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LIBRARY

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| AGRICULTURE AND Home Economics

ornell University Libra

The practical bee guide.A manual of mode

Cornell University

Library

The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

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SPECIMEN EXTRACTS FROM REVIEWS, Etc.

——

THE PRESS.

“A manual which will most assuredly be of great value.’—-Pall Mall
Gazette.

““Practical to the core, really fascinating reading, in each part the
evidence of a master hand is apparent.’’—Gardener.

“Newspapers of all shades are loud in its praise, which is well descrved,
as the work has been well done. It bids fair to become the standard work
on bees in Ireland.’’—Aberdeen Journal,

““This is one of the many really good things that come to us from the
Emerald Isle, and is, we believe, the best practical guide to beekeeping that
has been published either in England or Ireland.’’-—Hereford Times.

“Essentially practical, lucid in style, often eloquent in diction, as a
popular work on a fascinating branch of natural history, it will hold the
attention of any intelligent reader.”—Wellington Evening Post, New Zealand.

“The structure of the bees, both external and internal, is described
accurately, and in sufficient detail, while the story of their lives and labours
is told vividly and poetically. We heartily congratulate the author.”—Zrish
Naturalist.

“The most practical and comprehensive book on bees that has been
offered of late years. There is nothing in this ‘Manual’ that would fail to
instruct, interest, and charm all lovers of bees, and incidentally all lovers
of nature.’’--Weekly Freeman.

“Probably the best practical guide to the subject that has been published.
Nothing of the kind which has been published of late approaches the book
in thoroughness. It is full of detail, and yet it is so well arranged that the
beginner as well as the expert will read it with profit. —Saturday Review.

“From the first to the last page it is packed with such information as
the apiculturist particularly needs. One can read, learn, and enjoy.
Mr. Digges has the faculty of marshalling his facts in the clearest possible
way. Every point of importance in the subject is expounded.”’—Agricultural
Economist.

“The style is simple, vigorous, and crisp, yet withal occasionally soaring
up into dazzling flights of beautiful and touching eloquence. Some of the
paragraphs remind one of the stately and majestic march of Maeterlinck’s
harmonious, but oftentimes involved sentences. Occasionally we get a
flash of Celtic wit—we never meet either a dull or uninteresting paragraph.’’—
Kerry Sentinel.

““A thoroughly trustworthy, complete, and up-to-date manual of the art of
modern beekeeping. The arrangement and get up of the volume deserve a
special word of commendation. In order to facilitate reference, beside the
caption every paragraph is numbered, so that the special point upon which
information is sought can be turned up without trouble. What will certainly
attract the non-beckeeper is the character of the illustrations.’”’—Irish Times.

““This manual will be found a perfect encyclopedia of knowledge in
regard to the-bee. The author, already well known as the editor of The Irish
Bee Journal, is to be congratulated on his handling of the vast amount of
matter at his disposal. He has contrived to preserve intact all the fascination
of his subject, and, while supplying the most minute and detailed information,
to compile a book to be read with interest from other than a beekeeping
standpoint.’—‘‘ Literary World.

“Since Cheshire, twenty years ago, brought out his two expensive
volumes, ‘Bees and Beekeeping,’ nothing has appeared in these countries
dealing with the modern management of bees upon the same comprehensive
scale, as does this guide. The author's recognised ability as an expert in
beekeeping, his delightful treatment of the subject, and the very high-class
printing and binding of the volume have combined to produce a work which
has out-distanced all its competitors, and is the most comprehensive book
of its kind ever published in this country.’—Freeman’s Journal,

THE CRAFT.

Experts and Prominent Beekeepers.

“A splendid book.’’--E. H. Taytor, Welwyn, England.

“T am delighted with it.’—T. Lewis, Karbuth, Wales.

“T could not get on without it.’—Tnomas Warts, Dugort, Achill.

“I simply could not live without it.”—J. Hraq@ins, Co. Longford.

“IS is perfect, and an immense advance.’—J. ©. Derry, Hereford.

“A treasure of information.’”—S, N. Lone, Bristol.

“Oertainly the best book on bees that I have read.’—R, McKenzig, Fife.
~ “A book of great value.”—A. ScHOoLL, Apiarist, Office of State Entomology,
Texas.

