ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

NEW YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HoME ECONOMICS

CORNELL UNIVERSITY

Cornell University Library
SB 435.S85 1883

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rubs and vines

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SHADE TREES,

INDIGENOUS

Shrubs and Vines.

SECOND EDITION.

Revised and Improved,

J. T. STEWART, M. D.

PEORIA, ILL..
TRANSCRIPT PUBLISHING COMPANY, PRINTERS.
1883.

FIRST EDITION.

To My Readers:

The following pages are the result of many years observation
and much careful study. Every statement has been maturely con-
sidered. There may be, and doubtless are errors, but I am sure a
critical examination and the test of experience, will prove them to
be few. I have endeavored to put in a small compass as much prac-
tical information as possible, on a subject on which much is needed.
It was written expressly for this city, though parts of it apply
equally to other places.

J. T. STEWART.

SECOND EDITION.

This second and revised edition of Dr. J. T. Stewart’s paper on
shade trees, indigenous shrubs and vines, was written by request of
the Scientific Association of Peoria, and read before it December
22d, 1882.

It is a guide to tree culture in this city. On account of its in
trinsic value it is published by and under the auspices of the Asso-
ciation for the Benefit of the City and Surrounding Country.

It is hoped that all will read and appreciate it, as so much val-
uable and practical information on this subject cannot be obtained
from any other source.

Shade Trees.

A little time devoted by every family to the cul-
ture of shade trees and ornamental shrubbery would
add much to the healthfulness and beauty of our city,
and would have a refining and elevating influence upon
its people.

A tastefully arranged and nicely kept yard invites
every passer-by to a higher and better life, and is a joy
to the family forever. The growing children drink in
its beauty. and make it a part of themselves as surely
and naturally as they breathe their native air. Coarse,
unlovely children, brought up in the midst of lovely
surroundings, are impossible things.

In earlier ages men planted groves for places of
worship. The great, spreading trees, have an inspir-
ing influence. Avenues of trees in cities and in the
country relieve the residences of their naked and
cheerless aspect, and give them an air of comfort and
beauty which a harmonious blending of art and na-
ture always does. A house without a tree has na
charms for me. There is no poetry, no romance, no
inspiration there. The sylvan god is not there. The
goddess of beauty is not there.

The streets in the resident parts of all cities.
‘should be arched with trees. This is not difficult to
do. It requires care and time, aud when accomplished
gives to them their crowning glory. What can be
finer, or approximate nearer to our ideal paradise than.
a city robed in the verdure of the forest.

(10)

The Hackberry is a medium-sized tree, resembling
the Elm; has a medium growth, is clean and symmet-
rical. When not crowded its top rounds up well and
becomes quite dense. Its spray is the most graceful
of our forest trees, and it holds its leaves till late
in autumn. It is exceedingly tough. Its limbs never
break. It will bear any amount of trampling around,
and any amount of drouth, heat, cold, dust and smoke.
It bears a dark purple, globular stone fruit, about the
size of a pea, with a thin, sweet pulp, ripening late in
the fall. It is rarely infested with insects. The leaves
of young trees, set out in the city, have sometimes
been preyed upon by alittle insect late in the summer
until they drop off, but they come out again without
apparent injury to the trees. This I] have never seen
happen to old trees or to young ones 1n the forests. I
suppose, if we were to plant Canada thistles for orna-
ment or use, something would select them for their
victims, and seriously injure, if not destroy them. It
grows slowly when small, but when it becomes large
enough for transplanting, its growth is fully equal to
that of the elm. It requires as much care in trans-
planting as other trees, but when it is well started it
is there forever. In rich, bottom land it becomes a
large tree, but in poor, dry soil it only attains to me-
dium size.

The Catalpa has been to me the most perplexing
of all trees. It has been planted here more or less for
forty years, with varying success; some of the trees
flourishing, others dying, and others again growing
scragged, presenting a sickly and unsightly appear-
ance. Why this difference? It has been a mystery.
But within the last few years the mystery has been
solved, chiefly by the observations and labors of Dr.
John A. Warder, of North Bend, Ohio; E. E. Barney, of
Dayton, Ohio, and Prof. C. 8. Sargent, of Harvard Uni-

(11)

versity, Cambridge. It has been proven that there are
two species in our country, or, at least, two well
marked varieties of the Catalpa. They have been de-
nominated the Catalpa bignonioides and the Catalpa
speciosa. The former isa native of Georgia and North
Carolina, the latter of Tennessee, Kentucky, Southern
Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and Southeastern Missouri. The
former is tender here, and the latter is perfectly hardy.
We have had both kinds. The former have nearly all
died out. The latter has proved to be one of our finest
and most reliable shade trees. It has large, heart-
shaped, pointed, entire leaves and showy flowers, white,
“tinged with violet and dotted with purple and yellow

. in the throat,” pods pendant, eight to eighteen inches
long.

Besides the difference in the hardiness of these
trees, the Catalpa speciosa grows more upright and
symmetrical, the top being more compact, attains to a
much larger size, it blooms two weeks earlier, bears
larger, whiter, and more showy flowers, has larger and
longer pods, heavier and broader seeds, that are “de-
cidedly winged and fully fringed at both ends.” “The
bark of the bignonioides in maturer trees is light gray,
scaley and easily detached in small, thin plates. The
bark of the speciosa, while light gray in young trees,
becomes darker with age, adheres firmly, and is fur-
rowed and rough.” The former becomes a tree of one
to two feet in diameter, while the latter is a great for-
est tree, attaining occasionally a diameter of three and
four feet, and in the woods raising to a great height,
sometimes fifty feet without a limb.

