ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New YorK STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURF AND HOME ECONOMICS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY oo University Library Lisi SF 465. bantams Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000115232 FrankW DeLancey. Richly Illustrated Price OO cts, A to Z OF Pigeons and Bantams BY FRANK W. DeLANCEY ILLUSTRATED 1910 PUBLISHED BY ITEM PUBLISHING COMPANY SELLERSVILLE, PA. Publishers of THE POULTRY ITEM E. E. ALTHOUSE FRANK W. DELANCEY President and General Manager Editor and Advertising Manager W. S. SCHLICHTER JOHN L. PURPLE Secretary and Treasurer Associate Editor and Circulation Manager @ Sr“Go Ag-2.69] COPYRIGHTED BY THE ITEM PUBLISHING COMPANY 1910 COW?) EIN TS. PART I.—PIGEONS. Advance of the Industry. Bigiewielscvei ss suaia dk a vata nce anewedy wseice a History and Origin of the Different ‘Varieties. sac Seis ee a8 fees. ME First Step in Squab Culture. SAS SHE ahd Abs ROR Beth ee aes ares “saitescets 1 Location for Breeding Houses. . eS ane Oe eee Sore Sar erdarengoerae scblateide, sctareve’. How to Mate... 22... ... ccc ce ee eee S58Coleiehy falas sid vane asalhas Gee ee ee How to Tell Males from Females.............5 Sins c is igs eee at 19 How and When to Feed.......... PaO RAM Are a eae ees tees Ba -. 20 What to Feed.......... Se Bisse ei ea aan os SxtAvcdoiconies etek ominous 21 System of Feeding...............0050. Se crenata Pent renee! . 30 The Flying or Racing Homer............ ccc cee sce cesceees ieee 33 Training the Flying or Racing Homer.......... LWP ES Ze wes yo. 34 The SHOW HOME si. cc setes gta 6 eee als Ba een g Wie OR R8 EW ow Be ae. 36 Jacobins ........... Bee ye ees Se Grete aver ananeued se amereantedeseheuda aa ehehe 55 Fantails ........ Sicetap eee larder eceeycah Meee Nese -o ia Shaias usenet peirahinn eorantenatavtaracye .. 38 Pouters ........ ar SS Wider aetna we scat aigh sansa sak acca GiEah ee nenieh a Tak ete awlarimn te ial La) Ane Soha Re 40 MAS DISS | seciriecs race ete Re aan s Boa Oe Rt, I Ga Sok OIE Bee Shee ated Wa 8 42 English Owls....... Sole er eag Fd areca ed oa ea eas sep east Rup aoa eR eh oe 43 ERA DV GS) 2st ea Aad Se tov tid taoca dio ke Ge ene stchace Ac aue Seal naa Aa ake ae ae Cerna 44 APCNANGEIS®: 6 aiicecasciue Saag ae aiada diiron wer Skee Soh a Paes Os GR bodade war a aeue se 44 Bar 5-4 ie Mehaigatosiwence PA Rew Re eS ERSRERM YS SRPEES EERE ROR 45 English, Carriers se dccci wag yd wane es ab Be BGI SRS BARD SRE RS 46 THE. ANCWEPD «doe 3 aie SG eer id Wire aa Ae tee csiG seer Sar 8 Spa Ba aon . 46 TITAS OONS sts es See esse ace a ak 0 as sal eciaaaetod wa awa emcee eve as and wey bana paeah Gifderdcal area ~. 48 WP HELO E Se ala ee ek hw oS a ee AS Ck Be OS teen Oe MPL TILT aioe facies esse cas sas ia res 0 Raids esa alnshea ate) WG a Stereo ed ote rere rere ne er . 50 Poelish Turpits.a< bane eee oe oe e4S w So ea oR perap eb SG BUS eee 54 CarneaUx “2% saiacises eats ee ee eee SERS Pe Baas Gia Ma ee Alas 5S SWB TO WSi secs cccansasetaravan eiseu di ncashesien o cattatans ab aoa seaanceked tixaha eden Sate om ate ahanatigtedstesmebmenn 58 Satinettes and Blondinettes.............. Ren ee er en ee 58 Diseases and Their RemedieS........... 0. cee eee ee cere eens 59 PART II.—BANTAMS. The Advance of the Industry............. padi ers apeiala eG ee eas 63 Bantams and Bantam FancierS.......... cece eee ee ee eee eens 64 Starting im tHe WAN CY once ase sce eda seca te ai ietienias cece el See ocean anew Suse OF -Housing and Mating Bantams... ...... cece ee eee ere ees 69 That Bantam House..... or 2k aa Ga ie Hae ea eee sivas ei Geode wR ee lpas 70 Breeding Fancy Bantams....... cece ecw e cee cece enter cent eens Te Variety Bantams: sc sé-ouais eels ete es OBE WS es an eee aS 74 Black and White Rose CombS.......... cc cece ce eee newer eee vas) Sebrights—Golden and Silver....... ah cnet erg} SERS hora ai care LCL rats ia BPs 79 Sebrights and Their Origin... 1.0... . cee cece ee ee eee eee ea 82 Cuckoo or Scotch Gray Bantams........ see eee eee eee eee nee 84 Popularity of Cochin Bantams...........c cee ee ee eee eens 86 Brahma—Booted and Polish Bantams...............-+..00% 87, 88 Japanese Bantams... 2... cece eee er eee teen tees 88 Game Bantams—Points of Value........0. cece e neers Sighs Gis ere Zs 89 A New Variety Game Bantams............4.. ica taaky Aah aNE Wek Events 91 Malay Bantams erica sei ise cece seek. wider bu dar ns MC ere sicetiartond Scenes eaeee Sd aR ENS ahs . Ol The Bantam for the Fancie? «3-24 .i4c6% cee eve cee ieee eis eee ss 93 Different Varieties of Game Bantams........... ccc e eee ee veee 94 Cleanlitiess: oi. 4.5 causal tr eR Be Phe wes SoS WHOIS Rae es oes 96 FRANK W. DELANCEY INTRODUCTORY. In presenting this book, entitled “A to Z of Pigeons and Bantams,” I feel positive its contents will be a great assistance to the old and experienced and a valuable guide to the novice and beginner. It contains information and illustrations that will enable the reader to intelligently start in the business and to successfully conduct it, along lines that are safe and consistent with good business methods. For the past several years increased interest has been taken in Bantams and Pigeons; for every dollar that was invested five years ago $10 are invested to-day. And for every Bantam and Pigeon that was exhibited five years ago there are ten to-day. The pleasing part is, the business has been advancing from year to year, and will continue to do so. The writer has always taken an interest and never lost an opportunity in promoting this interest. Hence the presentation of this boiled-down and up-to-date booklet, describing and illustrating the different vari- eties and how to successfully handle them, and it is the sincere wish of the author that this book may increase the interest in Pigeons and Bantams. PART I. PIGEONS. The Advance of the Industry From the Fancy as Well as Squab-Producing Birds. Several years ago the country had what was called a Pigeon craze, and many thousands of people who knew nothing about the business invested heavily and lost heavily. The result was hundreds of thousands of birds were put on the market and sold for whatever was offered. The market was flooded and the business was looked upon as a farce. But thanks be to the men who stood by the guns and had confidence that when the sur- plus stock was exhausted the business would be on a staunch basis. This proved to be the result, and to-day we have many ‘successful pigeon plants, and the product in the way of squabs commands as steady and high a price as when the craze was on. From a fancy point of view the growth of the business has been different. Its growth was steady; new men went into the busi- ness for sport and pleasure as well as for profit. Specialty clubs doubled their membership; the exhibits at the shows increased, and interest seemed to run as high as in poultry. Prices for good show specimens commanded as high a figure as poultry. The business advanced slowly but surely, and to-day Pigeons are one of the leading features of our fall and winter exhibitions. History and Origin of the Different Varieties. Sir Isaac Newton said, “To myself I seem to have been as a child playing on the seashore, while the immense ocean of truth lay unexplored before me, and I have only gathered a few grains of sand.” How true this is when we compare it to the origin of the different varieties of Pigeons, and all that can be learned con- cerning the first pair is the scattered fragments from the works 8 of ancient writers. Noah first sent out of the ark a raven, but it did not return. He then sent forth a dove, and it returned. In seven days the dove was sent again, and it returned with an olive leaf. After another seven days he ‘sent forth the dove again, and it did not return. This is the first record we have of Pigeons being used as messengers. We can learn the following from Scripture, Gen. xv, 9: And he said unto him take an heifer of three years old and a she goat of three years old and a turtle dove and a young pigeon. St. Luke ii, 24: And to offer a sacri- fice; a pair of turtle doves and two young pigeons. Lev. i, 14: And if the burnt sacrifice for his offer to the Lord be of fowls he shall bring his offering of turtle doves or young pigeons. Hence we can take from this that where fowls are men- tioned for food it also includes doves and pigeons, hence for ages squabs have always been considered a staple article of food, and also an article that was sold as a food ages ago. St. John ii, 4: And found in the Temple those that sold oxen and sheep and doves. This portion of Scripture leads us to believe that pigeons were kept by the natives and taken to the matkets to sell. Of the countless varieties of pigeons we have to-day nearly 150 varieties, all originated, according to Darwin, from the Blue Rock Dove, a descendant of the original dove that Noah left fly from the ark and returned with the olive branch. The leading breeds are the Jacobin, Fan-Tail, Duchess, Tumblers, Turbits, Owls, Barbs, Trumpeters, Nuns, Archangels, Swallows, Car- riers, Satinettes, Dragoons, Show, Homer, Shields. The First Steps in Squab Culture. Webster tells us that a squab is a young pigeon or dove. Of course there are different kinds of squabs, so far as quality is concerned, and quality governs the price the same as any other business. It is the “quality” kind that we wish to talk about here. No doubt many pigeon breeders have never seen a good marketable squab, and it is for this class of readers that this article is prepared. I would not advise an inexperienced person to invest all in the pigeon business. To do so would be throwing good money away, for this business, like any other, must be learned, and it is the little details and thorough knowledge that spell success In the first place, secure all the knowledge you can Seneeraine 9 the business, and instead of starting with fifty pairs of birds start with ten and learn to handle them successfully. Increase your flock according to the increase of your knowledge. I would not go to the expense of erecting a costly building if I had an old building or part of one that could be utilized to make the start. In arranging the building be sure it is so that the morn- ing and noonday sunshine is on the loft. Sunshine and fresh air go a long way toward success. Have the building thoroughly whitewashed, and it is vali to mix a little carbolic acid in the lime. This is an excellent \ S ntact See: ‘4 [ 5 t f { An Up-to-date Building. preventative against mites and helps to ward off disease. You can arrange small boxes not less than 12x12 throughout the building and provide two boxes for each pair of birds. Guard against rats and make every effort to make the loft rat-proof. Construct your outside fly according to circumstances. It need not be over 8 feet high and other dimensions according to location and the number of birds. For the beginner the large: squab breeding homer is what you want. Do not buy bargain lots, as they are generally old, worn-out birds, and you can make up your mind that something is wrong or they would not be , ite) sold at a sacrifice. Place your.order with a reliable party and good goods can be secured for little money. Insist on mated birds about two years old and not over three, and good stock can be secured at $1.50 and $2.00 per pair. Only good, sound, well seasoned grain should be fed to the old birds. Furnish the old birds the proper rations, along with grit, charcoal, lime, sand and salt, and they will produce the quality kind of squabs. One of the most important things is the banding and keep- ing an accurate record of your flock, and this can be easily done by getting a small blank book and notirig the numbers of the birds. For example: 121. R.-Chy. C. 140 B. Ch. H. The 121 R. Ch. C. means the bird with band No. 121 is a red checkered cock bird, and is mated to bird with band No. 140, blue checkered hen. You can then leave blank spaces after this entry to keep record of this pair of birds for one year, or as long as you like. You will find this record a good one to begin with and where the number of birds is not too great to demand a shorter system. Number your-nest boxes from one up to the amount of nests you have in the loft. Keep a supply of tobacco stems in the loft for the birds to build their nests in. This makes an excellent nesting material, and no lice or mites will bother the squabs when it is used. Pure, fresh, clear water is half the battle, and have their drinking can so arranged that the birds cannot bathe in it. Education—Value of Details and the Points That Count in the Squab Business. The squab industry of this country represents many thous- ands of dollars, and many thousands of dollars have been lost from lack of education—not knowing the details and careless- ness in attending promptly to the points that count. Fortu- nately, the squab industry as a business is now conducted on a safe and sane basis, and those people who were led by misguid- ing literature to believe that there is a fortune in squabs and invested their all, found out that the pigeon business must be learned the same as any other. These are the people that have II dropped out of the business by disposing of their stock by time and the shooting match, and with the passing away of this worth- less stock the market has been steady, and those who started in the proper way and were not afraid of work and hung on are now conducting a successful and profitable business. As I view the future and catch a glimpse of this great and growing industry, I am firm in the belief that it offers almost as good an opportunity to earn money and have a business of your own as anything you may take up, but you must work hard and Almost Ready for Market. work long, just the same as you would have to do in any other business. Raising squabs for market is not a new venture, for even Scripture quotes where they were sold in the market places. It is also one of the most fascinating and profitable occupations a man or woman can engage in, the work being to a very large extent light. For this reason many have engaged in it whose health would not permit inside work. It is not by any means a get-rich-quick occupation, but if it is conducted, on business principles will return a handsome per cent. on the money I2 invested. The prices on squabs fluctuate nearly as much as on poultry, and squabs are fast taking the place of young chickens. For the amount invested they pay better than poultry, with less space used and less expensive buildings. There are no incuba- tors and brooders to tend, no little ones for the cats to make a meal on, no feeding of chicks. The parent birds attend to every detail in incubation and brooding, and in four weeks you have the finished product, ready for market. The owner has the birds under his constant care and observation, and the more attention given to the birds as their habits are learned the The Proper Way of Holding a Pigeon. greater the profits. Perhaps the reader is not aware that the eggs of ‘pigeons hatch sooner than any other domestic bird, requiring 18 days, while it requires 21 days for hen eggs, 26 days for guinea eggs, 29 days for ducks, turkeys, geese, and pea fowls 30 days. If you have bred any of the above, count the time it takes to hatch the eggs and the time, feed and attention it re- quires to rear them to market size, and then consider that 48 days after the pigeon lays its eggs the squab is ready for the market. The demand for squabs will increase, as we now find them. 13 on the menus of all the leading hotels and restaurants, and people who never knew what a squab was a few years ago are now paying anywhere from 75 cents to $1.50 for an order of squabs. One thing that will cause an increase in the demand for squabs is the scarcity of game and the stringent laws that forbid it to be sold, and the supply and demand will regulate the price of squabs in the future. One thing sure is that the business cannot be conducted unless you apply strict business principles and keep a strict account of each pair of working birds, as some birds produce more and better squabs than others. The ones that are not paying soon eat up the profit of the workers. Hence it is necessary to know the birds that are making you money and retain their progeny for the enlargement of your flock and to take the place of the slow workers that do not come up to your ideal. We all must agree that time is money, and time spent in hunting a hatchet, shovel or scoop is lost; hence the advantage of having a place for everything. One of the main points in producing the best possible re- sults is regularity in attending to your birds. You must re- member that pigeons are intelligent creatures, and will very soon learn to know when to expect you to attend to their wants. Have a regular time to attend to every detail. Do not make any unnecessary noise. Teach the birds to know you and you will soon have them to fly on your shoulder and have a happy and contented lot of birds. System means everything, and with- out it and not living up to it. means failure. If the proper start is made with good birds they should give you a net annual profit of $1.50 to $1.75 per pair. The squab business has an advantage over any other business, for in other lines it keeps a man’s brain in a constant whirl thinking and planning in order that he can compete with his competitors, thus requiring a modern busi- ness training. Squab raising does not require a course in a business college to be successful. Its main requirements are a careful study of the requirements of your birds, studying their every need and a time and a system to do the things that must be done. Another ‘very important point is the finding of a market where you can get the best returns for your goods, and last, but not least of the points that count, is to make up your mind to work and to know hot what the word failure’means. Let the stumbling blocks that 14 you encounter to-day be stepping stones to use in broadening your