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Ferns and fern culture:their native habi

PE EN

AND

FERN CULTURE:

THEIR NATIVE HABITATS, ORGANISATION, HABITS
OF GROWTH, COMPOST FOR DIFFERENT
GENERA}; CULTIVATION IN POTS,
BASKETS, ROCK WORK, WALIS;

IN
STOVE, GREENHOUSE, DWELLING-

HOUSE, AND OUTDOOR FERNERIES;
POTTING, WATERING, PROPAGATION, ETC,

SELECTIONS OF FERNS

SUITABLE FOR STOVE, WARM, COOL, AND COLD GREEN-
HOUSES; FOR BASKETS, WALLS, EXHIBITION,
WARDIAN CASES, DWELLING-HOUSES,

AND OUTDOOR FERNERIES.

INSECT PESTS AND THEIR ERADICATION, &v.

BY

J. BIRKENHEAD, F-.R.ELS.

PRICE ONE SHILLING. By Post, Is. 3d.

May be had from the AurHor, Fern Nursery, Sale, Manchester.
Also from
Joun Heywoop, Bookseller, Manchester;
W. H. Smita & Sons, Booksellers, Manchester.

[copyRicat.]

CONTENTS.

PAGE,

PREFACE ... me aes sa ay ad ee ae
FERNS AND FERN CULTURE ... wis wie sae 7
SEoTION 1.
Geographical Distribution of Ferns ... ae a)
Rules for Fern Culture eh ive 10
Modes of Growth—Roots, Stems, ‘Tronds ike ee DL
SECTION 2,

Compost, Loam, Leaf Mould, Peat, Sand, Sand-
stone, Charcoal, Moss, Crocks, Potting Sticks 25

SECTION 3.
Compost for various Genera ... 30
Do. do. in Pots, Wuedlan (Cases,
Walls, Pockets, Rockwork sh ens
SECTION 4,
Habits of Ferns _... is 6 2a ace . 84
SECTION 5.
Various Modes of Cultivation ... Set 44
Potting, Baskets, Hanging Blocks of Cork . 46
Ferns in Rockwork, Moss-covered Walls site 54
Walls Covered with aiid Wall Tiles wa . 5S
Rockwork (Indoors) ... ass or sie is 56
Outdoor Ferneries... i eb .. OF
Rock Fernery with Glass Protection | bas oe 61
SECTION 6.

Light, Means of Shading cas ie oe .. 63

4 Contents.

SECTION 7. PAGE.
Temperature, Ventilation, Watering ‘ 66
Moisture in the Atmosphere, Cutting Ferns Down 70

SECTION 8.

Ferns in Dwelling-houses, Wardian Cases, Fern
Stands, Window Boxes, Window Cases... . 712
SEOTION 9.
Propagation by Bulbils, Division of Rhizomes,
Division of Crowns, Spores ne ba 78
SECTION 10.
Selections of Stove Ferns for Pots, Baekete; Blocks
of Cork, Rockwork, Walls, Cutting . : 85
Stove Selaginellas 91
Selections of Warm Greenhouses Porng for Pots,
Baskets, Blocks of Cork, Hockwark, Walls,
Cutting - és 92,
Warm Greenhouse Sélaginellas 97
Selections of Cool Greenhouse Ferns for: Pots,
Baskets, Blocks of Cork, Walls, Cutting 98
Cool Greenhouse Selaginellas 101
Selections of Cold Greenhouse Ferns ioe Pats,
Baskets, Walls, Cutting .. i ie “8 102
Cold Greenhouse Selagineliag ... 106
Filmy Ferns for Cool and Cold ieéen houses: 106
Exhibition Ferns — Stove, Greenhouse, Hardy
Exotic, British (dwarf), British (large) 109
Ferns for Dwelling-house, Fern Stands, Wardian
Cases, Window Cases, Window Boxes 412
Tree-Ferns for Greenhouses 115
Ferns for Outdoor Ferneries 115

SEcTION 11.

Insect Pests and their Eradication ... . 123

PREFACE.

—++—

ERNS are now in great demand for cultiva-
tion in greenhouses, dwelling-houses, and
out-door ferneries; also for decoration on
special occasions and for cutting. Amateurs
in every position of life are taking interest
in, and are desirous of cultivating, these

plants. Thé demand for information as to the

best kinds to procure, and the proper way to treat
them, is so great, that this treatise has been prepared,
and it is sent forth in the hope that it may help all its
readers to obtain the best results in their efforts to cul-
tivate these beautiful plants.

The aim of the author has been to give simple and clear
instructions — avoiding, as far as possible, technical
phraseology—and to supply all necessary information,
interspersing here and there such remarks as it is hoped
may add to the interest and benefit of perusal.

It is not intended for the book to count as a botanical
or scientific production, but simply as a practical guide.

The various subjects are necessarily treated briefly, but
as the information given is the result of twenty-five
years’ experience in the cultivation of Ferns, and in the
daily study of their requirements, the writer trusts that
the remarks, though brief, may prove lucid enough even
for the most inexperienced amateur to understand and

profit by.

JOHN BIRKENHEAD.
Sale, May, 1892.

—_—_>or__—

WAT is safe to say there is no class of plants
As! which, taken the year round, gives such
continued pleasure and combines such grace,
beauty, and utility as Ferns.

It is true they are flowerless plants; nevertheless, they
are nearly everybody’s favourites. Without introducing
an odious comparison, it may be said that orchids, roses,
begonias, and other popular plants are attractive and
much admired when in flower, yet, when not in flower,
they are most unattractive and uninteresting in appear-
ance, but Ferns are always beautiful.

Even those who do not take special interest in Ferns
readily acknowledge that flowering plants, or flowers in
a cut state, are greatly improved by association with
Ferns. As, however, this is not intended to be a plea for
Fern culture, but a guide thereto, these remarks will
suffice on this point.

The vegetable kingdom is divided into two sections,
one consisting of flowering plants, the other of those
which are flowerless. Ferns are placed at the head
of the latter class. They are of great antiquity, their
remains and fossils being found to a large extent in the
coal measures, showing that ages ago Ferns grew in this
country in luxuriant profusion, and not only in immense

8 Ferns and Fern Culture.

numbers but also of enormous size. As the climate of
the British Isles has changed, so has its vegetation, and
it is necessary now to go to tropical countries to see such
Ferns as once flourished here.

It must not be forgotten, however, that the Ferns of
our own time and country are of such variety and beauty
of form that they will compare favourably with the
more tender exotics. Indeed, comparatively few people
are aware of the rich profusion of variety there is among
British Ferns, all of which may be cultivated with the
greatest ease and the most pleasing results.

Section 1.

GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF FERNS.

a ERNS have a wide geographical distribution,
: and are found in almost every part of the
world. One thing, however, is very notice-
able—it is that while these plants are found
sparingly in some localities, they abound in the greatest
profusion in others. There, covering the ground, cloth-
ing the mountain sides, creeping up the tree stems,
hanging in festoons from the branches, they literally
swarm on every side. The cause for this is the com-
bination of warmth, moisture, shade, and shelter.
Under such conditions Ferns and their near relatives,
Selaginellas, revel.

Here, then, there is an indication of the condition to
be copied by cultivators, that such species as are not
natives of our own country may be successfully culti-
vated, and may present to their loving admirers some of
the beauty and grace pertaining to them in their natural
homes, where few are privileged to see them.

There is probably no other order of plants which has
so wide a distribution, and such varied positions and
habits of growth. They range from the Tropics, where
they are found in greatest profusion, to the Arctic
regions, as far north as Greenland. They are found at
the sea-level, and up to an altitude of 16,000ft. Some
grow only in hot climates, others only in cold ; some in
dense shade, others in full exposure to the scorching sun.
They are found in damp, shady glens, gullies, forests, on

10 Ferns and Fern Culture.

mountain sides, in crevices of rocks, in old walls, bridges,
and buildings, where it would appear impossible for
moisture to penetrate, and where apparently there is no
food for the roots to absorb. They flourish on the banks
‘of streams, and in boggy ground; they creep over rocks,
up tree stems, along the branches, clothing the trees as
completely as ivy often does in this country. Some are
so small that their fronds are only about half an inch in
length ; others are from 15ft. to 20ft. Some have stems,
and grow like trees to a height of 40ft. to 50ft. Others
have slender wire-like fronds, which grow many yards in
length, twining round other plants, and climbing to the
tops of tall trees, Indeed, among Ferns, there is every
conceivable kind of growth; they grow in all sorts of
places, differing entirely in their habits and require-
ments. Yet, with all this natural diversity, there are no
other plants so easily managed.

While it is necessary to have a knowledge of the
requirements of each kind in order to attain the highest
degree of perfection in their cultivation, and while even
with this there may be found now and again a difficult
subject to manage, yet the whole family can be satisfac-
torily cultivated by attention to a few general rules.

RULES FOR FERN CULTURE.

These may be summarised thus: The right kind of soil
must be provided; the plants must be potted or planted
in a proper manner; they must be watered carefully;
they must be kept at a certain temperature during
winter and summer, according to that of the places of
which they are natives; they should have a moist, quiet
atmosphere, free from either cold draughts or currents
of hot dry air; and they must have sufficient light at all
times, with protection from scorching sun during summer

This may appear. a formidable array of requirements,
but it is surprising how easily they may be supplied;
besides, the Ferns are usually so accommodating that if
they do not get all they want they make the best of that
with which they are supplied, and therefore no one need
be afraid of attempting their cultivation. It is a most
fascinating occupation, and those who begin with a few

Ferns and Fern Culture. 11

of the hardier and more easily-managed kinds invariably
go on step by step until they become proficient ‘in the
management of even the most fastidious variety. Begin-
ning with the common species, their love increases, and
they do not rest until p»ssessed of the most highly-
valued members of the family.

MODES OF GROWTH.

In order to understand thoroughly the why and the
wherefore of various matters, it will be well to consider
first the modes of growth of different species.

Most tropical Ferns are evergreen. The fronds of one
season are retained until others are produced the follow-
ing season, and in some instances fronds remain green
on the plants for a number of years. There are a few
tropical species which are deciduous—that is, they lose

‘their foliage at a given time, and remain without for a
longer or shorter period—but it is among the species

, of colder climates that the deciduous kinds are most
numerous. These, during their period of rest, must not
be neglected. It is sometimes thought, by inexperienced
cultivators, that when Ferns have lost their foliage they
may be put on one side and left without water for weeks.
Thus they become dust dry, the roots are injured if not
killed outright, and the plants cannot possibly make the
vigorous growth the following season that they would
if they had been kept continually damp. Those which
have lost their foliage should be supplied with water
enough to keep them always moist. This will be referred
to again under another heading.

The deciduous species are not quite so generally appre-
ciated as those which are evergreen, but it must be said
for them that when their new growth does appear it is
often exceptionally beautiful, and possesses a freshness
specially noticeable in their case. All Ferns consist of
three distinct parts, viz., roots, stem, and foliage.

ROOTS.

It may seem unnecessary to many to draw attention
to this fact, but among those who have not given much

12 Ferns and Fern Culture.

thought to the matter the roots and the stems are often
confused. It is not necessary to say much about the
roots, but it is essential that it should be clearly under-
stood what is meant when roots are mentioned in the

tS
‘

VV

ASPLENIUM SEPTENTRIONALE.
(Showing fibrous roots, stem, and fronds.)

pages of! this book. They are the thin, wiry-looking
fibres produced from the stem which hold the plant in
its place, whether in the soil, on rocks, trees, or else-
where, and they are also the food-seekers of the plant.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 13

They spread about, creeping into crannies and chinks,
their peculiarly-pointed tips inserting themselves in the
interstices of the soil, rocks, bark of trees, or wherever
they may be growing. By means of numerous fine, hair-

TREE FERN.
(Showing elongated upright caudex.)

like organs with mouths they take up moisture and
other elements within their reach which are suitable
food for them. The crude matter thus taken up passes

14 Ferns and Fern Culture.

in the form of sap through the stems and into the
foliage, where, being acted upon by the light, it is
digested and prepared for assimilation by the plant. A
consideration of this fact will help the most unlearned to
realise how important good healthy roots are to a plant
to enable it to thrive.

STEMS.

Stems are of various characters, specified by the names
caudex, rhizome, and stolon or sarmentum. Most

DavaLLia ALPINA,
(Showing creeping rhizones.)

people who know anything about these plants are
acquainted with the ‘‘Lady Fern,” and the ‘Male
Fern,” so common in Britian. The foliage springs from
a central crown. This crown is the top of the caudex or
stem, which slowly increases in thickness and length
year by year. In these Ferns the stems are of upright
growth, and occasionally rise above the ground a few

Ferns and Fern Culture. 1b

inches. Other species—Lomaria gibba, for instance—
attain a height of 2ft. or more, producing at the top a
head of spreading fronds. These are miniature tree-
ferns, but Dicksonias, Alsophilas, Cyatheas, and other
genera, frequently rise to a height of 50ft., producing
immense heads of fronds, 20ft. to 30ft. across. These are
gigantic specimens—veritable Tree-ferns. (See illustra-
tion, page 13.)

Some species have a creeping, sideways habit of
growth, and thus slowly they change their position ;

DavaLlla HETEXOPHYLLA,
(Showing creeping rhizomes.)

but they still belong to the section whose stems are each
styled a caudex. :

The next division may be represented by the “ Squirrel’s
Foot,” or ‘‘Hare’s Foot” Ferns. These belong to the
genus Davallia. The ‘‘feet,” as they are commonly
called, are often taken to be roots. This, however, is
a mistake; they are not roots, but stems, botanically
known as rhizomes. They correspond to the stem of the
Tree-ferns, so conspicuous in their majestic height. The
roots are produced underneath these creeping stems,
and the fronds from their sides or tops. By these stems

16 Ferns and Fern Culture.

the Ferns travel over large spaces, spreading in all
directions, and producing large quantities of foliage.
Not only do they creep over the level ground, but over
stones, up moist rocks, stems and branches of trees; and
thus they completely clothe with their beautiful foliage
spaces which might otherwise be blank and unsightly.
The rhizomes of some species of Hymenophyllum are
like thin black thread, delicate and easily injured. The
rhizomes of others, such as the Gleichenias, are thicker,
stronger, and very wiry, spreading in their native homes
to such an extent that they cover acres of ground.
Others are much thicker and slower in growth, their
peculiar appearance giving rise to many common names,
as, for instance, the ‘‘ Bear’s Paw” Fern (Aglaomorpha
Meyeniana). The rhizomes of this species are covered
thickly by a light brown, woolly-looking substance.
When they divide into three or four side growths, their
appearance warrants the application of the common
name,

These creeping stems are not all above ground; some
species produce them underground, often like dark-
coloured twine, as in the Oak Fern (Polypodium dryop-
teris), and the Beech Fern (P. phegopteris), They work
their way along, creeping between stones and other
obstructions, and send up their delicate-looking foliage
in profusion. These underground stems produce roots
below and fronds above, just as those do which are above
ground. If the growing points of these stems are broken
off or injured, the growth is at once checked, and some
kinds are a long time before they make a fresh start.
The importance of preserving these vital parts from
injury will be more fully understood when the subject of
propagation has been considered.

There is another kind of stem called a sarmentum or
stolon, which is produced from the caudex of certain
species. The Nephrolepis are conspicuous examples of
this mode of growth. From the plant rooted in a
particular spot, numbers of this cord-like growth are
produced, and spread to an amazing extent. They send
out roots like the rhizomes already noticed, and these
take hold of any damp surface with which they come in

Ferns and Fern Culture. V7

contact. Here and there a bud is formed. This soon
develops into a plant, and is prepared to take up an
independent existence, while the sarmentum is rambling
about seeking for fresh space of which to take possession.

ASPLENIUM PRXMORSUM LACERATUM.
(Showing frond of Fern.)

The buds formed on these stems provide a ready means
of propagation, and they may be used to any extent
without interference with the parent plant.

B

18 Ferns and Fern Culture.

FRONDS OF FERNS.

The fronds are what many people call leaves. It is not
necessary to enter into an explanation of the difference
between a leaf and a frond, as whichever term is used it
is understood to refer to the foliage. The fronds in most
cases have two functions to perform—one the exposure
to the light of the materials taken up the roots, whereby

ASPLENIUM VIVIPARUM.
(Showing bulbils on fronds.)

it is prepared and fitted for assimilation by the plant,
and which is afterwards changed into frond, stem, or
root ; the other is the production of spores, commonly
called seeds, for the perpetuation of its kind. In addi-
tion to spores some fronds bear upon their upper surface
numbers of tiny bulbils, which develop into plants much
more quickly than sporesdo. Ferns also breathe through

Ferns and Fern Culture. 19

their fronds as trees do through their leaves, so that
cutting off fronds injures them, just as human beings are
injured when by disease their lungs and digestive organs
are unable to perform their functions. From these causes
weakness, and eventually death, ‘ensues. A recognition
of this fact will enable many to understand why their

OsMUNDA CLAYTONIANA.
(Showing fertile and barren fronds.)

plants become sickly and die. Every time a green
healthy frond is cut from a plant a direct injury is done
to it, and although the effect may for a time be unnotice-
able, yet if the practice be persisted in, the evil results
become very conspicuous. This will suggest to the minds
of Fern lovers that they must be judicious in the use of

20 Ferns and Fern Culture.

the knife if they wish their favourites to continue in a
healthy condition.

In some species the sterile and fertile fronds are
entirely distinct from each other, having so different an
appearance that they do not appear to belong to the
same plant. In the majority the fronds do not differ,
the spores being produced on the under surface of the
fronds without affecting their form.

ASPLENIUM AUSTRALASICUM,
(Showing undivided fronds.)

In the foliage of Ferns there is the most wonderful
diversity of texture, size, and colour. Some species pro-
duce fronds little more than half an inch long—thick,
fleshy, and undivided—an example being Drymoglossum
piloselloides; others, as in the case of some Tree-ferns
have a length of frond 15ft. to 20ft., and a width of
10ft. to 12ft., branched again and again, divided and sub-
divided into countless pinnules or leaflets. Some fronds
are strong, thick, and leathery in substance; others are

Ferns and Fern Culture. 21

thin and membranaceous, semi-transparent, and delicate.
In some species they are undivided, as those of the
Asplenium (Neottopteris) Australasicum, which attain a
height of 5ft. or 6ft. and 1ft. in width; while others, as
those of Todea superba and Adiantum gracillimum, are
divided into minute segments, or leaflets, of exquisite
beauty.

a3Y waefey

aN
Go
Oe

ADIANTUM GRACILLIMUM.
(Showing minute subdivision of fronds.)

Fern fronds are also of the most varied shades of
colour. They range from the palest to the deepest green.
Some are beautifully variegated with white, yellowish
green, or red. Several have three colours in their fronds,
Pteris tricolor being an example, having deep red mid-

22 Ferns and Fern Culture.

ribs, borderéd. by white, with splashes of red merging
into green. But it is in the young fronds of many
species that the most lovely variation is seen. Some are
produced a deep crimson, which gradually changes to
pale green, one plant bearing several fronds, all of
different sbades, at the same time. Others are produced

PTuRIS ARGYREA.
(Showing variegation of fronds.)

bright red, others deep pink, light pink, rose, ruby, deep
brown, pale brown, and other delicate and delightful
tints. Some are almost blue, being covered from foot to
tip by a remarkable glaucous bloom, others are bronzy
green, while several of the Selaginellas are metallic blue,
8. Willdenovii having the most remarkable iridescent

Ferns and Fern Culture. 23

tints. There are also the wonderful Gold and Silver
Ferns, their fronds thickly coated with bright or pale
yellow, and white or cream coloured farinose powder, all
giving variety in colour of foliage such as is rarely, if
ever, found in other plants.

GYMNOGRAMMA OCHRACEA,
(Showing powder on fronds.)

The arrangement of the clusters of spore cases on the
fronds, the remarkable diversity of the venation or
veining, and other characteristics of the foliage, present

24 Ferns and. Fern Culture.

a large field for. stud¥ ‘and an unending source of
interest and pleasure. ° '

PHLEBODIUM VENOSUM.
(Showing venation and clusters of spore cases.)

Section 2.

COMPOST.

“ve x7 ROM the foregoing remarks it will be readily
: ay) understood that Ferns grow in many different
sxajea| kinds of soil, and in different positions. Some
species grow luxuriantly in soil of one descrip.
tion, and will scarcely grow at all in other kinds.
It is therefore of importance to their wellbeing that they
be planted in that most congenial to them. The prin-
cipal ingredients required for the preparation of suitable
compost are fibrous loam, leaf mould, peat, and sand.
Other materials of benefit to certain kinds are sandstone,
charcoal, and moss.

LOAM.

Loam is of various kinds and qualities. That with.
which most people are acquainted is the common garden
soil, which is harsh and destitute of those qualities
necessary for the wellbeing of plant life. Good loam is
rich, greasy-looking, and full of body. The best type
is that found in old pasture fields which have lain
uncultivated year after year, and been overflowed occa-
sionally by some stream bringing with it and depositing
upon the land a rich sediment. Some loam is dark
brown, some red, some yellow. Perhaps, of the three,
the yellow, such as is found in Kent, is the best, but the
dark brown is also excellent.

Fibrous loam is that which has more or less fibrous
roots init. The more there is the better for the plants,
as, when dead, these fibrous parts consist of vegetable

26 Ferns and Fern Culture.

matter of great value to living plants. To obtain it,
grass sods should be taken from a field, stacked up grass
side down, layer upon layer, and allowed to remain so
for afew months. It will then be found that the grass
and the roots are dead. It should be chopped sufficiently
small for potting purposes, and it will form the basis of
a grand compost for Ferns. When the sods are cut from
the field, they should be only so thick as to include the
roots, three or four inches being the depth of soil to be
taken from the surface; thus a mass of fibre is secured
without the looser material into which the roots had
not penetrated, and which, though often good, is not
nearly so valuable as the fibrous part. Any stray living
roots found in the loam when about to be used should,
of course, be thrown out. Whenever loam is mentioned
in this treatise, the term applies to the kind here
described.

LEAF MOULD.

Leaf mould, or leaf soil, consists of decayed leaves. In
woods and plantations, when the leaves fall from the
trees in autumn, they are often blown into hollow places
or ditches. There they gradually decay and form a rich,
light, spongy mass of mould, containing the very elements
in which Ferns revel. This is a natural production of the
highest value. The best is that made up of oak and
beech leaves. These should be obtained if possible; if
unprocurable, then any other kind may be substituted.
In places where the fallen leaves have been left undis-
turbed for a long time, this rich mould may be found of
considerable depth. The number of fibrous roots and
plants growing in this deposit testifies plainly to its
value. Those who are not in the vicinity of woods,
where leaves have accumulated naturally, may provide a
supply by having the leaves in their gardens or along
the sides of the roads and lanes, collected and placed in a
heap in some out-of-the-way corner, where, exposed to
the weather, they will decay, and in the course of a year
or less will be sufficiently decomposed for use. The
leaves, when collected, should either be in an enclosure,
or have some branches placed over them to prevent their

Ferns and Fern Culture. 27

being blown about. All sticks, pieces of wood, and other
foreign substances, should be thrown out, and the leaf
soil kept pure.

PEAT,

At one time peat was considered to be the one necessary
and all-sufficient material for Ferns, but observation and
experience are convincing many that it is not of such
paramount importance. The value of leaf mould is now
generally acknowledged, for most species will grow
equally well in it, and in some cases better than in peat.
On the other hand, it must be conceded that some species
are naturally bog or marsh plants, and these should have
a special supply of peat.

There are different qualities of peat. The common
bog found in many parts will do for Ferns planted out of
doors, but for those indoors, whether in pots or rock-
work, the peat should be of a different kind. That
already mentioned is almost entirely decayed moss, with
very little fibre if any. The best is that commonly
known as orchid peat, containing sand, fibre, and fern
roots. This, while it will hold moisture, also contains
nutritive matter not found in the other, neither is it of
so spongy a nature, but is more solid, has more substance,
and is admirable as a constituent in fern compost. It
is found in the South of England, especially in Kent and
Hampshire, though here and there in the more northern
parts of the country a good quality is also obtainable.

SAND.

The coarse silver sand found in Bedfordshire is the
best; itis clean, sharp, and serves the purpose intended
better than any other. Sand is used to keep the compost
open, and to facilitate the passage of all surplus water
through the soil. Silver sand, although the best, is not
indispensable. Any clean, sharp sand will do as an
inferior substitute. Clean, coarse, river sand is very
good, and for the more robust free-growing Ferns suit-
able sand may often be procured at building excavations.
If not sufficiently clean and sharp it may be washed, and
when dry it will be much improved.

