" Fae aatisetariti he i ih ite Nae W i +). " i ‘ i sybeatatita identity flit Ene MM aia tanita a cnt i einai palais sri i it i Hat iy ae taehd a Me rit i eit : a Dut ia ati bel Abenieast iar VRRP aa ae Haine cet aa aide i : if Hie ul] Belleney ae a esisishes engl prgtetet Rew Pork Htate College of Agriculture At Cornell Gnibersity Bthaca, A. P. Librarp Cornell University Library Daffodils, narcissus, and how to grow th Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http:/Awww.archive.org/details/cu31924003114919 DAFFODILS NARCISSUS AND HOW TO GROW THEM Prate I A CENTURY-OLD FIELD OF DAFFODILS On the old Lalor homestead near Trenton, N, J., the old English trumpet daffodil (N. Pseudo-Narcissus) has been growing wild for a hundred years. When com- fortably naturalised, the season of flowering is somewhat earlier than in ordinary garden cultivation and there is always bloom in this field by the 25th of March DAFFODILS NARCISSUS AND HOW TO GROW THEM As Hardy Plants and for Cut Flowers With a Guide to the Best Varieties _ By A. M. KIRBY ILLUSTRATED GARDEN CITY NEW YORK DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 1914 CoryricHT, 1907, By DousBtEpay, Pace & ComPANY PUBLISHED, AUGUST, 1907 Aut Ricuts RESERVED INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE ‘I, Old-time and Modern Daffodils and Narcissus. 3 II. Daffodils in the Guten Hardest 17 III. Flowering Daffodils in Winter. 47 IV. Water Culture in the House. 63 ~V. The Commercial Production of Cut Flowers. 70 VI. Naturalising in the ‘Gus. 81 VII. Miniature Daffodils for the oo Garden. 90 VIIT. The One Insect and Gis Disa, 93 IX. Straightening Daffodil Nomenclature and Classification. . 98 X. The Large Trumpet Daffodils. . IIL XI. The Lesser Trumpet, Hoop-Petti- coat and Cyclamen-flowered Daffodils. 7 7 . 141 XII. The Medium-crown Hivbiids, - 148 XIII. The Pheasant’s Eye and Poet’s Hybrid Narcissus. : . 170 XIV. The Sweet-scented Jonquils and Campernelles. . 180 XV. The Tender Tn | Nar- Cissus. - 183 . The Hardy Cie awenk Nar- 4 192 cissus. DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS CHAPTER PAGE XVII. Double Daffodils and Narcissus of all Groups. . ‘ j . 196 XVIII. Some Autumn Flowering Species. 206 XIX. Hybridising and Raising from Seed. 208 Appendix. A Key to the Daffodils. , . 255 Index. eo ‘ 3 é - A 2 227 PLATE ILLUSTRATIONS . A Century-old Field of Daffodils (C. M. Whitney). Frontispiece. FACING PAGE II. An Ideal Planting (J. H. Me- Farland). ‘ 10 Ill. The Importance of Massing (H. G. Taylor). . Il IV. Types of Flowers (4. M. Kiros). 14 V. Planting in the Herbaceous Border (Henry Troth). . 28 VI. The Poet’s Narcissus Naturalised (N. R. Graves). . 29 VII. A Few Good Bulbs (4. M. Kirby). 44 VIII. Daffodils for the Window Garden (4. M. Kirby). . 45 IX. Paper-white Narcissus as a Parlour Plant (Van Wagner). 76 X. Commercial Cultivation in Flats (H. E. Angell). F ee /7) XI. Commercial Production of Cut Flowers (H. E. Angell). 2 92 XII. A Flat of Flowers Ready for Cut- ting (H. E. Angell). 93 XIII. The Poet’s Narcissus in Landscape Effect (J. H. McFarland). . 108 XIV. Poet’s Narcissus Naturalised in a Lawn (4. R. Dugmore). 109 XV. Trumpet Daffodils Naturalised (Henry Troth). . 124 XVI. All-yellow Trumpet Daffodil (A. M. Kirby). 3 ‘ . 125 XVII. All white Trumpet Daffodil (A. M. Kirby). . 156 XVIII. XIX. XX, XXI. XXII. XXITI. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVIII. XXVIII. XXIX, XXX, XXXI,. XXXII. DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS Medium crown, or Cup Daffodil (N. seeepace ite (N. R. Graves). ‘ Narcissus Barii cougpieaus WW. R. Graves). The Hoop- petticoat Daffodils, Narcissus Leedsii varieties (N. R. Graves). F ° . Narcissus Nelsoni_ and N. Back- housei (H. E. Angell). . Narcissus Leedsii and N. Burbidgei (H. E. Angell). . Single and Double Narcissus i incom- parabilis (H. &. Angell and J. H. McFarland). . , . Big and Little Daffodils ens Troth) Narcissus poetics and fie new hardy, cluster-flowered N. poetaz (H. E. Angell). < : Narcissus tridimus, var. Cloth of Gold (H. E. Angell), . ‘ Campernelle or Jonquil (N. R. Graves). A Polyanthus Narcissus, N. Tazet- ta (N. R. Graves). Two Dainty Flowers (H. E. Angell). F Types of Double Van Sian Daffo- dils (H. E. Angell). Wild Narcissus in Bermuda (4. M. Kirby). : DAFFODILS NARCISSUS AND HOW TO GROW THEM CHAPTER I OLD-TIME AND MoDERN DAFFODILS AND NARCISSUS The largest flowers of early spring—Universal adaptation— The homes of the wild species—Some early history—A word as to prices—The daffodil in legend and verse— What is a daffodil or a narcissus? THE narcissus and daffodil have long been the most world-widely popular of all spring flowering bulbous plants. It is not alone the individual and collective beauty of their flow- ers that endears them to our hearts but the bravery of their advent, for “‘the time of the daffodil” closes the gates on bleak winter and ushers in, with trumpets of gold, longed-for spring. It is true that these flowers may have been preceded by those of snowdrops, scillas, cro- cus, etc., with their boisterous weather accom- paniments, but the awakening of the daffodils —among the earliest of the important flowers of a new season—means the advent of mild and genuine spring. 4 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS What pleasurable associations the very mention of their names uncurtains among those of us who have been fortunate enough to be brought up in “old-fashioned garden” environment. We recall our annual spring de- light in watching the sturdy development from mother earth—almost before winter’s snow had melted—of groups of spear-like leaves, followed by big, fat buds that soon unsheathed their blossoms of silver and gold. WHERE TO GROW THEM The narcissus and daffodils may be success- fully grown in so many locations, and under so many different conditions of soil, and cli- mate, that we need scarcely ask ‘“‘where may they be grown?” Their freedom from cul- tural complications is, indeed, one of their chief merits. With the exception of a few of the Mediterranean and Oriental types that love warm, dry hillsides or well-drained rockeries, the great majority of varieties is nearly as hardy as rocks, and will grow, thrive and flower almost anywhere—in garden beds, in herbaceous borders and shrubberies, in grassy turf of lawn, meadow or woodland, OLD-TIME AND MODERN 5 year after year, without any special care. Of course congenial soil, location and culture will produce better results than conditions less congenial; deep, cool, well-drained, sandy loam, in a semi-shaded situation, being the desideratum, but, like grass, they will ex- ist almost anywhere, flourishing most luxuri- antly when especially well placed. Correct garden culture produces the finest individual flowers, though the collective wealth of beauty of a colony naturalised on a grassy slope or stream-side bank is a feast for the eye. But it is not exclusively in the open ground that narcissus and daffodils may be grown, flowered and enjoyed. Most of them (the very latest flowering sorts only excluded) are amenable to artificial cultural conditions; that is, they may be flowered during the winter in conservatory, greenhouse or window, in pots, pans or flats of soil, and some of them even in nothing more than a bowl of moss or gravel and water. NARCISSUS AND DAFFODILS IN THE WILD Many wild forms of narcissus and datto- dil, with their crosses, are still to be found 6 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS in their original locations. The typical nar- cissus, or small-cupped poeticus and Tazetta types, are indigenous to regions bordering the Mediterranean, their centre being in Greece and Italy; some of the cluster-flowered Ta- zettas (better known as polyanthus narcis- sus) are wild in the Orient as far as Asia; the trumpet narcissus or true daffodils are mostly found wild in Great Britain and Western Europe. These three important species, with a few sub-species of lesser importance, slowly spreading inch by inch, annually, by offshoot or seed, over mountain and through valley— wherever conditions invited—often met; and as all wild, single-flowering narcissus produce seed, the different types sometimes crossing when in proximity and in flower at the same time, they have thus blended and given rise to mixed descendants—natural hybrids, some of which resemble one parent, some the other. Occasionally the offspring or hybrid would be so different from either parent that a new wild type was produced. In addition to the above causes of variety in wild narcissus and daffodils, other natural OLD-TIME AND MODERN 7 influences have assisted in typifying several forms. ‘Particularly responsible for this are local conditions of soil, climate, altitude and season—for environment moulds character and fixes types through the survival of the fittest. All of these wild types, by the way, are favourites for naturalising, as they show no deterioration under such conditions, as do the larger flowering modern garden hybrids when grown wild. The first gardens that people had were composed of medicinal herbs, then were added a few things good to eat, and after- wards pretty plants to embellish. Among the first chosen flowering plants for gardens were narcissus and daffodils. In some gardens, a number of collected kinds were grown, which sometimes resulted in ‘‘garden crosses” and the production of new forms and varieties. Occasionally, new kinds of marked beauty or distinctiveness would be raised. These pleas- ing surprises, added to the intrinsic value of the narcissus as garden flowers, fanned the interest of cultivators into such a glow that some cultivators eventually learned to arti- ficially cross different types and even become 8 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS expert in producing definite results. But it was not until the last century that any great strides were thus made. In the year 1548 Turner is supposed to have described all then known sorts—numbering twenty-four—in “4 Few Narcissus of Dieverse Sortes.”” A hun- dred years later species, sub-species and their varieties had apparently increased to ninety- four, according to John Parkinson in his “Paradisus Terrestris.” Between 1840 and 1860, two English ama- teurs, William Backhouse, banker of Darling- ton, and Edward Leeds, stockbroker of Man- chester, did some remarkably good work in hybridising narcissus and daffodils. ‘The col- lections of seedlings of these two gentlemen have been largely responsible for increasing popular interest in the cultivation and cross- ing of narcissus and daffodils during recent years. Among other devotees who have also done good work are Messrs. Barr, Burbidge, Engleheart, Hume and Nelson, all of whom have been honoured by having groups, or type sections, named after them. Daffodils had become so popular that in. 1884 the Royal Horticultural Society of Eng- OLD-TIME AND MODERN 9 land organised a great conference in London, and a permanent committee was appointed to take cognisance of new varieties of daffodils and make suitable awards to the more merit- orious. The daffodil craze was now on in earnest, and its impetus has increased con- tinuously ever since. Scores of rival enthusi- asts in Europe and Great Britain grow and cross daffodils and exhibit their flowers every year. Very high prices are paid for bulbs of particularly choice varieties, many of which cannot be purchased for less than ten dollars to twenty-five dollars per bulb, and a few of the very rare are worth as much as fifty dollars, and even one hundred dollars, per bulb. More than that, there are some daffodils that may never be seen by the outside world, for a coterie of six wealthy daffodil lovers in England buys up the bulbs of any new varie- ty of exceptional beauty and merit—if none have escaped into commerce—paying extra- vagant prices for the sole ownership of the coveted beauties, from $500 to $2,000 sometimes being expended by these enthusiasts for five or six bulbs. One of the compacts of Io DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS this close club is that at the demise of any member, his or her bulbs are to be distributed among the remaining members of the monop- olistic band. In practical America, the daffodil fever has not, as yet, reached so acute a stage. Old, standard varieties, costing from a dollar and fifty cents to ten dollars per hundred bulbs, generally satisfy the esthetic tastes of our flower lovers. It is noticed, however, that some of the more progressive bulb importers are cataloguing a few of the newer and bet- ter kinds, and their answers to our inquiries indicate that there is a growing demand for choicer varieties, costing from fifty cents to one dollar per bulb. At such prices, and even for much less, hundreds of beautiful varieties, creditable rep- resentatives from all type sections, are pro- curable, so that worthy collections may eco- nomically be made. Indeed, it is advisable to begin with moderate-priced varieties, for the higher points of the improved and more ex- pensive sorts may not be fully appreciated at first by the uninitiated. But in a year or two the beginner is educated to note the Prate II AN IDEAL PLANTING Daffodils are most happily placed when grouped in clumps in the foreground of a mixed shrubbery border. Most varieties of the medium-crown type give satisfaction in all sort of conditions. (Narcissus Barrii, var. conspicuus) (dosage * AY) “SyJUOUT 2214} Jo polsed & z9AO paptayxa aq Ted Japsog ay} Jo ssouIysIIG aq} ‘SoTjaLIvA FULMOY-I]L] pur Uosvas-plul ‘A]Iv9 ayy Jo Sdnoid BulpsurusayUI Aq = “Fpas} Aq sassevul UT AplIPA Iva JUR[T ONISSVW JO FAONVLUYOdWI AHL III tv1g OLD-TIME AND MODERN II points of superiority in the higher grades, and is led on to other indulgences. THE NARCISSUS OF OLDEN TIMES That narcissus, the ancient, small cupped and cluster-flowered sorts, were prized be- fore history was recorded, is evidenced by wreaths of their flowers being unearthed from tombs made hundreds of years before the Christian era. That the popularity of nar- cissus increased with civilisation is indicated by old Greek and Roman writings. It is nearly 2000 years since Virgil’s ““Empurpled Narcissus” was penned, and about 1,500 years ago that Mohammed said ‘“‘He that hath two cakes of bread, let him sell one of them, for bread is only food for the body, but narcis- sus is food for the Soul.” Ovid, about the year I, poetically crystalizes an ancient legend of the birth of Narcissus, the substance of which is as follows: Narcissus, a beautiful youth, was so impervious to the loving ad- vances of Echo and other suitors that Nemesis answering their prayers for vengeance, caused Narcissus to pine away in silent admiration of 12 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS his own image reflected from a mountain brook “And looking for his corse we only found A rising stalk with blossoms crowned.” MODERN DAFFODILS THREE HUNDRED YEARS OLD The praises of daffodils—the trumpets— have been voiced only during the past three centuries by Spenser, Shakespeare, Tenny- son, Wordsworth, Keats, and other poets. A good-sized volume might be filled with rhap- sodical allusions and poetic descriptions from the various writers about daffodils, all indica- tive of the continued popularity of branches of the narcissus family, throughout centuries of time. Space, however, forbids our quo- ting more than the following classic lines: “__Daffodils that come before the swallow dares And take the winds of March with beauty.” —Shakespeare in “Winter's Tale”. “A thing of beauty is a joy forever and such are daffodils.” —Keats. “T wander’d lonely as a cloud That floats on high o’er vales and hills, When all at once I saw a crowd, A host, of golden daffodils; Beside the lake, beneath the trees, Fluttering and dancing in the breeze. OLD-TIME AND MODERN 13 “Continuous as the stars that shine And twinkle on the Milky Way, They stretched in never-ending line Along the margin of the bay; Ten thousand saw I at a glance, Tossing their heads in sprightly dance. “The waves beside them danced: but they Outdid the sparkling waves in glee: A poet could not but be gay, In such a jocund company: I gazed—and gazed—but little thought What wealth the show to me had brought: “For oft, when on my couch I lie In vacant or in pensive mood, They flash upon that inward eye Which is the bliss of solitude; And then my heart with pleasure fills, And dances with the daffodils.” —William Wordsworth. THE TYPICAL DAFFODIL AND NARCISSUS Though ‘‘Narcissus” is the botanical title of the whole family, the more showy large trumpet forms have so dominated that their popular name of ‘“‘daffodil” has come to sig- nify all the members of the family included in the large crown and medium crown sec- tions, embracing the intermediate hybrid groups. The name “‘narcissus” is still re- tained popularly for the small-cupped species, 14 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS Narcissus poeticus, N. Tazetta and N. Jon- quilla. The relationship of the flowers can be best realized by looking at the diagrams in Plate IV. It will be seen that there is a con- siderable difference between the exterior form of the flowers as well as in their in- terior structure. From stem to mouth the flowers are practically of the same length, but the whorl of so-called petals*—perianth segments—is placed near the mouth in typi- cal ‘“‘narcissus’”’ flowers so that there is only a shallow cup in front of it. In typical “daffodils” the whorl is placed near the base, allowing a longer portion called the ‘“trum- pet” in front. There are also differences of interior struc- ture. In the narcissus proper the stamens are in two series of three each, one set being con- nected to the tube near the top, the other lower down; in daffodils proper the stamens are in one series of six—all connected with the tube at one point nearly at its base. Prac- *The term petals is used throughout this book to sig- nify the perianth segments; it is more convenient and is easily understood. TYPES OF FLOWER The perianth segments (A) form a collar, as it were, that may be pushed awa: from or closer to the ovary (F) so that there is a definite ratio between the length of the tube (B) and the depth of the crown (C The sections:—(1) N. Tazetta, polyanthus; (2) N. poeticus, common narcissus; (3).N. Pseudo-Narcissus, trumpet daffodil. The stamens (C) are inserted in one seriesin (3), butin twoseriesin(1)}and(z). The pistil is indicated at (D) Fig. 2 typifies the short crowned or saucer section Fig. 3 is the typical eng cere flower or trumpet daffodil Fig. 4 is N. Sprengeri, a hybrid from N. Pseudo-N arcissus (2) and N. Tazetta(1) Fig. 5 typifies the medium-crowned or cup daffodils, N. incomparabilis, pro- duced by crossing NV. poeticus (2) and a trumpet daffodil (3) 16 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS tically all narcissus of intermediate form be- tween these two extremes are hybrids either natural or artificial between the two classes. For instance, N. Tazetta (Fig. 1) crossed with N. Pseudo-Narcissus (Fig. 3) has pro- duced N. Sprengeri (Fig. 4). Again, N. poeticus (Fig. 2) crossed with N. Pseudo- Narcissus (Fig. 3) has produced N. incom- parabilis (Fig. 5). As will be seen by a ref- erence to the plate the hybrid in each case combines some characters from each of the parents. CHAPTER I DAFFODILS IN THE GARDEN BORDER How a bulb grows—Soils and varieties—Planting depths and distances—Early planting—Lifting and dividing— Winter protection—The ideal mulch—Sunshine and shade—Blooms for three months—Cutting flowers— How to select bulbs. ALL narcissus and daffodils are bulbous plants, and an understanding of the phases of a bulb’s life will help materially in arriving at an intelligent system of cultivation. The bulb, the plant’s thickened, underground storehouse from which the roots descend and the stems, leaves and flowers ascend, is fully formed by the growing plant after the flower- ing period and before growth for the season is suspended, and it contains within itself next year’s flowers and foliage in embryo. In the thick, fleshy scales of the bulb is stored up a supply of food to support the new growth in early spring; these scales also serve as shields to protect the leaves and flower from injury, from cold or other external conditions. 