ty Yj

ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

New YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
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AT

CoRNELL UNIVERSITY

EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS

BEEKEEPING LIBRARY

DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORODYNE.

THE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE.

ADVICE TO INVALIDS.—If you wish to obtain quiet refreshing sleep,
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The Right.Hon. EARL RUSSELL has erariogsly favoured J.T. DAVENPORT with the
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* Lord Chancellor Selborne and Lord Justice James stated that the defendant had made a
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Chemists throughout the land confirm this decision that Dr. J. C. BROWNE was the
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Sold in Bottles at rs. 1}d., 2s. gd., and 4s. 6d., by all Chemists.

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A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

Cornell University

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http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003022740

A

MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

BY
JOHN HUNTER,

LATE HONORARY SECRETARY OF THE BRITISH BEE-KEEPERS’ ASSOCIATION.

**Some have taught
That Bees have portions of ethereal thought,
Endued with particles of heavenly fires,
For God the whole created mass inspires.” —ViRGIL.

Ghird Ghition,
THOROUGHLY REVISED AND MUCH ENLARGED.

Pondor :
DAVID BOGUE,
3, Sr. Martin’s PLace, TRAFALGAR SQUARE.

1879.

Bungay

CLAY AND TAYLOR, PRINTERS.

@ 37768

PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

-__—_—<—

In my position as Honorary Secretary of the British Bee-
keepers’ Association, I was frequently asked to recommend a
moderately priced book, which would instruct the inquirer how
properly to manage his Bees; to my great regret I was unable
to give a satisfactory reply, being acquainted with no work
embracing the requisites of cheapness and completeness up to
our then standard of knowledge, to bring it within the means
of the many. The best work in the English language was
unquestionably ‘ Langstroth on the Honey Bee’; but this, pub-
lished in America, costs here ten shillings and sixpence. All
others that I knew did not explain the various systems and
apparatus sufficiently, or were too costly for general use. It
was universally acknowledged that the Apiarian Exhibition
of 1874 had given an immense impetus to Bee-culture, and I
had great hopes that one of our clever and learned Bee-masters
would have announced during the following Winter a new Work
on the subject, which would fulfil the desired conditions ; but
the 1st day of February, 1875, arrived, and I had not heard
the wished-for news; so, reluctant to let the Spring appear
without the needed help, I resolved, faute de mieux, to attempt
the work myself; and, having sought and found a publisher,
began and completed the First Edition of this little Manual
in my leisure evening hours of the same month of February.
The Second Edition followed the first so rapidly that very
little enlargement or correction was requisite, but between the
publication of the Second Edition to the present time_a lapse
of three years has‘ occurred, during which time Apiculture has
made such rapid strides that the necessity has arisen to
thoroughly revise the whole work, and, in addition, bring

iv PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION.

prominently before Bee-culturists the modern introduction
and use of sectional supers and comb foundation, which jointly
will, if I mistake not, revolutionize the art of honey raising in
Great Britain, as it has already done in America. Until the
British Bee-keeper is awake to the necessity of sending his
honey to market in the best saleable form, he cannot hope to
compete with our enterprising friends across the Atlantic, who
are at this present time invading the honey markets of Europe
with the same bold energy they have shown with other crops.

In the preparation of this Volume my aim has been to give
the best possible information on the subject it was in my power
to obtain, and, without attempting to rely solely on my own
personal knowledge, I have gleaned materials for the work from
every available source. I have been particularly indebted in
this way to ‘Langstroth on the Honey Bee,’ the various ‘ Bee
Journals’ of America and Europe, the articles of Mr. Cheshire
in ‘The Country,’ ‘The Journal of Horticulture,’ ‘King’s Bee-
keepers’ Text Book,’ and ‘Neighbour’s Apiary.’ I have, I believe,
in most cases acknowledged the author from whom I have
borrowed. If, in any instance, this is omitted, it is uninten-
tionally ; therefore I hope to be pardoned. My aim has been
to make known the various new inventions and appliances in
Apiculture, and to encourage the culture of the Bee, by showing
what wealth is lost-to the nation at large by its neglect, and to
give, in a popular and handy form, practical instructions to the
novice which may start him fairly on the road to profitable
Bee-keeping in a merciful and rational manner. Is it too
presumptuous to hope, also, that the adept may herein find
some useful hints and facts with which he was not acquainted ?
Earnestly trusting that my work may not be in vain,

Iam, &c, |
JOHN HUNTER.
5, Eaton Rise,
Ealing, Middlesex.
May, 1879,

CONTENTS.

PREFACE £0 6 2

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE
ComMBs..

BEE-KEEPING

NATURAL SWARMING

ARTIFICIAL SWARMING..

HIVES .. x ie ‘

GUIDE COMBS, AND COMB FOUNDATION

SUPERS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT

THE HONEY EXTRACTOR OR SLINGER ..
QUEEN CAGES ..

FEEDERS AND FEEDING

DRONE AND BEE TRAPS

QUIETING BEES

FOREIGN BEES, AND THE METHOD OF LIGURIANISING AN

APIARY

QUEEN-BREEDING, AND NUCLEUS HIVES
DRIVING th oo oie

TRANSFERRING COMBS AND BEES TO FRAME HIVES

DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES 28
VENTILATION OF HIVES
HONEY AND ITS SOURCES

PAGE

106

121
126
132
145
149

157
164
172
177
181
189

193

viii CONTENTS.

STINGS

REMOVING BEES

PREPARATION OF WAX és ii Par is
ROBBING

DRAINING HONEY FROM THE COMBS, AND HOW 10 MAKE
USE OF IT.. :

RECIPES

PAGE

198
202
204

204

206
208

A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE.

‘“ What atom forms of insect life appear!
And who can follow Nature's pencil here?""—Mrs. BARBAULD.

FROM the very earliest historic times, the Hive Bee has
been cultivated by man for the sake of the delicious
honey and useful wax that it produces, as well as
studied for the manifold lessons it furnishes in industry
and physiology.

The busy merchant, when wanting a symbol for his
house, could find no better sign than the “ Bee-hive.”
How common the axiom, “A very Hive of industry.”
The poet and the moralist fails not to quote our little
friend as an example to the young; and the beautiful
hymn of Dr. Watts, ‘The Little Busy Bee, can never
be forgotten as a memory of our early days, and in ages
to come will be taught to our children’s children with
the same loving wish of a good result as was hoped for us.

To the naturalist and man of science, the Bee affords
a never-ending store of Nature’s wonders; although
philosophers, from Aristomachus, four centuries before
the Christian era, Cicero, Pliny, Philiscus, Virgil, Theo-
phrastes, Plutarch, and Columella, to those of modern
times, Maraldi, Réaumur, Sir Christopher Wren, the
illustrious blind Huber, and Lord, Brougham, all wrote

B

2 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

upon and studied the Bee, the wonders it unfolds are not
yet exhausted.

The patience and sagacity of the naturalist have had
an ample field for exercise in the study of the structure,
physiology, and domestic economy of Bees; their pre-
servation and increase have been objects of assiduous
care to the agriculturist; and their reputed perfection
of policy and government have long been the theme of
admiration, and supplied copious materials for argument
and allusion to the poet and the moralist of every age.
The accurate investigation of life within a Bee-hive has,
from the old form of the latter’s construction, been beset
with so many difficulties that very often wrong deduc-
tions have been drawn from supposed facts discovered,
and succeeding authors without confirmation have un-
wittingly promulgated errors, until much of the written
history had become little better than fable, the correc-
tion of which is left to our own time and daily improving
means of observation.

In Great Britain and on the Continent of Europe there
is cultivated, so far as I know, but one species of Hive
Bee, although of this there are several varieties. Our
common English, or Black Bee, has been scientifically
named Agis Mellifica; and the Italian, or Ligurian Bee,
Apis Ligustica; but all entomologists agree that they
are one and the same species.

Dr. Gerstacker even goes so far as to consider the
Egyptian Bee, Apis Fasciata, and another African Bee,
Apis Adansonii, as varieties also. The best authorities
are in a difficulty as to which Bee should rank as the
species—whether to say Afis Mellifica var-Ligustica or
vice versa. The former, I think, is the more generally
adopted; but our distinguished hymenopterist, Mr.
Frederick Smith, late of the British Museum, seemed to

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 3

consider the most highly coloured as the typical form ;
and it is possibly more correct to give the precedence to
Apis Ligustica, but it cannot be decided satisfactorily until
we know in what country the Hive Bee really originated.

Physiologically I can detect no difference between
Ligurians and Black Bees. Individuals vary in size as
well as in colour; but, on dissecting a number of each
variety, the difference is nil, and no microscopist could
separate a series of any given organs of both, if mixed
indiscriminately. Some observers have asserted that the
tongue of the Ligurian Bee is considerably longer than
our British native Bee, by which means it is enabled to
reach the nectar in the red clover, which its ally cannot
do; but I have carefully measured with the micrometer a
great many of both varieties, and I do not find more than
the one hundredth of an inch difference in favour of the
‘Ligurian, so small a difference being probably attribut-
able to mere accident of breeding.

The leading feature in the natural history of Bees, and
one which distinguishes them from almost all other
insects, is their singular distribution into three different
kinds, constituting to all appearance so many different
modifications of sex.

A hive of Bees in June consists of a Queen, Workers,
and Drones.

Worker. Queen. Drone.
Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3.

The first (in abnormal circumstances), and at certain

4 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

seasons the last, may be absent ; the second never. The
Queen is the only perfect female.

‘“¢ First of the throng and foremost of the whole,
One stands confest the Sovereign and the soul.” VIRGIL.

If the colony has not swarmed, the mother of every other
Bee in the hive is the Queen, and she is the only means
by which the population can be kept up or increased. As
on her existence and well-doing depends the vitality of
the colony, we will give her majesty precedence, and con-
sider her natural history first.

In considering the development of the Queen, it will be
most convenient to include that of Workers and Drones,
stating the points in which they differ; but in a great
measure the facts are applicable to all.

The egg of a Bee is of a pearly white; it is slightly
curved, and in length several times greater than in
breadth ; it is deposited on the bottom of the cell on its
end, and stands somewhat obliquely; there is no differ-
ence either in size or colour in Drone and Worker eggs,
and any cluster of Worker eggs may be made to produce
Queens at the will of the Bee-master. To the uninitiated,
this statement looks fabulous; but I will presently
endeavour to show so clearly how it is possible, that I
think the most incredulous must be convinced. I will
even go further, and state my belief that eggs may be
taken which, uninterfered with, would produce Drones
(males), and that it is in the power of the skilful scientific
Apiarian so to act, that at his will they shall produce
either Queens, Drones, or Workers! When we observe
a Queen in the act of ovipositing, we see her put her head
into a cell, remain a second or two, apparently inspecting
the future cradle, to see that all is in order, then, with-
drawing her head, she curves her body down into the cell,

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 5

turns half round, and, retiring, leaves an egg behind her.
When she lays a considerable number, she does it equally
on exactly opposite sides of the comb, thus concentrating
and economizing heat for the development of the brood.
Three or four days afterwards, the egg is hatched, and a
small white larva or caterpillar makes its appearance ; it
lies coiled up and floats in a whitish transparent fluid,
which is deposited in sufficient quantity by the Workers
for its nourishment. The Nurse Bees now incessantly
attend upon them, and they thrive and grow so rapidly
that they double their size in about twelve hours, and in
from four to five days they form a ring, and occupy nearly
the whole length and breadth of the cell.

The Bees now seal over the cell with a cover made of
wax and Bee-bread, whose colour matches that of the
surrounding old combs. This cover is convex, that of
the Drone cells more so than that of the Workers, and
minute holes in it admit air to the larva. Like most
other insects, the larva having completed its growth spins
round itself a whitish silky cocoon, in which it under-
goes the change toa pupa or chrysalis, and eventually in
due time appears at maturity as an zmago, or perfect
insect.

The cocoons are made of an extremely thin transparent
or semi-transparent film, resembling gold-beater’s skin,
but without a wrinkle. This film ts never removed by
the bees, all other larve bred in the cell making new films,
which remain until the capacity of the cell is sensibly
reduced. These films take and retain the hexagon form
of the cells most accurately. A remarkable circumstance
is the perfect stretching of the film all round the wax cell ;
there is never found the least wrinkle or laxity, each film
being intensely stretched in all parts; there is no interval
whatever ; the whole of each cell is lined by one entire

6 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

piece of film, without any breach, suture, or join. The
film lining the cell of the Queen Bee is considerably
thicker than the Workers’, and this often is coated with
wax on the inside.

There are no such things as “ Queen eggs,” that is, eggs
destined from the first to produce Queens and no others ;
and although the cells in which Queens are reared are
of very different construction to those of Workers and
Drones, I am of opinion that after their construction
no egg is ever laid in them; Queens are not raised by
the Workers, unless there is a probability that they will
be required either in consequence of loss, complete or
apprehended, or infertility of the old Queen; and when
the raising of Queens is decided on, the Workers select
certain eggs already laid, or even an already hatched larva
which may be as much as three days old, round which,
after destroying the contiguous cells, they build a large
cell of totally different construction, within which the
young larva is fed with a special food known to Apiarians
as Royal Jelly. This appears to have the property of
effecting a complete metamorphosis in the development
of the larva.

The food so supplied is of a stimulating character, with
an acid reaction. It is furnished to the royal larve in
greater quantities than can be consumed; the Bees appear
incessantly to be attending on the royal larva, so that by
this treatment the development of all its organs is much
accelerated, and on the sixteenth day from the deposition
of the egg the perfect Queen appears. When this change
is about to take place, the Bees gnaw away part of the
wax covering of the cell, until at last it becomes almost
pellucid from its extreme thinness. The marvel is in-
explicable how a mere change and greater abundance of
food, and a more roomy lodging, should so transform the

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE, v1

internal and external organs of any living creature. The
case is without a parallel in all the animal creation. It
is not a mere superficial change which has been effected,
but one which penetrates far below form and structure, to
the very fountain of life itself. It is transformation alike
of function, of structure, and of instinct. When a hive
becomes Queenless, instinct teaches the Bees that the loss
must be replaced, or the colony perishes. " In the natural
order of events the hive will contain eggs and young
larve, some of whom the Bees select for special treatment,
as above described, and rear to Queens. That they will do
this is almost certain, but it isnot so sure that the Queen
will become a prolific mother. Between April and July
the young Queen will have every chance of meeting a
Drone on her wedding trip, but at other times the pro-
bability is more or less doubtful, and unless the desired
consummation be attained within thirty days of her birth,
she becomes a Drone breeder only—the result being. the
speedy extinction of her race. On the emergence of the
young Queen from her cell she is creamy white in colour,
her wings are limp and hairs damp, but she is in full
activity ; should she cross an open honey cell, she thrusts
in her tongue and feeds greedily, and her next thought
seems to be to destroy all others of her sister Queens who
may yet be unborn. I have seen her tearing open their
cells before her own wings were dry, being assisted in the
murderous work by the Workers.

From two to seven days after the Queen is born, she
issues from her hive, takes wing, and after a good look
at her home and its surroundings, for after recognition,
speeds with rapid pinions on her nuptial excursion far
away out of sight. The question naturally arises, Why
should she do this, when her own hive teems with
Drones? Probably it is due to the law of nature, that

8 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

forbids the mingling of kindred blood without due
penalty. Did she mate at home, the usual result of
breeding in and in would ensue, and in a few generations
the breed would perish; but by flying far away she
introduces fresh blood, and her progeny is the more
vigorous. Breeders of Ligurian Queens find difficulty
arise in keeping up the pure breed from the frequent
mesalliances of their Queens. It is said Drones will fly
four miles away from home. If Drones were not bred
in large numbers, how poor would be the chance of
a successful termination to her majesty’s excursion.
Should the Queen be unsuccessful, she will go out again
and again, sometimes, alas! failing to find her way back,
or perhaps get picked up by a bird; in‘either case, if the
stock has no eggs or sufficiently young larve, and the
state of affairs be not quickly discovered and remedied
by the Bee-master, the fate of the colony is settled ; it
dwindles and dies. If, on the contrary, the Queen
returns ae ae she in two days usually commences:

: . her maternal duties, and
never more leaves home
until she accompanies a
swarm and founds a new
family. If a Queen Bee
be dissected, in her ab-
dominal cavity will be
found, in juxtaposition,
a pair of organs called
the “Ovaries”; these
are composed of a mul-
titude of tubes styled
the “Ovigerous Tubes,”
Panera” all full of eggs in every
Queen Bee. Stage of growth, from

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 9

the full-sized egg just ready to lay, to those that
are yet very minute. All these tubes lead to a
channel called the “Oviduct,” each ovary having its own
duct, but these soon unite into one common channel; just
below this junction is a little globular sac called “the Sper-
matheca,” about one thirty-third of an inch in diameter,
covered with a beautiful white network of trachee, or air
tubes, and communicating by a small open duct with the
main oviduct, before the mouth of which every egg must
pass on its passage tothecell. Like the females of most
insects, the Queen Bee has sexual intercourse but once
in her life, and in the act of union with the Drone the
spermatheca is filled with the seminal fluid. The phe-
nomenon that sometimes occurred in a Bee-hive of the
Queen laying eggs that produced males only, had for
ages puzzled philosophers without any satisfactory
solution, and it was reserved for Dzierzon to promulgate
a new and startling theory of reproduction, which, in
the words of its distinguished author, is said to have
“explained all the phenomena of the Bee-hive as
perfectly as the Copernican hypothesis the phenomena
of the heavens.” Dzierzon first expressed his views
upon the reproduction of Bees in the year 1845. The
principal points of this theory may be shortly expressed
thus :—1st. That the Queen (female Bee), to become
good for anything (2. e. to breed Workers), must be fer-
tilized by a Drone (the male), and that the copulation
takes place only in the air; that Drone eggs do not
require fecundation, but that the co-operation of the
Drone is absolutely necessary when Worker Bees are to
be produced ; that in copulation the ovaries are not
fecundated, but the seminal receptacle (or spermatheca),
which in the virgin Queen is filled with a limpid fluid,
is saturated with semen, after which it is more clearly

Io A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

distinguishable from its white colour; and that the supply
of semen received during copulation is sufficient for her
whole lifetime. From the inability to meet the Drone,
no Queen lame in her wings can ever be perfectly
fertile; that is, capable of producing both sexes. 2nd.
All eggs which come to maturity in the ovaries of a Queen
Bee are of one and the same kind, and when they are
laid without coming in contact with the male semen
become developed into male Bees. This theory of
Dzierzon's, styled Parthenogenesis, has since been amply
confirmed by numberless experiments, although what
power the Queen possesses (or how she exercises it), of
determining which eggs shall receive fecundation and
which not is still a mystery. Certain it is, that when eggs
are laid in Drone cells Drones are produced.

It has been suggested that the extrusion of the
seminal fluid from the spermatheca requires abdominal
pressure, which the construction of Worker cells affords,
and the larger size of the Drone cells does not ; this
theory has been combated by saying the Queen will
often lay eggs on the floor of cells whose walls are not
yet built; but I do not know that it has been proved
that these eggs were allowed by the Bees to hatch; and
it is well known where eggs are dropped or placed in
undesirable places they will eat them.

To demonstrate that unfertilized eggs will hatch and
produce Drones, and Drones only, is easy. Observation
has proved that unless a young Queen becomes impreg-
nated during the first thirty days of her life, she becomes
incapable of receiving impregnation; and though she
continues laying, all her eggs produce but Drones. A
Drone-breeding Queen is a common occurrence in an
apiary of any extent, and is of course a misfortune, as
no Workers being forthcoming to replace the dead, the

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 11

colony will become extinct. And, again, if for the sake
of experiment the Apiarian late in the autumn causes
the Bees of a hive to rear Queens, which can be easily
done by removing their old Queen, there being no Drones
about, impregnation becomes impossible, and the young
Queen becomes a Drone breeder. These facts are said
to be taken advantage of by breeders of Ligurian
Queens, who contrive to keep Queens in their apiaries
who breed nothing but Drones, and so they have abun-
dance ready to fertilize late-bred Queens, when they
would otherwise naturally be unable to meet with a
mate. It is, however, a debatable point whether Drones
from an unimpregnated Queen can fertilize another
Queen.

To dissect out the spermatheca of a Queen is an easy
task to any one who has a moderately delicate sense of
touch and a microscope. It is only necessary with a
couple of needles to separate the last two or three seg-
ments of the abdomen, and with the needles turn out
the contents on a slip of glass. With a magnifying
glass may now be found the little sac of a whitish-yellow
colour; and with the assistance of a microscope this
should be placed on a small drop of warm water pre-
viously put on a clean glass slip, crushed with a needle
and immediately covered with a thin glass cover, now
under a quarter of an inch objective if the Queen was
impregnated, the characteristic contorted movements of
the spermatozoa may be seen in countless thousands,
forming a strange and wonderful sight. The sperma-
theca of a virgin Queen contains only a transparent
fluid. I have verified the impregnation of a Queen Bee
months after her decease by simply soaking her abdomen
in water for a few hours, when the spermatozoa was
easily found. My illustrious namesake, John Hunter,

12 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

the great anatomist, in conjunction with Sir Everard
Home, performed a series of experiments in attempting
to impregnate the eggs of Bees and other insects after
they had been deposited by the female; he succeeded
with the Silkworm Moth, but failed with the Bee.

The facilities we have now for such experiments are
many times greater than he had; and I have thought
it possible that if eggs freshly laid in Drone cells be
removed to Worker cells, and then touched with a small
camel-hair pencil, previously dipped in dzduted seminal
fluid obtained from the spermatheca of a Queen, the sex
of the future young would be changed from male to
female; and if so, Queens or Workers could be reared
from them. Since I first broached this subject, I have
read that Dr. Donhoff, of Germany, in 1855, reared a
Worker larva from a Drone egg which he had artifici-
ally impregnated, and Langstroth tried the same expe-
riment and failed, but he appears to have left the eggs
in the Drone cells contrary to the plan of removal I
suggest.

Von Siebold, who made many most skilful microsco-
pical examinations of eggs, affirms that among fifty-two
eggs taken from Worker cells, examined by him with the
greatest care and conscientiousness, thirty-four furnished
a positive result; namely, the existence of seminal fila-
ments in which movements could even be detected in three
eggs; and among twenty-seven eggs from Drone cells,
examined with the same care and by the same method,
he did not find one seminal filament in any single egg,
either externally or internally.

The fertility of the Queen Bee is enormous; in this
respect some greatly exceed others; a young Queen
will usually lay more eggs in a given time than an old
one, which is only according to the natural order of

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 13

things. In the height of the summer season, with
combs in good order, a Queen will lay two thousand to
three thousand eggs per day, and she lives four or five
years.

Dzierzon says most Queens in spacious hives, and at
a favourable season, lay sixty thousand eggs in a month,
and a specially fertile Queen in four years, which she on
an average lives, lays over one million eggs. The rate
at which eggs are deposited is largely governed by the
strength of the population and the cell space at the
Queen's disposal. Under the most favourable circum-
stances, Bees and stores abundant, hive dry, and clean
empty Worker combs, in no month will breeding entirely
cease. But although a hive in mild weather appears toler-
ably full of Bees, on the appearance of frost the Bees
draw closer together, and when very cold, numbers even
get quite into the vacant cells, until but a small space
retains the necessary heat (from ninety to a hundred
degrees Fahrenheit) to hatch eggs or rear larve. Of
course it is useless for the Queen (were she able) to lay
outside the cluster, and consequently it soon happens,
from the want of warm empty cells, that breeding
diminishes or ceases. At all times a daily loss of Bees
by natural deaths occurs, and it is of vital importance
to replace the dead by young Bees, or when spring-time
arrives the hive will be found to contain only a popula-
tion of old Bees, which will succumb to the first hard
work.

But oze Queen is allowed to exist in each hive,
although exceptional cases have been recorded where
this almost invariable rule has for a short time been
broken. In four instances which have come under my
personal cognizance, the dual monarchy has only been
permitted to continue a few days, and in three cases out

14 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

of the four it was evident the old Queen was becoming
worn out and was deposed. The Queen is not nearly so
bulky as a Drone, but her body is longer and consider-
ably more tapering, more so even than that of a Worker.
Her abdomen is also generally lighter in colour than the
other Bees; and when she has fully entered upon her
duties as a matron, her movements are slow and majestic,
and she can rarely be induced to take wing. The sole
business of the Queen is to lay eggs. No part of the
work of the hive is done by her, and she is usually found
surrounded by many of her subjects standing in a circle,
with their heads towards her, ready to clean, feed, or other-
wise attend to her and take care of the deposited eggs.
Whenever her majesty changes her position, the Bees
make way for her, closing round and keeping the circle
up, allowing free space for her movements in the centre.
The sight of a Queen thus attended is one of the most
curious and interesting things in a hive. Old writers
have been very fond of descanting on the love and
veneration Bees have for their Queen, and the courage
with which they will defend her. Such is not the case.
I have hundreds of times picked up the Queen from the
midst of crowds of her subjects, and in no instance was
I ever attacked, nor could I discover any feeling of the
Bees in the matter. Not unfrequently the Workers will
attack their own Queen if she has been kept from the
hive many minutes, and in the case of an immigration
of strange Bees, they will permit the latter to seize and
worry the Queen without interference. The assiduous
attention paid to the Queen is evidently only Nature’s
care for the safety of the eggs. Until a Queen begins
to lay she meets with no attention whatever from the
Bees.

The Queen has a sting, but has never been known to

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 15

use it except in combat with a rival. It has many times
been related how in the case of a strange Queen’s
appearance in the hive, the rightful sovereign and the
intruder engage in single combat, being urged thereto by
the Workers. I fear this is but a pretty fable; my expe-
rience of a great many instances being that the stranger
is seized by the Workers, who gather round her and form
a closely packed ball as large as a walnut, where they
bite and worry her (rarely stinging) until she dies. I
have known her so kept ten days, during which time
she must of course have been fed. On the first gathering
of this ball, technically called “an encasement,” the Bees
seem greatly excited ; a continual hissing is kept up,
and I have often taken the ball into my hand, and pulling
off the Workers released the Queen. The former have
no inclination to sting when so treated. If two Queens
are captured and confined together under a tumbler,
they run about until they meet, locked in each other’s
embrace, they fight and tumble about like gladiators,
probably one getting soon stung, when she at once dies.
At other times they meet and separate again and again,
until they seem to get tired of fighting, and move indif-
ferent to each other’s presence.

The Workers form the bulk of the population, and are
the smallest Bees in the hive. Their development is
complete in twenty-one days from the laying of the egg,
although this period is sometimes extended or curtailed
a few hours.

According to Réaumur, there are five thousand three
hundred and seventy-six Workers in each pound weight,
and the celebrated John Hunter counted two thousand
one hundred and sixty in an imperial pint. A populous
hive will often contain forty thousand or fifty thousand
Workers, whose part in the economy of the colony is, as

16 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

their name implies, 40 work—by them all the labour is
done: honey gathered, wax made, combs built, young
tended ; in fact, everything that requires work is accom-
plished by the Workers. These Bees are barren, or
more properly speaking, not fully developed females,
which may be proved on dissection, the organs of their
sex being discoverable, although not in a fully developed
state. Workers have a sting, which they are ever ready
to use on an enemy, even though, as is usually the case,
their lives pay the penalty, for, being barbed, the sting
is retained in the wound and drags out with it part of
the Bee’s intestines.

They are furnished with an exceedingly curious tongue,
with which they obtain honey from the flowers and con-
vey it to their mouth, whence it passes to the honey bag,
to be afterwards ejected into the cells. The hind legs
of the Workers are furnished with a spoon-shaped
hollow, called the “Pollen Basket,” in which they con-
vey that material to the hive. The length of life of a
Worker Bee is determined by the amount of work it
does, and the introduction of Ligurian Queens at various
seasons enables us to determine this question with almost
certainty. After the introduction of a fertile Ligurian
Queen to a colony of Black Workers in May, if we ex-
amine the hive two months subsequently, we shall find
very few Black Bees remain, they having died and been
replaced with Ligurians; and as, probably, at the time
the strange Queen commenced her reign, some eggs or
young larve of her predecessor remained, we may con-
clude that six weeks is the limit of time a Worker Bee
will live in summer. Should the new Queen be intro-
duced in October, not until April following will the same
state of affairs be found; it is thus evident that the
quietude and rest of winter prolongs the Bee’s life fourfold.

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 17

‘* Another race the spring and fall supplies,
They droop successive and successive rise.”—EVANs,

For some time after Bees emerge from the pupa state,
they employ themselves within the hive as Nurses and
comb-builders; they may be readily distinguished by a
greyish bloom they appear towear. The period of their
seclusion, before they commence honey gathering, varies
from a few days to two or three weeks, according to the
season, they

“With fond attention guard each genial cell
And watch the embryo, bursting from the cell.”—Evans.

It has been stated that if the Apiarian introduces a
small quantity of “Royal Jelly” from a Queen cell, into
a Worker cell, containing a young larva, the Bees will
rear that selected larva into a Queen.

I have tried this experiment, which failed; but it is a
common practice in America, when wishing to compel
common bees to rear Ligurian Queens, for the Bee-
master to remove the growing Black Queen larva, and
replace it with a Worker larva from the Ligurian stock,
which will then be successfully transformed into a Queen.

A phenomenon that sometimes happens in a Queen-
less hive when a: Worker is found, which is sufficiently
‘fertile to oviposit, is surmised to occur from the Bees
having partly fed it, when a larva, on Royal Jelly, causing
a greater development of its sexual organs, but yet not
sufficient to constitute a Queen. These fertile Workers
only produce drones, they are sometimes a great
nuisance in a hive, and from the impossibility of distin-
guishing them from the other workers are difficult to
remove. Mr. Rorl suggests that the Bees should be
driven, removed away from their stand, and allowed

to fly home; the fertile Worker never having before
e

18 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

flown would not know her way home, and be probably
lost.

Although I have often been conscious that a stock
was suffering from the presence of a fertile Worker, only
once have I had positive identification of the individual.
A correspondent having captured a Worker in the act
of ovipositing, forwarded her to me alive—outwardly
I could see no difference from an ordinary Worker,
but on dissection found eggs in various stages of
development.

The Drones are the males, whose sole office is to fer-
tilize the young Queens; although doubtless they
assist in keeping up the temperature of the hive. They
are much stouter than either the Queen or the Work-
ers, but do not exceed the Queen in length. They
have no sting with which to defend themselves, no basket
on their legs for pollen, no excretory organs for wax, and
no suitable tongue for gathering honey from the
flowers. Their voice is a loud sonorous hum, very notice-
able when flying. Under ordinary circumstances, they
only exist in the summer, when young Queens may be
expected to emerge ; and a colony having sent forth its
complement of swarms, the Drones are immediately
slaughtered by the Workers; they accomplish this
butchery by biting, teasing, and starving their unfortun-
ate brothers, for they seem to know that if they use
their stings they themselves will die. Often a Drone
may be seen with two or more Workers gnawing at his
wings and legs ; then, thrown from the hive, he perishes
for want of power to rise again. While the massacre is
in full progress, the floor of the hive may be found
covered with wounded Drones in various stages of

starvation, kept there by the Bees until they die or can
be thrown out.

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 19

‘The sad-ey'd justice with his surly hum,
Delivering o’er to executors pale,
The lazy, yawning Drone.”—SHAKESPEARE,

When suffering this ill treatment Drones will take
refuge in any neighbouring hives, and where one is
Queenless they will be welcomed and allowed to remain
unmolested. The number of Drones in a hive varies
considerably from one hundred or two hundred to some
thousands.

I do not know that the length of life of the Drone
has been satisfactorily ascertained—in fact, we may
conclude they usually meet with a violent death before
they are three months old, but I have in a Queenless
stock kept Drones alive from Autumn until the follow-
ing Spring. Drones, the progeny of a fertile Worker,
are commonly reared in Worker cells; in this case they
are diminutive in size—scarcely larger than Workers.
The act of copulation with the Queen is instantly fatal
to the Drone, and in separating, the Queen drags out his
organs, which remain attached to her for some time after
her return home.

The possession of a hive of Bees affords a fund of
material by which many instructive and amusing experi-
ments may be carried out, and by which facts in natural
history may be brought to light, perhaps small in them-
selves, but great in the aggregate.

Sir John Lubbock has initiated such experiments in
endeavouring to arrive at a knowledge of how far Bees
are endowed with power of communicating intelligence
one to another—his conclusions are not very favourable
to the Bees; I give the Bees more credit for that power
than he does, but have made no special observations to
demonstrate the point. In a paper communicated to

the Linnean Society, Sir John Lubbock states, he
fogs

20 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

arrives at the conclusion, that Bees do not communicate
intelligence of discovered food one to the other, and that
they do not readily discover honey. Probably Sir John’s
experiments were conducted in summer, when Bees are
perfectly indifferent to exposed stores. I think the same
experiments carried on in Autumn, after all natural
supplies had ceased, would have shown the experiment-
alist the desperate eagerness of the Bees for plunder ;
that they have means of communicating intelligence of
a discovery I have. little doubt. In my Apiary I have
seen a bottle of syrup, placed on the top of a hive con-
taining Ligurian Bees, surrounded and emptied in a few
hours, by an only stock of Black Bees standing in the
midst of ten hives of Ligurians, scarcely one of the
latter ever being seen in the crowd; how else than the
power of communication can we account for the Black
Bees from the solitary hive taking possession, unless
they had been led thither by the first discoverers, their
compatriots?

That Bees can see of course does not admit of doubt.
When a Bee leaves her hive for the first time, she flies
backwards and forwards several times with her head
turned towards it—evidently taking its bearings for
recognition; and then, however far she flies, returns
straight home; now if before her return the appearance
of the hive be altered, she becomes evidently confused,
but eventually enters; if the hive be moved but a few
inches, she gives the same indication of doubt, and will,
if possible, alight on the old spot several times before
she discovers her home ; the acuteness of her sight does
not, as we should think would be the case, direct her at
once to the hive she has been accustomed to, but I
should rather say it is instinct that guides her to the
old spot. Sir John Lubbock, who has experimented

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. 21

very patiently on the senses of Bees, took considerable
trouble to ascertain if Bees can distinguish colour, and
he comes to an affirmative conclusion.

Naturalists have many times observed that insects, ants
especially, communicate intelligence one to the other by
crossing their antenne; and Huber states that in Bees
these organs have the same use. He wished to ascertain
whether, when the Bees had lost a Queen (intelligence of
which traverses a whole hive in about an hour), they dis-
covered the sad event by their smell, their touch, or any
unknown means. He first divided a hive by a grate which
kept the two portions about a quarter of an inch apart,
so that the Bees could not come at each other. Though
scent would pass in that part in which there was no Queen;
the Bees were soon in great agitation, and as they did not
discover her where she was confined, in a short time
they began Queen cells, which quieted them. He next
separated them by a partition through which they could
pass their antennz but not their heads; in this case the
Bees all remained tranquil, neither intermitting the care
of the brood, nor abandoning their other employments,
nor did they begin any royal cell. The way they assured
themselves that their Queen was in the vicinity, and to
communicate with her was, to pass their antenne
through the openings of the grate. An infinite number of
these organs might be seen at once, as it were, searching
in all directions, and the Queen was observed answering
these anxious inquiries of her subjects in the most
marked manner, for she was always fastened by her feet
to the grate, crossing her antenne with those of the
inquirers.

Notwithstanding the conclusion of Huber, it is not
uncommon for bees to build Queen cells, even when a
Queen is with them confined in a wire gauze cage, where

22 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

they could have free communication with her by means
of their antenne.

That the antennz of insects are organs of intelligence
is generally admitted, but in what manner intelligence
is communicated has never been determined, probably
through a sense of which we know nothing, and never
shall, any more than light can be comprehended by those
born blind. The olfactory sense is highly developed in
Bees; by it they discover food, and know one another.
But the sense of hearing is, probably, not very acute.
The piping of an imprisoned Queen appears to be heard
by the reigning monarch, as she seems to answer it; but
Sir John Lubbock, in relating his experiments, tells us
that with the utmost efforts he could make with tuning-
forks, whistles, violin, or shouting close to the head of the
Bee, when all around was still, he never could obtain the
slightest indication that the sounds were heard.

Messrs. Kirby and Spence, in their admirable work,
thus describes a Bee’s operations on a flower when
gathering nectar:—

“Observe a Bee that has alighted upon an open flower.
The hum produced by the motion of her wing ceases,
and her employment begins. In an instant she unfolds
her tongue, which was before rolled up under her head;
- with what rapidity does she dart this organ between the
petals and the stamens! At one time she extends it to
its full length, then she contracts it; she moves it about
in all directions, so that it may be applied both to the
concave and convex surface of a petal, and wipe them
both, and thus, by a virtuous theft, robs it of all its
nectar. All the while this is going on, she keeps herself
n a constant vibratory motion. The object of the
industrious insect is not like the more selfish butterfly,
to appropriate this treasure to herself. It goes into the

COMBS. 23
honey bag as into a laboratory, where it is transformed
into pure honey; and when she returns to the hive she
regurgitates it in this form into one of the cells appro-
priated to that purpose, in order that after tribute is
paid from it to the Queen, it may constitute a supply of
food for the rest of the community.”

Virgil asserted, “a Bee is a ray of divinity;” and when
studying with awe the wonders of the Bee-hive, so beauti-
ful in their simplicity, so perfect in their ends, can we
fail to acknowledge the presence of that All-guiding
Hand, who, by these little insects and all their wondrous

works, teaches man a lesson of industry, forethought, and
order.

COMBS.
‘* Galleries of Art, and Schools of Industry.”

COMBS, as everyone knows, are built by the Bees of wax,
which is a natural secretion of the builders and appears
in fine scales between their abdominal rings ; it is elim-
inated from honey, or other saccharine food, possibly
assisted by a simultaneous consumption of Bee bread.
It was formerly believed that Bees secreted wax from
pollen, which we now know to be wrong, from the much
greater facilities for observation we enjoy.

After a hard day’s work in honey gathering the Bees
do not rest, but employ the night in comb-building ; this
work being then chiefly carried on, and on days when
the weather forbids out-door employment ; thus no time
is lost, even if they be confined several days. If the
combs of a hive are examined, the cells will be found to
be hexagonal—of several sizes—those for Drones and

24. A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

Workers never vary, the first are about seventeen to the
linear inch, the latter twenty-seven. As well as being
used for breeding, these cells are brought into requisition
for honey storing indiscriminately if occasion arises ;
there are also honey cells proper, generally of elongated
Drone construction, sometimes very deep, in supers even
two or three inches—these honey cells in the main hive
are usually found at the top and sides of combs, and on
the outer combs more than on the central ones which
form the brood nest. Queen cells, which are only pre-
sent occasionally, that is, when Queens are necessary
to be reared, if formed of the Bees’ own accord, will be
mostly found on the margin of the combs ; if the Queen-
rearing is forced, they are more often in the centre.
These cells are, when fully formed, of an elongated egg
shape, one inch long by half an inch in diameter; and,
contrary to the other cells, which have a slight upward
tendency, these always open at the bottom, that is, mouth
downwards. The number of Queens that the stock has
reared may commonly be known by the bases of the old
Queen cells left; they appear much after the shape of
the acorn cup.. Cells, where the young Queen has been
destroyed by the reigning monarch, are usually quite
cleared away by the Workers. Queen cells are never
used twice.

