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How to establish and maintain an apple

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How to Establish
and Maintain an

Apple Orchard

By George T. Powell

Consumers Fertilizer Company
Longacre Bldg., 42nd St. & Broadway
New York City

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Copyright 1913 by
George T. Powell

Ke ens

HOW TO ESTABLISH AND MAINTAIN
AN APPLE ORCHARD

HE APPLE is the great standard fruit and is in universal
| demand. It is no longer a luxury, but like bread, has
become a necessity throughout the months in which it

may now be readily obtained.

It is not only beautiful in appearance and in its many food-
forms luscious in taste, but it contributes much to the tone and
health of the body. There is no other fruit at the present time
that commands such widespread interest, and that is being so
extensively planted.

While the apple will grow throughout a large territory and
in a wide diversity of soils and under differing climatic condi-
tions, good and high-flavored fruit may be produced only in soils
and at elevations that are well adapted to its requirements.

Selection of Site

In establishing an orchard that is to be productive (as it
should be), for more than a century, the elevation should be in
a range of from 400 feet to 2,000 feet above sea level. The land
should be rolling or sloping in character, while the soil should
be a strong deep loam of limestone formation.

The elevation is important, for upon this is dependent the
health and longevity of the trees. They thrive best in a pure
atmosphere where there is always a good air circulation and
good soil drainage. On high and sloping land, good natural
water-drainage is assured. This is as essential to trees as is
pure air.

On elevated sites, furthermore, there is less danger from
late spring frosts, for when the temperature runs low, cold air
moves down to lower levels, just as water flows from springs,
to brooks and streams below, which in turn run on to still lower
levels. A difference of fifty feet greater elevation will often
save blossoms from destruction by frosts.

Good water-drainage is very important. The roots of trees
must have good air about them in the soil the same as do their
bodies above the ground. On low level land, even with artificial

)

drainage (which is expensive), the soil often becomes saturated
during wet spells, when fungus troubles will develop and trees
become diseased and weakened, and fail to produce fine fruit —
their life at the same time being measurably shortened.

Preparation of the Soil

Soil that will produce sixty bushels of corn to the acre may
be profitably converted into an apple orchard. If the field is in
sod, it should be broken up and a crop of corn grown, so that
in the year following, the land will be in proper condition for
planting the trees.

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How to Lay Out the Planting Plan

A map or diagram of the proposed orchard giving the dis-
tances the trees are to be planted apart, and the names of vari-
eties, is quite necessary and most valuable for future reference.

After the land is plowed, set stakes on the four sides of
the field at such distances apart as the trees are to be planted.
Stake out two rows of trees through the center of the field at
right angles to each other as shown above, and locate the holes
where the other trees are to be set by sighting across the stakes,
as from A to B and C to D. This will secure alignment in all
directions, and is as simple a plan as can be devised.

There are two systems of planting that may be adopted —
one of planting permanent trees only — the other of inter-

6

planting with filler trees of early-bearing habit. The latter
plan will give earlier and larger profits, and on this plan the
permanent trees should be set forty-five feet apart each way,
and the fillers midway between them. This will require twenty-
two permanent trees and sixty-six filler trees to an acre — a
total of eighty-eight trees.

\

TWO-YEAR OLD TREE SAME TREE PRUNED
FROM NURSERY FOR PLANTING

A few varieties such as Yellow Transparent, Duchess, Wag-
ener and Jonathan, that do not grow to large size, may be
planted thirty-five feet apart each way. They may be planted
in blocks with fillers of the same varieties, but in doing this,
they should be given the forty-five foot space.

Planting the Trees

When the trees (which should be two years old), are re-
ceived from the Nursery, prune the roots by cutting them back
one-fourth their length, then prune off all branches excepting
four, so leaving them that they are separated from three to four
inches on the body of the tree. This will avoid crotches, which
would later result in the breaking down of the branches. Prune
the ends of these four remaining branches back one-half, and the
tree is ready to plant. Form the head of the tree 30 inches from
the ground. Trees may be planted in either Spring or Fall.

Vigorous one year old trees are also desirable for planting.

y

A WAGENER (STANDARD) TREE, FIVE YEARS PLANTED

If the subsoil is-of a somewhat loamy character, exploding
a half-stick of dynamite two feet under the soil, will open and
loosen it admirably. Another method, at less cost, is to plow
deep open furrows in line with the stakes, when with a little
shoveling out of the soil, the trees may be planted.

The trees should be set three inches deeper than they stood
in the Nursery. Roots should be spread, and the earth pressed
very firmly over them. Every tree thus planted should grow.

8

The Propagation of Trees Through Selection

It is of the most vital importance to select trees that have
been propagated and grown under scientific principles and
methods.

In orchards of the past, there was great want of uniformity
in growth, form, vitality and productiveness. This arose from
the fact that in the selection of buds for the propagation of
Nursery stock, no regard had been paid to the individual quali-
ties of the trees from which the buds were taken, which was
usually from the young and immature trees in the Nursery.

