish.

162 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

For Fried Slices of Potato :

1. Take the potatoes, wash them clean, and peel them with a sharp knife.

2. Put the potatoes on a board, and cut them in slices about one-eighth of an inch in thickness.

3. Take a saucepan and put in it one and a halfjpound of clarified dripping or la/rd.

4. Take a frying-basket and place in it the sliced potatoes.

6. Put the saucepan on the fire, to warm the/b^.

6. When ih^fat is warm, but not very hot, place in it the frying-basket with the slices of potatoes, and let them boil in the fat until they are quite tender.

N. B. — ^You should take out a piece of potato and press it between the thumb and finger, to feel that it is quite tender.

7. I^ow take out the frying-basket with the potatoes and place it on a plate.

8. Leave the fat on the fire to heat.

9. When the fat is quite hot, place in the frying-bas- ket with t\\Q potatoes for about two minutes.

10. Put a piece of whity- brown paper on a plate.

11. When the potatoes are fried, they should be a pale- brown color. Turn them out on to the paper, to drain off the grease.

12. Sprinkle a little salt over them.

13. For serving, arrange them on a hot dish.

VEGETABLES. 163

LESSON FOURTH.

POTATO CROQUETTES.

Ingredients (for eighteen croquettes). — ^Two pounds of potatoes. One ounce of butter. One tablespoonful of milk. Three eggs. A small bunch of parsley. Bread-crumbs. Pepper and salt.

Time required, about one hour.

To make Potato Croquettes :

1. Take two jpomtds of potatoes^ wash, scrub, and boil or steam tbem {see " Vegetables," Lesson First).

N. B. — Any remains of cold potatoes could be used up in this way, instead of boiling fresh ones.

2. Place a wire sieve over a plate.

3. Take the potatoes one at a time, place them on the sieve, and rub them through with a wooden spoon as quickly as possible on to the plate.

N. B. — The potatoes can be passed through the sieve much quicker while they are hot.

4. Put one ounce of Imtter and a tdblespoonful of milk into a stewpan, and put it on the fire.

5. "When the milk and butter are hot, stir in smoothly the sifted potato.

6. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

7. Break two eggs, put the whites in a cup (as they are not required for present use), and stir the yolks, one at a time, into ihe potato in the stewpan.

8. Take two or three sprigs of parsley, wash them in cold water, dry them in a cloth, and chop them up finely on a board. There should be about a teaspoonful.

104 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

9. Sprinkle the parsley into the stewpan, and season the potato according to taste yfith. pepper and salt.

10. Turn the potato mixture on to a plate, and stand it aside till cold.

11. Put one pound of claHfied dripping into a deep stewpan, and put it on the fire to heat ; be careful that it does not burn.

12. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through a wire sieve on to a piece of paper.

13. When the potato mixture is cold, form it into cro- quettes or balls, according to taste.

14. Break an egg on to a plate, and beat it up slightly with a knife.

15. Dip the croquettes into the egg, and Qgg them well all over with a paste-brush.

16. 1^0 w roll them in the bread-crumbs, covering them well all over.

N. B. — ^Be careful to cover them smoothly, and not too thickly.

17. Take a frying-basket and arrange the croquettes in it ; but you must finger them as little as possible, and not allow them to touch each other.

18. When the fat on the fire is quite hot and smoking (test the heat by throwing in a piece of Iread, which should fry brown directly), put in the frying-basket for two minutes or so, to fry the croquettes a pale-yellow.

19. Put a piece of whity -brown paper on a plate, and as the croquettes are fried, turn them on to the paper, to drain ofi* the grease.

20. Put three or four small sprigs of parsley (washed and dried) into the frying-basket, and just toss the basket into the boiling fat for a second or so.

21. For serving, arrange the croquettes tastily on a hot dish, with the fried parsley in the centre.

VEGETABLES. 165

lESSON PIPTH.

BRUSSELS 8PK0UTS.

Ingredients. — Brussels sprouts. Salt. One-quarter of a salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda. One ounce of butter. Pepper.

Time required^ about half an hour.

To Dress Brussels Sprouts :

1. Take the Brussels sprouts, wash them well in two or three waters, and trim them.

2. Take a saucepan with plenty of warm water in it.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

4. "When the water is quite boiling, add a tablespoon- f ul of salt and a quarter of a salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda.

6. Put in the sprouts, and let them boil quickly for from ten to twenty minutes, according to their age.

N. B. — ^Young sprouts take the shortest time to boil.

6. Keep the lid off the saucepan the whole time.

7. After that time, pour the sprouts into a colander to drain.

8. When the sprouts are quite dry, put them in a saute-pan with one ounce of butter.

9. Sprinkle over them a \\it\e pepper and salt, and toss them over the fire for a few minutes ; but they must not fry.

10. For serving, arrange them tastily on a hot vegeta- ble-dish.

166 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SIXTH.

CARROTS AND TURNIPS.

Ingredients* — Carrots or turnips. Two tablespoonfuls of salt. Half a pint of good stock. Dessertspoonful of castor-sugar. Half an ounce of butter.

Time required, about three-quarters of an hxmr.

For Carrots:

1. Take a saucepan of water and put it on the fire to boil.

2. When the water is quite boiling, add a tablesjpoon- ful of salt.

3. Take the carrots, and if they are quite young, put them into the saucepan of boiling water, to boil for twenty minutes.

4. Take a fork and stick it in the carrots, to feel that they are quite tender all through.

5. You should let them boil for from half an hour to three-quarters of an hour.

6. After that time, take them out of the saucepan and rub them clean with a cloth.

N. B. — If the carrots are old, you should wash, scrape them clean with a knife, and cut them to the shape of young carrots, or cut them out with a round cutter, before boiling.

7. Take a stewpan and put the boiled carrots in it.

8. Pour in some good stock — enough to cover them.

9. Put in a piece of hutter the size of a nut, and sprin- kle a little white castor-sugar over them.

10. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and reduce to a glaze over the carrots.

11. Then take them out of the stewpan, and they are ready for use.

VEGETABLES. 167

For Turnips :

1. Take the turnips and wash them well in cold water.

2. Take them out of the water, put them on a board, peel them with a sharp knife, and cut them in quarters, or cut them out with a round cutter.

3. Take a saucepan of water and put it on the fire to boil.

4. "When the water is quite boiling, add a tablespoon- f ul of salt.

6. Now put in the cut-up turnips, and let them boil for from ten to fifteen minutes.

6. When they are sufficiently boiled, take them out of the saucepan and put them into a stewpan with some good stoch — enough to cover them.

7. Add to them a piece of hutter^ and sprinkle over them about a teasjpoonful of castor-sugar,

8. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and reduce to a glaze over the turnips.

9. Then take them out of the stewpan, and they are ready for serving.

N. B. — Turnips and carrots as prepared above may be served with braised veal {see "Braised Fillet of Veal"), or separately as a vegetable.

lESSON SEVENTH.

BOILED CAULIFLOWER, AND CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.

Ingredients. — Cauliflower. Salt. Half an ounce of butter. One ounce of flour. Tablespoonful of cream. Two ounces of Parmesan cheese. Cayenne pepper.

Time required^ abotU one hour.

To Dress a Cauliflower :

1. Take a cauliflower and wash it well in two or three

168 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

waters, and take a knife and cut off the end of tlie stalk and any withered outside leaves.

2. Put it in a basin of cold water with a dessertspoon- ful of salt^ and let it stand for two or three minutes.

3. Take a large saucepan full of water and put it on the fire to boil.

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in a table- spoonful of salt.

6. Take the cauliflower out of the salt and water and place it in a saucepan, with the flower downward, and let it boil till it is quite tender — ^from fifteen to twenty minutes.

6. Take it out with a slice, and feel the centre with your finger, to see that it is quite tender.

7. When done, take it out of the saucepan and put it on a sieve.

8. For serving, place it on a hot vegetable-dish.

If CoMlifiower an Gratin be required :

1. Take the cauliflower and wash it, and boil it in the same way as described above, from I^ote 1 to l^ote 6.

2. When the cauliflower is sufiiciently boiled, take it out of the saucepan with a slice and put it on a plate.

3. Take a knife and cut off all the outside green leaves.

4. Take a cloth and squeeze all the water out of the cauliflower.

5. Put half an ounce of butter and one ounce of flour into a stewpan, and mix them well together with a wooden spoon.

6. Pour in one gill of cold water.

7. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir smoothly until it boils and thickens.

8. !Now add one tdblesjpoonful of cream^ a little salt^ and a few grains of Cayenne ;pej[>per, according to taste.

VEGETABLES. 169

9. Stand tlie stewpan bj the side of the fire, until the sauce is required for use.

10. Take two ounces of Parmesan cheese and grate it with a grater on to a piece of paper.

11. Now take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

12. Stir rather more than haK the grated cheese into the sauce.

13. Place the cauliflower on a tin dish.

14. Pour the sauce all over the cauliflower,

15. Take the remainder of the grated cheese and sprin- kle it over the cauliflower, and brown the top of it with a hot salamander.

16. The cauliflower should become a pale-brown, and be served hot.

LESSON EIGHTH.

SPINACH.

Ingredients. — Two pounds of spinach. Salt. Three ounces of butter. Half a gill of cream. Pepper. A slice of bread.

Time required, about half an hour.

To Dress Spinach :

1. Take two pounds of spinach and place it on a board.

2. Pick off all the stalks from the leaves.

3. Put the leaves in plenty of cold water, and wash them two or three times.

4. Turn the spinach on to a colander to drain.

5. Take a large saucepan and put the spinach into it ; sprinkle a salt-spoonful of salt over it, and put it on the fire to boil. The drops of water on the leaves and their own juice are sufficient, without adding any water.

170 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Let it boil quickly for ten minutes, with the cover off.

7. Then pour the spinach into the colander to drain.

8. I^ow press all the water out of the spinach, squeez- ing it quite dry.

9. Put it on a board and chop it up as finely as pos- sible.

N. B. — If preferred, the spinach might be rubbed through a wire sieve, instead of being chopped up.

10. Take a stewpan and put in it one ounce of butter.

11. Put the sjpinach into the stewpan, and add about half a salt-spoonful of jpepjper and a salt-spoonful of salt, or more, according to taste, and half a gill of cream, and mix all together with a wooden spoon.

12. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir until it is quite hot.

13. Cut a slice of crumb of bread about a quarter of an inch in thickness, put it on a board, and cut it up into triangular pieces.

14. Take a frying-pan and put into it two ounces of hut- ter or clarified dripping,

15. Put the frying-pan on the fire, to heat the fat.

16. When the fat is quite hot, throw in the pieces of bread, and let them fry a pale-brown.

17. Take the pieces of fried bread and arrange them round a hot vegetable-dish, to form a wall.

18. Serve the dressed spinach in the centre.

VEGETABLES. 171

LESSON NINTH.

PEAS.

Ingredients. — Half a peck of peas. Salt. Quarter of a salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda. Half an ounce of butter. Castor-sugar.

7?mc required^ about half an hour.

To Dress Peas :

1. Take ^^jpeas and shell them.

2. Take a saucepan full of warm water and put it on the fire to boil.

3. When the water is quite boiling, put in the shelled peas, a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a salt-spoonful of ca/rbonate of soda,

N. B. — The soda will keep the peas a good color.

4. Let them boil for from fifteen to twenty minutes, according to the age of the peas. (The cover should be off the saucepan.)

6. After that time, feel the peas, that they are quite soft ; then take them out of the saucepan, and drain off all the water in a colander.

6. Now turn the peas into a saute-pan, with Jialf an ounce of lutter,

7. Sprinkle half a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoon- ful of castor-sugar over the peas, and toss them over the fire for a few minutes ; but they must not fry.

8. For serving, arrange them on a hot vegetable-dish.

172 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON TENTH.

HARICOT BEANS.

Ingredients. — One pint of beans. One ounce of butter. A sprig of par- sley. Pepper and salt. Quarter of an ounce of clarified dripping.

Time required {after the hearts are soaked)^ about two hours and ten minutes.

To Boil Haricot Beans, and serve them with parsley and hutter :

1. Soak one pint of haricot leans in cold water all night.

2. Put them into a saucepan with three pints of cold water and a quarter of an ounce of clarified dripping.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when it boils, move it rather to the side of the fire, and let it boil very gently for two hours,

4. After that time, turn the beans on to a colander, drain off the water, and put the beans back into a dry saucepan, with one ounce of hutter.

6. Take a sprig of parsley, wash it, and dry it in a cloth, put it on a board, and chop it up as finely as pos- sible.

6. Sprinkle the parsley over the beans, and season them ^iih. pepper and salt.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the contents carefully for about ^^ minutes.

8. For serving, turn the beans on to a hot dish.

VEGETABLES. 173

LESSON ELEVENTH. TUENIPS.

Ingredients* — Four large turnips. One ounce of butter. Pepper and salt. . Time required^ about three-quarters of an hour.

To Boil Turnips and Mash tliein :

1. Put two quarts of warm water and a iahlespoonful of salt into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

2. Take some turnips, wash them in cold water, and peel them thickly with a sharp knife.

3. If the turnips are very large, cut them in quarters.

4. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the turnips, and let them boil gently until they are quite tender.

6. Feel them with a fork, to see if they are tender all through.

6. Then turn them into a colander and drain them very dry.

7. For serving, put them on to a hot dish.

K Mashed Turnips are required :

8. Boil them as above.

9. Squeeze them as dry as possible in the colander, pressing them with a plate.

10. When the turnips are quite free from water, hold the colander over a saucepan and rub them through with a wooden spoon.

11. Put one ounce of hutter into the saucepan with the turnips, smd pepper and salt to taste.

12. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the contents

174 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

until the butter is well mixed with the turnips and they are thoroughly warmed through.

13. For serving, turn them on to a hot dish.

LESSON TWELFTH. CARROTS.

To Boil Ca/rrots:

1. Put two quarts of warm water into a saucepan, with one good tablesjpoonful of salt and a small piece of soda the size of a chestnut, and put it on the fire to boil.

2. Take the carrots and cut off the green tops, and wash them well in cold water.

3. Scrape the carrots clean with a sharp knife, and carefully remove any black specks.

4. If the carrots are very large, cut them in halves and quarters.

6. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the carrots and let them boil until they are tender.

N. B. — Young carrots need not be cut up, nor do they take bo long to boil as old ones.

6. For serving, turn the carrots into a colander to drain, and then put them on a hot dish.

LESSON THIRTEENTH. RICE.

To^oilEice:

1. Take a large stewpan and pour in iifour quarts of water,

2. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil the water.

3. Take half a pound of rice, put it in a basin of cold water, and wash it well.

VEGETABLES. 175

4. Drain off the water and rub the rice with your hands.

5. Be careful to pick out all the yellow grains and bits of black.

6. Wash the rice in this manner four times.

7. Just before putting the rice on to boil, you must pour some fresh cold water over it.

8. When the water in the stewpan is quite boiling, throw the rice into it, stirring it round with a spoon.

9. Add one-quarter of a teaspoonf ul of salt, which will make the scum rise.

10. Take a spoon and skim it occasionally.

11. The rice should boil fast from fifteen to twenty mmutes.

N. B. — To test if the rice is sufficiently boiled, take out a grain or two, and press it between the thumb and finger, and if quite done, it will mash.

12. Kow pour the rice out of the saucepan into a colan- der, to drain off the water.

13. Take the colander which contains the rice and hold it under the tap.

14. Turn the tap and let the cold water run on to the rice for one or two seconds. This is to separate the grains of rice.

15. Take a clean dry stewpan and put it at the side of the fire.

16. When the water is quite drained from the rice, turn it from the colander into the dry stewpan at the side of the fire.

17. Put the lid half on the stewpan.

18. Watch it, and stir it occasionally, to prevent the grains from sticking to the bottom of the stewpan.

19. When the rice is quite dry, take it out carefully with a wooden spoon, and place it lightly on to a hot dish.

176 LESSONS IN COOKERY,

LESSON FOURTEENTH.

MACAEONI.

Ingredients. — One-half a pound of macaroni. Salt. One quart of skimmed milk. Two ounces of cheese. One ounce of butter. Pepper and Cay- enne pepper.

Time required^ ahovi one hour and three-quarters.

To Cook Macaroni :

1. Take half abound of macaroni, wash it, and put it in a saucepan of cold water , with one tdblesjpoonful of salt.

2. Put the saucepan on the lire, bring it to the boil, and let it boil gently for half an hour.

3. After that time, pour the water out of the saucepan.

4. Put one quart of skimmed milk into the saucepan.

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, just bring it to the boil, and then move it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for one hour.

6. When the macaroni is sufiaciently cooked and quite tender, turn it out on a hot dish, and it can be eaten with sugar or treacle.

N. B. — If liked, macaroni and cTieese can be made of it.

7. For macaroni and cheese, take two ounces of cheese and grate it with a grater on to a piece of paper.

8. Take a dish, or a tin, and grease it well inside with a piece of dripping or butter.

9. When the macaroni is sufficiently cooked (as above), turn it out of the saucepan on to the greased dish.

10. Sprinkle over it jpepper and salt, and two or three grains of Cayenne pepper, according to taste ; or, about half a teaspoonful of mustard might be mixed with it.

11. Stir part of the grated cheese into the macaroni, and sprinkle the remainder over the top.

VEGETABLES. 177

12. Take one ounce of hutter, cut it in small pieces, and put these pieces of butter about on the top of the macaroni.

13. Put the dish in the oven (the heat should rise to 240°), or in a Dutch oven before the fire, for ten minutes / it should become a pale-brown.

14. It will then be ready for serving.

LESSON FIFTEENTH.

STEWED MACARONI.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of macaroni. Salt and pepper. One pint of stock.

Time required^ ahout forty minutes.

To Stew Macaroni :

1. Take half a pound of macaroni^ wash it, and put it in a saucepan, with plenty of cold water and a dessert- sjpoonful of salt.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire, bring it to the boil, and let it boil gently for ten minutes,

3. After that time, put the macaroni into a colander, take it to the tap, and turn some cold water on it.

4. IN'ow let the macaroni drain in the colander.

6. Then turn it on a board and cut it up in pieces.

6. Put one pint of stock into a saucepan.

7. Put the macaroni into the stock, and season it with jpejyper and salt according to taste.

8. Put the saucepan on the fire, just bring it to the boil, and then move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes,

N. B. — The lid should be on the saucepan.

9. For serving, turn the macaroni out on a hot dish.

CHAPTER XII. SAUCES.

LESSON FIRST.

WHITE SAUCE.

Ingredients. — One pint of white stock. Two ounces of butter. One and one-half ounce of flour. Six mushrooms. Half a pint of cream.

Time required {if the stock is made), about half an hour.

To make White Sauce :

1. Put two ounces of hutter into a stewpan.

2. Put the stewpan on the fire, and when the butter is melted, stir in one ounce cmd a half of flour with a wooden spoon.

3. Add one pint of white stock, and stir it until it boils (see Lesson on " Stock ").

4. Take half a dozen mushrooms, wash them, and peel them.

5. Add them to the sauce.

6. Let it come to the boil again ; then move the stew- pan to the side of the fire, with the lid half on, to simmer for twenty minutes, to throw up the butter.

7. As the butter rises, skim it off with an iron spoon.

SAUCES. 179

8. Strain the sauce tlirough a tammy-cloth into an- other saucepan.

9. Put this saucepan on the fire, and stir till it boils ; then add half a pint of cream.

10. Pour it into a basin and stir while it cools. It is then ready for use.

LESSON SECOND.

BEOWN SAUCE.

Ingredients* — One pint of brown stock. One and one-half ounce of flour. Salt and pepper. Two ounces of butter. Four mushrooms.

Jlme required^ abcrut fifteen mimttes.

To make Brown Sauce :

1. Put two oimces of butter into a stewpan, and put it on the fire to melt.

2. Take four mushrooms, if large, or six small, wash them well in cold water, cut off the ends of the stalks, and peel them.

3. When the butter in the stewpan is melted, stir in two ounces of flour, and mix them into a smooth paste with a wooden spoon.

4. Now add one pint of brown stock and the mush- rooms, and stir the sauce smoothly over the fire until it boils and thickens.

N. B. — The mushrooms might be omitted if liked, and the sauce fla- vored according to the dish with which it is to be served.

6. Then move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes.

6. Watch it carefully, and skim off all the butter as it rises to the top of the sauce.

180 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. Season the sauce with j>epper and salt according to taste.

N. B. — If the sauce is not brown enough in color, a teaspoonful of caramel {burnt sugar) might be stirred into it.

8. !Now strain the sauce through a tammy-sieve into a basin, and it is then ready for use.

LESSON THIED.

MAYONNAISE SAUCE.

Ingredients. — Two eggs. Salt and pepper. One teaspoonful of French vinegar. One teaspoonful of mustard. One teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. One gill of salad-oil.

Time required^ about ten minutes.

To make Mayonnaise Sauce :

1. Take two eggs, and put the yolJcs in one basin and the whites (which will not be wanted) into another basin.

2. Take a wooden spoon and just stir the yolks enough to break them.

3. Add to them a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt- s;poonful of pepper, and a tdblespoonful of French vin- egar.

4. Take a bottle of salad-oil, and, putting your thumb half over the top, pour in, drop by drop, the oil, stirring well with a whisk the whole time. A gill of the oil will be enough.

N. B.— Add a teaspoonful of ready-made mustard, or tarragon vinegar if liked, stirring it in smoothly.

5. The sauce is now ready for use.

SAUCES. 181

LESSON FOUETH. SAUCE PIQUANTE.

Ingredients. — One shallot. Half a carrot. Three mushrooms. One ounce of butter. One ounce of flour. Half a pint of good brown stock. One sprig of thyme. One bay-leaf. Salt and Cayenne pepper. Two table- spoonfuls of vinegar.

Time required, about twenty-five minutes.

To make Sauce Piquante, or Sharp Sauce :

1. Take a shallot and three mushrooms, and peel them, scrape half a carrot, and then chop them up very finely on a board.

2. Put the shallot, carrot, and mushrooms into a stew- pan with one ounce of hutter.

3. Put the stewpan on the fire and fry them brown.

4. Then stir in one ounce of flour and half a pint of good hrown stock {see Lesson on " Stock ").

6. Also add one sprig of thyme, a hay-leaf and one tallespoonful of Harvey sauce, and stir the sauce well until it boils.

6. Then remove the stewpan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer for twenty minutes.

7. Season the sauce with salt according to taste, a few grains of Cayenne pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of vin- egar.

8. Strain the sauce, and it is then ready for use.

182 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON FIFTH. DUTCH SAUCE.

Ingredients. — Half a pint of melted butter. Five yolks of eggs. Salt and Cayenne pepper. Two teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice.

Time required^ about ten minutes.

To make Dutch Sauce :

1. Take half a pint of melted butter and put it into a stewpan.

2. Add the yolks of five eggs.

3. Stand the stewpan in a saucepan of hot water over the fire, and stir well with a wooden spoon.

4. Season it with salt and a few grains of Cayenne pepper.

6. Stir continually until it thickens; and you must not let the sauce boil, or it will curdle.

6. Just before the sauce is finished, stir in two tea- spoonfuls of lemon-juice.

CHAPTER XIII PAST BY.

LESSON FIRST.

PUFF-PASTE.

Ingredients. — Quarter of a pound of flour. Quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Yolk of one egg. Salt. A few drops of lemon-juice.

Time required^ one hour and a quarter.

To make Puff-Paste :

1. Take a quarter of a jpound of flour and put it in a heap on a clean board, and make a well in the centre of the flour.

2. Put half of the yolk of an eg^ in the well.

3. Add six drops of lemon-juice.

4. Lay a quarter of a pound of butter in a clean cloth.

5. Fold the cloth over the butter and squeeze it, to get all the water out of the butter.

6. Mix all these ingredients together with your hands, adding water to make the paste of the same consistence as the squeezed butter.

7. Take a rolling-pin and flour it, and also sprinkle a little flour on the board, to prevent the paste from sticking.

8. Roll out the paste rather thin, to about a quarter of an inch in thickness.

184 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

9. Place the pat of squeezed butter on one-half of the paste, and fold the other half over the butter so as to cover it entirely, pressing the edges together with your thumb.

10. Let it stand on a plate in a cool place for a quarter of an hour.

N. B. — It is not necessary to do this in cold weather ; it might be rolled at once.

11. Bring the paste back and place it on the board; roll it out with the rolling-pin, and fold it over in three.

12. Turn it round, with the rough edges toward you.

13. Roll it again and fold it in three.

14. Put it aside again for a quarter of an hour.

15. Bring it back on the board and roll it with a rolling- pin, and fold in three twice, as before.

16. Put it aside again for a quarter of an hour.

17. Bring it back to the board and roll it and fold it in three as before.

18. Put it aside for another quarter of an hour.

19. Bring it back to the board and roll it out ready either to cover an apple-tart, to make tartlets, or patty- cases.

20. If the paste is used for an apple-tart, put it over the apples in the same way as the short crust over the fruit- tart {see " Pastry," Lesson Second).

21. If the paste is used for tartlets, it should be one- eighth of an inch thick.

22. Take the tartlet-tins and wet them with the paste- hrush.

23. Cut the paste out with a cutter a size larger than the tins. The cutter must be floured, or the paste will stick to it.

PASTRY. 185

24. Fix the paste into the tins, and put a dummy, to prevent the paste rising straight. 26. Put the tins on a baking-sheet.

26. Put the baking-sheet in a hot oven for six minutes / the heat of the oven should rise to 300° Fahr., according to the thermometer fixed in the oven.

27. When the tartlets are baked sufficiently, take them out of the oven.

28. Take out the dummies, and turn the paste out of the tin.

29. Fill in the tartlets with jam.

K Patty- Ca^es are required:

1. Take the puff-jpaste (it should be half an inch thick) and stamp it out with a round cutter, the usual size of an oyster patty.

2. Take these cut rounds and place them on a baking- sheet.

3. Take a round cutter, three sizes smaller, and dip it in hot water, and stamp the cut rounds of paste in the centre, but not right through.

4. Put the baking-sheet in a hot oven for six minutes.

N. B. — The heat of the oven should be the same as for tartlets.

5. When the jpatties are sufficiently baked, take the baking-sheet out of the oven.

6. The cut centre of each patty-case will have risen so that we can take it off.

7. Take a small knife, and with the point cut out all moist paste from the centre of the patty-case.

8. Now the cases are ready to be filled in with either prepared oysters, minced vealj chicken, or pheasant, etc., according to taste.

186 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SECOND.

SHORT OKUST.

Ingredients. — Six ounces of flour. Four ounces of butter. One ounce of powdered sugar. Yolk of one egg. Salt. A teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

jn,me required for making^ ahotU a quarter of an hour.

To make Short Crust :

1. Take six ounces of flour and/Jwr ounces of hutter.

2. Put these on a clean board and mix them well to- gether, rubbing them lightly with your hands until there are no lumps of butter left, and the flour and butter re- semble sifted bread-crumbs.

3. Take a large tablespoonful of powdered sugar.

4. Mix the sugar well into the buttered flour. ^■^ 5» Heap it on the board, making a well in the centre.

6. Take the yolk of one egg and place it in the well.

7. Sprinkle a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt over the^g.

8. Add a teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

9. Add a large tablespoonful of cold water.

10. Slowly and lightly mix all these ingredients with your fingers until they are formed into a stiff paste.

11. Keep your hands and the board well floured, that the paste may not stick.

12. Fold the paste over, and knead it lightly with your knuckles. ^

13. Take a rolling-pin and fl>our it, and roll out thSM^ paste to the size and thickness required. ^^

14. If the paste is for a fruit-tart, roll it out to the shape of the pie-dish, only a little larger, and to the thickness of about a qua/rter of cm mch^

PASTRY. 187

15. Arrange the fruit in the pie-dish, heaped up in the centre.

16. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of moist sugar over the fruit, or more or less, according to the fruit used.

17. Take a paste-brush, and wet the edge of the dish with water or a little white of egg.

18. Cut a strip of the paste the width of the edge of the pie-dish, and place it round the edge of the dish.

19. Take the paste-brush again, and wet the edge of the paste with water or white of egg.

20. Take the remaining paste and lay it over the pie- dish, pressing it down with your thumb all round the edge.

21. Be very careful not to break the paste.

22. Take a knife and trim off all the rough edges of the paste round the edge of the dish.

23. Take a knife and with the back of the blade make little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing the paste firmly with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place.

^ 24. Take a skewer and make a little hole through the _paste on either side of the tart, to let out the steam.

25. Take the paste-brush and wet the tart all over with water.

26. Sprinkle some powdered sugar over it; this is to glaze it.

27. Now put the tart into a hot oven (the heat of the oven should rise to 240° Fahr.) for half an hour or three- quarters of an hour, acceding to the size of the tart. Watch it occasionally, and turn it, to prevent its burning. It should become a pale-brown.

188 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIRD.

GENOESE PASTRY.

Ingredients. — Six ounces of flour. Six ounces of butter. Eight ounces of powdered sugar. Seven eggs.

Time required^ about one Jwur.

To make Genoese Pasi/ry :

1. Take a small stewpan and put in it six ounces of hutter.

2. Put the stewpan on the fire, to melt the butter. Be careful that it does not burn or boil.

3. Take a round tin two inches deep, and fit into it a sheet of paper, cut round so that it will allow one inch of paper to be above the edge of the tin.

4. Butter the paper with a paste-brush dipped in the melted butter.

6. Stand a wire sieve over a plate, and rub through it six ounces of flour,

6. Take a large basin and break into it seven eggs.

7. Add half a pound of powdered sugar.

8. Take a large saucepan of boiling water and put it on the fire.

9. Stand the basin with the eggs and sugar in the saucepan of boiling water, and whip the eggs and sugar for twenty minutes ; they must not get very hot.

10. Take the basin out of the saucepan and stand it on the table.

11. Kow add the butter, and then sprinkle in the sifted flour, stirring lightly with a wooden spoon all the time.

12. Pour this mixture into the prepared tin.

13. Put the tin into a quick oven, to bake for half an hour. The mixture should become a pale-brown.

PASTRY. 189

N. B. — When the paste is sufficiently baked, no mark should remain on it if pressed with the finger.

14. When it is quite baked, take the tin out of the oven and turn the cake upside down on a hair-sieve, to cool.

15. When it is cold, cut it into little shapes with a cutter. Sandwiches of jam can be made with it if required.

LESSON POURTH.

ROUGH PUFF-PASTE.

Ingredients. — Eight ounces of flour. Six ounces of butter. The yolk of one egg. Salt. One-half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

Time required, about a quarter of an hour.

To make Rough Puff-Paste :

1. Take eight ounces of flour and six ounces of lutter, and put them on a clean board.

2. Take a knife and chop up the butter in the flour.

3. Heap it on the board, making a well in the centre.

4. Take the yolk of one egg and place it in the well.

5. Sprinkle a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt over the egg, and squeeze half a teaspoonful of lemonrjuice.

6. Add a lanrge tdblespoonful of cold water, and beat it up slightly with a knife.

7. Now slowly, and lightly, mix it all with your fin- gers, adding more water if necessary, until it is formed into a stifi paste.

8. Keep your hands and the board well floured, that the paste may not stick.

9. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste, and fold it over in half.

10. Turn it round with the rough edges toward you.

190 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

11. Roll it again, and fold it in half.

12. Roll out the paste and fold it twice more, as before.

N. B. — The paste is now ready to be used for a meat-pie, apple-tart, tartlets, etc. The heat of the oven should rise to 280°, but it must be reduced down to 220° after the first quarter of an hour.

LESSON PIFTH.

SUET-CRUST FOR BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of flour. Five ounces of beef-suet. Two pounds of rump or beef steak. Pepper and salt. One dozen oysters. One gill of stock.

l^me required, about three hxmrs and a half.

To make Suet- Crust, to be used for either a Beef -steals Pudding or Eoly-Poly, etc. :

1. Take^w ounces ofheef-suet and put it on a board.

2. Take a knife and cut away all the skin, and chop up the suet as fine as possible.

3. Put half a pound of flour into a basin, and add to it the cTwpjped suet and a teasjpoonful of salt.

4. Rub the suet well into the flour with your hands.

5. Then add, by degrees, enough cold water to make it into a smooth paste. You should mix it well.

6. Take the paste out of the basin, and put it on a board.

7. Take a rolling-pin and flour it. Sprinkle flour on the board, to prevent the paste from sticking.

8. Roll out the paste once, to the thickness of rather more than one-eighth of an inch.

N. B. — Now the paste is ready for use ; and if it is required for beef- steak pudding —

PASTRY. 191

9. Take a quart pudding-basin and butter it well in- side.

10. Line the basin smootblj inside with paste.

11. Take a knife, flour it, and cut away the paste that is above the edge of the basin.

12. Fold this paste together, and roll it out to a round the size of the top of the basin, one-eighth of an inch in thickness.

13. Take two pounds of rurrvp or heef steak, put it on a board, and cut it into thin slices.

14. Flour the slices well (using about a tdblespoonful of flour), and season them with plenty oi pepper and salt.

15. Take one dozen oysters and the liquor that is with them, and put them into a saucepan.

16. Put the saucepan on the fire, and just bring them to the boil.

N. B. — ^This is to blanch the oysters.

17. Take the saucepan off the fire, and strain the oyster- liquor into a basin.

18. Take the oysters and lay them on a plate.

19. Cut off the beards and all the hard parts of the oys- ters, leaving only the soft part.

20. Roll up the slices of beef-steak, and fill the basin with the meat and the oysters.

N. B. — If oysters be disliked, kidneys might be used instead, or the pudding might be flavored with shallot, parsley, and mushrooms, according to taste.

21. Now pour into the basin the liquor from the oysters, and one gill of stock (see Lesson on " Stock").

22. "Wet the paste round the edge of the basin with cold water, and cover over the top of the basin with the round of paste.

192 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

23. Join the paste together at the edge of the basin, pressing down with your thumb.

24. Flour a pudding-cloth and lay it over the top of the basin, tying it on tightly with a piece of twine.

25. Put a large saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

26. When it is quite boiling, put in the pudding and let it boil for three hours.

27. For serving, take off the cloth and turn the pudding out of the basin on to a hot dish.

LESSON SIXTH.

SHORT CRUST FOR APPLE TURNOVERS AND APPLE DUMPLINGS.

Ingredients. — Three-quarters of a pound of flour. One-quarter of a pound of clarified dripping or butter. Half a teaspoonful of baking-powder. Three apples. Three teaspoonfuls of moist sugar.

To make Apple Turnovers :

1. Peel, quarter, and core three apples, and cut them into thin slices.

N. B. — One apple is required for each turnover.

N. B. — To make fruit-pie or apple dumplings, see below.

2. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a basin, and mix into it half a teaspoonful of baking-powder.

3. Eub well into the flour, with your hands, a quarter of a pound of clarified dripping or butter.

4. Add enough cold water to moisten, and mix into a stiff paste.

5. Flour a board and turn the paste on to it.

PASTRY. 193

6. Flour a rolling-pin, and roll out the paste to about a quarter of an inch in thickness.

7. Cut the paste into rounds; each round should be about the size of a small plate.

8. Lay the apple on one-half of the round of paste, and sprinkle over it one teaspoonful of moist sugar.

9. Wet the edges of the paste, fold the paste over the apple, pressing the edges together with your thumb.

N. B.— Be careful to join the paste together on all sides, or the juice of the apple will run out while it is cooling.

10. Grease a tin with a little dripping, and place the turnovers on it.

11. Put the tin into the oven (the heat of it should rise to 220°) to bake for a quarter of cm hour.

12. For serving, place the turnovers on a hot dish.

For Baked Apple Dumplings :

1. Divide the paste into three portions.

2. Take three apples, peel them, and cut out the core from the centre.

N. B. — Do not cut the apples in. pieces.

3. Fill the centre of the apples with moist sugar.

4. Press each apple into the centre of each portion of paste, and gradually work the paste over the apple, until the apple is entirely covered in.

N. B. — You must be very careful to join the paste together as neatly as possible, so as not to show the join ; and there must be no cracks in the paste.

5. Grease a tin as described above, place the dumplings

194: LESSONS IN COOKERY.

on it, and put it in the oven (the heat should rise to 220°) to bake for a quarter of an hour.

6. For serving, take the dumplings off the tin, and put them on a hot dish.

1. If the jpaste is for a Fruit-Pie^ roll it out to the shape of the pie-dish, only a little larger, and to the thick- ness of about a quarter of an inch.

2. Arrange the fruit in the pie-dish, heaped up in the centre.

3. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of moist sugar over the fruit, or more or less, according to \hQ fruit used.

4. Take a paste-brush and wet the edge of the dish with water, or a little white of ^g'g.

6. Cut a strip of the paste the width of the edge of the pie-dish, and place it round the edge of the dish.

6. Take the paste-brush again and wet the edge of the paste with water or white of ^g^.

7. Take the remaining paste and lay it over the pie- dish, pressing it down with your thumb all round the edge.

8. Be very careful not to break the paste.

9. Take a knife and trim off all the rough edges of the paste round the edge of the dish.

10. Take a knife, and with the back of the blade make little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing the paste firmly with your thumb to keep it in its proper place.