The process of comb-building is thus described by
Huber (I may here say that in his time it was thought
there were two kinds of Workers, whom he styles Wax
Makers and Nurses; the fact is, there is but one kind;
but the newly-born Workers, for some time after birth,
confine their work to nursing and comb-building, and do
not at first issue from the hive to gather honey) :—

“The Wax Makers, having taken a due portion of
honey or sugar, from either of which wax can be elabor-

COMBS. 25

ated, suspend themselves to each other, the claws of
the fore-legs of the lowermost being attached to those of
the hind pair of the uppermost, and form themselves into
a cluster, the exterior layer of which looks like a kind of
curtain. This cluster consists of a series of festoons or
garlands which cross each other in all directions, and in
which most of the Bees turn their back upon the observer ;
the curtain has no other motion than what it receives
from the interior layers, the fluctuations of which are
communicated to it. All this time the Nurse Bees
preserve their wonted activity and pursue their usual
employments. The Wax Makers remain immovable for
about twenty-four hours, during which period the forma-
tion of wax takes place ; and thin laminz of this material
may be generally perceived under their abdomen. One
of these Bees is now seen to detach itself from one of
the central garlands of the cluster, to make a way
amongst its companions to the middle of the vault or
top of the hive, and by turning itself round to forma
kind of void, in which it can move itself freely. It then
suspends itself to the centre of the space which it has
cleared, the diameter of which is about an inch; it next
seizes one of the laminz of wax with a pincer formed by
the posterior metatarsus and tibia, and drawing it from
beneath the abdominal segment, one of the anterior legs
takes it with its claws and carries it to the mouth. This
leg holds the lamina with its claws vertically, the tongue
rolled up serving for a support, and by elevating or
depressing it at will, causes the whole of its circumference
to be exposed to the action of the mandibles, so that
the margin is soon gnawed into pieces, which drop as
they are detached into the double cavity, bordered
with hairs, of the mandibles. These fragments, pressed
by others newly separated, fall on one side of the

26, A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

mouth and issue from it in the form of a very narrow
riband.

“They are then presented to the tongue, which im-
pregnates them with a frothy liquor like a bouilli.
During this operation the tongue assumes all sorts of
forms: sometimes it is flattened like a spatula, then
like a trowel, which applies itself to the riband of wax ;
at other times it resembles a pencil terminating in a
point. After having moistened the whole of the riband,
the tongue pushes it so as to make it re-enter the
mandibles, but in an opposite direction, where it is
worked up anew. The liquor mixed with the wax com-
municates to it a whiteness and opacity which it had
not before; and the object of this mixture of bouilli,
which did not escape the observation of Réaumur, is,
doubtless, to give it that ductility and tenacity which it
possesses in its perfect state.

“The Foundress Bee, the name which this first beginner
of a comb deserves, next applies these prepared parcels
of wax against the vault of the hive, disposing them with
the point of her mandibles in the direction which she
wishes them to take ; and she continues these manceuvres
until she has employed the whole lamina that she had
separated from her body, when she takes a second
proceeding in the same manner. She gives herself no
care to compress the molecules of wax which she has
heaped together ; she is satisfied if they adhere to each
other. At length she leaves her work and is lost in
the crowd of her companions. Another succeeds and
resumes the employment; then a third; all follow the
same plan of placing their little masses; and if any, by
chance, gives them a contrary direction, another coming
removes them to their proper place. The result of all
these operations is a mass or little wall of wax, with

COMBS. 27

uneven surfaces, five or six lines long, two lines high,
and half a line thick, which descends perpendicularly
below the vault of the hive. In this first work is no
angle nor any trace of the figure of the cells. It is a
simple partition in a right line without any inflection.

“The Wax Makers having thus laid a foundation of a
comb, are succeeded by the Nurse Bees, which are alone
competent to model and perfect the work.

“The former are the labourers, who convey the stone
and mortar; the latter, the masons, who work them up
into the form which the intended structure requires.
One of the Nurse Bees now places itself horizontally on
the vault of the hive, its head corresponding to the centre
of the mass or wall which the Wax Makers have left,
and which is to form the partition of the comb into two
opposite assemblages of cells; and, with its mandibles
rapidly moving its head, it moulds in that side of the
wall a cavity which is to form the base of one of the

cells to the diameter of which it is equal. When it has
worked some minutes it departs, and another takes its

place, deepening the cavity, heightening its lateral
margins by heaping up the wax to right and left by
means of its teeth and fore feet, and giving them a more
upright form; more than twenty Bees successively
employ themselves in this work. When arrived at a
certain point, other Bees begin on the yet untouched and
opposite side of the mass, and, commencing the bottom
of two cells, are in turn relieved by others. While still
engaged in this labour, the Wax Makers return, and add
to the mass, augmenting its extent in every way, the
Nurse Bees again continuing their operations. After
having worked the bottom of the cells of the first row
into their proper forms, they polish them, and give them
their finish, while others begin the outline of a new series.

28 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

. “The cells themselves, or prisms, which result from
the reunion and meeting of the sides, are next con-
structed. These are engrafted on the borders of the
cavities hollowed in the mass; the Bees begin them by
making the contour of the bottoms, which at first is
unequal, of equal height; thus all the margins of the cells
offer an uniformly level surface from their first origin, and
until they have acquired their proper length. The sides
are heightened in an order analogous to that which the
insects follow in finishing the bottoms of the cells; and
the length of these tubes is so perfectly proportioned
that there is no observable inequality between them.
It is to be remarked that though the general form of the
cells is hexagonal, that of those first begun is pentagonal,
the side next the top of the hive, and by which the comb
is attached, being much broader than the rest, whence
the comb is more strongly united to the hive, than if
these cells were of the ordinary shape. It, of course,
follows that the base of these cells, instead of being
formed like those of the hexagonal cells, of three rhom-
boids, consist of one rhomboid and two trapeziums.

“The form of a new comb is lenticular, its thickness
always diminishing towards the edges, This gradation
is constantly observable, whilst it keeps enlarging in
circumference; but as soon as the Bees get sufficient
space to lengthen it, it begins to lose this form and to
assume parallel surfaces; it has then received the shape
which it will always preserve.

“The Bees appear to give the proper forms to the
bottoms of the cells, by means of their antenna, which
extraordinary organs they seem to employ as directors,
by which their other instruments are instructed to ex-
ecute a very complete work. They do not remove a
single particle of wax until the antenne have explored

COMBS. 29

the surface that is to be sculptured. By the use of these
organs, which are so flexible and so readily applied to
all parts, however delicate, that they can perform the
functions of compasses in measuring very minute objects,
they can work in the dark, and raise those wonderful
combs, the first production of insects.

“Every part of the work appears a natural consequence
of that which precedes it, so that chance has no share in
the admirable results witnessed. The Bees cannot depart
from their prescribed route, except in consequence of
particular circumstances, which alter the basis of their
labour. The original mass of wax is never augmented,
but by an uniform quantity; and what is most aston-
ishing, this augmentation is made by the Wax Makers,
who are the depositories of the primary matter, and
possess not the art of sculpturing the cells.

“The Bees never begin two masses for combs at the
same time; but scarcely are some rows of cells con-
structed in the first, when two other masses, one on each
side of it, are established at equal distances from it, and
parallel to it, and then again two more exterior to these.
The combs are always enlarged and lengthened in a pro-
gression, proportioned to the priority of their origin, the
middle comb being constantly advanced beyond the two
adjoining ones by some rows of cells, and they beyond
those that are exterior to them. Was it permitted to
these insects to lay the foundation of all their combs at
the same time, they could not be placed conveniently or
parallel to the other. So with respect to the cells, the
first cavity determines the place of all that succeed it.

“A large number of Bees work at the same time on
the same comb; but they are not moved to it by a
simultaneous, but by a successive impulse. A single
Bee begins every partial operation, and many others in

30 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

succession add their efforts to hers, each appearing to
act individually in a direction impressed either by the
Workers who have preceded it, or by the condition in
which it finds the work. The whole population of Wax
Makers is in a state of the most complete inaction, till
one Bee goes forth to lay the foundations of the first
comb. Immediately others second her intentions, adding
to the height and length of the mass; and when they
cease to act, a Bee, if the term may be used, of another
profession, one of the Nurse Bees, goes to form the draft
of the first cell, in which she is succeeded by others.”

In the form of construction of the cells an abstruse
mathematical problem is involved, which long taxed the
powers of our ablest mathematicians to solve, and yet
this problem the Bee, inspired by a Teacher who never
errs, solves every time a comb is built. The combs of a
Bee-hive are formed in parallel vertical strata, each of
which, when of worker construction, is about an inch in
thickness (drone comb is somewhat thicker), the distance
between the surfaces of adjoining strata being about half
an inch, a space which allows for the passage of the bees
over both surfaces. The combs generally extend the
whole breadth of the hive, from front to rear, and nearly
the whole length from top to bottom; they consist of
thin partitions which enclose hexagonal cells opening on
both surfaces of the comb, and closed by a partition
which is common to those on both sides, and occupies
the middle distance between the two surfaces. This
partition is not, however, a plane, but is composed
of a collection’ of rhombs; three and sometimes four of
these rhombs incline to one another at a certain angle
from the bottom of each cell, which thus has the shape
of a flattened pyramid, of which the base is toward the
mouth of the cell; the axis of each cell coincides not with

COMBS. 31

the axis of the cell on the opposite surface, but with one
of its angles, so that each of the three obtuse angles,
at the base of the terminal pyramid, corresponds to the
central parts of three of the cells on the opposite side.
We may easily satisfy ourselves that such is the case,
by piercing the centres of each of the three planes which
close the bottom of a cell with a pin, when on turning
the comb the three pins will be found to have passed
into three different cells on the opposite side. No one
has yet been able to explain how bees could have
adopted and adhered to so regular a plan of architecture,
and what principles can actuate so great a multitude to
co-operate by the most effectual and systematic mode in
its completion. Several theories have been promulgated,
but none have borne the test of serious examination.
The foundations of the combs are laid by the bees raising
a solid block or plate of wax of a semi-circular form. In
this they scoop out a small vertical channel of the size of
an ordinary cell. The sides of this channel are then
strengthened by additions of wax. On the opposite side
two other channels are formed, one on each side of the
plane opposite to the former channel. The extremities
of these channels, which first present a curved outline,
are then fashioned into straight walls forming an angle
at each vertex. The bottom of each cell being thus
sketched out, the design is completed by raising walls
round the sides. Different bees generally work on the
opposite sides at the same time, and appear to have some
perception of the thickness of the partitions and of the
situation of the opposite walls, in which they are perhaps
guided by strong prominences occasioned by the depres-
sions which correspond to them on the other side; and
they scrape off the wax in those places where its thick-
ness is greatest, that is, where the bees on the other side

32 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

had accumulated materials. Soon after the bees have
completed the foundations, and constructed a few of the
cells of the central comb, they begin two others, one on
each side at the proper distance, and in this manner
continue to form others in succession, in proportion as
the former are advanced. Their object at first seems to
be to extend the surface of the work, so as to admit of
the greatest possible number of workers being employed
at one and the same time. In this way, then, the work
proceeds from all points at once; new cells being begun
before the former are completed, so that the comb, while
it is in progress of construction, has a semi-lenticular
shape, broader at the top and tapering below and to-
wards the sides. It extends downwards, however, more
rapidly than in any other direction, and its surfaces do
not become parallel to each other till the last stage of
the building process. When this is completed, the whole
is further strengthened by an addition of propolis round
’ the margin of all the cells, and the junctions of every
plane, both of the sides and bottoms of the cells, are
soldered together by a' lining of the same substance.
The cells when new are white, but become gradually
darker, and when very ancient are almost black; and
when in this condition the capacity of the cells is so
reduced, by the accumulation of cast-off cocoons, as
sensibly to diminish the size of the bees bred therein,
but the combs are quite good for breeding purposes for
five or six years. Z
‘*So work the Honey Bees,

Creatures that by a rule in Nature, teach
The art of order to a peopled kingdom.”—SHAKESPEARE.

BEE-KEEPING, 33

BEE-KEEPING.

“* As each for the good of the whole is bent,
And stores up his treasures for all,

We hope for an evening, with hearts content,

For the winter of life without lament.

That summer is gone with its hours misspent,

And the harvest is past recall!””—Dr, AIKIN.
A TRAVELLER who has much acquaintance with Conti-
nental rural life, cannot fail to be impressed, when
journeying in England, with the small number of Bee-
hives he sees scattered about, amongst either the cottages
of the labouring classes, or the farms and courts of the
gentry, compared with what he sees abroad; and when,
perchance, his eye alights on a hive or two, he will nine
times out of ten find only the ancient straw skep in
use, and that probably badly made. The cottager, al-
though now used to the innovation of steam ploughs
and thrashing machines, has been quite content to jog
on with his Bees in the same manner that his Saxon
forefathers did a thousand years ago. But what a life,
and what a death for the poor Bees !—the hives are pro-
bably reeking with moisture, dirty and decayed, and
when the industrious labourers have, in spite of all such
disadvantages and neglect, filled them with Nature’s lus-
cious gifts, the fate in store for them is suffocation, with
the horrible fumes of brimstone; and this procedure is
not practised by the poor and ignorant only, but in many
cases adopted by the educated and opulent if, by chance,
they own a few Bees.
‘* Ah! see where, robbed and murdered in that pit,
Lies the still-heaving hive, at evening snatched,
Beneath the cloud of guilt-concealing night,

And fixed o’er sulphur while not dreaming ill,
D

34 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

The happy people in their waxen cells

Sat tending public cares.

Sudden, the dark, oppressive steam ascends,

And used to milder scents, the tender race

By thousands tumble from their honied dome

Into a gulf of blue sulphurous flame.” THOMSON.

Tell an ignorant labourer that his honey can be got
from the hive, his Bees preserved to work for him again,
and that no more honey will be required to feed twenty
thousand than ten thousand little mouths during the
winter, and you would simply elicit an incredulous smile,
he certainly would not be induced to try, however lucidly
the process was explained; but show him how to do it,
let him see the result, and he will another year, perhaps,
follow the example set, greatly to his own benefit as well
as to that of his Bees. To all Bee-keepers who are
thinking men or women, I commend the following
chapters, which, carefully studied, will give every necessary
instruction by which they may become accomplished
Apiarians, and a centre of knowledge for the enlighten-
ment of others.

What portion of our fertile land does not afford sus—
tenance for Bees? Mr. Alfred Neighbour in his work,
The Apiary, devotes a chapter to “Bee-keeping in
London.” Could we ever imagine a more unpromising
field for honey gathering—London!—foggy, smoky
London! But think a moment; London has parks,
squares, gardens; and each of these has trees, flowers,
and shrubs. What matters if the flowers be dirty, their
nectaries secrete the coveted sweet,and the natural filter of
the Bees will clarify it better than any artificial one could
do. A lady living in Kensington, told me she kept Bees
there; they throve well, and had furnished her with a
super of fourteen pounds weight!—they are also kept in
the busy Strand next to Charing Cross Railway Station.

BEE-KEEPING, 35

It has becn asserted that Bees will fly five or six miles
for honey, if a supply nearer home be not obtainable;
they may, but such an extreme labour would not allow
the stock to thrive. Too much time and muscular
strength would be consumed in making the journey.
The great danger to Bees in town is their liability to be
tempted into shops, such as grocers, confectioners, &c.,
where they get bewildered, fly to the window, and, in
the vain attempt to penetrate the glass, they die. Brew-
eries are also fatal places, the sweet wort attracting
numbers who perish by drowning.

Associations and societies for the encouragement of
agriculture, horticulture, and various other sister sciences,
have for many years abounded in England, but it was
reserved for 1874, to see the establishment of the first
one for the encouragement and promotion of Bee-
keeping, when the British Bee-keepers’ Association,
presided over by Sir John Lubbock, sprung into exist-
ence, through the exertions of nearly all our own lead-
ing Apiarians, whose observations and writings have
contributed so largely to apiarian science. The Associ-
ation, which did me the honour to elect me Honorary
Secretary, held an exhibition at the Crystal Palace, in
September, 1874, of “ Hives, Bees, and their Produce,” of
far greater magnitude than was ever gathered together
in Great Britain before; these Exhibitions have been
continued at the same place, the Alexandra Palace,
and at South Kensington, besides giving birth to many
Provincial Associations and Exhibitions, the result being
that Bee-Keeping in England has received an impetus,
which, it is hoped, will eventually be productive of great
good.

Such competitive exhibitions surpass everything else

as a means of improving all sciences, and the present
D2

36 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

advanced state of agriculture and horticulture, is mainly
attributable to them. Apiarian Exhibitions form no
exception, an immense interest is excited in Bee-keeping,
and multitudes of persons have vowed to keep Bees,
pleased and astonished at sight of the wonderful supers
of honey, and the interesting practical demonstrations
of Bee management that are shown, where the Bees,
thanks to the skill, coolness, and courage of the manipu-
lators, seem to set aside all will of their own, obedient
only to that of their masters. The aim of the Asso-
ciation is, to make these Exhibitions Annual, and to
further, by a variety of other means, the advancement of
Bee-keeping, both as a Natural Science, and as a means
of bettering the condition of cottagers, and the agri-
cultural labouring classes, as well as the advocacy of
humanity to the industrious labourer, the Honey Bee.
The expenses naturally attendant on these efforts to do
good, although not heavy (no officers being paid), can
only be met by the addition of members to the ranks of
the Association, and the hearty co-operation of all Bee-
keepers. Let no one, therefore, stand aloof, but con-
tribute his mite both of money and goodwill to aid the
progression of Bee-keeping.

Many persons reading my account of how the Bees
may be used will naturally feel surprised, and, perhaps,
doubt that their own courage or skill could ever arrive at
a point that would enable them to remove all the Bees
from a hive, shovel them up or drive them about wherever
they desire them to go, and will, perhaps, think they
might as well be told to enter a lions’ den and put the
noble beasts through their performances after seeing
the keeper do so. To those unaccustomed to Bees the
doubt is reasonable; but there is no secret or charlatan-
ism in the matter. A certain amount of courage must

BEE-KEEPING. 37

be present with coolness and quietness; the rest is easy
if my instructions are followed. During many practical
expositions of Apiarian manipulations more than one
lady has been courageously present in the manipulating
room, by their own choice, without receiving any injury,
although thousands of Bees, driven from their hives,
were crawling and flying all round, while the spectators
behind a glass or gauze screen gazed with astonishment
both at the Bees and the ladies. The facility of hand-
ling Bees is not of modern origin.. A century ago, a
Bee-keeper, named Daniel Wildman, who was domiciled
in Holborn, astonished London by his performances with
these insects. He had an exhibition at Islington, the
records of which, although we must take them “with a
grain of salt,” show that he had a considerable acquaint-
ance with the fears and dispositions of Bees. It is
said he could cause a swarm to settle almost instan-
taneously where he pleased, even on his head, remove
them to his hand, a window, table, &c., at pleasure.
This seemed wonderful; but the solution was simply
possession of the Queen—where she went, there went
the Bees! To keep Bees in a merciful and rational
manner it is by no means necessary to undertake all the
operations I describe, or even adopt frame hives. If
the rudest form of hive, the straw skep, be maintained,
it is yet not at all necessary to destroy the Bees to get
their honey. Read and master the one chapter on
* Driving,” and the Bee-keeper can rifle their stores, yet
preserve their lives and strengthen his stocks for next
year, so that they will be able to do double work in
reward for their master’s humanity.

‘Leave them happy in their copious store,
A part they’ll give; and why desire ye more ?
And must ye kill? Mistaken thought—ah !—shame,
No more involve them in sulphurous flame.”

38 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

Cottagers can, if they desire it, gradually master all
manipulations in time. Gentlemen who are already
adepts will willingly give all the help in their power.
The cottagers of Scotland far exceed the English in
the ability they display in Bee-keeping. The country
gentleman desirous of helping his poorer neighbours,
cannot do a better thing than furnish pattern improved
hives supplemented, if need be, by a swarm of Bees, and
show how they are to be managed. The Bees may be
repaid out of their increase.

When an Apiarian can handle his Bees with impunity,
their study becomes a fascinating pursuit, their doings
are so truly wonderful—the temptation to inhale the
fresh air and watch the Bees becomes too strong to be
resisted, a man’s mind and knowledge expand from the
wonders he beholds. New friends are made, ideas are
interchanged, inventive faculties are set in motion to
fashion some aid for the Bees or their master, and many
are the delights that spring from the contemplation of
the busy throng. And then the children !—what delight
they exhibit to see the busy Workers set out or return
from their labours in the fields; what lessons in mercy
do they receive when they pick up the poor little Bees
who, returning to their hives, fall chilled to the ground.
Children are easily taught not to hurt the Bees, and they
then discover the Bees will not hurt them. My own
little ones, when two or three years old, would stand
before the hives peering into the entrance quite unmo-
lested, and at my bidding allow the Bees to crawl over
their hands—knowing they would receive no injury.
Fear for the children need never deter any one from
keeping Bees.

Amongst all naturalists there is a kind of Free-masonry
which makes welcome the visit of any person with

BEE-KEEPING. 39

similar tastes; and should the Bee-keeper, who is
desirous of learning more, find himself in the neighbour-
hood of a scientific Apiarian, let me counsel him to pay
the latter a visit; he will, I am sure, be truly welcome to
a sight of the Apiary and a friendly chat, which must be
barren indeed if both parties do not part wiser men.
Many years ago, as an entomologist, I collected insects of
another order. Whenever I found myself in a strange
locality my first inquiry was for others of a similar taste
on whom I made a point of calling—need I say I never
met with a rebuff, but,on the contrary, made many
pleasant friends.

One of the principal writers on the Bee was Francis
Huber, an eminent naturalist of the last and present
century. Ye was totally blind; yet even this great
deprivation did not hinder him from becoming the
greatest and most accurate observer of Bees that had
ever then lived. His observations were made with the
eyes and assistance of his servant, Francis Burnens, who,
although a peasant, was a man of great talent, possessing
indefatigable energy and enthusiasm; Huber was also
assisted by his wife. His observations and deductions
made, although many of them have since been proved
incorrect, gave to the world a wonderful store of facts
hitherto unsuspected, and laid the foundation for the
labours of many naturalists of later times. His “leaf
hive” was the first frame hive; it was very valuable for
observation purposes, and is yet often used, although
not so convenient as some newer inventions.

Wise little creatures are Bees!—for they seem to be
warned of the approach of bad weather by some parti-
cular instinct; it sometimes happens when multitudes are
abroad very busy, they will on a sudden cease from their
work; not a single one stirs out, and those that are away

"40 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

hurry home in such crowds that the entrance of the hive
is too small to admit them. On such an occasion, look
to the sky, and you will, probably, discover some of
those black clouds that denote impending rain. Whether
the Bees see the clouds gathering, as some imagine, or
whether they feel some other effects of the change on
their bodies, is not yet determined; but it is asserted
that no Bee is ever caught in a sudden shower, unless it
be at a very great distance from the hive, or injured by
accident. Searching for wild Honey Bees in England
would, I am afraid, be an unprofitable task. In many
country districts Bees are known to be located in certain
hollow trees or roofs of houses; but the proprietors,
although, perhaps, they would be glad to get rid of the
Bees, would not so readily allow their house to be
dismantled or their tree to be cut down. In America,
however, they are not so particular, and many men make
a living “ Bee-hunting ;” others who do not follow it as
a calling do not fail to take advantage of the lucky find
when it occurs.

The time that Bees will inhabit some stations is
wonderful. Thorley tells us that a swarm took posses-
sion of a spot under the leads of Ludovicus Vives, in
Oxford, where they continued one hundred and ten
years, from 1520 to 1630.

Bee-keeping is more or less carried on in all civilized
and many semi-civilized countries ; from the cold inhos-
pitable region of Siberia, to the sultry shores of Africa,
we may find Bee-hives often in vast numbers. Spain
teems with them; in the rural districts they are every-
where found, as also in Russia where, in the province of
Yekarterinoslaw, there are nearly four hives to every
human being.

In former times, Poland was celebrated for its Bee-

BEE-KEEPING. 4t

culture, and is still so now to some extent in the pro-
vince of Lublin, it having everywhere else fallen into
decay. The reason why Bee-keeping is so industriously
carried on in Russia is twofold. Firstly, because the
peasants use honey instead of sugar; and secondly,
because wax tapers to the value of 1,200,000 rubles
(nearly £ 182,500) are required for the churches. Buschen
states the quantity of honey annually produced in
European Russia to be 600,000 to 700,000 pud (9,643
to 11,250 tons), and a proportionate quantity of wax.

In the United States, apiculture is carried on largely,
both as a distinct trade and adjunct to other farming,
with a great amount of scientific attention. Many of
our most valuable apicultural improvements and inven-
tions have had their origin there, and in no other country
would the old straw skep and death-and-brimstone
system meet with greater contempt.

Within this last 25 years, California has become a great
country for Bee-culture. In 1876, Mr. Harbison reached
New York with his honey crop, from his six Apiaries in
San Diego. The shipment consisted of ten car-loads,
or 200,000 Ibs. of honey. In Les Angelos county, we
are told, there are 200 Apiaries with over 12,000 hives,
from which over 500,000 lbs. of honey are taken annually.
The income of Mr. J. S. Harbison, derived from honey
alone, is said to be more than 45000 per annum, clear
of all expenses. In the State of New York, Captain
Hetherington of Cherry Valley, sold in 1874 over 58,000
Ibs. of honey, from his own Apiaries, and Adam Grimm
of Jefferson as much more. Many more examples of
large products in the United States could be cited.

Germany, too, boasts of many Bee-keepers ; in com-
parison with that Empire, Great Britain is far behind.
Here, where one hive is kept, we might have a thousand ;

42 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

where one pound of honey is gathered, a ton is wasted.
Vast quantities of honey are annually imported from
France and the West Indies which should be supplied
by our own rural labouring population who, in addition,
might, as I have above stated they do in Russia, use it
in lieu of sugar. According to the best authorities, it is
impossible to overstock a neighbourhood with Bees—at
least it never has been done—and, therefore, we may
conclude there is no danyer here. In Germany, many
Apiaries contain in close proximity 200 to 300 hives.
Ehrenfels had 1000 in three separate establishments,
but sufficiently near together that he could visit them
all in half an hour’s ride. In Russia and Hungary,
Apiaries numbering from 2000 to 3000 hives are not
infrequent, and as many as 4000 are often congregated
together at one point on the heaths of Germany. It is
calculated that in Hanover there are 141 hives to each
square mile, and a German writer alleges, that the Bees
of Lunenberg pay all the taxes assessed on their pro-
prietors, and leave a surplus besides—this in a district
so barren that it has been called the Arabia Petrea of
Germany.

In former times, the Island of Corsica, comprising
3790 square miles, paid to Rome an annual tribute of
200,000 pounds of wax, which presupposes a production
of two to three million pounds of honey; and East
Friesland, a province of Holland, maintains at the
present day an average of 2000 hives per square mile.
These statistics could be indefinitely increased, and they
show that, comparatively, Great Britain is bare of Bees.
I question if we have one colony to a square mile.

Oettl says: “When a large flock of sheep is grazing
on a limited area, there may soon be a deficiency of
pasturage. But this cannot be the case with Bees, as a

BEE-KEEPING. 43

Yr

good honey district cannot be readily overstocked by
them. To-day, when the air is moist and warm, the
plants may yield a superabundance of nectar; while to-
morrow, being cold and wet, there may be a total want
of it. When there is sufficient heat and moisture, the
saccharine juices of plants will readily fill the nectaries,
and be as quickly replenished when carried off by the
Bees. Every cold night checks the flow of honey, and
every clear warm day reopens the fountain. “ The
flowers expanded to-day, must be visited while open, for if
left to wither, their stores are lost. Bees cannot collect
to-morrow what is left ungathered to-day.”

How long shall it continue to be said that we thus
allow God’s gifts to be wasted before our eyes? This
has become an age of utilization. See the multitude of
formerly “waste” products that are now made useful ;
and yet, throughout the length and breadth of this flowery
land:

‘Full many a flower is born to blush unseen,
And waste its fragrance on the desert air.”—GRAY.

I appeal, therefore, to the clergymen, the country
gentlemen, and all those who, by their rank and position,
are looked up to, and have influence with the labouring
classes, and would say to them: Encourage by eyery
means in your power the spread and growth of Bee-
keeping. Teach by the force of example what satisfac-
tory results may be obtained by improved hives, and a
more sensible and humane policy towards our interesting
and industrious little fellow-labourers ; let it be seen that
the produce of a dozen hives, with little labour, and
scarcely any outlay, will suffice to pay the rent or find
shoes for the little ones ; and in the course of a few years,
we shall find no cottage without its hive or hives, and

44 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

the old barbarous system of Bee slaughter will be quite
a thing of the past.

When aman thinks of starting Bee-keeping, he
generally has an eye to profit, and the question is com-
monly asked: “ How much honey shall I get per hive?”
Now this question is more easily asked than answered,
the result being dependent on so many circumstances
over some of which we have no control. Moreover,
many think they have only to obtain a hive of Bees, set
it down in the garden, and giving it no further attention,
profit must, as a matter of course, ensue. This is a
great mistake; the farmer sows his seed with the same
end in view, “ profit.” Nature makes the seeds to grow,
but without attention from the farmer but a poor crop
would be gathered in. We buy poultry, feed and attend
them, and profit by their eggs and increase, but we get
none of these advantages without a proper share of
attention and expenditure. Thus with Bee-keeping ;
thousands of Bee-keepers in England, belonging to the
agricultural labouring classes, keep Bees, give them the
minimum of attention, and make but small profit; and
the educated Bee-keeper, unless he follow a more rational
plan, must not expect a better result.

Mr. Pettigrew, in his ‘Handy Book on Bees,’ wherein
he advocates the use of straw skeps only, talks of the
contents of these hives commonly weighing from 100 to
150 pounds, and instances a swarm in its first season
reaching 160 pounds in weight; he also states that at a
village in Lanarkshire, the profits of Bee-keeping averaged
in six consecutive years, £2 11s. 8d. perhive. I can
only say I never saw such hives, and none have made
their appearance at the British Beekeepers’ Association’s
Shows, where they could not have failed to take many
prizes; and the Beekeeper who allows his expectations

BEE-KEEPING, 45

to rise to this height, will be grievously disappointed,
more especially if he repudiate the use of all the improve-
ments of modern times, the result of the collective
experience and wisdom of able and truth-telling observers.
Very strong stocks have been known to gather Io or 12
pounds per day during exceptionally good honey weather;
and a skilful Apiarian in a good honey locality and season,
by the expenditure of ceaseless care and attention, may,
perchance, with a strong stock of Bees, obtain a super of
80 or 100 pounds of pure virgin comb.

‘* Huge honeycombs of golden juice,
Not only sweet, but fit for use.’— VirciL. *

This is a feat to be proud of, but years may elapse before
such a result is attained, notwithstanding the devotion
of unlimited time, and the exercise of special skill in
fostering, which the many are not able to bestow.

An average price for a good swarm of English Bees, we
may set down at I5s.,a little more or less, according to
the abundance of Bees in the neighbourhood. If we
allow 2s. per annum for capital expended ona good frame
hive, not a fancy article, and 3s. for sugar in hard times,
we shall have an annual expenditure of 5s., and the stock,
after the first year, may be fairly expected to return one
swarm, value 15s., and say 20 pounds of honey, value 2os.,
a very large profit on the capital employed, setting aside
exceptional years when two or more swarms will come off,
or the exceptional harvest of 50 pounds or 100 pounds
that, possibly, may gladden the eyes of the exultant Bee-
master, also the contingency of the swarm in its first year,
giving a surplus in honey or virgin swarm.

Is not this profit enough to satisfy all but the most
grasping usurer? A labouring man residing in almost
any rural district may keep quite fifty hives of Bees,

46 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

without interfering with his ordinary occupation; it is
not necessary that his own garden should contain them
all; the country clergyman or squire would, in nearly all
cases, obtain or give permission for the standing of hives
in their woods, fields, or waste grounds, and feel pleased
at being able to assist in the industry of their poorer
neighbours. The thousands of railway servants—station-
masters, porters, and signal-men—have splendid oppor-
tunities of increasing their incomes by Bee-keeping; the
Bees would prosper on, and gratefully accept the shelter
of, the railway banks, which are generally clothed with
flowers én all the luxuriance of their untended wildness;
and amongst the passengers using the stations would
be found willing customers for the honey and swarms.
Those who can make, buy, or borrow a “ Honey Extractor,”
will derive a far larger profit, if using frame hives; and
such an instrument may be the joint stock property of a
whole village, travelling from one apiary toanother, But
there is another kind of profit besides that of money.
Who but those who have experienced it can tell of the
large fund of instruction, pleasure, and amusement
afforded by the busy Bees!

The industry and activity of Bees in their domestic
labours afford an instructive and amusing spectacle. All
are actively engaged; each attending, with all its power,
to the business to be done. Some feed the young larve,
others seal them over when full fed. A certain portion
attend upon the Queen; then there are the cell builders,
and the mighty moving army of honey and pollen
gatherers. No skulking, no idleness; each Bee knows
what it has to do and does it. Many employments are
there in the hive; some Bees ventilate, others perform all
the operations of scavengers, so that by night and by

»

BEE-KEEPING. 47

day work goes on unceasingly in this busy home of
industry.

‘Behold! yon bord’ring fence of sallow trees
Is fraught with flowers, the flowers are fraught with Bees ‘
The busy Bees, with a soft murmuring strain,
Invite to gentle sleep the labouring swain,”—V1RGIL.

No need to stray from home in search of recreation in
our idle hours, the Bees will teach us these should be
unknown. Employment and interesting instruction will
always be found in the careful watching for the welfare
of the stocks in fine weather, and when the elements are
unpropitious our ideas may be enlarged and our me-
chanical genius fostered by the manufacture, improve-
ment and invention of hives and appliances. In the
long evenings of winter all may be got ready for the
summer’s requirements.

Many of our ablest Apiarians, whose means permit,
are content to sink pecuniary profit, and devote all their
energies to the philosophical study of the mysteries of
our industrious little friends and their works. Some
Bee-keepers also aim only at increase of Bees, finding
the sale of these pay better than honey; and,as a rule, it
may be taken as correct, that if the breeding power be
unduly pushed, the storage of honey must be sacrificed.

I will now suppose the reader is contemplating start-
ing as a Bee-keeper. My advice is not to attempt too
much at first; begin in the spring with one or two
swarms; common Black Bees will do, though Ligurians
are better, if the additional cost be no object. Of the
former, a prime swarm should be obtainable for from
I5s. to 20s., the Ligurians about double that price.

The inexperienced in Bee-keeping will do well when
starting, to buy in May, or the first half of June, a

48 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

swarm in preference to an old stock, unless he purchase of
a person upon whom he can thoroughly depend. There.
is always a chance of an old stock harbouring disease,
especially foul-brood, a fatal disease which I will describe
in good time; which a novice would find impossible to
eradicate. A fair prime or first swarm will weigh net
three and a half pounds; a very good one, five pounds.
They have been known to reach eight pounds. If lighter
than three and a half pounds, they would probably be
casts or second swarms. These have the advantage,
that the Queen is certainly young, and will probably
become prolific, and are on this account not to be
despised if they come early in the season.

Bees are usually sold in a straw skep, which will come
in very handy, even if, as we should in this age of pro-
gression determine, to work with frame hives; if this be
not the case, and the straw skep is to be maintained, put
the swarm on its stand at once, and leave it to proceed
as Nature directs, not forgetting to protect it from the
elements, and feed if necessary in bad weather (see
“Feeding”). If the swarm is to be transferred to a
frame hive, see that the latter be ready, and find your
instructions in the chapter on “Swarming.”

If it be determined to commence with an old stock, a
very good time to purchase is either in February, March,
or April, thus gaining the advantage of the swarm when
it comes. In choosing an old stock, do not buy a weal
one at any price; stand before the hives on a fine mild
day and note those from which the Bees are busiest; buy
such a one or none.

If the stock be bought within a mile or so of home, it
should not be taken at once to its permanent resting-
place, or the Bees on their next flight will most likely go
back to their old quarters, and thus be lost to their pur-

BEE-KEEPING, 49

chaser; if possible, let it be removed at least two milcs
off, and remain there a week or ten days; after which, it
may be brought home in safety. Evening should be
chosen for the removal, or otherwise many may be
abroad; but whenever it becomes a necessity that Bees
should be removed during the day, administer a puff of
smoke into the entrance of the hive. After this, those
at home will be disinclined to go out, and in the course
of half an hour all the Workers will have returned; the
smoking should be repeated if it be found that the Bees
are recovering from the sedative before the necessary
time has expired. They should be moved or disturbed
as little as possible in bad weather, for if they be excited
and unable to take wing to relieve themselves within
the next day or two, dysentery will very likely be engen-
dered. The market value of a stock of Bees depends on
their abundance in the neighbourhood, the season of the
year, and the strength of the colony. Of course, in the
autumn, when the dangers of the winter are all to come,
they are not so valuable as in the spring, when they will,
probably, soon swarm. Having bought an old stock, we
have no option in the kind of hive to be used; whatever
they are in must be made the best of, at any rate for a
time. A novice could not satisfactorily transfer the
Bees and combs while they are full of brood and
honey, but if it be particularly wished to locate them
in a frame hive, the transfer will become much easier
16 to 21 days after the issue of a swarm; at this time
the combs are free, or nearly so, of brood. Suppos-
ing the old Queen laid on the day of her departure,
her last Worker egg will be hatched in 21 days, and
the young Queen has not yet or only just began to
lay, the combs will, therefore, be light and manageable,
The chapter on “Transferring ” will give full instructions
E

50 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

how this operation may be successfully performed. In
settling the locality in the garden where the hives shall
be placed, do not trouble about the aspect, it is imma-
terial, but seek if possible to place them where they
may be sheltered from high winds and drifting rain.
The shelter of a shrub or tree is very welcome, and they
will be more likely to pursue their labours peacefully
without annoyance to the frequenters of the garden;
they are apt to be irritable if blown about by high winds.
It is not material in which direction the hive is faced; I
have a partiality for East, as then the Bees get the morn-
ing sun, which is an advantage in winter. When the after-
noon sun shines full upon the hives the Bees are apt to
be tempted out late, and get overtaken by the evening
chill, which is death to them.

Hives should be sheltered from the full blaze of a
midsummer sun; but the whole of its grateful warmth
should not be dispensed with, some heat being necessary
to dry up moisture. Perpetual shade is bad; extremes
either way should be avoided. It is not advisable to
crowd the stocks together; spread them about the
garden singly, then the Bees will not be likely to fight,
or the young Queens to get lost on their nuptial excur-
sions. Stands for the hives need not be expensive; an
old stool, box, cask, drain pipe, or log of wood, answers
very well. Should these look unsightly, climbing plants
trained over will soon remedy that defect. About 18
to 24 inches from the ground will be found a con-
venient height for manipulations. The hives being
disposed of in their permanent quarters, a careful study
of the various chapters that follow will teach the tyro
what to do and when to do it. And, if attention be
carefully bestowed, before the swarm multiplies itself or
the winter arrives, the novice in Bee-keeping will find

BEE-KEEPING. 5h

himself fully able to cope with any difficulties that may
occur.