Where buds are used from mature trees that have a record
for hardiness, constitutional vigor, resistance to disease, and for
early bearing, productiveness, and a large degree of uniformity
in the character of the fruit, an orchard of trees propagated with
buds thus selected, and combining these necessary character-
istics, will return far greater profits and yield much greater
satisfaction than those not possessing such inherent qualities.

There is existing difference of opinion upon the value of this
line of work in the propagation of trees, but with the most sat-
isfactory results from bud selection with orchards of Thomp-
kins Kings, and other varieties running through four genera-
tions, and covering a quarter of a century, we consider such
evidence more convincing than the theories that may be urged
against it.

While it is true that soil, cultivation and fertilization will
greatly help all trees, it is nevertheless also true that trees propa-
gated from specially selected quality, will be superior over a
long term of years.

To accept the theory that trees are an exception to the gen-
eral law of improvement through selection in their propagation
and development, is not in accordance with the results that are
produced in every other line of work.

Varieties of Apples

The success of an orchard is largely dependent upon the
selection of varieties that are suited to the locality, in its soil,
climate and market requirements. Many of the apples of New
England and the Middle States are not adapted to the Southern

9

apple districts. Likewise most of the apples of the South are
not suited to Northern sections.

The Northern Spy, Baldwin, and Rhode Island Greening,
(the best standard Winter varieties in New York and New Eng-
land), are Fall varieties in Virginia and other Southern States,
ripening out of season and not developing their inherent fine
flavor and keeping quality.

The Newtown Pippin is particularly excellent when grown
in the Hudson River Valley, on Long Island, and in the Pied-
mont Section of Virginia. While this variety grows to a large
size and is beautiful in appearance as grown in the Pacific coast
territory, it does not have the fine, uniform, high flavor of those
grown ih these more favored sections of the East. Apples
grown in a dry atmosphere have longer keeping qualities than
those grown in a more humid climate, but the future demand
will be for high flavor rather than for long keeping.

The York Imperial and Winesap are particularly fine and of
high quality, grown in Southern Pennsylvania, Western Mary-
land, and Virginia, but these varieties should not be attempted
in a New England climate.

The Spy is not suited to all sections and soils of the North.
It is much finer when grown on a light loam or shaley-soil, and
on high elevations, where its flavor and color will be of the
highest. When grown on lower levels in a heavy clay soil, the
apples will be large, coarse, and of poor color, while the trees
will not begin to bear much fruit in from fifteen to twenty years.
In the right soil and elevation they will bear in six or seven years.

For New England the Baldwin is the most valuable commer-
cial variety. It is firm, juicy, of high color, moderately large in
size and of excellent flavor. It is in universal demand in home
markets, while for the export trade it has no equal.

The Rhode Island Greening is a standard variety of the
highest value for New York and New England.

So general has become the use of apples, that Summer and
Fall varieties are now very desirable products, as they are
increasing in demand, even during the season when peaches
and other fruits are in most plentiful use. Autumn apples should
therefore be planted in moderate quantity, where long-distance
shipping to market is not required.

10

The following varieties are among the best standard kinds
that are desirable for planting, and that, are well known in
most markets. Those marked with (*) are better suited to the
more Southern and Western territory.

For Summer
Red Astrachan Williams Favorite
Yellow Transparent *Red June

For Autumn

Duchess Twenty Ounce
_ Gravenstein Wealthy

Fall Pippin

For Winter

Baldwin Rome Beauty
Rhode Island Greening *Stayman’s Winesap
Northern Spy *York Imperial
King Winter Banana
McIntosh Red *Huntsman
Newtown Pippin Jonathan

Esopus Spitzenburg *Gano

Pound Sweet *Black Twig
Bailey Sweet *Grimes Golden
Wagener *Kinnagell’s Choice

Many other desirable kinds for home use as follows:
Early Harvest Chenango Strawberry Roxbury Russet

Golden Sweet Knickerbocker Gilliflower
Sweet Bough Delicious Lady Sweet
Fameuse King David Cox Orange Pippin

Richards Graft or Fall Strawberry

Crab Apples
Hyslop Transcendent
Large Yellow Siberian Excelsior (a table variety)
In selecting varieties for commercial orchards, study those
of the locality that have been thoroughly tried—plant such and
not to exceed two, or at most three varieties for each season.
There is far greater economy in the handling of labor and in
every operation in marketing to have large quantities of few kinds.

11

DWARF NORTHERN SPY, FIVE YEARS PLANTED

Dwarf Apple Trees

Except in gardens, dwarf apple trees have not been much
planted. There are two types—those propagated on Doucin
roots, known as the half-dwarf, and those on Paradise roots,
which is a smaller type of tree. Paradise trees may be planted
10 x 10 feet, which gives 435 trees to the acre, while Doucin trees
planted 20 x 20 feet, give 110 to the acre.

Dwarf trees require much more labor in every way—in prun-
ing, fertilizing and in high culture. For tHe more complete
control of insects, in thinning and picking the fruit, and the
larger number that may be planted to an acre, they are desir-
able, especially for small places and in suburban gardens.