11. Take a skewer and make a little hole through the jpaste on either side of the tart^ to let out the steam.

12. Take the paste-brush and wet the tart all over with water.

13. Sprinkle some pounded loaf-sugar over the tart, to glaze it.

14. Now put it into the oven (the heat should rise to

^y- " ^'^oi 1 V UP CALtr

HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE

PASTRY. 195

240°) for half or three-quarters of an hour, according to the size of the tart. Look at it occasionally, and turn it to prevent its burning. It should become a pale-brown.

N.B. — If better crust is wanted for apple turnovers, see "Pastry," Lesson Second.

LESSON SEVENTH. FLAKT CEUST FOR PIES AND TAETS.

Ingredients. — One pound of flour. Half a pound of butter. Two e^s. One teaspoonful of baking-powder.

Time required to make the pastry^ about a quarter of an Jwur.

To make Flaky Crust for Fies or Tarts :

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin, and mix into it a teasjpoonful of hahing-powder.

2. Break two eggs, put the whites on a plate (the yolks put aside in a cup), and whip them to a stiff froth with a knife.

3. Add the whipped whites of the eggs to the flour, and mix it into a stiff paste with water (about one gill).

4. Flour Q, board and turn the paste out on it.

5. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste to a thin sheet.

6. Divide the half pound of butter into three portions.

7. Take one portion of the butter and spread it all over the paste with a knife.

8. Sprinkle a little flour over the butter, and fold the paste into three.

9. Flour the rolling-pin and roll out the paste, and spread another portion of the butter over it.

10. Fold the paste as before, roll it out, and add the re- mainder of the butter.

196 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

11. Then fold the paste again, and roll it out to the size and thickness required either for a fruit-pie or an open tart.

N. B. — This crust should be baked in a quick oven (the heat should rise to 240°).

N. B. — The top of a fruit-pie should be brushed over with water, and then sprinkled with pounded white sugar.

N. B. — For an open tart, take a tin (the size required) and grease it with clarified dripping or butter. Roll out the paste to a thin sheet about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and rather larger than the size of the tin. Place the paste in the greased tin, pressing it into the shape of the tin with your thumb. Place a dummy, or a piece of crust of bread, in the centre of the paste, to prevent the paste from rising while baking. Put the tin in the oven to bake for twenty minutes. The jam should be put into the tart after it is baked.

CHAPTER XIV. PUDDIMGS.

LESSON FIRST. CABINET PUDDING.

Ingredients. — One dozen cherries or raisins, and two or three pieces of angelica. One dozen finger-biscuits and half a dozen ratafias. One ounce of loaf-sugar and fifteen drops of essence of vanilla. Four eggs. One pint of milk.

Time required^ ahcmt one hxmr.

To make a Cabinet Pudding :

1. Take a pint-and-a-half mould and huUer it inside with your fingers.

2. Take a dozen raisins or dried cherries, and two or three pieces of angelica^ and ornament the bottom of the mould with them.

3. Take one dozen stale sponge finger-hiscuits * and break them in pieces.

4. Partly fill the mould with pieces of cake and half a dozen ratafias.^

6. TakeybwT* yolks and two whites of eggs and put them in a basin.

^ To be had at the baker's.

' For sale at all large grocery-houses.

198 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Add to the eggs one ounce of white sugar, and whip them together lightly.

7. Stir in, by degrees, one pint of milk.

8. Flavor it by adding fifteen drops of essence of va- nilla.

9. Pour this mixture over the cakes in the mould.

10. Place a piece of luttered ;paper over the top of the mould.

11. Take a saucepan half full of boiling water, and stand it on the side of the fire.

12. Stand the mould in the saucepan, to steam for from three-quarters of an hour to an hour.

N. B. — The water should only reach half-way up the mould, or it would boil over and spoil the pudding.

13. For serving, turn the pudding carefully out of the mould. on to a hot dish.

N. B. — For a cold " Cabinet Pudding," see " Puddings," Lesson Twen- ty-seventh.

LESSON SECOND.

LEMON PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Three lemons. Six ounces of sugar. Six eggs. One gill of cream. One gill of milk. Three ounces of cake-crumbs. One inch of cinnamon-stick.

Time required^ about one hour.

To make a Lemon Pudding :

1. Take three lemons, wipe them clean in a cloth, and grate the rind of them on six lumps of sugar,

2. Take an inch of the stick of cinnamon and put it in a mortar.

3. Pound the cinnamon well in the mortar with the sugar.

PUDDINGS. 199

4. Put this into a basin.

6. Take three ounces of cake-crumbs and add to the above in the basin, and mix all well together.

6. Take the three lemons, cut them in halves, and squeeze the juice of them into the basin through a strainer.

7. Add the yolks of six eggs, and beat them in with the above. (Two of the whites of eggs put on a plate, the others put aside.)

8. Stir in well and smoothly one gill of cream and one gill of milk with a wooden spoon.

9. Whip the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth with a knife, and add them at the last moment to the above mixture, stirring it lightly.

10. Take a pie-dish and line the edge of it with puff- paste {see " Pastry," Lesson First).

11. Pour the mixture into the pie-dish.

12. Put the pie-dish in the oven (the heat of it should rise to 220°), to bake till the mixture is set and of a light- brown color. It is then ready for serving.

LESSON THIRD.

APPLE CHARLOTTE.

Ingredients.— Two pounds of apples. Half a pound of loaf-sugar. The

rind of one lemon. Bread and clarified butter. Time required^ about two hours and a Tialf.

To make an Aj^le Charlotte :

1. Take tuoo pounds of good cookvng-ajpples and peel them thinly with a sharp knife.

2. Take a knife and cut them in slices, and take out the core.

3. Put these sliced apples into a stewpan, with suffi- cient sugar to sweeten them, and one gill of water.

200 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and peel it very thin.

6. Take the rind of the lemon and tie it together with a piece of twine, and put it in the stewpan with the apples.

6. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir well with a wooden spoon until it boils, and the apples are reduced to about half the quantity. It will take from one hour to one hour and a half.

7. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table, and take out the lemon-peel.

8. Take a plain round tin mould (about one pint and a half).

9. Cut a slice of the crumb of bread, one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and round to the size of the mould.

10. Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan to melt and clarify.

11. Cut the round of bread into quarters, dip them in the clarified butter, and place them at the bottom of the mould.

12. ]^ow cut slices of the crumb of bread one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and the depth of the mould in length.

13. Cut these slices into strips an inch wide.

14. Dip these strips into the clarified butter, and place them round inside the mould, allowing them to lie half over each other.

15. I^ow pour the apples into the middle of the mould.

16. Cover the apples with a round of bread dipped in the clarified butter.

17. Put the mould into a good oven (the heat of the oven should be about 220°), to bake ior three-quarters of an hour.

N. B. — The bread should be quite brown and crisp.

18. For serving, turn it carefully out of the mould on to a hot dish.

PUDDINGS. 201

LESSON FOURTH.

PANCAKES.

Ingredients. — Three ounces of flour. Two eggs. Half a pint of milk. Half a salt-spoonful of salt. Three ounces of lard. The juice of one- quarter of a lemon. Two ounces of moist sugar.

Time required^ about twenty minutes.

To make Pancakes (tliis quantity will make about eight) :

1. Take three ounces of flour and put it in a basin.

2. Add a salt-spoonful of salt, and mix it well into the flour.

3. Break two eggs into the flour, and add a dessert- spoonful of milk, and mix all well together with a wooden spoon.

4. Stir in gradually half a pint of milk, making the mixture very smooth.

N. B.— If possible, it is better to let this mixture stand before frying it into pancakes.

5. Put a frying-pan on the fire and put into it a piece of lard the size of a chestnut, and let it get quite hot, but it must not bum.

6. Then pour into the frying-pan two large table- spoonfuls of the batter, and let it run thinly all over the pan.

7. When the pancake has become a light-brown on one side, shake the pan, and toss the pancake over, to brown the other side the same.

8. Stand a plate on the hot plate, or in the front of the fire, to heat.

202 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

9. When the pancake is fried, turn it on to this heated plate.

10. Squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice, and sprinkle a little moist sugar over it.

11. IN^ow roll it up and place it on the edge of the plate, so as to leave room for the remainder of the pancakes.

N. B. — ^Fry all the pancakes in this manner, adding each time a piece of lard the size of a chestnut.

12. For serving, arrange the pancakes on a hot dish, placing one on the top of the other.

LESSON FIFTH. EICE PUDDING.

Ingredients. — One and a half ounce of rice. Butter. One tablespoonful

of moist sugar. One pint of milk.

Thne required, about two hours.

To make a plain JRice Pudding :

1. Take a pint dish and hutter it well inside.

2. Take one ounce a/nd a half of vice and wash it well in two or three waters,

3. Put the rice into a buttered dish and sprinkle over it a tablespoonful of moist sugar.

4. Fill up the dish with new milk.

N. B. — Nutmeg may be grated, or pounded cinnamon be sifted, over the top of the pudding before it is put in the oven.

6. Put the dish into a moderate oven (the heat should be about. 220°) to bake for two hours.

6. "Watch it occasionally, and as the rice soaks up the milk, more milk should be added (carefully lifting up the skin and pouring the milk in at the side), so as to keep the dish always full.

PUDDINGS. 203

LESSON SIXTH.

CUSTAED PUDDING.

Ingredients. — ^Four eggs. One pint of milk. Grated nutmeg. One table- spoonful of powdered sugar. Butter and flour for paste.

l^me required, about thirty-five minutes.

To make a Custard Pudding :

1. Take a pint-and-a-half dish, butter it well inside, and line the edge with paste. {See " Pastry," Lesson Sec- ond.)

2. Break four eggs and put the yolks into a basin. (Put two whites of eggs on a plate, the others put aside.)

3. Stir one pint of milk in with the eggs.

4. Add a tdblesjpoonful of castor sugar,

5. Whip the whites of the two eggs with a knife to a stiff froth and add it to the basin, mixing it all lightly.

6. Pour this custard into the buttered dish lined with paste.

7. Grate half a teaspoonf ul of nutmeg over the top.

8. Put the dish into a moderate oven (the heat should rise to 220°) to bake for half an hour. It is then ready for serving.

LESSON SEVENTH.

PLUM PUDDING.

Ingredients. — One-half pound of beef-suet. Half a pound of currants. Half a pound of sultanas, or raisins. One-quarter of a pound of mixed candied peel, viz., citron, lemon, and orange. One-quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs. One-quarter of a pound of flour. Half a pound of moist sugar. One lemon. Four eggs. One gill of milk. One wineglassful of brandy. Two ounces of almonds. One-quarter of a teaspoonful of salt. Half a nutmeg.

204 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

Ingredients (for wine or brandy sauce). — Three eggs. One gill of cream or milk. One wineglassful of brandy or sherry. One dessertspoonful of sugar.

Time required^ about Jive Iiours and a half.

To make a Plum Pudding :

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

2. Take half a pound of leef-sv^t, put it on a board, cut away all the slcin^ and chop up the suet as finely as possible with a sharp knife.

3. Take half a pound of cv/rrants, wash them clean in water, and rub them dry in a cloth.

4. Take up the currants in handfuls, and drop them, a few at a time, on to a plate, so as to find out if there are any stones with them.

5. Take half a pound of sultana raisins and pick them over.

N. B. — If large raisins are used, they should be stoned.

6. Place a wire sieve over a piece of paper.

7. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the sieve. (There should be a quarter of a pound of bread- crumbs.)

8. Take a quarter of a pound of mixed peel — citron, lemon, and orange — and cut it up into small pieces.

9. Put a quarter of a pound of flour into a kitchen- basin, and add to it the chopped suet and half a teaspoon- ful of salt.

10. Kub the suet well into the flour with your hands.

N. B. — Be careful not to leave any lumps.

11. iN'ow add the bread-crumbs, the currants and raisins, half a pound of moist sugar, and the pieces of candied peel, and mix all well together.

PUDDINGS. 205

12. Take a lemon^ wipe it clean in a clotli, and grate the Tind of it into the basin.

13. Grate half a nutmeg into the basin, and add two ounces of almonds (previously blanched and chopped up finely).

14. Break four eggs into a basin, and add to them one gill of milk and a wineglassful of brandy.

15. Stir this into the ingredients in the basin, mixing them all together.

16. Take a strong pudding-cloth, sprinkle about a tea- spoonful of flour over it, and lay it in a basin.

17. Turn the mixture from the basin into the centre of the floured cloth.

18. Tie up the pudding tightly in the cloth with a piece of string.

N. B. — If preferred, the pudding might be put into a buttered mould, and a cloth tied over the top.

19. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the pudding, and let it boil ior f^e hours.

20. For serving, take the pudding out of the cloth and turn it on to a hot dish.

N. B. — Brandy or wine sauce {see below) can be served with the pud- ding, if liked, either poured over it or served separately in a sauce- boat.

FOR BEANDY OB WINE SAUCE.

1. Put three yolks of eggs into a small stewpan.

2. Add a dessertspoonful of pulverized sugar, one gill of cream or milk, and a wineglassful of hrandy or sherry, and whisk all well together with a wliisk.

3. Take a saucepan, fill it half full of hot water, and put it on the fire.

206 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Stand the stewpan in the saucepan of hot water and whisk the sauce well for about six or eight minutes.

N. B. — Be careful that the sauce does not boil, or it will curdle.

5. After that time take the stewpan out of the saucepan.

6. Pour the sauce over the plum pudding {see above), or into a sauce-boat.

LESSON EIGHTH.

VENNOISE PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Five ounces of crumb of bread. Two ounces of candied peel. Three ounces of powdered sugar. One ounce of lump sugar. One lemon. Four eggs. Half a pint of milk. One gill of cream. Three ounces of sultana raisins. One wineglassf ul of sherry.

Time required^ about two hours.

To make a Vennoise Pudding :

1. Take a piece of stale crunib of tread (about ^^q ounces), put it upon a board, and cut it up in the shape of dice. *v.

2. Put the hread into a basin with three ounces oipoio- dered sugar and three ounces of sultana raisins.

3. Take a lemon, wipe it clean with a cloth, and grate the rind of it into the basin.

4. Chop up two ounces of candied peel and put it into the basin.

5. Pour in a wineglassful of sherry.

6. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

7. Put one ounce of lump sugar into a stewpan and put it on the fire to brown.

8. When it has become a dark-brown color, add to it half a pint of milk, and stir it until the milk is sufficiently colored.

N. B. — ^Be careful that the sugar is quite dissolved, and no lumps left.

PUDDINGS. 207

9. Then stand the stewpan on a piece of paper on the table.

10. Put the yolks of four eggs into a basin (the whites should be put aside, as they are not required for present use).

11. Pour the colored milk into the eggs, stirring well all the time.

12. Stir the milk and eggs into the ingredients in the basin.

13. Also add one gill of cream.

14. Take a pint-and-a-half mould and butter it inside.

15. Pour the pudding into the mould.

16. Butter a piece of kitchen-paper and lay it over the top of the mould.

17. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, place in the mould to steam (the water should only reach half-way up the mould, or it will boil over and get into the pudding).

18. Let the pudding steam for one hour and a half.

19. For serving, take the buttered paper off from the top of the mould, and turn the pudding out carefully on to a hot dish.

N. B. — Get^man sauce {see " Puddings," Lesson Tenth) can be served with the pudding, if liked, either poured round it or served sepa- rately in a sauce-boat.

LESSON NINTH. AMBEK PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Six apples. Three ounces of moist sugar. One lemon. Two ounces of butter. Three eggs. Puff-paste.

Time required^ about one hxmr and one-quarter.

To make an Amber Pudding :

1. Take six large a^les, peel them, cut out the core, and cut them up into slices.

208 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Put the apples into a stewpan, with three ounces of moist sugar and two ounces of butter.

3. Take a lemon^ wipe it clean with a cloth, and peel it as thin as possible with a sharp knife.

4. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice through a strainer into the stewpan.

6. Also add the lemon-peel.

6. Put the stewpan on the fire and let it stew till the apples are quite tender (it will take about three-quarters of an hour).

7. Place a hair sieve over a large basin.

8. When the apples are sufficiently stewed, pour them on to the sieve and rub them through into the basin with a wooden spoon.

9. Stir the yolks of three eggs into the basin.

10. Take a pie-dish (about one pint\ and line the edge with jpuff-paste {see " Pastry," Lesson First).

N. B, — If you have no puff-paste, short paste {see " Pastry," Lesson Second) will do.

11. Pour the mixture into the pie-dish, and put it in the oven ^the heat should be 240°) for twenty minutes.

12. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth.

13. When the pudding is a light-brown, take it out, spread the whipped whites of the eggs over the top, and sift about a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar over it.

14. Put the dish back in the oven till the icing is a light- brown ; the pudding is then ready for serving.

PUDDINGS. 209

LESSON TENTH.

BEOWN-BREAD PUDDING.

Ingredients. — ^A loaf of brown bread. One lemon. Half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. One gill of milk. One gill of cream. Four eggs. Three ounces of powdered sugar.

Ingredients (of German sauce). — Two eggs. One wineglassful of sherry. One dessertspoonful of powdered sugar.

Time required, about one hour and a half.

To make a Brown-Bread Pudding :

1. Take a stale hrown loaf and cut off all tne crust.

2. Put a wire sieve over a plate and rub the crumb of hread througli it.

3. Put one gill of milk into a stewpan, and put it on the fire to boil.

4. Put five ounces of the bread-crumb into a basin, with three ounces of powdered sugar.

6. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and grate the rind over the bread-crumbs.

6. Add half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla.

7. Put a stewpan full of warm water on the fire to boil.

8. When the milk boils, pour it over the crumbs.

9. Put one gill of cream into a basin, and whip it to a stiff froth with a whisk.

10. Add the cream to the other ingredients, and also stir in, one at a time, the yolks of four eggs (the whites of two of the eggs put on a plate, the others put aside).

11. Whip the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth with a knife, and then stir them lightly into the basin, mixing all the ingredients together.

12. Take a^mif mould and butter it well inside.

210 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

13. Pour the mixture into the mould, butter a piece of kitchen-paper, and place it over the top.

14. When the water in the stewpan is quite boiling, stand the mould in it to steam the pudding (the water should only reach half- way up the mould, or it will boil over and spoil the pudding).

15. Let it steam for 07ie hour and a quarter,

16. For serving, take off the buttered paper, and turn the pudding on to a hot dish.

GERMAN SAUCE,

1. Put the yolks of two eggs into a stewpan, with a wineglassful of sherry and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar.

2. Put the stewpan on the fire and mill it with a whisk till it comes to a thick froth.

N. B. — ^Be careful that the sauce does not boil, or it will curdle,

3. Pour the sauce round the pudding.

LESSON ELEYENTH. CARROT PTDDINC.

Ingredients. — Three or four carrots. Three ounces of bread-crumbs, Twa ounces of butter. Half a gill of cream. Two eggs. Half a gill of sherry. One ounce of powdered sugar. One tablespoonf ul of orange- flower water. Puff-paste.

Time required^ about iJiree-quarters of an hoier.

To make a Carrot Pudding :

1. Take three or four ca/rrots (according to their size), wash them, and scrape them clean with a knife.

2. Take a grater and grate all the red part of the carrots into a basin. There should be about a quarter of a pound.

PUDDINGS. 211

3. Stand a wire sieve over a plate.

4. Take some crumb of bread and rub it through the sieve. There should be about three ounces of bread- crumbs.

5. Put the bread-crumbs into the basin with the car- rot ; also add one ounce of powdered sugar.

6. Put two ounces of hutter into a stewpan, and put it on the fire to melt.

7. When the butter is melted, take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

8. Then stir into it half a gill of sherry ^ half a gill of cream^ and a tdblespoonful of oram^e-flour water.

9. Add the yolks of two eggs (put the whites on a plate).

10. Whip the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth with a knife, and then stir them lightly into the stewpan, mixing all the ingredients together.

11. Then pour the contents of the stewpan into the basin with the carrot and bread-crumbs, and mix them well together.

12. Take a pie-dish (about one pint) and line the edge of it with puff-paste {see " Pastry," Lesson First).

13. Pour the pudding into the pie-dish, and put it into the oven (the heat should be 240°) to bake for half an hour / it is then ready for serving.

lESSON TWELFTH.

ALEXANDRA PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Ten eggs. Two ounces of powdered sugar. One gill of

milk. Half a pint of good cream. A teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. Time required, about one hour and twaity minutes.

To make an Alexandra Pudding :

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

212 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Put the yolks of ten eggs into a basin. (The whites of five of the eggs should be put in another basin ; put the others aside.)

3. Stir into the yolks of the eggs two ounces of pow- dered sugar.

4. Add one gill of milk and half a pint of good cream. 6. Whip the whites of the five eggs slightly with a

whisk or knife.

6. Take a plain tin mould (about one pint) and butter it inside ; cover the bottom with three rounds of buttered paper.

7. Add the whipped whites of the eggs and a teaspoon- ful of essence of vanilla to the mixture in the basin, and stir all lightly together.

8. Pour the mixture through a strainer into the mould, and tie over it a piece of stiff paper with a string.

9. "When the water in the saucepan boils, stand in the mould. (The water should reach only half-way up the mould, or it will boil over and spoil the pudding.)

10. Let it simmer gently until the pudding is quite firm. (It will take about one hour and a quarter^

N. B. — It must on no account boil fast.

11. After that time, take the pudding out of the sauce- pan and stand it in ice.

12. For serving, take off the buttered paper and turn the pudding carefully out on to a dish, and ornament it with red currant jelly according to taste.

PUDDINGS. 213

LESSON THIRTEENTH. BLANC-MANGE.

Ingredients* — ^Four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch. One quart of milk. Three ounces of loaf-sugar. One inch of the stick of cinnamon, or lemon-peel.

Time required to make, about a quarter of an hour, and about three-quarters of an hour to get cold.

To make Blana-Mcmge :

1. Put one quart of milk into a saucepan, with three ounces of loaf-sugar and one inch of stich of cinnamon^ or the peel of a quarter of a lemon^ for flavoring.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

3. Put four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch into a basin, and mix it smoothly with a tablespoonful of cold milk.

4. When the milk in the saucepan is quite boiling, stir in the corn-starch quickly, and let it boil for t/wo min- utes., stirring continually.

N. B. — Be careful not to let it get lumpy.

6. Take a quart basin, or a mould, and rinse it out in cold water.

6. E'ow take the piece of cinnamon or lemon-peel oufc of the corn-starch, and pour the corn-starch into the basin, and put aside to cool.

7. When it is quite cold, turn it out of the basin on to a dish, and it is ready for serving.

214 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON POURTEENTH. BOILED BATTER PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of flour. Salt. Two eggs. One pint of milk. Time required^ about two hours and ff teen minutes.

To make a Boiled Batter Pudding :

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

2. Put half a jpound of flour into a basin, and mix half a salt-spoonful of salt with it.

3. Break two eggs into the flour, and beat them well together.

4. Now add, by degrees, one pint of milk, stirring smoothly all the time, until the batter is well mixed.

6. Let the batter stand for one hour.

6. Take a pudding-basin and grease it inside with hutter.

7. Stir the batter, and then pour it into the basin.

8. Dip a pudding-cloth in boiling water, wring it out, and flour it well.

9. Place the cloth over the batter, and tie it on se- curely with a piece of string, just below the rim of the basin. Pin or tie the four corners of the cloth over the top.

10. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the pudding, and let it boil for one hour.

11. For serving, take the basin out of the saucepan, take off the cloth, and turn the pudding carefully out on a hot dish.

PUDDINGS. 215

LESSON FIFTEENTH.

COKN-STAKCH PUDDING.

In^edients. — Two dessertspoonfuls of corn-starch. Half a pint of milk. Six lumps of sugar. One egg.

Time required^ abotU an hour.

To make a Corn-Stareh Pudding (in a cup, for in- fants or invalids) :

1. Put a saucepan half full of warm water on the fire to boil.

2. Put two dessertspoonfuls of ccyrn-starch into a sauce- pan.

3. Pour in, by degrees, half a pint of milky mixing it very smoothly.

N. B. — Be careful that it does not get lumpy.

4. Now add to it six lumps of sugar ^ put the saucepan on the fire, and stir smoothly until it boils ; it will take about ten minutes.

6. Then move the saucepan to the side of the fire.

6. Break one egg into the saucepan, and beat it up until it is all well mixed.

7. Take a cup (just large enough to hold the pudding) and grease it inside with a piece of butter.

8. Pour the mixture out of the saucepan into the cup.

9. Take a small cloth, wring it out in boiling water, flour it well, and tie it over the top of the cup with a piece of string. .

N. B. — ^Tie the four corners of the cloth over the top of the cup.

10. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the cup, and let it boil for twenty-five minutes.

216 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

11. For serving, take the cloth off the cup, and the pudding may be turned out or not, according to taste.

LESSON SIXTEENTH. BATTEE PUDDING.

Ingredients. — One egg. One tablespoonful of flour. One teaeupful of

milk. Salt. Time required^ about thirty-five minutes to make, and thirty minutes to stand.

To make Batter Pudding (in a cup, for infants or invalids) :

1. Put a saucepan half full of warm water on the lire to boil.

2. Put a tablespoonful of flour into a basin, with difew grains of salt.

3. Break one egg into the basin, and mix it well into the fljour.

4. Now add, by degrees, a teaeupful of milk^ stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon.

6. Let the batter stand for half an hour.

6. After that time, take a cup (just large enough to hold the hatter\ and grease it well inside with a piece of hutter.

7. Stir the batter, and then pour it into the cup.

8. Take a small cloth, wring it out in boiling water, flour it well, and tie it over the top of the cup with a piece of string.

N. B. — Tie the four comers of the cloth together over the top of the cup.

9. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the cup, and let it boil for half an hour.

10. For serving, take the cloth off the cup, and the pudding may be turned out or not, according to taste.

PUDDINGS. 217

LESSON SEVENTEENTH. OORN-STAECH PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch. One quart of milk.

Three tablespoonfuls of pounded sugar. Two eggs. One inch of the

stick of cinnamon, or a bay-leaf. Grated nutmeg. Time required^ about half an hour.

To make a Corn-Starch Pudding :

1. Put four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch into a basin, and mix it quite smootli with a tahlespoonful of cold milk.

2. Put tbe remainder of the quart of milk into a saucepan, with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and one inch of cinnamon or a bay-leaf.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

4. When the milk boils, pour it on the mixture, stir- ring it smoothly all the time.

5. Break two eggs into the corn-sta/rch^ and beat it lightly.

6. Grease a quart pie-dish with butter.

7. Pour the mixture into the pie-dish, and grate half a teasjpoonful of nutmeg over the top.

8. Put the dish into the oven (the heat should be 220°) to bake half an hour.

9. It will then be ready for serving.

lESSON EIGHTEENTH.

KICE PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of rice. One quart of milk. Two eggs. Two

ounces of moist sugar. Two ounces of suet. Grated nutmeg. Time required^ from forty minutes to an hour.

To make a I^ice Pudding:

1. "Wash half a pound of rice in two or three waters.

218 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

and then put it into a saucepan of cold water^ and put it on the fire till it boils and swells.

2. Break two eggs into a basin.

3. Add to them two ounces of moist sugar and one quart of milk, and stir them together.

4. Put two ounces of suet on a board, cut away all the skin, and shred it as fine as possible.

5. Take a quart dish and grease it inside with clarified dripping or butter.

6. Drain off the rice on a colander as dry as possible, and lay it in the greased dish.

7. Pour the mixture of milk and eggs over the Tice^ and sprinkle the shredded suet over the top.

8. Take a grater and grate half a teasjpoonful of nut- meg over the top.

9. Put the dish into an oven (the heat should be 220°) to bake for irom. forty minutes to an hour,

10. After that time, it is ready for serving.

LESSON NLNETEENTH.

curate's pudding.

Ingredients. — One pound of potatoes. Three eggs. One pint of milk. Sugar.

Time required^ about one hour.

To make a Curates (or ^eet Potato) Pudding :

1. Wash one pound of potatoes and boil them (see " Yegetables," Lesson First).

N. B. — ^Any remains of cold boiled potatoes may be used instead of fresh ones.

2. Eub these boiled potatoes through a colander into a basin with a wooden spoon.

PUDDINGS. 219

3. Break three eggs into another basin, and stir into them one pint of milk.

4. Stir the milk and eggs smoothly into the potatoes, and add sugar to taste.

5. Grease a quart pie-dish, and pour the mixture into it.

6. Put it in the oven (the heat should be 220°) and bake half an hour ; it will then be ready for serving.

LESSON TWENTIETH. BREAD PUDDING.

Ingredients. — One pound of scraps of bread. One quart of milk. Two eggs. Two tablespoonfuls of moist sugar. Four ounces of raisins or currants.

TirM requiredy three-quarters of an lumr.

To make a Bread Pudding :

1. Put one pound of scraps of hread into a basin with plenty of cold water^ to soak.

N. B. — Any scraps of bread, either crumb or crust, however stale, so long as they are not mouldy or burnt, can be used for this pudding.

2. Put one quart of milk into a saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

3. Put into the milk a piece of butter the size of a nut, to prevent it from burning.

4. Take the bread out of the basin and squeeze out all the water.

5. Empty the water out of the basin and put back the bread.

6. When the milk boils, pour it over the bread, and let the bread soak until it is soft.

7. Break two eggs into a small basin, add to them two tablespoonfuls of moist suga/r^ and beat them lightly to- gether.

LESSONS IN COOKERY.

8. Take four ounces of large raisins and stone them ; or, if currants are preferred, wash them, dry them in a cloth, and pick them over, to see that there are no stones with them.

9. E^ow beat the bread up with a fork as smooth as possible.

10. Put in the raisins or currants and the eggs and sugar, and mix them all well together.

11. Take a pie-dish, or tin, holding two pints and a half, grease it well inside, and pour in the mixture.

12. Put it in the oven (the heat should be 220°) to bake for half an hour ; it will then be ready for serving.

LESSON TWENTY-FIRST. TREACLE PUDDING.

Ingredients. — One pound of flour. Quarter of a pound of suet. One tea- spoonful of baking-powder. Salt. One teaspoonful of ground ginger. Quarter of a pound of treacle. Quarter of a pint of milk. One egg.

T^me required, two and a half hours.

To make a Treacle Pudding :

1. Put a large saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

2. Take a quarter of a pound of suet, put it on a board, cut away the shin, and chop up the suet as fine as possible.

3. Put one pound of flour into a basin, with a little salt and one teaspoonful of baking-powder.

4. Add the chopped suet and one teaspoonful of ground ginger, and mix all well together with a spoon.

6. Put a quarter of a pound of treacle into a basin, with a quarter of a pint of milk and one Qggy and mix them together.

N. B. — If liked, rather more treacle can be added.

PUDDINGS. 221

6. Stir this into the mixture in the basin, and add more milk, if required to make the pudding moist.

N. B. — ^When the pudding is mixed, it should be rather stiff.

7. Take a quart hasin, grease it well inside, and pour the mixture into it.

N. B. — Be careful that the basin is full ; for, if not quite full, the water will get into it and spoil the pudding.

8. Sprinkle some flour over the top of the pudding, put a cloth over it and tie it tightly down with a piece of string, just below the rim of the basin, and tie or pin the corners of the cloth together.

9. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the pudding, and let it boil for two hours.

10. For serving, take the pudding out of the saucepan, take off the cloth, place a hot dish over the pudding, and txirn it carefully out of the basin.

LESSON TWENTY-SECOND. PLUM PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Five ounces of bread-crumbs. Seven ounces of flour. One- quarter of a pound of suet. Quarter of a pound of raisins. Quarter of a pound of currants. Two ounces of moist sugar. Two ounces of can- died peel. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Two eggs. One gill of milk.

Time required^ two and a half hours.

To make a Plum Pudding :

1. Put a large saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

2. Stand a grater on a piece of paper, and grate some hread-crumhs. There should h^five ounces.

3. Take a quarter of a pound of suet and put it on a board.

222 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Take a knife, cut away all the shirty and chop up the suei as line as possible.

6. Sprinkle flour over the suet, to prevent it sticking to the board or knife.

6. Take a quarter of a pound of currants, wash them well in cold water, and rub them dry in a cloth.

7. Take up the currants in handfuls and drop them a few at a time on to a plate, so as to find out if there are any stones mixed with them.

8. Take a quarter of a pound of large raisins and stone them.

9. Take two ounces of mixed candied peel — i. e., cit- ron, lemon, and orange — and cut them up into small pieces.

N. B. — If disliked, the candied peel may be omitted.

10. Put seven ounces of flour into a basin, and add to it the chopped suet, quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of baking-powder.

11. Rub the suet well into the flour with your hand.

N. B. — Be careful not to leave any lumps,

12. I^ow add the hread-crumhs, the currants and rai- sins^ two ounces of moist sugar ^ the pieces of candied jpeely and mix all well with a wooden spoon.

N. B. — If preferred, treacle may be used instead of sugar.

13. Break two eggs into a basin, add to them one gill of milh^ and beat them up.

14. Now stir the milk and eggs into the pudding ^ and mix all well together.

16. Take a cloth, wring it out of hot water, flour it, and lay it over a quart basin.

N. B. — Be careful that the cloth is strong, and that there are no holes in it.

PUDDINGS. 223

16. Turn the mixture from the basin into the centre of

the floured cloth.

17. Hold up the four comers of the cloth, and tie up the pudding tightly with a piece of striug.

18. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the pudding, and let it boil for two hours.

N. B. — The lid should be on the saucepan.

19. For serving, take the pudding out of the cloth and turn it on to a hot dish.

LESSON TWENTY-THIRD.

TAPIOCA AND APPLES.

« Ingredients. — Two tablespoonfuls of tapioca. Six apples. Four cloves, and the peel of half a lemon. Two tablespoonfuls of sugar.

Time required {after the tapioca has soaked twelve hours\ aboiU three-quarters of an hxnir.

To make a Stew of Tapioca and Apples :

1. Put two tablespoonfuls of tapioca into a basin with one pint of water ^ and let it soak twelve hours,

N. B. — This should be done over night.

2. Peel, quarter, and core six apples.

3. Put in four cloves for flavoring.

4. "Wipe a lemon with a cloth, and peel half of it very- thin with a sharp knife.

N. B. — Be careful not to take any of the white, as it is very bitter.

5. Put the soaked tapioca into a large saucepan, with the lemon-peel and two tablespoonfuls of pounded white sugar.

6. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir it well until it boils.

N. B. — ^Be careful not to let any stick to the bottom. II

224 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. Let it boil ten minutes, until the tapioca has be- come clear.

8. After that, put the apples into the saucepan, arrang- ing them at the bottom so that they are covered with the tapioca.

9. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the apples stew gently for from fifteen to thirty minutes, according to their size.

10. You must not let them boil, or they will break.

11. When they are stewed quite tender, take them out of the saucepan and put them on a dish.

12. Pour the tapioca over the apples.

N. B. — If liked, the tapioca sauce can be colored by stirring in about half a teaspoonful of cochineal.

lESSON TWENTY-FOUETH.

INVALID PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Three tablespoonfuls of chopped suet. Three tablespoon- fuls of bread-crumbs. Three tablespoonfuls of flour. Three tablespoon- fuls of moist sugar. Three tablespoonfuls of milk. Two eggs.

Time required, about one hour and three-quarters.

To make an Invalid Pudding :

1. Take about a quarter of a jpound of mutton-suet, put it upon a board, and chop it up as fine as possible.

2. When it is chopped, there should be about three tablespoonfuls.

N. B. — Mutton-suet is much lighter of digestion than beef-suet.

3. Put a saucepan half full of warm water on the fire to boil.

4. Take a piece of hread and a grater, and grate some

PUDDINGS. 225

hread-crurribs on to a piece of paper. There should be about three tablesjpoonfuls of hread-crumhs.

5. Put the bread-crumbs and the chopped suet into a basin, with three tablespoonfuls of flour and three table- spoonfuls of moist sugar.

6. Mix all these well together.

7. Now break in two eggs, and add three tallespoonfuls of miTk, and stir all well together with a spoon.

8. Take a half-pint pudding-basin and grease it well inside.

9. Pour the mixture into the basin.

10. Take a cloth, dip it in hot water, and flour it.

11. Put this cloth over the top of the basin, and tie it on with a piece of string, just under the rim of the basin.

12. Tie the four corners of the cloth together loosely over the top of the basin.

13. Put this basin into the saucepan of boiling water ; but you must be very careful that the water only reaches half-way up the basin, or it will boil over and get into the pudding.

14. Let the pudding steam for one hour and a half

N. B. — Keep a kettle of water boiling, to add to the water in the saucepan as it boils away.

15. After that time, take the basin out of the saucepan, take off the cloth, and carefully turn the pudding out on to a warm dish.

226 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON TWENTY-FIFTH.

SEMOLINA PUDDING.

Ingredients. — ^Half a pint of milk. One tablespoonful of crashed semo- lina. One egg. One dessertspoonful of moist sugar. Butter and nutmeg.

Time required^ about twenty-Jive minutes.

To make a Semolina Puddmg :

1. Put half a pint of milk and one tablespoonful of semolina into a saucepan.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir occasionally until it boils and swells ; then set it by the side of the fire.