It has long been a debatable point whether Bees do
best congregated in houses or standing singly about the
garden; of course, properly protected, the balance of
opinion is for the latter course — mainly for two reasons.
Firstly, the Bees are not so liable to rob and fight; and
a most important point, the young Queens, when return-
ing from their matrimonial excursions, are not so likely
to mistake the hive from which they issued—if they do,
the penalty is death, for the Queen of the invaded hive
allows no intruders. If Bee houses or sheds are used,
they should be lofty enough for their owner to stand
upright in for convenience in manipulation; the hives
should be far enough apart, at least three feet, and should
be dissimilar in appearance. For hives made of thin
material, like the Stewarton, shelter becomes a necessity,
and indeed some Bee-masters obtain very successful
results from Bees kept wholly indoors, egress and ingress
being given to them by a covered way leading to the
open air. I think a sound rainproof open barn or other
building must prove a decided advantage, securing
warmth and comfort. For three or four hives very pretty
little Bee houses may be constructed, forming garden
ornaments.

52 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

NATURAL SWARMING.

‘*Ten thousand pinions, guided by Thy hand,
Wander, unwearied, through the blue abyss,
They own Thy power—accomplish Thy command,
All gay with life, all eloquent with bliss!” DERZHAZIN.

THE issue of a swarm of Bees in the bright and merry
months of spring, is one of the most beautiful and de-
lightful sights and sounds to be met with in the country
side ; everybody within view or hearing is attracted by
the tumultuous assemblage, and if in a district where old
customsare still rife, “tang-tang-tang” is heard on every
side as the cottagers turn out with key and shovel to
“ring the Bees.” It is a popular idea that unless this is
done the swarm will be likely to fly toa far distance, and
perhaps be lost. I need hardly say the “ ringing” has no
effect whatever on the Bees, but the pleasant reminis-
cences connected therewith make it always a welcome
sound to hear.

Swarms do not usually issue until May or June, rarely
in April. Early swarms are always desirable if the
weather continue fine and warm, but if it be succeeded
by cold or wet, then the early swarm becomes a misfor-
tune; in the first place, the Bees have neither combs nor
food, and being unable to go out foraging, must neces-
sarily perish, unless fed regularly. The Mother hive also,
lately so crowded, misses the comfortable warmth gener-
ated by its departed population, and the Nurses with
difficulty keep the temperature sufficiently high to mature
the brood, so that in this contingency it will be seen it is
more desirable for the swarm to issue later, when the
weather can with more certainty be depended on.

Swarming is an act of necessity, not choice, and is a

NATURAL SWARMING. 53

provision of Nature to relieve an over-populated colony,
It is in fact an emigration on a large scale.

Evidence in the minds of experienced Bee-keepers
tends to prove, that the Queen in swarming is not a
willing emigrant, but is forced to go out by the Workers,

First swarms usually come out in the middle of the
day, and it must be fine and warm; but after swarms are
very erratic; they may emerge early or late, in fair
weather or foul, generally, however, in the former.

The chief indication that swarming is about to take
place is the gathering of the Bees at the entrance of the
hive, where they cling to each other and hang under the
board in a cluster, often as large as a pottle measure.
This clustering is evidently the natural instinct of the
Bees, which leads them to gather together in the same
manner as when they are making comb within the hive,
and indeed they will sometimes start a new comb under
the floor-board. The hive being quite full, the Bees will
often thus “hang out” for two or three weeks, though
something is apparently yet wanting to give them the
final impulse to start. Clustering does not always take
place before the issue of a swarm, so that other signs
must also be watched for. If on one day the Drones are
busy, and the Bees all activity and bustle, while on the
following day few Bees are at work, and only a little
restlessness observable, then we may probably expect
a swarm at no very distant date; but there are no
infallible signs by which the Apiarian can predict an
immediate issue, more especially if it be a first.

The issue of after swarms may often be foretold by
a shrill piping sound, to be heard in the interior of the
hive, one or two days previously, the cause of which
I will presently explain.

It is rarely that a first swarm will come forth in bad

54 | ° A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

weather; fine still days are generally selected, seldom
earlier than nine or later than three o’clock, and most
frequently between twelve and two. As soon as the hive
becomes inconveniently crowded, and Drones make their
appearance, the Bees prepare for swarming by building
a number of royal cells, and this having been done, the
Bees’ instinct soon teaches them it is time to form a new
colony. The first swarm is invariably accompanied by
the old Queen, and she usually goes off as soon as one
or more of the royal cells be sealed over; but even
although the royal cells have arrived so far towards
maturity, swarming may yet be stopped by unfavourable
weather or other causes, in which case the embryo Queens
will be destroyed. Previous to swarming, her majesty
becomes very restless, and instead of proceeding with
her usual important business of egg-laying, roams rest-
lessly over the combs. Her agitation infects the whole
colony; they rush to the honey cells, fill their honey bags,
and fly in and out the hive as though impatient for the
important event. At length a violent commotion ensues ;
the Bees become almost frantic, whirling round in circles,
continually enlarging, until at last the whole hive is in a
state of the greatest ferment, and the Bees, rushing
impetuously to the entrance, pour forth in one steady

stream.

*¢ Upward they rise a dark continuous cloud,
Of congregated myriads numberless,
The rushing of whose wings is as the sound
Of a broad river headlong in its course.
Plunged from a mountain summit, or the roar
Of a wild ocean in the autumn storm,
Shattering its billows on a shore of rocks.’>—SouTHEY.

It is generally supposed that the Queen leads the
swarm, but this is not the case; she may come out
with the first rush, or at any other time; as also on

NATURAL SWARMING, 55
alighting she may be the first, or the cluster may form
without her being there. If, however, she does not join
soon, the Bees will scatter again and seek her. Often,
when full of eggs, she is so heavy, that a long flight is
impossible to her, and she falls to the ground, where the
Bees will probably find her. Should the Queen be lost,
the bereaved colony will exhibit the greatest agitation.
Bees will be running about the entrance and up the sides
of the hive searching everywhere for their beloved sove-
reign. This commotion is very noticeable the morning
following the loss, while other colonies are quiet; after
a day or two they become resigned. Once out, the Bees
scatter themselves in the air like countless stars in the
firmament; they dash hither and thither, whirling about
with a pleasant noisy roar that may be heard at some
distance; the whole atmosphere seems alive with Bees
passing and repassing. They must now be attentively
watched, when they will probably be found gradually con-
verging together and settling down in one mass on some
neighbouring bush or tree; although they will often,
apparently not feeling satisfied with the home neighbour-
hood, fly far away, when the owner stands a good chance
of losing them altogether. It is said that throwing up
sand or dirt, flashing a mirror, or firing a gun amongst
them, will often cause them to come down, but if these
means fail, the owner has no resource but to keep his
eyes and legs in the greatest activity, and follow the
swarm until it settles. Seldom a neighbour will refuse
a civil request to be allowed to enter his premises to
reclaim an errant swarm, and the law of England is, that
a right of property in Bees can be claimed so long as the
swarm has been kept in sight, and the owner has the
power to follow them on any man’s land, with the proviso
that compensation shall be made for any damage that he

56 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

or his Bees occasion. Should the swarm be lost and no
stranger hive them, they will often, after a few hours,
return to their old hive, apparently disgusted at the
neglect they have experienced. In this case, they may
be expected to emerge again on the first favourable
opportunity

In the case of a colony which will persist in repeat-
edly swarming, or if the Bee-keeper fears a swarm will
issue and be lost, this may be prevented by clipping the
Queen’s wings; she may probably come out after this,
but will be found not far away, as she, of course, would
fall to the ground, her journey afterwards being limited
to the distance she can crawl. This plan was known to
Virgil, who says :—

‘The task is easy ; but to clip the wings
Of their high-flying arbitrary Kings.”

The ancients styled the Queen—the King.

At the time of the old Queen’s departure, the royal
cells are generally arriving at maturity; in about a week
one of them hatches, and the natural impulse of the new
born Princess is to destroy all her unhatched sisters, in
which she is assisted by the Workers; but if the hive be
in that prosperous condition that another exodus is
desirable, the Workers prevent this sororicide by setting a
guard over the unhatched Queens; and when the reign-
ing Queen approaches them she is driven unceremoni-
ously back; she resents this interference by a quick
succession of shrill angry sounds, not unlike the rapid
utterance of peep, peep, peep, which is accepted by the
imprisoned young Queens as a kind of challenge, and
answered by them from the interior of their cells. This
is called piping, and when heard is a sure sign of an-
other swarm. The young Queens are all mature at the

NATURAL SWARMING. 57

latest 16 days from the issue of the first swarm; and
Langstroth says, if during this period these notes are not
heard, it is an infallible indication that the first hatched
Queen has no rivals, and that swarming is over for the
season in that stock.

The second swarm usually issues on the second or third
day after the piping is heard, though when the weather
is unfavourable it may sometimes delay coming out until
the fifth day. When using frame hives the issue of second
and later swarms may always be prevented by destroying
the Queen cells. Too frequent swarming is exceedingly
injurious, as it leaves the original colony very weak, and
the swarms are in the same condition; in fact, it divides
a thriving stock into a number of weak ones, which,
collectively, will not be so productive as one strong
colony; therefore, unless under exceptional circum-
stances, after swarms should be discouraged. From a
stock which swarms more than once no surplus honey
can be expected, the largest returns of honey being from
the hives which have not swarmed at all.

I will now suppose the swarm has issued, settled down,
and all become quiet. The next thing to do is to hive
it. Whatever hive is intended to become their perma-
nent domicile, a straw skep is the best and handiest
thing in which to bring home the Bees. Let the skep be
clean and free from loose and ragged straws. If the
Bees are intended to remain in it, see that the flight
aperture is neatly cut, and the feeding hole well bunged
up. Many persons run two sticks across the hive, at
right angles to one another, to hold up the combs, and
drench the inside of the hive with sugared water or beer,
at the same time rubbing it round well with a bunch of
sweet herbs. To the syrup I have no objection, although
it is unnecessary; but the sticks and herbs are far better

58 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

left out—the one becomes a nuisance in after manipula-
tion, as well as causing crooked combs, and the herbs
may not suit the organs of taste or smell of the Bees;
that which we think is nice they may consider nasty.
The floor board, which, of course, must be perfectly clean,
is then placed handy on the ground, with a stout stick
laid across a few inches from the alighting board; and
duly equipped with veil and gloves, we are ready for
operations. In all probability the swarm hangs on a
bough or bush; in this case, all we have to do is to hold
the hive fairly beneath and give the bough a vigorous
shake, when the cluster will fall into the hive, and before
the Bees can recover from their astonishment set it
down on the floor board across the stick, which will
tilt up the hive and prevent crushing; although, in
inverting the hive on to the floor board, the Bees will
fall on it, they will quickly run up again and cluster as
before; and, provided the Queen be with them, every
Bee outside will in a short time enter. If, on the con-
trary, the Queen be not shaken into the hive, it will
quickly be deserted, and very likely the cluster will
reform on the old spot, when the process must be re-
peated with, let us hope, a better result. It sometimes
happens that when the Bees are apparently hived satis-
factorily, they are not satisfied, but, issuing again, return
to their old habitation or seek another home, when the
same care in marking down and following must be pur-
sued. Bees are not always so complaisant as to select
a bush or bough to hangupon. The face of a brick wall
is an awkward spot, and I have known them swarm upon
that. The boll of a tree isa common place. In these
cases they must be swept into the hive with a brush or
goose’s wing in the best manner possible under the
circumstances; or the inverted hive may be supported

NATURAL SWARMING. 59

over them and the Bees driven upward with a little
smoke. When in an awkward place, the Apiarian’s
ingenuity must be exercised to devise the best manner
in which the desired object may be attained, bearing in
mind that Bees have a tendency to ascend, and may be
more easily driven or coaxed upwards than down-
wards. A swarm should be hived as quietly as possible
after they have settled down, for if not secured within
an hour or two they will probably leave again. After
being safely hived, and the stragglers gathered to the
main body, the stick may be taken away, and the new
colony placed at once on the stand it is to occupy. If
this be not done aé¢ once, it will be better to leave it
quietly until evening, shading the hive from the sun’s
heat by an umbrella or green boughs, as after the com-
motion of swarming has subsided, the industrious Work-
ers, losing no time, will proceed to gather in some stores,
and on their return, not finding the hive, will perish.
The Bees forming a swarm always emigrate with their
honey-bags full. They have provision enough to last
them three days; and if it be found at the expiration
of that time that the weather is unfavourable for work,
they must be fed, or if the famine continues they will die.
Driven Bees or forced swarms are not so full of honey,
and their wants must be attended to at an earlier period
in bad weather. Itshould be remembered, as if written
in letters of gold, that Bees waste nothing, and so no loss
can occur by feeding them. I cannot reiterate the fact
too often, that it is false economy to stint Bees in food;
they will not gather an ounce less of honey if they are
supplied with an unlimited amount of syrup; on the
contrary, the grateful nourishment will invigorate and
make them work still harder. Should the Apiarian be
desirous of stocking a frame hive with the swarm, let it

60 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

remain quietly in the skep till five or six o’clock in the
evening: then having the frame hive ready in the place
it is to stand—all frames duly furnished with comb
foundation or guide comb—remove the crown board or
quilt, and carefully bringing the swarm to it, with a smart
shake precipitate the whole of the Bees on to the top of
the exposed frames—the major part of the Bees will
quickly disappear downwards, and the remainder may be
persuaded with a feather to follow, until there is not too
many on top to allow the crown board or quilt to be
replaced, when the work is done.

Another method is to spread a sheet or large news-
paper on the ground near where the stock is to stand,
and on it place the selected hive with its frames (which
should have been previously furnished with guide combs)
in position ; prop up the front an inch or so with a stick
or stone, let the crown board remain on, then gently lift
the skep, bringing it up to the frame hive, and with a
quick, sharp jerk, shake the whole of the Bees on to the
sheet immediately in front of the hive’s entrance. The
Bees will be so alarmed and terror-stricken at all the
occurrences of this eventful day, that scarcely one will
fly or sting, but make all possible haste to run under and
up into the hive placed for them ; they may be assisted
in this by gently sweeping them towards the entrance
with a brush, stiff feather, or goose’s wing. Search the
skep well to make sure the Queen is not left behind, a
few Worker Bees will not matter. It will soon be
perceived, if the Bees are entering the hive quickly, if
so, the Queen is there and all will go well; but, if her
majesty be absent, the Bees will crowd all about the
outside of the hive, and although they may go in, they
will not remain there. Finding this to be the case, we
must seek an interview with her majesty, examine every

NATURAL SWARMING, 61

little knot of Bees round about, for the Queen will
seldom remain many minutes alone. Her faithful sub-
jects crowd about, anxious for her safety, until a minia-
ture swarm is formed, which, if not disturbed, will remain
for days, until all the individuals composing it are dead
of starvation and exposure. Should the Queen be found,
introduce her to the hive, and it will then progress
satisfactorily. After the Bees have all entered, gently
lift up the hive, place it on its floor board, cover all up
secure from cold and wet, and bearing in mind the
caution as to feeding in bad weather, we may leave our
young colony to fulfil its appointed task.

Should two or three swarms issue together or within a
few hours, and the owner be not anxious to increase his
stocks, these may be profitably amalgamated; three
swarms put together will gather more honey than if kept
separate. The best way to unite them is to hive them
in separate skeps, and proceed as I have described for
stocking a frame hive. It is advisable to well sprinkle
each swarm with syrup, scented with peppermint, before
uniting them; fighting will, by this precaution, not be
likely to occur. If the Apiarian has no preference for
either Queen, the Bees may be allowed to determine the
right of sovereignty themselves; but if it be desired
that a particular Queen should be the survivor, the
others must be sought for and removed; this may be
done by searching for the Queen when on the cloth, or
in the skep, each lot separately, and not allowing the
Workers to mingle until they be found. A Queen is
very easily missed, and a tyro will, perhaps, find this a
troublesome and difficult work.

The Bee-keeper is often sadly disappointed after all
his trouble in hiving the swarm, to find in a day or two
the Bees will not accept their quarters. Something is

62 A MANUAL OF .BEE-KEEPING.

wrong about the hive which we cannot always’ define,
and the swarm issues again; in this case jt is advisable
at the next hiving to use another hive, for if you put
them into the same as before, they probably will again
desert it. When working with frame hives the swarm may
almost always be induced to remain by giving them a
comb of unsealed brood from another hive; the Bees
cannot resist the temptation to attend to the helpless
young, and so remain. If the Queen should unfortunately
have become lost, this brood will supply the Bees with
the means of raising another.

If two swarms cluster together, they may advantage-.
ously be kept together, but if it be wished to separate
them, the following plan may be pursued: Having hived
the doubled swarm, drench them well with syrup from
the rose of a watering-can; then, having placed two
other hives on a large sheet, shake down the Bees
midway between them, and with a feather direct a stream
of Bees towards the mouth of each; probably a Queen
will go each way, but keep a sharp look out, and if you
can capture both Queens, the process becomes simple.
Give one to each hive, and with your feather arrange
the stream of Bees so that they shall be about equally
divided ; if one Queen only be captured, and the Bees
are found quietly entering one of the hives, the other
Queen is doubtless there; but if the Bees are disin-
clined to take possession of either domicile, then the
Queen is still, probably, on the cloth, and the search
must be continued.

Second and third swarms are led by Virgins, and if
they issue when they are not wanted, they may be
returned in the evening by shaking them out on a
sheet before the entrance of the hive from which they
issued, they will immediately run in; it is advisable to

NATURAL SWARMING, 63

remove the young Queen if possible before returning
the Bees.

The increase of colonies by natural swarming requires
the least amount of knowledge or skill, and will, with
those Bee-keepers who have not acquired some degree
of scientific Apiarian skill, be for long the only method
allowed. Langstroth cites the following objections to
natural swarming, which are, without doubt, well
founded: “First. A serious objection to reliance on
natural swarming, is the vexatious fact, that swarming
hives are so constructed that although Bees often refuse
to swarm at all, they cannot furnish to their crowded
occupants sufficient accommodation for storing honey.
Under such circumstances, hordes of useless consumers
will often (for months) blacken the outside of the hives,
to the great loss of their disappointed owners. Second.
Another objection to natural swarming arises from the
disheartening fact that Bees are liable to swarm so often,
as to destroy the value of both parent stock, and its
after swarms. Experienced Bee-keepers obviate this
difficulty by making one good colony out of two second
swarms, returning to the parent stock all after the second,
and even that, if the season be far advanced. In frame
hives, second swarming may be prevented by removing
all the Queen cells but one; after the first swarm has
left, by removing all but two; thus provision may be
made for the issue of second swarms, if thought desir-
able, and yet all further swarming be prevented. After
swarms, in many instances, have to be returned again
and again before one Queen is allowed by the Bees to
destroy the others. In this way a large portion of the
gathering season‘is often wasted, as Bees seem unwill-
ing to work with their wonted energy, so long as the
pretentions of several rival Queens remain unsettled.

64 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING,

Third. Another very serious objection to natural
swarming, as practised with common hives, is, that it
furnishes no facilities for making vigorous stocks of late
and small swarms. The time and money devoted to
feeding small colonies are usually wasted, as the larger
portion of them never survive the winter, and most of
those that do are so enfeebled, as to be of little value.
The more of such stocks a man has, the poorer he will
be, for their weakness constantly tempts his strong
stocks to plunder them.

ARTIFICIAL SWARMING.

To the perfection of methods of compelling Bees to
swarm at will, Bee-masters have long devoted their
_ attention, and the use of bar-frame hives offers great
and valuable facilities for this purpose. How annoying
it is, after having carefully watched a stock apparently
ready to swarm for perhaps a week or two, when our
attention has been unavoidably withdrawn for a time,
to find that the Bees have issued and gone away, no
one knows where. Apiarians engaged in business else-
where than at home, have often but a poor chance of
hiving their swarms; therefore, a knowledge of some
means of artificial swarming is desirable. Straw skeps
and frame hives require different procedure; for the
latter there are several plans; for the former but one,
which is driving ; the method of this is explained in its
proper chapter, therefore I will now merely point out
when it may be resorted to. The most notable time is
when the Bees hang out—this would not happen unless

ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. 65

the hive were over-populated ; therefore, it is desirable
to give immediate relief by driving, or what may be
better called forcing a swarm. In driving for a swarm,
a fine day must be chosen, and the driving performed as
I have elsewhere given instructions. It is essential to
consider whether the swarm is to be sent a distance
away or to remain at home. A sufficient number of
Bees should be driven inta the empty skep with the
Queen (she being indispensable), and in the first case we
may nearly denude the old hive of the Bees, there will
be quite enough abroad in the fields, who on their
return home will furnish nurses for the brood, if the old
stock be replaced on its former stand. The swarm
should be at once tied up, and kept so until it reaches
its new home. This mode of procedure cannot be
adopted with safety if the stock and the swarm are to
remain near together, as so many Bees would desert the
swarm for their old home, that the new colony would,
from want of strength, be practically useless. We may
remedy this in various ways. The swarm may be
temporarily sent away a distance of at least a mile and a
half, and the old stock be replaced on its former stand ;
the Bees which return home from the fields will then be
found sufficient to carry on the work of the hive. After a
few days the swarm may, after sunset, be brought back,
when the Bees will have forgotten their old locality. An-
other and a very good way is to place the denuded hive
on the stand of some other strong stock in the Apiary,
removing that one a few yards away ; the returning Bees,
although probably very much surprised at the new order
of things in their home, will not hesitate to make the
best of their misfortune, and proceed to hatch the brood
and raise a Queen. In the swarming season the combs

of a strong stock contain such an immense number of
F

66 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

young Bees, in all stages of development, that the hive
soon becomes as populous as before.

If it is not convenient to adopt either of the above
plans, then let only half the Bees, with the Queen, be
driven from the old hive, and if the swarm be placed on
the old stand its strength will be increased by desertions
from the stock; enough young Bees will be left in the
latter to do the nursing.

The population will quickly be increased by hatching
out, and if no Queen cells are in existence, the Bees will
immediately start some, and a Queen will be hatched in
from 10 to 16 days, according to the age of the larva or
egg that has been converted from a Worker to a Queen.
If the Apiarian can obtain a sealed Queen cell, or better
still, a fertile Queen, supply the hive with it at once,
taking proper precautions against the destruction of it
by the Bees. This will materially reduce the time during
which the breeding ceases.

To a tyro, it is not easy to utilize surplus Queen cells
in common straw hives. A few puffs of smoke blown into
the entrance will so quiet the Bees that the hive may
be turned up and examined, and Queen cells, being
generally on the edge of the combs, are usually easily
seen. If it be desired to remove one to another straw hive,
it may be grafted into a like position it was removed
from, or it may more advantageously be inserted at the
top in the feeding hole, taking care the point of the
cell be not obstructed, as from there the young Queen
will make her entrance into the busy hive. Once let
the Bee-keeper master the art of driving, and he will
no longer allow his Workers to hang out idle, or risk
the loss of a swarm by waiting the pleasure of his
Bees.

Where artificial swarming is carried on on a large

ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. 67

scale, Langstroth has devised an ingenious plan to re-
populate denuded colonies :—

“Let the Apiarian obtain a forced swarm from some
Bee-keeper a mile or two off. Bring it home and con-
fine the Bees, allowing plenty of ventilation, until late in
the afternoon or early next morning; then let him force
four or five swarms, placing them at once on the stands
of the parent stocks, and these latter where it is intended
they shall permanently remain. The imported swarm
should now be shaken out on a sheet and sprinkled with
syrup, to prevent the Bees taking wing. With a saucer
scoop up, without hurting any of them, as many Bees as
you can, and carry them to the mouth of one of the old
stocks from which you have driven a swarm ; continue to
do this until you have about equally apportioned the
Bees. These Bees, having no previous home in your
Apiary, will adhere to the different hives in which they
are placed, and thus, without any further trouble, your
parent stocks and forced swarms will alike prosper. If
the Bee-keeper cannot conveniently obtain a swarm from
a distance, he. may use for this purpose the first natural
swarm which comes off in his own Apiary, and by
delaying to make artificial colonies until natural swarms
begin to issue; every such swarm may be used for form-
ing at least four artificial ones.”

Dr. Donhoff gives a method to secure a colony which,
when divided in the way above mentioned, will not for-
sake their new habitations :—

“On a fine evening, when the next day promises to be
bright, drive out a swarm and set it in the place of the
parent stock; next day, when it is warm, pour some
honey amongst the Bees, and in a few hours they will
swarm,”

A forced swarm may also be made to take kindly to
F 2

68 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

their new quarters in the following way: Secure the
Queen, and when the Bees show that they miss her, con-
fine them to their hive (properly ventilated), until their
agitation has reached its height. Then release them ;
and, as they begin to take wing, present to them their
Queen, when they will cluster round her, and may be
treated like a natural swarm.

I will now endeavour to describe the means by which
advanced Apiarians form artificial swarms in frame hives.
In the first place, if it be simply required to force a swarm
for the purpose of supplying some one else with the Bees,
we may adopt the following plan:—Remove the full hive
ten or twelve yards away from its old stand, and, in its
place, place the new hive which is to contain the swarm;
then carefully remove and replace each comb seriatim
from the old hive, and search for the Queen, who, being
found, must be captured and carefully placed in the new
hive, before which should be spread a sheet or broad
board. Now take out the combs again, and, bringing
each to the sheet, give it a sharp shake close to the hive,
and the Bees covering them will be precipitated to the
ground, and will immediately run into the entrance to
rejoin their Queen. The hive should be propped up a
little to give them easier access, and care should be taken
that the sheet is so placed that the Bees cannot run
under the floor-board.

When enough Bees are obtained to make a good
swarm, they should be confined (with proper ventilation),
removed where desired, and the first hive brought back
to the old spot ; or we may proceed as follows: Having
a hive with frames of the same gauge as the one that is
to supply the swarm, bring it to the side of the other,
administer a puff or two of smoke, uncover, and when
the crown board is removed, sprinkle the Bees with

ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. 69

syrup. Now search for the comb on which the Queen
is; having found it, transfer with any more frames of
brood that can be spared to the new hive, and having
put in their places the remaining frames, furnished
with clean empty Worker combs, if possible, stand this
hive in the situation of the full one; the returning Bees
will people it and form aswarm. Another stand must
be found for the old hive, a good many of whose Bees
will desert it and tend to strengthen the new colony,
headed by their old Queen, but enough will remain to
carry on the business of the hive. We may often easily
and economically make a new swarm by abstracting one
or more combs of sealed brood, with all the Bees upon
them, from a number of hives, putting all these into the
new hive and confining them (properly ventilated) for a
few days. Many of the bees even then will fly,to their
old home, but in their place others will have hatched.
Before shutting them up, it is advisable to sprinkle them
with a little scented syrup, or a fight might take place;
but it does not often occur. Great care should be
observed that no Queen is taken with the combs, or the
strange Bees would probably kill her. The depriva-
tion of one or two combs of brood will scarcely affect
the old hives, if they are as strong as they should be;
and if clean, empty combs be put in their places, the
Queens will probably at once fill the cells with eggs.
If any sealed Queen cells are known to be, or can be
found, in any other hive, one may be given with advantage
to each stock deprived of its Queen; time, which is all
important at this season, is thus saved. By making one
artificial swarm a week or ten days before the others,
there may in the swarmed stock generally be found
sufficient Queen cells to supply many hives ; and in case
a young Queen should emerge, she may be preserved

70 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

from destruction by covering her with a cup Queen cage,
or one of Mr. Carr’s pattern. Of course, it is preferable
to supply the swarmed stock with a fertile Queen, if
possible, as it must always be remembered that this
saves one or two weeks of breeding time in the height
of the season; and as a young fertile Queen will lay
2000 or 3000 eggs per diem, the gain may be easily
calculated. In forcing swarms, be satisfied with one from
each stock, or even two out of three; prevent the issue,
if necessary, of any more, and if the Bees have surplus
energies, let them use them to gather honey, for it is
a well-known axiom, that if many swarms are made there
will be little honey; the reason is obvious, the labour
of the Bees is expended in nursing the young and pro-
viding them with sustenance, and this with a population
constantly being reduced.

In removing frames from a hive, note should be taken
of the order in which they are found, and they should
be replaced in the same order, or they will not fit, and
in some places the Bees will find no passage by which
they can feed the brood.

HIVES.

‘* And, behold, there’was a swarm of Bees and honey in the carcase of the
lion.” —JUDGEs xiv. 8.

ONE of the primary considerations to the Bee-keeper
is a proper selection of hives; and in this chapter it is
my purpose to give an impartial description of the most
useful patterns with which I am acquainted. It does not
always follow that the most perfect hive is suitable to all ;
in the first place, cost is ofttimes a great consideration.

HIVES, 7

One person will desire to study the natural history of the
Bee, and use his Apiary very much for scientific investi-
gation, without regard to pecuniary profit ; another will
look to the latter point alone ; while a third will, perhaps,
for want of leisure, or of education, only be able to
manage the hive which gives the least possible trouble,
content to sacrifice a large portion of profit. Hives
naturally divide themselves into two great classes, viz. :
straw skeps, where the combs are immoveable, and
wooden frame hives, where the combs can be removed at
will, and the whole internal economy of the hive investi-
gated by the Bee-master. To the latter class of Bee-
' dwellings we are indebted for a great multitude of facts,
which have in modern times come to light in Apiarian
science, as well as many physiological discoveries, of
great interest to the naturalist. The crude idea of
moveable combs is, indeed, of very ancient date, having
been adopted by the Greeks in the days of their pros-
perity, but having been of a very rude character, appear
to have fallen into disuse; the plan adopted was to
induce the Bees to start their combs from moveable
bars, but as they were generally attached to the sides of
the hives, they required cutting away before removal,
which in some measure prevented constant observation
from the natural objection of the Bees to have their works
destroyed. It was reserved for our own times to make
a great stride in management by the invention of the
moveable frames (in lieu of bars), suspended free in the
hives, and removeable at pleasure without greatly dis-
turbing the Bees. The credit of this device is attri-
butable to the Rev. L. L. Langstroth, an American
Bee-keeper of great renown, and another equally cele-
brated German Bee-master named Dzeirzon, who seem
simultaneously to have hit on the same plan, and who

72 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

each constructed hives on this idea about the year 1851,
which, with many slight modifications and improvements,
form the governing principles of our most popular hives
at the present day.

The use of straw skeps, as Bee dwellings, has been so
long almost universal, that many Bee-masters have too
often, without trial, condemned all other forms. The
material of frame hives, wood, has been maligned times
without number, as an encouragement to damp, and all
manner of evils have been predicted for the unfortunate
Bees, compelled to dwell in a wooden domicile. The
prejudice is now gradually dying away, until we find all
those, who are for progression, giving in their adherence
to the oft-proved fact, that the frame hive gives the best
results, when managed with ordinary care. By the use
of moveable frames, we can at all times make ourselves
acquainted with the exact state of our colonies—equalize
by exchange of combs their stores and brood; weak
colonies may be strengthened, or united to others
without trouble ; swarms made when desired, saving all
care and anxiety of watching ;‘and, to an almost certainty,
swarms may be prevented when supers are required to
be filled. Feeding may be conducted in a clean and
efficient manner, and the wonderful doings of the Bees
are at all times open to the discerning eye of the
student. Other objections to frame hives are, that they
are costly, and require the expenditure of too much
time. The cost of a frame hive is entirely optional. I
hope presently to show, how the poor man may find it
scarcely exceeds that of a skep, with its floor-board and
cover, and for the trouble, whatever time is given in
excess of that bestowed on a straw skep, will be amply
repaid. In America many men keep bees as a trade,
and there the labour of one man is sufficient for 150 or

HIVES. 73

200 hives, and unless he employs his spare time in
manufacturing his hives and appliances, he finds six
months of the year at least with nothing to do. If I
except about ten weeks in the midst of summer, when
swarming and honey gathering is in full progress, I am
at a loss to know how any man, with a dozen frame
hives, could usefully bestow on them an average of an
hour’s labour a week; he may spend, in season, any
amount of time in studying and watching his little
favourites, but this would be of more advantage to him-
self than the Bees. In fine summer weather I rarely
commence my daily duties without spending half an
hour with my Bees, and this short interval is certainly
the most enjoyable of the day. An advocate for straw
skeps, in pitting the weight of his honey crop against
that from a frame hive, too often forgets to take into
consideration, gwalizy—the bruised and broken combs,
the discoloured run-honey, frequently adulterated with
all the impurities of the hive, that would pass through
the strainer, can no more be fairly compared to the
spotless purity of the well-filled combs of the frame
supers, than can the strawberries of the woods be com-
pared to the large luscious fruit of the gardens. If the
Bee-keeper be content to let the Bees manage them-
selves, without ever intending to afford them any assist-
ance, then it is quite immaterial whether straw skeps or
frame hives be used; but if it be desired to obtain all
advantages possible from the Bees, then adopt the best
aids for this purpose—/rame hives.

I commence with a description of

STRAW SKEPS—The general form of which is known
to all. These, although fast being superseded, ate yet
used, and will be for many years to come the common
hives of the cottager. I will endeavour to point out the

74 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

best varieties. Now, the straw skep, although very far
from the dest hive, is not to be despised ; indeed, it is a
very useful: hive, and however advanced the Bee-keeper
may be, generally, he is not wholly without it in one
pattern or the other. If a census were taken of the
Bees’ dwellings throughout Britain, the skeps would far
outnumber all other kinds put together. A well-made
straw hive is warm and healthy for the Bees, and cheap
to their owner; indeed, most cottagers make their own,
costing almost nil, and affording employment for a wet
winter's day when other work is scarce. I like a skep,
it is so nice and handy; and if its interior were not like
a sealed book it should have an honoured place in my
Apiary ; but its great disadvantage is the impossibility
of investigating its internal economy with satisfaction.

STEAK
Oo

i

PROS SST? Wy,
Og LD

ce

a We ay,
tp BLISS L LI, te
iy

ZL

Fig. 4. Fig. 5.

COMMON COTTAGE STRAW SKEP.—Two patterns are
generally followed in making these hives. The one which
I suppose we may call the “original,” Fig. 4, a closed
dome, usually with a ring at the top; the other the
“improved,” Fig. 5, has a flat top, with a feeding hole in
the centre, which should not exceed two inches in
diameter. This latter is incomparably the best, as it
affords proper facilities for feeding the Bees, which will
often save their lives; its cost is from Is. to 4s. 6d., and
it may be purchased in most country towns. All straw

HIVES. 75

hives are much improved and their durability increased
by encircling their bases with a flat wooden hoop 2 or
24 inches broad. The hive known as the “ Pettigrew
Hive” is nothing more than a large flat-topped skep.
There are three sizes, viz. 16-inch, 18-inch, and 20-
inch in diameter, that is their width inside measure, and
I2 or 14 inches deep. When well filled they weigh
respectively 60 pounds, 100 pounds, and 130 pounds.
They are made in Ayrshire of wheaten straw, neatly and
firmly built. These hives are largely used in the North
of England and in Scotland; and Mr. Pettigrew quotes
instances where the Bees have in them gathered as
much as 164 pounds gross weight of contents. When
using such large skeps the Bees cannot be expected
to store any honey in supers, and in a great measure the
quality of the honey is sacrificed without any adequate
benefit. The combs in the main hive must of necessity
become soiled from the labours of the immense popula-
tion ; while, had half the store been gathered in supers,
this half would be worth as much as double the quantity
from the breeding hive. To those who determine on
the use of straw Skeps I would recommend the pattern
of Fig. 5, of about 14 inches in diameter by 8 inches deep,
inside measure. These will be found a very manageable
size, admitting the use of a super when required. For
exceptionally good localities larger hives may be used.
It is highly important that the material of which they
are made should be good sound straw, and the bands of
adequate thickness; for on this, be it remembered, de-
pends in a great measure the well-doing of the stock.
Each hive will require a sound wooden floor-board—if
14 or 2 inches thick, so much the better. In country
districts these are well and economically cut out of the
boll of a felled tree. It should be at least 1 inch greater

76 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

in diameter than the hive, and have a projecting front for
the Bees to alight on (see the floor-board on Fig. 10),
which should, with the remainder of the margin of the
board, be bevelled off for the rain to run off. However
well the skep may be made, it would be folly to expose
them to the weather without protection from the rain,
and many plans may be adopted to guard against this.
A very rural way is to make a conical straw hackle, Fig.
6, fitting over the hive, and
throwing off the water like
the thatch of a barn. An-
other way is to cover the
hive with an inverted flat
milk pan, such as is used in
dairies to set the milk in.
It matters little what is used
so that the desired result be
obtained, for it must be
borne in mind that a dry
hive in winter is one of the
first essentials for prosperity.
The straw hackle, Fig. 6, can be made without difficulty,
thus: The straw having been well soaked, as for thatch-
ing, is securely tied with basket-maker’s twigs or tarred
string. Hoops are then fastened within at K, L, and
M,N. The hackles are then fitted over and adapted to
the form of the hives, then left to dry, stiffen, and set.
A wooden peg or two passed through the hackle above
the hoop into the hive side will prevent the wind
disturbing it.

The following suggestions, published in ‘The Country,’
by Mr. Cheshire, for skep covers will be found both
useful and ingenious :—

“Double back upon itself a flour or manure sack, as

Fig. 6.

HIVES. 7

you would a stocking before putting it on, and draw this
down over the skep until the doubled edge is round the
lower part of the hive, just above the flight hole, which
should be kept open by a little bridge of wood, zinc, or
tin. A cord may now be tied round the sack at the
lower part, while shavings, sawdust, or straw should be
filled in between the parts of the sack, as it were between
the foot and leg of the stocking, until the hive crown is
well covered, for here it is that the loss of heat is the
greatest. The sack’s mouth being tied, the operation is
complete, and we may make the hive sufficiently secure
to winter in the open by putting over it an inverted milk-
pan, if of sufficient size, or, better, the cover, Fig. 9, to
be presently described. I could wish all skeps were too
large to be covered by American cheese-boxes ; but this
not being the fact, I will explain how these covers, which
may be obtained for the sum of 3a, may be made into
capital rain-tight protectors, good for ten years’ wear.
The lid of the box, placed on four inverted flower-pots,
or some bricks, will make an excellent bottom board,
while the box proper forms the case for the hive itself.
Before being used, the bottom of it, which will be its top
as a hive case, should be painted well over with hot pitch,
which should be made to cover 1 or 2 inches down the
side. A sheet of newspaper,or canvas if preferred, should
now be evenly spread over the cold pitch, when, by the
application of a hot flat iron, used after the manner of
the laundress, the pitch is remelted, well incorporated
both with the wood and the paper, all cracks are closed,
and the cover made absolutely rain-proof. The box may
now be placed over the hive, which should be previously
furnished with sufficient hay, straw, sacking, or such like
material, to fill up any spaces. A capital cover may
be made of roofing-felt, which is sold for 8d. the yard

78 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

run, and is 2 feet 8 inches wide. It should be cut as
shown in Fig. 7. Make
a notch in a lath, 17
inches from its end, at
1 inch from which bore
a hole with a brad-awl,
which stick 16 inches
from the end of the felt
: at B, and equally dis-

Fig. 7. tant—that is, 16 inches
—from each edge. With chalk in the notch in the lath
run round the three-quarter circle, A, C, E. Now place the
awlat A, and describe the three-quarter circle F, D, B.
Cut out the two covers through F, A, B, E. Draw their
straight edges together, until one edge touches the dotted
line. Tack these two edges together into a thin lath, and
the cover isin form. The waste pieces of felt, which
will be very small, will suffice for four straps, to be
fastened underneath by clenched nails, and which may
be tied to the hive by a
string passing round it.
This will effectually pre-
vent the cover being blown
away in the stiffest gales.
Fig. 8 shows the cover com-
plete ; it will be 24 inches
in diameter, G, H,and will
afford, in consequence of its greater size, far better
protection than a milk-pan, while it costs only 54d.
Coated with tar, and afterwards sprinkled with hot sand,
this cover will last many years. The same form in zinc
would be more sightly, but it would cost about Is. 6d.
for material.”