“Your handsome book does you great credit.’”—Tnz Provosr or TRINITY
Coxtzee, Vice-President, Irish Beekeepers’ Association,

““T have read it at meals, read it at night, and read it at dawn, and
have become an enthusiast.”—Miss A. S., Hants.

“Since I have had your book, I find I can do everything mysclf with
my bees, which is a great saving.’’—Miss B., Devon.

“I would not wish a week to pass without a copy in the house.’’—REev.
A. Harris, Co. Wexford.

“T attribute my success chiefly to it.”—P, F. O'Byrne, County Instructor
in Beekeeping, Wexford.

““Much more interesting, instructive, and easily read than any similar
book on bees.’’—R. A, Jounsron, Burton-on-Trent.

“Follow the good advice there given and you will . . . possibly save the
price of the book in one small consignment.’—D. M. MAcDonaLp, Banff.

“Tt wants only to be known in this country to have the rest of the
guides discarded.”—Rerv. P. ASKENAZIE, Hull, Yorkshire.

“A bright attractive book, fully up-to-date.’—A. I. Roor (‘‘ Gleanings’’),
Ohio, U.S.A.

““We find it invaluable in our difficulties.”—Ststzr B. M., Harrow on
the Hill.

“T know no book can be got to equal it.”—Mrs. DAMEs-Lonewortn, Glyn-
wood, Athlone.

“The best and most up-to-date work on apiculture that I have come
across.’—A. D. SHAw, Wolverhampton.

““My constant book of reference, I find that it never fails me.’’—Rev. W.
Youne, Cheshire.

“4 delightful and most informing book.’—Rt. Hon. Str Horice PLUNKETT,
F.R.9., K.C.V.0., D.C.L., P.C., Vice-President, Dept. of Agriculture.

““When people ask me which is the best practical bee book, I tell them,
of course, that it is your Guide.’—Very Rev. F. M. Massp, Buckfast Abbey,
Bevon.

“It has reached my ideal. I have gone through a great number of
books on apiculture, but not one is comparable to it.’-—Rev. J. MEEHAN
C.C., Drumkeerin. a6)

“Full of instruction; charmingly written; in my opinion the best book
of reference for beekeepers in the English language.’’—LIcUT.-GENERAL
Porrincer, R.A. . 7

“I consider it the finest book on the subject in the English language.
I speak of what I know, as I believe I have, or had, almost every book on
the subject worth having.’—C. N. Wurre, St. Neots. P a)

“Tt is, in my opinion, an advantage that the whole subject is in one
book—so many authors divide the subject, giving natural history in one
voiume, and practical beekeeping in another. I can find nothing hut praise
for it.’—T. B. O’Brren, Expert, Irish Beekeepers’ Association, Author of
"Instruction in Beekeeping.” . . oan

““The writer, being a man of culture, and an enthusiast in all pertaining
to beekeeping, has produced a book which combines the poetry of
Meeterlinck, with the utility of the Irish Bee Journal, of which he has
been editor since its inception.’—M. H. Reap, Expert and Examiner, Hon
Seo. Irish Beekeepers’ Association.

THE

PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE

A Manual of Modern Beekeeping

HE

Practical Bee Guide

A Manual of Modern Beekeeping

BY
THE REV. J. G. DIGGES, M.A.

Expert, and Member of the Examining Board, Irish Beekeepers
Association; Editor, ‘‘ Irish Bee Journal.”

SECOND EDITION
NINTH THOUSAND

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., LTD., London
EASON & SON, LTD,, Dublin and Belfast
THE IRISH BEE JOURNAL, Office, Lough Rynn, Co. Leitrim, Ireland

[Copyright. All rights reserved. |

re)

CONTENTS:

ioe es ee
PAGE

Preface to the First Edition ... es au oa ix;
Preface to the Second Edition ... any aoe .. WiLL
x.

Note

PART 1!.—The Honey Bee.

Chapter I—The Occupants of the Hive nae I
General Remarks, 1, 2. Occupants of the hive, 8. . Queen, 4.
Workers, 5. Drones, 6.