business and combat the difficult problems that are bound to arise. Location for Breeding Houses. A sandy soil is best upon which to build a pigeon house, as it absorbs moisture and dries off very quickly. The land should slope a little so as to drain-the water during rain and keep the floors from getting damp. Only a slight elevation is necessary to keep the under part of the building pure and sani- tary. Dampness causes and aggravates a host of diseases, such Arrangement of Nests. as canker, diarrhoea, etc. Success with a pigeon house built without a good substantial floor is doubtful. Always have the buildings at least six inches from the ground, so as to allow a free current of air to circulate, in order to dry out the dampness and rain water quickly. A southern exposure must be preserved for a building thus located allows the sun to shine upon it atid into it from early morning till late in the afternoon. Sunlight kills the disease germs, and if a building is so built towards the south it will be many degrees warmer in winter than one built in any other exposure. To add to the comfort and safety of the birds it will be found excellent to reduce the temperature in 15 summer if a row of shade trees be planted in front of them. They will also be advantageous in keeping the drinking water cool, for the sun’s rays soon make water warm and unfit for the birds to drink in a very short time. Neatness of a building costs but little, so I would advise having them whitewashed at least every spring. Breeding Lofts. The building should be built in such a way that an exten- sion could be added if needed. I will give the reader an idea how to construct a building 32 feet in length, 10 feet in width, 7 feet high in the rear and 9 feet high in front. Sixteen-foot boards should be used, so as not to allow much waste. This building can be extended any desired length. The illustrations on opposite and following pages give a view of houses, each of which are almost 100 feet in length. For making the frame- work 3x4 hemlock scantling should be used, and for the joists and rafters 2x4 will answer. Both rafters and joists should not be over 2 feet apart. The sides of the building and ends should be stripped with wide laths (upon the outside) to prevent cold and. draughts to enter in winter. The roof.should be of hemlock boards a foot wide, over which tack three-ply felt roofing. This sort of roofing will last many years under favorable conditions, and it should be tarred with slag cement (a preparation espe- cially prepared for it) once or twice a year. I find this roof far better than slate, which is entirely too heatening in summer. Slate retains the heat much longer than felt. Shingles, if they are preferred, can be used and answer far better than either of the above, but the cost is somewhat of a hindrance. An opening should be left in the front and back of each pen, near the roof, to allow ventilation; in fact, between each rafter is better, for this will allow the heat which accumulates in summer to be carried off. In winter these openings should all be closed up. Very little ventilation is needed in winter. In each pen a win- dow at least 2x3 should be put midway from the floor to the roof. A double sash will be found better, although one is suffi- cient. These windows should be made so as to be easily slid back when required on the inside. Some every large squab raisers have an attachment arranged to their windows, so that by simply turning a crank all are opened or closed at the same 16 time, saving considerable trouble in going through the building and closing each one separately. This method is excellent to shut windows quickly when a shower arrives suddenly in sum- mer. On the inside of the building before any nest boxes, etc., are built, tack tar paper one-ply on all sides. This makes the building considerably warmer in winter and prevents vermin in the summer. Some tack the paper on the outside, but this must be replaced with new every year, where if it were placed upon the inside it will last for years. The roof must have the thickest of felt (three-ply). To preserve this well so it will last for many years, coat with tar or slag cement at least once each year. While applying the tar or cement, before it has become dry upon the roof, throw pewter sand or small pebbles upon it. This renders it tough and hard, and even hail cannot do much damage to it. Without the sand or pebbles the cement should be applied every spring and fall. This must be done when the sun is shining warm, for it will then run easier and be far easier to apply. Interior Construction of a Building. The interior should be divided into compartments 8 or 10 feet wide, and the partitions can be made of laths or wire net- ting. At the floor a 12-inch board should be used for two rea- sons: it keeps the dirt in its own pen and prevents the birds from fighting. A slide-door should be made in each partition, By doing this it will not be necessary to have an alleyway through the building. However, an alleyway is very convenient when it comes to cleaning the coops and attending the birds. The first pen should be boarded up tight and kept for a store room, and can also be fitted up for killing and shipping room. Each compartment shotild have a window, and at the side of each window two holes 4 by 5 should be made to be used by the birds in winter when the windows are closed. The perches should be along the side of a building, and as many perches as there are cocks in the pen should be used. By having their perches the cock birds will not be compelled to roost on the nests. The nests should be made along the side and two nests provided for every working pair. The nests can b any cheap material, and should be not less ea 18 inches a length, 12 inches wide and 12 inches high. Nail a 3-inch strip 17 along the front of the nest to keep the eggs and youngsters from falling out. Nest pans are not necessary, and this is all that is required in the way of nests, excepting a 6-inch strip nailed upright between each section to prevent fighting from one nest to another. Evil results come from over-crowding, and twenty-five pairs is about right for the sized compartment de- scribed here. Nests should be cleaned after each pair is taken out and air-slacked lime sprinkled into them. This will keep it sweet and clean and prevent lice and mites as well as worms. The most important part of a pigeon loft is the floor, and here the best of tongued and grooved boards should be used to prevent dampness, and many claim it is profit- Fancy Pigeon House and Aviary able to make the floor rat-proof. An outside fly is necessary, and the birds must be on the ground. Failure to furnish the necessary fly means failure in the pigeon business. Any old “barn or wagon shed can be used to good advantage in raising squabs or fancy stock if the outside fly is provided. How to Mate. Where the object in mating is for squabs for market alone it is not necessary to mate each pair separately, as fanciers do when they wish to keep a strain pure. When fancy birds are mated it would be folly for any one to mate ones of different 2 18 | e color, different varieties, etc., but for squab raising it makes no difference whether a Duchess is mated to an Antwerp, or a Homer to a common bird, the main object being a good sized squab and white color when dressed. It would be best policy, however, to mate Homers to Homers, etc. Pigeons, as a rule, will pick their own mates, so if thirty cocks and thirty hens be left together in a pen, if all are healthy and vigorous, each will have its mate before a week passes. MEE, Wa, GG The Nest Pan or Nappie. Birds mated this way are usually mated for life, or until one or the other dies. The main point in mating is to be sure the birds are well and hearty, of same age (one or two years) and equally divided, 1. e., equal number cocks and hens. Some pigeon men take the trouble to mate each pair separately. This is labor unnecessary. They use a box about 4 feet in length with a tight partition in the center, and place a cock in one side, a hen in the other. They leave them in the box to tall it all aver for a week 19 or so, after which they remove the partition, and they usually mate up. It will be seen where many pairs are to be mated it would take considerable time to mate them in this way. How- ever, for fancy birds and where only a few are kept this is the best and only way of mating. If birds are purchased of good reliable parties, they are usually mated when shipped to the pur- chaser. This is one of the greatest objects in purchasing, for many lofts are full of birds, one-half of which are unmated. Unmated birds, of course, are unprofitable. One odd cock in a loft will do\more damage by picking and killing squabs than diseases will. He is continually fighting the other cocks and destroying eggs and annoying hens while setting. If one is found without a mate remove him from the breeding pens, and do not return him until he has a mate. This will usually end all trouble. How to Tell Males From Females. This is one of the most difficult tasks, and even the old experienced breeders miss it sometimes. As a rule the cock bird is the largest and has a different shaped head. A cock bird when jit cooes’ will turn completely around, but a hen bird sel- dom does. Ofttimes we see a bird chasing or driving a bird inside and out of the coop. The bird doing the chasing is the male and the bird pursued is a female, The best and safest method of telling a male from a female is by the size and shape of the vent bones. In a cock bird the bones are crooked and almost touch, in many cases do touch, wherein a hen bird the bones are straight and from a quarter to a half inch apart, This is due to their nature of laying eggs. Of course, the hen bird 20 thai never laid will not have her bones as far apart as the old breeder, hence care and caution must be used in mating young birds. How and When to Feed. Some prefer feeding their birds by throwing it upon the ground. This would do all right if the weather be dry and warm, but if it be damp or wet, and the birds did not eat up all at one meal, they will pick up the damp grains (probably mouldy by that time) and eat them, which is sure to produce ill health. I prefer feeding in troughs, inside the buildings. Have troughs made 7 feet long, 6 inches wide with a strip 2 inches wide on the sides. Birds fed this way, if they do not eat all at once, still have sound, dry grain to pick at between meals. Pigeons raising squabs need to be fed but twice each day, early morning and about 4 o’clock in the afternoon. Feed, if possible, as much as will be eaten up clean at each meal. If some of the morning meal still remains at the evening meal, give a little less. Ina short time one can find out exactly how much each pen requires, but when there are a large number of squabs in a pen, of course it will require more feed. This is to be left to the judgment of the fancier. On an average the amount of feed for thirty pair of birds with their young is about two quarts at a meal; without young, one to one and one-half quarts. They will eat less corn than wheat or peas, so in feeding corn give somewhat less than of the other grains. After once adapting a system of feeding it becomes easy and natural, but no definite amount for a number of pairs could be given. Each must use his own judgment in feeding. The age of birds must also be considered. A lot of young squabs, just flying out of the nest require more food in proportion than ones fully matured. The amount of food also depends largely upon the climate, for in colder climates a larger amount will be con- sumed, and this should contain a great amount of heat. In warmer climates the foods containing the largest percentage of fats and carbohydrates should be fed sparingly. The following table will give the reader an idea of the prop- erties of the various grains usually fed to pigeons, and can judge how and when to feed: 21 Value of the Different Grains. In each pound Protein Fat Starch Mineral matter of oz.drs. oz.drs. oz. drs. oz. drs. Wheat ............. 1 15° 8 9 4 0 5 Buckwheat .... 1 15 1 0 9 4 0 4 Oats can isiiaewak: 25 15 7 8 4 5 Indian Corn ........ 1 12 1 4 10 7 0 2 Canada Peas ....... 4 5 7 il 0 5 Lupins ............. 3 6 8 0 07 Vetches ............ 2 1 2 6 4 0 4 Heéinp: ces ccd ones 2 6 4 0 6 Sunflower Seed ..... 2 2 6 4 0 6 The two latter are exceedingly fattening and heatening and must be fed sparingly, especially in summer. Safe to feed oftener in winter. It is far better to feed a variety of grains than one particular grain any length of timie. Some are loosening to the bowels, others again constipating. Coin is somewhat constipating, while wheat (especially new wheat, which must never be fed) is loosening, especially to the squab; it digests too easily or, in other words, becomes softened too quickly and the squabs, many of which die of “scours,” a term used by pigeon men, identical with diarrhea. Buckwheat is also heatening and binding, and is safe to use in winter only. To keep a bird’s appetite good it is best to feed a variety of grains than one particular grain; in fact, to keep them guessing what will comprise their next meal. In feeding always give those grains containing the most heat at the evening meal, for then they have no exercise and they will require more heat, especially during winter nights. What to Feed. Wheat. Wheat is (taking it the whole year round) the main article of food for pigeons. It contains very nourishing qualities, rich in starch, fats and proteins, but should be fed in connection with some of the other grains occasionally, for if fed too long it will scour the birds, as it has slightly laxative qualities, prob- ably in the oyter shell or bran. Red wheat should always be 22 fed in preference to the white variety, the latter has more tend- ency to scour than the former. A good point to remember is don’t feed new wheat, or new grains of any kind. It seems strange that when birds have their liberty about a farm they will enter a grain field and eat new grain with relish and never experience any harm from it, but if it be fed to them when housed up they become very sickly and numbers of them will die. The One Type of the Ideal Squabbers. reason of this may be that they obtain more exercise than when hotised up. Nevertheless this is the case, and wheat should be at least six months to a year old before it is fit for pigeons. When new wheat is first fed it seems to have little effect upon thé old birds, but the squabs become subject to “scours” and dié. If it is fed any length of time it begins to show on the 23 old birds, and they are affected with diarrhoea of a severe form. Good wheat, if well seasoned, contains all the properties neces- sary for the health of the birds and is the main staff of life. Don’t think of buying. cheap wheat. The best you can buy is by far the cheapest. The crop of a bird is a very delicate organ, and it does not require much to start up an inflamma- tion with serious results. Through neglect and ignorance hosts of birds die off, especially in summer, where if more precaution and better judgment had been used by the owner the rate of mortality in his birds would have been- greatly lessened. It must not be understood that all fanciers do not lose birds by death at times; in fact;all do. People die and always will, even with the best of care, but I have reference to unusual numbers dying. The food given the parent birds invariably shows itself in the size and health of the squabs. Can a squab, a very delicate piece of organism all through, be raised in its full state of health upon poor, innutritious or mouldy food? Certainly not. This must be taken into consideration, and if any one has been feed- ing his birds poor quality, change it at once to good food, and notice how much difference there will be in the results. Scorched Wheat. Scorched wheat is largely used as a pigeon food by pigeon raisers, for it is cheap and does just as well as good wheat in their estimation; after it is fed a while they notice their mistake. This quality of wheat is too hard and indigestible for pigeons to eat. Good wheat will soften in their crops in a few hours, but scorched wheat will not soften for a day or so. I have seen many bad cases of crop bound (indigestion) from the use of this wheat. What is scorched whéat? I will explain. I received this advice from a friend, an experienced miller, and he should know. Scorched wheat is supposed, and said, to come from elevator fires, fires that occur in the large Western elevators. If this were true all the elevators would have been.destroyed years ago, for “there is an immense lot of this stuff on the markets at all times, and at times when no fires occur. This wheat is that which has become mouldy while at the elevators. It is damaged of course and could not be used for making flour, so it is doctored up for 24 poultry food. It is run through a fire process on asi enough so as to burn off the sprouts, if any are on, an a re ; the mouldy smell. It is then dried in the sun, put in bags = finds its way to the poultry yards as feed. If one takes a ew grains of this and eats it, he can readily detect the mouldy cage even though it may have a smoky smell. I would org poultrymen to discontinue using it if they are doing so. : dealers purchase this wheat at $5 to $6 per ton less than goo At Home. wheat could be bought. There are great quantities used every’ year, but the sooner itis discontinued the better for the squabj raiser. It may do for chickens; I do not know, but for squabs, nothing but second or third class can be raised from it. The main object in this business is to raise first-class squabs, the; ones which demand the highest market prices. Mouldy feed or 25 grains which have started germination, or damaged in any other way, should be cast aside and never used as food. Diseases such as crop bound, foul crop, etc., will surely follow any negligence on the part of the fancier, especially in the way of improper food and feeding. Wheat Screenings. The author as well as many other squab raisers uses screen- ings to as good an advantage as wheat; in fact, I believe if the screenings be good it does better and fattens the squabs nicer and easier than pure wheat. I have reference to what is called good screenings. The majority on the market contains very little wheat, mostly dirt; of course this is useless. I procure screenings from the mills direct and get it very good, at times the grains of wheat are almost perfect. There is an advantage in feeding screenings for more than one reason. First, the grains are all very dry and harder than the good wheat, are not digested so easily, but at the same timé contain all the nourishing prop- erties. The wheat in screenings as a rule is better seasoned than pure wheat; birds both young and old thrive well upon it, and does not scour them like pure wheat. Another advantage is the other seeds which they can get from the screenings, as grass seed, tares and various other seeds. which help to sharpen up their appetites. One purchasing screenings, however, must keep his eyes wide open, for screenings have one disadvantage, and a very bad one. This is rye, which it sometimes contains. One must exam- ine it well before feeding, for if there be a certain percentage of rye in it, it will cause detrimental results. Rye should never be fed, even in small quantities, for it produces a violent intestinal inflammation or irritation and causes death. Pigs, chickens, or any other animal will not live if fed rye. So be careful in buying screenings to look out closely for rye. Wheat is as a rule $1.00 to $1.25 per bushel. In pigeon wheat there is always some waste matter. In screenings there is the same, and a little more, but when good screenings can be bought for $1 per 100 pounds, it will be a great saving, and in this business expenses must be kept down to the lowest notch. In 100 pounds of screenings there will be two bushels or more. Wheat in this way costs 50 cents or less a bushel. 