They may be used for ornamental planting in a border or
hedge in landscape work. Nearly all varieties may be obtained
in the dwarfs.

They need to be planted deeper than standard trees. The
union between.the bud (the point where the bud is inserted in
the stock), should be four inches under the soil when planted.
Dwarf trees are not generally planted deep enough, for later,
when bearing fruit, they sometimes break off at the union and
frequently blow over in times of heavy wind, especially when
the soil is wet and soft. Doucin trees planted twenty by twenty
feet, requiring 110 trees to an acre, may have Paradise trees
of the same variety planted one way between them which will
make 220 trees per acre. The Paradise trees may be taken out
later when the space is needed by the Doucin trees.

The cost of planting an acre of apple trees on the inter-
planted or filler plan (the permanent trees to be forty-five feet
apart and fillers twenty-two and a half feet apart), will be as
follows:

88 trees at 30 cents.................. $26.40
Plowing the land.................... 3.00
Laying out planting plan and plowing

deep furrows along tree lines...... 1.00
Planting trees sss5sscies ouytsee sess 1.76
Harrowing and cultivating trees after

plantiitg’ oy snsasca veered tas 3.00
20 pounds of Clover Seed for cover

CEODe redone Gated Ke aan ead 3.00 $38.16

If permanent trees only are planted the cost for trees will
be $6.60 per acre.

For six years following, the annual cost for cultivation,
spraying, pruning and cover crops will average $12.60 per acre.

When fertilizers are required, add $6.00 per acre.

If crops of small fruits and vegetables are taken off between
the rows, a ton or more of fertilizer should be used per acre, but
the crops should pay thé entire cost and leave some profit.

All cropping should cease by the fifth year. In the seventh
year in the East, varieties like Duchess, Wealthy, McIntosh,
and Wagener should produce from $50 to $80 an acre, with a
steady increase in yield and value thereafter.

Where the sub-soil is somewhat hard or stiff, exploding it
with a half-stick of dynamite where each tree is to be planted,
will be of value and will aid in more rapid growth of the trees.
Where the soil is naturally open or porous this will not be
necessary.

Cultivation

When an orchard is planted the work should not end there,
though, in too many instances further effort ceases. This is why
there has never been overproduction of apples. If all the trees
that were planted lived to produce fruit there would be many
more apples than could be sold or used, but for the want of
proper cultivation and care not 40 percent of the trees mature.

In commercial orchards the soil should be thoroughly tilled.
This operation will keep the trees in a vigorous growing con-
dition. If the planting is done in a small or suburban lot, plow-
ing and cultivation with horses may not be practicable but the
soil may be spaded or dug about the trees even if for only a dis-
tance of four or five feet, and the result will be beneficial. The
soil may be raked or hoed frequently throughout the season,
thus keeping a dust mulch over the top.

In the commercial orchard it is well to plant corn for the
first two years, as this will shade the young trees during the
hot months of July and August, and the cultivation given the
corn is excellent for the trees. Potatoes may be grown provid-
ing five hundred or six hundred pounds of special potato fer-
tilizer is applied to the acre for each crop grown, otherwise

14

the soil will deteriorate. It is not wise to sow the small grains
or to grow grass in young orchards. It is sometimes desirable
to grow small fruits such as strawberries, currants and rasp-
berries in the open spaces between the trees, leaving, however, a
space of not less than six feet along the row of trees for culti-
vation. These crops if grown, should also be fertilized annu-
ally with five to six hundred pounds per acre of a commercial
fertilizer. After the trees begin to bear fruit, especially where
they are interplanted with fillers, it is better not to grow other
crops, but rather plow the soil in the early spring, and harrow
and cultivate it weekly until about the first of July. At that
time sow red and crimson clover in equal parts at the rate of
eighteen pounds per acre and cover the seed by harrowing the
ground lightly.

Clover is a leguminous plant. By the aid of certain soil bac-
teria, small nodules are produced on the roots which have the
power of gathering the free Nitrogen from the air. In this man-
ner, it is therefore possible to add Nitrogen to the soil in a
most desirable form. Another object of clover culture is to
cover the soil during the winter, which is highly necessary
after the fine tillage it has received, to save the washing away
cof valuable fine particles of soil during the heavy rains of
autumn and winter. Still another purpose in sowing clover is
for the improvement of the soil texture. Clover roots penetrate
deeply and bring up from the sub-soil unused plant food. It
also adds to the vegetable matter or humus, which is an im-
portant factor in holding and conserving moisture.

The clover should be plowed under, the following spring,
the soil again cultivated until the early part of July and then
re-seeded with the clover mixture. Crimson clover being
an annual will grow rapidly and make a large plant by the lat-
ter part of autumn. The red clover having a longer tap-root
will stand the winter better and will frequently come through
the spring in good condition, while the crimson will be more or
less killed by the freezing and thawing weather. The crimson
clover, however, did its work the preceding autumn, having left
in the soil a good supply of Nitrogen. Do not cut or remove the
clover, rather leave it to nourish the soil.

