NewYork | State College of Agriculture At Cornell University Ithaca, N.Y. Library Cornell University Library “i Cornell University The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924002824286 THE ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, CONTAINING DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF ORCHIDACEOUS PLANTS IN CULTIVATION ; TOGETHER WITH NOTICES OF THEIR TIMES OF FLOWERING, AND MOST APPROVED MODES OF TREATMENT ; ALSO, PLAIN AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS RELATING TO THE GENERAL CULTURE OF ORCHIDS ; AND REMARKS ON THE HEAT, MOISTURE, SOIL, SEASONS OF GROWTH AND OF REST BEST SUITED TO THE SEVERAL SPECIES AND VARIETIES. BY BENJAMIN SAMUEL WILLIAMS, F.LS., F.R.ELS,, Author of “ The Orchid Album,” “ Select Ferns and Lycopods,” “ Choice Stove and Greenhouse Flowering Plants,” “ Choice Stove and Greenhouse — ' Ornamental-leaved Plants,” Sc. Se. SEVENTH EDITION, ENLARGED AND REVISED TO THE PRESENT TIME. BY HENRY WILLIAMS, F.LS., F.R.HLS., Author of “The Orchid Album.” WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: PUBLISHED AT VICTORIA AND PARADISE NURSERIES, UPPER HOLLOWAY, LONDON, N. 1894. PREFACE TO THE SEVENTH EDITION. _— SIncE the issue of the last edition of this work in 1885 our father, the late Mr. B. S. WILLIAMs, has passed away deeply regretted by his many personal friends, and indeed by the whole Horticultural World, who have received such benefit from his various works and writings, and more especially the Orcuip-Growers’ Manuva, which has gained notoriety throughout the civilised world, and is even now the text-book of the majority of Orchid Growers, notwithstanding the numerous books on Orchid Culture in existence at the present day. The Sixth Edition having for some time been completely exhausted, it has devolved upon ws, the only son and successor to the late Mr. B. S. WILLiams, in response to many requests, to prepare and issue a new Edition. The enormous increase of this family of late years in both species and varieties, as well as hybrids, has so enlarged this work that it was necessary to consider the advisability of either increasing the size of the book or issuing it in two volumes ; believing the latter course to be unacceptable to our readers, we have decided to adopt the former course. These novelties, so far as they have been considered worthy, have been in- corporated in these pages. We have introduced many new illustrations representing as far as possible each genus, and most of the more popular species and varieties ; many of these are original, others have been very kindly lent by the Editors of The Gardeners’ Chronicle, The Journal of Horticulture, The Gardening World, The Garden, The Gardeners’ Magazine, A. H. Smee, Esq., Messrs. James Veitch & Sons, Mr. W. Bull, and other kind friends, to whom we have to record our most sincere thanks. To our old friend and coadjutor Mr. W. H. Gower we are indebted for assistance with the references and new descriptions of some of the plants here enumerated, also to Mr. R. A. Rolfe, of the Royal Herbarium, Kew, for information and assistance with the bigeneric hybrids, and to our colleague Mr. G. K. Gude for assistance with regard to the references, figures, and reading of the proofs. iv PREFACE. Tt is highly gratifying to us to receive constant communications from various parts of the world from Orchid Growers who express their delight in having read this work, and who state that it was the means of their first commencing to grow this fascinating group of plants; it is in deference to the wishes of many of our old subscribers that we have launched upon this new venture, and we hope that the support accorded to the former editions of this work by the Orchid-loving community may be renewed to this edition; no expense or pains have been spared to make it as complete as possible, and we have again been reluctantly compelled to increase the price. As before stated in the previous edition of this work we do not aim to instruct Botanists, but to assist Amateurs, by placing before them plain and practical information on a sound scientific basis, so that for the time and pains bestowed on the cultivation of this charming class of plants, they may be rewarded by the production of fine specimens, and as a consequence, abundant and beautiful flowers. HENRY WILLIAMS. May, 1894. CONTENTS. ae PAGE List oF ILLUSTRATIONS sii se es a oe ie we. Vil List oF BotanicaL WORKS REFERRED TO oe ae an sis we XV INTRODUCTION ... sits ns acts sit es as we oe wis Hapsitats oF Tropica, ORCHIDS SEASON FOR COLLECTING ORCHIDS ... Ad ao isk a i ast 9 Hints on CoLLECTING ORCHIDS... “6 si se ste seit wee bh Risks or CoLLEctine ORCHIDS i a ree nae nah ae we «7A Orcuip TREATMENT DuriInG GROWTH aa sei gee aie wish we. 9 OrcHIp TREATMENT DvRiNG REst ... me = sie it Sins waiiae: | 22d ADAPTATION OF TREATMENT TO SURROUNDING CoNDITIONS a bias vo 22. TREATMENT OF NEWLY-IMPORTED PLANTS ... 8 wes mon Ss a Q4 TREATMENT OF PLants IN BLoom_... a ot ae sy ait sent. “20 On Maxine Orncuip BaskEts sie ee ae a et ibe ay 27 Portine HPrpHytat ORCHIDS wis sti oe ste “ee ee .. 30 Porting TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS ae i sie oa be deo we = (82 Mops oF Inpucine Back GRowTHS og a vee as itt a. 88 WATERING ORCHIDS ... a6 a ss — ve ste an a OW PROPAGATION OF ORCHIDS... ier ii a si sh ae we (OU Ratsine ORCHIDS FROM SEEDS bi) tes ae aie me ies ax “39 OrcHips FoR Room DzcoraTion ... wa a ste wie sith wa) “AQ Orcuip Hovusszs so 2 44 GLazine oF ORcHID Hovsss... ts ‘sit aig bas mee as . 48 Heatine oF OrcuIp Hovsss... ie ane igs aes ‘a bee wax “AD VENTILATION OF ORCHID Houses... se ie cs ag Bai) ecty FOL SHavine or Oncuip Hovsss... ne oye ch dies = wi we (OD Growinc SPECIMEN ORCHIDS FOR EXHIBITION... as ue cs ae OO” TREATMENT PREPARATORY TO EXHIBITION ... is ae wae ae en )s) PackInG ORCHIDS FOR EXHIBITIONS oe we tes bi oe §=—88 InsECTS AND OTHER ENEMIES op ee sin ine sig “35 we «62 DIsEASES OF ORCHIDS... big ie cies Pe Sig “ars a we. 69 Pricks oF ORCHIDS ... i ye ee a ws ie a w= «71 Setect ORCHIDS IN CULTIVATION ... a ae set we Sr wa 03 765 INDEX ... int Pe wh aye sib se es ne sa as LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. _ > Orcuip ExuiBItion House IN THE VICTORIA AND PaRaDISE NURSERIES ORCHIDS GROUPED WITH FERNS anp Fouiacr PLants... a ie Orcurp House at GouviILLE Puan oF Orcuip Housn Puan oF Coot Orcuip House Acineta Humspo.pti aye ADA AURANTIACA AERIDES CRASSIFOLIUM CRISPUM VANDARUM ... AGANISIA COERULEA ... ANGRAECUM EBURNEUM ——__—— E.sii... KotscHyi ———_—\—— SESQUIPEDALE ... Ane6uLoa CLOWESII ; ANOECTOCHILUS INTERMEDIUM ANSELLIA AFRICANA ARPOPHYLLUM GIGANTEUM ARUNDINA BAMBUSAEFOLIA BaRKERIA ELEGANS BatreMannia COLLEYI —— MELEAGRIS... BIFRENARIA AURANTIACA BLETIA HYACINTHINA... Bo.iea PATtINIt BRASSAVOLA GLAUCA ... BRassIA MACULATA ... aes BROUGHTONIA SANGUINEA BULBOPHYLLUM SIAMENSE BURLINGTONIA CANDIDA —_—_—_—_-——- VENUSTA CALANTHE VERATRIFOLIA VESTITA ... WILLIAMSII CaMAROTIS PURPUREA CatasETUM BUNGEROTIII 101 102 109 112 114 115 11? 120 .. 121 .. 122 123 126 127 130 w. 181 .. 184 we 185 w. =186 w. 142 142, 143 .. $144 viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CaTASETUM SACCATUM SCURRA Cattleya ACLANDIAE CITRINA CRISPA DOLOSA GIGAS HaRrpyana MossIaz ... TRIANAE ... VELUTINA ... Cuysis CHELSONI ee ee id CIRRHOPETALUM ORNATISSIMUM (natural size) ORNATISSIMUM (reduced)... CocHLIODA SANGUINEA CoELIA BELLA... CoELOGYNE CRISTATA CoMPARETTIA MACROPLECTRON CoRYANTHES MACULATA PUNCTATA ... CYCNOCHES CHLOROCHILON ... CYMBIDIUM £BURNEUM GIGANTEUM HOooKERIANUM ... TRACEYANUM CYNORCHIS GRANDIFLORA Cypripepium AYLINGIT BELLATULUM ... CALCEOLUS CAUDATUM ais “CHaRLES RICHMAN” CLINKABERRYANUM ... CONCOLOR CuRTISII DomINIANUM ... EURYANDRUM ... EXUL ; ie ais FalIRRIEANO-LAWRENCEANUM GODEFROYAE ... INSIGNE MavLel ates PUNCTATUM VIOLACEUM LawREBEL LAWRENCEANUM LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CyprirpEDIuM Lowi! ... MASSAIANUM ... —— MEASURESIANUM MICROCHILUM ... MorGANIAE OENO-SUPERBIENS x5 —— PITCHERIANUM, WILLIAMS’ VAR. POLITUM —————— ROovtuscHILDIANUM SANDERO-SUPERBIENS SEDENI ——. SELLIGERUM SPECTABILE SPICERIANUM ... SUPERBIENS - eit —_—— TESSELLATUM PORPHYREUM ... VEXILLARIUM (single flower) (plant)... VILLOSUM ane DenpROBIUM AINSWORTHII ... - AMOENUM BRYMERIANUM D’ ALBERTISII ... DENSIFLORUM ... ———_———— FIMBRIATUM OCULATUM JAMESIANUM — JUNO LEEANUM ee LUTEOLUM CHLOROCENTRUM ... MacFarLaneEl NOBILE ... F — see CooKsoNIANUM aids ——_————— OWENIANUM ... ——_——— PIERaRDI SUPERBIENS THYRSIFLORUM... VENUS... ————— WaRDIANUM ... — WILLIAMSIANUM DreopIuM PALUDOSUM Disa GRAMINIFOLIA —— GRANDIFLORA EPIDENDRUM: RADICANS ix PAGE 278 281 281 282, 284 287 291 293 296 297 299 305 317 302 304 308 310 311 312 323 324 328 333 335 338 343 344 345 347 348 351 852 355 357 363 365 367 368 369 371 373 374 390 x LIST EpmpENDRUM VITELLINUM MAJUS EpistepHiuM WILLIAMSII ... ERIoPsIS RUTIDOBULBON... EsMERALDA CATHCARTI ay SANDERIANA ... EULOPHIA GUINEENSIS PURPURATA ... GaLEaANDRA DEVONIANA —_—— NIVALIs ... 3 GoNGORA ATRO-PURPUREA ... GoopDYERA PUBESCENS GovENIA DELICIOSA re GRAMMATOPHYLLUM E\LLISII... SPECIOSUM HABENARIA MILITARIS OF ILLUSTRATIONS. HAEMARIA DIscoLoR DawsoNIANA ... so we aes wee HELCIA SANGUINOLENTA HOovLLeTIA ODORATISSIMA TonopsiIs PANICULATA... Ipska SPECIOSA LakELIA ANCEPS Dawsoni STELLA ——— WILLIAMSIANA AUTUMNALIS ... HARPOPHYLLA ... JONGHEANA ... DasEwio-CattLEya DIGBYANA-MOSSIAE PHOEBE La&ELIOPSIS DOMINGENSIS LEpPToTEs BICOLOR LIssSOCHILUS GIGANTEUS LycasTE CRUENTA SKINNERI Macopes PEtoLa MAsDEVALLIA BELLA... Dayana EstRaDArE GELENIANA LINDENI Lowit MACRURA POLYSTICTA ROSEA (single flower) ne 439 460 465 466 468 473 477 480 482 487 488 490 495 496 497 500 502 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, MaspEvaLiia RosEA (plant) TOVARENSIS — TRIARISTELLA —— -VEITCHIANA ... —— VEITCHIANA AND TOVARENSIS — VELIFERA aon ————— Wattisii (natural size) (reduced) MaAXILLARIA FUCATA LUTEO-ALBA MIcROSTYLIS METALLICA MILTGNIA CUNEATA FWDRESI!I ... ‘ is ———— PHALAENopSIS (flower spike) (specimen plant) REGNELLI PURPUREA Roezii VEXILLARIA LEopoLpit ROSEA Wakscewiczi1 WELTON .. MoorEa IRRORATA MORMODES PARDINUM NanopEes MEpvUsAE ODONTOGLOSSUM ASPERSUM BLANDUM ss CERVANTESII DECORUM cIRRHOSUM (natural size) (reduced) (flower spike) ——__—_—__—. CORDATU©M ... CORONARIUM 5 sh crispuM (ALEXANDRAE) (reduced) (plant) ... (natural size) ... NOBILIUS... STEVENSII ——__—____——_ CRISTATUM ... — GLORIOSUM ... ———— GRANDE Ha ui HarryaNum HEBRAICUM... xi PAGE 502 504 505 506 503 507 508 512 510 512 515 519 519 521 518 522 522 524 526 524 527 529 532 534 540 541 543 544 545 546 548 549 500 550 552 554 556 558 563 564 565 567 568 xii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. OpontocLossuM LONDESBOROUGHIANUM ... as see wee LUTEO-PURPUREUM... ——_—___————-. LYROGLOssUM MULUS sing NEBULOSUM... as ais NEVADENSE... OERSTEDII ... Pre PESCATOREI LEUCOXANTHUM PLATYCHEILUM POLYXANTHUM Rossit VEXATIVUM . WARNERIANUM ‘ on ODONTOGLOSsUM HOUSE IN THE VICTORIA AND iris ene ONCIDIUM ANTHROCRENE —_ BARBATUM CONCOLOR ...- CURTUM DASYTYLE ... FLEXUOSUM GARDNERI JONESIANUM KRaMERIANUM LAMELLIGERUM — LAaNcEANUM ‘es LARKINIANUM LOXENSE ... MACRANTHUM MaRSHALLIANUM... MONACHICUM PaPILio PHALAENOPSIS SARCODES ... SPHACELATUM SPLENDIDUM SUPERBIENS is vaRicosuM ROGERSII Oxcuip BasKETs ee aes ORcHIS’ FOLIOSA a8 dea sis si i we ae ORNITHOCEPHALUS GRANDIFLORUS Pacuystoma THOMSONIANUM (single flower) (plant) as PaPHINIA CRISTATA‘ \.. aw ner iiss fer an PAGE 573 574 576 578 579 580 581 583 585 586 589 594 595 536 600 600 605 607 608 610 611 614 615 616 617 618 620 621 623 624 626 627 630 630 631 632 634 28 637 638 639 640 641 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PERISTERIA ELATA PESCATOREA CERINA DAYANA... KLABOCHORUM ... LEHMANNI Puaio-CaLANTHE IRRORATA ... Puasus Cooxsontr GRANDIFOLIUS HumMBLotir .., TUBERCULOSUS PHALAENOPSIS AMABILIS AMETHYSTINA... INTERMEDIA PORTEI... LipDEMANNIANA Manni SCHILLERIANA SPECIOSA ——_——_—— SUMATRAN: VIOLACEA AT HOME adi PILUMNA NOBILIS PLATYCLINIS FILIFORMIS PLEIONE HUMILIS itt LAGENARIA ... PLEUROTHALLIS RoEZL PROMENAEA CITRINA ... RENANTHERA COCCINEA RESTREPIA ANTENNIFERA SACCOLABIUM AMPULLACEUM... BLuUMEI HEN DERSONIANUM SaTYRIUM AUREUM ScHLIMIA TRIFIDA ScHOMBURGKIA TIBICINIS Scuticania STEELI ... SoBRALIA MACRANTHA SoOPHRONITIS GRANDIFLORA SPaTHOGLOTTIS PLICATA STANHOPEA INSIGNIS ... ——_-————. TIGRINA WanrpDil THUNIA MARSHALLIANA TRICHOCENTRUM ALBO-PURPUREUM ... X11 PAGE 644 646 646 647 648 650 653 654 654 656 660 661 666 668 668 670 672 673 675 657 678 680 682 683 688 690 692 695 698 699 702 705 706 709 710 713 716 718 722 724. 725 728 730 xiv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE TRICHOGLOTTIS FASCIATA 732 TRICHOPILIA CRISPA 734 VANDA COERULESCENS 741 CRISTATA ,... 742 —— DENISONIANA... 743 ——— LAMELLATA BOXALLII 745 — RoxBurecu ... re w 747 —— SUAVIS... e748 —_ TERES ... 749 —— TRICOLOR aie 751 ——— ParTERsonI sen ae ne ote a Za w. «702 WaRSCEWICZELLA LINDENTII... 756 759 ZYGOPETALUM CLAYI ... —_—_—— GaAvTIERI sri aay) ae a Phas re 224 .. 761 —————— Mackayi Se ahs a BO oes es eee a. 762 LIST OF ILLUSTRATED BOTANICAL WORKS REFERRED TO IN THIS BOOK, TOGETHER WITH ABBREVIATIONS USED. eer) = a Aiton, Hort. Kew ...........0... W. Aiton, Hortus Kewensis. London, 1789; 2nd Edition, 1810. 8vo. Andr. Bot. Rep. ...........0:.0044 Awnprews, The Botanist’s Repository. London, 1797—1811. 4to.. Ann. de Gand.........60.0.:cceee Annales de la Société Royale d’Agriculture et de Botanique de Gand. Ghent and Brussels, 1845—1848. 8vo. Ann. of Bote......ccccccceeeeeeee Annals of Botany. London and Oxford, 1887. In progress. 8vo. Ann. Se. Nat. o.0.ccccccccccceeeee Annales des Sciences naturelles. Paris, 1st series, 1824—1833; 2nd series, Botany, 1834. In progress. 8vo. Batem. Mon. Odont. ............ J. Bateman, A Monograph of Odontoglossum. London, 1864—74. Folio. Batem. Second Cent. Orch. Pl. J. Barzman, A Second Century of Orchidaceous Plants. London, 1867. 4to. Batem. Orch. Mew. ............... J. Bateman, The Orchidaceae of Mexico and ' Guatemala. London, 1837—43. Folio. Bedd. Ic. Pl. Or......0...00000006 R. H. Beppome, Icones Plantarum Indiae Orien- talis. Madras, 1868. 4to. Bela: Hort, sesssenssvmury vaimnces La Belgique horticole, Annales d’Horticulture Belge et Etrangére (E. Morren). Liége, 1851 —1885. Bennett, Fl. Jav.............0060 Bennett et Rosert Brown, Plantae Javanicae rariores. London, 1838—1852. Folio. Blume, Bijdr. ......0.cc ees C. L. Biumes, Bijdragen tot de Flora van Neder- landsch Indie. Batavia, 1825. 8vo. Blume, Flor. Jav. wc... C. L. Biumz, Flora Javae, Orchideae. Brussels, 1858. Folio. Blume, Orch. Arch. Ind. ...... C. L. Buumz, Collection des Orchidées les plus rémarquables de l’Archipel Indien et du Japon. Amsterdam, 1858. Folio. Blume, Rumphia .........000 C. L. Biumz, Rumphia. Leyden, 1885—48. Folio. Blames Lav see sconomesssecgsrecsn ees C.L. Buumt, Tabellen en platen voor de Javaansche Orchideen. Batavia, 1825. \ Folio. Bob MOG seas eiatcmnsanisaieitots Curtis, Botanical Magazine. London, 1787. In progress. 8vo. Bots Regs sexsevexsmormaiearrenieors Botanical Register (Edwards and Lindley). London, 1815—1847. 8vo. Breda, Orch. Jaw. o...ccccee Brepa, Genera et species Orchidearum quas in Java colligerunt Kuhl et van Hasselt. Ghent, 1827. Folio. Xv1 LIST OF BOTANICAL WORKS REFERRED TO. Der Vera TUe. spremerecmnteicnicwicei wai W. 4H. Dz Vrissz, Illustrations d’Orchidées des Indes Orientales. The Hague, 1854. Folio. Dict. of Gard... ccccccccseccseees The Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening (G. Nicholson). London, 1885—1889. 8vo. Duperrey Voy.....cccccccccceceees L. J. Durerrey, Voyage autour du Monde de la Corvette La Coquille; Botanique par D’Ur- ville, Bory de St. Vincent, et Brongniart. Paris, 1828—1829. 4to. Du Petit Thouars ........0....4. See Thouars. Bind. Toon. 0. .e eee cae scene St. Enpiicuex, Iconographia generum plantarum. Vienna, 1836—1850. Ato. Binge Bots ccscsuinevessescanvaenesies Smit and SowrErsy, English Botany. London, 1790—1849. 4to. Fitzgerald’s Austr. Orch. ...... R. D. Firzcrratp, Australian Orchids. Sydney, 1876—1891. In progress. Folio. Fl. Peruv. Prod. ..ccccccccccsecees Ruiz et Pavon, Florae Peruvianae et Chilensis Prodomus. Madrid, 1794. Folio. PLO: MOGs ssccaciniscrencnnncsnancns The Floral Magazine. London (Moore), 1861~ 1871. 8vo. Smith, Burbidge, and Dean, 2nd Series, 1871—1881. 4to. Flore des Serres .......c..ccceeees Van Hovrts, Flore des Serres et des Jardins de YEurope. Ghent, 1845—1883. 8vo. PR ORBE sustain tcl associa Sis The Florist. London, 1848—1861. 8vo. Con- tinued as “The Florist and Pomologist.” Florist and Pomol................ The Florist and Pomologist and Suburban tae (T. Moore). London, 1862—1884, vO. Gard. Chron. .........:cceeee The Gardeners’ Chronicle. London (Lindley), 1841—1865. Masters, 1865. In progress. 4to. Gard. Mag... ee The Gardeners’ Magazine. London (S. Hibberd and others), 1854. In progress. 4to. Gard. Mag. Bot. ....0....::.005 The Gardeners’ Magazine of Botany. London, 1853. 4to. Gard. World... The Gardening World. London (B. Wynne). 1885. In progress. 4to. Grartenflora oo... ccccccccceeeseeees Gartenflora. Berlin (Regel and Wittmack), 1852. In progress. 8vo. Gartenzettung ..........cceeceeeee i a (Wittmack). Berlin, 18821886; vO. Gaudichaud, Freyc. Voy. ...... Voyage de la Bonite par Vaillant ; Botanique par Gaudichaud. Paris, 1839—1859. Folio. Gmel. Sibir... eee J. G. Guertin, Reise nach Kamschatka durch Sibirien. Leipsic, 1733—1743, Godefroy, Les Cypripediées ... GopErroy-Lesrur and N. E. Browy, Les Cypri- pediées. Argenteuil, 1888. 4to, Griff. Ic. Pl. Asiat. .....0......... W. Gruirritu, Icones Plantarum Asiaticarum (posthumous). Calcutta, 1847—1854. to. Griff. Not. Pl. Asiat. 0.00... W. Grirritu, Notulae ad Plantas Asiaticas (pos- thumous). Calcutta, 1847—1849, 8vo. LIST OF BOTANICAL WORKS REFERRED TO. xvii Hart. Parad...... Pale Sinamuannianeane Hartincer, Paradisus Vindobonensis. Vienna, 1844—1851. Folio. Henfrey, Gard. Mag. Bot....... See Gardeners’ Magazine of Botany. Hook. Bot. Mise. ........000...00.. W. J. Hooker, Botanical Miscellany. London, 1830—1833. 8vo. Hook. Buot. Fl. occ... cece W. J. Hooxer, Exotic Flora. Edinburgh, 1823— 1827. 8vo. Hook. First Cent. Orch. Pl...... W. J. Hooker and J. 0. Lyons, A First Century of Orchidaceous Plants. London, 1849. 4to. Hook. Icon, Plii...ceccccccceeeses W. J. Hooker, Icones Plantarum. London, 1836. In progress. 8vo. Hook. fil. Ill. Him. Pl. ......... Sir J. D. Hooxsr, Illustrations of Himalayan Plants. London, 1855. Folio. HY. B. K. Nov. Genie... ccceecee Humpotpt, Bonptanp, et Kunru, Nova Genera et Species Plantarum. Paris, 1815—1825. olio. Humb. et Bonpl. Pl. Aequin... Humpotpt et Bonritanp, Plantae Aequinoctiales. Paris, 1808—1809. Folio. LeOn. Ber ol, cscseosine saageeeeaevas See L. K. et O. Icon. Tacquin, AME... eee N. J. Jacquin, Selectarum Stirpium American- arum Historia, etc. Vienna, 1763. Folio. Jenwings, Orchids ................ JENNINGS, Orchids. London, 1874—1875. 4to. Journ. Hort. Soe... The Journal of the Horticultural Society of Lon- don. London, 1846. In progress. 8vo. Journ. Linn. Soe.........-.0000... The Journal of the Linnean Society, Botany. London, 1791. In progress. 8vo. Tourn. of Horton... ccc The Journal of Horticulture. London (Dr. Robert Hogg), 1848. In progress. 4to. Journ. Soc. d’ Hort. Par. ...... Journal de la Société nationale d’Horticulture de France. Paris} 1855. In progress. 8vo. Karst. Awsw. ccc. cccccc ccc ene Karsten, Auswahl Neuer und Schoénbliihender Gewachse Venezuela’s. Berlin, 1848. 4to. Kerner, Hort. Semp. ............ Kerner, Hortus Sempervirens. Stuttgart, 1795 —1830. Folio. Knowles & Westc., Flor. Cab.... KNowLEs and Westcott, Floral Cabinet. London, 1837—1840. 4to. Kuhl et Hasselt, Gen. and Sp. See Breda, Orch. Jav. Orch. Lem. Jard. Flu... ccc Lemaire, Le Jardin Fleuriste. Ghent, 1851— 1854. 8vo. Le Moniteur d’Hort............... Le Moniteur d’Horticulture. Paris (Chauré), 1877. In progress. 8vo. LD’ Her. Sert. Angl. oc... L’Heritiser, Sertum Anglicum. Paris, 1788. Folio. BE’ Hort. Frang. 0.0... ccc cecees L’Horticulteur Frangais. Paris, 1851—1872. 8vo. BETU, FOtte occcrospecartewernecntansnn L’Illustration horticole. Ghent and Brussels, 1864. In progress. 8vo. FM ON is aaa ited saan Shean oi Lindenia, Iconographie des Orchidées. Ghent and Brussels (Linden et Rodigas), 1885. In progress. 4to. b xvili LIST OF BOTANICAL WORKS REFERRED TO. Tnndl. Coll. Bot...........00000065 Linpury, Collectanea, botanica..,. London, 1821. Folio. L. K. et O. Toon. .......cc cece ee Linx, Kuorzscu, et.,Orro, Icones plantarum rariorum horti regii berolinensis. Berlin, 1828—1831. to. Lodd. Bot. Cab. oo... Lopprens, The Botanical Cabinet. London, 1818 —1833. 8vo. ie EAI ‘iho L’Orchidophile, Journal des Amateurs d’Orchidées. Argenteuil (Du Buissonand Godefroy-Lebeuf), 1881. In progress. 8vo. Maund, Bot. ..........:ccccce ees Mavnp, The Botanist. London, 1839—1844. 4to. Moore, Ill. Orch. Pl. .......0.... T, Moors, Illustrations of Orchidaceous Plants. London, 1857. 8vo. --- Orchid AlDWM ......... cence The Orchid Album (Williams’). London, 1881. 10 vols. issued with general Index; vol. XI. in progress. 4to. Orchid Review............cccee The Orchid Review. London (Rolfe and Leslie), 1893. In progress. 8vo. Otto und Diet. Alg. Gartenz... Orro und Drerricn, Allgemeine Gartenzeitung. Berlin, 18383—1854. 4to. Pazton, Fl. Gard. ..........00665 Paxton, Flower Garden (Lindley and Paxton). London, 1850—1853. 4to. Re-issue (Baines), 1882—1884. 4to. Paxton, Mag. Bog............0... Paxton, Magazine of Botany. London, 1834— 1849. 8vo. Pescatoved oo. .cecccceveeeeeeneeees Pescatorea, Iconographie des Orchidées. Brussels (J. Linden), 1854—1860. Folio. Poep. et Endl. Nov. Gen. ...... Porpric et EnpLicHer, Nova genera et species plantarum quas in Regno Chilensi, Peruviano, et in terra Amazonica collegerunt. Leipsic, 1835—1845. Folio. Puydt, Les Orch.........0..0...664 E. pe Puypt, Les Orchidées, Histoire Iconogra- phique. Paris, 1880. 8vo. Redouté, Dil. 0.0.0.6. cece Revovts, Les Liliacées. Paris, 1802—1816. Folio. Refug. Bot. .......ccccc ccc cee Refugium Botanicum (W. W. Saunders and H. G. Reichenbach). London, 1868—1872. 8vo. Rehb. Fl. Hwot. ...........00.0 H. G. Retcuenspacu, Flora Exotica. Leipsic, ; 1834—1836. Folio. Reichenbachia ..................... Reichenbachia, Orchids illustrated and described. St. Albans (F. Sander), 1888. In progress. Folio. : REO AH OP bess Sbvchsnavesguanoumontaus Revue Horticole. Paris (Carriére et André), 1829. In progress. 8vo. Rev. Hort. Belge............0.000. Revue de Horticulture Belge et Etrangére. Ghent (Burvenich, Pynaert, and others), 1875. In progress. 8vo. Rich. Voy. Astr. 00.0... Dumont D’UrviLuz, Voyage au Pole Sud de l’As- trolabe. Botanique par Richard. Paris, 1833. Folio. Rowb. Corom. Plo. Roxsuren, Plants of the Coast of Coromandel. London, 1795—1819. Folio. LIST OF BOTANICAL WORKS REFERRED TO. XIX Rumphia Schneevogt, Icon. Pl. Sert. Orchewecccccccccccccceee cece Sieb. Fl. Jap.......... Sm. Haot. Bot......00.0.00.00 000. Sweet, Br. Fl. Gard.............. The Garden........0.0...0.0.00.0005 Thouars, Orch. Afr. Aubert. ... Thunb. Ic. Pl. Jap. 0.00 oo... Toscana @ Orlte..... cee Trans. Hort. Soc... 00... Veitch’s Man. Orch. Pl........... Vriese, Ill. Orch..........0.00. 66 Wallich, Pl. Asiat. rar. ... ..... Wallich, Tent. Fl. Nep.. ....... Warner’s Sel. Orch. Pl.......... Wight; Leon iced. snare tiocts yeai' Woolward’s Masd............. ... RONG ORNs.) cicaeseucrsnen msgs See Blume, Rumphia. Scunegvoer, Icones plantarum rariorum, Haar- lem, 17983—1794. Folio. Linvuey, Sertum Orchidaceum. London, 1837— 1842. Folio. SreBoLD et Zaccanini, Flora Japonica. Leyden, 1835—1844. Folio. Smiru, Exotic Botany. London, 1804—1805. 4to. Swzet, The British Flower Garden. London, 1823—1829. 8vo. The Garden. London (W. Robinson), 1871. In progress. 4to. Avpert pu Pertir Tuouars, Histoire particulitre des Orchidées recueillies sur les trois iles australes d’Atrique. Paris, 1822. 8vo. Tuunserc, Icones plantarum japonicarum. Upsala, 1794—1805. Folio. Bullettino della R. Societa Toscana di Orticul- tura. Florence, 1876. In progress. 8vo. Transactions of the Horticultural Society of London. London, 1812. In progress. 4to. A Manual of Orchidaceous Plants. London (J. Veitch & Sons), 1887—1894. 8vo. See De Vr. Ill. N. Watticu, Plantae asiaticae rariores. London, 1880—1832. Folio. N. Watticu, Tentamen Florae Nepalensis Ilus- tratae. Calcutta and Serampore, 1824. Folio. Select Orchidaceous Plants. London (Warner, Williams, Moore, and Gower), 1862—1891. Folio. R. Wieut, Icones plantarum Indiae orientalis. Madras, 1838—1853. 4to. The Genus Masdevallia (Miss Woolward and Herr Lehmann). London, 1890. In pro- gress. Folio. H. G. RercHenBacu, Xenia Orchidacea, Beitrage zur Kenntniss der Orchideen. Leipzig, 1858—1889, continued by F. Kranzlin. In progress. 