Sree eceay SAR Ro ES tte Ni alerts Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002822074 Cornell University Library W721 1871 rowers manual, containing br wii 1924 0 mann THE ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, CONTAINING Hrief Descriptions of uptuards of Cight Bundred Species and Varieties of Orchidaceous Plants ; TOGETHER WITH NOTICES OF THEIR TIMES OF FLOWERING, AND MOST APPROVED MODES OF TREATMENT; ALSO, PLAIN AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS RELATING TO THE GENERAL CULTURE OF ORCHIDS; AND REMARKS ON THE HEAT, MOISTURE, SOIL, AND SEASONS OF GROWTH AND REST BEST SUITED TO THE SEVERAL SPECIES, BY BENJAMIN SAMUEL WILLIAMS, F.R.H.S., Author of “ Select Ferns and Lycopods,” “ Choice Stove and Greenhouse Flowering Plants,” “ Choice Stove and Greenhouse Ornamental-leaved Plants,” dc., &c. FOURTH EDITION, ENLARGED AND REVISED. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS, LONDON: PUBLISHED AT VICTORIA AND PARADISE NURSERIES, UPPER HOLLOWAY, N. 1871. LONDON; Faintep py Jas, Truscort anD Son, Suffolk Lane, City. CONTENTS. ADVICE TO ORCHID COLLECTORS ‘ GLaAzING ORCHID Houses . 3 . HEATING ORCHID HousEs . . : INTRODUCTION P . i F . INSECTS . ‘i ‘ “ 4 ‘ MODE OF PRODUCING Back GROWTHS MAKING ORCHID BASKETs . ORcHID Houses . . j a x ORCHIDS FOR THE GREENHOUSE AND COLD FRAME. PACKING ORCHIDS FOR CONVEYANCE TO EXHIBITIONS Puan OF OROHID House . ‘ . PROPAGATION OF ORCHIDS . ‘ : Potting EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS . i TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS ‘ Rot In ORCHIDS . i . ‘ a SPoT IN ORCHIDS. m . i . SELECT ORCHIDS AT PRESENT IN CULTIVATION SHADING F A ‘ P SEEDLING ORCHIDS i ‘ : TREATMENT OF TROPICAL Cecins ; DURING GROWTH . DURING TIME OF REST . oF PLANTS IN BLOOM . OF PLANTS PREVIOUSLY TO BEING TAKEN TO Bustte EXHIBITIONS . . OF NEWLY-IMPORTED PLANTS VENTILATION OF ORCHID HOUSES ‘ WATERING ORCHIDS . A a ‘i LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CYPRIPEDIUM CONCOLOR ‘ Lowit . ‘i . 4 VILLOSUM 7 a i DENDROBIUM JAMESIANUM . Nanopres Mrepus& ODONTOGLOSSUM GLORIOSUM. HALLII NEBULOSUM RADIATUM . ——————._ WARNERIANUM . OncIDIUM ROGERSII SPLENDIDUM 3 ‘ PHAJUS IRRORATUS ‘ PHALZENOPSIS AMETHYSTINA : a : VANDA C@RULESCENS . —-—— CATHCARTII ——— DENISONIANA . PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. Tue rapidity with which the third edition of this work has been disposed of, and the frequent assurances I have had from Amateur Orchid Growers, both abroad and at home, of the benefits they have derived from the use of it, have induced me to issue a new edition, in which many new and fine species and varieties, which have but recently been introduced into cultivation, are included. It is a source of great satisfaction to me to know that my efforts to assist amateurs in the cultivation of the interesting and extremely beautiful class of Orchidaceous plants have not only been crowned with success, but that they have also been the means of inducing many other plant-lovers to commence their study and cultivation. It is equally satisfactory to me to know, that the ‘‘ORcHID-GROWER’S Manuau’’ is not confined, as re- gards its sphere of usefulness, to our own country, for it now circulates freely amongst lovers of these charming plants residing in America, Australia, the viii PREFACE. East and West Indies and Brazil, as well as in various parts of the European Continent. In consequence of this encouragement, I have now endeavoured to increase its utility—first, by introducing a few illustrations, which have been kindly lent to me by the Editors of the Gardener's’ Chronicle and of the Florist and Pomologist; and also, more particularly, by carefully and thoroughly revising the text, which has, moreover, received many additions under the heads of both cultural treatment and descriptions of recently- introduced Orchids, of which I have now added all that appear to me to be worthy the attention of amateur growers. It should, however, be remembered, in making use of this little volume, that it does not profess to deal with Orchidaceous plants from a scientific point of view, but simply aims at supplying some popular descriptive notes of the most beautiful kinds, and at furnishing a record of such practical information in connection with their culture gleaned from my own experience, as has enabled me to attain to a very satisfactory degree of success in the growth and exhibition of these floral gems. B.S. WILLIAMS, VICTORIA AND PARADISE NURSERIES, Uprer HoLLoway, N., March, 1871, THE ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, INTRODUCTION. E. cultivation of Orchidaceous plants is no longer exclusively the privilege of the few, since their nature and requirements are far better understood than was the case a few years ago. This has arisen chiefly from two causes: firstly, from the useful information given us by those who have studied the plants in their native habitats ; and, secondly, from the close study and application by means of which cultivators at home have brought the results of the observations of travellers to bear in a practical manner on the culture of the plants when introduced into this country. It cannot be too strongly impressed upon the minds of all who send home plants of this order from foreign lands that every scrap of information respecting the climate, temperature, alti- tude, soil, &c., of the locality im which each species is found, is of the greatest importance to the cultivator no less than to the scientific observer. Not, indeed, that under cultivation we can strictly imitate the natural surroundings of each particular species or variety ; neither do I think in all cases B 2 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. that would be desirable, but the information would enable us to give the treatment most congenial to the requirements of each, so far as the means at our command would afford. The want of some such information has been a source of extreme vexation to many lovers of these plants in years gone by; indeed, had we received any account as to the physical and climatal surroundings of the many fine things found and collected by M. Warscewicz, and other travellers of that period, the collections of the present day would be able to boast of many fine species which have never since reached this country in a living state. The collections alluded to were, however, sent to this country in a careless manner, without the slightest indication of the conditions under which they had been growing; and, Orchidology being then in its infancy, they were nearly all killed by being subjected to intense heat, this being in those days considered the correct course to pursue with all Orchidaceous plants. Thus hundreds of beautiful species, which had been collected at great trouble and risk, and were purchased by eager amateurs at home, oftentimes at great cost, rapidly died out, simply from the prevailing ignorance of the localities in which they had been growing. To prevent a repetition of such disasters and disappoint- ments, the experience of those who have had the good fortune to see Orchids growing in a state of nature is of the greatest importance, giving as it does a basis of operations to any experiments which may be made. Strange as it may appear to some, and ridiculous as it has been pronounced by others, TI do not consider it is advisable to imitate strictly the natural conditions in which plants are sometimes found, because we have so many proofs that, as individual specimens, the culti- vated plants are frequently to be seen in greater perfection than those naturally grown; and it is only reasonable to infer INTRODUCTION. 3 that such would be the case with the majority of small-growing tropical plants, when we consider the struggle for existence which is constantly going on throughout the vegetable kingdom, and remember that they are subject to all the vicissitudes of the weather, whereas under cultivation extreme care and atten- tion are bestowed upon each individual plant, and no pains are spared to develop its beauties, and shield it from every harm. I admit that we should by all means take nature as our guide for the production of good plants, but it should be nature in her best garb only ; and then, looking as I do upon cultivation as a help to nature, the result can only be an improve- ment, if success has been attained in the object aimed at. Let me endeavour to render my meaning clear by a familiar example. I have frequently seen some of our indigenous ferns, such as Scolopendriums, Lastreas, &c., growing upon dry banks, stony ground, and old ruins, where they have pre- sented the appearance of short, stunted, ill-favoured plants, but still they were in a state of nature. Now, no one would recommend the cultivator to imitate that phase of nature. No; rather would the counsellor say, ‘‘ Go to that shady dell, with the limpid stream flowing through it; there you will see the rich green, fully developed, and graceful fronds of these gems in all their beauty.” This, then, I say is the phase of nature which cultivators should take as their guide, and endeavour to improve upon; and I submit that these con- siderations are strictly applicable to the plants we have taken under our especial cognizance in this volume. To exemplify this I will take an extract from a letter of Colonel Benson’s, one of the most acute observers and successful introducers of Orchids of the present day. He says: ‘‘ Dendrobium formosum does not appear to seek shady places for growth; in fact, as far as my knowledge goes, few Orchids do, beyond what is given by the trees when in leaf. During the months of BQ 4 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. February, March, and April, they must be exposed to an atmosphere of 110° in the shade. That the fresh-grown pseudobulbs are by this means reduced in size or shrivelled there can be no question; and in some of the mountain Orchids this reduction takes place to such an extent as to render it doubtful whether they are the same plants, when first seen at the end of rains.” Now take the case of these plants under culture ; the growing or rainy season past, their supply of water would be gradually diminished, and they would be exposed to the full effects of the sun with plenty of air, but only so long as they could withstand this treatment without shrivelling ; should this condition ensue, or should exhaustion from any other cause arise, the cultivator steps in, and by judicious treatment preserves the strength and consequently the health of the plant, whilst the plants in their native localities must bear the full power of the scorching sun, let even death be the result. Here, then, I say is a proof that art does in some instances assist nature. Nearly all epiphytal Orchids are subject to a period of rest, growth taking place during the rainy season, while their rest- ing period occurs during the dry season. Under cultivation, however, we have to alter considerably the circumstances, and make our dry season also the coolest, which is the reverse of what the plants experience naturally ; but this seems to be the most judicious plan we can adopt, for it would simply be mad- ness to endeavour to force our Orchids to make their growth during the winter months, and rest them during the summer. The best season of rest for the majority of Orchids is from about the beginning of November until the end of February. This long period of drought predisposes the plants to blossom, and also prevents them from making weak and sickly growths, which would undoubtedly be the case in our short, dark, and sunless days of winter. INTRODUCTION. 5 In this place, of course, rules respecting the growth and rest of Orchids can only be stated in general terms, the treatment in detail being given with the description of each particular genus. Then, again, there are certain species which are never entirely inactive throughout the whole year, amongst which may be named some of the Odontoglossums, Masde- vallias, and many others beside, whose home is in the Peru- vian Andes and other high mountain districts. It is often thought that as Orchidaceous plants are so extremely tenacious of life, the fact of their dying can only be the result of carelessness in their management; but it should be borne in mind that we have under the same roof plants from many different countries, whose natural habitats must vary immensely in all respects. Now, if a little thought is only bestowed upon this fact, it should rather be a matter of surprise how so many plants are successfully managed, than how many are lost. Epiphytal Orchids are found in tropical countries growing on the low grounds or plains, and are also met with as we ascend the mountains up to an elevation of 14,000 feet above the level of the sea. At this altitude, in New Grenada, Oncidium nubigenum flourishes. This is, I think, the greatest altitude at which these plants are recorded to have been found. Odontoglossum Alexandre and O. Bluntii occur at from 7,000 to 8,000 feet elevation, as does O. luteo-purpureum and its varieties, Masdevallias, Restrepias, and many others from Peru and New Grenada. At such elevations, as a matter of course, these plants are naturally subjected to a low temperature, an abundant supply of water, and a very moist atmosphere throughout the year, and consequently they cannot withstand a resting season or period of drought under cultivation ; whilst, if we turn to the Eastern Continent, we find such plants as Dendrobium infundibulum, D. chrysotocwm, D. Farmeri, Aerides 6 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, Lobbit, Saccolabium ampullaceum, S. giganteum, Cypripedium concolor, Cymbidium tigrinun, &ec., all growing at elevations varying from 2,000 to 7,000 feet, enjoying a copious supply of water during their period of growth, and subjected to a very severe resting season. Now, as these plants grow upon the stems and branches of the forest trees, or upon rocks, they must necessarily be exposed to all the breezes that blow. How reprehensible, then, is the practice of many growers of Orchids in trying to exclude air from their Orchid houses. For the well-being of Orchids, it should be remembered that a free circulation of air is absolutely necessary, as well as an abundance of light; but cold draughts, and also the burning effects of the sun’s rays, must be avoided, for it is not essen- tia] to their well-being to be hung up close to the glass, fully exposed to the blazing sun: indeed, the life of the plants would, under such circumstances, soon be sucked out of them if shading were not prepared. There are so-called observers of nature who blame the cultivator for many of his acts, and he has perhaps suffered more wrong at the hands of this class of persons upon the matter of shading, than upon any other. We are frequently told that in a state of nature such and such plants grow in most exposed situations—situations open to the full effects of a tropical sun, and that nothing can be more erroneous than the manner in which we use ‘“ blinds” for the purpose of keeping away the bright light of that lumi- nary. All I can say in answer to these objectors is that they totally lose sight of the fact that our plants are growing under glass, which has the power of rapidly burning up the leaves and disfiguring our plants for years, if not for life. A little practice would soon teach such persons how erroneous their ideas had been, and they would soon sink their so-called natural treatment, had they to be responsible for the effects produced by their advice. In leaving this subject, I must INTRODUCTION. 