The wood of the Catalpa speciocia is said by the
best authorities to be almost indestructible. If sawed
into blocks of proper size, it would probably make the
best wood pavement in the world.

(12)

Unfortunately the distinction between these two
varieties or species is not apparent till they are too
large to transplant; hence we must rely on the integ-
rity of the nursery men who raise them from the seed.
They now have no excuse for deceiving us, as every
intelligent nursery man is supposed to be posted as to
the difference between the two kinds of the Catalpa.

The Soft Maple is a rapid grower, a clean, elegant
tree, but is very brittle. The limbs are liable to split
from the body and break off. In their native forests
they grow close together, tall and slender, and protect
each other from the wind; the tops are smaller and
the limbs less liable to break. The bark is tender
when young, and requires careful protection. Much
fault has been found with this tree and it has serious
faults; yet, the fact that it will grow, and grow rapidly,
and speedily make shade and is a handsome tree with-
all, are qualities which will always keep it in the front
rank ag a shade tree in this place. It is somewhat
subject to the inroads of the borers. . They have lately
been attacked by a barklouse—the Lecanium acericola
—which has destroyed some trees and injured others
in certain sections of the city. It first made its ap-
pearance in 1874, but not much damage was done by
it last summer. It may pass away as other noxious
insects have done before. The Soft Maple prefers rich
bottom lands, but will grow almost anywhere.

The Box Elder is a medium sized tree, having a
medium growth, and while young a tender bark, but if
protected does well and is quite hardy. Like its rela-
tive, the Soft Maple, it is sometimes injured by borers.
It bears cultivation well and isa handsome tree any-
where, but in the river bottoms where it luxuriates, it
is very beautiful, and makes a rapid growth. On
moist, rich prairie land but few trees grow more rap-
idly or present a finer appearance.

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The White Elm is, perhaps, the most famous of
our American shade trees; but, in this dry soil, it will
not develope its full proportions, therefore it must
take a second place. Its top is apt to become open and
unsymmetrical, and it is sometimes seriously injured
by bark lice. For a few years after it is set out, it
grows slowly, but finally improves and grows quite
rapidly. It is so well known that it needs no especial
description.

In certain localities it flourishes well. In all that
—sag immediately under the bluff—it can be relied on
and develops well. In a few other places where the
ground is moist underneath, it holds no second rank.

The European Elm requires the same kind of soil,
the same conditions, is equally hardy, grows as fast,
makes a tree of about the same dimensions and is pre-
ferable because the top is more upright and compact,
therefore making a denser shade.

The European and American Linn are elegant
trees and do well. The former is the more handsome
of the two, and merits more attention than it has re-
ceived. It is preferable because it is equally hardy
and the top is more compact. The Linden isa historic
tree, and around it many romances have been woven.
Its foliage is elegant, and when in flower it is the most
fragrant tree in the temperate zone. The honey bees
luxuriate on it, and honey made from its flowers is
more delicious than any other honey in the world.

The Lymbardy Poplar—Populus dilatata—is a
unique tree, a rapid grower, rather handsome, but is
very short lived. Itisa native of Persia and probably
other parts of Asia. It grows there and in Europe,
where it has been ‘introduced and extensively culti-
vated, to a height of one hundred and one hundred and
fifty feet. In this country it rarely grows more than

(14)

from fifty to seventy feet high, with a top not more
than ten feet in diameter. None but trees bearing
staminate flowers have been introduced into this coun-
try; therefore it must be propagated by cuttings. It
will grow in any soil. In places where the streets
have been graded down into the pure sand, plant Lum-
bardy Poplars and they will grow. When they begin
to die at the top, saw them off eight or ten feet from
the ground and they will renew themselves with won-
derful rapidity.

The Sycamore is a stately tree, and should, by no
means, be neglected. It prefers moist, rich land, but
does reasonably well here.

The Green Ash—Fruxinus viridis, a native of our
forests, is a handsome, medium sized tree, and grows
reasonably well. In places that are not too much ex-
posed it is well worth planting.

The European White Birch is a fine ornamental
and hardy tree. It will thrive in the dryest and most
barren soil. The cut-leaf variety is very ornamental.
It does not make much shade, and is well adapted to
inside planting in any part of the city.

The American White Birch—Betula populifolia—
which should probably be regarded as a variety of alba,
is also an ornamental tree, will thrive in the same
soil and is well worthy of cultivation.

The fhar'd Maple.

We are not now discussing the relative merits or
demerits of trees as trees, but their fitness for our pur-
pose. For beauty and durability, the Hard or Sugar
Maple—Acer saccharinum, stands among the very first
forest trees of America or the world, but unfortunately,
except in a few places, it will not live between the bluff

(15)

and the river. From the early days of Peoria to the
present time, it has been tried again and again, and
has almost invariably failed.

It can only be relied upon in those localities above
indicated for the elm, that is in that depression, or sag
under the bluff, and a few other places where there is
a moist subsoil.