4to. | TT ORCHID EXHIBITION HOUSE IN THE 100 ft. by 22 ft. ( 2 1 | nh) ill | i \ ill i i i | TT Ta VICTORIA AND PARADISE NURSERIES. rom a Photograph.) THE QORCHID-GROWERS MANUAL. INTRODUCTION. HE cultivation of Orchidaceous plants is no longer exclusively the privilege of the few, now that their nature and require- ments are better understood than was the case in former years. ‘This has arisen chiefly from three causes: firstly, from the useful information given us by those who have o studied the plants in their native habitats; secondly, from the G close study and application by means of which cultivators at home have brought the varied observations of travellers to bear in a practical manner on the culture of the plants when introduced into this country ; and thirdly, from the fact having been discovered that many, at least, of the most ornamental species require less heat and less expensive appliances than was once thought necessary, thus bringing them within the reach of a larger constituency. It cannot be too strongly impressed upon the minds of all who send plants of this order home from foreign lands that every scrap of information respecting the climate—temperature, rainfall, altitude—soil, &c., of the locality in which each species is found, is of the greatest importance not only to the scientific observer, but also to the cultivator ; not because we can under cultivation strictly imitate the natural surroundings of each particular species or variety, nor, indeed, do we think that this would in all cases be desirable, but the information would enable us to adopt the treatment most congenial to the requirements 1 2 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. of each, so far as the means at our command would permit. The want of some such information has been a source of extreme vexation to many lovers of these plants in years gone by. For instance, had we received even the most meagre account of the natural physical and climatal surroundings of the many fine things found and collected by M. Warscewicz, and other travellers of the same period, the collections of the present day would be able to boast, as now they cannot, of many fine species which have never since reached this country in a living state. The collections alluded to were sent to Europe in a very careless manner, and without the slightest indications of the conditions under which they had been growing; and, Orchidology being then in its infancy, they were nearly all killed by being subjected to excessive heat, the keeping up of a strong heat being in those days considered the correct course - to pursue with all Orchidaceous plants. Thus hundreds of beautiful species, which had been collected at great cost and risk, and were purchased by eager amateurs at home, oftentimes at high prices, rapidly died out, simply from the prevailing ignorance of the climatal conditions of the localities in which they had been collected. Thus it will be seen, that in order to assist in preventing a repetition of such disasters and disappointments, the experience of those who have had the good fortune to see Orchids growing in a state of nature is of the greatest importance, giving as it does a solid basis to any experi- ments which may be made. Strange as it may appear to some, and ridiculous as it has been pronounced by others, we do not consider it advisable to imitate strictly the natural conditions in which plants are sometimes found, because we have seen so many proofs that, as individual specimens, the cultivated plants are frequently to be seen in greater perfection than those grown in their native habitats. It is, indeed, only reasonable to infer that such would be the case with the majority of small-growing tropical plants, when we consider the struggle for existence which is constantly going on throughout the vegetable kingdom, and remember that they are subject to all the vicissitudes of the seasons; whereas under cultivation extreme care and attention are bestowed upon each individual plant, and no pains are spared to develop its beauties, and shield it from every harm. We admit that we should by all means take nature as our guide for the production of good plants, but it should be nature in her best garb only ; and then, looking as we INTRODUCTION. 3 do upon cultivation as a help to nature, the result can only be an improvement, if success in the object aimed at has been attained. Let us endeavour to make our meaning clear by a familiar example. We have frequently seen some of our indigenous ferns, such as S2olypen- driums, Lastreas, &., growing upon dry banks, stony grounds, and old ruins, where they have presented the appearance of short, stunted, ill-: favoured plants, but still they were in a state of nature. Now, no one would recommend the cultivator to imitate that phase of nature. No— rather would the counsellor say, ‘Go to that shady dell, with the limpid stream flowing through it; there you will see the rich green, fully developed, and graceful fronds of these gems in all their beauty.” This, then, we say is the phase of nature which cultivators should take as their guide, and endeavour to improve upon. We submit that these consi- derations are strictly applicable to the plants we have taken under our special cognizance in this volume, and will exemplify this by an extract from a letter of Colonel Benson. He says—‘‘ Dendrobium formosum does not appear to seek shady places for growth ; in fact, as far as my know- ledge goes, few Orchids do, beyond what is given by the trees when in leaf. During the months of February, March, and April, they are exposed to an atmosphere of 110° in the shade. That the fresh-grown pseudobulbs are by this means reduced in size or shrivelled there can be no question; and in some of the mountain Orchids this reduction takes place to such an extent as to render it doubtful whether they are the same plants when first seen at the end of rains.” Now take the case of these plants under culture; the growing or rainy season past, their supply of water would be gradually diminished, and they would be exposed to the full effects of the sun, with plenty of air, but only so long as they could withstand this treatment without shrivelling ; for, should this condition ensue, or should exhaustion from any other cause arise, the cultivator would step in, and by judicious treatment preserve the strength and consequently the health of the plant, whilst the plants in their native localities must bear the full power of the scorching sun, let even death be the result. Here, then, we say is a proof that art does in some instances assist nature. Nearly all epiphytal Orchids are subject to a period of rest, growth taking place during the rainy seasoa, while their resting period occurs during the dry season. Under cultivation, however, we have to alter 1* 4 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. the circumstances considerably, and make our dry season also the coolest, which is the reverse of what the plants experience naturally ; this, indeed, seems to be the most judicious plan we can adopt, for it would simply be madness to endeavour to force our Orchids to make their growth during the winter months, and rest them during the summer. The best season of rest for the majority of Orchids is from about the beginning of November until the end of February. This long period of drought pre- disposes the plants to blossom, and also prevents them from making weak and sickly growths, which would undoubtedly be the case in the short dark sunless days of our winter. In this place, of course, rules respecting the growth and rest of Orchids can only be stated in general terms, the treatment in detail being given with the description of each particular genus. Then, again, there are certain species which are never entirely inactive throughout the whole year, amongst which may be named some of the Odontoglossums, Masdevallias, and many others whose home is in the Andes of South America and other high mountainous districts. It is often thought that as Orchidaceous plants are so extremely tenacious of life, the fact of their dying can only be the result of care- lessness in their management; but it should be borne in mind that we have under the same roof plants from many different countries, whose natural habitats must vary immensely in most respects. Now, if a little thought is only bestowed upon this fact, it should rather be a matter of surprise how so many plants are successfully managed, than how so many are lost. Orchid cultivators, and indeed all lovers of Orchids, lost a good and valuable friend and instructor in the late Dr. Lindley ; and in this parti- cular branch ‘of botany no one amongst' us has been found competent to fill the void. The late Professor Reichenbach, who was the friend: of Dr. Lindley, was undoubtedly the first authority in regard to nomen- clature of Orchids, but the fact of his labours having been carried on in Germany—no fault of his, but our misfortune—was a great disadvantage to English cultivators. We predicted many years ago that Orchids would be grown for the million. The original portions of this volume were, in fact, brought out in the Gardeners’ Chronicle, in a series of papers entitled “ Orchids for the Million.” It was perhaps presumption on our part to predict what INTRODUCTION. 5 in those days seemed to some people to be utterly impossible. We were often told so after these papers had been published in the Gardeners’ Chronicle, but we were well rewarded by receiving the approbation of Dr. Lindley, who was the greatest authority on Orchids at that time. When we told Dr. Lindley of our intention to bring out the OrcHID- GroweEr’s Manuat, he advised us not to do so, feeling sure, he said, it would never pay; but our intention was fixed, for it gave us unbounded pleasure to write of our favourites, of which we were then as fond as we are now. Indeed, it is to us a source of great satisfaction to do all we can to bring Orchids before the public, and we are glad to find that our efforts are appreciated, and that there is an increasing taste for these lovely and varied plants. All plants require attention, some of course more than others, but these can be as easily cultivated as any; and as some Orchids can now be bought for a few shillings each, they come within the reach of everyone who has a small house, and in such a structure a few of them can be grown with very little trouble and expense. If Orchid collectors will take our advice, founded on many years’ experience, and import the plants at a proper time of year, we should have a good supply, and to spare, and be able to leave some for stock in their native country, instead of sacrificing the whole produce of a district where doubtless plants, and among them new species and varieties would turn up, as there are so many natural hybrids, and sometimes but few of the same type in one locality. We have now in cultivation several species, of which there has only been one importation, such as Aérides Schriderii, Cypripedium superhiens, Cypripedium Fairrieunum, and others we could name, and although our collectors have been in search of these scarce plants, they have not been successful in again finding them. Look at Laelia anceps Dawsonii. Collectors have been to the very spot where this was first found, but we do not think there has been one plant brought home since. Mr. Low’s traveller was the first who brought it, and since then there have been many sold for it, but they have proved not to be the true variety; and although a large number of white forms of Laelia wnceps have heen found during the last few years, some resembling Laelia anceps Dawsonii, yet none of them are so good as the true Dawsonii, neither have they the same breadth of petal and the free flowering quality of that variety. We mention 6 ORCHID-GLOWER’S MANUAL. these facts for the information of our readers, as well as of-importers, in order to show how important it is to try and get home alive all the plants collected, so that the public may have a chance of saving these treasures. This would be better for collectors and importers, as well as buyers; for the present destructive system, or want of system, leads to a loss of capital, and is, besides, an annoyance both to sellers and purchasers. The losses of purchased plants in this wholesale way—plants that will not grow under the best treatment—often stop amateurs from going on with their cultivation. We do not lay all the blame of non-success on the collectors, for there are many other causes which lead to loss even when they are brought home at the right season; for instance (1) they may be injured by damp in the cases; then (2) sea water will affect them injuriously if it gets on them; and (8) sometimes our amateurs and growers do not treat them right when they receive them. Full directions on this important matter will be found in our chapter on the Treatment of Newly Imported Plants. In bringing these introductory remarks to a close, we desire to record our deep sense of the obligations we owe to the many travellers and collectors who have added so largely to our knowledge of Orchids, and who have laboured so arduously and incessantly to enable us to enjoy the beauties of the choicest productions of the vegetable world without meeting the dangers and difficulties with which they have had to contend. We allude especially to such men as Warscewicz, the brothers Lobb, Hartweg, J. G. Veitch, Colonel Benson, O’Reilly, Rev. C. Parish, Pearce, Bowmann, Weir, Hutton, Kramer, Porte, Wallis, Linden, Skinner, Hugh Low, Schlim, Blunt, Roezl, Klaboch, Endres, Chesterton, and many others who might be named did space permit. Many of them, alas! have fallen victims to the fatigues of the undertaking and the pestilential climates to which they have been exposed, thus suffering martyrdom for the cause of horticulture. These were men who had in view the advancement of science, and the enriching of our collections with new forms of plant life; and their example might be followed with advantage by many of the latter day collectors, who, instead of sending home a few plants in good order, allowing the skill of the cultivator to grow and increase them at home, seem determined to exter- minate certain kinds of Orchids from their natural localities, without anyone deriving benefit thereby. When such vast quantities are gathered HABITATS OF TROPICAL ORCHIDS. ri they arrive in this country in an almost putrid state arising from over- crowding and heating; whilst, had a few dozens only been sent, and that with proper care and packing, they would in all probability have arrived in a living state. We are glad to find, however, that latterly collectors are gaining more experience in this matter, both as regards packing and means of transit, and that plants arrive now in far better condition than was formerly the case. And again, more rapid transit to India, the Philippines and other East Indian Islands, to the Mauritius, and Madagascar, &ec., &c., by the opening of the Suez Canal, and the greater speed of our ocean steamers, renders many plants easily come- atable even by those of limited means at their disposal, whilst, on the other hand, there still remain many great difficulties in the transit of plants which lead to their decay and death, more especially is this the case where the plants have to be shipped in some local boat of call which may be weeks before it reaches the port of departure for Europe ; and this delay occurs in the worst of climates for preserving the life of the plants. HABITATS OF TROPICAL ORCHIDS. RCHIDS are divided into two sections, the Terrestrial and the Epiphytal. Those are termed Terrestrial that grow directly in the earth. Such are the species of Orchis, Phajus, Calanthe, Bletia, Cypri- pedinm, Neottia, Goodyera, Epipactis, &c., which all draw their support directly from the ground. The Epiphytal Orchids, such as Aérides, Vanda, Angraecum, Saccolabium, Cattleya, Oncidium, &c., grow on trees and rocks, from which, however, they derive little or no nourishment, on which account they are often called Air plants. These are by far the most numerous and interesting. Some are found adhering to the stems and branches of living trees; some of them delight in elevated situations in lofty forests, while others grow upon low trees. Some occur on rocks and mountains, some on trees overhanging rivers, and some near dripping rocks—the latter, of course, requiring a particularly damp atmosphere to grow in. Those which are found in dense woods, where scarcely any sun can penetrate, require a shady moist atmosphere, whilst those found in more elevated situations do not need so much shade as the last. 8 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. A knowledge of the different habitats of the various species is essen- tial to the careful grower, in order that he may, as far as his means permit, place them in circumstances similar to those in which they make their natural growth; and it is, no doubt, to inattention, or lack of information on this point, that the want of success in the culture of some Orchidaceous plants, by even the most successful of our cultivators, is to be in a great measure attributed. Epiphytal Orchids are found in tropical countries growing on the low grounds or plains, and they are also met with as we ascend the mountains up to an elevation of 14,000 feet above the level of the sea. At this altitude, in New Grenada, Oncidiwm nubigenum flourishes. This is, we believe, the greatest altitude at which these plants are recorded to have been found. Odontoglossum Alexandrae occurs at from 7,000 to 8,000 feet elevation, as does O. luteo-purpwrewm and its varieties, together with Masdevallias, Restrepias, and many others from Peru and New Grenada. At such elevations, as a matter of course, the plants are naturally subjected to a low temperature, an abundant supply of water, and a very moist atmosphere throughout the year, and consequently they cannot endure a resting season or a period of drought under cultivation. But if we turn to the Eastern Continent, we find such plants as Dendrobium chrysotocum, D. Farmeri, D. suavissimum, Aérides Lobbii, Saccolabium ampullaceum, S. giganteum, Cypripedium concolor, Cymbidium tigrinum, &c., all growing at elevations varying from 2,000 to 7,000 feet, enjoying a copious supply of water during their period of growth, and subjected to a very severe resting season. Now, as these plants grow upon the stems and branches of the forest trees, or upon rocks, they must necessarily be exposed to all the breezes that, blow. How reprehensible, then, is the practice of many growers of Orchids in trying to exclude fresh air from their Orchid houses. For the well-being of Orchids, it should be remembered that a free circulation of air is absolutely necessary, as well as an abundance of light; but cold draughts, and also the burning effects of the sun’s rays, must be avoided, for it is not essential to their well- being to be hung up close to the glass, fully exposed to the blazing sun ; indeed, the life of the plants would, under such circumstances, soon be sucked out of them if shading were not provided. There are so-called observers of nature who blame the cultivator for many of his acts, and he has perhaps suffered more wrong at the hands THE SEASON FOR COLLECTING ORCHIDS. 9 of this class of persons upon the matter of shading, than upon any other. We are frequently told that in a state of nature such and such plants grow in most exposed situations—situations open to the full effects of a tropical sun, and that nothing can be more erroneous than the manner in which we use “blinds” for the purpose of keeping away the bright light of that luminary. There are, no doubt, exceptions to this rule; for instance, many of the Eastern Dendrobes, such as D. bigtbbum, D. superbiens, D. Phalaenopsis, D. Williamsianum, D. Goldvei, the Indian D. formosum, &c., we have grown with the best results, without the slightest shade. All we can say in answer to the objectors is that they totally lose sight of the fact that our plants are growing under glass, which has the power of burning up the leaves and thus disfiguring our plants for years, if not for life; and that sunlight under glass is very different to that in the open, where the wind counteracts its burning properties to a certain extent. A little practice would soon teach such persons how erroneous their ideas are on this point, and they would soon sink their so-called natural treatment, had they to be responsible for the effects produced thereby. In leaving this part of our subject, we must add that plant- growers are now keenly alive to the advantage of strong sunlight for their plants, but that they are too practical to allow more than is advantageous to them under the artificial circumstances in which they are placed. THE SEASON FOR COLLECTING ORCHIDS. E are extremely sorry to see the large importations which are sent home in the autumn and winter months, and sold by auction during the cold season, without any regard to the requirements of the plants, or to the interests of the buyers, who are told that the plants have had no cold to hurt them. Such plants, nevertheless, as soon as they reach home, and are housed, lose their leaves, and eventually die. The loss of the money and also of the new and valuable plant, for which a high price has been paid—with a view to secure the best form of some new and rare kind—must be very annoying to the purchaser. If collectors will insist upon sending and importers on receiving these plants in winter, they should keep them in their own Orchid houses 10 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. until they get established, or show some signs of being of use to those who feel disposed to pay handsomely for them. The smaller buyers also have their losses, being assured by those who import the plants that they have had them in their possession, and exposed in their Orchid houses, for so long a time, while the fact is that many are kept from the light. Moreover, when they are sold, it is not merely the cold weather that meets them as they come from their native country, that destroys them, but exposing them at sales and keeping them in cold places, after they have arrived safely. We have seen nearly every plant of an importation lost through this treatment. Take, for instance, the East Indian Orchids, when sold in winter, and to all appearance in good health, having their green foliage upon them, but when they are put into light and warm houses the leaves turn black or brown, and fall off; then the heart of the plant goes, and it becomes quite useless ; whereas, if the plant had been sent home in spring or summer, there would have been a chance of saving it if the leaves had been on it and it had not been exposed to the cold. Such importations are not only a loss to the buyers, but also to the collector, as there are many lots that cannot be sold, and have to be thrown away. There is another great evil attending importations, but this occurs in their native country; the plants are heedlessly torn from their natural habitats, which are sometimes ruthlessly cleared of the beautiful flowers that cannot be replaced in the locality. We are sorry to hear of some of our collectors having so little respect for these treasures of nature’s production that they gather all they can, having no regard for the future, and not even leaving a few plants in the locality to increase and multiply by shedding their seed to germinate naturally over the mountains, rocks, and trees. If this kind of work continues, there will be but few Orchids left, excepting where the collectors cannot get at them. It is to be feared that some of our collectors do not go for the love of the plants, but to make all they can for the time being, heedless as to whether they would be able to get more the following season. Our botanists who from time to time have travelled have gone out for the love of the plants, and in order to gain knowledge of them. These men have freely imparted the information they have obtained to those who have remained at home, by giving a record of their travels, HINTS ON COLLECTING ORCHIDS. ll and by collecting dried specimens of new and old species, as well as living plants, for the extension of our collections, and the increase of our knowledge of the peculiar characteristics of the plants. We are well aware that the demand for them at the present day is very great, there being now a much larger number of collectors. This we can prove by referring to the hundreds of cultivators who have started since we commenced the culture of these wonderful plants—no doubt, because there are no flowers that are so suitable for decorative purposes, and none that give the same amount of pleasure, and last so long when on the plant, or when cut and put in water to be used as an adornment for the drawing-room or the dinner-table. Again, when grown into specimens for our exhibitions, they are always the most attractive objects, and where banks of these plants are staged crowds of admirers are constantly to be found. HINTS ON COLLECTING ORCHIDS. eee are many different ways of importing Orchids to this country. We have seen some that have arrived in good condition, while others have been completely destroyed by not being properly prepared before starting. The first and most important thing is to prepare them for their journey. The next most important matter, perhaps the most important of all, is to start them on their journey at the proper time. Our opinion is, that the plants should be sent away from their native country during the dry season, which is when they are at rest. While inactive their leaves and pseudobulbs are thoroughly ripened and firm, and contain but little sap; whereas, when they are growing the foliage is necessarily tender, and in greater danger of being bruised, a circum- stance which accelerates decay during the voyage. Another reason in favour of dormant importation is, that, if sent in a growing state, or just as they are starting into growth, the young shoots push out while on the journey, and for want of light and air become weak and dwindling, very often dying outright as soon as exposed. We have seen many a fine mass of Cattleya imported with all the leading growths completely rotten, which, of course, greatly lessens the value of the plants as com- pared with those that arrive perfect, and which are just ready to start into growth as soon as they are put into a warm house. In the case of 12 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. those species which grow at considerable altitudes, and have no decided dry season, advantage should be taken of the time when their growth is less active, so that there may be less inducement for them to start into growth before reaching their destination. Plants which on arrival have pushing pseudobulbs are also apt to lose their leading eyes, an accident fatal to some Orchids, for many do not break well, if at all, from old bulbs. The species of Aérides, Saccolabium, Vanda, Angraecum, Phalaenopsis, and similar plants that have no fleshy bulbs to support, are best imported after they have become established on flat pieces of wood, so that they can be nailed to the sides of their travelling cases. We once received a con- signment of Orchids from Manilla, including amongst other fine plants some beautiful examples of Phalaenopsis Schilleriana, P. rosea, P. amabilis, P. intermedia, Aérides quinquevulnerum, and Sauccolabwum violacewm, all established and sent off in the way just described; they had evidently been growing some time before they were started for this country, for on arrival their roots adhered firmly to the wood, and many of their leaves were as green as though they had been in an Orchid house, instead of having made such a long sea-voyage in a glass-topped case. One point of importance is to take care to secure the plants well to the sides of the cases; because, if allowed to roll or swing about, they get bruised and soon rot, which is very vexing after all the trouble and expense bestowed on importing them. In the case of the Phalaenopsis Schilleriana just referred to, some of the pieces of wood had become loose, and these from rolling about during the journey had caused injuries. In such cases, if any leaves are bruised during the journey, the best way is to cut them off at once before decay begins; for if allowed to go on, there will be danger of the whole plant being destroyed. With the cases just alluded to, we received also a close box filled with Phalaenopsids packed in the dry bark of trees, which is a very bad material for such tender-leaved plants, for when unpacked there was not a green leaf to be seen; the shaking of the rough packing material during the long journey had destroyed all the foliage. If these had been packed firmly in very dry soft moss, they would most likely have travelled safely. We have received plants in in good condition from India in close boxes, packed in dry soft wood shavings; while on the other hand many have been entirely spoiled in that way. The cause of failure we attribute to HINTS ON COLLECTING ORCHIDS. 