PRINCIPLES

OF
Doc TRAINING

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PRINCIPLES

DOG TRAINING

ORIGINALLY

*DOG PATHS TO SUCCESS”

BY

W. C. PERCY (“Kir Kitiprrp’’)

CAREFULLY REVISED AND EXTENDED
BY

“ ASHMONT”

BOSTON
J. LORING THAYER
1886

Tlspwee Vel, | ett ta, f

no. S34 iG
CopyricHt, 1886,
By J. Frank Perry, M.D.

eNO
ine 4
«a

ELECTROTYPED BY

C. J. Peters anp Son, Boston.

PREFACE.

Tur basis of this handbook is “Dog Paths to Suc-
cess,” a work on dog training, which appeared a few
years since, from the pen of Mr. W. C. Percy, well
known to American sportsmen as “I<it [illbird.”
The merits of the book found immediate recognition,
and a rapid sale of the entire edition followed.
Appreciating the great demand for it, which remained
unsupplied, the copyright was purchased by me from
the author. After a thorough revision of the text,
and with some important additions, the work, under a
new and more euphonious title, is now submitted to
the amateur dog trainer, for whom it is designed.
No inconsiderable portion of the first edition was
deemed extraneous, and therefore omitted. All its
practical points of importance have, however, been
given special prominence in these pages, and the sys-
tem of training herein advocated is distinctly the
saine as that presented by Mr. Percy in his original
work.

“ ASHMONT.”

Boston, November, 1886.
3

CONTENTS.

PAGE

CHAPTER I.—HOW TO HANDLE A DOG.

The qualities which are most essential in a trainer — The spike collar
a cruel instrument, which should never be used on young dogs —
The age at which the education of a pup may commence — Pre-
paratory measures, and the earliest etforts to instruct .

CHAPTER II.—FIRST LESSONS IN RETRIEVING.

A natural prompting, which is developed early — How to teach a pup
“to fetch’? —The importance of patience — A practice which
should be persisted in until the pupil is a year old or more —
Opportunities favorable for instruction . . . 1... .

CHAPTER III.— “HEED,” “HIE ON.”

At the age of four months the first actual lesson commences — How
he may soon learn to obey the commands to “ heed” and ‘hie
on’? — The check-cord, and bow it can be made useful — The man-
ner of teaching “to heel” a Wa A ee

CHAPTER IV.—‘ CHARGE.”

The lesson difficult at first, and it requires patience, firmness, and
continued practice— Calling a pup off his poiut— A disvipline
which tends to quicken ai Made and aes a pup under more
complete control . a oe . . cae

CHAPTER V.— VALUE OF VARIETY IN ROUTINE.

A form of instruction which teaches a pup to hunt with his head up
and on the wind— ‘The importance of yard-breaking — First les-
sons should not be delayed, as some advise, until a dog enters the
Bela: 265 sakees © Cote cide Siep 205 tate

CHAPTER VI.— SOUND OF THE GUN, POINTING
RABBITS, ETC.

How to teach a pup to love a gun—A conservative course recom-
mended — Accustom him to rabbits, cats, and fowls — Familiarize
him with all influences liable to prove distracting while being
trained —'‘Teach him to bear the restraint of a chain . .. .

5

11

19

23

27

6 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII. -TAKING THE PUP AFIELD.

Training in company — His first point — A check-cord occasionally of
much assistance — Give the pup at first undivided attention — An *
indication of great merit—The punishinent which he should
receive for disobedience in the field . Oe de Bey a ae. a BS

CHAPTER VIII.—THE USE OF THE WHIP.

The sphere of its usefulness a limited one —Resort to it only when
gentle means fail— Never call a dog to you and whip him, but
always.go to him — Neyer allow him to break shot . . . . . . 37

CHAPTER IX.—GUN-SHYNESS AND ITS CURE.

Physical and mental peculiarities are alike transmissible — Gun-shy-
ness may be an inherent defect, but it is more often acquired —
Some of the many methods of cure employed — ‘Lhe treatment
which promises the best results . . Bue a ois Bw ape VE - 40

CHAPTER X.—THE SECRET OF SUCCESSFUL TRAINING.

Nature lends every assistance — Shape the tendencies with which she
endows the puptl— Direct by motions of the hand—The dog
indued with the spirit of his master —A wide-ranging dog of
greater utility thanacloseranger . . . . 1 1 6 eee ee 46

CHAPTER XI.—QUARTERING, BACKING, ETC.

Beating up game in an open field— Backing and pointing contrasted
— Some dogs back instinctively —'The discipline others may need
—A tault for which the whip is the surest remedy — Its applica-
tion should be immediate . ewe a Bete! ald may eaten a Sea. 460)

CHAPTER XII.—CARDINAL QUALITIES OF HUNTING DOGS.

Should retrieving be discouraged ?—The affirmative theory scarcely
sustained — A dog constantly improves until six years old — The
question of superiority between the pointer and setter — The
cocker spaniel, and some of his qualities . . . ea se ay DE

CHAPTER XIII.— CONCLUSION.

All men cannot be successful trainers — Most notable characteristics
of those who are — Dog training an art — A knowledge of sire
and dam lends the trainer assistance — Parting advice to the
UBNATOITS eo ew ae a ses ee. TO

PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

CHAPTER I.
HOW TO HANDLE A DOG.

Ir, reader, you are a novice in handling dogs,
are impatient, excitable, and easily angered, and
you do not feel certain that you can restrain your
temper under circumstances more than ordinarily
trying, then I would advise you not to undertake
the management of a well bred pup. These
faults are grievous; their influence upon him
would be hurtful, and not impossibly ruinous.
You would, therefore, do better to procure for
your use a dog already broken, and fixed in habit
and character.

The first and most essential attribute in a
trainer is a natural affection for his dog, and the
indispensable qualifications to ensure success are
patience and perseverance. He may unite temper

with these qualities, but must not display the
7

8 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

same. If he has it under subjection he is better
qualified to succeed than if he were without it. I
have always observed that men possessed of high
temper, able to restrain it, have more will and
resolution, and are less likely to abandon any
project or enterprise which they undertake. Tem-
per, when under control, becomes a nobler attri-
bute, spirit; but when unrestrained it degenerates
into a beastly passion, deprives man of reason,
strips him of dignity, and places him on a level
with the brute whose standard he will in vain
attempt to elevate.

I would not advise you, as some authorities
have done, to procure a spike collar and attempt
to teach your pupil everything at once. These
men, denouncing the whip as an instrument of
torture, would substitute another doubly severe
in its application, and no more calculated-to disa-
buse the mind of the tortured pupil of the instru-
mentality of his master in the punishment.

Though the education of sporting dogs should
begin in early puppyhood, my experience warrants
me in fixing the limit at the fourth month. Les-
sons begun much earlier than this, I am inclined

to think, beget timidity, unless great caution on

HOW TO HANDLE A DOG. 9

the part of the trainer is used, and I know of
no weakness more objectionable in a dog intended
for the field or other purpose.