3. Break one egg into a basin and add to it one des- sertspoonful of moist sugar, and beat them ligbtly together.

4. Take a three-quarters-of-a-pint pie-dish and grease it inside with a piece of butter.

5. When the semolina is sufficiently cooled, stir in lightly the sweetened Qgg,

6. Pour this mixture into the pie-dish.

7. Take a grater and a nutmeg and grate a quarter of a teaspoonful over the m^ixture.

8. Put the dish into the oven (the heat should be 220°) to bake for a quarter of an hour.

N. B. — ^Puddings can be made in the same way with sago, tapioca, or

lESSON TWENTY-SIXTH.

BATTER AND FRUIT.

Ingredients. — Quarter of a pound of flour. Salt. Half a pint of milk. Two eggs. Quarter of a pound of fruit. Half an ounce of butter. Sugar.

Time required, about forty minutes.

To make a Batter Pudding ^\\h fruit in it : 1. Put a quarter of a pound of flour in a basin.

PUDDINGS. 227

2. Add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt.

3. Stir in gradually half a pint of milk.

4. When it has become sufficiently liquid, you should beat it with a spoon, instead of stirring it, as that will make it lighter.

5. Break an egg into a cup, and then add it to the batter, beating it up lightly all the time, until it is thor- oughly mixed.

6. Then break a second egg into the cup, and add it to the batter, mixing it thoroughly as before.

N. B. — ^Eggs should always be broken separately into a cup, to see if they are good, before cooking.

N. B. — ^The more the batter is beaten the lighter it becomes.

7. Take a pint-and-a-half pie-dish and grease it well inside with butter.

8. Pour the batter into the pie-dish.

9. Take a quarter of a pound of damsons (or any other fruit) and wipe them with a cloth, to be sure that they are quite clean.

10. Sprinkle the fruit into the batter, and put two or three bits of butter on the top, to prevent Its being dry.

11. Put the pie-dish into the oven (the heat should be 220°) to bake for half an hour,

12. After that time, take the pie-dish out of the oven and sprinkle some sugar over the top.

N. B. — Sugar should, of course, be eaten with the batter pudding.

N. B. — ^If sugar were added to the batter before it was baked, it would make it heavy.

228 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON TWENTY-SEVENTH.

COLD CABINET PU±)DING.

Ingredients. — Six sponge finger-biscuits. Two ounces of ratafias. Half a pint of milk. Half an ounce of best gelatine. The yolks of four eggs. Two ounces of dried cherries. Two or three pieces of angelica. Half a gill of cream. One teaspoonful of essence of vanilla. One tablespoon- f ul of powdered sugar.

Time required, about half an hour.

To make a Cold Cabinet Pudding :

1. Take a pint mould and ornament the bottom of it (according to taste) with the dried cherries and pieces of angelica.

2. Split the sponge-lisGuits in half and line the inside of the tin with them and the ratafias in the mould.

N. B. — ^Place the biscuits only round the sides of the tin (not over the bottom), arranging them alternately back and front next the tin.

3. Break four eggs, put the yolks in a basin (the whites put aside, as they are not required for present use), and beat them well with a wooden spoon.

4. Stir half a pint of milk into the eggs, and pour the mixture into a jug.

5. Take a saucepan, fill it half full of hot water, and put it on the fire to boil ; when the water boils, remove the saucepan to the side of the fire.

6. Stand the jug in the saucepan, and stir the custard very smoothly until it thickens to the consistence of cream ; but it must not boil, or it will curdle.

7. Put half an ounce of gelatine in a small stewpan or gallipot, with a tablespoonful of water, and stand it near the fire to melt.

PUDDINGS. 229

8. "When the custard is sufficiently thick, take the jug out of the saucepan and stand it aside to cool.

N. B. — ^Place a piece of paper over the mouth of the jug, to prevent the dust getting in.

9. Stir the gelatine until it is quite melted.

10. Pour the melted gelatine through a strainer into the custard.

11. Also add half a gill of cream, a teaspoonful of es- sence of vanilla, and a tahlespoonful of powdered suga/r,

12. Pour it all on the cakes in the mould.

13. Stand the mould in a cold place to set ; in summer- time it should be placed on ice.

14. When the pudding is quite cold and set, turn it out carefully on to a dish, and it is ready for serving.

lESSON TWENTY-EIGHTH.

SUET PUDDING.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of suet. One pound of flour. One teaspoon- ful of baking-powder.

Time required, about one liour and three-quarters.

To make a Suet Pudding :

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

2. Take half a pound of suet, put it on a board, cut away all the skin, and chop the suet up as fine as possible with a sharp knife.

3. Put one pound of flour into a basin with one tea- spoonful of lalcing-powder.

4. Add the chopped suet, and rub it well into \h.e flour with your hands.

N. B. — Be careful not to have any lumps.

230 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

5. Now add enougli cold water to mix it into a stiff ^aste.

K 6. Take a strong pudding-cloth^ wring it out in boiling water, and sprinkle flour over it.

7. Turn the paste out on to the cloth, hold up the ends of the cloth, and tie it tightly round the pudding with a piece of striug, leaving room for the pudding to swell.

8. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the pudding, and let it boil gently for one hour cmd a half.

N. B.— Keep a kettle of boiling water^ and fill up the saucepan as the water in it boils away.

9. For serving, take the pudding out of the saucepan, take ofE the cloth, and turn it on to a hot dish.

N. B.— This pudding can be eaten with meat, or with sugar ^ jamy or treacle.

LESSON TWENTY-NINTH.

TOEKSHIKE PUDDING.

Ingredients.— Eight ounces of flour. One pint of milk. Half a teaspoon- f ul of baking-powder. Salt. Two eggs.

Time required, one Tiour.

To make a Yorhshire Puddmg :

1. Put eight ounces of flour into a basin, and mix into it half a teaspoonful of laUng^owder and half a salt- sjpoonful of salt.

2. Break two eggs into the flour, and stir it well.

3. Now add, by degrees, a pmt of milk^ beating all the time with a wooden spoon, to make the batter as smooth and light as possible.

PUDDINGS. 231

4. Place a pint pudding-tin under the meat that is roasting in front of the fire, to catch some dripping to grease the tin.

5. Then pour the batter into the tin, and let it cook under the meat half an hour^ or bake it twenty minutes in the oven.

6. Turn the tin so that the pudding will not get burned.

N. B. — It is better to make batter some time before it is wanted, so that it may rise.

N. B. — A plainer and more substantial Yorkshire pudding can be made, in the same way as above, with six ounces of flour, one egg, one pint of milk, and one tablespoonful of chopped suet, sprinkled over the batter when it is poured into the tin.

7. When the pudding is done, turn it out of the tin on to a hot dish, and it is ready for serving with roast meat.

CHAPTER XV. DUMPLIJ^GS.

LESSON FIRST. HARD DUMPLINGS. Ingredients. — Half a pound of flour. Salt. Tirm required^ ahovt twenty-five minutes.

- To make Hard Dumplings :

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

2. Vvii half a povmd of flour into a basin, and mix in half a salt-spoonful of salt.

3. Add cold water enougb to make it into a firm dough.

4. Flour your hands and divide the dough into pieces about the size of an Qgg^ and roll each piece into a smooth ball, without a crack in it.

5. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, drop in the dumplings, and let them boil twenty minutes.

N. B. — ^They are best boiled with meat — either salt beef or pork.

6. Then take them out of the saucepan, put them on a hot dish, and they are ready for serving.

DUMPLINGS. 233

LESSON SECOND. NORFOLK DUMPLINGS. Ingredients. — One pound of patent flour. Water. I^me requiredy about half an hour.

To make Norfolk Dumplings :

1. Put a saucepan of warm water on the fire to boil.

2. Put one pound of patent flour into a basin.

3. Add to it enough cold water to make it into a smooth dough (it must not be too stiff).

4. Form this dough into round balls about the size of a large Qgg,

N. B. — This quantity will make about ten dumplings.

5. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in the dumplings, and let them boil for twenty min- utes.

6. After that time, take them out of the saucepan, and they are then ready for serving.

CHAPTER XVI, JELLIES.

LESSON PIRST.

WINE JELLY.

Ingredients. — Two calves' feet. Two lemons. Two eggs. Two ounces of loaf-sugar. One inch of the stick of cinnamon. Four cloves. One wineglass of sherry. Half a wineglass of brandy.

Time required {the jelly-stock should be made the day before required for use) to finish making ity about an how.

To make about one quart of Wme JeWy from cah)es^ feet:

1. Take two calves' feet and put them on a board.

2. Chop each foot in four pieces with a chopper.

3. Put these pieces in a basin of clean cold water and wash them well.

4. Take them out of the basin and put them in a stew- pan with sufficient cold water to cover them.

N. B. — ^This is to blandi them.

5. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil.

6. When the water boils, take the stewpan off and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

7. Take the pieces of the feet out of the stewpan with

JELLIES. 235

a fork, and put them in a basin of cold water and wash them well.

8. Empty the water out of the stewpan.

9. Wash the stewpan well.

10. Take the pieces of the feet out of the basin, and put them in the stewpan wiih five pints of cold water,

N. B. — This stock will be reduced to about one pint and a half when it is sufficiently boiled.

11. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil.

12. Watch it, and skim it often with a skimming-spoon.

13. Let it boil very gently for fi/ve hours.

14. After that time strain off the liquor through a hair sieve into a basin.

16. Put this basin in a cool place for some hours, until the stock is perfectly cold and is in a jelly.

16. JS'ow take this basin of jelly-stock and skim off all the fat carefully with a spoon.

17. Take a clean cloth and put it in hot water.

18. Take this damp cloth and dab it over the jelly-stock, BO as to remove every particle of grease.

19. Take a clean dry cloth and rub lightly over the jelly-stock, to dry it.

20. Take two lemons^ wipe them clean in a cloth, and peel them very thinly with a sharp knife.

N. B. — Be careful, in peeling the lemons, not to cut any of the white skin, as it would make the jelly bitter.

21. Put the lemon-peel into a stewpan.

22. Squeeze the juice of the two lemons, through a strainer, into the stewpan.

23. Take two eggs, and put the yolks in one basin and the whites in another.

24. Whip the whites of the eggs slightly, but not very stiff.

236 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

25. Put the whipped white of the egg into the stewpan, and the crushed egg-shell. "

26. Put in also two ounces of loaf sugar, one inch of the stick of cinnamon, and four cloves.

27. Whip all these together with a whisk.

28. ISTow add the jelly-stock.

29. Put the stewpan on the fire, and whisk well till it boils.

30. IsTow put the lid on the stewpan and stand it by the side of the fire for twenty minutes, to form a crust.

31. Place the jelly-bag stand in front of the fire and hang the jelly-bag in it (you must put a basin on the stand underneath the jelly-bag).

N. B. — Be sure that the jelly-hag is quite clean.

32. Take a jug of 'boiling water and pour it through the jelly-bag.

33. Do this fowp or five times, always using hoiVmg water until the bag is quite warm.

34. Look at the jelly in the stewpan, and when the crust is formed it is ready to be strained.

N. B. — ^Be sure that there is no water left in the bag before passing the jelly through ; and the basin in the stand should be quite dry.

N. B. — The pouring of the jelly into the bag forces the water (the few drops that remain) out first into the basin ; these first few drops should be thrown away, and a clean basin put in its place imme- diately.

35. IS^ow take the stewpan off the fire and pour the jelly carefully into the bag, to pass into the basin.

36. Repeat this two or three times, until the jelly runs through quite clear.

N. B. — Be careful, in pouring the jelly through the bag, that you do not disturb the sediment at the bottom of the bag, which will serve as a filter.

JELLIES. 237

37. Add a wineglassful of sherry and half a wineglassful of hrahdy^ or any other wine or liqueur, according to taste.

38. Take a quart mould, scald it with hoiling water, and then rinse it in cold water.

39. Place the mould in ice.

N. B. — ^Be careful that the mould stands quite straight and firm.

40. Pour in enough of the jelly just to cover the bot- tom of the mould.

41. When this jelly has set slightly, garnish the mould with grapes, strawberries, etc., according to taste.

42. Then pour the remainder of the jelly into the mould, and let it stand in the ice until it is firmly set.

43. When the jelly is required for use, dip the mould into a basin of hot water.

44. Shake the mould to loosen the jelly, place a dish over the top of the mould, and turn the jelly carefully out, so as not to break it.

LESSON SECOND.

ASPIC JELLY.

Ingredients.— Two calves' feet. Two pounds of knuckle of veal. Salt. Thirty pepper-corns. Two blades of mace. One clove of garlic. Two shallots. One sprig of thyme. Two or three sprigs of parsley. One onion, stuck with four cloves. One leek. Half a head of celery. Two carrots. One turnip. One sprig of tarragon. One sprig of chervil. Two bay-leaves. The rind of one lemon. The juice of three lemons. The whites of two eggs. One pound of lean veal. One gill of chablis or sherry. Two tablespoonfuls of French vinegar.

Time required {the jelly-stock should he made the day before) to finish making it, if not decorated, about an hour.

To make one quart of savory Aspic Jelly :

1. Take two cal/oei feet and put them on a board.

238 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Chop the feet in eight pieces with a chopper.

3. Put these pieces in a basin of clean cold wafer and wash them well.

4. Take them out of the basin, and put them in a stew- pan with enough cold water to cover them.

6. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil.

N. B. — This is to blanch them.

6. When the water boils, take the stewpan off and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

7. Take the pieces of feet out of the stewpan with a fork, put them in a basin of cold water, and wash them well.

8. Empty the water out of the stewpan.

9. Wash the stewpan well.

10. Take the pieces of feet out of the basin and put them back into the stewpan.

11. Take two pounds of knuckle of veal and put it on a board.

12. Take a sharp knife and cut the meat from the bone.

13. Put the meat and the bone into the stewpan with the feet.

14. Pour in Ji/ve pints of water, put the stewpan on the fire, and just bring it to the boil.

15. Watch it, and skim it with a spoon.

16. Now add half a teaspoonful of salt, thirty pepper- corns, two blades of mace, one clove of garlic, two shal- lots, one sprig of thyme, and two or three sprigs of parsley.

17. Take an onion, peel it, and stick four cloves in it.

18. Take one leek and half a head of celery, and wash them in cold water.

JELLIES. 239

19. "Wash two carrots and scrape tliem clean.

20. Wash a turnip and peel it.

21. Put all these vegetables into the stewpan.

22. Add one sprig of tarragon, one sprig of chervil, and two bay-leaves.

23. Let all these boil gently iorfive Twurs,

24. Then strain off the liquor, through a hair sieve, into a basin.

25. Put this basin in a cool place for some hours, until the stock is perfectly cold and in a jelly.

26. Now take the basin of jelly and skim off all the fat carefully with a spoon.

27. Take a clean cloth and put it in hot water.

28. Take this damp cloth and dab it over the jelly-stock, BO as to remove every particle of grease.

29. Take a clean dry cloth and rub lightly over the jelly-stock, to dry it.

30. Take one lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and peel it very thinly with a sharp knife.

N. B. — ^Be careful, in peeling the lemon, not to cut any of the pith, as it would make the jelly bitter.

31. Put the lemon-peel into a stewpan.

32. Squeeze the juice of three lemons, through a strainer, into the stewpan.

33. Whip the whites of two eggs slightly, but not very stiff.

34. Put the whipped whites of the eggs into the stew- pan, also the egg-shells.

35. Take onejpowad of lean veal, put it on a board, and chop it up fine.

36. Put this chopped veal in the stewpan.

37. Pour in one gill of chablis or sherry, and two table- sjpoonfuls of French vinegar.

240 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

38. Add salt and pepper to taste, and whip all together with a whisk.

39. Put in the jelly-stock.

40. Put the stewpan on the fire, and whisk well until it boils.

41. JN'ow take a large spoon and skim it carefully, if necessary.

42. Put the stewpan by the side of the fire, and let it stand for half an hour to form a crust.

43. Take a clean soup-cloth, or a jelly-bag, and ^n it on the stand.

44. Take a large basin and place it below the cloth.

45. Take the stewpan off the fire and pour the contents into the cloth, and let it all pass into the basin.

N. B. — The chopped veal acts as a filter to the jelly.

46. After the jelly has all passed through, remove the basin, and put a clean one in its place.

47. Take a soup-ladle and pour a ladlefnl of the jelly at a time over the meat in the cloth, and let it pass for the second time very slowly into the basin.

N. B. — Be careful not to disturb the deposit of chopped veal which settles at the bottom of the cloth.

48. If a border-mould of aspic jelly is required, scald the mould with boiling water, and then rinse it in cold water.

N. B, — If the aspic jelly is only required for garnishing cold meats, stand the basin of jelly on ice, or in a cool place, until it is firmly set ; then cut the jelly into fancy shapes, or chop it up finely with a knife.

49. Place the mould in ice.

N. B. — Be careful that it stands straight and firm.

60. Pour in enough of ihe jelly just to cover the bottom of the mould.

JELLIES. 241

51. When this jelly has slightly set, garnish the mould with fish or vegetables ^ etc., according to taste or to what it is to be served with.

52. Then pour the remainder of the jelly into the mould, and let it stand in the ice until it is firmly set.

53. When the jelly is required for use, dip the mould into a basin of hot water for about a second.

54. Shake the mould to loosen the jelly^ and place a dish over the top of the mould and turn ihe jelly carefully out, so as not to break it.

N. B. — The centre of the mould can be filled with a salad of mixed vegetables {see No. 13 in " Entries," Lesson Fifth).

LESSON THIRD.

ICELAND MOSS.

Ingredients. — One ounce of Iceland moss. One quart of milk or water. Two tablespoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar.

Time required {after the Iceland moss has soaked all nighi\ for " Water Jelly^'* about one hour ; for ^^Milk Jelly ^'' ahovi two hours.

To make Jelly with Iceland Moss :

1. Wash one ounce of Iceland moss well in cold water.

2. Then put it in a basin of cold water and let it soak all night.

3. After that time take it out of the water and squeeze it dry in a cloth.

4. Then put it in a saucepan, with one quart of cold water.

5. Put the saucepan on the fire and let it boil for on^ hour ; you must stir it frequently.

6. Then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and sweeten it with loaf sugar.

242 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. It can be taken with either wine or milk, according to taste.

For Milk Jelly :

1. Boil the moss in the same quantity of milk, instead of water (after it has been soaked), as above, only for two hours instead of one hour,

2. Then strain it into a basin, and sweeten with loaf sugar according to taste.

3. When it is cold, turn the jelly out of the basin on to a dish, and it is ready for use.

lESSON POIJRTH.

MILK JELLY FROM COW-HEEL, AND THE MEAT SERVED. WITH ONIOJSr-SAUCE.

Ingredients (for Milk Jelly). — One cow-heel. One quart of milk. Two inches of the stick of cinnamon. Sugar.

To make a Milk Jelly from Cow-Heel :

1. Buy a dressed cow-heel from a tripe-shop.

2. Put the cow-heel on a board and cut it up into small pieces.

3. Put these pieces into an earthen jar or a saucepan, with one quart of milk and two inches of the stick of cin- namon.

4. Put the lid on the top of the jar ; put a piece of paper over the lid, and tie it tightly down.

5. Put the jar into a very slow oven, to stew for at least three hours.

6. If there is no oven to the stove, stand the jar by the side of the fire to stew.

N. B. — ^It reduces less if stewed in the oven.

JELLIES. 243

7. When the stew is finislied, take the jar out of the oven, take off the lid, strain the milk into a basin, and sweeten it according to taste.

8. Put the basin aside till the jelly is set. It may be eaten hot or cold, according to taste.

FOE ONION-SAUCE.

Ingredients. — Three or four onions. Half a pint of milk. Half an ounce of flour. Half an ounce of butter.

For serving the Cow-Heel with Onion-Sauce :

1. Take three or four onions, peel them, and cut them in quarters.

2. Put them into a saucepan with half a pint of milk.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil till the onions are quite tender ; it will take about one hour.

4. After that time strain off the milk into a basin, put the onions on a board, and chop them up small.

5. Put half an ounce of hutter into the saucepan, and put it on the fire to melt.

6. When the butter is melted, add half an ounce of flour, and mix them smoothly together with a wooden spoon.

7. Pour the milk in gradually, stirring it till it boils and thickens.

8. Then add the onions, season with jpepper and salt according to taste, and move the saucepan to the side of the fire.

9. Put the pieces of cow-heel into the sauce, and let them warm through.

10. For serving, put the pieces of cow-heel on a hot dish, and pour over them the onion-sauce.

244 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

N. B. — The meat from the cow-heel might be served as a curry. The curry should be made in the same way as described in " Cooked Meat," Lesson Fourth.

N. B. — The bones of the cow-heel should be put into the stock-pot.

LESSON FIFTH.

JELLY AND STEW FROM OX-FOOT.

Ingredients (for Jelly). — One ox-foot. Quarter of a pound of lump sugar. One egg. Two lemons. Spices.

Ingredients (for Stew). — One carrot. One turnip. One onion. Half an ounce of dripping. Half an ounce of butter. Flour and seasoning.

To make a Jelly from Ox-Foot :

1. Take a scalded ox-foot^ put it in cold water, and wasli it well.

2. Take it out of water, dry it with a cloth, and put it on a board.

3. Cut the foot with a sharp knife across the first joint and down between the hoofs, and chop the long piece in half.

4. Put these pieces into a saucepan, with enough cold water to cover them.

5. Put the saucepan on the fire and just bring it to the boil.

6. Then take the pieces out and wash them thoroughly in a basin of cold water.

7. Empty the water out of the saucepan, and wash it out well.

8. Put the pieces of foot back in the saucepan, cover- ing them well with cold water (about two quarts will be enough for a moderate-sized foot).

9. Put the saucepan on the fire, and when it boils

JELLIES. 245

move it to the side of the fire and let it stew gently for six hours.

10. Watch it, and skim it carefully with a spoon from time to time.

11. After that time strain off the stock into a basin, and put it aside to cool.

N. B. — The foot should be put aside until required for use.

12. When the stock is quite cold, take an iron spoon, dip it in hot water, and carefully skim off the fat.

13. Take a clean cloth, dip it in hot water, and wipe over the top of the jelly, so as to remove every particle of fat.

N. B.— For " Porter Jelly," see below.

14. Take two lemons, wipe them with a cloth to be sure that they are quite clean, and peel them very thinly with a sharp knife.

N. B. — ^Be careful, in peeling the lemons, not to cut any of the white skin, as it would make the jelly bitter.

15. Put iYiQjpeel of one lemon into the stewpan or sauce- pan.

16. Cut the lemons in halves, and squeeze the juice of the two into the saucepan.

N. B. — Be careful to remove all the pips.

17. Take one egg, put the yolk in one basin and the white in another.

18. Whip up the white of the egg slightly.

19. Put the whipped white of the egg and the egg-shell into the saucepan.

20. Put in a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, half an

2-16 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

inch of the stick of cinnamon, four cloves, and about a quarter of an inch of saffron.

21. JSTow add the jellj-stock.

22. Put the saucepan on the fire, and stir the contents well with a whisk or iron spoon until it boils.

23. Kow put the lid on the saucepan and stand it by the side of the fire for twenty minutes or half an hour.

24. If there is no jellj-bag, you should take a clean cloth, folded over cornerwise, and sew it up one side, mak- ing it the shape of a jelly-bag.

25. Place two chairs back to back in front of the fire.

26. Hang the sewn-up cloth between the two chairs, by pinning it open to the top bar of each chair.

27. Place a basin underneath the bag.

28. Look at the jelly in the saucepan ; and when there is a good crust formed over, it is ready to be strained.

29. Then take the saucepan off the fire, and pour the jelly into the bag, to pass into the basin.

30. Eepeat this two or three times, until the jelly runs through quite clear.

N. B. — ^A glass of wine may be added now, if desired.

31. Take a quart hasin, or a mould, scald it with hot water, and rinse it out with cold water.

32. Pour the jelly into the basin and stand it aside to cool and set, until it is required for use.

N. B. — If Porter Jelly is required, put the jelly-stock into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, half a teaspoonful of mixed spice, and half a pint of porter ; put it on the fire and let it boil for an: hour and a half, stirring occasionally ; then strain it in the same way as for lemon jelly.

To make a Stew of the meat of the foot : 1. Take one carrot, wash it, scrape it clean, and cut it in slices with a sharp knife.

JELLIES. 24:7

2. Take a small turnip and an onion, peel them, and cut them in slices.

3. Put these vegetables into a saucepan with half an ounce of clarified dripping.

4. Put the saucepan on the fire and let the vegetables fry a light-brown. Be careful they do not burn.

5. Cut the meat off the bones of the foot, cut it up into nice pieces, and season them with jpepjoer and salt accord- ing to taste.

6. Put these pieces of meat into the saucepan with the vegetables.

7. Then pour in one pint of cold water, just bring it to the boil, and remove the saucepan to the side of the fire to stew gently one hour, or till the vegetables are tender.

8. Then strain off the liquor, and put the vegetables and meat on a dish.

9. Put the dish near the fire, to keep warm.

10. Put half an ounce of butter into the saucepan and put it on the fire to melt.

11. When the butter is melted, add half an ounce of flour, and mix them well together with a wooden spoon.

12. Stir in the liquor gradually, and stir it till it boils and thickens.

13. Then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire.

N.B. — The sauce can be colored with burut sugar or a browned onion.

14. l^ow place in the meat and the vegetables, and let them just warm through.

15. Serve this stew on a hot dish with boiled potatoes, or rice {see " Vegetables," Lessons First and Thirteenth).

N.B. — ^The bones of the foot should be put in the stock-pot. 12

248 LESSONS IN COOKEBY.

LESSON SIXTH.

APPLE J ELL Y. «.

Ingredients* — One pound of apples. One lemon. Three ounces of lump sugar. One ounce of gelatine. Half a teaspoonf ul of cochineal.

Time required, about one hour.

To make Ajpjple Jelly :

1. Peel one pound of apples with a sharp knife, cut them in half, take out the core, and then cut the apples in small pieces.

2. Put them in a stewpan, with three ounces of lump sugar and half a pint of water.

3. Wipe a lemon with a clean cloth.

4. Take a grater and grate the rind of a lemon over the apples.

N. B. — Be very careful to grate only the yellow peel of the lemon, as the white rind is very bitter.

5. Cut the lemon in half, and squeeze the juice through a strainer on the apples.

6. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil, and cook the apples quite tender.

7. Stir the apples occasionally, to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pan and burning.

8. Put one ounce of gelatine in a gallipot or small saucepan, with half a gill of cold water, and stand it by the side of the fire to dissolve.

9. When the apples are cooked to a pulp, place a hair sieve over a basin and rub the apples through with a wooden spoon.

JELLIES. 249

10. Now stir the melted gelatine into the apple.

N. B. — Be very careful that the gelatine is quite smoothly dissolved ; there should be no lumps.

N. B. — If liked, part of the apple might be colored by stirring in half a teaspoonful of cochineal.

11. Take a pint-and-a-half mould, rinse it out in boiling water, and then in cold water.

12. Ornament the bottom of the mould with jnstachio nuts cut in small pieces, or preserved cherries, according to taste.

13. E'ow pour the apple in the mould, and if part of the apple is colored, you should fill the mould with alternate layers of colored and plain apple.

14. Stand the mould aside in a cool place, to set the apple.

15. For serving, dip the mould in boiling water for a second, and then turn out the apple jelly carefully on to a dish.

N. B. — Half a pint of double cream, whipped to a stiff froth, should be served with the apple jelly, either put round the edge of the dish or in the centre of the mould.

CHAPTER XVII CREAMS,

LESSON FIRST.

VANILLA CKEAM.

Ingredients. — Three eggs. Half a pint of milk. Half an ounce of best gelatine. Half a pint of double cream. A tablespoonful of powdered sugar. Half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla.

Time required for making, about three-quarters of an hour.

To make a Vanilla Cream :

1. Take the yolks of three eggs and one white, put them into a basin, and beat them well with a wooden spoon.

2. ^i\v in half a pint of milk.

3. Pour this mixture into a jug.

4. Take a saucepan half full of hot water and put it on the fire to boil.

6. When the water is quite boiling, move the saucepan to the side of the fire.

6. Stand the jug of custard in the saucepan of boiling water, and stir the mixture very smoothly, until it thickens to the consistence of cream.

N. B. — Stir it very carefully, and watch it continually, that it does not curdle.

CREAMS. 251

7. "WTien tlie custard is sufficiently thick, take the jug out of the water and stand it aside to cool.

8. Put Tialf an ounce of the test gelatine in a small stewpan, with half a gill of cold water ^ to soak and swell.

9. Then put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the gela- tine until it is quite melted.

10. Pour this melted gelatine through a strainer and stir it into the custard.

11. Pour half a pint of double cream into a basin, and whip it to a stiff froth with a whisk.

12. Add to it a tablespoonful of powdered sugar and half a teaspoonful of essence of vanilla.

N. B. — it any other flavoring be preferred, it should now be added, instead of the essence of vanilla.

13. When the custard is sufficiently cooled, stir it lightly into the whipped cream.

14. Take a pint-and-a-half mould, scald it with hot water, and then rinse it out with cold water.

16. Pour the cream into the mould, and stand it in ice until required for use.

16. For serving, dip the mould into boiling water for a second, shake it to loosen the cream, and then turn it out carefully on to a dish.

N. B. — ^This is an economical receipt for making cream ; but if made entirely of cream, instead of cream and milk, it would, of course, be richer.

252 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

lESSON SECOND.

STEAWBERRY CREAM.

Ingredients* — One pint of fresh strawberries. Two and a half ounces of powdered sugar. Half an ounce of the best gelatine. The juice of one lemon. Half a pint of good cream.

Time required, about half an hour.

To make a Strawberry Cream :

1. ll2^Q 2L ;pint of fresh strawberries smd put them on a board.

2. Pick them over, and put aside any that are not quite good.

3. Stalk them, and put them in a basin.

4. Sprinkle over them half an ounce of white jpow- dered sugar ^ which will help to draw out the juice.

5. Take a silk sieve and place it over a basin.

N. B. — ^A hair sieve could be used instead.

6. Pass the fruit through the sieve with a wooden spoon.

7. Put half an ounce of the lest gelatine into a small stewpan, with half a gill of cold water, to soak and to swell.

8. Then put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the gela- tine until it is quite melted.

9. Add two ounces of powdered sugar, and squeeze the juice of one lemon, through a strainer, into the stewpan.

10. Pour this mixture through a strainer, and stir it into the strawberries in the basin, and mix them well to- gether.

11. Pour half a pint of good cream into a basin, and whip it to a stiff froth with a whisk.

CREAMS. 253

12. ITow add this cream to the strawberries in the ba- sin, and stir them lightly together.

13. Take a pint mould, scald it with hot water, and then rinse it out with cold water.

14. Pour the strawberry cream into the mould, and stand it in ice until required for use.

15. For serving, dip the mould into boiling water for a second, shake it to loosen the cream, and then turn it out carefully on to a dish.

LESSON THIRD.

CHARLOTTE KUS8E.

Ingredients. — Twelve sponge finger-biscuits. Half an ounce of the best gelatine. One gill of milk. Half a pint of double cream. One dessert- spoonful of sifted sugar. Thirty drops of essence of vanilla.

Time required for making^ about Imlf an hxmr.

To make a Charlotte JRusse :

1. Take a jpmt tin and line it inside with sponge fin- ger-hisGuits.

N. B.— Be careful to fit the biscuits close to each other, so that they form a wall of themselves.

2. Take a knife and cut off the tops of the finger-his- cuits that stand above the tin.

3. Put half an ounce of the lest gelatine in a small stewpan, with one gill of cold milk, to soak and swell.

4. Pour half a pint of double cream into a basin and whip it to a stiff froth with a whisk.

6. Add to it a dessertspoonful of sifted powdered sugar and thirty drops of essence of vanilla.

6. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the gelatine until it is quite melted.

254: LESSONS IN COOKERY.

7. Stir the melted gelatine into the cream, pouring it through a strainer.

8. Pour this cream into the tin.

N. B. — Be careful, in pouring in the cream, not to disarrange the finger-biscuits.

9. Stand this tin in ice until it is required for use.

10. For serving, dip the tin into hot water for a second, shake the tin to loosen the cream, and turn it carefully on to a dish.

N. B. — A more economical Charlotte Russe might be made by using a quarter of a pint of custard to a quarter of a pint of cream (as in " Creams," Lesson First).

CHAPTER XVIII SOUFFLES,

LESSON FIRST. VANILLA SOUFFLE.

Ingredients. — ^Four eggs. One and one-quarter ounce of butter. A des- sertspoonful of sugar. One ounce of flour. Half a teaspoonful of es- sence of vanilla. Salt. One gill of milk.

Ingredients (for Wine-Sauce). — One ounce of sugar. One tablespoonful of jam. Wineglassful of sherry. Half a teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

Ingredients (for Custard-Sauce). — One egg. Sugar, and six drops of va- nilla. One gill of milk.

Time required^ ahout ihree-quaricra of an hour.

To make a /Steamed Vanilla Souffle Pudding :

1. Prepare the tin for the souffle pudding — thus :

2. Take a pint-and-a-half tin and butter it well ipside, using your fingers for the purpose.

3. Fold a piece of paper so as to make a band round the tin, allowing about two inches of paper to stand up above the tin.

4. Butter the part of paper above the tin with a knife. 6. Put the paper round the outside of the tin, and tie

it on with a string.

256 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Take a stewpan and just melt one ounce of hutter in it over the fire.

7. Take tlie stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

8. Add one ounce of flour to the melted luUer, and mix them both well together.

9. Then add rather more than a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar.

10. Add one gill of milk.

11. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir smoothly with a wooden spoon until it thickens.

12. Then take the stewpan off the fire again.

13. Add to the mixture the yolks of three eggs, one at a time, and beat all well together.

14. Take the three whites and put them in a basin, with one more white to make four, adding half a salt-spoonful of salt, and then whip the whites quite stiff.

15. Add the whites to the above mixture, and stir it lightly.

16. E'ow add the flavoring — half a teaspoonful of va- nilla essence.

N. B. — If the essence is very strong, or the bottle newly opened, so much is not required.

17. Mix all together, and pour it into the buttered tin.

18. Have ready a saucepan half filled with hot water, and put it on the fire to boil.

19. When the water boils, stand the tin in it, but be careful that the water does not reach the paper round the tin, for it is only the steam which cooks the pudding.

20. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the pudding steam from twenty to thirty minutes.

21. Watch it, not letting the water boil too fast, or the saucepan will get dry and the pudding will burn.

SOUFFLl^S. 257

22. When it is sufficiently steamed, take the mould out of the saucepan of water.

N. B. — To test if the pudding is done, touch the centre of it with your finger ; it should feel firm.

23. Shake the tin and turn the souffle pudding out on a hot dish, and pour the sauce round it, which you must prepare while the souffle is being steamed.

N. B. — If a baked vanilla souffle pudding is required, put the tin in a quick oven (the heat should be 240°) to bake for half an hour, instead of putting it' in the boiling water. No sauce is then wanted.

To make the Sauce for the Steamed Vanilla Soiiffl^ Pudding :

For Wine-Sauce:

1. Take a small saucepan and put in it one ounce of loaf sugar and one gill of cold water.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire and stir the sugar and water with a spoon, until the sugar has quite melted and it has become a smooth syrup, reduced in quantity.

3. Put into it a tablespoonful of apricot jam.

4. Stir it all together over the fire, to melt the jam.

6. Add a wineglassful of sherry and a few drops of lemon-juice, and stir it all again.

6. Take the stewpan off the fire, and pour the sauce round the souffle pudding.

N. B. — Pour the sauce around very carefully, so as not to drop any of it on the side of the pudding.

You can make a Custard-Sauce, if preferred — thus :

1. Break a whole e^g in a basin and whip it well.

2. Add half a teaspoonful of pounded sugar.

3. Add one gill of milk and six drops of yanilla essence.

258 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Pour all tlie mixture into a jug or gallipot.

5. Get a large saucepan of hot water and put it on the fire.

6. Stand the gallipot in the saucepan of hot water.

N. B. — The water must only come half-way up the gallipot.

7. Stir the mixture in the gallipot with a wooden spoon.

8. As soon as the mixture has thickened, take the gallipot out of the saucepan.

9. Pour the custard round the souffle pudding.

LESSON SECOND.

CHEESE SOUFFLE.

Ingredients. — One ounce of butter and one ounce of flour. One teaspoon- ful of mignonette or white pepper. Salt, pepper, and Cayenne pepper. One gill of milk. Three eggs. Three ounces of Parmesan cheese.

Trnie required, about forty minutes^

To make a Cheese Souffle :

1. Take a stewpan and put into it one ounce of hutter.

2. Add one teaspoonful of mignonette pepper.*

3. Put the stewpan on the fire and let the pepper fry in the butter (to extract its flavor) for two or three min- utes.

4. Take the stewpan off the fire, and strain the butter into a basin ; as the pepper is only for flavoring, the grains must not be left in the butter.

6. Wash out the stewpan, to prevent any of the grains remaining.

6. Pour the flavored butter back in the stewpan.

7. Add one ounce of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, haK

* White pepper-coms.

SOUFFLES. 259

a teaspoonful of pepper, and Cayenne pepper according to taste, and stir well together with a wooden spoon.