28 Ferns and Fern Culture.

SANDSTONE.

This is of two kinds, the red and the white. Of the
two, white is preferable for mixing with the compost for
Filmy Ferns, some of the Cheilanthes, Nothocloenas, and
Pellzas. It must be broken into small pieces, and if
made very small it may be used instead of ordinary sand,
if there is difficulty in procuring that material.

CHARCOAL.

For certain Ferns this is very valuable. It should be
broken small and mixed with that compost, which has
to be kept very open and porous for the ready escape of
surplus water.

MOSS.

Sphagnum moss grows in wet places, and no doubt to
a large extent forms common bog. When alive and ina
growing condition it is much used for orchid culture. It
may be chopped small and mixed with some kinds of
fern compost.

Wood moss is found in large flakes. It is useful for
lining baskets, wire netting for walls, cylinders, &c., and
it is also serviceable for putting over the drainage of
pots, to prevent the soil washing down and stopping up
the outlet.

CROCKS.

These are broken plant pots used for drainage. They
must be of various sizes, according to the pots for which
they are required. Bricks broken small, rough cinders,
or pieces of charcoal, will answer the same purpose.
There is also a patent crock now manufactured, which is
handy, takes up little room, and appears to answer its
purpose well.

POTTING STICKS.

These may be mentioned as accessories to the potting
materials. Their use is to facilitate the pressing of the
new soil regularly and firmly round the old ball of a
plant when being re-potted. For example, when a plant

Ferns and Fern Culture. 29

from a 6in. pot is being put into a Tin. or 8in., without
one of these sticks there would be difficulty in getting
the new soil all round the ballin a proper manner. By
means of the stick there is no difficulty whatever.

One stick should be 14in. or 15in. long, lin. wide, and
lin, thick, rounded at the bottom, and the rough edges
smoothed; another should be 10in. or 12in long, lin.
wide and 3in, thick; and one Sin. or Yin. long, jin. wide,
and jin. thick, made slightly thinner at the bottom for
small pots. When these are used the potting is better
performed, and there is no risk of breaking the roots. A
piece of slater’s lath will do for the largest, a double
thick plasterer’s lath for the medium, and an ordinary
lath for the smallest. They should be smoothed at the
top, so that they may be handled with comfort.

Section 3.

COMPOST FOR VARIOUS GENERA,

Growing in Pots, Pans, or Baskets.

BoTRYCHIUM. OPHIOGLOSSUM.

>si|HE British species of these genera grow in
i} meadows in pure loam, therefore they simply
require fibrous loam. When these are being
collected from their native homes, they should
be taken up with a piece of the grass sod in which they
are growing, as they are difficult to establish if their
roots are disturbed. The exotic species should be potted
in equal parts of loam and peat.

ADIANTUM.

Fibrous loam, leaf mould, and sand, in equal quan-
tities. Adiantum Farleyense frequently fails to grow
satisfactorily, owing to having peat in its compost.
Some of the strong-growing species may do with a little,
but all are better without it. .

ADIANTOPSIS. ANEMIDICTYON,
AGLAOMORPHA. ANGIOPTERIS,
ALEURITOPTERIS. ARTHROPTERIS,
ALSOPHILA, ASPIDIUM.

ANEMIA, ATHYRIUM.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 31

BALANTIUM. LINDSAYA.
BLEcCHNUM. LONCHITIS.
BRAINEA, LITOBROCHIA.
CAMPYLONEURUM. LLAVEA.
CERATODACTYLIS, LYGODiCTYON.
CETERACH (Exotic.) LyGopium.
CIBoTiuM. MENISCcIUM.
CYATHEA, MIcRosoRUM.
CYRTOMIUM. MougRIiA.
DENNST ZDTIA. NEPHRODIUM.,
DICKSONIA. OLFERSIA.
DICTYOGRAMMA. ONOCLEA.
DISPHENIA. PHEGOPTERIS.
DoopiA. PHLEBODIUM.
DoRYOPTERIS. PHYMATODES.
ELAPHOGLOSSUM. PLATYLOMA.
FADYENIA. PLEOONEMIA.
GONIOPTERIS. PLEOPELTIS.
GYMNOGRAMMA. PLEURIDIUM.
GYMNOPTERIS. PQ@cILOPTERIS.
HEMIONITIS. POLYBOTRYA.
HEMITELIA. PoLYSTICHUM.
HWYMENODIUM. PTERIS.
HYPovERIs. SADLERIA.
HYPoLePis. SALPICHLG@NA.
LASTREA. SELLIGUEA.
LEPICYSTIS. STENOSEMIA.
LOMARIA. STRUTHIOPTERIS.
LOMARIOPSIS. TRICHIOCARPA.
W oOoDWARDIA.

equal parts.

These all do well in loam, leaf mould, peat, and sand

DRYNARIA.
PLATYCERIUM.

POLYPODIUM.
SELAGINELLA.

Loam and sand equal with half as much more leaf mould
and a little chopped sphagnum moss,

32 Ferns and Fern Culture.

ACROPHORUS. LOPHOLEPIS.
ACROSTICHUM. LEUCOSTEGIA.
ACTINIOPTERIS. MARATTIA.
ANAPELTIS. NEOTTOPTERIS,
ASPLENIUM (Exotic). NIPHOBOLUS.
CALLIPTERIS. NIPHOPSIS.
CAMPTOSORUS. OLEANDRA.
DIDYMOCHLGNA. ONYCHIUM.
DIPLAZIUM. OSMUNDA.
DRYMOGLOSSUM. RHIPIDOPTERIS.
GONIOPHLEBIUM. STENOCHLENA.
THYRSOPTERIS.

For the above, loam, leaf mould, and sand in equal parts,
with a double quantity of peat.

DAVALLIA, HUMATA.
GLEICHENIA. NEPHROLEPIS.
The same compost as the preceding, but coarser and
more lumpy.

ASPLENIUM (British). CYSTOPTERIS.
CETERACH (British). ScOLOPENDRIUM.
Loam, leaf mould, sand, in equal quantities, with half as
much old mortar, and for Scolopendriums some oyster

shells broken small.

ALLOSORUS (Parsley Fern). Woops!IA.
Equal quantities of loam, sand, and leaf mould, with a
small quantity of slaty shale or broken sandstone.

CHEILANTHES, NoTHOCHL@NA. PELLZA,
Loam, leaf mould, sand, and peat in equal quantities
with a little small charcoal and sandstone.

HYMENOPHYLLUM, ToDEA, TRKICHOMANES,
Loam, leaf mould, sand, and peat in equal quantities,
with half as much charcoal and sandstone, all very rough
and open in order to allow a free passage of water. A
little chopped sphagnum moss may also be added.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 33

Although manure is not necessary for Ferns, many do
not object to it; the strong growing kinds particularly
appear to like it. That from an old mushroom bed may
be mixed in moderate proportion with the compost. A
small quantity of Ichthemic guano, or a little powdered
cow manure, may be added, but with caution.

The foregoing arrangement will be a guide to those
anxious to have their plants in the best possible condi-
tion. If the arrangement is adhered to, other conditions
being also favourable, the results will be entirely satis-
factory.

WARDIAN CASES.

The compost for Wardian cases should consist of loam,
leaf mould, sand, and peat in equal proportions, with
half as much charcoal, and if for Filmies, a little broken
sandstone, all rather rough and open.

WALLS. POCKETS.

Compost for Ferns planted against wired walls should
be rougher than that in pots and pans, but of the same
ingredients, For small receptacles like cork pockets and
fern tiles fastened against walls it should be similar to
that used for pots, Whenever good peat is unobtainable
an extra quantity of leaf mould should be put in the
compost,

ROCKWORK.

Compost for this, whether indoors or out, should be
specially rough and open, the roughest being used for the
bottom and the finer for the upper portion of the pockets
in which the Ferns are planted. Compost for outside
ferneries should consist of loam, leaf mould, sand, and
peat in equal quantities, giving to Polypodiums a little
extra leaf mould; to Osmundas, extra peat; to Scolopen-
driums a little old mortar or oyster shells crushed small.
Blechnums cannot do with lime in any form. They
should therefore be planted quite apart from Scolopen-
driums and others of similar tastes.

Section 4.

VARIOUS HABITS OF FERNS.

3 #\ERNS are so diverse in their habits of growth
Ee a and in the character of their foliage that a
y ye knowledge of the particulars in relation to the

more distinct kinds will materially assist the
cultivator in providing the conditions under which the
plants will be most at home.

The majority grow on the ground, on raised banks, in
gullies, glens, ravines, in forests, woods, and some in the
open country exposed tothe fullsun. These have usually
upright foliage of a more or less drooping habit. They
are suitable for pot culture or for planting in rockwork.
Others grow in elevated positions, on the ledges of rocks,
on trees, and in places where their pendent fronds
hang unobstructed. These are suitable for cultivation in
baskets suspended from the roof of the fernery. If in
pots they should be raised up sufficiently to allow the
foliage to develop naturally and show to advantage.
Among these the following may be enumerated: Adian-
tum dolabriforme, A. caudatum, A. ciliatum, Asplenium
longissimum, most of the Davallias, Goniophlebium
chnoodes, G. subauriculatum, G. verrucosum, most of the
Nephrolepis, Platyceriums, and Woodwardia radicans.

Others creep along the ground, over damp rocks, up
the stems of trees, round and round the branches, and in
every conceivable position of growth. These are suitable
for planting on blocks of virgin cork for suspending, at
the foot of Tree-ferns, on rockwork, or in other positions

Ferns and Fern Culture. 35

where they may freely ramble about. Members of the
following genera belong to this class: Anapeltis, the
smaller species of Davallia, Drynaria pustulata, Hypolepis
amaurorachsis, H. distans, Niphobolus, Niphopsis, Olean-
dra, Phlebodium venosum, Pleopeltis, the smaller species
of Polypodium, Stenochlcena, and some of the Selaginellas

ADIANTUM CILIATUM.
(Showing pendent fronds and drooping habit.)

Most of the Cheilanthes, Nothochlcenas, and Pellzas
grow in crevices of the rocks fully exposed to the
weather, unless they happen to be protected by some
overhanging projection. Their roots go deeply into the
cracks and fissures, obtaining moisture and nutriment,
while their foliage is exposed'to the elements. These

36 Ferns and Fern Culture

should be placed in light, airy’ positions, many of them in
cool houses, just protected during winter from the frost.
They must be attended to carefully, so that they may
not suffer from lack of water, as their compost, being
very porous, will allow the water to escape quickly. In
summer they will require an abundant supply, but in
winter only enough to keep them just damp.

The British Aspleniums, Ceterach and Cystopteris,
have the same habits, and should be treated in like man-
ner when cultivated in pots.

Lygodiums, Lygodictyon and Salpichloena volubilis
are climbers. They usually grow among bushes and
trees, producing fronds many yards in length, taking hold
of and climbing round any twig or branch with which
they come in contact. They soon produce great tangled
masses of foliage, while some of the fronds, taking an
upward course, reach the tops of the trees. Most of the
species form buds in the axils of the branches and at the
apices of the fronds. From these fresh growth takes
place the following year. As this is repeated again and
again the fronds attain an indefinite length. This habit
of growth necessitates support for the foliage. They may
be trained up sticks or twine in pyramidal form; on wire
netting in the shape of a cylinder three or four feet
high, and the width in proportion to the size of the pot
in which the plant is growing; on wire balloons; up
perpendicular wires leading to the roof, and then hori-
zontally along other wires. If planted at the base of
pillars or of wire archways they may be trained so as to
form ‘a beautiful verdant covering ; and if in a border,
with stakes driven into the ground and wires stretched
to the roofs, they may be employed to hide many an
unsightly wall.

Filmy Ferns, consisting of the genera Hymenophyl-
lum, Trichomanes, and Todea (excepting one or two of
the latter), are a most beautiful and interesting section.
Their fronds are thin and membranaceous in substance.
Their peculiarly delicate nature necessitates their being
constantly in a moisture-laden atmosphere. They are
found in both tropical and temperate climates, but
always in positions where it is cool, shaded, and damp.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 37

In the warmer climates they abound in moist forests on
the mountains, covering the damp rocks and clothing
the stems of trees. The heavy rain and mist cause their
foliage to be in a continually dripping condition, the
moisture hanging in drops at the tips of the divisions of
the fronds, like myriads of diamonds. In the cooler
climates they grow in ravines and gullies and on drip-
ping rocks, rarely in exposed situations.

TRICHOMANES RENIFORME.
(The New Zealand Kidney Fern.)

To imitate these conditions of growth they require a
cool house, shaded from the rays of the sun, and either
glazed very tightly so as to keep the house close and free
from draughts, or the Ferns must be covered by glass
shades or frames. Many of the species, notably the
Todeas, are so hardy that they will bear many degrees of

38 Ferns and Fern Culture.

frost without injury, although it is unquestionably better
to keep the temperature from falling below 35°. The
Todeas have upright stems, and in time form miniature
Tree-ferns. They may be planted in pots, pans, or rock-
work. The Hymenophylle and Trichomanes are nearly
all creepers. Their thin rhizomes spread freely, and
necessitate their being in pans, or rockwork, or on the
stems of Tree-ferns. For Wardian cases these are un-
equalled by any other class of plants.

HYMENOPHYLLUM TUNBRIDGENSE.
(The Tunbridge Filmy Fern.)

If the atmosphere of the house or frame can be densely
laden with moisture, so as to keep the foliage always
damp, the Filmies will not require watering overhead.
This may sometimes be accomplished by sprinkling
plenty of water on the paths, walls, stages, and rock-
work. If this is not sufficient they will require dewing
overhead with the fine rose of a syringe. Sometimes
this causes discolouration of the foliage. When it does
it is probably the result of some injurious element in the
water. Only soft, tepid water should be used, and with

Ferns and Fern Culture. 39

just sufficient frequency to keep the foliage always
damp.

Tree-ferns are very tropical-looking, and so distinct
that specimens should be in every collection. The
Alsophilas, Cibotiums, Cyatheas, Dicksonias, and some
Lomarias are comparatively hardy and easily managed.
The stems should be frequently syringed or watered to
keep them damp. They produce many roots from the
bases of the fronds at the top of the stems, and when the
stems are kept damp these roots work their way down
to the soil, adding thickness to the stems and strength to
the plant. If a thin layer of sphagnum moss be bound
round the stems with fine copper wire, it will retain
the moisture and preserve the roots in their downward
course; besides, many seedling Ferns will come up on
it, adding much to the appearance of the tree. If the
smaller species of Davallias, such as bullata, dissecta,
decora, Mariesii, also Anapeltis nitida, Drynaria pustu-
lata, and other creeping Ferns, are planted at the base of
each stem, they will creep up and clothe it with foliage in
« very interesting manner. Brainea insignis, Lomaria
gibba, and the miniature L. L’Herminierii, with some of
the Alsophilas and other genera, should have a warm
greenhouse temperature, or they will not grow satis-
factorily.

The Gold and Silver Ferns are not only interesting but
exceedingly beautiful, The bright yellow, silvery white,
or cream coloured, farinose powder more or less coating
their fronds above and below, gives them a specially-
attractive appearance. They are found in various
climates, hence some require stove temperature, others
warm greenhouse, while a few will do nicely in cool
houses with a winter temperature of 35° to 40°. They
belong to the genera Adiantum, Cheilanthes, Gymno-
gramma, Nothochlcena, and Pellza. The tropical or
stove species require a dry atmosphere, so if there is
any part of the house dryer than another they should
be placed there. They should have an abundance of
light, their roots should never be allowed to become dry,
and their foliage must never be wet, either by syringing,
watering, or drip from the roof.

40 Ferns and Fern Culture.

All require the same treatment in respect to damp
roots and dry foliage. If the fronds are wet by any
means, the water washes off the powder, causing an
unsightly appearance on the soil, and, worse still, decay
of the fronds, which, of course, injures the plants.

Elk’s Horn and Stag’s Horn Ferns belong to the genus
Platycerium, and are the most remarkable of the whole

ae

A

GYMNOGRAMMA PERUVIANA ARGYROPHYLLA.
(A Silver Fern.)

family. They have received their common appellation
on account of their striking resemblance to the antlers
of the animals whose names they bear.

They grow upon trees, in the forks of the branches or
on the stems, to which they attach themselves by their
roots. The sterile fronds or shields, as they are com-
monly called, grow upwards, at the same time turning

Ferns and Fern Culture. 41

backwards and wrapping round the roots and body of
the plant. It looks then almost like a large, green, open
fan, the horizontal parts turned completely back, the
other parts more or less erect and deeply lobed. The
fertile fronds of some species are also erect, but entirely
differentin form from the sterile. At first narrow and
firm, they gradually flatten, spread out, and divide into

PUATYCERIUM ALCICORNE,
(The Stag’s Horn Fern.)

deeply-cut lobes, more or less drooping. In other species,
such as grande, they are pendent ; in biforme they hang
down several feet. Their appearance is remarkable in
the extreme. The best way to cultivate this genus is by
fastening the plants on pieces of charred wood, blocks of
virgin cork, or pieces of Tree Fern stems suspended from
the roof or against a wall.

42 Ferns and Fern Culture.

Flowering Ferns, so called, form a curious but not a
large section. That which gives rise to the term is the
peculiar arrangement of the spore cases. In the majority
of Ferns the spore cases are produced underneath the
fronds, occasionally at the edge, and in one notable in-

OsMUNDA CLNNAMOMEA.
(Example of so-called “ Flowering Ferns.”)

stance, Polystichum anomalum,“%on [the top as well as
underneath. In the Flowering Ferns the spikes bearing
the spore cases stand erect, in some species they spring
from the sterile portion of the frond, in others the fertile
fronds are entirely destitute of leafy portion. The

Ferns and Fern Culture. 43

section includes Anemia, Anemidictyon, Botrychium,
Ceratodactylis, Llavea, Onoclea, Osmunda, and Struthi-
opteris. Other genera are sometimes included in the
section, but these named are the most distinct. They do
not require any special treatment, and they form a
feature of interest among other Ferns,

OsMUNDA REGALIS.
(Example of so-called “ Flowering Ferns.’’)

Section 5.

VARIOUS MODES OF CULTIVATION.

aN account of the varied modes of growth the
manner of cultivation has to be varied. Ferns
having an upright or a slowly-creeping root.
stock (stem), or those growing from a cluster
of crowns, are suitable for cultivation in pots. As they
usually send their roots further down than others, the
depth of soil in a pot is acceptable, and necessary to hold
the tall-growing species in their places.

Those with rhizomes do not usually root so deeply, but
as they spread quickly, either under or above ground, they
require more surface and less depth. This is obtained by
using round pans. The principal genera and species
of this class are: Adiantum zthiopicum, A. amabile,
A. assimile, A. capillus veneris and its varieties, A.
diaphanum, A. venustum; Aglaomorpha; Anapeltis;
Arthropteris obliterata; Asplenium obtusilobum; Camp-
tosorus ; nearly all the Davallias; Drymoglossum ; Dry-
naria; Gleichenia; Goniophlebium ; Hymenophyllum ;
Leucostegia ; several Litobrochia ; Lomariopsis ; Lopho-
lepis ; Nephrolepis; Niphobolus; Niphopsis; Oleandra ;
Phlebodium; Phymatodes; Pleopeltis; many Poly-
podiums; Rhipidopteris ; Stenochlena; Trichomanes,
and nearly all Selaginellas.

For rockwork, properly constructed, nearly all Ferns
are suitable, judgment being exercised in planting the
different varieties in the places best adapted for them,
considering their habits of growth, size, vigour, and
other necessary matters.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 45

For baskets, some kinds are specially fitted. Many
with creeping rhizomes, and others which do not creep
but have drooping fronds, are suitable. A list appears
further on, giving the most desirable kinds for this
purpose.

Blocks of cork suspended from the roof, planted with
suitable kinds, are exceedingly ornamental. For various
reasons they are superior to baskets, and they look a
great deal more natural. Davallias, Anapeltis, and
others twine round and round them, just as they grow
in their native homes, appearing to find exactly the con-
ditions in which they delight.

Unsightly walls can be covered with Ferns and made to
look very attractive, if properly done and planted with
suitable varieties. Walls may also be covered with virgin
cork pockets, arranged so that the Ferns planted in them
may almost hide the wall. Fern tiles are used for the
same purpose. They are made to fasten against the wall,
joined end to end, and forming a trough to hold compost,
Arranged one height above another they are better for
Ferns than cork pockets, because they hold more soil.
Ferns do very well in them, but until the plants have
made good growth, and to a considerable extent hidden
the tiles, the effect is not so pleasing as when cork is used
to hide the brickwork. Narrow borders under the edges
of stages, with a little rock worked in, and planted with
the smaller-growing varieties, will often make a great
improvement in the appearance of a house.

Dead Tree-ferns, with a nice drooping Fern planted on
the top, and smaller ones fastened on with a little soil
and moss, wrapped round with wire to hold them in
position, look very ornamental.

Upright cylinders, of various diameters, made of wire
netting lined with moss, filled with compost, and secured
by a stake through the centre, form a foundation upon
which may be planted creeping Davallias, Anapeltis,
Lomariopsis, Oleandras, Pleopeltis, Stenochloenas, and
similarly habited species. These will soon cover the
foundation by their luxuriant foliage. A pillar of this
kind may be utilised for the training of Selaginella Will-
denovii, with its abundant and most beautiful iridescent

46 Ferns and Fern Culture.

foliage, and it will constitute a splendid ornament of
nature. i

Iron pillars, sometimes indispensable in ferneries, and
yet eyesores, if surrounded by wire netting, with room
left for a lining of moss and a quantity of soil, may be
converted into ornaments by planting small Ferns in the

2.

‘Tree Fern STEM.
(Showing Ferns planted on it.)

moss and keeping the wholedamp. They will soon grow,
and pay well for the little expense and trouble incurred:

POTTING.

The time for potting stove and warm greenhouse
varieties is February or the beginning of March; for

Ferns and Fern Culture. 47

hardier kinds March. It is advisable to attend to this
matter just as the Ferns are beginning to grow, and
before their new foliage isdeveloped. At this stage those
to be divided may be operated upon with least injury or
check to them; those which require their balls reducing,
and those to be put into larger pots, can all be manipu-
lated with the least risk of injury. Large plants should
be examined and potted if they require it; but it is not
necessary to repot such every year. It is advisable not
to do so. When they actually need it they must be care-
fully turned out of the pots, and if the ball will admit of
reducing this should be done by means of a sharp pointed
stick, worked carefully among the roots, retaining them
as intact as possible, and removing the old exhausted
unoccupied soil in the middle of the ball. This operation
will possibly allow the plant to be put back into a pot
the same size as before. Under any circumstances the
plant must not be put into a pot larger than actually
necessary. Smaller plants should be treated in a similar
way. If they can safely be reduced let it be done, and
the plants; put back into pots the same size, or a little
larger, as may be required. Small plants, in three or
four inch pots, if pot-bound, should have their roots
carefully loosened, and be put into larger sizes. The
following matters cannot receive too much attention :—

Ferns must not be overpotted. They must not have
their roots torn away or broken off.

A plant with its roots matted together in a hard mass
should not be put into a larger pot until they have
been carefully loosened as much as possible.

The overpotting of plants is unquestionably the cause
of the death of thousands every year, and it must be
avoided. Roots that have filled the bottom of the pot
and become matted among the crocks, unless they can be
safely disentangled, had better be left without distur-
bance at all, leaving the crocksin. The roots must not
be torn away to remove the crocks, or the plant will be
deprived of the best part of its feeders, and will suffer
accordingly. Small plants may require potting several
times during the year, as, in the growing season, under
favourable conditions, they make roots very quickly.

48 Ferns and Fern{Culture.

eget :

It is by far the better plan to repot several times as
required, giving a slightly larger pot each time, than to
put a plant out of its pot into one much larger, with the
object of saving the trouble of repotting in a month or
two. The first plan will result in the plant obtaining
the full value from each small supply of new soil, while
the latter plan—which is really overpotting—will pro-
bably cause sickness and death. The reason for this
is difficult to understand, yet it is a stubborn fact ; there-
fore, amateurs may take! warning, and professional
gardeners, too, for overpotting is a very common
practice.

Plants require repotting less frequently the larger
they become and the larger the pots are in which they
are growing. This operation may be continued through
spring and summer, but it is as well to cease at the end
of September. After that time little growth will be
made, and the adding of new soil, if it did not cause
injury to the plant, would be of no use, for its properties
would be washed away before the spring by the con-
tinued watering in the meantime.