Until the age mentioned, a pup should only
be petted, caressed, and fed by the hand of his
master. He should be accustomed to accompany
him in short walks and rambles, and made to feel
at home and easy in his company. He should be
familiarized with the roads and paths leading to
and from the house, and accustomed to the sight
of strangers, different objects and animals about
the premises, in order to acquire a sufficient de-
gree of confidence and fearlessness to withstand
any distracting agency which may operate against
the efforts of the trainer when the hour of instruc-

?

tion arrives. The words “Come in” or “ Come
here” should be used wheneyer occasion demands,
or when he is approached with his plate, or
tidbit reserved for him. These words he soon
learns to associate with something which you de-
sign for him, be it a kindly stroke or a morsel
to eat, and, if repeated often, their intent and pur-
pose soon become fixed in his mind, and he learns
to obey promptly. Now, regarding the effects of

sights and sounds upon puppies, no close or even

10 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

casual observer of dogs has failed to notice the
difference between the town and the country
whelp. The one is generally bold, fearless, and
indifferent to everything around him; the other
is wide awake to the approach of strangers, his
manner shrinking, and his ear pricked at every
unusual noise or sound. The latter, however,
in the end, develops into the best fielder, because
of the easy and ready access to game which the
fields near his home afford.

CHAPTER II.
FIRST LESSONS IN RETRIEVING.

“To fetch” is the very first lesson which
should be taught. I hold that all propensities
and inclinations of a dog which tend to his
ultimate good, and especially those which assist
the trainer, should be assiduously cultivated, and
surely there are none earlier developed than this
desire to run and fetch a ball, a glove, or other
object thrown for his pleasure. Here is where a
pup practically learns the meaning of ‘ fetch,”
which he will never forget when taken out on
game. This practice becomes, as it were, a habit,
and fixed habits in man and beast are second
nature, the power of which maintains its sway
through life. Some trainers advise the deferring
of this branch of a pup’s tuition ; then, when it
is commenced, to use the spike collar as the first
means of teaching him to retyieve. I am sur-
prised at their doing this before trying a simpler
and more pleasing plan. It may answer very well

I

12 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

for old, hard-headed dogs, the education of which
has been neglected; then potent remedies are
required, but the application of this instrument
to very young dogs is as cruel and unwarrantable
a practice as advocates of the whip ever resorted
to. I know that I antagonize a few trainers
when I denounce the use of the spike collar upon
young dogs; nevertheless, I am entitled to a right
of opinion, especially when I base it upon per-
sonal experience.

The use of the spike emanated with profes-
sional breakers, who train and educate dogs for a
pecuniary consideration, and whose aim is to at-
tain the end in a given period or as short a time
as possible. Their motives are any other than
humane, and they are uot influenced by that af-
fection for their pupils which true sportsmen
naturally possess. Few of us, in our respective
spheres, are sufficiently patient. The owner of a
dog who expects him to work from a sense of
love and attachment, and follow up the course of
early impressions, must be content to wait, and
should not look for first-class execution before the
second season on game; before he can become a
thoroughly reliable hunter, in and out of sight,

FIRST LESSONS IN RETRIEVING. 13

one fully qualified in every branch of the service,
still another season of practice will be needed.
Now, as teaching to “fetch” is unattended, or
should be, with acts of violence, a pup is admis-
sible to this department of learning at the age of
three months, and, if well grown and healthy,
even earlier. Commence with him by rolling a
ball, or throwing a glove, across the floor. You
must sit down, in a position that will induce him
to return to you after he goes for the object.
When he picks it up, say “Fetch,” and caress him
if he does so. Use no other word than * Fetch,”
lest you confuse him. Continue to exercise him
twice a day in this manner, during your leisure
moments; in three weeks’ time you will be
pleased’ to see how well he obeys, and, at the
command “Fetch,” looks about in search, even
before you have cast the ball or glove for him.
Never strike or cuff him when he refuses to come
back, or stops to play with his ball, as is often the
case. The little rascal will probably roll over,
gnaw his plaything, and apparently taunt you
with this delay, or, if fatigued, no amount of urg-
ing will move him. You must be patient and
considerate with him at this age, remembering

14 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

that he is a mere pup, and not looking as far and
anxiously into the future as you are; besides,
this is a lesson which you are trying to “steal
upon him.” You must, therefore, consult his
humor, and embrace opportunities when he pre-
sents them. The lesson is one which repetition
develops into a habit, the force of which will
gather strength, and at maturity prove a most
essential acquirement. It is a discipline which
should be persisted in while yard-breaking, and
until the pupil is a year old or more, being omit-
ted only occasionally for two or three weeks at a
time, as other lessons are commenced.

Of those who complain of not having time to
devote to this exercise, I would ask, what better
opportunity could you desire than the long
winter nights, when everything is quiet, save,
perhaps, the singing of the half-green chunk on
the fire, to the inviting glow of which the pup is
more than pleased to gain admittance. At just
such times and places, with an old stocking or a
slipper, has been laid the foundation of many a
champion’s bright career.

CHAPTER III.
“ HEED” —“ HIE ON.”

SUPPOSING your pup to be four months old, it
is high time to teach him one of his most impor-
tant lessons, viz.: to stand or point at the com-
mand “ Heed” or “To-ho.” The latter term is
more commonly taught by English keepers, but I
prefer the former, and the majority of sportsmen
in the South are accustomed-to it. It is a mono-
syllable, and easily spoken, it is a more expres-
sive word and, therefore, to be preferred. This
lesson may be begun with the aid of a piece of
beef or biscuit, or his plate of dinner, either of
which, when placed before your puppy, he will
naturally evince an eagerness to obtain. You
must restrain him by putting your open hand
under his throat; firmly hold him back, and at
the same time say “ Heed.” Stroke him on the
back with the free hand, repeating the command,
“ Heed,” then release him suddenly and say “ Hie
on!” After he has eaten his morsel, put down

15

16 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

another, over which he will be as frantic as be-
fore, and, finding himself again restrained, will
attempt to dodge his head under your wrist.
Hold him back firmly, but kindly, and repeat the
command “ ITeed”’ several times, before releasing
him to the order “ Hie on.” Repeat the lesson
frequently during the day, and always at meal-
times. Never permit him to eat without this
restraint upon his eagerness, and in a few days
you will see that he is beginning to associate the
command “ Weed” with the act of stopping, and
“Hie on” with that of going forward. Then,
in order to make him obey without holding, tap
him lightly on the head when he appears too
eager, and say “Teed.” In this way, he will
soon learn to stand and patiently wait the order
“Hie on.” Continue this practice for several
days; in all probability, you will then be able,
while several feet from your dog, to make him
hold his position, and advance at the word of
command.

