sha pepei # ef

“aie 2
ermeaieis

nai olafaie
siersia(aleieielefel

avevererey Ter
feinie sees

Ses”

LL,

<<

rere

3 eiaielol eh
jopatcredetarspaiererey
she

o\oistebei=

rer je(etote
rere
peretaiaieferste

Spee Gajetate.et
fotetsinteretaleinia(t:

enn
Spe sietsist

oi Shee
(oe

53° University Library
TX 811.853 ss

of the food valu

|
‘aii NM T

Cornell University

Library

The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

http://www. archive.org/details/cu31924001362460

FRUIT RECIPES

BLOSSOMS AND IMMATURE FRUIT OF THE CERIMAN
OR “FAISE BREAD FRUIT”’’ (Monstera delicvosa)

Fruit Recipes

A Manual of the Food Values
of Fruits and Nine Hundred
Different Ways of Using Them

By
RILEY M. FLETCHER ee
\\

ILLUSTRATED FROM
PHOTOGRAPHS

oy
ae

“HOTEL ADMINIS

> 1 JUL 1
.. LIBRARY
NEW YORK
Doubleday, Page & Company
1907

we

Copyright, 1907, by
Doubleday, Page & Company
Published, March, 1907

All rights reserved,
including that of translation into foreign languages,
including the Scandinavian

eee

DEDICATED

TO

ALL MEN AND ALL WOMEN

INTERESTED IN FRUITS: AS SCIENTISTS—WHETHER IN THE LABORATORY, THE
KITCHEN, OR THE GARDEN; AS ARTISTS BY PROFESSION OR THOSE WHO
UNPROFESSIONALLY HAVE ARTISTIC APPRECIATION OF THIS TYPE
OF EARTH'S BEAUTY; AND TO THOSE WHO CLAIM SPECIAL
TRAINING IN NEITHER SCIENCE NOR ART BUT
SIMPLY AND THOROUGHLY ENJOY GOOD,

WHOLESOME COOKERY.

RILEY M. FLETCHER BERRY,

The Orchard of Palms,
Orlando, Florida.

PREFACE

DanizEL had good reason for his famous and witty after-
dinner speech when he remarked to the lions, ‘‘After you,
gentlemen, after you!’’ On the same principle prefaces
are often postponed. But I hope that you will read this
one before dining, that you may understand why such an
anomaly as both a discussion of the food values of fruits
and formulas for the practical preparation of fruit dishes
should be offered men as well as women.

Whatever mental attitude one may hold in relation to
foods, whether one makes meat the chief article of diet or ex-
cludes it, or follows a middle course, one uses fruit as one
does water: possibly as a luxury, possibly only because
other people use it, but always to some degree (unless one
be an Esquimau beyond even the reach of courageous
Arctic berries), and always, just as surely, in lesser degree
and with less appreciation of its real value than one should
use it.

Difference of age, of climate, of occupation, or consti-
tution make variation of kind and quantity of foods a
necessity, but, generally speaking—leaving out discussion
of the three types of necessary food elements: protein, or
nitrogen, the carbohydrates (including sugar and starches),
and fat—all this aside, it is agreed that human beings as
a class need more of the potash salts than they ordinarily
realise or take into their systems. The lack of proper pro-
portion of these salts lays the foundation for many troubles,
in simple and complicated form, which, however, may be
avoided by the substitution or inclusion of more fruit

Vil

viii FRUIT RECIPES

foods, for vegetables and fruits contain these necessary
salts in abundance. (See Note.)

Fruit juices furnish the most delightful form of pure
water, which is too apt to be considered, in the words of :
the Southern colonel, ‘‘good fuh pupposes of navigation,
but a mighty po’ drink.” The fruit form of acids is re-
freshing; it speedily furnishes energy to the muscular
system—the sugar being readily assimilated—and in
general or directly (as with the tropical papaw and pine-
apple) assists digestion. Each fruit has a special and
some of the general values; some of them meant only as
accessories to other foods, as a rule stimulants and purifiers,
containing chiefly the carbohydrates, and must be bal-
anced by fats, nitrogen, or protein, and foods containing
more cellulose. Some fruits require very little ‘‘balancing,”
being substantial and nearly perfect in themselves, as figs,
prunes, and the cocoanut, which last, when fresh, should be
ranked rather with fruits than nuts. The banana is a
substantial food, very rich in carbohydrates and ‘‘body”;
so also the persimmon. Grapes are nearly perfect from
a general point of view and the apple is unique in rank.

Acid fruits are not always to be recommended in com-
bination with starchy foods, and too much acid may be used,
but all people are not constituted alike: uncooked fruits
may or may not agree with one (though in general fruits
are best and more direct in effect uncooked and, whether
fresh or cooked, should be eaten with less sugar than is
the usual habit) and special. fruits or combinations may
be found undesirable. Some human beings need food
oftener than others or in greater quantity. Some need
to be reduced in flesh or the reverse. No ‘hard and
fast rules can be laid down; each one should realise the
value of fruits as a whole and of fruits individually and
should as thoroughly know his own needs.

PREFACE ix

Facts concerning the values of fruits have been widely
scattered, hidden behind masses of figures or buried in
scientific works. Figures and scientific terms are nec-
essary in their places, but those included here are only as
matters of reference. To be vitally interested is the first
requisite for learning “more and more.’’ Everyone has
not the gift for remembering figures and names, and to be
so burdened is often to stop one at the outset or detract
seriously from interest.

Many foundation recipes are included and explanations,
because this collection is meant quite as much for men who
are ‘‘batching it’? (perhaps having their first experiences
in cooking where strange fruits have to be dealt with) as
for women who rightly believe variety to be the spice of
life; and I have given as far as possible just what I myself
would many times have valued could someone have saved
my having to hunt through a great many volumes for all
I wished to know concerning the preparation of some
particular fruit, or for some general formula. which each
book usually takes for granted one already knows in exact
proportion.

I have included also a few old-time recipes because of
their great interest, from their age, to this generation, or
the superior results to be obtained from their use. The
housekeeping of earlier centuries seems elaborate and heavy
by contrast with the lighter, modern methods, but life as
a whole was simpler then than now and in attempting to
improve upon the old-fashioned ways we have dropped a
little too much, for there were certain quaint touches of
housewifely care: which exercised untold charm in many
directions. Were the old-time still-rooms in vogue to-day,
with their fragrant atmosphere of aromatic herbs, fruit-
cordials, brandies, and wines, patent medicines would find
few victims; the murderously adulterated liquors of

x FRUIT. RECIPES

foreign and domestic markets so generally used as mild
tonics as well as stimulants, would not be countenanced or
would be rated at their real standing and money value
from strict analysis. Fruits have medicinal or tonic value
which in cordials ‘‘go to exactly the right spot’; the old
fruit brandies were used for flavouring, and were far supe-
rior to the average, adulterated or cheap, weak stuffs we
have to buy to-day and which as a matter of course in-
clude alcohol.

As authorities I have consulted Haig’s ‘‘ Diet and Foods”;
Burnett’s ‘‘Foods and Dietaries’’; Holbraoks’s ‘‘Faod
and Work”; Williams’s ‘‘Chemistry of Cookery’”’; Fownes’s
‘Manual of Chemistry”; Remingtan’s ‘‘ Practice of Phar-
macy”; the Dispensatory of the U. S. (Woad and Bache),
the encyclopedias, American, Britannica, and Chambers’s;
Gray’s Botany; Helen Harcourt’s ‘Florida Fruits and
How to Raise Them”; Country Lije in America, Table
Talk, What io Eat, Harper’s Bazar, The Delineator, the
New England and all other of the leading periodicals per-
taining to the table and to health, and dazens of ‘‘cook
books.” Most of my recipes, however, are original or long
since adopted and adapted by family habit or traditions of
eooking of friends—Scotch, English, German, and Amer-
ican (ta whom I am much indebted), but endless consul-
tation and comparison for years has resulted in agreeing
with Solomon that, with national or individual exceptions,
change of name, or proportion of ingredient, ‘‘there is no
new thing under the sun.”

I wish also to express my thanks to Dr. Wiley, chief
chemist of the Agricultural Department, and to William
A. Taylor, H. E. Van Deman, G. B. Brackett, H. Harold
Hume, P. H. Rolfs, H. J. Webber, W. T. Swingle, R. B.
Handy, W. H. Evans, M. E. Jaffa, W. O. Atwater, Fred
V. Colville, and Deborah G, Passmore of this greatest of the

PREFACE xi

government departments as well as to the Department in
general. Such work, scientific, practical, and artistic,
cannot be overestimated, whether one is little or much
dependent upon it; for the results of these investigations
reach people who might never be reached in any other
way and yet influence those who have every other oppor-
tunity and scientific authority at hand, helping to sim-
plify everyday affairs; and we must—men and women—
live with eyes open to the practical power of the products
of the earth if we expect to live the sweetest, the simplest,
and so, the fullest lives.
R. M. FLeTcHER BERRY.

Note: Bicarbonate of potash in proportion of ‘about
an eggspoonful to a pound of ripe fruit, rather more in the
case of unripe fruits’”—(Burnett) is now given patients of
gouty and other types of cases with fruit—even with
lemons and tartest gooseberries—that they may have
fruit-diet, although until very recently it was supposed they
must be denied fruit.

R. M. F. B.

CHAPTER

CONTENTS

Weights and Measures. ‘ : . xix
Introductory Recipes eg ; i: 8

The Apple . F : 5 j . - 23
The Pear . : ; ‘ ‘ : » 49

The Quince . ; : ‘ A - 57
The Medlar and the ae : ‘ - 63
The Peach and Apricot . : ‘ . 66
The Cherry . ‘ : F ‘ ‘ . 81
The Plum . : F ; : Z - 93
The Northern Papaw ‘ . : . 106
The Wild Northern Persimmon . : . 107
The Grape . ‘ ; ‘ : Z - 108
The Olive . : ; ‘ 3 é - 122
Melons : ; ; : : é - 125
A Cluster of Berries . ‘ : : - 136
The Lemon . . : . 185

The ‘“ Wild,” ‘‘ Sour,”’ or Seville oe . 201
The Orange : : : é a - 211
The Citron, Bergamot, Limeberry,

Kumquat, and Trifoliata . , + 223
The Pomelo (or ‘Grape Fruit’’), aa
Tangelo, and Citrange . . 229

xiii

xiv

CHAPTER

XIX.
XX.
XXiI.
XXII.
XXITI.
XXIV.
XXV.

XXVI.
XXVIII.
XXVIII.
XXIX.
XXX.
XXXII.

XXXII.

CONTENTS—Continued 3

PAGE

The Pineapple. p . . . » 238.
The Banana a is . A 5 . 250
The Fig. : . . ‘ . 260
The Date—The Cocoanut . : ; . 271
The Japanese Persimmon . . ‘ . 283
The Guava . . . , : . 287

Rose and Malay Apples, Java Plum, Suri-
nam and Barbadoes ‘ Cherries,’’ and

Marmalade Box ‘ ‘i . » 295
The Pomegranate . : . : . 2907
The Avocado, ‘‘ Aguacate,” or ‘“ wee

Pear”’ . ‘ , 5 - 299

The Custard Apple, The Cherimoya, Sweet
‘and Sour Sop, and Pond Apple . 301

The Mangosteen—The Mammee Apple. 303

Sapodilla, Mammee Sapota, White Sapota,
Star Apple, Cocoa Plum and Egg
Fruit (or ‘Ti-es’’) . : ‘ - 305

Six of the More Familiar Tropical and
Semi-Tropical Fruits : ‘ - 3°7

Some of the Less Known Fruits : - 311

ILLUSTRATIONS

Blossoms and Immature Fruit of the Ceriman or

“False Bread Fruit’”’ : ; ; Frontispiece

(Courtesy of J. F. Allen, Orlando, Fla.) FACING PAGE

Blossoms of the Loquat Tree P 66
(Permission of G. L. Taber, Glen St. Mary, Fla.)

Loquat Tree . ; : 3 : . 66
(R. M. F. Berry, Orlando, Fla)

Chinese or Peen-to Peaches Grown in Florida . . 67
(J. C. E. Ensminger, Sanford, Fla.)

Spanish Cherries . : F : ‘ ‘ - 67
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Prune s ‘ 6 ‘ 118
(Permission of U.S. Bepiciunne of Agriculture)

Loquat or Japan “Plum” 118
(T. P. Robinson, Orlando, Fla.)

Japan Persimmon : ‘ : 118
(Permission of U. S. Department of Apis

Sea or Shore Grapes. , ; : : . 11g
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Sea or Shore Grape Tree : j ‘ i 11g
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Largest Grapevine in the World . : ‘ 122
(Courtesy of J. R. Peters [the owner), Carpenteria, Cal.)

Picking Olives. : : : . 123
(Graham Photo. Co., Los Ansaiis: Cal.

California Olives . F ‘i : é . 123
(Graham Photo. Co., Los Angeles, Cal)

Blossom of the Common Elder : : : . 176
(T. P. Robinson, Orlando, Fla.) k

xV

xvi ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

Perfection Currant ‘ 4 ‘ é 2 ?
(Permission of U. S. Department of Agriculture)

The Common “High Huckleberry” of the South .
(T. P. Robinson, Orlando, Fla.)

The French (black) Mulberry. ‘ ; : :
(T. P. Robinson, Orlando, Fla.)

California Lemons with Blossoms . : : :
(C. C. Pierce Company, Cal.)

Spanish Lime or Ginep . ‘ F : : :
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

The Seville Orange with Blossoms . ; : F
(R. M. F. Berry, Orlando, Fla.)

“Old Baldy” and Navel Oranges from the San
Gabriel Valley, California . ‘ é :
(“Old Baldy” by pete of E. T. Randall, rane Beach, Cal.)
(Navel Oranges by C. C. Allen, St. Petersburg, Fla.
Blossoms of the Sweet Orange : F ,
(C. C. Allen, St. Petersburg, Fla.)

Morton Citrange . ‘ ; ‘
(Courtesy of H. J. Webber, U.S. Depistnonh of Agriculture)

Rusk Citrange : ‘
(Permission of U.S. ee of Auta

Willits Citrange . ; ‘ : :

(Permission of U.S. Depavinent of Marinas)

Trifoliate Orange . : : ss :
(Permission of U. S. Department of Asreuaey

The Kumquat ‘ : ‘ r i
(T. P. Robinson, Orlando, Fla)

Trimble Tangerine : 3 ‘ :
(Permission of U. S. Department of Agriculture)

Grape-Fruit Tree . : ; ‘ ; ‘
(C. C. Allen, St. Petersburg, Fla.)

The Pomelo or ‘Grape-Fruit”
(J. C. E. Ensminger, Sanford, Fla.)

176

177

192

193

210
211
211
211
211
222
222
223

223

ILLUSTRATIONS Xvii

FACING PAGE
Sampson Tangelo ‘ P : : . 240
(Permission of U. S. Department of Agicdieups)

Pineapples Raised under Protection of Slatted Sheds 241
(C. C. Allen, St. Petersburg, Fla.)

North American Watermelons 5 F : . 241
( Howard, Orlando, Fla.)

The Banana. ; : : . 256
Bresson by J. C. E. ‘Giswianaet Sanford, Fla.)
Plants by courtesy of ay acob Shannebarger)

California Figs . ‘ ; ‘ . 257
(C. C. Pierce & Co., Los Siviie Cal.)

Bloom of the Date Palm . ‘ : , . | 274
(J. C. E. Ensminger, Sanford, Fla.)

Up in the Heart of 2 Date Palm . : i . 274
(R. M. F. Berry, Orlando, Fila.)

Wild Date Palm of India ; : ; j - 274

(Scowen & Co., Ceylon)

Gathering Cocoanuts . ; ‘ : a 295

Blossoms by i. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)
Palm by Lychenheim (on Co., Havana, Cuba)

Flat and Conical Japan Persimmons 3 : . 286
(T. P. Robinson, Orlando, Fla.)

Delmas Persimmon ‘ ‘ , . 286
(Permission of U. S. Department of Aevivitics’

Tropical Papaw . : : : . 287
(J. C. E. Ensminger, Santen Fila.) :

Apple and Pear Guavas ‘ ; ‘ : . 287
(R. M. F. Berry, Orlando, Fila.)

The Alligator Pear: Aguacate ; . : 290
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Pomegranates : ‘ : . 290
(Permission of G. L. Taber, Glen St. Mc ary, Fla, J

The Sweet Sop or Sugar Apple ; ‘ : . 291
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Xviii ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING PAGE

The Sour Sop : : ; ‘ : : - 291
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fia.)

Mammee Sapota . ‘ ; ‘ a ‘ . 302
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fila.)

The Mangosteen . : . . ‘ : - 302
(Scowen & Co., Ceylon)

The Sapodilla : : : i ‘ » 303
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.

The Bread Fruit . : ; 7 P - 303

(Photograph by Scowen & Co., Ceylon,
Conney oF eis Art Co., Boslon, ahass.)

The Prickly Pear . ‘ : . . A . gto
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Mammee Apple or St. Domingo Apricot . - «310
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Cashew Nut or Apple . ; F » gir
(Permission of P. W. Ri » Oneco, Fla.)

Fruit of Spanish Bayonet . . 3 : - grr
(T. P. Robinson, Orlando, Fla.)

The Tamarind. : . : ; . + 314
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Tamarind Tree. : ; : ‘ 3 + 314
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fla.)

Mulgoba Mango . : : P a : - 315

(Permission of U. S. Department of Agriculture’

One of the “Stringy Mangoes” F ‘ ‘ » 315
(F. W. Hunt, Key West, Fila.)

WEIGHTS AND

2 saltspoons
2 coffeespoons
60 drops

3 teaspoons (dry)

4 teaspoons (liquid)

4 tablespoons (liquid)

4 tablespoons (liquid)

8 large tablespoons or 2 wine
glasses

2 gills

1 cup”

2 cups or 32 tablespoons

2 pints or four cups

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup butter (solid)

1 rounding tablespoon butter

1 heaping tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon of liquid

MEASURES

equal

one coffee spoon

teaspoon
teaspoon
tablespoon
tablespoon
wineglass
half cup

gill

cup

half pint
pint

quart

half pound
half pound
ounce
ounce

half ounce

FRUIT RECIPES

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES

THERE are certain foundation formulas or recipes which
are applicable, with variations, to every known fruit, such
as blanc mange, custard, fruit soup, etc. These are given
below so that where special formulas are not given later
the general rule may be applied.

FRUIT SOUPS

Fruit Soups are usually served cold—where convenient
chilled on ice—in very small china or glass bowls or bouillon
cups. With this daintiness of service, however, it may be
forgotten or not realised that such soups are not to the
stomach mere empty, introductory flourishes, ‘whatever
the intent. Fruit soups are foods and as such are used in
many countries by even the peasants, though they may
lack delicate table appointments. It is true that a fruit
may be used which is not of itself substantial (though the
opposite may hold, as with prunes) but the sago, arrowroot,
or tapioca used for thickening furnishes a certain amount
of heat-producing material and where wine is added this
is increased, so it may readily be understood why, when
used in quantity, such combinations may approach, of
themselves “‘substantial meals’? or why, even in small
measure, fruit soups with but slight additions of foods
containing other balancing elements, may arrive at the
right to be chief “dish” of a luncheon or light supper.

As a general rule stewed fruit passed:-through a sieve may
have added to it an equal quantity of water and to each
pint a heaping teaspoon or scant dessertspoon of sago,
arrowroot (for which cornstarch may be substituted) or

3

4 FRUIT RECIPES

tapioca. Some instructors give the rule of a level table-
spoon of cornstarch to each pint of clear, pressed fruit-
juice, which, however, may be slightly diluted. The ar-
rowroot or cornstarch is a quicker process and should be
dissolved till smooth in a little cold water, added when the
fruit juice is at boiling point, then cooked till clear; mean-
time adding sugar, and later a tablespoon of lemon juice or
wine. If sago or tapioca is used it must be cooked till
thoroughly tender and translucent. A fruit soup made
of raspberries may serve as example of a lighter fruit soup
and the Swedish of those more substantial. See also the
Prune, the Apple, etc., or apply as convenience. and taste
dictate.

RED RASPBERRY SOUP

Add one pound granulated sugar to two quarts of red
raspberries well looked over and mashed. Let stand an
hour, then put through sieve. Heat gradually, stirring
carefully, and when at boiling point add a tablespoon of
cornstarch which has been dissolved in just a little cold
water. When clear, smooth, and thickened add a half-
pint of sherry, remove at once and let cool. When
ready to serve pour it over shaved ice in glasses.

SWEDISH FRUIT SOUP

Allow one-third part of apricots or prunes to two-thirds
dried apples, in proportion of a cup of the apples to two
quarts of water. Wash and soak over night in the water
(cold). In the morning place on the stove with a cup of
raisins or currants, or half and half, a sprinkling of cinnamon
and tablespoon of tapioca or sago. Add another quart
of cold water and simmer till fruits and tapioca or sago
are tender, Add a little sugar or salt as liked.

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 5

FRUIT SALADS

In preparing fruit salads there are several points to be
keptin mind: the general form of the salad, the combination
of the elements composing it; the dressing and the gar-
nishing. Remembering these, one may have infinite and
most appetising charm of variety. As to the form, the
salad may be served in delicate green or rosy apples, hol-
lowed out; in pears, like fashion; in small or large melons;
in tomato, pepper, or other vegetable casing; in the rinds
of the citrus fruits etc. The salad itself may be a mere
salad or it may have meat value by the addition of hard-
boiled eggs, nuts, chopped or whole ‘‘meats,’’ or, some-
times, even cheese. Popcorn furnishes a nourishing ad-
dition also. Celery or other dainty vegetable may be
combined with fruit, and of fruit itself not only the sub-
stantial but the delicate may be combined to attract
both eye and palate: bananas and melons, cubed, or
peaches (of similar substance) may be added to cherries,
to the candied angelica (traditionally ‘‘ good for the diges-
tion”), to currants, red or blue plums, or strawberries.
Pineapple and other southern fruits, as well as the
northern-known, juicy citrus family, may be added
to the delicate green cucumber, to pears and apples, or
to seeded grapes or olives. There is nothing which
cannot be artistically blended with something else in
the fruit or vegetable world, or with rose petals, candied
violets, etc.

The garnishing appeals to the eye but even the gayly-
graceful nasturtium has a spicily stimulating mission
stomachward. Cress may be either a garnish or the body
of the salad, as also may be lettuce, etc. But sprigs of
currants, white or red, may be used; parsley (a stimu-
lant in disguise); sprays of cherries or kumquats; or figs or
dates softly fresh or freshened. Or there may be a bed of

6 FRUIT RECIPES

vegetable or fruit gelatine; celery or tomato, lemon or
melon, and so on, endlessly.

The dressing is an important matter whether it be the
“simple”? French or a combination of flavoured secrets.
Olive oil requires virtually no digestion and furnishes an
immense amount of nourishment. But even yet there
are people who find it apparently impossible to cultivate
a taste for it and so eschew salads or substitute butter for
the oil. The oil, however, may be used with little or none
of the oil flavour, or whipped cream may be substituted
with pure fruit salads.

FRENCH DRESSING

Mix well one-half teaspoon each of salt and pepper with
one tablespoon of lemon juice (or fruit vinegar). Pour
this gradually, stirring the while, on three tablespoons of
olive oil. Toss the salad in this thoroughly. Melted
butter may be substituted for the oil.

SIMPLE MAYONNAISE

To the yolk of one egg allow about one cup of olive oil
and three tablespoons of lemon juice or strong, pure vine-
gar. To the yolk of the egg add one saltspoon of salt and
a dash of cayenne pepper or Tabasco, and a teaspoon of
either prepared mustard or Worcestershire Sauce. (These
may of course be omitted if preferred). Add a few drops
of oil to the whipped yolk and beat well with silver fork,
adding more oil, little by little, alternating with the acid
until the dressing is quite stiff and glossy. Keep ice-cold
until used. Also, this may be frozen (in glass) by burying
it in ice and salt for two hours. (Real olive oil con-
geals at higher temperature than other oils. If the oil is
merely labelled “‘ olive oil” it will not freeze so quickly.)

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 7

CREAM OR WHITE MAYONNAISE

This may be made with sweet or sour cream; if the for-
mer, having the cream whipped and adding in equal quan-
tity to mayonnaise already prepared. Sour thick cream
may be substituted, or whipped white of egg. This may
be coloured green with spinach juice or pink with berry-
syrup or cordials or with cochineal or maraschino.

COOKED MAYONNAISE

Put on the stove one teacup of vinegar and let it come to
a boil (in double vessel), adding three tablespoons sugar,
one teaspoon salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and six
mustard spoons of mixed or French mustard, with three
tablespoons of olive oil or melted butter. While this
mixture is heating beat well the yolks of three eggs, adding
at the last a dessertspoon of flour. Whip this lightly into
the heated vinegar, etc., and let cook till thick, stirring all
the while and never letting boil, Remove and cool. This
will keep a long time (for salad dressing) without ice.

OLIVE OIL AND CREAM FRUIT DRESSING

Use equal quantity of oil and cream. (The evaporated,
unsweetened cream will answer the purpose very nicely.)
The oil must be added gradually to the cream and mixed
shortly before serving or it will separate. Flavour this
with maraschino, or some other liqueur, brandy, or cordial,
and the oil is quite disguised.

WHIPPED CREAM DRESSING

A simple whipped cream may be substituted for an oil
dressing with fruits and may be flavoured with cordials or
liqueurs or not, as the fruit or one’s taste indicates.

8 FRUIT RECIPES

WHIPPED EGG FRUIT DRESSING

To the white of one egg allow a tablespoon of olive oil.
Whip first the egg,-adding oil gradually as in mayonnaise.
Flavour with lemon juice, salt, cayenne, etc., as for may-
onnaise, or substitute pure fruit cordials or liqueurs; fail-
ing these use a pure fruit syrup, fresh or preserved.

SOUR CREAM DRESSINGS

When cream is soured, but not old enough to be strong
(although it may be very thick), it may be used in several
ways for dressing: (1.) Rub smooth the yolks of four
hardboiled eggs, adding gradually fiye tablespoons of sour,
thick cream. Thin and flavour this with lemon or wild
orange juice or tarragon vinegar. (2.) Mix smooth in a
cup of sour cream a tablespoon of flour. Have heating
three tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar, and two of
butter, one-half teaspoon each of sugar and mustard, and
pinch of cayenne or paprika. Mix cream and flour in this
and cook three minutes, stirring the while. Just before
removing from fire add the stiff whipped whites of two eggs.
Remove and cool. (3.) Thick, fresh, sour cream may
be used uncooked, with lemon juice or a thick syrup or
cordial flavouring. Just before serving the whipped
whites of twe eggs may be added, but this cannot stand
long and the egg is not necessary.

SIMPLE BISCUIT DOUGH

Sift one teaspoon of salt and two (rounding) of baking
powder through one quart of flour and rub into the whole
one heaping tablespoon of shortening. In the centre pour
gradually one pint of sweet milk, or part milk and part
water, making a soft dough with as little mixing as pos-
sible. Roll out; cut and bake quickly.

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 9

DROP BISCUIT OR SCONES

Where drop biscuit or scones are wished drop the dough
by the spoonful (size desired) on to well greased pan—
instead of rolling out—while the dough is yet not in the
smooth, harder condition required for rolling and cutting.

SHORT-CAKE (Plain)

To each pint of flour allow one dessertspoon of shortening
(or one tablespoon if a richer dough is preferred), one
dessertspoon of sugar, one heaping teaspoor baking pow-
der, and a half teaspoon of salt. Roll out and bake in two
sheets (either round or square tins), and bake about twenty
minutes in a rather quick oven. Separate the sheets with
a fork and pour or spread over them the prepared fruit.
‘Or the dough may be rolled thinner, buttered, and folded
over so that the sheets may be opened more readily. ‘For
further directions see Strawberry Shortcake.)

PASTRY FOR PIES AND TARTS

1. Potato Paste (Without Shortening)
To three-fourths pint very mealy potatoes add a half
teaspoon salt and sufficient flour to make quite stiff. Soften
this with cream sufficiently to roll out easily. Bake quickly.

2. Oatmeal Paste (Without Shortening)
Scald two cups fine oatmeal with one cup boiling water,
mixing thoroughly. Roll thin and line pie-tins, then bake
lightly belore filling with pie mixture.

3. Pastry Made with Cream

One and three-fourths pints flour in which has been
sifted a half teaspoon each of baking powder and salt.
Mix into this quickly one cup of cream, rolling thin the

Io FRUIT RECIPES

resulting dough. Spread on this one dessertspoon of but-
ter; fold over and roll out again.

4. Bread Dough Paste

Roll shavings of butter in bread dough, rolling out and
spreading it three times.

5. Plain Pastry with Shortening

With three cups flour sift one teaspoon salt and one-half
teaspoon baking powder. Rub or cut into this three-
fourths cup of shortening. Moisten with ice water just
enough to bind together and roll out. Fine-chopped, fresh
beef suet may be used: one-half cupful to each cup of flour.

Make a funnel of stiff white paper and insert in top crust
with covered fruit pies and the juice will not run out at
the edges. (Where the lower crust is baked before adding
the tart or pie ‘‘filling’’ or the under crust is omitted,
pies and tarts may be light, flaky, and digestible as well as
delicious and few need be debarred their old-fashioned
delights.)

EGGLESS CAKE

One and one-half cups sugar; one-half cup shortening,
two cups sweet milk; three and a half cups flour, in which
has been sifted the baking powder (three rounding tea-
spoons) and a pinch of salt. If other shortening than but-
ter is used a tablespoon of brandy or other liquor will dis-
guise any possible suggestion, but other flavouring may be
added as well without conflicting.

ONE-EGG CAKE

One and a half cups sugar; one-half cup shortening;
one cup sweet milk; one egg; three and one-fourth cups
flour; three rounding teaspoons baking powder, and
pinch of salt. Flavouring as wished.

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 11

ONE-TWO-THREE-FOUR CAKE

One cup each of butter and milk; two scant cups sugar;
three cups flour; four eggs; two small teaspoons baking
powder.

SIMPLE SPONGE CAKE

Three-fourths cup sugar; one cup sifted flour; one and
one-half teaspoons baking powder; two eggs beaten with
the sugar; a pinch of salt; two large (kitchen) tablespoons
cold water; any flavouring desired. (If wine is used sub-
stitute one tablespoon of it for one of water). This makes
a small cake.

FRUIT CAKES

The generally accepted unwholesomeness of fruit cakes
is chiefly based on the fact that the condensed nutriment
of such cakes is not realised and they are eaten ‘‘on top of”’
too much other food or in too great quantity at any time.
The dried fruits contain concentrated nourishment and
should be eaten sparingly as well as at proper time, with
thorough mastication.

WHITE FRUIT CAKE (German Recipe)

Beat together one cup of butter and two of sugar; add
one-half glass white wine and then the stiff-whipped whites
of eight eggs. Now add gradually three cups of flour, in
which two teaspoons of baking powder have been sifted,
and at the last one-quarter pound fine cut citron, one-half
pound chopped almonds, one teacup of light-coloured
currants and one-half cup grated cocoanut. Bake slowly
about two hours, until it does not stick to the slenderest
straw.

12 FRUIT RECIPES

BLACK FRUIT CAKE (German Recipe)

Cream well one pound each of butter and sugar and add
a good glass of brandy, three cups of flour, in which have
been sifted five teaspoons of baking powder, one cup of
water, the juice and grated rind of one lemon, six well-
beaten eggs, and one pound each of well-prepared currants,
raisins, figs, dates, and prunes. Bake three hours.

PLAIN BOILED ICING (With Egg)

To a cup of granulated sugar add one-half cup water and
let boil till it strings from spoon or hardens slightly in cold
water. Have ready the whipped white of an egg (or two)
and on this pour the boiling syrup, beating with silver fork.
Add flavouring and when the icing has thickened a little
spread on the cake.

ICING WITH WATER ONLY

To a half cup of boiling water add sufficient confection-
er’s sugar to make of convenient stiffness for spreading.

SOFT ICING (Without Egg)

Use one-third part of water to granulated sugar and let
boil without stirring till it threads or ‘‘ropes’? when re-
move and let stand till barely warm. Beat then till dough-
like and knead till creamy. This will keep if placed in glass
in a cool spot. When needed place in double boiler with
hot water in outer vessel and stir till sufficiently soft to
use, then flavour.

FRUIT BUTTER

Chop together equal parts of stoned raisins, dates, and
figs and add (after weighing) nuts equal in weight to the
whole. The nuts may be mixed according to convenience

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 13

or taste, as one part each of black and white walnuts,
pecans, almonds, peanuts, hazel or Brazil nuts. Mix
thoroughly together and pack in a mould for slicing.

GERMAN FRUIT BROD

Stew separately one pound dried apples and two pounds
each of apricots, prunes, and pears, and when quite done
mix together, adding two pounds raisins and a pound each
of chopped citron and nuts. Also add one pound sugar,
one-half teaspoon cloves, and one teaspoon each of all-
spice, anise, and cinnamon. Set a dough with flour and
plenty of yeast but dampen only with the juice cooked out
of the fruit. Let rise, and bake slowly two hours or more.

BREAD FOR FRUIT TOAST

At noon put to soak one cake of yeast in one-half pint
lukewarm water and when thoroughly dissolved stir with
it sufficient flour to thicken well into rather a stiff batter.
Let rise till just before ‘‘bed time.”” Then add one quart
and a half-pint lukewarm milk (or one five-cent can
evaporated cream diluted to equal above quantity); one
heaping tablespoon shortening; one dessertspoon salt;
three-fourths cup sugar and flour to make a moderately
stiff bread dough (as if for last working). Work just a
little, then set to rise (covered) in place free from draughts.
This will be ready to make up by about six o’clock next
morning (depending somewhat of course upon the
temperature). Work out into individual loaves and set
to rise again. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Have
oven at moderate temperature at first, then increase the
heat as the loaves come up. This will make four ‘brick
loaves.”

To each loaf may be added one and a half cups of chop-

14 FRUIT RECIPES

ped nuts (preferably peanuts), but the nut bread must not
be allowed to become stale or rancid. Served with fruit
and the fruit juice this combination gives an excellent
proportion of the food values required by the body for
nourishment and in sufficient quantity is of itself a good
luncheon or breakfast.

BATTER PUDDING

This is an old-fashioned foundation batter pudding
which may be used plain with a fresh or stewed fruit sauce
or the fruit cooked with the pudding. The pudding may
be baked in a buttered dish for thirty-five minutes or
boiled in a close-covered mould in rapidly boiling water
for two hours.

To a pint of cold milk allow two eggs, a little salt, and
four tablespoons of flour. Sufficient for four people.

BATTER FOR FRUIT FRITTERS

To one cup of flour add a good pinch of salt and a half
teaspoon of baking powder, then sift. Into the middle of
this stir two beaten eggs and a half cup each of milk and
sugar, then beat well. One egg only may be used, in which
case add a half teaspoon of baking powder.

PLAIN BOILED CUSTARD AND FLOAT

To each quart of milk allow four or five eggs and three
tablespoons of sugar, beating the sugar with the yolks of
the eggs before adding the milk. The whites may be
whipped separately with a tablespoon of sugar and used as
a meringue or whipped lightly into the body of the custard
as preferred. The custard may have added to it a tea-
spoon or more of dissolved cornstarch. This may also be
baked, placing the custard in cups or one dish, baking
carefully in moderate oven in an outer vessel of water.

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 15

Float is a thinner form of custard and for this three or
four eggs may be used with a little cornstarch. Neither
the thicker, ‘‘boiled’’ custard or float should be allowed to
boil but (in a double boiler) cooked just under boiling point
and watched carefully while it thickens.

PLAIN CORNSTARCH BLANC MANGE

Allow three heaping tablespoons of cornstarch to one
quart of milk, wetting and dissolving it with a little of
cold milk. Heat the rest of the milk to boiling point with
three tablespoons of sugar and pinch of salt. Add to it the
dissolved cornstarch and cook gently about flve minutes,
adding at the last the flavouring desired. Eggs may be
used with this if the perfectly smooth stiffness is not de-
sired. In this case have eggs ready whipped, the whites
alone (one or two or more) or both yolks and whites; pour
in and beat lightly with the mixture just before removing.
Place in a wetted mould to cool and chill before serving.

PLAIN TAPIOCA OR SAGO

Allow one-half cup tapioca or sago to one quart of cold
milk. Let soak in part of the milk till softened well.
Place the rest of the milk meantime in double boiler to heat
with two tablespoons sugar and half teaspoon salt. When
the sago or tapioca is softened add to the heated milk
and cook till thick. The sugar may be omitted and a little
butter substituted. Also, for a richer pudding, two eggs
may be added, whipped (with flavouring) and beaten
in just before removing from the fire.

For the plainest form add no milk or egg, substituting
fruit juice or wineand pouring over the fruit desired. How-
ever the white of an egg whipped stiff gives lightness in
texture and taste.

16 FRUIT RECIPES

PLAIN GELATINE

Soak one box gelatine in three-fourths pint of cold water
till dissolved, when add one quart boiling water, the juice
of three lemons (or other fruit juice) and sugar to taste
(about two cups will make this moderately sweet). Let
cool, then set on ice to harden. In hot weather reduce
somewhat the quantity of water used. Or use three pints
fruit juice (no water) to one box of gelatine, soaking it in
part of the juice. Proceed as above

“SPONGE”

A “sponge” may be made by the addition of whipped
white of egg to plain gelatine (as above).

ITALIAN OR SPANISH AND BAVARIAN CREAMS

The so-called Italian and Spanish creams are founded
upon a gelatine mixture with the addition of eggs, while
the Bavarian Cream in general substitutes whipped cream
for eggs. Very simple forms of these are here given:

1. Spanish or Italian Cream

Dissolve one-half box gelatine by barely covering it
with cold water, letting stand an hour or more. Mean-
time make a custard with one pint milk, three-fourths cup
of sugar, a pinch of salt, and, when at boiling point, the
yolks of three eggs (beaten with part of the sugar), whipped
in with the dissolved gelatine. Beat and stir a few minutes
then remove, add flavouring and the whites of the eggs
whipped very stiff. Let cool and set on ice to chill.

2. Bavarian Cream

Dissolve one-half box gelatine in one-half cup water.
Heat to boiling point a cup of milk with a half cup of sugar
and pinch of salt. Add the softened gelatine, then strain

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 17

and add flavouring. Beat till it begins ta cool and
thicken when add lightly a pint of cream well whipped
and place on ice to harden.

ICE CREAM AND ICES

For a plain foundation ice cream use equal quantity of
new milk and cream. Heat to boiling point (not beyond)
adding one cup of sugar with a pinch of salt. Let cool
before adding fruit juice or pulp, or both, with perhaps
a little lemon juice to bring out the flavour. It is often
advisable, where the fruit juice is uncooked or very tart, to
partially freeze the cooled cream and milk before adding
the juice.

About one heaping teaspoon of gelatine (dissolved before
adding) for each pint of the milkand cream gives the smooth-
ness of a mousse, which is also attained by the addition of
whipped cream.

Evaporated cream or condensed milk may be used with
excellent results.

Whipped cream and the whipped whites of eggs in equal
portion may be frozen and merely flavoured with fruit
juice or have added an equal part of sweetened fruit pulp.

FROZEN CUSTARD

To one quart of heated milk add three well-beaten eggs,
one cup of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Cool, add the fruit
or juice desired, and freeze. With custard, also, it is
sometimes best to partially freeze before adding to it the
fruit juice.

FRUIT ICES AND SHERBETS
Make a syrup in general proportion of one quart of

water to a pound of sugar with a pinch of salt and boil five
minutes. The sweetness or tartness of the fruit used

18 FRUIT RECIPES

necessitates varying the amount of sugar. When cold add
to the syrup a pint of fruit juice, also pulp if wished.

Sherbets or ‘‘sorbets’’ are made by adding to the ice made
as above, when partially frozen, the whipped white of an
egg (or two if liked) for the above quantity, or with a
little sugar added.

Granites are coarse-grained ices packed in the can and
set away without stirring till the expiration of an hour when
the sides are scraped fresh and the mixture re-packed.
This is twice repeated. Itis not until the ice is scraped and
stirred that the fruit is added, lightly mixed in. ,

FRUIT JUNKET

Make with junket tablets according to given directions
on all such packages. Fill large dish or individual serving
cups or sherbert glasses with fruit, fresh or stewed, sweet-
ened, about one-half full, On this pour the tablet when
dissolved according to instructions. Let this “‘set”’ till
quite firm before placing on ice to chill.

SOUFFLES

The connection is immediate between the word soufflé,
or the souffié concoction, and the French verb souffler:
to inflate; to swell; to blow out, etc., the foundation of
souffiés being the whipped egg which rises and falls again.
Two simple forms of soufflé are here given which may be
adapted to any fruit or its juice.

1. Simple Souffié

Separate six eggs; add a pinch of salt to the whites and
whip till ‘“‘dry.”” Whip separately three of the yolks then
fold in lightly with the whites, adding a tablespoon of any
fruit juice and sprinkling sugar over the top. Bake
quickly in hot oven ten minutes.

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES 19

2. Soufflgé—With Cooked Foundation

Take two tablespoons each of butter and flour; rub
smooth and add to a pint of scalding milk (in double boiler).
Cook till thick. Add yolks of three eggs and three table-
spoons sugar, stirring two minutes, then removing and cool-
ing. Add fruit juice or pulp as wished then fold in the
stiff-whipped whites of the eggs and bake ten or fifteen
minutes in individual souffié dishes. If made into one large
soufié the baking will require about thirty-five minutes.

SIMPLE OMELET

There is a difference of opinion among cooks as to the
beating of the eggs for omelets, many holding that the
yolks and whites should be whipped separately, and others
that it makes no difference, but that twelve strokes. given
to yolks and whites together is all sufficient. Use three
eggs; if double the quantity is required make in separate
omelet pans. Four tablespoons of milk may be added for
three eggs. Many people also prefer the addition of a
teaspoon of flour. Sprinkle salt and pepper on the eggs
before beating them and have the pan heating, placing in
it a tablespoon of butter. When the latter is ‘‘sizzling”’
pour in the omelet and let set. When browned turn one
side over on the other then toss onto the serving platter.

TO CAN FRUIT ’

As a general proportion allow two cups of water to one of
sugar for the lighter canning syrup. Prepare the fruit
and pack closely in the jars to be used, which should be
sterilised by placing cans, rubbers, funnel, spoons, and
tops in cold water, bringing to boiling point and boiling for
five minutes. Meantime have ready the syrup, skimming
when it has boiled. (Very little water should be used with the

20 FRUIT RECIPES

juicy fruits and the amount of sugar may be lessened or
omitted entirely if the fruit is to be used for cooking pur-
poses.) Place the fruit in the hot jars, (tops loose) filling up with
thesyrup; then putjarsin a boiler on afalse bottom of slats,
perforated wood, or some soft material (as hay or cloth)
having the surface even, and so packing in the jars with the
hay, etc., that they donot touch or move about with the mo-
tion of the (later) boiling water. Fill the boiler to the necks
of the jars with lukewarm water; place the boiler-cover on
over the fire and let water heat gradually. Afterit reaches
boiling point let it boil twenty minutes for small fruits and
longer for the heavier kinds, then remove the cover; pull
the boiler back for convenience when the steam has disap-
peared. Remove the jars singly, plating them in a shallow
pan of boiling water; fill up with boiling syrup and seal.
Be sure that all air bubbles are gone. Place again on perfor-
ated board to cool where there are no draughts. The covers
may have to be tightened before setting away.

Another method is to fill the jars with the fruit, adding
a half cup of granulated sugar for each pint of fruit, sift-
ing it into the jars (with no water). Proceed then as above
till jars are to be removed when fill each one up with boil-
ing water or boiling syrup (either syrup prepared or from
one of the other jars of fruit).

Set jars in a dark place, or wrap each one in paper.
The old rule for the richer preserves is pound for pound of
sugar and fruit.

For jelly the general rule is pint for pound of fruit juice
and sugar, but this must vary with the kind or condition
of fruit. With very sweet fruit the quantity of sugar
should be less than the measure of syrup. Avoid making
jelly (or icing or candies) on rainy or damp days. Choose
a dry and if possible a sunny day. Never squeeze the
fruit in jelly-bag but first wring out the bag in hot water

INTRODUCTORY RECIPES . al

to avoid any waste of juice. In using spices place them
in cheesecloth bags and remove them before the jars are
sealed for the more delicate pickles or spiced fruits as
the spice will darken the fruit and tend to make it look
old (see Citron Melon in Jelly, under Melons),

PRESERVED FRUIT SYRUPS

With some fruits the juice may be preserved without
sugar, aS with some grapes and with currants. For syrups
to be used for sauces, drinks, frozen desserts, etc., measure
juice and add half the amount of sugar. Half this amount
of sugar will suffice for an ordinary preserved fruit juice.
Bring to boiling point then strain; re-heat; boil five minutes
and bottle.

TO MULL WINE

To one pint of wine add one fourth pint of water which
has been steeped with one teaspoon each of mace, cinna-
mon, and cloves. Sweeten to taste.

FRUIT LOZENGES

Cherries, currants, or other tart fruits may be made into
the old-fashioned lozenges by adding one-third pint (or
less) of sugar to each pint of thick, strained fruit juice,
simmering together forty minutes and adding when at
boiling point two tablespoons gelatine dissolved in a very
little cold water. Stir well, remove, and continue stirring
till it begins to cool and thicken when pour into buttered
earthen pans. Let dry slowly, sprinkle with sugar during
the process, and cut into shapes liked.

COOKED SOFT CREAM CANDY FOR STUFFING FRUITS

Where confectioner’s sugar is not used with white of
egg (uncooked), making stiff enough to roll, the following

22 FRUIT RECIPES

will be found satisfactory: Take two pounds of white
sugar and one teacup of water or milk, boiling till just
before it threads from spoon if water is used, if milk, till
it thickens and can be softly rolled when dropped in water
(‘the soft ball stage’). Flavour with vanilla or fruit

juice. Remove and stir till creamy.

CLEAR FRUIT CANDY

Instead of using water, as above, use some tart fruit
juice and let cook without stirring till it strings from the

spoon.
FROSTED FRUITS

Frost as for Grapes (see Grape Snow).

CHAPTER I
THE APPLE (Malus malus: Malacee)

HE apple is of all fruits the most entirely taken for
granted. It has become as much a matter of
‘course as the universe itself and just as naturally stands at
the head of the fruits as does the sun among the heavenly
bodies (of familiar, ‘“‘speaking’’ aquaintance). And, as
its first letter gives it front rank in the alphabet and primers
so has the name of apple appealed first—foremost—to the
imaginations of men and the fruit to their palates from
the time of the earliest relation (not to say actual occur-
rence!) of the story of Adam and Eve. Otherwise, why
the apple instead of some one of the numerous delicious
and more delicate southern fruits? It is substantial,
firm, yet gracious and sunny; eminently practical; thus
one may say, fitted in every way to stand the wear and tear
of the ages. In poetry, folk-lore, and even history, no
fruit has been more often referred to; its beauty and whole-
someness more constantly eulogised; standing out as the
type of pomological excellence. Men it is who chiefly
have written poetry and history, however divided their
responsibility in the creation of beauty and facts, and men,
like the apple, are eminently practical. Yet are men’s
hearts and minds not always won through the gastronomic
channel or the appeal of the practical. The wild crab,
supposed to be the earliest type of apple, lacked as a fruit
some of the excellence of evolution, but there is yet, in
these later ages, no flower, wild or cultivated, which can
rival the wild crab-apple blossom in rare fragrance and
23

24 FRUIT RECIPES

delicacy of beauty; none which even approaches its magi-
cal perfume and charm save the sweet olive (Olea jrag-
rans). It is sufficient in its marvellous witchery to cap-
tivate and inspire rhapsody in the most practical—in even
unimaginative, primeval man. And so, to its possession
of unusual virtues and beauty has been added (happily,
save in the instance of Adam) the appreciation of men;
therefore the preéminence of the apple.

This first of fruits is known in Arabia and other southern
countries but is essentially a product of the colder, more
bracing climes; one fitted by its combination of refreshing
acids, substantial bulk and stimulating juice, its possi-
bilities in natural or (whether cooked or dried) preserved
state, as food or drink, to give in such latitudes just that
degree of comfort to man’s physical organism, material for
the playful exercise of the intellect and innocent revel of the
esthetic senses which are required for complete human en-
joyment. It is concentrated power which may be applied
toward the establishment and preservation of health; a
dynamo possessing and giving out in its flavour, texture,
and its action upon the body that vigorous poise neces-
sary to offset any possible ill effects from long continued
seasons of cold, when the earth rests and humanity is
prone to become careless and let the blood and liver grow
sluggish.

The juice of the apple combines extremes; the sparklé
of sunshine and the sparkle of frost-time, the sun’s glow
laughing out in the working warmth of winter cider, the
frost-touch cooling the blood in the seasons of the sun.
Joel Benton claimed that ‘‘the apple bears a very pertinent
relation to the brain, stimulating life and activity, which
it does by its immense endowment of phosphorus, in which
element it is said to be richer than anything in the vege-
table kingdom.” Even though the value or proportion

THE APPLE 25

of phosphorus, whether in apples or fish, is now considered
no greater than that of other food elements; this is an in-
teresting statement as proving the earlier, generally ac-
cepted wholesomeness of apples and as a reminder that in
former days men of marked mental achievement prized
and placed first in their fruit affections and habits of eat-
ing, the apple, publicly proclaiming and protesting their
admiration for it. And one who nowadays has even oc-
casionally felt the stimulation and refreshment of this fruit
can well believe that a comparatively steady diet of it
might prove conducive to brain activity and general well
being. To-day, through improved methods of cultivation
and better shipping facilities, we have more kinds of foods
fresh, canned, or concocted, so that the world indulges less
freely in such simple pleasures of diet as cider and apples
and has, by this gain, ina sense undoubtedly lost. Other
fruits are also of value but to be less bound by the modern
slavery of the ‘‘necessity’’ of luxuries, whether imported
and expensive (because less easily obtainable) fruits, or
tich foods of other kinds, in winter or summer, would tend
to simpler and more powerful directness of thought and
strength of brain.

Pomologically speaking, the apple is the Malus malus,
broadly considered, of the great Rose Family, and twin
relative of the pear, yet somewhat more positive in char-
acter. Its bulk makes it of as much proportionate value
as a food as do its juices—preventing necessity of medicine.
Malic acid, that great germ destroyer, is the most prominent
of its acids, but itssalts—its phosphates, are of equal balance
in keepingliver, stomach, andintestines in healthful activity.
An uncooked apple eaten at night before retiring (a glass
of water to follow it) is one of the oldest of beauty and
health prescriptions, preventing or relieving constipation,
and giving clearness of complexion. The uncooked apple

26 FRUIT RECIPES

was of old considered Nature’s complement for nuts, the
eating of them together offsetting too great richness (by
over-indulgence) of nut-fat and preventing indigestion.
Salt was eaten with them at night to assist in digesting
acid and fat: the three forming a notable trio. Cooked,
the apple is also laxative, tonic and nourishing.

Fresh, sweet cider, bubbling with beauty, scintillating
with sun-shafts, needs neither poetry nor spiking to recom-
mend it, so evident is its simple wholesomeness to even the
wayfaring man unless he be a fool. The crab-apple’s
juice (‘‘ver-juice’’) is not pleasing until well fermented
but in age (at even but three years) attains similarity to
champagne. Medicinally ver-juice is valued. It should
be mentioned here that the common crab-apple and the
Siberian crabs are of different species, the latter being
Pyrus baccata and Pyrus prunifolia.

Cider (with the possibility of gingerbread) and apples,
salt, and nuts at the old time gatherings ‘‘ by early candle-
lighting’’ were more apt to be followed by sleep and health
than the complicated ‘‘refreshments’’ at later hours of
modern evening parties. When it is realised that in any
reasonable form, a diet of apples rivals the famous grape-
cures and is a diet conducive to beauty, this old-fashioned
first of fruits must certainly come back into favour and be
given its former prestige.

The following is the analysis of a pint of the cider given
regularly to day-labourers in the agricultural districts of
England (according to Voelker; Enc. Brit.):

Gum and Albuminous
Water Alcoho GrapeSug. Extractive Matter Malic Acid Ash Compounds
829241 367.60 31.67 45.05 44.86 18.38 1.04

grs. gis. grs. grs. grs. grs. grs.

THE APPLE 24

RECIPES

OLD-FASHIONED APPLE SAUCE

Pare, core, and quarter tart apples and at supper time
place in a small crock on the back of the (warm) stove,
pouring over the apples a pint of sugar dissolved in a cup
of hot water. Cover the crock close and let stand till
morning when the apples will be tender and may be served
as a breakfast dish or set aside to be chilled for luncheon

or supper.
CIDER APPLE SAUCE

Pare, core, and wash apples (two-thirds sweet, one-
third sour), and place in preserving kettle with one quart
of cider for each pailful of apples. Simmer slowly till of
a deep colour. Quinces may be added to the sauce to give
flavour; a dozen or less as taste indicates. Put away in
stone jars.

STEWED APPLES AND DATES

Where unripe, insipid apples are the only ones available
they may be improved in flavour and nutritive value by
adding a half cup or more of stoned, sliced dates to each
quart of partially stewed apples. Simmer the fruit to-
gether about six minutes and set aside to cool. The
grated rind of a lemon (which, if preferred, may be tied
in a bit of linen) or the juice of a lemon, placed with the
apples when first put on, pleasantly varies the flavour.

APPLES AND PRUNES OR RAISINS

These also are combinations affording much nourish-
ment and variety and may be made with either dried or
fresh apples. If dried wash, core, and soak over night
and wash the raisins or prunes, working the latter well
with the hands. Let them stand in the last water over

28 FRUIT RECIPES

night and simmer in it in the morning. (The water in which
the fruit was soaked should be sufficient to cook it all in
the morning.) Simmer the raisins or prunes very slowly
for an hour then add the soaked apples and simmer to-
gether till done. No sugar should be needed, which is an
additional reason for the healthfulness of the dish.

BAKED APPLES (With nuts or honey)

Peel the apples and core well, then place in deep pan,
allowing a heaping tablespoon of sugar and half a cup of
water to each apple. In the centre of each apple place a
teaspoon of chopped nuts and strip of lemon or orange peel
and over the whole sprinkle cinnamon and nutmeg. Bake
very slowly and the juice will become jelly-like. Serve
hot or cold.

Or, fill centres with honey and alittle butter, preparing
otherwise the same.

APPLE SOUP No.1

For three pints of soup take a pint of apple stewed soft,
rubbed through colander and sweetened, and to it add
one and one-half tablespoons sago or tapioca cooked till
soft and clear in a pint of boiling water. Simmer together
twenty minutes, flavouring with salt and cinnamon;
strain and serve hot or chilled.

APPLE SOUP No. 2

To two quarts of water allow seven tart apples cored
but unpeeled, sliced thin. Cook them with one-half cup
rice till soft then rub through sieve, add spice, a little sugar,
and chopped or candied fruit. (See also Fruit Soups in
Introductory Recipes.)

THE APPLE 29

APPLE OMELET No.1

Make Plain Omelet as in Introductory Recipes. When
cooked sufficiently to fold over, place on one-half of it a
cup of apple sauce or fine-chopped apple; fold over and
serve.

APPLE OMELET No. 2

Stew, then mash, eight large apples and put through
colander. Add one cup sugar and one tablespoon butter.
Let cool; whip in four eggs beaten separately; place in
baking- or souffié-dish in rather quick oven and bake
till brown.

APPLE SALADS

Green or red uncooked apples may be scooped out and
filled with popcorn nuts, celery, arid some fruit other than
the apple, mixed with its cubed pulp, bound together with
mayonnaise. Garnish with nasturtium or grape or other
graceful leaves. Chopped apple makes an agreeable
addition to almost any of the vegetable and many of the
fruit salads.

APPLE SANDWICHES

Spread thin bread with Apple Cheese (see recipe) or
chopped uncooked apple mixed with nuts.

APPLE CROQUETTES

Core, pare, and slice tart apples sufficient for one pint.
Stew these with a dessertspoon each of butter and water—
carefully, not to burn—then mash as for apple sauce.
Place in double boiler and cook till reduced and the apple
seems dry. Have ready one-third cup of cornstarch mixed
smooth with a little cold water and stir into the apple with
a pinch of salt added. Let cook fifteen minutes, just
before removing adding one beaten egg, whipping as it

30 ‘FRUIT RECIPES

cooks, then place ail in a flat, wet mould or deep dish and
set aside to cool. When needed drop a teaspoon of the
mixture into fine, dry, bread or cracker crumbs, then into
an egg beaten, andagain into crumbs. Place in the basket
of deep ftving kettle in boiling fat until brown. Drain
and serve with fowl. These croquettes may be spiced or
flavoured with lemon.

BAKED APPLES TO SERVE WITH MEAT

Wash and core cooking apples and fill with equal parts of
crumbs and mushrooms or potatoes. Season with catsup,
Chili sauce, or herbs. Place applesin baking dish with a
bit of butter in each and a little water. Bake till tender.

FRIED APPLES

Tart apples, pared, quartered and baked, are better than
apples fried but to cook the latter with delicate effect
place a lump of butter in a saucepan and when heated
spread on it a layer of quartered and again divided or
finer-sliced apples. Sprinkle with sugar and a little flour
letting brown, turning, and browning upon second side.

Tart apples and onions (two-thirds apples) may be
fried or baked together as indicated for apples alone.

APPLE FRITTERS

Sliced apples may be dipped in fritter batter (see Intro-
ductory Recipes) or chopped apples added to a stiffer
batter, and fried in deep kettle. Drain and sprinkle with
sugar.

APPLE PIE

Peel and slice tart apples and place in stewpan with barely
enough water to keep from burning. Stew till but half
tender (and unbroken); fill a pastry-lined dish or pan,

THE APPLE 31

which has sugar and butter sprinkled and dotted over
the bottom, with layers of the apple, alternating with the
sugar and butter till dish is full. On top sprinkle flour and
nutmeg or cinnamon or grated lemon peel and pour over
the whole three-fourths cup of the apple-syrup or water
and sugar. Place a pastry cover over the top and slash
well. The pastry lining should be baked till a light brown
before the apples are added. For the paste see Intro-
ductory Recipes.
APPLE CUSTARD PIE

For one large pie use one pint of apple sauce and a table-
spoon of butter, the yolks of three eggs beaten well with a
pinch of salt and half a cup of sugar. Beat this into a
pint of hot milk and bake in shallow tin or dish lined with
crust. (Pastry must be baked before pouring in the
custard). Flavour with lemon or spice. When done
spread over the top a meringue made with the whites of
the eggs and a half cup of sugar.

APPLE TART

Fill a baking dish with apple sauce mixed with two
tablespoons of apricot or lemon marmalade. Finish as for
apple custard pie, dotting the top with chopped citron or
candied cherries or angelica. Or a simple meringue may

be substituted.
ENGLISH APPLE TART

Core and pare tart apples; stew whole with as little
water as possible till tender, though unbroken. Line the
edges of a baking dish with thin pie paste; fill centre of
the dish with the apples, in the middle of each dropping
a little orange or other marmalade. Cover the top with
a lattice of pastry strips and bake quickly till brown.
Serve hot.

32 FRUIT RECIPES

SCOTCH APPLE TART

Pare and core apples and place in a crock in a slow oven
with neither water norsugar. When tender mix in Sultana
raisins in proportion of one-fourth pound to each pound of
apples. Place in baking-dish; sprinkle with grated lemon
and sugar, cover with a sheet of pastry well pricked and
bake quickly. Serve cold with milk.

APPLE TURNOVERS

Make simple pastry and roll out rather thin, cutting
in squares. In the centre of each place apple sauce, then
fold over by opposite corners, forming a triangle; pinch
together; slash, or prick and bake quickly.

APPLE PANCAKES

Make a simple batter as for Batter Pudding (see In-
troductory Recipes), adding two heaping teaspoons of
baking powder for each quart of flour used. Add two
cups very fine-chopped apple for each quart of flour used
and cook as for ordinary griddle cakes.

APPLE PUFFS, OR FLIP FLAPS

Make as for Strawberry Batter Cups, using tart apples,
pared, cored, and sliced or chopped. Use two layers of
apple: in the centre and on top, Sprinkle with sugar and
spice before baking. Use gem pans for the distinctive
form.of “Flip Flaps.”

APPLE ROLY POLY

Make a sweet biscuit, dough; roll out thin and spread
with a layer of chopped apples or apple sauce or other apple
mixture. Sprinkle with sugar, butter, and spice and roll the
dough over as for jelly roll. Bake in moderate oven one
hour, or steam two.

THE APPLE 33

APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED, No. 1

Peel and core cooking apples, filling centres with sugar.
Roll out biscuit dough rather thin and cut in squares large
enough to cover apples. Place an apple in the centre of
each square; bring up the corners of the dough and fasten
by pinching and twisting dough together. Place in baking
pan close together and when pan is full pour over them a
syrup made with one pint of water and one pound of sugar,
letting this come half way to the top of the dumplings.
Place in rather brisk oven and bake about forty minutes.
Cinnamon may be sprinkled over the tops of each. This
is the best form of apple dumplings though there are other
good methods.

APPLE DUMPLINGS, BAKED, No. 2

The apples may be cored and quartered; placed in
earthen baking-dish with a square of dough tucked down
around each (not under them) a little sugar and water
added, and baked. Individual baking-dishes may be used,
instead. .

APPLE DUMPLINGS, BOILED

The apples may be prepared asfor baked dumplings (No.1)
then each one tied in a cloth, plunged into boiling water,
and boiled hard an hour and a half. One large dumpling
may be made, filled with sliced apples and sugar. In the
latter case it will require two hours to cook thoroughly,
and the water must boil constantly, being replenished as
needed. ;

APPLE DUMPLINGS IN CUPS

Line baking cups with thin pastry; fill up with slices of
apple and sugar; place on each a cover of the pastry and
put them in a large baking-pan, pouring boiling water
around the cups half way up, and bake in hot oven.

34 FRUIT RECIPES

APPLE DUMPLING SLICES

Make a biscuit dough and roll out thin, covering with a
layer of fine sliced apples, and roll over as for roly poly.
Then slice, set the pieces on end (as with domino rows), in
a buttered pan, and pour over them a syrup of a cup of
sugar and half a cup of water. Add a bit of butter for
each dumpling and bake half an hour, or till brown.

APPLE BATTER PUDDING

Peel, core, and slice thin six tart apples and place in
baking-dish. Cream together one-fourth cup butter and
one cup sugar; add two eggs, one cup of milk, and two cups.
of flour in which must be sifted two teaspoons baking
powder. Pour the mixture over the apples and steam
one hour. Serve with cream or sauce.

APPLE SLUMP No. 1

Pare, core, and quarter one dozen tart, juicy apples and
place in a saucepan which has a close cover. Pour over
them a pint of hot water and set on the back of the stove
for eight minutes, when add two cups of molasses. Make
a soft biscuit dough with milk and roll out half an inch
thick, making of it a cover for the apples. Place this
paste-cover on the apples and put on tight the lid of the
saucepan, bucket, or other vessel used. Cook on top of
stove for thirty minutes without lifting cover. This may
be set in oven to brown a few minutes or served as it is—
with a sweet sauce.

APPLE SLUMP No. 2

Mix with a milk biscuit dough (using a pint and a half of
flour) one or two eggs and through it two quarts of fine-
cut apples. Place half an inch thick in buttered baking-
pan. Bake in quick oven and eat with cream.

THE APPLE 35

APPLE JONATHAN

Work butter into bread dough till it is quite short then
with it line the sidesofa baking-dish. Heap the centre with
pared, cored, sliced apples and place a thick sheet of the
paste on top. Bake well, then lift off the crust and turn
it upside down on a second dish. Into the apples stir
sugar and butter, with spice if desired, and spread upon the
crust. Eat hot with cream. ,

BROWN BETTY

Chop fine two cups of tart apples. Butter a baking-
dish and place on it a layer of apple, sprinkling with cinna-
mon, sugarand butter. Placeon this a layer of the crumbs,
alternating with the apple till dish is three-fourths full,
leaving bread-crumbs on top. Add no water but cover
tight and steam three-quarters of an hour in moderate
oven when remove cover and quickly brown. Serve with
milk or sweet sauce.