13 their not being packed in a proper state; the plants themselves, as well as the material employed, should be well dried before packing, and care should be taken to avoid bruises, which often prove fatal. Cattleyas and plants with similar pseudobulbs we have received in close boxes from Brazil, packed in dry shavings, and have found them, when opened, in good condition; but care had evidently been taken to pack them firmly so that they did not shake about in the boxes on their journey. Odontoglossums travel best when tied upon sticks of wood, which should be securely fastened in the cases. The best time of year for receiving Orchids in this country is, if possible, the spring, in order that they may have the summer before them in which to get established. With the Anoectochili the best way is to tie some moss round their roots and stems to keep them firm, leaving the foliage free just above the moss; they should occupy a small case by themselves. These little things are very tender, and therefore require a great deal of care to import them alive. On arrival, pot them in some dry soil (see ANOECTOCHILUS), and put them in a close place with little heat at first, until they begin to grow; afterwards pot them separately in small pots, and place them under hand-glasses or in a frame, giving them the treatment usually recommended for this class of plants. Cases in which Orchids are sent home ought to be made strong, and if glazed, roofed with good stout glass not easily broken ; for we have often found plants spoiled by the glass being fractured. Through an accident of this kind, salt water and cold air may get in, both of which are very injurious. All cases should be air-tight and water-tight, except a round hole at each end near the top, covered with wire gauze inside and out, to allow the damp air to escape. To prevent the glass being broken, the best thing to place over it is some strong iron wire, or perforated zinc, or stout and broad wooden bars. The sash bars ought also to be made very strong, and the case must not be placed during the journey too near heated surfaces or fires in the ship. We have seen many boxes of plants spoiled by being set in such positions, the leaves being completely dried up. They ought to be placed in a moderately warm situation, but by no means near any fires or boilers. Many plants also arrive in this country in a dead or dying state, from the effects of full exposure to the rays of the sun; this, however, may be obviated by simply painting the class 14 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. white inside, but it must be allowed to become thoroughly dry before being fastened down. During the last few years an immense quantity of Orchids have been sent to this country, a large proportion of which have proved to be dead upon arrival. This may perhaps be assigned to several causes, but the rapacious appetite of the collector is the principal one, the boxes being overcrowded by his sending home thousands instead of being satisfied with a few dozens, and as a consequence all have arrived dead. Another probable cause of this loss is, that they may have been gathered at the wrong season. ll this is sad to contemplate, involving as it may do the extermination of the plants in their native homes, besides loss of time to the collector, which, combined with the loss of money, causing vexation and disappointment to the trade cultivator at home, have a most depress- ing influence upon Orchid growing. These deplorable results might be avoided if collectors would be satisfied with a less number of plants, and would attend to the few simple rules given in this chapter, adapting them to suit the circumstances in which they find themselves placed. RISKS OF COLLECTING ORCHIDS. HERE is no doubt that there are many conditions, sometimes peculiar ones, under which Orchids can be successfully grown; and much has yet to be learned regarding their requirements, the methods of cultivation to which they may be subjected, and the amount of endurance they possess. The treatment they receive after their arrival from their native habitats is also to them a matter of importance. Before they come into our hands, they are found growing in a perfectly natural way, without human aid, having, of course, their native climate to enjoy, receiving heavy moisture by night, which they absorb and store up for their immediate sustenance, and being also favoured with a rainy season as well as a dry one. These different conditions of course exactly meet their wants in their growing and resting seasons respectively. It must be a delightful sight to witness them growing and flowering in this natural way, throwing off their sweet perfume to the breeze, while the roots cling to the branches and stems of the trees where they abound, and in which situations they multiply by means of the seeds scattered RISKS OF COLLECTING ORCHIDS. 15 from the withered seed-pods. This seed in process of time germinates and forms young plants which finally get established on the branches, and there the fallen leaves, settling among their roots, by feeding impart to them new vigour, thus preparing them to enter upon and endure the alternating season of drought. Their foliage helps to direct the natural moisture and to retain it about the roots, which are thus enabled to grow more freely, and to fasten themselves securely to the branches and stems of the trees on which they become located. In their native habitats Orchids have many drawbacks to their growth; they have insects, as we have in our houses, but far more numerous; and they have the extremes of weather to contend with. The plants are generally found on the high trees at the margins of the forests, where they are subject to rough winds and furious storms ; in fact, large trees are often blown down loaded with the beautiful blossoms of the plants growing on them, and are frequently destroyed in this way. The stock, however, is generally maintained by the seedlings, which are found to be much more abundant in some localities than in others. Some species on the contrary affect low trees and shrubs, oftentimes sending their roots down into the damp soil beneath. It often happens that, when being removed from their native resorts, the plants are injured by the collectors and by the natives whom they employ to gather them from the high trees and other places difficult of access. They are frequently packed in sacks and transported on the backs of mules, in order to reach the sea-port for shipment; and the native men who help to pack them are very indifferent as to how the bulbs and foliage, which require so much care, are handled. The voyage these plants have to undergo is often very detrimental to them. Sometimes they are placed on a part of the vessel where they get too much dry heat, or where they may get the salt water on them, and these injuries often cause them to rot, or the very life to be shrivelled out of them. A good proportion of the importations, however, seem to endure, -- notwithstanding the treatment they receive after their arrival here, though passing through hands that have no love whatever for them beyond the hope of selling them to the best advantage, and that care little or nothing for the bruises they sustain, or for the bulbs that get broken. After all this they thrive well in many cases. This shows us that when the plants are in a dormant state, rough treatment is not so 16 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. injurious, but in this case the eyes must be plump, and then, when placed in a warm house where there is some moisture, they will soon make plants with fine bulbs, and they may also flower. If the plants are allowed to make growth on their journey, they will generally be found to damp or rot off; and although some Orchids which have strong bulbs produce plump eyes from the back bulbs, and will break away freely, yet in the case of the delicate kinds their offshoots will break weakly and pine away. Such as these require close watching, which those who delight in their pets will not fail to bestow on them, and there is then a chance of saving them. Our ways and means of imitating nature are very limited, but we do succeed in very many cases, although so large a number—hundreds of them—are lost through the rough treatment of which we have spoken, and for which there is really no help; for in the plants’ native countries our collectors have to undergo much hardship and privation in order to secure for us these floral gems, and many brave lives have been lost in the endeavour to do so. Some of our most clever botanists and collectors have sacrificed their lives in endeavouring to procure for us these treasures ; hence to those who have survived and still persevere to send us new consignments, we owe many thanks. No one knows the trouble and expense of collecting Orchids but those who have gone or sent out men in search of these precious plants; they deserve all they get and more for the risk they run, since their attempts are frequently fruitless, for it often happens that after collecting for months the plants are all lost, not through their neglect, but from unavoidable mishaps and unfavourable conditions. For example, the cool Orchids have to come through hot countries before they are shipped, and then long delays often occur to lengthen the time taken by the voyage. Again, when coming from a hot climate they often reach this country at the cold season. In fact, none but those who are at the expense of importing Orchids from these distant lands have any idea of the risks incurred. Another risk to which importers are subject relates to the sale of the. plants; many have to be sold privately, others at public auctions. If they are new and fine species they generally sell well, and should there be buyers for that particular class, they frequently realise a fair sum, whilst many other good kinds may be sold at prices which are not sufficient to pay the expenses of getting them home. New species may RISKS OF COLLECTING ORCHIDS. 17 turn up in these importations, and of these the buyers get the benefit, instead of the collectors, who do not see them in bloom when collecting so as to be able to pick out the grand varieties that sometimes turn up, and are often worth more than the whole collection has been sold for. This is where the purchaser reaps the benefit. Of course, on the other hand, there is risk in buying imported plants, since there are many that do not turn out as represented, for which the collectors are often blamed ; and no doubt they are wrong in some cases, being deceived by the similarity in growth of different species, which can only be correctly determined when in bloom. Or in other cases a few plants only may be in flower, and the collector concludes that all growing there are alike, the foliage being of the same character, and the plants being sold as such, the unfortunate collector gets blamed for sending the wrong plant, though without-his knowledge or intention. On the other hand there have been cases where plants have been sold under wrong names and accompanied by wrong descriptions, through the ignorance of the collector, who does not know the species he is describing. There are not very many collectors of the present day who have a thorough knowledge of Orchids ; and those who have not should get some one well acquainted with the species they have brought home to name them for them if possible; or if not known they should be sold without a name, by which means the buyer takes his chance, and the collector gets no blame. Those who have carefully studied the Orchids, and are acquainted with their peculiarities, can usually tell the species, unless it be some- thing new, that has not come under their notice before ; even then it is often possible to give a very good guess, especially if the genus that it belongs to, the country it comes from, and such other points as become familiar to an observant eye, are known. The old adage, ‘‘ Knowledge overcometh difficulties,” justifies itself in this case. There are persons who have grown Orchids but a few years, and who think they know more than those who have had large collections always under their charge, and who are acknowledged to be close observers of the different species and varieties, and who besides have had the opportunity to become acquainted with all the old Orchids as well as the new ones. There is, if Orchidists would only admit it, a great deal to be learned from cultivators of these plants, as almost every person has some ideas of his own upon the subject, and these ideas can often be adopted by others with good results. 2 18 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. We are sometimes apt to think we can easily pick out the different varieties of families by their general aspect, but experience teaches us otherwise ; we may be able to do so with some kinds, but it is quite a chance, a great deal depending upon the locality and the situation in which the specimens are grown. In some places the bulbs will be short, in others quite different. Cattleyas and Laelias, for instance, are often brought home grown in this way, which makes it difficult to distinguish them, and there are also other kinds of Orchids, such as Odontoglots, to which the same remark applies. Sometimes a particular species may have dark-coloured bulbs, and at other times light green ones, and yet be of the same variety with the same flowers. ‘This adds to the difficulty of identifying the different kinds. In the case of Odontoglossum Alewandrae there are some bulbs that will enable the observer to tell if the varieties are likely to be good as to form and size, but one cannot tell the colour. There are no doubt localities where the best species and varieties have been observed to abound, and when this is the case bad kinds very rarely appear in these spots, even through insect agency. Collectors should endeavour to avoid sending home the bad strains of these plants. Many of them are acquiring more knowledge of the Jocalities where the best varieties are to bé found, and they begin to see that the good forms pay the best, since they take up no more room than the bad ones, and buyers are willing to pay more for them instead of growing the poor varieties, of which there are so many sold in auction rooms. Even purchasers now appear to know more than they did of the quality of the plants by the appearance of the bulbs, though sometimes they are dis- appointed. On the other side there is the chance of picking up new ones among those which are not considered to be of the right sort, so that it is advisable not to destroy any until they have flowered; even then, if the plant is weak, though the flowers may be poor, yet if there is form and substance in them, it is best to grow them on and flower them again, and then it is more than probable they may be approved. ORCHID TREATMENT DURING GROWTH. 19 ORCHID TREATMENT DURING GROWTH. Ww have in our Orchid houses plants from localities which vary much in every respect; some of them, moreover, produce their flowers early in spring, others in summer, and others again during the dull days of winter. It will therefore be readily understood that the period of starting into growth should vary also; but as for convenience sake we rest as many of our Orchids as possible in winter, because the days are cooler and shorter, the majority will begin to push up their young shoots as soon as the days lengthen and the sun gains increased power. This being the case, when the growing season commences, the tempera- ture of the East Indian house—the house in which the greatest heat is maintained—should be increased to 65° by night and 70° by day, while by sun-heat it may be allowed to range up to 75°. As the days lengthen, so the temperature may be permitted to increase; and during the months of May, June, July, and August, it should range from 70° to 75° by night, and from 75° to 80° by day, or by sun-heat up to 85°, or even: 90°, which will not do any harm, provided the plants have plenty of air,. and are shaded from the direct rays of the sun. Great attention should, at the same time, be paid to the state of the atmosphere, as regards. moisture. At all times of the year this is of much importance to the successful growth of the plants, since they derive the greater part of their subsistence from moisture in the air. Wherever, therefore, any of these plants are growing, the atmosphere should be well supplied with moisture, which is obtained by pouring water over the tables, walls, and paths of the house every morning and afternoon; this causes a nice moist heat to rise, which is of great value whilst the plants are in a vigorous state of growth, especially as regards the East Indian Orchids, such as Aérides, Saccolabiwm, Vanda, Phalaenopsis, Dendrobium, Cypripedium, and many others requiring a high temperature, with a considerable degree of moisture. The Brazilian Orchids, many of which come from a cooler climate than the foregoing, and one not so highly saturated with vapour, of course require less heat and less moisture, but these should also have a considerable degree of warmth during their growing season; conse- quently the houses which are devoted to the Brazilian plants and to some of those from Mexico, should be artificially heated to about 60° by o* 20 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. night, and from 65° to 70° by day; and as the days lengthen the temperature may be allowed to increase, so that during the months of May, June, July, and August the night heat may range from 65° to 70°, and by day from 70° to 85°. Of late years we have had so many additions to what are called Cool- house Orchids, that it is quite necessary there should be added another house specially for their cultivation, and which we may call the New Grenadan and Peruvian house. A plan of such a house will be found at page 45. This will accommodate a great number of plants from various high mountain districts, which may be grown together under the same treatment. We do not recommend ordinary greenhouses for Orchids, for our belief is, that very few Orchid growers will long uphold that treatment; and although we are told by collectors that many of the species of epiphytal Orchids are found in localities where the temperature falls so low at times that the plants are. frequently covered with hoar frost, we do not think it expedient to subject them to such cool treat- ment in this country, neither is it possible for flowering greenhouse plants and Orchids to exist and do well in company with each other, for their requirements in atmospheric moisture are so different, that one set of plants or the other must fail. The house we recommend for the Odontoglosswms and other genera and species that come from similar regions, and, consequently, require the same treatment, is precisely the same as others, only it must be kept at a lower temperature, say from 45° to 55° in winter, and from 50° to 65° in summer. This house should be well shaded from the sun with raised blinds (see p. 45), which will help to keep the heat down, as too much heat is dangerous for these cool Orchids. We have seen cool Orchids tried in nearly every aspect, in some instances with sad results, but we consider the very best: house for the cultivation of the plants is one having a northern aspect, and the finest plants we have ever seen were to be seen insuch an one. No fire- heat will be required in summer except on cold or wet days and nights, the object of then having recourse to artificial heat, being to keep the house from getting too damp, dampness without the proper degree of warmth being very detrimental to plants of this order. There are but few Orchids that will do without heat altogether, except those that come from North America and other cold climates, and these will be treated on in a chapter by themselves. ORCHID TREATMENT DURING REST. 21 ORCHID TREATMENT DURING REST. S the time of starting into growth varies considerably with different kinds, so also, as a matter of course, will the season of rest, although with but few exceptions it comes on during the autumn months. Rest, it has been elsewhere stated, is of great importance to Orchids, as well as to other things, indeed no plant will continue long in good health without it. Our practice is to give them a long season of rest, generally from November to the middle of February. During this time the temperature of the East Indian house should be regulated so as to keep it as nearly as possible at 60° by night and 65° by day, though by sun- heat the temperature may rise a few degrees higher, but air must then be given so as to keep it about 65°; a few degrees of solar warmth above this point will, however, do no harm. A little air should be given on every fine day, in order to dry up the moisture; but the air must be admitted so as to pass over and between the hot-water pipes, so that it. may become warmed on entering the house. In the case of those plants. that come from the hotter parts of India, the temperature should not be allowed to go below 60°. The Brazilian house, which may also include all the species from the warmer parts of Mexico, should range from 50° to 55° by night, and from 55° to 60° by day; this should not be allowed to go below 50° at night. The New Grenadan, or cool-house, should not be allowed to get below about 45° at night. Rest is induced by lowering the temperature, and withholding water. During this period the plants should only receive sufficient water to keep them from shrivelling. There are, however, some that will grow during the winter months, amongst which may be enumerated many species of Aérides, Vanda, Saccolabium, Phalaenopsis, Zygopetalum, Laelia, Cattleya, and similar genera. These will require water at the roots to keep them increasing, but care should be taken not to wet the young shoots, for if they get wet they are very apt to rot. Those that are growing should be placed at the warmest end of the respective houses, giving all the light possible. Some Orchids are deciduous, losing their leaves after they have finished their growth. To this class belong Cyrtopodium, Catasetum, Barkeria, Cycnoches, Thunia, Chysis, some of the species of Dendrobium, Calanthe, Pleione, Guleandra, and many others. These should be always 22 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. so placed that they may have as much light and sun during their season of rest as possible. This is the only way to ripen their pseudobulbs, which causes them to grow stronger, and to flower more freely. When at rest the previously named kinds require but very little water, but when those without pseudobulbs like Vanda, Angraecum, Aérides, Saccolabium, and Phalaenopsis are at rest, they should never be allowed to get too dry at the root; the moss about them should always be kept a little damp, for the stems and leaves are very apt to shrivel if kept too dry, and this often causes them to lose their bottom leaves. Moreover, they require but a short season of rest. Those which are growing on blocks will require more water than those which are in pots or baskets, and if the weather be fine, should be watered about twice or three times a week, just so as to keep them moist, but in dull weather they will not require watering so often. Water should be poured over the paths and walks every fine morning, with a view to create a moist atmosphere, but the moisture in the house must be regulated according to the weather outside—a very important factor in the details of management. Thus, if the weather be dull outside, the house must be kept rather drier inside. The glass and roof should always, especially in winter, be perfectly clean, so that the plants at that season may have full light and sun. It is our practice, as soon as the season of rest commences, to wash every pane of glass in the house, both inside and outside, and also the wood and brickwork, for cleanliness is one of the main points to be kept in view to ensure good results. ADAPTATION OF TREATMENT TO SURROUNDING CONDITIONS. dues is more variation in the localities in which we are placed 4 than most of us imagine. In some parts of the country a nice pure mild atmosphere prevails during the greater part of the year, while in others there is a large proportion of cold and wet. There are ‘other localities in which our plant houses are placed where they are exposed to high and cutting winds, and others in which they are sheltered on the side of a hill, or in some valley surrounded by hills and trees, on the south side of which they get the full benefit of the ADAPTATION OF TREATMENT TO SURROUNDING CONDITIONS. 