8. Add one gill of milk.

9. Put the stewpan on the fire, and stir the mixture smooth until it thickens.

10. Take the stewpan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

11. Add one by one the yolks of two eggs, and beat them well together.

12. Take three ounces of Parmesan cheese.

13. Grate the cheese with a grater on to a plate or piece of paper.

14. Add the three ounces of grated cheese to the above mixture in the stewpan, and mix it all well together.

15. Whip the whites of four eggs with a little salt in a basin, until quite stiff.

16. Add the whites to the above mixture, and stir it lightly.

17. Take a plain pint tin mould and prepare it in the same way as for the Vanilla Souffle Pudding {see Lesson First).

18. Pour the mixture into the buttered tin mould.

N. B. — This same mixture, if poured into Ramaquin papers and baked, will make cheese Ramaquins.

19. Put the tin in a hot oven to bake from twenty min- utes to half an hour. Look at it once or twice to see that it does not bum ; but the door of the oven should not be opened too often while the souffle is inside, lest it should check the souffle from rising properly.

N. B. — To serve a baked soufH6, it should be kept in the tin, the buttered paper taken off, and a clean napkin folded round the tin. It can also be baked in a mould, which slips inside a plated- silver dish sold for the purpose. This is the more elegant way of serving a souflfle or fondu.

260 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIRD.

POTATO SOUFFLE.

Ingredients. — Four potatoes. One ounce of butter. Half a gill of milk. Four eggs. Seasoning.

Time required, about an hmr.

To make Potato Souffle :

1. Take four good-sized potatoes^ and wash and scrub them with a brush in a basin of cold water.

2. Take them out of the water and dry them with a cloth.

3. Put them in the oven (the heat should rise to 230°) to bake ; they will take from half an hour to three-quar- ters of an hour^ according to the heat of the oven and the size of the potatoes.

4. Take a steel fork or skewer and stick it into the po- tatoes, to see if they are done. They must be soft inside.

N. B. — This should be carefully done, so as not to spoil the potato- skins.

5. When they are done, take them out and cut them (with a sharp knife) in half, so that each half of the potato will stand — because you will want to use the skins to put the potatoes into them again.

6. Take a small spoon and carefully scoop out all the inside of the potatoes. Take care not to make holes, or spoil the skins in any way.

7. Take a wire sieve and put it over a plate, and take the inside of the potatoes and rub it through with a wooden spoon.

8. Put one ounce of lutter and half a gill of milk in a etewpan, and put it on the fire to boil.

9. Add salt ,2i£A jpejpjper according to taste.

SOUFFLieS. 261

10. Then add three ounces of the sifted potatoes, and stir it smoothly.

11. JSTow take the stewpan off the fire, and stand it on a piece of paper or wooden trivet on the table.

12. Take three eggs and add, one by one, only the yolks, beating all well together with a wooden spoon.

13. Take the three whites and add another white to make four, and put them in a basin ; add a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt to them, and whip them to a stiff froth.

14. Add the whites to the above mixture, and stir the whole lightly.

15. Now stand the eight half-potato skins on a baking- sheet.

16. Pour the mixture carefully into each potato-skin (they should be only half full).

17. Put the sheet into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) for ten minutes^ until they have risen well and be- come a pale-brown color.

18. Fold a table-napkin, and arrange them on it for serving.

. LESSON POFRTH.

OMELET SOUFFLE.

Ingredients. — Two eggs. Half an ounce of butter. Jam. Sugar and salt. Teaspoonful of orange-flower water.

Time required^ about ten minutes.

To make an Omelet Souffle of two eggs :

1. Break two eggs ; put the whites in one basin and the yolks in another.

2. Put one teaspoonful of orange-flower water and one tablespoonf ul of powdered sugar into a stewpan.

262 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

3. Put the stewpan on the fire and let it boil quicklj for three minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Then pour it into a cup to cool, add it to the yolks of egg, and beat them to a cream.

6. Add a quarter of a salt-spoonful of salt to the whites of egg, and whip them to a stiff froth.

6. Add the whites to the mixture in the basin, and mix them together very lightly.

7. Put half an ounce of butter into a frying-pan.

8. Put the pan on the fire and let the butter get quite hot, but not burn.

9. When the butter is quite hot, pour in the mixture.

10. Let it stay on a slow fire for two, but not more than three, minutes.

11. Then take the pan off the fire and put it in a brisk oven (the heat should rise to 240°).

12. Let it stay for about three or four minutes in the oven.

13. Take rather more than a dessertspoonful of jam.

14. Put the jam into a stewpan on the fire and stir it until it has melted.

15. Take the pan out of the oven.

16. Take a knife and pass it round the edge x>f the omelet souffle, to ease it from the pan.

17. Give the pan a shake, to loosen the omelet souffle.

18. Turn the omelet souffle on to a hot dish.

19. Spread the jam on the omelet souffle, and fold it over like a sandwich.

20. Sprinkle a little white powdered sugar over it.

SOUFFLES. 263

LESSON FIFTH. SAVORY OMELET.

Ingredients. — Two eggs. Salt, pepper, and parsley. One ounce of butter. Time required^ about four rnimUes.

To make a Sa/vori/ Omelet of two eggs:

1. Break two eggs in a basin.

2. Add a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, and pepper to taste.

3. Take a sprig of parsley, wash it, dry it, and chop it up finely on a board (there should be about a teaspoonful).

4. Add the chopped parsley to the eggs.

5. Beat the eggs lightly for two seconds with a fork.

N. B. — The omelet could be flavored with chopped herbs or mush- rooms, with bacon or kidney cut in small pieces, or with grated cheese, according to taste.

6. Take one ounce of lutter and put it in an omelet or frying pan.

7. Put the pan on the fire to melt the butter.

N. B. — The fire should be bright and clear.

8. Wait till the butter is quite hot, taking care that it does not bum.

9. Pour the mixture of the e^g into the pan.

10. Stir the mixture quickly with a wooden spoon.

11. Do not let it burn, or stick to the pan. Shake the pan, to prevent the omelet sticking or burning.

12. Spread it over the bottom of the pan and let it cook through.

13. "Watch it very carefully.

14. Take a knife and put it under the omelet, and fold it over.

264 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

15. When the omelet has become a pale-brown, turn it out of the pan on to a hot dish.

LESSON SIXTH.

CHEESE STRAWS.

Ingredients. — Two ounces of butter. Two ounces of flour. Two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. One ounce of Cheddar cheese. One egg. Salt, and Cayenne pepper.

Time required, about twenty minutes.

To make Cheese Straws :

1. Put two ounces of flour on a board, and mix into it half a salt-spoonful of salt and a quarter of a salt-spoonful of Cayenne pepper.

2. Take two ounces of Parmesan cheese and one ounce of Cheddar or some strong cheese^ and grate them on a grater.

3. Eub the cheese and two ounces of butter into the flour.

4. Now mix all the ingredients, together with the yolk of an ^g'g^ into a smooth, stiif paste.

6. Flour the board and the rolling-pin, and roll out the jpaste into a strip one-eighth of an inch in thickness and five inches wide (the length the cheese straws are to be).

6. Now take a sharp knife, dip it in flour, and cut the paste into strips one-eighth of an inch wide, so that they will be ^6 inches long and one-eighth of an inch in thick- ness.

7. Take two round cutters, dip them in flour, and cut little rings of paste.

SOUFFLlfiS. • 265

8. Take a baking-slieet and grease it with butter.

9. Put the cheese straws and the rings on the baking- sheet, and put them into a hot oven (the heat should rise to 240°) for ten minutes.

10. Look at the cheese straws occasionally, and see that they do not burn ; they should be of a pale-brown color when done.

11. For serving, take the cheese straws off the baking- sheet, and put them through the rings of paste, like a bun- dle of sticks.

CHAPTER XIX. PICKLES FOB MEAT AJ^D CABBAGE.

LESSON FIRST. PICKLE FOR MEAT.

Ingredients. — One and one-half pound of salt. Six ounces of brown sugar. One ounce of saltpetre. One gallon of water.

Time required^ about half an hour.

To make Fickle for Meat :

1. Put one pound and a half of salt, six ounces of brown sugar, one ounce of saltpetre, and one gallon of water, into a large saucepan.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to bring it to the boil, and then let it boil for five minutes. Keep it well skimmed.

3. Then strain it into a tub or large basin.

4. When the picJde is quite cold, meat can be put into it.

N. B. — The meat should be kept well covered with the pickle nine days. N. B. — ^This pickle will keep for three weeks in summer and three

months in winter. N. B. — When the pickle is required again after it has once been used,

it should be boiled up again, skimmed, strained, and allowed to

get cold, before the fresh meat is put into it. N. B. — ^If used for pig's head, it should be thrown away, and not used

again.

PICKLES FOR MEAT AND CABBAGE. 267

LESSON SECOND.

PICKLED CABBAGE.

Ingredients. — A red cabbage. A gallon of vinegar. Mace, cloves, all- spice, whole pepper. Salt and ginger.

Time required^ about three days.

To PicTcle a Callage :

1. Take a red cabbage^ cut it in half and cut out the stalk, and wash it well in salt and cold water.

N. B. — ^A white-hea'rt cabbage will do to pickle, but green cabbages cannot be used.

2. Put it on a board and cut it in thin slices.

3. Lay the slices in a large pan, sprinkle a handful of salt over each layer of slices, cover the top well with salt, and leave them for two days.

N. B. — Turn the slices every morning and evening, and sprinkle a handful of salt over the layers each time you turn them.

4. Then drain the slices on a hair sieve for one day.

5. Put a gallon of vinegar, two blades of mace, twenty- four cloves, twenty-four allspice berries, and twenty-four pepper-corns, into a saucepan, with three pieces of ginger an inch long.

6. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil up.

7. Then turn the vinegar and spices out of the sauce- pan into a broad pan, to cool.

N. B. — They must on no account be allowed to cool in the saucepan.

268 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

8. Put the cabbage into a stone jar, and pour the vin- egar and spices over it.

9. The cabbage must be quite covered with vinegar, and as it soaks it up more vinegar must be poured over it.

N. B. — This quantity of vinegar is sufficient for a large cabbage ; a smaller one will take less.

10. Tie the jar over with wash-leather, brown paper, or a bladder.

CHAPTER XX CAKES,

LESSON FIRST.

SULTANA CAKE.

Ingredients* — Half a pound of flour. Quarter of a pound of butter. Quarter of a pound of sugar. Quarter of a pound of sultana raisins. . One ounce of candied peel. Two eggs. One teaspoonful of baking-pow- der. Half a gill of milk. One lemon.

Time required, about one hour and a half.

To make a Sultana CaTce :

1. Put half a pound of flour into a basin.

2. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into the flour with your hands.

3. ]^ow add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a teaspoonful of hahing-powder, and a quarter of a pound of sultana raisins.

4. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and grate the rind of it into the basin.

5. Cut up one ounce of coMdied peel into small pieces, and add it to the other ingredients.

6. Put half a gill of milk into a small basin, and add to it the yolks of two eggs. (Put the whites on a plate.)

7. Stir the milk and the eggs together and then pour it into the other ingredients, and mix all together.

8. Butter a cake-tin.

270 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

9. Whip the whites of the eggs into a stiff froth with a knife, and stir it lightly into the mixture.

10. JS'ow pour it into the tin, and put it into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for one hour cmd a quarter.

11. After that time, turn the cake out of the tin and stand it on its side, or on a sieve, to cool.

N. B. — This will prevent its getting heavy.

LESSON SECOND.

GERMAN POUND-CAKE.

Ingredients. — Ten ounces of flour. Eight ounces of fresh butter. Eight ounces of powdered sugar. Two ounces of candied peel. One lemon. Quarter of a pound of sultana raisins. Four eggs.

Time required^ about two hours and a quarter.

To make a German PoundrCahe :

1. Stand a wire sieve over a plate, and rub through it ten ounces of flour.

2. Put eight ounces of fresh hutter into a basin, and work it to a cream with your hand.

3. Add a tablesjpoonful of the sifted flour ^ a tdblesjpoon- ful of powdered sugar^ and one egg, and mix them well into the hutter.

4. Continue to mix in, by degrees, the flour, sugar, and eggs, until they are all used up.

5. Take a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and grate the rind of it into the basin;

6. Add a quarter of a pound of sultana raisins and two ounces of candied peel (cut up in small pieces).

7. Stir all the ingredients together with a spoon.

CAKES. 271

8. Line a cake-tin with buttered foolscap paper, and put three rounds of buttered paper at the bottom of the tin.

9. Pour the mixture into the tin, and put it into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for two hours.

10. After that time, turn the cake out of the tin and stand it on its side, or on a sieve, to cool.

LESSON THIRD.

PLAIN CAKE.

Ingredients, — One pound of flour. Four ounces of dripping. Baking- powder, allspice, and salt. Quarter of a pound of currants. Half a pint of milk. Quarter of a pound of sugar.

To make a Plain Cake :

1. Take one pound of flour and put it in a pan or large basin.

2. Mix into the fl^ur a teaspoonful of halcing-powder and half a salt-spoonful of salt.

3. Take four ounces of clarified dripping, and rub it well into the flour with your fingers until there are no lumps remaining.

4. Take a quarter of a pound of currojits, put them in a cloth, and rub them clean.

5. Add the currants to the flour; also half a teaspoon- ful of ground allspice and a quarter of a pound of hrown sugar.

6. Mix these ingredients together with a wooden spoon.

7. N^ow pour in half a pint of milk, and mix it all well together. ^^

272 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

8. Take a lialf-a-quartern tin and grease it inside with a piece of dripping.

9. Pour this mixture into the tin.

10. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for one Jiour,

11. After that time, take the tin out of the oven.

12. Turn the cake out of the tin and stand it on its side, to cool.

LESSON POURTH. SEED CAKE.

Ingredients. — Ten ounces of flour. Two ounces of sugar. One teaspoon- ful of baking-powder. One teaspoonful of caraway seeds. Two ounces of clarified dripping. Half a ^11 of milk. One egg. Salt.

Time required^ one hour and a half.

To make a Seed Cake :

1. Take ten ounces of flour and put it in a basin.

2. Mix into tho flour one teasjpoonful of haking-powder and half a salt-spoonful of salt.

3. Take two ounces of clarifl-ed drijyping and rub it well into the flour with your hands, until there are no lumps remaining.

4. Add two ounces of powdered sugar and one teor spoonful of caraway seeds. .

6. Mix these well together with a wooden spoon.

6. Break one egg into a cup, and beat it up with half a gill of milk.

• 7. Pour this into the basin, and mix all quickly to- gether into a stiff paste — stiff enough to allow a spoon to stand up in it.

8. Take a cake-tin and grease it inside with a piece of dripping.

CAKES. 273

9. Pour the mixture into the tin, and put it at once in the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for one hour.

10. To know when the cake is sufficiently baked, run a clean knife into it ; if it comes out perfectly bright and undlmmed by steam, the cake is done.

11. Turn the cake out of the tin and stand it on its side, to cool.

LESSON PIFTH.

PLUM CAKE .

Ingredients. — One pound of flour. Half a pound of fruit (plums or cur- rants). Quarter of a pound of dripping. Quarter of a pound of sugar. One egg. Half a gill of milk. A teaspoonful of baking-powder. Salt. Two ounces of candied peel.

Time required^ aboiU one hour and a quarter.

To make a Plum Cake :

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin, with a tea- spoonful of haking-powder and half a salt-spoonful of salt,

2. Take a quarter of a pound of clarified dripping and rub it well into the fl^our with your hands until there are no lumps remaining.

3. Take half a pound of plums or currants, or a quar- ter of a pound of each, and add them to the flour.

N. B. — If currants are used, they should be well washed and dried in a cloth, and picked over, to see that there are no stones in them. Large plums should be stoned before they are used.

4. Take two ounces of candied peel^ cut it in small pieces, and put it in the basin. Also add a quarter of a pound of sugar,

N. B. — If peel is disliked, it may be omitted.

274 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Break one egg into a basin, and add to it lialf a gill of milk, and beat them np.

6. Stir this into the ingredients in the basin, mixing them all well together.

7. Take a tin and grease it inside with dripping.

8. Pour the mixture into the tin and put it into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for about an hour.

9. After that time, turn the cake out of the tin and stand it on its side, slanting against a plate, till it is cold.

LESSON SIXTH.

CX)E05f-STAECH CAKE.

Ingredients. — Quarter of a pound of com-starch. Quarter of a pound of loaf sugar. Two ounces of butter. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Two eggs.

Time required^ about one hour.

To make a Corn-Starch Cake:

1. Put two ounces of 'butter into a basin and beat it to a cream.

2. Add to the butter a quarter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar, and mix it well.

3. Break in two eggs, and beat all well together.

4. Now stir lightly into the mixture a quarter of a pound of corn-starch and a teaspoonful of baking-powder, and beat it well together for five minutes.

5. Grease a cake-tin inside with butter or dripping.

6. Pour the mixture into the tin and put it immediate- ly into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for half an hour.

CAKES. 275

7. After that time, turn the cake out of th^ tin and slant it against a plate, until it is cold.

N. B. — If preferred, the mixture could be baked in small tins instead of one large one, in which case it would take only fifteen minutes to bake.

LESSON SEVENTH. DOUGH CAKE.

Ingredients.— Half a quartern of dough. Two eggs. Half a pound of sugar. One pound of currants.

Time required, about an hour and a half.

To make a Dough Cake :

1. Put half a quartern of dough (made as for hreadr — see " Bread," Lesson First) into a basin.

2. Take one pound of currants, wash them, dry them in a cloth, and pick them over, to see that there are no stones mixed with them.

3. Add the currants and half a pound of moist sugar to the dough.

N. B. — ^If liked, half a teaspoonful of mixed spice might be added.

4. E'ow break two eggs into the basin, and beat all the ingredients well together.

5. Take a quartern tin and grease it well inside with dripping.

6. Turn the mixture into the greased tin.

7. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) until the cake is sufficiently baked; it will take dihout forty minutes.

N. B.— To test if the cake is done, run a clean knife into it ; and if it comes out clean, the cake is sufficiently baked.

276 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

8. Then turn the cake out of the tin and place it on its side, leaning against a plate, until it is cold.

LESSON EIGHTH. t SHREWSBURY CAKES.

Ingredients. — Quarter of a pound of butter. Quarter of a pound of cas- tor sugar. Six ounces of flour. One teaspoonful of pounded cinnamon and mace. One egg.

Time required, about half an hour.

To make Shrewsbury Cakes :

1. Put a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pound of castor sugar into a basin, and beat them to- gether till the mixture is of the same consistence as cream.

N. B. — K the butter is very hard, it might be beaten over hot water.

2. Add to the mixture one ^^g and about a teaspoon- ful of pounded cinnamon and mace (mixed together), and beat all well together.

3. ;N"ow stir in smoothly, by degrees, six ounces of flour.

N. B. — Be careful not to let it get lumpy.

4. Flour a board and turn the paste out on to it.

5. Flour a rolling-pin and roll out the paste as thin as possible.

6. Dip a cutter, or wineglass, in flour, and cut the paste into biscuits or cakes.

7. Grease a baking-tin with dripping or butter, and put the cakes on it.

8. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for about twenty minutes. They should be a light-brown when baked.

9. The cakes are then ready for use.

CAKES, 277

LESSON NINTH. ROOK CAKES.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of flour. Quarter of a pound of currants. Quarter of a pound of sugar. Two ounces of candied peel. Two tea- spoonfuls of baking-powder. One teaspoonful of grated nutmeg or gin- ger. Quarter of a pound of clarified dripping. One egg. Half a gill of milk.

Time required, half an hour.

To make Hock Cakes :

1. Put half a pound of flour into a basin.

2. Stir two teaspoonfuls of hahing-jpowder into tlie flour.

3. Take a quarter of a pound of clarified dripping and rub it well into the flour with your hands until there are no lumps remaining.

4. Take a quarter of a pound of currants, put them in a cloth, rub them clean, and pick them over to see that there are no stones with them.

6. Add the currants to the flour, also one teaspoonful of ground ginger or grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of crushed loaf sugar.

6. Take two ounces of candied peel, cut it in pieces, and add it to the other ingredients.

7. Mix all these ingredients together with a wooden spoon.

8. Break one Q^g into a cup, and beat it up with about half a gill of milk.

9. Pour this into the basin, and mix all well together into a very stiff paste.

10. Take a tin and grease it with dripping.

11. Divide the paste into small portions with two forks, and lay them in rough heaps on the tin.

278 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

12. Put them into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for sibont J^teen minutes,

13. After that time, take them out of the oven, and the cakes are then ready for use.

LESSON TENTH. GmGEE-BEEAD NUTS.

Ingredients. — One pound of flour. Half a pound of treacle. Four ounces of butter. Half an ounce of ground ginger. Allspice. One teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Salt.

2^ime required, about twenty-five minutes.

To make Ginger-Bread JV^ufs :

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin with about JiaZf a salt-spoonful of salt.

2. Add half an ounce of ground ginger^ one teaspoon- ful of carbonate of soda., and allspice,

3. Put half a pou/nd of treacle and four ounces of hut- ter into a saucepan, and melt them together over the fire.

4. Mix the ingredients together, and then add the melted treacle and the four ounces of butter, and mix all well together into a firm paste.

N. B. — Be very careful that all the ingredients are well mixed, and that there are no lumps left.

6. Plour a board, and turn the paste out on to it.

6. Flour your hands and knead the paste.

7. N^ow divide the paste into about twenty-four pieces.

8. Poll each piece into a ball, like a walnut, and put them two inches apart on a greased tin.

9. Put them into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) ioT fifteen minutes.

10. After that time, turn the ginger-bread nuts off the tin and set them aside to cool.

CHAPTER XXI. BUJ{S, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC,

LESSON riEST. BUNS.

Ingredients. — Half an ounce of German yeast. One and a half pound of flour. Three gills of milk. One ounce of butter. Quarter of a pound of moist sugar. Quarter of a poimd of sultana raisins or currants.

Time required^ aboitt two hours and a hxdf.

To make Buns :

1. Put one gill and a half of milk into a saucepan, and put it on the fire.

2. Put half an ounce of German yeast into a basin.

3. When the milk is just warm, pour it by degrees on to the yeast, mixing them well together with a spoon.

4. Put one pound of flour into a large basin, and stir into it the milk and yeast, mixing it into a dough.

5. Cover the basin with a cloth and stand it on the fender, and let it rise for about one hour.

6. Put one gill and a half of milk into a saucepan with one ounce of butter, and put it on the fire to warm.

7. Put half a pound of flour into a basin, and stir into it the milk and butter.

280 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

8. When the dough is sufficiently risen, turn it into this mixture, and work them well together.

9. Now add a qua/rter of a pound of sultama raisins or currants and a qua/rter of a pound of moist sugar ^ and mix all well together.

N. B. — ^If currants are used, they should be well washed, dried in a cloth, and carefully picked over, to see if there are any stones mixed with them.

10. Cover the basin with a cloth and stand it near the fire, to rise again for one hour.

11. After that time, take a tin and grease it with drip- ping or butter.

N. B. — If there is no tin, the shelf from the oven should be greased and used instead.

12. Flour a paste-board and turn the dough out on it.

13. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut the dough into pieces.

14. Flour your hands, and form the dough into balls.

N. B. — This quantity of dough will make about twenty-seven ordinary- sized buns.

15. Put the buns on the tin.

16. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°), to bake the buns for about Jialf an hour,

17. When they are haK done, take the tin out of the oven, brush the buns over with water, and sprinkle white sugar over them.

18. E'ow put the tin back into the oven.

19. When the buns are sufficiently baked, take them o:f the tin, and slant them against a plate, imtil they are cold.

N. B. — This will prevent their getting heavy.

BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 281

LESSON SECOND.

KICE BUNS.

Ingredients. — Quarter of a pound of ground rice. Quarter of a pound of sugar. Two ounces of butter. Two eggs. Half a teaspoonful of bak- ing-powder.

Time required, half an hour.

To make Bice Buns :

1. Put a quarter of a pound of ground rice into a basin, with half a teaspoonful of haJcing-powder.

2. Add a qua/rter of a pound of pounded loaf sugar and two ounces of hutter^ and 9iix all together with a wooden spoon.

3. Break in two eggs, and beat all lightly together.

N. B. — Be careful to see that the eggs are good before adding them to the mixture.

4. Take some small tins, or patty-pans, and grease them well with a piece of dripping or butter.

6. Fill these tins two-thirds full with the mixture.

N. B. — This quantity will make about eight or ten buns.

N. B. — ^If there are no small tins, the mixture could be put into a cake-tin, which should be previously greased inside.

6. Put the tins into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake iov fifteen minutes.

7. After that time, turn the buns out of the tins and lean them against a plate, until they are cold.

282 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON THIRD.

MILK BISCUITS.

Ingredients. — One gill of milk. One ounce of butter. Half a pound of flour. Teaspoonful of baking-powder.

Time required^ about half an hour.

To make Milk Biscuits :

1. Put one gill of milk into a saucepan ; add to it one ounce of hutter^ and put it on the fire to warm.

2. Put half a pound of flour into a basin, with a tea- spoonful of baking-powder.

3. When the milk is' hot, pour it into the flour, and stir it into a smooth, stiff paste.

4. Flour a board and turn the paste on to it.

5. Flour a rolling-pin, and roll the paste into as thin a sheet as possible.

6. Flour a docker or tumbler, and cut the paste into rounds the size of a teacup.

7. Grease a tin with dripping or butter, and place the biscuits on it.

8. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for twenty minutes.

9. After that, turn the biscuits off the tin and set them aside to cool.

BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 283

LESSON FOURTH. OATMEAL BISCUITS.

Ingredients. — Seven ounces of flour. Three ounces of oatmeal. Three ounces of powdered sugar. Three ounces of lard or butter. Quarter of a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. One egg.

jTemc required^ aboiet half an hour.

To make Oatmeal Biscuits :

1. Put three oimces of lard or huUer into a saucepan, and put it on tlie fire to melt.

2. Put seven ounces of flour into a basin, with three ounces of oatmeal^ three ounces of jpowdered sugar, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of ca/rlonate of soda, and mix all together with a spoon.

3. ]N'ow stir in the melted lard.

4. Put about a tablespoonful of cold water into a tea- cup ; break one e^g into the water, and beat them slightly together.

5. Add this to the mixture in the basin, and mix all well and smoothly together with a spoon.

6. Flour a board and turn the paste out on it.

7. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out the paste as thin as possible.

8. Flour a tumbler and cut the paste into biscuits, according to taste.

9. Grease a baking-tin with dripping or butter, and place the biscuits on it.

10. Put the tin into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for twenl/y minutes.

284 ■ LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON PIFTH.

SCONES.

Ingredients* — One pound of flour. Quarter of a pint of milk. Quarter of a pound of butter. One dessertspoonful of baking-powder.

Time required^ about forty minutes.

To make Scones :

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin, and mix into it a dessertspoonful of baking-powder.

2. Take a quarter of a pound of butter and rub it well into the flour with your hands.

3. IS'ow turn it out on to a floured board.

4. Flour a rolling-pin and roll it out, to make sure that the butter is well mixed with the flour.

5. Mix it into a smooth jpaste with rather less than a quarter of a pint of milk.

N. B. — The paste must not be moist.

6. Flour the rolling-pin and roll out the paste to a thin sheet, about one-third of an inch in thickness.

7. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut the paste into triangular pieces, each side dihoutfour incJies long.

8. Flour a tin, put the scones on it, and bake them directly in the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) for thirty to forty minutes.

9. When the scones are half done, brush them over with milk.

BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 285

LESSON SIXTH.

SHOKT-BKEAD.

Ingredients. — Quarter of a pound of flour. Two ounces of butter. One ounce of castor sugar.

Time required, about half an hour.

To make Short-Bread :

1. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and put it on the fire to melt.

2. Put a quarter of a pound of flour into a basin, with one ounce of castor (pounded lump) sugar and the melted butter.

3. Mix these ingredients well together.

4. Flour a board and turn the paste on to it.

5. Flour your hands, and knead the paste well.

6. Flour a rolling-pin, and roll out the paste to about one-third of an inch in thickness.

7. Flour a knife, and cut the paste into oval shapes.

8. Grease a baking-tin with dripping or butter.

9. Put the short-bread on the tin, and put it in the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake till a pale-brown.

LESSON SEVENTH. MELK-EOLLS. Ingredients.— One pound of self-raising flour. Two ounces of butter. Milk. Time required, about half an hour.

To make Milk-BoUs :

1. Put one pound of self -raising flov/r into a basin, and rub two ounces of hutter into it with your hands.

286 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Add sufficient milk to make it into a lithe, firm dough.

3. Sprinkle flour over a board, and turn the dough out on it.

4. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and cut the dough into twelve pieces.

N. B.— Keep your hands floured, to prevent the dough from sticking to them.

5. Form each piece into a small roll.

6. Flour a baking-tin.

7. Put these rolls on to the tin, and put the tin in the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for twenty minutes.

8. The milk-rolls will then be ready for use.

LESSON EIGHTH.

YOEKSHmE TEA-CAKES.

Ingredients. — Three-quarters of a pound of flour. One and one-half a gill of milk. One ounce of butter. One egg. Half an ounce of German yeast.

Time required^ about one hour and a half.

To TdBke YorksJii/re Tea- Cakes :

1. Put one omjd one-half a gill of milk into a small saucepan, and put it on the fire.

2. Put half an ounce of German yeast into a basin ; and when the m,ilk is just warm, pour it on to the yeast.

3. Put th/ree-qua/rters of a jpo^md of flour into a large basin, and rub into it one ounce of hutter.

4. Beat up one egg in a cup, and then add it to the flmt/r.

BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 287

5. Now pour the yeast and milk through a strainer into the basin, and mix all well together with a wooden spoon.

6. Flonr a board and turn the dough out on it.

7. Flour your hands, and knead the dough for a min- ute or two.

8. Take a knife, dip it in flour, and divide the dough into cakes.

9. Take some cake-tins (as many as are required) and grease them inside with dripping.

10. Put the cakes into the tins.

N. B. — The tins should be only three-quarters full, so as to allow for the cakes to rise.

11. Stand the tins near the fire, and allow the cakes to rise for one hour,

12. After that time, put the tins into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for a quarter of an hour,

13. Then turn the cakes out of the tins and place them on a sieve, or on the cane-seat of a chair, to cool.

N. B. — This will prevent their getting heavy.

LESSON NINTH.

BREAD.

Ingredients. — ^Three and one-half pounds of flour. One ounce of German yeast. Half a salt-spoonful of salt.

Time required^ quarter of an hour for making^ two or three hours for rising ^ and one hour and a half for baking.

To make Bread :

1. Take three and a half pounds of seconds flour, put three pounds of it into a large pan, and make a hole in the centre of the flour.

N. B. — Half a pound is reserved, with which to work up the bread.

288 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Put one ounce of German yeast into a basin.

3. Add about a gill of tepid water, and stir the yeast into a stiff paste.

4. Then fill the basin with lukewarm water, and stir the yeast smoothly, making in all about one pint and three gills.

5. Add to the flour half a teaspoonful of salt, and then by degrees pour in the yeast, mixing the flour lightly into a dough with your hands.

6. Add more lukewarm water, if the dough is too stiff.

N. B. — Be sure to mix up all the flour into dough.

7. Sprinkle about a tablespoonful of dry flour over the dough, and cover the pan with a cloth.

8. Place the pan near the fire for at least two hours, to let the dough rise.

9. When it has risen sufficiently, take up the pan and work in more flour, if necessary, to make the dough stifi enough to turn out of the pan.

N. B. — Keep your hands well floured all through the process of bread-

10. Turn the dough out on a well-floured board, and knead it well, using up a good deal more flour.

11. Divide the dough into six equal pieces, knead each piece separately, and make it into a loaf.

N. B. — If the bread is to be baked in tins, form each loaf into a dumpling or ball (with a smooth surface, and no cracks in it), either long or round, according to the shape of the tin.

12. Put the bread into the tins, which should be well floured.

13. Cut a slit in the top of the dough, or prick it with a fork.

BUNS, BISCUITS, ROLLS, BREAD, ETC. 289

N. B. — If the bread is to be made into cottage loaves :

14. Divide eacli piece into two, one rather larger than the other.

16. Make each into a ball, put the smaller one on the

top of the other, and press your forefinger into the middle

of the top.

N. B. — Cottage reaves are baked on floured tins.

N. B. — If there are no tins, the oven-shelf should be washed and floured, and then a tin is not necessary.

16. Let the loaves rise half cm hour in a warm place, before putting them into the oven.

17. Then put them into the oven (the heat should rise to 280°, and after a quarter of an hour be reduced to 220°) for about one hour amd a half,

N. B. — To test if the bread is sufficiently baked, run a clean knife into the loaves ; and if it comes out perfectly bright, the bread is done.

18. When you take the bread out of the oven, stand each loaf up on its side to cool.

LESSON TENTH. UNFERMENTED BREAD. Ingredieiit8.--0ne pound of flour. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Salt. Time required^ aboiU three-quarters of an hour.

To make JJnfermented Bread :

1. Put one pound of flour into a basin, and mix into it one teaspoonful of lahing-powder and half a salt-spoonful of salt,

2. Add sufficient water to make it into a light, firm dough (not too stiff).

N. B.— It will take about half a pint of water.

290 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

3. Sprinkle flour over a board, and turn the dough out on it.

N. B.— Keep your hands floured, to prevent the dough from sticking to them.

4. Knead it with jour hands, and make it up quickly into small loaves.

N. B. — Small loaves do better than large ones for unfermented bread ; and the quicker the bread is made and put into the oven, the better.

5. Put the loaves on a floured baking-sheet, and put them in the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for half an hour,

N. B. — ^To see if bread is sufficiently baked, run a clean knife into it ; and if it comes out bright and untarnished, the bread is done.

6. Take the bread out of the oven, and stand each loaf on its side to cool.

CHAPTER XXII. SICK- BOOM COOKERY.

LESSON PIEST. CHICKEN PANADA.

Ingredients. — Half a chicken. A tablespoonful of cream. Time required^ about four hours.

To make Chicken Pamada :

1. Take a cliicken and clean it in the same way as in " Roasting a Fowl " (see " Trussing a Fowl for Roasting ").

2. Cut the chicken in half, dividing it down the mid- dle of the back with a sharp knife.

3. Take all the flesh off the bones of half the chicken, and cut it into small pieces with a sharp knife.

4. Put the pieces of chicken into a gallipot, and sprin- kle over them half a salt-spoonful of salt.

5. Take a piece of paper and tie it over the top of the gallipot.

6. Take a saucepan half full of boiling water and put it on the fire.

7. Stand the gallipot in the saucepan, and let it sim- mer for two hours. The water must not cover the gallipot.

8. After that time, take the gallipot out of the saucepan.

292 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

9. Take the pieces of chicken out with a spoon, and be careful not to lose any of the liquor.

10. Take the pieces of chicken and put them into a mortar, and pound them well to a pulp.

11. Take a tammy-sieve and stand it over a basin.

12. Pass the pounded chicken through the sieve, rubbing it with a wooden spoon. Pour a little of the chicken- liquor into the pulp on the sieve, to make it pass through more easily.

13. When all the chicken-pulp has been passed through into the basin, stir in one tablespoonful of cream.

Use the bones for Chicken Broth :

1. Take the chicken-bones and put them in a saucepan with one pint of cold water.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil for three hours.

3. "Watch it, and skim it occasionally.

4. When required for use, take a strainer and strain the chicken broth into a basin.

5. Flavor it with pepper and salt, according to the taste of the patient.

N. B. — Some of this broth is required to help to pass the chicken through the sieve.

LESSON SECOND. BEEF ESSENCE.

Ingredients. — One pound of gravy-beef. Time required^ about two hours.

To make Beef Essence :

1. Take one pound of gra/vy-heef, and cut off all fat and gristle with a sharp knife.

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. . 293

2. Cut the le(m up into small pieces, and put them into a jar.

3. Put the cover over the jar, and tie a piece of paper over it.

4. Take a saucepan half full of hoiling water and stand it on the fire.

5. Stand the jar in the saucepan of boiling water, to steam for two hours. The water must not cover the jar.

6. When it is done, take a strainer and put it over a basin.

7. Strain off the liquor into the basin, and flavor it 'Vfiih pepper and salt, according to the patient's complaint.

N. B. — ^Tbe meat can be put aside, and used again for second stock.

LESSON THIED.

CEEAM OF BAELEY.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of veal cutlet. Half an ounce of barley. Half a gill of cream.

Time required, abovi four hours.

To make Cream of Barley :

1. Take half a pound of veal cutlet, and cut off all the fat with a sharp knife.

2. Cut the lean into small pieces, and put it in a saucepan with one pint of cold water.

3. Add half an ounce of barley, previously well washed and soaked an hour or two in cold water, and half a salt- spoonful of salt.

4. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it boil for two hours.

5. Strain off the liquor into a basin, and put the meat and barley in a mortar, and pound them together.

294 LESSONS IN COOKERY,

6. Take a liair sieve and put it over a basin.

7. Turn the pounded meat and barley on to the sieve, and rub them through with a wooden spoon.

8. Pour the liquor on to the sieve, to help the pulp to pass through.

9. When it has all passed through the sieve into the basin, stir in smoothly two tablespoonfuls of cream.

LESSON FOURTH. A CUP OF ARKOW-EOOT, AND ARROW-ROOT PUDDING.

Ingredients. — A dessertspoonful of arrow-root. Half a pint of milk.

Powdered sugar. Two eggs.

2H,me required, about a quarter of an hour.