The Kentucky Coffee Tree, or as it is commonly
called, the coffee nut tree—Gymnocladus Canadensis,
we would especially recommend for the beauty of its
foliage. In this respect, it has no equal in our forests,
and but few superiors in the world. It has very large
decompound leaves, with a multitude of graceful leaf
lets. It is usually a small tree, but sometimes attains
to considerable size.

The Horse-Chestnut—sculus hippocastanum, a
native of Asia, cultivated extensively in Europe and
America for a shade tree, is quite ornamental and
hardy. It grows slowly while young, but after a few
years its growth is quite satisfactory.

The Burr Oak, Over-Cup or Mossy-Cup White Oak
—Quercus macrocarpa, is the only native oak which
will bear cultivation inacity. It prefers rich soil, but.
will grow anywhere except where it is too wet. It is
one of the most hardy trees we have. It will bear
much abuse and live. It is a handsome tree when
young, and the larger it grows the more stately it be-
comes. The only serious objection to it is the very
slow growth it makes.

The frontis-piece represents a typical Bur Oak
shade tree. It grows in the front yard of the Work
House and is worth driving many miles to see. It is
sixty-three feet high. The trunk three feet above the
ground measures sixteen feet in circumference. The

(16)

trunk divides just above this point. One of the divi-
sions measures ten feet in circumference and the other
one nine feet in circumference. A branch from the
larger division comes off four feet from the ground,
which measures five feet and three inches in circum-
ference. The top is seventy-four feet in diameter,
which gives it a circumference of two hundred and
thirty-two feet. It is healthy and vigorous and pre-
sents a grand and imposing appearance.

Trees on the Bluff.

On the bluff we are not restricted as we are under
it. All the trees recommended for below will do well
here and most of them much better. Here the hard
maple and the elm assume their proper place in the
front rank. Here they have no superiors as shade
trees. They are clean, hardy, long lived and always
beautiful.

The Norway Maple—Acer platanoides, is a splendid
tree, with a well rounded dense top, and a profusion
of foliage. There is no tree more hardy. It isa na-
tive of northern Europe. It grows faster than the
hard maple, its foliage is more dense, it puts out its
leaves earlier in the spring and holds them later in the
fall. We cannot too strongly recommend it.

There are several other varieties of maples culti-
vated and sold by the nursery men. Some of them are
highly ornamental, and all are hardy.

The Cucumber Tree—Magnolia acuminata, is a
large and elegant tree, growing sixty to eighty feet
high. It is perfectly hardy and in rich land grows
rapidly. Itisa native of Western New York, Pennsyl-
vania, Kentucky, Tennessee, Southern Ohio and Indi-

(17)

diana. Leaves petioled, eight to fourteen inches long,
six to eight inches wide, oblong-lanceolate, acuminate,
entire, smooth above and downy beneath, conspicu-
ously ribbed. Top pyramidal and symmetrical. It is
but little known here, but a few having been intro-
duced. Itis one of the very finest ornamental shade
trees, suitable for any part of the bluff and for Central
Illinois generally. It can be procured from almost
any of the nurseries, and I hope many more of them
will be introduced.

The Mulberry—Morus #egcu, is a fine little indi-
genous tree. In rich land it attains to considerable
size, but is ordinarily asmall tree. It is well worthy
of cultivation.

The Black Walnut is a large forest tree, and where
it is not trampled about, and there is not too much
smoke and dust, does well. Itis one of the finest trees
in the world for timber, but in a city is not well
adapted for a shade tree.

The Black Cherry—Pranus cerotina, is an elegant
little tree, somewhat tender, but with reasonable care
will grow and make a beautiful shade tree. It fruits
early, and one tree will bear all the fruit any family
will want for making cherry bounce. The tent cater-
pillars choose it before all other trees, but they do no
harm until after they begin to Build a tents, then
they are easily destroyed.

The Honey Locust—Gleditschg ii triacanthos, is
large forest tree growing from eighty to one ere
feet high. It does not give much shade, but it isa most
graceful and ornamental tree. Its leaves are pinnate
and bi-pinnate, with very small leaflets, which are a
deep, rich green color. The general aspect ‘of the tree
is so different from any other of our trees, and its
foliage is so graceful, that it always attracts attention.

(18)

There is a variety which is thornless, or almost so,
which is preferable to those which are full of great
thorns.

The Betula papyracea—Canoe Birch, the bark of
which the Indians used for making canoes, is a hand-
some tree, grows rapidly on rich prairie soil, and would
do well on the bluff.

The Black, Yellow and Red Birches are all natives
of the northern part of the United States and Canada,
are all handsome trees; prefer moist, rich land, and
do well here.

The Sassafras is a handsome little tree, hardy and
well adapted for inside planting, either on or under
the bluff. It is the only representative of the Laurel
family in this vicinity. Every part of the tree is
aromatic, especially the bark and leaves.

The Butternut or White Walnut is rather a hand-
some little tree, and does well inside where there is
not much smoke and dust.

The Mountain Ash is worthless under the bluff,
but in some protected places on the bluff, has done
reasonably well. It is too handsome to discard alto-
gether.

The White Willow—Salix alba, is a good tree, a
native of Europe, a rapid grower, and flourishes here.

The Persimmon cultivates well, and is a fine little
shade tree.