23 sun and light all the year round. Of course plants located under the latter conditions have a greater chance of making robust growth, if they get suitable treatment, than those differently situated. When plants are grown near large towns, where they have to contend with fogs and smoke during the autumn and winter months, it is often found that there is also a moister atmosphere to contend with during the season in which we get but little light and sun, in conse- quence of the shortness of the days; in such cases this difference of climate must be guarded against, and the degree of moisture must be carefully studied so as to suit the different genera under cultivation. The rule we lay down must be followed—namely, to be guided by the conditions of the locality and its surroundings, and also by those of the locality in which the plants are found growing in their native country. A great deal depends upon attention to these apparently simple points; and those who study their own localities, and the vari- ation of climate to which they may be subject in different parts of the country, will find themselves more successful in their efforts to achieve good results. There is also a great deal dependent on the positions in which plants are placed in our Orchid houses. They will often be found to thrive better in one part of the house than in another. This is found out by experience and persevering observation. If a plant does not do well in one spot try it in another, and when a suitable place is found let it alone. It is astonishing how differently various plants will thrive in different houses, whether it be Orchid houses, stoves, or warm greenhouses. We have found this out by reason of want of space in our Orchid houses compelling us to place certain plants in houses having a different temperature, and in which it has turned out that they have succeeded far better, made better growths, and bloomed more freely. When — we find they succeed in this way, we keep them under these con- ditions, treating them otherwise according to their especial wants. It must be the same with all plant growers. If success is to be obtained, the requirements of the plants must be studied, and the cultivator should never be satisfied until the requisite point for the particular plant to be dealt with has been gained. Always take notes of any successes which have been attained, and never think because 24 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. you have been successful that the plants will do by themselves and require no further care or study to keep them up to the same standard of health. Some persons seem to think that if they have grown their - plants well once they can do so again without further trouble, but this is a great mistake; the same forethought and attention must be given as before; and we find that there is always something to be learnt by even the most successful of Orchid growers. One thing we have always endeavoured to avoid, and that is following the advice of different cultivators; no doubt there is something to be learnt from all by all, but the advice should be cautiously taken. We have seen growers rush into new methods of treatment at once without studying their own appliances, their locality, and their surroundings, and the result has often proved to be failure. Even when one hears of new ideas which are to result in the accomplishment of some extra- ordinary success, it often happens that before the task is finished the failure is complete. The reason of this failure is hard to tell; they have overdone the matter, or have not kept up the treatment once practised, or there has been some change in the temperature, or in watering the plants, or perhaps insects have been working mischief. There are so many reasons for failure that it is difficult to tell which may apply in each individual case. TREATMENT OF NEWLY-IMPORTED PLANTS. wh unpacked these should have every leaf and bulb sponged over, and all the decayed parts removed—not torn off, but cut clean off with a sharp knife. There are many insects that harbour about Orchids, such as the cockroach, and different kinds of scale, all of which are great pests. When cleaned they should be laid on dry moss and placed in some part of the Orchid house, where they are shaded from the sun. Water must be given very sparingly at first, as it is liable to rot them ; too much of either light, heat, or moisture is at first very injurious. If they are put in moss or peat it should be gradually moistened, and when they begin to grow and make roots, they should be potted, or put on blocks or in baskets, but care should be taken not to have the pots too large, over-potting being dangerous. TREATMENT OF NEWLY-IMPORTED PLANTS. 25 We find it a still better plan to fill the pots nearly full of broken potsherds and charcoal, and to place the plants on the top of this until they begin to grow and make fresh roots. We have treated them-in this way now for some years, and find the plants start much better, and they can be supplied with more moisture without fear of rotting them. By having recourse to this method they plump up much sooner, and break more freely, and the water passes away without becoming stagnant. After the plants have well started a little rough peat or sphagnum moss mixed with charcoal may be placed upon the crocks. By the addition of charcoal the soil is kept sweet and open, in addition to which the roots will cling to it. If baskets are preferred the plants can be treated in the same way in them. If placed on blocks they require to be put in a moister atmosphere and to be often syringed, as they will of course dry up sooner than if in pots or baskets. We have also found hanging up the plants in a moist house, without anything about their roots, a good plan where room is scarce ; they will break freely in this way, but they are inconvenient to move about, as the roots get broken. As soon as symptoms of growth are observable, those which come from the hotter parts of India should be put at the warmest end of the house, but they should not have too much moisture when first starting into growth. Those which come from the more temperate regions should be kept in the coolest part of the house. They should not be permitted to stand in the way of drip, as this frequently rots the young shoots as soon as they appear. Such plants as the species of Vanda, Saccolabium, Aérides, Angraecum, Phalaenopsis, &c., we place so that the heart or crown hangs downwards, in which position no water can lodge about them. They should hang for about a fortnight, and may after- ~ wards be put in pots, on blocks, or in baskets, with crocks until they begin to grow, when some moss should be placed about their roots; but they must have but little water until they begin to grow, and make new roots, after which they may be treated in the same manner as established plants. This is much the safest mode of treating these valuable Orchids on their first arrival in this country. Always be careful to keep the sun from them until they show signs of growth. ‘26 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. TREATMENT OF PLANTS IN BLOOM. i ease are many Orchids that when in flower may be removed to a much cooler house than that in which they are grown, or even to a warm sitting-room. The advantage of keeping the plants during their period of flowering in a cool and dry atmosphere, rather than, as is frequently the case, in a hot and moist house, is, that in the former case the flowers last much longer than they do when retained in the warmer and moister atmosphere. Perhaps there are not many culti- vators who have studied this point more than we have done, and we have never found the plants to be injured by this treatment. Some imagine that if they are put in a cool place they will suffer damage ; but this has not occurred in our experience. During the time they are in a room or cool-house, the temperature should not fall below 50° at night ; the room or house should be kept quite dry ; and before they are removed from the stove they should be put at the coolest end of it; or if there are two houses, those that are in the hottest should be moved to the cooler one for a few days before being taken into the room, and they should be allowed to get nearly dry, that is, they should, while in the cool apartment, receive but very little water—only enough to keep the roots moist. We prefer to have a house or easily accessible compartment set_ apart for the reception of flowering Orchids, where during their flowering : season they can be treated according to their special requirements. If they are kept in the growing house they soon become spotted, and the damp injures the flowers and causes them to decay. We have such a house, and find it a great advantage for prolonging the flowering season. The following are a few of those which we have tried in a sitting- room during the months of May, June, July, and August. We have kept Saccolabium guitatum in this way for five weeks, and Aérides affine for the same time. Aérides odoratum, A. roseum, and some of the Dendrobiums, as D. nobile and D. coerulescens, we have kept in a room for four or five weeks. Dendrobium Linawianum, D. superbum, D. pulchellum, and D. Wardianwm, last a much longer time in bloom if they are kept cool than if in a high temperature. Various species of Brassia, Oncidium, Epidendrum, Odontoglossum, Cyrtochilum, Trichopilia, and Mawillaria, with Lycaste Skinneri, L. aromatica, L. cruenta, Aspasia lunata, and all GROUP OF ORCHIDS, ARRANGED WITH FERNS AND FOLIAGE PLANTS IN THE VICTORIA AND PARADISE NURSERIES. Irom a@ Photograph, ON MAKING ORCHID BASKETS. 27 the Cattleyas and Laelias, succeed well in a cool room or house, in which their flowers keep fresh for a much longer time. We have kept Laelia majalis in a cool room for four or five weeks, and ZL. flava, under similar circumstances, will also keep a much longer time in blossom than if left in the warm house. When the flowers begin to fade, the plants should be taken back to the Orchid house, where they may be placed at the coolest end, with plenty of shade; they should be kept in this position for about ten days, for if they are at once exposed to the sun they are very apt to become scorched. Those flowers which it is desired to preserve should not in any case be wetted, as this will cause them to become spotted, and they will then soon decay. This is a very important point. ON MAKING ORCHID BASKETS. LOCKS and baskets are most naturai receptacles for growing the true air plants, such as Vanda, Saccolabium, Aérides, Angraecum, Phaluenopsis, &. When planted in baskets or on blocks, these send out their roots much more vigorously into the air, and suck up the moisture, whereas, if their roots are covered too much, they are very apt to rot. Various materials are used for forming baskets. Sometimes they are made of copper wire, which is very durable. Others are made from the ordinary material in use for making flower pots—these are very good indeed, and have a neat appearance. We have some very good ones of this description; they are round, about six inches deep, with holes in the bottom, and made of the ordinary pottery clay ; they are, moreover, very useful, as they last a long time, and the plants do well in them. We have also for some years used small earthenware pans of different sizes for many kinds of Orchids with very beneficial results ; they have three holes in their sides, and are attached to the roof of the house by means of wires; they are deep enough to allow of sufficient drainage to be put in them, as well as peat or moss, and we find the plants do well in them, much better than on blocks, as they do not dry up so quickly. We have saved many delicate plants in this way. We, how- 28 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, ORCHID BASKET WITH ORCHID BASKET, EXTENDED ENDS. ORDINARY SHAPE, THE BOAT. SMALL ORCHID JHE CYLINDER, THE BASKET, F ss ON MAKING ORCHID BASKETS. 29 ever, prefer generally those made of wood, on account of their rustic appearance, and besides, the roots like to cling to the wood. We have found teak wood to be the best for making baskets, as it is hard and durable. The best baskets are those of square shape, made of proportionate even-sized rods without the bark, of which we give some sketches on page 28. The wood should be cut into short lengths according to the size of the basket required. They should not be too large, for there are objections to this: one is, they take up much space, and again the plants do not require much room, as a basket which is of a large size admits of too much soil about their roots. After the wood is cut into proper lengths, the pieces should be bored within one inch from the ends, taking care to have all the holes bored at the same distance: there should be four lengths of copper wire, one for each corner, and this wire being fastened at the bottom, should be put through the hole in each piece of wood, and be afterwards brought up to form the handle for suspending the plants from the roof. Copper wire only should be used in making baskets, for any other is probably injurious to the plants. Cylinders, rafts, boats, &c., made of teak, as shown on page 28, are now largely employed in Orchid culture. The best kinds of wood for blocks are teak, acacia, apple, willow, pear, plum, maple, hazel, or cork. The wood should be cut into lengths suitable for the size of the plants ; some copper nails should be driven in at each end, to which should be fastened copper wire to form the handle ; wind the wire round each nail, and leave the handle about ten inches high. Small copper nails, driven in on the surface of the block, serve, by means of copper wire, to fasten the plants on to the blocks. There are some imitation blocks made of pottery ware which are very neat, and last a long time, but it is questionable if they are so congenial to the plants as wood. The great advantage of growing Orchids on blocks or in baskets, ig that of being able to get the plants near the glass, where they may reap the full benefits of sun and light. 30 URCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. POTTING EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS. HEN the season of rest is over, many Orchids will require re-potting, but in our practice we have not confined ourselves to that time only. No season can absolutely be determined on as the proper one for this operation. The months of February and March—that is, after the resting season, just before they begin to grow—are very suitable for potting some of them, or for those Orchids which start at a later period of the year this operation may be retarded. Those that do not require potting should be top-dressed with good fibrous peat and moss, the old soil being removed from the surface without breaking the roots of the plants. This operation affords the means of getting rid of many insects which harbour in the old soil or crocks. The pots should be thoroughly cleansed from the mould, moss, and dirt, which are too often seen covering them. Cleanliness is one of the greatest aids in the successful growth of Orchids. Previously to potting, the plants should not receive any water for four or five days. Some species should be potted at a somewhat later period, that is, just as they begin to grow. All the species of Phajus, Calanthe, Dendro- bium, Stanhopea, Oyrtopodium, Brassia, Miltonia, Sobralia, Bletia, Oncidium, and many others, require this treatment; whilst those of Laelia, Cattleya, Saccolabium, Aérides, Vanda, and similar plants, should be potted. just before the commencement of their growing season. The chief point to be attended to in all potting is that the pots should be well drained, the best material for drainage being potsherds or charcoal. Before potting, be particular to have the pots perfectly clean and dry, inside and out, and the broken potsherds should be washed. After this is done, select a pot in accordance with the size of the plant, but do not give too much pot-room. Some plants require shifting once a year, while it may not be necessary to shift others oftener than once in two or three years. Ifa plant becomes sickly or soddened with wet, the best way to bring it back into a healthy state is to turn it out of the pot or basket, and wash the roots carefully with some clean tepid water, cutting off such of them as are dead; and then to repot it, not giving it much water till it begins to make fresh roots. The best pots are those in ordinary use. Some employ slate pots, but they are not so good for Orchids as those made of clay. POTTING EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS. 31 In preparing the pots for large plants a small pot should be turned upside down in the bottom of the larger one, filling in around it with potsherds or charcoal broken up into pieces about two inches square for large plants, and using smaller pieces for smaller plants ; then introduce potsherds till within three or four inches of the rim, and afterwards put on a layer of moss to prevent the peat from settling down and impeding the drainage, and preventing the water from passing off quickly. This is of great importance, for if not attended to, the water will become stagnant, and the soil sodden, which is fatal to the health of the plant. The grand point to be observed in the successful culture of Orchids, as well as most other plants, is good drainage ; without that it is hopeless to try to keep the roots long in a healthy condition, and if these fail the plant goes with them. The best material to be used in potting the different kinds of epiphytal Orchids, when grown in pots, is a mixture of good rough fibrous peat and live sphagnum moss; during the last few years, however, we have seen surprising results from the use of the roots of the common Polypody (Polypodiwm vulgare), and having frequently used it to plants in our own collection with equally good effect, we would recommend its use to the attention of our readers who are desirous of bringing their plants to the greatest perfection, especially Odontoglossums, Cattleyas, and Laelias ; the Polypodium roots should be cut up small and mixed with about half the quantity of sphagnum moss. The drainage material must be covered with some living sphagnum moss, in order to prevent the soil perco- lating into the cracks and checking the drainage. After the layer of moss is applied, fill up the pot to the top with this mixed compost, and bear in mind not to press the soil too closely, for we believe too firm potting to be very injurious. The peat should be broken into lumps about the size of a hen’s egg; and we always use broken potsherds or charcoal mixed with the peat. The plant should be set so as to be two or three inches above the rim of the pot, taking care to have the base of all the pseudobulbs above the soil ; then put some peat and moss on the top of the roots so as to cover them, inserting a few small pegs in the soil to keep it firmly on the pot. After the plants are potted fix a stick in the centre of each, to keep it firm. In shifting, carefully shake away all the old soil without injuring the roots. After potting, which should be done in the same way as recommended below for basketing, 32 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. be careful not to give too much water at first ; but when the plants begin to make fresh roots they may have a more plentiful supply. The best material to be used for basketing the East Indian kinds, such as Aérides, Vanda, Phalaenopsis, Saccolabium, and similar growing kinds, is sphagnum moss and broken potsherds. The basket should be suited to the size of the plant; it should not be too large, for it will not last more than a few years if made of wood, by which time, probably, the plant will require shifting into a larger one. There should first be placed a layer of moss at the bottom of the basket, then a few potsherds, and then the whole should be filled up with moss and potsherds mixed. Take the plants carefully out of the old basket, without breaking the roots, remove all the old moss, place the plant on the new material, about level with the top of the basket, fix a stick in the centre, to keep it firm, cover the roots neatly with a layer of moss, and finish off by giving a gentle watering. Those plants that require billets of wood to grow upon should have live moss attached to the blocks, if by experience they are found to require it. Some species, however, do better on bare blocks, but they need more frequent waterings, as they are then almost entirely dependent on what is obtained from the atmosphere. The plants must be fastened firmly on the blocks, by means of copper or galvanised iron nails, which are to be driven into the block, and then, with copper wire, the plants must be firmly secured to the surface of the wood. As soon as they make fresh roots they will cling to the block, and the wire may be taken away. POTTING TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS. d hapa require a stronger compost than the epiphytal kinds, but do not need so much drainage. They should be potted just when they begin to grow, after the resting season. The compost we prefer to use for many of them is turfy loam chopped into pieces about the size of a walnut, leaf mould or peat, and a little rotten cow manure, all being mixed thoroughly together; but again there are many kinds which require the soil to be composed of loam and limestone, and indeed, will not grow without it, and this has been the cause of failure with many of MODE OF PRODUCING BACK GROWTIIS. 53 the terrestrial species; others again, peat loam and leaf mould and sand. The plants require good-sized pots; in the bottom of them put about two inches of drainage, on that a layer of moss, next some rough peat, and then the compost just mentioned, on which place the plant so as to be about an inch below the rim of the pot ; then fill in with the com- post, making it tolerably firm about the roots. Water sparingly at first, but by the time the young growths are some six inches high the plants will enjoy a good supply. MODE OF PRODUCING BACK GROWTHS. | Reape are many of our Orchids that grow on year after year, and yet produce only one flowering pseudobulb annually ; but some of the kinds, if the plants are cut, will produce back shoots or breaks, thus increasing the number of blooming growths, and the sooner making fine specimens. ‘This is the way to produce such specimens as are to -be seen from time to time at the London and provincial exhibitions. Some plants, such as Cattleyas, may be more readily treated in this way than others. The operation is thus performed :—Take a plant that has back pseudobulbs, some four or five it may be, and cut the rhizome in two between the bulbs, not otherwise disturbing it, but allowing the bulbs to remain in the same place. The best time to cut most Orchids is during their season of rest, or just as they are beginning to grow. Any other Orchids that have pseudobulbs may be treated in the same way, when it becomes desirable to increase them, but it must be borne in mind that no Orchid should be cut except when in vigorous health, and not then except it is to produce back growth. The resting season is best for performing the operation, as when in vigorous growth they often produce two growths from the same pseudobulb, and continue doing so year after year, thus increasing in size rapidly, and in time making a fine specimen. When this is the case, if it is required to increase the stock of a particular plant, take off a piece just as it is starting into growth. The plant taken off can be potted at once, and placed in a shady place until it shows signs of growth, whet it may be brought to the light. Many Orchids do not like to be disturbed, while there are those, some much more so than others, which readily submit to this treatment. Q 3) 34 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. WATERING ORCHIDS. dias operation should be performed with great care, especially in the case of plants just starting into growth, for if watered too profusely the young shoots are-apt to be affected by the atmospheric moisture, and become liable to what is termed damping off. Whilst, therefore, the shoots are young, only enough water should be given to keep the moss or peat in which the plants are growing just moist. As they advance in growth, more may be given; and when the pseudobulbs are about half grown the roots may receive a good supply. This, however, will greatly depend upon how the plants are potted. If potted according to the directions laid down in this book the water will pass away quickly, which is very essential to the well-being of the plants. We have known Orchid growers try many kinds of potting material, but have never seen any to succeed better than rough fibrous peat and living sphagnum moss, and the roots of the common Polypody; by using these materials as recommended, there is less liability of the plants suffering injury. Some growers use fine soil, mixed with sand and moss: this we consider bad for epiphytal Orchids, because it soon gets soddened and consolidated round the roots—a condition exceedingly obnoxious to this class of plants, which are not subjects to be tampered with. When plants are potted in this fine soil they require less water, and will also need the soil to be frequently renewed, but to this system we are entirely opposed. Our practice is to shut up the Orchid house in the spring of the year about 8 p.M., and in May, June, July, August, and September about an hour later, when the heat of the sun is on the decline. We then usually give a gentle syringing with water as nearly as may be of the same temperature as that of the house. In fine weather, the temperature from sunheat will rise frequently as high as 95°, or even more; but we have never observed any injury to befall the plants in consequence of this heat, so long as the house was saturated with moisture. The atmosphere should be dried up once a day, if possible, by means of ventilation. In syringing be careful not to wet the young shoots too much. The syringe should be furnished with a fine rose attached, so as to cause the water to fall on the plants in imitation of a gentle shower of fine rain; but this syringing should only take place after a hot sunny day, and should never be carried to excess, for we have seen the ill effects of that practice WATERING ORCHIDS. 