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http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924000290324

Asparagus culture :the best methods emp!

ASPARAGUS CULTURE:

THE

BEST METHODS EMPLOYED

IN

ENGLAND AND FRANCE.

BY

JAMES BARNES,

AND

WILLIAM ROBINSON, F.L.S.

GHith Translation of Mr. Lebent’s Essay on Asparagus,
AND
PARTICULARS OF THE SEVEN YEARS’ COMPETITION INSTITUTED FOR
ITS IMPROVEMENT.

GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS, Limitep
NEW YORK: Q LAFAYETTE PLACE
LonpdDOoN AND MANCHESTER

“y

c

Printed in New York, U.S. A.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

——-0050200-——

Tuz Aspuragus (Asparagus officinalis) belongs to the Lily
family, and is a mienber of a large fenus of plants, mostly
natives of Africa, distinguished by fine small leaves, which
make some of the kinds very graceful and elegant. The
common kind is a native of sandy shores all round the basin
of the Mediterranean, and grows along those of western
Europe, till i reaches the western and south-western shores
of England. It also grows on sandy plains in South Hurope
and North Africa. The flowers, which are small, are

greenish-white, borne in twos or threes, and are succeeded
by small, round, red berries, and the plant has a very elegant

and feathery habit.
SN

SOIL, MANURE, ETO.

Soils, subsoils, and situations differ, and so must practice
also. The soil all round our sea-coast, if rich, is eminently
suitable for Asparagus; and once properly planted, it might
go on for half a century without any more assistance than
it gets from the flooding of each spring tide. Change the
scene; place the beds in Sherwood Forest, with 10 to 20
feet of drift sand underneath them, and, without the liberal
use of the manure cart, in seven years you would not have
a piece of Asparagus as thick as apipe-stem. For good
and lasting beds of Asparagus, considerable depth of soil
is requisite. The best soil is a rich friable loam ; but.good
crops may be obtainettfrom any good sa i ow. loam.
Should the texture of the soil be too close, it should be
sufficiently lightened and made Pace by the application of
large quantities of manure; sand or sandy mud is, however,
more beneficial than manure in its opening qualities for heavy
soils. The situation for this vegetable should be open to the
gun, yet sheltered trom strong winds. As Asparagus is one
of the most permanent and important of all garden crops, and
well-made beds continue in a good bearing condition for twenty

4 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

years or more, it is advisable to decide, before forming the plant-
ation, whether or not any alterations are likely to be made that
would in any way disturb the beds. The ground should be
trenched to the depth of 3 feet, at the same time turning in a
heavy dressing of manure amid seaweed (should the latter be
easily obtained, otherwise it would not be advisable to go to
the expense of procuring it, as very good Asparagus can be
grown without it); and should the ground be deficient in
depth or quality, some good sweet loam from an old pasture
may most advantageously be employed. These ought to be
thoroughly incorporated with the soil at the time of trenching,
and so worked that they may have an enriching and ameliorat-
ing influence on every particle of soilin the beds. This trench-

ing sh ed in the beginning of winter, and Iaid
up in the common way of ridging, thus to remain till spring,
when, towards the end of March or first week of April, according
to the state of the weather and condition of the ground, the
ridges may be levelled, choosing for the operation a fine dry
day. Fork and tumble over with a strong fork or pickaxe
the ridges at all times when frozen hard, in order
to pulverize, sweeten, and incorporate all well together
The principle of success with this vegetable lies within a small
compass. All seem to acknowledge that, in order to obtain a
good crop, there must be a good depth of rich soil. About
forty years ago a good piece of ground was chosen to make a
permanent plantation of Asparagus. It was trenched 38 feet
deep in trenches 3 feet wide, and cast up into rough ridges,
after a crop of summer Peas. All decaying vegetation in the
rubbish-yards and corners was at the same time well salted and
turned up. Early in autumn, also, were added some old Mush-
room, Melon, and Cucumber-bed material, a lot of manure from
piggeries, cow-houses, and stables, a quantity of road-grit and
sand, a quantity of ditch and drain parings, turfy loam and
sods, quite 3 feet thick, These were all turned over four times
and wellincorporated together, between Michaelmas and Lady
Day, as one would a dung-heap, the whole being left in large
ridges exposed to the frost. \By April this compost was in a
kindly state; it was, therefore, laid down and planted with
good, clean, one-year-old Asparagus eae which certainly
grew in a most extraordinary way, and the second year pro-
duced wonderful shoots as to size; and the same plantation
has continued to produce fine heads ever since. In order to
give a fair idea of the quality of “ grass” which this plantation
is still producing, it may be mentioned that one hundred heads

ASPARAGUS CULTURE,

cut from it now average from 121bs. to 14 lbs. weight, tha
heads being 7 inches in length. Even after forty years’ exist-
ence, this plantation is still improving, and it looks as if it
would be as good sixty years hence as it is now.

Wherever ordinary farm-yard manure is not very abundant
and labour plentiful,a good result may be obtained by col-
lecting together all decomposing vegetable matter—old
hotbeds, Mushroom beds, pig refuse, &c., with seaweed where
convenient; and, when the position for the beds is determined
upon, this should be spread upon the ground about a foot
thick, and turned over with 2 or 8 feet of the earth two or
three times in winter. This treatment will be attended with
very excellent results.

The application of salt as a top dressing is of great benefit
to Asparagus in inland districts, but is of little or no value
in the vicinity of salt-water. It should be applied in spring
and very early summer by scattering some common coarse
salt over the ground in showery weather. Old and well-
established plantations are particularly benefited by this
treatment; but in no case should it be applied to plants
recently removed, for all such, however carefully transplanted,
must have wounded roots, to which salt would prove very
injurious; nor should it be applied at any time when the
roots are in a dormant state. Besides its beneficial effects
upon the plant as a manure, it is very destructive to the wire-
worm and other insects so injurious to the roots of the
Asparagus. Salt may safely be applied at the rate of 2 lbs.
per square yard. It is, however, better to give this quantity
in ae doses. It should not be applied in dry or sunny
weather,

SEED SOWING,

Asparagus is propagated by seed, which may either be sown
when ripe in October, or in spring; but the latter time is cer-
tainly the best. It may éither be sown on the ground pre-
pe for the plantation, or in drills one foot apart in beds of
ight, rich, sandy soil, and transplanted to a permanent
position when one year old, which is by far the most desirable
method. To get strong clean plants at one year old, and to
save a year’s strength, sow thinly, and hoe out quickly after the
plants are up, with a sharp one-hand 3-inch hoe, or otherwise
thin the plants to 3 or 4 inches apart, taking care to select all
the strongest plants to stand; thus, very strong clean plants
may be produced in one year. By keeping the seed beds,

6 ASPARAGUS CULTURES.

carefully hoed and free from weeds, the plants will be in fine
condition for planting out the following spring; whereas,
should they be neglected, it will take two years before they are
as large as well-attended one-year-old plants. It is in conse-
quence of this very common neglect that many cultivators
labour under the impression that the plants must be two or
three years old before planting; which is undoubtedly a
mistake, for all good growers invariably plant one-year-old
plants, and count on reaping a crop the third spring from the
time of sowing. One pound of seed will produce about 3,000
plants, and to plant an acre of Asparagus requires from 15,000
to 20,000 plants. Some of the finest shoots which push in the
early part of the season from certain crowns should be allowed
to run toseed. These should have the full benefit of exposure
to light and air; and, as they advance in growth, they musi
be firmly staked, to prevent breakage by wind. When fully
ripe, the largest and finest berries, of the deepest red colour,
should be selected. They should then be carefully and
gradually dricd; or they may, after lying about ten days, be
squeezed between the hands, and the pulp washed away; but
by the former method they keep the longest.

PLANTING.

This should not be done till after the buds begin to push, as
this plant, from its peculiar succulent roots, is less susceptible
af injury from late planting than most other vegetables; yet
it should not be delayed too long after the ground has become
fit for its reception, in the end of April, as tue sooner it is
then planted the better will be the result. Plant in rows 2 feet
apart, 16_inches being left between the plants in the row.

nting in rows in preferenéé to beds 1s recommended, for
by so doing the plants are allowed room enough to develope
their roots without interlacing each other, and consequently
causing an impoverishment of the soil. After being planted
two years, every alternate row is best taken up for forcing,
thus leaving the permanent rows 4 feet apart. ‘The direction
ef the rows for the main crops is immaterial, but for the
earliest ones it would be advisable to run them east and west,
so as to be more immediately under the direct action of the
sun’s rays wher they are most powerfu’. As soon as the
Asparagus has commenced to shoot an inch or two, level the
ground down methodically, mark ont’ the row. 2 feet apart,
placing a stake at each end, where the rows are to be planted ;

x

ASPARAGUS OULTUBR. 7

stretch ahd place the line tight from end to end, dtuw a deep
drill with the hoe on each side of the line, thus leaving a little
ridge under the line, over which the planter should regulate
the roots of the plants on each side, putting in the earth to
cover them quickly as he proceeds. The hoe should be regu-
larly used during the remaining summer and autumn months,
care being taken to remove by the hand all weeds that come up
about the crowns. When the stalks are completely withered
in autumn, they should be cut down. Should the produce in
spring be required in a green state, which is decidedly the best,
an annual dressing of good manure slightly forked in should
be given every autumn after the haulm has been cut, and thus
-left_ during the winter. In spring, before the buds begin to
ush, the ground should be again slightly forked over three or
our times in dry weather, in order to lighten, pulverise,
sweeten, and lay it down in an open healthy state, and not in too
fine a condition, to get run together again immediately after
the first heavy rains, but open, loose, and rather rough, in
order to admit the sun’s rays, atmospheric influence, and the
rain kindly; such treatment not only forwards its progress,
but also allows it to grow freely, clean, and straight without
obstruction,

AGE OF PLANTS FOR TRANSPLANTING.

For planting, cleanly-grown and sound two-year-old plants
are very generally preferred, although strong one-year-old
plants are equally good. The balance of evidence is, indeed, in
favour of well-grown one-year-old plants, The following
curious experiment by a trustworthy French cultivator deserves
consideration.

“T planted (No. 1) twelve roots of ayear old; (No. 2), twelve
of two years old; and (No. 3) twelve of three years old. The
results were as follows :—

“ First Year.—Of No. lall had made growth before May 4th,
and the vegetation was fine; No. 2, ten plants started before
May 4th, one on the 10th, and the other failed. The shoots
were a little stronger than those of No.1. No. 3, eight plants
started before May 4th, one on May 12th, and the other three
failed; and, although at first the shoots looked well, they
afterwards declined, and on September 15th they were feebler
than those of No. 2. ;

“ Second Year.—No. 1, fine vegetation; shoots strong and
regular on the 15th of September. No. 2, good growth;
shoots irregular, and a little feebler than those of No. 1.

8 ASPARAGUS CULTURE,

No. 8 growth mediocre; shoots very irregular, some rocts
having eight or ten, but all feeble; another plant died after
having produced two stems.

“Third Year.—No. 1, growth magnificent: stems measuring
on the 10th of May from 2 inches to 33 inches in circumference.
No. 2, growth passable, but irregular; some tufts small and
weak; the finest had shoots on the 10th of May, not more than
2% inches in circumference. No. 3, growth very middling and
irregular; some tufts gave off shoots no bigger than quills,
and the best reached little beyond 1} inch in circumference.

“Fourth Year—No. 1, growth remarkable; the shoots
appeared from the 3rd to the 10th of April, some as much as
4 inches in circumference; they afforded fifty shoots, which
formed a bunch weighing more than 63 lbs. No.2, growth
passable, but a little later than that of No. 1, and with plenty
of small shoots; fifty made a half bunch, weighing little more
than the half of that cut from Nol. No. 3, vegetation poor,
one plant not starting till the 22nd of April; fifty shoots
formed only half a bunch, and did not weigh more than 23 lbs.

“To resume, it will have been seen that the plantation formed
with plants a year old gave at its fourth starting, or at
the end of three years of plantation, a bunch of Asparagus
twice as large as that of either of the others. In other terms,
the plantation made with plants a year old produced double
that of the one where two-year-old plants were used, and
nearly treble that made with plants of three years old.”

CUTTING, |

Asparagus should not be cut till the second year after
planting, a: nly sparingly. By allowing the plants to
get well and firmly established before making a very free use of

the knife,and with judicious after-treatment, they will produce
excellent crops for many years; and at no time cut too severely,
but bear in mind that the more copious and healthy the foliage
during the summer, the stronger will be the produce next
spring. As the strength of the roots depends on the quantity
of foliage, there must be shoots enough left to maintain them
healthy and vigorous, and to replace and store up for the
following season sufficient matter for the healthy action of the
plants. It is not advisable, however, to cut away the strong
shoots and leave the smaller ones; quite the reverse. Allow
some of the finest shoots to grow after the first fortnight or
three weeks’ cutting is over, removing any small spray that may

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 9

appear; for a few strong shoots to each plant, properly exposed
to light and air, will be more valuable than any quantity of
small ones. In cutting, a little of the soil is removed from the
necks of the shoots with the Asparagus knife, which is then
pushed down, carefully avoiding injuring the crown or other
shoots that may be pushing up. When the knife is at the base
of theshoot, give ita slight twist towards, atthe same time press-
ing it close to, the shoot; then draw it gently upwards, by which
process the shootis separated from theplant, The knife generally
used in this Operation has a rough or saw-like edge, set to cut
only one way, and that by pushing down. It should always be
kept sharp at the three or four first teeth from the point. For
those that are fond of natural unbleached “ grass,” any kind of
knife will do, and in kindly growing weather the heads may
even be broken off without a knife. Asparagus for market is
generally blanched by the earthing-up system, which is done
by covering the crowns with a few inches of light soil, gener-
ally taken from the space between the rows, by which process
weo’ sain the white bleached or blanched shoots daily seen
during the season in the London market. When this method
is adopted, the shoots must be cut below the surface just as it-
appears above ground. This mode, however, is not to be com-
mended, the right way being, not to practise the earthing-up
system, but to wait till the shoots are 6 inches above ground,
when they may be cut over almost level with the surface. By
so doing we obtain the Asparagus in its green and natural
condition and of exquisite flavour, to which the blanched can
bear no sort of comparison. The cutting-season should cease
about the middle of June, and in no case should it be continued
after the end of that month. When green Peas can be had,
Asparagus is less required; therefore it is desirable to discon-
tinue cutting after the 10th or 15th of June

FORCING ASPARAGUS.

There are several ways of forcing Asparagus, all depending
on the same principles, yet each adapted to a different kind of
garden. Some are expensive, others not at all so, where
stable manure is plentiful and garden labour not a scarce
commodity. Thirty years ago in the London market gar-
dens a large forcing grower would purchase an acre or
more from the grower, aud send for it as his beds were
made. At that time heating hothouses er pits of any kind
by means of hot water was of course unknown. They employed

10 ASPARAGUS CULTURS.

@ great number of common garden frames, A trench a foot
or so wider than the frame and 15 inches deep was then cast
out, and in this was placed about 2 feet of London stable
manure, and on this again a few inches of the rich friable
earth of the old market garden which had been cast out of the
trench, to secure the heat from evaporating. Then, soon after
the frames were placed in a straight line on the hotbed, the
plants were very carefully placed on the soil in the frame,
covering them immediately with 3 or 4 inches more soil, or
more if the Asparagus was required blanched throughout.
If wanted quite blanched, of course air and light were not
admitted. Every twenty-four days or so a fresh set of beds
was made to keep up the supply.

Forcing may be commenced in November and continued till
Asparagus is fit to gatherinthe openair. One ofthe best ways
isto make a slight hotbed with stable manure, leaves, tan, d&c.
(these last materials, if easily obtained, will do well to mix with
the manure), in a Melon pit, or under a common Cucumber
frame. Twoanda half feet high will be quite sufficient, and on
the surface of the bed should be placed a few inches of light
soil, leaf-mould, or sifted potting refuse, on which to place the
plants, because such material does not act so effectually in
repressing the heat as ordinary garden soil; and when the
roots are taken up as completely and carefully as possible and

laced thickly on this, they should be covered with a few more
inches of the same material. If the Asparagus be required of
its natural colour—and that is unquestionably the best way to
enjoy it—give the frame full light and air when fine. Water occa-
sionally with tepid water. After one good watering in the early
stage, a little will afterwards sufiice, for the winter crops at all
events, as the slow evaporation of the period and the natural
moisture of the bed will preserve the soil in a nice moist state.
The heat of the bed must be preserved when it gets low by a
lining, in the usual old-fashioned way, and by covering closely
with mats or litter at night in cold weather—that is, if it be a
common frame, but if in a brick pit this will not be necessary.
The chief point is to be Boalt at first, to let it get a slow start,
and not be oyer excited at any time, or it will start away and
prodacs nothing but very weakly, spindling shoots; whereas,

y bringing it on gradually and regularly, a really respectable
cutting may be obtained.