You must be patient and forbearing; do not
attempt too much, or severely test your pupil’s
mental capacity. Remember to give but one
lesson at a time, for a term of days or weeks, in

“HEED ” —“ HIE ON.” 17

order to impress it indelibly on the mind. Only
when that one has been well learned should
another be commenced. The check cord is
sometimes employed by the trainer, and is an
admirable auxiliary agent upon very headstrong
subjects. When required, it should be attached
to the neck or collar, and with the command
“Heed,” or “ To-ho,” the dog should be jerked ;
or, by placing your foot on the end of the cord,
the dog be allowed to jerk himself. Now, the
jerk and command, coming together simultane-
ously, will be associated in his untutored mind,
and to escape the one, he will be glad to obey the
other. As I have never had occasion to use the
cord in this lesson, I would not recommend it
excepting in extreme cases.

The next step is to take your pup to a close
room, or to a secluded spot in the yard, where
there is nothing to distract his attention from his
lessons. Call him to you, show him a piece of
beef or bread, and with a waft of your hand toss
it to the right. When he rushes for it, command
him first to “Heed”; then, after obeying, to
“Hie on.” Call him in and try him in the same
way on the left. Then take a stone or chip

18 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

(something not edible) and a piece of meat, and
throw one to the right, the other to the left, being
sure he sees them both fall. Hie him on, and let
him take his choice of directions; and if, per-
chance, he should go to the corner opposite the
meat, he will draw blank, and then dash across
to the other to find his morsel. This will teach
him to quarter and hunt up his game. After
finding the meat, always whistle him to you.

You will now do well to teach your pup to
come “to heel” when called. You should also
begin to accustom him to remain at your side
during the daily walks which you take with him.
Instead of a chain, a stick about the length of a
cane, or a light cane itself, may be used, and on
the end of this a snap should be fastened. To
the ring of his collar this may be attached, and by
this means he can be kept opposite your legs as
you walk. Apply this restraint for only short
distances at first, and when released bid him “hie
on.” After a short time, the attachment can be
dispensed with; you must then be certain that he
does not leave your side until you have signified
your consent by the same words of command.

CHAPTER IV.
“ CHARGE.”

WHEN you see that he has become quite stanch
and obedient, and has reached, we will say, the
age of five or six months, you can then begin to
teach him to “down charge.” This lesson, like
every other, is a little difficult at first, but with
patience all trouble is soon overcome. Gently
force your dog into the desired position, with
forepaws extended, and his head stretched out on
or between them. Say, at the same time, “ Down
charge,” or “Charge,” as you prefer, and repeat
the command until he is reieved with “ Hie up,”
or “ Hold up.” When he attempts to rise before
being ordered to do so, tap him on the head,
or press on his back, and repeat the command.
You must go slowly at first, until he begins to
associate the command with his peculiar posture.
After a time, as your pupil progresses, you may,
using good judgment, become more austere in
your manner, and force him to obey promptly at

the word. Practise him frequently in this way,
19

20 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

and repeat the instructions daily until they are
fully understood.

Now, when you have succeeded in making your
dog “heed,” “hie on,” and * charge” promptly
(which are the most important branches of his
education), and have at intervals continued to
exercise him with the glove or ball, there is in
order another lesson, which goes further towards
bringing a young dog under control, and enabling
him to distinguish between the various commands,
than any that I have ever seen tried — viz.: calling
him off his point. This in the field is not neces-
sary or advisable; but in the yard it teaches him
to give ear and attention, and not confound one
command with another. Now, supposing a morsel
of bread has been thrown him, or there is a tempt-
ing plate of dinner, over which he stands or

y

“leeds” when ordered, and you say, “Come
here.” Having been accustomed to “hie on,”
he will, of course, rush forward at the first sound
of your voice, not knowing that you wish him to
“come in,” when heretofore at this juncture he
has been told to “hie on.” You must be ready
to cry “Heed” again, and make him stop; then

repeat the order, ‘Come here, sir,” and upon his

“ CHARGE.” 21

first motion forward, cry “Tut, tut, come here.
Come here, sir,” repeating these words rapidly to
break up the chain of reasoning that is binding
him at the moment. When he turns his head to
look at you, snap your finger at him, stoop down,
and insist upon his coming in. As soon as he
obeys, pat him and let him on to his plate. Only
two or three trials are required to make him act
properly in this work. The dog understands well
enough the meaning of “Come here,” but he is
confused at your commanding him at such a time
and place, so contrary to what he has been accus-
tomed to. As soon as he is perfected in this lesson,
it will be no little pleasure to observe how atten-
tively he awaits to obey your different orders, never
mistaking one for another. After each call from
his point, make him “down charge,” with his
face to the plate. With the expenditure of a
little time and some effort, this exercise becomes
a very pleasing one; it thoroughly subdues the
pup’s excessive eagerness, and places him under
more complete control.

I have broken braces in this manner, and
allowed them to approach within a foot of tempt-
ing bits of cooked meat, there to await the com-

22 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

mand, either “Hie on,” or “Come in,” which
they had learned to distinguish and obey with
great accuracy and precision. The sight of two
dogs charging promptly together, eying each
other jealously, “hieing on” and “coming in” to
order, is one that would elicit the admiration of
the most indifferent spectator. When a child is
made to recite the first lessons in addition which
he has committed to memory,— for instance, one
and one are two, one and two are three, and so
on, —how readily he answers, and smilingly re-
joices over his accomplishment; but pray observe
his astonishment and confusion when the question
is put to him out of the order as given in his
book, or as he has been taught. The exercise is
not unlike the one I have just recommended for
the canine pupil, and there is none which serves
to rivet the attention more firmly, or assists him
more to distinguish, as I said before, the signifi-
cance of the various commands without mistaking
one for another. When your dog is perfectly
familiar with the preceding lessons, he should be
practised in varions ways and on different
grounds, where the terms, the meaning of which
has been taught him, are applicable.

CHAPTER V.
VALUE OF VARIETY IN ROUTINE.

WHEN the exercises are varied, as is plain to
be seen, unusual experiences will be encountered.
Although the use of the same terms of command
already taught him will be needed, change is salu-
tary, relieving the monotony of the young dog’s
routine, and thereby conducing to the strength
and vigor of his reasoning powers. The follow-
ing practice has aided me much in perfecting my
own dogs; I would, therefore, advise others to
follow it.

Take three or four short stakes, or pieces of
picket lumber, about two and one-half feet long;
sharpen one end, and drive them into the ground
to the depth of six or eight inches; they should
be in a line, and about twenty feet apart. On
the top of each, nail a small piece of board or
plank about six or eight inches square, large
enough, at least, to hold a bit of meat or bread.

After you have arranged them, step off a short
23

24 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

distance, call the pup, show him a piece of meat
in your hand; then make him “down charge,”
and remain so while you go forward and put it
on the top of the nearest stake. Now come back
to him, and hie him on, making him heed, or to-ho,
when within a few feet of the stake. After he
is ordered on and allowed to take the meat, call
him in; then make him “down charge,” and
remain in that position while you go forward
again. Walk down the line and put your hand
on all the stakes, in the manner of children’s play
of “Hide the Thimble”; this time leave the
meat on the last stake in the row. When you
return and hie your dog on, of course he will go
to the first stake, where he was so fortunate
before; but not finding his prize, after nosing
around the foot of the stake and mounting to the
top again, he will dash off to the next stake, and
so on down the row, until he at last discovers the
object of his search. After you have exercised
him in this manner for a few days, you can add
more stakes and place them about promiscuously,
thereby prolonging his search and making it more
difficult for him to find his coveted morsel.
When he seems confused, encourage him with

VALUE OF VARIETY IN ROUTINE. 25

the words “Hunt for it”; this teaches him to
range and feel close with his sensitive nose.