APPLE SNOW BALLS

Prepare squares of cloth as for individual boiled dump-
lings and line with a layer of hot boiled rice. Place in the
centre chopped, sliced or cored apple, if the last, filling
ceritres with nuts. Tie the cloth well and bake or steam
forty minutes.

APPLE PONE

See Indian Apple Pudding.

APPLE CAKE

Make as for Huckleberry Cake for luncheon or supper
dish.
INDIAN APPLE PUDDING
Pare and core a dozen apples. Have ready a quart of
milk heated and add a quart of Indian meal, mixing and

36 FRUIT RECIPES

cooking carefully a few minutes. Add salt to taste, a cup
each of molasses and suet (chopped). Pour over the apples;
place in baking-dish and bake two hours or boil (in pudding
cloth) for three.

APPLE AMBER

Core, peel, and chop three-fourths pound of apples. Mix
together four ounces of suet, two each of sugar and flour,
and six of breadcrumbs. When chopped and mixed add
a little nutmeg and grated lemon peel and two beaten eggs.
Stir thoroughly and place in a well buttered mould with
cloth tied tight over the top. Boil three hours.

GERMAN APPLE CAKE (Simple) No. 1
or Apfel Kuchen

Add to one pint of the sponge for the usual light bread
one-half cup each of sugar and shortening, one-half tea-
spoon salt, one cup of milk and enough flour to make a soft
gough. Spread this half an inch thick in the baking-
pan and on it place in rows thin, lengthwise slices of apples.
Let this rise half an hour in a warm spot; sprinkle with one
half cup of sugar and cinnamon mixed—also a few bits of
butter—then bake.

GERMAN APPLE CAKE No. 2

This form of “‘kuchen’’ may be made with baking pow-
der. Use a pint of flour in which have been sifted a half
teaspoon of salt and one and a half of baking powder with
a tablespoon of sugar. Rub through this two tablespoons
of butter, and mix well with one beaten egg and enough
milk to make a thick batter (three-fourths cup or more).
Place in baking pan one inch thick and over the top place
apples cut into eighths, in rows, sharp edges pressed into
the dough. Sprinkle as above with cinnamon and sugar
and bake in brisk oven.

|THE APPLE 37

GERMAN APPLE CAKE No. 3

Into a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub three-
fourths pound of butter and roll out an inch thick. Have
ready pared, cored, and sliced thin, (asin foregoing recipe)
juicy apples mixed with one or two quinces and half a
pound of raisins seeded. Sweeten well with brown sugar
and add a little nutmeg with a wineglassful of rosewater
or the juice and rind of two lemons. Place this mixed
fruit on the pastry and fold over, then put in a baking
pan which has been sprinkled with a little butter, cinna-
mon, and sugar. Also on top sprinkle this and while
baking add more. Bake two hours in moderate oven.

DRIEDTAPPLE FRUIT CAKE

Soak two cups of dried apples over night. In the morn-
ing chop and simmer them, until dark, (red or brown), in
two cups of Orleans molasses. Let cool and add one cup
each of butter and milk, one half cup sugar, three cups of
flour, two level teaspoons each of cinnamon, allspice, and
cloves, three of baking powder, three eggs, and one-half
pound of raisins. (Also, if liked, a cup of currants and a
tablespoon of chopped citron.) Bake for two or two and
a half hours in slow oven.

APPLE SOLID

Simmer one and one half pounds lump sugar with three
pounds sliced apples and juice and grated rind of three
lemons, until thick, when pour into a wetted mould till cold.
Turn out and serve with cream.

APPLE SNOW

Apple Snow may be made in two ways, using either the
cooked or uncooked apples. For the uncooked grate a

38 FRUIT RECIPES

medium-sized tart apple (peeled, grated, and set aside). -
Whip stiff the white of one egg with a pinch’ of salt, then
add, gradually, three tablespoons of sugar, beating well
into the egg, alternating with the grated apple, a table-
spoon at a time, till all the apple and sugar are used, then
continue to whip until the ‘‘snow’’ has risen to at least a
pint and a halfin quantity, for it will swell surprisingly. If
the cooked apple is used, observe the same proportion,
the white of one egg to the pulp of each apple. Chopped
dates or nuts may be added or fresh, grated cocoanut.
The ‘‘snow” may be served as it is, or quickly and lightly
browned.
APPLE CHEESE (Cake or Tart Filling)

To a pound of sugar add one-fourth pint of water and one-
half pound of apples—peeled, cored, and quartered—and the
grated rind of one lemon. Cook for three hours then.add
the juice of the lemon, boil for ten minutes, stirring con-
tinually, then removing. Use this as a filling for tarts or
cake or with nuts as sandwich filling.

APPLE FILLING FOR CAKE

Make as for Apple Snow, using one egg, one apple, and
one cup of sugar. Also, for variety, the yolk of the egg
may be added, the whole heated carefully till it thickens.

APPLE FLOAT

Make first a plain custard and when cold stirin it a
pint either of apple sauce or a pint of grated apple (un-
cooked). Whip in the stiff whites the last thing.

JELLIED OR GELATINE APPLES

To two quarts of tart apples, peeled, cored, and quartered,
allow one half box of gelatine and put it to soak in one half

THE APPLE 39

cup of water. Make a syrup of a pint each of water and
sugar, adding lemon juice, peel or flavoring, and a dusting of
ginger. Let sugar dissolve then boil five minutes. Drop
in the syrup the apples, three or four at a time, and let
cook till tender but not broken. Dip out with skimmer
and place on a platter. When all are cooked and removed
put the softened gelatine in the syrup until quite dissolved
then remove and stir till it begins to set. Wet a mould
and place in it half the jelly, then the apples in a layer
and the rest of the jelly over them, setting away to chill
and harden. Serve with cream.

CIDER JELLY

To two pints of cider allow two full tablespoons of gela-
tine, softening the gelatine in a little of the cold cider,
heating the remainder to boiling point, adding a pound of
sugar and then the softened gelatine. Strain and turn into
a mould; cool and set onice. Serve with rich milk.

APPLE CHARLOTTE

Soften a half box of gelatine in a half cup of cold water
then heat it over steam for a half hour. Grate two large,
tart apples and one lemon or orange and beat lightly into
a pint of whipped cream, then add the gelatine and when
thoroughly mixed turn into a mould and set aside to cool
before plaeing onice. Serve with rich milk or wine sauce.

MERINGUED APPLES

Prepare as for baking. When cold fill centres with
marmalade, or marshmallows, then cover with meringue
made in proportion of four eggs to one pound of sugar.
Flavour with rose water or lemon extract and place in
quick oven to lightly brown..

4o FRUIT RECIPES

CODDLED APPLES

For this use the earlier apples, wipe and lay in a kettle,
to each half peck adding three-fourths pint of brown sugar
and a half pint of water. Cover and simmer till tender
and sugared through.

SPICED APPLES

To improve immature, insipid apples peel them thin and
core, and to four pounds allow two pounds of sugar, one-
quarter ounce each of nutmeg and cloves and one-half
ounce stick cinnamon. Place the sugar and spices in a pint
of vinegar and let come to a boil, when drop in the whole
apples and cook carefully till tender enough to be pierced
with a broom straw. Remove and pour the syrup over
them. These may be served as a sauce or kept a long time
in jars. (See also Sweet Apple Pickle.)

APPLE CHUTNEY

Chutney is as much used in India as we of other countries
use other sauces and has as many variations as catsup, for
instance. Apples are used as the foundation for several
kinds of chutney. One of the simpler preparations requires
five pounds of tart apples. These must be peeled, cored,
and cooked smooth with two pounds of brown sugar and
two quarts of cider vinegar. When thick as is catsup
before diluting, place in a crock and add two pounds of
chopped raisins, a small minced onion, one ounce each of
white and black mustard seed (ground) and two of ground
ginger, one tablespoon of salt, and two or three pods of red
peppers minced. Mix and let stand over night (about
ten hours), then stir again without cooking and place in
small jars, sealing well. This will keep for years.

THE APPLE 4I

APPLE CATSUP

Apple catsup is similar to apple butter, using as a foun-
dation plain instead of cider apple sauce. Cook till
thick, for each quart using a teaspoon each of ginger, cin-
namon, cloves, pepper, mustard, onion extract, two of
salt and a pint of vinegar. Simmer slowly till thick,
(which may take an hour and a quarter), then bottle and

seal while hot.
APPLE BUTTER

Use only very tart apples, washing and placing in kettle
with a quart of cider to each pailful of fruit. Simmer down
till of a very thick, smooth consistency and add just a little

spice, to taste.
SWEET APPLE PICKLE

Add a teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves and allspice
(in thin cloth bag) to a syrup made with a quart of vinegar
and three pounds of sugar. Have ready four pounds of
apples pared, cored, and halved. Place carefully in the
syrup, simmer till tender, and place in heated jars. Cook
down the syrup till thick, when pour over fruit, filling up
well, and seal. ;

APPLE JELLY No. 1

Take sour fruit, Do not core or pare, merely wash, wipe,
and cut out blemishes. Cut up, pour over sufficient water
to cover, and simmer till very soft, when drain through
flannel bag, letting drip over night. To each quart of
syrup the juice of a lemon or other tart fruit may be allowed
as further flavouring if liked. Cook down the juice, skim-
ming well before adding sugar (heated), a pound for each
pint of juice. Simmer till sugar has dissolved; then boul,
and the jelly will form in about twenty minutes. Rose
geranium, mint, or other leaves may be used as flavouring,
or orange blossoms preserved.

42 FRUIT RECIPES

APPLE JELLY No. z (With Quince)
See Quince Jelly No. 3,

APPLE AND CURRANT JELLY
See Currants.
CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 1

Make as for Apple Jelly, using a little more water. Do
not pare or core the crab apples.

CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 2

Wash and wipe the apples; cut in half and place in crock
on the back of the stove or the oven, setting in another
vessel of hot water if there is danger of too great heat.
When the apples are soft place in jelly bag to drain over
night. Measure this juice and allow one pint of sugar to one
of juice. Boil and skim the juice ten minutes before adding
the heated sugar. Stir till dissolved, then boil eight or ten
minutes. This makes a very tart jelly, stronger than
many people like. Mint may be used to flavour this to serve
with mutton or lamb.

CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 3

Use half and half of crab apples and Maiden’s Blush
apples, and make as for apple jelly. Or substitute for the
Maiden’s Blush black- or huckle- or raspberries, cherries,
or pineapple juice.

CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 4

See Plum Jelly No. 2. Or for the wild plum substitute

wild grape.
CRAB APPLE JELLY No. 5
Use equal parts of crab apples and Maiden’s Blush, and

allow for each quart or pound of the cut fruit the juice
and thin-peeled rind of one lemon. Proceed as above.

THE APPLE 43

Cassia buds and cinnamon is an old-fashioned variation of
flavouring, or ginger root, which by some is considered
excellent with crab apple. Use one or two sticks and one or
two buds or one ounce ginger to each quart of juice; sim-
mer twenty minutes, skimming, before adding sugar.

APPLE PRESERVES

Pare and core eight pounds tart apples. Make a syrup
of eight pounds of sugar to one quart of. soft water and
dissolve one teaspoon citric acid crystals in this. Heat
carefully and when clear and thick place in the syrup the
apples, turning often that the syrup may cover them,
letting remain till fruit is translucent. Place them on a
hotter part of the fire till at boiling point, when remove the
fruit (whole) and place carefully in heated jars. Fill up
with the syrup, place a round of cotton soaked in brandy
on top of each, seal covers, and put in cool place.

For simple canning much less sugar may be used and
pineapples may be added in one third or equal proportion,
or barberries.

APPLES PRESERVED WITH QUINCES
See Quinces preserved with Apples.

APPLES PRESERVED IN GRAPE JUICE
For apples or crab apples see Grape Juice for preserving.

APPLES AND CRAB APPLES PRESERVED IN CIDER

To each quart of boiled cider add three-fourths pint of
sugar (or less as taste indicates). Use this as the preserv-
ing syrup, proceeding as with preserved apples.

CRAB APPLE PRESERVE

Parboil the crab apples, preparing them by coring the
unpeeled larger ones and leaving the smaller ones as they

44 FRUIT RECIPES

are, stems, cores, and skin. Place the parboiled’ fruit
in syrup prepared for apple preserves. Cook carefully
a few minutes that the fruit may not fall to pieces. Pro-
ceed as with apple preserves. A little lemon or ginger
flavouring will be an improvement or one-third part of
orange, pineapple, barberry, or almost any berry or citrus

preserve.
CRAB APPLE MARMALADE

Cook crab apples and sweet or wild plums separately
till soft, when rub through colander and measure. To
each three quarts of crab apple allow one quart of the
plum. Mix and weigh and allow one pound sugar to each
of fruit. Cook slowly and very carefully, that this may
not burn, till smooth and thick. Place in marmalade pots
and when cold seal as for jelly.

Crab apple and apple, or crabs and quinces may be used
together for marmalade or any of the berries, citrus, or
other distinctively flavoured fruits. They may be put up
at different seasons and combined later.

APPLE AND QUINCE MARMALADE

See Quince Marmalade No. 2.

APPLE AND BLACK CURRANT MARMALADE

Use equal parts of currants and apples, cooking separ-
ately, when soft putting through colander and mixing
pulp. Cook the pulp and juice (strained off) till thick,
when add equal weight of sugar and cook till of desired
consistency.

LEMON AND APPLE MARMALADE

See Lemon Marmalade. Cook the lemon and apple
separately and allow equal parts of lemon and apple.

THE APPLE 45

APPLE JAM

Pare, core, and weigh tart apples, allowing for four
pounds of apples four pounds of brown sugar. Chop apples,
meantime making a syrup of the sugar with as little water
as can be used; add apples, the grated peel of four lemons,
and a little ginger root. Simmer till the fruit pulp is
translucent and golden in colour, when place in small jars.

- Loaf sugar may be used, the lemon and ginger omitted,
and the pulp cooked longer.

TO MAKE CIDER

It is generally reckoned that the richest cider is made
from the sweetest apples. As it comes from the press
pour it into a tub prepared by boring a hole in the bottom
(the plug put in very loosely), and filled with alternate
layers of charcoal and gravel. As fast as it filters through
put it in a clean “‘white oak’’-cask in a cool cellar andlet
remain open till fermentation has ceased, then bung tight.

TO KEEP CIDER SWEET

No. 1. A handful of hops boiled with a little treacle or
‘honey and added to the acetified cider will assist in
keeping it sweet.

No. 2. For each barrel allow eight kitchen table spoon-
fuls of white mustard seed. Pour in with the cider.

No. 3. If made after freezing time cider may be kept
sweet (if it is free from water) by being kept in a tem-
perature just above freezing point. It may be boiled
down one-fourth after making, which will be an additional
safeguard against any change in it.

BOILED CIDER

Boil down till thick as molasses, then bottle. To serve
it dilute with charged (carbonated) water ice cold, or hot
water, spiced.

46 FRUIT RECIPES

CIDER VINEGAR

Pour half as much water on the pulp remaining after
squeezing out the cider as there was of the juice. Let it
ferment then press out the pulp and barrel the liquid.

Or, as apples are used in the kitchen, boil the skins and
cores in as little water as possible, sweeten with a little
molasses, and let ferment.

Apples which are not keeping well may be boiled and
the liquor strained off, a little molasses added, and let fer-
ment. With crab-apples reduce the pressed juice one-
third, then treat as above.

TO DRY APPLES, ALSO TO PACK

Extremely acid fruit is best for retaining flavour when
dried. Cut in slices, string or merely place on shallow
trays, drying in fruit-dryer, in cool oven or sun. If dried
in the sun, heat over steam before putting away to destroy
any possible insect eggs, and while. drying cover with
mosquito nettingto protectfrom insects. In packing apples
away for winter keeping or shipping, if elder blossoms
are placed between layers a delicate flavour is given.

CIDER EGG NOG

To one egg whipped, then slightly sweetened with sugar,
allow one glass of cider. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg and
serve with shaved ice. Or serve hot.

APPLE WATER—“A CoolingDrink in Fevers”

Pare and core three large juicy pippins and slice them
into a pitcher or crock with the grated rind of a lemon.
On this pour one pint of boiling water, then cover close and
let stand four hours. Strain and sweeten with loaf sugar.

THE APPLE 47
APPLE TEA

Roast very tart apples and pour over them boiling water,
letting stand till the water is cold. This may be sweetened
a little if sugar is permitted.

APPLE BRANDY, OR POMONA WINE

To six gallons of new cider add one gallon of brandy
and let stand from eight months to a year before racking
off. To make Apple Jack or Cider Brandy distill the cider
alone.

CRAB-APPLE CHAMPAGNE

Crush fruit as for apple cider and proceed as for cider
making, but let the verjuice (or crab-apple juice) stand
without the mustard seed or other means for keeping it
from getting ‘‘hard.’’ At the end of two or three years
the verjuice has become very similar to champagne.

APPLE WATER ICES

These may be made by more than one method. Simmer
till tender a quart of apples, pared and cored; when cold
put through a sieve. Have ready a syrup made according
to Introductory Recipes, using one and a half pints; mix-
ing with the strained apple and juice of two lemons.
Freeze. Or the apple may be added to plain cider instead
of to a syrup or the cider itself frozen, flavouring as liked.

Preserved or stewed apples may be frozen by packing
in salt and ice five or six hours, or apple sauce, thick and
flavoured with lemon or sherry, may be frozen. The sauce
may be thinned as first directed and a softened tablespoon
of gelatine added just as the apples are removed from the
fire, stirring it till dissolved. This gives the mousse
effect.

48 FRUIT RECIPES

BAKED APPLE ICE CREAM

Pare, core, and quarter ten tart apples, baking with
sugar and lemon or spice (see Baked Apples). When cold
add one quart rich milk and cream, scalded and cooled,
and freeze.

FROZEN APPLE CUSTARD
Make the custard as for Apple Custard Pie, using either
one pint of apple sauce or one pint of grated apple, and
whipping in the stiff whites of the eggs after the custard
is partially frozen.

FROZEN APPLE SNOW

Make as for Apple Snow, adding for each pint of snow
one pint of mixed milk and cream and a trifle more sugar.

CHAPTER II
THE PEAR (Pyrus communis: Malacee)

HE Pyrus communis, or common pear, ranks close to
the apple in point of family, of abundance, lati-
tudinal range and general utility. The wild pear grows
throughout Europe and Asia, its branches thorny; its small,
hard fruit not considered edible. But from very early
times the bristling little wild tree or bushy shrub has
taken kindly to cultivation. The Greeks and Romans
seem to have availed themselves of this susceptibility and
the legions of the latter introduced the pear into Britain.
Whether grafted on quince, the mountain ash (the rowan),
or wild pear stock, it flourished and now the vast majority
of pears do not deserve the epithet “insipid’’ even yet
not infrequently applied by the thoughtless who judge all
by the few exceptions or by those pears intended by na-
ture for cooking only. :
There are stores of riches in the grape sugar contained
in this fruit, in its proportion of iron, in its moderate per
cent. of malic, tannic, and tartaric acids, its albumen, lime,
pectin, mucilage, and its relatively large proportion of
potash and phosphoric acid and toothsome juiciness, the
quantity and pure quality of which last ‘distilled water,”
should tempt one to make up for the water one should but
which one does not drink copiously enough in simple form.
Such general mildness of tonic properties agrees with al-
most any type of stomach and the laxative quality has a
properly stimulating effect upon the intestines.
The pear may be used in almost as many forms and in

49

50 FRUIT RECIPES

very much the same manner as the apple (see ‘‘The
Apple” for all desired recipes not found under ‘‘The Pear,”
or adapt to other fruit recipes).

RECIPES

_ PERRY

Perry bears the same relation to pears that cider does to
apples, being the expressed juice of the fruit. Perry may
be made from the ordinary pear, the better ones of the
windfalls or unsalable ‘‘nubbins,’”’ but there are certain
varieties known in general as ‘“‘perry’’ pears, grown
especially for this purpose. These varieties lack in fra-
grance and edible qualities, being vigorously harsh, but
they are much prized in Germany, France, and England,
where numerous perry orchards are set out. The fer-
mented perry is considered superior to cider in richness
and sweetness. It contains 7 per cent. of alcohol
(Ené. Brit.) and will keep in casks for three years—when
bottled, longer, but it does not bear shipment as well
as might be desired.

TO DRY AND PACK PEARS

Where winter pears (or those which may be laid by to
mellow as late as spring) are not to be had in quantity,
pears may be dried in the sun or a slow oven with the same
success as are apples. This is a common practice in parts
of Europe where pear tarts, stewed pears, and other dishes
are concocted from the dried fruit and thoroughly relished.
In packing pears place between layers of elder blossoms
to add flavour.

PEARS UNCOOKED
A Breakfast or Supper Dish
To vary the serving of pears au naturel, pare, core, and
slice mellow, well-flavoured fruit, using a silver knife.

THE PEAR st

Sprinkle the slices with sugar; chill well, then serve with
cream and brown bread and butter: a substantial and
dainty meal.

PYRAMID OF PEARS

Pears sliced, sugared, with a little lemon or orange juice,
or sherry, added, or pears which are so prepared and then
crushed may be heaped in layers, alternating with whipped
cream, and sprinkled with candied cherries or angelica.

STEWED PEARS

Take small, acid pears and wipe, leaving stems and skins
as they are or halving if of larger size. To two quarts of
pears allow one pint of maple sugar and one-fourth pint
of water. Place all in a kettle at once and cook till tender.
White sugar and lemon peel (in strips or grated) may be
substituted.

BAKED PEARS—STUFFED OR MERINGUED

Pare and core large pears; stuff with seeded dates,
raisins, or chopped nuts, with some tart marmalade of other
fruit, or shredded cocoanut; place close together in a
dish or pan and bake slowly till tender, without sugar and
only enough moisture to prevent burning. When done
place in a heated glass dish and serve, cold, or pour over
them a simple custard or melted marshmallows.

For the Meringued Pears bake the fruit with a little
lemon peel or candied ginger in the centres and when ten-
der place over them a meringue made with the whites of
three eggs and half cup of sugar. Brown quickly and serve:
with rich milk.

PEAR BREAD PUDDING

Slice and stew the pears in a syrup made with a pint
each of sugar and water, adding the juice of a lemon, then

52 FRUIT RECIPES

place half of this in a pudding dish. Have ready a pint
of bread crumbs mixed with a tablespoon of butter, half
a cup of sugar,a cup of warm water, and, lastly, the whipped
whites of two eggs. Place this on the pears in the dish,
pouring over the top the rest of the fruit. Grate a little
nutmeg over this; sprinkle a tablespoonful of crumbs
on top with a little sugar and bake, covered, an hour and
a quarter. Remove cover and brown the last few minutes.
Serve with a sweet or tart sauce as preferred.

COMPOTE OF PEARS

Stew pears in a syrup as above, paring and coring, but
leaving them whole unless very large, when they may be
halved. Put them in the dish from which they are to be
served and over them spread a lemon gelatine or some
delicate jelly of pure fruit in place of the gelatine. The
syrup should meantime be cooked down till thick, then
poured over the fruit and jelly. Chill and serve.

PEAR TRIFLE

Cook pears as for Pear Bread Pudding and fill baking
dish with layers of sponge cake sprinkled with cocoanut,
then the pears, etc., pouring over the whole the yolks of
three eggs whipped with a half cup of sugar. Bake till
brown, then add a meringue of the whites of the eggs; re-
place in oven till well coloured and serve when cold.

PEAR ICES

These may be made with fresh fruit if it is very mellow
and juicy, when it may easily be put through a colander
or coarse sieve, or the fruit, stewed in syrup and put through
a sieve can be used, letting cool and adding the juice of
a lemon or a little wine. Sweet apple cider, grape juice, or
perry may be used instead of the syrup with uncooked,

THE PEAR 53

mashed pears. The addition of the whipped whites of eggs,
when the fruit is partly frozen, will make the ordinary
sherbert. Large pears may be hollowed out and the ice
served from these instead of from dishes or glasses. A
cream may be made with the ice cream or custard founda-
tion given in the Introductory Recipes, adding stewed,
mashed, or spiced pears.

PRESERVED PEARS

Select small pears and peel, leaving on the stems. To
one pound of pears allow a pound of sugar, and to each four
pounds of sugar allow one pint of water and one teaspoon-
ful citric acid crystals (dissolved). Melt the sugar and
acid over steam; let boil a minute after this, then set back
and keep hot till needed. Meantime boil the pears with
just enough water to cover. Acidulate the latter well with
citric acid. When tender remove and place in the syrup
for half an hour; place the fruit in hot jars and seal at once.
Keep in a cool, dark, dry place.

PEARS PRESERVED IN PERRY
See Apples Preserved in Cider.

PEARS PRESERVED IN GRAPE JUICE
See Grapes.

BRANDIED PEARS

To four pounds each of peeled fruit and sugar take a
pint of brandy. Cook the sugar with a quart of water,
simmering two minutes after coming to a boil. Place
fruit in this and let boil five minutes. Remove the pears,
placing in heated jars; let syrup boil till it thickens, then
add the brandy and remove at once from the fire. Pour
syrup over fruit and seal. Drain off any syrup which may

54 FRUIT RECIPES

ooze from the pears when they are first taken from the
fire. If the pears are allowed to lie in brandy over night
after being cooked they are more certain to keep well. (See
also other brandied fruits.)

PEARS PRESERVED WITH GINGER OR LEMON

Peel and quarter pears, weigh and allow a quarter pound
of green ginger (scraped) to each pound of fruit. Have
a syrup prepared as for preserves and in this lay the pears
and ginger, proceeding as with the preserves. Lemon
peel may be used instead of ginger.

BAKED PRESERVED PEARS

Any small, hard pears may be baked for preserving
with the best results. Place in layers in a crock with some
lemon peel; cover with water and molasses, half and half;
set on the back of the stove all night and bake all next day
in a slow oven. Longer cooking will not impair but im-
prove if done slowly enough. The fruit will become dark
red in colour. Cook down the syrup; pour over the
pears when done and the fruit has been placed in heated
jars.

PEAR MARMALADE

To each pound of rather juicy pears, peeled and cored,
allow one and a half pounds of sugar with the grated rind
and juice of a lemon or orange, or one-third part of some
tart berry-marmalade or fruit-juice. Cook down as for
other marmalades, skimming and stirring often.

THE PEAR 55

RAISINEE

For this French preserve, sometimes called Grape and
Pear ‘‘butter,’’ see Grapes.

PEAR JELLY

Pear jelly may be successfully made by using the richer
varieties of pears not fully ripe, with the usual proportion
of sugar and juice: pound for pint (see other fruit
jellies), and flavoured as for apple.

PEAR CHIPS

Wipe and stem hard pears. To four pounds allow three
pounds of sugar, and an eighth pound scraped green gin-
ger root grated. Slice thin in bits and let stand twelve
hours, then cook with juice and rind of two lemons, let-
ting come slowly to a boil and cooking perhaps three hours:
till clear and thick.

PICKLED PEARS

To each six pounds of pears allow a pint of cider- or wine-
vinegar, three pounds of sugar, and a teaspoon each of
cinnamon, cloves, and ginger (in thin bags). Let the sugar,
vinegar, and spices boil up and place in the resulting syrup
the peeled pears, a few at a time. Cook until tender;
place pears in a crock; pour over them the vinegar and let
stand three days. Pour off the syrup and boil it down,
then pour again over the pears (having placed them in
jars); remove spice-bag, and seal. If tartness is desired
the sugar, part or all, may be omitted.

PEAR SAUCE, PLAIN OR FOR SHORT CAKE

Make as for Apple Sauce, flavouring with spice, lemon, or
other fruit flavouring, and serving as a side dish or with
shortcake (see Strawberry Short Cake).

56 FRUIT RECIPES

PEAR VINEGAR

The water in which pears have been boiled for preserves
may be used for vinegar or vinegar may be made from
crushed pears as from apples at cider-making time. Or
pears may be cut, boiled, and crushed and the resulting
liquor sweetened with molasses and allowed to ferment.

CHAPTER III
THE QUINCE (Cydonia cydonia: Malacee)

HE Quince, or Cydonia, is a near relative of the apple
and pear, sometimes in form resembling one, some-
times the other, according to variety. Its history is as
fragrant as the fruit itself, which among the ancient Greeks
was typical of happiness and love, and bears about it a
still more ancient suggestion, through the old Hebrew
writers: that it was the forbidden fruit. And surely no
fruit was ever more tempting in perfume; more dis-
appointing in reality before cookery creates chemical
change. (The Japanese Quince [Cydonia Japonica]
is not a general cooking fruit.) The quince is native to
Greece and is now known almost as widely as the apple
and pear. Its name was bestowed upon it, it is said, in
the days when flourished the ancient city of Cydonia
in Crete.

As an adjunct to or basis of preserves, and as a cordial or
unfermented drink, made as is cider, the quince is a food
success and the mucilage which surrounds its seeds is con-
sidered of value in several ways, one of its uses being as a
cure for sore throat, or applied, externally, to other ir-
ritated surfaces.

RECIPES

QUINCE CIDER

Make as for Apple Cider.
57

58 FRUIT RECIPES

QUINCE JELLY No.1

When quince preserves are made the parings and cores
may be used for jelly, covering them with cold water and
cooking slowly three hours or longer. Strain through a
jelly bag over night; boil and skim juice in the morning
for fifteen minutes then strain again, measuring and plac-
ing in clean cooking vessel with three-fourths its weight
of heated sugar. Cook twenty minutes or till it jells.
Vary the flavouring used with quince as with apple.

QUINCE JELLY No. 2

Quince jelly may be made with the whole fruit, when
the juice is strained allowing the usual proportion of a
pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Lemon may be used
with this as variety.

QUINCE JELLY No. 3

Use equal quantity of quinces and Maiden’s Blush
apples, adding sugar in proportion of three-fourths pound
of sugar to a pint of juice.

QUINCE MARMALADE Nos. 1 and 2

Slice unpeeled quinces, barely covering with water,
and cooking till tendér. Press through sieve and replace
on stove, allowing one pound and a quarter to each pound
of quince pulp. Cook slowly and carefully, stirring fre-
quently, till stifi. Pieplant may be cooked with this
marmalade for a pleasant tart tone.

QUINCE MARMALADE No. 3
Apple and Quince
Use equal parts of Maiden’s Blush apple and quince,
proceeding as above, allowing but one pound of sugar to
each pound of pulp.

THE QUINCE 59

QUINCE MARMALADE Nos. 4, 5, 6, and 7

Use equal parts of quince and crabapple, proceeding
as in Marmalade No. 2, or substitute for the crab freshened
figs, or dates, or pineapple marmalade.

QUINCE MARMALADE No. 8
Lemon or Ginger
Make as for Marmalade No. 1, using lemon peel and
juice, one lemon to each pint of pulp. Ginger may be
added or substituted for the lemon.

PRESERVED QUINCES

Quinces may be preserved whole, halved, quartered, or
sliced across in rings. Cook the fruit till tender in water
acidulated with citric acid, then place in a syrup made
with one part of water to three of sugar. When at boiling
point let remain one minute if cut; if whole, for five or
six minutes, then fill jars and seal at once. This may be
varied with apples, as below, or by other fruits as with
Quince Marmalade.

QUINCES PRESERVED WITH APPLES

Make the preserves as above and allow one-third weight
of sweet apples. When the quince has been cooked tender
and removed put the apple in the syrup and simmer till
translucent and red, which may take an hour. Place
apple and quince in alternate layers in the jars and when
the syrup has penetrated the apple it will not be distin-
guishable from the quince. No more sugar is necessary
by the addition of the apples.

CANNED QUINCES

Weigh the fruit after paring, coring, and quartering,
allowing six ounces of sugar and nearly a pint of water

60 FRUIT RECIPES

to each pound of fruit. Steam fruit till tender when
‘place in heated jars. Meantime have the syrup boiling
five minutes and pour over the fruit. Let stand in the hot
water bath in oven or on top the stove for thirty minutes,
then fill up with syrup and seal.

CANDIED QUINCE SLICES

Core and slice thin the quinces and weigh, setting aside
the same weight of sugar. Scald the slices then boil hard
for eight minutes; strain and remove to a kettle containing
the sugar and two tablespoons of water and set in the oven
to melt slowly, letting gently cook till translucent and a
deep red. Carefully remove the pieces and drain, when
dry placing on plates with a layer of sugar above and below.
Let stand in dry place ten hours or more; sift over them
more sugar and pack away.

DRIED QUINCES

Pare and slice the fruit; string and dry or spread to dry
as for apples and pears. When needed for use wash and
soak them over night, putting on to stew in the last water.

QUINCE CORDIAL

To secure the juice from the quinces slice and chop in
a vegetable cutter or grate. Allow a pound of sugar for
each quart of juice, a handful of bruised plum or peach
pits, two or three cloves, grated peel of half a lemon, and
one-half pint of brandy. Let stand in a jug loosely
stopped for nearly three weeks when filter, bottle, and seal.

PRESERVED QUINCE JUICE AND
PRESERVED QUINCE SYRUP

See Cherry Juice and Syrup Preserved.

THE QUINCE 61

QUINCE HONEY No. 1 (Cake or Tart Filling)

This will make filling for layer cake, or, thinned, a deli-
cate syrup for sauces, etc. Grate two large quinces and
cook till tender. Add a pound of sugar to a pint of water,
cooking till the “‘soft ball’’ stage is reached when add the
quince and simmer twenty minutes longer, stirring most of
the time. For tarts use this with a custard.

QUINCE HONEY No. 2 (Syrup for Pancakes or Puddings)

Prepare quinces as above, using two pints of sugar to
one pint of water and simmer till the syrup is clear—four
or five minutes—when add the grated quince and boil
six or seven minutes more before removing from the fire.

BAKED OR STEAMED _QUINCES
Quinces make an attractive dessert baked or steamed,
using the same method as for apples and pears. Grate
them for variation.
QUINCE SAUCE
Stew quinces and flavour with lemon and serve, pulped

or quartered, as for apple sauce. Half apple may be used
instead of all quince.

QUINCE TARTS

Tarts may be filled with quince marmalade, honey,
custard, sauce, or preserves, or the baked or steamed fruit.
Vary them ‘as are apple, gooseberry, and other tarts, using
meringue and candied fruits or whipped cream or lattice
pastry strips for the large tarts; nuts may be sprinkled
over the small ones or tartlets.

QUINCE ICES

Make as for pear and apple ices, custard, cream, etc.,
using the quince cordial sometimes to vary the flavour,

62 FRUIT RECIPES

IN SALADS

The quince cordial or juice, freshly expressed, may be
used to flavour the dressing, or the candied quince slices
chopped and mixed with other fruits or vegetables.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

Quince tapioca and other lighter forms of desserts, or
fritters, dumplings, etc., may be made with the quince
with excellent results. See Introductory and other
fruit recipes.

CHAPTER IV '

THE MEDLAR AND THE LOQUAT
(Mespilus)

HE medlar, Mespilus Germanica, like the apple, pear,
and quince, belongs to the Malacee, but differs from
them all in being not edible until well past the mature stage.
In appearance and general characteristics it more nearly
resembles the plum than any other fruit, and the loquat,
its cousin, the Mespilus Japonica (Photinia or Eryiobotrya
Japonica), is commonly, though erroneously, called the
“Japan Plum.’’ The latter tree is evergreen and very hand-
some at all seasons. The fruit pulp is delicate and tender
in consistency but until fully ripe is tart in tone. The
pits, which are rather large in proportion to the fruit, are
of a beautiful golden brown hue and as highly polished as
if coated with shellac. The seeds resemble the peach pit
in flavour but are more delicate. The yellow clusters of
loquats, like enlarged, elongated drops of pale gold (though
sometimes rounded and gooseberry like) need to be well
rubbed with a soft cloth to remove the downy ‘‘fuzz”’
when the fruit is to be served uncooked.

The peeled, seeded fruit, quartered, is an excellent ad-
dition to iced drinks. The juice of the uncooked fruit
makes delicious loquatade, and a syrup may be made from
it for bottling (see Fruit Syrups in Introductory Recipes).
Almost any recipe for Northern or Southern fruits may be
adapted for the preparation of the loquat, including the’
ices.

63

64 FRUIT RECIPES

RECIPES

LOQUATS STEWED

Loquats may be stewed when but half ripe, or when
fully mature, or half and half. Rub off the fuzz; remove
stems and seeds, or merely wipe off the fuzz and stew
whole, and put over a moderate fire with just a little water.
When partially tender sugar to taste and finish cooking.

LOQUAT JELLY

Preferably gather the loquats when full sized but still
hard and only partially turned in colour. Wash and re-
move blossom ends. Place on fire in cold water, barely
covering with water, cooking slowly as with other fruits for
jellies, till the pulp is very soft and the juice entirely free.
Drain; cook down till juice is thick and cherry-coloured,
when add heated sugar, pint for pint, gradually. When
sugar is thoroughly dissolved cook fifteen minutes, or till
it jells. The loquat makes a very beautiful, light-coloured,
tart jelly, firm but exceedingly tender and delicate, re-
sembling tart apple more than any other jelly.

LOQUAT MARMALADE

The fruit pulp left from the jelly may be put through a
sieve and cooked down with equal quantity of sugar till of
the right consistency.

LOQUAT JAM

Loquat jam, when made with the unripe fruit, as
for jelly, closely resembles the cherry in colour and is not
unlike it in flavour though with an individuality of its
own—perhaps richer, as well as being in fragrance and
flavour rather aromatic. Both the marmalade and jam

THE MEDLAR AND THE LOQUAT 65

ate prettier if made from the whole, fresh fruit instead of
from the jelly pulp. For the jam wash and seed the fruit,
removing the blossom end and any discolouration or im-
perfection. Place over the fire, barely covering with cold
water and cook slowly several hours till very tender and
deep red in colour. No water will be needed in addition
to that first placed on the fruit as its juiciness requires
reducing rather than otherwise. When cooked down
add sugar in equal measure and continue to cook down till
of proper consistency—two hours or more, when as much
as four or five quarts are used. The ripe loquats make
a yellower jam, lacking the rich colour though of excellent
flavour.

CHAPTER V

THE PEACH (Amygdalus Persica, or Prunus Persica)
AND APRICOT (A. or P. Armeniaca)

NOTHER great division of fruits is the Almond
or Plum family, Amygdalacee, including the
almond, peach, apricot, cherry, and plum. The peach
is held by some to bea distinct genus, by others is variously
classed with the almond and apricot and with the plum,
adding interest to the mooted question of exact origin by
the fact that Darwin held the peach to be an evolutionised
form of the wild almond. Alphonse de Candolle has led
the theorists claiming the distinct peach origin, with
China as its probable earliest home: since in that country
the peach has not-been found in varying forms (ap-
proaching or departing from the almond) but instead, has
never been unknown as a distinctive, individual fruit or
tree. (The Chinese Peen-To peach, in form flattened
like a tomato, is now grown to a considerable extent in
parts of the semi-tropical states of North America.) The
name Persica was given the peach from the supposition
that it originated in Persia. It has claims upon beauty
of complexion, unrivalled perhaps in the fruit kingdom,
and in rich, luscious fragrance few fruits can equal it,
being esteemed in almost every country of the world for
its flavour and daintiness of texture.
Peaches must be fully ripened and sound to be entirely
wholesome uncooked but in this perfect stage have been
66

sUosvas [[@ }e oUIOSpULY pue WesIFI9AT

FAL LVASOT GAUL LVASOT AHL AO SWOSSO'IA

SPANISH CHERRIES

THE PEACH AND APRICOT 67

given to even typhoid patients with success when fruits
as a rule are forbidden. Also, peaches have been found
beneficial in serious cases of intestinal disorders among
children and adults alike. The peculiar acids of this fruit
are apparently fatal to germs of the dysentery type and
Holbrook quotes a physician who wrote him that in the
treatment of dysentery he much preferred ‘“‘ripe, sound
fruit, peaches especially, to any medicine that can be sug-
gested.”’ Fresh or stewed the fruit is laxative and re-
frigerant. ,

The seeds and flowers of peaches are used in the manu-
facture of a liqueur called Persico and the bruised pits give
to almost any alcoholic liquor the flavour of Noyeau. The
flowers were formerly steeped to be used as a tea for
their laxative quality and it is also thought they exert
“to a moderate extent, a sedative influence over the
nervous system’? (U. §S. Dispensatory). Sometimes,
according to the same authority, they have been given
in infusion for “‘irritability of the bladder, sick stomach,
and whooping-cough.” As for the blossoms, it should be
remembered that they have been known to cause fatal
cases of poisoning among children although in the hands
of physicians they are safely used (as a vermifuge), and ‘‘a
syrup prepared from them is considerably used in infantile
cases, on the continent of Europe.’’ The leaves, when
rubbed or steeped in hot water, give out a strong almond
flavour greatly esteemed in many countries. From both
the leaves and kernels, when distilled, is extracted oil, that
from the kernels being frequently used as an adulterant
of almond oil.

The apricot is supposed to have originated in Armenia.

The nectarine, once puzzling to botanists, is but a
variation of the peach. (All recipes for peaches may be
applied to nectarines and apricots.)

68 FRUIT RECIPES

RECIPES

PEACHES HALVED (Uncooked)

Select large freestones; drop into boiling water for two
minutes, then into iced water, and the fruit will easily slip
out of the skin. Halve the peaches; remove pits and
place the fruit on ice. When ready to serve fill the cen-
tres with powdered sugar, or sugar and melted marsh-
mallows; join each two halves with short, fine, tooth-
picks, and place in the serving dishes or glasses. Pass
with them whipped cream.

PEACH SALADS

Peaches may be served half and half with bananas, or
with almonds (one-fifth almonds), with celery and wal-
nuts, or fine-chopped.apple or pear, with French dressing,
simple, or flavoured with a cordial.

PEACH SOUP No. 1 (Hot)

Remove skins and pits from twelve ripe peaches and stew
the fruit with two or three of the cracked kernels, a cup
of sugar, and two teaspoons of sago, till tender and the
sago clear. Rub through a sieve then return to the sauce-
pan; add half as much claret.as there is juice just before
serving.

PEACH AND PRUNE SOUP

See Prune Soup No.2.

PEACH SOUP No. 2 (Cold)

Pare, stone, and chop peaches. Sprinkle over them
sugar in quantity desired and let stand an hour. To a
pint of juice add one-third pint of claret; place in a jug
and cover with ice one hour. Serve with shaved ice in
glasses,

THE PEACH AND APRICOT 69

BAKED PEACHES

Pare and place the whole fruit in baking-dish, using
sugar generously if the fruit is tart. Add a few bits of
butter and half a pint of hot water; sprinkle with chopped
nuts and bake till tender. Serve cold.

STEWED PEACHES

See stewed apples and pears.

PEACH SHORT CAKE

Make and serveas for strawberry shortcake, slicing peaches
rather fine, or pulping, and letting stand with sugar over
them for an hour before using.

PEACH SUET PUDDING OR_PONE

Wash, then dry a pint of dried peaches and dredge with
flour. Heata quart of milk and mix with a pint of Orleans
molasses, then let cool. Add to this one-fourth pound
chopped suet and four eggs beaten light, a teaspoon each
of ginger and cinnamon, and a pinch of nutmeg. Add
yellow Indian meal to make a thick batter and into this
stir the peaches. Place in pudding cloth dipped in hot
water then dredged with flour, leaving room to swell. Boil
hard for five hours. (See Apple Pone.) Serve with hard
sauce. This, like plum pudding, may be made the day
before using.

DUTCH PEACH CAKE

Make as for German Apple Cake—No. 1, No. 2, No. 3.

DUTCH FRUIT MOONS (With Peaches)

Make a dough as for sweet shortcake, adding two eggs,
or make with sponge. Roll out the dough half an inch
thick and cut with large biscuit cutter. Drop on each a

yo FRUIT RECIPES

spoonful of peach jam or chopped, fresh peaches, and fold
over, forming half circles or ‘‘half moons.”’ Pinch edges
together and bake well. Any fruit may be substituted
for peaches.
PEACH FRITTERS

Pare and halve peaches, sprinkle with sugar, and roll
in powdered macaroons (or fine, stale cake crumbs) before
placing in the frying kettle. When brown drain, roll in
sugar, sprinkle with a few drops of maraschino, and serve
oi PEACH TART No. 1

Line a pie pan or baking-dish (bottom and sides or sides
only) with a sweet, short biscuit dough and bake well.
When brown fill with uncooked, sliced peaches; place
lattice strips of the paste across the top and bake in a
quick oven till the strips are brown.

PEACH TART No. 2

Line dish as above, baking brown; fill with peach sauce
or the uncooked pulp; finish with the lattice work and brown
quickly.

PEACH TART No. 3

Make as above, either method, substituting meringue

or whipped cream for the lattice strips.

PEACH TARTLETS

Line (and bake) little tart shells; fill with peach mar-
malade.
PEACH COBBLER
Peel ripe peaches, halve them, and fill a deep earthen
baking-dish with them, leaving in a few of the pits to give
flavour. Half fill the dish with ice water, sprinklesugar over
the peaches, then place over them a sheet of light but thick

THE PEACH AND APRICOT aX

pastry. Pinch this down around the edge, slash the cen-
tre crosswise, and prick well. Bake till brown, then serve
hot or cold with cream.

PEACH PIE

With the old-fashioned pie the crust should be first
partly baked, as for tarts, then the sliced fruit placed in
it, a sprinkling of sugar, flour, and butter added, and the
top cover put on, slashed, and the whole well baked.
Tarts or cobbler are preferable.

PEACH PAN DOWDY, OR PEACH SPIDER PIE

Pare and slice the peaches and fill baking-dish (no under
crust), sprinkling with sugar, butter,and cinnamon. Cover
as for cobbler and bake slowly. When browned remove
the crust whole. Place half the peaches on a platter;
over them the crust upside down, then the rest of the
fruit. Serve with cream.

PEACH PUDDING

Over a dish of pared, whole peaches sprinkle a cup and
a half of sugar and let stand an hour. Drain off the juice
and add to it a pint of sweet milk, four well beaten eggs,
three-fourths cup of sugar,a tablespoon of butter, melted
and rubbed smooth with half a cup of flour, and a little of
the milk; add a pinch of salt. Pour over the peaches
and bake till brown. This may also be made by first
baking the peaches with a pint of water, draining off the
juice and using as above.

PEACH CUSTARD PUDDING

Use large peaches, pare, and remove a slice across the
tops; take pits out without breaking fruit; fill hollows with

72 FRUIT RECIPES

any chopped fruit, as apples or citron, angelica or raisins,
adding also nuts if liked. Sprinkle with sugar and a
little cinnamon or nutmeg. Make a custard with three
beaten eggs and a cup each of flour and sugar. Pour this
over the peaches and bake; or, cook the custard; cool; pour
over the peaches and serve chilled.

PEACH PUDDING STEAMED

Mix well a cup of flour and two of breadcrumbs with
half a cup of chopped nuts (almonds preferably). Stir
in the yolks of three eggs, three-fourths cup of sugar, a
little lemon juice, two heaping cups chopped peaches, and,
last, the stiff whipped whites of the eggs. Place in but-
tered mould and steam two hours. Serve with peaches
pressed through a sieve and sweetened.

PEACH BREAD PUDDING
Make as for Apple Bread Pudding.

PEACH BETTY
Make as for Brown Betty (under Apples).

SHERRIED PEACH PUDDING

Line a dish with stale sponge cake dipped in sherry, and
heap on this pared, halved peaches. Spread a meringue
over the top and brown quickly by placing the pudding-
dish in another which is partly filled with ice water. In
this way the top will brown without heating the peaches.

Serve with cream.
PEACH KISSES

Pare, halve, and remove pits of ten large peaches. Make
a syrup of one pint sugar to half a pint of water and cook
till it strings from the spoon. Dip the peaches (on a wire

THE PEACH AND APRICOT 73

spoon) into this then set them away to chill. Whip stiff
the whites of. four or five eggs with five tablespoons of
powdered sugar. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water
and into this drop the meringue by spoonfuls, cooking for
two minutes, removing with flat skimmer carefully to a
plate from which these kisses can be placed in the centres
of the peach halves. Sprinkle chopped almonds over them
and set on ice.

PEACH MOUSSE AND RUSSE

To each cup of peach pulp (fresh or canned) allow
a heaping teaspoon of gelatine (two cups of pulp make a
generous quantity). Dissolve gelatine in one-third cup of
cold water, then place over steam to dissolve, and strain
into the peach pulp. Sweeten well, add a tablespoon of
lemon juice and a little raspberry or strawberry syrup.
Coat the lining of a fancy mould with a tablespoon of
melted gelatine, then pour in the mousse, pack well, cover
with ice, and freeze six hours.

Make the Russe in similar manner but fold in at the
last a pint of whipped cream and the grated rind of a lemon
instead of the lemon juice. Use also a little almond
flavouring. (These may be used as filling for a mould lined
with vanilla ice cream.)

PEACH SOUFFLE

&

Peel and rub seven or eight fully ripe peaches through
a sieve; stir into them a cup of powdered sugar and the
beaten yolks of three eggs. Whisk together for eight
minutes. Set aside until the whites of six eggs are beaten
stiff, then fold carefully into the peach and egg mixture;
turn the whole into a soufflé dish, sprinkle with sugar, and
bake in brisk oven six minutes.

74 FRUIT RECIPES

PEACH SNOW, OR PEACH FOAM

Make as for Apple Snow. Either fresh or canned fruit
may be used. Flavour the sugar and egg with almond or
rose flavouring and have all of the ingredients ice cold be-
fore mixing. Crush or pulp the fruit instead of grating.

CREAM OF PEACH SHERBET
Scald a quart of rich milk, dissolving in it a cup of sugar.
Let simmer eight minutes, then cool, adding to it when
cold a pint of peach pulp sweetened and flavoured. When
half frozen add the whites of two eggs whipped, and com-

plete the freezing.
PEACH ICE

Pare and slice peaches and let stand two hours covered
with sugar, allowing a pint of sugar for each quart of
peaches. Blanch and crack a handful of the pits and add
to the peaches. After letting stand strain and to each half
gallon of syrup allow a pint of water. Freeze.

PEACH ICE CREAM :

Pare, stone, and thoroughly mash ripened peaches, and
sweeten well. To each quart allow a quart of cream and
new milk in equal proportion, scalded. Cool and freeze,
adding, when half frozen, a cup of milk in which a few of the
bruised kernels have been simmered.

FROZEN PEACHES

For one can or one dozen large ripe peaches use two
coffee cups of sugar and a pint of water. Break the peaches
slightly, mix with the water and sugar, and let stand half
an hour, stirring once in a while to dissolve the sugar. Then
add the stiff-whipped whites of three eggs, place in mould
and pack in salt and ice for six hours.

THE PEACH AND APRICOT 75

PEACHES DRIED No. 1

Peel very ripe peaches, slice and string them in the sun,
or dry on thin clean boards in oven or fruit dryer. Heat
as for dried apples before packing away.

PEACHES DRIED No. 2

Peel and slice thin ripe fruit, spread on dishes, sprinkle
over the slices granulated sugar, and set in moderate oven
till the peaches are hot, when dry slowly in the sun or cool
oven.

Peaches may also be dried as are cherries with syrup.

PEACH LEATHER

Peel and crush very ripe peaches, spread on platters, and
dry in slow oven. It will be like leather when thoroughly
dried. Roll it up and put away in bags. When needed
for use soak over night with just a little water and it should
then be ready for using without stewing and without sugar.

PEACH SAUCE PRESERVED

Take thoroughly ripe fruit, pare, stone, and cook slowly
an hour. Add sugar in proportion of three-fourths pound
to each four pounds of peaches. For immediate table use
it will not require long cooking, but for putting up it must
become dark in colour and free of juice. Seal while hot.

PEACH JAM, COOKED

Prepare as for Sauce, using a pound of sugar to each
pound of fruit,. It should be very stiff when done. Place
in jars with brandy on top and seal well.

PEACH JAM, UNCOOKED

Pare and slice perfect, freestone peaches. Cover the
_ bottom of a jar with either brown or powdered sugar and

76 FRUIT RECIPES

on this place a layer of the uncooked peaches. Alternate
with the sugar till jar is full, packing down well, and leaving
sugar on top. Place a layer of cotton wadding soaked in
brandy on top; tie a paper over all securely and keep in a
cool dry place.

PEACH MARMALADE No. 1

Pare and stone peaches, cutting pulp fine. Cook with
a few of the cracked kernels over quick fire until soft, add
then same weight of sugar, cook fifteen minutes longer, and
place in jars.
PEACH MARMALADE No. 2

For each pound of pared, sliced fruit allow three-fourths
pound of sugar. Mash well and place in crock in oven,
covering and baking like beans for several hours. When
cooked sufficiently to be jelly-like, remove and place in jars.

PEACH JELLY

Wash and slice but do not pare the fruit, using part un-
ripe and part ripe fruit (the latter firm). Place in
earthenware crock and set in moderate oven or on the back
of the stove with neither sugar nor water, watching care-
fully. Or the fruit may be set inside a second vessel con-
taining hot water and let stand far back on the stove for
twenty-four hours. The juice should by this be free and
thick. Strain over night in cheese-cloth bag. Measure
and use pound for pint of sugar and juice, heating separately
before cooking together. When this juice has cooked
down a little—skimming meanwhile—add sugar gradually
and let boil up. If carefully made this will result in ex-
cellent jelly.

CANNED PEACHES

See Canned Apples.

THE PEACH AND APRICOT 77

BRANDIED PEACHES

See Brandied Pears.

SPICED PEACHES

Peaches may be spiced in either sweet or sour form as
for apples and pears.

PICKLED PEACHES

For sufficient for a two-gallon jar use twenty-five pounds
of peaches and twelve pounds of sugar. (Rub the fuzz from
the peaches with crash.) In the preserving kettle place
two and one half quarts of vinegar with a handful of stick
cinnamon, gradually adding the sugar until all is dis-
solved and boiling. Place the peaches, a few at a time, in
this and when they are done skim them out and place in a
stone jar. Boil down the syrup a little longer, then pour
over the peaches and place a weight on them. In three
days pour off the syrup and boil down till quite thick.
The peaches will by this have shrunk so that they will
easily go into a two gallon jar. Pour the thick syrup over
them; place plate on top and tie down with heavy paper.
Cloves may be used instead of cinnamon or a mixture of
spices as liked.

PEACH MANGOES

Rub the fuzz off of large freestone peaches; cut in half
and stone. Prepare a mixture of equal parts of white mus-
tard, mace, nutmeg, ginger and celery seed and fill the peach
cavities. Sew or tie halves together and fill with them a
stone jar three-fourths full. They may be coloured by
laying among them little bags containing turmeric. In
early days they were also sometimes coloured with
cochineal. Whole cloves may be added to the spice or
pushed into the peaches themselves. Pour cold, strong

78 FRUIT RECIPES

vinegar over the fruit or, if to be kept in a warm climate,
boil the vinegar, scalding the peaches; in either case seal-
ing jars at once.

PICKLED APRICOTS OR PEACHES

Place the fruit in brine for a week, then remove, wipe,
and place.in clean jar. Pour over them boiling vine-
gar, (one gallon to eight pounds of fruit) in which
has been boiled one-half ounce each of whole pepper, white
mustard seed and cloves, and a fourth-ounce of sliced ginger.
Add one teaspoon of salt. Let stand overnight. Re-heat
vinegar and again pour over fruit. Repeat; add fresh to
the spiced vinegar to fill up jars in which fruit is packed.

PEACH BUTTER

Pare, stone and crush very ripe peaches, and simmer
in boiled cider which has been reduced to the thickness of
molasses. To each gallon of the cider (after boiling) should
be added a pound of sugar. To three quarts of the peach
pulp allow a pint of the thick cider and sugar. This may
be spiced if liked.

PEACH CATSUP

Steam the peaches whole and boil till reduced one-third.
To each quart of fruit allow one pound of (loaf) sugar but
do not add till juice has been boiled down one-third. Place
in little bags (loosely) one teaspoon each of broken mace
and whole pepper, two of cinnamon, and half a teaspoon of
cloves. Put these on to boil with the vinegar with which
the pulp and juice (after cooking down) must be thinned,
removing before the fruit and sugar are added.

PEACH CHUTNEY

This requires much less vinegar than apple chutney
and may be taken as a basis for chutney for other similar,

THE PEACH AND APRICOT 19

soft-pulped, juicy fruits. To four pounds of peaches
(skins and pits removed) add one and one-fourth pints
vinegar, and stew together till soft. Mix and pound to-
gether a half pound each of white mustard seed, chopped
onions, raisins, and sugar; one-fourth pound of scraped
ginger root (green) and one-eighth pound each of garlic
and red peppers (dried). When well mixed add to the
peaches with three-fourths pint additional of vinegar. Cook
slowly together fifteen minutes, then place in small jars.

EXTRACTS OF PEACH AND NECTARINE

To each pint of blanched peach pits add one quart of
deodorised spirits. For the nectarine use one pint of nec-
tarine pits and one half pint bruised peach pits and pour
on them a quart of best deodorised spirits. Let stand
indefinitely.

PEACH OR APRICOT WINE No. 1

Use nearly matured fruit and mash well. To each eight
pounds of pulp allow one quart of water. Let it come to a
boil then squeeze out the juice and to each gallon add two
pounds loaf sugar. Ferment as for other wines, bottling
when clear.

PEACH OR APRICOT WINE No. 2

Crack the pits of eight pounds of peaches and place in
the bottom of a tub. Slice the peaches into two gallons
of rain water, adding five pounds of loaf sugar, and boil
together, skimming till no scum rises. Strain, pouring
upon the kernels, stirring, then covering till cold. Place
in this a slice of toast dipped in strong yeast and let all
ferment, straining then into a cask and adding a bottle
of sweet grape wine. Let stand six months then add an
ounce each of gum arabic and powdered chalk (dissolved
in a little of the wine heated slowly), being careful not to

80 FRUIT RECIPES

stir up the lees. At the end of a week this may be bottled
and in eight months is ready for use.

DOMESTIC PEACH BRANDY

Make with two gallons French brandy to one gallon
well flavoured peaches, skinned and mashed. Add to
this the pits from a peck of the fruit and let stand two
months, when filter and bottle.

COMMERCIAL PEACH BRANDY

Mash eighteen pounds of peaches, not removing pits,
and cover with four and three-fourths gallons of 95 %
alcohol and four gallons filtered water, letting stand
twenty-four hours. After mashing, straining and filtering
add two and one-half quarts of sugar syrup and colour
with burnt sugar.

CREME DE NOYEAU

Pound together in a mortar one-fourth pound peach
apricot, or bitter almond pits and pour over them one pint
water and one-half gallon spirits of wine. Cork and
stir and shake each day for eight days when add a syrup
made of a pint of water to a pound of sugar. Strain off
the kernels and let stand another week when bottle.

PEACH VINEGAR

Use peaches which are over-ripe. Mash and mix with
water in such quantity that the latter is strongly flavoured.
To each gallon of this add four ounces brown sugar and a
dessertspoon of yeast. Set the cask in the sun to ferment

CHAPTER VI
THE CHERRY (Prunus cerasus: P. aviunt)

HE common garden cherry, (Amygdalacee) the type
of daintily gay, merrily modest beauty, of an in-
spiring, sweet tartness in flavour and of graceful decision
of form, is of the brave blitheness of hue generally first
noticed by children, which fact, and this alone, is evidently
answerable for the nursery song of ‘‘Cherries are ripe!
Cherries are ripe! Give the baby some’’—since, though
so attractive, cherries are very nearly the most unfit of
all fruits for babies to eat! They have appealed to human-
ity from time immemorial, from the subtly fragrant
blossoms of far Japan which have influenced art itself, to
the gayly dangling red clusters of fruit which have always
tempted the appetite of small boys of the Occident. The
cherry pie has long since been commemorated in the
rhyme of the ‘‘charming Billy Boy,’’ whose sweetheart
could ‘‘make a cherry pie quick as you can wink your eye,”’
while a recent coating of immortality has been applied by
the present generation in ‘‘Cheer up: cherries are ripe!”
And cherries have the actual material or physical element
and power of cheering up certain kinds of depression,
for, aside from from their unvarying cheerfulness of front
which might well have a mental effect, this little fruit is
considered almost a cure for some forms of bladder and
kidney troubles and its “‘red badge of courage’’ is also the
symbol of the remarkable tonic properties of the tree whose
bark has become famous on the continent of North America
as ‘‘bitters’’ and phosphates, etc. These bracing decoc-
81

82 FRUIT RECIPES

tions, as well as the alcoholic, deluding ‘‘Cherry Bounce”
are, in general, manufactured from the North American
wild black cherry, Prunus serotina, and the American
wild Choke Cherry, Prunus Virginiana, which has the
power of ‘‘calming irritation and diminishing excitability—
adapted theoretically to diseases in which debility of the
stomach or of the system is united with general or local
irritation’ (U. S. Dispensatory).

The wild cherry of Europe and England, called
in the latter country the ‘‘gean,” is a source of valued
food supplies to German and French country folk. Bran-
dies, jellies, and other drinks or dishes are made from this
cherry, and from all varieties beverages, chiefly alcoholic,
are distilled. Of the latter Maraschino and Kirschwasser
are the best known though a kind of Ratafia is also made
from the cherry and in Turkey Créme de Noyeau is flavoured
with the Oriental Mahaleb cherry pits instead of almond,
peach, or apricot kernels. Maraschino is made at and
about Zara, the capital of Dalmatia, where the pulp of
the Marasca cherries, or Marazques, is mixed with honey
and sugar or honey is added when distilling the liqueur,
and the greatest care in every way is taken with the dis-
tillation. Kirschwasser is the German fermented drink
from cherries, and ‘‘Cherry Bounce’’ the American.

The cherry, like the muskmelon and nutmeg, seems
to have been introduced from Asia into Italy by Lucullus
—about 70 B. C., and later was taken by the Romans to
England. Whether red, black, yellow, or white, the cherry
has always been a favourite but it must be fully matured
and sweetened before it can be properly eaten since its
type of acidity, while medicine to kidneys and bladder,
is not welcomed by stomachs which are weak, and will
quickly disorder both stomach and bowels if under-ripe
and is also uncooked.

THE CHERRY 83

Cherry wood has a virtue of its own in addition to its
beauty for casks made of it are said to give the finest
flavour to. liquors kept therein. As for the tree itself,
of dimly ancient line, it has been made a particular pet
by the youngest of nations from neither beauty of blossom,
fruit, wood, nor medicinal value, but because Americans
are equally patriots and humourists from the cradle and
the cherry, linked indissolubly with that first of American
nursery tales, of George Washington and his hatchet, has
become a literal ‘‘family tree.”

RECIPES

CHERRY SOUP

For one quart of soup pit and crush a pint of cherries;
add to them the juice of one lemon, sugar to taste, and
a dessertspoon of tapioca or sago. Simmer thirty minutes
with a pint of water; rub smooth through a sieve and
re-heat, adding one tablespoon of claret and a pinch of
salt. Let cool, then place on ice before serving. Reserve
a few stemmed cherries to put in the iced soup at
the last.

CHERRY SALAD ~

Stone ripe, sweet cherries and place in the heart of each
a nut—preferably hazel. Serve on lettuce with mayon-
naise or with a cream or other dressing flavoured well with
Maraschino. (See Introductory Recipes.)

CHERRY SANDWICHES

Mix equal parts of candied or Maraschino cherries, and
chestnuts which have been boiled, blanched, and simmered
in a little syrup (letting stand in this till cold). Spread
long narrow saltines or thin bread and butter with the

84 FRUIT RECIPES

mixture; placing two together and, if bread is used, cutting
diagonally to form triangular sandwiches. A sprinkling
of cress will add piquancy to the flavour.