7 add that plant growers are keenly alive to the advantages of strong sunlight for their plants, but that they are too prac- tical to allow more than is advantageous to them under the artificial circumstances in which they are placed. Orchid cultivators, and indeed all lovers of Orchids, lost a good and valuable friend and instructor in the late Dr. Lindley; and in this particular branch of botany no one amongst us has been found competent to fill up the void. Professor Reichenbach, who was the friend of Dr. Lindley, is undoubtedly the first living authority in regard to the nomen- clature of Orchids, but the fact of his labours being carried on in Germany—no fault of his, but our misfortune—cannot but fail to be disadvantageous to English cultivators. We are bound to thank Professor Reichenbach most cordially, not only for the valuable information he imparts to us, but for the extremely kind and courteous manner in which he gives the desired information to any and all who seek it at his hands. Since the publication of the third edition of this book, horticulture has suffered a great loss by the death of Mr. James Veitch, to whose energy and spirit of enterprise we are indebted for the introduction of an immense number of our choicest plants, including not only those of the order to which these pages are specially devoted, but of others adapted for the decoration of the stove, the greenhouse, and the open garden. It is also a matter of extreme regret that his son, Mr. John Gould Veitch, should have been cut off by death also so soon after hig father; for, though but a young man, he had displayed brilliant talents, both as a keen observer and a judicious collector, and this combined with a sound practical knowledge of horticulture, so that he bid fair to sustain the family reputation. In bringing these introductory remarks to a close, I wish to record my deep sense of our obligations to the many 8 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. travellers and collectors who have added so largely to our knowledge of Orchids, and who have laboured so arduously and incessantly to enable us to enjoy the beauties of the choicest productions of the vegetable world, without the dangers and difficulties with which they had to contend. Many of them, alas! have fallen victims to the fatigues of the under- taking, and the pestilential climate, thus suffering martyrdom for the cause of horticulture. I allude specially to such men as the brothers Lobb, Hartweg, J. G. Veitch, Colonel Benson, O'Reilly, the Rev. C. Parish, Pearce, Bowmann, Weir, Hutton, Kramer, Porte, Wallis, Linden, Skinner, Hugh Low, Schlim, Warscewicz, and many others who might be named, did space permit. These were men who had in view the advancement of science, and the enriching of our collections with new plants and new forms; and their example might be followed with advantage by many of the latter day collectors, who, instead of sending home a few plants in good order, allowing the skill of the cultivator to grow and increase them at home, seem determined to exterminate the race of Orehids from their natural localities, without any one deriving benefit thereby ; for when such vast quantities are gathered, they arrive in this country in an almost putrid state, arising from overcrowding ; whilst, had a few dozens only been sent, and that with proper care in packing, they would in all probability have arrived in a living state. THE TREATMENT OF TROPICAL ORCHIDS. RCHIDS are divided into two sections, terrestrial and epiphytal. Those are termed Terrestrial that grow in earth; such are the genera Orchis, Phajus, Calanthe, Bletia, Cypripedium, Neottia, Goodyera, Epipactis, TREATMENT DURING GROWTH. 9 &e., which all draw their support directly from the ground. The Epiphytal Orchids inhabit trees and rocks, from which, however, they derive little or no nourishment, These are by far the most numerous and interesting. Some are found adhering to the stems and branches of living trees; some of them delight in elevated situations in lofty forests, while others grow upon low trees. Some occur on rocks and mountains, some on trees overhanging rivers, and some near dripping rocks—the latter, of course, requiring a particularly damp atmosphere to grow in. Those which are found in dense woods, where scarcely any sun can penetrate, require a shady moist atmosphere, whilst those found in more elevated situations do not need so much shade as the last. A know- ledge of the different habitats of the various species is essential to the careful grower, in order that he may, as far as his means permit, place them in circumstances similar to those in which they make their natural growth ; and it is, no doubt, to inattention, or want of information on this point, that the want of success in the culture of some Orchidaceous plants, by even the most successful of our cultivators, is to be attributed. TREATMENT DURING GROWTH. have in our Orchid houses plants from localities which vary much in every respect; some of them, moreover, produce their flowers early in spring, others in summer, and others again during the dull days of winter. It will therefore be readily understood that the period of starting into growth should vary also ; but as for convenience sake we rest our Orchids in winter, the majority will begin to BS 10 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. push up their young shoots as soon as the days lengthen and the sun gains increased power. This being the case, when the growing season commences, the temperature of the Hast Indian house—the house in which the greatest heat is main- tained, should be increased to 65° by night and 70° by day, while by sun-heat it may be allowed to range up to 75°. As the days lengthen, so the temperature may be permitted to increase; and during the months of May, June, July, and August, it should range from 70° to 75° by night, and from 75° to 80° by day, or by sun-heat to 85°, or even 90°, which will not do any harm, provided the plants are shaded from the direct rays of the sun. The house devoted to the Brazilian plants and to some of those from Mexico, should be heated to about 60° by night, and from 65° to 70° by day; and as the days lengthen the temperature may be allowed to inerease, so that during the months of May, June, July, and August the night heat may range from 65° to 70°, and by day from 70° to 85°. Great attention should, at the same time, be paid to the state of the atmosphere, as regards moisture. At all times of the year this is of much importance to the successful growth of the plants, for they derive the greater part of their subsistence from moisture in the air, so that wherever any plants are growing, the atmosphere should be well supplied with moisture: this is obtained by pouring water over the tables, walls, and paths of the house every morning and afternoon, thus causing a nice moist heat to rise, which is of great value whilst the plants are in a vigorous state of growth, especially as regards the Kast Indian Orchids, such as derides, Saccolabinm, Vunda, Phala- uapsis, Dendrobium, and many others requiring a high tempe- rature, with a considerable degree of moisture. The Brazilian Orchids, most of which come from a cooler climate, not so highly saturated with vapour, of course require less heat and TREATMENT DURING GROWTH. 11 moisture, but these should also have a considerable degree of warmth during their growing season. Of late years we have had so many additions to what are called Cool-house Orchids, that it is quite necessary there should be added another house specially for their cultivation, and which we may call the New Grenada and Peruvian house ; this will accommodate a great number of plants from various high mountain districts, which may be grown together under the same treatment. I do not recommend ordinary greenhouses for Orchids, for my belief is, that very few Orchid growers will uphold that treatment long; for although we are told by col- lectors that many of the species of epiphytal Orchids are found in localities where the temperature falls so low at times that the plants are frequently covered with a white frost, I do not think it expedient to subject them to such cool treatment in this country. The house I recommend for the Odontoglossums and other genera and species that come from similar regions, and, consequently, require the same treatment, is precisely the same as the others, only it must be kept at a lower temperature, say from 45° to 55° in winter, and from 50° to 65° in summer. This house should be well shaded from the sun, which will help to keep the heat down, as too much heat is dangerous for the cool Orchids. No fire heat will be required in summer except on cold or wet days and nights, the object of then having recourse to artificial heat, being to keep the house from getting too damp, damp- ness without warmth being very detrimental to plants of this order. There are but few Orchids that will do without heat, except those that come from North America and other cold climates, and these are treated on in a chapter by themselves in another part of this book. 12 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. TREATMENT DURING THE TIME OF REST. $ the time of starting into growth varies considerably with different kinds, so also, as a matter of course, will the season of rest, although with but few ex- ceptions it comes on during the autumn months. Rest, it has been elsewhere stated, is of great importance to Orchids, as well as to other things. No plant will continue long in good health without it. My practice is to give them a long season of rest, generally from November to the middle of February. During this time the temperature of the East Indian house should be regulated so as to keep it as nearly as possible at 60° by night and 65° by day ; but by sun-heat the temperature will rise a few degrees higher. Air must then be given so as to keep it about 65°; but a few degrees of solar warmth above this point will do no harm. A little air should be given on every fine day, in order to dry up the moisture ; but the air must be admitted so as to pass over the hot-water pipes, so that it may become warm on entering the house. In the case of those plants that come from the hotter parts of India, the temperature should not be allowed to go below 60°, The Brazilian house, which may also include all the species from the warmer parts of Mexico, should range from 50° to 55° by night, and from 55° to 60° by day; this should not be allowed to go below 50° at night. The New Grenadan, or cool-house, should not be allowed to get below about 45°. Rest is induced by lowering the temperature, and with- holding water. During this period the plants should only receive sufficient water to keep them from shrivelling. There are, however, some that will grow during the winter months, amongst which may be enumerated many species of Aerides, TREATMENT DURING THE TIME OF REST. 13 Vanda, Saccolabium, Phalaenopsis, Zygopetalum, and similar kinds. These will require water at the roots to keep them increasing, but care should be taken not to wet the young shoots, for if they get wet they will be very apt to rot. Those that are growing should be placed at the warmest end of the house. Some Orchids are deciduous, losing their leaves after they have finished their growth. To this class belong the species of Cyrtopodiiun, Barkeria, Cycnoches, Thunia alba, T. Ben- sonia, and some of the Dendrobiums, with Pleione maculata, P. Wallichiana, P. lagenaria, and many others. These should be always so placed that they may have as much light and sun during their season of rest as possible. This is the only way to ripen their pseudobulbs,. which causes them to grow stronger, and flower more freely. When at rest the pre- viously named kinds reqiire but very little water, but when those without pseudobulbs, e.9., Vanda, Angraecum, Aerides, Saccolabium, and Phalenopsis are at rest, they should never be allowed to get too dry at the roots; the moss about them should always be kept a little damp, for the stems and leaves are very apt to shrivel if kept too dry, and this often causes them to lose their bottom leaves. . Moreover, they require but a short season of rest. Those which are growing on blocks will require more water than those which are in pots or baskets, and they should be watered about twice or three times a-week if the weather be fine, just to keep them moist, but in dull weather they will not require it so often. Water should be poured over the paths and walks every fine morning, with a view to create a moist atmosphere, but the moisture in the house must be regulated according to the weather outside— a very important point to be attended to. If the weather be dull outside, the house inside must be kept rather dry. The glass and roof should always be perfectly clean, so that the 14 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, plants at this season may have full light and sun. It is my practice, as soon as the season of rest commences, to wash every piece of glass in the house, and also the woodwork. TREATMENT OF NEWLY-IMPORTED PLANTS. EN unpacked these should have every leaf and bulb sponged over, and all the decayed parts removed. There are many insects that harbour about them, such as the cockroach, and different kinds of scale, which are great pests. When clean they should be laid on dry moss and placed in some part of the Orchid house, where they are shaded from the sun. After a week or two, pot them, or put them on blocks. Water must be given very sparingly at first, as it is liable to rot them; too much of either light, heat, or moisture at first, is very injurious. The moss or peat should be gradually moistened, and when they begin to grow and make roots, they should be potted, or put on blocks or in baskets, but care should be taken not to have the pots too large, over-potting being dangerous. As soon as the plants begin to grow, those which come from the hotter parts of India should be put at the warmest end of the house, but they should not have too much moisture when first starting into growth: those which come from the more temperate regions should be kept in the coolest part of the house, and they should not be allowed to stand under drip, as this frequently rots the young shoots as soon as they appear. Such plants as the species of Vanda, Saccolabium, Aerides, Angracum, Phalaenopsis, &c., I place so that the heart or crown hangs downwards, in order that no water may lodge TREATMENT OF PLANTS IN BLOOM. 15 about them. They should hang for about a fortnight, and may afterwards be put on blocks or baskets with moss; but they must have but little water until they begin to grow, and make new roots, after which they may be treated in the same manner as established plants. This is much the safest mde of treating these valuable Orchids on their first arrival in this country. TREATMENT OF PLANTS IN BLOOM. HERE are many Orchids that may be removed when in flower to a much cooler house than that in which ae they are grown, or even to a warm sitting-room. The advantage of keeping the plants during their period of flowering in a cool and dry atmosphere, rather than, as is frequently the case, in a hot and moist house, is, that in the former case the flowers last much longer than they do when retained in the warmer and moister atmosphere. Perhaps there are not many cultivators who have studied this point more than myself, and I have never found the plants to be injured by this treatment. Some imagine that if they are put in a cool place they will suffer damage ; but this has not occurred in my experience. During the time they are in a room, the temperature should not be below 50° at night ; the room should be kept quite dry; and before they are removed from the stove they should be put at the coolest end of it; or if there are two houses, those that are in the hottest should be moved to the coolest for a few days before being taken into the room, and they should be allowed to get nearly dry, and should receive but very little water—only enough to keep the roots moist. 