There is much interest and discussion over a system of

15

mulching the soil by allowing grass to grow, then cutting it and
placing it about the trees. While there may be a few favorable
instances with naturally moist soil, where this system will
work quite satisfactorily, yet in the great majority of locations
this plan will not be wise to adopt. Tillage combined with sow-
ing of clover as a cover crop will give far better trees and fruit.
In the mulching system there is always greater trouble from
insects and vermin. Field mice find this an excellent. place in
which to harbor, and many trees have been ruined by them,
Even though wire protection is placed about the trees a deep fall
of snow will permit the mice to girdle the trees above the wire.
From these points it will be seen that it is not wise to plant
orchards upon land that cannot be cultivated. There are, how-
ever, many orchards especially in New England, planted among
rocks which live and thrive to a certain extent.

Pruning

After apple trees are properly planted, but little pruning will
be required for about five years. The trees having been given
the right form at the time of planting, will require only a branch
to be taken out from time to time, that inclines to grow toward
or across the centre. A study of the future form of the tree
will enable one to see when a branch is putting out in a place
where it should not be allowed to grow.

The only pruning tool required for the first five years after
planting, is a pocket pruning knife. If, due to neglect during
the early stages, large branches have to be taken off later, there
is not only too much shock given to the tree, but it is exposed
to bacterial troubles by way of which diseases are introduced,
shortening the life of the tree and reducing its value. When
young trees are continuously pruned they are stimulated in
making growth of wood, and the bearing of fruit is deferred.
Where but little pruning is done, fruit spurs will begin te, form
on the lower parts or branches of the trees, and orchards will
come into profitable bearing several years sooner than where
constant annual pruning is done.

For illustration the Northern Spy, one of the choicest of all
varieties, as usually pruned, is a long time in coming into bear-
ing, often fifteen years, before it will show evidence of fruit-

17

SEVEN-YEAR OLD McINTOSH APPLE TREE — YIELDED NINE BUSHELS IN 1911

ing, yet it is possible to have this very excellent variety bearing
freely in seven or eight years from the time of planting.

Allow practically all of the wood to grow, up to five years,
then begin gradually to take out entire branches so as to give
the right form. Fruit spurs will begin to form, but a few
specimens only of fruit should be allowed to remain and mature
during the first two or three years.

Each year more fruit spurs will come out, when the trees
will begin to steadily increase in bearing tendency and capacity.
Removing wood in annual pruning stimulates an excessive
growth which retards the bearing period.

Under this system of light pruning during the first five years
after planting, the writer has taken nine bushel-boxes or three
full-barrels of apples from individual trees, in the seventh year.

For economy of operating, in spraying, thinning and picking
the fruit, low trees are better than high ones. The leaders
should be cut back once in two or three years to prevent the
trees from growing too high. Give an outward form to the
tree rather than too much of the upward.

Prune the lower branches to give them an upward growth —
prune back their ends and cut off all branches that incline to
grow downward from the under side of the lower branches.
This will give strength to the low branches near the body of the
tree and help to keep them up from the ground.

Under this system of pruning, there is no more difficulty in
cultivating low headed trees than in those started with high
heads, for the branches hold up well and are made strong and
heavy, close to the body of the tree. In pruning, a fine narrow
saw should be used, one that will make a smooth cut. Prune
close to the main branch. Do not leave stubs one or two inches
long. They will not heal and are attacked by bacteria which
produce disease, making short lived trees. Paint every wound
that is over one-half an inch in diameter. Any kind of paint will
answer, although disinfecting paints may now be procured.

After the trees come into free bearing not much pruning
will be required, as growth of wood will be checked, and
branches will then be carried outward and downward by the
weight of the apples, where the sun will reach all parts of the
tree and give the fruit good color.

19

Cut down and make the tops of trees as even and level as
possible, as shown on page 16. It is on the long shoots in the
tops of the trees that the San Jose scale spreads, and these are
difficult to reach in spraying.

The rest of the tree may be well sprayed but the few live
scales left on the tall shoots, breed and descend, and by picking-
time a large number of apples will be marked by them. Prune
the tops down to a level when this loss will be prevented.

A good pruner needs to be somewhat of an artist or archi-
tect. He must have a sense of form and be able to keep in mind
an ideal of the future shape of the tree that will result from the
pruning to be done in a period of five to ten years, during which
time the tree is being given proper form, that is to last for
a century or more of time.

In pruning dwarf-trees, start the branches down within six-
teen inches of the ground and keep the tops down. Allow Par-
adise trees to reach ten feet in height only, and Doucin not
above eighteen feet. Cut back the annual growth one-half, and
thin out the branches so as to have the trees well opened, that
the sun may shine on all parts of the foliage and fruit.

Pruning as late as possible — the last of May — will have a
tendency to check the growth somewhat and keep the tree more
easily dwarfed. Pruning when the trees are dormant — in the
winter — will promote growth, but when done late in the spring
even after the foliage has come out, will check excessive
growth of wood, which with dwarf trees is necessary. This will
also apply to standard trees but there is usually not the time to
do pruning in large orchards in May.