Pots must be clean when used. If new, they should
be dipped in water until they cease to absorb it. Those
used before must be scrubbed with a brush and hot
water both inside and out, then allowed to dry before
being used again. Pots dirty on the outside look
slovenly ; if dirty inside, they are sure to cause injury
to the plant when next it has to be removed. A wet or
a dirty pot will cause theZnew soil to adhere so tena-
ciously that it will be impossible to turn the plant out,
for repotting, without leaving behind a lot of soil and
roots, and breaking up the ball, thereby causing injury.
If « new pot is used without first being dipped to a
sufficient degree in water, when the plant has been put
in, it will quickly absorb moisture from the soil, and
probably cause the plant to suffer before the evil is
detected ; the soil will also adhere to a new dry pot, as it ,
will to a dirty old one, and lead to mischief in that way.

Pots become green when in use as the result of vegeta-
tion growing upon their damp surfaces. This should be
removed by frequent washing with a scrubbing brush

Ferns and Fern Culture. 49

and hot water. The result will be two-fold—improved
appearance and benefit to the plant by opening the pores
of the pot and allowing the passage of air to the roots.

Healthy plants having filled their pots with roots may
be repotted thus: From 3in., to 44in., from 44in. to 6in.,
from 6in. to 8in., from 8in. to 10in. or llin., and from
10in. to 18in., and so on. The measurements given are
those across the pot inside at the top.

The soil and the pots being ready, the latter should be
crocked, that is drained, by putting a piece of broken
pot, large enough to cover the hole, hollow side down-
wards, with a number of others over and around it to
the depth of an inch or so, according to the size of the
pot. On the top should be placed a layer of moss or
leaves. The object of the crocks is to allow the surplus
water to drain away, and the moss is to prevent the soil
washing among the crocks and stopping up the drainage,
which would soon cause the soil to turn sour. The plant
to be repotted may be turned out by placing the left
hand over the ball of the plant, turning it upside down,
and giving the edge of the pot a sharp knock on the
bench. The pot may then be removed with as much soil
and drainage as possible without injuring or breaking off
the roots. A little soil should be put in the fresh pot on
the top of the moss, the plant placed upon it, pressed
down, and filled all round the ball with fresh soil, making
it firm, but not hard, with the potting stick. The top of
the ball should be low enough to allow a good supply of
water being given—for example, in a 4in. pot it should
be 3in. below the rim, the depth being increased accord-
ing to the size of the pots used.

The crowns of Ferns should be kept well out of the
soil, and never buried, otherwise there is danger of their
rotting. Some grow with underground rhizomes, which
skould be buried; others have rhizomes running on the
surface, and these should be fastened down with small
pegs of wood or wire.

This brings to view the necessities of those species for
which pans have been recommended. Like pots, they
must be clean, not wet, yet not as dry as from the kiln.
They should be drained, covering the holes with large

D

50 Ferns and Fern Culture.

crocks, and filling up an inch or more with smaller
pieces. The drainage being covered with moss or some
substitute, there should be put in a layer of very rough
compost, higher in the middle than the sides, then some
a little finer, and so on, until there is sufficient to plant
the Ferns. When this is firmly done, and all the
rhizomes pegged down and well watered, it will require
little further attention, except watering, for some time.

As the rhizomes grow they will have a tendency to
come over the side. This should be prevented by care-
fully turning them on to the soil and pegging them
securely. The rhizomes will then continue to root and
add strength to the plant; but when they get beyond
the damp soil, and stretch over the side, they cease
sending out roots, and instead of adding to the strength
of the plant they have to be supported by it, which
results sooner or later in unnecessary exhaustion.

The compost in the centre of the pan may be raised in
the form of a cone, using rough pieces of peat as a
foundation, all being made quite secure. This will pro-
vide greater surface, and a congenial position for the

. rhizomes of the smaller Davallias, Anapeltis, &c., which
will creep up, over, round and round, and make specially
beautiful specimens, A little extra care will be required
to prevent these becoming dry.

Ferns to be repotted must not be wet and sodden, nor
yet very dry. The operation cannot be performed satis-
factorily in either case. The soil should just be in want
of water. If too wet, it will become very hard in the
process of repotting ; if too dry, the water will not after-
wards penetrate the old ball, it will become dust dry, and
the plant is sure to suffer.

The roots should be spread out as much as possible,
not crammed together in a bunch, as is sometimes done.

BASKETS.

Baskets should be made up every spring, as the large
amount of water given to them during the previous
season is sure to have washed away all the good qualities
of the soil not absorbed by the Ferns. Baskets are to be
seen in various shapes, and made of various materials—

Ferns and Fern Culture. 51

the highly-ornamental wire basket, and the plainer kinds
of galvanised wire; the square wood and the terra-cotta
baskets, such as are often used for orchids.

The very ornamental ones are often difficult -to deal
with, and they have also a tendency to look artificial,
and not in character with the plants. The plain, gal-
vanised baskets, with stiff suspending wires, are for
some reasons preferable. The wooden ones, when not
too heavy, look still better and more rustic ; the terra-
cotta are sometimes passable, and at others objectionable.

BaSKET WITH FERNS PLANTED.

Individual taste must decide the kind to be used; so far
as the Ferns are concerned all are much alike to them.
The best material wherewith to line the baskets is
green wood-moss, in as large thick flakes as can be
procured. The nextis living sphagnum. A good thick
lining should be placed in large baskets, and a few large
pieces of charcoal, to partially fill the basket, so that it
will not be so heavy as if filled entirely by soil. Smaller
baskets will require less moss and will do without
charcoal. If moss is not procurable, pieces of fibrous

52 Ferns and Fern Culture.

peat may be used, but this looks clumsy compared with
the other. The wood-moss, or sphagnum, if in good
condition, and placed green side out, will often grow,
adding’ materially to the appearance of the basket.

When the Ferns are planted, the centre should be
lower than the sides, otherwise when water is given it
will run off instead of through the soil.

There are many beautiful Ferns suitable for this style
of culture, a list of which is given further on. If small
Ferns and Selaginella are planted in the sides and
bottom of the basket the appearance is improved.

59)

Basket READY TO BE PLANTED.

HANGING BLOCKS OF VIRGIN CORK.

To prepare these, various sizes of slightly-curved or
semi-tubular pieces should be selected ; copper tacks, one
inch long; thin copper wire, like thread, to secure the
plants on the cork, and thicker copper wire for sus-
pending the blocks; some large flakes of moss and
ordinary open compost, such as is recommended for
Davallias. The piece of cork should be laid ornamental
side down; copper tacks should be driven into it just
below the edges, two inches apart. One large or several
pieces of moss must then be laid on the cork, green side
down, a little compost put upon it, and the Ferns put in
position. The whole should be pressed firmly down, the

Ferns and Fern Culture. 53

moss hanging over the sides must be turned over the soil
and worked round the crowns of the plants and under
the rhizomes of those of that mode of growth. A length
of thin wire must be fastened to a tack at one side
and carried over to a tack on the other side, giving it
a turn round that, and so on backwards and forwards
until the network is sufficient to hold the moss, soil, and

Brock oF Viren Cork with Fern.
(For suspending.)

Ferns firmly in position. The tacks should each be driven
up to the head and all will be secure. The hangers must
be formed of thicker wire, pushed through the cork,
turned up and knocked in to be quite firm, the tops
drawn together and united by a hook, as in the case of
ordinary wire baskets. All rhizomes should be pegged

54 Ferns and Fern Culture.

down on the moss, the plants watered, and the operation
will be complete.

The first result obtained is a much more natural-
looking mass of Ferns than can possibly be in any kind
of basket—the ultimate result is a very beautiful object
when the creeping Davallias and others have twined
round and hidden the whole block by their lovely foliage.

For suspending from the roof three or four hangers
should be attached, but if to hang against a wall one
only is necessary. In the latter case the position of
the plants on the cork will have to be considered, so that
they may hang gracefully and to the best advantage.
When, by oversight, these or baskets of other descrip-
tions have become very dry, it is advisable to dip them
in a pail of water for a few minutes. Ordinarily they
may be watered in the usual way by a can with a rose.

FERNS IN ROCKWORK.

When planted in rockwork, indoors or out, Ferns
require much less attention than when in pots. They do
not need watering so frequently, neither do they require
re-planting nearly so often; but when the compost is
good and the drainage perfect they will grow for years
without having to be disturbed. They attain a size and
luxuriance rarely seen under other modes of cultivation.
When rockwork is being planted there must be due
consideration of the size to which the plants will grow;
also their habits, so that overcrowding may be avoided.
They must have room to develop their fronds perfectly,
and the large ones must not bury or keep the light
unduly from the smaller species. All should be so
arranged that light may penetrate to every plant, other-
wise the result will not be satisfactory.

MOSS-COVERED WALLS.

One way of hiding unsightly walls is by stretching in
front lengths of wire netting of 2in. mesh. This must
be secured by hooks driven into the wall of sufficient
strength and number to hold the wire in position, about
five inches from the wall. When the lower length is

Ferns and Fern Culture. 55

fixed it must be lined with moss, on the same principle
and for the same purpose as the wire baskets. The space
behind should be filled with rough open compost. The
Ferns should be planted as the work proceeds, this being
much more easily done than when left to the last. As
one height is completed the next may be taken in hand,
and so on till the whole wall is covered, Each height of
wire must be fastened by its lower edge to the one below
it to prevent its bulging, or the trickling out of compost.
If moss is unprocurable, the lining may be of thin flat
pieces of peat, filled behind in the usual way, but this
does not produce so pleasing an effect.

WALLS COVERED WITH OORK.

This method requires patience and perseverance, but
by its adoption walls may be made very rustic-looking.
The flattest pieces of cork are most easily put on. They
must be pressed close to the wall, and firmly secured
by means of strong nails driven through the cork and
between the bricks. The more circular pieces should be
used to form pockets to hold Ferns. The pockets should
be 12 or 14 inches deep, fitting close at the bottom, pro-
jecting at the top. Such pieces as cannot be pressed to
the wall easily may be made more pliable by cutting a
slit in the inner surface to weaken it, and to allow of its
being flattened. When the wall is covered, the crevices
should be filled with green moss; the holes in the pockets
should also be plugged with moss or peat, to prevent the
compost trickling or being washed out. All formality
of arrangement should be avoided, and there should be
sufficient pockets, so that when the Ferns are growing
the cork will be fairly well hidden.

WALL TILES.

When these are used they must be very securely
fastened, as the soil in them is very heavy when wet.
They give more room for the roots than the cork pockets.
After fixing them according to the instructions given by
the manufacturers, they should be ‘filled with compost
to such a height that when the plants are in the surface
may be an inch below the rim.

56 Ferns and Fern Culture.

ROCK WORK (INDOORS).

It is impossible to give more than a few general direc-
tions on this subject in the space at disposal.

The construction of a rock fernery in a natural manner
requires great experience, combined with a knowledge
of the various requirements of Ferns.

The stone suitable for the purpose is of three kinds—
sandstone, tufa, and limestone. Sometimes clinkers, or
large pieces of coke dipped in thin cement, are used,
These, however, are but a poor substitute for stone.

The plan of construction in all cases must depend
largely upon the space at command, Where it is possi-
ble to go down into the ground the effect will be much
finer than when the rockwork is all above the ground-
level. The beauty of Ferns is seen to best advantage
when looked down upon. The walks should undulate
and wind to and fro; they should be made of stone or
concrete with rugged steps here and there, the stone
rising on each side, as though the whole were cut out of
the solid rock. Bold projections may be arranged at
intervals, and so cause an entirely new view each step
that is taken. In building the stone together large
pockets shonld be provided, to hold a good supply of
compost, and these should be so arranged that they may
be connected with the bulk of the soil on which the body
of the rock is built. The arrangement of the stone
should be irregular and free from any appearance of
artificiality. The receptacles for the plants should
recede as they rise, and the rock should be fixed so that
the light may get to the lowest part without obstruc-
tion.

Arches may be ornamental, but they are not natural,
and though to a limited degree they may be tolerated in
a large place, the fernery will look better and more
natural without them, and certainly the Ferns will grow
more satisfactorily.

However large or small the fernery may be, it should
continually be kept in mind that vegetation below the
eye should be in equal or better condition than that
above. This can be secured only by allowing full access

Ferns and Fern Culture. 57

of light to every plant, therefore all undue obstruction
must be avoided.

The rockwork in a house must always be ona propor-
tionate scale to the house. Too much spoils the whole—
better have too little than have it overdone,

OUTDOOR FERNERIES.

There are many places in gardens where flowering
plants will not live, and in some of these Ferns will
grow beautifully, and convert an uninteresting spot into
a source of interest and much pleasure,

But there are so many exceedingly lovely varieties of
Hardy Ferns that it would be a great mistake to plant
them merely to fill a vacant space. They are worthy of
special attention, and of the most favourable position
that can be provided for them.

Hardy Ferns are easy to manage—in fact, there are no
other plants so easy of culture, and certainly none which
present so large a variety of graceful habit and curious
forms.

The easiest and most satisfactory mode of culture is to
plant them in borders, beds, or rock ferneries.

Many Fern lovers are so placed that they have not
even a smali garden in which to make a fernery. When
such is unfortunately the case, so unlikely a place as a
back garden may be utilised. A few rough boxes, six
or eight inches deep, covered with pieces of thin virgin
cork, will make suitable and rustic-looking receptacles
for them. The boxes should have holes bored through
the bottoms, an inch or two of broken pots placed inside
for drainage, next a layer of moss or leaves, and then the
compost. Some of the common British Ferns planted in
these contrivances will yield much pleasure and serve to
add no little charm to an otherwise dreary outlook.

A Fernery on a larger scale may be made by building
an edging of burrs two layers in height filled in with
compost, This would prove suitable, and may be pro-
vided with little trouble and expense. Those who have
gardens should select a shaded and sheltered position, as
little exposed to the sun as possible, and protected from
strong winds. The fernery may take the form of a

58 Ferns and Fern Culture.

border or bed. A position with a north aspect is th
one most suitable, so that the plants may have a maxi-
mum of light without scorching sun.

Ferns may be planted among shrubs, but it is better to
have the border or bed entirely of Ferns, so that there
may be nothing to interfere with the special charac-
teristics of these plants. There should be a mixture of
proper compost put into the border, to enable the Ferns
to grow satisfactorily.

The most pleasing kind of fernery is that constructed
of stone. in the form of rockwork. It may be on the

FERNERY ON LEVEL GROUND.

level ground, with mounds of soil and stone built up like
miniature hills, with intervening valleys ; or in the form
of a glen, or ravine, excavated to a greater or less depth.
In either case the paths should undulate, wind in and out,
and should approach in appearance as near as possible a
wild rocky pathway.

An excavated fernery will present a better appearance
than one on the level ground; the vegetation and its
surroundings being below the eye from various points of
observation will be seen to greater advantage. Still, a

Ferns and Fern Culture. 59

very beautiful arrangement is possible without excava-
tion.

In the construction of an outdoor fernery, as with
an indoor, experience, combined with a knowledge of
natural rock formation and the requirements of Fern-
life, is necessary before anyone can undertake and carry

ExcaVaTtED FERNERY.

through successfully the building of a large rockwork
fernery.

The following suggestions will help those who desire
to attempt the work :—

In whatever form the fernery may be arranged, drain-
age should be provided for the escape of surplus moisture.

60 Ferns and Fern Culture.

When it is a mound or ridge raised on the level ground,
holes may be dug down to the sand, filled with broken
bricks, clinkers, or stones covered with sods, or other
rough material, and the body of soil above. This will
provide a ready means for all surplus moisture to pass
away. If the fernery be sunk in the ground the water
will drain to the lowest part, and there provision must
be made for its disposal, either by enabling it to sink

FERNERY IN Form or A Mounp.

into the sand below, or by constructing a drain to carry
it elsewhere.

Sandstone is one of the best materials for rockwork.
Its colour harmonises with the various tints of foliage,
and all Ferns grow well in association with it. Thisstone
is found in strata having a gentle dip in a given direc-
tion, therefore when it is used the natural formation
should be imitated.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 61

Limestone is hard, and found in all sorts of curious
shapes. By the action of water some pieces have holes
through them, others channels washed in their surface,
with numerous chinks, crevices, and inequalities of out-
line. With this material a very ornamental rockery may
be constructed, in which Ferns will grow luxuriantly and
with pleasing effect.

In commencing the construction, the paths should first
be planned. From these the rockwork should rise in an
irregular mass. Large pockets should be formed in com-
munication with the bulk of the soil constituting the
foundation of the fernery.

The general outline should take the form of a series
of terraces, rising tier above tier, receding farther and
farther from the path. Blocks of stone here and there
should be placed to give character to the construction,
and to prevent the view being too extended from any
one point.

Every stone must be made perfectly secure, so that
rain, frost, and other influences may not destroy or cause
injury to the erection.

When the building is complete, some good compost for
the Ferns should be put into the pockets, in which to plant
the Ferns. Sometimes tree roots are used, but they soon
commence to decay, so they are not at all suitable for a
fernery which is to be of a lasting character.

ROCK-FERNERY WITH GLASS PROTECTION.

There is a wonderful difference between the condition
of Ferns growing in the open air and those cultivated in
a frame or unheated greenhouse. When protected from
the extremes of heat and cold, wet and drought, storms,
boisterous winds, and other injurious influences, their
foliage develops more perfectly, is of greater beauty, and
lasts much longer in nice condition. Not only are there
these advantages, but species such as Adiantum capillus
veneris, Asplenium lanceolatum, A. marinum, and others,
which rarely grow satisfactorily in the open air, may be
successfully cultivated with the simple protection of a
cold frame. When this form of fernery is being con-
structed, the walls should go well into the ground, the

62 Ferns and Fern Culture.

soil be excavated to the depth of 2ft., some good compost
being put{in. A miniature rockery may be built with
elevations, depressions, pockets, niches, and cosy corners
for rare and beautiful little species,

Sandstone, limestone, or tufa may be used for the
rockwork. The frame should have a northern aspect,
the stone being built up inside to hide the walls, and to
give the whole of the central part as diversified an
arrangement as can be secured in the space.

This will form a perfect treasure-house to the Fern
lover, for here, with the greatest ease, may be cultivated
many dwarf kinds of various genera, which are more
liable to be lost when fully exposed to the elements.

A frame should be occupied only by the smaller
species—the larger and stronger would be out of place.

Built in the manner described, facing the north, abun-
dance of light would be secured without the scorching
rays of the sun. The frame should have a good elevation
at the back, to give the glass at least an angle of. 45°.
Being sunk in the ground, the temperature would be
equable during both summer and winter. In the former
the heat would have little effect, and during the winter
it would be largely secure from the frost. If planted in
good compost the roots would revel in the cool moist
position among the stones, and the foliage, being
hardened by a gentle and continued circulation of air
overhead, provided by tilting the lights more or less
according to the weather, would be more beautiful than
even in their native rocks.

By carrying out this arrangement of rockwork in an
unheated house an additional benefit may be obtained,
as then the cultivator can walk about, and being under
cover may enjoy the pleasure attending the cultivation
of his plants, whatever the weather outside may be.
Being on a larger scale, larger species may be accommo-
dated and greater variety obtained also.

The cultivation of Ferns under these conditions is as
simple as it possibly could be. Once planted the only
attention necessary for a long time would be the giving
of water and the ventilation, while the results would be
highly gratifying.

Section 6.

LIGHT.

Wa\T is a very common idea that Ferns grow best
i/ in dense shade. This, however, is altogether
erroneous. It is true that some kinds of Filmy
Ferns are found growing in comparatively
dark places, but Ferns generally not only can do with an
abundance of light but they are much better with it.

A fernery should have in every case possible a north-
ern aspect. A southern aspect is not good, because,
unless shaded in some manner by trees or buildings,
during the summer it receives the full glare of the sun,
and means must then be taken to protect the plants from
the strong light and scorching rays. A span-roof fernery
should be built with its length running north and south,
and all roofs should have a pitch of 45° or 50°. A flatter
roof than this is likely to cause drip, which is as injurious
to Ferns as to other plants. A lean-to fernery, with
northern aspect, will require very little shading, even
during summer, and not any during the greater portion
of the year. The nearer the aspect is to the south, the
more shading will be required.

The rule is to provide the fullest possible amount of
light at all times, merely shading, when actually neces-
sary, to prevent very strong sunlight scorching or bleach-
ing the foliage.

From the beginning of September to the beginning
of March, shading will not be required on a fernery of
any aspect; on the other hand, the glass should be

64 Ferns and Fern Culture.

repeatedly washed outside and in, to enable all the light
to penetrate the fernery. The accumulation of soot and
dirt on the glass during winter becomes very detrimental
to the wellbeing of plants if allowed to remain. Fogs
are a great cause of this deposit, and not only so but the
ingredients of fog deposit are much worse to remove
than ordinary dirt if once allowed to become dry. It will
be wise, therefore, to: be lavish in the use of warm water
and brush to the outside during the autumn and winter
months. If the glass and rafters inside are washed occa-
siovally with warm water and sponge the house will look
cleaner and the plants will be much better for the labour
expended. In the beginning of March the atmosphere
becomes much clearer, the sun gains strength, and a
little shade soon becomes necessary for houses containing
stove Ferns if exposed fully to the sun. The hardier
greenhouse kinds will not require shade for some time,
and hardy Ferns not for two or three months. ‘ The
position of the house and the character of its inmates
will determine the time when shading becomes necessary.

MEANS OF SHADING.

Shade may be provided by blinds, or by one of numer-
ous preparations put upon the glass. Blinds form the
best means of shading. They should be fastened on
rollers, and so arranged that when the rope is released
the blind will roll down, and when no longer required
may be rolled up again and secured in its place.

There are various kinds of material suitable for blinds.
Thick Tiffany, Frigi domo, closely woven cotton netting,
and ‘The Willesden” rot-proof scrim canvas, the latter
being preferable to any of the others, as it combines
shading qualities with durability. These vary in thick-
ness. Fora house greatly exposed the thicker material
may be selected. Where little shade is required a thinner
material will be more suitable. The great advantage
connected with blinds over the permanent shading
material is that on wet, dull days, when there is little
or no sunshine, by keeping the blinds rolled up the full
light is admitted to the plants, greatly to their advan-

Ferns and Fern Culture. 65

tage. Also, every day, until the sunlight becomes too
strong, and in the afternoon and evening, when the sun
is no longer a source of danger, the plants can have the
full light. This is of the highest importance; it is the
cause of health and vigour of plants, which under other
conditions of shade would have been weakly and of far
less beauty.

When permanent shading is used in the form of powder
sold for the purpose, white should be selected; green
may obscure the glass more and produce a heavier shade,
but this is beneficial only for a small portion of the time
it is on the glass. It keeps out too much light at other
times, and even if only.a thin coating is put on the colour
is objectionable. Cream colour is better than green, but
white is best of all, for it will allow more light to pene-
trate on a wet or dull day, a matter not to be despised.

Whatever colour is used, it should be put on neatly.
The practice of syringing it on produces a most untidy
appearance as well as imperfect shade, and should not be
tolerated anywhere. As soon as it possibly can be dis-
pensed with, all shading should be removed, and the
plants allowed the unrestricted light. Ferneries should
never be glazed with green glass, but always with the
clearest that can oe obtained,

Section 7.

TEMPERATURE.

Tae A.ERNS require more or less heat, according to
ke yy their natural place of growth. Most of those
“iiq| from the Tropics require stove temperature.
If, however, they grow high up the mountains,
where the temperature is much lower than near the sea
level, they may be cultivated in a warm or cool green-
house. Some species are found in both hot and cold
climates, hence they may be cultivated in various
temperatures.

For convenience of cultivation the whole family may
be divided into classes—those requiring stove tempera-
ture, those suitable for a warm greenhouse, and those
which may be successfully cultivated in cool greenhouse;
those more hardy for cold greenhouse or frame, and the
perfectly hardy species.

STOVE TEMPERATURE.

This need not be so high for Ferns as is often supposed,
neither must it be as high in winter as in summer.
Taking December as the starting point, the night
temperature should be 60° to 65°, rising to 70° during the
day. About the middle of January the days lengthen,
and as the light becomes stronger and of greater dura-
tion, the temperature should gradually rise and continue
to do so until by the end of May the maximum is reached
at 70° by night and 75° to 80° by day. This temperature
should be maintained during -June and July, when it

Ferns and Fern Culture. 67

should be gradually reduced, until by the end of Noveim-
ber the lowest point is again reached, at the season when
the days are short and the light faint. At any time the
temperature may rise 5° or 10° higher, as the result of
sun heat, but it is not wise to give more artificial heat
than is necessary to maintain a temperature indicated
by these figures.