16 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. The flowers should not in any case be wetted. This is a very important point. The following are a few of those which I have tried in a sitting-room during the months of May, June, July, and August. I have kept Saccolabium guttatum in this way for five weeks, and Aerides affine for the same time. Aerides odoratum, A. roseum, and some of the Dendrobiums, as nobile and caerulescens, I have kept in a room for four or five weeks. Dendrobium moniliforme, D. macrophylinm, D. pulchellum, and D. Ruckeri, last a much longer time in bloom if they are kept cool than if in a high temperature. Various species of Brassia, Oncidium, Epidendrum, Odontoglossum, Cyrto- chilum, Trichopilia, and Muzillaria, with Lycaste Skinneri, L. aromatica, L. cruenta, Aspasia lunata, and all the Clattleyas, succeed well in a cool room or house, and their flowers keep fresh for a much longer time. I have kept Lelia majalis in a cool room for four or five weeks, and L. flava, under similar circumstances, will also keep a much longer time in blossom than in the warm house. When the flowers begin to fade, the plants should be removed to the stove, where they may be placed in the coolest end, with plenty of shade ; they should be kept in this position for about ten days, for if they are at once exposed to the sun they are very apt to become scorched. POTTING EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS. EN the season of rest is over, many Orchids will require re-potting, but in my practice I have not confined myself to that time only. No season can absolutely be determined on as the proper one for this opera- POTTING EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS. 17 tion. The months of February and March are very suitable for potting some of them—that is after the resting season. Those that do not require potting should be top-dressed with good fibrous peat and moss, the old soil being removed from the surface without breaking the roots of the plants. This operation affords the means of getting rid of many insects which harbour in the old soil. The pots should be thoroughly cleansed from the mould, moss, and dirt too often seen covering those in which Orchids are growing. Previously to potting the plants they should not receive any water for four or five days. Some species should be potted at a somewhat later period, viz., just as they begin to grow. All the species of Phajus, Calanthe, Dendrobium, Stanhopea, Cyrtopodium, Brassia, Miltonia, Sobralia, Bletia, Oneidium, and many others, require this treatment; whilst those of Lelia, Cattleya, Saccolabium, Aerides, Vanda, and similar plants, should be potted just before the commencement of their growing season. The chief point to be attended to in all potting is that the pots should be well drained, the best material for drainage being potsherds or charcoal. Before potting, be particular to have the pots perfectly clean and dry, inside and out, and the broken potsherds should be washed. After this is done, select a pot in accordance with the size of the plant, but do not give too much pot room. Some plants require shifting once a year, while it may not be necessary to shift others oftener than once in two or three years; but if a plant becomes sickly or soddened with wet, the best way to bring it back into a healthy state is to turn it out of the pot or basket, and wash the roots carefully with some clean tepid water, cutting off such of them as are dead; and then to re-pot it, not giving it much water till it begins to make fresh roots. The best pots are those in ordinary use. Some 18 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, employ slate pots, but they are not, in my opinion, so good for Orchids as those made of clay. In preparing the pots for large plants a small pot should be turned upside down in the bottom of the larger one, which should then be filled in with potsherds or charcoal broken up into pieces about two inches square for large plants—smaller plants not having the pieces so large ; then introduce potsherds till within three or four inches of the rim, and afterwards put on a layer of moss to prevent the peat from impeding the drainage, and to allow the water to pass off quickly, This is of great importance, for if not attended to, the water will become stagnant, and the soil sodden, which is fatal to the health of the plant. The grand point to be observed in the successful culture of Orchids, as well as most other plants, is good drainage ; without that it is hopeless to try to keep the plants long in a healthy condition. The best material for potting the different kinds of Epiphytes in, is good rough fibrous peat and sphagnum moss; after the layer of moss is applied, fill up the pot with peat and live sphagnum moss mixed together, and bear in mind not to press the soil too close, for I consider too firm potting to be very injurious. The peat should be broken into lumps about the size of a hen’s ege; and I always use broken potsherds or charcoal mixed with the peat. The plant should be set so as to be two or three inches above the rim of the pot, taking care to have the base of all the pseudobulbs above the soil; then put some peat and moss on the top of the roots so as to cover them, employing a few small pegs to keep the soil firmly on the pot. After the plants are potted fix a stick in the centre of each, to keep it firm. In shifting, carefully shake off all the old soil without injuring the roots. After potting be careful not to give too much water at first; but when the plants begin to make fresh roots they may have a good POTTING TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS. 19 supply. The best material for those in baskets is sphagnum and broken potsherds. The basket should suit the size of the plant; it should not be too large, for it will not last more than two or three years if made of wood, by which time, pro- bably, the plant will require shifting into a larger one. There should be placed first a layer of moss at the bottom of the basket, then a few potsherds, and then the whole filled up with moss and potsherds mixed. Take the plants carefully out of the old basket, without breaking the roots, remove all the old moss, place the plant on the new material, about level with the top of the basket, fix a stick in the centre, to keep it firm, cover the roots neatly, and finish off by giving a gentle watering. Those plants that require wood to grow upon should have live moss attached to the blocks, if by experience they are found to require it; some, however, do better on bare blocks, but they need more frequent waterings, as they are then almost entirely dependent on what is obtained from the atmosphere. In fastening them firmly on the blocks, use copper or gal- vanized iron nails, which are to be driven into the block, and then, with copper wire, secure the plants firmly to the wood. As soon as they make fresh roots they will cling to the block, and the wire may be taken away. POTTING TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS. HESE require a stronger compost than the epiphytal kinds, but they do not need so much drainage. They should be potted just when they begin to grow, after the resting season. The compost I prefer to use for them is turfy loam chopped into pieces about the size of a 20 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. walnut, leaf mould or peat, and a little rotten cow or horse- dung; these should be all mixed well together. The plants require good-sized pots; put about two inches of drainage at the bottom, on that a layer of moss, then some rough peat, and finish with the compost just mentioned, on which place the plant so as to be about an inch below the rim of the pot, and then fill in with the compost. Water sparingly at first, but by the time the young growths are some six inches high they may have a good supply. MODE OF PRODUCING BACK GROWTHS. ERE are many of our Orchids that grow on year after year, and yet produce only one flowering bulb annually ; but some of the kinds, if the plants are cut, will produce back shoots or breaks, increasing the number of blooming growths, and thus soon make fine speci- mens. This is the way to produce such plants as are seen every year at the London and provincial exhibitions. Some plants, such as Cattleyas, may be more readily treated in this way than others. The operation is performed in this way :— Take a plant that has back bulbs, some three or four it may be; cut the plant in two between the bulbs, not otherwise disturbing it, but let the bulbs remain in the same place. The best time to cut all Orchids is during their season of rest, or just as they are beginning to grow. All other Orchids that have pseudobulbs may be treated in the same way, if it be desirable to increase them; but bear in mind that no Orchid should be cut except when in vigorous health. WATERING ORCHIDS. 21 WATERING ORCHIDS. HIS should be done with great care, especially in the case of plants just starting into growth, for if watered too profusely, the young shoots are apt to be affected by the moisture of the house, and become liable to what is termed damping off. Whilst, therefore, the shoots are young, only enough water should be given to keep the moss or peat moist in which the plants are growing. As they advance in growth, more may be given; and when the pseudobulbs are about half grown, they may have a good supply at the roots. This, however, will greatly depend upon how the plants are potted: if potted according to the direc- tions laid down in this book the water will pass away quickly, which is very essential to the well-being of the plants. I have known Orchid growers try many kinds of potting material, but have never seen any to succeed better than rough fibrous peat and sphagnum moss, and by using these two materials as recommended, there is less liability of injury. Some growers use fine soil, mixed with sand and moss: this I consider bad for epiphytal Orchids, because it soon gets soddened round the roots—a condition exceedingly injurious to this class of plants, which are not subjects to be tampered with. When plants are potted in this fine soil they require less water, and will also need the soil to be frequently renewed, but this system I entirely set myself against. My practice is to shut up the Orchid house in the spring of the year about three o’clock ; and in May, June, July, August, and September, I shut it up about an hour later, when the heat of the sun is on the decline. I then usually give a gentle syringing with water as nearly as may be of the same 22 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. temperature as that of the house. In fine weather, the temperature from sun heat will rise frequently as high as 95°, or even more; but I have never observed any injury to befall the plants in consequence of this heat, so long as the house was saturated with moisture. The house should be dried up once a day, if possible, by means of ventilation. In syringing be careful not to wet the young shoots too much. The syringe should be furnished with a fine rose, so as to cause the water to fall on the plants in imitation of a gentle shower of small rain; but this syringing should only be done after a hot sunny day, and should never be carried to excess, for I have seen the ill effects of that practice with many Orchid growers. The practice is indeed very dangerous, and growers often wonder at their plants not looking so well, when it is entirely due to over-syringing. Nevertheless water, judiciously applied, is one of the most important items in the culture of these valuable plants. Those plants which are growing on blocks of wood should be syringed twice a day in the summer time ; and I also find it beneficial, during the growing season, to take the blocks down about twice or three times in a week, and dip them in water till the wood and moss are thoroughly soaked. Plants in baskets should likewise be taken down and examined, and if they are dry, they should also be soaked in the water. This is a good mode of getting rid of many hurtful insects that harbour in the moss, such as the wood- louse and the cockroach, which, when the moss is plunged and kept for awhile under water, will come to the top, and then may be easily killed. Rain or pond water is the best, but if this cannot be obtained, and water from a spring must be used, it should be well exposed to the influence of the atmosphere before using ; it should also be allowed to stand in the house for a con- siderable time, previously to its being required for the plants, PROPAGATION OF ORCHIDS. 23 so that it may become warmed to about the same temperature as the atmosphere in which it is to be used. Slate cisterns, for collecting the rain-water which falls on the roof, are very important. Cisterns on each side over the hot-water pipes keep the water at the same temperature as that of the house. If there is not room for the slate cistern on the pipes, have one sunk in the middle of the house. Cement tanks under the centre table answer the same pur- pose, and should have a hot-water pipe run through them, so as to make the water of the same temperature as the house, which is very essential for the growth of the plants. PROPAGATION OF ORCHIDS. HERE are different modes of propagating the various kinds of Orchids. Some are easily increased by dividing them into pieces, or by cutting the old pseudobulbs from the plants after the latter have done bloom- ing: such plants as Dendrobiums are increased in this way. The best time for dividing the plants is just as they begin to grow, or when they are at rest; they should be cut through with a sharp knife between the pseudobulbs, being careful not to harm the roots; and each piece should have some roots attached to it. After they are cut through, they should be put into some shady part of the house, without receiving much water at the roots till they have begun to grow and make fresh ones; then they may be parted, potted, and have the regular supply. Dendrobium nobile, D. Pierardi, D. pul- chellum, D. macrophyllum, D. Devonianum, D. Falconeri, D. Wardianum, and sorts of similar habit, are easily propagated. 24 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. This is effected by bending the old pseudobulbs round the basket or pots in which they are growing, or by cutting the old flowering bulbs away from the plant, and laying them on some damp moss in a shady and warm part of the house, with a good supply of moisture. In either case, they will break and make roots and new shoots, after which they may be potted or put in baskets. Such kinds as D. Jenhinsti, D. aggregatum, D. formosum, D. speciosum, D. densiflorum, and similar grow- ing sorts, are increased by simply dividing the plants. The species of dAcrides, Vanda, Angracum, Saccolabium, Camarotis, Renanthera, and similar growing kinds, are all propagated by cutting the tops off the plant just below the first root, or by taking the young growths from the bottom of the plant. After they have formed roots they should be cut off with a sharp kmife, and afterwards put on blocks or in baskets with some sphagnum moss, and kept in a warm and damp part of the house, without receiving much water till they have begun to grow, when they may have the usual supply. Odontoglossums, Oncidiums, Zygopetalums, Sobralias, Trichopilias, Stanhopeas, Schomburgkias, Peristerias, Mor- modes, Miltonias, Lycastes, Leptotes, Lelias, Guleandras, Epidendruns, Cyrtopodiums, — Cyrtochilians, — Cymbidiums, Cycnoches, Coryanthes, Calogynes, Cattleyas, Culanthes, Brassias, Bletias, and Barkerias, are all propagated by dividing them into pieces, each having a portion of roots attached to it, and a young bulb or growing point. Thunia alba and T. Bensoni@ are very easily increased. The best way is to cut the old pseudobulbs off after the young ones have begun to flower, that is, just before the plant has made its growth. The pseudobulbs should be cut into pieces about six inches long, and then put into a pot in some silver sand, with a bell-glass over them, till they have struck root; they should then be potted in some fibrous peat and moss, SEEDLING ORCHIDS. 25 and should have good drainage and a liberal supply of water in the growing season. Some of the E’pidendrums, such as EF. cinnabarinum and E. crassifolium, which form plants on the tops of the old flower stalks, are easily propagated ; they should be left till they have made their growth, and then be cut off and potted, when they will soon make good plants. Some Dendrobiums will also form plants on the tops of the old pseudobulbs, and they should be treated in the same way. SEEDLING ORCHIDS. fJEW Orchids have as yet been raised from seed in M| this country ; indeed, until within the last few years, cultivators had not been fortunate in raising Orchids from seed at all; but although at the present time the number is not great, we are nevertheless every day becoming more familiar with seedling varieties and hybrids which have been raised in English gardens. To Mr. Dominy is due the credit of producing some very beautiful hybrid forms of this order, which are now in cultivation. Several others are now also exercising their talents in the same direc- tion, and there is unquestionably a large field open for all who take an interest in hybridising this singular and beau- tiful tribe of plants. Some time ago a gentleman said to me that he should like to be in a country where the Orchids grew in a wild state, in order that he might have a chance of hybridising them; his ideas were, that something really good might be obtained, and no doubt he was right, for considering how seldom it is that we flower two Orchids alike, it may be concluded that many of our imported Orchids are c 26 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. natural hybrids or seminal variations. I have seen at least two dozen varieties of Cattleya Mossia in bloom at one time; some had white petals and rich crimson lip, others rose- coloured petals and yellow lip, and each differed more or less from the others. In fact, nearly all species of Orchids have varieties. Four flowers taken from four different plants of Phalenopsis amabilis were brought me by a gentleman, and no two of them were exactly alike. The same may be said of Phalenopsis Schilleriana. I have seen many plants of this in bloom, varying much in the colour of the flower and in the shape and markings of the leaf; all were, however, hand- some. In a wild state, varieties appear to be unlimited, crossed and recrossed, as they doubtless are, by insects. Who, for instance, would have thought, a few years ago, of receiving so splendid an importation as Phalenopsis Schilleriana, beautiful not only in blossom but in foliage? And we are told there exists a still finer species, with scarlet flowers! Let us hope it will soon be added to our collections; what a contrast it would make with the white and mauve coloured kinds now in cultivation! Mr. Dominy has succeeded in raising some pretty varieties of Cattleya, Calanthe, Cypripedium, Goodyera, &e. I trust he may persevere in the good work, and produce something new in other genera. Many kinds seed freely if the flowers are set, producing many seeds in a pod. The seed, having been gathered as soon as ripe, should be sown when ripe ; but it requires great care, as it is not so easy to raise as that of many other kinds of plants. Some of the kinds are a long time in germinating ; I have known Orchid seeds to lie twelve months before they made their appearance. It is, however, highly interesting to watch their gradual de- velopment, from the tiny germ to the first small pseudobulbs, and so on up to the flowering state. The best place to sow the seed is on the top of an Orchid pot, where the seeds wil SEEDLING ORCHIDS. 