Spraying

With the great increase of insects and of tree and plant dis-
eases, spraying for their control has become a necessity and is
now a regular part of orchard work.

There are over three hundred different kinds of insects that
prey upon apple trees and their fruit. Some of these cause
enormous annual losses but they may be brought under control.

It becomes quite necessary to understand the object of spray-
ing — when — with what — and how it should be done.

There are two purposes for which spraying is done — one,

20

for the control of insects, the other to eradicate disease. There
are two types of insects, each of which requires different
treatment. One is known as chewing insects — those having
cutting jaws and which eat — the other known as sucking in-
sects — those that pierce the foliage or bark of trees and suck
the sap from them. As the first type eats, poisons are used in
spraying. For the second type, oil emulsions and caustic prep-
arations are used, which are brought in contact with the bodies
of the insects. The Aphides or plant lice, which are of the suck-
ing class, breathe through openings upon their bodies, and in
spraying oily substances over them, their breathing places are
closed and they are destroyed.

The San Jose Scale is one of the most serious insect pests of
the apple, and belongs to the sucking class. For its successful
control two sprayings are necessary, using first a miscible oil —
one gallon of the oil to fifteen of water — in the early winter or
as soon as the foliage is off the trees. The next spraying should
be done in the spring — near the time of the swelling of the buds
— using one gallon of Lime and Sulphur in nine gallons of water.
In the spring spraying, it is desirable to add two pounds of Ar-
senate of Lead to fifty gallons of Lime and Sulphur, which will
destroy the Bud Moth, that works inside of the bud and ruins
it. The Blister Mite is another insect that is checked by this
spraying. It is encased within the folds of the leaf buds and
works inside of the leaves, weakening them and causing them
to fall before the apples are fully developed or matured.

In these sprayings great thoroughness must be exercised.
Every part of the tree must be covered with the mixtures. The
San Jose Scale crawls out to the tips or ends of the branches
and if these are not reached, they will hatch during the season,
crawl down upon the lower parts of the trees, and before pick-
ing-time both the branches and fruit will be covered, and the
apples made unsalable.

There are several generations of the scale that increase in a
ten-fold ratio, and one pair in the spring will be the progenitors
of over 3,000,000 in a single season.

The next spraying will be for the Codlin Moth which is a
fruit insect. The moth usually lays one egg upon a young apple,
very soon after the blossoms have fallen, and it will lay about

21

fifty in number. The eggs will hatch in from six to eight days,
when the larva crawls to the blossom end, eats its way inside,
lives there for several months and eats its way out of the
apple, making a hole and a blemish that injures the fruit for sale.

To control this insect the fruit should be sprayed with Ar-
senate of Lead as soon as the blossoms have fallen, forcing it
into the calyx end of the blossoms that the poison may be there
when the larva begins to eat its way into the apple, as it does at
that point.

At this time also, for the protection of the apples against a
fungus that attacks them, and known as the Apple Scab, a fun-
gicide is used, of which there are several kinds. Those in most
general use are Bordeaux Mixture, Lime and Sulphur, Pyrox,
Sulfocide and some others. Bordeaux Mixture is made by dis-
solving three pounds of Sulphate of Copper and three pounds of
Lime, and putting them in fifty gallons of water. One gallon of
Lime and Sulphur is put into forty gallons of water to which
may be added two pounds of Arsenate of Lead, and both sprayed
upon the trees at the same time. Do not use Arsenate of Lead
in the other materials. Another spraying should be made about
twenty days later.

In many sections in the South, a second brood of Codlin
Moth will appear towards the last of July, when another spray-
ing with Arsenate of Lead without the fungicides should be
made. This will also apply to Southern New York, New Jersey,
and Southern New England.

These treatments should ensure 95 per cent. of perfect fruit.
ln using spray-materials which are obtained ready for use, fol-
low closely the directions of the manufacturers.

The Apple-tree Tent-Caterpillars are leaf-eating insects,
and many of these will be killed at the time of spraying for the
Codlin Moth, but when they build their silken nests they should
be taken out of the trees. This may be done by tying a piece
of cotton cloth in the form of a small bulb on the end of a fish
pole, running it into the nest and by a turning motion roll the
nest and caterpillars on the end of the pole when they may be
brought down and crushed on the ground. Do not use torches
for this work. The burning injures the trees.

The Canker or Measuring Worm appears periodically in

22

some localities usually in June or early July. These caterpillars,
unless checked, will completely defoliate the trees in ten days.
On their first appearance one thorough spraying with two and
one-half pounds of Arsenate of Lead in fifty gallons of water
will destroy them and save the foliage and fruit from injury.
These different sprayings will prevent the increase of a large
number of other insects that are of minor destructiveness.

