win I I ill II ■ t^AJR K W. C. 1848 SSIWHWHJ. svS445 0iL^ .jL o$. ^Jvt; , COSMOS: A SKETCH OF A PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE UNIVERSE. BY ALEXANDER VON HUMBOLDT. TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN, BY E. C. OTTE: AND W. S. DALLAS, F.L.S. Naturae vero rerum vis atque majestas in omnibus momentis fide caret, si quis modo partes ejus ac non totam complectatur animo.— Plin., Hist. Nat, lib. vii., c. 1. VOL. V. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, 329 & 331 PEARL STREET, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1860. GENERAL SUMMARY OF CONTENTS OF VOLUME V. OF COSMOS. Introduction to the special results of observation in the domain of telluric phenomena Page 5-14: First Section 14-156 Size, form, and density of the earth 14-37 Internal heat of the earth 37-50 Magnetic activity of the earth 50-156 Historical portion 50-88 Intensity 87-100 Inclination 100-115 Declination 115-146 Polar light , 146-156 Second Section 157- Reaction of the interior of the earth upon its surface. 157, etc- Earthquakes; dynamic action, waves of concussion... 160-176 Thermal springs 177-198 Gas springs, salses, mud volcanoes, naptha springs .... 198-214 Volcanoes xcith and without structural frames {conical and bell-shaped mountains') 214-451 Range of volcanoes from north (19^° N. lat.) to south, as far as 46° south latitude : Mexican volcanoes, p. 266 and 375 ( Jorullo, p. 292, 304, note at p. 293) ; Cofre de Perote, p. 307, Cotopaxi, notes p. 317- 321. Subterranean eruptions of vapor, p. 322-324. Central America, p. 255-263. New Granada and Quito, p. 266-270, and notes (Anti- sana, p. 311-316 ; Sangay, p. 416 ; Tungurahua, p. 415 ; Cotopaxi, p. 318-320; Chimborazo, p. 431, note *); Peru and Bolivia, p. 270, note ; Chili, p. 272, note || (Antilles, p. 394, note *). Enumeration of all the active volcanoes in the Cordilleras, p. 270. Relation of the tracts without volcanoes to those abounding in them, p. 280, note * at 268 ; volcanoes in the Northwest of America, to the north of the parallel of the Rio Gila, p. 377-392 ; review of all the volcanoes not belonging to the New Continent, p. 270-377 ; Europe, p. 328, 329 ; islands of the Atlantic Ocean, p. 330 ; Africa, p. 332 ; Asia— Continent, p. 334-344; Thian-shan, p. 336, 337, 405, and notes p. 327 to 330 (peninsula of Kamtschatka, p. 340-344) ; Eastern Asiatic Islands, p. 344 (island of Saghalin, Tarakai or Karafuto, notes iv SYNOPSIS. p. 288 and 289 ; volcanoes of Japan, p. 350 ; islands of Southern Asia, p. 354-358) ; Java, p. 281-290. The Indian Ocean, p. 358- 363 ; the South Sea, p. 363-376. Probable number of volcanoes on the globe, and their distribution on the continents and islands Page 393-403 Distance of volcanic activity from the sea, p. 279, 404, 405. Re- gions of depression, p. 403-407 ; Maars, Mine funnels, p. 221, 222. Different modes in which solid masses may reach the surface from the interior of the earth, through a net-work of fissures in the cor- rugated soil, without the upheaval or construction of conical or dome- shaped piles (basalt, phonolite, and some layers of pearl-stone and pumice, seem to owe their appearance above the surface, not to sum- mit-craters, but to the effects of fissures). Even the effusions from volcanic summits do not in some lava streams consist of a continuous fluidity, but of loose scoria?, and even of a series of ejected blocks and rubbish ; there are ejections of stones which have not all been glow- ing, p. 291, 311, 312-315, 322-326, note * (p. 289), note * (page 315). Mineralogical composition of the volcanic rock : generalization of the term trachyte, p. 423 ; classification of the trachytes, according to their essential ingredients, into six groups or divisions in conformity with the definitions of Gustav Rose ; and geographical distribution of these groups, p. 423-436; the designations andesite and andesine, p. 422-437, note, 440. Along with the characteristic ingredients of the trachyte formations there are also unessential ingredients, the abundance or constant absence of which in volcanoes frequently very near each other deserves great attention, p. 441 ; Mica, ibid. ; glassy feldspar, p. 442; hornblende and augite, p. 443; leucite, p. 444; oli- vin, p. 444 ; obsidian, and the difference of opinion on the formation of pumice, p. 447 ; subterranean pumice-beds, remote from volcanoes, at Zumbalica, in the Cordilleras of Quito, at Huichapa in the Mexican Highland, and at Tschigem in the Caucasus, p. 320-324. Diversity of the conditions under which the chemical processes of volcanicily proceed in the formation of the simple minerals and their association into trachytes, p. 440, 441, 451. INTRODUCTION. SPECIAL RESULTS OF OBSERVATION IN TIIE DOMAIN OF TELLURIC PHENOMENA. In a work embracing so wide a field as the Cosmos, which aims at combining perspicuous comprehensibility with gen- eral clearness, the composition and co-ordination of the whole are, perhaps, of greater importance than copiousness of detail. This mode of treating the subject becomes the more desira- ble because, in the Book of Nature, the generalization of views, both in reference to the objectivity of external phe- nomena and the reflection of the aspects of nature upon the imagination and feelings of man, must be carefully separated from the enumeration of individual results. The first two volumes of the Cosmos were devoted to this kind of general- ization, in which the contemplation of the Universe was con- sidered as one great natural whole, while at the same time care was taken to show how, in the most widely remote zones, mankind had, in the course of ages, gradually striven to dis- cover the mutual actions of natural forces. Although a great accumulation of phenomena may tend to demonstrate their causal connection, a General Picture of Nature can only pro- duce fresh and vivid impressions when, bounded by narrow limits, its perspicuity is not sacrificed to an excessive aggre- gation of crowded facts. As in a collection of graphical illustrations of the surface and of the inner structure of the earth's crust, general maps precede those of a special character, it has seemed to me that in a physical description of the Universe it would be most appropriate, and most in accordance with the plan of the present work, if, to the consideration of the entire Universe from general and higher points of view, I were to append in the latter volumes those special results of observation upon which the present condition of our knowledge is more partic- ularly based. These volumes of my work must, therefore, in accordance with a remark already made (Cosmos, vol. iii., p. 5-9), be considered merely as an expansion and more careful exposition of the General Picture of Nature (Cosmos, 6 COSMOS. vol. i., p. 56-359), and, as the uranological or sidereal sphere of the Cosmos was exclusively treated of in the two last volumes, the present volume will be devoted to the consid- eration of the telluric sphere. In this manner the ancient, simple, and natural separation of celestial and terrestrial ob- jects has been preserved, which we find by the earliest evi- dences of human knowledge to have prevailed among all na- tions. As in the realms of space, a transition to our own planet- ary system from the region of the fixed stars, illumined by innumerable suns, whether they be isolated or circling round one another, or whether they be mere masses of remote neb- ulas, is indeed to descend from the great and the universal to the relatively small and special — so does the field of our con- templation become infinitely more contracted when we pass from the collective solar system, which is so rich in varied forms, to our own terrestrial spheroid, circling round the sun. The distance of even the nearest fixed star, a Centauri, is 263 times greater than the diameter of our solar system, reckoned to the aphelion distance of the comet of 1680 ; and yet this aphelion is 853 times further from the sun than our earth {Cosmos, vol. iv., p. 190). These numbers, reckoning the parallax of a Centauri at 0/A9187, determine approxi- mately both the distance of a near region of the starry heav- ens from the supposed extreme solar' system and the distance of those limits from the earth's place. Uranology, which embraces the consideration of all that fills the remote realms of space, still maintains the character it anciently bore, of impressing the imagination most deeply and powerfully by the incomprehensibility of the relations of space and numbers which it embraces ; by the known or- der and regularity of the motions of the heavenly bodies ; and by the admiration which is naturally yielded to the results of observation and intellectual investigation. This consciousness of regularity and periodicity was so early im- pressed upon the human mind, that it was often reflected in those forms of speech which refer to the ordained course of the celestial bodies. The known laws which rule the celes- tial sphere excite, perhaps, the greatest admiration by their simplicity, based, as they solely are, upon the mass and distri- bution of accumulated ponderable matter and upon its forces of attraction. The impression of the sublime, when it arises from that which is immeasurable and physically great, pass- es almost unconsciously to ourselves beyond the mysterious INTRODUCTION. 7 boundary which connects the metaphysical with the physical, and loads ns into another and higher sphere of ideas. The image of the immeasurable, the boundless, and the eternal, is associated with a power which excites within us a more earn- est and solemn tone of feeling, and which, like the impres- sion of all that is spiritually great and morally exalted, is not devoid of emotion. The effect which the aspect of extraordinary celestial phe- nomena so generally and simultaneously exerts upon entire masses of people, bears witness to the influence of such an association of feelings. The impression produced in excita- ble minds by the mere aspect of the starry vault of heaven is increased by profounder knowledge, and by the use of those means which man has invented to augment his powers of vi- sion, and at the same time enlarge the horizon of his observ- ation. A certain impression of peace and calmness blends with the impression of the incomprehensible in the universe, and is awakened by the mental conception of normal regu- larity and order. It takes from the unfathomable depths of space and time those features of terror which an excited im- agination is apt to ascribe to them. In all latitudes man, in the simple natural susceptibility of his mind, prizes " the calm stillness of a starlit summer night." Although, magnitude of space and mass appertains more especially to the sidereal portion of cosmical delineation, and the eye is the only organ of cosmical contemplation, our tel- luric sphere has, on the other hand, the preponderating ad- vantage of presenting us with a greater and a scientifically distinguishable diversity in the numerous elementary bodies of which it is composed. All our senses bring us in contact with terrestrial nature ; and while astronomy, which, as the knowledge of movins; luminous celestial bodies is most acces- sible to mathematical treatment, has been the means of in- creasing in the most marvelous manner the splendor of the higher forms of analysis, and has equally enlarged the lim- its of the extensive domain of optics, our earthly sphere, on the other hand, by its heterogeneity of elements, and by the complicated play of the expressions of force inherent in matter, has formed a basis for chemistry, and for all those branches of physical science which treat of phenomena that have not as yet been found to be connected with vibra- tions generating heat and light. Each sphere has, there- fore, in accordance with the nature of the problems which it presents to our investigation, exerted a different influence 8 COSMOS. on the intellectual activity and scientific knowledge of man- kind. All celestial bodies, excepting our own planet and the aerolites which are attracted by it, are, to our conception, composed only of homogeneous gravitating matter, without any specific or so-called elementary difference of substances. Such a simple assumption is, however, not by any means based upon the inner nature and constitution of these remote celestial orbs, but arises merely from the simplicity of the hypotheses which are capable of explaining and leading us to predict the movements of the heavenly bodies. This idea arises, as I have already had occasion frequently to remark {Cosmos, vol. i., p. 62-67, and p. 135-137 ; vol. iii., p. 6-20, and 22-24), from the exclusion of all recognition of hetero- geneity of matter, and presents us with the solution of the great problem of celestial mechanics, in which all that is va- riable in the uranological sphere is subjected to the sole con- trol of dynamical laws. Periodical alternations of light upon the surface of the planet Mars do indeed point, in accordance with its different seasons of the year, to various meteorological processes, and to the polar precipitates excited by cold in the atmosphere of that planet (Cosmos, vol. iv., p. 160). Guided by analo- gies and reasoning, we may indeed here assume the presence of ice or snow (oxygen and hydrogen), as in the eruptive masses or the annular plains of the moon we assume the ex- istence of different kinds of rock on our satellite, but direct observation can teach us nothing in reference to these points. Even Newton ventured only on conjectures regarding the elementary constitution of the planets which belong to our own solar system, as we learn from an important conversa- tion which he had at Kensington with Conduit (Cosmos, vol. i., p. 132). The uniform image of homogeneous gravitating matter conglomerated into celestial bodies has occupied the fancy of mankind in various ways, and mythology has even linked the charm of music to the voiceless regions within the realms of space (Cosmos, vol. iv., p. 108-110). Amid the boundless wealth of chemically varying sub- stances, with their numberless manifestations of force — amid the plastic and creative energy of the whole of the organic world, and of many inorganic substances — amid the meta- morphosis of matter which exhibits an ever-active appear- ance of creation and annihilation, the human mind, ever striving to grasp at order, often yearns for simple laws of INTRODUCTION. (J motion in the investigation of the terrestrial sphere. Even Aristotle, in his Physics, states that " the fundamental prin- ciples of all nature arc change and motion ; he who does not recognize this truth recognizes not Nature herself" (Phys. Auscutt., iii., 1, p. 200, Uekker), and, referring t:> the differ- ence of matter ("a diversity in essence"), he designates mo- tion, in respect to its qualitative nature, as a metamorphosis, dXXoiidoic, very different from mere mixture, \ii^,ic, and a penetration which does not exclude the idea of subsequent separation (De Gene?: et Corrupt, i., 1, p. 327). The unequal ascent of fluids in capillary tubes — the endos- mosis which is so active in all organic cells, and is probably a consequence of capillarity — the condensation of different kinds of gases in porous bodies (of oxygen in spongy plati- num, with a pressure which is equal to a force of more than 700 atmospheres, and of carbonic acid in boxwood charcoal, when more than one third is condensed in a liquid state on the walls of the cells) — the chemical action of contact-sub- stances, which by their presence occasion or destroy (by ca- talysis) combinations without themselves taking any part in them — all these phenomena teach us that bodies at infinitely small distances exert an attraction upon one another, which depends upon their specific natures. We can not conceive such attractions to exist independently of motions, which must be excited by them although inappreciable to our eyes. We are still entirely ignorant of the relations which recip- rocal molecular attraction as a cause of unceasing motion on the surface, and very probably also in the interior of the earth's body, exerts upon the attraction of gravitation, by which the planets as well as their central body are main- tained in constant motion. Even the partial solution of this purely physical problem would yield the highest and most splendid results that can be attained in these paths of in- quiry, by the aid of experimental and intellectual research. I purposely abstain in these sentences from associating (as is commonly done) the name of Newton with that law of at- traction which rules the celestial bodies in space at bound- less distances, and which is inversely as the square of the distance. Such an association implies almost an injustice toward the memory of this great man, who had recognized both these manifestations of force, although he did not sepa- rate them with sufficient distinctness ; for we find — as if in the felicitous presentiment of future discoveries — that he at- tempted, in the Queries to his Optics, to refer capillarity, and A2 10 COSMOS. the little that was then known of chemical affinity, to univers- al gravitation (Laplace, Expos, clu Syst. die Monde, p. 384. Cosmos, vol. iii., p. 23). As in the physical world, more especially on the borders of the sea, delusive images often appear which seem for a time to promise to the expectant discoverer the possession of some new and unknown land ; so, on the ideal horizon of the remotest regions of the world of thought, the earnest in- vestigator is often cheered by many sanguine hopes, which vanish almost as quickly as they have been formed. Some of the splendid discoveries of modern times have undoubtedly been of a nature to heighten this expectation. Among these we may instance contact-electricity — magnetism of rotation, which may even be excited by fluids, either in their aqueous form or consolidated into ice — the felicitous attempt of con- sidering all chemical affinity as the consequence of the elec- trical relations of atoms with a predominating polar force — the theory of isomorphous substances in its application to the formation of crystals — many phenomena of the electrical condition of living muscular fibre — and, lastly, the knowledge which we have obtained of the influence exerted by the sun's position, that is to say, the thermic force of the solar rays, upon the greater or lesser magnetic capacity and conducting power of one of the constituents of our atmosphere, namely, oxygen. When light is unexpectedly thrown upon any pre- viously obscure group of phenomena in the physical world, we may the more readily believe that we are on the thresh- old of new discoveries, when we find that these relations ap- pear to be either obscure, or even in opposition to already established facts. I have more particularly adduced examples in which the dynamic actions of attracting forces seem to show the course by which we may hope to approximate toward the solution of the problem of the original, unchangeable, and hence named the elementary heterogeneity of substances (for in- stance, oxygen, hydrogen, sulphur, potassium, phosphorus, tin, etc.), and of the amount of their tendency to combine ; in other words, their chemical affinity. Differences of form and mixture are, I would again repeat, the only elements of our knowledge of matter; they are the abstractions under which we endeavor to comprehend the all-moving universe, both as to its size and composition. The detonation of the fulminates under a slight mechanical pressure, and the still more formidable explosion of terchloride of nitrogen, which INTRODUCTION. 11 is accompanied by fire, contrast with the detonating combi- nation of chlorine and hydrogen, which explodes when the sun's rays fall directly upon it (more especially the violet rays). Metamorphosis, union, and separation afford evi- dence of the eternal circulation of the elements in inorganic nature no less than in the living cells of plants and animals. "The quantity of existing matter remains, however, the same ; the elements alone change their relative positions to one another." We thus find a verification of the ancient axiom of Anax- agoras, that created things neither increase nor decrease in the Universe, and that that which the Greeks termed the destruction of matter was a mere separation of parts. Our earthly sphere, within which is comprised all that portion of the organic physical world which is accessible to our ob- servation, is apparently a laboratory of death and decay ; but that great natural process of slow combustion, which we call decay, does not terminate in annihilation. The liberated bodies combine to form other structures, and through the agency of the active forces which are incorporated in them a new life germinates from the bosom of the earth. COSMOS. RESULTS OF OBSERVATION IN THE TELLURIC PORTION OF THE PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE UNIVERSE. In the attempt to grasp the inexhaustible materials afford- ed by the study of the physical world ; or, in other words, to group phenomena in such a manner as to facilitate our in- sight into their causal connection, general clearness and lu- cidity can only be secured where special details — more par- ticularly in the long and successfully cultivated fields of ob- servation— are not separated from the higher points of view of cosmical unity. The telluric sphere, as opposed to the uranological, is separable into two portions, namely, the in- organic and the organic departments. The former comprises the size, form, and density of our terrestrial planet ; its in- ternal heat ; its electro-magnetic activity ; the mineral con- stitution of the earth's crust ; the reaction of the interior of the planet on its outer surface which acts dynamically by producing earthquakes, and chemically by rock-forming, and rock-metamorphosing processes ; the partial covering of the solid surface by the liquid element — the ocean ; the contour and articulation of the upheaved earth into continents and islands ; and, lastly, the general external gaseous investment (the atmosphere). The second or organic domain comprises not the individual forms of life which we have considered in the Delineation of Nature, but the relations in space which they bear to the solid and fluid parts of the earth's surface, the geography of plants and animals, and the descent of the races and varieties of man from one common, primary stock. This division into two domains belongs, to a certain extent, to the ancients, who separated from the vital phenomena of plants and animals such material processes as change of form and the transition of matter from one body to another. In the almost total deficiency of all means for increasing the powers of vision, the difference between the two organisms* was based upon mere intuition, and in part upon the dogma * See Cosmos, vol. iii., p. 42. 14 COSMOS. of self-nutrition (Aristot., Be Anima, ii., 1, t. i., p. 412, a 14, Bekker), and of a spontaneous incentive to motion. This kind of mental comprehension which I have named intuition, together with that felicitous acumen in the power of combin- ing his ideas, which was so characteristic of the Stagyrite, led him to the assumption of an apparent transition from the inanimate to the living, from the mere element to the plant, and induced him even to adopt the view that in the ever-ascending processes of plastic formation there were grad- ual and intermediate stages connecting plants with the low- er animals (Aristot., Be part. Animal, iv., 5, p. 681, a 12, and Hist. Animal, viii., 1, p. 588, a 4, Bekker). The history of organims (taking the word history in its original sense, and therefore in relation to the faunas and floras of earlier periods of time) is so intimately connected with geology, with the order of succession of the superimposed terrestrial strata, and with the chronometrical annals of the upheaval of continents and mountains, that it has appeared most ap- propriate to me, on account of the connection of great and widely diffused phenomena, to avoid establishing the natural division of organic and inorganic terrestrial life as the main element of classification in a work treating of the Cosmos. We are not here striving to give a mere morphological rep- resentation of the organic world, but rather to arrive at bold and comprehensive views of nature, and the forces which she brings into play. SIZE, CONFIGURATION, AND DENSITY OF THE EARTH.— THE HEAT IN THE INTERIOR OF THE EARTH, AND ITS DISTRIBUTION.— MAG- NETIC ACTIVITY, MANIFESTED IN CHANGES OF INCLINATION, DECLINATION, AND INTENSITY OF THE FORCE UNDER THE IN- FLUENCE OF THE SUN'S POSITION IN REFERENCE TO THE HEAT AND RAREFACTION OF THE AIR. — MAGNETIC STORMS. — FOLAR LIGHT. That which in all languages is comprehended under etymologically differing symbolical forms by the expression Nature, and which man, who originally refers every thing to his own local habitation, has further designated as Ter- restrial Nature, is the result of the silent co-operation of a system of active forces, whose existence we can only recog- nize by means of that which they move, blend together, and THE EARTH. 15 a^ain dissever ; and which they in part develop into organic tissues (living organisms), which have the power of repro- ducing like structures. The appreciation of nature is ex- cited in the susceptible mind of man through the profound impression awakened by the manifestation of these forces. Our attention is at first attracted by the relations of size in space exhibited by our planet, which seems only like a hand- ful of conglomerated matter in the immeasurable universe. A system of co-operating forces, which either tend to com- bine or separate (through polar influences), shows the de- pendence of every part of nature upon other parts, both in the elementary processes (as in the formation of inorganic substances) and in the production and maintenance of life. The size and form of the earth, its mass, that is to say, the quantity of its material parts, which, when compared with the volume, determines its density, and by means of the lat- ter, under certain conditions, both the constitution of the in- terior of the earth and the amount of its attraction, are rela- tions which stand in a more manifest, and a more mathe- matically-demonstrable dependence upon one another than we observe in the case of the above-named vital processes, in the distribution of heat, in the telluric conditions of elec- tro-magnetism, or in the chemical metamorphoses of matter. Conditions, which we are not yet able to determine quanti- tatively on account of a complication of phenomena, may nevertheless be present, and may be demonstrated through inductive reasoning. Although the two kinds of attraction, namely, that which acts at perceptible distances, as the force of gravity (the gravitation of the celestial bodies toward one another), and that which is manifested at immeasurably small distances, as molecular or contact-attraction, can not, in the present condition of science, be reduced to one and the same law, yet it is not on that account the less credible that capillary attraction and endosmosis, which is so important in refer- ence to the ascent of fluids, and in respect to animal and vegetable physiology, may be quite as much affected by the force of gravitation, and its local distribution, as electro- magnetic processes and the chemical metamorphosis of mat- ter. To refer to extreme conditions, we may assume that if our planet had only the mass of the moon, and therefore al- most six times less intensity of gravity, the meteorological processes, the climate, the hypsometrical relations of up- heaved mountain chains, and the physiognomy of the vege- 16 COSMOS. tation would be quite different from what they now are. The absolute size of our planet, which we are here consider- ing, maintains its importance in the collective economy of nature merely by the relations which it bears to mass and rotation ; for even in the universe, if the dimensions of the planets, the quantitative admixture of the bodies which com- pose them, their velocities and distances from one another, were all to increase or diminish in one and the same propor- tion, all the phenomena depending upon relations of gravita- tion would remain unchanged in this ideal macrocosmos, or microcosmos.* a. Size, Figure, Ellipticity, and Density of the Earth. (Expansion of the Picture of Nature, Cosmos, vol. i., p. 163-171.) The earth has been measured and weighed in order to de- termine its form, density, and mass. The accuracy which has been incessantly aimed at in these terrestrial determina- tions has contributed, simultaneously with the solution of the problems of astronomy, to improve instruments of meas- urement and methods of analysis. A very important part of the process involved in the measurement of a degree is strictly astronomical, since the altitudes of stars determine the curvature of the arc, whose length is found by the solu- tion of a series of triangles. The higher departments of mathematics have succeeded, from given numerical data, in solving the difficult problems of the figure of the earth, and the surface of equilibrium of a fluid homogeneous, or dense shell-like heterogeneous mass, which rotates uniformly round a solid axis. Since the time of Newton and Huygens, the most distinguished geometricians of the eighteenth century * "The law of reciprocal attraction which acts inversely as the square of the distance is that of emanations, proceeding from a cen- tre. It appears to be the law of all those forces whose action is per- ceptible at sensible distances, as in the case of electrical and magnet- ic forces. One of the remarkable properties of this law is that, if the dimensions of all the bodies in the universe, together with their mu- tual distances and their velocities, were proportionally increased or diminished, they would still describe curves precisely similar to those which they now describe ; so that the universe, after being thus suc- cessively reduced to the smallest conceivable limits, would still always present the same appearance to the observer. These appearances are consequently independent of the dimensions of the universe, as, in vir- tue of the law of the ratio which exists between force and velocity, they are independent of absolute movement in space." — Laplace, Ex- position du Syst. du Monde (5eme ed.), p. 385. THE FIGURE OF THE EARTH. 17 have devoted themselves to the solution of these problems. It is well that we should bear in mind that all the great re- sults which have been attained by intellectual labor and by mathematical combinations of ideas, derive their importance not only from that which they have discovered, and which has been appropriated by science, but more especially from the inlluence which they have exerted on the development and improvement of analytical methods. " The geometrical figure of the earth, in contradistinction to the physical* determines the surface which the superficies of water would assume in passing through a net-work of canals connected with the ocean, and covering and intersect- ing the earth in every direction. The geometrical surface intersects the directions of the forces vertically, and these forces are composed of all the attractions emanating from the individual particles of the earth, combined with the cen- trifugal force, which corresponds with its velocity of rota- tion.! This surface must be generally considered as approx- imating very closely to an oblate spheroid, for irregularities in the distribution of the masses in the interior of the earth will also, where the local density is altered, give rise to ir- regularity in the geometrical surface, which is the product of the co-operation of unequally distributed elements. The physical surface is the direct product of the surface of the solid and fluid matter on the outer crust of the earth." Al- though, while it is not improbable, judging from geological data, that the incidental alterations which are readily brought about in the fused portions of the interior of the earth, when they are moved by a change of position of the masses, may even modify the geometrical surface by producing curvature of the meridians and parallels in small spaces, and at very widely separated periods of time ; the phy 'sical surface of the oceanic parts of our globe is periodically subjected to a change of place in the masses, occasioned by the ebbing and flowing (or, in other words, the local depression and eleva- tion) of the fluid element. The inconsiderable amount of * Gauss, Bestinunung des Breitenunterschiedes zivischen den Stern- warten von Gottingen und Altona, 1828, s. 73. (These two observato- ries, by a singular chance, are situated within a few yards of the same meridian.) t Bessel, Ueber den Einfluss der Unregelmdssigheiten der Figur der Erde auf geoddtische Arbeiten und Hire Vergleichung mit astronomischen Bestimmiuigen, in Schumacher's Astron. Nachr., bd. xiv., No. 329, s. 270 ; and Bessel and Baeyer, Gradmessung in Ostprmssen^ 1838, s. 427-442. 18 COSMOS. the effects of gravity in continental regions may indeed ren- der a gradual change inappreciable to actual observation ; and, according to Bessel's calculation, in order to increase the latitude of a place by a change of only V\ it must be assumed that there is a transposition in the interior of the earth of a mass whose weight (its density being assumed to be that of the mean density of the earth) is that of 7296 ge- ographical cubic miles.* However large the volume of this transposed mass may appear to us when we compare it with the volume of Mont Blanc, or Chimborazo, or Kintschind- jinga, our surprise at the magnitude of the phenomenon soon diminishes when we remember that our terrestrial spheroid comprises upward of 1696 hundreds of millions of such cubic miles. Three different methods have been attempted, although with unequal success, for solving the problem of the figure of the earth, whose connection with the geological question of the earlier liquid condition of the rotating planetary bodies was known at the brilliant epoch of Newton, Huy- gens, and Hooke.| These methods were the geodetico-as- tronomical measurement of a degree, pendulum experiments, and calculations of the inequalities in the latitude and lon- gitude of the moon. In the application of the first method two separate processes are required, namely, measurements of a decree of latitude on the arc of a meridian, and meas- urements of a degree of longitude on different parallels. Although seven years have now passed since I brought forward the results of Bessel's important labors in reference to the dimensions of our globe, in my General Delineation of Nature, his work has not yet been supplanted by any one of a more comprehensive character, or based upon more re- cent measurements of a degree. An important addition and great improvements in this department of inquiry may, how- * Besseh Ueber den Ewjiuss der Verdnderungen des Erdkorpers auf die Polhohen, in Lindenau und Bolmenberger, Zeitschrift fur Astrono- mie, bd. v., 1818, s. 29. "The weight of the earth, expressed in German pounds=9933x 10'21, and that of the transposed mass=9t7 X 10-14." f The theoretical labors of that time were followed by those of Maclaurin, Clairaut, and D'Alembert, by Legendre, and by Laplace. To this latter period we may add the theorem advanced by Jacobi, in 183t, that ellipsoids of three unequal axes may, under certain condi- tions, represent the figures of equilibrium no less than the two pre- viously-indicated ellipsoids of rotation. — See the treatise of this writer, whose early death has proved a severe loss to science, in PoggendorfFs Annalen der Physik und Chemie, bd. xxxiii., 183t, s. 229-233. THE SIZE OF THE EARTH. 19 ever, be expected on the completion of the Russian geodetic measurements, which are now nearly finished, and which, as they extend almost from the North Cape to the Blaek Sea, will afford a good basis of comparison for testing the accu- racy of the results of the Indian survey. According to the determinations published by Bessel in the year 18-11, the mean value of the dimensions of our planet was, according to a careful investigation* of ten * The first accurate comparison of a large number of geodetic meas- urements (including those made in the elevated plateau of Quito, two East Indian measurements, together with the French, English, and recent Lapland observations) was successfully effected by Walbeck, at Abo, in 1819. He found the mean value for the earth's ellipticity to keTnnrVgT> an<^ tnat of a meridian degree 57009-758 toises, or 324, G28 feet. Unfortunately his work, entitled De Forma et Magnitudine Tel- hrris, has not been published in a complete form. Excited by the en- couragement of Gauss, Eduard Schmidt was led to repeat and correct his results in his admirable Hand-book of Mathematical Geography, in which he took into account both the higher powers given for the ellipticity, and the latitudes observed at the intermediate points, as well as the Hanoverian measurements, and those which had been ex- tended as far as Formentera by Biot and Arago. The results of this comparison have appeared in three forms, after undergoing a gradual correction, namely, in Gauss's Bestimmung dcr Breitenunterschiecle von Gottingen unci Altona, 1828, s. 82 ; in Eduard Schmidt's Lehrbuch der Mathcm. undPhys. Geographie, 1829, Th. 1, s. 183, 194-199 ; and, last- ly, in the preface to the latter work (s. 5). The last result is, for a meridian degree, 57008#655 toises, or 324,261 feet ; for the ellipticity, YoT^TTW' Vessel's first work of 1830 had been immediately preceded by Airy's treatise on the Figure of the Earth, in the Encyclopaedia Metropolitana, ed. of 1849, p. 220-239. (Here the semi-polar axis was given at 20,853,810 feet=3949-585 miles ; the semi-equatorial axis at 20,923,713 feet=3962'824 miles; the meridian quadrant at 32,811,980 feet, and the ellipticity at -jiTF-nir)- The great astronomer of Konigsberg was uninterruptedly engaged, from 1836 to 1842, in cal- culations regarding the figure of the earth ; and, as his earlier works were amended by subsequent corrections, the admixture of results of investigations at different periods of time has, in many works, proved a source of great confusion. In numbers, which, from their very na- ture, are dependent on one another, this admixture is rendered still more confusing from the erroneous reduction of measurements ; as, for instance, toises, metres, English feet, and miles of 60 and 69 to the equatorial degree ; and this is the more to be regretted, since many works, which have cost a very large amount of time and labor, are thus rendered of much less value than they otherwise would be. In the summer of 1837 Bessel published two treatises, one of which was devoted to the consideration of the influence of the irregularity of the earth's figure upon geodetic measurements, and their compar- ison with astronomical determinations, while the other gave the axes of the oblate spheroid, which seemed to correspond most closely to existing measurements of meridian arcs (Schum., Astr, Nachr., bd. xiv., No. 329, s. 269, No. 333, s. 345). The results of his calculation 20 COSMOS. measurements of degrees, as follows : The semi-axis major of a rotating spheroid, a form that approximates most close- ly to the irregular figure of our earth, was 3272077*14 toises, or 20,924,774 feet ; the semi-axis minor, 3261139*33 toises, or 20,854,821 feet; the length of the earth's quad- rant, 5131179-81 toises, or 32,811,799 feet; the length of a mean meridian degree, 57013-109 toises, or 364,596 feet; the length of a parallel degree at 0° latitude, and conse- quently that of an equatorial degree, 57108-52 toises, or 365,186 feet; the length of a parallel degree at 45°, 40449*371 toises, or 258,657 feet ; the ellipticity of the earth, $ $ $\ 5-% ; and the length of a geographical mile, of which sixty go to an equatorial degree, 951-8 toises, or 6086*5 feet. The table on page 21 shows the increase of the length of the meridian degree from the equator to the pole, as it has been found from observations, and therefore modified by the local disturbances of attraction : were, 3271953-854 toises for the semi-axis major ; 3261072-900 toises for the semi-axis minor ; and for the length of a mean meridian de- gree— that is to say, for the ninetieth part of the earth's quadrant (vertically to the equator) — 57011*453 toises. An error of 68 toises, or 440-8 feet, which was detected by Puissant, in the mode of calcula- tion that had been adopted, in 1 808, by a Commission of the Nation- al Institute for determining the distance of the parallels of Montjouy, near Barcelona, and Mola, in Formentera, led Bessel, in the year 1841, to submit his previous calculations regarding the dimensions of the earth to a new revision. (Schum., Astr. JVach?'., bd. xix., No. 438, s. 97-116). This correction yielded for the length of the earth's quad- rant 5131179-81 toises, instead of 5130740 toises, which had been ob- tained in accordance with the first determination of the metre ; and for the mean length of a meridian degree, 57013-109 toises, which is about 0-611 of a toise more than a meridian degree at 45° lat. The numbers given in the text are the result of Bessel's latest calcu- lations. The length of the meridian quadrant, 5131180 toises, with a mean error of 255*63 toises, is therefore = 10000856 metres, which would therefore give 40003423 metres, or 21563-92 geographical miles, for the entire circumference of the earth. The difference between the original assumption of the Commission des Poids et Mesures, according to which the metre was the forty-millionth part of the earth's circum- ference, amounts, for the entire circumference, to 3423 metres, or 1756-27 toises, which is almost two geographical miles, or, more ac- curately speaking, 1-84. According to the earliest determinations, the length of the metre was determined at 0*5130740 of a toise, while according to Bessel's last determination it ought to be 0*5131180 of a toise. The difference for the length of the metre is, therefore, 0*038 of a French line. The metre has, therefore, been established by Bes- sel as equal to 443*334 French lines, instead of 443*296, which is its present legal value. (Compare also, on this so-called natural stand- ard, Faye, Lemons de Cosmographic, 1852, p. 93.) THE SIZE OF THE EARTH. 21 Coon tries. i leographioA] Latitude of the Middle of the measured Arc. Length of tho measured Arc. The Length of a |i. i'u .' for tho Latitude of the Middle Arc as obtained from Observations, and given in Keet. Observer!?. (60° 20' io" 1G6 19 37 56 3 555 54 53 26 0 54 8 13-7 52 32 166 (52 85 45-0 \52 2 19-4 44 51 2-5 39 12 0 H6 8 21-5 \12 32 20-8 1 31 0-4 (33 18 30 \35 43 20 Xo -6V ny.Q 0 57 30*4 8 2 2S-9 1 30 29 0 1 31 53-3 2 0 57-4 3 57 13-1 2 50 23-5 12 22 12-7 1 28 45-0 15 57 40-7 1 34 56 -4 3 7 3-5 1 13 17-5 3 34 34-7 365473-4 3658821 365368-0 366396-0 36.r;087-0 365400-0 365071-2 \ 364951-1 / 364671-5 { S637S5-1 363044-0 362950-6 363625-2 { 364819-2 364160-0 Svanberg. Maupertuis. Strove, Tenner. Bcssel, Baeyer. Schumacher. Gauss. Roy, Mudge, Kater. Delambre, Mcchain, Biot, Arago. Mason, Dixon. Lambton, Everest. Lambton. La Condamine, Bouguer. Lacaille. Maclear. 1 • t'ii mark North America East Indies . . . Quito (s. ii.) Cape of Good Hope (s. l.). The determination of the figure of the earth by the meas- urement of degrees of longitude on different parallels requires very great accuracy in fixing the longitudes of different places. Cassini de Thury and Lacaille employed, in 1740, powder signals to determine a perpendicular line at the meridian of Paris. In more recent times, the great trigonometrical sur- vey of England has determined, by the help of far better in- struments and with greater accuracy, the lengths of the arcs of parallels and the differences of the meridians between Beachy Head and Dunnose, as well as between Dover and Falmouth. These determinations were, however, only made for differences of longitude of 1° 26' and 6° 22'.* By far the most considerable of these surveys is the one that was carried on between the meridians of Marennes, on the west- ern coast of France, and Fiume. It extends over the west- ern chain of the Alps, and the plains of Milan and Padua, in a direct distance of 15° 32/ 27//, and was executed under the direction of Brousseaud and Largeteau, Plana and Car- lini, almost entirely under the so-called mean parallel of 45°. The numerous pendulum experiments which have been con- ducted in the neighborhood of mountain chains have con- firmed in the most remarkable manner the previously-recog- nized influences of those local attractions which were inferred from the comparison of astronomical latitudes with the re- sults of geodetic measurements.! * Airy, Figure of the Earth, in the Encycl Metrop., 1849, p. 214- 216. t Biot, Astr. Physique, t. ii., p. 482, and t. iii., p. 482. A very ac- 22 cosmos. In addition to the two secondary methods for the direct measurement of a degree on meridian and parallel arcs, we have still to refer to a purely astronomical determination of the figure of the earth. This is based upon the action which the earth exerts upon the motion of the moon, or, in other words, upon the inequalities in lunar longitudes and latitudes. Laplace, who was the first to discover the cause of these in- equalities, has also taught us their application by ingenious- ly showing how they afford the great advantage which indi- vidual measurements of a degree and pendulum experiments are incapable of yielding, namely, that of showing in one single result the mean figure of the earth.* We would here, again, refer to the happy expression of the discoverer of this method, " that an astronomer, without leaving his observa- tory, may discover the individual form of the earth in which he dwells, from the motion of one of the heavenly bodies." After his last revision of the inequalities in the longitude and latitude of our satellite, and by the aid of several thou- sand observations of Burg, Bouvard, and Burckhardt,f La- place found, by means of his lunar method, a compression curate geodetical measurement, which is the more important from its serving as a comparison of the levels of the Mediterranean and At- lantic, has been made on the parallel of the chain of the Pyrenees by Corabceuf, Delcros, and Peytier. * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 1G8. " It is very remarkable that an astrono- mer, without leaving his observatory, may, merely by comparing his observations with analytical results, not only be enabled to determine with exactness the size and degree of ellipticity of the earth, but also its distance from the sun and moon — results that otherwise could only be arrived at by long and arduous expeditions to the most remote parts of both hemispheres. The moon may, therefore, by the observation of its movements, render appreciable to the higher departments of as- tronomy the ellipticity of the earth, as it taught the early astronomers the rotundity of our earth by means of its eclipses." (Laplace, Expos, du Syst. du Monde, p. 230.) We have already in Cosmos, vol. iv., p. 145-146, made mention of an almost analogous optical method sug- gested by Arago, and based upon the observation that the intensity of the ash-colored light — that is to say, the terrestrial light in the moon — might afford us some information in reference to the transparency of our entire atmosphere. Compare also Airy, in the Encycl. Metrop., p. 189, 236, on the detei-mination of the earth's ellipticity by means of the motions of the moon, as well as at p. 231-235, on the infer- ences which he draws regarding the figure of the earth from preces- sion and nutation. According to Biot's investigations, the latter de- termination would only give, for the earth's ellipticity, limiting and widely differing values (^-j and -gfy). Astron. Physique, 3eme ed., t. ii., 1844, p. 463. f Laplace, Mecanique Celeste, ed. de 1846, t. v., p. 16, 53. THE FIGURE OF THE EARTH. 23 amounting to -3-^-, which is very nearly equal to that yield- ed by the measurements of a degree of latitude (^-tj-). The vibrations of the pendulum yield a third means of de- termining the figure of the earth (or, in other words, the re- lation of the major to the minor axis, on the supposition of our planet being of a spheroidal form), by the elucidation of the law according to which gravity increases from the equa- tor toward the pole. The Arabian astronomers, and more especially Ebn-Junis, at the close of the tenth century, and during the brilliant epoch of the Abbassidian Califs,* first employed these vibrations for the determination of time, and, after a neglect of six hundred years, the same method was again adopted by Galileo, and Father Riccioli, at Bologna, f The pendulum, in conjunction with a system of wheels used to regulate the clocks (which were first employed in the im- perfect experiments of Sanctorius at Padau, in 1C12, and then in the more perfect observations of Huygens in 1656)r gave the first material proof of the different intensity of gravi- ty at different latitudes in Eicher's comparison of the beats of the same astronomical clock at Paris and Cayenne, 111.1672. Pi card was, indeed, engaged in the equipment of this import- ant voyage, but he does not on that account assume to him- self the merit of its first suggestion. Richer left Paris in October, 1671 ; and Picard, in the description of his meas- urement of a degree of latitude, which appeared in the same year,{ merely refers to "a conjecture which was advanced * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 166. Edward Bernard, an Englishman, was the first who recognized the application of the isochronism of pendu- lum-oscillations in the writings of the Arabian astronomers. (See his letter, dated Oxford, April, 1683, and addressed to Dr. Robert Huntington, in Dublin. Philos. Tr ansae, vol. xii., p. 567.) f Freret de V Etude de la Philosophic Ancienne in the Mem. de lAcad. des Inscr., t. xviii. (1753), p. 100. J Picard, Mesure de la Terre, 1671, Art. 4. It is scarcely probable that the conjecture which was advanced in the Paris Academy even before the year 1671, to the effect that the intensity of gravity varies with the latitude (Lalande, Astronomie, t. iii., p. 20 § 2668), should have been made by the illustrious Huygens, who had certainly pre- sented his Discours sur la Cause de la Gravite to the Academy in the course of the year 1669. There is no mention made in this treatise of the shortening of the seconds-pendulum, which was being observed by Richer at Cayenne, although a reference to it occurs in the supple- ments to this work (one of which must have been completed after the publication of Newton's Principia, and consequently later than 1687). Huygens writes as follows: "Maxima pars hujus libelli scripta est, cum Lutetue degerem (to 1681) ad eum usque locum, ubi de altera- tione, quae pendulis accidit e motu Terras." See also the explanation 24 cosmos. by one of the members, at a meeting of the Academy, accord- ing to which the weight of a body must be less at the equa- tor than at the pole, in consequence of the rotation of the earth." He adds, doubtfully, that although it would appear, from certain experiments made in London, Lyons, and Bo- logna, as if the seconds-pendulum must be shortened the nearer we approach to the equator ; yet, on the other hand, he was not sufficiently convinced of the accuracy of the meas- urements adduced, because at the Hague, notwithstanding its more northern latitude, the pendulum lengths were found to be precisely the same as at Paris. The periods at which Newton first became acquainted with the important pendu- lum results that had been obtained by Richer as early as 1672, although they were not printed until 1679, and at which he first heard of the discovery that had been made by Cassini, before the year 1666, of the compression of Jupiter's disk, have unfortunately not been recorded with the same exactness as the fact of his very tardy acquaintance with which I have given in Cosmos, vol. ii., p. 351. The observations made by Richer at Cayenne were not published until 1679, as I have already observed in the text, and therefore not until fully six years after his return, and, what is more remarkable, the annals of the Academie des Insertions contain no notice during this long period of Richer's im- portant double observations of the pendulum clock and of the simple seconds-pendulum. We do not know the time when Newton first be- came acquainted with Richer's results, although his own earliest the- oretical speculations regarding the figure of the earth date farther back than the year 1665. It would appear that Newton did not become acquainted until 1682 with Picard's geodetic measurement, which had been published in 1671, and even then "he accidentally heard of it at a meeting of the Royal Society, which he was attending." His knowl- edge of this fact, as Sir David Brewster has shown (Memoirs of Sir I. Newton, vol. i., p. 291), exerted a very important influence on his de- termination of the earth's diameter, and of the relation which the fall of a body upon our planet bears to the force which retains the moon in its orbit. Newton's views may have been similarly influenced by the knowledge of the spheroidal form of Jupiter, which had been as- certained by Cassini prior to 1666, but was first described in 1691, in the Memoires de I 'Academie des Sciences, t. ii., p. 108. Could Newton have learned any thing of a much earlier publication, of which some of the sheets were seen by Lalande in the possession of Maraldi? (Compare Lalande, Astr., t. hi., p. 335, § 3345, with Brewster, Mem- oirs of Sir I. Newton, vol. i., p. 322, and Cosmos, vol. i., p. 165.) Amid the simultaneous labors of Newton, Huygens, Picard, and Cassini, it is often very difficult to arrive, with any certainty, at a just apprecia- tion of the diffusion of scientific knowledge, owing to the tardiness with which men at that day made known the result of their observa- tions, the publication of which was, moreover, frequently delayed by accidental circumstances. THE FIGURE OF THE EARTH. 25 Heard' S measurement of a degree. In an age bo remarkable for the successful emulation that distinguished the cultivators of science, and when theoretical views led to the prosecution of observations which, by their results, reacted in their turn upon theory, it is of great interest to the history of the math- ematical establishment of physical astronomy that individual epochs should be determined with accuracy. Although direct measurements of meridian and parallel degrees (the former especially in the case of the French meas- urement of a degree* between the latitudes 44° 42' and 47° 30', and the latter by the comparison of points lying to the east and west of the Italian and Maritime Alps)f exhibit great deviations from the mean ellipsoidal figure of the earth, the variations in the amount of ellipticity given by pendulum lengths (taken at different geographical points and in differ- ent groups) are very much more striking. The determina- tion of the figure of the earth obtained from the increase or decrease of gravity (intensity of local attraction), assumes that gravity at the surface of our rotating spheroid must have remained the same as it was at the time of our earth's con- solidation from a fluid state, and that no later alterations can have taken place in its density. $ Notwithstanding the great improvements which have been made in the instruments and methods of measurement by Borda, Kater, and Bessel, there are at present in both hemispheres, from Spitsbergen in 79° 50' north latitude, to the Falkland Islands, in 51° 35' south latitude, where Freycinet, Duperrey, and Sir James Ross successively made their observations, only from Q5 to 70 ir- regularly scattered points § at which the length of the simple * Delambre, Base du Syst. Metrique, t. hi., p. 548. f Cosmos, vol. i., p. 167. Plana, Operations Geodesiques et Astrono- miques pour la Mesure cVun Arc du Parallele Moyen, t. ii., p. 847 ; Carlini in the Effemeridi Astronomiche di Milano per I anno 1842, p. 57. X Compare Biot, Astronomic Physique, t. ii., 1844, p. 464, with Cos- mos, vol. i., p. 168, and vol. iv., p. 105, where I have considered the difficulties presented by a comparison of the periods of rotation of planets, and their observed compression. Schubert (Astron., Th. iii., § 316) has also drawn attention to this difficulty ; and Bessel, in his treatise On Mass and Weight, says expressly that the supposition of the invariability of gravity at any one point of observation has been rendered somewhat uncertain by the recent experiments made on the slow upheaval of large portions of the earth's surface. § Airy, in his admirable treatise on the Figure of the Earth (Encycl. MetropoL, 1849, p. 229), reckoned fifty different stations where trust- worthy results had been obtained up to the year 1830, and fourteen others (those of Bouguer, Legentil, Lacaille, Maupertuis, and La Vol. V.— B 26 cosmos. pendulum has been determined with as much accuracy as the position of the place in respect to its latitude, longitude, and elevation above the level of the sea. The pendulum experiments made by the French astrono- mers on the measured part of a meridian arc, and the observ- ations of Captain Kater in the trigonometrical survey of Great Britain, concurred in showing that the results do not individually admit of being referred to a variation of gravity proportional to the square of the sine of the latitude. On this account the English government determined, at the sug- gestion of the Vice-president of the Royal Society, Davies Gilbert, to fit out a scientific expedition, which was intrust- ed to my friend Edward Sabine, who had accompanied Cap- tain Parry on his first polar voyage in the capacity of as- tronomer. In the course of this voyage, which was con- tinued through the years 1822 and 1823, he coasted along the western shores of Africa, from Sierra Leone to the Isl- and of St. Thomas, near the equator, then by Ascension to South America, from Bahia to the mouth of the Orinoco, on his way to the West Indies and the New England States, after which he penetrated into the Arctic regions as far as Spitzbergen, and a hitherto unexplored and ice-bound por- tion of East Greenland (74° 327). This brilliant and ably- conducted expedition had the advantage of being mainly di- rected to one sole object of investigation, and of embracing points which are separated from one another by 93° of lati- tude. The field of observation in the French expedition for the measurements of degrees was more remote from the equinoc- tial and arctic zones ; but it had the great advantage of pre- senting a linear series of points of observation, and of afford- ing direct means of comparison with the partial curvature of the arcs obtained by geodetico-astronomical observations. Biot, in 1824, carried the line of pendulum measurements from Formentera (38° 39' 567/), where he had already made observations conjointly with Arago and Chaix, as far as Unst, the most northerly of the Shetland Islands (60° 45/ 25/x), and with Mathieu he extended it to the parallels of Bordeaux, Figeac, and Padua, as far as Fiume.* These Croyere), which, however, do not bear comparison with the former in point of accuracy. * Biot and Arago, Recueil cTObserv. GeodesiqueS ct Astronomiques, 1821, p. 526-540; and Biot, Traite d'Astr. Physique, t. ii., 1811, p. 465-173. THE FIGURE OF THE EARTH. 27 pendulum results, when compared with those of Sabine, cer- tainly give — Vtj f°r the compression of the Avhole northern quadrant ; but when separated into two halves, they yield a still more varying result, giving -^^ from the equator to 45°, and ^-J-y from 45° to the pole.* It has been shown in many instances, and in both hemispheres, that there is an appreciable influence exerted by surrounding denser rocks (basalt, green-stone, diorite, and melaphyre, in opposition to specifically lighter secondary and tertiary formations), in the same manner as volcanic islandsf influence gravity and aug- ment its intensity. Many of the anomalies which presented themselves in these observations do not, however, admit of being explained by any visible geological characters of the soil. For the southern hemisphere we possess a small number of admirable, but very widely-diffused observations, made by Freycinet, Duperrey, Fallows, Liitke, Brisbane, and Riimker. * Op. cit.,-p. 488. Sabine (Exper. for determining the Variation in the Length of the Pendulum vibrating Seconds, 1825, p. 352) finds fr^g.-g from all the thirteen stations of his pendulum expedition, notwith- standing their great distances from one another in the northern hem- isphere ; and from these, increased by all the pendulum stations of the British survey and of the French geodetic measurement from Formen- tera to Dunkirk, comprising, therefore, in all a comparison of twenty- five points of observation, he again found ^S".-^' ^ is stiU more strik- ing, as was already observed by Admiral Liitke, that far to the west of the Atlantic region, in the meridians of Petropawlowski and New Archangel, the pendulum lengths yield a much greater ellipticity, namely, -^-y- As the previously applied theory of the influence of the air surrounding the pendulum led to an error in the calculation, and had rendered a correction necessary as early as 1786 (when a some- what obscure one was given by the Chevalier de BuatJ, on account of the difference in the loss of weight of solid bodies, when they are either at rest in a fluid, or impelled in a vibratory motion, Bessel, with his usual analytical clearness, laid down the following axiom in his Unter- suchungen uber die Liinge des einfachen Secunde?ipendels, s. 32, 63, 126- 129 : "When a body is moving in a fluid (the atmosphere), the latter belongs with it to the moved system, and the moving force must be distributed not only over the particles of the solid moved body, but also over all the moved particles of the fluid." On the experiments of Sabine and Baily, which originated in Bessel's practically import- ant pendulum correction (reduction to a vacuum), see John Herschel in the Memoir of Francis Baily, 1845, p. 17-21. t Cosmos, vol. i., p. 167. Compare, for the phenomena occurring in islands, Sabine, Pend. Exper., 1825, p. 237 ; and Liitke, Obs. du Pen- dule invariable, execute'es de 1826-1829, p. 241. This work contains a remarkable table, p. 239, on the nature of the rocks occurring at 16 pendulum stations, from Melville Island (79° 50' N. lat.) to Valparai- so (32° 2' S. lat.). 28 cosmos. These observations have confirmed a fact which had been strikingly demonstrated in the northern hemisphere, namely, that the intensity of gravity is not the same for all places having the same latitude, and that the increase of gravity from the equator toward the poles appears to be subjected to different laws under different meridians. Although the pendulum measurements made by Lacaille at the Cape of Good Hope, and those conducted in the Spanish circumnav- igating expedition by Malaspini, may have led to the belief that the southern hemisphere is, in general, much more com- pressed than the northern, comparisons made between the Falkland Islands and New Holland on the one hand, and New York, Dunkirk, and Barcelona on the other, have, however, by their more exact results, shown that the con- trary is the case, as I have already elsewhere indicated.* From the above data it follows that the pendulum (al- though it is by no means an unimportant instrument in geognostic observations, being as it were a sort of plummet cast into the deep and unseen strata of the earth) does not determine the form of our planet with the same exactitude * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 169. Eduard Schmidt (Matheni. und Phys. Geo- graphic, Th. i., s. 391) has separated from a large number of the pen- dulum observations which were made on board the corvettes Descubi- erta and Atrevida, under the command of Malaspina, those thirteen stations which belong to the southern hemisphere, from which he ob- tained a mean compression of -j^J-.-g-^. Mathieu obtained 0-^5.^ from a comparison of Lacaille's observations at the Cape of Good Hope and the Isle of France with Paris, but the instruments of measurement used at that day did not afford the same certainty as we now obtain by the appliances of Borda and Kater, and the more modern methods of observation. The present would seem a fitting place to notice the beautiful experiments of Foucault, which afford so high a proof of the ingenuity of the inventor, and by which we obtain ocular evidence of the rotation of the earth on its axis by means of the pendulum, whose plane of vibration slowly rotates from east to west. ( Comptes rendus de VAcad. des Sc, Seance du 3 Fevrier, 1851, t. xxxii., p. 135.) Ex- periments for noticing the deviation toward the east in observations of falling bodies, dropped from church towers or into mines, as sug- gested by Benzenberg and Reich, require a very great height, while Foucault's apparatus makes the effects of the earth's rotation percep- tible with a pendulum only six feet long. We must not confound the phenomena which may be explained by rotation (as, for instance, Richer's clock experiments at Cayenne, diurnal aberration, the devia- tion of projectiles, trade-winds, etc.) with those that may at any time be produced by Foucault's apparatus, and of which the members of the Academia del Cimento appear to have had some idea, although they did not farther develop it (Antinori, in the Comptes rendus, t. xxxii., p. 635). TIIE FIGURE OF THE EARTH. 29 as the measurement of a degree or the movements of our satellite. The concentric, elliptical, and individually homo- geneous strata, which increase in density according to certain functions of distance from the surface toward the centre of the earth, may give rise to local fluctuations in the intensity of gravity at individual points of the earth's surface, which differ according to the character, position, and density of the several points. If the conditions which produce these devi- ations are much more recent than the consolidation of the outer crust, the figure of the surface can not be assumed to be locally modified by the internal motion of the fused masses. The difference of the results of pendulum measurements is, however, much too great to be ascribed at the present day to errors of observation. Even where a coincidence in the results, or an obvious regularity, has been discovered by the various grouping and combination of the points of ob- servation, the pendulum always gives a greater ellipticity (varying between the limits -^J-5 and yI~o) than could have been deduced from the measurements of a degree. If we take the ellipticity which, in accordance with Bes- sel's last determination, is now generally adopted, namely, tuu-ts^j we snaU find that the bulging* at the equator * In Grecian antiquity two regions of the earth were designated as being characterized, in accordance with the prevalent opinions of the time, by remarkable protuberances of the surface, namely, the high north of Asia and the land lying under the equator. " The high and naked Scythian plains," says Hippocrates (Z>e Afreet Aquis, § xix., p. 72, Littre), " without being crowned by mountains, stretch far upward to the meridian of the Bear." A similar opinion had previously been ascribed to Empedocles (Plut., De Plac. Philos., ii., 3). Aristotle (Me- teor., i., 1 a 15, p. 66, Ideler) says that the older meteorologists, ac- cording to whose opinions the sun "did not go under the earth, but passed round it," considered that the protuberances of the earth to- ward the north were the cause of the disappearance of the sun, or of the production of night. And in the compilation of the Problems (xxvi., 15, p. 941, Bekker), the cold of the north wind was ascribed to the elevation of the soil in this region of the earth, and in all these passages there is no reference to mountains, but merely to a bulging of the earth into elevated plateaux. I have already elsewhere shown (Asie Centrale, t. i., p. 58) that Strabo, who alone makes use of the very characteristic word opoiredia, says that the difference of climate which arises from geographical position must every where be distin- guished from that which we ascribe to elevation above the sea, in Armenia (xi., p. 522, Casaub.), in Lycaonia, which is inhabited by wild asses (xii., p. 568), and in Upper India, in the auriferous country of the Derdi (xv., p. 706). "Even in southern parts of the world," says the geographer of Amasia, " every high district, if it be also a plain, is cold" (ii., p. 73). Eratosthenes and Poly bius ascribe the very 30 COSMOS. amounts to about 645,457 feet ; about 111 0r, more accu- rately, 11*492 geographical miles. As a comparison has moderate temperature which prevails under the equator not only to the more rapid transit of the sun (Geminus, Elem. Astron., c. 13; Cleom., Cycl. Theor., 1, 6), but more especially to the bulging of the earth (see my Examen Crit. de la Geogr., t. iii., p. 150-152). Both maintain, ac- cording to the testimony of Strabo (ii., p. 97), " that the district lying immediately below the equator is the highest, on which account much rain falls there, in consequence of the very large accumulation of northern clouds at the period when those winds prevail, which change with the season of the year." Of these two opinions regarding the elevation of the land in Northern Asia (the Scythian Europe of Herodo- tus) and in the equatorial zone, the former of the two, with the perti- nacity characteristic of error, has kept its ground for nearly two thou- sand years, and has given occasion to the geological myth of an un- interrupted plateau in the Tartar district lying to the north of the Himalayas, while the other opinion could only be justified in reference to a portion of Asia, lying beyond the tropical zone, and consequently applies only to the colossal, " elevated or mountain plateau, Meru," which is celebrated in the most ancient and noblest memorials of In- dian poetry. (See Wilson's Diet. Sanscrit and English, 1832, p. 674, where the word Meru is explained to signify an elevated plateau.) I have thought it necessary to enter thus circumstantially into this ques- tion, in order that I might refute the hypothesis of the intellectual Freret, who, without indicating any passages from Greek writers, and merely alluding to one which seemed to treat of tropical rain, inter- prets the opinion advanced regarding bulgings of the soil as having reference to compression or elongation at the poles. In the Mem. de VAcad. des Inscriptions, t. xviii., 1753, p. 112, Freret expresses him- self as follows : " To explain the rains which prevailed in those equi- noctial regions, which the conquests of Alexander first made known, it was supposed that there were currents which drove the clouds from the poles toward the equator, where, in default of mountains to stop their progress, they were arrested by the general elevation of the soil, whose surface at the equator is farther removed from the centre than under the poles. Some physicists have ascribed to the globe the figure of a spheroid, which bulges at the equator and is flattened toward the poles; while on the contrary, in the opinion of those of the ancients who believed that the earth was elongated toward the poles, the polar regions are farther removed than the equatorial zone from the centre of the earth." I can find no evidence in the works of the ancients to justify these assertions. In the third section of the first book of Strabo (p. 48, Casaub.), it is expressly stated that, "after Eratosthenes has observed that the whole earth is spherical, although not like a sphere that has been made by a turning- lathe (an expression that is borrowed from Herodotus, iv., 36), and exhibits many deviations from this form, he adduces numerous modifications of shape which have been produced by the action of water and fire, by earthquakes, subterranean currents of wind (elastic vapors?), and other causes of the same kind, which, however, are not given in the order of their occurrence, for the rotun- dity of the entire earth results from the co-ordination of the whole, such modifications in no degree affecting the general form of our earth, the lesser vanishing in the greater." Subsequently we read, also in Gros- THE FIGURE OF THE EARTH. 31 very frequently been made from the earliest times of astro- nomical inquiry between tins swelling or convex elevation of the earth's surface and carefully measured mountain masses, I will select as objects of comparison the highest of the known peaks of the Himalayas, namely, that of Kin- tsehindjinga, which was fixed by Colonel Waugh at 28,174 feet, and that portion of the elevated plateau of Thibet which is nearest to the sacred lakes of Rakas-Tal and Manassa- rova, and which, according to Lieutenant Henry Strachey, is situated at the mean height of 15,347 feet. The bulging of our planet at the equatorial zone is, therefore, not quite kurd's admirable translation, " that the earth, together with the sea, is spherical, the two constituting one and the same surface. The projec- tion of the land, which is inconsiderable and may remain unnoticed, is lost in such magnitudes, so that in these cases we are unable to determ- ine its spherical form with the same accuracy as in the case of a sphere made by a turning-lathe, or as well as the sculptor, who judges from his conceptions of form, for here we are obliged to determine by phys- ical and less delicate perception." (Strabo, ii., p. 112.) " The world is at once a work of nature and of providence — a work of nature, inas- much as all things tend toward one point, the centre of the whole, round which they group themselves, the less dense element (water) containing the denser (earth)." (Strabo, xvii., p. 809.) Wherever we find the fig- ure of the earth described by the Greeks, it is compared (Cleom., Ci/cL Theor., i., 8, p. 51) with a flat or centrally depressed disk, a cylinder (Anaximander), a cube or pyramid ; and, lastly, we find it generally held to be a sphere, notwithstanding the long contest of the Epicureans, who denied the tendency of attraction toward the centre. The idea of com- pression does not seem to have presented itself to their imagination. The elongated earth of Democritus was only the disk of Thales length- ened in one direction. The drum-like form, to axvp-a rv/uTcavoeidic;, which seems more' especially to have emanated from Leucippus (Plut., De Plac.Philos., iii.,10; Galen. Hist. Phil, cap. 21 ; Aristotle, De Cazlo, ii., 13, p. 293 Bekker), appears to have been founded upon the idea of a hemisphere with a flat basis, which probably represented the equator, while the curvature was regarded as the oIkov[X£vt]. A passage in Pliny, regarding Pearls (xi., 51), elucidates this form, while Aristotle merely compares the segments of the sphere with the drum (MeteoroZ., ii., 5, a 10, Ideler, t. i., p. 563), as we also find from the commentary of Olympiodorus (Ideler, t. i., p. 301). I have here purposely avoided re- ferring to two passages, which are well known to me, in Agathemerus (De Geographia, lib. i., cap. 1, p. 2, Hudson), andinEusebius(£"ya?2^e/. Prceparat., t. iv., p. 125, ed. Gaisford, 1813), because they prove witli what inaccuracy later writers have often ascribed to the ancients views which were totally foreign to them. According to these versions, " Eudoxus gave for the length and breadth of the earth's disk values which stood in relation to one another as 1 to 2 ; the same is said in reference to Dica^archus, the pupil of Aristotle, who, however, advanced his own special proofs of the spherical form of the earth (Marcian, Ca- pella, lib. vi., p. 192). Hipparchus regarded the earth as TpaTtefyeidTJc, and Thales held it to be a sphere !" 32 cosmos. three times as great as the elevation of the highest of our mountains above the sea's level, but it is almost five times as great as that of the eastern plateau of Thibet. We ouo-ht here to observe that the results of the earth's compression, which have been obtained by mere measure- ments of a degree, or by combinations of the former with pendulum measurements, show far less* considerable differ- ences in the amount of the equinoctial bulging than we should have been disposed at first sight to conclude from the fractional numbers. The difference of the polar compres- sions (sto and -5-3-0) amounts to only about 7000 feet in the difference of the major and minor axes, basing the calcula- tion on both extreme numerical limits ; and this is not twice the elevation of the small mountains of the Brocken and of Vesuvius ; the difference being only about one tenth of the bulging which would be yielded by a polar compression of 1 As soon as it had been ascertained by more accurate meas- urements of a degree, made at very different latitudes, that * It has often seemed to me as if the amount of the compression of the earth was regarded as somewhat doubtful merely from our wish to attain an unnecessary degree of accuracy. If we take the values of the compression at -g^u, ^0"' TSTT' 2"§TT> we nnd tnat tne difference of both radii is equal to 10,554, 10,905, 11,281, 11,684 toises, or 67,488, 69,554, 73,137, 74,714 feet. The fluctuation of 30 units in the denominator produces only a fluctuation of 1130 toises, or 7126 feet, in the polar radius, an amount which, when compared with the visible inequalities of the earth's surface, appears so very inconsid- erable, that I am often surprised to find that the experiments coin- cide within such closely approximating limits. Individual observa- tions scattered over wide surfaces will indeed teach us little more than what we already know, but it would be of considerable importance to connect together all the measurements that have been made over the entire surface of Europe, including in this calculation all astronomic- ally determined points. (Bessel, in a letter addressed to myself, De- cember, 1828.) Even if this plan were carried out, we should then only know the form of that portion of the earth, which may be re- garded as a peninsular projection, extending westward, about sixty- six and a half degrees from the great Asiatic Continent. The steppes of Northern Asia, even the middle Kirghis steppe, a considerable por- tion of which I have myself seen, are often interspersed with hills, and in respect to uninterrupted levels, can not be compared with the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, or the Llanos of Venezuela. The latter, which are far removed from all mountain chains, and consist immedi- ately below the surface of secondary and tertiary strata, having a very uniform and low degree of density, might, by differences in the results of pendulum vibrations, yield very decisive conclusions in reference to the local constitution of the deep internal strata of the earth. — Compare my Views of Nature, p. 2-8, 29-32. THE FIGURE OF THE EARTH. 33 tho earth could not bo uniformly dense in its interior (be- cause the results showed that the compression was very much less than had been assumed by Newton (^o), and much greater than was supposed by Huygens (3^), who considered that all forces of attraction were combined in the centre of the earth), the connection between the amount of compression and the law of density in the interior of our earth necessarily became a very important object of analyt- ical calculation. Theoretical speculations regarding gravity very early led to the consideration of the attraction of large mountain masses, which rise freely and precipitously into the atmosphere from the dried surface of our planet. Newton, in his Treatise of the System of the World in a Popular Way, 1728, endeavored to determine what amount of deviation from the perpendicular direction the pendulum would experi- ence from a mountain 2665 feet in height and 5330 feet in diameter. This consideration very probably gave occasion to the unsatisfactory experiments which were made by Bou- guer on Chimborazo,* by Maskelyne and Hutton on She- hallien, near Blair- Athol, in Perthshire ; to the comparison of pendulum lengths on a plain lying at an elevation of 6000 * Bouguer, who had been induced by La Condamine to institute experiments on the deviation of the plummet near the mountain of Chimborazo, does not allude, in his Figure de la Terre, p. 361-394, to Newton's proposition. Unfortunately the most skillful of the two trav- elers did not observe on the east and western sides of the colossal mountain, having limited his experiments (December, 1738) to two stations lying on the same side of Chimborazo, first in a southerly di- rection 61° 30' West, about 4572 toises, or 29,326 feet, from the centre of the mountain, and then to the South 16° West (distance 1753 toises, or 11,210 feet). The first of these stations lay in a district with which I am well acquainted, and probably at the same elevation as the small alpine lake of Yana-cocha, and the other in the pumice-stone plain of the Arenal (La Condamine, Voyage & V Equateur, p. 68-70). The deviation yielded by the altitudes of the stars was, contrary to all ex- pectation, only 1" '5, which was ascribed by the observers themselves to the difficulty of making observations so immediately in the vicinity of the limit of perpetual snow, to the want of accuracy in their instru- ments, and, above all, to the great cavities which were conjectured to exist within this colossal trachytic mountain. I have already ex- pressed many doubts, based upon geological grounds, as to this as- sumption of very large cavities, and of the very inconsiderable mass of the trachytic dome of Chimborazo. South-southeast of this mount- ain, near the Indian village of Calpi, lies the volcanic cone of Yana- urcu, which I carefully investigated in concert with Bonpland, and which is certainly of more recent origin than* the elevation of the great dome-shaped trachytic mountain, in which neither I nor Bous- singault could discover auy thing analogous to a crater. See the Ascent of Chimborazo in my Kleine Schriften, bd. i., s. 138. B2 34 cosmos. feet and at the level of the sea (as, for instance, Carlini's observations at the Hospice of Mont Cenis, and Biot and Mathieu's at Bordeaux) ; and, lastly, to the delicate and thoroughly decisive experiments undertaken in 1837 by Reich and Bailey with the ingeniously constructed torsion- balance which was invented by John Mitchell, and subse- quently given to Cavendish by Wollaston.* The three modes of determining the density of our planet (by vicinity to a mountain mass, elevation of a mountainous plateau, and the balance) have already been so circumstantially de- tailed in a former part of the Cosmos (vol. i., p. 157), that it only remains for us to notice the experiments given in Reich's new treatise, and prosecuted by that indefatigable observer during the interval between the years 1847 and 1850. t The whole may, in accordance with the present state of our knowledge, be arranged in the following man- ner: Shehallien, according to the mean of the maximum 4*867 and the minimum 4*559, as found by Playfair 4*713 Mont Cenis, observations of Carlini, with the correction of Giulio 4*950 * Baily, Exper. zvith the Torsion Rod for determining the mean Density of the Earth, 1843, p. 6; John Hers chel, Memoir of Erancis Baily, 1845, p. 24. t Reich, Neue Versuche mit der Drehwage, in the Abhandl. der ma- ihem. physischen Classe der Kon. Scichsischen Gesellschaft der Wissen- schaften zu Leipzig, 1852, bd. i., s. 405, 418. The most recent experi- ments of my respected friend Professor Reich approximate somewhat more closely to the results given in Baily's admirable work. I have obtained the mean 5*5772 from the whole series of experiments : (a) with the tin ball and the longer thicker copper wire, the result was 5*5712, with a probable error of 0*0113 ; (b) with the tin ball, and with the shorter thinner copper wire, as well as with the tin ball and the bi-filar iron wire, 5*5832, with a probable error of 0*0149. Taking this error into account, the mean in (a) and (b) is 5*5756. The re- sult obtained by Baily, and which was certainly deduced from a larger number of experiments (5*660), might indeed give us a somewhat higher density, as it obviously rose in proportion to the greater light- ness of the balls that were used in the experiments, which were either of glass or ivory. (Reich, in Poggend., Annalen, bd. lxxxv., s. 190. Compare also Whitehead Hearn, in the Philos. Transact, for 1847, p. 217-229.) The motion of the torsion-balance was observed by Baily by means of the reflection of a scale obtained from a mirror, which was attached to the middle of the balance, a method that had been first suggested by Reich, and was employed by Gauss in his magnetic observations. The use of such a mirror, which is of great importance, from the exactness with which the scale may be read off, was proposed by Poggendorff as early as the year 1826. (Annalen der Physik., bd. vii., s. 121.) TIIE DENSITY OF THE EARTH. 