It is also frequently forced by being placed on the floor, or
on a bench or pit of some kind, in an early vinery or other
forcing house; and, whenever there is space to spare, and the

ASPARAGUS CULTURS. aa

heat is brisk and genial enough, this plan is good. Another very
important way is by bringing the heat to the roots, and cer-
tainly by this plan a more permanent and stable kind of
* grasa” is obtained, because plant or root is not in the least
disturbed. But it is an expensive way, though simple. The
beds are in the first place very well made of rich deep soil,
and the alleys of these beds are dug out to a depth of
3 feet or so, and then bricked ; or, in other words, the Aspa-
ragus beds are made between low brick walls, perforated with
“ pigeon holes,” toadmit of the heat entering freely ; and
whenever forcing commences, the bricked trench on each side
of abed is filled with fermenting manure, covered over by a
rough shutter, and the beds themselves with small wooden
frames made to fit ; these are, of course, only placed on during
forcing, the beds being exposed in the summer season. The
beds should not be more than 4 or 5 feet wide, to admit of
the ready percolation of heat. This method is, however, only
suited for places where a good deal of expense is devoted to
the garden ; and the modification or improvement of it, which
consists in having hot-water pipes passing between each bed
and the chamber covered with a slab of stone, is a much more
expensive one. No matter what system is employed, a steady
heat of from 60° to 65° will be found most suitable.

Another way of heating the beds is by means of hot-water
pipes. This is a modification or improvement of the last mode,
and is the same as is practised in the Royal Gardens at

S
s 4
A 8 A

SS

od
ii ft : - ft
hot Bed, & fect wide, 8 Bed, 5 feet wide. hot”
dung. dung.

Section of two Beds with Alley between them, and half of two
corresponding Alleys.

Frogmore. It is certainly a very oxpensive method; yet it
must be admitted it is the most satisfactory in the end. At

:Frogmore the beds are 75 feet long and 7 feet wide, their

sides being built with brick, “ pigeon-hole” style. The spaces
between the beds are 4 feet deep, the lower 2 feet being filled

12 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

with rich soil; and in the upper 2 feet are a flow and return
hot-water pipe connected with a boiler that heats six such
ranges. On the top of the beds are special frames. In severe
weather, the sashes must be covered with mats or litter.

Mr. Gilbert’s mode of forcing Asparagus is clearly illus-
trated by the annexed diagram, and it is that adopted to a
great extent in the mark.t gardens. The beds are 5 feet wide,
with 8-feet alleys between them. The alleys are dug out to
the depth of 2 feet, the soil being spread over the surface of
the beds, on which frames, covered with sashes, boards, or
shutters, are placed. The space between the beds, being 43
feet deep and 3 feet wide, is filled with fermenting material,
such as stable dung and leaves, as are also the outside half
alleys. Before filling these spaces with litter, we make holes
into the sides of the beds large enough to admit a one-inch
bore drain-pipe. These holes we find beneficial in admitting
heat to the interior of the bed. The side trenches are filled
with hot dung to the height of the frames, the beds in which,
marked a A, are also covered with the same material until the
heads make their appearance, when it is removed. If white
Asparagus is wanted, the frames are kept dark by being
covered with shutters; but, if green is preferred, glazed lights
should be put on. After the fermenting material is removed
from the beds, the frames are kept close for a few days, after
which a little air is given on favourable occasions, & practice
which improves both flavour and quality. It is necessary
to maintain a temperature of 60° or 65°, but at no time should
it exceed 70°. When this heat cannot be kept up, fresh linings
must be added.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE IN FRANCE

Asparacus is grown much more extensively and to a much
larger size in France than it isin England. The country is
almost covered with it in some piaces near Paris; small and
large farmers grow it abundantly, cottagers grow it—every-
body grows it, and everybody eats it. The system of culture
is so essentially different from ours, and so successful, that
it is desirable to make it fully known. Near Paris it is chiefly
grown in the valley of Montmorency and at Argenteuil, and
it is cultivated extensively for market in many other places.
About Argenteuil 3,000 persons are employed in the culture
of Asparagus. It is grown to a large extent among the
Vines. The Vine, under field culture, is simply cut down to
near the old stool every year, and allowed to make a few

ASPARAGUS CULTURE, 13

growths, which are tied erect to a stake; they do not overtop
the Asparagus in any way, but on the other hand the strong
plants of that show well above the Vines. It is not planted in
distinct close lines among the Vines, but widely and irregu-
larly, They simply put one plant in each open spot, and
give it every chance of forming a capital specimen, and this
it generally does. When the stems get large and a little top-
heavy in early summer, a string is put round all, so as to hold
them slightly together (the careful cultivator uses a stake),
and the mutual support thus given prevents the plant from
being hurt by wind in its prime. We all know how apt it is to
be twisted off at the collar by strong winds, especially in wet
weather, when the drops on every tiny leaf make the foliage
heavy. The growing of Asparagus among the Vines is a very
usual mode, and a vast space is thus covered with it about
here. But it is grown in other and more special ways, not one
of these being like our way of growing it, which is decidedly
much inferior to the French method.

Perhaps the simplest method, and the most worthy of
adoption, is to grow it in shallow trenches. I have seen
extensive plantings that looked much as a Celery ground does

Sommon French mode of forming an Asparagus plantation,

soon after being planted, the young Asparagus plants being
in a shallow trench, and a little ridge of soil .being thrown up
between the lines of Asparagus. These trenches are generally
about 4 feet apart. Here, for instance, is a young plantation
planted in March. In England, the Asparagus would be left
to the free action of the breeze, but the French cultivators
never leave a young plant of Asparagus to the wind’s mercy
while they can procure a bit of a stake about a yard long.
But when staking these young plants they do not insert the
support close at the bottom, as we are too apt to do in other
instances, but at a little distance off, so as to avoid the
possibility of injuring a fibre; each stake leans over its plant
at an angle of 45°, and when the plant is big enough to
touch it or be caught by the wind, they tie it to the stake.
The ground in which this system is pursued being entirely
devoted to Asparagus, the stools are placed very much closer

14 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

together than they are when grown among the Vines, say at
a distance of about a yard apart. The little trenches are about
a foot wide and 8 inches below the level of the ground—
looking deeper, however, from the soil being piled up.

The young plants are placed in these trenches very care-
fully. A little mound is made with the hand in each spot
where a plant is to be placed, so as to elevate the crown a
little and permit of the spreading out of the roots in a per-
fectly safe manner. In fact they seem to be about as parti-
cular as regards depositing the young plants in the first
instance, as a good Diape-grower is about his young Vines.
They plant in March and April—using any kind of manure
that can be had, but chiefly here, so far as I could see, the
refuse of the town—the ashes, old vegetables, rags, and other
matters, that the people throw before their doors, and which

Ainthes 4
7 <

This figure shows the mode of planting and the depth of the successive annus.
earthings given to the Asparagus, as grown in France. After four or five
years’ growth the ridges disappear, and the highest points of the ground are
those over the crowns of the roots.

the dust-carts take away in the morning. They are very par-
ticular to destroy weeds, and they also take good care to
destroy all sorts of insect enemies in the mornings, espe-
cially during the early summer. Between the lines of Aspa-
ragus they plant small growing crops on the little ridges
during the first years of the plantation, but are careful not to
put the large vegetables there, which would shade and other-
wise injure the plants. When they plant, they spread a hand-
ful or so of thoroughly-rotten manure over each root, and they
repeat this every year, removing the soil very carefully in the
autumn down to the roots, putting on them a couple of hand-
fuls of rotten manure, and spreading the earth over again, so
that the rain is continually washing nutriment to the roots.
When doing this, they notice the state of the young roots, and
where a plant has perished, or has done little good, they place
® aluck, and replace the plant the following March. Early every

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 15

spring they pile up a little heap of fine eartb over each crown,
When the plantation arrives at its third year, they increase the
size of the little mound, or, in other words, a heap of finely
ere earth is placed over the stool, from which some,

ut not much, Asparagus is cut the same year, taking care to
leave the weak plants and those which have replaced others, to
themselves for another year.

They cut the best of it when it is about an inch and a half
out of the ground. Let us hear the French side as regards
blanched Asparagus :—* In certain localities they do not yet
value the distinction between blanched and green Asparagus,
and occasionally prefer the last. That is an error very preju-
dicial to the cousumer’s interests. In the green Asparagus
there is only the point edible; in the white it is often entirely
so, and, moreover, it is infinitely more tender and delicate.
All Asparagus cut when it is green is not fit to be eaten in
the ordinary way, but may be used cut up small as an accom-
paniment to other dishes. To serve up green Asparagus is to
dishonour the table! In the markets of Paris the green
Asparagus is worth one franc a bunch, when the blanched is
worth three francs ; they do not eat it (the green Asparagus)
—it serves for the manufacture of syrup of Asparagus.—
V. F. Leboeuf.”

When the plantation reaches its fourth year, the little mound
of blanching earth is increased to 15 inches in height, for then
they expect to cut something worth while, and these mounds
are made in the early part of March; and even after this, as
they grow stronger the little mounds are increased, and they
always keep a look-out for the feeble plants, with a view to
replace them. To have Asparagus as it ought to be, they say
you must cut every day, or every two days, according to
temperature, so that it may be obtained at the right moment;
indeed if they do not do this, the shoots become too high and
too green. They place great importance on obtaining strong
and healthy plants; and in the establishments which I visited
they have three kinds, l’Ordinaire, La Hollande tardive
improved, and La Hative d’Argenteuil. The first is described
as very fine, the second very strong, and the last is the earliest,
most productive, and best. Of course there are various
modifications of the plan just described, and in several
instances I saw two rows placed in a rather wide trench in an
alternate manner. As to the size and quality of the Asparagus

roduced by this method there can be but one opinion.

Concisely: the French mode of cultivating this delicious

2

18 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

vegetable differs from our own diametrically in giving each
plant abundant room to develope into a large healthy speci-
men, in paying thoughtful attention to the plants at all times,
and in planting in a hollow instead of a raised bed, so that as
the roots grow up they may have annual dressings of enriching
manure. They do not, as we do, go to great expense in
forming a mass of the richest soil far beneath the roots, but
rather give it at the surface, which is consistent with the
nature of the roots.

The French mode of forcing Asparagus chiefly consists in
digging deep trenches between beds plated for the purpose,
covering the beds with the soil and with frames, filling in the
trenches between the beds with stable manure, and protecting
the frames with straw mats and litter to keep in the heat.
In the beginning of November the pathways between the
beds of Asparagus are dug up about 2 feet deep, and as much
wide. Divide the soil coming from the pathway very care-

Preparation for forcing Asparagus. The trenches are dug out and filled with
stable manure, the earth being heaped onthe beds. These are covered with
rough frames, up to the edge of which the heating material is piled.

fully, and put about 8 inches thick of it on the surface of the
bed. Fill up the trench with good new horse-dung, and
place frames on the bed.. The manure should rise as high as
the top of the frames, and the lights be entirely covered with
mats and litter, to prevent the heat accumulated in the frame
-from escaping. About a fortnight or three weeks after, the
Asparagus begins to show itself on the surface of the bed.
Many market gardeners cover the whole of the bed inside of
the frame to a thickness of 3 or 4 inches with dung, to frce
the vegetation more quickly, but in this case the manure must
be rem ‘ved when the Asparagus begins to shoot. When the
shoots are about 3 inches out of the ground they may be cut.
The mats must be taken off in the daytime, but the heat must
be well kept up or the roots and buds will fail to push. The

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. VV

beds are forced every second year only. The gathering of the
Asparagus may continue for about two months, but no longer,
or the plantation would be injured. When the gathering of
the Asparagus is over, the frames and dung linings are taken
away, and the soil which has been dug up from the alleys is
ges back-again. The preceding applies to the forcing of the

etter qualities of Asparagus chiefly. A speciality is made of
forcing the smaller sized Asparagus. It is in the garden of
M. Caucannier, Place de |’Hglise, at Clichy, and a number of
iron houses are there devoted to the culture. Indeed, if 7
mistake not, those in the Jardin Fleuriste are copied frow
them. There are frames within each house, just as in mauy
propagating houses in England, and beneath them the °
Asparagus is forced for the markets, and in large quantities.
The houses are heated by hot water, and the culture in other
respects resembles that which is practised in forcing gardens
in England—that is, when the plants are taken up to be
forced indoors or in pits. The disturbance weakens the roots
® good deal, and by this method the large table Asparagus is
never forced. M.Caucannier and other growers produce it
Sey in a small] state for soups, &c., but it is impossible to
obtain in this way the large table.Asparagus.

MR, NIVEN’S METHOD OF CULTURE.

{Mr, Niven for a long time cultivated Asparagus with such
saccess at Drumcondra, near Dublin, that we have thought
it; well to give his method of culture. ]

Any time during the winter or spring choose any portion of the
surface of your garden, with an open south exposure; it matters
not much what the soil may be on which the plantation is to be
placed—provided the surface-water, in winter, does not stag-
nate on, or about it—but a soil of sandy quality is always tc
be preferred, where it can be obtained; but where not to be
had, it is easy to add a few loads of sand in the surface pre-
paration. Having fixed upon the space to be occupied, a layer
of half-rotted leaves, or rotten hot-bed dung, may be spread
over the whole, about 3 inches thick, to which might be added,
where it can be obtained, a stratum of sea-weed, This,
during the winter, should be slightly dug into the ground
leaving the surface in narrow ridges, to receive the action of
the weather. Or, it may be done immediately before planting
in spring;,the former time of preparation is, however,
preferable. This process of surface management may be

18 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

described under the following heads, viz.: Planting, samme!
treatment, winter treatment.

PLANTING.

About the end of March or beginning of April (or even in
May, when the young heads are 6 or 8 inches high), choose a
dry day, and have the ridged-up surface neatly levelled down,
after which, slightly dig the ground over again, which will
thoroughly mix the surface with the manure and sand first
applied; then tread over the whole, regularly, with the feet,
and proceed to mark off, with the measuring rod, the places
for the intended lines, at 4 feet apart; studying to ran them
as nearly north and south as possible, marking the place of
each line with the corner of a draw-hoe, as for Peas. This
being done all over the plot, at the distances described, have
a quantity of compost ready, such as one-third rotten leaves,
or rotted dung, one-third fresh soil (a hazel-coloured sandy
loam from the corner of any grass-field is best), and one-third
river or sea-sand, If this has been for some time previously
prepared, so much the better. Along each drill or line laya
small ridge of the said materials, so that, when ready for plant-
ing, a section of the surface of the plot will appear thus:—

- x &@ < 2 <x a

Choose, if possible, good strong two-year-old plants, a
uantity of which may always be kept in a reserve seed-bed
fe successional plantations in any odd corner of the garden.
As it is of essential importance that the roots should be as
little exposed as possible during planting to a drying atmo-
sphere, it may be best to proceed thus :—carefully lift the plants,
and cover them over in the barrow or basket witha little sand:
proceed to set them on the little ridge or saddle prepared for
them, as a man sits upon horseback, at about 6 inches apart
from each other, having a person to follow with a barrowful of
sand, which, with the spade, he lays over the roots and crowns,
about 1 inch thick, observing to tread successively both sides
of each line as he proceeds, with one foot, to firm the sand to
the plants, so as to secure them from the action of the air

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 19

antil the process of plauting is concluded, when a second and.
final covering of about + inches of the compost is to be put
over the ridges or lines, which is to be firmly trod to the line of

lants as before. A small portion of the original surface

etween may then be thrown up with the spade, right and left,
pressing neatly between every two lines as you proceed, and
the process of planting, which is exceedingly simple, is finished.
A plantation so made, containing from 140 toabout 200 square
yards, and requiring from 700 to 1,000 plants, or so, would be
sufficient to supply Asparagus during the season for any
ordinary family—the expense of which, apart from the plants,
(which might be about 2s. 6d. per hundred) would be a mere
trifle, particularly where sand and leaves or rotten dung can
easily be had. I may remark that (much prefer the single line
method of culture to beds, chiefly on account of the greater
facility in the subsequent management, and because the plants
derive more equal nutriment from the artificial surface that is
gradually forming. The produce of two rows so treated I
have found fully equal in quantity to any one bed with three
lines, besides being much superior in quality.

SUMMER TREATMENT.

This is an important matter in Asparagus culture. The
plantation being finished, as has. just been described, @
good watering or two, should the weather be very dry,
would towards May, be advisable. In May, when the short
pene begins, a portion of it is to be brought to the

paragus lines, and shaken in between, quite to the necks of
the plants—say, so as to fill up the hollow spaces between
nearly level, when a section of the plantation would, at this
time, appear thus :—The object of this application, which must

short grass. shortgrass. short grass.

ridge. ridge. ridge. ridge.

be renewed about once every month during the summer, will
be at once evident, namely—the retention of moisture, and the
production of vegetable food; and the slight fermentation that
accompanies the decomposition greatly accelerates the growth

20 ASPARAGUS CULTURE,

of the plant : besides, ultimately a bed of the purest vegetable
matter is formed, into which, on both sides, the succulent roots
of the Asparagus plants run freely. In this way, from the
proximity of the roots to che surface, the genial influences of
solar heat, and due atmospheric action, are enjoyed by the
plant, without the least danger of its ever suffering from
drought, in consequence of the non-evaporating nature of the
vegetable mulching or covering alluded to, which receives and
retains, as a sponge, the greater portion of the moisture that
falls upon it, whereas, in the common Asparagus bed, the
surface during the dry part of the year is almost completely
exposed to the action of the sun and air, and, during any
continuance of dry weather, may be seen to crack or rend in
every direction, to the destruction of the roots in very many
instances. After the shoots have begun to come up, we imme-
diately begin to look regularly and carefully after the thinuing.
When the plants have pushed two or more heads each, the
weakest are regularly cut away, as the stronger heads appear;
so that by the end of the first season, not more than two, or at
most three shoots, are left to grow to maturity on each plant.
Proper attention to the thinning of Asparagus, in the first
instance, immediately after planting, during the first and second
years and afterwards, alsoin cutting for use, is of essentialimpor-
tance towards the future welfare of the plant. In consequence
of proper attention not being paid to the subject of cutting,
arising either from carelessness of the consequences, or from
over-anxiety on the part of the gardener to send to table a good
dish, much evil ensues to the plantation; for, frequently,
instead of leaving a sufficient supply of strong shoots regularly
over the bed, they are all cut away, and the weakest left, tne
inevitable result of which is a supply of comparatively small
buds for the crop of the year following.