35 in many Orchid collections. The practice is indeed very dangerous, and growers often wonder at their plants not looking well, when it is entirely due to over-syringing. Nevertheless, water, judiciously applied, is one of the most important items in the culture of these valuable plants. Those of them which are growing on blocks of wood should be syringed twice a day in the summer time; and we also find it beneficial, during the growing season, to take the blocks down about twice or three times in a week, and dip them in water till the surface of the wood and the moss are thoroughly soaked. Plants in baskets should likewise be taken down and examined, and, if they are dry, they should also be soaked in a similar manner. This is a good mode of getting rid of many hurtful creatures that harbour in the moss, such as the woodlouse and the cock- roach, which, when the moss is plunged and kept for a while under water, will come to the top, and then may be easily killed. We have elsewhere observed (Orchid Album) that “rain water is the best for Orchids and for all kinds of plants, this being the water supplied in their natural habitats.. Rain water is easily to be obtained by pro- viding tanks under the stages, and allowing the rain water to enter from the roof. In this way no room is lost. A pump should be affixed, in case the water should get low in dry weather, by which means it can be easily raised to the required height. The plan we adopt is to have a deep cemented tank in the centre of the house under the stage, so that the top may be open; this allows the water which is standing in the tank to become somewhat warmed by contact with the atmosphere of the house, which is very beneficial. In fact, Orchids should never be watered with water that has not had the chill taken off, as cold water, especially in winter time, causes spot, and may rot the growths, and injure the roots. Into this tank the rain water runs from the roof, and as we have the New River Company’s water laid on as well, when rain water is scarce we fill up with this, and thereby have a mixture of rain and hard water. ‘There can be no doubt that Orchids, like other plants, are particular as to the fluids given to them to nourish their roots. We often hear growers say that the water obtainable in the particular locality where they reside is hard, and that their plants do not thrive as they should do. We can fully sympathise with these men, as we know that hard water is bad for Orchids as well as for other plants. Hard-wooded ° plants, 3* 36 ORCHID-GROWER'S MANUAL. especially, will not thrive if the water they receive does not suit them ; but it must be borne in mind that these plants have fine hair-like roots, and are much sooner killed than Orchids, which have thick fleshy roots. When conversing some time ago with an Orchid grower from the North of England, who told us that his plants were not doing well, that he could not keep the sphagnum moss alive, which he attributed to the use of hard water, and that he consequently put up a cistern for rain water, and employed that, we were not surprised to hear that the result had been to improve the health of the plants, and that the moss was now growing luxuriantly. “There is a great difference between different hard waters; some contain a quantity of iron, while others contain lime; these latter when used for syringing leave white marks upon the foliage. We believe water containing chalk and lime to be beneficial to some kinds of Orchids, especially Cypripediums, in fact, some growers use chalk or broken lime- stone mixed with charcoal and peat to grow them in, and they succeed very well in it. We have frequently seen- distinct traces of lime on imported Cypripediums. An importation of Cypripedium Spicerianum, received some time ago, was literally covered with lime deposit, owing to the plants having been found growing in the fissures of limestone rocks, where the water trickled down upon them. We should think that water containing iron would be most injurious to Orchids.” Rain or pond water is the best for the plants, but if this cannot be obtained, and water from a spring must be employed, it should be well exposed to the influence of the atmosphere before being used; it should also be allowed to standin the house for a considerable time, previously to its being required for the plants, so that it may become warmed to about the same temperature as the atmosphere in which it is to be used. This indeed should be done in all cases. Slate cisterns are very useful for collecting the rain water which falls on the roof; and such cisterns on each side the house placed over the hot-water pipes will keep the water at the same temperature as that of the house. If there is not room for the slate cisterns on the pipes, a cement tank under the centre table will answer the same purpose, and should have a hot-water pipe run through it, if possible, so as to keep up the temperature of the water, which is a very important point in maintaining the healthy growth of the plants. PROPAGATION OF ORCHIDS. 37 Over watering is very detrimental to nearly all the species of Orchids in cultivation. It must be remembered that although in their native habitats they get a great deal of rain during the growing season (which is generally the rainy season), it is very different in our houses, where they are closely confined, and evaporation does not take place to such an extent as it does in their native homes, where they are found growing on trees and rocks and on the ground. In these positions they get all the winds that blow, and which after a shower quickly dry up the super- abundant moisture. More Orchids are lost by over watering than many people imagine ; and although they may not show it at the time, it tells upon them afterwards in the shape of disease. . PROPAGATION OF ORCHIDS. HERE are different modes of propagating the various kinds of Orchids. Some are easily increased by dividing them into pieces, or by cutting the old pseudobulbs from the plants after the latter have done blooming; such plants as Dendrobiums are increased in this way. The best time for dividing the plants is just as they begin to grow, or when they are at rest. They should be cut through with a sharp knife between the pseudobulbs, being careful not to harm the roots ; and each piece should have some roots attached to it. After they are cut through, they should be put into some shady part of the house, without receiving much water at the roots till they have begun to grow and made fresh ones; then they may be parted, potted, and have the regular supply. Dendrobium nobile, D. Pierardti, D. Devonianwm, D. Falconerti, D. superbum, D. Wardianum, D. crassinode, D. superbiens, D. bigiblbum, and sorts of similar habit, are easily propagated. This is effected by bending the old pseudobulbs round the basket or pot in which they are growing ; or by cutting the old flowering bulbs away from the plant, and laying them on some damp moss in a shady and warm part of the house, with a good supply of moisture. In either case, they will break and make roots and new shoots, after which they may be potted or put in baskets. Such kinds as D. Jenkinsii, D. aggregatum, D. formosum, D. speciosum, D. densiflorum, D. thyrsiflorum, D. suavissimum, and similar growing sorts, are increased by simply dividing the plants. 38 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. The species of Aérides, Vanda, Angraecum, Saccolabium, Camarotis, Renanthera, and plants of similar habit, are propagated by cutting off the top just below the first root or by taking the young growths from the base of the stem ; the latter, after they bave formed roots, should be cut off with a sharp knife, and put on blocks or in baskets with some sphagnum moss, and kept in a warm and damp part of the house, without receiving much water till they have begun to grow, when they may have the usual supply. The Odsntoglossums, Oncidiums, Brassias, Cyrtochilums, Zygopetalums, Sobralias, Trichopilias, Stanhopeas, Schomburgkias, Peristerias, Catasetums, Miltonias, Lycastes, Bletias, Laelias, Cattleyas, Galeandras, Epidendrums, Barkexjas, Cyrtopodiums, Cymbidiums, Coelogynes, Calanthes, and the species of Mormodes, Leptotes, Cycnoches, and Coryanthes, are all propa- gated by dividing them into pieces, each having a portion of roots attached to it, and a young bulb or growing point. Such plants as Calanthe Veitchtt, C. Turnerit, and C. vestita, often produce bulbs on the top of their last year’s growth, which can be taken off after they have done blooming, and put into sand or some other suitable material until potted in the ensuing spring. Thunia alba, T. Bensoniae, T. Marshalliana, and similar growing kinds, are very easily increased. The best way is to cut off the old pseudobulbs after the young ones have begun to flower, that is, just before the plant has made its growth. These pseudobulbs should be cut into pieces about six inches long, and then put into a pot in some silver sand, with a bell-glass over them, till they have struck root and begun to make their growth, when they should be potted in some fibrous peat and moss, and should have good drainage to carry off the water required in the growing season. Some of the Lpidendrums, such as EL. cinnabarinum, E. crassifolium, Hi. evectum, and similar growing kinds, which form plants on the tops of the old flower stalks, are easily propagated; the young ones should be left till they have completed their growth, and then be cut off and potted, when they will soon make good plants. Some Dendrobiwms will also form plants on the tops of the old pseudobulbs, and they should be treated in a similar way. RAISING ORCHIDS FROM SEEDS. 39 RAISING ORCHIDS FROM SEEDS. wee Orchids have recently been raised from seed in this country ; yet it was not until within the last few years that cultivators succeeded in raising seedlings of these singular subjects. At the present time the number is considerable, and we are every day becoming more familiar with seedling varieties and hybrids which have been raised in English gardens. To Mr, Dominy, Mr. Seden, Dr. Ainsworth, and Mr. R. Warner belong the credit of producing some of the very beautiful hybrid forms of this order, which are now in cultivation. Several other cultivators are now exercising their talents in the sarhe direction, amongst whom may be mentioned Sir Trevor Lawrence,Bart., Mr. Cookson, Mr. Bean, Mr. Drewett, Mr. Ingram, Mr. Measures, Mr. Mylam, Mr. Osborne, Mr. Tautz, Mr. Winn, and many others who have made a goodly addition to the hybrid plants now in cultivation, and there is unquestionably a large field open for all who take an interest in hybridising this singular and beautiful tribe of plants. Some very fine Catileyas, Laelias, Dendrobiums, and Cypripediums, have been raised by the Messrs. Veitch & Sons, and great credit is due to the energy they have displayed in this branch of Orchidology. Many of these seedlings are very free-growing, but it will be several years before they can be generally distributed, as they are so slow in propagation. We now refer more particularly to Cattleyas and Laelias. Some time ago a gentleman remarked to us that he should like to be in a country where the Orchids grew in a wild state, in order that he might have the chance of hybridising them; his ideas were, that something really good might thus be obtained, and no doubt he was right, for considering how seldom it is that we flower two Orchids alike, it may be concluded that many of our imported plants, though taken for the same, are natural hybrids or seminal variations, and of this we have a good illustration in a hybrid Vanda raised by a lady at Singapore between V. Hookeriana and V. teres. We have seen at least two dozen varieties of Cattleya Mossiae in bloom at one time, some having white petals and rich crimson lip, others rose- coloured petals and yellow lip, but all differing more or less from each other. In fact nearly all the species of Orchids yield varieties. Four flowers taken from four different plants of Phulaenopsis amabilis were 40 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, once brought to us, and no two of them were exactly alike. The same may be said of Phalaenopsis Schilleriana, of which we have seen many plants in bloom, varying much in the colour of the flower and in the shape and markings of the leaf, all however being handsome. In a wild state, varieties appear to be unlimited, crossed and recrossed, as they doubtless are, by insects. Who, for instance, would have thought, in years gone by, of importing so splendid a plant as Phalaenopsis Schilleriana, which is beautiful not only in blossom but in foliage ? Then came P. Stuartiana, P. leucorrhoda, P. violacea, and many others ; and we are told there exists a still finer species, with scarlet flowers! Let us hope the latter will soon be added to our collections; what a contrast it would make with the white and mauve coloured kinds now in cultivation! Mr. Dominy and Mr. Seden have succeeded in raising many choice varieties of Cattleya, Calanthe, Cypripedium, Coodyera, Dendrobium, Masdevallia, and have succeeded in crossing different genera, &c.; Mr. Mitchell has raised the fine Dendrobium Ainsworthi, Mr. Cookson has raised the lovely Phajus Cooksoni, Dendrobium Venus, and many good Cypripediums, Mr. Bleu the lovely Cattleya calummata and Miltoniopsis Bleuana; and some Cypripediwms have been raised by the late Mr. Cross, formerly gardener to the Dowager Lady Ashburton at Melchet Court. Let us hope these hybridists and others may persevere in the good work, and produce something new in other genera. Many kinds seed freely if the flowers are fertilised, and they produce many seeds in a pod. The seed, having been gathered as soon as ripe, should be sown at once, but it requires great care, as it is not so easy to raise as that of many other plants. Some of the kinds are a long time germinating ; we have known Orchid seeds to lie twelve months before the plants make their appearance. It is highly interesting to watch their gradual development, from the tiny germ to the first small pseudobulb, and so on up to the flowering stage. The best place in which to sow the seeds is on the top of an Orchid pot, where they will not get disturbed, and where the peat or moss is in a rough state; do not cover the seed, but give a little water with a fine rose pot, just to settle it. The rough blocks of wood on which another plant is growing also afford a capital situation to sow upon, but the surface should always be kept a little moist. After germination, those which were sown on pots should RAISING ORCHIDS FROM SEEDS. 41 be placed in small pots quite close to the inside edge, and when the plants get strong enough, they may be potted singly in the material already recommended, or be placed on blocks. In potting and taking them up, great care must be used not to injure the roots. We also think it is quite a wrong practice to lift and to pot these seedling plants separately, when they are too small, for they cannot use the soil, and before they have gained sufficient size to do so, it becomes sour and soddened, thus necessitating another change, which is injurious to the plants. One of the surest roads to success in hybridising is to select the finer species or varieties only for experiment, though it is possible that there may exist in a flower of inferior merit some quality which would induce the operator to undertake its improvement, or endeavour to transfer the desired feature to some more favoured kind. It is highly desirable that many more growers should turn their attention to the raising of hybrids, not only with the view of obtaining finer flowers than we already possess— though that would be a real advantage ; but for the additional purpose of raising sorts that might succeed in cooler houses. Odontoglosswim grande and many others, for instance, do better in a cool-house than ina warm one; how desirable it would be to communicate this quality to others. Cypripedium insigne will thrive well in a greenhouse, and if we could cross this with some of the other kinds, such as C. superbiens, O. hirsutissinum, C. Lowi, or OC. barbatum superbum, something good might be the result. There are also several hardy Cypripediums, such as C. macranthum, C. pubescens, and C. spectadile, which might be induced to play an important part in the operation. At least, the several hybrid Cypripediums which have flowered in the establishment of Messrs. Veitch fally bear out our argument. Phajus grandifolius and P. Wallichwi are likewise two noble plants for winter decoration, which do well in a warm greenhouse, and may probably be the means of producing some very ornamental plants, if crossed with various Calanthes. Since the publication of the sixth edition of this Manual, numerous Orchid growers have been turning their attention to the raising of seedlings, and quite a host of beautiful new kinds have been added to the long list of garden favourites. 42 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. ORCHIDS FOR ROOM DECORATION. T YCASTES thrive admirably in a cool-house, L. Skinnert for instance, which is one of the finest, and of which many splendid varieties are now cultivated. This plant is reported in the Gardeners’ Chronicle to have been kept in a room in flower for seven weeks. We, ourselves, have had plants of this Lycaste all the winter ‘in a cool-house, where they have flowered in great abundance, as many as from thirty to fifty blossoms being open at one time. Indeed, we exhibited a plant of it at one-of the Regent’s Park spring shows with as many blossoms on it as we have just mentioned, on which occasion a medal was awarded for its magnificent flowers and colour. Particular care must be taken, however, to keep the flowers dry when in a cool-house or room, or else they are apt to become spotted. “Tycaste Skinneri,” says the Gardeners’ Chronicle, ‘‘ seems about to have as great a future as the Tulip. Already something like a dozen varieties of colour are known among its exquisitely beautiful flowers, and we can entertain no doubt that it will break into plenty more, especially if recourse be had to hybridising. From deep rose to a tint only less white than the Hawthorn we have a complete set of transitions, and this is a plant conspicuous for its fine broad foliage, and glorious in its ample floral garments. It is not, however, wholly on account of its disposition to reward us by an endless variety of colour, and perhaps form, that we wish to draw attention to Lycaste Skinneri, but because of all tropical Orchids it is one of the hardiest in constitution and most easy to cultivate. This has been very decisively shown by some experiments of the late Mr. Skinner, to whose untiring energy we English owe this and many other treasures. In a note received from him, he writes as follows :— “On the 2nd February, 1861, I received from Mr. Veitch a fine specimen with seven flower spikes all out, and took it to Hillingdon Cottage, placed it on the drawing-room table in an ornamental pot, and gave it every three days or so about four tablespoonfuls of water, occasionally wiping the leaves with a wet sponge when the dust got on them.’ There this plant stood throughout the severe weather we had—a: fire in the room only during the afternoons and evenings, and on some days none at all. It never showed the least decay until the 16th May, when it was for some purpose or other put into the greenhouse, and our ORCHIDS FOR ROOM DECORATION. 43 gardener sprinkled water over it along with the other plants. Next morning I was shocked to see the flowers all with brown spots and withering. On the 18th May I took it back to Mr Veitch, still in full bloom (seven spikes), to bear testimony to its condition, and it lasted, though then much injured, a week on the stand by the seed- room in their place. This experiment induced me to try again. On the 18th December, 1861, I brought down to this place two fine plants of the Lycaste, and two plants of Barkeria Skinneri, both in full bloom. Having been absent (with the exception of three days in January) since, I have had no control over them, but my sister followed the same plan as at Hillingdon, only with the Burkerias, which are attached to blocks, dipping the whole block into the water for a few minutes every four or five days, according as we have much or little sun, and as the plants are now before me I give you their condition. One of the Barkerias is as perfect as the day I brought it here; the other has all gone off within the last few days. One Lycaste is perfect, and as beautiful as the day I brought it here ; the other has lost one flower, I fear by some accident, the other flower still good, but evidently a little ‘shady’; this plant has two flower stems coming on, and would bloom in a fortnight if we pushed them by more moisture. I expect frost has got on it after watering, for it stands close to the window in the drawing-room, and this room, though smaller, is similarly treated to the one at Hillmgdon—fires in the after- noon and evenings, with a southern aspect. What a treat to me is this, and I think you should know it, for people have said—‘I love Orchids, but hate the stew-pans one has to view them in.’ “Tt is clear that for Dycastes and Barkerias ‘stew-pans’ may be dispensed with. Plenty of Orchids like these are to be found in our gardens, brought from the Highlands of Mexico and from Central America. It is also probable that mountain species of India, such as the delicious Coelogynes, will thrive under the same treatment, and, if so, one more class of enjoyments is provided for the lovers of flowers. “Surely this is news worth telegraphing through the whole horticultural world! What a charm for a sick-room! What a pet for the poor invalid who has nothing to love except her flowers! Imagine the pleasure of watching the buds as they form, visibly enlarging from day to day, until they reach the slow unfolding of the perfect blossom, and then the delight at seeing it some morning, stimulated by even a 44, - ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. winter’s sun, suddenly throwing back its green cloak and displaying the wondrous beauty of its richly tinted lining. It is almost worth being ill to enjoy such a scene.” Since the late Mr Skinner wrote this there has been quite a change in Orchid growing. Large quantities of the cool growing kinds have been introduced, so that now persons possessing only a pit or small greenhouse with a little heat in winter can indulge their tastes in the possession of some of these beautiful and most interesting plants. All these might be kept in rooms while in flower. Encouragement like this must surely add new life and vigour to Orchid growing. We hope that as a consequence many may be induced. to try their skill. The great secret is to secure robust growth in summer, when there is plenty of sun heat in our greenhouses ; but for further and particular instruction, we must refer to the notes on the cultivation of the Lycaste, and to the chapter on the Treatment of Plants in Flower. ORCHID HOUSES. [ is not absolutely necessary to build a house for the cultivation of Orchids, for in many cases they are grown most luxuriantly in pine stoves, or in houses principally devoted to flowering and ornamental- leaved plants. Where only a few plants are cultivated, such a plan is by. no means objectionable, for we have found many of our Orchids do well in such houses, which fact has only been discovered by those who have been compelled to have recourse to such means. Where, however, a large collection is to be cared for, it is quite essential that houses should be specially set apart for them, and in our opinion the best houses are those with span roofs facing east and west (see page 45). Ground plans and end sections of such houses are here given. The largest sized span-roofed house should not be more than ten or eleven feet high in the centre, seventeen or eighteen feet wide, and about a hundred feet long, with two glass partitions to separate it into three compartments—one for plants that come from the East Indies, which ought to be nearest the boiler, the second for those that come from Brazil, and therefore require an intermediate temperature, and the third for the Mexican species, which ‘ydnsboqoyd Vv wou ‘o[ Ags TeINJeT B UT posuvIIe syURTG OA0ZS WIA podno1id spryoig Jo yooHa oy} SuLMyY ‘ANINYSD 3d ‘W SLWOO 37 ‘W JO 1vaS AHL ‘AONVYS ‘ATMANOD LV ASNOH GIHOYO ORCHID HOUSES. 