35 The torsion-halancc, Cavendish (according to Baily's calcula- tion) 5-448 Reich, L888 6-4 to Baily, 1832 B'660 Reich, L847-1850 5-577 A far more important result in reference to the density of the earth than that obtained by Baily (1842) and Keich (1847-1850) has been brought out by Airy's experiments with the pendulum, conducted with such exemplary care in the Mines of Ilarton, in the year 1854. According to these experiments the density is 6-566, with a probable error of 0-182 (Airy, in the Philos. Transact, for 185G, p. 342). A slight modification of this numerical value, made by Pro- fessor Stokes on account of the effect of the rotation and el- lipticity of the earth, gives the density for Harton, which lies at 54° 48/ north latitude, at 0*565, and for the equator at 6-489. The mean of the two last results gives 5-62 for the density of the earth (taking that of water as 1), and consequently much more than the densest finely granular basalt, which, according to the numerous experiments of Leonhard, varies from 2-95 to 3-67, and more than that of magnetic iron (4*9 to 5*2), and not much less than that of the native arsenic of Marienberg or Joachimsthal. We have already elsewhere observed (Cosmos, vol. i., p. 167) that from the great distribu- tion of secondary and tertiary formations, and of those up- heaved strata which constitute the visible continental part of our earth's surface (the Plutonic and volcanic upheavals beino; scattered in the form of islands over a small area of space), the solid portion of the upper part of the earth's crust possesses a density scarcely reaching from 2*4 to 2-6. If we assume with Rigaud that the relation of the solid to the fluid oceanic surface of our globe is as 10 : 27, and if further we consider that the latter has been found by experiments with the sounding-lead to extend to a depth of 27,700 feet, the whole density of the upper strata, which underlie the dry and oceanic surfaces, scarcely equals 1*5. The distinguished geometrician Plana has correctly observed that the author of the Mecanique Celeste was in error when he ascribed to the upper stratum of the earth a density equal to that of granite, which, moreover, he estimated somewhat highly at 3, which would give him 10-047 for the density of the centre of the earth.* This density would, according to Plana, be 16-27, * Laplace, Micanique Celeste, ed. de 184G, t. v., p. 57. The mean 36 cosmos. if we assume that of the upper strata =1*83, which differs but slightly from the total density of 1*5 or 1*6 of the earth's crust. The vertical pendulum, no less than the horizontal torsion-balance, may certainly be designated as a geognostic instrument ; but the geology of the inaccessible parts of the interior of our globe is, like the astrognosy of the unillumin- ated celestial bodies, to be received with considerable cau- tion. In a portion of my work, which treats of volcanic phenomena, I can not wholly pass in silence those problems which have been suggested by other inquirers in reference to the currents pervading the general fluid in the interior of our planet, or the probable or improbable periodically ebb- ing and flowing movement in individual and imperfectly filled basins, or the existence of portions of space, having a very specific weight of granite can not be set down at more than 2*7, since the bi-axial white potash-mica, and green uni-axial magnesia-mica range from 2-85 to 3*1, while the other constituents of this rock, namely, quartz and feldspar, are 2*56 and 2*65. Even oligoclase is only 2*68. If hornblende rises as high as 3*17, syenite, in which feld- spar always predominates, never rises above 2*8. As argillaceous schist varies from 2*69 to 2*78, while pure dolomite, lying below lime- stone, equals only 2*88, chalk 2-72, and gypsum and rock-salt only 2*3, I consider that the density of those continental parts of the crust of our earth, which are appreciable to us, should be placed at 2*6 rather than at 2-4. Laplace, on the supposition that the earth's density in- creases in arithmetical progression from the surface toward the cen- tre, and on the assumption (which is assuredly erroneous) that the density of the upper stratum is equal to 3, has found 4*7647 for the mean density of the whole earth, which deviates very considerably from the results obtained by Reich (5-577) and by Baily (5*660) ; this deviation being much greater than could be accounted for by the prob- able error of observation. In a recent discussion on the hypothesis of Laplace, which will soon form a very interesting paper in Schu- macher's Astr. Nachrichten, Plana has arrived at the result that, by a different method of treating this hypothesis, Reich's mean density of the earth, and the density of the dry and oceanic superficial strata, which I estimated at 1*6, as well as the ellipticity, within the limits that seem probable for the latter value, may be very closely approxi- mated to. "If the compressibility of the substances of which the earth is formed," writes the Turin geometrician, "has given rise to regular strata nearly elliptical in form, and having a density which increases from the surface toward the centre, we may be allowed to suppose that these strata, in the act of becoming consolidated, have experienced modifications which, although they are actually very small, are nevertheless large enough to preclude the possibility of our deducing, with all the precision that we could desire, the condition of the solid earth from its prior state of fluidity. This reflection has made me attach the greater weight to the first hypothesis advanced by the author of the Mecanique Celeste, and I have consequently determr ined upon submitting it to a new investigation." THE HEAT OF THE EARTH. 37 low specific gravity and underlying the upheaved mountain chains.4 In a work devoted to cosmical phenomena no question should be overlooked on which actual observations have been instituted, or which may seem to be elucidated by close analogies. b. The Existence and Distribution of Heat in the interior of our Globe. (Expansion of the Delineation of Nature, Cosmos, vol. i., p. 1G8-17G.) Considerations regarding the internal heat of our earth, the importance of which has been greatly augmented by the connection which is now generally recognized to exist be- tween it and phenomena of upheavals and of volcanic action, are based partly upon direct, and therefore incontrovertible measurements of temperature in springs, borings, and sub- terranean mines, and partly upon analytical combinations regarding the gradual cooling of our planet, and the influence which the decrease of heat may have exercised in primeval ages upon the velocity of rotation and upon the direction of the currents of internal heat.f The figure of the com- pressed terrestrial spheroid is further dependent upon the law, according to which density increases in concentric su- perimposed non-homogeneous strata. The first or experi- mental, and therefore the more certain portion of the inves- tigation to which we shall limit ourselves in the present place, throws light only upon the accessible crust of the earth, which is of very inconsiderable thickness, while the second or mathematical part, in accordance with the nature of its applications, yields rather negative than positive results. This method of inquiry, which possesses all the charm of ingenious and intellectual combinations of thought^ leads to problems, which can not be wholly overlooked when we touch upon conjectures regarding the origin of volcanic forces, and the reaction of the fused interior upon the solid external crust of our earth. Plato's geognostic myth of the Pyriphlegethon,§ as the origin of all thermic springs, as well * See Petit sur la latitude de T Observatoire de Toulouse, la densite moyenne de la chaine des Pyrenees, et la probability quHl existe un vide sous sette chaine, in the Comptes rendus de I Acad, des Sc, t. xxix., 1849, p. 730. f Cosmos, vol. i., p. 176. % Hopkins, Physical Geology, in the Report of the British Association for 1838, p. 92; Philos. Transact., 1839, pt. ii., p. 381, and 1810, pt. i., p. 193; Hennessey (Terrestrial Physics'), in the Philos. Transact., 1851, pt. ii., p. 504-525. § Cosmos, vol. i., p. 237. 38 cosmos. as of volcanic igneous currents, emanated from the early and generally felt requirement of discovering some common cause for a great and complicated series of phenomena. Amid the multiplicity of relations presented by the earth's surface, in respect to insolation (solar action) and its capacity of radiating heat, and amid the great differences in the ca- pacity for conducting heat, which varies in accordance with the composition and density of heterogeneous rocks, it is worthy of notice, that wherever the observations have been conducted with care, and under favorable circumstances, the increase of the temperature with the depth has been found to present for the most part very closely coinciding results, even at very different localities. For very great depths we obtain the most certain results from Artesian wells, especial- ly when they are filled with fluids that have been rendered turbid by the admixture of clay, and are therefore less favor- able to the passage of internal currents, and when they do not receive many lateral affluents flowing into them at differ- ent elevations through transverse fissures. On account of their depth, we will begin with two of the most remarkable Artesian wells, namely, that of Grenelle, near Paris, and that of the New Salt-works at Oeynhausen, near Minden. We will proceed in the following paragraph to give some of the most accurate results which they have yielded. According to the ingenious measurements of Walferdin,* to whom we are indebted for a complete series of very deli- cate apparatus for determinations of temperature at great depths in the sea and in springs, the surface of the basin of the well at Grenelle lies at an elevation of 36*24 metres, or 119 feet, above the level of the sea. The upper outlet of the ascending spring is 33*33 metres, or 109-3 feet, higher. This total elevation of the ascending water (69-57 metres, or 228*2 feet) is, when compared with the level of the sea, about 196*8 feet lower than the outbreak' of the green sandstone strata in the hills near Lusigny, southeast of Paris, to whose infiltrations the rise of the waters in the Artesian wells at Grenelle have been ascribed. The borings extend to a depth of 547 metres, or 1794-6 feet, below the base of the Grenelle basin, or about 510-76 metres, or 1675 feet, below the level * The observations of Walferdin were made in the autumn of 1847, and deviate very slightly from the results obtained with the same ap- paratus by Arago, in 1840, at a depth of 1G57 feet, when the borer had left the chalk and was beginning to penetrate through the gault. See Cosmos, vol. i., p. 174, and Comptes rendus, t. xi., 1840, p. 707. INTERNAL HEAT OF THE EARTH. 39 of the sea ; the waters, consequently, rise to a total height of 580*33 metres, or 1904 feet. The temperature of the spring is 81°*95 P. ; consequently the increase of heat marks 1° F. for about every 59 feet. The borino; at the New Salt-works at Ilchmc is situated 231 feet above the level of the sea (above the water-mark at Amsterdam). It has penetrated to an absolute depth of 2281 feet below the surface of the earth, measuring from the point where the operations were begun. The salt spring, which, when it bursts forth, is impregnated with a large quantity of carbonic acid, lies, therefore, 2052 feet below the level of the sea — a relative depth which is perhaps the great- est that has ever been reached by man in the interior of the earth. The temperature of the salt spring at the New Salt- works of Oeynhausen is 91° 04 F. ; and, as the mean annual temperature of the air at these works is about 49°-3 F., we may assume that there is an increase of temperature of 1° F. for every 54-68 feet. The boring at these Salt-works* is, therefore, 491 feet absolutely deeper than the boring at Gre- nelle ; it sinks 377 feet deeper below the surface of the sea, and the temperature of its waters is 9°*18 F. higher. The increase of the heat at Paris is about 1° F. for 59 feet, and therefore scarcely -^th greater. I have already elsewhere drawn attention to the fact that a similar result was obtained by Auguste de la Rive and Marcet, at Bregny, near Geneva, in investigating a boring which was only 725 feet in depth, although it was situated at an elevation of more than 1G00 feet above the Mediterranean Sea.f If to these three springs, which possess an absolute depth varying between 725 feet and 2285 feet, we add another, that of Monkwearmouth, near Newcastle (the water rising through a coal-mine which, according to Phillips, is worked * According to the manuscript results given by the superintendent of the mines of Oeynhausen. See Cosmos, vol. i., p. 157, 174; and Bischof, Lehrbuch der Ghem. unci Phys. Geologie, bd. i., abth. 1, s. 154- 1G3. In regard to absolute depth the borings at Mondorf, in the Grand Duchy at Luxemburg (2202 feet), approach most nearly to those at the New Salt-works at Oeynhausen. f Cosmos, vol. i., p. 174 ; and Mcmoires de la Societe d'llist. Naturelle de Geneve, t. vi., 1833, p. 243. The comparison of a number of Arte- sian wells in the neighborhood of Lille with those of Saint Oucn and Geneva would, indeed, lead us to assume, if we were quite certain as to the accuracy of the numerical data, that the different conductive powers of terrestrial and rocky strata exert a more considerable in- fluence than has generally been supposed (Poisson, Thcorie Mathema- tique de la Chaleur, p. 421). 40 COSMOS. at a depth of 1496 feet below the level of the sea), we shall find this remarkable result, that at four places widely sepa- rated from one another an increase of heat of 1° F. varies only between 54 and 58-6 feet;* such a coincidence in the results can not, however, be always expected to occur when we consider the nature of the means which are employed for determining the internal heat of the earth at definite depths. Although we may assume that the water which is infiltrated in elevated positions through hydrostatic pressure, as in con- nected tubes, may influence the rising of springs at points of great depth, and that the subterranean waters acquire the temperature of the terrestrial strata with which they are brought in contact, the water that is obtained through bor- ings may, in certain cases, when communicating with vertic- ally descending fissures, obtain some augmentation of heat from an inaccessible depth. An influence of this kind, which is very different from that of the varying conductive power of different rocks, may occur at individual points widely dis- tant from the original boring. It is probable that the waters in the interior of our earth move in some cases within limit- ed spaces, flowing either in streams through fissures (on which account it is not unusual to find that a few only of a large number of contiguous borings prove successful), or else follow a horizontal direction, and thus form extensive basins — a re- lation wrhich greatly favors the labor of boring, and in some rare cases betrays, by the presence of eels, muscles, or vege- table remains, a connection with the earth's surface. Al- though, from the causes which we have already indicated, the ascending springs are sometimes warmer than the slight depth of the boring would lead us to anticipate, the afflux of colder water which flows laterally through transverse fis- sures leads to an opposite result. It has already been observed that points situated on the same vertical line, at an inconsiderable depth within the in- * In a table of fourteen borings, which were more than one hundred yards in depth, and which were situated in various parts of France, Bravais, in his very instructive encyclopedic memoir in the Patriay 1847, p. 145, indicates nine in which an increase of temperature of 1° F. is found to occur for every 50-70 feet of depth, which would give a deviation of about 10 feet in either direction from the mean value given in the text. See also Magnus, in Poggen., Ann., bd. xxii., 1831, s. 14G. It would appear, on the whole, that the increase of temperature is most rapid in Artesian wells of very considerable depth, although the very deep wells of Monte Massi, in Tuscany, and Neuffen, on the northwest part of the Swabian Alps, present a remarkable ex- ception to this rule. INVARIABLE TEMPERATURE. 41 terior of our earth, experience at very different times the maximum and minimum of atmospheric temperature, which is modified by the sun's place and by the seasons of the year. According to the very accurate observations of Quetelet, daily variations of temperature are not perceptible at depths of 3*ths feet below the surface ;* and at Brussels the high- est temperature was not indicated until the 10th of Decem- ber, in a thermometer which had been sunk to a depth of more than 25 feet, while the lowest temperature was ob- served on the loth of June. In like manner, in the admira- ble experiments made by Professor Forbes, in the neighbor- hood of Edinburgh, on the conductive power of different rocks, the maximum of heat was not observed until the 8th of January in the basaltic trap of Calton Hill, at a depth of 24 feet below the surface.f It would appear, from the ob- servations which were carried on for many years by Arago in the garden of the Paris Observatory, that very small dif- ferences of temperature were perceptible 30 feet below the surface. Bravais calculated one degree for about every 50 feet on the high northern latitude of Bossekop, in Finmark (69° 58' N. lat.). The difference between the highest and lowest annual temperature diminishes in proportion with the depth, and according to Fourrier this difference dimin- ishes in a geometrical proportion as the depth increases in an arithmetical ratio. The stratum of invariable temperature depends, in respect to its depth, conjointly upon the latitude of the place, the con- ductive power of the surrounding strata, and the amount of difference of temperature between the hottest and the coldest seasons of the year. In the latitude of Paris (48° 50') the depth and temperature of the Caves de V Observatoire (86 feet and 53o,30 F.) are usually regarded as affording the amount of depth and temperature of the invariable stratum. Since Cassini andLegentil, in 1783, placed a very correct mercurial thermometer in these subterranean caves, which are portions of old stone quarries, the mercury in the tube has risen about 0°-44 Whether the cause of this rising is to be ascribed to * Quetelet, in the Bultetin de VAcad. de Bruxelles, 1836, p. 75. f Forbes, Exper. on the Temperature of the Earth at different Depths, in the Trans, of the Royal Soc. of Edinburgh, vol. xvi., 1819, pt. ii., p. 189. J All numbers referring to the temperature of the Caves de P Ob- servatoire have been taken from the work of Poisson, Theorie Mathe- matique de la Chaleur, p. 415 and 4G2. The Annuaire Mctcorologique de la France, edited by Martins and Haeghens, 1849, p. 88, contains 42 cosmos. an accidental alteration in the thermometrical scale which, however, was adjusted by Arago in 1817 with his usual care, or whether it indicates an actual increase of heat, is still undecided. The mean temperature of the air at Paris is 51°*478 F. Bravais is of opinion that the thermometer in the Caves de V Observatoire stands below the limit of invari- able temperature, although Cassini believes that he has foun(J a difference of -ninths of a degree (Fahr.) between the winter and summer temperature, the higher temperature being found to prevail in the winter.* If we now take the mean of many observations of the temperature of the soil between the parallels of Zurich (47° 22') and Upsala (59° 51'), we obtain an increase of 1° F. for every 40 feet. Differences of latitude can not produce a difference of more than 12 or 15 feet, which is not marked by any regular alteration from south to north, because the influence which the latitude un- doubtedly exerts is masked within these narrow limits by the influence of the conductive power of the soil, and by errors of observation. As the terrestrial stratum in which we first cease to ob- serve any alteration of temperature through the whole year lies, according to the theory of the distribution of heat, so much the nearer the surface, as the maxima and minima of the mean annual temperature approximate to one another, a consideration of this subject has led my friend Boussingault to the ingenious and convenient method of determining the mean temperature of a place within the tropical regions (es- pecially between 10 degrees north and south of the equator) by observing a thermometer which has been buried 8 or 12 inches below the surface of the soil in some well-protected spot. At different hours and different months of the year, as in the experiments of Captain Hall near the coast of the Choco in Tumaco, those at Salaza in Quito, and those of Boussingault in la Vega de Zupia, Marmato, and Anserma Nuevo in the Cauca valley, the temperature scarcely varied one tenth of a degree ; and almost within the same limits it was identical with the mean temperature of the air at those places in which it had been determined by horary observa- tions. It was, moreover, very remarkable that this identity corrections by Gay-Lussac for Lavoisier's subterranean thermometer. The mean of three readings, from June till August, was 530,95 F. for this thermometer, at a time when Gay-Lussac found the temperature to be 53°*32, which was therefore a difference of 0°"63. * Cassini, in the Man. de VAcad. des Sciences, 178G, p. 511. INVARIABLE STRATUM. 43 remained perfectly uniform, whether the thermometric sound- ings (of less than one foot in depth) were made on the torrid shores of Guayaquil and Payta, on the Pacific, or in an Indian village on the side of the volcano of Purace, which I found from my barometrical measurements to be situated at an elevation of 1356 toises, or 8671 feet above the sea. The mean temperatures differed by fully 25° F. at these different stations.* I believe that special attention is due to two observations which I made on the mountains of Peru and Mexico, in mines which lie at a greater elevation than the summit of the Peak of Teneriffe, and are therefore the highest in which a thermometer has ever been placed. At a height of be- tween 12,000 and 13,000 feet above the level of the sea I found the subterranean air 25° F. warmer than the external atmosphere. Thus, for instance, the little Peruvian town of Micuipampaf lies, according to my astronomical and hypso- * Boussingault, Sur la profondeur a laquelle on trouve dans la zone torride la couche de temperature invariable, in the Annales de Chimie et de Physique, t. liii., 1833, p. 225-217. Objections have been advanced by John Caldecott, the astronomer to the Kajah of Travancore, and by Captain Newbold, in India, against the method recommended in this memoir, although it has been employed in South America in many very accurate experiments. Caldecott found at Trevandrum (Edm. Transact., vol. xvi., part iii., p. 379-393) that the temperature of the soil, at a depth of three feet and more below the surface (and there- fore deeper than Boussingault's calculation), was 85° and 8G° F., while the mean temperature of the air was 80°*02. Newbold's experiments (Philos. Transact for the Year 1815, pt. i., p. 133), which were made at Bellary, lat. 15° 5', showed an increase of temperature of 4° F. be- tween sunrise and 2 P.M. for one foot of depth ; but at Cassargode, lat. 12° 29', there was only an increase of l°-30 F., under a cloudy sky. Is it quite certain that the thermometer in this case was sufficiently covered to protect it from the influence of the sun's rays ? Compare also Forbes, Exper. on the Temp, of the Earth at different Depths, in the Ed'in. Transact., vol. xvi., part ii., p. 189. Colonel A. Costa, the ad- mirable historian of New Granada, has made a prolonged series of ob- servations, which fully confirm Boussingault's statement, and which were completed, about a year ago, at Guadua, on the southwestern side of the elevated plateau of Bogota, where the mean annual tem- perature is 43° -91 F. at the depth of one foot, and at a carefully pro- tected spot. Boussingault thus refers to these experiments: "The observations of Colonel A. Costa, whose extreme precision in every thing which is connected with meteorology is-well known to you, prove that, when fully sheltered from all disturbing influences, the temperature within the tropics remains constant at a very small depth below the surface." t In reference to Gualgayoc (or Minas de Chota) and Micuipampa, see Humboldt, Recueil d Observ. Astron., vol. i-, p. 321. 44 cosmos. metrical observations, in the latitude 6° 43' S., and at an elevation of 1857 toises, or 11,990 feet, at the base of Cerro de Gualgayoc, celebrated for the richness of its silver mines. The summit of this almost isolated fortress-like and pictur- esquely situated mountain rises 240 toises, or 1504 feet, high- er than the streets of Micuipampa ; the external air at a dis- tance from the mouth of the pit of the Mina del Purgatorio was 42°*26 F. ; but in the interior of the mine, which lies more than 2057 toises, or 13,154 feet above the sea, I saw that the thermometer every where indicated a temperature of 67°-64 F., there being thus a difference of 25°-38 F. The limestone rock was here perfectly dry, and very few men were working in the mine. In the Mina de Guadalupe, which lies at the same elevation, I found that the temper- ature of the internal air was 57°*9 F., showing, therefore, a difference of 15°#64 F. when compared with the external air. The water which flowed out from the very damp mine stood at 52°*34 F. The mean annual temperature of Micui- pampa is probably not more than 45°*8 F. In Mexico, in the rich silver mines of Guanaxuato,* I found, in the Mina de Valenciana, the external temperature in the neighborhood of the Tiro Nuevo (which is 7590 feet above the sea) 70°*16 F., and the air in the deepest mines — for instance, in the Planes de San Bernardo — 1630 feet below the opening of the shaft of Tiro Nuevo, fully 80o,6 F., which is about the mean tem- perature of the littoral region of the Gulf of Mexico. At a point 147 feet higher than the mouth of the Planes de San Bernardo, a spring of water issues from the transverse rock, in which the temperature is 84°*74 F. I determined the latitude of the mountain town of Guanaxuato to be 21° 0'N., with a mean annual temperature varying between 60°-44 and 61°-26 F. The present is not a fitting place in which to advance conjectures, which it might be difficult to establish in relation to the causes of probably an entirely local rise of the subterranean temperature at mountain elevations, varying from 6000 to more than 12,000 feet. A remarkable contrast is exhibited in the steppes of Northern Asia, by the conditions of the frozen soil, whose very existence was doubted, notwithstanding the early testi- mony of Gmelin and Pallas. It is only in recent times that correct views in relation to the distribution and thickness of the stratum of subterranean ice have been established by * Essai Polit. sur le Roy. de la Nouv. Espagne (2eme ed., t. iii., p. 201). THE FROZEN SOIL. 45 means of the admirable investigations of Erman, Dacr, and MiddendorfF. In accordance with the descriptions given of Greenland by Cranz, of Spitzbergen by Martens and Phipps, and of the coasts of the sea of Kara by Sujew, the whole of the most northern part of Siberia was described by too husty a generalization as entirely devoid of vegetation, always froz- en on the surface, and covered with perpetual snow, even in the plains. The extreme limit of vegetation in Northern Asia is not, as was long assumed, in the parallel of G7°, al- though sea-winds and the neighborhood of the Bay of Obi make this estimate true for Obdorsk ; for in the valley of the great River Lena high trees grow as far north as the latitude of 71°. Even in the desolate islands of New Si- beria, large herds of rein-deer and countless lemmings find an adequate nourishment.* MiddendorfF's two Siberian expe- ditions, which are distinguished by a spirit of keen observa- tion, adventurous daring, and the greatest perseverance in a laborious undertaking, were extended, from the year 1843 to 1846, as far north as the Taymir land in 75° 45/ lat., and southeast as far as the Upper Amoor and the Sea of Ochotsk. The former of these perilous undertakings led the learned in- vestigator into a hitherto unvisited region, whose exploration was the more important in consequence of its being situated at equal distances from the eastern and western coasts of the old Continent. In addition to the distribution of organisms in high northern latitudes, as depending mainly upon climat- ic relations, it was directed by the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences that the accurate determination of the tempera- ture of the ground and of the thickness of the subterranean frozen soil should be made the principal objects of the expe- dition. Observations were made in borings and mines, at a depth of from 20 to 60 feet, at more than twelve points (near Turuchansk, on the Jenisei, and on the Lena), at relative dis- tances of from 1600 to 2000 geographical miles. The most important seat of these geothermic observations was, however, Schergin's shaft at Jakutsk, 62° 2" N. lat.f * E. von Baer, in Middendorff's Rcise in Sib., bd. i., s. 7. f The merchant Fedor Schergin, cashier to the Russian-American Trading Company, began, in the year 1828, to dig a well in the court- yard of a house belonging to the company. As he had only found frozen earth and no water at the depth of 90 feet, which he reached in 1830, he determined to give up the attempt, until Admiral Wrangel, who passed through Jakutsk on his way to Sitcha, in Russian America, and who saw how interesting it would be, in a scientific point of view, to penetrate through this subterranean stratum of ice, induced Scher- 46 cosmos. Here a subterranean stratum of ice was pierced to a depth of more than 382 feet. The thermometer was sunk at eleven points along the lateral walls of the shaft, between the surface and the greatest depth, which was reached in 1837. The observer was obliged to be let down standing in a bucket, with one arm fastened to a rope, while he read off the ther- mometric scale. The series of observations, whose mean error does not amount to more than 0°*45 F., embrace the interval between April, 1844, and June, 1846. The decrease of cold was not proportional to the depth at individual points, but nevertheless the following results were obtained for the total increase of the mean temperatures for the different superimposed frozen strata : 50 feet 17°-13Fahr. 100 " 20°-26 " 150 " 21°-43 " 200 " 23°-27 " 250 " 24°-49 " 382 " 26°-60 " After a very careful consideration of all these observa- tions, Middendorff determined the general increase of tem- perature to be 1° F. for every space varying from 44°*5 to 52 feet.* This result shows a more rapid increase of heat gin to continue the boring; and up to 1837, although an opening had been made to a depth of 382 feet below the surface, it had not pene- trated bevond the ice. * Middendorff, Reise in Sib., bd. i., s. 125-133. "If we exclude," says Middendorff, " those depths which did not quite reach 100 feet, on the ground that they were influenced by annual deviations of tem- perature, as was determined by experiments previously made in Si- beria, we shall still find certain anomalies in the partial increase of heat. Thus, for instance, between the depths of 150-200 feet the temperature rises at a ratio of 1° F. for only 29 '3 feet, while between 250-300 feet the corresponding increase is 964 feet. We may, there- fore, venture to assert that the results of observations that have hith- erto been obtained in Shergin's shaft are by no means sufficient to determine with certainty the amount of the increase of temperature, and that, notwithstanding the great variations which may depend upon the different conductive powers of the terrestrial strata, and the dis- turbing influence of the air or water which enters from above, an in- crease of 1° F. occurs for every 44-52 feet. The result of 52 feet is the mean of six partial increases of temperature, measured at intervals of 50 feet between the depths of 100 and 382 feet. On comparing the mean annual temperature of Jakutsk, 13° '71 F., with that which was found from observation to be the mean temperature of the ice (26°-6) at the greatest depth of the mine (382 feet), I find 29-6 feet for every increase of 1° F. A comparison of the. temperature at the deepest part with that at a depth of 100 feet would give 44 '4 feet for THE TEMPERATURE OF THE EARTH. 47 in Schergin's shaft than has been obtained from different borings in Central Europe, whose results approximate closely to one another (see p. 39). The difference fluctuates be- tween ]th and Jth. The mean annual temperature of Ja- kutsk was determined at 13°*7 F. The oscillation between the summer and winter temperature is so great, according to Newerow's observations, which were continued for fifteen years (from 1829 to 1844), that sometimes for fourteen days consecutively, in July and August, the atmospheric tempera- ture rises as high as 77°, or even 84°-6 F. ; while during 120 consecutive winter days, from November to February, the cold falls to between — 42°-3 F. and — G9° F. In estimat- ing the increase of temperature which was found on boring through the frozen soil, we must take into account the depth below the surface at which the ice exhibits the temperature of 32° F., and which is consequently the nearest to the lower limit of the frozen soil ; according to Middendorff 's results, which entirely agree with those that had been obtained much earlier by Erman, this point was found in Schergin's shaft to be 652, or 684 feet below the surface. It would appear, however, from the increase of temperature which was ob- this increase. From the acute investigations of Middendorff and Peters, in reference to the velocity of transmission of changes of at-= mospheric temperature, including the maxima of cold and heat (Mid- dend., s. 133-157, 1G8-175), it follows that in the different borings, which do not exceed the inconsiderable depth of from 8 to 20 feet, " the temperature rises from March to October, and falls from Novem- ber to April, because the spring and autumn are the seasons of the year in which the changes of atmospheric temperature are most con- siderable" (s. 112-145). Even carefully covered mines in Northern Siberia become gradually cooled, in consequence of the walls of the shafts having been for years in contact with the air ; this cause, how- ever, has only made the temperature fall about 1° F. in Schergin's shaft, in the course of eighteen years. A remarkable and hitherto un- explained phenomenon, which has also presented itself in the Scher- gin shaft, is the warmth occasionally observed in the winter, although only at the lowest strata, without any appreciable influence from with- out (s. 156-178). It seems still more striking to me, that in the bor- ings at Wedensk, on the Pasina, when the atmospheric temperature is —31° F., it should be 26°--4 at the inconsiderable depth of 5 or 10 feet ! The isogeothermal lines, whose direction was first pointed out by Kupffer in his admirable investigations (Cos7nos, vol. i., p. 219), will long continue to present problems that we are unable to solve. The solution of these problems is more especially difficult in those cases in which the complete perforation of the frozen soil is a work of con- siderable time ; we can, however, no longer regard the frozen soil at Jakutsk as a merely local phenomenon, which, in accordance with Slobin's view, is produced by the terrestrial strata deposited from wa- ter (Middend., s. 167). 48 cosmos. served in the mines of Mangan, Shilow, and Dawydow, which are situated at about three or four miles from Irkutsk, in the chain of hills on the left bank of the Lena, and which are scarcely more than 60 feet in depth, that the normal stratum of perpetual frost seems to be situated at 320 feet below the surface.* Is this inequality only apparent in consequence of the uncertainty which attaches to a numerical determina- tion, based on so inconsiderable a depth, and does the in- crease of temperature obey different laws at different times'? Is it certain that if we were to make a horizontal section of several hundred fathoms from the deepest part of Schergin's shaft into the adjoining country, we should find in every di- rection and at every distance from the mine frozen soil, in which the thermometer would indicate a temperature of 4°#5 below the freezing point ? Schrenk has examined the frozen soil in 67° 30' N. lat., in the country of the Samojedes. In the neighborhood of Pustojenskoy Gorodok, fire is employed to facilitate the sinking of wells, and in the middle of summer ice was found at only 5 feet below the surface. This stratum could be traced for nearly 70 feet, when the works were suddenly stopped. The inhabitants were able to sledge over the neighboring lake of Usteje throughout the whole of the sum- mer of 1813.| During my Siberian expedition with Ehren- berg and Gustav Rose, we caused a boring to be made in a piece of turfy ground near Bogoslowsk (59° 44' N. lat.), among the Ural Mountains, on the road to the Turjin mines. | We found pieces of ice at the depth of 5 feet, which were imbedded, breccia-like, in the frozen ground, below which began a stratum of thick ice, which we had not penetrated at the depth of 10 feet. The geographical extension of the frozen ground, that is to say, the limits within which ice and frozen earth are found at a certain depth, even in the month of August, and conse- * Middendorff, bd. i., s. 160, 164, 179. In these numerical data and conjectures regarding the thickness of the frozen soil, it is assumed that the temperature increases in arithmetical progression with the depth. Whether a retardation of this increase occurs in greater depths is theoretically uncertain, and hence there is no use in entering upon deceptive calculations regarding the temperature of the centre of the earth in the fused heterogeneous rocky masses which give rise to cur- rents. t Schrenk's Reise durch die Tundern der Samojeden, 1848, th. i., s. 597. X Gustav Rose, Reise nach dem Ural, bd. i., s. 428. THE FROZEN SOIL. 49 quently throughout the whole year, in the most northern parts of the Scandinavian peninsula, as far east as the coasts of Asia, depends, according to Middendorff's acute observa- tions (like all geothermal relations), more upon local influ- ences than upon the temperature of the atmosphere. The influence of the latter is, on the whole, no doubt, stronger than any other ; but the isogeothermal lines are not, as Kupf- fer has remarked, parallel in their convex and concave curves to climatic isothermal lines, which are determined by the means of the atmospheric temperature. The infiltration of liquid vapors deposited by the air, the rising of thermal springs from a depth, and the varying conductive powers of the soil, appear to be especially active.* " On the most northern point of the European continent, in Finmark, be- tween the high latitudes of 70° and 71°, there is as yet no continuous tract of frozen soil. To the eastward, im- pinging upon the valley of the Obi, 5° south of the North Cape, we find frozen ground at Obdorsk and Beresow. To the east and southeast of this point the cold of the soil in- creases, excepting at Tobolsk, on the Irtisch, where the tem- perature of the soil is colder than at Witimsk, in the valley of the Lena, which lies 1 ° farther north. Turuchansk (65 ° 54/ N. lat.) on the Jenisei, is situated upon an unfrozen soil, al- though it is close to the limits of the ice. The soil at Am- ginsk, southeast of Jakutsk, presents as low a temperature as that of Obdorsk, which lies 5° farther north; the same being' the case with Oleminsk, on the Jenisei. From the Obi to the latter river the curve formed by the limits of the frozen soil seems to rise a couple of degrees farther north, after which it intersects, as it turns southward, the Lena valley, almost 8° south of the Jenisei. Farther eastward, this line again rises in a northerly direction."! KupfFer, who has visited the mines of Nertshinsk, draws attention to the fact that, independently of the continuous northern mass * Compare my friend G. von Helmersen's experiments on the rela- tive conductive powers of different kinds of rocks (Mem. de V Academic de St. Petersbourg : Melanges Physiques et Chimiqucs, 1851, p. 32). f Middendorff, bd. i., s. 166. Compare also s. 179. " The curve representing the commencement of the freezing of the soil in North- ern Asia exhibits two convexities, inclining southward, one on tho Obi, which is very inconsiderable, and the other on the Lena, which is much more strongly marked. The limit of the frozen soil passes from Berresow, on the Obi, toward Turuchansk, on the Jenisei; it then runs between Witimsk and Oleminsk, on the right bank of tho Lena, and, ascending northward, turns to the east." Vol. V.— C 50 COSMOS. of frozen soil, the phenomenon occurs in an island-like form in the more southern districts, but in general it is entirely- independent of the limits of vegetation, or of the growth of timber. It is a very considerable advance in our knowledge, when we are able gradually to arrive at general and sound cosmical views of the relations of temperature of our earth in the northern portions of the old continent, and to recognize the fact that under different meridians the limits of the frozen soil, as well as those of the mean annual temperature and of the growth of trees, are situated at very different lati- tudes ; whence it is obvious that continuous currents of heat must be generated in the interior of our planet. Franklin found in the northwest part of America that the ground was frozen even in the middle of August at a depth of 16 inches ; while Richardson observed, upon a more eastern point of the coast, in 71° 12' lat., that the ice-stratum was thawed in July as low as three feet beneath the herb-covered surface. Would that scientific travelers would afford us more general information regarding the geothermal relations in this part of the earth and in the southern hemisphere ! An insight into the connection of phenomena is the most certain means of leading us to the causes of apparently involved anomalies, and to the comprehension of that which we are apt too hastily to regard as at variance with normal laws. c. Magnetic Activity of the Earth in its three Manifestations of Force — Intensity, Inclination, and Variation. — Points (called the Magnetic Poles) in which the Inclination is 90°. — Curves on which no Inclination is observed (Magnetic Equator). — The Four different Maxima of Intensity. — Curve of weakest Intensity. — Extraordinary Disturbances of the Declination (Magnetic Storms). — Polar Light. (Extension of the Picture of Nature, Cosmos, vol. i., p. 176-202; vol. ii., p. 333-336 ; and vol. iv., p. 82-86.) The magnetic constitution of our planet can only be de- duced from the many and various manifestations of terres- trial force in as far as it presents measurable relations in space and time. These manifestations have the peculiar property of exhibiting perpetual variability of phenomena to a much higher degree even than the temperature, gaseous admixture, and electrical tension of the lower strata of the atmosphere. Such a constant change in the nearly-allied THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE. 51 magnetic and electrical conditions of matter, moreover, es- sentially distinguishes the phenomena of electro-magnetism from those which are influenced by the primitive fundament- al force of matter — its molecular attraction and the attrac- tion of masses at definite distances. To establish laws in that which is ever varying is, however, the highest object of every investigation o£ a physical force. Although it has been shown by the labors of Coulomb and Arago that the electro-magnetic process may be excited in the most vari- ous substances, it has nevertheless been proved by Faraday's brilliant discovery of diamagnetism (by the differences of the direction of the axes, whether they incline north and south, or east and west) that the heterogeneity of matter exerts an influence distinct from the attraction of masses. Oxygen gas, when inclosed in a thin glass tube, will show itself un- der the action of a magnet to be paramagnetic, inclining north and south like iron; and while nitrogen, hydrogen, and carbonic acid gases remain unaffected, phosphorus, leather, and wood show themselves to be diamagnetic, and arrange themselves equatorially from east to west. The ancient Greeks and Romans were acquainted with the adhesion of iron to the magnet, attraction and repulsion, and the transmission of the attracting action through brass vessels as well as through rings, which were strung together in a chain-like form, as long as one of the rings was kept in contact with the magnet ;* and they wrere likewise acquaint- ed with the non-attraction of wood and of all metals, except- ing iron. The force of polarity, which the magnet is able to impart to a movable body susceptible of its influence, was entirely unknown to the Western nations (Phoenicians, Tuscans, Greeks, and Romans). The first notice which we meet with among the nations of Western Europe of the knowledge of this force of polarity, which has exerted so im- portant an influence on the improvement and extension of navigation, and which, from its utilitarian value, has led so continuously to the inquiry after one universally diffused, although previously unobserved force of nature, does not date farther back than the 11th and 12th centuries. In the history and enumeration of the principal epochs of a physic- * The principal passage referring to the magnetic chain of rings occurs in Plato's Ion., p. 533, D.E, ed. Steph. Mention has been made of this transmission of the attracting action not only by Pliny (xxxiv., 14) and Lucretius (vi., 910), but also by Augustine (De civitate Dei, xx., 4) and Philo {De Mundi opijicio, p. 32 D, ed. lGiil ). 52 cosmos. al contemplation of the universe, it has been found necessa- ry to divide into several sections, and to notice, the sources from which we derive our knowledge of that which we have here summarily arranged under one common point of view.* We find that the application among the Chinese of the directive power of the magnet, or the use of the north and south direction of magnetic needles floating on the surface of water, dates to an epoch which is probably more ancient than the Doric migration and the return of the Heraclidae into the Peloponnesus. It seems, moreover, very striking that the use of the south direction of the needle should have been first applied in Eastern Asia not to navigation but to land traveling. In the anterior part of the magnetic wagon a freely floating needle moved the arm and hand of a small figure, which pointed toward the south. An apparatus of this kind (called fse-nan, indicator of the south) was present- ed during the dynasty of the Tscheu, 1100 years before our era, to the embassadors of Tonquin and Cochin-China, to guide them over the vast plains which they would have to cross in their homeward journey. The magnetic wagon was used as late as the 15 th century of our era.f Several of these wagons were carefully preserved in the imperial pal- ace, and were employed in the building of Buddhist monas- teries in fixing the points toward which the main sides of the edifice should be directed. The frequent application of magnetic apparatus gradually led the more intelligent of the people to physical considerations regarding the nature of magnetic phenomena. The Chinese eulogist of the magnet- ic needle, Kuopho (a writer of the age of Constantine the Great), compares, as I have already elsewhere remarked, the attractive force of the magnet with that of rubbed amber. This force, according to him, is " like a breath of wind * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 188 ; vol. ii., p. 253. f Humboldt, Asie Centrale, t. i., p. xl.-xlii. ; and Examen Grit, de VHist. de la Geographie, t. iii., p. 35. Eduard Biot, who has extend- ed and confirmed by his own careful and bibliographical studies, and with the assistance of my learned friend Stanislas Julien, the inves- tigations made by Klaproth in reference to the epoch at which the magnetic needle was first used in China, adduces an old tradition, according to which the magnetic wagon was already in use in the reign of the Emperor Hoang-ti. No allusion to this tradition can, however, be found in any writers prior to the early Christian ages. This cele- brated monarch is presumed to have lived 2600 years before our era (that is to say, 1000 years before the expulsion of the Hyksos from Egypt). Ed. Biot, sur la direction de Vaicjuille aimantee en Cliine ia the Comptes rendus de VAcad. des Sciences, t. xix., 1814, p. 822. THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE. 53 which mysteriously breathes through these two bodies, and has the property of thoroughly permeating them with the rapidity of an arrow." The symbolical expression of " breath of wind" reminds us of the equally symbolical designation of sou/, which in Grecian antiquity was applied by Thales, the founder of the Ionian School, to both these attracting sub- stances— soul signifying here the inner principle of the mov- ing agent.* As the excessive mobility of the floating Chinese needles rendered it difficult to observe and note down the indications which they afforded, another arrangement was adopted in their place as early as the 12th century of our era, in which the needle that was freely suspended in the air was attached to a fine cotton or silken thread exactly in the same manner as Coulomb's suspension, which was first used by William Gilbert in Western Europe. By means of this more perfect apparatus,! the Chinese as early as the beginning of the 12th century determined the amount of the wrestern variation, which in that portion of Asia seems only to undergo very in- considerable and slow changes. From its use on land, the compass was finally adapted to maritime purposes, and under the dynasty of Tsin, in the 4th century of our era, Chinese vessels under the guidance of the compass visited Indian ports and the eastern coast of Africa. Fully 200 years earlier, under the reign of Marcus Aure- lius Antoninus, who is called An-tun by the writers of the . * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 188. Aristotle {De Anhna, i., 2) speaks only of the animation of the magnet as of an opinion that originated with Thales. Diogenes Laertius interprets this statement as applying also distinctly to amber, for he says, "Aristotle and Hippias maintain as to the doctrine enounced by Thales." . . . The sophist Hippias of Elis, who flattered himself that he possessed universal knowledge, oc- cupied himself with physical science and with the most ancient tradi- tions of the physiological school. ' ' The attracting breath," which, ac- cording to the Chinese physicist, Kuopho, "permeates both the mag- net and amber," reminds us, according to Buschmann's investigations into the Mexican language, of the aztec name of the magnet tlaihio- anani tetl, signifying "the stone which attracts by its breath" (from ihiotl, breath, and ana, to draw or attract). f The remarks which Klaproth has extracted from the Penthsaoyan regarding this singular apparatus are given more fully in the Mung- khi-pi-than, Comptes rendus, t. xix., p. 365. We may here ask why, in this latter treatise, as well as in a Chinese book on plants, it is stated that the cypress turns toward the west, and, more generally, that the magnetic needle points toward the south ? Does this imply a more luxuriant development of the branches on the side nearest the sun, or in consequence of the direction of the prevalent winds ? 54 cosmos. dynasty of Han, Roman legates came by sea by way of Ton- quin to China. The application of the magnetic needle to European navigation was, however, not owing to so transient a source of intercourse ; for it was not until its use had be- come general throughout the whole of the Indian Ocean, alono; the shores of Persia and Arabia, that it was introduced into the West in the 12th century, either directly through the influence of the Arabs or through the agency of the Cru- saders, who since 1096 had been brought in contact with Egypt and the true Oriental regions. In historical investi- gations of this nature, we can only determine with certainty those epochs which must be considered as the latest limits beyond which it would be impossible for us to urge our in- quiries. In the politico-satirical poem of Guyot of Provins, the mariner's compass is spoken of (1199) as an instrument that had been long known to the Christian world ; and this is also the case in the description of Palestine, which we owe to the Bishop of Ptolemais, Jaques de Vitry, and which was completed between the years 1204 and 1215. Guided by the magnetic needle, the Catalans sailed along the northern islands of Scotland as well as along the western shores of tropical Africa, the Basques ventured forth in search of the whale, and the Northmen made their way to the Azores (the Bracir islands of Picigano). The Spanish Leyes de las Par- tidas {del sabio JRey Don Alonso el nono), belonging to the first half of the 13th century, extolled the magnetic needle as " the true mediatrix (medianera) between the magnetic stone {la ■piedrci) and the north star." Gilbert also, in his celebrated work De Magnete Physiologia Nova, speaks of the mariner's compass as a Chinese invention, although he inconsiderately adds that Marco Polo, " qui apud Chinas artem pyxidis di- dicit," first brought it to Italy. As, however, Marco Polo began his travels in 1271, and returned in 1295, it is evident, from the testimony of Guyot of Provins and Jaques de Vi- try, that the compass was, at all events, used in European seas from 60 to 70 years before Marco Polo set forth on his journeyings. The designations zohron and aphron, which Vincent of Beauvais applied, in his Mirror of Nature, to the southern and northern ends of the magnetic needle (1254), seem to indicate that it was through Arabian pilots that Eu- ropeans became possessed of the Chinese compass. These designations point to the same learned and industrious nation of the Asiatic peninsula whose language too often vainly ap- peals to us in our celestial maps and globes. VARIATION CHARTS. 55 From the remarks which I have already made, there can scarcely be a doubt that the general application of the mag- net ie needle by Europeans to oceanic navigation as early as the 12th century, and perhaps even earlier in individual cases, originally proceeded from the basin of the Mediterranean. The most essential share in its use seems to have belonged to the Moorish pilots, the Genoese, Venetians, Majorcans, and Catalans. The latter people, under the guidance of their celebrated countryman, the navigator, Don Jaime Fer- rer, penetrated, in 1346, to the mouth of the Rio de Ouro (23° 40' N. lat.), on the western coast of Africa; and, ac- cording to the testimony of Raymundus Lullus (in his nauti- cal work, Fenix de las Maravillas del Orbe, 1286), the Barce- lonians employed atlases, astrolabes, and compasses, long be- fore Jaime Ferrer. The knowledge of the amount of magnetic variation is of a very early date, and was simultaneously imparted by the Chinese to Indian, Malay, and Arabian seamen, through whose agency it must necessarily have spread along the shores of the Mediterranean. This element of navigation, which is so indispensable to the correction of a ship's reck- oning, was then determined less by the rising and setting of the sun than by the polar star, and in both cases the determ- ination was very uncertain ; notwithstanding which, we find it marked down upon charts, as, for instance, upon the very scarce atlas of Andrea Bianco, which was drawn out in the year 1436. Columbus, who had no.more claim than Sebas- tian Cabot to be regarded as the first discoverer of the vari- ation of the magnetic needle, had the great merit of determ- ining astronomically the position of a line of no variation 2-^-° east of the island of .Corvo, in the Azores, on the 13th of September, 1492. He found, as he penetrated into the western part of the Atlantic Ocean, that the variation pass- ed gradually from northeast to northwest. This observation led him to the idea, which has so much occupied navigators in later times, of finding the longitude by the position of the curves of variation, which he still imagined to be parallel to the meridian. We learn from his ship's log that when he was uncertain of his position during his second voyage (1496), he actually endeavored to steer his way by observ- ing the declination. The insight into the possibility of such a method was undoubtedly that uncommunicable secret of longitude which Sebastian Cabot boasted on his death-bed of having acquired through special divine manifestation. 56 cosmos. The idea of a curve of no declination in the Atlantic was associated in the easily excited fancy of Columbus with oth- er somewhat vague views of alterations of climate, of an anomalous configuration of the earth, and of extraordinary motions of the heavenly bodies, in which he found a motive for converting a physical into a political boundary line. Thus the raya, on which the agujas de marear point directly to the polar star, became the line of demarkation between the king- doms of Portugal and Castille ; and from the importance of determining with astronomical exactness the geographical length of such a boundary in both hemispheres, and over ev- ery part of the earth's surface, an arrogant Papal decree, al- though it failed in effecting this aim, nevertheless exerted a beneficial effect on the extension of astronomico-nautical science and on the improvement of magnetic instruments. (Humboldt, Examen Crit. de la Ge'og., t. iii., p. 54.) Felipe Guillen, of Seville, in 1525, and probably still earlier the cosmographer Alonso de Santa Cruz, teacher of mathematics to the young Emperor Charles V., constructed new variation compasses by which solar altitudes could be taken. The lat- ter in 1530, and therefore fully 150 years before Halley, drew up the first general variation chart, although it was certain- ly based upon very imperfect materials. "We may form some idea of the interest that had been excited in reference to terrestrial magnetism in the 16th century, after the death of Columbus, and during the contest regarding the line of demarkation, when we find that Juan Jayme made a voyage in 1585, with Francisco Gali, from the Philipines to Aca- pulco, for the sole purpose of testing by a long trial in the South Sea a Declinatorium of his own invention. Amid this generally diffused taste for practical observa- tion we trace the same tendency to theoretical speculations which always accompanies or even more frequently precedes the former. Many old traditions current among Indian and Arabian sailors speak of rocky islands which bring death and destruction to the hapless mariner, by attracting, through their magnetic force, all the iron which connects together the planks of the ship, or even by immovably fixing the en- tire vessel. The effect of such delusions as these was to give rise to a conception of the concurrence, at the poles, of lines of magnetic variation, represented materially under the image of a high magnetic rock lying near one of the poles. On the remarkable chart of the New Continent, which was added to the Latin edition of 1508 of the Geography of FIRST USE OF THE LOG. 57 Ptolemy, wo find that north of Greenland (Gmentlant), which is represented as belonging to the eastern portion of Asia, the north magnetic pole is depicted as an insular mountain. Its position was gradually marked as being far- ther south in the Breve Comjiendio tie la Sphera, by Martin Cortez, 1545, as well as in the Geographic* di Tolomeoy of Liveo Sanuto, 1588. The attainment of this point, called el calamitico, was associated with great expectations, since it was supposed in accordance with a delusion, which was not dissipated till long afterward, that some miraculoso stupe ndo effetto would be experienced by those who reached it. Until toward the end of the ICth century men occupied themselves only with those phenomena of variation which exerted a direct influence on the ship's reckoning and the de- termination of its place at sea. Instead of the one line of no variation, which had been found by Columbus in 1492, the learned Jesuit, Acosta, who had been instructed by Portu- guese pilots (1589), expressed the belief, in his admirable Historia Natural de las Indias, that he was able to indicate four such lines. As the ship's reckoning, together with the accurate determination of the direction (or of the angle measured by the corrected compass), also requires the dis- tance the ship had made, the introduction of the log, al- though this mode of measuring is even at the present day very imperfect, nevertheless marked an important epoch in the history of navigation. I believe that I have proved, al- though contrary to previously adopted opinions, that the first certain evidence of the use of the log* (la cadena de la popa, la corredera) occurs in the journal which was kept by An- tonio Pigafetta during the voyage of Magellan, and which refers to the month of January, 1521. Columbus, Juan de la Cosa, Sebastian Cabot, and Vasco de Gama, were not ac- quainted with the log and its mode of application, and they * Cosmos, vol. ii., p. 256-258. In the time of King Edward III. of England, when, as Sir Harris Nicolas (History of the Royal Navy, 1847, vol. ii., p. 180) has shown, ships were guided by the compass, which was then called the sail-stone dial, sailing -needle, or adamant, we find it expressly stated in the accounts of the expenses for equip- ping the king's ship, The George, in the year 1345, that sixteen hour- glasses had been bought in Flanders. This statement, however, is by no means a proof of the use of the log. The ampolletas (or hour- glasses) of the Spaniards were, as we most plainly find from the statements of Enciso in Cespides, in use long before the introduc- tion of the log, " echando punto por fantasia in la corredera de los perezosos." C2 58 • cosmos. estimated the ship's speed merely by the eye, while they found the distance they had made by the running down of the sand in the glasses known as ampolletas. For a considerable pe- riod the horizontal declination from the north pole was the only element of magnetic force that was made use of, but at length (in 1576) the second element, inclination, began to be first measured. Robert Norman was the first who determ- ined the inclination of the magnetic needle in London, which he noted with no slight degree of accuracy by means of an inclinatorium, which he had himself invented. It was not until 200 years afterward that attempts were made to meas- ure the third element, the intensity of the magnetic terrestrial force. About the close of the 16th century, William Gilbert, a man who excited the admiration of Galileo, although his merits were wholly unappreciated by Bacon, first laid down comprehensive views of the magnetic force of the earth.* He clearly distinguished magnetism from electricity by their several effects, although he looked upon both as emanations of one and the same fundamental force, pervading all matter. Like other men of genius, he had obtained many happy re- sults from feeble analogies, and the clear views which he had taken of terrestrial magnetism (de magno magnete tellure) led him to ascribe the magnetization of the vertical iron rods on the steeples of old church towers to the effect of this force. He, too, was the first in Europe who showed that iron might be rendered magnetic by being touched with the magnet, al- though the Chinese had been aware of the fact nearly 500 years before him.f Even then, Gilbert gave steel the pref- erence over soft iron, because the former has the power of more permanently retaining the force imparted to it, and of thus becoming for a longer time a conductor of magnetism. In the course of the 17th century, the navigation of the * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 177. Calamitico was the name given to these instruments in consequence of the first needles for the compass hav- ing been made in the shape of a frog. t See Gilbert, Physiologia Nova de Magnete, lib. iii., cap. viii., p. 121. Even Pliny (Cosmos, vol. i., p. 177) remarks generally, without, how- ever, referring to the act of touching, that magnetism may be impart- ed for a long period of time to iron. Gilbert expresses himself as follows in reference to the vulgar opinion of a magnetic mountain: " Vulgaris opinio de montibus magneticis aut rupe aliqua magnetica, de polo phantastico a polo mundi distante" (1. c. p. 42-98). The va- riation and advance of the magnetic lines were entirely unknown to him. " Varietas uniuscujusque loci constans est" (1. c. 42, 98, 152, 153). THE MAGNETIC TOLES. 59 Netherlander?, British, Spaniards, and French, which had been so widely extended by more perfect methods of determ- ining the direction and length of the ship's course, increased the knowledge of those lines of no variation which, as I have already remarked, Father Acofita had endeavored to reduce into a system.* Cornelius Van Schoutcn indicated, in 1G1G, points lying in the midst of the Pacilic and southeast of the Marquesas Islands in which the variation was null. Even now there lies in this region a singular, closed system of isogonic lines, in which every group of the internal concentric curves indicates a smaller amount of variation.! The emulation which was exhibited in trying to find methods for determin- ing longitudes, not only by means of the variation, but also by the inclination (which, when it was observed under a cloudy, starless sky, aere caliginoso,% was said by Wright to be "worth much gold"), led to the multiplication of instru- ments for magnetic observations, while it tended, at the same time, to increase the activity of the observers. The Jesuit Cabeus of Ferrara, Bidley, Lieutaud (16G8), and Henry Bond (1676), distinguished themselves in this manner. Indeed, the contest between the latter and Beckborrow, together with Acosta's view that there were four lines of no variation which divided the entire surface of the earth, may very prob- ably have had some influence on the theory advanced in 1683 by Halley, of four magnetic poles or points of convergence. Halley is identified with an important epoch in the history of terrestrial magnetism. He assumed that there was in each hemisphere a magnetic pole of greater and lesser intens- ity, consequently four points with 90° inclination of the needle, precisely as we now find among the four points of greatest intensity an analogous inequality in the maximum of intensity for each hemisphere, that is to say, in the rapid- ity of the oscillations of the needle in the direction of the magnetic meridian. The pole of greatest intensity was situ- * Historia Natural de las Indias, lib. i., cap. 17. f Cosmos, vol. i., p. 181. J In the very careful observations of inclination which I made on the Pacific, I demonstrated the conditions under which an acquaintance with the amount of the inclination may be of important practical util- ity in the determination of the latitude during the prevalence, on the coasts of Peru, of the Garua, when both the sun and stars are obscured {Cosmos, vol. i., p. 180). The Jesuit Cabeus, author of the Philoso- phia Magnetica (in qua nova quajdam pyxis cxplicatur, quae poli ckv as volcanic emissions, I have treated on a former oc- 216 COSMOS. If the oldest formations of eruptive rock (often perfectly similar to the more recent lavas in its composition), which also in part occupy veins, are to be ascribed to a previous fissure of the deeply-shaken crust of the earth, as I have long been inclined to think, both these fissures and the less simple craters of elevation subsequently produced must be regarded only as volcanic eruptive orifices, not as volcanoes themselves. The principal character of these last consists in a connection of the deep-seated focus with the atmosphere, which is either permanent, or at least renewed from time to time. For this purpose the volcano requires a peculiar frame- works for, as Seneca* says very appropriately, in a letter to Lucilius, "ignis in ipso monte non alimentum habet, sed viam." The volcanic activity exerts, therefore, a formative action by elevating the soil ; and not, as was at one time uni- versally and exclusively supposed, a building action by the accumulation of cinders, and new strata of lava, superposed one upon the other. The resistance experienced in the canal of eruption, by the masses in a stat§ of igneous fluidity when forced in excessive quantities toward the surface, gives rise to the increase in the heaving force. A " vesicular inflation of the soil" is produced, as is indicated by the regular outward declination of the elevated strata. A mine-like explosion, the bursting of the central and highest part of the convex inflation of the soil, gives origin sometimes only to what Leopold von Buch has called a crater of elevation^ that is to casion {Cosmos, vol. i., p. 237), and I shall only advert here to an- other passage in Strabo (vi., p. 269), in which hardening lava, called 7T7]\ug jitXac, is most distinctly characterized. In the* description of JEtna we find : " The red-hot stream (pvat,) in the act of solidifica- tion converts the surface of the earth into stone to a considerable depth, so that whoever wishes to uncover it must undertake the labor of quarrying. For, as in the craters, the stone is molten and then up- heaved, the fluid streaming from the summit is a black excrementitious mass (7r/;\oc) falling down the mountain, which, afterward hardening, becomes a millstone, and retains the same color that it had before." * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 239. f Leopold von Buch, On Basaltic Islands and Craters of Elevation, in the Abhandl. der kbnig.Akad. der Wiss. zu Berlin, 1818-1819, s. 51; and Phjsilcalische Beschreibung der canarischen Inseln, 1825, s. 213, 262, 284, 313, 323, and 341. This work, which constitutes an era in the profound knowledge of volcanic phenomena, is the fruit of a voyage to Madeira and TenerifFe, from the beginning of April to the end of October, 1815 ; but Naumann indicates with much justice, in his Lehr- bnch der Geognosie, that in the letters written in 1802 by Leopold von Buch, from Auvergne (Gcognostische Beobachtung auf Iieisen durch Deutscliknd und Itodien, bd. ii., s. 282), in reference to the description CRATERS OF ELEVATION. 217 say, a crater-like, round or oval depression, bounded by a circle of elevation, a ring-shaped wall, usually broken down in places ; sometimes (when the frame-work of a permanent volcano is to be completed) to a dome-shaped or conical mountain in the middle of the crater of elevation. The latter is then generally open at its summit, and on the bot- tom of this opening (the crater of the permanent volcano) rise transitory hills of eruption and hills of scoria;, small and large cones of eruption, which, in Vesuvius, sometimes far exceed the margins of the crater of the cone of elevation. The signs of the first eruption, the old frame-work, are not, however, always retained. The high wall of rock which sur- rounds the inner circular wall (the crater of elevation) is not recognizable, even in scattered detritus, on many of the larg- est and most active volcanoes. It is a great merit of modern times not only to have more accurately investigated the peculiar conditions of the forma- tion of volcanoes by a careful comparison of those which are widely separated from each other, but also to have intro- duced more definite expressions into language, by which the heterogeneous features of the general outline, as well as the manifestations of volcanic activity, are distinguished. If we of Mont d'Or, the theory of craters of elevation and their essential dif- ference from the true A-olcanoes was already expressed. An instruct- ive counterpart to the three craters of elevation of the Canary Islands (on Gran Canaria, Teneriffe, and Palma) is furnished by the Azores. The admirable maps of Captain Vidal, for the publication of which we are indebted to the English Admiralty, elucidate the wonderful geog- nostic construction of these islands. On San Michael is situated the enormous Caldeira das sete Cidades which was formed in the year 1444, almost under Cabral's eyes, a crater of elevation which incloses two lakes, the Lagoa grande and the Lagoa azul, at a height of 876 feet. The Caldeira de Corvo, of which the dry part of the bottom is 1279 feet high, is almost of the same circumference. Nearly three times this height are the craters of elevation of Fayal and Terceira. To the same kind of eruptive phenomena belong the innumerable but ephem- eral platforms which were visible only by day, in 1691, in the sea around the island of San George, and in 1757 around San Michael. The periodical inflation of the sea-bottom, scarcely four miles to the west of the Caldeira das sete Cidades, producing a larger and some- what more permanent island (Sabrina), has already been mentioned (Cosmos, vol. i., p. 242). Upon the crater of elevation of Astruni, in the Phlegrseah plains, and the trachytic mass driven up in its centre, as an unopened bell-shaped hill, see Leopold von Buch, in Poggend., Annate n, bd. xxxvii., s. 171 and 182. A fine crater of elevation is that of Rocca Monfina, measured and figured in Abich's Geolog. Beobacht, iiber die Vulkan. Erschein, in Unter-und Mittel Italian, 1841, bd. i., s. 113, taf. ii. Vol. V.— K 218 cosmos. are not decidedly disinclined to all classifications, because in the endeavor after generalization these always rest only upon imperfect indications, we may conceive the bursting forth of fused masses and solid matter, vapors and gases, in four dif- ferent ways. Proceeding from the simple to the complex phenomena, we may first mention eruptions from fissures, not forming separate series of cones, but producing volcanic rocks superlying each other, in a fused and viscid state; secondly, eruptions through heaped-up cones, without any cir- cumvallation, and yet emitting streams of lava, as was the case for five years during the destruction of the island of Lancerote, in the first half of the last century ; thirdly, aba- ters of elevation, with upheaved strata, but without central cones, emitting streams of lava only on the outside of the circumvallation, never from the interior, which is soon closed up with detritus ; fourthly, closed bell-shaped mountains or cones of elevation, open at the summit, either inclosed by a circular wall, which is at least partially retained — as on the Pic of Teneriffe, in Fogo, 'and Eocca Monfina; or entirely without circumvallation or crater of elevation — as in Ice- land,* in the Cordilleras of Quito, and the central parts of Mexico. Tho open cones of elevation of this fourth class maintain a permanent connection between the fiery interior of the earth and the atmosphere, which is more or less effect- ive at undetermined intervals of time. Of the dome-shaped and bell-shaped trachytic and doleritic mountains which have remained closed at the summit, there appear, according to my observations, to be more than of the open cones, whether active or extinct, and far more than of the true volcanoes. Dome-shaped and bell-shaped mountains, such as Chimbora- zo, Puy de D6me, Sarcouy, Rocca Monfina, and Vultur, give the landscape a peculiar character, by which they contrast pleasingly with the schistose peaks, or the serrated forms of limestone. In the tradition preserved to us so picturesquely by Ovid regarding the great volcanic phenomenon of the peninsula of Methone, the production of such a bell-shaped and unopen- ed mountain is indicated with methodical clearness. " The force of the winds imprisoned in dark caves of the earth, and seeking in vain for an opening, drive up the heaving soil (extentam tumefecit humum), as when one fills a bladder or leather bag with air. By gradual hardening the high pro- * Sartorius von Waltershausen, Plnjsisch-geogmplnsche Sldzze von Island. 1847, s. 107. CRATERS OF ELEVATION. 219 jccting eminence has retained the form of a hill." I have already elsewhere adverted to the fact of how completely different this Roman representation is from Aristotle's nar- ration of the volcanic phenomenon upon Iliera, a newly- formed xEolic (Liparian) island, in which " the subterranean, mightily urging blast does indeed also raise a hill, but after- ward breaks it up to pour forth a fiery shower of ashes." The elevation is here clearly represented as preceding the eruption of flame {Cosmos, vol. i., p. 241), According to Strabo, the elevated dome-like hill of Methana had also opened in fiery eruptions, at the close of which an agreeable odor was diffused in the night-time. It is very remarkable that the latter was observed under exactly similar circum- stances during the volcanic eruption of Santorin, in the au- tumn of 1G50, and was denominated " a consoling sign, that God would not yet destroy his flock," in the penitential ser- mon delivered and written shortly afterward by a monk.* * It has been a much disputed point to what particular locality of the plain of Troezen, or the peninsula of Methana, the description of the Roman poet may refer. My friend, Ludwig Ross, the great Greek antiquarian and chorograph, who has had the advantage of many travels, thinks that the immediate vicinity of Troezen presents no locality which can be referred to as the bladder-like hills, and that, by a poetic license, Ovid has removed the phenomenon described with such truth to nature to the plain. " To the south of the peninsula of Methana, and east of the plain of Troezen," writes Ross, "lies the Island Calauria, well known as the place where Demosthenes, being pressed by the Macedonians, took poison in the temple of Neptune. A narrow arm of the sea separates the limestone rocks of Calauria from the coast; from this arm of the sea (passage, iropog) the town and island take their present name. In the middle of the strait, united with Calauria by a low causeway, probably of artificial origin, lies a small conical islet, comparable in form to an egg cut through the middle. It is volcanic throughout, consisting of grayish yellow and yellowish red trachyte, mixed with eruptions of lava and scoria?, and is almost entirely destitute of vegetation. Upon this islet stands the present town of Poros, on the place of the ancient Calauria. The formation of the islet is exactly similar to that of the more recent volcanic islands in the Bay of Thera (Santorin). In his animated description, Ovid has probably followed a Greek original or an old tradition" (Ludw. Ross, in a letter to me dated November, 1845). As a member of the French scientific expedition, Virlet has set up the opinion that the volcanic upheaval may have been only a subse- quent increase of the trachytic mass of the peninsula of Methana. This increase occurs in the northwest extremity of the peninsula, where the black burned rock, called Kammeni-petra, resembling the Kammeni, near Santorin, betrays a more recent origin. Pausanias communicates the tradition of the inhabitants of Methana, that, on the north coast, before the now-celebrated sulphurous springs burst 220 cosmos. Does not this pleasant odor afford indications of naphtha? The same thing is also referred to by Kotzebue, in his Rus- sian voyage of discovery, in connection with an igneous eruption (1804) of the volcanic island of Umnack, newly elevated from the sea in the Aleutian Archipelago. During the great eruption of Vesuvius, on the 12th August, 1805, which I observed in company with Gay-Lussac, the latter found a bituminous odor prevailing at times in the ignited crater. I bring together these little-noticed facts, because they contribute to confirm the close concatenation of all manifestations of volcanic activity, the intimate connection of the weak salses and naphtha springs with the true vol- canoes. Circumrallations, analogous to those of the craters of ele- vation, also present themselves in rocks which are very dif- ferent from trachyte, basalt, and porphyritic schists ; for ex- ample, according to Elie de Beaumont's acute observation, in the granite of the French Alps. The mountain mass of Oisans, to which the highest* summit of France, Mont Pel- voux, near Briancon (12,905 feet), belongs, forms an amphi- theatre of thirty-two geographical miles in circumference, in the centre of which is situated the small village of La Be- rarde. The steep walls of this circular space rise to a height of more than 9600 feet. The circumvallation itself is gneiss; all the interior is granite.f In the Swiss and Savoy Alps the same formation presents itself repeatedly in small dimen- sions. The Grand Plateau of Mont Blanc, in which Bravais forth, fire rose out of the earth (see Curtius, Peloponnesos, bd. i., s. 42 and 46). On the "indescribable pleasant odor" -which followed the stinking sulphurous odor, near Santorin (September, 1650), see Ross, Reisen aufden Griech. Inseln des dgdischen Meeres, bd. i., s. 196. Upon the odor of naphtha in the fumes of the lava of the Aleutian island Umnack, which appeared in 1796, see Kotzebue's Entdeckungs-Reise, bd. ii., s. 106, and Leopold de Buch, Description phys. des lies Cana- ries, p. 458. * The highest summit of the Pyrenees, that is, the Pic de Nethou (the eastern and highest peak of the Maladetta or Malahita group), has been twice measured trigonometrically ; its height, according to Re- boul, is 11,443 feet (3481 metres), and, according to Corabceuf, 11,167 feet (3404 metres). It is, therefore, 1705 feet lower than Mont Pel- voux, in the French Alps, near Briaiu^on. The next in height to the Pic de Nethou, in the Pyrenees, are the Pic Posets or Erist, and of the group of the Marbore, the Montperdu, and the Cylindre. f Memoir e pour servir a la Description Geologiquede la France, t. ii., p. 339. Upon " valleys of elevation" and " encircling ridges" in the Silurian formation, see the admirable description of Sir Roderick Mur- chison in "The Silurian System," pt. i., p. 427-442. MAARS. 221 and Martins encamped for several days, is a closed amphi- theatre with a nearly flat bottom, at an elevation of nearly 12,811 feet; from the midst of which the colossal pyramid of the summit rises.