Along in July and August will appear the Tussock Moth and
the Fall Web-worm. The former may be prevented from doing
injury to the foliage by spraying with two pounds of Arsenate
of Lead in fifty gallons of water, but the latter, like the Tent
Caterpillar, makes a web and should be taken out with the pole.
These caterpillars work on shade trees as well as on fruit trees.

The Gypsy-Moth is one of the worst pests of the entire
number. This, at present, is confined to New England. The
moth lays eggs in July and August, which hatch in the following
May. As soon as they begin to hatch, spray thoroughly with
a mixture of six pounds of Arsenate of Lead, to fifty gallons of
water. If not all killed, spray again in two weeks.

The Brown-tail Moth is another most serious pest and like
the Gypsy Moth is of foreign importation. The eggs are laid
in July and hatch out in August. Spray with a mixture of three
pounds of Arsenate of Lead to fifty gallons of water, as soon as
they begin to hatch in August, and again in the Spring for those
that may have been missed.

Look over trees for the Apple Tree Borer, and note if there
is any “saw-dust” at their base. If so the borers are working in
them. Cut away the bark slightly and run a small soft wire into
the opening and pull out or kill them in the hole. Bisulphide
of Carbon injected in the hole and grafting wax applied to the
opening will be found effective. These borers work in the light-
er soils and soon destroy the trees unless promptly taken out.

Examine the trees in June and October.

Bordeaux Mixture, Lime and Sulphur, Sulfocide, Pyrox and
several other fungicides are used with insecticides. Spray ac-
cording to the manufacturers’ directions.

The losses to fruit and other crops from insects amount to
$800,000,000 annually. Thorough and timely spraying will pre-
vent a large part of this loss.

23

Diseases and Injuries

While trees have much to contend with from the attacks of
insects, they are also exposed to fungus infections, and the
struggle against disease is constant.

Among some of the most prominent of these which affect
the wood and fruit are Blight, Canker, Crown-gall, Mildew,
Scab, Rust, Brown Rot, and Bitter Rot. Heavy pruning will
check Blight and often save the trees. Blight results from
immature wood, the sap of which is frozen in times of low
winter temperatures. The blossoms are first affected in the
spring through the circulation of diseased sap. Bees in seeking
the nectar in blossoms spread the disease among healthy blos-
soms and in this manner, entire orchards become infected.
Prompt pruning on first evidence of the disease will save many
trees. Cut back to sound healthy wood and disinfect the pruning
tools with a weak solution of carbolic acid, after the pruning
of each tree.

Reject trees that are received from the Nursery with marked
growth of Crown-gall upon them — an unnatural enlargement
close to the union between the tree and the root.

Canker is the result of fungus that develops in the wood of
the tree through some wound that has been made upon the
bark. As the disease progresses it often encircles a branch,
which dies. It also makes deep cavities in the body and large
branches of the tree.

Mildew attacks the foliage and new growth of trees in the
nursery, as also of the orchard.

Root Rot attacks the roots of trees. Such trees should be
taken out and burned.

Rust is a disease produced from a fungus that develops upon
the red cedar trees. The spores of this fungus are carried to)
apple trees near them, when both the leaves and fruit are cov-
ered with dark orange colored spots which injure the foliage
and ruins the fruit for sale. Spraying with Lime and Sulphur
when buds are swelling, and later the fruit, as before directed,
will largely control this disease.

The Rot in apples is the result of Monilia fungus that enters
the apple from any bruise or broken part of the skin. The
spores of this fungus on gaining entrance to the flesh of the

24

apple or of other fruits, immediately sets up growth that finally
destroys it.

In the illustration is shown the result of an experiment by
the inoculation of this fungus spore. The point of a fine needle
was thrust once, into a rotten spot upon an apple, and then
just touched upon a perfectly sound apple, in a number of places,
the fine point of the needle penetrating the skin by the lightest
possible touch. Eight days afterwards, the apple inoculated by
the needle point, showed the growth of the spores at the point.

ILLUSTRATING INOCULATION OF ROT

of each needle prick. Ten days later the growth of these spots
had extended to large patches of rot or decay, until finally the
entire apple was involved.

This experiment teaches the lesson of the great need of care
in every process of handling the fruit, that no bruises or injury
to the skin shall occur, for if it does, the apples are certain to
decay and cause loss.

Much of the spraying that is done for the control of insects
may include the fungicides for the protection of the fruit and
trees from disease so that both objects may be accomplished
in the same operation.

Injury from mice and rabbits has to be guarded against. Mice
eat the bark around the base of trees in times of deep snow, and

25

banding with wire to keep them out, is very expensive. In
spraying the trees therefore, start close to the ground and spray
the body and branches up about four feet with Bordeaux Mix-
ture and Arsenate of Lead, or with Sulfocide, before the snow
falls. In some instances this has saved the trees. Use one gal-
lon of Sulfocide to one gallon
of water, or one gallon of Bor-
deaux Mixture to ten gallons of
water.