To make a Cup qf Arrow-root :

1. Take a dessertspoonful of arrow-root and put it into a small basin.

2. Add a dessertspoorful qf cold mUlc, and stir it smoothly into a paste with a spoon.

3. Add a small teaspoonful of powdered sugar ^ accord- ing to taste.

4. Take a small saucepan and put in it half a pint of cold milk.

5. Put the saucepan on the fire, and watch the milk carefully until it boils.

6. When it is quite boiling, pour it on to the arrow- root paste, stirring all the time to get it quite smooth.

N. B. — If the patient prefers an Arrow-root Pudding :

7. Add to the mixture described above the yolks of two eggs, whipping it all well together.

N. B. — The eggs should not be added till the mixture has cooled a little, for they would curdle.

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 295

8. Put tlie whites of the same eggs into another basin, and whisk them to a stiff froth.

9. Add the whites of the eggs to the arrow-root mix- ture, stirring them lightly together.

10. Pour the mixture into a buttered dish, and put it into the oven (the heat should rise to 240°) to bake for ten minutes.

LESSON FIFTH.

EIOE- W AT ER.

Ingredients. — Three ounces of rice. One inch of dnnamon-stick. Sugar. Time required^ about one hour.

To make I^ice - Water :

1. Take three ounces of rice and wash it well in two or three waters.

2. Take a stewpan with one quart of warm water, 8. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil.

4. When the water is quite boiling, put in the rice, and one inch of the stick of cinnamon, and let it boil for one hour, until the rice has become a pulp.

5. Then take the stewpan off the fire and strain the rice-water into a basin, and sweeten it according to taste.

N. B. — When cold, it is ready for use.

14

296 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SIXTH.

BAELEY-WATEE.

Ingredients. — Two ounces of pearl barley. The rind of a quarter of a lemon. Two lumps of loaf sugar.

Ingredients (for making Thick Barley- Water). — Two ounces of pearl bar- ley. The rind of half a lemon. Sugar.

Time required^ about two hours.

To make two kinds of Barley -Water — Clear Barley Water and Thick Barley - Water.

For half a jpint of Clear Barley - Water :

1. Take two ounces of pearl barley and wasli it well in two or three waters.

2. Put a kettle of water on the fire to boil.

3. Take a quarter of a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and peel it very thin.

N. B. — Be careful, in peeling the lemon, not to cut any of the white skin, as it would make it bitter.

4. Put the washed barley into a jug.

5. Put in the lemon-peel, and two lumps of loaf sugar.

6. When the water in the kettle is quite boiling, pour one pint of it on to the barley in the jug.

7. Cover over the top of the jug, and let it stand on ice, or in a cool place, until it is perfectly cold.

8. Then strain the water into a clean jug for use.

N. B. — The barley can be used again, with the addition of one ounce of fresh.

For one pint of Thiclc Barley - Water : 1. Take two ounces of pearl harley and wash it well in two or three waters.

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 297

2. Put the barley into a stewpan, with one quart of cold water.

3. Put the stewpan on the fire, and let it boil gently for two hours.

4. Take half a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and peel it very thin.

5. Put the lemon-peel into a jug.

6. When the barley-water is sufficiently boiled, strain it into the jug over the lemon.

7. Put the jug into a cool place ; when it is perfectly cold, take out the lemon-peel, and sweeten the water ac- cording to taste.

LESSON SEVENTH. APPLE-WATEK. Ingredients. — Six apples. The rind of half a lemon. Sugar. Time required for making, about eight minutes.

To make Ajpjple - Water :

1. Take six apples, peel them, and cut out the cores.

N.B. — When the apples are juicy, six will be sufficient; but more may be required, according to the season of the year.

2. Put a kettle of water on the fire to boil.

3. Cut up the apples in slices.

4. Take half a lemon, wipe it clean in a cloth, and peel it very thin.

6. Put the slices of apple and the lemon-rind into a jug.

6. When the water is quite boiling, pour one quart of it on to the apples in the jug.

7. Sweeten it according to taste.

8. Stand the jug of apple- water aside to cool.

9. When the water is quite cold, strain it into an- other jug, and it is then ready for use.

298 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON EIGHTH. LEMONADE.

Ingrredients. — Two lemons. Loaf sugar. Time required^ about one hour.

To make Lemonade :

1. Put a kettle of water on the fire to boil.

2. Take two lemons^ wipe them clean in a cloth, and peel them very thin.

N. B. — Be careful, in cutting the lemons, not to cut any of the pith, or white skin, as it would make the lemonade bitter.

3. ]^ow cut off all the pith.

4. Cut up the lemons into thin slices, take out all the pips, and put the slices and half the rind of the lemons into a jug.

5. Add loaf sugar according to taste — about one ounce.

6. When the water is quite boiling, pour one pint and a half on to the lemons in the jug.

7. Cover over the jug, and stand it aside to cool.

8. When the lemonade is quite cold, strain it into an- other jug, and it is then ready for use.

LESSON NINTH. TOAST AOT) WATER.

Ingredients. — One crust of bread. One quart of water. Time required, half an hour.

To make Toast and Water :

1. Take a crust of Iread and toast it quite brown on all sides, in front of the fire.

N, B. — Crumb should not be used, as it would turn sour.

SICK-ROOM COOKERY.

2. Put the toasted crust of bread into a jug, and pour on it one quart of cold water.

3. Cover the jug with a cloth, and stand it aside for half an hov/r.

N. B. — This is a pleasant drink, and considered more refreshing than when made with boiling water.

LESSON TENTH.

GEUEL.

Ingredients. — Two dessertspoonfuls of patent groats. Sugar. A small piece of fresh butter. Half a gill of rum.

Time required^ ah(AU fifteen minutes.

To make Gruel :

1. Put a stewpan with one pint of water on the fire to boil.

2. Take two dessertspoonfuls of patent groats and put them in a basin.

3. Add, by degrees, two tablespoonfuls of cold water to the groats, and stir it into a smooth paste.

4. When the water in the stewpan is quite boiling, pour in the mixed gruel and stir it well with a wooden spoon, until it has boiled for ten minutes (it must not be lumpy) ; then pour it into a basin, and it is ready for use.

N. B. — If the gruel is required for a cold :

6. Stir in a piece of fresh butter the size of a chestnut, and sweeten it according to taste.

6. Also add two tablespoonfuls of rum.

N. B. — IS. the patient is feverish, spirits should not be added.

300 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON ELEVENTH.

Ingredients (for White-Wine Whey). — Half a pint of milk. Four lumps of sugar. One wineglassful of wine.

Ingredients (for Treacle Posset). — Half a pint of milk. Half a gill of treacle.

l^me required, about ten minutes.

To make White - Wine Whey :

1. Put half a pint of milk into a saucepan, and four lumps of sugar.

2. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil.

3. "When it boils, pour in a wineglassful of wine {sherry or cowslip ^ according to taste).

N. B. — If the milk is not quite boiling, the wine will not curdle it.

4. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it stand for about one minute.

5. Then strain the whey into a glass.

N. B. — The curds are not digestible.

N. B. — Treacle Posset is made in the same way, except that no sugar should be added to the milk, and the same quantity of treacle is used instead of wine.

LESSON TWELPTH. BRAN TEA. Ingredients. — Three tablespoonfuls of bran. Sugar or honey. Time required, about twenty minutes.

To make Bran Tea :

1. Put a kettle of warm water on the fire to boil.

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 301

2. Take three taUespoonfuls of Iran (not too coarse, for that is greasy) and put it into a large jug.

N. B. — Bran is the husk of the grain, which is sifted from the flour after the wheat is ground by the miller.

3. When the water is quite boiling, pour one quart into the jug.

4. Cover the jug, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour to draw.

5. When it is drawn, strain off the tea through a piece of muslin, and sweeten it according to taste with either sugar or honey.

N. B. — When wine is good for the patient, it may be added to the tea, or a little lemon-juice, but it is very good without.

N. B. — ^This is an invaluable drink for softening the throat.

LESSON THIRTEENTH. MUTTON BKOTH.

Ingredients. — Four pounds of the scrag end of the neck of mutton. Two knuckles from the legs of mutton. A salt-spoonful of salt. Two ounces of rice.

Time required for making : The stock should he made the day before, and then the broth can be finished in about half an hour.

To make two quarts of Mutton Broth :

1. Take four pounds of the scrag end of the neck of mutton^ wash it well, put it on a board, cut away all the fat., and chop it up in large pieces.

2. Put these pieces into the stewpan, with two knuckle- bones from the legs of mutton.

3. Pour in five pints of cold water, and add a salt- spoonful of salt.

302 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

4. Put tlie stewpan on tlie fire, just bring it to the "boil, and then let it simmer iorfour hours.

5. Watch it, and skim it very often.

6. After that time, strain the stock into a basin, and put it aside until it is quite cold and in a stiff jelly.

7. Then take the stoch and remove all the fat from the top with a spoon.

8. Take a clean cloth and dip it in hot water, and dab over the top of the stock so as to remove every particle of grease.

9. IS'ow take a clean dry cloth and wipe the top of the stock dry.

10. Take two ounces of rice and wash it well in two or three waters.

11. Put the stock into a stewpan.

12. Put the stewpan on the fire to boil.

13. "When the stock is quite boiling, stir in the ricey and let it boil for twenty-five mmutes^ to cook the rice.

N. B. — See that the rice is quite tender.

14. Season it with pepper and salt, according to the patient's complaint.

16. For serving, pour the broth into a basin.

N. B. — ^The hmies should be put in the stock-^ot.

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 303

LESSON FOUETEENTH.

MTJTTON BKOTH.

Ingredients. — Two pounds of the scrag end of the neck of mutton. One ounce of pearl barley or rice. Half a salt-spoonful of salt. Half an ounce of butter. Half an ounce of flour. Two sprigs of parsley.

Hme required, abotU two hours and forty minutes.

To make Mutton Broth :

1. Take two jpounds of the scrag end of the neck of mutton and wash it well until it is quite clean.

2. Put the meat into a large saucepan with three pints of cold water ^ and put it on the fire to boil.

3. Take on,e ou/nce of pearl harley or rice and wash it well in cold water.

4. When the water boils, put in the pearl harley or rice, and half a salt-spoonful of salt, to help the scum to rise.

5. E^ow draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for two hours and a half .

6. Watch it, and skim it occasionally with a spoon.

7. If the meat is required for immediate use, make sauce to pour over it.

8. Take a sprig or two of parsley, wash it and clean it in a cloth, put it on a board, and chop it up fine with a knife.

9. Put half an ounce of butter into a saucepan, and put it on the fire.

10. When the butter is melted, stir in smoothly haK an ounce of flour with a wooden spoon.

11. Take one gill of broth from the mutton, pour it on to the butter and flour, and stir smoothly until it boils and thickens.

304 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

12. Now add the chopped parsley to the sauce, and move the saucepan to the side of the fire, to keep warm till required for use.

13. When the mutton is sufficiently cooked, take out the meat and put it on a hot dish.

14. Pour the parsley-sauce all over the mutton. 16. Pour the broth into a basin to cool.

16. When it is cold, remove all the fat before warming it up for use.

N. B. — If the broth is required for immediate use, remove the grease with blotting-paper or whity-brown paper.

LESSON PIFTEENTH.

BEEF TEA.

Ingredients. — One pound of gravy-beef. Time required, about six hours.

To make Beef Tea :

1. Take one j^ound of gravy-heef, put it on a board, and cut it up very fine, removing all the sJcin and fat.

2. Put the meat into a saucepan, with one _pmt and a half of cold water ^ half a salt-sjpoonful of salt, and two or three pepper-corns, if allowed.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire, and just bring it to the boil.

4. Then move it to the side of the fire to simmer gently for five or six hours, but do not let it reduce too much.

N. B. — The lid should be on the saucepan.

5. After that time, pour off the beef tea, or strain it through a coarse cloth into a basin, and let it get cold.

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 305

6. Remove all fat from the beef tea before warming it up for use.

N.B.— Fat can be taken off hot beef tea with blotting-paper or whity-brown paper.

N. B. — It is better not to strain beef tea, as it removes all the little brown particles, which are most nutritious.

LESSON SIXTEENTH. BEEF TEA.

Ingredients.— Half a pound of gravy-beef. Time required^ about three hours and a quarter.

To make Beef Tea :

1. Take half a pound of gravy-beef, put it on a board, and cut it up very fine, removing all the skin and fat.

2. Put the meat into a stone jar with half a pint of water.

N. B.— In making this beef tea, the quantity of meat and water should be of equal weight — i. e., one pint to the pound.

3. Put the lid on the jar, and tie a piece of paper over it.

4. Stand the jar in a saucepan of boiling water on the hob for three hours, or in the oven for one hour and a half.

N. B. — ^If the jar is put into the saucepan of boiling water, you should be careful that the water does not cover the jar, or it would get inside.

6. After a time, take out the jar and pour off the beef tea into a cup.

N. B. — ^If allowed, add salt according to taste.

306 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON SEVENTEENTH. LIEBIG's QriCK BEEF TEA.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of gravy-beef. Time required^ about a quarter of an hour.

To make Baron Liehig's Quick Beef Tea :

1. Take half a pound of gravy-beef, put it on a board, and cut it up very fine, removing all the skin and fat.

2. Put it into a saucepan with its equal weight in water — i. e., half a pint.

3. Put the saucepan on the fire and bring it quickly to the boil.

4. Let it boil for jvce minutes^ and then pour it off into a cup.

LESSON EIGHTEENTH,

SAVORY CUSTARD.

Ingredients.— Two eggs. Salt. One gill of beef tea. Time required^ abend twenty minutes.

To make Savory Custa/rd:

1. Take the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, and put them in a small basin.

2. Add one gill of heef tea and a qua/rter of a salt- sjpoonful of salt,

3. Whisk up the eggs and the heef tea well together.

4. Take a small gallipot and butter it inside. 6. Pour the mixture into the gallipot.

6. Take a piece of whity-brown paper and butter it.

7. Put this buttered paper over the top of the gallipot, and tie it on with a piece of string.

SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 307

8. Take a saucepan of hot water and put it on the fire.

9. When the water is quite boiling, stand the little gallipot in it.

N. B. — The water must not quite reach the paper with which the gallipot is covered.

10. Draw this saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer for a quarter of an hour,

N. B. — ^It must not boil, or the custard will be spoiled.

11. Take the gallipot out of the saucepan, take off the buttered paper, and the custard is ready for serving.

CHAPTER XXIII CAJ{J^ED MEATS.

Note. — ^In the English edition of this work, the present chapter appeared under the title of " Australian Meat," which consists of cooked and canned meats that are brought into England in large variety, and are coming into such general use there that it was found desirable to give them some atten- tion at the training-school. "Australian Meat," however, is not to be ob- tained in the American market ; but as we have its equivalent in the canned meats put up in this country, the title of the chapter has been changed, to prevent misapprehension and inconvenience.

The directions in the following lessons are not so much for cooking canned meats — which are indeed already cooked — as for using them as ingredients of various complex dishes, such as soups, stews, curries, fricassees, and hashes, and for these purposes the American canned preparations answer just as well as the Australian. For such uses canned meats deserve more attention than they generally receive.^ Everybody now understands the value of having fruits and vegetables — such as peaches, cherries, pears, tomatoes, corn, beans, peas, and asparagus — ready at hand, as they not only give an agreeable and healthy variety to diet, but are easily and quickly prepared, and thus save labor and trouble to the house-keeper. The advantages are the same with canned meats, especially in the country, where markets are not near by. And even in competition with butcher's meat, canned beef and mutton do not make a bad showing in point of economy ; for when beef and mutton are procured from the market, there is not only a loss by the removal of bone, fat, and gristle, but also a loss of weight in the operation of cooking, so that the meat upon the table should properly be estimated at nearly double the market-price. As the canned meats consist of the pure muscular fibres, with

1 Tet their use is rapidly extending. We were informed by Mr. Alexander "Wiley, the intelligent superintendent of the department of " canned goods " in the establishment of H. K. «fe F. B. Thurber, of New York, that this trade has doubled in a comparatively short time, while the saving to the country through this preservation of perishable food-prod- ucts is probably not less than fifty million dollars annually.

CANNED MEATS. 309

their contained nutritive juices, these sources of loss are avoided ; and while the expense is no greater, the trouble of preparation is saved.

In purchasing canned meats, much depends upon the character of the articles, and the buyer will consult his interest by purchasing only well-known brands. Among these are Thurber & Co., Wilson, Libby, Underwood, and Richardson & Robbins. Almost everything in the way of meat is to be had thus preserved, but different establishments confine themselves more or less to special preparations. As an example of the variety of animal products that are furnished in this manner, the following are selected from Thurber's Price-List of June 6, 1878 : Corned beef, beef tongue, mutton, ham, lamb's tongue, pig's feet, tripe, sausage, pork and beans, turkey, duck, chicken, clams, clam broth, lobster, oysters, green turtle, salmon, shrimps, codfish- balls, julienne, mock-turtle and ox-tail soups, condensed milk. Most of these articles are, moreover, prepared in a variety of forms. — Editor,

LESSON FIRST. MULLIGATAWNY.

Ingredients. — Two-pound tin of canned calf's-head. Two pounds of canned mutton or chicken. Two apples. Two leeks. Two carrots. One turnip. Two good-sized onions. Two tablespoonfuls of flour. One table- spoonful of curry-powder. Salt and sugar. A bunch of herbs.

Time required, three hours.

To make Mulligatawny Soup :

1. Take two pounds of canned mutton or chicken out of the tin ; put it in a basin with two quarts of warm water.

2. Peel two apples^ and put them on a plate.

3. Cut the apples in quarter's, cut out the core, and then cut the quarters into slices, and put them into a saucepan with two ounces of the clarified fat.

4. Take one turnip and two good-sized onions, peel them, cut them in pieces, and put them in the saucepan.

6. Put the saucepan on the fire, and give one stir to the vegetables with a wooden spoon.

310 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Take two leeks, wash them well in cold water, and cut off the green tops of the leaves.

7. Cut up the leeJcs and put them in the saucepan.

8. Take two carrots, wash them, scrape them with a knife, cut them in pieces, and put them in the saucepan.

9. Give one stir with a wooden spoon, to mix the vege- tables together, and let them fry for ten minutes,

10. Also add a s;prig of jpa/rsley, a sprig of thyme, a sjprig of marjoram, and t/wo hay-leaves, tied tightly together with a piece of string.

11. When the vegetables have fried for ten mmutes, take half a jmit of the liguor (in which the meat is soaking), pour it into the saucepan, and let it boil and reduce to a quarter of a pint.

12. Stir the vegetables occasionally.

13. Put t/wo tablesjpoonfuls of flour and one tdblespoonful of curry-powder into a basin, and mix them into a smooth paste with one gill of the liquor.

14. Stir this mixture into the saucepan with the vegetables.

15. JS^ow put the meat ovfowl and the remaining liquor into the saucepan, put the lid on, and let it come to the boil.

16. "When it boils, put one salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt-spoonful of moist suga/r into the saucepan.

17. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire and let it simmer for two hours and a half

18. "Watch it, and skim it occasionally with a spoon.

19. After that time strain off the soup through a strainer into a basin.

20. Pour the soup back into the saucepan.

21. Open the two-pound tin of calf^s-head', remove all the fat from the top, and stir the contents of the tin into the soup in the saucepan.

22. For serving, pour the soup into a hot soup-tureen.

CANNED MEATS. 311

LESSON SECOND. BROWN PUKEE.

Ingredients. — One pound of canned mince-meat. Two carrots and a small turnip. Two leeks. Two sticks of celery. One onion stuck with four cloves. A bouquet garni (two bay-leaves, thyme, and marjoram). A sprig of parsley. One teaspoonful of Liebig's Extract.

Ttrne required, about two hours.

To make Brown Puree :

1. Open a tin of ccmned mmGe-mea% and put the meat in a mortar.

2. Pound the meat well with a pestle.

3. Put imo quarts of water into a saucepan and put it on the fire to boil.

4. Wash two carrots and scrape them with a knife.

6. Cut off the outside green leaves of two leehs^ wash them thoroughly in cold water, and cut them in quarters.

6. Take two sticks of celery, wash them, and scrape them clean with a knife.

7. Tie these vegetables into a small bundle with a string.

8. Take one small turnip and peel it.

9. Take an onion, peel it, and stick four cloves in it.

10. When the water in the saucepan is quite boiling, put in all these vegetables.

11. Add a bouquet garni, consisting of two bay-leaves and a sprig of thyme and marjoram, tied tightly together.

12. Take a sprig of parsley, wash it in cold water, wring it in a cloth, and put it in the saucepan.

13. Take the jelly which came from the meat, and a little more out of the tin, and put it in the saucepan.

14. Stir in one teaspoonful of Liebig'^s Extract, or ten or twelve drops of caramel (see note below), for coloring.

312 LESSONS m COOKERY.

15. Let the vegetables boil gently for an hour and a half.

N. B. — The lid should be on the saucepan.

16c After that time stir in the jpomided meat^ and season according to taste.

17. Take a colander and strain the jpuree through on to a hot dish.

N. B. — To make caramel (browned sugar) for coloring gravies, etc. : Put a quarter of a pound of moist or loaf sugar into an old saucepan, and put it on the fire and let it burn until it has become quite a dark-brown liquid ; add to it half a pint of boiling water, and let it boil for five minutes, stirring it occasionally ; then strain it and pour it into a bottle, and it is ready for use at any time.

LESSON TRIED.

IRISH STEW.

Ingredients. — One and a half pound of canned meat. One and a half

pound of potatoes. Half a pound of onions. Time required^ about one hour.

To make an Irish Stew :

1. "Wash one and a half pound of potatoes well in cold water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush.

N. B. — ^If the potatoes are not very good, or are in any way diseased, take a sharp knife, peel them, and cut out the eyes and any black specks about them ; but it is much better to steam or boil them in their skins.

2. Fill a saucepan with hot water and put it on the fire to boil.

3. Peel half a pound of onions.

4. When the water is quite boiling, put the potatoes in a steamer and sprinkle them over with salt.

N. B. — As the onions are to be eaten with the potatoes, put them in the saucepan of boiling water, and they can be boiled while the potatoes are being steamed.

CANNED MEATS. 313

5. Place the steamer on the saucepan of boiling water, and cover it down tight to keep the steam in.

6. Let the jpotatoes steam and the onions boil for half an hour.

7. Now open a tin of canned meat,

8. Take one and a half pound of meat out of the tin and cut it in slices.

9. Take a fork and put it in i\iQ potatoes and the onions, to feel if they are quite tender.

10. When they are sufficiently cooked, take the potatoes out of the steamer, put them on a board, peel them care- fully, and cut them in slices.

11. Take the onions out of the saucepan, put them on a board, and cut them in slices.

12. Take a large saucepan, put in a layer of potatoes, then a layer of onions, and then a layer of meat.

13. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over each layer of meat for seasoning.

14. Pour half a pint of warm water into the saucepan, put it on the fire, and let the meat and vegetables simmer until they are thoroughly warmed through.

15. For serving, turn the Irish stew out on to a hot dish.

LESSON POTJRTH.

SAUSAGE KOLLS.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of mince-meat. Half a pound of flour. Half a pound of dripping. One teaspoonf ul of baking-powder. Salt and pepper. Four sage-leaves. One egg.

Time required^ half an hour.

To make Sausage Rolls :

1. Take a tin of canned mince-meat and open it carefully.

314 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

2. Take half a pound of the mince-meat out of the tin, put it in a basin, and season it well with pepper am^d salt.

3. Take four sage-leaves, put them on a board, and chop them up as finely as possible with a knife.

4. Mix the chopped sage well into the mince-Tneat with a spoon.

5. Put one pound of flour into another basin.

6. Add to it one teaspoonful of hahing-powder, a pinch of salt, and half a pound of clarified drippvng,

7. Eub the dripping well into the flour with your hands.

N. B. — Mix it thoroughly, and be careful not to leave any lumps.

8. Add enough water to the flour to make it into a stiff paste,

9. Flour the paste-board and turn the paste out on it.

N. B. — Divide the paste in two, so as not to handle it too much.

10. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out each portion into a thin sheet, about one-eighth of an inch in thickness.

11. Cut ^<Q paste into pieces about six inches square.

12. Collect all the scraps of paste (so that none will be wasted), fold them together, and roll them out and cut them into squares.

N. B. — There should be about two dozen squares of paste.

13. Put about a tahlespoonful of the mince-meat into the centre of each square of paste.

14. Fold the paste round the meat, joining it smoothly down the centre, and pressing the ends of "CiM^pa^te together with your finger and thumb.

15. Take a baking-tin, grease it well, and place the savr sage roUs on it.

CANNED MEAT. 315

16. Break one egg on to a plate, and beat it slightly with a knife.

17. Take a paste-brush, dip it in the egg, and paint over the tops of the rolls.

18. Place the tin in a hot oven to bake for fifteen min- utes,

N. B. — Look at them once or twice, and turn them if necessary, so that they shall be equally baked.

19. For serving, take the rolls ofE the tin and place them on a hot dish.

LESSON FIFTH. CTRKIED BABBIT.

Ingredients. — ^Two-pound tin of canned rabbit. Two ounces of butter or dripping. Two moderate-sized onions. One good-sized apple. One dessertspoonful of curry-powder. Salt and flour. Rice served with the curry.

Time required, half an hour.

To make a Curry of Canned Babbit or Chichen :

1. Take a two-pound tin of rdbhit and open it care- fully.

N. B. — Chicken or any other meat can be used for the curry instead of rabbit.

2. Put two ounces of hutter or clarified fat into a stew- pan.

3. Put the stewpan on the fire to heat the fat.

4. Peel two medium-sized onions and cut them in slices. 6. When the fat is quite hot, put in the onions to fry

brown.

N. B. — ^Watch it, and stir the onions occasionally, so as not to let them burn, or stick to the bottom of the pan.

316 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

6. Turn the rabhit out of the tin on to a plate.

7. Take a good-sized apjple, peel it, take out the core, and chop it up as finely as possible.

8. When the onions are sufficiently browned, take all the pieces carefully out of the stewpan with a perforated spoon, and put them on a plate.

9. Take the pieces of rabhit, dry them in a cloth, and sprinkle them over well ^lih. flour.

10. JSTow put the pieces of rahhit into the stewpan to fry a nice brown.

11. Turn the pieces occasionally so as to let them brown on both sides alike.

12. Put a dessertspoonful of mirry-powder into a cup, and mix it into a smooth paste with a little cold water,

13. When the rabbit is browned, put the chopped apple and \hQ fried onions into the stewpan.

14. Stir in smoothly the curry-paste, and then add half a pint of cold water or stoch, and salt according to taste.

16. Give one stir with a spoon, and mix it all together.

16. Now put the lid on the stewpan, draw it rather to the side of the fire, and let it stew very gently for about a quarter of an hour, until the apple is quite tender.

17. Boil the rice as directed. {See Lesson on " Rice.")

18. For serving, turn the curry on to a hot dish. The rice can be put as a border on the same dish as the curry y or served on a separate dish.

CANNED MEATS. 317

lESSON SIXTH.

MEAT PIE.

Ingredients. — One and a half pound of canned mutton or beef. Half a pound of canned kidneys. Three-quarters of a pound of flour. One- quarter of a pound of dripping. One teaspoonful of baking-powder. Pepper and salt.

Time required, about three-quarters of an hour.

To make Meat Pie :

1. Open a tin of canned mutton or heef.

2. Take one and a half pound of the meat out of the tin and cut it neatly into nice-sized pieces, and season "^ith. pepper and salt.

3. Take half a pound of the Jcidneys and cut them up in pieces.

4. Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a basin with a small teaspoonful of hahing-powder and a pinch of salt.

5. Take a quarter of a pound of clarified dripping and rub it well into i\iQ flour with your hands.

N. B. — Be careful not to leave any lumps.

6. Add sufficient water to make it into a stiff paste; it will take rather less than one gill.

7. Take a board, flour it, and put the^^^^^^ on it.

8. Take a quart pie-dish and fill it with the pieces of meat and Icidney.

9. Take a little of ih^ jelly out of the tin and put it in the dish with the meat, to make the gravy.

10. Take a rolling-pin, flour it, and roll out i^iQ paste to the shape of the top of the pie-dish, only rather larger.

N. B. — Keep your hands floured, to prevent the paste sticking.

318 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

11. Take a knife, dip it in the flour ^ and cut off a strip of the paste about one inch wide.

N. B. — This strip should be cut off from round the edge of the poite^ leaving the centre piece the size of the top of the pie-dish.

12. Wet the edge of the pie-dish with water, and place the strip oijpaste round the edge.

13. Now wet the strip of paste on the pie-dish.

14. Take the piece of paste, lay it over the top of the pie-dish, pressing the edges together with your thumb.

15. Flour a knife and trim off the rough edges of the paste.

16. Take the knife, and with the back of the blade make little notches in the edge of the paste, pressing it with your thumb, to keep it in its proper place.

17. Make a small hole in the centre of the paste, to let out the steam while it is baking.

18. Ornament the top of the pie with the remains of the paste, according to taste.

19. Put the pie into a quick oven to bake for half an hour.

20. Look at it occasionally, to see that it does not burn.

LESSON SEVENTH.

FEICASSEE OF MUTTON.

Ingredients. — Two pounds of canned mutton. Two ounces of butter. One and a half ounce of flour. Pepper and salt. One dozen mushrooms. Bread. About a pint of milk.

71,me required, about half an hour.

To make Fricassee of Mutton :

1. Put two ounces of hutter into a saucepan, and put it on the fire.

CANNED MEATS. 319

2. When the hutter is melted, stir in one and a half ounce ofjkmr^ and a little jpepjper and salt according to taste.

3. ]^ow pour in three-quarters of a jpint of cold milhj and stir smoothly with a wooden spoon until it boils and thickens.

4. Peel one dozen mushrooms, and cut off the ends of the stalks.

5. Add these mushrooms to the sauce, and let them stew geutlj until they are quite tender.

6. Wash the peel and stalks of the mushrooms in cold water, and put them in a small saucepan with about a gill of milk.

7. Put the saucepan on the fire and let it stew gently, to extract i\iQ flavor of the mushrooms.

8. Take a two-pound tin of mutton, open it carefully, and remove all the fat from the top of the meat with a spoon.

9. Turn the meat out of the tin and cut it in small pieces.

10. Cut a thin slice of crumb of bread, put it on a board, and cut it up in small square pieces.

11. Cut these square pieces in half cornerwise, making them into triangles.

12. Put three ounces of clarified dripping into a frying- pan, and put it on the fire to heat th^fat.

13. Take a piece of kitchen-paper and put it on a plate.

14. When the fat is quite hot and smoking, throw in the sippets of bread and let them fry a pale-brown.

15. Then take them out of the frying-pan and put them on the piece of paper, to drain off the grease.

16. Sprinkle a little salt over the sippets, and keep them

warm till required for use. 15

320 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

17. When the mushrooms are sufficiently cooked, strain the milk (in which the mushroom peelings were stewed), and stir it smoothly into the sauce.

18. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and when the sauce is a little cooled, put in the slices of mutton and let them just warm through.

N. B. — Be careful that the meat does not boil, or it will be hardened.

19. ISTow take out the pieces of meat and put them on a hot dish.

20. Pour the sauce over the meat^ and arrange the m^ushrooms in the centre.

21. Place the fried sippets of Iread round the edge of the dish.

LESSON EIGHTH.

RISSOLES.

Ingredients. — Half a pound of canned meat. Half a pound of flour. Four ounces of dripping. Salt and pepper. A few sprigs of dried herbs. One egg. Two ounces of vermicelli, or some bread-crumbs. Clarified dripping (for frying).

Time required^ one hour.

To make Rissoles of Canned Meat :

1. Put one jpound of clarified driving in a saucepan, and put it on the fire to heat.

N. B. — "Watch it, and be careful that it does not burn.

2. Put haf a pound of flour into a basin with 2. pinch of salt and four ounces of clarified dripping.

3. Rub the dripping well into the flour with your hands, until it is quite a powder.

4. Add a little cold water .^ and mix it into a stiff paste.

5. Flour a board and turn \h.Q paste out on it.

CANNED MEATS. 321

6. Take a tin of canned meat^ open it carefully, and with a spoon remove all tlieyb;^ from tlie part of the meat required for immediate use.

7. Take half a pound of meat out of the tin and scrape off as much of ihQ jelly as possible.

8. Put the meat on a board and chop it up as fine as possible.

N. B. — Minced meat might be used, which, of course, would not require chopping up.

9. Take a small bunch of dried herbs and rub the leaves into a powder.

N. B. — The stalks of the ha-bs need not be thrown away, as they can be used in soups for flavoring.

10. Sprinkle the herbs over the meat ; also a little pejp- jper and salt and a little j'^owa

11. Take a rolling-pin and roll out the paste as thin as possible.

12. Cut the paste into rounds with a cutter (which should be dipped in flour) ; the rounds should be rather larger than the top of a teacup.

13. Put some meat into the centre of each round of paste.

14. Break an egg on a plate and beat it up slightly with a knife.

15. Take a paste-brush, dip it in the egg^ and just wet the edges of the paste with the egg.

16. Fold the paste carefully over the meat, pressing the edges together with your thumb.

17. Take two ounces of 'vermicelli and rub it between your hands, crushing it up as fine as possible.

18. Put this crushed vermicelli on a piece of paper.

19. Put the rissoles into the plate of egg, and egg them well all over with the brush.

322 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

20. Then turn tliem into the crushed vermicelli, and cover them well with it, but not too thickly.

N. B. — Be careful to finger them as little as possible, so as not to rub off any of the egg or vermicelli^ or the rissoles will burst while frying. N. B. — Bread-crumbs might be used instead of vermicelli.

21. Take a frying-basket and put in the rissoles ; you must be careful that they do not touch each other.

22. When the fat in the saucepan is quite hot and smoking, put in the frying-basket and let the rissoles fry a minute or two, until they become brown.

23. Put a piece of kitchen-paper on a plate.

24. As the rissoles are fried, turn them from the fry- ing-basket on to the piece of paper, to drain off the grease.

25. Put them on a hot dish, and they are ready for serving:.

LESSON NINTH.

SAVORY HASH.

Ingredients. — A pound and a half of canned meat. One ounce of butter. Half an ounce of flour. Half an onion. A teaspoonful of vinegar. A dessertspoonful of chopped herbs. Pepper and salt. One dessert- spoonful of mushroom catchup.

Time required, about ten minutes.

To make a Savory Hash :

1. Put one ounce of lutter in a saucepan, and put it on the fire to melt.

2. Peel half an onion and cut it in slices.

3. Put the onion into the hutter.

4. Stir in half an ounce of flour, and let all fry for a minute or tnjoo to brown.

5. Take a tin of canned mutton or heef open it care-

CANNED MEATS. 323

fully, and remove the fat from the part of the meat re- quired for immediate use.

6. Take one and a half jpound of the meat out of the tin.

7. If all the meat is required for present use, turn it all out of the tin, and then rinse out the tin with half a j^nt of warm water ^ to make the gravy for the hash.

N. B. — If all the meat has not been taken out of the tin, take some of the jelly out of the tin, and melt it in half a pint of warm water, to make the gravy.

8. Pour this graA)y into the saucepan with the flour and hutter^ and stir well until it boils and thickens.

9. Now move the saucepan to the side of the fire to keep warm.

10. Take a penny'^s worth of mixed jpicMes and chop them up finely.

11. Stir the chopped pichles, or a teaspoonful of vinegar^ into the sauce.

N". B. — If the flavor of the pickles or the vinegar is disliked, they might be omitted.

12. Take a sprig or two of parsley (wash it and dry it in a cloth) and a sprig of marjoram and ihyme^ take away the stalks, and chop up the leaves finely on a board. (There should be about a dessertspoonful.)

13. Cut up the meat into neat pieces, and sprinkle over each piece some of the chopped herbs and a little pepper and salt.

14. Put the meat into the saucepan of sauce and let it just warm through for about j'^^ minutes.

15. E'ow pour into the sauce a dessertspoonful of mush- room catchup.

16. For serving, put the meat on a hot dish and strain the sauce over it.

324 LESSONS IN COOKERY.

LESSON TENTH.

MINCE-MEAT.

Ingredients. — One pound of canned mince-meat. A pound and a half of potatoes. One ounce of butter. One gill of milk. One tablespoonful of mushroom catchup. Salt and pepper.

Time required, about forty minutes.

To make a Mince served with Mashed Potatoes :

1. Wash one and a half pound of potatoes in cold water, and scrub them clean with a scrubbing-brush.

2. Peel them with a sharp knife ; cut out the eyes and any black specks.

3. Put them into a saucepan of cold water— enough to cover them — and sprinkle over them one teaspoonful of salt.

4. Put the saucepan on the fire to boil the jpotatoes for from twenty minutes to half an hour.

5. Take a fork and put it into the potatoes, to feel if the centre is quite tender.

6. When they are sufficiently boiled, drain off all the water, and stand the saucepan by the side of the fire with the lid half on, to steam tYiQ potatoes.

7. Put one ounce of hutter and one gill of milk into a small saucepan, and put it on the fire to boil.

8. When the potatoes have become quite dry, take the saucepan off the fire and stand it on a piece of paper on the table.