In this exercise, the dog should always be
thrown off to windward; and if the meat that is
used to tempt him has been placed on the coals
for a minute or so, he will not give up the search
as long as he sniffs the enticing odor. No method
of yard-training is better calculated than this one
to bring a dog to hunt with his head up, on the
wind, instead of on the ground, and to effect a
stylish and attractive carriage.

Let it be borne in mind that all of the fore-
going instructions are intended for young dogs or
puppies, as a primary course of learning, com-
monly known as yard-breaking, and they should
be instilled with a view of relieving the master
or sportsman of much work on the pup’s début
in the field. Remember that he should be drilled
under them until he is taken to the outer world
for work and business. Kind treatment is the
rule, and mild measures should be adopted from
the first; with firmness, patience, and perseve-
rance, success is assured. Endeavor to impress
upon your dog the fact that you are his master

and not he yours; that you are his friend, and,

26 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

though ever ready to supply his wants, and re-
ward him for his good deeds, you are equally
resolved to punish his transgressions.

Some authors on breaking advise —if the
shooting season finds your pup six months old —
taking him into the field without any previous
instructions, assuring you that the work of train-
ing can be accomplished with half the labor
necessary in the yard, or out of season. I most
emphatically differ from them on this point, and
think that the want of practical knowledge which
such advice evinces is glaringly apparent. I do
not deny that a dog can be broken in the field
without any previous preparation, nor contend
that yard-breaking is absolutely necessary to make
a fielder. I do know, however, that first les-
sons in the field are attended with innumerable
difficulties, and IT would advise you to defer enter-
ing there, for a month at least, for your pup’s
sake, delaying until he is familiar with a few
signs and commands, which are intended to

govern his actions when on game.

CHAPTER VI.
SOUND OF THE GUN.— POINTING RABBITS, ETC.

WE will now return for a time to the first
months of pup’s life, to give emphasis to several
points of infinite importance, the consideration of
which we have reserved to avoid confusion. At
a very early age he should be accustomed to, and,
in fact, taught to welcome, the sound of the gun.
If this essential in his training is neglected until
the time when he should enter the field, deplo-
rable results very often follow. Not infrequently
a dog is rendered absolutely worthless by the ter-
rible fright experienced when a gun is first fired
over or near him. In fact, a pup should, in as
much as possible, be accustomed to every unusual
sound. But if he can stand without flinching
while a gun is fired within a few feet of him, it
is unlikely that other sounds will cause him exces-
sive fright.

Almost every trainer has methods peculiarly

his own by which he accustoms his pups to the
27 ,

28 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

‘sound of the gun. All of value that are applied
at the early period of life are, however, based on
the same principle. They teach a pup to love a
gun, by associating with its discharge some espe-
cial pleasure. The primary measures which you
use are unimportant; a drum, if you have one, or
an old tin pan, or an empty box, will do, —some-
thing which, when struck with a stick, will emit
a sharp, quick sound. This you should at first
keep at a distance from the pup’s kennel or pen.
When taking his food to him, whistle or call him
as is your wont, and at the same time give a
stroke on whatever you have selected, be it drum
or pan, and then rapidly approach and feed him.
Pursue this method, giving each day a heavier
stroke, and then, after a time, move the instru-
ment which you employ nearer his kennel, lessen-
ing the distance gradually. He will in this way
associate the sounds with your coming, and also
with his food or his liberty, and, in time, no din
which you can make, even in his pen, will unnerve
him. Quite the reverse: he will gladly endure it
for the pleasure which he is certain will follow.
This much accomplished, it will be well for you

now to use a gun or pistol. Instead of the old

SOUND OF THE GUN, ETC. 29

and familiar sound, let him hear you explode a
cap at a distance, when you call to him. Follow
the same methods of procedure as before, and
each day bring the sound nearer, until at last the
snapping of a cap over his head will fail to startle
him. Now, instead of a cap, use a charge of
powder. It should be light at first, and finally a
full charge. If, in the same way advised, he is
gradually accustomed to the sound of the gun, it
will have no terrors for him; on the contrary, he
will learn to love and welcome it.

During the employment of this system, it will
be well to occasionally seek the aid of an assist-
ant, who will fire while you are with the pup, and
are closely watching him. If any evidence of
fear is noted, you must lay aside the gun and
return to the first method advised, and again pass
through the different stages of the exercise.

This course which I have recommended is a
conservative one. True, in some instances, if the
gun is used from the first, and the pup is gradu-
ally accustomed to its sound, possibly the result
will be the same. It might not be as well, how-
ever, for there is more or less danger in the

method; while in the slower and more tedious

30 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

process which I advised, success is almost fully
assured, and no risk incurred.

While your pup is still young, there is one
peculiarity which will need correction. Any
setter or pointer will naturally chase cats or
rabbits, and in the course of his education he
must be broken from this. It ought not be diffi-
cult to soon teach him not to exhibit the objec-
tionable trait. Almost every household has its
cat; if not, it would be well to bring one up with
the pup, that he may become thoroughly ac-
quainted with her kind before he enters the field;
otherwise, they will come in for a share of his
attention. He should also be made familiar with
rabbits, or he will be as likely to point, if not
chase, them, as he would higher game. .A pair
can easily be obtained, and for them quarters
should be built near his pen, and connecting with
it by a small opening. Through this they can
pass at will, and in a short time become so well
acquainted he will be utterly indifferent to them.

For the same obvious reasons you should
accustom your pup to fowls. If you do not keep
them, it will be of no little advantage for you to
secure a pair; when possible, bring up a brood of

THE CHAIN. 31

chickens with him. If he is introduced to them
while yet young, and attempts to chase and worry
them, he is likely to soon encounter the mother
and receive from her a rebuke which will prove
effectual; and ever after he will treat her little
ones with greater consideration.

In pursuance of this plan which we have out-
lined, it will be advisable for you to try and
anticipate every contingency. While yet he is
very young, you should familiarize your pup,
in as much as possible, with the distracting influ-
ences which he is likely to encounter after his
education has actually commenced.

There yet remains one point which, although
seemingly trifling, still deserves mention. It is
the need to habituate him to the restraint of the
chain. The earlier this is done the better; for
the difficulty increases with delay. As soon as it
is apparent that he is capable of understanding,
fasten a light chain to his collar, and then follow
for a short time as he moves about, being careful
not to resist him. In a few days he will become
somewhat accustomed to it, and you can then
begin to control his movements. The restraint
must be very slight at first, however, and he

32 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

should be coaxed, not forced, to follow you. Do
not prolong the lesson, but let him learn gradu-
ally, and he will soon trot along by your side like
an old dog.