The common Silver Leaf Poplar grows rapidly
almost anywhere, but on exposed places is short lived.
It is subject to borers and sprouts dreadfully.

The Cottonwood is a rapid grower and flourishes
in any moist soil, but cannot be regarded as a choice
tree.

(19)

The Yellow Poplar, or Tulip tree—Liriodendron
tulipifera, winter-kills and is unreliable. In some
protected places a few have grown to considerable
size and are still healthy and vigorous, but nearly all
that have been put out in the city are now dead.

The Pecan has been highly recommended, both
for a shade and fruit tree. How this may be I cannot
say from observation. I hope it may prove to be an
exception to the hickory family, of which it is a mem-
ber, as it is a useful and ornamental tree.

The Ailanthus kills back in the winter and can-
not be recommended.

The Black Locust has, fortunately, been killed by
borers. It is a rapid grower but not a choice tree.

Fruit trees are rfot desirable for shade trees in a
city. The Apple, Peach and Cherry, especially the two
latter, are short lived. The Pear tree lives longer, but.
the heat, smoke and dust of cities injure them all, and
prevent them from fruiting well.

The Chestnut tree has done badly and cannot be
recommended.

(20)
Coniferte.

J. DEcIDUOUS.*

The Larix, or Larch. is a cone-bearing tree, with
needle shaped leaves, but not an evergreen.

The Black Larch, Hackmetuck, Tamerack—Lariz
Americana, grows in swamps in the north and north-
western portions of the United States, and further
north it is found also on uplands. It flourishes on our
prairies; will also do well on the bluff, and is a hand-
some tree.

The European Larch—Larix Europea, is a native
of the mountainous parts of Europe, and the, south of
Russia. It is extensively cultivated in England and on
the continent of Europe for timber and ornament. Its
timber is among the most durable and valuable in the
world. Itis a rapid grower and very ornamental. It
is one of the most reliable and desirable trees for
planting on the bluff.

2. EVERGREENS.

Under the bluff, except in a few spots where clay
is mixed with the subsoil, all evergreens have failed, and
will continue to fail. They live and thrive a few years
and then die for want of nutriment. They literally
starve to death. We do not know how to supply the
deficient nourishment, and if we knew, it would prob-
ably cost too much to be practicable. But on the bluft
a few species will succeed.

The Scotch, Austrian and White Pine may be re-
commended.

_ The Scotch Pine—Pinus sylvestris, is the least orna-

mental of the three; but it is so hardy, grows so well,

*Trees that shed their leaves annually.

(21)

and is so easy to cultivate, that in a place like this,
where so few evergreens will flourish, it is worthy of
notice and should be planted. It constitutes a large
part of the forests of Northern Europe, and makes the
best of timber.

The Austrian Pine—Pinus Austriaca, is a native of
the mountainous regions of Austria, where it grows to
the height of one hundred to one hundred and twenty
feet. It is more ornamental than the last, and is
equally hardy, but requires more care in transplanting.
As it becomes a large tree, and is a rapid grower, it
should not be crowded, but have an abundance of
room. The same may be said of the White Pine and
the Norway Spruce.

The White Pine—Pinus strobus, is so well known
it needs no description here. In Pennsylvania, New
York, New England, Michigan, Wisconsin and Minne-
sota it has been very abundant, and in partsof Michi-
gan, Wisconsin and Minnesota it still is. It is the tree
from which our common pine lumber is made. It is
one of the most graceful trees of the pine family. If
it were a rare foreign tree, its beauty would be appre-
ciated. It grows well onthe bluff, and should be more
extensively cultivated for ornament.

Perhaps it may be proper to add the Yellow Pine
—Pinus mitis. Itis rather a pretty evergreen and will
grow on the bluff.

The Norway Spruce—Abies excelsa, is one of the
finest of evergreens. It is a lofty forest tree, indigen-
ous to Northern Europe and Asia, and further south
among the mountains, where it is very abundant. It
lives to a great age. It is said by Michaux to require
one hundred and fifty years to develop its full propor-
tions. Bryant, in his work on forest trees, says: “No
other evergreen is more easily raised from seed; no

( 22)

other is more cheaply obtained from nurseries: no
other is more successfully transplanted. It is perfectly
hardy; its growth is vigorous and vapid; its branches
and foliage dense and compact, and it readily adapts
itself to a variety of soils and climate. Its lower
branches are persistent; its growth is perfectly up-
right, and where room is allowed, it pushes its limbs
out in all directions, in defiance of the force of the
wind.”

The Hemlock—Abies Canadensis, is a graceful
tree, with dense, dark green foliage, a native of the
colder parts of the United States and Canada. It will
doubtless thrive best where it is somewhat protected
from the sun.

Bryant says of it: “Although despised as ‘com-
mon’ by many in the countries where it is native, the
Hemlock has few, if any, equals among evergreens as
an ornamental tree.”

The Balsam Fir—Abies balsamea, is handsome
while young, but is short lived and of little value.

The Red Cedar—Juniperus Virginiana, does reas-
onably well on the declivities of the bluff. Its growth,
however, is very slow, and in the winter its foliage be-
comes dark and dingy.