WINTER TREATMENT,

In November, or, as soon as the tops of the Asparacus
become yellow, the whole should be cut over, and the svil
along the crown of the ridge or line cleared away a little with
the hand, when about 4 inches of sea or river sand should be
laid along over the line of plants—this chiefly for the purposo
of providing against the depredations of slugs in spring, and
facilitating the clean free progress of the heads the next season.
In the spaces between the lines, a few barrow-loads of rotten
dung, leaves, or sea-weed may be laid, and the whole should

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 21

be neatly levelled with a three-pronged fork, stirring up the
surface between the lines very slightly, as the levelling of the
fresh material proceeds. No further care will be required till
Fpring, when, just as the first heads begin to appear, the
whole may be slightly s.irred on the surface, and over the
lines a little of the sand raked off. The process of mulching
with short grass, or, instead of it, other vegetable or
decomposing animal matter, is to be followed up, as already
described, from year to year. The second year some of the
thinnings may be fit for use, but by no means shon'd any of the
strong heads be cut for that purpose, except where there are
too many to one plant, as the patience and forbearance now
exercised will be amply repaid by the produce next year, when
the crop may be regularly cut for use. In gathering
Asparagus, a habit prevails of cutting the heads a few inches
below the surface; but for what useful purpose I am at a loss
to conceive ; inasmuch as the white or blanched part of the
grass is usually so hard and stringy as to be scarcely fit for
use; whereas, by allowing the heads to grow the proper length
above the surface, say about eight inches or so, they will not
only still be compact, but the whole of the “Grass” will be
tender and eatable.

ASPARAGUS PESTS.

Foremost amongst the causes which tend to diminish the
yield of Asparagus deserve mention the luxuriant growth of
fungus on the part of the plant above-ground, the attacks of
wireworms on its roots, and the depredations of the Asparagus
beetle (Crioceris Asparagi), which abounds more in some
seasons than in others, and is sometimes very destructive in
one locality and almost unknown in others. The larve feed
upon the leaves, perforate the buds, and even gnaw the rind of
the stems. When the beetle first appears it may be controlled,
but if to become established the task is hopeless. Whenever
the eggs or the larvae appear, cut and burn the plants as long
as any traces of the insect are visible. The larva. beetles, and
eggs are generally found from the middle of June to September;
its larva state continues only for about ten days, after which it
descends into the earth to undergo its changes; and in three
weeks the perfect beetle is formed, when it asceuis the plants
to deposit its eggs. The beetle, after eating into tLe vegetable,
lays its eggs in the tender juicy portion of tho stall: and leaves,
and when the larva (the produce of the eggs) issue forth, they
totally destroy those parts of the plant with which they come

23 ASPARAGUS CULTUBE.

in contact. The most efficient plan of dealing with this insect-
plague is to collect and “stamp out” the young brood, or better
s.i1, the full-grown beetles, before they have laid their eggs.
Ihe work of collection must, however, be carefully proceeded
with, for with the slightest movement the beetles will fall
down and conceal themselves in the earth. After a time they
reappear, and, if permitted, will crawl again on to the plant,
lay their eggs, and recommence feeding. In his war of exter-
mination with the'beetles, the Asparagus-grower has no better
friends and allies than the birds. If he is wise, he does all in
his power to attract and protect them.

Respecting the fungus, the first symptoms are observable in
August. Small dark brown spots, which in a few days attain
the length of nearly quarter of an inch, appear on the
stalks, and gradually assume a much darker shade. These
‘spots are surrounded by the ruptured epidermis of the stalk,
and are somewhat inflated. On close examination, vertical
layers of small powdery spots are remarked under the epidermis;
and it is their great accumulation here and there which causes
the latter to burst. The injury done to the parts of the
vegetable that are above the ground has an unfavourable effect
on the roots, checking their development, and in the ensuing
spring the yield of Asparagus will be found materially
diminished by the premature death of many of the plants.
As to the precise nature and proper designation of the disease,
whether rust or another disease greatly resembling it, whether
originating in (or greatly increased by) over manuring with
nitrogenous fertilisers, and whesher—as some maintain—
never met with under the shade of trees, are questions
on which uncertainty prevails. Should it be ascertained
oo further investigation that the disease is not confined
to Asparagus—and Dr. Birnbaum has a noticed parasitic
fungus almost identical in appearance on Couch Grass
—the difficulty of combating the evil and preventing it
from spreading will be proportionally increased. If it turns
out to be rust, the spores alluded to are possibly the
winter spores, which first develop themselves in spring on
another plant, and are afterwards found on Asparagus in the
form of mycelium orspawn. On one point, viz., the dangerous
character of the disease, there is unfortunately no room for
doubt, and the grower has every reason to be careful that it
shall not gain ground, or be imported into districts hitherto
free from it. Above all things he must endeavour to prevent
the discharge of the spores—the organs of reproduction—

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 23

and, as soon as any signs of disease show themselves, his best
course is to remove the parts attacked and burn them.

Wireworms are sometimes very destructive to the roots of
Asparagus, but by means of dressings of salt, pieces of Carrots
or Potatoes attached to a skewer, and buried a few inches in
the ground near the crowns, they may be attracted and
destroyed; these decoys should be examined once every two
days or so. Snails and slugs often attack the plants in mild
springs, just as they push througk the soil, but they may
readily be got rid of by dusting the ground with lime.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE

BY
M. GODEFROY-LEBQUF,

—oe40o—

Varieties of Asparagus.—Qriginally there was but one
form of edible Asparagus, the wild Asparagus (Asparagus

Asparagus and the Giant Asparagus. é former gave rise
to the Early Pink Asparagus grown in Holland, at Gin and
af Argenteuil, and the Late Pink Asparagus grown at the
same places. Culture and selection Have 80 great an influence
on vegetables that they modify not only their constitution, but
their mode of growth and their flavour. It is by dint of
constant observation, combined with great care and patience,
that the Asparagus growers at Argenteuil have succeeded in
improving this vegetable by creating, as it were, two varie-
ties, the Early and the Late, and that they have rendered
those varieties permanent, so that they may always be de-
pended on as being superior to their common parent both
in size and quality. Asparagus is grown throughout the
whole of France with almost equal care. How is it, then,
that there are only certain privileged localities which produce
it in such perfection in every way that even after twenty
years’ growth the same plants yield abundant crops? This

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 25

apparant anomaly simply arises from certain growers having
adopted an intelligent and rational method of cultivation. By
this means the Argenteuil Asparagus has reached such a state
of perfection that it is impossible to mistake it for the old-
fashioned varieties. Compared with them it gives crops of
triple weight and size, while the Early variety comes to per-
fection ten days earlier than any other known kind. The
appreciation bestowed on this variety everywhere is conse-
quently fully accounted for. .

Harty anp Late ARGENTEUIL AND Duton AsPARaaus.

Late Asparagus.—The Late Asparagus as grown at
Argentéuil is often flat in form ; the oe are prominent and

arranged in a spiral, and the point is short and stumpy. When
ference at a distance of 8? in. from the tip. Fig. [shows
one of these heads drawn from nature. ‘There were others

grown at the same time which were much lurger, but this
one was chosen on account of its representing the purest type

of this variety. The entire stem of the Late Asparagus
when full gro res_from 5 ft, 10 in. to 7 ft, 8 in. in

height. This variety is very vigorous, will thrive in almost
dny Kind of soil, and lasts for many years. The crown of
the root rises but slowly out of the ground ; the Late variety
therefore is better adapted for a shallow soil than the Early
variety. It produces less than its congener during the first
years of its growth; but, on the other hand, it lasts much
longer. We have seen Asparagus beds twenty-seven years
old which still yielded abundant crops, the heads measurmg
from 24 in. to 3} in. in circumference.

Early Asparagus.— The Early Argenteuil Asparagus
(fig. 2) is generally round, but _sometimes slightly flattened.
The eyes are not so prominent asin the Late variety, and they

form less regutar spirals. The point_is conical, often swollen

in the er, The heads measure from 27 in. to
5§ in. in circumference at 8? in. from the tip. Fig. 2 shows
eo a

a head of Early Asparagus 0 size drawn from

TURE.

ASPARAGUS CUL'

26

much larger, but a

nature by M. Godefroy-Lebceuf. There were

same time which were ge
medium-sized head was chosen as being a type of the variety

grown at the

HUTT ue I,
Fig. 1.—Late Asparagus.

which is most in favour in the Paris market,

Asparagus attains

often rea

a much greater devel

ching to the height of 10 ft. It is

is not particular as to the

c)
°
afte
2 de
ei Fo
A ple.
3S
3 S)a
ne
ag
Bi 4
4
a>

and

ASPARAGUS CULTURE gy

less it requires a depth of at least 10 in., for the crown of
the root rises every year about 4 in. It begins to yield at
the end of the third year, and from six years old it gives
good crops for from fourteen to fifteen years. After this
time the heads are somewhat smaller, but the crop is abun-
dant. When well cultivated it will continue yielding for from

utch Asparagus.—Dutch Asparagus (fig. 3) is nearl
always round. The eyes are arranged spirally, and are
narrow _and prominent. The tip is sometimes conical, at
there elaavered, aid at times swollen in
the middJe. “The heads are from 14 in.

to 33 in. in circumference, measured at
8fin- trom the tip. Fig. 3 shows one
of the finest heads of this variety, drawn
from nature by M. Godefroy-Lebcouf.
The general height of this Asparagus is
about 6 ft. It is neither so handsome,
3o well-flavoured, nor so tender as the
two Argenteuil varieties. It also re-
quires a much richer and deeper soil ; its
cultivation mm France, therefore, has
been given up by the best growers,
Among other defects which are laid to
its account are the following: it very
soon grows hard, it opens its point very
rapidly, and turns green in twenty-four
hours. This variety fetches but a low
price in the Paris markets, where it is
sold at 1 franc a bundle, while the Ar-
genteuil variety of the same size fetches
from three to four times that price. It
is not a good plant for cultivating on a
large scale, while for amateur growth it
is unsuitable on account of its small
yield and its bitter flavour. It should only, therefore, as a
rule, be grown where other sorts cannot be obtained. It has

28 ASPARAGUS CULTURE

been estimated that it yields only a quarter of the crop
furnished by the Argenteuil sort, all other things being equal.
It also needs greater care and a larger quantity of manure,

The Soil.—Asparagus may be grown, and will thrive, in
almost every kind of soil; heavy and damp soils, however,
must be lightened before they will yield abundant crops. The
best soil for growing Asparagus is a light one, either calcareous,
siliceous, or granitic. If the soil is hard and heavy, it must
be made lighter during the first few years by spreading over
the stools a certain quantity of sand, lime-kiln, or other ashes,
coal-dust, and similar inert materials, until it has lost its
property of hardening and cracking during the dry season.

Preparation of the Ground.—GQenerally speaking, a
great deal of very useless trouble is taken in the preparation
of a piece of ground intended for an Asparagus bed. Some
growers dig out the whole of the soil tothe depth of 3 ft. or
4 ft., filling up the void with masses of manure, which, instead
of favouring the growth of the crop, are not only lost but are
absolutely injurious. When the spot on which the Asparagus
bed is to be formed has been decided on, it is only necessary
to turn up the soil to the depth of from 10 in. to 12 in,
either before or after the winter sets in. Large and small
stones must be carefully removed, so as to render the soil
easier to work. Asparagus requires a firm soil to root in;
we must be careful, therefore, not to dig down below a
greater depth than 12 in,, for if the roots bury themselves at
too great a depth they will feel the effects of the atmosphere
in a very small degree. Their growth will be consequently
retarded, the crop will be smaller, the heads thinner, and the
plants shorter-lived. The soil ought to be allowed to
remain fallow after digging, that is to say, nothing but the
rake should be passed over it to make all smooth—thus
enabling the frost to have a greater action on it than other-
wise. Whatever may be the quality of the soil in other ways,
it is of the greatest importance that the ground should be
cleared of stones great and small, as they not only prevent

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 99

the heads from appearing above the surface, but, by lying on
the tops of them, cause them to bend and become deformed.
The ground should also be kept clear of weeds,

Manuring before Planting.—Except in the case of poor
soil, we need not give any manure before planting. If the
soil is exhausted, we should dig in—either in September,
October, or November, but not later—a quantity of well-
rotted manure, so that by the end of the winter, when we are
about to plant, we may find the whole of it resolved into soil.
As a general rule, we must never manure at the time of
planting, for manure attracts insects, and insects attract moles
and mice, all of which are very injurious to the young
plants.

Choosing the Plants.—If we sow Couch Grass we shall
certainly not reap Wheat ; and if we plant a sickly-looking,
weak tree we shall never produce one that is healthy and
vigorous. If, therefore, we plant puny Asparagus plants we
shall only obtain a wretched crop. We have often heard it
said that it matters little whether the plant is strong or weak,
and that as long as we cultivate properly and give plenty of
manure, we must necessarily obtain firm and well flavoured
Asparagus. There is only one species of edible Asparagus, but
there are almost as many sub-varieties as there are growers,
for when the plant is grown from seed it infallibly varies
when the seed-plants are not specially grown for the purpose.
It is necessary, therefore, to choose our seed from those plants
which produce the finest growths. Between the wild
Asparagus and the varieties which are cultivated now-a-
days the difference is very great. Notwithstanding this, they
are all produced from the same type. Amongst these sub-
varieties there are all kinds of shades, but between the wild
Asparagus and that grown in Holland and at Argenteuil there
is a wonderful difference. Take a walk through the Aspa-
ragus beds of Argenteuil, St. Denis, Gennevilliers, Colombes,
and Sannois, and when the time for cutting arrives, notice
the shape and quality of the heads and taste their flavour and

30 ASPARAGUS CULTURE

you will soon become convinced that the different sorts cannot
be mistaken for each other, neither as to earliness, quality,
form, vigour, or general appearance. It is not sufficient
to find out the localities which are celebrated for the
best growths of Asparagus, but we must also find
out whether they are grown by A or by B, and
even then we may be at a loss, for in one plot B may grow a
crop which leaves nothing to be desired, while the crop in the
very next plot may be worthless. In using the terms variety
and sub-variety we do not intend them to be understood in the
strict botanical sense; they must therefore be looked upon
as cultural expressions, that is to say, that these varieties are
capable of returning to their original type if they are neglected
or badly cultivated. Nothing, therefore, is so difficult as to
procure varieties not merely of good quality, but of exceptional
quality. The choice of plants is therefore a matter of great
importance in growing Asparagus ; so important is it, in fact,
that we should reject all stools offered ata cheap rate, and
always pay a fair sum for them, as long as we are sure of ob-
taining a good variety. What possible good can there be in
exercising economy in purchasing cheap stools which will only
yield one-half or one-third of the crop obtainable from the
best varieties for a few extra pence? In those localities which
are most renowned for Aspatagus—at Argenteuil, for instance—
the growers attach the greatest importance to having good
varieties, and they not only choose them from amongst their
own plants, but from amongst those of their neighbours, so
much so that a grower who has cultivated a number of seed-
bearing plants with the greatest care suddenly finds himself
deprived of them just as the time comes for gathering the
seed. It has also happened that the stools were destroyed by-
those who stole the seed, so that the proper owner of them
was no longer able to procure a supply at will. This trait in
the character of Asparagus growers will show how much im-
portance they attach to the choice of good varieties. Sharp
growers, consequently, who have succeeded in producing rare
sub-varieties, prevent them from becoming multiplied either by

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 81

breaking off the fruit-bearing shoots or by destroying the seeds,
so that they should only be recognised by those in the secret.
If it is a difficult matter to obtain good seed plants in places
where Asparagus growing is carried on on a large scale, it will!
be readily understood that it is almost impossible to find them
in small gardens where the cultivation of Asparagus is almost
unknown. How then are we to recognise a good plant? No-
thing is easier to those who have seen it grow, or more difficult
for those who have only seen it as a stool at the moment of
planting. In making a choice, we must be certain of the
seed in the first place, and ascertain that it comes from a good
variety, after which we destroy all those young plants which
show any signs of departing from the type which we are
desirous of growing. This is an art which can only be
practised with success by those who are thoroughly acquainted
with rearing Asparagus, The wisest course to pursue, there
fore, when about to commence an Asparagus bed is to go to
some well-known firm with a reputation to lose, and to place
full confidence in it for the choice of seeds and plants,
Even when we have a thoroughly good plant in cultivation
we must know how to gather the seed at the proper time and
in the proper manner. In addition to this all of the seed
even from the best plants is not equally good. The seed, for
instance, which has been gathered from a stool which has
flowered side by side with a bad or medium kind, and at the
same time, is worth nothing, because it has been fertilised
badly. Again, the seed should be perfectly ripe, and it
must be kept properly after it has been gathered. The
last heaés generally yield nothing but doubtful seed, which
seldom reproduces the proper type. The seeds which grow
at the end of the shoots also, as well as those produced by the
upper and lower extremities of the stem, have the same
defect. Those seeds, too, which are not sufficiently ripe or
which are too small are sure to produce bad plants. Seed
should be only collected from those plants which have reached
the age of from seven to ten years and which carry but few
seed-vessels, The seed-bearing stems also yield bad seed
3

32 ASPARAGUS OULTURE,

By the above we can easily see that the difference between
the difficulty of procuring good seed and good plants is
enormous; we therefore recommend the amateur and small
grower to ‘give up all ideas of raising Asparagus from seed.