You must now accustom him to greater re-
straint, and until he is taught to bear it patiently
you will need to be firm in your conduct with
him. Chain him up, and remain at first quieting
his fears and lightening his hardship by kind
words and caresses. When he no longer strug-
gles, unchain and set him free. Repeat the lesson
two or thiee times a day, leaving him alone after
the first two or three days. You must observe
this rule, namely: never release him while he
still struggles and tugs at his chain. Resist his
piteous appeals, and only free him when he
becomes quiet. He will soon learn that strug-
gling and howling are purposeless, and that com-
plete submission to your wishes is the ouly course
cpen to him.

We will now return and take up the trail where
we left it, and introduce our rapidly maturing
pup to the duties for which he was being pre-
pared when we digressed to give you these hints
on early management.

CHAPTER VII.
TAKING THE PUP AFIELD.

You are fortunate if the game season finds
your dog at the age of seven or eight months,
and he has learned the lessons which we have
already assigned; you can now take him to the
field while they are yet fresh in his mind. The
change will be no less pleasing than bewildering ;
the scent which is emitted from the grouse and
quail will tickle his nose more than the morsels
of meat did his palate, and he will awake to a
world of new sensations and delights. If he is a
well bred puppy, in good health and courageous,
he will at first probably be wild, and unmindful
of everything said or done. Do not repress him
at once, or restrain his dash and range, but permit
him to run riot for an hour or two, when he will
come down to his work. ‘This eagerness is not
objectionable in a youngster. It is indicative of
physical vigor and good breeding, and, to a cer-
tain extent, is evidence that he possesses the

e
33

34 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

essential qualities. It is advisable to take with
you, when convenient, a good old steady dog;
your young one will be apt to watch and follow
after he has tired a little.

You must now be on the gu? véve for his first
stand or point; and when it oacurs, or he shows
signs of game, caution him with the command
“ Heed,” uttered in a low, prolonged tone. Ap-
proach and flush the covey, and endeavor to
bring down one bird at least. If pup rushes after
the scattering brood, you must not be surprised
or get angry. Remember that this is the prey
he is bred to pursue, and one on which you threw
him; he has not as yet been taught not to pursue
it when it is trying to escape. You must ery
“Down charge,” and if he does not obey, go to
him, get him by the collar, and bring him back to
the spot where he pointed, and there make him
“charge” while you reload. Then cast him off
in the direction of the fallen bird, saying, “ Dead!
seek dead!” repeating these words until he finds it;

$0?

then say, “ Fetch, fetch If he should not pick
up the bird at first, and fetch promptly, do not
allow him to nose or mouth it, but take it up

yourself, and apparently make much of it; stroke

TAKING THE PUP AFIELD. 35

down the feathers, and allow him to smell and
enjoy it while in your hand. Though he natu-
rally wants it himself, he will soon learn, as he
watches it go into the game-bag after every shot,
that you want it also, and intend to claim it.

It is, of course, well to drop, if possible, a bird
with each shot, so as to associate in the dog’s
mind the shooting with the possession of the cov-
eted game; yet the killing of birds now must be a
secondary consideration, and your whole atten-
tion should be given to your pupil. For this
reason it is well to have a companion to shoot
and mark down game, while you have an eye
exclusively to the pup. If he is wayward and
perverse, I would suggest the use of a small,
strong cord, about twenty feet long; this should
be attached to his collar. When he comes
to a point, approach him from behind and get
hold of or put your foot on the same, and caution
him with “Heed.” Your comrade will now flush
the birds, and pup in breaking shot will be jerked
heels over head, perhaps, to the tune of “ Down
charge.” It will require but a few such lessons
to bring him to a sense of duty, to teach him to
drop on the discharge of the gun. Whenever a

36 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

bird is killed, after you have reloaded throw your
dog off in the direction of dead game by a motion
of your hand, saying, as before, “ Dead seek,” or
“Seek dead.” Continue on each occasion to urge
him to “fetch”; this he will surely do sooner or
later if he has been well trained in the yard.

Always approach the marked covey or bird to
leeward, in order to give your dog every advan-
tage of the scent, and to avoid blunders which he
will be apt to make running down wind on his
game. In the course of time, if hunted regulaaly,
he will soon learn to fall down wind himself, and
hold well up on it in the search. When you note
that your dog does this, you can congratulate
yourself upon the possession of a valuable hunter,
and one which will only require work to bring
him near perfection. After using the cord for a
few days, you can take it off and give the pup a
trial without it. You must be on the alert, for
very likely, upon the first flush, feeling no check,
he will imagine that you wanted him to go. If
he does so after the command * Charge,’ you
must catch him and use the lash, sparingly, how-
ever, at first.

CHAPTER VIII.
THE USE OF THE WHIP.

A rew words regarding the whip. The sphere
of its usefulness is a limited one, but for positive
acts of disobedience and wilfulness it is necessary.
An agent of good in the hands of a cool, resolute
man, it becomes malignant when wielded on the
impulse of a brutal mind. It is not the whip that
has ruined so many dogs, but the man at the
handle. The field is the place that calls for the
most correction during the first and second sea-
sons on game. Then, as a rule, the most gentle
means should be resorted to, and those which
have been employed in the yard should be applied.
When, however, severe punishment is needed,
there is nothing which can supply the place of
the whip, and it should be used when a dog
breaks shot, breaks his point, or wilfully disobeys.
The sportsman should always go prepared with
one that is strong and pliant, short, and easily
carried in the pocket. The dog should never be

37

38 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

threatened with it when about to be punished,
but should be taken firmly by the collar with the
‘left hand, his head held well down, and with the
tight hand the lash laid on. Then the whip
should be slipped back into the pocket before the
dog is let up. He painfully realizes the punish-
ment received for his offence, and because he does
not see the instrument used, he will be even more
careful in his movements, lest he again invites
such a woful and unaccountable experience.
Never call a dog to you and whip him. Always
go to him, or he will ever afterwards, when called,
have his doubts as to what awaits him — whether
the rawhide or a caress. On the other hand,
when a dog is whipped at the place where he
does wrong, he will ever after be only too glad to
run to you when he is called, to keep you from
going to him.

Let it be remembered that the foregoing pre-
cautions and rigid discipline are applicable to
pups of very headstrong and perverse natures.
Those that are timid should be handled very
differently. They should be encouraged by reas-
suring words and your spirited manner while in the
field. Animals are very quick to catch the habits

THE USE OF THE WHIP. 389

and peculiarities of the associates with whom they
are in daily contact. Strains differ very widely,
too, in disposition and temperament. Some are
predisposed to point stanchly at a very early
age, are exceedingly tractable, and, withal, fear
less; while others are almost unmanageable. I
once owned a strain of pointers which, I have
heard sportsmen say, the master deserved no
credit for his training, for they were so very intel-
ligent that only a few lessons were needed to
prepare them for the field.