9. Mash them up smoothly with a spoon or fork.

N. B. — The best way to mash potatoes is to rub them through a wire sieve ; you can then be sure there are no lumps left.

10. When the milk boils, pour it into the mashed pota^ toes^ and stir it till it is quite smooth.

CANNED MEATS. 325

11. K^di pepper and salt according to taste.

12. Stand the saucepan of mashed potatoes by the side of the fire, to keep warm until required for use.

13. Open a can of mince-meat.

14. Take one pound of the mince out of the tin, put it in a saucepan with one taUespoonful of mushroom catchup, and stir it into a paste.

15. Put the saucepan on the fire and let the mince just warm through.

N. B. — Be very careful that it does not boil, or the meat will get hardened.

16. For serving, make a wall of the mashed potatoes round the edge of a hot dish, and pour the mince in the centre ; stand the dish in front of the fire, to color the potato SL pale-brown.

THE

PRINCIPLES OF DIET

IN

HEALTH AND DISEASE.

BY

THOMAS K. CHAMBERS, M.D.

[a. EBPEINT of the article " DIETETICS " IX THE NEW EDITION OF THE "encyclopedia BEITANNICA."]

THE PRINCIPLES OF DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

THE application of science to the regulation of the continuous demands of the body for nutriment aims mainly at three ob- jects : Health, Pleasure, and Economy. They are rarely inconsistent with one another, but yet require separate consideration, as, under varying circumstances, each may claim the most prominent place in our thoughts.

Influence of Diet upon Health.

The influence of diet upon the health of a man begins at the ear- liest stage of his life, and, indeed, is then greater than at any other period. It is varied by the several phases of internal growth and of external relations, and in old age is still important in prolonging existence and rendering it agreeable and useful.

Diet in Infancy. — No food has as yet been found so suitable for the young of all animals as their mother's milk. And this has not been from want of seeking. Dr. Brouzet ("Sur I'fiducation M6dici- nale des Enfants," i., p. 165) has such a bad opinion of human mothers, that he expresses a wish for the State to interfere and prevent them from suckling their children, lest they should communicate immoral- ity and disease ! A still more determined pessimist was the famous chemist. Van Helmont, who thought life had been reduced to its present shortness by our inborn propensities, and proposed to substi- tute bread boiled in beer and honey for milk, which latter he calls "brute's food." Baron Liebig has followed the lead with a "food for infants," in the prescription for which half-ounces and quarter- grains figure freely, and which has to be prepared on a slow fire, and after a few minutes boiled well. And after all, not nearly such a close imitation of human milk is made as by the addition to fresh

330 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

cow's milk of half its bulk of soft water, in each pint of which has been mixed a heaped-up teaspoonful of powdered " sugar of milk " and a pinch of phosphate of lime. Indeed, in default of these cheap chemicals, the milk and water alone, when fresh and pure, are safer than an artificial compound which requires cooking. And experi- ence shows that the best mode of administering food to the young is also that which is most widely adopted throughout warm-blooded nature — namely, in a fresh, tepid, liquid state, frequently, and in small quantities at a time.

Empirical observation is fully supported in these deductions by physiological and chemical science. Milk contains of

Water 88 per cent.

Oleaginous matter (cream or butter) 8 "

Nitrogenous matter (cheese and albumen) 4 "^

Hydrocarbon (sugar) 4J "^

Saline matter (phosphate of lime, chloride of sodium, iron, etc.) . | "

These are at once the constituents and the proportions of the con- stituents of food suited to a weakly, rapidly-growing animal. The large quantity of water makes it pass easily through the soft, ab- sorbent walls of the digestive canal ; and the complete suspension, in an alkaline fluid, of the finely-divided fat and nitrogenous matter introduces more of them than could be effected were they in a solid form. The fat is the germ of new cellular growtli, and the nitro- genous matter is by the new cells formed into flesh, which is doubling its bulk monthly. The phosphate of lime is required for the harden- ing bones, the chloride of sodium and the iron for the daily-increasing amount of blood in circulation. Milk may be said to be still alive as it leaves the breast fresh and warm, and quickly becomes living blood in the infant's veins. A very slight chemical change is requi- site. Its frequent administration is demanded by the rapid absorp- tion, and the absence of regular meals prevents the overloading of the delicate young stomach with more than it can hold at once.

The wholesomest nutriment for the first six months is milk alone. A vigorous baby can, indeed, bear with impunity much rough usage, and often appears none the worse for a certain quantity of farina- ceous food ; but the majority do not get habituated to it without an exhibition of dislike, which indicates rebellion of the bowels.

To give judicious diet its fair chance, the frame must be well protected from the cold ; and just in proportion as the normal tern-

THE FOOD OF INFANCY. 331

perature of the body is maintained, so does growth prosper, as is satisfactorily proved by experiments on the young of the lower animals.

It is only when the teeth are on their way to the front, as shown by dribbling, that the parotid glands secrete an active saliva capable of digesting bread-stuffs. Till then, anything but milk must be given tentatively, and considered in the light of a means of education for its future mode of nutrition. Among the varieties of such means, the most generally applicable are broth and beef-tea, at first pure, and then thickened with tapioca and arrow-root. Chicken-soup, made with a little cream and sugar, serves as a change. Baked flour, biscuit-powder, tops and bottoms, should all have their turn. Change is necessary in the imperfect dietary which art supplies, and for change the stomach should be prepared by habit.

The consequences of premature weaning are insidious. The external aspect of the child is that of health ; its muscles are strong, but the bones do not harden in proportion ; and if it tries to walk, its limbs give way, and it is said to be suffering from rachitis, or *' rickets."

These consequences follow in other animals as surely as in the human race ; and in them it was possible to make the experiment crucial. A gentleman named GuSrin set himself to find if he could produce rickets at will. He took a number of puppies in equally good condition, and, having let them suckle for a time, he suddenly weaned half of them and fed them on raw meat — a fare which on first thought would seem the most suitable for carnivorous animals. Nevertheless, after a short time those which continued to take the mother's milk had grown strong and hearty, while those which had been treated with a more substantial dietary pined, and frequently threw up their victuals, then their limbs bent, and at the end of about four months they showed all the symptoms of confirmed rickets. From these experiments we must conclude that the rachitis depended mainly on the derangements of nutrition brought on by improper diet. A diet which is taken at the wrong season may fairly be called improper. For carnivora, it is flesh before the age of suckling has passed ; for herbivora (and an experiment bearing on the point has been made on pigs), it is vegetable feeding begun when they ought to be at the teat.^

1 Trousseau, " Clinique Medicale," vol. iii., p. 484, third edition.

332 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

The time for weaning should be fixed partly by the child's age, partly by the growth of the teeth. The troubles to which children are subject at this crisis are usually gastric, such as are induced by summer weather ; therefore at that season the weaning should be postponed, whereas in winter it should be hurried forward. The first group of teeth, nine times out of ten, consists of the lower cen- tral front teeth, which may appear any time during the sixth and seventh month. The mother may then begin to diminish the num- ber of suckling times ; and by a month she can have reduced them to twice a day, so as to be ready, when the second group makes its way through the upper front gums, to cut off the supply altogether. The third group — the lateral incisors and first grinders — usually after the first anniversary of birth give notice that solid food can be chewed. But it is prudent to let dairy-milk form a considerable portion of the fare till the eye-teeth are cut, which seldom happens till the eighteenth or twentieth month. At this period children are liable to diarrhoea, convulsions, irritation of the brain, rashes, and febrile catarrhs. In such cases it is often advisable to resume a complete milk-diet, and sometimes a child's life has been saved by its reapplication to the breast. These means are most feasible when the patient is accus- tomed to milk ; indeed, if not, the latter expedient is hardly possible.

Diet in Childhood and Youth. — At this stage of life the diet must obviously be the best which is a transition from that of infancy to that of adult age. Growth is not completed, but yet entire surren- der of every consideration to the claim of growth is not possible, nor indeed desirable. Moreover, that abundance of adipose tissue, or reserve new growth, which a baby can bear, is an impediment to the due education of the muscles of the boy or girl. The supply of nu- triment needs not to be so continuous as before, but at the same time should be more frequent than for the adult. Up to at least fourteen or fifteen years of age the rule should be four meals a day, varied indeed, but nearly equal in nutritive power and in quantity — that is to say, all moderate, all sufficient. The maturity the body then reaches involves a hardening and enlargement of the bones and car- tilages, and a strengthening of the digestive organs, which in healthy young persons enables us to dispense with some of the watchful care bestowed upon their diet. Three full meals a day are generally suffi- cient, and the requirements of mental training may be allowed to a certain extent to modify the attention to nutrition, which has hith-

DIET IN CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH. 333

erto been paramount. But it must not be forgotten that the changes in figure and in internal organs are not completed till several years have passed, and that they involve increased growth and demand full supplies. As less bulky food is used, care should be taken that it is sufficiently nutritious, and habits should be acquired which con- duce to making the most of it for the maintenance of strength.

The nutritiousness of food depends on digestibility and concentra- tion. Food is digestible when it yields readily its constituents to the fluids destined for their reduction to absorbable chyme. It is more or less concentrated, according as a given weight contains more or less matter capable of supporting life. The degree in which they possess these qualifications united constitutes the absolute nutritive value of alimentary matters.

The degree of cohesion in the viands influences digestibility. Tough articles incapable of being completely ground up by the teeth re- main unused, while fluids and semifluids lead the van of digestibles. The tissues of young vegetables and young animals are, for this reason, more digestible than old specimens. It is desirable also that the post- mortem rigidity, which lasts several days in most instances, should have merged into softness before the meat is cooked, or should have been anticipated by cooking before the flesh is cold. In warm cli- mates and exceptionally warm weather, the latter course is the pref- erable. The dietician, especially when the feeding of the young is in question, will prefer those methods of culinary preparation which most break up the natural cohesion of the viands. And it may be noticed that the force of cohesion acts in all directions, and that it is no advantage for an article to be laterally friable if it remains stringy in a longitudinal direction.

Fat interposed between the component parts of food diminishes its digestibility. It is the interstitial fat, between the fasciculi of muscular fibre in beef, which renders it to young persons, and to dyspeptics, less digestible than mutton.

A temperature above that of the body retards digestion. Meat, which is digested by the gastric juice in the stomach, has time to cool before it gets there ; but farinaceous food, which depends for its conversion into chyme on the salivary glands, suffers a serious loss if, by reason of being too hot, it cannot avail itself of the saliva supplied by the mouth. It should also be borne in mind that a tem- perature much above that of the body cracks the enamel of the teeth.

334 I>IET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

Excessive concentration impairs digestibility. The principal me- dium by which nutriment is carried through the absorbent membrane of the digestive canal is water. There is no doubt it passes more rapidly by endosmosis than anything else. The removal, then, of water is an injury to viands ; and drying, salting, over-frying, over- roasting, and even over-boiling, renders them less soluble in the digestive juices, and so less nutritious. A familiar illustration of this may be taken from eggs. Let an egg be lightly boiled, poached in water, custarded, or raw, and the stomach even of an invalid can bear it ; but let it be baked in a pudding which requires a hot oven, or boiled hard, or otherwise submitted to a high temperature for a prolonged period, and it becomes a tasteless, leathery substance, which can be of no more use in the stomach than so much skin or hair. It is obvious, then, that it is mainly in a commercial point of view that articles of diet can be called nutritious in proportion to their concentration. About this there can be no question; milk adulterated from the pump is worth so much less than pure milk, and a pound of beef -steak sustains a man longer than a pint of veal- broth.

The attainment of nutritiousness by concentration is of consid- erable importance to travelers and in military medicine. There are not a few strategists who attribute the success of the Germans in the war of 1870 to the easily-carried and easily-prepared food supplied to them by the sausage-makers of Berlin. Concentration of viands carried to excess, so as to be likely to affect the health, is usually made manifest by a diminution in the secretion of urine and its con- densed condition ; while, on the other hand, if dilution is needlessly great, the action of the kidneys is excessive. Now, the urine of young persons is naturally of lower specific gravity — that is, more aqueous — than that of adults. If it is found to equal in density the excretion of full growth, or if it is observed to be voided but rarely, the meals should be made more bulky, or, better still, more frequent, so as not to overload the stomach.

An over-concentrated diet often induces costiveness. This should be counteracted by green vegetables and other dilute appetizing dishes, and never by purgative drugs. The habit of taking a consid- erable quantity and variety of fresh green vegetables has the further advantage of preventing that tendency to minor developments of scurvy which is not uncommonly found in youths nourished mainly

DIET FOR BODILY LABOR. 335

on animal food. A softness or friability of the gums is one of the first signs of this. . If the mouth bleeds after the application of a tooth-brush, the use of fresh vegetables at every meal should be enforced.

The young are peculiarly liable to be affected by poisons con- veyed in fluids. Their sensitive frames absorb quickly, and quickly turn to evil account such substances, even when diluted to an extent which makes them harmless to adults. The water, therefore, with which families, and still more with which schools, are supplied, should be carefully subjected to analysis. Wherever a trace of lead is found, means should be adopted to remove the source of it ; and organic products should have their origin clearly accounted for, and all possibility of sewage contamination excluded. These precautions are essential, in spite of the grown-up portion of the household hav- ing habitually used the water without injury.

Fresh milk has long had a bad popular reputation as occasionally conveying fever, and in some parts of Ireland the peasantry can hardly ever be got to take it "raw." This is quite irrespective of the state of the cattle which furnish it ; no cases of disease thus com- municated have ever been traced home to sick cows. It is probably always due either to adulteration with dirty water, or to the vessels being washed in that dangerous medium, or to their being exposed to air loaded with elements of contagion.

lip to the period of full development, the daily use of wine should be allowed only during illness and the express attendance of a med- ical adviser. Its habitual consumption by liealthy children hastens forward the crisis of puberty, checks growth, and habituates them to the artificial sensations induced by alcohol.

Diet for Bodily Labor. — It seems certain that the old theory of Liebig, which attributed the whole of the force exhibited in muscu- lar movements to the oxidation of muscular tissue, is untenable. There is not enough of the material oxidized — that is to say, destroyed and carried away as urea and other nitrogenous excretions — to gen- erate so much force, as measured by the method of Joule. On the other hand, Traube goes too far when he would make out that in the performance of muscular work the metamorphosis of the organized constituents of contractile tissue is not involved, and that non-nitro- genous substances alone are consumed. The prolonged feats of walking performed by the pedestrian Weston in 1876 vastly increased

336 I>IET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

the amounts excreted of those elements of the nrine which ai-e de- rived from the oxidation of muscle and nerve.^ The urea formed by the destructive assimilation of contractile fibre, and the phosphates whose main source is nervous tissue, were each nearly doubled dur- ing and shortly after the extraordinary strain upon those parts of the body. As might be expected, the machinery wears away quicker when it is harder worked, and requires to be repaired immediately by an enhanced quantity of new material, or it will be worn beyond the power of repair. The daily supply, therefore, of digestible nitro- genous food — meat par excellence — must be increased whenever the muscular exercise is increased. In making the recent extension of railways in Sicily, the progress was retarded by the slack work done by the Sicilian navvies, compared with that got through by the Eng- lish gangs. The former took scarcely any meat, preferring to save the wages expended by their comrades in that way. The idea oc- curred to the contractor of paying the men partly in money and partly in meat ; and the result was a marked increase in the amount of work executed, which was brought nearly up to the British aver- age. A mixed diet, with an increase in the proportionate quantity of meat when extra corporeal exertion is required, is the wholesomest, as well as the most economical, for all sorts of manual laborers.

It is absolutely essential that the fleshy machinery for doing work should be continuously replaced by flesh-food as it becomes worn out. Nitrogenous aliment, after a few chemical changes, replaces the lost muscle which has passed away in the excretions, just as the engineer makes ore into steel and renews the corroded boiler-plate or thinned piston. Now, as the renewal of the plate or piston is a *' stimulus " to the augmented performances of the engine, so meat is a " stimulus" to augmented muscular action. Taken in a digesti- ble form during exertion, it allows the exertion to be continued longer, with greater ease and less consequent exhaustion. Accord- ing to the testimony of soldiers experimentally put through forced marches of twenty miles a day, with loads of half a hundredweight each, "meat extract" bears away the palm from the other reputed stimulants commonly compared with it — viz., rum and coffee. "It does not put a spirit into you for a few miles only, but has a lasting

1 See Dr..Pavy on Weston's walk, in Lancet of December 23, 1876, The urea excreted when walking bore to that excreted during rest the relation of 17 to 10 ; phosphoric acid, 19 to 10; lime, 15 to 10, etc.

DIET AS A SOURCE OF FORCE. 337

effect. If I were ordered for continuous marching, and had my choice, I would certainly take the meat extract," said an unpreju- diced sergeant to Dr. Parkes, who was the conductor of the experi- ments alluded to.^

When the continuous repair of the muscular machinery is fully secured, the production of heat and force is most readily provided for hy vegetable aliment, by reason of the large proportion of carbon which it contains. In assigning their physiological functions to the several sorts of food, nearly all the business of begetting active force should apparently be ascribed to the solid hydrocarbons, starch and fat, by their conversion into carbonic acid. It is not necessary to be acquainted with every step of the process — which in the body we confessedly are not — to appreciate the argument. It is clearly im- portant that these elements of diet should be furnished in sufficient quantity, and in a digestible form. In additions to diet made in consequence of additional bodily work, not only should the stimulus of animal food be attended to, but the bulk of starch and fat in the rations should be augmented even in larger proportion, for these ali- ments are the most direct contributors of force.^

1 " On the Issue of a Spirit Eation during the Ashantee Campaign of 1874," by E. A. Parkes, M. D., Professor of Military Hygiene in the Army Medical School, London, 1876.

3 This is well illustrated by a remarkable feat performed on the Great Western Kailway In the summer of 1872. It was necessary to shift the rails from the broad to the narrow gauge on upward of 500 miles of permanent way within a fortnight. The task was enor- mous, for the Great Western is one of the few English lines whose rails are held down by bolts screwed into nuts. All these had to be unscrewed, and replaced after removing the heavy rail two feet About 3,000 men were employed, working double time, sometimes from 4 in the morning till 9 at night ; and, without one being sick or drunk, they accom- plished the work in the prescribed time. The scheme for generating muscular power was this : The men were hutted along the line, so as not to waste their strength by coming and going, and they brought with them bacon, bread, cheese, cocoa, etc., to provide their usual meals at usual times. But they had no boer, nor alcohol in any form. A pound and a half of oatmeal and half a pound of sugar was allowed extra to each man daily, and for every gang of twenty-one a cook was provided. The first thing done ia the morning was to breakfast ; and then the cook and his caldron started along the line till water was found convenient ; a fireplace of stones was built, and the pot boiled. Oatmeal was then sprin- kled into it with sugar, and thoroughly well boiled till thin gruel was made. As soon as the " shout for drink " was heard, buckets were filled and carried round, with small pan- nikins to convey the liquid to the panting mouths. The men liked it exceedingly, and learned by experience the importance of having it well cooked.

The incident may remind the reader of classical medicine of Hippocrates, who considers the culinary preparation of oatmeal ptisan so important, that, in a short treatise "On the Treatment of Acute Disease," he devotes to it the only cookery recipe he has inserted in his works. He describes how it is to be boiled till it can swell no longer (so that it may

338

DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

Training for athletic sports is based on the principles above enunciated. The usual time allotted to it is six weeks, and the ob- jects to be attained in this period may be described as —

1. The removal of superfluous fat and water.

2. The increase of contractile power in the muscles. 8. Increased endurance.

4. " Wind," that is to say, a power of breathing and circulating the blood steadily, in spite of exertion.

The first is aimed at by considerably adding to the daily amount of nitrogenous and by diminishing farinaceous and liquid food, and providing that it should be so consumed as to be fully digested. The second and third are secured by gradually increasing the de- mands made upon the muscles, till they have learned to exert at will all the powers of which they are capable, and for as long a period as the natural structure of the individual frame permits. " Wind " is improved by choosing as part of the training an exercise such as running, which can be sustained only when the respiratory and circulating organs do their duty fairly.

As an example, the Oxford system of training for the summer boat-races may be cited. It may be considered a typical regimen for fully developing a young man's corporeal powers to fulfill the de- mands of an extraordinary exertion — a standard which may be mod- ified according to the circumstances for which the training is re- quired. It is as follows :

A Day's Teaining.*

Else about 7 a. m.

Exercise A short walk or run.

( 1 Of tea

Breakfast at 8.80 •< | Meat— beef or mutton

( Bread or dry toast

Exercise in forenoon I None.

Meat — much the same as for

Dinner at 2 P.M.

breakfast.

Bread

Vegetables, none. Beer, one pint.

Not compulsory.

As little as possible.

Underdone.

Crust only recommended.

Crust only recommended. Not always adhered to.

swell no more in the stomach), how it is to be settled and strained through a coarse colan- der. He prescribes it, indeed, for sick people, but he would have been the first to agree with our advanced physiologists in the opinion that overstrained muscular effort produces the same effect as continued fever (es irvpeTov Ka6i<na.ra.i ju.a»cp6Tepov), its chief dangers lying in rise of temperature and arrested cutaneous action, and that its true antagonist is nutriment capable of rapid absorption, dissolved in that most essential nutriment, water. 1 See Maclaren^s " Training in Theory and Practice," appendix to edition of 1866.

USE OF FOOD IN BODILY TRAINIXG.

339

Exercise.

Supper at 8.30 or 9 p. m -{

Bed about 10.

About 5 o'clock start for the river, and row twice over tiie course, tlie speed in- creasing with the strength of the crew.

Meat, cold.

Bread, and perhaps a Uttle jelly or water-cresses.

Beer, one pint.

The Cambridge system differs very slightly, and in neither is any . exaggerated severity of discipline enforced, while some latitude is permitted to peculiarities and a wish for variety, and plenty of time is left for business and social intercourse. Other plans are objectionable, from involving, without any corresponding advantage, a complete departure from the usual habits of the educated classes. For instance, according to Clasper, dinner is to be at noon, with only a light tea afterward, and no supper. Then a country walk of four or five miles is to be taken before breakfast, and two hours' row afterward, and another hard row between dinner and tea.* *' Stonehenge," again, requires the time between breakfast and dinner to be spent entirely on billiards, skittles, quoits, rowing, and running, in spite of another hour's row being prescribed at 6 p. M. He also requires the aspirant for athletic honors to sleep between ten and eleven hours." Only professionals will carry out such rules, and even they do not either benefit their health or lengthen their lives by the sacrifice ; for it is notorious that " over- training" leads to a condition of system in which the sufferers de- scribe themselves as " fallen to pieces." The most peculiar symptom is a sudden loss of voluntary power after exertion. It is sometimes called " fainting," but there is no loss of sense, and it is quickly re- lieved by liquid food. It is to the pathologist a timely warning of that consequence of overstrained muscle which constitutes paralysis scriptorum, turner's palsy, and blacksmith's palsy, and which results in fatty degeneration of the red muscular fibre. To get and to keep its health, a muscle needs a constant alternation of active contraction and rest, and an enforced protraction of either one or the other leads to the loss of vital properties. The limbs of an Indian fakir, volun- tarily held in a strained posture, or those of a bed-ridden invalid, are

1 " Rowing Almanac," 1S63.

* Article " Boat-Eacing," in " British Rural Sports," 1861.

840 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

equally apt to become useless. Over-trained persons are also liable to a languor and apparent weakness, which is found, on examination, to depend on an excessive secretion of urea by the kidneys.

Such are not the results, however, of the training adopted' at the universities, by which it would appear that the constitution is strengthened, the intellect sharpened, and life lengthened. Dr. John Morgan ("University Oars," 1873) has collected statistics of the sub- sequent health of those who have rowed in the university races since 1829, and he finds that, whereas at twenty years of age, according to Farr's life tables, average expectation of survival is forty years, for these oarsmen it is forty-two years. Moreover, in the cases of death, inquiry into its causes exhibits evidence of good constitutions rather than the contrary, the causes consisting largely of fevers and acci- dents, to which the vigorous and active are more exposed than the sick. And it is not at the expense of the mind that the body is cul- tivated, for this roll of athletes is adorned with the names of bishops, poets, queen's counsel, etc.

Training greatly increases the vital capacity of the chest, so that much more air can be blown in and out of the lungs, and with greater force, than previously. And this vital capacity endures longer than the other improvements. It is evidence of the permanent elasticity of the pulmonary tissue, and an efficient protection against asthma, emphysema, and other degenerations of the organ of breathing.

Indigestion, sleeplessness, nervous indecision, palpitation of heart, and irregularity of bowels, disappear under training; but if they exist, the regimen should be entered on with more than usual caution.

An important modification of training is that which contemplates the reduction of corpulence which has increased to the extent of interfering with comfort and preventing active exercise. If an exhausting amount of muscular efi*ort is enforced, the digestion of meat is interfered with, while at the same time there still goes on the absorption of such fat as is unavoidably present in the victuals, so that the muscles and nerves lose strength, while the adipose tissue grows. Besides this, if by violent means the weight is worked down, then, to keep it down, those violent means must be persisted in; and if they be neglected for more interesting occupations, the burden rapidly increases to a greater degree than ever. Many uncomfortably obese persons are very active in mind and body, and could not add to their muscular exercise without risk of harm.

THE REDUCTIOX OF COEPULENCE. 341

Regimen, tlien, is more essentially important to them than to other trainers, and they will probably be more induced to attend to it if they understand the principles on which it is based. This is simply to exclude from the bill of fare all those articles which con- tain fat, or which, by the chemical actions of the digestive viscera, may be converted into fat.

For the reduction of corpulence, the following rules may be ob- served for a three weeks' course :

Eise at 7, rub the body w^ell with horse-hair gloves, have a cold bath, and take a short turn in the open air. Breakfast (alone) at 8 or 8.30, on the lean of beef or mutton (cutting off the fat and skin), dry toast, biscuit or oat-cake, a tumbler of claret and water, or tea without milk or sugar, or made in the Russian way, with a slice of lemon. Lunch at 1 on bread or biscuit, Dutch cheese, salad, water- cresses or roasted apples, hung beef or anchovies, or red-herring, or olives, and similar relishes. After eating, drink claret and water, or unsweetened lemonade, or plain water, in moderation. Dine at any convenient hour. Avoid soup, fish, or pastry, but eat plain meat of any sort except pork, rejecting the fat and skin. Spinach, haricots, or any other green vegetable, may be taken, but no potatoes, made dishes, or sweets. A jelly, or a lemon- water-ice, or a roast apple, must suffice in their place. Take claret and water at dinner, and one glass of sherry or Madeira afterward.

Between meals, as a rule, exercise must always be taken to the extent of inducing perspiration. Running, when practicable, is the best form in which to take it.

Seven or eight pounds is as much as it is prudent to lose during the three weeks. If this loss is arrived at sooner, or indeed later, the severe parts of the treatment may be gradually omitted ; but it is strongly recommended to modify the general habits in accord- ance with the principle of taking as small a quantity as possible of fat and sugar, or of substances which form fat and sugar, and sus- taining the respiratory function. By this means the weight may be gradually reduced for a few months with safety.

Small quantities of dilute alcoholic liquids taken with meds slightly increase the activity of the renewal of the nitrogenous tissues, mainly muscle ; that is to say, there is a more rapid reconstruction of those parts, as is shown by the augmented formation of urea and the sharpened appetite. Life is fuller and more complete, old flesh

842 I^IET IN EEALTH AND DISEASE.

is removed, and food appropriated as new flesh, somewhat more quickly than when no alcohol is ingested. There appears to be a temporary rise in the digestive powers of the stomach, which is prob- ably the initiative act. The nerve-functions are blunted, and a less- ened excretion of phosphorus exhibits a temporary check in the wear and renewal of the nerve-tissue. The " vital capacity " of the lungs, as indicated by the spirometer, is reduced, showing a dimin- ished oxidation of the blood.

The effect on a healthy man of taking with a meal such a quan- tity of fermented liquor as puts him at ease with himself and the world around, without untoward exhilaration, is to arrest the wear of the nervous system, especially that part employed in emotion and sensation. Just as often, then, as the zest for food is raised to its normal standard by a little wine or beer with a meal, the moderate consumer is as much really better as he feels the better for it. Where the food is as keenly enjoyed without it, the consumption of a stimulant is useless. But alcohol is not a source of force, and its direct action is an arrest of vitality.

Diet for Mental WorTc. — An expression of Btiohner's — "No think- ing without phosphorus " ^ — has gained an unhappy notoriety. Strictly speaking, it is a groundless assumption, for we cannot say that intellectual being may not exist joined to any form of matter, or quite independent of matter. We certainly do not know enough of the subject to lay down such a negative statement. And if it be held to mean that the amount of phosphorus passing through the body bears a proportion to the intensity of thought, it is simply a mis- statement. A captive lion, tiger, leopard, or hare assimilates and parts with a greater amount of phosphorus than a hard-thinking man, while a beaver, noted for its powers of contrivance, excretes so little phosphorus that chemical analysis cannot find it in the excreta. All that the physiologist is justified in asserting is that, for the mind to energize in a living body, that body must be kept \Wm^ up to a certain standard, and that for the continuous renewal of life a supply of phosphatic salts is required. The same may be said with equal justice of water, fat, nitrogen, chloride of sodium, oxygen, etc. The phosphates are wanted indeed, but wanted by pinches, whereas water is required by pailfuls. A few days without water, or a few

1 " Ohne Phosphor kein Gedanke," " Kraft und StoflE," section 122.

DIET FOR MENTAL WORK. 343

minutes without oxygen, will terminate the train of consciousness. The practical points taught us by physiology are that, for the integ- rity of thought, integrity of the nervous tissue is requisite ; and for the integrity of the nervous tissue, a due quantity of such food as contains digestible phosphatic salts.

The most perfect regimen for the healthy exercise of thought is such as would be advised for a growing boy — viz., frequent small supplies of easily-soluble mixed food, so as to furnish the greatest quantity of nutriment without overloading the stomach, or running the risk of generating morbid half-assimilated products. For it is essential to the intellectual direction of the nervous system that it should not be oppressed by physic^ impediments. The presence in the stomach or blood of imperfectly assimilated nutriment impedes its functions in close proportion to their amount, so that not only the constituents, but the mode of administering food, must come into the calculation. '•'■ Repletus 'center non studet Ubenter^^ is an old proverb, the application of which saves many a brain and many a stomach from being worked against the grain. Rest from brain- work for twenty minutes before meals, entire abstinence from it during meals, and rest again till the weight has passed from the stomach, are essential to the reconcilement of psychical exertion with bodily health.

The physiology of the action of alcohol has a very important bearing on the physical management of the mental functions. Alco- hol has the power of curbing, arresting, and suspending all the man- ifestations of the nervous system, so that we feel its influence on our thoughts sooner than on any other part of the system. Sometimes it brings them more completely under our command, controls and steadies them; more often it confuses or disconnects them, and then breaks off our power over them altogether. When a man has tired himself by intellectual exertion, a moderate quantity of alco- holic stimulant taken with food acts as an anaesthetic, stays the wear of the system which is going on, and allows the nerve-force to be turned to the due digestion of the meal. But it must be followed by rest from toil, and is in essence a part of the same treatment which includes rest — it is an artificial rest. To continue to labor, and at the same time to take an anaesthetic, is a physiological inconsistency. The drug merely blunts the useful feeling of weariness, and prevents it from acting as a warning. There is no habit more fatal to a lit- 16

344r I>IET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

erary man than that of taking stimulants between meals ; the vital powers go on wearing out more and more, without their cry for help being perceived, and in the end break down irrevocably.

As to quantity, the appetite for solid food ia the safest guide. If a better dinner or supper is eaten when it is accompanied by a cer- tain amount of fermented liquor, that is the amount most suitable ; if a worse, then an excess is committed, however little be taken.

The aim of the diet should be (to quote the words of John Mil- ton) "to preserve the body's health and hardness, to render light- some, clear, and not lumpish obedience to the mind, to the cause of religion and our country's liberty, when it shall require from hearts in sound bodies to stand and cover their stations."

It is especially when the mind of genius is overshadowed by the dark clouds of threatened insanity, of hypochondriasis, or of hysteria, that a rational mode of life preserves it. Nothing but daily exercise, temperate meals, and a punctual observance of regular hours of rest and study, could have kept burning the flickering reason in poor Cowper.

As regards the proper quantity of alcohol that may be used, the two following questions naturally occur : How is a man to know when he has had enough ? and what are the signs of too much ? The ancients used to wear dark-red or purple engraved gems, which they considered preservatives against excess, and called them afiedvaroi — "sober-stones," " amethysts." The name is now limited to the vio- let rock-crystal, but in early times it was applied to several other stones, cut in intaglio, and worn on the fingers at festive gatherings. So long as the wearer could decipher the minute works of art they bore, he had not reached excess. A more delicate test still is the. appreciation of temperature by the skin ; if a draught does not chill, if a hot room fails to produce the usual discomfort, the wise man knows he has exceeded and must stop at once. In short, the safest rule is that, when there is a consciousness of any psychical effect at all beyond that of satisfaction at the relief of bodily weariness — such a satisfaction as is felt on taking a good meal by a vigorous person — then the limits of moderation have been attained. On ordinary occasions of daily life, and " for the stomach's sake," no more should be taken. Each fresh drop is a step downward to the evil results of alcohol. But to the practiser of daily temperance, festive occasions are safe and may be beneficial. A man may, from time to

DIET OF MOTHERS. 345

time, keep up withont harm the above-mentioned sense of satisfac- tion by good and digestible wine in good company, without fear of getting drunk or failure of health, if he makes it a law to himself to stop as soon as he experiences any hurry of ideas or indistinctness of the senses.

Diet of Mothers. — During pregnancy as much care should be taken not to get too fat as is taken by an athlete training for a race. The rules for modified training explained above will afford hints on the subject, but it is not desirable to carry the process so far.

There is a temptation at this time to increase the usual allowance of stimulant; alcohol is taken between meals to overcome the nausea and depression incident to the state of body. And by this mistaken expedient the nausea gradually becomes dyspeptic vomiting. On leaving it off, the sickness ceases. A mother should also remember that nearly all the alcohol she consumes mixes with her blood, which now is one with the blood of the foetus.

During lactation the most suitable drink for a mother is cow's milk, fresh and unskimmed. If it turns sour on the stomach, lime- water mixed with it not only corrects the acescence, but also supplies a valuable aid to the growing bones of the infant. In her solid diet- ary, also, milk may be fairly taken as the type of a due admixture of alimentary principles, because it is not individual growth or the pro- duction of muscular force, but the secretion of milk, that is the ob- ject of the selection of diet.

Supposing the full diet to consist of three pounds of solid food, that will require six pints extra of uncombined aqueous fluid to make it as fluid as milk ; and, to combine the nitrogenous and carbonaceous constituents in due proportion, the three pounds of solid food should consist of

\A\ ounces of meat. 13 ounces of fat, butter, and sugar. 20 ounces of farinaceous food and vegetables. i ounce of salt, lime, etc.

At first, from the exhaustion consequent on childbed, from the want of exercise and of fresh air, the appetite turns against meat. Let then milk, especially boiled milk, with arrow-root or the like, chicken-broth, or egg-custards, fill up the deficiency.

Any increase in the habitual allowance of alcohol is as unfitting to this period of life as during pregnancy.

346 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

Diet of Old Age. — It is a remark extant from the rough thnes, when famine was more frequent than now, that the older a human being is the better deficiency of food is borne. Old men suffer least from abstinence,^ and benefit therefore most from temperance in eat- ing. Everybody who has passed the age of fifty, or thereabouts, with a fairly unimpaired constitution, will act wisely in diminishing his daily quantity of solid food. There is less demand for the materials of growth, and consequently animal food should bear a smaller pro- portion than heretofore to vegetable, and it is mainly in that ingredi- ent of the diet that reduction should be eflfected. Neglect of this rule in declining years is often punished by gout — a disease attribu- table to excess of nitrogenous aliment, and for this reason common to elderly men.

In the autumn of life, the advantages derived from fermented liquor are more advantageous, and the injuries it can inflict less in- jurious, to the body than in youth. The effect of alcohol is to check the activity of destructive assimilation, to arrest that rapid flux of the substance of the frame which, in healthy youth, can hardly be excessive, but which, in old age, exhausts the vital force. Loss of appetite is a frequent and a serious symptom in old age. It usually arises from deficient formation of gastric juice, which, in common with other secretions, diminishes with years. It is best treated phys- iologically rather than by drugs.

Diet in SicJcness.—Jn all that has gone before, health has been pre- supposed. The modifications necessitated by sickness are of three kinds: 1. The avoidance of such articles of consumption as would increase the disease under the special circumstances, although ordi- narily wholesome ; 2. The maintenance of the functions or parts of the frame which remain normal ; 3. The administration, for a special curative purpose, of pecuHar food which would not be recommended for general use.

In all fevers which are classed together as being apparently due to a poison multiplying itself in the blood, the art of diet consists in giving an almost continuous supply of liquid nutriment, holding very soluble aliments in a dilute form. There is nothing so digestible as water, and we take advantage of this high digestibility to get what- ever it can dissolve digested along with it. For the first three or

* Hippocrates, Aphorism xiii.