Chapter II.—The Bee in Spring aa ae
Signs of survival, 7. Breeding begins, 8. Work out of doors
commences, 9. Wax production and comb building, 10. Sanita-
tion in the hive, 14. Guarding the portal, 12. Approach of
summer, 13.

Chapter III.—The Bee in Summer ... oe Pee 7
A crisis, 14. The Mysterious Influence, 15. Indomitable spirits, 16.
Queen rearing, 17. The swarm—a deliberated sacrifice, 18. The
swarm—an ecstacy, 19. Virgin Queen, 20. Queen’s wedding, 24.
Parthenogenesis, 22. A splendid example, 23.

Chapter IV.—The Bee in Autumn and Winter See 13
Death of the Drones, 24. Approach of winter, 25.

Chapter V.—Anatomy of the Bee 5 15
General Remarks, 26. External skeleton, 27. Tead, 28. " Simple
eyes, 29. Compound eyes, 30. Antenne, 31. Organs of mouth,
82. Thorax, 33. Legs, 34. Wings, 35. Spiracles and Trachee,
36. Abdomen, 37. Honey sac, 38. Worker’s sting, 39. Palpi,
40. Queen’s sting, 414. Organs of Drone, 42. Organs of Queen,
43. Parthenogenesis, 44. Fertilisation of egg, 45.

Chapter VI.—Different Races of Bees ith 30
Black or Native bees, 46. Italians or Ligurians, a7. Carniolans, 48
Cyprians, 49. Syrians, 50. Giant, 54. Common East Indian, 52.
Dwarf East Indian, 58. Stingless, 54. Sand, 55. Leafcutter, 56.
Caucasians, 56b. ‘

Chapter VII.—Bee Products, &c. 33
Honey, 57. Gathering and storing honey 58. Water in honey: 59.
Honey as food, 60. Honey Dew, 61. Beeswax, 62. Honey used in
wax production, 63. Paraffin wax and Ceresin wax, 64. Honey
comb, 65. Worker cells, 66. Drone cells, 67. Hexagonal cells,

» 68. Transitional or Intermediate cells, 69. Use of cells for storing,

70. Queen cells, 74. Cappings, 72. Value of combs, 73. Pollen,

74. Propolis, 75. Adulteration of Honey, 75b.

ii OONTENTS.

PART |I.—Hives and Appliances.
PAGE
Chapter VIII.—Hives and Frames _... aoe ie 40
Ancient hives, 76. The skep, 77. Uses of skeps, 78. The skep
giving place to the moveable comb hive, 79. Genesis of the move-
able comb hive, 80. Advantages of the moveable-comb hive, 814.
The hive in general use in Ireland, 82. Internal measurements,
83. ‘‘Federation” hive, 84. Floor-board, 85. Body-box, 86.
Lift or Riser, 87. Roof, 88. ‘ W.B.C.”’ hive, 89. Observatory
hive, 90. “I.B.A. 1909” hive, 91. ‘‘ Hibernian” hive, 92.
Dummy or Division Board, 93. Use of Dummy, 94. ‘ Federation ”’
dummy, 95. Sheet and quilts, 96. Frames, 97. Various sizes of

frames, 98. ‘‘ Claustral Detention Chamber,’’ 98b.

Chapter IX.—Appliances for Supering 53
Supering, 99. Section, 100. Sections of various kinds, 401. “"Separa.
tor, 102. Section crate, 103. Divisional crate, 104. Observatory
crate, 105. Follower, 106. Hanging crate, 407. Super box, 108.

Excluder, 109.

Chapter X.—Comb Foundation 59
Use of, 110. Invention of, 111. Varieties of, 142. Advantages of,

113. Adulteration of, 141% Change of colour, 115. Quantity
required, 116. Fixing foundation, 117. Wiring appliances, 118

Chapter XI.—Appliances for Feeding Bees _... my 64
Feeding, 119. Economic, feeder, 120. Bottle and stage feeder, 121.
Graduated feeder, 122. Slow and rapid feeders, 123. Canadian
feeder, 124. Division board feeder, 125.

Chapter XII.—Appliances for Subduing and Handling
Bees 67
Smoker, 126. Carbolic cloth, 427. Use of veils, 428. Lady’ s veil,
129. Wire-cloth veil, 130. Use of gloves, 184. Various gloves, 132.