Continue your pup’s education in the way
which I was pointing out when we digressed to
discuss the question of punishment. Make him
now “down charge” on every shot, or stand until
ordered on. Birds are often lying close after the
first one rises on the wing. They would be
flushed before you could reload, if your dog were
allowed to break shot. Besides this, a dog should
never be allowed to advance on game without a
word or sign from his master. If such freedom is
permitted under his eye, surely it will be taken
when his back is turned, or the dog is out of his

sight.

CHAPTER IX.
GUN-SHYNESS AND ITS CURE.

WE shall be obliged to linger at this point, and
briefly discuss the subject of gun-shyness, which
has always been one of exceeding interest for
sportsmen. The theory that this peculiarity of
disposition is inheritable has found many advo-
cates, while some have dissented from it. There
is no reason whatever why it should not be ac-
cepted as true; for there is a physiological law
fixed and unalterable that both physical and
mental peculiarities, be they imparted by inheri-
tance, or acquired accidentally by faulty manage-
ment in early life, are alike transmissible.

While, then, gun-shyness in a pup may be an
inherent defect, testimony is not wanting to prove
that it is by far more often due to incompetency,
or criminal neglect, on the part of the trainer.
No two puppies are alike in disposition ; every
gradation of courage is noted, not only in the

different breeds but also in the same litter. One
40

GUN-SHYNESS AND ITS CURE. 41

will need restraint, and possibly the whip; while,
with another, only by the kindest treatment can
his timidity be overcome.

I do not say that every pup wanting in courage
can by judicious management be regenerated and
made fearless; I do say, however, that as an un-
daunted spirit may be broken and its possessor
become shrinking, cowardly, and worthless, so,
too, may a timid pup, by wise, humane, and
thoughtful methods, acquire a courage which will
sustain him through years of usefulness.

I have already advised you of the proper course
to pursue to accustom your pup to the sound of
the gun. Rarely will the result be disappointing,
and if failure does occur I can but feel that the
fault will be in its application rather than in the
system itself. It may be your misfortune, through
some reason or other, to be, when the season opens,
the unhappy possessor of a gun-shy pup. A work
of this character would scarcely be complete were
this contingency unprovided for, and advice as to
management is herein given.

We come now to a point where we are beset
with many difficulities; there is scarcely any
subject which interests sportsmen, on which there

42 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

is a greater diversity of opinion. With this fact
those who have watched the kennel press for the
past ten years are familiar. In articles on gun-
shyness which have appeared in the ‘‘ American
Field” it is noted that while one claims that the
defect is a fatal one, another is equally sure
that it is curable. One writer considers two dis-
tinct forms of gun-shyness, namely: natural, or
hereditary ; and unnatural, or induced by circum-
stances, —the former he deems incurable. This
theory is certainly ingenious, but reason can
scarcely sustain such a nicety of distinction, if
we consider this fault of disposition only; that
is, if a dog is simply terrorized by the sound of
the gun, and yet shows no lack of courage under
other conditions. Here, again, we find ourselves
dealing with the improbable; for by far the larg-
est proportion of gun-shy dogs are, under all
circumstances in which courage is needed, nota-
bly deficient in that attribute. If a young dog,
nearing maturity, is of a skulking, cowardly
nature, it will be next to impossible to instil
into him the quality in which he is so essentially
lacking, and, very properly, such an unfor-

tunate should be condemned as incurable. If,

GUN-SHYNESS AND ITS CURE. 43

however, he can encounter the ordinary experi-
ences of life without fear, and the sound of the
gun alone causes excessive fright, then there are
many chances in his favor, and a cure may, under
judicious management, be expected. There is
truth in what one sportsman has said: “I would
a thousand times rather own a gun-shy dog that
had plenty of nerve and hunt in him when
without a gun, than a timid one that was not
gun-shy.”

A variety of methods for the treatment of gun-
shyness have been recommended. As is the case
in many physical disturbances, a measure which
may be efficacious in one patient may prove
valueless when administered to another. Some
have advised taking a dog into the field and firing
one hundred and fifty to two hundred shots near
him; the object being to partially deafen him,
and so diminish his sensitiveness. This method
scarcely recommends itself.

Over some young dogs, those older and well
trained have a decided influence, and if they are
taken out day after day together, the former being
securely held with a long cord so he cannot run,

and otherwise unnoticed, the fault may be over-

44 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

come. Generally this method is soon abandoned
as too sore a tax upon the trainer.

The treatment which promises the best results
is a modification of that course advised for accus-
toming puppies to the sound of the gun. Chain
your dog up and every time you feed him, stand
where he can see you, but at some distance from
him, and then fire. With the gun still in your hand,
approach rapidly and feed him. It will be well,
while submitting him to this discipline, to give
less than the usual quantity of food, that he may
be more anxious for it. Fire the gun every time
you visit his kennel, and always follow the explo-
sion with some special pleasure for him — either a
dainty morsel to eat, or his liberty. Lessen the
distance from which you fire each day, but do it
very gradually.

Be observing, and watch the effect of this
treatment; some slight modifications may be
necessary. The course advised necessitates some
trouble, and, as in all branches of dog training,
patience will be indispensable. I do not claim
that in every instance by following this system
you will be successful; but I insist that it will
prove effective much oftener than it will fail, and

GUN-SHYNESS AND ITS CURE. 45

moreover it is the one among them all which prom-
ises the best results. If after giving it a fair
trial your dog is still terrorized by the gun, you
will have good reason to feel that the case is well
nigh hopeless.

Before leaving this subject, a word upon the

permanency of the cure of gun-shyness. Many
" will tell you that the fault, while seemingly over-
come, is yet liable to reappear. This tendency,
of course, may exist for a time, and unusual care
and watchfulness will be needed to combat it. In
time, however, the owner may feel reasonably
secure against the return of the trouble.

CHAPTER X.
THE SECRET OF SUCCESSFUL TRAINING.

Havine worked your dog for a part of the sea-
son, you should withdraw his older companion, so
as not to engender a feeling of dependency.
Take him into open, scant fields, with cover fur-
ther removed, in order to bring out his ranging
qualities, which are all desirable, and even indis-
pensable, in a field dog. I hold that a well bred
dog —one born of trained parents, and naturally
fascinated with the odor of game —will perfect
himself in this branch of service independently of
all the rules which man can devise, providing, of
course, he is regularly worked. Nature plays an
important part in this matter, and it is only
necessary to shape the tendencies with which she
has endowed your pupil. It is well to accustom
your dog to the motions of your hand, by which
you will indicate the direction in which you wish
him to go. When he is ordered on, you should

always move in the same direction. When the
46

THE SECRET OF SUCCESSFUL TRAINING. 47

game is marked down, you have the advantage of
your dog, and he should be induced or forced to
follow the course you direct. At other times, he
has the advantage over you, in an organ of sense
which enables him to discover where game is
concealed,

On entering a field throw him off with a move-
ment of your hand —to the right or left, as you
may see fit. On his approach to a fence, ery
“ Heed,” or ‘“ Ware fence,” and whistle to attract
his attention; then cast him off again with an-
other motion, and move in the same direction ;
continue to do this until the whole field is drawn.
Make him skirt and closely trim hedges, where
game is often hid; the heavy cover holds the
scent, and it does not reach him at a distance.
After two or three seasons’ good work, a dog
learns from experience to note the grounds and
cover which are favorable to game, with as much
accuracy as does his master; and then it behooves
the sportsman to let him have pretty much his
own way on entering a new field; for he is now
well taught, and requires little or no assistance.