27 not get disturbed, and where the peat or moss is in a rough state; do not cover the seed, but give a little water with a fine-rosed pot, just to settle it. The rough blocks of wood on which another plant is growing also afford a capital situation to sow upon, but the surface should always be kept a little moist. After germination, those which were sown on pots should be placed in small pots quite close to the inside edge, and when the plants get strong enough, they may be potted singly in the material already recommended, or be placed on blocks. In potting and taking them up, care must be taken not to break the roots. One of the surest roads to success in hybridising is to select only fine species or varieties for experiment. It is possible, indeed, there may exist in a flower of inferior merit some quality which would induce the operator to undertake its improvement, or endeavour to transfer the desired feature to some more favoured kind. It is, therefore, highly desirable that many should begin to raise hybrids, not only with the view of obtaining finer flowers than we already possess— though that would be a real acquisition ; but for the additional purpose of raising sorts that might succeed in cooler houses. Odontoglossum grande and many others, for instance, do better in a cool house than in a warm one; how desirable to com- municate this quality to others. Cypripedium insigne will thrive well in a greenhouse; if, then, we could cross this with some of the other kinds, such as C. superbiens, C. hirsutissimum, C. Lowit, or C. barbatum superbum, something good might be the result. There are also several hardy Cypripediums, such as C, macranthum, C. pubescens, and C, spectabile, which might be induced to play an important part in the operation. Since these remarks were first published, several hybrid Cypripediwms have flowered in the establish- ment of Messrs. Veitch, and have fully borne out my pre- o 2 28 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. dictions. Phajus grandifolius and P. Wallichii are likewise two noble plants for winter decoration, which do well in a warm greenhouse, and may probably be the means of pro- ducing some very ornamental plants, if crossed with various Calunthes. I am glad to be able to state that since the publication of the second edition of this A/unual, numerous Orchid growers have been turning their attention to this sub- ject, and many of them have succeeded in raising seedlings, which I trust may produce something startling before long. Lycastes thrive admirably in a cool-house; as, for instance, L. Skinneri, which is one of the finest. Many splendid varieties of this are now cultivated. This plant is reported in the Gardeners’ Chronicle to have been kept in a room in flower for seven weeks—a fact which shows what might be done-with these fine plants in a cool-house. I myself have had plants of this Lycaste all the winter in a greenhouse, where they have flowered in great abundance, as many as from thirty to fifty blossoms being open at one time. Indeed, I exhibited a plant of it at one of the Regent’s Park spring shows with as many blossoms on it as I have just mentioned, on which occasion a medal was awarded for its magnificent flowers and colour. Particular care must be taken, however, to keep the flowers dry when in a cool-house, or else they are apt to become spotted. ‘* Lycaste Skinnert,” says the Gardeners’ Chronicle, ‘“ seems about to have as great a future as the Tulip. Already some- thing like a dozen varieties of colour are known among its exquisitely beautiful flowers, and we can entertain no doubt that it will break into plenty more, especially if recourse is had to hybridising. From deep rose to a skin only less white than the Hawthorn we have a complete set of transitions, and this is a plant conspicuous for its fine broad foliage, and glo- rious in its ample floral garments.” But since this paragraph SEEDLING ORCHIDS. 29 was written, the cultivation of this beautiful winter flowering plant has largely increased, and the varieties have become very numerous. It is not, however, wholly on account of its disposition to reward us by an endless variety of colour, and perhaps form, that we wish to draw attention to Lycaste Skinneri, but because of all tropical Orchids it is one of the hardiest in constitution and most easy to cultivate. This has been very decisively shown by some experiments of the late Mr. Skinner, to whose untiring energy, we English owe this and many other treasures. In a note received from him, he writes as follows :— ‘On the 2nd February, 1861, I received from Mr. Veitch a fine specimen with seven flower spikes all out, and took it to Hillingdon Cottage, placed it on the drawing-room table in an ornamental pot, and gave it every three days or so about four tablespoonfuls of water, occasionally wiping the leaves with a wet sponge when the dust got on them. There this plant stood throughout the severe weather we had—a fire in the room only during the afternoons and evenings, and on some days none at all. It never showed the least decay until the 16th of May, when it was for some purpose or other put into the greenhouse, and our gardener sprinkled water over it along with the other plants. Next morning I was shocked to see the flowers all with brown spots and withering. On the 18th May I took it back to Mr. Veitch, still in full bloom (seven spikes), to bear testimony to its condition, and it lasted, though then much injured, a week on the stand by the seed-room in their place. This experiment induced me to try again. On the 18th De- cember, 1861, I brought down to this place two fine plants of the Lycaste, and two plants of Barkeria Skinneri, both in full bloom. Having been absent (with the exception of three days in January) since, I have had no control over them, but my 30 ORCHID-GROWER’ S MANUAL. sister followed the same plan as at Hillingdon, only with the Barkerias, which are attached to blocks, dipping the whole block into water for a few minutes every four or five days, according as we have much or little sun; and as the plants are now before me, I give you their condition. One of the Bar- kerias is as perfect as the day I brought it here ; the other has all gone off within the last few days. One Lycaste is perfect, and as beautiful as the day I brought it here; the other has lost one flower, I fear, by some accident, the other flower still good, but evidently a little ‘shady ;’ this plant has two flower stems coming on, and would bloom in a fortnight if we pushed them by more moisture. I expect frost has got on it after watering, for it stands close to the window in the drawing- room, and this room, though smaller, is similarly treated to the one at Hillingdon—fires in the afternoon and evenings, with a southern aspect. What a treat to me is this, and I think you should know it, for people have said—‘I love Orchids, but hate the stew-pans one has to view them in.’ “Tt is clear that for Lycastes and Barkerias ‘ stew-pans’ may be dispensed with. Plenty of Orchids like these are to be found in our gardens, brought from the Highlands of Mexico and from Central America. It is also probable that mountain species of India, such as the delicious Calogynes, will thrive under the same treatment, and, if so, one more class of enjoyments is provided for the lovers of flowers. “Surely this is news worth telegraphing through the whole horticultural world! What a charm for a sick-room! What a pet for the poor invalid who has nothing to love except her flowers! Imagine the pleasure of watching the buds as they form, visibly enlarging from day to day, until they reach the slow unfolding of the perfect blossom, and then the delight at seeing it some morning, stimulated by even a winter’s sun, suddenly throwing back its green cloak, and displaying the ORCHID HOUSES. 81 wondrous beauty of its richly tinted lining. It is almost worth being ill to enjoy such a scene.” Encouragement like this must surely add new life and vigour to Orchid growing. I hope, therefore, that many may be induced to try their skill. The great secret is robust growth in summer, when there is plenty of heat in the greenhouses ; but for further and particular instruction, see the chapter on the cultivation of the Lycaste, and also that on the treatment of plants in flower. ORCHID HOUSES. T is not absolutely necessary to build a house for the cultivation of Orchids, for many people grow them most luxuriantly in their pine stoves, and in houses principally devoted to flowering and ornamental-leaved plants ; and where only a few plants exist, such a plan is by no means objectionable, but where a large collection is to be cared for, it is quite essential that a house be specially set apart for them, and in my opinion the best houses are those with span roofs facing east and west. A ground plan and end section of such a house is here given. The structure should not be more than ten or eleven feet high in the centre, seventeen or eighteen feet wide, and about a hundred feet long, with two glass divisions to separate it into three houses—one for plants that come from the East Indies, which ought to be next the boiler, the second one for those that come from Brazil and part of Mexico, and the third for New Grenada and Peruvian species. There should be upright sashes on both sides of the house, with glass from twelve to fifteen inches high, but not made to open. Many 32 ORCHID=-GROWER’S MANUAL. 1 Tey ft felelele “SL loxerere) ; Z IPSs _ ir iT ST 1] | jaa J _—___ Nes a —S ORCHID HOUSES. 33 Orchid growers object to side sashes, and generally recommend brickwork up to the spring of the roof: but that is not, in my opinion, the best plan; on the contrary, I would advise any one about to build an Orchid house to have upright sashes on both sides and at each end. From experience I have found that Orchids do best with abundance of light, which is the only way to get good strong ripe pseudobulbs fit for flowering, Small houses are best. In different parts of the country there exist large houses, but in no instance have I seen plants grow- ing well in them ; such houses take a great fire to keep them at the proper night temperature, and after all, they seem ill adapted to the wants of the plants, I would advise all large Orchid houses to be pulled down or turned to other purposes, and their places to be occupied by small ones; the expense of the operation would soon be saved in the reduction that would take place in the cost of pipe and fuel. I have used single roofs for twenty-seven years, and have always found them to answer well, but of late the double-roofed houses have come into use with many Orchid growers; but in no one instance has any improvement in the health of the plants been visible to me, indeed the contrary rather; and unless I can see that they are a decided improvement I shall advise all young growers to keep to the single roof. I never have believed in the double-roofed house, and there must be a real improvement before I recommend what is not likely to surpass the single roof. It appears strange to me to see growers of these valu- able plants jump at such novelties before they have been well tried on a small scale by some one who understands the treatment of this race of plants. Since the above remarks upon double-roofed houses appeared in the third edition of this work, many of the strongest advocates of the system have taken off the extra roofs, and reverted to the old plan, having found by experi- c 3 34 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. ence (and that dearly bought in some cases) that the above remarks are perfectly correct. The houses at this place are of the size recommended above, and no Orchid houses could answer better. They have been built several years, and are well worth inspection. They afford plenty of room for the plants to show themselves to advantage, and they have likewise roomy paths, which is a great recommendation ; for nothing is more unpleasant than not being able to inspect the plants with comfort. The inside dimensions of my houses are forty-five feet long, eleven feet high in the centre, and eighteen feet in width ; there is a table six feet wide up the centre, and a path all round three feet wide; there are side-tables three feet wide, covered with slate. The floor is concreted, three inches thick, and then covered with Portland cement, which forms a capital surface. The whole is heated by hot water, distributed in four rows of four- inch pipes on each side, and having valves to stop or turn on the water as required. On both sides of the Orchid house are upright sashes, as recommended above. It is glazed in the manner recommended in the chapter on glazing, and it has three ventilators on each side in the brickwork, close to the hot-water pipes, and one at the end over the doorway. There are four small top-sashes, two on either side, which open with hinges, and are furnished with ropes inside to draw them up and down, and these I find very desirable to let out the over-heated air. These ventilators have been in use for several years, and are found very useful; for if cold wind blows from the one side the other can be opened, so that the chilly air does not blow on the plants, which is very injurious. Complaints have been frequently raised, especially by ladies, against Orchids and Orchid houses, on account of the excessive heat and moisture attending them, and which quite precludes ORCHID HOUSES. 85 them from enjoying their beautiful flowers. This complaint, however, has now lost much of its force, because we grow Orchids much cooler; yet in the case of the East Indian house there is still much truth in it. The evil is one, nevertheless, which can easily be remedied. To that end a small house should be erected, or a small division at the end of the Orchid houses assigned to Orchids in bloom, or a portion of the conservatory should be enclosed. Here, with some ferns and a few other ornamental-leaved plants as a background, the blooming Orchids should be placed, and here they may be enjoyed to the full, since the place may be kept quite cool, so that while the most delicate constitution will receive no injury, the blossoms will remain much longer in perfection. This system is adopted by many cultivators of Orchids, and is a source of great pleasure to them. In this way the beauties of such plants as Calanthe vestita, Limatodes rosea, the Pleiones and plants like them, which are destitute of leaves at the time of flowering, is greatly enhanced, as the ferns and other plants can be made to hide the deficiency; and in summer the Orchids in flower will retain their full beauty for a much longer time, if kept well shaded and cool.. This system of decoration is well carried out by Mr. Hubbersty, gardener to O. Wrigley, Esq., of Bury. A long span-roofed house, which forms an entrance to the other houses, is devoted to this purpose ; it has a central path, with a table on each side, and the blooming Orchids being brought here and inter- mixed with ferns, flowering and ornamental-leaved Begonias, Poinsettias, Euphorbias, and many other plants, according to the season, the effect produced is charming. 36 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. HEATING ORCHID HOUSES. MOR effecting this, nothing is better than a hot-water apparatus. I recommend four-inch pipes, and to put in plenty of piping rather than too little. There is nothing saved by economy of that kind, and it is far better to spend a little more money for material at first, than have to make additions afterwards. By having plenty of pipe a less rapid combustion is required, which is better for the plants, and the expense is saved in fuel in a very short time. I should, therefore, advise four rows of pipes for the East Indian house, three for the Brazilian, and two for the house devoted to those species from New Grenada, Peru, and some parts of Mexico; by having four pipes for the plants requiring most heat, one does not require to drive the fire so much on a frosty night. I never raise steam from the pipes; for plenty of moisture can be obtained without it, by pouring water on the tables and paths, which I consider much better than so much steam discharged on the plants direct from rusty pipes. At the same time, I do not by any means condemn the use of evaporating troughs during the summer months, for these will diffuse throughout the house a most congenial moisture, highly beneficial to the growth of these plants, and the effects of which are very different to that of scalding steam. The boiler should be placed outside of the house, and not set underneath, which is a very bad system. I remember going to see a collection of Orchids where the boiler was so situated. The gentleman said he had put it there to economise heat, and the plants were growing very finely at the time. Upon my remarking that I should be afraid of smoke getting HEATING ORCHID HOUSES. 