* The same upheaving forces produce similar forms, although modilied by the composition of the different rocks. The annular and caldron-like valleys (val- leys of elevation) described by Hoffman, Buckland, Murchi- son, and Thurmann, in the sedimentary rocks of the north of Germany, in Herefordshire, and the Jura mountains of Porrentruy, arc also connected with the phenomena here de- scribed, as well as, although with a less degree of analogy, some elevated plains of the Cordilleras inclosed on all sides by mountain masses, in which are situated the towns of Caxamarca (9362 feet), Bogota (8729 feet), and Mexico (7469 feet), and in the Himalayas the caldron-like valley of Caschmir (5819 feet). Less related to the craters of elevation than to the above described simplest form of volcanic activity (the action from mere fissures) are the numerous Maars among the extinct volcanoes of the Eifel — caldron-like depressions in non-vol- canic rock (Devonian slate), and surrounded by slightly ele- vated margins, formed by themselves. "These are, as it were, the funnels of mines, indications of mine-like erup- tions," resembling the remarkable phenomenon described by me of the human bones scattered upon the hill of La Culcaf during the earthquake of Riobamba (4th February, 1797). When single Maars, not situated at any great height, in the Eifel, in Auvergne, or in Java, are filled with water, such former craters of explosion may in this state be denominated crateres-lacs ; but it seems to me that this term should not * Bravais and Martins, Observ. /kites au Sommet et au Grand Pla- teau du Mont Blanc, in the Annuaire Meteorol. de la France pour 1850, p. 131. t Cosmos, vol. v., p. 173. I have twice visited the volcanoes of the Eifel, when geognosy was in very different states of development, in the autumn of 1794, and in August, 1845 ; the first time in the vicin- ity of the Lake of Laach and the monastery there, which was then still inhabited by monks ; the second time in the neighborhood of Bertrich, the Mosenberg, and the adjacent Maars, but never for more than a few days. As in the latter excursion I had the good fortune to be able to accompany my intimate friend, the mining surveyor, Von Dechen, I have been enabled by many years' correspondence, and the communication of important manuscript memoirs, to make free use of the observations of this acute geognosist. I have often in- dicated by quotation marks, as is my wont, what I have borrowed, word for word, from his communications. 222 cosmos. be taken as a synonymous name for Maar, as small lakes have been found by Abich and myself on the summits of the highest volcanoes, on true cones of elevation in extinguished craters ; for example, on the Mexican volcano of Toluca at an elevation of 12,246 feet, and on the Caucasian Elburuz at 19,717 feet. In the volcanoes of the Eifel we must care- fully distinguish from each other two kinds of volcanic ac- tivity of very unequal age — the true volcanoes emitting streams of lava, and the weaker eruptive phenomena of the Maars. To the former belong the basaltic stream of lava, rich in olivin, and cleft into upright columns, in the valley of Uesbach, near Bertrich ;* the volcano of Gerolstein, which is seated in a limestone containing dolomite, deposited in the form of a basin in the Devonian graywacke schists ; and the long ridge of the Mosenberg (1753 feet above the sea), not far from Bettenfeld, to the west of Manderscheid. The last- named volcano has three craters, of which the first and sec- ond, those furthest to the north, are perfectly round, and covered with peat mosses ; while from the third and most southern! crater there flows down a vast, reddish brown, deep stream of lava, separated into a columnar form, toward the valley of the little Kyll. It is a remarkable phenome- non, foreign to lava-producing volcanoes in general, that nei- ther on the Mosenberg nor on the Gerolstein, nor in other true volcanoes of the Eifel, are the lava eruptions visibly sur- rounded at their origin by a trachytic rock, but, as far as they are accessible to observation, proceed directly from the Devonian strata. The surface of the Mosenberg does not at all prove what is hidden in its depths. The scorise contain- ing augite, which by cohesion pass into basaltic streams, contain small, calcined fragments of slate, but no trace of inclosed trachyte. Nor is the latter to be found inclosed in the crater of the Rodderberg, notwithstanding that it lies in the immediate vicinity of the Siebengebirge, the greatest trachytic mass of the Rhine district. "The Maars appear," as the mining surveyor Von De- * H. von Dechen, Geognost. Uebersicht der Umgegend von Bad Ber- trich, 1847, s. 11-51. t Stengel, in Noggerath, das Gehirge von Rheinland und Westphalen, bd. i., s. 79, taf. iii. See also C. von Oeynhausen's admirable expla- nations of his geognostic Map of the Lake of Laach, 1847, p. 34, 39, and 42, including the Eifel and the basin of Neuwied. Upon th© Maars, see Steininger, Geognostische Beschreibung der Eifel, 1853, s. 113. His earliest meritorious work, liZ>ie erlosc/ienen Vulkane in der Eifel und am Nieder-Rhein," belongs to the year 1820. MAARS. 223 chon has ingeniously observed, " to belong in their formation to about the same epoch as the eruption of the lava streams of the true volcanoes. Both are situated in the vicinity of deeply-cut valleys. The lava-producing volcanoes were de- cidedly active at a time when the valleys had already at- tained very nearly their present form ; and we also see the most ancient lava streams of this district pouring down into the valleys." The Maars are surrounded by fragments of Devonian slates, and by heaps of gray sand and tufa mar- gins. The Laacher lake, whether it be regarded as a largo Maar, or, with my old friend C. von Oeynhausen, as part of a large caldron-like valley in the clay-slate (like the basin of Wehr), exhibits some volcanic eruptions of scoria? upon the ridge surrounding it, as is the case on the Krufter Ofen, the Veitskopf, and Laacher Kopf. It is not, however, mere- ly the entire want of lava streams, such as are to be ob- served on the Canary Islands upon the outer margin of true craters of elevation and in their immediate vicinity — it is not the inconsiderable elevation of the ridge surrounding the Maar, that distinguishes this from craters of elevation ; the margins of the Maars are destitute of a regular stratifica- tion of the rock, falling, in consequence of the upheaval, con- stantly outward. The Maars sunk in the Devonian slate appear, as has already been observed, like the craters of mines, into which, after the violent explosion of hot gases and vapors, the looser ejected masses (Rapilli) have for the most part fallen back. As examples I shall only mention here the Immerather, the Pnlvermaar, and the Meerfelder Maar. In the centre of the first mentioned, the dry bottom of which, at a depth of two hundred feet, is cultivated, are situated the two villages of Ober- and Unter-Immerath. Here, in the volcanic tufa of the vicinity, exactly as on the Laacher lake, mixtures of feldspar and augite occur in sphe- roids, in which particles of black and green glass arc scat- tered. Similar spheroids of mica, hornblende, and augite, full of vitrified portions, are also contained in the tufa veins of the Pulvermaar near Gillenfeld, which, however, is en- tirely converted into a deep lake. The regularly circular Meerfelder Maar, covered partly with water and partly with peat, is characterized geognostically by the proximity of the three craters of the great Mosenberg, the most southern of which has furnished a stream of lava. The Maar, however, is situated 639 feet below the long ridge of the volcano, and at its northern extremity, not in the axis of the series of 224 cosmos. craters, but more to the northwest. The average elevation of the Maars of the Eifel above the surface of the sea falls between 922 feet (Laacher lake?) and 1588 feet (Mosbrucher As this is peculiarly the place in which to call attention to the uniformity and agreement exhibited by volcanic ac- tivity in its production of material results, in the most dif- ferent forms of the outer frame-work (as Maars, as circum- vallated craters of elevation, or cones opened at the sum- mit), I may mention the remarkable abundance of crystal- lized minerals which have been thrown out by the Maars in their first explosion, and which still in part lie buried in the tufas. In the environs of the Laacher lake this abundance is certainly greatest ; but other Maars also, for example the Immerather, and the Meerfelder Maar, so rich in bombs of olivin, contain fine crystallized masses. We may here men- tion zircon, hauyne, leucite,* apatite, nosean, olivin, augite, ryacolite, common feldspar (orthoclase), glassy feldspar (san- idine), mica, sodalite, garnet, and titanic iron. If the num- ber of beautifully crystallized minerals on Vesuvius be so much greater (Scacchi counts 43 species), we must not for- get that very few of them are ejected from the volcano, and that the greater number belongs to the portion of the so- called eruptive matters of Vesuvius, which, according to the * Leucite (of the same kind from Vesuvius, from Rocca di Papa in the Albanian mountains, from Viterbo, from the Rocca Monfina, ac- cording to Pilla, sometimes of more than three inches in diameter, and from the dolerite of the Kaiserstuhl, in the Breisgau) occurs also "in position as leucite-rock in the Eifel, on the Burgberg, near Rie- den. The tufa in the Eifel incloses large blocks of leucitophyre near Boll and Weibern." I can not resist the temptation to borrow the following important observation from a chemico-geognostic memoir read by Mitscherlich a few weeks since before the Academy of Ber- lin: "Aqueous vapors alone may have effected the eruptions of the Eifel, but they would have divided olivin and augite into the finest drops and powder if they had met with them in a fluid state. With the fundamental mass of the erupted matters fragments of the old, broken-up rock are most intimately mixed, for example, on the Drei- ser Weiher, and these are frequently caked together. The larger ol- ivin masses and the masses of augite even usually occur surrounded by a thick crust of this mixture ; a fragment of the old rock never oc- curs in the olivin or augite ; both were consequently formed before they reached the spot where the breaking up took place. Olivin and augite had, therefore, separated from the fluid basaltic mass before this met with an accumulation of water or a spring which caused its expulsion." See also upon the bombs an older memoir by Leonard Horner, in the Transactions of the Geological Society, 2d series, vol. iv., pt. 2, 1836, p. 467. MAARS. 225 opinion of Leopold von BuCh,* "arc quite foreign to Vesu- vius, and to be referred to a tufaceous covering diffused far beyond Capua, which was upheaved by the rising cone of Vesuvius, and has probably been produced by a deeply-seat- ed submarine volcanic action." Certain definite directions of the various phenomena of volcanic activity are unmistakable even in the Eifel. " The eruptions producing lava streams of the Upper Eifel lie in one fissure, nearly 32 English miles in length, from Bert- rich to the Goldberg, near Ormond, directed from southeast to northwest; on the other hand, the Maars, from the Meer- felder Maar to Mosbruch and the Laacher lake, follow a line of direction from southwest to northeast. These two pri- mary directions intersect each, other in the three Maars of Daun. In the neighborhood of the Laacher lake trachyte is nowhere visible on the surface. The occurrence of this rock below the surface is only indicated by the peculiar na- ture of the perfectly feldspar-like pumice-stone of Laach, and by the bombs of augite and feldspar thrown out. But the trachytes of the Eifel, composed of feldspar and large crystals of hornblende, are only visibly distributed among basaltic mountains: as in the Sellberg (1893 feet), near Quiddelbach ; in the rising ground of Struth, near Kelberg ; and in the wall-like mountain chain of Reimerath, near Boos." Next to the Lipari and Ponza islands few parts of Europe have probably produced a greater mass of pumice-stone than this region of Germany, which, with a comparatively small el- evation, presents such various forms of volcanic activity in its Maars (crateres cT explosion), basaltic rocks, and lava-emitting volcanoes. The principal mass of the pumice-stone is situ- ated between Nieder Mendig and Sorge, Andernach and Rii- benach ; the principal mass of the duckstein, or Tinss (a very recent conglomerate, deposited by water), lies in the valley of Brohl, from its opening into the Rhine upward to Burg- brohl, near Plaidt and Kruft. The Trass formation of the Brohl valley contains, together with fragments of graywacke- slate and pieces of wood, small fragments of pumice-stone, differing in notching from the pumice-stone which constitutes the superficial covering of the region, and even that of the * Leopold von Buch, in Poggend., Annalen, ltd. xxxvii., s. 170. Ac- cording to Scacchi, the eruptive matters belong to the first outbreak of Vesuvius in the year 79. Leonhard's Nmes Julcrbuch fur Mineral., 1853, s. 259. K2 226 cosmos. duckstein itself. Notwithstanding some analogies which the Cordilleras appear to present, I have always doubted whether the Trass can be ascribed to eruptions of mud from the lava-producing volcanoes of the Eifel. I rather suppose, with H. von Dechen, that the pumice-stone was thrown out dry, and that the Trass was formed in the same way as oth- er conglomerates. " Pumice-stone is foreign to the Sieben- gebirge ; and the great pumice eruption of the Eifel, the principal mass of which still lies above the loess (Trass) and alternates therewith in particular parts, may, in accordance with the presumption to which the local conditions lead, have taken place in the valley of the Rhine, above Neuwied, in the great Neuwied basin, perhaps near Urmits, on the left bank of the Rhine. From the friability of the material, the place of eruption may have disappeared without leaving any traces by the subsequent action of the current of the Rhine. In the entire tract of the Maars of the Eifel, as in that of its volcanoes from Bertrich to Ormond, no pumice-stone is found. That of the Laacher lake is limited to the rocks upon its margin ; and on the other Maars the small frag- ments of feldspathic rock, which lie in the volcanic sand and tuff, do not pass into pumice." We have already touched upon the relative antiquity of the Maars and of the eruptions of the lava streams, which differ so much from them, compared with that of the formation of the valleys. " The trachyte of the Siebengebirge appears to be much older than the valley formation, and even older than the Rhenish brown coal. Its appearance has been independent of the cutting of the valley of the Rhine, even if we should ascribe this valley to the formation of a fissure. The forma- tion of the valleys is more recent than the Rhenish brown coal, and more recent than the Rhenish basalt ; but older than the volcanic eruptions with lava streams, and older than the great pumice eruption and the Trass. Basalt formations decidedly extend to a more recent period than the formation of trachyte, and the principal mass of the basalt is, therefore, to be regarded as younger than the trachyte. In the pres- ent declivities of the valley of the Rhine many basaltic groups (the quarry of Unkel, Rolandseck, Godesberg) were only laid bare by the opening of the valley, as up to that time they were probably inclosed in the Devonian graywacke rocks." The infusoria, whose universal diffusion, demonstrated by Ehrenberg, upon the continents, in the greatest depths of the sea, and in the upper strata of the atmosphere, is one of the MAARS. 227 most brilliant discoveries of our time, have their principal seat in the volcanic Eifel, in the Rapilli, Trass strata, and pumice conglomerates. Organisms with silicious shields fill the valley of Brohl and the eruptive matters of Ilochsim- mer; sometimes, in the Trass, thoy arc mixed with uncar- bonized twigs of conifers. According to Ehrenbcrg, the whole of this microcosm is of fresh-water formation, and marine Polythalamia* only show themselves exceptionally in the uppermost deposit of the friable, yellowish loess at the foot and on the declivities of the Siebengebirge (indicating its former brackish coast nature). Is the phenomenon of Maars limited to Western Germa- ny ? Count Montlosier, who was acquainted with the Eifel by personal observations in 1819, and who pronounces the Mosenberg to be one of the finest volcanoes that he ever saw (like. Rozet), regards the Gouffre de Tazenat, the Lac Pavin and Lac de la Godivel, in Auvergne, as Maars or craters of explosion. They are cut into very different kinds of rock — in granite, basalt, and domite (trachytic rock), and surround- ed at the margins with scoriae and rapilli.f The frame-works, which are built up by a more powerful eruptive activity of volcanoes, by upheaval of the soil and emission of lava, appear in at least six different forms, and reappear with this variety in their forms in the most distant zones of the earth. Those who are born in volcanic districts, among basaltic and trachytic mountains, are often genially impressed in spots where the same forms greet them. Mount- ain forms are among the most important determining elements of the physiognomy of nature — they give the district either a * Upon the antiquity of formation of the valley of the Rhine, see H. von Dechen, Geognost. Beschreibung des Siebengebirges, in the Ver- handl. des Naturhist. Vereins dcr JPreuss. liheinlande und }Vestphale?is, 1852, s. 556-559. The infusoria of the Eifel are treated of by Ehren- bcrg in the Monatsber. der Akad. der Wiss. zu Berlin, 1811, s. 337 ; 1845, s. 133 and 118 ; and 1846, s. 161-171. The Trass of Brohl, which is filled with crumbs of pumice-stone containing infusoria, forms hills of as much as 850 feet in height. t See Rozet, in the Memoires de la Socictc Gcologiquc, 2me serie, t. i., p. 119. On the island of Java also, that wonderful seat of multi- farious volcanic activity, there occur "craters without cones, as it were flat volcanoes" (Junghuhn, Java, seine Gestalt und Pflanzendecke, Lief, vii., p. 610), between Gunung Salak and Perwakti, analogous to the Maars as " craters of explosion." Destitute of any elevated margins, they are situated partly in perfectly flat districts of the mountains, have angular fragments of the burst rocky strata scattered around them, and now only emit vapors and gases. 228 cosmos. cheerful, or a stern and magnificent character, according as they are adorned with vegetation or surrounded by a dreary barrenness. I have quite recently endeavored to bring to- gether in a separate atlas a number of outlines of the Cordil- leras of Quito and Mexico, sketched from my own drawings. As basalt occurs sometimes in conical domes somewhat rounded at the summit, sometimes in the form of closely- arranged twin-mountains of unequal elevation, and some- times in that of a long horizontal ridge bounded at each ex- tremity by a more elevated dome, so we principally distin- guish in trachyte the majestic dome form* (Chimborazo, 21,422 feet), not to be confounded with the form of the un- opened but less massive bell-shaped mountains. The con- ical form is most perfectly! exhibited in Cotopaxi (18,877 feet), and next to this in Popocatepetl^ (1-7,727 feet), as seen on the beautiful shores of the lake of Tezcuco, or from the summit of the ancient Mexican step-pyramid of Cholula ; and in the volcano of Orizaba§ (17,374 feet; according to Ferrer, 17,879 feet). -A strongly truncated conical form[| is exhibited by the JSTevado de Cayambe-Urcu (19,365 feet), which is intersected by the equator, and by the volcano of Tolima (18,129 feet), visible above the primeval forest at the foot of the Paramo de Quindiu, near the little town of Ibague.^[ To the astonishment of geognosists an elongated ridge is formed by the volcano of Pichincha (15,891 feet), at the less elevated extremity of which the broad, still ignited crater** is situated. Fallings of the wralls of craters, induced by great natural phenomena, or their rupture by mine-like explosion from the * Humboldt, Umrisse von Vulkanen der Cordilleren von Quito und Mexico, ein Beitrag zur Physiognomik de?' Natur, Tafel iv. {Kleinere Schriften, bd. i., s. 133-205). f Umrisse von Vulkanen, Tafel vi. % Op. cit. sup., Tafel viii. {Kleiner e Schr if ten, bd. i., 8. 463-467). On the topographical position of Popocatepetl {smoking mountain in the Aztec language), near the (recumbent) White woman, Iztaccihuatl, and its geographical relation to the western lake of Tezcuco and the pyramid of Cholula situated to the eastward, see my Atlas G'cogra- j>hique et Physique de la Nouvelle Espagne, pi. 3. § Umrisse von Vulkanen, Tafel ix. ; the Star-mountain, in the Aztec language Citlaltepetl; Kleinere Schriften, bd. i., s. 467-470, and my Atlas Gcogr. et Phys. de la Nouvelle Espagne, pi. 17. | Umrisse von Vulkanen, Tafel ii. % Humboldt, Vues des Cordilleres et Monumens des jieuples indigenes de VAmerique (fol.), pi. lxii. ** Umrisse von Vulkanen, Tafel i. and x. {Kleinere Schriften, bd. i., s. 1-99). TRUE VOLCANOES. 229 depths of the interior, produce remarkable and contrasting forms in conical mountains: such as the cleavage into dou- ble pyramids oi' a more or less regular kind in the Carguai- razo (15,007 feet), which suddenly fell in* on the night of the 19th July, 101)8, and in the still more beautiful pyra- mids! of Ilinissa (17,4o8 feet); and a crenulation of the up- per Avails of the crater, in which two very similar peaks, op- posite to each other, betray the previous primitive form (Ca- pae-Urcu, Cerro del Altar, now only 17,450 feet in height). Among the aborigines of the highlands of Quito, between Chambo and Lican, between the mountains of Condorasto and Cuvillan, the tradition has been universally preserved that fourteen years before the invasion of Huayna Capac the son of the Inca Tupac Yupanqui, and after eruptions which lasted uninterruptedly for seven or eight years, the summit of the last-mentioned volcano fell in, and covered the entire plateau, in which New Eiobamba is situated, with pumice- stone and volcanic ashes. The volcano, originally higher than Chimborazo, was called, in the Inca or Quichua lan- guage, capac, the king or prince of mountains (urcu), because the natives saw its summit rise to a greater height above the lower snow-line than that of any other mountain of the neighborhood.:): The great Ararat, the summit of which * Umrisse von Vulkanen, Tafel iv. t Ibid., Tafel iii. and vii. % Long before the visit of Bouguer and La Condamine (1736) to the plateau of Quito, long before any measurements of the mountains by astronomers, the natives knew that Chimborazo was higher than any other Nevado in that region. They had detected two lines of level which remained almost exactly the same all the year round — that of the lower limit of perpetual snow, and that of the elevation to which a single, occasional snow-fall reached down. As in the equatorial re- gion of Quito, the snow-line, as I have proved by measurements else- where (Asie Centrak, t. hi., p. 255), only varies about 190 feet in eleva- tion on six of the most colossal peaks ; and as this variation, as well as smaller ones caused by local conditions, is imperceptible to the naked eye when seen from a great distance (the height of the summit of Mont Blanc is the same as that of the lower equatorial snow-limit), this circumstance gives rise within the tropics to an apparently unin- terrupted regularity of the snowy covering, that is to say, the form of the snow-line. The pictorial representation of this horizontality is as- tounding to the physicists who are only accustomed to the irregularity of the snowy covering in the variable, so-called temperate zones. The uniformity of elevation of the snow about Quito, and the knowledge of the maximum of its oscillation, presents perpendicular bases of 15,777 feet above the surface of the sea, and of 639G feet above the plateau in which the cities of Quito, Hambato, and Nuevo Riobamba are situ- ated; bases which, combined with very accurate measurements of 230 cosmos. (17,084 feet) was reached by Friedrich Parrot in the year 1829, and by Abich and Chodzko in 1845 and 1850, forms, like Chimborazo, an unopened dome. Its vast lava streams have burst forth far below the snow-line. A more import- ant character in the formation of Ararat is a lateral chasm, the deeply-cut valley of Jacob, which may be compared with the Vol delBove of iEtna. In this, according to Abich's ob- servation, the inner structure of the nucleus of the trachytic dome-shaped mountain first becomes really visible, as this nu- cleus and the upheaval of the whole of Ararat are much more ancient than the lava streams.* The Kasbegk and Tschegem, which have broken out upon the same principal Caucasian mountain ridge (E.S.E.— W.N.W.) as the Elburuz (19,716 feet), are also cones without craters at their summits, while the colossal Elburuz bears a crater-lake upon its summit. As conical and dome-like forms are by far the most fre- quent in all regions of the earth, the isolated occurrence of the long ridge of the volcano of Pichincha, in the group of volcanoes of Quito, becomes all the more remarkable. I have occupied myself long and carefully with the study of its structure, and, besides its profile view, founded upon nu- merous angular measurements, have also published a topo- graphical sketch of its transverse valleys. | Pichincha forms a wall of black trachytic rock (composed of augite and oli- goclase) more than nine miles in length, elevated upon a fis- sure in the most western Cordilleras, near the South Sea, but without the axis of the high mountain ridge coinciding angles of elevation, may be employed for determining distance in many topographical labors which are to be rapidly executed. The second of the level lines here indicated, the horizontal, which bounds the lower portion of a single occasional snow-fall, is decisive as to the relative height of the mountain domes, which do not reach into the region of perpetual snow. Of a long chain of such mountains, which have been erroneously supposed to be of equal height, many are be- low the temporary snow-line, and thus the snow-fall decides as to the relative height. I have heard such considerations as these upon per- petual and accidental snow limits from the mouths of rough country people and herdsmen in the mountains of Quito, where the Sierras Nevadas are often close together, although they are not connected by the same line of pei'petual snow. Grandeur of nature sharpens the perceptive faculties in particular individuals among the colored abo- rigines, even when they are on the lowest steps of civilization. * Abich, Bulletin de la Socie'te de Geographic, 4me serie, t. i. (1851), p. 517, with a very beautiful representation of the form of the old vol- cano. t Humboldt, Vues de Cordillcres, p. 295, pi. lxi., and Atlas de la Relat. Hist, dn Voyage, pi. 27. TRUE VOLCANOES. 231 in direction with that of the Cordillera. Upon the ridge of the Avail, the three domes, set up like castles, follow from S.W. to N.E. : Cuntur-gnachana, Guagua-Pichincha (the child of the old volcano), and el Picacho do los Ladrillos. The true volcano is called the Father, or the Old Man, Kucu- Pichincha. It is the only part of the long mountain ridge that reaches into the region of perpetual snow, and therefore rises to an elevation which exceeds the dome of Guagua- Pichincha, the child, by about 190 feet. Three tower-like rocks surround the oval crater, which lie somewhat to the southwest, and therefore beyond the axial direction of a wall which is on the average 15,406 feet in height. In the spring of 1802 I reached the eastern rocky tower accompanied only by the Indian, Felipe Aldas. We stood there upon the ex- treme margin of the crater, about 2451 feet above the bot- tom of the ignited chasm. Sebastian Wisse, to whom the physical sciences are indebted for so many interesting observ- ations during his long residence in Quito, had the courage to pass several nights in the year 1845 in a part of the cra- ter where the thermometer fell toward sunrise to 28°. The crater is divided into two portions by a rocky ridge, covered with vitrified scoriae. The eastern portion lies more than a thousand feet deeper than the western, and is now the real seat of volcanic activity. Here a cone of eruption rises to a height of 266 feet. It is surrounded by more than seventy ignited fumaroles, emitting sulphurous vapors.* From this circular eastern crater, the cooler parts of which are now covered with tufts of rushy grasses, and a Pourretia with Bromelia-like leaves, it is probable that the eruptions of fiery scoria?, pumice, and ashes of Rucu-Pichincha took place in 1539, 1560, 1566, 1577, 1580, and 1660. The city of Quito was then frequently enveloped in darkness for days to- gether by the falling, dust-like rapilli. To the rarer class of volcanic forms which constitute elon- gated ridges belong, in the Old World, the Galungung, with a large crater, in the western part of Java ;f the doleritic mass of the Schiwelutsch, in Kamtschatka, a mountain chain upon the ridge of which single domes rise to a height of 10,-170 feet; % Hecla, seen from the northwest side, in the normal direction upon the principal and longitudinal fissure * Kleinere Schriften, bd\ i., s. 61, 81, 83, and 88. f Junghuhn, Reise durch Java, 1845, s. 215, Tafcl xx. X See Adolf Erman's Reise nm die A'rde, which is also very import- ant in a geognostic poiut of view, bd. iii., s. 271 and 207. 232 cosmos. over which it has burst forth, as a broad mountain chain, furnished with various small peaks. Since the last erup- tions of 1845 and 1846, which yielded a lava stream of eight geographical miles in length, and in some places more than two miles in breadth, similar to the stream from .ZEtna in 1669, five caldron-like craters lie in a row upon the ridge of Hecla. As the principal fissure is directed N. 65° E., the volcano, when seen from Selsundsfjall, that is from the south- west side, and therefore in transverse section, appears as a pointed conical mountain.* If the forms of volcanoes are so remarkably different (Cotopaxi and Pichincha) without any variation in the matters thrown out, and in the chemical processes taking place in the depths of their interior, the relative position of the cones of elevation is sometimes still more singular. Upon the island of Luzon, in the group of the Philippines, the still active volcano of Taal, the most destructive erup- tion of which was that of the year 1754, rises in the midst of a large lake inhabited by crocodiles (called the Laguna de Bombon). The cone, which was ascended in Kotzebue's voyage of discovery, has a crater-lake, from which again a cone of eruption, with a second crater, rises, f This descrip- tion reminds one involuntarily of Hanno's journal of his voyage, in which an island is referred to, inclosing a small lake, from the centre of which a second island rises. The phenomenon is said to occur twice, once in the Gulf of the * Sartorius von "Waltershausen, Physiscli-geographische Skizze von Island, 1847, s. 107; and his Geognostischer Atlas von Island, 1853, Tafel xv. and xvi. f Otto von Kotzebue, Entdeckungs-Reise in die Sildsee und in die Berings-Strasse, 1815-1818, bd. iii., s. 68 ; Reise-Atlas von Choris, 1820, Tafel 5 ; Vicomte d'Archiac, Histoire des Progres de la Geologie, 1847, t. i., p. 544 ; and Buzeta, Diccionario Geogr. estad. Historico de las islas Filipinas, t. ii. (Madrid, 1851), p. 436 and 470, 471, in which, however, the double encircling of a crater in the crater-lake, mentioned alike accurately and circumstantially by Delamare, in his letter to Arago (November, 1842, Comptes rendus de V Acad, des Sciences, t. xvi., p. 756), is not referred to. The great eruption in December, 1754 (a previous and more violent one took place on the 24th September, 1716), de- stroyed the old village of Taal, situated on the southwestern bank of the lake, which was subsequently rebuilt at a greater distance from the volcano. The small island of the lake upon which the volcano rises is called Isla del Volcan. (Buzeta, loc. cit.) The absolute elevation of the volcano of Taal is scarcely 895 feet. It is, therefore, like Cosi- ma, one of the lowest. At the time of the American expedition of Captain Wilkes (1842) it was in full activity. See United States Ex- ploring Expedition, vol. v., p. 317. TRUE VOLCANOES. 233 Western Horn, and again in the Hay of the Gorilla Apes, on the West African coast.* Such particular descriptions may be believed to rest upon actual observation of nature! The smallest and greatest elevation of the points at which the volcanic energy of the interior of the earth shows itself permanently active at the surface is a hypsometric consider- ation possessing that interest for the physical description of the earth which belongs to all facts relating to the reaction of the fluid interior of the planet upon its surface. The de- gree of the upheaving force! is certainly evidenced in the height of volcanic conical mountains, but an opinion as to the influence of comparative elevation upon the frequency and violence of eruptions must be given with great caution. Individual contrasts of the frequency and strength of simi- lar actions in veiy high or very low volcanoes can not be decisive in this case, and our knowledge of the many hun- dred active volcanoes supposed to exist upon continents and islands is still so exceedingly imperfect, that the only deci- sive method, that of average numbers, is as yet misapplied. But such average numbers, even if they should furnish the definite result at what elevation of the cones a quicker re- turn of the eruptions is manifested, would still leave room for the doubt that the incalculable contingencies occurring in the net-work of fissures, which may be stopped up with more or less ease, may act together with the elevation ; that is to say, the distance from the volcanic focus. The phenomenon is consequently an uncertain one as regards its causal con- nection. Adhering cautiously to matters of fact, where the compli- cation of the natural phenomena and the deficiency of his- torical records as to the number of eruptions in the lapse of ages have not yet allowed us to discover laws, I am content- ed with establishing five groups for the comparative hypso- metiy of volcanoes, in which the classes of elevation are characterized by a small but certain number of examples. In these five groups I have only referred to conical mount- ains rising isolated and furnished with still ignited craters, and consequently to true and still active volcanoes, not to unopened dome-shaped mountains, such as Chimborazo. All cones of eruption which are dependent upon a neighboring volcauo, or which, when at a distance from the latter, as * Humboldt, Examen Critique de tffist. de la Geogi:, t. hi., p. 135; Jlannonis Periplus, in Hudson's Geogr. Greed min., t. i., p. 45. t Cosmos, vol. i. p. 229. 234 cosmos. upon the island of Lancerote, and in the Arso, on the Epo- meus of Ischia, have preserved no permanent connection be- tween the interior of the earth and the atmosphere, are here excluded. According to the testimony of the most zealous observer of the vulcanicity of -ZEtna, Sartorius von Walters- hausen, this volcano is surrounded by nearly 700 larger and smaller cones of eruption. As the measured elevations of the summits relate to the level of the sea, the present fluid surface of the planet, it is of importance here to advert to the fact that insular volcanoes — of which some (such as the Javanese volcano Cosima,* at the entrance of the Straits of Tsugar, described by Horner and Tilesius) do not project a thousand feet, and others, such as the Peak of TenerifFe,t are more than 12,250 feet above the surface of the sea — have raised themselves by volcanic forces above a sea-bottom, which has often been found 20,000 feet, nay in one case more than 45,838 feet, below the present surface of the ocean. To avoid an error in the numerical proportions it must also be mentioned that, although distinctions of the first and fourth classes— volcanoes of 1000 and 18,000 feet (1066 and 19,188 English feet) — appear very considerable for volcanoes on con- tinents, the ratios of these numbers are quite changed if (from Mitscherlich's experiments upon the melting point of granite, and the not very probable hypothesis of the uniform increase of heat in proportion to the depth in arithmetical progression) we infer the upper limit of the fused interior of the earth to be about 121,500 feet below the present sea- level. Considering the tension of elastic vapors, which is vastly increased by the stopping of volcanic fissures, the dif- ferences of elevation of the volcanoes hitherto measured are certainly not considerable enough to be regarded as a hinder- ance to the elevation of the lava and other dense masses to the height of the crater. * For the position of this volcano, which is only exceeded in small- ness by the volcano of Tanna, and that of the Mendaiia, see the fine map of Japan by F. von Siebold, 1810. f I do not mention here, with the Peak of Teneriffe, among the in- sular volcanoes, that of Mauna-Roa, the conical form of which does not agree with its name. In the language of the Sandwich Islanders, mauna signifies mountain, and roa both long and much. Nor do I men- tion Hawaii, upon the height of which there has so long been a dis- pute, and which has been described as a trachytic dome not opened at the summit. The celebrated crater Kiraueah (a lake of molten, boil- ing lava) lies to the eastward, near the foot of the Mauna-Roa, accord- ing to Wilkes, at an elevation of 3970 feet. See the excellent de- scription in Charles Wilkes's Exploring Expedition, vol. iv., p. 165-196. TRUE VOLCANOES. 235 If)jpsomctnj of Volcanoes. First group, from 700 to -4000 Paris or 710 to 42G4 English feet ill height. The volcano of the Japanese island Cosima, to the south of Jczo : 746 feet, according to Horner. The volcano of the Liparian island Volcano: 1305 English feet, ac- cording to F. Hoffmann.* Ghmung Apt (signifying Fieri/ Mountain in the Malay language), the volcano of the island of Banda: 1949 feet. The volcano of Izalco,f in 'the state of San Salvador (in Central America), which -was first ascended in the year 1770, and which is in a state of almost constant eruption: 2132 feet, according to Squier. Guming Ringgit, the lowest volcano of Java : 2315 feet, according to Junghuhn.J Stromboli: 2958 feet, according to F. Hoffmann. Vesuvius, the Rocca del Palo, on the highest northern margin of the crater: the average of my two barometrical measurements§ of 1805 and 1822 gives 3997 feet. The volcano of Jorullo, which broke out in the elevated plateau of Mexico)! on the 29th September, 1759 : 4266 feet. Second group, from 4000 to 8000 Paris or 4264 to 8528 En- glish feet in height. Mont Pele, of Martinique : 4707 feet, according to Dupuget. The Sovfriere, of Guadaloupe : 4867 feet, according to C. Deville. Gunung Lamongan, in the most eastern part of Java : 5341 feet, ac- cording to Junghuhn. * Letter from F. Hoffmann to Leopold von Buch, upon the Geog- nostic Constitution of the Lipari Islands, in Poggend., Annalen, bd. xxvi., 1832, s. 59. Volcano, 1268 feet, according to the recent meas- urement of C. Sainte-Claire Deville, had violent eruptions of scoria? and ashes in the year 1444, at the end of the 16th century, in 1731, 1739, and 1771. Its fumaroles contain ammonia, borate of selenium, sul- phuret of arsenic, phosphorus, and, according to Bornemann, traces of iodine. The last three substances occur here for the first time among volcanic products- (Conqites renclus de VAcad. des Sciences, t. xliii., 1856, p. 683). t Squier, in the tenth annual meeting of the American Association, New Haven, 1850. % See Franz Junghuhn's exceedingly instructive work, Java, seine Gestalt unci Pflanzendecke, 1852, bd. i., s. 99. Kinggit has been near- ly extinct since its fearful eruption in the year 1586, which cost the lives of many thousand people. § The summit of Vesuvius is, therefore, only 260 feet higher than the Brocken. || Humboldt, Vues des Cordilleres, pi. xliii., and Atlas Geogr. et Physique, pi. 29. 236 cosmos. Gunung Tengger, which has the largest crater* of all the volcanoes of Java : height at the cone of eruption of Bromo, 7547 feet, ac- cording to Junghuhn. The volcano of Osorno (Chili) : 7550 feet, according to Fitzroy. The volcano of Picof (Azores) : 7614 feet, according to Captain Vidal. The volcano of the island of Bourbon: 8002 feet, according to Berth. Third group, from 8000 to 12,000 Paris or 8528 to 12,792 English feet in height. The volcano of Aicatscha (peninsula of Kamtschatka), not to be confounded^ with the rather more northern Strjeloschnaja Sopka, which is usually called the volcano of Awatscha by the English navigators : 8912 feet, according to Erman. The volcano of Antuco% or Anto'io (Chili) : 8920 feet, according to Domeyko. The volcano of the island of Fogo\\ (Cape Verd Islands): 9154 feet, according to Charles Deville. * Junghuhn, Op. cit. sup., bd. i., s. 68 and 98. t See my Relation Historique, t. i., p. 93, especially with regard to the distance at which the summit of the volcano of the island of Pico has sometimes been seen. Ferrer's old measurement gave 7918 feet, and therefore 304 feet more than the certainly more careful survey of Captain Vidal in 1843. X Erman, in his interesting geognostic description of the volcanoes of the peninsula of Kamtschatka, gives the Awatschinskaja or Gore- laja Sopka as 8912 feet, and the Strjeloschnaja Sopka, which is also called Korjaskaja Sopka, as 11,822 feet (Reise, bd. iii., s. 494 and 540). See with regard to these two volcanoes, of which the former is the most active, Leopold de Buch, Descr. Physique des lies Canaries, p. 447-450. Erman's measurement of the volcano of Awatscha agrees best with the earliest measurements of Mongez (8739) during the ex- pedition of La Perouse (1787), and with the'more recent one of Cap- tain Beechy (9057 feet). Hofmann in Kotzebue's voyage, and Lenz in Lutke's voyage, found only 8170 and 8214 feet; see Lutke, Voyage autour du Monde, t. iii., p. 67-84. The admiral's measurement of the Strjeloschnaja Sopka gave 11,222 feet. § See Pentland s table of elevations in Mrs. Somerville's Physical Geography, vol. ii., p. 452; Sir Woodbine Parish, Buenos Ayres and the Province of the Rio de la Plata, 1852, p. 343 ; Poppig, Reise in Chile und Peru, bd. i., s. 411-434. || Is it probable that the height of the summit of this remarkable volcano is gradually diminishing? A barometrical measurement by Baldey, Vidal, and Mudge, in the year 1819, gave 2975 metres, or 9760 feet; while a very accurate and practiced observer, Sainte-Claire Deville, who has done such important service to the geognosy of vol- canoes, only found 2790 metres, or 9154 feet, in the year 1842 ( Voy- age aux lies Antilles et a Vile de Fogo, p. 155). Captain King had a little while before determined the height of the volcano of Fogo to be only 2686 metres, or 8813 feet. TRUE VOLCANOES. 237 The volcano of Schiwelutsch (Kamtschatka): the northeastern sum- mil 10,551 feet, according to Erman.* ./'/ua:f according to Smyth, 10,S71 feet. Peak of Teneriffi : 12,161 feet, according to Charles DcvillcJ The volcano Ghtnvng Semeru, the highest of all mountains on the island of Java : 12,237 feet, according to Junghuhn's barometrical measurement. The volcano Erebus, lat. 77° 32', the nearest to the south pole :§ 12,3G6 feet, according to Sir James Koss. The volcano Argceus,\\ in Cappadocia, now Erdschisch-Dagh, south- southeast of Kaisarieh: 12,003 feet, according to Peter von Tschichatscheff. * Erman. Reise, bd. iii., s. 271, 275, and 297. The volcano Schi- welutsch, like Pichincha, has a form which is rare among active vol- canoes, namely, that of along ridge (chrebet), upon which single domes and crests (grebni) rise. Dome-shaped and conical mountains are always indicated in the volcanic district of the peninsula by the name sopki. t -For an account of the remarkable agreement of the trigonomet- rical with the barometrical measurement of Sir John Herschel, see Cosmos, vol. i., p. 28. X The barometrical measurement of Sainte-ClaireDeville (Voy. aux Antilles, p. 102-118), in the year 1842, gave 3706 metres, or 12,161 feet, nearly agreeing with the result (12,184 feet) of Borda's second trigonometrical measurement in the year 1776, which I was enabled to publish for the first time from the manuscript in the Depot de la Marine (Humboldt, Voy. aux Regions Equinox., t. i., p. 116 and 275- 287). Borda's first trigonometrical measurement, undertaken in con- junction with Pingre in the year 1771, gave, instead of 12,184 feet, only 11,142 feet. The cause of the error was the false reading of an angle (33' instead of 53'), as was told me by Borda himself, to whose great personal kindness I was indebted for much useful advice before my voyage on the Orinoco. § I follow Pentland's estimate of 12,367 feet, especially because in Sir James Ross's Voyage of Discovery in the Antarctic Regions, vol. i., p. 216, the height of the volcano, the eruptions of smoke and flame from which were seen even in the daytime, is given in round numbers at 12,400 feet. || With regard to Argasus, which Hamilton was the first to ascend and measure barometrically (at 12,708 feet, or 3905 metres), see Peter von Tschichatscheff, Asie Mineure (1853), t. i., p. 441-449, and 571. In his excellent work (Researches in Asia Minor), William Hamilton obtained, as the mean of one barometrical measurement and several angles of elevation, 13,000 feet ; but if the height of Kaisarieh is 1000 feet less than he supposes, it would be only 12,000 feet. See Hamil- ton, in Trans. Geolog. Society, vol. v., pt. 3, 1840, p. 596. Toward the southeast from Argrcus (Erdschisch-Dagh), in the great plain of Eregli, numerous very small cones of eruption rise to the south of the village of Karabunar and the mountain group Karadscha-Dagh. One of these, furnished with a crater, has a singular shape like that of a ship, run- ning out in front like a beak. This crater is situated in a salt lake, on the road from Karabunar to Eregli, at a distance of fully four miles 238 cosmos. Fourth group, from 12,000 to 16,000 Paris or 12,792 to 17,056 English feet in height. The volcano of Tuqtieres,* in the highlands of the prorincia de los Pastos: 12,824 feet, according to Boussingault. The volcano of Pasto:j 13,453 feet, according to Boussingault. The volcano Mauna-Roa:% 13,761 feet, according to Wilkes. The volcano of Cumbal,§ in the provincia de los Pastos : 15,621 feet, according to Boussingault. The volcano KUutscheivsk\\ (Kamtschatka) : 15, 766 feet, according to Erman. The volcano Rucu-PicMncha : 15,926 feet, according to Humboldt's barometrical measurements. The volcano Tung ur alma : 16,494 feet, according to a trigonomet- rical measurement^ by Humboldt. from the former place. The hill bears the same name (Tschichatschefi0, t. i., p. 455 ; William Hamilton, Researches in Asia Minor, vol. ii., p. 217). * The height here given is properly that of the grass-green mount- ain lake, Laguna verde, on the margin of which is situated the sol- fatara examined by Boussingault (Acosta, Viajes Cientijicos d los Andes Ecuatoriales, 1849, p. 75). f Boussingault succeeded in reaching the crater, and determined the altitude barometrically ; it agrees very nearly with that which I made known approximately twenty-three years before, on my journey from Popayan to Quito. % The altitude of few volcanoes has been so over-estimated as that of the Colossus of the Sandwich Islands. We see it gradually fall from 18,410 feet (the estimate given in Cook's third voyage), 16,486 feet in King's, and 16,611 feet in Marchand's measurement, to 13,761 feet by Captain Wilkes, and 13,524 feet by Horner in Kotzebue's voy- age. The grounds of the last-mentioned result were first made known by Leopold von Buch in the Description Physique des lies Canaries, p. 379. See Wilkes, Exploring Expedition, vol. iv., p. 111-162. The eastern margin of the crater is only 13,442 feet. The assumption of a greater height, considering the asserted freedom from snow of the Mauna-Boa (lat. 19° 28'), would also be in contradiction to the result that, according to my measurements in the Mexican continent in the same latitude, the limit of perpetual snow has been found at 14,775 feet (Humboldt, Voyage aux Regions Equinox., t. i., p. 97 ; Asie Cen- trale, t. iii., p. 269 and 359). § The volcano rises to the west of the village of Cumbal, which is itself situated 10,565 feet above the sea-level (Acosta, p. 76). || I give the result of Erman's repeated measurements in Septem- ber, 1829. The height of the margin of the crater is exposed to alter- ations by frequent eruptions, for in August, 1828, measurements which might inspire equal confidence gave an altitude of 16,033 feet. Com- pare Erman's Physikalische Beobachtungen aufeiner Reise um die Erde, bd. i., s. 400 and 419, with the historical account of the journey, bd. iii., s. 358-360. % Bouguer and La Condamine, in the inscription at Quito, give 16,777 feet for Tungurahua before the great eruption of 1772, and TRUE VOLCANOES. 239 The volcano of Purace,* near Popayan: 17,010 feet, according to Jose Caldas. Fifth group, from 10,000 to more than 20,000 Paris or from 17,050 to 21,320 English feet in height. The volcano Sangay, to the southwest of Quito: 17,128 feet, ac- cording to Bouguer and La Condamine.f The volcano Popocatepetl :% 17,729 feet, according to a trigonomet- rical measurement by Humboldt. The volcano of Orizaba .§ 17,783 feet, according to Ferrer. Elias Mount\\ (on the west coast of North America): 17,855 feet, according to the measurements of Quadra and Galeano. the earthquake of Riobamba (1797), which gave rise to great depres- sions of mountains. In the year 1802 I found the summit of the volcano trigonometrically to be only 16,494 feet. * The barometrical measurement of the highest peak of the Volcan de Purace by Francisco Jose Caldas, who, like my dear friend and traveling companion, Carlos Montufar, fell a sacriiice to his love for the independence and freedom of his country, is given by Acosta ( Viajes Cientijicos, p. 70) at 5184 metres (17,010 feet). I found the height of the small crater, which emits sulphureous vapors with a violent noise (Azufral del Boqueron), to be 14,427 feet; Humboldt, Recueil d Observ. Astro nomiques et d Operations Trigonomctriques, vol. i., p. 304. t The Sangay is extremely remarkable from its uninterrupted ac- tivity and its position, being removed somewhat to the eastward from the eastern Cordillera of Quito, to the south of the Rio Pastaza, and at a distance of 120 miles from the nearest coast of the Pacific — a position which (like that of the volcanoes of the Celestial mountains in Asia) by no means supports the theory according to which the east- ern Cordilleras of Chili are free from volcanic eruptions on account of their distance from the sea. The talented Darwin has not omitted referring in detail to this old and widely diffused volcanic littoral theory in the Geological Observations on South America, 1846, p. 185. X I measured Popocatepetl, which is also called the Volcan Grande de Mexico, in the plain of Tetimba, near the Indian village San Nico- las de los Ranchos. It seems to me to be still uncertain which of the two volcanoes, Popocatepetl or the peak of Orizaba, is the highest (see Humboldt, Receuil d Observ. Astron., vol. ii., p. 543). § The peak of Orizaba, clothed with perpetual snow, the geographic- al position of which was quite erroneously indicated on all maps be- fore my journey, notwithstanding the importance of this point for navi- gation near the landing-place in Vera Cruz, was first measured trigo- nometrically from the Encero by Ferrer, in 1796. The measurement gave 17,879 feet. I attempted a similar operation in a small plain near Xalapa. I found only 17,375 feet, but the angles of elevation were very small, and the base-line difficult to level. See Humboldt, Essai Politique sur la Nouv. Espagne, 2me ed., t. i., 1825, p. 166 ; Atlas du Mexique (Carte des fausses positions), pi. x., and Kleinere Schriften, bd. i., s. 468. || Humboldt, Essai sur la GcograpJde des Plantes, 1807, p. 153. The elevation is uncertain, perhaps more than J*th too high. 240 cosmos. The volcano of Tolima:* 18,143 feet, according to a trigonomet- rical measurement by Humboldt. The volcano of Arequipa .-f 18,883 feet, according to a trigonomet- rical measurement by Dolley. * I measured the truncated cone of the volcano of Tolima, situated at the northern extremity of the Paramo de Quindiu, in the Valle del Carvajal, near the little town of Ibague, in the year 1802. The mount- ain is also seen at a great distance upon the plateau of Bogota. At this distance Caldas obtained a tolerably approximate result (18,430 feet) by a somewhat complicated combination in the year 1806 ; Sema- nario de la Neuva Granada, nueva edicion, aumentada por J. Acosta, 1849, p. 340. f The absolute altitude of the volcano of Arequipa has been so variously stated that it becomes difficult to distinguish between mere estimates and actual measurements. Dr. Thaddaus Hanke, of Prague, the distinguished botanist of Malaspina's voyage round the world, as- cended the volcano of Arequipa in the year 1796, and found at the summit a cross which had been erected there twelve years before. By a trigonometrical operation Hanke found the volcano to be 3180 toises (20,235 feet) above the sea. This altitude, which is far too great, was probably the result of an erroneous assumption of the ele- vation of the town of Arequipa, in the vicinity of which the operation was performed. Had Hanke been provided with a barometer, a bot- anist entirely unpracticed in trigonometrical measurements would certainly not have resorted to such means after ascending to the sum- mit. The first who ascended the volcano after Hanke was Samuel Curzon, from the United States of North America {Boston Philosophic- al Journal, 1823, November, p. 168). In the year 1830 Pentland esti- mated the altitude at 5600 metres (18,374 feet), and I have adopted this number (A?muaire du Bureau des Longitudes, 1830, p. 325) for my Carte Hypsometrique de la Cordillcre des Andes, 1831. There is a satis- factory agreement (within ^-th) between this and the trigonometrical measurement of a French naval officer, INI. Dolley, for which I was indebted in 1826 to the kind communication of Captain Alphonse de Moges in Paris. Dolley found the summit of the volcano of Arequipa (trigonometrically)tobe 11,031 feet, and the summit of Charcani 11,860 feet above the plateau in which the town of Arequipa is situated. If now we fix the town of Arequipa at 7841 feet, in accordance with the barometrical measurements of Pentland and Rivero (Pentland, 7852 feet in the Table of Altitudes to the Physical Geography of Mrs. Som- erville, 3d ed., vol. ii., p. 454; Ftivero, in the Memorial de Ciencias Naturales, t. ii., Lima, 1828, p. 65 ; Meyen, Reise urn die Erde, TheiL ii., 1835, s. 5), Dolley's trigonometrical operation will give for the volcano of Arequipa 18,881 feet (2952 toises), and for the volcano Charcani 19,702 feet (3082 toises). But Pentland's Table of Alti- tudes, above cited, gives for the volcano of Arequipa 20,320 English feet, 6190 metres (19,065 Paris feet); that is to say, 1945 feet more than the determination of 1830, and somewhat too identical with Hanke's trigonometrical measurement in the year 1796! In opposi- tion to this result the volcano is stated, in the Anales de la Universidad de Chile, 1852, p. 221, only at 5600 metres, or 18,378 feet : consequent- ly 590 metres lower ! A sad condition of hypsometry ! TRUE VOLCANOES. 241 Tho volcano Cotopaxi:* 18,S81 feet, according to Bouguer. The volcano Sahama^ (Bolivia) : 22,854 feet, according toPentland. The volcano with which the fifth group ends is more than twice as high as yKtna, and live times and a half as high as Vesuvius. The scale of volcanoes that I have suggested, starting from the lowly Maars (mine-craters without a raised frame-work, which have cast forth olivin bombs sur- rounded by half-fused fragments of slate) and ascending to the still burning Sahama 22,354 feet in height, has shown us that there is no necessary connection between the maxi- mum of elevation, the smaller amount of the volcanic activi- ty and the nature of the visible species of rock. Observa- tions confined to single countries may readily lead us to er- roneous conclusions. For example, in the part of Mexico which lies in the torrid zone, all the snow-covered mount- ains— that is to say, the culminating points of the whole country — are certainly volcanoes; and this is also usually the case in the Cordilleras of Quito, if the dome-shaped trachytic mountains, not opened at the summit (Chimborazo and Corazon), are to be associated with volcanoes ; on the other hand, in the eastern chain of the Bolivian Andes the highest mountains are entirely non-volcanic. The Nevados * Boussingault, accompanied by the talented Colonel Hall, has near- ly reached the summit of Cotopaxi. He attained, according to bar- ometrical measurement, to an altitude of 5746 metres, or 18,855 feet. There was only a small space between him and the margin of the crater, but the great looseness of the snow prevented his ascending farther. Perhaps Bouguer's statement of altitude is rather too small, as his complicated trigonometrical calculation depends upon the hy- pothesis as to the elevation of the city of Quito. f The Sahama, which Pentland (Annuaire du Bureau des Longi- tudes, 1830, p. 321) distinctly calls an active volcano, is situated, ac- cording to his new map of the Vale of Titicaca (1818), to the east- ward of Arica, in the western Cordillera. It is 928 feet higher than Chimborazo, and the relative height of the lowest Japanese volcano Cosima to the Sahama is as 1 to 30. I have hesitated in placing the Chilian Aconcagua, which, stated by Fitzroy in 1835 at 23,201 feet, is, according to Pentland's correction, 23,911 feet, and according to the most recent measurement (1815) of Captain Kellet of the frigate Herald, 23,001 feet, in the fifth group, because, from the contradictory opinions of Miers {Voyage to Chili, vol. i., p. 283) and Charles Dar- win (Journal of Researches into the Geology and Natural History of the Various Countries visited by the Beagle, 2d ed., p. 291), it remains doubtful whether this colossal mountain is a still ignited Volcano. Mrs. Somerville, Pentland, and Gilliss (Naval Astr. Exped., vol. i., p. 126) also deny its activity. Darwin snys : "I was surprised at hear- ing that the Aconcagua was in action the same night (15th January, 1835), because this mountain most rarely shows any sign of action." Vol. V.— L 242 cosmos.' of Sorata (21,292 feet) and Illimani (21,153 feet) consist of oraywacke schists, which are penetrated by porphyritic masses,* in which (as a proof of this penetration) fragments of schist are inclosed. In the eastern Cordillera of Quito, south of the parallel of 1° 35', the high summits (Condoras- to, Cuvillan, and the Collanes) lying opposite to the tra- chytes, and also entering the region of perpetual snow, are also mica-slate and fire-stone. According to our present knowledge of the mineralogical nature of the most elevated parts of the Himalaya, which we owe to the meritorious la- bors of B. H. Hodgson, Jacquemont, Joseph Dalton Hooker, Thomson, and Henry Strachey, the primary rocks, as they were formerly called, granite, gneiss, and mica-slate, appear to be visible here also, although there are no trachytic for- mations. In Bolivia, Pentland has found fossil shells in the Silurian schists on the Nevado de Antacaua, 17,482 feet above the sea, between La Paz and Potosi. The enormous height to which, from the testimony of the fossils collected by Abich from Daghestan, and by myself from the Peruvian Cordilleras (between Guambos and Montan), the chalk for- mation is elevated, reminds us very vividly that non-volcan- ic sedimentary strata, full of organic Temains, and not to be confounded with volcanic tufaceous strata, show themselves in places where for a long distance around melaphyres, trachytes, dolerites, and other pyroxenic rocks, which we regard as the seat of the upheaving, urging forces, remain concealed in the depths. In what immeasurable tracts of the Cordilleras and the districts bordering them upon the east is no trace of any granitic formation visible ! The frequency of the eruptions of a volcano appearing to depend, as I have already repeatedly observed, upon multifa- * These penetrating porphyritic masses show themselves in peculiar vastness near the Illimani, in Cenipampa (15,949 feet) and Totora- pampa (13,709 feet) ; and a quartzose porphyry containing mica, and inclosing garnets, and at the same time angular fragments of silicious schist, forms the superior dome of the celebrated argentiferous Cerro de Potosi (Pentland in MSS. of 1832). The Illimani, which Pent- land estimated first at 7315 (23,973 feet), and afterward at 6415 (21,139 feet) metres, has also been, since 1847, the object of a care- ful measurement by the engineer Pissis, who, on the occasion of his great trigonometrical survey of the Llanura de Bolivia, found the Illi- mani to be on the average 6509 metres (21,349 feet) in height, by three triangles between Calamarca and La Paz: this only differs about 64 metres (210 feet) from Pentland's last determination. See Investigaciones Sobre la Altitud de los Andes, in the Anales de Chile, 1852, p. 217 and 221. TRUE VOLCANOES. 243 rious and very complicated causes, no general law can safely be established with regard to the relation of the absolute ele- vation to the frequency and degree of the renewal of combus- tion. If in a small group the comparison of Stromboli, Ve- suvius, and xEtna may mislead us into the belief that the number of eruptions is in an inverse ratio to the elevation of the volcanoes, other facts stand in direct contradiction to this proposition. Sartorius von Waltershausen, who has done such good service to our knowledge of iEtna, remarks that, on the average furnished by the last few centuries, an eruption of this volcano is to be expected every six years, while in Iceland, where no part of the island is really secure from destruction by submarine fire, the eruptions of Hecla, which is 5756 feet lower, are only observed every 70 or 80 years.* The group of volcanoes of Quito presents a still more remarkable contrast. The volcano of Sangay, 17,000 feet in height, is far more active than the little conical mountain, Stromboli (2958 feet); it is of all known volcanoes the one which exhibits, every quarter of an hour, the greatest quanti- ty of fiery, widely-luminous eruptions of scoria?. Instead of losing ourselves in hypotheses upon the causal relations of inaccessible phenomena, we will rather dwell here upon the consideration of six points of the surface of the earth? which are peculiarly important and instructive in the history of vol- canic activity — Stromboli, the Lycian Chimccra, the old vol- cano of JIasaya, the very recent one of Izalco, the volcano Forjo on the Cape Verd Islands, and the colossal Sangay. The Chimccra in Lycia, and Stromholi, the ancient Stron- gyle, are the two igneous manifestations of volcanic activity, the historic proof of whose permanence extends the furthest back. The conical hill of Stromboli, a doleritic rock, is twice the height of the island of Volcano (Hiera, Thermessa), the last great eruption of which occurred in the year 1775. The uninterrupted activity of Stromboli is compared by Strabo and Pliny with that of the island of Lipari, the ancient Me- ligunis ; but they ascribe to " its flame," that is, its erupted scoria?, "a greater purity and luminosity, with less heat."f * Sartorius von Waltershausen, Skizze von Island, s. 103 and J 07. f Strabo, lib. vi., p. 27G, eel. Casaubon; Pliny, Hist. Nat., iii., 9 : ' ' Strongyle, qiue a Lipara liquidiore flamma tantum differt ; e cujus fumo quinam flaturi sint veuti, in triduo prsedicere incoke traduntur." See also Urlichs, Vindiciaz Pliniance, 1853, Fasc. i., p. 39. Tbe volcano of Lipara (in the northeastern part of the island), once so active, appears to me to have been either the Monte Campo Jiianco or the Monte di Capo Castagne. (See Hoffmann, in Poggend., Ann., bd. xxvi., s. 49-51.) 244 cosmos. The number and form of the small fiery chasms are very va- riable. Spallanzani's description of the bottom of the cra- ter, which was long regarded as exaggerated, has been com- pletely confirmed by an experienced geognosist, Friedrich Hoffmann, and also very recently by an acute naturalist, A. de Quatrefages. One of the incandescent chasms has an opening of only 20 feet in diameter ; it resembles the pit of a blast-furnace, and the ascent and overflow of the fluid lava are seen in it every hour, from a position on the margin of the crater. The ancient, permanent eruptions of Strombo- li still sometimes serve for the guidance of the mariner, and, as among the Greeks and Romans, afibrd uncertain predic- tions of the weather, by the observation of the direction of the flame and of the ascending column of vapor. Polybius, who displays a singularly exact knowledge of the state of the crater, connects the multifarious signs of an approaching change of wind with the myth of the earliest sojourn of JEo- lus upon Strongyle, and still more with observations upon the then violent fire upon Volcano (the " holy island of Hephass- tos "). The frequency of the igneous phenomena has of late exhibited some irregularity. The activity of Stromboli, like that of iEtna, according to Sartorius von Waltershausen, is greatest in November and the winter months. It is some- times interrupted by isolated intervals of rest ; but these, as we learn from the experience of centuries, are of very short duration. The Chimcera in Lycia, which has been so admirably de- scribed by Admiral Beaufort, and to which I have twice re- ferred,* is no volcano, but a perpetual burning spring — a gas * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 223, and vol. v., p. 203. Albert Berg, who had previously published an artistic work, Physiognomic der Tropischen Vegetation von Sudama-ika, visited the Lycian Chimaara, near Delik- tasch and Yanartasch, from Rhodes and the Gulf of Myra, in 1853. (The Turkish word tdsch signifies stone, as ddgh and. tdgh signify mount- ain; deliktasch signifies perforated stone, from the Turkish delik, a hole.) The traveler first saw the serpentine rocks near Adrasan, while Beaufort met with the dark-colored serpentine deposited upon lime- stone, and perhaps deposited in it, even near the island Garabusa (not Grambusa), to the south of Cape Chelidonia. "Near the ruins of the ancient temple of Vulcan rise the remains of a Christian church in the later Byzantine style : the remains of the nave and of two side chap- els. In the fore-court, situated to the east, the flame breaks out of a fireplace-like opening about two feet broad and one foot high in the serpentine rock. It rises to a height of three or four feet, and (as a naphtha spring?) diffuses a pleasant odor, which is perceptible to a distance of forty paces. Near this large flame, and without the chim- ney-like opening, numerous very small, constantly ignited, lambent TRUE VOLCANOES. 245 spring alwajS ignited by the volcanic activity of the interior of the earth. It was visited a few months ago by a talented artist, Albert Berg, for the purpose of making a picturesque survey of this locality, celebrated even in periods of high an- tiquity (since the times of Ctesias and Scylax of Caryanda), and of collecting. the rocks from which the Chimaera breaks forth. The descriptions of Beaufort, Professor Edward Forbes, and Lieutenant Spratt in the " Travels in Lycia," are completely confirmed. An eruptive mass of serpentine rock penetrates the dense limestone in a ravine, which ascends from southeast to northwest. At the northwestern extrem- ity of this ravine the serpentine rock is cut off, or perhaps only concealed, by a curved ridge of limestone rocks. The fragments brought home are partly green and fresh, partly brown and in a weathered state. In both serpentines diallage is clearly recognizable. The volcano of Masaya* the fame of which was already flames make their appearance from subordinate fissures. The rock which is in contact with the flame is much blackened, and the soot deposited is collected to alleviate smarting of the eyelids, and espe- cially for coloring the eyebrows. At a distance of three paces from the flame of the Chimaera the heat which it diffuses is scarcely endura- ble. A piece of dry wood ignites when it is held in the opening and brought near the flame without touching it. Where the old ruined walls lean against the rock, gas also pours forth from the interstices of the stones of the masoniy, and this, probably from its being of a lower temperature or differently composed, does not ignite spontaneously, but whenever it is brought in contact with a light. Eight feet below the great flame in the interior of the ruins there is a round opening, six feet in depth, but only three feet wide, which was probably arched over formerly, as a spring of water breaks out in it in the wet seasons, near a fissure over which a small flame plays." (From the traveler's manuscripts.) On a plan of the locality, Berg shows the geographical relations of the alluvial strata, of the (tertiary ?) limestone, and of the serpentine rocks. * The oldest and most important notice of the volcano of Masaya is contained in a manuscript of Oviedo's, first edited fourteen years ago by the meritorious historical compiler, Ternaux-Compans — Historic/, de Nicaragua (cap. v. to x.), see p. 115-197. The French translation forms one volume of the Voyages, Relations et Mcmoires Originaux pour sermr a fllistoire et a la Decouverte de V Amerique. See also Lopez de Gomara, Historia General de las Indias (Zaragoza, 1553), fol. ex., b ; and among the most recent works, Squier, Nicaragua, its People, Scenery, and Monuments, 1853, vol. i., p. 211-223, and vol. ii., p. 17. So wide- ly-famed was the incessantly active volcano of Masaya, that a special monograph of this mountain exists in the royal library at Madrid, un- der the title of Entrada y Dcscubrimiento del Volcan de Masaya, que estd en la Prov. de Nicaragua, fecha por Juan Sanchez del Porter o. The au- thor was one of those who let themselves down into the crater in the 246 cosmos. widely spread in the beginning of the 16th century under the name of el Infierno de Masaya, and gave occasion for re- ports to the Emperor Charles V., is situated between the two lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, to the southwest of the charming Indian village of Nindiri. For centuries together it presented the same rare phenomenon that we have described in the volcano of Stromboli. From the margin^of the crater the waves of fluid lava, set in motion by vapors, were seen rising and falling in the incandescent chasm. The Spanish historian, Gonzalez Fernando de Oviedo, first ascended the Masaya in July, 1529, and made comparisons with Vesuvius, which he had previously visited (1501), in the suite of the Queen of Naples as her xefe de guardaropa. The name Ma- saya belongs to the Chorotega language of Nicaragua, and signifies burning mountain. The volcano, surrounded by a wide lava-field (mal-pays), which it has probably itself pro- duced, was at that time reckoned among the mountain group of the "nine burning Maribios." In its ordinary condition, says Oviedo, the surface of the lava, upon which black scoriae float, stands several hundred feet below the margin of the crater; but sometimes the ebullition is suddenly so great that the lava nearly reaches the upper margin. The per- petual luminous phenomenon, as Oviedo definitely and acute- ly states, is not caused by an actual flame,* but by vapors illuminated from below. It is said to have been of such in- tensity that on the road from the volcano toward Granada, wonderful expeditions of the Dominican monk, Fray Bias de Inesta (Oviedo, Hist, de Nicaragua, p. 141). * In the French translation of Ternaux-Compans (the Spanish original has never been published), we find, at p. 123 and 132 : " It can not, however, be said precisely that a flame issues from the crater, but a smoke as hot as fire ; it is not seen from far during the day, but is well seen at night. The volcano gives as much light as the moon a few days before it is at the full." This old observation upon the prob- lematical mode of illumination of a crater, and the strata of air lying above it, is not without importance, on account of the doubt, so often raised in recent times, as to the disengagement of hydrogen gas from the craters of volcanoes. Although in the ordiDary condition here in- dicated the Hell of Masaya did not throw out scoria or ashes (Gomara adds, cosa que hazen otros volcanes), it has nevertheless sometimes had true eruptions of lava ; the last of which probably occurred in the year 1670. Since that date the volcano has been quite extinct, after a per- petual luminosity had been observed for 140 years. Stephens, who as- cended it in 1840, found no perceptible trace of ignition. Upon the Chorotega language, the signification of the word Masaya, and the Maribios, see Buschmann's ingenious ethnographical researches, Ueber die Aztekischen Ortsnamen, s. 130, 140, and 171. TRUE VOLCANOES. 247 at a distance of more than three leagues, the illumination of the district was almost equal to that of the full moon. Bight years after Oviedo, the volcano was ascended by the Dominican monk. Fray Bias del Castillo, who enter- tained the absurd opinion that the iluid lava in the crater was liquid gold, and associated himself with an equally ava- ricious Flemish Franciscan, Fray Juan do Gandavo. The pair availing themselves of the credulity of the Spanish set- tlers, established a joint-stock company to obtain the metal at the common cost. They themselves, Oviedo adds satiric- ally, declared that as ecclesiastics they were free from any pecuniary contributions. The report upon the execution of this bold undertaking, which was sent to the Bishop of Cas- tilla del Oro, Thomas de Verlenga, by Fray Bias del Cas- tillo (the same person who is denominated Fray Bias de In- esta in the writings of Gomara, Benzoni, and Herrera), was only made known (in 1840) by the discovery of Oviedo's work upon Nicaragua. Fray Bias, who had previously served on board ship as a sailor, proposed to imitate the method of hanging upon ropes over the sea, by which the natives of the Canary Islands collect the coloring matter of the Orchil (Lichen Roccella) on precipitous rocks. For months together all sorts of preparations were made, in order to let down a beam of more than thirty feet in length, by means of a windlass and crane, so that it might project over the deep abyss. The Dominican, his head covered with an iron helmet and a crucifix in his hand, was let down with three other members of the association ; they re- mained for a whole night in this part of the solid crater bot- tom, from which they made vain attempts to dip out the supposed liquid gold with earthen vessels, placed in an iron pot. Not to frighten the shareholders, they agreed* that * "The three companions agreed to say that they had found great riches; and Fray Bias, whom I had known as an ambitious man, gives, in his relation, the oath which he and his associates took upon the Gospel, to persist forever in their opinion that the volcano con- tained gold and silver in a state of fusion !" (Oviedo, Descr. de Nic- aragua, cap. x., p. 18G and 19G). The Cronista de las Indias is, how- ever, very indignant (cap. 5) that Fray Bias narrated that "Oviedo had begged the Hell of Masaya from the emperor as his armorial bearings." Such a geognostic memento would certainly not have been in opposition to the heraldic customs of the period, for the cour- ageous Diego de Ordaz, who boasted of having reached the crater of the Popocatepetl when Cortez first penetrated into the valley of Mex- ico, bore this volcano as an heraldic distinction, as did Oviedo the 248 cosmos. when they were drawn up again they should say that they had found great riches, and that the Injierno of Masaya de- served in future to be called el Paraiso del Masaya. The op- eration was afterward repeated several times, until the Gov- ernor of the neighboring city of Granada conceived some sus- picion of the deceit, or perhaps of a fraud upon the revenue, and forbade any " further descents on ropes into the crater." This took place in the summer of 1538 ; but in 1551 Juan Alvarez, the Dean of the Chapter of Leon, again received from Madrid the naive permission " to open the volcano and procure the gold that it contained." Such was the popular credulity of the 16th century! But even in Naples, in the year 1822, Monticelli and Covelli were obliged to prove, by chemical analysis, that the ashes thrown out from Vesuvius on the 28th October contained no gold !* The volcano of Izalco, situated on the west coast of Cen- tral America, 32 miles northward from San Salvador, and eastward from the harbor of Sonsonate, broke out 1 1 years after the volcano of Jorullo, deep in the interior of Mexico. Both eruptions took place in a cultivated plain, and after the prevalence of earthquakes and subterranean noises {bramidos) for several months. A conical hill rose in the Llano de Izalco, and with it simultaneously an eruption of lava poured from its summit on the 23d February, 1770. It still remains undecided how much is to be attributed, in the rapidly-in- creasing height, to the upheaval of the soil, and how much to the accumulation of erupted scorise, ashes, and tufa masses ; only this much is certain, that since the first eruption the new volcano, instead of soon becoming extinguished, like Jo- rullo, has remained uninterruptedly active, and often serves as a beacon-light for mariners near the landing-place in the Bay of Acajutla. Four fiery eruptions are counted in an hour, and the great regularity of the phenomenon has aston- ished its few accurate observers.! The violence of the erup- tions was variable, but not the time of their occurrence. The elevation which the volcano of Izalco has now attained since the last eruption of 1825 is calculated at about 1600 feet, nearly the same as the elevation of Jorullo above the original cultivated plain, but almost four times that of the constellation of the Southern Cross, and earliest of all Columbus {Exam, crit., t. iv., p. 23.5-240), a fragment of a map of the Antilles. * Humboldt, Views of Nature, p. 368. t Squier, Nicaragua, its People and Monuments, vol. ii., p. 104. (John Bailey, Central America, 1850, p. 75.) TRUE VOLCANOES. 249 crater of elevation (Monte Nnovo) in the Phlcgrocan Fields, to which Scacchi* ascribes a height of 432 feet from accu- rate measurement. The permanent activity of the volcano of Izalco, which was long considered as a safety-valve for the neighborhood of San Salvador, did not, however, pre- serve the town from complete destruction on Easter eve in this year (185-1). One of the Cape Verd Islands, which rises between S. Jago and Brava, early received from the Portuguese the name of Jlha do Fogo, because, like Stromboli, it produced fire unin- terruptedly from 1G80 to 1713. After a long repose, the volcano of this island resumed its activity in the summer of the year 1798, soon after the last lateral eruption of the Peak ofTeneriffc in the crater of Chahorra, which is errone- ously denominated the volcano of Chahorra, as if it were a distinct mountain. The most active of the South American volcanoes, and indeed of all those which I have here specially indicated, is the Sangay, which is also called the Volcan de Mams, be- cause the remains of this ancient city, so populous in the early period of the Conquista, are situated upon the Rio Upano, only 28 geographical miles to the south of it. The colossal mountain, 17,128 feet in height, has risen on the eastern declivity of the eastern Cordillera, between two sys- tems of tributaries of the Amazons, those of the Pastaza and the Upano. The grand and unequaled fiery phenomenon which it now exhibits appears only to have commenced in the year 1728. During the astronomical measurements of degrees by Bouguer and La Condamine (1738 to 1740), the Sangay served as a perpetual fire signal. f In the year 1802, I myself heard its thunder for months together, espe- cially in the early morning, in Chillo, the pleasant country seat of the Marquis de Selvalegre near Quito, as half a cen- tury previously Don Jorge Juan had perceived the ronquidos del Sangay, somewhat further toward the northeast, near Pintac, at the foot of the Antisana.J In the years 1842 * Memorie geologiche sulla Campania, 1849, p. Gl. I found the height of the volcano of Jorullo to be 1GS2 feet above the plain in which it rose, and 42G6 feet above the sea-level. f La Condamine, Journal du Voyage a t Equateur, p. 163 ; and in the Mesure de Trois Degres de la Mcridienne de V Hemisphere Austral., p. 56. X In the country house of the Marquis of Selvalegre, the father of my unfortunate companion and friend, Don Carlos Montufar, one was often inclined to ascribe the Iramidos, which resembled the discharge L2 250 cosmos. and 1843, when the eruptions were associated with most noise, the latter was heard most distinctly not only in the harbor of Guayaquil, but also further to the south along the coast of the Pacific Ocean, as far as Payta and San Buena- ventura, at a distance equal to that of Berlin from Basle, the Pyrenees from Fontainebleau, or London from Aber- deen. Although, since the commencement of the present century, the volcanoes of Mexico, New Granada, Quito, Bolivia, and Chili have been visited by some geognosists, the Sangay, which exceeds the Tungurahua in elevation, has unfortunately remained entirely neglected, in consequence of of a distant battery of heavy artillery, and which with the same wind, the same clearness of the atmosphere, and the same temperature, were so extremely unequal in their intensity, not to the Sangay, hut to the Guacamayo, a mountain forty miles nearer, at the foot of which a road leads from Quito, over the hacienda de Antisana to the plains of Archidona and the Rio Napo. (See my special map of the prov- ince Quixos, No. 23 of my Atlas Geogr. et Phys. de V Amerique, 1814- 1834.) Don Jorge Juan, who heard the Sangay thundering when closer to it than I have been, says decidedly that the bramidos, which he calls ronquidos del Volcan (Relation del Viage a la America Meridional, pt. i., t. 2, p. 569), and perceived in Pintac, a few miles from the hacienda de Chillo, belong to the Sangay or Volcan de Macas, whose voice, if I may make use of the expression, is very characteristic. This voice appeared to the Spanish astronomer to be peculiarly harsh, for which reason he calls it a snore (un ronquido) rather than a roar (bramido). The very disagreeable noise of the volcano Pichincha, which I have frequently heard at night in the city of Quito, without its being followed by any earthquake, has something of a clear rattling sound, as though chains were rattled and masses of glass were falling upon each other. On the Sangay, Wisse describes the noise to be sometimes like rolling thunder, sometimes distinct and sharp, as if one were in the vicinity of platoon firing. Payta and San Buenaven- tura (in the Choco), where the bramidos of the Sangay, that is to say, its roaring, were heard, are distant from the summit of the vol- cano, in a southwestern direction, 252 and 348 geographical miles. (See Carte de la JProv. Du Choco, and Carte hypsometriqve des Cordil- leres, Nos. 23 and 3 of my Atlas Geogr. et Physique.) Thus, in this mighty spectacle of nature, reckoning in the Tungurahua and the Co- topaxi, which is nearer to Quito, and the roar of which I heard in February, 1803, in the Pacific Ocean (Kleinere Schri/ten, bd. i., s. 384), the voices of four volcanoes are perceived at adjacent points. The ancients also mention " the difference of the noise," emitted at different times on the JEolian islands by the same fiery chasm (Strabo, lib. vi., p. 276). During the great eruption (23d January, 1835) of the volcano of Conseguina, which is situated on the coast of the Pacific, at the entrance of the Bay of Fonseca, in Central Ameri- ca, the subterranean propagation of the sound was so great, that it was most distinctly perceived on the plateau of Bogota, at a distance equal to that from iEtna to Hamburg (Acosta, Viajes Cieutijicos do, M. Boussingav.lt a los Andes, 1849, s. 5G). TRUE VOLCANOES. 