26 Oats. Oats is one of the most nourishing and valuable cereals we have. They are rich in phosphates and nerve-building: food, make material for muscle, and are well proportioned in the other elements, but they are harsh and indigestible, due to their hulls. The larger and barer the oats the less hull. The crop of a pigeon is injured if the pointy oats is fed, and when given them in this way, they will not eat it, if anything else is before them. The oats uséd for pigeons is hulled oats. In this the rough pointy shell is removed, leaving nothing but the oat Ready for Market. itself. It resembles rolled oats. It is the most excellent food obtainable, but it costs considerably more than plain oats. Millet. One of the most valuable articles of food as a relish or change for the birds is millet, The Germaa or Hungarian variety is considered best. I have.found from experience that this grain is exceedingly stimulating and makes birds breed up 27 to the highest notch, but it should be fed sparingly, as it is very strong. A pint or quart to a bucketful of wheat or screenings is amply sufficietit. Never feed it alone, but always mixed with arly of the other grains excepting cotn, which should always be fed senarately. I do hot fancy feeding a mixture of corn, wheat, etc., for it changes the chemical action of the other grains, aind tone ate of the nourishing value as though fed separately. Millet if given in proper proportioris, I find, has a great influence upon the skin of the squabs. They seldom turn dark when dressed for niatket if fed a little millet. The Scanderoon. Canada Peas. All who own truck know how crazy pigeons ate for peas. They will ruin a bed of peas in less than no time. They are exceedingly fond of them, and ate healthy and strengthening for them. Canada peas are the smallest of all the other varieties, but if they canriot be procured, the split peas or common field peas do for the same purpose. If you never fed them before, it will take them a day or so finding out that they are edible, but when they once eat them they watch and wait for them eagerly. I always feed them with screenings, but they pick out peas first, before eating up the screenings. They are somewhat steep in price, but when one considers their nourishing qualities they are worth the price. A quart toa bucketful is sufficient. 28 Buckwheat. Buckwheat is an excellent article for pigeon food, but it is to be used only in Winter months. It is a rich, heatening grain and not adapted for hot weather. It has a tendency to produce white meat in squabs when dressed. An occasional handful in Summer will do no harm, but to feed it regular, as some do, it will do great harm. Never mix it with corn; always with wheat. I had a friend who fed wheat, corn and buckwheat, mixed for Summer food; and in a few weeks after feeding this mixture he was out of the business. His birds died like flies. I attributed the cause to the mixture. To prove it to him I fed one pen of my own the same mixture and lost several fine birds after the first feed only. I did not feed any more of it; I was convinced. It would be unsafe to feed it in connection with corn, even in Winter. Corn and buckwheat do not agree with birds, if it be mixed. Corn. Corn is used more extensively in the pigeon business than any other grain, simply because it is cheap. In fact, I know of some birds that get nothing but corn from one year to another, but this is very foolish. Corn is exceedingly rich in starch and contains a considerable amount of fats. Hence it is very heating. It should never be fed mixed, but always alone. I prefer cracked corn to whole corn; for in the feeding process, which the parents go through, the young can swallow it with comfort. If whole corn, of the large grain variety be fed, there will always be some squabs unable to swallow it and choke to death. Owing to corn’s heating qualities, it should be fed sparingly during warm weather. I feed it (one meal) every other night during summer. This is amply sufficient, as they do not care so much for it in Summer. In Winter they require more corn; then I feed it every night. Never feed it during the morning, for at night they require more heat, and this supplies them with it, Kaffir Corn. This is a new variety of corn, has a small kernel, equally as small as pop-corn, and has the same properties as Indian corn. It is relished by the pigeons and is a wholesome food. However, its high price prevents its use extensively for squab raising, 29 Stale Bread. At almost all bakeries stale bréad can be purchased for a mere trifle. This can be given the birds as an extra, at almost any time during the day. Soak it in water for an hour or so, or until it is soft, then give it to the birds in their cages. This they will enjoy beyond measure. Waste Pop Corn. This is purchased from candy firms and is the waste corn which did not pop. It is useful as pigeon food, is small and easily swallowed, and is healthy. It contains a certain portion of car- bon and charcoal, and is excellent for poultry as a side dish. Blondinettes. Hemp and Sunflower Seeds. These two seeds are very rich in fats, and are highly con- centrated, and consequently are to be used but little. They are generally used as an appetizer or tonic to run-down birds, They are excellent to keep up the bird during the moulting season. An occasional cupful.of these seeds are good, but I would not advise their free use. As to the pigeons they are exceedingly fond of hemp seed, and if given enough will eat till it kills them. In cold weather more can be fed than in warm weather, 30 Lupins and Vetches. These two seeds have about the same properties as peas and can be used as such. They are a high priced article of food, and are used mainly as a luxury in squab raising. In raising fancy stock, where large prices are obtained, the steep priced grains are overlooked. However, in squab raising these grains cannot be fed much, as expense must be kept as low as possible. Green Food. Pigeons do not require green food and meat like chickens, but when salad can be procured they will eat it with relish and will do them no harm. Chickweed is also good for them in sea- A Handsome Group. son. An excellent green food for the birds is peas. Have a number of boxes inte which sow peas, and when they are grown to an inch or two in height place the box and all in their cages and let them eat of the stalks. They can then be taken out spain until they grow several inches and placed before the birds seain SYSTEM OF FEEDING FOR SUMMER. Sunday. Morning, wheat screenings mixed with peas and millet Afternoon, screenings alone. . gt “STM. Ou Bor py pue yst su a 32 33 Monday. Morning, screenings with few vetches or lupins. Afternoon, cracked corn alone -(full meal). Tuesday. Morning, screenings or wheat with peas. Afternoon, screenings with a little millet. Wednesday. Morning, screenings alone. Soaked bread at noon. Afternoon, cracked corn (full meal). Thursday. Morning, screenings or wheat with hulled oats. Afternoon, screenings with peas. Friday. Morning, screenings with millet or peas. Afternoon, cracked corn, or kaffir corn. Saturday. Morning, wheat or screenings alone. Afternoon, screenings with little hemp seed and millet. The above is my system of feeding pigeons, one which | adopted a few years ago with excellent results. The cost of the dearer grains, such as hemp, millet, peas, etc., will not be noticed if given in small quantities. What pigeons need and want in order to keep them in health is a change, also a variety. The Flying or Racing Homer. This variety has made rapid strides toward perfection, and when we see a well bred, well trained flying homer it reminds us of a well trained athlete ready and willing to go into the con- test. The requirements are a bird with a nice, even-shaped head of medium length set on a neck of medium thickness without any appearance of gullet, widening at the shoulders. The chest should be large and full, back short and flat and broad across the shoulders, tapering off to the rump and tail; short and 3 34 Straight breast bone; wings to have powerful butts, flight to be broad, strong and closely overlapped; good secondary feather and covering; tail close fitting, having the appearance of one feather ; carriage bold and alert size, tnediurti and evety point in proportion. Training the Flying or Racing Horner. No variety of pigeons is so much attached to their home as the homer, and such a thing as a homer leaving his home loft and taking up his abode in another, as sometimes others do, never occtirs. The home instinct is bred in them; indeed, so much of this instinct is impressed in their nature that well-bred The Flying Homer. ones rarely alight on any place but their own loft. Surrounding roofs of buildings are seldom used by them as a loafing place. The instinct for home in them makes them easily trained for long distance flights. If pains are taken in training and condi- tioning them, long and rapid flights are made easy by them, and the number of birds lost in long distance flights is very small if they have been carefully prepared. In training old or young birds for homing races, the birds should be allowed to take daily exercise around the home loft. They should not be allowed unlimited liberty at all times, but 35 the bob wires with which each loft should be equipped should be opened about three times a day and the birds allowed to exercise. In a short time they will become accustomed to being on the wing and make quite long flights from the loft and become thoroughly acquainted with the surrounding country. Then they should be taken a few miles from the loft in a roomy basket or crate and liberated. They will at once circle and start for home. The next day they should be taken about five miles from home in the same direction as the previous day and liberated. The day following they should be taken ten miles from home in the same direction and allowed to fly home. Usually these prepar- atory flights are made from the east. First of all the birds are to be trained in a southern direction. After flying ten miles from wer ve PL Well Trained and Ready for Market. the East, the birds are then taken over the same course from the West, and after they are thoroughly acquainted with the surrounding country from ten to twenty miles from the loft in an easterly and westerly direction, they can then be started for their southern route, five miles from home for the first flight. The day following they are taken ten miles from home; the following day twenty, after which they are given a rest for a day or two, with exercise around the home loft about a half hour each day. They then can be taken to the 50-mile station and liberated After this they can be sent to the hundred-mile station and then allowed one week’s rest at home, with daily exercise of at least one hour. At the end of the week they can be shipped to the two hundred-mile station and then allowed another week’s rest at 36 home with daily exercise of two hours. This system is continued by jumps of one hundred miles each week until the birds reach the five or six hundred-mile station. After that, if extremely long distance flights are desired, they can be jumped to the station the long flight is desired from. By carefully following this system of training, Homers frequently fly five hundred and even six hundred miles in one day, and cases are on record where birds have gone over eleven hundred miles. About the longest distance young birds should be trained is two hundred miles, although they have been known to fly five hundred miles as youngsters, but we do not advise these long flights for them as they are rarely of any account as old birds. After they are thoroughly matured old birds, one year old they are ready for extreme distances. Show Homer. The Show Homer. The interest taken in the Show Homer seems to increase as the years pass, thus giving its supporters abundant reason for claiming if the most popular of all the different breeds of pigeons. Type is the strong point in the Show Homer. It matters not how perfect the head, eye, or color, the value is very much impatred if the specimen lacks type. Show Homers are bred in many different colors—Chequers, Blue, Black, Red, Dun, Silver and Yellow and in whole colors we have Blue, Silver, Mealy, Yellow, Grizzle and White 37 The Jacobins, The Jacobin, like the Fantail, depends on its attractiveness and wonderful formation of feather for its popularity ahd de- mand. The Fantail is possibly better known to the fidvice than the Jacobin on account of fits wonderful formation of tail, which éven the novice can distinguish and place the naime to the bird. However, the Fantail can claim rio greater army of entlusiasts than the Jacobin and the rivalry among the Jacobin bréedé¥s of the present is alrnost equal to that of any other variety, and right- ly.so, for there are many reasons why it should be. Thé Jacobin is a hearty and prolific pigeon and requires but little assistance to rear its own young. In other words, they are considered to be fairly good workers. This latter point should be empha- sized, for it is far too commonly assumed that a pair of feeders are necessary for each pair of Jacobins. Many of the Jacobin fanciers claim that they will rear successfully every bird they have but that a few pairs of feeders will rear many a bird which gets a bad start from its parents or where the parents go to nest too soon. eres Re The Jacobin i is a | peculiar variety and can never be. {ihproved, nor its characteristics increased by crossing with any othet vari- ety of pigeon. No small advantage is this when one looks around and sees evil results of such breaks in some “of the favorite varieties of the day. The day has long passed. when selection and perseverance on the part of the breeder will overcome every difficulty, however obstinate it may be and the present. diy _Jaco- bin is really a work of art, made so by yeats.of careful mating and breeding to bring about the desired result and the truly won- der feather formation that we see on nearly every specimen that adorns our exhibitions. No variety has a more high-bred ap- pearance than the Jacobin when he is in full dress array. For the information of the novice, let us briefly describe the chief ‘point of this beautiful variety. By common consent the most important point in a good Jacobin is the hood. This should be smooth and thick in substance of feather, fitting almost closely to the head, reaching forward as far as possible to the front of the head and tiefging without a break itito the rane beliind and the chaifi at either cheek. The chain shotild spring in a sweepitig cutve on either side from its junction with the hood, completely 38 covering the big eyes and evenly meeting on both sides, reaching as far down the breast as possible. The mane should be well sprung into an arch shape from its junction with the back of the hood. The feathers should be thick and smooth and meeting from either side in a graceful curved line without a break. The cenfer from which the feathers radiate at the side of the neck to form the main chain is known as the rose. The head above the under mandible, the rump. The tail and ten flight feathers on either side should be white; the remainder of the body in colored varieties should be lustrous in color whether red, yellow or black. ~~ fee -. 