The Dwarf or Ground Juniper—Juniperus commu-
nis, and the Swedish and Irish Junipers, which are va-
rieties of this species, is an evergreen which we must
not overlook or neglect. It might have been placed
among the other shrubs, but | prefer noticing it here.
It is a prostrate or ascending shrub, with a profusion
of branches spreading in all directions, and is very
ornamental. It will flourish on the mostexposed grav-
elly and barren knolls of the bluff, where few other
things will grow. If extensively planted in these

(23 )

places, it would relieve them of their barren aspect,
and add much to their beauty. They may be obtained
at most of the nurseries.

The Arbor Vita—Thuja occidentalis, is the best ev-
ergreen for ornamental screens and hedges. It prefers
rocky places, the borders of streams or swamps, but
grows well on the bluff, as it does on prairie soil gen-
erally.

Doubtless other evergreens will grow here, and I
hope more may be introduced on trial, but the success
of those we have named is already an assured fact.

Transplanting Deciduous Trees.

In this climate, all transplanting of trees should
be done in spring. They should be neither too large
nor too small, but about medium size. If they are too
large they will not do so well, and if they are too
small it involves an unnecessary loss of time. They
should be dug up carefully, and plenty of roots taken
with them. The roots should be exposed neither to
the sun nor cold air, nor be allowed to dry. Many
trees are ruined in this way before they are set. Never
buy or receive trees that are brought into the city with
the roots exposed, unless it is a cloudy, damp day, and
you know they have been recently dug. The roots
are necessarly more or less broken and cut off, the top
should be cut back in proportion, so as to maintain an
equilibrium between them. They should be set the
same depth or a little deeper than they originally grew.
Each root that is broken should be cut smoothly with
a sharp knife, sloping from the tree outwards, with the
cut surface downward. The hole should be large, and
when the tree is set in it, filled with fine earth to near

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the surface, taking care that the rootlets are well spread
out and put in their natural position, then fill up with
water, and while it is settling, work the tree up and
down, so that every crevice will be filled ‘with earth,
in a semi-liquid state; in this way, every root will
come in immediate contact with the soil. This is one
of the most important things to be observed in setting
a tree. Then fill the hole to a level with the surround-
ing earth and mulch with old straw, rotted leaves, or
(what is equally good) four or five inches of sand, this
will retain the moisture till the roots grow and acquire
strength to support themselves. One or two quarts of
oats, or one-half peck of potatoes put in the bottom of
the hole before the tree is set, wiil assist in retaining
moisture about the roots.

The bodies of trees need no sunlight. They are
better without it. In their native state they are usu-
ally protected by their own branches, and by other
trees when young, and as they grow older their own
tops shade them. The bodies of many young trees
are killed by the sun, chiefly in July and August, on
the southwest side. To obviate this it is a good plan
to nail two narrow boards together so as to make a
quarter box, sharpen the lower end and drive it in the
ground, having it high enough to reach the lower
limbs, placing one wing of this box on the south side
and the other on the west side of the tree. This is all
the protection from the sun they need, and will save
many trees which, without this protection, would be
killed by the sun, or so seriously injured they will
eventually break down.

For the first few years it is better to spade around
them every spring, and mulchthem. In the fall, when
the leaves drop, leave them under and around the
trees, they give protection to the roots and nutriment

(25)

to the soil. Leaves should never be removed from our -
lawns or grass plats, as they protect the grass in win-

ter and enrich the ground more than anything else
that can be applied.

When trees are set in rows, each row should be of
the same kind. Planting different species in the same
row, especially alternating them, destroys the effect
and shows bad taste. Ina large ground or park, where
they are planted promiscuously, in imitation of nature,
a judicious mingling and grouping of different species
is in good taste, and gives the whole a natural and
pleasing appearance.

Transplanting Evergreens.

The same principles that apply to the transplant-
ing of deciduous trees, apply also to evergreens, but
greater care is necessary to insure success. There is
one difference, however, the tops should not be cut.
back. The roots must not be exposed to the sun, to
drying winds, or to cold. As soon as the tree is taken
from the ground its roots should be dipped in liquid
earth, and then covered with wet canvas, moss or
straw, so as to retain the moisture until it is reset. A
failure to observe this will be likely to injure, if not
ruin it. Cloudy weather is the better time to trans-
plant all trees, especially evergreens.

It is better to transplant evergreens while small,
as they will then make better trees, and are less lable
to die. All authorities agree that they should not be
transplanted during the growing season, and most of
them agree that here in the west, the best time is
in early spring.

(26)

Pruning Dudciduoug Tees,

As a general rule, the less shade trees are pruned
the better. Nature will form a better top and a more
harmonious tree in all its parts than art. Severe prun-
ing is no longer practiced even in fruit orchards by our
best horticulturists. The custom that formerly pre-
vailed, of pruning evergreens and other trees, so as to
make top-shaped, ovate, and other fantastic tops, is no
longer regarded as showing the best taste. If you
want a tree with a low spreading top plant one that
grows that way. If you want an ovate or pyramidal
top, plant a tree that will make such a top, but do not
attempt to force trees to assume different forms from
those which nature gives them.

The true idea is to make each species assume as nearly
as possible the typical form of that species. To do this,
some pruning is sometimes necessary. If trees are not
crowded—if each one has room enough for the air and
sunlight to have free access to it on all sides, it will
round out and develop its full proportions, and if it
does not actually attain it will approximate its typi-
cal form. Where the lower limbs are in the way, of
course they must be sacrificed, but where they are not,
leave them and you will have a finer and more thrifty
tree. If a limb, as is often the case with the elm in
our dry soil, extends beyond the rest, absorbing the
strength and destroying the symmetry of the tree, it
should be cut back while yet small.