TF

Fig. 8.

HIVES. 79

NEIGHBOUR’S IMPROVED COTTAGE HIVE.—This has
been a popular hive for many
years,and is pretty and interest-
ing to those who are satisfied
with an imperfect view of their
industrious labourers. It con-
sists of a circular straw lower
compartment, or main body of
the hive, having three windows
with outside shutters. A ther-
mometer is fixed across the
centre window, so that the Bees
cannot work between it and the
glass, and thus intercept the
view of the graduated scale.
The stock hive, encircled with a hoop, rests on a stout
floor-board, fashioned with a projecting landing-place for
the Bees. The top is also of wood, having three or more
circular openings of about 3 inches in diameter, to
receive as many bell-glasses, having fixed on their tops
internally a tube of perforated zinc for ventilation, to
which guide-combs may be fastened, and which also
forms a convenient support for the Bees when com-
mencing their labours; over all is fitted a cover of
straw (also hoop-bound), closely fitting the top of the
stock hive, and permitting removal with great facility to
allow inspection of operations; this straw cover is sur-
mounted by a ventilator forming a neat finish. The
price of this, 35s., is, however, a bar to its general use,
more especially as, unlike most hives of an equal cost,
the combs are immoveable.

EKES AND NapirRs.—An eke is an additional space
added on to a hive de/ow the original. They are princi-
pally used with straw skeps, when the Bees are pressed

80 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

for room; the hive is lifted up, and a ring like the rim
of a sieve, in either straw or wood, placed on the floor-
board and the hive placed on it; the Bees will then
continue their combs downwards, and will usually not
swarm. If more room is still required, add another eke.
When full, the ekes may be severed from the main hive
by a wire, but the honeycomb in them will only be fit
for run-honey, as it will be contaminated with brood and
Bee-bread. The straw-hivists, who boast of their 160
pounds of contents in a straw hive, reckon the ekes as a
part of the hive; in the rare case of this extreme weight
being attained, one-third at least would be dross. .

A nadir is another complete but empty hive, with
open feed-hole, placed below an over full one, where the
Bees have been hanging out. These should be cemented.
together at the junction, and the Bees will then go down
through the feed-hole, and fill the lower hive with combs
in which the Queen will breed ; the upper hive may at
the end of the season be removed, and the combs cut
out for run-honey. The only advantage, and that is a
doubtful one, I can see in nadirs is, that the Bees get
new combs for old ones, and swarming is prevented, if
undesirable. Neither ekes nor nadirs are much used in
the South of England.

FRAME HIvEes.—When my opinion is asked, what
hives I recommend for use, I say without hesitation
FRAME HIVES; but if the interrogation proceeds
further, and I am asked what particular hive, I answer, I
advocate the principle only. It matters little to the
Bees, or the profit they will produce, whether the hive is
made of the finest mahogany or the commonest deal ;
and nine-tenths of the little absurd intricacies which
hive-makers delight to furnish their hives with serve
but to increase expense, and confuse the unfortunate

HIVES. 81

tyro in Bee-keeping. When I have examined minutely
and serzatzm the large collection of hives at a great Bee
Show, I have been often struck with the many eccen-
tricities, called “inventions,” which their owners doubt-
less honestly believe will tend to benefit Apiculture, but
which an experienced impartial person condemns at
once as useless. In my own Apiary I have hives of
several patterns, and among them all I greatly prefer
the hive for which Mr. Cheshire obtained the principal
prize at the first Crystal Palace Show. This has the
great merit of simplicity, combined with working facili-
ties and sound principles of construction. A well-made
hive, all parts accurately fitting, affords a good deal of
ease and comfort to the manipulator; but to the Bees
themselves, the hive of the rudest, roughest construction,
provided it be weather-proof, is just as good as the
work of the most experienced joiner, and the skilful
Bee-master, I have no doubt, can obtain as good results
from the first as the last. There are probably some
hundreds of varieties of hives, each in some one’s opinion
surpassing all others; it is, therefore, in vain for me to
think of indicating “the best,” so I will content myself
with describing some of “the best” in such a manner as
will, I hope, enable the poor man to make his own at
little cost, and the rich man to purchase’a satisfactory
dwelling for his Bees.

As with the hives, so with the frames. Discussion
both here and in America has waxed hot and fierce as
to their form and size. The only essential requirements
are, that they shall be of such a width as shall allow 13
inches from centre to centre, when in position in the
hive. Their length and depth may vary at the owner's
pleasure, provided that all in the same Apiary are

exactly the same size, so as to be interchangeable. It
G

82 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

is reasonable to suppose, that localities that produce
much honey will fill larger combs than poorer places,
and therefore it is impossible to fix a standard size for
all. Several hive-makers are advertising “ standard
hives” and “standard frames.” They may be their
standards, but for general use they are nothing of the
kind. In England, probably the Woodbury frame is
more generally used than any other, and we may seek
far before we find a better. In the United States,
many frames are in use. The following is a diagram of
the principal, of which the Langstroth seems to be the
favourite; but for English use, excepting very favourable
localities, this is perhaps too large:

18% 12
es 8
UINBY, os ;
Q x AMERICAN.
7 ni
0 La)
LANGSTROTH. S¢ GALLUP. 3
vag
3% “ 19%
ADAIR, W& CLOSED END QuINBY. 4

The balance of opinion seems to be, that shallow
frames are better for use than deeper ones.

‘ HIVES. 83

THE CHESHIRE CRYSTAL PALACE PRIZE HIVE. —

Fig. ro.

The Judges at the first Great Apiarian Exhibition, after
having examined the many hives shown, awarded the
palm to Mr Cheshire for this hive; and, as I have before
intimated, I quite concur in their judgment, and those
who can afford its purchase will find it easy to work
with, giving the minimum of disturbance to the Bees, as
well as affording every facility to investigate all parts.
I extract the following description from the pages of
‘ The Country’ :—

“The hive consists of two main portions; the super
cover, and the hive proper, the lower portion in which
breeding is carried on. Over the entrance is a porch.
This is chamfered off towards the end, the more

G3

84 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

effectually to carry away drip, and has a channel near
its front edge, which acts as a gutter, by which the
rain is conveyed to its ends. This gutter is shown in
the cross section, Fig. 11, at E. The bottom-board
of the hive projects 24 inches along the front, so as to
form a very convenient alighting board. The flight-hole
is 10 inches in length, and is formed by cutting from the
hive-wall a piece a full + inch deep (see G, Fig. 11). F,
Fig. 11, is screwed (on beneath the porch roof to give it
additional stability, and also to provide the groove for
two sliding shutters (shown in Fig. 11), by which the
entrance way may be regulated as occasion may require.

Fig. rz.

Upon the upper part of the ends of these are two small
studs preventing the shutters from meeting, so that the
entrance can only be reduced to about half an inch.

HIVES. 85

This arrangement prevents the accidental closing of the
hive mouth to the destruction of the colony, while it
admits of its (ze. the mouth’s) immediate lessening in
the event of robbing, or for the purpose of wintering.
Should, however, the absolute stopping of the entrance
way be desired, the doors may be removed, and put in,
the right on the left, and the left on the right, when they
will meet, as their studs will be on their outer instead of
their proximate ends.

“The bottom-board is so contrived that it can be
removed without disturbing the Bees, as it slides upon
two runners seen beneath it in Fig. 10. Blocks I and K,
Fig. 11, fitted in between these runners and bottom-board,
press it against the hive body and hold it in position.
The legs are fastened to the hive proper, so that it carries
its own stand. When the bottom-board is slipped into
position it is stopped by a back piece, H, Fig. 11. The
super cover, the upper part of Fig. 10, or L, M, N, O,
Fig. 11, is hinged, and so contrived by the aid of a chain
that it can only open until its lines, horizontal when zz
situ, become perpendicular, and vice versa. The advan-
tage this supplies beyond the ordinary loose case is con-
siderable. It is sometimes inconvenient to find suitable
standing for the latter during manipulation, while this
arrangement provides the Bee-master with a table, often
of great service when the hive is open, upon which
he can place his smoker, syrup, knife, &c., during his
operations.

“ The walls of the hive are double, as may be seen by
reference to Fig. 11, and have between them a space
containing dead air, shown by the black broad lines.

“The dummy (A, z, Fig. 12), which usually hangs next
the hive side, and gives play to the combs by its removal,
is simply a double board the same size as a frame.

86 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

“In order to give room for the ears of the frames, the
inner skin, front and back, is made an inch shallower
than the outer one. Standing 3-8ths of an inch above
the former are two strips of zinc (1 and 2, Fig. 11), each
about an inch wide, and which serve to carry the frames
so that they cannot be propolised, while they—z.e. the
frames—can be slidden backwards and forwards with
the greatest ease during manipulation. The top bar of
the frame is 3-8ths thick, so that the space between the
top bar and the cover is } inch. The depth of the hive (D,
H, Fig. 11) is 82 inches, the width within between 1 and
2, 144 inches, the frames being exactly the same in size
as those known as Woodbury’s. The length (C, D, Fig.
11) will vary with the number of frames used, but I1
seems to give the hive the correct capacity.

Fig. 12.

“Fig. 12 shows the arrangement of the frames, which
are kept at their correct and relative distances by
means of small nails known amongst carpenters as
panel pins. Combs I to 6 are shown iz situ, and by
having the dummy, as in the figure, a small swarm,

HIVES. 87

instead of weakening itself by excessive distribu tion
would be cosily confined to about half the hive; and in
some cases it might be an economy of heat, and in other
ways advantageous to still further reduce their working
space. It is here worthy of remark that, removing the
dummy from the end of the hive beyond frame 11,
where it would usually remain, and placing it in any
part, does not prevent the 11 frames being accommo-
dated as before, for if the dummy stands, as in the figure,
outside No. 6, the frame beyond it—z. e. No. 7—will
touch the dummy at one of its ends, and so give space
for the full length of the distance pin of the last frame.

A T H is
ary S22 1b
We”
E G
i}
|
S
{
1
f
i
F aa H
\
cL mms
c 1 | r
K

Fig. 13.

“ Fig. 13 represents the crown-board, the edge of
which is seen at C, D (Fig. 11). This consists of five
strips or slats, clamped at their ends to prevent warping ;
they are each 173 inches long.

“The width of the central strip is 5 inches, while thet
of the others is 32 inches. The central one is pierced
with a hole 13 inches in diameter, and over this is placed
a feeding stage. At E, F,and G, H, the top board is

88 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

cut away } inch in width and Io inches in length. Not-
withstanding the removal of these parts, the board
completely covers the hive top, but if the outside slat
(A, I, C, K) be made to change places with the one
next it, E, F will occupy the position E’, F’, and will form
a long hole or slat, which will give the Bees ingress to
the super, the frame of which occupies the position of
the dotted lines, a, 4, c,d. The same being done on the
other side, the Bees are freely admitted to the super,
while the Queen, the Nurses, and the pollen gatherers
of the brood nest beneath are prevented by an unbroken
ceiling from passing up into and spoiling the honeycomb
in the super.”

This hive is made by Lee, of Bagshot, and sold at
23s. to 355.,according to completeness and workmanship.

WoopBuRY HIVE.—This hive with which the late
Mr. Woodbury, of Exeter,
fs introduced the bar - frame
system was, I believe, first
described by him in the ‘Jour-
nal of Horticulture’ (to which
he was a leading contributor),
2 in 1861. Although some im-
provements have been made,
which I will presently endea-
vour to describe, the term
“Woodbury Hive” is still a household word amongst
Bee-keepers, and there are few of any note who have
not partly or wholly adopted it at one time or another.

The following is Mr. Woodbury’s own description of
a ten-frame hive, as it appeared in the ‘ Journal of Horti-
culture’ :—

“Frame hives are made of inch wood, 143 inches
square, and 9 inches deep inside, dovetailed and put

HIVES. 89

together with paint, the ends of the dovetails being
pinned through with stout iron wire driven from the top
and bottom, and meeting in the centre. A window 73
inches long by 4 deep affords a slight view of the interior
from the back (not the front, as engraved), but is much
obstructed by the frames. The crown board which is
raised in the engraving (Fig. 14) is keyed to prevent
warping, and is secured by four long brass screws passing
through the ends of the keys. A 2-inch central hole for
feeding is the only aperture, and this is closed when not
in use by a circular block of 1}-inch wood, § inches in
diameter. A 3-8th rabbet is cut out of the top inner
edge at the back and front, and below this are notches
7-8ths wide by 3-8ths deep, in which rest the ends of the
frames. This arrangement affords the Bees a free pas-
sage above the frames, as well as below at their sides.
The annexed sketch (Fig. 15) of the interior angle of
the hive is drawn the full size, and will serve as a guide
for the arrangement of the frames.

Ail! He

St

Fig. 15.

“The slips of wood forming the frame are 7-8ths of an
inch wide, and 3-8ths of an inch thick; and the projec-
tions at the top are 5-8ths of an inch long. When in its
place the whole forms a frame 13 inches long by 7}

go A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

inches high (inside measure), with a 5-8th projection at
each end, which rests in its appropriate notch in either
the back or front of the hive. The
accompanying engraving (Fig. 16)
represents the frame filled with
comb, in which state the comb be-

Fig. 16. comes so firmly cemented to the
frame as to admit of its being handled with the greatest
facility.”

This, which we may call the father of our frame hives,
although very good, has shown sundry inconveniences
easily remedied. In the first place the crown-board,
although “keyed,” is very liable to warp, and thus gives
the Bees more air than is at all times desirable; again,
when firmly propolized down by the Bees it was difficult
to move without a great shock and irritation to them, so
now it is usual to make the crown-board in three or four
pieces (strips), and not screw them down at all. The
Bees will soon make them fast, and indeed ofttimes too
fast; then one piece at a time can be removed, thus
exposing but a small surface of the hive’s interior if
desired, and a small piece of wood of course is more easily
detached from the propolis adhesion than a large one.
The notches forming resting-places for the ends of the
‘frames have often been found a great nuisance; the
Bees, who are careful architects, will insist on firmly
fixing each bar in its place; and where removal is fre-
quently desired, considerable trouble occurs in detaching
them, the small dividing blocks between the notches
often breaking away, until three or four are run together.
This inconvenience may be obviated by reducing the
height of back and front to 84 inches, and instead of the
notches to form one plain rabbet, in which the frames
are placed ; but here we must have some contrivance to

HIVES. gt

keep them a proper distance apart. One of the most
useful is to drive a stout wire pin or French wire nail
into the side of the frame, about 3} an inch from the
ends, projecting just far enough (about 19-32nds of an
inch) to keep them at proper distance; two on each
frame will be found sufficient, one at the top left side,
the other at the bottom right side, with a similar peg in
the left side of the hive front, and ditto right side back.
These hives are sold at various prices, from about 8s. to
25s., according to workmanship and completeness, with
stand cover, supers, &c.

THE COTTAGE FRAME HIVE.

Fig. 27:

Very often when I have recommended labouring men
to make their frame hives themselves, and referred them
to printed descriptions, I have been met with the reply
that they cannot work from description, but if they could
have a pattern they could accomplish the work. It is
impossible to distribute far and wide, as I should like,

92 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

pattern hives without great cost; but I here endeavour,
as the next best plan, to give drawings and dimensions
of every. piece of wood requisite for‘a good cottage
frame hive. My aim is to describe the simplest and
least expensive method of hive-making. Hammer, saw,
and plane are all the tools absolutely necessary, and
these most people can use with skill enough to make a
hive such as I describe, that with ordinary care will be
found serviceable twenty years hence. Let me say per-
fection is not aimed at, but simply such a hive as will
carry out the main principles of modern rational Bee-
keeping, and be infinitely better than the closed straw
skeps of our forefathers. I hope my instructions will be
found simple enough to enable every poor man to set up
a serviceable frame hive. The “Woodbury” size is very
convenient, and with many modifications, which have all
been before adopted, I shall follow its design.

When we build a house we commence with the base-

FReeieee 1 ape ment, and so we will do
the same with our hive
and proceed to describe
the floor-board. Cut two
A oH B pieces of wood 1 inch
thick, the shape and di-
mensions of A and B.
! Rule a pencil-line from
a to 4, and bevel off the
aes part below it to half the

Fig. 18. thickness of the wood to

form a slope for the rain to run off ; then bring the two
inner edges together, and prepare two battens, as C, of
unplaned wood, which nail or ,, = ;
screw crosswise underneath [@ Cc S|

4

about 33 inches from each Fig. 19.

HIVES. 93

end. The floor-board should be fastened to the body
with screws. This being complete, I proceed to describe

§ m7 the hive-body. This is simply
SaPRS Rss IGG ose scan— =,

a bottomless and topless box
ole _ made of inch deal, 143 inches
ee square by 82 inches deep in-
: side measure. Two pieces of

Fig. 20. wood, as F, will form the sides,
and for the back and front cut two more pieces of the
shape and dimensions of D and E, which having planed

eh

le --14 a b=
ok ole
i
i !
! v
a ee
Fig. 21. Fig. 22.

on one side as the others, with a rabbet-plane or tenon-
saw cut out from the unplaned side of one of the long
edges of D and E,a rabbet 1§ inch deep, and half the
thickness of the wood, as at E. Procure two strips of
zinc, 144 by I inch, and fasten these with tin tacks over
the angle a, as shown by the dotted lines, so that the
upper edge of the zinc shall be exactly 5-8ths of an inch
lower than the top edge of the wood; now nail these
four pieces of wood together, D and E inside the .F’s,
and the hive-body will be complete. The crown-board
will be composed of the five pieces G (2), H (2) and I,

== — >] a So banamaeieg 16 Panes oe eee ee ee eee
f (fb reces) | ie (2 /£CES) ‘
—Sc------192-------4h ¥
Fig. 23. Fig. 24.

also of 1-inch wood ; these, placed side by side, with the
irregular edge of G outwards, in the order of G, H,
I, H, G, will cover the top. It will be perceived that I

94 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

has a circular hole 13 inch

“# Cyr diameter, cut clean through
: the wood, for use in feeding.
Fig. 25. When access to a super is

required to be given to the Bees, it is only necessary to
reverse the pieces G, placing the slit inwards; the five
parts of the crown-board will not require joining together,
being handier separate, they do not cast so readily, and a
portion of the hive can be uncovered at a time, without
unnecessarily exposing the whole surface.

Of vast advantage to perfect Bee-keeping is an upper
chamber to the hive, within which supers may be placed
and feeding carried on undisturbed by Robber Bees.

J, K, L and M, two of each, will form this, and will

16S
Me =
(2 PIECES)
bi ;
(2 PrEcES) ! = eset
Fig. 27.
— TL We }
@ °* (2 preces) _|
Fig. 26. Fig. 28.
be roofed by is Saneenr NE er eames N and O. N
must be nailed (2 P/E CES) on before O,
and the upper Fig. 29. edge, as also
the outer upper edge of the sides K, must be bevelled off
~ at such an angle as will al-

low O to lie flat, as in the
t figure of the complete hive.
The fillets, L, M, must be
nailed on J, K, as in the
¥ dotted lines 6, 1} inch on,
Fig. 30. and the same below, when

WT

HIVES. gs

W

the upper story should fit
easily over the hive-body, the
fillet keeping it securely in
place. All these pieces should
be made of 3-inch wood (ex-
cepting L and M, which
should be 4-inch), planed on
one side. It will be found
very convenient to have fixed on at the left side a pair of
hinges, one flange screwed on the under edge of the fillet,
the other on the hive’s side beneath; and on the back
fillet at a, and on the back of the hive-body 33 inches
below that point, screw in an iron ring, and connect these
two rings together with 27 inches of chain or cord, which
will permit the hive cover to be raised without removal
from the hive ; it will be found a great convenience.

The whole externally should now be well painted
with three or four coats of light-coloured paint, and will
then be ready for furnishing with the frames. Slips of

a wood, as Q, R and S,
eS will make these and “(a0 PIECES)
Fig. 32. should be nailed to- Fig. 33.
gether as P: Q should be made of 3-8th-inch wood, R
and S of j-inch, and they need not be planed. Now
having at hand some bell-staples or French wire-nails,

19:

é---------43*--------]
°

Fig. 31.

sf

pass —?
s fs
[e=-== === 13---------]
‘ (10 PIECES) Pp
Fig. 34.
Fig. 35.

drive one into the side of the top bar on the left hand
side, as at a, and one into the opposite side at 4, these
pins are for distance guides, and should project 19-32nds

96 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

of an inch. The frames may now be placed in position,
resting on the zinc slips, and allowing about } of an inch
between the end frames and the sides of the hive pa
(which may be regulated by similar pins driven j
there) will be found to fill up the interior, and i
the hive is complete. But, if thought desirable, :
a stand may be simply and easily made by
taking a piece of quartering (T), 3 by 3; cut it
as in the dotted lines, and four legs will be pro-
duced ; g inches of the thin ends should be screwed
or nailed (sloping side inwards) on the sides of the
hive, which will then stand securely.

It is desirable that all the wood should be planed :
on one side and all the edges; but, of course, if fy |
the amateur is clever enough, he may plane his |\
wood both sides, and dovetail it together; or he |'
may strengthen the joinery by nailing over all the
exterior angles, tin plate or zinc strips, and these
may be had almost costless from old Australian | }
meat tins. I would strongly recommend that the | |
nails used be the French wire-pins. They may | |

\
\

be had of all sizes, are much easier to drive, re-
quiring no bradawl, and hold very fast. Now for
the expense. If all the materials have to be pur-
chased new, the wood (including legs) and nails will
cost as nearly as possible 5s., to which must be added Is.
for the paint. All the wood may be bought planed on one
side, which only enhances its cost a mere trifle. Should
second-hand materials be used, the cost will be, of
course, considerably reduced. The wood should in no
case be thinner than I have specified, and the internal
measurements should be carefully adhered to. It
will also be advisable to drive the principal nails in at
various angles, and clench them where possible, in

Fig. 36.

HIVES. 97

order that the sun and rain shall not draw the seams
apart.

STEWARTON Hive.—This is a very celebrated hive
in common use about Stewarton, in Ayrshire, where, as
elsewhere, it has produced most excellent results; and
when better known, will be found worthy of more
general employment. In the Apiarian Exhibition at
the Crystal Palace, in 1874, a magnificent display of the
finest white clover honey was
made in the Stewarton supers ;
the purity, quantity, and beauti-
ful regularity of the combs were
worthy of the prize and general
high commendation it obtained.
This hive is octagonal, with sides
strongly dove-tailed together. It
consists of two or three body
or breeding-boxes, whose inside
measure is 14 inches across from
side to side, or from back to
front. The height of the box,
measured inside, is 6 or 7 inches.
The bottom is perfectly open.
The top is quite flat, and con-
tains usually eight moveable bars or frames, placed
parallel to each other in the direction from back to front.
The four central bars are framed, and with the bars on
either side are 14 inches wide—the outside bars being
14 inches wide. The central frames are very useful,
affording facilities for examination of the hive whenever
desired. The spaces between the bars are capable of
being closed by strips of wood, which slide in grooves
made in the sides of the bars, and which can readily be
drawn out behind when required. Windows with sliding

H

ee

98 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

shutters are placed in the back and front of each box,
and an entrance is cut out of the front, 5 inches in width
by 3 an inch in height. In addition to the set of breed-
ing-boxes, shallow honey-boxes, 4 inches in depth, con-
taining seven bars 13 inches wide, are used as supers. They
are furnished with buttons and hooks for the purpose of
securing them together, and have no entrance in front.

The accompanying sectional sketch will illustrate the
make of the bars or frames.

SLIDE ]

Fig. 38. Fig. 39-

‘ These hives are made in great perfection at Stewar-
ton, and are marvellously cheap. Two breeding-boxes
and one honey-box, without floor-board, are, I believe,
sold for 12s. 6d.

An eminent Apiarian, who writes under the om de
plume of “A Renfrewshire Bee-Keeper,” has written so
able an article on the Stewarton hive and system, that I
cannot do better than quote it almost verbatim :—

“The general mode of manipulating the Stewarton
hive is to lash a couple of breeding-boxes together at
the weighing-hooks with cord. After the. bars of the
boxes have been duly furnished with comb, or embossed
wax sheet, run in the sliding door of the upper, and
withdraw all the slides of the lower compartments ; then
close the openings with the little pegs accompanying
the boxes. With the free communication between, the
zwo become, to all intents and purposes, ove, the Bees
may then be introduced—a prime swarm, of course.
Some eight or ten days thereafter a second prime
swarm, if procurable, is hived in the third breeding-box,

HIVES. 99

and at once set down close to the earlier one, and at
dusk the last-named is placed on the top of it. The
lower of the two first boxes—now the central—has its
door run in, and the slides of the lowest are removed
and pegged as before. Should the evening prove chilly,
a whiff of smoke may be administered to both; but this
is generally considered quite unnecessary, as it is a well-
established fact that no Bee leaves with a swarm till it has
filled its honey-bag, the lower population now ascends
with a most confiding hum, evidently firm believers in the
old Scotch proverb, “ Plenty freens when ye hae ocht.”
“The morning light reveals usually nothing but the
surplus Queen dead on the floor-board. The lowest
box is then removed, and the entrance of the second
again opened. Should any Bees be clustering in the
former, the removal can be postponed till the middle of
the day, when the Workers will be more abroad.
_ “The object of removing the third box, is to restrict
the room, so that the combined swarms may all the
sooner complete comb-building, and packing to the
glass, be thankful to press up into the super which has
been placed thereon, fitted with guide-comb. Com-
munication between stock and super is afforded by
drawing the outer slide only on either side. Should the
weather be favourable, and honey abound, it is at once
taken to; if not, it is better to run in the slides again,
and wait for a day or two; then, under more favourable
circumstances, make a fresh trial, as it is a curious fact
that Bees often will swarm rather than accept a super
open to them, which they have previously rejected.
Supposing, which is generally the case, the Bees have
taken possession, in a very few days white comb appears
at the windows ; then, and not till then, the third breed-

ing-box is placed as a nadir underneath all, its slides
H2

100 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

withdrawn and pegged as at the union, and the doorway
of the central box closed once more.

“The colony may now be said to be fairly under
weigh, and should favourable honey-gathering weather
continue, a second honey-box may be placed on the first,
and all the slides of the first super withdrawn. To
induce the Bees all the more readily to take to the
supers, I have found it a considerable advantage to run
a strip of gummed paper round the juncture of the stock
with the super, as well as with it and succeeding ones.
Should it be taken to, or if honey be plentiful, a second
slide on either side of the top box may be withdrawn at
first, either partially or wholly. This is a nice operation,
dependent on the flow of honey; and the Bee-master
must exercise his own discretion, so as, if possible, to
prevent the incursions of her majesty into the super.
The plan of admitting only the honey-gatherers of the
end combs to the supers, to the exclusion of the Queen,
the Nurses, and the pollen collectors of the centre, is a
most ingenious, original, and, indeed, one of the most
valuable features of the Stewarton system. A third and
other supers may still be called for, and the additional
super accommodation afforded, always uppermost ; and,
in exceptional cases, even additional breeding space, by
nadiring at the bottom, may be requisite, although a
strong colony was lately wrought with but eighteen
inches breeding space, while filling seven honey-boxes,
or supers, in various stages of progress. To get Bees to
take to supers at first, and to work in them steadily
through the vicissitudes of temperature, it is indispen-
sible that they be well wrapped up with some warm
woollen stuff. I generally employ old crumb cloths for
this purpose, four plies thick; and need I add that the
Stewarton hive being formed of wood but 5-8ths of an

HIVES. 101

inch thick, it is, of course, requisite, and must have the
protection of a Bee-house or shed from the direct rays
of the sun; or better still, an outer octagon case, with a
nicely bevelled roof, and an ornamental vase on top, forms
a most picturesque adjunct of the Apiary or garden.
“So soon as the lowest super is seen sealed at the
windows, the attachments between it and the stock and
second super, severed with a thin wire, it had better be
removed, the next lowest taking its place, and so on till
the end of the season. When all are removed, and slides
reintroduced, then, as cold weather sets in, and the
lowest breeding-box vacated, it, too, is better taken
away, the slides replaced, the mouth wrapped carefully
up with paper to exclude moth and dust, and suspended
in any cool dry garret till required the next season.”
THE CARR STEWARTON HIVE.—This hive, designed
by Mr. C. W. Smith, is a modification, and, in some
respects, an improvement on the original “ Stewarton,”
and is, in my opinion, by far the handsomest hive made,
especially when worked in straw, as shewn in the
woodcut; it then becomes quite an ornament to the
lawn or garden. It is manufactured by James Lee, of
Bagshot, Berkshire. Combined in it are many of the
advantages of the best bar-frame hives, as well as those
of the far-famed Stewarton. A hive may consist of one,
two, or three stock-boxes and a honey-box. The stock-
boxes are 15 inches square, and 6 inches in depth. The
honey-box is but 4 inches deep. Each stock-box is
furnished with nine moveable wedge-shaped bar-frames,
guides, windows front and back, &c. The honey-box
contains seven wide bars for honey-combs, the spaces
between the bars being fitted with slides, like the octa-
gonal Stewartons. A crown-board, having slats and
slides of the same gauge as those in the honey-box, is

102 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

provided, but is reversible, so as to suit the advocates of
a close-fitting lid, or those who prefer a 43-inch space
above the bar-frames.

Fig. 4o,

The stock-boxes can be used separately or together,
according to the strength of swarms.

With this hive, stocks and swarms can be united, or
artificial swarms made with the greatest ease; and in
summer or winter every stock in the Apiary may be
properly aided by telescopic expansion or contraction of
space, any degree of warmth needful being maintained.’
It also offers peculiar advantages in the introduction of
Queens or Queen-cells to full colonies, as only the
combs in one section need be disturbed, whereas in

HIVES. 103

other bar-frame hives, the combs to the full depth of
hive must be removed.

There are many other special features in the Carr-
Stewarton hive which strongly recommend it for general
use. For example, zz Queen-raising, as each stock-box
when placed on a floor-board will form a separate
colony of nine frames, and as only four frames will be
required for a Queen-raising nucleus, the simple inser-
tion of a close-fitting piece of board in the centre of the
box will at once convert it into a pair of nucleus hives,
the floor-board being made reversible to form double
entrances for that purpose.

At the Alexandra Palace Show, Mr. J. M. Hooker, of
Sevenoaks, gained a prize for a hive, “ The Alexandra,”
combining the storifying and collateral principle with the

Fig. 41.

ordinary Woodbury. Fig. 41 shows the general principle

104. A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

of the hive, as a whole, so well, that but little description
is required. The two wings can be cut off from the main
body by perforated zinc or diaphragm, or can be used
with either frames or sectional supers in conjunction
with the breeding compartment. The top, with its two
wings, are for sectional supers, any or all of which can be
brought into use as required. The hive is glazed all
round, which hinged shutters cover. A very fair view
can at all times be obtained of the interior.

Hives on the collateral principle seem to have fallen
greatly into disuse ; although they may still occasionally
be found, their advantages are more than counterbalanced
by those particular hives I have described.

OBSERVATORY HIveEs.—By this term is understood
such hives as enable the works of the Bees to be at all
times in view. One of the best in use is the well-known

NEIGHBOUR’S WOODBURY OBSERVATORY HIVE.—

I

cS

Niwas

af Nea iD

Fig. 42.
The interior of this hive is divided into six compart-
ments which are formed by as many Woodbury frames
run into notches on each perpendicular side; the width
of the hive is just sufficient for the thickness of the

=

HIVES. 105

combs, allowing the Bees free passage all over; they
are kept confined by a thick glass door on each side,
which in turn can be covered, and the light shut off by
external Venetian shutters. The framework of the hive
is of mahogany, and the whole revolves on an ingeni-
ously constructed turn-table, giving passage to the Bees
by a tunnel to the external air. It makes a handsome
ornament for a drawing-room or study, placed in a
window ; a small aperture in the window frame will give
passage to the Bees. This observatory hive has the evil
of all other glass hives, the cold nature of its material,
and the narrow width prevents the Bees clustering, the
consequence being that no stock can be trusted to the
rigours of the winter in it ; but its special advantage is
that the framed combs can be taken from an ordinary
Woodbury hive at the approach of summer and returned
to their old place when summer is gone. In such a hive
every Bee can be brought under observation, and when
the Queen be not found on one side turn to the other
and there she must be. This hive is made by Neighbour
& Sons, Regent Street, London.

ABBOTT'S OBSERVATORY HIVE.—This hive, of late

TOSS

EM ALLL LLL TLT ETB LLL lL,
zy 5 ~

ENTRANCE,

Fig. 43.

106 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

introduction, appears to be a very useful form. It is’
constructed to be hinged on to a door-post, or like
position, swinging either way, and when not under
observation may be folded back against the post or
wall. It is enclosed with glass doors, with or without
shutters, and made to hold any number of frames, and
an inspection of the figure will clearly show its con-
struction.

Many observatory hives of a more or less fancy
description have been designed, and are generally, in
their designers’ opinion, perfect; but other people in
practice yet find much to be desired.

GUIDE ‘COMBS, AND COMB FOUNDATION.

WHEN using frame hives it becomes an absolute neces-
sity to secure straight combs, and as the Bees have no
knowledge of their owner’s preference, they are very.
likely, if untaught, to build their combs the way their
fancy teaches them, and they often do not forget that
the line of beauty is a curve. .
One of the greatest aids to profitable and success-
ful. Bee-keeping that has for a long time been devised
is that of “Comb Foundation,” a name, I believe, of
American origin, where the article itself has been brought
to great perfection. Jor many years past, the necessity,
when using frame hives, for some guide to induce the
Bees to work straight and in the required direction
along the bars, has been felt ; and in the former editions
of this work I described the manufacture of such im-
pressed wax sheets as were then known, but which are

GUIDE COMBS, AND COMB FOUNDATION. 107

now entirely superseded by the improved manufacture.
A thin strip of old comb, or even a line of melted wax,
put on the top bar of the frame, will be sufficient to
ensure straight building, but this is not all that can be
desired ; for although the straightness of the comb be
secured, the particular construction of the cells is still a
thing to be wished for. Mr. Cheshire made a good step
in this direction by his plan of painting hot wax on a
plaster mould of Worker comb. This the Bees readily
completed; and, with care, Worker cells could be nearly
depended on; but this plan was troublesome, messy,
and, without considerable practice, difficult; but now,
since the introduction of the comb foundation, many
important points have been overcome, and we can by its
use, not only ensure that every comb shall be perfectly
straight, but almost that every cell shall be of Worker
size, thus absolutely controlling the birth of inordinate
numbers of Drones, who so severely tax the energies of
their sisters to feed. Comb foundation I will describe as
thin sheets of wax, having its whole surface on both
sides accurately impressed with the foundations of cells,
which may be either of Worker or Drone size, generally
the former for stock hives, the latter for supers. The
cells have shallow walls, which are made sufficiently
thick to provide enough wax for the Bees to draw out
to the full length of the cells. The Bees readily per-
form this work, and the beautiful regularity of a comb
when so completed is a sight to delight the eye of an
appreciative Bee-master. We must not forget that
comb-building is a great tax on the energies of the Bees,
wearing their lives out fast from the necessary hard
work, and the honey consumed in wax-secreting might
be more profitably employed in filling the cells. At the
present time, every comb in all my hives has been made

108 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

from comb foundation, and I have often, 24 hours after
supplying the wax sheets, found some of the combs
beautifully complete, and already containing eggs and
honey. When the honey-extractor is brought into use,
the value of these straight combs is very apparent,
making the labour of extracting come very easy. The
sheets I have used were imported by me from America ;
many of my friends were supplied from the same con-
signment, and all, without exception, give it most un-
qualified approval. The cost of the manufactured sheets
in America in large quantities is about 2s. per lb., about
one moiety of which is first cost of wax; the latter in
England is nearly 2s. per 1b. consequently the found-
ation must of necessity be dearer here. Mr. Root, of
Medina, Ohio, who is a large manufacturer of this
article, states that in the summer of 1878 his foundation
machines were making 1000 lbs. a week, and that four
men and a boy couid make 400 Ibs. per day. This
statement will show, that comb foundation need not be
a very costly article. My parcels from America, all
charges paid, did not come to quite 2s. 6d. per Ib. So
strong a hold has comb foundation taken on the industry
in America, that it is probable the supply of home-
grown wax will soon be unequal to the demand. Many
experiments have been made with a view of substitut-
‘ing something in place of wax, such as paraffin, and
the like, but all have resulted in failure. Paraffin makes
a good-looking foundation, but its melting-point is so
low that very warm weather causes it to fall. The
manufacturers of comb foundation, in order to secure
tough sheets that may be used with perfect safety in
the extractor, and entirely to prevent stretching, have
lately inserted thin wires rolled in the wax sheets. Of
course, thus prepared, the combs made on them are not

GUIDE COMBS, AND COMB FOUNDATION. tog

applicable for supers, and their use is yet only an expe-
riment.

The first process, in manufacturing the foundation, is
performed by dipping a sheet of galvanized iron in a
tall vessel of melted wax, which must neither be too hot
nor too cold, and the dipping-plate, which for convenience
has a wooden handle, must be kept cold by immersing
it in iced water before each sheet is dipped. It is
dipped two or three times, until the wax coating is
judged to be of the requisite thickness, when the adher-
ing wax is stripped off from both sides. The sheets are
now allowed to stand a couple of days to harden, when
they are passed between the rollers of the machine,

TT

Fig. 44.

requiring only a little trimming to be fit for use. The
sheets run from 5 to 8 square feet to the lb. the
thicker sheets being by the Bees most quickly made into

110 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING, *

combs—and to completely furnish a 10-frame Wood-
bury hive, requires about 5 square feet, equalling the
consumption of 15 Ibs. or 20 Ibs. of honey by the Bees.
The comb foundation may be used with equal advan-
tage in starting swarms, as an aid to driven Bees in
autumn, or to replace combs from any cause removed
from hives; for broad combs the sheets should be cut
about an inch smaller in width and length than the
frame, as in process of working they stretch to a certain
extent, and if the frame be completely filled there must
of necessity be some sagging. The way I have fastened
the sheets into my frames, has been by heating some
wax in a glue-pot (as glue), then fitting a board into the
frame not quite half so thick as the top bar is wide, I
lay the sheet of foundation on it, with its upper edge
close along the top bar, then paint the wax along the
joint, and after allowing a few moments to set, turn it
over, and repeat the painting on the other side. Should
the sheet not hang perpendicular, it is necessary to warm
it either by the sun or fire, when it will soon hang plumb,
or otherwise the Bees will attach it to the sides of the
frames, and the comb will not be central.