251 its solitary position, at a distance from all roads of commu- nication. It was only in December, 18 19, that an adven- turous and highly informed traveler, Sebastian Wisse, after a sojourn of five years on the chain of the Andes, ascended it, and nearly reached the extreme summit of the snow- covered, precipitous cone. lie not only made an accu- rate chronomctric determination of the wonderful frequency of the eruptions, but also investigated the nature of the trachyte which, confined to such a limited space, breaks through the gneiss. As has already been remarked,* 2G7 eruptions were counted in one hour, each lasting on an average 13" -4, and, which is very remarkable, unaccom- panied by any concussion perceptible on the ashy cone. The erupted matter, enveloped in much smoke, sometimes of a gray and sometimes of an orange color, is principally a mix- ture of black ashes and rapilli, but it also consists partly of cinders, which rise perpendicularly, are of a globular form and a diameter of 15 or 1G inches. In one of the more vio- lent eruptions, however, Wisse counted only fifty or sixty red-hot stones as being simultaneously thrown out. They usually fall back again into the crater, but sometimes they cover its upper margin, or, visible by their luminosity at a distance, glide down at night upon a portion of the cone, which, when seen from a great way off, probably gave origin to the erroneous notion of La Condamine, " that there was an effusion of burning sulphur and bitumen." The stones rise singly one after the other, so that some of them are fall- ing down while others have only just left the crater. By an exact determination of time, the visible space of falling (calculated, therefore, to the margin of the crater) was ascer- tained to be on the average only 78G feet. On JEtna, ac- cording to the measurements of Sartorius von Waltershau- sen and the astronomer D. Christian Peters, the ejected stones attain an elevation of as much as 26G5 feet above the walls of the crater. Gemellaro's estimates during the eruption of JEtna in 1832 gave even three times this eleva- tion ! The black, erupted ashes form layers of three or four hundred feet in thickness upon the declivities of the Sangay for a circle of nearly fourteen miles in circumference. The color of the ashes and rapilli gives the upper part of the cone a fearfully stern character. We must here again call attention to the colossal size of this volcano, which is six times greater than that of Stromboli, as this consideration is * Cosmos, see page 175. 252 cosmos. strongly in opposition to the absolute belief that the lower volcanoes always have the most frequent eruptions. The grouping of volcanoes is of more importance than their form and elevation, because it relates to the great geo- logical phenomenon of upheaval upon fissures. These groups, whether, according to Leopold von Buch, they rise in lines, or, united around a central volcano, indicate the parts of the crust of the earth, where the eruption of the fused in- terior has found the least resistance, in consequence either of the reduced thickness of the rocky strata, of their natural structure, or of their having been originally fissured. Three degrees of latitude are occupied by the space in which the volcanic energy is formidably manifested in ^Etna, in the JEolian islands, in Vesuvius, and the parched land (the Phle- graean Fields) from Puteoli (Dicasarchia) to Cumas, and as far as the fire-vomiting Epopeus on Ischia, the Tyrrhenian isl- and of Apes, JEnaria. Such a connection of analogous phenomena could not escape the notice of the Greeks. Stra- bo says: "The whole sea, commencing from Cumas, as far as Sicily, is penetrated by fire, and has in its depths certain conduits communicating with each other and with the conti- nent.* In such a (combustible) nature, as all describe it, ap- * See Strabo, lib. v., p. 248, Casaubon : exec Kh., xv., 299). Between the wind and the fire there is a peculiar relation. (To izvp orav fieru TTVEVfiaroQ ?}, yiverat ^Aof nal (piperai Taxeuc; Aristotle, Meteorol., ii., 8, 3. — nal yup to 7tvp olov 7rvev/nar6g tic tyvcic ; Theo- phrastus, De Igne, § 30, p. 715.) The wind (pnevma) suddenly set free from the clouds, sends the consuming and widely luminous light- ning flash (jrpTjGTTjp). "In the Phlegraea, the Katakekaumene of Lydia," says Strabo (lib. xiii., p. 628), *' three chasms, fully forty 254 cosmos. and the sea-girt heights above Cumos (called Phlegra, or the burned field) lie upon the shaggy breast of the monster." Thus Typhon (the raging Enceladus) was, in the popular fancy of the Greeks, the mythical symbol of the unknown cause of volcanic phenomena lying deep in the interior of the earth. By the position and the space which he occupied were indicated the limitation and the co-operation of partic- ular volcanic systems. In the fanciful geological picture of the interior of the earth, in the great contemplation of the universe which Plato establishes in the Phasdo (p. 112-114), this co-operation is still more boldly extended to all volcanic systems. The lava streams derive their materials from the Pyriphlegethon, which, " after it has repeatedly rolled around beneath the earth," pours itself into Tartarus. Plato says expressly that the fire-vomiting mountains, wherever such occur upon the earth, blow upward small portions from the Pyriphlegethon (" ovrog 6' sorlv 6v inovofid^ovot TlvpupXe- yidovra, ov koI ol pvatieq drcoaTrdafiara dvcKpvo&otv, ottt] dv rvx^oi rrjg y^c"). This expression (p. 113 B.) of the expulsion with violence refers, to a certain extent, to the moving force of the previously - inclosed wind, then sud- denly breaking through, upon which the Stagirite after- ward, in the Meteorology, founded his entire theory of vul- canicity. According to these ancient views, the linear arrangement of volcanoes is more distinctly characterized in the consider- ation of the entire body of the earth than their grouping around a central volcano". The serial arrangement is most stadia from each other, are still shown, which are called the wind- bags ; above them lie rough hills, which are probably piled up by the red-hot masses blown up." He had already stated (lib. i., p. 57) "that between the Cyclades (Thera and Therasia) flames of fire burst forth from the sea for four days together, so that the whole sea boiled and burned; and an island composed of calcined masses was gradually raised as if by a lever." All these well-described phenomena are ascribed to the compressed wind, acting like elastic vapors. Ancient physical science troubled itself but little about the peculiar essentials of material bodies ; it was dynamic, and depended on the measure of the moving force. We find the opinion that the increasing heat of the planet with the depth is the cause of volcanoes and earthquakes, first expressed toward the close of the third century by a Christian bishop in Africa under Diocletian (Cosmos, vol. v., p. 1S8). The Pyri- phlegethon of Plato, as a stream of fire circulating in the interior of the earth, nourishes all lava-giving volcanoes, as we have already men- tioned in the text. In the earliest presentiments of humanity, in a narrow circle of ideas, lie the germs of that which we now think we may explain under the form of other symbols. TRUE VOLCANOES. 255 remarkable in those places where it depends upon the situa- tion and extension of fissures, which, usually parallel to each Other, pass through great tracts of country in a linear direc- tion (like Cordilleras). Thus, to mention only the most im- portant series of closely-approximated volcanoes, we find in the new continent those of Central America, with their ap- pendages in Mexico; those of New Granada and Quito, of Peru, Bolivia, and Chili; in the old continent the Sunda Inl- ands (the Indian Archipelago, especially Java), the peninsu- la of Kamtschatka and its continuation in the Kurile Islands, and the Aleutian Islands, which bound the nearly-closed Beh- ring's Sea on the south. We shall dwell upon some of the principal groups ; individual details, by being brought to- gether, lead us to the causes of phenomena. The linear volcanoes of Central America, according to the older denominations the volcanoes of Costa Rica, Nicaragua, San Salvador, and Guatemala, extend from the volcano Tup- rialva, near Cartago, to the volcano of Soconusco, over six degrees of latitude, between 10° 9/ and 16° 2', in a line the general direction of which is from S.E. to N.W., and which, with the few curvatures which it undergoes, has a length of 540 geographical miles. This length is about equal to the distance from Vesuvius to Prague. The most closely-ap- proximated of them, as if they had broken out upon one and the same fissure only 64 miles in length, arc the eight volca- noes situated between the Laguna de Managua and the Bay of Fonseca, between the volcano of Momotombo and that of Consesruina, the subterranean noise of which was heard in Jamaica and on the highlands of Bogota in the year 1835, like the lire of artillery. In Central America and the whole southern part of the new continent, and generally from the Chonos Archipelago, in Chili, to the most northern volcanoes of Mount Edgecombe, on the small island near Sitka,* and Mount Elias, on Prince William's Sound, for a length of 6400 geographical miles, the volcanic fissures have every where broken out in the western part, or that nearest to the * Mount Edgecombe, or the St. Lazarus mountain, upon the small island (Croze's Island, near Lisiansky) which is situated to the west- ward, near the northern half of the larger island Sitka or Baranow, in Norfolk Sound, was seen by Cook, and is a hill partly composed of basalt abounding in olivin, and partly of feldspathic trachyte. Its height is only 2770 feet. Its last great eruption, which produced much pumice-stone", was in the year 1796. (Lutke, Voyage autour du Monde, 1836, t. hi., p. 15.) Eight years afterward Captain Lisiansky reached the summit, which contains a crater-lake. He found at that time no si^ns of activity any where on the mountain. 256 cosmos. Pacific Ocean. Where the line of the Central American vol- canoes enters with the volcano of Conchagua into the state of San Salvador, in the latitude of 13^° (to the north of the Bay of Fonseca), the direction of the volcanoes changes at once with that of the west coast. The series of the former then strikes E.S.E. — W.N.W. ; indeed, where the burning mountains are again so closely approximated that five, still more or less active, are counted in the short distance of 120 miles, the direction is nearly E. — W, This deviation cor- responds with a great dilatation of the continent toward the east in the peninsula of Honduras, where the coast tends also suddenly, exactly east and west, from Cape Gracias a Dios to the Gulf of Amatique for 300 miles, after it had been pre- viously running from north to south for the same distance. In the group of elevated volcanoes of Guatemala (lat. 14° 10') the series again acquires its old direction, N. 45° W., which it continues as far as the Mexican boundary toward Chiapa and the isthmus of Huasacualco. Northwest of the volcano of Soconusco to that of Tuxtla, not even an extinct trachytic cone has been discovered ; in this quarter granite abounding in quartz and mica-schist predominate. The volcanoes of Central America do not crown the ad- jacent mountain chains, but rise along the foot of the latter, usually completely separated from each other. The greatest elevations lie at the two extremities of the series. Toward the south, in Costa Eica, both seas are visible from the sum- mit of the Irasu (the volcano of Cartago), to which, besides its elevation (11,081 feet), its central position contributes. To the southeast of Cartago there stand mountains of ten or eleven thousand feet : the Chiriqui (11,262 feet) and the Pico Blanco (11,740 feet). We know nothing of the nature of their rock, but they are probably unopened trachytic cones. Farther toward the southeast, the elevations diminish in Ver- agua to six and five thousand feet. This appears also to be the average height of the volcanoes of Nicaragua and San Sal- vador ; but toward the northwestern extremity of the whole series, not far from the new city of Guatemala, two volcanoes again rise above 13,000 feet. The maxima consequently fall into the third group of my attempted hypsometric classifica- tion of volcanoes, coinciding; with iEtna and the Peak of Ten- erifFe, while the greater number of the heights lying between the two extremities scarcely exceed Vesuvius by 2000 feet. The volcanoes of Mexico, New Granada, and Quito belong to the fifth group, and usually attain an elevation of more than 17,000 feet. TRUE VOLCANOES. 257 Although the continent of Central America increases con- siderably in breadth from the isthmus of Panama, through Veragua, Costa Rica, and Nicaragua, to the latitude of 11 1 °, the great area of the Lake of Nicaragua and the small eleva- tion of its surface (scarcely 128 feet* above the two seas) gives rise to such a degradation of the land exactly in this district, that by it an ovcriiow of air from the Caribbean Sea into the Great South Sea is often caused, bringing danger to the voy- ager in the so-called Pacific Ocean. The northeast storms thus excited have received the name of Papagayos, and some- times rage without intermission for four or five days. They have the remarkable peculiarity that during their continu- ance the sky usually remains quite cloudless. The name is borrowed from the part of the west coast of Nicaragua be- tween Brito or Cabo Desolado and Punta S. Elena (from 11° 22/ to 10° SO'), which is called Golfo del Papagayo, and in- cludes the small bays of Salinas and S. Elena, to the south of the Puerto de San Juan del Sur. On my voyage from Guayaquil to Acapulco, I was able to observe the Papagayos, in all their violence and peculiarity, for more than two whole days (9th — 11th March, 1803), although rather more to the south, in less than 9° 13/ of latitude. The waves rose higher than I have ever seen them ; and the constant visibility of the disk of the sun in the bright, blue arch of heaven enabled me to measure the height of the waves by altitudes of the sun taken upon the ridge of the wave and in the trough, by a method which had not been tried at that time. All Span- ish, English, f and American voyagers ascribe the above-de- scribed storms of the Southern Ocean to the northeast trade- wind of the Atlantic. In a new workf which I have undertaken with much as- * Even under the Spanish government in 1781, the Spanish engi- neer, Don Jose Galisteo, had found for the surface of tho Laguna of Nicaragua an elevation only six feet greater than that given by Baily in his different levelings in 1838 (Humboldt, Relation Historique, t. iii.7 p. 321). t See Sir Edward Belcher, Voyage round the World, vol. i., p. 185. According to my chronometric longitude, I was in the Papagayo storm, 19° 11' to the west of the meridian of Guayaquil, and consequently 99° 9' west, and 880 miles west of the shore of Costa Rica. X My earliest work upon seventeen linear volcanoes of Guatemala and Nicaragua is contained in tbe Geographical Journal of Berghaus (Hertha, bd. vi., 182G, p. 131-1G1). Besides the old Chronista Fu- entes (lib. ix., cap. 9), I could then only make use of the important work of Domingo Juarros, Con/pendio de la llistoria de la C'mdad de Guatemala, and of the three maps by Galisteo (drawn in 1781, at the 258 COSMOS. siduity — partly from materials already published, and partly from manuscript notes — upon the linear volcanoes of Cen- command of the Mexican viceroy, Matias de Galvez), by Jose Rossi y Rubi (Alcalde Mayor de Guatemala, 1800), and by Joaquin Ysasi and Antonio de la Cerda (Alcalde de Granada), which I possessed princi- pally in manuscript. In the French translation of his work upon the Canary Islands, Leopold von Buch has given a masterly extension of my first sketch (Descr. Physique des Isles Canaries, 1836, p. 500-511) ; but the uncertainty of geographical synonyms and the confusion of names caused thereby gave rise to many doubts, which have been for the most part removed by the fine maps of Baily and Saunders ; by Molina's Bosquejo de la Republica de Costa Rica ; and by the great and very meritorious work of Squier (Nicaragua, its People and Monuments, with Tables of the Comparative Heights of 'the Mountains in Central Amer- ica, 1852, vol. i., p. 418, and vol. ii., p. 102). The important work which is promised us by Dr. Oerstedt, under the title of Schilderung der Naturverhaltnisse von Nicaragua und Costa Rica, besides the ad- mirable botanical and geological discoveries which constitute the pri- mary object of the undertaking, will also throw fight upon the geog- nostic nature of Central America. Dr. Oersted passed through that region in various directions from 1816 to 1848, and brought back a collection of rocks to Copenhagen. I am indebted to his friendly communications for interesting corrections of my fragmentary work. From a careful comparison of the materials with which I am acquaint- ed, including those collected by Hesse, the Prussian consul-general in Central America, which are of great value, I bring together the vol- canoes of Central America in the following manner, proceeding from south to north : Above the central plateau of Cartago (4648 feet), in the republic of Costa Rica (lat. 10° 9), rise the three volcanoes of Turrialva, Irasu, and Reventado, of which the first two are still ignited. Volcan de Turrialva* (height about 11,000 feet) is, according to Oersted, only separated from the Irasu by a deep, narrow ravine. Its summit, from which columns of smoke rise, has not yet been ascended. The volcano Irasu,^ also called the volcano of Cartago (11,100 feet), to the northeast of the volcano Reventado, is the principal vent of volcanic activity in Costa Rica, but still remarkably accessible, and toward the south divided into terraces in such a manner that one may, on horseback, almost reach the elevated summit, from which the two oceans, the sea of the Antilles and the Pacific, may be seen at once. The cone of ashes and rapilli, which is about a thousand feet in height, rises out of a wall of circumvallation (a crater of elevation). In the flatter, northeastern part of the sum- mit lies the true crater, of 7500 feet in circumference, which has never emitted lava streams. Its eruptions of scoria? have often (1723, 1726, 1821, 1817) been accompanied by destructive earth- quakes, the effect of which has been felt from Nicaragua or Rivas to Panama (Oersted). During a very recent ascent of the Irasu, in the beginning of May, 1855, by Dr. Carl Hoffmann, the crater of the summit and its eruptive orifices have been more accurate- ly investigated. The altitude of the volcano is stated, from a TRXTE VOLCANOES. 259 tral America, twenty-nine volcanoes arc numbered, whose former or present varied activity may be stated with ccr- trigonometrica] measurement by Galindo, at 12,000 Spanish feet, or, taking the vara cast.- 0'43 of a toise, at 11,000 feet. (Bon- piandia) Jahrgang 1850, No. 3.) El Ueventado (about 9500 feet), with a deep crater, of which the southern margin has fallen in, and which was formerly tilled with water. The volcano Barha (more than 84 19 feet), to the north of San Jose, the capital of Costa Eica ; with a crater which contains several small lakes. Between the volcanoes Barba and Orosi there follows a series of volcanoes which intersects the principal chain, running S.E. — N.W. in Costa Eica and Nicaragua, almost in the opposite direction, east and west. Upon such a fissure stand, farther to the eastward, Miravalks and Tenorio (each of these volcanoes is about 4689 feet) ; in the cen- tre, to the southeast of Orosi, the volcano Rincon, also called Rincon de la Vieja* (Squier, vol. ii., p. 102), which exhibits small eruptions of ashes every spring at the commencement of the rainy season ; and farthest to the westward, near the little town of Alajuela, the volcano Votos* (7513 feet), which abounds in sulphur. Dr. Oersted compares this phenomenon of the direction of volcanic activity upon a trans- verse fissure with the east and west direction, which I found in the Mexican volcanoes from sea to sea. Orosi,* still active, in the most southern part of the state of Nica- ragua (5222 feet) ; probably the Volcan del Papagayo, on the chart of the Deposito Hidrogrqfico. The two volcanoes Mandeira and Ometepec* (4157 and 5222 feet), upon a small island in the western part of the Laguna de Nicaragua, named by the Aztec inhabitants of the district after these two mount- ains (pme tepetl signifies two mountains ; see Buschmann, Aztekische Ortsnamen, p. 178 and 171). The insular volcano Ometepec, errone- ously named Ometep by Juarros (Hist, de Guatemala, t. i., p. 51), is still in activity. It is figured by Squier (vol. ii., p. 235). The extinct crater of the island Zapatera, but little elevated above the sea-level. The period of its ancient eruptions is quite unknown. The volcano of Momobacho, on the western shore of the Laguna de Nicaragua, somewhat to the south of the city of Granada. As this city is situated between the volcanoes of Momobacho (the place is also called Mombacho, Oviedo, Nicaragua, ed. Ternaux, p. 245) and Ma- saya, the pilots indicate sometimes the one and sometimes the other of these conical mountains by the indefinite name of the Volcano of Granada. The volcano Massaya (Masaya), which has already been treated of in detail (p. 258-261), was once a Stromboli, but has been extinct since the great eruption of lava in 1670. According to the interesting reports of Dr. Schcrzer (JSitzungsberichte der Philos. Hist. Classe der Akad. der Wiss. zu Wien, hd. xx., s. 58), dense clouds of vapor were again emitted in April, 1853, from a newly-opened crater. The vol- cano of Massaya is situated between the two lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, to the west of the city of Granada. Massaya is not synony- 260 cosmos. tainty. The natives make the number more than one third greater, taking into account a quantity of old eruptive ba- mous with Nindiri ; but, as Dr. Oersted expresses himself, Massaya and Nindiri* form a twin volcano, with two summits and two distinct craters, both of which have furnished lava streams. The lava stream of 1775 from the Nindiri reached the Lake of Managua. The equal height of these two volcanoes, situated so close to each other, is stated at only 2450 feet. Volcan de Momotombo* (7034 feet), burning, and often giving forth a thundering noise, but without smoking, in lat. 12° 28', at the north- ern extremity of the Lagnna de Managua, opposite to the small island Momotombito, so rich in sculptures (see the representation of Momo- tombo in Squier, vol. i., p. 233 and 302-312). The Laguna de Ma- nagua lies 28 feet higher than the Laguna de Nicaragua, which is more than double its size, and has no insular volcano. From hence to the Bay of Fonseca or Conchagua, at a distance of 23 miles from the coast of the Pacific, a line of six volcanoes runs from S.E. to N. W. ; closely approximated to each other, and bearing the common name of Los Maribios (Squier, vol. i., p. 419 ; vol. ii., p. 123). El Nuevo,* erroneously called Volcan de las Pilas, because the erup- tion of the 12th April, 1850, took place at the foot of this mountain ; a great eruption of lava almost in the plain itself! (Squier, vol. ii., p. 105-110.) Volcan de Telica,* visited, during its activity, by Oviedo as early as the 16th century (about 1529), to the east of Chinendaga, near Leon de Nicaragua, and consequently a little out of the direction previous- ly stated. This important volcano, which emits much sulphurous va- por from a crater 320 feet in depth, was ascended, a few years since, by my scientific and talented friend Professor Julius Frobel. He found the lava composed of glassy feldspar and augite (Squier, vol. ii., p. 115-117). At the summit, at an elevation of 3517 feet, there is a crater in which the vapors deposit great masses of sulphur. At the foot of the volcano is a mud-spring (Salse ?). The volcano El Viejo,* the northernmost of the crowded line of six volcanoes. It was ascended and measured in the year 1838 by Cap- tain Sir Edward Belcher. The result of the measurement was 5559 feet, a more recent measurement, by Squier, gave 6002 feet. This volcano, which was very active in Dampier's time, is still burning. The fiery eruptions of scoriee are frequently seen in the city of Leon. The volcano Guanacawe, somewhat to the north, without the range from El Nuevo to the Viejo, at a distance of only 14 miles from the shore of the Bay of Fonseca. The volcano Conseguina,* upon the cape which projects at the south- ern extremity of the Bay of Fonseca (lat. 12° 50'), celebrated for the fearful eruption, preceded by earthquakes, of the 23d January, 1 835. The great darkness during the fall of ashes, similar to that which has sometimes been caused by the volcano Pichincha, lasted for 43 hours. At a distance of a few feet, fire-brands could not be perceived. Res- piration was obstructed, and a subterranean noise, like the discharge of heavy artillery, was heard not only in Balize, on the peninsula of TRUE VOLCANOES. 2() 1 sins, which were probably only lateral eruptions on the de- clivity of one and the same mountain. Among the isolated Yucatan, but also upon the coast of Jamaica, and upon the plateau of Bogota, in the latter case at an elevation of more than 8500 feet above the sea, and at a distance of nearly five hundred and sixty geograph- ical miles (Juan Galindo, in Silliman's American Journal, vol. xxviii., 1835, p. 332-336 ; Acosta, Viajes d tos Andes, L849, p. 56; and Squier, vol. ii., p. 110-113; figures, p. L63 and 165). Darwin (Journal of Re- searches during the Voyage of the Beagle, 1845, p. 291) calls attention to a remarkable coincidence of phenomena: After a long slumber, Conseguina, in Central America, and Aconcagua and Corcovado (S. lat. 32|° and 43£°), in Chili, broke out on the same day (accidentally?). Volcano of Conchagua, or of Amalapa, at the north of the entrance to the Bay of Fonseca, opposite to the volcano Conseguina, near the beautiful Puerto de la Union, the harbor of the neighboring town of San Miguel. From the state of Costa Rica to the volcano of Conchagua, there- fore, the close series of twenty volcanoes follows a direction from S.E. to N.W. ; but on entering, near Conchagua, into the state of San Sal- vador, which, in the short distance of 160 geographical miles, exhibits five still more or less active volcanoes, the line, like the Pacific coast itself, turns more E.S.E. — W.N.W., and indeed almost E. — W., while on the eastern, Caribbean coast (toward the Cape Gracias a Dios) the land suddenly bulges out in Honduras and los Mosquitos (see above, p. 256). It is only, as there remarked, to the north of the high volca- noes of Old Guatemala, toward the Laguna de Atitlan, that the former general direction N. 45° W. again occurs, until at last, in Chiapa, and on the isthmus of Tehuantepec, the abnormal direction E. — W. is again manifested, but in non-volcanic chains. Besides Conchagua, the fol- lowing four volcanoes belong to the state of^San Salvador : The volcano of San Miguel Bosotlan* (lat. 13° 35'), near the town of the same name, the most beautiful and regular of trachytic cones next to the insular volcano Ometepec, in the lake of Nicaragua (Squier, vol. ii., p. 196). The volcanic forces are very active in Bosotlan, in which a great eruption of lava occurred on the 20th of July, 1844. Volcano of San Vicente,* to the west of the Rio de Lempa, between the towns of Sacatecoluca and Sacatelepe. A great eruption of ashes took place, according to Juarros, in 1643 ; and in January, 1835, a long-continued eruption occurred with destructive earthquakes. Volcano of San Salvador (lat. 13° 47'), near the city of the same name. The last eruption was that of 1656. The whole surrounding country is exposed to violent earthquakes ; that of the 16th of April, 1854, which was preceded by no noises, overthrew nearly all the build- ings in San Salvador. Volcano of Izalco,* near the village of the same name, often pro- ducing ammonia. The first eruption recorded in history occurred on the 23d February, 1770; the last widely-luminous eruptions were in April, 1798, 1805 to 1807, and 1825 (see above, p. 248, and Thompson, Official Visit to Guatemala, 1829, p. 512). Volcan dePacaya* (lat. 14° 23'), about 14 miles to the southeast of the city of New Guatemala, on the small Alpine lake Amatitlan, a 262 cosmos. conical and bell-shaped mountains, which are there called volcanoes, many may, indeed, consist of trachyte and dol- very active and often flaming volcano ; an extended ridge with three domes. The great eruptions of 15G5, 1651, 1671, 1677, and 1775 are known ; the last, which produced much lava, is described by Juarros as an eye-witness. Next follow the two volcanoes of Old Guatemala, with the singular appellations De Agua and De Fuego, near the coast, in latitude 14° 12'. Volcan de Agua, a trachytic cone near Escuintla, higher than the Peak of Teneriffe, surrounded by masses of obsidian (indications of old eruptions ?). The volcano, which reaches into the region of per- petual snow, has received its name from the circumstance that, in September, 1541, a great inundation (caused by earthquake and the melting of snow ?) was ascribed to it ; this destroyed the first-estab- lished city of Guatemala, and led to the building of the second city, situated to the north-northwest, and now called Antigua Guatemala. Volcan de Fuego* near Acatenango, 23 miles in a west-northwest direction from the so-called water- volcano. With regard to their rela- tive position, see the rare map of the Alcalde Mayor, Don Jose Rossi, y Rubi, engraved in Guatemala, and sent to me thence as a present : Bosquejo del espacio que media entre los estremos de la Provincia de Suchitepeques y la Capital de Guatemala, 1800. The Volcan de Fuego is still active, but now much less so than formerly. The older great eruptions were those of 1581, 1586, 1623, 1705, 1710, 1717, 1732, 1737, and 1799, but it was not only these eruptions, but also the destructive earthquakes which accompanied them, that moved the Spanish gov- ernment, in the second half of the last century, to quit the second seat of the city (where the ruins of la Antigua Guatemala now stand), and compel the inhabitants to settle farther to the north, in the new city of Santiago de Guatemala. In this case, as at the removal of Rio- bamba, and several other towns near the volcanoes of the chain of the Andes, a dogmatic and vehement dispute was carried on in reference to the difficult selection of a locality "of which it might be asserted, according to previous experience, that it was but little exposed to the action of neighboring volcanoes (lava streams, eruptions of scoria?, and earthquakes !)„" In 1852, during a great eruption, the Volcan de Fu- ego poured forth a lava stream toward the shore of the Pacific. Cap- tain Basil Hall measured, under sail, both the volcanoes of Old Gua- temala, and found for the Volcan de Fuego 14,665 feet, and for the Volcan de Agua 14,903 feet. The foundation of this measurement has been tested by Poggendorff. He found the mean elevation of the two mountains to be less, and reduced it to about 13,109 feet. Volcan de Quesaltenango* (lat. 15° 10'), burning since 1821, and smoking, near the town of the same name ; the three conical mount- ains which bound the Alpine lake Atitlan (in the mountain chain of Solola) on the south, are also said to be ignited. The volcano of Ta- jamulco, referred to by Juarros, certainly can not be identical with the volcano of Quesaltenango, as the latter is at a distance of 40 geograph- ical miles to the N.W. of the village of Tajamulco, to the south of Tejutla. What are the two volcanoes of Sacatepeques and Sapotithn, men- tioned by Fuuel, or Brue's Volcan de Amilpas? TRUE VOLCANOES. 263 crite, but, having always been unopened, have never exhib- ited any igneous activity since the time of their upheaval. Eighteen are to be regarded as still active ; seven of these have thrown up flames, scoriae, and lava streams in the pres- ent century (1825, 1835, 1848, and 1850); and two* at the end of the last century (1775 and 1799). The deficiency of lava streams in the mighty volcanoes of the Cordilleras of Quito has recently given occasion to the repeated assertion that this deficiency is equally general in the volcanoes of Central America. Certainly, in the majority of cases, erup- tions of scoria? and ashes have been unaccompanied by any effusion of lava — as, for example, at present in the volcano of Izalco ; but the descriptions which have been given by eye-witnesses of the lava-producing eruptions of the four vol- canoes Nindiri, El Nuevo, Conseguina, and San Miguel de Bosotlan give an opposite testimony.! I have purposely dwelt at length upon the details of the position and close approximation of the linear volcanoes of Central America, in the hope that some day a geognosist, who has previously given a profound study to the active vol- canoes of Europe and the extinct ones of Auvergne, the Vivarais or the Eifel, and who also (this is of the greatest importance) knows how to describe the mineralogical com- The great volcano of Soconnsco, situated on the borders of Chiapa, 28 geographical miles to the south of Cuidad Keal, in lat. 16° 2'. At the close of this long note I think I must again mention that the barometric determinations of altitude here adduced are partly derived from Espinache, and partly borrowed from the writings and maps of Baily, Squier, and Molina. * The following 18 volcanoes, constituting, therefore, nearly the half of all those referred to by me as active in former or present times, are to be regarded as at present more or less active : Irasu and Turrialva, near Cartago, El Rincon de la Vieja, Votos(?) and Orosi ; the insular volcano Ometepec, Nindiri, Momotomba, El Nuevo, at the foot of the trachytic mountain Las Pilas, Telica, El Viejo, Conseguina, San Mi- guel Bosotlan, San Vicente, Izalco, Pacaya, Volcan de Fuego (de Gua- temala), and Quesaltenango. The most recent eruptions are those of El Nuevo, near Las Pilas, on the 18th April, 1850; San Miguel Bosotlan, 18-18 ; Conseguina and San Vicente, 1835 ; Izalco, 1825 ; Volcan de Fuego, near New Guatemala, 1799 and 1852 ; and Pacaya, 1775. t Compare Squier, Nicaragua, vol. ii., p. 103, with p. 106 and 111, as also his previous small work On the Volcanoes of Central America, 1850, p. 7; Leopold de Buch, lies Canaries, p. 506, where reference is made to the lava stream which broke out of the volcano Nindiri in 1775, and which has been recently again seen by a veiy scientific ob- server, Dr. Oersted. 264 cosmos. position of the different rocks in accordance with the present state of our knowledge, may feel himself impelled to visit this region, which is so near and so accessible. Even if the trav- eler should devote himself exclusively to geognostic investi- gations, there still remains much to be done here — especially the oryctognostic determination of the trachytic, doleritic, and melaphyric rocks ; the separation of the primitive mass upheaved, and of the portion of the elevated mass which has been covered over by subsequent eruptions ; the seeking out and recognition of true, slender, uninterrupted lava streams, which are only too frequently confounded with accumulations of erupted scoriae. Conical mountains, which have never been opened, rising in a dome or bell-like form, such as Chim- borazo, are, therefore, to be clearly separated from volcanoes which have been or still are, active, throwing out scorias and lava streams, like Vesuvius and -ZEtna, or scoriae and ashes alone, like Pichincha or Cotopaxi. I know nothing that promises to impart a more brilliant impetus to our knowl- edge of volcanic activity, which is still very deficient in multi- plicity of observations in large and connected continental dis- tricts. As the material results of such a labor, collections of rocks would be brought home from many isolated true vol- canoes and unopened trachytic cones, together with the non- volcanic masses which have been broken through by both; the subsequent chemical analyses, and the chemico-geological inferences deduced from the analyses, would open a field equally wide and fertile. Central America and Java have the unmistakable superiority over Mexico, Quito, and Chili, that in a greater space they exhibit the most variously-formed and most closely-approximated stages of volcanic activity. At the point where the characteristic series of the volca- noes of Central America terminates on the borders of Chiapa with the volcano of Soconusco (lat. 16° 2/), there commences a perfectly different system of volcanoes — the Mexican. The isthmus of Huasacualco and Tehuantepec, so important for the trade with the coast of the Pacific, like the state of Oaxa- ca, situated to the northwest, is entirely without volcanoes, and perhaps even destitute of unopened trachytic cones. It is only at a distance of 160 geographical miles from the vol- cano of Soconusco that the small volcano of Tuxtla rises, near the coast of Alvarado (lat. 18° 28'). Situated on the eastern slope of the Sierra de San Martin, it had a great eruption of flames and ashes on the 2d of March, 1793. An exact astro- nomical determination of the position of the colossal snowy TRUE VOLCANOES. 265 mountains and volcanoes in the interior of Mexico (the old Anahuac) led mo, after my return to Europe, while inserting the maxima of elevations in my chart of New Spain, to the exceedingly remarkable result that there is in this place, from sea to sea, a parallel of the volcanoes and greatest elevations which oscillates by only a few minutes to and from the paral- lel of 19°. The only volcanoes, and, at the same time, the only mountains, covered with perpetual snow in the country, and consequently elevations varying from 12,000 to 3000 feet — the volcanoes of Orizaba, Popocatepetl, Toluca, and Colima— lie between the latitudes of 18° 59' and 19° 20', and thus indicate the direction of a fissure of volcanic activity of 360 geographical miles in length.* In the same direction (lat. 19° 97), between the volcanoes of Toluca and Colima, at a distance of 116 and 128 geographical miles from them, the new volcano of Jorullo (4265 feet) rose on the 14th Septem- ber, 1759, in a broad plain, having an elevation of 2583 feet. The local position of this phenomenon in relation to the sit- uation of the other Mexican volcanoes, and the circumstance that the fissure from east to west, which I here indicate, in- tersects the direction of the great mountain chain striking from * See all the bases of these Mexican local determinations, and their comparison with the observations of Don Joaquin Ferrer, in my Recueil d' Observations Astron., vol. ii., p. 521, 529, and 536-550; and Essai Politique sur la Nouvelle Espagne, t. i., p. 55-59, and 176, t. ii., p. 173. I had myself early raised doubts with regard to the astronomical de- termination of the position of the volcano of Colima, near the coast of the Pacific {Essai JPoHt., t. i., p. 68; t. ii., p. 180). According to angles of altitude taken by Captain Basil Hall while under sail, the volcano is situated in lat. 19° 36', and consequently half a degree far- ther north than I concluded to be its position from itineraries; cer- tainly without absolute determinations for Selagua and Petatlan, upon which I depended. The latitude, 19° 25', which I have given in the text, is, like the determination of altitude (12,005 feet), from Captain Beechey (Voyage, pt. ii., p. 587). The most recent map by Laurie {The Mexican and Central States of America, 1853) gives 19° 20' for the latitude. The latitude of Jorullo may also be wrong by 2 — 3 minutes, as I was then occupied entirely witli geological and topo- graphical investigations, and neither the sun nor stars were visible for determinations of latitude. (See Basil Hall, Journal written on the Coast of Chili, Peru, and Mexico, 182-4, vol. ii., p. 379 ; Beechey, Voy- age, pt. ii., p. 587; and Humboldt, Essai Polk., t. i., p. 68; t. ii., p. 180). In the true and exceedingly artistic views of the volcano of Colima, drawn by Moritz Rugcndas, which are preserved in the Ber- lin Museum, we distinguish two adjacent mountains — the true volcano, which constantly emits smoke, and is covered with but little snow, and the more elevated Nevada, which rises far into the region of perpetual snow. Vol. V.—M 266 COSMOS. south-southeast to north-northwest almost at right angles, are geological phenomena no less important than the distance of the eruption of Jorullo from the seas, the evidence of its up- heaval which I have represented graphically in detail, the innumerable fuming hornitos which surround the volcano, and the fragments of granite, which I found immersed in the lava poured forth from the principal volcano of Jorullo, in a district which is destitute of granite for a long distance. The following table contains the special local determina- tions and elevations of the series of volcanoes of Anahuac, upon a fissure which, running from sea to sea, intersects the fissure of elevation of the great range of mountains : Sequence from East to West. Latitude. Elevation above the Sea, in Feet. Volcano of Orizaba 19° 2' 17" 19 10 3 18 59 47 19 11 33 19 9 0 19 20 0 17,879 15,705 17,726 15,168 4,265 12,005 Nevado Iztaccihuatl Volcano Popocatepetl Volcano of Toluca Volcano of Jorullo Volcano of Colinia The prolongation of the parallel of volcanic activity in the tropical zone of Mexico leads, at a distance of 506 miles west- ward, from the shores of the Pacific to the insular group Re- villagigedo, in the vicinity of which Collnet saw pumice-stone floating, and perhaps still farther on, at a distance of 3360 ge- ographical miles, to the great volcano Mauna Roa (19° 28'), without causing any upheaval of islands in the intervening space ! The group of linear volcanoes of Quito and New Granada includes a volcanic zone which extends from 2° S. lat. to nearly 5° N. lat. The extreme boundaries of the area in which the reaction of the interior of the earth upon its surface is now manifested are the uninterruptedly active Sangay, and the Paramo and Volcan de Ruiz, the most recent confiaora- tion of which was in the year 1829, and which was seen smok- ing by Carl Degenhardt from the Mina de Santana, in the province of Mariquita, in 1831, and from Marmato in 1833. The most remarkable traces of great eruptive phenomena next to the Ruiz are exhibited from north to south, by the trun- cated cone of the volcano of Toli ma (18,129 feet), celebrated by the recollection of the destructive eruption of the 12th March, 1595 ; the volcanoes of Purace (17,006 feet) and So- tara, near Popayan ; that of Pasto (13,450 feet), near the city of the same name; of the Monte de Azufre (12,821 feet), TRUE VOLCANOES. 2(J7 near Tuqucrrcs ; of Cumbal (15,018 feet) and of Chiles, in the province de los Pastes; then follow the historieally cel- ebrated volcanoes of the true highland of Quito, to the south of the equator, of which four — namely, Pichincha, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, and Sangay — certainly can not be regarded as extinct volcanoes. Although, to the north of the mountain group of the Kobles, near Popayan, as we shall shortly more fully show in the tripartition of the vast chain of the Andes, it is only the central Cordillera, and not the western one, nearer to the sea-coast, that exhibits a volcanic activity ; on the other hand, to the south of this group, where the Andes form only two parallel chains, so frequently mentioned by Bouguer and La Condamine in their writings, volcanoes are so equally distributed, that the four volcanoes of the Pastos, as well as Cotocachi, Pichincha, Iliniza, Carguairazo, and Yana-Urcu, at the foot of Chimborazo, have broken out upon the western chain, nearest to the sea ; and upon the eastern Cordillera, Imbabura, Cayambe, Antisana, Cotopaxi, Tung- urahua (opposite to Chimborazo toward the east, but still nearly approximated to the middle of the narrow elevated plateau), the Altar de los Collanes (Capac-Urcu), and San- gay. If we include the northernmost group of the linear volcanoes of South America in one view, the opinion so often expressed in Quito, and to a certain extent founded on his- torical documents, of the migration of the volcanic activity and increase of intensity from north to south, acquires, at all events, a certain amount of probability. It is true that in the south, and indeed close to the colossal Sangay, which acts like Stromboli, we find the ruins of the " Prince of Mountains," Capac-Urcu, which is said to have exceeded Chimborazo in height, but which fell in and became extinct in the latter part of the loth century (fourteen years before the capture of Quito by the son of the Inca Tupac Yupangui), and has never again resumed its former activity. The space of the chain of the Andes which is not occupied by groups of volcanoes is far greater than is usually supposed. In the northern part of South America, from the Volcan de Ruiz and the conical mountain Tolima, the two most northern volcanoes of the series of New Granada and Quito, over the isthmus of Panama as far as the vicinity of Costa Pica, where the series of volcanoes of Central America commences, there is a country which is frequently and violently convulsed by earthquakes, and in which flaming salses, but no true volcan- ic eruptions, are known. The length of this tract amounts 268 cosmos. to 628 geographical miles. Nearly double this length (occu- pying a space of 968 geographical miles) is a tract of country free from volcanoes, from the Sangay, the southern termina- tion of the group of New Granada and Quito, to the Chacani, near Arequipa, the commencement of the series of volcanoes of Peru and Bolivia — so complicated and various in the same mountain chain must have been the coincidence of the conditions upon which depends the formation of permanently open fissures, and the unimpeded communication of the molt- en interior of the earth with the atmosphere. Between the groups of trachytic and doleritic rocks, through which the volcanic forces become active, lie rather shorter spaces, in which prevail granite, syenite, mica-schists, clay-slates, quartz- ose porphyries, silicious conglomerates, and limestones, of which (according to Leopold von Buch's investigation of the organic remains brought home by Degenhardt and myself) a considerable portion belong to the chalk formation. The gradually increased frequency of labradoritic rocks, rich in pyroxene and oligoclase, announces to the observant traveler (as I have already elsewhere shown) the transition of a zone hitherto closed and non-volcanic, and often very rich in sil- ver in porphyries, destitute of quartz and full of glassy feld- spar, into the volcanic regions, which still freely communi- cate with the interior of the earth. The more accurate knowledge which we have recently at- tained of the position and boundaries of the five groups of volcanoes (the groups of Anahuac or tropical Mexico, of Central America, of New Granada and Quito, of Peru and Bolivia, and of Chili) shows that, in the part of the Cordil- leras which extends from 19j° north to 46° south latitude (and, consequently, taking into account the curves caused by alterations in the axial direction, for a distance of nearly 5000 geographical miles), not much* more than half (calcu- * The following is the result of the determination of the length and latitude of the five groups of linear volcanoes in the chain of the Andes, as also the statement of the distance of the groups from each other : a statement illustrating the relative proportions of the volcanic and non- volcanic areas : I. Group of the Mexican Volcanoes: The fissure upon which the vol- canoes have broken out is directed from east to west, from the Orizaba to the Colima, for a distance of 392 geographical miles, between latitudes 19° and 19° 20'. The volcano of Tuxtla lies isolated 128 miles to the east of Orizaba, near the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, and in a parallel (18° 28') which is half a degree farther south. TRUE VOLCANOES. 269 lation gives 2510 against 2428 geographical miles) is occu- pied by volcanoes. If we examine the distribution of the space free from volcanoes between the live volcanic groups, we find the maximum distance of two groups from one an- il. Distance of the Mexican group from the next group, that of Cen- tral America (from the volcano of Orizaba to the volcano of So- connsco, in the direction E.S.E. — W.N.W.), 300 miles. III. Group of the Volcanoes of Central America : Its length from S.E. to N.W., from the volcano of Soconusco to Turrialva, in Costa Rica, more than 680 miles. IV. Distance of the group of Central America from the series of volcanoes of New Granada and Quito, G28 miles. V. Group of the Volcanoes of New Granada and Quito: Its length from the eruption in the Paramo de Ruiz to the north of the Volcan de Tolima, to the volcano of Sangay, 472 miles. The portion of the chain of the Andes between the volcano of Purace, near Popayan, and the southern part, of the volcanic mountain group of Pasto is directed N.N.E. — S.S. W. Far to the eastward from the volcanoes of Popayan, at the sources of the Rio Fragua, there is a very iso- lated volcano, which I have inserted upon my general map of the mountain group of the South American Cordilleras, from the statements of missionaries from Timana, which were communi- cated to me : distance from the sea-shore, 152 miles. VI. Distance of the volcanic group of New Granada and Quito from the group of Peru and Bolivia, 9G0 miles, the greatest length des- titute of volcanoes. VII. Group of the Series of Volcanoes of Peru and Bolivia, from the Volcan de Chacani and Arequipa to the volcano of Atacama (16£° — 2H°), 420 miles. VIII. Distance of the Group of Peru and Bolivia from the volcanic group of Chili, 540 geographical miles. From the portion of the desert of Atacama, on the border of which the volcano of San Pedro rises, to far beyond Copiapo, even to the volcano of Co- quimho (30° 5'), in the long Cordillera to the west of the two prov- inces Catamarca and Rioja, there is no volcanic cone. IX. Group of Chili, from the volcano of Coquimho to the volcano San Clemente, 968 miles. These estimates of the length of the Cordilleras, with the curvature which results from the change in the direction of the axis, from the parallel of the Mexican volcanoes in 19^° N. lat., to the volcano of San Clemente in Chili (46° 8' S. lat.), give, for a distance of 4968 miles, a space of 2540 miles which is covered by five linear groups of volcanoes (Mexico, Central America, New Granada with Quito, Peru with Bolivia, and Chili); and a space probably quite free from volca- noes of 2428 miles. The two spaces are nearly equal. I have given very definite numerical relations, as obtained by the careful criticism of my own maps and those of others, in order to give rise to a greater desire to improve them. The longest portion of the Cordilleras free from volcanoes is that between the groups of New Granada with Quito, and Peru with- Bolivia. It is accidentally equal to that occupied by the volcanoes of Chili. 270 COSMOS. other between the volcanic series of Quito and Peru. This is fully 960 miles, while the most closely approximated groups are fhe first and second, those of Mexico and Central Amer- ica. The four interspaces between the five groups are sever- ally 300, 628, 960, and 540 miles. The great distance of the southernmost volcano of Quito from the most northern of Peru is, at the first glance, the more remarkable, because, according to old custom, we usually term the measurement of degrees upon the highland of Quito the Peruvian measure- ment. Only a small southern portion of the Peruvian chain of the Andes is volcanic. The number of volcanoes, accord- ing to the lists which I have prepared after a careful criti- cism of the newest materials, is as follows : Names of the five Groups of Linear Vol- canoes of the New Continent, from 19° 25' North, to 48° 8' South Latitude. Number of Vol- canoes included in each Group. Number of Vol- canoes which an to be regarded as still ignited. Group of Mexico* 6 29 18 14 24 4 18 10 3 13 Group of Central Aruericaf Group of New Granada and Quito J.... Group of Peru and P>olivia§ Group of ChililJ * The group of volcanoes of Mexico includes the volcanoes of Ori- zaba,* Popocatepetl,* Toluca (or Cerro de San Miguel de Tutucuitla- pilco), Joruilo,* Colima,* and Tuxtla.* Here, as in similar lists, the still active volcanoes are indicated by asterisks. f The series of volcanoes of Central America is enumerated in the notes on pages 257 and 2 % The group of New Granada and Quito includes the Paramo y Volcan de Ruiz.* the volcanoes of Tolima, Purace,* and Sotara, near Popayau ; the Volcan del Rio Fragua, an affluent of the Caqueta ; the volcanoes of Pasto, El Azufral,* Cumbal,* Tuquerres,* Chiles, Imba- buru, Cotocachi, Rucu-Pichincha, Antisana(P), Cotopaxi,* Tungura- hua,* Capac-Urcu, or Altar de los Collanes(?), and Sangay.* § The group of Southern Peru and Bolivia includes from north to south the following 11 volcanoes : Volcano of Chacani (also called Charcani, according to Curzon and Meyen), belonging to the group of Arequipa, and visible from the town ; it is situated on the right bank of the Rio Quilca, in lat. 16° 11', according to Pentland, the most accurate geological ob- server of this region, 32 miles to the south of the Nevado de Chu- quibamba, which is estimated at more than 19,000 feet in height. Manuscript records in my possession give the volcano of Chacani a height of fully 19,601 feet. Curzon saw a large crater in the southeastern part of the summit. Volcano of Arecpnjxt* lat. 16° 20', 12 miles to the northeast of the town. With regard to its height (18,879 feet?), seep. 210. Thad- daus Hanke, the botanist of the expedition of Malaspina (1796), Samuel Curzon from the United States of North America (1811), TRUE VOLCANOES. 271 According to these data the total number of volcanoes in the live American groups is 91, of which 5G belong to the and Dr. Weddel (1847), have ascended the summit. In August, 1831, Meyen saw large columns of smoke rising ; a year previous- ly the volcano had thrown out scoria?, but never lava streams (Meyen's licise um die Krde, th. ii., s. 33). Yolcan de Omato, lat. 16° 50'; it had a violent eruption in the year 1GG7. Volcan de Uvillas or Uvinas, to the south of Apo ; its last eruptions were in the lGth century. Volcan de Pichu-Pichu, 1G miles to the east of the town of Arequipa (lat. 16° 25'), not far from the Pass of Cangallo, 9673 feet above the sea. Volcan Viejo, lat. 16° 55', an enormous crater, with lava streams and much pumice-stone. The six volcanoes just mentioned constitute the group of Arequipa. Volcan de Tacora or Chipicani, according to Pentland's fine map of the lake of Titicaca, lat. 17° 45', height 19,738 feet. Volcan de Sahqma,* 22,354 feet in height, lat. 18° 7'; a truncated cone of the most regular form; see p. 241. The volcano of Sa- hama is (according to Pentland) 927 feet higher than the Chim- borazo, but GG50 feet lower than Mount Everest, in the Himalaya, which is now regarded as the highest peak of Asia. According to the last official report of Colonel Waugh, of the 1 st March, 1 856, the four highest mountains of the Himalayan chain are ; Mount Everest (Gaurischanka), to the northeast of Katmandu, 29,000 feet; the Kuntschinjinga, to the north of Darjiling, 28,154 feet; the Dhaulaqiri (Dhavalagirir), 2G,825 feet; and Tschumalari (Cham- alari), 23,946 feet. Volcano of Pomarape, 21,609 feet, lat. 18° 8', almost a twin mount- ain with the following volcano. Volcano of Parinacota, 22,029 feet, lat. 18° 12'. The group of the four trachytic cones Sahama, Pomarape, Parina- cota, and Gualatieri, lying between the parallels of 18° 7' and 18° 25', is, according to Pentland's trigonometric measurement, higher than Chimborazo, or more than 21,422 feet. Volcano of Gwlatieri* 21,962 feet, lat. 18° 25', in the Bolivian province Carangas ; very active, according to Pentland (Ilertha, bd. xiii., 1829, s. 21). Not far from the Sahama grovp, 18° 7' to 18° 25', the series of vol- canoes and the entire chain of the Andes, which lies to the westward of it, suddenly change their strike, and pass from the direction S.E. — TST.W. into that from north to south, which becomes general as far as the Straits of Magellan. I have treated of this important turning- point, the notch in the shore near Arica (18° 28'), which has an an- alogue on the west coast of Africa, in the Gulf of Biafra, in the first volume of Cosmos, p. 292. Volcano of Isl/.ga, lat. 19° 20', in the province of Tarapaca, to the west of Carangas. 212 COSMOS. continent of South America. I reckon as volcanoes, besides those which are still burning and active, those volcanic form- Volcan de San Pedro de Atacama, on the northeastern border of the Desierto of the same name, in lat. 22° 16', according to the new plan of the arid sandy desert (Desierto) of Atacama, by Dr. Phi- lippi, 16 miles to the northeast of the small town of San Pedro, not far from the great Nevado de Chorolque. There is no volcano from 20|° to 30°, and, after an interruption of more than 568 miles, the volcanic activity first reappears in the vol- cano of Coquimbo ; for the existence of a volcano of Copiapo (lat. 27° 28') is denied by Meyen, while it is asserted by Philippi, who is well acquainted with the country. II Our geographical and geological knowledge of the group of vol- canoes which we include in the common name of the linear volca- noes of Chili, is indebted for the first incitement to its completion, and even for the completion itself, to the acute investigations of Cap- tain Fitzroy in the memorable expedition of the ships Adventure and Beagle, and to the ingenious and more detailed labors of Charles Darwin. The latter, with his peculiar generalizing view, has grasped the connection of the phenomena of earthquakes and eruptions of volcanoes under one point of new. The great natural phenomenon which destroyed the town of Copiapo on the 22d of November, 1822, was accompanied by the upheaval of a considerable L-act of country on the coast-; and during the exactly-similar phenomenon of the 20th February, 1835, which did so much injury to the city of Concepcion, a submarine volcano broke out, with fiery eruptions, near the shore of the island of Chiloe, near Bacalao Head, and raged for a day and a half. All this, depending upon similar conditions, has also occurred formerly, and strengthens the belief that the series of rocky islands which lies opposite to the Fjords of the main land, to the south of Valdivia, and of the Fuerte Maullin, and includes Chiloe, the Arch- ipelago of Chonos and Huaytecas, the Peninsula de tres Montes, and the Islas de la Campana, De la Madre de Dios, De Santa Lucia and Los Lobos, from 39° 53' to the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, is the crest of a submerged western Cordillera projecting above the sea. It is true that no open trachytic cone, no volcano, belongs to these fractis ex cequore terris ; but individual submarine eruptions, some- times followed and sometimes preceded by mighty earthquakes, ap- pear to indicate the existence of this western fissure (Darwin, On the Connection of Volcanic Phenomena, the Formation of Mountain Chains, and the Effect of the same Powers, by which Continents are elevated: in the Trans. Geol. Society, 2d series, vol. v., pt. 3, 1840, p. 600-615, and 629-631 ; Humboldt, Essai Politique sur la Xouvelle Espagne, t. i., p. 190, and t. ii., p. 287). The series of twenty-four volcanoes included in the group of Chili is as follows, counting from north to south, from the parallel of Co- quimbo to 46° S. lat. : («.) Between the parallels of Coquimbo and Valparaiso : Volcan de Coquimbo (lat. 30° 5'). Meyen, th. i., s. 385. Volcano of Limari. Volcano of Chuapri. TRUE VOLCANOES. 273 ations whose old eruptions belong to historic periods, or of which the structure and eruptive masses (craters of elevation Volcano of Aconcagua,* W.N.W. of Mendoza, hit. 32 39'; alti- tude 23,004 feet, according to Kellct (see p. 241, note); but, ac- cording to the most recent trigonometric measnrement of the engineer Amado Pissis (1854), only 21,301 feet; consequently, rather lower than the Sahama, which Pentland now assumes to be 22,350 feet (Gilliss, United States Naval Astron. Exped. to Chili, vol. i., p. 13). The geodetic basis of measurement of Aconca- gua at 6797 metres, which required eight triangles, has been de- veloped by M. Pissis, in the Anales de la Universklad de Cliile, 1852, p. 219. The peak of Tupungato is stated by Gilliss to be 22,450 English, or 21,0G3 Paris, feet in height, and in lat. 33° 22' ; but in the map of the province of Santiago, by Pissis (Gilliss, p. 45), it is esti- mated at 22,01G English, or 20,655 Paris, feet. The latter num- ber is retained (as 0710 metres) bv Pissis in the Anales de Chile. 1850, p. 12. (b.) Between the parallels of Valparaiso and Concepcion : Volcano of Maypu,* according to Gilliss (vol. i., p. 13), in lat. 34° 17' (but in his general map of Chili, 33° 47', certainly errone- ously), and 17,662 feet in height. Ascended by Meyen. The trachytic rock of the summit has broken through upper Jurassic strata, in which Leopold von Buch detected Exogyra Couloni, Trigonia costata, and Ammonites biplex, from elevations of 9600 feet (Description Physique des lies Canaries, 1836, p. 471). No lava streams, but eruptions of flame and scoriae from the crater. Volcano of Peteroa* to the east of Talca, in lat. 34° 53' ; a volca- no which is frequently in activity, and which, according to Moli- na's description, had a great eruption on the 3d December, 1762. It was visited in 1831 by the highly-gifted naturalist, Gay. Volcan de Chilian, lat 36° 2' ; a region which has been described by the missionary Havestadt, of Minister. In its vicinity is situated the Xevado Descabezado (35° 1), which was ascended by Do- meyko, and which Molina declared (erroneously) to be the high- est mountain of Chili. Its height has been estimated by Gilliss at 13,100 feet (United States Naval A sir. Exped., 1855, vol. i., p. 16 and 371). Volcano of Tucapel, to the west of the city of Concepcion ; also called Silla Veluda : perhaps an unopened trachytic mountain, which is in connection with the active volcano of Antuco. (c.) Between the parallels of Concepcion and Valdivia : Volcano of Antuco,* lat. 37° 7'; geognostically described in detail by Poppig ; a basaltic crater of elevation, from the interior of which a trachytic cone ascends, with lava streams, which break out at the foot of the cone, and more rarely from the crater at the summit (Poppig, Reise in Chile and Peru, bd. i., s. 364). One of these streams was still flowing in the year 1828. The inde- fatigable Domeyko found the volcano in full activity in 1845, and its height only 8920 feet (Pentland, in Mary Somerville's Phys- ical Ceography, vol. i., p. 186). Gilliss states the height at 9242 M 2 274 cosmos. and eruption, lavas, scoriae, pumice-stones, and obsidians) characterize them, without reference to any tradition, as volcanoes which have long been extinct. Unopened tra- chytic cones and domes, or unopened long trachytic ridges, such as Chimborazo and Iztaccihuatl, are excluded. This is also the sense given to the word volcano by Leopold von Buch, Charles Darwin, and Friedrich Naumaun, in their geographical narratives. I give the name of still active volcanoes to those which, when seen from their immediate vicinity, still exhibit signs of greater or less degrees of their activity, and some which have also presented great and well- attested eruptions in recent times. The qualification " seen from their immediate vicinity" is of great importance, as the present existence of activity is denied to many volcanoes, feet, and mentions new eruptions in the year 1853. According to intelligence communicated to me by the distinguished Ameri- can astronomer, Gilliss, a new volcano rose out of the depths in the interior of the Cordillera, between Antuco and the Descabe- zado, on the 25th of November, 1847, forming a hill* of 320 feet. The sulphureous and fiery eruptions were seen for more than a year by Domeyko. Far to the eastward of the volcano of An- tuco, in a parallel chain of the Andes, Poppig states that there are two other active volcanoes — Punhamuidda* andUnalavquen*. Volcano of Callaqui. Volcan de VUlarica* lat. 39° 14'. Volcano of Chiticd, lat. 39° 35'. Volcan de Pangmjmlli,* lat. 40f, according to Major Philippi. (d.) Between the parallels of Yaldivia and the southernmost Cape of the Island of Chiloe : Volcano of Ranco. Volcano of Osorno or Llanquihue, lat. 41° 9', height 7443 feet. Volcan de Calbuco* lat. 41° 12'. Volcano of Grianahuca (Guanegue?). Volcano of Minchinmadom, lat. 42° 48', height 7993 feet. Volcan del Corcovado* lat. 43° 12', height 7509 feet. Volcano of Yanteles (Yntales), lat. 43° 29', height 8030 feet. Upon the last four volcanoes, see Captain Fitzroy, Exped. of the Beagle, vol. iii., p. 275, and Gilliss, vol. i., p. 13. Volcano of San Clemente, opposite to the Peninsula de Tres Montes, which consists, according to Darwin, of granite, lat. 46° 8'. On the great map of South America, by La Cruz, a more southern volcano, De los Gigantes, is given, opposite the Archipelago de la Madre de Dios, in lat. 51° 4'. Its existence is very doubtful. The latitudes in the foregoing table of volcanoes are for the most part derived from the maps of Pissis, Allan Campbell, and Claude Gay, in the admirable work of Gilliss (1855). TRUE VOLCANOES. 275 because, when observed from the plain, the thin vapors, which ascend from the crater at a great height, remain invisible to the eye. Thus it was even denied, at the time of my Amer- ican travels, that Picbincha and the great volcano of Mexico (Popocatepetl) were still active, although an enterprising traveler. Sebastian Wissc,* counted 70 still burning orifices (fumaroles) around the great active cone of eruption in the crater of Pichincha ; and I was myself a witness,! at the foot of the volcano in the Malpais del Llano de Tetimpa, in which I had to measure a base-line, of an extremely distinct eruption of ashes from Popocatepetl. In the series of volcanoes of New Granada and Quito, which in 18 volcanoes includes 10 that are still active, and is about twice the length of the Pyrenees, we may indicate, from north to south, as four smaller groups or subdivisions: the Paramo de Ruiz and the neighboring volcano of Tolirna (latitude, according to Acosta, 4°55/N.); Purace and Sota- ra, near Popayan (lat. 2i°) ; the Volcanes de Pasto, Tuquerres and Cumbal (lat. 2° 20' to 0° 50') ; and the series of volca- noes from Pichincha, near Quito, to the unintermittently act- ive Sangay (from the equator to 2° S. lat.). This last sub- division of the active group is not particularly remarkable among the volcanoes of the New World, either by its great length or by the closeness of its arrangement. We now know, also, that it does not include the highest summit; for the Aconcagua in Chili (lat. 32° 390 of 23,003 feet, accord- ing to Kellet, 23,909 feet, according to Fitzroy and Pent- land, besides the Nevados of Sahama (22,349 feet), Parincota (22,080 feet), Gualateiri (21,962 feet), and Pomarape (21,699 feet), all from between 18° V and 18° 25' south latitude, are regarded as higher than Chimborazo (21,422 feet). Nev- ertheless, of all the volcanoes of the New Continent, the volcanoes of Quito enjoy the most widely-spread renown, for to these mountains of the chain of the Andes, to this high land of Quito, attaches the memory of those assiduous astro- nomical, geodetical, optical, and barometrical labors, directed to important ends, which are associated with the illustrious names of Bouguer and La Condamine. Wherever intellectu- al tendencies prevail, wherever a rich harvest of ideas has been excited, leading to the advancement of several sciences at the same time, fame remains, as it were, locally attached * Humboldt, Kleinere Schriften, bd. i., s. ^0. t 24th of January, 18(M. See my Essai Politique sur la Nouvelle Espagne. f. i., p. 16G. 276 cosmos. for a long time. Such fame has in like manner belonged to Mount Blanc, in tbe Swiss Alps — not on account of its height, which only exceeds that of Monte Rosa by about 557 feet; not on account of the danger overcome in its ascent — but on account of the value and multiplicity of the physical and geo- logical views which ennoble Saussure's name, and the scene of his untiring industry. Nature appears greatest where, be- sides its impression on the senses, it is also reflected in the depths of thought. The series of volcanoes of Peru and Bolivia, still entirely belonging to the equinoctial zone, and, according to Pentland, only covered with perpetual snow at an elevation of 16,945 feet (Darwin, Journal, 1845, p. 244), attains the maximum of its elevation (22,349 feet) at about the middle of its length in the Sahama group, between 18° 7/ and 18° 25' south lati- tude. There, in the neighborhood of Arica, appears a sin- gular, bay-like bend of the shore, which corresponds with a sudden alteration in the axial direction of the chain of the Andes, and of t lie series of volcanoes lying to the west of it. Thence, toward the south, the coast-line, and also the vol- canic fissure, no longer strike from southeast to northwest, but in the direction cf the meridian, a direction which is maintained until near the western entrance into the Straits of Magellan, for a distance of more than two thousand miles. A glance at the map of the ramifications and groups of mount- ains of the chain of the Andes, published by me in the year 1831, exhibits many other similar agreements between the outline of the New Continent and the near or distant Cor- dilleras. Thus, between the promontories of Aguja and San Lorenzo (5-^° to 1° S. lat.), both the coast-line of the Pacific and the Cordilleras are directed, from south to north, after being directed so long from southeast to northwest, between the parallels of Arica and Caxamarca ; and in the same way the coast-line and the Cordilleras run from southwest to northeast, from the mountain group of Imbaburu, near Quito, to that of Los Robles,* near Popayan. With regard to the geo- * The mieha-schist mountain group de Los Robles (lat. 2 ° 2') and of the Paramo de las Papas (lat. 2° 20') contains the Alpine lakes, La- gun a de S. lago and L. del Buey, scarcely six miles apart ; from the former springs the Cauca, and from the latter the Magdalena, which, being soon separated by a central mountain chain, only unite with each other in the parallel of 9° 27', in the plains of Mompox and Ten- erife. The above-mentioned mountain group, between Popayan, Al- maguer, and Timana, is of great importance in connection with the geological question whether the volcanic chain of the Ancles of Chili, TRUE VOLCANOES. 277 logical causal connection of the agreement, which is so often manifested between the outlines of continents and the direc- Pern, Bolivia, Quito, and New Granada be connected with the mount- ain chain of the Isthmus of Panama, and in this way with that of Veragua and the scries of volcanoes of Costa Rica and Central Amer- ica in general. In my maps of 1816, 1*1-7. and L831, ilie mountain systems of which have been made more generally known by Brae in Joaquin Acosta's fine map of New Granada (1847) and in other maps, Ihave shown howthe chain of the Andes undergoes a triple division under the northern parallel of 2° 10'; the western Cordillera running between the valley of the Kio Canca and the Rio Atrato ; the middle one between the Cauca and the Kio Magdalen a ; and the eastern one between the valley of the Magdalena and the Llanos (plains), which are watered by the affluents of the Maranon and Orinoco. I have been able to indicate the special direction of these three Cordilleras from a great number of points which fall in the series of astronomical local determinations, of which I obtained 152 in South America alone by culmination of stars. To the east of the Rio Dagua, and to the west of Cazeres, Rolda- nilla, Toro, and Anserma, near Cartago, the western Cordillera runs S.S.W. — N.N.E., as far as the Salto de San Antonio, in the Rio Cauca (lat. 5° 14'), which lies to the southwest of the Vega de Supia. Thence as far as the Alto del Viento (Cordillera de Abibe, or Avidi, lat. 7° 12'), 0600 feet in height, the chain increases considerably in elevation and bulk, and amalgamates, in the province of Antioquia, with the inter- mediate or Central Cordillera. Farther to the north, toward the sources of the Rios Lucio and Guacuba, the chain ceases, dividing into ranges of hills. The Cordillera occidental, which is scarcely 32 miles from the coast of the Pacific, near the mouth of the Dagua, in the Bahia de San Buenaventura (lat. 3° 50), is twice this distance in the parallel of Quibdo. in the Choco (lat. 5° 48'). This observation is of some importance, because we must not confound with the western chain of the Andes the country with high hills, and the range of hills, which in this province, so rich in gold dust, runs from south to north, from Novita and Tado, along the right bank of the Rio San Juan and the left bank of the great Rio Atrato. It is this inconsiderable series of hills that is intersected in the Quebrada de la Raspadura by the canal of Raspadura (Canal des Moriches), which unites two rivers (the Rio San Juan or Noanama and the Rio Quibdo, a tributary of the Atrato), and by their means two oceans (Humboldt, Essai Politique, t. i., p. 235) ; it was this, also, which was seen in the instructive expedition of Captain Kellet between the Bahia de Cupica (lat. 6° 42'), long and fruitlessly extolled by me, and the sources of the Napipi, which falls into the Atrato. (See Humboldt, Op. tit., t. i., p. 231 : and Rob- ert Fitzroy, Considerations on the Great Isthmus of Central America in the Journal of the Royal Geogr. Soc, vol. xx., 1851, p. 178, 180, and 18G.) The middle chain of the Andes {Cordillera Central), constantly the highest, reaching within the limit of perpetual snow, and, in its entire extent, directed nearly from south to north, like the western chain, commences about 35 miles to the northeast of Popayan with the Par- amos of Guanacos, Huila, Iraca, and Chinche. Farther on toward the north between Buga and Chaparral, rise the elongated ridge of the 278 cosmos. tion of near mountain chains (South America, Alleghanys, Norway, Apennines), it appears difficult to come to any de- cision. Neveda de Baraguan (lat. 4° 11'), La Montana de Quindio, the snow- capped, truncated cone of Tolima, the Volcano and Paramo de Ruiz, and the Mesa de Herveo. These high and rugged mountain deserts, to which the name of Paramos is applied in Spanish, are distinguished by their temperature and a peculiar character of vegetation, and rise in the part of the tropical region which I here describe, according to the mean of many of my measurements, from 10,000 to 11,700 feet above the level of the sea. In the parallel of Mariquita, of the Herveo and the Salto de San Antonio, in the valley of the Cauca, there com- mences a union of the western and central chains, of which mention has already been made. This amalgamation becomes most remarkable between the above-mentioned Salto and the Angostura and Cascada de Caramanta, near Supia. Here is situated the high land of the prov- ince of Antioquia, so difficult of access, which extends, according to Manuel Restrepo, from 5i° to 8° 34' ; in this we may mention, as points of elevation from south to north, Anna, Sonson, to the north of the sources of the Rio Samana, Marinilla, Rio Negro (6811: feet), and Medellin (4817 feet), the plateau of Santa Rosa (8466 feet), and Valle de Osos. Farther on, between Cazeres and Zaragoza, toward the con- fluence of the Cauca and Nechi, the true mountain chain disappears, and the eastern slope of the Cerros de San Lucar, which I saw from Badillas (lat. 8° 1') and Paturia (lat. 7° 36'), during my navigation and survey of the Magdalena, is only perceptible from its contrast with the broad d'iver plain. The eastern Cordillera possesses a geological interest, inasmuch as it not only separates the whole northern mountain system of New Gran- ada from the low land, from which the waters flow partly by the Ca- guan and Caqueta to the Amazons, and partly by the Guaviare, Meta, and Apure to the Orinoco, but also unites itself most distinctly with the littoral chain of Caraccas. What is called in svstems of veins a raking takes place there — a union of mountain chains which have been elevated upon two fissures of very different directions, and probably even at very different times. The eastern Cordillera departs far more than the two others, from a meridional direction, diverging toward the northeast, so that at the snowy mountains of Merida (lat. 8° 10') it already lies five degrees of longitude farther to the east than at its issue from the mountain group de Los Robles, near the Ceja and Tim ana. To the north of the Paramo de la Suma Paz, to the east of the Purifi- cacion, on the western declivity of the Paramo of Chingaza, at an alti- tude of only 8760 feet, rises, over an oak forest, the fine, but treeless and stern plateau of Bogota (lat. 4° 36'). It occupies about 288 geograph- ical square miles, and its position presents a remarkable similarity to that of the basin of Cashmere, which, however, according to Victor Jacquemont, is about 3410 feet lower at the Wuller Lake, and belongs to the southwestern declivity of the Hymalayan chain. The plateau of Bogota and the Paramo de Chingaza are followed in the eastern Cordillera of the Andes, toward the northeast, by the Paramos of Guachaneque, above Tunja ; of Zoraca, above Sogamoso ; of Chita (16,000 feet ?), near the sources of the Rio Casanare, a tributary of the Meta ; of the Almorzadera (12,854 feet), near Socorro ; of Cacota TRUE VOLCANOES. 279 Although, in the series of volcanoes of Bolivia and Chili, the western branch of the chain of the Andes, which approach- es nearest to the Pacific, at present exhibits the greater part of the (races of still existing volcanic activity, yet a very ex- perienced observer, Pentland, has discovered at the foot of the eastern chain, more than 180 geographical miles from the sea-coast, a perfectly preserved but extinct crater, with un- mistakable lava streams. This is situated upon the summit of a conical mountain, near San Pedro de Cacha, in the val- ley of Yucay, at an elevation of nearly 12,000 feet (lat. 14° 8', long. 71° 20'), southeast from Cuzco, where the eastern snowy chain of Apolobamba, Carabaya, and Vilcanoto extends from southeast to northwest. This remarkable point* is marked by the ruins of a famous temple of the Inca Viracocha. The distance from the sea of this old lava-producing volcano is (10,986 feet), near Pamplona ; of Laura and Porquera, near La Grita. Here, between Pamplona, Salazar, and Rosario (between lat. 7° 8' and 7° 50 ), is situated the small mountain group, from which a crest ex- tends from south to north toward Ocafia and Valle de Upar to the west of the Laguna de Maracaibo, and unites with the most advanced mountains of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta (19,000 feet?). The more elevated and vaster crest continues in .the original northeasterly direction toward Merida, Truxillo, and Barquiscmeto, to unite there, to the eastward of the Laguna de Maracaibo, with the granitic littoral chain of Venezuela, to the west of Puerto Cabello. From the Grita and the Paramo de Porquera the eastern Cordillera rises again at once to an extraordinary height. Between the parallels of 8° 5' and 9° 7', follow the Sierra Nevada de Merida (Mucuchies), examined by Bous- singault, and determined by Codazzi trigonometrically at 15,069 feet; and the four Paramos, De Timotes, Niquitao, Boconu, and de Las Rosas, full of the most beautiful Alpine plants. (See Codazzi, Resit- men de la Geografia de Venezuela, 1841, p. 12 and 495 ; and also my Asie Centrale, t. iii., p. 258-262, with regard to the elevation of the perpetual snow in this zone.) The western Cordillera is entirely want- ing in volcanic activity, which is peculiar to the central Cordillera as far as the Tolima and Paramo de Ruiz, which however are sep- arated from the volcano of Purace by nearly three degrees of latitude. The eastern Cordillei*a has a smoking hill near its eastern declivity, at the origin of the Rio Fragua, to the northeast of Mocoa and south- east of Timana, at a greater distance from the shore of the Pacific than any other still active volcano of the New World. An accurate knowledge of the local relations of the volcanoes to the arrangement of the mountain chains is of the highest importance for the completion of the geology of volcanoes. All the older maps, with the single ex- ception of that of the high land of Quito, can only lead to error. * Pentland, in Mrs. Somerville's Physical Geography (1851), vol. i., p. 185. The Peak of Vilcanoto (17,020 feet), situated in lat. 14° 28', forming a portion of the vast mountain group of that name, closes the northern extremity of the plateau, in which the lake of Titicaca, a small inland sea of 88 miles in length, is situated. 280 cosmos. far greater than that of Sangay, which also belongs to an eastern Cordillera, and greater than that of Orizaba and Jorullo. An interval of 540 miles destitute of volcanoes separates the series of volcanoes of Peru and Bolivia from that of Chili. This is the distance of the eruption in the desert of Atacama from the volcano of Coquimbo. At 2° 34/ farther to the south, as already remarked, the group of volcanoes of Chili attains its greatest elevation in the volcano of Aconcagua (23,003 feet), which, according to our present knowledge, is also the maximum of all the summits of the New Continent. The average height of the Sahama .group is 22,008 feet ; con- sequently 586 feet higher than Chimborazo. Then follow, diminishing rapidly in elevation, Cotopaxi, Arequipa(?), and Tolima, between 18,877 and 18,129 feet in height. I give, in apparently very exact numbers, and without alteration, the results of measurements which are unfortunately com- pounded from barometrical and trigonometrical determina- tions, because in this way the greatest inducement will be given to the repetition of the measurements and correction of the results. In the series of volcanoes of Chili, of which I have cited twenty-four, it is unfortunately for the most part only the southern and lower ones, from Antuco to Yan tales, between the parallels of 37° 20' and 43° 40', that have been hypsometrically determined. These have the inconsiderable elevation of from six to eight thousand feet. Even in Tierra del Fuego itself the summit of the Sarmiento, covered with perpetual snow, only rises according to Fitzroy, to 6821 feet. From the volcano of Coquimbo to that of San Clemente the distance is 968 miles. With regard to the activity of the volcanoes of Chili, we have the important testimony of Charles Darwin,* who re- fers very decidedly to Osorno, Corcovado, and Aconcagua as being ignited ; the evidence of Meyen, Poppig, and Gay, who ascended Maipu, Antuco, and Peteroa ; and that of Domeyko, the astronomer Gilliss, and Major Philippi. The number of active craters may be fixed at thirteen, only five fewer than in the group of Central America. From the five groups of serial volcanoes of the New Con- tinent, which we have been able to describe from astro- nomical local determinations, and for the most part also hyp- sometrically as to position and elevation, let us now turn to * See Darwin, Journal of Researches in Natural History and G colony during the Voyage of the Beagle, 1845. p. 275, 201. and 310. TRUE VOLCANOES. 