DIET IN FEVER. 347

even four days, patients, previously strong, should have only farina- ceous food, well boiled and cooled to the temperature of the body. Evidence has been already quoted of the power which oatmeal-gruel possesses of sustaining force under the trying circumstances of ex- cessive toil. Now, fever closely resembles muscular effort in its arrest of the digestive functions, at the same moment that it makes an ur- gent demand for nutriment. With ultra-Egyptian rigor, while straw is withheld, "the tale of the bricks is doubled," and we know by the quantity of urea and phosphates in the urine, and by the foecal excre- tion, that the muscles and nerves of the bed-ridden sufferer are melt- ing away as fast as if he were scaling the Alps with nothing to eat. It is quite reasonable to transfer the experiences derived from health to sickness, and to feel satisfied that we are not wasting precious op- portunities when we are giving fever-patients such a time-honored diet as oatmeal-gruel, care being taken that it is thoroughly well boiled. After three days, the tissues are beginning to suffer, and it is advisable to add chicken-broth, meat- jelly, and strong soup. Let that be supplied which the emaciation shows to be passing away — nitrogenous tissue.

The administration of alcohol is to be regulated partly by the temperature and partly by the condition of the nervous system. Usu- ally, if the heat of the blood (as taken at the axilla) is above 103°, and always if it is above 105°, there is a necessity for it. Again, if there is great prostration of strength, or tremor of the hands, or quivering in the voice and respiration, if there is low muttering de- lirium when the patient is left quiet, it is required.

Green-sicMess, or anaemia, is characterized by the rapid disappear- ance of the red particles which float in the blood. To what a strange extent this goes may be seen by looking at the insides of the lips, which naturally hold such a quantity of the fluid as to be quite scar- let, but which now are pale like those of a corpse. It is calculated that the loss of material in marked cases of green-sickness may amount to three pounds of this important constituent of the blood.* Yet it is capable of complete renewal by diet. If by dint of reme- dies, notably iron, the appetite can be so regulated as to enjoy meat in excess of the immediate wants of the body, that meat is converted into hssmatine, and the healthy hue returns to the cheeks as quickly

» Chambers's " Lectures," chiefly Clinical, lect. 11.

348 DIET IX HEALTH AND DISEASE.

as it left it. Wine is useful at meals on account of the stimulus it gives to the appetite; it is injurious between meals by spoil- ing it.

^ Acute rheumatism and acute gout are best treated on an opposite principle. A nutrient nitrogenous diet, which the patient assimilates only too readily, retards recovery, and will even bring on a relapse during convalescence. If meat in any form, solid or liquid, be eaten, it seems to turn to acid, which is already in excess in the blood. The power of fully converting it into living flesh is wanting; and, until this power is regained, a semi-conversion into an oi-ganic acid takes place. The redder and more muscular the meat is, the more it dis-

Ghronic gout is indubitably due to good cheer indulged in either by the sufferer or his ancestors. When a man, day after day, swal- lows more nitrogenous food than is wanted for the repair of his tis- sues, the following results may be expected, with variations depend- ent upon his original constitution : If the digestive solvents are weak and scanty, the excess passes through the canal in an undigested state, and is partially decomposed there. Thereon ensue all sorts of abdominal derangements, which, however, have the advantage of getting rid of the offending matters. If, on the other hand, the stomach secretes vigorously on being stimulated, then, indeed, the excess is digested and absorbed, and is subject to the future changes consequent on assimilation. An active out-of-door life neutralizes this in some measure by augmenting oxidation ; much of the albumen goes to form glycogen, and acts as a fuel for the maintenance of mus- cular force. The balance is wasted in an unexplained way, and does not necessarily injure a hardy frame. The violent muscular exertion and high training needful for oxidation being inconsistent with the habits of intellectual society, a man in the prime of life who puts too much meat into a good stomach habitually retains in his blood an ex- cess of uric acid, into which the nitrogenous waste converts itself. Fric acid in the blood has been distinctly traced as the essence of gout. Perhaps this imaginary first offender develops the full con- sequences; and that is the best thing that can happen, inducing greater carefulness in future.

These views can suggest but one line of preventive treatment: The children of gouty families should be brought up to a life of strict abstemiousness and muscular activity. From the earliest years vege-

REGIMEN IN GOUTY CONDITIONS. 349

tables and "meagre" soups should form a considerable portion of their dietary.

Gouty adults require meat but once in twenty-four hours. The bill of fare should be varied from day to day, but as simple as pos- sible at each meal. Rich sauces are to be eschewed, and a lemon, an infusion of herbs and pepper, bread-sauce, or a puree of vegetables, adopted in their place. Sugar, at the end of meals, generates an ex- cess of organic acid, and it is to be avoided. If cheese is eaten, it should be new, and is best toasted and creamed.

Dilute alkaline waters containing soda, such as ApoUinaris or the weaker Vichy, are a rational drink during meals ; but it is probably best to keep to pure water. Those who live idle lives require no al- cohol, and it should not be an habitual accompaniment to meals.

Red gravel is evidence of a constitution so closely allied to gout, that nothing need be said further about its appropriate regimen.

In BrighVs disease of the kidneys, in contracted liver^ and, in short, in all degenerative lesions, alcohol has a baneful influence. Its action upon the tissues is directly the same as theirs. Moreover, if we agree with its latest expositor, Dr. Sibson, that Bright's disease is closely associated with increased arterial tension, alcohol (whose effect is also to increase tension) must be peculiarly poisonous. *

For the cure of these diseases, independent of the nutrition of the rest of the body, a milk diet has been proposed, and it seems to offer a fair prospect, if the patients can be persuaded to persist in it. How safely a milk diet may be adopted in middle life is shown by the ex- ample of Dr. Cheyne, a Bath physician of the last century, who, at about fifty-five, restricted himself entirely to milk and biscuits, and yet was able to fulfill the duties of his laborious profession. He took at first of the former six pints, of the latter twelve ounces; but he shortly diminished the quantity to half, and, after sixteen years' ex- perience, found it fully sufficient, and indeed capable of further re- duction in quantity.^

WeaJc and slow digestion is a condition which enforces an especial care for meat and drink. The cause of the imperfection lies in a deficiency in the supply of nerve-power to the stomach, so that it both secretes its solvent fluid and also rotates its contents too slowly;

1 Sibson's " Harveian Lectures," British Medical Journal, February 10, 1877.

2 "The Natural Method of Curing Diseases of the Body," etc., by George Cheyne, M.D.,1742.

350 I^IET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

and the more it is loaded the slower it goes. Of the medicinal means of curing such a state, this is not the place to speak ; but none of them will avail without the aid of a rational dietary. Time must be given to the oppressed organ wherein to empty itself of every com- plete meal, and such a period of rest given as will allow of the re- covery of force ; or, if the meals are frequent, they must be very sparing. The observations of Busch (Virchow's "Archiv," xiv.) show that a period of five hours elapses in the healthy subject be- fore a fully filled stomach can empty itself, and in the dyspeptic the process is still longer. Whenever, therefore, the organ is laaded as healthy people rightly load it, a man should allow at lea&t seven or eight hours to elapse before sitting down to another meal, and he must never eat till the need for food is announced by appetite. Per- haps a more generally applicable and easier-obeyed law is not to make full meals at all, but to stop short at the feehng of repletion, and, when that has gone ofi", again to take in the supply allowed by circumstances. Three moderate meals are usually sufBcient to keep up the strength.

Meat should be once cooked. Mutton, feathered fowl, venison, lamb, and beef are digestible in the order they here are placed in. The more difiicult dishes should have the longest time allowed ta them. Of the farinaceous articles of diet, bread and biscuits are the most easily penetrated by the gastric juices, and all their prep- arations are safe. The best bread is the " aerated," which is free from decomposing yeast. Macaroni is good if soaked till quite ma- cerated. Pastry is difiicult of solution. Vegetables are very neces- sary; cauliflowers, Jerusalem artichokes, beet-root, French beans, soft peas, stewed celery, turnip-tops, spinach, are the most readily disposed of.

When the usual mixture of meat and vegetables is found to in- duce flatulence, it is a good expedient to eat vegetables only at one meal and meat and bread only at another. The principle on which this plan is based is that starchy food is dissolved mainly by the al- kaline saliva, whereas meat is dissolved by the acid gastric juice. In a vigorous person both are copious enough to render immaterial their mutual neutralization ; but when they are scanty, their separate employment is a physiological economy.

Consumption is a disease whose treatment is almost wholly die- tetic. The children of a mother whose pedigree exhibits proof of a

DIETETICS IN CONSUMPTION. 351

consumptive tendency may with propriety be put to a healthy wet- nurse immediately on birth, and, on being weaned, be fed from a Channel Island cow. The milk should be boiled and then cooled down to tepidity. A small teaspoonful of " saccharated solution of lime " may be advantageously added to each quart of milk when the coming teeth require the elements of their nutrition to be added to the diet. The rules already given for the healthy management of the young should be adhered to with unusual strictness, and any departure from them should be made only to provide for some pecul- iar necessity of the case according to medical advice.

In cases of consumption it is difficult to say that drugs are use- less, but certainly those that come nearest to aliments have most evidence in their favor, such as iron, cod-liver oil, and the phos- phates of lime. Tiieir effect on th^ appetite must be sedulously watched, and the end must not be sacrificed to the means ; that is to say, if they spoil the appetite, they must be left off. The reason for administering oil is to afford an easily assimilated basis of re- newed organic growth, to take the place of the abnormal tendency to form tubercular matter. If anything prevents its easy assimila- tion it is obviously useless. The use of climate in the treatment of phthisis may be tested by its dietetic action ; if it improves the ap- petite it is doing good ; if it injures the appetite it is doing harm.

In chronic jaundice the function of the liver is best restored by the free use of green vegetables at all meals.

Diabetes^ when it has once assumed a chronic form, is never really cured, but life may be much prolonged by the employment of a diet from which sugar and starch are excluded as far as practi- cable, and the patient nourished on animal food. The best fare for diabetic patients is that given by Prof. Bouchardat in his work " Du Diabete sucr6e," Paris, 1852.

In functional nervous diseases^ such as hysteria and hypochon- driasis, the appetite, muscular elasticity, and mental powers will often be observed to be deficient in the early part of the day, and to recover their tone in the evening. At this latter time, therefore, it is advisable to make the principal meal.

Scurvy is a notable example of a disease of which, more than any other, the prevention depends on the adoption of a suitable diet. Its symptoms so far resemble those of general starvation that, from the earliest time of its appearance in history, it has been sus-

352 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

pected that it is due to a dietary defective in some necessary ingre- dient ; and practical observation soon showed that this was fresh vegetables. It was found on every long voyage that the crew suffered from scurvy in proportion to the length of time they were restricted to dry food, and that they recovered rapidly as soon as they got access to a supply of succulent plants. This requisite for health is obviously the most difficult of all things to procure aboard ship, and eiforts were made to find a substitute capable of marine transport. From the time of Hawkins ^ (1593) downward the opinion has been expressed, by all the most intelligent travelers, that a substitute is to be found in the juice of fruits of the orange tribe, such as oranges, lemons, etc. But in its natural state this is expensive and trouble- some to carry, so that skippers and owners for a couple of centu- ries found it expedient to be skeptical. The pictures of scurvy as it appeared during the eighteenth century are horrible in the extreme. But the statute of 1795, passed through the exertions of Captain Cook and Sir Gilbert Blane, has enforced the carrying of lime-juice. This invaluable preventive has shown its influence all the more de- cidedly by the disease still appearing occasionally under strong pro- moting circumstances, and to a certain extent in spite of the anti- dote ; but it is so modified as to be usually more of the nature of a warning or demonstration than of a serious invasion. Some, indeed, have questioned and even denied altogether the blessings derived from the enforced use of lime-juice. But they make a very scanty show wh*en weighed with those whom they undertake to oppose; and it is superfluous here to enter into the arguments and results of observation constituting the ponderous " Report of the Committee appointed by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to inquire into the Causes of the Outbreak of Scurvy in the Eecent Arctic Ex- pedition, etc., and presented to both Houses of Parliament, May 7, 1877," which seems to settle forever the preventive powers against scurvy of the use of lime-juice.

The committee alluded to was appointed in consequence of one of those exceptional outbreaks of scurvy induced by exceptional cir- cumstances. The ships sent on the exploring expedition of 1875 were amply provided with lime-juice, and with printed expositions of its value. During the voyage out and in the long inaction of the

- Sir Rd. Hawkinses " Voyage," edited by Hakluyt Society, page 60.

INFLUENCE OF FOOD IN SCURVY. 353

winter, the men's health was so well preserved by general attention to hygiene that no cases of even mild scurvy were detected ; the pallor and languor and depression of spirits of some among the sailors were attributed to the want of sunlight for 142 days, and it was expected that a few days' sledge traveling in the open air would reinvigorate them. There was plenty of lime-juice aboard ; but it seems that it is not the custom to add to the weight of provisions which polar sledging-parties have to propel, by including the pre- servative among them. Sir George Nares, the commander of the expedition, cites the names of 10 admirals, 10 doctors, and 15' cap- tains, who have conducted land explorations in this fashion without it ; and they returned unscathed to any serious extent. But on this recent occasion the crews seem to have been peculiarly predisposed to illnesses of scorbutic nature by the more than ordinary scarcity of fresh meat in their dietary, arising out of the deficiency of game in the extremely high latitude where they wintered. With few exceptions the whole of the crews of the Alert and the Discovery were em- ployed in sledging, and the consequence was, that of the 122 officers and men 59 were more or less incapacitated by scurvy, and four died.

The real reason for not carrying lime-juice in such expeditions is its cumbersomeness. Including bottles, though in truth they are not wanted in a hard frost, it may be said that one pound a week for each man would have to be added to the baggage * — a serious item, no doubt. And with a view of remedying the inconvenience, medi- cal men have long sought to discover to what constituent of the com- plicated mixture afforded by Nature it is that it owes its efficacy. In a contribution to the Medico- Chirurgical Review for 1848, Dr. Parkes examined exhaustively the evidence concerning the various deficien- cies in ship-food as compared with fresh food, which might be filled up by one or other of the components of lime-juice ; and by exclu- sion he is led to the conclusion that the cause of scurvy is to be found in deficiency of salts whose acids form carbonates in the sys- tem, viz., citric, tartaric, acetic, lactic, and malic acids.

Though not so good as when in their natural form, because less digestible and pleasant, yet a supply of citrates, tartrates, lactates, and malates of potash might be packed in small bulk, and, under

* In merchant-ships lime-juice is used during polar service in a ration of an onnoe daily. See " Report " above cited. But the opinions of the officers examined seem to agree that the quantity is not sufficient, and adyiae half as much again, or more.

354: DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

cjircumstances where weight is of importance, might take the place of lime-juice. Or bolo-lozenges might be made of lime-juice freed from its aqueous portion and preserved with sugar. Three or four of these a day might be easily swallowed without stopping work.

Before leaving the subject of maritime scurvy, it may be sug- gested how useful it would be if those who sail in desolate regions were to carry seeds of antiscorbutic vegetables, which, strewed broad- cast in uninhabited places, would form a flora capable of saving the lives of many a wrecked or weather-bound crew.

Scurvy, as landsmen see it in time of peace, amounts to little more than ansemia, with a softening and bleeding condition of the gums ; but it indicates the use of exactly the same preventives and remedies as the more severe complaint.

Starvation is a disease which it is a platitude to say may be pre- vented by diet ; nevertheless there are connected with it a few pecul- iarities of scientific and practical interest which may not be unwor- thy of notice. "Inedia," as it is called in the nomenclature of diseases by the London College of Physicians, is of two kinds, aris- ing from want of food and from want of water.

When entirely deprived of nutriment the human body is capable of supporting life under ordinary circumstances for little more than a week. In the spring of 1869 this was tried on the person of a *' fasting girl " in South Wales. The parents made a show of their child, decking her out like a bride on a bed,, and asserting that she had eaten no food f6r two years. Some reckless enthusiasts for truth set four trustworthy hospital nurses to watch her ; th^ Celtic obstinacy of the parents was roused, and in defense of their impost- ure they allowed death to take place in eight days. Their trial and conviction for manslaughter may be found in the daily periodicals of the date; but, strange to say, the experimental physiologists and nurses escaped scot-free. There is no doubt that in this instance the unnatural quietude, the grave-like silence, and the dim religious light in which the victim was kept, contributed to defer death.

One thing which remarkably prolongs life is a supply of water. Dogs furnished with as much as they wished to drink were found by M. Chossat (" Sur I'Inanition," Paris, 1843) to live three times a& long as those who were deprived of solids and liquids at the same time. Even wetting the skin with sea- water has been found useful by shipwrecked sailors. Four men and a boy of fourteen, who got

PROLONGING LIFE IN STARVATION. 355

shut in Tynewydd mine, near Forth, in South Wales, in the winter of 1876-77, for ten days without food, were not only alive when released, hut several of them were ahle to walk, and all subsequently recovered. The thorough saturation of the narrow space with aque- ous vapor, and the presence of drain- water in the cutting, were probably their chief preservatives, assisted by the high, even tem- perature always found in the deeper headings of coal-mines, and by the enormous compression of the confined air. This, doubtless, pre- vented evaporation, and retarded vital processes dependent upon oxidation. The accumulation of carbonic acid in the breathed air would also have a similar arrestive power over destructive assimila- tion. These prisoners do not seem to have felt any of the severer pangs of hunger, for they were not tempted to eat their candles^ With the instinctive feeling that darkness adds a horror to death, they preferred to use them for light.

It is a paradoxical fact that the supply of the stomach even from the substance of the starving individual's body should tend to pro- long life. In April, 1874, a case was recorded of exposure in an open boat for thirty-two days of three men and two boys, with only ten days' provisions, exclusive of old boots and jelly-fish. They had a fight in their delirium, and one was severely wounded. As the blood gushed out he lapped it up ; and instead of suffering the fatal weak- ness which might have been expected from the hemorrhage, he seems to have done well. Experiments have been performed by a French physiologist, M. Anselmier ("Archives G6n. de Medecine," 1860, vol. i., page 169), with the object of trying to preserve the lives of dogs by what he calls " artificial autophagy." He fed them on the blood taken from their own veins daily, depriving them of all other food, and he found that the fatal cooling incident to starvation was thus postponed and existence prolonged. Life lasted till the emacia- tion had proceeded to six-tenths of the animal's weight, as in Chos- sat's experiments, extending to the fourteenth day, instead of ending on the tenth day, as was the case with other dogs which were not bled.

These instances of the application of the art of dietetics to the treatment of disease are suflBcient to show the principles which should be kept in sight. The pathology of the ailment should be considered first, then its bearing upon the digestive organs, and last- ly the bearing of the digestive organs upon it.

356 I>IET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

And before quitting the subject of health as affected by diet, the common- sense hint may be given to those who are in good sanitary condition, that they cannot do better than let well alone. The most trustworthy security for future health is present health, and there is some risk of overthrowing Nature's work by overcaring.

Pleasuee as an Object of Dietetics.

The social importance of gratifying the palate has certainly never been denied in practice by any of the human race. Feasting has been adopted from the earliest times as the most natural expression of joy, and the readiest means of creating joy. If ascetics have seemed to put the pleasure away from them, they have done so in the hope of purchasing by their sacrifice something greater and nobler, and have thus tacitly conceded, if not exaggerated, its real value. Experience shows that its indulgence, unregulated by the laws which govern our progress in civilization, leads to unutterable degradation and meanness, brutalizes the mind, and deadens its per- ception of the repulsiveness of vice and crime. But that is no cause why this powerful motive power, governed by right reason, should not be made subservient to the highest purposes.

The times of meals must be regulated with a regard to the dis- posal of the remainder of the day, whether that depends on choice or on necessity. Violent exertion of either mind or body retards digestion ; and, therefore, when this is practised, food is not called for so soon as on a day of rest. The heaviest meal should be post- poned till the day's work is done ; it is then that social home joys give the requisite repose to the body and mind. Light eaters may dine as late as they please, but those of larger appetite should lengthen the interval between their repast and bedtime. After the night's sleep and the long fast which has emptied the digestive canal of its nutritive contents, a breakfast should be taken before any of the real business of life be begun. It is no proof of health or vigor to forego it without inconvenience ; but it is a proof of health and vigor to be able to lay in then a solid foundation for the day's labor. Not less than four and not more than six hours should elapse before the store is again replenished. A light, farinaceous lunch, with vegetables and fruit, may be made most appetizing, and is followed by a cheerful afternoon, whereas a ponderous meat and wine meal entails heaviness of spirit.

ECONOMICAL DIETETICS. 357

Diet in Relation to Economy.

Due Proportion of Animal and Vegetable Food. — It has been taken for granted thus far that the mixed fare, which has met the approval of so many generations of men, is that which is most in accordance with reason. But there are physiologists who argue that our teeth resemble those of the vegetable-feeding apes more than those of any other class of animal, and that, therefore, our most appropriate food must be of the fruits of the earth. ^ And if we were devoid of the intelligence which enables us to fit food for digestion by cookery, it is probable no diet would suit us better. But our reason must not be left out of account, and it is surely quite as natural for a man to cook and eat everything that contains in a convenient form starch, fat, albumen, fibre, and phosphorus, as it is for a monkey to eat nuts or an ox grass. The human race is natu- rally omnivorous.

Moreover, man is able not only to develop his highest faculties and perform all his duties on any form of digestive aliment, but he is able also very much to diminish the requisite quantities by a due admixture. The diet which supplies the demand most accurately will be the most economical in the highest sense ; and that this diet is a mixed one can be shown by the following method of calculation : We can measure by experiment the ultimate elements of all that is thrown off from the body as the result of vital decomposition — the ashes, the smoke, and the gases, which the fire of life produces; and thus we can lay down a rule for the minimum quantity of those elements which the daily food must contain to keep up the standard weight. If the diet be such as to make it necessary to eat too much of one element in order to secure a sufficient amount of another, there is a waste, and the digestive viscera are burdened with a use- less load. But there is no single article procurable for the food of the adult population which presents the exact proportion of elements required by an adult, and therefore no single article alone can supply human wants without waste.

As an example, apply this reckoning to the elements carbon and nitrogen, which constitute the main bulk of solids in our food and in our bodies. Suppose a gang of 100 healthy prisoners to excrete, in

1 Milne-Edwards, " Cours de Physiologie," volume vi., page 198.

358 I>IET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

the shape of breathed air and evacuations, 71|- pounds of carbon and 4^ pounds of nitrogen (which is pretty nearly the actual amount of those elements in the dried solids of the secreta, as estimated by cur- rent physiological works). Both nitrogen and carbon to that extent must of course be supplied in the food. Now, if you fed them on bread only, there would be wanted daily at least 380 pounds of it to sustain them alive long, for it takes that weight to yield the 4^ pounds of nitrogen daily excreted ; while in the 380 pounds of bread there are 128|^ pounds of carbon, which is 57 pounds above the needful quantity of that substance.^

If, on the other hand, the bread were replaced by a purely ani- mal diet, there would have to be found 354 pounds of lean meat in order to give the 71^ pounds of carbon ; and thus there would be wasted 105 pounds of nitrogen contained in the meat, over and above the 4*- pounds really required to prevent emaciation.'*

In the first case, each man would be eating about 4 pounds of bread, in the second, 3^ pounds of meat, per diem. If he ate less, he would lose his strength. The first would carry about with him a quantity of starch, and the last a quantity of albuminous matter, not wanted for nutrition, and would burden the system with a useless mass very liable to decompose and become noxious.

When work is undertaken, much more is actually wanted. Ac- cording to Mr. Yizetelly, the laborer in a Spanish vineyard consumes daily between 8 and 9 pounds of vegetable food, consisting of bread, onion-porridge, and grapes.^ And when animal food alone is taken, as in the case of the Esquimaux, 20 pounds of it a day is the usual allowance.

Now, if a mixed dietary be adopted for the gang of 100 prisoners before mentioned, 200 pounds of farinaceous food, with 56 pounds of animal muscle, would fulfill the requirements of the case ; 2 pounds

1 Dr. Letheby's analysis gives 8.1 per cent, of nitrogenous naatter to bread (" Lectures on Food," page 6). Of this one-seventh is nitrogen, Boussingaulfs analysis of gluten giving 14.60 per cent. (" Annales de Chim. et Phys.," Ixiii., 229). M. Payen makes the propor- tion of nitrogen to carbon in bread as 1 to 30.

^ The proportion of nitrogen to carbon in albumen is as 1 to 3^ (15.5 to 53.5 by Mulder's analysis, quoted in Lehmann, " Phys. Chemie," i., 343). In red meat there is 74 per cent ofwater(ditto, iii.", 96).

3 "Facts about Sherry," chapter 1., 1876, and Sir John Eoss''8 '•Second Voyage for the Discovery of the Northwest Passage," page 418.

PHYSIOLOGICAL BALANCE OF FOOD AND WORK. 359

of bread and a little more than ^ pound of meat a head would be enough, under ordinary circumstances, for each man's daily food.

200 pounds of bread contains ' 60 ot carbon, 2 of nitrogen.

60 pounds of meat (including 12^ pounds of fat on it) contains.l2 ^ " 2^ " "

Balance of Food and Work. — The most important modification to be made in the above estimate arises from the differences of work demanded. Men may exist in inaction on a scale of food-supply which is followed by death from starvation when they are put to hard labor. It is of importance, therefore, to have some measure of the effects of physical exertion. And here mechanical science has contributed to physiology a precision rarely attainable in our dealings with social economy. Mr. Joule, of Manchester, analyzed, about thirty years ago, the relation which the heat, used as a source of power in machinery^ bore to the force of motion thus made active. He showed that raising the temperature of 1 pound of water 1° Fahr. was equivalent to raising 772 pounds to the height of 1 foot ; and conversely, that the fall of 772 pounds might be so applied as to heat 1 pound of water 1° Fahr. Thus, the mechanical work repre- sented in lifting 772 pounds 1 foot, or 1 pound 772 feet, forms the "dynamic equivalent," the measure of the possible strength of 1° of temperature as marked by the thermometer in 1 pound of water. Physiologists seized eagerly on the opportunity which Joule's dem- onstration seemed to afford them of estimating in actual numerals the relation of living bodies to the work they hav« to do. So much earth raised on an embankment represents so much heat developed in the machinery, be it living or dead. The fully digested food, con- verted through several stages into gaseous, liquid, and solid excre- tory matters, produces by its chemical changes a definite amount of heat, of which a definite amount escapes, and a definite amount is employed in working the involuntary machinery of the body, and the rest is available for conversion at will into voluntary muscular actions.

It may be reckoned that the daily expenditure of force in work- ing the machinery of the body — in raising the diaphragm about 15 times and contracting the heart about 60 times a minute, in con- tinuously rolling the wave of the intestinal canal, and in various other involuntary movements, without anything to be fairly called

360 DIET m HEALTH AND DISEASE.

work — it may be reckoned that the expenditure of force in doing this is equal to that which would raise a man of 10 stone 10,000 feet.

There are several reasons for believing that, in assigning their physiological functions to the several sorts of food, nearly all the business of begetting force should be ascribed to the solid hydro- carbons, starch and oil, by their conversion into carbonic acid and water, Just as there are good grounds for thinking that it is the con- version of the solid hydrocarbon of coal into the same substances which drives a locomotive. To the nitrogenous aliments seems al- lotted primarily the task of continuously replacing the wear and tear of the nitrogenous tissues, while any excess of them assists the starch and oil in keeping up the animal heat.

One of the most cogent of the reasons for this view is that the chief nitrogenous excretion, the urea, is not increased in amount in proportion to the work done, as shown by the experiments of Messrs. Fink and Wiscelenus; whereas the excretion of carbonic acid in a decided manner follows the amount of muscular exertion. Now, it is very clear that, if the supply of power to do work depended on the decomposition and renewal of the muscles by flesh food, the urea must be exactly proportioned to the exertion, which is not the case.

To give an example of the mode of working out a problem by this theory: Prof. Frankland, in a series of experiments made in 1866 at the Royal Institution, and published in the London Philosophical Magazine, vol. xxxii., p. 182, ascertains with the "calorimeter" (which reckons the amount of heat evolved as a thermometer does its degree) the quantity of energy or force evolved under the form of heat during the oxidation of a given weight of alimentary substance. It has been explained that heat and mechanical work, being con- vertible into one another, bear a constant proportion to one another ; so that a definite production of so much heat invariably represents the potentiality of so much motion, used or wasted according to circum- stances. From the reading of the calorimeter, therefore, may be calculated how many extra pounds ought to be raised a foot high by a man who has eaten an extra pound of the food in question; how many steps a foot high he ought to raise a weight of ten stone (say himself) before he has worked out the value of his victuals. Prof. Frankland has thus estimated the comparative value of foods as bases of muscular exertion, and he has made out a table of the weight and

DIETETIC EQUIVALENTS.

361

cost of various articles that would require to be consumed daily to enable a man to support life, the equivalent of which has been al- ready reckoned as the muscular force in action which would raise a man of 10 stone 10,000 feet.

NAME 07 FOOD.

Cheshire cheese

Potatoes

' Apples

Oatmeal

Flour

Peameal

Ground rice

Arrow-root

Bread

Lean beef

Lean veal

Lean ham (boiled)

Mackerel

Whiting

White of egg

Hard-boiled egg

Isinglass

Milk

Carrots

Cabbage

Cocoa-nibs

Butter

Beef fat

Cod-liver oil

Lump sugar

Commercial grape sugar Bass's pale ale (bottled) . Guinness's stout

Weight in Poiinds required.

1.156

5.068 7.815 1.281 1.311 1.335 1.841 1.287 2.345 3.532 4.300 8.001 8.124 6.369 8.745 2.209 1.377 8.021 9.685 12.020 0.735 0.693 0.555 0.553 1.505 1.537

9 bottlea.

6} bottles.

Price p«i	Pound.	Cost.
8.	d.	«. d.
0 10	0 Hi
0	1	0 5i
0	H	0 Hi
0		0 Si
0	2J	0 8f
0	81	0 4i
0	4	0 H
1	0	1 Si
0	2	0 4i
1	0	8 6t
1	0	4 H
1	6	4 6
0	8	2 1
1	4	9 4
0	6	4 4*
0	6*	1 H
16	0	22 Oi
0	2*	1 8
0	li	1 2*
0	1	1 Oi
1	6	1 n
1	6	1 0*
0 10	0 bi
8	6	llli
0	6	0 9
0	3*	0 6i
0 10	7 6
0 10	5 71

After the supply of sufficient albuminoid matters in the food, to provide for the necessary renewal of the tissues, the best materials for the production of internal and external work are non-nitrogenous matters, such as oil, fat, sugar, starch, gum, etc. When the work is increased, not so much extra meat as vegetable food, or its dietetic equivalent, fat, is demanded.

In comparing the cost of a daily sufficiency of the various foods to produce the required force, we must not forget the inconveniences which many of them entail. These inconveniences must be added to the cost. For example, suppose a man to have been living upon po- tatoes only, just supporting life with 5 pounds a day, and then to get work which enabled him and required him to take a double supply of non-nitrogenous food, he would act unwisely if he were to swal-

362 I^IET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

low it in the form of 12 pounds of cabbage. He would be knocked up by the sheer labor of carrying 12 pounds extra in a vessel so ill- adapted to. sustain heavy loads as the stomach. A similar objection would lie against milk or veal or apples, however cheap accident might make them; and a more serious objection still would hold against nine bottles of ale, or seven of stout. On the other hand, the over-concentration of cheese, beef dripping, and lump sugar, makes them nauseous when in large quantity or monotonously persisted in, though when introduced as a variety they are appetizing and digesti- ble. There is no saving in using that against which the stomach is set, or which the absorbents refuse to assimilate.

Eeverting to the illustration of the gang of 100 prisoners, and supposing it were requisite to put them on hard labor equivalent to half " Frahkland's unit " of 10 stone raised 10,000 feet — such, for in- stance, as carrying up ladders, altogether 1^ mile high, 3 tons of stone daily— calculation would show that to add this amount of labor to the outgoings caused by the functioning of physiological life would involve the addition to their spare diet of at least 117 pounds of bread, or of 58 pounds of bread with 44 pounds of lean meat and 63 pounds of potatoes. The slightest imperfection or indigestion of any of this would cause a loss of bodily weight, and cases of illness would be culpably frequent. Were a draught of milk, or a cup of cocoa and sugar, or some oatmeal porridge and treacle, or even a little dripping or butter or bacon, given, the danger would probably be averted.

The most conspicuous fault in the dietary of the working classes is want of variety. Many of the articles which combine ample nutri- tiousness with small cost are habitually neglected, because, when used exclusively, they are disagreeable and unwholesome. From never being eaten they become absolutely unknown. There are many sorts of cheap beans, vetches, and peas, unheard of except at gentlemen's tables, of which a complete meal may be made, or which may sup- port the dish of meat; while beet- root, cresses, kail, carrots, and other plants easily grown, are left unused.

Quantity of Food required. — The calculations of Dr. PI ay fair " on the food of man in relation to his useful work " ^ enable us, by another route, to arrive at an estimate of what amount of solid

» Lectures delivered at the Koyal Institution, London, April 28, 1865.

QUANTITY OF FOOD REQUIRED. 3^3

victuals is required by an adult living by bodily labor to preserve his health under various circumstances. The circumstances which chiefly affect the question can be classified thus: (1) bare existence; (2) moderate exercise ; (3) active work ; and (4) hard work.

1. The first is calculated from the mean of sundry prison dietaries, of the convalescents' diet at hospitals, that of London needlewomen, and of that supplied during the Lancashire cotton famine, as reported by Mr. Simon. The result is that, in a condition of low health, with- out activity, 2J ounces of nitrogenous food, 1 ounce of fat, 12 ounces of starch, and J of an ounce of mineral matters a day are necessary. The amount of carbon in this is equal to 7.44 ounces. In other words, a man's life will be shortened or burdened by disease in the future, or he will die of gradual starvation, unless his provision for a week is equivalent to three pounds of meat with one pound of fat on it, or with the same quantity of butter or lard, two quartern loaves of bread, and about an ounce of salt and other condiments. If he cannot get meat, he must supply its place with at least two extra quartern loaves, or about a stone and a half of potatoes, or between five and six pounds of oatmeal, unless he is, indeed, so fortunate as to be able to get skim milk, of which five pints a week will replace the meat.

A person reduced to bare existence diet can undertake no habitual toil, mental or bodily, under the penalty of breaking down.

" Bare existence " diet is that which requires to be estimated for administration to certain classes of the community who have a claim on their fellow-countrymen that their lives and health shall be pre- served in statu quo, but nothing further. Such are prisoners, pau- pers, or the members of a temporarily famine-stricken community.

It would be obviously unjust to apply the same scale of quantity and quality to all persons under varying circumstances of constitu- tion and outward surroundings ; and to attempt to feed in the same way all these people for short or long periods, idle or employed, with light work or hard work, in hot or in cold weather, excited by hope or depressed by failure, involves an error of either excess or defect, or both at once. The dietaries recommended by the Home Office for prisoners very properly take all these circumstances into consideration. They allot "bare existence" diet only to those sen- tenced for short terms without labor. And they recognize the fact that a man's health is not injured (perhaps sometimes it is improved)

364 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

by a few days of such abstinence as would in the long-run be dele- terious to him. Under a sentence of seven days, a prisoner gets daily one pound of bread and a quart of gruel containing four ounces of oatmeal. For more than seven and under twenty-one days, he has an extra half pound of bread. For longer terms it is advised to add potatoes and meat.

The nutritive value of the first-named diet is thus calculated by Dr. Pavy ("Treatise on Food," page 415) :

Nitrogenous matter 1.800 ounce.

Fat 480 "

Carbohydrates 10.712 "

Of the second :

Nitrogenous matter 2.448 ounces.

Fat 608 "

Carbohydrates 14.792 "

In the convict establishments prisoners are all under long sen- tences, and are classified for dietetic purposes according to their occupation.

The sparest of all is called " punishment diet," and is administered for offenses against the internal discipline of the prison. It is equiv- alent to corporeal chastisement, being designed to make the stomach a source of direct pain. It is limited to a period of three days, and fully answers its purposed end as a deterrent by causing the solar plexus to experience the greatest amount of distress it is capable of ; for after the expiration of that period sensation becomes blunted. It consists of one pound of bread and as much water as the prisoner chooses to drink. This last-named concession is not an unimportant one; for it has been already remarked that a supply of fluid enables starvation, and by implication abstinence, to be longer borne. At the same time, it probably postpones the anaesthesia, and therefore makes the intended suffering more real. "Punishment diet" con- tains, in Dr. Pavy's estimate:

Nitrogenous matter 1.296 ounce.

Carbohydrates 8.160 "

Fat 0.256 "

Mineral matter 0.868 "

Total of dry solids 10.080 "

GOVERNMENT DIETARIES. 365

This is about half of what an average man requires to sustain him- self without work, and under its discipline he would probably lose three or four ounces of his weight daily till his bodily substance was reduced by six-tenths, at which period, according to Ohossat's exper- iments, he would die.

"Penal diet" is that which is apportioned for more protracted punishment. It may be continued for three months. It consists of 20 ounces of bread, 8 ounces of oatmeal, 20 ounces of milk, and 16 ounces of potatoes daily. Its chemical constituents are as follows:

Nitrogenous matter 8.7S4 ounces.