CHERRY PUDDING
Make as for Currant Pudding. See (Garden) Currants.

UNCOOKED CHERRY BREAD PUDDING

Slice a loaf of dry bread; spread with butter; place in
layers in a pudding-dish with stewed or spiced cherries
poured over. Let stand a half hour and serve with a
custard or German Sauce.

GERMAN CHERRY SAUCE

Crush a pound of cherries with the seeds until the ‘meat
of the pits’’ is tender, then put through coarse sieve, add one
pint of wine with as much sugar as desired, and boil till
thick as cream. This may be spiced if liked.

CHERRY PIE

Make as for gooseberry pie or tarts, using tart red cher-
ries.
CHERRY BAVARIAN CREAM
Use the foundation recipe given in Introductory Recipes,
adding two tablespoons Kirschwasser or Maraschino and
three-fourths cup of chopped, candied cherries.

CHERRY FLOAT

Thicken the juice from a quart of stewed and sweetened
cherries with a teacup of cornstarch dissolved in cherry
juice (cold) or cold water. Add juice of a lemon or orange
and when cooled pour over the cherries which should be
ready in the serving dish.

THE CHERRY 85

FROSTED CHERRIES
Frost as for grapes, leaving on the stems. See Grapes.

CHERRY CAKE ICING

Allow four tablespoons of cherry juice to one cup granu-
lated sugar, cooking together until the syrup threads.
Beat this into the stiff-whipped white of an egg.

CHERRY ICE

Stone and mash two quarts of cherries and place over
them one quart of sugar and a wineglass of claret. Let
stand five or six hours, adding to them the crushed kernels
of ten cherries. Strain and freeze.

.Or, use the syrup from stewed or spiced cherries. For
sherbet add the usual whipped whites of eggs. (See
Introductory Recipes.)

CHERRY ICE CREAM

Make the foundation ice cream or custard (given in
Introductory Recipes), flavouring with cherry syrup,
cordial, spiced cherries, Maraschino, or other form of pre-
served cherries. Use a few of the crushed kernels to
flavour additionally.

FROZEN CHERRIES

Use the ripest cherries of the darkest varieties. Stone
and place over them a quart of sugar to two quarts of
cherries. Let stand an hour or more; add a wineglass
of Maraschino or cordial; place in freezer; pack and let
stand in salt and ice six hours.

CHERRIES WITH ICE CREAM

Serve vanilla ice cream with brandied, spiced, or stewed
cherries as a hot or cold sauce. (Unless fresh-picked,

86 FRUIT RECIPES

uncooked cherries are very ripe indeed and very sweet
the combination is not always a safe one.)

CHERRY JELLY No. 1

Let cherries not fully mature stand in a crock on the
back of the stove, or in slow oven till all juice is extracted,
then strain, cook down one-third, and measure, allowing
one pound of sugar for each pint of juice. Heat separately,
then cook together twenty minutes or until it jells.

CHERRY JELLY No. 2 (With Currant)

Use equal parts of cherries and currants, proceeding
as for No. 1.

CHERRY JELLY No. 3 (With Raspberry)
Use equal parts of raspberry and cherry as above (No 2),

FOUR FRUIT JELLY (Old Recipe)

Use equal parts cherry, strawberry, raspberry. and cur-
rant, stoning cherries and saving juice which exudes.
Mix and crush, then squeeze hard; strain through linen
bag and measure. Allow a pound and two ounces of loaf
sugar for each pint of juice; put together in preserving
kettle, boiling and skimming. It should jell after twenty
minutes boiling; may take a little longer.

CHERRY JAM No. 1

Stone cherries and weigh, allowing equal parts of fruit
and sugar. Place in preserving kettle and let stand over
night, then boil till the jam jellies from the spoon. Place
in jam pots.

CHERRY JAM No. 2 (With Currant Juice)

To six pounds of cherries (after stoning) allow two pounds
of currants. Mash and place currants with half the pits of

THE CHERRY 87

the cherries, cracked, in a double boiler and cook thirty
minutes, after this straining through linen bag. Add this
liquor to the cherries (mashed) and cook to half the original
quantity. Have ready a thick syrup and add six pounds
of it to the fruit, stirring, skimming, and cooking till the
syrup beads. Stir in either two wineglasses of Kirsch-
wasser or Maraschino; remove, and fill jars.

CHERRY JAM No. 3

Cook together three pints each of cherries and currant or
raspberry juice till reduced one-half when add three pounds
of sugar. Cook as for Cherry Jam No. 2.

PRESERVED CHERRIES No. 1

Preserve cherries with the usual pound for pound of
sugar and fruit, making a syrup with either alittle cold water
or light wine. Grape Juice may also be used. (See Grapes.)

PRESERVED CHERRIES—WITH LEMON No. 2

* .To each six pounds of tart fruit allow the rind of three
lemons, simmering the latter thirty minutes, then straining
off the water. Meantime cut fine the lemon pulp, freeing it
from seeds and heavy “‘rag.’’ Make a syrup of three pounds
of sugar to one pint of water (using that in which the lemon
peel simmered). Skim, boil and add cherries, letting boil
five minutes. Add the lemon pulp and boil three minutes
longer, then put fruit in jars, pouring over it the hot syrup.

PRESERVED CHERRIES—WITH CURRANTS No. 3

To eight pounds of cherries, stoned, add two pounds of
stemmed currants and sugar equal in weight to the fruit.
, After the sugar has dissolved cook together slowly thirty
minutes.

88 FRUIT RECIPES

CANNED CHERRIES

* In canning cherries use tart fruit. Allow three-fourths
pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Figs, pears, or pine-
apples may be canned with the cherries or added later ; thus
also with jam or preserves.

BRANDIED CHERRIES

Use, preferably, white cherries. Leave a bit of stem on
each one. Place in layers in jars and fill up with brandy,
letting stand two days. Have ready a thick syrup, drain
the liquor from the cherries and add equal quantity of
boiling syrup to the brandy. Strain and pour over the
fruit, letting stand this time twelve hours—the fruit bottled
and corked. Next day fill up any space with syrup till
just below corks, then seal.

PICKLED CHERRIES (Uncooked)

Clip, leaving an inch of the stems. Place in jars in layers,
alternating with thick layers of powdered sugar. Fill three-
fourths full. Fill up with cold, spiced vinegar and seal; or
thin bags of spices may be placed among the cherries and
plain vinegar poured over fruit and sugar.

PICKLED CHERRIES (Cooked)

To two pounds of cherries allow one pound of sugar and
one-half pint vinegar. Pour this boiling hot over the
cherries. If the yellow cherries are used place them in the
kettle and boil a few minutes with the syrup. Add spice
or not and omit part of the sugar if desired more tart.

CHERRY CATSUP

To each pound of cherries allow a pound of sugar, boiling
together, then straining. To every quart of the liquor allow

THE CHERRY 89

a teaspoon each of mace, pepper, ginger, cinnamon, and a
half teaspoon of cloves. Boil these with the syrup; strain
and add to the crushed fruit passed through a sieve. Boil
till thick and reduce with strong vinegar. Bottle while
hot.
CHERRY BRANDY

To each quart of juice resulting from crushed cherries
(uncooked) allow a gallon of spirits or brandy, add the
pits, crushed, let stand three weeks and strain.

DOMESTIC KIRSCHWASSER

Pour a gallon of brandy over a pound of garden or wild
ripe cherries or plums, crushing well both fruit and kernels.
Add two pounds of sugar and let stand five weeks, when
strain and bottle.

The imported Kirschwasser is made by letting the wild,
ripe, black cherry ferment in its own juice, after bruising the
pulp of the fruit, and stirring several times daily after fer-
mentation has begun. At this stage the bruised kernels are
added and the mixture let stand for some weeks before
straining.

CHERRY CORDIAL

To a gallon of strained juice add two pounds sugar and
boil thirty minutes. Add one half pint spirits (preferably
brandy), let cool and bottle.

CHERRY PUNCH

Pit and mash one pound of cherries and place in bowl
with the juice of three lemons, two oranges, and a slice or
two of pineapple, covering with one pint of sugar. Let
stand an hour when press and strain. Heat this and adda
quart each of carbonated water and claret, a sliced banana
and one fourth pound of very ripe cherries or the candied
or (whole) preserved fruit.

go FRUIT RECIPES

CHERRY JUICE AND PRESERVED SYRUP ‘

Prepare and cook as for jelly, for the simple juice adding
a half-pint of sugar to each quart of juice and for the syrup
making an addition of one pint of sugar to each pint of
fruit juice.

CHERRY SHRUB

Cherry shrub is a modified form of the syrup. To each
quart of cherries add one cup of water and stew till soft.
Press and strain the fruit; allow a cup of sugar for each
pint of juice; boil to a syrup; strain, and bottle while hot.

CHERRY BOUNCE OR WILD CHERRY RUM

On four pounds of wild cherries, mashed with the pits
broken and bruised, pour five quarts of rum. Let stand
in stone jar or crock two weeks, stirring daily. Then press
the fruit well, add five and one-fourth quarts of water in
which have been dissolved two and one-half pounds of
sugar. Filter and bottle.

CHERRY VINEGAR (For Flavouring Salads, Etc.)

Stem and crush Morella cherries, allowing for each quart
of cherries two quarts of vinegar. Let stand four weeks,
when. strain and bottle.

CHERRY VINEGAR

Cover several bushels of mashed cherries with water
and let stand forty-eight hours ina tub. Drain and press
through a bag. To the resulting liquor add half as much
water and to each half-gallon of the mixture two ounces of
sugar. Let ferment.

DRIED CHERRIES No. 1

Stone and spread in thin layers on earthenware; sprinkle
sugar over and dry in slow oven, the hot sun, or fruit-dryer.

THE CHERRY gr

DRIED CHERRIES No. 2

Stew cherries with a little sugar (no water) then spread
on earthenwareand dry inslow oven. Cook down the syrup
and when the fruit is dry pour it over the cherries, a little
each day till all is used, drying again in the oven and re-
peating till all the syrup is used.

CANDIED CHERRIES

‘There are several methods of candying cherries or any
fruit. One method is to use. pound for pound of sugar and
fruit, placing sugar in a kettle, allowing for each pound a
scant half-cup of water and simmering till dissolved. Skim,
and when the syrup is boiling add the cherries. Let the
fruit cook very slowly until translucent, when pour off the
syrup, spread fruit in dishes, and dry in a slow oven or the
sun for ten hours or until dry. Sprinkle with sugar and put
away in layers.

The second method, which is better for heavier fruits,
but may also be applied to cherries, is to make a lighter
syrup, using a half-pint of water to each pint of sugar and
letting come to a boil, cooking then for two minutes. Pour
then over the fruitandlet all stand a dayand night. Drain-
add to the syrup half the quantity of sugar used the day
previous and boil until this is dissolved. Pour over the
fruit and let all stand for forty-eight hours. Repeat
the process, letting fruit stand in the syrup four different
times, when drain and wash in cold water.

If to be glazed the fruit should be dipped in syrup (as for
crystallising), then dried as quickly as possible in the open
air or by electrical fans. If to be crystallised dip in a
syrup which will string (like candy) from the spoon and dry
in oven or sun very slowly.

In some places the fruit for candying is first (after wash-
ing, wiping, and cutting as required) soaked in brine, then

92 FRUIT RECIPES

placed in boiling water, the time depending upon the kind
of fruit and its stage of maturity.

MARASCHINO RECIPES

In Zara, Dalmatia, there are various special dishes made
with the Marasquin or Maraschino, as “‘ Maraschino Jelly”’
and ‘‘Creme de Maraschino.” For the former beat well
the yellows of ten eggs with a little sugar and about
one-fourth as much cream. Heat slowly and care-
fully till it thickens well, then let cool, add Maraschino
to taste, and place ina mould to harden. For the Creme de
Maraschino whip cream till stiff, add a little sugar, a few
drops of vanilla, one tablespoon Maraschino, and one-half as
much of powdered macaroons as of whipped cream. Mix
well and serve in tall glasses. Delightful drinks may be
made by using iced orange- or pineapple- or other fruit-
ade (mixed with carbonated water, as a basis, adding sugar
and Maraschino to taste). Or iced tea may be the
foundation.

CHAPTER VII

THE PLUM (Common Garden Plum: Prunus domes-
tica: Amygdalacee)

HE Prunus or plum, considered as an individual fruit,
has again under its division various kinds of plums,
all of which are supposed to have originated from the Sloe
or Blackthorn, or Prunus spinosa, from which the Bullace
(Prunus insititia) is considered the next step, a second or
middle stage. Concerning this, as with the peach, there
is still a little ambiguity, since the three are in many ways
as different as in other points the resemblance is marked.
The red, cherry-plum, or Myrobalan, is thought to be next
of kin, onward, from the Bullace. The plum has been
found wild nearly all over Asia and from Asia its
introduction into Russia and other parts of Europe
was evidently very early. The damson plums are said to
take their name from Damascus where they were first
known.

The Beach Plum (Prunus maritima), and the wild red
and yellow plum (Prunus Americana), with the Chickasaw
(P. Chicasa)—all of them wild American species—furnish
variety of form and colour rivalled only by the domestic,

. cultivated species all over the world. Their rich smooth-

ness often tempts the palate before the fruit is properly

‘ripened, which sometimes leads to the belief that it is the

plum which is at fault. The traditional “sugar plum”

and the fetching rhyme of Jack Horner point to an ancient

delight in the fruit which gradually attached itself asa
93

94 FRUIT RECIPES

general term to sweetmeats or stood as the symbol of all
sugared and particularly mysterious goodies.

The leaves of the sloe are sometimes steeped to be used
as tea, and the fruit, which is so astringent as to stop the
flow of blood, is, when unripe, not infrequently pickled,
resulting in an excellent resemblance to olives.

Prunes, the dried form of certain varieties of plums, are
as food the most valuable of all of them. Over a century
ago Richard Brook declared them ‘‘both food and physick”
and such they are to-day. A German chemist, Bonneberg,
has extracted crystallisable sugar from prunes equal to
cane sugar. With their large amount of nitrogenous ele-
ments and great percentage of sugar the nourishing
qualities of prunes are indisputable and virtually unsur-
passed among fruits and, in the sense of being fine for the
nerves, may be termed ‘‘brain food.’”” They are laxative,
giving this property to water in which they may be stewed
and which, therefore, is sometimes used as a vehicle for or
addition to purgative medicines. Like other dried fruits,
prunes should be pretty well softened—-soaked or stewed—
that they may be thoroughly masticated and digested, for
they are a concentrated food and their skins of a texture
requiring deliberate processes whether of softening or
chewing. Like other plums, or plums in less mature stages,
prunes are apt to cause unpleasant sensations of griping
when eaten in any great quantity at one time.

In Hungary a brandy is distilled from prunes called
Zwetschenbrannwein, which contains about 40 per cent. of
alcohol. In parts of France a strong alcoholic beverage is
distilled from plums by mixing honey and flour with them;
Kirschwasser is sometimes manufactured from wild plums; a
pleasant wine is made from various kinds—wild or culti-
vated—and where apples are added in process of fermenta-
tion a strong liquor results,

THE PLUM 95

RECIPES

PLUM SOUP

Make with large sweet plums, as for cherry soup, or use
part plums and part cherries. (See Fruit Soups, Intro-
ductory Recipes.)

PLUM SALADS

Greengages make one of the prettiest of fruit salads.
They may be used with bananas—halved or cubed—with
good effect. Sprinkle powdered sugar over and let stand
an hour or under before serving, or marinate in olive oil,
flavoured with a cordial or ¢queur, or use the cordial alone,
serving with whipped cream. (See Introductory Recipes:
for Fruit Salads.)

WILD PLUM MARMALADE

Cover well with water and cook wild red plums until
soft; let stand till cool, then drain and put through a
coarse sieve. Use pound for pound of fruit and sugar,
cooking down till thick. The water in which the plums
were simmered may be added to the fruit and sugar or not,
as preferred, as it may be set aside for other uses.

SWEET PLUM MARMALADE

If plums are very large, soft, sweet, and thoroughly mature,
peel and remove seeds and skins. They will require no
water. Place in crock and proceed as with peach jelly
to extract juice. Strain this off, through sieve, and add
two-thirds as much sugar as pulp. Simmer slowly, stir-
ring carefully, and cook twenty minutes or until thick.
The fruit juice may be added or not.

PLUM AND CRAB APPLE MARMALADE
See Crab Apple Marmalade.

96 FRUIT RECIPES

DAMSON PLUM JAM

Wash, halve, and pit the damsons, barely cover with
water and cook'till skins break, when add pound for pound
of sugar to the fruit and juice and cook down till thick.
For marmalade cook with the stones, putting through a
sieve or colander to remove pits when fruit is soft, then
cooking fifteen minutes with the sugar.

APRICOT AND PLUM JAM

Use half and half of apricot and plum and make by usual
method for jams. The apricots may be used dried and
soaked or steamed.

PLUM AND LEMON JAM

Use with greengages, the grated rind and juice of a
lemon for each quart of fruit.

PLUM JELLY No. 1

If the plums are very tart or bitter a little soda may be
added, about one dessertspoonful for each peck of fruit,
letting all come to a boil. Drain and add fresh water,
barely enough to cover, cooking down till plums are tender.
Strain through a flannel bag (over night if possible; a
cheese cloth bag will facilitate matters but it must not be
squeezed). Let cook down one-fourth; skim and add
sugar in equal proportion to weight of fruit. When sugar
has dissolved the juice will jell in twenty minutes or under.

PLUM JELLY No. 2

Use wild plums, the fruit or juice—one-third or one-fourth
part plums—with juice of crab apples. This combination
makes a beautiful colour and delicious flavour.

THE PLUM 97

PEUMS SPICED

When making marmalade with plums that do not re-
quire soda (for bitterness or extreme acidity) save the
water poured off-after simmering to tenderness and cook
down one-fourth or till rather thick. To a quart of this
juice add a pint each of sugar and vinegar, a teaspoon of
allspice and one-half teaspoon each of mace, cloves, and cin-
namon. Pour, after boiling thirty minutes, over fresh,
ripe plums which have (each) been pricked in several
places. Place in heated jars; cover and let stand twelve
hours; drain; re-cook syrup and pour over plums. Re-
peat, letting syrup thicken to one-half the last cooking.
Seal while hot. <A syrup of the sugar and vinegar may be
used without adding fruit juice.

PLUM BUTTER

In jelly-making the plums left may be put through a
sieve, then placed on stove with equal quantity of sugar,
cooking an hour or longer, till thick as desired. This may
be spiced if liked. (See Peach Butter.)

PLUM CATSUP

To four quarts plums (preferably damsons) add one
quart water, cooking very slowly till fruit is tender, when
press through coarse sieve and return to kettle. Add one
pound sugar, one-half teaspoon each of cloves, allspice,
and pepper,and one of cinnamon. Cook till thick as wished
and bottle while hot.

WILD PLUM CATSUP

To each five pounds of plums take two and one-half
pounds sugar cooking, crushing, and putting through sieve.
To each quart of juice add a generous half-pint of vinegar
and spice to taste. Cook twenty minutes and bottle.

98 FRUIT RECIPES

PLUM PASTE

For this use tart but juicy plums and cook in their own
juice until soft. Remove stones and press pulp through
sieve; weigh, and replace on stove. Allow and set aside
half this weight in sugar. Cook pulp slowly an hour
before adding sugar; let latter dissolve and boil one minute.
Pour the mass into earthen dishes in quarter-inch thickness,
and dry slowly in cool oven. Remove and pack away for
use in ornamenting puddings or cakes or to dilute and serve

as sauce,
PLUMS DRIED WITH SUGAR

Cut open plums of some sweet variety, but do not re-
move stones. Place on plates and sprinkle sugar over fruit,
setting in a slow oven. The sugar will be absorbed by the
plums, when add more sugar and repeat as long as there is
juice sufficient to take it up. Pack in layers in jars.

TO DRY PLUMS WHOLE (‘American Prunes’’)

Take ripe purple plums and spread on earthen dishes.
Dry in the sun, putting them out each day to dry eight or
ten hours, or use a cool oven, turning the fruit over fre-

quently.
PLUM LEATHER

Remove the pits of thoroughly ripe greengages and mash
the fruit, then proceed as with peach leather. Add sugar

to the plums.
PRESERVED PLUMS

With the common wildor blue plums they may be steamed
or dropped for a minute or two in boiling water to loosen
the skin, which may then easily be removed. After this
proceed as with other preserves.

With other plums prick the skins in several places with
a large needle to keep them from bursting, then place in

THE PLUM 99

layers in preserving kettle, allowing same amount of sugar.
Let all come to a boil slowly; take out plums with skimmer;
drain, and spread on plates in the sun. Cook down the
syrup slowly for half an hour, skimming often; place
plums in-this for ten minutes (boiling them). Drain and
dry as before and when quite cold place in jars, heated
pouring the boiling syrup over the fruit and sealing a

once.
PICKLED PLUMS No. 1

Pour over hard, unripe plums which have been washed,
dried, and pricked in a number of places, boiling, spiced
vinegar, repeating three times.

PICKLED PLUMS No. 2

Plums of any kind may also be pickled like cherries
(cold), placed in jars in layers, alternating with layers of
sugar; cold vinegar poured over, and sealed. :

BRANDIED PLUMS No. 1

to

Select greengages which are full-sized but still hard, and
place in layers in jars. To each pint of white brandy allow
two and one-half ounces granulated sugar; pour over and

seal tight.
BRANDIED PLUMS No. 2

Make a syrup as for preserves. When thick add two-
thirds part of brandy and pour over the fruit.

PLUM WINE

To four gallons of damsons add five and a half gallons
of soft water. Simmer till tender, when strain; add fifteen
pounds of sugar and six ounces red tartar. Strain and
let ferment as with other wines. Or a syrup may be made
of the sugar and water and cooked with the plums two

100 FRUIT RECIPES

hours. One-fourth pint of yeast may be added to this
and let ferment ten days covered. With either formula
the bruised kernels of half the plums should be added to
the mixture and let stand till after fermentation.

PLUM BRANDY

Simmer two gallons of greengages (in barely enough water
to cover) till soft. Add two pounds sugar and a gallon of
brandy and let stand corked three months, when filter.

Or cover two gallons uncooked mashed plums with one
gallon of brandy, adding the cracked stones and kernels,
letting stand as above.

PLUM VINEGAR

For two quarts of plums allow a gallon of water and let
stand twenty-four hours. Add one-half pint sugar for
each gallon of liquid; place in barrel in warm place (where
it should be shaken each day while fermenting.)

PLUM TRIFLE

Cook plums slowly till soft when rub through sieve and
let cool. To each cup of pulp add the whites of three eggs
beaten stiff and a little sugar. Drop a spoonful of this on
cups two-thirds full of a simple custard, letting the fruit
meringue heap up well. Serve cold.

PLUM DUFF

Mix with a sweet soft biscuit dough chopped plums
(fresh or dried), using one quart of plums to each pint of
flour, and tie up in a well-dredged pudding cloth, boiling
hard three hours. A simple stiff batter pudding (see
Introductory Recipes) may be used with the fruit instead.

THE PLUM IOI

PLUM PUDDING
See Raisins.

PLUM CAKE
See Raisins.

. PLUM ICES

Crack half the kernels and bruise the pits, boiling them
in the syrup or hot milk to extract the flavour, then strain.
With damsons use no pits. Then proceed as for general
directions in Introductory Recipes.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

For tarts, puddings, and all other forms of fruit dishes
see Introductory Recipes or these for other fruits.

PRUNE RECIPES

PRUNE SOUP No. 1

Soak one pound of prunes in one quart of cold water,
first washing well. In the morning place on the back of
the stove with an additional generous pint of water, letting
come slowly to the simmering point. Add a little cinna-
mon and lemon peel and two tablespoons sago or tapioca,
letting barely simmer until prunes are tender and the sago or
tapioca clear, when stir in one-half cup of claret; let boil
up, then remove immediately and serve.

PRUNE SOUP No. 2

Use one-third prunes and two-thirds peaches, fresh or
dried, if the latter, soak, simmer, and mash to a pulp
through a sieve. Dilute with boiling water; two pints to
each pint of fruit and thicken with a dessertspoon of corn-
starch.

102 FRUIT RECIPES

STEWED PRUNES
Wash well, then soak over night and stew (whole) in same
water with juice of an orange or a little sherry, and English
walnuts.
PRUNES SPICED
Prunes may be very simply spiced by stewing, as above,
with the addition of a little lemon peel and a half-teaspoon
each of allspice and cinnamon, or spicing as for plums,
pears, etc., allowing a cup of vinegar to each pint of the
dried prunes. (See plums, etc.)

STUFFED PRUNES

Soak large prunes over night then make an incision at
one end large enough to remove stones, and fill space with
chopped nuts and sugar; roll the prunes after this in sugar,
then dry. May be kept ten days before using.

PRUNE CROQUETTES

Stiffen prune pulp (prepared as for soup) with fine
cracker or breadcrumbs, adding also, if liked, chopped
nuts; roll in egg, then in crumbs, and fry in deep kettle of
boiling fat.

PRUNE BETTY AND BREAD PUDDING

Make first as for apple ‘‘Brown Betty.’’ For bread pud-
ding see Introductory Recipes, and Pear Bread Pudding.

PRUNE DUMPLINGS AND SUET PUDDING
Make as directed in Apple and Peach recipes.

PRUNE PONE OR BREAD

Scald one-half pint cornmeal; stir into it two cups of
flour (preferably one of graham and one of white); one-
half cup molasses; one cup each sour milk and washed,

THE PLUM 103

chopped, dried prunes. Use with milk one scant teaspoon
soda. Steam in a mould three hours or bake two (moder-
ate oven). Serve with sweet sauce or rich milk.

PRUNE CAKE

Have ready a cup of chopped nuts and two of chopped,
dried, steamed prunes. Alternate these in layers with
cake batter made with three eggs, one and one-half cups
sugar, three-fourths cup sweet milk, one-half cup butter,
and one teaspoon baking-powder sifted through three cups
of flour. Bake in moderate oven till done through. Or
this may be all stirred together.

PRUNE ROLL
Make as for Apple Roly Poly, baking or steaming.

PRUNE SHORTCAKE

Flavour stewed prunes with orange, cherry, or other
tart fruit juice, mash to a pulp and serve as for strawberry
shortcake. (See Strawberries.)

PRUNE TART

Line sides of baking-dish with pastry and fill middle
of dish with fresh or soaked, pitted prunes. Sprinkle over
them sugar with a tablespoon of flour and bake. When fruit
is tender and juicy pour over it the yolks of three eggs,
beaten with a spoonful of cream, one-half cup each of sugar
and cake crumbs. Bake till done when place on top a
meringue made with the whites of the eggs and half a cup
of sugar flavoured with vanilla. Let brown.

SHERRIED PRUNES

Wash, then soak prunes over night, simmering next day,
in very little water, till tender enough to pit. Have soaking

104 FRUIT RECIPES

a half-box of gelatine (this quantity to each original quart
of prunes put to soak) and place prunes with the gelatine
in stewpan till gelatine is thoroughly melted. Add a
heaping teaspoon of sugar, the grated juice and rind of two
oranges and one-half cup of sherry; remove from fire; let
cool, then place on ice to chill. This will not make a solid
form but should be of the consistency of thick custard.

PRUNE SPONGE

This may be made with the prune pulp instead of the
whole fruit. (See Introductory Recipes.)

PRUNE GELATINE

Allow one-half box of gelatine to each pound of prunes
which should be soaked over night (after thorough washing),
simmered fifteen minutes, and pitted. Have the gelatine
soaking in cold water—one-half pint of water to each half
box of gelatine—and when soft pour on it one pint of
boiling water with juice of two lemons and one and one-
half cups of sugar. Let cool, stirring till it thickens slightly
when place half of this in a wet mould. When firm lay
on it the prunes and pour over them the rest of the jelly.

The gelatine may be made into plain lemon or wine jelly.
instead of being merely flavoured with lemon. Serve
with whipped cream.

PRUNE SOUFFLE

Take one-half pound stewed prune pulp (prepared as for
soup); add juice of one lemon, three-fourths cup of sugar,
and the stiff-whipped whites of four eggs. Turn into the
soufflé dish, sprinkling sugar over the top and baking in
brisk oven ten minutes, or till brown.

THE PLUM 105

INDIVIDUAL PRUNE PUDDINGS

Make as above but bake in cups or ramekins, serving
cold with whipped cream.

“PRUIN SAUCE” (Squire Hardcastle)

“‘Certainly there is no better relish for game, mutton,:
lamb, fowls of every sort, even roast pork, provided it be
tender and crisp enough. Wash a pound of small prunes
and put them on in plenty of cold water with the juice of
two lemons and their thin yellow peel, four blades of mace,
two dozen whole cloves, and a bunch of whole allspice,
reinforced with a single peppercorn. Cook for two hours,
simmering gently and filling up as the water wastes. Then
put in two cups of sugar and simmer another hour until
the syrup is thick and rich. Then add a half cup of cider
vinegar, let boil five minutes, and your sauce is done. It
is in truth a very rich, sweet pickle, which will keep
indefinitely. Martha McCulloch Williams.’

PRUNE SNOW

This is made as for Prune Soufflé but served at once,
uncooked.
PRUNE ICES

For a simple ice simmer one pound of prunes till tender,
remove pits, and put through coarse sieve. This may be
used with the foundation syrup for water ices, adding
juice of one lemon for each pint of the mixture. It may
also be added to the foundation ice cream or custard (see
Introductory Recipes), or the stewed prunes, pitted, may
be packed and frozen (whole) with the addition of any
tart fruit juice.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS
For custards, tapioca, etc., see Introductory Recipes.

CHAPTER VIII
THE NORTHERN PAPAW (Asimina triloba)

HE common wild Northern, American papaw, Asimina
triloba, belongs to the Anonacee@, or Custard Apple
Family, which has very interesting tropical members—
in fact, according to Gray, they are “‘all tropical except
the single genus, Asimina, Papaw of the United States.”’
Yet the tropical papaw of the West Indies, the Carica
Papaya, is an entirely different fruit—not related, as so
often supposed to be. ;

The wild Northern papaw inspires extremes of admira-
tion or dislike as a fruit food, but those who decry it are
very often those who once were too fond and over-indulged
in its richness. Northerners are not accustomed to using
it in any way except ‘‘out of hand,” but it may be baked
or used in delicate desserts such as gelatine, cornstarch, or
egg combinations, even using it as filling for tarts. For
tarts it may be spiced and used as is pumpkin-pulp
(cooked) for pies.

The papaw has fine tonic qualities but it is so rich and
nourishing a food that it is anything but ‘“‘light’”’ and
should not be used in great quantity in connection with
other concentrated, or with lighter foods, if the latter
“‘spread the board” in great abundance.

106

CHAPTER IX

THE WILD NORTHERN PERSIMMON

Diospyros Virginiana

HE wild Northern persimmon (‘‘Diospyracee,”’ gener-
ally considered of the Ebony Family) is a very nour-
ishing, attractive and delicious fruit after being touched
by frost when in its sweetness and form it proves the
applicability of its nickname, ‘“‘Date Plum.’’ It has enor-
mous riches of sugar and is fattening as well as toothsome—
all of which the ‘possums and other wild creatures discov-
ered centuries ago. These veritable sugar-plums, the
familiar, oddly wrinkled lumps of sun-transmuted astrin-
gency which hang temptingly among quaint, tinted
leaves, may be used in a numberof ways for the table.

It must be remembered always, however, that the persim-
mon is a ‘‘hearty’’ food, containing concentrated riches—
chiefly of sugar—and so may not be eaten in quantity
indiscriminately. Properly treated it will keep a long
time and its possibilities as a food will surprise those who
care to experiment affectionately with it.

To dry it for future use hang in a cool, dry place, then use
it uncooked, or in cookery as is the Kaki, or Japanese per-
simmon, or the date. It may be fermented by the usual
processes for wine, beer, and vinegar. The seeds, browned
in the oven and ground, are in some parts of the South used
as a substitute for coffee.

107

CHAPTER X
THE GRAPE (Vitis)

HE grape (Nat. Ord. Vitacee@) is by common consent
ranked next to the apple in point of concentrated
health value; by many it is put first and no fruit has been
so widely used as a systematic ‘‘cure,’’ one recognised by
the medical profession as filling perfectly the promise or
meaning of this term. The foreign, scientific and practical
method of taking this treatment, under the care of physi-
cians, is no more unusual than the taking of mineral waters
at resorts established in the vicinity of medicinal springs.
Its health-giving qualities were known ages ago and its
habitual use in the form of the simple fruit, the unfermented
juice, or wine, are mentioned familiarly in the earliest
Biblical and secular historical records. The old Greeks
and Persians valued it and preserved the fresh fruit as far
out of season as possible, making also a syrup which con-
tained its fresh flavour and aroma.

In the grape-cures different kinds of grapes—those
varying in sweetness, etc., are used, as individual cases
seem to require. Some grapes contain as high as 30% of
sugar or as low as 10% and this element is one of the most
important contained in the fruit. There are also in it
albuminous matter, gum, dextrine, tartrates of soda, potash,
phosphoric acid, lime, magnesia, and iron, and a large per
cent. of water. In addition, as Holbrook states, ‘‘No
grape ig entirely devoid of the vinous acid, similar to the
malic acid of the apple,’’ and ‘‘some grapes contain con-
siderable tannin and fatty oils.” The colouring matter

108

THE GRAPE 109

exists in but slight quantity. Genuine cream of tartar is
the ‘‘natural salt of the grape’’ and tartaric acid, which
occurs in grapes in an acid potassium salt, is prepared for
commercial use from ‘‘tartar or argol, an impure acid
potassium tartrate, deposited from wine, or rather from
grape juice in the act of fermentation”’ (purified by chem-
ical process). Fownes’ Manual of Chemistry.

Lemons and grapes contain most abundanffy the potash
salts of which all fruits have important quantities, and of
these two fruits grapes are better fitted for use as food proper
and are perhaps adapted to a larger percentage of the
human beings whose digestive organs are in need of repair.
For this reason the grape has been chosen as the most
attractive and direct method or vehicle for the conveyance
of potash salts into the system and by means of it wonderful
results—yet not surprising—have been accomplished. Both
the water and sugar of the grape require virtually no di-
gestion but are taken ‘‘almost at once into the blood.’”’ The
kidneys, liver, intestines, and other organs are cleared and
strengthened by the mineral elements of this fruit; in fact,
if the grape were a patent medicine more could hardly be
claimed for it as, in addition, it is recommended and given
to cure almost every form of respiratory ailment, for the
nerves, the blood, the spleen, and for skin affections. The
grape-cure proper limits the quantity of grapes given as well
as the variety of grape and restricts patients in regard to
other foods although taken in conjunction with a prescribed
diet of wholesome dishes. Without doubt, where any
serious affection seems to obtain, the grape-cure or grapes
in any unusual quantity should be taken under the direction
of those familiar with the. physiological effects and benefit,
or otherwise, in relation to special conditions, although in
“health or general ill-health’? where a tonic is needed, the
grape is almost invariably helpful.

110 FRUIT RECIPES

(As food for stock-grape seeds are considered as good
as oats in some portions of Europe, and, dried and ground,
are used by peasants as a substitute for coffee).

Raisins are the dried form of grape as prunes are of
certain plums, and, like prunes, dates, and dried figs, etc.,
contain concentrated food value. They have more pro-
tein, fat, carbohydrates, and ash than prunes and more fat
and ash than dates, figs, or dried apricots, ranking in fuel
value close to them. (See W. O. Atwater’s and M. E.
Jaffa’s tables of food values appended.) Raisins are an
excellent diet combined with other foods, furnishing suffi-
cient sugar of themselves to sweeten most dishes, but they
should be either cooked till the skins are thoroughly tender
or, if eaten uncooked, the skins should be eschewed as well
as the seeds, as neither one can be recommended as readily
digestible.

The commercial name of the Passule minores—the
smaller, dried, reddish or bluish, sweet, thin-skinned
“‘berries’’ of the grape—is Corinthian raisins or Zante
Currants, the first name being directly derived from Cor-
inth, near which place they were first raised, and from their
resemblance to garden currants (see Currants or Berries);
though some authorities claim the naming of currants
from these grapes, reversely. The ‘‘currants” of
commerce are dried in the sun and packed when
their food value is positive and concentrated, similar
to that of raisins. If eaten with regularity it is
claimed they are blood purifiers as well as nourishment.
Those who suffer from uric acid troubles are sometimes
advised to eat certain quantities (up to eight ounces) daily.
They may be served alone, scalded, or as adjuncts to other
dishes, but, while the skin is thinner than that of raisins
they should be thoroughly masticated and in the case of
use for children, previously softened or chopped.

THE GRAPE 1II

GRAPE RECIPES

TO PRESERVE GRAPES UNCOOKED

There are several methods of doing this and the attempt
is worth making as grapes uncooked are at their best in fla-
vour and health-giving elements. Unfermented grape juice’
the next best method of keeping the full grape value.

GRAPES IN SAWDUST, SAND, ASHES, AND COTTON

An old-fashioned method of keeping grapes (which, at
the start, must be without blemish) was similar to methods
now used with white grapes or those shipped any distance:
packing in bran or sawdust thoroughly dried in the sun or
moderate oven, then allowed to cool perfectly, spreading
a layer of sawdust on the bottom of a box, then a layer
of the fruit, with bran or sawdust between so that bunches
cannot touch. The last layer of bran should be rather
thick and the top of the box screwed on so that the grapes
may both be air tight and not jarred more than neces-
sary. Fine, well-sifted wood ashes and sand were also for-
merly used in this manner and not infrequently cotton wad-
ding was employed in the same way.

GRAPES SEALED WITH WAX

Have ready hot sealing wax and in it dip the cut ends
of each bunch-stem. Remove all imperfect grapes and
place bunch in a bag of thin paper or a sheet of some soft
paper, gathering it up at the corners and tying around the
stem snugly, fastening to the latter a string by which it may
be hung till needed. Keep fruit if possible in a cool, dry,
dark place.

BOTTLED GRAPES (Country Life in America)

French vine growers, according to Country Life in Amer-
ica, preserve grapes by leaving five or six inches of stem

112 FRUIT RECIPES

when cutting the bunches. These stems are inserted in
large-mouthed bottles of water, the grapes themselves
hanging outside, and the bottles are placed in racks in
cellars where there is a uniform low temperature.

UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE No. 1

Heat the thoroughly ripe grapes slowly—in a double-
boiler or crock—on the back of the stove or in a slow oven.
When the skins are tender strain through cheese cloth bag
without squeezing. When juice has been replaced on stove
and is at boiling point, add half as much sugar as juice
Let dissolve perfectly then seal while hot.

UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE No. 2

Wash, crush, and heat the fruit, simmering for thirty
minutes. Crush again, strain, and squeeze hard through a
bag. Replace juice on stove, let boil and skim, then add
one-fourth pint of sugar to each pint of juice, letting dis-
solve and boiling about six minutes. Fill heated bottles
and seal at once.

UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE No. 3 (Without Sugar)

Mash, boil, and press grapes. Have bottles ready ona
false wooden bottom in a large boiler. Fill bottles with
the cooled juice, pour cold water in the boiler up to the
necks of the bottles, let the whole heat, and boil for ten
minutes. As the juice may evaporate the bottles should
be filled up from one special bottle. Cork and seal while
hot.

UNFERMENTED GRAPE JUICE No. 4 (Without Sugar)
A second method of preserving the juice without sugar is

to mash the fresh grapes before heating them. Strain off
the juice, then heat to boiling point as above.

THE GRAPE 113

FRUITS PRESERVED IN GRAPE JUICE (Miss Parloa)

No sugar is needed when fruits are put up in grape juice.
Heat grape juice till reduced one-third (six quarts
reduced to four quarts), then place in it the prepared
fruit (as for other preserves). Have it well covered with
juice and slowly boil till the fruit is translucent and ten-
der, when place at once in heated jars and seal.

CANNED GRAPES

Canned grapes give excellent flavour, the juice resulting
after standing some weeks being, if properly made, like a
sweet wine. Wash and cut grapes from the bunch leaving
a bit of stem on each. Make a syrup with a quart of water
to each pound of sugar. Place the fruit in heated jars in
an outer vessel of cold water and let heat gradually. Fill
nearly full with the syrup and let cook ten minutes; add
more syrup and seal immediately. (White grapes or
seedless grapes are very delicate prepared this way or in
grape juice.)

HOME-MADE TOKAY

To each quart of grape juice add one pound Sultana
raisins, chopped. Let stand in a tub or jar two weeks,
stirring each day several times. Strain and place in cask
with loose bung for four days then stop tight for eight
months and it will be ready to bottle. If not then clear
settle it as for peach wine.

GRAPE WINE

Toagallon of grapes—wild or cultivated, and stemmed
—allow a gallon of boiled rain water. Mash the grapes and
let stand in the water a week, not straining all this time.
Then strain and allow for each gallon of liquor three pounds
of loaf sugar. Place in cask in warm spot. When fer-
mentation ceases close bung.

114 FRUIT RECIPES

CATAWBA WINE

Allow a quart of soft water to each gallon of crushed
fruit. Let it stand one week; strain, and to each gallon
allow a pound of loaf sugar. This should be fit to bottle
in a year.

RAISIN WINE

To each thirty pounds of chopped raisins, stemmed,
dried, and well looked over, allow three gallons hot water,
steeping in this a day and night. Strain and press without
bruising seeds; add an ounce of crude tartar; place in
barrel and set in a warm spot. Add two gallons additional
of hot water in which has been dissolved three pounds of
white sugar. Let ferment; cover with a blanket; place
bung in tight and let stand three months, when rack
off into a clean barrel and close tight. Fit to bottle
in a year. .

SHERRY OF RAISINS

To each quart of soft, boiled water, when cool, add a
pound of raisins chopped, letting stand four weeks, stirring
often. Strain liquor from the raisins and place it in a
sealed: jug. In a month rack it off, being careful not to
disturb the sediment. To each five gallons allow the
juice of six oranges and the rind (which should have stood
twenty-four hours in a quart of brandy). Stir in also three
pounds of loaf sugar for this quantity and mix all well,
placing in a cask and bottling in four months.

GRAPE VINEGAR

For this use wild grapes, pressing out juice, boiling down
till one-half the original quantity. To three-fourths barrel
add three gallons of molasses; put in a warm place to
ferment, after which close the bung.

THE GRAPE . II§

GRAPE CORDIAL

To every quart of unfermented juice allow a tablespoon
each of cloves, cinnamon, allspice, and one-half pint brandy,
Let boil up before adding brandy. Seal.

HOT GRAPE PUNCH

Use three sliced oranges for each quart of grape wine
and several broken sticks of cinnamon. Heat the spice
and grated rind of the oranges with the wine; strain, and
add the sliced oranges.

GRAPE CATSUP

To each five pints of grapes allow one pound of sugar,
a half pint of vinegar, and one-half ounce each of cinnamon,
cloves, and mace. Boil sugar and vinegar together fifteen
minutes. Heat the pulp and skins meantime; let cool
and rub through a colander; add this to the vinegar and
sugar, cocking twenty minutes. If too thick reduce.

GRAPE CHUTNEY

Use one quart of seeded grapes (not yet ripened, though
full-sized) and one and a half pounds of tart apples.
Place in preserving kettle with an ounce each of garlic,
grated horseradish, ginger, mustard, four of salt, one salt-
spoon of cayenne pepper, a pint of vinegar, and one cup of
stoned raisins. Simmer slowly till thick when rub smooth,
add one-half pint brown sugar, and let stand a week (in
earthenware), stirring each day. Then place in small jars
and cork, putting away in a dry, dark, cool place.

GRAPE BUTTER

Simmer the pulp of grapes (either green or ripe) till
tender; put through a colander, then add skins and cook

116 FRUIT RECIPES

till tender, when the sugar must be stirred in, allowing
one-half pound to each pound of fruit. Cook till thick
and seal.

SWEET GRAPE PICKLE

To seven pounds of grapes allow four pounds of sugar
and one quart of vinegar. Tie spices in a thin bag and cook
with the syrup. Pour the latter, when thick and boiling,
on the grapes. Remove, re-heat, and pour again over the
fruit for two successive days, then seal.

GREEN GRAPES PICKLED

Have the grapes (not yet coloured but full-size) stemmed,
washed, and drained and let stand in brine twelve hours,
when drain and rinse. Spice vinegar as for other pickles
but let it get cold before pouring over the grapes.

SPICED GRAPES

The whole grapes or the pulp alone (put through a col-
ander) may be spiced, proceeding as for spiced apples,
plums, or prunes.

WILD GRAPE JELLY No. 1 (With Crab Apple)

Wash, stem, and heat grapes, adding to them one-third
part crab apples, simmering together with barely enough
water to cover and keep from burning. Crush the fruit
gently and cook till soft and breaking—about two hours.
Strain without squeezing, letting drip over night. Measure
juice and let heat, skimming carefully. Allow one pint of

sugar for each pint of juice and proceed as for other
jellies.

WILD GRAPE JELLY No. 2 SPICED

Cornelia Bedford gives the following as vouched for
“by an old housekeeper” (Table Talk, Oct. 'os):

THE GRAPE 117

“Pick from the stems and wash sufficient wild grapes,
which are still slightly green, to measure one peck. Put
them into a preserving kettle with one quart of vinegar,
one-quarter of a cup each of finely broken stick cinnamon
and whole cloves. Heat slowly to the boiling point and
simmer until the grapes are soft. Turn into a bag made
of two thicknesses of fine cheesecloth and.let drain without
pressing. When no more will drip through put the clear
juice over the fire in a clean kettle and boil for twenty
minutes. Have six pounds of granulated sugar spread on
shallow pans and warm it without melting in the open
oven. When the juice has boiled as-directed pour in the
sugar, stir until dissolved, boil for five minutes, and pour
into glasses.”

RIPE AND GREEN GRAPE JELLIES

For the darker, sweeter jelly take ripe, dark grapes; for
lighter, tart, jelly grapes still green should be used. The
tartness and colour may be varied by using part of each.
Allow one and one-eighth pounds of sugar for each pint of
juice of ripe grapes and pound for pint of the tart.

GRAPE AND ELDERBERRY JELLY

Use half and half of green grapes and elderberries and
proceed as for the usual form of jelly-making.

GRAPE JAM

Heat grapes over boiling water till soft, then simmer
gently thirty minutes. Let cool a little and press through
colander. Weigh pulp, allowing one and one-eighth pounds
sugar for each pound of pulp. Cook together, simmering
and stirring carefully tillit thickens into jam consistency,
when place in small jars. Either ripe or green. grapes or
half and half may be used for this (The wild grapes will
not harden as well). Lemon rind may be added.

118 FRUIT RECIPES

RAISINE

This is the famous French marmalade or “butter,” using
equal weight of grapes and pears. Simmer the grapes alone
first, till soft, in just a little water, having washed, seeded,
and stemmed them. Press through colander and add the
pears, uncooked but pared, cored, and sliced. Simmer and
stir till thick when sweeten and strain and place
in jars.

BRANDIED GRAPES (White or Purple)

Remove all imperfect grapes from the bunches and
prick each one left on the bunches in two or three places.
Place a laver of powdered sugar on the bottom of the jars
to be used, then put in a bunch of grapes, alternating sugar
and grapes till jars are nearly full. Fill up remaining
space with brandy; cover jars and set away.

GRAPE FARINA

Stew clean, stemmed grapes till soft enough to put
through a sieve. Allow for each cup of this two table-
spoons of farina and proceed as for blackberry farina.

GRAPE SOUP

Allow a half pint of sugar to a pint of water and simmer
clear before adding a quart of grape juice (Press ripe grapes
through a sieve) and juice of a lemon. Have softened a
tablespoon of tapioca and simmer till clear with the. juice.
Remove and serve hot or cold; for the latter cooling and
adding shaved ice.

GRAPE SANDWICHES

Seed and slice thin, skinned, white grapes; mix with
chopped nuts and apples, binding together with French
dressing and spread’ on buttered rounds of thin-sliced
white bread.

vouodop snpdsayt
« WI{VId »»
NOWWISYdd NVdve£ NVdvf£ YO LYASOT

is e

Sege-ce a

oa

SEA OR SHORE GRAPE TREE

SEA OR SHORE GRAPES

THE GRAPE 119

SNOW GRAPES

Wash and dry carefully bunches of grapes, large or cut
into smaller clusters. Fasten a looped string to each stem.
Whisk the white of an egg partially and in this dip the
clusters then sift over them powdered sugar till they are
thickly covered. Hang by the strings over plates or lay
on platters and set on ice for several hours.

GRAPE SHERBET OR WATER ICE

Make a syrup of three-fourths pound sugar to a pint of
water. When cool add one pint of grape juice and freeze.
A tablespoon of orange or lemon juice brings out the flavour.
For the sherbet add the usual whipped eggs when half

frozen.
GRAPE ICE CREAM

This may be made with the fresh or preserved grape
juice. Prepare a simple custard or ice cream foundation
(See Introductory Recipes). Sweeten well when put on
the stove; let scald, and cool, then partly freeze before
adding the grape juice (in proportion of one pint grape
juice to one quart of ice cream or custard mixture).

RAISINS STEWED WITH APPLES
See Apples.
RAISIN-CURRANT JAM

See Currants.

SAUCE OF RAISINS AND CURRANTS

Stem and mash a quart of ripe currants and place with
them three-fourths pound of brown sugar. When these
have come to boiling point. and have been skimmed
mix in three-fourths pound of seeded raisins or the smaller

120 FRUIT RECIPES

seeded raisins. Let all cook together till raisins are
thoroughly soft, skimming well and stirring after skim-
ming. Let cool and serve as sauce or dessert.

RAISIN WINE AND SHERRY

See Grape recipes above.

RAISINS AND RICE

To three-fourths cup of rice allow one cup of raisins.
Have washed and dried the rice and place it in rapidly
boiling water (two quarts, salted) for fifteen minutes, when
it should be quite tender and flaky. Remove and drain
in colander and steam over boiling water. Have the raisins
washed and simmered till tender in just a little water.
When the rice is done mix raisins and juice with it and
serve.

RAISIN RICE PUDDING

Allow one tablespoon of rice to a quart of milk, salted.
Boil together half an hour, then place in baking-dish with
one cup of washed raisins and bake an hour, stirring fre-
quently (a little sugar may be added if liked). The
last half hour the crust should be allowed to form before
stirring in; the last time let brown lightly and remove
from oven.

ENGLISH PLUM CAKE

One pound of flour; four ownces each of drippings or
butter, Sultana raisins and currants; six ounces sugar;
two ounces candied peel of orange or lemon; two eggs;
two teaspoons baking-powder; grated rind one lemon and
a scant half pint of milk. Take an extra ounce of sugar
(use for this the lump or cube sugar) and burn it brown in
a saucepan, then pour in on it the milk; stir till it is coloured
well; strain and cool it. Rub the drippings into the flour,

THE GRAPE 121

add sugar and theeggs well beaten, the Sultanas and candied
peel, and milk. Bake nearly two hours.

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING

One pound each of bread-crumbs, flour, suet, currants,
and raisins; one-half pound each of almonds, candied
citron, and sugar; one short pint West Indian molasses
(New Orleans); one orange grated; eight eggs; one nut-
meg grated; one teaspoon each of salt, cloves, ginger, and
allspice. Prepare raisins and currants, then dredge with
flour and mix with the chopped citron and blanched al-
monds. Mix the suet with the flour, crumbs, sugar, salt,
spices, and orange peel, adding next the eggs, milk, and
fruit. Scald and dredge a large, strong pudding-cloth
and lay on it the pudding; tie well and daub the string-
hole with dough. The pudding must be placed in boiling
water and boil eight hours, but it may be boiled six or seven
hours some days before needed and finished the day it is
served.

CURRANT LOAF

To a quart of flour add a quarter pound of butter, and
a half cup of sugar, rubbing in well. Scald a pint of milk
and cool, adding a half pint of cold water. Dissolve in
this a small yeast cake or tablet and add to the flour
(making a very soft, thin dough), letting rise until light,
which will be under three hours. Add two or three beaten
eggs and a cup and a half to two cups of currants, floured,
stirring and setting to rise again in a greased cake-pan. In
two hours bake in temperate oven for about an hour.

CHAPTER XI
THE OLIVE (Olea Europea)

O STATE that the olive has from an unremembered
limit of time been the symbol of wisdom, peace,
chastity, and victory, is to concentrate volumes of pane-
gyrics. And there are truly ages of experience eloquently
suggested in the very repression of intensity of colouring
possessed by the silent, dignified, mystic-looking gray-
green trees which live on indefinitely through centuries.
Typifying the fat of those lands ‘flowing with milk and
honey’’ which across the seas stretch back into impene-
trable dimness, and its fruit literally giving it forth,
its leaves resemble rather the muscular tissues of
ancient Greek youths whose graceful bodies were not per-
mitted to accumulate unnecessary or soft flesh, for these
slim, somewhat willow-like leaves are apparently almost
devoid of sap, firm to the point of stiffness in texture.

The olive of European and Asiatic countries, now also
thoroughly a product of American-Californian soil, growing,
too, even on south walls in parts of southern England, is
known to the world through its oil, its pickled and dried
fruits. The first is often adulterated with those excellent
oils of the cottonseed and peanut (which should be allowed
to appear under their own names, however) and poppy and
other oils, but the adulteration is the more easily detected
that olive oil congeals at a higher temperature than the
other oils. It is the fleshy part of the fruit instead of the
seed which gives the oil and of this there are several grades,
the virgin oil, or best grade, being carefully pressed from

I22

,8adBig UOISSI,, SNOMes a4} Jo suO

QTHOM AHL NI ANIAddIVaD LSHOUVT
ie = aie ae “Ty

va

CALIFORNIA OLIVES

THE OLIVE 123

olives plucked before perfectly mature. Other grades are
manufactured from whole olives at otherstages or conditions,
or from the already pressed pulp thrown into boiling water,
from which the fat is skimmed, and some of the lower
grades (for Castile and other soaps, etc.) are procured by
certain processes of fermentation.

It is a matter of medical history that olive oil is nourish-
ing, fattening, laxative, and easily digested; that it is
soothing to the stomach and intestinal tract and lessens
the harmful effect. of acrid poisons or other harsh fluids.
It is one of the greatest beautifiers known, a cupful each
day building up the whole system, toning the nerves, and
making the flesh firm—the skin soft. It is a soothing
and relaxing food for the skin; in some countries is
thought (so applied) to be a preventive of the plague and in
the earlier stages of the disease to sometimes even cure it.

For culinary purposes it is in salad dressings that olive
oil gives the artistic and gastronomic effects that tend
toward health (when combined with sufficient simplicity)
and enriches the blood. (For proportion and combination
for salads see Introductory Recipes.)

The plum-like fruit of the olive when unripe and un-
pickled is not pleasing in flavour, resembling a combina-
tion of pepper, salt, and vinegar, with a peculiar acrid touch.
But pickled the olive becomes with most people a much
desired article of diet, acting as a spur to the palate as well
as being a source of nourishment and by some claimed
to assist in the digestion of other foods. (For Imitation
Olives see Index to Plums.)

Olive wood is susceptible of an unusual polish which
brings out strange, beautiful spots and streaks of
cloudy black merging into green and yellow hues. The
leaves and bark were once supposed to possess qualities
similar to those of cinchona bark and the gum also was

124 FRUIT RECIPES

thought to have health-giving elements. To-day only
certain chemical extracts (prepared chiefly in France)
call forth healing power from the leaves and in such prep-
arations are sometimes given in fevers, but the gum is
used almost entirely for perfumery where used at all, as
among the Italians.

There is a species of American olive, The Devil-wood,
(Olea Americana), which grows wild in some of the more
southern states, which has a flower attractive for its sweet
scent, and its fruit is considered fit subject for pickling.

Save the wild crab apple blossom the sweet or Fragrant
Olive (Olea fragrans or Osmanthus fragrans) of Japan and
China, has no rival in the botanical world in. delicate yet
distinctly penetrating and rarely exquisite fragrance.

CHAPTER XII
MELONS

HE national fondness for watermelons, for spicy nut-
megs, and their kind is so intense; so inseparable

seem our hot summer sun and gorgeously vivid melons,
our negro population and gastronomic bliss from national
prosperity, from each bit of soil and atmosphere American,
that we have long since forgotten that both melon and:
negro were but adopted and adapted; that they were not
as much our own originally as the Indians, as maize, cotton,
tobacco, and potatoes. But, with our combined talents
for foreign affiliation, amalgamation, and assimilation and
our intense patriotism this could not fail to be. The tinge
of the tropics which appeals to us in the multi-coloured,
formed, and flavoured succulent dainties is entirely
typical of our sunny Southern States and they also so
richly riot over our broad North-land that it is difficult
indeed to remember, even with some unusually concen-
trated whiff of musky spiciness from the smaller types of
melon, that the whole group had an Oriental origin; that
India, ‘“‘the plains of Ispahan,” ‘‘the floating islands of
Cashmere’’—all Asia—have presumably first claim. Lucul-
lus is supposed to have introduced the muskmelon and
nutmeg into Rome from Armenia, but the British Isles
made their earliest acquaintance with this group (the
smaller melons) in the sixteenth century, when taken there
from Jamaica. It is difficult to state the exact date of the
melon’s advent into America but it is now so much one
with the soil that we may be content to waive claim to its

125

126 FRUIT RECIPES

origin and merge exact dates because of present riches..

Broadly speaking, there are three classes of melons, to
the first belonging the larger, watermelons; to the second
the muskmelon, canteloupe, and nutmeg group, and to
the third the citron melons. All of them are members of
the Cucurbitacee, or Gourd Family, to which, also, the
pumpkin, squash, and cucumber belong. The watermelon,
Citrullus citrullus, is, in a sense, ‘‘a thing apart,’ being
considered a distinct genus. It is in this, with its many
varieties, that we particularly revel in America. The
Kaukoor (Citrullus utillissimus), is a favourite variety of
melon in India. It is rather a small, oval, and yellow-
meated melon of which both the flesh and seeds are prized:
the former pickled or used in curries, or uncooked. The
oily seeds, when round, form a farinaceous meal; the oil,
extracted, is used for lamp oil; the seeds are also used
medicinally. In Egypt and Arabia the favourite melon is
the Chate (Citrullus chate) which much resembles the
American watermelon.

Our gtandmothers made good use of all three of the
types known to the United States. The citron melon was
especially esteemed for rich conserves. On the other hand
it made the simplest of sauces. The canteloupe group was
highly regarded as a basis for pickles and marmalades, and
the watermelon as conserves or medicine. This last melon
is particularly refreshing, arriving as it does with the
greatest heat of the year. Unripe, like the muskmelon,
(Cucumis melo) it is apt to produce unpleasant, colicky
symptoms, but thoroughly ripe furnishes safety to the
system with the carrying away of any feverish tendency.
Among many foreign peoples, as formerly in our own
country, the fresh simple juice is considered excellent for
the liver, kidneys, and bladder, and the seeds, like those of
the pumpkin and cucumber, “bruised and rubbed up with

MELONS 127

water to form an emulsion,” are given for catarrhal dis-
orders. The Dispensatory of the United States (Wood
and Bache) to-day recognises in its list of ‘‘unofficial”’
remedies, the refreshing and purifying qualities of water-
melon seeds and states that an “infusion of two ounces,
bruised, to a pint of water, may be taken ad libitum.”
The freshly expressed, simple juice and a preparation called
‘“‘watermelon honey,’’ or ‘‘Arbooznyimiod,” are in high
repute among the peasants of Russia and used in dropsy,
chronic congestion of the liver, and intestinal catarrh.

The watermelon, though more bulky, and having one-
tenth per cent. of fat where it is reckoned the muskmelon
has none, has less of the richness of the fruit sugars, less ash,
protein, and heat producing or energy value and in its very
lack of actual food elements is one of the simplest, most
wholesome of nature’s purifiers.

(See tables appended for figures regarding food value of

melons.)

RECIPES

TO SERVE CANTELOUPES SIMPLY

Canteloupes should be placed on ice and thoroughly
chilled, then cut in half and the seeds removed, being care-
ful not to scrape out the delicate pulp nearest the seeds as
this is the most spicy portion of the fruit. Place the
halves on plates of cracked ice, reversing the usual order
of serving ice in the hollow of the melon, as by this latter
method the flavour is drawn out instead of preserved with-
in the pulp.

TO SERVE WATERMELON SIMPLY (Three Ways)

1. Have the melon thoroughly iced, then slice across
about an inch thick, remove the rind and cut the solid red

128 FRUIT RECIPES

pulp into cubes, diamonds, hearts, or other shapes as de-
sired. Place in salad bowl or individual dishes, dust with
fine sugar, and serve at once.

2. Cut in inch slices across ; remove rind and serve
the heart (each large slice) of the red pulp in round or
oval form; sprinkle with sugar. If cut into small rounds
or ovals (inch length) sprinkle with maraschino and serve
as cherries or plums.

3. If the melon is preferably to be placed upon
the table whole it should be held lengthwise to-
ward one; the knife inserted near the top and
cut diagonally downward (instead of straight down-
ward) toward the other end, leaving four or five inches
asa base. Three inches to the left of the point where the
knife was first inserted cut again, this time diagonally
toward the far end of the first line of cut, thus making a
pointed tongue. Continue to cut up and down in this
manner until the melon is completely cut around, when
two equal sets of points will result, and these jagged halves
of the melon can easily be pulled apart. (The melon may
be plugged or halved twelve hours before serving, filled
with wine and let ‘“‘ripen’’.)

NUTMEG BASKETS

Tie a string around the melons that the halves may be
plainly marked to the eye, then from one end cut a strip
(both ways) an inch wide and reaching to the string. Re-
move the side sections and from the baskets thus formed
take seeds and ‘‘threads.”” Also cut the sweet pulp care-
fully so that it will be in dainty bits. Set the baskets and
pulp, separately, on ice, and when ready to serve them fill
the hollows with the pulp, and sprinkle with sugar, salt,
or lemon juice as desired. Or, first treat with wine, as
above, or use the Turkish flavouring on the cut cubes: two

MELONS 129

tablespoons of brandy, one of ginger, and pinch of salt
and pepper.
MELON ROLL

Whip stiff one pint double cream. See that it is quite
dry before adding a half pint of melon pulp (mashed) and
one-half cup of sugar. Freeze, and when stiff line a long,
rounding mould with it. Fill in the centre with chopped
melon flavoured with a little spice, wine, lemon, or other
fruit flavouring. Place cover on securely, sealing with
wax or butter, and pack it in salt and ice for several hours.
When ready to serve it remove the frozen roll with a hot
knife; slice across in inch slices and serve the circlets thus
made.

1 MELON ICE RINGS

The small round melons (previously placed on ice) must
be cut across in circles, the seeds catefully removed and the
hollows filled with whipped cream or fruit ice just before
serving.

MELON SURPRISE

Cut a slice across the top of the smaller melons to serve
individually, or the larger ones as liked, so that this slice
will form a lid. Scoop out the inside of the melons and fill
with nutmeg or canteloupe ice, with wine, or any ice cream
or whipped-cream mixture. Ifthe shells are iced some time
before and when filled set at once on ice, they may stand
thus for some hours (lid replaced). A ribbon may be
tied around the whole or knotted at the top.

WATERMELON HALF FROZEN

Break the ripe pulp of the melon into fine bits with a
silver fork and place it in freezer without dasher. Let
stand two hours packed in salt and ice and serve in sherbet
glasses or the half shell of the melon chilled and garnished
at base with vines.

130 FRUIT RECIPES

WATERMELON SHERBET

Scrape all the red pulp of the melon, carefully saving
the juice and having sufficient melon to give strength of
flavour. Allow to one gallon of liquid 4 pound of sugar
and freeze. (This may be varied by adding lemon flavour-
ing and juice, or sherry.) When half frozen add the whip-
ped whites of eggs (one for each quart of the mixture) and
finish the freezing.