The Age and Strength of the Plants.—Two-year-
old stools are still planted by some, but for a long time past
practical growers have given up planting stools of more than
a year old. The plant from a two-year-old stool is always a
bad one, no matter what may have been the amount of care
which has been bestowed on it, for the reason that it produces
too many heads, which consequently lack strength and sap.
General weakness is the consequence, and the crops are all
puny and of poor quality. Asparagus is a plant of vigorous
growth, but no plant in proper health would stand transplant-
ing the second year without suffering from it; it would, in
fact, give an abortive growth, which would never produce
good heads. A plant which has come off a healthy stock is
sufficiently strong for planting at a year old, and all of an
o'der growth should be neglected. Great attention, therefore,
is necessary in our choice of plants, and, as we have said
before, bad goods are always dear, more especially i in the case
of Asparagus. The strength or size of the stools is of little
consequence if the seed has been good, so that at the end of
the second year there is but little difference between them.

Form of the Ground for Planting.—If you wish to
plant a plot of Asparagus distinct from the rest of the kitchen
garden, you must open several trenches at about 36 in. apart,
10 in. deep, and 10 in. wide, throwing up on each side the
earth taken out, so as to form a mound, as shown in fig. 4 at
RRR. The line which passes beneath the letters HHH shows
the level of the earth, and the upper part of the earth
taken out of the trenches, The letters mm (fig. 4)
show the stools in their proper position before they
have been covered with a layer of earth. It will be noticed
that the sides of the trenches are almost perpendicular below
ground, and that above ground they form an angle with the

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 33

mound at the level of the soil. This angle disappears
as soon as the stool is covered over with earth, and
the base of the mound is at the bottom of the trench, the
sides meeting in an angle at the top. Beware of digging up
the bottom of the trench, or of hoeing or raking it as recom-
mended by many authors. The soil should be left alone, for As-
paragus likes torun overthesurfaceand notto penetrate beneath
it; besides, as already stated, the roots, if they penetrate too
deeply, will not feel the beneficial effects of the sun during the
spring, On the other hand, they may meet with a subsoil that is
cold, damp, and dry, all of which conditions are unfavourable
to the plant, independently of the fact that the manure which

Fig. 4.—Asparagus trenches.

has been applied has great difficulty in reaching the roots,
either nullifying its effects entirely or retarding them consider-
ably. If the soil is very light, instead of digging trenches
of 10 in. make them only 7 in. or 8 in. in depth. If the
ground is very dry and we plant late, the trenches should not
be more than 10 in. deep, and a hole of from 2 in. to 24 in,
should be dug out to receive the stool. Loose earth is then
thrown in and the whole is filled up until it takes the form
shown in the cut (fig. 4). If you do not wish to have an
Asparagus plot distinct from your ordinary kitchen garden,
open several trenches a yard wide at a distance of 3 or 4 yds.
from each other and plant in two rows. By adopting this
plan your Asparagus will havea considerable space over which

84 ASPARAGUS OULTURE,

to spread its roots, which will by this means run no danger of
becoming entangled with those of the plants in the neighbour-
ing trenches. They will thus become finer, more succulent,
and will last longer. Most authors recommend the use of long
trenches dug to the depth of at least a yard, and filled up
with all kinds of manure and composts, Experience has
shown fora long time past that no method could be much
worse than the one just described. Besides being expensive,
the yield of Asparagus is late, sparse, and weak ; in fact, it
is the primitive method of growing Asparagus.

Distance between the Plants.—When we plant in an
vpen plot the stools should be at least 3 ft. 3 in. from each
other, but if two rows of plants are grown side by side they
should be 2 ft. 8 in. fromeach other. For our own beds we
have adopted a uniform distance of 4 ft. between the lines,
the plants being 3 ft. 3 in. apart. By this means we have
more room for the earth taken out of the trenches, and the
mounds are more easily made and kept in order. This method,
therefore, is the cheapest in the end. Whatever may be the
distance, the weight of the crop is about the same if the plants
be kept properly apart, but crowded Asparagus beds produce
late and smaller crops of very inferior appearance and quality,
besides which they are much more quickly exhausted. They
require more manure, and their cultivation is much more diffi-
cult and costly, Such plantations are more liable to the
attacks of insects, and become unfit for good plants, seeing
that they degenerate towards the original stock much more
quickly. We have, therefore, everything to lose and nothing
to gain by not planting the stools at a sufficient distance
apart.

Planting,—We plant Asparagus both in the spring and
autumn. The autumn plantings do not succeed in light
soils ; most of the young shoots die down during the winter,
and those which resist present but a wretched appearance.
In cold climates autumn planting meets with but little better
success, even in the case of dry soils; this is due to the fact

ASPARAGUS OULTUBE 35.

that Asparagus, being a succulent plant, does not grow in the
winter like woody-fibred plants, and that it very often rots
when it is placed in the ground too soon. It is only in
southern climates that it may be planted in autumn or winter.
Whether you plant in beds or borders, the proper position of each
stool must be marked off with the measuring line and dibber.
Having completed this part of the operation, bring a little
light soil over the part marked, so as to form a little mound as
shown at m M (fig. 4) of about 2 in. in height, and in the form
of a flattened sugar-loaf, continuing the operations to the end
of each line. You next take a stool and spread it out on the
little mound, arranging the roots in such a manner that they
neither touch nor cross each other, covering them up toa depth
of from 3in. to 4 in. with fine, light soil. Press the soil
down firmly over the roots so as to bring them close togethey

Fig. 6.—Asparagus trenches after planting.

so that the stool may not be disturbed, as well as to drive out
all the air from beneath the soil, and the operation is finished.
It now only remains for us to fill up the empty spaces between
the mounds with earth, smoothing the surface of the bottom of
each trench with therake level with the line B, as shown in fig. 5,
that is tothe depth of 4 in. Fig. 4 shows asection of the beds be-
fore they are planted, and fig. 5 a section of them after the
operation has been completed, with the exception that the
stools and mounds are shown while they are really covered
up by the soil which has been taken from the mounds, where
they formed an angle on a level with HH (fig. 5). The stools

36 ASPARAGUS OULTURE

consequently are covered up as far as the dotted line B 10,
that is to say, to the depth of an additional 4 in., including
the little mounds which have been flattened down by the
superincumbent pressure, and are now only from 4 in. to 1 in.
thick. For planting under walls on the level surface we dig
holes of 8 in. in depth, refilling with 1 in. of light earth, and
plant according to the directions given above, filling up with
33 in. to 4 in. of earth. Small mounds are placed round the
plant so as to attract the humidity of the soil, if it is dry, and on
the mounds must be formed others, or the Asparagus heads will
be too short. Some authors recommend that the stools should
be planted as soon as they are pulled up, but this is an error,
for Asparagus takes root much more readily when it is faded.
Like all succulent plants it is apt to rot if it is planted when
quite fresh. It has also been observed that plants sent from
a distance strike root much more easily than those taken from
a plantation close by, and produce much better heads. We
have ourselves planted on the 16th of April stools which were
taken out of the ground on the 20th of the previous Febru-
ary, and the plants which they produced were in all respects
most satisfactory.

TREATMENT OF YOUNG PLANTS,

First Year.—The operations to be performed during the
first year are limited to keeping the Asparagus plantations
constantly free from weeds, hunting down the Crioceris Aspa-
ragi, as explained farther on, and placing sticks at the bottom
of each stool as soon as the stems are 18 in. or 20 in, high,
For the latter purpose we insert a little stick of wood at
12 in. or 14 in, from the stool so as to avoid all danger of
hurting the roots, bending the stick over until it is in close
proximity to the shoot we desire to protect. At the point
where the stick touches the shoot we tie them together with
a piece of bast or other tying material. This operation is for
the purpose of preventing the wind from disturbing the stool
in the soil by shaking the shoot backwards and forwards,
This precaution is very necessary in localities exposed to high

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 37

winds, but it is much too often neglected, and the Asparagus
suffers accordingly. Where Asparagus is grown on a large
scale, this support is dispensed with, the stool being covered
up with fresh soil in the month of July. As it often happens
that late shoots issue from the stools, they also should be fixed
to a support as they come up. This operation is also unneces-
sary when the plant is grown on a large scale. If very dry
weather sets in, we may throw on the stools 3 in. or 4 in. of
soil taken from the mounds. The rain and the action of the
hoe cause the soil of the mounds to fall into the trenches, so
that the stools which were once covered with 4 in. of soil, at
the end of the season become covered to the depth shown by
the line o, fig. 5. In the month of November the surface of
the trench is brought down to the level of the line 8, fig. 2, or
even below it, by throwing back the soil on to the mounds at
each side before manuring.

Second Year.—In the month of March, after having dug
up the mounds, we throw a few inches of earth into the
trenches, raising the level to between the lines B and o, or
aven up to o (fig. 5), but not higher. In performing this
operation we must be careful not to touch the young shoots,
which will have just been formed, for if we hurt the stool
the crop is endangered. During this year the same ordinary
operations of weeding, hoeing, d&c., are performed as described
in the directions for the first year, keeping a sharp look-out
for the advent of the Crioceris. In the month of November
the trenches are dug up by taking up the soil as far as the
line B (fig. 5) if the stool has not become raised, but in such a
manner as to leave a good 2 in. on the roots. We then scatter
throughout the whole length of the trenches either well-rotted
manure, oil cake, or artificial manure in the proper propor-
tions, throwing back the soil on to the mounds, as in the first
year. The winter being over, the trenches are filled with
from 1} in. to 24 in. of earth, so as to bring them to the
level of the line B (fig. 5), making the arched tops as high as
the line p, describing the curve shown by the dotted line.

38 ASPARAGUS CULTURE

Before making these mounds we must take away the old shoota
by detaching them gently from the stool.

Third Year.—During the third year we proceed as during
the first, with the exception that if the plantation has pros-
pered we may gather our first crop, taking only two or three
heads, but not more, from the healthiest-looking stools. In
the autumn the trenches are cleared in the same way as in
the first two years, and the mounds then are manured, as will
‘be described presently. The mounds are lowered as during
the first year, but we must only manurelightly. The weaker-
looking stools are marked with a stick, so that they should
not be earthed up in the coming spring, and so have nothing
gathered from them. As for those which are strong and
healthy we stick two or three old Asparagus heads into each
stool, taking one out for each young head that we gather, so
as to keep count of thecrop. This is only done during the
first year.

Fourth Year,—This year’s operations coincide absolutely
with those of the second year, with the exception that we
may gather one crop during a period of three weeks, taking
care, however, not to try the weaker stools too much. The
trenches are manured during the winter, and when spring
arrives we scatter over them a little soil, so that the stools
may be buried to a depth of about 5 in. For this operation
we must refer the reader to the Calendar of the Asparagus
Cultivator.* From this period the stool producing its roots
at the collar has a constant tendency to raise itself. It is fut
this reason that, having cleared it of soil in the autumn and
earthed it up again in spring, in fifteen years the mounds will be
lowered entirely to the general level of the beds, as indicated
by the line H H & (fig. 5). In order to earth up the stools,
we are consequently obliged to take the soil away from the
mounds, which, so to speak, now become lower than the

* See page 57.

ASPARAGUS OULTURE 89

stools themselves. The earthed-up stools now reach to the
height of the line E (fig. 5), and even to the line Fr, if the
beds are very old. Early Asparagus rises, as a rule, about
4.in. per annum, and the Late about half that distance.

List of operations to be performed after the fourth year :

1.—In November take away the tall shoots after having
cut them away about the soil.

Daring the winter we must break down the mounds at
least every three years.

3.—Rebuild the mounds,

4,—Manure must ha distributed.

5.—Make up the bottom of the trenches at the end of the
winter (say from the 15th to the 20th of March), by covering
them with 3 in. or 4 in. of soil that we took out of them
and threw on the mounds in the autumn.

6.—Towards the end of March take away the old heads
and form arched-headed_mounds of 7 in, or 8 in, in depth
over the stools,

7.—Hoe as often as necessity requires it; but, whether
weeds are troublesome or not, the whole ground should be
well hoed four times a year from March to October, namely
in April, June, July, and September.

8.—Break down the small round-headed mounds immedi
ately after the crop has been gathered, except high winds
are liable to break the shoots, in which case it is better not
to unearth.

9.—Support the shoots with sticks if necessary, but this is
not needful when the plant is produced on a large scale.

Digging.—Under this heading may be included both the
breaking down and building up operations connected with
Asparagus culture, as well as the frequent hoeings which
must be practised. The hoeings are a kind of superficial
digging which only penetrated a slight depth below the surface,
and are performed by means of a shallow hoe or even a
rake. The other two operations are performed with the large
hoe and flat-toothed fork. This latter instrument is but

40 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

little known and used, but it is of the greatest possible service,
and we recommend it highly to Asparagus growers.

Shallow Hoeing is a very simple and very easy opera-
tion, so well known as not to need description. We ought,
however, to remark that it is essential to use a very light tool
and not:to disturb the earth to so great a depth as is done
in certain localities. It is only necessary to penetrate to a
depth of about 4 in., so as to cut off the weeds at the crown.
If we hoe more deeply than this we shall not only bring up
to the surface a number of seeds which will promptly ger-
minate, but we shall cut the weeds too far below the collar,
at the same time pushing them back again into the soil, so
that after the next shower of rain we shall be surprised to see
a large number of them lifting up their heads once more,
Digging operations require a much greater amount of atten-
tion than light hoeing. The labourer, armed with his fork,
sits astraddle on the mound and stirs up the soil at the sides,
throwing a little of it behind him without destroying the
shape of the mound too much, and taking care not to hurt
the roots of the Asparagus plants, which he may easily do if
he works below the surface of the soil in the trenches.

In sandy situations, or very soft soils, there are certain
strong-growing weeds that the flat-toothed fork is powerless
to destroy ; in this case the large broad hoe must be used,
but it requires long practice to handle this implement properly.
It is a very tiring tool to use, but it completely moves the
earth, for it makes a hole like a spade. The hoe has the
advantage of not interfering with the form of the mound, so
that it leaves no work behind it. But, in spite of every pre-
caution, the form of the mound is more or less spoiled by
digging operations, so that it must be restored to its original
shape by the aid of the flat hoe or the small hoe. Careful
growers overturn their mounds every year; others, every two
years ; while others only perform this operation once in three
years, There is no doubt, however, that the more the earth
is disturbed the more active is the growth of the plants,

Qe

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 41

Manures and How to Use them.—By adopting the
method of culture described above, we need only use a com-
paratively small amount of manure, hardly double the quan-
tity of that employed for root crops—Potatoes, for instance,
All manures are apparently good for Asparagus; there are,
however, certain precautions to be taken in using them. For
instance, farm-yard manure should not be employed in too
fresh a condition, as it would affect the roots and certainly
spoil the crop for two or three years. We must also beware
of employing other manures of too active a nature, such as
lime, sheep’s, asses’, or mules’ manure in too large doses. We
may obtain excellent results on certain soils by using a double
dressing composed of one-half stable manure and one-half dried
blood, guano, burnt seaweed, &c., but it must be tried on a
small scale before applying it to the whole plantation. The
ingredients are not to be mixed together, but applied separately,
the blood, guano, or seaweed being used first. A good deal
has been said about the use of common salt in Asparagus
culture ; but we have tried it several times without being able
to come to any exact opinion on the subject. We should
consequently advise Asparagus growers to make a trial of it
on a small scale before applying it to the whole of their beds,
in order not to run the risk of accident. There are two
methods of applying manures—the first by placing them in the
trenches ; the second by distributing them over the mounds.
The following is the general mode of procedure: We must
always be careful to manure either before or at the begin-
ning of the winter, in order that the rains may have time to
dissolve the more soluble portions and carry them down to
the roots. If we defer the application of the manure until
spring, the good effects of it will scarcely be apparent, or it
will not be perceived until a year has elapsed. When we
adopt the system of dressing the trenches, we begin by taking
off the top of the small mounds, and, this being done, we
spread the manure throughout the whole length and breadth
of the trench, taking care to keep the stools free from it,
and more especially the spots from which the young heads

42 ABPARAGUS CULTURE

will spring, as the immediate contact of manure of any kind
with them will rust them and render them unsaleable and
uneatable. The quantity of manure to be used varies accord-
ing to circumstances. In the case of short stable manure,
from which all the long straw has been removed, it is applied
in 2 layer of from 1 in. to 14 in. in thickness across the
whole width of the trench, or only from 16 in. to 20 in. in
length, according to the age of the stools. At Argenteuil
a cubic foot of night-soil is used for every five or six
stools, that is to say, about a cubic yard for every 140 stools,
once in two years. In spring, the soil which was taken
during the process of unearthing, is replaced, so that the
manure now becomes covered to the depth of from 3 in. to
4 in. In manuring the mounds we must begin to open them
up as soon as possible, that is to say, towards the end of
October. This is effected by cutting a number of trenches
14 in. in width and of such a depth as to reach to the
bottom of the main trenches without injuring the roots of
the plants. The soil which 1s taken out of these small
trenches is deposited in the main trenches between each stool
of Asparagus, so placed as not to cover up these latter; in
fact, so that it may be gathered up again when necessary
without endangering the young shoots which mark the posi-
tion of the stools. These small trenches being made, the
manure is thrown into them toa depth of at least 24 in, the
extra soil is replaced, and the mounds are trimmed up. The
trenches are opened up either with the flat hoe or with the
spade. The flat hoe is the most difficult to manage, but the
work is done much quicker than when the spade is used.
We should advise Asparagus growers to use the flat hoe in
localities where the soil is pretty free from stones. In stony
soils the trenches are somewhat difficult to open up, and we
are sometimes obliged to have recourse to the large-toothed
fork to stir up the soil, which is afterwards carried away by
the shovel. In the latter case we must manure much more
generously, and only undertake this operation once every four
or five years, in order to avoid a too frequent recurrence of

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 43

the expense and inconvenience it gives rise to. It may ke
performed during the fourth, eighth, and twelfth years.