45 < 000d aoe oi rg (ae ee | GROUND PLAN AND SECTION OF COOL ORCHID HOUSE, SHOWING MODE OF FIXING RAISED BLINDS, GROUND PLAN AND SECTION OF ORCHID HOUSE, 46 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. require plenty of heat and sunlight. There should be upright sashes on both sides of the house, with glass from twelve to fifteen inches high, but not made to open. Many Orchid growers object to side sashes, and sometimes recommend brickwork up to the spring of the roof, but that is not, in our opinion, the best plan; on the contrary, we would advise any one about to build an Orchid house to have upright sashes on both sides and at each end. For cool Orchids either a span-roofed structure or a lean-to may be used. Ifa span-roofed house be decided upon, the same height of ridge should be given as that recommended for Brazilian and Mexican kinds, but it need not be so broad, say about twelve feet, having two side tables with a path up the centre, and two rows of pipes on each side, with side ventilators in the brickwork made to open, as well as top ventilators. We give a plan and section of such a house on p. 45, to explain more fully what we recommend. From experience we have found that Orchids do best with abundance of light, which is the only way to ensure good strong ripe pseudobulbs fit for flowering. Small houses of the size recommended are best. In different parts of the country there exist large lofty houses, but in no instance have we seen plants growing well in them ; such houses require a great amount of fire heat to keep them at the proper night tempera- ture; Cattleyas and many other Orchids do well in them, but the sized house here recommended is more suitable for the gardens of amateurs about towns. We have used single roofs for nearly forty years, and have always found them to answer well, but a few years ago double-roofed houses were adopted by many Orchid growers. In no instance did any improvement in the health of the plants take place, but rather the contrary, the result being that after a time the system was abandoned, it having been found (in some cases by dearly bought experience) that double-roofed houses were a complete failure. We never had faith in the double-roofed house ; and it appeared to us strange that growers of these valuable plants should adopt such new ideas before they had been well tried on a small scale by those who understood the treatment of this race of plants. The houses in our Nurseries are of the size recommended above, and no Orchid houses ‘could answer better. They have been built and used more than thirty years, and are well worth inspection. They afford ORCHID HOUSES. ‘47 plenty of room for the plants to show themselves to advantage, and they have likewise roomy paths, which is a great convenience, for nothing is more unpleasant than not being able to inspect the plants with ease and comfort. The inside dimensions of these houses are forty-five feet: long, eleven feet high in the centre, and eighteen feet in width; there is in each a table six feet wide up the centre, and a path all round three feet wide, with side tables three feet wide, formed of slate.. The floor is concreted, three inches thick, and then covered with Portland cement and sand, which forms a capital surface. The whole is heated by hot water, distributed in four rows of four-inch pipes on each side in the East Indian house, and three rows in the Brazilian house, and each having valves to stop or turn on the water as required. On both sides of the Orchid houses are upright sashes, as recommended above, glazed in the manner as set forth in the chapter on Glazing; there are three venti- lators on each side in the brickwork, close to the hot-water pipes, and one at the-end over the doorway. ‘There are four small top-sashes, two on either side, which open with hinges, and are furnished with ropes inside to draw them up and down; these are found very desirable to let out the over-heated air. These ventilators have been in use for several years, and are found very useful ; for if cold wind blows from the one side the other can be opened, so that the chilly air, which is very injurious, does not reach the plants. Complaints have been frequently raised against Orchid houses, on account of their excessive heat and moisture, which quite prevents the enjoyment of the beautiful flowers grown in them. This objection has now lost much of its force, because we grow Orchids in a much cooler temperature, yet in the case of the Hast Indian house there is still some truth init. The evil, fortunately, is one which can be readily remedied. To that end a small house should be erected for, or a small division at the end of each Orchid house assigned to, Orchids in bloom, or a portion of the conservatory should be enclosed, as is recommended in the chapter on the Treatment of Orchids in Bloom. Here, with some ferns and a few other ornamental-leaved plants as a background, the blooming Orchids should be placed, and here they may be enjoyed to the full, since the place may be kept quite cool, so that while the most delicate constitution will receive no injury, the blossoms will remain much longer in perfection. This system is adopted by many cultivators of Orchids, and is a source of 48 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. great pleasure to them, By an arrangement of this kind the beauties of such plants as Calanthe vestita, Limatodes rosea, the Pleiones and plants like them which are destitute of leaves at the time of flowering may be greatly enhanced, as the ferns and other plants can be made to hide the deficiency ; and in summer the Orchids in flower will retain their full beauty for a much longer time, if kept well shaded and cool. This system of decoration is well carried out by Mr. O. O. Wrigley, of Bury. A long span-roofed house, which forms an entrance to the other houses, is devoted to this purpose; it has a central path, with a table on each side, and the blooming Orchids being brought here and intermixed with ferns, flowering and ornamental-leaved Begonias, Poinsettias, Euphoriias, and many other plants, according to the season, the effect produced is charming. GLAZING OF ORCHID HOUSES. N the houses already referred to, the 21 oz. English glass is used, being the best for the purpose because not easily broken. The squares of glass in the roof are two feet six inches long by nine inches in breadth ; those in the upright sashes at the sides are fourteen inches long by nine inches wide. The laps are very close. We remember seeing an Orchid house much injured after a hail-storm, a large portion of its valuable contents being nearly spoiled; in this instance the glass used was only 16 oz., whereas, if it had been 21 oz., it would most likely have withstood the storm. We therefore recommend 21 oz. glass, or even a heavier kind, as not being likely to get broken by cleaning or otherwise. Too large squares are bad, as they are apt to get broken by frost. The upright glass at the sides ought to be of the size stated above, to correspond with that in the roof and also in the ends and the door. The sash bars should have a small groove down them to carry the condensed moisture to the bottom, in order to prevent it from dripping on to the plants. Or small pieces of zinc nailed to the bars serve to form a sort of gutter to carry off this moisture, and thus prevent drip, which is very injurious to the plants in cold weather; even when the weather is warm the foliage may be injured, and a deal of harm may be done by drip. HEATING ORCHID HOUSES. 49 HEATING ORCHID HOUSES. | ie effecting this, nothing is better than a hot-water apparatus. We recommend four-inch pipes, and to put in an excess of piping rather than too little. There is nothing saved by economising the piping, and it is far better to spend a little more money for material at first, than have to make additions afterwards. By having plenty of pipe a less rapid combustion is required, which is bettcr for the plants, and the expense is saved in fuel in a very short time. We therefore advise four rows of pipes on each side for the East Indian house, three for the Brazilian, and two for the house devoted to those species from New Grenada, Peru, and some parts of Mexico; by having four pipes for the plants requiring most heat, one does not require to drive the fire so much on a frosty night. Wenever raise steam from the pipes ; for plenty of moisture can be obtained without it, by pouring water on the tables and paths, which we consider much better than steam discharged on the plants direct from the hot-water pipes. At the same time, we do not by any means condemn the use of evaporating troughs during the summer months, for these will diffuse throughout the house a most congenial moisture, highly beneficial to the growth of the plants, and the effects of this moisture is very different from that of scalding steam. The boiler should be placed outside of the house, and not set under- neath, which is a very bad system. We remember going to see a collec- tion of Orchids where the boiler was so situated, and had been put there to economise heat. The plants were growing very freely at the time, and upon remarking that we should be afraid of smoke getting into the house, we were told there was no fear of that, “for the boiler was well covered over.” Only a few months afterwards on calling to see the same collec- tion, we found our fears were realised ; the smoke had got into the house, and had spoilt many of the plants. This is merely mentioned to show the ill effects of a boiler being so set that smoke can get into the house. When outside there is no fear of such a disaster. There is more importance in the setting of a boiler than many people imagine, and there are many ways of effecting the operation. Itis, how- ‘ever, always best to secure the services of a good bricklayer who has had experience in setting the different kinds of boilers, as they for the most part require different treatment. Many a boiler has been condemned 4 50 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. through its being badly set, and the work having been indifferently carried out. There is another important point in connection with boilers, i.e., they should be kept clean, and the flues freed from soot and dust, which not only greatly impedes the draught but diminishes the heating power. Care should also be used in stoking the fire, fora good deal of fuel may be wasted by injudicious management, more especially as some kinds of boilers do not take as much fuel as others. The man in charge, if he takes a proper interest in his work, will however soon become acquainted with the requirements of the different boilers under his management. Hot-water boilers are now made of numerous shapes and patterns, and as most cultivators have some predilection in this matter, we leave them to make their own selection. There are, however, many things to be thought of before deciding this question. If the locality is such as to render it impracticable to dig far down into the ground before reaching water, or to prevent a drain from being put below the boiler, then the upright form of boiler is neither suitable nor safe; for in cases of flood during winter, the water may rise and put out the fire unless the stoke- hole is made watertight, which is usually a troublesome and expensive process. We, however, by no means depreciate boilers of this type. Then we have cannon boilers, tubular boilers, common saddle boilers, terminal saddle boilers, tubular arched saddle boilers, double L saddle boilers, Gold Medal boilers, improved tubular boilers, Cornish boilers, cruciform boilers, duplex compensating boilers, and boilers that require no setting, the makers of each and all being able to give what are to them satisfactory reasons why the particular form they adopt is the best. That we have this diversity amongst boilers is no doubt a great advantage, for one that may work admirably in one place, may not, through some peculiarity of place or position, be so thoroughly satisfactory in another. Moreover, the fuel most readily available in one place, and which may suit one class of boiler, may not be so readily obtained in another place, and therefore those who are so situated will naturally have recourse to a boiler adapted to consume the fuel which they can obtain for heating it. When a good draught can be obtained we have found anthracite coal the best fuel for most kinds of boilers; it is more lasting than coke, is smokeless, and gives out twice as much heat, and is altogether a cheaper and much better article, although more costly in the first outlay. VENTILATION OF ORCHID HOUSES. 51 VENTILATION OF ORCHID HOUSES. d lags is of itself of great importance, but the manner in which it is carried out is equally if not more important; for if cold chilly air be allowed to pass among the plants they will not thrive, and all the care which has otherwise been bestowed on them will be in vain. The means of ventilation should be provided by ventilators fixed near the ground, clos? to the hot-water pipes, in order that the air may be warmed as it enters the house, and before it reaches the plants. Fresh air should also be admitted by underground pipes, so that in cold weather a current of pure air may be maintained. This can be accomplished by laying drain-pipes from the outside under the foundation to the inside under the hot-water pipes, so that the air is warmed immediately upon entering the house by passing over the heated pipes. In the houses here, there are three ventilators on each side to each house in the brickwork opposite the pipes. The ventilating shutters are made of wood, about two feet long, and one foot wide; sliding slate ventilators answer perhaps better. There should be one glass ventilator at the south end, near the roof, and one at the north end. We have also four small ventilators near the ridge of the roof, two on each side, on hinges, opening from the inside with cords; they are intended to let out the top-heat, the egress of which we have found very essential to the well-being of the plants. There are several contrivances for working the ventilators, the most popular being by means of iron rods and levers running from end to end of the house, so that all the ventilators may be opened at once. There are also many other appliances, but great care is required in using them, so that in cold windy weather too much air may not be given, as by all the ventilators opening at once air is given simultaneously all over the house, whereas it may only be expedient to give it at one end. No rule can be laid down for ventilation, as so much depends upon the locality where the plants are grown, and the period of growth at which the plants have arrived, as well as on the temperature of the house, but at all times there should be a free circulation of air, for these plants do not naturally live half their lives in a vitiated atmosphere, but of course the amount to be given will have to be regulated by the state of the outside temperature. 4 52 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. SHADING OF ORCHID HOUSES. {ia Orchid house requires to be shaded, although we are often told the practice is wrong; but as some plants would soon be de- stroyedif the burning rays of the sun were allowed to shine upon them when grown under glass, the use of blinds in summer is quite necessary to successful cultivation. It is possible, however, to carry shading to excess, and all such excesses must be studiously avoided. The best shading material is a thin canvas or netting. There should be blinds on each side, with a strong lath at the top to nail the canvas to, and a roller at the bottom. The canvas must be nailed to the roller, but care should be taken in doing this that the awning will roll up regularly from bottom to top. We never allow the canvas to be down except when the sun is powerful, for we find that too much shade is injurious to most kinds of Orchids. The awning will also be useful in the winter season for covering the house during a frosty night, being a great protection to those plants that are near the glass. It is advisable to have a cap or covering or coping on the ridge of the house for the protection of the canvas when rolled up, in order to keep it from wet. The following remarks on this subject have appeared in the Orchid Album as a note under Plate 30, and it may be useful to our readers to reproduce them here :— “This is a subject of the greatest importance in Orchid culture, and one that is often overlooked until it is too late, the mischief being done. What is required is a strong durable material that will wear well, and where rollers are used, stand the strain upon them. It must also be understood that shading does not consist of merely daubing upon the glass some opaque material, such as paint, summer cloud, whitening, or the like, which though all very well as palliatives in positions where rollers cannot be used, such.as at the ends and sides of a house, are greatly to be deprecated as a shading for the roof; for this reason, that in our English climate we are so subject to sudden changes of the weather, that were such a permanent shading to be used, we should frequently, especially during dull weather, have our plants in comparative darkness when they should be getting all the light possible: This cannot fail to lead to bad results and to produce a sickly growth. “ Some growers have used thick canvas; indeed we have done so ourselves many years ago, but by experience we have found out the ill effects of it, for when we employed this kind of shading we found the plants under its influence became weak and sickly, producing small puny flower spikes. A lighter shading was then employed, and the difference was marvellous; the plants assumed quite a different aspect. It was at this time that we were exhibiting at Chiswick the fine specimens of East Indian Orchids—Aérides, Saccolabiwms, SHADING OF ORCHID HOUSES. 63 Vandas, Dendrobiums, and many others—such as we seldom sec equalled now. Since then we have used thinner shadings, with the best results. Our Vandas thus treated have always been strong and healthy, with broader foliage, producing their flower-spikes as often as three times a year, with the flowers of a good colour, lasting a long time in perfection; in fact we are never without flowers, always having a good display. We refer more particularly to the suavis and tricolor section of the genus. Some people imagine Vandas do not flower till they attain a large size, but such is not the case if they are properly grown and thin shading is used. “ Our experience leads us to the belief that all Orchids, with a few exceptions, require a thin shading, that is to say, one that, while warding off the direct rays of the sun, will allow the light to enter through it. To arrive at this result we now use a strong durable cotton netting, woven in small squares, close enough to exclude the rays of the sun while the light penetrates it with but little interruption. This netting stands exposure to the weather much longer than canvas, and on that account is cheaper in the long run. We have: used this material for some years in the case of cool Orchids, Mexican and East Indian kinds, with the best results, the netting being attached to rollers: with appropriate gear. For the cool Orchid houses we employ Raised Blinds. In the winter we take them off the house and put them in a place of safety until they are required again in the ensuing spring.” The Raised Blinds just referred to formed the subject of a subsequent note under Plate 35 of the same work, which note is here transcribed :-— “During the summer months we have found Raised Blinds very beneficial to the growth of Orchids, especially to those requiring cool-house culture. When the hot summer’s sun is shining upon the glass, it is very difficult, where Raised Blinds are not employed, to keep the temperature sufficiently low. The glass roof of the structure upon which the sun is shining becomes very hot, even when shaded with ordinary blinds; but if Raised Blinds are used a. current of air is allowed to pass over the entire surface of the roof, and the glass is kept comparatively cool. The effect of this is to decrease very appre- ciably the internal temperature of the house; and the moisture, which would otherwise be dried up by the burning heat of the sun, produces a nice humid. genial atmosphere in which Orchids delight. : “ We will now explain briefly the mode of construction. Supposing that the house to be furnished with Raised Blinds is an ordinary span-roof structure, it is necessary in the first place to provide a second ridge elevated about, six inches above the top of the existing one. This should not consist of a solid plank, but of a strip of timber sufficiently strong to bear the weight and strain of the blinds and roller; and should be supported on blocks of wood placed at intervals in order to allow the current of air from below to find an outlet, which would not be the case if a solid ridge-board were adopted. Having arranged for the ridge, the next thing is to provide supports for the rollers. Either wood or iron may be used for this purpose, but we have found iron to be the lightest looking and the most durable. Where the length of the rafters does not exceed say eight feet, half-inch rod iron will be found to be strong enough, and this should be cut into proper lengths with the lower end turned up in a semi-circular form so as to catch the roller when it descends, and 54 - ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. prevent it from running off the supports. These supporting rods should be fixed to the bars or rafters of the house about six inches above the woodwork, by being welded to vertical iron stays, which latter should be flattened out at the base, and provided with holes so that they can be screwed to the rafters or bars of the roof. “In this way a strong support for the blinds to roll upon will be formed ; the blinds themselves can be attached to the elevated ridge in the ordinary way, and the gearing usually employed for the purpose will be found to answer well for pulling them up and down. Many Orchid growers have already adopted the Raised Blinds with very beneficial results.” GROWING SPECIMEN ORCHIDS FOR EXHIBITION. ee progress has been made in Orchid culture within the last forty years, owing perhaps to what has been written on the subject. There were, however, in years gone by, many fine collections of Orchids around London; some in France, and a few in Belgium, Germany, &c. The grand specimens that were exhibited at our London shows were very fine, especially the East Indian kinds, which were far in advance of those of the present time, and also more numerous, indeed, the fostering care bestowed upcn the distichous-leaved East Indian Orchids would seem to have almost completely died out since the advent of so many cool-house species from the Western Hemisphere, but still there is nothing to equal the fine display of the genera Saccolabium, Aérides, Vandas, and Angraecums of the earlier days. The single specimens were very fine indeed, and great interest was excited, and no little pride was felt, among amateurs to produce those which were exhibited for many years at the Chiswick and Regent’s Park shows. Within the past few years the taste seems to have in some measure revived, although many of those now exhibited are made up, instead of being genuine specimens. Of course there are some Orchids which will not make an exhibition specimen unless masses of them are put together, and this grouping or massing of such plants being allowed at the shows, nearly every one adopts the practice. While it is permitted, of course the making up instead of growing specimens will be continued, and that without any fault. of the exhibitors. Some exhibitors, however, put their plants together to form these quasi specimens in a very clumsy way, instead of displaying taste and judgment in their selection and arrangement. GROWING SPECIMEN ORCHIDS FOR EXHIBITION. 55 In all such cases varieties of the same colour should be placed together in the one group; this may be found difficult, but unless the colours match the mass should not be considered as of one variety, although it may be of the same species. The difficulty may be avoided by putting the plants together during the preceding season when they are in blossom, and then growing them on together. This is a far preferable plan to that of disturbing them a few days before a show, which often injures them and prevents them from flowering the following year, which is a great loss to the exhibitor, especially when he desires to make every plant tell. There is no doubt a great deal may be accomplished in the way of securing a good display by giving attention to bringing the plants into bloom at the right time, without forcing them too much. Itis far better to allow the plants to open their flowers gradually, and at the proper time, for they are then of more substance, of a better and richer colour, and last in flower much longer, besides which the plants are more easily carried to the shows, requiring, however, no less care in packing the blossoms so that they do not get bruised. See instructions given for packing Orchids for conveyance to the exhibitions, at p. 58. An experienced grower should be able to tell to a few days when a particular plant will be in flower, and how long it will last in beauty. This know- ledge may be obtained by taking notes year by year and summing up the average results. This is what we did when we commenced Orchid culture. If this matter be made a study, and it can be easily done with persevering observation, it will be found that a much smaller number of specimens is necessary than will otherwise be required in order to ensure a display. One chief point is often lost sight of, and that is giving attention to the plants at the proper time. A plant, like other things, if it does not get proper attention at, or as nearly as possible to, the right time, will not yield a satisfactory result—neither can it be expected. If plants under glass are not potted or planted, and if seeds in the garden are not sown at the time they should be, they cannot be expected to do well, or to come in at the required time. We state these facts for the benefit of the cultivator. Plants, after being flowered and exhibited, will be found to have exhausted much of their vigour, and consequently after that period they 56 ORCHID-GROWER’S .MANUAL. require a good deal of attention. Some must be started into growth, others require rest and to remain dormant for a time before being again stimulated into growth. Those that make the start should have all the encouragement possible, in order to produce good, sound, healthy, vigorous growths for the following year. Success very much depends upon attention to this treatment, which is often overlooked by cultivators, and the next year’s flowering is consequently often a failure. A few weeks lost in the growth of a plant cannot be made up. Our seasons are so short that there should be no time lost, especially as we get such a long autumn and winter, during which we have very little light and not much sun. The summer months ought to be made full use of in ripening the pseudobulbs, which will cause the growth to. be vigorous and the flowering more successful; there will also be more leading bulbs and strong roots, which are the results of good cultivation. Under this régime exhibition specimens—real specimens—will be produced, and the necessity for putting small ones together to form a mass will be avoided. To remove even these smaller plants disturbs their roots at a time when they require to be making progress in order to perfect their next season’s growth, and is not therefore desirable. Plants when in vigorous health are less likely to be attacked by insects, which is an important item in their cultivation. We give full details on the mode of battling with insects in a chapter devoted to these pests. TREATMENT PREPARATORY TO EXHIBITION. HERE are many cultivators of Orchids who object to send their plants to a public exhibition solely because they are afraid that they will receive. injury; but these fears are quite groundless if a moderate degree of care is exercised. We have been. exhibitors of these plants for nearly forty years, and during that period have had very few plants injured by exposure at flower shows. That some valuable Orchids. have been damaged at these places we know full well, but the fault has usually been in the want of due care in their preparation. It is our practice to move the plants to a cool. dry house or room for TREATMENT PREPARATORY TO EXHIBITION. 