CANTELOUPE ICE

To one quart of melon pulp allow a pound of sugar and
a pint of water. Make a syrup of the sugar and water,
simmering five minutes. When cold add to the melon
pulp and freeze.

NUTMEG COMPOTE

Make a syrup as above and while it is still hot lay in it
cubes or strips’ of melon, simmering five or six minutes,
then placing in serving-dish. Cook the syrup down till thick,
add any flavouring desired and pour over the melon. Heap
whipped cream on this and serve.

NUTMEG TART

Nutmeg or canteloupe prepared as above may be made
into a tempting tart by lining a baking-dish with a delicate
paste, baking, and then filling it with above mixture.
Make a meringue with the whipped whites of two eggs and
cup of sugar; place over melon, brown quickly in oven, and
serve hot or cold.

MELON MOUSSE
Place the pulp of nutmeg, canteloupe, or muskmelon in

preserving kettle with half the quantity of sugar. Stew
down till rather thick; rub through sieve and replace on

MELONS 131

stove. Have dissolved a half box of gelatine (for each pint
of pulp) first softened in a little cold water, then more
thoroughly dissolved by pouring on it a half-pint of boiling
water and placing over steam. Add this to the cooked
melon, stirring until it begins to cool and thicken, when
place in wetted moulds; set on ice till firm and serve with
cream. (Less gelatine may be used if preferred.)

MELON MARMALADE (Old-fashioned Recipe)

Take large citron melons, quarter, and remove seeds.
Weigh, and to every pound of melon allow a pound of loaf
sugar (double refined). To every three pounds of melons
allow two lemons and a teespoonful of ground white ginger..
Grate the melon on coarse grater, not too close to rind.
Grate off also the yellow rind of the lemons and add with
the ginger to the sugar. Mix all the ingredients in a pre-
serving kettle. Set it over a moderate fire, boil, skim, and
stir until it is a very thick, smooth jam. Put it warm into
glasses; lay a double round of tissue paper on the surface
and seal the jars.

SMALL MELON PICKLES (Old Recipe)

Select muskmelons the size of black walnuts; prick well
and place for three days in brine, when freshen and pour
over them hot spiced vinegar.

RIPE MUSKMELON PICKLES (Mrs. Haskell)

With all melon pickles use about one teaspoon alum to
harden four pounds of melon. Take hard muskmelons
‘after they are sufficiently ripe to develop flavour, and
slice lengthwise; scrape out seeds and lay melon in salt
over night. Wash and wipe dry, then put in alum water
one hour; wash and wipe dry again, cut in slices, and pack
in glass jars. Pour over them a syrup of vinegar with

132 FRUIT RECIPES

spices, and set in a boiler of cold water. Heat gradually
to boiling; remove the bottles and cork as soon as cold.
The melons may be peeled or cut in rings if preferred.

SPICED MELONS

Quarter, peel, and cut into preferred size the pieces of
melon. When weighed place in earthen jar; pour over
them cold vinegar and let stand over night. Then drain
.and for every seven pounds of melons make a syrup of
three pounds of sugar, a teaspoon each of allspice and
-cloves, a little grated nutmeg, and a few bits of stick cin-
namon. Boil several minutes after commencing to sim-
mer. Pour this over the melons; cover them and let
stand over night. Repeat this twice, the last time sim-
mering until melon is tender and translucent, though firm.
Place in heated jars and pour the spiced syrup over them,
then seal.

MELON MANGOES

Take small green muskmelons; place in earthen or wooden
receptacles and pour over them hot brine in which a little
alum has been dissolved. Repeat twice and let stand in
brine six days after scalding last time, when place in
kettle; scald and let stand over night. Repeat this at in-
tervals of several hours three times, letting stand last time
twenty-four hours. Remove one section of the melon and
scoop out the inside. Wash and soak twelve hours in acidu-
lated water. Make a stuffing of onions, cucumbers, to-
matoes, beans, horseradish, etc. Drain the melons.
Place first in them a few cloves, cinnamon, ginger, white
mustard seed and horseradish, then the filling. Replace
and sew on the removed section; place melons in large
receptacle, cut side up, and pour over them spiced vinegar
(Place weights on them), letting stand six days. Drain and
cover with unspiced vinegar for indefinite keeping.

MELONS 133

PRESERVED CITRON MELON

To five pounds citron melon take three pounds sugar,
nine lemons, two ounces green ginger root, and one tea-
spoon powdered alum. Peel melon and cut into rather
thin slices, boiling until clear and tender in water containing
the alum. Drain and wash in cold water. Have ready
a syrup prepared by cooking together the sugar and juice
of eight of the lemons, adding grated rinds of three and
the ginger root, and cooking until clear and rather thick.
Place in it the citron melon with one sliced lemon; place
the melon in heated jars; pour into them the boiling
syrup and seal while hot.

CANDIED CITRON MELON

Follow the recipe given just above but slicing thicker,
and when the melon has been removed from the syrup drain
and place the cubes or strips in a heater or fruit-dryer or
in the sun. When dry, after twenty-four hours dip again
in the re-heated syrup and dry. This process must be
repeated until the melon is sufficiently candied to keep
by packing away in layers of oiled paper. On the care
and length of process depends the success of the results.

WATERMELON PICKLES

Pare off the green part of the rind; cut the white part into
strips of desired size and cover with boiling water in which
alum has been dissolved. Let stand over night in this, then
soak several hours in fresh cold rain water. Place in pre-
serving kettle and cook in fresh hot water till tender. Have
ready a syrup made of equal parts of vinegar and sugar.
Cook in this a stick of cinnamon, several sliced lemons,
(without seeds) and a little ginger-root. When thick and
well flavoured place the drained melon in this and cook

S

134 FRUIT RECIPES

till it is clear. Take out the melon; place in jars; boil
down the syrup till thick; pour over the rinds and
seal. :
WATERMELON HONEY
Use the red portion only. Crush and strain it or cook
down (with seeds) till very soft and then strain, cooking
again till thick. (Three quarts of red pulp will make but
about one-fifth pint of ‘‘honey.’’) This requires time and
patience. Cool the honey, then proceed as with grape juice
in bottling. It is best without sugar but a little sugar and
lemon juice may be added, the “honey”’ alone not keeping
so well.
WATERMELON CATSUP
Use the red and a little of the white portions, cooking
down pulp and seeds till soft, when press through a
colander and add spice, etc., as for grape catsup.

CITRON OR PIE-MELON SAUCE

Cut and pare the melon; place in double boiler with
no water or barely sufficient to wet the bottom layer of
pieces, and cook till soft. Add sugar and lemon juice
or other flavouring. This approaches apple sauce in flavour
and consistency. To vary the flavour add, instead of
lemon, or with it, barberry, cranberry, currant, or rasp-
berry syrup, when the melon begins to soften.

PIE-MELON TART

Make as for apple tarts, using the sauce made as above.

MELONS AS VEGETABLES

The half ripe melons of the canteloupe group may be
used as are cucumbers and egg-plant for frying in egg and
crumbs or in batter, or for scalloping, stuffing, and
baking.

MELONS 135

MELONS CURRIED

Use for curries, also, the half ripe melons. Peel and
cut in small cubes or slices nearly an inch thick and fry
carefully in a little butter. Prepare the curry in another
saucepan, frying an onion (sliced) in a tablespoon of butter
until a golden brown. Add to this the fried melon;
sprinkle over it a teaspoonful of curry powder (or quantity
preferred) and let cook up, covered. A little water or
milk may be added if necessary.

MELONS FOR SALADS

The fully ripe fruit is delicious for salads, cut in cubes
and served alone or with other fruits, as tomatoes or
peaches or bananas. Serve with mayonnaise plain or
flavoured with some liqueur or French dressing to which has
been added a suspicion of Maraschino, or serve with whipped
cream. (See Salads in Introductory Recipes.)

CITRON MELON IN JELLY

There is an unusual quantity of pectin in the citron
melon which makes it of practical value in jelly making.
Where fruit does not readily jell the addition of citron melon
(proportion varying with fruit used, half and half; one-
third, etc.), will make this end far more quickly at-
tainable.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

The melons of the nutmeg group stand half way between
the vegetable marrow so valued by Europeans, (near
which must be placed the squash and pumpkin), and the
luscious sweetened melons which are classed with fruits,
so that they may be used far more generally than usually
supposed in sweetened croquettes, as for apples, and with
cheese or nuts or eggs, as with vegetables, all of these, of
course, giving meat value.

CHAPTER XIII

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES

HE little fruits classed scientifically or popularly as
“berries” form a most exquisite group, beautiful
in variety of form and colouring, delightful in rich fragrance
or bouquet and in delicacy of flavour, appealing to and
stimulating the appetite through every esthetic sense;
cooling, in refreshing the whole system; subtly satisfying
the intellectual and physical natures alike. The chief
members of the group, whether wild or cultivated, are the
strawberry, blackberry, and raspberry (with subdivisions) ;
the huckle- or blue- or whortleberry; the mulberry,
cranberry, gooseberry, and currant; the elderberry and
barberry.
THE STRAWBERRY

The strawberry, or Fragaria ( Nat. Ord. Rosacee), while
in its wild state not perhaps so lavishly generous with its
riches as is the blackberry over both southern and north-
ern latitudes, yet, speaking broadly, grows from the Arctic
to the Antarctic zones; the mountains of Switzerland and
even the Himalayas not too high or chill but that it may
be found nestling close to Mother Earth, giving out
beauty and charm in unexpected spots. It was, undoubt-
edly, this shy, rich sweetness—so free from tearing thorns—
which stamped from the first with indelible favouritism
the wild crimson berry, and its being found so amenable to
cultivation, (therefore making its season long, from the
width of belt from which it may be shipped,) gave it con-
tinued first rank in favour.

136

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 137

Its generic name of Fragaria was given it by the old
Romans because of its inviting perfume. Its second
baptismal name of ‘‘ straw,” by which we of to-day designate
it, had also ancient origin of which, however, two ex-
planations are given, one tradition asserting that it came
from the Anglo-Saxon “‘strae,”’ meaning to stray (because
of the vine’s wandering habits), and from which we derive
directly our English verb ‘‘stray.’’ But the name is
also said to have come from the old English custom of placing
straw under the plants to mulch or to prevent the fruit
from rotting.

It is not everyone who can eat strawberries, unfortunately,
as their decided and peculiar form of acids does not agree
with everyone, but these people are exceptions and should
know that the addition of a little Cayenne pepper will not
unpleasantly detract from the fruit and will very often
prevent difficulties in the digesting of them. They con-
tain such proportion of citric and malic acids and salts of
lime that in general they are considered excellent for those
of gouty or bilious temperament and even when acids are
supposedly contra-indicated they prove acceptable to the
system if taken with a small quantity of bicarbonate of
potash (see Note 1: Preface). Holbrook states that
the use of this berry cured Wilson, the ornithologist, of
chronic malarial fever after the doctors had failed. An-
other celebrated cure, handed down among strawberry
devotees, was that of the botanist Linnzus from gout, and
patients of lesser note have been entirely relieved of liver
troubles and maladies associated with the respiratory
organs, particularly the lungs. One Swiss physician re-
ported as restricting patients with serious pulmonary
diseases to an almost exclusive diet of strawberries.

Wild strawberries are more readily digestible than al-
most any berry known and the red drops, like heart’s

138 FRUIT RECIPES

blood, seem to be congealed sunshine with all tne therapeutic
value of the sun concentrated in them. It seems a pity that
they are comparatively rare and not usually to be bought
in open market, although if they were to be had at every
corner grocery most of their healing agency would have
departed. Only by gathering them in their native haunts
may all this value be given and received.

THE BLACKBERRY

If the strawberry, with its combined tartness, sweetness,
brilliance yet shyness of beauty may be regarded as a
feminine type the blackberry may as truly be said to possess
masculine characteristics. The blackberry vine’s vigour,
its happy-go-lucky, sturdy habit of growth, its wandering
prodigality, its riotous, rollicking insistence of right-to-be,
and thorny defence against aggression are marked traits
(modified, of course, by training) of the ‘‘eternal boy.”’
The blackberry and strawberry might well be considered
brother and sister since both belong to the Rose Family.
The blackberry (Rubus) shows in its generic and ‘‘nick”’
names similar Roman and Anglo-Saxon associations, Rubus
being connected with the Latin ruber (red), and ‘‘ black-
berry’’ derived from the Anglo-Saxon blackberige and Old
English Blackberye. ‘‘Bramble,’’ applied to both black
and raspberries, takes its meaning from the Anglo-Saxon
brembel, or brember, that which tears or lacerates.

The blackberry is rather unusual among fruits as being
astringent instead of laxative; fruit, young leaves, and roots
all partaking of this quality. It is said to contain iron and
from its general tonic composition effectually tones up
the system. The Greeks made from the pressed young
shoots of the plant a thick syrup to be given internally
for throat, mouth, and eye troubles, but more commonly
the berries and roots have been used for various specifics,

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 139

particularly the roots for troubles related to dysentery.
The sugar of the berries makes them more palatable and
nourishing and the mild acids are cooling to the blood.
Blackberry cordial is an excellent remedy for diarrhoea
and blackberry wine is tonic in effect while the jams and
syrups made from the berry are very pleasing forms of
throat remedies. The decoction from the roots is pre-
pared by ‘boiling down an ounce of the smaller roots, or of
the bark of the larger, in a pint and a half of water, down
to a pint; of which from one to two fluid-ounces may be
given to an adult three or four times, or more frequently
during the twenty-four hours.” (Wood & Bache: U. S.
Dispensatory.)

The Dewberry is but a variety, with sub-varieties, of
blackberry, the coating of which is considered to
resemble dew.

THE RASPBERRY

The Raspberry is very nearly related to the blackberry,
a similar variety of the genus Rubus, having, again, sub-
varieties in black and red raspberries and the wild cloud-
berry and thimbleberry (the latter black in colour.) The
fragrance and flavour of the red raspberry are rarely
aromatic and delicate, but its seeds and coat are harsher
than those of the blackberry. From this inherent rough-
ness came its name: from the English ‘‘rasp.”” It is placed
with the strawberry as to value in liver and gouty troubles.
Syrup of Raspberries in various forms is considered very
refreshing and purifying and, the seeds being removed in
these preparations, the fruit is perhaps more wholesome
than in other forms as well as being quite as attractive.

LOGANBERRY

The Loganberry is a cross between the black- and rasp-
berry, one of the famous California hybrids. (Seed of

140 FRUIT RECIPES

the Aughinbaugh blackberry and pollen of Antwerp
Raspberry.) As yet it has not been found to ship well
and in the East does not flourish as in California, where
the fresh berries are much liked but are perhaps improved
with cookery.

THE HUCKLEBERRY—CRANBERRY GROUP

The huckleberry or whortleberry, the blueberry, bil-
berry, or blaeberry, and cranberry are related, comprising
in reality different groups of the Ericacee, or Heath family,
though there is a vast difference between the mild, dark-
hued, blue-coated berries and the crimson, acid variety
of whortleberry and cranberry. The latest classification
of these (F. V. Colville) is as follows: huckleberry: Gay-
lussacia; blueberry: Vaccinium; cranberry: Oxycoccus;
farkleberry: Batodendron; deerberry: Polycodium. The
whortleberries and huckle- or blueberries (‘‘beyond New
England commonly called huckleberries’’—Gray) make
excellent jellies and jams, may be dried and preserved
otherwise, and in some parts of Europe a spirituous
liquor is manufactured from them. A goodly per cent. of
citric acid is contained in some varieties of whortleberries.

The cranberry, with its decided acids, has marked and
valuable characteristics. It contains a large per cent.
of citric acid and iron as well; is therefore strongly tonic
and purifying and particularly grateful on long voyages or
in the winter season when other berries are difficult or
impossible to procure in fresh condition. From the
Arctic’s southern limits cranberries reach southward,
instinctively being used in these colder regions as an anti-
scorbutic. In Great Britain they form part of ship-stores
for the same purpose. They are also excellent used ex-
ternally, as poultices, in reducing inflammation. In Siberia
and Russia wine is made from them and in Scandinavian

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 141i

countries the peasants make both a business and a pleasure
of gathering cranberries in the nightless days of their
summer season, drying them (generally on endless strings)
against the darker, colder season to come. They may also
be preserved in clear water in jars or bottles, uncooked,
and cooked of course variously.

THE MULBERRY (Moraceae)

This berry is seldom appreciated, almost never ranked
according to its true value as a fruit, possibly from its
very convenience of accessibility and manipulation.
Had it thorns it might be better loved. It was long ago
taken from Persia to Italy and in Europe as well as Asia
it has always been highly esteemed for its leaves as food
for silk-worms and its wood for posts. For silk-worms
the Moris alba (white mulberry) is chiefly known, though
the black mulberry is also valued for the purpose.
The black (Moris nigra) and the red (Moris rubra) mul-
berries are sources of food and drink not to be despised;
for these purposes, indeed, the white mulberry is not to be
mentioned beside them. The smaller black or red mulberry,
though not so acceptable just from the tree, makes, like
the large, black, luscious French mulberry (which is so
delicious uncooked), most desirable jelly, preserves, and
drinks. It is one of the most wholesome of berries, con-
taining much potash—therefore recommended for throat
troubles as well as for internal complaints—and is one of
the richest, purest, most concentrated sugar manufactories
among fruits, in quantity of grape sugar outranked only
by the grape and cherry, the grape having from 10.6 to 19;
the cherrry 10.79; mulberry 9.19. (U. 8. Dispensatory).
The mulberry is laxative, its juice grateful in fevers when
strained from the seeds, and its tartaric acid refreshing in
health.

142 FRUIT RECIPES

THE ELDERBERRY

The elderberry is one of the richest of the whole collection
of berries in legendary lore, in mystical and practical
charm, each part, from roots to flowers, giving out some-
thing of value as food or medicine, being possessed of
indisputable medical properties, of remarkable qualities
for flavouring or colouring, and as a food—in jelly, jams,
etc., or wine, having unique elements of excellence.

The elder, or Sambucus, belongs to the Natural Order
Caprijoliacee, or Honeysuckle Family, and its name,
Sambucus, seems a fit one throughout the centuries, since.
it was taken from the old Greek name for one of the ancient
musical instruments and it has been much used in Scot-
land and England for the manufacture of certain music-
giving instruments, while boys all over the world know
its inestimable value for whistles, and for pop-guns, or
‘‘pipes.”’ Tradition says that it was once a tree but
cursed and dwarfed by the hanging of Judas upon it.
Other tradition goes further in claiming it as that of
which the Cross was made, and even the mistletoe cannot
lay greater claim to these storied reasons for being
stunted.

The Sambucus ebulus, or Dwarf Elderberry, rather rare
in the British Isles and almost unknown in America,
possesses strong characteristics which make it desirable
to avoid save under medical direction. In America the
red-berried elder (Sambucus pubens) grows only in
rocky woods of the more northern portions, but the black
elderberry commonly known (S. Canadensis), with its
striking, graceful clusters of flowers or fruit, is quite cos-
mopolitan (though, like the red-berried elder, masquerading
under various nicknames, as ‘‘bourtree’’), the black varieties
being virtually the same.

However unbelievable may be the many traditions and

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 143

charms connected with or said to be worked by the elder,
one may approach understanding of the origin of these
beliefs when even in these ‘‘enlightened”’ days it is claimed
in Scotland and England that the leaves give out so strong
and narcotic an odour or power that it is unsafe to sleep in
their shade, and when, in America, the apparently innocent
young leaf-buds are declared too much of a risk to put into
the mouth. Possessed of such elements of possible dan-
ger, it might readily have once been considered its powers
of evil were available for charms. The United States
Dispensatory remarks (in list of Unofficial Remedies):
“The juice of the berries has been used as an alterative
in rheumatism, also asa laxative. The inner bark is in large
doses emetic. It has been employed in dropsy, epilepsy,
and various chronic diseases. The leaves are not without
activity and the young leaf-buds are said to be ‘‘a violent
and even unsafe purgative.’”’ The juice, also, of the root
has been used in dropsy. There is so great an abundance
of citric acid in the scarlet-fruited elder (Sambucus race-
mosa rubra), native of the south of Europe and Siberia,
that M. Thibier Thibierge of Versailles proposed its use
as a source of the commercial supply. Wine is made from
both the flowers and berries (of the common black elder),
the former rarely delicate, declared similar in bouquet and
flavour to Frontignac. The juice of the berry is used to
colour and adulterate other wines, and the berries supposed
to improve ale, currant wine and jellies by their addi-
tion. Formerly they were made up into vinegars and
sauces for meats; the flowers into ointment and elder-
flower water (the latter still used in perfumes and medicinal
decoctions); the tiniest blooms stripped and separated
to mix in with and lighten pancakes or muffins, and in
France, as packing or filling for certain delicate apples,
they still flavour richly and spicily and beautify a

144 FRUIT RECIPES

matter-of-fact present. The clustered, unopened buds of
the flowers, and sometimes the unripe berries, were in
olden days pickled to serve in the fashion of capers and a
syrup or ‘‘rob’’ of the berries was considered excellent
as a laxative, diuretic and cough medicine for children.
Cooked, the young shoots seem to have none of the purga-
tive qualities of the immature leaf-buds and the fruit un-
cooked is eaten in quantity with relish by Indians of west-
ern America although to whites its peculiar flavour makes
it seem lacking until cooked with some form of spice or
the acid of other fruit,

CURRANTS AND GOOSEBERRIES

The dried currants of commerce, so favourite an in-
gredient in cakes, puddings, and other dishes, are not re-
lated to the garden currant (although once in a while the
latter is also dried for domestic purposes), being in reality
a kind of raisin or grape (Passule minores) raised and dried
in the Levant and exported from there in large quantities,
as Corinthian raisins or Zante currants (see Currants
under Grapes). Currants proper belong to the genus
Ribes, of the Grossulariacee, these being the spine-
less, twin-relative of the spiny gooseberry. Ribes is sup-
posed to be an Arabic name and, as a matter of fact, the cur-
rant grows wild in Asia, Europe, and parts of America.
The name “currant” is, in Australia, applied to other
(native) berries of that continent as well as to the culti-
vated, garden currants introduced from England.

There are red, white, black, and yellow garden currants,
variously valued, the red considered best for most wines,
shrubs or vinegars, and tart jellies; the white for simple
dessert fruit, uncooked, and the black for medicinal de-
coctions, although the black currant is also much used in
preserves, vinegars, etc., and in France a certain liqueur,

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 145

Liqueur de Cassis, is manufactured from it. All currants,
like ‘‘red gooseberries,’’ contain citric acid and there is a
particular tonic quality in the black currant which is con-
sidered excellent for the kidneys and bladder, for promoting
perspiration, and for inflamed throats. Currants and
raspberries, combined, have become famous in several forms
and the red currant is a great addition to various fruit
jellies.

The gooseberry, Ribes grossularia, is especially famed
and loved as an English garden fruit. Varieties of goose-
berries wild are to be found in parts of Europe, Asia, and
America, certain species growing in Japan, Siberia, India,
and Canada, where they are made use of. Notwithstand-
ing the general growth of the gooseberry over this wide
expanse of territory, it seems not to have become known
as a cultivated fruit until comparatively recent times;
nothing definite being known regarding it until about two
hundred years ago when attention began to be paid to it
in Lancashire. Its name indicates an earlier French
“residence”? or transition period and claim upon French
interest since ‘‘gooseberry’’ is supposed to be a corruption
of the French “‘ grosezile,’’ from which is derived the Scotch
‘“‘srozart,”’ or “‘grozet.”” In some places in England it
is known as ‘“‘feaberry.’’ Pies and tarts made from it have
become famous in rhyme and the annals of English domestic
life would not be complete without frequent mention of
the gooseberry, most delicious in its perfection. - English
it essentially now is, having attained its fullest beauty
and richness in England and being comparatively little
known in its most luscious form elsewhere, unless we ex-
cept France. Gooseberry wine vies with champagne. In
various preserves and vinegars it is excellent and it may be
kept for a long time in the fresh state sealed in heated
bottles.

146 FRUIT RECIPES

THE BARBERRY

The beautiful Barberry (Nat. Ord. Berberidacee),
with its brilliant red clusters of minute, juicy ovals
of pulp, is known all over the world in temperate and colder
climates except in Australia—either as the common Bar-
berry or the Ash-leaved Berry, the latter, however, being
insipid or unpleasant in flavour. The former, Berberis
vulgaris, is not only extremely ornamental but its tartness
is of decided value and so recognised, scientifically, in
France, where malic acid is manufactured from the berries.
A certain, smaller per cent. of citric acid is associated with
the malic acid but the latter is its chief source of acidity
and value.

These loose bunches of little oval berries are generally
too acid and astringent to be pleasing as food in their
natural condition of ripeness (admitting exceptions), but
cooked, a syrup, preserves, jelly, and jam of fine flavour
and colour are made from them, and in tarts they rival
the cranberry. Also, some varieties are susceptible of
being dried in the sun and kept indefinitely for future use,
The bark and the root are used in tropical countries for
tanning and dyeing yellow. Their juice is refrigerant and
anti-scorbutic and they are used in fevers for their cooling
effect and in diarrhceas a preparation of them is fre-
quently prescribed by some physicians because of the malic
acid which so effectively kills germs of this type. In
larger doses they are cathartic; in small ones tonic and
laxative.

THE MAY APPLE

Another member of the Berberidacee is the American
May Apple (Podophyllum peltatum), sometimes called
mandrake but not related to the mandrake proper (Man-
dragora officinarum, Nat. Ord. Solanacee, or the Night-

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 147

shade Family) or the mandrake of the ancients, and the
May Apple is the only species of the genus. It is also
poisonous by report, so far as the plant itself is concerned,
but the root is used medicinally, though too violent in nature
to be safe except under medical direction. The fruit is
not poisonous, however, and’ ‘‘may be eaten freely with
impunity ’’ (Wood and Bache). It deserves to be ex-
perimented with further, its flavour being delicious for
marmalades.
THE CHECKERBERRY

The names: Checkerberry, Boxberry, Partridge Berry,
or Wintergreen, are familiarly applied to two different
berries, one the Gaultheria, of the Heath Family, the other
the Mitchella repens, or Winter Clover, of the Madder
Family. It is the former from which is distilled the oil of
wintergreen and whose berries are so enticingly gay and
spicy. The flowers of the Mitchella are pretty and scented
but the berries, though edible and keeping all through
the winter, become dry and tasteless. They possess
medicinal virtues in being tonic and soothing and have
been used in dropsy and other troubles.

THE WINTER CHERRY

The Winter Cherry, or Physalis, although of the Night-
shade Family (Solanacee) is one of most picturesque of
real food berries, a sweet, succulent morsel of yellow, green,
purple, or red, hiding away in a dainty green or yellow nest,
unsuspected by those unfamiliar with it. This Ground or
Winter Cherry is a friendly little thing, muking open over-
tures to cultivation, running wild by inherited habit but often
entering gardens of its own accord and remaining, when
encouraged,.as a permanent resident. There are numerous
species, among them the Alkekengi, or “Strawberry To-
mato,” or ‘‘Love Apple,’’ and the ‘‘ Peruvian Gooseberry,”

148 FRUIT RECIPES

or Physalis pubescens, and they are known, wild or culti-
vated, all over the world, from the tropics of America and
Asia northward, sometimes found in Scotland and other
damp, cold latitudes. The Winter Cherry is excellent
either in natural condition or ‘“‘put up,’’ and may be
cooked by any method of which the general berry group
is susceptible—with most satisfactory results to the palate.
Also, this little ‘‘ Winter Cherry’’ is ‘‘good for the health,”
being as cooling as its name. It acts wholesomely upon
the kidneys and has been valued medicinally in other ways,
as for gout and fevers.

HACKBERRY AND HAWS

The Nettle Tree, the Celtis, of the Nat. Ord. Ulmacee,
(related to the elms) should be mentioned in the group of
berries as its fruit, known in America as the Hackberry
and Sugarberry, is edible and of most pleasing sweetness
and aromatic flavour. It is at its best, like the persimmon,
after frost.

The Hawthorn or Crategus (of the Malacee)—known
in varying forms over the world: as the White Thorn or
English “May,” the Blackthorn, the Yellow or Summer
Thorn—the Scarlet Haw; with yellow, orange, purple, or
red fruit—is more useful than is generally known. The
fruit varies in size and flavour, but there are a number of
the haws which make a pleasing breakfast or dessert-
fruit, being used this way in the south of Europe and the
Levant, and also in the manufacture of hawthorn liquor,
an intoxicant, and as the basis of cookery concoctions, as
tarts, proving their delicious possibilities. (The Viburnum
pruntjolium, of the Honeysuckle Family, related distantly
to the elderberry, is sometimes called the black haw or
sloe or stag-bush, though the two latter terms belong more

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 149

properly to the Prunus spinosa. It has not the pleasing
qualities of the hawthorn “haws.” The Viburnum, how-
ever, is considered very valuable medicinally, being a
nervine and tonic.)

THE SERVICE BERRY (Malacee)

The Service or “Sarvice”’ Berry, is of interest in a peculiar
way to Americans, in connection with the Mormons, who
have for it a real affection since in their earlier days, when
hardships and privations were continual, the Service Berry
provided sometimes their entire food. Even when this ex-
treme condition did not prevail the Service Berry constitu-
ted a solid food value which Utah will not forget. The New
International Dictionary gives perhaps the best and most
concise description of what otherwise might be a confusing
matter, so connected are various forms of the Service Berry
or Service Tree. ‘Service Berry: A name given to
several trees and shrubs of the genus Pyrus, as Pyrus
domestica, and Pyrus torminalis, the various species of
mountain ash or rowan tree, and the American Shad-bush.
They have clusters of small, edible, apple-like berries. In
British America the name is especially applied to that of
several species of the shad-bush.” ‘“‘Shad-Bush: (Bot.)
A name given to the North American shrubs or small
trees of the rosaceous genus Amelanchier (A. Canadensis ,
and A. Alnifolia). Their white racemose blossoms open
in April or May when the shad appear and the edible ber-
ries (pomes) ripen in June or July, whence they are called
June Berries. The Plant is also called Service tree and
June Berry.”’ Thus the connection is shown between
the foreign Service Tree (of which the Sorb is a variety),
the American Mountain Ash, Shad Bush, and Service
Berries, and the romantic Scotch Rowan. The spotted
fruit of the Sorb is improved by keeping, and in a mellowed

150 FRUIT RECIPES

state is regularly shipped to the London market from
English country towns. This mature stage or over-ripeness
is also necessary for the best flavour of the true Service
Tree fruit (known as Service or June Berries in Savoy).
A drink similar to cider is made from these berries and when
the latter are dried and powdered they are valued as an
astringent, used in curing diarrhcea. The Mountain Ash
contains a large quantity of malic acid, of which fact chem-
ists often take advantage in the manufacture of the com-
mercial form. The berries are available for food, as are
those of the rowan, which are used in tarts, (and every other
dish adapted to acid berries), in Scotland and in Europe.

The Buffalo Berry (Sheperdia argenta) is a fruit par-
ticularly known in the West, used commonly as food. The
‘ names indicate something of its wild associations, and
originated in the custom of serving it as a sauce with buffalo
meat. Like the barberry it is tart and is used in much the
same manner.

RECIPES

STRAWBERRIES SERVED WHOLE, UNCOOKED

These berries may be served unhulled, to be dipped in
sugar and eaten with the fingers. Place in the heart of
head lettuce or other bed of green, if to be served from a
large receptacle, or on lettuce or other large single leaves
if from individual dishes. If served hulled, strawberries
should have sugar placed on them at least an hour before
serving. The addition of a cup of orange or pineapple
juice will add to the flavour.

‘STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE

The simpler the form of the ‘“‘cake” the more delicious
will be the result, although many people prefer a sponge

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES Ist

or cup cake with the berries. For a plain shortcake make
a sweet biscuit dough (see Introductory Recipes), rolling
out an inch thick, cutting in diamonds or squares or rounds,
and baking like biscuits. These may be readily broken
open (never cut) and the mashed berries,sweetened (to-
gether with some whole ones) mixed and heaped upon them
for individual serving. Or the dough may be rolled thin-
ner, spread with butter, folding over once and baking in
either one sheet or individual form, the butter facilitating
the opening of the cake. Or single, inch-thick sheets may
be made and heaped in layers, using the crushed berries for
filling, the whole ones for the top. Another form of short-
cake is to add to the biscuit dough two well-beaten eggs.
Whipped cream may be heaped over the whole berries
used on the top of any form of the cake.

STRAWBERRY BATTER CUPS

Stir one pint of sugar through a quart of slightly mashed
berries. Make a batter with one and a half cups of flour
in which has been sifted a half-teaspoon of salt and one heap-
ing teaspoon of baking-powder. Mix with this a table-
spoon of butter, two beaten eggs, and one cup of milk.
Place a layer of the batter in buttered cups or moulds, then
a layer of the berries, etc., until two-thirds full. Steam
or bake for forty minutes. Serve with whipped cream
or strawberry sauce

STRAWBERRY SAUCE

+ « Cream together one cup of sugar and a half-cup of but-
ter; add the whipped white of an egg, then one cup of
‘mashed or chopped berries. Place on ice several hours
before serving.

152 FRUIT RECIPES

STRAWBERRY DUMPLINGS
Line muffin rings with thin-rolled sweet biscuit dough
and bake quickly. When browned fill the shells with ripe
strawberries, sprinkle sugar on top, and serve. Or make
like conventional dumplings. (See ‘“‘The Apple.’’)

STRAWBERRY TART
Line sides of large or small pans or baking dishes with
pastry and bake a light brown. Fill then with strawberry
jam or fresh berries and serve (dished) with a meringue or
whipped cream. Or finish with lattice strips as for English
Apple Tart and brown.

STRAWBERRY FLOAT

Heat a quart of milk with one cup of sugar and a pinch
of salt. When at boiling point add one tablespoon of
cornstarch which has been dissolved in a little of the milk
(cold). Cook for three minutes, when add the beaten yolks
of three eggs; whip together two minutes and remove
from stove, letting cool. Meantime have ready a pint of
sweet berries mashed with one-half cup of sugar. Let
stand an hour then strain. Whip the whites of the eggs,
and two tablespoons powdered sugar, then the juice from
the berries; place on top of the custard when the latter is
ice cold and serve quickly.

STRAWBERRY PYRAMID

Have cooked one pint of flaky rice. Place a layer of it
on the bottom of glass serving-dish, spreading with a table-
spoon of butter. Alternate this with layers of whole straw-
berries (sugared) until a pyramid is formed. Serve with
cream.

ESCALLOPED STRAWBERRIES

Alternate layers of strawberries and whipped cream in

glass serving-dish. Chill on ice and serve.

ba
A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 153

STRAWBERRY WHIPS

Make as for Apple Snow, allowing one cupful of straw-
berries and one cup of sugar to each white of egg. Mash
the berries well, then proceed as for Apple Snow. Serve
in sherbet cups.

STRAWBERRY ICE AND SHERBET

See Introductory Recipes for Ices.

FROZEN STRAWBERRIES

Let whole strawberries stand for an hour with generous
quantity of sugar, then pack in freezer and let stand in ice
and salt five hours.

STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM

Allow a quart of berries, mashed and sweetened, to each
quart of mixed milk and cream scalded. Freeze. (Also
see Introductory Recipes.)

STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE

Simmer for twenty minutes mashed strawberries, adding
no sugar. Strain. To each pint of this juice allow a pint
of sugar.. Heat sugar and add to the syrup when it has
been replaced on stove and is at boiling point. Skim and
let boil till thick and pour over whole, hulled berries ready
in heated glasses; or, pour first the syrup into the glasses,
then drop the berries in the scalding syrup (not too many
to each glass). When cold cover with brandied paper and
set in the sun daily for a month.

STRAWBERRY PRESERVES

Use the best berries that they may need no washing.
Allow a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit and place

154 FRUIT RECIPES

together over a slow fire with no water. Do not mash
in stirring and when skimming is required set on back of
stove that scum may rise before trying to remove it. When
sugar is dissolved boil fast for thirty minutes; remove
fruit; place in jars; boil syrup five minutes longer, then
pour over the berries and seal.

TO SEAL STRAWBERRIES WITHOUT COOKING
(Old-Fashioned Recipe)

Take firm berries and weigh, allowing one-quarter pound
of sugar for each pound of fruit. Place sugar and berries
in layers in earthenware dishes and let stand in cool spot
over night. Drain off juice without breaking berries and
weigh juice. Deduct this weight from the weight of the
fruit. Weigh out as much sugar as the fruit weighs with-
out the juice (deducting the quarter-pound of sugar already
used). Place berries and sugar in layers in large-necked
jars or bottles which must be corked and wired very tight.
Then place them in outer vessel of cold water and let latter
come to a boil. When this exact point is reached remove
and seal the corked bottle air-tight. These bottles should
be looked at for six weeks daily, turning them to keep fruit
from moulding, but carefully—not to break fruit.

SPICED STRAWBERRIES

Strawberries may be spiced after making into jams as
below.

STRAWBERRY JAMS

Boil mashed berries in their own juice till well reduced,
when add heated sugar, three-fourths to each pint of fruit
or pound for pound, cooking down slowly till of desired
thickness. Strawberry jam is usually too sweet. To
offset this do not be afraid to add lemon juice, pie plant, or

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 155

other tart fruit. Also a very delicious variety may be had
by using with the strawberries equal quantity of goose-
berry, fig, date, pineapple, cherry, currant, red raspberry,
or orange or lemon marmalade.

STRAWBERRY JELLY

Strawberry jelly may be made with gelatine, of the
strawberry juice alone, if tart; or, if sweet and full ripe, with
red currant juice or lemon juice added. Heat berries in
double boiler till juice is free, mashing them well. For
each pint of resulting, strained juice, allow the juice of a
small lemon or one-half cup red currant juice, and for each
pint of mixed juice, one pound of sugar.

STRAWBERRY SHRUB No. 1

Dissolve five ounces tartaric acid in two quarts of water
and pour it over twelve pounds hulled berries (in earthen-
ware), letting stand forty-eight hours, with plate to keep
them down. Strain through flannel bag, then add to
, juice one and one-half pounds granulated sugar for each pint
of juice. Stir till dissolved; bottle; cork and keep in cool
place. (Do not seal corks.) Add two and one-half tea-
spoons of this to each glass of cold water when serving.

STRAWBERRY SHRUB No. 2

Make as above up to bottling point, when pour it over
ten pounds more of berries; let stand twenty-four hours;
strain and add sugar, a pound for each pint. Boil then
five minutes, then simmer five more, and bottle.

STRAWBERRY WINE

Scaid berries; press and strain juice; allow to each quart
two pounds sugar and one quart soft water. Ferment as

156 FRUIT RECIPES

for currant wine and leave cask undisturbed for six months
before using.
STRAWBERRY BRANDY

To eight quarts mashed berries add four pounds loaf
sugar and one gallon brandy. Pour into a four-gallon jug,
tying cheesecloth over the mouth, and let stand three weeks
before corking. Bottle after six months.

STRAWBERRY VINEGAR

To one gallon of strawberries take four pounds sugar.
Mash together; add two gallons soft water and place in
warm spot to ferment.

TO DRY STRAWBERRIES

Spread the berries on plates, sprinkling sugar over them
and placing in the sun, protecting with netting as for apples.

For Strawberry Soufflé, Gelatine, Fritters, etc., see
Introductory Recipes and other fruits.

BLACKBERRY JAM. No. 1

Take equal weight of blackberries and currants, adding
pound for pound of sugar (and fruit); no water; cooking
slowly together till sugar is dissolved, when boil fast for
thirty minutes.

BLACKBERRY JAM No. 2

If blackberries alone are used take but three-fourths
pound of sugar to each pound of fruit and proceed as above.

BLACKBERRY JELLY

Extract juice as from strawberries; allow one pint heated
sugar to each pint of juice. May take twenty minutes to
jell.

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 157

BLACKBERRIES PRESERVED

Allow equal weight of sugar and fruit; place in jars in
layers and let stand over night. Juice should not over-
flow, but if lacking fillup. (Let fruit be three inches from
tops.) Cork and wire or screw on tops, letting come to
boil in water bath. Let remain five minutes; seal tight
and place in cooler spot till cold.

Blackberries and strawberries or pieplant may be put
up together.

PICKLED BLACKBERRIES

Allow three tablespoons fruit vinegar to,each quart of
berries; also one cup of sugar. Boil with the sugar and .
vinegar a half-teaspoon each of cassia buds, mace and cloves
(in bags). Add berries and cook slowly twenty minutes.
Seal while hot.

BLACKBERRY CATSUP

Cover berries with boiling water; simmer ten minutes;
press and strain juice, for each quart adding one-half
teaspoon mace, cinnamon, white mustard and pepper.
Reduce to one-fourth quantity, then add strong vinegar
till of consistency liked. Bottle and seal while hot.

BLACKBERRY VINEGAR

Allow two gallons of water and a half-pound of sugar
to each gallon of mashed blackberries. Mix and place in
cask, with tablespoon of yeast. Set in warm place and
shake every few days. May be drained off in three months
to get rid of pulp or new holes bored in cask to prevent
inconvenience.

BLACKBERRY WINE No. 1

For each quart of fully ripe fruit mashed and placed in
tub, allow a quart of boiling (soft) water. Pour on berries

158 FRUIT RECIPES

and let stand till next day, stirring once in a while.
Then press out, strain and measure juice, allowing a half-
pound of sugar to each quart of the liquid (first placing
sugar in a cask and straining juice into it). Stir till dis-
solved, then let cask remain unstopped till fermentation is
over. At this point stir in the beaten whites of four eggs
or a half-ounce of gum arabic dissoived in a little water.
Leave open till next day, when it may be bunged. Will be
ready to bottle in two months.

BLACKBERRY WINE No. 2

Scald berries; press and strain juice, allowing for each
quart of juice two quarts of soft water and three pounds of
white coffee sugar. Keep bung open till fermentation
ceases, when stop, and place barrel in cool place for eight
months, then bottle.

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL No. 1

Crush and strain berries, allowing for each quart one-
half pound loaf sugar, a teaspoon each of cloves and cin-
namon (powdered) and a grated nutmeg. Boil all together
fifteen minutes; cool, and for each quart of syrup add one-
half pint brandy. Bottle. Dose: From one teaspoon to
wineglassful.

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL No. 2

To three pounds uncooked berries allow one pound white
sugar and let stand twelve hours. Then press and strain,
adding one-third rum or brandy and allowing one teaspoon
allspice (powdered) to each quart of cordial. It must be
bottled some time before it is fit for use.

BLACKBERRY BRANDY

Mix equal parts of fruit juice and brandy, for each gallon
allowing one pound loaf sugar,

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 159

BLACKBERRY SLUMP OR STEAMED PUDDING

1. Rub together two cups flour, one-half cup sugar, two-
thirds cup milk, one egg, a tablespoon of butter, and two*
cups of berries. Sift through flour two teaspoons baking
powder and pinch of salt. Stir in berries last thing, then
place in buttered mould or bucket; cover well and steam
two hours. Serve hot with milk or sweet sauce.

2. Fill tight-covered vessel half full of hot, stewed ber-
ries; cover with biscuit dough; cover tight and bake, or
steam in boiling water.

BLACKBERRY PIE

Line sides only of pan or dish and make like huckle-
berry pie. Huckleberries or pieplant may be used in equal
proportion with the blackberries.

BERRY MUFFINS

Into a pint of flour in which have been sifted two tea-
spoons baking-powder and half-teaspoon salt, rub one-half
cup butter or shortening, then add one cup milk, one table-
spoon sugar and a beaten egg. When mixed well add one
cup berries and bake in muffin tins twenty minutes in
rather brisk oven. ~

BLACKBERRY FARINA

Wash, stew and mash a quart of berries (with two table-
spoons water) then add one teacup farina, a pinch of salt,
and cook fifty minutes in double boiler. Place in wet
moulds to harden. For breakfast slice and serve with
cream.

BLACKBERRY CHARLOTTE RUSSE

Place stale sponge cake around edges of serving dish,

filling centre with berries. Heap whipped cream over the

top.

160 FRUIT RECIPES

TO DRY BLACKBERRIES

Dry in thin layers in sun (fruit not over ripe), proceed-
ing as for strawberries.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS

For other methods of preparation see Introductory
Recipes or adapt from other fruits. :

RASPBERRY SOUP

See Introductory Recipes (Fruit Soups).

ROSE SANDWICHES

Use thin-sliced bread. Spread with a very little butter
(or none) adding a thin layer of cream cheese, then stiff rasp-
berry jam. Cut the bread from each corner (diagonally)
across, twice, forming triangles, or with cutters, in rounds.

RASPBERRY JAM (Old English Recipe) No. 1

To every pound of raspberries allow a pound of sugar,
and to whatever proportion of raspberries used allow one-
fourth weight of currants. Wash and strain currants and
cook juice with the sugar about twenty minutes, then add
the raspberries, whole, simmering together twenty-five
minutes. Bottle and seal at once.

RASPBERRY JAM No. 2 AND No. 3

Make as for Blackberry Jam No. 1 and No. 2, or add
equal quantity of gooseberries or strawberries.

RASPBERRY JAM No. 4

Weigh berries and simmer without water till reduced
one-third, when add gradually as many pounds of heated
sugar as there were berries (original weight). As soon as

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 161

sugar is melted thoroughly and has boiled up once, place in
jars and seal at once.

RASPBERRY JELLY No. r
Make as for Currant Jelly No. 1.

RASPBERRY JELLY No. 2

Make as for Currant Jelly No. 1, using, however, but one
pint of currant juice to two of raspberries.

BLACK RASPBERRY PUDDING
Line a pudding-dish with a sweet biscuit dough and bake
till a pale brown, when pour into it the stiff-beaten whites
of four eggs, then, slowly, a cup of sugar, and last a quart
of berries. Bake in moderate oven till done.

RED RASPBERRY PUDDING

Make as for Blackberry Pudding (Steamed), using the
whipped whites of eggs in addition to yolks and serving
with crushed raspberries sweetened well and heated just
before serving.

RASPBERRY ICE

Make as for simple Introductory Recipe for Fruit Ices
or by mixing one quart red raspberries with one pound of
sugar, the juiceof an orange and lemon, letting stand an
hour, straining, adding a quart of water and freezing.

FROZEN RASPBERRIES
Mash but do not strain the fruit. Add ta this sugar and
let stand an hour before freezing.
RASPBERRY SHRUB

Pour one quart cider vinegar over two quarts red rasp-
berries in a jar or crock and let stand three days, when mash

162 FRUIT RECIPES

and strain, and to each pint of juice add one pound sugar.
Boil twenty minutes, skimming well. Bottle when cold.

RASPBERRY VINEGAR OR SHRUB (Without Sugar)

Pour a quart of wine vinegar over three quarts of ber-
ries and jet stand two days. Press out juice; pour over
fresh berries and repeat twice. Last time bottle (without
sugar).

RASPBERRY ROYAL

Use four quarts of best berries. Pour over them one
quart cider vinegar and add one pound sugar, mashing all
to a paste. Let stand in sun four hours, when strain off
juice and add one pint brandy. Bottle, seal, and place in
cellar.

RASPBERRY VINEGAR (For Cooking or Table Use)

Mix twelve pounds sugar with three gallons water and
six quarts raspberry juice. Let fru‘t pulp stand in an-
other gallon of water with a pound cf sugar and three
tablespoons yeast till well worked up once, when strain
and place with the rest of the liquor in a cask.

RASPBERRY CORDIAL

Fill stone jar with ripe berries; cover close and let stand
where it will heat gently till fruit breaks of itself. Squeeze
juice through linen bag and to each quart allow one pound
of loaf sugar. Let all come to a boil and skim well till scum
ceases to rise, when remove from stove and put again
through linen bag, pouring into a crock with brandy in
equal proportion to juice. Stir, and when cold place in
demijohn and cork for two weeks, when, if not clear, filter,
then bottle and seal.

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 163

RASPBERRY WINE

Mix together eight pounds sugar, eight quarts soft
water, and one gallon juice of raspberries. Ferment as
for Blackberry Wine. For a sweeter wine allow two
quarts of water to each quart of juice and three pounds
sugar. The berries for this must be simmered till soft in
their own juice, strained, and the pulp washed out with a
little additional water to be added, strained.

RASPBERRY CATSUP

Use a quart of vinegar to a gallon of berries. Cook
longer than for blackberry catsup. Add one-half pound
sugar for each quart of juice. Lemon juice may be added
if liked. Otherwise proceed as with blackberries.

OLD-FASHIONED WHORTLEBERRY PUDDING

Rub a pint of flour in wita a quart of whortleberries and
a little salt, wetting the whole with a very little water—
about a half-cup. Tie snug in a pudding cloth with no
room for swelling and boil two hours. Serve with a sweet
or wine sauce.

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE No. 1

Cream one cup of sugar with a half-cup of butter; add
one cup of milk, two of flour, and two teaspoons baking
powder. Place a pint of huckleberries in 4 dish and rub
sugar through them well, then stir into the cake and bake
in shallow pans.

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE No. 2

Sift through a quart of flour a scant teaspoon of salt and
two (heaping) of baking powder. Rub into this a table-
spoon of shortening, two eggs, a cup of milk, and quart of
berries well sugared, and bake quickly in a shallow pan.
Serve with butter or cream, cutting the cake open.

’

164 FRUIT RECIPES

BLUEBERRY BREAD OR MUFFINS

Make as above or for Blackberry Muffins, in muffin rings
or one shallow sheet.

HUCKLEBERRY SLUMP

See Blackberry Slump.

HUCKLEBERRY MUSH

Make as for Blackberry Farina. Serve hot or
cold (sliced).

WHORTLEBERRY OR HUCKLEBERRY PIE

Line the sides of baking dish or pan with paste and fill
centre with the berries, sprinkling with sugar, adding a
lump of butter and a tablespoon each of flour and water.
Flavour with lemon or cranberry juice. Cover with crust
or lattice strips and bake.

HUCKLEBERRY JELLY

Heat berries not yet fully ripe very slowly without water.
Add pound for pint of sugar and juice. The perfectly
green berries or the berries mature yet hard, and red in
colour, may be used alone, or one-third of each (green
and red) and one-third ripe berries to give a richer, deeper
colour. This last combination makes a rich, tart jelly.

HUCKLEBERRY JAM

Cook berries in their own juice and proceed as for Rasp-
berry Jam No. 4. A little lemon or other tart fruit juice
may be used if only the mature berries can be secured.
Red and black mixed are best. Or, with the huckleberries,
use equal quantity of currants or gooseberries,

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 165

TO CAN WHORTLEBERRIES
See Introductory Recipe for Canning Fruits. -

WHORTLEBERRY WINE

Scald berries with boiling water, letting stand well
covered in it over night. Measure in the morning and to
each gallon allow two pounds sugar, placing in cask to
ferment. After this ceases close bung and let stand nine
months, when filter and bottle. This may be spiced if
liked.

WHORTLEBERRY VINEGAR

To each gallon of well-crushed fruit allow a pound of
sugar and gallon and a half of water, Let ferment as for
other fruit vinegars.

WHORTLEBERRY CATSUP

To each gallon of fruit allow two quarts boiling water;
pour over and let stand twelve hours. Press through sieve
and to each gallon of the liquor allow one teaspoon each
of pepper, cloves, mace, white mustard, and cinnamon.
Simmer an hour, then strain, and to each quart allow one-
half pound sugar. Stir together and boil. Add lemon
juice till sufficiently tart and dilute.

TO DRY WHORTLEBERRIES

Dry as for strawberries. Before using soak over night.
In cooking them add a little lemon or other tart fruit
juice.

CRANBERRY SAUCE

Pick over and wash a quart of cranberries, adding one
and one-half cups cold water and stewing slowly about an
hour. The tenderness and colour of the skins will indicate
when they are done. Remave from the stove before °
adding sugar generously.

166 FRUIT RECIPES

CRANBERRY SYRUP

Make a syrup of a pint each of sugar and water and drop
into it the whole, uncooked berries, simmering until clear
and tender.

CRANBERRY JELLY

Proceed as for Cranberry Sauce till berries are tender,
when add a pound of sugar for each pint of juice and sim-
mer three minutes before removing from fire. Strain
through coarse sieve and place in wet moulds. Serve cold.

CRANBERRY COMPOTE

Make a heavy syrup as for Cranberry Syrup and place
in this (while boiling) a quart of cranberries which have been
pricked with a coarse needle (twice). Cook the berries
and syrup together till syrup is very thick, when remove
and serve cold.

CRANBERRY SHORTCAKE

Make as for Strawberry Shortcake, using recipe for Sauce
given above, and serving with a meringue.

CRANBERRY SPONGE
See Introductory Recipes for ‘‘Sponge.”” Use with this
the Syrup.
CRANBERRY SNOW
Make as for Apple Snow, beating in the berries sub-

stituted in the form of strained sauce. Serve with a
simple ‘“‘float.”’

CRANBERRY TART

Make as for Gooseberry Tart, which will give variations.
Also add a cup of raisins sometimes for a change.

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 167

STEAMED CRANBERRY PUDDING

Make a simple Batter Pudding (see Introductory
Recipes) adding a cup or more of chopped, uncooked cran-
berries, and flour to make rather stiff. Steam for two hours
and serve with cranberry sauce.

CRANBERRY CAKE (Frozen)

Make as for Sauce, straining. Add three. cups of this
to a syrup made of a pint each of sugar and water. Freeze
partialfy, then mix in one pint of cream (whipped or plain)
and complete the freezing. Frozen custard or ice may
also be made with the cranberry.

CRANBERRY BOMBE

Cook berries as for the Compote, adding a tablespoon of
dissolved gelatine, then cool and add a pint of whipped
white of egg or omit gelatine and add a pint of whipped
cream. Sweeten more heavily and freeée in a bombe or
melon mould as for Melon Roll. Or, freeze the berries
(cooled) partially, then line the mould with the mixture
and fill the centre with the whipped egg or cream.

TO KEEP CRANBERRIES (Uncooked)

Cranberries may be dried, or may be bottled, filling up
with cold water, then corked and placed in cool dry
place. Sometimes a good firkin will answer the same
purpose when examined frequently.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR CRANBERRIES

Cranberries make an excellent Roly Poly or may be
spiced or used as jam adjunct or the syrup in drinks
(shrubs and cordials) ; are more susceptible of variation than
generally supposed and, being more wholesome than al-
most any other tart sauce, should be more widely used.

168 FRUIT RECIPES

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MULBERRIES

Mulbetries may be used in all ways suitable for black-
or raspberries but are superior to them or almost any
other fruit in the matter of jelly-making, having the rich
colour and tartness of currant with a little more ‘ body,”
but very tender. For shrub and rob, also, the mulberry
has few rivals.

MULBERRY JELLY Neo. rx

For a most brilliant, crimson jelly, tart and firm, use
only the hard, red, immature berries (those nearly full-
sized). To each three quarts of berries add one quart
cold water. Let simmer slowly together fifty minutes,
when add a second quart of cold water and simmer again
for an hour, mashing well the berries. The resulting juice
should be thick and rich-looking. Have sugar ready, heat-
ed, in another pan, and allow a pint for each pint of juice.
Skim well. When the sugar has quite dissolved and boiled
three minutes test it, for it may then be ready to pour into
glasses. Five minutes is usually quite sufficient. Place in
the sun till firm and cool.

MULBERRY JELLY No. 2
For a darker, sweet, jelly, use equal parte of the hard
ted (or even the berries scarcely yet red), and fully ripe’
berries. Use but a pint of water with three quarts of
berries, simmering till all juice can be extracted by mashing
in the kettle. Strain well and proceed as above.

MULBERRY MARMALADE AND JAM

These may be made from the berries used for jelly, in
which case the stems must be clipped before cooking, but
they are richer to be made with fresh, uncooked berries.
For Marmalade mash the pulp and put through coarse

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 169

sieve, return to fire with equal measure of sugar, and cook
till of desired consistency. For the Jam simmer the ber-
ries in their own juice till tender but whole. Add sugar as
above and cook till thick as desired.

MULBERRY WINE

Shake the ripe or partly ripe berries from tree on to clean
sacking or sheeting and place in a tub where they may be
well pounded and mashed. Strain, and to each gallon of
juice add three pounds of sugar, placing in a cask with open
bung. This should ferment and be fit for racking off into
another cask in six weeks. Will be fit for bottling and use
in eight months.

MULBERRY BRANDY

4
To each quart of juice allow a quart of brandy and one
pound of sugar. Let stand six weeks, then filter and bottle.

ROB OF ELDER

Boil the juice of elderberries with spices; one quart of
juice to one tablespoon each of cloves, nutmeg, and cinna-
mon. At the end of a half hour strain and add one-half
pound loaf sugar. Boil and skim again. Let cool, add
a half-pint of “fourth” brandy, and bottle. Or first make
a heavy syrup of juice and sugar, then spice lightly with
élove alone. Seal while hot.

SYRUP OF ROB OF ELDER (For Coughs)

To a pint of juice from elderberries add a pint of molasses
and boil twenty minutes, stitring all the while. When
quite cold add three-fourths teacup of brandy for each
quart.

170 FRUIT RECIPES

ELDERBERRY WINE No.1

Strain the juice of crushed berries, adding for six quarts

of juice a half-gallon of water. Use three pounds

-of sugar to each gallon of the liquid. Let ferment in a

cask or open earthen jar, filling up as it evaporates. When

fermentation ceases stop well and set aside for eight months
before racking off.

ELDERBERRY WINE No. 2 (Spiced)

Boil five gallons elderberries with same amount of rain-
water. Strain and add twenty-three pounds white sugar
with four ounces red (or crude) tartar and to each gallon
allow a dessertspoon of strong yeast. Add one-half ounce
each of ginger, nutmeg, mace, and cloves with one and a
half ounces bitter almonds. Let ferment and when this
is over close cask tight, racking it off later at convenience.

ELDER BLOSSOM WINE (Home-brewed Frontignac)

Allow a gallon of water to each quart of stripped flowers,
and to each gallon of water three pounds of sugar. Make
a good syrup of sugar and water, skimming well, and pouring
while boiling over the flowers. To each gallon of this
liquor add the juice of one lemon and a heaping dessert-
spoon of ‘‘home-brewed hop-yeast,” stirring thoroughly.
Place in wooden or earthen receptacle, covered with a
heavy cloth, and let ferment three days. Then strain and
add the beaten white of one egg, stirring well through the
liquid. Allow for each gzlion of wine a little over a pound
of raisins, chopping them and placing on the bottom of
the cask. On them pour the wine; close the bung, and in
six months it will be found ready for use.

ELDERBERRY BRANDY

For each gallon of berries allow a gallon of brandy and let’
stand a month before using. Spice may be added if wished.

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 171

ELDER-FLAVOURED ALE

Allow a bushel of the berries to a cask of ale and eight
ounces each of cinnamon, candied lemon or orange peel,
nutmeg, mace, cloves, and ginger.

ELDERBERRY CATSUP (For Fish or Flavouring Meat Sauces)

Place a gallon of ripe berries in a jar and pour over them
one gallon boiling vinegar, letting stand in this over night
on back of warm stove. In the morning strain and place
the vinegar in preserving kettle to heat. Crush and rub
berries through sieve and add to the vinegar a teaspoon
each of grated nutmeg, clove and cinnamon, one-half tea-
spoon each salt and ginger, and two blades of mace. Boil
for ten minutes, then bottle (spice and all) while hot. Let
stand five or six weeks, then strain; re-heat to boiling
point and re-bottle.

ELDERBERRY JELLY

This may be made of the elderberries alone, plain, spiced,
or with lemon juice added, or half and half, with green or
ripe grapes (former preferably), gooseberries, or currants.

ELDER-FLOWER PANCAKES AND JUNKET

The finest flowers of the elder blossoms, stripped, may
be whipped lightly into pancakes or muffins just before
baking, a half-cupful to each ‘‘batch”’ of ordinary quan-
tity This gives both lightness and flavour. A plain
junket should have added one-fourth part flowers to
quantity of cream or milk used.

ELDERBERRY TARTS

The elderberry is equal to the huckleberry for tarts
but should have spices or lemon added to flavour.

172 FRUIT RECIPES

ELDERBERRIES DRIED
Sun-dry the berries as for strawberries. (In some parts
of Europe peasants use these in soups through the winter.)
ELDER-FLOWER WATER
To five pounds of flowers take one gallon water and one-
half ounce rectified spirits. Distil off a half-gallon.
WHITE ELDER OINTMENT

Boil equal weight of elder flowers and fresh sweet lard
or suet and strain through a cloth into boxes or jars. This
is considered a cooling application.

PRIED BARBERRIES

Dry as for other berries in a loose layer in the sun.

BARBERRIES PRESERVED (Cold)

Place bunches of barberries in jars (uncooked); fill up
with cold molasses, and seal tight.

PRESERVED BARBERRIES COOKED

Place berries in double boiler for two hours ar till heated
through. Remove and weigh. Allow equal weight of
berries and sugar but cook berries with no water (on re-
placing) twenty minutes befare adding sugar. When
sugar has dissolved, berries soften and juice begins to jell,
remove to jars and seal.

BARBERRY JAM

Allow one-quarter pound sugar to each quart ripe berries.
Mash them; mix with sugar (no water) and boil till no
seum rises. Cook an hour or over, always, The jam may
be put up as itis, or made into marmalade, mashed through

ACLUSTER OF BERRIES 173

a coarse sieve. Added to fig or pear or apple the jam
proves a source of pleasing variety in flavour.

SYRUP OF BARBERRIES (For Drinks, etc.)

Cook berries till soft and clear, then cook with syrup as
for Cranberry Syrup, mashing berries; straining and re-
turning to fire to cook again before bottling. This syrup
may be used for ices, puddings, etc., or combined, as is
currant or cranberry or lemon juice, with other fruits for
jellies, pies, or other “‘dishes.’’ With raisins, pears, figs,
or apples it is particularly good for tarts.

RED CURRANT JELLY No. 1

Pick the fruit on a dry day before the currants are quite
ripe, Stem them and scald over boiling water (in an inner
vessel), then let the currants remain an hour over a moder-
ate fire. Pour into a jelly bag without crushing and let
drip over night. Place juice in preserving kettle and let
boil ten minutes. Skim, and when just at a boil stir in the
sugar, having measured the cold juice and allowing for
each full pint one and one-fourth pounds sugar (heated).
This should jell by the time sugar is dissolved, requiring
never more than five minutes. Let stand in sun several
days.

WHITE CURRANT JELLY

Make by above method.

BLACK CURRANT JELLY

Black Currant Jelly may be made as above with the ex-
ception of adding a little water to the fruit when first put
on, otherwise the syrup would be too thick.

RED CURRANT JELLY No. 2 (Without Cooking)

Crush currants without stemming and squeeze through
a coarse cloth. Weigh, instead of measuring juice, and

174 FRUIT RECIPES

allow a pound of sugar for each pound of juice. Stir
together with the hand till sugar is smoothly dissolved.
Place in glasses and let stand in window where hot sun-
light may shine on them through glass for at least five
days. Cover and keep in cool, dry place.

BAR-LE-DUC (Imitation of the Imported Jam or Jelly)

1. Add one-fifth part of currants (by weight) to red
raspberries. Crush and strain currants and weigh again,
this time with the raspberries, fruit separated by paper.
Add three-quarters pound of sugar for each pound of the
second weighing of fruit and juice and simmer, then boil—
skimming—for twenty-five minutes, when add the rasp-
berries (uncrushed) and boil until the juice jells (in about
fifteen minutes), then remove and seal well while hot.

2. Boil together five minutes two-thirds measure
of sugar (as two pints) to one of cold _ water.
Measure the syrup resulting and when again boil-
ing add to it equal measure of strained red or white
currant juice. When this jells add seeded garden currants
which have been carefully opened with fine sharp wooden
blade ora quill. Ifthe measure of syrup is one pint add one
pint currants; if a quart, then a quart of currants and so
on. Let boil up once when remove; pour into jars and
set (uncovered) in a dark, dry, and cool place for five or
six days, then seal. The currant juice is sometimes omitted,
only the sugar syrup and fruit used. The currants, if red,
should be pale in colour.