The Soft Maple often throws out limbs which have
no firm attachment to the body, and will sooner or
later split off; these should be removed while small.
The idea of cutting back the top of a soft maple, or
any other tree, to prevent it from becoming top-heavy,
is fallacious; it relieves for the time, but makes it

(27)

worse afterward. If a Soft Maple, as some of them
will do, breaks bodily, and continues to do so, it is bet-
ter to remove it and plant another in its place. Severe
pruning lowers the vitality of any ordinary tree, mak-
ing it less able to bear the drouth and heat of summer
and the cold of winter, and leaving it an easy prey to
borers and other noxious insects.

As a strong man is able to resist disease, so a
vigorous tree is able to resist the attacks of its ene-
mies, while a feeble one succumbs.

‘So far as possible all limbs should be removed
while small. It is rarely necessary to cut a large limb
from a tree that has been properly cared for.

The Time for Pruning Dediduoug Trees.

On this question there is much difference of opin-
ion among tree-growers. Some contend that late
autumn is the best time; others, that it should be done
while the tree is in its most vigorous growth, say in
May or June; others again, in the early part of the
growing season, when the young leaf stems first show
themselves. I think the last is the most favorable
time, for then we have almost the entire summer’s
growth to heal over the wound. All agree that the
worst possible time is in early spring, just when peo-
ple usually prune. If pruning is done at this time, as
soon as the sap begins to flow, it exudes from the
wounds, weakens the tree, and is apt to cause the wood
to decay. Trees recently transplanted are an excep-
tion, they do not suffer in this way, and for special
reasons, usually require more or less pruning when
set out. The wound left after removing a large limb
is best treated by a mud plaster, bound on with cloth.
Wax, which is often recommended, becomes heated

( 28 )

by the sun, and is liable to irritate and blister the
parts around the wood. The wounds that are made in
cutting off small limbs need no application.

There is usually a ridge, called the collar, around
the base of each limb. It has been a subject of dis-
pute whether this collar should be removed with the
limb, or left on and the limb cut outside of it. I pre-
fer removing it. If it is not removed it is apt to die
down to the body of the tree. There are often latent
buds in this collar which develop when the. limb is
taken off. Though in removing it the cut surface is
a little larger, yet it heals over quicker and smoother,
and there is no sprouting around it.

Pruning Evergreens.

Deciduous shade trees require little pruning, and
evergreens still less. The beauty of an evergreen is
spoiled when the lower limbs are removed. If any of
the side branches become irregular, or grow out of
proportion, they should be shortened. If the tree
throws up two or more leaders, all but one should be
removed. If the leader is lost, it may throw up a new
leader itself. If it does not, “it may be restored by
lashing a rod to the stem of the tree, and tying one of
the side shoots to it, in a position as nearly upright as
possible.” If this fails, dig up the tree and put another
in its place.

4

General Hitections for Setting Shade Trees

All trees, to develop into perfect shade trees, re-
quire the sunlight and fresh air all around them. If
trees are planted for timber they should be placed near
together, and in large bodies. Then, to. obtain sun-

(29)

light and fresh air, they are forced upward, the lower
branches, which are deprived of these, dying. This
makes a tall trunk and small top, just what we do not
want in shade trees.

Too many trees should not be set round a house,
and no large trees should be set near it. A certain
amount of sunlight and plenty of fresh air are nec-
essary to health. If there is too much shade both
are obstructed and the premises become damp and
unhealthy. If large trees are placed near a house it
renders topping of them necessary in a few years, and
afterward cutting back from timeto time. This treat-
ment always injures trees. Shrubbery comes in here
of various kinds and sizes, to suit the taste of the
owner, or small trees, as the Mulberry, Wild Cherry,
Sassafras, Persimmon, Coffee Nut, etc.

No yard should be crowded with small trees or
shrubbery. A few of them, well chosen and well ar-
ranged, shows better taste and presents a finer appear-
ance. A clean grass plat is hard to beat.

In setting trees due regard should be had to the
size they will naturally attain. The larger trees, as
the Maples and the Elms, should be twenty or twenty-
five feet apart, smaller ones require less space. The
Lombardy Poplar grows very tall, with a remarkably
long and slender top, rarely becoming more than ten
feet in diameter; therefore, they may be, when put in
a row, set ten feet apart, and still give the trees ample
room to develop into their full proportions.

If trees are set in this way, that is far enough
from our houses, and given plenty of room, and then
never trimmed to any extent, they will be handsomer,
more healthy and vigorous than they can possibly be
by any system of severe pruning.

(30)

Indigenoug Shrubs.

There are, in this vicinity, a number of ornamen-
tal shrubs to which I wish to call attention. They are
not appreciated for two reasons; first, though growing
around us, they are scarcely known, and; second, they
do not come from Europe, China, Japan, or some other
foreign country.