17 18 DAFFODILS——NARCISSUS The dormant period for these bulbs ranges from July to November, during which they may be dug from the ground, stored, and shipped around the world if desired. When replanted where soil and climatic conditions are congenial, the bulb develops leaves and flowers with as much luxuriance as if it had remained undisturbed in its original environ- ment. The bulbs of narcissus and daffodils vary greatly in size, according to age and kind. The Tazettas, or polyanthus narcissus, make the biggest bulbs, averaging from six to nine inches in circumference. Some groups, as triandrus, cyclamineus, Bulbocodium, etc., make full-grown bulbs not much larger than peas; while the great majority of our com- monly grown narcissus and daffodils make bulbs of four to six inches maximum circum- ference. SOIL PREFERENCES With very few exceptions, the hardy nar- cissus and daffodils revel in coolness and a deep moisture-holding, air-penetrable soil, IN THE GARDEN BORDER 19 overlying a pervious subsoil, and in partial shade. Though they will grow and flower most accommodatingly in any garden soil of average quality, yet they will do far better under more congenial soil conditions. Cir- cumstances do not always permit us to pro- vide these perfect conditions and we have to plan accordingly. If there be a choice of several sites, it will be well to plant the different groups sepa- rately; the single yellow and bicolor trumpets in moderately moist but well underdrained loam; the poeticus types in heavier, damper, lower ground (particularly the double gar- denia flowered form, alba plena, which will flower only when grown in heavy damp soil). In warm climates the popular old “Double Daffodil” or Double Van Sion (N. telamo- nius, var. plenus) also requires a damp moist soil to retain its rich yellow colouring as on a dry light soil in a hot situation it is apt to produce greenish-yellow flowers, and in some cases, even, all-green flowers. The drier soils or high ground will answer for the white trumpet daffodils; and the dry, sunny, well-drained hillside or rockery, with 20 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS warm exposure, should receive the Bulboco- dium, cyclamineus and triandrus sections. Although most of the important type groups of the narcissus family like cool, moist soil, yet it is essential that the moisture be not stagnant; that is, water must not remain con- tinuously about the bulbs nor roots, but be drained away from below. ‘‘Wet feet’ pre- vents maximum root development, and is apt, sooner or later, to cause ‘‘basal-rot” in the bulbs. Maintained moisture with abundant soil aeration is the ideal while the bulbs are in growth and flower. The old idea that there is as much of the tree below ground as there is above is also ap- proximately true of the narcissus and if the plant grows 18 inches high the roots pene- trate the earth to approximately the same depth. It may be more practical to reverse this order of reasoning and say that if the roots can only forage six inches below the sur- face the growth of the plant and flowers above will be correspondingly small and stun- ted. ‘The whole secret of success in pro- ducing the best, the largest, the most perfect and the richest coloured flowers and foliage is IN THE GARDEN BORDER 21 maximum root development—and root devel- opment is entirely dependent upon congenial soil conditions. Your neighbour may buy and merely plant in his garden a few Glory of Leiden daffodils and get flowers three inches across, very handsome and thoroughly pleas- ing to him. You, knowing a little more of what that variety is capable of doing, and knowing how to prepare the bed, produce flowers five inches across! PREPARATION OF THE SOIL Where nature does not supply the ideal conditions, our aim must be to reproduce them as nearly as possible. Light, dry, sandy or gravelly soils must be made heavier and more retentive of mois- ture. This may be done by manuring and then growing crimson clover, peas, or some “oreen crop” that can be dug under to decay and add humus, absorbent, sponge-like vege- table matter, to the soil. While this may be done in the spring so that the soil will be in fairly good condition by daffodil planting time in September, it will be far better to make the preparations a year ahead. 22 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS If previous preparation is not practicable, something may be done by starting two or three weeks before planting time. Remove the top soil to a spade’s depth—six to eight inches—and work into the underlying soil to the depth of a spade, a two-inch layer of thor- oughly rotted stable manure. Then replace the top soil. The object of using the manure is not so much to supply fertility as it is to assist in holding moisture, preventing its too rapid leaching. Under any other conditions, the use of stable manure for narcissus and daffodils the year of planting is not desirable unless it be put a considerable depth below the bottom of the bulbs. Under no condi- tions must the manure be mixed with the upper soil, or where it would be in contact with the bulb. Year after year, until I learned to be more strict, I used to see here and there a sickly, yellowish-leaved, stunted daffodil plant. An examination of the soil almost invariably dis- closed a lump of manure either in contact with the bulb or where its roots should have been, probably had been, but were destroyed by contact with raw manure. ‘“‘No roots, no flow- IN THE GARDEN BORDER 23 ers; poor roots, poor flowers; good roots, good flowers.” Heavy, wet clay soils need mellowing as a general thing, although some of the strong growing yellow and bicolor trumpet daffodils, and all of the poeticus and Burbidgei types will often make good growth and flower well for a time in heavy soil. Yet some plants eventually fail. Underdrainage, either with tile or triangle- shaped board conduits placed three feet be- low the surface, and twelve to twenty feet apart, according to circumstances, is the cor- rective for wet, heavy soils. These drains are laid with a slight fall to an outlet, thus leading off the surplus water. The benefit of underdrainage is not only in drawing off surplus water, from below but also in opening the soil, allowing air to enter. The next best thing to underdrainage is subsoil plowing, or digging fully eighteen inches deep. When previous manuring and preparation have not been done, use nothing but pure ground bone at the rate of two to four ounces on a square yard evenly strewn over the soil and dug in. Follow this by some high class 24 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS commercial fertilizer, rich in potash, at the rate of one to two ounces to a square yard just before leveling and raking. On light, sandy soils, in addition, soon after the bulbs are planted, give sul- phate of potash, about one ounce to a square yard. Potash in some form, even that con- tained in unleached wood ashes, deepens the colouring of the flowers and checks abnormal growth of plant and foliage. PLANTING DEPTHS AND DISTANCES VARY The stereotyped answer to the question, “How far apart and how deep shall I plant the bulbs?” is this: ‘Plant six inches apart and cover the bulbs three inches.” While being approximately correct for the average growing varieties, the instruction requires modification to suit different soils, large or small growing varieties, and temporary or permanent plantings. Narcissus and daffo- dil bulbs vary as greatly in size as the plants and flowers they produce. Those of the Bulbocodium, triandrus, and one or two other groups grow no bigger than large peas, pro- IN THE GARDEN BORDER 25 ducing small plants which may be grown three inches apart. Some full sized bulbs of other groups attain a circumference of six to eight inches, and make plants sometimes two feet high and of correspondingly large girth. These should be planted six to ten inches apart. In light soils, plant deeper than in heavy soils. If planting only for the next spring’s effect, with the intention of supplanting the daffodils with summer flowering plants, closer planting can be done than if the bulbs are to remain undisturbed for several years. In my own garden, with average soil, I cover the bulb with a depth of soil fully equal- ling its largest circumference. This places the base of the great majority of bulbs (the poeticus, the trumpets, the incomparabilis va- rieties) about four inches below the surface of the ground. In lighter soils, this would be increased one-half. Deep planting is always safer, especially in cold, exposed localities; but deeply planted bulbs flower later than shal- lower planted ones. On the other hand, late flowers are often larger and have better sub- stance than earlier flowers of the same variety. 26 DAF FODILS—-NARCISSUS That at least some narcissus will thrive when planted unusually deep was exemplified in a group of old-fashioned double daffodils, growing in the lower end of a hillside border which I had filled in during the fall when the daffodils were dormant and leafless and so for- gotten. But they were not to be smothered with a covering of fifteen inches of soil and surprised us in the spring by blooming with unusual luxuriance, though about two weeks later than usual—and they have continued this performance for several years. WHEN TO PLANT Plant daffodils at any time between July and November and the earlier the better. The family is an exception to the generality of bulbous plants, and under natural conditions commences making new roots soon after the bulbs ripen, which, according to the earliness of the variety, is, in the latitude of New York, in June or July. The poeticus types and their hybrids are especially resentful of being kept dry and dor- mant. When left in the ground they accept IN THE GARDEN BORDER 27 no resting period but begin new root action almost before the old roots have matured. Imported bulbs are not likely to be received before the middle of September, therefore it is well to have all preparations made in advance so that the bulbs can be planted at once. The more root growth made before winter, the larger the flowers. Late planted bulbs usually give fairly satisfactory results the next spring; but full-sized, characteristic flowers from late planted bulbs cannot be ex- pected until the second spring, though bulbs lifted from the ground in July and at once replanted, will give maximum blooms the next season. GARDEN PLANTING Small bulbing daffodils, those making bulbs not larger than an inch in diameter, are quickly and easily planted with a garden dibber. This tool is thrust into the ground far enough to make a hole of the proper depth. It is then wiggled back and forth to enlarge the hole at the bottom, so the swol- len base of the bulb may come in contact with the soil. If this is not done, the bulb 23 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS may “hang” midway down, leaving an air space below, which, if not actually detrimen- tal, is certainly not good feeding ground for the young roots. The bulbs of varieties too large to go in the holes made by the dibber are best planted with a trowel, by which a hole of proper size and depth is scooped out. After the bulbs are placed—whatever method of making the hole is employed—they are to be covered with soil which if not ‘‘sticky damp’ should be pressed very firmly, by hand or foot, into con- tact with the bulb. PLANTING IN TURF Different methods of planting in sod ground are resorted to according to the diff- culties encountered in making holes to re- ceive the bulbs. When the sod is sufficiently moist and soft, the quickest way is to use a spade handle sharpened dibber-like with a cross piece for a foot rest, fastened about 6 inches from the point. Another way is to thrust a spade or digging fork slantingly into the sod and soil, and raising the handle, thus lifting sod and TP[Nur 19jUIM w Se ‘UOSTAS NP UI ‘saaras osTe pur sqinq ay} wadts AJ1adosd}oy sdjay sjur[d snoadeqiay Surpunoiins ay} Jo UoTpajoid sautUMs ayy, ‘aha YI SNI0§ 07 Jods gUO WW JosLop os|R ‘Av[nHouy sdnoiZ Japi0g ay} fo Soul{jNo ay} ayeyy wWadNod SNOAOVAMAH AHL NI ONLLINWITd when Saw 4 PLATE Vi THE POET’S NARCISSUS NATURALISED The white poet’s narcissus (N’. poeticus) is one of the latest blooming varieties. It lasts well as a cut flower, and prefers heavier, damper, lower ground than the trum- pet daffodils. At Highland Park, Rochester, N. Y. IN THE GARDEN BORDER 29 soil so that one or more bulbs may be inserted in the cleft. Then pull out the spade and tramp the sod back into its former position. This will leave the bulbs in a slanting position, which seems to make no difference to their growth and flowering, the plants coming up just as straight as if the bulbs had been placed perpendicularly. SAND CUSHIONS In heavy ground, or low-lying situations, where an undue amount of moisture from melting snow or other causes keeps the soil continuously wet for weeks during the spring, place a handful of sand under and around the bulb of any rare and delicate variety, partic- ularly the white trumpet daffodils. This will often prevent them from becoming diseased, as the sand allows the water to drain away from the bulb. LIFTING AND DIVIDING The natural increase by offsets of some va- rieties is so great that the second year after planting, the number of bulbs will be trebled. 30 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS But most sorts are not so prolific. Still, in time, varying from three to six years, ac- cording to variety, soil, and the distance apart the bulbs were originally planted, the clumps of plants will have become so crowded, and probably the soil so exhausted, or both, that fewer and smaller flowers will be pro- duced. It is then time to dig up the bulbs, separate them and their offsets (young bulbs) and replant, either in fresh ground or in re- newed soil in their old locations. This opera- tion is called lifting and dividing. The best time to do this, as a rule, is when the foliage has yellowed one-third down from the top, but some varieties, particularly those comprising the poeticus, Burbidgei and odorus groups, and possibly some others, should be lifted even sooner, for the reason that new root growth commences before the foliage has ripened down. In these cases the later lifting is injurious to the tender rootlets which are likely to die off, weak- ening the bulb and reducing the size of the next season’s flowers, even if it does not prevent flowering altogether. Of course, if fully ripened bulbs can be immediately re- IN THE GARDEN BORDER 31 planted, without the young roots being ex- posed to sun, air-drying or handling, the dan- ger of injury will be lessened; but it is difficult to properly divide freshly lifted bulbs and their offsets on account of the adhesiveness of the soil and matting of wiry old roots. Therefore, it is considered good practice to lift early—better too early than too late— store the clumps in a cool, airy, shady place (preferably in trays) and there let them ripen and cure until the old leaves and roots are dry, when they are easily cleaned off and divided. The actual work of “‘lifting’’ should be done by a spading fork. Never take a spade for this purpose, as the danger of cutting the bulbs is increased. Insert the fork a few inches from the clump, until the tines are com- pletely buried. Work it from side to side and up and down to loosen the mass. Then in- cline the fork so that it will pass under the bulbs and the clump is removed. “Dividing” is a term expressing the opera- tion of separating bulbs held together by matted and intermingled roots and removing the offsets or young bulbs from the mother 32 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS bulbs. This is best done just before replant- ing. Do not remove any offset unless it is entirely detached from the mother bulb, with the exception of the union at the base. ‘This may be cut through with a sharp knife if the variety is choice, though the common sorts are usually merely broken apart. Be sure not to cut or break through any other sub- stance of the bulbs than the basal plate. Any surplus offsets which cannot be accommodated in the garden may well be used for natural- ising in the grass. Commercial growers dig and divide their bulbs every year, a practice that may be justi- fied on a business basis, though I feel sure that the commercial stocks of some varieties would have better constitutions and produce bigger and stronger bulbs if these growers would dig and divide them only every second year. WINTER MULCHING AND PROTECTION During the summer, nature provides a mulch by covering the ground with weeds. We, in opposition, cultivate to kill the weeds IN THE GARDEN BORDER 33 and in doing so—unconsciously perhaps— form a different mulch of cultivated soil, which breaks the capillarity of the soil, and prevents the sun’s heat and drying winds from drawing up and dissipating the soils’ moisture. The winter mulch while to some extent rendering the same service as a sum- mer mulch, has additional duties; its object is not only to maintain an even underground moisture and temperature but also to prevent the surface soil from freezing too deeply, and still more important—it must keep the frozen soil from thawing during unseason- ably warm winter weather and early spring thaws. The net result of these alternations of frost and thaw is “heaving,” by which the surface soil is lifted and broken apart. Thus shallow-planted bulbs are often lifted and torn from their fall made roots which are anchored in the lower layers of soil. The win- ter mulch then holds together the soil and its contained bulbs and should not be removed until settled spring weather justifies it. | In the wild, nature provides the mulch. When naturalised in grass, the leaves and 34 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS stalks of the grass ripen, bend over or break, and finally settle down, forming an ideal blanket, giving both warmth and airiness. In shrubberies, the fallen leaves accomplish the same result. Nature’s mulch is lightened by the winds of March and the balance is reduced by decay. In garden culture, it is not practicable to follow these gradations in covering and uncovering. The best that we can do is to cover, or mulch, as soon as the surface of the ground is frozen to a crust, not before, and to remove the mulch in the spring after hard freezing weather is over— before the growth of the bulbs has penetrated the mulch sufficiently to prevent its removal without injuring the young top growth. THE BEST KIND OF MULCH I have used several materials for mulching my bulbs and have seen still other materials used by others. The answer to the question “What is the best mulch” depends largely on what is available. The one direct lesson from nature is warmth, with air. In Hol- land the water rushes are used and they are IN THE GARDEN BORDER ha ideal, but they are not always available. I have a friend who grows narcissus and daffo- dils, in cold, bleak, northerly exposed, hillside ground, who uses a six-inch covering of forest leaves, and usually with great success. These are held in place by a few branches of trees. Towards spring this leaf blanket settles down to a compact mass about four inches thick, which in a less exposed and warmer location would give too much warmth and induce too early growth. In warm situations possibly a four-inch covering of leaves would answer well. I have generally used strawy manure and with success when the winter has held steadily cold and kept the ground frozen until the manure could be removed before any bulb growth had penetrated it. But, sometimes, the manure covering has given disappoint- ment, as when prematurely warm spells have brought up an early growth which came in contact with the manure. This condition pre- vailed in the spring of 1906. As the plants developed, there were irregular streaks of sickly yellow leaved plants throughout the beds. I could not account for this as I knew 36 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS the beds were well drained and the soil prop- erly prepared, and the bulbs had been planted early. Mr. De Graaff, the well-known daffo- dil grower of Holland, was a visitor that sea- son and soon convinced me that the whole source of trouble was with the manure cov- ering. A fungus seemed to have run through it and had attacked the young growth of the narcissus; in some cases traveling down the leaves to the bulbs and even to the roots. He said: ‘Use no more manure. If you cannot get reeds or rushes, try sphagum moss or cocoanut fibre refuse.” A three-inch layer of cocoanut fibre refuse is light and airy, retains an even degree of moisture and is sufficiently warm. It is an ideal cover. It costs five dollars per ton at any factory where cocoa mats and such things are made though of course there is a freight charge to be added. Salt meadow hay makes an excellent cov- ering, and even ordinary straw and hay may be used. Put it on four to six inches thick, according to the coldness of the latitude and the exposure. Should any of these harbor mice, there is little likelihood of their doing any damage if the covering is put on, as it IN THE GARDEN BORDER 37 should be, after the surface of the ground has frozen to a hard crust. In the spring, as soon as the ground is workable, after the winter covering has been removed, stir the soil with a narrow rake, hand fork, or prong weeder, to break up the hard-packed surface and so enable the plants to come through easily. If this is not done where the soil is heavy the growths will lift whole chunks of the surface soil and the pres- sure often causes the leaves and flower stalks to become crooked or otherwise deformed. GROUPING IN GARDENS Daffodils are most happily placed when growing in clumps in the foreground of a border of mixed shrubs and herbaceous plants. The shrubs supply sufficient shelter, and shade at all times, and the herbaceous plants grow up and hide the ripening daffodil foliage as is begins to get unsightly. Here the bulbs may remain undisturbed to flourish and in- crease for several years, or until a reduction in size and quantity of flowers indicates a too crowded condition, exhausted soil, or 38 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS both. Where that occurs, lift the clumps, divide and replant, as before explained. Plant each variety by itself in irregular colonies of from twelve to twenty-five bulbs, each group in a little bay with a background of greenery; in the next bay, plant a colony of some distinct type that flowers either earlier or later, and so on. Such an arrangement brings out the full beauties of the varieties, prevents any inharmonious clashes, and by intermingling the early, mid-season and later flowering varieties, a long succession of bloom may be enjoyed in all parts of the border. Daffodils may also be bedded out like hya- cinths and tulips, and very effectively too. Yet they never appear so beautiful as when col- onised in the mixed border. RELATION TO SUNSHINE AND SHADE The largest and most richly colored flowers are those grown in partial shade, although most varieties (particularly those having flowers of thick substance) do well when ex- posed to the full sun. Their flowers last longer when protected to some extent, from the heat of the noonday sun. This can be IN THE GARDEN BORDER 39 provided by shrubbery, overhanging limbs of trees, etc. All white flowered varieties, and even the bi-colour or white winged trum- pets are particularly grateful for some shade; and the rich colouring of the new red-orange rimmed crown varieties is only retained when the flowers are shielded from the sun. If necessary cut the flowers when about half open and allow them to develop in water, in a cool shaded place. This is a factor that the American amateur should consider when studying the latest European lists, as I have learned from experience. I bought some new sorts described in terms such as “perianth showy white, cup rich golden yel- low, broadly edged with brilliant scarlet,” etc., and paid two dollars for each bulb, but could not at first make the colouring of the cups support the description. Eventually I learned that my failure was caused by my own lack of knowledge, and now all choice, highly coloured, and white daffodils are grown under a shade of tobacco cloth. This is a sort of coarse meshed, strong cheesecloth that comes just one rod wide and is fastened on wire runners carried on top 40 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS of posts eight feet above the ground. Suffici- ent sunlight filters through for perfect devel- opment of flowers and colouring and more- over it makes an agreeable shade for anyone to study the flowers. Other advantages of this protector—which is put on just as soon as the mulch is removed—are tempering late frosts and breaking the force of heavy rains, thus preventing the bearing down of tall flower stalks and splashing with dirt. The cloth may be rolled up and put away for another season just as soon as the plants are through flowering, thus permitting the full sunshine to accomplish its work of thoroughly ripen- ing the foliage and bulbs. If we want good flowers the succeeding season, the plants must have abundant light and sun to complete their growth. In hot Australia and New Zealand daffodil amateurs make lath houses and cover the tops with tree boughs. BLOOM FOR THREE MONTHS With a proper selection of types and varie- ties embracing extra early, early, mid-season, late and extra late sorts, the ‘time of the daffodil” may be extended in the open ground IN THE GARDEN BORDER 4I over a period of three months; but only where a variety of locations is available, in- fluenced by depth of planting, and assisted by depth and retention of mulch. To accomplish this, we need consider only the varieties flowering at the two extremes of the season. The “‘come-betweens,” comprising, at a rough guess, 7§ per cent. of the genus, will supply an abundance of bloom through- out their normal periods and we need there- fore consider them no further now. What we need to do is to make some of the extra earlies flower still earlier and some of the extra lates flower still later than nor- mal. A choice of locations—early and late grounds—is the main necessity; the other contributory essentials we have under our own control. To appreciate the difference between early and late grounds, take note where the snows always melt first—there the sun lingers long- est and it is “early ground” compared to where the snows melt last, which is usually on the north or shade side of a clump of shrubbery, fence or hedge. This will be the “late” ground. The difference in time between 42 DAF FODILS—-NARCISSUS these melting snows will indicate how much the normal daffodil flowering season may be extended. By putting some bulbs of your extra earlies in the early ground, mulching but light- ly and removing same early, and by planting some extra lates in the late ground, covering deeply, say with six inches of soil, and retain- ing the mulch as long as possible, the desired result is assured. This fact was brought for- cibly to my notice by accident soon after I commenced growing daffodils, although at that time my garden area was only a 20x30 foot yard. The bed on the south side of the fence was fully three weeks earlier than that on the north side, and bulbs of the same vari- ety, planted on both sides, commenced flower- ing three weeks apart. When one’s enthusiasm in daffodil culture leads to experiments in crossing types and rais- ing new seedlings, one will want to cross vari- eties that may flower one or more weeks apart. By reversing the directions just given and planting the late sort in the early ground, and the early sort in the late ground, one can bring the two in flower simultaneously so that they may be hybridized without resorting to IN THE GARDEN BORDER 43 the more troublesome method of forcing the late sort into flower under glass. CUTTING THE FLOWERS When flowers of narcissus and daffodils are to be cut for house decoration or for shipping, they should be taken when partially open, al- most in the bud state. If the stems are then at once placed in water in a cool shaded place, the flowers develop larger and more richly coloured than they would have done if al- lowed to expand on the plant; and they also last longer. In vasing daffodil flowers, their own foli- age usually harmonises better and sets them off better than any other greenery. But do not for this reason cut the foliage of choice varieties, for it is needed by the plant to assist in properly ripening and storing up the suc- ceeding season’s flower. Use foliage from the more abundant commoner kinds, and it will be equally effective. SELECTING THE BULBS For garden planting or for pots or forcing where flowers of maximum size and quality 44 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS are desired always choose “top” bulbs or the best bulbs the variety produces; but for per- manent plantings and naturalising the smaller younger and cheaper “‘seconds” may be used. In selecting bulbs for ‘Exhibition flowers,” an expert will choose the largest old “‘single crown” bulbs, which give larger but fewer flowers than the “double crown” or “mother bulbs.” As different varieties of narcissus and daffo- dils make bulbs varying from half an inch to eight inches in circumference, it is difficult for us to tell how to select the largest old single crown bulbs of all varieties without making the following explanation of their manner of growth. Specialised types (varieties) of narcissus not seedlings, are increased by offsets, the latter being produced by the “breaking up” of the mother bulb. These offsets at- tain full growth and vitality usually in about four years. Tjhe next year probably these bulbs will develop into the ‘double and triple nose” form (two or more bulbs in one skin). They then are “mothers” and the succeeding year will probably break up. ’ amssaid UO WHY PUT PI]OS av YIYM put azis 0} Uostsedwod ut Latay oie yeyy sqqmng Anq skem[yY SIAMOY OA) aINpoid 0} UO pajuNod ay ULI oAyUD) oY] UI UMOYs qin ,,pesou a[qnop,, AYL, “JMO auo aonpord [pA IGA GING ,,do},, adesave pood v st yop oyy uC) “QYSia ay) UO UMOYS) SOTA DVZDT “Ay Jo SaqiuURsJod ay) UL punoy aie sqing W9Be] OUT, “A[MwLY SAssfoIBU 94} JO SJoqWoW JUXaYIp Jo Sq[n a4} JO dzIs PUB UOJ Ul S2UOYIP payUi aT asap, SsdTnd Goo0v Add V IIA #14 Ig NAJGYUVO MOGNIM FHL XOd STIdOdAAva JO01 O} SYIIAA DATAA\] OF UD} WO aIINbaI qing 243 07 dn A]reou 9q pynoys Jovem Ady, ‘s}od ul wMoIF pue yios ur payueyd jsaq are Juromoy ay, “SeWystIyD JO} pssi0y 9q ue pu SYIIM XIS UL IaMOY [TEM IOOPUl JO} S[Ipoyep UMoID-WUNIpaw ay} puv joduInIy 94 YI AIwT passes asaulya MoZ ‘asnoy ay} Ul anjNd J3}VM 104 IIA 2v1¢ IN THE GARDEN BORDER 45 It is at the maximum single crown age, just before entering the ‘“‘mother’’ stage, that the bulbs should be chosen for maximum flowers. Bulbs bought from a reliable dealer will probably be of just the right age, unless his price is considerably less than the average price of other reliable dealers, when it is more than probable that his bulbs are a year or two younger. If it is possible to examine the dealer’s stock of bulbs, look out for a few “double nosed” bulbs as their presence indi- cates the age of the crop and shows that the “singles” among them have attained maxi- mum size and age in single crown formation. Another thing to be considered is health: This is indicated by solidity, weight and skin. Bulbs solid and weighty for their size are most likely in perfect health and vitality. To test any, press lightly between thumb and fingers both base and neck and if either feels soft and giving or “spongy” examine more carefully. Should any basal rot be found re- ject the infected bulbs to prevent dissemina- tion of the disease. Or if the bulb be of a choice variety it may be planted away from the healthy ones. A handful of sand below 46 DAF FODILS—NARCISSUS and about an invalid bulb permits the water to drain away and the bulb may recover. Look for a clean, shiny skin, indicating freedom from any fungus, although a rough skin, though suspicious, does not necessarily mean a diseased bulb. CHAPTER III FLOWERING DAFFODILS IN WINTER Important factors—The best soil and its preparation— Getting bulbs early—How to order—August planting— Pots and potting—Pans or pots—What plunging does— The ash packing—Danger from heat—Importance of good roots—Forcing into bloom—What to do, after flowering—Varieties. IT is an easy matter to grow narcissus in the house and have some varieties flower by Christmas, and from that time both narcissus and daffodils may be brought into flower in increasing variety and quantity until spring. The growing plants need occupy no space in the window garden, or conservatory, ex- cepting while in bud and blooming, and their flowering period may be hastened or retarded at pleasure to keep up the succession. For earliest blooms the earlier flowering varieties of the Tazetta group are grown, particularly Paper White and Double Roman; these are often in flower even earlier than Christmas. Successful winter flowering is dependent upon four factors: 47 48 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS 1. Early planting. Procure the bulbs as early as possible and pot up at once. 2. Plenty of time to root thoroughly out of doors. Allow about twelve weeks for hardy varieties and six weeks for tender Tazetta varieties. 3. Slow growth when first brought into the house, giving ventilation and keeping the room or house cool: 50° until budded, then 60° to 65° for flowering. 4. Plenty of water when the buds are de- veloping and when in flower. MAKING A GOOD POTTING SOIL The ideal potting soil for daffodils is pre- pared six months or more before using. It should be sod taken from rich loamy land. Make your “mould pile” by first putting down a layer of inverted sod, and then cov- ering this with a layer of old manure—cow manure, thoroughly rotted, is the best. Over this spread a layer of leaf mould. Proceed in that way with another layer of inverted sod, etc., until the required quantity is stacked. This should be in the proportion of 50 per_. cent. loam sod, 25 per cent. manure, 25 per a FLOWERING IN WINTER 49 cent. leaf mould,.-Compost this by turning the pile three or four times during the season - to get all ingredients thoroughly mixed. Be- fore using, add about four quarts of sand and. two quarts of fine bone meal to a ‘bushel of the mould. If it is too much trouble for an amateur to prepare the soil as directed, it would be better to buy prepared potting soil from a florist, than to rely on the ordinary garden soil. Of course, it will be necessary to add the sand and bone meal just the same. The next best thing, if, for some reason, soil pre- pared in advance by yourself or the florist is not available, is to lift some sod, tear it apart, shaking out the soil and allowing the small pieces of fibrous grass roots to remain in it. Add bone meal and sand as in the other case, but omit manure. This last injunction is of paramount importance. IMPORTANCE OF AUGUST POTTING Too much emphasis cannot be put on this: get your bulbs as early as possible and pot at once. 50 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS A general order for daffodil bulbs sent to the bulb dealer will not be filled in the usua! course of things until he can complete the order and so ship the whole lot at one time— that is, after the arrival of the Dutch, Eng- lish, Irish and Guernsey bulbs, which means that you get your bulbs about the middle of September. Be emphatic, therefore, in giving — instructions to ship the bulbs ‘as they come in.” The purchaser then receives early in August, the South of France and Asia Minor bulbs including Paper White, Double Roman, and two or three others of the older Tazetta varieties, as well as three or four varieties of the old standard trumpet sorts—probably Spurius major, Golden Spur, and Emperor. Be very chary about accepting any Double Van Sion from these sections as they are apt to produce flowers with some or much green in them. It is just possible that the bulb dealer will also have a shipment in July or early in August of a few sorts of home grown bulbs from Virginia, probably Golden Spur, Emperor, Empress, Barri conspicuus, poeti- cus, and ornatus. With a start of even half a dozen varieties FLOWERING IN WINTER 51 in August, and the arrival of the European varieties in September, it is perfectly easy to have a grand show of narcissus and daffo- dils all winter from Christmas on. The ob- ject of getting the bulbs potted early is to give them plenty of time to ‘make root’’—three months is none too long—for remember that without good roots, good flowers cannot be produced even from the best bulbs. POTS AND POTTING I prefer to use five or six inch pots with several bulbs in each. The large potful not only gives better and more pleasing results, but is easier to manage than a small pot. One Golden Spur daffodil may be grown and flowered successfully in a four-inch pot, but it requires more watching and care, is more susceptible to changes of moisture, etc., than three or more Golden Spurs in a six-inch pot. In other words, it is better to suit your bulbs to the pot than to suit the pot to the bulb. An inch of space between the bulbs in a pot is ample. In the case of small-bulbing varieties, such as the Bulbocodium, triandrus, and cyclami. §2 DAF FODILS——NARCISSUS neus groups, a dozen or more bulbs may well be grown in a five or six-inch pot. On the other hand, the big-bulbing Tazetta varieties can only go one bulb to a six-inch pot. The great majority of the trumpet and crown daffodils can be planted 3 to 5 bulbs to a six- inch pot. Plant only one variety in a pot; different varieties of different heights and not flowering simultaneously give an unsatisfac- tory result. 7 The pots to be used must be washed clean; if old ones; and if they are new, soak them thoroughly in water so that the pots them- selves will not dry out the soil after potting: Before putting in the soil, provide for good drainage by placing two or three pieces of broken pots over the hole in the bot- tom of the pot, to prevent it from getting stopped up. Cover this drainage with a small layer of sphagnum moss, cocoanut fibre refuse or old fibrous roots that have been shaken out of sod; then fill in with soil until, when it is shaken down and a bulb set on it, the top of the bulb is almost up to the top of the pot. Place the requisite number of bulbs in po- sition, and fill in with soil to within half an FLOWERING IN WINTER 53 inch of the top (this much space being needed for watering). A little of the neck of each bulb will remain exposed, excepting in the - case of the very small pea-like bulbs of minia- ture varieties, which should be covered with soil to a depth of about half an inch. If earthen pans are used, the procedure will be the same as for pots. Ejight-inch pans make ideal receptacles and when the plants are in flower look better than pots. Shallow boxes (flats) are used when flowers are to be grown in quantity for cutting. This is discussed in detail in Chapter V. AFTER POTTING COMES “PLUNGING” The secret of success in flowering bulbs is to make them develop roots before top growth starts. The object of “‘plunging’’ potted bulbs out of doors is to induce them to do this by keeping the lower portion of the bulbs warmer than the top. Failure to do this is responsible for most disappointments in grow- ing and flowering bulbs under artificial con- ditions. Without roots the flower can only develop as far as the stored up nutriment in the bulb will sustain it; and, as the bulb’s 54 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS supply of food is generally exhausted before the flower is half grown, nutrition supplied by the roots then becomes essential. It is easy to understand, therefore, that growth ceases if no roots are at work and the stunted plant becomes a monument to incompetent treatment. There are various ways of plunging the potted bulbs; my method, and the one that I think most nearly fulfils the requirements of nature, is to dig a trench in the garden a foot deep in some location sheltered from the north and west, and where water will not flow into it. A three-inch layer of coal ashes is placed in the bottom of the trench for drain- age and to prevent worms from entering the pots. The pots or pans of bulbs are then placed closely together on the ashes and the interstices filled with soil, the trench being filled in to a little above the level, and the surface rounded over to shed water. Here everything is as conducive to root action and deterrent to top growth as if the bulbs were planted in the garden in the regular manner. When the surface of the ground is frozen to a crust, a layer, three or four inches deep, of FLOWERING IN WINTER ee salt hay, straw, or leaves is put over all. Another way is to set the pots on the sur- face of the soil (on ashes) in a shady part of the garden, hold them together with a board frame and fill in around and over with ashes, leaf mould, tanbark or sand. Some growers stand the pots on the floor of a cool, airy cel- lar, or place them in a cold pit or cold frame. All of these methods are successful; but I prefer and always follow the trench method. The hardy bulbs, potted and plunged as advised will be sufficiently rooted in_twelve weeks’ time and some of the early sorts may be ready a week or two.sgoner. Most Taz- etta varieties root more quickly, Paper White and Double Roman especially, these usually being ready in five to six weeks’ time. If left in the plunge, all the bulbs will rest without making much, if any, top growth, the entire winter. Advantage is taken of this fact, and by lifting a few pots at intervals, and holding the remainder in storage, a con- tinuous succession of bloom throughout the winter is maintained. The time required for forcing into bloom after the bulbs are brought into house heat, 5 6 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS varies from three to five weeks according to the variety. Before taking in the first lot of potted bulbs for forcing, make a careful examination to see if the pots are filled with roots, and do not take the pots indoors unless they are. The only way to do this is to “knock out” one potful of bulbs. Place the palm of the hand over the top of the pot, in- vert the pot and tap the edge lightly on a box or board. The ball of earth will slip out of the pot, intact, into your hand. If the bulb is well rooted, the surface of the earth ball will show a network of white roots. If only two or three roots are visible and the earth is inclined to fall apart, the bulb is not well rooted and is not ready for forcing. The examination completed, slip the pot back over the ball of earth, turn the pot right side up, press the top slightly to make all firm again. and replace in the plunge. FLOWERING TIME, AND AFTER When the well-rooted potted daffodils are taken from the “plunge” they must not at once be placed in warmth, but brought up to it progressively. ‘Too much heat is apt to FLOWERING IN WINTER 57 expand the flower prematurely so that it can- not pass the neck of the bulb; or, if it does get through, the developing bud will be strangled by its unopened sheath. In other words, it “blasts.” First, place the potted bulbs in a tempera- ture of 45 to 50 degrees, either in cold pit, cold frame, azalea house, cold greenhouse, light cool garret, or cellar. Here the young growth—probably blanched from its cover- ing in the plunge—will gradually turn green and grow slowly, but sturdily. At this stage, and thereafter until through flowering, water freely; and once a week give manure water the strength of brown tea or soluble commer- cial fertilizer dissolved in water, one table- spoonful to a gallon. If the flower stems and buds keep pace with the foliage in growth, the treatment is cor- rect; if the foliage is outstripping the flower stems, it is proof of too much heat. When both foliage and flower buds are in an ad- vanced stage of development, the plants may be removed to their sunny flowering quarters in the window, conservatory, or greenhouse. For the best health of the plants at this time, 5 8 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS the temperature should not exceed 60° and the atmosphere should be fairly moist. In a higher temperature and dry air, the flowers sooner wither. AFTER FLOWERING Bulbs that have been forced into flower in the winter are usually thrown away, especially the cheaper sorts; still if the variety is choice, or prized, the plants may be saved. This is accomplished by growing them on in a cooler temperature until the foliage has ripened— about six weeks after blooming—then turn the pots on their sides, withhold water, and in another month remove the bulbs from the soil, cutting off dead leaves and roots, and store in a cool place until the time to plant in the gar- den in July or August. Ina year or two such bulbs will have recuperated sufficiently to be again forced, but they cannot be forced two years in succession. 