WARM GREENHOUSE.

The temperature in December will be sufficiently high
at 45° to 50° by night, and 50° to 60° by day. As the days
increase in length the temperature should gradually rise,
until by the end of May it is 60° to 65° by night, and 70°
to 75° by day. In August it should begin to decline,
until the lowest point is reached in November.

COOL GREENHOUSE.

In a cool greenhouse the winter temperature by night
should be 40°, though 35° might not do any harm ; during
the day 45° to 50° should be maintained. In spring a
gradual rise should take place, until artificial heat is
dispensed with for the summer. The temperature, when
dependent upon natural heat, may sometimes, even in
summer, be so low, owing to a continuation of wet, cold
weather, that a little fire heat becomes advisable for a
short time. On the other hand, there is occasionally such
intensely hot weather that it becomes difficult to keep
the temperature down. This may be done by extra
shading, and a free use of water sprinkled on the paths,
walls, and stages, or rockwork. —

COLD GREENHOUSE.

The temperature of a house where there are no means
of supplying artificial heat should be regulated during
winter by outside covering. Perfectly Hardy Ferns are
the only suitable kinds to have in a house where the
frost may penetrate, and even for these it is well to use
all possible precautions to keep out the frost. Hardy
Ferns will bear many degrees without apparent injury,
but it is certainly an advantage to them when kept above

68 Ferns and Fern Culture,

freezing point. When frost penetrates, it immediately
affects everything damp. It often breaks pots, and
when it is severe it hurts the roots against the sides.. By
covering the place with mats or other materials, the
effects of the frost may be reduced considerably, and hy
plunging all pots in cocoa-nut fibre or leaf mould the
evils may be further reduced, resulting in undoubted
benefit to the plants,

VENTILATION.

Means for ventilation should always ‘be provided.
Ferns must not be subjected to cold draughts, yet ‘a
gentle imperceptible supply of fresh air given at the pro-
per time will prove of great benefit. There must be pro-
vision for the entrance of this at the lower part of-the
house, and for the escape of hot air at the top.

Often there are no means provided at the bottom for
the entrance of air, and when the ventilators at the top
are opened, a cold current at once rushes in, causing the
moisture to condense upon the foliage. In winter this
is particularly injurious to the plants, chilling them and
leading to discolouration of the foliage. By opening
ventilators at the bottom the fresh air enters at the pro-
per place, while the hot air freely escapes at the top. An
upward current is thus produced which prevents chilly
down draughts. a :

Ventilation may be given whenever the temperature
is high enough, care being exercised not to open. the
ventilators so wide that the temperature is suddenly
reduced. On windy or cold days special care will be
necessary. Air should be given as early in the morning
as possible, and left on as long in the afternoon as is safe.
This conduces to a sturdy growth, the foliage being
harder and more enduring than would otherwise be the
case.

WATERING.

There is more importance attaching to the watering of
plants than many people imagine. It must not be done
in a haphazard or careless manner, for injurious watering
causes a long train of evils. A clear and perfect know-

Ferns and Fern Culture. 69

ledge of the proper way can be obtained only by experi-
ence, but a little care in following certain rules will enable
the merest novice to steer clear of many dangers.

The soil in which Ferns are growing should always be
kept damp, but not in so thoroughly a wet condition as
to make it sodden. If it becomes very dry the plant
droops, shrivels, and sometimes dies ; if it is always very
wet it soon becomes sour.

Plants should be examined every day; in the morning
during winter, in the afternoon or evening during sum-
mer. Some plants will require water one day, others the
next. Whenever a Fern is becoming dry it should be
well watered, and not again until it requiresit. Itisa
bad practice to water plants when it is not necessary ;
it is also a bad plan to give only a little at a time, as by
that means the surface appears damp while at the roots
the soil is often dust dry. If the pot receives a sharp rap
the sound will at once indicate the condition of the soil.
If it be a ringing sound like that of a bell the plant should
have water, if it be dull and heavy, water is not needed.
If the plant does not actually require water at the usual
time of watering one day, but appears likely to become
dry before the ordinary time next day, it should be
watered in a few hours, out of the usual course. If this is
not practicable it will be better to water at once than run
any risk of its suffering in the interval. The water given
should be of the same temperature as the atmosphere of
the house, or, at least, it should have the chill taken off.

Watering Ferns under glass by means of a hose-pipe
attached to a cold water tap cannot be too strongly con-
demned. The water being colder than the air chills the
plants, many receive water when they do not require it,
and others may be missed; the foliage becomes drenched,
and a state of sickness soon ensues. All Ferns, except
Filmies, should have their foliage kept dry, and should
neither be watered overhead nor syringed. The foliage
so treated soon becomes discoloured, and dies, or it has
to be removed because of its objectionable appearance.
This is a direct injury to the plant. |

‘Sometimes, to save trouble or to cause a pretty (?) effect,
perforated pipes are laid round the fernery, so that by

70 Ferns and Fern Culture.

turning a tap the whole place can be filled by sprays of
water. This is a thoroughly bad practice and cannot
possibly end in anything but disaster.

Whether in pots, baskets, planted in rockwork, in
pockets, fern-tiles, or moss-covered walls, there is no
safe way of watering but by means of a can with or
without a rose. It certainly involves more time and
labour, but the results far more than compensate for the
extra trouble. Anyone refusing to spend the necessary
time and care in properly watering the plants must be
content to have less satisfactory results.

When a plant in pot or basket has become very dry it
should be placed in a pail of water for ten or fifteen
minutes until the soil is thoroughly wet.

Some cultivators have an idea that Ferns should be
“dried off” in autumn to give them a rest; even ever-
green varieties are treated so, while the deciduous kinds
when they have lost their foliage are put away and do
not receive water for weeks. This is wrong treatment
altogether. Deciduous as well as evergreen kinds should
always be kept damp. They do not need water so
frequently in winter as in summer, because they do not
take up so much moisture from the soil, and there is
not so much evaporation going on. Yet they must be
watered with sufficient frequency to keep the roots
always moist. Ferns growing wild in this country get a
great deal more water in winter than in summer; not-
withstanding this they lose their foliage and rest. Their
rest is not brought about by a lack of water, but to a
large extent by a lowering of the temperature. So,
under glass, if the temperature is reduced, this, with the
diminution of light, will bring a cessation of growth in a
natural manner. When the days begin to lengthen and
the temperature to rise, the plants will soon show
vitality and grow vigorously after their rest.

CUTTING FERNS DOWN.

There is a common idea that Ferns should have all their
foliage cut off in winter. This should not be done while
the fronds are green. The dead foliage of the deciduous
kinds should be removed when they are in greenhouses,

Ferns and Fern Culture. 71

as it looks unsightly, but the foliage of evergreen kinds
should not be cut off until it becomes discoloured, or is
in the way of the development of new foliage. In the
case of such as the Maiden Hair, where the new fronds
are produced very thickly together, it is wise to remove
the old just as the new ones begin to appear. If left on
till the new growth is pretty well advanced, there will
be more difficulty in removing them, and the new fronds
might be damaged. But in the case of species producing
only a few fronds in a season, and those at long inter-
vals, the old foliage should be left until it becomes
unsightly. As long asa frond is green it is of benefit to
the plant, and every green frond cut off is a more or less
severe Joss to it.

MOISTURE IN THE ATMOSPHERE.

This should always be maintained, especially during
the growing season. It can best be done by sprinkling
the paths, walls, and stages, or rockwork more or less
freely with water. On hot dry days this will be most
beneficial, not only to maintain the required dampness,
but to keep down the temperature. In winter, when the
fires are being pushed strongly to keep up the tempera-
ture, the artificial heat will cause a dry, parched air,
which must be remedied in the manner recommended.

A dry atmosphere has not only a tendency to restrict
development of foliage, but it encourages insect pests of
various kinds ; yet the other extreme must be avoided.
Too much moisture may cause the plants to damp off,
and will thus prove an evil. Judgment must be exer-
cised in order to obtain the condition most congenial to
the plants by attention to temperature, light, shade,
moisture, and ventilation, avoiding excess in everything.

Section 8.

FERNS IN DWELLING-HOUSES.

WHE condition of atmosphere and the lack of
light in dwelling-houses are such that few
Ferns can grow satisfactorily. They have a
better chance where oil is burned than when
gas is used for lighting, because gas dries and vitiates
the atmosphere to a much greater extent. They have
also a better chance in large than in small rooms, as the
fluctuations of temperature are neither so sudden nor so
extreme.

They are often killed by not having sufficient light.

They are frequently placed a long distance from the
window, where they soon become weak and sickly-look-
ing, and their owners wonder whatever isthe cause. Itis
impossible for plants to be healthy and strong without
plenty of light; therefore they should be as near the
window as possible, and be shaded only from the hot rays
of the sun.
A north window is the best, as the light is usually
allowed unrestricted entrance, neither is there any risk
of scorching at a window of this aspect. They do well
facing east, west, or south, though at the latter they
must be shaded when necessary. Apart from this, they
must have all the light with which it is possible to pro-
vide them. :

They should be kept out of draughts, as cold currents
of airdo them harm. A hot, dry atmosphere, caused by
large fires and burning of gas, is also injurious.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 73

Water must be given in sufficient quantity, and often
enough to keep them damp. They may not require a
supply every day, but they should be examined every
day. Ferns in small pots will require watering more
frequently than those in large ones; more attention is
also necessary when they are in warm than in cold rooms,
and in summer than in winter.

Tepid water must always be given. They must not be
allowed to stand in saucers of water, for this causes the
soil to go bad, and the roots to rot. The water should he
given at the top, and that which drains into the saucer
must be emptied away.

When plants become dusty they should be cleaned by
means of a soft sponge and warm water, or a soft brush.
It is not wise to put tender Ferns outside when it rains.

When suitable varieties are procured, and attention
bestowed upon them, there are no other plants so grace-
ful and beautiful for house decoration, and none which
brighten up and add so much to the cheerfulness of a
room.

WARDIAN CASES AND FERN STANDS.

A large number of Ferns may be cultivated in a dwell-
ing-house when they are planted in Wardian cases. The
glass keeps off the dust, and prevents the access of impure
air; it also keeps the atmosphere quiet and damp. This
is w great advantage, enabling many Ferns to grow
beautifully which could not possibly live if not so pro-
tected.

Fern stands usually consist of an earthenware bottom,
with a glass shade fitting inside the rim. These are suit-
able for a small number of plants, but the Wardian cases
may be made to hold any number.

The larger cases are often made witha door at each end,
but a better plan is for one side to open, as this allows
freer access to every part. Every stand and case must
have provision for drainage and for the escape of all
surplus water. The terra-cotta stands usually havea hole
at the sides, which may be closed by a cork when the
surplus water has escaped. The wooden cases should
be lined with zinc, and have a small tap by which to draw

7k Ferns and Fern Culture.

off water drained to the bottom. A layer of broken
pots, cinders, or gravel should be put at the bottom, about
lin. thick. On this should be placed moss or leaves, then
very rough compost, with finer at the top. (For kind
of compost see under heading ‘‘Compost for Wardian
Case.’’)

It is well for the soil to be a little higher in the centre
than at the sides; it should be pressed down moderately
firmly, to prevent its sinking afterwards. (For Ferns
suitable for cases see list further on.) After being planted,
the Ferns should be well watered, Filmy Ferns overhead,
other kinds only at the roots.. Tepid water should always
be given.

Fern STAND AND GLASS. FERN STAND,

The case should be placed as near the window as
possible. Facing north is the best aspect and facing south
the worst. The Ferns must have all the light possible,
but must be shaded from the hot sun. After a thorough
watering, little attention will be required for some time.
They should be examined every two or thres weeks, and
as soon as they appear to be getting dry they should he
well watered, Care must be exercised not to over-water
them, as fungus or mould will make its appearance, and
the fronds will damp off. When too wet, a green slimy
growth sometimes comes on the soil, and spreads to the

WiIINUUW UASHS,

These are made on the principle of the window boxes,
with glass all round and above, thus enclosing and pro-
tecting the plants from winds, storms, dust, and other
adverse influences’ to which those in simple window
boxes are exposed. The cases being built against the
window access is obtained by lifting the sash. This may
be raised the greater part of the day, but closed when
necessary to prevent ‘dust settling upon the plants; also
when the ‘room becomes hot from the burning of gas or
from other cause.

During severé weather, ifthe sash be raised, the warmth
of the room will help to keep the plants free from frost.
The Ferns may either be planted in soil or kept in pots,
When in the latter they will need water more frequently
than when planted out, as the soil in a pot dries more
quickly than a larger body filling the bottom of the case.
If exposed to the sun the case must be shaded at al
times when there is risk of the Ferns being scorched.

Fern STAND aND GLAss. FERN STAND.

The case should be placed as near the window as
possible. Facing north is the best aspect and facing south
the worst. The Ferns must have all the light possible,
but must be shaded from the hot sun. After a thorough
watering, little attention will be required for some time.
They should be examined every two or thres weeks, and
as soon as they appear to be getting dry they should be
well watered. Care must be exercised not to over-water
them, as fungus or mould will make its appearance, and
the fronds will damp off. When too wet, a green slimy
growth sometimes comes on the soil, and spreads to the

Ferns and Fern Culture. virk

WINDOW BOXES.

‘Windows may be greatly improved in appearance by
boxes of more or less ornamental character placed upon
the sills, and filled with plants. The position of some
windows is not at all suitable for flowering plants, but
shade-loving Ferns would grow there very nicely. The
boxes, if made of wood, should be as wide and deep as
the. position will allow, and be covered with virgin cork,
so that the ordinary wood is entirely hidden from all
points of view, inside and out. They should have holes
burnt through the bottom to allow the water to drain
away. They should be raised about an inch from the
sill, to allow a circulation of air underneath, which will
add to their durability.

A layer of crocks at the bottom, a covering of moss or
leaves, and the same kind of compost recommended for
outdoor ferneries, will be all that is necessary. A list of
suitable Ferns is given further on. When the Ferns are
planted they should be well watered. They will require
this frequently, as the body of soil not being large will
soon become dry, especially in hot weather. Very pretty
window gardens may easily be prepared in this manner,
and maintain an attractive appearance.

WINDOW CASES.

These are made on the principle of the window hence.
with glass all round ‘and above, thus enclosing and pro-
tecting. the plants from winds, storms, dust, and other
adverse influences to which those in simple window
boxes are exposed. The cases being built against the
window access is obtained by lifting the sash. This may
be raised the greater part of the day, but closed when
necessary to prevent ‘dust settling upon the plants; also
when the ‘room berate hot from the burning of gas or
from other cause: '

During severé weather, if the sash be raised, the warmth
of the room will help to keep the plants free from frost.
The Ferns may either be planted in soil or kept in pots.
When in the latter they will need water more frequently
than when planted out, as the soil in a pot dries more
quickly than a larger body filling the bottom of the case.
Tf exposed to the sun the case must be shaded at al
times when there is risk of the Ferns being scorched.

Section 9.

PROPAGATION.

Yé ERNS may be propagated from buds produced
on the fronds, from tubers and buds on the
roots, from bulbils formed on their creeping
sarmentum, by division of their crowns and
rhizomes, and from spores. Adiantum caudatum, A.
ciliatum, A. dolabriforme, A. lunulatum, many of the
Aspleniums, Fadyenia prolifera, Goniopteris reptans,
Polystichum lentum, P. proliferum, P. lepidocaulon,
P. viviparum, and a few others, produce terminal buds.
If the fronds are bent and pegged down so that the buds
touch the soil, they will emit roots, and soon be sutfi-
ciently rooted to support themselves. At this stage they
may be severed from the plant, and the frond allowed to
resume its original position. The young plants will now
require the same treatment as their parents, and will
soon make nice specimens.

Phegopteris effusus, Woodwardia radicans and its
varieties, produce several young plants on each frond.
These may either be pegged down or taken off. If put
into small pots in a frame, or covered by a glass to keep
them close, they will soon have an abundance of roots,
and send up young fronds.

Many Aspleniums, Lastrea prolifica, and Woodwardia
orientalis, produce on the upper surface of their fronds
a large number of tiny bulbils. These may be taken off
when large enough to handle. They should then be
pricked into pans of nice light compost, with a thin layer

‘Ferns and Fern Culture. 79

of silver sand on the top. After being carefully watered,
so as not to wash them out of their places, they should
be put in a frame or under a propagating glass, where
they will soon make nice little plants.

Doryopteris palmata, Goniopteris vivipara, Hemionitis
palmata, H. cordata, Stenosemia aurita, and a few others
which produce buds on different parts of their fronds,
should be pegged down to the surface of the soil, and the
young plants will soon be ready to take off and to com-
mence an independent existence.

Adiantum amabile (A. Mooreii) and A. diaphanum (A,
setulosum) produce numberless little plants on their
roots, both of them from buds formed there, the latter
from tiny tubers as well.

Adiantum ezthiopicum, A: assimile, A. formosum, A.
palmatum, Asplenium planicaule, Hypolepis Bergiana,
Struthiopteris Germanica, S. Pennsylvanica, and others,
with underground rhizomes, may be propagated by
carefully pulling them to pieces before they have com-
menced their new growth. Every piece of rhizome
should have a growing point and as many roots as
possible.

Nephrolepis Bauseii, N. Philippinensis, N. pluma, and
N. tuberosa, produce tubers like small potatoes on their
roots. When the plants are potted, the tubers should be
collected and placed in a pot by themselves. In a short
time they will begin to grow and develop into nice little
plants.

Most of the Platyceriums form small buds on their roots
These, if left until they have produced several barren
fronds or shields, may then be takén off and planted by
themselves.

The Nephrolepis send out a number of creeping stems
(sarmentum), which produce bulbilsatintervals. Whenon
a damp surface these will emit roots, and soon become
plants, which may be severed from the parent without
injury. Several of the Blechnums and Aspleniums
produce young plants in the same manner, though not
to so great an extent. In all such cases the plants may
be propagated readily by severing the creeping stems as
soon as the young plants are sufficiently rooted.

80 Ferns and Fern Culture

Those species with rhizomes creeping ahove ground are
easily propagated. Thissection comprises the Davallias,
commonly called Hare’s Foot and Squirrel’s Foot Ferns,
the Anapeltis, Drynarias, and many others. If the
rhizomes be kept pegged close to the soil they root as
they grow, and may be separated from the parent plant
by first cutting through the rhizome and then carefully
taking it up with all its roots attached, and two or three
fronds. When planted they should be pegged and made
secure, and they will soon become established. If the
rhizomes have extended over the sides of the pot they
will be destitute of roots. It will be useless to cut and
plant these unless the rhizome is traced back a sufficient
distance to take up with a number of roots attached. If
this is not done the part which has grown over the side
should be bent back, pegged on the soil, and left until it
has produced roots, when it may be separated with little
risk ; or a pot containing soil might be placed under it,
the rhizome pegged on, and left thus until rooted. There
are many different species amenable to this mode of
propagation, but in every case there must be a growing
point to the rhizome, besides fibrous roots, and, when
possible, several fronds.

Filmy Ferns, Hymenophylle and Trichomanes, may
be propagated in this manner, but they must afterwards
be kept very close and damp, where there is no evapora-
tion to affect them. They should be in a glass framé, or
under propagating glasses, until well rooted. All Ferns.
after being divided, are better placed in a close frame for
awhile. Although many do not actually require it, they
do not fee the disturbance so much, and they recover
from the check much more quickly when so treated.

Gleichenias are the must difficult: subjects to deal with
by division. Large plants can rarely be divided success-
fully. It is only by securing the youager part of the
rhizomes with fibrous roots and growing points that
success is possible. The old portion of the rhizomes is
valueless, only so far as its roots may help to support the
whole. They seldom, if ever, break out again; hence,
young, vigorous plants may be much more successfully
manipulated.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 81

Species such as Adiantum cuneatum and A. Farleyense,
which form clusters of crowns, may be propagated by
carefully pulling the crowns apart, retaining to each one
every root possible. To facilitate the operation the soil
should be gently shaken or washed away; the crowns
must then be separated, the roots disentangled, and the
plants potted at once to prevent their becoming dry.
They should be kept close and shaded for a few days to
prevent undue evaporation and loss of vigour. The plan
of cutting through the crowns and ball of roots is a very
bad one. It severs many roots from the crowns to which
they belong, and this materially reduces the ability of the
plants to survive. It is far better to take a little more
trouble and separate the crowns, carefully retaining the
roots as intact as possible. The best time for propaga-
tion by division in the various ways already described is
February and March. The plants are then either entirely
at rest or only just beginning to grow, and therefore do
not suffer as they would when in full growth. Those
with rhizomes may be divided when growing as well as
when dormant, and they will not feel any ill effectsif the
instructions here given are followed.

Ferns, which grow by means of an upright caudex, as
the Tree Ferns, and others which do not rise above the
soil but keep to one crown, are not amenable to increase
by division, but must be propagated from spores. Nearly
every species produces spores, though some of them very
sparingly, and a few varieties are quite sterile. There is
a marked difference in the freedom of germination of
some species and varieties as compared with others.
There appears to be a law operating among them which
in some mysterious manner restricts the production from
spores of those kinds.readily propagated by bulbils or by
division of their rhizomes; while, on the other hand,
those which can only be increased sparingly by division,
may be raised in thousands from spores.

SPORES.

Propagation by spores is the most interesting of all
means of increasing the stock of plants, and it is very
wonderful from first to last.

F

82 Ferns and Fern Culture.

COLLECTING SPORES.

The spores are contained in small sacs, arranged in
clusters or lines at the back of the fronds; sometimes in
large patches on certain parts of the fronds; at other
times spread all over the surface; and in some species
they are arranged along the edges. Some of the clusters
are covered by a thin membrane, which lifts up as the
spores approach maturity, rolls back, and sometimes
falls off or shrivels up. In many species the clusters are
not covered at all. When first formed the spore cases
are colourless, then pale green, and as growth advances
some become black, others green, and many of various
shades of brown. When the covering (indusium) begins
to lift, it isa sign that the spores are nearly ripe. The
spore cases themselves swell, and when the spores-in
them are matured the cases burst and scatter their
contents in the form of minute dust. Spores are of
many colours—black, dark brown, light brown, golden
yellow, and green. When ripe, the fronds, or that
portion bearing the spores, should be cut off, wrapped in
paper (white is the best), and put in a warm dry place.
On the following day the fronds will be shrivelled; but
lying on the paper there will be a dust-like substance,
which proves to be innumerable spores. "With these
there will always be a multitude of spore-cases which
have detached themselves from the frond in the act of
bursting. A casual observer might take the whole to be
spores, but an examination of the mass through a lens
will soon reveal the difference. This is important, as
those who are not acquainted with the difference often
take care of the useless cases and neglect the finer sub-
stance, which is the only valuable part. ;

Spores should be sown as soon after collection as
possible. If they are to be kept a long time they should
be put into bottles and tightly corked, when some of
them will retain their vitality for years.

SOWING THE SPORES.

Pots 4in, or 5in. in diameter are a convenient size in
which to sow spores. They should have an inch of

Ferns and Fern Culture. 83

drainage at the bottom, two or three inches of bog
broken small, a layer of compost like that used for the
generality of Ferns, and on this a layer of soil which has
been scalded or burned to destroy all germs of vegetable
life which might be in it. As some spores germinate
better on one substance than another it is well to vary
the surface layer. In one pot it may be compost as
mentioned above; in another, bits of brick or sandstone
broken small; in another, small pieces of peat; and in
another, loam in little lumps the size of a pea. Those
who are not successful with one medium should try
others for special kinds. The last layer should be about
an inch from the top of the pot, and when this is in place
the whole should be well watered. The spores must then
be scattered very thinly over the surface. The sowing
should be done in a perfectly still atmosphere, as the
slightest draught will send the spores flying about the
place.

The pots should have pieces of glass put over them as
soon as each one issown. These should be kept on con-
tinually to prevent the spores of other kinds getting in,
and also to keep a close moist atmosphere about the
spores. This helps them to germinate and grow more
freely afterwards. A dry atmosphere retards growth
and sometimes prevents it altogether.

The pots should be placed in saucers containing water.
This will rise up the compost and keepitdamp. Should
it be necessary at any time to give water in any other
way, it should be done by holding the pot in a pail of
water, so that it may soak up and saturate the whole.
The spores must not be watered overhead, as they would
be disturbed and washed out of their places.