Unearthing.—This is the term given by the Argenteuil
growers to the operation which consists in taking out the soil
from the bottom of the hollows or trenches in which the
Asparagus stools are planted and throwing it upon the mound
from which it was taken. When first a plantation is made
the intermediate mounds have a pretty rapid slope, that is to
say, they form an angle of 45° with the perpendicular. It is
plain, therefore, that the soil forming their sides will gradu-
ally tend to fill up the intervening hollows, either from the
action of the rain or from the constant weedings with or
without the use of the hoe. Commencing with the autumn
immediately following the first planting we must begin to
unearth, that is to say, to clear out of the trenches the soil
which has fallen into them from the sides of the mounds, and
also remove from above the stools a portion of that with
which they were covered at the time they were planted, say
to the depth of 1} in. or so, so that the action of the frost
may open the soil and that the rain may penetrate and im-
prove it, also that during the first fine days of spring the
sun may warm the surface of the soil and penetrate as far as
the stooL Under the old-fashioned system the contrary
operation took place. The trenches were filled with manure
and stable litter for fear that the action of the frost should
kill the plants. This is an error which has luckily long been
exploded. The Asparagus will never freeze as long as the
stool is covered with a layer of soil of 1} in. to 1} in. in depth.

Harthing up the Mounds.— Earthing-up operations
should be commenced at the beginning of March. This
operation consists in taking out the soil which was thrown
into the trenches at the end of the preceding autumn and
restoring it to the sides of the mounds. Some growers
divide this operation into two parts, one being performed in
March and the other in April, so as not to interfere with the
warming up of the earth by the solar rays, for when it is

44 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

completed at one operation the heat penetrates the soil with
much less rapidity and the growth of the plants is much
retarded. A layer of fresh soil } in. thick is also thrown into
the trenches, so that the roots may be covered to a total
depth of from 3 in. to 34 in. Treated in this way Asparagus
will stand the drought of summer without harm. For earth-
ing up the large flat or the narrow hoe is used.

Formation of the lesser Mounds over the Stools.
—tThe formation of the lesser mounds covering the stools
should be begun about the 25th of March in the climate of
Paris, but in warmer localities about twelve or fifteen days
before the first young heads begin to make their appearance,
These lower mounds will vary in height according to the age
of the plantation.. The following measurements may be taken as
being pretty near the mark: At three years from the first crop,
from 5 in. to 6 in. ; at four years, from 6 in. to 7 in. ; at five
years, from 7 in. to 8 in.; at six years, and for all the fol-
lowing years, from 8 in. to 9 in. These differences in the
heights of the lower mounds are dependent on the size
of the stool The stronger the stool the greater the depth of
earth above it that it will support, seeing that the larger and
stronger the heads the more easily can they penetrate the
superincumbent soil, whilst a young and comparatively weak
shoot will become sickly during the process of slowly pushing
itself through, besides which, it will most likely become so
deformed as to be unfit for market. By properly earth-
ing up we may obtain heads of the following lengths: third
year, 9 in. ; fifth year, 10 in. ; sixth year. 11 in. ; and all the
other years from 11 in. to 12 in. For making the lesser
mounds we use the narrow or broad hoe, taking care to use
fine open mould which has been well exposed to the atmo-
sphere, so that the young heads may push through it easily.
If it contains any stones they must be carefully sifted out and
not allowed to remain in the plantation, for reasons already
stated. We must also be careful not to allow any manure to
remain in these lesser mounds. In order to gain an exact

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 45

notion of the way in which these lesser mounds are fcrmed,
we have only to glance at fig. 6, where we have the section
of an Asparagus plantation before these lower mounds have
been formed. The stools are at the bottom of the hollows
T T, and the upper mounds a a are at their greatest height,
whilst after the operation of earthing up the lesser mounds
has taken place, the aspect of the ground becomes completely

Fig. 6.—Asparagus trenches before earthing up.

changed, as seen in fig 7. The mounds a a (fig. 6) are
lowered, their tops 0 0 c being completely carried away, as
shown in fig. 7, in order to fill up the trenches and form the
lower mounds B B, covering up the Aspargus stools rT T (fig.
7). It must be perfectly understood that the lesser mounds

oh

j= ee?

Fig. 7.—daparsems trenches after enttliiag ap.

which earth up the stools are not continuous ridges like the
upper ones a A (figs. 6 and 7), but form little isolated conical
hillocks, like mole-hills, the centre of each being over the
centre of each Asparagus stool. Consequently, B B (fig. 7)
represents a series of separate mounds and not a continuous
ridge running from one end of the trench to the other. Some
cultivators recommend that these lower mounds should be

46 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

made isolated one year and in the form of a continuous ndge
the next. There is, however, no advantage in this; on the
contrary, we think that there is a double inconvenienca
involved in this method, for not only is the labour of cultiva-
tion rendered much more difficult and irregular, but the stools
do not gain so much benefit from the rain. It happens fre-
quently that during the gathering in of the crop heavy rains
set in, followed by great drought. In this case the mounds
become excessively hard, and the heads find the greatest
difficulty in penetrating the thick crust of their prison. Now
is the time to use the three-pronged fork and stir up the earth
to the depth of from 1 to 14 in. only, so as not to injure the
young heads, which are just beginning to push their way
through. Three such forkings are sufficient for each mound.

Gathering the Crop, Keeping, Packing for Market,
and Transport.—The Asparagus cutter must know his
business, otherwise he will do more harm than good by injuring
the stools. In former times Asparagus cutters used a long
knife curved at the point, the cutting edge of which was
toothed like a saw or nicked like a scythe. This erroneous
method has long since been abandoned, and the crop is
gathered as follows: We must first of all clear away the soil
which surrounds the head we are going to Gather, elther with
the Gngers or cise with the point of the knife-used for cutting
it. The knife is then thrust down so as almost to reach the
root, taking care not to cut or bruise the neighbourmg heads
which have not yet pierced the soil. The head is seized
between the knife and the thumb as near the root as possible,
by pressing the blade of the knife firmly against its base,
taking care not to bend or bruise the head in the middle.
The head, being held firmly between the knife and the thumb,
is gently pulled or twisted out and removed, the hole left
by it is filled with soil by means of the cutting knife or the
fingers, and the operation is finished. Care must be taken
not to cut the head with the knife, which is only used as a
lever and not as a cutting instrument. In order that Aspara

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 47

gus may be gathered in this manner, it must be grown on
the Argenteuil system, otherwise the heads being hard and
woody it will be found impossible to detach them easily from
the parent stool. Where this method is carried out carefully
it has a great advantage over the old-fashioned system of
cutting with a saw-bladed knife, and we strongly recommend
all growers to practise it. It is somewhat slower, it is true,
but it has the great advantage of not wounding the heads
surrounding those which are pulled up, as well as of sepa-
rating the useless stump of each head from the stool, instead
of allowing it to wither and rot. For this purpose we have
invented a special instrument in the form of a large, flat,
shallow spoon, which is very easy to use. The best time for
gathering Asparagus is when it shows some 1} in. to 2 in. above
the ground. If itis gathered sooner than this there is a Joss, in
consequence of the heads not being sufficisntly mature. If
we defer it until later, the heads lose their proper flavour
and hue, and become bitter in taste and green in colour;
besides which it is only eatable throughout a portion of its
length.

Keeping.—If we cannot use the gathered Asparagus at
once, it must be carefully moved into a cellar specially. de-
voted to the purpose. It must not be either washed or damped,
and must be spread on the ground in the coolest and darkest
part of the cellar out of reach of the light. Asparagus may
be kept in this way for nearly a week, but it loses part of its
flavour, becomes harder, and does not cook so well. If the
crop is intended for market, it must be tied up into bundles,
the size of which is regulated by the locality to which they
are intended to be sent. At Argenteuil the bundles are
generally from 64 in. to 74 in. in diameter in the middle, and
from 42 in. to 54 in. in diameter at the head. To make the
heads up into bundles, a small bench is used, to which is
fixed at right angles a piece of board containing a hole of
from 4% in. to 54 in. in diameter, and 12 in. deep, the hole
being backed by another piece of board firmly screwed on.
About 10 in. in front of this piece of board is another up-

4

48 ASPARAGUS OULTURE

right piece fixed parallel to it, and provided with a U-shaped
hole. This upright piece slides backwards and forwards in a
groove and may be fixed at any distance from the first upright
piece by means of a thumb-screw. One of the sides of
the U is hinged, so as to allow the workman to remove the
bundle. The workman sits in front of the bundling bench,
and turning it with the hole away from him and the U nearest
to him, he chooses the best heads of Asparagus from a heap
by his side, and places them in the U, allowing their tips to rest
lightly in the stopped hole. If the Asparagus is flat he
places it in such a way that the largest part is on the outside of
the bundle. The medium-sized and smaller heads are placed
in the centre. The heads are so adjusted in the hole that they
are quite level. When the bundle is large enough a strip
of Willow is passed round it about 4 in. from the top, and
firmly tied, but, of course, without bruising the heads,
Another strip of Willow is tied round the bundle about 4 in.
from the lower end. Any of the heads whose lower extremi-
ties project too far beyond the bottom of the bundle are cut
off level, and the operation is finished. Crooked heads
may, with care and gentleness, be bent perfectly straight. If
they break during the operation the two pieces may be united
by inserting a sliver of wood into one of the broken ends and
then sticking it into the other. When the whole of the
gathering has been made up into bundles, they are placed
upright in tubs or tanks of water, which must completely
cover them. They are left in this condition for several hours
and are then washed with a long-haired brush, which is passed
gently over them backwards and forwards. They are then
drained for ten minutes or so and are ready to be sent to
market.

Packing and Carriage.—Asparagus is sent to market in
large, strongly-made baskets, which contain twenty or thirty
bundles and even more. The bottom of the basket is lined
with hay or straw as well as the sides, after which the Aspara-
gus bundles are put in rows and pressed together sideways
pretty firmly, so that they cannot shake about, A layer of

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 49

atraw is now placed, and another layer of Asparagus, and sc
on till the basket is nearly full, a thicker layer of hay or
straw being placed on the top of all. Great care must be
taken not to stint the amount of hay or straw used in lining
the top, bottom, and sides of the basket, otherwise the tips
of the heads will be knocked off and the Asparagus rendered
unsaleable. The Asparagus grower who seeks to do a good
trade must exercise great taste and judgment in preparing his
merchandise for market, ‘The first thing to be done is to
place the largest and best looking heads on the outside of the
bundle. Towards the end of the season, however, Early
Asparagus becomes rather small; we must therefore have at
hand a certain quantity of large heads of Late Asparagus, so
as to be able to “dress” the bundles in a proper manner.

Dirrerent Metuops or Growine ASPARAGUS.

As we have already said, Asparagus may be grown in a
variety of ways—in square or oblong beds, or in borders
under a wall, in separate stools, or isolated plots.

In Square Beds.—This is the mode of culture which has
just been described, and consists in opening a number of
trenches side by side with each other at a distance of from
3 ft. 3 in. to 4 ft. 9 in., according to circumstances.

In Oblong Beds.—We have also spoken of this method
of culture, which consists in planting two rows of Asparagus
side by side, leaving a wide empty space between them, so
that the roots which spread out very widely may not become
entangled or live at the expense of each other.

Wall Borders.—We may grow Asparagus on wall bor
ders, in lines between the Vines in a Vineyard, or between
espaliers. With a northern exposure we shall get a late crop,
with a southern an early one.

Separate Stools.—We may also grow Asparagus in single
stools in Vineyards in corners, in fact, wherever a piece of
ground is to be found upon which the sun shines. Asparagus
grown thus continues to bear for a long time, and in no way

50 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

yields to that grown in square plots. Most of the Argentenil
Asparagus is grown in isolated stools in Vineyards.

In Clumps.—In newly-planted orchards we may plant
between each tree a clump of eight stools, which will yield
good crops for fifteen years. The manure and cultivation
given to the Asparagus helps the neighbouring trees. Thus
we may increase our fruit crop and grow Asparagus at the
same time.

Each of these methods has its peculiar advantages. Plant-
ing in the opeu square bed allows us to choose the most
favourable situation for growing the plant without disturbing
the harmony of our ordinary kitchen garden, but the yield
is not so good and the plantation does not last so long. In
the long-bed system we may grow Asparagus nearly any-
where, and thus destroy the symmetry of our kitchen garden,
injure the neighbouring crops, and increase the difficulty of
gathering, by reason of the large extent of ground to be
traversed by the labourer. If we plant in wall borders we
often utilise ground which otherwise would be very often lost,
but with a southern aspect we must take care to plant at a
distance of at least 10 in. from the foot of the wall, With

a northern, western, or eastern aspect we can plant in the plot
at a less distance. In the isolated stool system we may
obtain very fair results in well ventilated situations. In
Vineyards, for instance, we may obtain large crops of
Asparagus of excellent quality. It is by adopting this
method of Asparagus growing that the Argenteuil growers
obtain such fine results both in the way of the natural
product and the pocket. These isolated stools cost but little
to establish, and last for a long time. We have seen stools
twenty-eight years old, which still gave excellent crops. On
the clump system, when planted amongst tall trees, we may
gain great advantages from this mode of culture. As yet it
has been but little practised, but we strongly recommend it,
on account of the excellent results which it yields. It may
easily be conceived that if we grow Asparagus at the foot of

ASPARAGUS OULTURE. 51

a tree, digging, hoeing, and weeding are unnecessary, and that
these isolated clumps will furnish large and good crops for
many years, especially in those places which have been dug
deeply for the reception of trees, or where new soil and manure
have been laid down for the same purpose, and that without
in any way injuring the neighbouring. trees, which themselves
in turn profit by the care bestowed on the Asparagus, as well
as by the manure with which it is dressed from time to time.
Cost AND YIELD or A HeEcTaRE (24 acres) PLANTED
with ASPARAGUS AT ARGENTEUIL.

Opening the trenches, making the mounds, planting

the stools at the rate of 100 stools per work-

ing day, at 4s. 2d., or £2 per thousand for

10,000 stools ... a £20
10,000 stools at £3 12s, per 1000 aes eee 36
Carriage and sundries, say ... oes oes 4

£60

By spreading this sum over twenty years, the ae life

of a plantation, we have per annum... £3
Rent of one hectare of land at 2s. 44d. per acre,

say . on aee wae 12
Labour, one e hectare, say si aan eee 14
Manure, per annum 14
Cutting, pulling, bundling, cartage to Paris market 40
Sundries, say ak ose 3

£86

The medium yield of each stool is half a bundle,
which for 10,000 stools would be 5000 bundles,

at say Is. Tha. aie wee £400
Deduct for bad crops, damage, “ke. oes eve 60
£340

Expenses eer eco een eco 86

52

counting twenty years of full crops, for although we only
begin to pull at the end of three years, the stool is just as
likely to last twenty-four years as twenty. We have also not
taken into consideration the choice early bundles, which
often sell for 12s, or 15s. at the beginning of the season
instead of 1s, 74d., besides which we must deduct the
expenses of gathering for the first three years.
CoMPARISON BETWEEN DutcH & ARGENTEUDL ASPARAGUS.
A great number of persons do not yet seem to properly
understand the difference between the Argenteuil Asparagus
and that of other celebrated localities. The following are
some comparative calculations which will enable them to
judge of the merits of the case. The experiments of which
the figures are the outcome were made on thirty-five stools of
the same age of each variety. The plants were reared in
the same soil and were seven years old, the gatherings being
made under precisely the same conditions.

ARGENTEUIL ASPARAGUS, Dourcu AspaRaats,
First gathering made April 20.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE

(Early.)