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If any are to be ruled against, it would be the late and extra late sorts (those marked E and F in the Descriptive Lists of varieties on pages 112 to 207). These are quite difficult to force, yet with a maximum time allowance for rooting and by growing cool—absolutely without bottom heat— even these may be brought into flower’ in March or April, but not in winter. The va- rieties marked * in the Descriptive List are especially suitable for winter culture in pots. For the convenience of the reader, a tabu- lar selection from the forcing varieties is giv- en on pages 59 and 60. The varieties named embrace first class representatives from all sec- tions, including early, medium, and late flow- ering varieties, to maintain an unbroken suc- cession of bloom. These are in three grades, popular, choice, and fancy, so that the pock- etbooks of all may be suited. It will, how- ever, be noted that in the “‘fancy’”’ no mention is made of rare new hybrids that are held at 62 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS prices that are prohibitive so far as the aver- age buyer is concerned. In addition to those named in the tables there are a number of small and miniature flowering kinds that force most easily: Bulbo- codium, (all varieties); capax plenus (Queen Anne’s double daffodil); cyclami- eus (cyclamen flowered); Johnstoni Queen of Spain; the jonquils; juncifolius; Macleaii (Diomedes minor); triandrus (Angel’s tears), all varieties; and trumpet minimus. Plant these small growing narcissus 12 to 18 bulbs one-half inch apart in a pot or pan of suitable size, putting only one variety in the pot. CHAPTER IV WaTER CULTURE IN THE HouUsE No soil to make dirt indoors—How much water ?—Start- ing in the dark and bringing into light—The “blast”— Culture in plain water, sand, or moss fibre—Chinese sacred lily—Trumpet daffodils in hyacinth glasses— Feeding. For parlour and library or any place where . there is more or less danger of damage to car- pets and furniture from overflow watering of potted plants, the method of growing bulbs in glasses of water, bowls of pebbles and wa- ter, and moss or fibre and water has much to recommend it. The ladies of the family usu- ally find much pleasure in growing a few flow- ers in this way and the early varieties can easily be made to bloom by Christmas time. Whatever the method adopted, the pro- cedure is substantially the same in all cases. The vessel holding the bulb and the water is put into an airy cool cellar, garret, storeroom, or cold pit, in dim light—not into a close confined closet-—and kept there until 63 64 DAFFODILS——NARCISSUS the bulbs are rooted. The time required is five to six weeks for the polyanthus varieties, and ten to twelve weeks for the hardy varie- ties. By this time, the tops will also have grown an inch or two. At this stage, remove to a light room with a temperature of about 40° to 50° for two or three weeks or until the growth and buds are prettty well developed, when the plants may be placed where they are to be used for their decorative effect. . The object of starting the growth very cool at first and reaching warmth by progressive degrees is to have the bulbs first make roots, and then a sturdy growth and produce flow- ers of greater substance and lasting qualities. Too much warmth, especially at first, induces long, limp leaves and is apt to cause the flow- ers to “‘blast,” i. e. fail to open the sheath. Daffodils may be successfully grown in glasses by using ordinary hyacinth glasses filled with soft or rain water, not quite touch- ing the bottom of the bulb. A lump of char- coal in the bottom assists in keeping the wa- ter sweet. Replenish the water as evapora- tion reduces the quantity and change entirely every week or two, or whenever there is an WATER CULTURE IN THE HOUSE 65 indication of its getting stale. A pinch of some soluble plant food, purchasable at seed stores, in each glass of water once a week while the plants are in bud and blooming will be of great benefit. Probably any of the early flowering daffo- dils may be grown in this way but the follow- ing trumpet varieties have proven well adapted: Henry Irving, Golden Spur, Hors- fieldi, Victoria, and Double Van Sion. THE CHINESE SACRED LILY IN WATER Varieties of the polyanthus section, espec- ially the so-called “Chinese Sacred Lily” give very beautiful resulfs when grown in glass bowls filled with pebbles and water. The pebbles are used merely to support the bulb. Use shallow bowls, place a little granulated charcoal in the bottom to keep the water sweet, and cover with a one-inch layer of bird- gravel or sand. Set the bulbs on this nearly touching one another, three or more to a bow] according to size. Fill in with white pebbles, or, if they are not available, more bird-gravel. This will prevent the plant from toppling over when in leaf and bloom. Pour in water 66 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS until it almost reaches the bulbs. Place in a cool spot to root, and grow on in a low tem- perature as advised in the preceding pages. Replenish the water as it evaporates and occasionally change if it shows any signs of getting stale. Some of the early flowering trumpet daffo- dils may also be grown in this way, but the kinds of narcissus almost infallibly successful are the Tazetta varieties, especially gloriosa, Grand Soleil d’Or, Grand Monarque, Maes- tro, Paper White, and particularly the Chi- nese sacred lily, the latter coming into bloom the quickest of any, often in six weeks from planting. By making an incision just through the skin across the bulbs of the Chinese variety and about an inch from the top of the main bulb, it will liberate an additional lot of leaves and flowers. By this method one bulb will often bear eight to twelve spikes of bloom. FIBRE OR MOSS AND WATER This is perhaps the best and most success- ful of all methods of water culture. Use bowls, pots, or jardinieres without holes. WATER CULTURE IN THE HOUSE 67 To prepare the medium, take one part of cocoanut fibre—or if that is not available, sphagnum moss—and add to it one pint of granulated charcoal and one quart of washed sand or bird-gravel. Mix thoroughly. It will probably be necessary to tear the fibre or moss to pieces to accomplish this. Place about two inches of this material in the bot- tom of the jardiniere, put the bulbs on it, nearly touching one another, and fill in with more material, making all quite compact, but do not jam too tight. Leave only a portion of the necks of the bulbs exposed. Water to thoroughly moisten the fibre all through; and turn the vessel on its side until all surplus water has drained off. Rooting can be done in any cool, airy room; and, for the rest, follow the directions given in the preceding paragraphs. The fibre must never be allowed to get dry—neither must it be so freely watered that it becomes soggy, at least not until the plants are in bud and blooming, during which period they will stand more water. As stimulating food for the bulbs grown by the moss and water method a little weak 68 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS manure water the strength of brown tea may be used, but I prefer the soluble plant food tablets on sale at the seed stores. They are clean, odourless and quickly dissolved in warm water. Dissolve one tablet to a gallon of water and give each pot a tablespoonful of this solution once a week. All hardy varieties previously recom- mended for pot culture, and all of the half- hardy polyanthus varieties, may be grown in fibre or moss and water—preference being given to the early and mid-season flowering kinds. Some English amateurs have been most successful with the method. A report of a daf- fodil show at Bideford states: ‘Especially noticeable were Mrs. Hobhouse’s six trum- pet daffodils, grown in moss fibre—Golden Spur, Empress, Mrs. Thompson, Victoria, princeps, and albicans. These were a mass of bloom, containing over 100 fully-devel- oped flowers, size and quality leaving noth- ing to be desired, while the foliage was per- fect. The best pot of daffodils in the show, and which deservedly won the silver medal, was grown by Miss Farrington, and had WATER CULTURE IN THE HOUSE 69 twenty splendid flowers of Sir Watkin. The whole pot was as sturdy as if grown in the open and in the most congenial soil. This shows what can be done with moss fibre.” CHAPTER V¥ THe COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION OF CUT FLOWERS The florist’s special requirements—Economy of bench space —Making flats—Burying in the open—Temperatures— When to water—Feeding and stimulating—Profitable forcing varieties—Causes of failure—A new industry— Daffodil cut flower farms—Field culture in the South —Preparation of the ground—Shipping the flowers. THE florist whose sole object is to produce during winter, under glass, a large quantity of high quality flowers in a small space with the minimum of labor and expense grows his daffodils in ‘flats.’ The cultural details in this case, however, do not differ materially from those already described in Chapter III, though here the routine of handling is more specialised. FORCING IN FLATS Flats are shallow boxes or trays about four inches deep and of a size approximating 12 to 18 inches, though the actual size should 7o COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION 71 be such that they may be placed on the green- house bench without loss of room. A flat of ~ the dimensions given will hold 36 to 48 bulbs, according to size, allowing a space of from I-2 inch to 1 inch between -bulbs, which is sufficient. The reason for using flats is to é€conomise space, enabling one-third more bulbs to be grown to a square foot of bench than could be done in pots or pans. The flow- ers produced in flats are exclusively for cut- ting and they are nearly as good as those pro- duced in any other way. The flat should have a few holes or a couple of slits or cracks in the bottom to permit free drainage, these openings being covered with moss, fibre, or the fibrous roots from old sod to prevent soil from washing out. Put over this an inch of the prepared soil and set in the bulbs, using, of course, only one va- riety to a flat. Fill in with more mould to within half an inch of the top of the flat; give a good watering if the soil is dry and place —preferably—in an uncovered frame. Fin- ally cover the flats with old leaf mould, ashes, tanbark, or soil to a depth of three or four inches. ~ 72 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS The buried flats or boxes are now to re- main without any further attention, not even watering, until the bulbs are thoroughly rooted, which will require: for the Paper White and early flowering Tazetta varieties from five to six weeks, and for the hardy varie- ties, the trumpets, etc., from ten to twelve weeks. The earlier the normal flowering time of a variety the quicker it roots. BRINGING INTO WARMTH When the bulbs are well rooted the mulch- ing is removed and the flats taken into a cold shed, cold greenhouse, or pit with a tempera- ture of from 45°to 50°, and kept there until the foliage has grown somewhat and the buds are well up. From here a few flats are taken at different intervals, when a succession of bloom is desired, into the greenhouse or con- servatory, for flowering. Even here a tem- perature of from 60° to 65° is high enough for the best flowers. The early flowering Tazetta varieties can stand a slightly higher temperature with some loss of substance only; but the later flowering and hardy varieties will in all probability fail to develop their COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION 73 flowers—‘‘go blind,” as it is termed, in a high temperature. As soon as the flats are brought indoors, watering must be attended to carefully, espee blooming. At this stage of growth daffodils will consume great quantities of water and a meagre supply is sure to result in poor flow- ers, if not in absolute failure. A moist atmo- sphere should be kept in the greenhouse to as-. sist the flower sheaths in opening, in fact an occasional good syringing is advisable for this very purpose. In the open air, the wind and rain, and the movement of the plants as- sist in opening the sheath and in preventing its drying up and strangling the enclosed flower. Manure water diluted with water to the colour. of weak tea, applied once a week (about a pint to a flat), will materially assist in the production of large, well-formed flowers. Bottom heat must not be given. Some varie- ties, particularly those of the poeticus family, or in which the poeticus blood predominates, resent heat. Even though well rooted, they cannot be forced beyond their limit. A case in point: A well-rooted batch of poeticus or- 74 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS natus was brought into heat too quickly and the top growth simply stood still—it would not budge with six weeks of forcing. The grower finally in disgust threw the flats out of doors where the bulbs encountered the rigours of frost and snow, but with the ad- vent of spring weather developed plump buds and later splendid flowers. This will empha- sise the vital importance of making haste slowly when forcing the naturally late-flower- ing kinds. A good rule to keep in mind when forcing hardy narcissus is: Temperature 40° for roots, then 50” until the buds are through the necks, then 60° to 65° for best and most substantial flowers and foliage, 70° to 80° to rush growth and bloom with loss of substance and danger of going “blind.” VARIETIES FOR FLAT CULTURE All the undermentioned varieties (page 75) will “force.” It is understood that the early flowering varieties can be held back to flower later than the time specified; but the late-flowering sorts cannot safely be brought in bloom before the time mentioned. Some of -xIua0yg inyd[ns pue odureiC uoIg uBA sIqnod woes afqnog snjeuio snorjeod apqyA—snoiy0g snnoidsuos iWieg eqiodns e][2}s Aynesg SOL yey UppeAA IIS AO]]PA—Joduin3} WINIpPIP yes op ‘omyy uosdwoyy, ‘SI wmuey “SIyl sueorqie snsonj10} ayyAM—joduins, ie] dug “mW IPIPYSTOH PHOPIA mwue) ‘Wa Lf ssoidury}] (e0ueysqns 100d) sdaoutid snojoo-1q yedunsy 93387 sofeur sniinds ued “Y ‘d snqoyians Burary Aruazy usprey Jo A101 sossdury indg wepjoy moyos—jaduns} o31eT sniopipues3s sy Jadeg ayyM—snyyuesjog TPseyl pue “goat IMOTY OL aqe'y ‘qaq pue ‘uel JoMO,yT OL woseas-pIy ‘uef pue ‘aq. JeMOT_ OL Ateg anojoj pue adéy, SLVTd NI ONIOXOA AOL STIGOLAVA 76 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS the varieties named may be a little too high priced for general commercial work; but will be found beautiful for private use where qual- ity, irrespective of cost, is more considered. While the forcing into early bloom is a comparatively easy matter for the experienced commercial grower and well-informed pri- vate gardener, yet there are others to whom success is not always assured. Their failures are usually traceable to neglect of some one or more of three things: rst, early planting; 2nd, cool treatment (45° to 50°) until the buds are well through the necks; 3rd, plenty of water and a moist atmosphere while in bud and bloom. FIELD CULTURE FOR MARKET FLOWERS Within the last few years a new industry has been developed in the United States, the growing of daffodils under field culture for the production of cut flowers for market. Though yet in its infancy, there does not seem to be any reason why this industry should not attain considerable proportions. There are three establishments of this kind of which Pirate 1X PAPER-WHITE NARCISSUS AS A PARLOUR PLANT It may be grown in bowls of water dike the Chinese Sacred Lily and can be had in flower before Christmas if potted in August and brought into the light as soon as rooted (six to eight weeks) PrLate X A flat measuring 12x 18xz4 inches will accommodate three to four dozen bulbs. Water thoroughly and place under cover, either in a frame or buried in the open ground under light soil or salt hay until rooted. Polyanthus varieties root in six weeks; trumpet varieties in ten to twelve weeks. After rooting, take the flats into a cold shed (temperature 45° to 60°), keeping them there until the foliage and buds are well up. From this cold shed they can be brought in for forcing as required, in a temperature of 60° to 65° COMMERCIAL CULTIVATION IN FLATS COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION 77 I have personal knowledge, and probably there are others. The pioneer daffodil farm is near Peters- burg, Va., a second started up near Ports- mouth, Va., and the third is situated a few miles southeast of St. Louis, Mo. It is significant that these three daffodil farms are situated in practically the same lati- tude; not too far south for the well doing of hardy daffodils, and yet not so far north but that their open ground flowers can be pro- duced sufficiently early to compete—especially for Easter trade—with the daffodils forced under glass in the North. These farms com- mence to cut flowers in March. A FLOWER “FARM” The soil of the Petersburg daffodil farm is ordinarily good “‘corn ground,” a long cul- tivated sandy loam. This was manured heav- ily and plowed. A subsoil plow followed in the furrow to break the hardpan and open the subsoil, mole-track like, to a depth of eighteen inches. A crop of cowpeas was grown on the land and plowed under in the fall. The next 78 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS spring this ground was again plowed and harrowed, leaving the soil in a fine mechanical condition—a rich deep sandy loam, with mois- ture holding humus. Planting is done in July and August, the bulbs being dropped four to six inches apart in furrows plowed out six inches deep. Five or six furrows, one foot apart, constitute a bed, and the beds are separated by a three- foot walk. These walks are for the conven- ience of the flower gatherers, affording a con- venient place to set the baskets, preventing in- jury to the plants. In early winter a top dressing of strawy manure is placed over the beds and is allowed to remain as the growers think that longer stems are thus produced. The first spring after planting only a fair crop of medium-sized flowers is produced— possibly because the more expensive, large- sized, bulbs are not planted. But the second year after planting, and for three or four years more, great quantities of long-stemmed flowers are gathered. About the fifth or sixth year after planting the bulbs become crowded as a result of natural increase and the flowers they bear are smaller and less salable. COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION 79 Consequently they are dug up, separated, and replanted in fresh ground. GATHERING WITH LONG STEMS The flowers are gathered when only about half open for they develop quickly after they reach the customer and the stems are put into water. As long stemmed flowers are de- manded in the markets, the stems are pulled as long as possible, not cut nor broken off. As the flowers are gathered in the field they are stood up in baskets, and carried to the packing shed where the stems are placed in tubs of water, to absorb moisture and freshen up the flowers. Girls now pick them out, one by one, tieing them in bunches of twenty-five. The bunches are long, flat, and one sided, a layer of two or three flowers, then an under layer, and so on, every care being exercised so that the flowers are not bruised or broken. The bunches are then packed for shipment in light, wooden boxes,—paper lined, to retain a moist atmosphere—and sent by express to various city flower markets. Very many varieties may be grown under field culture for cut flowers, but naturally the 80 DAF FODILS—-NARCISSUS expensive, newer, large-flowering hybrids can- not be used with profit, for the bulbs must be planted by the thousands. So long as the flow- ers are of good-size with long stems, all varie- ties seem to bring the grower about the same average price, 5oc. for a hundred flowers, though early in the season they often realise double that figure or more; but late in the sea- son the return is much less. For this reason the old reliable medium-priced standard sorts mentioned below are chosen. ‘These, well grown, produce large marketable flowers on long stems, and the different kinds furnish succession of bloom for two months or more. DAFFODILS FOR CUT FLOWERS OUTDOORS. Type Name Season Large trumpet, yellow Henry Irving Early rugilobus Early Golden Spur Early Double Van Sion Early 7 Emperor Mid-season bicolor Horsfieldi Early Victoria Early Empress Mid-season Medium trumpet, crown, Jincomparabilis Sir Watkin |Early or cup incomparabilis Autocrat |Mid-season stella superba Mid-season Barrii_conspicuus Late Leedsii. Dutchess of Tate Westminster noeticus ornatus Late CHAPTER VI NATURALISING IN THE GRASS The lesson from nature—Where to plant—How to colonise in meadows—Where delicate kinds flourish—Methods of planting—Hardy varieties naturalised in New Eng- land—The Tazetta in Bermuda—What to Plant. “NATURALISING” is a most effective method of planting daffodils. By this term I mean planted broadcast in quantity in field, meadow, open woodland or the wilder por- tions of the estate, and left alone to flourish and spread along natural lines. All the hardy daffodils may be naturalised, the wild types doing the best while the larger flowering modern hybrids are likely to “run out’’; that is to say, they may lose their size, and dete- riorate toward the parental types. The effect of the daffodil blooms mingling among the grass is one that cannot well be described in words. The army of graceful flowers nodding and waving with the breeze is entrancingly beautiful. The greater the quantity used, the more the pleasure derived. 