7 The Fantail, White or pearly eyes, long flights and tail, slim and tapering body and erect carriage make up the remaining properties of the fascinating Jacobins, one of the most beautiful varieties that is in existence. The Fantails. Of all the different varieties of pigeons possibly none attract the attention of the visitors at our leading shows more than the Fantails. It is conceded by all that this is one of the most inter- esting and fascinating of all fancy varieties of pigeons. Ag w¢ 39 walk down the aisles of our different shows, it is noticed that there are usually more people stop and admire the Fans than any other variety. Their aristocratic carriage, their graceful steps and that peculiar and striking motion of head and neck are their source of attraction and admiration and they constantly draw forth from the uninitiated the most amusing comments and re- marks. The Fantail by nature is not wild and this with their peculiar characteristics makes them a general favorite. They are very easily tamed .and quickly become attached to their owners. Another thing which helps to increase the popularity from an exhibitor’s point of view is that one need not be a pro- fessional before being able to tell the good ones from the inferior birds and to pick out his show specimens. They not only please those who keep them solely for the pleasure of seeing them flying about their loft but they appeal strongly to all who take a delight in exhibiting and here the question may be asked, why? Be- cause it is a variety that is not difficult to breed; that is to say, one need not serve an apprenticeship of several years by keeping the birds constantly before him in order to distinguish the ex- hibition birds. The Fans are as a rule good mothers and fathers and so require no foster parents to rear their young, as is the case of some of the short billed varieties, thus the great expense of having extra lofts and retaining other birds to rear the young is abolished. Contrary to much that has been said the Fantail requires no faking for exhibition purposes. There are possibly many who will question this statement and ask, “what about their tails?” True enough, the tail of a Fan is often faked, but you need not resort to this source to get the good exhibition tails. The birds can and are bred with tails that require no manipulation to en- able them to win in fast company, and it is said that the birds whose tails are not faked usually win over those that have been tampered with. The novice may, therefore, venture to take up this delightful breed with hopeful expectation of success, provided he uses judgment in securing the parent stock and is careful with his matings. The training to get the required carriage of the Fantail is an art that you will very soon become accustomed to and delighted with as well. 40 Fans are bred in many different colors, the most popular, however, being the Whites, Blacks, Blues, Reds, Yellow, as well as the Saddle Backs. The Whites, as usual, have maintained the lead and are possibly the largest class of any of the Fans at the larger shows, and they have been bred to such a high state that it is really difficult to find fault with many of the winning specimens. The Blacks are not as popular as the Whites, but nevertheless the quality is not far behind. Blues, like the Blacks, are not bred very extensively, and the quality, as usual, {s not that of the Blacks or Whites. Saddles are quite plentiful with usually fair classes at the shows, with uniform quality but. noth- ing in comparison with the White variety. The Reds.and the Yellows have made no advancement in popularity for the past several years, and about the same size classes are seen at the shows and about the same interest taken as a number of years ago, and it is claimed by some of the leading breeders that the Reds and Yellows are very difficult to breed. The wide-spread popularity of the Fantails makes them in demand, and the fan- ciers of any of the different varieties have little trouble in dis- posing of their surplus stock. The Pouter. The Pouter is one of the oldest varieties of fancy pigeons and has been a great favorite as far back as 1735. In that year J. Moore published his treatise on tame pigeons, which_I think was the first book on the subject. He there states that the Pouter was first bred in England and is, therefore, called the English Pouter. It was originally a mixed breed between a horseman and a cropper, and it appears that this cross had been made very many years prior to Mr. Moore's remarks, judging from the description he gives. Of course, like all others of the older varieties, the Pouter has undergone many changes in fashion. Thirty years ago the great rage was size and length, somewhat irrespective of thickness of body, style and carriage. The shape of the limbs was not often what one would describe as elegant. I believe on some few occasions there are records where they measured seven and one-half inches and over, but seldom if ever looked as long and more rarely were of the cor- rect shape, position and closeness. Since that time the Pouter has gradually been improved in general structure. The body 41 has been greatly reduced in stoutness and the limbs no jonget give the appearance of greater length on account of the careful breeding to get them placed further back in the body, closer inserted and finer in bone. The feather has also not been so much wanted in length, especially in tail. The shoulder has been. considerably teduced, which all helps to give the bird a more slehder appearance and, considering the foregoing points, the size of the crop of the present-day Pouter is as large and as shapely as that of the old-time clumsy birds. The Down-to-Date Pouter. There are many different varieties of Pouters. The Blue- Reds shave always been the strongest, both in number and quality. The Blacks, although they have improved in numbers, have made no material improvement, especially in color, ex- cepting in a few cases, and these instances may be counted on the fingers. In Reds it has been quite the reverse, a great im- provement having been made on them during the last several years, and there are plenty of good, first-class specimens to be 42 seen to-day. Yellows are quite popular and have improved much. These were the last to gain slenderness of growth, so much admired. The Whites, unfortunately, have gone back very much dur- ing the past two or three years. I do not mean by this that there are no good ones, but they are few, indeed, in comparison with the others. In many sections of our Eastern States the Pouter is the most popular of the different varieties of fancy pigeons, and much enthusiasm is displayed by the fanciers, and in one instance the writer can relate having seen several hun- dred specimens in one show, nearly all of which were of excp- tional quality. Magpie. To keep Magpies is to love them. Their charming colors, alertness, delicate and symmetrical form and the manner in which they care for themselves and their young endear them to their 43 owners. The ideal sketch which appears with this article will convey to the reader who knows little or nothing about pigeons, the handsome outlines and lady-like form of the Magpie, which is oft times referred to as the “Queen of Pigeons.” They are bred in Black, Red, Yellow, Blue, Silver and Dun. The main points of the Magpie are so clearly defined in the sketch accompanying the article that it seems unnecessary to call any particular attention to them. The beautiful shape of skull, the fine texture of beak and wattle, the small bold eye, with fine choral cere, the long fine neck, the elegant outline of body, fine folded tails and game-like legs and feet are placed in front of the fancier in such a masterful way that-to see them is to admire them. The English Owl. The English Owls are not without a host of supporters, who claim them to be just as good, just as pretty as any variety. We find them most plentiful in blue, silver and dun, while occa- sionally we see a few blacks, chequers and creams. The good English Owl must have a fine dark eye cere, neat and shapely wattle, rich red eye, full gullet and abundance of frill. The head must be round, full and wide, have plenty of top skull and full frontal. The beak should be stout and well set and have a down- ward appearance, upper and lower mandables close fitting with dividing line pointing to the center of the eye. The carriage igs one of the majn features, as is also shortness of feather, 44 The Runt. Runts have been very prominently before the public for the: past ten or twelve years, and have been used extensively in crossing with the Homer to produce a large squab-breeding bird. They are the largest variety of pigeons in existence, and a loft of full-bred runts is now a very hard thing to find. As a rule the thoroughbred Runt is not a very prolific breeder and is a little negligent in caring for her young, although their value to the pigeon industry must not be underestimated, for by cross- ing them with the Homer the present-day squab-producing bird was tnade. They are bred in blue, silver, dun and white. The Archangel. Of all the different varieties of pigeons with their great diversity of colors, none compares with the Archangel in rich- ness. Just how they were named is a mystery, but there’ is a town in Russia by this name, and it is claimed they were origi- nated there, In the Far Fast, where most of the varisties of 45 fancy pigeons originated the people are very devout, and we have many birds named after their teachers, such as Nuns, Jacobins, Priests, and hence it is presumed that they also named the Archangel on account of its richness in color. It is one of the most attractive vafieties that we have, and they are bred to a high state of perfection. It has an upright carriage, lang head, straight, slender beak. The wings are a dark brown, while the neck, head, breast and bust are a rich bronze, giving them a burnished appearance. Barbs. The Barb is by no means one of the prettiest of fancy pigeons. However, it is a hardy variety and a, fairly good breeder and not at all difficult to manage with reasonable care. One of the main features to watch in breeding Barbs is to pre- vent ulceration of the wattles, a disease that all wattled varie- ties are subject to. This can be prevented by sponging the wattles to remove the gummy exudation which all the wattled varieties are subject to. The main point in breeding the Barb. is the head; to get the eye wattles large enough that it cannot 46 see ahead or behind, thus making it an easy prey to its enemies. They are bred in different colors, reds, blacks and yellows being the most popular. The English Carriers. The English Carrier is oft times called the “King of Pigeons” and is largely bred not only in the United States but throughout civilization. They are bred in nearly all colors to a high state of perfection. It is a highly intelligent bird with bright eyes, alert and upright carriage, large eye ceres and prom- inent wattles. In the past the different breeders seemed to give all their attention in perfecting the head points, thus sacrificing color and other qualities, but this folly seems to be past and now color and carriage are receiving attention with the result of a more uniform type as well as a more beautiful bird. The Antwerp. The Antwerp is largely used as a squab raiser and is identi- cal with the Homer except in beak and eye, and the writer is safe in saying that the Antwerps and Homers outnumber all other varieties of pigeons combined. On our large pigeon farms 47 AeA \\ Sy \\ \ A < \ eiet ee 48 Antwerps, Homers and their crosses are bred by the thousands, and many thousands of pairs of squahs find their way to city markets and command the highest ' prices. It is a very hearty bird, prolific breeder, and stands confinement well. Dragoons. Dragoons always command admiration whenever they are seen, whether it be in the show room or in the loft. As a cross in making squab raisers they have no superior, but have not been as extensively used as some of the other varieties on ac- count of their price, as good quality in Dragoons comes high, and it is claimed the. demand is greater than the supply. They are hardy and prolific breeders, ‘stand confinement well. In many respects, as will be noticed by the illustration, they resemble the Antwerp. They are bred in Blues, Grizzles, Blacks, Whites, Dunns, Silvers, Yellows and Chequers. ‘s[requey $ ? 2 ¥ POO a ae 59° . = Trumpetors. The Trumpetors are a most peculiar and interesting variety. They were first imported into the United States about 1875. They are natives of Asia, where they are bred in the Mosques by the priests. They are bred in Blacks, Whites, Chequers and Mottles. They should stand low in the legs, very heavily feath- ered, well spread clear to the toenails. The main features are the rose and shell. The rose should be large, round, smooth and even, with a nice droop covering the beak and eyes, shell stand- ing well up at back and curved forward, extending from eye to eye. One of the peculiarities of the Trumpetors is the coo, and if once heard it is seldom forgotten, and it is possibly from this that.they derived their name. He Tumblers, Pigeops have been kept both for- fancy and utility for ages. The Romans were ardent fanciers of this beautiful bird, and the talk at the Forum as frequently dwelt upon the pigeon as it did upon the Senator. Pigeon fanciers are like poets, “born not made.” This trait 51 in an individual manifests itself early and persists late. It is a magic touch that places the urchin and the sage in the same class. Certainly no fancy holds out the temptation that this one does. The possibilities are so great. The whims of the most fastidious can find satisfaction in the pigeon. This bird is pro- duced in most every conceivable shape and color. The delicate tints and penciling of their feathers seem hardly to be a part of a living bird. When one considers that these beautiful speci- mens of avian perfection evoluted from the aborigines, the Rock Doves, very evident is it then the class of men that labored to bring about this change. No other fancy can boast of so many artistic and intelligent sympathizers as this one, for the simple reason that intelligence is necessary to produce and maintain, anc an artistic temperament is required to appreciate the ele- gance thereof. Not only does the pigeon supply interesting combinations of color and shape, but action as well, viz., the lordly Pouter with his globe or the nervous Fantail with her toe-dance. But to me that sturdy little acrobat, the Tumbler, appeals most strongly. While this bird is produced in more colors and varied other morphological characteristics than we find in any other breed, his aerial gymnastics completely eclipse the tame demon- stration of the Pouter, the Fan, or any other performing pigeon, 52 The Tumbler is bred in all the usual colors of pigeons, i. e., white, black, red, yellow, dun, silver, blue bar, saddle, also bald head, rose-wing, white-sidé, badge, beard, etc. He may be either long-faced or of the short-beaked variety; clean-legged, stocking-legged, or muffed, and many pleasing combinations of the foregoing colors and other characteristics. As a matter of fact, you are aware that this bird turns backward somersaults, hence the name Tumbler. The mode and surroundings in which he chooses to perform this feat divides his family into still fur- ther sub-divisions, i. e., outside and inside Tumblers. By out- side Tumblers we refer to a bird that flies to some height before starting his daring performance. The inside Tumbler is a bird that will turn a somersault near the ground, thus making it pos- sible to do so within the aviary. This bird is popularly known as the parlor Tumbler. Again the class is divided as to the number of somersaults, for instance, singles, as the word implies, a bird that turns a single somersault; doubles, the meaning of which is evident; roller, a performer that flies to a dizzy height and commences the roll, continuing same until he comes near to or as indeed is frequently the case, in actual contact with the ground or build- ings. In some instances making it hazardous to allow such a specimen to perform. This is by no means the limit of the classifications of this most interesting bird, but it will suffice to recall to the mind of the reader the truly wide possibilities in breeding a pigeon of so diverse characteristics. Another very strong point in favor of the Tumbler is his remarkable vitality. The past winter was characterized by much snow. It was necessary to house Ban- tams, and indeed larger poultry, quite frequently for weeks at a time; however, this seemed quite superfluous in the case of the Tumbler. A number of the clean-legged variety which the author allowed to fly at liberty during this tyme would, with im- punity, walk about on the snow, the temperature near zero, flip- ping the dry snow first one way and then the other in search of hemp seed tossed to them for the purpose of observing their actions. I have yet to see the first pair of Tumblers that are not good feeders, and most of them are excellent feeders, rearing their young without any trouble whatsvever, This is @ yery essential 53 qualification which is frequently lacking in other fancy breeds. i know quite a ‘few fanciers who make it a routine practice to shift certain of their fancy pigeon eggs to birds of known feeding ability. This, to say the least, is confusing and expensive, neces- sitating the sustaining of a surplus amount of stock, and perhaps ad) WA: Hi i ad Mh si yy Mi Na The Pouter. The Pride ofthe Show Room. these. foster, parents are not so obliging as to set, about, the task of incubation, at the proper time, another. source of, annoyance, When a fancier. has spent much time and money to produce. . a pair of birds. which he thinks will breed, just, the. progeny, he wants, how, eagerly he. watches the eggs, and when pipped he. knows there is a winner in each shell. A few days later he finds 54 his winners mashed flat as a flitter—dead, starved. Then it is he realizes that the parent birds are no feeders, and if he expects any young from them it must be reared by other birds. With Tumblers this objectionable feature is obviated. To summarize, the hardy characteristics and ample feeding proclivities of the Tumbler recommend him and assure success to the amateur breeder as well as the veteran. His neat, com- pact bill, grand head and eye, dainty coloring and pleasing com- binations of same and other bodily characteristics appeal to the artistic, while his marvelous acrobatic achievements champion him the prince of entertainers. The English Turbit. Too