First_ gathering made April 3.
Produce of @ uring
forty-two days—29 heads, weigh-
ing 1540 gra. (say 3 Ib. 64 02.).
Prices at the market rate in the

Paris market.
1540 grs. (say 3 1b. 64 02.) re-
precu half a bundle, a good
undle weighing from 3 kilos. to
3 kilos. 200 (say 64 lb. to 6% Ib.).
Amongst these heads there were
ten small, eleven medium, and
eight large, which taken at the
ordinary price would have sold
at the rate of 3 fr. (2s. 43d.) Py
bundle, or 1 fr. 50 c. (1s. 24d.) ;
but as the latter do not fetch so
much as the former, this price
must be reduced to 1 fr. (ond)

Produce of a stool during forty

two days—24 heads, weighing

605 grs. (say 1 Ib. 54 0z.),

Price at the market rate in the
Paris market.

605 grs. (say 1 lb. 54 0z.) repre-
sents about the fifth of an ordi-
nary bundle of from 3 kilos. to
3 kilos. 200 (say 64 Ib. to 6% Ib.).
The heads were none of them
very large. There were eight
very small, ten medium, and six
somewhat large. The ordinary
pe for a similar quality would

e 1 fr. 50 c. per bundle (say
1s, 24d.) ; the value of the crop
would therefore be 30 c. (3d.).

Wishing to push our experiments farther, we undertook
an investigation into the quantity of eatable substance con-

ASPARAGUS OULTURR 53

tained in each variety, with the following result. We first o!
all weighed out 1400 grammes (3 Ib.) of Argenteuil and
Dutch Asparagus, that is to say,

ARGENTEUIL ASPARAGUS.

Grammes.
Ved ... 1400 (3 Ib.)
erbeing peeled .

they only meighe 5} 1070 (2:35 Ib.)

‘00. the

weighed»... } 1050 (2'81 Ib.)

The Argenteuil Asparagus when
served at table and eaten left a
residue of uneatable stalk weigh-
ing 40U grammes (0°88 Ib.), that
is to say, the eatable portion of
the 1400 grammes of raw vege-
table amounted to close on 1000
grammes or 2:2 lb.

This variety took only twelve
minutes to cook, and was tender,
Sweet, and pleasant to the taste.

Durca ASPARAGUS

Grammes.

Vedra i 1400 (3 Ib.)

ter being peele
thevonly quate } 1050 (2°31 1b.)
ee they }1030 (2-26 Ib.

The Dutch Asparagus when
served at table and eaten left a
residue of uneatable stalk weigh
ing 704 grammes (1°54 lb.), that
is to say, the eatable part of the
1400 grammes of raw vegetable
only amounted to 696 grammes
or 1°53 lb.

This variety took seventeen
minutes to cook, and was some-
what woody and very bitter.

These results show that there is really no comparison in point
of merit between the Argenteuil and Dutch varieties. In
point of quantity there is a difference of two-thirds in favour
of the former Asparagus. Again, in point of price the
advantage also rests with the Argenteuil variety, that is to
say, 1 franc (about 94d.) against 30 cents (about 3d.). As
for the eatable portion, there is more than one-third more in
the Argenteuil variety. Those who grow to sell will have
little difficulty in deciding upon which variety to plant. The
amateur also who prefers quality to quantity will hesitate still
less, as the Argenteuil variety is sweeter and more succulent
than the Dutch, which has a disagreeably bitter flavour. To
this must be added the fact that the Dutch Asparagus requires
a richer soil and double the quantity of manure.

CoMPARISON BETWEEN A PLANTATION MADE WITH STooLs
or A YEAR OLD AND ANOTHER MADE WITH STooLs
or Two on THRFE YEARS OLD.

There are still persons who think that if they plant stools
of two and three years old they will be able to gather their

64 ASPARAGUS CULTURE

crops earlier than when employing plants of one year old. In
order to disabuse their minds of this old-fashioned prejudice,
we shall place before them the result of some compara-
tive experiments which we have recently made in spite of the
question having long since been decided. We planted twelve
stools of one, two, and three years old respectively in the
same soil under the same conditions and at the same time.
Calling those plantings Nos. 1, 2, and 3, the following is the
result obtained during the first year :—

No. 1.—All the stools came up before May 4 and were well
grown.

No. 2.—Ten stools showed above ground before May 4,
one on the 10th, and one appeared to be dead. The Asparagus
heads were very fiitle—finer, indeed, than those of No. 1.

No. 3.—Eight stools showed above ground before May 4,
one on the 12th, and three gave no signs of life. The heads
were very fine at first, but they became bent towards the
end of the year (September 15) and were much weaker than
those of No. 2.

Second Year.—No. 1.—Well-grown, regular, and strong
heads, which measured on September 15 1 in. in circum-
ference.

No. 2.—Well-grown, but irregular heads, somewhat weaker
than those of No. 1,

No. 3.—Only pretty well-grown heads, very irregular, some
of the stools having as many as eight or ten, but all very
weak. One stool died after growing two heads,

Third Year.—No. 1.—Magnificent growths, the heads
measuring on April 10 from 2 in. to 32 in. in circum-
ference.

No. 2.—Growth passable only, but very irregular. Some
of the stools are very small. The finest of them produced
heads which from April 8 to 10 only measured 24 in. in
circumference.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 55

No. 3.—Growth very poor and very irregular. Some of
the stools continue to produce small heads not much thicker
than a quill pen, the largest being from 14 in. to 2 in. in
circumference.

Fourth Year.-—No, 1.—Growth very remarkable. The heads
began to show on April 3, 4, 5, 7, and 10. Some are from
3} in. to 4 in. in circumference, and measure 43 in. Fifty
Cr ib) heads form a bundle which weighed 3200 grammes
7 Ib.).

No. 2.—Growth passable, but later than No. 1. The heads
made their first appearance on April 6,10, and 11. Many
of them were very small ; fifty of them barely made half a
bundle, and only weighed 1700 grammes (32 lb.).

No, 3.—Growth but poor, and somewhat late. The heads
made their appearance on April 4, 6, 9, and 11; one did
not show till the 22nd. Fifty heads barely formed half a
bundle, and only weighed 1150 grammes (23 lb.). To sum
up it is clear that the plants of a year old in their fourth
season, that is to say, after having been planted out for
three years, gave a bundle weighing 3200 grammes (7 Ib.),
while those of two years old only gave 1700 grammes (32 Thy
and those of three years old only 1150 grammes (23 Ib.) ; in
other words, taking round numbers, the plantation made
with the one-year-old plants produced double the crop of
the two-year-old plants, and treble that of the three-year-old
plants. The reader may easily draw his conclusions from
the preceding facts.

Sowing in the Open Ground.—Some authors advo-
cate and many persons still adhere to the old-fashioned method
of sowing Asparagus in the open ground instead of planting
out the stools as already directed. This method of cultiva-
tion is defective for two reasons: first, because if all the
seeds do not come up we must begin our work all over again,
which will not only retard the crop of the year and make the
plantation irregular; and secondly, every plant, whether
good or bad, must be kept in the place where it was sown.

56 ASPARAGUS CULTURE

Again if two or three seeds come up side by side it is very
difficult to thin them out, there generally being two left
behind which give rise to a couple of stools, which will cer-
tainly interfere with each other’s growth, and will only yield
a poor and uncertain crop. By adopting the transplantation
system we need only use the choicest plants we can get,
which is after all the easiest and cheapest way of obtaining
fine and profitable crops. The difference between a planta-
tion formed from seed and one made by transplanting the
stools is very great, and is so much in favour of the modern
system that it can be only ignorance of the results obtained
by it that can account for the old-fashioned method being
adopted. We have seen even at Argenteuil plantations formed
from seed, but with all the care that it is possible to bestow
on them they produce exceedingly irregular crops, so much
so that they yield less than half the quantity given by the °
planted beds. The defects of the old system are so apparent
that we need not have recourse to any facts in proof of
them.

Utility of Harthing up.—We have often been asked to
explain the part played by the mounds of earth beneath
which the stools are buried at a certain time of the year
Earthing up allows us to plant the Asparagus stool less deeply,
so that it has all the benefit of the manure, the rains, and the
spring sun. It also allows us to shelter the heads from the
influence of the atmosphere and the light, so that they do
not turn green and hard, but remain white and tender, besides
growing much longer. Another advantage gained by earthing
up is to prevent all danger from the late spring frosts, the
young shoots being so well covered up that they experience
no injury. In certain localities people have not yet learned
to distinguish the difference between blanched and green, and
many affect to prefer the latter. This vulgar error cannot be
too quickly extirpated in the interests of all true lovers of
this delicious vegetable. In the case of the green Asparagus
it is only the tip of the shoot that is eatable, whereas the
blanched Asparagus can be nearly all eaten, besides which it

ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

is infinitely superior in point of tenderness and flavour.
Asparagus which is green at the moment of gathering should
only be used as a garnishing for Peas. No one with any
pretentions to good taste would serve up green Asparagus to
table. In the Paris market green Asparagus only fetches
1 franc a bundle (9°6d.), while the blanched vegetable fetches
3 francs (2s. 4°8d.). The green Asparagus is never eaten in
Paris, but is used for making syrup of Asparagus and other
pharmaceutical preparations.

Toe AsparRacus GRrowsr’s CALENDAR.

January.

Culture in the Open Ground.—Finish_manuring the
trenches which have not received their proper share earlier in
the season, and level (he mounds Prepare the ground for
fresh plantations in the spring, and finish the hoeings and
diggings in those places where the trenches are to be opened
at the end of the month.

Forcing in the.Open Ground,—The beds of the first
season are nearly exhausted by this time; we must therefore
prepare others, so that we may have Asparagus in January,
February, and beginning of March. On days when the sun
shines we must uncover the frames; if the weather is cold
increase the quantity of stable manure, and, if necessary, put
some inside the frames.

Forcing in Heat.—Make new beds for Asparagus to be
gathered at the end of January and the beginning of Feb-
ruary.

February.

Open Ground.—Begin planting in dry situations, and
open up trenches in moist ones, so as to expose the soil to the
action of the air. Manure those soils which have become
poor with well-rotted stable manure, artificial manure, ashes,
composts, é&c., and replace the soil dug out before the winter
sets in.

58 ASPARAGUS CULTURE,

Forcing in the Open Ground,—Continue the work of
the preceding month, and begin gathering the second batch
of forced Asparagus if you have not already begun to do so in
January.

Forcing in Heat,—Keep warm those beds intended to
yield at the end of February and the beginning of March.

March.

Open Ground.—Continue planting in e-
ginning only at_the end of the month in damp soils Begin
to earth up at the end of the month those heads which show
signs of appearing. Earth up in the trenches to a depth of
2 in. or 3 in. if you have not done soin February. Begin

cutting the e: es.

Frames in the Open Ground,—Take away the frames
and stable manure towards the end of March. Empty the
trenches and fill them with soil.

Forcing in Heat.—Towards the end of the month break
up the beds, the open-air culture taking the part of forcing
in heat.

April.

Finish planting and earth up those stools which have been
left open during the preceding month. Continue to gather,
hoe and weed the beds and the mounds. Keep a sharp look-
out for the Crioceris and other insects. Destroy snails and
slugs, both of which are particularly fond of the young heads
just at the moment when they show their tips above the sur-
face of the earth.

May.

Continue to gather, hoe and weed the beds and mounds.
Wage incessant war against the Asparagus beetle and other
enemies of the plant. In young plantations especially keep a
sharp look-out for the cockchafer grub. Sticks are placed at the
foot of the stems of the young plants to which they are tied
with rush or bast; or else they are left unearthed, which is

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 59

quicker and easier when Asparagus is grown on a large scale.
If the season is dry, from 2 in. to 3 in. of soil is placed above
the stools planted in the spring, so as to keep them fresh,
When once they have begun to show any heads above the
ground, the stools may be covered to the depth of 6 in. with-
out harming them.

June.

Discontinue gathering about the 10th of the month, or
even earlier. We must cease gathering in those planta-
tions which show signs of weakness, as well as those in
which very early varieties have been planted, according to
the season, A falling off in the thickness and length of the
heads is a sure sign that the plantation wants repose. Con-
tinue to hoe. Let the young shoots be attached to training
sticks, as directed in the preceding months. A sharp eye
must be kept on the enemies of the Asparagus grower, the
mole, the Asparagus beetle, and the cockchafer grub.

July.

This is the period at which the Asparagus beetle lays its
second batch of eggs. This insect must therefore be well
looked after, whether in the beetle or larve stage, or in
the ege. War must also still be waged on the white worm.
Hoe and weed where necessary. Young plantations in
gardens in very light and dry soil must be watered, if the
weather is very dry and hot, at least every fortnight, if possible.
Young shoots should be tied to training sticks.

August.

Insects and other pests must be hunted down. The trenches
and mounds must be hoed and weeded if necessary, and the
taller shoots of the plants supported by sticks, so that the
wind may not break them down. This is only necessary in
situations which are exposed to high winds; in sheltered
positions it is unnecessary.

60 ASPARAGUS CULTURE

September.

The work to be done during this month is very small
When Asparagus is planted in vineyards the work is limited
to tying the long overgrown shoots to training sticks to keep
the wind from blowing them down, or to prevent them from
keeping the sun and air from the Grapes, and so prevent-
ing them from ripening. Weeding and hoeing operations
are carried on if necessary weather permitting. At this
period of the year the young plantations are usually free from
the attacks of their usual enemies. At the beginning of the
month, however, a sharp look-out should be kept for any
straggling beetles or white worms. ,

October

Tn light and dry situations we may begin planting, but only
in warm localities. In the d

‘J
@ fortiori throughout the whole of England, it is better to
wait for the spring. We should also towards the close of the
onth-cut- down the old heals and begin to unearth, dressing
heavily with well-rotted stable manure, artificial manure, oil
cake, wood ashes, compost, &c. Damp soils are drained if they
are intended for spring planting. Mixed mould, manures,
and composts should be prepared for use in the coming
spring, and a good supply of young plants should be secured
beforehand.
November.

We now begin to force Asparagus in the open ground and in
heat. The stems of the plants above ground are cut down to
the height of 12 in., and then tied up in bundles for burning.
The mounds are dug up and lowered, so that manure maybe
brought within reach of the roots. We continue planting
during the first fifteen days of this month in dry lands. In
the south of France we may plant during the whole of the
winter. Unearthing is also continued, as well as manuring.
The ground may also be prepared for the spring plantations,
Borders and mounds and trenches are prepared for forcing.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 61

December

The work indicated in the month of November is con-
tinued, and unearthing and manuring are discontinued. Com-
posts and manures are prepared for spring plantations and
good plants are secured, if that has not been done already.
Fresh manure should be added to those beds in the open
ground where forced Asparagus is being grown, if the weather
is excessively cold. Hotbeds are examined and, where neces-
sary, fresh ones are made,

EssentTiaL Points In THE PRopvoTIon or Goop
ASPARAGUS.

Although the details of the system of growing good
Asparagus require some little space to describe on paper,
the essential differences between that and the system com-
monly employed in England are so very clear that they
may be shortly stated. Each plant is treated as an in-
dividual—as a vigorous subject requiring much space in
which to grow, if strong growth and strong shoots are
desired. Long experience has taught cultivators that
smaller space than 4 ft. apart will not suffice to give the
very best result. At first sight people in this country
might suppose that this means a waste of ground, but it
really is not so. At first, when the plantation is young,
waste of ground is avoided by taking a light crop off be-
tween the lines—say one of Kidney Beans or of early
Potatoes ; but after a good year’s growth, and when the
Asparagus gets strong, its roots really oceupy the whole
space, and the result is so much more satisfactory than in
the common way, that the ground affords a better and more
satisfactory return, There are two principal ways of growing
this crop—one, devoting a certain portion of ground to it,
as usual with us; the other, alternating plants between
Vines or small fruits, or placing a plant wherever there is
room for one. This last way is important, because it may
be carried out in small gardens everywhere, and by its
means we should become more readily convinced of the

62 ASPARAGUS OULTURE.

value of giving plenty of room. Single plants here and
there in the open spaces between bushes, fruits, or dwarf
pyramidal Apple or Pear trees, or single lines, wherever
room can be found for them, would, from the sufficient space
allowed to each plant, soon convince all of the value of the
system.

Planting.—Healthy yearling plants are always chosen,
and they are planted about the time, ora little before the time,
when growth commences in spring. They are invariably
planted in a shallow trench, somewhat like a Celery trench
—not quite so deep and not manured as that is, supposing
that the ground is in fair condition. In a trench about
8 in. deep the plants are placed on little low hillocks, and
they are carefully attended to for the first year. The plants,
be it noted, are 4 ft. apart in the line, and 4 ft. apart in the
trench, It will be noticed that the second essential differ-
ence between the common way—that in use with us—and
the way it is now desired to make known, is, that in garden
soil of fair quality no manure is used at the time of plant-
ing. There are soils in which drainage and preparation
might be required ; but, assuming that the soil is as good as
garden soil generally is, no preparation whatever is given
beyond the opening of the trench and the planting of each
rout in a little fine surface soil; the great expense which
has been supposed to be necessary in the culture of this
plant is, at the commencement at all events, avoided. It is
when the plants begin to get strong and well established
that a little manure is applied. There is thus a great
economy in two things—in plants and in manure, which
under the usual system with us is used to the most wasteful
extent—so much so, indeed, as to seriously limit production
by causing alarm as to expense.