You will find that the secret of success in
breaking a dog for service and the réle of field

48 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

companion is in following him up closely and
encouraging him with your presence. Let him
be assured by your actions and zeal that you are
thoroughly in earnest, and never under any cir-
cumstances leave the field to return home, or go
elsewhere, without giving him timely notice, or
calling him in. Then by your conduct he will
be assured of your kindly intentions. At the
termination of every hunt, whistle him up, take
off your game-bag, empty out the contents before
him, let him see what you have both accom-
plished, and, while you put the birds back one by
one, use endearing terms to him, laugh and make
merry with him, appearing to be proud of your
success; he will catch the spirit, and be no less
pleased. All of this is flattering to him, and,
though a youngster may not understand it at
first, an old one fully appreciates it. I have
owned old pointers who on occasions have
seemed greatly overcome with joy, evincing it
by rolling over and over, and jumping upon me
and my gun, showing as much satisfaction and
conceit as one can well imagine.

Mr. Edward Laverack, the famous old English
breeder, says: ——“I seldom use whip or whistle,

THE SECRET OF SUCCESSFUL TRAINING. 49

but allow my dogs to use their own natural sa-
gacity in making their casts and finding game. I
have ever found those dogs which range wide
turn out the best. It does not follow because a
dog ranges wide that he will not range close.
Where game is plentiful, a wide-ranging dog
must necessarily become a close ranger, because
here the game stops him; it is high courage and
anxiety to find game that causes him to range
wide. <A wide-ranging «og, too, saves you a
great deal of walking. Every shooting man
knows that he may occasionally tramp over two
or three miles without coming across anything;
here it is, then, that a wide-ranging dog is of
greater utility than a close ranger.”

CHAPTER XI.
QUARTERING, BACKING, ETC.

QUARTERING is a most desirable qualification,
and, when properly and well done, constitutes
beautiful work. It is simply the movements of
a dog on parallel lines over a field, cutting it
up, as it were, and covering nearly all parts
of it. The following diagram will explain the
course both the sportsman and his dog should
pursue in beating up game in an open field. The
straight lines represent the direction the dog
should go; the diagonal lines mark the course for
the sportsman.

A represents the point from which the dog is
thrown off in the direction of B, while the sports-
man walks towards J, which point brings him in
sufficient proximity to his dog when he reaches
the fence or boundary to call him round on the
next parallel line, C D, and while the dog is
working down this, he walks from I to J, and so
on, until the field is drawn. Of course a dog is

50

QUARTERING, BACKING, ETC. 51

not expected to describe perfectly straight lines,
but if he even approximates them he will com-
mand all the game in the region through which

H; G
'
;
'
1 K
‘
E F
J
D c
— ]
A
Mieka iieat ase secineseaeare cele secs Suey B
ENTRANCE

he passes. He should always be cast off with a
motion of the hand, and the command “ Hie
away.” At the points where the straight and
diagonal lines approach each other, and where it
is supposed he will pass in front of you, the
words, “Hie away,” “Hunt for it,” or other
familiar expressions of encouragement, should be
used, but in a low tone of voice, for fear of start-
ling hidden game.

Backing is another very necessary qualification,
and it is simply the act of one dog in coming to a

52 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

stand the moment he sees another on a point.
Although the attitudes of dogs at a point and at
a back are similar, — the one, possibly, more mo-
tionless and fixed than the other, — there is a dis-
tinction. A point is when a dog stands at the
scent of game; a back is when he stands another
dog —in other words, he realizes the situation,
and fears to move lest he disturb and flush the
game which his brace-mate is holding. This, I
think, is acquired in most instances from associa-
tion, although I have seen many young dogs back
instinctively, but they were of strains the innate
tractable qualities of which were very notable.
It so often occurs that a youngster runs up by the
side of an older dog on his point, and stands at
the scent, that it is but reasonable to suppose
that in the course of time he learns to associate
the presence of game with the attitude of his
comrade; he cautiously approaches, and eventu-
ally backs him regardless of distance. Now, in
order to train a young dog which seems averse to
backing, or persists in rushing up to the scent,
my plan is to command him softly to ‘heed’? —
which means that he must stop —when I know
he sees the dog pointing. If he has been made to

QUARTERING, BACKING, ETC. 53

obey this command before, he will, of course, do
so now. Then I go before him in a cautious,
creeping posture, to impress him by my own
actions that there is game ahead, making him
keep his position until I flush and fire. Titis
constant practice will ultimately bring him to a
sense of his duty. If, on repeated occasions like
this, your dog persists in running in and flushing
game across the nose of his mate or companion,
you must catch him in the act, and then thrash
him soundly. Be quick, that he may know the
cause of his punishment, and I will warrant that
in a short time he will move up with more cau-
tion, and prove a backer in the end.

CHAPTER XII.
CARDINAL QUALITIES OF HUNTING DOGS.

A POINT is now reached where, in a rambling
way at least, we may properly discuss certain
subjects which have an important bearing upon
the one which we have been treating. It is be-
lieved by some, possibly many, that the mouthing
of a bird lessens, in a certain degree, the power
of scent; that it impairs that nicety of nose
which is so essential when game is scarce or lying
close. The advocates of this theory, therefore,
discourage retrieving, and decline to teach their
dogs this accomplishment, which their opponents,
on the contrary, consider of very great impor-
tance. At least, those who find it impossible to
keep more than one or a brace of dogs must con-
sider in them the qualities of a retriever invalua-
ble, and we might say indispensable. I have
serious doubts if mouthing affects the nose, since
there are so many instances where dogs have

pointed game with their dead birds in the mouth.
54

CARDINAL QUALITIES OF HUNTING boas. 55

If they can do this under these circumstances,
how much less pernicious must be the influences,
if any, which remain after birds have been
dropped from the mouth, and the dog has again
sought the wind. There is another factor to be
considered ; it does not seem impossible (far from
it; it is more than probable) that a dog would lose
heart and run with less spirit were he restrained
on every occasion from approaching the game
which he sees fall to his work, while an idler at
the heels of his master is allowed the honor of re-
trieving what he was in no way instrumental in
securing.