The June Berry, Service Berry, Shad Bush—Ama-
lanchier Canadensis, is intermediate between a tree
and a shrub, attaining to the height of from fifteen to
twenty feet, belongs to the Rosacez family, has a grace-
ful form, clean bark, and beautiful foliage. It covers
itself in early spring, before the leaves are out, with a
profusion of racemes of white flowers, which are very
beautiful. It bears an edible berry, about the size of
ahuckleberry. It grows on the river hills above Pros-
pect Hill, across the river among the bluffs, and also
on Kickapoo Creek. It is hardy, and few shrubs are
more ornamental.

The Red Bud—Cercis Canadensis, is a large shrub,
or small tree of the Leguminosz order, with large,
heart-shaped, smooth, entire, pointed leaves, and in
early spring before the leaves appear, bears a profusion
of red-purple flowers. It is clean, free from insects,
holding its leaves tilllate autumn. It prefers rich soil
_and is easily cultivated. It is common in this vicinity,
and deserves more attention than it has received.

There are three species and a number of varieties
of the Red Haw in this vicinity, Cratagus coccinea, to-
mentosa and Crus-galli, all of which are worthy of cul-
tivation. They are large and very hardy shrubs, some
of them attaining to the size of sinall trees. They all
bear white flowers in the spring, and red berries in the

(31)

fall. They belong to the Rosaceze family, and are no:
mean representatives of it.

The Black Haw—Viburniwn lentago belongs to the
Honeysuckle family, and is a large, handsome shrub.
It bears some resemblance to the Snowball. It blooms.
in May and June, flowers white in large flat compound
cymes. It will grow in any soil, but prefers rich loam.

The Staff-tree, American Bludder Nut—Staphylea
trifolia, is one of my little favorites. It grows in
thickets, usually on moist hill sides, eight or ten feet
high, slender, with greenish striped branches, trifoliate
leaves, pendent racemes, of greenish-white flowers,
pods membraneous, inflated three lobed, about an inch
long and three-fourths of an inch in diameter. It
should be set in a shady nook, and allowed to grow in
a clump.

The Red-osier—Cornus stolonifera, is found in
boggy places, but will grow in any moist soil. The
branches and long, slender annual shoots are bright
red-purple, very handsome. It multiplies freely by
subterranean suckers, and forms broad clumps six to
ten feet high. It bears white flowers in June, and
white to lead-colored fruit in the fall.

The Cornus alternifolia—Alternate Leaved cornel,
is a little taller shrub, found on hill sides in copses,
with slender, greenish branches, broad cymes of hand-
some white flowers, and pretty foliage, the whole pre-
senting a graceful appearance.

The Amorpha fruticosa—False Indigo, grows in
moist places on the banks of streams, is common
around here, and should be introduced in our grounds.
It belongs to the Leguminose family, has pinnate
leaves, and clustered, terminal spikes of violet purple
flowers. As found in this vicinity, it is usually six or
eight feet bigh, but it is sometimes much taller.

(32 )

The Euonymus atropurpureus—Waahoo, Burning
Bush, is common in our woods and thickets, will grow
in sunshine or shade, but prefers partially shaded
places. When fully developed it is from ten to fifteen
feet high. It is a pretty shrub, with green, four-sided
branches, and bears panicles of little purple flowers.
In autumn, when covered with its deeply lobed, crim-
son fruit, drooping on long peduncles, it is very orna-
mental. It requires little room, and will do well in
places that are so shaded nothing alse will grow. It
should be sheltered from the north wind.

The Euonymus Europeus is cultivated and highly
esteemed a little further south, but is not quite hardy
here. Our Huonymus is almost as handsome and is
hardy, though it flourishes best in protected places.

The Euonymus Japanica is a common greenhouse
shrub.

The common Sumac—fhus glabra, is so common
we do not realize that it is pretty, yet it is, and should
be in every one’s grounds. It always grows and looks
fresh, never becomes large, and lives to a great age.

The Aromatic Sumac—Rhus aromaticus, grows from
four to six feet in height, is ascending, inclined to
spread around loosely, has pretty aromatic foliage, and
spikes of little yellow flowers appearing before the
leaves in early spring. These flowers, like the flowers
of the soft maple, and many other plants, are formed
during the fall, and have only to expand when the
warm weather comes in the spring. It loves dry, grav-
elly places, and will flourish where nothing else will.
These two species of Rhus belong to a poisonous
family, but are irnocent members of it.

(33 )

Indigenous Vines.

Vines are my favorites. No grounds are complete
without them. Nature never plants a park without
interspersing it with vines. There is a peculiar grace
and beauty—a charm about vines, that pertains to
nothing else. They are the poetry of the forest, the
emblem of affection, the companion of love. In her
distribution of them nature has not forgotten us. Let
us not forget them.

The Ampleopsis quinquifolia—Virginia Creeper, is a
woody vine of vigorous growth, climbing to the tops
of our highest trees. It will cover the side of a brick
or stone house, clinging to the walls by its tendrils,
which do not penetrate them but adhere tg the surface
by little discs, on atmospheric principles, just as a tree
frog holds to a tree. They become so firmly fastened
they will break before they loosen their hold. It has
five leaflets, and may thus be distinguished from the
Poison Ivy, which has but three. It is well suited for
covering large arbors.

The common wild grape vine, though worthless
for fruit, makes a good covering for arbors. It is bet-
ter for this purpose than the tame grape, because it is
more hardy and grows more rapidly. This and the
Ampleopsis belong to the same family.