37 into the house; he replied, ‘‘ There is no fear of that, for I have got the boiler well covered over.” Only a few months afterwards I went to see the same collection, and found my fears were realised; the smoke had got into the house, and had spoilt many of the plants. This is merely mentioned to show the ill effects of a boiler being set so that smoke can get into the house. When outside, there is no fear of such a disaster. Hot water boilers are now made of shapes and patterns without end, and as most cultivators have some predilection in this matter, I leave them to make their own selection. There are, however, many things to be thought of before deciding this question. If the locality is such as to render it impracticable to dig far down into the ground before reaching water, or to prevent a drain being put below the boiler, then the upright form of boiler is neither suitable nor safe; for in cases of flood, during winter, the water may rise and put out the fire, unless the stoke-hole is made water-tight, which may be a trouble- some and expensive process. I would, however, by no means depreciate these boilers. Then we have cannon boilers, tubular boilers, common saddle boilers, terminal saddle boilers, tubular arched saddle boilers, double L saddle boilers, improved tubular boilers, convolute boilers, the duplex compensating boiler, and boilers that require no setting, the makers of all being able to give what are to them satisfactory reasons why the particular form they adopt is the best. That we have this diversity amongst boilers is no doubt a great advantage, for one that may work admirably in one place, may not, through some peculiarity of place or position, be so thoroughly satisfactory in another. Moreover, the fuel most readily available in one place, and which may suit one class of boiler, may not be so readily obtained in another place, and therefore those who are so situated will naturally have recourse to a boiler which will consume the fuel which they can obtain for heating it. 83 ORCHID-GROWER S MANUAL. VENTILATION OF ORCHID HOUSES. HIS is of great importance ; for if cold air is allowed to pass among the plants they will not thrive, and all care which has previously been bestowed on them will be in vain. Means of ventilation should therefore be provided near the ground, close to the hot-water pipes, in order that the air may be warmed on entering the house; and also by underground pipes, so that in cold weather a current of pure air may be maintained. This can be accom- plished by laying drain-pipes from the outside under the foundation to the inside under the hot-water pipes, so that the air is warmed immediately upon entering the house by passing over the heated surface. In the houses here, there are three ventilators in the brickwork opposite the pipes on each side to each house. The ventilating shutters are made of wood, about two feet long, and one foot wide; sliding slate ventilators answer perhaps better. There should be one glass ventilator at the south end, near the roof, and one at the north end. We have also four small ventilators near the top of the roof, two on each side, on hinges, opening from the inside with cords, to let out the top-heat, which we have found very essential to the well-being of the plants. SHADING. VERY Orchid house requires to be shaded, although we are often told the practice is wrong; but as the plants would soen be destroyed if the burning rays of the sun were allowed to shine upon them when grown GLAZING ORCHID HOUSES. 89 under glass, the use of blinds in summer is quite necessary to successful cultivation. It is possible, however, to carry shading to excess; all such excesses must, however, be stu- diously avoided. The best shading material is canvas. There should be blinds on each side, with a strong lath at the top to nail the canvas to, and a roller at the bottom. The canvas must be nailed to the roller, but care should be taken in doing this that the awning will roll up regularly from bottom to top. I never allow the canvas to be down except when the sun is powerful, for I find that too much shade is injurious to most kinds of Orchids. The awning will also be useful in the winter season for covering the house during a frosty night, being a great protection to those plants that are near the glass. It is advisable to have a covering on the top of the house for the protection of the canvas when rolled up, in order to keep it from wet. GLAZING ORCHID HOUSES. =HE laps in the houses already referred to are very B| close; the squares of glass in the roof are two feet six inches long by nine inches in breadth; those in the upright sashes at the sides are fourteen inches long by nine inches wide. Twenty-one oz. glass is best, not being easily broken. I remember seeing an Orchid house much injured after a hail storm, a large portion of its valuable contents being nearly spoiled. The glass used in this instance was only sixteen oz., whereas, if it had been twenty-one oz., it would most likely have withstood the storm. I therefore recommend twenty-one oz. glass, or even a heavier kind, as 40 ORCHID-GROWER'S MANUAL. not being likely to get broken by cleaning or otherwise. Too large squares are bad, as they are apt to get broken by frost. The upright glass at the sides ought to be of the size stated above, to correspond with that in the roof and also in the ends and the door. The sash bars should have a small groove down them to carry the condensed moisture to the bottom, in order to prevent it from dripping on to the plants; even small pieces of zine nailed to the bars serve to form a sort of gutter to carry off this moisture, and thus prevent drip. TREATMENT OF PLANTS PREVIOUSLY TO BEING TAKEN TO PUBLIC EXHIBITIONS. ERE are many cultivators of Orchids who object to send their plants to a public exhibition solely because they are afraid that they will receive injury; but these fears are quite groundless if a moderate degree of care is exercised. Having myself been an exhibitor of these plants for twenty-six years, I have had ample oppor- tunity to form a practical opinion, and to the best of my belief I never had a plant injured by exposure at a flower show. That some valuable Orchids have been damaged I know full well, but the fault has been in the want of due care in their preparation. It is my practice to move the plants to a cool dry house or room for a few days previous to the show. If the plants are growing in the hottest house, I move them to the cooler one. During this time they should be allowed only just enough water to keep them slightly moist. When it is probable that the plants will come into blossom earlier than is wished, the time of flowering may be successfully retarded by taking them PACKING ORCHIDS FOR CONVEYANCE TO EXHIBITIONS. 41 to a cooler part of the house, or even putting them in a greenhouse, keeping them slightly shaded during the brightest part of the day. Dendrobiwms are very easily thus retarded, if they are wanted to bloom later in the season. Dendrobium nobile, D. pulchellum, D. macrophyllum, D. densiflorum, D. Farmeri, and D. Pierardi latifolium, generally bloom during winter, but I have kept them back until June; and by having a succession of plants, the Orchid house may be gay with Dendrobiums from January to June. Nearly all the Dendro- biums will bear cool treatment while at rest, and all can be kept for late flowering. To insure this, place them in a warm greenhouse and give but little water, in fact, only just enough to keep them from shrivelling; under this treatment the temperature should not fall lower than 40°, and the stems must be kept dry, or the flower buds are apt to rot. They should be shaded from the sun, so that the flower buds may not be excited. When the plants are wanted to flower they should be removed to the Orchid house, and still kept shaded from the sun. Phajus Wallichii and P. yrandifolius may be kept back in the same way as the Dendrobiums. PACKING ORCHIDS FOR CONVEYANCE TO EXHIBITIONS. aN transporting Orchidaceous plants to exhibitions they | require great care in packing and tying, for many are very tender. Their flowers in many instances are large and waxy, and some of them require more packing than others. It is extremely annoying to have a fine specimen plant spoiled, during its journey to the place of exhibition, in consequence of its not being carefully packed, when with a 42 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. little care it would have travelled safely to any distance. In fact distance is of very little consequence, if the packing is well done. This was proved in a most extraordinary manner in the spring of 1869, by Robert Warner, Esq., who sent upwards of fifty specimen Orchids, from his gardens at Broom- field, to the International Horticultural Exhibition at St. Peters- burgh. These plants were carefully packed in close cases, and sent by rail the whole journey, saving the short run by steamer across the Channel, eight days being occupied in the transport. When unpacked and staged, they were in ex- cellent condition, having suffered during the journey no more than they would have done in the houses at home. That these plants should travel to St. Petersburgh in such excellent condition, is undoubtedly the greatest feat in con- nection with horticultural exhibitions that has ever been ac- complished, especially when it is stated that they were all large plants—amongst them Phalenopsis Schilleriana with a hundred expanded blossoms ; P. grandiflora, with about half the number ; Vandas, with numerous spikes ; Trichopilia crispa, with a hundred open flowers ; Cuttleyas, Dendrobiums, Odon- toglossums, Cypripediums, Aerides, and several other genera, the whole being profusely bloomed. A remarkable proof of what care will do with even the most delicate flowers was given in the case of the plant of Odontoglosswm Alexandre exhibited in this collection, which, after standing at the St. Petersburgh exhibition for a fortnight, was again packed up and exhibited three weeks later at the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens at Kensington, with the loss of only one or two flowers. I have had a good deal of this work to do, and a few hints on the subject to young beginners may be of practical use. Some kinds bear carrying much better than others. Phajus Wallichii and P. grandifolius are both bad plants for travelling, PAOKING ORCHIDS FOR CONVEYANCE TO EXHIBITIONS. 483 if not well packed. Ihave seen fine plants brought to different flower shows with their flowers completely spoiled for want of careful packing, though I have shown P. Wallichii several years at the Chiswick and Regent’s Park Exhibitions, and always managed to convey them without injury. In preparing them, put a strong stick to each flower spike ; the sticks should be long enough to go into the earth, and remain firm; they should be placed at the back part of the flowers, and should stand one or two inches above the flower spike; some wad- ding should then be fastened round the stick, and the flower spike tied firmly to it, putting more wadding round every flower stalk, and tying each firmly to the flower spike. Begin at the top of the spike, and tie every flower separately, so that they do not touch one another. The leaves must not be allowed to rub against the flowers. On arriving at the end of their journey, untie them, remove the wadding, and tie them out in the proper form. In tying, care should be taken not to rub the flowers. Saccolabiums and Aerides do not require so much packing. It is sufficient to put two or three sticks to each spike—one at each end, and one in the centre, if the spike be long, or two only if it is short. The stick, which should only be long enough to support the spikes in the drooping way in which they grow, should be fixed firmly in the basket or pot ; a small piece of wadding should be placed on the top of the stick, and to which the spike should be firmly tied. This will be sufficient to ensure safety. The wadding should not be allowed to touch the top part of the flowers, as it will stick to them, and be very difficult to remove. Vandas require more packing, their flowers being larger and further apart ; place some wadding between each flower on the spike, then fix some sticks firmly in the basket or pot, and tie the spike to them, without letting the stick touch the flowers ; 44 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. wadding should then be put in between the flowers to keep them separate. Phalanopsis grandiflora and P. amabilis travel badly, and require much care. The best way is to set the plant in the bottom of a box, which must be long enough to allow the flower spike to lie at full length ; wadding should then be placed underneath the flowers, which should lie flat on the wadding; another sheet of wadding should then be placed on the top of the flowers, in order to make them lie firm, although they may be treated in the same way as recom- mended for Vandas. Dendrobiums in some cases only require a stick to each stem, fixed firmly in the pot, and which should be tied to it. This will serve for such as D. nobile, D. macrophyllum, D. Devonianum, D. moniliforme, and sorts with similar flowers. Those, however, that flower with pendulous racemes, such as D, densiflorum, D, Farmeri, and others growing in the same way, require three sticks ; one to the stem, to which the latter should be firmly tied, and the other two to the flower spike, one at each end, in the same way as with the Sacco- labiums. Calanthes are bad travellers, especially C. veratrifolia; the delicate white flowers soon getting injured and discoloured if allowed to rub against each other ; to avoid this, put a stick carefully to each spike. Cutileyas require to be packed very carefully ; their flowers should be tied so that they do not touch one another. The best method is to put a stick to each flowering bulb, tying it firmly, and a stick to each flower stalk, just below the flower, with a piece of wadding round the stalk; afterwards tie the stalks to the stick; neither the stick nor the leaves should be allowed to touch the flowers, or they will become bruised. Oncidiums travel well; they only require a strong stick to PACKING ORCHIDS FOR CONVEYANCE TO EXHIBITIONS. 45 each flower spike, with a piece of wadding round the stick at the points where the ties come. Sobralia macrantha is a bad plant to travel if not properly tied. There should be a strong stick to each flowering growth, which must be tied firmly ; and also one to the flower stalk, with a piece of wadding close to the flower; then tie the stalk firmly to the stick, and allow nothing to rub against the flowers. Peristeria elata should be treated in the same way as above recommended for Phajus. Cypripediwms require a small stick to each flower stalk. All the Lycastes, and other Orchids that flower in the same way, require similar support for their individual flowers, which, if kept separate, will travel safely without more trouble. The best means of conveyance for Orchids is decidedly a spring van with a cover on the top. In placing the plants in the van, I always put some hay between each pot, to keep them firm and prevent their rubbing against each other ; this, moreover, helps to retain the heat in the pots, and also prevents draughts from reaching them, and thus the roots are not subjected to any great check through change of temperature. An opportunity occurs here to remark upon the paucity of Orchids at our great London exhibitions of the present day, as compared with former years. It is true several of the large contributors are dead, and their collections are dispersed ; some few have relinquished their culture, and others have removed to a distance, but there still remains ample material in the numerous rich collections in the vicinity of the metropolis to again furnish a glorious bank of flowers, such as formerly greeted the eye at famous Chiswick and the Regent’s Park Botanic Gardens on exhibition days ; and Iam fully persuaded 46 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. it is only from the want of encouragement in the matter of prizes, that we do not now see these gorgeous displays at our London shows. That such is the case, we have only to turn to the great Whit-week show at Manchester, and then we find a proof of the fact. There the prizes are good, and not onl do the cultivators in the immediate vicinity bring their plants, but some from a considerable distance can be seen staging their productions for competition against the celebrated growers of the ‘ Cottun Metropolis ;” indeed, the display made last year I never saw surpassed, if equalled, at any show. This may be readily imagined when I state that a double row of these plants alone extended a distance of over three hundred feet, and amongst them were many of the grandest Lelias, Cattleyas, Vandas, Trichopilias, Odontoglossums, and a host of other things it has ever been my lot to behold. Some may say that this only proves the love of gain to be the chief motive power; but this is a wrong conclusion to draw ; for although gentlemen and gardeners do sometimes exhibit for the honour only, such cannot always be the case. Indeed, the cost of obtainmg a proper conveyance, the packing, the transit, and the time occupied at the exhibitions, repre- sents a considerable sum of money, and very few persons can be induced to incur the expenditure if the prize to be com- peted for does not cover the expense—neither is it reasonable of any Society to expect that they should do so. ADVICE TO COLLECTORS OF ORCHIDS. JHERE are many different ways of importing Orchids to this country. I have seen some that have arrived in good condition, while others have been completely destroyed by not being properly prepared before starting. The ADVICE TO COLLECTORS OF ORCHIDS. 