81 82 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS It is the collective view of the mass that at- tracts and not a close analysis of the indi- vidual flowers. The naturaliser should make his plantings simulate nature’s distribution of plants. Do not plant bulbs evenly over the field, in serried ranks, but take double handfuls of the bulbs and, as it were, scoop them out over the sur- face of the ground in irregular masses, plant- ing them where they fall, dense in one place, thin in another. Scattered in this way, they grow with a natural effect which is little dis- tinguishable from the handiwork of Nature herself. COLONIZING IN MEADOWS In the meadows of England the Double Van Sion, or N. telamonius var. plenus, covers acre upon acre. Colonies may be established wherever there is a bit of grassland that need not be mown before the end of June, for narcissus leaves must not be cut before the bulbs are thorough- ly ripe if flowers are desired the next season. The charm of a mass of daffodils in flower is often enhanced when it is opened to our view NATURALISING IN GRASS 83 in unexpected places. A colony in flower with a background of sombre tree-trunks is contrastingly effective, a group on the bank of a stream, pond or lake with reflections of the flowers mirrored in the water is entran- cing. A pocket of soil beneath some boulder on the hillside enlivened with daffodils will be a gem. Dozens of locations will suggest themselves to those who catch the spirit of planting daffodils to simulate nature’s plant- ings. But only those who have seen narcissus and daffodils naturalised can fully appreciate their wealth of beauty, creating a picture not unlike a cloud of gold and silver butterflies resting on the turf—yet ever restless, nodding and fluttering. THE MATTER OF SITE AND SOIL Naturalising is so universally successful because the bulbs when grown thus are not so particular as to soil as when grown under garden cultivation. ‘Planted in grass they are in an ideal home; the turf is sweet and free from manure, the soil’s moisture and tem- perature are more evenly maintained, and, moreover, the grass-roots bind together the 84 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS upper and lower strata of soil, rendering the bulbs less susceptible to the tearing of alter- nate freezing and thawing, and the winter mulch or protection of dead grass is better than what we can supply under artificial con- ditions; therefore it is not to be wondered at that many delicate varieties often thrive for years under these conditions but die out after a season or two in the garden. At the same time, if a variety of soils and situations are available, choice should be made to suit variety to soil. Thus, on the heavy, moist, lowland, plant the poeticus and odorus families and on the high land, with lighter soil, the white trumpets which revel in checkered sun and shade. Almost any situa- tion will answer for the other classes; viz: the all-yellow and bi-colour trumpets, and va- rieties of the incomparabilis, Barii, Burbidgei and Leedsii groups. In moist, heavy soils daffodils increase by offsets and then grow in clumps. In harder ground the increase is mostly from seed and the plants grow singly. ART IN GROUPING If group planting is followed, never mix NATURALISING IN GRASS 85 two varieties, but plant each kind by itself. It is quite permissable and indeed very effective to plant two or three groups, early, mid-sea- son and late-flowering sorts, in proximity so as to keep up a longer display of bloom. Ar- range the groups or collections of groups so there will be a liberal breadth of grass be- tween to act as a foil. Plant the bulbs with a bounteous hand—about six inches apart—not less than twenty-five bulbs of one kind to a group— though 100 to 1,000 will be better if the area of ground permits. Arrange the groups with irregular outlines, having a dense patch, not necessarily at the centre, as a focus point for the eye; no circles, no squares, no rows, and no two groups alike. Another method of natural planting, espe- cially suitable for borders and shrubbery, is in dense, irregular clumps. Old plantings of bulbs will often take on this character, and in truth, as the influence of time is felt, irregu- larity of distribution with heavy, dense masses irregularly outlined here and there, is the ul- timate disposition. This effect is due to two prime causes of planting in natural, or unpre- pared soil; namely, that certain bulbs find ex- 86 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS ceptionally congenial situations, while others are set in spots absolutely uncongenial and consequently die. HOW TO PLANT BULBS IN TURF The bulbs are most quickly planted when the ground is soft after a rain. I then use a spade handle, sharpened dibber-like. A cross piece, mortised in and securely bolted about eight inches from the point, serves as a foot rest to assist in thrusting the dibber in the earth. Working the handle a little enlarges the hole at the bottom large enough to re- ceive the base of the bulb which should be about six inches below the surface. After dropping in a bulb, fill in with a handful of soil. The bulb will thus have a covering of soil three to four inches deep. Another method that is quite expeditious and satisfactory is called ‘“‘notch planting.” A sloping cut is made with a spade, the turf and soil being pried up and held by a man while a boy places two or three bulbs in the cleft. The turf is then tramped back firmly. The bulbs in this style of planting lie inclined NATURALISING IN GRASS 87 on their sides, but it does not seem to make any difference for the growth comes up straight above the surface. VARIETIES FOR NATURALISING For naturalising in lawns which have to be cut in May the following extra early flower- ing miniature daffodils may be utilised: trum- pet minimus, cyclamineus, moschatus (Span- ish), trumpet minor and capax plenus. They make a beautiful picture when in flower against the green grass carpet, and will be suf- ficiently matured not to be injured for the next season’s blooming if the grass is not mown before May. TRUMPETS IN NEW ENGLAND There is an impression in some quarters that the trumpet daffodils cannot be natura- lised as far north as New England, but Mr. John Parkinson, of Boston, is said to have large groups of Emperor and Empress plan- ted twenty years ago on his country estate, at Bourne, Mass. At the Ames Estate, North ‘suivai1s Suope syreq 10j aqeyns ‘apeys [ensed ur ysaq aay, any 0oz sn} juny oo xmMayg mytynsjuny oo-z = uo1g urA ayqnod -eiopo snuad snqje})uny oof xIuaYyg esuerOluny oorz *]d “y styiqereduroour BursaMoy ayqnoq pny oS°£ SIBUNAPT, /UNY OS1 ayausedmey yoynqd{|any coz snsomn3nil [tnbuof uny oor slainoaijuny o$'r snyeusojuny oS°f xoowid snoija0d snoj20g uny 0$'z qivg sausyyuny os'e yeysyey]|uny osz ureg uygofl pPspiqing unt o$"2 aofeu }uOosTaN EI ING any 00'e ~ snnordsuoo!}uny ooh = UlsOWTIA aoLIney{}unY 00°~ aayqdig meg any 00°F yerig sp ‘owyy/uny oo-z auInyyY suurpy}ung oS ssayonq puerix uny 0S'z AUSueT ‘ss /uny o$1 yUuesqeig ep ssayoq|uny coz siiqeury ispaa'T uny 00°? yyeIjoH juny ooh eqiodns erjaysl}uny oo-z ueIy uny 00°F Ayneag {juny oo'z yersojny |uny o$*e upeM dsl sipiqeieduiosuy uny 00°S Surploy ‘wAy}uny co's uosdwoyy, ‘say/uny oof xoozid snpryed, ung 00'0r wwe) “sifl/UnY 00°F suvoig;y|uny oor snjzeyssoul, ayyM joduns} aie] uny 00°z sapuein|uny oS'r snssioieu-opnasd,|uny oo-z snoij09S, uny oof seiooaqeg, |UNY 0o'€ Ipjaysiop|uny oo'z sdsoutid Aojoo1q jeduins} aBiey uny oo°z snqo][8n3) uny oS*z iofem sntinds, ung oo'f s1eq “Y ‘d}juny oor Aapayiog “4 “Wluny oof slie]jeaqo, ang ooz$ snsslosqe,,{uny oo°€$ sosadurg t}uny oo-b$ aIndg uepjor MOTIA Jodurnsz} a31e-T BuLsMOTT 2387 uoseas-plyyL BulIaMO[ A[IeT adky, SSVUO NI ONISIIVYNLVN WOT SAILLANIVA ATAVIIAS qWOs NATURALISING IN GRASS 89 Easton, these varieties, together with prin- ceps and Golden Spur, are naturalised in a spot where the soil is always quite damp; they have now been planted seven years and show a gratifying increase, but it is noted that the smaller white flowered Leedsii varieties increase faster than those of the large trum- pets. On the other hand, Mr. E. O. Orpet at South Lancaster reports that he finds that the trumpets do better where the soil dries out during the summer resting period of the bulbs. In warm climates, the Tazettas or polyan- thus narcissus will naturalise and spread like weeds. On the island of Bermuda one of these charming varieties has escaped from cultivation and has become as firmly estab- lished as any wild native. In this congenial climate there are narcissus flowers from De- cember to July. The residents assert that these narcissus have been growing in the same places “‘since they could remember.” CHAPTER VIL MINIATURE DaFFropiILs For THE Rock GARDEN Little gems that would be lost in the border—Mountain species to grow only in rock pockets and special soils. THERE are a number of dainty little-flow- ered members of the daffodil family, of per- fect form, that if planted in the garden and border would be practically lost to sight, yet they are gems when grouped, a dozen or more of a kind, two to four inches apart, in the soil pockets of a rockery. In fact, some of these “tiny tims” were found wild in the fastnesses of mountains, growing in the crevices of rocks in little pockets of gritty soil and they do not seem able to live in cultivation unless in a properly built rockery—or rock garden —with well-drained soil pockets leading clear to the surface of the ground—filled in with gritty, peaty, soil and positively no manure. They thrive to perfection under suitable con- ditions and increase for several years. If a 90 epeys jenieg weo, Apues{ saqour 2 Aaey MOT[PA [[e—Jaduinsy [PLUS sour jodummsy opeys [eieg [los Ayeag soyour € Aseyy MOTok—Jaduindy = ainyeruryy sniutuim yaduinsy SPeYs IPHCd) ros £49133 ‘pouresq| 8°49Ur 4) uosvas-pryy |mojjad aBse,—, ssvay s,ja3uy,, Jo[OIII0D Snapuery SPeys TPIEd! fos £34129 ‘pourerq| S°4Ur 4/uoseas-pryy joy o8se]—, s1vaz s,josuy,, snUry)eyRo snapuesy Speys [242d | jros £34138 ‘pauresq| S°4PUE 4/uosvas-piyy aUYM— SPIT §,[23uy,, snqe snapuery Uns porxa94 weo, Apueg] Seyour 9 Ase yodurnsy oyrym oanqururyy (uredg jo) snyeqosour yoduinsy Mojas YAM opegqs jenieg weo, Apues| seyour > a7eT) ayy = sojoorq: = aanyerury, rreapoe yy MOTJIA opeys [ese gd) pros pauresp ‘Ay1IH] ‘ur b 07 & eT) yor — yinbuof ainyeruryy] sniypoyrount [poyep opeqs yenied weol slow) sayour 9 Ajseq)| pesomoy uauejsto moyjax snauiueloso HPOUep pues j [ep] meo, Apues| sayour 2 Ajseq] wows, ojqnop s,auuy uaonG snuajd xedeo yoou fip Auung yoou Ap Auuns|) sayour 9 Apseq ovIp oY M|enyxqdouow umrpoooqging k194N01 JO 3007 aInjzsIoJ| saqour 9] uoseas-pryy op MOT]PR woz snursy1o wniposoqing £19401 jo yoo o4njsloyy sayour 9 ayey yeoonjad-dooy yz MOA snnoidsuos untposoqing uonenys [os qs uosLas uondisosaq owen “SULPAA MOON WO ATAVLINS SHGOdIVd Cay IMOTL UR A.LVINTA 92 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS: low growth of alpine plants, hardy mosses or even short fine-leaved grass can carpet their nests, the bulbs seem to last longer; moreover, such a mulch keeps the rain from splashing dirt on to the flowers, and, peeping through the green, they present a picture in the spring far out of the ordinary. All those named in the adjoining table are adapted to rock-culture, the special require- ments of each being given in the last column. ued satjariva snyyuesjod a1) BULIAMOP OF .§9 0} ,09 JO ainyeradura} © WWM ssnoyuse13 (amyesadunay oysry APTS & purrs radu} 8 UJIM pays JO ssnoyuaaid pjod v oFW] padowias are sqinq Pajoor jo SY Pd LL JOULIEM B OJ Jaze] pue ‘08 0} Sh Jo ainye SUAMOTA LAD JO NOILONGOUd TIVIDUANNOD IX aLv1d Ivat puorws v Joy syjnq OY} PALS O} JoyjIOY JOU Soop PUL PUNO oY] OF Isvul[9 aTerjoy pue siaMmoy oy1 synd A[durrs ySlIop IT, ONILLINO UOT AACVAUN SYAIMOTA AO LVTA V ILX divig CHAPTER VIII Tue ONE INSECT AND ONE DISEASE THE daffodil amateur has a happy lot in the matter of diseases and insects. No green fly to suck the juices, no host of invad- ing bugs to chew up the results of the year’s work; nor are there rusts or anthracnose that must be sprayed with poisons. The daffodils flower and ripen their foliage before any of the everyday pests of the garden are awakened for the season. And after that, even, they are comparatively safe, for the bulbs are usu- ally distasteful to moles and mice, which turn to them only when all else fails; and foli- age nor plants are not relished by either browsing animals or by birds. Daffodils may not be immune, however, for the sparrows have made a start. In the spring of 1906, I noticed for the first time that a few of the earliest daffodil flowers were being nipped by these birds. Incident: ally the variety was Early Bird. Daffodil salad evidently was not to their liking, 93 94 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS for the little pieces torn from the flow- ers were found scattered about nearby. Af- ter tasting the flowers for a day or two, they left them alone for the rest of the season. THE BASAL ROT DISEASE The one serious pest of the daffodil is a fungous disease, ‘‘basal rot,”’ a sort of dry rot which starts at the base, and, working up through the centre of the bulb, soon destroys it. To a casual observer the exterior of the affected bulb (with the heart and centre en- tirely eaten away) may appear to be in per- fect condition. A bulb so infected cannot be cured and should never be planted for fear of spreading the disease. Before planting bulbs of varieties that are especially liable to basal rot, they should be carefully examined. Press each bulb firmly near the base, between the thumb and fore- finger. A really sound, healthy bulb is firm, hard and unyielding. On the other hand, if it is soft and yielding, it is suspicious. These soft bulbs should not be planted near healthy stock. If a pinch higher up the bulb still develops a yielding softness, the presence of ONE INSECT AND ONE DISEASE 95 basal rot well advanced is almost positively indicated. In such a case do not hesitate, take no risks, but destroy the bulb at once; and destroy means “‘burn.”’ The disease is favoured by heavy wet soils, highly manured soils and cold seasons. The remedy is to replant the bulbs in drier, warmer, higher ground, or in raised and bet- ter drained beds. Fortunately all sections of the family are not equally liable to the disease and those most subject to basal rot are the white trum- pet varieties; it sometimes attacks the Leed- sii, jonquil and Tazetta groups, but only rarely does it attack any others. THE NARCISSUS FLY I am very glad to say that I have had no personal acquaintance with the narcissus fly (Merodon equestris). Indeed it does not seem to have done much, if any, damage in the United States. Possibly our winters are too cold for the fly which hails from southern climes. In England and Holland, however, this pest seems to have become acclimated and is doing considerable havoc among the 96 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS daffodils, and we in America may not long be immune from its attacks. Having had no actual experience with the fly, I quote in sub- stance from European authorities: Dr. J. R. Bos of Holland, and Rev. W. Wilks of Eng- land: “The narcissus fly—nearly one half inch long and with wings expanded one inch across —is not unlike a small ‘bumble-bee’ though having only two wings and no sting. It hovers over the daffodil plants not unlike a humming bird, its wings moving as swiftly as it poses in one place for a minute or two— then suddenly it darts with lightning speed usually to the right or left, seldom straight ahead—making a sound between a shriek and a whistle, though of course, not so loud—yet great compared with the size of its author. It then settles down among the daffodil leaves and lays its eggs near the top of the bulb. It will probably lay 100 eggs at different times during its season from May to July. The eggs seem to hatch quickly, the little grubs finding their way in to the bulb when their destruc- tive work commences. There they live on the tissues and heart of the bulb until autumn ONE INSECT AND ONE DISEASE 97 when they eat their way out and hibernate in the ground in chrysalis form until spring when the fly hatches out and begins its annual cycle.” Imported bulbs of the lower priced cheaper grades may be to some extent infected. A blackish spot the size of a pin’s head near the shoulder of the bulb is suspiciously indicative that a grub has entered. If a similar and larger spot is found near the base of the bulb your suspicions are likely to be well founded, for it is customary for these grubs to make the second hole as an outlet for the frass. Of course, to be on the safe side, you will destroy infected bulbs with their inhabitants and this is not any sacrifice, because only healthy bulbs will give perfect flowers. Where the flies do appear they are trapped on plates containing thick molasses in the centre with edges smeared with honey to attract them. Of course, there are some other minor di- seases and troubles, but their total result amounts to practically nothing. As affecting the gardener, for whom this book is written they may be ignored, and so are dismissed with this bare reference. CHAPTER IX STRAIGHTENING DarropIL NOMENCLA- TURE AND CLASSIFICATION Up to a hundred years ago, when there were comparatively few kinds or varieties in this now numerous family, the old system of naming—always descriptive—answered ad- mirably; but, with the advent of numer- ous intermediate types, perhaps combining the distinctive forms of both parents, and so to be classed with neither, something else became imperative. The old name “Pseudo-Narcissus albus aureus,” signify- ing the large yellow trumpet daffodil with white perianth petals, could now be applied to a dozen or more varieties, each one of which has a distinct individuality. After several fruitless efforts had been made to straighten out the nomenclature by retaining the old Latin names, light was at last shed by Mr. J. G. Baker, in 1869, whose arrange- ment of the genus into three main sub-divi- 98 NOMENCLATURE—-CLASSIFICATION 99 sions stands to-day. These are respectively magni-coronati, medio-coronati, and parvi- coronati, wittily interpreted into “long-nosed” “Short-nosed’”? and “‘snub-nosed,”” now com- monly spoken of as trumpet, cup and saucer. (Editor’s Note: These three popular terms are intro- duced as being entirely logical and descriptive. The word “crown” that has sometimes been used to indicate the en- tire medio-coronati sub-division, is inadequate since it is a translation of part of the Latin designation of all three sub-divisions.) Baker’s arrangement with a few modifica- tions received official approval at the Daffo- dil Conference of the Royal Horticultural Society held in London in 1884. The matter of future nomenclature was solved by the adoption of the following resolution: RESOLVED: “That in the opinion of this conference, uni- formity of nomenclature is most desirable, and that garden varieties of narcissus, whether known hybrids or natural seedlings, should be named or numbered in the manner adopted by florists and not in the manner adopted by botanists.” Under this ruling all recent varieties are given English names, the Latin titles being retained for the old species, sub-species and wild hybrids. To a very great degree, the botanical sub- divisions of the family agree with the garden 100 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS groups and they are conveniently considered in that light. The genus Narcissus has species of two distinct types of foliage: flat-leaved, which characterises the trumpet daffodils as well as the poet’s and Tazetta narcissus; and the rush-leaved, which is found in jonquils, and which are thereby pretty well isolated into a distinct garden group. For the practical man’s convenience, in the following chapters, the garden, or hor- ticultural significance of the types and sec- tions has been considered, rather than their exact botanical sequence, and the varieties are listed according to these artificial but prac- tical garden groups as follows: GROUP I.