RED CURRANT JAM

Wash, stem, and weigh currants, allowing equal weight
of sugar, adding it when fruit has been boiling three minutes.
When dissolved and at boiling point remove and place in
jars.

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 178

To make a darker, thicker jam boil sugar and fruit
together an hour.

BLACK CURRANT JAM

Make as above but cook fifteen minutes before adding
sugar, then fifteen minutes before removing, stirring all the
while.

CURRANT RAISIN JAM

Wash, drain, seed, and chop two pounds Muscatel raisins
and place in preserving kettle. Meanwhile have ready,
washed and stemmed, sufficient white currants to make
three quarts of juice when mashed and strained. Add to
this three pounds of sugar and stir the sweetened juice into
the raisins. Mix well and let slowly come to a boil, skim-
ming and stirring till it is thick and smooth. Let cool;
place in jars and seal.

SPICED CURRANTS

Three pounds sugar; five pounds currants; one pint
vinegar; tablespoon each cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and
allspice, with one teaspoon salt. Simmer carefully three
hours, then bottle.

CURRANT CATSUP

To four pounds washed, stemmed currants add two
pounds brown sugar and one pint vinegar. Simmer till
sufficiently thick when add spice (one teaspoon each cloves,
pepper, and cinnamon). Boil five minutes longer; strain
and bottle.

CURRANT SHORTCAKE
Make a sweet shortcake, placing between layers and

on top washed, mashed currants well sweetened, with a
merringue, lightly browned.

176 FRUIT RECIPES

RED CURRANT PUDDING

Stew two-thirds currants and one-third raspberries with
a little sugar till soft; pour off juice and place fruit in a
pudding-dish lined with stale sponge cake, Let stand
till cold with eake on top and on this a weight. Boil down
the juice poured off and when ready to serve pour it over
the pudding.
CURRANT ICE AND SHERBET

To each quart of juice allow a pound of sugar. Let
gently heat till sugar is melted when cool and freeze. Serve
with stemmed currants sprinkled over the ice in sherbet
glasses. Sweet raspberry syrup will lessen the tartness
and give variation of flavour. For sherbet add the usual
whipped whites of eggs (see Introductory Recipes).

CURRANT ICE CREAM

Partly freeze the cream or custard before adding currant
juice. Where fresh or canned currants are not to be had
two teaspoons of currant jelly and juice of one lemon may
be used for each pint of the frozen mixture (cream, custard,
or ice).

CURRANT CUP

Cook into syrup a pint each of sugar and water. When
cool pour it over stemmed currants and set on ice four
hours, Serve in sherbet glasses.

CURRANT SHRUB

Strain currant juice and allow a pound of sugar for each
pint of juice. Boil five minutes, then stir till cool. Bottle
when cold. Old-fashioned proportion is one tablespoon
to each glass of water. Another shrub calls for a wineglass
of brandy to each pint of syrup.

PERFECTION CURRANT

nigra

BLOSSOM OF THE COMMON ELDER
Sambucus

azis [BIN}eU Y}INOJ-2uO HILNOS AHL AO
AUYAITON (CIOVIG) HONAWA FHL «AUUVATATIONH HOI» NOWWOO FHL

4

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 177

RED CURRANT WINE

To a quart each of currant juice and sugar allow two
quarts of water. Place in a cask unstopped, for three
weeks, when place bung in loosely for a week longer—until
all danger of fermentation is past. Then seal tight and
let stand a year before using.

CURRANT AND RASPBERRY WINE

To four gallons of red currants add one quart red rasp-
berries; scald, crush, and strain. On the pulp pour five
and a half gallons cold water and one pound sliced red beet,
letting stand over night. When strained add this to the
juice. Dissolve in the whole ten pounds white sugar and
three ounces red tartar. Place in cask and when fermenta-
tion has ceased bung tight and let stand eight months.

BLACK CURRANT AND STRAWBERRY WINE

To three gallons black currants add six quarts straw-
berries, two ounces red tartar, and twelve and a half pounds
of sugar. Heat the fruit and press out juice then add
sugar. When dissolved stir in five and a half gallons soft
water and let ferment. *

GREEN CURRANT WINE

. Take full grown currants still green in colour. Stem
and weigh and allow for each three pounds one gallon
water. Mash and proceed as with Gooseberry Champagne,
using brown instead of white sugar.

BLACK CURRANT BRANDY (For Intestinal Disorders)

In one gallon cold water place two gallons black currants.
Let heat gradually and boil one-half hour. Remove and
cool; add two gallons deodorised pure spirits; stir and

178 FRUIT RECIPES

strain, mashing fruit to extract juice. To juice add four
pounds sugar and place in a cask. Wash fruit pulp in
half-gallon each of water and spirits; mash and strain
again; add two more pounds sugar and pour in with first
liquor (in cask). May be used in a month but improves
with age.

WHITE CURRANT BRANDY

To each half-gallon currant juice add one quart spirits
and two pounds sugar. Let stand undisturbed three
months before bottling.

CURRANT VINEGAR

Pour juice from two gallons mashed currants in a barrel;
wash remaining pulp in water; add to it two gallons molas-
ses; strain when dissolved and pour also into the barrel
with enough soft water to fill barrel two-thirds full. Dis-
solve meantime a cup of strong yeast in a gallon of water
and add to the mixture. Place barrel in sun and while
fermenting shake often. The autumn following add
eight gallons water.

CURRANT PUNCH

Make a syrup of a pint each of sugar arid water, boiling
and skimming. Add juice of an orange and lemon; strain,
and mix in a glass of currant jelly or half pint currant
juice. Let cool, then add shaved ice and charged water.

DRIED GARDEN CURRANTS

Pick just before ripe; stew without crushing in a little
sugar; spread on plates, with sugar strewn thickly over, and
dry in the sun. To be eaten as they are as a relish, or as
confection with desserts. May also be soaked over night
and stewed for sauce.

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 179

CURRANTS IN SALADS

Red currants make one of the most artistic additions to
salads, the loose sprays laid around the edges of the plates,
or as a garnish to a salad bowl or, stemmed, used with
other fruits or with vegetables for the body of a salad.

CURRANT COLOURING

Currant juice may be preserved (see Introductory
Recipes) and may be used effectively for colouring sauces,
drinks, ices, creams, or as flavouring.

CURRANTS—TO SERVE SIMPLY UNCOOKED

Currants may be iced as for frosted grapes and cherries
or may be crushed and sweetened a little before serving
uncooked.

GOOSEBERRY JELLY

.Use no water. Heat berries through and press to extract
all juice. Strain and measure, allowing pound for pint
of sugar and juice. Boil ten minutes and place in glasses.

GOOSEBERRY JAMS

When used alone cook the gooseberries as for jelly, using
the pulp for jams; strain to remove skins and seeds; allow
equal weight of sugar and cook to thickness desired, Or,
fresh berries may be cooked down in their own juice, adding,
when tender, equal weight of sugar.

Gooseberries and strawberries in equal weight make a
delicious jam and gooseberries with raspberries or some one
of the citrus fruit marmalades form a most agreeable com-
bination.

GOOSEBERRY AND RED CURRANT JAM

Allow two cups red currant juice to each four pounds of
gooseberries and three pounds sugar. Make a syrup and

180 FRUIT RECIPES

place the berries in it, simmering forty minutes, till berries
are translucent, when they are ready to seal.

GOOSEBERRIES AND WHITE CURRANT JAM

Use equal weight of gooseberries, and currants and sugar
equal to their combined weight. Simmer together slowly,
crushing and cooking till tender and thick.

PRESERVED WHOLE GOOSEBERRIES

Make a strong syrup of two pounds of sugar to a pint of
water. Prick gooseberries in several places and put them
in the syrup. Let heat to 160° and take from stove but
let berries remain in syrup over night. Repeat twice;
then re-heat, stopping just short of boiling point, again
letting berries stand over night in the syrup. While still
cold place them in bottles with syrup poured over and set
bottles in the water-bath to finish. Should the berries
seem to be cracking before the water boils remove bottles
at once and seal; otherwise let stand till water is at
boiling point.

SIMPLE GOOSEBERRY PIE

To gooseberries stewed in a little water add sugar to
taste, then crush fruit somewhat; add dessertspoon each
of flour and butter (mixed). Place all in pan or dish with
paste-lined sides and cover with crust, pricked or slashed,
and bake.

GOOSEBERRY TART No. x

Stew berries like cranberries, using two-thirds as much
sugar as fruit. Line tin or dish with pastry and bake it
till light brown before placing gooseberries in it. Finish
with diagonal lattice of pastry; replace in oven and bake

- till done.

A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 181

GOOSEBERRY TART No. 2

Place sugar on ripe, uncooked berries, letting stand till
clear, when mash through coarse sieve and fill pastry shells
(already half-baked). Replace in oven till heated through,
when place meringue on top and lightly brown. Whipped
cream may be substituted for meringue or canned berries-
for the fresh. Also the very small tart shells may be used.

GOOSEBERRY TART No. 3

Line sides of dish with short crust. Pile ripe, uncooked
berries in centre with one-fourth pint sugar and place crust
on top. Prick well. Bake three-quarters of an hour;
sprinkle fine sugar and nutmeg on top and serve with a
jug of cream and dish of custards.

GOOSEBERRY PUDDING (Boiled)

Top and tail a quart of full-grown but green berries;
scald and let stand till cold, after which drain them. Chop
six ounces of beef suet and rub well through a pound of
flour, adding a half-teaspoon of salt and a half-pint of ice
water—just enough to keep the dough together. Roll out
in circular form and place gooseberries in the middle,
meantime having added to them a half-pound of sugar.
(More added before boiling would toughen them.) Draw
up the dough as for dumplings and place in a wet, dredged
pudding cloth; tie, leaving room for swelling, and place
in a pot of fast boiling water, with plate at bottom to pre-
vent scorching. Boil three hours, turning once in a while
and filling up with boiling water as needed. Serve with
sugar.

GOOSEBERRY FOOL No. r

Top and tail a quart of ripe berries and simmer in a pint
of water. When the fruit turns colour, is soft and swelled

182 FRUIT RECIPES

drain and put it through a colander. Add one-half pound
sugar and let cool. Heat a quart of milk and stir into it
carefully the beaten yolks of two eggs. Let thicken and
flavour with nutmeg then remove and mix carefully with
the cold fruit.

GOOSEBERRY FOOL No. 2

Prepare very young gooseberries as above and when
cool add to them gradually a quart of cream, whipping
well. Serve cold.

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR LAMB

Scald a half-pint of berries and stir into a pint of drawn
butter. Serve hot.

GOOSEBERRY CATSUP

Make as for Currant Catsup, using five pounds goose-
berries with two pounds of sugar.

GOOSEBERRY CHUTNEY

To two full pints of nearly ripe gooseberries allow three-
fourths pound of raisins and three onions. Chop together
and heat slowly with one cup brown sugar, three table-
spoons each of mustard, ginger, and salt, a saltspoon of
red pepper and a little turmeric. Simmer forty minutes
with two pints vinegar, then strain through coarse sieve
and seal in little jars.

‘'GOOSEBERRY CHIPS

Place gooseberries in jars and let them boil in outer
vessel till soft. Remove and to each pound of pulp allow
a half-pound sifted loaf sugar. Place this, well mixed—
about an eighth of an inch thick—in flat dishes; set in
sun and dry, which may require several days. The dried
cakes may be cut in strips and twisted.

\ A CLUSTER OF BERRIES 183

GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR

Let two quarts crushed gooseberries (not fully ripe)
stand forty-eight hours in three quarts water, when press
and strain. Allow a pint of sugar to each gallon and
one tablespoon yeast for fermentation.

GOOSEBERRY WINE

Use fully grown but not thoroughly ripened berries,
removing blossoms and stems and bruising fruit without
crushing seeds or skins. To twenty pounds of berries add
.two gallons rain-water, stirring and mashing fruit until it
is cleared from the skin. Let stand six hours then strain
free of seeds and skins and bring resulting juice to a boil.
Have dissolved fifteen pounds sugar and add this to juice
as it heats. Meantime let seeds and skins be svaking in
a gallon of water. When the sugar and first liquor are at
boiling point add this second quantity, strained. Measure
it all and add sufficient water to bring whole quantity
up to five gallons. Let this ferment in cask, covering bung-
hole with cheesecloth and allowing room for fermentation.
When this has ceased stop the bung and let wine stand
six or seven months before using.

GOOSEBERRY CHAMPAGNE

Take well-filled-out but green berries and top and tail
them. To each three pounds allow one gallon soft water.
Place berries in a large crock or tub with a little of the
water and pound them heavily, mashing thoroughly. Add
the rest of the water then stir briskly. Cover with cloth
and for each of four days succeeding stir well and often.
Then strain off, adding to the clear liquor four pounds of
sugar for each gallon. Also, add to each five gallons one
quart best brandy. Mix and place in a cask, filling lat-.
ter full. Place bung lightly on top—the cask on its side in

184 FRUIT RECIPES

a cool dry place where it will not be shaken in the slightest
degree. Let ferment thoroughly—perhaps three weeks—
then bottle, corking well and placing bottles on sides.
This will be fit to use in eight months and if rightly made
will be very like champagne.

GOOSEBERRY WATER ICE

Squeeze juice from stewed berries unsweetened, or the
very ripe berries, allowing a pound of sugar to each pint.
Mix well and freeze.

The juice from the stewed fruit may be used further,
for custards and creams as well.

CHAPTER XIV
THE LEMON (Citrus limonum: Rutacee)

EMONS are not often enough used as food, drink, or
medicine. There is nothing more wholesome in
natural foods, more effective in toning the system and
purifying the blood (unless for some special reason the acid
is directly prohibited; see note on potash in Introduction)
than this most positive of citrus fruits. It is a special
agent with the liver, acting directly upon it and assisting
with the proper action of the bowels, cooling the blood
and reaching or preventing a long list of ailments which
take their rise in disorders of the liver. It is true that the
liver may be made torpid by the nerves, which affect it
strongly, so that worry, for instance, will partially paralyse
its freedom and cause heavy colds and more serious troubles,
but whether from improper physical or mental diet—from
whatever cause—a clogged liver can make one as miserable,
as discouraged and ill as one can be and live. If too late
to remove the cause the condition should be relieved or
it goes further, being, without doubt, the cause of suicides
from the resulting mentai depression, as well as ‘‘death
from natural causes,” through disordering the functions
of other vital organs of the body. Vividly picturesque
descriptions of the horrors of these various resulting com-
plications may be found in almost any patent medicine
circular, for it is upon the liver that the authors of these
literary gems place the blame for most of the ills to which

flesh is heir.
The public is not so apt to seek or dwell upon written
185 :

186 FRUIT RECIPES

or realised liver-nightmares when lemons are plentifully
and judiciously used. Malaria is one of the ‘‘simple”
and direct results of a rebellious, inactive liver, and one
most commonly known. Typhoid, with its more serious,
complicated aspect, comes under this head, yet physicians
claim that even these germs can be driven out or actually
killed by the plentiful and timely use of lemons. It is,
however, not only the juice which is beneficial sometimes,
the rind being a helpful accessory, as the method of pre-
paring and using it in Roman malarial districts proves,
as does also an old-fashioned remedy for colds. It is
claimed that it wili entirely prevent or cure scurvy and
“in England every foreign-going ship is required by law
to take such a supply of lemon juice that every seaman
shall have a daily allowance of an ounce after having been
ten days at sea’’—Wood & Bache. Asa cooling drink
its refrigerant qualities are proven—especially when used
without sugar, which is heating. Even merely as an ac-
cessory or flavouring it is extremely refreshing in food or
drink and many not commonly known ways of using the
lemon are here presented, as well as others more conven-
tional, as of value in that very common and natural desire
for variety. (It should be remembered that lemon juice,
or any other acid, should never be placed in tin recep-
tacles. Use enamel or porcelain.)

RECIPES
ITALIAN CURE FOR MALARIA

Slice thin one lemon—rind and all—and place in sauce-
pan. Over this pour one and a half pints cold water and cook
down to one-half pint, then strain through coarse cotton
or linen so that part of the tender pulp and rind exude.
Let stand till cool and: drink it fasting. This should be
kept up—continuously—for some days.

THE LEMON 187
BAKED LEMON FOR COLDS

Bake a lemon whole till thoroughly tender and eat it
hot with sugar just before retiring. It is best to do without
the evening meal and to fast otherwise as far as possible.
Also drink much water. This should be taken three nights
in succession.

FLAXSEED LEMONADE

Another old-fashioned and generally effective remedy
for colds is this laxative drink: Pour a quart of boiling
water over a cup of flaxseed. Add juice of two lemons
and sugar to taste. Let steep in covered jug several hours
and drink hot just before retiring. (This may be thinned
if preferred.)

LEMON CORDIAL (Old Recipe)

Steep for twenty-four hours the yellow, rinds (only) of
two dozen lemons in a gallon of French brandy, meantime
having rolled the lemons and squeezed pulp with juice into
four pounds of sugar dissolved in a gallon of water. Strain,
and when the lemon rind is ready to mix add a quart and
a pint of milk at boiling point. Let stand twenty-four
hours, then strain and bottle.

LEMON FOR HOARSENESS

The stiff-beaten white of an egg with the juice of one
lemon and sugar or honey added generously is excellent
in relieving hoarseness. |

LEMON FOR HEADACHE

The juice of a large lemon squeezed into a small cup of
strong, black coffee (no sugar) will often prevent or cure a
headache.

188 FRUIT RECIPES

LEMONS IN DRINKS

When one is forty miles from a lemon, one may still
have ‘‘lemonade” by using citric acid in crystals or pul-
verised, with or without a pure lemon tincture as flavouring.
No ill effects can accrue from using this acid in such trifling
quantity as required to make tart a drink or pudding-sauce.
It cannot completely take the place of the fruit juice, but,
as it is the acid found in and taken from the fruits of the
citrus family, it can be substituted, therefore, if necessary,
in moderation without harm.

TEA WITH LEMON JUICE

This is not a mere fad or ‘‘ foreign fashion’’ without foun-
dation of reason. There is a scientific fact beneath the
surface. Where either lime or lemon juice is used in the
clear tea (with or without sugar) there is little possibility
of harm resulting from the effect of the tea (such as may
be felt when tea, pure and simple, is used) since the citric
acid of the fruit offsets the tannic acid of the tea, rendering
it refreshing and wholesome. (It is perhaps needless to
add that the black, perfectly cured teas should be used; not
the green or mixed teas.)

LEMON “SQUASH” OR SIMPLE LEMONADE

For a good plain lemonade (called ‘‘Lemon Squash”
by our British cousins) use one lemon to one pint of water,
adding very little or no sugar if one wishes the most
cooling effect, as sugar ‘‘evolves heat during oxidation,”
and should be avoided only a degree less than alcohol in
hot weather.

SIMPLE EGG LEMONADE (For One).

Beat the white and yolk of one egg, separately, then
together, and add one tablespoonful of sugar, the juice of
one lemon and a coffee cupful of water, then whip again.

THE LEMON 189

Strain this, pouring it on to a large tablespoonful of shaved
ice; shake up and pour into glass from which it is to be
served.

EGG LEMONADE WITH SHERRY (In Quantity)

Slice thin four lemons, add six dessertspoonfuls of sugar
and pour over this three pints of boiling water. Let
stand several hours, then add one-half pint of sherry.
Strain and add the well-whipped whites of the four eggs and
a pinch of salt. Pack ice around the pitcher and when

chilled serve.
ITALIAN LEMONADE

Slice one dozen lemons, add to them a pound of sugar,
and let stand over night. In the morning strain, add one
pint of sherry and three pints of boiling water. Beat
or shake this well, then add one pint of boiling milk and
strain. Drink hot or cold.

LEMON-ORANGEADE

Use as many oranges as lemons and carbonated, instead
of ‘‘plain,’’ water. Mix the juice with amount of sugar re-
quired some hours before serving, at the last moment,
only, adding the carbonated water. Pineapple juice may
be substituted for the orange, and as an artistic finish, a
graceful touch is the addition of shredded orange, pine-
apple, cherriés, berries, or angelica.

LEMON GINGER BEER

Pour eight quarts of cold water over six thin-sliced
lemons, with one and a half pounds of sugar and a little less
than an ounce of ginger root. Let this come to a boil
before adding one tablespoonful of cream of tartar, then
strain and let stand till cool, when a yeast cake dissolved
or broken into bits should be stirred in and the whole

190 FRUIT RECIPES

allowedtostand overnight. In the morning mix thoroughly
and bottle (corking tight), placing bottles on the side in
cool place. In twelve hours the beer will be ready for use.

LEMON WHEY

Boil together for five minutes a pint each of milk and
water and the juice of two lemons. Strain and add sugar
to taste.

LEMON SYRUP (With Lemons)

The following recipe makes it possible to have real lem-
onade at any time. To each pint of lemon juice add one
pint of water and two and a half pounds of sugar. Add
the grated rind of the lemons used, then place in enamelled
kettle and simmer slowly until thick, when it should be
strained and bottled (hot).

LEMON SYRUP (Without Lemons)

To three pints of water add six pounds of sugar and boil
five minutes. Into this stir the white of one egg beaten
up with half a pint of cold water. When a scum rises (as
it will in a few moments) set the kettle off the fire and let
stand five minutes, when the scum must be removed.
When cool measure and to a gallon of syrup add three
ounces of tartaric acid dissolved in half a pint of hot water.
With this add one teaspoonful of oil of lemon. The latter
must be absolutely sweet and fresh; if the least rancid
the syrup will be spoiled.

LEMON TINCTURE FOR FLAVOURING

Pare the lemons quite thin and cover the shavings of the
yellow rind with good grain-alcohol. Cork tight. When
ready for use the alcohol will be bright yellow. This
should then be poured off into a second bottle from which
_ it is to be used.

THE LEMON 1QI

LEMON SUGAR FOR FLAVOURING (Or “‘Zest”)

Rub lumps of sugar over lemon rind until the oil cells
are broken, when the oil will be absorbed by the sugar.
Place the sugar in an air-tight jar and it will be ready for
dissolving at any time.

LEMON RIND PRESERVE

Save the lemon shells left after squeezing for lemonade,
etc., and drop them into a jar of fresh water, changing the
latter every third day and at this time removing carefully
the drops of oil found floating on the water. These should
be put into a special bottle as they are the pure oil of lemon.
At the end of two weeks scrape out the soft, inside, pulp,
leaving only the rind shell. To the yellow shells sugar
should be added in proportion of pound for pound and
cooked slowly into a thick preserve.

LEMON PRESERVES (With White Pulp)

Boil the entire lemon ‘‘husks”’ (after squeezing from
them the juice for other uses) in fresh water until tender,
then cook in a syrup (previously prepared) made of five
pounds of sugar to a pint of water. Cook until preserves
are thick, clear, and yellow, but not too dark in colour.

LEMON MARMALADE

To six pounds of lemons take nine pounds of sugar.
Peel the lemons, then cover yellow parings with water and
boil until tender. Drain and let cool, then shred fine the
parings. Meantime halve the peeled fruit crosswise and
press out juice and soft pulp. Cover the shells of white
pulp remaining with three pints of cold water and boil
one-half hour. Strain off this liquor and add it to the
juice and soft pulp, with the yellow rinds. Boil all

/

192 FRUIT RECIPES

together ten minutes, then add heated sugar; boil down to
desired consistency and place, while boiling hot, in small
jars or marmalade pots.

LEMON JELLY No. 1 (Without Gelatine)

It is usually considered impossible to make lemon jelly
without gelatine but by the following process the appar-
ently impossible may be achieved. Small quantities are
best managed and most successful in results. Slice four
lemons very thin and cover (in granite kettle) with two
quarts of cold water. Cook down to one-half the quantity
and strain, squeezing skin and pulp as well as juice through
a coarse cheesecloth bag. Cook again and when at boil-
ing point strain a second time but through a fine bag. Re-
turn juice to kettle and after ten minutes’ simmering add
hot sugar in proportion of one heaping pint to one scant
pint of juice. Boil until sugar melts and it jells, which
should require but five or six minutes. The result is a
light tender jelly which will acquire firmness by being set
in the hot sun several days in succession.

A second method is to proceed as above, with the
addition of uncooked “‘pie-melon’’ pulp (half and half
with the lemon in weight), using sugar in proportionate
addition. .

LEMON JELLY No. 2 (With Gelatine)

Soak one box of gelatine (American brands preferably)
in one pint of cold water for an hour, when add one quart
of boiling water and two cups of sugar. Stir until gelatine
is thoroughly dissolved. When cool add the juice of four
lemons and strain through coarse cotton cloth into glasses
or other moulds when partly cool, setting on ice to harden.
This may be more tart than desired; if so add sugar just
at the last. In warm weather if ice is unavailable use but
one pint of hot water.

‘MONS WITH BLOSSOMS

CALIFORNIA LE

ANISH LIME OR GINEP

iS

Diposnbrg WnIzUDLND SnAND aSueso Anos Jo ‘pla ayy sv os[e UMOUY

Gail GONVAO ATILAGS SWOSSOTH HLIM ‘“AONVHO WITIAMS FHL

THE LEMON 193

LEMON HONEY

To the juice of two lemons add one pint of sugar and
one-half pint of water. Cook until thick.

PICKLED LEMONS (Helen Harcourt)

Quarter the lemons, cutting not quite through rind at
base (so that the quarters will remain attached) and place
in each one teaspoon of salt. Put them in the sun or near
stove where they will get a steady but slow, moderate heat.
Leave them until they look black and dried, then place in
the jars in which they are to be sealed. Pour over them
boiling vinegar to which has been added spice to taste,
including a little chopped onion, white mustard seed, gin-
ger, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon. As pickled lemons
will swell to their original size in the vinegar more of the
latter must be added than for the usual pickle. These
should be put up a twelvemonth before using.

SIMPLE LEMON CUSTARD (Without Lemon Juice)

To one quart of boiling milk (in double boiler), add one-
half teaspoon salt, one-half cup sugar, rind of two lemons,
grated, and, last, one heaping tablespoon cornstarch which
has been dissolved in a little cold water or milk. Now
stir in lightly one egg (beaten separately), first the yolk
and then—very lightly indeed—the stiff-whipped white,
and immediately remove from the stove. When cool place
on ice. This is delicate and refreshing and much more
acceptable to many than where the lemon juice is used.

LEMON “CUSTARD” (With Lemon Juice)

To one quart of boiling water add one tablespoon of
butter, one cup of sugar, two heaping teaspoons of corn-
starch (dissolved in cold water), and the grated rind and

194 FRUIT RECIPES

juice of two lemons. Beat three eggs separately and add
the yolks to the above. If the pudding is to be baked it
should be removed at this stage from the fire and poured
into the baking-dish, remaining in the oven until the cus-
tard is set, when a meringue made of the whipped whites
of the eggs and two tablespoonfuls of sugar is to be poured
over the top and browned. The pudding is equally
delicious not baked, however. In this case the whipped
whites should be lightly beaten in on being removed from
the stove and when somewhat cool, poured into a glass
dish and later set on ice. Serve with cream or wine sauce.

EGGLESS LEMON PIE OR PUDDING (A Novelty)

To the juice and grated rind of two lemons add one cup
each of cold water, sugar, and grated, raw, Irish potato.
When used as a pie bake with upper crust only. As a
pudding use no crust but sprinkle with sugar and bits of
butter and when baked serve with cream.

LEMON CHEESE FOR TARTLETS

To the juice and grated rind of two lemons add beaten
yolks of three eggs, one cup of sugar, and a half-cup of butter.
Beat well and cook in double boiler until thick.

LEMON CREAM PIE

Heat to boiling point one cup of water, adding juice and
grated rind of two lemons with one cup of sugar. Stir well
together and add one tablespoon of cornstarch dissolved
in cold water Let this boil up once then remove and cool.
Have the under-crust baked by the time the above is cool,
then add to the mixture the beaten yolks of three eggs,
place the custard in the crust and bake one-half hour. When
done remove from oven, let cool, then place on top a

THE LEMON 195

meringue made of the whipped whites of the eggs and one-
half cup of sugar, and brown in oven.

LEMON RICE PUDDING

To one quart of cold milk add two (small), level table-
spoonfuls of rice, the grated rind of two lemons, and one-half
cup of sugar. Let cookin double boiler until rice grains are
well filled out and tender, then place in baking dish and
bake for an hour, stirring the pudding a number of times
meanwhile (even though a light brown skin forms repeated-
ly) till the last fifteen minutes, when it should be allowed
to brown. Add more sugar if not sweet as desired on plac-
ing in oven. This will be creamy and delicate.

LEMON SAGO AND TAPIOCA

Either tapioca or sago may be used for this with de-
licious results, and the pudding may be made either clear
and tart or creamy and sweet. If the former is preferred
use water instead of milk. To one quart of cold water or
milk add two large tablespoonfuls of tapioca or sago and
soak for an hour, then let come toa boil on moderate fire.
With the water use the juice of two large or three small
lemons with the grated rind of one, and a small cup of
sugar. With the milk substituted use only the grated
tind (no juice). Whenclear, soft, and thick, remove from
fire and beat in lightly the whipped whites of two eggs.
When cool place on ice. It is unnecessary to add the
whites of the eggs but they give a more delicate, feathery
consistency.

LEMON SPONGE
Soak one box of gelatine in one and a half pints of cold

water then place in granite kettle with the grated rind and
juice of three lemons and one cup of sugar. Let boil, pour

196 FRUIT RECIPES

off, andcool. (If the grated rind is not desired except for
flavour the liquor should at this stage be strained.) When
beginning to set add the whipped whites of two eggs and
beat until spongy in appearance (length of time required
differs with temperature). Then heap lightly in the dish
from which it is to be.served or in mould and place on ice.
Should this be made in warm weather when impossible to
procure ice, the whipped whites should not be beaten in
thoroughly but the gelatine allowed to set and the egg-
froth rising to the top should be served with the sponge as
asauce. By placing the bowl containing the gelatine in an
outer vessel of cold water and changing the water about
every half-hour or twenty minutes, the sponge will harden
better.
BOILED LEMON PUDDING

Beat together one-fourth pound of butter, one-half pound
of sugar, the grated rind of two lemons, and two table-
spoons of flour, with a pinch of salt. In a separate basin
stir one-half pound of bread-crumbs, with the juice of
the lemon, and four eggs well beaten (previously), then add
to the prepared batter. Tie securely in a well-dredged
pudding-cloth (leaving room for swelling) and boil three
hours, Serve with hard sauce.

LEMON DUMPLINGS

These dumplings may be made in two ways; by using
a soft, sweet biscuit dough, cutting out as for large bis-
cuits, placing in the centre of each a teaspoonful of lemon
marmalade, and tying in large squares of cotton or linen,
and dropping in boiling water for forty-five minutes (these
may be baked, instead), or by the following recipe: Mix
thoroughly a half-pound of bread, grated, one-fourth pound
each of sugar and suet, the grated rind of two and juice of
one lemon; one grated, tart apple or cup of tart pineapple,

THE LEMON 197

and two tablespoons of flour rubbed smooth in two well-
beaten eggs. Tie in squares of cloth and boil three-fourths
of an hour, putting plate underneath to prevent sticking.
Serve with the following sauce:

LEMON PUDDING SAUCE

One and one-half cups of sugar, one well-beaten egg,
juice and rind of one lemon, and one-fourth pound of butter.
When thoroughly mixed, and pudding about to be served,
add one pint boiling water but do not cook. If not
sufficiently tart add juice of second lemon.

LEMON LOAF CAKE

Beat to a cream one and a half cups of sugar, one-half
cup of butter, adding gradually, the beaten yolks of two
eggs, one cup of sweet milk, grated rind of two lemons, three
and one-half cups of flour, with a pinch of salt and heaping
teaspoonful of baking-powder sifted through the flour,
whipping in at the last of the mixing the stiff-beaten white
of one egg (a half-teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and
cup of raisins may be added sometimes to vary this). To
make the icing place one and a half cups of sugar in a
saucepan with juice of two lemons and grated rind of one.
Boil till it strings from spoon, when pour over the stiff-
whipped white of one egg and beat with fork till icing
begins to stiffen, then spread on top and sides of cake.

LEMON CUSTARD LAYER CAKE

Two cups of sugar, one-half cup of butter, one cup of
milk, three eggs, one and a half teaspoonsof baking-powder,
and three cups of flour. This makes four layers. For
filling take the juice and grated rind of two lemons, one
egg, one cup of sugar and one-half cup of water, one

198 FRUIT RECIPES

teaspoon of butter and two tablespoons of flour mixed
smooth with a little of the water. Boil this together
until it thickens (watching carefully), then place between
layers.
LEMON SNAPS

Beat together one cup of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter,
adding two eggs, one-half teaspoon of soda dissolved in
four tablespoons of hot water, and one tablespoon of lemon
juice with grated rind of two lemons. Add sufficient flour
to roll soft and thin and bake in a quick oven.

LEMON CRACKERS

Two cups of sugar, one each of shortening and milk,
two eggs, grated rind of three lemons, and two ounces of
baking ammonia, with sufficient flour to make a very stiff
dough. Roll thin, cut in squares, and bake.

LEMON SANDWICHES (Mrs. Rorer)

Cut bread in form desired, then place slices in tight box
with lemon peel wrapped close to it and between slices.
Leave for several hours before using then butter and serve.
The butter should also have been prepared with lemon
flavouring by placing lemon rinds generously in the butter
jar or cup, and when ready to spread the juice of one lemon
added for each cup of butter.

LEMON CATSUP

Mix one tablespoon grated horseradish with the grated
rind of four lemons. Add one teaspoon of salt, the juice
of the lemons, a dessertspoon each of white mustard seed
and celery seed, a few blades of mace, four cloves, and a dash
of red pepper. Boil thirty-five minutes, then bottle while
hot. In five or six weeks this will be ready to serve with fish.

THE LEMON 199

MAITRE D’HOTEL SAUCE FOR FISH

With two tablespoons of butter cream in one-half tea-
spoon of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of white pepper, and
a tablespoon each‘of lemon juice and powdered parsley.
Keep very cold till ready to serve with fish.

LEMON ICE

To one quart of water add one pint of sugar and boil five
minutes. Remove from fire and add juice of three large
lemons with one dessertspoon of gelatine dissolved in a
little cold water. Stir well and, when cool, freeze.

LEMON SHERBET

To the syrup given above add juice of three lemons and
one orange. The sugar used in the syrup should have been
treated as for ‘‘Lemon Sugar for Flavouring”’ or flavoured
with a little pure lemonoil. Place in freezerand when half-
frozén add the whipped whites of two eggs, then finish
freezing. The yolks of the eggs may be added with equally
good flavour and make the sherbet more acceptable and
nourishing for invalids.

FROZEN LEMON CUSTARD

Make simple custard (see Introductory Recipes for
“Custard’’) or Lemon Custard, and let. cool. Grate three
lemons, using this or lemon tincture for flavouring. If
the rind is used stir in with the milk before cooking the
custard. If tincture is used add just before freezing.
(The quantity will depend upon the quality and strength
of the flavouring).

LEMON ICE CREAM

Mix the grated rind of two lemons and one orange with
one quart of mixed milk and cream and partially freeze.

200 FRUIT RECIPES

Have ready a syrup made of the juice of two large lemons
and one orange and a pint of sugar. When cool add this
to the partly frozen cream and finish freezing. (More
sugar may be preferred.)

CANDIED LEMON PEEL

See Orange Chips.

CHAPTER XV

THE WILD “SOUR,” OR SEVILLE ORANGE
Citrus aurantium bigaradia: Rutacee

6 ec: is no edible fruit in America which both grows

so abundantly (through the southern—the semi-
tropical portion) and is at the same time so little known or
understood and in consequence so little appreciated
or considered adapted to practical-usage as is the wild or
sour (as it is known in the South), or the Seville orange,
as it is properly termed. And this fact seems the more
strange the further one looks into it, since Americans travel
so extensively and this orange is so highly prized for nu-
merous purposes throughout Europe and the British Isles
(to say nothing of other countries and continents), whether
there grown or merely imported. This may perhaps be
explained by the fact that as a nation Americans are eaters
and drinkers of sweet stuffs and that to be told a fruit is
sour is to consider it uninviting and uninteresting even as
to name: something to “forget.’’ And so, when the use of
the Seville orange is read of (with no special mention of its
acidity) it is not connected with the ‘‘sour’’ orange; it is
already truly forgotten with other disagreeable matters,
and it is taken for granted that the Seville is some variety
of the common, sweet orange. There zs a ‘Sweet Seville,”’
but it is never mentioned by those really familiar with
oranges without the distinguishing adjective, for it is a
mere namesake and all sweet oranges (unless we except the
mandarin-tangerine group, whose history is rather indef-
initely blurred in the hazy mass of ancient Japanese and

201

202 FRUIT RECIPES

Chinese pomology) are parvenues beside the sour or Seville
orange. Even the Oriental varieties just mentioned and the
sweet orange trees which forcenturies have been found grow-
ingon the Himalayas probably came from the sour stock origi-
nally,so evidence and opinion seem to emphatically indicate.

The Moors took this orange to Spain. From just what
particular spot they may first have imported it, it is difficult
to say at this distance of time, but from that period (the be-
ginning of the eighth century, A. D.) until into the fifteenth
century, the sweet orange was not known or cultivated in
Europe while the sour orange was greatly cultivated. The
Greeks and Romans seem to have known nothing of any
variety of orange and so, although biographical sketches
of Adam, Eve, and the Grecian and Roman gods may by
scoffers be classed irreverently as equally and only alle-
gorical,one fact may be depended upon (!) that, as compared
with their first parents, the Europeans were hopelessly
matter-of-fact, since the apple of Paris was literally an
apple, while botanists declare the forbidden fruit of the
Garden to have been undoubtedly an orange or other mem-
ber of the citrus family—whether true or typical. (The
admirers of the chiramoya claim that fruit as Eden’s temp-
tation, but neither this fact nor those people who would
decry the Seville as sufficient to drive anyone from Paradise
need be considered.)

The imported Moorish orange was planted in great num-
ber in and about the city of Seville, singly and in groves,
and immediately so flourished and grew in favour that it
became widely known as the ‘‘Seville” orange and by this
name is still recognised throughout Europe where—in Italy
and other countries, as well as Spain—it is a commercial
crop of importance, whether exported in natural form or
otherwise (the peel, dried or candied, or having undergone
distillation for flavouring or medicinal purposes).

THE WILD “SOUR,” OR SEVILLE ORANGE 203

It is now generally conceded that the Spaniards intro-
duced their adopted fruit into Florida during their earliest
explorations, although the.seed and soil were so eminently
adapted to each other and the fruit of their union was so
prolific that ‘wild orange groves were soon to be found all
over Florida and in consequence some authorities have
declared it must be native to the Gulf'regions. The Bitter-
Sweet (C. aurantium vulgaris) is but a variety of the Seville,
though Manville, in describing it as a ‘‘tree indistinguish-
able from the sour,”’ terms it the ‘‘Native wild orange of
Florida.”’ In flavour this variety is exactly what its name
indicates, both bitter and sweet. Most of the wild orange
groves have been killed in some one of the several descents
to freezing temperature during the last century, or have
been budded to sweet varieties, as the sour stock is gen-
erally immune from foot-rot and has all over the world
proven less susceptible to extreme cold or drought than
the sweet stock.

The Aurantium bigaradia, as the Seville is scientifically
termed, is. smaller than the sweet orange tree, more gen-
erally inclined to be spiny, and its leaves more truly ellip-
tical, though both these points vary. The oil cysts are
concave, the general texture of pulp and rind heavier and
coarser, and the flavour quite distinct from the common
sweet orange. The flowers are similar in form and fra-
grance but susceptible of much variation by cultivation and
Europeans are familiar with varieties of the bigaradia culti-
vated exclusively for their floral beauty, as, the Nosegay
Plant, or le bouquetier of the French, these blossoms grow-
ing at the end of the branches in thick clusters. Other
varieties are the double-flowered bigarade, the myrtle-
flowered and the bizarre bigarades, the last of which has
purplish-white flowers, and fruit which curiously varies
in form and flavour. Throughout the semi-tropical

204 FRUIT RECIPES

portions of North America the original, simple form of the
imported Seville orange trees, blossoming and fruiting, also
offer abundance of beauty to the eye and nostril. But the
average tourist fails to appreciate this ultimately because
of lack of proper introduction, the taking for granted that
this is the sweet orange of common popularity, and the
consequent shock on discovery of its peculiar acidity. This
results in sudden coolness, the dropping of the slight ac-
quaintance, and injury to the wild beauty’s reputation and
standing in society, whereas, were it but known that the
Seville is the proud descendant of the ancient Spanish line
and one of the few remaining tangible traces of the days of
the gallant Spanish explorers, all this would be avoided.
It is particularly a pity that the average Northerner misses
so simple yet so great an intellectual and gastronomic en-
joyment since the season of the Seville is longer than that
of the usual sweet varieties, lasting well into the spring
when sweet oranges are scarce and high in price. In time,
however, the Seville will doubtless come into favour as has
the grape-fruit (or pomelo), through similar experience,
for it was but a few years ago that the pomelo was not
appreciated; there was no demand for the few shipped
north and the remainder, almost without exception, lay
upon the ground until decayed because even in the South
it was supposed that, although exceptional, depraved
palates might be educated to the point of imaginary en-
joyment, the pomelo could not be fit for cookery in any
form and even uncooked, separated from all “rag” and
served with sugar, the result was extremely doubtful.
From the fruit of the Seville much of the citric acid of
commerce was manufactured until quite recent times.
From its flowers most of the Oil of Neroli (one of the bases
of eau de cologne and liqueurs) is made, although the sweet
orange flowers are also used to a limited extent, and the

THE WILD “SOUR,” OR SEVILLE ORANGE 205

oil of bitter oranges is distilled from it. The smallest green
oranges, sour or sweet, are usually saved in Europe as they
drop, and are dried to be sold as “orange berries’ for
various uses,or to be made into Curacoa. The peel is dried
for medicinal purposes, the resultants being employed in
stomachics and general tonics. The flowers, also, are dried
and preserved in Europe, being considered a gentle nerve
stimulant when infused in boiling water (two drachms to
a pint) and a cupful of it taken once in a while throughout
the day. One of the chief uses of both flowers and peel is
to disguise or flavour other less-pleasing medicinal prep-
arations. It is never recommended that the peel of orange
be eaten in its natural form; too much of rind (the Seville’s
particularly) would be apt to affect one unpleasantly from
the strength of its oil. The sour oranges themselves are
shipped in great quantity for making up into the famous
bitter Scotch Marmalade so much in evidence at British
breakfasts, where its tonic qualities are considered to en-
tirely offset any possibility of too much ‘“‘sweet.’’ Orange-
leaf tea (from sweet, sour, or bitter-sweet trees) is much
used all over the southern countries as a preventive or cure
of fevers, even during scourges of ‘‘ Yellow Jack.” Asa
foundation or component of cooling summer drinks nothing
is more delicious than the aromatic, acid juice of the Seville
and it is vastly superior to lemons for ‘‘ Russian tea.’’ Even
the lime cannot outclass it for flavour and it has almost
equal power with the lemon in killing typhoid germs.
For the table it may be halved as is the grape-fruit,
cutting out the centre and dropping therein sugar, letting
stand a few hours, but this should be only at its very
ripest stage. It is an excellent substitute for vinegar or
lemon juice with salads and a general rule may be laid
‘down that the Seville may be used in any way that the
lemon, lime, and sweet orange are employed, allowing for

206 FRUIT RECIPES

varying degrees of acidity. Several individual and dis-
tinctive methods of usage are the following:

RECIPES

SCOTCH ORANGE MARMALADE No. 1

The juice and grated rind of one lemon must be used to
every four pounds of oranges and the juice of two sweet
oranges to every pound of bitter or Seville oranges. Pare
the fruit as thin as possible and cut the peel into very
small strips. Then quarter the oranges, removing seeds,
and place in the preserving kettle with only sufficient water
to cover them. Squeeze with the hand until the heat is too
great, then press with a wooden spoon through a fine sieve.
Add the chipped rind and a pound of sugar to each pint of

eC:
as SCOTCH ORANGE MARMALADE No. 2

To two pints of chopped Seville oranges (pulp, rind, and
juice), add two pounds of yellow honey and cook down to
proper consistency.

WILD ORANGE MARMALADE (Florida Recipe No. 1)

Peel and cut up the oranges and place in fresh water for
twenty-four hours, then in salt water for the same time and
again in fresh water, changing the water several times during
the last twenty-four hours to remove all trace of the bitter
tone. (If the bitterness is liked soak only as long as de-
sired.) Use equal weight of sugar and fruit with only
sufficient water to keep from burning when placed on the
fire. Cook until rind is soft before adding sugar, then cook
down as desired and place in heated jars. Seal.

WILD ORANGE MARMALADE (Florida Recipe No. 2)

Wash and quarter the oranges, then pull off the peel and
soak the latter in brine over night. In the morning place in

THE WILD “SOUR,” OR SEVILLE ORANGE 207

fresh-water and bring to a boil, pouring off the water and
replacing with fresh if still too salt or bitter. Remove white
pulp with a spoon, shred fine or chop the yellow shells re-
maining and cook in preserving kettle. In separate vessels
have the pulp and juice cooking. When peel is tender cook
the two portions in one kettle and when perfectly trans-
lucent add sugar, pound for pound. A few moments only
.. will be necessary to cook to proper consistency after this
preparation. Sweet and sour oranges may be used half
and half.
ORANGE AND LEMON MARMALADE

Take equal parts lemon and Seville and sweet oranges,
proceeding as for Florida Recipe No. 2 with the exception
that the water will not have to be replaced after bringing
to a boil and pouring off the first time.

PRESERVED SEVILLE ORANGE

Peel the yellow rind from the fruit then halve crosswise
and seed. Sprinkle the halves thickly with salt and boil
fruit in soda water for at least fifteen minutes (a heaping
teaspoon of soda to each quart of water). Drain and pour
over the oranges fresh hot water and repeat. If the rind
is not soft boil it until it is. Make a syrup of a pint of
water to a pound of sugar (a pound of sugar for each pound
of fruit) and when thickening well add the fruit, cooking
it till translucent. Remove oranges, place in hot jars, and
when syrup has cooked down till quite thick pour over the
fruit while the syrup is at boiling point, filling jars pretty
full. Seal well.

SEVILLE ORANGE JELLY

Make as for Scotch Orange Marmalade No. 1, omitting
the chipped rind. Boil the juice with the rind of two sweet
oranges and two lemons, removing them when the juice

208 FRUIT RECIPES

has cooked down rather thick, then strain and add sugar as
directed.
SEVILLE ORANGE WINE

For each gallon of juice add two gallons of water, and
three pounds of sugar to each gallon of the resulting liquid.
Let this ferment, covering bung-hole with thin cotton cloth
only. Fermentation will cease in two months or less, when
rack off into another receptacle (preferably a good barrel
each time), stop the bung and keep in a cool place.

ORANGE BRANDY

Place the thin-peeled rind of eight oranges with three-
fourths pint of juice in stone receptacle and pour over this
a half-gallon of best French brandy. Add after four days
a pound and a quarter of sugar and stir up well. Let stand
again, for twenty-four hours, when strain and cork. May
be used in five weeks.

DOMESTIC CURACOA No. 1

Prepare ten oranges as above but do not add juice. The
dried rind will answer if the fresh is not convenient. Cover
for four days with a gallon of brandy, then strain, add three
pounds of sugar, and proceed as above.

DOMESTIC CURACOA No. 2

Take the rind of twelve oranges and pour over them a
gallon of pure whisky. Proceed as above, adding a quarter
to a half-pound more sugar.

PRESERVED ORANGE FLOWERS No. 1

Place alternate layers of orange flowers and salt in jars
and screw on the covers well. There should be at least
one-third the weight of the flowers in salt.

THE WILD “SOUR,” OR SEVILLE ORANGE 209

PRESERVED ORANGE FLOWERS No. 2

Pack the full-blown flowers in a jar, close, but not to
crush them, and when full within a half-inch of the top pour
over them glycerine which has no odour (but not necessarily
chemically pure). This is according to Mr. C. R. Tich-
borne’s successful experiments. (U. S. Dispensatory).

ORANGE FLOWERS CANDIED

The flowers may be placed at once in boiling water or,
as sometimes preferred, soaked in cold water for twenty-
four hours, this poured off and fresh, boiling water sub-
stituted. Let the flowers boil a few minutes, then remove
carefully and lightly pour over them cold water. Drain
and place on cotton or linen cloth, sprinkling over them
twice their weight of powdered sugar. Spread then on ,
platters and let stand in a shady place for ten days or less
that the sugar may be thoroughly absorbed, when place
‘in sun or cool oven or dryer to dry. Pack away with layers
of powdered sugar.

ORANGE FLOWERS PRESERVED IN SYRUP

Catch the blossoms on sheeting and pour over them boil-
ing syrup of rather light consistency. Let stand over night
and next morning bring to a boil, then let stand again twelve
hours. Repeat, then place in jars while hot and seal tight.

Or the flowers may be placed at once in a thick bag, as
for jelly, the syrup poured in with them, and let drip twenty-
four hours, repeating twice. The flowers may be used
separately for flavouring butter or sauces or as above
until the syrup is needed for flavouring, when they may
be strained out and used. The syrup is most delicate
for flavouring hot or cold drinks, desserts, cakes, or
puddings.

210 FRUIT RECIPES

ORANGE FLOWER ICING

Prepare flowers as above, boiling in with the syrup until
the syrup is ready to slightly harden in cold water. Then
whip in with the stiff-beaten white of an egg and spread on
cake or cookies.

ORANGE FLOWER WATER

“Take of Orange Flowers, forty-eight troy ounces; water,
sixteen pints. Mix them and distil eight pints.”—U. S.
Dispensatory.
ORANGE FLOWER ICES

The simple ice, sherbet, cream, or custard may be made
by using the Introductory Recipes for ices and flavouring
with the syrup of Preserved Orange Flowers, or the recipe
for Orange Ice under the Sweet Orange may be used,
as liked, flavoured with Orange Flower Syrup, or Orange
Flower Water.

inom ae . hie 0 3
PEs ras.

“OLD BALDY’’ AND NAVEL ORANGES FROM THE
SAN GABRIEL VALLEY, CAL.

BLOSSOMS OF THE SWEET ORANGE

MORTON CITRANGE

RUSK CITRANGE WILLITS CITRANGE
IN CENTRE, ORDINARY TRIFOLIATE ORANGE

CHAPTER XVI

THE ORANGE (C. aurantium dulcis and C. aurantium
nobilis)

F all the members of the citrus family the common,
sweet orange (C. aurantium dulcis) is undoubt-
edly the most attractive, with its peculiarly delicious
flavour and combination, with this, of pleasing
form and colour. But, although its abundance and
general low price still further bars the way against
any citric rival, it should be more indulged in
than it is since its season is at its height when North-
ern fruits are not bearing, yet when from climatic
conditions the blood is sluggish and requires the free use
of mild fruit acid, and since, while not so powerful in direct
effect as the lemon, lime, or pomelo, it shares all their best
qualities and is, like them, anti-scorbutic and tonic. Eaten
uncooked the orange is most enjoyable and usually gives
the best and most direct results but one may also prepare
and serve it in many ways cooked by which its health-
giving properties may be secured in varying degree..

The C. aurantium nobilis, including the varying forms
of mandarin and tangerine, is seldom used in cookery:
simply because it is usually more expensive and also is so
extremely attractive as a table fruit in its natural form,
convenient and dainty, with the fragrance of rich spiciness
betraying oriental origin. But the mandarin or tangerine
may be used as is the common sweet orange and give
greater variety by the inclusion of its peculiarity of tone.

Both of these types of orange have been generally treated

211

212 FRUIT RECIPES

under the wild orange in the preceding chapter and some
of the recipes given there may be adapted to these sweeter
varieties.

RECIPES

SHERRIED TANGERINE

Cut a slice from across the tops of the tangerines and
remove the pulp with a spoon. From these pieces take
all the coarse fibre, then mix the pulp with sugar and flavour
with sherry. Return the mixture to the shells, chill, and
serve.

ORANGES WITH COCOANUT

Here is a pretty way to vary the usual serving of ‘'Am-
brosia,”’ as the sliced, cocoanut-sprinkled orange is often
termed: Halve the unpeeled fruit, then with a small,
sharp knife remove the pulp from the skins. Place the
pulp in a bowl and mix with fresh cocoanut if possible to
secure it (though the desiccated form, soaked a few moments
in milk may serve the purpose), and sugar, with a dash of
lemon juice. Replace in the shells and serve each half on
a small fruit plate garnished with some form of dainty
leaves.

ORANGE SALADS

For any of the following forms of salad peel the fruit
to the juice-pulp, cutting out core and heavy “rag.’’ With
quite tart fruit serve the oranges sliced on lettuce, tender
cabbage leaves or sorrel, with a simple French dressing,
using wild orange juice instead of vinegar (three table-
spoons of oil to one of acid). Season with salt and
paprika or tabasco.

This dressing may be omitted and the salad varied by
substituting sherry with a little paprika as a finish.

Other forms of salad may be prepared by mixing the

THE ORANGE 213

orange with chopped celery-stalks, apples and nuts, one
or all, or with banana alone (sliced) and serving with
mayonnaise. (See Introductory Recipes.)

ORANGE OMELET

Peel three oranges down to the juice-pulp, then slice in
lengthwise strips until the heavier ‘‘rag’”’ around the core
is reached. Set these slices aside. Make a plain omelet
with three eggs, beating whites and yolks separately.
Add to the yolks one-half cup of orange juice and the
grated rind of one orange, a saltspoon of salt and two
tablespoonfuls of sugar. Beat this in with the stiff-
whipped whites and place in hot buttered omelet pan.
When the omelet is set and browning, place the sliced
orange on top, fold over, and serve at once.

ORANGE FLOWER SOUFFLE

Break in bits in a bowl six macaroons (well flavoured
with almonds) and mix them with a handful of orange
blossoms or buds, pounding them well together. Orange
flower water may be substituted (a large wineglassful).
Also stir in six ounces of powdered sugar. Beat separately
now the whites and yolks of six eggs: Add the smooth
yolks to the other ingredients and last stir in lightly the
stiff whites. Have four ounces of butter heating in the
omelet pan and when beginning to turn brown pour in on
it the “batter.’’ When it begins to colour transfer it to
the soufflé dish (buttered); place in hot oven and bake
about ten minutes; till slightly browned and puffed quite
high. On it sift powdered sugar and serve at once.

ORANGES AND RICE

This may be prepared and served in two different ways:
as a breakfast dish or a dessert. If for the former, cook

214 FRUIT RECIPES

plain boiled rice, using half milk and half water, and add-
ing one-half cup of sugar. Serve with thin-sliced oranges.

As a compote, for dessert, pare the orange to the fruit-
pulp, then halve (across) and cut out the core of each.
Have ready a syrup of sugar and water with a little lemon
juice added, and in this cook the oranges until tender and
clear, but ot until they come to pieces. Place them around
a mound of plain boiled rice and pour the syrup over the
fruit and rice. Serve with cream, whipped or plain, or
a sweet custard sauce.

ORANGE FRITTERS

Make a simple batter (See Introductory Recipes) and in
this dip slices or sections of orange from which all peeling,
and core have been removed. Fry at once in hot fat in a
proper frying kettle and when brown drain, dust with
powdered sugar, and serve.

ORANGE SHORTCAKE

Make a sweet shortcake (see Introductory Recipes)
and after baking, butter it, then pour over it thin-sliced
oranges well sweetened. Serve with cream, whipped or
plain.

ORANGE SUET PUDDING

To two cupsful of stale bread add one pint sweet milk,
one cup fine-chopped suet, three-fourths cup of sugar, two
well-beaten eggs, a saltspoon of salt, one-half teaspoon
baking powder, the juice of one orange and grated rind of
two. Stir together and set aside for twenty minutes in
a covered bowl, then bake in buttered pudding-dish
(tying cloth over top), for three-quarters of an hour. This
may, instead, be boiled, in one mould or in individual, small
ones, tying the cloth over tops securely and boiling—for
the large mould, one hour; for the smaller one, forty
minutes.

THE ORANGE 215

ORANGE MARMALADE PUDDING

Mix together two tablespoonfuls or one glass of orange
marmalade with one heaping tablespoon of flour, the yolks
of three eggs and whites of two, a pinch of salt, and sugar
if necessary (according to sweetness of marmalade). Bake
in a pudding-dish half an hour and when done dot the
top with meringue made from the stiff-beaten white oi the
egg and a half-cup of sugar.

ORANGE SAUCE

Cream together one cup sugar; half-cup butter, and one
cup orange juice.

FILLING FOR ORANGE PIE OR BAKED PUDDING

Pare to the juice-pulp one large orange, halve and core
it and cut into small pieces. Add three-fourths cup
sugar and set aside. In another vessel mix smooth two
tablespoonfuls of cornstarch with three-fourths cup of
sweet milk. Add the zest (see The Lemon) of two
oranges or grated rind,of one, with one tablespoon of butter.
Bring this to a boil (in double cooking-vessel) when add the
yolks of two well-beaten eggs, stir well, and remove at
once frém the fire. Have ready the pastry baked to a
pale brown. Line crust with the sliced orange; pour over
it the custard, and bake a few minutes in a hot oven. When
done place on the top a meringue made of the stiff-beaten
whites of the eggs and a half-cup of sugar, and brown
quickly in the oven.

ORANGE CHEESE CAKES

Same as Lemon Cheese Cakes. Substitute orange in
same proportion.

216 FRUIT RECIPES

ORANGE LOAF CAKE

One cup of sugar; one-half cup butter; three eggs;
one cup of rich milk or light sweet cream; grated rinds of
two oranges and their juice. Through three cups of flour
sift one saltspoon of salt and one teaspoon of baking-
powder. Ice as for Lemon Loaf Cake. This batter may
be used for drop cakes as well.

ORANGE FRUIT CAKE

For three loaves take two cups each of orange marma-
lade and chopped, steamed prunes or raisins (or instead
of two cups of prunes use one cup chopped nuts and one
of currants or raisins or prunes); three-fourths cup of
shortening; one scant cup of sugar; three eggs, four cups
of flour; a teaspoon each of salt and nutmeg; two of
baking-powder, and a half-teaspoon each of cloves and
cinnamon. Bake slowly till quite done. In three indi-
vidual loaves it will require about two hours.

ORANGE LAYER CAKE

Make a simple one-egg cake for the layers and place on
them thin slices of oranges before icing with plain boiled
icing (see Introductory Recipes). On the top of the cake
around the edge, may be placed the sections of the oranges
as a finish to the icing. A custard filling may be substi-
tuted for the icing (See Lemon Custard Cake).

ORANGE MACAROONS

Rub lump sugar on orange rind then roll the sugar and
add sufficient powdered sugar to make in all one-fourth
pound. Have whipped very stiff the whites, then add
yolks of four eggs and beat in the sugar with the strained
juice of the orange and three heaping tablespoons of flour
or more (this must be stiff enough to roll into little balls).

THE ORANGE 217

Dip the hands in cold water to roll the paste. Lay the
balls on buttered paper and bake till done. Try them
well as they will not brown.

ORANGE COOKIES

Make according to directions for Lemon Snaps, sub-
stituting orange.

ORANGE FOOL

Add gradually the juice of three large and very sweet
oranges to eight thoroughly beaten eggs, then whip in a half-
pint of cream, alittle grated nutmeg, and sugar as re-
quired. Place in a double boiler and let thicken but not
boil. When thick pour into a heated glass dish and let
cool. Place on ice and when chilled serve with cream.

ORANGE CUSTARD

Make the same as Simple Lemon Custard No. 1, substi-
tuting orange rind for lemon.

ORANGES WITH CUSTARD (So-called Soufflé )

Peel, halve, core, and slice six oranges, placing a layer
in the bottom of a glass dish. Over this sprinkle sugar
thickly, then repeat process until all the orange has been
used, then let stand for two hours. Make a soft-boiled
custard of the yolks of three eggs beaten into a pint of
boiling milk and stirred gently until the mixture thickens,
not, however, allowing it to boil after adding eggs. Sugar
this to taste and let stand until partially cool, when it
should be poured over the fruit. Beat the whites of eggs
to a stiff froth with a half-cup of sugar and pinch of salt
and pile daintily on top. ;

218 FRUIT RECIPES

ORANGE TAPIOCA OR SAGO

Make a simple, clear tapioca (see Introductory Recipes)
sweetened to taste; add whipped white of one egg and pour
over sliced oranges.

ORANGE RICE PUDDING
Make as for Lemon Rice Pudding.

ORANGE SPONGE
See Lemon Sponge.

ORANGE GELATINE

Make as for Lemon Jelly No. 2, using instead of one quart
of water a pint each of orange juice and water and the
juice of one lemon.

ORANGE ICE

Peel six sweet oranges and steep the rind in a quart of
boiling water for twenty minutes. In another vessel cook
into a syrup the juice of the oranges and of one lemon,
with a pint and a half of sugar and teacup of water. Add
this to the strained liquor from the peel; stir; set aside
and let cool. When cool add the strained juice of the
fruit and freeze. This may be made without the peel,
making a simple, strong orangeade and freezing.

ORANGE SHERBET

Proceed as for Orange Ice until the mixture is half-frozen
then add the whipped whites of two eggs to each quart
of liquid and finish the process.

ORANGE DELIGHT

To the sherbet add grated or shredded pineapple, can-
died cherries, white grapes, nuts chopped fine, fresh-grated

THE ORANGE 219

cocoanut or angelica, mixing as one pleases, and serve
with a spoonful of whipped cream on top of a spoonful of
the sherbet in tall slim glasses.

ORANGE MARMALADE ICE

Thin a pint of marmalade with a cup of boiling water and
add one tablespoon of sugar. Strain or leave the bits of
fruit as they are, cool, and freeze.

FROZEN ORANGES

Pare oranges to the juice-pulp; halve, core, seed, and slice.
To each quart of fruit add one cup of sugar and freeze.

ORANGE ICE CREAM

For each quart of new milk and cream (equal parts)
grate or cut fine the rinds of three oranges, simmering them
in a pint of water till reduced to one-half pint, then strain.
When cool add to the milk and cream. Use one heaping
cup of sugar to each quart of liquid. If preferred, make
the custard given in Introductory Recipes, adding to it
the grated rind of three oranges for each quart of custard.
A half-tablespoon of gelatine dissolved and added just
before freezing gives the effect of a mousse.

ORANGE CHIPS (A Confection)

Peel the yellow rind of oranges in long, thin ‘‘chips’’—and
for each pound of chips weigh and set aside a pound of
sugar. Squeeze and strain the juice from the fryit; place
the sugar with it and let it stand over night. Have the
peel soaking in a separate vessel of fresh water for the same
length of time. Jn the morning bring the peel to a boil
in the water in which it has soaked and let simmer
till very tender. Meantime cook the sugar and juice

220 FRUIT RECIPES

together into a syrup. When the peel is ready drain it
and place in the syrup,boiling gently until the syrup thickens
and becomes hard (like candy) when dropped into cold
water. At this stage lift the chips singly and carefully
from the syrup, placing them on oiled paper on trays, to
drain and dry, setting trays in the sun. In twenty-four
hours remove the strips to fresh paper but leave trays in
the sun until all moisture has evaporated from the peel.
This may take weeks. A fruit-dryer will facilitate matters
if a slow, gentle heat is used. The process will be shorter
for mandarin and tangerine peel.

SWEET ORANGE MARMALADE No. 1

Wash the fruit and with a knife point cut the rind
through to the pulp lengthwise and around (in the middle)
so that the rind may readily be taken off either in halves
or quarters. Put this rind (including yellow and white)
on the stove in a vessel of cold water and let come to a boil,
continuing till the rind is thoroughly tender. Cut then into
fine strips. Meantime have the pulp prepared by halv-
ing, seeding, and removing the heaviest rag at the core,
only then slicing it. Put to boil in separate saucepan and
cook till tender, then set back till rind is soft and clear.
At this stage add the pulp to the rind, measuring, and
stirring in equal measure of heated sugar. It will
take but about twenty minutes to cook down sufficiently
thick after this; then seal.