47 first and most important thing is to prepare them for their journey. The next most important matter, perhaps the most important, is to start them on their journey at the proper time. My opinion is, that the plants should be sent away from their native country during the dry season, which is when they are at rest. While inactive their leaves and pseudo- bulbs are thoroughly ripened and firm, and contain but little sap; whereas when they are growing, the foliage is necessarily tender, and in danger of being bruised, a circumstance which accelerates decay during the voyage. Another reason in favour of dormant importation is, that, if sent in a growing state, or just as they are starting into growth, the young shoots push out on the journey, and for want of light and air come weak and dwindling, very often dying outright as soon as exposed. -I have seen many a fine mass of Cattleya with all the leading growths completely rotten, which, of course, greatly lessens the value of the plants as compared with those which arrive perfect, and are just ready to start into growth as soon as they get into a warm house. Plants which on arrival have pushing pseudobulbs are also apt to lose their leading eyes, an acci- dent fatal to some Orchids, for many do not break well, if at all, from old bulbs. The species of Aerides, Saccolabium, Vanda, Angrecum, and similar plants that have no fleshy bulbs to support, are best imported after they have become established on flat pieces of wood, so that they can be nailed to the sides of their travelling cases. I once received a consignment of Orchids from Manilla, including amongst other fine plants some beau- tiful examples of Phalenopsis Schilleriana, P. rosea, P. ama- bilis, P. intermedia, Aerides quinquevulnerum, and Vanda vio- lacea, all established and sent off in the way just described ; they had evidently been growing some time before starting for this country, for on arrival their roots adhered firmly to the 48 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. wood, and many of their leaves were as green as though they had been in an Orchid house instead of having made such a long sea voyage in a glass-topped case. One point of import- ance is to take care to well secure the plants to the sides of the cases; because, if allowed to roll or swing about, they get bruised and soon rot, which is very vexing after all the trouble and expense bestowed on importing them. In the case of the Phalaenopsis Schilleriana just referred to, some of the pieces of wood had become loose, rolling about during the journey, which caused injuries. In such cases, if any leaves are bruised during the journey, the best way is to cut them off at once before decay begins; for if allowed to go on, there will be danger of the whole plant being destroyed. With the cases just alluded to, I received also a close box filled with Phale- nopsids packed in the dry bark of trees, which is a very bad material for such tender-leaved plants; when I unpacked this box there was not a green leaf to be seen—the shaking of the rough material just named, during the long journey, had de- stroyed all the foliage. If these had been packed in very dry soft moss, they would most likely have travelled safely. I have also received plants in good condition from India, in close boxes, packed in dry soft shavings, while on the other hand many are entirely spoiled in that way. The cause of failure I attribute to their not being packed in a proper state; the plants themselves, as well as the material employed, should be well dried before packing, and care should be taken to avoid bruises, which often prove fatal. Cattleyas and plants with similar pseudobulbs I have received in close boxes from Brazil, packed in dry shavings, and have found them, when opened, in good condition ; but care had evidently been taken to pack them firmly in the boxes, so that they did not shake about on their journey. The best time of year for receiving Orchids in this country ADVICE TO COLLECTORS OF ORCHIDS, 49 is, if possible, the spring, in order that they may have the summer before them to get established. With Anactochili the best way is to tie some moss round their roots and stems to keep them firm, leaving the foliage just above the moss, and they should occupy a small case by themselves. These little things are very tender, and therefore require a great deal of care to import them alive. On arrival, pot them in some dry soil (see Anwcrocuit1), and put them in a close place with little heat at first, until they begin to grow ; afterwards pot them separately in small pots, and place them under hand-glasses or in a frame, giving them the treatment usually recommended for this class of plants. Cases in which Orchids are sent home ought to be made strong, and roofed with good stout glass not easily broken ; for I have often seen plants spoiled by the glass being fractured. Through an accident of this kind, salt water and cold air get in, both of which are very injurious. All cases should be air and water-tight ; and to prevent the glass being broken, the best thing to place over it is some strong iron wire, or stout and broad wooden bars; the sash bars ought also to be made very strong, and the case must not be placed during the journey too near heated surfaces or fires in the vessel. I have seen many boxes of plants spoiled by being set in such positions, the leaves being completely dried up; they ought to be placed in a moderately warm situation, but by no means near any fires. Many plants also arrive in this country in a dead or dying state, from the effects of exposure to the full effects of the sun; this, however, may be obviated by simply painting the glass white inside: it must be allowed to become thoroughly dry before fastening down. During the past year or two an immense quantity of Orchids have been sent to this country, a large proportion of which proved to be dead upon arrival. There may perhaps be D 50 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. several causes assigned for this, but the rapacious appetite of the collector is the principal one, the boxes being overcrowded by his sending home thousands instead of being satisfied with a few dozens, and in consequence all arrive dead. Another probable cause of this loss, is that they may have been gathered at the wrong season. This is sad to contemplate, involving as it does the extermination of the plants in their native homes, and loss of time to the collector, which, com- bined with loss of money, vexation, and disappointment to the cultivator at home, has a most depressing influence upon Orchid growing. All this might be avoided if collectors would be satisfied with a less number, and would attend to the few simple rules given in this chapter, adapting them to suit the circumstances in which they find themselves placed. INSECTS. RCHIDS are liable to be injured by many sorts of insects, such as red spider, thrips, mealy-bug, white and brown scale, woodlice, cockroaches, and a small snail, Helix alliaria. Cockroaches are among the greatest plagues we have to deal with; they will do a great deal of mischief in a few nights if not sought after on every oppor- tunity. The food they like best, is the young tender roots and flower stems, and I have seen the roots of a plant completely eaten off in one night by these depredators. The only way to keep these insects under is by constantly looking after them, both by night and day, searching for them in the evening by candle-light, and in the daytime by moving the pots and baskets under which they harbour. They leave their hiding- places in the evening, to seek after food, and it is then that INSEOTS. 51 they are most easily caught. Chase’s Beetle Poison, a phos- phoric mixture sold in boxes, is a capital thing to destroy them, if laid in different parts of the house in the evening. Tt should be placed on oyster-shells or pieces of tile or slate, two or three nights a week, and then removed for a week, repeating the operation every other week until they are destroyed. The pieces of shell should be collected every morning, and put down again in the evening. By using this preparation from time to time they may be kept under. It is also a good plan to lay some damp moss as a decoy in the hot- test part of the house ; this should be looked over every two or three days, and I have killed many in this way. They may also be destroyed by the use of a mixture of honey, lard, and arsenic, the latter in very small quantity, placing some of this on oyster-shells, and laying them in different parts of the house. Some growers mix the arsenic with tallow, and put it on a stick, which is stuck in the pots: care must, however, be taken that the mixture does not touch the leaves or bulbs of the plants. Bell-glasses are also used for catching these pests, placing them so that they are level with the soil or moss, and then half filling them with treacle, to which some water has been added to make it a little thinner; it should be thick enough to stick and prevent them from climbing up the glass ; the dead ones should be removed every day. Small ants. are another pest in the Orchid house, as they carry the dirt to the flowers, and thus spoil their appearance. The best plan I know of by which to catch these little troublesome insects, is to cut apples in halves, scoop out some of the inside, and lay the pieces in different parts of the house, looking them over very often. I have in this way destroyed hundreds in a very short time. ‘Treacle is also a good thing as a trap for these pests; place some in a bell-glass where they frequent—they are fond of anything sweet; they go to feed, D2 52 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. get into the mixture, and cannot get out again, as it sticks to them, and thus causes death. I have also found hollow bones a very good means of enticing them, and these should be dipped in boiling water and the bones laid down again ; look them over often. , The woodlouse and the small snail (Helix alliaria) are also very destructive. These, like the cockroach, are very fond of the young roots; they may be trapped by cutting some potatoes in two, scooping out the inside, and placing them on the pots and baskets, looking them over every night and morning till the house is cleared of these vermin. Turnips cut in slices will answer the same end. Some dry moss put into flower-pots also form capital traps for the woodlouse ; lay them on their sides in different parts of the house, and examine them frequently, destroying those which are caught. Toads are very useful in catching insects ; a few of them in a house do a great deal of good. The best way of getting rid of the red spider and the thrips is by frequently washing the leaves with clean water, and by fumigating the house with tobacco. My method is, to fill the house with tobacco smoke three or four times, at intervals of two or three days, till the insects are quite destroyed ; evening is the best time to do this. It is also a good plan to mix some lime and sulphur together, and rub it on the pipes in different parts of the house, taking care not to use too much; and it should be used only when the pipes are warm. There should be a good supply of moisture at the same time, but not too much heat. There is also a kind of red thrips, which sometimes gets into the heart of the plants, and is very troublesome ; tobacco smoke is the best remedy for this. It is very difficult to perceive, but will soon disfigure the tops of the plants if not kept under; when discovered, the house should be smoked every two or three nights till it is destroyed ; INSECTS, 53 the parts on which the insects had established themselves should be washed with tobacco water. The green fly, which makes its appearance in spring,on the young flower buds, may also be destroyed by tobacco smoke, and of late we have a yellow fly introduced, which is a great pest if not kept under, and requires more looking after than the green fly ; smoke will kill this nuisance, and wherever it is seen wash it off with a sponge to prevent its increase. The brown, and white scale, and mealy-bug may be kept under by frequently sponging the leaves and bulbs with water ; the white scale is very troublesome if not looked after. A little soft soap mixed with water, and rubbed over the leaves and bulbs, is a good thing to destroy this kind of scale ; it should remain on for a day, and if then washed off, all will be destroyed ; care should, however, be taken not to use it too strong. Cattleyas are very subject to this pest. The following is another recipe for destroying it:—To one gallon of rain water add eight ounces of soft soap, one ounce of tobacco, and three table-spoonfuls of spirits of turpentine ; stir well together and leave the mixture for forty-eight hours; then strain it through a cloth, when it will be ready for use. It is necessary to rub the plants over two or three times, if they are much infested, but once will be sufficient in most cases. Any portion of the mixture remaining after the plants are washed, should be put into a bottle, and reserved for future use. This recipe is also a cure for thrips on azaleas or any other plants. The ingredients as above noted should be mixed in a large tub and the plants dipped in it; this will speedily clear them of the pest. It will be seen, therefore, that it is useful to others as well as Orchid growers, and will prove a great saving of labcur for those who grow large plants for exhibition, or for those who have a quantity of small plants to clear of such pests. The mealy-bug must be kept away by 54 ORCHID-GROWER'’S MANUAL. constant watching and frequent cleansing. Whenever a plant is purchased that is infested with it, take care to cleanse it thoroughly before placing it in the stove or Orchid house. In a word, never allow insects to get the upper hand, or you will not long continue to grow plants to perfection, for all such pests are as poison to plants—robbing them of their vigour, and when they have lost that there is not much hope of them. There are more plants lost through uncleanliness than from any other cause. ROT IN ORCHIDS. Seal RCHIDS are subject to disease in their leaves, stems, and pseudobulbs, especially during the damp months of winter. The rot, which is apt to assail the thick fleshy bulbs, is caused by toc much moisture in the house. When the heat is low, sometimes the drip from the glass will fall on the crowns of the pseudobulbs, and this soon causes them to rot. Steam is also very injurious in a house during the winter; it is particularly inimical to such plants as Cattleyas, Peristerias, Odontoglossums, and any other Orchids that have fleshy bulbs. When the rot attacks the bulbs it should be seen to at once, and may be easily stopped by cutting the diseased part entirely away with a sharp knife, no portion of the diseased or decayed bulb being left, and the wound should then be filled up with sulphur, to keep it dry. When the leaves begin to rot, the diseased part should also be cut clean away, and a little sulphur rubbed on the part that is cut, but not in such a manner as to let the sulphur get to the roots of the plants. When any part of the fleshy pseudobulbs of the above- SPOT IN ORCHIDS. 