Chapter XIII.—Appliances for Honey and Wax Extrac-
tion

Invention of the honey extractor, 133. "Honey extractor: 134, Un-

capping knife, 135. Strainer and Ripener, 136. Honey press, 137.

Wax extractors, 138. Solar wax extractor, 139. Steam wax

extractor, 140.

2

PART Iit!.—Modern Bee-Keeping.

Chapter XIV.—Past and Present : a si 76
Past ignorance, 144. Survival of the ‘unfit, 142. Modern bee.

keeping, 143. A profitable industry, 144.

Chapter XV.—Arranging an Apiary .. Bo
Selecting a position, 145. Bees near dwellings, 146. Position of the

hives, 147. Appliance press and apiary house, 148.

CONTENTS. iii
PAGE

Chapter XVI.—Commencing Bee-Keeping 83
Three words of advice, 149. Begin on a small scalet "450. Purchasing
bees, 151. Commencing with a swarm, 152. Moving swarms, 153.
Sending swarms per post, 154. Commencing with a stock, 155.
Moving stocks, 156. Moving stocks in skeps by road or rail, 157.
Moving stocks in frame hives by road or rail, 158. Commencing
with driven bees, 159. Driving bees, 160. Study the subject, 164.

Chapter XVII.—Subduing and Handling Bees no 92
Tranquilising influence of smoke, 162. Unprovoked stinging excep-
tional, 163. Fearless defence of the home, 164. What constitutes

a ‘‘ Master of Bees,’ 165. Swarming bees—harmless, 166. Full of
sweets—empty of bitterness, 167. A firm and gentle hand neces-
sary, 168. Protection for beginners, 169. Treatment of stings, 170.

Chapter XVIII.—Manipulating 99
Appliances required, 171. Comb stand, 172. Comb box, 173. Vase-
line and Petroleum jelly, 17%. Preparing the smoker, 175. Prepar-
ing the carbolic cloth, 176. Opening the hive, 177. Manipulating
wicked stocks, 178. Forcing the pace, 179: Smoking overdone,
180. No food—no subjugation, 181. Examining the combs:
finding the queen, 182. The combs described, 183. Removing
bees trom combs, 184. Turning combs, 185. Searching for the
Queen, 185b.

Chapter XIX.—Breeding as ee OS
Breeding begins, 186. Congestion ine be emarded against, 187.
Drone-breeding queens, 188. Age of larve, 189. Worker brood,
190. New combs for breeding, 194. Stimulating in spring, 192,
Spreading the brood, 193. Drone brood, 194%. Controlling drone
rearing, 195. Queen cells, 196. Nursing queen larve, 197.
Wonderful effects of special nursing, 198. Queen brood, 199.
Laying workers, 200. Removing laying workers, 204. Stimulat-
ing in autumn, "902. Breeding ceases, 203. Metamorphosis, etc.,

of bees, 204.

Chapter XX.—Swarming : 118
Natural swarming, 205. Signs of swarming, 206. “Delay at swarm-
ing, 207. The swarm, 208. Vagaries of swarms, 209. To
encourage clustering, 240. Truant swarms, 241. Clipping queens’
wings, 242. The parent stock, 243. Casts, 244. Hunger swarms,
215. Prevention of swarming, 216. Giving room, 217. Ventila-
tion, 248. Limiting drone rearing, 249. Limiting queen rearing,
220. Prevention of casts, 224. Artificial swarming, 222. Condi-
tions, 223. One swaim fromone colony, 224. One stronger swarm
from two colonies, 225. Using three or more stocks, 226. Making
swarms for sale, 227. One swarm from a stock and a nucleus, 228.
Making swarms from stocks in skeps, 229. A stronger swarm from
two stocks in skeps, 230.

iv CONTENTS.