Where young trees have had
the bark girdled all around the
trunk, they may be saved by
conducting the sap across the
girdled point through grafted
twigs. This is done in the Spring,
by making openings in the bark
close to the roots, as in grafting
and budding, making similar
openings above the girdled place,
and connecting them by insert-
ing small pieces of apple twigs
— the annual wood being good
for this purpose. The places
where the ends of the twigs are
inserted should be well covered
with grafting wax, and twine
drawn about them to prevent
their being broken out while
work is being done about the
trees. Valuable trees may be
saved in this manner, the sap go-
ing up through the twigs which ILLUSTRATING THE METHOD OF
will eventually support the tree. SAVING er Gin be soo une
When men are working about trees, allowing plows or other
implements to break the bark on the body of a tree, cover the
wound promptly with a disinfectant paint when it will quickly
heal over and no disease follow.

Careful attention given to the above details in spraying, and
prevention of injuries, will eliminate losses and add to profits.

26

Thinning the Fruit

To maintain an orchard to a high degree of productivity it
is most essential to conserve the productive forces of the trees.
With the soil liberally supplied with the plant food necessary to
maintain annual growth of wood and regular production of
fruit, supplemented by good culture and right pruning, trees
will set more apples than they can properly mature.

Trees do not produce fruit for the benefit of mankind but
rather for their own perpetuation, and if there were not a human
being on earth, trees would produce fruit just the same. For
the purposes of perpetuation nature is always prodigal, and
trees will overload with fruit that there may be the greatest
possible production of seeds with which to perpetuate the
species. Therefore when ‘nature is aided by artificial means
through systematic propagation and culture, the productive forces
of the trees must be conserved by regular thinning of the fruit.

This should be done first when the apples are one inch in
diameter. At this stage men should be instructed how to do
the work of taking off the surplus fruit. All apples should be
removed that are closer than three inches to each other. Fre-
quently there will be two, three, and four apples in a cluster
on one fruit spur — all but one should be taken off. Some skill
is required in this operation and great damage may be done
through ignorance, for in breaking off a fruit spur as is fre-
quently done, no fruit will ever again be produced in that place.

In thinning, the stem of the apple should be taken between
the thumb and first finger and firmly clasped, when the young
apple is grasped by the second and third fingers and by a quick
drawing movement is pulled or snapped off the stem. This
will save the fruit spurs from being broken through trying to
pull off the apples by main force. Women are particularly
suited to this work, which they do most skillfully, and on low-
headed trees requiring only step ladders, they can readily do
the work. With the best of care some fruit spurs will be broken
but at the most, they should not exceed two or three percent.

In giving instructions to those who do this very important
work the principle should be clearly explained. The work will
then be done with an intelligent understanding of its purpose,

27

SaaguL 4HUMG NO S3tddwW ONINNIHL

and will result in a large gain in the value of the trees, and at
a minimum of injury in the operation.

A second thinning should be made in about two weeks. At
this time every imperfect specimen should be taken off, and
a space of six inches left between all large varieties that grow
to two and one-half inches or more in diameter, and four to five
inches should be left between medium-sized varieties that reach
two and one-quarter inches in diameter.

This method will give very much more of the high grade
fruit that is most in demand, but most difficult to obtain. It
will save the productive energy of the tree, and in time will
result with many varieties in an annual production of appies.
When a tree is allowed to carry an overload of fruit it cannot
perfect the fruit buds the same year that it is maturing a large
quantity of fruit. The sole purpose of the tree is to produce
seeds. Its beautiful and fragant blossoms are not put forth
for human admiration and enjoyment but rather to attract in-
sects, especially bees, which in going from flower to flower carry
and distribute pollen to the blossoms to give vigor through
cross-fertilization, that there may be greater certainty in the per-
fection and development of seeds.

The process of seed-making is exhaustive of the food ele-
ments of the soil, and especially of the phosphoric-acid which
is highly essential in the formation of seeds. If from fifty to
sixty percent of the apples are taken off, in a full setting of the
fruit, a very large saving is made in plant food and in the energy
and vitality of the tree. A very much higher price will be se-
cured from the sale of the fruit, and with no reduction in quan-
tity, as, owing to its increased size, there will be as many boxes
or barrels of fruit as if the thinning had not been done.

The cost of thinning on large trees forty or fifty years old
with a heavy set of fruit will be from forty-five to sixty cents
a tree. On younger trees from fifteen to twenty years old the
cost will range from fifteen to twenty-eight cents a tree accord-
ing to the variety.

When the advantages and value of thinning are understood,
the cost of the operation is not only justified but becomes
imperative.

29

Value in Apple Orchards

In the universal interest in country life which during the last
decade has grown and developed to an unusual degree, the cul-
ture of the apple has attracted widespread attention. There has
been voluminous writing upon the subject, and quantities of
literature sent out, some of which unfortunately has been mis-
leading in character.

In another booklet now under way, entitled “Farming as a
Business,” the subject of markets and marketing will be fully
treated.

For the past twenty years the value of apples has ruled so
high as to prohibit their liberal use by the average consumer.
In 1896 the apple crop of the United States reached 70,000,000
barrels. Since that time there has been a steady decline in pro-
duction until the range is from 22,000,000 to 56,000,000: barrels
annually, and this in the face of rapidly increasing population.