—THE GIANT-TRUMPET OR AJAX DAFFODILS Embracing all the one-flowered varieties having a cyclindrical, or funnel-shaped trum- pet at least three-quarters as long as the petals, which are spread horizontally, or are inclined forward; not deflexed. ‘These again are sub- divided as follows: A. B. NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION IOI Yellow Ajax; self yellow varieties derived from wild flowers of yellow N. Pseudo-Narcissus. White Ajax; white petals and white or sulphur trum- pets; descendants from N. moschatus and the Pyrenean form, N. pallidus praecox, both of which are marked sub-species of N. Pseudo-Narcissus. C. Bicolor Ajax; yellow trumpets and white petals; hy- brids of the two preceding groups. . GROUP II.—THE LESSER TRUMPETS Here are included two sections, Backhousei and Humei, both of which, botanically con- sidered, belong with the trumpet daffodils, but for garden purposes are separated from the Ajax group, partly on account of size as they are both comparatively smaller. N. N. Backhousei, hybrid of Ajax and N. incomparabilis. The trumpet often is as large as the petals and the crown itself often unflared, giving it a tubular appearance. There is considerable difficulty in the exact placing of this section, it being sometimes considered among large trumpet daffodils and at other times as belonging to the intermediate, or medium-crowned group which is composed entirely of hybrid forms between the first and third of Baker’s classification. Humei and its varieties (“Dog-Eared Daffodils”) are garden hybrids between N. Pseudo-Narcissus and N. incomparabilis, flower drooping and petals inclined forward. In other respects the flowers of this section agree with Group I. 102 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS GROUP IJI.—THE HOOP-PETTICOAT DAFFO- DILS A very distinct group, with conspicuous, wide-flaring trumpets and insignificant petals but the same colour as the trumpet; stamens deflexed, which does not occur in any other group; leaves rush-like. All varieties of N. Bulbocodium (sometimes spoken of as N. Corbularia). GROUP IV.—-CYCLAMEN-FLOWERED DAFFO- DILS This is an artificial group, but is well marked from the horticultural standpoint, be- cause the petals in the three sections which comprise this group are reflexed. All have comparatively large trumpets. A. N. cyclamineus; the yellow cyclamen-flowered daf- fodil (sometimes considered to be a sub-species of yellow Ajax). Sharply reflexed petals, so that the petals and trumpet form one continuous line; leaves flat. ; B. N. Johnstoni; Johnston’s cyclamen-flowered daffodils. Wild hybrids between an Ajax variety and the follow- ing, N. triandrus. The flowers of this group are similar to those of the large trumpet varieties with NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION 103 the exception of having reflexed petals; flat leaves. C. N. triandrus; white cyclamen-flowered daffodil, or “Angel’s Tears’; two or three flowers to a_ stem. White with petals well reflexed; flowers small; leaves rush-like. GROUP V.—MEDIUM-CROWNED HYBRIDS This large group of cup daffodils is a most interesting one and corresponds practi- cally to the second division of Baker’s mono- graph “the medio-coronati.” In this we con- sider seven hybrid groups which are distin- guished by the proportionate length of the trumpet which is now shortened to a cup. All are hybrids between the larger-crowned, or trumpet daffodils and the smaller-crowned or saucer narcissus. The sections as here grouped are in relation to the diminishing size of the crown or cup. A. N. incomparabilis; hybrid between yellow Ajax and N. poeticus; goblet-shaped crown one-third to three- quarters the length of the petals; colourjng, various. B. N. Nelsoni; Nelson’s goblet-cupped, or “shortened bi- colour”; garden hybrids between bicolor Ajax and N. poeticus. White petals; goblet-shaped crown more than one-half the length of the petals. C. N. Leedsiiy Leeds’ silver-winged star daffodils; hy- brids of white Ajax and N. poeticus. In ‘reality, 104 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS white and sulphur cupped forms of Barrii and incom- parabilis. D. N. montanus; the drooping silver-starred narcissus; natural hybrid possibly of N. moschatus and N. poeti- cus. Flower drooping; star-like perianth, pure white; cup white. E. N. Maclaei; a natural hybrid probably between bi- color Ajax and N. Tazetta, aptly described as “droop- ing baby bicolor.” Petals milk white, with bright golden-yellow crown two-thirds as long as the petals. FN. Barrii,; garden hybrids of various forms; hybrids of N. poeticus and an Ajax variety, while a cross of N. poeticus and N. incomparabilis will yield flowers of both Barrii and Burbidgei forms. Flowers usually smaller than those of N. incomparabilis borne nearly erect; cup always yellow and usually orange-reddish rimmed, wide-mouthed and one-fourth to one-third the length of the star-like yellow, or pale yellow petals. G. N. Bernardi; natural hybrid between N. abscissus (a yellow Ajax variety) and N. poeticus,; very variable; flowers with spreading white petals, twice as long as the yellow cup. GROUP VI.—THE POET’S NARCISSUS Late and comparatively late-flowered varie- ties in which the varieties of the white-petalled and fragrant poet’s narcissus, or hybrids which are marked by their shallow, saucer- like crowns, are included. N. poeticus with its varieties. Distinguished by pure white petals surrounding a small, round, flattened, NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION 105 saucer-like crown, not more than one-half the length of the petal and edged with carmine. B. N. biflorus; hybrid of N. Tazetta and N. poeticus. Flowers like N. poeticus in form and colour, but with- out the red brim to the cup and borne in clusters of two or three. This is Parkinson’s “primrose peerless” daffodil. C. N. Burbidgei; “dolly cup” narcissus; garden hybrid of N. incomparabilis and N. poeticus, closely resem- bling poeticus. Flowers borne singly; cup about one- fourth the length of the petals, and a trifle longer and not quite so flat as in N. poeticus; petals white, sulphur or yellow. Flowers earlier than poeticus. D. N. Englehearti; Engleheart’s flat-crowned poet’s nar- cissus; hybrids of N. poeticus and N. incomparabilis, many of which have been separated from the Burbid- gei section and may be aptly described as Burbidgei forms with fluted, or ruffled flat cups. GROUP VII.—THE JONQUILS AND CAMPER- NELLES Rush-leaved, yellow, cluster-flowered and deliciously scented, small-growing species and varieties which show a great range of varia- tion in themselves, and about which there is considerable confusion, one authority (Eng- lish) holding that the true Campernelle vari- ety has a flaring cup, and another (Dutch), equally competent, asserting the Campernelle has a spreading cup. It is in this manner 106 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS stocks are mixed and nomenclature becomes confused. A. N. Jonquilla; true sweet-scented jonquil; petals three to four times as long as the saucer-shaped shallow crown; though usually regarded as a species, has sometimes been supposed to be a hybrid between N. Tazetta and N. gracilis; very variable. B. N. odorus; Campernelle or giant jonquil; considered to be a hybrid between yellow Ajax and N. Jonquilla; larger than the preceding, wider petals and more up- right cup, more widely flared. C. N. gracilis; later flowering than the jonquil, opening yellow and fading with age. Petals spreading and imbricated. One to three flowered. D. N. juncifolius; “baby jonquil’; the very smallest species, generally bearing three bright yellow flowers, petals well imbricated, about twice as long as the cup which is often widely expanded; very variable; petals about one-third of an inch long. GROUP VIII.—THE TENDER, CLUSTER-FLOW- ERED NARCISSUS Including all the cluster-flowered, flat- leaved species which are not reliably hardy in the North, but which may be grown outdoors in the South and are excellent for forcing. A. N. Tazetta; remarkably variable; usually four to eight flowers; perianth segments white or yellow, well im- bricated and spreading horizontally; crown cup- NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION I 07 shaped, relatively small and generally yellow but white in some forms; popularly known as the polyan- thus narcissus. B. & C., N. orientalis: N. intermedius. These form a sub-section and which might be called “intermediate, cluster-flowered” narcissus. They are all natura} hybrids and so closely resemble the true Tazettas thay it is very difficult to separate them. More hardy, and the leaves of the N. intermedius group are more rush like than those of the true Tazettas. N. orientalis is supposed to be a hybrid between N. Tazetta and N. incomparabilis. Flat leaves. GROUP IX.—HARDY CLUSTER-FLOWERED NARCISSUS This group is likely to grow into consider- able importance through the acquisition of the new hybrids between N. poeticus and N. Tazetta. A. N. poetaz; cluster-flowered hybrids of N. poeticus and N. Tazetta, having individual flower characters very closely resembling the former one in colour and size. A most remarkable recent acquisition in the family. B. N. tridymus,; the long-crowned, cluster-flowered daffo- dils; hybrids between Ajax and N. Tazetta; individ- ual flowers resemble a small form of Nelsoni. They differ from all other cluster-flowered narcissus in the comparatively long crown. 108 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS GROUP X.—DOUBLE-FLOWERING NARCISSUS AND DAFFODILS Double forms of species or varieties from any of the foregoing groups. GROUP XI.—AUTUMN-FLOWERING NARCIS= SUS A few curious species of little garden value. [Norre—A botanical key to the species and sections of the genus Narcissus will be found in the Appendix, page 220.] THE NAMED VARIETIES In the following pages will be found de- scriptions of practically all the purchasable varieties of narcissus and daffodil, notes upon _their importance as garden plants and ap- proximate prices at this writing (1907). Many of the very newest seedlings are not yet on the market and so are ignored, al- though some of them will no doubt supersede varieties now grown. The catalogues of growers in Europe and \e x eer. - THE POET’S NARCISSUS IN LANDSCAPE EFFECT In conjunction with scenery, especially where water is used, the white poet’s narcissus will give most happy results. It prefers a heavy soil eau pue punoig AAvay uo snssiz1eu Saod ay} as «= “S|IPORep qm payueyd aq ued suN[ arojaq UMOUT aq }OU paau je} sseIsy NMV'T V NI GaSITIVYNLVYN SNSSIDUVN S.LAOd AIX SLV1g NOMENCLATURE—CLASSIFICATION 109 America have been thoroughly searched and the synonomy noted. For instance: ‘‘Abscis- sus” and “Muticus” represent the same vari- ety; “Emperor” and “Lorifolius Emperor” are the same; ‘‘Golden Spur” and “Spurius Golden Spur” are the same; “‘Grandis” and ‘““Grandee” are the same. ‘These different names for one variety are very bothersome to the beginner, as I know by experience. If the name of a variety be known, but not its class, reference must be had to the index, where it will be found in alphabetical order. EXPLANATION OF SIGNS. In the discriptions of narcissus and daffo- dils which follow various signs will be noted following the name of the variety, the mean- ings, of which are here explained: The letters: A, B, C, D, E, and F, indicate the degree of earliness or lateness in flowering in the open under ordi- nary weather conditions, the wintry weather not unduly extended into spring to retard the earlies, nor the summer suddenly bursting forth and hastening the flowering of the late varieties. During normal seasons the difference in time of flowering between the A’s and B’s and C’s, etc., should be from a week to ten days. We can not give the exact time that flowers are due for all latitudes and altitudes so have followed dates noted in the author’s grounds near New York City. Allow six days later for every hundred 110 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS miles north and six days earlier for every hundred miles south, on sea level. The varieties may be expected to flower near New York City as follows: Those marked A during the first and second weeks of April. Those marked B during the second and third weeks of April. Those marked C during the third and fourth weeks of April. Those marked D during the fourth week of April and first week of May. Those marked E during the first and second weeks of May. Those marked F during the second and third weeks of May. The season may be considerably ex- tended by planting in special situations and by other cultural conditions (see pages 41 and 42) so that daffodils outdoors may in fact be had for over three months. * Vigorous-growing, free-blooming; well suited for natur- alising. + Especially adapted for naturalising in partial shade or on slopes facing the north. {| For planting in gardens, herbaceous borders, etc., § For growing in pots, etc., for winter flowers. In regard to awards made to varieties, R. H. S. stands for Royal Horticultural Society, and R. B. S. for Royal Bo- tanic Society, both of London, England. CHAPTER X Tue Larce Trumpet DaFFopILs All varieties, regardless of size, belong to this group, if they have a tubular corona ex- panding trumpet-like at the mouth where it must be as broad as it is long; the trumpet not be less than three-quarters the length of the petals. This “large trumpet,” or daffodil, section is again sub-divided into three colour groups, viz: the “Ajax self,” or all yellow; the ‘Ajax bicolor,” or white winged yellow trumpets; and the “Ajax albino” or all-white varieties, ALL YELLOW TRUMPETS This group of more than 100 different named varieties has been developed from the wild N. Pseudo-Narcissus. The all-yellow trumpet varieties have greater adaptability to varying methods of cultivation in most cli- mates and soils than any other members of the family, are excellent for naturalising and for winter forcing. IIir T12 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS Asscissus. Syn: muticus. (D. 12 in. ¢ $2.50 hu.) A native of the French Pyrenees. Belongs to the broad- leaved lorifolius section and is one of the latest blooming of all trumpet daffodils. It is somewhat variable in size and form, though well-rogued cultivated strains usually produce large flowers with a much elongated trumpet of bright yellow and a sulphur-yellow perianth of twisted petals. It is a free pollen bearer and a parent of some of the best bi-colours. Well suited for naturalising. When mingled with the red-mouthed: poeticus types, flowering at the same time, they cross freely and produce many interesting hybrids, and, according to Mr. Max Leichtlin, “if we are to have scarlet daffodils this would be the beginning.” AcHILLES. (B. 15 in. * $2.50 hu.) A native of Guernsey, very early and free flowering. A handsome flower with rich yellow trumpet and a sulphury-yellow perianth. ADMIRAL MakarorF. (C. 20 in. § [$5 ea.) A new seed- ling, a fine large flower of the Emperor type: soft yellow trumpet, broad, smooth and straight with a wide-fluted mouth, perianth light yellow. ApmirAL Toco. (C. 20 in. § $2 ea.) A handsome seedling of strong growth and free-blooming qualities. A bold flower with widely expanded golden trumpet and broad canary-yellow perianth: desirable for pot culture and borders. Apa. (D. {soc ea.) A new seedling of strong growth, blooming very late. It produces a very large, finely-shaped flower with a long bright yellow trumpet and a soft canary-yellow perianth. Atvarez. (D. 6 in. $3 doz.) A new seedling, the miniature of Emperor. A sturdy plant of dwarf growth producing dainty, rich yellow flowers of much substance. Arp RicH. Syns: Irish King and Yellow King. (A 15 in. t$x doz.) An extra early flowering variety, a favourite for forcing and for naturalising. Freshly LARGE TRUMPET 113 manured soils rich in vegetable humus it resents, thriving best in a well-drained, coarse loam, Under congenial conditions, it produces splendid large flowers with deep yellow perianths and large, rich yellow trum- pets. It is one of the earliest of all large trumpets to bloom. Annual lifting is advisable as it becomes dormant early, and new root action soon begins—replanting should therefore be done not later than September. Bic Ben. (B. 21 in. § $2.50 ea.) One of the newer varieties ranking among the giant trumpets. The flowers measure about five inches across. Perianth sulphur yellow, trumpet yellow. A flower of good form and substance; a strong grower, free seeder, and very valuable for hy- bridising. Awarded certificate of merit by the Royal Botanic Society. Campricus. (B. {$x.50 doz.) A Welsh Lent lily; an early flowering beautiful variety; a favourite for natural- ising in turf; perianth sulphur, trumpet yellow Captain NELSON. (B. 13 in. § {[ $2.50 doz.) A large distinct and handsome early flower of soft, clear yellow; long incurving perianth petals; trumpet of gigantic size, long and spreading. A fine sort for pot and garden cul- ture: Awarded first-class certificate by the Royal Horti- cultural Society. Cervantes. (A. 15 in. § $1.50 doz.) A remarkably early flowering form of Princeps which it resembles in form. It is fully as large in size though of rather a diff- erent colour being a uniform pale primrose in tone. It can be flowered by Christmas if desired, and is valuable as un early market flower. C. H. Curtis, (C. 18 in. § [$1.50 ea.) A magnificent new variety similar to Monarch but much better; a very large flower of model form with a bold expanded trumpet ct golden yellow and a broad smooth perianth of deep primrose. CieopaTRaA. (D. § {ff $25 ea.) Another new variety T14 DAFFODILS——NARCISSUS resembling Monarch. It is one of the largest and most perfectly formed of all the giant yellow trumpets. The trumpet is long, bold and of deep yellow: the perianth rich yellow, its petals broad and gathered at the base. Like all the largest flowering sorts it is late in blooming. Especially good for pots and borders. Awarded the certi- ficate of merit from Birmingham and also from the Royal dorticultural Society of England. Coronatus. (B. 19 in. ¢ $5 doz.) An early flowering variety with a broadly expanded trumpet of rich yellow and a spreading light yellow perianth of wide petals. It thrives best in partially shaded situations, First-class certifi- cate, R. H. S. CounTEss OF ANNESLEY. (A. 15 in. T§ [$1.50 doz.) A vigorous, extra early flowering Irish daffodil with a dis- tinctive large bold flower, trumpet of a rich golden yellow well expanded, serrated and flanged: perianth sulphur, yellow, imbricated and hooded. Good for pot and border culture and useful for naturalising, thriving best in par- thal shade. Countess oF DesmonD. (B. 13 in. {$1.25 doz.) A de- sirable early free-flowering dwarf variety, producing a bold flower with a pale yellow trumpet, well flanged at the brim, and a perianth of soft primrose. Quite a gem when naturalised in the grass. Crom-a-Boo, Syn: Crown Frilled. (A. 15 in. f 5o0c. ea.) An extra early flowering daffodil, found wild in Ireland. The trumpet is frilled or gathered the whole length. Colour, a self yellow. It thrives best when naturalised in partial shade. Danie, Dewar. (B. * $1.50 doz.) A very early flower- ing daffodil, varying in colour from orange-yellow to cream white, this variation being often shown in one flower. It is a free seeder and splendid for naturalising in grass. Deriance. (A, 21 in. $3 ea.) A new daffodil with light LARGE TRUMPET I1§ yellow petals, and a beautifully twisted, large trumpet, golden yellow—well flanged at the brim. Earty Birp. Syn: North Star. (A. §9 $2 doz.) Per- haps the earliest yellow daffodil in cultivation. It is ad- mirably adapted for forcing, and if potted in September may be had in flower at Christmas. Out of doors it blooms two to three weeks earlier than any other sort. The flower ‘is of medium size and resembles the Tenby in outline. The colour is full yellow, the perianth perhaps slightly lighter in shade. Exiza Turck. (C. 11 in. § § * $1.50 doz.) A good-grow- ing, free-flowering dwarf variety, well suited for the front ef borders and edgings, for rock gardens and naturalising, as well as for pot culture. The flowers, of refined form, are of soft, uniform yellow. Emperor. Syn: Lorifolius Emperor. (C. 21 in. § J * 60c. doz.) A universally admired variety. It