The pots containing spores of Exotic Ferns should be
placed in a light position and in a temperature of 70°.
Many will germinate in a considerably lower tempera-
ture, but they will be longer in developing.

Hardy Ferns may be sown in ordinary greenhouse
temperature or in a frame, but in the latter they are
slower in developing than when in a higher temperature.

Spores vary greatly in the time they take to commence
growth. Some germinate in a day or two, others are

84 Ferns and Fern Culture.

months before there is any sign of progress. Even
those taken from one frond will vary, some of them
developing weeks before others sown at the same time
and in the same pot.

The first indication of growth is a faint colouring of
green on the soil. This increases until the surface is
covered by a flat vegetable growth resembling liverwort
in appearance. At this stage the mass should be separated
into little patches, and planted in other pots filled with
ordinary Fern compost. They may now be watered
overhead with a very fine rose, covered again with
glasses, and placed where they will receive plenty of light.
They will require to be kept damp. Ina short time tiny
fronds will make their appearance. They will soon need
further division, and eventually, when large enough to
handle, they may be potted singly, to go on their Fern-
life, developing beauty day by day, and soon bearing
upon their own fronds the germs of another generation.

The process of development is full of interest and
wonder. Not the least mysterions thing connected with
the raising of Ferns from spores is that it is no unusual
occurrence for a totally different kind to make its appear-
ance in a pot from that sown in it. The stranger is
sometimes in almost exclusive possession, while that
which was expected is conspicuous by its absence. Even
with the greatest care in sowing, many different kinds
will afterwards be found in one pot, so that it is impossible
to be sure of the species of the crop until the fronds are
developed. Many wonderful and unaccountable facts
might be referred to in connection with this subject, but
it may be left with a warning to the sower not to be
discouraged when matters do not turn out as expected,
but to try again, when possibly an unexpected treasure

may some day come up in the form of an entirely new
variety.

Section 10.

SELECTIONS OF FERNS.
Firry CHoIcE STOVE FERNS FOR Pots.

AIDIANTUM zemulum, A. Bauseii, A. cardioch-
“| loena, a large handsome species ; A. concinnum,
A. cultratum, A. dolabriforme, A. Farleyense,
an exceedingly beautiful variety ; A. Lathomii,
specially handsome; A. macrophyllum, young fronds

ADIANTUM FARLEYENSE,

86 Ferns and Fern Culture.

deep pink; A. Neo Caledoniw, A reginz, A. Sanctz
Catherinz, A. speciosum, A. trapeziforme, a splendid

DaVALLIA PARVULA.

species of large growth; A. villosum, Aglaomorpha
Meyeniana (the Bear's Paw Fern), Anemia adiantifolia,

GYMNOGRAMMA SCHIZOPHYLLA GLORIOSA.

Aspidium Plumierii, Asplenium Australasicum (the
Bird’s Nest Fern), A. Belangerii, A. formosum,

Ferns and Fern Culture.., 87

A. inequale, A. laxum pumilum, A, nobilis, a light,
feathery, and graceful variety; Blechnum gracile,
Cheilanthes elegans (the Lace Fern), very beautiful ;
Davallia dissecta, D. Fijiensis, D. Griffithiana, D.
parvula, very small fronds, finely cut, exceedingly
pretty; D. retusa, Drynaria muszfolia, the veining very
distinct ; Gleichenia dichotoma, Gymnogramma Alstonii
(Gold Fern), G. chrysophylla (Gold Fern), G. decomposita,
fronds very finely cut; G. Peruviana argyrophylla
(Silver Fern), G. schizophylla gloriosa, very beautiful,

NIpHOBOLUS HETERACTIS.

fronds cut into fine segments, of graceful drooping] habit ;
Lygodium dichotomum, a magnificent climbing Fern;
Nephrolepis davallioides, N. d. furcans, N. Duffii, N.
exaltata, Niphobolus Heteractis, Onychium auratum, a
very handsome species, fronds erect, finely cut; .Pheg.
opteris effusus, Phlebodium aureum, fronds large and
deeply glaucous; Pteris tricolor, P. Victoriz, very
prettily variegated ; Rhipidopteris peltata, small fronds,
fan-shaped, deeply cut.

88 Ferns and Fern Culture.

A SEconpD Firry CHoIcE STtovE FERNS FOR Pots,

Adiantum Aneitense, A. Collisii, A. concinnum latum,
A. curvatum, A. flabellatum, A. Flemingii, A. Peruvia-
num, A. pulverulentum, A. rhodophyllum, A. Seemannii,
A. tenerum, A. tetraphyllum gracile, A. Versaillense,
dwarf fronds, branched and crested, very pretty; A.

PTERIS TRICOLOR,

Victoriz, A. Weigandii, Anemia, collina, Aspidium tri-
foliatum, Asplenium Baptistii, A. bifidum, A. horridum,
A. obtusilobum, A. prolongatum, A, pteropus, A. vivi-
parum, Blechnum latifolium, Campyloneurum brevi-
folium, Cheilanthes radiata, Davallia alpina, D. elegans,
Doryopteris palmata, Elaphoglossum L’Herminierii (the

Ferns and Fern Culture. 89

Silver Eel Fern), Gymnogramma calomelanos (Silver
Fern), G. Laucheana (Gold Fern), G. Muellerii, G.
Parsonsii, a dwarf, crested gold fern; G. Pearceii
D, Fijiensis plumosa, a handsome variety, of large
growth; D. fceniculacea, D. polyantha, D. pycnocarpa,
robusta, very beautiful, finely-cut fronds; G. Wetten-
halliana (Crested Sulphur Fern), Hymenodium crinitum
(Elephant Ear Fern), Leucostegia affinis, Lygodictyon
Forsterii (Climbing Fern), L. volubile (Climbing Fern),

NIPHOPSIS ANGUSTATUS,

Nephrolepis Bauseii, Niphopsis angustatus, Phlebodium
sporodocarpum, Pleopeltis fossa, P. Xiphias.

TWENTY-FIVE BASKET FERNS FOR STOVE.

Adiantum amabile, sends its roots through the basket
all round, young plants are produced on them, and their
foliage soon forms a beautiful mass of green. A.
caudatum, A. dolabriforme, A. Farleyense, A. frag-
rantissimum, A. Peruvianum, Asplenium longissimum,

90 Ferns and Fern Culture.

produces long pendent fronds, bearing a young plant at
the tip of each; Davallia ‘dissecta, D. dissecta elegans,
D. elegans, D. Fijiensis, D. Fijiensis plumosa, D. Grif-
fithiana, D. pentaphylla. Goniophlebium chnoodes, G,
subauriculatum, one of the best Basket Ferns in culti-
vation, produces pendent fronds 6ft. to 10ft. long; G.
verrucosum, Gymnogramma chrysophylla, a Gold Fern,
which shows its beautiful yellow powder to advantage
when suspended; G. Dobroydense (Gold Fern), G.
schizophylla gloriosa, a very beautiful variety with
drooping fronds, exquisitely cut; Nephrolepis daval-
lioides, N. d. furcans, a splendid variety, with crested
fronds; N. exaltata, N. pectinata, Phegopteris effusus.

TWENTY-FIVE CHOICE VARIETIES FOR PLANTING ON
BLocks oF CoRK FOR SUSPENDING.

Adiantum ciliatum, produces young plants at the tips
of its fronds; these develop, and produce others at their ~
tips, forming a graceful and pretty object; A. dolabri-
forme is like the preceding in habit, but its foliage is of
deeper green. Asplenium nobilis, Davallia decora, D.
dissecta, D. dissecta elegans, D. elegans, D. Fijiensis, D..
F. major, D. F. plumosa, D. Griffithiana, D. heterophylla,
D. pentaphylla, D. pycnocarpa, D. Tyermannii, Lopho-
lepis piloselloides, Nephrolepis cordata compacta, N.
pectinata, N. Philippinensis Oleandra nodosa, Phyma-
todes vulgaris cristata, Phlebodium venosum, Platycerium
grande, P. Stemmaria, P. Willinckii. The Platyceriums
should be suspended by one wire, the others by one or four
wires, according to whether they are to hang against the
wall or from the_roof.

Firry Stove FERNS FOR RocKWORK.

Acrostichum osmundaceum, Adiantum Bauseii, A.
cardiochleena, A. cultratum, A. Funckii, A. Lathomii,
A. trapeziforme, Aglaomorpha Meyeniana, Aspidium
dilaceratum, A. Plumierii, Asplenium Australasicum, A.
Belangerii, A. horridum, A. inzequale, A. laxum pumilum,
Campyloneurum phyllitidis, Davallia decora, D. dissecta,
D. dissecta elegans, D. elegans, D. elegans polydactyla,
D. Fijiensis, D. F. major, D. F. plumosa, D. ornata, D,

Ferns and Fern Culture. 91

polyantha, D. retusa, Drynaria coronans, D. musefolia,
Goniophlebium neriifolium, Hypoderis Brownii, Lonchitis
pubescens, Marattia elegans, Meniscium oligophyllum,
Microsorum irioides, Nephrolepis davallioides, N. d.
furcans, N. ensifolia, N. exaltata, N. Zollingeriana,
Oleandra articulata, Olfersia cervina, Phegopteris
effusus, Phlebodium aureum, P. sporodocarpum, Phyma-
todes nigrescens, Pleocnemia Leuzeana, Pleopeltis
Xiphias, Polypodium leiorhizon, Stenochlzena scandens.

TWENTY-FIVE STOVE FERNS FOR WALLS.

Adiantum emulum, A. amabile, A. capillus veneris, A.
caudatum, A. cuneatum, A. dolabriforme, A. fragrantis-
simum, A. Peruvianum, A. tenerum, Asplenium alatum,
A. planicaule, Davallia decora, D. dissecta, D, d. elegans,
D. elegans, D. Fijiensis, D. F. major, D. pentaphylla,
Goniophlebium appendiculatum, G. glaucophyllum,
Leucostegia hirsuta, Nephrolepis cordata compacta, N.
pectinata, Polypodium Catherine, Stenochlena scandens.

TWELVE STOVE FERNS FoR CUTTING.

Adiantum ewmulum, A. amabile, A. Farleyense, A.
fragrantissimum, A. Lathomii, A. Neo Guinense, A.
scutum, Davallia dissecta, D. d. elegans, D. Fijiensis, D.
Griffithiana, D. Tyermannii.

é
TWELVE STOVE SELAGINELLAS.

Selaginella amcena, very pretty, light, and graceful ;
S. atrovirides, distinct, bronzy brown in colour; S. cesia,
beautiful trailing species of deep metallic blue; S. Emi-
liana, a ‘‘ Bird’s Nest” moss, very pretty; S. filicina,
has large plumose fronds; 8S. gracilis, very pretty and
graceful; S. grandis, exceedingly handsome, has large
fan-shaped, spreading, bright green foliage; S. hema-
todes, light green, glossy, crimpy fronds; S. inzqualifolia,
S. Lyallii, has light green crisp foliage; S. tassellata,
very pretty and distinct; S, Willdenovii, commonly
known as S. cesia arborea and 8S. levigata, a most
beautiful species, of climbing habit, producing large
pinne of a lovely metallic blue shade, the colour being
most intense when fhe plant is growing in the shade,
when its iridescence is very striking.

Firry WarM GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR Pots.

| DIANTUM capillus veneris, A. c.v. grande, A,
im) c.v. O’Brienianum, A. ciliatum, A. colpodes
elegans, A. cuneatum, A. c. grandiceps, A.
decorum, A. gracillimum, A. Luddimannianum:
A. Pacottii, A. palmatum, A. tinctum, young foliage

ADIANTUM DECORUM.

beautifully tinted; A. Williamsii, a very handsome
variety, with pea-green foliage, the stems slightly
powdered; Asplenium bulbiferum, A. Colensoii, A.
foeniculaceum, Cheilanthes elegans, OC. hirta, Davallia

Ferns and Fern Culture. 93

bullata (the Squirrel’s Foot Fern), D. Canariensis (the
Hare’s Foot Fern), D. hemiptera, D. Mooreana, a hand-
some large-growing species; D. tenuifolia Veitchiana, a
most beautiful variety, with gracefully drooping finely-
cut fronds; Doodia aspera multifida, Gymnogramma
ochracea (a Gold Fern), Lastrea Richardsii multifida
Leucostegia immersa, Lomaria fluviatilis, L. L’Her-

CHEILANTHES ELEGANS.

minierii (a miniature Tree-Fern), young fronds a deep
rose colour; Lygodium Japonicum, a climbing Fern of
very free growth; L. palmatum, a climbing Fern of small
growth but very pretty; Microlepia hirta cristata, a
most handsome variety, produces large fronds, light
green in colour, heavily crested ; Onychium Japonicum,
Osmunda Japonica corymbifera, a pretty, dwarf, crested,

94 Ferns and Fern Culture.

Royal Fern ; Platycerium alcicorne, a Stag’s Horn Fern ;
Polypodium hastatum, Polystichum viviparum, Pteris
argyrea, prettily variegated ; P. cretica, P. c. nobilis, a
handsome, densely-crested variety; P. Mayii, very
pretty, dwarf, variegated crested; P. semipinnata,
P. serrulata densa, heavily crested, graceful and pretty ;
P, s. fastigiata, P. tremula. P. t. Smithiana, fronds
branched and heavily-crested, very distinct ; P. umbrosa,

ASPLENIUM ZEYLANICUM.

P. Victoriz, a pretty, light, variegated variety ; Sadleria
cyatheoides, a very handsome species, with large, grace-
fully-arching fronds, coriaceous in texture, dark green.

A SECOND Firry WARM GREENHOUSE FERNS
FOR Ports.

Adiantum cuneatum elegans, A. Lawsonianum, fronds
finely cut; A. excisum multifidum, a heavily-crested
variety ; A. hispidulum (pubescens), A. Mariesii, a hand-
some variety, very distinct; A. pedatum, a beautiful

Ferns and Fern Culture. 95

variety of free growth; A. reniforme, A. Veitchii, A.
venustum, Alsophila Rebeccze, Asplenium bifolium, A.
caudatum, A. flaccidum, has drooping fronds, very
graceful; A. lucidum, a handsome variety, with bright
green glossy foliage; A. preemorsum laceratum, Balan-
tium culcita, Blechnum platyptera, a small Tree-Fern, of
very fine appearance; Brainea insignis, Cheilanthes
tomentosa, Cibotium Barometz, a large growing species,
of handsome appearance; Davallia Canariensis pulchella,
D. Mariesii, a beautiful variety, with finely-cut fronds;
D. tenuifolia, D. Tyermannii, Dictyogramma Japonica
variegata, Diplazium Shepherdii, D. Thwaitesii, Doodia
caudata, D. media crispa cristata, Hypolepis Bergiana,
Lastreaaristata variegata, L. fragrans, the (Violet-scented
Fern), a pretty dwarf species ; Leucostegia cherophylla,
Lomaria ciliata, a miniature Tree-Fern; L. gibba, a hand-
some small Tree-Fern; Lygodium scandens, a very pretty
Climbing Fern, evergreen, has light green foliage and is
of free growth ; Nephrodium molle corymbiferum, Nipho-
bolus Lingua corymbifera, a distinct, dwarf, heavily-
crested variety, foliage very leathery; Nothoclcena
Newberryii, distinct and beautiful, foliage covered with
silvery-white hairs; N. sinuata, very pretty, long, narrow
drooping fronds, silvery underneath ; Osmunda palustris,
a pretty, evergreen Royal Fern ;-Pellea ternifolia, fronds
narrow, very glaucous; Polystichum vestitum venustum,
Pteris cretica alba lineata, prettily variegated; P. c.
magnifica, heavily crested ; P. serrulata cristata, P. s.c.
plumosa, has dense drooping foliage; P. s. major, a
large variety of the Ribbon Fern; P. s. major cristata,
a large variety, crested ; P. tremula crispa.

TWELVE BASKET FERNS FOR WARM
GREENHOUSE.

Adiantum assimile, a beautiful variety, its under-
ground rhizomes spread through the basket and produce
on all sides a mass of lovely pale-green foliage. A.
cuneatum grandiceps, a crested variety of the common
Maidenhair, distinct and handsome; A. gracillimum,
foliage exceedingly fine, and, when young, has a lovely
tint; A. palmatum, a very beautiful variety, with

96. Ferns and Fern Culture.

gracefully-drooping fronds; A. Williamsii, Asplenium
flaccidum, fronds drooping and graceful; A. long-
issimum, produces pendent fronds six feet long, and
makes a handsome specimen; Blechnum glandulosum,
Davallia dissecta elegans, D. Mooreana, has large fronds
of fine appearance; D. tenuifolia Veitchiana, a lovely
variety, with graceful light foliage; Microlepia hirta
cristata, has large, pale-green, heavily-crested fronds.

TWELVE WARM GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR BLOCKS OF
CoRK SUSPENDED.

Adiantum assimile cristatum, A. ciliatum, A. emulum,
A. fragrantissimum, A, setulosum, Davallia Tyermannii,
Nephrolepis pectinata, Oleandra nodosa, Pellza terni-
folia, Platycerium Willinckii, Pteris serrulata Hender-
sonii, P. s. plumosa.

Firry WARM GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR ROCKWORK.

Adiantum decorum, A. formosum, A. Mariesii, A.
pedatum, Asplenium fceniculaceum, A. premorsum,
A. p. laceratum, Blechnum Atherstonii, B. polypodiodes,
Cibotium Barometz, Davallia Canariensis, D. Mooreana,
D. tenuifolia, D. t. stricta, Dennstzdtia davallioides,
Diplazium dilatatum, Drynaria pustulata, Hypolepis
repens, Lastrea dissecta, L. frondosa, L. patens superba,
L. Richardsii multitida, Lepicystis sepulta, L. squamata,
Leucostegia immersa, Litobrochia vespertilionis, Lomaria
gibba, Microlepia hirta cristata, M. platyphilla, a large
handsome species; M. strigosa, Nephrodium molle,
Niphobolus lingua, Onychium Japonicum, Osmunda
Japonica corymbifera, O. palustris, Phegopteris trichodes,
Polypodium Billardierii, Polystichum Capense, Pteris
argyrea, P. cretica, P. c. cristata,.P. longifolia, P. longi-
folia nobilis, P. scaberula, P. serrulata, P. s. major, P. s.
major cristata, P. tremula, P. umbrosa, Todea Africana.

TWENTY-FIVE WARM GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR WALLS.

Adiantum assimile, A. ciliatum, A. colpodes, A. cunea-
tum, A. c. grandiceps, A gracillimum, A. pentaphyllum,
A. pubescens, A. setulosum, Asplenium Colensoii, A.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 97

flaccidum, Blechnum glandulosum, Davallia, emiptera,
D. Mooreana, D. Tyermannii, Osmunda palustris, Pellawsa
ternifolia, Platyceriumalcicorne, Poly podium Billardierii,
Polystichum mucronatum, Pteris semipinnata, Selagin-
ella caulescens argentea, S. Martensii, S. pubescens,
S. stolonifera.

TWENTY-FIVE WARM GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR
CUTTING.

Adiantum capillus veneris, A. colpodes elegans, A.
cuneatum, A, cuneatum elegans, A decorum, A. gracilli-
mum, A. Mariesii, A. pedatum, A, Williamsii, Davallia
bullata, D. decora, D. dissecta, D, d. elegans, D. Mariesii,
D. Tyermannii, Leucostegia immersa, Nephrodium
molle, Onychium Japonicum, Osmunda palustris, Pteris
cretica,; P. c. cristata, P. serrulata, P. s. cristata, P.
tremula, Selaginella pubescens.

TWELVE SELAGINELLAS FOR WARM GREENHOUSE.

Selaginella caulescens argentea, S. delicatissima, S.
densa, S. divaricata, S. involvens, S. Japonica, S. Kraus-
siana, S. K. aurea, S. K. variegata, S. Martensii, S. pube-
scens, S. variabilis,

Firry CooL GREENHOUSE FERNS FoR Pots.

SaIDIANTUM Aithiopicum, A. affine, A. capillus
veneris, A. colpodes elegans, A. decorum, A,
formosum, A. Mariesii, A. pedatum, A,
Williamsii, Alsophila excelsa, Asplenium bulbi-
ferum, A. Hemionitis, A. lucidum, A. preemorsum lacera-

ADIANTOM PEDATUM,

Ferns and Fern Culture. 99

tum, Athyrium laxum, Cheilanthes Clevelandii, O.
gracillima, Cyrtomium caryotidium, C. falcatum,
Davallia bullata, D. Mariesii, Dicksonia antarctica, D.
squarrosa, Doodia aspera, D. a. multifida, Gleichenia
dicarpa, G. flabellata, G. Speluncie, Gymnogramma
triangularis, Lastreaerythrosora, L. fragrans, Leucostegia
immersa, Lomaria attenuata, Lomaria falcata bipinnati-
fida, L. fluviatilis, Lygodium Japonica, Microlepia
platyphylla, Nephrodium molle, N. molle corymbiferum,
Nothocloeena lanuginosa, N. Newberryi, Onychium

SEF

GLEICHENIA SEMIVESTITA.

Japonicum, Osmunda Japonica corymbifera, Platyloma
cordata, Polystichum concavum, P. vestitum venustum,
Pteris cretica, P. scaberula, Woodwardia radicans, W.
radicans crispa.

A SEconp Firry CooL GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR Pots.

Adiantum capillus veneris grande, A. Chilense, A.
digitatum, A. reniforme, A. venustum, Aleuritopteris
Mexicana, Anemidictyon phyllitides, Asplenium bifolium,
A. Hemionitis cristatum, A. monanthemum, Blechnum

100 Ferns and Fern Culture.

Atherstonii, Cheilanthes fragrans, Davallia Mariesii
cristata, D. Nove Zealandixw, Dictyogramma Japonica,
D. J. variegata, Gleichenia dicarpa longipinnata, G.
semivestita, Hypolepis distans, Lastrea glabella, L. opaca,
Lomaria Banksii, L. discolor, L. pumila, Lomariopsis
heteromorpha, Lygodium palmatum, Microlepia strigosa,
Mohria thurifraga, Nephrodium Sangwellii, Niphobolus
lingua, Nothocleena cretacea, N. Marantz, N. sinuata,
Osmunda palustris, Pellzea andromedefolia, P. ornithopus
Polypodium hastatum, P. incanum, P. Scoulerii, Poly-
stichum Tsus-Simense, Pteris cretica, cristata, P. longi-
folia, P. serrulata cristata, P. . major, P. s. major
cristata, P. tremula, Todea Africana, Woodsia mollis,
Woodwardia radicans Burgessiana, W. r. cristata.

TWELVE BASKET FERNS FOR CoOL GREENHOUSE.

Adiantum ethiopicum, <A. assimile, A. decorum,
Blechum polypodioides, Leucostegia immersa, Osmunda
palustris, Platycerium alcicorne, Pteris cretica, P. c.
cristata, P. scaberula, Woodwardia radicans, W. r.
cristata.

TWELVE FERNS FOR CORK BLOCKS IN COOL
GREENHOUSE.

Adiantum capillus veneris, A. colpodes elegans, Chei-
lanthes elegans, Davallia bullata, D. Mariesii, D. m.
cristata, Hypolepis distans, Pella ternifolia, Poly-
stichum triangulum laxum, Pteris cretica magnifica,
P. serrulata, P. s. cristata.

TWENTY-FIVE CooL GREENHOUSE FERNS
FOR WALLS.

Adiantum ezxthiopicum, A. capillus veneris, A. c.v.
grande, A. colpodes elegans, A. decorum, A. Mariesii,
A. venustum, A. Williamsii, Blechnum polypodioides,
Cyrtomium caryotidium, C. faleatum, Davallia bullata,
D. Mariesii, Diplazium Thwaitesii, Drynaria pustulata,
Niphobolus Lingua, Onychium Japonicum, Polystichum
acrostichoides, P. triangulum laxum, Pteris cretica,
P. c. cristata, P. scaberula, P. serrulata, P.s. cristata,
Selaginella Martensii.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 101

TWELVE CooL GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR
CUTTING.

Adiantum capillus veneris, A. decorum, A. Mariesii,
A. Pacottii, A. pedatum, Davallia bullata, D. Mariesii,
Onychium Japonicum, Pteris cretica, P. c. cristata, P.
serrulata, P. s. cristata.

TWELVE CooL GREENHOUSE SELAGINELLAS.