Mr. Root gives the following as the plan he prefers :-—
“Tf wax is rubbed ard against a piece of dry wood, at
ordinary temperatures, it will adhere almost as well as if
put on in a melted state. Therefore, all we have to do to
fasten it in the frames, is to lay it in place, and press the
edge against the comb guide with the fingers, until it
sticks moderately. Now take a knife or screw-driver, and
rub it down hard. To prevent the wax from sticking to
the tool, dip it in either starch or honey; we use the
latter because it is handier. One corner of the tool
should go clear down to the wood, at the last stroke to
make a “sure thing” of it. The foundation should reach

GUIDE COMBS, AND COMB FOUNDATION. 111

within 1 inch of the end bars, and within 2 as a general
rule, of the bottom bar. This space is needed to allow
the sheets to stretch as it is being worked out, which
it always does more or less. Some lots of wax will
stretch scarcely perceptibly, while others will to the
extent we have mentioned ; and as it is desirable to have
the sheet hang clear of the bottom bar when the cells
are drawn out full length, we think best to give the
amount of space below we have mentioned.

“The reason is, that the combs will bulge if there is any
stretching after they have touched the bottom bar. To
put the sheets in rapidly, you will need a board cut so
as to just fit inside the frame, and reach up as far as the
comb guide. Lay the sheet on this, close up to the top
bar, and stroke it down to the comb guide, as we have
directed. If your frames are made without a comb
guide, you can fasten the sheet to the top bar in the
same way, and then give it a quarter turn, so that it will
hang straight down. As fast as the frames are filled
they should be hung in a hive, to be secure from
injury. If you do not make the above plan work to suit
you, you can fasten the sheets by tacking a strip of
wood about 4 by Zinto the top bar, while the upper
edge of the sheet is between them ; this strip should be
put on in such a way that the foundation hangs straight
down under the centre of the top bar.”

Another way, as given in ‘Kings Text Book, is to lay
the frames bottom upwards on a table, placing the wax
sheet on the top bar, so that its edge comes nearly
across it. Now take a screw-driver or piece of smooth
firm iron, and rub it down hard to the wood until it
adheres all along. One corner of the iron should go
clear down to the wood at the finishing stroke. On this
tack a small thin strip of wood into the top bar, so placed

112 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

that when the sheet is bent up against it, it hangs in the
centre of the frame. If the iron rubber be dipped in
honey or starch it will not stick to the wax in rubbing.

When a sheet or strip of this impressed wax is pro-
perly fixed to the bar, it is certain to be the guide and
foundation of a straight comb. It is not necessary,
although advantageous, that the sheet should be, when
fixed, the whole perpendicular height of the comb;
unless we desire a particular sized cell; given a fair start
of 3 or 4 inches, the Bees will continue in the same line
to the bottom of the frame. For supers, 2 or 3 inches
will be found sufficient, and will dispense with the
necessity of fixing natural decoy combs. To wax
sheets the Scotch Apiarians owe the remarkable and
beautiful regularity of their show supers in Stewarton
boxes.

“SUPERS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT.

SUPERS are receptacles intended to be placed on the
top of the hive, for the Bees to store their surplus honey
in, and in a great measure to prevent the necessity of
swarming.

The quantity and quality of the honey obtained in
his supers shows the skill of the Bee-master. Nothing
looks cleaner, or could be handsomer as a breakfast-table
ornament, than a bright bell-glass, on an appropriate
stand, well filled with luscious golden honey. At the
Manchester F:xhibition of 1873, a glass model of the
Crystal Palace appeared filled with 85 pounds of comb
and honey ; and in 1863, that veteran Bee-master, Mr.
George Fox, of Kingsbridge, Devonshire, obtained from

SUPERS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT. 113

two hives glass supers of pure honeycomb, weighing
respectively 109} and 112 pounds net. As examples
of what skilful management can do such results are
invaluable, but for commercial purposes large supers are
a great mistake. This was sensibly brought home to my
mind at the two Crystal Palace Exhibitions in which I
had a large share of the management. Many magnificent
supers there shown were all but unsaleable, because of
their size. No private person cared to buy half a hundred
‘weight of honeycomb, and dealers avoided it, for the
‘reason that it could not be retailed economically, in
consequence of the waste and mess when cut. The
Americans had discovered this flaw in Bee culture before
we did, and seeing this, I immediately took steps to
import and introduce to English Bee-keepers examples
of sectional supers, which have been readily adopted
by advanced Apiarians. English hive-makers, in manu-
facturing sectional supers, have almost invariably over-
looked some of the chief advantages of the American
patterns, notably their weight and cost. The former
should be so small that the supers may be weighed with
the honey, and elicit no comment from the purchaser.
Strength and fine workmanship are quite secondary
considerations, as they are never intended to be used
twice. At the Bee Shows of 1878 many of these sectional
boxes were shown filled with beautifully clean honey-
comb, and where ever they appeared found ready pur-
chasers at high prices. So well was this fact demon-
strated, that Bee-masters are pretty well agreed that
the days of large supers are past, and a new era opened
for all those who are ready to move with the times,
The enterprizing Yankees so quickly awoke to the fact
of England’s short-comings in regard to marketable

honey, that before four months had elapsed from this
I

114 * A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

Show no less than 80 tons of honey in sectional supers
was imported into England! Wake up! English Bee-
keepers, and don’t buy what you yourselves can produce!
As I cannot yet expect all persons to agree with me,
before describing these handy little boxes in detail, I
must notice one of the best of the larger forms.

For frame hives, square supers—a combination of
wood and glass—are very suitable, and are easily made
by any handy man, and I give a description of the one
which obtained the prize at the Crystal Palace as the
best and cheapest super for general use. They are made
and sold by James Lee, of Bagshot, at 5s. 6d. per pair ;
and each holds, when filled, about 18 pounds of honey.

It has very much the appearance of the original
Woodbury super, having wooden framework with glass
panels; it is 13 inches square and 4 inches deep, and
fitted with seven bars. Its construction is a marvel of
ingenuity. Made almost entirely by means of a circular
saw, every one of its parts is cut to a mathematical
nicety, so that they fit each other with great precision,
and are all interchangeable with the parts of other supers
of the kind. It is composed of two square frames and
four ingeniously constructed pillars, each of which is a
study in itself; one of the frames is laid upon the table,
with the rabbeted side upwards, and a pillar is pressed
on to each corner; the glass is then slid into grooves in
the pillars, and rabbets in the bottom frame; the top
frame is then pressed on to the pillars, and the super is
ready to receive the waxed bars, in fact is practically
complete, and may be readily taken to pieces. The
advantage gained by supers being made to take to
pieces is that the honeycomb may be easily cut out for
use.

Of course supers may be made of any size, shape, or

SUPERS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT. 115

material ; the two latter mattering little to the Bees, but
much to the commercial value of the honey, whether it
is stored in a clean tempting receptacle, or a dirty box.
A very strong stock in a favourable season will fill one
holding 80 or 100 pounds, and it exhibits the skill of the
Bee-master to supply the maximum size that the Bees
will fill with sealed comb, as a half-filled super looks
very bad.

It is questionable if our Scotch neighbours, who work
with the Stewarton hives, are not the wisest; they being
content to obtain a number of small full boxes rather
than attempt one large one, which will very likely prove
a failure as to completeness.

All supers should be supplied with bottom-boards
of their own, to be removed with the super; they need
only be made of the thinnest material. Admission from
the hive should be given by two narrow slits, correspond-
ing to similar slits in the crown-board ; these are prefer-
able to a central hole, through which the Queen is apt
to stray and spoil the contents of the super by breeding
therein. Care must be taken to furnish the interior with
clean decoy comb or wax sheets, also to well wrap up the
super with some warm material, such as felt, flannel, &c.,
as the Bees will mostly reject a cold unfurnished apart-
ment. Whatever supers (except bell glasses) are used, it
is advisable that they be furnished with bars or frames for
convenience in removing the honey, otherwise in cutting
the combs out much damage and waste are incurred.
When using bell-glasses for supers it becomes necessary
to furnish the Bees with some kind of ladder by which
they can reach the top, for they cannot readily run up
the glass sides; a piece of clean empty comb is best, but
many persons use a small clean piece of wood, generally
shaped as across. Bees are more reluctant to fill glasses

12

116 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

than straw or wood supers, and the former require warm
wrapping up to ensure success.

When it is desired to use square supers, or bell-glasses,
or straw skeps, a wooden platform, as a stand, must be
placed on the top of the skep. If the hive is flat-topped
it will be sufficient to fasten the wooden stands by means
of four long screws through the wood into the hive, but
if the hive has a dome top it must first be levelled by
means of stiff clay, mortar, or some such material.

To exclude the Queen from supers where she might
lay eggs, and so spoil the honey, recourse has been had
to the interposition of a sheet of perforated zinc between
the super and the hive, the perforations having a
diameter of 5-32nds of an inch, permits the passage of
the Workers, but not the Queen.

SECTIONAL SUPERS.—These, as I have before said,
are the honey receptacles of the future. The little boxes
which I had the pleasure of introducing to English
Bee-keepers, and for which I had awarded to me the
medal of the British Bee-keepers’ Association, are those
figured in the American periodical, ‘Gleanings in Bee-
culture, arid made by its editor, Mr. Root; they are
used generally fitted into frames either in the upper (or
super chamber) or in the main stock hive as end combs.
The dimensions of the boxes in question are 44 + 41 + 2
inches, and hold, when filled, 1lb. of honeycomb; the
frames to contain these sections should be 2 inches
broad, and the common frame in America, the Langs-
troth, holds just 8; these dimensions are not at all
material, and the boxes may be made of any useful size
to fill the frame.

Sectional supers require to be fitted with a triangular
piece of comb foundation, to be presently described ;
sometimes a saw-cut is made nearly through the centre

SUPERS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT. 117

of the top bar: the wood is bent backwards in such a
way as to open the saw-cut: the edge of the sheet is
inserted, the cut closed, and all is secure. The founda-
tion may also be fixed in the same manner as described
for the frames. It is a debatable point whether the too
free use of the wax sheets for honeycomb which is to
be eaten is not inadvisable; some say the comb manu-
factured on it has a toughness ; others maintain it to be
none the worse than comb made from the Bees’ natural
sources. Experience will teach. The use of these
sections with us is yet in its infancy, but in America
for several years past ingenuity has been taxed to devise
the best form; some have been manufactured of a very
ornamental character, but I think experience is gradually

proving that the simplest is the best both for the pro-
ducers and consumers.

Fig. 46.

Fig. 45 shows a complete section box, and Fig. 46 one
of the broad frames containing eight of these. These
section frames are made the same width as the sections,
that is, 2 inches at the top,and 12 at the bottom. When
in position they occupy the two ends of the hive, the
difference in width at the bottom allowing the Bees free
passage between them; they cannot strictly be called
“supers,” but in this position the Queen will not fre-
quently use them for breeding purposes, if care be taken
that she has empty breeding-combs near the centre of
the hive. Bees store honey more rapidly in the brood-

118 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

hive than in the super, but they will seal it more rapidly
in the latter.*

For the super, or upper story of the hive, the sections
are placed in a case as Fig. 47, which holds three—in the

Fig. 47.

figure, two are in position furnished with guide comb;
the third space is empty, to show the position of the tin
separator behind. These separators are a sheet of tin,
placed between each case of sections, either in the super
or brood hive, to prevent the Bees building their combs
of varying thicknesses. By this contrivance the whole of
the comb is kept within the box, which is, of course, a
great desideratum in packing, as they can be laid close
together without crushing. The case is made of the
same material and in the same way as the sections them-
selves ; it is three times as long, and just high enough
for the sections to slip inside, and a sheet of tin 14 inches
by 20 inches makes six separators. Both cases and
separators may be used again and again, and they serve
to keep the sections clean. Propolis may be washed off
them when not in use by boiling in weak lye. The ends of
the tin are bent at right angles, and sprung on to the case
as shown in the figure, or may be dropped into a shallow
notch, or lightly bradded on. Thus furnished, these
cases are put side by side right into the frames without
the interposition of any crown-board. As many should

+ A clever manager will so arrange that the Bees shall start and fill the

section boxes in the brood chamber, and they may be afterwards removed to
the super to seal over—empty boxes, as before, being put in their places.

SUPERS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT. 119

be put on as will cover the top of the hive and allow the
roof to close down; and when these are nearly full a
second story of them may be added underneath the
others, raising up the first lot for this purpose. By this
practice the Bees readily commence on the second lot,
thus preventing the difficulty often experienced in get-
ting Bees to work in empty supers when their full ones
are removed, as by the time the upper tier of boxes are
capped over the lower one will probably be half full. If
the Bec-keeper prefers it, any full sections may be
removed as they are ready, their places being filled with
a fresh box. The outside sections may be closed with a
slip of glass through which the progress of work may be
viewed. The whole should be warmly covered up, for
Bees will not fill supers that are cold. When it is
wished to examine the supers, a few puffs of smoke
blown on to the top will drive all the Bees below.

The section boxes are sold with the honey, and as
they weigh but little over an ounce, are weighed and
sold in the same manner as is the paper with sugar.

SHIPPING AND RETAILING CASE FOR COMB HONEY.

The filled sections are sent to market (sometimes neatly
glazed on all sides) in a crate or case, as Fig. 48.

120 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

This contains 48 of the tlb. sections, and, so far as
experience goes, may be sent safely anywhere by ordi-
nary carriers without injury, for the men can see what it
is. The crate, if kept clean, and treated to a coat of new.
paint occasionally, makes a very pretty case for retailing
from, for the grocer has his honey neatly cased, and
always in plain sight, and when a cake is sold, all he has
to do is to raise the cover, and hand it out.

Such sectional supers as I have described are made by
machinery, and sold in America any size up to2 + 5 + 5
for about 25s. per thousand, and should be made for
something near the same price here. Until they are
so, I would advise Bee-keepers to club. together and
import such as they require.

Much of the success in obtaining honey in supers
depends on the hive on which the supers are placed. It
is very difficult to give a date when this should be done,
so much depends on the condition of the stock and the
weather. It is not well to put the supers on too early,
and still worse, too late; the happy moment should be
when the Bees have just begun to find more room is re-
quired. If they become fully alive to this fact, they are
apt to start Queen cells, when the supers will be neglect-
ed, unless the Bee-master can wholly excise the royal
cells. Should the end of April be warm, and the Bees
busy, as a rule we should supply all strong hives with
increased accommodation, as often from the late fruit-
blossoms we may reap an early harvest. After the fruit
and whitethorn blossoms have fallen there is generally an
interregnum of a few weeks when supers will not be
readily commenced, but in June we may fairly expect to
get our main harvest well in progress, and at this time
the Bees, both for swarming and honey-gathering, require
our greatest attention.

A super should have interposed between it and the

THE HONEY-EXTRACTOR OR SLINGER. 121

crown-board of the hive a floor-board (or, as it is gener-
ally called, an adapting board) of its own to be removed
with it ; it may be severed from the attachments of the
combs by a thin wire or string. When removed the
super will probably be thickly populated with Bees, who
will be reluctant to leave; if a Bee-trap be used, their
riddance is easy, but in default of that appliance, some
trouble will be found. If the combs be on bars or frames,
remove them one at a time, and brush the Bees off; but
if they be fixed as they would be in a glass, remove it,
turn it up, and many Bees will fly home. It had better
then be covered up for a short time secure from robbers,
again turned up, and more will go; repeat this until
clear, or if it be taken into a room the Bees will fly to
the window, which may be afterwards opened to give
them exit. Some instructions on this subject will also
be found under the head of Drone and Bee Traps.

Should any breeding have taken place in the super,
search must be made for the Queen; if she be found she
must be returned at once to the hive.

THE HONEY-EXTRACTOR OR SLINGER.

THIS is a modern invention borrowed from the
Germans, improved in America, and still further in
England. The figure illustrates the machine for which
the first prize was awarded to Mr. Cowan at the 1876
Bee Show, and it will give a good idea of the in-
strument, so that I will merely say that the can is
made of galvanized iron, 20 inches in diameter, by
24 in height, and forms a fixed reservoir, with an outlet
closed by a treacle valve near the bottom, intended
to let out the honey when extracted. Within the reser-
voir is a revolving four-sided frame of wire-work,

122 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

held in place by a central spindle working in the
bottom of the can, and the frame of the top. The turn-
ing of the handle gives motion, which sets the inter-
nal wire-frame revolving. The machine is chiefly appli-
cable to frame hives; full honeycombs with their frames
are taken from the hive, the Bees smartly shaken or
brushed off, then if the honey cells are sealed, they are
carefully shaved off with a bent knife heated in hot

Fig. 49.

water. The frames are placed in the wire cage of the
machine; a few turns of the handle and the honey is by
centrifugal force whirled from the outer side of the combs
into the can: when one side of the comb is emptied, the
wire cages may be reversed without removal, and so bring
the second side of the comb to the outside, when a few
more turns of the handle will empty that. Every un-
capped cell will now be found drained of its honey, and
the frames may be at once returned to the Bees to refill.

THE HONEY-EXTRACTOR OR SLINGER. 123

The machine requires a little practice before the greatest
amount of skill is acquired, after which it will be found
to do wonders. Experience soon teaches how to give
just that amount of speed which will throw out the
honey and not the brood, should any be there, and by a
little contrivance, pieces of combs out of frames can be
emptied. The acquisition of this appliance is a step in
the right direction to get the greatest possible amount
of profit from the Bees, at the smallest possible ex-
penditure of Bee labour; and I will now show how
the extractor helps us here. In the midst of honey-
gathering it is often found that the Bees wl not
work in the super, charm we ever so well; therefore,
they hang out idle. We remedy this by taking out
a few combs, emptying and returning them, when a
general ardour is created to fill them again. In the
midst of summer and a good honey season, Bees will some-
times gather so much that every available cell is filled.
The poor Queen cannot find a place to lay her eggs,
so suffers in her health, and the contingencies of Bee life
being many in the busy season, the stock absolutely
dwindles, and perhaps dies subsequently, from nothing
else than over prosperity. The danger of such a state
of things being discovered, the extractor provides an
immediate remedy as in the former case. If the
emptied combs are placed in the middle of the brood
nest, the Queen immediately fills them with eggs at an
astonishing rate. Thus also breeding may be at any
time encouraged by empty combs placed in the centre
of the hive, as will be further explained. I heard avery
practical Bee-keeper remark that he deprived his Bees
of aé/ their stores, for which he could get Is. or Is. 6d.
per pound, and returned his labourers for their winter
sustenance, sugar syrup, which cost him not more

124 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

than 3d. per pound; it answered quite as well, and
indeed went further.

Our American cousins, from whom we get many
valuable Apiarian hints, commonly manage their Bees
thus: Two strong stocks are selected which we will call A
and B; from B all the Bees with their Queen are driven,
making a strong new swarm ; the hive, with its combs
full of brood in all stages, minus its floor-board, is then
placed on A, which has previously had its crown-board
removed, and an adapter substituted. The Bees of A
immediately take possession of B, hatch out all brood,
while the Queen remaining in the lower hive still keeps
breeding, and the immense population thus formed
quickly fill the emptied combs of the upper hive with
honey, which, as fast as filled, or nearly so, are emptied
by the extractor, and returned; by this means a very
large harvest is obtained, which has amounted to as
much as 600 pounds from a single hive. Wax is a
product made by the Bees from honey, and it is said
that it takes 20 pounds or more of honey to make one
pound of wax; therefore every pound of comb saved
for the Bees represents at least 20 pounds more honey
to be harvested. Now it is quite a mistake to imagine
that old combs, that is to say, up to three or four years
old, are useless except to melt down. For breeding
purposes they are quite as good as new; and, indeed,
when the Bee-keeper handles his combs much, they are
better, being tougher. I would quite as soon have my
hives furnished with old combs as new. By the use of
the extractor, therefore, we get all the honey and save
the combs ; and it will be found where a hive full of clean
combs can be given to a swarm, they get a start in life
for which they will amply make returns.

When the Bees are busy gathering honey the extractor

THE HONEY-EXTRACTOR OR SLINGER. 125

may be used in the open air without much trouble, but
at other times the operation must be peformed under
cover, or at least not very near the hives, or the Bees will
soon find out the prize to be recovered and interrupt
operations. The following instructions given by Mr.
Root are short and to the purpose. “The best time is
when they are busy in the fields, and if the yield is good,
you will hardly need any smoke. Carefully remove a
frame from the hive, and then with a series of sudden
jerks shake the Bees in front of the hive or on top of the
frames, as you may find most convenient. When you
have shaken off as many as you can, take a bunch of
asparagus tops, and gently brush off every Bee in front
of the hive. Now with the honey-knife carefully cut the

cappings from all capped cells: to do this quickly you
will slide the knife under the caps in such a way as to
have them come off in one entire sheet. When the
comb is uncapped it is to be placed in the Extractor ;
although you can extract one comb at a time if you
chose, it is much better to have two, as they then balance
each other, and the friction is less on the bearings. Turn
just fast enough (and no faster) to throw out the honey,
and there will be no danger of throwing out the brood ;
you will soon learn this by practice. Combs so full of
brood that there is but little room for honey had better

126 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

be left in the hive; there is little to be gained by working
very close, and should the honey season suddenly close,
there is danger of the Bees starving, as we have known
them to do, even in July.

“If your hives are kept close’ to the ground, and no
weeds allowed to grow around the entrances, there is
very little danger of losing Queens while extracting, yet
it is a very good plan to keep them carefully in mind,
and if you should not see them, we think it a little
safer to shake the combs that contain much brood, so
that the Bees fall directly into the hive.

“ After the honey is taken'from one side of the comb it
is, of course, to be turned, and the honey taken from the
other side. When the combs are very heavy and the
honey very thick, it may be best to throw it out only
partially the first time, and then reverse, to avoid crushing
the combs into the wire cloth by the great centrifugal
force resulting from such a weight moving at a rapid
speed.”

QUEEN CAGES.

BEES, on losing or being deprived of their Queen, will
not with any certainty accept a stranger without some
precaution ; on the contrary, will often slay her forth-
with ; but it is found in practice that if a Queen be
confined some twenty-four or more hours amongst the
Workers the regicidal tendency abates, and love and
reverence succeed to hatred, if the Queen be in a fertile
condition. An infertile Queen is not readily accepted,
instinct seemingly acquainting the Bees that she is
useless. The prudent Bee-master, therefore never intro-
duces a new Ligurian, or other Queen, without tem-

, QUEEN CAGES. 127

porarily confining her. In strengthening stocks by the
addition of other Bees, it is also advisable to secure the
reigning Queen for a day or two as a precautionary
measure against the malice of the strangers. For this
purpose cages of various patterns are used.

The most simple form is that of a coarse wire gauze cup,

GOrinns
ORR
WAY

SEA

MAS

Fig. 32,

with a }-inch tin margin soldered on, as Fig. 52. The
Queen, with or without a few of her own Workers, is placed
therein, a card slipped underneath to keep her there, and
then transferred to the comb where it is desired to fix it.
The card being now withdrawn, the cage is gently
pressed down with a screwing motion into the comb as
far as the bottom of the cell, there to remain the neces-
sary time. It is advisable, if practicable, to tie it there,
as the Bees, in their anxiety to get at the new Queen,
will sometimes undermine and hoist it up, when the
Queen may get out too soon, perhaps meeting an execu-
tioner. In fixing this cage, select a comb near the
centre of the hive where there is some honey, so that
her majesty may have food at hand. This is not abso-
lutely essential, and in straw skeps the cage may be fixed
on the bung at the top, care being taken that there is
sufficient space beneath when replaced for the Bees to
crowd about it.

Mr. W. Carr has invented a very simple and perfect
Queen cage which any mere novice can ‘make in a few

128 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

minutes. He thus describes it: “It is made of per-
forated zinc, and measures 12 inches long, 1 inch wide,

Wo ll
‘ial f I
qt at it

suite

hut

ll
(or |
i i
ll lt

aN f

ih i
Fig. 53.

i | ‘
I

and 1 inch deep. One side of the
cage has an opening (A) 1 inch long
and 3-8ths of an inch wide, and
this is covered with a flat door (B)
sliding over it on the inside, with
a piece of wire (C) about 12 inches
long fastened to the top of the door
to draw it up; D is the open side
of the cage to be pressed into the
comb. ‘The cage is intended to be
lowered down from an opening at
the top of the hive into the centre
of the brood-nest; and after the
Queen has been confined the neces-
sary time, the wire is to be gently
pulled, which will open the door,
allowing the Queen to walk out
without disturbance. The cage
may be removed a day or two
afterwards. Many Bee-keepers dis-
countenance the use of zinc, on the
ground that it is injurious to the
Bees. I question, however, if this
objection be well founded with
ordinary care in cleaning.”

The cage invented by the well-
known Apiarian, “A Renfrewshire
Bee-keeper,” which obtained the

prize at the Crystal Palace Show, is thus described by

him.

“It is formed from wire net, 2 inches deep by 11
wide, and 3-8ths in thickness, the top of the same

QUEEN CAGES. 129

material and projecting 1-8th part all round as a flange, to
prevent slipping too far between the combs. The door of
wire forms the bottom of the
cage, and is opened and closed
by means of a wire passing
up either corner in front, and
wrought through the top. In
some there is a circular hole
on top with movable cover,
for introducing the Queen to
the cage. But to any, saving
the merest nervous novice, the
space between the wires at
bottom is amply sufficient for
the admittance of the royal
person. Some are circular
for bung-holes in common
straw skeps; but I give the Fig. 54.
preference to those of the flat form, as they fit the exact
space between the combs of any hive. Some, for ap-
pearance sake, are constructed of copper wire net; and
some, to prevent the rusting of the iron wire, are
japanned ; but they could be made of galvanized wire.

“ Advantages —From its thickness it fits the unvary-
ing width of space between the combs of all hives alike.
The flange portion on top, resting on the frames or bars,
prevents it slipping into the hive. In hives possessing
slides it is only necessary to divide a central one, draw-
ing the outer portion sufficiently to receive the cage.
The Queen is to be admitted to the cage through the
aperture between the central wires at bottom, while
the operator holds it inverted, with the door open, in his
left hand, the forefinger and thumb of which cuts off

her retreat sideways; she is then shut in, and the cage
K

a
i
tT

ie ee

130 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

suspended in the hive. On the lapse of the requisite
time (third day) the Queen is liberated by simply press-
ing the top of the wire downwards, which throws the
door open, converting it into a gangway, by which she
walks forth to meet the attendants who have been feed-
ing her, and are familiar with her presence; they form
her body-guard, and the risk of encasement is reduced
to the minimum. With all cages stuck into the combs,
the Queen can only be set free after the hive has been
opened up, and the Workers, being newly and thoroughly
disturbed, are in their most irritable mood. Should the
pipe cover cage set in a bung-hole be employed, it is
requisite to draw it out and invert it, the attendants
clinging to the bottom of the cage are transferred to
the outside of the hive, and the Queen is forced to
stem the upward stream of stranger Bees trying to
force their exit. This cage permits the Queen to be
liberated without the smallest disturbance to the hive
generally.”

Bee-keepers are not agreed as to the time necessary
to keep Queens confined ; some think three days, others
are satisfied with one, and I have known six hours suffi-
cient, her majesty walking out in safety after the lapse
of that time. In using the wire cage of the Renfrewshire
Bee-keeper, it will be perceived that it is not thought
necessary to provide the Queen with any food; and I
and others have been so sceptical as to doubt that Bees
who are anxiously seeking an opportunity to destroy
the Queen would yet feed her. That they will do so
occasionally is certain, but it is only when honey is freely
coming in; at other times they will ruthlessly let her
starve, therefore it is safest to cage her majesty on some
full honey-cells. Failures in introducing Queens will
now and then occur whatever care be used, and they

QUEEN CAGES. 131

must not always be attributed to the cage. There are
many more varieties of Queen cages in use, and, of
course, there is no reason why any Bee-keeper should
not make modifications to suit his own case or fancy;
but the patterns described will illustrate the principal
systems in practice. Releasing the Queen in the dark
without disturbance has its advantages, but I prefer to
watch her majesty’s reception by her new subjects, as it
is often possible to prevent a regicidal attack, as is
described under the head of “ Ligurianizing ’—there
is too much trusting to chance where the door of the
prison is simply opened and the prisoner left to her fate;
but where the Bee-keeper is at all timid, of course the
cage that may be opened from the outside is preferable.
The simple cup and Mr. Carr’s cages will occasionally
be found useful to cover ripe Queen-cells in order that
the destruction of the young unhatched Queens may be
prevented. When two Queens meet, a duel is most
likely to occur. Like two gladiateurs, each first takes a
good look at her antagonist, then rush to the fight; they
seize each other by legs and mouth, making, with curved
abdomen, every effort to insert the sting between the
rings of the other’s body ; they wrestle thus, rolling over
and over until one succeeds in giving the deadly stroke.
It has been stated that if they get in such a position
that both are likely to be stung together, they will sepa-
rate and commence the fight anew.

‘‘With mighty souls in narrow bodies prest
They challenge and encounter, breast to breast,
So fixed on fame, unknowing how to fly,
And ultimately bent to win or die ;
That long the dreadful combat they maintain
>Till one prevails (for one alone can reign).”—VIRGIL.

It is not, however, from the personal animosity of the
K 2

132 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

reigning Queen that a stranger has most to dread, but
from the vengeance of the Worker Bees, who are more
often the assailants and executioners of the intruder.

FEEDERS AND FEEDING.

MUCH ingenuity has been exercised in designing an
apparatus for feeding Bees, but they may all give place
to a simple bottle, which I think most Bee-keepers of
experience use; and, therefore, as the main appliance
answering every purpose, I shall describe no other,
simply illustrating the best manner to use that. In the
first place the bottle selected should be of a squat shape,
with a wide mouth; in default of better, pickle-bottles
answer admirably. The capacity should be one or two
pints; this is filled with syrup, tied over with a double
fold of net or leno, and inverted perfectly upright over
the feeding-hole, or without the net, covered with a piece
of perforated zinc, and then used in the same manner ;
there being no vent, of course the liquid remains in its
reservoir, unless sucked out, which the Bees are not
backward in doing; a strong stock will, when active,
take in and store one or two quarts in 24 hours, but it is
not always desirable to allow them unlimited provender ;
to control this Mr. F. Cheshire has introduced a simple
contrivance by which the supply may be regulated to
the Bees, with the greatest nicety. A plate of vulcanite
(but tin or zinc will do as well) is fixed upon the hive
board by a screw (A), to receive which a hole is first
made in the vulcanite with a red-hot wire.

FEEDERS AND FEEDING. 133

The central circle represents the feed-hole of the
crown-board, which should be situated exactly between

Fig. §5-

A and B; the latter, a locksmith’s screw or drawing pin,
is placed so that its head laps over the edge of the plate
and holds it in position, while it permits its rotation as
far as the stops ¢ and f. The plate is pierced, as per
pattern in figure, by a heated knitting-needle, the burrs
removed by scraping, and the under side roughened by
a sharp knife, so that the Bees may have foothold, If
the whole has been arranged as described, and the feed-
ing stage turned until the stop f touches the screw B,
the circle on the right will be over the aperture in the
crown-board, and as this circle contains no holes, the
Bees, although the bottle may be on, will get no food;
but if the stage be now slowly turned back again, the
hole ¢ will pass over the feed-hole, allowing only one
Bee to regale herself at a time; a further movement,
and d@ is reachable from beneath, next the hole near the

134 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

edges of the left hand circle, allowing two and then
three Bees to sip at our sweets, and as the plate turns,
hole after hole comes into position until the maximum
is reached, when the stop at ¢ arrests the revolution of
the vulcanite. For liquid food the bottle and feeding
stage are all that can be desired; no one at all pretend-
ing to improved Bee-keeping will suffer a hive to exist
in his Apiary without a hole in the crown; if not origin-
ally there, let it be cut, and a small square of wood fixed
on the top with plaster of Paris will give a level stage
on which to stand the
bottle, of course not
forgetting to cut the
corresponding round
hole in the wood.
With the use of a per-
forated feeding-stage,
such as I have de-
scribed, it is not ne-
cessary to tie over the
mouth of the bottle,
or to use perforated
zinc, and as the stage is intended to be a fixture, the fol-
lowing little appliance is used to invert the full bottle
without spilling the syrup: Of zinc, tin or galvanised iron,
is made a small shovel, as in Fig. 56, about 4 inches
square, exactly after the model of an ordinary ash shovel
without the sifting holes. The bottle having been filled,
the shovel (concave side down) is placed on the mouth,
and the whole inverted and stood on the feeding-stage ;
when there, the shovel may be withdrawn, leaving the
syrup at the disposal of the Bees. If it be desired to
remove the bottle again before it is empty, all we have
to do is to slide the shovel under it and invert as

FEEDERS AND FEEDING. 135

before. If made strong enough, this little instrument
will also be found useful as a scraper to clean floor
boards, supers, &c.

FEEDING.—Having explained the means by which
food may be administered to Bees, I will now say
when, and in what quantity, it should be given. At the
time a swarm issues, the weather is generally fine; but
it sometimes happens a change takes place, and the
swarm having no stores, and not being able to gather
any, of necessity suffers. Such a contingency happen-
ing, the prudent and merciful Bee-keeper will give food
at once, not too fast, say half a pint of syrup per diem ;
if a superfluity be given, ,the swarm will occasionally
construct Drone combs to store it in, which is not desir-
able. Bees, when. they swarm, seem filled with an
uncontrollable impulse to build combs ; this is a neces-
sity of their future existence, and it is of the utmost
importance that the impulse should be fostered and
encouraged. The Queen cannot, of course, lay an egg
without a cell to put it in, and as she is capable at this
time of laying 2000 or 3000 each day, the waste to
their owners will be easily seen, should all these embryo
Bees be lost. Old stocks in the spring have their stores
at the lowest ebb; the winter’s consumption has not
been made good; and unless the prudent insects find
food is coming into the hive, no great amount of breed-
ing will take place. Of course the earlier Bees breed,
the sooner they will swarm or store in supers; and in a
great measure breeding may be induced at the will of
the Bee-master. As soon as the weather will allow in
the spring, every stock should be examined, and if
found deficient in food, it must ke administered. In
cold, damp weather, too much syrup is not good ; there
is no objection to sufficient being given for daily

136 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

consumption, but the Bees must not have enough given
to fill their combs, or the damp arising from it will very
likely cause dysentery, and if over supplied they will be
apt to store it in the centre combs, being the nearest,
and these are all just which should be left for the
Queen’s use. Barley sugar is a very good food for such
times, and may be given to the Bees either in a bottle,
or put into the hive, not too much at a time, or it may
liquify and form a trouble as well as waste. Barley
sugar, superior to that bought at confectioners, may be
made as follows, viz. :—

Break up three pounds of loaf sugar, place it in a
saucepan or preserving pan, and pour half a pint of cold
water upon it and half a wine-glass full of vinegar ; these
are all the ingredients required. Prepare a fire in a
grate, the top bar of which will let down in a similar way
to that in an ordinary kitchen grate, taking care, how-
ever, that at the commencement of the operation the bar
is up in its place, and the grate full to the top with
glowing cinders or wood embers, so that a great heat
may be obtained without any flame. The saucepan con-
taining the sugar place upon the fire and stir it without
ceasing. In a few minutes it will begin to assume the
character of dirty broth, which will have anything but a
nice appearance, but presently a thick scum will rise, and
the mass will try to boil over. As soon as this is ob-
served, the saucepan should be removed from the fire
until the ingredients have cooled a little, when it should
be set on the grate again in such a way that only a
small part of it is over the fire; the boiling will then go
on on the exposed side; and, as the ebullition takes
place, the scum will be forced to the side not over the
fire, whence it may easily be removed with a spoon.
Thus the saucepan is held in the left hand, the spoon in

FEEDING AND FEEDERS. 137

the right, and the saucepan being on the left-hand side
of the grate, with its right side exposed to the action of
the fire, the scum will retreat to the left or cooler side,
and will be in the handiest position for removal, as will
be evident in a few minutes to any one trying it. After
a quarter of an hour of this treatment, the mixture will
have become in a great degree clarified, when it should
be removed from the fire, while the top bar of the grate
is let down so as to permit of its nearer approach to a
greater heat. Should there be any irregularity of the
fire it should now be corrected, but flame should be
prevented, as the mixture having parted with its water
will be liable to take fire if brought into contact with
flame. It will be well here to remark, that so long as
the scum remained on the syrup, there was a tendency
in the whole to boil over, since the water evolved in the
form of steam, while the boiling was going on accumu-
lating in a body, would lift the scum above the saucepan
to enable it to escape; but when the scum was gone, the
water would be evolved in bubbles of steam, which
would crackle, but not boil over, unless a very intense
heat were applied. The duration of the boiling of the
clarified syrup, before it becomes liquid barley sugar,
will depend upon the amount of heat, and the conse-
quent evolution of the water, to which it is subjected ;
but trials may, from time to time, be made by dropping
a little on some cold surfaces to see if it becomes brittle,
and when that state is arrived at it isdone. Pour it into
a tin dish, set it in a dry, cool place until it becomes
hard, and then by striking the tin on its underside, the
whole of the barley sugar will be splintered into frag-
ments, when it may be placed in bottles and corked up
for use as required. As Bees require pollen, or its sub-
stitute, zeaZ, in addition to saccharine food, it is sometimes

138 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

supplied to them incorporated with the sugar. In making
the barley sugar as much as one-fourth or one-fifth by
weight of flour may be added, and carefully stirred in
when boiling.

Those who wish for early swarms and strong stocks
will do well to feed slowly in March or in April, even
although the stock has plenty of stores; one of Mr.
Cheshire’s feeding stages will be found an admirable aid
to effect this properly. The object aimed at should be
to afford a constant steady supply without a break ; if the
stage be used, as much as the Bees can suck through
two or three holes will be sufficient, this will be perhaps
one-third or one-fourth of a pint daily; so long as this
supply be kept up, so long will the Queen lay, and the
Bees tend the young; du¢ if the supply be stopped for
a day or two, and nothing comes in of Nature’s pro-
viding, the Bees will destroy all the young larve, and
even those almost ready to emerge, should famine
appear imminent. In May and June, when bad weather
succeeds a few fine weeks, the Bees may often be seen
carrying out their nearly mature young in thousands.
When feeding is continued during the day as well as
night, take care the supply is well protected against
robber Bees, or it will lead to fights and slaughter.

Bee-keepers often express astonishment that their
Bees, after wintering all right, die in the spring; the
cause is easily explainable: the stock had enough honey
to last the winter, but not sufficient to supply the large
demand of spring, when the young put in their claims on
the commonwealth.

When a stock has become very weak and impover-
ished, the Bees often display such lassitude that they do
not accept the proffered food; in this case they may be
excited by pouring into and amongst the cluster half

FEEDERS AND FEEDING. 139

a cupful or more of the syrup made warm: they will
then set to work cleaning one another, and gain strength
and inclination to make use of the remainder. Bees in
straw skeps may also be fed at other times by pouring
syrup in a fine stream into the combs; this will run into
the cells and be afterwards properly taken care of by the
Bees; the quantity given must be regulated by the
weather and other circumstances, bearing in mind the
caution I have given as to dysentery.