The Tecoma radicans—Trumpet Creeper, Trumpet
Flower, is a beautiful woody vine, very hardy, a rapid
grower, with pinnate leaves, leaflets five to eleven,
flowers two to three inches long, orange and scarlet,
very showy. This vine may be trained into any shape
that is desired. It will grow almost anywhere. It
merits more attention than it hasreceived. Hundreds
of them may be obtained in the river bottom.

(34)

The Celastrus scandens—Wax Work, Climbing Bit-
tersweet, False Bittersweet, is a hardy woody vine,
common in our woods, and should be cultivated more
in the city. The leaves are medium sized, ovate ob-
long, finely serrate pointed. “The opening orange-
colored pods displaying the scarlet covering of the
seeds are very ornamental in autumn,” and remain so
till the middle of winter.

The Menispermum Canadense—Moonseed, Yellow
Ferrilla, is a handsome little twiner with smooth bark
and large pretty leaves, loves rich soil and shady places.
It is one of the modest little things that no one can
observe without admiring. It is common in thickets
in rich bottom land. The stem is smooth and slender.
It bears panicles of delicate little yellowish white flow-
ers in summher, and little round clusters of purple fruit
in autumn, but its chief beauty is its foliage.

. The Clematis Virginiana—common Virgin’s Bower,
is not uncommon in thickets around Peoria. This vine
is a little woody, but chiefly herbaceous; therefore dy-
ing back in winter, but each year throwing out a vig-
orous growth. It is a profuse bloomer, flowers white,
and the fruit plumous with conspicuous feathery tails
that are curious and ornamental.

The Dioscorea villosa—Wild Yam, is the most el-
egant of our indigenous vines. It is the rare beauty
of our woods. No one can see it without admiring it.
It is a delicate herbaceous vine. It loves the thickets,
is modest and retiring. If it came from Japan it would
be esteemed and cultivated. It grows around us and
we scarcely know it. “Verily, a prophet is not with-
out honor save in his own country.” It is the only
representative we have of the Dioscorea or Yam family.
It is an endogen with net-veined leaves, which is an
exception to the rule. The flowers are not conspicu-

(35 )

ous, greenish yellow, the sterile in drooping panicles,
the fertile in drooping simple racemes, the fruit three
angled or winged, pods nearly an inch long, stems slen=
der from large knotty and matted rootstocks.

The Adlumia cirrhosa—Climbing Fumitory, Moun-
tain. Fringe, is not indigenous to this vicinity, but is
found in the eastern part of the state, Indiana
and Ohio. It is a handsome climbing biennial vine
with delicate foliage, thrice pinnate leaves, cut lobed
little leaflets, and ample panicles of prooping pale,
flesh-colored flowers. It climbs over high bushes, and
in cultivation makes elegant festoons and bowers in
shady places. It may be obtained at Mr. Frederick’s
greenhouse.

There are many foreign shrubs and vines which
are hardy and highly ornamental. These may be no-
ticed at some future time, but they do not come within
the scope of this paper.

General Remarks

If our streets were lined with shade trees, and our
yards properly set with shrubbery and vines, they
would absorb much of the carbonic acid gas that gen-
erates in excess in all cities and places where great
numbers of men or animals congregate. They would
perceptibly modify the intensity of the heat and dry-
ness of the atmosphere in summer, and add much to
the healthfulness, comfort and beauty of the city.

It is well known, that in summer much of our
sickness, especially among children, is caused chiefly
by intense heat. Reduce the temperature, and you
will lessen the percentage of mortality from cholera
infantum and allied diseases of children. Our broad,
naked, sandy streets; our unnecessarily broad, brick

( 36 }

sidewalks, the walls and roofs of our houses, reflect the
heat from the burning rays of the sun until the whole
atmosphere at times becomes like a heated oven. No
wonder many persons become suddenly sick and
die. No wonder multitudes of little children, the light
and hope of the family, succumb, and our cemeteries
are dotted all over with little graves.

Except in the business part of the city, one-half
of all our wide streets should be converted into grass
plats and flower beds and set in trees. Every property
owner should be requird to care for and protect these
grass plats and trees the same as and even more than
his sidewalks.

Most of our streets are eighty feet wide. Make a
drive-way in the center thirty-five feet wide, which for
this purpose is now and always will be enough, pave
or gravel them, make the sidewalks eight feet wide,
which will give ample room, and leave the intervening
space on either side for grass plats, flower beds and
trees, and we will have streets that are convenient and
present a tasteful and elegant appearance. Or what
in some of the streets would be better, make the grass
plats in the center of the streets and have a drive-
way on each side of them.

It is strange people have not before this learned
that such broad, bare drive-ways are unnecessary in
the resident part of any city. Give at least one-half
of all the streets to green grass, flowers and trees,
and we add immeasurably to the comfort, healthful-
ness and beauty of the city and have ample room for
driving every where.

When this is done, and the trees have had a few
years to grow, the increased heat our improvements
have made will be materially modified, and our death
rate lessened in proportion.

(37)

Iam happy to say that this good work is begun,
and I hope it will continue until it is extended through-
out the city. Then with our location and surround-
ings, which for variety and beauty are unequalled,
surely not surpassed, and with the general cultivation
of good taste, to which these will lead, we will have
one of the most cheerful and pleasant cities in the
world.

a
oe ED
“eS