28j the Old Continent, in which, in complete opposition to thq New World, the greater part of the approximated volcanoes belong not to the main land bill to the islands. Most of the European volcanoes are situated in the Mediterranean Sea, and, indeed (if we include the great and repeatedly active crater between Thera, Therasia, and Aspronisi), in the Tyr- rhenian and vEga?an parts ; in Asia the most mighty volca- noes are situated to the south and east of the continent, on the large and small Sunda Islands, the Moluccas, and the Philippines, in Japan, and the Archipelagoes of the Kurile and Aleutian Islands. In no other region of the earth's surface do such frequent and such fresh traces of the active communication between the interior and exterior of our planet show themselves as upon the narrow space of scarcely 12,800 geographical (1G,928 English) square miles between the parallels of 10° south and 14° north latitude, and between the meridians of the south- ern point of Malacca and the western point of the Papuan peninsula of New Guinea. The area of this volcanic island- world scarcely equals that of Switzerland, and is washed by the seas of Sunda, Banda, Solo, and Mindoro. The single isla?^ 1 of Java contains a greater number of active volcanoes than u:j entire southern half of America, although this isl-. and is only 544 miles in length, that is, only one seventh of the length of South America. A new but long-expected light has recently been diffused over the geognostic nature of Java (after previous very imperfect but meritorious works by Horsfield, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, and Reinwardt), by a learned, bold, and untiringly-active naturalist, Franz Jung- hnhn. After a residence of more than twelve years, he has given the entire natural history of the country in an instruct- ive work — Java, its Form, vegetable Covering, and internal Structure. More than 400 elevations are carefully determ- ined barometrically ; the volcanic cones and bell-shaped mountains, forty-five in number, are represented in profile, and all but three* of them were ascended by Junghuhn. More than half (at least twenty-eight) were found to be still burning and active ; their remarkable and various profiles are described with extraordinary clearness, and even the attain- able history of their eruptions is investigated. No less im- portant than the volcanic phenomena of Java are its sedi- mentary formations of the tertiary period, which were en- tirely unknown to us before the appearance of the complete * Junghuhn, Java, bd. i., s. 79. 282 cosmos. work just mentioned, although they cover three fifths of the entire area of the island, especially in the southern parts. In many districts of Java there occur, as the remains of former widely-spread forests, fragments, from three to seven feet in length, of silicined trunks of trees, which all belong to the Dicotyledons. For a country in which at present an abundance of palms and tree ferns grows, this is the more re- markable, because in the Miocene tertiary rocks of the brown- coal formation of Europe, wrhere arborescent monocotyledons no longer thrive, fossil palms are not unfrequently met with.* By a diligent collection of the impressions of leaves and fos- silized woods, Junghuhn has been enabled to give us, as the first example of the fossil flora of a purely tropical region, the ancient flora of Java, ingeniously elaborated by Goppert from his collection. As regards the elevation to which they attain, the volca- noes of Java are far inferior to those of the three groups of Chili, Bolivia, and Peru, and even to those of the two groups of Quito with New Granada, and of Tropical Mexico. The maxima attained by these American groups are : For Chili, Bolivia, and Quito, 21,000 to 23,000 feet, and for Mexico, 18,000 feet. This is nearly ten thousand feet (about the height of ./Etna) more than the greatest elevation of the vol- canoes of Sumatra and Java. On the latter island the highest still burning colossus is the Gunung Semeru, the culminating point of the entire Javanese series of volcanoes. Junghuhn ascended this in September, 1844; the average of his baro- metric measurements gave 12,233 feet above the surface of the sea, and consequently 1748 feet more than the summit of iEtna. At night the centigrade thermometer fell below 0°.2 (43°.2 Fahr.). The old Sanscrit name of Gunung Se- meru was Makd-Meru (the Great Meru) ; a reminiscence of the time when the Malays received Indian civilization — a reminiscence of the Mountain of the World in the north, which, according to the Mahabharata, is the dwelling-place of Brahma, Vishnu, and the seven Devarschi.f It is re- * Op. cit., bd. iii., s. 15;> and Goppert, Die Tertidr flora avf cler Insel Java nach den Entdechungsa von Fr. Junghnhn (185-t), s. 17. The ab- sence of monocotyledons is, however, peculiar to the silicified trunks of trees lying scattered upon the surface, and especially in the rivulets of the district of Bantam ; in the subterranean carbonaceous strata, on the contrary, there are remains of palm-wood, belonging to two genera QFlabellaria and Amesonenrori). See Goppert, s. 31 and S~>. f Upon the signification of the word Merit, and the conjectures which Burnouf communicated to me regarding its connection with TRUE VOLCANOES. 283 markable that, as the natives of the plateau of Quito had guessed, before my measurement, that Chimborazo surpassed all the other snowy mountains in the country, the Javanese also knew that the Holy Mountain, ]\Iali;'i-JMrru, which is but at a short distance from the Gunung-Ardjuno (11,031 feet), exhibited the maximum of elevation upon the island, and yet, in this case, in a country free from snow, the greater dis- tance of the summit from the level of the lower limit of per- petual snow could no more serve as a guide to the judgment than the height of an occasional temporary fall of snow.* The elevation of the Gunung Scmeru, which exceeds 11,000 (11,720 English) feet, is most closely approached by four other mountains, which were found hypsometrically to be between ten and eleven thousand feet. These are : Gunungt Slamat, or mountain of Tegal (11J116 feet), Gu- nung Ardjuno (11,031 feet), Gunung Sumbing (11,029 feet), and Gunung Lawu (10,726 feet). Seven other volcanoes of Java attain a height of nine or ten thousand feet ; a re- sult which is of the more importance as no summit of the island was formerly supposed to rise higher than six thou- sand feet4 Of the five groups of North and South Ameri- mira (a Sanscrit word for sea), see my Asie Centrale, t. i., p. 114-116 ; and Lassen's Indische Alierthumskunde, bd. i., s. 847. The latter is inclined to regard the names as not of Sanscrit origin. * See page 229. f Gunung is the Javanese word for mountain, in Malayan, giinong, which, singularly enough, is not farther disseminated over the enor- mous domain of the Malayan language ; see the comparative table of words in my brother's work upon the Kawi language, vol. ii., s. 249, No. 62. As it is the custom to place this word gunung before the names of mountains in Java, it is usually indicated in the text by a simple G. X Leopold de Buch, Description Physique des lies Canaries, 1836, p. 419. Not only has Java (Junghuhn, th. i., s. 61, and th. ii., s. 547) a colossal mountain, the Semeru of 12,233 feet, which consequently exceeds the peak of Teneriffe a little in height, but an elevation of 12,256 feet is also attributed to the Peak of Indrapura, in Sumatra, which is al^o still active, but does not appear to have been so accu- rately measured (th. i., s. 78, and profile Map No. 1). The next to this in Sumatra, are the dome of Telaman, which is only one of the summits of Ophir (not 13,834, but only 9603 feet in height), and the Merapi (according to Dr. Horner, 9571 feet), the most active of the thirteen volcanoes of Sumatra, which, however (th. ii., s. 294, and Juughuhn's Battalander, 1847, th. i., s. 25), is not to be confounded, from the similarity of the names, with two volcanoes of Java — the celebrated Merapi near Jogjakerta (9208 feet), and the Merapi which forms the eastern portion of the summit of the volcano Idjen (8595 feet). In the Merapi it is thought that the holy name Merit is again to be detected, combined with the Malayan and Javanese word api, fire. 284 cosmos. can volcanoes, that of Guatemala (Central America) is the only one exceeded in mean elevation by the Javanese group. Although in the vicinity of Old Guatemala the Yolcan del Fuego attains a height of 13,109 feet (according to the cal- culation and reduction of Poggendorff), and therefore 874 feet more than Gunung Semeru, the remainder of the Cen- tral American series of volcanoes only varies between five and seven thousand feet, and not, as in Java, between seven and ten thousand feet. The highest volcano of Asia is not, however, to be sought in the Asiatic Islands (the Archipel- ago of the Sunda Islands), but upon the continent ; for upon the peninsula of Kamtschatka the volcano Kljutschewsk rises to 15,763 feet, or nearly to the height of the Kucu- Pichincha, in the Cordilleras of Quito. The principal axis* of the closely-approximated series of the Javanese volcanoes (more than 45 in number) has a di- rection W.N.W.— E.S.E. (exactly W. 12° N.), and there- fore principally parallel to the series of volcanoes of the eastern part of Sumatra, but not to the longitudinal axis of the island of Java. This general direction of the chain of volcanoes by no means excludes the phenomenon to which attention has very recently been directed in the great chain of the Himalaya, that three or four individual high summits are so arranged together, that the small axis of these partial series form an oblique angle with the primary axis of the chain. This phenomenon of fissure, which has been ob- served and partially described! by Hodgson, Joseph Hooker, and Strachey, is of great interest. The small axes of the subsidiary fissures meet the great axis, sometimes almost at a right angle, and even in volcanic chains the actual maxi- ma of elevation are often situated at some distance from the major axis. As in most linear volcanoes, no definite pro- portion is observed in Java between the elevation and the size of the crater at the summit. The two largest craters are those of Gunung Tengger and Gunung Kaon. The for- mer of these is a mountain of the third class, only 8704 feet in height. Its circular crater is, however, more than 21,315 feet, and therefore nearly four geographical miles in diame- ter. The flat bottom of the crater is a sea of sand, the sur- * Junghuhn, Java, bd. i., s. 80. f See Joseph Hooker, Sketch-Map of Sikhim, 1850, and in his Himalayan Journals, vol. i., 1854, Map of part of Bengal ; and also Strachey, Map of West-Nari, in his Physical Geography of Western Tibet, 1853. TRUE VOLCANOES. 285 face of which lies 1865 feet below the highest point of the surrounding wall, and in which scoriaccous lava masses pro- ject here and there from the layer of pounded rapilli. Even the enormous crater of Kirauea, in Owhyhce, which is tilled with glowing lava, does not, according to the accurate trig- onometrical survey of Captain AVilkcs, and the excellent observations of Dana, attain the size of that of Gunung Tengger. In the middle of the crater of the latter there rise four small cones of eruption, actual circumvallatcd fun- nel-shaped chasms, of which only one, Bromo (the mythical name Brahma, a word which has the signification of fire in the Kawi, although not in the Sanscrit), is now not active. Bromo presents the remarkable phenomenon that from 1838 to 1842 a lake was formed in its funnel, of which Junghuhn has proved that it owes its origin to the influx of atmos- pheric waters, which have been heated and acidulated by the simultaneous penetration of sulphurous vapors* Next to Gunung Tengger, Gunung Kaon has the largest crater, but the diameter of this is about one hall less. The view into the interior is awe-inspiring. It appears to extend to a depth of more than 2398 feet ; and yet the remarkable volcano, 10,178 feet in height, which Junghuhn has ascend- ed and so carefully described,! is not even named on the meritorious map of Raffles. Like almost all linear volcanoes, the volcanoes of Java exhibit the important phenomenon that a simultaneity of great eruptions is observed much more rarely in nearly ap- proximated cones than in those which are widely separated. When, in the night of the 11th and 12th of August, 1772, the volcano Gunung Fepandajan (7034 feet) burst forth, the most destructive eruption that has taken place upon the island within historical periods, two other volcanoes, the Gunung Tjerimai and Gunung Slamat, became ignited on the same night, although they lie in a straight line at a dis- tance of 184 and 352 miles from Pepandajan.J Even if the ♦Junghuhn, Java, bd. ii., fig. ix., s. 572, 596, and 601-604. From 1829 to 1848 the small crater of eruption of the Bromo had eight fiery eruptions. The crater-lake, which had disappeared in 1842, had been again formed in 1848; but, according to the observations of B. van Herwerden, the presence of the water in the chasm of the cal- dron had no effect in preventing the eruption of red-hot, widely-scat- tered scoria?. f Junghuhn, bd. ii., s. 624-041. JThe G. Fepandajan was ascended in 1819 by Reinwardt, and in 1837 by Junghuhn. The latter, who has accurately investigated the 286 cosmos. volcanoes of a series all stand over one focus, the net of fis- sures through which they communicate is, nevertheless, cer- tainly so constituted that the obstruction of old vapor chan- nels, or the temporary' opening of new ones, in the course of ages, render simultaneous eruption at very distant points quite conceivable. I may again advert to the sudden dis- appearance of the column of smoke which ascended from the volcano of Fasto, when, on the morning of the 4th of February, 1797, the fearful earthquake of Kiobamba con- vulsed the plateau of Quito between Tunguragua and Coto- paxi.* To the volcanoes of the island of Java generally a charac- ter of ribbed formation is ascribed, to which I have seen noth- ing similar in the Canary Islands, in Mexico, or in the Cor- dilleras of Quito. The most recent traveler, to whom we are indebted for such admirable observations upon the struc- ture of the volcanoes, the geography of plants, and the psy- chrometric conditions of moisture, has described the phenome- non to which I here allude with such decided clearness that I must not omit to call attention to this regularity of form, in order to furnish an inducement to new investigations. " Although," says Junghuhn, " the surface of a volcano 10,974 feet in height, the Gunung Sumbing, when seen from some distance, appears as an uninterruptedly smooth and sloping face of the conical mountain, still on a closer exam- ination, we find that it consists entirely of separate longi- tudinal ridges or ribs, which gradually subdivide and become broader as they advance downward. They run from the summit of the volcano, or more frequently from an elevation several hundred feet below the summit, down to the foot of the mountain, diverging like the ribs of an umbrella." These rib-like longitudinal ridges have sometimes a tortuous course for a short distance, but are all formed by approximated clefts of three or four hundred feet in depth, all directed in the same way, and becoming broader as they descend. They are furrows of the surface " which occur on the lateral slopes of all the volcanoes of the island of Java, but differ consider- ably from each other upon the various conical mountains, in vicinity of the mountain, consisting of detritus intermingled with nu- merous angular, erupted blocks of lava, and compared it with the earliest reports, regards the statement, which has been disseminated by so many valuable works, that a portion of the mountain and an area of several square miles sank during the eruption of 1772, as greatly exaggerated (Junghuhn, bd. ii., s. 98 and 100). * Cosmos, vol. v., p. 183, and Voyage aux Regions Equinox, t. ii., p. 16. TRUE VOLCANOES. 287 their average depth and the distance of their upper origin from the margin of the crater or from an unopened summit. The Gunung Sumbing (11,029 feet) is one of those volcanoes which exhibit the iinest and most regularly formed ribs, as (he mountain is bare of forest trees and clothed with grass." According to the measurements given by Junghuhn,* the number of ribs increases by division in proportion as the de- clivity decreases. Above the zone of 9000 feet there are, on Gunung Sumbing, only about ten such ribs ; at an elevation of 8500 feet there are thirty-two ; at 5500 feet, seventy-two ; and at 3000 feet, more than ninety-live. The angle of in- clination, at the same time, diminishes from 37° to 25° and 10^°. The ribs are almost equally regular on the volcano Gunung Tengger (8702 feet), while on the Gunung Kinggit they have been disturbed and coveredf by the destructive* eruptions which followed the year 1586. "The production of these peculiar longitudinal ribs and the mountain fissures lying between them, of which drawings are given, is ascribed to erosion by streams." It is certain that the mass of meteoric water in this tropic- al region is three or four times greater than in the temperate zone ; indeed, the showers are often like water-spouts, for al- though, on the whole, the moisture diminishes with the eleva- tion of the strata of air, the great mountain cones exert, on the other hand, a peculiar attraction upon the clouds, and, as I have already remarked in other places, volcanic eruptions are in their nature productive of storms. The clefts and valleys (Barrancos) in the volcanoes of the Canary Islands, and in the Cordilleras of South America, which have become of importance to the traveler from the frequent descriptions given by Leopold von BuchJ and myself, because they open up to him the interior of the mountain, and sometimes even conduct him up to the vicinity of the highest summits, and to the circumvallation of a crater of elevation, exhibit analo- gous phenomena ; but although these also at times carry off the accumulated meteoric waters, the original formation of the barrancos§ upon the slopes of the volcanoes is probably * Junghuhn, bd. ii., s. 241-246. f Op. cit. sup., s. 5GG, 590 and G07-609. X Leopold von Buch, Phys. Beschr. der Canarischen Inseln, s. 206, 218, 248, and 289. § Barranco and Barranca, both of the same meaning, and sufficient- ly in use in Spanish America, certainly indicate properly a water- fur- row or water-cleft : la quiebra que hacen en la tierra las corrientes de las aguas — " una torrente que hace barrancas ;" but they also indicate 288 cosmos. not to be ascribed to these. Fissures, caused by folding in the trachytic mass, which has been elevated while soft and only subsequently hardened, have probably preceded all ac- tions of erosion and the impulse of water. But in those places where deep barrancos appeared in the volcanic districts visit- ed by me on the declivities of bell-shaped or conical mount- ains (en lasfaldas de los Cerros barrancosos), no trace was to be detected of the regularity or radiate ramification with which we are made acquainted by Junghuhn's works in the singular outlines of the volcanoes of Java.* The greatest analogy with the form here referred to is presented by the phenomenon to which Leopold von Buch, and the acute ob- server of volcanoes, Poulet Scrope, have already directed at- tention, namely, that great fissures almost always open at a light or obtuse angle from the centre of the mountain, radi- ating (although undivided) in accordance with the normal direction of the declivities, but not transversely to them. The belief in the complete absence of lava streams upon the island of Java,| to which Leopold von Buch appeared to incline in consequence of the observations of Keinwardt, has been rendered more than doubtful by recent observations. any chasm. But that the word barranca is connected with barro, clay, soft, moist loam, and also road-scrapings, is doubtful. * Lyell, Manual of Elementary Geology, 1855, chap, xxix., p. 497. The most remarkable analogy with the phenomenon of regular rib- bing in Java is presented by the surface of the Mantle of the Somma of Vesuvius, upon the seventy folds of which an acute and accurate observer, the astronomer Julius Schmidt, has thrown much light {Die Eruption des Vesiws im Mai, 1855, s. 101-109). According to Leo- pold von Buch, these valley furrows are not originally rain furrows (fiumare), but consequences of cracking (folding, tioilement) during the first upheaval of the volcano. The usually radial position of the later- al eruptions in relation to the axis of the volcano also appears to be connected therewith (s. 129). f "Obsidian, and consequently pumice-stones, are as rare in Java as trachyte itself. Another very curious fact is the absence of any stream of lava in that volcanic island. M. Reinwardt, who has him- self observed a great number of eruptions, says expressly that there have never been instances of the most violent and destructive eruption having been accompanied by lavas." — Leopold de Buch, Descr. des lies Canaries, p. 419. Among the volcanic rocks of Java, for which the Cabinet of Minerals at Berlin is indebted to Dr. Junghuhn, dioritic trachytes are most distinctly recognizable at Burungagung, s. 255 of the Leidner catalogue, at Tjinas, s. 232, and in the Gunung Parang, situated in the district Batu-gangi. This is consequently the identical formation of dioritic trachyte of the volcanoes of Orizaba and Toluca, in Mexico ; of the island Panaria, in the Lipari Islands, and of iEgina, in the JEgean Sea ! TRUE VOLCANOES. 2S9 Jungliuhn, indeed, remarks "that the vast volcano Gunung Merapi has not poured forth coherent, compact lava streams within the historical period of its eruptions, but has only thrown out fragments of lava (rubbish), or incoherent blocks of stone, although for nine months in the year 1837 fiery streams were seen at night running down the cone of erup- tion."* But the same observant traveler has distinctly de- scribed, in great detail, three black, basaltic lava streams on three volcanoes — Gunung Tcngger, Gunung Idjen, and Sla- * Jungliuhn, bd. ii., s. 309 and 314. The fiery streaks which were seen on the volcano G. Merapi were formed by closely-approximated streams of scoria; {trainees de fragmens), by non-coherent masses, which roll down during the eruption toward the same side, and strike against each other from their very different weights on the steep declivity. In the eruption of the G. Lamongan on the 26th March, 1847, a moving line of scoria? of this kind divided into two branches several hundred feet below its point of origin. " The fiery streak," we find it express- ly stated (bd. ii., s. 767), "did not consist of true fused lava, but of fragments of lava rolling closely after one another." The G. Lamongan and the G. Semeru are the two volcanoes of the island of Java, which are found to be most similar, by their activity in long periods, to the Stromboli, which is only about 2980 feet high, as they, although so re- markably different in height (the Lamongan being 5340 and the Semeru 12.235 feet high), exhibited eruptions of scoria?, the former after pauses of 15 to 20 minutes (eruptions of July, 1838, and March, 1847), and the second of 1^ to 3 hours (eruptions of August, 1836, and September, 1844) (bd. ii., s. 554 and 765-769). At Stromboli itself, together with numerous eruptions of scoria;, small but rare effusions of lava also occur, which, when detained by obstacles, sometimes harden on the declivities of the cone. I lay great stress upon the various forms of continuity or division, under which completely or partially fused mat- ters are thrown or poured out, whether from the same or different volcanoes. Analogous investigations, undertaken under various zones, and in accordance with guiding ideas, are greatly to be desired, from the poverty and great one-sidedness of the views, to which the four active European volcanoes lead. The question raised by me in 1802 and by my friend Boussingault in 1831 — whether the Antisana in the Cordilleras of Quito has furnished lava streams ? which we shall touch upon hereafter, may perhaps find its solution in the division of the fluid matter. The essential character of a lava stream is that of a uniform, coherent fluid — a band-like stream, from the surface of which scales separate during its cooling and hardening. These scales, be- neath which the nearly homogeneous lava long continues to flow, up- raise themselves in part, obliquely or perpendicularly, by the inequal- ity of the internal movement and the evolution of hot gases ; and when, in this way, several lava streams, flowing together, form a lava lake, as in Iceland, a field of detritus or fragments is produced on their cool- ing. The Spaniards, especially in Mexico, call such a district, which is very disagreeable to pass over, a malpais. Such lava fields, which are often found in the plain at the foot of a volcano, remind one of the frozen surface of a lake, with short, upraised ice-blocks. Vol. V.— N 290 cosmos. mat.* On the latter the lava stream, after giving rise to a water-fall, is continued into the tertiary rocks.f From such true effusions of lava, which form coherent masses, Jung- huhn very accurately distinguishes, in the eruption of Gu- nung Laniongan,:j: on the 6th of July, 1838, what he calls a stone stream, consisting of glowing and usually angular frag- ments, erupted in a row. "The crash was heard of the breaking stones, which rolled down, like fiery points, either in a line or without any order." I purposely direct especial attention to the very various modes in which fiery masses appear on the slopes of a volcano, because in the dispute upon the maximum angle of fall of lava streams glowing streams of stones (masses of scorire), following each other in rows, are sometimes confounded with continuous lava streams. As the important problem of the rarity or complete defici- ency of lava streams in Java — a problem which touches on the internal constitution of volcanoes, and which, I must add, has not been treated with sufficient earnestness — has recently been so often spoken of, the present appears a fitting place in which to bring it under a more general point of view. Al- though it is very probable that in a group ro series of volca- noes all the members stand in a certain common relation to the general focus, the molten interior of the earth, still each individual presents peculiar physical and chemical processes as regards strength and frequency of activity, degree and form of fluidity, and material difference of products — pecu- liarities which can not be explained by the comparison of the form, and elevation above the present surface of the sea. The gigantic mountain Sangay is as uninterruptedly active * The name of G. Idjen, according to Buschniann, may be explained by the Javanese word hidjen, singly, alone, separately — a derivative from the substantive kidji or ividji, grain, seed, which with sa expresses the number one. With regard to the etymology of G. Tengger, see the important work of my brother upon the connections between Java and India (Kaici-Sprache, bd. i., s. 188), where there is a reference to the historical importance of the Tengger Mountain, which is inhabit- ed by a small tribe of people, who, opposed to the now general Mo- hammedanism of the island, have retained their ancient Indo-Javanic faith. Junghuhn, who has very industriously explained the names of mountains from the Kawi language, says (th. ii., s. 554), that in the Kawi Tengger signifies hill ; the word also receives the same significa- tion in Geriche's Javanese Dictionary (Javaansch-nederdultsch Woorden- boek, Amst., 1817). Slamat, the name of the high volcano of Tegal, is the well-known Arabic word sclamat, which signifies happiness and safety. t Junghuhn, bd. ii., Slamat, s. 153 and 163; Idjen, s. 60S; Teng- ger, s. 773. t Bd. ii., s. 760-762. TRUE VOLCANOES. 291 as the lowly Stromboli ; of two neighboring volcanoes, one throws out pumice-stone without obsidian, the other both at once ; one furnishes only loose cinders, the other lava flow- ing in narrow streams. These characteristic processes, more- over, in many volcanoes appear not to have been always the same at various epochs of their activity. To neither of the two continents is rarity or total absence of lava streams to be peculiarly ascribed. Kemarkable distinctions only occur in those groups with regard to which we must confine our- selves to definite historical periods near to our own times. The non-detection of single lava streams depends simultane- ously upon many conditions. Among these we may instance the deposition of vast layers of tufa, rapilli, and pumice-stone; the simultaneous and non-simultaneous confluence of several streams, forming a widely-extended lava-field covered with detritus; the circumstance that in a wide plain the small conical eruptive cones, the volcanic platform, as it were, from which, as at Lancerote, the lava had flowed forth in streams, have long since been destroyed. In the* most ancient condi- tions of our unequally-cooling planet, in the earliest foldings of its surface, it appears to me very probable that a frequent viscid outflow of trachytic and doleritic rocks, of masses of pumice-stone or perlite, containing obsidian, took place from a composite net-work of fissures, over which no platform has ever been elevated or built up. The problem of such simple effusions from fissures deserves the attention of geologists. In the series of Mexican volcanoes, the greatest and, since my American travels, the most celebrated phenomenon, is the elevation of the newly-produced Jorullo, and its effusion of lava. This volcano, the topography of which, founded on measurements, I was the first to make known,* by its posi- tion between the two volcanoes of Toluca and Colima, and by its eruption on the great fissure of volcanic activity,! which extends from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific, pre- sents an important geognostic phenomenon, which has con- sequently been all the more the subject of dispute. Follow- ing the vast lava stream which the new volcano poured out, I succeeded in getting far into the interior of the crater, and in establishing instruments there. The eruption in a broad and long-peaceful plain in the former province of Michuacan, in the night from the 28th to the 29th of September, 1759, at a distance of more than 120 miles from any other volcano, * Atlas Geographiqae et Physique, accompanying the Relation His- tongue, 1814, pi. 28 and 29. f Cosmos, vol. v., p. 264-266. 292 cosmos. was preceded for fully two (?) months, namely, from the 29th of June in the same year, by an uninterrupted subterranean noise. This differed from the wonderful bramidos of Guan- axuato, which I have elsewhere described,* by the circum- stance that it was, as is usually the case, accompanied by earthquakes, which were not felt in the mountain city in January, 1784. The eruption of the new volcano, about 3 o'clock in the morning, was foretold the day before by a phenomenon which, in other eruptions, does not indicate their commencement, but their conclusion. At the point where the great volcano now stands, there was formerly a thick wood of the Guayava (Psidium pyriferwii), so much valued by the natives on account of its excellent fruit. La- borers from the sugar-cane fields (canaverales) of the Haci- enda de San Pedro Jorullo, belonging to the rich Don An- dres Pimentel, who was then living in Mexico, had gone out to collect the fruit of the guayava. When they returned to the farm (hacienda) it was remarked with astonishment that their large straw hats were covered with volcanic ashes. Fissures had, consequently, already opened in what is now called the Malpais, probably at the foot of the high basaltic dome El Cuiche, which threw out these ashes (rapilli) before any change appears to have occurred in the plain. From a letter of Father Joaquin de Ansogorri, discovered in the Episcopal archives of Valladolid, which was written three weeks after the day of the first eruption, it appears evident that Father Isidro Molina, sent from the neighboring Jesuits' College of Patzcuaro " to give spiritual comfort to the in- habitants of the Playas de Jorullo, who were extremely dis- quieted by the subterranean noise and earthquakes," was the first to perceive the increasing danger, and thus caused the preservation of the small population. In the first hours of the night the black ashes already lay a foot deep ; every one fled toward the hill of Aguasarco, a small Indian village, situated 2409 feet higher than the old plain of Jorullo. From this height (so runs the tradi- tion) a large tract of land was seen in a state of fearful fiery eruption, and " in the midst of the flames (as those who wit- nessed the ascent of the mountain expressed themselves) there appeared like a black castle (castillo negro) a great shape- less mass (bulto grande)." From the small population of the district (the cultivation of indigo and cotton was then but very little carried on) even the force of long-continued * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 209, and vol. v.. p. 172. TRUE VOLCANOES. 293 earthquakes cost no human lives, although, as I learn from manuscript record,* houses were overturned by them near * In mjJSssai Politique sur IctNouvelh Espagne, in the two editions of 1811 and 1827 (in the latter, t. ii., p. 166-175), I have, as the na- ture of that work required, only given a condensed abstract from my journal, without bein^ able to furnish a topographical plan of the vi- cinity or a chart of the altitudes. From the importance which has been assigned to this great phenomenon of the middle of the last cen- tury, I have thought it necessary to complete this abstract here. I am indebted for particular details relating to the new volcano of Jo- rullo to an official document, written three weeks after the day of the first eruption, but only discovered in the year 1830 by a very scientific Mexican' clergyman, Don Juan Jose Pastor Morales ; and also to oral communications from my companion, the Biscayan Don Ramon Es- pelde, who had been able to examine living eye-witnesses of the first eruption. Morales discovered in the archives of the Bishop of Michu- acan a report addressed on the 19th of October, 1759, by Joaquin de Ansogorri, priest in the Indian village la Guacana, to his bishop. In his instructive work (Aufenihalt und Reisen in Mexico, 1836) Burkart has also given a short extract from it (bd. i., s. 230). At the time of my journey, Don Ramon Espelde was living on the plain of Jorullo, and has the merit of having first ascended the summit of the volcano. Some years afterward he attached himself to the expedition made on the 10th of March, 1789, by the Intendente Corregidor, Don Juan Antonio de Riaiio. To the same expedition belonged a well-informed German, Franz Fischer, who had entered the Spanish service as a mining commissary. By means of the latter the name of the Jorullo first became known in Germany, as he mentioned it in a letter in the Schriften der Gesellschaft der Bergbatikunde, bd. ii., s. 441. But the eruption of the new volcano had already been referred to in Italy — in Clavigero's Storia antica del Messico (Cesena, 1780, t. i., p. 42), and in the poetical work, Rustlcatio Mexicana, of Father Raphael Landivar (ed. altera, Bologna, 1782, p. 17). In his valuable work Clavigero er- roneously places the production of the volcano, which he writes Ju- ruyo, in the year 1760, and enlarges the description of the eruption by accounts of the shower of ashes, extending as far as Queratoro, which had been communicated to him in 1766 by Don Juan Manuel de Bustamente, governor of the province of Valladolid de Michuacan, as an eye-witness of the phenomenon. The poet Landivar, an enthu- siastic adherent, like Ovid, of our theory of upheaval, makes the co- lossus rise, in euphonious hexameters, to the full height of three mil- liaria, and finds the thermal springs (after the fashion of the ancients) cold by day and warm at night. But I saw the thermometer rise to 126^-° in the water of the Rio de Cuitimba about noon. In 1 789, and consequently in the same year that the report of the Governor Riaiio and the Mining Commissary Franz Fischer appeared in the Gazeta de Mexico (in the fifth part of his large and useful Dig- cionario Gebgrqfico-historico de las Indias Occidentales 6 America, in the article Xurullo, p. 374, 375), Antonio de Alcedo gave the interesting information that when the earthquakes commenced (29th of June, 1759) in the Playas, the western volcano of Colima, which was in erup- tion, suddenly became quiet, although it is at a distance of " 70 leguas" (as Alcedo says, according to my map only 112 geographical miles !) 294 cosmos. the copper mines of Inguaran, in the small town of Patzcu- aro, in Santiago de Ario, and many miles farther, but not from the Playas. "It is thought," he adds, "that the materials in the bowels of the earth have met with obstacles to their following their old course; and, as they have found suitable cavities (to the east," they have broken out at Jorullo — para reventar en Xurullo). — Accurate topographical statements regarding the neighborhood of the volcano occur also in Juan Jose Martinez de Lejarza's geographical sketch of the ancient Taraskian country : Andlisis Estadistico de la Pro- vincia de Mickuacan en 1822 (Mexico, 1824), p. 125, 129, 130, and 131. The testimony of the author, living at Valladolid, in the vicinity of Jorullo, that, since my residence in Mexico, no trace of an increased activity has shown itself in the mountain, was the earliest contradic- tion of the report of a new eruption in the year 1819 (Lyell, Princi- ples of Geology, 1855, p. 430). As the position of Jorullo in latitude is not without importance, I have noticed that Lejarza, who otherwise always follows my astronomical determinations of position, and who gives the longitude of Jorullo exactly like myself as 2° 25' west of the meridian of Mexico (101° 29' west of Greenwich), differs from me in the latitude. Is the latitude attributed by him to the Jorullo (18° 53' 30"), which comes nearest to that of the volcano of Popocatepetl (18° 59' 47"), founded upon recent observations unknown to me? In my Recueil d'Observ. Astronomiques, vol. ii., p. 521, I have said expressly, " Latitude supposce, 19° 8', deduced from good astronomical observa- tions at Valladolid, which gave 19° 52' 8", and from the itinerary di- rection." I only recognized the importance of the latitude of Jorullo when subsequently I was drawing up the great map of Mexico in the capital city and inserting the E. — W. series of volcanoes. As in these considerations upon the origin of Jorullo I have repeat- edly mentioned the traditions which still prevail in the neighborhood, I will conclude this long note by referring to a very popular tradition, which I have already touched upon in another work (Essai Politique sur la Nouvelle Espagne, t. ii., 1827, p. 172): "According to the belief of the natives, these extraordinary changes which we have just described are the work of the monks, the greatest, perhaps, that they have pro- duced in either hemisphere. At the Playas de Jorullo, in the hut that we occupied, our Indian host told us that in 1759 the Capuchins be- longing to the mission preached at the station of San Pedro, but that, not having been favorably received, they charged this beautiful and fertile plain with the most horrible and complicated imprecations, prophesying that first of all the house would be devoured by flames which would issue from the earth, and that afterward the surrounding air would become cooled to such a degree that the neighboring mount- ains would remain eternally covered with snow and ice. The former of these maledictions having had such fatal consequences, the lower class of Indians already see in the gradual cooling of the volcano the presage of a perpetual winter." Next to that of the poet, Father Landivar, the first printed account of the catastrophe was probably that alreadv mentioned in the Gazeta de Mexico of the 5th of May, 1789 (t. iii., Num. 30, p. 293-297) ; it bears the modest title, Superficial y nada Jacultativa Descripcion del es- tado en que se hallaba el Volcdn de Jorullo, la maTiana del dia 10 de Marzo de 1789, and was occasioned by the expedition of Kiauo, Franz Fischer, TRUE VOLCANOES. 29-0 boyond San Pedro Churumueu. In the Hacienda de Jorullo, during the general nocturnal flight, they forgot to remove a deaf and dumb negro slave. A mulatto had the humanity to return and save him while the house was still standing. It is still related that he was found kneeling, with a consecrated taper in his hand, before the picture of Nuestra Seiiora de Guadalupe. According to the tradition, widely and concordantly spread among the natives, the eruption, during the first days, con- sisted of great masses of rock, scoria?, sand, and ashes, but always combined with an effusion of muddy water. In the memorable report, already mentioned, of the 19th of October, 1759, the author of which was a man who, possessing an accurate knowledge of the locality, describes what had only just taken place, it is expressly said : Que espele el dicho Volcan arena, ceniza y agua. All eye-witnesses relate (I translate from the description which the Intendant, Colonel Eiano, and the German Mining Commissary, Franz Fischer, who had passed into the Spanish service, have given of the condition of the volcano of Jorullo on the 10th of March, 1789), " that before the terrible mountain made its appear- ance (antes de reventar y aparecerse este terrible cerro) the earthquakes and subterranean noises became more frequent ; but on the day of the eruption itself the flat soil was seen to rise perpendicularly (se observo, que el plan de la tierra se levantaba perpendicularmente), and the whole became more or less inflated, so that blisters (vexigones) appeared, of which the largest is now the volcano (de los que el mayor es hoy el cerro del volcan). These inflated blisters, of very various sizes, and partly of a tolerably regular conical form, subse- quently burst (estas ampollas, gruesas vegigas o conos dife- rentemente regulares en sus figuras y tamanos, reventaron despues), and threw boiling-hot earthy mud from their or- ifices (tierras hervidas y calientes), as well as scoriaceous stony masses (piedras cocidas? y fundidas), which are still found, at an immense distance, covered with black stony masses." These historical records, which we might, indeed, wish to see more complete, agree perfectly with what I learn from the mouths of the natives fourteen years after the ascent of Antonio de Riaiio. To the questions, whether M the castle andEspelde. Subsequently (1791), in the naval astronomical expedi- tion of Malaspina, the botanists Mocino and Don Martin Sesse visit- ed Jorullo from the Pacific coast. 296 cosmos. mountain" was seen to rise gradually for months or years, or whether it appeared from the very first as an elevated peak, no answer could be obtained. Riano's assertion that farther eruptions had taken place in the first sixteen or seventeen years, and therefore up to 1776, was declared to be untrue. According to the tradition, the phenomena of small eruptions of water and mud which were observed during the first days simultaneously with the incandescent scoriae are ascribed to the destruction of two brooks, which, springing on the western declivity of the mountain of Santa Ines, and consequently to the east of the Cerro de Cuiche, abundantly irrigated the cane-fields of the former Hacienda de San Pedro de Jorullo, and flowed onward far to the west to the Hacienda de la Pre- sentation. Near their origin, the point is still shown where they disappeared in a fissure with their formerly cold waters during the elevation of the eastern border of the Malpais. Running below the hornitos, they reappear, according to the general opinion of the people of the country, heated, in two thermal springs. As the elevated part of the Malpais is there almost perpendicular, they form two small water-falls, which I have seen and represented in my drawing. For each of them the previous name, Rio de San Pedro and Rio de Cuitimba, has been retained. At this point I found the temperature of the steaming water to be 1260,8. During their long course the waters are only heated, but not acid- ulated. The test papers, which I usually carried about with me, underwent no change ; but farther on, near the Hacienda de la Presentation, toward the Sierra de las Canoas, there flows a spring impregnated with sulphureted hydrogen gas, which forms a basin of 20 feet in breadth. In order to acquire a clear notion of the complicated out- line and general form of the surface of the ground, in which such remarkable upheavals have taken place, we must dis- tinguish hypsometrically and morphologically : 1. The po- sition of the volcanic system of Jorullo in relation to the av- erage level of the Mexican plateau ; 2. The convexity of the Malpais, which is covered by thousands of hornitos ; 3. The fissure upon which six large volcanic mountain masses have arisen. On the western portion of the Central Cordillera of Mex- ico, which strikes from S.S.E. to N.N.W., the plain of the Playas de Jorullo, at an elevation of only 2557 feet above the level of the Pacific, forms one of the horizontal mount- ain terraces which every where in the Cordilleras interrupt TRUE VOLCANOES. 297 the line of inclination of Ihc declivity, and consequently more or less impede the decrease of heat in the superposed strata of the atmosphere. On descending from the central plateau of Mexico (whose mean elevation is 74G0 feet), to the corn- fields of Valladolid de Miehuacan, to the charming lake of Patzcuaro, with the inhabited islet Janicho, and into the meadows around Santiago de Ario, which Bonpland and I found adorned with the dahlias which have since become so well known, we have not descended more than nine hundred or a thousand feet. But in passing from Ario, on the steep declivity over Aguasarco, into the level of the old plain of Jorullo, we diminish the absolute elevation in this short dis- tance by from 3850 to 4250 feet.* The roundish, convex part of the upheaved plain is about 12,790 feet in diameter, so that its area is more than seven square miles. The true volcano of Jorullo and the five other mountains which rose simultaneously with it upon the same fissure are so situated that only a small portion of the Malpais lies to the east of them. Toward the west, therefore, the number of hornitos is much larger, and wThen in early morning I issued from the Indian huts of the Playas de Jorullo, or ascended a portion of the Cerro del Mirador, I saw the black volcano projecting very picturesquely above the innumerable white columns of smoke of the " little ovens" (hornitos). Both the houses of the Playas and the basaltic hill Mirador are situated upon the level of the old non-volcanic, or, to speak more cauti- ously, unupheaved soil. Its beautiful vegetation, in which a multitude of salvias bloom beneath the shade of a new spe- cies of fan palm (Coryphd pumos), and of a new alder (A Inns Jorullensis), contrasts with the desert, naked aspect of the Malpais. The comparison of the height of the barometerf at the point where the upheaval commences in the Playas, * My barometric measurements give for Mexico 1168 toises (7170 feet), Valladolid 1002 toises (G109 feet), Patzcuaro 1130 toises (7227 feet), Ario 994 toises (6358 feet), Aguasarco 780 toises (4089 feet), for the old plain of the Playas de Jorullo 404 toises (2584 feet) (Hum- boldt, Observ. Astron., vol. i., p. 327, JSHvellement Barometiique, No. 366-370). t If the old plain of the Playas be 404 toises (2584 feet), I find for the maximum of convexity of the Malpais above the sea-level 487 toises (3115 feet); for the ridge of the great lava stream 600 toises (3838 feet); for the highest margin of" the crater 667 toises (4266 feet) ; for the lowest point of the crater at which we could establish the barometer 644 toises (4119 feet). Consequently the elevation of the summit of Jorullo above the old plain appeared to be 263 toises, or 1682 feet. N2 298 cosmos. with that at the point immediately at the foot of the vol- cano, gives 473 feet of relative perpendicular elevation. The house that we inhabited stood only about 500 toises (3197 feet) from the border of the Malpais. At that place there was a small perpendicular precipice of scarcely twelve feet high, from which the heated water of the brook (Rio de San Pedro) falls down. The portion of the inner structure of the soil which I could examine at the precipice showed black, horizontal, loamy strata, mixed with sand (rapilli). At other points which I did not see, Burkart has observed " on the perpendicular boundary of the upheaved soil, where the ascent of this is difficult, a light gray and not very dense (weathered) basalt, with numerous grains of olivin."* This accurate and experienced observer has, however, f like myself, on the spot conceived the idea of a vesicular upheaval of the surface effected by elastic vapors, in opposition to the opinion of celebrated geognosists,| who ascribe the convexity, which I ascertained by direct measurement, solely to the greater effusion of lava at the foot of the volcano. The many thousand small eruptive cones (properly rather of a roundish or somewhat elongated, oven-like form), which cover the upheavedsur face pretty uniformly, are on the average four to nine feet in height. They have risen almost exclusively on the western side of the great volcano, as in- deed the eastern part, toward the Cerro de Cuiche, scarcely constitutes -J^th of the entire area of the vesicular elevation 2 5 of the Playas. Each of the numerous hornitos is composed of weathered basaltic spheres, with fragments separated like * Burkart, Avfenthalt xind Reisen in Mexico in den Jahren, 1 825-1831, bd. i. (183G), p.' 227. f Op. cit. sup., bd. i., p. 227 and 230. J Poulett Scrope, Considerations on Volcanoes, p. 267 ; Sir Charles Lyell, Principles of Geology, 1853, p. 429 ; Manual of Geology, 1855, p. 580; Daubeny on Volcanoes, p. 337. See also "on the elevation hypothesis," Dana, Geology, in the United States Exploring Expedition, vol. x., p. 369. Constant Prevost, in the Comptes rendus, t. xli. (1855), p. 866-876, and 918-923 : sur les eruptions et le drapeau de Vinfailli- bilite." See also, with regard to Jorullo, Carl Pieschel's instructive description of the volcanoes of Mexico, with illustrations by Dr. Gum- precht, in the Zeitschrift fur Allg. Erdkunde of the Geographical Society of Berlin (bd. vi., s. 490-517); and the newly-published picturesque views in Pieschel's Atlas der Vulkane der Republik Mexico, 1856, tab. 13, 14, and 15. The Royal Museum of Berlin, in the department of engravings and drawings, possesses a splendid and numerous collec- tion of representations of the Mexican volcanoes (more than forty sheets), taken from nature by Moritz llugendas. Of the most western of all Mexican volcanoes, that of Colima, alone, this great master has furnished fifteen colored views. TRUE VOLCANOES. 299 concentric shells ; I was frequently able to count from 21 to 28 such shells. The balls are flattened into a somewhat spheroidal form, and arc usually 15 — 18 inches in diameter, but vary from one to three feet. The black basaltic mass is penetrated by hot vapors and broken up into an earthy form, although the nucleus is of greater density, while the shells, when detached, exhibit yellow spots of oxyd of iron. Even the soft, loamy mass which unites the balls is, singularly enough, divided into curved lamella?, which wind through all the interstices of the balls. At the first glance I asked myself whether the whole, instead of weathered basaltic spheroids, containing but little olivin, did not perhaps pre- sent masses disturbed in the course of their formation. But in opposition to this we have the analogy of the hills of globu- lar basalt, mixed with layers of clay and marl, which are found, often of very small dimensions, in the central chain of Bohemia, sometimes isolated and sometimes crowning long basaltic ridges at both extremities. Some of the hornitos are so much broken up, or have such large internal cavities, that mules, when compelled to place their fore-feet upon the flatter ones, sink in deeply, while in similar experiments which I made the hills constructed by the termites resisted. In the basaltic mass of the hornitos I found no immersed scoria?, or fragments of old rocks which had been penetrated, as is the case in the lavas of the great Jorullo. The appel- lation Homos or Hornitos is especially justified by the cir- cumstance that in each of them (I speak of the period when I traveled over the Blayas de Jorullo and wrote my journal, 18th of September, 1803) the columns of smoke break out, not from the summit, but laterally. In the year 1780 cigars might still be lighted when they were fastened to a stick and pushed in to a depth of two or three inches ; in some places the air was at that time so much heated by the vicinity of the hornitos, that it was necessary to turn away from one's proposed course. Notwithstanding the refrigeration which, according to the universal testimony of the Indians, the district had undergone within 20 years, I found the temperature in the fissures of the hornitos to range between 199° and 203° ; and at a distance of twenty feet from some hills the tempera- ture of the air was still 108°-5 and 11G°*2, at a point where no vapors reached me, the true temperature of the atmos- phere of the Playas being at the same time scarcely 77°. The weak sulphuric vapors decolorized strips of test paper, and rose visibly, for some hours after sunrise, to a height of 300 cosmos. fully 60 feet. The view of the columns of smoke Avas most remarkable early in a cool morning. Toward midday, and even after 11 o'clock, they had become very low, and were visible only from their immediate vicinity. In the interior of many of the hornitos we heard a rushing sound like the fall of water. The small basaltic hornitos are, as already remarked, easily destructible. When Burkart visited the Malpais, 24 years after me, he found that none of the hor- nitos were still smoking, their temperature being in most cases the same as that of the surrounding air, while many of them had lost all regularity of form by heavy rains and me- teoric influences. Near the principal volcano Burkart found small cones, which were composed of a brownish-red con- glomerate of rounded or angular fragments of lava, and only loosely coherent. In the midst of the upheaved area, cover- ed with hornitos, there is still to be seen a remnant of the old elevation on which the buildings of the farm of San Pedro rested. The hill, which I have indicated in my plan, forms a ridge directed east and west, and its preservation at the foot of the great volcano is most astonishing. Only a part of it is covered with dense sand (burned rapilli). The projecting basaltic rock, grown over with ancient trunks of Ficus indica and Psidium, is certainly, like that of the Cerro del Mirador and the high mountain masses which bound the plain to the eastward, to be regarded as having existed be- fore the catastrophe. It remains for me to describe the vast fissure upon which a series of six volcanoes has risen, in the general direction from south-southwest to north-northeast. The partial direc- tion of the first three less-elevated volcanoes situated most southerly is S.W. — N.E. ; that of the three following near S. — N. The fissure has consequently been curved, and has changed its strike throughout its total length of 10,871 feet. The direction here indicated of the linear but not contiguous mountains is certainly nearly at right angles with the line upon which, according to my observation, the Mexican vol- canoes follow each other from sea to sea. But this differ- ence is the less surprising if we consider that a great geog- nostic phenomenon (the relation of the principal masses to each other across a continent) is not to be confounded with the local conditions and direction of a single group. The long ridge of the great volcano of Pichincha, also, is not in the same direction as the series of volcanoes of Quito ; and in non-volcanic chains, for example in the Himalaya, the TRUE VOLCANOES. 301 culminating points arc often situated, as I have already point- ed out, at a distance from the general line of elevation of* the chain. They are situated upon partial snowy ridges, which even form nearly a right angle with this general line of up- heaval. Of the six volcanic hills which have risen upon the above- mentioned fissure, the first three, the more southern ones, be- tween which the road to the copper mines of Inguaran pass- es, appear, in their present condition, to be of least import- ance. They are no longer open, and are entirely covered with grayish-white volcanic sand, which, however, does not consist of pumice-stone, for I have seen nothing either of pumice or obsidian in this region. At Jorullo also, as at Vesuvius, according to the assertion of Leopold von Buch and Monticelli, the last covering-fall of ashes appears to have been the white one. The fourth more northern mountain is the large, true volcano of Jorullo, the summit of which, not- withstanding its small elevation (4265 feet above the sea level, 1151 feet above the Malpais at the foot of the volcano, and 1C81 feet above the old soil of the Playas), I had some difficulty in reaching, when I ascended it with Bonpland and Carlos Montufar on the 19th of September, 1803. We thought we should be most certain of getting into the crater, which was still filled with hot sulphurous vapors, by ascend- ing the steep ridge of the vast lava stream, which burst forth from the very summit. The course passed over a crisp, sco- riaceous, clear-sounding lava, swelled up in a coke-like, or rather cauliflower-like form. Some parts of it have a metal- lic lustre : others are basaltic and full of small granules of olivin. When we had thus ascended to the upper surface of the lava stream at a perpendicular elevation of 711 feet, we turned to the white ash cone, on which, from its great steepness, we could not but fear that during frequent and rapid slips we might be seriously wounded by the rugged lava. The upper margin of the crater, on the southwestern part of which we placed the instruments, forms a ring of a few feet in width. We carried the barometer from the mar- gin into the oval crater of the truncated cone. At an open fissure air streams forth of a temperature of 200o,G. We now stood 149 feet in perpendicular height below the margin of the crater ; and the deepest point of the chasm, the attain- ment of which we were compelled to give up on account of the dense sulphurous vapors, appeared to be only about twice this depth. The geognostic discovery which had the most 302 cosmos. interest for us was the finding of several white fragments, three or four inches in diameter, of a rock rich in feldspar baked into the black basaltic lava. I regarded these at first* as syenite, but from the exact examination by Gustav Rose, of a fragment which I brought with me, they probably belong rather to the granite formation, which Burkart has also seen emerging from below the syenite of the Rio cle las Balsas. " The inclosure is a mixture of quartz and feldspar. The blackish-green spots appear to be not hornblende, but mica fused with some feldspar. The white fragment baked in is split by volcanic heat, and in the crack white, tooth-like, fused threads run from one margin to the other." To the north of the great volcano and the scoriaceous lava mountain which it has vomited forth in the direction of the old basalt of the Cerro delMortero follow the two last of the six often-mentioned eruptions. These hills also were original- ly very active, for the people still call the extreme mountain of ashes El Volcancito. A broad fissure, open toward the west, bears the traces of a destroyed crater. The great volcano, like the Epomeo in Ischia, appears to have only once poured out a mighty lava stream. That its lava-pouring activity * " M. Bonpland and myself were particularly astonished at finding, encased in the basaltic, lithoid, and scorified lavas of the volcano of Jorullo, white or greenish-white angular fragments of syenite, com- posed of a little amphibole and a great quantity of lamellar feldspar. Where these masses have been split by heat the feldspar has become filamentous, so that the margins of the crack are united in some places by fibres elongated from the mass. In the Cordilleras of South Amer- ica, between Popayan and Almaguer at the foot of the Cerro Bronco- so, I have found actual fragments of gneiss encased in a trachyte abounding in pyroxene. These phenomena prove that the trachytic formations have issued from beneath the granitic crust of the globe. Analogous phenomena are presented by the trachytes of the Siebenge- birge on the banks of the Rhine, and by the inferior strata of Phono- lite (Porphyrschiefer) of the Biliner Stein in Bohemia." (Humboldt, Essai Gcognostique sur le Gisement cles Roches, 1823, p. 133 and 339.) Burkart also {Anfenthalt und Reisen in Mexico, bd. i., s. 230) detected inclosed in the black lava, abounding in olivin, of Jorullo, "blocks of a metamorphosed syenite. Hornblende is rarely to be recognized dis- tinctly. The blocks of syenite may certainly furnish an incontiwerti- ble proof that the seat of the focus of the volcano of Jorullo is either in or below the syenite, which shows itself in considerable extent, a few miles (kguas) farther south, on the left bank of the Rio de las Balsas, flowing into the Pacific Ocean." Dolomieu, and, in 1832, the excellent geognosist, Friedrich Hoffmann, found in Lipari, near Cane- to, fragments of granite, formed of pale red feldspar, black mica, and a little pale gray quartz, inclosed in compact masses of obsidian (Pog- gendorfFs Annalen tier Physik, bd. xxvi., s. 49). TRUE VOLCANOES. 303 endured after the period of its first eruption is not proved historically; for the valuable letter, so happily discovered, of Father Joaquin de Ansogorri, written scarcely three weeks after the first eruption, treats almost exclusively of the means of making u arrangements for the better pastoral care of the country people who had lied from the catastrophe and be- come dispersed;" and for the following thirty years we have no records. As the tradition speaks very generally of fires which covered so great a surface, it is certainly to be sup- posed that all the six hills upon the great fissure, and the portion of the Malpais itself in which the hornitos have ap- peared, were simultaneously in combustion. The tempera- ture of the surrounding air, which I measured, allows us to judge of the heat which prevailed there 43 years previously ; they remind one of the former condition of our planet, in which the temperature of its atmospheric envelope, and with this the distribution of organic life, might be modified by the thermic action of the interior by means of deep fissures (un- der any latitude and for long periods of time). Since I described the hornitos which surround the volcano of Jorullo, many analogous platforms in various regions of the world have been compared with these oven-like little hills. To me the Mexican ones, from their interior conformation, appear still to stand in a very contrasting and isolated con- dition. If all upheavals which emit vapors are to be called eruptive cones, the hornitos certainly deserve the appellation of Fumaroles. But the denomination eruptive cones would lead to the erroneous notion that there is evidence that the hornitos have thrown out scoria?, or even, like many eruptive cones, poured forth lava. Very different, for example (to advert to a great phenomenon), are the three chasms in Asia Minor, upon the former boundaries of Mysia and Phrygia, in the ancient burning country..(Katakekaumene), "where it is dangerous to dwell (on account of the earthquakes)," which Strabo calls (frvoat, or wind-bags, and which the meritorious traveler, William Hamilton, has rediscovered.* Eruptive cones, such as are exhibited by the island of Lancerote near * Strabo, lib. xiii., p. 579 and 628; Hamilton, Researches in Asia Minor, vol. ii., chap. 39. The most western of the three cones, now called Kara Devlit, is raised 532 feet above the plain, and has emitted a great lava stream in the direction of Koala. Hamilton counted more than thirty small cones in the vicinity. The three chasms ()369poi and istritos Minerales de Mexico, 1827, p. 5. X On the solidification and formation of the crusts of the earth, see Cosmos, vol. i., p. 172, 173. The experiments of Bischof, Charles De- ville, and Delesse have thrown a new light upon the folding of the body of the earth. See also the older, ingenious considerations of Babbage, on the occasion of his thermic explanation of the problem presented by the temple of Serapis to the north of Puzzuoli, in the Quarterly Journal of the Geological Society of London, vol. iii., 1847, p. 186 ; Charles Deville, Stir la Diminution de Densite dans les Roches en pas- sant de Vetat cristallin a le'tat vitreux, in the Comptes rendus de TAcad. des Sciences, t. xx., 1845, p. 1453 ; Delesse, Sur les Effets de la Fusion, t. xxv., 1847, p. 455 ; Louis Frapolli, Sur la Caractere Geologique, in the Bull, de la Soc. Gcol. de France, 2me. serie, t. iv., 1847, p. 627 ; and, above all, Elie de Beaumont, in his important work, Notice sur les Sys- TRUE VOLCANOES. 325 nnd evidence of this activity in tho various regions of the earth, the number of recognizable volcanic platforms (open, conical, and dome->liapcd mountains) upheaved upon fissures. Tins enumeration has been repeatedly and often very imper- fectly attempted : eruptive hills and solfataras, belonging to one and the same system, have been referred to as distinct volcanoes. The magnitude of the space in the interior of continents which has hitherto remained closed to all scien- tific investigation, has not been so great an obstacle to the solidity of this work as is commonly supposed, as islands and regions near the coast are generally the principal seat of volcanoes. In a numerical investigation, which can not be brought to a full conclusion in the present state of our knowl- edge, much is already gained when we attain to a result which is to be regarded as a lower limit, and when we can determ- ine with great probability upon how many points the fluid interior of our earth has remained in active communication with the atmosphere within the historical period. Such an activity usually manifests itself simultaneously in eruptions from volcanic platforms (conical mountains), in the increas- ing heat and inflammability of thermal springs and naphtha wells, and in the increased extent of circles of commotion, phenomena which all stand in intimate connection and in mutual dependence.* Here again, also, Leopold von Buch has the great merit of having (in the supplements to the Phys- ical Description of the Canary Islands) for the first time under- taken to bring the volcanic system of the whole earth, after tbnes de Moutagnes, 1852, t. iii. The following three sections deserve the particular attention of geologists : Considerations sur les Soideve- ments dus a une diminution lente et progressive du volume de la Terre, p. 1330 ; Stir l'Ecrasement Transversal nomvie refoulement par Saussure, comme une des causes de l 'elevation des Chaines de Montagues, p. 1317, 1333, and 1346; Sur la Contraction que les Roches fondues tprouvent en cristallisant, tendant des le commencement cm refroidissement du Globe a rendre sa masse interne plus petite que la capacitc de son enveloppe ext'eri- eure, p. 1235. * " The hot springs of Saragyn at the height of fully 5G00 feet are remarkable for the part played by the carbonic acid gas which trav- erses them at the period of earthquakes. At this epoch the gas, like the carbonated hydrogen of the peninsula of Apscheron, increases in volume, and becomes heated, before and during the earthquakes in the plain of Ardebil. In the peninsula of Apscheron the temperature rises 36°, until spontaneous inflammation occurs at the moment when and the spot where an igneous eruption takes place, which is always prog- nosticated by earthquakes in the provinces of Chemakhi and Apsche- ron." Abich, in the Melanges Physiques et Oumiqucs, t. ii., 1855, p. 364-365 (see Cosjnos, vol. v., p. 169). 326 cosmos. the fundamental distinction of Central and Linear Volcanoes, under one cosmical point of view. My own more recent, and, probably for this reason, more complete enumeration, under- taken in accordance with principles which I have already in- dicated (p. 233 and 257), and therefore excluding unopened bell-shaped mountains and mere eruptive cones, gives, as the probable lower numerical limit (iiombre limite inferieur), a result which differs considerably from all previous ones. It is an attempt to indicate the volcanoes which have been active within the historical period. The question has been repeatedly raised whether in those parts of the earth's surface in which the greatest number of volcanoes are crowded together, and the reaction of the inte- rior of the earth upon the hard (solid) crust manifests the most activity, the fused part may not lie nearer to the sur- face ? Whatever be the course adopted to determine the av- erage thickness of the solid crust of the earth in its maximum : whether it be the purely mathematical one which is present- ed by theoretical astronomy,* or the simpler course, found- ed upon the law of the increase of heat with depth and the temperature of fusion of rocks, f still the solution of this prob- * "W. Hopkins, Researches on Physical Geology in the Phil. Transact. for 1839, pt. ii., p. 311, for 1810, pt. i., p. 193, and for 1842, pt. i., p. 43 ; also with regard to the necessary relations of stability of the external surface ; Theory of Volcanoes in the British Association Report for 1847, p. 45-49. f Cosmos, vol. v., p. 38-40; Naumann, Geognosie, bd. i., p. 66-76; Bischof, Wdrmelehre, s. 382 ; Lyell, Principles of Geology, 1853, p. 536 -547 and 562. In the very interesting and instructive work, Souvenirs oVun Naturaliste, by A. de Quatrefages, 1854, t. ii., p. 469, the upper limit of the fused liquid strata is brought up to the small depth of 20 kilometres "as most of the silicates fuse at 1231°." "This low esti- mate," as Gustav Rose observes, "is founded in an error. The tem- perature of 2372°, which is given by Mitscherlich as the melting point of granite {Cosmos, vol. i., p. 25), is certainly the minimum that we can admit. I have repeatedly had granite placed in the hottest parts of a porcelain furnace, and it was always but imperfectly fused. The mica alone fuses with the feldspar to form a vesicular glass ; the quartz be- comes opaque, but does not fuse. This is the case with all rocks which contain quartz ; and this means may even be made use of for the de- tection of quartz in rocks, in which its quantity is so small that it can not be discovered with the naked eye ; for example, in the syenite of Plauen, and in the diorite which we brought in 1829 from Alapajewsk, in the Ural. All rocks which contain no quartz, or any other miner- als so rich in silica as granite, such as basalt, for example, fuse more readily than granite to form a perfect glass in the porcelain furnace ; but not over the spirit lamp with a double current, which is neverthe- less certainly capable of producing a temperature of ]231°." In Bis- TRUE VOLCANOES. 327 1cm presents a great number of values "which are at present undetermined. Among these we have to mention the influ- ence of an enormous pressure upon fusibility; the different conduction of heat by heterogeneous rocks; the remarkable enfeebling of conductibility with a great increase of tempera- ture, treated of by Edward Forbes ; the unequal depth of the oceanic basin ; and the local accidents in the connection and nature of the fissures which lead down to the fluid interior! If the greater vicinity of the upper limit of the fluid interior in particular regions of the earth may explain the frequency of volcanoes and the greater multiplicity of communication between the depths and the atmosphere, this vicinity again may depend either upon the relative average differences of elevation of the sea-bottom and the continents, or upon the unequal perpendicular depth at which the surface of the molt- en fluid mass occurs, in various geographical longitudes and latitudes. But where docs such a surface commence? Are there not intermediate degrees between perfect solidity and perfect mobility of the parts? — states of transition which have frequently been referred to in the discussions relative to the plasticity of some Plutonic and volcanic rocks which have been elevated to the surface, and also with regard to the move- ment of glaciers. Such intermediate states abstract them- selves from mathematical considerations, just as much as the condition of the so-called fluid interior under an enormous pressure. If it be not even very probable that the tempera- ture every where continues to increase with the depth in ar- ithmetical progression, local intermediate disturbances may also occur, for example, by subterranean basins (cavities in the hard mass), which are from time to time partially filled from below with fluid lava and vapors resting upon it.* Even the immortal author of the Protogcea allows these cav- ities to play a part in the theory of the diminishing central heat : " Fostremo credibile est contrahentem se refrigeratione crustam bullas reliquisse, ingentes pro rei magnitudine id est sub vastis fornicibus cavitates."^ The more improbable it is. chof 's remarkable experiments on the fusion of a globule of basalt, even this mineral appeared, from some hypothetical assumptions, to require a temperature 264° higher than the melting point of copper. (Wannekhre des Innern unsers JErdkdrp&rs, s. 473.) * Cosmos, vol. v., p. 1G2. See also with regard to the unequal dis- tribution of the icy soil, and the depth at which it commences, inde- pendently of geographical latitude, the l-emarkable observations of Captain Franklin, Erman, Kuptfcr, and especially of Middendorff (loc. cit. sup., s. 42, 47 and 167). f Leibnitz in the Protogcea ; § 4. 328 cosmos. that the thickness of the crust already solidified is the same in all regions, the more important is the consideration of the number and geographical position of the volcanoes which have been open in historical periods. Such an examination of the geography of volcanoes can only be perfected by fre- quently-renewed attempts. I. Europe. JEtnci, Volcano in the Liparis, Stromboli, Ischia, Vesuvius, Scmtorin, Lemnos, All belong to the great basin of the Mediterranean, but to its European and not to its African shores ; and all these seven volcanoes are still, or have been, active in known his- torical periods ; the burning mountain Mosychlos in Lemnos, which Homer names the favorite seat of Hephaestos, was only destroyed and sunk beneath the waves of the sea by earthquakes, together with the island of Chryse, after the time of the great Macedonian {Cosmos, vol. i., p. 246 ; Ukert, Geogr. der Griechen und Romer, th. ii., abth. 1, s. 198). The great upheaval of the three Kaimenes in the middle of the Gulf of Santorin (partly inclosed by Thera, Therasia, and Aspronisi), which has been repeated several times within about 1900 years (from 186 B.C. to 1712 of our epoch), had in their production and disappearance a remarkable similar- ity with the relatively unimportant phenomenon of the tem- porary formation of the islands which were called Graham, Julia, and Ferdinandea, between Sciacca and Pantellaria. Upon the peninsula of Methana, which has already been fre- quently mentioned (Cosmos, vol. i., p. 240; vol. v., p. 218), there are distinct traces of volcanic eruptions in the reddish- brown trachyte which rises from the limestone near Kaime- nochari and Ka'imeno (Curtius, Pelop., bd. ii., s. 439). Of pre-historic volcanoes with fresh traces of the emission of lava from craters there are, counting from north to south, those of the Eifel (Mosenberg, Geroldstein), farthest to the north ; the great crater of elevation in which Schemnitz is situated; Auvergne (Chaine des Puys or of the Monts Domes, TRUE VOLCANOES. 329 le Cone du Cantal, Irs Monts-Dore) ; Vivarais, in which the an- cient lavas have broken out from gneiss (Coiq)e dy Asac, and the cone o£ Montpezat); Vclay : eruptions of scoria; from which no lava issue ; the Euganean hills; the Alhan mount- ains, Kocca Moniina and Yultur, near Teano and Melii ; the extinct volcanoes about Olot and Castell Follit, in Catalo- nia ;* the island group, Las Columbrctes, near the coast of Valencia (the sickle-shaped larger island Columbraria of the Romans, upon which Montcolibre, latitude 39° 54' accord- ing to Captain Smyth, is full of obsidian and cellular tra- chyte) ; the Greek island Nisyros, one of the Carpathian Sporades, of a perfectly round form, in the middle of which, at an elevation of 2270 feet according to Ross, there is a deep, walled cauldron, with a strongly detonating solfatara, from which at one time radiating lava streams poured them- selves into the sea, where they now form small promontories, and furnished volcanic millstones in Strabo's time (Ross, Rei- sen aufden griechischen Inseln, bd. ii., s. C9, and 72—78). For the British islands we have here still to mention, on account of the antiquity of the formations, the remarkable effects of submarine volcanoes upon the strata of the lower Silurian formation (Llandeilo strata), cellular volcanic fragments be- ing baked into these strata, while, according to Sir Roderick Murchison's important observation, even the eruptive trap- masses penetrate into lower silurian strata in the Corndon mountains (Shropshire and Montgomeryshire) ;| the dike-phe- nomena of the isle of Arran ; and the other points in which the interference of volcanic activity is visible, although no traces of true platforms are to be discovered, II. Islands op the Atlantic Ocean. The volcano Esk, upon the island of Jan Mayen, ascended by the meritorious Scoresby, and named after his ship ; height scarcely 1600 feet. An open, not ignited summit-crater ; ba- salt, rich in pyroxene and trass. Southwest of the Esk, near the North Cape of Egg Island, * With regard to Vivarais and Velay, see the very recent and ac- curate researches of Guard, in his Ceologischcn Wanderungen, bd. i. (1856), s. 1G1, 173, and 214. The ancient volcanoes of Olot were dis- covered by the American geologist Maclure in 1808, visited by Lyell in 1830, and well described and figured by the latter in his Manual of Geology, 1855, p. 535-542. f Sir Roderick Murchison, Silwia, p. 20, and 55-58 (Lyell, Manual, p. 563). 330 COSMOS. another volcano, which in April, 1818, presented high erup- tions of ashes every four months. The Beerenberg, 6874 feet in height, in the broad, north- eastern part of Jan May en (lat. 71° 4X), is not known to be a volcano.* Volcanoes of Iceland : Oerafa, Hecla, Rauda-Kamba . . . Volcano of the island of Pico,f in the Azores : a great eruption of lava from the 1st May to the 5th June, 1800. ThePeakofTeneriffe. Volcano of Fogo,{ one of the Cape de Verd Islands. Pre-historic Volcanic Activity. — This on Iceland is less defin- itely attached to certain centres. If we divide the volca- noes of the island, with Sartorius von Waltershausen, into two classes, of which those of the one have only had a sin- gle eruption, while those of the other repeatedly emit lava streams at the same principal fissure, we must refer to the former, Rauda-Kamba, Scaptar, Ellidavatan, to the south- east of Reykjavik . . . . ; to the second, which exhibits a per- manent individuality, the two highest volcanoes of Iceland Oerafa (more than 6390 feet) and Snaefiall, Hecla, etc. Snae- fiall has not been in activity within the memory of man, while Oerafa is known by the fearful eruptions of 1362 and 1727 (Sart. von Waltershausen, Skizze von Island, s. 108 and 112). In Madeira,! the two highest mountains, the conical Pico Ruivo, 6060 feet in height, and the Pico de Torres, which is but little known, covered on their steep declivities with sco- riaceous lavas, can not be regarded as the central point of the former volcanic activity on the whole island, as in many parts of the latter, especially toward the coasts, eruptive ori- fices, and even a large crater, that of the Lagoa, near Ma- chico, are met with. The lavas, thickened by confluence, can not be traced far as separate streams. Remains of an- cient dicotyledonous and fern-like vegetation, carefully inves- tigated by Charles Bunbury, are found buried in upheaved * Scoresby's Account of the Arctic Regions, vol. i., p. 155-169, tab. v. and vi. f Leop. von Buch., Descr. des lies Canaries, p. 357-369, and Land- grebe, Natargeschichte der Vulkane, 1855, bd. i., s. 121-136; and with regard to the circumvallations of the craters of elevation ( Caldeiras) upon tbe islands of St. Michael, Fayal, and Terceira (from the maps of Captain Vidal) (see page 216). The eruptions of Fayal (1672) and Saint George (1580 and 1808) appear to be dependent upon tbe prin- cipal volcano, the Pico. J See pages 236 and 249. § Eesults of the observations upon Madeira, by Sir Charles Lyell and Hartung, in the Manual of Geology, 1855, p. 515-525. TRUE VOLCANOES. 331 strata of volcanic tufa and loam, sometimes covered by more recent basalt. Fernando tic Noronha, lat. 3° 50' S. and 2° 27' to the east of Pernambuco; a group of very small isl- ands ; phonolitic rocks containing hornblende — no crater, but vein-fissures filled with trachytic and basaltic amygda- loid, penetrating white tufa layers.* The island of Ascen- sion, highest summit 28G8 feet ; basaltic lavas with more glassy feldspar than olivin sprinkled through them, and well- bounded streams traceable up to the eruptive cone of tra- chyte. The latter rock of light colors, often broken up like tufa, predominates in the interior and southeast of the island. The masses of scoriae thrown out from Green Mountain in- close immersed angular fragments! containing syenite and granite, which remind one of the lavas of Jorullo. To the westward of Green Mountain there is a large open crater. Volcanic bombs, partly hollow, of as much as ten inches in diameter, lie scattered about in innumerable quantities, to- gether with large masses of obsidian. St. Helena : the whole island volcanic, the beds of lava in the interior rather felds- pathic ; basaltic toward the coast, penetrated by innumera- ble, dikes as at Flagstaff Hill. Between Diana Peak and Nestlodge, in the central series of mountains, are the curved and crescentic shaped fragments of a wider, destroyed crater full of scoria3 and cellular lava (" the mere wreckj of one great crater is left"). The beds of lava are not limited, and consequently can not be traced as true streams of small breadth. Tristan da Cunha (lat. 37° 3/ S., long. 11° 26' W.), discovered as early as 1506 by the Portuguese ; a small circular island of six miles in diameter, in the centre of which a conical mountain is situated, described by Captain Denham as about 8300 feet in height, and composed of volcanic rock (Dr. Petermann's Geogr. MittheiL, 1855, No. iii., s. 84). To the southeast, but in 53° S. lat., lies the equally volcanic Thompson's Island ; and between the two, in the same direc- tion, Gough Island, also called Diego Alvarez. Deception * Darwin, Volcanic Islands, 1844, p. 23, and Lieutenant Lee, Cruise of the United States Brig Dolphin, 1854, p. 80. t See the admirable description of Ascension in Darwin's Volcanic Islands, p. 40 and 41. | Darwin, p. 84 and 92, with regard to "the great hollow space, or valley southward of the central curved ridge, across which the half of the crater must once have extended. It is interesting to trace the steps by which the structure of a volcanic district becomes obscured and finally obliterated." (See also Scale, Geognosy of the Island of St. Helena, p. 28.) 