much cannot be said of the English Turbit, the aristo- crat of the pigeon family, which has always kept a strong hold on the fancier who has an eye for the beautiful, for surely no other variety possesses so much real beauty as is combined in a thoroughbred Turbit. Their beautiful wing color, their large, appealing eyes and haughty carriage are a delight to all lovers of birds, and as a foundling the Turbit has no equal among birds, for they are docile by nature, can be picked up anywhere in the loft if gently treated, and like to trass and strut and be played with, and I have had birds so tame that they would light on me and follow me around the loft eating from my hand. You may ask: “What are they good for?” and if you do not like pets I will answer that they are good for nothing. They will get you out of bed a little earlier to give them a little atten- tion, and you will fuss with them noon and evening, which is just what you need to drive dull care away. If you have never kept pigeons, I’d advise you to try it, but do not start with a good pair of Turbits. Get a cheap pair, for it will take you a season to learn even the A B C of Turbit breeding, and I’d hate to see a good pair used for trial and you lose them and your money. The essentials are a dry place to keep them, plenty of fresh air and fresh water, no draughts, good, clean food and grit and care as to lice and rats. Keep them hungry and active. No variety of pigeons command higher prices than a good, thoroughbred Turbit, and winners at large shows have sold for 55 from $200 to $300 each, and a pair of breeders that will not com: mand $25 are likely to be ordinary birds. Learn first to fancy the Turbit, then learn to care for them successfully and raise the young, then buy ong or tw@e good pair in preference to ten ordinary pair, and with intelligent mating you will have good results and be successful. The accompanying cut of some of my birds and a cut of an English hen will give you some idea of their beauty, and you may conclude for yourself whether you like the English or home- grown the best. England has years of advantage over us in breeding this handsome bird, but many a good one has been brought here, and many good birds are raised in this country to-day, but Turbits are not as generally raised here as in Eng- English Turbit. land for some reason or other, and the breeders of strictly high- class blue-blood Turbits in this country to-day can be counted on your fingers. The fancier who will take up the Turbit and hold to his oars until he reaches the headwaters of Turbit possibilities will have a name, for men like Kline, Lenhart, Ullrich, Orr, Parson Feather, Hart, McIntyre and others will pass down in the his- tory of the American advancement of this, my favorite bird. The Carneaux. I have been asked to write an article on pigeons, ae : about Carneaux, which are my favorite birds. I want to speak of Carneaux as a squab breeder. F rom my 56 point of view the Carneaux stands prominently at the head: for producing squabs of large size, and plenty of them. It is not uncommon for a pair of good Carneaux to raise from eight to eleven pairs of squabs i in a year, and in size weigh- ing from 10 to 14 pounds to the dozen dressed. What more can anybody want in squab breeding birds. I have birds which are doing this for. me at present. You can get your crosses, such as Runt Homer or Runt Maltese, etc., but I would like somebody: to show me a bunch of good size coming up to the Carneaux as to number of squabs produced each year. Not all Carneaux. are doing this, but if you get the right kind of stock you will have no trouble to make the average quoted. F know of.a certain breeder who has tried Carneaux and calls them a rank failure. Why? Because he got stung in buying his stock, having paid a very low price for them. Now he is condemning Carneaux. He bought Carneaux for $1 a pair. He has what I call “culls.” Somebody had tried them before he got them and found them wanting, therefore he disposed of them for whatever he could get. know of birds going the rounds from breeder to dealer, from dealers. to, bgeeder indefinitely. It is very unfortunate that we. have $0, much, of this business going on in pigeons. This is done i in al kinds of pigeons, more so in Homers and their crosses than, any other, birds on account of their being more plentiful than Carneaux. I had an experience several years ago in Carneaux which would almost have disgusted anybody just starting in with Car- neaux. I bought several pairs of solid red Carneaux from a breeder in New Jersey, who was advertising extensively and boasted to be a responsible party. I receivetl the birds; they succeeded -in raising one. pair of squabs. a piece for me, then would not do anything for a long time, then started again laying. eggs and. hatching young ones. But these always died. in from one. to two weeks. I wrote to the party stating they. could not accomplish. anything. He. replied that since I did, not. return, birds right away. he. could do nothing. for. me; I would have. to run chances with them as well as he. Now these birds were guaranteed to give satisfaction as I had paid a good stiff price for them, so you can see we have cheats in the pigeon business as well as any other business. I, however, was not to be thrown down so easily. I gave these birds to a man who makes his living as a squab breeder, to see 57 what he could do with them. His experience was identically the same as mine. Now you may ask, what was the trouble that they layed and hatched and raised them to over two weeks old, and then died? Here, my dear reader, is the answer in a nut- shell. Inbreeding! After I turned these birds over to the squab breeder I sent to another breeder for some good tested breeders; ** and right here let me tell you I got them all right, coming up to my ideals in every way. So be careful ‘with whom you place your orders for birds, as all the first part of your success depends on getting the right kind of stock to begin with; that is why so many have failed in the squab business, and more are doing so constantly. The man who has been successful enough to get together one or two thousand pairs of good Carneaux does not need to care much which way the wind blows, as he is fixed in getting a good living and money besides. There are many men to-day who can show a good bank account made from squab raising, for one man can attend to at least 1,000 pairs of pigeons, doing all work except plucking and killing or dressing them for market. Ycu may say that is right, but how about disease. Well, let me tell you; you will have very little disease among pigeons properly housed and cared for, being very careful as to feeding only good sound grain and a variety of it. White wheat or musty wheat has carried off more pigeons than almost anything else. This causes sour crop, vomiting, diarrhoea and dedth in very short order. Moreover, if stock is raised from birds that have canker they will throw weaklings which are almost sure to die sooner of later from some disease; therefore, the best remedy for birds cankering their young is the hatchet. Never raise a young pigeon from stock which is diseayed in any way. Then you can make a success out of the pigeon business. I had something to happen to me just lately with a hen pigeon. She raised three pair of young squabs, then went into moult and never laid another egg after that. The cock bird was driving her all the time until she got on the nest and hatched for about four months, never laying any eggs. I took a pair of eggs and put them under her. She was hatching all right, looked healthy, never was droopy; hatched about one week, then died. I examined her and found she had fatty infiltration of the liver and bowels; no canker. This js something I never heard of before, but J am sure of my diagnosis, L, M, BAILEY, MD, 58 Swallows. On account of their handsome marking they are a very handsome bird, extensively bred and popular. They get their name from their close resemblance to the Sea Swallow. They Ne iw a a boos have hazel colored eyes, long slender beak, shell crests and heavily feathered on toes and legs. Their body color is white with colored wings and toe feathers. Satinettes and Blondinettes. The Satinettes and Blondinettes are one of the oldest vari- eties of pigeons in existence, but just where they originated from is a mystery, and they belong to that group of pigeons known as Oriental Frills and, as their name implies, it is pre- sumed they had their origin in the Far East. The Satinettes and Blondinettes are very much alike. The Blondinettes may be termed a dark-bodied bird and the Satinette a white-bodied bird, with only colored shoulders and tails. The Blondinette is laced over the entire body and the Satinette on the shoulders. The Jacing should be regular and free from moss, the ground color 59 being white. The Barred birds in both varieties should have the spot tail with pure white boas, edged with a dark line with the distinction in the marking as in the laced birds. DISEASES AND THEIR REMEDIES. On previous pages of this book we have endeavored to help the pigeon breeders to keep and care for their birds in such a way as to keep them in good health, but diseases will come, and sometimes when almost ideal conditions surround the birds, and when they do come you naturally want to know a remedy that has been tried and true. Canker, Canker is a disease that will oft times make its appearance in the best regulated lofts. It attacks a bird sometimes in the ear, nostrils and mouth and throat. The disease in any section is a very contagious one, and it is hardly worth while doctoring the specimen unless it be a valuable bird, and the same treatment used for mouth and throat canker will not affect a cure for canker of the ear, and a bird that recovers from an attack is not a good specimen to breed from, as it often makes its appearance in the squabs and oft times the whole loft is polluted and the breeder wonders how his birds contracted the disease. Canker inside the mouth and on the tongue can be cured by scraping it 60 off until the blood comes and burnt powdered alum sprinkled on. This is one of the most effective cures for canker. Canker in the ear is not as easily cured as canker in the mouth, and the ear washed gently with a solution of bicarbonate of soda and water daily will affect a cure if taken in time and the bird is given the proper attention. Pigeon Pox. A common and contagious disease caused by filthy condi- tions, moulding food, filthy drinking water, etc., is pigeon pox. It first makes its appearance like a little pimple and developes into a warty growth. When pulled off small root-like threads come with it and a quantity of pus and a watery fluid which has a very disagreeable odor. The only cure known is to cut around the growth in such a way so that when the wart is pulled off the roots will come with it. Then wash the wound with a solu- tion of carbolic acid and water and then apply a healing salve. The disease is curable, but remember very contagious. Going Light. ‘Going light is the curse of the pigeon world. Whole flocks have been cleared out, and on account of this disease many hun- dreds of fanciers gave up the business in despair and disgust and when it makes its appearance quick action is necessary to prevent it from spreading. It is sometimes catsed by birds get- ting chilled coming or going to shows. Dirty food and water, filthy houses and runs and tuberculosis can, in almost every instance, be traced to some neglect on the part of the owner. . From appearances to the unexperienced the bird seents well but in a few days dies, having wasted to a mere skeleton. The dis- ease starts with diarrhoea, and in the course of a few days thie bird becomes so weak that it is unable to flub, When a bird so afflicted is found I would advise to take it out of the flock and kill it. While there are a humber of remedies that in some cases will cure, yet I do not think it advisable to give any here. As stated above, when it is first discovered, kill the specimen, clean up, disinfect and eradicate the cause which in nearly every case you are able to do. 6% Leg Weakness. Sometimes this is due to injury of the spine, but more fre- quently to rheumatism. Injury to the spinal cord does not give much encouragement of effecting a cure, for in many cases the paralysis will become complete. For leg weakness caused by rheumatism remove the bird to dry, comfortable quarters, feed sparingly of strong food and the bird will usually come around alright. Prevent Rather Than Cure. As an old Saying goes, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” This is certainly a true saying so far as “the pigeon business is concerned. If birds are given the proper care and attention and such necessities in the way of lime, sand, grit, salt, charcoal, a proper place to bathe in, and common. sense used in making the building comfortable and sanitary you will have no more trouble in raising pigeons than you will have with poultry. 62 Red Pyle Game Bantam. Male, PART IL. BANTAMS. The Advance of the Bantam Industry. What a pleasure it must be to the old breeder as he walks down the aisles of our leading shows and lets his memory drift back fifteen or twenty years and compares the exhibits and the "quality seen in those days to our present-day exhibits and quality. In those days if a hundred bantams were seen in shows it was considered remarkable, and the quality was very crude. Now we see sometimes as high as 1,500 in a single exhibition, and the quality of the classes as a whole is just as good as the standard bred birds, and in some classes excels. The advance of the bantams has kept pace with the standard varieties, and to every dollar that was invested in them twenty years ago there are one hundred dollars invested to-day, and many men are making an exclusive business of it and find it profitable. As a general rule the breeders of the different varieties find it impos- ‘sible to meet the demand, and a demand is bound to increase. As the city man fully realizes that it is impossible to raise suc- cessfully standard fowls on his ten by twelve yard, yet at the same time he not only finds it profitable but pleasant as well to raise and care for forty or fifty bantams in the same space as he could keep ten or fifteen hens in an unsatisfactory and un- profitable way. To-day many of the finest exhibition specimens are raised on the small city lot, and we dare say that those going into the bantam business will ‘find it pleasant and profitable as well as having the assurance of an increasing demand, 4 Bantams and Bantam Fanciers. By W. C. Stoeckel. During the last few years I have read quite a few poultry magazines and could count on my fingers the number of bantam articles that have been published. In these articles it is usually the same cry: “More about Bantams.” There are certainly some good bantams in the country; some of them are shown at the large shows, but I fear most of them are in hiding—or discarded ; the term applies either way. Why is it that bantams ate thus ignored? Why should they be hidden from the world? Why should they be forgotten? Truly, the bantams are beautiful creatures and worthy all the publicity that can be given them. T will admit that there are a number of good bantam fariciers scattered throughout the country ; some of these fanciers exhibit, but the majority of them say, “It is too much trouble; we do not have enough time to condition our birds and get them ready for the shows.” If this is true, then what is the use of breeding bantams at all—why not let the breed become extinct? If the fancier is tired of his bantams—if his love has grown cold, then it would be an easy matter to pass them along to some other fancier who would care for them—who would help boom them and make them as popular as they were some years ago. If you are a bantam breeder and happen to be defeated in the show-room, don’t let that discourage you—say nothing about it, but endeavor to produce something that will win next year. You can do it if you will but try. Then you will become a true fancier and your competitors will appreciate it too. Nearly every man ‘has a little spare time I am sure; what is a better use for that spare time than to devote it to these pretty, miniature pets? If you have had the interesting experience of successfully breeding and improving your stock—write about it; tell what you have done—how you have done it, etc. This will help to arouse an increased interest in Bantams everywhere. Merely some one to assume the initiative is all that is necessary; the publishers would be glad to give space to articles of this description. ; rake 65 If you have produced a good’ specimen, have a neat halftone cut engraved ; this will make your article more interesting and you can also use the cut on your stationery with show record of the bird printed below. This will help to advertise your stock and will explain to your prospective customers, better than words, what you have to offer. To-day the poultry press harps on one subject exclusively— “utility.” Everything is utility it seems, and possibly this condi- tion will exist for some time. But we should not forget that a number of fanciers are in existence--real, true fanciers; it is “up to them” to save the Bantam. Will they rally to the support of the cause? That, I fear, is another story. However, if you are a Bantam breeder, and if you write good, snappy, gingery Bantam stories, the publishers will be mighty glad to give Bantam copy of this nature publicity. They appreciate a good. thing; they are anxious to further the fancy as well as the utility end. Yes, there is room for the utility poultrymen and the fanciers—plenty of room.. If you are an embryo I would suggest a few things, although I don’t want to say\too much, as I am in a position to learn con- siderably more myself, being, im a way, ibut an amateur. The first thing I would suggest is: “Don’t ibein too much of a hurry to buy until you know just what you