Carbohydrates 19.864 "

Fat 1-5S0 "

Mineral matter 0.972 "

Total of dry soUds .., 2G.200 "

Upon this diet a fair amount of work may be done. The combustion of the carbohydrates evolves sufficient force to raise a ton 4,193 feet; and thus the effete muscular substance may be worn off by destructive assimilation, making place for new muscle derived from the nitrogenous matter, of which a bare sufficiency, but yet probably a sufficiency, is supplied. A man of strong constitution is usually found at the end of it to be in good health and of normal weight ; yet he has never probably experienced the content which arises from a luxits consumption of food. It is intended to deny him the normal pleasure of the accumulation of reserve force in the gas- tric region. This pleasurable sensation under ordinary circumstances much promotes digestion, so that the whole of the ingesta are made the best use of; and therefore in " penal diet," as above quoted, it has been found expedient to introduce the slight excess to be no- ticed above what is needful to accomplish the required work in "foot-tons" {see before). The penalty of the regimen involves a certain degree of waste.

A close imitation of " penal diet " is that which the duty of a responsible government demands should be served out during a tem- porary famine, that is, one calculated not to last above three months. It is more economical to introduce the elements of variety in the diet than to be too monotonous — that is, to save in the daily issue and to be occasionally liberal, to feast from time to time as a break

366 I>IET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

in tlie regular fast. The expense of the excess is more than replaced by the diminished habitual ration, and that powerful preservative of life, anticipation of pleasure, is brought iuto play. A reduction of the allowance below what experience has indicated as " bare exist- ence diet," made during the famine in Madras in the beginning of 1877, was attended with disastrous results.

By dint of mixing and varying his diet, and making it consist of very nutritious articles, such as bread, meat, yolk of eggs, and soup, Signor Oornaro succeeded in reducing tlie quantity he daily consumed to as little as 12 ounces (Venetian). But then he made the solids go much farther by the addition of 14 ounces of good wine. And the probability is that this gentleman had a peculiar constitution, for, in spite of his many readers, he has had no imi- tators of the experiment on their own persons.

2. The appropriate food of the second class may be fairly repre- sented by the dietaries of European soldiers in time of peace. The English soldier on home service, according to Dr. Parkes, receives from Government 5J- pounds of meat and 7 pounds of bread weekly, and buys additional bread, vegetables, mijk, and groceries out of his pay. Such a diet is suflScient for anybody under ordinary circum- stances of regular light occupation ; but should extra demands be made upon mind or body, weight is lost, and, if the demands continue to be made, the health will suffer. Mr. F. Buckland, surgeon in the Guards, remarks {Society of Arts Journal^ 1863, quoted by Dr. Playfair) that, though the sergeants in the Guards fatten upon their rations, the quantity is not enough for recruits during their drill.

The Prussian soldier during peace gets weekly from his canteen 11 pounds 1 ounce of rye bread and not quite 2^ pounds of meat. This is obviously insufficient, but under the conscription system it is reckoned that he will be able to make up the deficiency out of his own private means, or obtain charitable contributions from his friends. Dr. Hildesheim (" Die Normal-Diat," Berlin, 1856, page 60) states that asthenic diseases are very common in the army, which leads to the inference that the chance assistance on which the author- ities lean is not trustworthy. As the legal ration in these two ser- vices does not profess to be a man's full food, it is needless to analyze it. In the French infantry of the line, each man during peace gets weekly 15 pounds of bread, 3^^^ pounds of meat, 2^ pounds of haricot beans or other vegetables, with salt and pepper, and If ounce of

ECONOMICAL DIETARIES. 367

brandy. This seems to be enough to support a man under light employment. Its analysis gives :

Water 179.83 oimces.

Nitrogenous matter (or albuminates) 30.17 "

Fat 9.29 "

Carbohydrates (or starch) 126 84 "

Total of dry solids 166.80 "

An Austrian under the same circumstances receives 13.9 pounds of bread, ^ pound of flour, and 3.3 pounds of meat. The alimentary contents are:

Water 129.50 ounces.

Nitrogenous matter. 27.40 "

Fat a23 "

Carbohydrates 1 19.45 **

Total of dry soUds 155.08 •♦

The Russian conscript is allowed weekly : *

Black bread 7 pounds.

Meat • 7 pounds.

Kawass (beer) . .'. 7.7 quarts.

Sour cabbage 24^ gills— 122i ounces.

Barley 24f gills— 122f ounces.

Baits 101 ounces.

Horse-radish 28 grains.

Pepper 28 grains.

Vinegar 5i gills— 26i ounces.

The " moderate exercise " of brain and muscle combined in the above classes is fairly represented in the convict scale by "light labor " (such as oakum picking) and by " industrial employment " (such as tailoring, cobbling, Roman mosaic and mat making, basket weaving, etc.). The dietary for prisoners thus engaged is nearly identical, except that the artisans using their brains are supplied with about an ounce extra daily.

The " industrial employment diet " for a week is thus analyzed by Dr. Pavy :

» " Eeport of Sanitary Commission," 1853, p. 426, quoted by Dr. Parkes.

17

DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

WEEKLY ALLOWANCE.	Nitrogenous Matter.	Carbohy-	Fat.	Mineral Matter.	Total Water- free Matter.
	Ouncei. 8.500 14.000 28.000 7.000 8.500 1.000 148.000 4.000 8.625 16.000 8.000 1.500 1.000 8.000 1.000 96.000	Ounces. 0.560 1.764 1.148 "'6!663 11.988 1.340 0.931 4.416 1.688 "*6".6i3 0.036 0.012 2.016	Ounces. 1.540 8.932 1.456 6.390 "'6.743 75.480 ""e'.m ""6!i45 0.216 0.072 . 21.120	Ounces. 1.295 0.784 1.092 "'6!624 2.363 0.972 0.172 2.472 0.320 1.244 0.002 ""6!i92	Ounces. 0.105 0.420 0.224 "'3.566 0.020 8.404 0.216 0.147 0.472 2.072 0.030 0.010 0.018 0.006 0.672	Ounces. 8 500
Oatmeal	11 900
Milk . ..	3 920
Molasses Salt	5.390 3 500
Barley	0 850
Bread	93 240
Cheese	2 523
Flour Meat (cooked with- ) out bone or gravy), f Shins (made into soup). Suet	7.331 7.360 4.080 1 274
Carrots . .	0 170
	0 2TO
Turnips . ...	0 090
Potatoes	24.000
Total water-free m	atter	25.975	121.175	10.987	11.316	169. 4US

This is probably a fair model for the most economical dietary on which an artisan or laborer on light work can thrive. It may bo observed that the principle of variety is very conspicuous, and in private life it is possible to introduce still more variety by cook- ery. In the English and Prussian armies the introduction of va- riety is left to be attained by forcing the soldier to purchase some portion of his food out of his own pocket ; in the French scale it is managed by issuing spices and various vegetables, and trusting to the innate genius of the Gaulish warrior for cooking. The issue of an occasional glass of brandy on holidays makes an agreeable change and benefits digestion; but if wine could be obtained it would be better and not extravagant. The Austrian bill of fare is sadly monotonous. The Russian ration may be noticed as particularly liberal of accessory and antiscorbutic food, from which civil as well as military dieticians might take a useful hint. Vinegar and other vegetable acids are too much neglected by our handicraftsmen and soldiers. The Carthaginians are stated by Aristotle to have used vinegar as a substitute for wine during their campaigns ; and the recipes given by Cato for flavoring vinegar with fruits show that it was in use among the laboring population in Italy.

3. "Active" laborers are those who get through such an amount of work daily, exclusive of Sundays, as may be represented by a walk

HARD-LABOR DIET.

369

of twenty miles. In this class are soldiers during a campaign, letter- carriers, and engineers employed on field-work or as artisans. These habitually consume on the average about a fifth more nitrogenous food and twice as much fat as the last class, while the quantity of vegetable hydrocarbons is not augmented, except in the Koyal Engi- neers.

The " hard-labor diet " of convict prisons fairly represents what the authorities consider the minimum. It is the same as that already described as " industrial-employment diet," with the following addi- tions: barley, one ounce; bread, twenty ounces; shins for soup, eight ounces; carrots, one ounce; onions, one-half ounce ; turnips, one ounce. It contains, however, fourteen ounces less milk and one ounce less " meat."

The nutritive value of the additions may be seen by Dr. Pavy's alimentary analysis, which is as follows :

WEEKLY ADDITIONS.	Nitroge- nous Matter.	Carbo- hydrates.	Fat.	"""*'• Matter.
Barley	Ounces. 1.000 20.000 8.000 1 000 0.500 1.000	0.068 1.620 1.688 0.013 0.006 0.012	0.743 10.280 '6'. 145 0.036 0.072	0.024 0.320 0.320 0.002	0.020 0.S50
Bread	0.460 1 12.G&iO
Shins .	2.072 1 4.0S0
	0.010 0.170
Onions	0.003 0.C45
Turnips	0.C06 0.090
Total water-free matter		8.402	11.276	0.666	2.571 17.915

From these totals must be deducted the articles cut off:

WEEKLY DIMINUTIONS.	Nitroge- nous Matter.	Carbo- hydrate*.	Fat.	Mineral Matter.	Total Water-free Matter.
Milk	14.000 1.000	0.574 0.276	0.T28	0.546 0.154	0.112 o.oso	1.960
Meat	0.4G0
Total water-free matter.		0.S50	0.728	0.700	0.142 j 2.420

The same food must be given summer and winter, though the de- mand must be greater to provide for the extra quantity of heat re- quired to be produced in cold weather. But then the amount of

370 DIET IN HEALTH AND DISEASE.

work is diminished at tlie latter season by If hours, which is equiva- lent to an augmentation of the diet. The additions are more judi- cious than those made by the classes above mentioned, who partly furnish their own food; for bread and vegetables constitute a large portion of the convict ration, and the extra quantity of soup replaces the lost milk, without risk of the waste in cooking, common when the uneducated deal with solid meat.

4. " Hard work " is that got through by English navvies, hard- worked weavers, and blacksmiths, etc., which is more earnest and in- tense than the enforced '' hard labor " of the convict. It is difficult to obtain accurate information, but it would appear from Dr. Play- fair's estimates that the customary addition to the diet is entirely in nitrogenous constituents. The higher their wages, the more meat the men eat.

The neglect of vegetables by the last two classes is, in a physio- logical point of view, imprudent, and possibly may be a contributing cause of an inordinate thirst for alcohol which impoverishes and de- grades many among them. To satisfy their instinctive craving for a hydrocarbon, they take one convenient, indeed, in some respects, but of which any excess is unwholesome. The discovery already mentioned of the production of force from the assimilation of starch leads to a knowledge, opposed to old prejudices but supported by ex- perience, that the raising of the energies to their full height of use- fulness may be effected by vegetable food quite as well as by the more stimulating and more expensive animal nutriment, or by the more rapidly absorbed alcohol.

With regard to the tables quoted above, in which ultimate analy- ses are used as data for dietetic rules, it must be noticed that their authors deprecate arguments being founded on any but the very broadest characters of the articles analyzed. Specimens, even when of the highest quality, differ strangely from one another. Season, soil, modes of culture, the variations of species, and many other little- known influences, come into play and prevent our taking the market names of eatables as representatives of a definite chemical constitu- tion. And it may be added that ample scope should be allowed for the peculiarities of the individual and of his life-history. In the ap- plication of general rules, some one must be trusted to relax or strain them when circumstances require, or failures of a fatal character may occasionally result, and more often a galling perversion of justice.

CARE IN REDUCING THE DIET. 371

Estimates for the thrifty management of food-supply have usually reference to the feeding of others rather than to the calculation of a man's own dietary. Enough has been said on that point under the head of the influence of diet upon health ; and if a person really wants to bring down the expense of feeding himself to the lowest point, he can readily rate himself under one of the classes enumer- ated above, and act accordingly. It may, however, be doubted whether it is wise to reduce the diet to the minimum which the work requires. The certain evils of an accidental deficiency, or of a mis- calculation, are so serious that the danger outweighs the possible in- convenience of a slight excess. It were an unthrifty thrift, indeed, which imperiled vigor of mind and body to effect a pecuniary sav- ing ; for there is no investment so remunerative as high health. A man need not consider that he is wasteful when he spends money upon making his bill of fare palatable and provocative of indulgence to the extent of moderate superfluity. Pleasure and prudence here walk hand in hand.

LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED IN A FIRST-CLASS SCHOOL-KITCHEN.

8 copper stewpans, varying in oize from 8

pints to 3 quarts. 8 enameled stewpans, sizes from 1 pint to 2

quarts.

1 copper saut6-pan ; 12 iron saucepans, sizes from 1 pint to 2 gallons.

Iron pot lor boiling.

8tock-pot, to hold 8 quarts.

Frying-pan.

Iron omelet-pan, tinned.

Fish-kettle, sheet-iron and tin.

Frying basket and pan.

Copper preserving-pan.

2 gridirons.

Tin oven and roasting-jack.

Steamer and saucepan.

Weights and scales, to weigh from \ ounce to 14 lbs.

Coffee-mill; 1 marble mortar and hard- wood pestle.

6 kitchen knives ; 8 kitchen forks,

12 iron spoons ; 6 wooden spoons, various sizes.

1 JBsh-slice ; 1 egg-slice.

8 larding-needles; 1 trussing-needle.

1 set of skewers ; 1 corkscrew.

1 flour-dredger ; 1 sugar-dredger.

1 pasteboard ; 1 chopping-board.

1 rolling-pin ; 1 steak-pounder.

1 chopper ; 1 saw.

1 box of fluted cutters; 1 box of round cutters.

1 box of vegetable cutters.

1 egg-whisk ; 1 grater.

2 flour-tubs, or 1 double bin.

2 cake-tins; 1 coffee-pot (French), to hold 3 pints.

2 block-tin jelly-moulds, sizes 1 pint and 1

quart. 2 white china moulds, sizes 1 pint and 1

quart.

1 iron kettle, to hold 3 quarts ; 8 baking- sheets.

2 square pudding-tins, sizes 1 pint and 1 quart.

2 tart-pans, and 12 patty-pans.

2 souffle-tins, sizes 1 pint and 1 quart

2 strainers, for gravy, etc. ; 1 silk sieve.

2 wire sieves ; 4 hair sieves, various sizes.

1 seasoning-box ; 1 spice-box.

1 tin colander ; toasting-fork.

1 paste-brush ; 1 steel.

1 string-box and scissors ; 1 basting-ladle.

1 jelly-bag and stand; 1 tammy cloth.

6 pudding-basins, sizes from \ pint to 3

pints. 12 basins (8 common), sizes from 1 quart to

4 quarts, and 4 lip-basins, from 1 quart to

1 gallon. 6 dishes ; 6 pie-dishes, sizes from 1 pint to 2

quarts. 24 plates; 1 salting-plate, to hold 3 or 4 gal- lons. 1 bread-pan and cover; 1 cheese-pan and

cover. 8 iron trivets, various sizes. 1 black-board for lectures, size about 5 feet

by 4 feet. Kitchen-range. Gas-stove. Salamander. Kitchen-paper.

Cost, about £52.

374

LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED.

m A SECOND-CLASS SCHOOL-KITCHEN.

X) Iron saucepans and covers, sizes 1 pint, \\	12 meat-plates.
pint, 1 quart, 1^ quart, and 4 quarts.	Seasoning-box.
1 iron saucepan and steamer.	1 toasting-fork.
1 gridiron.	1 dust-pan.
1 frying-pan.	1 salt-cellar ; 1 pepper-box.
1 iron kettle.	1 mustard-pot and spoon.
1 tin colander.	1 hand- bo wL
1 square pudding-tin.	1 steel.
1 baking-tin.	1 aish-tub.
1 pasteboard.	2 brown pans.
1 rolling-pin.	8 jugs.
1 tin roasting-oven and ladte.	1 meat-saw.
1 coal-scuttle.	1 chopper.
1 coal-shovel.	Scales and weights. ,
1 cinder-sieve.	1 corkscrew. .
1 set fire-irons.	1 grater.
6 iron spoons.	1 coffee-pot ; 1 tea-pot.
6 knives and forks.	1 cake-tin.
8 wooden spoons.	1 flour-tub.
6 tea-spoons.	Black-board for lectures, size about 6 feet by
6 basins, various sizes.	4 feet.
8 pudding-basins.	Small range.
3 pie-dishes.	Cost, about £12.
6 dishes, various sizes.

LIST OF MATERIALS AND UTENSILS REQUIRED FOR CLEANING.

1 pail, wooden. Scrubbing-brush.

Set of black-lead brushes.

Sweep'^s brush.

Flue-brush (supplied with range).

Sink-brush.

Sieve-brush.

Dust-pan and brusb.

Broom (hair).

2 tubs.

1 hearthstone. 1 box of black-lead. Whitening. Eotten- stone. Bath brick-duat

i quire emery-cloth.

6 lbs. of soda.

1 bar of scrubbing-soap.

Sand.

Salt.

"White chalk.

1 yard of house flannel.

1 leather.

1 pair of gloves.

1 coal- shovel.

1 cinder-sifter.

1 dust-pan and coal-hammer.

1 coal-scuttle.

1 set of fire-irons.

Cost, about £3.

HJTDEX

PAGE

A-la-mode beef. 54

Alcoholic liquids in severe exertion .... 841

Alexandra pudding — Puddings 211

Amber pudding— Puddings 207

Anchovy sauce — Fish 144

Apple charlotte— Puddings , 199

jelly— Jellies 246

Apples and tapioca— Puddings 223

Apple turnovers and dumplings of short

crust— Pastry 192

water— Sick-Eoom Cookery 297

Arrow-root, cupof— Slck-Koom Cookery 294

Aspic jelly from calves' feet— Jellies — 237

Australian meat 808

Bacon, rolls of —Entries 41

Baked batter and fruit— Puddings 226

fish in vinegar 153

mackerel or heri<ng — Fish 151

potatoes— Vegetables 160

stuflfed haddock— Fish 152

Baking meat 10

Balance of food and work 359

Barley-water (clear)— Sick-Eoom Cook- ery 296

(thick)— Sick-Eoom Cookery 296

Batter and fruit, baked— Puddings 226

pudding, boiled— Puddings 214

pudding in a cup — Puddings 216

Beans, haricot— Vegetables 172

Beef, a-la-mode—Stews 54

PAQB

Beef, &-la-mode— Soups 123

braised fillets of— Entr6es 84

essence — Sick-Eoom Cookery 292

olives — Entries 46

steak pie 74

steak pudding 76

steak pudding— Pastry 190

stewed brisket of— Stews 58

tea, Liebig's quick — Sick-Eoom

Cookery 306

tea— Sick-Eoom Cookery 304

Biscuits, milk 282

oatmeal 288

Blanc-mange— Puddings 213

Boiled batter— Puddings 214

— - cauliflower - Vegetables 167

cod-Fish 147

fish 155

fowl 99

mutton and parsley sauce— Sick- Eoom Cookery 803

new potatoes— Vegetables 158

pig's head, salted 80

potatoes— Vegetables 157

rice 174

rice— Tripe 61

sheep's head 88

tripe with milk and onions— Tripe. 62

turbot— Fish 132

Boiling meat 7

Bonne femme— Soups 112

376

INDEX.

PAGE

Braised fillet of veal 66

fillet of beef— Entries 84

Bran tea— Sick-Room Cookery 300

Brawn, boiled pig's head 82

Brazilian stew— Stews 56

Bread 28T

pudding — Puddings 219

sauce — Eoast Fowl 98

unfermented 289

Bright's disease, diet in 349

Brisket of beef (cold), stewed— Stews. . 58

Broiled salmon— Fish 149

steak 72

Broth, Dr. Kitchener's— Soups 124

mutton— Sick-Eoom Cookery. 301, 303

from sheep's head 91

Brown -bread pudding— Puddings 209

puree of canned meat 811

sauce— Sauces 179

stock 104

Browned sheep's head 91

Brussels sprouts— Vegetables 165

Buns 279

rice 281

Bullock's heart, stufied and roasted 68

Butter, clarifying— Frying 12

Cabbage, pickled 287

souj) — Soups 127

Cabinet pudding— Puddings 197

pudding (cold) -Puddings 228

Cakes— corn-starch cake 274

dough cake 275

German pound cake 270

plain cake 271

plum cake 273

rock cake 277

seed cake 272

Shrewsbury cake 276

Sultana cake 269

Canned Meat 308

brown pur6e 811

• curried rabbit 815

fricassee of mutton 818

: Irish stew 812

mince 824

mulligatawny 807

pie 317

riBsolee 820

PAGE

Canned Meats— sausage rolls 813

savory hash 322

Caramel (browned sugar) — Canned

Meats 312

Carrot pudding— Puddings 210

Carrots— Vegetables 174

Carrots and tumipe- Vegetables 166

Cauliflower au gratin— Vegetables 168

boiled— Vegetables 167

Charlotte russe — Creams 253

Chaudfroid of chicken— Entries 38

Cheese with macaroni 176

soufae— Soufa6s 258

straws 264

Chicken broth— Sick-Koom Cookery... 292

chaudfroid of— Entries 88

fricassee— Entr6e8 42

croquettes or rissoles of— Entries. 50

panada— Sick-Eoom Cookery 291

Clarifying butter— Frying 12

- — dripping— Frying 12

fat-Frying : 12

Cleaning a range 1

a copper stewpan 4

a gas-stove 8

an enameled stewpan 4

an iron saucepan 8

Clear soup— Soups 107

Cod, boiled— Fish 147

Cold cabinet pudding— Paddings 228

chicken, fricassee of— Entries 44

meat, curry 22

meat, fried rissoles 24

meat, goblet pie 20

hashed meat 15

meat fritters. 18

minced meat 26

shepherd's pie 23

Concentration of diet 834

Consumption, diet in 850

Cooked Meat— curry 22

fried rissoles 24

goblet pie 20

hashed meat 15

meat fritters 18

minced meat 23

shepherd's pie ^

Cornish pasties 71

Corn-fltarch cakefc:— Cakes 274

INDEX.

377

PAGE

Corn-starch in a cup— Puddings 215

pudding— Puddings 217

Corpulence, diet for reduction ot 341

Cow-heel jelly— Jellies 242

stewed with onion sauce — Jellies. . 248

Cream of barley— Sick-Room Cookery.. 293

Creams— charlotte russe 253

strawberry cream 252

vanilla cream 250

Croquettes of potato— Vegetables 163

or rissoles of chicken— Entries .... 50

Crowdie— Soups 125

Cup of arrow-root— Sick-Room Cookery 294

Curate's pudding— Puddings 218

Curried rabbit— Canned Meats 315

rabbit or veal— Entrees 28

Curry of cold meat 22

of tripe- Tripe 60

Indian — Entr6es 28

Custard pudding— Puddings 203

sauce— Souffles 257

Cutlets, lobster— Fish 144

mutton— Entries 86

veal— Entrees 39

Diabetes, diet for 851

Diet for bodily labor 385

for excessive muscular work .: 387

for mental work 442

in bodily training 838-S40

in childhood and youth 382

in infancy 829

— — in relation to economy 857

— — in sickness 846

of mothers 845

of old age 846

Digestibihty of food 833

Dough cake— Cakes 275

Drinks— apple-water— Bick-Room Cook- ery 297

barley-water (clear) — Sick-Room

Cookery 296

barley-water (thick)— Sick-Room

Cookery 296

bran tea— Sick-Room Cookery 300

lemonade— Sick-Room Cookery.. . 298

rice-water— Sick-Room Cookery .. 295

toast and watei^— Sick-Room Cook- ery 298

PAGE

Drinks — treacle posset — Sick-Room

Cookery 300

white-wine whey — Sick-Room

Cookery 300

Dripping, clarifying— Frying 12

Dr. Kitchener's broth —Soups 124

Dumplmgs — hard dumplings 232

Norfolk dumplings 233

Dutch sauce— Sauces 182

Egg sauce— Boiled Fowl 101

sauce— Fish 137

Entrees— beef oHves 45

braised fillets of beef 84

chaudfroid of chicken 38

croquettes or rissoles of chicken ... 50

curried rabbit or veal 62

curry (Indian) 28

fricassee of chicken 42

fricassee of cold chicken 44

haricot mutton 48

Irish stew 47

mutton cutlets 86

quenelles of veal 31

veal cutlets 89

Essenceof beef— Sick-Room Cookery.. 292

Fat, clarifying — Frying 12

Fillet of veal, braised— Entries 84

of sole a la maitre d'hOtel— Fish. . . 141

of sole, fried— Fish 142

Fire, to lay a 2

Fish baked in vinegar 153

baked mackerel or herring 151

baked stuflfed haddock 152

boiled 155

boiled cod 147

boiled turbot 132

fillets of sole a la maitre d'h6tel.. . 141

fish puddinar 135

fried fillets of sole 142

fried plaice 154

broiled salmon 149

lobster cutlets 144

pudding— Fish 135

sole au gratin 139

whitebait 138

Flaky crust (for pies and tarts)— Pastry 195

8T8

INDEX.

PAOB

Force in foods 861

Fowl, boiled 99

for boiling, trussing a 99

for roasting, trussing a 95

roasted 95

Frankland on the comparative value of

foods 860

Fricassee of chicken— Entr6eB 42

of cold chicken— Entries 44

of mutton— Canned Meats 818

Fried fillets of sole— Fish 142

potato-chips— Vegetables 161

Fruit-tart of short crust— Pastry 194

Frying 12

Genoese pastry— Pastry 188

German pea soup— Soups 129

pound cake— Cakes 270

sauce— Puddings 209

Giblet soup — Soups IIT

Ginger-bread nuts 2T8

Goblet pie— Cooked Meat 20

Gout, diet in 848

Gravel, diet in 849

Green-sickness, diet for 847

Grilled salmon-Fish 149

steak T2

Gruel— Sick-Eoom Cookery 299

Haddock baked and stuffed— Fish 152

Hard dumplings— Dumplings 232

Haricot beans— Vegetables 172

mutton— Entries 48

Hash, savory, of canned meat 322

Hashed meat— Cooked Meat 15

Herring or mackerel, baked— Fish 151

Iceland moss jelly— Jellies 241

Industrial dietaries 367-868

Invalid pudding— Puddings 224

Irish stew— Entries 47

stew of canned meat 812

• stew— Stews 57

Jam -tart— Pastry 185

Jaundice, diet for 851

Jellies— apple jelly 246

aspic jelly from calves' feet 287

PAOB

Jellies— cow-heel jelly 242

Iceland moss jelly 241

milk jelly from cow-heel 242

ox-foot jelly 244

porter jelly 249

stewed cow-heel with onion sauce. 242

stewed ox-foot 244

wine jelly from calves' feet 284

Lemonade— Sick-Eoom Cookery 298

Lemon pudding— Puddings 198

Liebig's quick beef tea — Sick-Eoom

Cookery 306

food for infants 829

Liver and bacon IS

Lobster cutlets— Fish 144

sauce— Fish 138

Macaroni in milk 176

-with cheese. 1T6

soup— Soups 180

stewed in stock 177

Mackerel or herring, baked— Fish 151

Mashed potatoes— Vegetables 159

turnips— Vegetables 173

Mayonnaise— Sauces 180

Meat, canned — brown pur6e 811

canned— caramel (brown sugar). . . 812

canned— curried rabbit 815

canned— fricassee of mutton 818

canned— Irish stew 312

canned — ^mince 324

canned — mulligatawny 809

canned— pie 817

canned — rissoles 820

canned— sausage rolls 813

canned— savory hash 322

baking 10

boihng T

fritters —Cooked Meat 18

hashed — Cooked Meat 15

minced — Cooked Meat 26

pie— Canned Meat 817

pie, beef-steak 76

re-cooked— curry 22

re-cooked— fried rissoles 24

re-cooked — goblet pie 20

re-cooked— hashed meat ; 15

re-cooked— meat fritters 18

INDEX.

379

PAGE

Meat, re-cooked— minced meat 26

re-cooked — shepherd's pie 23

roasting 5

Mental work, diet for 342

Milk biscuits 282

composition of 380

dietetical effects of. 880

jelly from cow-heel — Jellies 242

rolls 285

soup— Soups 126

Mince of canned meat 824

Minced meat— Cooked Meat 26

Mock- turtle— Soups. 119

Mothers, diet required by 845

Mulligatawny, of canned meat 809

Mutton, boiled, with parsley sauce—

Sick-Room Cookery 803

— broth— Sick-Room Cookery. . , 801, 803

cutlets— Entrees 86

< fricassee, of canned meat 818

—— haricot— Entries 48

Nervous diseases, diet in 861

New potatoes, boiled— Vegetables 158

Nitrogenous food in muscular exercise. 336

Norfolk dumplings— Dumplings 283

Oatmeal biscuits 288

Old age, diet required by 346

Omelet, savory 263

souffle 261

Onion sauce—boiled pig's head 81

Ox-foot jelly— Jellies 245

Oyster sauce— Fish 148

Pancakes— Puddings 201

Pastry— beef-steak pie 74

beef-steak pudding 190

Cornish pasties 71

flaky crust for pies and tarts 195

> fruit- tart of short crust 186

Genoese pastry 188

patty-cases of puflf-paste. 185

pie— Canned Meat 317

pork pie 83

puff-paste 183

— — rissoles of canned meat 820

rissoles of chicken— Entries 56

PAGE

Pastry— rough puflf-paste, for pies, tarts,

and tartlets 189

sausage rolls of canned meat : . 313

short crust 186

short crust for apple turnovers and

dumplings 192

suet crust , 190

tartlets of puflf-paste 183

Patty-cases of puff-paste— Pastry 185

Pavy on the nutritive value of foods 3G4

Pea soup (German) — Soups 129

soup — Soups 128

Peas — Vegetables 171

Penal diet 365

Pickle for meat 266

Pickled cabbage 267

Pie of canned meat 817

beef-steak 75

shepherd's, of cold meat 23

pork 83

Pig's fry— poor man's goose 79

Pig's head, salted and boiled 80

Piquante, sauce — Sauces 181

Plaice— Fish 154

Plain cake— Cakes 271

Pleasure as an object of dietetics 856

Plum cake— <:akes 278

pudding— Puddings 203

Poor man's goose— pig's fry 79

Pork pie 83

Porter jelly — Jellies

Potato-chips, fried— Vegetables 161

croquettes — Vegetables 163

fried slices of— Vegetables 102

souffl6— Souffles 260

Potatoes, baked — Vegetables 160

boiled — Vegetables 157

mashed — Vegetables 158

new, boiled— Vegetables 158

puree of— Soups 114

saute— Vegetables 159

Pot-au-feu, or soup — Soups 121

Proportion of animal and vegetable food 357

Puddings— Alexandra pudding. 211

amber pudding 207

apple charlotte 199

arrow-root— Sick-Room Cookery. . 294

baked batter and fruit 226

batter pudding in a cup 216

380

INDEX.

PA6B

Puddings— beef-steak 76

beef-steak— Pastry 190

blanc- mange 213

boiled batter 214

bread pudding 216

bro\vn-bread pudding 209

cabinet pudding 197

carrot pudding 210

cold cabinet pudding 228

corn-starch pudding 217

corn-starcb pudding in a cup 215

curate's pudding 218

custard pudding 203

fish— Fish 1 35

invalid pudding 224

lemon pudding 198

pancakes 201

plum pudding 203

plum puddings 221

rice pudding 202

rice pudding (with egg) 217

semolina pudding 226

suet pudding 229

tapioca and apples 223

treacle pudding 220

Viennoise or Vennoise pudding. . . 206

Yorkshire puddings 230

Puff-paste— Pastry 183

rough, for pies, tarts, and tartlets- Pastry 189

Puree, brown— Canned Meats 311

of potatoes— Soups 114

Quantity of food required 362

Quenelles of veal 31

Eabbit, curried—Canned Meats 315

curry of— Entries 28

Rheumatism, diet in 348

Eice, boiled 174

boiled— Tripe 60

buns 281

water— Sick-Room Cookery 295

pudding (with egg)— Puddings .... 217

pudding 202

Rissoles, fried— Cooked Meats 24

of canned meat 820

or croquettes of chicken— Entries . 50

Roast bullock's heart, stuffed 68

PA6H

Roast fowl 55

Roasting meat 5

Rock cakes 277

Rolls of bacon — Entries 41

Rough puff-paste, for pies, tarts, and tartlets— Pastry 189

Salmon, broiled-Fish 149

Sauce, anchovy— Fish 144

— — bread 98

brown — Sauces 179

custard— Souffles 257

Dutch— Sauces 182

egg— Sauces 101

egg— Fish 137

for boiled fish— Fish 156

lobster— Fish 133

Mayonnaise— Sauces 180

oyster— Fish 148

piquante — Sauces 180

tartare— Fish 150

white— Sauces 178

wine-Souffles 25T

wine or brandy— Puddings 205

Sausage rolls 85

rolls of canned meat 313

Saut6 potatoes— Vegetables 159

Savory custard— Clear Soup 110

custard— Sick-Room Cookery 806

hash of canned meat 322

omelet 268

Scones 284

Scurvy, diet in 351

Sea pie 87

Seed cake^Cakes 272

SemoUna pudding— Puddings 226

Sheep's head, boiled 88

head broth 88

head, browned 91

Shepherd's pie— Cooked Meat 23

Short bread 285

Short crust— Pastry 186

crust for apple dumplings and turn- overs-Pastry 192

Shrewsbury cakes 276

Sickness, diet required in 846

Sick-Room Cookery— apple-water 297

arrow-root pudding 249

barley water (clear) 296

INDEX.

381

PAGE

6ick-Eoom Cookery — barley - water

(thick) 296

beef tea 804

boiled mutton with parsley sauce.. 303

bran tea 800

chicken panada 291

cream of barley 293

— — cup of arrow-root 294

gruel 299

lemonade 298

Liebig's quick beef tea 806

mutton broth 801

rice-water 295

savory custard 806

toast and water 298

treacle posset 300

white-wine whey 800

Bole i la maitre d'hotel, fillets of— Fish. 141

an gratin— Fish 139

fried fillets of— Fish 142

Souffl6, cheese— Bouflads 258

omelet 261

potato— Souffl6B 260

vanilla-Souffles 255

Soups — bonne-femme soup 112

cabbage soup 12T

clear soup 107

crowdie 126

Dr. Kitchener's broth 124

German pea soup 120

-^ giblet soup IIT

— macaroni soup 130

milk soup 126

mock-turtle soup 119

mulligatawny soup — canned or

Australian meats ... 809

pea soup 128

pot-au-feu : 121

pur6e of potatoes 114

spring vegetable soup. 115

tapioca cream Ill

Spinach— Vegetables 169

Spring vegetable soup — Boups 115

Starvation 854

Bteak, broiled 72

stewed 92

Steamed potatoes— Vegetables 168

Stew, Irish, of canned meat 812

Irish— Entr6e8 47

PAGE

stewed beef or ox-cheek with vegeta- bles—pot-au-feu 121

cow-heel, with onion sauce— Jellies 242

— — ox-foot — Jellies 244

steak 92

Stews— a-la-mode beef 54

Brazilian stew 56

Irish stew 57

stewed brisket of beef (cold) 53

Stock, brown 104

made with vegetables 106

white 106

Strawberry cream 252

Suet crust— Pastry 190

pudding— Puddings 229

Sultana cake— Cakes 269

Tapioca and apples— Puddings. 223

cream— Soups Ill

Tartare sauce— Fish 150

Tart filled with jam— Pastry 185

Tartlets of pufi"-paste— Pastry 183

Toad-in-the-hole 94

Toast and water— Sick-Room Cookery. 298 Treacle posset— Sick-Room Cookery. . . 300

pudding— Puddings 220

Tripe a la coutance— Tripe 63

boiled, with milk and onions 62

curried tripe 60

Trussing a fowl for boiling 99

a fowl for roasting 95

Turbot, boiled— Fish 132

Turnips and carrots— Vegetables 166

mashed— Vegetables 173

Unfermented bread 289

Van Helmonfs notions of diet 329

Vanilla cream— Creams 250

souffle— Souffles 255

Veal, fillet of, braised 66

curry of— Entrees 28

cutlets— Entries 39

quenelles of— Entries 31

Vegetable diet, need of 870

Vegetables— baked potatoes 159

boiled cauliflower 167

boiled new potatoes 168

382

INDEX.

PAOB

Vegetables— boiled potatoes 15T

Brussels sprouts 165

carrots 174

carrots and turnips 166

cauliflower au gratin 168

fried potato-chips 161

fried slices of potato 161

haricot beans 162

mashed potatoes 159

mashed turnips 173

peas 171

potato croquettes 168

Baut6 potatoes 159

spinach 169

steamed potatoes 158

stock 106

PAGS

Viennoise orVennoise pudding— Pud- dings 206

"Weak digestion, diet for 849

Weaning in relation to diet 831

Whitebait— Fish 138

White sauce — Sauces 178

stock 105

wine whey— Sick-Eoom Cookery.. 800

Wine for children 335

jelly from calves' feet— Jellies 284

or brandy sauce — Puddings 205

sauce— Soufla6s 25T

Yorkshire pudding— Puddings 230

yorkshire tea cakes 286

THE END.

LESSONS IN COOKERY:

Hand-book of the National Trainingr-Scliool for Cookeiv. South Kensington, London. To which is added the Principles of Diet in Health and Disease, by Thomas K. Chambers, M. D. Edited by Eliza A. IToumans. In one vol.* 12mo, 382 pagres bound in cloth. Price, $1.50.

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