Selaginélla Brownii, S. denticulata, S. Douglassii, S.
involvens, S. Japonica, S. Kraussiana, S. K. aurea, S. K.
variegata, S. Martensii, S. Oregana, 8. Poulter‘i, S.
pubescens.

Firty CoLD GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR POTS.

7) DIANTUM affine, A. capillus veneris, A. c. v.
“N| daphnites, A. emarginatum, A. pedatum,
Aspidium cristatum Floridanum, Asplenium
angustifolium, A. fissum, A. fontanum,
Athyrium goringianum pictum, Botrychium Virginicum,
Camptosorus rhizophyllus, Cyrtomium falcatum, C.
Fortuneii, Cystopteris bulbifera, Davallia Mariesii,
Dennstedtia punctilobula, Dicksonia antarctica, Dictyo-

ADIANTUM PEDATUM.

gramma Japonica, Gymnogramma triangularis, Lastrea -
atrata, L. decurrens, L. fragrans, L. opaca, L. prolifica, L.
Sieboldii, Lomaria Chilensis, L. crenulata, L. pumila,
Lygodium Japonicum, L. palmatum, Niphobolus lingua,
Onoclea_ sensibilis, Onychium Japonicum, Osmunda
Japonica corymbifera, O. palustris, Pellea atropurpurea,
Polystichum acrostichoides, P. concavum, P. proliferum,
P. setosum, P. triangulum laxum, P. vestitum venustum,

Ferns and Fern Culture. 103

Pteris scaberula, Struthiopteris Germanica, Todea
Africaria, Woodsia ilvensis, W. obtusa, Woodwardia
radicans, W. r. cristata.

ASPLENIUM FONTANUM.

A SECOND FiIFrTy COLD GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR Ports.

Adiantum c. v. grande, Aspidium juglandifolium, A,
pilosum, Asplenium adulterinum, A. ebeneum, A. Seelosii,

STRUTHIOPTERIS GERMANICA,

Cyrtomium caryotidium, Davallia bullata, D. Mariesii
cristata, D. Nove Zealandiz, Dicksonia squarrosa, Dicty-
ogramma Japonica variegata, Lastrea frondosa, Lomaria

104 Ferns and Fern Culture.

alpina, Platyloma falcata, P. rotundifolia, Struthiopteris
Pennsylvanica recurva, Woodsia polystichoides Veitchii,
Woodwardia Japonica, W. radicans crispa, Allosorus

LoMaRia ALPINA.

acrostichoides, Aspidium Nevadense, A. rigidum argu-
tum, Lastrea Goldiana, Osmunda cinnamomea, O. Clay-
toniana, O. gracilis, Polystichum munitum,

th Al 4 =

Potyropium VULGARE TRICHOMANOIDES,

The following are British : Asplenium lanceolatum, A.
marinum, A. septentrionale, A. trichomanes confluens,

Ferns and Fern Culture. 105

A. t. incisum, Athyrium F.f. corymbiferum, A. F-f.
Edwardsii, A. F.f. Frizelle, A. F.f. Kalothrix, A.. F.f.
plumosum elegans, A. F.f. Victoriz, Blechnum spicant
cristatum, Lastrea pseudo-mas cristata fimbriata, Poly-
podium v. Cambricum, P. v. trichomanoides, Polysti-
chum angulare Bayliz, Scolopendrium vulgare crispum,
S. v.c. fimbriatum, S. v. cristulatum, S. v. laceratum,
S. v. grandiceps, S. v. ramo-marginatum,

TWELVE BAsKET FERNS FOR COLD GREENHOUSE.

Adiantum pedatum, Athyrium F.f. corymbiferum, A.
F.f. Victoriz, Osmunda palustris, Polystichum angulare,
P. a. divisilobum acutum, P. a. d. decorum, P. a. prolif-
erum, P. a. venustum, Woodwardia radicans, W. r.
Burgessiana, W. r. cristata.

ScOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE CRISPUM.

TWENTY-FIVE CoLD GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR WALLS.

Adiantum capillus veneris, A. pedatum, Asplenium
nigrum, A. marinum, Lastrea zemula, L. prolifica, L.
Sieboldii, Polypodium falcatum, P. vulgare, P. v. Cam-
bricum, P. v. elegantissimum, P. v. trichomanoides,
Polystichum acrostichoides, P. aculeatum, P. angulare,
P. a, Baylis, P. a. divisilobum, P. a. proliferum, P.
munitum, P. setosum, Scolopendrium vulgare, S. v.
crispum, Selaginella Oregana, Woodwardia radicans,
W.¥+r. cristata.

106 Ferns and Fern Culture.
HALrF-A-DozEN COLD GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR CUTTING.

Adiantum capillus veneris, A, pedatum, Asplenium
adiantum nigrum, Onychium Japonicum, Polystichum
angulare, P. a. Bayliz.

HAtr-A-DoZEN SELAGINELLAS FOR COLD GREENHOUSE,

Selaginella denticulata, S. Japonica, S. Kraussiana,
S. K. aurea, S. K. variegata, S. Oregana,

SS
8 US
Waly Lo rh

ToDEA PELLUCIDA.

TWENTY-FIVE FinMy Ferns FoR Coot GREENHOUSE.

In order to have Filmy Ferns in the greatest perfection,
they should be in a very close, damp atmosphere ;
therefore, unless the house is such as to provide this,
they should be enclosed in a frame, or placed under glass
shades. Hymenophyllum eruginosum, a beautiful
variety, having a soft, downy appearance; H. caudi-
culatum, has long tapering fronds, very pretty; H.

oe

Ferns and Fern Culture. 107

Chiloense, dwarf in habit, small fronds; H. crispatum,
fronds six inches long, erect, light green, crispy in
appearance ; H. demissum, light, graceful fronds, nine
inches in length; H. d. nitens, smaller than the pre-
ceding, compact, and very pretty; H. flexuosum, a
beautiful variety, fronds six to nine inches long, crimpy ;
Todea Fraserii, very handsome, large, light green
arching fronds; T. grandipinnula, a splendid variety,
with massive foliage, very pellucid; T. pellucida, a free-

TODEA SUPERBA.

growing species, produces fronds two feet long; T.
superba, a most beautiful species, the fronds thick,
mossy, cut into fine segments; T. Wilkesiana, a hand-
some species, which forms a thin stem and becomes a
Tree-Fern; Trichomanes Alabamensis, a dwarf and
pretty species; T. angustatum, fronds four inches long,
cut into fine hair-like segments; T. auriculatum, a

108 Ferns and Fern Culture.

beautiful species, with drooping fronds six inches long,
deeply lobed; T. Luschnathianum, resembles the pre-
ceding, but is more cut; T. maximum, produces large
handsome fronds; T. radicans (the ‘“ Killarney Fern”),
has triangular fronds, several times divided, very
beautiful; T. r, Andrewsii, T. r. crispum, T. r. dilatatum,
T. r. dissectum, four varieties of the ‘Killarney Fern,”
with various distinct characteristics ; T. reniforme (the
New Zealand Kidney Fern), a beautiful species, with
kidney-shaped fronds; T. trichoidium, a lovely species,
fronds four inches long, cut into hair-like segments;
T. venosum, a dwarf and pretty species.

HALF-A-DOZEN FILMY FERNS FOR COLD GREENHOUSE.

Hymenophyllum demissum, H. d. nitens, H. Tunbrid-
gense, H. Wilsonii, Todea pellucida, and Todea superba.
Although these will bear a few degrees of frost, it is
advisable to protect them, so as to keep the frost from
them.

TWELVE STOVE FERNS FOR EXHIBITION.

Wwe LIANTUM cardiochlena, A. Farleyense, A.
trapeziforme, Asplenium Australasicum, A.
longissimum, Davallia Fijiensis plumosa,
Goniophlebium subauriculatum, Gymnogram-
ma chrysophylla, G. Peruviana argyrophylla, Nephro-
lepis davallioides furcans, N. rufescens tripinnatifida,
Platycerium grande.

A SECOND TWELVE STOVE FERNS FOR EXHIBITION.

Adiantum Flemingii, A. fragrantissimum, A. Latho-
mii, Aglaomorpha Meyeniana, Asplenium laxum pumi-
lum, Davallia Fijiensis, Gymnogramma schizophylla
gloriosa, Nephrolepis davallioides, Phlebodium aureum,
Phegopteris effusus, Platycerium Stemmaria, Stenoch-
lcena scandens.

TWELVE GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR EXHIBITION,

Adiantum cuneatum, A. gracillimum, A. Williamsii,
Davallia Mooreana, D. tenuifolia Veitchiana, D. Tyer-
mannii, Gleichenia flabellata, G. rupestris, G. Speluncie,
Lomaria gibba, Microlepia hirta cristata, Woodwardia
radicans.

A SECOND TWELVE GREENHOUSE FERNS FOR
EXHIBITION,

Adiantum cuneatum grandiceps, A. decorum, A. peda-
tum, A. Veitchii, Blechnum platyptera, Brainea insignis,
Davallia bullata, Gleichenia dicarpa longipinnata, G.
Mendellii, G. semivestita, Pteris scaberula, Woodwardia
radicans cristata.

110 Ferns and Fern Culture.
TWELVE Harpy Exotic FERNS FOR EXHIBITION.

Adiantum pedatum, Cyrtomium faleatum Fensomii,
Lomaria Chilensis, Onoclea sensibilis, Osmunda cinna-
momea, O. Claytoniana, O. gracilis, Polystichum Braunii,
P, proliferum, P. munitum, Struthiopteris Germanica,
S. orientalis,

TWELVE DwaRF BRITISH FERNS FOR EXHIBITION.

Adiantum capillus veneris grande, Asplenium Ger-
manicum, A. lanceolatum microdon, A. septentrionale,
A. trichomanes confluens, A. t. cristatum, A. t. incisum,

ASPLENIUM TRICHOMANES CRISTATUM,

Athyrium Filix foemina Edwardsii, Blechnum spicant
cristatum, B. s. plumosum (serratum, Airey’s No. 1),
B.s. trinervo coronans, Polypodium vulgare trichoma-
noides.

A SEconp TWELVE DwarRFr BRITISH FERNS FOR
EXHIBITION,

Asplenium marinum plumosum, Athyrium F. f.
crispum, A. F.f. Vernonia. cristatum, Blechnum s.
Maunderii, Lastrea montana congesta, Polypodium v.
Cornubiense Fowlerii, P. v. elegantissimum, P. v. crista-

Ferns and Fern Culture, 111

tum, Polystichum lonchitis, Scolopendrium vulgare
Coolingii, S. v. cristulatum, S. v. ramo-marginatum.

A THIRD TWELVE Dwarr BRITISH FERNS FOR
EXHIBITION,

Adiantum capillus veneris, Asplenium marinum,
Blechnum s. linearé, Ceterach o. crenatum, Cystopteris
regia (alpina), C. montana, Polypodium v. pulcherrimum,
P. v. grandiceps, Lastrea montana ramo-coronans, L.
pseudo-mas ramulosissima, Scolopendrium vulgare con-
glomeratum, S. v. cristatum.

TWELVE BRITISH FERNS FOR EXHIBITION (NOT DWARF).

Athyrium F.f. acrocladon, A. F.f. Kalothrix, A. F.f.
plumosum, A. F.f. p. elegans, A. F.f. Victoriz, Lastrea
F.m. fluctuosa, L. F.m. grandiceps, Lastrea pseudo-mas
cristata fimbriata, L. p.m. ramosissima, Osmunda regalis
cristata, Polystichum angulare plumosum, Scolopendrium
v. crispum fimbriatum.

A SECOND TWELVE BRITISH FERNS FOR EXHIBITION
(NOT DWARF),

Athyrium F.f, corymbiferum, A. F.f. Craigii, A. F.f.
Fielde, A. F.f. setigerum, A. F.f. todeoides, Lastrea F.m.
Bollandize, L. pseudo-mas cristata, L. p.m. cristata
angustata, Polypodium v. Cambricum, Scolopendrium
v. crispum, S. v. grandiceps, S. v. ramo-cristatum majus.

A THIRD TWELVE BRITISH FERNS FOR EXHIBITION.

Athyrium F.f. Frizelle, A. F.f. glomeratum, A. Ff.
Grante, A. F.f. Pritchardii, A. F.f. ramo-cristatum,
Osmunda regalis, Polystichum angulare cristato-gracile,
P. a. cristatum, P. a. divisilobum decorum, P. a.
grandiceps, P. a. proliferum, Scolopendrium v. crispum
Stabler.

FERNS SUITABLE FOR CULTIVATION IN DWELLING-
Hovusss.

Sl weal SELENIUM bifolium, A. bulbiferum, A. Colensoii,
A. foeniculaceum, Davallia Canariensis, Cyrto-
mium falcatum, Lastrea p.m. cristata, Nephro-
dium molle, Nephrolepis exaltata, Platycerium
alcicorne, Polystichum setosum, Pteris cretica, P. c.
magnifica, P. c. nobilis, P. serrulata, P.s. cristata, P. s.
major, P. s. major cristata, P. Ouvrardii, P. tremula,
Polystichum ang. Baylis, P. a. proliferum densum, P,
mounitum, Scolopendrium v. crispum, S. v. laceratum.
S. v. grandiceps.

Where there is no gas the following may be cultivated :
Adiantum cuneatum, A. decorum, A. gracillimum, A.
Williamsii.

FERNS SUITABLE FOR FERN STANDS.

As the stands are usually small, it is a good plan to
have one nice sized Fern in the centre, and either a carpet
of Selaginella or a few Dwarf Ferns planted round it.
The following are all small-growing kinds. Those with
(c) affixed are suitable for planting in the centre.

Adiantum capillus veneris (c), A. c. v. grande (c),
A. c. v. O’Brienianum (c), A. hispidulum tenellum, A.
reniforme, A. setulosum, Asplenium inzequale (c), A.
obtusilobum, A. Fernandezianum, A. fontanum, A. mon-
anthemum (c), A. preemossum laceratum (c), A. resectum,
A. ruteefolium (c), A. tenellum, Anapeltis nitida, Davallia
alpina, Doodia caudata, Lomaria alpina, Pteris inter-
nata, P. serrulata cristata, Selaginella amcena, S.
Brownii, 8. divaricata, S. Emiliana, S. Japonica, S.
Kraussiana, S. K. aurea (golden), S. K. variegata (silvery),
S. Martensii.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 118

British varieties: Asplenium marinum, A. nigrum, A.
trichomanes, Polystichum angulare Bayliz (c), Scolopen-
drium v. Coolingii, S. v. cristulatum (c), S. v. densum.

Filmy Ferns: Hymenophyllum demissum (c), H. d.
nitens, H. Tunbridgense, H. Wilsonii, Trichomanes
Alabamensis, T. angustatum, T. radicans (c), T. reni-
forme (c), T. venosum. ;

FERNS SUITABLE FOR WARDIAN OR FERN CASES.

All those named as suitable for Fern stands, also,
Adiantum. affine, A. Mariesii, Arthropteris obliterata,
Asplenium attenuatum, A. alatum, A. fragrans, A.
Hemionitis, A. Colensoii, A. Zeylanicum, Blechnum
gracile, Davallia bullata, D. Canariensis, D. C. pulchella,
D. hemiptera, D. Nove Zealandie, D. pentaphylla,
Doodia amcena, D. media crispa cristata, Drynaria
pustulata, Niphobolus Lingua, Onychium Japonicum,
Phlebodium venosum, Polypodium adnascens, P. Billar-
dierii, P. Scoulerii, Polystichum setosum, Pteris cretica
and its varieties, P. internata, P. serrulata and its
varieties, Rhipidopteris peltata, Selaginella caulescens,
S. gracilis, S. grandis, S. umbrosa, ‘S. Victoriz, S.
pubescens.

British varieties: Lastrea F.m. cristata, Polypodium v.
Cambricum, P. v. elegantissimum, Polystichum angulare
cristatum, P. a. grandiceps, P, a. perserratum, Scolopen-
drium v. crispum, S. v. cristatum, S. laceratum, S. v.
grandiceps, S. v. ramo-cristatum, S. v. ramo-marginatum.

Filmy Ferns: Those recommended for Fern stands
also, Hymenophyllum ewruginosum, H. caudiculatum, H.
Chiloense, H. flexuosum, H. pectinatum, Todea grandi-
pinnula, T. pellucida, T. superba, Trichomanes auricu-
latum, T. exsectum, T. humile, T. maximum, T. m.
umbrosum, T. radicans and its varieties, T. rigidum, 4M
trichoidium.

Ferns SUITABLE FOR WINDOW CASES.

Adiantum capillus veneris, A. pedatum, Asplenium
ebeneum, A. fontanum, A. nigrum, A. trichomanes,
Athyrium, F.f. Edwardsii, A. F.f. Vernoniz cristatum,

AH

114 Ferns and Fern Culture.

A. F.f. Victorie, A. goringianum pictum, Blechnum s,
cristatum, B.s. trinervo coronans, Cyrtomium caryoti-
dium, C. falcatum, C. Fortuneii, Cystopteris bulbifera,
Dictyogramma Japonica variegata, Lastrea atrata, L.
decurrens, L. fragrans, L. opaca, L. prolifica, L. Sieboldii,
L, p. m. cristata, L. p. m. crispa cristata, Lomaria alpina,
Lygodium Japonicum, Niphobolus Lingua, Onoclea
sensibilis, Onychium Japonicum, Polypodium vulgare
Cambricum, P. v. cornubiense Fowlerii, P. v. elegantis-
simum, P. v. grandiceps, Polystichum acrostichoides, P.
Braunii, P. munitum, P. setosum, P. angulare Baylie, P.
a. cristatum, P. a. gracile, P. a. grandiceps, Pteris cretica,
P. longifolia, Scolopendrium v. capitatum, S. v. crispum,
S. v. cristatum, S. v. laceratum, S. v. grandiceps, S. v.
ramo-marginatum, Todea Africana.

The Ferns here named are hardy enough to bear a few
degrees of frost without injury, but means should be
taken to keep the frost from them, so as to preserve their
foliage as perfect as possible.

FERNS FOR WINDOW BOXES.

Twelve dwarf: Allosorus crispus, Asplenium nigrum,
A. trichomanes, A. viride, Blechnum spicart, Ceterach
officinarum, Cystopteris fragilis, Polypodium calcareum,
P. dryopteris, P. phegopteris, P. vulgare, Polystichum
onchitis.

PoOLYPODIUM VULGARE,

Ferns and Fern Culture. 115

Twelve medium size: Aspidium rigidum argutum,
Lastrea zemula, L. intermedia, L. marginale, L. rigida,
L. spinulosa, Polystichum acrostichoides, P. Braunii,
Scolopendrium vulgare, S. v. crispum, S. v. grandiceps,
Woodwardia angustifolia,

Twelve large size: Athyrium Filix foemina, A. F.f.
corymbiferum, A. F.f. Fieldiz, Lastrea dilatata, L.
Filixmas, L. F.m. fluctuosa, L. p.m. cristata, L. montana,
Osmunda gracilis, Polystichum aculeatum, P. angulare,
P. munitum.

TREE-FERNS FOR GREENHOUSE.

Large-growing species: Alsophila Australis, A. excelsa,
A. Rebecca, Cibotium regale, C. Schiedii, C. spectabile,
Cyathea dealbata (the New Zealand -Silver Tree-Fern),
C. medularis, C. princeps, Dicksonia antarctica, D. fibrosa,
D. squarrosa.

Smaller-growing species: Blechnum Braziliense, B.
Corcovadense, B. platyptera, Lomaria attenuata, L.
ciliata, L. discolor, L. falcata, L.f. bipinnatifida, L. gibba,
L. g. tincta, L. L’Herminierii (very dwarf), Sadleria
cyatheoides.

HARDY FERNS FOR OUTDOOR FERNERIES.

Dwarf species and varieties growing from four inches
to one foot in height

Norta AMERICAN.—Allosorus acrostichoides, Aspi-
dium Nevadense, Asplenium ebeneum, Cystopteri
bulhifera, Lomaria alpina, Phegopteris hexagonoptera,
Woodsia ilvensis, W. obtusa, Woodwardia angustifolia.

BririsH.—Allosorus crispus (Parsley Fern), Asplenium
adiantum nigrum (the Black Majidenhair Spleen-
wort), A. ruta-muraria (the Rue-leafed Spleenwort),
A. trichomanes (the Black-stemmed Spleenwort), A.
viride (the Green-stemmed Spleenwort), Athyrium
££. crispum, A. F.f. Edwardsii, A. F.f. Findlayanum,
A. F.f. Frizelle, A. F.f. minimum, A. F.f. Vernonia,
A. F.f. Vernoniz cristatum, Blechnum spicant (the Hard
Fern), B.s. imbricatum, Ceterach officinarum (the
Scaly Spleenwort), C. 0. crenatum, Cystopteris fragilis

116 Ferns and Fern Culture.

(the Brittle Bladder Fern), C. f. Dickieana, C. montana
(the Mountain Bladder Fern), Lastrea pseudo-mas crispa,
L. p.m. crispa cristata, Lastrea rigida (the Rigid Buckler
Fern), Polypodium dryopteris (the Oak Fern), P.
phegopteris (the Beech Fern), P. Robertianum (syn.
calcareum, the Limestone Polypody), P. vulgare cornu-
biense Fowlerii, P. v. elegantissimum, Polystichum ang.
Bayliz, P. a. parvissimum, P. a. proliferum densum, P.
lonchitis (the Holly Fern), Scolopendrium vulgare (the
Hartstongue Fern), S.v. Coolingii, S. v. cristulatum,
S. v. densum, S. v. digitatum, S. v. endivefolium, S. v.
fissum, S. v. grandiceps, S. v. marginatum tenue, S. v.
ramo-cristatum.

SCOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE.

Medium-sized species and varieties which grow from
one to two feet in height.

NortH AMERICAN.—Aspidium cristatum, A. Nove-
boracense, A. rigidum argutum, Asplenium thelypte-
rioides, Dennstzedtia punctilobula, Lastrea intermedia, L.
marginale, Onoclea sensibilis, Polystichum acrostichoides
P. Braunii, Woodwardia Virginica, Struthiopteris
Germanica (European).

BritisH.—Athyrium F.f. capitatum, A. F.f. cristatum,
A. F.f. Fielde, A. F.f. Frizelle cristatum, A. F.f.

irdlestoneii, A. F.f. Kilmoryensis, A. F.f. Mooreii, A.
F.£. polydactylum, A. F.f. princeps, A. F.f. pulcherrimum,
A. F.f. Smithii, A. F.f. stipatum, Lastrea emula (the

Ferns and Fern Culture. 117

Hay-scented Fern), L. dilatata cristato-gracile, L. d.
lepidota, L. Filix-mas fluctuosa, L. pseudo-mas Crouchii,
L. montana (the Mountain Buckler Fern, syn, L.
oreopteris), L. thelypteris (the Marsh Fern), Polypodium
alpestre, P.a. flexile, P. vulgare auritum, P. v. Cambricum
(the Welsh Polypody), P. v. crenatum, P. v. semilacerum
(the Irish Polypody), Polystichum aculeatum (the hard
Prickly Shield Fern), P. angulare acutilobum, P. a.
cristatum, P, a. divisilobum acutum, P. a. grandidens, P,
a. imbricatum, P. a. lineare, P. a. perserratum, P. a.
polydactylum, P. a. proliferum, P. a. p. Wollastonii, P.
a. rotundatum, P. a. Wakeleyanum, Scolopendrium v.
capitatum, S. v. crispum, S. v. multifidum.

Large species and varieties growing two feet high
and wowards.

Norra AMERICAN.—Aspidium cristatum Clintonia-
num, A. spinulosum Bootii, Athyrium Michauxii, Lastrea
Goldiana, Osmunda cinnamomea, produces its fertile
fronds in the centre of the plant, entirely distinct from
the barren; the spore cases, when matured, are cinna-
mon-coloured and very attractive; O. Claytoniana (syn.
O. interrupta), a very beautiful species; O. gracilis,
Polystichum munitum, Struthiopteris Pennsylvanica,
Lomaria Chilensis (Chilian species).