Staking.—A most important point is the regular staking
of the plants, the stakes being firmly placed clear of the
root and in a slanting position across the shoots of each
plant, to which they are loosely, but firmly tied, The stakes
are usually of barked Oak branches about 4 ft, long, and

ASPARAGUS OULTURE. 63

calculated to last some years, but, failing these, any Horn-
beam, Hazel, or stakes made from any other underwood
will do.

Blanching.—The question of blanching it, more or less,
is apart from. the question of cultivation, and people may
adopt the only true system of culture without blanching, if
such be their taste. But a closer acquaintance with the
subject will probably teach many that there is something in
this despised system of blanching, which so many persuns,
lamentably ignorant on the subject beyond experiences of
their own overcrowded and ill-grown beds, rush into the
gardening papers to declare it to be an absurd practice. All
good judges and good growers know that it is necessary in the
highest culture, and to secure the most delicate flavour, and
also to prevent the rising shoots breaking in warm weather
into scales or leaves before they are fairly developed. The
best foreign Asparagus is blauched by piling little mounds
of friable earth over the stools in spring.

Home Culture.—Our markets are full of Asparagus in
spring, grown in other countries, sometimes hundreds of miles
from Loudon. It isa veyetable which perhaps more than any
other loses quality every day afteritiscut. This is-one reason
why it should be grown in our own country. The soil and
the climate of England, in almost every county, are admirably
suited for the production of Asparagus. Nevertheless, not
only do we not supply our own markets, but many possess-
ing estates cannot get a good dish without sending to Covent
Garden for it. All this is wholly unnecessary, for every
farmer’s garden and every cottage garden might grow it well.
In large places, where a few beds formed on a costly and
wrong principle now furnish a very limited supply of very
poor Asparagus, there ought to be an abundance for every-
body. Our markets ought to be supplied by our own
people, the early supplies coming from the south and the
late ones from our northern counties.

Forcing Asparagus.—In order to force Asparagus to
produce a crop early enough to be quite out of season, it

64 ASPARAGUS OULTURE,

may be grown either in the open ground or in heat. If for
ordinary cultivation we ought to select the best varieties to
be obtained, we ought to be still more careful in choosing
our plants when we are going to force them. The strongest
and healthiest-looking plants should be chosen for this pur-
pose.

Forcing in the Open Ground.—Beds are prepared in
the ordinary way of 3} ft. in width with a distance between
them of from 2 ft. 2 in. to 2 ft. 4 in., the stools being planted
about 1 ft. 1 in. apart in every direction, so that there are
three longitudinal rows of plants in each bed, the outer rows
being about 64 in. from the edge of the bed. The same care
is bestowed on these plantations as on others, and when the
third winter comes, we may begin to force the Asparagus
planted in this manner. For this purpose, towards the end
of October or the beginning of November, we dig out
the soil forming the pathways between the beds to the depth
of about 1 ft. 8 in, the trench itself being about 2 ft. 4 in.
in width. In digging out these trenches we throw out suffi-
cient soil to cover the stools to the depth of about 1 ft, in
order that the forced heads may be of a good length, and
may remain white. This done, we fill up the trenches with
good fresh stable manure, beating it down evenly, after which
we cover the beds with as many frames, with their accom.
panying lights, as they will hold to keep up the heat of the
beds. The frames should be about 6 in. or 7 in. apart. If
we place any stable manure inside the frames, it must be
taken out fifteen days after it has been put in for reasons before
explained. Every evening towards sunset straw mats are
thrown over the frames to prevent chilling. If the cold is
persistent, or increases in severity, the straw mats should be
doubled, and if it be very intense we may even fill up the
spaces between the frames with warm stable litter, and do
the same with the trenches between the rows. Asparagus
treated in this fashion begins to show above the soil in from
twelve to fifteen days, according to the heat to which the
beds have been subjected. If the weather is very cold, they

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 65

will take a much longer time in making their appearance. In
the latter case we must redouble the precautions we have
taken to keep in the heat, heaping on stable manure with a
lavish hand, stopping up every nook and cranny in the frames
and preventing the snow from melting on them. By this
means we obtain perfectly white heads, but if we wish to have
them tinged with pink we must take off the straw mats when-
ever the sun is warm and clear, and we shall find that they
will be rapidly coloured by the action of the light. The heads
should be cut every other day, and the cutting may be kept
up for a couple of months. The following winter, the manure
surrounding the frames and in the trenches is taken away,
and the plantation is allowed to rest quiet until the second
winter, when the same operations may be gone through. We
may thus continue to force every other winter until the
quality and quantity of the Asparagus show signs of lower-
ing. In the spring which follows the winter during which
the forcing has taken place, we must, of course, refrain from
gathering, otherwise we shall endanger the future safety of
the beds. Forcing every other winter is as much as the
plants will bear. In order to be able to force every winter,
we should have two or four plantations, one or two of which
should be used for the purpose turn-and-turn-about. As each
bed ought only to be used for two months, a quadruple set is
advisable, so that we may be kept supplied during November,
December, January, and February.

Forcing in Heat.—The Asparagus grown in heat is
known as green Asparagus, and is eaten with white sauce or
as a garnishing with green Peas. This method of forcing is
carried on from the month of November until the month of
March, Each bed only yields for a month. A hotbed is
made in the usual way and is covered with 24 in. or 34 in. of
rotten manure, after which the frame and lights are placed in
position. When it has cooled down sufficiently, that is to
gay, in about eight or nine days, the stools are planted. The
plants chosen for forcing ought to be three years old, well
grown, and provided with a full allowance of roots, The

66 ASPARAGUS CULTURE

roots must be gathered together. and their extreme ends
clipped. The stools are then placed in the bed in such a
way that they may.touch and support each other. They are
so arranged that their heads are all level. Rotten manure is
then thrown in between the roots, leaving the eyes uncovered,
and the lights and frame are so arranged that the heads will
find sufficient room between the bed and the glass to grow to
their proper length without being bent. Under an ordinary
light we may thus plant four or five stools, each of which
will begin to yield at the end of ten days or a fortnight, and
will last a month. This mode of cultivation produces very
small and short Asparagus, and it does not possess the fine
flavour of the other kind. These beds want a good deal of
looking after to avoid all danger of chilling. Fresh manure
must be added immediately the heat begins to decrease. The
frames must be kept carefully closed, and the straw mats
must be taken away and replaced according to the state
of the’ weather. ‘This method of forcing, like the pre-
ceding, may be commenced in October and November, and
by using several sets of beds, may be carried on during
December, January, and February. Some growers have
attempted to force old Asparagus plants, but they soon had
to give it up, owing to its yielding such bad results. We are
consequently obliged to fall back on the young plants brought
up in the nursery for this special purpose; it is, in fact the
only way to obtain good and abundant crops.

Tue ENEMIES OF THE ASPARAGUS.

The principal enemies of the Asparagus are the Asparagus
beetle (Crioceris asparagi) and the white worm or grub of the
cockchafer.

Crioceris asparagi is a small beetle, long in the body,
and of a red colour, speckled with grey and white spots. The
larve are somewhat cylindrical, narrower towards the head,
and are of a dirty olive-green colour, fleshy and shining. It
only lasts in the larva state for about ten days, but during that
time it commits the most formidable ravages. It deposits its

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 67

eggs on the tenderest parts of the Asparagus, which are
speedily attacked by the young larva as soon as it comes out
of the egg. These destructive insects will devour a whole
plantation in a brief space of time if their ravages are not
checked immediately they are perceived. Incessant war must
be made against both beetle and larva. If there are only a
few they may be crushed between the finger and thumb. They
must especially be looked for during bright sunshine, which
is the time they generally make their appearance. If they
are too many to be destroyed in this way, we must take a
bowl or other vessel full of water, and holding it under the
Asparagus, tap the stems lightly, so as to shake off the insects
into the water. As soon as they feel the blow their instinct
teaches them to imitate death and drop off the shoot. When
all have been caught the water may be thrown on the
ground and the insects crushed to death with the foot; or,
what is better still, the cold water should be strained off and
boiling water poured on them. The Asparagus beetle lays twice
a year—in the spring and in June or July.

The Mole.—The mole does not feed on the Asparagus
plant, but it damages the roots by displacing them in forming
its subterranean galleries, generally laying the roots bare by
lifting them above the soil. The presence of the mole is easily
discovered, and as soon as it is perceived, immediate measures
for its destruction must be taken. We must either use mole
traps, or else watch for its appearance hoe or spade in hand,
so as to dig it out the moment it is seen lifting the surface
of the soil.

The White Worm.—1ne waite worm or cockchafer grub
is one of the most dangerous enemies with which the gardener
has to deal. The warmer the weather the better its appetite.
3£ you see an Asparagus plant beginning to look withered
without any known or apparent cause, gently turn up the soil
at the foot of the stool, and the chances are that you will find
a cockchafer grub feeding on the tenderest parts of the root.
There is only one way to destroy it effectually, and that is

68 ASPARAGUS VULTURE

to dig for it and crush the life out of it with your foot. Lime,
sulphur, and other insect poisons have apparently no effect on
it. Some growers sow Lettuces, in order to attract the cock-
chafer grub from the Asparagus, but the remedy is worse
than the disease, for these pests flock into the Asparagus
plantations from all parts of the garden, and attack the Aspa-
ragus as well as the Lettuces.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE 69

APPENDIX.

PRIZES FOR ASPARAGUS.
Wirt a view to improve and extend the culture of Asparagus
throughout the United Kingdom, it is proposed to give a
series of annual prizes, extending over a period of seven years.
These prizes will be given in London, Edinburgh, Dublin, and
the north and west of England in consecutive years. They
are given with the object of having thoroughly tested in all
parts ef the country the plan adopted near Paris of planting
far apart, and without much extensive preparation. This
system may be carried out in the smallest gardens, in fields,
or fruit gardens, without the considerable preliminary expense
and preparation usually considered necessary for the forma-
tion of Asparagus beds. The competitors will, however, be
free to adopt whatever plan of culture they may think most
suitable to their soil and locality. It is, however, wholly
impossible to produce Asparagus of the first quality by the
crowded system of planting in use in private gardens through-
out the United Kingdom, and there is reason to believe that
much rich manure given before planting is not only needless,
but injurious. In the Paris system little or no manure is
given at the time of planting. The plants—one year’s
seedlings—are planted in shallow trenches, 3 to 4 ft. apart in
the line, and the lines about 4 ft. apart. There is no loss of
space under this system, as alight crop is taken off the ground
between the lines when the plants are young. In free, loamy
soils of fair quality many excellent growers make no prepara.
tion of the ground before planting. In England the plantings
may be best done in April and in May, according to locality.
Manure is not usually given till the plants are established, and
then only over the roots. Asparagus is also grown as single

70 ASPAR'GUS CULTURZ.

plants, and also in single rows. As large single plants it is
often grown in the Vineyards, or here and there among small
fruits, or in any open spots of ground. In these cases the
plants are of.en several yards apart, or sometimes quite
isolated. Equally suitable places are offered by our squares
of ground occupied with small fruits, not to speak of many
other positions. In single rows is also a good way, the plants
in this case beg 3 ft. apart. The first year’s prizes will be
competed for at the Bath and West of England Society’s show
at Tunbridge Wells in 1881. In the sixth and seventh years
of the series, viz., in 1886 and 1887, the competition will be
beld in London, and will be open to American, French, Dutch,
and all other Continental growers in addition to those in
Britain. An account of the mode of culture these prizes are
designed to encourage, with particulars as to places of meet-
ing, dates, &c., is in preparation for distribution, and
will be duly announced in the horticultural and agricultural
journals. The prizes are offered by Mr. W. Robinson.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 71

The following are notes from various correspondents concern-
ing the seven years’ prizes offered for improved Asparagus
culture :=—

That many of our notions about Asparagus culture are out
of date I have long been convinced, and I am of opinion that
all our efforts as respects improvement must lie in the direction
so clearly marked out in THE GaRDEN, and which should,
with thinking men, require no arguments to prove or enforce.
Ifany are dubious about this matter, let them plant half-a-
dozen plants 4 ft. apart each way, and watch the result. It is
some years now since my eyes were opened to the importance
of this by watching the growth ofa single Asparagus plant
that had sprung up from a chance seed in a shrubbery.
Asparagus isa moisture-loving plant, but the site must he
well drained; and I am told, although I have not seen it, that
it grows wild in the Lincolnshire fens. I should much like to
see the Argenteuil system tried on some of the sewage farms
where the soil is of a sandy character. Some of the drier
parts of the fens would make an excellent trial ground on a
large scale, in connection with other crops of early vegetables
that might be cleared off and marketed before the time the
Asparagus growth filled all the space, which would be in July.
The plough should then be introduced to stir the surface
freely, and be followed by frequent soakings of sewage. To
have fine produce the stems must be strong and tall, to nurse
and develop the future crowns; and therefore I think it is
during the growing period, after the cutting is finished, that
liquid manure, or even water itself, would do so much good.
But in a thickly-planted bed, no matter how deep or rich the
soil may be, there is not room for the growth to expand
sufficiently to develop a thicket of sturdy and vigorous crowns.

Ramsey Abbey, Hunts. E. Hoppay.

72 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

— = Incertain soils the Argenteuil system is open to objee-
tion, it being inapplicable to districts where clay, heavy marl,
or other compact soils prevail; and such soils extend far and
wide over England. Asparagus growers in such localities have
found by long experience that, in order to obtain a successful
result, it is necessary to prepare special composts, and to raise
beds above the general level of the ground, so as to keep the
roots from penetrating into the cold subsoil, and to secure the
increased warmth such elevated beds afford. Asparagus roots
will travel 3 £6. beneath the soil, and, reaching clay, they soon
decay or fail to act beneficially. The best examples of Aspara-
gusI meet with amongst cottagers and amateurs, where no
special care is taken in the preparation of beds, is invariably
in districts like Lincolnshire where the soil is light and deep,
much of it gravelly sand or light loam resting on gravel.
After trying the several plans of surface cultivation, the raised
flat-topped beds, and the simple ridge raised from a 3-ft. base,
and planted with one row of plants, I have proved that for the
soil I have to manage (a modified clay) the last-named is far
the best plan. It occurs to me also that as your prizes are
offered for the largest heads of Asparagus, and not for the
amount of produce over a given surface of land, they will
reach those who can afford the most space and manure, or
will be confined to localities enjoying natural advantages.
Could you not restrict the extent of ground, or the number of
plants, and make a distinction between Asparagus grown in
favourable and unfavourable localities? The economical pro-
duction of every vegetable should always be made a considera.
tion.

Belvoir Castle Gardens, Grantham. W. Ineram.

[What is here proposed is desirable, but cannot be carried
out. We must do what is best in the interest ofall. Suit-
able soils occur in many localities in every county. Few would
expect to produce the best result on unsuitable soils. We have
seen good results from the adoption of the thin-planting way

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 73

on the stiffest and deepest clays in England, though we should
not advise anyone to compete for prizes under such circum-
stances. But the object is to let people throughout the
country see that the wretched little spindly shoots grown in
many gardens has nothing in common with good Asparagus.
This once clear no one will be satisfied with the present mode
of culture.—Ep.]

— Arich, deep, friable, sandy loam is doubtless the best
soil in which to plant Asparagus, and when this is in a high
state of culture manure, at the time of planting, is unnecessary.
I look upon surface manuring with far more favour than the
more general method of working in so much raw manure at
the time of planting, an idea which has done much to deter
the public from attempting Asparagus culture so fully as its
merits deserve, except in the gardens of the rich, Any
ordinary soil, with but little care as regards culture, will pro-
ducegood Asparagus. Doubtless soils and situation, &., have
much to do with its perfect success; still, our system of
cultivation is much at fault.

Witley Court, Stourport. Gro. WESTLAND.

—- With the view of improving Asparagus culture in this
country, I am of opinion that planting should not be done till
May at the earliest. March is decidedly too early in this
country, and April, too, in many places. Great blanks would
be certain to occur in the beds; and, as by the Argentenil
system very wide planting is recommended, the loss of ground
would be great. Certainly, if no preparation of the ground
be required at the beginning, it would be a great saving of time
and money compared with the old plan, as deep tilth and
plenty of manure have always been considered indispensable
from the beginning.

Wortley Hall, near Sheffield. J. Smmpson.