A small swarm, which if left to itself would infallibly
die, may be often built up into a moderately strong stock
by slow and judicious feeding, such as I have described
for spring stimulation. The regularity of a small supply
will induce the Bees to build Worker comb, and as fast
as built, the Queen will stock it with eggs. If too much
food be given it will be a misfortune, the cells being filled
with honey where should be brood. Autumn feeding
should be on a totally different plan to that I have been
writing of—then the one object is to get the Bees to
store enough in their hives to last the winter. Towards
the end of August every hive should be examined, and
such as do not contain at least 20 pounds of honey
should be fed until that weight be reached. The
weather being warm, the syrup will soon evaporate
sufficiently, so the Bees may be supplied as fast as they
can take it. A strong stock will have no difficulty in
storing away a quart of syrup in 24 hours. If the hive
be not fully supplied with combs, this liberality should
not be exercised, or too much Drone comb will be made,
which is not desirable; better by far first persuade the
Bees, by slow feeding, to make the comb, and then
give them the wherewith to fill it. It is a common
practice to obtain Bees by means of driving, either by gift
or purchase, from those who would otherwise destroy

140 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

them in the autumn for the sake of their stores. These
Bees, by slow feeding, may be induced to fill their hives
with combs and stores, but the experiment is trouble-
some and costly, and those who have other stocks would
find it better to join the poor castaways to their more
fortunate sisters, which will benefit all parties. Such a
beaten out stock of Bees would consume 30 to 40 pounds
of honey to bring them into a fit state to winter. Syrup,
as a Bee food, may be made as follows, and the present
low price of loaf sugar, which should alone be used (about
335. per cwt.), is a great advantage to the Bee-keeper, as
this article is undoubtedly the best for general feeding.
Ifa strong syrup be made of it by boiling with water,
the sugar will either recrystallize as the syrup cools, or
subsequently, as the water evaporates. If it be used in
this form it is liable to solidify, or, as the sugar-baker
calls it, grain, after it has been deposited in the cells by
the Bees ; should this happen, they will be unable to feed
upon it. This may be effectually prevented by adding
to the syrup while boiling a small quantity of vinegar.
The amount of vinegar necessary varies with its strength ;
but about a tablespoonful of that in general use will be
sufficient for 4 pounds of sugar, which will make with
two pints, or 40 ounces of water, a syrup of the right
consistency, and which should boil for 10 minutes after
the vinegar is added: 20 ounces of water measure a pint,
Rather more water may be used early in the season,
when the Bees are breeding rapidly, because they then
need a thinner syrup to prepare food for their young
than is required for store for winter consumption. After
preparing this food put a little of it upon a piece of
window-glass, when it should grow stiffer simply without
losing its transparency, as the water dries out of it. If
crystals are formed, and it becomes white and opaque, it

FEEDING AND FEEDERS. 14

must be reboiled with a little more vinegar. Instead of
vinegar, cream of tartar may be used, of which a quarter
of an ounce must be added to four pounds of sugar.
This food will at the present time cost about 2s. 8d.
per 14 pounds, or a little over 2d. per pound.

Honey is, of course, the most natural food to give to
Bees, but sugar syrup answers equally well, and is far less
valuable ; and, unless the source from which the honey
comes is known to be pure, there is a danger of intro-
ducing with it “ Foul-brood.” Foreign honey is said to
be very often contaminated by this plague. Those
using frame hives, where the frames are interchangeable,
will often be able so to arrange their combs as to save
much trouble in feeding. Some hives have more honey
than they require, therefore can part with a comb or two
to their poorer neighbour, and thus the stores may be
equalized.

POLLEN.

THERE is another food that Bees, when breeding, cannot
do without, that is ‘“ Pollen” or “ Bee Bread,” which, with
honey, is masticated by the workers, who form with it a
kind of chyle, which is supplied as food of the larvae.
There is seldom any absolute necessity for the Bee-keeper
to trouble about providing pollen, the Bees generally
having stored, or being able to gather, sufficient. But
the Americans and Germans have been in the habit of
supplying a substitute for this in meal. Dzierzon, early
in the spring, observed his Bees bringing home this
substance from a neighbouring mill before they could
procure a natural supply of pollen; and so, not losing
the lesson, it became a common practice to supply the

142 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

Bees early in the spring with this article. Shallow troughs
are set in front of the Apiaries, filled about 2 inches
deep with finely ground unbolted rye meal; and Langs-
troth says: “Thousands of Bees, when the weather is
favourable, resort eagerly to them, and, rolling them-
selves in the meal, return heavily laden to their hives.
In fine, mild weather, they labour at this work with
great industry, preferring the meal to the oéd pollen
stored in their combs—thus they breed early, and
rapidly recruit their numbers. The feeding is continued
until the blossoms furnishing a preferable article, they
cease to carry off the meal. The average consumption
of each colony is about two pounds.”

Taking this lesson from our neighbours, many of our
English Bee-keepers have during the last few years
supplied the Bees with such artificial pollen. Pea-meal
appears to be the favourite, which, placed in trays
sheltered from rain and wind, is on fine early spring days
eagerly carried off by the Bees, and it appears to answer
the purpose of natural pollen. In the collection of
pollen and of honey, Bees unconsciously perform a most
important office as agents in the fertilization of flowers,
by transferring the pollen from the stamens to the pistil.
Darwin, in his ‘ Origin of Species,’ says that red clover is
wholly fertilized by Humble Bees, and as in Australia
there are none of the right kind, there they can never
raise red clover seed. In many plants the stamens and
pistil are situate in separate blossoms, and even on
separate plants, and where they are contained in the
same flower self-fertilization is often difficult or im-
possible, sometimes by the relative position of the
stamens and pistil, sometimes by their not coming to
maturity at the same time. The Bees in seeking for
honey and pollen, carry the latter from flower to flower;

POLLEN. 143

by this means ensuring fertilization. It is a remarkable
fact, that in most cases Bees confine themselves in each
journey “to a single species of plant.” Thus the grand
law of Nature, forbidding the union of relatives, is carried
out by Bees, who by their visits from field to field, and
flower to;-flower, give fertility and vigour to vegetable life.
A good deal of pollen is carried home by the Bees, adher-
ing to their hairs and bodies, but the chief means of con-
veyance is the pollen baskets in their hind legs, where
it is packed by means of the middle legs. When fully
loaded the lumps of pollen are very conspicuous on the
Bees as they alight at the hive, within which they quickly
run, and arriving at the proper storage place, they stand
over the cell, with the legs so placed that on loosening
the loads with the middle legs the lump of pollen shall
fall into the cell. This happening, the Bee pushes it with
its head safely further in, and then sallies forth for more,
leaving to the Nurse Bees the job of ramming down the
pollen into a compact mass, which they do with their
heads. From the various colours of pollens so stored, the
successive layers in the cells have a very curious appear-
ance. When the cell is filled it receives a little honey
on the top, and then is capped with wax like the honey-
cells. Mr. Cheshire records how he mixed some flour
in a large tray with a considerable quantity of fine chaff,
placing in the corners the trimmings from a comb of
honey, the odour of which experience had taught him
would soon draw an appreciative crowd. The tray was
placed about Io A.M. in the midst of forty stocks, and on
returning in rather more than three hours, he was delight-
ed to find the tray, with its contents, almost hidden from
sight by hundreds of earnest Bees engaged in packing
the flour into the hollows in the legs, generally called the
pollen daskets, and strangely enough the pieces of combs,

144 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

although not nearly emptied of their honey, were receiv-
ing no attention. The chaff appeared to answer the
purpose of supplying the Bees with a resting-place, much
more satisfactorily than bran or any other material ‘yet
tried, and it is clear that in the mixture the chaff should
considerably preponderate. It was observed that where
only a small quantity of flour remained the Bees appeared
to work most comfortably. Diving in their heads, and
getting a dusting on the under side of the thorax, they
just rose upon their wings in order to gather up, and
duly stow away the supply, when they made a second
plunge, adding what was thus secured to the small pellets
already noticeable upon their legs. Another dive or two,
and the little rascals, fully loaded, flew away right merrily
to their hives. Pea-flour was now supplied, and was com-
menced upon immediately ; but did not,so far as could
be traced, attract the Bees more than that first given.
The most economical, probably the most useful, plan is,
to cover the bottom of the tray with the pollen substi-
tute to the depth of from half an inch to an inch, put
sufficient chaff over it to nearly cover it from view, then
slightly stir the surface. The chaff will continue to sink
as the food is removed, and afford thus during several
hours a convenient stage for the little foragers.

Mr. F. Sontag, a German Apiarian, says that he fed
one of his colonies with rye-meal placed in a hive in an
old comb, continuing the supply till they could obtain
fresh pollen abroad. This colony produced four strong
swarms that spring, and an adjoining stock not supplied
with the meal only one weak swarm.

DRONE AND BEE-TRAPS, 145

DRONE AND BEE-TRAPS.

THESE are sometimes of considerable service in an
Apiary, either to capture undesirable Drones or to clear
a super of Bees. Of the former kind the Drone trap
made by R. Aston, Newport, Salop, has been found very
useful, and is thus described by its maker.

Figure 57 represents it fixed to a Woodbury hive,

a 7 zi

Fig. §7. Fig. 58.
but it is only necessary to alter the shape of the zinc
bridge to make it fit the front of a straw skep. The
trap is left on until filled, or as long as is desirable; it
offers no hindrance to the Worker Bees, and should the
Queen stray into it, she would have to stay there until
released by her owner. 1 is a sectional view of the Drone
trap; 2 is a perforated zinc front with apertures 3-16ths
of an inch in diameter, which permits the exit of the
Worker Bees only ; 3 is an opening left at back to place
before a Bee-trap when fixed to a super, so as to catch its
Drones ; 4 is a glass tube down which the Drones march
freely into the cage, but cannot find their way back again ;
5 is a contrivance through which the Workers can pass
as ordinarily, but it has a strip of wood along its centre
which darkens the way and renders it less attractive

than it otherwise would be to the Drones; 7 is the zinc
e L

146 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

bridge which may be fitted to hives of a circular shape,
yet, when reversed, will be found equally serviceable for
plane-fronted hives. The trap is fixed to the hive by
the piece of zinc, No. 6, which is screwed to the floor-
board, and is held up by a support from the ground or
by two light strips of wood which are thrust under the
floor-board and catch two nails or pins in its sides.

There are several other Drone-traps in use, but the
principle of all is the same, z. e. to give the Workers free
egress and ingress, but the Drones only the former.
Workers can pass through an aperture 3-16ths of an inch
in diameter; Drones cannot.

What are generally known as Bee-traps, in contradis-
tinction to Dyone-traps, are intended principally for
clearing supers of the Bees when taken off the hive.

We will suppose the Bee-master has been successful,
and finds on his hive a well-filled super ; now comes the

i

soll
Fig. 59.

operation of removing it, and ridding it of the bees.
Many people find this last a formidable job, and some-
times make such a bungle of it that robbers are at-
tracted, to the loss of honey and beauty. My friend
Mr. Cheshire suggested a very simple and inexpensive
contrivance, which will be found very useful : he styles it
the five-pin Bee-trap. On this the Rev. J. L. Zabriskie
has made an improvement, which I will now describe.
The drawings are from the ‘ Bee-keepers’ Magazine,’ of
New York.

DRONE AND BEE-TRAPS. ° 147

The first requisite is a box (fig. 59), dark when closed,
and large enough to hold the super, or any number of
them ; holes three-quarters of an inch in diameter are
bored in the front of the box, and the traps, as fig. 59,
are hung or tacked over these holes. The trap is made of
a block of deal seven-eighths of an inch thick by three-
quarters wide and 24 inches long. Half the block is
chamfered or sawn off, as in the drawing, which will give
a sloping face to the block when in place. A quarter-
inch hole is bored through the middle of the block, and
two staples of wire, about the thickness of an ordinary
pin, are fastened one above the other below this hole.
The staples are inclined upward, and are of such a width
that a pin being dropped between from above can easily
traverse them, and yet they must be narrow enough to
prevent the head of the pin from slipping through, and
its body from being pushed sideways much beyond the
centre of the hole. A third square staple (fig. 60) is
placed close above the upper round staple, and its points
driven in until its horizontal part lies tightly against the

Fig. 60. Fig. 61.

face of the block. The head of the pin rests on this
square staple, and the metal surface relieves the slight
friction which sometimes might prevent the point of the
pin from dropping into its proper place.

L2

148 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

_ When the apparatus is in use the super is placed
within the box (of course in such a position that the Bees

Fig. 62.

can leave it), and the lid closed down. The imprisoned
Bees will soon be attracted to the only light—that which
comes through the traps ; here they will easily pass out,
one at a time, by pushing the pin outwards, which each
time drops, and effectually prevents the entrance of
robbers.

Traps are also made on the same principle, having thin
plates of talc or horn hung on a wire, and made to fall
like the perpendicular pin described above, such as
Aston’s Bee Trap. (Fig. 62.) In lieu of placing the
supers in a box, the super chamber of the hive might
be fitted with a Bee Trap (closed by a shutter when not
in use), then it would only be necessary to shut off the
communication with the hive below, and leave the Bees
to make their exit at their leisure.

QUIETING BEES. 149

QUIETING BEES.

‘* With sprinkled water first the city choke, '
And then pursue the citizens with smoke.” —VIRGIL.

WHEN performing any operations on Bees, either.
depriving them of their stores, making artificial swarms,
or transferring from one hive to another, as well as the
thousand and one things that an experimentalist finds
himself called upon to do, it becomes very desirable to
subdue the Bee’s anger, or so to manage that they shall
never become irate ; and many schemes have been pro-
posed for this purpose, but they have nearly all resolved
themselves into one grand solatium “Smoke.” Chloro-
form and burning fungus used to be the means practised,
but it was found that although they recovered from the
insensibility produced, the health of the Bees suffered—
so now “ Smoke” has taken their place.

To those persons who are smokers nothing is easier
than to light up a long clay pipe, give a good deep draw,
and while the smoke pours out freely, apply the small
end of the pipe to the hive’s entrance ; but with ladies,
and with those to whom the pipe is an abomination (as
it is with me), some other means must be adopted.

The instrument for which Mr. Cheshire obtained a
prize at the Crystal Palace, for its simplicity and utility
(Fig. 63), is formed of a simple briar-root tobacco-pipe,
costing about 6¢@,, which is partly filled with tobacco or
rags. A lighted fusee is dropped into the bowl, over
which a piece of India-rubber tube, one end of which is
plugged up, is placed as shown in the engraving ; then,
by alternately pressing and releasing the tube in the hand,
smoke will be driven out of the small end of the pipe,

150 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

and may be directed where desired. Another instru-
ment was invented by the Hon. and Rev. H. Bligh,

Fig. 63. Fig. 64.

either as a simple “Quieter,” or fumigator to insensi-
bility ; for the first purpose, the nozzle is removed and
the tobacco placed within it, then being replaced, the
working of the bellows will eject the smoke where
directed. For the latter purpose (seldom, in my opinion,
desirable) the tube is first fixed into a wooden delivery
pipe; the puff-ball torn in small pieces is then crowded
into the tube. A lighted vesuvian thrust into it, the
wooden mouth-piece inserted, and the instrument is ready
for use. The simplest smoker of all is a roll of cotton
rags, an inch or more in diameter, and rolled just tightly
enough to burn and not to blaze. At times a little
tobacco is sprinkled between the rags, and rolled up
with them; the great fault in these smokers is their con-
stant inclination to go out, so that ofttimes when most
required no smoke comes. In America they use instru-
ments so contrived that they will keep alight a long
time. There are three of note; known as the “ Quinby,”
“ Bingham,” and “ Novice’s” Smokers; they are all good,

QUIETING BEES. 151

and answer the purpose well. From ‘Gleanings in Bee
Culture, I extract a description of how to make one
of the last-mentioned, which, without saying it is the best,
will, I am sure, be found a very useful instrument.

Ajsoft smooth piece of sheep-skin, 2} inches wide,
and 22 inches long. Also two narrow strips, + inch
wide, and the same length as the above. Two boards
5 X 6 inches, and about 5-16ths thick, are all that is
necessary to make the bellows.

A strip of wood 4 inch wide, and the same thickness
as the boards, is securely bradded to one end of each
board, as shown in Fig. 1. These strips are somewhat
thinner at one edge, as shown.

Fig. 65.

Figure 2 shows the upper board, with a single 4 inch
hole bored near one end. Fig. 3 shows the two in place,
just ready to tack the leather on. The springs shown
at Fig. 1 are made of bits of clock spring, to be had
of any jeweller for a trifle. Bend the springs to the
shape shown in the cut, and rivet the end to the wood
by two secure rivets. Steel springs sometimes break, it
is true, and you can use similar ones made of brass, if
you choose ; these never break, but they almost alwavs
lose their elasticity sooner or later Those called alarm
springs are soft, which makes it easier to work the bel-
lows. Some prefer a stiff spring. Bend the springs so that
the boards will come up promptly, as far as the leather
will allow. To make a neat job, the leather should be

152 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

put on with tinned tacks, about 7-16 in length. Put the
boards as closely together at the end where the hinge is

Fig. 66.

as the two strips will allow them to come, and tack one
end of the long piece of leather. The boards should be
separated at the other ends as far as the width of the
leather will allow. Draw the latter close up to the wood,
and tack at intervals. Now tack the }-inch strip on for
a binding. When the tacks are all in (they should be
a little more than 34 inch apart), pare off the surplus
leather with a very sharp knife. Finish off everything
neatly with sandpaper, and the bellows is done, which
thus made should not cost more than one shilling, and
be as good as anything in the market, for this price.

As air flows more rapidly through an orifice that is
made smooth with the corners rounded off, the hole in
the upper board should be rounded off on the inside

QUIETING BEES. 153

corners, or, what is better, a short tin tube, with a slight
taper and the inside end made flaring, might be inserted ;
this may project through the board, } or 3 of an inch,
when you will find it blow right well, and will probably
look something like this:

= The bellows thus made
is merely to supply the air
to the smoker proper fixed
to its upper surface on the
nearly spherical form, as

Fig. 67. shown overleaf.

It is easy to build a fire in, and little liable to go
out. The obtuse nozzle is also easy to clean, and if the
fuel be cut small, it may be fed without taking off the cap
at all, which is desirable when the case is hot. The tin
cup, shown below, is 4 inches in diameter, and 2} high,
and the nozzle is made to shut closely over it. I prefer
about a 4-inch hole for the exit of smoke. It remains
now to show how to attach the whole to the bellows and
damper.

Fig. 4 represents the bottom of the smoker cup. The
large hole in the centre is to allow the blast of air to

Fig. 68.

come up through, and the smaller ones are for four
common screws that attach it to the bellows. To
prevent the fire from falling through the large hole, a
piece of tin is cut as seen within Fig. 5, and punched full

154 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

of holes, so as to leave a deep bur on the upper side.
This allows the blast to pass through, but no fire ever
gets down into the bellows. The holes in the extremities
just match those in Fig. 4, so that the same screws hold
it securely in place. Now the fire receptacle cannot be
screwed directly on to the wood, because the latter would
burn ; but it has been found by experiment that 3 inch
space, between the bottom and the wood, is all that is
needed, if the wood is first covered with a sheet of tin.
Accordingly, cut another plain piece of tin, exactly like
Fig. 4, holes and all; between the two, put short tin
tubes, made by rolling up short strips } inch wide. These
short tubes, shown at Fig, 7, are made so that a screw
will just go through them. One thing more, and all is
complete. The smoker burns so fiercely, that a damper
is required for it. This damper is made of a piece of tin,
cut in the shape shown at Fig. 6. When the smoker is
put together, the hole in the damper is put just over one
of the short tin tubes, and is thus held by one of these
same screws. When it closes the central hole in Fig. 4,
the end 6 is against one of the other tubes.

It has been suggested that the screws would get hot,
and burn the wood, but actual practice shows that the
small amount of heat that comes directly on their heads
only, never heats them at all. The constant stream of
cold air that is coming out and going in, between the
wood of the bellows and the tin cup, is probably one
reason why it never heats downward so as to affect the
bellows. The hole in the centre, Fig. 4, should be sunk
by a suitable punch, so as to more perfectly collect the
entire blast from the bellows.

The fuel for consumption in this smoker may be
rotten wood, rags, corduroy, brown paper, or almost any- ~
thing that will give off plenty of smoke ; perhaps rotten

QUIETING BEES. 155

wood is the most economical and preferable fuel. When
commencing operations on a stock of Bees, a puff of
smoke will be found a wonderful quieter—it should be
sent into the hive’s entrance or under the crown-board,
and the Bees then left alone for a few minutes—the
effect is extreme alarm, and in all such cases the Bees
rush to their honey-stores, and fill their honey-bags
against contingencies. Once filled they are harmless,
although of course a@// the Bees do not get into that state.
Ofttimes when operating on Bees it will be found ad-
vantageous to sprinkle them more or less with syrup;
if the weather be cold it should be warmed ; this should
be poured from a fine rose watering-can ; the Bees then
become so busy cleaning themselves and their com-
panions that they have no time to think of stinging.

Queen Bees are imported from Italy in little deal
boxes about 5 inches square, a Queen accompanied by
about a hundred Workers; and on lifting the cover a
remarkable proof is afforded of how much our irritable
little friends may be subdued. Open the box, there
they are, a fluttering, buzzing little swarm, each Bee
armed with a sting and two pairs of wings, but showing
not the slightest inclination to use either, as harmless as
so many flies. Hold the box in hand, they buzz and
seem to boil over the edges, running abéut the hands;
and having apparently ascertained all about it, back
they go to attend their liege sovereign without any
attempt to investigate further, or revenge the indignities
they have lately suffered. This state of subjection is
the whole secret of driving; it may be summed up in
one word, “terror.” Only thoroughly alarm the Bees
and they become tractable and harmless.

The apathy with which Bees submit to all manner of
interference at Bee Shows is mainly attributable to the

156 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

scare they have received in their journey there—indeed
the most vicious stock if tied up and driven in a cart
about the country for an hour would be found thoroughly
subdued.

When manipulating much with the Bees, the Apiarian
soon discovers certain stocks that are much more peace-
ful than others ; these may be noted as show stocks to
one’s friends, who will often become quite bold after seeing
the way in which the Bees are handled. Half-breeds, the
cross between Ligurians and English Bees, have the
reputation of being very irritable, and I think it is well
founded. When Bees mean mischief, they emit a certain
note which I call their angry buzz; this is soon learned
by their owner, who can often avoid being stung by
regarding the warning.

FOREIGN BEES, AND THE METHODS OF
LIGURIANIZING AN APIARY.

“The better brood, unlike the bastard crew,
Are marked with royal streaks of shining hue.” —VIRGIL.

BotH Aristotle and Virgil wrote of a Bee which
answers to the Ligurian, or, as it is sometimes styled,
“Ttalian” or “ Alp” Bee, and even in their days it was
called the better variety. The name“ Ligurian” appears
to have been given by Spinola, who described it in 1805.
This Bee has since been introduced into most Bee-keep-
ing countries. The species is indigenous to the south of
Europe, and has been cultivated in Italy in the same way
as the common Honey Bee has been in the northern
parts of Europe from time immemorial. It is the Apzs
Ligustica of the naturalist; and though so well known to

FOREIGN BEES. 157

exist and to have all the honey-producing properties of
our own Honey Bee, with some other advantages besides,
it seems remarkable that it should have remained so long
uncultivated by the Apiarians of this country. First
brought over the Alps in 1843 by M. de Balderstein, the
merit of introducing it to this country is due to Mr. A.
Neighbour, who, having made the necessary preliminary
inquiries, placed himself in communication with Mons.
H. C. Hermann, of Tamin-by-Chur, in the Canton of
Grison, Switzerland; and on the 19th of July, 1859, the
Ligurian Bee was introduced to England.

The Italian Yellow Bee differs from the common
Black Bee, in having three light chrome yellow-coloured
abdominal bands, each 1-16th of an inch wide. The
Queen is lighter in colour, but otherwise not different in
appearance to Black Queens.

The Ligurian Queens are more prolific, their progeny
swarm earlier and more frequently, and also work much
harder, being abroad both earlier and later. It has been
often said that they work on flowers inaccessible to the
common Bee, as their tongues are longer; but, from
careful microscopical measurement of a large number, I
can contradict this; the size of both Bees and tongues
vary, like in the common Bees, but after measuring and
averaging many, I found the length practically the same.

Ligurian Bees are now largely cultivated in Britain,
and are generally preferred to the common Black Bee;
and many Bee-keepers, taking advantage of the fact that
the Ligurians and Blacks are both one species (although
which is the variety and which the species is unknown to
us), and having well proved the theory of Parthenogenesis,
have successfully replaced their Black Queens with
Ligurians, and so eventually succeeded in Ligurianizing
their whole Apiary. This may be accomplished in various

158 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

ways; the best and simplest is to depose the whole of the
reigning sovereigns, and elevate to their vacant thrones
fertile Ligurians, which are now imported in considerable
numbers at irregular intervals, and are generally bespoken
on their arrival; for in the little boxes they arrive in they
will not thrive long, and the casualties of the journey are
sometimes serious. Supposing these have to be pur-
chased, the expense will depend on the month in which
the operation is to be performed. If the Bee-keeper
determines to commence his season with the new
Queens, they will cost in May or June from 12s. to 15s.
each, but if he be content to wait till September, about
half the money will suffice.

This is a considerable reduction from their value when
first introduced, which was something like two guineas,
At the price now obtainable, they will amply repay
their speculative purchaser, for there is no question the
Ligurian variety is a far better worker and breeder than
our old friends. They may be seen sallying forth to work
long before the true Britons, and still labour after their
neighbours have sought their well-earned rest. The
Queens are more prolific, probably because of the above;
for whilst food comes into the hive, breeding will go
on, and if supplies are stopped, so is egg-laying. The
introduction of a Ligurian stock is a general source of
benefit to the other Bees of the neighbourhood, for the
natural law of “fresh blood” giving vigour holds good
with Bees as with larger animals, and very quickly it will
be found the progeny of many young Queens will show
signs of love-making by the strangers.

The Egyptian Bee has several times been imported
into England, but has been found very irritable, with no
good qualities to counterbalance this very serious fault.
The Carniolian or Hungarian Bee is occasionally im-

FOREIGN BEES. 159

ported, and it has the reputation of being very gentle.
A stock of this kind I had maintained their good
character, but I lost them by disease before a summer’s
trial was complete. This variety appears to have too
great an inclination to swarm to make strong stocks for
honey-gathering. On the Continent of Europe great
attention has been paid to the introduction of a Bee from
Cyprus, said to surpass all others known for good
qualities, but very few have been imported into England,
and I have no reliable confirmation of their attributed
virtues.

The operation of exchanging Queens may be per-
formed in various ways, dependent in great measure on
the form of hive in use; with frame hives, ten or twelve
minutes should afford ample time for the work, and the
danger to the new sovereign is almost nil. With skeps
or closed boxes more time is occupied, it being imper-
ative that the Black Queen should be first captured ;
and, to effect this, it is generally necessary to drive out
the Bees until the Queen is discovered and safely
removed. Sometimes she will elude the most educated
and vigilant eye, in spite of patience and assiduity ; and
it is unsafe to introduce the new sovereign without being
quite certain the old one is not in the hive. The mere
fact of not finding her is not sufficient, and in the event
of a battle royal it must not be forgotten the foreigner is
tired, cowed, and enfeebled by her long journey and
confinement, whilst her antagonist is in her accustomed
vigour. Supposing the old Queen is surely removed,
it would never do to introduce the new one to the tender
mercies of the Workers without proper precautions being
observed, for Bees are not noted for hospitality to
strangers, so she must be inclosed in a wire cage placed
in the hive, and kept so imprisoned for at least twenty-

160 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

four hours, when the excitement of the Bees at the loss
of their old Queen will have passed away, and the new
one will generally be gladly accepted. It is advisable
to sprinkle the Bees and Queen liberally with scented
syrup both on the introduction and release. When the
above time has elapsed, open the cage gently and let
her majesty walk out. Watch carefully the Workers.
If they take no notice of her or merely walk over, licking
and feeding her, all is well and she may be safely left ;
but if she be seized by the legs and wings, and the Bees
assemble tumultuously about her, beware! In a few
minutes the Bees gather into a ball with the Queen in
the midst, when regicide is meant. Take up the knot of
Bees and drop them into acup of water, which will
effectually separate the cluster and hurt none; or pull
off the Bees until the Queen is released, and immediately
cage her again for another day’s imprisonment, when the
same process must be repeated with probably a better
result. If a cluster is again formed, try the effect of
worrying them about with some tobacco-smoke for a few
minutes, when most likely they will give up in disgust.
We must bear in mind that the great secret for the
successful introduction of an alien Queen is to familiar-
ize the Workers with her before giving them a chance of
killing her, for though it is true Bees, in the excitement
of driving or swarming, may take a Queen then given
and not discover an exchange has been made, and even
when they have found themselves to be Queenless and
all in consternation gladly accept a new sovereign, the
experiment is too dangerous to risk without precaution.
It will be at once perceived how, by the proper manage-
ment of nucleus hives, enough Queens may be bred from
one Ligurian to supply any number of hives, the only
difficulty being to obtain pure impregnation ; and this

FOREIGN BEES. 161

where the Drones, either from one’s own or neighbour's
hives, are English Bees, becomes difficult, and the
chances are very much against it. Two or three plans
may be adopted to secure this desirable result. Suppos-
ing one Ligurian stock is successfully established,
Queens in nuclei should be raised ; and if the raising of
Drones can be prevented in the other hives by cutting
out all Drone comb, or the Drones captured as they
leave the hive, then supposing the Ligurian stock has
plenty of Drones, there is a chance of. the Queen’s
mating with one of those ; but it is a poor chance should
black Drones abound from neighbour’s hives ; however,
crossed or not, a young Queen should be placed at the
head of each stock; and next year (it having been
abundantly proved that Drones are hatched from unim-
pregnated eggs) all the Drones in the Apiary will be pure
Ligurians. More Queens should then be reared, and
(the chance of proper impregnation being now much in-
creased) one should take the place of every Queen who
is discovered to have been breeding: mongrels. But even
a mongrel stock is an improvement on the pure Blacks.
Although the first cross Italian is more irascible than
the Blacks or pure Italian, it is generally allowed by
persons of experience that as Workers they are superior
to either pure breed. Bees may be known to be
mongrel if they are not all alike. Stocks of pure Ligu-
rians vary in the brilliancy of their yellow bands, but all
in the hive will be found to be alike, whilst the Bees of
a crossed Queen will be found to vary, some with bright
bands, others scarcely to be distinguished from Blacks.
Plans have been practised either to breed Drones and
young Queens earlier or later in the year than those
naturally raised, and success is often attendant. In the

first case, a hive should be selected towards the middle
M

162 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

or end of March—the two central combs removed and
Drone comb substituted. The Queen will fill the cells,
and Drones be hatched in due course, by which time
young Queens should be ready. If this be properly
managed these Ligurians will be the only Drones about,
and on the Queens issuing they may probably be mated
successfully; but the danger is the Drones and the
Queens not issuing or meeting together ; and if the Queen
be not impregnated within three or four weeks of her
birth she becomes a Drone-breeder. Of course if Queens
and Drones be bred from selected Queens, in the
autumn, after the natural bred Drones are killed, the
same result may be obtained. Drones at this time are
best obtained by depriving a hive, when full of Drones,
of their Queen, when the former will be suffered to live;
or putting at the head of a stock furnished with Drone
comb an unimpregnated Queen who, of course, will
breed Drones only. Mr. Cheshire suggests the following
plan to increase the chances of pure impregnation:
“The nucleus hive being complete, and its selected.
Queen cell inserted, place it as near as possible to the
stock containing the Drones which is desired to mate
with the maturing Queen. The Apiarian’s wishes in the
matter will determine his selection. If the Ligurian be
mainly prized for its beautiful markings, the choice will
probably fall differently from what it may be if high
fertility be chiefly sought. If the hive admit of it, and one
nucleus only is available, it may be placed upon the Drone
containing stock, making the openings of the two hives
face opposite ways; the Queen being duly hatched and
the time for her flight having arrived, he transfers the
nucleus late in the evening to a dark room or cupboard,
having previously closed the flight-hole with perforated
zinc ; the next afternoon being so far advanced that

FOREIGN BEES. ay 163

Drones are, for the most part, quietly resting from their
midday wanderings, the Drone-containing hive is opened
and thoroughly warmed, diluted honey is sprinkled over
Bees and frames, the cover is replaced, and a food bottle
containing the before-mentioned Bee delicacy placed
upon it. The nucleus is now brought from its hiding
place and positioned as before, care being taken that the
sun shines as fully as possible into the flight-hole. Let
the nucleus now receive, by lifting carefully the cover, a
gentle libation of warm Bee nectar, and shortly, in all
probability, the Queen will issue to be joined by one of
the Drones, which in large numbers will now be career-
ing in merry mood around the excited stock. Should
she fail to come forth, the operation must be repeated on
the succeeding day.”

A process described in the American Bee Journal
advises keeping the young Queen with a few Drones
from flying until so late in the afternoon, that all other
Drones have ceased flying. The hive or nucleus is then
opened, and a teacup full of warm honey or syrup
poured a little at a time directly on the cluster. This
sets the Bees all in excitement. Very soon the Queen,
Drones and all, issue fora flight. If at a proper age
(about a week old), the Queen will probaby return
impregnated within half an hour. The hive and bees
may be placed in a cellar, when the Queen is three days
old, and kept there three or four days to prevent chance
impregnation.

164 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING,

QUEEN-BREEDING AND NUCLEUS HIVES.

THE practical Bee-keeper will soon see the many ad-
vantages acquired by having on hand fertile Queens.
Quinby says: “The introduction of a mature fertile
Queen to a colony two weeks sooner than when they
swarm naturally is an advantage sufficient to pay for
extra trouble. The time gained in breeding is equiva-
lent to a swarm.” According to Monticelli, the Greeks
and Turks of the Ionian Islands knew how to make
artificial swarms, and the art of producing Queens at
will has been practised by the inhabitants of a little
Sicilian Island called Favignana, from very remote
antiquity, and he even brings arguments to prove that it
was no secret to the Greeks and Romans; but it is not
noticed by Aristotle and Pliny. After a stock has
swarmed, which takes place usually in the height of the
busy time, much time is lost by the parent stock raising
a new Queen, and when raised she has to get fertilized,.
which may not happen for two weeks or more; all this
time breeding is suspended, and as mortality is very
great in the summer the former strong stock probably
dwindles; and if the young Queen on her excursion
meets with any mishap, the stock will die, as it then has
no*eggs or young brood with which to rear another
Queen. If the Bee-master be able to supply it with a
fertile Queen, immediately on the issue of the swarm,
no time is lost—breeding is kept up, and in a few days,
if desired, the hive may be induced to swarm again, or
the Bees may be set to work to fill a super, provided
honey be abundant. By never leaving a hive without a
fertile Queen, I may safely say its increase is doubled.

QUEEN-BREEDING AND NUCLEUS HIVES. 165

On the Continent of Europe, and in America, there
are many establishments devoted to breeding Queens
alone, and small swarms for exportation, a large busi-
ness being done. By these means the Ligurian or
Italian Bee has become naturalized in both Continents
as well as in Australia, and my object now is to describe
how the practical Apiarian can rear any number of
Queens he pleases. For this purpose small hives, called
Nucleus Hives, are used; they may be of any desired
size, but it is necessary to work from frame hives of
some description. The “Cheshire” Prize Nucleus Hive,
which is intended for use with Woodbury hives, is a very
excellent pattern; it is. 32 inches wide inside, 9 inches
deep, and 73 inches from front to rear. It has double
sides—inner 43-inch wood, outer 32-inch, with strips be-
tween, so as to inclose an air-space all round; the back
and front have a 3-8th-inch rabbet at the top, similar to
a Woodbury hive, for the frames to rest upon. The
object of having an air-space all round is, that the
necessary heat may be retained, which is very important ;
and to assist in this it is desirable to varnish or paint
the hives white. Mr. Cheshire employs the following
ingenious contrivance to facilitate stocking his nuclei.
Instead of following the ordinary pattern of Woodbury
frames, a little deviation is made, forming what is called
“Twin Nucleus Frames.” I take the following descrip-
tion and drawings from the columns of ‘The Country :’—

a BF é
mm 2

& eae sg ar

Fig. 69.

“A strip of wood, Fig. 69, 3-8ths of an inch thick,
and 7-8ths of an inch wide, is cut 16} inches long, and

166 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

pencil lines, d and #4, are drawn across it at 5-8ths of
an inch from the extremities; the line ¢ occupies the
centre, exactly 83th inches from each end, and ¢, a,ef
and g are placed at §-8ths of an inch from each other ;
k, Z, m and x are now added with a gauge-marker, if one
is at hand, and ¢ being cut through with a fine saw, the
parts shaded are removed; the tongue left thus on
one half fits into the hollow made in the other, so that
the two being shut together, the length of the bar is
reduced to 15 inches, and fits the ordinary Woodbury.
To the respective halves with brads or small French
nails the uprights of the frames, each 8 inches in length,

=j

x 2

Fig. 70.

are fixed, having their outer faces upon the lines 4, d, f,and
h, the bottom bars complete the whole, which takes the
form of Fig. 70. Ifthe parts be screwed up in a wood-
vice whilst driving the nails, splitting will be effectually
prevented. The frames being shut together, holes pierced
in p and g, and a bell-hanger’s clip inserted in them,
the whole is complete and fit to place in the hive be-
tween other frames of comb, or to receive the combs cut
from a common frame. The nucleus hives in which the
Queens are hatched may be made to take one or two
dividing frames. One is preferable for the following

QUEEN-BREEDING AND NUCLEUS HIVES. 167

reasons: Firstly. A smaller number of Bees will be
required to keep up the needed temperature for maturing
the Queen at the least 70 degrees in the smaller than
the larger hives. They will all be collected on the two
combs, and by placing the Queen cell somewhat between,
they will be compelled olens volens to nurse it. Secondly.
Only half the number of dividing frames will be required
in the Apiary that the larger hive would demand.
Thirdly. Less combs will be employed ; and this, with
Bee-keepers who have not many stocks, or who have been
fortunate enough to lose none during the winter, is a
matter of considerable consequence. Fourthly. Nuclei
always dwindle, and only half as many young Bees will
be required to strengthen the smaller nucleus hive as the
larger would need.”

These twin frames, when shut together, form one
Woodbury frame, and if, when intending Queen-breed-
ing, two or three of these complete twin frames are
inserted into the middle of the hive from which it is
desired to breed Queens, the reigning monarch will
speedily stock them with eggs; and if she be then re-
moved, her subjects will, after a few hours’ delay, convert
from four to twelve (or more) of the young larve into
Queens. Should only a small number of young Queens
be desired, and the Queen-cells are sufficiently distributed
amongst the twin frames, when they are sealed the frame
may be divided, and every such divided frame containing
the desired cell removed to a nucleus hive with the cell
facing inwards, and another frame of brood placed
alongside it. It may happen that some of the small
frames have on their combs several Queen-cells; if left
there, all but one will be sacrificed, but they may be
utilized by cutting them out, and inserting them in other
frames not fortunate enough to have Queen-cells of their

168 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

own. If the parent hive has not been furnished with
twin nucleus frames, the combs alone may be divided
and fitted into the small frames in the manner which
will be found described under the head of “ Transferring.”
It will then be seen that each full-sized Woodbury comb
will completely furnish a nucleus hive, wanting only the
Bees. It is, undoubtedly, an advantage that each comb
in the nucleus should contain plenty of brood, because,
as they hatch out, fewer Bees will be required to carry
on the work of the miniature colony ; and if it be found
that the Bees dwindle too fast, and the brood has
hatched out, change one of the empty combs for a fuller
one, or place any quantity of young Bees, who have not
flown, on the floor-board in front of the nucleus, they
will run in and fraternize at once.