want. When you have decided what variety of Bantams you prefer, go through the poul- try papers thoroughly, and then write to the fanciers who seem to have the stock that most appeals to you. Don’t be afraid to pay a dollar or two more than you thik necessary. Remember, high priced stock is ofttimes cheaper in the end.” When you invest in stock, fight shy of the man who has a _bargain—who wants to sell'cheap. In ninety-nine cases out:of a hundred there is something wrong—something “rotten in Denmark.” One or two varieties will give you all the trouble you an- ticipate, and more too, sometimes. Don’t endeavor to breed quality and quantity at the same time. This combination never seems to mix any better than does oil and water. Do not crowd -your ‘birds. They will not thrive if they do trot ‘have room to turn around. H they are crowded their plum- age will stuffer ; many bantam judges are very strict along this line. Some breeders recommend that the beginner and others 5 66 should stunt their birds. I would not suggest this. It requires just as much nourishment to make feathers as it does to make flesh. Breed them down in the natural way, and in the end you will be better satisfied. Stunted birds are not good breeders. After you have a nice pen of birds, the next very important matter is to handle them intelligently and keep them clean—in sanitary pens with plenty of fresh air, proper ventilation, ete. If you keep them in pens of the above description, then you will have a healthy, clean-looking flock of bantams, the kind of a flock any fancier can well be proud of. In hatching and raising chicks, be very careful. Don’t let White Cochin Bantam. Female. them get wet or have a chill. Don’t feed them too much, espe- cially when they are quite small. Don’t kill them with kindness. If you throw them an overdose of grain they will eat more than they should, and what they leave untouched will become moldy. They may be hungry before you feed them their breakfast and eat this unhealthy grain. This will harm them more than you would believe possible. Rather than feed too much, keep them a trifle hungry all the time; make them scratch for their “daily bread” and they will thus gain the necessary exercise. If you have one or two sick chicks in your flock and if you 67 feel that they are beyond human skill, it is an easy matter to put them out of their misery. If you would like to save them, especially if they are quite valuable, separate them from the healthy chicks immediately, and don’t put off doing this either. One sick chick often means that the entire flock will soon be walking about on “crutches” unless prompt methods are taken at once to prevent the disease from spreading. It is also a good thing to join one of the bantam clubs. There are several good clubs, one of the best being the National Bantam Association, of which Geo. L. Young, of Brooklyn, N. Y., is secretary. The North Eastern Pennsylvania Bantam Club is ‘also one of the best American bantam organizations; J. A. Rose, of Scranton, Pa., is the secretary of this club. Either of these gentlemen wold be glad to forward application blanks and all necessary information to any one desiring to join. The favorite bantam motto is: “More and better bantams ; keep ever- lastingly at it.” Starting in the Fancy. We all have to make a beginning in‘some way and at some time. It is true, some start with eggs, some with a pair, trio or pen of birds, while others start to become fanciers on the “whole- sale.plan”—buying several hundred eggs or eight or ten pens of fowls. In addition to this they start artificial incubation in an effort to rear sevetal thousand chickens per year expecting all to be winners. Without any previous experience in the business and with a large flock of birds to care for, is it any wonder they Lecome discouraged, sell out and start the cry that there is no money in “fancy poultry?” If I were starting to becomie a fancier again and wishing to avoid the many disappointinents that befall the amateur, I would first consider the question of quality, and would purchase from a breeder that had the qitality atid bred it himself year by year. It makes no difference whether tie breeds 100 or 1,000 fowls per annum, if he breeds tHe right kitid, atid in the right way. One setting or two of the best eggs, arid if you care also to make a larger investment and purchase breeding bitds, then buy a pair or trio of first-class breeders; it never pays to start with a large number because they can be bought for the same price as two ur three good birds. If a breeder is successful enough each year 68 to improve his quality and win out against all competitors, be- sides furnishing his customers with the winners and the breeders and eggs that produce the winners, don’t you think he should ask more and expect more for his strain than those that simply claim they have the best in the world or finest that were ever produced, and yet never come to the front and prove the quality they claim? I would rather buy one setting of eggs at $5 than two for the same money; or, to purchase two birds for $25 than to receive five birds for that price. The better bird you buy the higher percentage of quality you obtain, and the shorter time it will take to produce a flock of standard excellence. Buy pedi- greed stock, if possible, and use trap nests to continue the pedi- grees, as there is no surer nor quicker method to reach the ranks of a fancier. You will become better acquainted with the birds, individually, and this is a great advantage when you are ready to mate them up. Never breed from culls or “chance” birds, or purchase them at any price; they are the highest-priced stock you could possi- bly buy, and the “$l-a-setting” egg investment does not pay any better. ; The fancy business can be started from standard matings, often called utility matings, but if fancy points instead of eggs and market produce is the object, then, we should be but wasting time, as it takes several years, even by the pedigree system, to build up high exhibition quality from standard matings, and if time is worth anything, our debit from same would cause the balance to be on the wrong side of the ledger at the end of our experience. Black Cochin Bantam. Male 69 The Housing and Mating of Bantams. By M. K. Miller, Pottstown, Pa. One of the most important steps in the successful breeding of bantams is the housing. Bantams, to be bred successfully, should have their houses free from dampness and reasonably warm in winter. Great care should be taken in regards to damp quarters. Dampness causes colds, which soon develop into roup, canker and other diseases, which often prove fatal. Too much care cannot be taken in building or selecting houses. They should be free from cracks admitting any drafts of air, with good tight floors, sanded to a depth of several inches, this covered with cut hay, chaff or any other dry litter. They should aiso be made tight enough at night to keep out all marauding animals. The latter experience we have bought and paid dearly for. It is, however, not copyrighted or patented; any one may have the same experience by not following timely warning. In mating bantams, pens should consist of a male and not over five females, while some varieties, such as Rose Combs and Japanese produce better results if bred in trios. Better results will be obtained by mating pens of this number than larger ones, as more eggs will be fertilized and the peeps hatched will be stronger and more likely to live to maturity. As with any other variety of fowls, the cock is half of the pen. Therefore too much care cannot be displayed in his selection. He should be a good, strong, vigorous bird, of fair size, as a small undersized male bird is seldom a good breeder. He should be strong in all points where females are weak. We have found a bird of nearly stand- ard weight to be more vigorous and stronger, producing more fertile eggs that will hatch chicks of greater vitality. We do not advocate the use of large’ and oversize birds, as we know from experience that standard weights can be maintained with- out breeding the undersized birds, which is always at the ex- pense of stamina. In mating, produce the best stock you can afford and keep on improving until you have the best. The better your stock the more fascinating the breeding and more valuable your stock will be. KAS) That Bantam House. By Reeves Congdon. I want to tell your readers just a few words in regard to housing bantams. I have been breeding the little fellows only a short time compared with some, since 1905, and I believe I am just learning the first rudiments in bantam breeding. I do not want to convey the idea that I think I know all there is to know and just a little more. Not so, for I am always willing to listen and try and learn from those whom I know have grown gray in Brown Red Game Bantam Hen. the enterprise, as their years of experience must surely have taught them some good things. However, I have learned this much from experience, that it is a waste of time and money for me to try and house bants in glass-front houses and keep them free from dampness and colds. I believe from the very outset, when I first began, that no matter what fowl was going to be housed, it needed fresh air and plenty of it without getting draughts in the house. Hence I built my bantam house per- fectly tight on three sides and placed a removable curtain in the 71 front. These houses are 5 feet long and 3 feet deep, 30 inches high in front and 20 inches at the back, with a roosting closet 20 by 24 inches, about 10 inches clear from the floor, which al- lows them all of the 15 feet of floor space for scratching. Over the front of the closet I placed a curtain which drops down tq within 2 inches of closet floor. This I only use on very cold nights during zero weather. I have always found that the hens were just as willing to lay their eggs in nests that were placed on the side walls, just above their heads or on a level with floor of roosting closet, as any other. Sometimes I cover the nests Nee SIN eu awe © = ag 5 OD ANDY in he : — Golden Seabright Bantam Hen. with a piece of tarred paper by just tacking the paper around one end and side, leaving only one end exposed to light upon, then draw the paper up to wall as high as need be and tack it there; this not only darkens the nest but stops roosting on edge of nest, as some fowls are wont to do. My floors are always covered with plenty of litter from the hay mow, and how the birds love to scratch and dig for their feed, as I am sure to cover every grain fed so they will have to work for it. In this house I usua#fy keep a breeding pen of male and four or five females the year around, and let me say right here, that I never knew what a cold or case of roup was, every bird was as healthy as they could possibly be while in their 72 houses. Now I know you are wondering why I said I had learned from experience, etc. Last fall I added a new variety to my list and although I knew just what curtain fronts meant for me I was foolish enough to try a glass-front house. The idea struck me that perhaps the glass would draw the sun and make the house somewhat warmer, and I believe it did through the daytime, when the sun shone, but at night it also drew moisture from the birds’ breath and from appearance of that glass I actu- ally believe it must have drawn moisture from the breath of the sparrows on the nearby trees and several other things for miles around, for in two days after placing the birds in there that glass was so thickly covered with frost as to darken the house, and as a result my male bird, in just six days, got tired of eating and breathing and is now under the snow. The females were not quite so badly affected, and I finally got them around to them- selves again. And you may be sure that house has a curtain front at this writing, and the curtain is removed every day except when stormy. Now I am waiting for some fellow to come along and tell me about a glass-front house, and I will tell him a story with a different tune. 73 Breeding Fancy Bantams. By M. K. Miller. No branch of the poultry interest has advanced so rapidly as has the breeding of bantams. We see among the breeders of to-day all classes from the day laborer to the millionaire. In breeding any variety of bantams the same rules must be followed as in breeding any of the large varieties of fowls. The most important factor is in selecting good healthy stock. Unless the parent stock is healthy, vigorous and free from hereditary ailment one can not expect satisfactory results. From weak birds many of the eggs will not be fertile and those that are will hatch chicks of low vitality that seldom grow to maturity. Those that do will be subject to roup and other diseases. A bantam that has once had a severe attack of roup is not a fit bird to breed from. The offspring will in nine cases out of ten be puny weaklings, and a source of annoyance and dis- couragement to the breeder. Never buy a bird to breed from that you know has been diseased simply because the price is low. The hearty, vigorous ones at a fair price are always the cheapest and the results obtained more satisfactory. The breeder who devotes his time to only one breed is by far more sure of success. To breed bantams successfully, not only great care is required but superior intelligence and a constant study in order to. acquire a thorough knowledge of the breed undertaken. This is truer in the breeding of fancy bantams than of almost any other animal. I would not advise any one to undertake the breeding of fancy bantams with the selfish notion of making money only, unless he has considerable experience in the laws which govern those of reproduction. As a rule, beginners enter into the business with great expectations and dreams of financial success, but ofttimes fail, Gnly to try again until his past experience has taught him what a difficult art it is. Still, one is bound to succeed in time if lots of grit, pluck, a level head, and, above all, a natura! love for the kind bred, also a standard of the variety bred to be able to know what to breed for. Breeding fancy bantams means birds bred to standard requirements and as pure as it is possible to breed them. To obtain any degree of perfection in any variety 74 becomes possible only by keeping and breeding for the best. Fancy bantams command high prices and eggs from prize win- ners command equally high prices. The raising of fancy bantams is a business that requires experience, preseverance and patience, but when the objective poist is gained one’s time and trouble is offset by the profit there is in them. Great popularity has come to these little beauties and in many instances high values are placed upon and realized for them. It is to be hoped that ban- tam breeders everywhere will stamp out entirely the breeding and selling of poor quality at any price, and thts elevate then so that those who breed and fancy them may feel secure that they have only good quality. White Cochin Bantam, Male. Variety Bantams. Like most other fanciers I have been a lover of poultry cver since my boyhood days. During that time my experience has been limited exclusively to variety bantams, particularly Cochin- Japanese and Rose Combs. I well remember when a mere boy how father used to point out the good and bad qualities of-a bird and in that way made the bantam industry a very pleasant study for me. We first began with Black Tailed Japanese and a short time afterwards added the White Japanese, which we have been breed- 75 ing continuously. Bantams as a rule are conceded to be harder to raise than other breeds of poultry, this is particularly so of the Japanese. One of the first essentials in breeding any variety of poultry is the necessity of having good parent stock. Not only healthy but typical in shape and carriage. A great mistake is often made in allowing for instance a bird with excellent shape, color, etc., but deficient in comb or some other detail to be kept in the breeding pen. True it is, it may produce one or so fair birds, but in the majority of cases you will have many culls. Therefore it is essen- tial that we have a good breeding pen to begin with, say six females and a male. We have found that the best mature bantams are those hatched in the latter part of May or June, for then we need have no fear of cold weather, something which is particularly hard on bantams. One thing which a great many breeders of poultry seem to neglect is the home for the birds. I believe that one thing more than any other which has caused us to be successful in rearing bantams is the fact that we have always taken great care of the houses and runs of our birds. Houses should above all be kept clean and free from lice and this can only be done by conscien- tious work on the part of the breeder. Keep the house well dis- infected and there is nothing better than a good coat of white wash with carbolic added, This can be done several times a year, and the roosts and perches can be cleaned once or twice a week and-then disinfected. We have found the small house, similar to a colony house, the most desirable for bantams, for it is easily kept clean and the breeds can be kept separate with no danger of spread of dis- ease. During the cold winter months we enclose the roosts with bagging and in this way need not employ any artificial heat and at the same time the birds sleep good and warm. In sum- mer it is just as essential that plenty of ventilation be had, for if anything hinders the development of any breed, and particu- larly of bantams, it is overcrowding and want of ventilation. Now as to runs for bantams. There is a great difference of opinion on this question, but we have always given our birds from chicks up a very good range. During the last five years we have had our yards turned into lawns by harrowing and 76 sowing of grass seed. In this way the birds are kept clean and at the same time get plenty of good green grass. Of course we provide a place for dusting, which is essential. We hatch