14 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

— The cultivation of Asparagus is a subject to which
considerable attention has been devoted in various parts of
the kingdom, but, so far as I am aware, always upon the
thickly-planted system, whether grown in beds or in limes.
The results in the majority of instances are, therefore, the
reverse of satisfactory, considering the great expense incurred
in the shape of labour and manure in making a plantation. I
have already planted some on the principle advocated in THE
GarpEn—that is, single plants or stools amongst lines of
Gooseberry bushes. I added no manure, but I intend giving
heavy top-dressings. My reason for doing so was to let the
sun and air in about the plants, to see if I could get them to
stand the winter better, as we suffer badly here from their
sotting off at the collar during that period. I have tried
many plans to prevent this; wide planting in unprepared
ground is the last, and I hope it may prove successful,

M. D.

—— With regard to the cultivation of Asparagus, I have
not the least doubt that the system which you wish to intro-
duce is the best for obtaining large specimens, but I fear it
would not answer in the case of market gardeners who have to
pay high rents for their land. I consider that my success is
partly owing to thin planting compared with that of my
neighbours. Last week I paid a visit to a neighbour here
who had planted some fresh beds, and who had got three
rows in 2 ft. of space, which, of course, is too much crowded.
It may answer his purpose for a time, but the beds will soon
wear out. I shall plant a few single rows in two different
gardens and soils in the manner which you suggest. In
America they often grow Asparagus in single rows, but of
course land there is much cheaper than here. I have always
thought that our plan of growing Asparagus was both trouble-
some and expensive, and, to avoid the facing or earthing up
the sides every year, I plantcd two beds about 18 in. below the
surface, so that now 1 have nothing to do but just fork them.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 75

I get as many heads in number, but they are not nearly so
large, although they have just the same manure as the others.
There is also another objection, and that is the cutting, which
is a very back-aching job, as both hands must be down on the
ground at once. I have not the least doubt that very good
Asparagus will be the result of the prizes offered.

St. Peter’s-street, Colchester. A. J. Harwoop.

-—— I have grown Asparagus on the Argenteuil system for
several years, and, although I grow it on both systems—that is,
in beds and single lines—I consider that that cut from the
latter is the strongest and best. I always plant one-year-old
seedlings, never older. I leave 4 ft. between the rows and
2 ft. plant from plant, but I think that 3 ft. between them
would be better, a distance that I am now trying. As our
soil is stony and naturally poor we trench the ground, incorpo-
rating with it at the same time some manure or good loam;
we plant in April. As to after treatment, when the plants are
established, we apply manure over the roots in autumn and a
dressing of salt in spring, when the plants are in active
growth, and in dry seasons we give them occasional waterings
with liquid manure from a farmyard tank; last, but not least,
we have to take great care to support them against wind-
waving and breakage, which we do by running a line attached
to stakes at proper distances up one side and down the other.
This keeps the stems secure.

Bloxholm Hall, Sleaford. D. LumspeEn.

—— I like your proposition with regard to the improvement
of the culture of Asparagus ; there is great room for it, as the
majority of gardeners are content to follow in the footsteps of
their forefathers, and adhere to the old bed-and-alley system.
I have long been of opinion that that system is not calculated
to realise the most profitable results, but my aspirations have
not gone beyond single rows 3 ft. apart and the plants 18 in.

76 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

asunder, a plan under which a marked improvement on the
old bed system is observable in the size and quality of the
heads. It appears to me that the Argenteuil system which you
insist upon differs from this only in the greater distance
between both plants and rows. As I have not access to any
description of the Argenteuil system, I presume the manure is
applied annually by way of surface dressing, and is not pricked
in, but allowed to decay, so that eventually it will form a
superstratum of decayed manurial matter of a considerable
depth, through which the young heads appear in due season.
Results which are, however, perfectly easy to attain in some
localities cannot be obtained in others, with double the labour
and expense, owing principally to sub-soil and situation.
Redleaf. Joun Cox.

— Your proposals respecting the culture of Asparagus, of
which I much approve, touch one of those cultural points in
which I feel myself very deficient, having never got out of the
rut of the old thick-set bed system, which gives quantity, but
not quality. The only suggestions I have to make to your
printed remarks are, that you might mention the depth of the

. trenches, and also whether or not there is any variety more
suitable than another for this mode of culture. I happen to
have two rows of one year’s seedlings of Connover’s Colossal,
and those I have planted out in shallow trenches 3 ft. by 4 ft.,
as you suggest. I have no experience of this variety, and
would rather it had been the Giant or Battersea. Your offer
of prizes will do much good towards the improvement of
Asparagus culture—more so, perbaps, amongst private growers
than in market gardens around London and the Vale of
Evesham, where it is grown pretty well. (

Combe Abbey, near Coventry. W. Miter.

— Your plan of making the growth of Asparagus more
popular is a very good one, and likely to answer the purpose
intended; in truth, there is a great deal of ignorance displayed

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. G7

in the cultivation of that vegetable. It is a very common
thing, particularly in private gardens, to pile up a great ridge
of earth and plant three rows of two-year-old roots on the top
of it, thinking that that is the right mode of culture, forgetting
that in a few years they will have to pile up more and more,
because all those plants which form a number of crowns keep
getting to the surface. I believe that growing Asparagus in
single roots, about 3 ft. by 4 ft., is the best for many reasons,
and one is that it will apparently last for many years if well
atterided to. Ido not agree with some that it is a waste of
manure to give it a good supply at the time of starting, and I
also think the ground can be too good. The seed should
certainly, however, be sown on a piece of the best land, as the
stronger the young one-year-old plants are the better. They
should not be more than from 4 in. to 6 in. from plant to plant,
By this means one gets good strong plants, which will have a
good start.
Little Sutton. Francis N. DANCER.

The prizes offered for Asparagus grown on the Argen-
teuil system will give a great lift for the better cultivation of
that delicious vegetable. At present the greatest bulks of it is
grown in beds where the roots are huddled together, and
where it is not possible for them to spread so as to produce
large heads. I particularly observed a single plant of Con-
nover’s Colossal that I planted in the garden here, and which,
by keeping it well staked from the time it was a year old till
four years, produced very large heads, like the best French-
grown Asparagus. The soil was rather stiff, and no extra depth
was given it, but well-rotted manure was put on the plant
every winter. Since my experience with this plant, I planted in
1876 some in rows 4 ft. apart, and 2 ft. between each plant, and
I expect to cut good heads in 1879. Iam not an advocate for
cutting blanched Asparagus with only the tips green, but it is
the fashionable way of eating it at present.
Welbeck, W. Trnieky.

78 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

—~ [have for many years been of opinion that people poison
their Asparagus with manure, and many people will not grow
it on account of the supposed expense attending its produc-
tion. I quite agree with the distances apart, plant from plant
and row from row, given in THE GARDEN, and think it high
time that cultivators and others did away with the fallacy that
Asparagus requires any more attention than a plot of Cab-
bages or Broccoli. Periodical saltings and annual diggings
of deep trenches between the beds do no good. The principal
thing to be observed in growing Asparagus on the Argenteuil
system is the preparation of the ground. Asparagus being a
permanent crop, the ground should be dug or trenched at least
2 ft. deep, and never moved with the spade when in a wet or
unfriable condition. Of course, in alluvial or sandy light soils
the trenching just spoken of may be dispensed with, but
depend upon it in about three parts of the soils of great
Britain a preliminary trenching will ensure success. I have
tried Connover’s Colossal and find it only the ordinary form of
Asparagus when treated under the usual conditions. I have
no doubt that larger kinds than any yet grown may be pro-
duced, by means of selection, in localities where the plant
grows best. I have noticed that Asparagus grown on the
oolite in Northamptonshire is very green, and the tops
not over large, but delicious in flavour. Some years ago, when
living at Burton-on-Trent, some Asparagus sowed itself
adjoining the kitchen garden in a piece of waste ground of
a gravelly alluvial character, and this came much larger and
finer than the same kind under cultivation buried 6 in. deep in
strong pig manure. Ever since then (twenty years ago) I have
seen the disadvantage of using so much manure. I do not
agree with disturbing the surface Asparagus beds any more
than is sufficient to ensure the destruction of weeds. All
clayey soils should be trenched, preparatory to planting, but
this may not be always necessary in the case of light ones.

Stapleford Hall, Notts. W. ELuiorr.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 79

— There are few places inland that can compare with the
soil at Argenteuil; besides, the land about Argenteuil is full
of Paris night soil before the Asparagus is planted. The same
system is practised by Dutch bulb growers. They work into
the ground green cow manure to an extent unknown for any
crop in England, and first take Potatoes off it. Moreover,
there is no soil that I know of in the three kingdoms so light
and easy to work as that of Argenteuil. Asparagus is a gross
and deep feeder, and can scarcely be too strongly manured.
It also likes black, rotten, sea sand. Oné of the Messrs.
Dicksons, of Chester, grows it of very superior quality; but
it is grown on one of the reclaimed farms from the estuary of
the Dee, in salt sand. It also succeeds, under similar circum-
stances, in the Lothians; and, indeed, any sea-coast place
should produce good Asparagus. I cannot help, while upon
this subject, expressing great regret that a vegetable so very
wholesome and easily obtained should be so completely ignored
in cottagers’ gardens. A good bed will continue to bear fairly
well for fifty years with a little help. If we consider the
quantity generally got from even a small amount of ground,
say during some six weeks of the year, no other crop of any
sort can compare with it. Surely cottagers now-a-days want
something else besides Cabbages and Potatoes P

Cliveden. J. FLEMING.

[There are many places in England where soils exist
quite as well suited to the culture of Asparagus as those
of Argenteuil. We also know, from careful examination of the
mode of planting at Argenteuil, that there is nothing what-
ever in common between it and the Dutch mode of planting
bulbs ; the fact is, that many of the best growers use no manure
at planting time. The bulb ground is, on the other hand,
lightly enriched. In this connection we may refer the reader
to the preceding statements of Mr. Tillery and Mr. Elliott, that
chance Asparagus, in waste or unprepared places, did much
better than that sown in carefully prepared beds.]

6

80 ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

FRENCH ASPARAGUS.

Wr reference to the common error that “only 1 in. of each-
piece of the French Asparagus can be eaten,” it is necessary
to repeat that long experience shows that when French
Asparagus is good, fresh, and properly cooked, from 3 in. to
5 in. of the shoot are perfectly edible—and even a greater
length than that. Unfortunately, most of the so-called French
Asparagus is both stale and tough, from the fact that it is
gathered long before it reaches the consumer in London. It
does not come solely from Argenteuil, near Paris, where it is
so well grown, but also from greater distances. We have lately
been trying some samples from Toulouse and Madrid, from
both of which places great quantities lately came to the London
markets. Although good in appearance, their flavour was far
from pleasant or natural. Asparagus very quickly spoils when
exposed to the air, and one may judge what it must be after
being collected in the Madrid market, sent all the way to
London, transferred from the wholesale to the retail dealer
there, and finally having several days or a week’s airing ina
greengrocer’s window. We do not see why we should eat stale
and stringy, if large, Asparagus from Madrid if we can have
it both large and fresh in this country. This can be done, we
know, and we have offered the prizes for the encouragement of
the simplest and best mode of culture. Up to the present time
Asparagus has suffered in English gardens through seven to
twelve plants being usually placed where one ought to be, and
from the needless and costly practise of taking as nearly as
much trouble in making an Asparagus bed as in the founda.-
tions of a house. As to the question of Green v. White
Asparagus, that is quite apart from the mode of culture.
Those who do not like it blanched have merely to cease
blanching it. Our own idra ig that Asparagus for eating at

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 81

table (not that used in cookery) is in its most perfect state
when blanched, as at Argenteuil, and also to a slightly less
extent in the market gardens round London. The shoots are
gathered when about an inch of the top peeps above the little
mounds of earth covering each root. In this way the upper
portion of each shoot is of a pinkish colour, and the flavour,
when fresh, most delicate. This is not our opinion only, but
that of good judges who have tried it in all forms in France
as well as in England,

4

NOTE ON BLANCHING.

This question is really not an open one at all. When we
are told of hard sticks with an inch of green at the top, etc,
then one’s patience fails in presence of the facts which are
easily accessible to anyone who takes the trouble to look for
them. Throughout the whole of Continental Europe this
vegetable in its best state is blanched, but perfectly edible to
as great a length as anyone cares to go. In cooking, the tips
are left one inch out of the water while the thicker stem is
softened. The perfect cookery of this vegetable is common
everywhere abroad. Go into the best house in Covent Garden
and ask a good judge for the best flavoured Asparagus that
can be bought, and he will furnish you with what is all
blanched, save a purplish tip. The man would choose the
same for his own table. Such stuff as is now grown in the
majority of our gardens, if sent by chance to any market, is
sold with difficulty, and if sold at all, is cut up for soup or
the like. It would take pages to refute the fallacies that have
been written against blanching, but this much may be said
here, that the French would not supply the markets of Europe
with the best ‘Grass’ if they did not blanch. More green
‘Grass’ comes from France than England to the Loudon
market, but it always falls into the second quality as compared
with the blanched Asparagus from Argenteuil. There is not a
flavour or a phase of the matter which has not been thoroughly
studied by the people who grow the best Asparagus near
Paris, and they have as good reason to blanch their Asparagus
as they have to leave their Spinach green.

82 ASPARAGUS CULTURE,

FINE ASPARAGUS AT GUNTON PARK.

I HAVE sent you fifty heads of Asparagus grown on the French
system, as described in the “ Parks and Gardens of Paris.”
The fifty heads weigh about 7 Ib. When I came to Gunton in
1867, I found the Asparagus beds all on the old system—4 ft.
wide, and the produce of the poorest description. Notwith-
standing heavy manuring and salting, it improved but very
little. The soil is a sandy loam, resting on wet sand, and the
drainage sluggish, owing to the gardens being flat and low.
In 1839, having read the chapter on Asparagus culture, I
concluded that the plan was the right one, and at once planted
seven rows, 102 ft. long. When three years old the beds had
done so well that I began cutting freely, and the following
winter I lifted the whole of the old beds and forced the plants,
and since that time we have grown no Asparagus, except in
what I may call the new style. Four yearsago I made another
plantation, 114 ft. by 30 ft., and now we always have an abun-
dance of excellent Asparagus. TI, like Mr. Fish, thought when
we had our old beds that our soil was not suitable for Aspara-
gus culture ; and even now I believe that there are soils much
better adapted for the purpose. But what to me proves so
conclusively that the French method is the best is the fact
that my present beds were raised from seeds saved from the
old plants. In saving the seed I always, however, selected it
from the plants that threw up the strongest stems, and before
planting I allowed the young plants to grow a few inches, in
order that I might select those with the fewest and strongest
shoots, as I always find that a plant which, in its young state,
throws up a quantity of small young shoots, maintains that
habit in succeeding years, A plant of the above description
will increase in size rapidly, but will continue to throw up a
cloud of small spray, and never by any chance a vigorous
shoot. I sowed last year a packet of Connover’s Colossal,
and have this season planted out two rows, each 102 *t. long

ASPARAGUS CULTURE. &3

and 3 ft. apart in the rows, in order that I may be eligible for
your prizes. In my other beds the plants stand 24 ft. apart
in the rows, which are 4 ft. asunder. I have always thought
them rather too close, as at the end of the summer they
become a complete thicket. I found amongst Connover’s
Colossal just the same peculiarity as regards growth which I
have described in reference to plants raised from seed saved
here. Some of the one year’s seedlings of that kind produced
some six or seven small shoots, while others had two or three
sturdy ones characteristic of the plant. Ialways maintain that
to this matter of selection too much attention cannot be given,
if fine Asparagus be the object in view. It may be thought that
I allow the Asparagus to get tco far through the ground
before it is cut, but we like a little more green than the
French, as a rule, allow.
Gunton Park, Norwich. W. ALLAN.

[With the above communication came fifty heads of the
best Asparagus which we have yet seen grown in England.
This Asparagus was blanched for a considerable distance up
the stem, but not quite so much as the French samples, there
being, on an average, about lin. more green. There was,
however, such a great length of blanched stem, that the
Gunton Park samples may serve to throw considerable light
on the question of blanched v. green Asparagus. The portions
cooked were about 7 in. long, and each was edible to its base.
For 14 in. of the lower part of the 7 in., where the outer
skin was tough, the interior was quite tender and perceptibly
of a more delicate flavour than that of the upper part. The
flavour of the whole was excellent, and the samples well
served to show how delicate large and well-grown blanched
Asparagus is when cooked fresh. The heads were not so large as
the enormous “ giant” specimens seen in Covent Garden; but
these large heads are often hollow, and sometimes “ monsters,”
owing to two stems growing together. Mr. Allan’s observation
about the different growths of the seedlings is a very in-

84

Specimen of Aspareaus
grown at Gunton Park.

(Tip of shoot.)

ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

teresting one. We would recommend
his trying the early and late varieties,
so much in favour with the Argenteuil
growers, and testing their relative value
in England. As regards the blanching,
it may be noted that it is only a ques-
tion of degree between the French and
English growers. All good Asparagus
that we have seen in either the Paris or
London markets is blanched, the best
English market-growers’ produce being
simply blanched 1 in. shorter than that
ofthe French. We believe that there is
good reason for this blanching, and that
it is not, as many suppose, a mere mat-
ter of fashion. It may be remarked that
in all well-grown Asparagus, as soon as
a shoot gets into the free air, the scales
begin to unfold and the head to open
out, which, of course, must be avoided,
even if flavour be not considered. Speci-
mens such as those from Gunton Park,
with a small portion of the top green,
and with 4 in. or 5 in. below that white
and perfectly tender, are the most deli-
cate in flavour of all. No distinction
can be drawn between these and speci-
mens from the best French growers, in
which the head is not allowed to show
more than 1 in. above ground before
gathering, and which have also from 4 in.
to 6 in. of tender blanched shoot below
the pinkish or green apex. It may be
noted here that Dutch Asparagus is
often blanched to a much greater degree
than the French.—Ep.]

Sg DE RERAS

GEE.