PAGE

Chapter XXI.-—Hiving: Uniting and Transferring Bees 130
Confidence in protection from stings, 234. Preparing the hive, 232.
Hiving swarms direct, 233. Swarms ‘in high trees, 234. Swarms
in awkward places, 235. Hiving from a skep, 236. Secure all the
cluster, 237. Sweetening the hiving skep, 238. Hiving by caging,
239. Iliving a swarm on the old stand, 240. Heddon method, 241.
Returning swarms, 242. Retracing swarms, 243. Uniting bees,
244. Uniting swarms, 245. Uniting two stocks, 246. Uniting
queenless bees to a stock, 247. Uniting a swarm to a stock, 248.
Uniting driven bees, 249. | Uniting driven bees to a stock, 250.
Transferring bees, 254. Transferring from hive to hive, 252.
Transferring from skep to modern hive, 253. Automatio transfer
from skep, or box, to modern hive, 254. Heddon method of
transfer, 254b. Separating swarms, 254c.

Chapter XXII.—Surplus Honey act ae Ha (lO
Preparing in time, 255. Extracted honey more profitable than comb
honey, 256. Preparing crates and scctions, 257. Three-split
sections, 258. Split top sections, 259. Unsplit sections, 260. Pre-
paring frames, 264. Wiring frames, 262. Fixing foundation in
frames, 263. Three ‘Donts.” 264. The honey flow, 265.
Putting on crates, 266. Putting on super boxes, 267. Use of
excluders, 268. Tiering crates, 269. Doubling and storifying, 270.
Supering skeps, 271. Removing supers, 272. Use of cone escapes,
278. Super clearer, 274. Use of super clearer, 275.

Chapter XXIII.—Extracting Honey ... ce ne 154
Extracting, 276. Straining and ripening, 277. Cleaning extracted
combs, 278.

Chapter XXIV.—Extracting Wax Bee a 157
Use of wax extractors, 279. Extracting by boiling, 280.
Chapter XXV.—Queen Rearing and Introduction er JESS

Qld queens, 281. Defective queens, 282. Queenlessness, 283. Signs
of queenlessness, 284 Nucleus hives, 285. Queen rearing, 286.
Using a swarmed stock, 287. Returned swarm method, 288.
Using an unswarmed stock, 289. Forming nuclei, 290. Inserting
queen cells, 291. Management of nuclei, 292. Using two stocks,
293. Distributing the nuclei, 294. Queen introduction, 295.
Balling the queen, 296. Use of queen cages, 297. Introduction by
artificial swarming, 298. Direct introduction, 299. Sending
queens per post, 300.

Chapter XXVI.—Marketing Honey ... she 4 8 TOG
Home honey, 301. Storing honey, 302. Preparing comb honey for
market, 303. Glazing sections, 30%. Packing sections for trans-
port, 305. Preparing and packing extracted honey for market, 306.

Chapter XXVII.—Robbing and Fighting oe ai 175
Robbing, 307. Precautions, 308. Signs of robbing, 309. Treat-
ment, 310.

CONTENTS. =

PACE
Chapter XXVIII.—Feeding Bees: Recipes... eel 7O
Objects of feeding bees, 311. Precautions, 312. Spring feeding, 313.
Summer feeding, 314. Autumn feeding, 815. Winte- feeding,
316. Feeding for comb building, 317. Feeding bees in skeps, 318.
Water, 319. Pollen, 320. Recipes—Spring and summer syrup, 321.
Autumn syrup, 322. Candy for Winter food, 323. Flour candy,
324. Naphthol Beta solution, 335. Measures, 326.

Chapter XXIX.—Diseases, &c. bee se ee LSS
Diseases, 327. Dysentery, 328. Symptoms, 329. Cause, 330. Pre-
vention, 331. Treatment, 332. Paralysis, 383. Symptoms, 334
Treatment, 335. Chilled brood, 336. Symptoms, 337. Cause, 338.
Prevention, 339. Treatment, 340. Black brood, 341. Symptoms,
342. Cause, 343. Treatment, 344. Pickled brood, 345. Symptcms,
346. Cause, 347. Treatment, 348. Foul brood, 349. Symptoms,
350. Cause, 351. Prevention, 352. Treatment, 383. Early
stages—treatment with formalin, 35%. Advanced stages—treatment
by burning, 355. Treatment by artificial swarming, 356. Re-
queening desirable, 357. Infected honey dangerous, 368. Disin-
fecting necessary, 359. ‘“‘ American”? and ‘‘ European”’ Foul
Brood, 359b. ‘‘Isle of Wight Disease,’ 360. Differential
diagnosis, 361. Recipes—Carbolic solution fer subduing bees,
862. Carbolic solution for disinfecting hives, 363. Carbolic
solution for disinfecting clothing, etc., 364. Formalin solution
for injecting into diseased cells, 865. Formalin solution for use
under combs, 366.

chapter XXX.—Enemies of Bees eat ae w+ 202
Enemies, 367. Ants, 368. Birds, 369. Earwigs, 370. Mice, 371.
Parasites, 372. Wasps, 373. Wax moth, 374.