all our bantams by the good old mother hen, a bantam preferably, for they are less clumsy and make excellent mothers, particularly the Cochin bantams. The bantam is certainly coming to the fore as one of the leading breeds of poultry, and here in Lancaster County we are doing all in our power to bring the bantam to the front, where it belongs. All we need now is a good paper like the Poultry Item to help us along and we trust the day is not far distant when a more prominent place shall be given to the bantam in the poultry world: DR. C. H. WITMER. Rose Comb Black. Male. Bantams—Black and White Rosecombs. My experience with bantams varies very little from that with larger fowl. Like most other fanciers I have been a lover of poultry from boyhood and among my first possessions was a bantam hen and a brood of chicks (large fowls) given me by my mother when wife and I began housekeeping, now almost eigh- teen years ago. I have had a few Buff Cochin, quite a number of Partridge Cochin, but Rose Combs, both black and white, has been my delight. I first began breeding Black Rose Combs 77 ; from a trio bought and said to be good stock. I have found this to be true and have bred within that line or strain for several years, and my winnings at Chicago, Fort Wayne and Toledo prove that I have the goods. One wants large, satiny earlobes, as near pure white as is possible to have them, a good comb, well set, with the spike at the proper angle, the feathers pure black with as little purple as possible, wing feathers free from white or gray, wing and tail long and carried well down. I believe where many make a mis- take is in breeding from ordinary or even poor specimens, better breed from a pair or trio of good ones than a score of ordinary Duck Wing Game Bantam Hen. birds. In hatching I have found bantam hens preferable to others, or even the incubator. Place them in a quiet place, allow- ing them to go and come as they please; when chicks are hatched keep them well protected from wind, rain and cold. In fact, best results are obtained by keeping them in some building that has a window or two to admit the sunlight. Bread soaked in sweet milk and then well drained is a good feed, ateo~eustard made of egg and milk, slightly seasoned with salt and pepper and boiled quite hard. However, I have used a considerable amount of commercial chick feed with good results. Some say that after three weeks they can be let run and very little attention paid to 78 them. I have found that good care all the time and at all ages well repays one; in fact, this applies to all poultry, little or big. The White Rose Combs I have found a httle harder to rear, but I think they have been in-bred to such an extent that their constitutions are weakened. They are liable to the same defects that all white fowls are, and should be carefully culled and mated to produce good birds. Bantam breeders lack co-operation as yet and do not get their just dues at many of our shows. This is their own fault, for as in everything else we do not get something for nothing and the way to get recognition is to go after it. 79 THE SEABRIGHT BANTAMS, GOLDEN AND SILVER. Breeding and Mating Seabright Bantams. By M. K.. Miller, Pottstown, Pa. The breeding of either Golden or Silver Seabrights is not a game of chance, but a business with uncertainties enough to make it interesting and very often disappointing. To hold your own, great care in mating must be exercised. Many who are breeding one or the other of these varieties can see only one of the many desired qualities and mate for that one point alone. Visit a breeder and it will be a very easy matter to see what ion Seabright Bantams. his hobby is regarding the breed. He will often overtook all other points except that particular one. Many lose sight of Sea- bright shape entirely while striving for lacing; others are looking for a clear, cloudless tail, consequently the all around specimen is entirely overlooked for the bird good in that one section. Of the two varieties it is very hard to tell which is the most popular. The only difference in the two varieties is the body color; that of the Golden being a rich golden and that of the Silver a silvery white; each feather should be laced all around with a narrow lacing of glossy black. Many Seabrights have-narrow lacing up the side of the feather, and quite wide on the end, or it may be too wide around the entire feather. The latter is preferable 80 to the former. The correct width of lacing in either variety is about 1-16 of an inch. To get the desirable glossy black edging you must have a dark undercolor. Many specimens that from outside appearance look perfect, show when opened up few feathers laced into the undercolor. Another important feature often lost sight of even by judges in the show room is the shape of the feather. The true Seabright feather and one that shows off the lacing to the best advantage is a rather broad one with a round end. Many are bred with a long, narrow feather with ends that look as if they had been clipped off straight across. A bird might be- perfectly laced and in shape anything but a Seabright. The perfect Seabright should have a small, neat head, carried well back, with full bright eyes, rose comb, square in front and evenly serrated, tapering at the rear in a spike inclined slightly upward, well arched and tapering neck, absolutely free from hackle feathers, short back wings rather large and carried moderately low, giving them a strutting appearance, tail of good size, well spread and carried pretty high, free from sickle feathers, al- though a male bird with slightly longer feathers on top of tail will prove the best breeding bird. The tail coverts should be evenly laced all around and free from mossiness (or white in Goldens). This point is often neglected and we see even in the show room many birds with tail feathers tipped or spangled with black. They should also have moderately short legs. Many specimens are bred to-day with long stilty legs, and long backs; in fact, anything but a true Seabright in shape. Unquestionably the Seabright when bred true to shape and color is the most beautiful, aristocratic, sauciest and most fashionable ornamental bantams bred to-day, and they are veritable little egg machines. In breeding Seabrights it is best to select a small male bird in preference to small females. Larger females are more pro- ductive and chicks hatched are stronger. Seabright chicks being of a delicate nature, it is better to use hens in preference to pullets for breeding, unless early hatched, then they should prove equally good. If possible have both male and females as near perfect in all sections as you can get them, but should the male be weak in any point see that the females to mate him are strong in those points. However, extremes do not give the best results. Tf care is exercised in mating, however, even better results may 81 be obtained by using two matings, one for cockerel and another for pullet breeding. For a cockerel mating select a sound rather wide-laced male bird, very distinct in breast and tail. The females to mate him should be finely laced with a good, black (not dark brown) lacing, each flight feather of the wing should be laced to the end, the tail should also be well laced to the end with perfectly clear centers, free from white or black in the Goldens and black in Silvers. The male for pullet breeding should be a very narrow-laced bird with a good breast. A good comb is very essential in both matings, clear in center of tail feathers and also well laced, and well-laced wing ends, the females should be rather heavy laced, and well-laced thighs, tail and tail coverts; these are very important points in pullet breeding. With matings as described one will seldom fail to breed a good percentage of prize winners. As to the number of females to breed to a male, breeders differ, -but we usually breed from three to five—very much depends upon the vigor of the male. Seabrights are a very profitable bantam to breed. Good specimens are always in great demand. In all our years: of breeding we have never had any trouble to dispose of all we can raise, at prices that pay well for the care and expense. Seabrights and Their Origin. By F. D. Lewis. Seabright bantams present the finest example of success, with what might be called artificial breeding, in the world. They are entirely made up from crossing various varieties together, and after over a century of breeding present a perfect variety. The black lacing around their feathers, and their low-set combs are hard to breed in fowls. Not only here are they re- markable, but the males are entirely hen feathered; having no hackles, saddle feathers or sickles—the only instance of such a combination of omissions in all the fowl kingdom. But most of all is the remarkable lacing shown by the best specimens of both golden and silvers, each feather evenly laced all around with the glossy black on the clear ground color of gold or silver. 6 82 Seabright bantams were originated by Sir John Seabright, an English nobleman, over one hundred and twenty-five years ago. It took this nobleman many years to develop all the crosses and so to blend the product as to finally evolve the most charming of the bantam tribes, but with great perseverance he progressed with the breed until he had surmounted all difficulties and if he accomplished nothing else has left behind him a name that will always be known, and a lasting memorial to his taste and skill as a breeder. It is supposed the birds used as crosses were chiefly Golden and Silver Polish and Black and White Rose Combs and Wankin ( is i oS, wh Zs A, SOS RES # oS de $e yr Zee B. B. Red Game Bantam Hen. Bantams. Although it is thought it is possible some other birds were also used; at any rate it has been positively said that, if at the present time, Seabrights were entirely lost, that by crossing the above-named breeds the Seabrights could be repro- duced after years of careful breeding, Golden and Silver Seabright bantams resemble each other in black and white illustrations in all respects, as they are; except in ground color or plumage. Golden Seabrights, both eock and hen, should be exactly alike in color; the ground color of different strains show a good deal of.shade from the very yellow gold to 83 the dark bay. We have always liked the medium color the best or as the Standard calls it, “golden bay.” The ground color of the Silvers is milk white, or just a trifle shaded, called silvery white. The latter color we prefer. The lacing of both varieties should be a rich green black, or as the Standard calls it, “glossy black,” and each feather should be laced all around evenly without outer fringe of gold or white. Seabright bantams should be rather short-backed, short legged, compact bodies, with drooping wings, very prominent chests, head thrown back, tail carried rather high and feathers rather short, and another thing rather peculiar to Seabright ban- tams is the quivering movements of the body so common with Buff Cochin. Male. Fantail pigeons. This is very often very noticeable, but not common with all Seabrights. All Seabrights should have slate blue legs and feet. In these varieties there is no need for different pens to breed males and females, as both sexes are in all respects alike as far as markings are concerned. - We have always been advocates of early hatching of ban- tams, May and June, but not later than July. Bantams bred after July may be a trifle smaller, but with good stock to start with the earlier birds will prove the more healthy, and prove more satisfactory. 84 Cuckoo or Scotch Grey Bantams. Never in the history of poultry shows has the display, of bantams been so large and interesting as at the fall fairs. One is inclined, at first thought, to declare: how could that be pos- sible? why the fall shows are made up of the riffraff of poultry- men and how could the show of bantams be at all interesting? There was a time when one could say that, but I am glad to say that it was in the long-distant past. One finds now at the larger agricultural fairs as fine and large displays of all varieties of pure bred fowls as is seen at the crack winter shows. Especi- ally is this true of bantams. There was a time when exhibitors kept their bang-up good ones for the winter show and sent only their culls to the agricultural fairs, but that has changed. One now sees the noted winners of the winter before at the largest shows and the chicks that bring in the money at the same shows the coming winter. It now takes a good bird to win the blue at the fall shows, as it does at the winter ones, and in most cases a win means fully as much honor and more of the necessary to fill the feed bins in these times of high grain prices. I have been impressed for some time past, and have written several articles along the same lines, by the scarcity of the rarer varieties of ban- tams. When I was in the fancy it was my greatest pleasure to have the rarer varieties and the newest ones and work with the view of improvement. It seems at the present time that the great majority of bantam breeders have no thought abeve the standard varieties. Sure there is much more pleasure to enter heartily into the spirit of improvement and take hold of a new variety and by hard and persistent work see it mount higher and higher until-it stands way up near the top and hear the well-earned plaudits of the fanciers who can appreciate in its fullest sense what it means to climb to such a vantage point. How many years have passed since you have seen a first-class Cuckoo or Scotch Grey bantam? I have not seen a single specimen for five years and in that time I have handled many thousand of the little beauties. The first specimens were found in Scotland some fifty years ago and were evidently produced by a fusion of pure black with pure white and it is a well-known fact amongst breeders that this fusion will produce cuckoo markings, so you can readily see that every breeder of bantams has on hand at all times the desired material to produce cuckoos. I have known instances 85 where white and black rose combs have been crossed for ear lobe betterment and cuckoos were the result, and I feel confident that the rose comb cuckoo is a sport from such a cross. Of the two varieties I have always preferred the single combs. They should be small, and in the rose combs you will always find them so. Combs should be perfectly erect in both sexes, ear lobes red, combs, faces and wattles red, legs white or mottled to match the. plumage, eyes red, feathers finely and evenly marked with dis- tinct bars or hands across each feather, and the finer the bars the better. The ground color should be a very pale French grey both in males and females and the bars should be of dark slate color. There should be no white feathers in tails or wings and here is where many specimens fall down, as it is very difficult to remedy this defect. Black feathers are often seen in hackles and saddles-and although very much better than the white they are not all desirable. In breeding cuckoos I would prefer a cock bird, dark in color, and as fine in bars as possible. The natural tendency of the breed is to revert to the broader and more open markings, which are of very. much less value. You will get some black and also some white sports, but I would never breed them. It would be an easy matter to produce a strain of rose combs by mating a well-marked single comb cock with rose comb black females and then mating a cuckoo cockerel bred from them to the black females again, until the desired results were obtained. Some of the snappiest little birds 1 ever owned were Cuckoo Pekins and were produced by a direct cross of black and white Cochin bantams and I want to say no more beautiful and inter- esting variety lives, and as I said before, you have the necessary at hand to get busy, and I sincerely hope you will, and at the coming shows let us have again some bang-up, good cuckoos. As a guide in case you should seriously consider my suggestion and take up cuckoos, I will give you the points of color in the Cuckoo Cochin bantam which I consider by far the most beauti- ful of them all. Comb, face, ear lobes and wattles—Bright red. Eyes—Red. Beak—Orange-yellow or yellow, slightly marked with corn color. Plumage—Light French gray-ground, every feather evenly 86 and distinctly barred across several times with dark slate. The markings must be as fine and regular as possible, and the birds free from white and straw. Legs and feet—Sound orange-yellow. CHARLES T. CORNMAN, Carlisle, Pa. Red Pyle Game. Male. The Cochin or Pekin Bantams are bred in buff, white, black and partridge and they should be cochins in miniature, with small, evenly and ‘nicely serrated combs, broad chest, thick neck, with a short, broad back, with a nicely rounded cushion, with legs very heavily feathered, right to the end of the middle toe. It is hard to say which of the four varieties are the most popular and extensively bred, as large classes in all are seen at the shows and the interest seems to be fairly well divided. Aside from the Games they are the most popular of bantams and many claim them to be equal in popularity to them. Popularity of the Cochin Bantam. Did you ever stop to notice in going through the show rooms what variety of bantams the general public usually stop and look at most, the kind that attracts the most attention? More 87 than once I have heard some lady exclaim, “Oh! aren’t they the finest birds you ever saw?” pointing to the row of buffs. Right they are; there is no question about that. As setters and mothers there is no better. As I heard one fellow say: “They will set any place, on anything, and any length of time.” Seldom breaking an egg or killing a chick, they have come to be the dependent birds of the pheasant breeders of the country, and they are the ones who value their eggs at long prices. As layers they are good, and some of you people who have not room to keep the large birds would do well to have a few to lay some fresh eggs