55 named plants, or of those with similarly-formed bulbs, becomes discoloured, and the dark or discoloured part appears moist or wet, especially if any fluid exudes from it on pressure, the wet or discoloured part should be immediately cut out, or there is danger that the bulb will be destroyed, as the rot is often much more extensive within the bulb than the discoloured appearances on the outside would seem to indicate. The plant should also be removed to a drier and cooler place, and water should be given with the utmost care. SPOT IN ORCHIDS. HIS disease is the dread of many Orchid growers, and there is no denying that when it attacks plants it _ soon disfigures them. Some assert that it is in- fectious, but in this I am a total unbeliever. Indeed, I would have no hesitation in placing a plant infected with spot amongst a quantity of healthy ones, and should any of these become diseased, I should feel certain it was induced by a wrong course of treatment in some respect, and that no blame could be laid to the charge of a neighbouring plant. A great deal has been said and written respecting this disease, which I have seen in various places, and in other plants as well as in Orchids. I have not experienced much of it myself, and have in most cases found that the plants out- grow it. To prevent the disease making its appearance, no rotten or rotting material should be permitted near the roots, either in the shape of sour stagnant moss, or soil, or decomposed wood. If the plants get sufficient, but not excessive heat, an 56 ORCHID-GROWER'S MANUAL. abundance of fresh, sweet air, without draughts or sudden chills, a liberal supply of moisture, and full exposure to the light, with shade from the direct burning rays of the sun, I am fully persuaded that the “spot” will never be troublesome. On the other hand, if any plants are attacked, they should be immediately taken out of the material, and every particle of decaying or decayed root removed, and the whole that remains sound should be well washed with warm water; after this they should be re-potted in some good sweet soil, the instructions given above for the treatment of healthy plants being otherwise followed out. In 1860, a gentleman bought of me some planis of Phalenopsis, which were the finest grown plants I had seen, and they did beautifully with him for some time, growing very fast—in fact too fast, for they got sappy, and their leaves became spotted, as did also those of some others he had. Some time after I went to see them, and he asked my opinion respecting them. Upon inquiring how they had been treated, he told me that he gave them a great deal of water over the leaves, and kept the roots wet; this was during winter. I went several times to see them during the following spring, and advised him to treat them as recommended for Pha- lenopsis in these pages. These plants have quite outgrown the spot, and are now among the finest round London. When at Hoddesdon, I had two Phalenopses which became affected with spot in the winter. I cut off one of the leaves, and sent it to Dr. Lindley for his opinion as to the cause of the evil. His reply was, that the plants had been kept too moist during the cold dark days of winter— a fact which I have never since lost sight of. He was quite right, for it was a sharp winter, and these two plants had been kept wet by placing the bottom of the block on which they grew in a pan of water to keep off the cockroaches. In that way, too much SPOT IN ORCHIDS. 57 moisture crept up to the roots, and, being in the winter time, this doubtless caused the leaves to become spotted. However, by following the treatment here recommended in my remarks on Phalenopsis, the plant soon recovered; but if a rigorous change had not been adopted in time, the disease would have gone too far, and probably killed the plants. Much injury is done to epiphytal Orchids by keeping the plants too wet at the roots in dull weather; in fact, too much moisture in that way is injurious at any time, especially to those species that grow on branches of trees, when they come to be confined in pots and baskets with a mass of wet material about them, which is unnatural. My practice is, to give but little water at the roots during winter, and not so much as many people in summer, because I have seen the ill effects of it. The treatment I recommended some years ago I still follow, and with uniform success. Some Orchid growers give more heat and moisture than is here recommended, and their plants have done well for a time ; but under such exciting management they are apt to become spotted, and get into a permanently bad state of health ; in short, the least chill, after growing in so high a temperature, is liable to induce disease. The great secret in the cultivation of these as well as of all other plants, is a proper house, without drip ; sufficient ventilation, heat, and moisture ; and the total banishment of all insects detrimental to vegetable life. The temperature throughout the whole year should be kept as nearly as possible in accordance with the directions laid down in these pages, which are the result of long experience and close observation. 58 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. MODE OF MAKING ORCHID BASKETS. ALOCKS and baskets are most natural for true air- plants, such as Vandas, Saccolabiums, Aerides, An- gracums, Phalenopses, &. When planted in baskets or on blocks, these send out their roots much more vigorously into the air, and suck up the moisture, whereas, if their roots are covered too much, they are very apt to rot. Various materials are used for forming baskets. Sometimes they are made of copper wire, which is very durable. Others are made from the ordinary material in use for making flower-pots— these are very good indeed, and have a neat appearance. Mr. Anderson, gardener to T. Dawson, Esq., of Meadow Bank, has some very good ones of this description ; they are round, about six inches deep, with holes in the bottom, and made of the ordinary pottery clay ; they are, moreover, very useful, as they last a long time, and the plants do well in them. I prefer, however, those made of wood, on account of their rustic appearance, and, besides, the roots like to cling to the wood. The best baskets are those of a square shape, made of proportionate even-sized rods without the bark. The wood should be cut into the lengths according to the size of the basket required. They should not be too large, for there are two objections to this; one is, that they take up much space ; the other, that the plants do not require much room. After the wood is cut into proper lengths, the pieces should be bored within one inch from the ends, taking care to have all the holes bored at the same distance : there should be four lengths of copper wire, one for each corner, and this wire being fastened at the bottom, should be put through the hole in each piece of wood, and be afterwards brought up to form VANDA CCBRULESCENS. SELECT ORCHIDS AT PRESENT IN OULTIVATION. 59 the handle for suspending the plants from the roof. Galvanised iron wire only should be used in making baskets, for any other is probably injurious to the plants. The best kinds of wood for blocks are acacia, apple, pear, plum, maple, hazel, or cork, if it can be obtained. The wood should be cut into lengths suitable for the size of the plants ; some copper nails should be driven in at each end, to which should be fastened copper wire to form the handle; wind the wire round each nail, and leave the handle about ten inches high. Small copper. or galvanised iron nails, driven in on the surface of the block, serve, by means of copper wire, to fasten the plants on to the blocks. There are some imitation blocks made with pottery ware, which are very neat, and last a long time, but it is questionable if they are so congenial to the plants as wood. The great advantage of growing Orchids on blocks or in baskets, is that of being able to get the plants near the glass, where they may reap the full benefits of sun and light. SELECT ORCHIDS AT PRESENT IN CULTIVATION. IN the following descriptions of all the best Orchida- %| ceous plants now cultivated in our gardens, a general account is given of the distinctive features of each genus ; this is followed by a more particular description of the individual species, together with an account of the mode of treatment which I have found, after considerable experience, best adapted to their successful cultivation. ACINETA. This genus comprises several species ; the most attractive kinds are, however, here specified. They should all be grown 60 ORCHID-GROWER'S MANUAL. in baskets, as they produce their flower spikes from the base of the pseudobulbs, and they invariably take a downward direction. The species are all evergreen, with short pseudo- bulbs, and leaves about a foot high ; of easy culture, and are best grown in baskets with moss and peat. A liberal supply of water at the roots during their period of growth is necessary for their successful culture, afterwards less will suffice. They will all succeed in either the East Indian or Cattleya house, suspended from the roof, and all of them are propagated by division. In order that the flowers in this class, as in all others, may be preserved in bloom, care should be taken not to wet them while watering the plants. A. Barkerit.—A curious Orchid from Mexico, producing from the bottom of the pseudobulbs spikes about a foot in length, bearing rich yellow flowers, which will last a long time in perfection. It blooms during the summer. A. densa.—A beautiful and distinct species, also from Mexico, with yellow and crimson flowers, which are produced on pendulous spikes from the base of the bulbs, and which will last a long time in perfection. A. Humboldtii.— A strong-growing species from La Guayra. Flowers in the same way as 4. Barkeri, but about a month earlier; the long spikes of flowers are of a deep chocolate colour, spotted with crimson. It lasts only a short time in perfection. ACROPERA. A genus nearly related to Gongora, the species of both being pretty and curious; the flowers of the one now described are large, and produced in great profusion. The treatment this plant requires is not a cool one, which is the case with many of the genus; it thrives best in the Cattleya house, grown in a basket with sphagnum moss and turfy peat. ADA—AERIDES. 61 A. armeniaca.—A very free-growing compact plant, attain- ing to about a foot in height; pseudobulbs somewhat oval, bearing on the top two broad light green leaves, and from the base producing a rather lax, many-flowered, pendulous raceme, a foot or more in length, supporting from twelve to twenty of its rich yellow flowers, slightly spotted with red ; blooms very freely through the summer months, and is a very desirable plant for a basket. Apa, This genus, as far as I am aware, contains but one species, and is evidently nearly allied to Brassia. It is an extremely showy and ornamental plant, as the colour is rare amongst Orchids; it should be grown with such plants as Odontoglossum Alexandre, and treated in the same manner. A. aurantiaca—But few plants of this most desirable Orchid have been imported, until quite recently, and this probably is the reason we have up to the present time so seldom seen it. It is a beautiful compact evergreen Orchid, growing from eight inches to a foot high ; spike drooping ; the flowers, which are of a bright orange colour, are~placed some- what distantly on them; native of New Grenada, being found growing at an elevation of 8,500 feet. It is another addition to our now numerous cool-house species; blooms in autumn and early spring. AERIDES. The species of Aerides are among the most beautiful of Orchids, many of them uniting every good quality that a plant can possess—rich, evergreen, and regularly-curved foliage, a graceful habit, flowers deliciously scented, and of peculiar elegance. Even when not in bloom the plants themselves are interesting objects, and give a tropical character to the collec- tions in which they are found. The stems of the Aerides are 62 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. straight or slightly bent, with leaves attached on opposite sides, and they are nourished by large fleshy roots, shooting out horizontally from the lower part of the stem. The flowers, which are rich and waxy, proceed from the axils of the leaves, and extend in delicate racemes one or two feet in length, while their fragrance is so powerful as to fill the house in which they grow with grateful perfume. These plants are of easy culture, and if properly attended to are seldom out of order. They are found in various parts of India and in the islands of the Indian Archipelago, growing on the branches of trees, generally on such as overhang streams of water; and to grow them in anything like perfec- tion, the climate in which they grow wild must be imitated in most respects. I find they succeed best with a good supply of heat and moisture during their growing season, which is from about March to the latter end of October. During that time I keep the temperature, by day, from 70° to 75°. It may be allowed to rise to 80° and 85°, or even higher will not do any harm, provided the house is shaded from the rays of the sun. The night temperature should range from 65° to 70° in March and April, and afterwards it may rise five degrees higher. Some grow their Aerides in baskets made of wood, but they may also be grown in pots—a mode of culture successfully fol- lowed by many of our Orchid growers, especially those who exhibit; for when in pots, the plants are more easily moved about. Another reason in favour of pot culture is that baskets soon decay ; but if the plants are not required for exhibition, I should advise some of the smaller kinds to be grown in baskets, in which they have a fine appearance, especially if there is room for suspending them, letting the roots grow out of the basket. All the kinds will succeed well in this way. In pot culture fill the pots about three parts full of potsherds, AERIDES. 68 large pieces at the bottom, but finish off at the top with small; above this fresh living sphagnum moss should be used, and when the moss begins to decay fresh should be given to keep all healthy. They all do well on blocks of wood, but to grow them in perfection they require care as regards moisture. Sphagnum moss and broken potsherds have proved the best materials for filling baskets. They require frequent watering at the roots during the growing season ; indeed, they should never be allowed to become thoroughly dry, not even during their season of rest, as they are liable to shrivel and lose their bottom leaves. Aerides require but little repose, and the moss should always be kept damp; but during the dull months of winter no water should be allowed to lodge on the leaves or in the heart of the plant, as it would be very apt to rot them. The plants, if not in pots, should be suspended from the roof, but not very near the glass, lest they should be affected by cold ; and they should be kept perfectly free from insects, espe- cially the different kinds of scale. There is a small kind in particular which is apt to infest them, and which, if allowed to increase, will speedily make the plants look yellow and unhealthy. It may be kept under by washing with warm water and soft-soap, applied with a sponge and left on the leaves for some twenty-four hours, when all remains of the soap should be removed with clean water. These plants are propagated by cutting them into pieces, with roots attached to each piece. Some kinds, however, are shy in throwing up young shoots, and this makes these sorts very scarce. The A. odoratum division is the most easy to increase, and A. crispum sends out roots more freely than some others. If the plants ever get into an unhealthy condition, the best way is to cut off the bottom of the plant, and give fresh moss, with plenty of water at the roots. A, affine.—A handsome free-flowering species from India, 64 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. with light green foliage a foot long, and pink and white flowers, produced on long branching spikes in great profusion. I have seen spikes of this two feet long, with three and four branches on each spike. It is a profuse bloomer, and has been exhibited with from thirty to forty spikes. It grows from two to three feet high, and makes one of the finest plants for exhibition, continuing in blossom three or four weeks. A, affine superbum.—A splendid variety of the former, the colour of which is richer, and the flowers much larger, and the plant is more compact in growth. It is a free-flowering variety, producing a many-branched spike. A, crispum.—A truly beautiful free-growing kind from India, with purple coloured stem, dark green foliage, ten inches long; the blossoms, which are abundant, are white, tipped with pink. Flowersin June or July, and lasts two or three weeks in good condition. The spikes of flowers are long and very distinct from any of the other kinds. A. crispum, var. Lindleyanum.—A charming kind, with a large branching spike, bearing blooms of a fine rich colour about the same time as the species; sepals and petals white, lip large, rich rose; growth similar to that of A, crispum. A, crispum, var. Warneri.—A splendid free-flowering variety from India. In leaves and stem it closely resembles A. crispum, except that the leaves are smaller and more slender in growth ; the blossoms, which are produced in June and July, are white and rich rose colour, and they last three or four weeks in perfection. A. cylindricum.—A very rare and distinct-growing plant, in habit resembling Vanda teres, but not so strong; the flowers, which are produced in pairs from the axils of the leaves, are as large as those of A. crispum, white and pink in colour. This plant is called A. vandarum by Prof. Reichenbach, but it has AERIDES. 65 been cultivated in our gardens for some years under the name we have retained. A. Dominianum.