By those who have given orchards the best of care, large
value per acre has been received. Facts and figures have been
given wide publication concerning instances wherein large
profits have been realized. These published statements have
given rise to an extensive speculative movement in the purchase
of cheap unimproved land, much of which is unsuited to the
culture of the apple, or, being located far from markets, with-
out adequate transportation facilities is too difficult of access
to be profitably worked. Under such conditions thousands of
acres have been planted to trees of many varieties without
knowledge of or regard to their adaptability to the locality or to
their proximity to markets. Land so obtained has been divided
and subdivided into tracts or units of one-half acre — one acre
— five — ten — twenty and more, and sold to investors at a
high price with an agreement at the end of five years to turn
over the orchards on a basis of profit sharing. Millions of dol-
lars have been poured into this channel of investment, by vast
numbers of city people who, through attractive exhibitions of
fruit put on display in the cities for several weeks, have been
made to believe that fortunes may be realized by buying one
of these small orchards, that many would never even look upon.

There are Orchard Companies, however, that have secured
suitable land in desirable places — that have the capital neces-

30

sary with which to develop orchards along the right lines —
that direct the entire business management of a large enterprise
in the interest of all money invested — in which the interests of
the small investor will be protected equally with that of others
— and such organizations are to be commended, for they are
established on right business principles. At the same time there
are large numbers of other companies that operate with entirely
speculative intent, being organized solely for the purpose of sell-
ing land at a large profit with no regard for the investors out-
side of obtaining their money. Orchards started under these
conditions will prove entire failures, and a disappointment to
those investing in them.

That the future promises substantial value in the ownership
of orchards rightly managed there is no question. There are
two lines of policy to be followed — one, that of the develop-
ment of small orchards of ten to twenty acres within twenty-
four to forty-eight hours of large centers of population — with
good markets — thereby gaining an important factor in reduced
cost for transportation. Any product to be used in a large and
constant way, must be supplied to the consumer at the least
cost that will give a reasonable profit to the producer. This may
be successfully done with the small orchard under intensive cul-
ture when the largest yield per acre of good.quality may be
produced and sent into nearby markets at small cost.

The other line of policy is to invest in a large Holding Com-
pany with a good business organization under the management
of men of knowledge and experience and backed with sufficient
capital to carry the enterprise to success. A company of this
character may put in every required facility and equipment that
will reduce the cost of operation to the minimum, and on the
basis of a fair percentage can handle the interest of the small
investor with satisfaction and profit to both. On this large
scale the principle of co-operation may be used, with the many
advantages which it affords.

An investigation made by the writer in 1898 concerning the
value of orchard land gave some interesting facts. Twenty
farms in a district in Western New York where the orchards
were considered as of secondary interest, and received no special
care, gave an average return over a period of five years of $85

31

an acre for the fruit at the farms. Another farm in the same
locality produced over the same period, an average of $110 an
acre, another, $140, while still another, containing but five acres
that had received high culture, and the best of care, returned
$700 an acre.

These figures show the range of value that may obtain in
orchard culture, from that of only ordinary care given, to that
of the best management that can be brought to the business.

The profitable culture of the apple in the future will demand
of those who engage in it, consideration of the following:

Land located near good markets.

Good soil suited to the growth of healthy trees.

Varieties of apples best adapted to the locality and of the
quality desired by the market.

Co-operative organization of those who engage in the busi-
ness, that grades and packing may be standardized to meet the
demands of the trade.

Systematic improvement of the soil. Plant food provided to
meet the enlarged demands upon the soil through increased
production.

Knowledge of insects and diseases of tree and fruit, that
losses from these causes may be reduced and prevented.

Absolute integrity established in the conduct of the business,
that the dealer and consumer may have entire confidence in the
purchase of products.

Production of apples at less cost, yet with a fair profit.

Quick transportation with better methods of distribution that
cost to consumers may be lessened, thereby making possible a
large and growing demand through increased consumption.

And above all, with a clear understanding — “That he who
plants a tree plants for time” — and that the planting of apple
orchards means a long-time investment with several years to
carry before profits may be expected — that with patience, per-
sistent effort in overcoming difficulties, with study, good care,
and sound judgment, such as must be brought to any success-
ful line of business — the future will bring to those who go
seriously into the culture of apples on the basis outlined above,
a large measure of satisfaction, enjoyment and value received.

32

List of Subjects

Treated in the Articles by
GEORGE T. POWELL

%

The Soil and Its Fertilization

Indoor Plants and Flowers

Garden Clubs—the Kitchen
Garden, the Lawn and
the Flower Garden

Small Fruit Culture

Farming as a Business

How to Establish and Maintain
an Apple Orchard

Peaches, Plums and Cherries
and the Culture of the Pear

Additional Articles on Special
Crops from time to time

Published by
Consumers Fertilizer Company
Longacre Bldg., 42d St. and Broadway
New York City

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