SWEET ORANGE MARMALADE No. 2

Cook the juice of twenty oranges till it is transparent,
then add five pounds of sugar and the grated or very fine
minced rind of the oranges. Boil until translucent and
very thick, then seal.

Either formula for the marmalade admits of variation

THE ORANGE 221

by the addition of other fruit. When thick and still hot
apple, pear, pieplant, or fig marmalade or the stewed citron-
melon may be added in equal quantity, the two cooked
down together and put up as usual.

SWEET ORANGE PRESERVES

Preserves are sometimes made of the halved fruit, with
the rind. In this case the oranges should be halved and
cored sufficiently to remove seeds and the heaviest rag. It
is sometimes considered necessary to let the fruit remain
in weak brine over night, in the morning draining, placing
in fresh water, bringing to a boil and repeating the process.
At other times the prepared fruit is at once put on in fresh
water and boiled till tender, replacing the water once.
When translucent add equal quantity of hot sugar and
cook till sufficiently thick. Still another form is to re-
move entirely the yellow rind, cooking the halved or
quartered fruit till tender, then adding sugar; or to prepare
as a compote, placing the prepared fruit in hot syrup and
cooking down till ready to seal.

Orange Preserves may be varied as is the marmalade
or by the addition of other citrus fruits, or barberry or
cranberry syrup.

‘

ORANGE JELLY

To five ripe sweet oranges add one tangerine or mandarin,
with rind and pulp of seventh orange. Slice fruit whole,
removing seeds as far as possible. Add one-half pint cold
water and cook until juice and water have simmered down
to one scant half-pint, when strain. Heat again and when
boiling add heaping half-pint of- sugar to each scant half-
pint of juice.

222 FRUIT RECIPES

ORANGE SYRUP

To each pint of sweet, strained, orange juice add one
pound of sugar and a little of the grated peel. The peel
and juice of one lemon may also be added if desired, to
give piquancy. Boil for fifteen minutes, skimming care-
fully as scum rises, and straining when ready to remove.
Bottle and seal tight. This will keep a long time and is
excellent for use in sweet sauces or cold drinks.

CREAM OF ORANGE (Old Recipe)

Chop fine two dozen oranges, peel and all, then.add three
quarts spirits of wine; one-fourth ounce tincture of saffron,
one gill orange-flower-water and six pounds of loaf sugar.
Let stand one month, when filter and bottle.

ORANGEADE

For this and other beverages of orange juice see ‘‘ Lemon-
ade.’
SWEET ORANGE WINE

Methods vary in making orange wine, some wines being
made with equal parts of orange juice and water and some
with.the orange juice alone. In either case three pounds
of sugar should be used to each gallon of the liquid. Let
ferment in a barrel, covering the bung with cloth. When
fermentation ceases (from six to eight weeks) rack off into
another barrel, stop bung, and keep in a cool place.

ORANGE VINEGAR

To orange pulp and juice add water and Florida syrup.
“Mother” will form in a few weeks and strong vinegar
result. (Cover the jar with thin cloth, only, while vinegar
is in the making.)

THE KUMQUAT

One of the most interesting members of the citrus family: the kin kan
of the Japanese. The Chinese gold orange:

S19]SN]9 Ul Y}A013 JO apOUI s}I WO pa[[eo og
«LINdtddvVay;» YO OTANOd AHL qa LIN adVvaD

CHAPTER XVII

THE CITRON, BERGAMOT, LIMEBERRY,
KUMQUAT, AND TRIFOLIATA

HE Citron (C. medica) is the heavy-weight of the whole
Citrus family, although some varieties are no larger
than certain Shaddocks or Pomelos. Readers of recipes
sometimes confuse this, the true Citron, with the Citron
Melon (Pie Melon) which is frequently carelessly mentioned
as ‘the Citron’”’ without the word ‘‘melon” attached,
but it bears not only no relation but merely the slightest,
most superficial resemblance. It is edible (the true
Citron) only when cooked—preserved in some form—
but it then has very great food value. It contains more
protein than most fruits, fresh or dried, and also riches of
carbohydrates and energy.

It is usually candied, or preserved in syrup in bulk
(halves or quarters) and used, chopped, in cakes or puddings,
but may be varied by combination of the preserve or by
the use of the syrup for various purposes.

4

RECIPES

TO DRY WITH SUGAR

’ Citron is useless in its natural state. For keeping for

home use or market it must be dried and this should be

done just before the fruit ‘reaches maturity: while still

green yet well filled out. Quarter it and place in fresh

water a day anda night. Drain and replace water several

times, then boil for forty minutes with a little alum and
223

224 FRUIT RECIPES

handful of citron leaves. Drain from this and boil in a
mild syrup forty minutes longer. At the end of this time
add sugar, pound for pound (with weight of citron itself).
Let this boil five or six minutes, then remove fruit and
cook syrup till thicker. Dip the fruit in it again and boil
as before, and once more repeat the process before placing
the citron in the sun to dry. Fill the hollow sides with
sugar and let fruit remain in the hottest sunshine for as
many days as required to dry thoroughly, filling the
hollows every few days with sugar.

COMMERCIAL CANDIED CITRON (Helen Harcourt)

Cut the fruit into halves or quarters (according to size),
then pack it in cask or tub of brine, having first cleaned
out the pulp, and leave it for a month; then renew the salt
water and let the citron lie in it for four or five months, or
as much longer as you choose; this long process is necessary
to eliminate the bitter principle from the rind, which
otherwise it is not possible to eliminate entirely. Next boil
the fruit in fresh water until a fork will easily pass through
it; it usually takes an hour and a half to reach this point.
Then put it in cold, fresh water, to remain there for at
least twenty-four hours, when it will have turned to that
light green colour which we have learned to associate with
candied citron. The next step is to drain the fruit, place
it in earthen jars, and pour over it hot syrup of white sugar
at 20° sacchrometer; cover it entirely and let it stand
for three weeks, but the syrup must be poured off twice
a week, boiled, skimmed, and more sugar added each
time until the syrup is a little thicker than it was at first
boiling; turn it back over the fruit at boiling point. The
three weeks elapsed, put the citron in a vessel containing
the syrup, with all the sugar it can dissolve; let it boil
for ten minutes; and then for twenty-four hours keep

CITRON, ETC. 225

it near the boiling point without letting it reach it, then boil
again until no more sugar can be taken up. The propor-
tion of sugar taken up is about eighty pounds to one hundred
of the citron rinds. The boiling completed, the rinds are
spread on wire netting and dried, either in the sun, or, which
is a far superior method, in an evaporator.

CITRON IN BRINE

The fruit may be kept in a strong brine as above, in-
definitely, until ready to use it as a table preserve or for
candying.

CITRON PRESERVE

Cut the citron in thin slices and soak in a weak brine
over night, then place on the stove in fresh water and let
come to a boil. Pour off this water and replace with fresh,
repeating if necessary (though it may not be). Have
ready a syrup (as for ices in Introductory Recipes) and
place in this (at boiling point) the sliced fruit, cooking
about three-quarters of an hour. Adding more sugar for
a heavier syrup or cooking longer must depend upon one’s
individual taste. Lemon or orange marmalade or other
citrus fruit or juice may be added if to be put up for future
use. The citron may be preserved in larger pieces by
lengthening this process.

CITRON SYRUP AND ICE

The syrup in which citron has been preserved makes
variety in flavouring sauces for puddings or the puddings
themselves. It may be substituted for orange in gelatine
and for ices, although it is best to use also a little lime or
lemon juice to bring out the citron flavour. When citron
preserves have been made—shaved fine+the fruit may
be used at once for cake or pudding, and the syrup pre-
served alone.

226 FRUIT RECIPES

The true Bergamot (Citrus bergamia) is often
confounded with the Limeberry, also spoken of as
Bergamot, but in reality the Triphasia trifoliata. The
true Bergamot is ‘pear-shaped; pale yellow, with green,
subacid, firm, fragrant pulp, fruit and foliage distinct.”
The famous oil known by the name of bergamot is dis-
tilled from its rind, and formerly citric acid was also ob-
tained from it.

The Triphasia trifoliata, or Limeberry (distinct also
from the Citrus or Limonium trifoliata) is a gooseberry-
like, deep-red or wine-coloured little fruit about a half-
inch in diameter. This and the true Bergamot may be
preserved and treated in general like the orange, with
adaptations. Both are of the Rutacee.

The Kumquat (C. japonica) has greatly come into
favour in America the past few years, but its comparative
scarcity and high price have militated against an
intimate acquaintance with its peculiar fascination
with the general public. Kumquat is a Chinese word of
poetical significance; meaning Gold Orange. The Japan-
ese equivalent is Kin Kan. Its combination of Oriental
spiciness of flavour and fragrance is unique in charm, this,
whether eaten uncooked or prepared otherwise. The
thin skin and suggestion of tartness make it a candidate
for honours in fruit salads in its natural form.

THE KUMQUAT AU NATUREL

The kumquat is an exceedingly pretty adjunct to fancy
dishes of various descriptions or cold drinks. For these
purposes it may be served whole or halved or quartered,
or, for table decorations, with the leaves not removed.
The kumquat may be sliced thin and served in dishes with
whipped cream or a meringue, or in tall slim glasses with
sugar and shaved ice. To add wine to this fruit is rather

CITRON, ETC. 227

an insult. For a salad few fruits give greater piquancy
than shaved or quartered kumquats as an accessory, or
they may form the body of the salad, with a slight addition
of celery, banana, pineapple, cherry, pear, or orange, etc.,
and nuts if one chooses. As a garnish, also, the kumquat
is picturesque.

KUMQUAT PRESERVES

Make a heavy syrup of four pints of sugar to one pint of
water. When thick and boiling drop into it the kumquats
(whole or halved) and boil an hour anda half. (Simmering
will toughen the rinds.) Seal at once on removing from
fire or, for immediate use, when cool, serve with cream.

KUMQUAT JELLY

In proportion to one dozen kumquats, cut in small
pieces, use one half-pint cold water. Simmer down to one-
fourth pint of juice then strain. Re-heat and add a very
scant half pint of sugar. (See also other citrus jellies.)

KUMQUAT JAM OR MARMALADE

The fruit left from jelly may be used, adding no water,
and sugar, pound for pound, with a little lemon juice, or
the fresh, sliced kumquats, may be used, cooked till ten-
der, then sugar added, retaining or not the juice, as liked.
The fruit may be put through a colander or left in the
original slices. Cook down to consistency liked.

CANDIED KUMQUAT

The fruit may be left whole, halved, or quartered, the
form deciding the time of cooking. The kumquats may
be candied as for cherries, or first cooked till tender, then
placed in a thick, ‘boiling syrup, for fifteen minutes,
placed in the sun to dry, and the process continued till

228 FRUIT RECIPES

sufficiently candied, when sugar may be sprinkled over
them before packing away, though this may be omitted.

FROZEN KUMQUATS

Make a syrup as for ices (see Introductory Recipes)
and add to it the sliced kumquats in proportion according
to taste. Let stand till cool, when freeze. Orange, lemon,
or lime juice may be added.

The preserve may be frozen, diluted but slightly as it
comes from the jar, or an ice or ice cream or custard made
with kumquat syrup.

KUMQUAT GELATINE

‘Make as for lemon gelatine, using orange or lime juice
mixed, or kumquat syrup with a little lemon, adding the
sliced fruit.

CHAPTER XVIII

THE POMELO (OR “GRAPE-FRUIT”), LIME
Tangelo and Cuitrange

it is not strange that so many -human beings con-

sider the pomelo the acme of fruit perfection, or
that many who at first disliked and merely ate it to follow
“fashion” should in time have become extremely fond of
it. Years before it had obtained proper recognition
among Americans or before its near relation to the so-
called ‘‘Forbidden Fruit’? was generally known in this
country it was declared by fruit growers who appreciated
it that the pomelo must have been that jewel of the first
garden through which the wise serpent tempted Eve and
Adam. .

The Spaniards introduced the pomelo, like the Seville
orange and the lime, into Florida and, though full recog-
nition of its value came late, it has attained remarkable
development commercially and horticulturally and now,
though for years unsalable in the North, it is the favourite
though the highest-priced of breakfast fruits.

The species Decumana, of the citrus family, includes both
the shaddock and the pomelo, the latter—pomelanus—
having been nicknamed ‘“‘Grape-Fruit’”’ because of the
clustering, grape-like groups in which it grows, but the
two fruits, while of the same species, are yet distinct as to
horticultural race.

The name ‘“‘pomelo’”’ seems to have come direct from the
Dutch ‘‘ pompelmoes,’”’ and that of ‘‘shaddock”’ was taken
from Capt. Shaddock, its godfather, the old sea-captain

229

230 FRUIT RECIPES

who is said to have first conveyed it into the West Indies.
Under the shaddock comes that variety so long known
in Europe as the ‘Forbidden Fruit.”

The world in general has had a mistaken fashion of eat-
ing the pomelo before it is mature and thus many times
has misjudged its flavour. Most varieties do not really
ripen and attain full richness and sweetness until March
at the earliest and from then on, through May and into
June, are at their best.

While the grape-fruit and lime do not contain so great
a percentage of citric acid as does the lemon, yet both have
goodlv share and like all juicy citrus fruits are antiscorbutic,
while in the pomelo there is in addition, though in lesser
degree, the same bitter tonic quality possessed by cinchona.
The grape-fruit should oftener be eaten in its natural state
‘without wine or sugar, either or both of which, though
making it very delicious, perhaps detract from the fullest
value of the pomelo.

The lime (C. hystrix acida) elicits almost equally great
praise from other humans, the acid varieties as the basis
of cooling, wholesome drinks, and the ‘‘Sweet Lime”
the ‘‘ Lima dulcts”’ of Mexico, in some of the more southern
of American countries, as a rival of the sweet orange.

The tangelo, a cross between the tangerine and pomelo,
is the name by which a new group of citrus fruits is called,
a group which so far includes but the Nocatee and the
Sampson tangelo. Its skin is rather thin and readily
removed; its flavour lacking the extreme bitterness,
acidity, and sweetness of its parents, yet pronounced in
individual flavour. With many people it will take the
place of the pomelo as a favourite breakfast fruit, partly
because of its more convenient size.

The citrange is still a newer member of the citrus family
and also a hybrid, this one the result of the crossing of

OTHER CITRUS FRUITS 231

the common orange with the trifoliate orange, the two
varieties thus far in existence (the Rusk and the Willits)
being ‘‘reciprocal hybrids.” The Willits -citrange is more
tart, more nearly resembles the lemon than does the
Rusk, but both varieties are excellent as citrangeade and
for general purposes of cookery may be treated as are the
orange, lemon and grape-fruit, with the necessary adapta-
tions.

The trifoliate orange (C. irtfoliata) is the hardy, dwarf,
Japanese stock formerly so much used for budding on to.
It is thorny and bears a small yellow fruit not over two
inches in diameter which is ornamental and aromatic but
useless, with its bitter, ‘‘gummy” pulp, thick rind and
many seeds, for eating.

RECIPES

GRAPE FRUIT FOR BREAKFAST

At night halve the fruit across, then with thin, sharp’
knife remove upper part of core and seeds. In the hollow
thus made place a tablespoonful of sugar and set in cool
spot till morning. Serve without further preparation,
but with sharp-pointed spoons.

GRAPE FRUIT FOR LUNCHEON

Prepare in same manner as tor ‘Breakfast,’ letting
stand but six hours, however, and on ice, and adding
tablespoonful of sherry to the sugar in each half of the
pomelo. Or the pulp may be entirely removed from the
shell and skin and served in the clean shells with just a
little sugar, or in sherbet glasses or in individual -glass
dishes set in outer cups or bowls containing shaved ice.
If served on the dishes the sections may be left whole; if
in glasses the pulp shredded. There are many ways of

232 FRUIT RECIPES

varying this. Another method more suitable for a dessert
or other than introductory course is the following:

PINK POMELO PYRAMID

Shred from the pulp every vestige of white rag and break
sections into bits not over half an inch in length. Serve
in tall slim glasses with a meringue of stiff-whipped white
of egg and sugar and bits of angelica. A little shaved ice
may be placed with the fruit. The combination of pink,
white, yellow, and pale green gives a pretty effect. Where
the pink pomelos or shaddocks cannot be secured a few
drops of cochineal may be added to the fruit and sugar
and let stand an hour or more, or the cochineal may be
used merely on the bits of ice, or in the meringue.

POMELO WITH GRAPES

A pretty addition is made by filling the core-hollow
first with a little sugar and sherry, then with white grapes
(halved and seeded), or candied cherries, angelica (cut fine),
and shredded pineapple. Where these fruits are combined
the colour effect is charming: the red of the cherries; the
green of the angelica, with the white and yellow.

GRAPE FRUIT AND CLAMS

Place four or five Little-Neck clams in the core-hollow,
pouring over them a sauce made of horseradish, tomato
catsup, salt, and a dash of tabasco, blended to taste.

GRAPE FRUIT COCKTAIL

To four tablespoons of grape-fruit juice add one table-
spoon each of simple sugar-syrup, brandy, and maraschino,
Pour these on to a glassful of shaved ice and when well
mixed place in the glass from which the cocktail is to be

OTHER CITRUS FRUITS 233

served, adding to it a third of a section of fruit pulp from
which every suspicion of white fibre has been removed.

GRAPE FRUIT SALADS

Pomelo may be served in several forms of salad, but in
all cases the pulp must be perfectly shredded from the white
“rag,” as the slightest particle will give a bitter taste.
Serve the fruit on young, crisp lettuce or tender cabbage-
heart with French dressing or mayonnaise. Chopped
celery or nuts (chopped, whole or halved, depending upon
the kind of nut) or some other fruit, as cherries or currants,
make toothsome additions. A little sugar may be sprinkled
over the fruit before adding dressing.

GRAPE FRUIT MARMALADE No. 1

Remove the yellow rind with a sharp knife; place in
brine and boil till soft and translucent. Then drain and
soak in fresh, cold water for two hours, after which scrape
off part of the white pulp and cut in thin slices. Meantime
have the white rag and seeds removed from the fruit-pulp
and place latter with juice in a separate vessel. When
the rind is sufficiently freshened add to it the pulp, with
equal proportion of sugar, and boil thirty minutes or until
it jells.

GRAPE FRUIT MARMALADE No. 2

Peel off the yellow rind and chop or cut in fruit-chopper.
Bring to a boil in rather strong brine, then drain and boil
in fresh water. Should this not be sufficient to remove
bitter taste repeat the process. Meantime pare off the
heaviest white tissue remaining and cut fruit in half.
Remove cores, then slice lengthwise and place in granite
vesssel, bringing to a boil. When the rind is ready add the
fruit to it and cook until rind is translucent and soft. Then
add pound for pound of sugar and cook until thick.

234 FRUIT RECIPES

GENERAL REMARKS ON POMELO MARMALADE

Many people soak the rind in salt and water over night
or longer before bringing to a boil but it seems proven by
experience to be unnecessary trouble. On the other hand
some housekeepers do not soak the rind at all but prefer
to have the whole fruit sliced across, rind and all, removing
only seeds, and then cooking till tender, changing the water
perhaps once. By the latter method a trace of the bitter
principle remains, as with the Seville orange peel, when it
is preferred.

GRAPE FRUIT JELLY

Proceed as for marmalade until fruit is soft and trans-
lucent, then strain off the juice; heat it again to boiling
point; boil down for five minutes or until thick, then add
hot sugar, a pint and a half to each pint of juice. This
should jell within ten minutes.

GRAPE FRUIT JELLY No. 2

Soak rind over night in brine. In morning place in
fresh water, replacing until all bitterness is removed.
Slice the fruit-pulp, after cutting off with sharp knife
the white tissue, and place with rind in jelly kettle. In
proportion to one grape-fruit use one quart of cold water
and cook down to one-third pint of juice. Strain and add
sugar in proportion of a little more than measure for
measure.

GRAPE FRUIT DROPS (A Confection)

Make as for Jelly No. 2, using fruit not yet matured and
when strained adding to the juice twice as much sugar.
Stir until it begins to grain, when drop on _ sheets
of buttered paper. This may be kept in jars for flavouring
or for grape-fruitade.

OTHER CITRUS FRUITS 235

GRAPE FRUIT PRESERVE

Remove outer, yellow rind and most of the white by
peeling very thick. Halve the fruit and with sharp knife
core and seed it. Then slice across and place pulp in granite
vessel with very little water and cook at moderately quick
heat. When at boiling point add three-fourths pint of
sugar to each pint.of fruit pulp and juice, then cook slowly
fifteen minutes. This may be used at the moment as a
luncheon or supper dish or sealed in jars.

GRAPE FRUIT ICE

Make the same as lemon or orange-ice; a rather
strong, sweet, ‘‘grape-fruitade’’ with the pomelos alone.
or adding to each quart the juice of one lemon or two
oranges (or both).

GRAPE FRUIT SHERBET

Take the juice of six pomelos, four cups of sugar, and a
pint of water. Soak a tablespoon of gelatine in part of
the water until dissolved, then bring to a boil with the
water and fruit juice. When cool, freeze partially; add
whipped whites of two eggs and finish freezing.

FROZEN POMELO

Make as for Frozen Oranges, using more sugar and some
orange juice.
GRAPE FRUIT WINE

Make as for Seville Orange Wine.

POMELO SYRUP

This may be made from the pulp of the fruit alone or
with the rind, using about one quart of water to each quart
of sliced fruit (rind and all). If the rind is used the syrup

236 FRUIT RECIPES

will be bitter but will thus contain more of the tonic quality.
The fruit must be simmered and strained, after adding
sugar (about one pint to each quart of liquid). This may
be used with shaved ice for summer drinks or with
gelatine, etc.

POMELO AND LIMEADE

Use these fruit juices separately or in combination, add-
ing carbonated water and sugar as liked.

POMELO RINDS IN BRINE FOR PRESERVING

Always keep these for future use. Place in brine as for
lemon rinds. See the Lemon.

POMELO STRIPS CANDIED

The rind of the pomelo has a most attractive and dis-
tinctive flavour when candied. First cut and place in
salt and fresh water till sufficient of the bitterness is with-
drawn (not all of it), then proceed as for Orange Chips.

THE LIME

LIME JUICE FRESH AND IN SYRUP

Fresh lime juice with water alone is preferred by many
people to that of any other citrus fruit. It is thirst-
quenching and a mild tonic. When a dash of calisaya is
added the tonic effect is of course more pronounced. Lime
juice may be added to lemonade or orangeade with a most
pleasant aromatic effect (see the Lemon). To preserve
the juice of fresh limes unsweetened, care must be used.
Squeeze the limes and heat the juice to 150° F.; neither
below this nor above 160°, or the flavour will be ruined.
Filter while hot through some standard filtering medium
and it should keep in good condition a year. The juice may
also be preserved with sugar as for lemon andorange syrups.

OTHER CITRUS FRUITS 237

LIME ICE AND SHERBET

Make as for lemon and orange, being careful to sweeten
sufficiently.
LIME ZEST FOR TEA

Lump sugar rubbed on limes until the oil cells are broken
gives a dainty flavour to a cup of tea. The sugar may be
thus prepared and kept in jars till needed, as with lemons
and oranges.

PICKLED LIMES (A Dutch Recipe)

After the fruit is thoroughly washed place it in pickle-
crocks covered with brine. Place a weight on top and let
stand. After four days they will be ready to use. Take
out as needed, only. (Also, see Pickled Lemons.)

PRESERVED LIMES

Place the limes in boiling water and keep them cooking
at this temperature until tender enough to pierce readily,
when place in fresh water and let just come to boiling
point. Have ready a syrup made as for ices (see Intro-
ductory Recipes) and when the limes are ready dash cold
water over them and drain on a cloth, laying another over
them. Then place in the boiling syrup and cook gently for
twenty minutes when remove and let fruit stand in the
syrup over night. Heat next day, letting boil and stand
(in syrup) an hour several times after repeating the boiling.
Then remove limes from the syrup to heated jars and after
cooking down the syrup till quite thick (add more sugar
if necessary) pour over the fruit and seal.

CHAPTER XIX

THE PINEAPPLE (Ananas ananas: Nat. Ord.
Bromeliacee)

UTSIDE of the citrus fruits none is to be found which
is more entirely beneficial to the human system,
more simple and direct in wholesome effect than the pine-
apple when in perfect condition: not the stunted, woody
specimens too often sold as pineapple. It has not so much
nutritive value as some other fruits but is rich in mineral
salts and these, with the water which forms so large a per-
centage of pine-pulp, and the fruit-sugar, purify the system
and soothe the stomach. The active principle of the fruit,
ananasine, may be very properly considered a vegetable
counterpart of the gastric juice since, as discovered by
Sefior V. Marcano, the juice of the ordinary pineapple
possesses the ‘‘power of digesting proteid vegetable and
animal substances.’’ Chittenden, who, with others, fol-
lowed up the investigations, found, in addition, that this
digestant is active with “either acids “or alkaline
carbonates’’ and that ‘‘the ferment, to which the name
“‘bromelin’ has been given, is more nearly related to trypsin
than to pepsin.” The simple fact that pineapple juice will,
for instance, digest beef, is very interesting to even the
simplest understanding.

The juice is extremely healing in catarrhal affections:
and physicians recommend its use as a gargle for ordinary
sore throats and even for diphtheria. For the greatest
benefit to be secured the pineapple is of course best in sim-
plest form, uncooked, but when eaten as often as fruit

238

THE PINEAPPLE 239

should be eaten, sameness sometimes palls with even the
most delicious of foods and of this there is no necessity as
there are many tempting ways of preparing and serving
the pineapple.

TO PROPERLY PARE AND THUS PREPARE

An almost invariable mistake is made by Northerners in
the peeling of this fruit whole and the attempt to remove
the eyes with the peel. The pineapple should first be
sliced across, rind and all, according to the thickness de-
sired, then each slice taken in turn, in the left hand, held
with the rind toward one and pared with the right hand by
means of a slim, sharp knife, inserting point and peeling
downward, toward one, close to the rind. The eyes may
now (left exposed without the hard skin) be easily and
quickly removed with none of the usual awkward hacking
and loss of juice attendant upon the ordinary method.

AS A SIMPLE BREAKFAST OR LUNCHEON DISH

Serve the pineapple in either the simple slices, one for
each fruit-plate, with or without sugar, as the pine may
require, or as follows: Take a fully mature, juicy, small,
unpeeled pine, cut off the stem and twist off the top or crown.
In the pitted space now exposed drive two slender but stout
wooden skewers straight down through the apple until the
points appear at the stem end. Pull the skewers through
the pine, outward, thus dividing it in half, and then again
divide, so that the fruit lies in quarters. This can be done
with little loss of juice. Now tie the quarters together
with a narrow ribbon, re-insert the crown and place up-
right on the fruit dish from which it is to be served. Serve
by untying the ribbon and placing the quarters on fruit
plates. The ordinary small, sharp, silver fruit-knife will
dismember the tiny sections of rind so that these little

ee (1

PINEAPPLES RAISED UNDER PROTECTION OF
SLATTED SHEDS

Method by which the highest-grade “pines” are grown

THE PINEAPPLE’ 241

still quite moist sprinkle on top of one-half the omelet a
cupful of grated or chopped pineapple (fresh or canned),
fold over and serve at once, sprinkling sugar on top.

PINEAPPLE SOUFFLE

This may be made by adapting to Introductory Recipe

for Soufflés.
PINEAPPLE MUFFINS

To two well-beaten eggs add gradually one teacup of
sweet milk and one-third cup. of melted butter. Thicken
this with one (sifted) quart of flour in which has been mixed
three teaspoons of baking-powder, a heaping tablespoon of
sugar, and teaspoon of salt. When thoroughly beaten add
one cup of grated pineapple and bake until quite done
(which will be in about half an hour) in hot, greased muffin-
rings. Fuill the muffin rings a little more than half full.

PINEAPPLE FRITTERS

See Apple Fritters. If the chopped fruit is preferred use
one cupful to the quantity of batter given.

PINEAPPLE CAKE

Beat together one and one-half cups sugar, and one-half
cup butter. When creamy add one cup of sweet milk and
two and a half cups of flour through which has been sifted
one teaspoon of baking powder and a saltspoon of salt.
Flavour with a few drops of almond and vanilla. Lastly
beat in lightly the whites of four well-whipped eggs and
bake in one loaf. Do not ice till cake is cold. For icing
the top and sides soak one-third box gelatine in a little
water, then beat till quite dissolved. In a separate bowl
whip well the whites of two eggs, adding to them when stiff,
one-half cup sugar, the dissolved gelatine, and two cups

as “FRUIT RECIPES

grated pineapple. Stand in a cold place for half a day
before serving.

Or a more simple batter may be made and baked in layers,
the filling to be made of one pint whipped cream and one
cup grated pineapple sweetened to taste.

PINEAPPLE AND TAPIOCA PUDDING

To a half-cup of tapioca, prepared with a quart of milk
or water (see Introductory Recipes) allow one pint of diced
or grated pineapple, pouring it in when the pudding has
partly cooled.

PINEAPPLE PUDDING OR PIE FILLING

Slice, pare, and chop a pineapple, which if not thoroughly
tender and sweet should stand an hour with sugar liberally
sprinkled over it. Arrange in a buttered pudding-dish
slices of bread, over which pour the juice from the apple
and sugar. Beat the yolks of three eggs with half a cup of
sugar, adding last the whites, which should have been beaten
separately. (A tablespoon of white wine and half a cup of
chopped almonds will improve this.) Pour over the juice-
soaked slices and bake. The pudding minus the bread may
be used as pie-filling.

COMPOTE OF PINEAPPLE

Dissolve one-half box of gelatine in one-half cup of water.
Make a syrup of one cup of water and one-half cup of sugar
in which, while hot, mix thoroughly one (whole) shredded
pineapple. When at boiling point remove and when slightly
cooler add the gelatine, pour into mould, cool, then place
on ice.

PINEAPPLE SPONGE

Grate one small pine (or use one-half pint can of preserved
fruit), add two-thirds cup of sugar and one-half cup of

THE PINEAPPLE 243

water; place on stove and let simmer: Meantime have
ready one-half package of gelatine which should have been
dissolving for half an hour in one cup of water. When
the pine has simmered for ten minutes\add the gelatine;
strain into a mould and let cool for half an hour. Now add
the stiff-beaten whites of three eggs and a little lemon
juite; place mould in outer dish ofice-water and beat the
mixture until it thickens somewhat, when set on ice to
harden.

It should be remembered that when gelatine is used with
pineapple the resulting concoction must be chilled as soon
as possible and used not later than two hours after making
on account of the chemical action of the peculiar elements of
this fruit on the gelatine.

A variation of the above is found in the recipe below.

PINEAPPLE MOUSSE

Place in a saucepan with one cup gtated pineapple, half
a cup of sugar, one-fourth cup of water, and simmer for five
minutes. Add juice of half a lemon; take from fire; cool,
stir in one cup of whipped cream or one-fourth cup gelatine
(dissolved in one-fourth cup of water), pack the mould
round about with ice, and let stand two hours.

PINEAPPLE ICE

For one can grated pineapple or one pint fresh fruit use
one pint each of sugar and water and juice of one lemon.
Mix and freeze. Or see Introductory Recipes.

PINEAPPLE SHERBET

See Introductory Recipes or use the following: To
one quart of boiling water add one and one-fourth
pounds of sugar and juice of two lemons. Cook this for
five minutes. Take from the fire and add two large

244 FRUIT RECIPES

pineapples grated, or one quart can of grated pineapple.
Strain through a cloth, pressing hard to get out all the juice.
Then freeze partially, when add beaten whites of two eggs
and complete the freezing.

PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM

Make as in Introductory Recipes and let cool. Meantime
have ready grated pineapple—one pint to each quart of
cream and milk. Let it stand in alittle sugar and lemon or
orange juice. Partially freeze the cream before adding
fruit, then ,stir it in and finish the process. The reserved
pineapple syrup may be substituted for the fruit. In this
case a little dissolved gelatine may be used.

FROZEN PINEAPPLE CUSTARD

Add to a quart of milk a tea-cup of sugar and bring to a
boil. Add four well-beaten eggs and let the mixture
thicken, watching carefully, however, that the mixture does
not again boil. Let this cool, then add one pint of pineapple
juice or one pint of grated pineapple and freeze. A little
lemon juice added will bring out the fruit flavour.

4

FROZEN PINEAPPLE

Grate or chop fine one quart of pineapple, adding sugar
in proportion of one cup to one quart of fruit, if tart; if
sweet, less. Or, the grated pineapple may have syrup added
to it instead of the sugar. The white of egg or other fruits
make variation, also.

PINEAPPLE JELLY No. x

Dissolve one package of gelatine in a pint of cold water,
gradually heating it through on the stove. When at boiling
point add one cup of sugar and take off to cool. When the

THE PINEAPPLE 245

gelatine is beginning to harden beat into it the juice of one
pineapple and a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and place on
ice to harden.

PINEAPPLE JELLY (WITHOUT GELATINE) No. 2

Wash thoroughly one pineapple, cut off stem and crown
and slice in thick slices unpeeled, then cut across. With
this slice in thinly two lemons, including rind, and simmer,
with one pint of water, for several hours. Strain and
squeeze through jelly bag, and place again on stove. When
at boiling point strain again into another pan, bring to
boiling point and add sugar, pint for pint. Cook about
ten mitiutes, when it will jell. Pineapple makes up into
everything in the way of marmalade, and preserves, how-
ever, a little more satisfactorily than in the pure jelly form
(without gelatine), as its juice is inclined to be sticky and
rich rather than sharp and firm.

PINEAPPLE MARMALADE

Use perfectly ripe, sweet pines, slice and pare, then cut.
into small pieces. Allow three-fourths pound of sugar to
each pound of fruit, mix in granite or porcelain bowl, and
let stand over night in cool place (preferably on ice). In
the morning remove from ice and cook gently for an hour.
At the end of this time press through a fruit-crusher or
coarse sieve with potato masher. Replace on stove and
cook half an hour longer, until clear and golden in colour
and it curls stiffly and gently when finger is thrust through
it, then place in little pots.

PINEAPPLE JAM

Grate the fruit and place in preserving kettle with sugar,
pound for pound. Let heat gradually for twenty minutes
then simmer for nearly an hour. Less time may be sufficient

246 FRUIT RECIPES

as much depends upon quality of fruit. If extremely
juicy some of the liquor should be strained from the fruit
before cooking.

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE (Sliced and Cooked)

Cut in slices, then pare the fruit, placing alternate
layers of pineapple and sugar (pound for pound) in pre-
serving kettle. To each pound of fruit add one-half cup
of water, pouring this in after fruit is placed with sugar.
Heat to boiling point, then take out the slices and spread
in the sun on dishes. Meantime gently boil the syrup for
forty minutes. At the end of this time place pineapple
again in kettle and cook all together for twenty minutes.
Then remove the fruit, placing it in jars and pouring on it
the boiling syrup. Seal at once.

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE (Uncooked and Grated)

In the North, where the climate is less trying to preserved
fruits than in the extreme South, pineapple may be grated
and preserved uncooked for culinary or medicinal use.
Use one pound of sugar to each pound of grated fruit and
let stand twelve hours in covered jar in a cold place, if
possible, on ice. Then place in jars which (with tops and
bands) have been thoroughly sterilised. As an additional
safeguard the tops may be dipped in sealing wax or par-
affine.

CANNED PINEAPPLE (Without Sugar)

Slice, pare, and heat thoroughly the ripe pineapples to
be canned. When boiling remove and place immediately
in sealed jars.

CANNED PINEAPPLE (With Sugar)
Use three-fourths pound of sugar to each pound of

shredded fruit and to each pint of sugar one teacup of
water. Heat through and when boiling, can.

THE PINEAPPLE 247

PINEAPPLE CHIPS

The pines should be sliced thin and pared, placed on dishes,
and covered thickly with powdered sugar. For ten days
these dishes must be kept in a slow oven or other heated
place, and the slices turned each day. At the expiration
of this time place the slices in a quick oven for just ten
minutes, then remove, cool, and place between layers of
paper with powdered sugar sifted over the fruit.

PINEAPPLEADE

Boil the parings of pineapple (or with the chopped fruit),
and allow the liquid to cool. Add juice of lemon or limes
and sweeten to taste.

PINEAPPLE, LEMON OR LIMEADE

For each glass to be served take one tablespoon each of
pineapple and lemon or lime juice; and a half-teaspoon
of grated orange-peel. Sugar to taste. Fill up the glass
with hot or iced water.

PINEAPPLE SYRUP

Slice, pare, and dice three pounds of pineapple. Place
in preserving kettle, add one quart of water and one
pound of sugar. Cook till very soft, when the fruit should
be mashed and strained. Replace in kettle and to each
pint of juice add one pound of sugar and cook to a rich
syrup. Bottle when hot and cork tightly and it will be
ready for use at any time for sauces or drinks.

PINEAPPLE PUNCH

Grate one fresh pine or use a quart can of the preserved,
grated apple, or chop fine one can of the sliced pineapple.
Add to this at least one quart syrup from any preferred
fruit, preserved or fresh (as canned raspberries, cherries,

248 FRUIT RECIPES

fresh strawberries, or oranges, etc.), also a half dozen each
of lemons and oranges, unless the latter have been used with
the pineapple, when substitute lime or grape-fruit in suf-
ficient proportion. The citrus fruit juice prepared, may
be squeezed out and the pulp allowed to remain in the
fruit or may be sliced across very thin. Over this pour
a hot syrup made as for ices (see Introductory Recipes)
and let stand about three hours when strain and add a
half gallon of ice water and shaved ice. (The preserved
fruit added need not be strained out or, if preferred,
fresh, diced, or sliced fruit may be substituted.)

PINEAPPLE CHAMPAGNE

For this the parings alone may be used or in conjunction
with the chopped fruit, allowing to and pouring over the
parings of one small pine a pint of boiling water. After
letting it steep till cold sweeten to taste, then strain and
bottle, fastening corks very tight. If kept in warm place
(bottles on the side) it should be ready in twenty-four
hours. When ripe cool the bottles in ice water.

PINEAPPLE BEER

This, while similar, is more simple than the “‘ champagne.”
The parings must stand in a covered crock for three days—
covered with cold water and sweetened to taste. At the
end of this time the beer is ready to strain and use.

PINEAPPLE VINEGAR

Pineapple parings should never be thrown away as there
is no finer vinegar in the world in flavour and colour than
that made from pineapples. The fruit parings (fruit may
also be added) should be placed in crocks and covered with
water, sugar or syrup being added in quantity according to

THE PINEAPPLE 249

the condition of the fruit, and allowed to ferment thor-
oughly. When this has been accomplished—watched and
skimmed meantime—-the vinegar must be strained from
the fruit and placed in jars or bottles.

CHAPTER XX
THE BANANA, (Musa, Nat. Ord. Musacee)

ERHAPS no form of plant-life, with the exception of
the palm, is more typically tropical in appearance
than the Musa (including both plantain and banana);
none is more widely cultivated through the variations of
the warmer climates, and nothing has ever been found in
the vegetable kingdom which could with such entire satis-
faction or in so wholesale a manner take its place in the
countries where it grows. The names of the plantain
(‘‘type of the species’), M. paradisiaca, and a variety of
it, M..sapientum, or ‘‘horse banana,” indicate the esteem
in which this fruit-food is held—its honour ‘in its own
country.”” The former was so called by the early oriental
Christians, it is said, who, venturing boldly to differ from
those idealists mentioned in connection with other fruits,
betrayed a certain materialistic tendency in imagining
the banana to have been the cause of the dissension in the
original garden. If it was there was indeed irony in the
wisdom of the serpent’s choice (or must we credit him
with kindly foresight?), as the plantain provides not only
food and drink for man and beast but shelter, since the
large leaves make an excellent thatch, and also, we are
told, readily furnish ‘‘table covers and parasols!’’ ‘‘Sap-
ientum” means ‘‘of the wise men,” in allusion to the choice
of the banana as food by the wise men of India—this ac-
cording to Theophrastus.
The banana is certainly, with many hot-country
peoples, the ‘‘staff of life.’’ It is perhaps the best of all

250

THE BANANA 251

starch-foods and healthful when eaten with an under-
standing of the fruit’s very substantial and sustaining
nature. From its composition and wholesome qualities
a likenessis directly traceable to wheat bread. The nourish-
ment to be derived from the banana is very great and it
has been stated that ‘‘one pound of bananas is equal to
three pounds of meat in nutriment,’’ which, however,
should be considered conditionally or ‘relatively. Lean
beef, for instance, contains chiefly protein (no carbohy-
drates) while bananas are essentially a starchy food, con-
taining an exceedingly small per cent. of protein and made
up almost entirely of the carbohydrates.

With children the banana should be cut intg bits or
mashed, not merely because of the danger of choking on
the larger, solid, slippery pieces so often mistakenly given
them, but because, as with adults, it is usually not suf-
ficiently masticated, gives trouble in the process of dis-
integration and so is considered indigestible: the difficulty
being plainly with the people and not with the banana.
(The M. Cavendishi, or Cavendish, and M. Orientum, or
Hart’s Choice, or Lady Finger, are the most delicate for
eating uncooked). —

The luxuriance of the banana plant is typified in the
long and broad rich leaves of soft, satiny texture, (though
firm and somewhat velvety in the earlier stages}. But
these elongated, vegetable, elephant’s ears soon have their
smooth surface disturbed, for the wind, brushing their
helpless delicate weight, quickly tears them into fine-frayed
ribbons. These, when first unfolding, have their tender,
pea-green breadths cut up for cooking like vegetables
among some of the tropical peoples.

The banana blossom is one of the most beautiful creations
of nature. It consists of fold after fold of close-sheathed,
shell-like leaves, under each of which a circle of embryo

282 FRUIT RECIPES

bananas lies. These leaves, the lining of which is of a
deep, delicate maroon, and the outside of dusty, silvery-
gray richness, rise slowly up and back as the little bananas
grow, protecting. them from too great degree of sun or
dampness, finally curling and withering as the stem lengthens
and the bananas, filling out gradually, need no longer their
care. :

RECIPES

ot ICED BANANA SOUP
Mash four bananas; pass them through a sieve; measure,
then add twice this quantity of cold milk, sugar to taste,
a pinch of salt, and the grated rind of an orange. Place on
stove and when at boiling point add two teaspoons of corn-
statch. Cook five minutes; remove and cool, then place
on ice. Serve in bouillon bowls, adding to each a few

creme de menthe or maraschino cherries.

BANANA SALAD

Batnianas may be sliced, diced or crushed, to be served
with fine-sliced orange, or diced apple and nuts, on the
tenderest lettuce. Pineapple or cherries may be added.
Use the cream or liqueur-flavoured dressings given in
Introductory Recipes.

BANANA OMELET

Beat three eggs separately, adding whites last, with a
half-cup of sugar and breadcrumbs, a pinch of salt, and the
pulp of three bananas. Into this stir the stiff whites and
cook in omelet pan.

BAKED BANANAS

The banana may be baked whole, one side of the skin
being stripped back in this case, or it may be peeled and

THE BANANA 253

cut in halves or quarters. The fruit should be placed in
a baking-pan sprinkled with cinnamon, a half-cup of sugar,
a pinch of salt, and tiny bits of butter. Pour into the pan
a half-cup of water and baste frequently while baking in a
quick oven. Lemon juice may be substituted for cinna-
mon, making it into a syrup before baking, then pouring
over the fruit when placed in oven. Applesmay be baked
with the peeled bananas, with delicious results, adding a
dash of lemon juice.

FRIED BANANAS

Peel and split bananas; dip each half into well-beaten
egg, then into fine bread crumbs just before frying in

hot oil.
STEWED BANANAS

Peel six bananas which are not too ripe; cut in half
crosswise and place in a saucepan with three-fourths pint
of claret, two tablespoons of sugar, and a tablespoon of
lemon juice. Simmer for half an hour, then set off to cool;
place on ice and serve with whipped cream, Apples or
other fruit may be added.

BANANAS WITH RICE

Bananas stewed or baked may be served with rice
sweetened or plain boiled, the rice heaped in the centre
with a border of the fruit.

BANANA FRITTERS (In Halves)

Let bananas stand for an hour in a deep dish with lemon
juice and sugar sprinkled over them, also the grated rind
of an orange if convenient. Then cut bananas in half and
dip each piece in batter (see Fritter Batter; Introductory
Recipes). When brown drain and serve with sugar (pow-
dered) sprinkled over them.

254 FRUIT RECIPES

BANANA FRITTERS (Crushed) OR PANCAKES

Crush pulp of six bananas and to this add the beaten yolks
of two eggs, a little salt, a tablespoon each of butter and
sugar, ofie and a half cups of flour, and small teaspoon of
baking-powder. Add beaten whites of eggs last and drop
from spoon into frying kettle. Serve as above. For
pancakes make a thinner batter, putting fruit through
sieve and cook as for the regular pancake.

BANANA PIE

Mash or grate a banana, add yolks o. three eggs, two
tablespoons of sugar and three-fourths pint of milk in
which has been dissolved a tablespoon of cornstarch. Let
cook in double-boiler till thick, then place in a pastry-
shell just baked. Spread over the top a meringue made
with the whites of the eggs and half-cup of sugar; set in
the oven and let brown before serving.

BANANA CUP CAKE

One cup of sugar, three of flour, one and a fourth cups
of banana pulp, and two teaspoons of baking-powder.
Grate orange or lemon peel over the top and bake.

BANANA AND NUT LOAF (For Tea Cake or Pudding)

To one cup crushed banana pulp add one cup each of
chopped nuts, grated cocoanut, oatflakes and cracker
or breadcrumbs, and one-half cup sugar. Into this sprinkle
two teaspoons eachof butter and baking-powder, one of salt,
and sufficient flour to bind together in thick batter. Bake
in moderate oven forty-five minutes.

BANANA LAYER CAKE

Any simple cake batter may be used for the body of the
cake (see Introductory Recipes). The filling may be
made in any of these ways:

THE BANANA 255

No. 1. Spread sliced bananas over the layers and on
the banana place lemon or apple jelly.

No. 2. Instead of the jelly substitute a plain icing.

No. 3. Substitute whipped cream for the jelly.

No. 4. The pulp of six bananas may be beaten up with
a pint of whipped cream or the stiff-whipped whites of two
or three eggs and a little sugar. The cream or egg may
also be used on top of the cakes.

BANANA NUT STRIPS

To two cups of mashed banana pulp add one cup each of
oatflakes, flour, chopped nuts, and sugar with a half-cup of
shortening and saltspoon of salt (or more). Roll out a
quarter of an inch thick and cut in strips. Baké in brisk
oven.

BANANA SHORTCAKE

Between the layers of a simple but sweetened biscuit-
dough pour, just before serving, the crushed pulp of six
bananas into which has been stirred juice of one orange
(or other slightly tart fruit), half a cup of sugar and the
whipped white of an egg or cup of whipped cream.

THE SIMPLEST BANANA DESSERT

To eight sliced bananas add one cup of sugar, the juice
of one lemon, and serve with shaved ice in tall glasses or
dainty dishes, adding a teaspoonful of whipped cream
or white of egg to top off each one. A little white wine
may be added if desired, or a sprinkling of chopped nuts.

BANANA BLANC MANGE

‘To one quart boiling milk add one-half cup of sugar,
a pinch of salt, and three tablespoons of cornstarch dissolved
in one-half cup of cold water. When it thickens stir in

256 FRUIT RECIPES

the pulp of three large bananas and the stiff-beaten white
of anegg. Set away to cool ina mould. Serve with thin
custard sauce.

WHIPPED BANANAS

To the pulp of five bananas add the juice of two oranges,
the grated rind of one, a tablespoon of sugar, a pinch of
salt, and one-fourth box gelatine dissolved in a little
cold water. Chopped nuts or candied cherries may
be stirred carefully in. When cooled on ice beat in lightly
a piht of whipped cream or whites of two eggs and place
in mould.

LITTLE SOUFFLES

Stir juice of two lemons or other tart fruit into the mashed
pulp of six bananas and rub through sieve. Add one pint
whipped cream, or whipped white of egg and cream mixed,
and bake briskly, serving at once, ot freeze as ice cream.
Raspberry or other flavouring may-be added if liked.

BANANA TOAST

Lay slices of banana between thin bread, buttered, in
baking-pan and place in hot oven till lightly browned.
Serve immediately. Or make Banana Pudding Sauce
with one pint milk, tablespoon each butter, cornstarch
and sugar, pinch of salt, and pulp of four bananas stirred
in just before serving, when pour the whole over slices of
thin, crisp toast.

BANANA PUDDING

Mash six bananas and-add otte tablespoon cornstarch
rubbed smooth in half a cup of cold milk. Add a half
cup of sugar and a pinch of salt and place a layer of this in
bottom of baking-dish. Over this sprinkle crisp bread or

W01}99{01d yNoY}IM Op oO} YFnous sinyeul swovaq svULUe ZIT JO SMOI
94} se yoeq Aum Jeay yoea ‘earssatgoid pue aatssavons ‘yimay a} JO UOTYEULIOJ ay} SMOYS IJ9] 94} 0} Wosso[q o4h

VNVNV@ CHL

CALIFORNIA FIGS

THE BANANA 257

cracker-crumbs mixed with one cup chopped peanuts.
Repeat the alternation of layers, having two of each.
On top sprinkle sugar and bake forty minutes in moderate
oven. (Satice: see above.)

BANANA ICE AND SHERBET

Make syrup as in Introductory Recipes, adding crushed
bananas to taste.

BANANA ICE CREAM

To the crushed pulp of six bananas add one cup sugar,
one-half teaspoon salt, and one quart. milk and cream
mixed. Mix well and freeze.

FROZEN BANANAS

Add to one dozen crushed bananas the juice of two
oranges and a pint of sugar. Freeze partially, then add
the whipped whites of two eggs and finish freezing.

FROZEN BANANA CUSTARD

To the regular custard for freezing (see Introductory
Recipes) add the crushed pulp of four or five bananas and
pinch of salt. Freeze.

BANANA MARMALADE

Make a syrup of two cups of sugar to one of water and
cook till it strings from the spoon. Stir into it then the
crushed or cubed pulp of four bananas and cook slowly
(where there is no danger of burning) until thick. (About
fifteen minutes). The addition of lemon, currant, or other
tart fruit juice relieves the intense sweetness but does not
detract from the banana flavour.

258 FRUIT RECIPES

BANANA JELLY

Make a plain gelatine (see Introductory Recipes) with a
decidedly tart flavour and add cubed or crushed bananas
in quantity liked.

“MUBISI” (S. African Unfermented Banana Wine)
P. W. Humphreys, (“What to Eat’’)

“A big hole is dug in the ground, lined by banana leaves,
filled with unripe bananas, and kept covered by mats and
earth until the fruit has become completely ripe. Then
the bananas are slit, mixed with fine hay,-and placed in a
large, boat-like, wooden trough which at one end has an
emptying pipe. After the addition of some water the wholeis
thoroughly mixed by the hand or by short wooden sticks.
Thereupon the trough is covered with banana leaves and
the mixture is left standing for about one or two hours.
After the expiration of that time it is taken out and through
grass sieves poured into large calabashes. It is then ready
for use and represents a sweet, agreeable and not intoxi-
cating beverage.

“MUENGE” (Fermented Wine) P. W. H.

“If the mubisi is left standing for three days it under-
goes a fermentation and becomes a slightly acid, refreshing
beverage which is strongly intoxicating. If it is filled into
bottles and they are kept well corked at a cool place for
several months one obtains a sparkling wine strongly
resembling champagne.

BANANA BEER, P. W. H.

“If a larger or smaller quantity of millet (boiled) is added
to it and the mixture is left standing in large earthen pots
for two or three days and stirred from time to time, it
becomes a beer which, according to the quantity of millet
added, is more or less intoxicating.”

THE BANANA 259

DRIED BANANAS

Bananas are dried in the tropics by simply pressing
through a sieve and spread out in the sun in cakes till
sufficiently evaporated to store away for future use.

BANANA FLOUR

From the banana flour obtainable in Mexico, pancakes,
muffins, etc., are made as by the regular recipes with changes
according to the strength of the flour.

BANANA SANDWICHES

Slice and serve the fruit between Banana Loaf or plain
bread with mayonnaise, or add lemon juice to the crushed
pulp. Cress may be added.

CHAPTER XXI
THE FIG (Moracee)

HE Ficus carica, or common fig, is but one of more than

a hundred species of a most interesting fruit which

from the earliest of ancient times has, in its varying forms,

been accorded not only a place of importance but honour

and reverence. Biblical records mention the fig as clothing,

food, and medicine, and, regarding the first, were foliage

available for modern costumes the fig tree would be en-

hanced in value because of the infinite variety of its leaf-

patterns; two leaves, even on the same tree, seldom being
found exactly alike.

The Egyptian Sycamore (Ff. sycamorus) which is sup-
posed to be the sycamore of the Scriptures, the Banyan
(F. Indica), the India Rubber tree (F. elastica), or ‘‘ Caout-
chouc,”’ and the renowned Peepul Tree of India (F. religtosa:
the Bo Tree of Ceylon) are among the many species of the
fig, and the oldest tree in the world is a Ceylon Bo Tree
whose age is estimated by historical records to be over
two thousand years. The Hindus venerate the Sacred Fig
because Vishnu is said to have been born under it and the
Buddhists because under one of them they believe ‘‘Gotama
Buddha reclined at Uruwelaya when he underwent his
apotheosis.” Colder countries are not strangers to the fig
for it is cultivated many degrees north of the frost line in
both Europe and America though, as in France and
England, winter-protection is a necessity.

Either green or dried figs are excellent food and as a
whole the fryit has no superior in healthfulness. Its large

260

THE FIG 261

amount of sugar is nourishing and being one of nature’s
best laxatives, pleasant to the taste, mild yet positive in
effect, it may be given more freely—with greater safety
in quantity—to many more people (from children to
those most advanced in years) than decidedly acid fruits.
Figs are also considered good for the kidneys and because of
their demulcent property are sometimes given in pulmonary
troubles. Externally applied they are considered very
healing (as in the days of Hezekiah) and so, roasted gently
or boiled, the inner part is not infrequently used as a poul-
tice. It is said that among the Malays the juice of one
species of fig, the F’. toxicaria, is used for poisoning arrows.
With some figs the milk is very mild but with many others
is acrid though not harmful as with the toxicaria. It was
without doubt this very common, temporary stinging sen-
sation which gave rise to the custom of eating fresh figs as
below.

Wherever this fruit grows every effort should be made
to put by a goodly store for future use for, perhaps, in
addition to its wholesome qualities there is no fruit which
dried, or preserved by some method of cooking, so retains or
so transforms its charms into equal attractiveness. It is
almost unique in being as agreeable dried as in its original,
fresh juiciness and its saccharine quality is greater.

RECIPES

TO EAT FRESH FIGS

When figs are served at the table uncooked hold them
by the stem and with a small knife cut the fruit across twice,
at right angles, downward as far as the stem. Thus
quartered the pulp will open and hang slightly outward
but will not become entirely detached. Then with the
knife separate the pulp from the skin, gently scraping it

262 FRUIT RECIPES

toward one, from the centre, or stem-heart, downward.
By this method one secures the entire pulp without the
skin and in convenient bits for eating.

STEWED FIGS

Figs may be stewed in three different ways, if the dried
fruit is used:

No. 1. Wash figs and place in cold water over
night, using a pint of water to a pound of figs. Next
morning bring the figs (in same water) slowly to a boil and
when tender add half the quantity of sugar that there is
juice, cooking down till the syrup is thick. Serve cold
with cream. ,

No. 2. Steam the figs till soft, then place them in
boiling syrup for a moment, setting them back where
they will not even simmer, for twenty minutes or more,
when remove the figs, cook down syrup till thick and pour
it over the fruit.

No. 3. Wash and cover the figs with wine, letting
stand over night. Then barely simmer till tender,
treating the syrup as above.

Fresh figs require simply simmering a few moments in
very little water before adding sugar, when let a syrup
form before removing. Pineapple, ginger, lemon, rhubarb,
or other fruits may be used to flavour.

BAKED FIGS

Place fresh figs in a small crock or earthenware dish, with
a little sugar and lemon juice or that of other fruit. Cover
and bake slowly and no water will be required.

TO FRESHEN FIGS

Place dried figs in an enamelled colander and steam until
soft and filled out in appearance. Remove and prepare

THE FIG 263

further for cooking as desired or roll in confectioners’
sugar and set aside to partially dry before serving. A drop
of tart fruit-juice and a little sugar may be placed inside
the fig.
STUFFED FIGS

Remove the inside of steamed or fresh figs and mix the
part removed with chopped nuts moistened with a syrup
of sugar and tart fruit-juice (cooked or uncooked). Roll
in sugar and serve.

FIG LOAF CAKE No. ¢

Cream two cups of brown sugar with one of butter. Add
one cup of water, four eggs, three and three-fourths cups
of flour, one teaspoon each of soda and grated nutmeg, and
two of cinnamon. Have ready, chopped and floured, one
pound of figs cut in fine strips lengthwise, and three cups
chopped raisins, adding these just before baking.

FIG LOAF CAKE No. 2

To two cups of sugar add a generous half cup of butter,
one of milk, four (scant) of flour (in which two teaspoons
of baking-powder have been sifted) and four eggs. Flour
two cups chopped figs and add to batter just before placing
in pans to bake.

LITTLE FIG CAKES

Beat together five eggs. Add to this a pinch of salt, a
cup each of sugar and chopped nuts, and a half cupof raisins,
the juice of one lemon and a pinch of nutmeg, one cup of
bread-crumbs in which has been well mixed a rounded
teaspoon of baking-powder, and one-half pound figs chopped
fine. Bake in one rather thin sheet and when the cake is
cold cut in small squares. This may be iced with a plain
boiled icing (see Introductory Recipes) into which has
been stirred one cup of chopped figs and nuts.

264 FRUIT RECIPES

FIG LAYER CAKE

Use any of the plain foundation cake batters (see Intro-
ductory Recipes) and bake in layers. For filling use the
real fig jelly, or the filling given next below or “‘Fig Snow.”

FIG FILLING OR JELLY FOR CAKE

Chop or shred one pound of figs and boil until tender in
one coffee-cupful of water, in double boiler. Add one and
one-half cups of sugar and one teaspoon of vanilla. Boil
down until smooth and thick. Spread while warm.

FIG SNOW FOR FILLING

Mix fig pulp (fresh or steamed, or stewed) with whipped
cream or meringue as for banana filling for Banana Layer
Cake.

FIG PUDDING OR PIE (Very Simple)

Cut fine one-half pound fresh or dried figs and simmer
half an hour in three-fourths pint of water, a dessert-
spoonful of sugar being added when nearly done. Re-
move and cool, when add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs.
Place in a pudding or pie dish and bake in moderate oven
until the yolks are set sufficiently, then place on top a
meringue made of the whites of the eggs and two table-
spoonfuls of sugar. Let this brown and remove to cool.

FIG SUET PUDDING (An English Recipe)

Chop fine six ounces of suet in three-fourths pound of
flour, adding a well-beaten egg, three-fourths cup of sugar,
and sufficient milk to form a smooth dough. Roll out
_ half an inch thick and sprinkle on it one pound fine-chopped
figs. Roll this up and tie in a pudding cloth, place in boil-
ing water, and boilfor two hours. (A little nutmeg may be
used for flavouring.)

THE FIG 265

FIG BREAD PUDDING

Soak three cups of breadcrumbs in one and one-fourth
pints of water and beat into this four eggs, a pinch of salt,
two tablespoons of sugar,and one and one-third cups of
chopped figs. (The figs should be first dredged in flour.)
Flavour with lemon or nutmeg. Beat well, then place in
pudding-dish and bake slowly for an hour and a half,
or place pudding in tight-covered vessel which is to be
placed in a pot of boiling water and kept at a boil for two
and a half hours. Serve with hard sauce.

FIG BLANC MANGE

Make as for Banana Blanc Mange; using one cup of fig
pulp and one cup of chopped nuts and a little lemon tinc-
ture. Prepare a sauce with the yolk of the egg beaten
with a tablespoon of sugar and stirred in with a pint of
boiling milk. Add one teaspoon of cornstarch, wet with
a little water, and remove from the fire. Nutmeg may be
added or a dash of lemon extract. Serve cold.

FIG ICE-CREAM

For two quarts of fig ice-cream mix one quart of cream
with two cups of sugar and freeze partially. Then add
to the mixture two cups of fig marmalade, the juice of oné
lemon with one teaspoonful of lemon extract, and the
whites of four eggs with which has been whipped a pinch
of salt, and finish freezing.

FIG ICE-CREAM No. 2

Stir together one pint of cream, one pint of new milk,
and three-fourths cup of sugar. Place on stove and bring
to a boil. In a separate vessel should have been stewed
one cup of chopped dried figs or two cups of fresh fruit in

266 FRUIT RECIPES

one-half cup of water. Add to the hot milk and let cool.
Then freeze, adding at the last moment either pineapple
or lemon extract and the juice of half a lemon. This will
make nearly two quarts.

FIG ICE

Peel two quarts of fresh figs and stir well with the juice
of one lemon and its grated peel, or one teaspoon lemon
extract, some fruit acid and two cups of sugar. Add two
cups of water and freeze.

FIG CANDY

Boil over a slow fire one pound of sugar and a half pint
of water until the syrup hardens when dropped into cold
water. Add half a teaspoon of vinegar and remove from
the fire, stirring once or twice before pouring over a layer
of figs placed in deep dish. Dried figs may be used either
previously soaked an hour in cold water, or those perfectly
dry. They are more apt to give good results.than the
fresh figs.

CANDIED OR CRYSTALLISED FIGS

Proceed as in third method for drying until the syrup-
dipping stage is reached. At this point, on removing
them from the boiling syrup drain and sprinkle thickly
with granulated sugar, then place on thin wooden slabs
or “hurdles” of galvanised iron and dry very slowly in
fruit-dryer or slow oven, turning the figs frequently.
When thoroughly dried and sugared these may be packed
in layers, with oil paper between and kept in a dry place.

Or proceed as for candied cherries, dipping first in brine
instead of lye.

FIG JAM

If dried steam first till very soft. If fresh and ripe
place them in a double-boiler, heating through perfectly

THE FIG 267

but adding “no water. They may be steamed instead.
Add about one-half their weight then of sugar and cook
down carefully till thick. Lemon juice and peel, pine-
apple or other decided fruit may be added for flavouring.
This if preferred may be rubbed through a coarse sieve
and heated again before sealing in little pots or jars.

FIG. JELLY

Slice the figs into the preserving kettle, covering bottom
of kettle with cold water. Add slicesof unpeeled lemon, one
lemon to one and a half pints of uncooked figs. Place on
back of stove to cook slowly an hour, when strain and
boil for fifteen or twenty minutes (according to the state
of the syrup or the weather), adding three-fourths quan-
tity of sugar to that of the fruit.

PRESERVED FIGS

Heat figs through thoroughly in a steamer, double-
boiler or slow oven without water, then drop them into a
heavy, boiling syrup; remove and let stand in it over
night. In the morning bring to a boil, remove; let stand till
cold; re-heat; drain; pack figs close together in. jars; cook
down the syrup and pour over the fruit. Figs may be pre-
served in lemon syrup, in grape juice, or other tart fruit
juices or have added to them lemon peel and juice or lemon
and ginger root. See also Preserved Cherries. Dried figs
may be steamed and then so preserved or by simpler pro-
cess. Many people hold that preserved fresh figs must
first be dipped in boiling lye, repeating several times,
a minute at a time.

PICKLED FIGS

Pick figs which are barely ripe, though fully swollen out,
and leave stems on the fruit. Place in a jar of fairly strong

268 FRUIT RECIPES

brine and let stand over night when rinse well in fresh
cold water, drain, pack close together in jars, and pour
over them hot spiced vinegar (sweetened if liked) as for
apples, cherries, grapes, etc.