—A garden hybrid, having flowers of the colour of those of A. Fieldingiti, with the markings and shape of A. affine. It is very rare at present. One of the most beautiful varieties which are enriching our collections as the result of hybridising. It is the produce of a cross between A. Fieldingii and A. affine, producing rich rose-coloured flowers. A. Fieldingii—A magnificent free-flowering Indian species, of which there are many varieties both in growth and flowers, and which is popularly known as the Fow-brush Aerides ; it grows from two to three feet high; some of the varieties have dark green foliage, while others are of a lighter shade ; the leaves, which are broad, are eight or ten inches long; the spikes sometimes attain a length of three feet, and are branched ; the flowers are clear bright rose colour, unusually large, and are produced during May, June, and July, continuing in bloom three or four weeks. This makes a fine exhibition plant. A. japonicum.—tThis is quite a novelty, being, as far as I am aware, the first of the genus from Japan, and consequently will prove a cool-house species. It has thick coriaceous leaves, and a raceme of moderate length ; the flowers are of a greenish white, spotted with rose colour. A. Larpente.—A fine free-growing plant, with dark green leaves, ten inches long. The flowers are numerous, on a single spike, of a cream and light rose colour. It blooms in June, and lasts two weeks in perfection. This is a distinct plant, and was first flowered by Mr. Eyles, then gardener to Lady Larpent, and shown at the Regent’s Park Exhibition in 1847, when it received the first prize as a new plant. Native of the East Indies. A, Lobbii—A free handsome-flowering species from India, 66 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. producing long spikes of deep rosy pink and white blossoms ; foliage light green, about eight inches long and nearly two inches wide. Altogether a very showy kind, of which there are several varieties; many of them produce long branching spikes, and make a fine display when in bloom. This has become one of our best Aerides for exhibition. A. maculosum.—A. lovely dwarf Orchid from Bombay, with dark green leaves, eight inches long, close and compact, stiff growing, with light coloured flowers, spotted all over with purple, and a large purple blotch on the lip. Blooms in June and July, and, if the flowers are kept dry, lasts four weeks in perfection. The colour of the bloom is very striking. The plant is slow growing, which is the reason we so seldom see fine plants. A. maculosum, var. Schroderit.—A magnificent free-growing plant from the hills near Bombay, much stronger than A. maculosum and more in the way of 4A. crispwn, with dark green foliage, ten inches long ; the flowers are very delicate, the sepals and petals almost alike—white, tinged with lilac and spotted with rose, the labellum being of a beautiful rose colour. It flowers in June or July, lasting three weeks in perfection. This was first flowered by J. H. Schroder, Esq. It is supposed that there was only one plant imported ; and the stock at present in this country is from that one plant. A, McMorlandiaA magnificent species from India, com- pact in growth, and having bright green foliage, about ten inches in length; blossoms freely, producing long branching spikes of peach and white flowers in June and July, and con- tinuing three or four weeks in perfection. The only plant I know of this, was in the collection of E. MeMorland, Esq., in compliment to whom it is named. A. margaritaceum.— This pretty species has spotted leaves, and in its general appearance somewhat resembles AERIDES, 67 A, maculosum; it produces spikes of pure white flowers during summer. A. Mendelit.—This is a very handsome, distinct, and rare species. I believe the only plant in Europe is the one existing in the collection of S. Mendel, Esq., of Manly Hall, Manchester, a great lover of plants and a munificent patron of horticulture. The plant has a stem about the thickness of that of A. virens ; the leaves, which are about seven and a half inches long, and one and a half in breadth, are smooth, shining, and of a light green colour, and have the habit of clasping the stem at the base like those of A. quinguevulnerum. The flowers are produced upon drooping spikes, and resemble those of A. Larpente in size and shape, but are entirely distinct in colour, being pure white tipped with rose. Native of the East Indies. A, mitratum.—A very peculiar plant, with long whip-like terete, dark green leaves; the flowers are borne in dense erect spikes; sepals and petals pure waxy-white; lip rosy purple. An elegant and rare species from Moulmein. A, nobile.—A magnificent free-flowering species from India, in the way of A. suavissimum, but with the flowers larger and of a better colour, and the growth much stronger. I have seen spikes of this from two to three feet long, and branched ; colour of flowers creamy white, spotted and shaded with rose. Blooms in June, July, and August, and keeps in perfection three or four weeks. A, odoratum.—A good old free-growing species, and one of the most abundant flowering of this genus, having pale green foliage, blooming in June or July, and remaining two or three weeks in good condition. The blossoms are white, stained with pink, and have a delightful perfume. I have seen specimens five feet high and four feet in diameter, which produced thirty or forty spikes of bloom every year ; it 68 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. is altogether a noble and very useful plant. Native of the East Indies. A. odoratum cornutum.—A handsome free-flowering variety from India, distinct in growth from the former ; spikes about twelve inches long, furnished with pink and white coloured flowers, which, are produced in May, June, and July, and continue upwards of three weeks in bloom. A. odoratum majus—Like A. odoratum in growth, and differing only in the larger size and longer spikes of flowers. This makes a fine exhibition plant, and may be retarded very easily without the slightest injury. A. odoratum purpurascens.—This is a somewhat scarce variety, and one of the very best; it is robust in habit, with broad dark green leaves. It is a very free bloomer, producing along massive spike of large flowers, which are white tipped with bright pink. A. quinquevulnerum.—A splendid free-flowering Orchid from Manilla, with light green foliage, about one foot long, and less compact-growing than many other species. The sepals and petals are white, spotted with purple; the tip of the lip is green, the sides pink, and the middle a deep crimson: it blooms in July or August, and lasts two or three weeks in bloom. There are two varieties; one with much lighter coloured flowers than the other. : A, quinguevulnerum Farmeri.—A variety of the preceding, producing long spikes of white flowers ; it grows like A. quin- quevulnerum, and blooms about the same time. The first time this plant came under my notice was at Nonsuch Park, Cheam, the seat of W. F. G. Farmer, Esq. It is by no means plentiful. A. rosewm.—A beautiful dwarf plant from India, producing leaves a foot long, spotted with brown. It is a slow-growing species, bearing light rose-colour flowers, spotted with dark AERIDES. 69 rose ; it blooms in June and July. This plant, which does not root freely, requires less moisture than any of the other kinds. A, roseum superbum.—A fine variety, much stronger in growth than A. roseum ; the flowers also larger, and of a richer colour. The best variety I ever saw bloomed with Mr. B. Findlay, at the Botanic Garden, Manchester. The spikes of this, as well as those of the species, are apt to damp off at the ends before the flowers open—an evil which is often caused by too much moisture having been given. It continues a long time in perfection. A, rubrum.—aA very nice cool-house species, with dark green foliage ; a very distinct plant, not so showy as many of the preceding ones, but well worth growing ; indeed, any one that can appreciate Saccolabium ampullaceum would like this, the colour being similar and the spikes longer. Native of the Madras hills. A. suavissimum.—A distinct and desirable species, of free growth, having light green foliage ten inches long, spotted with brown. The sepals and petals are white, and the lip has a blotch of yellow in the centre edged with white. Blooms in July, August, and September, and lasts in good condition three weeks. I have flowered several varieties of this species, some of which were much better than others. A, suavissimum maculatum.—This is a very handsome form of the preceding ; the sepals and petals are white, profusely spotted with pink, so also is the lip. It bloomed very freely in the noted collection of Thomas Dawson, Esq., of Meadow Bank, during the past season. A. testaceum.—A very pretty Orchid, distinct from any- thing I know; it is, in habit of growth, like Saccolabium curvifolium, bearing spikes a foot long, with delicate sulphur- 70 ORCHID-GROWER'S MANUAL. coloured flowers; there are several varieties of this elegant little plant. A. Thibautianum.—This handsome Orchid is a free-grow- ing species, with somewhat the appearance of A. quinque- vulnerum ; it produces, however, a very different spike of bloom ; the spike is very long, with flowers rather laxly set upon it; sepals and petals of a beautiful rose colour, and the lip bright amethyst. It is sometimes called A. Huttoni. Native of Java. A, Veitchii.i—A charming species from India, with leaves about eight inches long, dark green, and covered with small spots; flowers of a white and pink colour, like so many small shells, so beautiful are they in appearance. Blooms during June and July, and lasts about three weeks in good condition. A. virens.—A lovely plant from Java, with light green foliage eight inches long; the flowers are of a light peach colour, spotted with purple, the lip being spotted with crimson. Blooms in May and June, the flowers remaining long in per- fection. A desirable species. A, virens yrandiflorum.—A magnificent variety from India, whose flowers are larger than those of A. virens, of a white and pink colour, and more graceful in their manner of growth. The only plant I have seen of this was in the collection of the late J, A. Turner, Esq., Manchester, where it bloomed during April and May, and continued from three to four weeks in beauty. A, virens superbum.—This is another fine variety from India, the growth of which is the same as that of A. virens, except that the spikes and flowers are longer and of a brighter colour. It blooms about the same time, and remains long in perfection. There is another superb variety, called A, Dayt, which blooms about the same time. AGANISIA—-ANECTOCHILUS, 71 A. Williamsiit.—A distinct and charming kind from India, with broad dark green drooping foliage. The spikes of flower are produced in great abundance, measuring from two to three feet in length, and branched; colour, pinkish white ; very scarce. First flowered in the collection of the late C. B. Warner, Esq.; blooms in June and July, and makes a fine Orchid for purposes of exhibition, on account of its free flowering character; from its delicate colour it also associates well with other kinds. AGANISIA. A. pulchella—A rare and pretty dwarf Orchid from Demerara, eight inches high, the only species of this genus that I know ; it produces from the bottom of the bulb a spike of flowers, which are white, with a blotch of yellow in the centre of the lip. It blossoms at different times of the year, lasts two or three weeks in perfection, and is best grown in a pot, with peat and good drainage. It requires a liberal supply of water at the roots, and the hottest house. It is a very scarce plant, and is propagated by dividing the bulbs. ANECTOCHILUS AND OTHER VARIEGATED ORCHIDS. The following short and plain description of all the Anactochili I have seen grown may prove serviceable to those who are beginning their cultivation, as well as to others who, having made a commencement, have not completed their collections. I have also added the mode of cultivation which, from long experience, has been found to suit their wants. Many fine species are, however, not introduced, and there are others in catalogues that I have not seen. Among Orchids, as well as among most other orders of the vegetable kingdom, there are variegated-leaved species and varieties, and these, like most other variegated plants, gene- 72 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. rally bear flowers small and unattractive compared with the beauty of their foliage. To this rule, however, the charming Phalaenopsis Schilleriana is an exception ; some of the Cypri- pediums, too, have both finely-variegated foliage and showy flowers. The genus Anactochilus is one of the most re- markable of this handsome class of Orchids, and to its cultivation, which is not generally well understood, I will now address myself. All the varieties are remarkable for compact dwarf habit, perfect form, and great beauty: they vary in height from two to six inches, and their leaves, which are well defined, vary from two to five inches in length, including the stalks, which, like the stems of the plant, are short and fleshy. The foliage of all the species is singularly beautiful; in some of the varieties it resembles the richest olive, or rather purple velvet, regularly inter- spersed with a network of gold. In others the leaf is of the most lively green, covered with silver tracery. As regards cultivation, the plants require sand and peat mixed with moss ; the white sandy ground from which they spring should be enlivened occasionally by small growths of moss, which sets off the plants to much advantage, especially when looked at through bell-glasses, under which the delicacy, richness, and softness of their appearance are increased. Few visitors walk through a house containing any of these plants without bestowing on them more than ordinary attention, and expressing admiration of their elegance, richness, and beauty. All the species require treatment very different from that of any other Orchid, and different growers -operate in different ways, but I have not found any mode of management to succeed better than the one first laid down by me many years ago, and which is being followed by many who have Anac- tochilt growing in great perfection. They are difficult to cul- tivate, and many fail with them—a circumstance I attribute ANACTOCHILUS AND OTHER VARIEGATED ORCHIDS. 13 to being kept too close. The case in which they are grown should always have a little air, by tilting the glass about one or two inches; this will benefit them very much, and make them more vigorous, for when too much confined in the case or bell-glass, they grow up spindly and damp off in the stem ; the latter, being fleshy, requires more substance and hardi- hood. I have seen Anectochili grown in bottom heat, which I find to be injurious: they sueceed in it for a time, but not long; they grow too fast, and become so weak as often to die altogether. Some few plants which I had in bottom heat I removed to a cooler house without it, and under cooler treat- ment they improved very rapidly. The finest collection I ever saw belonged to the late J. A. Tur- ner, Esq., of Manchester, and was under the care of Mr. Toll, his gardener ; the plants were grown under bell-glasses in the stove, but no bottom heat was applied. Mr. Turner purchased a plant of each kind from me some years ago; they had been grown and propagated, and he had large pots full of them, many plants of akind being placed together. This shows how well they may be grown without bottom heat. I have also seen them doing well in other places without bottom heat, in short, they may be grown without having an Orchid house at all, any common stove will do, or even a well-heated pit. I have frequently sold collections to gentlemen who have no other Orchids, but who have bought these for the express purpose of growing them for the decoration of the dinner-table, on which they have a beautiful appearance by artificial light. As the taste for table decoration is increasing, plants such as these will doubtless be much sought after for that purpose; and the subjecting of them to exposure for a few hours in a warm room will do them little harm, provided they have glasses over them with a ventilator at the top to let out moisture, so as to keep the leaves dry. As they are generally grown in small pots, they E 74 ORCHID-GROWER'S MANUAL. can be plunged in handsome vases with ornamental glass tops; and when done with, be taken back into the heat. For room- work let the foliage be dry, and there should not be much moisture at the roots. I should not, however, advise them to be used in the way just described on a frosty night; but during mild weather it will not do them any more harm than taking them to a flower-show. It was for years my custom, when living with the late C. B. Warner, Esq., at Hoddesdon, to show SOLD BY B. 8S. WILLIAMS, VICTORIA NURSERIES, UPPER HOLLOWAY, And all Booksellers. 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