Young Bees may be always told by their lighter
colour, having a greyish look about them. When breed-
ing Queens, it is not safe to leave a number of sealed
cells together more than nine days after the first cell was
formed, as, should an older larva than usual have been
selected by the Bees for a Queen, it may hatch sooner
than expected, when the remaining immature Queens will
be sacrificed. When the young Queen hatches, let her
remain with the nucleus until she becomes fertile, when
she may be made use of either to replace another Queen,
or to build up a new stock. The nucleus should be
stocked with young Bees, if possible, as they are not
likely to go back again to the hive of their birth, and
will live longer. A goodly number should be given in
order that the two combs may be well covered ; to ac-
complish the stocking, search for combs having plenty
of young Bees on them, then shake them in front of the
nucleus hive, taking care to spread a paper or cloth from
the entrance to the ground in such a manner as to

QUEEN-BREEDING AND NUCLEUS HIVES. 169

prevent the Bees taking shelter wxderneath the hive ;
this may be accomplished by slightly raising the hive
from its floor-board, and putting the edge of the cloth
beneath it. The Bees will then run in, and probably
remain; but if next day it be found many have deserted,
repeat the process until a sufficient population is
procured.

The Bee-keeper who keeps himself familiar with the
internal economy of his hives will often find numbers of
Queen-cells in swarming time’; the first Queen who
hatches generally destroys the rest, but if Queens are
wanted, the cells as sealed over may be transferred to
nuclei, or to other hives, where a Queen is required.
Care should be taken not to bruise the cell, as the con-
tained pupa is very delicate, and it must not be allowed
to become chilled; so the more quickly all operations
can be completed the better. The cell should be cut
out with a triangular piece of comb attached, and in-
serted, mouth downwards, in a similar aperture in the
selected comb. Before removing Queen cells, it is as
well to wait until they are nearly mature, which may be
known by the cell having the wax removed from it by
the Bees, so as to give it a brown appearance.

When Queen-cells are sealed over, and the young
Queens due within a day or two, they may be readily
artificially hatched anywhere in a temperature of 90° to
100°. In America a hot water chamber is used by
Queen-breeders for this purpose, and I have even
hatched them in my trousers’-pocket, but unless the
atmosphere be moist as well as warm, the Queens are
apt to have crippled wings, when they are useless. A
curious thing about these artificially hatched Queens is,
that provided they have not been with other Bees, they
may be safely introduced to any colony wanting a

170 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

Queen, who seem to pay them no attention whatever.
If, however, they have been with other Bees it is almost
impossible by any known means to get them accepted
by strangers, so long as they remain infertile.

‘King’s Bee-Keepers’ Text Book’ describes the fol-
lowing method of procedure pursued in America to
form nuclei :—

“Form a nucleus from an Italian or other populous
stock, by blowing a few whiffs of smoke into the en-
trance, and, opening the hive, select a frame of comb
containing capped brood, but especially plenty of eggs
and young larve. After looking this over carefully, lest
the old Queen be removed, place it, with its adhering
Bees, in the empty hive, and next to it another comb
containing honey, which will afford protection to the
brood and food for the Bees, as many of the old Bees
will return to the parent stock; give the nucleus hive at
least a quart of Bees, and set it on a new stand, two or
three rods distant. Contract the entrance so that but
one or two Bees can pass at the same time, a feeder
or sponge filled with sweetened water, set on the
frames, will supply their wants until the young Bees go
to work in their new location. In place of the combs
removed from the parent stock, set in empty frames
with a full one between. If the frames are put near the
centre the old will increase all the faster, as the Queen
will fill the new comb with eggs as fast as it is built.
The removal of the two frames stimulates the Bees to
great activity by giving them room to work, and de-
taches just Bees enough to prevent their clustering idly
about the entrance. The nucleus will construct Queen-
cells, and rear a Queen as well as whole swarms.
Besides, the Queen is easily found among so few Bees.
We now wait until the tenth or eleventh day from the

QUEEN-BREEDING AND NUCLEUS HIVES. 17!

time the nucleus was formed, when we open it, and with
a sharp thin-bladed pocket-knife, cut out all the Queen
cells dat one, and use them immediately in forming
other nuclei, by attaching one of them to a frame of
comb and Bees taken from an old stock as before
described, and placed in an empty hive. The beginner
should remove but one at a time, returning the frame
from which it was taken to its place in the hive, until
the royal cell is adjusted in its new location. When
practicable, leave about an inch square of comb attached
to the cell, and upon taking the comb or brood from the
old stock make an opening among the eggs and larve,
where the Bees will be sure to cluster upon it, and keep
it warm. If the first nucleus was formed from the only
Italian stock in the yard, and more Queen-cells are
wanted, remove every Queen-cell from it, and add
another comb of eggs, and brood from its parent stock.
But when no more Queen-cells are needed, leave one to.
hatch, and as by this time the brood will all be capped
over, the Bees will be liable to follow the young Queen
on her excursion to meet the Drones. To prevent this,
exchange one of the combs for one containing eggs and
young larve, when forming the other nuclei. Young
Queens will return, unless lost, destroyed by birds or
other casualties, to which all Queens are once exposed.
Such loss is easily ascertained among so few Bees, and
we have only to insert another Queen-cell, adding a
comb containing eggs and brood, and repeat the trial.”

172 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

DRIVING

Is the art of compelling Bees to leave one hive for
another, either to facilitate the making of artificial
swarms, to enable us to deprive the Bees of their stores,
to strengthen the population of stocks by adding two
or more together, to capture the Queen for the purpose
of introducing a Ligurian, or making other exchange.
Driving is principally done upon stocks in skeps; with
frame hives it is not usually required. The modus
operandi is very simple, and, properly managed, should
seldom fail. Some writers have gone so far as to assert
it is simply absurd to imagine that a stock of Bees will
leave their well-furnished hive for an empty one at the
bidding of the Bee-master. I can only say ¢hey wll, and
the stronger and more active the stock, the sooner they
will go. Ona cold day, with very weak or Queenless
colonies, I have sometimes found the Bees unpersuadable,
or only going after a long exercise of patience ; but at
other times from ten minutes to half an hour is generally
sufficient.

At the Bee Show of the British Bee-keepers’ Association,
1878, prizes were offered to the competitors who should
in the quickest, neatest, and most effectual manner, drive
out the Bees from a full straw hive, and capture and ex-
hibit the Queen. The first prizeman accomplished his
task in 52 minutes, capturing the Queen in her exit;
another competitor did his work in 54 minutes, but missed
the Queen as she travelled. It has often struck me as sur-
prising how any one can fail to drive the Bees under
favourable circumstances; that beginners do often fail is
incontestible, but having once passed the fons asinorum,

DRIVING. 173

the successful Bee-keeper feels astonished how he could
have failed in such an easy operation. When once the
work is begun never give in until completed satis-
factorily. It becomes only a question of time, the Bees
must go. Supposing now it is desired to expel the
whole of the Bees from their hive, and it is the operator's
first attempt to drive, I would suggest the following
method of procedure, which, if followed, will result suc-
cessfully :—In the middle of a fine day, when a good
many Bees are abroad, commence by blowing two or
three puffs of smoke into the hive you desire to drive,
then give it a smart open-handed smack on each side,
and leave it; the smoke and the smacks immediately
put the Bees into intense excitement, and after, perhaps,
an alarmed sally to the entrance to take stock of the
enemy, every Bee proceeds’ to fill herself with honey to
be prepared against contingencies. Whilst this is going
on, get ready a pail or stand on which to set the hive—a
pail is best if the hive is round-topped, as it will be
held more secure; also two empty skeps, two sticks
about 1 inch in diameter, and two iron skewers, and if
the operator be timid a round towel as well as 2 or 3
yards of stout string; five minutes will have by this
time elapsed. Now the hive must be boldly lifted off its
floor-board and placed mouth upwards in the pail or on
the stand, and another skep of the same size placed
(mouth to mouth) on the top of it. On the stand where it
came from, place an empty skep to amuse the Bees who
come home whilst we are operating. The round towel
may now be wound round the juncture of the two hives
and secured with the string; this, after the experience of
a few drivings, will be dispensed with. Now, with the
two sticks, or with the open hands, smartly strike the
sides of the full hive, keeping up a continual drumming ;

174 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

the Bees become terror-stricken, and, after a time, start
in a stream for the upper hive, giving out a rushing
sound which may be plainly heard if listened for. The
emigrants are now harmless, and will neither fly away
nor sting, consequently the towel may be removed, and
the top hive tilted up to an angle of 45 degrees, being
kept in position there by the two skewers, with which
pin the hives together right and left of their point of
junction, which must be at the place where the swarm
of Bees is thickest.

Notwithstanding the skewers, the top hive is ofter
found to slip and re-precipitate the Bees on to the
combs, and to obviate this, and free one hand, I have
designed some little appliances, as Figs. 71 and 72,
which are made of wire about
one-eighth of an inch in diame-
ter, all ends sharp-pointed. The

g
“| two larger portions of Fig. 71
i] . .
are united by a coiled wire of
half their thickness, the whole
forming a complete hinge, the
Fig. 71. Fig. 72.

lower pair of points to be driven
into the edge of the full skep their full length: the other
pair into that of the empty hive, which may then be
inclined at any desired angle, and supported in front
by the other wire or a pair of them, Figure 72, whose
points may be fixed in the straw where needed. After
again separating the two hives, if the hinge be left on
the one containing the Bees for a time, it will be found
useful as a prop to tilt up the hive on the floor-board
while the straggling Bees are coming home to their new
quarters.

The progress of the exodus being watched, and a
sharp look-out kept, the passage of the Queen will pro-

DRIVING. 175

bably be seen (unless she has already gone up), when she
may be captured, if desired, or allowed to proceed with
her subjects; when the stream of Bees begins to slacken
look down amongst the combs and, probably, various
clusters of Bees will be observed ; start them with a puff
of smoke or stir them with a feather, when they will
most likely run to join the main body. Experience will
soon give such confidence that it will not be thought
necessary to tie the two hives together with the cloth,
but proceed at once with the open driving, especially if
the object be to capture the Queen only, for she is just
as likely to go up with the first rush as to stay till the
last. Having succeeded in the driving without seeing
the Queen, great care must be taken that she be not left
behind in the hive, which should be carefully searched.
The Bees that have gathered in the temporary hive on
the floor-board may now be shaken into the other; or if
it be intended to place the driven Bees on their old
stand, they may be left to fly home after being removed
elsewhere. If driving is attempted in wet or cold
weather, or late in the evening, the Bees will often be
troublesome to move; and, as a very little cold benumbs
them, numbers who have flown will be lost, from their
inability to reach their home, so that this practice should
not be pursued at such times without adequate cause ;
but should necessity arise, and it be found or thought the
Bees will be reluctant to leave, they may be induced to
go, by warming their new domicile and sprinkling them
with warm syrup, thus creating the excitement necessary.
Mr. Pettigrew employs a method of shaking Bees out of
a straw skep in lieu of driving, which he thus describes :
“When hives are less than thirty pounds in weight we
shake them out in less than half a minute; no smoke
is used, the Bees are taken unawares; the hive to receive

176 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING,

them is placed on its crown, the other gently raised off
its board (it must be previously loosened), but not turned
up; the Bee-master now places his fingers inside the
hive and his thumbs outside, the hive being fairly
balanced on his hands, and his legs pretty well astride
the empty hive. He now acts as if he were going to dash
the one he holds against the other, but they never touch ;
the Bees, however, go forward, and fall into the empty
hive. A few violent thrusts or shakes, well performed,
is often enough to empty the hive of every Bee. In cold
weather, when Bees are sitting fast among their combs,
they cannot be shaken out without first feeding them
by sprinkling. A few minutes after having been fed
they will be found moving lightly about over their
combs, when they may be readily and easily shaken
out in less than half a minute. We often perform
this operation by candle-light. By feeding the Bees
about sunset, and taking them into a room or barn in
about half an hour afterwards, they can be readily
shaken out on to the floor of the room, and a hive placed
over them, and sometimes there is not a Bee lost by
doing it.” This plan may be practised on old hives
crossed by the abominable sticks ; but from any others
I fancy the combs’ would fall as well as the Bees, which
would not be the desirable thing.

\
TRANSFERRING COMBS AND BEES TO FRAME-
HIVES.

A BEE-KEEPER would often use a frame hive, were it
not for the fact that his Bees are at present domiciled in
a skep, and he knows not how to remove them; and as

TRANSFERRING BEES TO FRAME-HIVES. 177

this is one of the most important operations, requiring
some exercise of skill and knowledge, I will endeavour
to explain the method to be pursued.

For my own part, knowing the value of the comb
foundation, I should never transfer old or crooked combs
unless it be for the purpose of saving the brood from
destruction. The frames being supplied with the wax
sheets, and food given, which may be either syrup or
honey, the Bees will soon build out their cells, but if no
such foundation be at hand, the old combs may be
utilized so long as they are clean and wholesome.
Frame hives and the honey-extractor will give every
facility for this, and it will be found true economy to
furnish all frames with combs whenever possible, and a
straw skep full of combs, whose late inhabitants have
died or deserted, will furnish for a swarm such a start
as will send them far ahead of all competitors not so
fortunate. In making use of old combs we are enabled
to keep under the production of superfluous Drones, for,
if Worker comb be given, Workers will be bred; and
when we wish for Drones, all we have to do is to supply
the Queen with Drone cells.

No old comb should at any time be used which has
about it the slightest suspicion of foul-brood—better far
melt it down or burn it than introduce this malady
into the Apiary. All the whitest of the combs, particu-
larly if of Drone construction, should be reserved for
furnishing supers with decoys, without which the Bees
are often reluctant to work there. For breeding pur-
poses, the colour of the comb is of little import, it will
last good four or five years. Strips for guide-combs are
best made of the old and tough combs, and are as
readily accepted by the Bees. The value of one pound

of wax is about 2s. 6d., that of twenty pounds of honey,
N

178 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

205. ; therefore, by melting down one pound of clean
Worker combs, the Bee-master loses 175. 6a.! Why
should not this lesson be borne in mind ?

‘A novice will find considerable difficulty in transfer-
ring the combs of a hive that are full of brood, as the
young larve are extremely delicate and susceptible to
cold, and, therefore, it is by far the easiest plan to allow
the stock to swarm either naturally or artificially, and the
brood to hatch out, which will all be accomplished to the
last egg in twenty-one days after swarming, excepting,
perhaps, a few drones ; at this time (a day or two, more
or less, will not matter) the combs will be empty and
light and much easier to handle. Now let ai the Bees
be driven from their old home into an empty skep, which
place on the old spot ; then carry the denuded hive into
a room or other place inaccessible to the Bees. An old
skep is seldom of much value, and in this case with a
strong knife cut it right in half between the two centre
combs. The object we have in view is to fill the frames
of the new hive as far as we can with the combs from
the skep, and in the absence of apparatus, which I will
presently describe, lay the first frame down flat on a
clean table, and having cut out one of the centre combs,
if it be larger than the frame (as is usually the case
with centre combs), merely cut the’ lower side straight,
and reduce the height of the comb so as to fit the frame
by cutting off as much of the honey-cells at the top as
may be requisite, and the same at the two ends, so that
the comb shall fill the frame completely, and consist of
all or nearly all Worker cells. If there be any portions
of the fitted comb prominently thicker than the centre
part, slice it off with the knife, endeavouring to arrange
so that the foundations of the cells shall be equi-distant
from both sides. If the comb was sufficiently large, it

TRANSFERRING BEES TO FRAME-HIVES. 179

should now be found firmly fitted to the frame, and can
be at once placed in the new hive as far as possible in
the same order as the comb was when fixed in the skep,
but it is generally advisable to pass a couple of tapes
over frame and comb to prevent the latter afterwards
falling out of place. Some of the combs will now be
found not large enough to fill the frames; if they be
plentiful, cut them into rectangular pieces, and so fill the
frame. The Bees will join all together, and they will
soon make a good sound comb; but when combs are
scarce, and we cannot afford to waste any, cut the top
straight, and if the bottom bar be not reached, support
the comb with a wooden lath under its bottom edge,
under which pass two or more tapes, tying over the top
bar against which the comb should thus be tightly
pressed. If the vacancy between the lath and bottom
bar be not much, the lath may be wedged up tightly by
means of two or three old corks or like means. Should
the combs not reach along the whole length of the top
bar, it is as well to fasten on a strip of Worker comb as
a guide for the Bees to continue, or they will probably
build crooked.

Care should be taken to preserve as much Worker
comb as possible, to pare the thick honey-cells away
until they are of the proper thickness, and to put the
combs in the right way upwards, that is, as they were
built. Very little Drone comb should be returned, and
that placed towards the sides of the hive. All the
parings of the combs, waste honey, &c., should be care-
fully collected into a feeding bottle, and given to the
Bees on the top of the hive; they will re-store the honey,
so that little or no waste will occur, and it will assist
them in eliminating wax wherewith to fix and make
good the combs, which in the summer will generally be

N2

“180 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

found done in 48 hours ; after which, the supports may
be removed, being careful in replacing the frames not to
.damage the fragile new attachments.

Now to return to the fitting. Asfast as the frames
are fitted, replace them in the hive, and when all are
‘placed, about which no time should be lost, return the
Bees as if they were a new swarm—see “ Natural
- Swarming.”

If there be not enough combs to fill all the frames,
guide-combs should be attached to those empty to insure
straight building ; and in swarming-time all spare combs
should be utilized in this manner.

An apparatus which greatly facilitates this operation

As

UR

Fig. 73.

was exhibited by Mr. F. Cheshire at the Crystal Palace
Show, which he calls a “Transferring-Board.” The
judges thought its utility worthy of a special prize. It
may thus be described: The board consists of sixteen
wooden tongues about 10 inches long, fixed like the
teeth of a comb; it has legs which, for packing, fold
underneath, and a zinc pan to catch the dripping honey.
Flat on the tongues is placed the comb to be transferred,
and the frame is fitted on to it; a lath is then laid on its
edge under the comb, and tapes passed between the
tongues, and fastened at once on the top bar. The lath

DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 181

is not required if the frame be quite filled. The board
can then be tilted up until perpendicular, carrying the
comb and frame with it, which latter is to be at once
lifted out and placed where required. I have several
times used this appliance, and have found it very handy.

DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.

BEES have not many diseases to trouble them, but the
few they have are ofttimes very fatal; indeed one, which
is known under the name of foul-brood, has been justly
termed the Bee Plague ; this fatal complaint is far more
common than is generally supposed, and to it many a
Bee-keeper who has found his Apiary unproductive for
years, with stocks dwindling in spite of all care, may with
truth attribute his ill-success. Much has been written
and said on foul-brood, but up to the present time it is
not thoroughly understood, nor effective means known
either for its prevention or cure. It is not of modern
origin, for Aristotle described it more than two thousand
years ago. I may briefly say that foul-brood is the
name given to a disease which causes the larve of the
Bees to die and putrify in their cells, where they turn to
a disgusting foul-smelling, semi-liquid mass, impossible
for the Workers to remove, in which condition the air of
the hive becomes necessarily impure, poisoning the
unfortunate inhabitants.

The cause of foul-brood has been much debated, many
observers being of opinion that the disease is simply the
rotting of brood which had become chilled; but the
opinion seems to be gaining ground that, like typhus
and scarlet fever in our human hive, it is solely produced.

182 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

from germs of a fungus, millions of which are floating in
the atmosphere, and which, when finding an appropriate
habitat, germinate and produce the disease: probably
the foulness of dead larve provides this condition, and
the fungi spores there find the essential condition, as in
like manner typhus finds it in squalor and dirt.

Dr. Schonfeld of Germany has made a variety of ex-
periments, which tend to prove the correctness of this
theory.

As an example of the destructive effects of this
disease, I may cite the case of Dzierzon, the great
German Bee-master, who in 1848 had this plague break
out in his Apiary with such virulence that he lost more
than 500 stocks, only ten having escaped the malady.
About 1865, a friend of mine, who had twenty stocks,
complained of them not being profitable, and I purchased
the whole of him, and removed them to my garden.
Alas! they were foul-broody, and I lost them all, and
my original stocks in addition, as well as having two
or three years of trouble and vexation.

Again in 1876-7 my Bees were attacked with the
same disease in a most virulent form; and once more,
in spite of endless trouble, and far more attention than
most people could devote to their Apiary, I lost them all.
Many times I cut out the plague spots from the combs,
sometimes destroying all the brood combs. Fora time
all appeared to go well, but most surely the evil day came
again. While the warm weather lasted the combs were
examined almost daily; a single foul cell scarcely escaped
attention; but when the quiet of winter arrived, the
disease spread apace, and in the end I made a clean
sweep, by destroying the frames and the whole of my
beautiful straight combs that I was so proud of. The
hives I had scalded inside and out, washed with a

DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 183

solution of salicylic acid, also with carbolic acid,
and then painted; but even then the “snake was only
scotched,” not killed, for in one hive, being short of new
frames, I used two or three of the old ones previously
boiled, and in this hive the disease again appeared, which
was immediately stamped out by destruction. A much-
vaunted cure for foul brood is salicylic acid; several
eminent Bee-masters have spoken very favourably of it
as having been by them successfully used. I give the
recipe, but in my own case it was utterly useless; although
I used it lavishly in the most thorough manner, I was
unable to find the least good result. Herr Hilbert
reports that he cured 25 badly infected stocks by the
following process: Dissolve 50 grammes (not quite 13
ounces) of salicylic acid in 14 ounces of spirit of wine,
which will be found sufficient for 12 stocks; 100 drops of
this solution should be added to one pint of soft water
lukewarm, with which the combs and hive should be
well sprinkled, having first thoroughly shaken the
mixture. The combs are to be replaced in their hives
as soon as the operation is completed, and if no un-
necessary delay is made the brood will not be injured.
A little of the Salicylic Acid solution is also given
to their bees in all food supplied. I do not in the
least doubt Herr Hilbert’s veracity, but I think it
possible the quarantine after the treatment had not
been long enough to determine whether the reputed
cure was fallacious or not. In my own case I several
times congratulated myself on a cure, only, as after
events proved, to be disappointed. Where an Apiary is
found infected, I am confident the wisest course is to
destroy combs, frames, hives, and honey, as well as all
tools and litter about the place that has been in contact
with the stocks. The destruction as advised should be

184 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

by burning, for if any piece of the comb, &c., is left
about, and be visited by a Bee, she carries home, per-
haps, the germ of further trouble. The Bees may be
saved thus: Let them be driven, or by other means
taken out of the hive and confined in a straw skep with
plenty of ventilation for two days; the act of driving will
have induced every Bee to fill herself with honey from
her old home; this, if allowed to be deposited in a new
hive, would probably communicate the disease to the
new combs, but by keeping the Bees confined for the
time mentioned, all the honey will be consumed, and
the risk of infection considerably lessened. After the
quarantine has expired, transfer the Bees again to a
clean hive; if they carried infection away from home
they will probably leave it in the temporary hive, which,
to be on the safe side, should be also destroyed.

Honey that is found in an infected hive should on no
account be given to other Bees, and as it comes from an
atmosphere of putridity, is not fit for human consump-
tion; so is much better consigned to the flames with the
combs, &c. Foul-brood is often introduced into a hive
by feeding the Bees on foreign honey, which is not
seldom infected with it.

One cause of the dwindling of a foul-broody stock is
the constant reduction of the number of breeding cells,
for when a larva dies it is simply left to rot in its cell,
which, of course, becomes useless, and the number of
these cells may be so increased that the poor Queen
cannot find wholesome ones sufficient for her eggs.

I now proceed to say how the presence of foul brood
may be known. If the Apiary has been long unpro-
ductive, the Bees showing no energy or increase in their
numbers, but, on the contrary, dwindling, suspect foul-
brood; if extensively present, the combs will give outa

DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 185

bad odour like stinking animal matter, as indeed it is,
and on examining the combs they will be found here
and there black on the surface, with the cells having
their caps somewhat concave, with minute perforations ;
on removal of the caps the cells will be found to contain
a foul-smelling, sticky, semi-liquid, coffee-coloured mass,
which may be drawn out into threads like heated glue;
the dead larve may also be found in all lesser stages of
decomposition. Other cells will be found in which the
liquid has dried, leaving at the bottom a mass containing
highly infectious fungus spores, from which it may easily
be imagined how every comb, Bee, and drop of honey in
a foul-brood hive becomes a centre of infection, spread-
ing the disease far and near. If we at any time discover
in the combs dead and rotting larvee, excise the whole
comb, or at any rate such portions as contain the foul
cells. If the disease has not made much progress, it
may perhaps be thus stopped, but the combs should
receive a thorough examination frequently, to see if any
more work for the knife appear. Dr. Schonberg says,
that the disease in its wet state is not contagious,
although this is denied by some eminent Apiarians.
In manipulating or examining frames containing larve,
care should be taken that the larve do not get chilled
and die, for thus may be created just the nidus necessary
for the fungus to flourish.

DYSENTERY.—This is another disease, which is some-
times very destructive to Bees, and in some phases runs
very close to foul-brood, many Bee-keepers yet main-
taining they are one and the same thing. Dysentery is a
disease of the Bees, sometimes extending to the larve.
Foul-brood never extends to the Bees. There is no
doubt, however, how dysentery is often caused; improper
or too liquid food, cold, damp, and confinement will all

186 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

produce the malady. Bees, it is well-known, are cleanly
animals, and they will not, except under the most urgent
circumstances, void their excrement within the hive. On
the sudden appearance of a warm, sunny day, after
perhaps a long series of inclement ones, how eagerly do
the Bees fly abroad, and relieve whilst in the air their
distended bowels! Conspicuous places round about their
homes may be seen in all directions, spotted with their
rejectamenta. When quietly clustering during the winter
months Bees require to relieve themselves but seldom;
but if they are by unnatural disturbance roused into a
state of excitement, with their accustomed impetuosity
they distend their honey-bags by rifling their stores, and
if unfavourable weather succeed, and they cannot fly out,
dysentery is very likely engendered. The same effect
may be produced by a cold damp hive, whether caused
by atmospheric moisture from without, or by the im-
prudent stowage of a large quantity of watery food,
perhaps given to them in mistaken kindness by their
would-be benefactors. If a hive be discovered in
this unfortunate condition, with still living inmates, the
remedy is to remove all dead, give dry floor-board, and,
if a frame hive, transfer all Bees and combs to a clean,
dry hive. Should there be a large quantity of unsealed
food it had better be removed by the extractor or other-
wise, and the Bees, if necessary, fed with small quantities
of honey or barley sugar; then, if the population be not
too much reduced, we may hope to save the remainder,
Deaths from chilled brood and starvation cannot be
attributed to disease, but rather accident; and I need
scarcely say if mortality should be found to occur from
either of these causes, the dead should be immediately
removed lest disease should be engendered.
ENEMIES.—In England the enemies of Bees are but

DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 187

few, if we leave out of the question their inhuman masters
of the fire and brimstone school. Wax moths, although
very destructive in America, make no headway in
England; that is to say, in hives containing living Bees,
although where empty combs are carelessly stowed away
they will, probably, be wholly destroyed. There are two
species of moths which commit these depredations ; one,
the largest, Galleria Mellonella, is comparatively rare
here, although commonly imported in the larva state
with Ligurian Bees; the other, Achroia Grisella, is very
common, and where combs are left about unprotected,
its larve will most likely soon be too apparent. The
Apiarian who pays proper attention to his stocks will
not need to fear the wax moths. The death’s-head
hawk moth (Acherontia Atropos) is commonly cited as a
robber of Bee-hives, but in England it is sufficiently rare
to be unnoticeable in our Apiaries. On the Continent
of Europe a small insect, known as the Bee-louse,
Braula Caca, often infects the Bees to a considerable
extent, as many as a hundred being sometimes found on
a single Bee, and as the insect is nearly as large as a small
flea, the poor Bee, when thus loaded, must find her life
a burthen, as each louse lives by sucking the Bee; the
young are said to be produced in the pupa state. I have
found this pest several times on imported Ligurians ; but
the climate of England does not, fortunately, appear to
suit them, for they have soon disappeared.

Wasps often become very troublesome; they do not
hesitate to enter any hive to which they can gain
admission. A strong stock can generally defend their
entrance successfully, but woe betide the unfortunate
weak colony; there the wasps run riot at their will, and
will often completely rifle the hive of all its honied
sweets. These marauders should be trapped in narrow-

188 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

necked bottles of sweetened beer, which they will eagerly
enter and get drowned therein; the Bees are seldom
thus caught. Every wasp nest in the neighbourhood
should be sought for and destroyed; and in the spring,
when only the Queens are in existence, it must be re-
membered that every wasp then caught prevents the
establishment of a nest.

Insectivorous birds are sometimes very troublesome,
foremost of which stand the blue tit (Parus C@eruleus)
and the great tit (Parus Major). These birds, in the
winter time, when other insects are scarce, find an
abundant supply from the Bee-hives. It is said they
will stand at the doorway of the hives, stamp, and await
the unlucky Bee who seeks to know the business of the
visitor ; certain it is, that I have seen a rail, a few feet in
front of my hives, studded with Bee-stings in hundreds,
torn from the unfortunate victims, whose plump and
welcome bodies have formed the dinner of the tits, who
apparently reject the small portion which might prove
to them a discomfort. The fronts of the hives may be
fenced with a piece of wire-netting to outwit these
unwelcome visitors.

Mice, sometimes, will take up their winter quarters
within a hive, feasting on the stores as occasion arises.
When perceived they should be captured and destroyed.

‘‘The titmouse and the ‘ pecker’s’ hungry brood,
And progne, with her bosom stained in blood.
These rob the trading citizens, and bear
The trembling captives thro’ the liquid air.” —VIRGIL.

VENTILATION OF HIVES. 189

VENTILATION OF HIVES.

ANIMALS, from the smallest insect to lordly man, cannot
live without air; and our little friend, the Bee, forms no
exception to this rule. In the midst of summer, when
the hive is populated to repletion, the heat becomes
intense, and did not the Bees adopt some measures of
prevention, the new and delicate combs would collapse
and fall, as well as the health of the helpless larve suffer.
Nature, therefore, has taught the Bees a remedy. If on
a hot summer day the entrance of a hive be examined,
a number of Bees will be there observed standing on the
board with their wings in rapid vibratory motion, which
carries in a strong current of fresh air, replacing the hot
foul air driven out, and the number of “ventilators” is
increased or diminished as occasion requires. By this
means the atmosphere within is kept pure and whole-
some, as was demonstrated by poor blind Huber. We
are thus taught that Bees cannot bear close confinement
which, if accidentally occurring, as it does sometimes by
the snow or dead Bees blocking up the entrance, will,
unless quickly obviated, cause dysentery and death.
Apiarians who use hives with movable tops can, in the
summer, in great measure, regulate ventilation by leaving
the top more or less open by means of a small piece of
perforated zinc placed over the feed-hole. If rightly
managed, this aid will set at liberty great numbers of
Bees, who would otherwise be ventilating, to assist in
the general work of the hive, and will often prevent the
external clustering to which they are driven by the
extreme heat, in order that the combs may not melt,
or the young be stifled. The entrance of the hive, if

190 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

properly constructed, should be capable of enlargement at
need, and the Bee-master can, by this means, greatly
assist in good ventilation by making the opening larger
in summer and smaller in winter. The interference of
the Bee-keeper in the matter of summer ventilation I
do not consider of much moment; he can certainly
assist his Bees, but if that assistance be not rendered, no
great misfortune will necessarily follow. It is in winter
that defective ventilation is frequently the cause of great
calamity—no less than the death of the whole colony ;
and although I strongly advocate frame hives, I feel
compelled to say this misfortune happens more fre-
quently in those domiciles than in straw skeps; but this
is no fault of the frames or their construction, but simply
that the wood with which they are usually built retains
the generated moisture, whilst the straw allows the
greater part to filter through. This defect being admitted,
I now show how it can be remedied ; en passant I may
say that frame hives can be and are made equally well
in straw as in wood, when that objection to them, of
course, is done away with; but when we use wood, which
is the more common and handy material, care must then
be taken that proper ventilation is provided. Much has
been written on this subject, but I think the evil has
been greatly magnified. When the Bees are thickly
clustered together for the winter they do not hybernate
like many other animals, but are all lively and require
food, in the consumption of which moisture is evolved
in the form of vapour—this, if it cannot escape, naturally
condenses into water, keeping the hive cold and damp,
and the temperature low, obliging the Bees to eat yet
more to keep up the necessary heat, and thus the evil is
increased.

Upon a due appreciation of this subject, much of the

VENTILATION OF HIVES. 19g!

success of Bee-keepers depends. If we consider Bees
as we should human beings, we should not err greatly in
the treatment and construction of their domiciles. With
proper ventilation, Langstroth says: “No amount of
cold that we ever have will injure Bees;” and as he
records the temperature of January, 1857, at 30 degrees
below zero, which is never reached in England, I do not
think we need fear. We all know a cold dry winter is
more healthy than a mild wet one, even though the
temperature of the latter should be many degrees
higher; and a large airy bed-room, with window open,
is preferable to a small close one with sand-bags and
appliances to keep the cold out. Langstroth cites a case
where twenty hives were in a row, one suspended 20
inches from the ground, without a bottom board, the
others in the usual condition for wintering. The whole
got very wet; the nineteen died, and the one survived,
having been able to get rid of the moisture. One of our
most successful Apiarians mentioned to me that a hive
which gave him a super of 76 pounds weight, in 1874,
was wintered without a crown-board, but covered with
an empty super, and, as the result showed, with advan-
tage to the Bees.

On making an examination of my stocks early in
February, 1875, I found one hive, a part of whose
movable crown-board had slipped aside, exposing
several square inches of the top freely to the air, but,
fortunately, not to the rain. This stock was then by far
the strongest of many, and had a fair show of larve
growing up to Bee-hood.

A wooden crown-board tightly fastened to the hive’s
top keeps the cold out and the wet in, and some means
must be adopted to obviate this. When the hive is a
simple box, with the combs built from the top, a loose pad

192 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

should be laid on the feed-hole. The American custom
of entirely dispensing with crown-board, and substituting
in lieu thereof what is called “a quilt,” is very generally
practised in England. The quilt is composed of a
piece of carpet, or piece of duck, and then a thin mattress
stuffed with chaff, or other material, on the top of that;
in fact, anything that will warmly cover and yet permit
ventilation. Unless the hives be located in a damp
place I don’t look upon a quilt as an absolute necessity.
With my own hives I prefer to let the crown-board
remain, and my stocks do not suffer from damp.

PROPOLIS.

** And with their stores of gather’d glue contrive

To stop the vents and crannies of their hive,

Not birdlime, or Idean pitch, produce

A more tenacious mass of clammy juice.”—ViRGIL. \W+ 407
THIS is a resinous substance which the Bees obtain from
many trees, and it is applied by them to a variety of
useful purposes. It is, I believe, the only one of their
stores, if we except Bee-bread, that man has not found
it useful to deprive them of. With propolis the Bees fill
up every undesirable crevice about their hive, fix the
latter to the floor-board, and, often to the annoyance of
the users of bar-frame hives, cement the movable (?)
crown-board so tightly to the top that it becomes a
fixture, and occasions considerable trouble to loosen it.
Everything in the hive that is not tightly fixed will soon
be put into that condition with propolis. But these are
not the only uses to which Bees put propolis. Should
dead insects, or other offensive matter, make its unwel-
come appearance within the hive, which the Bees are

HONEY AND ITS SOURCES. 193

unable to remove, they have a remedy in propolis, with
which they will encase the objectionable substance.
They will also with propolis firmly cement to the floor
the shells of intruding snails, effectually stopping their
slimy wanderings over the combs. Reason and Instinct!
Who shall presume to say where the line is drawn ?

HONEY AND ITS SOURCES.

HONEY is the most important product of the Bees’
industry, and the main article for which Bees are culti-
vated. It may be shortly described as a sweet vegetable
juice, secreted in the nectaries of flowers, from whence it
is gathered by the Bees. Its chemical constituents are
nearly the same as glucose or grape-sugar. Popularly,
Bees are supposed to “make” honey: they do not do
so; they simply gather and store it, after which much of
the water it contains is evaporated, until, before sealing
over in the cells, it becomes considerably thicker than
when gathered. If the Bees be supplied with sugar
syrup they will store it, and to the eye it has much the
appearance of natural honey; but it is syrup still, as
may be proved by tasting. A Bee gathers honey with
its tongue, a beautiful flexible instrument, having about
112 joints. It is covered with hairs, and measures as
nearly as possible one-eighth of an inch in length. This,
inserted into the liquid nectar, is alternately extended
and contracted, by which means the honey is passed up-
wards into the mouth, and thence through the gullet
into the honey-bag or first stomach; which is the vehicle

for conveyance home; from there it is regurgitated
fc)

194 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

into the cells, where it is left to evaporate. The
colour and flavour of honey varies much, according to
the floral source from which it is derived. From the
white clover and hawthorn it is beautifully white; from
Lucerne, golden yellow; from heather, light brown, aro-
matic, and slightly bitter; from sycamore, very dark and
thick; from ivy and laurels, it is often so strongly
flavoured with prussic acid as to be disagreeable, and
instances in foreign countries have occurred, of honey
being actually poisonous, from the plants it was gathered
from. As a general rule, however, honey is both deli-
cious and wholesome. As an article of diet it is held in
high esteem, and is not unknown in medicine—it enters
into the composition of several preparations recognized
by the Medical Council of Great Britain, and is a nice and
popular remedy for sore throat, cough, &e. Dr. Munro,
in his ‘Medical and Pharmaceutical Chemistry, states
that Dr. John Hume, one of the Commissioners of the
sick and hurt of the Royal Navy, was for many years
violently afflicted with asthma. Having taken many
medicines without receiving relief, he at last resolved to
try the effect of honey. Having had a great opinion of
its virtues as an expectorant, for two or three years he
ate some ounces of it daily, and got entirely free of his
asthma, likewise of a gravelly complaint he had long
been troubled with. He also mentions another case,
where a very bad case of asthma was cured by the same
remedy.