Chapter XXXI.—Wintering me sh “ie= 205
Successful wintering, 375. Strong stocks, 376. Sufficient wholesemo
food, 377. Quiet, 378. Ventilation, 379. Damp and storms, 380.

Chapter XXXII.—Work for the Month vs .. 208
January to December, 381,—392.

Chapter XXXIII.—Exhibiting and Judging Bee 210
Products Hes Ee ye:
Points to be aimed at, 393. Early exhibition sections, 394. Mid-
season ditto. 395. Heather ditto, 396. Selecting ditto, 397.
Preparing ditto, 398. Extracted Clover, or Light, Honey for
Exhibition, 399. Extracting and Preparing ditto, 400. Extracted
Heather or Dark MHoney for Exhibition, 401. Extracting and
Preparing ditto, 402. Supers of Honey for Exhibition. 4938.
Beeswax for Exhibition, 404. Mead for Exhibition, 405. Vinegar
for Exhibition, 46. Judging Bee Products, HT.

Chapter XXXIV.—Bee Flowers and Plants ... oe 221

Index Bete wee ses tee oo ase 224

PREFACE, Vii

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

The generous reception which was accorded to the first
edition of this Guipr more than justified the publication of
the book, and confirmed the opinion that “there was need for
a guide to Beekeeping which should supply information and
advice of a more extensive nature than any yet published in
this country.” The Press reviews, without an exception, com-
mended it, not only in the United Kingdom, but also in the
Colonies and in far away foreign lands. The craft—practical
beekeepers engaged in the industry and capable of judging by
experience—-welcomed the book, and a large number of these
were kind enough to write to me expressing their approval
in very gracious words. Several hundreds of such letters
were received, and welcomed as evidences of that good nature
in bee-lovers which has become proverbial the world over and
has placed me under obligations to many whom, otherwise
unknown, a mutual interest has constituted familiar and
faithiul friends. Not a few of those communications were
such as might well compensate any man for years of investi-
gation and work. “I have read it at meals, read it at night,
and read it at dawn, and from a woman simply desirous of
earning a little money by keeping bees, I have become an
enthusiast”: an English correspondent put it so. From an
earnest, devoted monk, in another country, came the words—
“T never fail to carry it with me as a good companion when-
ever I am absent from home.” From Australia, a practical
apiarist wrote—‘I travel all over the State as Government
Expert, but never without the Gurpr. I have read and re-read
it. It has fascinated me. It is like The Old Book— always
interesting.” From a 4o-foot canoe, on the river of Uganda,
a travelling official wrote in similar strains. The book has
reached the most distant parts, and there, it is hoped, as well
as in these countries, has achieved some, at least, of the
objects with which it was published.

For the present edition the original work has been tho-
roughly revised. Many new paragraphs have been added,
treating of such subjects as the “W.B.C.” Hive, the “I.B.A.
1909” Hive, “Claustral Detention Chambers,” “ Searching for
the Queen,” the “Isle of Wight Disease,” Recent Investiga-
tions into the Cause of Foul Brood, etc., and a new chapter on
“Exhibiting and Judging Bee Products,” has been introduced
in response to a frequently expressed wish. The number of
illustrations has also been increased by the insertion of 20
new blocks, while, of those in the first edition, I have removed

Vill PREFACE,

53: supplying their places with others, more accurate, deeming
it wise, if not, indeed, necessary, to rely upon my pen and
camera for the illustration of manipulations, appliances, etc.,
which, usually prepared by a cheaper process, are not always
so satisfactorily presented. In these respects this Second
Edition will be found to be a distinct improvement upon the
first.