is one of the best and largest of the all-yellow daffodils, deservedly popular for pot culture, forcing, naturalising and for use in borders. The flowers, borne on long stems, are of im- mense size, firm in substance and of well-balanced form. The broad trumpet is rich golden yellow, and the petals—~ broad and rounded—are but slightly Hghter in tone. It is a strong, healthy grower and a free bloomer, doing its best in a strong, rich, well-drained loam. Excexsior. Syn: Spurius Excelsior. (B. 18 in. § 9 * $x doz.) A new extra large, early flowering, variety, similar ‘to Golden Spur, but richer in colour, being a deep self- yellow throughout; splendid for pot culture and for forcing, and is thought to be the forcing narcissus of the future. Frep Moore. (C. 14 in. § $2 ea.) A new seedling; a handsome flower of much substance, with an immense deep golden trumpet, well expanded at the mouth. The broad petals are well formed and of light yellow. A grand variety for pot culture and for borders. Award of Merit, R. H. S. 116 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS Georce Puiiep Haypen. (C. 18 in. $125. ea.) A new variety, having a very large, extra good flower of splendid texture and refined form. ‘Trumpet, canary yellow, with large open mouth, fluted and flanged; perianth light yellow, the petals being broad and rounded. A strong grower, with wide foliage; flowers in mid-season. Guory oF Lewen. (D. 14 in. § {| $2.50 doz.) Dubbed and truly “The King of Daffodils.” It is a giant seedling resembling, but superior to, Emperor, one of its parents. A strong grower, with massive flowers of great substance, boldly tilting upwards on strong stems, challeng- ing admiration and comparison with more modest semi- pendent flowering varieties. Glory: of Leiden, big and beautiful, seems conscious of its superiority in size, strength and durability. It comes unscathed through vicissitudes of unseasonable weather that dim the beauty of many more delicate sorts. It can always be depended upon as a “show flower,’”’ and to be the surprise and envy of daffodil-loving visitors. "The enormous trumpet is rich yellow, the petals vroad and rounded, of lighter shade with deeper yellow pencilings. For pot culture, flower beds and borders it is most effective. First-class certificate, R. H. S. GoLpeN Bett. (A. 14 in. § ff *$z ea.) An extra-early and remarkably free-flowering daffodil, with broad, light yellow twisted petals and a large and prominent trumpet, with an open frilled mouth. It is a tall grower, and most adaptable for pot culture, borders and naturalising. First- ciass certificate, R. H. 8. GoupeN Eacte. (B. § $1.50 doz.) A vigorous, early flowering, self-coloured variety of rich yellow. A splendid forcer and valuable for market. GoLpEN Piover. Syn: Golden Princeps. (B. 14 in. §]* 75c. doz.) An early flowering Irish daffodil having a tich yellow trumpet and perianth. It is of the same habit and nearly as early as Ard Righ, with a strong, vigorous constitution. Easily forced for cut flowers, and as it seeds LARGE TRUMPET TI7 freely is a desirable variety for gardens and naturalising. GOLDEN Prince. (B. 16 in. $4 doz.) An early flower- ing daffodil of a uniform golden yellow. The trumpet is lobed and serrated at the brim. Foliage broad and leek like. y GOLDEN Spur. Syn: Spurius Golden Spur. (A. 18 in. *§ {soc doz.) A native of the Netherlands. An extra early free-flowering variety that is a great favourite with the writer, who if he could have but one daffodil would choose this. It is not the biggest, nor yet the most beauti- ful, but when you plant a dozen bulbs of it you gre pretty sure to get eighteen to twenty-four flowers all large, perfect and as richly coloured as the most fastidious grower could desire. Golden Spur has a vigorous constitution, is easily forced in flats, flowers beautifully in pots, and is perfectly at home in the garden border; and when naturalised, seeds freely and increases correspondingly. The flowers of large size have a spreading megaphone-like trumpet with grace- fully rolled brim, perianth large and open. The colour, a self-yellow, is almost as deep as that of maximus. Hamter. (C. 18 in. §§ $1.50 ea.) A handsome new variety after the style of Emperor, with a bold, well-formed yellow trumpet, and a large broad, flat, light yellow peri- anth, Henry Irvine. Syn: Spurius Hy, Irving. (A. 18 in. § [ * 50c doz.) A native of the Netherlands and a fine type of spurius major, with handsome flowers of great substance. . Trumpet, rich golden yellow, wide and recurved at the mouth. Perianth, broad, spreading and of clear yellow. Ex- cellent for forcing, pot culture, growing in borders and nat- uralising in grass. It thrives best in sandy, gritty loam, and like all of the “spuriue” class, can be injured by kind- ness; that is, given a soil too freshly manured. Her Majesty. (B. 15 in. $1.50 doz.) An early flowering light, self yellow, expanding trumpet, beautifully serrated at the brim. 118 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS Hon. Mrs, Jocetyn. (D. 19 in. § [$x ea.) A new and but is a free producer of large flowers elegantly formed, and of a uniform rich golden yellow; perianth, large and winged, the petals being longer than the straight crown or trumpet, which is elegantly serrated at the brim. Well suited for both pot and border cultivation. IsoLtpE. (D. 20 in. § [$50 ea.) A new daffodil having a handsome large flower with a bold campanulate light yellow perianth, which sometimes measures five inches across; trumpet long and of soft yellow. This is a good late flowering variety for both pot and border culture. IvaNHOoE. (C. ro in. § J $1.50 ea.) A new variety of rich uniform lemon yellow. It is similar to John Nelson, but of better quality. Joun Bricut. (A. §$2 doz.) Of Dutch origin, be- longing to the spurius family. It is of dwarf spreading rich yellow colour. The petals incurve towards the trumpet, of distinct clear yellow. Excellent for pot culture and forcing. Joun Netson. (C. ro in. §§*$5 doz.) A very dis- tinct late flowering dwarf variety, of an almost uniform rich yellow color. The petals incurve towards the trumpet, forming a large rounded flower, which droops and nods al- most to the surface like Mrs. J. B. M. Camm, Colleen Bawn, and others of its class. For pot and border cultivation and for naturalising it is especially adapted. Kinc ALrrep. (B. 24 in. § f $15 ea.) A new | daffodil, perhaps the most beautiful of all yellow trumpets; free and early flowering. The flowers are not only of im- mense size but are of noble form and great substance. The trumpet is extra large and elegantly frilled at the mouth. The colour is a deep rich maximus yellow. The plant, which has bluish green foliage, is strong, vigorous and healthy, and grows two feet high. It is a superb variety for exhibition, pot and border culture. First-class certifi- LARGE TRUMPET TIg cate, R. H. S.; Award of Merit, R. B. S., and Premier Prize Midland Daffodil Society. Kinc Humpert. Syn: King Umberto. (B. + $2.50 hu.) A wild, early flowering Italian daffodil of robust growth, Desirable for naturalising in shaded places, and also amen- able to forcing. Trumpet yellow, perianth, paler in colour with darker yellow stripes through the centre of each petal. Lapy HELEN VINCENT. (C. 13 in. § ($6 ea.) A com- paratively new, large trumpet variety, with flowers of re- fined form and good substance; blossoming in mid-season. Colour, a uniform, soft and clear yellow; excellent for pot and border cultivation. Award of Merit, R. H. S, Lapy Wittes. (C. 14 in. §/*$3 doz.) A handsome, strong-growing, free-blooming daffodil, with bold yellow trumpet, having a deeply flanged open mouth. Perianth light yellow. Adaptable for both pot and garden culture. Lorna Doone. (B. rs in. $4 ea.) A distinct new variety of richest canary yellow. Trumpet long, tube-like and beautifully fluted. Erect habit. Foliage broad, resem- bling that of Emperor. Lorp Roserts. (C. 23 in. § [$20 ea.) A new giant- flowering variety, and one of the grandest of all yellow trumpet daffodils. Broad and massive petals and a noble trumpet, all of a rich uniform golden yellow. A strong, tall grower and blooms freely in mid-season. Awarded first-class certificate, R. H. S., Midland Daffodil Society, and Cornwall Daffodil Society, etc. Lorirotius. t ZuIpUy pu UOTeAjnd wor padessa aay (Djjez07 “Ay) snsstoreu snyjuesjod jo satjalIvA 3t0g VaAWYadd NI SQSSIOUVN CTIM TIXXX 21¥1d DOUBLES OF ALL GROUPS 205 are borne in twos and threes on short stocky flower stalks. It does better when naturalised in grass on dry warm hill- sides than in the garden; but it flowers perfectly in pots, if grown cool and slowly. A late bloomer. QuEEN ANNE’s DouBLE JoNou. (B. 12 in. ¢ $2 doz.) N. odorus minor plenus. This famous old variety bears two or three small sweet-scented double-rose-shaped flowers of rich golden yellow colour on twelve inch stems. It does well in shaded garden beds, naturalised in grass and is charming when grown in pots, five to six bulbs in a five inch pot. Giant Dousie Jonourt. (C. 20 in. ¢75c ea.) N. Campernelli plenus. This magnificent jonquil is said to be a doubled Campernelle, but its strength of growth and size of flower seems to indicate that it is a double form of N. odorus rugulosus maximus, Under favoured conditions the flower stems attain a height of two feet, each stem carrying erect from two to six large double fragrant bright yellow flowers, which deepen to orange at the junction of double cup and perianth. A bed of these left undisturbed until established—for at least two years—will produce blos- soms in such numbers and size as to be a revelation even to daffodil lovers. CHAPTER XVIII SomMeE AUTUMN FLOWERING SPECIES THESE rare, curious, and dainty little mem- bers of the genus Narcissus are found grow- ing wild, not often but occasionally, in Al- geria, Morocco, Gibraltar, Spain, Italy and sometimes in other localities closely bordering the Mediterranean. They are all round or rush-leaved types bearing their flowers in jon- quil-like clusters. The characteristics of spring-flowering daf- fodils and narcissus, i. e. love of moist cool- ness is exactly reversed in these autumn flow- ering kinds. These require almost tropical heat, and dry seasons followed by wet ones. They are not recommended for ordi- nary garden cultivation in the North, though they may be grown in frames covered with glass during the late autumn and winter months and may also be grown and flowered in pots. N. SEROTINUS. (10 in. 50c. doz.) The fragrant little flowers of this variety, borne in twos or threes on slender 206 AUTUMN FLOWERING SPECIES 207 stems, have spreading white petals turning slightly back- wards; the lemon-yellow cup is very small. The leaves are produced late in the fall, after the plant has ceased blooming, therefore it must be protected with glass until growth has been completed if flowers another season are desired. N. SEROTINUS, VAR. ELEGANS. This variety somewhat re- sembles the preceding differing in the following partic- ulars: the pure white petals are more slender and very pointed; the small yellow cup is saucer-shaped. The leaves and flowers are produced at the same time. N. virwiFLorus. ($2 ea.) The green narcissus, a rare little species blooming in November. Its small fragrant star-like flowers with insignificant cups—are borne in two to four flower clusters on tall stems. The coloring of the flower is a really pretty shade of light green. CHAPTER XIx HYyBRIDISING AND RAIsING FRoM SEED In entering into this fascinating field of hybridising and raising seedlings, avoid above all things any haphazard way, making what Mr. Darwin called “fool’s experiments.” Have some definite object in view. The pro- duction of a King Alfred, for instance, in an early flowering form which might possibly be accomplished by crossing that variety on spu- rius major or Golden Spur, or vice versa, would be a real achievement. Always work for constitution, vigour of growth and sturdy stems, as well as for size, form, substance and freedom of bloom; and for rich and deep, or else sharply contrasting colouring — no washed-out blends are needed. The petals are usually the weakest part of the flower and can stand improving. In many flowers they lack substance and breadth. In some varieties I find they wither and curl back in a sunny ex- posure, while the trumpet or crown is still holding well. 208 RAISING FROM SEED 209 There are hundreds of desirable possibili- ties to work for and hundreds of possible com- binations to work with, this being one of the phases of daffodil culture that makes it so fascinating. The enthusiast’s culmination of delight is in watching the development of the first flowers of his own seedlings, for he is always sure that something will develop to astonish the world—possibly a silver-winged Weardale with scarlet trumpet or a golden- winged Autocrat with snow-white crown. In every fertile flower of Narcissus, the long, slender style with its swollen stigma, after the lobes develop, exudes a sticky sub- stance which indicates that the stigma is in a receptive condition. Pollen is the yellow, dust-like grains adhering to the anthers which dangle at the ends of the six stamens sur- rounding the stigma. When ripe pollen comes into contact with the stigma, pol- lination results, which if effective, is called fertilisation. When the pollen of a flower falls upon its own stigma it is self pollination or self fertilisation. Ifthe pollen is that from another flower of the same type on a differ- ent plant, it is cross pollination. A true hy- 210 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS brid is the result of crossing quite different flowers. The flowers to be artificially pollenized should have their anthers removed before the pollen is ready to shed, to prevent self pol- lination. Then tie a piece of netting over the flower to prevent insects from carrying for- eign pollen to the stigma. When the latter is ripe for the operation, apply the pollen from the chosen flower by means of a camel’s hair brush slightly moistened, or a bit of ivory or bone. Re-cover the flower operated upon with netting. It is advisable to repeat this operation two or three times on successive days to make sure that the purpose has been accomplished. If fertilisation is successful, the ovary will soon develop into a seed pod and as it nears maturity, it should be carefully watched and gathered before it bursts and scatters its seeds. When the intended parents flower at differ- ent times, artificial crossing is accomplished by retarding the early flowering sort and has- tening the flowering of the late sort by forc- ing under glass if necessary. But if, normally, the difference in time is not over two weeks, RAISING FROM SEED 211 this may be accomplished in outdoor cultiva- tion by selecting an early site for the late- flowering kind and a late site for the early one, as discussed in Chapter II. By ad- justing the regular forcing methods given in Chapter III., types widely differing in time of bloom may be brought to flower simulta- neously. In this way, the poetaz race (the result of crossing the late flowering N. poeti- cus, var. ornatus with an_early-flowering Tazetta variety) was made possible. Also, in the same way, the Sprengeri hybrids were pro- duced by crossing a large yellow trumpet va- riety with the Paper White. The Leedsii varieties are crosses of the white trumpets and poeticus. But it is not alone the crossing of species and widely differing forms that gives us the most valuable results. Most of the best large new daffodils of the present time have been produced by crossing individuals of the same group. King Alfred, the acknowledged peer of the all-yellow trumpets—certificated in 1899 and still worth $15.00 per bulb—is a cross between Maximus and Emperor, large yellow trumpet daffodils. Other instances 212 DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS could be cited to show that crossing in the same group often produces progeny superior to either parent. SOWING DAFFODIL SEEDS AND RAISING THE SEEDLINGS The seeds of narcissus and daffodils should be sown as soon as ripe, about August, in wooden boxes with holes in the bottom, or earthen pots or pans. Cover the holes with broken pottery, then place over the hole a layer of more finely broken pots or cinders and another layer of cocoanut fibre refuse, or old fibrous roots from sods to prevent the soil from filling up the rubble and stopping the drainage. Over this place a two or three-inch layer of good loamy soil free from manure, mixed with about ten per cent. of sand. On this sow the seeds, scattering them thinly over the surface, and cover with half an inch of loamy soil mixed with one-half sand. The object of so much sand is to prevent the soil from caking and forming a surface which it would be difficult for young growth to pene- trate. The boxes, pots or pans containing RAISING FROM SEED 213 the seeds should be placed in a cold-frame on a layer of ashes two or three inches deep, to keep worms out and to further facilitate drainage. The seedlings may appear in a month or two—little narrow, rush-like leaves—but they sometimes come up at intervals through- out the winter and sometimes do not germin- ate until spring. The seedlings are to remain undisturbed in their boxes or pans in the frame for about two years or until the little bulbs have attained the size of large peas, when they are to be transplanted to a cool, semi-shaded situation in the garden in a raised bed of finely prepared sandy loam. Here they should remain until the flowering size is reached. The time required for flowering from the seed differs with the sections. The miniature daffodils, namely, Bulbocodium, triandrus, cyclamineus, juncifolius, etc., will generally flower the third year after sowing; but the larger-growing kinds can hardly be expected to flower under four or five years from the seed and even then, they will continue to im- prove for a year or two and give their first 214 DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS characteristic flower in from seven to ten years. Crosses in which Tazetta varieties take place are usually longer in producing their first flowers than any other combinations. APPENDIX A Key To THE DAFFODILS BY WILHELM MILLER AND LEONARD BARRON A Key to the Daffodils INCLUDING ALL THE HYBRID GROUPS OR “SECTIONS” AND IMPORTANT SPECIES. THE following key is, we believe, the first which clearly distinguishes all the important sections and species of the daffodil or narcis- sus. If the beginner will spend five minutes upon it he will get a better grasp of the genus Narcissus than he can get in any other way, because the key shows in the briefest possible form how each species and hybrid group sec- tion differs from any other, and also what it has in common with any other. Moreover, it not only gives one a vivid mental picture of the whole genus, but it also enables one to determine with certainty, in the shortest pos- sible time, to what section an unknown flower belongs. Then by referring to the descrip- tion list of varieties in the first part of the book the exact name of the flower can be de- termined. In order to get a grasp of the genus Nar- cissus, notice first the distinctness between A, AA, and AAA. Here we have the daffodils 217 218 DAFFODILS——-NARCISSUS divided into the (A), large-- ; (AA), me- dium -- ; and (AAA), small-crowned groups, which are better distinguished commonly as trumpets, cups and saucers. Under A, notice that we have B, BB, and BBB, which show that the petals spread horizontally in the first species * point backwards in species Nos. 5 and 6 and forward in No. 7. In like manner, the most important dis- tinctions among the medium-crowned daffo- dils are indicated by B and BB under AA; namely, that the leaves are broad and flat in species 8 to 15 inclusive, while they are narrow and rush-like in species 16 and 17. Again, among the small-crowned daffodils, the most important distinctions are shown by B, BB, and BBB, which clearly indicate the number of flowers on a stem possessed by species Nos. 18 to 28. Suppose now that we wish to place an un- known flower in its proper section. We choose first between A, AA, and AAA. If our specimen has a large-crowned flower, it * (Nore: For the present purposes the typical hybrid groups, or sections, are regarded as species, and the peri- anth segments are referred to simply as “petals’’). KEY TO THE DAFFODILS 219 clearly belongs under A, and we must next choose between B, BB, and BBB. The petals spread horizontally, which places it under B. If our specimen has only one flower on a stem, it belongs then under C, and we must choose between D and DD. If it has a spread trumpet, it belongs under D, and if the trumpet is straight, and flared only at the rim, it clearly belongs under species No. 1, namely Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus, which is the most important group of all as it contains most of the common trumpet daffodils. The authorities disagree about N. Back- housei. Even Peter Barr puts it in the large- crowned section in his catalogue and in the medium-crowned section in his book. All agree that it is a hybrid between a large- crowned and a medium -- or small-crowned type (some say incomparablis, some poeticus, and some Tazetta), yet we have searched the books in vain for any indication that the flower of Backhousei has a crown appreciably shorter in relation to the petals than the typi- cal trumpet varieties. On the contrary, Peter Barr distinctly states that the cup is nearly as long as the petals. Hence, N: Backhousei 220 DAFFODILS-—-NARCISSUS may be sought below in either the large -- or medium-crowned sections. The new section, N. Englehearti, has not yet been described with sufficient precision to enable us to insert it in the key. It is closely allied to N. Burbidgei, and indeed some of the varieties of the new section were formerly included in Burbidgei. The crown is short, spreading and much fluted. A. The large-crowned, or trumpet daffodils; crown almost as long as the petals (here might be sought No. 9) or longer; perianth tube much shorter than the crown and wide. B. Petals spreading horizontally. C. Number of flowers on a stem only one. D. Trumpet straight or flared only at the rim 1. N. Pseudo-Narcissus. DD. Trumpet flaring widely like a hoop skirt 2. N. Bulbocodium. CC. Number of flowers on a stem two or three 3. N. tridymus. BB. Petals pointing backward C. Flowers large: height twelve inches: hardy 4. N. Johnstoni. CC. Flowers small: height six inches: for pot culture of rockeries ..............008 5. N. cyclamineus. BBB. Petals pointing forward............ 