instead of buying six months to one year old cased eggs from the West. The cost of keeping a few is practically nothing. They require the least room of any of the bantams, a yard 10x 15 being plenty Black Cochin Bantam Hen. of room for five or six, with a small dry goods box for a house. Now, let me say if you contemplate breeding a few birds for pleasure of fancy (and there is a lot of sport showing in the dif- ferent shows, winning occasionally, getting beat once in a while), you can make no mistake in starting with the grandest of all bantams—‘“Cochin.” Brahma Bantams. The Brahma bantams are bred in both light and dark vari- eties, and like the Cochins, are miniatures of the standard birds, but are not as yet to their state of perfection, but the past several years has made marked improvements on them, and it will not be long until they show the same quality as the standard birds. One of the hard problems in breeding the bantams is to 88 keep them down in size. Many a bird, fine otherwise, has lost size. They are becoming very popular and are hardy and easy to raise. Good specimens command good prices and a ready sale. . Booted Bantams. Booted bantams do not seem to be very popular and are not as extensively bred as any of the others. It is the opinion of those still breeding them that their merits and beauty are not appreciated as much as they should be. They are bred in black and white, both plain and muffed. Booted bantams resemble the Pekins very much. However, they are longer in the legs as well as carrying more abundant tail furnishings. They have a single comb, larger than the Pekin, short back, and the wings drooping, tail should be carried high, foot feathering should be of good length and the hock feathers should be large and stiffer than the Cochins. Polish Bantams. The beauties of the miniature feathered world are the Polish Bantams and they are fast becoming general favorites. Whites are the most popular and buff laced a close second. Like the standard breed their beauty is in crest and sprightly carriage. The crest of the male-should be as large as possible, globular in form, rising upright from the beak and crescent shape in outline and the pullet very compact and round. The Japanese Bantams. The Japanese bantam is one of the prettiest varieties we have as well as one of the most popular. They are bred in different colors, the whites and black-tailed being the most popular. The Japanese bantams area very peculiarly shaped bird. Their thighs and legs are so short that their bodies almost touch the ground. In fact, the lower down they are the better. Their wings are long and broad and carried downward. The tail should be carried in an upright position, as will be noticed by the illustration, erect head and prominent breast. They are easily raised and find a ready sale. 89 Game Bantams—Points of Most Value. By F. B. Zimmer. Perhaps if the question “What is the most desirable quality in Game bantams?” was put to the average admirer of these interesting little birds, the answer would be spontaneous, “Sta- tion.” We have come to this conclusion from our experience as judges for over twenty-five years, from conversation with scores of breeders of the different varieties of Game bantams and from visits to the yards of many breeders. -We beg to differ with all those of that opinion. However, for the good of Game bantams we are glad to say not all Game bantam breeders or fanciers are of the sort that consider a leggy bird a good or typi- cal bird. Be Bo Red Came Banta” Wiate Station, good length of thigh and shank, is a very desirable quality, but that requisite in connection with a bird with a long, narrow body, long back or long wings that reach past the body, often cross points under the tail, or in fact any one of these objectionable traits or qualities never can be considered, or will be considered a high-class specimen by the real judge or critic. Yet we have noticed many times the blue ribbon on Game bantams at our best shows that were wider across the hips than at the shoulder and always this sort of bird is too long in back and body, and most-assuredly does not taper from shoulder to stern, or he could not be widest at hips, the center of the body, but these winners had station, and were hard feathered, both cov- go eted qualities, yet his body and back very objectionable, should have placed him below the bird ‘standing next or a few cages from him with wide shoulder, short back, tapering body, and short wings, well tucked up, that was not as long in thigh and shank. We claim that a Game bantam with pigeon wings alone can never, or should never, be considered in that charmed circle called high class. That no Game bantam is really “classy” that is too long in any one of these sections, viz.: Body, back or wings, regardless of how much station he may have or how grandly colored he may be. Nor one short in neck, with loose or long hackle, but that a bird (Game bantam) that has the heart shape, short body, short back, clean stern, short wing, long, clean Birchin Game Cock. neck and head, comes under the head of a really high-class speci- men, regardless of the fact that he is not just as “reachy” or exactly as clean in color as you would like, or as the Standard calls for “shape” makes him a classy representative of his breed. Iam not on the circuit any more as a judge, but I am interested in Game bantams. Don’t think I ever will forget Game bantam shape, and a bird to please me as a show bird, or a breeder, in my yards, must have Game bantam quality, or get out of my sight. No pigeon wings, or “swell box” bodies need apply, and should I ever consent to judge again at any of our shows, would advise exhibitors to leave that sort at home. gi A New Variety of Game Bantams. By B. C. Thornton. Concerning Game bantams I think I will allow more abler pens than mine to describe the different varieties. I will merely confine myself to a description of a new variety, and one, to my way of thinking, of the very handsomest in existence—the Lemon Blues. The Lemon Blues have been shown for a number of years at the Dairy and Crystal Palace; now classes are made for them at the Palace Show. I will now endeavor to describe the beautiful colors of the Lemon Blues, the reader bearing in mind that this variety is distinctly modern in shape and style. A pullet of this variety was held in reserve for best Game bantam pullet in the show. The color of male: Face and eyes dark; the neck hackle bright lemon striped with blue; back, saddle hackle and wing, a‘bright golden lemon, very even in color—as near as I can get it to a lavender blue, each feather being finely laced around by a shade darker; the tail blue. Female: Face and eyes dark; neck hackle lemon striped with blue, breast and body color an even shade of lavender blue, each feather laced with a shade darker blue. We (Fincke & Thornton) showed a trio of them at the recent New York show, and a pair at Boston. At both shows they created a mild sensation; their beautiful color, exquisite shape and style making a handsome contrast to the blue of the male. The lacing on the feathers of the females exhibiting a decidedly striking effect. Malay Bantams. When one considers the great and intensely enthusiastic army of Game bantam breeders and notes the large exhibits of high-class specimens at the larger shows, he is impressed with the fact that although the Malay bantam is closely allied to a large extent, resembling them in shape, habit, hardness of feather and color, yet they are not popular and one scarcely ever sees a good specimen. They have many points that stand out as sepa- rate and distinct. To that grand old breeder and originator of bantams, Mr. W. F. Entwistle, England, we owe the variety 92 He stood alone in the fancy when on earth, and although he has passed to the great beyond these many years ago, no one has dared to even try on the shoes he put off. He was the original producer of all the varieties of Malay bantams, and to the best of my knowledge, all the birds now extant have sprung from the birds he bred down from the large varieties. They are bred in five varieties, whites, pyles, pheasant, dark red and bright red, and about the only ones we are familiar with on this side are the whites, pyles and dark reds. In shape they have the same characteristics that make the large Malays stand out as a grand old bird that glories in all that goes to make strength, fashioned in every part as the draft horse is fashioned. Silver Duckwing Game Bantam Cock. Good specimens are but slightly larger than exhibition Game bantams, but they are stouter built, with broader shoulders, nar- row sterns and drooping tails. They should all have orange yel- low legs and bills and strawberry combs with pearl eyes. The three drooping curves seen in the large Malay should be exactly reproduced in the bantam. The first colors to show up were the whites and black reds, and they have always remained the fav- orite. They are hardy, their eggs always hatch and I have always found the chicks hardy and easy to rear. They lay fewer eggs than the exhibition Game bantams, laying eleven or twelve eggs before wanting to hatch. You can count on three clutches each season. They make splendid mothers after the weather becomes 93 warmer or if kept in rather a warm brood coop, for the reason that they are so tightly feathered the chicks have but little to hover in. The greatest trouble with the whites is to get them pure white in color. They will come sandy, and if you breed from such a cock bird you will always regret it, for it is almost impos- sible to stamp it out. I have several times been asked how best to get first-class Malay bantams. The best way is to buy the best pen you can get and breed them. If you have time and patience you can make a cross of the large Malay on Game Ban- tams of the desired color, and by careful recrosses get what -you want. You may try many times before you get fertile eggs, but the game is worth the candle if you have the patience. I shall not elaborate on the color markings, as almost every lover of Game Bantams is familiar with them. It has been with great sorrow that I have noticed this grand old breed dying out in this country. I imported and bred many fine specimens of these varieties, spending lots of good American dollars in my effort to gain popularity for this noble old breed. Is there not some one with sporting blood enough to take hold of them again? CHARLES T. CORNMAN. The Bantam for the Fancier. By F. D. E. Stowe. For the fancier no fowl fills the bill better than the Game ‘bantam. I say the Game bantam because they are the variety I know the most about; I speak from experience. A fancier, one whose main object is to breed to certain ideals, here finds him- self free from any pretense that he is breeding for eggs or poul- try, but goes to work to perfect a type. “Here in the Game bantam is a world of opportunity to work along present require- ments, for while wonderful specimens have been produced there is a great field still to conquer. If we get the length of leg wished for then those abominable long wings are present, or perhaps the bird is narrow at the shoulders or stands with shoulders parallel with the tail. The bird should stand erect, and unless it 94 does this, it has no style. A Game bantam without style is only a mongrel. The Game bantam is a prize show bird. One must study him and learn to appreciate him as you do classical music, for instance, or painting, for he is a creature of art when perfected. The possibilities are many and years of breeding have left much to be attained, and taking him at his present standard, years will not have attained the ideal. The difficulty is the search of ‘the fancier and utility stock is injured every year by some require- ments of the fancy. You can not ride two horses. Stock is either utility or fancy. By that is meant you make one the standard and will lose sight more or less of the other. The con- tinuous change of the type of the utility stock is an attempt to .make more difficult the breeding and thereby give the fancier the sway. Then, too, in the bantams the expense of shipment, an item to be taken into consideration in showing stock, is com- paratively a small item. A small amount of room houses the little friends, for they are friends indeed. Under kind treatment they soon become a member of the family. They tame very easily. When it comes to wisdom, a thing the hen does not lay claim to, the midgets discount their large relatives by far. : Another thing, although this is not said in derogation of other fanciers, the bantam fanciers are a high-grade lot of men to associate with. They are fanciers to the core and a meeting at a show finds men with a common interest making valued friend- ships. The Different Varieties of Game Bantams. Game bantams are in every sense of the word a fanciers’ fowl and they are, as a whole, bred to a better state of perfection than any other variety. They are considered the most popular variety of bantams and the gilt-edge specimens command long figures. So keen is the rivalry and competition that ofttimes the best money can buy are imported from England. Game bantams are bred in a number of varieties, namely, black-breasted reds, brown reds, Birchens, golden duckwing, silver duckwing, pyle, black and white. The Black Breasted Reds seem to be the most popular as they breed very true to color and when properly mated a larger percentage of good birds is secured than in the 95 other varieties. It is claimed by some of the most reliable breeders that the best results are obtained from double mating. The duckwings are a very handsome variety and possibly come next to the B. B. Reds in popularity. The males are exception- ally handsome, the breast, thighs, tails, wing, butts and bars being black. The saddle, hackle and wing bow are silver or rich orange as to the name of the variety. Pyle Game Cock. Pyles also come in for their share of admiration. They should be a sound white in breast and tail and should be white in sec- tions where the B. B. Red is black; other sections should be colored same as the black and reds. The above description ap- plies to the male. The legs should be yellow instead of willow, as in the B. B. Reds. The Brown Reds and Birchens also have their share of ad- mirers and ofttimes as large classes are seen as in the other varieties. . Black and Whites are not so popular, hence the quality is not as good as in the other varieties. 96 A Little Talk About Cleanliness. By Rev. Carl E. Peterson. “Cleanliness is next to godliness.” A truism well known the world over, but sometimes we don’t take into consideration that there are several kinds of cleanliness, and some of these not associated with our bodily welfare. Cleanliness in dealing with our customers, for every dirty transaction done will not only hurt the person who was re- sponsible for it, but the breed he handles, the rest of the breed- ers, and reflects on the whole poultry fraternity. Cleanliness in the showing of our birds, for here as else- where, a great deal of dirty work is done. A bird is faked out of all recognition to what it was before the faker took it in hand. Birds are still borrowed for show purposes, and returned after the show, and we have heard of one person who is willing to rent them out for the same purpose. It is a detriment ‘to all honest competition and when found out it should not only be made notice of on the coop containing such faked or borrowed birds, but the exhibitor should be ex- cluded for at least one coming season from again exhibiting at the same show. Cleanliness in Breeding. It is dirty work to advertise a strain of birds as a strain of noted layers, or noted winners and then on the strength of this buy birds from all over the country and send them out to unsus- pecting customers under the name of the strain advertised. Such work cannot be hidden, however, nor kept secret; like murder, it will out, and it soon becomes common property among the rest of the breeders, who, we are glad to say in the great majority are not in the habit of doing business in this way. When a person simply sells thoroughbred stock at small prices, without any pretension as to quality, it is all right for him to get his stock wherever he can; he is a huckster, not a breeder; but when strong claims are made for the stock and then birds are bought wherever they can be gotten at a dollar or so a head and sent out at reckless prices, it spells ruin to the breed such a person represents and finally ruin to himself. 97 Cleanliness in Accepting Orders. It is dirty work to accept more orders than can be promptly filled; it is dirty work to sell eggs for hatching and promise de-’ livery for March or April and then pay no further attention to the order, and ship the eggs as late as June and July at first-class prices. Cleanliness in the Handling of Our Stock. And it is a surprise why more trouble does not come to the person who seems to think that of all unnecessary things clean- liness in the poultry yard is one of them. We have seen it in print lately where it was stated that the houses were cleaned twice a year, but that the birds were out of doors most of the time. I should not wonder a bit if they were, anything in the way of a chance to breathe would be healthier for a hen than this sort of an abode. We have always advocated cleanliness in houses and coops and we prefer to have them cleaned every morning, for we can see no reason why a hen should sleep over her own dung any more than a cow should stand in it for several days at a time. If the cow received the same treatment the average farmer’s hens get, there would be less milk from her than there are eggs from hens thus treated. Cleanliness is a habit, and this habit should be indtlged in to its full extent. “Get the habit” and keep the building scrupu- lously clean; wipe the cobwebs from the window panes and let the stn have free access; clean, clean again, and keep cleaning until things are as they ought to be, and then keep them clean. fr