BritisH.—Athyrium F.f. corymbiferum, a handsome
crested variety ; A. F.f. Craigii, A. F.f. Elworthii, A. F.f.
glomeratum, A. F.f. Grantz, A. F.f. Howarde, A. F.f.
multifidum, A. F.f. plumosum, a beautiful variety, with
large graceful fronds; A. F.f. Pritchardii, a curious
variety, with long narrow cruciate fronds; A. F.f. ramo
cristatum, A. F.f. rheticum deflexum, pinnules curiously
refiexed; A. F.f. setigerum, a very beautiful variety, the
fronds having a bristly appearance; A Ff. thyssanotum,
A. F.f, todeoides, Lastrea dilatata (the Broad Buckler
Fern), L. d. crispato cristata, a pretty variety, with crisp-
looking and crested fronds; L. F.m. Barnesii, L. F.m.
Bollandiz, L. F.m. Cronkleyense, L. F.m. digitato
Jonesii, L. F.m. grandiceps, very heavily crested; L. F.m.
Ingramii, L. F.m. Iveryana, L. F.m. lineare, L, F.m,
abbreviata cristata Barnesii, a very distinct and pretty

118 ' Ferns and Fern Culture.

variety; L. pseudomas cristata, a handsome variety,
finely crested ; L. p.m. cristata angustata, fronds narrow,
crimpy, and crested, a distinct variety ; L. p.m. Pinderii,
L. p.m. polydactyla, an ornamental crested variety; L.
spinulosa (the Spiny Buckler Fern), Osmunda regalis (the
Royal Fern), one of the largest British Ferus—in a con-
genial position the fronds often attain a height of six feet;
O. r. cristata, a very handsome crested variety, of large
growth and pleasing appearance; Polystichum angulare
(the soft Prickly Shield Fern), P. a. cristato gracile, P.a.
divisilobum, P. a. multilobum (syn. P. a. venustum), a
beautiful variety ; P. a. proliferum Crawfordianum, Pteris
aquilina (the Brake Fern, or Bracken), grows to a large
size when planted in a damp, shaded, and sheltered
position; P. a. congesta, a peculiarly congested form ;
P. a. cristata, a crested variety of distinct appearance.

Specially choice species and varieties.

Norra AMERICAN.—Lastrea fragrans, a dwarf, com-
pact, pretty species, well named ‘‘The Violet-scented
Fern ;” Polystichum acrostichoides grandiceps, a heavily-
crested variety, sturdy and compact in habit; Woodsia
glabella.

BritisH.—Asplenium adiantum nigrum acutum,
fronds lighter in texture, larger, and more pointed than
the species; A. n. grandiceps, bears a comparatively
large crest at the apex of each frond; A. Germanicum
(syn. alternifolium, the Alternate-leaved Spleenwort) ; A.
septentrionale (the Forked Spleenwort).

Atkyrium F.f, acrocladon, fronds much branched, and
densely crested, is of compact habit, and very distinct ;
A. F.f. apicale, a pretty little compact variety, bearing a
roundish crest at the apex of each frond; -A. F.f. caudi-
gerum, fronds long, narrow, and peculiarly congested ;
A. F.f. conglomeratum, a nice compact variety, heavily
crested; A. F-.f. cristulatum, a pretty, dwarf, crested
variety; A. F.f. curtum multifidum, a dwarf variety,
narrow fronds, crested, specially neat in appearance ; A.
F.f. Frizelle coronare, a most beautiful variety of the
Frizellz section, fronds very narrow, and surmounted by
a large round yet light-looking crest; A. F.f. Frizelle

Ferns and Fern Culture. 119

gracile, fronds narrow, slender, graceful, divided into
two near the bottom; A. F.f, Frizelle ramo-cristatum, a
very pretty variety, fronds branched and crested ;' A. F.f.
gemmatum, very beautiful, fronds two feet long, rather
narrow, each pinna and the frond at the tip bearing crisp
crests; A. F.f. Girdlestoneii cristatum, a handsome de-
pauperated crested form, light and graceful; A. F.f.
Kalothrix, a lovely variety, the foliage very thin in
texture, delicate green in colour, finely cut and possessing
quite a Filmy-Fern appearance; A. F.f, plumosum ele-
gans, a most beautiful variety, the fronds, one-and-a-half
to two feet in length, very pale green, cut into exceed-
ingly fine segments; A. F.f. plumosum multifidum,
exceedingly pretty, the fronds light green, finely divided,
plumose, and heavily crested; A. F.f. regale, a variety of
very handsome appearance, the fronds erect in habit,
feathery, and crested; A.- F.f. setigerum capitatum,,a
dwarf variety, possessing the bristly character of seti-
gerum, and bearing a small dense crest at the apex of
each frond ; A. F.f. setigerum percristatum, a strikingly
beautiful variety, cristate throughout the whole frond,
the crests at the tips of the pinnze and the end of the
frond all arranged in regular order. A. F.f. Victoriz,
often styled ‘‘ The Queen of the Lady Ferns,” is certainly
unique. Its fronds attain a length of three feet; the
pinne arranged along the midrib are very narrow, crested,
and in pairs on each side of thestem. They branch at an
angle of 45°, one upwards, the other downwards, so that
there is a continual series of crossing pinnz from bottom
to top, forming a delicate lattice-work of green frondage.
The apex of each frond is crested, the plant has a sym-
_metrical graceful habit, and is very beautiful.

Among these Lady Ferns there are some of the most
beautiful Ferns in cultivation, and they will bear com-
parison with any of the Exotics. Their beauty is most
highly developed when cultivated in a cold greenhouse.

Blechnum spicant concinnum, very narrow crimpy
fronds; B. s. cristatum, a pretty crested variety ; B.s.
lineare, fronds long and very narrow, being regularly
contracted and neat in appearance; B. s. Maunderii, a
densely ramose, crested variety, grows like a green ball.

120 Ferns and Fern Culture.

B. s. plumosum (syn. B. s. serratum, Airey’s No. 1), a
beautiful variety, with deeply-serrated and sometimes
tripinnate fronds, which attain a length of eighteen
inches. B. s. trinervo-coronans, a very pretty crested
variety, one of the nicest of the genus.

Cystopteris alpina (the Alpine Bladder Fern, syn. C.
regia), a handsome species, fronds finely cut.

Lastrea dilatata spectabile, a dwarf and very pretty
variety, the fronds finely and distinctly cut ; L. pseudo-
mas cristata fimbriata (syn. L. p. m. plumosissima), a
very handsome variety, fimbriated, crested, much lighter
in appearance than the old cristata, compact in habit,
graceful, and makes a very pretty specimen. L. p.m,
ramosissima, a distinct variety, much branched and
crested ; L. montana coronans, a beautiful variety, fronds
narrow, crested, and compact in habit; L. m. ramo-
coronans, similar tothe preceding, but the fronds branched
and the whole appearance of the plant more pleasing.

Polypodium v. Cambricum Prestonii, a beautiful
plumose form of the Welsh Polypody; P. v. grandiceps,
a heavily crested and very handsome variety; P. v.
multifido-cristatum, fronds much branched and crested ;
Pp, v. trichomanoides, fronds dense, cut into numberless
fine segments, light green, and very pretty.

Polystichum angulare congestum, dense, overlapping
foliage; P. a. divisilobum decorum, produces large, broad,
drooping fronds, divided into small pinnules; P. a. d.
laxum, a very handsome variety, finely divided and
graceful; P.a.d. plumosum, one of the most beautiful
Ferns in cultivation, the fronds long, very broad at the
base, pinnules densely overlapping, producing a moss-like
appearance, finely cut, and elegant in the extreme; P. a,
foliosa crispum, fronds dense, foliose, and crisp in
appearance; P. a. folioso multifidum, a pretty variety,
fronds very leafy, crested; P. a. gracile, a very pretty
graceful variety ; P. a. grandiceps, erect in habit, narrow
fronds, bearing a dense crest, very handsome; P. a.
Pateyii, a plumose form of considerable beauty; P. a.
plumosum, a large and exceedingly handsome plumose
variety, makes a grand specimen ; P. a. plumoso divisi-
lobum gracile, very beautiful, finely cut, and graceful.

Ferns and Fern Culture. 121

Scolopendrium vulgare crispum fimbriatum, a very
beautiful variety, with large, deeply-frilled fronds,
fimbriated and dense—one of the most lovely of this
family ; S. v. crispum robustum, a large and exceedingly
handsome form of this pretty variety; S. v. crispum
Willsii, a specially pretty broad-fronded variety; S. v.
ramo-cristatum majus (Jones), a densely-branched and
crested variety, of fine appearance; S. v. ramo-margi-
natum, a very pretty crested variety, distinct and
attractive,

ScOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE RAMO-ORISTATUM MaJUS (JONES).

Of Hardy Ferns, the following are Evergreen when
protected from the frost: Adiantum capillus veneris
and its varieties, Aspidium (in part), Asplenium (in
part), Blechnum, Ceterach, Hymenophyllum, Lastrea
(in part)), Polypodium (nearly all), Polystichum, Scolo-
pendrium. Deciduous: Adiantum pedatum, Allosorus,
Aspidium (in part), Asplenium (in part), Athyrium,
Botrychium, Cystopteris, Dennstedtia, Onoclea, Ophio-
glossum, Osmunda, Phegopteris, Polypodium (in part),
Pteris, Struthiopteris, Woodsia, Woodwardia.

122 Ferns and Fern Culture.

The species and varieties enumerated in the pre-
ceding sections are suitable for borders, beds, or rock
ferneries, but the varieties should be selected according
to the space at disposal for their development,

SCOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE RAMO-MARGINATUM.

Section 11.

INSECT PESTS.

zy A ERNS are liable to attack from various insect

; pests. The following are the most common:
Scale, Th:. s, Green-fly, Black-fly, White-fly,
Mealy-bug, Cockroaches, Crickets, Woodlice,
Slugs, Snails, and Caterpillars.

Whenever any of these make their appearance means
should at once he taken to destroy them. If neglected
they quickly multiply, and become much more difficult
to eradicate.

Scale, Thrips, Green-fly, Black-fly, White-fly, and
Mealy-bug injure the plants by piercing the fronds and
sucking out the sap which should support the plant.
Cockroaches, Crickets, Woodlice, Slugs, and Snails eat
off the young fronds just as they are rising ; Slugs are not
content with this, but mutilate older fronds; Caterpillars
feed upon the developed fronds, sometimes making
terrible havoc.

Several kinds of Scale infest Ferns, the commonest
being the brown and the white. They attach themselves
to the fronds, and have the appearance of small protuber-
ances, brown and hard, or white. When the young
emerge from their coverings they are white ; they creep
along the fronds in large numbers, eventually attaching
themselves to a spot where they remain stationary, and
proceed to reproduce themselves, meanwhile feeding upon

the plant.

124 Ferns and Fern Culture.

Whenever a plant is infested by these it should be care-
fully cleared of them. They should be rubbed off with
the fingers, a pointed stick, or small piece of sponge
fastened on the end of a stick. As the foliage is easily
injured, the operation must be performed with care.
After all that can be seen are removed, the plant should
be sponged with warm water, in which a little soft soap
has been dissolved. When the plant has plenty of foliage,
fronds with a large number of scale on them may be cut
off instead of being cleaned, but this must be done judici-
ously, or unnecessary injury will be done to the plant.

Thrips are exceedingly small insects, white when young,
gradually becoming black as they arrive at maturity
They are about in. in length, with thin bodies, but
notwithstanding their smallness they are very des-
tructive. They usually harbour on the under surface of
the fronds, but not always. They pierce the cuticle of
the frond, and cause great disfigurement to the plant, as
wellas injury. They attack Hardy Ferns when growing
in a house with artificial heat, and plants that are weak
and sickly from any cause come in for their special
attention.

The most effectual and the easiest mode of destroying
these pests is by fumigation several times on alternate
nights. This, if strong enough, will destroy most of
them for a time, but unfortunately there are many
Ferns, particularly Adiantums, which cannot do with
fumigation with tobacco paper; therefore, any time this
is resorted to, the greatest care will be necessary. One
of the safest modes of fumigation is undoubtedly by
‘ Lethorion cones,” which are both safe and effectual.

A good plan is to sponge the plants infested, using
warm water with a little soft soap dissolved in it, and
half as much water added in which quassia chips have
been boiled. If the; plants are in pots they should be
carried out of the fernery while being cleaned, otherwise
the thrips will jump off the plant and soon get on others.
To eradicate these troublesome creatures considerable
patience and perseverance are necessary.

Green-fly harbours on young fronds often, and may be
removed by the fingers or a small brush. If very

Ferns and Fern Culture. 125

numerous ina house, two or three gentle fumigations
will usually destroy them. Another plan is to put a
little soft soap in warm water, and beat it into a lather.
This may then be put on the Ferns where the fly is
located, and it will killthem. This should not be done to
Adiantums, but most other kinds liable to these insects
may be so treated without injury.

White-fly is rather more troublesome to deal with, as
the moment the plant is touched many fly off. Any plant
infested should be carefully carried outside and shaken.
All that do not fly off may be easily killed, as in the cold
air they appear to become stupefied. After all the flies
are killed, if the plant be examined there will be seen
numbers of tiny white eggs fastened to the fronds.
These if not removed will soon hatch and another gener-
ation will have to be dealt with. The plant should be
sponged as recommended in the case of Thrips, and
examined again in two or three days for any that have
escaped. When plants infested are planted out and can-
not be removed, then either the soft soap lather must be
applied or fumigation be resorted to.

Mealy-bug is a peculiar-looking insect, covered with a
cotton-wool like substance, very difficult to eradicate
when once it gets a firm footing, but fortunately not
nearly so common in ferneries as the other pests men-
tioned. Plants much affected are difficult to clear of it,
as again and again it makes its appearance. It is often
the wisest course to throw all such into the furnace,
fronds and roots as well. Nothing but persistent spong-
ing, picking, and cleaning will be effectual for its
destruction. Ferns will not bear the syringing and dip-
ping that hard-wooded stove plants will, hence gentler
methods as suggested must be employed.

Cockroaches and Crickets commence their depredations
when night comes on, and do most mischief when there
is no one there to see them. Traps should be set for
these—Birkenhead’s Cockroach and Cricket Trap being
one of the best. Poison may be laid for them also, and
there need be no difficulty in getting rid of them, or at
least reducing their numbers, so that those left will be of
little consequence. They, must not, however, be left

126 Ferns and Fern Culture.

undisturbed, even when there are but a few, for, like
insects generally, they rapidly multiply, and soon do
irreparable mischief.

Woodlice are night raiders, hiding in chinks, holes,
under pots, and in other places during the day. Traps
should be laid for these. Pieces of turnip, apple, or
potato hollowed out, and placed so that they can get in,
will often entice them, and they may be caught the next
day upon examination of the traps.

Small pots with a little potato in, and filled loosely with
moss or hay, placed on their sides near where the insects
harbour, will prove very effective traps. They should
be examined every morning.

A few toads, notwithstanding the aversion many people
have for them, kept in a fernery will destroy a large
number of these injurious insects.

Slugs and Snails should be sought for by lamplight.
They can rarely be found during the day, although their
trail is very conspicuous. About an hour after dark they
come out of their hiding places, and may then be caught
as they are about to commence further mischief. Some-
times, with the most persistent search, they evade detec-
tion. It is then advisable to put down little heaps of
bran, saturated with vinegar, and examine them late at
night; or lay a few lettuce leaves about, under which
they will often creep, and where they may be found the
next morning. Hollowed turnips, carrots, and apples
serve well as traps. Maidenhair Ferns are terribly pes-
tered by little snails, some with spiral and others with
circular shells. These may sometimes be found during
the day by looking among the fronds and the crowns of
the plants, but being small and dark-coloured they may
be easily overlooked. Tiny slugs, after eating the centres
out of the young fronds, just as they rise from the crown,
often creep into the crowns to hide, and may be found
by diligent search. Incessant warfare must be waged
against these pests, large and small, or many Ferns will
be prevented growing as they otherwise would do.

Caterpillars are very troublesome in the outdoor
fernery, and sometimes in cold houses. These must be
sought for by daylight and picked off by hand, there

Ferns and Fern Culture. 127

being no other way of dealing with them. Another
pest which, during the last few years, has made itself
very obnoxious to cultivators of plants, is a weevil, dark-
coloured and very hard, with roundish body, head pro-
longed, antennz bent, and slow in its movements. These
creatures are very destructive to hardy Ferns particularly
Scolopendriums. They hide during the day, and at
night they feed upon the fronds, eating holes in them
and pieces out. The greatest mischief, however, is done
by the larve—white, legless grubs, which work their
way among the roots, eating every one they come to,
Plants are seen to be drooping, and on examination it
is found they are quite loose, the roots underneath being
almost completely sheared off. This is only discovered
when the mischief is done, and so far there does not
appear to be any way of destroying these pests apart
from catching them. To accomplish this, the matured
insect must be sought for by candlelight ; but this must
be done very quietly and expeditiously, as the moment
the weevils see the light they drop to the ground, remain
perfectly motionless, and it is almost impossible to find
them. When a plant has been eaten during some night,
the culprit may occasionally be found the next day
carefully hidden away in the crown, or in a hole near, so
that it is always well to be on the look-out. When
plants are being repotted there should be a sharp look-
out kept for the larve ; they are easily seen, being white.
The eggs, also, may be found in clusters in the soil, and,
of course, should be treated in the same manner the
more developed larve are when they are caught.

Although the insects which are troublesome to the
cultivator of Ferns are so numerous, they may be kept
down very easily by taking them in hand as soon as they
make their appearance. It is when they are allowed to
increase, without efforts to restrict them being put forth,
that they become so difficult to deal with.

CONCLUSION.

S this treatise deals solely with Ferns, these only
have received notice. The best results are
attained when Ferns are cultivated in struc-
tures specially adapted to their requirements,

but many cultivators are unable to provide such, and
their Ferns have to grow along with other plants. When
this is the case, the Ferns should be placed where they
will be least exposed to the sun, and yet receive as much
light as is possible. Other plants able to bear strong
light may occupy the more exposed positions.

In vineries many Ferns will grow well. During the
summer the vines provide shade for the plants below,
and during winter, these having lost their foliage, the
Ferns receive the unrestricted light, with all of which
they can do at that season of the year.

If it be desired to intermix some other plants with Ferns
when these are growing in a house devoted mainly to
them, ornamental-leaved begonias, palms, and other
foliage plants will be found to associate harmoniously
with them. For coverir.g rockwork the pretty, ivy-like,
clinging Ficus repens, the smaller and neater-looking
Ficus minima, and small-leaved green and variegated
Ivies are admirably suited. As trailing plants to hang
over ledges of rocks and clothe the surface of the
soil, Sibthorpia Europea, its beautiful though somewhat
delicate-looking variegated variety, Tradescantias, Isole-
pis gracilis, and similar plants, are not to be surpassed.

Flowering plants, usually, are not desirable, and such
as produce gaudy, showy flowers are objectionable.

Masses of colour, brilliant and dazzling as they some-
times are, may be quite in place elsewhere, but not in the
fernery. There the delightful retreshing greenery
should afford rest to the eye, and allow the sight to
wander from plantto plant, taking in all their unassuming
and unobtrusive beauty without the weariness frequently
produced by the glaring colours exhibited in the flowers
of some other plants.

Joun HEywoop, Excelsior Printing & Bookbinding Works, Hulme Hall Road, Manchester,

A VALUABLE PUBLICATION.

The largest, most beautiful, useful, interesting and
profuseiy

Sllustrated Catalogue

FERNS & SELAGINELLAS

EVER PUBLISHED (No. 22.)

It contains 150 fine Illustrations (many of them
full page), which give an admirable idea of the habit
and appearance of the various species represented.

It also gives many synonyms of the Ferns, the
countries of which they are natives; the average height
to which they grow; many descriptions, together with
a large amount of interesting matter of various kinds,
constituting it a highly-valuable book for every Fern
lover,

Price TWO SHILLINGS, Post Free.

W. & J. BIRKENHEAD,

Fern Hurseries,
SALE, MANCHESTER. |

I

a,

LAS

Collections of FERNS & SELAGIN

cw. & J. B.’s SELECTION),
For STOVE, WARM, COOL or COLD GREENHOUSE.

12 different kinds ... ... 1. .. «. 4/- larger 6/- Q/- —:19-
2 do. do, uae ee vee ee oe (10/6, = 15/- DN f- D5
50 do do 2. ue we we D5) = 85/- 50/- G3
100 in 50 different kinds... ... .. ... 5O/- 4 63/- 75/- — 84y-
100 in 100 do. dow. ke ee 70> = BAY: 105/- — 126/-
12 Hardy Exotic, different kinds... «0 0... 0 6/ Q/- = 12/
25 do. do. do. do, wc ue vee ee eee ZI/- — 30/- BH y-
12 Hardy Exotic and British... 2. 0. 1. 3/- 4/- 6+ 9-
25 do. do, ee ee ee = 10/6 = 15/- Q1/- = 5y-
50 do. dow ok ee ee 80> 50/- -63/- Ty
100 do. in 50 kinds .. .. .. 50/- 63/- 75/- —-SA-
100 do. in 100 do ow. we we = B4A/- -105/- 126/- 150/--
6 different kinds for Dwelling House... ... 3/46 OG /-- 9j-
6 do. do. for Fern Stands or Cases ... 9/- 3/- 6 /- g-
12 = do. do. do. do... 6/- O/- 12/- 18)-
25 do. do. do. do. ... 15/- Q1f- 25/- — 35y-
12 ~~ do. do. for Window Cases ... ... 4/- 6/- = 9f- =~ 19}
12 do. do. for Window Boxes ... ... 3/- 4/- 6/- 9/-
6 do. do. for Baskets... ... ss. see 3/- 6/- 9/- —-:1}-
‘12 do = do. don eee wee vee 19/18 DA/- — 80-
Ferns on Cork for Suspending... ... ...each 1/6 2/6 3/6 5/-

HARDY BRITISH FERNS FOR ROCKERIES, &,

Strong, well-rooted Plants, in 8 of the larger, and, if desired, in 6 or 8
of the smaller growing species sie, Stas 20/- per hundred.

Disappointment is often experienced when recently collected, low-priced
Plants are bought. Sometimes they are very small, at other times almost
destitute of foots, and rarely do any good. It is much better to pay a little
more for such Plants as are offered above, which always give satisfaction.

W. & J. BIRKENHEAD,

FERN NURSERIES, SALE, Manchester,

REQUISITES FOR FERN CULTURE.

COMPOST, consisting of loam, leaf-mould and
sand, in their proper proportions ready for use.
One Bushel Sack, 2/6; Two Bushel Sack, 4/6.

COMPOST, consisting of loam, leaf-mould, sand
and peat. One Bushel Sack, 2/6; Two Bushel
Sack, 4/6.

COMPOST, consisting of loam, leafmould, silver
sand, peat and Charcoal, for the choicest
varieties. One Bushel Sack, 3/-; Two Bushel
Sack, 5/6.

LOAM, of excellent quality. One Bushel Sack, 2/-;
Two Bushel Sack, 3/6.

LEAF MOULD of finest quality. One Bushel
Sack, 3/-; Two Bushel Sack, 5/6.

PEAT, best quality. One Bushel Sack, 3/6; Two
Bushel Sack, 6/6.

SILVER SAND (coarse, the best for Ferns). One
Bushel Sack, 4/-.

CHARCOAL, in large pieces or fine. One Bushel
Sack, 2/6; Two Bushel Sack, 4/6.

GREEN WOOD MOSS. One Bushel Sack, 3/-5
Two Bushel Sack, 5/6.

SPHAGNUM MOSS. One Bushel Sack, 4/-;
Two Bushel Sack, 7/6.

SANDSTONE, broken small. One Bushel Sack,
2/6.

— Sack returned in good condition, carriage paid
N.B.—For every Sacca. each will be allowed. : “

VIRGIN CORK, 20/- per cwt., ae per }- siden 6/- per }-cwt.

-W. & J. BIRKENHEAD,

Fern Nurseries, SALE, Manchester.

THE BEST PLACE
TO PROGURE FERNS.

RNS)

PRG you wis Ea hay OY

“COLLECTION OF FERNS ™
/ different fromthose commonly seen
“? you can obtain such from

‘#7 FERN NURSERIES SALE, MANCHESTER
\, Who have 1400 DIFFERENT-KINDS to
' SEIBCL From. GATACOGUE ON-APPLICATION. .

PATENT.

LETHORION (VAPOUR CONE).

They are now universally admitted
to be thoroughly uniform in strength
and safe for any plant or flower,
even if four times the quantity are
used. Scale and mealy-bug may be
completely eradicated by using the
Cones double strength.