With the exception of an occasional gathering from
honey-dew (to be presently explained), Bees gather the
whole of their honey from flowers, and, consequently,
where there are no flowers they cannot thrive; but the
term flowers must be taken in a broader sense than
meaning such as we cultivate for garden ornaments or

HONEY AND ITS SOURCES. 195

home decoration. The inconspicuous blossoms of many
trees, the wee modest wild flower, scarcely noticed by
passers by, furnish abundant pasturage for Bees. Many
persons who have lived in the country all their lives are
scarcely aware that our noblest forest trees have flowers
at all, but from the brave old oak and the wide-spreading
beech, Bees gather many a pound of honey. An avenue
of limes or sycamores, a field of beans or white clover,
forms a very El-dorado for the busy Bees, their pleasant
hum on the snowy hawthorn, or the sweet smelling sallow
(palm as it is commonly called), is very noticeable when
Nature is awakening from the gloomy sleep of winter,
and our thoughts and feelings are glad with the prospect
of returning summer. Where large heaths abound, the
Bees have a second harvest, and it is a common practice
in such localities for Bee-keepers to send their hives to
the moors for about two months, the trouble and cost
being amply repaid by the immense weight of honey
brought home, which the common heather yields freely
during August and September. Mignonette, borage,
honeysuckle, hyacinth, crocus, laurustinus, lavender, lily,
primrose, and many other flowers are visited by Bees. The
arable fields supply buckwheat, beans, mustard, clover,
and Lucerne, which all give an abundant supply of honey.
Borage has the reputation of being the best of all Bee
flowers. [t blossoms continually from June till November,
and is frequented by Bees, even in moist weather. The
honey from it is of superior quality, and an acre would
support a large number of stocks. In America much of
the great harvest of honey is obtained from the limes
and wild sage ; the Bee-keepers are also in the habit of
sowing the seeds of many well-known honey-yielding
plants on purpose for the use of the Bees.

Dwellers in the country cannot fail to have observed
02

196 ' A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

occasionally that the leaves of the trees and shrubs have
a gummy appearance, and are sticky to the touch. If a
leaf so covered be put to the tongue it will taste sweet ;
this is honey-dew, and is a secretion of some species of
aphides ejected from their abdomen in little squirting
streams. This substance the Bees readily gather, and
when it is abundant, make large additions to their stores.

In Scotland, and-on the Continent, cart-loads of hives
may be seen travelling to and from the heather. Often
on the spot they are looked after by some resident
cottager, who receives a gratuity of about Is. per hive
from the proprietors of the stocks. In the south of
England this practice is not pursued, although I do not
see why it should not be in many places, there being
miles of heather equally available as in Scotland. On
the Nile there are Bee-barges which travel only at night,
stopping in the daytime at any place that affords abund-
ant pasturage for the Bees; and we read in Pliny that
this was likewise the practice in Italy in his time. “As
soon,” says he, “as the spring food for Bees has failed in
the valleys near our towns, the hives of Bees are put into
boats and carried up against the stream of the river in
the night, in search of better pasture; the Bees go out
in the morning in quest of provisions, and return regu-
larly to their hives in the boats with the stores they have
collected ; this method is continued till the sinking of
the boats to a certain depth in the water shows that the
hives are sufficiently full, and they are then carried back
to their former homes, where their honey is taken out of
them.” And this is still the practice of the Italians who
live near the banks of the Po, the river which Pliny
instanced particularly in the above-quoted passage.

It was the advice of Celsus that after the vernal
pastures were consumed, the Bees should be transported

HONEY AND ITS SOURCES. 197

to places abounding with autumnal flowers, as was done
by conveying the Bees from Achosia to Attica, from
Eubcea, and the Cyclad Islands to Scyros, and also in
Sicily, where they were brought to Hybla from other
parts of the Island.

In the summer of 1878 a revival of this ancient practice
was attempted in America by Mr. C.O. Perrine, who fitted
up a travelling barge on the Mississippi with 800 stocks.
He intended to travel 2000 miles, following the flower-
bloom up the river; but from accidents to his machinery,
and the utter inexperience of such a scheme, his trip was
a partial failure, not sufficient, however, to deter him from
contemplating a future trial another year.

“Thou cheerful Bee ! come, freely come,
And travel round my woodbine bower ;
Delight me with thy wand’ring hum,
And rouse me from my musing hour.
Oh ! try no more those tedious fields,
My honied treasures all are thine ;
Come taste the sweets my garden yields,
The bud, the blossom, all are thine.” —SMYTH.

STINGS.

THE fear of being stung deters many people from keep-
ing Bees who otherwise would gladly avail themselves
of such an instructive and profitable occupation, and to
some persons the fear is well-founded ; for, although the
hardened Bee-keeper may treat with contempt the
alarm as puerile, the sting of a Bee will often produce a
painful and distressing temporary effect. As a satis-
faction to those who, in spite of the dreaded little
weapons, intend to become practical Bee-masters, I

198 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

may give them the ‘satisfaction of knowing that they
will soon get inured, and mind stinging not at all.
Many persons imagine on seeing a man handling Bees
with impunity that he is never stung. This is an error ;
the Bees do sting him, although not so often as they
would a timid stranger; but his blood is inoculated,
and the poison has become innoxious. My son,
when a lad of sixteen, had not meddled with Bees;
then, becoming often my assistant, he soon had to pay
the usual penalty, which was at first very severe. Great
swelling and inflammation, accompanied with pain, and
often an irritating rash would appear all over his body.
The effect of every successive sting became less and
less, until before the autumn closed, beyond a few
minutes’ irritation, there was no effect. Mr. G. Walker,
of Wimbledon, has recorded an experiment he made
on himself to try how long, and how many stings, it
would require to get inoculated. He gives the follow-
ing as the modus operandi and result, viz. :—

“T went to one of my hives, caught a Bee, placed it
on my wrist, and allowed it to sting me, taking care that
I received the largest amount of poison by preventing it
from going away at once; then I let the poison-bag
work, which it does for some time after being separated
from the Bee. The first day I only stung myself twice.
A Bee-sting has always had a very bad and injurious
effect on me, inasmuch as it has always caused a great
amount of swelling and of pain; in fact, once when
stung on my ear, the part became so painful and swollen
that I hardly got any sleep the following night, and it
was three days before I recovered. The first few stings
I got during this experiment had the usual effect; the
whole of my fore-arm was affected with a cutaneous
erysipelas, and there was disorder of the muscular nerves,

STINGS. 199

accompanied with heat, redness, swelling, and pain.
This attack lasted till Tuesday, and on Wednesday
(October 7th) I was so far recovered that, following the
same plan, I stung myself three times more also on
the wrist. The attack of erysipelas this time was not
nearly so severe ; but, as before, I felt a stinging sensation
as far up as my shoulder, and I noticed that a lymphatic
gland behind my ear had increased considerably in size,
the poison being taken up by the lymphatic system.
On Saturday (October roth) I again treated myself to
three stings, and the pain was considerably less, though
the swelling was still extensive. At the end of the next
week (October 17th) I had had 18 stings; then I stung
myself seven times more during the next week, and
I reached the number of 32 on October 31st; the
course of the experiment having lasted very nearly four
weeks. After the 20th sting there was very little swelling
or pain, only a slight itching sensation, with a small
amount of inflammation in the immediate neighbourhood
of the part stung, which did not spread further; and I
stung myself on November 8th, without its having any
effect on me.”

Bees, when properly handled, seem in a great measure
to know their masters. A nervous, fussy man, who
attempts to disarrange them or their works will most
certainly be attacked, whilst an adept in Bee-manage-
ment, who will do what he has to do, calm, steady, and
without fear, will mostly escape scot free. In removing
frames with their attendant Bees, if care be taken not to
jar them, or in any way to irritate the Bees unnecessarily,
they scarcely seem to object at all. It is true that, like
in our human hive, tempers vary, and some cantankerous,
spiteful little fellow may make a dash at any part of us
that is unprotected. If a person be attacked by Bees,

200 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

no attempt should be made to retaliate; the assailed
party should quickly retreat to the protection of a build-
ing or shady place, or, if none be near, lie down with his
face to the ground. An angry Bee will seldom follow
into the shade if the sun be shining. Violent winds
seem often to make the Bees very angry, by blowing
them about; but, as a rule, Bees do not volunteer an
attack without cause. Langstroth, amongst his Bee-
keepers’ axioms, says: “Bees gorged with honey never
volunteer an attack. Bees may always be made peace-
able by inducing them to accept of liquid sweets. Bees,
when frightened by smoke or by drumming on their
hives, fill themselves with honey, and lose all disposition
to sting unless they are hurt. Bees dislike any quick
movement about their hives, especially any motion which
jars their combs.”

Many devices in the shape of Bee-dresses, some very
ingenious, have been resorted to in order to protect the
wearer against being stung; but,
as in many other things, the sim-
plest is ofttimes best, and nothing
more is requisite than a veil and
gloves. An economical and very
good veil is coarse black leno,
costing fourpence per yard, made
into a bottomless bag, 27 inches
by 24 inches. In one end let
be run half a yard of elastic, not
too strong, which will complete
the veil for use, as in figure 74,
when on buttoning the coat up
all is secure. The veil may be
made at a cost of about sevenpence, and a duplicate
or two kept handy for the use of friends, when in-

STINGS. 201

specting one’s Apiary, becomes very useful. For the
hands, there is nothing better than good soft macintosh
gloves, lined with some textile fabric, such as are used
by photographers; but these require the addition of
gauntlets (which may be made of calico or silk) to cover
2 or 3 inches of the coat cuffs, held in place by elastic
run into their upper edge. Where the India-rubber
gloves are not procurable, stout woollen or leather may
be used, but are not so effectual; but an adept in Bee
culture soon looks with contempt upon gloves, and I
really think in my early Bee-keeping days when wearing
gloves I got oftener stung on the hands, through care-
lessness in securely fastening my gauntlets, than I now
do working with naked hands.

Thus equipped, the aspirant to Bee honours may bid
defiance to his angry little friends, and in time confidence
will be mutually established and, possibly, the gloves
presented to a more unpractised hand; but even with
the most experienced I should advise that the veil be
kept in constant use, for accidents will happen, and
stings about the eyes are never pleasant to any one.
The Queen, although provided with a sting, never uses
it, except in combat with another Queen; and it is
scarcely necessary to say that Drones have no sting at
all. Having been stung, the next consideration comes
how to cure it, or at least reduce the effect to a minimum
of discomfort. Many things are given as remedies, but
I have no faith in any, except a good soaking in warm
water in the manner most convenient. If the hands are
stung, lay them in a basin of hot water, the longer time
the better; if the face or other part,,foment or poultice.
When stung, remove the sting quickly, then, if possible,
warm the pipe of a small key and press it over the
puncture; a little drop of poison will, probably, appear,

202 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

which remove; then apply a single drop of liquor
potassz, sal volatile, or chloroform, or rub well with
sweet oil; either of these remedies will sometimes give
relief, but they are neither specifics.

REMOVING BEES.

IT often becomes needful to remove Bees either from
one garden to another, a new position in the same
garden, or when they are sold or otherwise disposed of,
perhaps the perils of a long journey will have to be
endured. If the position of a hive be changed even a
few feet, the Bees on returning home from their next
flight get bewildered, and ofttimes lost. They do not, as
one would think they would, readily discover their re-
moved hive, and in their distress will often enter a
neighbouring hive, when they are most inhospitably
received. Care must therefore be taken that no need-
less removal should be made, and when it is necessary
let the journey be made 2 or 3 feet at a time day by day.
Should this not be convenient, let the stock be carried
14 or 2 miles away, and left there for a week or two, then
it may be brought back and placed where desired with
safety.

Hives with Bees in them, travelling for six hours or
more, should always be carried mouth upwards, except
frame hives, where the crown-board can be removed, and
perforated zinc substituted. On a short journey, if the
hive be not removed from the floor-board, it should be
securely tied or nailed there, and perforated zinc be fixed
before the entrance, and over the feed-hole at top.
Swarms and stocks may be trusted for a few hours,

REMOVING BEES. 203

covered with cheese-cloth or open towelling, but the
Bees will gnaw through this if the journey be one of
days. Newly-made combs will not stand much shaking,
and these should only travel under the supervision of
some careful persons; for, should the combs be shaken
down, great destruction of Bees would ensue, and the
owner would have considerable trouble in rectifying the
mishap. When frame hives are sent away, two strips of
wood, with pieces nailed to them to go between the
frames to keep them apart, should be fastened over and
under the frames. When Bees are to be removed by
hand, they ride easily and safely on a light hand-barrow,
which may be made of a couple of light poles, crossed
by a few thick sticks. In hot weather it is not prudent
to send a large swarm far in an otherwise unfurnished
hive, the excitement causes the Bees to generate a great
heat, often sufficient to suffocate them all.

PREPARATION OF WAX.

HAVING employed the Bees to extract every particle of
honey from the combs, put the latter in a clean cloth,
which sink in a copper of hot water, interposing a plate
between the bundle and the bottom in order that the
cloth may not burn; simmer over a clear fire, and as the
wax melts, it will come to the top of the water, and may
be taken off in a cake when cold. If preferred, the
comb broken up small may be put into a saucepan of
water, boiled, and when melted poured into a flannel bag
also made hot and wet with boiling water; the melted
wax will run through into a tub of water. In order to
refine the wax the process will have to be repeated once

204 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

or twice until the wax is pure. The wax may be
bleached by running it into thin ribands and exposing
these to the bleaching action of a grass plat for several
days and nights, taking care the sun is not allowed to
melt them.

ROBBING.

“ HONESTY is the beste policy,” but Bees seem to think
the contrary, and “ might gives right” is a proverb more
often acted upon by them. Should a hive become weak,
and especially if Queenless, as soon as the state of affairs
be discovered by a neighbouring strong family, a raid is
organised. Poor Bees! gallantly do they defend their
stores, and great the slaughter that ensues, but numerical
strength is sure to conquer; when the assailed are fully
assured that resistance is in vain, they act very wisely,
and instead of fighting longer, turn to and help the
invaders to carry off the stores, and in reward are
received as new citizens in the free-booting hive. If a
hive which is known to be weak be discovered in a state
of unusual bustle and excitement, watch it narrowly;
and if fighting be going on nearly close up the entrance
for a few days, leaving room only for one or two Bees to
pass at a time; a narrow door is more easily defended
than a wide open gate. Should the assailants be very
pertinacious, wet a piece of tow or moss with carbolic
acid, and fasten it on the alighting board; the robbers
will be too disgusted to pass, but the defenders will brave
it. Fighting may often be ascribed to the Bee-keeper’s
carelessness in spilling honey or syrup round about a

‘

DRAINING HONEY FROM THE COMBS. 205

weak stock, which being discovered and appropriated by
stronger Bees, they soon seek for more plunder in the
same locality. The Rev. Mr. Kleine says, robbers may
be repelled by imparting to the hive some intensely
powerful and unaccustomed odour. He effects this by
placing in it in the evening a small portion of musk,
and on the following morning the Bees, if they have a
healthy Queen, will boldly meet their assailants. These
are nonplussed by the unwonted odour; and if any of
them enter the hive and carry off some of the coveted
booty, on their return home, having a strange smell, they
will be killed by their own household. The best remedy
against robbing is, however, to keep all stocks strong.

DRAINING HONEY FROM THE COMBS, AND HOW
TO MAKE USE OF IT.

WHERE the honey-comb is pure and white, as is usual
with combs built in supers, it is customary to send it to
table whole and without bruising; but when the combs
come from the main hive, where breeding has been going
on, the honey must be drained and stored as clean and
pure as possible. Having a mass of such combs before
us, it becomes advisable to sort them into qualities, all
such as have Bee-bread or larve being put aside, then
slice them transversely through the cells, and put them
in a hair sieve or fine linen bag, leave them so two or
three days, turning them over occasionally, and nearly all
the honey will run out; do not press or crush them, and
impurities will be avoided. The strained honey should
then be nicely skimmed, and the skimmings put with
the strained and waste combs to make metheglin of; or

206 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

should this not be desired, give the whole to the Bees in
a bottle or super over the feeding-hole and they will
carry down every particle of honey for their own sub-
sistence or their master’s necessities, should he determine
to appropriate their stores. The filtering and refining
will be done far better by the Bees than is possible by
any human means. The strained honey should be
poured into glass jars until they are guzte ful/, then tightly
tied over. Those honey-combs it is desired to reserve for
table use should be neatly wrapped up in writing-paper
and carefully put aside, the honey within the cells will be
found clear and limpid many months afterwards. The
pieces of combs, if any, containing brood should be
stacked the same way upwards as they were built, and
inserted in a small glass or super; this, if placed over the
feeding-hole of another hive, will be taken possession of
by the Bees from below, who will tend and rear the
young, whose lives may be thus preserved.

Bees will sometimes gather honey from objectionable
plants, of which laurel and ivy form examples; such
honey, although not harmful to the Bees, may be in-
tensely disagreeable to us. Where such is observed
prudence dictates that it should be left for the Bees’
own consumption.

HONEY—Iluscious honey—is generally a treat to our
little ones for their breakfast, tea, or supper, in place of
butter, and nice and wholesome it is too, as well as an
agreeable change; but, unlike bread and butter, they
soon tire of it, so it is only as a treat that it can be con-
sumed in that way. To the buyer of 10 pounds or
20 pounds this does not matter, but where we keep our
own Bees, and our little friends supply us with the
delicious commodity by the hundredweight, then an
important question arises—How to dispose of our honey?

DRAINING HONEY FROM THE COMBS. 207

Naturally the answer comes—Sell it. Very good, but
first a customer must be found, and we do not all like to
turn hawkers without a license; so now I suggest we
should take a lesson from our neighbours of the
Continent, who have many ways of using honey to please
all palates. Almost contemporaneous with our Crystal
Palace Exhibition were held at Paris and Copenhagen
gatherings of a similar character, and, in addition to
most of the exhibits that were shown here, appeared a
long list of eatables and drinkables made wholly or
partly with honey, which would be very welcome on the
tables of our own land. Taking the Paris catalogue, I
see there were shown honey bread, spiced bread, fruits
preserved in honey, jellies, sweetmeats, cakes, bonbons,
pastiles, and chocolates; whilst for eau de vie we need
not leave old England, seeing it is to be made both
from honey and wax! Then we have hydromel or
metheglin, champagne, red and white wines, liqueurs,
fruit syrups, vinegar, and fruit cordials. There is a
pretty list of delicacies for our housewives to exercise
their ingenuity and skill upon!
RECIPES. — METHEGLIN OR HONEY WINE.—When
the comb has been drained of its honey, put it in a large
vessel, then pour in sufficient lukewarm water to swim it
nicely. Let it stand two days, stir occasionally, then
strain it. Skim the scum from the liquor carefully, filter
the sediment through a flannel bag, then boil one hour,
and add three gallons :—two pounds raisins, one ounce
of ground ginger, and seven or eight laurel leaves, then
cool. Add a little brewer’s yeast, let it stand part of a
day, then barrel it, leaving the barrel open for two or
three days; bung it up, and let it remain untouched for
six months, then bottle it. I daresay some who try their
hands at making this honey drink will be anxious to

208 'A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

taste before the expiration of the six months, but the
longer it is kept the better it will be. If an egg will
float on the liquor it will be about the’right strength.
Metheglin may, of course, be made from run-honey ;
but by soaking the combs in water we utilize the honey
which would otherwise be lost. A little lump sugar put
in each bottle will make it as fine as brandy.

ANOTHER.—Boil for one hour 20 pounds of honey in
six gallons of water, and remove the scum as it rises ;
then add 3 ounces of hops and strain to cool. When
milkwarm stir in a tablespoonful of yeast, and let it work
24 hours; skim off the yeast and put the liquor ina
barrel; fill up daily as it works over, bung down, and
bottle for 12 months, adding half a wineglassful of
brandy to each bottle. The result is a very clear drinking
vinus liquor.

HONEY CAKES.—Mix a quart of strained honey with
half a pound of powdered white sugar, half a pound of
fresh butter, and the juice of two oranges or lemons.
Warm these ingredients slightly, just enough to soften
the butter, and then stir the mixture very hard, adding
a grated nutmeg. Mix in gradually two pounds or less
of sifted flour, make it into a dough just stiff enough to
roll out easily, and beat it well all over with a rolling-
pin ; then roll it out into a large sheet half an inch thick,
cut it into round cakes with the top of a tumbler dipped
frequently in flour, lay them in shallow tin pans slightly
buttered, and bake them.

GERMAN HONEY-CAKES.—Take 31 pounds of flour,
13 pounds of honey, $ a pound of sugar, 4 a pound of
butter, grate half a nutmeg, 3 of an ounce of ginger,
z Of an ounce of carbonate of soda; roll them, cut into
small cakes, and bake in a hot oven.

AMERICAN HONEY-CAKE.—1 pound of honey, 3 a

RECIPES. 209

pound of butter, 2 ounces of sugar, two eggs, one or two
table-spoonfuls of milk or cream; then to a quart of
flour put two large tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder, and
mix sufficient of this prepared flour to make the paste
stiff as pound cake. Bake thin layers in tins, taking
care not to over bake.

ANOTHER. — Soak three cups of dried apples over
night, chip slightly, and simmer in a pint of honey for
two hours; then add three quarters of a pint more honey,
3 of a pound of sugar, 3 a pound of melted butter, three
eggs, two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder ; flavour with
cloves, cinnamon, powdered lemon, or orange-peel, or
ginger. Mix all together with enough flour to make a stiff
batter; make into two cakes, and bake in a slow oven.

Honey PUDDING.—Three pints of thinly-sliced apples,
one pint of honey, one pint of maize-meal, small piece
of butter, one tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, the
juice of two lemons and their grated rinds. Stir the
dry soda into the honey; then add the apples, melted
butter, and a little salt; now add the lemon-rind and
juice, and at once stir in the flour. Bake one hour;
serve hot or cold with sauce.

HONEY VINEGAR is made as follows: “Put 4 a pound
of honey to a quart of water, boiling hot ; mix well, and
expose to the greatest heat of the sun without closing
vessel containing it, but sufficiently so to keep out
insects. In about six weeks this liquor becomes acid
and changes to strong vinegar, and of excellent quality.
The broken combs, after being drained, may be put in
as much water as will float them, and well washed.
The linens, also, and sieves which have been used for
draining honey, may be rinsed in the same water, and
with this make the vinegar; first boil and scum it before
mixing it with the honey.

P

210 A MANUAL OF BEE-KEEPING.

To CLARIFY HoONEY.—Melt the honey in a vessel
standing in boiling water, strain, while hot, through
flannel previously moistened with warm water.

Honey is prescribed by the medical council of Great
Britain for use in the following pharmaceutical prepara-
tions, viz.: Confection of pepper ; confection of scam-
mony; confection of turpentine, honey and _ borax ;
oxymel of squills, and simple oxymel.

THE END.

ABBOTT’s observatory hive
Adapting boards
Advantages of artificial swarming
After-swarms
Alexandra hive
American honey-cakes
5 smokers

Artificial pollen

>» swarms, to make
Aston’s Bee-trap

3, Drone-trap
Autumn feeding

BARLEY sugar
Bee-houses ..

3 hinting

3, louse (Braula C 28)
Bee poison, inoculation by
Bee-shows ...
Bee-trap, Aston’s

55 five pin

», traps

sy veil

s» glasses for Sapers
Bees on the Nile
Bligh’s smoker
Bottle-feeder :
British Bee-keeper’s aseactatian

CAGES, Queen

Cakes, honey
Carniolian Bees
Carr-Stewarton hive ...

( 211 )

141,

212

Carr’s Queen cage
Cheshire hive

»» nucleus hive
Cheshire’s five pin Bee-trap
~ 4, feeding stage

xy» smoker

35 transferring board
Children and Bees
Chilled brood
Clipping Queen’s wings
Cocoons ...
Cold, effects of
Comb foundation

5 fixing
33 machine

Combs, construction of
Commencing Bee-keeping
Contents
Cottage frame-hive
Covering for hives
Cowan’s honey-extractor
Crates for filled Supers
Crown boards
Cup Queen cage...
Cure for foul brood ...
Cures for stings

DEVELOPMENT of Bees
Diseases of Bees
Dissection of a Queen
Distance Bees can fly
Draining honey from combs
Dressing hives
Drive, how to ve
Driven Bees, how to feed
Driving appliances

», time required for
Drone breeding Queens
Drone eggs ia

», trap, Aston’s ...
Drones, length of life of

x» Massacre of ...

INDEX.

INDEX. 213

Drone, office of ae se its ee sei we 18
Dysentery ... sie Hae bie 8 i we 185

EFFEcTs of stinging shes sind ahs wits a 198
Eggs Re ah a iy
y»» number a Queen will lay ss ees oe 12, 135
Egyptian Bees aor sh aa or tie we 158
Ekes es ai ahs art sie wes ae 99
Encasement of Queens 93 gi aie ais ie: DS
Enemies... sR ss si sin wii .. 186
Exchanging Queens ... ee a ae aa we 159
Extracting honey... aa is Sas a we T22
Extractor, Cowan’s honey is 8 es = aa AZT

FEED, quantity to at 2H sacs ai we 135
» When to ee ae ae ane dis nic TESS
Feeder, the bottle sia sa oer a ws 132
Feeding-stage, Cheshire’s on wi wi i ae, 132)
ry swarms sive oes wir pon eo me 59
Fertile workers os ee aise sy oe ox 17
Fertility of Queen... cab a a Be die Pe 3
Fertilization of the Queen __... = a sei 9
Fighting of Queens ... site ea we ahs wa 192
Five pin Bee-trap... hee sis a .. 146
Flight of the Queen ... jue 43 ach WV eo ie 7
Foreign Bee-keeping ners ig a eee v.40
aa Bees ign ge ae a ake v 156
Foul brood oe ae ad das sin .. 180
- cure for eo sia sit is a. 183
Frame hives ees a 40 te ae .. 80
‘3 advantages of... ae ue i in = 92

a5 cost of ais ta ara a we “92

9 invention of say ei sag a var ~ YE

53) objections to ad a ie dis stan 92
Frames, sizes of ee ‘i Sea ‘oa Bin a. «81
Fuel for smokers... fae ‘s a ‘i we 154

GERMAN honey-cakes sa ws are oes v. 208
Gloves Ai sie sit iy ‘ibe ise ... 201

Guide-combs san ie cag iva side iene MGT,

HACKLE, straw gy na wa die, os . 76

214 INDEX.

Handling Bees

Hanging out :

Hive, Abbott’s Observatory
»» Alexandra
x» Carr Stewarton

», Cheshire’s Crystal Palace Prize ...

»» common cottage straw ...

» cottage frame

+5 covers é

» Neighbour’s improved cottage

” ” Woodbury observatory

»» Pettigrew’s
»» Stewarton

1, Woodbury
Hives

» frame

x, straw

Hiving natural swarms
Honey, amount gathered
» asacurative agent

», cakes

x» dew on

»» extractor, Cowan’s
yy Hora

» how gathered.

»» how to make use of
» pudding

sy sources of

»» to clarify

», todrain

» Vinegar

Huber, Francis Bie ae ee

Hungarian Bees

IMPORTATION of Queen Bees
Impregnation of the Queen
Inoculation by Bee poison
Insectivorous birds as enemies
Introducing strange Queens
Italian Bees ye

Kineo’s Bee-keepers’ text book

v1 209
1939 195
210

205

209

39

158

155
7, 162
198
188
126

157

170

INDEX.

Knife for extracting

LENGTH of life of worker
Ligurian Bees
Ligurianize an Apiary, to
London, Bees in

Loss of Queen, to remedy

MANIPULATING

Metheglin

Mice as enemies

Movable combs, first use of

NADIRS_...
Natural history of the Bee

or swarming, v, artificial

+3 swarms sive
Neighbour’s improved cottage hive

ae Woodbury sia hive

Nile, Bees on the ae
Novice’s smoker st
Nucleus hive, how to stock a ...
Nucleus hives

OBSERVATORY hives .
$9 hive, Abbotts oe
“ Neighbour’s Woodlury «
Occupation of Bees si
Old combs, use of
Opinions of the Press
Ovaries

PARTHENOGENESIS ...
Pea-flour for artificial pollen
Perforated zinc for Supers
Pettigrew’s hive er
Pharmaceutical preparations of honey Sy
Piping of Queens :
Pollen
+ artificial
»» basket
»» how gathered el stored.

124,

141,

143

216 INDEX.

Preface
Profit
Propolis
sy uses of
Pudding, honey

QUEEN breeding

» «cages

3 cells

», impregnation of
Queenlessness, how remedied ...
Queens fighting

», introducing strange

»- origin of

» releasing caged

», sting

to hatch

Quicting Bees
Quilts

RELEASING caged Queens
Remedies for stings
Remedy for foul brood
Removing Bees

Renfrewshire Bee-keepers’ Queen cage ‘ :

Ringing Bees
Robbing... eee
»» how to stop

Royal jelly

SALICYLIC acid.
Second swarms
Section frames
Sectional Supers
ee cost of
Senses of Bees
Separating mixed swarms
Separators, tin
Shaking Bees out of skep
‘Shelter for hives
Shows, Bee dy aed
Skeps aes ie iy

66, 69,

Smoke aid
Smoker, Cheshire’s ...
ay Novice’s
Sources of honey
Spermatheca
Spring feeding
Stands for hives
Stewarton hive
Sticks in skeps
Sting of the Queen
Stinging, effects of ...
Stings, remedies for ...
Stocking frame hives
Subduing Bees
Supers, how to rid them of Bees
»» When to put on
+» weight of filled
Swarming, indications of
Swarms, artificial
a issuing of
ay natural
~ weight of
Syrup, to make te

TEMPERATURE for hatching
Time to keep Queens confined

Tin separators toe one
Tongue ar Si
Transfer, how to ied

Transfer, when to és
Transferring-board, Cheshire s

5 combs and Bees
Twin nucleus frames

UNITING swarms
Utilization of Queen cells

VALUE of Bees
Varieties of Bees
Veil

Ventilation
Vinegar, honey

INDEX,

193,

49,

218 INDEX.

Wasrs)... ia
‘Wax moths
»» to bleach
3, to prepare
» value ot
Weight of swarms
Wild Bees
Wildman, Daniel
Woodbury hive
Workers, development of
»» length of life of

Younc Bees, how to distinguish

168

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS OF
THE FIRST EDITION.

“Tt is profusely illustrated with engravings, which are almost
always inserted for their utility. * »* * * »* Thereisan
old saying that ‘easy writing is hard reading,’ but we will not say
thus much of Mr. Hunter’s book, which, taken as a whole, is perhaps
the most generally useful of any now published in this country.”
—The Field.

“In Mr. Hunter’s book, there are many most interesting chapters
on the History of Bees, their wonderful structure, ways, and habits,
which the more they are looked into the more marvellous they
appear. The profitable keeping of Bees is also fully gone into, and
we are given many curious items respecting Bee-keeping in different
countries.” — Weekly Times.

“Mr. Hunter’s instructions are simple and practical. He c%scusses
fully the various forms of hives and the best method of treatment
of Bees, urging strongly the advantage of large and well stocked
hives. Wecan warmly recommend this little book to all who have
a country garden, however small.’’—Standard,

“The author of this exceedingly useful manual is the Honorary
Secretary of the British Beekeepers’ Association, and as such, is
thoroughly well up in the subject on which he writes so pleasantly,
and concerning which, he has collected so much valuable inform-
ation from other writers. The little volume is unpretentious and
interesting, Mr. Hunter’s object being to convey to his readers the
fullest and most practical information on Bee-keeping, rather than
to air his own knowledge, or to present himself as a very learned
authority. He freely admits having given extracts from other
authors, but it is only fair to a modest and delightful writer to,say
that his book is comprehensive, capitally arranged, and though
hastily compiled, nowhere exhibits carelessness, either in style or
subject matter.’’—Pudblic Opinion,

“We honestly and conscientiously declare we have been both
surprised and delighted with Mr. Hunter’s work. Mr. Hunter
deservedly merits the thanks of British Bee-keepers for his book,

220 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.

and we have long wondered why no one could be found sufficiently
bold to take up the subject of Bee-keeping in an interesting and
readable manner, so as to be attractive to the working Bee-man of
this country, and at the same time to be within reach of their purse 5
but we can now recommend them to secure the Manual of Bee-
keeping, which meets a want long felt. Many chapters contain new
thoughts and ideas, which we hope will act as a stimulus when
placed under good influences, and bring forth abundant fruit. Myr.
Hunter has done his best to bring his knowledge up to date, and as
he has most worthily completed his self-imposed task we trust he
will.be honoured, as he richly deserves to be, by a new edition soon
being called for.’—Gardener’s Chronicle.

‘We cordially recommend Mr. Hunter’s neat and compact Manual
of Bee-keeping; Mr. Hunter writes clearly and well.”—Scéence
Gossip.

“We are indebted to Mr. J. Hunter, Honorary Secretary of the
British Bee-keepers’ Association. His Manual of Bee-keeping, just
published, is full to the very brim of choice and practical hints, fully
up to the most advanced stages of Apiarian Science, and its perusal
has afforded us so much pleasure that we have drawn somewhat
largely from it for the benefit of our readers.” —Bee-keeper's Maga-
zine (New York),

“While practical lessons are invaluable, they by no means render
the learner independent of good text books, and amongst these has
appeared one by Mr. John Hunter, who, less ambitious to claim
originality than to place in our hands a really useful manual, has
pressed into his service, wherever practicable, the best authorities
upon the specialties under consideration. The only Palace show
yet held, brought to the front so much that was both new and use-
ful, that scientific Bee-culture rather advanced a leap than a step,
and existing works were to some extent rendered obsolete. The
progress then made has been embodied in the book before us, which
is, on the whole, for those who desire to be made au courant with
the Apiculture of the day, the best we yet possess.’ —7he Country.

“That Mr. Hunter’s volume will soon reach to another edition
we have no doubt, for it is a careful condensation, well arranged,
of all the knowledge requisite for successful Bee-keeping. The
volume is illustrated by many well-executed woodcuts.”—Fournal
of Horticulture and Cottage Gardener, May 20th, 1875.

CLAY AND TAYLOK, PRINTERS, BUNGAY.

A CATALOGUE

OF WORKS ON

Sclence and Art,
Natural History,

General Literature.

PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY

DAVID BOGUE.

Jeandon:
3, ST. MARTIN’S PLACE, TRAFALGAR SQUARE,
1879.

a.
4

aD

Mr. DAVID BOGUE begs to announce that
he has removed the business, which since the
decease of Mr. Hardwicke he has carried on at
192, Piccadilly under the style of HARDWICKE AND
Bocur, to more commodious premises at No. 3,
St. Martin’s PLacz, TRAFALGAR SQUARE, W.C.

After this date the business will be continued
» in the name of Mr. Davip Bocue only.

Fuly 1, 1879.

INDEX OF SUBJECTS.

AcrostTics.—See Acrostics.
ANGLING.—See Dick.
ANIMALS.—Sce Lankester (E.)
ANTIQUARIAN,—See Jewitt, Wal-
ford. [Taylor.
AQuaRIUM.—See Science Gossip,
ARCHITECTURE.—See Vincent.
ART.—Sce Bayliss, Heaphy, Zerffi.
ASTRONOMY.—SeeDarby, Popular
Science Review, Proctor.
ATHLETIC TRAINING.—Sce Ex-
ercise, Michod.
BEES.—See Hunter, Jardine.
BIOGRAPHY. — See Cash, Dra-
matic List,
Brrps.—See Ornithology.
BoTANy.—See Braithwaite, Car-
rington, Cooke, De Crespigny,
Economic, Edgeworth, Gatty,
Hooker, Lankester (Mrs.), Lon-
don, Lowe, Midland Naturalist,
Nave, Notes on Collecting,
Popular Science Review, Rob-
son, Schleiden, Science Gossip,
Smith (J.), Smith (W.), Sower-
by, Spicer, Taylor, Trimen,
Tripp, Wooster.
CHEMISTRY.—See Brande and
Taylor, Popular ScienceReview.
CHILDREN.—See Barker.
ConcHOLoGy.—See Conchology
(Journal of), Notes on Collect-
ing, Tate.

CRUIKSHANK.— See Chamisso.

Docs. —See Smith (C. H.)

DRAMATIC.—See Pascoe.

EDUCATION.—See Pascoe.

ELEctRIC LIGHTING.—SeeShool-
bred.

ENTOMOLOGY. — See Duncan,
Midland Naturalist, Morris,
Naturalist’s Library, Newman,
Notes on Collecting, Science
Gossip.

Eye (THE).—See Angell, Dud-
geon.

FERNS. — See Eaton, Lankester
(Mrs.), Lowe, Smith (J.).

FIsH.—Sce ICHTHYOLOGY,

FOoLK-LorE.—See Dyer.

Foop.—See Johnson, Lankester.

FRENCH LANGUAGE.—See Blin-
court.

GENEALOGY.— See Walford.

GEOLOGY.—See Ansted, Eyton,
Geologist, Kinahan, Midland
Naturalist, Notes on Collecting,
Science Gossip, Symonds,
Taylor.

HERALDRY.—See Elvin.

HISTORY.—See Mangnall.

HORSE AND RIDING.—See How-
den, Smith (C. H.), Waite.

HORTICULTURE.—See Burbidge
Hibberd, Lowe, Maund,
Newton, Pomona,

4 Index of Subjects.

HyGiene.—See Granville, Health
Primers, Lankester (E.), Lan-
kester (Mrs.)

ICHTHYOLOGY. — See Bushnan,
Capel, Couch, Hamilton, Jar-
dine, Naturalist’s Library,
Schomburgk, Science Gossip.

INSECTS.—See Entomology.

Knots.—Sée Book of Knots.

Law.—sSce Forbes, Geach.

MAN.—See Sharpe, Smith (C.H.)

MEDICINE, &c, — See Granville,
Fleischmann, Dewar, Schaible.

Microscopy. — See Braithwaite,
Cooke, Davies, Edwards, How
to Choose, Kent, Lankester,
Midland Naturalist, Nave, Phin,
PopularScienceReview, Quekett,
Schmidt, Science Gossip.

MINERALOGY. — See Popular
Science Review. [nard.

NATURAL SCIENCE.—See Bar-

NEEDLE-WoRK.—See Trotter.

OoLocy.—Sece Morris, Notes on
Collecting.

ORNITHOLOGY.—See Bree, Jar-
dine, Martin,Morris, Naturalist’s
Library, Science Gossip, Selby,
Swainson, Wilson.

PHILOSOPHY.—Sce Butler,

PHOTOGRAPHY. — See
hoven, Russell.

Monk-

Puysics.—See Popular Science
Review.

PuysIoLoGy.—See Lankester.

POETRY.—Sce Baddeley, Barclay,
Bennoch, Changed Cross,
Crown of Life, Crawley, For-
sayth, Idyls, Sharpe.

PROFESSIONS.—Sce Pascoe,

REPTILES.—See Cooke.

SCIENCE MADE EAsy. — See
Twining.

SHOOTING.—See How to Use,
Shooting.

SPIRITUALISM.—See Zerffi.

SPORTING.—Sce Mason.

THAMES (THE).—See Up the
River.

TosBacco.—See Steinmetz.

TRAVELLERS (HINTS FOR).—See
Boner, Lord.

WATCHES AND CLOCKS.—See
Benson.

WILD FLOWERS.—See Lankester
(Mrs.)

WINDS AND TIDES.—See Jordan.

Woman.—See Cresswell.

ZOOLOGY.—See Hamilton, Jar-

dine, Macgillivray, Midland
Naturalist, Mivart, Naturalist’s
Library, Popular Science

Review, Science Gossip, Smith
(C.), Taylor, Waterhouse,

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ALCOHOL: Its Use and Abuse. Royal 16mo, cloth, price
Is. See Health Primers, page 29.

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NEWMAN, EDWARD, F.Z.8.

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