332 cosmos. Island, a slender, narrowly-opened ring (S. lat. 62° 55'), and Bridgeman's Island, belonging to the South Shetlands group ; both volcanic, with layers of ice, pumice-stone, black ashes, and obsidian ; perpetual eruption of hot vapors (Kendal, Journal of the Geographical Society, vol. i., 1831, p. 62). In February, 1842, Deception Island was seen to produce flames simultaneously at thirteen points in the ring (Dana, in United States Exploring Expedition, vol. x., p. 548). It is remark- able that, as so many islands in the Atlantic Ocean are vol- canic, neither the entire flat islet of St. Paul* (Penedo de S. Pedro), one degree to the north of the equator ; nor the Falk- lands (with thin quartzose clay-slate), South Georgia or Sand- wich land appear to offer any volcanic rock. On the other hand, a region of the Atlantic Ocean, about 0° 20/ to the south of the equator, longitude -22° W., is regarded as the seat of a submarine volcano, f In this vicinity Krusenstern saw black columns of smoke rise out of the sea (19th of May, 1806) ; and in 1836 volcanic ashes, collected at the same point (southeast from the above-mentioned rock of St. Paul) on two occasions, were exhibited to the Asiatic Society of Calcutta. According to very accurate investigations by Daus- sy, singular shocks and agitation of the sea, ascribed to the commotion of the sea-bottom by earthquakes, have been ob- served in this volcanic region, as it is called in the new and beautiful American chart of Lieutenant Samuel Lee (Track of the Surveying Brig Dolphin, 1854), five times between 1747 and Krusenstern's circumnavigation of the globe, and seven times from 1806 to 1836. But during the recent expedition of the brig Dolphin (January, 1852), as previously (1838), during Wilkes's exploring expedition, nothing remarkable was observed, although the brig was ordered, " on account of Krusenstern's volcano," to make investigations with the lead between the equator and 7° S. lat., and about 18° to 27° long. III. Africa. It is stated by Captain Allan that the volcano Mongo-ma Leba, in the Cameroon Mountains (4° 12' N. lat.), westward of the mouth of the river of the same name, in the Bight of * St. Paul's Rocks. (See Darwin, p. 31-33 and 125.) f Daussy on the probable existence of a submarine volcano in the Atlantic, in the Comptes rendus de VAcad. des Sciences, t. vi., 1858, p. 512; Darwin, Volcanic Islands, p. 92; Lee, Cruise of the United States Brig Dolphin, p. 2-55, and 61. TRUE VOLCANOES. 333 Biafra, and eastward of the Delta of the Kowara, or Niger, emit tod an eruption of lava in the year 1838. The four high volcanic islands of Annabon, St. Thomas, Isla do Prin- cipe, and San Fernando Po, which run on a fissure in a di- rect linear scries from S.S.W. to N.N.E., point to the Came- roons, which, according to the measurements of Captain Owen ami Lieutenant Boteler, rises to the great altitude of nearly 13,000 feet* A volcano (?) a little to the west of the snowy mountain Kignea, in Eastern Africa, about 1° 20' S. lat., was discov- ered by the missionary Krapf in 1849, near the source of the River Dana, about 320 geographical miles northwest of the coast of Mombas. In a parallel nearly two degrees more southerly than the Kignea is situated another snowy mount- ain, the Kilimandjaro, which Avas discovered by the mis- sionary Rebmann in 1847, perhaps scarcely 200 geographical miles from the same coast. A little to the westward lies a third snowy mountain, the Doengo Engai, seen by Captain Short. The knowledge of the existence of these mountains is the result of laborious and hazardous researches. Evidences of pre-historical volcanic action in the great con- tinent, the interior of which between the seventh degree north and the twelfth degree south latitude (the parallels of Ada- maua and the Lubalo Mountain, which acts as a water-shed) still remains so unexplored, are furnished, according to Riip- pell, by the country surrounding the Lake Tzana, in the king- dom of Gondar, as well as by the basaltic lavas, trachytes, and obsidian strata of Shoa, according to Rochet d'Hericourt, wdiose mineralogical specimens, quite analogous to those of Cantal and Mont Dore, may have been examined by Dufre- noy {Comptes rendus, t. xxii., p. 806-810). Though the con- ical mountain Koldghi, in Kordofan, is not now seen either in a burning or smoking state, yet it appears that the existence of a black, porous, and vitrified rock has been ascertained there."]" In Adamaua, south of the great Benue River, rise the iso- lated mountain masses of Bagele and Alantika, which from their conical and dome-like forms appeared to Dr. Barth, on his journey from Kuka to Iola, to resemble trachyte mount- * Gumprecht, Die Vulkanische Tlmtigheit auf dem Festlande von Af- rika, in Arabien und aufden Inselndes Rothen Meeres, 1849, s. 18. f Cosmos, vol. i., ]>. 245, note J. For the whole of the phenomena hitherto known in Africa, see Landgrebe, NaturgcschiclUe der Vulkane, bd. i., s. 195-219. 334 cosmos. ains. According to Petermann's notices from the note-books of Overweg (of whose researches natural science was so ear- ly deprived), that traveler found in the district of Gudsheba, westward of the Lake of Tshad, separate basaltic cones, rich in olivin and columnar in form, which were sometimes inter- sected by layers of the red, clayey sandstone, and sometimes by those of quartzose granite. The small number of now ignited volcanoes in the undi- vided continents, whose coast-lands are sufficiently known, is a very remarkable phenomenon. Can it be that in the un- known regions of Central Africa, especially south of the equa- tor, large basins of water exist, analogous to Lake Uniames (formerly called by Dr. Cooley, N'yassi), on whose shores rise volcanoes, like the Demavend, near the Caspian Sea? Much as the natives are accustomed to move about over the coun- try, none of them have hitherto brought us the least notice of any such thing ! IV. Asia. a. The Western and Central part. The volcano of Demavend,* in a state of ignition, but, ac- cording to the accounts of Olivier, Morier, and Taylor Thom- son (1837), smoking only moderately, and not uninterrupt- edly. The volcano of Medina (eruption of lava in 1276). The volcano of Djebel el Tir (Tair or Tehr), an insular mountain 895 feet high, between Loheia and Massaua, in the Red Sea. * The height of Demavend above the sea was given by Ainsworth at 14,695, but, after correcting a barometrical result probably attributable to an error of the pen (Asie Centrale, t. hi., p. 327), it amounts, accord- ing to Ottman's tables, to fully 18,633 feet. A somewhat greater ele- vation, 20,085 feet, is given by the angles of altitude worked by my friend Captain Lemm, of the Russian navy, in the year 1839, and which are certainly very correct, but the distance is not trigonomet- rically laid down, and rests on the presumption that the volcano of Demavend is 66 versts distant from Teheran (one equatorial degree being equal to 101-^j versts). Hence it would appear that the Persian volcano of Demavend, covered with perpetual snow, situated so near the southern shore of the Caspian Sea, but distant 600 geographical miles from the Colchian coast of the Black Sea, is higher than the great Ararat by about 2989 feet, and the Caucasian Elburuz by probably 1600 feet. On the Demavend, see Putter, Erdkunde von Asien. bd. vi., abth. i., s. 551-571 ; and on the connection of the name Albordj, taken from the mythic and therefore vague geography of the Zend nation, with the modern name Elburz (Koh Alburz of Kazwini) and Elburuz, see Ibid., s. 43-49, 424, 552, and 555. TRUE VOLCANOES. 335 The volcano of Peshan, northward of Kutsche, in the great mountain chain of the Thian-schan or Celestial Mountains, in Central Asia; eruptions of lava within the true historical period, from the year 89 up to the beginning of the 7th cen- turv of our era. The volcano ofllo-cheu, called also sometimes in the very circumstantial Chinese geographies the volcano of Turfan ; 120 geographical miles from the great Solfatara of Urumtsi, near the eastern extremity of the Thian-schan, in the direc- tion of the beautiful fruit country of Ilami. The volcano of Demavend, which rises to a height of up- ward of 19,000 feet, lies nearly 36 geographical miles from the southern shore of the Caspian Sea, in Mazenderan, and almost at the same distance from Resht and Asterabad, on the chain of the Hindu-kho, which slopes suddenly down to the west in the direction of Herat and Meshid. I have else- where (Asie Centrale, t. i., p. 124-129 ; t. iii., p. 433-435) mentioned the probability that the Hindu-kho of Chitral and Kafiristan is a westerly continuation of the mighty Kuen-lun, which bounds Thibet toward the north and intersects the Bo- lor Mountains in the Tsungling. The Demavend belongs to the Persian or Caspian Elburz, a system of mountains which must not be confounded with the Caucasian ridge of the same name (now called Elburuz), and which lies 7^° farther north and 10° farther west. The word Elburz is a corrup- tion of Alborj, or Mountain of the World, which is connected with the ancient cosmogony of the Zends. While the volcano of Demavend, according to the gener- ality of geognostic views on the direction of the mountain chains of Central Asia, bounds the great Kuen-lun chain near its western extremity, another igneous appearance at its eastern extremity, the existence of which I was the first to announce (Asie Centrale, t. ii., p. 427 and 483), deserves particular notice. In the course of the important researches which I recommended to my respected friend and colleague in the Institute, Stanislas Julien, with the view of deriving information from the rich geographical sources of old Chinese literature on the subject of the Bolor, the Kuen-lun, and the Sea of Stars, that intelligent investigator discovered, in the great Dictionary published in the beginning of the 18th cen- tury by the Emperor Yong-ching, a description of the " eter- nal flame" which issues from an opening in the hill called Shin-khien, on the eastern slope of the Kuen-lun. This lu- minous phenomenon, however deeply seated it may be, can 336 cosmos. not well be termed a volcano. It appears to me rather to present an analogy with the Chirnaera in Lycia, near Delik- tash and Yanartash, which was so early known to the Greeks. This is a stream of fire, an issue of gas constantly kindled by volcanic action in the interior of the earth (see page 243, note f)- Arabian writers inform us, though for the most part with- out quoting any precise year, that lava eruptions have taken place during the Middle Ages on the southwestern shore of Arabia, in the insular chain of the Zobayr, in the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb and Aden (Wellsted, Travels in Arabia, vol. ii., p. 466-468), in Hadhramaut, in the Strait of Ormuz, and at different points in the western portion of the Persian Gulf. These eruptions have always occurred on a soil which had already been in pre-historical times the seat of volcanic ac- tion. The date of the eruption of a volcano at Medina it- self, 12|-° northward of the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb, was found by Burckhardt in Samhudy's Chronicle of the famous city of that name in the Hedjaz. It took place on the 2d November, 1276. According to Seetzen, however, Abulma- hasen states that an igneous eruption had occurred there in 1254, which is twenty-two years earlier (see Cosmos, vol. i., p. 246). The volcanic island of Djebeltair, in which Vincent recognized the " burned-out island1' of the Periplus Maris Ery- thrai, is still active, and emits smoke, according to Botta and the accounts collected by Ehrenberg and Russegger (Reisen in Europa, Asien, unci Africa, bd. ii., th. 1, 1843, s. 54). For in- formation respecting the entire district of the Straits of Bab- el-Mandeb, with the basaltic island of Perim — the crater-like circumvallation, within which lies the town of Aden — the island of Seerah with streams of obsidian, covered with pum- ice— the island groups of the Zobayr and the Farsan (the volcanic nature of the latter was discovered by Ehrenberg in 1825), I refer my readers to the interesting researches of Rit- ter, in his Erdkunde von Asien, bd. viii., abth. 1, s. 664-707, 889-891, and 1021-1034. The volcanic mountain chain of the Thian-schan (Asie Cen- trale, t.i., p. 201-203 ; t. ii., p. 7-51), a range which intersects Central Asia between Altai and Kuen-lun from east to west, formed at one period the particular object of my investiga- tions, so that I have been enabled to add to the few notices obtained by Abel-Remusat from the Japanese Encyclopaedia, some fragments of greater importance discovered by Klaproth, Neumann, and Stanislas Julien (Asie Centrale, t. ii., p. 39-50 TRUE VOLCANOES- 337 and 335-361). The length of the Thian-schan is eight times greater than that of the Pyrenees, if we include the Asferah, which is on the other side of the intersected meridian chain of the Kusyurt-Bolor, stretching westward as far as the me- ridian of Samarcand, and in which lbn Ilaukal and Ibn-al- Vardi describe streams of lire, and notice luminous (?) fissures emitting sal ammoniac (see the account of Mount Botom, ut supra). In the history of the dynasty of Thang it is expressly stated that on one of the slopes of the Pe-shan, which contin- ually emits fire and smoke, the rocks burn, melt, and flow to the distance of several //, like a "stream of melted fat. The soft mass hardens as it cools." It is impossible to describe more characteristically the appearance of a stream of lava. Moreover, in the forty-ninth book of the great geography of the Chinese empire, which was printed at Pekin from 1789 to 1804 at the expense of the state, the burning mountains of the Thian-schan are described as "still active." Their position is very central, being nearly equidistant (1520 geo- graphical miles) from the nearest shore of the Frozen Ocean and from the mouth of the Indus and Ganges, 1020 miles from the Sea of Aral, 172 and 208 miles from the salt-lakes of Issikal and Balkasch. Information respecting the flames issuing from the mountain of Turfan (Hotscheu) has also been furnished by the pilgrims of Mecca, who were officially exam- ined at Bombay in the year 1835 (Journal of the Asiatic Soc. of Bengal, vol. iv., 1835, p. 657—664). When may we hope to see the volcanoes of Peschan and Turfan, Barkul and Hami explored by some scientific traveler, by way of Gouldja on the Hi, which may be easily reached ? The better knowledge now possessed of the position of the volcanic mountain chain of the Thian-schan has very natu- rally given rise to the question whether the fabulous terri- tory of Gog and Magog, where "eternal fire" is said to burn at the bottom of the River El Macher, is not in some way connected with the eruptions of the Peschan or the volcano of Turfan. This Oriental myth, which had its origin west- ward of the Caspian Sea, in the Pylis Albania?, near Der- bend, has traveled, like all other myths, far toward the East. Edrisi gives an account of the journeyings of one Salam el Terdjeman, the dragoman of one of the Abbasside califs, in the first half of the 9th century, from Bagdad to the Land of Darkness. He proceeded through the steppe of Baschkir to the snowy mountain of Cocaia, which is surrounded by the great wall of Magog (Madjoudj). Ame'dee Jaubert, to Vol. V.— -P 338 cosmos. whom we are indebted for important supplements to the Nubian geographers, has shown that the fires which burn on the slope of the Cocaia have nothing volcanic in their nature. (Asie Centrale, t. ii., p. 99.) Edrisi places the Lake of Te- hama farther to the south. I think I have said enough to show the probability of the Tehama being identical with the great Lake of Balkasch, into which the Hi flows, and which is only 180 miles farther south. A century and a half later than Edrisi, Marco Polo placed the Avail of Magog among the mountains of In-schan, to the east of the elevated plain of Gobi, in the direction of the River Hoang-ho and the Chi- nese Wall, respecting which, singularly enough, the famous Venetian traveler is as silent as he is on the subject of the use of tea. The In-shan, the limit of the territory of Pres- ter John, may be regarded as the eastern prolongation of the Thian-schan (Asie Centrale, t. ii., p. 92-104). The two conical volcanic mountains, the Petschan and Hotshen of Turfan, which formerly emitted lava, and which are separated from each other at a distance of about 420 geographical miles by the gigantic block of mountains called the Bogdo-Oola, crowned with eternal snow and ice, have long been erroneously considered an isolated volcanic group. I think I have shown that the volcanic action north and south of the long chain of the Thian-schan here, as well as in the Caucasus, stands in close geognostic connection with the limits of the circle of terrestrial commotion, the hot- springs, the solfataras, the sal ammoniacal fissures, and beds of rock salt. According to the view I have already frequently express- ed, and in which the writer most profoundly acquainted with the Caucasian mountain system (Abich) now coincides, the Caucasus itself is only a continuation of the ridge of the vol- canic Thian-schan and Asferah, on the other side of the great Aralo-Caspian depression.* This is, therefore, the place, in connection with the phenomena of the Thian-schan, to cite as belonging to pre-historical periods the four extinct volca- noes of Elburuz, 18,494 feet in height; Ararat, 17,112 feet; Kasbegk, 16,532 feet; and Savalan, 15,760 feet high.f In * Asie Centrale, t. ii., p. 9, and 51-58. See also p. 199, note *, of the present volume. f Elburuz, Kasbegk, and Ararat, according to communications from Struve, Asie Centrale, t. ii., p. 57. The height of the extinct volcano of Savalan, westward of Ardebil, as given in the text, is founded on a measurement of Chanykow. See Abich, in the Melanges Phys. et Chun., t. ii., p. 361. To save tedious repetition in the citation of the TRUE VOLCANOES. 339 point of height, these mountains stand between Cotopaxi and Mont Blanc. The great Ararat (Agri-dagh), ascended for the firsl time on the 27th of September, 1829, by Friedrich von Parrot, several times during 18-1 1 and 1845 by Abich, and lastly, in 1850, by Colonel Chodzko, is dome-shaped, like Chimborazo, with two extremely small elevations on the border of the summit, but without any crater at the apex. The most extensive and probably the latest pre-historical lava eruptions of Ararat have all issued below the limit of perpetual snow. The nature of these eruptions is two-fold ; they are sometimes trachytic with glassy feldspar, inter- spersed with pyrites which readily weather, and sometimes doleritic, composed of labradorite and augite, like the lavas of JEtna. The doleritic lavas of Ararat are considered by Abich to be more recent than the trachytic. The points of emission of the lava streams, which are all beneath the limit of perpetual snow, are frequently indicated (as, for example, in the extensive grassy plain of Kip-ghioll, on the northwest- ern slope) by eruptive cones and by small craters encircled by scoriae. Although the deep valley of St. James, which extends to the very summit of Ararat, and gives a peculiar character to its form, even when seen at a distance, exhibits much resemblance to the Val del Bove on JEtna, and dis- plays the internal structure of the dome, yet there is this striking difference between them, that in the valley of St. James massive trachytic rock alone is found, and no streams of lava, beds of scoriae or rapilli.* The Great and Little Ararat, the first of which is shown by the geodetic labors of Wasili Fedorow, to be 3/ 47/ more northerly, and 6/ 42 more westerly than the other, rise on the southern edge of the great plain through which the Araxes flows in a large bend. They both stand on an elliptic volcanic plateau, whose major axis runs southeast and northwest. The Kasbegk and the Tshegem have likewise no summit crater, although the former has thrown out vast eruptions toward the north, in the direction of Wladikaukas. The greatest of all these extinct volcanoes, the trachytic cone of the Elburuz, which has risen out of the talc and dioritic schistous mountains, sources on which I have drawn, I would here explain that every thing in the geological section of Cosmos relating to the important Caucasian isthmus is borrowed from manuscript essays of the years 1852 and 1855, communicated to me by Abich in the kindest and friendliest manner for my unrestricted use. * Abich, Notice Eplicative oVune Vue de I 'Ararat, in the Bulletin de la Soc. de Geographic de France, 4erne seric. t. i., p. 516. // 340 cosmos. rich in granite, of the valley of the River Backsan, has a crater lake. Similar crater lakes occur in the rugged high- lands of Kely, from which streams of lava flow out between eruption-cones. Moreover, the basalts are here, as well as in the Cordilleras of Quito, widely separated from the tra- chyte system ; they commence from twenty-four to thirty-two miles south of the chain of the Elburuz, and of the Tsche- gem, on the upper Phasis or Rhion valley. (3. The Northeastern Portion (the Peninsula of KamtschatJca). i The peninsula of Kamtschatka, from Cape Lopatka, which according to Krusenstern, is in lat. 51° 3', as far north as to Cape Ukinsk, belongs, in common with the island of Java, Chili, and Central America, to those regions in which the greatest number of volcanoes, and it may be added, of still active volcanoes, are compressed within a very small area. Fourteen of these are reckoned in Kamtschatka within a range of 420 geographical miles. In Central America I find in a space of 680 miles, from the Volcano of Coconusco to Turrialva, in Costa Rica, twenty-nine volcanoes, eighteen of which are still burning ; in Peru and Bolivia, over a space of 420 miles, from the volcano Chacani to that of San Pedro de Atacama, fourteen volcanoes, of which only three are at present active ; and in Chili, over a space of 960 miles, from the volcano of Coquimbo to that of San Clemente, twenty- four volcanoes. Of the latter, thirteen are known to have been active within the periods of time embraced in historical records. Our acquaintance with the Kamtschatkan volcanoes, in respect to their form, the astronomical determination of their position, and their height, has been vastly extended in recent times by Krusenstern, Horner, Hoffman, Lenz, Liitke, Pos- tels, Captain Beechey, and, above all, by Adolph Erman. The Peninsula is intersected lengthwise by two parallel mountain chains, in the most easterly of which the volcanoes are accumulated. The loftiest of these attain a height of from 11,190 to 15,773 feet. They lie in the following order from south to north. The Opalinskian volcano (the Pic KoschelefF of Admiral Krusenstern), lat. 51° 21'. According to Captain Chwos- tow, this mountain rises to the height of the Peak of Tene- riffe, and was extremely active at the close of the 18th cen- tury. TRUE VOLCANOES. 341 The Ilodutka Sopka (51° 35'). Between this and the one just noticed there lies an unnamed volcanic cone (51° 32'), which, however, according to Postels, seems, like the Ilodut- ka, to be extinct. Poworotnaja Sopka (52° 22') ; according to Captain Bee- ch ey, 7930 feet high (Erman's lieise, t. iii., p. 253 ; Leop. von Buch, lies Can., p. 447). Assatschinskaja Sopka (52° 27) ; great discharges of ashes, particularly in the year 1828. The Wiljutschinsker volcano (52° 52') ; according to Cap- tain Beechey, 7373 feet ; according to Admiral Liitke, G744 feet high. Distant only 20 geographical miles from the har- bor of Petropolowski, on the north side of the Bay of Torinsk. Awatschinskaja, or Gorelaja Sopka (53° 17') ; according to Erman, 8910 feet high ; first ascended during the expedi- tion of La Perouse, in 1787, by Mongez and Bernizet ; after- ward by my dear friend and Siberian fellow- traveler, Ernst Hofmann (in July, 1824, during the circumnavigation of the globe by Kotzebue ; by Postels and Lenz during the expedi- tion of Admiral Liitke in 1828, and by Erman in September, 1829. The latter made the important geognostic observation that the upheaving trachyte had pierced through slate and graywacke (a silurian rock). The still smoking volcano had a terrific eruption in October, 1837, there having previously been a slight one in April, 1828 (Postels, in Liitke, Voyage, t., bd., s. 67-84 ; Erman, lieise, Hist. Bericht, bd. iii., s. 494, and 534-540). In the immediate neighborhood of the Awatscha-volcano (see page 236) lies the Koriatskaja or Strjeloschnaja Sopka (lat. 53° 19'), 11,210 feet high, according to Liitke, t. iii., p. 84. This mountain is rich in obsidian, which the Kamtschat- kans so late as the last century made into arrow-heads, as the Mexicans and the ancient Greeks used to do. Jupanowa Sopka, lat., according to Erman's calculation (lieise, bd. iii., s. 469), 53° 32'. The summit is pretty flat, and the traveler just mentioned expressly states " that this Sopka, on account of the smoke it emits, and its perceptible subterranean rumbling, is always compared to the mighty Schiwelutsch, and reckoned among the undoubted igneous mountains." Its height, as measured by Liitke from the sea, is 9055 feet. Kronotskaja Sopka, 10,609 feet, at the lake of the same name, lat. 54° 8/; a smoking crater on the summit of the very sharp-pointed conical mountain (Liitke, Voyage, t. iii., p. 85). 342 cosmos. The volcano Schiwelutsch, 20 miles southeast of Jelowka, respecting which we possess an admirable work by Erman (Reise, bd. iii., s. 261-317 ; and Phys. Beob., bd. i., s. 400-403), previous to whose journey the mountain was almost unknown. Northern peak, lat. 56° 40', height 10,544 feet ; southern peak, lat. 56° 39', height 8793 feet. When Erman ascended the Schiwelutsch in September, 1829, he found it smoking vehe- mently. Great eruptions took place in 1739, and between 1790 and 1810 ; the latter consisting, not of flowing, melted lava, but of ejections of loose volcanic stones. C. von Ditt- mar relates that the northern peak fell in during the night from the 17th to the 18th of February, 1854. At that time an eruption, which still continues, took place, accompanied by genuine streams of lava. Tolbatschinskaja Sopka; smoking violently, but in earli- er times frequently changing the openings through which it ejected its ashes. According to Erman, lat. 55° 51', and height 8313 feet. Uschinskaja Sopka ; closely connected with the Kliuts- chewsker volcano; lat. 56° 07, height 11,723 feet (Buch, Can., p. 452 ; Landgrebe, Volkane, vol. i., p. 375). Kliutschewskaja Sopka (56° 47), the highest and most act- ive of all the volcanoes of the peninsula of Kamtschatka ; thoroughly examined by Erman, both geologically and hyp- sometrically. According to KraschenikofF's report, the Kli- utschewsk had great igneous eruptions from 1727 to 1731, as also in 1767 and 1795. On the 11th of September, 1829, Erman performed the hazardous feat of ascending the volca- no, and svas an eye-witness of the ejection of red-hot stones, ashes, and vapor from the summit, while at a great distance below it an immense stream of lava flowed from a fissure on the western declivity. Here, also, the lava is rich in obsidian. According to Erman (Beob., vol. i., p. 400-403 and 419) the geographical latitude of the volcano is 5Q° 47, and its height in September, 1829, was, on a very accurate calculation, 15,763 feet. In August, 1828, on the other hand, Admiral Lutke, on taking angles of altitude at sea, at a distance of 160 knots (40 nautical miles), found the summit of Kliuts- chewsk 16,498 feet high (Voyage, t. iii., p. 86; Landgrebe, Vulkane, bd. i., s. 375-386). This measurement, and a com- parison of the admirable outline drawings of Baron von Kit- tlitz, who accompanied Liitke's expedition on board the Se- niaivin, with what Erman himself observed in September, 1829, led the latter to the conclusion that, in this short pe- TRUE VOLCANOES. 343 riod of thirteen months, great changes had taken placo in the form and height of the summit. "lam of opinion," sa}\s Erman ( R( ise, vol. iii., p. 859), "that we can scarcely he wrong in assuming the height of the summit in August, 1828, to have been 266 feet more than in September, 18211, during my stay in the neighborhood of Kliutschi, and that therefore its height at the former of these periods must have been 10,029 feet." In the case of Vesuvius, I found, by my own calculations (founded on Saussure's barometrical measurement in 1773), of the Eocca del Palo, the highest northern margin of the crater, that up to the year 1805 — that is to say, in the course of thirty-two years — this northern margin of the crater had sunk 35^ feet ; while from 1773 to 1822, or forty-nine years, it had risen (apparently) 102 feet (Vieivsvf Nature, 1850, p. 37G-378). In the year 1822 Monticelli and Covelli calcu- lated the Rocca del Palo at 3990 feet, and I at 4022 feet ; I then gave 399G as the most probable result for that period. In the spring of 1855, thirty-three years later, the delicate barometrical measurements of the Olmutz astronomer, Julius Schmidt, again brought out 3990 feet (JYeue Bestimm. Am. Vesuv., 1856, s. i., 16 and 33). It would be curious to know how much should here be attributed to imperfection of meas- urement and barometrical formula. Investigations of this kind might to be multiplied on a larger scale and with greater certainty if, instead of often -repeated completed trigonomet- rical operations or, in the case of accessible summits, the more practicable though less satisfactory barometrical meas- urement, operators would confine themselves to determining, even to fractions of seconds, at comparative periods of twen- ty-five or fifty years, the simple angle of altitude of the mar- gin of the summit, from the same point of observation, and one which could with certainty be found again. On account of the influence of terrestrial refraction, I would recommend that, in each of the normal epochs, the mean result of three days' observations at different hours should be taken. In order to obtain not only the general result of the increase or diminution of the angle, but also the absolute amount of the change in feet, the distance would required to be determined previously only once for all. What a rich source of knowl- edge, relative to the twenty volcanic Colossi of the Cordille- ras of Quito, would not the angles of altitude, determined for more than a century by the labors of Bouguer and La Con- damine, have provided had those travelers accurately desig- nated as fixed and permanent points the stations whence they 344 cosmos. measured the angles of altitude of the summits. According to C. von Dittmar, the Kliutschewsk was entirely quiescent since the eruption of 1841, until the lava burst forth again in 1853. The falling in, however, of the summit of the Schiwelutsch interrupted the new action {Bulletin de la Classe Physico-Mathem. de V Acad, des Sc. de St. Petersbourg, t. xiv., 1856, p. 246). Four more volcanoes, mentioned in part by Admiral Lutke, and in part by Postels — namely, the Apalsk, still smoking, to the southeast of the village of Bolscheretski, the Schischa- pinskaja Sopka (lat. 55° W), the cone of Krestowsk (lat. 56° 4'), near the Kliutschewsk group, and the Uschkowsk — I have not cited in the foregoing series, from want of more exact specification. The central mountain range of Kamts- chatka, especially in the plain of Baidaren, lat. 57° 20', east- ward of Sedanka, presents (as if it had been " the field of an ancient crater of about four wersts, that is to say, the same number of kilometres, in diameter") the remarkable geolog- ical phenomenon of effusions of lava and scoriae from a blis- tery and often brick-colored volcanic rock, which in its turn has penetrated through fissures in the earth at the greatest possible distance from any frame-work of raised cones (Er- man, Seise, bd. iii., 221, 228, and 273 ; Buch, lies Canaries, p. 454). The analogy is here very striking with what I have already circumstantially explained regarding the Mal- pays, the problematical fields of debris in the elevated plain of Mexico (see p. 297). V. Islands of Eastern Asia. From Torres Strait, which in the 10th degree of south- ern latitude separates New Guinea and Australia, and from the smoking volcano of Flores to the most northern of the Aleutian Isles (lat. 55°), there is a multitude of islands, for the most part volcanic, which, considered in a general geo- logical point of view, it would be somewhat difficult, on ac- count of their genetic connection, to divide into separate groups, and which increase considerably in circumference to- ward the south. Beginning at the north, we first observe that the curved series* of the Aleutians, issuing from the * See Dana's remarks on the curvatures of ranges of islands, whose convexity in the South Sea is almost always directed toward the south or southeast, in the United States Exploring Expedition by Wilkes, vol. x. {Geology, by James Dana), 1849, p. 419. TRUE VOLCANOES. 345 American peninsula of Alaska, connect the old and the new continents together by means of the island Attn, near Cop- per Island and Bearing's Island, while to the south they close in the waters of Bearing' s Sea. From Cape Lopatka at the southern extremity of the peninsula of Kamtschatka, we find succeeding each other, in the direction from north to south, first the Archipelago of the Kuriles, bounding on the east the Saghalien or Ochotsk Sea, rendered famous by La Pe- rouse ; next Jesso, probably in former times connected with the island of Kraft o* (Saghalin or Tschoka) ; and, lastly, the tri-insular empire of Japan, across the narrow Strait of Sau- gar (Niphon, Sitkok, and Kiu-Siu, according to Siebold's ad- mirable map, between 41° 32' and 30° 18'). From the vol- cano of Kliutschewsk, the northernmost on the east coast of the peninsula of Kamtschatka, to the most southern Japan- ese volcano island of Tanega-Sima, in the Van Diemen's Channel, explored by Krusenstern, the direction of the igne- * The island of Saghalin, Tschoka, orTarakai, is called by the Jap- anese mariners Krafto (written Karafuto). It lies opposite the month of the Amoor (the Black River, Saghalian Ula), and is inhabited by the Ainos, a race mild in disposition, dark in color, and sometimes rather hairy. Admiral Krusenstern was of opinion, as were also pre- viously the companions of La Perouse (1787) and Broughton (1797), that Saghalin was connected with the Asiatic continent by a narrow sandy isthmus (lat. 52° 5') ; but, from the important Japanese notices communicated by Franz von Siebold, it appears that, according to a chart drawn up in the year 1808, by Mamia Rinso, the chief of an imperial Japanese commission, Krafto is njt a peninsula, but an isl- and surrounded on all sides by the sea (Putter, Erdkunde von Asien, vol. ii., p. 488). The conclusion of Mamia Rinso has been very re- cently completely verified, as mentioned by Siebold, when the Russian fleet lay at anchor in the year 1855 in the Baie de Castries (lat. 51° 29'), near Alexandrowsk, and consequently to the south of the con- jectured isthmus, and yet was able to retire into the mouth of the Amoor (lat. 52° 24'). In the narrow channel in which the isthmus was formerly supposed to be, there were in some places .only five fath- oms water. The island is beginning to acquire some political impor- tance on account of the proximity of the great stream of Amoor or Saghalin. Its name, pronounced Karafto or Krafto, is a contraction of Kara-fu-to, which signifies, according to Siebold, " the island bor- dering on Kara." In the Japano-Chinese language Kara denotes the most northerly part of China (Tartary), and fit, according to the learn- ed writer just mentioned, signifies, " lying close by." Tschoka is a corruption of Tsyokai, and Tarakai originates from a mistake in the name of a single village called Taraika. According to Klaproth (Asia Polyglotta, p. 301), Taraikai, or Tarakai, is the native Aino name of the whole island. Compare Leopold Schrenk's and Captain Bernard Wittingham's remarks, in Petermann's Geogr. Miitlteilungen, 185G, s- 176 and 184. See also Perry, Expedition to Japan, vol. i., p. 468. P2 346 cosmos. ous action, as indicated in the numerous rents of the earth's crust, is precisely from northeast to southwest. The range is carried on by the island of Jakuno-Sima, on which a conical mountain rises to the height of 5838 feet (1780 me- tres), and which separates the two straits of Van Diemen and Colnet — by the Linschote Archipelago of Siebold — by Captain Basil Hall's sulphur island, Lung-Huang-Schan, and by the small group of the Loo-choo and Majico-sima, which latter approaches within a distance of 92 geographical miles the eastern margin of the great island of the Chinese coasts, Formosa or Tay-wan. Here at Formosa (N. lat. 25°-26°) is the important point where, instead of the lines of elevation from N.E. to S.W. those in the direction from north to south commence, and continue nearly as far as the parallel 5° or 6° of southern lati- tude. They are recognizable in Formosa and in the Philip- pines (Luzon and Mindanao) over a space of fully twenty de- grees of latitude, intersecting the coasts, sometimes on one side and sometimes on both, in the direction of the meridian. They are likewise visible on the east coast of the great isl- and of Borneo, which is connected by the So-lo Archipelago with Mindanao, and by the long, narrow island of Palawan with Mindoro. So also in the western portions of the Cel- ebes, with their varied outline, and Gilolo, and, lastly (which is especially remarkable), in the longitudinal fissures on which, at a distance of 1400 geographical miles eastward of the group of the Philippines and in the same latitude, the range of vol- canic and coral islands of Marian or the Ladrones have been upheaved. Their general direction* is north, and 10° east. Having pointed out in the parallel of the carboniferous island of Formosa the turning point at which the direction of the Kuriles from N.E. to S.W. is changed to that from north to south, I must now observe that a new system of fis- sures commences to the south of Celebes and the south coasts of Borneo, which, as we have already seen, is cut from east to west. The greater and lesser Sunda islands, from Timor- lant to West-Bali, follow chiefly for the space of 18° of longi- tude, the mean parallel of 8° south latitude. At the western * Dana, Geology of the Pacific Ocean, p. 1G. Corresponding with the meridian lines of the southeast Asiatic island world, the shores of Co- chin-China from the Gulf of Tonquin, those of Malacca from the Gulf of Siam, and even those of New Holland south of the 25th degree of latitude are for the most part cut off, as it were, in the direction from north to south. TRUE VOLCANOES. 347 extremity of Java the mean axis runs somewhat more to- ward the north, nearly E.S.E. and W.N.W., while from the Strait of Sunda to the southernmost of the Nieobar Isles the direction is from S.E. to N.W. The whole volcanic fissure of elevation (E. to AY., and S.E. to N.W.) has consequently an extent of about 2700 geographical miles, or eleven times the length of the Pyrenees. Of this space, if we disregard the slight deviation toward the north in Java, 1G20 miles belong to the east and west direction, and 1080 to the south- east and northwest. Thus do general geological considerations on form and range lead uninterruptedly, in the island world on the east coast of Asia (over the immense space of 68° of latitude), from the Aleutian Isles and Behring's Sea to the Moluccas and the Great and Little Sunda Isles. The greatest variety in the configuration of the land is met with in the parallel zone of 5° north and 10° south latitude. It is very remark- able how generally the line of eruption in the larger portions is repeated in a neighboring smaller portion. Thus a long range of islands lies near the south coast of Sumatra and parallel to it. We find the same appearances in the smaller phenomena of the mineral veins as in the greater ones of the mountain ranges of whole continents. Accompanying debris, running by the side of the principal vein, and secondary chains (chaines accompagnantes) lie frequently at considerable distances from each other. They indicate similar causes and similar tendencies of the formative action in the folding in of the crust of the earth. The conflict of powers in the con- temporaneous openings of fissures in opposite directions ap- pears sometimes to occasion strange formations in juxtapo- sition, as may be seen in the Molucca Islands, Celebes, and Kilolo. After developing the internal geological connection of the East and South Asiatic insular system, in order not to devi- ate from the long-adopted, though somewhat arbitrary, geo- graphical divisions and nomenclature, wre place the southern limit of the Eastern Asiatic insular range (the turning-point) at Formosa, where the line of direction runs off from the N.E.— S.W. to the N. — S., in the 24th degree of north lati- tude. The enumeration proceeds again from north to south, beginning with the eastern, and more American, Aleutian Islands. The Aleutian Isles, which abound in volcanoes, include, in the direction from east to west, the Fox Islands, among 348 cosmos. which are the largest of all, Unimak, Unalaschka, and Uni- nak — the Andrejanowsk Isles, of which the most famous are Atcha, with three smoking volcanoes, and the great vol- cano of Tanaga, already delineated by Sauer — the Eat Isl- ands, and the somewhat distant islands of Blynia, among which, as has been already observed, Attu forms the connect- ing link to the Commander group (Copper and Behring's Isles), near Asia. There seems no ground for the often-repeated conjecture that the range of continental volcanoes in the di- rection of N.N.E. and S.S.W., on the peninsula of Kamts- chatka, first commences where the volcanic fissure of up- heaval in the Aleutian Islands intersects the peninsula be- neath the ocean, the Aleutian fissure thus forming, as it were, a channel of conduction. According to Admiral Lutke's chart of the Kamtschatkan Sea (Behring's Sea), the island of Attu, the western extremity of the Aleutian range, lies in lat. 52° 46/, and the non-volcanic Copper and Behring's Isl- ands in lat. 54° 30' to 55° 20', while the volcanic range of Kamtschatka commences under the parallel of 56° 40' with the great volcano of Schiwelutsch, to the west of Cape Stol- bowoy. Besides, the direction of the fissures of eruption is very different, indeed, almost opposite. The highest of the Aleutian volcanoes, on Unimak, is 8076 feet according to Liitke. Near the northern extremity of Umnak, in the month of May, 1796, there arose from the sea, under very remark- able circumstances, which have been admirably described in Otto von Kotzebue's " Entdeckungsreise" (bd. ii., s. 106), the island of Agaschagokh (or St. Johannes Theologus), which continued burning for nearly eight years. According to a report published by Krusenstern, this island was, in the year 1819, nearly sixteen geographical miles in circumfer- ence, and was nearly 2240 feet high. On the island of Una- laschka the proportions of the trachyte, containing much hornblende, of the volcano of Matuschkin (5474 feet) to the black porphyry (?) and the neighboring granite, as given by Chamisso, would deserve to be investigated by some scientific observer acquainted with the conditions of modern geology, and able to examine carefully the mineralogical character of the different kinds of rocks. Of the two contiguous islands of the Pribytow group, which lie isolated in the Kamtschat- kan Sea, that of St. Paul is entirely volcanic, abounding in lava and pumice, while St. George's Island, on the contrary, contains only granite and gneiss. According to the most exact enumeration we yet possess, TRUE VOLCANOES. 349 the range of the Aleutian Isles, stretching over 9G0 geo- graphical miles, seems to contain above thirty-four volcanoes, the greater part of them active in modern historical times. Thus we sec here (in 54° and G0° latitude, and 1G0°-19G° west longitude) a strip of the whole iloor of the ocean be- tween two great continents in a constant state of formative and destructive activity. How many islands in the course of centuries, as in the group of the Azores, may there not be near becoming visible above the surface of the ocean, and how many more which, after having long appeared, have sunk either wholly or partially unobserved ! For the min- gling of races, and the migration of nations, the range of the Aleutian Islands furnishes a channel from thirteen to four- teen degrees more southerly than that of Behring's Straits, by which the Tchutches seem to have crossed from America to Asia, and even to the other side of the River Anadir. The range of the Kurile Islands, from the extreme point of Kamtschatka to Cape Broughton (the northernmost prom- ontory of Jesso), in a longitudinal space of 720 geographical miles, exhibits from eight to ten volcanoes, still for the most part in a state of ignition. The northernmost of these, on the island of Alaid, known for its great eruptions in the years 1770 and 1793, is well worthy of being accurately measured, its height being calculated at from 12,000 to 15,000 feet. The much less lofty Pic Sarytshew (4193 feet according to Horner) on Mataua, and the southernmost Japanese Kuriles, Urup, Jetorop, and Kunasiri, have also been very active volcanoes. We now come in the order of succession of the volcanic range to Jesso, and the three larger Japanese Islands, re- specting which the celebrated traveler, Herr von Siebold, has kindly communicated to me a large and important work for assistance in my Cosmos. This will serve to correct what- ever was defective in the notices which I borrowed from the great Japanese Encyclopedia in my Fragmens tie Geologie et cle Climatologie Asiatiques (torn, i., p. 217-234), and in Asie Centrale (torn, ii., p. 540-552). The large island of Jesso, which is very quadrangular in its northern portion (lat. 411° to 45-^°) separated by the Strait of Saugar, or Tsugar, from Niphon, and by that of La Perouse from the island of Krafto (Kara-fu-to), bounds by its northeast cape the Archipelago of the Kuriles ; but not far from the northwest Cape Romanzow, on Jesso, which stretches a degree and a half more northward in the Strait of La Perouse, lies, in latitude 45° ll7, the volcanic Pic de 350 cosmos. Langle (5350 feet), on the little island of Risiri. Jesso itself seems also to be intersected by a range of volcanoes, from Brou^hton's Southern Volcano Bay nearly all the way to the North Cape, a circumstance the more remarkable, as, on the narrow island of Krafto, which is almost a continuation of Jesso, the naturalists of La Perouse's expedition found, in the Bale de Castries, fields of red porous lava and scoria. On Jesso itself Siebold counted seventeen conical mountains, the greater number of which appear to be extinct volcanoes. The Kiaka, called by the Japanese Usaga-Take, or Mortar Mountain, on account of a deeply-hollowed crater, and the Kajo-hori are both said to be still in a state of ignition. (Commodore Perry noticed two volcanoes from Volcano Bay, near the harbor of Endermo, lat. 42° 17'.) The lofty Manye (Krusenstern's conical mountain Pallas) lies in the middle of the island of Jesso, nearly in lat. 44°, somewhat to the E.N.E. of Bay Strogonow. " The historical books of Japan mention only six active volcanoes before and since our era — namely, two on the isl- and of Niphon, and four on the island of Kiu-siu. The vol- canoes of Kiu-siu, the nearest to the peninsula of Corea, reck- oning them in their geographical position from south to north, are, (1) the volcano of Mitake, on the islet of Sayura-sima, in the Bay of Kagosima (province of Satsuma), which lies open to the south, lat. 31° 33', long. 130° 41' ; (2) the vol- cano Kirisima (lat. 31° 45'), in the district of Naka, prov- ince of Finga ; (3) the volcano Aso jama, in the district Aso (lat. 32° 45'), province of Figo; (4) the volcano of Vunzen, on the peninsula of Simabara (lat. 32° 44'), in the district of Takaku. The height of this volcano amounts, according to a barometrical measurement, only to 1253 metres, or 4110 English feet, so that it is scarcely a hundred feet higher than Vesuvius (Rocca del Palo). The most violent eruption of the volcano of Vunzen on record is that of February, 1793. Vunzen and Aso jama both lie east-southeast of Nangasaki." " The volcanoes of the great island of Niphon, again reck- oning from south to north, are, (1) the volcano of Fusi jama, scarcely 16 geographical miles distant from the southern coast, in the district of Fusi, province of Suruga (lat. 35° 18', long. 138° 35'). Its height, measured in the same way as the volcano of Vunzen, or Kiu-siu, by some young Japanese instructed by Siebold, amounts to 3793 metres, or 12,441 feet ; it is, therefore, fully 320 feet higher than the Peak of Teneriffe, with which it has been already compared by Kamp- TRUE VOLCANOES. 351 for (Wilhclm Heine, Hcise nach Japan, 1856, bd. ii., s. A). The upheaval of this conical mountain is recorded in the fifili year of the reign of Mikado VI. (286 years before our era) in these (geognostically remarkable) words: 'In the country of Omi a considerable quantity of land sinks, an inland lake is formed, and the volcano Fusi makes its appearance.9 The most violent historically recorded eruptions within the Chris- tian era are those of 799, 800, 863, 937, 1032, 1083, and 1707 : since the latter period the mountain has been tranquil. (2) The volcano of Asama jama, the most central of the act- ive volcanoes in the interior of the country, distant 80 geo- graphical miles from the south-southeast, 52 miles from the north-northwest coast, in the district of Saku (province of Sinano), lat. 36° 22', long. 138° 38'; thus lying between the meridians of the two capitals, Mijako and Jeddo. The Asama jama had an eruption as early as the year 8G4, con- temporaneously with the Fusi jama ; that of the month of July, 1783, was particularly violent and destructive. Since that time the Asama jama has maintained a constant state of activity. "Besides these volcanoes two other small islands with smoking craters have been observed by European mariners, namely, (3) the small island of Ivogasima, or Ivosima (sima signifies island, and ivu sulphur ; ga is merely an affix mark- ing the nominative), Krusenstern's lie du Volcan, south of Kiu-siu, in Van Diemen's Strait, 30° 43' N. lat., and 130° 18/ E. long., distant only fifty-four miles from the above- mentioned volcano of Mitake ; the height of the volcano is 2364 feet (715 met.). This island is mentioned byLinscho- ten, so early as 1596, in these words : ' The island has a vol- cano, which is a sulphur, or fiery mountain.' It occurs also on the oldest Dutch sea-charts under the name of Vulcanus (Fr. von Siebold, Atlas von Jap. Reiche, tab. xi.). Krusen- stern saw it smoking in 1804, as did Captain Blake in 1838, and Gue'rin and De la Roche Poncie in 1846. The height of the cone, according to the latter navigator, is 2345 feet (715 met.). The rocky islet mentioned as a volcano by Landgrebe in the Naturgeschichte der Vulkane (bd. i., s. 355), and which, according to Kampfer, is near Firato (Firando), is undoubtedly Ivo-sima, for the group to which Ivo-sima belongs is called Kiusiu hit sima, i. 3. TRUE VOLCANOES. 359 Barren Island, in the Bay of Bengal, a little to the east of the great Andaman Island (lat. 12° IT/), is correctly con- sidered an active cone of eruption, issuing out of a crater of upheaval. The sea forces its way through a narrow open- ing and tills an internal basin. The appearance presented by this island, which Avas discovered by Horsburgh in 1701, is exceedingly instructive for the theory of the formation of volcanic structures. AVe see here in a complete and perma- nent form what nature exhibits in only a cursory way at Santorin, and at other points of the earth's surface.* The eruptions in November, 1803, were, like those of Sangay, in the Cordilleras of Quito, very distinctly periodical, recurring at intervals often minutes (Leop. von Buch, in the Abhandl. derJBerl Akademie, 1818-1819, s. 62). The island of Narcondam, to the north of Barren Island, has likewise exhibited volcanic action at a former period, as has also the cone mountain of the island of Cheduba, which lies more to the north, near the shore of Arracan (10° 02'). (Silliman's American Journal, vol. xxxviii., p. 385.) The most active volcano, judging from the frequency of the lava eruptions, not only in the Indian Ocean, but in al- most the whole of the south hemisphere between the merid- ians of the west coast of New Holland and the east coast of America, is that on the island of Bourbon, in the group of the Mascareignes. The greater part of the island, particu- larly the western portion and the interior, is basaltic. Re- cent veins of basalt, with little admixture of olivin, run through the older rock, which abounds in olivin ; beds of lignite are also inclosed in the basalt. The culminating points of the Mountain Island are the Gros Morne and the Trois Salazes, the height of wrhich La Caille overestimated at 10,G58. The volcanic action is now limited to the southern- most portion, the " Grand pays brule." The summit of the volcano of Bourbon, which Hubert describes as emitting, nearly every year, two streams of lava, which frequently ex- tend to the sea, is, according to Berth's measurement, 8000 feet high."f It exhibits several cones of eruption which have received distinct names, and which alternately send forth eruptions. The eruptions from the summit are infrequent. * Leop. von Buch, in the Abhandl. der Akad. der Wiss. zu Berlin, 1818 and 1819, s. G2 ; Lyell, Princ. of Geology (1853), p. 447, where a fine representation of the volcano is given. t Bory de St. Vincent, Voyage aux Quatre Isles d'Afrique, t. ii., p. 429. 360 cosmos. The lavas contain glassy feldspar, and are therefore rather trachy tic than basaltic. The shower of ashes frequently con- tains olivin in long, fine threads, a phenomenon which like- wise occurs at the volcano of Owhyhee. A violent eruption of these glassy threads, covering the whole island of Bour- bon, occurred in the year 1821. All that we know of the great neighboring terra incog- nita of Madagascar is the extensive dispersion of pumice at Tintingue, opposite the French island of St. Marie, and the occurrence of basalt, to the south of the Bay of Diego Sua- rez, near the northernmost Cap d'Ambre, surrounded by granite and gneiss. The southern central ridge of the Am- bohistmene Mountains is calculated (though with little cer- tainty) at about 11,000 feet. "Westward of Madagascar, in the northern outlet of the Mozambique Channel, the largest of the Comoro Islands has a burning volcano (Darwin, Coral Reefs, p. 122). the small volcanic island of St. Paul (38° 38'), south of Amsterdam, is considered volcanic, not only on account of its form, which strongly reminds us of that of Santorin, Bar- ren Island and Deception Island, in the group of the New Shetland Isles ; but likewise on account of the repeatedly- observed eruptions of fire and vapor in modern times. The very characteristic drawing given by Valentyn in his work on the Banda Islands, relative to the expedition of Willem de Vlaming (November, 1696), corresponds exactly, as do also the statements of the latitudes, with the representations in the atlas of Macartney's expedition and Captain Black- wood's survey (1842). The crater-shaped, circular bay, near- ly an English mile across, is every where surrounded by pre- cipitous rocks which fall perpendicularly in the interior, with the exception of a narrow opening, through which the sea enters at flood-tide ; while those which form the margin of the crater fall away externally, with a gentle slope.* The island of Amsterdam, which lies SO7 of latitude far- ther toward the north (37° 48'), consists, according to Val- entyn's representation, of a single, well-wooded, somewhat rounded mountain, from the highest ridge of which rises a small cubical rock, almost the same as at the Cofre de Pe- rote, on the higher plains of Mexico. During the expedition of D'Entrecasteaux (March, 1792), the island was seen for two whole days entirely enveloped in flames and smoke. * Valentyn, Beschryving van Oud en Niemo Oost Indi'cn, Deel iii., (1 726), p. 70 ; Pet Eyland St. Paulo. (Compare Lyell, Princ, p. 446.) TRUE VOLCANOES. 861 The smell of the smoke seemed to indicate the combustion of wood and earth ; columns of vapor were indeed thought to rise here and there from the ground near the shore, but the naturalists who accompanied the expedition wore decidedly of opinion that the mysterious phenomenon could by no means be ascribed to an eruption* of the high mountain, like * We were unable, " says D'Entrecasteaux, ll to form any conjecture as to the cause of the burning on the island of Amsterdam. The isl- and was in flames throughout its whole extent, and we recognized distinctly the smell of burned wood and earth. We had felt nothing to load us to suppose that the tire was the effect of a volcano" (t. ii., p. 45). A few pages before, he says, " We remarked, however, as we sailed along the coast, from which the flames were rather distant, lit- tle puffs of smoke, which seemed to come from the earth like jets ; yet we could not distinguish the least trace of fire around them, though we were very close to the land." These jets of smoke, which appeared at intervals, were considered by the naturalists of the expedition ascer- tain proofs of subterranean fire. Are we to conclude from this that there were actual combustions of earth — conflagrations of lignite, the beds of which, covered with basalt and tufa, occur in such abundance on volcanic islands (as Bourbon, Kerguelen-land, and Iceland)? The Surtarbrand, on the latter island, derives its name from the Scandi- navian myth of the fire-giant Surtr causing the conflagration of the world. The combustion of earth, however, causes no flame, in gen- eral. As in modern times the names of the island of Amsterdam and St. Paul are unfortunately often confounded on charts, I would here observe, in order to prevent mistakes in ascribing to one observations which apply to the other, they being very different in formation, though lying almost under one and the same meridian, that originally (as early as the end of the 17th century) the south island was called St. Paul and the northern one Amsterdam. Vlaming, their discov- erer, assigned to the first the latitude of 38° 40', and to the second that of 37° 48' south of the equator. This corresponds in a remark- able manner with the calculation made by D'Entrecasteaux a century later, on the occasion of the expedition in search of LaPerouse (T oy- age, t. i.. p. 43-45), namely, for Amsterdam, according toBeautemps- Beaupre, 37° 47' 4G" (long. 77° 71'), for St. Paul 38° 38'. This near coincidence must be considered accidental, as the points of observa- tion were certainly not exactly the same. On the other hand Captain Blackwood, in his Admiralty chart of 1842, gives 38° 44', and longi- tude 77 37' for St. Paul. On the charts given in the original editions of the voyages of the immortal circumnavigator Cook — those, for in- stance of the first and second expedition ( Voyage to the South Pole and Round the World, London, 1777, p. 1), as well as of the third and last voyage ( Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, published by the Admiralty, Lon- don, 1784, in 2d edition, 1785), and even of all the three expeditions (A General Chart, exhibiting the Discoveries of Captain Cook in his Third and Two Preceding Voyages, by Lieutenant Henry Roberts) — the isl- and of St. Paul is very correctly laid down as the most southernly of the two ; but in the text of the voyage of D'Entrecasteaux (t. i., p. 44) it is mentioned, by way of censure (whether with justice or not I am unable to sav, although I have sought after the editions in the libraries Vol. V.— Q 362 cosmos. that of a volcano. More certain evidences of former genuine volcanic action on the island of Amsterdam may be found in the beds of pumice-stone (uitgebranden puimsteeii), mention of which is made so early as by Valentyn, according to Vla- ming's Ship Journal of 1696. To the southeast of the Cape of Good Hope lie Marion's, or Prince Edward's Island (47° 2/), and Possession Island (lat. 46° 28', and long. 51° 560, forming part of the Crozet group. Both of them exhibit traces of former volcanic ac- tion— small conical hills,* with eruption openings surround- ed by columnar basalt. More eastward, and almost in the same latitude, we come of Paris, Berlin, and Gottingen), " that on the special chart of Cook's last expedition the island of Amsterdam is set down as more to the south than St. Paul." A similar reversal of the appellations, quite opposed to the intention of the discoverer, Willem de Vlaming, was frequent in the first third of the present century — as, for example, on the older and excellent maps of the world by Arrowsmith and Purely (1833) — but there was more than a special chart of Cook's third voy- age operating to cause it. There was, 1st, the arbitrary entry on the maps of Cox and Mortimer ; 2d, the circumstance that, in the atlas of Lord Macartney's voyage to China, though the beautiful volcanic island represented smoking is very correctly named St. Paul, under lat. 38° 42', yet it is absurdly added, " commonly called Amsterdam," and, what is still worse, in the narrative of the voyage itself, Staunton and Dr. Gillan uniformlv called this " island still in a state of inflam- mation" Amsterdam, anel they even add (p. 226, after having given the correct latitude in p. 219) "that St. Paul is lying to the northward of Amsterdam; and, 3d, there is the same confusion of names by Bar- row (Voyage to Cochin Cldna in the Years 1792 and 1793, p. 140-157), who also gives the name of Amsterdam to the southern island, emit- ting smoke and flames, assigning to it at the same time the latitude 38° 42'. Malte-Brun {Precis de la Geographie Universelle, t. v., 1817, p. 14G) very properly blames Barrow, but he errs in also blaming M. de Rossel and Beautemps-Beaupre. Both of the latter writers give as the latitude of the island of Amsterdam, which is the only one they rep- resent, 37° 47', and that of the island of St. Paul, because it lies 50' more to the south, 38° 38' (Voy. de D' ' Entrecasteaux, 1808, t. i., p. 40-40) ; and to show that the design represents the true island of Am- sterdam, discovered by Willem de Vlaming, Beautemps-Beaupre adds in his atlas a copy of the thickly-wooded island of Amsterdam from Valentyn. I may here observe that, the celebrated navigator, Abel Tasman, having in 1642, along with Middelburg, called the island of Tonga-Tabu (lat. 2H°), in the Tonga group, by the name of Amster- dam (Burney, Chronolog. Hist, of the Voyages and Discoveries in the South Sea or Pacific Ocean, part iii., p. 81 and 437), he has also been sometimes erroneously cited as the discoverer of Amsterdam and St. Paul, in the Indian Ocean. See Leidenfrost, Histor. Handicortenbuch, bd. v., s. 310. * Sir James Ross, Voyage in the Southern and Antarctic Regions, vol. i., p. 46, and 50-50. TRUE VOLCANOES. 363 to Kcrguelcn's Island (Cook's Island of Desolation), for the first geological account of which we are indebted to the sue- cessful and important expedition of Sir James Koss. In the harbor called by Cook Christmas harbor (lat. 48° 41', long. G9° 2/), basaltic lavas, several feet thick, arc found inclosing the fossil trunks of trees; there also is seen the singular and picturesque Arched Hock, a natural passage through a narrow projecting wall of basalt. In the neighborhood arc conical mountains, the highest of which rise to 2GG4 feet, with ex- tinct craters — masses of green-stone and porphyry, traversed by beds of basalt — and amygdalaid with drusy masses of quartz, at Cumberland Bay. The most remarkable of all are the numerous beds of coal, covered with trap-rock (dolerite, as at Meissner in Hessian %), of a thickness of from a few inches to four feet at the outcrop.* If we take a general survey of the Indian Ocean, we shall find the northwesterly extremity of the Sunda range in Su- matra, which is curved, carried on through the Nicobars and the Great and Little Andamans ; while the volcanoes of Bar- ren Island, Narcondam, and Cheduba, almost parallel to the coasts of Malacca and Tenasserim, run into the eastern por- tion of the Bay of Bengal. Along the shores of Orissa and Coromandel, the eastern portion of the bay is destitute of isl- ands, the great island of Ceylon bearing, like that of Mada- gascar, more of the character of a continent. Opposite the western shore of the Indian peninsula (the elevated plain of Neilgherry and the coasts of Canara and Malabar) a range of three Archipelagoes, lying in a direction from north to south, and extending from 14° north to 8° south latitude (the Lac- cadives, the Maldives, and the Chagos), is connected by the shallows of Sahia de Malha and Cargados Carajos with the volcanic group of the Mascareignes and Madagascar. The whole of this chain, so far as can be seen, is the work of cor- al polypes — true Atolls, or lagoon-reefs ; in accordance with Darwin's ingenious conjecture that at this part a large extent of the floor of the ocean forms, not an area of upheaval, but an area of subsidence. VIII. The South Sea, or Pacific If we compare that portion of the earth's surface now cov- ered with water with the aggregate area of the terra firma * Sir James Koss, Voyage in the Southern and Antarctic Regions, vol. i., p. 63-82. o 64 cosmos. (nearly* in the proportion of 2-7 to 1), we can not but be astonished, in a geological point of view, at the small number of volcanoes which still continue active in the oceanic region. The South Sea, the superficies of which is nearly one sixth greater than that of the whole terra firma of our planet — which in the equinoctial region, from the Archipelago of Galapagos to the Pellew Islands, is nearly two fifths of the whole circumference of the earth in breadth — exhibits fewer smoking volcanoes, fewer openings through which the inte- rior of the planet still continues in active communion with its atmospheric envelope than does the single island of Java. Mr. James Dana, the talented geologist of the great American exploring expedition (1838-1842), under the command of Charles Wilkes, basing his views on his own personal investi- gations, aided by a careful comparison of all previous reliable observations, and especially by a comprehensive examination of the different opinions on the forms, the distribution, and the axial direction of the island groups, on the character of the different kinds of rocks, and the periods of the subsidence and upheaval of extensive tracts of the floor of the ocean, has the indisputable merit of having shed a new light over the island world of the South Sea. In availing myself of his work, as well as of the admirable writings of Charles Dar- win, the geologist of Captain Fitzroy's expedition (1832- 1836), without always particularizing them, I trust that the high respect in which I have for so many years held those gentlemen will secure me from the phance of having my mo- tives misinterpreted. It is my intention to avoid altogether the divisional terms of Polynesia, Micronesia, Melanesia, and Malaisia,f which are * The result of Prof. Eigaud's levelings at Oxford, according to Hal- ley's old method. See my Asie Centrale, t. i., p. 189. f D'Urville, Toy. de la Corvette V Astrolabe, 1826-1829, Atlas, pi. i. — 1st. Polynesia is considered to contain the eastern portion of the South Sea (the Sandwich Islands, Tahiti, and the Tonga Archipelago ; and also New Zealand) ; 2. Micronesia and Melanesia form the west- ern portion of the South Sea; the former extends from Kauai, the westernmost island of the Sandwich group, to near Japan and the Philippines, and reaches south to the equator, comprehending the Ma- rians (Ladrones), the Carolinas and the Pellew Islands ; 3d. Melane- sia, so called from its dark-haired inhabitants, bordering on the Malai- sia to the northwest, embraces the small Archipelago of Viti, or Fee- jee, the New Hebrides and Solomon's Islands ; likewise the larger isl- ands of New Caledonia, New Britain, New Ireland, and New Guinea. The terms Oceania and Polynesia, often so contradictory in a geograph- ical point of view, are taken from Malte-Brun (1813) and from Lesson (1828), TRUE VOLCANOES. 365 not only extremely arbitrary, but founded on totally different principles drawn from the number and size, or the complex- ion and descent of the inhabitants, and to commence the enu- meration of the still active volcanoes of the South Sea with those which lie to the north of the equator. I shall after- ward proceed in the direction from east to west, to the isl- ands situated between the equator and the parallel of 30° south latitude. The numerous basaltic and trachytic islands, with their countless craters, formerly at different times erup- tive, must on no account be said to be indiscriminately scat- tered.* It is admitted, with respect to the greater number of them, that their upheaval has taken place on widely ex- tended fissures and submarine mountain chains, which run in directions governed by fixed laws of region and grouping, and which, just as we see in the continental mountain chains of Central Asia, and of the Caucasus, belong to different sys- tems; but the circumstances which govern the area over which at any one particular time the openings are simultane- ously active, probably depend, from the extremely limited number of such openings, on entirely local disturbances, to which the conducting fissures are subjected. The attempt to draw lines through three now simultaneous volcanoes, whose respective distances amount to between 2400 and 3000 geo- graphical miles asunder, without any intervening cases of eruption (I refer to three volcanoes now in a state of ignition * " The epithet scattered, as applied to the islands of the ocean (in the arrangement of the groups), conveys a very incorrect idea of their positions. There is a system in their arrangement as regular as in the mountain heights of a continent, and ranges of elevation are indicated as grand and extensive as any continent presents." Geology, by J. Dana, United States Exploring Expedition, under command of Charles Wilkes, vol. x. (1849), p. 12. Dana calculates that there are in the whole of the South Sea, exclusive of the small rock islands, about 350 basaltic or trachytic and 290 coral islands. He divides them into twenty-five groups, of which nineteen in the centre have the direction of their axis N. 50°— 60° W., and the remaining N. 20°— 30° E. It is particularly remarkable that these numerous islands, with a few ex- ceptions, such as the Sandwich Islands and New Zealand, all lie be- tween 23° 28' of north and south latitude, and that there is sueh an immense space devoid of islands eastward from the Sandwich and the Nukahiva groups as far as the American shores of Mexico and Peru. Dana likewise draws attention to a circumstance which forms a con- trast to the insignificant number of the now active volcanoes, namely, that if, as is probable, the Coral Islands, when lying between entirely basaltic islands, have likewise a basaltic foundation, the number of submarine and subaerial volcanic openings may be estimated at more than a thousand (p. 17 and 21). 366 cosmos. — Mouna Loa, with Kilauea on its eastern declivity ; the cone mountain of Tanna, in the New Hebrides ; and Assump- tion Island in the North Ladrones), would afford us no in- formation in regard to the general formation of volcanoes in the basin of the South Sea. The case is quite different if we limit ourselves to single groups of islands, and look back to remote, perhaps pre-historic, epochs when the numerous linearly-arranged, though now extinct, craters of the Ladrones (Marian Islands), the New Hebrides, and the Solomon's Isl- ands were active, but which certainly did not become gradu- ally extinguished in a direction either from southeast to north- west or from north to south. Though I here name only vol- canic island chains of the high seas, yet the Aleutes and oth- er true coastian islands are analogous to them. General con- clusions as to the direction of a cooling process are deceptive, as the state of the conducting medium must operate tempo- rarily upon it, according as it is open or interrupted. Mouna Loa, ascertained by the exact measurement* of the American exploring expedition under Captain Wilkes to be 13,758 feet in height, and consequently 1600 feet higher than the Peak of Teneriffe, is the largest volcano of the South Sea Islands, and the only one that still remains really active in the whole volcanic Archipelago of the Hawaii or Sandwich Islands. The summit craters, the largest of which is nearly 13,000 feet in diameter, exhibit in their ordinary state a solid bottom, composed of hardened lava and scoriae, out of which rise small cones of eruption, exhaling vapor. The summit openings are, on the whole, not very active, though in June, 1832, and in January, 1843, they emitted eruptions of sever- al weeks' duration, and even streams of lava of from 20 to 28 geographical miles in length, extending to the foot of Mouna Kea. The fall (inclination) of the perfectly connected flow- ing streamf was chiefly 6°, frequently 10°, 15°, and even 25°. The conformation of the Mouna Loa is very remarkable, from the circumstance of its having no cone of ashes, like the Peak of Teneriffe, Cotopaxi, and so many other volcanoes ; it is likewise almost entirely deficient in pumice, J though the * See Cosmos, vol. v., p. 238, note %. t Dana, Geology of the United States Explor. Exped., p. 208 and 210. X Dana, p. 193 and 201. The absence of cinder-cones is likewise very remarkable in those volcanoes of the Eifel which emit streams of lava. Reliable information, however, received by the missionary Dib- ble from the months of eye-witnesses, proves that an eruption of ashes may notwithstanding occur from the summit crater of Mouna Loa, for he was told that, during the war carried on by Kamehameha against TRUE VOLCANOES. 367 blackish-gray, and more trachytic than basaltic, lavas of the summit abound in feldspar. The extraordinary fluidity of the lavas of Moiina Loa, whether issuing from the summit crater (Mokua-weo-weo) or from the sea of lava (on the east- ern declivity of the volcano, at a height of only 39G9 feet above the sea), is testified by the glass threads, sometimes smooth and sometimes crisped or curled, which are dispersed by the wind all over the island. This hair glass, which is likewise thrown out by the volcano of Bourbon, is called Petes hair by the Hawaiians, after the tutelary goddess of the country. Dana has ably demonstrated that Mouna Loa is not the central volcano of the Sandwich Islands, and that Kilauea is not a solfatara.* The basin of Kilauea is 10,600 feet (about 2 1 geographical miles) across its long diameter, and 7460 feet across its shorter one. The steaming, bubbling, and foaming mass which forms the true lava pool does not, however, under ordinary circumstances, fill the whole of this cavity, but mere- ly a space whose long diameter measures 14,000 feet and its breadth 5000 feet. The descent to the edge of the crater is graduated. This great phenomenon produces a wonderful impression of silence and solemn repose. The approach of an eruption is not here indicated by earthquakes or subterra- nean noises, but merely by a sudden rising and falling of the surface of the lava, sometimes to the extent of from 300 or 400 feet up to the complete filling of the whole basin. If, disregarding the immense difference in size, we were to com- pare the gigantic basin of Kilauea with the small side craters (first described by Spallanzani) on the declivity of Stromboli, at four fifths of the height of the mountain, the summit of the insurgents in the year 1780, an eruption of hot ashes, accompanied by an earthquake, enveloped the surrounding country in the darkness of night (p. 183). On the volcanic glass threads (the hair of the god- dess Pele, who, before she went to settle at Hawaii, inhabited the now extinct volcano of Hale-a-Kala — or the House of the Sun — on the isl- and of Maui) see p. 179 and 199-200. * Dana, p. 205. " The term Solfatara is wholly misapplied. A sol- fatara is an area with streaming fissures and escaping sulphur vapors, and Avithout proper lava ejections ; while Kilauea is a vast crater with extensive lava ejections and no sulphur, except that of the sulphur banks, beyond what necessarily accompanies, as at Vesuvius, violent volcanic action." The structural frame of Kilauea, the mass of the great lava basin, consists also, not of beds of ashes or fragmentary rocks, but of horizontal layers of lava, arranged like limestone. Dana, p. 193. (Compare Strzelecki, Phijs. Descr. of New South Wales, 1845, p. 105-111.) 368 cosmos. which has no opening — that is to say, with basins of boiling lava of from 30 to 200 feet in diameter only — we must not foro-et that the fiery gulfs on the slope of Stromboli throw out ashes to a great height, and even pour out lava. Though the great lava lake of Kilauea (the lower and secondary cra- ter of the active volcano of Mouna Loa) sometimes threatens to overflow its margin, yet it never actually runs over so as to produce, true streams of lava. These occur by currents from below, through subterranean channels, and the forma- tion of new eruptive openings at a distance of from 16 to 20 geographical miles, consequently at points very much lower than the basin. After these eruptions, occasioned by the pressure of the immense mass of lava in the basin of Kilauea, the fluid surface sinks in the basin.* Of the two other high mountains of Hawaii, Mouna Kea and Mouna Hualalai, the former is, according to Captain Wilkes, 190 feet higher than Mouna Loa. It is a conical mountain on whose summit there no longer exists any term- inal crater, but only long extinct mounds of scoriae. Mouna Hualalai* is fully 10,000 feet high, and is still burning. In the year 1801 an eruption took place, during which the lava reached the sea on the western side. It is to the three colos- sal mountains of Loa, Kea, and Hualalai, which rose from the bottom of the sea, that the island of Hawaii owes its origin. In the accounts given of the numerous ascents of Mouna Loa, among which that of the expedition of Captain Wilkes was based on investigations of twenty-eight days' du- ration, mention is made of falls of snow with a degree of cold from 23 to VI \ Fahr. above zero, and of single patches of snow, which could be distinguished with the aid of the teles- * This remarkable sinking of the surface of the lava is confirmed by the relations of numerous voyagers, from Ellis, Stewart, and Doug- las to the meritorious Count Strzelecki, Wilkes's expedition and the remarkably observant missionary Coan. During the great eruption of June, 1 810, the connection of the rise of the lava in the Kilauea with the sudden inflammation of the crater of Arare, situated so far below it, was most decidedly shown. The disappearance of the lava poured forth from Arare, its renewed subterranean course, and final reappear- ance in greater quantity, do not quite admit of an absolute conclusion as to identity, because numerous lava-yielding longitudinal fissures opened simultaneously below the line of the floor of the Kilauea basin. It is likewise very worthy of observation, as bearing on the internal constitution of this singular volcano of Hawaii, that in June, 1832, both craters, that of tbe summit and that of Kilauea, poured out and occasioned streams of lava, so that thev were simultaneously active. (Compare Dana, p. 181, 188, 193, and 196.) TRUE VOLCANOES. 369 cope at the summit of the volcano, but nothing is ever said of perpetual snow.(*) I have already observed, in a former part of this work, that the Mouna Loa (13,758 feet) and the Mouna Kea (13,950 feet) arc respectively more than 1000 and 821 feet lower than the lowest limit of perpetual snow, as found by me in the continental mountains of Mexico under 19.1,0 latitude. On a small island the line of perpetual snow should lie somewhat lower, on account of the less elevated temperature of the lower strata of air ia the hottest season of the tropical zone, and on account of the greater quantity of water held in solution in the upper atmosphere. The volcanoes of Tafoa* and Amargura* in the Tonga group are both active, and the latter had a considerable erup- tion of lava on the 9th of July, 1847. | It is extremely re- markable, and is in entire accordance with the stories of the coral animals avoiding the shores of volcanoes, either at the time or shortly before, in a state of ignition, that the Tonga islands of Tafoa and the cone of Kao, which abound in coral reefs, are entirely destitute of those creatures.f Next follow the volcanoes of Tanna* and Ambrym,* the latter westward of Mallicollo, in the Archipelago of the New Hebrides. The volcano of Tanria, first described by Keinhold Forster, was found in a full state of eruption on Cook's dis- covery of the island in 1774. It has since remained con- stantly active. Its height being only 458 feet, it is one of the lowest fire-emitting cones, along with the volcano of Mendaiia, hereafter to be noticed, and the Japanese volcano of Kosima. There is a great quantity of pumice on Mal- licollo. Matthew's Rock,* a very small smoking rock island, about 1183 feet high, the eruption of which was observed by D'Ur- ville in January, 1828. It lies eastward of the southern point of New Caledonia. The volcano of Tinakoro,* in the group of Vanikoro or Santa Cruz. In the same Archipelago of Santa Cruz, fully 80 geograph- ical miles N.N.W. of Tinakoro, the volcano* seen by Men- dana so early as 1595 rises out of the sea to a height of about 213 feet (lat. 10° 23' S.). Its eruptions have sometimes (*) Wilkes, p. 114, 140, and 157 ; Dana, p. 221. From the perpetu- al transmutation of the r and /, Mauna Loa, is often written lioa, and Kilauea, Kirauea. t Dana, p. 25 and 138. X Dana, Geology of the, United States Exploring Expecl, p. 138. (Sed Darwin, Structure of Coral Reefs, p. GO.) ' Q2 370 cosmos. been periodical, occurring every ten minutes, and at other times, as on the occasion of the expedition of D'Erltrecas- teaux, the crater itself and the column of vapor were undis- tin»uishable from each other. In the Solomon's group the volcano of the island of Se- sarga* is in a state of ignition. On the coast of Guadalca- nal*, in this neighborhood, and therefore also at the southeast end of the long range of islands toward the Vanikoro or Santa Cruz group, volcanic eruptive action has likewise been observed. In the Ladrones, or Marian Islands, at the north end of the range, which seems to have been upheaved from a me- ridian fissure, Guguan,* Pagon,* and the Volcan grande of Asuncion, are said to be still in a state of activity. The direction of the coasts of the small continent of New Holland, and particularly the deviation from that direction seen in the east coast in 25° south latitude (between Cape Hervey and Moreton Bay), seem to be reflected in the zone of the neighboring eastern islands. The great southern isl- and of New Zealand, and the Kermadec and Tonga groups, stretch from the southwest to the northeast; while, on the other hand, the northern portion of the north island of New Zealand (from the Bay of Plenty to Cape Oton), New Cale- donia and New Guinea, the New Hebrides, the Solomon's Isles, New Ireland, and New Britain, run in a direction from S.E. to N.W., chiefly N. 48° W. Leopold von Buchf) first drew attention to this relation between continental masses and neighboring islands in the Greek Archipelago and the Australian Coral Sea. The islands of the latter sea, too, are not deficient, as both Forster (Cook's companion) and La Billardiere formerly observed, in granite and mica-slate, the quartzose rocks formerly called primeval. Dana has like- wise collected them on the northern island of New Zealand, to the west of Tipuna, in the Bay of Islands.! New Holland exhibits only on its southern extremity (Aus- tralia Felix), at the foot and to the south of the Grampian Mountains, fresh traces of former igneous action, for we learn from Dana that a number of volcanic cones and deposits of (*) Leop. von Buch, Description Phys. des lies Canaries, 1836,' p. 893 and 403-405. f See Dana, Ibid, 438-446, and on the fresh traces of ancient vol- canic action in New Holland, p. 453 and 457 ; also on the many basaltic columns in New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land, p. 495-510; and E. de Strzelecki, Phys. Descr. of New South Wales, p. 112. TRUE VOLCANOES. 