57 afew days previous to the show. If the plants are growing in the hottest housé, we move them to the cooler one. During this time they should be allowed only just enough water to keep them slightly moist. When it is probable that the plants will come into blossom earlier. than is wished, the time of flowering may be successfully retarded by taking them to a cooler part of the house, or even putting them in a warm greenhouse, keeping them slightly shaded during the brightest part of the day. Dendrobiwms, if they are wanted to bloom later in the season, are very easily thus retarded. Dendrobium nobile, D. superbum, D. densiflorum, D. Farmerti, D. Pierardii latifolium, D. Wardianwm, D. crassinode, D. Schréderii, and D. Devonianum, generally bloom during winter, but we have kept them back until June; and, by having a succession of plants, the Orchid house may be gay with Dendrobiwms from January to June. Nearly all the Dendrobiwms will bear cool treatment while at rest, and all can be kept for late flowering. To ensure this, place them in a warm greenhouse and give but little water—in fact, only just enough to keep them from shrivelling ; under this treatment the temperature should not fall lower than 40°, and the stems must be kept dry, or the flower buds are apt to rot. They should be shaded from the sun so that the flower buds may not be excited. When the plants are wanted to flower they should be removed to the Orchid house, and still kept shaded from the sun. Oclogynes, Odontoglossums, Masdevallias, Oncidiums, Phajus Wallichit, P. grandifolius, Lycaste Skinneri, and many others may be kept back in the same way as the Dendrobiwms. We have had ample proof of this by taking these plants to shows. Thus we exhibited sixty- five, specimens in Brussels, and not a plant was injured; again, at Philadelphia, Amsterdam, Cologne, Oporto, and Dresden, we exhibited with the same good results. Our plants were taken more safely than those of exhibitors that lived but a few miles off, the reason being that proper care was taken to pack them well and to give no water—in fact, we followed the rules here laid down. 58 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. PACKING ORCHIDS FOR EXHIBITIONS. [ transporting Orchidaceous plants to exhibitions they require great care in packing and tying, for many of them are very tender. Their flowers in many instances are large and waxy, and some of them require more packing than others. It is extremely annoying to have a fine specimen plant spoiled, during its journey to the place of exhibition, in consequence of its not being carefully packed, when with a little more care it would have travelled safely to any distance. In fact, distance is of very little consequence if the packing is well done. This was proved in a most extraordinary manner in the spring of 1869, by Mr. R. Warner, who sent upwards of fifty specimen Orchids, from his gardens at Broomfield, to the International Horticultural Exhibition at St. Petersburg. These plants were carefully packed in close cases, and sent by rail the whole journey, saving the short run across the Channel by steamer, eight days being occupied in the transport. When unpacked and staged, they were in excellent condition, having suffered during the journey no more than they would have done in the houses at home. That these plants should have travelled to St. Petersburg in such excellent condition is undoubtedly the greatest feat in connection with horticultural exhibitions that has ever been accomplished, especially con- sidering that they were all large plants—amongst them Phalcenopsis Schil- leriana, with a hundred expanded blossoms; P. grandiflora, with about half the number ; Vandas, with numerous spikes; T'richopilia crispa, with a hundred open flowers ;. Cattleyas, Dendrobiwms, Odontoylossums, Cypripe- diums, Aérides, and several other genera, the whole being profusely bloomed. A vemarkable proof of what care will do with even the most delicate flowers was given in the case of the plant of Odontoglosswm Alewandre exhibited in this collection, which, after standing at the St. Petersburg Exhibition for a fortnight, was again packed up and exhibited three weeks later at the Royal Horticultural Society’s Gardens at Kensington, with the loss of only one or two flowers. We have had a good deal of this work to do, and a few hints on the subject to beginners may be of practical use. Some kinds bear carrying much better than others. Phajus Wullichii and P. grandifolius are both bad plants for travelling if not well packed. We have seen fine plants brought to different flower shows with their flowers completely spoiled, for PACKING ORCHIDS FOR EXHIBITIONS. 59 want of proper packing. On the other hand we have shown P. Wallichii for several years at the Chiswick and Regent’s Park Exhibitions, and always managed to convey it without any injury. Oiled tissue paper is an excellent thing to wrap each flower in, also the flowers of Vandas, and indeed any that are particularly liable to bruise through the transit. In preparing them we put a strong stick to each flower spike, the sticks being long enough to go firmly into the pot. They should be placed at the back part of the flowers, and should stand one or two inches above the flower spike ; some wadding should then be fastened round the stick, with the smooth or glazed side towards the flowers so that it does not cling or leave any portion upon the flowers, and the flower spike tied firmly to it, putting more wadding or fine paper round every flower stalk, and tying each firmly to the flower spike. Begin at the top of the spike, and tie every flower separately, so that they do not touch one another. The leaves must not be allowed to rub against the flowers. On arriving at the end of their journey, untie them, remove the wadding, and tie them out in the proper form. In tying, care should be taken not to rub the flowers. Saccolubiums and Aérides do not require so much packing. It is sufficient to put two or three sticks to each spike—one at each end and one in the centre if the spike be long, or two only if it be short. The stick, which should only be long enough to support the spikes in the drooping way in which they grow, should be firmly fixed in the basket or pot; a small piece of wadding or fine paper should be placed on the top of the stick, and to this the spike should be firmly tied. This will be sufficient to ensure safety. The wadding should not be allowed to touch the top part of the flowers, as it will stick to them and be very difficult to remove. Vandas require more packing, their flowers being larger and further apart; place some wadding between each flower on the spike, then fix some sticks firmly in the basket or pot, and tie the spike to them, without allowing the stick to touch the flowers ; wadding should then be put in between the flowers to keep them separate, and a piece of oiled tissue paper over all the flowers, the smooth surface being placed on the blossoms. Phalenopsis grandiflora and P. amabilis travel badly, and require much care. The best way is to set the plant in the bottom of a box, 60 ORCHID-GROWER'S MANUAL. which must be long enough to allow the flower spike to lie at full length ; wadding should then be placed underneath the flowers, which should lie flat on the wadding ; another sheet of wadding should then be placed on the top of the flowers, in order to make them lie firmly, although they may be treated in the same way as recommended for Vandas. Dendrobiums in some cases only require a stick to each stem, fixed firmly in the pot, and to this they should be tied. This plan will serve for such as D. nobile, D. superbum, D. Devonianum, D. Linawianum, and sorts with similar flowers. Those, however, that flower with pendulous racemes, such as D. densiflorum, D. Farmerti, D. thyrsiflorum, D. suavissimum, and others growing in the. same way, require three sticks—one to the stem, to which the latter should be firmly tied, and the other two to the flower spike, one at each end, in the same way as with the Saccolabiums. Calanthes are bad travellers, especially C. veratrifolia; the delicate white flowers soon become injured and discoloured if allowed to rub against each other. To avoid this, put a stick carefully to each spike. Cattleyas require to be packed very carefully ; their flowers should be tied so that they do not touch one another. The best method is to put a stick to each flowering bulb, tying it firmly, and a stick to each flower. stalk, just below the flower, with a piece of wadding round the stalk; afterwards tie the stalks to the stick; neither the sticks nor the leaves should be allowed to touch the flowers, or they will become bruised. Oncidiums travel well; they only require a strong stick to each flower spike, with a piece of wadding round the stick at the points where the ties come. Sobralia macrantha is a bad plant to travel if not properly tied. There should be a strong stick placed to each flowering growth, which must be tied firmly; and also one to the flower stalk, with a piece of wadding close: to the flower; then tie the stalk firmly to the stick, and allow nothing to rub against the flowers. Peristeria elata should be treated in the same way as above recommended for Phajus. Cypripediums which have separate flowers require a small stick to each flower stalk. The Lycastes, and all other Orchids that flower in the same way, require similar support for their individual flowers, which, if kept separate, will travel safely without more trouble. PACKING ORCHIDS FOR EXHIBITIONS. 61 All Orchids if going a long distance should have fine paper placed over the flowers, as the dust often spoils the delicate bloom; this also protects them from cold. The best means of conveyance for Orchids is decidedly a spring van with a cover on the top. In placing the plants in the van, we always put some hay between the pots, to keep them firm and prevent their rubbing against each other; this, moreover, helps to retain the warmth in the pots by preventing draughts from reaching them, and thus the roots are not subjected to any great check through change of tempera- ture. An opportunity occurs here to remark upon the paucity of Orchids at our great London exhibitions of the present day, as compared with those of former years. It is true several of the large contributors are dead, and their collections are dispersed; some few have relinquished their culture, and others have removed to a distance; but there still remains ample material in the numerous rich collections in the vicinity of the metropolis to again furnish a glorious bank of flowers, such as formerly greeted the eye at the Chiswick and Regent’s Park Gardens on Exhibition days; and we are fully persuaded it is only from the want of encouragement in the matter of prizes that we do not now see these gorgeous displays at our London shows. That such is the case, we have only to turn for proof to the great Whit-week show at Manchester. There the prizes are good, and not only do the cultivators in the imme- diate vicinity bring their plants, but others from a considerable distance can be seen staging their productions for competition against the celebrated growers of ‘“‘ Cottonopolis ” ; indeed, the display of specimen Orchids made in 1870 we never saw surpassed, if equalled, at any show. This may be readily imagined when it is stated that a double row of these plants alone extended a distance of over three hundred feet, and amongst them were many of the grandest Leelias, Cattleyas, Vandas, Trichopilas, Odonto- glossums, and a host of others, we have ever beheld. Some may contend from these facts that the love of gain is the chief motive power. This would be a wrong conclusion to draw; but, although gentlemen and gardeners do sometimes exhibit for the honour only, such cannot always be the case. Indeed, the cost of obtaining a proper conveyance, the packing, the transit, and the time occupied at the exhibitions, represents a considerable sum of money, and very few persons can be induced to 62 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, incur the expenditure if the prize to be competed for does not at least cover the expense—neither is it reasonable of any Society to expect that they should do so. INSECTS AND OTHER ENEMIES. RCHIDS have always been liable to be injured by many sorts of Insects, such as Red Spider, Thrips, Mealy Bug, White and Brown Scale, Cockroaches, and Ants; and also by Woodlice, Helix alliaria (a small kind of Snail), and a few closely allied species, and slugs ; but they have some friends of the animal kingdom, and amongst them we would mention GREEN Frogs. We have found Green Frogs very useful in Orchid houses, and we believe many growers now employ them. They are very agile in their movements, and it is surprising to see the rapidity with which they move from plant to plant without causing the slightest injury: The quantity of insects they eat is astonishing, especially young Cockroaches and Woodlice, which are generally plentiful wherever Orchids are grown. The Insects injurious to Orchids are, unfortunately, becoming more numerous than they formerly were. Then we had only those already mentioned to contend with. Now, however, we hear of new Insects, coming in with new Orchids. This is not at all surprising, as Orchids are being brought home from fresh localities, and naturally bring the different species of Insects infesting them along with them, and these are introduced with the imported plants amongst which they harbour. Some of them prove to be terrible pests, feeding upon such of the plants as suit their taste. They should therefore be well looked after, and if possible destroyed before the plants are allowed to enter our houses. We cannot be too particular in this, for in it lies one of the chief elements of success : if these pests are not got rid of, they will in time destroy the foliage, besides giving a most unsightly appearance to the plant, which is very objectionable ; the flowers, moreover, will be destroyed by these marauders, which is most annoying after all the care and expense bestowed upon them. A striking instance we saw a short time since, in several collections where Dendrobium Phalenopsis was grown in con- siderable numbers; a small Beetle which feeds upon the interior of the INSECTS AND OTHER ENEMIES. 63 stem-like bulbs had been imported with it from New Guinea, and it made sad mischief, for it was found that to extirpate this pest the only plan was to cut off the infested stems and burn them. There is no doubt that in this matter prevention is better than cure. Therefore these enemies must be kept in check by careful examination of the plants when they reach this country; for this purpose, before admitting them in our Orchid houses they should be placed in a probationary structure, and, should insects be found on them, one should not rest until they are entirely got rid of. We repeat what we have often said on previous occasions: well wash every part of the plant, leaves, bulbs, and roots, and then there will be little chance of the insects escaping destruction. Imported plants are not by any means the only ones that suffer from insect pests. We frequently see plants exposed for sale in a disgrace- fully foul condition ; in fact, they look as though water and sponge had never been near them. These Orchids require quite as much looking after as the imported ones, and the best plan of procedure is to thoroughly cleanse the bulbs and foliage, shake them out of the pots, cut away all the decayed roots, wash the sound roots in clean water, and then pot them in clean pots and in new material, according to the directions given for performing this operation. This, if efficiently done, will be a sure means of eradicating the pests, which the inexperienced grower will have to search closely for in order to find. Some of them are to be seen in the shape of eggs; others appear as young insects, but so minute that a magnifying glass should be employed in searching the foliage to discover them. If, however, the plan recommended above be followed, all traces of them will be cleared away. We find in the case of plants, as well as animals, that cleanliness is one of the first steps towards securing good health. We have now, we trust, shown what to do and what to avoid, in the case of imported plants and established specimens affected: by these pests. COCKROACHES are ainong the greatest plagues with which we have to contend ; they will do a great deal of mischief in a few nights if not intercepted, and they should therefore be sought after at every opportunity. The food they like best is the young tender roots and flower stems, and we have known the roots of a plant completely eaten off in one night by these depredators. The only way to keep these insects under is 64 : ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. by constantly looking after them, both by night and day, searching for them in the evening by candle-light, and in the day-time by moving the pots and baskets under which they harbour. They leave their hiding- places in the evening, to seek after food, and it is then that they are most easily caught. Chase’s Beetle Poison, a phosphoric mixture sold in boxes, is a capital thing to destroy them, if laid in different parts of the house in the evening, say, two or three nights a week, and then removed for a week, repeating the operation every other week until they are destroyed. It should be placed on oyster-shells or pieces of tile or slate, these being collected every morning and put down again in the evening. There are also several other kinds of Beetle powders, which should be placed upon the stages amongst the plants. ' By using these preparations from time to time they may be kept under. It is also a good plan to lay some damp moss as a decoy in the hottest part of the house ; this should be looked over every two or three days. We have killed many in this way. They may also be destroyed by the use of a mixture of honey, lard, and arsenic, the latter in very small quantity, placing some of this on oyster shells, and laying them in different parts of the house. Some growers mix the arsenic with tallow and put it on a stick, which is stuck in the pots; care must, however, be taken that the mixture does not touch the leaves or bulbs of the plants. Bell-glasses are also used for catching these pests, inverting them so that they are level with the soil or moss, and then half filling them with treacle made a little thinner by admixture with water; it should be thick enough to stick and prevent them from climbing up tts glass ; ; the dead ones should be removed every day. Small Ants are another pest in the Orchid house, as they carry the dirt to the flowers and thus spoil their appearance, as well as smother the plants, and, if allowed to accumulate, they frequently cause great injury to them. The best plan we know for catching these troublesome little insects is to cut apples in halves, scoop out a portion of the inside, and lay the pieces in different parts of the house, looking them over very often. ‘We have in this way destroyed hundreds in a very short time. Treacle is also a good thing as a trap for these pests: place some in 4 bell-glass in the places which they frequent—they are fond of anything sweet; they go to feed, get into the mixture, and -cannot get out again, INSECTS AND OTHER ENEMIES. 65 as it holds them down and thus causes their death. We have also found hollow bones a very good means of enticing them, but these should be dipped in boiling water and the bones laid down again, or the water may be poured on the bones as they lay on the stages. They should be frequently looked over. The best way of getting rid of the Rep Sprper and the Turips is by frequently washing the leaves with clean water, steaming with tobacco juice, or fumigating the house with tobacco or tobacco paper. We prefer steaming to fumigating, this process being the least injurious to Orchids. We have tried it for some years with the greatest success, having used it in houses where the tenderest Ferns and flowering Orchids were grown. This operation is carried out by using specially prepared tobacco juice in an apparatus called the ‘‘Thanatophore.” This contrivance was invented by M. Martre, of Paris, and we have taken up the sole agency for the sale of this new invention in this country. For further particulars as to the use of this apparatus we must refer our readers to the advertisements at the end of this book. Our method is to fill the house either with steam or tobacco smoke—in the case of steam twice, and tobacco smoke three or four times—at intervals of two or three days, till the insects are quite destroyed ; the evening is the best time to do this. It is also a good plan to mix some lime and sulphur together, and rub it on the pipes in different parts of the house, taking care not to use too much; and it should be used only when the pipes are warm, not hot; there should be a good supply of moisture at the same time, but not too much heat. There is also a kind of Red Thrips which sometimes gets into the heart of the plants, and is very trouble- some; steaming is the best remedy for this. It is very difficult to perceive, but will soon disfigure the tops of the plants if not kept under. When discovered, the house should be smoked every two or three nights till it is destroyed. The parts on which the insects had established themselves should be washed with tobacco water. Tobacco powder may also be used on the leaves, or even powdered sulphur mixed with water and applied to the affected parts with a camel's hair pencil. The GREEN Fy or ApHis, which makes its appearance in spring on the young flower buds, may also be destroyed by steaming; and of late we have had a yellow Aphis introduced, which is a great pest if not kept under, and requires more looking after than the green fly; steam 5 66 ‘ ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. will kill this pest, and wherever it is seen it. must be washed off with a sponge to prevent its increase. ; The Brown Scag, the WHITE SCALE, and the MEaLy-BuG may be kept under by frequently’ sponging the leaves and bulbs with water. The White Scale is very troublesome if not looked after. A little soft soap mixed with water, and rubbed over the leaves and bulbs, is a good thing to destroy this kind of scale; it should remain on for a day, and. then be washed off, when all the-insects will be destroyed. Care should, however, be taken not to use it too strong. Cuattleyas are very subject to this pest. The following is another recipe for. destroying it: To one gallon of rain water add eight ounces of soft soap, one ounce of tobacco, and three table-spoonfuls of spirits of turpentine ; stir well together, and leave the mixture for forty-eight hours; then strain it through a cloth, when it will be ready for use. It is necessary to rub the plants over two or three times if they are much infested, but once will be sufficient in most cases. Any portion of the mixture remaining after the~plants are washed should be put into a bottle, and reserved for. future: use, This recipe is also a cure: for Thrips on azaleas or other plants. The ingredients as above noted should be mixed in a large tub, and. the plants dipped in it; this will speedily clear them of the pest. It, will be seen, therefore, that it is useful to others as well as Orchid growers, and will prove a great saving of labour for those who grow large plants for exhibition, .or for those who have a quantity of small plants to clear of such pests. The MEALy-BuG must be kept away by constantly watching for it and frequently cleansing the plants. Whenever a plant is purchased that is infested with it, take care to cleanse it thoroughly before placing it in the stove or Orchid house. In’a word, never allow insects to get the upper hand, or you will not long continue to grow plants to perfection, for all such pests are as poison to plants—robbing them of their vigour, and when they have lost that there is not much hope of them. There are more plants lost through uncleanliness than from any. other cause. 5 CaTTLEYA Fiy. One of the new insects we have now to battle with is a kind of fly which attacks. the Lelias. and Cattleyas. A maggot appears at the base of the young growths, and may easily be perceived by those.who have once had their attention directed towards it, for the INSECTS AND OTHER ENEMIES. 