It is believed that a dog constantly improves
until six years old. As each intervening year
passes, he feels more keenly his sense of duty;
his attachments become firmer, and he is more
deeply impressed with the fact that upon his
actions his master’s success in the field very
greatly depends. In considering the qualities
which are essential in a dog, a good nose is, of
course, first in importance. Endowed by Nature,
it is to him what genius is to the artist, the sculp-
tor. All other qualities may be acquired, but this
must be inborn. Stanchness and_ tractability

56 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

may be said to come next on the list, and these
three qualities may be considered the cardinal
virtues. Scarcely less desirable is endurance,
which some breeds of dogs naturally possess in a
greater degree than others; all in good health
and physically well developed may, however, ac-
quire it under a judicious system of training.
Style and dash are to a very great extent gifts by
inheritance. The same may be said of speed and
range, which are yet largely propagated by culti-
vation ; the former, it is true, is not as requisite
in the setter and pointer as in some other breeds
of sporting dogs. We have already discussed
retrieving and estimated its value.

The question of superiority between the pointer
and setter is one on which sportsmen are at
variance, and it doubtless will ever remain unset-
tled excepting in individual minds. It may be
fairly said that there is but little to choose
between the two for field work. Some consider
that the pointer is the setter’s equal under all
couditions; the latter is, however, better fitted for
low countries, abounding in lakes and marshes,
and he is, J think, Icss sensitive to cold. In the
upland, hilly, and undulating portions of the

CARDINAL QUALITIES OF HUNTING DOGS. 57

South, the winter season finds the fields an inter-
minable waste of cockle-burs. These are too
well known to every sportsman to require any
description. The slightest brush is sufficient to
detach them from their stems; they are, there-
fore, a source of exceeding annoyance to setters,
becoming entangled as they do in their long hair,
from which they are only removed with the great-
est difficulty. Not infrequently these dogs, on
a hot trail, will stop and attempt to pull out the
pests from their coats with their teeth. In such
countries the pointer is but slightly inconveni-
enced, and he needs but a brush through the bush
or stiff cover to remove the burs if they have
attached themselves to him.

Setters and pointers have ever seemed to divide
the honors, and there is one breed of dogs, hardy
workers — the cocker spaniels —of which very
little is generally known. Oftentimes the briers
and bushes are so thick, the size of the pointer,
or his reluctance to enter, or the thick long hair
of the setter, is the cause of a light, or empty,
game-bag. Under such conditions, the cocker is
invaluable. Never over twelve inches high, lithe
and ambitious, he can easily penetrate and pass

58 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

through cover which to the larger dog is impassa-
ble. The assertion that this breed of dogs is
unfitted to endure the fatigue of hunting is dis-
proved by those who own them. Quick, alert,
strong, and handsome little animals are the genu-
ine cockers, and, withal, as intelligent, affection-
ate, and tractable dogs as are bred. This is the
testimony of their admirers, and there is no reason

to feel that it is an exaggeration.

CHAPTER XIII.
CONCLUSION,

“Tae little handful of things that I know”
have been pulled up in the field behind incom-
parable dogs, made so by the same methods of
teaching which I have suggested in the foregoing
chapters. Long experience has taught me their
value, and justified my recommending them to the
reader. I trust that he will recognize their sim-
plicity.

All men are not equally endowed by Nature
with the qualities essential to a successful trainer.
Truth sustains the satirist who wrote that there
are certain men who could never, train a dog
with all the instruction and experience of a life-
time; and there are others who cannot handle a
dog without ruining it, even after it is trained.

Some train their dogs in a way that is almost
inexplicable; they themselves can scarcely tell
you how they attain the desired result. Such
men are invariably very quiet, unobtrusive, and

59

60 PRINCIPLES OF DOG TRAINING.

self-reliant. They are also closely observant, great
lovers of Nature’s works, and possess a keen relish
for the pleasures of the field.

Dog training may not improperly be considered
an art. To practise it successfully, a great degree
of patience, and at least an ordinary amount of
intelligence, are demanded. Some pups are quick
to learn, and are easily controlled; with these, the
trainer has comparatively little or no trouble.
There are many, however, more or less wayward
and perverse, which will sorely tax his patience,
and, to succeed with them, he must use great
tact, perseverance, and firmness. <A thorough
knowledge of the pupil’s sire and dam, their
peculiarities, temperament, qualifications, ete., will
materially aid a trainer in his work of instruction.

I have purposely omitted advice as to the care
of dogs, such as feeding, exercise, keuneling, ete.
Those subjects are fully treated of in works de-
voted to general management, and need not be
herein considered. It will be necessary for you to
teach your pup decorum, that he must not be
familiar with strangers; possibly, too, you may be
obliged to overcome his fear of water. These

trifling matters have not been dwelt upon, as they

CONCLUSION. 61

will naturally suggest themselves to the intelligent
student, and certainly none other ought to under-
take the tuition of a pup.

In conclusion, the earnest hope is expressed that,
in the duty he assumes, the amateur trainer will
study Nature, and endeavor to assist her; that
he will try to interpret rightly her promptings,
and seek to educate his pupil by guiding and
shaping his instinctive tendencies, rather than
attempt to fix by force the principles he would
have him acquire.

STANDARD WORKS

J. FRANK PERRY, M.D. (Harv.),

WIDELY KNOWN BY THE NOM DE PLUME OF “ ASHMONT.”

DOGS:

THEIR MANAGEMENT AND TREATMENT
IN DISEASE.

This, the writer’s first publication, has been reviewed in all English-
speaking countries, and is universally acknowledged the standard work
on the subject, and an indispensable guide to the owners of valuable dogs.
It is not confined to canine diseases alone, but gives full directions as to
management in health.

PRICE, $2.00.

A FRIEND IN NEED:

A HOUSEHOLD GUIDE IN HEALYH AND
IN DISEASE.

This is a careful treatise which should find a place in every home. It
tells us how to live to maintain good health, and, when ill, how to determine
from what disease we suffer, and how to cure the same. In that same
painstaking way which characterizes all his efforts, Dr. Perry has care-
fully treated every branch of the subject. He has discussed the causes of
the different diseases, clearly described their symptoms, and, in advising
treatment, he has introduced prescriptions, and given the most minute
directions for the administration of medicine, nursing, the preparation of
invalids’ food, and, in fact, for all the duties which pertain to the care
of the sick. Those who are familiar with the author’s other works can
feel assured that this is equally as valuable a treatise on all which relates
to the health and the diseases of nan.

It contains 475 pages, is in large, clear type, and is elegantly bound.

PRICE, $3.00.

These works for sale by all the principal booksellers, or sent, postpaid,
on receipt of price, by

J. LORING THAYER, 186 Tremont Street, Boston, Mass.

ASHMONT KENNELS

THOROUGHBRED ENGLISH |TLASTIFFS.

This is the most noted Kennel of the breed in
America.

It was here thai the largest pair of Mastiffs
on record were bred.

Weight of ASHMONT NERO, when thirteen
and one-half months old, 790 pounds; that of
his litter sister, LORNA DOOMNE, 2c, at the

same age, 165 pounds.

Puppies out of the most noted dogs of the

day always for sale.

Address,

ASHMONT KENNELS,
1101 TREMONT STREET, BOSTON, MASS,

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