371 lava, are found to the northwest of Tort Philip, as also in the direction of the Murray River (Dana, p. 453). On New Britain* there are at least three cones on the west coast, which have been observed within 1 lie historical era, by Tasman, Dampier, Cartaret, and La Billardiere, in a state of ignition and throwing out lava. There are two active volcanoes in New Guinea,* on the northeastern coast, opposite New Britain and the Admiralty Islands, which abound in obsidian. In New Zealand, of which the geology of the north island at least has been illustrated by the important work of Ernst Dieffenbach, and the admirable investigations of Dana, ba- saltic and trachytic rocks at various points break through the generally diffused Plutonic and sedimentary rocks. This example is the case in a very limited area near the Bay of Islands (lat. 35° 2')? where the ash-cones, crowded with dis- tinct craters, Turoto and Poerua rise ; and again, more to the southeast (between 37^° and 39^° lat.), where the vol- canic floor runs quite across the centre of the north island, a distance of more than 1G0 geographical miles from northeast to southwest, from the Bay of Plenty, on the east, to Cape Egmont, on the west. This zone of volcanic action here traverses (as we have already seen it to do on a much larger scale in the Mexican Continent), in a diagonal fissure from northeast to southwest, the interior chain of mountains which runs lengthwise in a north and south direction, and which seems to give its form to the whole island. On the ridge of this chain stand, as it were, at the points of intersection, the lofty cone of Tongariro^ (6198), whose crater is found on the top of the ash-cone, Bidwill, and, somewhat more to the south, Ruapahu (9006 feet). The northeast end of the zone is formed in the Bay of Plenty (lat. 38^) by a constantly smoking solfatara, the island volcano of Puhia-i-wakati(*)* (White Island). Next follow to the southwest, on the shore itself, the extinct volcano of Putawaki (Mount Edgecombe), 8838 feet high, probably the highest snowy mountain on New Zealand ; and in the interior, between Mount Edgecombe and the still burning Tongariro,* which has poured forth some streams of lava, a lengthened chain of lakes, partly consist- ing of boiling water. The lake of Taupo, which is surround- (*) Ernst Dieffenbach, Travels in New Zealand, 1843, vol. i., p. 337, 355, and 401. Dieffenbach calls White Island "a smoking solfatara, but still in volcanic activity" (p. 358 and 407), and on the chart, " in continual ignition." 372 cosmos. ed by beautiful glistening leucite and sanidine sand, as well as by mounds of pumice, is nearly 24 geographical miles long, and lies in the centre of the north island of New Zealand, at an elevation, according to Dieffenbach, of 1337 feet above the surface of the sea. The ground for two English square miles round is entirely covered with solfataras, vapor holes, and thermal springs, the latter of which form, as at the Gey- ser, in Iceland, a variety of silicious precipitates. (*) West- ward of Tongariro,* the chief seat of volcanic action, whose crater still ejects vapors and pumice-stone ashes, and at a dis- tance of only sixteen miles from the western shore, rises the volcano of Taranaki (Mount Egmont), 8838 feet high, which was first ascended and measured by Dr. Ernst Dieffenbach in November, 1840. The summit of the cone, which in its out- line more resembles Tolima than Cotopaxi, terminates in a plain, out of which rises a steep ash-cone. No traces of pres- ent activity, such as are seen on the volcano of the White Island* and on Tongariro,* are visible, nor any connected stream of lava. The substance composed of very thin scales, and having a ringing sound, which is seen projecting with sharp points like fish-bones, from among the scoriae, in the same manner as on one side of the Peak of Teneriffe, resem- bles porphyritic schist, or clink-stone. A narrow, long-extended, uninterrupted accumulation of island groups, erupted from northwestern fissures, such as New Caledonia and New Guinea, the New Hebrides and Solomon's Island, Pitcairn, Tahiti, and the Paumotu Islands, traverses the great Ocean in the Southern hemisphere in a direction from west to east, for a length of 5400 geograph- ical miles, between the parallels of latitude of 12° and 27°, from the meridian of the east coast of Australia as far as Easter Island, and the rock of Sala y Gomez. The western portions of this crowd of islands (New Britain,* the New Hebrides,* Vanikoro* in the Archipelago of Santa Cruz, and the Tonga group*) exhibit at the present time, in the middle of the nineteenth century, inflammation and igneous action. New Caledonia, though surrounded by basaltic and other volcanic islands, has nevertheless nothing but Plutonic rock,f as is the case with Santa Mariaf in the Azores, according to (*) Dana, p. 445-448 ; Dieffenbach, vol. i., p. 331, 339-341 and 397. On Mount Egmont, see vol i., p. 131-157. f Darwin, Volcanic Islands, p. 125 ; Dana, p. 140. j L. de Buch, Descr. des I. Can., p. 365. On the three islands here named, however, phonolite and basaltic rock are also found along with TRUE VOLCANOES. 373 Leopold von Bach, ami with Flores and Graciosa, according to Count Bedemar. It is this absence of volcanic action in New Caledonia, where sedimentary formations with scams of coal have lately been discovered, that the great develop- ment of living coral reefs on its shores is ascribed. The Archipelago of the Viti, or Fcejee Islands, is at once basaltic and trachytic, though distinguished only by hot springs in the Savu Bay on Vanua Lebu.* The Samoa group (Navi- gator's Islands), northeast of the Fecjee Islands, and nearly north of the still active Tonga Archipelago, is likewise ba- saltic, and is moreover characterized by a countless number of eruption craters linearly arranged, which are surrounded by tufa-beds with pieces of coral baked into them. The Peak of Tafua, on the island of Upolu, one of the Samoa group, presents a remarkable degree of geognostic interest. It must not, however, be confounded with the still enkindled Peak of Tafua, south of Amargura, in the Tonga Archipelago. The Peak of Tafua (2138 feet), which Dana first f ascended and measured, has a large crater entirely filled with a thick for- est, and crowned by a regularly rounded ash-cone. There is here no trace of any stream of lava ; yet on the conical mount- ain of Apia (2576 feet), which is likewise on Upolu, as well as on the Peak of Fao (3197 feet), we meet with fields of scoriaceous lava (Malpais of the Spaniards), the surface of which is, as it were, crimped, and often twisted like a rope. The lava-fields of Apia contain narrow subterranean cavities. Tahiti, in the centre of the Society Islands, far more tra- chytic than basaltic, exhibits, strictly speaking, only the ruins of its former volcanic frame-work, and it is difficult to trace the original form of the volcano in those enormous masses, looking like ramparts and chevaux-de-frise, with perpendicu- lar precipices of several thousand feet in depth. Of its two highest summits, Aorai and Orohena, the former was first ascended and investigated by that profound geologist Dana. J The trachytic mountain, Orohena, is said to equal -ZEtna in height. Thus, next to the active group of the Sandwich Isl- ands, Tahiti contains the highest rock of eruption in the whole range of the ocean between the continents of America Plutonic and sedimentary strata. But these rocks may have made their appearance above the surface of the sea on the first volcanic up- heaval of the island from the bed of the ocean. No traces are said to have been found of fiery eruptions or of extinct volcanoes. * Dana, p. 313-3*0. t Dana, p. 312, 318, 320, and 323. X Leop. von Buch, p. 383 ; Darwin, Vole. is/., p. 25 ; Darwin, Coral Reefs, p. 13,8 ; Dana, p. 28G-305 and 3G4. 374 coSxMos. and Asia. There is a feldspathic rock on the small islands of Borabora and Maurua, near Tahiti, designated by late travelers with the name of syenite, and by Ellis in his Poly- nesian researches described as a granitic aggregate of feldspar and quartz, which, on account of the breaking out of porous, scoriaceous basalt in the immediate neighborhood, merits a much more complete mineralogical investigation. Extinct craters and lava streams are not now to be met with on the Society Islands. The question occurs : Are the craters on the mountain tops destroyed; or did the high and ancient structures, now riven and transformed, continue closed at the top like a dome, while the veins of basalt and trachyte poured immediately forth from fissures in the earth, as has probably been the case at many other points of the sea's bottom? Ex- tremes of great viscidity or great fluidity in the matter poured out, as well as the varying width or narrowness of the fis- sures through which the effusion takes place, modify the shapes of the self-forming volcanic mountain strata, and, where fric- tion produces what is called ashes and fragmentary subdivis- ion, give rise to small and for the most part transitory cones of ejection, which are not to be confounded with the great terminal cinder-cones of the permanent structural frames. Close by the Society Islands, in an easterly direction, are the Low Islands, or Paumotu. These are merely coral isl- ands, with the remarkable exception of the small basaltic group of Gambier's and Pitcairn's Islands.* Volcanic rock, similar to the latter, is also found in the same parallel (be- tween 25° and 27° south latitude), 1260 geographical miles farther to the east, in the Easter Island (Waihu), and proba- bly also 240 miles farther east, in the rocks Sala y Gomez. On Waihu, where the loftiest conical peaks are scarcely a thousand feet high, Captain Beechey remarked a range of craters, none of which appeared, however, to be burning. In the extreme east, toward the New Continent, the range of the South Sea Island terminates with one of the most act- ive of all island groups, the Archipelago of Galapagos, com- posed of five great islands. Scarcely any where else, on a small space of barely 120 or 140 geographical miles in diam- eter, has such a countless number of conical mountains and extinct craters (the traces of former communication between the interior of the earth and the atmosphere) remained visi- ble. Darwin calculates the number of the craters at nearly two thousand. When that talented observer visited the Gala- * Dana, p. 137. TRUE VOLCANOES. 375 pagos in the expedition of the Beagle, under Captain Fitzroy, two of the craters were simultaneously in a state of igneous eruption. On all the islands, streams of a very fluid lava may be seen which have forked oil* into different channels, and have often run into the sea. Almost all are rich in augite and olivin ; some, which arc more of a trachytic character, arc said to contain albite* in large crystals. It would be well, in the perfection to which mincralogical sci- ence is now brought, to institute investigations for the pur- pose of discovering whether oligoclase is not contained in these porphyritic trachytes, as at Tcneriffe, Popocatepetl, and Chimborazo, or else labradorite, as at JEtna and tttromboli. Pumice is entirely wanting on the Galapagos, as at Vesuvius, where, although it may be present, it is not produced, nor is hornblende any where mentioned to have been found in them ; consequently the trachyte formation of Toluca, Ori- zaba, and some of the volcanoes of Java, from which Dr. Junghuhn has sent me some well-selected solid pieces of lava for examination by Gustav Eose, does not prevail here. On the largest and most westerly island of the Galapagos group, Albemarle, the cone mountains are ranged in a line, and con- sequently on fissures. Their greatest height, however, reaches only to 4636 feet. The Western Bay, in which the Peak of Narborough, so violently inflamed in 1825, rises in the form of an island, is described by Leopold von Buch| as a crater of upheaval, and compared to Santorino, Many margins of craters on the Galapagos are formed of beds of tufa, which slope off in every direction. It is a very remarkable circum- stance, seeming to indicate the simultaneous operation of some great and wide-spread catastrophe, that the margins of all the craters are disrupted or entirely destroyed toward the south. A part of what in the older descriptions is called tufa, consists of palagonite beds, exactly similar to those of Iceland and Italy, as Bunsen has ascertained by an exact * Darwin, Vole. Isl, p. 104, 110-112, and 114. "When Darwin says so decidedly that there is no trachyte on the Galapagos, it is because he limits the term trachyte to the common feldspar, i. e., to orthoclase, or orthoclase and sanidine (glassy feldspar). The enigmatical frag- ments imbaked in the lava of the small and entirely basaltic crater of James Island contain no quartz, although they appear to rest on a Plutonic rock (see above, p. 3G7 et seq.). Several of the volcanic cone mountains on the Galapagos Islands, have at the orifice a narrow cyl- indrical, annular addition, exactly like what I saw on Cotopaxi ; "in some parts the ridge is surmounted by a wall or parapet perpendicular on both sides." Darwin, Vole. Isl., p. 83. t L. von Buch, p. 37G. 376 cosmos. analysis of the tufas of Chatham Island. (*) This island, the most easterly of the whole group, and whose situation is fixed by careful astronomical observations by Captain Beechey, is, according to my determination of the longitude of the city of Quito (78° 44/ 8"), and according to Acosta's Mapa de la Nueva Granada of 1849, 536 geographical miles distant from the Punta de S. Francisco. IX. Mexico. The six Mexican volcanoes, Tuxtla,* Orizaba, Popocate- petl,* Toluca, Jorullo,* and Colima,* four of which have been in a state of igneous activity within the historical era, were enumerated in a former place,! and described in their geog- nostically remarkable relative position. According to recent investigations by Gustav Rose, the formation of Chimborazo is repeated in the rock of Popocatepetl, or great volcano of Mexico. This rock also consists of oligoclase and augite. Even in the almost black beds of trachyte, resembling pitch- stone, the oliglocase is recognizable in very small acute-an- gled crystals. To this same Chimborazo and Teneriffe forma- tion belongs the volcano of Colima, which lies far to the west, near the shore of the South Sea. I have not myself seen this volcano, but we are indebted to Herr Pieschelj: (since the (*) Bunsen, in LeonharcP's Jahrb.fvr Mineralogie, 1851, s. 856 ; also in Poggend., Annalen der Physik, bd. lxxxiii., s. 223. f See above, p. 279-281. % See Pieschel, Ueber die Vulkane von Mexico, in the Zeitschrift fur vllrjem. Erdkuncle, bd. vi., 1856, s. 86 and 489-532. The assertion there made (p. 86), "that never mortal has ascended the steep summit of the Pico del Fraile," that is to say, the highest peak of the volcano of Toluca, has been confuted by my barometrical measurement made upon that very summit (which is, by-the-way, scarcely 10 feet in width) on the 29th of September, 1803, and published first in 1807, and again recently by Dr. Gumprecht in the same volume of the journal above referred to (p. 489). The doubt raised on this point was the more singular, as it was from this very summit of the Pico del Fraile, whose tower-like sides are certainly not very easy to climb, and at a height scarcely 600 feet less than that of Mont Blanc, that I struck off the masses of trachyte which are hollowed out by the lightning, and which are glazed on the inside like vitreous tubes. An essay was inserted so early as 1819 by Gilbert, in volume lx. of his Annales der Physik, (s. 261), on the specimens placed by me in the Berlin Museum, as well as in several Parisian collections (see also Annales de Chimie et de Phy- sique, t. xix., 1822, p. 298). In some places the lightning has bored such regular cylindrical tubes (as much as three inches in length), that they can be looked through from end to end, and in those cases the rock surrounding the openings is likewise vitrified. I have also brought with me pieces of trachyte in my collections, in which the whole sur- TRUE VOLCANOES. 377 spring of 1855) for a very instructive view of the different kinds of rocks collected by him, as well as for his interesting geological not iocs on the volcanoes of the whole Mexican highlands, all of which he has personally visited. The vol- cano of Toluca, whose highest summit (the Pico del Fraile), though narrow and difficult to climb, I ascended on the 29th of September, 1803, and found barometrically to be 15,1GG feet high, has a totally different mincralogical composition from the still active Popocatepetl and the igneous mountain of Colima ; this must not, however, be confounded with an- other still higher summit, called the Snow mountain. The volcano of Toluca consists, like the Peak of Orizaba, the Puy de Chaumont in the Auvergne and .iEgina, of a combination of oligoclase and hornblende. From this brief sketch it will be seen, and it is well deserving of notice, that in the long range of volcanoes which extend from ocean to ocean there are not two immediately succeeding each other which are of similar mincralogical composition. X. The Northwestern Districts of America (northward of the parallel of Rio Gila.) In the section which treats of the volcanic action on the eastern Asiatic Islands,* particular notice has been drawn to the bow-like curve in the direction of the fissure of up- heaval from which the Aleutian Islands have risen, and which manifests an immediate connection between the Asiatic and American continents — between the two volcanic peninsulas Kamtschatka and Aliaska. At this point is the outlet, or rather the northern boundary, of a mighty gulf of the Pacific Ocean, which, from the 150 degrees of longitude embraced by it under the equator, narrows itself down between the term- inal points of these two peninsulas to 37° of longitude. On the American continent, near the sea-shore, a number of more face is vitrified without any tube-like perforation, as is the case at the little Ararat and at Mont Blanc. Herr Pieschel first ascended the doublc-pcaked volcano of Colima, in October, 1852, and reached the crater, from which he then saw nothing but sulphureted-hydrogen va- por rising in a cloud ; but Sonneschmid, who vainly attempted to as- cend Colima, in February, 1796, gives an account of an immense ejec- tion of ashes in the year" 1770. In the month of March, 1795, on the other hand, red-hot scoria; were visibly thrown out in a column of fire at night. " To the northwest of the volcano of Colima a volcanic branch fissure runs along the shore of the South Sea. Extinct craters and ancient lava streams are recognized in what are called the Volca- noes of Ahuacatlan (on the road from Guadalaxara to San Bias) and Tepic." (Pieschel, Ibid., p. 529.) * See above, p. 344-349. 3 378 cosmos. or less active volcanoes has become known to mariners within the last seventy or eighty years, but this group lay hitherto, as it were, isolated, and unconnected with the volcanic range of the Mexican tropical region, or with the volcanoes which were believed to exist on the peninsula of California. If we include the range of extinct trachytic cones as intermediate links, we may be said to have obtained insight into their im portant geological connection over a gap of more than 28 of latitude, between Durango and the new Washington terri- tory, northward of West Oregon. The study of the physical condition of the earth owes this important step in advance to the scientifically well-prepared expeditions which the govern- ment of the United States has fitted out for the discovery of the best road from the plains of the Mississippi to the shores of the South Sea. All the departments of natural history have derived advantage from those undertakings. Great tracts of country have been found, in the now explored terra incognita of this intermediate space, from very near the Rocky Mountains on their eastern slope, to a great distance beyond their western descent, covered with evidences of extinct or still active volcanoes (as, for instance, in the Cascade Mount- ains). Thus, 'setting out from New Zealand, and ascending first a long way to the northwest through New Guinea, the Sunda Islands, the Philippines, and Eastern Asia, to the Aleutians; and then descending toward the south through the northwestern, the Mexican, the Central American, and South American territories to the terminating point of Chili, we find the entire cwcuit of the basin of the Pacific Ocean, throughout an extent of 26,400 geographical miles, sur- rounded by a range of recognizable memorials of volcanic action. Without entering into the details of exact geograph- ical bearings and of the perfected nomenclature, a cosmical view such as this could never have been obtained. Of the circuit of the great oceanic* basin here indicated (or, as there is but one united mass of water over the whole earth, we ought rather to say the circumference of the larg- est of those portions of it which penetrate between conti- nents) it remains for us now to describe the tract of country which extends from Eio Gila to Norton's and Kotzebue's * The term ' ' Grand Ocean, " used to designate the basin of the South Sea by that learned geographer, my friend Contrc-amiral cle Fleurieu, the editor of the Introduction Historiqiie au Voyage de Mar- chand, confounds the whole with a part, and consequently leads to misapprehension. TRUE VOLCANOES. 379 Sounds. Analogies drawn in Europe from the Pyrenees or the Alpine chain, and in South America from the Cordilleras of the Andes, from South Chili to the fifth degree of north latitude in New Granada, supported by fanciful delineations in maps, have propagated, the erroneous opinion that the Mexican mountains, or at least their highest ridge, can be traced along like a wall, under the name of the Sierra Madre, from southeast to northwest. But though the mountainous part of Mexico is a mighty swelling of the land running con- nectedly in the direction above stated between two seas to the height of from 5000 to 7000 feet, yet on the top of this, in the same way as in the Caucasus and in Central Asia, still loftier ranges of mountains, running in partial and very various directions, rise to about 15,000 and 17,800 feet. The arrangement of these partial groups, erupted from fis- sures not parallel to each other, is in its bearings for the most part independent of the ideal axis which may be drawn through the entire swell of the undulating flattened ridge. These remarkable features in the formation of the soil give rise to a deception which is strengthened by the pictorial effect of the beautiful country. The colossal mountains cov- ered with perpetual snow, seem, as it were, to rise out of a plain. The spectator confounds the ridge of the soft swell- ing land, the elevated plain, with the plain of the low lands ; and it is only from the change of climate, the lowering of the temperature, under the same degree of latitude, that he is re- minded of the height to wrhich he has ascended. The fissure of upheaval, frequently before mentioned, of the volcano of Anahuac (running in a direction from east to west between 19° and 19^° lat.) intersects* the general axis of the swell- ing land almost at right angles. The conformation here described of a considerable portion of the surface of the earth, which only began to be estab- lished by careful measurements since the year 1853, must not be confounded with those swellings of the soil which are met with inclosed between two mountain chains, wdiich bound them, as it were, like walls — as in Bolivia, at the Lake of Titicaca; and in Central Asia, between the Himalaya and Ivuen-liin. The former of these, the South American eleva- tion, which at the same time forms the bottom of a valley, * On the axes of the greatest elevations and of the volcanoes in the tropical zone of Mexico, see above, p. 2(54 and .'500. Compare also Essai Pol sur laNouv. J£sj>., t. i., p. 257-2G8, t. ii., p. 173; Views of Nature, p. 37. 380 cosmos. is on an average, according to Pentland, 12,847 feet above the level of the sea ; the latter, or Thibetian, according to Captain Henry Strachey, Joseph Hooker, and Thomas Thom- son, is upward of 14,996. The wish expressed by me half a century since, in my circumstantial "Analyse de V Atlas Gco- graphique et Physique deRoyaume de laNouvelleEspange (§ xiv.), that my profile of the elevated plain between Mexico and Gu- anaxuato might be continued by measurements over Durango and Chihuahua as far as Santa Fe del Nuevo Mexico, is now completely realized. The length of way, reckoning only one fourth for the inflections, amounts to more than 1200 geo- graphical miles, and the characteristic feature of this so long unobserved configuration of the earth (the soft undulation of the swelling, and its breadth in a transverse section, amount- ing sometimes to 240 or 280 geographical miles) is manifest- ed by the fact that the distance (from Mexico to Santa Fe), comprising a difference of parallels of fully 16° 20' about the same as that from Stockholm to Florence, is traveled over in four-wheeled carriages, on the ridge of the table-land, with- out the advantage of artificially prepared roads. The possi- bility of such a medium of intercourse was known to the Spaniards so early as the end of the 16th century, when the viceroy, the Conde de Monterey,* planned the first settlements from Zacatecas. In confirmation of what has been stated in a general way respecting the relative heights between the capital of Mexico and Santa Fe del Nuevo Mexico, I here insert the chief ele- ments of the barometrical leveling, which have been com- pleted from 1803 to 1847. I take them in the direction from north to south, so that the most northerly, placed at the top of the list, may correspond more readily with the bearings of our charts :| * By Juan de Oiiate, 1594. Memoir of a Tour to Northern Mexico in 1846 and 1817, by Dr. Wislizenus. On the influence of the con- figuration of the soil (the wonderful extent of the table-land) on the internal commerce and the intercourse of the tropical zone with the north, when once civic order, legal freedom, and industry increase in these parts, see Essai Pol., t. iv., p. 38, and Dana, p. 612. t In this survey of the elevations of the soil between Mexico and Santa Fe del Neuvo Mexico, as well as in the similar but more imper- fect table which I have given in the Views of Nature, p. 208, the letters Ws, Bt, and Ht, attached to the numerals, denote the names of the observer. Thus, Ws stands for Dr. Wislizenus, editor of the very in- structive and scientific Memoir of a Tour to Northern Mexico, connected with Colonel Doniphan's Expedition in 1846 and 1847 (Washington, 1848) ; Bt the Chief Counselor of Mines, Burkart ; and Ht for my- TRUE VOLCANOES. 381 Santa F6 del Nucvo Mexico (Iat. 35° 41'), height 7017 feet, Wb. self. Ar the time when I was occupied, from March, 1803, to Febru- ary, 1804, with the astronomical determinations of places in the trop- ical pari of New Spain, and ventured, from the materials I could dis- cover and examine, to design a map of that country, of which my re- spected friend Thomas Jefferson, then President of the United States, during my resilience in Washington, caused a copy to he made, there exist ed as yet in the interior of the country, on the road to Santa Fe, no determinations of latitude north of Durango (hit. 24° 25'). Ac- cording to the two manuscript journals of the engineers Rivera, Lafo- ra, and Masearo, of the years 172-4 and 1705, discovered by me in the archives of Mexico, and which contained directions of the compass and computed partial distances, a careful calculation showed for the im- portant station of Santa Fe, according to Don Pedro de Rivera, lat. 36° 12', and long. 105° 52' 30". (See my Atlas Geogr. etPhys. du Mex- ique, tab. G, and Essui Pol., t. i., p. 75-82.) I took the precaution, in the analysis of my map, to note this result as a very uncertain one, seeing that in the valuations of the distances, as well as in the directions of the compass, uncorrected for the magnetic variation, and unaided by objects in treeless plains, destitute of human habitations, over an ex- tent of more than 1200 geographical miles, all the errors can not be compensated (t. i., p. 127-131). It happens that the result here given, as compared with the most recent astronomical observations, turns out to be much more erroneous in the latitude than in the longitude — being in the former about thirty-one, and in the latter scarcely twen- ty-three minutes. I was likewise fortunate enough to determine, near- ly correctly, the geographical position of the Lake Timpanogos, now generally called the Great Salt Lake, while the name of Timpanogos is now only applied to the river which falls into the little Utah Lake, a fresh-water lake. In the language of the Utah Indians a river is called og-wahbe, and by contraction ogo alone ; timpan means rock, so that Timpan-ogo signifies rock-river (Fremont, Explor. Exped., 1815, p. 273). Buschmann explains the word thnpa as derived from the Mexi- can tetl, stone, while in pa he finds a substantive termination of the native North-Mexican languages; to ogo he attributes the general signification of water : see his work, Die Spuren der Aztekischen Spracke im nordlichen Mexico, s. 354-356 and 351. Compare Expedition to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, by Captain Howard Stansbury, 1852, p. 300, and Humboldt, Views of Nature, p. 20G. My map gives to the Montagues de Sel gemme, somewhat to the east of the Laguna de Timpanogos, lat. 40° 7', long. Ill0 48' 30"; consequently my first conjecture differs 39 minutes in latitude, and 17 in longitude. The most recent determinations of the position of Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico, with which I am acquainted, are, 1st, by Lieutenant Emory (184G), from numerous astronomical observations, lat. 35° 44' 6"; and, 2d, by Gregg and Dr. Wislizenus (1848), perhaps in another locality, 35° 41' 6". The longitude, according to Emory, is 7h 4' 18", in time from Greenwich, and therefore 106° 5' in the equatorial cir- cle ; according to Wislizenus, 108° 22' from Paris (New Mexico and California, by Emory, Document No. 41, p. 36; Wish, p. 29). Most maps err in making the latitudes of places in the neighborhood of Santa Fe too far to the north. The height of the city of Santa Fe' 382 cosmos. Albuquerque* (lat. 35° 80, height 4849 feet, Ws. Paso del Norte, j on the Eio Grande del Norte (lat. 29° 480, height 3790 feet, Ws. Chihuahua (lat. 28° 320, 4638 feet? Ws- Cosiquiriachi, 6273 feet, Ws. Mapimi, in the Bolson de Mapimi (lat. 25° 540, 4782 feet, Ws. Parras (lat. 25° 320, 4986 feet, Ws. Saltillo (lat. 25° 100, 5240 feet, Ws. Durango (lat. 24° 250, 6849 feet, according to Oteiza. Fresnillo (lat, 23° 100, 7244 feet, Bt. Zacatecas (lat. 22° 500, 9012 feet, Bt. San Luis Potosi (lat. 22° 80, 6090 feet, Bt. Aguas Calientes (lat. 21° 530, 6261 feet, Bt. Lagos (lat. 21° 200, 637G feet> Bt- Villa de Leon (lat. 21° 70, 6134 feet, Bt. * Silao, 5911 feet, Bt. Guanaxuato (lat. 21° 0' 15'0, 6836 feet, Ht. Salamanca (lat. 20° 400, 5?62 feet, Ht. Celaya (lat. 20° 380, 6017 feet, Ht. Queretaro (lat. 20° 36' 39"), 6363 feet, Ht. San Juan del Rio, in the state of Queretaro (lat. 20° 30')j 6490 feet, Ht. Tula (lat. 19° 57'), 6733 feet, Ht. Pachuca, 8140 feet, Ht. Moran, near Real del Monte, 8511 feet, Ht. Huehuetoca, at the northern extremity of the great plain of Mexico (lat. 19° 480, 7533 feet, Ht. Mexico (lat. 19° 25' 45'0, 7469 feet, Ht. Toluca (lat. 19° 160, 8825 feet, Ht. Venta de Chalco, at the southeastern extremity of the great plain of Puebla, 7712 feet, Ht. San Francisco Ocotlan, at the western extremity of the great plain of Puebla, 7680 feet, Ht. Cholula, at the foot of the ancient graduated Pyramid, (lat. 19° 2'), 6906 feet, Ht. above the level of the sea, according to Emory, is 6844 ; according to Wislizenus, fully 7046 feet (mean measurement 6950) ; it therefore resembles that of the Sphigen and Gotthard passes in the Swiss Alps. * The latitude of Albuquerque is taken from the beautiful special map, entitled Map of the Territory of New Mexico, by Kern, 1851. Its height, according to Emory (p. 166), is 4749 feet; according to Wislizenus (p. 122), 4858. t For the latitude of the Paso del Norte compare Wisliz., p. 125, Met. Tables 8-12, Aug., 1846. TRUE VOLCANOES. 383 La Pttebla tic los Angeles (lat. 19° 0' 15"), 7201 feet, Ht. (The village of Las Vigas marks the eastern extremity of the elevated plain of Anahnae, lat. 1(J° 37/; the height of the village is 7811 feet, lit.) Thus, though previous to the commencement of the 19th century, not a single altitude had been barometrically taken in the whole of New Spain, the hypsometrical and in most cases also astronomical observations for thirty-two places in the direction from north to south, in a zone of nearly 16-j° of latitude, between the town of Santa Fe and the capital of Mexico have been acomplished. We thus see that the surface of the wide elevated plain of Mexico assumes an undulating form, varying in the centre from 5850 to 7500 feet in height. The lowest portion of the road from Parras to Albuquerque is even 1066 feet higher than the highest point of Vesuvius. The Great though gentle* swellins; of the soil, whose hioli- est portion we have just surveyed, and which from south to north, from the tropical part to the parallels of 42° and 44°, so increase in extent from east to west that the Great Basin, westward of the great Salt Lake of the Mormons, has a di- ameter of upward of 340 geographical miles, with a mean elevation of nearly 5800 feet, differs very considerably from the rampart-like mountain chains by which it is surmounted. Our knowledge of this configuration is one of the chief points of Fremont's great hypsometrical investigations in the years 1842 and 1844. This swelling of the soil belongs to a dif- ferent epoch from that late upheaval which we call mountain chains and systems of varied direction. At the point where, about 32° lat., the mountain mass of Chihuahua, according to the present settlement of the boundaries, enters the western territory of the United States (in the provinces taken from Mexico), it begins to bear the not very definite title of the Sierra Madre. A decided bifurcation,"!" however, occurs in * Compare Fremont, Report of the Exploring Exped. in 1842, p. GO; Dana, Geology of the United States Expl. Exped., p. GL1-G13; and for South America, Alcido D'Orbigny, Voy. dans I'Amerique Mcrid., Atlas, pi. viii., De Geologie speciale, fig. 1. f For this bifurcation and the correct denomination of the east and west chains see the large special map of the Territory of New Mexico, by Parke and Kern, 1851 ; Edwin Johnson's Map of Railroads, 1854 ; John Bartlett's Map of the Boundary Commission, 1854; Explorations and Surveys from the Mississippi to the Pacific in 1853 and 1854, vol. i., p. 15 ; and, above all, the admirable and comprehensive work of Jules Marcou, Geologist of the Southern Pacific R. R. Survey, under the command of Lieutenant Whipple, entitled Resume explicaiifdune Carte Gcologique des Etats Unis et d'un Prqfil Gtologique allant de laVallce da 384 cosmos. the neighborhood of Albuquerque, and at this bifurcation the western chain still maintains the general title of the Sierra Madre, while the eastern branch has received from lat. 36° 10' forward (a little to the north of Santa Fe), from Amer- ican and English travelers, the equally ill-chosen, but now Mississippi mix cotes de V Ocean Pacifique, p. 113-116; also in the Bul- letin de la Societe Geologique de la France, 2e Serie, t. xii., p. 813. In the elongated valley closed by the Sierra Madre, or Kocky Mountains, lat. 35° 38^-°, the separate groups of which the western chain of the Sierra Madre and the eastern chain of the Rocky Mountains (Sierra de Sandia) consist, bear different names. To the first chain belong, reckoning from south to north, the Sierra de las Grullas, the S. de los Mimbres (Wislizenus, p. 22 and 5-4), Mount Taylor (lat. 35° 15'), the S. de Jemez, and the S. de San Juan ; in the eastern chain the Moro Peaks, or Sierra de la Sangre de Cristo, are distinguished from rhe Spanish Peaks (lat. 37° 32') and the northwesterly tending White Mountains, which close the elongated valley of Taos and Santa Fe. Professor Julius Frobel, whose examination of the volcanoes of Cen- tral America I have already noticed (Cosmos, above, p. 260), has with much ability elucidated the indefinite geographical appellation of Si- erra Madre on the older maps ; but he has at the same time, in a treat- ise entitled Remarks contributing to the Physical Geogrcqjhy of the North American Continent (9th Annual Report of the Smithsonian Institution, 1855, p. 272-281), given expression to a conjecture which, after having examined all the materials within my reach, I am unable to assent to, namely, that the Rocky Mountains are not to be regarded as a con- tinuation of the Mexican mountain range in the tropical zone of Ana- huac. Uninterrupted mountain chains, like those of the Apennines, the Swiss Jura, the Pyrenees, and a great part of the German Alps, certainly do not exist from the 19th to the 44th degrees of latitude, from Popocatepetl, in Anahuac, as far as to the north of Fremont's Peak, in the Rocky Mountains, in the direction from S.S.E. to N.N.W. ; but the immense swelling of the surface of the land, which goes on in- creasing in breadth toward the north and northwest, is continuous from tropical Mexico to Oregon, and on this swelling (or elevated plain), which is itself the great geognostic phenomenon, separate groups of mountains, running in often varying directions, rise over fissures which have been formed more recently and at different periods. These super- imposed groups of mountains, which, however, in the Rocky Mountains are for an extent of 8 degrees of latitude connected together almost like a rampart, and rendered visible to a great distance by conical mountains, chiefly trachytic, from 10,000 to 12,000 feet high, produce an impression on the mind of the traveler which is only the more pro- found from the circumstance that the elevated plateau which stretches far and wide around him assumes in his eyes the appearance of a plain of the level country. Though in reference to the Cordilleras of South America, a considerable part of which is known to me by personal in- spection, we speak of double and triple ranges (in fact, the Spanish expression Las Cordilleras de los Andes refers to such a disposition and partition of the chain), we must not forget that even here the direc- tion of the separate ranges of mountain groups, whether in long ridges or in consecutive domes, are by no means parallel, either to one an- other or to the direction of the entire swell of the land. TRUE VOLCANOES. 385 universally accepted title of the Kocky Mountains. The two chains form a Lengthened valley, in which Albuquerque, Santa hV, and Taos lie, and through which the I\io Grande del Norte tlows. In lat. 38-.V° this valley is closed by a chain running east and west for the space of 88 geographical miles, while the Rocky Mountains extend undivided in a meridional direction as far as lat. 41°. In this intermediate space rise, somewhat to the east, the Spanish Peaks — Pike's Peak (o800 feet), which has been beautifully delineated by Fremont, James's Peak (11,434 feet), and the three Park Mountains, all of which inclose three deep valleys, the lateral walls of which rise up, along with the eastern Long's Peak, or Big Horn, to a height of 90G0 and 11,191 feet.* On the eastern bound- ary, between Middle and North Park, the mountain chain all at once changes its direction, and runs from lat. 40^° to 44° for a distance of about 2G0 geographical miles from south- east to northwest. In this intermediate space lie the south Pass (7490 feet), a?id the famous Wind River Mountains, so singularly sharp pointed, together with Fremont's Peak (lat. 43° S7), which reaches the height of 13,567 feet. In the par- allel of 44°, in the neighborhood of the Three Tetons, where the northwesterly direction ceases, the meridian direction of the Kocky Mountains begins again, and continues about as far as Lewis and Clarke's Pass, which lies in lat. 47° 2', and * Fremont, Explor. Exped., p. 281-288. Pike's Peak, lat. 38° 50', delineated at p. 114 ; Long's Peak, 40° 15' ; ascent of Fremont's Peak (13,570 feet) p. 70. The Wind River Mountains take their name from the source of a tributary to the Big Horn River, whose waters unite with those of the Yellow Stone River, which falls into the Upper Mis- souri (lat. 47° 58', long. 103° C 30"). See the delineations of the Alpine range, rich in mica-slate and granite, p. 6G and 70. I have in all cases retained the English names given by the North American geographers, as their translation into a pure German nomenclature has often proved a rich source of confusion. To help the comparison of the direction and length of the meridian chain of the Ural, which, according to the careful investigations of my friend and traveling com- panion, Colonel Ernst Hofmann, takes a curve at the northern extrem- ity toward the east, and which, from the Truchmenian Mountain Airuk- Tagh (48J°) to the Sablja Mountains (65°), is fully 1020 geographical miles in length, with those of the Rocky Mountains, I would here re- mind the reader that the latter chain runs between the parallels of Pike's Peak and Lewis and Clarke's Pass, from 105° 9' 30" into 112° 9' 30" of longitude. The chain of the Ural, which, within the same space of 17 degrees of latitude, deviates little from the meridian of 59° 0'30", likewise changes its direction under the parallel of 65°, and attains under lat. 67£° the meridian of GG° 5' 30". Compare Ernst Hofmann, Der nordliche Ural und das Ki'i.stengehirge Eac-Choi, 1856, S. 191 and 297-305, with Humboldt, Asie Centrak (1843), t. i., p. 447. vQL. v.— r 386 cosmos. long. 112° 9' 30". Even at this point the chain of the Rocky Mountains maintains a considerable height (5977 feet) ; but, from the many deep river-beds in the direction of Flat- head River (Clarke's Fork), it soon decreases to a more regu- lar level. Clarke's Fork and Lewis or Snake River unite in forming the great Columbia River, which will one day prove an important channel for commerce. {Explorations for a Rail- road from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, made in 1853-1854, vol. i., p. 107.) As in Bolivia, the eastern chain of the Andes farthest re- moved from the sea, that of Sorata (21,287 feet) and Illimani (21,148 feet), furnish no volcano now in a state of ignition, so also, in the western parts of the United States, the vol- canic action on the coast chain of California and Oregon is at present very limited. The long chain of the Rocky Mount- ains, at a distance from the shores of the South Sea vary- ing from 480 to 800 geographical miles, without any trace of still existing volcanic action, nevertheless shows, like the eastern chain of Bolivia, in the vale of Yucay,* on both of its slopes volcanic rock, extinct craters, and even lavas in- closing obsidian, and beds of scoriae. In the chain of the Rocky Mountains which we have here geographically de- scribed, in accordance with the admirable observations of Fremont, Emory, Abbot, Wislizenus, Dana, and Jules Mar- cou, the latter, a distinguished geologist, reckons three groups of old volcanic rock on the two slopes. For the earliest no- tices of the vulcanicity of this district we are also indebted to the investigations made by Fremont since the years 1842 and 1843 {Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mount- ains in 1842, and to Oregon and North California in 1843-44, p. 164, 184, 187, and 193). On the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, on the south- western road from Bent's Fort, on the Arkansas River, to Santa Fe del Nuevo Mexico, lie two extinct volcanoes, the Raton Mountains! with Fisher's Peak, and the hill of El Cerrito, between Galisteo and Pera Blanca. The lavas of the former cover the whole district between the Upper Ar- kansas and the Canadian River. The Perperino and the volcanic scoriae, which are first met with even in the prairies, * See above, p. 279. f According to the road-rnap of 1855, attached to the general report of the Secretary of State, Jefferson Davis, the Raton Pass rises to an elevation of as much as 7180 feet above the level of the sea. Compare also Marcou, Resume explicate f d'une Carte Geol., 1855, p. 113. TRUE VOLCANOES. 387 on approaching the Rocky Mountains from the east, belong perhaps to old eruptions of the Cerrito, or of the stupendous Spanish Teaks (87° 32'). This easterly volcanic district of the isolated Baton Mountains forms an area of 80 geograph- ical miles in diameter; its centre lies nearly in latitude 3G° 50'. On the western slope most unmistakable evidences of an- cient volcanic action are discernible over a wider space, which has been traversed by the important expedition of Lieutenant Whipple throughout its whole breadth from east to west. This variously-shaped district, though interrupted for fully 120 geographical miles to the north of the Sierra dc Mogo» yon, is comprised (always on the authority of Marcou's geo- logical chart) between latitude 33° 48' and 35° 40', so that instances of eruption occur farther south than those of the Eaton Mountains. Its centre falls nearly in the parallel of Albuquerque. The area here designated divides into two sections, that of the crest of the Rocky Mountains nearer Mount Taylor, which terminates at the Sierra de Zuiii,* and the western section, called the Sierra de San Francisco. The conical mountain of Mount Taylor, 12,256 feet high, is sur- rounded by radiating lava streams, which, like Malpays still destitute of all vegetation, covered over with scoriae and pum- ice-stone, wind along to a distance of several miles, precisely as in the district around Hecla. About 72 geographical miles to the west of the present Pueblo de Zuiii rises the lofty vol- canic mountain of San Francisco itself. It has a peak which has been calculated more than 16,000 feet high, and stretches away southward from the Rio Colorado Chiquito, where, far- ther to the west, the Bill William Mountain, the Aztec Pass (6279 feet), and the Aquarius Mountains (8526 feet) follow. The volcanic rock does not terminate at the confluence of the Bill William Fork with the great Colorado, near the vil- lage of the Mohave Indians (lat. 34°, long. 114°); for, on * We must be careful to distinguish, to the west of the mountain ridge of Zuiii, where the Paso de Zuiii attains an elevation of as much as 7943 feet, between Zuiii viejo, the old dilapidated town delineated by Mollhausen on Whipple's expedition, and the still inhabited Pueblo de Zuiii. Forty geographical miles north of the latter, near Fort De- fiance, there still exists a very small and isolated volcanic district. Be- tween the village of Zuiii and the descent to the Rio Colorado Chiquito (Little Colorado) lies exposed the petrified forest which Mollhausen admirably delineated in 1853, and described in a treatise which he sent to the Geographical Society of Berlin. According to Marcou {Resume explic. dune Carte Gtol., p. 59), fossil trees and ferns are min- gled with the silicified coniferse. 388 cosmos. the other side of the Eio Colorado, at the Soda Lake, sev- eral extinct but still open craters of eruption may be recog- nized." Thus we find here, in the present New Mexico, in the vol- canic group commencing at the Sierra de San Francisco, and ending a little to the westward of the Rio Colorado Grande, or del Occidente (into which the Gila falls), over a distance of 180 geographical miles, the old volcanic district of the Auvergne and the Vivarais repeated, and a new and wide field opened up for geological investigation. Likewise on the western slope, but 540 geographical miles more to the north, lies the third ancient volcanic group of the Rocky Mountains, that of Fremont's Peak, and the two triple mountains, whose names, the Trois Tetons and the Three Buttes,! correspond well with their conical forms. The former lie more to the west than the latter, and conse- quently farther from the mountain chain. They exhibit wide-spread, black banks of lava, very much rent, and with a scorified surface. $ Parallel with the chain of the Rocky Mountains, some- times single and sometimes double, run several ranges in which their northern portion, from lat. 46° 12', are still the seat of volcanic action. First, from San Diego to Monterey (32^° to 36f °), there is the coast range, specially so called, a con- tinuation of the ridge of land on the peninsula of Old, or Lower, California; then, for the most part 80 geographical miles distant from the shore of the South Sea, the Sierra Nevada (de Alta California), from 36° to 40|° ; then again, commencing from the lofty Shasty Mountains, in the parallel of Trinidad Bay (lat. 41° 107), the Cascade range, which con- tains the highest still-ignited peak, and which, at a distance of 104 miles from the coast, extends from south to north far beyond the parallel of the Fuca Strait. Similar in their course to this latter chain (lat. 43°-4G°), but 280 miles dis- * All on the authority of the profiles of Marcou and the ahove-cited road-map of 1855. f The French appellations, introduced by the Canadian fur-hunters, are generally used in the country and on English maps. According to the most recent calculations, the relative positions of the extinct vol- canoes are as follows : Fremont's Peak, lat. 43° 5', long. 110° 9' 30"; Trois Tetons, lat. 43° 38', long. 110° 49' 30"; Three Buttes, lat. 43° 20', long. 112° 41' 30"; Fort Hall, lat, 43° 0', long. 111° 24' 30". X Lieutenant Mullan, on Volcanic Formation, in the Reports of Ex- phr. Surveys, vol. i. (1855), p. 330 and 348 ; see also Lambert's and Tinkham's Reports on the Three Buttes, Ibid., p. 1G7 and 226-230, and Jules Marcou, p. 115. TRUE VOLCANOES. 389 taut from the shore, arc the Blue Mountains,* which rise in their centre to a height of from 7000 to 8000 feet. In the central portion of Old California, a little farther to the north, near the eastern coast or bay in the neighborhood of the former Mission of San Igilacio, in about 28° north latitude, stands the extinct volcano known as the " Volcanes de las Yirgcnes," which I have given on my chart of Mexico. This volcano had its last eruption in 174G ; but we possess no re- liable information cither regarding it or any of the surround- ing districts. (See Vencgas, Noticia de la California, 1757, t. i., p. 27 ; and Duflot de Moras, Exploration de V Oregon et de la Ca/ifomie, 1844, t. i., p. 218 and 239.) Ancient volcanic rock has already been found in the coast range near the harbor of San Francisco, in the Monte del Diablo, which Dr. Trask investigated (3673 feet), and in the auriferous elongated valley of the Rio del Sacramento, in a trachytic crater now fallen in, called the Sacramento Butt, which Dana has delineated. Farther to the north, the Shasty, or Tshashtl Mountains, contain basaltic lavas, obsidian, of which the natives make arrow-heads, and the talc-like ser- pentine which makes its appearance on many points of the earth's surface, and appears to be closely allied to the vol- canic formations. But the true seat of the still-existing igne- ous action is the Cascade Mountain range, in which, covered with eternal snow, several of the peaks rise to the height of 16,000 feet. I shall here give a list of these, proceeding from south to north. The now ignited and more or less active volcanoes will be (on the plan heretofore adopted ; see above, p. 68, note *) distinguished by a star. The high conical mountains not so distinguished are probably partly extinct volcanoes, and partly unopened trachytic domes. Mount Pitt, or M'Laughlin (lat. 42° 300, a little to the west of Lake Tlamat ; height 9548 feet. Mount Jefferson, or Vancouver (lat. 44° 35'), a conical mountain. Mount Hood (lat. 45° 10'), decidedly an extinct volca- no, covered with cellular lava. According to Dana, this mountain, as well as Mount St. Helen's, which lies more northerly in the volcanic range, is between 15,000 and * Dana, p. 616-620 ; Blue Mountains, p. 649-651 ; Sacramento Butt, p. 630-643 ; Shasty Mountains, p. 614 ; Cascade range. On the Monte Diablo range, perforated by volcanic rock, see also John Trask, on the Geology of the Coast Mountains and the Sierra Nevada, 1854, p. 13-18. 890 COSMOS. 16,000 feet high, though somewhat lower(*) than the latter. Mount Hood was ascended in August, 1853, by Lake, Tra- vaillot, and Heller. Mount Swalahos, or Saddle Hill, S.S.E. of Astoria,! with a fallen in, extinct crater. Mount St. Helen's,*" north of the Columbia River (lat. 46° 12'); according to Dana, not less than 15,000 feet high.f Still burning, and always smoking from the sum- mit crater. A volcano of very beautiful, regular, conical form, and covered with perpetual snow. There was a great eruption on the 23d of November, 1842 ; which, ac- cording to Fremont, covered every thing to a great distance round with ashes and pumice. Mount Adams (lat. 46° 18'), almost exactly east of the volcano of St. Helen's, more than 112 geographical miles distant from the coast, if it be true that the last-named and still active mountain is only 76 of those miles inland. Mount Regnier,* also written Mount Rainier (lat. 46° 48'), E.S.E. of Fort Nisqually, on Puget's Sound, which is connected with the Fuca Strait. A burning volcano ; ac- cording to Edwin Johnson's road-map of 1854, 12,330 feet high. It experienced severe eruptions in 1841 and 1843. Mount Olympus (lat. 47° 50'), only 24 geographical miles south of the Strait of San Juan de Fuca, long so famous in the history of the South Sea discoveries. Mount Baker,* a large and still active volcano, situated in the territory of Washington (lat. 48° 48'), of great (un- measured ?) height (not yet determined), and regular conic- al form. Mount Brown (16,000 feet?) and, a little more to the east, Mount Hooker (16,750 feet?), are cited by Johnson (*) Dana (p. 6 15 and 6t0) estimated the volcano of St. Helen's at 16,000 feet, and Mount Hood, of course, under that height, while according to others Mount Hood is said to attain the great height of 18,316 feet, which is 2521 feet higher than the summit of Mont Blanc, and 4730 feet higher than Fremont's Peak, in the Rocky Mountains. Accord- ing to this estimate (Langrebe, Naturgeschichie der Vnlkane, bd. i., s. 497), Mount Hood would be only 571 feet lower than the volcano Co- topaxi ; on the other hand, Mount Hood, according to Dana, exceeds the highest summit of the Rocky Mountains by 2586 feet at the utmost. I am always desirous of drawing attention to variantes lectiones such as these. f Dana, Geoloqy of the United States Exploring Expedition, p. 640 and 643-645. X Variously estimated previously at 10,178 feet by Wilkes, and 13,535 feet by Simpson. TRUE VOLCANOES. 391 as lofty, old volcanic trachytic mountains, under lat. 52]°, and long. 117° 40' and 119° 40". They are, therefore, re- markable as being more than 300 geographical miles dis- tant from the coast. Mount Edgecombe,* on the small Lazarus Island, near Sitka (lat. 57° 37). Its violent igneous eruption in 170G lias already been mentioned by me see above, p. 255). Captain Lisiansky, who ascended it in the first years of the present century, found the volcano then unignited. Its height(*) reaches, according to Ernst Ilofmann, 3039 feet ; according to Lisiansky, 2801 feet. Near it are hot springs which issue from granite, as on the road from the Valles de Aragua to Portocabello. Mount Fairweather, or Cerro de Buen Tiempo ; accord- ing to Malaspina, 4489 metres, or 14,710 feet highf (lat. 58° 35'). Covered with pumice-stone and probably ignited up to a short time back, like Mount Elias. The volcano of Cook's Inlet (lat. 60° 8') ; according to Admiral Wrangel, 12,065 feet high, and considered by that intelligent mariner, as well as by Vancouver, to be an act- ive volcano.J Mount Elias (lat. G0° 17", long. 136° 10' 30''') ; accord- ing to Malaspina's manuscripts, which I found in the Ar- chives of Mexico, 5441 metres, or 17,854 feet ; according to Captain Denham's chart, from 1853 to 1856, the height is only 14,970 feet. What M'Clure, in his account of the Northwest Passage, calls the volcano of Franklin's Bay (lat. 69° 57', long. 127°), eastward of the mouth of the Mackenzie River, seems to be a kind of earth-Jire, or salses, throwing out hot, sulphurous vapors. An eye-witness, the missionary Miertsching, inter- preter to the expedition on board the ship Investigator, found from thirty to forty columns of smoke rising from fissures in the earth, or from small conical mounds of clays of various colors. The sulphurous odor was so strong that it was scarce- ly possible to approach the columns of smoke within a dis- tance of twelve paces. No rock or other solid masses could (*) Karsten's Archiv.fur Mineralogie, bd. i., 1829, s. 243. f Humboldt, Essai Pollt. sur la Nouv. JEsp., t. i., p. 266, torn, ii., p. 310. X According to a manuscript which I was permitted to examine in the year 1S03, in the Archives of Mexico, the whole coast of Nutka, as far as what was afterward called " Cook's Inlet," was visited during the expedition of Juan Perez, and Estevan Jose Martinez, in the year 1774. 392 cosmos. be discovered in the immediate vicinity. Lights were seen from the ship at night, no ejections of mud, but great heat of the bed of the sea, and small pools of water containing sulphuric acid were observed. The district merits a careful investigation, and the phenomenon stands quite unconnected there, like the volcanic action of the Cerro de Buen Tiempo, or of Mount Elias in the Californian Cascade range (M'Clure, Discovery of the Northwest Passage, p. 99 ; Papers relative to the Arctic Expedition, 1854, p. 34; Miertsching's Reise-Tage- huch; Gnadau, 1855, s. 46). I have hitherto treated the volcanic vital activities of our planet in their intimate connections as if forming an ascend- ing scale of the great and mysterious phenomenon of a reac- tion of its fused interior upon its surface, clothed with ani- mal and vegetable organisms. I have considered next in order to the almost purely dynamic effects of the earthquake (the wave of concussion) the thermal sjirings and salses, that is to say, phenomena produced, with or without spontaneous ignition, by the permanent elevation of temperature commu- nicated to the water-springs and streams of gas, as well as by diversity of chemical mixture. The highest, and in its expressions the most complicated grade of the scale is pre- sented by the volcanoes, which call into action the great and varied processes of crystalline rock-formation by the dry method, and which consequently do not simply reduce and destroy, but appear in the character of creative powers, and form the materials for new combinations. A considerable portion of very recent, if not of the most recent, mountain strata is the work of volcanic action, whether effected, as in the present day, by the pouring forth of molten masses at many points of the earth at peculiar conical or dome-shaped elevated stages, or, as in the early years of our planet's exist- ence, by the immediate issuing forth of basaltic and trachytic rock by the side of the sedimentary strata, from a net-work of open fissures, without the intervention of any such structures. In the preceding pages I have most carefully endeavored to determine the locality of the points at which a communi- cation has long continued open between the fluid interior of the earth and the atmosphere. It now remains to sum up the number of these points, to separate out of the rich abund- ance of the volcanoes which have been active in very re- mote historical periods those which are still ignited at the present day, and to consider these according to their division into continental and insular volcanoes. If all those which, TRUE VOLCANOES. 393 in this enumeration, I think I may venture to consider the lowest limit of the number, were simultaneously in action, their influence on the condition of the atmosphere, and its climatic, and especially its electric relations, would certainly be extremely perceptible ; but as the eruptions do not take place simultaneously, but at different times, their effect is di- minished, and is confined within very narrow and chiefly mere local limits. In great eruptions there occur around the crater, as a consequence of the exhalation, volcanic storms, which, being accompanied by lightning and torrents of rain, often occasion great ravages ; but these atmospheric phenom- ena have no generally extended results. For that the re- markable obscurity (known by the name of the dry fog) which for the space of several months, from May to August of the year 1783, overspread a very considerable part of Europe and Asia, as well as the North of Africa — while the sky was seen pure and untroubled at the top of the lofty mountains of Switzerland — could have been occasioned by the unusual activity of the Icelandic volcanicity, and the earthquakes of Calabria, as is even now sometimes maintained, seems to me very improbable, on account of the magnitude of the effect produced.* Yet a certain apparent influence of earthquakes, in cases where they occupy much space, in changing the com- mencement of the rainy season, as in the highland of Quito and Eiobamba (in February, 1797), or in the southeastern countries of Europe and Asia Minor (in the autumn of 1856), misht, indeed, be viewed as the isolated influence of a volcanic eruption. In the following table the first figures denote the number of the volcanoes cited in the preceding pages, while the sec- ond figures, inclosed in parentheses, denote the number of those which in recent times have given evidence of their ig- neous activity. Number of Volcanoes on the Earth. I. Europe (above, p. 328, 329) 7 (4) II. Islands of the Atlantic Ocean (p. 329-332) 14 (8) III. Africa (p. 332-334) 3 (1) IV. Asia — Continental 25 (15) (1) Western and Central (p. 334-340) 11 (G) (2) The Peninsula of Kamtschatka (p. 340-344). 14 (9) V. Eastern Asiatic Islands (p. 344-354) 69 (54) [* A similar fog overspread the Tyrol and Switzerland in 1755, just before the great earthquake which destroyed Lisbon. It appeared to be composed of earthy particles reduced to an extreme degree of fine- ness.— Tr.] R 2 394 cosmos. VI. South Asiatic Islands (p. 281-391, 354-358) 120 (56) VII. Indian Ocean (p. 358-363, and note * at p. 361, 362) 9 (5) VIII. South Sea (p. 363-376; 361, note f; 365, note *; 366, note * 40 (26) IX. America — Continental 115 (53) (1) South America 56 (26) (a) Chili (p. 270, note || at p. 272-274) 24 (13) (6) Peru and Bolivia (p. 270-275, note § at p. 270-272) H (3) (c) Quito and New Granada (p. 270, note £). 18 (10) (2) Central America (p. 245, 255-264, 270, 309, note t at p. 257, notes * and f at p. 263).... 29 (18) (3) Mexico, south of the Rio Gila (p. 264, 266, 270, 291-309, note at 293-5, notes at p. 297, 298, 302, 303; 376-401, note % at p. 376, and notes on p. 377-82) 6 (4) (4) Northwestern America, north of the Gila (p. 383-392) 24 (5) The Antilles* 5 (3) Total 407 (225) * In the Antilles the volcanic activity is confined to what are called the " Little Antilles," three or four still active volcanoes having broken out on a somewhat curvilinear fissure running from south to north, nearly parallel to the volcanic fissure of Central America. In the course of the considerations induced by the simultaneousness of the earthquakes in the valleys of the rivers Ohio, Mississippi, and Arkan- sas, with those of the Orinoco, and of the shore of Venezuela, I have already described the little sea of the Antilles, in its connection with the Gulf of Mexico and the great plain of Louisiana, between the Al- leghanies and the Rocky Mountains, on geognostic views, as a single ancient basin {Voyage aux Regions Equinoxiaies, t. ii., p. 5 and 19 ; see also above, p. 10). This basin is intersected in its centre, between 18° and 22° lat., by a Plutonic mountain range from Cape Catoche, of the peninsula of Yucatan, to Tortola and Virgen gorda. Cuba, Hayti, and Porto Rico form a range running from west to east, parallel with the granite and gneiss chain of Caraccas. On the other hand, the Little Antilles, which are for the most part volcanic, unite together the Plutonic chain just alluded to (that of the Great Antilles) and that of the shore of Venezuela, closing the southern portion of the basin on the east. The still active volcanoes of the Little Antilles lie be- tween the parallels of 13° to 16^°, in the following order, reckoning from south to north : The volcano of the island of St. Vincent, stated sometimes at 3197 and sometimes at 5052 feet high. Since the eruption of 1718 all re- mained quiet, until an immense ejection of lava took place on the 27th of April, 1812. The first commotions commenced as early as May, 1811, near the crater, three months after the island of Sabrina, in the Azores, had risen from the sea. They began faintly in the mountain valley of Caraccas, 3496 feet above the surface of the sea, in Decem- ber of the same year. The complete destruction of the great city took place on the 26th of March, 1812. As the earthquake which destroyed Cumana, on the 14th of December, 1796, was with justice ascribed to the eruption of the volcano of Guadaloupe (the end of September, TRUE VOLCANOES. 395 The result of this laborious work, on which I have long I7'.n;i. in like manner the destruction of Caraccas appears to have been the effect of the reaction of a southerly volcano of the Antilles — that of St. Vincent. The frightful subterranean noise, like the thundering of cannon, produced by a violent eruption of the latter volcano on the 80th of April, 1 S I l» , was heard on the distant grass-plains (Idanos) of Calabozo, and on the shores of the Rio Apure, L92 geographical miles farther to the West than its junction with the Orinoco (Humboldt, ' 6-93 Soda 3-46 0-89 Potash 2-64 0-45 J 97-88 ( )XVf. 11. 83-81 7-27^ 1*16 0-89 0-73 1-58 114 0-33 J TRUE VOLCANOES. 431 Tuiiguragua, and trachyte rocks, which arc covered by the Abich'8 Analysis. (Height, 1G,179 English feet; specific gravity, 2-GS5.) < txygeo. Silicic acid 65*09 ... 83-81 2-G8 Alumina 15*58 ()w dot* iron 3-83 Protoxyd 1-73 Lime 2*61 Magnesia 4-10 Soda 4-4G Potash 1*99 Chlorine, and loss by heat... 0*4:1 DO- 80 In explanation of these figures it must be observed that the first se- ries gives the ingredients in a percentage, the second and third give the oxygen contained in them. The second space shows only the oxygen of the stronger oxyds (those which contain one atom of oxy- gen). In the third space this is recapitulated, so as to offer a compar- ison with that of the alumina earth (which is a weak oxyd) and of the silicic acid. The fourth space gives the proportion of the oxygen of the silicic acid to the oxygen of the aggregate bases, which latter are fixed = l. In the trachyte of Chimborazo this proportion is — 2-33: 1. "The differences between the analyses of Rammelsberg and of Abich are certainly important. Both analyzed minerals from Chim- borazo, from the relative heights of 19,194 and 1G,179 feet, which were broken off by you, and were taken from your geological collec- tion in the Royal Mineral Cabinet at Berlin. The mineral from the lower elevation (scarcely 400 feet higher than the summit of Mont Blanc), which Abich has analyzed, possesses a smaller specific gravity, and in correspondence therewith a greater quantity of silicic acid, than the mineral taken from a point 2918 feet higher, analyzed by Rammelsberg. Assuming that the argillaceous earth belongs only to the feldspathic ingredient, we may reckon in the analysis of Rammels- berg : Oligoclase 58-GG Augite 34-14: Silicic acid 4*08 As thus, by the assumption of oligoclase, a portion of silicic acid re- mains over uncombined, it is probable that the feldspathic ingredient is oligoclase, and not Labradorite. The latter does not occur with un- combined silicic acid, and if we were to suppose Labradorite in the rock, a greater quantity of silicic acid would remain over." A careful comparison of several analyses for which I am indebted to the friendship of M. Charles Sainte-Claire Devillc, to whom the valu- able geological collections of our mutual friend Boussingault are ac- cessible for chemical experiment, shows that the quantity of silicic acid contained in the fundamental mass of the trachytic rocks is gen- erally greater than in the feldspars which they contain. The table kindly communicated to me by the compiler himself in the month of June, 1857, contains only five of the great volcanoes of the chain of the Andes : 432 COSxMOS. ruins of Old Kiobamba. In the Tunguragua, besides the Names of the Volcanoes. Chimborazo Antisana Cotopaxi Eichincha Purace Guadaloupe Bourbon Structure and Color of the Mass. semi-vitrified, brownish gray semi-vitreous and black crystalline, compact, gray.... gray-black j vitreous and brownish I granulated black, vitreous nearly bottle-green gray, granulated, and cellular crystalline, gray, porous Silicic Acid in the whole Mass. 65-09 63-19 62-66 61-26 62-23 69-28 63-98 67-07 68-80 Abich Deville Deville Abich Abich Abich Abich Abich Deville 57-95 Deville 50-90 Deville mT i— ' O *^ r-i O « 05 "3 CD £ w 58-26 58-26 55-40 54:25 49-06 " These differences, as far as regards the relative richness in silica of the ground mass (and the feldspar)," continues Charles Deville, " will appear still more striking when it is considered that, in analyz- ing a rock en masse, there are included in the analysis, along with the basis properly so called, not only fragments of feldspar similar to those which have been extracted, but even such minerals as amphibole, pyr- oxene, and especially peridote, which are less rich in silica than the feldspar. This excess of silica manifests itself sometimes by the pres- ence of isolated grains of quartz, which M. Abich has detected in the trachytes of the Drachenfels (Siebengebirge, near Bonn), and which I have myself observed with some surprise in the trachytic dolerite of Guadaloupe." " If," observes Gustav Eose, " we add to this remarkable synopsis of the silicic acid contained in Chimborazo the result of the latest anal- ysis, that of Bammelsberg in May, 1854, we shall find that the result obtained by Deville occupies exactly the mean between those of Abich and Kammelsberg. Thus : Chimborazo Rock. Silicic acid 65-09 Abich (specific gravity, 2*685) 63-19 Deville 62-66 do. 59-12 Rammelsberg (specific gravity, 2-806)." In the Echo du Pacifique, of the 5th of January, 1857, published at San Francisco, in California, an account is given of a French travel- er, named M. Jules Bemy, having succeeded, on the 3d of November, 1856, in company with an Englishman, Mr. Brencklay, in reaching the summit of Chimborazo, which was, "however, enveloped in a cloud, so that we ascended without perceiving it." He observed, it is stated, the boiling point of water at 171°-5 F., with the temperature of the air at 31°9 F. On calculating, upon these data, the height he had attained, by a hypsometrical rule tested by him in repeated journeys in the Ha- way Archipelago, he was astonished at the result brought out. He found, in fact, that he was at an elevation of 21,467 feet; that is to TRUE VOLCANOES. 433 augites there occur also separate blackish-green crystals of oralite, of from half a line to five lines in length, with a per- fect augite form and the cleavage of hornblende (see Rose, Reise nach dem I'ral, bd. ii., s. 353)." I brought a similar fragment, with distinct uralitc crystals, from the slope of the TuRguragua at an elevation of 1 3.2G0 feet. Gustav Rose con- sidera this specimen strikingly different from the seven frag- ments of trachyte from the same volcano which are contained in my cabinet. It recalls to mind the formation of green- slate (schistose augitic porphyry) which we have found so diffused on the Asiatic side of the Ural (Ibid., s. 544). Fifth Division. — "A mixture of Labradorite* and au- say, at a height differing by only 40 feet from that given by my trig- onometrical measurement at Riobamba Nnevo, in the elevated plain of Tapia, in June, 1803, as the height of the summit of Chimborazo — namely, 21,426 feet. This correspondence of a trigonometrical measurement of the summit with one founded on the boiling point is the more surprising as my trigonometrical measurement, like all measurements of mountains in the Cordilleras, involves a barometrical portion ; and from the want of corresponding observations on the shore of the South Sea, my barometrical determination of the height of the Llano de Tapia, 9484 feet, can not possess all the exactness that could be desired. (For the details of my trigonometrical meas- urement, see my Recueil d Observations Astron., vol. i., p. 72 and 74). Professor Poggendorff kindly undertook to ascertain what result, un- der the most probable hypotheses, a rational mode of calculation would produce. He found, reckoning under both hypotheses, that, the pre- vailing temperature of the atmosphere at the sea being 81° "5 F., or 79°*7 F., and the barometer marking 29-922 inches, with the thermom- eter nf the freezing point, the following result is obtained by Reg- nault's table: the boiling point at the summit at 171°'5F. answers to 12*677 inches of the barometer at 32° temperature ; the temperature of the air may therefore be taken at 35°-3 F.— 34c*7 F. According to these data, Oltmann's tables give, for the height ascended, under the first hvpothesis (81°-5), = 7328m-2, or 24,043 feet; and under the sec- ond (79°.7), = 7314m-5, or 23,998 English feet, showing an average of 777m, or 2549 English feet more than my barometrical measurement. To have corresponded with this, the boiling point should have been found about 2°-25 cent, higher, if the summit of Chimborazo had act- ually been reached. (Poggendorffs Annalen, bd. c, 1857, s. 479.) **That the trachytic rocks of JEtna contain Labradorite was demon- strated by Gustav Rose in 1833, when he exhibited to his friends the rich Sicilian collections of Friedrich Hoffmann in the Berlin Minera- logical cabinet. In his treatise on the minerals known by the names of green-stone and green-stone porphyry (Poggend., AnnaL, bd. xxxiv., 1835, p. 29), Gustav Rose mentions the lavas of JEtna, which contain augite and Labradorite (compare Abich, in his interesting treatise on the whole feldspathic family, Poggend., AnnaL, 1840, bd. 1., s. 347). Leopold von Buch describes the rock of iEtna as analo- gous to the dolerite of the basalt formation (Poggend., AnnaL, bd. xxxvii., 1836, s. 188). Vol V.— T 434 cosmos. gite,* a doleritic trachyte : JEtna, Stromboli ; and, according to the admirable works on the trachytes of the Antilles by Charles Sainte-Claire Deville, the Soufriere de la Guade- loupe, as well as the three great cirques which surround the Pic de Salazu, on Bourbon." Sixth Division. — " The ground mass, often of a gray color, in which crystals of leucite and augite lie imbedded, with very little olivin: Vesuvius and Somma; also the extinct volcanoes of Vultur, Kocca Monfina, the Albanian Hills, and Borghetto. In the older mass (for example, in the wall and paving stones of Pompeii) the crystals of leucite are more considerable in size and more numerous than the augite. In the present lavas, on the contrary, the augites predominate, and the leucites are, on the whole, very scarce, although the lava stream of the 22d of April, 1845, has furnished them in abundance.! Fragments of trachytes of the first division, * Sartorius von Waltershausen, who has for many years carefully investigated the trachytes of JEtna, makes the following important observations : " The hornblende there belongs especially to the older masses — the green-stone veins in the Val del Bove, as well as the white and red trachytes, which form the ground mass of JEtna in the Serra Giannicola. Black hornblende and bright yellowish-green augite are there found side by side. The more recent lava streams, from 1669 (especially those of 1787, 1809, 1811, 1819, 1832, 1838, and 1812), show augite, but no hornblende. The latter seems to be gen- erated only after a longer period of cooling" (Waltershausen, JJeber die vulkanischen Gesteine von Sicilian unci Island, 1853, s. 111-114). In the augitiferous trachytes of the fourth division, in the chain of the Andes, along with the abundant augites, I have indeed sometimes found none, but sometimes, as at Cotopaxi (at an elevation of 14,068 feet) and at Rucu-Pichincha, at a height of 15,304 feet, distinct black hornblende crystals in small quantities. f See Pilla, in the Comjjtes rendus de VAcad. des Sc, t. xx., 1845, p. 324. In the leucite crystals of the Rocca Monfina, Pilla has found the surface covered with worm tubes (serpulce), indicating a submarine volcanic formation. On the leucite of the Eifel, in the trachyte of the Burgberg, near Rieden, and that of Albano, Lago Bracciano, and Borghetto, to the north of Rome, see above, page 224, note *. In the centre of large crystals of leucite, Leopold von Buch has generally found the fragment of a crystal of augite, round which the leucite crystallization has formed, "a circumstance which, considering the ready fusibility of the augite, and the infusibility of the leucite, is somewhat singular. More frequently still are fragments of the funda- mental mass itself inclosed like a nucleus in leucite porphyry." Oli- vin is likewise found in lavas, as in the cavities of the obsidian which I brought from the Cerro del Jacal, in Mexico (Cosmos, vol. i., p. 266, note ^f), and yet, strange to say, also in the hypersthene rock of Elf- dal (Berzelius, Sechster Jahresbericht, 1827, s. 302), which was long considered to be syenite. A similar contrast in the nature of the places where it is found is exhibited by oligoclase, which occurs in the TRUE VOLCANOES. 435 containing glassy feldspar (Leopold von Buch's trachyte proper)) are imbedded in the tufas of Monte Somma ; they also occur detached in the layer of pumice which covers Pompeii. The leucite ophyr trachytes of the sixth division must be carefully distinguished from the trachytes of the first division, although leucites occur in the westernmost part of the Phlegrsean Fields and on the island of Procida, as has been already mentioned." The talented originator of the above classification of vol- canoes, according to the association of the simple minerals which they present, does not by any means suppose that ho has completed the grouping of all that are found on the sur- face of the earth, which is still, on the whole, so very im- perfectly investigated in a scientifically geological and chem- ical sense. ' Modifications in the nomenclature of the asso- ciated minerals, as well as additions to the trachyte forma- tions themselves, are to be expected in two ways, both from the progressive improvement of mineralogy itself (in a more exact specific distinction both with regard to form and chem- ical composition), and from the increased* number of col- lections, which are for the most part so incomplete and so aimless. Here, as in all other cases where the governing law in cosmical investigations can only be discovered by a widely-extended comparison of individual cases, we must proceed on the principle that every thing which, in the pres- ent condition of science, we think we know is but a small portion of what the next century wTill bring to light. The means of early acquiring this advantage lie in profusion before us, but the investigation of the trachyte portion of the dry surface of the earth, whether raised, depressed, or opened up by fissures, has hitherto been very deficient in the employment of thoroughly exhaustive methods. Though similar in form, in the construction of their frame- work, and their geotectonic relations, volcanoes situated very near each other have frequently a very different individual trachytes of still burning volcanoes (the Peak of Tencriffe and Coto- paxi), and yet at the same time also in the granite and granitite of Schreibersau and Warmbrunn, in the Silesian Kiesengebirge (Gustav Rose, in the minerals belonging to the granite group, in the Zeit- schriften d. Deutsch. geol. Gesel/scL, zu Berlin, bd. i., s. 3G-4). This is not the case with the leucite in the Plutonic rocks, for the statement that leucite has been found disseminated iu the mica-slate and gneiss of the Pyrenees, near Gavarnie (an assertion which even Hauy has repeated), has been found erroneous, after many years' investigation, by Dufrenoy (Traite de Mineraloyie, t. hi., p. 399). 436 cosmos. character in regard to the composition and association of their mineral aggregate. On the great transverse fissure which, extending from sea to sea almost entirely in a direc- tion from west to east, intersects a chain of mountains, or, more properly speaking, an uninterrupted mountainous swell, running from southeast to northwest, the volcanoes occur in the following order: Colima (13,003 feet), Jorullo (4265 feet), Toluca (15,168 feet), Popocatepetl (17,726 feet), and Orizaba (17,884 feet). Those situated nearest to each other are dissimilar in the composition which characterizes them, a similarity of trachyte occurring only alternately. Colima and Popocatepetl consist of oligoclase, with augite, and con- sequently have the trachyte of Chimborazo or Teneriffe; Toluca and Orizaba consist of oligoclase with hornblende, and consequently have the rock of ^Egina and Kozelnik. The recently-formed volcano of Jorullo, which is scarcely more than a large eruptive hill, consists almost alone of scoriaceous lavas, resembling basalt and pitch-stone, and seems more like the trachyte of Toluca than that of Colima. In these considerations on the individual diversity of the mineralogical constitution of neighboring volcanoes, we find a condemnation of the mischievous attempt to introduce a name for a species of trachyte, derived from a mountain chain, chiefly volcanic, of more than 7200 geographical miles in length. The name of Jura limestone, which I was the first to introduce,* is unobjectionable, because it is taken from a simple unmixed rock — from a chain of mountains whose antiquity is characterized by its containing organic * In the course of a geological tour which I made, in 1795, through the south of France, western Switzerland, and the north of Italy, I had satisfied myself that the Jura limestone, which Werner reckoned among his muschel-kalk, constituted a peculiar formation. In my treatise on subterranean gases, published by my brother, Wilhelm von Humboldt, in 1799, during my residence in South America, this formation, which I provisionally designated as Jura limestone, was for the first time mentioned (s. 39). This account of the new formation was immediately transferred to the Oberbergrath Karsten's mineral- ogical tables, at that time so generally read (1800, p. 64, and preface, p. vii.). I named none of the petrifactions which characterize the Jura formation, and in relation to which Leopold von Buch has ac- quired so much credit (1839) ; I erred likewise in the age ascribed by me to the Jura formation, supposing it to be older than muschel-kalk, on account of its propinquity to the Alps, which were considered older than Zechstein. In the earliest tables of Buckland, on the Superpo- sition of Strata in the British, Islands, the Jura limestone of Humboldt is reckoned as belonging to the upper oolite. Compare my Essai Geogn. sur le Gisement des Roches, 1823, p. 281. TRUE VOLCANOES. 