6. N. Humei. AA. The medium-crowned, or cup daffodils: crown more than one-third and up to three-fourths as long as the petals: perianth tube about as long as the crown. KEY TO THE DAFFODILS 221 B. Leaves broad and flat, C. Flowers large: height a foot or more, hardy. D. Blossoms not drooping. E. Petals generally yellow, sometimes white. F. Cup a third or more the length of the petals. 7. N. incomparabilis. FF. Cup a fourth to a third of the length of the Petals gins2scaeiuans vee nae 8. N. Barrii. FFF. Cup nearly as long as the petals. 9. N. Backhouse. EE. Petals always white. Fe Cup. white: sinceiss sos 00% aaron to. N. Leedsii. FF. Cup orange-scarlet: crown half as long as the petals ............... ur. N. Bernardi. FFF. Cup yellow, sometimes tinged orange: crown more than half as long as the petals. 12. N. Nelsoni. DD. Blossoms drooping......... 13. N. montanus. CC. Flowers small: height four to nine inches: for pots or rockeries.......... iste ay 14. N. Macleaii. BB. Leaves narrow, rush-like. C. Petals reflexed ...........0eeeeee 15. N. triandrus. CC. Petals spreading horizontally. D. Flowers large: height twelve to twenty-two inches: petals not imbricated: hardy. 16. N. odorus. DD. Flowers small: height three to four inches: petals imbricated: for pots or rockeries. 17. N. juncifolius. AAA. The small-crowned or saucer daffodils: crown Jess than one-third as long as the petals: perianth tube much longer than the crown and narrow. B. Number of flowers about a dozen: only for indoor culture North. C. For pot culture................0. 18. N. Tazetta. 222 DAF FODILS—-NARCISSUS CC. For culture in pure water....... 19. N. Tazetta var. orientalis. BB. Number of flowers usually three to eight. 20. N. poetaz. BBB. Number of flowers one (except “Twin-Flow- ered,” 2 variety of poeticus) C. Leaves broad and fiat. ; D. Saucer nearly flat.........005..28. N. poeticus. DD. Saucer a trifle deeper....... 22. N. Burbidgei. CC. Leaves narrow, rush-like. D. Blooming in autumn. E. Flowers all green.......... 23. N. viridiflorus. EE. Flowers white with yellow crown. F. Flowers before leaves...... 24. N. serotinus. FF. Flowers with leaves........ 25. N. elegans. DD. Blooming in May. E. Yellow at first, becoming sulphur. 26. N. gracilis, EE. Colour not changing. F. Petals and cup yellow..... 27. N. Jonquilla. FF. Petals pale yellow: cup yellow or orange.. 28. N. intermedius. INDEX TO SPECIES The following index to the species or sec- tions will enable anyone to locate its place in the preceding Key. The numbers immedi- ately following the names refer to the order in which the names are given in the key; the page references (in parenthesis) indicate where the full descriptions of the varieties of the section, and their appraisement as garden KEY TO THE DAFFODILS 224 plants, by Mr. Kirby, will be found in the preceding chapters. Backhousei, 9 (p. 142) Barrii, 8 (p. 166) Bernardi, 11 (p. 169) biflorus, 2x (p. 173) Bulbocodium, 2 (p. 143) Burbidgei, 22 (p. 174) cyclamineus, 5 (p. 145) elegans, 25 (p. 207) Engleheartii, . . .(p. 178) gracilis, 26 (p. 182) Humei, 6 (p. 141) incomparabilis, 7 (p. 148) intermedius, 28 (p. 190) Johnstoni, 4 (p. 146) Jonquilla, 27 (p. 180) juncifolius, 17 (p. 181) Leedsii, 10 (p. 158) Macleaii, 14 (p. 165) montanus, 13 (p. 164) Nelsonii, 12 (p. 156) odorus, 16 (p. 181) poetaz, 20 (p. 193) poeticus, 2 (p. 170) Pseudo-Narcissus, 1 (p. 111) serotinus, 24 (p. 206) Tazetta, 18 (p. 185) Tazetta, var. orientalis, 19 (p. 192) tridymus, 3 (p. 194) triandrus, 15 (p. 147) viridiflorus, 23 (p. 207) INDEX Abscissus, x12. Achilles, rr2. Ada Brooke, 133. Admiral Makaroff, rx2. Togo, 112. Adonia, 185. Advice to beginners, ro. After flowering, 56. Agnes Barr, 175. Harvey, 159. Ajax varieties, 198. Albatross, 167. Albicans, 126. Alice Knights, 126, Alida, 1122. All white trumpets, 125, 201 All yellow trumpets, 1x1. Almira, 17%. Alsace, 193. Alvarez, 112. Amab*"’s, 159. Amazon, 159. Amsterdam, 149. Angel’s tears, andrus. Angustifolius, 171. Apricot, 126. Phoenix, 202. Apricot-crowned _Leedsiis, see Salmonetta and Peach. A. Rawson, 194. Ard Righ, 112. .Argent, 202. Ariadne, 159. Artemis, 149. Astradente, 178. 100, III, see Tri- Atalanta, 127. Aurantius, 149, 157. Plenus, 202. Autocrat, 149. Autumn flowering, 108, 206. Avalanche, 127. Baby Jonquil, folius. Backhousei, ror, 142, 143. Barbara Holmes, see Lady Godiva. Baroness Heath, 175. Barrii, 104, 166. Basal rot, 20, 94. Bathurst, 185. Bazelman major, 186. Beacon, 175. Beatrice, 159. Haseltine, 175. Beauty, 149. Beginners, advice to, 10. Bernardi, 104, 169. Bernice, 175. Bertie, 150. Bianca, 159. Bicolor, 133. Ajax, ror. of Haworth, 133. Bicolour maximus, Grandee. trumpets, 133. Biflorus, 105, 173, 174+ hybridus, 174. Big Ben, 113. Blackwell, 150. Blast, cause of, 64. Blindness, cause of, 73. Blood Orange, 176. see junci- see 225, 226 Breviflos, 134. Bridal Veil, 159. Bridesmaid, 159. Bulb, diseased, 45. growth of a, 17. how to order, 49. increase of, 30, 44. selection, 43. size of, 18, 24. what is good, 45. citrinum or citrinus, 144. Bulbocodium see p. 144, conspicuum or conspicua, 144. miniature, 144. monophyllum or mono- phylla, 144. praecox, 144. Bullfinch, 167. Bunching flowers, 79. Burbidgei, 105, 174, 175. Butter and Eggs, see Au- rantius and Aurantius plenus. Buttercup, see Obvallaris pallidus, Cabeceiras, 134. Calpurnia, 134. Cambricus, 113. Cameoens, 134. Campernelle group, 180, 204. Jonquil, 181. major, see odorus rugu- losus. plenus, see Giant Double Jonquil. Canary Queén, 150. Capax plenus, see Queen Anne’s Double. Captain Nelson, 113. Cardinal, 150. Cassandra, 171. 105) DAFFODILS—NARCISSUS Cecilia De Graaff, 127. Cecily Hill, 167. Cernuus, 127. plenus, see Double White Trumpet. pulcher, 127. Cervantes, 113. Charles Dickens, 185. Chaucer, 171. C. H. Curtis, 113. Cheesecloth protection, 39 Cherry Ripe, 176. Chinese sacred, 65, 186, 204. Christmas, forcing for, 63, 70. Circe, see Duchess of Bra- bant. C. J. Backhouse, 150. Classification, 98. Cleopatra, 113. Close club, ro. Cloth of Gold, 194. Club, 10. Clusii, see Bulbocodium Monophyllum. Cocoanut fibre refuse 36, 67 Codlins and Cream, see Silver Phoenix. Colleen Bawn, 127. Colonizing, 82. Colour, preserving, 38. Commander, 150. Commercial cut flowers, 70. Concord, 179. Conference, 9. Conspicuus, 167. minor, see Orphee. Constance Pierpont, 159. Constantinople, 187, 204. Constellation, 150. Cora Plemp, 127. Coronatus, 114. Countess of Annesley, 124. Desmond, 114. - « INDEX Cresset, 179, Crom-a-Boo, 114. Crosses, 7. Crown Frilled, see Crom-a- Boo. Prince, 167. Princess, 176. Cupid, 167. Cutting, flowers for, 43, 70. C. W. Cowan, 127. Cyclamen-flowered group, 102, 145. Cyclamineus, 102, 145. var. major, 146. Cygnet, 134. Cynosure, 150. Daffodil conference, 9. typical, 13. Dainty Maid, 134. Dandy Dick, 151. Daniel Dewar, 114. Dante, 171. Dean Herbert, 134. Defiance, 114. Delos, 160. Depths to plant, 24. Diana, 160. Disease, 93. Distances apart, 24. Dividing, 29, 31. Doctor Gorman, I51. Don Quixote, see Princeps Maximus. Dormant period, 18. Dorothy E. Wemyss, 167. Double Jonquil, 204. Poet’s Narcissus, 203. Roman, see Constanti- nople. Scotch, 201. Van Sion, 19, 198. White Trumpet, 2or. Double-flowered group, 108, 196. 227, Dr. Fell, 167. Hogg, 128. Dubius, see Paper White. Duchess of Brabant, 160. Connaught, 127. Normandy, 128. Westminster, 160. Duke of Bedford, 134. Dutch minor, see Minor. Moschatus, see Albicans. nanus, see Lobularis. Dwarf Double Sweet Scented, 200. Early Bird, 115. flowering, 65. Edmond’s White, see Mag- gie May. Eggs and _ Bacon, Orange Phoenix. Egret, 179. Elaine, 160. Eliza Turck, 115. Ellen Barr, 176. Elvira, 193. Emperor, 115. - Empress, 134. Englehearti, 105, 178. English Lent Lily, Pseudo-Narcissus. Enid, 160. Eoster, 160. Epic, 172. E. T. Cook, 135. Etoil d’or, see Intermedius biflorons. Excelsior, 115. Exquisite, 128. Eystettensis, see Anne’s Double. Fairy Queen, 160. Falstaff, 176. Farm, a flower, 77. Fearless, 151. Fertilizers, 24, 67, 73, 74 see see Queen 228 Field Culture, 76. Figaro, 151. Fire Glow, 169. Firebrand, 176. Flats, 70. Flora Wilson, 168. Forcing, 47, 55, 70 for Christmas, 63, 70. varieties for, 59, 60, 76. Frailty, 176. Frank Miles, 151. Fred Moore, 115. F. W. Burbidge, 128. Gaiety, 151. Ganymedes, see Triandrus. Garden analysis, 99. crosses, 7. cultivation, 17. Gardenia-flowered __ narcis- sus, see Double Poet’s Narcissus. Garland flower, see Pseudo- Narcissus. Gem, 161. General Murray, 168. George Nicholson, 151. Philip Haydon, 116. Gerard’s Silver and Gold Double, 200. Giant Double Jonquil, 205. jonquil, see odorus. Princeps, see Princeps ‘Maximus. trumpet group, 100, 111, 198. Gipsy Lad, 151. Glitter, 168. Gloria Mundi, 151. Gloriosa superba, see Glo- riosus. Gloriosus, 187. Glory, 172. of Leiden, 116. Gold Eye, 179. DAF FODILS—NARCISSUS Golden Bell, 116. Eagle, 116. Gem, 168. Giant, see Monar¢h, Mary, 168. Phoenix, or Erini, 202. see Aurantius. Plover, 116. Prince, 117. Princeps, Plover. Rose, 202. Spur, 117. Goliath, 152. Good luck flower, Chinese Sacred. Grace Darling, 128. Gracilis, 106, 182. tenuior, 182. Grand Duchess, 161. Emperor of China, see Chinese Sacred. Monarque, 187. Primo, 187, Primo Citronierre, 185. Soleil D’or, 185. Grandee, 135. Grandiflorus, 172. Grandis, see Grandee. Grandis-praecox, see Prae- cox. Groot Voorst, 187. Grouping, 37, 84. Gwendolen, 135. Gwyther, 152. Hamlet, 117. Hardy cluster - flowered group, 107, 192. Harold Hodge, 176. Hatfield Beauty, 128. Haunts, 6. H. E. Buxton, 169. Helene, see N. gracilis. Henri Vilmorin, 128. see Golden see INDEX Henry Irving, 117. Her Majesty, 117, 187. Heroine, 161. Hogarth, 152, Homer, 172. Hon. Mrs. Barton, 161. Mrs. Joscelyn, 118. Hoop-petticoat group, 102, 143. Horsefieldi, 135. House culture, 63. How to plant, 27. Hulda, 135. Humeli, ror, 141. albidus, 142. concolor, 142. monstrosus, 142. Hume’s Giant, see Humei monstrosus, Hyacinth, 176. Hybridizers, early, 8. Hybridising, 208. Hybrids, 6. Incomparabilis, 103, 148. albus aurantius plenus, _see Orange Phoenix. pallidus - plenus, see Golden Phoenix or Erini. simplex, see Aurantius, Incognito, 179. Insect, 93. Intermediate cluster-flow- ered group, 189. Intermedius, 107, 190. biflorons, 190. Major, 190. minor, see Intermedius, Sunset, 190. Jone, 135. Irene, 193. Irish King, see Ard Righ. Isolde, 118, 136. Ivanhoe, 118. 229 James Bateman, 152. Janet Image, 16. Jaune 4 Merveille, 193. Supreme, 185. J. B. M. Camn, 136. Jenny Woodhouse, 128. John Bain, 176. Bright, 118, Davidson, 136. Nelson, 128. Tradescant’s Daffodil, see Rose-flowered Double. Johnstoni, 102, 146. “Queen of Spain,” 146. Jonquil group, 105, 180, 204. Jonquilla, 106, 180. plenus, see Double Jon- quil. Jos flower, Sacred. J. T. Bennett Poe, 147. Juncifolius, 106, 181. Katherine Spurrell, 161. Key to the Daffodils, 217. King Alfred, 118. Edward VII., see Almira. Humbert, 119. of Daffodils, see Glory of Leiden. of the Netherlands, 152. Umberto, see King Hum- bert. Klondyke, 193. Lady Arnott, 152. Audrey, 128, Godiva, 168. Gregory, 162. Grosvenor, 129. Helen Vincent, 119. Isabel, 176. Margaret Boscawen, 152. McCalmont, 161. of the Snows, 128. Somerset, 129. see Chinese 230 Lady Sybil, 129. Willes, 119. Large White Spanish Daffo- dil, see Albicans. Leedsii, 103, 158, 161. Lena, 136. Lesser trumpet group, for, 141. Lifting, 29, 31. L’'Innocence, 129. Little Dirk, 177. Dorritt, 177. Lismore, 129. Lobster, 152. Lobularis, 136. Neerlandicus, see Nanus. plenissimus, see Rose- flowered Double. Lord Canning, 185. Palmerston, 162. Roberts, 119. Lorifolius, 119. Emperor, see Emperor. Lorna Doone, 119. Louise, 152, 193. Loveliness, 129. Lucia, 162, 194. Ideal, 193. Improved Campernelle, see Odorus rugulosus. Lucifer, 152. Lulworth, 153. Beauty, see Lulworth. Lusitanica, see Cameoens. Lydia, 153. Mable Cowan, 153. Macleaii, 104, 165. Madame De Graaff, 129. Plemp, 136. Madge Matthew, 162. Maestro, 187. Maggie May, 162. Magog, 153. Major, 119. Spurius, 120. DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS Manure, danger of, 22. Many - flowered Camper- nelle, see Odorus cala- tina, Marchioness of Lorne, 129. Market flowers, 75. Mars, 153. Marvel, 172. Mary Anderson, 153 . M. De Graaff, see Mary Magdaline De Graaf. Magdaline De Graaf, 162. Matson Vincent, 129. Maurice Vilmorin, 168. Maw’s bicolor, 136. Maximus, 120. of the Pyrenees, see Maximus superbus lon- givirens. superbus longivirens, 120. Mediterranean types, Medium-crowned group, 103, Mercedes, 177. Michael Foster, 137. Mikado, 121. Miniature flowers, 62, 90. Minimus, 121. Minnie Hume, 162. Warren, see Milner. Minor, 121. Miriam Barton, 168. Miss Weisse, 163. White, 195. M. J. Berkeley, 121. Modern, 3. Monarch, 122. Montanus, 104, 164. Mont Cenis, 187. Morning Star, 122. Moschatus, 130. of Haworth, 130. Moss culture, 66. 4. hybrid 148, 201, WwW. Pz. INDEX Mountain Maid, 163. Mr. J. Bell Camm, see J. B. M. Camm. Mrs. Alfred Pearson, 195. Bettridge, 130. Buchanan, 137. Burbidge, 130. C. Bowley, 168. C. J. Backhouse, 157. C. W. Earle, 137. Geo. H. Barr, 130, H. J. Elwes, 122. J. Bell Camm, 130. Knights, 157. Krelage, 177. Langtry, 163. Morland Crosfield, 137. R. C. Notcutt, 168. Thompson, 131. Vincent, 131. Walter T. Ware, 137. Mulch for winter, 32. Mulching materials, 34. Muscaret orientalis, 191. Muticus, see Abscissus. Nanus, 122. albus, see W. P. Mil- ner. Major, see Nanus. minimus, see Minimus. minor, see Minor. Narcissus fly, 95. typical, 13. Native haunts, 6. Natural hybrids, 6. Naturalising, 7, 81. Nelsoni, 103, 156. major, 157. minor, 157. Nelson’s Orange, see Au- rantius. Newton, see Newton. Niobe, 163. Sir Isaac 231 Noblissimus Plenus, 204. Nomenclature, 98. North Star, see Early Bird. Notch planting, 86. Obvallaris, 122, pallidus, 122. Occident, 168. Odorus, 106, 181. calathina, 182. heminalis, 181. interjectus, 181. minor plenus, see Queen Anne’s Double Jonquil. rugulosus, 18. ; rugulosus maximus, 182, | Offsets, 30. Old plantings istics, 85. Old-Time and Modern, 3. Oonah, 122. Ophelia, 123. Ophir, 123. Orange Phoenix, 202. Oriana, 138. Oriental types, 4. Orientalis, 107, 191. of Haworth, see Orient- alis, Oriflamme, 177. Ornatus, 172. Orphee, 169. Osiris, 138. Othello 123. Ovid, 177. Pallidus praecox, 131. Palmerston, see Lord Palm- erston. Pans, 53. Paper White, 188. Grandiflora, 189. character multiflora, see Paper White Grandiflora. Papyraceus, see Paper White. 232 Parkinson’s Rose-flowered Daffodil, see Rose- flowered Double. Peach, 163. Perfectus, 153. Peter Barr, 131. Pharaoh, 138. Pheasant’s Eye narcissus, see Recurvis. Phil May, 123. Phyllis, 163. Planting, 22, 24. depth, 24. sites, 19, 83. time for, 26. Plenipo, 203. Plunging, 53. Poetarum, 172. Poetaz, 107, 192. Poeticus, 104, 170, 203. albus-plenus odoratus, see Double Poet’s Narcissus. Poet’s narcissus group, 104, 170, 203. Polestar, 179. Polyanthus, 183, 203. Portia, 138. Pots, 51, 52. Potting in August, 49. soil, 48. Praecox, 172. grandiflorus, see Praecox. P. R. Barr, 123. Prices, high, 10. Primrose Phoenix, 203. Primulinus, see Dean Her- bert. Prince Colobri, 138. George, 123. Metternich, 188. of Teck, 153. Princeps, 138. Maximus, 138. Princess Ida, 132. DAF FODILS——-NARCISSUS William Wilks, 143. Mary, 154. Mary of Cambridge, see Princess Mary. Maude, 163. of Wales, 163. Prinz von Metternich, see Prince Metternich. Profusion, 194. Prometheus, 177. Proserpine, 138. Protection for winter, 32. in summer, 39. Pseudo lobularis pumilus plenu, see Dwarf Double Sweet Scented. Pseudo-Narcissus, 138. albus aureus plenus, see Gerard’s Silver and Gold Double. albus plenus sulnhurius, see Silver or Sulphur Phoenix. Pseudo-rugilobus, see Rugi- lobus. Pseudo-Scoticus plenus, see Double Scotch. Pulchellus, 157. Pyramus, 139. Pyrenean poeticus, 172. Queen Anne’s Double, 200. Double Jonquil, 205. Bess, 154. Catherina, 154. Christiana, 139. Isabella, 139. of Holland, 123. of Holland, see Minnie Hume. Queen of Spain, see John- stoni Queen of Spain. of the chalice cups, see Conspicuus. of the Netherlands, 188. INDEX Queen of Yellows, 186. Sophia, 154. Radiflorus, see Angusti- folius. Ranger Johnson, 123. Ray Smith, 123. Recurvis, 173. Red Star, 154. Regina Marguerita, 123. Resolute, 157. Rev. D. R. Williamson, 124, Rhea, 139 Rip Van Winkle, 200. Rock garden, varieties for, 91. Rockeries, 4. Rosalind, 177, Rose-flowered Double, 200. Rowena, 132. Royal Star, 179. Rugilobus, 124. lorifolius, see Rugilobus. Sabrina, 124. S. A. De Graaff, 195. Salmonetta, 164. Salt hay, 36. Sand cushions, 29. Santa Maria, 124. Scarlet Eye, 177. Scarletta, 177. Sceptre, 178. Schizanthus Orientalis, see Orientalis. Scilly White, 189. Scotch garland flower, see Scoticus. Scoticus, 139. Sea Gull, 169. Secret of succsss, 20. Seed, sowing, 212. raising from, 212. Seedlings, raising, 208. Selecting, 43. Semi-partitus, 154. plenus, 203. 233 Sensation, 169. Sentinel, 139. Sequin, 179. Serotinus, 206. var. elegans, 207. Shade, value of, 38. Shakespeare, 124. Shipping flowers, 79. Shirley Hibberd, 124. Siddington, 169. Signs, explanation of, 109, Silver jonquil, see gracilis var. tenuior. Phoenix, 203. Spur, 139. Trumpet, see Albicans. White Swan’s. Neck daffo- dil, see Cernuus pulcher. 110. Single Jonquil, see Jon- quilla. Van Sion of the Dutch, see Spurius. Sir Isaac Newton, 186. Stafford Northcote, Watkin, 154. Sites for planting, 19, 83. Snowflake, 132. see Paper White Grandi- flora. Soil, 5, 18, 19, 21, 48, 77, 83, 84. Spread Eagle, 124. Sprightly, 124. Spurius, 124. Excelsior, see Excelsior. Golden Spur, see’ Golden Spur. Henry Irving, see Henry Irving. Starlight, 3155. Staten Generaal, see States General. States General, 188. Steadfast, 155. 132. 234 Stella, 155. superba, 155, St. John’s Beauty, 178. St. Patrick, 195. Strong Bow, 157. Structure, 14. Success, 20. Sulphur hoop petticoat, see Bulbocodium Citrinum. King, 132. Phoenix, 203. -’~ Trumpet, see Albicans. Sunset, 194. Superbus, 164. Swan’s Neck Daffodil, see Tortuosus and William Goldring. Sweetheart, 155. Sylvia, 164. Tazetta, 106, 133. Telamonius, see Spurius. plenus, see Double Van Sion. Temperature for potted bulbs, 48, 57, 64, 72. Tenby Daffodil, see Jenny Woodhouse and Ob- vallaris. Tender cluster - flowered group, 106, 183, 203. Tenuifolius minor, see In- termedius. The Bride, 173. Leek, 142. Pet, 178. Rival, 155. Sisterhood, 164. Twins, 195. Thisbe, 179. Thomas Moore, 125. Three months of bloom, 40. Time to plant, 26. Titian, 156. Torch, 156. Tortuosus, 132. DAFFODILS—-NARCISSUS Tottenham Yellow, 125. Totus albus, see Paper- white. Tradescanthus, see Rose- flowered Double. Tradescant’s Centifolius, see Rose-flowered Double. Trewianus Major, see Bazelman major. Triandrus, 103, 147. albus, 147. calathinus, 147. concolor, 147. pulchellus, 147. Tridymus, 107, 194. Triumph, 156, 194. True Jonquil, see Jonquilla. Trumpet Maximus, 120. ‘Minor, see Minor. Turf, planting in, 28, 86. Tuscan Bi-colour, 140. Bonnet, 125. Twin Flower, 173. Two colored trumpets, 133. Una, 164. Underdrainage, 23. Undine, 164. Vanessa, 178. Van Sion, 19, 198. Van Waveren’s Giant, 125. Varieties for cut flowers, 80. forcing, 59, 60, 76. naturalising, 84, 87. Verbanensis, 173. Vesuvius, 156. Victoria, 140. Viridiflorus, 207. Vivid, 178. Water culture, 63. Weardale Perfection, 140. Welsh Lent lily, see Cam- bricus. Wet feet, 20. Where to grow, 4. INDEX 235 White Ajax, ror. Willie Barr, 125. hoop petticoat, see Bulbo- Wilmer’s Double Golden codium monophyllum, Daffodil, see Double Lady, 164. Van Sion. obvallaris, see Jenny Winter flowering, 47. Woodhouse. varieties for, 58. Orientalis, see Muscaret Wolley Dod, 143. orientalis. W. P. Milner, 133. Pearl, 189. Yellow Ajax, 101. Perfection, 189. Hoop Petticoat, see Bulbo- Queen,164. codium conspicuum. Wings, 156. King, see Ard Righ. Wild, 6. Orientalis, see Orientalis. Will Scarlett, 156. poeticus, see Vanessa. William Backhouse, 158. Primo, see Grand Primo Goldring, 133. Citroniere.” ~ Princess Louise, 177. Tue Country Lire Press GaRDEN City, N. 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