67 bulb swells and becomes club-shaped at the part where the maggot is feeding ; these larvee when they are matured change into a fly, the swollen part of the bulb opens, and the flies are liberated and become distributed about the house, when, if they are not destroyed, they multiply and soon infest the healthy plants. They appear to live chiefly amongst the Cuttleyas. They remain in the bulb until it is half- grown, which must, of course, injure the plant, and then they leave it. The remedy to be adopted is this: as soon as the bulb is perceived to be swelling more than is natural to it, proceed to cut the growth away close to the old bulb, and thus destroy it at once before any mischief has been done. There-is then a chance of getting another growth: without it. This will be found to.be the only effectual method of extermitiating this enemy. It is annoying to have to cut away the young growth, but it is better to do so than to get other plants infested in the same manner. In the case of imported plants the insects will not be in the bulb, but distributed among the old stems, and if not destroyed at once they will be ready to enter the new shoots while young and tender. When the fly is full grown it pierces the foliage and young growths with its ovipositor, and lays its eggs, which soon change into maggots, these latter feeding on the growing bulbs and deriving their sustenance from the living tissues of the bulb, which is, of course, most injurious; these maggots in due time become flies. If imported plants have been infested there will be found a puncture near the bottom of the old bulb. If there is no puncture to be seen, the plant may be cleaned and put away. A successful Orchid grower told us how he had entirely got rid of these insects by the following treatment: He placed his newly. imported plants in a house by themselves until the young growths were sufficiently formed to show. whether or not there was any appearance of the swelling of the bulb; if not he felt safe, and removed them. to their permanent quarters. This probationary treatment is a wise plan to adopt. Larce Buacx Turips. There is another new pest which: has only come under our notice during the past year—that is a black Thrips, much larger than the one we have been in the habit of seeing. We have noticed it in several collections of East Indian Orchids, and it must have been imported among some of the. Aérides or Vandas. This pest finds its way.to the hearts.of the plants, and causes the top leaves to become spotted or yellow; it must be closely and constantly watched 5* 638 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, for, the hearts of the plants especially being well searched ; and if any of them should appear their destruction must be set about at once, no rest being given until they are banished from their haunts. For the purpose of destroying them use carefully a fine hair brush wetted with tobacco water so that the young leaves may not be bruised ; then take all the material out of the pot and burn it, wash the roots, and supply fresh moss, as they might accumulate among the roots. It is best to remove the infested plants to another house until the pest has been entirely subdued. When they are thoroughly cleared of the Thrips, take the plants back to the house, but keep a close watch upon them. Srock-sEED ScaLE. There is also a scale insect which has made its way into our collections during the last few years; it is known to Orchidists as the Stock-seed Scale, and is so named from its close resemblance to the seed of the stock. This generally gets under the leaves and flower spikes, and must be washed off the plants. Some persons think they are harmless ; but they do harm, because they must exist upon something, and that something must be the juices of the plant. ‘They increase rapidly, and go from plant to plant. Where these are found there are always plenty of small ants, so that there must be something for these pests to live upon, or they would not be followed by those busy insects that are always searching for food. If the Scale is not destroyed, it will in time infest the whole house of plants. Ants appear to be very fond of this insect, and will travel a long way after it, carrying the dust from the potting material with them and disfiguring the plant. The practice of cleanliness by Orchid growers will be found the right road to secure success in the cultivation of their plants. The WooDLOUSE and small SNaILs and SLuas of whatever species are also very destructive. These, like the cockroach, are all very fond of the young roots. They may be trapped by cutting some potatoes, scooping out the inside, and placing them on the pots and baskets, looking them over every night and morning till the house is cleared of the vermin. Turnips cut in slices will answer the same end. Small flower-pots, with some dry moss at the bottom, also form capital traps for the Woodlouse ;. lay them on their sides in different parts of the house, and examine them frequently, destroying those that are caught. Toads and Green Frogs are very useful in catching these pests, and a few placed in a house prove very serviceable, DISEASES OF ORCHIDS, 69 DISEASES OF ORCHIDS. RCHIDS are subject to diseases in their leaves, stems, and pseudo- bulbs, especially during the damp months of winter. Of these the most injurious are the Rot and the Spot. The Ror, which is apt to assail the thick fleshy bulbs, is caused by too much moisture in the house, in many instances by water from the syringe gathering in the sheaths surrounding the stems, and there being a great want of circulation in the air. When the heat is low, the drip from the glass will sometimes fall on the crowns of the pseudobulhs, and this soon causes them to rot. Steam is also very injurious in a house during the winter; it is particularly inimical to such plants as Cattleyas, Laelixs, Odontoylossums, and other Orchids that have fleshy bulbs. When the leaves begin to rot, the diseased part should be cut clean away, and a little sulphur rubbed on the part that is cut, but not so that the sulphur can get to the roots. When the rot attacks the bulbs it should be seen to at once, as it may easily be stopped by cutting the diseased part entirely away with a sharp knife, no portion of the diseased or decayed bulb being left, and the wound should then be filled up with sulphur, to keep it dry. Should any part of the fleshy pseudobulbs of the above named plants, or of those with similarly-formed bulbs, become discoloured, and the dark or dis- coloured part appear moist or wet, especially if any fluid exudes from it on pressure, the wet or discoloured part should be immediately cut out, or there is danger that the bulb may be destroyed, as the rot is often much more extensive within than the discoloured appearances on the outside would seem to indicate. The plant should also be removed to a drier and cooler place, and water should be given with the utmost care. The Spot is the dread of Orchid growers, and there is no denying that when it attacks a plant it will soon disfigure it. Some assert that ‘it is infectious, but this we do not believe. Indeed, we should have no hesitation in placing a plant infected with spot amongst a quantity of healthy ones, and, should any of these become diseased, we should feel certain it was induced by a wrong course of treatment: in some respect, and that no blame could be laid to the charge of the neighbouring plant. A great deal has been said and written respecting this disease, which we 70 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. have seen in various places, and on other plants as well as on Orchids. We have not experienced much of it ourselves, and have in most cases found that the plants outgrew it. To prevent the disease making its appearence, no rotten or rotting material should be permitted near the roots, either in the shape of sour stagnant moss or soil, or decomposed wood. If the plants get sufficient but not excessive heat, an abundance of fresh sweet air without draughts or sudden chills, a liberal supply of moisture, and full exposure to the light, with shade from the direct burning rays of the sun, we are fully persuaded that the Spot will never be troublesome. On the other hand, if any plants are attacked, the material about the roots should be taken away, every particle of decayed or decaying root removed, and the sound portions should be well washed with warm water; after this they should be re-potted in some good sweet soil, the instructions already given for the treatment of healthy plants being otherwise followed out. In 1860 a gentleman bought of us some plants of Phalaenopsis, which were the finest grown plants we had seen, and they did beautifully with him for some time, growing very fast—in fact too fast, for they got sappy, and their leaves became spotted, as did also those of some others he had. Some time after we went to see them, and our opinion respecting them was asked. Upon inquiring how they had been treated, we were told that a great deal of water had been given over the leaves, and the roots kept wet ; this was during winter. We called to see them several times during-the following spring, and advised that they should be treated as recommended for Phalaenopsis in these pages. These plants have quite outgrown the Spot, and are now among the finest round London. When at Hoddesdon, we had two Phalaenopses which became affected with Spot in the winter. We cut oft one of the leaves, and sent it to Dr. Lindley for his opinion as to the cause of the evil. His reply was, that the plants had been kept too moist during the cold dark days of winter—a reply which we have never since lost sight of. He was quite right, for it was a sharp winter, and these two plants had been kept wet by placing the bottom of the block on which they grew in a pan of water to keep off the cockroaches. In that way, too, much moisture crept up to the roots, and, being in the winter time, this doubtless caused the leaves to become Spotted. However, by following the treatment here recommended in the remarks on Phalaenopsis, the plants soon recovered ; PRICES OF ORCHIDS. 71 but if a rigorous change had not been adopted in time, the disease would have gone too far, and probably killed the plants. Much injury is done to epiphytal Orchids by keeping the plants too wet at the roots in dull weather ; in fact, too much moisture in that way is injurious at any time, especially to those species that grow on branches of trees, when they come to be confined in pots. and baskets. Our practice is to give but little water at the roots during winter, and not so much as many people in summer, because we have seen the ill effects of it. The treatment we recommended some years ago we still follow, and with uniform success. Some Orchid growers give more heat and moisture than is here recommended, and their plants have done well for a time; but under such exciting management they are apt to become Spotted, and get permanently into a bad state of health—in short, the least chill, after growing in so high a temperature, is liable to induce disease. The great secret in the cultivation of these as well.as of all other plants is to provide a proper house, without drip; to supply sufficient ventilation, heat, and moisture ; and to ensure the total banishment of insects detrimental to vegetable life. The temperature throughout the year should be kept in accordance with the directions laid down in these pages, which are the result of long experience and close observation. PRICES OF ORCHIDS. | HE value of these plants has fluctuated considerably from time to time, according to the supply and to other circumstances. Some- times the rise and fail of the markets cause their prices to vary; at: others the removal to a distant part of the country, to a residence unprovided with the necessary house room for the reception of the plants, and their owner, thinking the risk and trouble of their transit for a long distance is more than he can undertake, brings them before the public in the sale rooms of the metropolis or other large towns, or they are publicly sold on the premises where they had been grown. Again, the decease of the owner of a large collection of Orchids frequently causes them to be brought to the hammer, the executors finding this the most ready way of securing a settlement of the estate, and this throws a 72 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. vast quantity of plants upon the market at various prices, by which, in some instances, a good margin of profit is realised, and at others a loss has to be credited to some of the plants. But, taking it on the whole, we think the purchase of good Orchids and growing them well is a very good way of spending one’s spare cash, and in many instances, independent of the large amount of pleasure and happiness one derives from them, proves a good pecuniary investment. Still, the prices of Orchids vary considerably. Many plants that were high priced some thirty or forty years ago are now very much reduced in value, and, for the matter of price, some of those plants which brought a very long price, say, only ten years back, are very low in price at the present time: and this gives to many an opportunity to indulge in their taste for Orchids at a moderate expenditure, rendering our early statement of “Orchids for the Million” more applicable than ever it was. The highest prices now obtained for Orchids is first, for those which have only been imported upon a very few occasions; for instance, we have Aérides Schréderit. The original plant of this was sold at Mr. Schréder’s sale for £89, and it cannot be bought at the present time under some fifteen or twenty guineas, according to the size and strength of the plant. So with Cypripedium Stonei platytaenium, when it was sold at Mr. Day’s sale, brought 140 guineas, these prices having been obtained for plants which had never been imported from their native country upon more than one occasion. Other plants may be named which have realised high prices upon their first introduction, and the case of the fine Aérides Lawrenciae which realised in the public auction rooms the highest price given for an Orchid, viz., 235 guineas; so Coeloqyne cristuta hololeuca (alba) brought £200, Vanda Sanderiana £180, Cymbidium Parishii £105, Renanthera (Vanda) Lowii 100 guineas, Phuluwenopsis intermedia Portei and Pha- luenopsis amabilis £100. But it is useless to multiply examples of high prices which particular plants have realised, as we have daily examples how cheaply plants of beautiful and showy species can be bought ; it is the good varieties of these species which are always sought after, and which serve to realise long prices. Hence it is always well for an amateur to surround himself with varied and good forms, and these will always be in demand, As an example, we may mention Odontoglossum Alewandrae, which in the ordinary type we catalogue at 3s. Gd. and 5s. each in fair sized plants: varieties of this plant have realised as much as SELECT ORCIHDS IN CULTIVATION—ACANTHOPHIPPIUM, ' 73 160 guineas and 165 guineas, and there are many other species which have equally valuable varieties. Hybrid Orchids, now becoming somewhat plentiful, also realise high prices, and this appears to us to be a far safer investment than paying very large sums for imported plants, because, in the latter case the market is liable to a large and sudden influx of plants, which at once brings the most beautiful species and varieties down. ‘Take, for example, the rapid fall in price of Cypripedium NSpicerianum. and more recently of Cattleya labiata, but with hybrid forms the case is different, for if other persons than the original raiser of a particularly good form have seedling plants derived from the same cross they will necessarily have to flower them before they can be offered as the same plant; and we know from experience the length of time required to bring many of the hybrids to this state. Moreover, as Orchids do not increase under cultivation with the rapidity that many plants do, the stock of any one plant remains limited for a considerable amount of time, but the prices of these, as with every other class of plants, is liable to great variations, brought about by the demand and supply. SELECT ORCHIDS IN CULTIVATION. E next proceed to give a popular description of the best Orchidaceous plants now cultivated in our gardens. The distinctive features of each genus are first given, and these are followed by an account of the mode of treatment which we have found, after many years, to be best adapted to their successful cultivation, and supplemented by descriptions of the choicer species and varieties. The genera and species are arranged in alphabetical order for facility of reference. ACANTHOPHIPPIUM, Blume. (Tribe Bletieae, subtribe Epidendreae.) This is a genus of Asiatic Orchids belonging to the Epidendrece. They are terrestrial plants, with oblong pseudobulbs, and strongly ribbed leaves. The scape is erect, and bears from three to seven somewhat large flowers, which are ventricose, and furnished with a blunt spur. 74 . ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. Cultwre—As before remarked, they are terrestrial; and require to be well shaded ; pot culture suits them best, but the pots must be well drained. The soil should consist of about equal parts of peat, turfy light loam, and leaf-mould; press the mould down firmly and do not elevate the plant above the pot. During the season of growth a liberal supply of water is necessary, both to the roots and in the atmosphere, but during winter it may be entirely withheld. They should be grown in the East Indian house. A. BICOLOR, Lindley—Pseudobulbs small, ovate, bearing leaves a foot or eighteen inches long, and which taper at both ends. Scape erect, bearing several campanulate flowers, usually from three to four in a cluster. Sepals and petals nearly equal, oblong-Janceolate, acute, yellow, streaked and spotted with reddish-purple; lip bluntly tongue-shaped in front, bearing on the disk three fleshy protuberances, lateral lobes incurved, obtuse. Flowers in May and June.— Ceylon. Fie.—Maund. Bot., iv. t. 200; Bot. Reg., xx. t. 1730. A. CURTISI, Rchb. f—This is a species of recent introduction, which resembles the preceding in most details. The flowers are more or less dotted with purple and rose; lip yellowish, bearing fine raised lines of a yellowish huc between the white fringes.— Malay Archipelago. A. JAVANICUM, Blume.—This species, although resembling the others in general habit, may be distinguished by its bluntly quadrangular pseudo- bulbs. The scape bears from three to six flowers, which are yellow, streaked and spotted with reddish-purple; petals somewhat spathulate; lip three- lobed, middle lobe slightly contracted, side lobes truncate. Flowers in spring. —Save. Fie.— Bot. Iteg., xxxii.t.47; Bot. Mag., t. 4492; Blum. Flora Java, t.49; Lem. Tard, Fl,, t. 35; Moore, Ill. Orch, Pl., t. 1. : A. STRIATUM, Lindley—A slender growing species. The flowers are white, sparingly streaked and flushed with red. Sepals and petals nearly equal, oblong, acute; the three-lobed lip is small and fleshy, bearing numerous warty protuberances on the disk and centre of the middle lobe, the side lobes oblong-obtuse. Flowers in spring.—Nepaul... Fieg.— Bot. Req., 1838, t. 68. \ \ A. SYLHETENSE, Lindley—This is also a white flowered species, but it is of a creamy hue, streaked and spotted with purple. Sepals and petals oblong- lanceolate, acute; lip three-lobed, anterior lobe fleshy in texture, tongue-shaped, the centre bearing three fringed protuberances, lateral lobes small. Spring months.—Sylhet and Khasia. ACINETA. 75 ACINETA, Lindley. (Tribe Vandeae, subtribe Stanhopieae.) ; sss Epiphytal plants of stout habit, bearing showy flowers in drooping racemes from the base of the pseudobulbs. They are related to Peristeria, and distinguished by their broad and finally spreading sepals, and the narrowly margined claw of the lip, which has -a concave inflexed middle lobe, by a longish column, and by the oblong stalks of the two pollen-masses becoming thickened with a gland at the base. About eight species are known, natives of Tropical America and Mexico. - Culture.—These plants should be grown in baskets or on blocks, as their flower spikes, which invariably take a downward direction, spring from the base of the pseudobulbs. They are all evergreen, with short pseudo- bulbs, and nervose leaves, about a foot high. They are of easy culture in a mixture of moss and peat; and.a liberal supply iof water at the roots is necessary during their period of growth, but during their resting season less will suffice. They will all succeed in either the East Indian or Cattleya house, suspended from the roof; and all of them may be propagated by separating the pseudobulbs when fully matured. In order that the flowers may be kept as long as possible from blemish or decay, care should be taken not to wet them while watering or syringing the plants; this precaution, indeed, applies to all Orchids, and to all other choice flowers. A. BARKERI, Lindley—A handsome species, with drooping spikes a foot long of large fleshy golden-yellow subglobose flowers, spotted with dark red in the centre of the lip; blooms during summer, and lasts long in perfection.— Mewxico. ; Fic.—Bot. Mag., t. 4203; Pawt, Mag., xiv. t. 145; Ill. Hort., t. 44; Batem Orch. Men., t. 8. Syx.—Prristeria Barkeri. A. DENSA, Lindley —A beautiful species, with long drooping spikes of large bright yellow flowers, which are larger and more expanded than in A, Barkeri S inside the petals are covered with crimson spots, and thé lip which is boldly dotted with red.on the side lobes has a large quadrangular appendage or gland of a deep sanguineous red; blooms in March and April, and lasts a long time in perfection —Central America. . Fic.—Floral Mag.,t.16; Paat. Fl. Gard., i. 91, fig. 63; Bot. Mags ts ms, Pi Syx.—Acincta Warscewiczii; A. erythrovantha. : bo Blige etic) Oe 76 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. A. ERYTHROXANTHA.— Sce ACINETA DENSA. A. HRUBYANA, Rehb. /.—This, according to Prof. Reichenbach, is a fine and distinct species, with loose racemes of ivory - white flowers, which ACINETA HUMBOLDTII, A. HUMBOLDTII FULVA, J/or/.—\ bear a few purple spots on the lp, and are dis- tinguished from those of other species by having narrow — erect side lobes to the lip.— New Grenada. A. HUMBOLOTH, in?- ley.— A noble plant, with pendent spikes two feet long of deep chocolate purple flowers, which are spotted on the sur- face, and have the petals much smaller than the sepals and of a deep rosy red, while the column is whitish; flowers about March, and continues but a short time in per- fection.— Venezuela. Fic.—Bot. Rey. 1843, t.18; MBA. Nor. Gen. i. ts. 93; Aloere, TU. Oreck, Acineta 1; 2. des Serres, x. t. 902; Orehid Album, Vet 207. Syn.—-lcineta superba; Peristeria Tumboldtii ; eluguloa superba. handsome and distinct variety with tawny-yellow flowers spotted all over with dots of purplish brown, the lip of a brighter ycllow spotted with decp purple. Tie.— Bot. Mag., +. 4156. Syn. Peristeria Humboldt di fulea, A. HUMBOLDTII STRAMINEA, /for!.—An interesting variety with the flowers of a pale straw yellow, with very few spots.—New Grenada. A. SUPERBA.—Sce Acixeta Hewponpti, A. WARSCEWICZII.—Sceo AcINETA DENSA. ACROPERA, 4 ACROPERA, Lindley. (Tribe Vandeae, subtribe Cyrtopodieae.) A genus of epiphytal plants bearing long loose racemes of large and curiously-shaped flowers. They are so nearly related to Gongora as to be included in that genus by some of our highest authorities on Orchids, the chief differences consisting in the broader sepals, of which the dorsal is galeate ; in the often biaristate tips of the petals, and in the articulated oscillating lip. The species are few in number, and are confined to Central America and Mexico. Cultwre.—These plants are nearly related to Gongora, and, like those of that genus, comprise species that are both pretty and curious. The flowers of those here described are large, and produced in great, profusion ; they do not thrive under cool treatment, which suits some other species, but they thrive best in the Cuttleya house, grown in baskets, with sphagnum moss and fibrous turfy peat. A. ARMENIACA, Lindley.—A free growing and somewhat slender plant, attaining about a foot in height, with somewhat oval pseudobulbs, producing from their apex a pair of lanceolate light green leaves, and from the base a slender drooping lax raceme a foot or more in length, bearing from twelve to twenty rich apricot-coloured flowers on a greenish purple rachis; blooms freely through the summer months, and is a very desirable plant for a basket.— Central America: Nicaragua. Fic.—Bot. Mag., t. 5501; Part. Fl. Gard,, i. 94, fig. 66. Bateman's 2nd Century, t. 116, SyN.—Aecropera cornuta ; Gongora armeniaca. A. AURANTIACA, Jindley.—A beautiful evergreen species, of neat compact habit, one of the most distinct of its family as regards the colour of its flowers, which last for a long time in beauty; it grows about a foot high, producing erect scapes with nodding spikes of bright vermilion-orange flowers, which are somewhat distantly disposed, and are peculiar for their closed form; it blooms in autumn and the early spring, and is of a very durable character.—New Grenada. Fig.—Bot. Magq., t. 5435; Lil. Hort., 3 ser., t. 167. A. CORNUTA.—Sec ACROPERA ARMENIACA. A. LODDIGESII, Lindley.—An old and not very showy: species, but an interesting one, as its flowers are very curious in their formation both in the bud state and when fully developed; the pseudobulbs are ovate and clustered, and from their base the drooping racemes of flowers are freely produced, the long ovary curving inwards so as to bring the flowers near to the rachis; they’ are of a pale tawny yellow, with the lip brownish-red, and give out a powerful 78 ORCHID-GROWER’S, MANUAL. odour resembling that of wall-flowers; blooms during the summer months, but does not last long.—Mewico. Fie.— Bot. Maq., t.3568 ; Loddiges, Bot. Cab.,t. 1645; Hooker's First Century, t. 69 Syx.—Varillaria galeata ; Gongora galeata. ADA, Lindley. (Lribe Vandeae, subtribe Oncidieae.) A small genus of epiphytal plants bearing gay and showy flowers. It is distinguished from Brassia by its free but erect connivent perianth divisions, which are appressed below, and spread only a little at the apex; by the wingless column, the base of which is dilated, and united with the base of the narrow undivided lip; by the two lamellee of the lip becoming confluent into a linear truncate appendage; and by the short obovate caudicle and circular gland of the pollen-masses. There are but two species known, natives of the Colombian Andes, where they are found at an elevation of 8,500 feet. Oultwre.—This handsome genus is nearly allied to Brassia. It should be grown in pots, in a compost of peat and sphagnum moss, along with such plants as Odontoglossiim