437 remains. It would in like manner be unobjectionable to designate trachyte formations after particular mountains — to make use of the expression Teneriffe trachyte or JEtna trachyte for decided oligoclase or Labradorite formations. So long as there was an inclination among geologists to find albite every where among the very different kinds of feldspar which arc peculiar to the chain of the Andes, every rock in which albite was supposed to exist was called andesite. I first meet with the name of this mineral, with the distinct definition that " andesite is composed of a preponderating quantity of albite and a small quantity of hornblende," in the important treatise written in the beginning of the year 1835, by my friend Leopold von Buch, on " Craters of up- heaval and volcanoes."* This tendency to find albite every * The name of andesite first occurs in print in Leopold von Buch's treatise, read on the 26th March, 1835, at the Berlin Academy. That great geologist limits the appellation of trachyte to those cases in which glassy feldspar is contained, and thus speaks in the above treatise, which was not printed till 183G (Poggend., Annul., bd. xxxvii., s. 188-190): "The discoveries of Gustav Kose relating to feldspar have shed a new light on volcanoes and geology in general, and the minerals of volcanoes have in consequence presented a new and totally unexpected aspect. After many careful investigations in the neighborhood of Catanea and at iEtna, Elie de Beaumont and I have convinced ourselves that feldspar is not to be met with on JEtna, and consequently there is no trachyte either. All the lava streams, as well as all the strata in the interior of the mountain, consist of a mixture of augite and Labradorite. Another important difference in the minerals of volcanoes is manifested when albite takes the place of feldspar, in which case a new mineral is formed, which can no longer be denominated trachyte. According to G. Hose's (present) investi- gations, it may be considei'ed tolerably certain that not one of the al- most innumerable volcanoes of the Andes consists of traclryte, but that they all contain albite in their constituent mass. This conjecture seems a very bold one, but it loses that appearance when we consider that we have become acquainted through Humboldt's journeys alone, with one half of these volcanoes and their products in both hemi- spheres. Through Meyen we are acquainted with these albitiferous minerals in Bolivia and the northern part of Chili ; through Poppig, as far as the southernmost limit of the same country ; through Erman, in the volcanoes of Kamtschatka. Their presence being so widely diffused and so distinctly marked, seems sufficiently to justify the name of andesite, under which this mineral, composed of a prepon- derance of albite and a small quantity of hornblende, has already been sometimes noticed." Almost at the same time that this appeared, Leopold von Buch enters more into the detail of the subject in the addenda with which, in 1836, he so greatly enriched the French edi- tion of his work on the Canaiy Islands. The volcanoes Pichincha, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, and Chimborazo, are all said to consist of an- desite, while the Mexican volcanoes were called genuine (sanidinifer- 438 cosmos. where lasted for five or six years, until renewed investiga- cms) trachytes (Descrijition physique des lies Canaries, 1836, p. 486, 487, 490, and 515). This lithological classification of the volcanoes of the Andes and those of Mexico shows that, in a scientific point of view, such a similarity of mineralogical constitution and the possibili- ty of a general denomination derived from a large extent of country, can not be thought of. A year later, when Leopold von Buch first made mention in Poggendorff's Annalen, of the name of andesite, which has been the occasion of so much confusion, I committed the mistake myself of making use of it on two occasions — once in 1836, in the account of my attempt to ascend Chimborazo, in Schumacher's Jahrbuch, 1837, s. 204, 205 (reprinted in my KMnere Schriften, bd. i., s. 160, 161); and again in 1837, in the treatise on the highland of Quito (in Poggend., Ann., bd. xl., s. 165). "Recent times have taught us," I observed, already strongly opposing my friend's con- jecture as to the similar constitution of all the Andes volcanoes, " that the different zones do not always present the same (mineral- ogical) composition, or the same component parts. Sometimes we find trachytes, properly so called, characterized by the glassy feldspar, as at the Peak of Teneriffe and in the Siebengebirge near Bonn, where a little albite is associated with the feldspar — feldspathic trachytes, which, as active volcanoes, exhibit abundance of obsidian and pumice ; sometimes melaphyre,and doleritic mixtures of Labradorite and augite, more nearly resembling the basalt formation, as at .ZEtna, Stromboli, and Chimborazo ; sometimes albite with hornblende prevails, as in the lately so-called andesites of Chili, and the splendid columns, described as dioritic porphyry, at Pisoje, near Popayan, at the foot of the vol- cano of Purace, or in the Mexican volcano of Jorullo ; finally, they are sometimes leucite ophyrs, a mixture of leucite and augite, as in the Somma, the ancient wall at the crater of elevation of Vesuvius." By an accidental misinterpretation of this passage, which shews many traces of the then imperfect state of geological knowledge (feldspar being still ascribed to the Peak of Teneriffe instead of oligoclase, Labradorite to Chimborazo, and albite to the volcano of Toluca), that talented investigator Abich, who is both a chemist and a geologist, has erroneously attributed to myself the invention of the term andesite as applied to a trachytic, widely- dispersed rock rich in albite (Poggend., Ann., bd. li., 1840, s. 523), and has given the name of andesine to a new species of feldspar, first analyzed by him, but still somewhat enig- matical in its nature, "with reference to the mineral (from Marnia- to, near Popayan) in which it was first observed." The andesine (pseudo-albite in andesite) is supposed to occupy a middle position between Labradorite and oligoclase ; at the temperature of 55°*7 its specific gravity is 2*733, while that of the andesite in which the ande- sine occurred is 3#593. Gustav Rose doubts, as did subsequently Charles Deville {Etudes de Lithologie, p. 30), the individuality of andesine, as it rests only on a single analysis of Abich, and because the analysis of the feldspathic ingredient in the beautiful dioritic por- phyry of Pisoje, near Popayan, brought by me from South America, which was performed by Francis (Poggend., bd. lii., 1841, s. 472) in the laboratory of Heinrich Rose, while it certainly shows a great re- semblance to the andesine of Marmato, as analyzed by Abich, is, not- withstanding, of a different composition. Still more uncertain is the TRUE VOLCANOES. 439 tions of a more profound and less prejudiced character led to the recognition of the trachytic albitcs as oligoclase.*" Gus- andesine in the syenite of the Vosges (from the Ballon de Scrvance, and Cdravillers, which Delesse has analyzed). Compare G. Rose, in the already often-cited /a itschrift dt r Deutschen gcologischen Gesell- xc/taf't, bd. i., for the year 18 49, s. 3G9. It is not unimportant to re- mark here that the name andesine, introduced by Abich as that of a simple mineral, appears for the first time in his valuable treatise, en- titled Beitrag zur Zcnntniss des Feldspaths (in Poggend., Ann., bd. I., s. 125, 341; bd. li., s. 519), in the year 1840, which is at least five years after the adoption of the name andesite, instead of being prior to the designation of the mineral from which it is taken, as has been sometimes erroneously supposed. In the formations of Chili, which Darwin so frequently calls andesitic granite and andesitic porphyry, rich in albite (Geological Observations on South America, 184G, p. 174), oligoclase may also very likely be obtained. Gustav Rose, whose treatise on the nomenclature of the minerals allied to green-stone and green-stone porphyry (in Poggendorff 's Ann., bd. xxxiv., s. 1-30) ap- peared in the same year, 1835, in which Leopold von Buch employed the name of andesite, has not, either in the treatise just mentioned or in any later work, made use of this term, the true definition of which is, not albite with hornblende, but in the Cordilleras of South Amer- ica, oligoclase with augite. The now obsolete account of the desig- nation of andesite, of which I have perhaps treated too circumstan- tially, helps to show, like many other examples in the history of the development of our physical knowledge, that erroneous or insufficient- < ly grounded conjectures (as, for instance, the tendency to enumerate varieties as species) frequently turn out advantageous to science, by inducing more exact observations. * So early as 1840, Abich described oligoclase trachyte from the summit rock of the Kasbegk and a part of the Ararat ( Ueber die Natur und die Ztisammensetzung der Vtdkan-Hildungen, s. 46), and even in 1835 Gustav Rose had the foresight to say that though "he had not hitherto in his definitions taken notice of oligoclase and pericline, yet that they probably also occur as ingredients of admixture." The be- lief formerly so generally entertained, that a decided preponderance of augite or of hornblende might be taken to denote a distinct species of the feldspar family, such as glassy orthoclase (sanidine), Labradorite, or oligoclase, appears to be very much shaken by a comparison of the trachytes of the Chimborazo and Toluca rocks, belonging to the fourth and third division. In the basalt formation hornblende and augite often occur in equal abundance, which is by no means the case in the trachytes ; but I have met with augite crystals quite isolated in Toluca rock, and a few hornblende crystals in portions of the Chimborazo, Pichincha, Purace, and Teneriffe rocks. Olivins, which are so very rarely absent in the basalts, are as great a rarity in trachytes as they are in phonolitcs ; yet we sometimes find in certain lava streams oli- vins formed in great abundance by the side of augites. Mica is, on the whole, very unusual in basalt, and yet some of the basaltic sum- mits of the Bohemian central mountains, first described by Reuss, Freiesleben, and myself, contain plenty of it. The unusual isolation of certain mineral bodies, and the causes of their legitimate specific association, probably depend on many still undiscovered causes of 440 cosmos. tav Rose has come to the general conclusion that it is very- doubtful whether albite occurs at all among the minerals as a real and essential element of commixture ; consequently, according to the old conception of andesite, this mineral would actually be wanting in the chain of the Andes. The mineralogical condition of the trachytes is imperfectly recognized if the porphyritically inclosed crystals can not be separately examined and measured, in which case the inves- tigator must have recourse, to the numerical proportions of the earths, alkalies, and metallic oxyds which the result of the analysis furnishes, as well as to the specific gravity of the seemingly amorphous mass to be analyzed. The result is obtained in a more convincing and more certain manner if the principal mass, as well as the chief elements of the mix- ture, can be singly investigated both mineralogically and chemically. This is the case with the trachytes of the Peak of Teneriffe and those of JEtna. The supposition that the principal mass consists of the same small, inseparable com- ponent parts which we recognize in the large crystals appears to be by no means well grounded, for, as we have already noticed, as shown in Charles Deville's work, the apparently , amorphous principal mass generally furnishes more silicic acid than would be expected from the nature of the feldspar and the other visible commixed elements. Among the leu- cite ophyrs, as Gustav Rose observes, a striking contrast is exhibited, even in the specific difference of the prevailing alkalies (of the potash containing interspersed leucites) and the almost exclusively natroniferous principal mass.* But along with these associations of augite with oligoclase, augite with Labradorite, and hornblende with oligoclase, pressure, temperature, fluidity, and rapidity in cooling. The specific differences of the association are, however, of great importance, both in the mixed rocks and in the masses of mineral veins ; and in geo- logical descriptions, noted down in the open air, in sight of the object described, the observer should be careful not to make any mistake as to what may be a prevailing, or at least a rarely absent member of the association, and what may be sparingly or only accidentally com- bined. The diversity which prevails in the elements of a mixture — for instance, in the trachytes — is repeated, as I have already noticed, in the rocks themselves. In both continents there exist large tracts of country in which trachyte formations and basalt formations, as it were, repel each other, as basalts and phonolites ; and there are other countries in which trachytes and basalts alternate with each other in tolerably close proximity (see Gustav Jenzsch, Monographic der boh- mischen JPhonolithe, 1856, s. 1-7). * See Bischof, Chemische und PhysikaUsche Geologie, bd. ii., 1851, s. 2288, 2297; Eoth, Monographie des Vesuvs, 1857, s. 305. TRUE VOLCANOES. 441 which arc referred to in our classification of the trachytes, and which especially characterize them, there exist likewise in each volcano other easily recognizable, unessential ele- ments of commixture, whose presence in large quantities or total absence in different volcanoes, often situated very near to each other, is very striking. Their occurrence, cither in frequent abundance, or else at long and separate intervals, depends probably, in one and the same natural laboratory, on various conditions of the depth from which the matter origin- ally came, the temperature, the pressure, the fluidity, or the quicker or slower process of cooling. The fact of the specific occurrence or the absence of certain ingredients is opposed to certain theories, such as the derivation of pumice from glassy feldspar or from obsidian. These views, which have not been altogether lately adopted, but originated as early as the end of the 18th century from a comparison of the trachytes of Hungary and of TenerifFe, engaged my attention for several years in Mexico and the Cordilleras, as my journals will testify. From the great advancement which lithology has undeniably made in modern times, the more imperfect defini- tions of the mineral species made by me during my journey have, through Gustav Rose's careful mineralogical elabora- tion of my collections, been improved and accurately certified. Mica. Black or dark-green magnesian mica is very abundant in the trachytes of the Cotopaxi, at an elevation of 14,470 feet between Suniguaicu and Quelendana, as also in the subterra- nean pumice-beds of Guapulo and Zumbalica at the foot of Cotopaxi,* but sixteen miles distant from the same. The trachytes of the volcano of Toluca are likewise rich in mag- nesian mica, which is wanting in the Chimborazo.f In the Continent of Europe micas have shown themselves in abund- ance: at Vesuvius (for example, in the eruptions of 1821- 1823, according to Monticelli and Covelli); in the Eifel, in the old volcanic bombs of the Lacher Lake ;| in the basalt * Cosmos, see above, p. 323. t It is almost superfluous to mention that the term wanting signifies only that, in the investigation of a not inconsiderable portion of volca- noes of large extent, a particular sort of mineral has hitherto been vainly sought for. I wish to distinguish between what is wanting (not being found), being of very rare admixture, and what, though more abundant, is still not normally characteristic. X Carl von Oevnhausen, Erkl. der geogn. Karte des Lacher Sees, 1847, s. 38. T2 442 cosmos. of the Meronitz, of the marly Kausawer Mountain, and espe- cially of the Gamayer summit* of the central Bohemian chain ; more rarely in the phonolite, "j" as well as in the dole- rite of the Kaiserstuhl near Freiburg. It is remarkable that in the trachytes and lavas of both continents not only no white (chiefly bi-axal) potash mica is observable, but that it is entirely dark-colored (chiefly uni-axal) magnesian mica, and that this exceptional occurrence of the magnesia mica is extended to many other rocks of eruption and Plutonic rocks, such as basalt, phonolite, syenite, syenitic slate, and even granitite, while the granite proper contains at one and the same time white alkaline mica and black or brown magnesia mica.f Glassy Feldspar. This kind of feldspar, which plays so important a part in the action of European volcanoes, in the trachytes of the first and second division (for example, on Ischia, in the Phlegraean Fields, or the Siebengebirge near Bonn), is probably entirely wanting in the New Continent, in the trachytes of active vol- canoes. This circumstance is the more striking, as sanidine (glassy feldspar) belongs essentially to the argentiferous, non- quartzose Mexican porphyries of Moran, Pachuca, Villalpan- do, and Acaquisotla, the first of which are connected with the obsidians of Jacal.§ * See the Bergmdnnisches Journal, von Kohler und Hofmann, 5ter Jahrgang, bd. i., 1792, s. 244, 251, 265. Basalt rich in mica, as on the Gamayer summit in the Bohemian centre mountains, is a rarity. I visited this part of the Bohemian central range in the summer of 1792, in company with Carl Freiesleben, afterward my companion in my Swiss tour, who has exercised so great an influence over my geo- logical and mining education. Bischof doubts all production of mica by the igneous method, and considers it a metamorphic product by the moist method. See his Lehrbuch der Chem. und Physikal. Geologie, bd. ii., s. 1426, 1439. t Jenzsch, Beitrage zur Kenntniss der Phonolithe, in der Zeitschrift der Deutschen Geologischen Gesettschqft, bd. viii., 1856, s. 36. X Gustav Rose, Ueber die zur Granitgruppe gehbrigen Gebirgsarten, in derselben Zeitschrift, bd. i., 1849, s. 359. § The porphyries of Moran, Real del Monte and Regla (the latter celebrated for the rich silver mines of the Veta Biscayna, and the vi- cinity of the obsidians and pearl-stones of the Cerro del Jacal and the Messerberg, Cerro de las Navajas), like almost all the metalliferous porphyries of America, are quite destitute of quartz (on these and oth- er analogous phenomena in Hungary, see Humboldt, Essai Geognos- tique sur le Gisement des Roches, p. 179-188, and 190-193). The por- phyries of Acaquisotla, however, on the road from Acapulco to Chil- panzingo, as well as those of Villalpando to the north of Guanaxuato, true volcanoes. 443 Hornblende ani> Augite. In this account of the characteristics of six different divi- sions of the trachytes, it has been already observed how the same minerals which occur as essential elements of commix- ture (for example, hornblende in the third division, or the Tallica rock) appear in other divisions in a separate or spo- radic condition (as in the fourth and fifth divisions, in the rock of Pichincha and of JEtna). I have found hornblende, though not in large quantities, in the trachytes of the volca- noes of Cotopaxi, Rucu-Pichincha, Tungurahua, and Anti- sana, along with augite and oligoclase, but scarcely ever along with these two minerals on the slope of the Chimbo- razo up to a height of more than 19,000 feet. Among the many specimens which I brought from Chimborazo, horn- blende is recognized only in two, and even then in small quantity. In the eruptions of Vesuvius in the years 1822 which are penetrated by auriferous veins, along with the sanidine con- tain also grains of brownish quartz. The small inclosures of grains of obsidian and glassy feldspar being, on the whole, rare in the volcanic rocks at the Cerro de las Navajas, and in the Valle de Santiago, so rich in basalt and pearl-stone, which is traversed in going from Valla- dolid to the volcano of Jorullo, I was the more astonished at finding at Capula and Pazcuaro, and especially near Yurisapundaro, all the ant-hills filled with beautifully shining grains of obsidian and sanidine. This was in the month of September, 1803 (Nivelfament Barometr., p. 327, No. 3G6, and Essai Gcognostique sur fa Gisement des Roches, p. 356). I was amazed that such small insects should be able to drag the minerals to such a distance. It has given m^ great pleasure to find that an active investigator, M. Jules Marcou, has observed something exactly similar. "There exists," he says, "on the high plateaux of the Rocky Mountains, and particularly in the neighborhood of Fort Defiance (to the west of Mount Taylor), a species of ant which, instead of using fragments of wood and vegetable remains for the purpose of building its dwelling, employs only small stones of the size of a grain of maize. Its instinct leads it to select the most brilliant fragments of stones, and thus the ant-hill is frequently filled with magnificent transparent garnets and very pure grains of quartz." (Jules Marcou, Resume explicatif 'oVune Carte Geogn. des Etats Unis, 1855, p. 3.) Glassy feldspar is very rare in the present lavas of Vesuvius, but this is not the case in the old lavas ; for instance, in those of the eruption of 1631, where it occurs along withcrystals of leucite. Sanidine is also found in abundance in the Arso lava stream, from Cremate toward Ischia, of the year 1301, without any leucite; but this must not be confounded with the older stream, described by Strabo, near Montag- none and Kotaro (Cosmos, see above, p. 252, 399). Glassy feldspar is not only rare in the trachytes of Cotopaxi and other volcanoes of the Cordilleras generally, but it is equally so in the subterranean pumice quarries at the foot of the Cotopaxi. What was formerly described as sanidine are crystals of oligoclase. 444 cosmos. and 1850, augite and crystals of hornblende (these nearly nine Parisian lines in length) were contemporaneously formed "by exhalations of vapors on fissures.* The hornblende of jEtna, as Sartorius von Waltershausen observes, belongs es- pecially to the older lavas. That remarkable mineral, so widely diffused in Western Asia and at several points of Europe, which Gustav Rose has denominated Uralite, being allied in structure and crystalline form to hornblende and augite,| I here once more gladly point attention to the first occurrence of uralite crystals in the New Continent; they were recognized by Rose in a piece of trachyte which I ab- stracted from the slope of the Tungurahua, 3200 feet below the summit. ■ * Leucites. Leucites, which in Europe belong exclusively to Vesuvius, the Rocca Monfina, the Albanian Mountains near Rome, the Kaiserstuhl in the Breisgau, and the Eifel (in the western en- virons of the Lachar Lake in blocks, and not in the con- tiguous rock, as in the Burgberg near Rieden), have never yet been found in volcanic rocks of the New Continent, or the Asiatic portion of the Old. Leopold von Buch discov- ered them round an augite crystal as early as the year 1798, and described in an admirable treatise their frequent forma- tion. J The augite crystal, round which, according to this great geologist, the leucite is formed, is seldom wanting, but appears to me to be sometimes replaced by a small grain or morsel of trachyte. The unequal degrees of fusibility be- tween the grain of trachyte and the surrounding mass of leu- cite raise some chemical difficulties to the explanation of the mode in which the integumental covering is formed. Leucites, partly detached, according to Scacchi, and partly mixed with lava, were extremely abundant in the recent eruptions of Vesuvius in 1822, 1828, 1832, 1845, and 1847. Olivin. Olivin being very abundant in the old lavas of Vesuvius § * Roth, Monographic des Vesutfs, s. 267, 382. t See above, p. 434, note * ; Rose, Reise nach dem Ural., bd. ii., s. 369 ; Bischof, Chem. und Physik. Geologie, bd. ii., s. 528-571. % Gilbert's Annahn der Physik., bd. vi., 1800, s. 53; Bischof, Geolo- gie, bd. ii., s. 2265-2303. § The recent lavas of Vesuvius contain neither olivin nor glassy feld- spar ; Roth, Mon. des Vesuvs., s. 139. According to Leopold von Buch, the lava stream of the Peak of Teneriffe of 1704, described by Viera and TRUE VOLCANOES. 445 (especially in the lcucile ophyrs of the Somma), in the Arso of Isehia, in the eruption of 1301, mixed with glassy feld- spar, brown mica, green augite, and magnetic iron, in the volcanoes of the Eifel, which emit lava streams (for example, in the Mosenbcrge, westward of Mandcrscheid),* and in the southeastern portion of Teneritlc, in the lava eruption of Guimar in the year 1704, I have also searched for it very diligently, but in vain, in the trachytes of the volcanoes of Mexico, New Granada, and Quito. Our Berlin collections contain sixty-eight specimens of trachyte of the four volca- noes, Tungurahua, Antisana, Chimborazo, and Pichincha alone, forty-eight of which were contributed by me and twen- ty by Boussingault.f In the basalt formations of the New "World olivin, along with augite, is as abundant as in Europe ; but the black, basaltic trachyte of Yana Urcu, near Calpi, at the foot of the Chimborazo, J as well as those enigmatical tra- Glas, is the only one which contains olivin (Descr. des lies Canaries, p. 207). The supposition that the eruption of 1704 was the first which had taken place since the conquest of the Canary Islands, at the end of the 15th century, has been shown by me in another place (Ex- amen Critique de VHistoire de la Geograpliie, t. iii., p. 143-146) to be erroneous. Columbus saw the eruption of fire on Teneriffe, at the time of his first voyage of discovery, on the nights of the 21st to the 25th of August, when he went in search of Dofia Beatriz de Bobadilla, of the Gran Canaria. It is thus noticed in the admiral's journal, un- der the Rubric of " Jueves, 9 de Agosto," which contains notices up to the 2d of September — " Vieron salir gran fuego de la Sierra de la Isla de Tenerife, que es muy alta en gran manera" — "they saw a great deal of fire rising with a grand appearance out of the mountain of the island of Teneriffe, which is. very high ;" Navarrete, Col. de los Viagcs de los Espanoles, t. i., p. 5. The lady above named must not be con- founded with Dona Beatriz Henriquez of Cordova — the mother of his illegitimate son, the learned Don Fernando Colon, the historian of his father — whose pregnancy in the year 1488 so materially contributed to detain Columbus in Spain, and to lead to the discovery of the New World being made on account of Castile and Leon, and not for Portugal, France, or England (see my Examen Critique, t. iii., p. 350, and 307). * Cosmos, see above, p. 222. t A considerable portion of the minerals collected during my Ameri- can expedition has been sent to the Spanish Mineral Cabinet, to the King of Etruria, to England, and to France. I do not refer to the geo- logical and botanical collections which my worthy friend and fellow- laborer, Bonpland, possesses, with the two-fold right of self-collection and self-discovery. This extensive dispersion of the material (which, from the very exact account given of the places in which they origin- ated, does not prevent the maintenance of the groups in their geograph- ical relations) has this advantage, that it facilitates the most compre- hensive and exact definition of those minerals whose substantial and habitual association characterizes the different kinds of rocks. X Humboldt, Kleiner e Schriften, bd. i., s. 139. 446 cosmos. chytes called La reventazon del Volcan de Anzango* contain no olivin. It was only in the great brown-black lava stream, with a crisp, scoriaceous surface raised like a cauliflower, whose track we followed in order to reach the crater of the volcano of Jorullo, that we met with small grains of olivin imbedded.! The prevailing scarcity of olivin in the modern lavas and the greater part of the trachytes seem less striking when we recollect that, essential as olivin appears to be for basalt in general, yet (according to Krug von Nidda and Sar- torius von Waltershausen) in Iceland and in the German Rhone Mountains the basalt destitute of olivin is not dis- tinguishable from that which abounds in it. The former it has been the custom from the earliest times to call trap and ivacke, the latter we have in modern times denominated Ane- masite.% Olivins, which sometimes occur as large as a man's head in the basalts of Rentieres, in the Auvergne, attain also in the Unkler quarries, which were the object of my first youthful researches, to the size of six inches in diameter. The beautiful hypersthene rock of Elfdalen, in Sweden, much employed for ornamental purposes, § a granulated mixture of hypersthene and Labradorite, which Berzelius has described as syenite, likewise contains olivin, || as does also (though more rarely) the phonolite of the Pic de Griou, in the Can- tal.^f While, according to Stromeyer, nickel is a very con- stant accompaniment of olivin, Rumler has, on the other hand, discovered arsenic in it,** a metal which has been found in the most recent times widely diffused in so many mineral * Humboldt, Kleinere Schriften, s. 202; and Cosmos ^ee above, p. 222. f Humboldt, Kl. Schr., vol. i., p. 344. I have also found a great deal of olivin in the tezontle (cellular lava, or basaltic amygdaloid? — in Mexican, tetzontli, i.e., stone-hair, from tetl, stone, and tzontli, hair) belonging to the Cerro de Axusco, in Mexico. % Sartorius von Waltershausen, Physisch-geographische Skizze von Island, s. 64. [§ It is there cut into vases, sometimes of a considerable size, and other ornamental objects. From the high polish it takes, and the contrast of its colors, it is one of the most beautiful stones in exist- ence.— Tr.] || Berzelius, Sechster Jahresbericht, 1827, p. 392; Gustav Rose, in Poggend., Ann., vol. xxxiv., 1835, p. 14. *[[ Jenzsch, Phonolithe, 1856, p. 37 ; and Senft, in his important work, Classification der Felsarten, 1857, p. 187. According to Scacchi, olivin occurs also, along with mica and augite, in the lime blocks of the Som- ma. I call these remarkable masses erupted blocks, not lavas, for the Somma appears never to have ejected the latter. ** Poggend., Annal, bd. xlix., 1840, s. 591, and bd. Ixxxiv., s. 302; Daubree, in the Annates des Mines, 4me Serie, t. xix., 1851, p. 669v. TRUE VOLCANOES. 447 springs and even in sea-water. The occurrence of olivin in meteoric stones* and in artificial scoria:, as investigated by Seifstrom,t I have already mentioned. Obsidian. As early as in the spring and summer of 1700, while I was preparing in Spain for my voyage to the Canary Isles, there prevailed generally among the mineralogists in Madrid — Ilergen, Don Jose Clavijo, and others — the opinion that pumice was entirely derived from obsidian. This opinion had been founded on the study of some line geological collec- tions from the Peak of Teneriffe, and a comparison of them with the phenomena which Hungary furnishes, although the latter were at that time explained chiefly in accordance with the Neptunian views of the Freiberg school. Doubts of the correctness of this theory of formation, awakened at an early period in my mind by my observations in the Canary Isles, the Cordilleras of Quito, and in the range of Mexican volca- noes, J impelled me to direct my most earnest attention to two groups of facts : first, the different nature of the inclosures of obsidians and pumice in general ; and, secondly, the fre- quency of the association or entire separation of them in well investigated active volcanic structures. My journals are filled with notices on this subject, and the specific definition of the imbedded minerals has been ascertained by the most varied and most recent investigations of my ever-ready and obliging friend, Gustav Rose. Both glassy feldspar and oligoclase occur in obsidian as well as in pumice, and frequently both of them together. As examples may be cited — the Mexican obsidians of the Cerro de las Navajas, on the eastern slope of the Jacal, collected by me — those of Chico, with many crystals of mica — those of Zimapan, to the S.S.W. of the capital of Mexico, mixed with small distinct crystals of quartz, and the pumice of the Rio Mayo (on the mountain road from Popayan to Pasto), as well as those of the extinct volcano of Sorata, near Popayan. The subterranean pumice quarries near Lactacunga§ contain a large quantity of mica, oligoclase, and (which is very rare in pumice and obsidian) hornblende also ; the latter, how- ever, is also found in the pumice of the volcano of Arequipa. * Cosmos, vol. i., p. 131, and vol. iv., p. 225. t Ibid., vol. i., p. 267, note *. X Humboldt, Personal Narrative, vol. i., p. 113 (Bohn's edition). § See above, p. 322. 448 cosmos. Common feldspar (orthoclase) never occurs in pumice along with sanidine, nor is augite ever present. The Somma, not the cone of Vesuvius itself, contains pumice, inclosing earthy- masses of carbonate of lime. It is by this remarkable vari- ety of a calcareous pumice that Pompeii was overwhelmed.* Obsidians are rare in genuine lava-like streams ; they belong almost solely to the Peak of Teneriffe, Lipari, and Volcano. Passing now to the association of obsidian and pumice in one and the same volcano, the following facts appear. Pi- chincha possesses large pumice fields, and no obsidian. Chim- borazo, like JEtna, whose trachytes, however, have a totally different composition (containing Labradorite instead of oligo- clase), shows neither obsidian nor pumice ; this same defi- ciency I observed on my ascent of the Tungurahua. The volcano Purace, near Popayan, has a great deal of obsidian mixed in its trachytes, but has never yielded any pumice. The immense plains out of which rise the Ilinissa, Carguai- razo, and Altar are covered with pumice. The subterra- nean pumice quarries near Lactacunga, as well as those of Huichapa, southeast of Queretaro ; and the accumulations of pumice at the Rio Mayo,f those near Tschegem in the Caucasus, $ and near Tollo§ in Chili, at a distance from act- ive volcanic structures, appear to me to belong to the phe- nomena of eruption from the numerous fissures in the level surface of the earth. Another Chilian volcano, that of An- tuco || (of which Poppig has given a description as scientific- ally important as it is agreeably written), produces, like Ve- suvius, ashes, triturated rapilli (sand), but gives out no pum- ice, no vitrified or obsidian-like mineral. Without the pres- ence of either obsidian or glassy feldspar, we sometimes meet with pumice in trachytes of very dissimilar composition, al- though in many cases it is not present. Pumice, as Charles Darwin observes, is entirely wanting in those of the Archi- * Scacchi, Osservazioni critiche sulla maniera come fa sepdlita Vantica Pompei, 1 843, p. 10, in opposition to the theory proposed by Carmine Lippi, and afterward shared by Tondi, Tenore, Pilla, and Dufrenoy, that Pompeii and Herculaneum were not overwhelmed by rapilli and ashes direct from the Somma, but that they were conveyed there by water. Roth, Monogr. des Vestws, 1857, s. 458 ; see above, p. 401. + Nivellement Barometrique, in Humboldt, Observat. Astron., vol. i., p. 305, No. 149. $ See above, p. 324. § For an account of the pumice hill of Tollo, at a distance of two days' journey from the active volcano of Maypu, which has itself never ejected a fragment of such pumice, see Meyen, Reise inn die Erde, th. I'., s. 338 and 358. II Poppig, Reise in Chile und Peru, bd. i., s. 42G. TRUE VOLCANOES. 449 pclago of the Gallapagos. Wc have already remarked in another place that cones of cinders are wanting in the mighty volcano of Manna Loa, in the Sandwich Islands, as well as in the volcanoes of the Eifel,* which once emitted lava streams. Though the island of Java contains a series of more than forty volcanoes, of which as many as twenty-three are still active, yet Junghuhn was only able to discover two points in the volcano of Gunung Guntnr, near Bandong and the great Tengger Mountains,! in which masses of obsidian have been formed. These do not appear to have given occa- sion to the formation of pumice. The sand lakes of Dasar, which lie about G828 feet above the mean level of the sea, are not covered with pumice, but with a layer of rapilli, de- scribed as being obsidian-like, semi-vitrified fragments of ba- salt. The cone of Vesuvius, which never emits pumice, gave out, from the 21th to the 28th of October, 1822, a layer eighteen inches thick of sand-like ashes, consisting of pulver- ized trachytic rapilli, which has never been mistaken for pumice. The cavities and air-holes of obsidian, in which crystals of olivin, probably precipitated from vapors, have formed — as, for example, in the Mexican Cerro del Jacal — are sometimes found, in both hemispheres, to contain another kind of in- closures, which seem to indicate the manner of their origin and formation. In the wider portions of these long-extended, and for the most part very regularly parallel cavities, frag- ments of half-decomposed earthy trachyte are found imbed- ded. Beyond these the cavity runs on in the form of a tail, as if a gas-like elastic fluid had been developed by volcanic heat in the still soft mass. This phenomenon particularly attracted the attention of Leopold von Buch when he visited the Thomson collection of minerals at Naples, in company with Gay-Lussac and myself, in the year 1805.$ The infla- tion of obsidian by the operation of fire, which did not escape attention in the early period of Grecian antiquity ,§ is cer- tainly caused by some such development of gas. According to Abich, obsidians pass the more easily into cellular (not parallel-porous) pumice, the poorer they are in silicic acid * See above, p. 367, and notes, p. 302-304. f Franz Junghuhn, Java, bd. ii., s. 388, 592. % Leopold von Buch, in the Abhandl. der Akademie der Wiss. zu Berlin, for the years 1812-1813 (Berlin, 1816), s. 128. § Theophrastus de Lapidibus, s. 14 and 15 (Opera cd. Schneider, t. i., 1818, p. 689 ; t. ii., p. 426 ; and t. iv., p. 551), says this of the "lipa- rian stone" (kiTrctpcrtog). 450 cosmos. and the richer they are in alkalies. It remains, however, very uncertain, according to Rammelsberg's researches,* whether the tumefaction is to be ascribed to the volatiliza- tion of potash or hydrochloric acid. It is probable that similar phenomena of inflation in trachytes rich in obsidian and sanidine, in porous basalts and amygdaloids, in pitch- stone, tourmalin, and that dark-brown flint which loses its color, may have very different causes in the different mate- rials themselves. An investigation which has now been long looked for in vain, founded on accurate experiments, exclu- sively directed to these escaping gaseous fluids, would lead to an invaluable extension of our knowledge of the geology of volcanoes, if at the same time attention were paid to the operation of the sea-water in subterranean formations, and to the great quantity of carbureted hydrogen belonging to the commingled organic substances. The facts which I have brought together at the end of this section, the enumeration of those volcanoes which produce pumice without obsidian, and those which yield a great deal of obsidian and no pumice — the remarkable, not constant, but very diversified association of obsidian and pumice with certain other minerals, early led me, during my residence in the Cordilleras of Quito, to the conclusion that the forma- tion of pumice is the result of a chemical process, which may be verified in trachytes of very heterogeneous composition, without the necessity of a previous intervention of obsidian (that is to say, without its pre-existence in large masses). The conditions under which such a process is performed on a large scale are perhaps founded (I would here repeat) less on the diversity of the material than on the gradation of heat, the pressure determined by the depth, the fluidity, and the length of time occupied in solidification. The striking, though rare, phenomena presented by the isolation of immense sub- terraneous pumice quarries, far from any volcanic structures (conical and bell-shaped mountains), lead me at the same time to conjecture! that a not inconsiderable — perhaps even, in regard to volume, the greater — number of the volcanic rocks have been erupted, not from upraised volcanic struc- * Kammelsberg, in Poggend., Annal., bd. lxxx., 1850, s. 464, and fourth supplement to his Chemische Handivdrterbuch, s. 169 ; compare also Bischof, Geol., bd. ii., 2224, 2232, 2280. t See above, p. 291, 311, 312-316, 322-325. For particulars re- specting the geographical distribution of pumice and obsidian in the tropical zone of the New Continent, see Humboldt, JEssai Geognostiqiie stir h Gisement des Roches, etc., 1823, p. 340-342, and 344-347. TRUE VOLCANOES. 451 tares, but from a net- work of fissures on the surface of the earth frequently covering over in the form of strata a space of many square miles. To these probably belong those masses of trap of the lower Silurian formation of the southwest of England, by the chronometric determination of which my worthy friend, Sir Eoderic Murchison, has so greatly increased and heightened our acquaintance with the geological con- struction of the globe. INDEX TO VOL. V. Amen on volcanic phenomena In Ghilan, l(i'.>; hifl views on the Caucasian mount- ain system, 201, 3S3; analysis of the Chimborazo rock, 431. Aconcagua, volcano of, measurement of, 273. Aeosta on the volcancitos of Turhaco, 205. Adams, Mount, a volcano, 390. ..Enaria, the island of Apes, 252. iEolus, residence of, on Strongyle, 244. iEtna, eruptions of, usually occur within a space of six years, 243; periods of its greatest activity, 244; height to which ejected matters attain, 251; its trach- ytes, 434. Africa, determination of the magnetic equator in, by Sabine, 102 ; its transla- tion, 104; snowy mountains in, 333; vol- canoes in, 332 ; their small number, 334. African magnetic node, its varying posi- tion, 102. Agaschagokh, island of, 348. Agreeable odor diffused from certain vol- canoes, 219. Agua, Volcan de, described, 2G2. Airy, density of the earth determined by, 35; on terrestrial magnetism, 79. Alaid, great eruptions of the volcano on the isle of, 349. Albite, 43S. Aleutian islands, numerous volcanoes in, 34T. Alps, temperature of springs in the, 1S4. America. See Central America, Chili, Mexico, Northwest America, Peru and Bolivia, Rocky Mountains, South Sea. Ampere on the cause of earthquakes, 162. Ampolletas, 57. Amsterdam, volcanic island of, 360. Anahuac, series of volcanoes of, 266. Anaxagoras, maxim of, verified, 11. Andaman isles, volcanic phenomena in the, 359. Andes, large spaces in the chain of, desti- tute of volcanoes, 267 ; groups and dis- tances, 26S ; special direction of the three Cordilleras, 276. Andesite, 437, 439. Andrea Bianco, his early charts exhibit the magnetic variation, 55. Anemasite, 446. Annular valleys, 221. Ansango, lake of, 313. Ansogorri, Father Joaquin, his description of the rise of the volcano Jorullo, 292. Ant-hills in the Rocky Mountains, their remarkable construction, 443. Antilles, Little, volcanoes of the, described, 394 Antisana, the colossal mountain, described, 311 ; its dikes, 312; lakes, 313. Antuco, volcano of, 273. . I ph ron, the northern pole of the mag- netic needle, 54. Apparatus employed by Humboldt for his 453 determinations of height in the New World, 428. Arabia, lava eruptions in, 336. Arago on magnetic inclination, 105; his series of magnetic observations, 75. Aiarat, as a volcano, 339. Arare, crater of, 36S. Arequipa, volcano of, 270. Argseus, the volcano, 237. Arimer, country of the, 252. Aristotle on the fundamental principles of nature, 9; volcanic phenomenon upon Hiera described by, 219. Arran, volcanic phenomena in, 329. Artesian wells, Walferdin's observations on, 3S. Ascension, volcanic phenomena of the isl- and of, 331. Asia, situation of the principal volcanoes in, 2S1 ; volcanoes of the western and central parts, 334; of Kamtschatka, 340 ; of the islands of Eastern Asia, 344 ; of the islands of Southern Asia, 354; of the Indian Ocean, 358. Atlantic Ocean, volcanoes of the islands of the, 330; presumed submarine vol- cano, 332. Atlantis of Solon, 173. Atolls, or lagoon reefs, 363. Attraction of the magnet known to tho Greeks and Romans, 51. Augite, 443. Aurora Borealis, 147 ; observations of the black segment, 148; colors observed in high latitudes, 149 ; accompanying fleecy clouds, 150 ; influence on terrestrial mag- netism, 152 ; observations at Berlin and at Edinburgh, 153. Auvergne, extinct volcanoes of, 227, 263. Azores, craters of elevation in the, 217; the volcano of Pico, 236. Azufral de Quindiu, Humboldt's visit to the, 211; change of temperature ob- served by Boussingault, 212. Baily on the density of the earth, 34. Baker, Mount, a volcano, 390. l'.anda, a vulcanic island, ?,'n. I'.arba, the volcano, described, 259. Barile, earthquake at, 167. Harrancos on the slopes of volcanoes, 2S7. Barren Island, one of the Andamans, ap- 454 INDEX. pearance of, as described by Horsburgh, 359. Basalt-like columns of Pisoje, 426. Beaufort, Admiral, the Chiinsera described by, 244. Beauvais, Vincent of, on the magnetic needle, 54. Belcher, Sir E., magnetic observations by, 111. Bell-shaped volcanic mountains, 218. Berg, Albert, his description of the burn- ing spring Chimpera, 244. Berlin, aurora observed at, by Humboldt, 153. Bessel, determination of the size and fig- ure of the earth, IS, 29. Biot, pendulum measurements by, 26. Bolivia. See Peru. Borda, his services in equipping the expe- dition of La Perouse, 62. Borneo, the Giava Maggiore of Marco Polo, 355; doubtful -whether volcanoes exist there, 355; groat number of volcanoes in its vicinity, 355. Bo-shan, eruption of the volcano, 409. Bouguer's experiments on the deviation of the plummet, 33; on the pumice-quar- ries of Lactacunga, 322. Bourbon, volcanoes of the isle of, 359. Boussingault's method of determining the mean temperature, 42 ; on the cause of earthquakes, 164; on the matters eject- ed from volcanoes, 315 ; on gases, 413. Bove, Val del, on iEtna, 215, 230. Bramidos de Guanaxuato, 1T2. Bravais on Artesian wells, 40; on the black segment of the aurora, 148. Brisbane, Sir Thomas, his observatory at Makerston, 120. British isles, volcanic phenomena in the, 329, 450. Bromo, a volcano in Java, its crater-lake, 2S5. Brooke, Rajah, on the volcanic appear- ances in Borneo, 356. Brooks of cold water said to be converted into thermal springs, 296. Brown, Mount, a volcano, 390. Buch, Leopold von, his work on basaltic islands and craters of elevation, 216; on the erupted matters of Vesuvius, 224 ; on the trachytes of ..Etna, 437. Buddhist fancy as to the cause of earth- quakes, 170. Bunsen on fumaroles, 396. Burkart, his visit to Jorullo, 300. Calabria, earthquake in, in 1783, 166. Calamatico, el, an ancient name for the magnetic pole, 57. Calbuco, Volcan de, 274. Caldron-like depressions of volcanoes, 221. California, list of the volcanoes of, 389. Callaqui, volcano of, 274. Canary Islands, eruptions in the, 445. Capac-Urcu, an extinct volcano, 267. Cape of Good Hope, magnetic observations ^ at, 111. Carbonic acid gas, considerations on, 413. Carbonic acid gas, jets of, 193. Cascade mountain range, in California, 388. Castillo, Fray Bias del, explores the crater of Masaya, 247. Catalans, advanced state of navigation among the, 54, 55. Caucasus, volcanic phenomena of the, 199 ; a continuation of the Thian-schan, 338 ; its extinct volcanoes, 338. Cavanilles, his account of the earthquake of Riobamba, 166. Celebes, volcanoes of, 357. Central America, linear volcanoes of, 255, 25S ; number of volcanoes in, 259 ; rec- ommended for farther examination, 263. Chacani or Charcani, volcano of, 270. Chahorra, the crater of, on the Peak of Teneriffe, 249. Chatham Island, its position, 376. Chili, group of volcanoes in, 272; their greatest elevation, where attained, 2S0. Chilian, Volcan de, 273. Chiloe, submarine volcano near, 272. Chimsera, in Lycia, not a volcano, but a perpetual burning spring, 203, 244 ; an- alogous phenomenon in the Kuen-liin, 409. Chimborazo, majestic dome, form of, 419; ascent of, 432; considerations on the height of the mountain, 432. Chimboi'azo rock, Eammelsberg's analysis of, 430; Abich's, 431; remarks on the differences between them, 432. Chiflal, volcano of, 274. Chinese, early acquainted with the polari- ty of the magnet, 52; rope-boring, 209; early maps of the, 405. Chuapri, volcano of, 272. Cinders, cones of, wanting in several vol- canoes which once emitted lava streams, 449 ; thickness of the layers of, on San- gay, 251. Circumvallations, volcanic, 220; that of Oisans, in France, its great extent, 220 ; of Mont Blanc, 220. Coal strata, 413. Coan, the missionary, on the basin of Kil- auea, 363. Coast Range mountains, in California, old volcanic rocks of the, 389. Cofre de Perote, Humboldt's ascent of, 307. Columbus determines astronomically a line of no variation, 55; notice of an eruption on Teneriffe, by, 445. Comangillas, Aguas de, a hot spring, 189. Commotion, waves of, in earthquakes, 165; theory of, 166; attempts to explain the rotatoiy shocks experienced in Calabria, 166. Commotions of the earth in earthquakes often confined within narrow limits, 175. Comoro Islands, burning volcano in the, 360. Compass. See Mariner's Compass. Compression, polar, 32. Conchagua, a volcano, 261. Conical volcanic mountains, 228. Conseguina, eruption of, 260. Copiapo, destruction of the town of, 272. Coquimbo, volcano of, 272. Coral islands, number of, in the Pacific, according to Dana, 365. INDEX. 455 Corcovado, Voloan do, 274. < lorduleras. Bee Amir,-. I'liw, volcanoes of, 353. I ima, small elevation of tho volcano of, 234. .!, Colonel A., his experiments on mean annual temperature, 43, Cotopaxi, mineralogical composition of, 322. (.'raters of elevation, 215; distinguished from true volcanoes, 217. See, also, Volcanoes. Crozet's group, traces of former volcanic action in, 362. Crust of tho earth, considerations on its varying thickness, 410. Crystallized minerals of the Ulnars, 224; greater number found on Vesuvius, 224. Cueva de Antisana, 312. Cyclades, volcanic phenomena in the, 254. Dana, James, his valuable researches in tho Pacific, 364; his grouping of the ba- saltic and coral islands, 305; and the vol- canoes of the Sandwich Islnnds, 3G7. Darwin, Charles, his enlarged views on earthquakes and eruptions of volcanoes, 272 ; general acknowledgment of obliga- tions of science to, 364. Dasar, sand lakes of, 449. Dechen, H. von, on volcanic phenomena in the Eifel, 226. Decimation. See Magnetism. 1 degree, table of the increase in length of the, from the equator to the pole, 21. Demavend, volcano of, 335; question of its altitude, 334. Density of the earth, experiments to de- termine, 33; Airy's residts, 35. Detritus dikes, 311. Deville, on the structure and color of the mass in certain volcanoes, 432. Devonian slate, 221. Diablo, Monte del, in California, 389. Diamaejnetism, its discovery by Faraday, 51, 77. Dio Cassius on the eruptions of Vesuvius, 399. Diodorus Siculus on the Phlegrrean Fields, 400. Disturbances, magnetic, table of, 130. Djebel el Tir, a volcano, 334. Dome-shaped and bell-shaped mountains, peculiar aspect given by, to the land- scape, 21S. Domite, origin of the term, 421. Dry fog of the summer of 1783, 393. Dnperrey, his observations on the mag- netic equator, 103. Earth, its size, configuration, and density, 14,35; interior heat, 37, 234 ; magnetic activity, 5<>; magnetic storms, 137; po- lar light, 146; reaction of the interior on the surface, 157 (see, also, Earthquakes, Volcanoes); thickness of the crust of, probably very unequal, 163. Earthquakes, variety of views as to their cause, 162 ; the impulse, 162 ; trans- latory movements, 167; subterranean noises, 171 : velocity of propagation, 172; distinguished, hut improperly, as Pla- tonic and Volcanic, 174; three groups Ofphen ena which indicate the i \i t- ence of one general cause, 1X6; list of memorable examples of these phenome- na, 176. Earth-waves in volcanic phenomena, 1G5. I i kern Asia, volcanoes of the islands of, 344. Edgecombe, Mount, a volcano, 255, 391; another in New Zealand, 372. Edinburgh, beautiful aurora observed at, L53. Edrisi on the land of Cog and Magog, 337. Eifel, extinct volcanoes of the, 221; two kinds of volcanic activity distinguish- able, 222; Mitscherlich on the minerals, 224; Ehrenberg on the infusoria, 227. Elburuz, as an extinct volcano, 339. Elevation, question of the influence of, on magnetic dip and intensity, 111 ; craters of, distinguished from true volcanoes, 217. Ellas, Mount, a volcano, 239, 391. Elliot, Captain, on the magnetic equator, 104. Ellipticity of the earth, speculations of the ancients on the, 29 ; Bessel's determina- tion, 29. El Nuevo, a volcano, 260. El Viejo, a volcano, measurements of, 260. El Volcancito, now a mountain of ashes, 302. Emanations from fumaroles, their nature, 396. Enceladus. See Typhon. England, volcanic phenomena in, 329, 450. Equator, magnetic. See Magnetic Equa- tor. Erebus, Mount, the volcano, 101, 237. Erman on the magnetic equator, 103 ; his researches on the volcanoes of Kamt- schatka, 340. Erupted blocks, 446. Eruption, masses of, considerations on, 215; craters of, 216. Eruptions of volcanoes, considerations on the general laws of, 243; varying heights to which matters are cast, 251. Eubcea, Straho's description of an earth- quake in, 215. Europe, active volcanoes of, 328; extinct volcanoes and volcanic phenomena, 221, 227, 320, 450. Fairweather, Mount, a volcano, 391. Faraday's discovery of the paramagnetic force of oxygen, 78; important results expected from it, 81, 98; on din-magnet- ism, 51, 78. Feldspar, variety of minerals comprised under the denomination of, 427, 442. Ferdinandea, the volcanic island, 328. Figure of the earth, attempts to solve the problem, 18; determinations of Besscl, V.); earlier observations, 20. Fissures caused by earthquake?, 166; vol- canic, 216, 218; volcanoes upheaved on fissures, 252. See Volcanoes. Fitzroy's magnetic observations, 71. Floods in rivers, prognostication of, 180. 456 INDEX. Fogo, volcano of the Ilha do, 249. Forbes, on the conductive power of differ- ent rocks, 41. Formosa, the turning-point of the lines of volcanic elevation in the islands of East- ern Asia, 346 ; its volcanoes, 353. Foucault's apparatus for demonstrating the rotation of the earth, 28. France, extinct volcanoes of, 227, 263. Franklin on frozen earth in the northwest of America, 50 ; his Arctic voyages, 65 ; search for him, 65. Franklin's Bay, volcano of, more properly a salse, 391. Fredonia, near Lake Erie, springs of in- flammable gas at, 204. Fremont's hypsometrical investigations in Northwest America, 3S3. Fremont's Peak, 388. French Alps, highest summit of the, 220. - Frozen earth, its geographical extension, 48. Fse-nan, a Chinese magnetic apparatus, 52. Fuego, Volcan de, described, 262. Fumaroles, various classes of, 396; Bun- sen on their products, 396. Fumniarole of the Tuscan Maremma, 202. Fused interior of the earth, 234. Galapagos, the, countless cone3 and ex- tinct craters, 3T4; pumice not found there, 375. Galera Zamba^ terrible eruptions of flames and terrestrial changes at, 20S. Gandavo, Fray Juan de, explores the cra- ter of Masaya, 247. Gas, volcanic exhalations of, inquiry into, 412. See, also, Springs. Gauss, his theory of terrestrial magnetism, 63. Gay-Lussac on the chemical causes of vol- canic phenomena, 163 ; on waves of com- motion and oscillation, 165. Gemellaro, his estimate of the height to which erupted bodies ascend from JEt na, 251. Geographical distribution of volcanoes, 893; an abnormal phenomenon in, no ticed, 405. Geological terms, origin of some, 421. Geysers, the, of Iceland described, 191. Gilbert, William, lays down comprehen sive views on the magnetic force of the earth, 58. Glassy feldspar. See Feldspar. Godivel, Lac de la, an extinct volcano, 227. Gog and Magog, Oriental myth of, 337. Gold, believed to be found in volcanoes, 248; descent into Masaya, in search of it, 248. Graham, his observation of the hourly va- riations of the magnetic force, 61. Graham Island, temporary formation of, 323. Grand Ocean, a term for the basin of the South Sea, objected to, 378. Granite, Mitscherlich's experiments on the melting point of, 234. Greece, has frequently suffered from earth- quakes, 170 ; great number of thermal springs, 170. Grenelle, the Artesian "Well of, 38. Ground temperature, observations on, 182. See, also, Frozen Earth. Guadeloupe, the Soufriere of, described, 395. Guagua-Pichincha, its meaning, 231. Gualatieri, volcano of, 271. Guanacaure, a volcano, 260. Guanahuca (Guanegue ?) volcano of, 274. Guettard's observations on extinct volca- noes, 310. Gunung, the Javanese term for mountain, 282. Gunung Tengger, a volcano in Java, vast size of its crater, 2S4. Guyot of Provins, his mention of the mag- netic needle, 54. Hair glass, a volcanic product, 367. Hall, Captain Basil, experiments to de- termine the mean temperature of places within the tropics, 42 ; measurement of the volcanoes of Old Guatemala, 262; his admirable description of Sulphur Isl- and, 353. Halley's theory of four magnetic poles, 59. Hallmann, his classification of springs, 196. Hansteen on the magnetism of the earth, 66. Harton, pendulum experiments at, relative to the density of the earth, 35. Hawaii, the volcanoes of, described, 369. Heat, distribution of, in the interior of our globe, 37 ; hypothesis of the depth of the fused interior of the earth below the present sea-level, 234. Hecla, the volcano, its aspect, 232; in- frequency of its eruptions, 243 ; how classified by Waltershausen, 330. Helena, St., volcanic phenomena of, 331. Helen's, St., Mount, a volcano, D90. Hell, the cold, of the Buddhists, 189. Hephsestos, Volcano, the holy isle of, 244. Herefordshire, sedimentary rocks of, 221. Hesse, on the volcanoes of Central Ameri- ca, 258. Hiera, volcanic phenomena upon, de- scribed by Aristotle, 219. Himalayan chain, four highest mountains of the, 271 ; known to the Greeks as the elongated Taurus, 406. Hobarton, magnetic observations at, 99. Ho-cheu, a volcano, also called Turfan, 335. Hood, Mount, an extinct volcano, 3S9. Hooker, Joseph, on the hot springs of Mo- may, 891. Hopkins on earthquakes, 162, 165, 168. Horary variation of the declination not ascribable to the heat of the sun, 81; maxima and minima, at various mag- netic stations, 107. Hornblende and augite, 443. Homitos, low volcanic cones, 176 ; farther notices of them, 29S, 303. Hornos or Hornitos. See Hornitos. Horsburgh, description of Barren Island by, 359. INDEX. 457 Hoschan and Ho-Uting, of Eastern A 209. Humboldt, Alexander von, observatioi temperature In Mexico and Peru, 43; magnetic observations by, 95; liin de- termination of the magnetic equator, 102; observations of polar bands, 150: visit 1 1 > the Bcene of the earthquake oJ Eiobamba, 100; observations of the phe- nomena of an eruption of Vesuvius, 174; barometrical measurements of the same mountain, 236 : his definition ofthe term "volcano," 272; his visit to Jorullo, 295, 301 ; the name Jura limestone in- troduced by, 436; apparatus employed by, in the New "World, 429; his miner- alogies! collections, 445; on the forma- tion of pumice, 450. Humboldt, Alexander von, works by, cited in the text or notes : Asie Centrale, 52, 100, 114, 143, 144, 170, 190, 202, 209, 210, 238, 279, 310, 334, 336, 33S, 349, 353, 409. Atlas G6ographique et Physique de la Nouvellc Espagne, 22S, 235, 250, 291, 404. Essai Geognostique sur le Gisement des Roches, 212, 302, 415, 425, 436, 442, 450. Essai sur la Geographic des Plantes, 239, 42T. Essai Politique sur la Nouvelle Es- pagne, 44, 1S9, 265, 277, 293, 294, 307, 379, 3S0, 391, 427. Exanicn Critique de l'Histoire de la Geographie, 52, 110, 123, 173, 233, 248. Fragmens de Geologie et de Climato- logie Asiatiques, 349, 354. Kleinere Schriften, 165, 205, 22S, 275, 315, 316, 321, 422, 446. Reeueild1 Observations Astronomiques, 43, 103, 139, 212, 239, 265, 29T, 307 Relation Historique du Voyage aux Regions Equinoxiales, 96, 110, 113, 115, 16T, 16S, 1T9, 23T, 23S, 286, 394, 396 399. Views' of Nature, 248, 343, 3S1, 399. Vues des Cordilleres, 20S, 228, 230, 235. Hypersthene rock, its employment for or- *■ namental purposes, 446. Ilypsometry of volcanoes, first group, 235 ; second group, 235; third group, 236; fourth group, 23S ; fifth group, 239. Iceland, the Geysers of, 190; mud springs, 203; volcanoes, 330. nha do Fogo, one of the Cape Vcrd Isl- ands, so called, 249. Impulse in volcanic phenomena, summary of views on, 162. Tnarima, 253. Inclination, magnetic, 100; maxima and minima, 107; secular variation, 109. Indian Ocean, volcanoes of the, 35S, 363. Infusoria, universal diffusion of the, 26. Intensity of the magnetic terrestrial force, 58, 61, 87. Interior of the earth, its reaction on the surface, 157. See, also, Earthquakes. Volcano Vol. V,— U Invariable temperature, Btratum of, ll. taenia, 252. isiami oi Desolation. BeeKerguelen'sIsl and. Islands, temporary, enumerated, 328. Islands and the shores of continents, great number of volcanoes found on, 4 [slanda ofthe Pacific, Dana's classification of, 865. [sluga, volcano of, 271. Izalco, volcano of, described, 248; itscrup- tions, 261. Iztaccihuatl, a volcano, meaning of tho name, 228. Jacob, valley of, on Ararat, 230. Jakutsk, mean annual temperature of, 46; extreme variations, 47. Jan Mayen, volcanoes ofthe island of, 330. •Japan, notice of tho volcanoes of, commu- nicated by Sicbold, 350. Jaques de Vitry, his mention ofthe mag- netic needle, 54. Java, large number of volcanoes in, 281; then' comparatively low elevation, 2S2 ; direction of the principal axis, 284 ; vast craters of some, 284 ; ribbed formation, 2S6; lava streams, 2SS; salses of, and mofette grottoes, described by Jung- huhn, 210 ; tertiary formations, 2S1. Javanese names of mountains explained, 290. Jefferson, Mount, 3S9. Jesso, island of, 349 ; its numerous _ vol- canoes, 350. Jorullo, rise of the volcano, 206, 291 ; de- scription of, by eye-witnesses, 292; vis- it of Humboldt to, 295, 300; visit of Buckart, and changes noticed by bun, 300. Juan Jayme, his scientific voyage, 50. Julia, the volcanic island, 328. Julius, the proconsul, 1S8. Jumnotri, hot well of, 190. Junghuhn, his researches in Java, 210, 2S1. Jura limestone, name introduced by Hum- boldt, 436. Kaimenes, upheaval of the three, 32S. Kamtschatka, the loftiest volcano of Asia found in, 284; described, 340. Kerguelen's Island, extinct craters of, 363. Kilauea, the great crater of, not a solfa- tara, 367. Kina Bailu, a lofty mountain of Borneo, 356. Kirghis Steppe, former water-courses of the, 408. Kljutschewsk, the highest A:iatic vol- cano, 2S4. Korai. See Corea. Kotzebue on the volcanic island of Um- nack, 220. Krafto. See Saghalin. Krapf, discovery of a volcano in Eastern Africa by, 333. Krasnajazarki, polar bands observed by Humboldt at, 150. Kreil on the magnetism of the moon, 85. Krusenstern on a presumed submarine vol- cano, 3; 458 INDEX. Kuen-liin, fire-springs of the, 409; the chain visited by the brothers Schlagint- weit, 409. Kuopho on the magnetic needle, 52. Kupffer on the frozen soil of Northern Asia, 50. * Kurile islands, active volcanoes of the, 349. La Berarde, remarkable position of the vil- lage of, 220. Lactacunga, repeated destruction of the town of, 322 : subterranean pumice quar- ries of, 321, 44T. Ladrone islands, volcanoes of, 370. Lagoni of the Tuscan Maremma, 202. Lamont deduces the law of the period of alterations of declination, 83. Lancerote, destruction of the islands of, 21S. Lava, recent, often perfectly similar to the oldest formations of eruptive rock, 216 ; important conclusion drawn therefrom, 216. Lava fields, various names for, 305. Lava streams rare in the volcanoes of the Cordilleras of Quito, 263 ; discovered in the eastern chain of the Andes, 2T9 ; also in Java, 2SS; their essential character, 2S9; of Auvergne, 311; of JEtna, 434; of Hecla, 231; of Ternate, 357. Lazarus, St., Mount, volcano, 255. Lelantus, in Euboea, eruption at, 215. Lemnos, destruction of the mountain Mo- sychlos in, 32S. Letronne on earthquakes in Egypt, 171. Leucite, 435, 444. Limari, volcano of, 272. Linschoten, notices the volcanoes of Ja- pan, 351. Lipara, the volcano, question of its iden- tity, 243. Lipari, the ancient Meligunis, 243; lava stream found in, 320. Llandeilo strata, volcanic fragments found in the, 329. Llanquihue, volcano of, 274. Log, ship's, introduction of the, an im- portant era in navigation, 57. Lombok, volcano on the isle of, 357. Lucia, St., the volcano of, 395. Lunar-diumal magnetic variation, 75. Liitke, Admiral, on the volcanoes of Kamt- schatka, 341. Luzon, active volcano in, 232. Maars, in Germany, 221; in Auvergne, 227. Macas. See Sangay. M'Laughlin, Mount, its height, 3S9. Madagascar, volcanic indications in, 360. Madeira, volcanic phenomena of, 330. Magnet, attraction, but not polarity of the, known to the Greeks and Romans, 51 ; variations of the, early known to the Chinese, 53; variation charts, 55; ho- rary periodical variations, 61. Magnetic disturbances, table of, 131. Magnetic equator, its position and change of form, 101; Humboldt's determina- tions, 102; Duperrey's observations, 103: Elliot's, 104. Magnetic intensity, 61 ; the knowledge of, due to Borda, 62 ; inclination chart, 62. Magnetic needle, early known to the Chi- nese, 52; its introduction to Europe, 5i; declination, 55. Magnetic observatories, 63. Magneto storms, 130. Magnetic wagon, the, of the Chinese, 52. Magnetism, early researches in, 56, 58; increased activity of observation in the 19th century, 62 ; table of magnetic in- vestigations, 64; influence of the moon, 84. Magnetism of mountain masses, 154. Makerston, Sir Thomas Brisbane's ob- servatory at, 120, 121. Malpais, a tenn applied to lava fields, 2S9. Mandeira, the volcano, 259. Mantschurei, extinct volcano in, 409. Marco Polo, date of his travels, 54; the mariner's compass known in Europe be- fore his time, 54. Marcou, on the ant-hills in the Eocky Mountains, 443. Maribios, los, a line of six volcanoes, 260. Mariner's compass known in Europe in the 12th century, 55; English ships guidei by it in 1345, 57. Marion's Island, traces of former volcanic action on, 362. Martinique, recent volcanic action in the island of, 395. Masaya, volcano of, described, 245; de- scent into the crater of, 247. Mauna Roa, a volcano of the Sandwich Islands, 23S; its height greatly exag- gerated, 23S ; meaning of the name, 234; described, 366; the largest volcano of the South Seas, 366; called also Mouna Loa, 366 ; its lava lake of Kilauea, 36S. Maypu, volcano of, 273. Medina, volcano of, 334. Meligunis. See Lipari. Methone, volcanic phenomena of the pen- insula of, 21S. Mexico, list of elevations of the table-land of, 3S2; volcano of, 376; considerations on the mountain chains, 379. See, also, New Mexico. Mica, 441. Micuipampa, mean annual temperature of, 44. Middendorf s two Siberian expeditions, 45; on the frozen soil of Northern Asia, 49. Minchinmadom, volcano of, 274. Mines, observations in, on magnetic dip and intensity, 114. Mit?cherlich on the minerals of the Eifel, 224; on the melting point of granite, 234. Mofette grottoes of Java, described by Junghuhn, 210. Momay, hot springs of, 189. Momobacho, the volcano, 259. Momotombo, the volcano, 260. Monkwearmo\ith, the coal mine at, 39. Mont Blanc, the Grand Plateau of, 220. Mont Pelvoux, the highest summit of the French Alps, 220. Monte del Diablo, in California. 389. INDEX. 159 Bfoon. extent of oar acquaintance vrtth the Orthocla e, 4 1 i, Burface ofthe.418; volcanoes and para- Osorno, volcano of, 274 sitic craters, II'.'; Kreil on tin' magnel ism of the, 84; Investigation of the sub- jecl by I reneral Sabine, 84 Mormons, Great Bait Lake of the, 883. Mortero, Cerro del, 302. M eenberg, the, an extinct volcano, 222, '-'•-'7. Mosychlos, the mountain, destruction of, 32a Mouna Loa. See Manna Boa, Mountain masses, magnetism of, 154. Mountain peaks, comparison of, with the bulging of the earth's surface, 31. Mousart (corruption of Muztag), equivalent to Sierra Nevada, 405. Moya cones of Pelileo, 166, 207. Mud springs of Iceland, '203. Mud volcanoes, 207, 255. Murchison, Sir E., on eruptive trap masses, 320, 451. Muriatic acid furnaroles, 397. Mutia, apparatus of, 42S. Naphtha springs, 190. Negropont. See Euhoea. Neptune, connection of, with earthquakes, 173. New Britain, volcanoes of, 371. New Caledonia, volcanic action absent from, 372. New Guinea, volcanoes of, 371. New Mexico, barometric levelings in, 3S0 ; list of heights, 3S2. New Zealand, geology of, 371 ; volcanoes, 372. Niphon, recorded volcanic eruptions in, 350. Nodes, magnetic, their changes of position, 102, 104. Noises from volcanoes, differences observed in, 250; extraordinary distances at which heard, 251. Norman, Robert, determines the inclina- tion of the magnetic needle in London, 5S. Northwest America, volcanoes of, 377: hypsometry of, 3S2. No variation (magnetic), points and lines of, 55, 59. Obsidian, 447; its cavities and air-hole3, 449. Oeriifa, in Iceland, fearful eruptions of, 330. Oeynhausen, temperature of the salt spring at, 39. Oisans, natural amphitheatre of, its vast extent, 220. Oligoclase, 439. Olot, extinct volcanoes of, 405. Olympus, Mount, in America, 390. Omato, Volcan de, 271. Ometepec, an active volcano, 259. Orinoco, high temperature of its waters at certain seasons, 170. Orizaba, a volcano, measurement of the peak of, 230; lava field of, 305. Oron, fresh-water lake of, seals found in the, 40s. Orosi, the volcano, 259. Overweg's researches on volcanic phenom- ena in Africa. 83 !. Ovid, vulcanic pi leuoincnaclcarly described by, 'J 10. < hviiyhee. See Hawaii. Pacaya, eruptions of, 262. Pacific Ocean, tin; term u Grand Ocean" improperly applied to the, 37^; compar. atively small Dumber of active volcan* 364; grouping of its islands by Dana, 365. See, also, South Pacific Ocean, South Sea. Panguipulli, Volcan de, 274. Papagayos, remarkable stonns so called, 257. Paramagnetism exhibited by oxygen gas, 51; importance of the discovery, 78, SI, 98. Paramos, their elevation and vegetation, 27S. Parasitic craters of the moon, 419. Parinacota, volcano of, 271. Passuchoa, the extinct volcano of, 317. Patricius, the bishop, his theory of central heat, 1S8. Paul, St., volcanic island of, 360. Pele's hair, volcanic glass so called, 367. Pelileo, eruption of the Moya of, 106, 207. Pendulum, vibrations of the, applied to determine the figure of the earth, 23; Sabine's expedition, 26 ; other observers, 26 ; the form of the earth not exactly determinable by such means, 29; Airy's experiments at Harton, 35. Pentland, his discovery of lava streams in the eastern chain of the Andes, 279. Perlite, 323. Pertusa, hot springs of, 188. Peru and Bolivia, series of volcanoes of, 276. Peshan, volcano of, 335, 406. Petermann's notices from Overweg, of vol- canic phenomena in Africa, 334. Peteroa, volcano of, 273. Phaselis, flame of the Chimsera, near, 203. Philippines, volcanoes of the, 232. Phlegracan Fields, ancient descriptions of the, 400. Pic de Nethou, the highest summit of the Pyrenees, 220. Pic of Timor, formerly an ever-active vol- cano, 358. Pichincha, remarkable form of, 230; ascent of, by Humboldt, 231 ; visited by Wisse, 231 ; its height, 238. Pichu-Pichu, Volcan de, 271. Pico, the volcano, 236 ; eruptions of other volcanoes in the Azores apparently de- pendent on, 330. Piedmont, trembling of the earth in, 1 76. Pilla, on theleucite crystals of Rocca Mon- fina, 434. Pisoje, basalt-like columns of, 426. Pithecusse, Bokh on the, 253. Pitt, Mount, in America, 3S9. Plato, on the Pyriphlegethon, 37, 254; on the magnetic chain of rings, 51. Polar light. See Aurora. 460 INDEX. Polarity, the force of, unknown to the Greeks and Romans, 51. Poles, magnetic, traditions regarding, 56 ; Halley's variation chart, 60. Polybius, his knowledge of Strongyle, 244. Polynesia and similar divisional terms, ob- jected to, 364. Pomarape, volcano of, 271. Popocatepetl, a volcano, 239 ; meaning of the name, 22S; determinations of the height of, 427. Porphyries of America, 443. Porphyry of the Puy de Dome, its peculiar character, 421. Porto Cabello, hot springs of, 190. Pozzuoli, eruption from the solfatara of, 395. Procida or Prochyta, 252. Proclus on earthquakes, 173. Pulu Batu, lava streams of, 35S. Puroex Pompejanus, 402. Pumice not found at Jorallo, 301; abun- dant in Lipari, 320 ; the pumice quarries of Lactacunga, 321 ; of Cotopaxi, 322 ; isolated eruptions of, 323; found in Madagascar, 360; and in the island of Amsterdam, 361; Humboldt's view of its formation, 450. Piunice eruption of the Eifel, 226. Punhamuidda, volcano of, 274. Pusambio, the river, acidified by sulphur, 194. Pyrenees, highest summits of the, 220, 221. Pyriphlegethon, Plato's geognostic myth. 37, 254. Quelpaert's island, a volcano, 353. Quesaltenango, Volcan de, 262. Quetelet on daily variations of tempera- ture, 41. Quindiu. See Azufral de Quindiu. Quito, observations on the older rocks of the volcanic elevated plains of, 415. Quito and New Granada, the group of vol- canoes of, 266. Rainier (or Regnier) Mount, an active vol- cano, 390. Rains, regions of summer, autumn, and winter, ISO. Raking of mountain chains explained, 278. Rammelsberg's analysis of the Chimborazo rock, 431. Ranco, volcano of, 274. Rapilli, 223. Raton Mountains, extinct volcanoes of the, 3S6. Regnier, Mount, an active volcano, 391. Rehme, the Artesian well at, 39. Reich's experiments to determine the dens- ity of the earth, 34; the subject more lately investigated by Airy, 35. Results of observations in the telluric por- tion of the physical description of the universe, 13. Revillagigedo, volcanic islands of, 266. Ribbed formation of the volcanoes of the isl and of Java, 2S6; analogous phenomona of the mantle of the Somma of Vesuvius, 2S8. ' Richer, observations on the pendulum, by, 23. ' Rigaud, Professor, on the proportion of water and terra firma, 363. Rindjani, a volcano, its height, 357. Riobamba, terrible earthquake at, 161, 166, 167. Rio Vinagre, described, 194. Rock-debris, 311. Rocky Mountains, the chain described, 3S5; traces of ancient volcanic action, 387 ; parallel coast ranges, still volcanic, 3S8. Ronquido and bramido, distinguished, 250. Rope-boring of the Chinese, 209. Rose, Gustav, his classification of volcanic rocks, 420, 423. Ross, Sir James Clark, his Antarctic voy- age, 75, 141. Ross, John, his Polar voyages, 65. Rucu-Pichincha, its meaning, 231. Ruido, el gran, 166. Sabine, Major-General, his pendulum ex- pedition, 26 ; on the horary and annual variations, SI; on the influence of the moon on terrestrial magnetism, S4. Sacramento Butt, an extinct crater, 3S9. Sakhalin, called Krafto by the Japanese, 345.* Sahama, Volcan de, 271. Salses and naphtha springs, 199. Salt Lake, Great, of the Mormons, 3S3. San Bruno, rotatory motion of the obeli-ka before the monastery of, in Calabria, 160. San Clemente, volcano of, 274. Sandwich Islands, a volcanic Archipelago, 366 ; the volcanoes, 233 ; height of some greatly exaggerated, 238. Sangai or Sangay, the volcano, 239; its position, 239 ; the most active fof the South American volcanoes, 249 ; its erup- tions observed by Wisse, 175. Sanidine, 443. San Miguel Bosotlan, a volcano, 261. San Pedro de Atacama, Volcan de, 272. San Salvador, a volcano, eruptions of, 261. Santa Cruz, volcano of, 369. Santorin, volcanic eruption of, 219. San Vicente, a volcano, eruptions of, 261. Saragyn, hot springs of, 325. Sawelieff on magnetic inclination, 111. Schagdagh, the perpetual fires of the, 201. Schergin's shaft, at Jakntsk, 45. Schiwelutsch, a volcano, its peculiar form, 237. Schlagintweit, the brothers, observations on springs, 1S3; traverse the Euen-liin, 410. Schrenk on the frozen soil in the countiy of the Samojedes, 48. Sea, distance of volcanic activity from the, statements of, examined, 404; volcanic eruption observed in the, 354. Seals found in the Caspian Sea and the Sea of Baikal, 40S; also in the distant fresh- water lake of Oron, 408. Secular variation of the magnetic inclina- tion, 109. Semi-volcanoes, 396. Senarmont, his preparation of artificial minerals, 195. INDEX. 4G1 Seneca on volcanoes, 210. Sesarga, vol< B70. Shasty Mountains, basaltic lavas fount! in the, 889. Siebengebirge, trachyte of the, 926] geo- logical topography, I- 1. Siebold on ti>" volcanoes of Japan, ">I9. i Madre, erroneous notions regarding the, 379, "'s:j ; east and vrest chains, :;s '■■ Silla Velnda, volcano of, 273. Silurian and Lower Silurian formations, eruptive trap-masses of the, 329, 450. Silver in sea-water, its presence how mani- fested, 411. Sitka or Karanow, 45, 255. Smyth, Captain, on the Columbretes, 329 ; determination of the height of ./Etna, 237. Society Islands, the geology of, recom- mended for investigation, 373. Soconusco, the great volcano of, 263. Soffioni, the, of Tuscany, 202. Soil, frozen, in Northern Asia, 44; its ge- ographical extension, 48. Solfatara, the term inapplicable to the cra- ter of Kilauea, 307. Solo islands, character of the, 355. Solomon's islands. See Sesarga. Soufriere dc la Guadeloupe, the, described, 395. South Pacific Ocean, great number of vol- canoes of the, 403. South Sea, volcanoes of the, 304; its isl- ands incorrectly described as scattered, 364; the term "Grand Ocean" objected to, 37S. Southern Asia, volcanoes of the islands of, 354. Spain, extinct volcanoes of, 404. Spartacus and his gladiators, their en- campment on Vesuvius, 399. Special results of observation in the do main of telluric phenomena, 5. Springs, rise of temperature in, during earthquakes, 109 ; difficulty of classify- ing into hot and cold, ITS ; method pro- posed, 178; considerations on tempera- ture, ISO; heights at which they are found, 183; boiling springs rare, 1S9; the Geyser and Strokkr, 190; gases, 193; Hallmann's classification, 196; va- por and gas springs, salses, 19S. Stokes, on the density of the earth, 35. Stone streams distinguished from lava streams, 289. Strabo, on the figure of the earth, 30 ; on lava, 216 ; on a double mode of produc- tion of islands, 252. Strokkr, the, of Iceland, described, 191. Stromboli, description of, 243; periods of its greatest activity, 244. Strongyle, described by Polybius, 244. Strzeiecki, Count, on the basin of Kilauea, 36S. Styx, the waters of, 194; visits to their source, 195. Submarine volcano, presumed, in the At- lantic Ocean, 332 ; one observed in the Pacific, near Chiloe, 272. Subterranean noises, 171 ; attempts to de- termine the rate of their transmission, 172. Sulphur I land, described by Captain Basil Hail. 863. Sulphurated hydrogen, question as to Its existence In certain lumaroles, 897. Sumatra, the Giava Minore of .Marco Polo, 356. Sumbava, violent eruption of the volcano of, 367. Sun, magnetism of the, 84 Sunda islands, volcanoes of the, 356, 357. Swalahos, .Mount, an extinct volcano, 390. Taal, active volcano of, its singular po- sition, 232; small elevation, 233. Table-land of South America, of Mexico, and Thibet, 3S0; list of elevations, 382. Tacora, Volcan de, 271. Tafua, the peak of, 373. Tahiti, the geology of, recommended for investigation, 373. Tajamulco, the volcano of, 262. Taman, mud volcanoes of the peninsula of, 207. Taranaki, a volcano in New Zealand, 372. Taurus, elongated, the Thian-shan, includ- ing the Himalayas, known as the, to the Greeks, 405. Tazenat, Gouffre de, an extinct volcano, 227. Telica, Volcan de, described, 260. Telluric phenomena, special results of ob- servation in the domain of, 5. Temboro, a volcano, its violent eruption in 1815, 357. Temperature, invariable, stratum of, 41; mean annual, how determined in the tropics, 42 ; observations of, in Mexico and Peru, by Humboldt, 43 ; frozen soil in Northern Asia, 44; Schergin's shaft, 45. See Interior of the Earth. Temperature, rise of, in springs, during earthquakes, 169. Tenei iffe, the feldspar of the trachytes of, 427 ; notice of an eruption on, by Colum- bus, 444. Ternate, violent eruptions andlava streams in, 357. Tertiary formations in Java, 2S1. Thermal springs, their connection with earthquakes, 170. Thian-schan, the volcanic mountain chain of, 337 ; peculiarity of the position of the volcano, 405; the chain known to the Greeks as the elongated Taurus, 405. Thibet, hot springs of, 189 ; geyser, 191. Tierra del Fuego, volcanoes of, 2S0. Timor, Pic of, formerly an ever-active vol- cano, 35S. Tollo, the pumice hill of, 44S. Tonga Islands, active volcanoes of the, 369. Toronto, magnetic observations at, 99. Trachyte, origin of the word, 421; fre- quently used in too confined a sense, 422; farther remarks, 437. Tractus chalyboeliticos, what, 00. Translatory movements in earthquakes, 107. Trap, masses of, Sir E. Murchison on, 329, 451. Trass formation, 225. Trincheras, hot springs of, 189. 462 INDEX. Tristan da Cunha, a volcanic island, 331. Tshashtl Mountains, basaltic lavas of the, 3S9. Tucapel, volcano of, 2T3. Tupungato, measurement of the peak of, 2T3. Turbaco, the Volcancitos of, 204. Tuscan Maremma, volcanic phenomena of the 202. Typhon, fable of, 253. Umnack, volcanic island of, 220. Unalavquen, volcano of, 214. Under currents of cold water in the tropics, 1S6. United States scientific expeditions, bene- fits to natural history from the, 37S. Uvillas or Uvinas, Volcan de, 211. Val del Bove, on iEtna, remarkable infer- ence regarding, 215. Valleys of elevation, what, 193. Vancouver, Mount, 3S9. Vapor and gas springs, 212. Variation charts, their early date, 55. Vegetation, limit of, in Northern Asia, 45. Vesuvius, phenomena of an eruption of, as observed by Humboldt, 114 ; barometri- cal measurements by the same, 235; lengthened series of eruptions of, 39S ; described by Strabo, 398 ; by Dio Cassius, 399; by Diodorus Siculus, 400; by Vi- truvius, 400 ; difference of constitution of the old and the recent lavas, 444 ; en- campment of Spartacus and his gladia- tors on, 399. Vesuvius, valley furrows on the mantle of the Soruma of, 28S. Vidua, Count Carlo, his melancholy death, 357. Vilcanoto, peak of, 279. Villarica, Volcan de, 274. Vincent, St., the volcano of, 394. Vincent of Beauvais, his mention of the magnetic needle, 54. Virgenes, las, extinct volcanoes in Old Cal- ifornia, 3S9. Vitruvius, notice of Vesuvius by, 400. Vivarais, extinct volcanoes of the, 263. Volcan Viejo, a crater in Southern Peru, 271. Volcancitos of Turbaco, described, 204. Volcanic districts, different aspects pre- sented by, 214. Volcanic islands in the South Atlantic Ocean, 332. Volcanic reaction, bands of, 170. Volcano, what intended under the term, by Humboldt, 272. Volcano, the island styled " the holy isle of Hephaastos," 244. Volcanoes, considered according to the dif- ference of their formation and activity, 214; definite language of modem sci- ence, 217 ; number of, on the earth, 393 ; then* great number in the Eastern Ar- chipelago, 355 ; hypsometiy of, 235 ; lin- ear arrangement of, 254 ; table of differ- ences in structure and color of the mass in certain, 432; the Mexican system, 264; sequence, latitude, and elevation, 2GG ; particulars of the five groups of, in the New Continent, 270; list of active, 2G3; geography of active, examined, 32S; geographical distribution of, 402; open in historical periods, list of, 330; semi- volcanoes, 396. Volcanoes of the moon, 418. Vulcanicity, definition of, 158. Wales, volcanic phenomena in, 329. Walferdin on Artesian wells, 3S. 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