CAKES OF FIGS

Cook ripe, peeled figs slowly in double boiler with a
little sugar and flavouring (if liked), till smooth and thick.
Almonds may be added while cooking. Pour into shallow
moulds or pans and dry slowly in sun, oven, or dryer, when
perfectly dry cutting in squares or strips and wrapping in
oiled paper or storing in dry place. These may be used for
cookery as are the commercial figs.

TO DRY FIGS

There are several methods in vogue for this, a California
treatment of them (Dr. Eisen’s) reported by the Depart-
ment of Agriculture (Div. of Pomol., Bul. No. 1) being
the following: ‘‘When the figs began to wilt and show
small white seams they were cut from the tree by means of
scissors or a knife, then carefully placed on trays similar to
raisin trays. (An improvement is here suggested of nailing
laths to form longitudinal ribs across the tray-bottoms.)
By placing the figs with the eye elevated on the rib the
sugary contents are prevented from leaking out. . . . The
figs are now placed in the sun to dry turned every day, at
first separately by hand, but when partially dried were
turned .. . as we turn raisin trays. Every night they were
covered over. . . . The figs are sufficiently dry when they
show the same dryness in the morning as the evening. . . .
If not sufficiently dried they will puff up and spoil. It is,
however, a great danger to overdry the figs. Such figs
will get a cooked and earthy taste. . . . It took from five
to twelve days to dry the figs, according to the weather.

THE FIG 269

When dry they may be dumped into sweat boxes for a few
days but the better way is to dip and pack them right
away. Now prepare a kettle or tub with boiling water,
in which is put enough common unrefined rock salt, such
as is used for cattle; table salt will not do. . . . Sea water
may be preferable. . . . About three big handfuls of rock
salt to one gallon of water is enough. When the salt is dis-
solved and the water is again boiling immerse the figs for
two seconds; immediately afterwards thumb the figs, and
work the eye of the fig downward and the stalk end up-
ward. . . . This process is necessary. First, it dis-
tributes the thicker skin around the eye of the fig evenly,
and in eating we thus get equal parts of the thicker

and thinner skin. Secondly, it places the
fine skin of the stalk end on top, and when the figs
are packed and pressed they present a beautiful smooth
surface. I believe the dipping of the figs in boiling salt
water may be dispensed with if the figs are sufficiently
pliable without it. But it is absolutely indispensable to
dip the figs in salt water, and during the thumbing of the
figs the hands of the packer must be constantly moistened
by salt water or the sugar will stick to the fingers and make
the operation almost impossible. . . . The figs taste at first
exceedingly salt . . . but after a few days the salt works
into the fig and gives it a peculiar appetising taste,
counteracting the excessive sweetness.

“The heavy pressing of the figs, which is always so
strong that it causes them to burst at the stalk end is much
objected to by the consumer, as it evidently defaces the
fig. But, nevertheless, this compression is absolutely
necessary. It prevents insects from entering between them
and it prevents the air entering, thus drying out the
fig . . .”

A second California method reported (Mr. Burnham, .

270 FRUIT RECIPES

of Riverside) was to pick the figs when wilted and while
yet green to treat it to ‘‘a strong sulphur bath,” then put-
ting in the sun to dry, after this sweating it in sacks, then
packing.

A Florida method ‘‘H. R.”’ (Farmer and Fruit Grower)
is to gather the figs when fully ripe but before they crack
open. The fruit should be placed “in a wire basket and
dip it into a deep kettle of hot lye made from wood ashes.
Let it remain in the lye a minute or two to remove the gum
and milk and until the figs begin to shrivel slightly. Let
all the lye drip off the figs, place them in a kettle or vat of
boiling syrup, and let them remain in it three or four
minutes. Then dip them out with a skimmer, let the
syrup run off entirely and place the fruit at once in a dryer
or evaporator. When sufficiently dry let them become
perfectly cool and pack very close in drums or boxes,
pressing the fruit down compactly with a small lever.”

Figs form their own sugar in packing but spices may be
placed between the layers, or the Southern sweet bay, if
time and fancy so dictate.

A simpler method is to pick when ripe and dry on trays
in the sun, turning every day and pressing flat with the
hand. Pack in layers and keep in a dry place.

CHAPTER XXII

THE DATE—THE COCOANUT

Phenix Dactilifera Cocos—Nuctfera—Phenicacee

: HE date, whether fruit or tree, instinctively brings

to mind the islands of the desert: the cocoanut
those of the tropical seas. Differing thus widely as to
natural habitat and as to type of fruit there are neverthe-
less necessarily striking points of resemblance and similar-
ity of general products presented by these two stately,
graceful members of the Palm Family, and by the increase
and scattering of the human family they have become more
closely associated as to places of growth. The general
contour of the trees and bunching of the fruit in the bushy
tops are the same; the fibre of the leaf-stems of both is used
in the manufacture of cordage, the leaves themselves
for mats, baskets, and innumerable other products;
the wood for local building purposes or imported for
making up into highly polished furniture or choice
woodwork.

Both these palms yield quantities of sap, known as
“‘toddy,” and it is a common, yearly practice to tap them.
The toddy, unfermented, is much liked as a drink
and when in this condition and boiled down the
syrup called ‘‘jaggery’’ is obtained, which in turn yields
another product: sugar; about one pound resulting from
four of the syrup, it is estimated. Fermented, the sap
becomes palm wine or is distilled into arrack. The heart

271

272 FRUIT RECIPES

or terminal bud of these palms, called the “cabbage,” is
sweet, tender, and nutty, but it istoo luxurious an article
of diet to be often indulged in, as its removal causes the
death of the tree. The ends of the leaf-stalks, however, are
almost identical in texture and flavour and are used as a
vegetable.

With these points of similarity the general resemblance
in appearance and food values of the trees ceases for the
fruits borne by them are totally unlike in form and kind of
nutriment. The date’s distinctive and preponderating
element is sugar; that of the cocoanut, oil. The small
proportion of fat contained in the date is chiefly in its
stones or pits which are sometimes roasted and ground for
use as a substitute for coffee and sometimes ground un-
roasted to secure the oil contained in them. The cake or
paste remaining from the latter process is given to camels
as food, as are also types of imperfect dates. The dates
themselves,when compressed in preparing them into dried
cakes for future use, give out a syrup whichisused in cookery
like molasses, and the crushed fruit may be fermented for
date wine. So concentrated has nature made the food
value of the date, so powerful and readily carried a store-
house of energy, that in some countries the killing of a
date-palm is a criminal offence. It is true that dates
contain a very small per cent. of protein but their sugar is
in so pure and simple a form that they are readily digested
and when eaten with nuts to furnish the nitrogen and fat
the combination is an almost perfect food.

More than one variety of date bears fruit. The wild
date of India, Phenix sylvestris, is famed for its sugar
production as well as for its fruit. On the whole this fruit-
bearing palm is not as sensitive to cold asis the cocoanut
and grows luxuriantly in parts of Spainand Italy. It
begins to bear from about ten years old upward indefinitely,

DATE—COCOANUT 273

age seeming no hindrance. Some of the Italian date trees
prove their longevity for it was over one thousand years
ago that those of Bordighera were planted by the monks.

Cocoanuts, like dates, contain only a small per cent. of
nitrogen, but, unlike that other palm fruit, provide one of
the most delightful forms of oil and in as generous quantity
as the date gives sugar. According to the tradition of
colder climes the cocoanut is indigestible, but in the balmy
countries where the cocoa-palm flourishes one does not
hear of this, chiefly because its fruit is there eaten in proper
condition: when at the right stages to be offered human
stomachs. The white ‘“nut’’-lining is soft enough
at first (when half ‘‘ripe’’), to be eaten with a spoon, and
the milk is not thick and white but clear, somewhat, sweet,
and most refreshing up to perfect maturity. It is said
there is nothing more easily digested, assimilated and
fattening than fresh cocoanut milk, and it is recommended
to invalids to be as freely indulged in as possible: perhaps
the juice of six cocoanuts a day to begin with, as a restora-
tive. (Fresh cocoanut oil is sometimes prescribed as a
substitute for cod liver oil.) There are people whose en-
thusiasm over it goes’so far asto claim the probability of
cocoanut milk being that fountain of youth so ardently
sought and so persistently concealed since time itself was
young. But, as with many other fruits, the cocoanut is
gathered before maturity for shipment and even where cold
does not affect it on the long journey it is impossible but
that it should be the reverse of improved on reaching its
destination. However, one may get something of the
flavour of both milk and meat in the northlands and need
not shun them if one uses the cocoanut from the shell and
so gets it unadulterated, and uses always sufficient of all
kinds of fruit to keep one’s digestive apparatus in good
condition.

274 FRUIT RECIPES

RECIPES FOR DATES AND COCOANUT

DATE SANDWICHES

Stone and chop dates until soft enough to spread between
thin slices of buttered bread. If good butter and whole-
some white or brown bread are used one has a most satis-
fying luncheon, containing all the requirements of fat,
sugar, nitrogen, etc. One may substitute fine-chopped
nuts for the butter, for variety, if one wishes.

DATE GEMS

To half a cup of stoned, chopped dates add the well-
beaten yolk of one egg, a pinch of salt, half a pint of sweet
milk, two scant cups of flour in which two teaspoons of
baking-powder have been sifted, adding a tablespoon
of oil or butter before beating in the whipped white of the
egg. Bake for twenty minutes rather briskly.

DATE FRUIT BREAD

Make as for Bread for Fruit Toast (Introductory Recipes),
_and for each loaf allow and work in nearly a pint of chopped,
stoned dates.

DATES WITH BREAKFAST FOOD

With any cooked breakfast food stir in a cup or more
of stoned, chopped dates a few minutes before removing
from the fire. Or, they may be added to any uncooked,
flaked food with delicious effect.

STEWED DATES

Wash and cover a pound of dates with one pint of water
and let stand over night. In the morning place on the
stove and let them come to a boil. Let them simmer gently

Suyimiy oy} Jo 0844s ysiy OUT

VICNI WTVd aLvad WIvd
JO WIVd &LVG GTIM V dO LaVadH AHL NI dn a@LVd dHL dO WOOTE

SLONVOOOD DNIHAHLVD

peaoulelon ysny
Cuury) ‘e4efanu sov07 suyeg yNUODO_ z9yNo YILA syNUOD0D pure ULOOTG JNUBODOD

DATE—COCOANUT 275

for a few minutes, adding a few drops of lemon or lime or
orange juice, then remove the fruit, add a little sugar to
the water left in the cooking-vessel, and simmer until the
syrup is thickened. Pour this over the fruit and serve
when cold.

DATE JAM

Jam may be made from dates by cooking in the pro-
portion of one pound of stoned fruit to one cup of water
and a half-pound of sugar—the sugar to be added after
the fruit has simmered about eight minutes. Add with
the sugar a teaspoonful of butter and spice, or lemon
juice, or other flavouring as one chooses. Cook down
until smooth and thick and place in jars.

DATE FLUFF-DUFF

Stew one cupful of dates, stoned, until tender, then put
through a colander and mix with one cup of sugar in which
has been sifted a teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Beat
thoroughly the whites of five eggs with a pinch of salt and
when perfectly stiff add the yolks of two and whip again.
Now mix lightly, a little at a time, with the dates and
sugar and place in a buttered baking-dish. Sprinkle over
the top one-half cup of fine-chopped nuts and bake for
fifteen minutes. Serve this with cream, plain or whipped.

DATE FOAM

Make an orange or lemon gelatine jelly. (With a plain
gelatine it is best to follow directions given by the manufac-
turers of the particular brand one uses, as they know best
the strength of their gelatine, using, however, in a warm
climate one cup less of water than that recommended).
With this as a foundation, when the gelatine begins to
‘harden slightly on being removed from the stove and

N

276 FRUIT RECIPES

whipped in process of cooling, add the well-beaten whites
of two eggs and one cup of stoned, chopped dates. Place
in a mould and set on ice to chill.

DATE PIE

For two pies use a pound of‘dates. Wash them and
place in a crock with a quart of milk to heat slowly. When
soft stone them and crush or put through colander. Add
an egg or a tablespoon of dissolved cornstarch to thicken,
then place in a baked pastry shell. Whipped cream or a
meringue may be used with this or thin lattice strips of
paste laced over it.

A

DATE LAYER CAKE

Use the ‘‘One, Two, Three, Four”’ recipe (see Introduc-
tory Recipes) and bake in layers. Ice with a plain, boiled
icing (see Introductory Recipes) in which, as it cools,
should be stirred one cup of stoned, chopped dates.

.DATE LOAF,CAKE

Make the cake as above, using, however, an additional
cup of flour and a second heaping teaspoon of baking pow-
der. Add one grated nutmeg, the grated rind of one
lemon, and one pound of dates, stoned, cut fine, and dredged
with flour. Bake in a moderate oven one hour or more.

DATE MACAROONS

Beat the whites of three eggs stiff, then add gradually
a half pound of powdered sugar (a dessertspoonful of
cornstarch sifted through the sugar); one-half cup of fine-
chopped nuts and one of dates, and the rind of an orange
grated. Work well together gently, adding enough grated
cocoanut to make stiff enough to form into balls. Very

DATE—COCOANUT 277

little cocoanut will be required, so it is best to add but a
tablespoonful first and bake a ‘‘try-cake”’ as a test.

STUFFED DATES

These are not necessarily for mere sweetmeats as there
is in them a great amount of condensed nourishment,
though they make a most ‘dainty dish to set before a
king.”

Select the largest dates and pinch out the stones.
Fill space with nuts or a plain cream-candy filling made
by working in with the whipped white of an egg as much
powdered or confectioners’ sugar as it will stand. This
should be flavoured with lemon juice or some other de-
cided flavour. (Or, see Introductory Recipes.)

DATE FUDGE

To two cups of granulated sugar add two-thirds of a cup
of sweet milk and one-third cup butter. Add one tea-
spoonful of vanilla when the syrup has begun to simmer,
Stir this until just after the vanilla has been added, then
let cook for twenty-five minutes without stirring, watch-
ing carefully, however, that it does not burn. When a
light brown in colour pour out on plates on which are spread
chopped or halved dates and let cool.

DATE ICE

Make a lemonade or orangeade and to each quart of liquid
add one pound of stoned, chopped dates and a half cupful
of fine chopped nuts. A little lemon extract may be
added. Freeze.

DATE ICE-CREAM

Make the usual foundation ice-cream, adding to it
for each quart a cupful or more of shredded dates, then
freeze. (Flavour as liked.)

278 FRUIT RECIPES

COCOANUT AND DATE SALAD

The fresh cocoanut, cut in cubes, mixed with stoned,
halved dates, served on crisp, tender lettuce or young cab-
bage leaves, makes a pretty and delicious salad. Mayon-
naise or a cooked dressing in which lemon juice takes the
place of vinegar, gives proper piquancy.

COCOANUT MILK FOR COOKERY

Cocoanut milk may be used in any way that cow’s milk
is used: for soups, stews, and dainty desserts. The milk
may still be used after the shell is brown and hard through—
the proper stage is when the shell is tender enough to be
cut into with a sharp, stiff, slender knife. To get all the
milk at the more advanced stages the white meat should be
grated, and boiling water poured over it in proportion of
one scant quart to each large cocoanut. Stir this for
some minutes, then strain through a cotton cloth, squeezing
the cocoanut well. Let this liquid cool and it will be found
that the fat rises as does cream and may be used as cream,
butter, or oil. The fibre remaining may again be treated
with boiling water but its quality will not be as rich.

COCOANUT SOUP (Old Recipe)

Scald and scrape (but do not skin) two sets of calves’
feet (eight) and place in a soup-kettle with the thin-pared
tind of a lemon and six blades of mace. Pour over this
one gallon of cold water and let heat gradually, skimming,
simmering till the calves’ feet are thoroughly shredded by
the long gentle cooking, when strain and set away to harden.
Remove the fat from it and replace on the stove with a
fine-scraped fresh cocoanut (at least a half-pound of cocoa-
nut meat) and a pint or more of undiluted cocoanut milk
or cream. (Butter and a little corn or rice flour may be

DATE—COCOANUT 279

substituted with milk for the cocoanut juice.) Add half
a nutmeg grated; boil fifteen minutes, skimming, then
serve with small French rolls or milk biscuit. Sugar may
be passed with this.

COCOANUT CURRY

In India cocoanut is very much used in curries. For a
vegetable curry melt two tablespocns of butter in a sauce-
pan (or use cookng oil); slice into this one onion and let it
cook for a few moments. Now add one tablespoonful of
curry powder mixed with a half pint of cocoanut milk and
a scant teaspoon of salt, and let simmer for five minutes.
The vegetables should have been prepared beforehand,
cooked separately: (cut in small bits): two carrots; two
medium-sized Irish potatoes; one-half pint of green peas,
and one-half pint of grated cocoanut. Place these in the
curry and let simmer for about five minutes, when it is
ready to serve.

COCOANUT OMELET

Beat together the whites of three eggs with a half tea-
spoonful of salt and dash of tabasco. When well whipped
add the yolks and one cup of grated cocoanut with a half
cup of cocoanut milk. Cook carefully for three minutes
in a well-buttered saucepan where there is moderate heat,
slipping a knife under the omelet once or twice to prevent
burning. When partially brown set in the oven to finish
cooking, a good final test being that of no particle sticking
to a knife thrust into the centre.

COCOANUT INDIAN FRITTERS

Place in a bowl three tablespoons of flour and scald with
sufficient scalding cocoanut milk to make a smooth, stiff
paste. Let it cool, then add to it the beaten yolks

280 FRUIT RECIPES

of four eggs, and the whites of two, with a cup or
more (as desired) of fresh, shredded cocoanut. Work this
up well together then drop by dessertspoonfuls into boiling
fat or oil and fry to a golden brown.

COCOANUT TOAST

Toast to a medium brown some slices of rusk and pour
over them fresh cocoanut milk, slightly thickened; adding
at the last shredded, tender cocoanut—fresh gathered.
Serve hot with a dash of nutmeg over the whole.

COCOANUT AND ORANGE FLOWERS

When at its first creamy (‘‘spoon’’) stage serve the
cocoanut from the shell, in convenient pieces, or scraped
on to a serving-dish, and sprinkled with the fresh or candied
pétals of orange-flowers. The preserved orange flowers
may be used with this, also. Cream, sugar, a meringue, or
wine may be served with it.

SHERRIED COCOANUT

Grate a fresh cocoanut and drop into a thick syrup made
of four cups of sugar to two of water, and cook gently for
forty minutes. When done remove from the fire and
immediately stir in the beaten yolks of threeeggs. These
should thicken a little with the beating and heat. Add
a wineglassful of sherry, whip well and cool. (The eggs
may be stirred in while still on stove but should never be
allowed to boil.)

COCOANUT CUPS

Gently stew a sliced cocoanut in the cocoanut milk for
an hour, or tintil tender, then add juice and grated rind of
one lemnon or orange, a half-cup of sugar, and the beaten
yolks of four eggs. Let thicken slightly, then pour into

DATE—COCOANUT 281

custard cups and bake fifteen minutes, Place on top the
whipped whites of the eggs (with one-half cup of sugar)
and brown lightly. Remove, cool, and serve.

PASTEL DE COCO

To the grated meat of one cocoanut take its weight in
granulated sugar and one cup of water. Cook until a
moderately thick syrup has been formed, additg as it cooks
a small cupful of fruit-juice—preferably pineapple. Cook
this ten minutes at least, then add the beaten yolks of four
eggs, a half-teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and cinnamon
mixed, and a half wineglass of wine. Cook very slowly
until it thickens evenly (stirring all the while), then
spread on a flat dish and let cool before serving. When
partially cool sprinkle on this half a cup of grated cocoanut.

COCOANUT CAKES

Mix together one-half pound of flour; one-fourth pound
each of butter and sugar, and two eggs. Add a small cup
of milk (of the cocoanut, if possible) and one teaspoonful
of baking-powder. When well mixed add grated or des-
iccated cocoanut, a cupful or more as desired, then bake
in small buttered tins in a moderately quick oven.

COCOANUT MACAROONS

Whip stiff the whites of three eggs and add a cup of
powdered sugar, beating till very light. Flavour with
almond or vanilla and add half a pound of desiccated
cocoanut, then mix and drop on buttered paper or tins.
If fresh cocoanut is used take half a pound of sugar and as
much cocoanut as required for ‘‘body.”

COCOANUT DROPS

Grate one cocoanut and weigh, adding half its weight
in sugar. Mix this with a stiff-whipped white of egg and

282 FRUIT RECIPES

drop on buttered paper. Bake fifteen minutes in rather
a quick oven.
COCOANUT CREAM CANDY

Grate one cocoanut and set aside. Boil one and a half
pounds of sugar with the milk of the cocoanut, heating
very slowly till sugar is melted. Boil then for five or six
minutes gently; add the grated cocoanut and boil ten min-
utes longer. Stir continually. Pour on buttered plates
and give forty-eight hours as time for hardening.

COCOANUT MOUSSE (Frozen)

Have ready one cup of fresh, pounded cocoanut and add
to it a pint of the richest cocoanut ‘“‘cream’’ and milk, or
half a pint of cocoanut milk and a half pint of whipped
cream (from cow’s milk). Add three-fourths cup of sugar
and a tiny pinch of salt, then stir in a small tablespoon of
gelatine which has been dissolved in two tablespoons of
water and strained. Freeze. (For one quart.)

*

The cocoanut, particularly the fresh-picked fruit, lends
itself or its milk to almost. every form of frozen dainty,
making most attractive ices, ice-creams, etc., and in many
forms supposedly adapted only to other (more strictly)
fruit it is delightful as foundation or accessory.

The palm-cabbage, or the stalk-ends, may be used, un-
cooked, in salads, or delicately cooked (like cauliflower),
or pickled.

CHAPTER XXIII

THE JAPANESE PERSIMMON (Diospyrus
Kaki, Diospyrace@)

HIS, the national fruit of Japan, is a giant compared
with the persimmon of the North American woods
as regards the size of its fruit; the tree is a comparative
dwarf but makes up in beauty, symmetry, and convenience
of size what it lacks in height. It does not need the frost
to sweeten its fruit but neither does the frost-touch prove
harmful as to other semi-tropical fruits. There is as end-
less an array of varietv in this persimmon as the apple can
present and it is used by the Japanese in as many different
ways and as constantly. The Japan persimmon varies
so in size, flavour, and shape, from the size of a base-ball to
that of the largest orange; from those somewhat tasteless
and dry to a ravishingly delicious and juicy type; and
from the rounding, through all degrees, to the extremely
elongated—that one can but generalise in dealing with it.
It seems a great pity that it is not better known and ap-
preciated in Northern markets, as it ships well, grows so
readily and in such abundance that it is not the expensive
fruit many of the semi-tropical products prove to be, and
yet is one of the richest of fruits in food value. It can
best perhaps be compared with the banana as to its type
of riches and its practicability as ‘‘a whole meal’”’ in itself.
It has wealth of carbohydrates, also fat and protein, (with
more sugar however), and its energy-producing power is
about the same as the forceful banana.
It is susceptible of much more variation than is realised
283

284 FRUIT RECIPES

yet in even Florida and California, and its prodigal abun-
dance might be indulged in not only more freely, with better
results because of its substance, but farther north than it
has yet been grown or shipped. It should be mentioned,
however, that only the “‘chocolate’’ or dark-meated vari-
eties, of which there are a number, should be used in
cookery. Even where the others are perfectly ripe the
chemical action of the heat brings out the astringent quality
so actively that it is impossible to eat the results. The
chocolate varieties may be used without any danger of the
development of unpleasant qualities. The thoroughly
ripe Northern persimmon in its sweet, sugary state, may
be also used with great success with most of the recipes or
suggestions given for the Japanese.

RECIPES

TO SERVE OR COMBINE THE UNCOOKED
PERSIMMON

In serving the uncooked Kaki send it to the table with
sharp-pointed spoons with which both to pierce quickly
the thin skin and eat the pulp. Or it may be peeled care-
fully, the pulp removed and mixed lightly with orange
juice and sugar or with whipped cream—this, before serving.
Tapioca and sago, or gelatine already cooked, may be added
with the whipped white of an egg for a dessert, but in such
case the puddings should be made rather thick and partially
cooled before pouring over the persimmon, in order that the
latter may not become too juicy with the warmth and
make the dessert watery. Frozen persimmons are very
delicious—peeled and frozen whole with sugar and orange
juice, or mashed with syrup and lemon juice as an ice, or
added at the last moment to plain ice-cream.

JAPANESE PERSIMMON 285

PERSIMMON (Cooked Pudding)

This pudding may be made by using to a quart of per-
simmon pulp two eggs, a pint of milk, a cupful of sugar,
a heaping tablespoon of cornstarch, wet in part of the milk,
and a heaping teaspoon of baking-powder. Where orange
juice is desired as flavouring substitute a small spoonful
of soda for the baking-powder. Bake in pudding-dish
slowly for an hour and serve, while still warm, with cold
milk or cream, though persimmons are too rich almost of
themselves to be served with cream.

MARMALADE AND JELLY

The marmalade (from the dark, non-astringent fruit) should
be cooked in double-boiler with no water. Add instead,
a little orange juice (about half a pint to two quarts of
pulp), and when cooked down thick stir in three-fourths
the quantity of sugar (heated) that there is pulp, and cook
till stiff as one’s taste indicates. Jelly may also be made
with orange juice and orange-pulp added, or the pulp of
pie-melon, half melon and half persimmon; but, while the
jelly is pretty and delicate it has not much individuality
and can scarcely be said to pay for the trouble. The per-
simmon makes excellent vinegar, beer, and wine and may
be preserved, dried, somewhat after the manner of figs.

TO CURE OR DRY PERSIMMONS

One of the U. S. Government Reports (Fla. Bul. No. 71)
gives the following quotation from Professor Kizo Tamari
(of the Agricultural College, Imperial University, Tokio)
as to the Japanese methods of curing the persimmon: “I
will tell you how to cure the austere varieties so as to make
them edible or change them into sweet ones in the following
ways:

286 FRUIT RECIPES

“First Method—When fairly ripened pick the fruit from
the trees, peel off the skin and hang them by threads at-
tached to the stems in a room for two or three weeks. They
will then turn brown or black and become soft. You will
say that they are the most delicious fruits in the world and
dried still further, they will become just like dried figs, or
better than figs. Further, pack them in a box in alternate
layers with cut rice straw and keep them for a month.
Black ones then become covered with a white powder (not
mouldy). They then become very sweet, though the
sweetness may not be retained through the next summer.

‘Second Method—Harvesting time being the same as
above, the fruits are packed into an empty wine cask (in .
Japan Sake casks, Japanese rice-wine). This should still
be full of alcoholic flavour, or if the flavour be weak, the
cask should be sprinkled with wine or brandy or any other
spirit. Sherry wine somewhat resembles our Sake.
Sprinkle the fruits very lightly with wine and keep covered
air-tight for a week or two according to the temperature
and the degree of austereness of the fruit. At the end of
the time they become sweet.

“Other Methods—The process of sweetening is not merely
limited to the above methods, but the fruit may be treated
in several other ways; for instance, put new rice straws
and dried haulms of sweet potato in about equal proportion
in a vat, filling it about one-fifth full. To this add a little
wood ashes and pour warm water over them. Stir up the
straw so as to get it thoroughly wet. When the water is
tepid, put in fruit to fill it one-quarter to one-third full and ;
stir up to wet the fruit and imbed it in the straw. Cover
the vat for five or seven days, after which time the fruit will
be fit to eat. The fruits thus cured are not as sweet as
by the Sake cask process,”

yp0js PIM WoW UMOI P OZIS 0} SB ULOLIOUrY pue osoueder U98MzEq
aouaIaYIp MON “volIeuLy Jo UOWIUISIed ULoyZJOu

‘NOWNISHAd SVN'TAG PIA [pews ay3 WQIM ‘suouIUIsIed Ueder [eoyUOD pue eT

SVAVOD UVad AGNV WiddV (vfindid v1.09) MVdVd TVOICOUL

CHAPTER XXIV
THE GUAVA (Psidium, Nat. Ord. Myrtacee)

HE Guava, a fruit of peculiarly aromatic odour, and
one of the most attractive members of the Myrtle
Family, is best known to botanists and cooks through
its “pear” and “apple” varieties (Psidium pyriferum
and P. pomiferum), varieties of the common guava
(P. Guajava), and, in lesser degree, the red Cattley (P.
Cattleyanum) and the Chinese guava, or “‘ yellow Cattley”’
(P. Chinense). It is interesting to know that this all-
around fruit, as useful and practicable in cookery in the
more southern countries as is the apple in colder climates,
is considered as without doubt American in origin, for
although China has its yellow Cattley, it is supposed to
have been carried there at a very early date from Brazil.
The red or purple Cattley, sometimes called in California
the ‘‘strawberry”’ guava, and the yellow Cattley are partic-
ularly to be desired for jelly making. (‘Strawberry”’
is a name also familiarly applied to a small pink variety of
the common guava.) The thick-fleshed pear and apple
types (taking their names greatly from their forms) are
large and have few seeds comparatively, so that there is
less waste, and from the tone of their flavours may be used
more as are vegetables in general culinary work. Almost
any recipe suitable for peaches (the flesh of the guava
being similarly delicate) or for apples may be applied to
the guava.

287

288 FRUIT RECIPES

RECIPES

« TO SERVE THE GUAVA UNCOOKED

Peel the fruit, selecting if possible the nearly seedless
varieties, and where the seeds are virtually nil slice across
the fruit and serve with sugar and cream or a little wine
and spice with sugar. Where the seeds form an objection-
able centre, slice lengthwise or halve after peeling and scrape
or scoop away the seeds from the inner side before serving.
The scooped-out halves of the larger varieties may be
filled with chopped nuts, cocoanut shredded, candied
fruits, whipped cream or meringue, the Kaki and orange
juice, and innumerable other variations for special
oecasions.

STEWED GUAVA

Peel and proceed as above, then cover with cold water
or sweet milk and simmer gently until tender. At this
stage add sugar, or sugar and spice to taste, and serve when
cool.

GUAVA SAUCE

This may be made with the cooked or fresh guavas.
Peel and put through a coarse sieve or fruit crusher to
remove the seeds. The pulp resulting—a smooth mass—
may be mixed with sugar alone or with the addition of a
little lime or lemon juice or spice. Serve as with apple-
sauce. The white of an egg may be whipped stiff and added

if liked.
GUAVA SALADS

Peel and slice as far outside the seed centre as possible,
removing seeds remaining oninner side. It is advisable to
use either the large pale-yellow pear guava, mild in flavour,
or the vermilion-tinted red, tart fruit (the original apple
guava). Serve on lettuce or tender cabbage-heart with

THE GUAVA 289

French dressing. Mayonnaise is, however, sometimes pre-
ferred. As with other fruits variety almost without end
may be made by adding celery or nuts, other fruits or
delicate vegetables.

GUAVA WITH MACARONI

For this use only the very tart fruit. Peel and put pulp
through sieve. In one pint of pulp rub smooth a
teaspoon of flour with a teaspoon of butter, and salt and
pepper to taste. (A little lemon juice will be necessary
with the milder varieties.) Bring this to scalding point in
double-boiler. Have ready plain boiled macaroni cut in
inch lengths; drain and add the prepared guava. Place
in baking-dish, sprinkle breadcrumbs and bits of butter
on top, and bake in quick oven fifteen or twenty minutes.

GUAVA FRITTERS

Peel and slice thick the fruit (removing seeds). The
lengthwise slices are best where seeds are prominent. Dip
in fritter batter (see Introductory Recipes) and proceed
as for other fruit fritters.

GUAVA SHORTCAKE
Make a sauce (as above), preferably with the uncooked
fruit, and serve as for Strawberry Shortcake. (See also
Introductory Recipes.)
GUAVA COBBLER
See Peach Cobbler.

GUAVA BROWN BETTY
Make as for Apple Brown Betty. (See ‘‘The Apple.”’)

GUAVA DUMPLINGS
See Apple and Lemon Dumplings.

290 FRUIT RECIPES

GUAVA ROLY POLY
See Apple Roly Poly.

GUAVA CUSTARD

To the yolks of three whipped eggs add three cups guava
pulp, one pint of milk, a little orange peel, two teaspoons
cornstarch, a pinch of salt, and sugar to taste. Bake in
cups or pastry shells, in pudding-dish unlined or cook in
double-boiler with care (as with all custards) and pour into
heated glass dish.

OTHER DESSERTS
‘

Guavas may be used with all of the foundation formulas
given in Introductory Recipes and will be found very deli-
cious with gelatine and other delicate concoctions as well
as in tarts, etc. For all ices the guava is particularly satis-
factory. For these the syrup may be used as. well as the
preserved forms put through a sieve so that they may be
had out of season as well as when the fresh, crushed fruit
is at hand.

GUAVA JELLY No. 1

A good general rule in guava-jelly (more than with al-
most any other fruit) is to avoid that which is ‘‘ dead ripe.”’
Never use the entire quantity of mature guavas. To
make in small quantities is best and an excellent plan is to
save the parings and seed centres for a day or two from
fruit used for sauce or desserts. For Jelly No. 1 use half
the quantity of ripe guavas and half those which are well
filled out but not quite turned in colour: not thoroughly
mature. If the whole fruit is used slice it, cover bottom
of preserving kettle with cold water, and simmer till soft.
Strain through jelly-bag (never squeeze); boil the juice
rapidly twenty minutes with or without the juice of half

POMEGRANATES

THE SWEET SOP OR SUGAR APPLE

THE SOUR SOP

THE GUAVA 291

a lemon added for each half-pint; add warm, granulated
sugar, cup for cup with the juice, and let melt and boil.
This should jell in about twenty-five minutes.

GUAVA JELLY No. 2

For this take the entire quantity of guavas well filled out
but still quite under-ripe. Slice; place with cold water
as above; simmer till cooked to pieces and strain. Foreach
pint of thick juice which results place in another vessel a
half-pound of sugar and a half pint of water. Make this
into a syrup and when it has thickened somewhat add two
pints of the syrup to each pint of the fruit juice. Cook.
slowly till it jells. (See cen Melon in Jelly.)

CATTLEY GUAVA JELLY —

The Cattley may be used in its mature or immature
stages, its general tartness precluding the necessity gener-
ally of using lemon juice withit. Proceed otherwise as with
any regular fruit jelly, using sugar pint for pint.

GUAVA PASTE

This is a heavy, pasty jelly much esteemed as a delicacy.
Use for the unripe fruit three-fourths its weight in sugar.
Cook the sugar in a separate vessel with water equal in
quantity to the sugar, reducing to a heavy syrup. In
another vessel cook the sliced, unpeeled ripe guavas with
a little water till quite soft; then strain through coarse sieve
and cook again slowly in double-boiler. When the mass
is a thick paste add the boiling syrup to it and cook until it
begins to candy when dropped in iced-water. Line tin
boxes with white or oiled paper and fill with the paste.
Serve for breakfast or for dessert, in latter case with
accompaniment of Edam or fresh cream cheese.

292 FRUIT RECIPES

GUAVA MARMALADE

Cook as for jelly, pressing through coarse sieve when soft.
Cook up again with equal quantity of sugar, adding juice
of one lemon to each pint of pulp. When thick place in
jars.

GUAVA PRESERVE

Peel and halve ripe guavas, removing seeds with pointed
spoon. For each pint of fruit add one pound of sugar and
three-fourths pint of water. Cook together until the
syrup candies slightly in cold water, then add fruit and
cook till translucent.

GUAVA SWEET PICKLE

Make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to each quart of
vinegar and six pounds of fruit, adding a teaspoon each of
allspice, mace, cloves, and cinnamon. Simmer half an
hour, skimming the while, then drop into it the whole fruit,
peeled (ripe but very firm), and cook slowly until tender
but not too soft. Remove fruit and cook syrup alone till
thick, then pour, boiling hot, over the fruit, packed
in jars for sealing.

GUAVA CATSUP

Slice ripe guavas and cover with cold water. Let sim-
mer till soft, then rub through colander and coarse sieve
(both). To each four quarts of guava allow four small
tablespoons each of salt and ground mustard; one each
of pepper, allspice, and celery seed (the latter in a small
bag). Simmer slowly in a quart of strong vinegar
for four hours. Stir carefully and frequently to pre-
vent burning. This should cook down thick and smooth.
Set aside at the end of four hours and let stand over night.
When cool, if too thick add vinegar till of right consistency,
then re-heat to boiling point and bottle while hot, sealing tight.

THE GUAVA 293

GUAVA CHUTNEY

To five pounds of guavas, peeled and crushed free of
seed, add two pounds of brown sugar, and two quarts of
strong vinegar. Simmer till smooth and thick then add
two pounds chopped, seedless raisins, a small minced
onion, (or head of garlic) and let come to a boil. Remove
immediately at this point and add one and a half tablespoons
(small) each of powdered ginger and mustard; four of
salt, and two small chopped red-pepper pods. Stir well and
let stand over night. In the morning stir again, place on
stove and bring to boiling point, then bottle or put in
jars, sealing tight.

GUAVA SYRUP (For Iced Drinks or Pancakes)

Make as for guava preserves, but including seeds, strain-
ing off the syrup and bottling while hot. Seal well. Dilute
when required for use.

GUAVA SHRUB (For Iced Drinks)

To six quarts ripe, sliced guavas add one quart of water
and two and a half ounces tartaric acid or one quart strong
vinegar. Let stand twenty-four hours, stirring occasion-
ally (Do not let it ferment), then strain, add a pound of
sugar to each pint of juice, scald for half an hour, and
bottle while hot.

GUAVA BRANDY
See Peach and Cherry Brandies.
GUAVA WINE
Make as for Mulberry Wine.
GUAVA VINEGAR

Save all parings and seeds from fresh or cooked guavas
and place in stone jar, covering with cold water. Over

294 FRUIT RECIPES

the mouth of jar tie thin cotton cloth and let stand a week,
when the old seeds must be removed and replaced with
fresh seeds or else start new jars with fresh peel and seeds,
pouring all the water together as the old seeds are removed.
After the fruit is removed add one-half pint sugar to each
gallon of fermented liquor. Keep the cloth tied over the
jar-mouth for about two weeks (or less) after the sugar is
added and fermented, then cork tight.

CHAPTER XXV

ROSE AND MALAY APPLES, JAVA PLUM,
SURINAM AND BARBADOES “CHERRIES,”
AND MARMALADE BOX

THE ROSE APPLE or. Eugenia Jambos

HIS beautiful, dainty fruit is of the same large family
of which the guava is a member, the Myrtacee, and
also that to which the allspice, the Eugenia pimenta,
belongs. With its rose odour and overdress and delicate
flavour, it is an extremely attractive morsel. It may be
eaten in its natural state; sliced, with wine and sugar; sim-
mered gently with sugar so that a delicate, simple sauce is
the result, or its top and seeds removed, dropped into
boiling syrup for about fifteen minutes, then served whole,
cold. In general it should be treated very much as is the
guava for foods, either cooked for immediate use, preserved,
or used in beverages.

MALAY APPLE AND JAVA PLUM

The Malay Apple (E. Malaccensis) is not unlike the Rose
Apple, though larger; in colour the same: pink and white.
The Java Plum (E. Jambolana) bears a sweet purple fruit
about the size of Northern plums.

SURINAM OR CAYENNE CHERRY (Eugenia Micheli)

This cherry is both black- and red-fruited, the black
variety being considered somewhat sweeter than the red.
295

296 FRUIT RECIPES

Although not a cherry it may be treated almost identically
the same in food preparations; in simple cookery or “put

up.”

The Barbadoes ‘‘Cherry’’ (Malphigia-glabra) resembles
the Surinam, though not the same fruit. It is a little
more tart but may be treated the same in food prepara-

tion.
MARMALADE BOX or Genipa Americana

This plant or small tree is not distantly related to the
Coffee Plant and Cape Jessamine of the Madder Family,
and bears a curious and delicious fruit called familiarly
“Marmalade Box.” It is much valued in Dutch Guiana,
Brazil, and other tropical countries.

CHAPTER XXVI

THE POMEGRANATE
Pumica Granatum

HE pomegranate was for very long considered, like
the guava, a member of the Myrtle Family, now
more commonly reckoned of the Lythracee or Loosestrife
Family, and the guava is in reality its namesake since
“Psidium’’ was derived from the Greek for ‘‘ Psidion,”
or Pomegranate. ‘“‘Punicum malum,’’ by which the an-
cients also designated the latter, indicates a Carthaginian
residence and neither the fig, the grape nor olive was a
greater favourite from its beauty, medicinal value, or as a
food accessory (although the pomegranate has not the
solid elements which would enable subsistence upon that
alone as with the others just named) in those earlier
centuries of the world.

The rind, flowers and root are all astringent. The rind
has not infrequently been recommended in decoction
or powdered form: valued as a gargle in sore throat,
and also as of use in dysentery and intermittent
fevers. Commercially it has served in tanning leather,
as have the flowers asa dye. Each part seems to partake
of the qualities of the others, as, for instance, the bark of the
tree also has been noted as a dye and the flowers for medi-
cine. The ancient Asiatics and Europeans, the negroes
of the West Indies and Mohammedan physicians of India
seem all to have recognised the value of the root bark as
a vermifuge.

The seeds have demulcent qualities but are very. ob-
jectionable where the fruit is used as a food accessory (as

297

298 FRUIT RECIPES

it may be in numerous ways): these must be removed by
pressing the pomegranate through a sieve but the seeds
must not be crushed in so doing for, broken, they are not
pleasant in flavour.

RECIPES

POMEGRANATE ICE

Cut a dozen ripe pomegranates in half and remove seeds
from the rind carefully. In the juice stir till dissolved one
- pound of sugar. Add gradually a pint of water; strain

again and freeze. ‘

POMEGRANATE SYRUP

Press and strain from seeds and cook down juice till
thick, when add sugar (see Fruit Syrup: Introductory
Recipes). The uncooked juice is considered very cooling
in fevers and the syrup makes a delicious drink.

JELLY, JAM, ETC.

Use the tart varieties or those somewhat under-ripe and
proceed as for other such preparations. The jelly resulting
is particularly beautiful.

Pomegranate wine may be made with successful results
and the fruit, seeds removed, served cooked, or fresh, with
flavouring of orange blossom—or rose-water, or cocoanut
and sugar.

CHAPTER XXVII

THE AVOCADO, ‘“AGUACATE,” OR ALLIGATOR
PEAR (Persea Gratissima: Lauracee)

HIS favourite West Indian and Southern American
fruit in form resembles a pear somewhat, hence its
popular name. It varies in size from that of a large pear,
upward. Its seed occupies rather large space, but
the melting pulp makes up for this in richness. It is
called additionally, ‘‘ Palto”’ (in Brazil) and ‘‘Midshipman’s’’
or Vegetable Butter. Its wealth of oil is given out to best
advantage of fruit and eater in salad form. The pulp is
generally left adhering to the rind in serving.

A Cuban method of preparation is as follows: The
fruit is halved before sending to the table, and cut across
with a sharp knife into little grooves into which the dress-
ing will run and thus permeate the flesh of the ‘pear.’
Then salt, red pepper, and possibly a little cinnamon are
dusted over it. Next, two mustard-spoonfuls of prepared
mustard, a tablespoonful of vinegar, and two of oil are
poured into the halves, a piece of ice placed thereon, and
the fruit set on ice that it may be thoroughly chilled
before serving.

Another method, in vogue in Mexico, is to serve the
fruit uncut, to be halved at the table. The pulp is then
rubbed smooth as butter with a spoon, and lime or lemon
juice added, with oil (one tablespoon of acid to three of
oil) and a dash of pepper and salt. By some the addition
of a little sugar is preferred. This is eaten with thin
slices of bread.
7 299

300 FRUIT RECIPES

A third method of making salad with the avocado is to
combine it with cress, a little chopped onion, radishes,
cucumbers, lettuce, beets—in varying combinations, but
always with the French dressing of oil, vinegar, salt, and
red pepper.

Still another way is to use the smooth-rubbed pulp with
a little oil (in place of the oil added to the yolk of egg for
mayonnaise), and with pepper, salt, and lemon or lime
juice to taste, serving with crisp lettuce.

The sliced fruit is sometimes used as a garnish for meat
dishes and is also served with wine, sugar, and spices;
may be peeled, sliced, and fried, or the mashed pulp used
for sandwiches with lemon juice, pepper, and salt.

CHAPTER XXVIII

THE CUSTARD APPLE, THE CHERIMOYA,
SWEET AND SOUR SOP AND POND APPLE

Anonacee

wus one exception (the wild, North American papaw)

the members of the Anonacee or Custard Apple
Family are tropical. (It must be remembered that the
North American wild papaw and the tropical papaw are
two entirely different fruits.) The fruit which bears the
family name individually, the Custard Apple, or Bullock’s
Heart (A. reticulata), resembles distantly the wild Northern
papaw. Itisdark brownin colour; roundish in form, and
is best in its natural state, thoroughly ripened, for eating,
though it may be varied by serving with sugar and cream,
with whipped eggs or by being frozen.

The Sweet Sopor Sugar Appleisthe Anona squamosa. The
“ sweet, mealy, aromatic pulp of this little fruit is sometimes
cooked in simple form but it is most delicious in its natural
state. (The seeds, powdered, will drive away fleas or other
insects.) In appearance the Sugar Apple somewhat
resembles tiny, crownless pineapples.

The Sour Sop (Anona muricata), is much larger than the
Sweet Sop, weighing up to five pounds or more, and, while
also aromatic, is somwhat tart and chiefly used in making
cold drinks, ices, etc., as it is most refreshing in effect.

The Pond Apple, A. palustris or A. glabra, or laurifolia,
sometimes mistakenly called ‘“‘the Custard Apple,”
which name properly belongs to the Bullock’s Heart, is not
as great a favourite as the other members of the family

301

302 FRUIT RECIPES

though it is a fragrant, creamy fruit, ‘‘conical, with blunt
point (not unlike a Bellflower apple in shape), and when
ripe the large stem pulls out of the fruit, leaving a hole
half-way through it.”—H. E. Van Deman.

On the other hand, A. cherimolia, the Cherimoya, or
Chiramoya, or Jamaica Apple, is the greatest favourite of
the Anonas, most delicious, and even considered to outrank
in general attractions every other known fruit save the
Mangosteen. It varies in size and weight from those no
larger than anorange to fifteen “‘pounders.” Its juicy
white pulp (containing small brown seeds) is eaten with a
spoon, uncooked. It also makes a delicious frozen dainty.

MAMMEE SAPOTA

THE MANGOSTEEN: Garcinia mangostana

MunUUOD "3 DSU sndtv00..7
LING GVaNE THL VITIGOdVS FHL

CHAPTER XXIX

THE MANGOSTEEN—THE MAMMEE APPLE
_ Garcinia Mangostana—Mammea Americana

HESE two tropical fruits are related and both of
them are extremely delicious, the Mangosteen often
being declared to be ‘‘finest fruit in the world.” In flavour
it combines the delicate yet rich qualities of the pineapple,
grape, peach, and strawberry, in form resembling somewhat
the pomegranate, though the rind is more pulpy and the
pulp itself more juicy and firm. It is at its best uncooked
and being slightly laxative may be eaten freely. It may
of course be frozen in various simple forms or used with
gelatine.

There is an African variety quite similar (Mammea
Africana).

The Mammee Apple (Mammea Americana), sometimes -
called the South American or St. Domingo or wild apricot,
is one of the standbys of tropical countries, being delicious
in flavour and very useful in its adaptability as a food.
Yellow in colour, it sometimes grows to the size of a
grape-fruit, its double rind covering a dainty interior,
although its outer covering and the seeds with their
immediately surrounding pulp are bitter. The firm,
aromatic, intermediate pulp, removed from rind and
seeds, may be eaten with no special preparation or, un-
cooked, with wine or cream and sugar. Dropped into
boiling syrup, simmered, and served cold, it is delicious,
or, pulp cooked down, sugar added in usual proportion,
and simmered till thick, made into marmalade or jam.

393

304 FRUIT RECIPES

Like the guava, it is susceptible of many variations as a
fresh food or preserve.

The Mountain Plum (Rheedia Edulis), is a relative of
the mangosteen and bears, also, edible fruit, which are
sub-acid and not unlike the ordinary plum of the tem-
perate zones

CHAPTER XXX

SAPODILLA, MAMMEE SAPOTA, WHITE
SAPOTA, STAR APPLE, COCOA PLUM AND
EGG FRUIT (or “Ti-es”)

HESE fruits come under the Sapotacee and are a
very delicious group. The Sapodilla, or Sapodilla
Plum, or ‘‘Dilly,” (Achras sapota) at first sight invariably
reminds one of a russet apple, though in flavour it is rather
a combination of pear and peach and the soft pulp is
coarse-grained. Its homely, rusty coat is a deceptive
covering for it is an excellent fruit, uncooked or preserved,
and may be treated very much as are peaches.

The Wild ‘Dilly’ (Mimusops Siebert) is a delicious,
berry-like little fruit very much liked.

The Mammee Sapota or Lucuma inammosa, has rather
unusual fruit which much varies in size—from that of a
muskmelon down to that of a goose-egg—and the bright,
reddish pulp, which has been compared to both pumpkin-
pie and to muskmelon, is eaten uncooked, just as it is.
It contains from one to three long seeds.

The White Sapota (Casimiroa edulis) is about the size
of a peach and resembles it somewhat in flavour.

The Star Apple (Chrysophyllum catnito) varies in colour
with variety, (being purple or green), described by Kingsley
as ‘‘an evergreen peach, shedding from the under side of
every leaf a golden light—call it not shade.’ It is larger,
however, more like an apple in form and smoothness of
skin. Its star-shaped core contains numerous brown seeds,
rather large and flat. The flavour is somewhat peculiar,

395

306 FRUIT RECIPES

but the apple may be varied in preparation. Its pulp
mixed with orange juice is in Jamaica called “‘ Matrimony.”

The Cocoa Plum (Chrysobolanus icaco), with its pink
and white fruit, was so named because the seeds were
thought to resemble the cocoanut in form and the fruit the
common plum.

The egg Fruit (Lucuma rivicoa), called in Key West
“Ti-ess” or “Ti-es,”’ is like a small Mammee Sapota and
considered equally delicious. .-

CHAPTER XXXI

SIX OF THE MORE FAMILIAR TROPICAL AND
SEMI-TROPICAL FRUITS

HE mango (Mangifera Indica) is one of the most
delicious and one of the most maligned of tropical
fruits, this state of affairs arising because of the unpleasant
fibrous nature of several varieties and the unmistakable
turpentine flavour of some of them which have unfortun-
‘ately been put upon the market stringy and unripe. The
best mangoes are almost as delicate as perfect pineapples
and contain much food value. Not only is this fruit sus-
ceptible of being cooked in numerous ways and eaten fresh,
made into wine and various preserves, but starch and
glucose are manufactured from the mango and when ani-
mals of the lower world are given it as a staple food they
flourish. The fruit is truly exceedingly juicy and it is

sometimes said that it should be eaten only in one’s bath- ,
tub, in consequence, but where the mango grows in the
greatest luxuriance and it is properly understood and used
one may procure the regular mango-fork, a three pronged
affair of which the middle prong is long and projecting, to
be so imbedded that the fruit will not slip. Otherwise,
the mango may be sliced before serving with wine, sugar
and nutmeg. It may also be simply stewed. Before
maturity it may be pickled or preserved, as well as at later
stages. The kernels of the seeds are sometimes roasted

and eaten like chestnuts.
The Tropical Papaw (Carica papaya) is a very interest-
ing and valuable tree as well as fruit. The form of the
3°7

308 FRUIT RECIPES

_ tree is more nearly that of a palm than anything else and
the leaves resemble those of both the castor bean and fig,
being curiously cut, large and graceful. They have a
singular and valuable power in their action upon meat
fibre in which quality the rind of the papaw shares: When
the rind is rubbed over the toughest meat or the meat is
wrapped for a few hours in the leaves the offending tough-
ness entirely disappears. The fruit juice has remarkable
stomachic qualities and Joseph Jefferson was a noted ex-
ample of the claim that the tropical papaw is a cure for
dyspepsia. In form the fruit is rather a cross between the
banana and the muskmelon. It may be prepared for
cookery, like the coarser vegetables of northern climates,
before it quite reaches maturity; eaten uncooked, it must
be thoroughly ripened to be acceptable to the palate.
(This fruit is not in the least related to the Northern papaw.)

‘Prickly Pear’ is rather an indefinite term as there are
over one hundred and fifty members of this, the Opuntia,
of the Cactacee. The yellow-fruited O. Ficus-Indiea and
the O. tuna, which bears purple-red fruit, are perhaps best
known and are very commonly used for eating uncooked or
stewed with some other fruit, as lemon or pineapple, for
flavouring, or preserves. The fruit, though sub-acid, has
with many varieties not distinct enough a tone to render it
extremely popular though it is very refreshing and cooling
and the mucilaginous quality, which is not unpleasant, is
considered healing. The purple-fruited prickly pear is
often used for colouring in desserts and preserves.

The Granadilla and ‘“‘May-Pop’’ are members of the
Passifloracee, edible fruits of the passion vine. The May-
pop, Passiflora incarnata, grows wild in the Southern States,
but it is little known that it makes a beautiful and delicate
jelly. It is a smaller edition of the Passiflora edulis and
the Passiflora quadrangularis, two varieties of granadilla,

SIX FAMILIAR FRUITS 399

some of the latter of which grow to the size of a small
melon. It was named, it is said, by the early Spaniards
for the pomegranate, or “granada.” It is often served
uncooked with wine and sugar. Where jelly is made of
this or the May-pop, the ripe fruit, halved across, should
be covered with cold water, adding about one-third the
quantity of well filled out but still immature, green-skinned
fruit. Cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour, then add
a little cold water and simmer again for an hour. Strain
off the juice (which should by this time be well cooked
down), and proceed as for ordinary fruit jelly. (See
previous recipes.) Marmalade may be made by using the
pulp of the fruit, putting through a colander or sieve, cook-
ing down, and adding sugar. The resulting colour of jelly
or marmalade is a pale yellow.

The famous Tamarind Tree (Tamarindus Indica) has
delicate leaves and pink and white flowers succeeded by
edible pods which are preserved and used in confections,
beverages, and medicinally. The acid of the fresh tamarind
is very pleasing, and is a combination of citric, malic,
formic, butyric, and tartaric acids, the tartness being
given chiefly by the citric. The laxative and cooling
qualities make the tamarind considered of much value in
many cases of illness and certainly in the prevention of it.
Tamarinds are usually shipped from the East or West
Indies in some form of preserve though with a little more
care it is said they might be had more abundantly in the
market in fresh form, if the shell or pod were prevented
from breaking, for with this natural protection they keep
well for some months. With the pods removed the tama-
rind may be preserved by pouring boiling syrup over the
fruit or by placing in stone jars with alternate layers of
sugar. They may be also candied and made into syrup
for use in various summer drinks, though now known chiefly

310 FRUIT RECIPES

as a valued drink in fevers. The tamarind perhaps may
be likened to the lemon and also somewhat to the grape.
It has a good percentage of bitartrate of potassa, its other
components (besides the acids) being gum, pectin, water,
and pulpy matter.

The Bread Fruit Tree (Artocarpus incisa, or A. com-
munis) bears for eight months in succession its generous
balls of pulp which are so useful as a food to so many
tropical peoples. It is prepared in various ways for eating,
one of the most common methods being to bake it with a
bit of fat meat in the centre of the fruit. It tastes
something like potato as well as somewhat resembling
bread.

THE PRICKLY PEAR

MAMMEE APPLE OR ST. DOMINGO APRICOT

TANOAVE HSINVdS JO Linda @IddV dO LON MAHSVO

a}

x.
hs

4

CHAPTER XXXII

SOME OF THE LESS KNOWN FRUITS

HE Otaheite and Spanish or Barbadoes_ goose-
berries are ‘“‘gooseberries’”? by courtesy only, al-
though the resemblance is not strained. The former,
Cicca disticha (C. racemosa), is a tree whose berries are
white and waxy, growing in clusters, the tree, leaves, and
berries all being very ornamental. The ‘‘gooseberries”
are extremely acid and very acceptable at their season of
ripening: the height of summer. The Spanish, or
Barbadoes Gooseberry, the Pereskia aculeata, or Lemon
Vine, is a climbing cactus with exquisite blossoms which
resemble miniature pond lilies, and fruit of pleasing
tartness. (The blossoms, however, give out an unpleasant
musty odour.) The berries may be used in many
different ways, bringing out their refreshing flavour in
natural state or for culinary purposes.

The Spanish Lime, or Ginep (Melicocca bijuga) has an
edible fruit resembling the Northern plum in appearance but
with rather a grape flavour, both pulp and seeds being
edible, the latter sometimes roasted and eaten like chest-
nuts.

The Sea Grape or Shore Grape of the West Indies, the
Coccoloba uvifera, is not a vine but a broad-leaved, bushy
tree or plant with purple-red fruits of agreeable flavour,
susceptible of varied preparation.

The Ceriman or Monstera deliciosa is sometimes called
the ‘‘false bread-fruit,’’ but its distinction should rest
entirely upon itself for the tall, spreading plant with large,

Bil

312 FRUIT RECIPES

curiously shaped leaves bears a most delicious fruit, cone-
like in form, whose flavour is singularly delightful, a com-
bination of pineapple and banana both as to taste and pulp-
consistency, though far more aromatic than either. The
lignt, husky skin is not unlike the pineapple in its markings,
though very tender and readily removed.

The Kai Apple (Aberia Cajffra), from Natal, is a large,
edible fruit which makes an excellent preserve.

The Carissa carandas or ‘‘Caraunda,” the Carissa arduina
and C. acuminata, are also Natal fruits, known variously
as “Amatungulu”’ and ‘‘Amatungula”’ and ‘‘Maritzgula.”
The Carissa arduina resembles both a cherry and
raspberry, having a thin, deep-red skin, and tiny seeds
(larger than the fruits it resembles), and makes a delicious
preserve though equally good uncooked.

The ‘Strawberry Pear” (Cereus triangularis) is a rela-
tive of the Night-blooming Cereus, and its “‘scaly buds,”
called ‘‘Godochro”’ in Jamaica, are used in making the tooth-
‘some ‘‘pepper-pot”’ of the West Indies. The “ pear” itself
is pleasing but not more pronounced than many other
fruits of the cacti.

The ‘‘Melon Pear’ or Pepino, sometimes called also
“Melon Shrub” is one of the edible Solanums, described
by Mr. Grelech of Los Angeles, who introduced it there
from Guatemala, as resembling ‘‘in many respects the
Chili pepper vine, the tomato, or the nightshade. . . . The
fruit is of the size of a hen or goose egg or even larger,
and very much of the same shape. . . . The interior of the
fruit is a solid pulp similar to that of a pear, also of a pale
yellow colour and of a taste resembling that of a fine musk-
melon, but which has besides a charming acid, so whole-
some and delicious that when the fruit is partaken of on
a very warm day it allays the thirst for several hours.”
It is in colour lemon, streaked with violet.

SOME LESS KNOWN FRUITS 313

The ‘Tree Tomato” of Jamaica is another Solanum
(S. betaceum), which is grown over much of the world for its
purplish-red fruit which, uncooked, and fully ripe is not un-
like a gooseberry, or, stewed with sugar, an apricot, though
more tart. It is used as is the tomato and is about the
same size though oval rather than rounding.

The Cashew Apple or Nut (Anacardium occidentale)
bears its seeds outside of the pulp and both parts are used
as food, the nut being roasted like chestnuts or used for
flavouring, in the making of chocolate or wine. Itis said,
however, that care must be taken in roasting the kernel,
as from its thin covering a peculiar vapour rises which is
apt to affect the skin. The pulp or stalk of the fruit
proper is pleasantly tart and varies in both colour and
size radically.

The red fruit of the Akee Tree, the Cupania sapida, is
not considered quite safe to eat uncooked, but cooked,
stewed, or otherwise prepared, is both palatable and
wholesome.

The Mangrove, or Riuzophora, one of the hour-glass-like
guardians of the seashore in the tropics, has an edible fruit,
sweet and pleasant in flavour, which may be varied in
preparation; and the juice, fermented, makes an acceptable
light wine.

The Carambola (Averrhoa carambola) is also sometimes
called the Coromandel Gooseberry in India. It is curiously
formed, with five distinct ribs or angles; has a thin, smooth
coat, generally yellow in colour, and is about the size of a

‘duck-egg. The flavour ranges from sweet to acid so that
it is used variously, for desserts or preserves, cooked or not
as rendered necessary by its flavour.

The Averrhoa Bilimbt, or Blimbling, is a similar fruit but
generally more acid. The leaves of both resemble those of
the sensitive plant in irritability.

314 FRUIT RECIPES

The Emblic Myrobolan (Phyllanthus emblica) is a beauti-
ful plant with delicate leaves, a fruit similar to the plum
and equally edible in simple or preserved form.

The Durian or Durion (Durio zibethinus: Nat. Ord.
Sterculiacee), is a remarkable Malay fruit. The tree is tall
and spreading, the fruit, rounding yet oval, ‘‘the size of a
man’s head,” is light green and covered with spines. It
takes nine months to ripen and the odour from it is very
offensive to Europeans till accustomed to it. The creamy
pulp, somewhat like a strawberry in flavour, is delicious
and contains large seeds, edible when roasted.

The Nephelium longanum, or Longan Tree, is hand-
somely leaved and clustered with fruit, the latter having
one large seed in the centre with sweet, translucent pulp
surrounding it. It is a near relative of the famous Chinese
nut-tree, the Nephelium Litcht (or Leechee), which loses
its pink colour (of pulp) when dried and so reaches other
countries in brown, shrivelled form.

The Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo) is semi-tropical
but will grow as far north as Ireland. The tree, flowers and
berries are all very ornamental and from the edible fruit
both sugar and a fermented liquor are made. In Italy and
Spain the berries are much liked.

The Otaheite Apple, or Spondias dulcis, is a fruit-
bearing tree whose ‘‘apples’’ are in colour and size like
small oranges and in flavour resemble the pineapple.

The Otaheite Plum, or ‘‘Jamaica” or ‘‘Hog-Plum”
(Spondias lutea or S. cytheria) is related to the Otaheite
Apple but its fruit more nearly resembles the larger Loquat
(‘Japan Plum”’).

The Ximenia Americana is also often called the ‘‘ Hog-
Plum”’ and is also an edible, though a smaller fruit.

The Adansonia digitata or ‘‘Baobob,’’ known best in
Africa, is commonly called ‘‘Monkey’s Bread.’’ The oval

MARIND

THE TA

TAMARIND TREE

MULGOBA MANGO

SOME LESS KNOWN FRUITS 315

fruit is nearly afoot long. The pulp, which is ‘‘a little fari-
naceous, mixed with fibres,’’ is tart and wholesome and
so distinctly refrigerant that it is often given fever
patients.

The Bengal Quince, Elephant Apple, or Apple-boom

(Aegle marmelos) is related to the Citrus fruits and its
leaves and manner of growth resemble different Citrus
varieties.
- The “Bacury” of Brazil (Platonia insignis) has a rather
tart pulp containing a few seeds, the whole covered by. a
hard, smooth rind or shell of a gay yellow hue. The most
costly preserves of some parts of Brazil are made, it is said,
from this cocoanut-like ‘‘Bacury.” °

The Chilian Myrtle (Myrtus ugin) has a soft, juicy, red-
brown fruit, in appearance rather like a ‘“‘large, black
currant.” It is patticularly used, uncooked, ag a simple
dessert fruit or in cooling drinks and is delightfully
aromatic.

The Capuassa (Deltonia luctea) is a Brazilian fruit tree
with extremely heavy foliage and a large-seeded, yellow-
meated fruit covered witha hard shell of rough, semewhat
furry appearance. Rand says, in describing the strained,
crushed, and diluted pulp of this wonderfully fragrant fruit,
that the resulting drink, called by courtesy wine, ‘“‘is worth
a voyage across the Atlantic.’’.