PRICES’:
For frames of 50 to 100 cubic feet,
No. 1, reduced to........ 6d. each
500 feet, No. 2 .......... 1s, Od. ,,
1,000 feet, No.3 ........ 1s. 6d. ,,
4,000 feet, No. 4 ........ 5s. 0d. ,,

Sold by Messrs, W. & J. BIRKENHEAD, Fern Nurser” SALE,
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ARE YOU TROUBLED BY |
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aN

| il i )

i
f i

val
i i
rm

IF SO, YOU SHOULD OBTAIN ONE OR MORE OF
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Ask your lronmonger or Seedsman for them, or write to

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THE ADVANTAGE, BIRKENHEAD’S TRAPS have OVER ALL OTHERS is,
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cldse to the wall, are more effectual than other Traps of different shape. There is ni
TIN TO RUST, WIRE TO BEND, or anything else to get out of order.

BS

t
The following are selected from a large number of similar unsolicited Testimonials.

A gentleman had five Trdps from us, and writing afterwards, says: ‘‘ The Traps were

» ‘very successful; one Trap caught last Bee no less than 2,000.”

Writing again several days after, he sent a further remittance, saying: ‘‘ As all the Traps
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you send one to each of the four following addresses.”

A tl sending a d order writes: ‘‘In one night I caught 1,570 Beetles
in one Trap in the stoke-hole of my greenhouse, and 1,074 in another in the

kitchen. I have caught great numbers since, but have not taken the trouble to
count them.”

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‘WHITE. GREEN.
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T herewith enclose you order for 300 yards Willesden Scrim Shading the same as before
On account of His Grace the Duke of Marlborough, Blenheim Gardens, Woodstock.—
April 24th, 1891.”

‘‘T am most satisfied with my previous purchase of this article.”—Gro. FELLOWS, Esq.,
Nottingham. :

“ Your Scrim gives great satisfaction.”—R. P, Barger, Esq., Hounslow.

‘T have some of the Scrim in use, and it has answered admirably and wears well.”—
Rev. THos. CaRRouu, Netley, Hants.

*‘Very durable, and quite worth the additional expense over the ordinary material."—
C. H. Goopman, Esq., Wandsworth. ;

‘The Scrim is as good as new now,”—F. D. Campzett, Esq., Eastbourne.

“Your Rot-proof Scrim is very durable "—Sir Lusaincron Paruuips, Kingsbridge.

“T take this opportunity of saying how much pleased I am with the Scrim for shading
Orchid Houses, I had my blinds up all the Winter, so as to use them on cold nights,
and have found them most useful, and they wear well.”—Joun Duxe, Esq., M.D.,
Lewisham.

“T have used your Scrim for Greenhouse Blinds, and it is as good now as the first day
it was put up (four years ago). I have recommended it to many friends.”"—
S. H. 0. Kincsrorp, Esq., Patent Office.

WILLESDEN ROT-PROOF CANVAS, for all purposes and all climates.

WILLESDEN ROOFING (4-ply). 9d. per yard run, 19 in. wide. Lord Egerton of
Tatton has found that Uattle uuder Sheds Roofed with Willesden Roofing do better
than under Slate Roofs, which he attributes to the fact that it is cooler in Summer
and warmer in Winter.—See the Globe, Monday, December 8, 1884.

WILLESDEN PAPER (2-ply and 1-ply), for underlinings, damp walls, etc.

WILLESDEN PAPER AND CANVAS WORKS,

Willesden Junction, N.W.,
London Depot:—51, BOW LANE, EO.
Liverpool Depot:—43, SOUTH JOHN STREET.

WILLIAM COOPER’S HORTICULTURAL APPLIANCES.

AMATEUR CREENHOUSE.

Made in sections, so that
any gardener or handy man
can erect with facility in a
few hours. Simply screwed
together. ft. by 5ft., 56/-;
Oft. by Gft., £4; 12ft. by Sft.,
£6; 15ft. by 1l0ft., £8 10s. ;
20ft. by 10ft., £12; 25ft. by
10ft., £17.

ANY SIZE MADE.

One-light Frames, 4ft. by 3ft., 18s. ;
ditto, 6ft. by 4ft., £1 10s. Two-light
Frames, 6ft. by 4ft., £1 12s.; ditto,
8ft. by 6ft., £2 14s. Three-light Frames,
12ft. by 6ft., £3 15s.

THE ONLY PERFECT PROPAGATOR

For Raising Plants from Seeds, Slips,
or Cuttings.

CoMPLETE FROM 25/]-

HORTICULTURAL
GLASS—GLASS—GLASS.

10,000 Buxes to select from.

150z., 100ft. 21oz., 100ft. 150z., 290ft. 21oz., 200ft.
4th. 8s. 9d. 12s. Od. 17s. 0d. 24s. Od.
8rd. 10s. Od. 18s. 6d. 19s. Od. 26s. 6d.
All sizes in stock. Glass cut to any size required : 15oz.,
14d. per ft.; 2loz., 234. per ft. Large sizes for cutting
up: 15oz., per case 300ft., 26s. ; 2loz., per case 200ft., 26s.
All glass is cut and packed in own warehouses; quality of
glass and careful packing guaranteed. Special quotations
given for large quantities. Have cash estimate from me
before ordering elsewhere.
PUTTY prepared especially for greenhouse work, 7s. cwt.

GARDEN
LIGHTS.

4ft. by 3ft., 6/6.
6ft. by 4ft., 9/-

PAINTED, AND GLAZED
WITH 21oz.

WtEL ELIA nM COOPEFER,
Horticultural Provider,

SEND FOR LIST.

*

747 to 755, OLD KENT ROAD, LONDON, S.E.

William Cooper's Heating Apparatus.

COOPER’S IMPROVED

AMATEUR HYGIENIC HEATER.

For Burning Paraffin Oil or Gas without Smoke or Smell.

These Heaters are constructed as a means of heating by Hot Air without the use of
Hot Water or Fires. Its peculiar construction economises the Heat generated, so that
there is no waste of Heat or Fuel. There being perfect combustion in this Stove, and
nothing whatever injurious to Plants, but actually everything conducive to their health,
it should be observed that Plants may be had in full bloom throughout the severest.
Winter. This cannot be obtained in Stoves of other systems.

Carefully packed and put on rail at tne following prices :—

No. 0 will heat House 7ft. by 5 consumes } Pt, Oilial0 hrs. 1 0 0 extra forgas 2 0
No. 1 . oft. by 6 4, 1 3 110 0 55 20
No. 2 4 12ft.by 8 4, I ss 25 0 is 30
No. 8 5 15ft.by10 ,, 2 is 35 0 He 5 0
No. 4 ” 20ft. by 10 55 2 a 310 0 oh 12 0
No. 5 re Q5ft. by10 ,, 4 ss 400 is

THE “INVINCIBLE” HOT WATER APPARATUS,

(TENANT'S FIXTURE.)

FITTED WITH
AND IRON

COMPLETE. CHIMNEYS.

This is the simplest, cheapest, and most powerful Hot Water Apparatus made.

Cost of complete Apparatus for Greenhouses with 4in, pipes, flow and return along
one side cut and fitted ; so that if the internal measurement of the, Greenhouse is given,
the Apparatus will be delivered completely ready for fixing, an advantage which will be
appreciated by all.

Securely packed and forwarded carriage paid to any station in the United Kingdon»
at the following respective prices :—

10ft. by 7ft. 12ft. by 8ft. 15ft. by 10ft. 20ft. by 10ft. 25ft. by 10ft. 5Oft. by 10ft.

5 0 0 £510 0 £610 0 £712 0 £8 5 0 £1215 0

The following are extra: Set of Stoking Tools, 5s. ; Cap to Stove Pipe, if required, 1s. 6d.

N.B.—PRICES OF ABOVE ARE NOW REDUCED 20 PER CENT.
For other Apparatus see List, post free.

WILLIAM COOPER,

747 to 755, OLD KENT ROAD, LONDON, S.E

WILLIAM COOPER’S MANURES.

Manures—Various.

Orchid Peat, 6/- per sack, 5 for 25/-, 10 for 45/.

Best Brown Fibrous Peat, 2/6 per sack, 6 for
13/-, 10 for 20/-

Good General Peat, 2/- per sack, 6 for 10/-, 10
for 15/-

Rhododendron Peat, 2/- per sack, 6 for 10/-,
10 for 15/-

Rich Brown Loose Peat, 2/- per sack, 6 for
10/-, 10 for 15/-

Cocoanut Fibre Refuse, 9d. per sack, 10 for
T/-, 15 for 10/-, 20 for 13/-, 30 for 20/-

Best Peruvian Guano, 16/- per cwt.

Nitrate of Soda, 14/- per cwt.

Sulphate of Ammonia, 17/- per cwt.

Nitrate of Potash, 1S/- per cwt.

Kainit, 6/- per ewt.

Superphospste, 6/6 per cwt.

Charcoal nuts or fine, 4/6 per sack, 6 for 24/-,
10 for 36/-

Silver Sand, 1/4 per cwt., all sacks free.

Loam, Surrey, splendid quality, 2/6 per sack,
5 for 11/-, 10 fur 20/-

General Potting Compost, 2/6 per sack, 6 for
18/-, 10 for 20/-

Prepared Compost for Potting Ferns, 2/6 per
sack, 6 for 13/-, 10 for 20/-

Prepared Compost for Potting Bulbs, 2/6 per
sack, 6 for 13/-, 10 for 20/-

Leaf Soil, well decayed, 2/6 per sack, 6 for
18/-, 10 for 20/-

Pure Dry Blood, 15/- per cwt.

Dissolved Bone Compound, 9/- per cwt.

Bone Flour, 9/6 per cwt.

Bone Meal, 9/6 per cwt,

Half-inch Bones, &/6 per cvwt,

Superphosphate of Lime, 7/- per cwt

COOPER'S
WONDERFUL NEW

MUSHROOM SPAWN.

Very best quality, produc ng abundant Crops
of Superior Fleshy Mushrooms,
1 bushel— 16 bricks a 4/-
” 112,
14s, 244,

WILLIAM COOPER'S

FUMIGATING INSECTICIDE

CERTAIN DEATH TO INSECT PESTS,

* Two or three of these suspended by a wire
under a greenhouse stage, and lighted at
each end, will quickly settle the accounts of
the green fly and thrips, and that with com-
paratively little trouble. Success guar-
anteed. 6d. each; 6 for 2s. 6d., 4s. Gd. per
doz., 6 doz. 208., 35s. per gross.

_, WILLIAM. COOPER'S
GENERAL”
FERTILIZER.

Tins, 4d.; 7lb. Bags, 1s. ;
14lb. Bags, 2s.

This high-class Manure is stiongly recom-
mended for all kiads cf Flowers, Fruit
Trees, and Vegetables; and will be found -
invaluable buth for improving and increasing
the produce. Suitable for all Crops.

WILLIAM COOPER'S

WORM DESTROYER.

Invaluable for destroying Worms on Tennis
Courts, Cricket Grounds, Bowling Greens
and Lawnsg, or removing them from the roots
of Plants in Pots. Prices: In bottles, 1s. 6d.
and 3s.; per gallon, 7s,; quantities over 5
gallons, 5s, per gallon.

WILLIAM COOPER'S

SUNSHADE.

SUPERSEDES ALL OTHER PREPARA-
TIONS OF THE KIND,

The cheapest, most efficient, and conve-
nient preparation for Shading Greenhouses,
Conservatories, Glass Roofs, and Windows of
all descriptions. Prices in Tins, 1lb., 6d,;
2lb., 1s. ; 7lb., 38. 6d.

WILLIAM COOPER'S

WEED DESTROYER.

MY OWN MANUFAOTURE.
For permanently destroying Vegetation on
Walks, Carriage Drives, dc, Prices: In cans
and casks: 1 gal., 2/-; 5 gals, 1/6 per gal. ;
10 gals., 1/4 per gal. ; 20 gals,, 1/3 per gal. ;
40 gals., 1/- per gal.

WILLIAM COOPER'S

INSECTICIDE.

Is the most Effective, the Safest, and the
Cheapest Insect Destroyer, One gallon of
this Insecticide will make 200 gallons of
efficient wash. Price in bottles: 4 pint, 6d.;
1 pint, 1/-; 1 quart, 1/6; 4 gallon, 3/-; 1
gallon, 5/- special price for large quantities.

For other Manuves, &c., See List, Post Free,

Ww. COOPER, HORTICULTURAL PROVIDER,
747 to '755, OLD KENT ROAD, LONDON, §.E.

GREENHOUSE MATERIALS.

W. COOPER,

HORTICULTURAL PROVIDER,
747 to 755, Old Kent Road, LONDON, E.C.

THOROUGHLY WELL-SEASONED YELLOW DEAL SASHBAR.

lfin. by lin... we ee £0 3) OD Per 100ft. Run.
Qin, 4, Vins gui see ees ase be, OOO 4 6 i
Odin, y, lim 0. wee eee ee 0 GG 5

Sit, «gg Abt bee. eee ee ae ae
Pit Light Stile and Top Rail.

Qhin. ,, [pin, 0 owe ee ee BO 9 6 5
Din, 4, 2s ‘aes Gee de hte ade, 0 10 6 i
3in. ,, Zin, ... twee aye, OB 26 53
Prepared Quartering.
44in, 4310. 4... aes we we wel 8 0 iy
Bin. 5, Sim a ave ave te Oe OO 1 8 Rs
Bin, 35 Bins acc see ae ae ee 0 12 0 5
Sin, 4; Udine ves ces ew aes ee 0 10 0 “4
3in. lin... 0 7 0 -

Prepared Sills, 7in. by 2hin,, 31d. per foot Run.
Ridges, Grooved, 7in. by lin, 24d. per foot Run.
Half Glass Doors, 5ft Gin. by 2tt. 6in., 8s. 6d. each,
Do. do. 6ft. by 2ft. 6in., Qs. 6d. each,

Top or Side Ventilators, 2ft. Gin. by 2ft., 2s. 6d. each,
2in, Beads, 1s. 9d. per 100ft. Run.

Zin, Matchboards, sie Grooved, and

Beaded... ... eis 68, 6d.
4in. Ditto "do. dey aps ae De Per 100ft. super
lin. Ditto do. dOF sas cas tea Gs

lin. Yellow Floorboards ... ... ...10s. 6d.

Special Quotations given for
Large Quantities, and all
other materials required
for Building Greenhouses, °
&e., &e.

SANE EDY’sS

“SPECIAL CHRYSANTHEMUM POTS’

SANK EY’S

“SPECIAL TOMATO POTS”

SANK EHY’S

“SPECIAL VINE POTS
"ORCHID POTS"

LARGEST
MANUFACTURERS
IN THE WORLD.

Wenuseceauncesecucucuecuaueucsuuneesucescouee

Carriage and Breakage
: free on £10 orders;
half carriage on £5 orders.

AGENTS IN NEARLY ALL
PARTS OF THE UNITED
KINGDOM.

Where no Agents Sankey’s quote for

g= SMALL QUANTITIES DELIVERED FREE. <q
SAMPLES AND PRICES FREE.

The Great
ROSE,
DAHLIA and
VINE GROWERS.

KEYNES, WILLIAMS & C0.,

LTHH NURSERIES,

SALISBURY.

CATALOCUES CRATIS.

TWENTY-FIVE AWARDS OF MERIT.

Usep IN THE ROYAL GARDENS.
ESPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE CULTIVATION oF
FLOWERS, FRUITS & VECETABLES.

y) 4 FOR

f FERNS
ISS. FOR

FERNS

H] eo In Packets, 1lb., 6d.; 2lbs., 1/-; \ , 2/6; Postage Batra
wD ss ALso IN Bags, 14lbs., 4/6; 28lbs., 7/6; S6lbs., 12/6 H

1121bs., 20/- ; Carriage Paid.
REGISTERED

Of Nurserymen, Seedsmen, Florists and Chemists,
OR DIRECT FROM

WILLIAM COLCHESTER, IPSWICH.

GARDEN-WORK

(ILLUSTRATED).
WREEKLY-ONEH PENNY.

A Paper for the Million, which should be obtained by all who take pleasure in having
a good supply of

FLOWERS, FRUITS, AND VEGETABLES.

THE BEST, MOST PRACTICAL AND USEFUL ILLUSTRATED
PENNY GARDENING PAPER IN THE WORLD.

(EVERY AMATEUR IN TOWN OR COUNTRY SHOULD OBTAIN A COPY.

GARDEN-WORK

Roo}

May be obtained of any

ler, Stati

Annual Subscription, 6s. 6d.

, or at any of the Railway Bookstalls.

A First-class Medium for Advertisers.

WHAT THE PRESS _ SAYS :—

**GaRDEN-WoRK’ wi)l worthily fill the

lene It is an excellent pennyworth, and we do not
think that those who invest in this pennyworth of
wisdom willrun the slightest chance of being‘ pound
foolish.’ Gardeners’ Chronicle.

“Promises to be aseful to tens of thousands who

paper. Every page is written in
ates style, and there is an entire absence of
inaccurate scientific jargon that is too common in
many journals,”—Morning Post.

“ Really a first-rate piece of journalistic com-

care much for plain andits
price (1d.) should carry it into every household were
@ garden paper is likely to find a welcome.”
Gardeners’ aegneit ae

av: of pl t reading and
weston eran for ey who O possess even the
smallest strip of garden ground.”—Times,

‘We have no doubt this new venture will
have an e ion.”—Literary World.

“ *GaRDEN-WoRK ' is, we think, the best of its class
that has appeared, and would be very useful ‘for
amateurs, as well as for those more experienced m
horticultural matters."—Weekly Budget.

EDW. H. MAY, Publisher. Office: 171, Fleet St., London, E.C.

‘KENT, the GARDEN OF ENGLAND.’
600,000 FRUIT TREES TRUE TO NAME.

THE GRANDEST STOOK IN EUROPE,

BOTH MARKET AND GARDEN TREES,

VERY CLEAN AND WELL TRAINED.
WALL, ORCHARD-HOUSE TREES, FIGS, VINES, &c.
The New Descriptive Illustrated List, 6 Stamps. Reference List Gratis.

NEW STRAWBERRY CATALOGUE IN JULY:
LIBERAL TERMS, FREE CARRIAGE, and CASH DISCOUNTS.

GEORGE BUNYARD & CO.,

THE OLD NURSERIES, MAIDSTONE,

Also 40 ACRES FOREST TREES, ROSES, SHRUBS, and CONIFERS,
in Splendid Order for Removal. List free.

‘By Royal: Letters Patent.
WwWEEKS’S PATENT

Duplex Compensating Upright Tubular Boiler

For Heating Conservatories, Vineries, Greenhouses, Churches, Chapels,
Schools, Billiard Rooms, Warehouses, &c., j

‘Offers advantages totally unheard of,and unapproached by any of its contemporaries
THE ONLY INDESTRUCTIBLE BOILER.

(FS —\aand

A AND
REAL SOURCE.
BOON OF
ee PROFIT
GARDENERS

UPWARDS OF 3 000 IN OPERATION.
“SUVJA NAL YO4 ATIVNOILIQNOD O33.NVUVND

———s =

Conservator Houses, and all garden structures
of BEST WORKMANSHIP & MATERIALS ONLY. .

For full particulars and Lithographs of Boilers, also rs5th ENLARGED EDITION} 4
of Illustrated Catalogue and particulars of their new Hydro-Caloric Warming ati
Ventilating Apparatus, post free, apply to— “s

J. WEEEKS & CO.,*
Horticultural Builders and Hot-Water Apparatus Manufacturers,
° KING’S ROAD, CHELSEA, S.W.

THE GARDENING WORLD

ESTABLISHED 1884.

The Leading Gardening Paper.

PUBLISHED EVERY THURSDAY FOR SATURDAY,
Price ONE PENNY; Post Free, THREE-HALFPENCE. ">

A FIRST-CLASS §=MEDIUM FOR ADVERTISING.

Subscription payable in advance, Three Months, 1s, 8d. ;
Six Months, 8s, 8d.; Twelve Months, 6s. 6d.

PUBLISHING OFFICE:—

|, CLEMENT'S INN, STRAND, LONDON, W.C.

THE “sSsToTT”

HORTICULTURAL SPECIALITIES.

PATENT DISTRIBUTOR, 28/- complete.
PATENT SPRAYER, 4/- and 5/- each.
PATENT INSECTICIDE SYRINGE,”'sprayer.’ 21/- each.

KILLMRICHT.

Best, safest Insecticide for garden pests and eradication
of mildew.

FEEDMRICHT.

BEST FERTILIZER FOR ALL PLANT LIFE.
Write for Price Lists. 2 oz. Sample Killmright free on application.

THE “STOTT” DISTRIBUTOR CO. .LD,
Barton House, Manchester.

HARD EMAN’S
GREENHOUSE INSECTICIDE

AND CELEBRATED

WOODLICE EXTERMINATOR

NON=POISONOUS, (REGISTERED. ) NON=POISONOUS,
Harmless to Plants,
‘And specially recommended to growers of Mushrooms, Cucumbers & Ferns,
BELLOWS FOR Destroys

DISTRIBUTION OF WOODLICE,
THE POWDER. THRIPS,
GREEN FLY,
: 4 ANTS,
i LS BEETLES,
‘CRICKETS,

_ To Re-fill Bellows remove small Cork at bottom. ;
Sold in tin dredgers, 6d., 1/-, 2/6, 5/-; and in bulk of 1-lb., 3-lb., 5-lb., and
7-Ib. cases. Bellows, 1/- each, filled, free by post for 1/2.
ALSO THE FOLLOWING REQUISITES FOR GREENHOUSE USE:
PLANT SOAP, FLOWER CHMANT,
INDELIBLE INK for Wood Labels, ZINC LABEL INK, &c.

Beetles & Crickets, however numerous, destroyed in a few nights,
HARDEMAN’S CELEBRATED

LONDON BEETLE POWDER

AND UNIVERSAL INSECT DESTROYER.
NON=POISONOUS. (REGISTERED.) NON=POISONOUS,
DESTROYS BEETLES, CRICKETS, BUGS, FLEAS, WOODLICE,
GREEN FLY, ANTS, MOTHS.

Sold in packets, 3d., 6d., 1s., 2s. 6d., 58.; and in bulk of 3-Ib., 5-lb. and 7-Ib.

Also in tin dredgers to suit purchasers. Bellows filled 1s. each.
Sold by Chemists, Ironmongers, and Seedsmen in all towns
throughout the United Kingdom.

“Greater Fleas have little Fleas upon their legs to bite ’em,
And little Fleas have lesser Fleas, and so ad infinitum.”

Sole Proprietor: JOHN HARDEMAN,
‘Works: Lloyd St., Moulton St., Strangeways, MANCHESTER,
Retail Depot: 59, Bury New Road, MANCHESTER,

PoRTER’S

PATENT INVINCIBLE Crock

FOR PLANT POTS.

Keeps out worms
and all vermin.

They are made

f brass.
118
Saves time, aPy Do not in any way
expense, and interfere with
annoyance.

the ordinary
Fits any pot. drainage, nor
with the outlet of

surplus water.

Lasts for many
years.

Paka)

eb
‘on =l+I=!

Mr. RB. Giupert, Gardener to the Marquis or EXETER, writes—“I look upon your
‘brass Crock for keeping out worms as one of those simple and practical inventions we
stand so much in need of. I feel sure I am speaking the sentiments of all my brothers
«in arms when I say we owe you a debt of gratitude.”

Mr. E. 8. Dopwet1, Oxford, writes :—‘I think very highly of your Invincible
Crock ; there can be no doubt about its usefulness. For keeping worms and all other
vermin out of plant pots, nothing can be better.”

T. Brooxs, Esq., Barkly Hall, Leicester, writes :—‘‘ Please send me another 300
Invincible Crocks. They are splendid. Have long been wanted.”

They are sent
out in two sizes,
mixed.

The illustration
shows the small §
size, which
Suits small and
medium
sized pots.

a

The large size
suits all

larger pots.

o_o

30...1/- 100...3/- 1,000...25/- Post Free.

A, PORTER, STONE HOUSE, MAIDSTONE,

TESTIMONIALS AND PRESS OPINIONS FREE.

Telegrams: “HEAL, Sf!OUURBRIDGE”
ESTIMATES

For Heating Ferneries and every

Description of Buildings,

CATALOGUE (free)
OF BOILERS, PIPES, PIPE
CUTTERS, VALVES, COILS, CASES, &c.

W. Jones’ Treatise, ‘‘ Heating by Hot Water,” 120 pages, cloth, 2s.

DESIDERATUM

HEATING APPARATUS

ls NHOUSES B
OTHER iS rec mS
LE,PORTABLE; ECONOMICAL

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