The Peach ‘‘Palm” (Guielma speciosa) bears a fruit
somewhat resembling the apricot, but triangular in form
rather than oval. It is used more like a potato, or the
cassava, or bread fruit, resembling also somewhat the
Spanish chestnut when roasted or otherwise prepared, its
ground meal often being made into bread or cakes for
baking.

The Madagascar Voa-vanga (Vangueria edulis) pro-
duces edible berries nearly an inch in diameter.

316 FRUIT RECIPES

The Antidesma bunins, a fruit of Java, produces a
berry which is red before reaching maturity, when it turns
black. It is rather tart and excellent for preserves.

A Japanese tree, the Hovenia dulcis, bears a sweet,
fleshy and aromatic little fruit of fine flavour.

The Tropical Almond, Terminalia catappa, is not an
almond save in name, though it has oily, edible seeds which
are used like nuts.

The Jujube (Zizyphus), which has given its name to the
famous confection, Jujube Paste (which latter, however,
is usually made merely of gum-arabic and sugar and is quite
innocent of the Jujube ingredient) has a number of in-
teresting members, among them the true Lotus. The fruit
of the common Jujube (J. vulgaris) is not unlike an olive
or a date and is ordinarily red, though sometimes yellow,
in colour. It is dried and sold as a sweetmeat, so delicious
is it in flavour. Also, it is much eaten uncooked, as a
dessert-fruit in some places. The Jujube contains a large
amount of nourishment and is considered of value medic-
inally for its demulcent properties.

The Sorrel or Roselle Berry (Jamaica Sorrel: Hibiscus
subdariffa) is a rival of the currant and mulberry as a
jelly-maker. With its juice, however, use only about
three-fourths pound of sugar to a pint of juice. The
calyxes of the sorrel may be preserved and the young
leaves cooked as ‘‘greens.’’ The colour of the jelly is apt
to fade in strong light so the glasses should be wrapped in
newspaper and placed in a cool, dark spot.

The Spanish Bayonet of the South, belonging to the
Yuccas (Yucca baccata) has a magnificent flower stalk
rising from the centre of its tall, spiny column, which is
‘succeeded by an equally imposing cluster of curious
fruit with thick, tender rind and seeds. The juicy pulp
may be prepared for cooking in similar fashion to apples,
to which it bears a not distant resemblance in flavour.

SOME LESS KNOWN FRUITS 317

There are two plants which deserve mention among
the fruits from the value to mankind of their roots: the
Caladium esculenta, and the Zingiber officinalis, or
Ginger Plant.

The Caladium esculenta is one of the most commonly
cultivated of all Caladiums but its leaves Hterally and
figuratively overshadow its roots, and the riches of the
latter remain undreamed of. It is a very starchy food,
considered of more value than [rish potatoes but may be
prepared in cookery in much the same way. The Cocco
Root, or ‘‘Eddoes,” of the genus Colocasia, of the same
natural order (Araceae) as the Caladiums, is much culti-
vated for the food value of numerous varieties in the South
Seas, in the Himalayas, and in tropical America. Some
of the Cocco varieties are a little acrid before cooking and
in the raw state rather stimulating. The Caladium, how-
ever, is mild.

The virtues and delights of the Ginger Root are as famil-
iar as the alphabet whether considered medicinally or
culinarily. It is supposed to have been imported originally
from India to Africa and the West Indies. The roots are
generally dug when about a year old, cleaned and scalded,
then dried and shipped, though the ‘‘green” ginger is also
an article of ecommerce. The favourite form of ginger is of
course, the preserve or confection, and for either one the
young, tender roots must be used. (It may be mentioned
that the roots of the ‘‘Shell Lily, the “Alpinia nutans
may be preserved or candied with similar results.) The
following are old recipes which may be successfully used
with Ginger Root.

PRESERVED GINGER

Scrape the young, green roats and weigh them, allowing
equal weight of sugar. Boil each separately, the ginger

318 FRUIT RECIPES

until tender enough to be pierced with a wooden splinter,
and the sugar with water and cream of tartar until it forms
asyrup. (Allow a half pint of water and a half teaspoon of
cream of tartar to each pound of sugar.) Skim the syrup
well; place the ginger in it and when it has boiled up well
place in jars and seal.

This may be varied in flavour by adding lemon, orange,
or other fruit as flavouring. To every three pounds of
ginger allow at least the juice of one lemon and rind, and
for each pint additional of lemon juice add one pound of
sugar.

CANDIED GINGER

See Candied Cherries and the Kumquat.

GINGER VINEGAR

For each quart of strong vinegar allow two ounces of
crushed white ginger and let stand two months, when
strain, bottle, and cork well.

GINGER WINE No. r (Old Recipe)

Allow twelve ounces of bruised ginger to nine gallons of
soft water and boil till well-flavoured, when add eighteen
pounds of sugar. Let dissolve and partially cool when
add a little hop-yeast. When clear rack off and bottle
at once. ,

GINGER WINE No. 2 (Old Recipe)

To ten gallons of soft water add fifteen pounds of “‘loaf-
sugar clarified with the whites of six eggs,” and one-half
pound of sliced and bruised white ginger. When this has
boiled one-half hour stir into it the thin-peeled yellow rind
of a dozen lemons and let stand till cool. Then add a
gill of yeast, first, however, reserving two quarts of the
mixture in which must be dissolved two ounces of

SOME LESS KNOWN FRUITS 319
\
isinglass. When dissolved mix with the other liquor; stir
well and let stand twelve hours, when the bung should be
closed. Bottle in three weeks and in four months it will
be ready to use.

GINGER EXTRACT.

Cover two ounces of bruised ginger root with one-half
pint of pure grain alcohol. Let stand till the spirit is
impregnated thoroughly with the spice when strain and
bottle for flavouring.

REMINGTON’S ANALYSES OF FRUITS

., | Pectinous| _Albu-
p : Sugar | Free Acid es| . Minous
Kinds of Fruit Per cent. | Per cent. ee Substances
Apple........ aie aes aeeabigu 7toz10} $tor 5 5
‘Apricot Dilcvaresess cane tuaticnests 1to2 4tor | sto1o] f$tor
eer Sdese Gfaine Sugsanszave ota
Rubus Villosus.............
“Canadensis. Bal - 1 to 14 bi
8 Priviats weiss sues eo
led (Vac. Resinosum).. 5 I 4 i
Lapis eawass Meigen SeRee eS 8 to 13 I 4 to 3 3 to 3
eRe (red). saitsPned Reabew Ye 4to7 1 to2 4 to}
Gooseberry .............4. ....| 6t08 1} £to2
POAC croncinsiapetidnatiisine aessiecte's 4 6
po wistena sh tcneheseccrodonseicusensase vi 3
nea pple ss cecdscemonueeeniony ove I
Bhi vais@ieausun aunt whines os tto2 | $tor | 2torr 3
Raspberry (Rubus Idoeus)...| 3 to 5 I 2tos I
Strawberry ..............00- 3 t07 I 2 4

ANALYSES OF FRUITS: U.S. DISPENSATORY:
WOOD & BACHE

Barberry:

Per cent.
Malic acid............- 5.92
Sugar sissy esse asayreess 4.67
Gums see sans ese saee 6.61
Water 5.5 ca veceiis's ones 67.16

Salts, Potassa, and
Lami: ieccineselecress .06

Mulberry: (Analysis of H. Van |

Heese):
Per cent.
Glucose and uncrys-
tallisable sugar..... 9.19

Free acid (supposed
to be malic and tar-

PATIC) ks cower eves eee 1.86

SH ikea a iean sweats ence V.57
Album. matter........ 0.39
Pectic « S$ -fa ts,

salts, and gum...... 2.03

ALOR vise certs wane tate 84.71
Insoluble matter as

seeds, pectose, cellu-

lose, etc............. 1.25

Fig: (Grape-sugar, gum, and
mucilage. Koenig’s Anal.)

Per cent.

Water onc sccanesinass ec 31.20

Nitrogenous material. 4.01

Sugar. es cscs danse ceed 49-79

Ashes ccctci wander est 2.86

Reckoned on the weight of
absolutely dry material the ni-

trogenous material: 5.75%;
sugar: 72.56%.
Prune: Koenig’s Analysis.

(Contains uncrystallisable
sugar, malic acid, and muci-
laginous matter).

Per cent.

Water scien: cases cous 29.30

Nitrogenous mat..... 2.50

Fab oe asiadcas ated ocaanes é 53

Sugar lees cence cee 4.35

Other nit. free mat.. us 89

Free acid.............. 2.72
Woody fibre (not in-

cluding stone)....... 1.48

Ds ctiowiaw webeog seen e4% 1.38

FRESH FRUITS. AVERAGE COMPOSITION*

NoRTHERN

. Car- Fuel -

Food Materials Refuse} Water |Protein| Fat Les Ash —
Per Ct.|Per Ct.) Per Ct.\Per Ct.\Per Ct.|Per Ct.jpound

Apples............ 25. 163.3 | .3 3 «10.8 53 Tgo
Grapes ........... 25. 58.0 |1.0 1.2 14.4 4 205
Muskmelons...... 50. 44:8 | a3 |eiswsss 4.6 3 80
Watermelon...... 59.4 137-5 2 I 2.7 I 50
P@arss: wos ie isaess 10,0 |76.0 5 4 12.7 4 230
N. Persimmons..j....... 66.1 8 7 131.5 9 550

(edible portion)
Raspberries......]....... 85.8 [1.0 J... 12.6 .6 220
Strawberries ..... 5. |85.9 9 6 7.0 6 150
Dried.

Applesivssicxesexlercices 28.1 }1.6 |2.2 [66.1 | 2.0 | 1185
Apricots..........}....... 29.4 |4.7 1.0 |62.5 | 2.4 | 1125
Raisins ........... 10,00 |13.1 |2.3 3.0 {68.5 3-1 | 1265

* Extracts from Table 1, Farmers’ Bulletin, No. 142. Principles of Nutrition
and Nutritive Value of Food. (Rev. Ed.) By W. O. Atwater, Ph. D., Special Agent
in Charge of Nutrition Investigations Office of Experiment Station.

TROPICAL AND SEMI-TROPICAL FRUITS

ae Car- Fuel
Food Materials Refuse} Water |Protein} Fat eye Ash value
Per Ct.|Per Ct.|Per Ct.|Per Ct.|Per Ct.|Per Ct.lpound
Banana........... 35-00 148.9 8 4 | 14.3 6 260
Orange........... 27.00 |63.4 6 I 8.5 4 150
Guavaf........... 13.2 [69.43 | -98| .5 | 14.41] .34] 321
jap. Persimmon.]....... 66.1 80} .7 | 32.50] .9 550
@MON.......-.--- 30.00 {62.5 7 5 5-9 4 I25
Cocoanut......... 48.008] 7.2 2.9 |25.9 | 14.3 9 | 1295
le Prep....|.......| 3-5 | 6.3 [57-4 | 31-5 | 1.3 | 2865
“ Milkf ..}....... 92.7 4] 1.5 4.6] 8 342
Alligator pear
(edible portion)}]....... 81.1 | 4.0 |r0.2 6.8] 0.9 |.....-
Surinam cherry f]....... 85.0 wae |lseccwas aiz.g| .7 |.-----
Roselle: ¢
Cal yo ore csiciiie ee Peaeeiins 86.5 | 2.1 3 10.3 Be Views
Pod siijiscasctgarss| eagenk? 84.0 | 1.7 | 1.0 | 12.2] an |.....-
Ex. from calyx..|....... gi.2 oan (eee by.2] .7 |...
Ex. from pods..|....... 93-7 | 1-5 eee a ny on
Dried Fruits:
Dates............- 10.00 |13.8 1.9 2.5 7o.6 | 1.2 | 1275
PIGS! oi 0s Bache ca] canted 18.8 4.3 3 74.2 | 2.4 | 1280

+ Guava and Cocoanut Milk data from M. E. Jaffa’s report. Bulletin No, 132.
Guava—Additional: Crude Fibre, 1.14 per cent.

From Farmers’ Bulletin, No. 169.

Including ro per cent. invert sugar, 10.1 per cent. total sugar.

Including 1.6 per cent. sugar.

¢ Including 1 per cent. sugar.

Tae

32r

FOOD MATERIALS.

ComPosiITION DETERMINED

(AVERAGE EDIBLE PORTION)*

Pro- Carbohydrates 6 38 F
Refuse|Water| tein | Fat Ash (883 &
Fresh Fruits Nx6 25 creer Cmde a 9 B 5
Per Ct.|Per Ct.| Per Ct.|PerCt.| Per Ct.|Per Ct.| Per Ct. | Calories
Apples....... 86.21] So] .27/11.87| .88) .27|) .257
Bananas.... 77.15| 1.60] .24/19.68) .52) .81 424
Grapes...... 85.95] -70] .33|12.20] .48] .33 -271
Oranges 86.49] 1.26] .18/10.84] .6o} .63 -250
PEATS .s sssans arene ¢ 80.92| -99| -47/15-73| 2-47] -43 -360
Jap. Persimmon..}...... 80.21] 1.36] .57/15.13| 2.08} .65] .384
OVS a5 ob dpovarsee oat] 2 Seve 67. 2.48/17.07} 5.67] 3.35] 4-43] -8907
Scarlet Haws......]...... 75.83] 1.98] .65|18.57| 2.13] .84] .468
Watermelon......|...... g2.17| .87| .r0] 6.4r] .18) .27| .148
RAISINS. isc eviggen s|oeeves 28.47| 4-55| -61/62.57| .66/ 3.14] 1.336
Prunes) sinsss sears |tpeses 29.14| 2.54| -59/63.37| 1.65] 2.71] 1.292
Canned Peaches..}...... 86.45] .55|------ 12.20] .37| .43] -247
Cocoanuts.........]....5- 19.07] 5.25] -51| 9.67/13.77| 1-14] 2.712
Composition ASSUMED
7 Pro- Carbohydrates 6 of
‘ Refuse|Water| tein | Fat jo 7,4 | Ash |gou
Fresh Fruits Nx625 epee ence ae bs
Per Ct.| Per Ct.\Per Ct.|Per Ct.| Per Ct.| Per Ct.| Per Ct.| Calories
Canteloupe........|...... 89.5| 6 |...... 7.2 | 2.1 .6.[ 408
' Pomegranates....]...... 76.8| 1.5 | 1.6 |16.8 | 2.7 .6 | 1.014
epee (ried)... saul 29-4] 4.7 | 1.00/62.5 |...... 2.4 | 2.844
Figs...... 22.7) 4.3 -7 162.5 | 8.5 | 1.3 | 3.098
Dates... 38.2| 2.9 +3 |55.0 | 2.2 | 1.4 |. 2.494
Strawberries......|...... 90.4] 1.0 6 | 6.0/1.4 | .6 +397
Raspberries, red..|...... 86.4| 1.5 |...... DEF Sv sssecor 4 540
Apple Sauce......]...... 61.1] .2 5B 3722 owas ss 7 | 1.609

* Composition of Food Materials Used in Dietary Studies and Digestion Exper-
iments (Table12). M. E. Jaffa, M. S., Cal., Agr. Experimental Station, rgo1-2.

322

TABLE 56.—Comparative cost of total nutrients and energy in di}-
ferent food materials at average prices

a Amounts fo 10 Cents
q| 7% eid g
5 ! 8 5 [] 8 a8 G E
Kind of Food Material ts a8 5 ba) 3 J 5
3 q pe f| 8 |Fat| 2
a} ee | £8 lau] g| a
g}] eu | Be $8 Ay a A
ape | 8 es é
Fresh Fruits: Cts. | Dollars | Cents | Lbs. | Lbs. | Lbs.| Lbs. Car
Apples e.siicccsccsesoncs: 14] 5.00] 7.30/6.67] .02} .02] .72/1,467
Apricots ............... 3 | 3.00] 12.8 ]3.33] -03]--.--| -42] 849
Bananas................ 7 8.75] 23.3 |1.43] .Oz]..---] .21] 429
Canteloupes ........... 34] 11.67] 38.9 |2.86] .or].....] .13] 257
Cherries................ 4 4.45] 11.6 |2.50] .02] .02] .go] 862
PAGS 5. is 2 sctizpovestionas ec ehcuces 7 4.67] 18.4 |1.43] .02]....-| .27| 543
Grapes ..............0.. 4 4.00] II.g [2.50] -03} .03] .36] 837
LEMONS eiicceeecegie vee. 7 | 10.00] 48.3 |1.43] .or].....] .o8] 207
DAMES 5 4 ¢ sess ees sous 24| 3.57] 17-2 |4.00] .03] .02] .24] 580
Nectarines............. 8 | 13.33] 28.1 |x.25] .or].....] .r9] 356
Oranges.............46. 6 | 10.00] 35.2 |1.67| .or|.....! .14] 284
OUVES: s.scss eecwes ott 10 | 4.90] 13.6 |1.00] .o2-.14] .07| 737
Peaches ................ 4 | 8.00} 25.4 |2.50] .or|....-] .r9] 398
PATS coc acc s annette 3 6.00] 11.5 |3.33] .02] .o1] .42] 866
Persimmons............ 10 | 9.62] 34.3 |r.00} .or]..... .13| 292
Pineapples............. 4] 9.76] 3.8 |2.50] .or].....| .13] 263
Plums, «isss0s sian coe. 3 3.33) 8.1 |3.33| -03]-.--.| .64]1,232
PrUMeS iis snore ents eae: 3 | 4.29] 9.0 |3.33] .02].....] .58/2,115
Pomelos .............. 5 | 8.33] 28.4 |2.00] .or}.....) .17] 352
Pomegranates......... Io 6.66| 21.7 |1.00] .02] .02] .20] 460
Watermelons.......... tz] 7.50] 25.0 16.67] .or].....] .18] 400
Dried Fruits: ;
Applesin wise. vascadenccs 12 7-50] 8.9 | .83] .o1| .o2] .55]1,121
Apricots................ Io 2.13] 7.75|1.00] .05] .o1| .63]/1,290
Citron: ss iiisciies yeas 3 6.00}' 1.97|3.33| -02] .05]2.60/5,078
Currants tcirs ada cece Io 4.17| 6.7 |z.00] .02] .o2] .74/1,495
Dates csatis <sheak cuss be) 5.26] 6.9 |x.00] .02] .03] .71|1,450
Bigstac usemesagicnrs eee 15 | 3-50] 10.2 | .67] .o3].....] so] 988
PGATS 3232 ced tesa ewes 12 4.28] 7.4 | .83] .02] .04] .61/1,357
Peaches ................ 15 3.06] 10.8 | .67] .03].....| .45] 926
PRUNES 6 cae s ccntenesies Io 5-56] 8.4 |1.00] .02].....] .62]/1,190
Raisins bic ided lance Fie) 4-35| 6.9 |1.00] .02] .03] .69/1,445
Jams, Preserves, etc.
Apple sicieg: 2s sietevenas 16 | 91.43] 13-8 | .62].....].....1 .39| 727
Apple sauce............ 16 | 53.33] 40.5 | .62].....].....] .12] 245
Apricot sauce.......... 16 | 8.42] 16.0 | .62] .o1] .or} .30] 620
Currant siccsiec cscs csc 16 | 16.00] 11.9 | .62].....1.....[ .44] 836
CHELEY se osetia ie oie eieorcnrae 16 | 32.00] 12.1 | .62].....].....] .44] 823
Currant and raspberry|16 | 26.66] 12.8 | .62].....].....] .42| 781
Blackberry ............ 16 | 20.00] 26.2 | .62].....].....] .43] 378

323

TABLE 56.—Continued

Amounts for 10 Cents

YJ
s| ov a
g| 2 | eB lag g
Kind of Food Material s| &€ | 2 8 Bal § 3 B
a! we 23 La 2 ne s a
g] = | BR |s8] ™ a a
alee es é
Jams, Preserves, etc. Cts.\ Dollars | Cents. | Lbs. | Lbs. | Lbs. | Lbs. lo
Damson..........+++554 16] 32.00] 13.0 | .62].....]..... -41| 768
Gooseberry ............ 16| 32.00] 13.2 | .62].....]-...- -40] 752
ADO? sais carton sudo esac’ 16] 40.00] 12.7 | .62].....].-..- -42| 780
Figs (stewed).......... 16| 13.33] 20.4 | .62] .or]..... -25| 487
Orange marmalade....} 16] 26.66! to0.1 | .62].....]..... -52| 983
Pineapple marmalade.| 16] 53.33] 12.7 | .62}.....|-..-- -42| 785
Prune sauce...........- 16} 32.00] 37.2 | .62]..... -14| 267
Peach jam.. 16| 32.00] 13.0 | .62]..... -41| 766
Pear jam.... 16] 53.33] 14.2 | .62}.....]-...- 38] 707
Pineapple.............. 16] 40.00] 12.7 | .62].....].-..- -42| 781
Plum............--6.-4. 16] 22.85] 12.6 | .62].....]..... -42| 786
QUINCE sie eaten cance see 16] 53.33] 12.8 | .62]. 42) 778
Strawberry............. 16| 26.67] 12.0 | .62]. -44| 833
Tomato jam........... 16] 14.56) 13.8 | .62].....].-... -38| 722
Raspberry ............- 16] 22.85] 12.3 | .62]. .43] 810
Jellies:
ADPple wcecvseeiccnanieae. 16] 53.33] 12.2 | .62].....|-.... 43} 812
Barberry.. 16] 32.00] 13.5 | .62]..... -40] 742
Blackberry 16} 66.67] 14.6 | .62].....].-... -37| 684
Cherry, first qua 16] 14.56] 11.0 | .62].....]..... -48] go2
Crab apple............. 16} 40.00] 13.1 | .62]. -4I| 764
Currant iscccis cscs exes 16| 40.00] 13.4 | .62]. -40| 744
Grape..............006- 16} 53-33] 13-r | .62]. -40] 745
Guava......... ccc eee eee 16] §3.33| 10.5 | .62].....]..... +51] 952
Huckleberry........... 16[228.57] 13.8 | .62].....].-... -39| 724
Pineapple.............. 16] 40.00] 13.0 | .62].....J.-... -41| 771
Peach. 16] 80.00] 13.2 | .62].....]..... 40] 755
PHA ssnsisineiecdiers Gaseieis s xt0 16] 32.00] 13.7 | .62].....].-... +39] 732
Orange 16| 80.00} 10.3 | .62].....]..... 39] 967
Pear....... 16} 100.00] 12.6 | .62]. -43) 794
Quince 16| 80.00) 13.3 | .62].....|..... -40| 750
redacted 5 Rasa celeste e 40.00] 13.3 | .62].....]..... .40] 753
rawberry ............ I : 13. -62 ;
Canned Pres: ieee Wet fk aa) 138
Apricots ............66. 16) 17.78) 47.1 | .62| .onj..... II] 211
Oherries................ 16] 14.56] 38.9 | .62].....]..... -13| 257
PRAMS iasteied cigs eases 16] 53-33] 45.5 | -62].....}..... II] 220
Peaches............0... 16; 20.00] 53.2 | .62 .og| 188
pea ass erase abate x4 16] 29.10] 28.6 | .62].....]..... 12| 350
es:
Apple (fall pippin) ....} 20] 37.04|140.8 | .so].....f..... .03) 71
Blackberry ............ 20) §7.14)133.3 | .go).....|..... 04) 75

TABLE 56.—Continued

‘ e es Amounts for ro Cents
el v
3) 2. | °38 1g elie
Kind of Food Material | 38 “Ee Ise! € ‘| 8 B
gs) «se | 3 Fe) S| rot] S| §
a S a oo az 2 Ss a
ge | ge oat 2/4
a |S an hak 5
jumees: Cts.| Dollars| Cents | Lbs.| Lbs.| Lbs.| Lbs.| Cairs.
Crab apple............- 20|/250.00] 200.0] .50]. 0.03] 50
Grape (Ives seedling)..} 20] 83.33] 128.2| .50].....|..... .04| 78
Orange (Florida navel)! 20] 34.48) 181.8] .50}. 03] 55
GACH 5 wees cnesisaaceee 20] 90.91| 126.6] .5o}. -04) 79
Pear (Bartlett)......... 20|222.22| 96.2] .5o}.....J..... .06| 104
Pineapple............-- 20] 54.05) 83.3] -So]- .06| - 120
Plum (Damson)........ 20) 46.51| 88.5} .5o) .06] 113
Plum (wild fox).......- 20/142.85| ror.o] .5o].....]..... 05] 99
Mixed Fruit..........-. 20|133.33| 172-4] .50]- .03| 58
Berrtes-
Blackberries........... 7| 5.38] 25.9|1.43]0.02|0.01|] .16] 386
Cranberries . 5] 12.50] 23.3/2.00] or] .or| .20] 430
Currants......... 5| 3-33| 18-9|2-00] .03].....] .26] 530
Gooseberries.... 5] 10.64] 19.2|2-00| .or].....] .27] 520
Huckleberries... 4| 6.67| r1.6/2.50| .02| .02} .42! 862
Loganberries... 7| 6.42] 26.5/2.43] .02].....| .18] 377
Raspberries. ... 7| 7.00] 27.4]1.43) .or].....] .18] 365
Strawberries..... 4| 7.78) 40.0]1.43] .or) .or] .r0] 250
Whortleberries ........ 4| §-71| 10.3]2.50] .o2| .08] .34) 975
Nuts:
Almonds..............- 15|' 1.30 9.0] .67] .08] .20] .o6|1,112
Beechnuts.............- 10 77 5-5|1.00] .13] .34] .08]1,820
Brazil nuts............. ts| 1.74] 9.0] .67} .06] .23] .02|1,109
Butternuts............- 15| 3-95] 34-9] -67| .03] .o6}..... 288
Chestnuts............. 8] 1.54 8.5|1-25| .07| .06] .44]1,181
Cocoanuts ............. s| 1-72 3-5|2-00| .06] .51] .29}2,826
Filberts seiccectcnc chen 15| 2.00 9-5| .67| .o5] .21] .0411,055
Hickory nuts.......... g| 1-55 7.1|r.11| .06| .28) .04/1,404
Lichi nuts ............ 35| 20.60] 40.0] .2g].....]...-- 13] 254
Peanuts.........-..5+55 7 36 3.6/1.43] .28] .42| .27|2,767
POCANS eccce cans st eos I§| 2.94 8.1] .67| .03] .25] .05|1,237
Pine nuts.........--.-- 8] 1.27 5-4|1.25] .08] .35| .r1/1,845
Pignolias..... J aati goes 25 -75) 8.8] .40] .14] .20] .03]1,138
Pistachios.............- 20 Rete) 6.7) .50) .11]) .27] .08)1,498
Walnuts............---- 15] 3.06] 17.0] .67} .03) .12| .02] 593
Butters:
Apple ......--... sees ee: 5) 10.00 5.6|2.00] .o1].....| .94]1,780
Peanut...........2.00+: 20 .68 7.1] .50} .15] .2 | .og}1,412

From ‘Further Investigations Among Fruitarians” at the
California Agricultural Experiment Station, 1901-1902.—M. E

Jaffa, M. S., Assistant Professor of Agriculture, University of Cali-
132, U. S. Department of Agriculture.

fornia. Bulletin No.

325

INDEX

Aguacate, 299-300. Apple, Custard, 301.

To prepare, 299-300.
Akee Tree, Lo oe
Alligator Pear, 299-300.
Almond, Tropical, 316.
Amatungula, 312.
Antidesma Bunius, 316.
Apple, The, 23-48.
Amber, 36.
Baked with Honey, 28.
With Meats, 30.
With Nuts, 28.
Baked, and Ice-cream, 48.
Batter Pudding, 34.
Brandy, 47.
Brown Betty, 35.
Butter, 41.
Cake, 35.
Dried Apple Fruit, 37.
Filling, 38.
German, 36-37.
Cashew or Kashew, 313.
Catsup, 41.
Champagne (Crabapple), 47
Charlotte, 39.
Cheese, 38.
Chutney, 4o.
Cider, 45.
Apple Sauce, 27.
Boiled, 45.
Egg-nog, 46.
elly, 39.
TESEIVES, 43.
Sweet, To Keep, 45.
Vinegar, 46.
Coddled, 40.
Crabapple Champagne, 47.
Jelly, 42.
Marmalade, 44.
Preserves, 43.
Croquettes, 29.
Currant and Apple Jelly, 42.

327 :

Apple Pie, 31.

Frozen Apple, 48.
Dates and Apples, 27.
Dried, 46.

Fruit Cake, 39.
Dunes: Baked, 33.

oiled, 33.

In Cups, 33.

Slices, 34.

Egg-nog (Cider), 46.
Elephant, 315.
Filling for Cake, 38.

Tarts, 38.

Flip Flaps or Puffs, 32.
Float, 38.

Fried, 30.

Fritters, 30.

Frozen Apple Custard, 48.

Snow, 48.

Fruit Cake (Dried Apple),

37.
Gelatine, 38.
German Cake, 36-37.
Grape Juice Preserve, 43.
Honey, Baked with, 28.
Ice-cream and Baked
Apples, 48.
Ices, Water, 48.
Indian Pudding, 35.
Jam, 4s.
amaica, 302.
fener 38.
Cider, 39.
Crabapple, 42.
and Currant, 42.
and Quince, 42.
Jelly, Apple, 41-42.
Jonathan, 35.
Kai, 312.
Kashew or Cashew, 313.
Kuchen, Apfel, 36-37.

328

INDEX

Apple, Lemon and Apple Mar-
malade, 44.

Love, 147.

Malay, 295.

Mammee, 303.

Marmalade, 44
and Currant, 44.
and Lemon, 44.
and Quince, 44.
Crabapple, 44.

May, 146.

Meringued, 39.

Nuts with Baked Apples, 28.

Old-fashioned Sauce, 27.

Omelet, 29.

Otaheite, 314.

To Pack, 46.

Pancakes, 32.

Pickle, Sweet, 41.

Pie, 30.

Custard, 31.

Pine, 238-249.

Pomona Wine, 47.

Pond, 301.

Pone, 35.

Preserves, Plain, 43.
Cider, 43.
Crabapple, 43.
Grape Juice, 43.
and Quinces, 43.

Prunes and, 27.

Pudding, Batter, 34.
Brown Betty, 35.
Indian Apple, 35.

Puffs or Flip Bape, 32.

Quinces (and Apples), 42-

44.
Raisins (and), 27.
Roly Poly, 32.
Rose, 295.
Salads, 29.
Sandwiches, 29.
Sauce (Cider), 27.
Old-fashioned, 27.
Slump, 34.
Snow, 37.
Balls, 35.
Frozen, 48.
Solid, 37.
Soup, 28.
Spiced, 40.

Apple, Star, 305.
Re Stewed with Dates, 27.
Sugar, 301.
Sweet Pickles, 41.
Tart, 31.
English, 31.
Filling, 38.
Scotch, 32.
Tea, 47.
Turnovers, 32.
Vinegar, 46.
Water, 46.
Ice, 42.
Wine, Pomona, 47.
Apricot, The, 66-80.
So. American, 303.
St. Domingo or Wild, 247-
303.
Avocado, 299-300.

Bacury, 315.

Hanae The, 250-2509.
Baked, 252.
Beer, 258.
Blanc Mange, 255.
Cake Cup, 254.

Layer, 254.
and Nut Loaf, 254.
Dried, 259.
Flour, 259.
Fried, 253.
Fritters (Crushed), 254.
Halved, 253.

Frozen, 257.
Frozen Custard, 257.
Ice, 257.

Cream, 257.
Jelly, 258.
Layer Cake, 254.
Loaf Cake, 254.

and Nut, 254.
Marmalade, 257.
Mubisi, 258.
Muenge, 258.
Nut Strips, 255.
Omelet, 252.
Pancakes, 254.
Pie, 254.
Pudding, 256.

With Rice, 253.
Salad, 252.

INDEX

Banana, Sandwiches, 259.
Sherbet, 257.
Shortcake, 255.
pinpleee Dessert, 255.
Soufflés, Little, 256.
Soup (Iced), 252.
Stewed, 253.
aNd 256.

ipped, 256.
Wine, 258. :

Baobab, 314.

Barbadoes Cherry, 295.

Barberry (See Berries).

Bayonet, Spanish, 317.

Bengal Quince, 315.

Bergamot, 223-226.

Berries, 136-184.

Barberries, 146, 172, 173.
Dried, 172. i

fem. 172.
eserved (Cold), 172.
4 eee 172.
yrup of, 173.
Bilbenics and Blueberries,
(See Whortleberries), 140,
163, 165.
Blackberries, 138, 156-160.
Brandy, 158.
Catsup, 157.
Charlotte Russe, 159.
Cordial, 158.
To Dry, 160
Farina, 159.
General Recipes, 160.
am, 156.
elly, 157.
uffins, 159.
Pickled, 157.
Pie, 159.
Preserved, 157.
Pudding (Steamed),

159
Slump, 159.
Vinegar, 157.

Wine, 157, 158.
Blueberries and Bilberries,
(See Whortleberries), 140,
163-165.
Boxberry or Checkerberry,

147.
Buffalo Berry, 150.

329

Berries, Checkerberry, 147.

Cherry, Winter, 147.

Cranberry, 140, 165-167.
Bombe, 167.

Compote, 166.

Cream Frozen, 167.

elly, 166.
udding, 167.
Roly Poly (in General
Directions), 167.

Sauce, 165.

Snow, 166.

Sponge, 166.

Syrup, 166.

Tart, 166.

Uncooked, To Keep,

167.

Currant, 144, 173-179.
Bar-le-Duc (Jam), 174.
Brandy, 178.

Catsup, 175.

Colouring, 179.

Cup, 176.

Dried, 178.

Ice, 176.

Ice Cream, 176.

Jam (Bar-le-Duc), 174.
Black, 175.
Raisin, 175.

Red, 174-179.
White, with es

berries, 180.

Jelly se ae 173.

Pudding (Red), 176.

Punch, 178.

Salads (In), 179.

Sherbet, 176.

Shortcake, 175.

Shrub, 176.

Spiced, 175.

Uncooked, 179.
Vinegar, 178.
Wines, 177.

Elderberries, 142-144, 169-

172.
Ale Flavoured with, 171
Blossom Wine, 170.
Brandy, 170.
Catsup, 171.

INDEX

Berries, Elderberries, Dried, 172.

Flower Water, 172.

elly, 171.

unket, 171.
Ointment, 172.
Pancakes, 171.
Rob of, 169.
Syrup of, 169.
Tarts, 171.
Water (Elder Flower),

172.
Wine, 170.
(Spiced), 170.
Wine Blossom, 170.
Gooseberries, 144, 179, 184.

Barbadoes, 311.
Catsup, 182.
Champagne, 183.
Chips, 182.
Chutney, 182.
Coromandel, 313.
Fool, 181-182.

am, 179.
J Bee Red Currant,

179.
and White Cur-
rant, 180.
Jelly, 179.
Otaheite, 311.
Peruvian, 147.
Pie, 180.
Preserved Whole, 180.
Pudding, Boiled, 181.
Sauce for Lamb, 182.
Spanish, 311.
‘art, 180-181.
Vinegar, 183.
Water Ice, 184.
Wine, 183.
Hackberry, 148.
Haws, 148.
Huckleberries (See Whor-
tleberries).
ees Berry, 149.
ogan Berry, 169.
Love Apple, 147.
May Apple, 146.
Mountain Ash, 149.
Mulberries, 141, 168, 169.
Brandy, 169.
General Directions,168.

Berries, Mulberries, Jam, 168.

elly, 168.
armalade, 168.
Wine, 169.
Nettle Tree (See Hackberry)
Partridge Berry, 147.
Raspberries, 139, 160-163.
Bar-le-Duc (Jam), 174.
Black, Pudding, 161.
Catsup, 163.
Cordial, 161.
Frozen, 161.
Ice, 161.
Jam, 160,
Jelly, 161.
Puddings, Red and
Black, 161.
Red Raspberry Pud-
ding, 161.
Rose Sandwiches, 160.
Royal, 161.
Sandwiches, 160.
Shrub, 161.
Without Sugar, 162.
Soup, 4.
Vinegar, 161.
Wine, 163.
Rowan, 149.
Service Berry, 149.
Sorb, 149.
Strawberries, 136, 150,
156.
Batter Cups, r5r.
Brandy, 156.
Custard or Float, 152.
Dry, To, 124.
Dumplings, 152.
Escalloped, 152.
Float or Custard, 152.
Fritters (See the
Apple), 30.
Frozen, 153.
Gelatine (See Intro-
ductory Recipes), 16.
Ice, 153.
Cream, 153.
Jam, 154.
felly, 155.
reserves, 153.
Pyramid, 152.
Sauce, 151.

INDEX

Berries, Strawberries, Seal, To,

without oe 54.
Served Whole, 150,
Sherbet, 153.
Shortcakes,
Shrub, 3155.
Soufflé (See Introduc-

150.

331

Carissa arduina, 312.
carandas, 312.

Cashew Apple or Nut, 313.

Cayenne Cherry, 295.

Ceriman, 311.

Checkerberry (See Berries).

Cherimoya, or Chiramoya, 301.

tory Recipes), 18, 19.

Spiced, 154.
Tart, 152.
Vinegar, 156.
Whips, 153.
Wine, 155.

and Currant Wine,

Sugar Berry (See
berry), 148.
Whortleberries,

165.

140,

177.

Hack-

163-

Blueberry Bread, 164.
Cake, Huckleberry, 163

Canned, 165.
Catsup, 165.
Ta Dry, 165.

Huckleberry Cake, 163.

Mush, 164.

Old-fashioned
ding, 163.

Pie, 164.

Slump, 164.

Vinegar, 165.

Wine, 165.

Wintergreen, 147.

Pud-

Bilberry(SeeWhortleberry), 140

Bilimbi, 313.

Blackberry (See Berries),
136-184.

Blueberry (See
136-184.

Boxberry, 147.

Bread Fruit, 310.

Bullock’s Heart, 301.

Berries),

Caladium esculenta, 316.

Canteloupes (See Melons),
125-135.

Capuassa, 315.

Carambola, 313.

Carissa acuminata, 312.

.

Cherry, The, 81-92.

Barbadoes, 295.
Bavarian Cream, 84.

Bounce, go.
Brandied, 88.
Brandy, 8

Bread Budding. 84.

Cake Icing, 85.

Candied, gr.

Canned, 88.

Catsup, 88.

Cayenne, 295.

Cordial, 89.

Cream, 84.

Créme de Maraschino, 61.
Domestic Kirschwasser, 89.
Dried, go, 91.

Float, 84.

Four Fruit Jelly, 86.
Frosted, 85.

Frozen, 85.

German Sauce, 84.
Ground, 147.

Ice, 85.

Iced Maraschino-ade, 92.
Icing, Cake, 85.
am, 86-87.

fay. 86.

with Currants, 86.
x Raspberry, 86.

Four Fruit, 86.

Juice Preserved, go.

Kirschwasser, Domestic, 89.

Maraschino Jelly, 92.
Recipes, 92. °

Pickled, Cooked, 88.
Uncooked, 88.

Pie, 84.

Preserved, 87.
with Currant, 87.
with Lemon, 87.
Juice, go.

332

Cherry, Preserved, Syrup, 90.

Pudding, 84.
Bread, 84.
Punch, 89.
Rum (Wild Cherry), go.
Salads, 83.
Sandwiches, 83.

Sauce (German Pudding)

84.
Shrub, go.
Soup, 83.
Spanish, 295.
Surinam, 295.
Syrup (Preserved), go.
Uncooked Pudding, 84.
Vinegar (for Salads),

oO.
for Cookery and Rable,

Oo.
Wild Chey Rum, go.
Winter, 147.
With Ice Cream, 85.
Chilian Myrtle, 315.

Chiramoya or Cherimoya, 301.

Citrange, 229, 230.

Citron, 223-227.
Brine (In), 225.
Candied, 224.
Dried with Sugar, 223.
Ice and Syrup, 225.
Preserve, 225.

Syrup, 225.
Melon See Melons).

Cocco Root, 316, 317.
Cocoa Plum, 305.
Cocoanut (Palm), 271-282.
Cakes, 281.
Cream Candy, 282.
Cups, 280.
Curry, 279.
Drops, 281.
Fritters (Indian), 279.
Macaroons, 281.
Milk for Cookery, 278.
Mousse (Frozen), 282.
Omelet, 279.

Orange Flowers and, 280.

Pastel de Coco, 281.
Salad, 278.
Sherried, 280.
Soup, 278.

Toast, 280.

INDEX

Coromande Gooseberry, 313.
Cranberry (See Berries).
Currant (See Berries).
Custard Apple, 301.

Date, The, (Palm), 271-278.
With Bread-fruit, 274.
Breakfast Food, 274.
Cake (Layer), 276.
Loaf, 276.
Macaroons, 276.
Fluff Duff, 275.
Foam, 275
Fruit Bread, 274.
Fudge, 277.
Gems, 274.
Ice, 277.
Cream, 277.
Jam, 275.
Layer Cake, 276.
Loaf Cake, 276.
Macaroons, 276.
Pie, 276.
Salad, 278.
Sandwiches, 274.
Stewed, 274.
Stuffed, 277.
Dilly, Wild, 305.
Durian, 314.

Egg Fruit, 305.
Bidertcr) See Berries).
Elephant Apple, 315.
Emblic Myrobolan, 314.
Eugenia, 295.

Fig, 260-270.
Baked, 262.
Blanc Mange, 265.
Bread Pudding, 265.
Cake (Layer), 264.

oaf, 263.

Cakes (Dried), 268.
Little, 263.

Candied, 266.
Candy, 266.
Crystallised, 266.
Dry (To), 268.
Eat (To), 261.
Filling (Cake), 264.
Freshen (To), 262.

INDEX

Fig, Ice, 266.
Cream, 265.
Indian (See Prickly Pear),

Preserved, 267.

Pudding, 264.
Bread, 265.
Suet, 264.

Snow, 264.

Stewed, 262.

Stuffed, 263.

Suet Pudding, 264.
Food Values, Tables of, 320.
Four Fruit Jelly, 86.
Frosted Fruit (Introductory

Recipes), 22.

Ginep, 311.
Genipa Americana, 296.
Ginger Plant or Root, 317, 318.

Candied, 318.

Preserved, 317.

Vinegar, 318.

Wine, 318.
Gooseberry (See Berries).
Granadilla, 308.

Grape, The, 108-121.

Apples and Raisins,

II9g.
Bottled Grapes, 111.
Brandied, 118.

Butter, 115.

Cake (Plum), 120.

Canned, 113.

Catawba Wine, 114.
Catsup, 115.

Chutney, 115.

Cordial, 115.

Crabapple and Grape Jelly,

42.
Currant Loaf, 121.
Elderberry and Grape Jelly,

117.

English Plum Cake, 120.
Pudding, 121.

Farina, 118.

333

Grape, Fruits Preserved in Juice,
113.

Green Grapes, Pickled, 116.

Home-made Tokay, 113.

Ice-water, 119.

Cream, 119.

Jams, Plain, 117.
Raisin-currant, 119.
Raisin (Grape ‘and

Pear), 118.
Jelly, Crabapple and Wild
Crepes, 116.
Elderberry and Grape,

117.
Green Grape, 117.
Ripe Grape, 117.
Wild Grape with Crab-
apple, 116.
piced, 116.
uice, 113. ©
ickle, Green Grape, 116.
Sweet Grape, 116,
Plum Cake, English, 120.
Pudding, raz.
Preserve, Uncooked,
(In Ashes, Bottled,
Cotton, Sand, Sawdust,
Wax), 111.
To, Fruits in Grape
Juice, 113.
Pudding, Raisin, Rice, 120.
Punch, Hot, 115.
Raisin and Currant Sauce,
119.
Raisins, 118.
Raisins and Rice, 120.
Raisin, Rice Pudding, 120.
Raisins, Sherry of, 114.
Stewed with Apples,
27.
Wine, 114.
Sandwiches, 118.
Sauce, Raisin and Currant,
119.
Sea oe Shore, 311.
Sherbet, 1109.
Shore (or Sea), 311.
Snow, 119.
Soup, 118.
Spiced, 116.
Tokay, Home-made, 113.

INDEX

Grape, Uncooked, Preserved,

(In) Ashes, 111.
Bottled, 1121.
Cotton, 111.
Sand, 111.
Sawdust, 111.
(With) Wax, 111.
Unfermented Juice, 112.
Vinegar, 114.
Water Ice, r19.
Wild Grape Jelly, 116.
Wine, 113.
Catawba, 114.
Raisin, 114.
Sherry or Raisin, 114.
Tokay, 113.

Grape-fruit or Pomelo, 229—237.

(For) Breakfast, 231.
Candied, Strips, 236.
(And) Clams, 232.
Cocktail, 232.

Drops, 234.

(With) Grapes, 232.
Frozen, 235.

Ice, 235.

Jelly, 234.

(And) Limeade, 236.
(For) Luncheon, 231.
Marmalade, 233.

General Remarks, 234.

Preserve, 235.
Pyramid (Pink), 232.
Rinds, 236.

Salads, 233.

Sherbet, 235.

Syrup, 235.

Wine, 235.

Ground Cherry, 147.
Guava, 287-294.

Brandy, 293.
Brown Betty, 289.
Cattley Jelly, 291.
Catsup, 292.
Chutney, 293.
Cobbler, 289.
Custard, 290.
Desserts (General); 290.
Dumplings, 289.
Fritters, 289.
Jelly, 290.
Cattley, 291.

Guava, Macaroni (With), 280.
Marmalade, 292.
Paste, 291.

Pickles, 292.
Preserves, 292.
Roly Poly, 290.
Salad, 288.
Sauce, 288.
Serve Uncooked, 288.
Shortcake, 289.
Shrub, 293.
Bienes 288.
YIUp, 293.
Uneookced 288.
inegar, 293.
Wine, waa.

Hackberry, 148.
Haws, 148.
Hog Plum, 314.
Hovenia Dadees, 316.
Huckleberry (See Berries).

Indian Fig (See Prickly Pear),
308

Introductory Recipes, 3-22.
Batter for Fruit Fritters, 14.
Pudding, 14.
Bavarian Cream, 16.
Biscuit Dough, 8.
Drop, 9.
Blanc Mange, 15.
Bread for Fruit Toast, 13.
Brod, German Fruit, 13.
Butter Fruit, r2.
Cake, Eggless, ro.
Fruit (Black), 12.
(General Remarks), 11.

One Egg, ro.

One, Two, Three, 11.

Shore sare 9. 16)
onge, (Simple), 11.

(White), It. .

Can (To) Fruit, 19.
Candy, Clear, 22.

Cream, 21.
Cornstarch, Blanc Mange,

15.
Custard, Baked, 14.
Boiled, 14.
Float, 14, 15.

INDEX

Introductor
Custard, Frozen, 17.
Dressings, Salad, 6-8.

Cooked Mayonnaise, 7.

Cream, 7.

Cream Whipped, 7.
Egg, Whipped, 8.
French, 6.

Mayonnaise (Simple),6.

hite, 7.

Olive Oil and Cream, 7.

Sour Cream, 8.

Wao Cream, 7.
Ze, 8.

White or Cream, 7.

Float, 14-15.

Frost Fruit (To), 22.

Gelatine, 16.

Granites, 17-18.

Ice Cream, 17.

Ices, 16.

Icing, Boiled, 12,.

Soft, 12.
Water, 12.

Italian Cream, 16.
unket Fruit, 18.
ozenges, Fruit, 21.

Mull (To) Wine, 21.

Omelet, 19.

Pastry, Bread-Dough, 10.
Cream (With), 9.
Oatmeal, 9.

Potato, 9.

Preserve Fruit (To), 19.
Shortening (With), ro.

Sago (See Tapioca), 15.
Salads, 5.
Dressings, 6-8.
Scones, 9.
Sherbets, 17.
Shortcake, Plain, 9.
Soufflés, Cooked, 19.
Simple, 18.
Soups, Fruit, 3.
Red Raspberry, 4.
Swedish Fruit, 4.
Spanish Cream, 16.
Sponge (Gelatine), 16.
Syrups, Fruit, 21.
Tapioca or Sago, 15.
Wine, To Mull, 21.

Recipes—Cont'd.

335
Jamaica Apple, 245.
‘Plum, 255.
Sorrel, 257.
Jambosade or Tambvoanle: (See

Rose Apple), 295.

Japan Persimmon, 283-286.
Dry (To), 285.
Jelly, 285.
Marmalade, 285.
Pudding,. 285.
Uncooked, 284.

Japan Plum (See

63-64.

Java Plum, 295.

Jujube, 316.

June Berry, 149.

Loquat),

Kai Apple. 3r2.
Kaki (See Japan Persimmon),
283-286.
Kashew Apple, 313.
Kumquat, 223-228.
Au Naturel, 226.
Candied, 227.
Drinks (In) ‘‘Au Naturel,’”’
226,
Frozen, 228.
Gelatine, 228.
Jam, 227.
Jelly, 227.
Marmalade, 227.
Preserve, 227.

Lemon, The, 185-200.
Lemonades, 187-189.
Egg (Simple), 188.
(With Sherry), 189.
Flaxseed, 187.
Italian, 189.
Orange, 189.
Simple or ‘‘Squash,”
188.
Baked, for Colds, 187.
Boiled Pudding, 196.
Cakes, Layer, Custard, 197.
Loaf, 197.
Candied Lemon Peel, 200.
Catsup, 198.
Cheese, 194.
Cordial, 187.
Crackers, 198.

336

Lemon, Cream Pie, 194.
Cure for Malaria, 186.
Custard, Frozen, 199.
Simple, 193.
Drinks (In), 188.
Dumplings, 196.
Egg Lemonades, 188, 189.
Eggiess Pie, 194.
Flaxseed with, 187.
Frozen Custard, 199.
Ginger Beer, 189.
For Headache, 187.
Hoarseness, 187.
Honey, 193.
Ice, 199.
Cream, 199.
Italian Cure for Malaria,
186.
Lemonade, 189.
Jelly, 192.
Juice and Tea, 188.
Layer Cake, 197.
Lemonades, 187-189.
Loaf, 197.
Maitre d' Hétel Sauce, 199.
Marmalade, 191.
Orangeade, 189.
Peel (Candied), 200.
Pickles, 193.
Pie, Cream, Custard, 194.
Eggless, 194.
Preserves, 191.
Lemon Rind, rot.
Pudding (Boiled), 196.
Eggless, 194.
Rice, 195.
Sauce, 197.
Rice Pudding, 195.
Rind Preserved, 191.
Sago, 195.
Sandwiches, 198.
Sauce (Maitre d’Hétel), 199.
Pudding, 197.
Sherbet, 199.
Snaps, 198.
Sponge, 195.
Squash, 188.
Sugar, for Flavouring, ror.
Pye cite Lemon), 190.
ithout Lemon, 190.
Tapioca, 195.

INDEX

Lemon, Tea with Lemon Juice,
188.

Tincture of Lemon, 190.

Vine, 311.

Whey, 190.

Zest, 191.

Lime, The, 229-237.

Ice, 237.

Juice, Fresh, 236.

in Syrup, 236.

Pickled, 237.

Preserved, 237.

Sherbet, 237.

Spanish, 311.

Zest, 237.
Lime-berry, 223-226.
Litchi or Leechee, 314.
Longan Tree, 314.
Loquat, 63-65.

Jam, 64.

jelly, 64.

armalade, 64.

Stewed, 64.
Love Apple, 147.

Malay Apple, 205.
Mammee Apple, 303.
Mammee Sapota, 305.
Mango, 307.
Mangosteen, 303.
Mangrove, 313.
Marmalade Box, 296.
Maritzgula, 312.
May Apple, 146.
May Pop (See Granadilla), 308.
Medilar, 63.
Melons, 125-135.
Candied Citron Melon, 133.
Canteloupe Ice, 130.
To Serve Simply, 127.
Oatsup, Watermelon, 134.
Citron Melon in Jelly, 135.
Melon Sauce, 134.
Curried Melons, 135.
(for) Salads, 135.
(as) Vegetables, 134.
General Directions, 135.
Ice Rings, 129.
Mangoes, 132.
Marmalade, 131.
Mousse, 130.

INDEX

Melons, Nutmeg Baskets, 128
Compote, 130.
Tart, 130.
Pie Melon Sauce, 134.
Tart, 134.
Pickles, 131-132.
Mangoes, 132,
Ripe Muskmelons, 131.
Small Melon, 131.
Watermelon, 133.
Preserved Citron Melon, 133.
Roll, 129.
Salads, 134.
Sauce, Citron, or Pie Melon,

134.
To Serve Canteloupes, 127.
Watermelons, 127.
Spiced Melons, 132.
Surprise, 129.
Tart, Nutmeg, 130.
Vegetables, Melons: as, 134.
Watermelons, 127.
Watermelon Catsup, 134..
Half Frozen, 129.
Honey, 134.
Pickles, 133.
Sherbet, 130.
Melon Pear or Shrub, 312.
Monkey’s Bread, 314.
Monstera deliciosa, 311.
Mountain Ash, 149.
Mountain Plum, 304.
Mulberries (See Berries),
Muskmelon (See Melons),
Myrobolan Emblic, 314.

Nut, Cashew or Kashew, 313.

Olive, The, 122—124.

Orange, Mandarin (See Sweet
Orange), 211-222.

Orange, Seville, 201-210.

Brandy, 208.

Candied Flowers, 209.
Domestic Curacoa, 208.
Flowers, Candied, 209.

Ice, 210.

Icing, 210.
Preserved, 208.
in Syrup, 209.
Water, 210.

337

Orange Ice (Orange Flower), 210.
cing, Orange Flower, 210.
jelly, Seville Orange, 207.
armalade, 206,207.
Florida, 206.
Lemon and Orange, 207.
Scotch, 206.
Preserved Orange Flow-
ers, 208, 209.
in Syrup,
Seville Orange, 207.
Scotch Orange Marmalade,
206.
Water, Orange Flower, 210.
Wine, Seville, 208.
Orange, The Sweet, 211-222.
Baked Pudding, 215.
Cake, 214-216
Cheese, 215.
Fruit, 216.
Layer, 216.
Loaf, 216.
Short, 214.
Cheesecake, 215.
Chips, 219.
Cocoanut, with, 212.
Cookies, 217.
Cream of, 222.
Custard, 217.
or Orange Soufflé, 217.
Delight, 218.

. Filling (for Pie), 215.

Flower (Orange) Soufflé,213.
Fool, 217.
Fritters, 214.
Frozen, (Orange), 219.
Gelatine, 218.
Ice, 218.
Cream, 219.
Marmalade, 219.
Jelly, 221.
Layer Cake, 216.
Loaf Cake, 216.
Macaroons, 216.
cia ae) 220.
ce, 219.
“Pudding, 215.
Omelet, 213.
Orangeade, 222.
Pie (Filling), 215.
(Cheese), 215. =

338 INDEX

Orange, Preserve, 221.

Pudding, Marmalade, 215.

Rice, 218.
Suet, 214.
Rice and Oranges, 213.
Sago, 218.
Salads, 212.
Sauce, 215.
Sherbet, 218.
Sherried Tangerine, 212.
Shortcake, 214.
Soufflé or Custard, 217.
Soufflé, Orange Flower, 213.
Sponge, 218.
Suet Pudding, 214.
Syrup, 222.
Tangerine Sherried,-212.
Tapioca, 218.
Vinegar, 222.
Wine, 222.
Orange-tangerine (See Sweet
Orange), 211-222.
Otaheite Apple, 314.
Gooseberry, 311.
Plum, 314.

Palm, Cocoanut, 271-282.

Date, 271-282.

Peach, 315.

Papaw, Northern, 106.

Tarts, 106.

Tropical, 307.
Partridge Berry, 147.
Peach, The, 66-80.

Apricot or Peach Wine, 79.

Baked Peaches, 69.

Betty, 72.

Brandied, 77.

Brandy, Commercial, 80.

Domestic, 80.

Bread Pudding, 72.

Butter, 78.

Cake, Dutch, 69.

Canned Peaches, -76.

Catsup Peaches, 78.

Chutney, 78.

Cobbler, 70.

Commercial Brandy, 80.

Cream of Peach Sherbet,

4.
Créme de Noyau, 8o.

Peach, Custard Pudding, 71.

Domestic Brandy, 80. ~
Dried, 75.
Dutch Fruit Moons, 69.
Extract of Nectarine, 79.
Peach,
Foam-peach, or Snow, 74.
Fritters, 70.
Frozen, 74.
Fruit Moons (Dutch), 69.
Halved, 68.
Ice, 74.
Cream, 74.
Jam (Cooked), 75,
Uncooked, 75.
Jelly, 76. '
Kisses, 72.
Leather, 75.
Mangoes, 77.
Marmalade, 76.
Moons (Dutch Fruit), 69.
Mousse, 73.
Palm, 315.
Pan Dowdy, 71.
Pickled Peaches or Apricots,
77:
Pie, 71.
‘Spider, 71.
Pone or Suet Pudding, 69.
Pudding, Bread, 72.
Custard, 71.
Plain, 71.
Sherried, 72.
Steamed, 72.
Suet Pudding or Pone,
69.
Russe, 7,
Salads, 68.
Sauce Preserved, 75.
Sherbert (Cream of), 74.
Sherried (Pudding), 72.
Shortcake, 69.
Snow, 74.
Soufflé, 73.
Soup and Prune, 68.
Hot, 68.
ee 68.
Spiced, 77.
Spider Pie, 71.
Steamed Pudding, 72.
Stewed Peaches, 69.

339

‘Peach, Suet Pudding or Pone,69. Pineapple, Custard, Frozen, 244.

Tart, 70.
Tartlets, 70.
Vinegar, 80.

Wine, Peach or Apricot, 79.

Pear, The, 49-56.
Baked, 51.
Meringued, 51.
Preserved, 54.
Stuffed, 51.
Brandied, 53.
Bread Pudding, 51.
Chips, 55.
Compote, 52.
Dry, To, 50.
Ices, 52.
Jelly, 55.
Marmalade, 54.
eringued, 51.
ack (To), 50.

Breserver’ (Baked), 54.
Plain, 53.
With Ginger, 54.
Grape Juice, 53.
Lemon, 54.
Perry, 53-

Pyramid of, 51.

Raisinée (See Grapes), 55.

Sauce, 55.
Stewed, 51.
Trifle, 52.
Uncooked, 50.
Vinegar, 56.

Pear, Alligator, 299-300.
Melon, 312.
Prickly, 308.
Strawberry, 312.

Persimmon, Japanese, 283-286.

Northern, 107.
Pineapple, The, 238-249.
Pineappleade, 247.

Beer, 248.

Breakfast Fruit, (As), 239.

Cake, 241.

Canned (With Sugar), 246.
(Without Sugar), 246.

Champagne, 248.
Chips, 247.
Compote, 242.

Fritters, 241.
Frozen, 244.
Custard, 244.
Ice, 243.
Cream, 244.
In Shell, 240.
Jam, 245.
Jelly, 244, 245.
Lemon or Limeade aiid, 247.
Luncheon Dish, Simple,

239.

Marmalade, 245.

Mousse, 243.

Muffins, 241.

Omelet, 239.

Pare, Properly, To, 239.

Preserve, Cooked, 246.
Uncooked, 246.

Pie or Pudding Filling, 242.

Punch, 247.

Salad, 240.

Shell (In), 240.

Sherbet, 243.

Soufflé, 241.

Sponge, 242.

Syrup, 247.

Tapioca, 242.

Vinegar, 248.

Plum, The, 93-105.

Brandied Plums, 99.
Brandy, roo.
Butter, 97.

Cake, ror.

Catsup, 97.
Wild. O7- «

Cocoa Plum, 305.

Dried, (Whole), 98.
(With Sugar), 98.
Domestic Kirschwasser, 89.

Duff, roo.
General Directions, 101.
Hog, 314.
Ices, ror.
Jam, Apricot and Plum, 96.
Damson, 96.
Lemon and Plum, 96.
amaica, 314.
apan (See Loquat), 63, 64.
ava, 295.
elly, 96.

340

Plum, Kirschwasser (Domestic),
89.
Leather, 98.
Marmalade, Crabapple and,

95.
Sweet, 95.
Wild, 95.
Mountain, 304.
Otaheite, 314.
Paste, 98.
Pickled, 99.
Preserved, 98.
Pudding, ror.
Salad, 95.
Soup, 95.
Spiced, 97.
Trifle, 100.
Vinegar, roo.
Wild Plum Catsup, 97.
Marmalade, 95.
Wine, 99.
Pomegranate, 297, 298.
Ice, 298.
Jam, 298.
Jelly, 298.
Syrup, 2098.
Wine, 298.
Pomelo (See Grape-fruit), 229-

23 37 ‘
Pon pels gol.
Prickly Pear, 308.
Prune, The, 101-105.
Betty, 1o2.
Bread or Pone, 102.

Pudding, rox.
Cake, 103.

Short, 103.
Croquettes, ro2.
Dumplings, roz.
Gelatine, 104.
General Directions, 105.

Ices, 105.

Individual Puddings, ros.

Pone or Prune Bread,
102.

Pudding-bread, 102.
Individual, ros.
Suet, 102.

Roll, 103.

Sauce (‘‘Pruin’’), ros.

Sherried Prunes, 103.

INDEX

Shortcake, 103.
Snow, 105.

Prune, Soufflé, 104.
Soup, ror.
Spiced Prunes, 102.
Sponge, 104.
Stuffed, ro2.
Tart, 103.

uince, The, 57-62.
9 Baked, ee
Candied Slices, 60.
Canned, 59.
Cider, 57.
Cordial, 60.
Dried, 60.
General Directions, 62.
Honey, 61.
Ices, 61.
elly, 58.
uice, Preserved, 60.
Marmalades, 58, 59.
Preserved, 50.
Juice, 60.
Syrup, 60.
Salads, 62.
Sauce, 61.
Steamed, 61.
Syrup, Preserved, 60.
Tarts, 61.
Quince, Bengal, 315.

Raspberry (See Berries).
Rose Apple, 295.

Roselle Berry, 316.
Rowan Tree, 149.

Sapota, Mammee, 305.
hite, 305.
Sapodilla, 395-
Sea Grape (Shore Grape), 311.
Service Berry, 149.
Shadberry, 149.
Shaddock, 229.
Shore Grape (Sea Grape), 311.

Sop, Sour, 3or.
Sop, Sweet, 3or.
Sorb, 149.

Sorrel, Jamaica, 316.
Sour Sop, 301. |
South American Apricot, 303.

INDEX 341

Spanish Bayonet, 317
Cherry, 296.
Goose, 311.
Lime, 311.

Star Apple, 305.

St. Domingo Apricot, 303.

Strawberry (See Berries).

Pear, 312.
‘Sugar Apple, jor.

Tables of Food Values, 319—324.
Weights and Measures, xix.

Tamarind, 309.
Tangelo, 229,330.
Ti-es, 305.

Tomato Strawberry, 147.

Tree Tomato, 313.

Trifoliate Orange, 223-226.

Tropical Almond, 316.
Papaw, 307.

Voa-vanga, 315.

Watermelon, 125-135.

Weights and Measures, Tables
of, xix.

White Sapota, 305.

Whortleberry (See Berries).

Winter Cherry, 147.

Wintergreen, 147.

Mes bitee pm e\e) "
fern isie) tek ja :

Linen jiteite iy
tye itsisiens|s

cae ey
juiehe didess desta

bet sh
Sie idee

eal toiaaic) ie
pubes

Sb
dpi weiss
ie aeraey

mopagh gas tata ieee
Shei lesaie ies
slcahiear

erhite
ast

permet
piel ieir seiceiei

pede papelnte

i idheat
“shy rvigiats being riejece)

aoa aie

sap eryednedanhd yan
nee seh aesa eitines

: sp realgl pets

HY Es
reisiesre icy)

joinipiels
age RAN it
rete

‘i ides

tS ratte ;
phe heedky britieistelohe ait
siete ile

sob stee