I gratefully acknowledge my indebtedness to the works of
numerous writers who have preceded me in such investigations,
from whose teaching I have learned much in a study covering
a period of nearly a quarter of a century. Among these must
be mentioned the well-known works of Mr. T. W. Cowan—
“The Honey Bee,” and “The British Bee-keepers’ Guide
Book,” (now in its nineteenth edition), from the sixth edition
of which (in 1885) I learned my first lessons in beekeeping ;
“Bees and Beekeeping,” by the late F. Cheshire, a classic,
now out of print, from which the publisher, Mr. Upcott Gill,
in addition to supplying the blocks enumerated in the Note,
page x., has generously permitted me to supply my readers
with much valuable information; and, besides these, a host
of writers of whose works IT have made an exhaustive study,
including Bagster, Bevan, Cotton, Dzierzon, De Galieu, Huber,
Huish,. Hutchinson, Hunter. J., (Phil. Trans.), Hunter, John,
Hyatt, Keys, Kirby and Spence, Langstroth, Leukart, Lub-
bock, Miller, Milton, Miner, Neighbour, Nutt, Packard, Payne,
Pettigrew, Pettitt, Pratt, Reaumur, Reid, Richardson, Root,
Samuelson, Siebold, Simmins, Smith, Taylor, Thorley,
Warder, Wighton, Wildman, Wood, and many others—some of
these long out of print, but not one of them from which a
diligent student may not learn something. In the prepara-
tion of Chapter XXXIII. I had the valuable assistance of Mr.
M. H. Read, Hon. Secretary, Irish Beekeepers’ Association,
whose experience as a successful exhibitor and judge, was
unreservedly placed at my disposal.

The alteration in the title of the Guipr has been made
partly in acknowledgment of the fact that the sale of the book
hitherto has not been chiefly in this country, and partly in
deference to the wishes of the booksellers and of a large
number of practical beekeepers, who have assured me that the
former title led to the erroneous impression that the GUIDE
was suited only to beekeeping in Ireland. Many new titles
were suggested to me: I have adopted one which appears to
me to be not extravagant, for, whatever shortcomings the
Guipr may disclose, I think that 1 may, without immodesty,
claim for it that it is essentially practical.

I offer my most sincere thanks to all who have encouraged
me by their approval and patronage of a work the sale of

PREFACE. ix

which has far exceeded my expectations, and I issue this
revised, enlarged, and improved edition in the hope that it
may enjoy a like popularity, and may prove to be a reliable
Guipe for such as are interested, or may become interested, in
the fascinating and profitable industry of Beekeeping.

J. G. DIGGES.
Clooncahir, Lough Rynn,

Co. Leitrim, May 23rd, toto.

PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION,

Queries, numbering several hundred, referred to me as
Editor of the Irish Bee Journal during the last three years,
have convinced me that there is need for a Guide to Bee-
Keeping which shall supply information and advice of a more
extensive nature than any yet published in this country, and
in fuller detail than could be accommodated in the columns
of a newspaper or periodical. Accordingly, and at the request
of several prominent Bee-Keepers interested in the spread of
the Industry, I have written this IntsH Bre GurpeE, in the
hope that it may help to promote a wider knowledge of the
wonders of Bee life, to encourage humane and _ intelligent
treatment of the Honey Bee, and to assist the development of
Bee-Keeping in Ireland as a National Industry.

J. G. DIGGES.
Clooncahir, Lough Rynn,
Co. Leitrim, May 23rd, 1904.

NOTE.—This Gurpe consists of Three Parts. Part i. (pp. 1-39), deals
with the History and Anatomy of the Bee, and with Bee
Products: Part ii. (pp. 40-75), describes the Hives and Appliances
generally in use: Part iii. (pp. 76-223), consists of Practical
Directions for Management, with instruction for exhibitors and
judges of Bee Products and a concluding chapter on Bee
Flowers and Plants. The Gutpe is arranged in numbered and
titled paragraphs. Where, in any paragraph reference to
subjects dealt with in other portious of the book is desirable,
the paragraph numbers are inserted in brackets, thus obviating
the necessity for frequent examination of the Index, and
facilitating reference to the subjects required. Of the 142
illustrations in the GurDe, 120 are from original photographs
by the author, and pen-and-ink sketches drawn specially for
this work. The author gratefully acknowledges his indebted-
ness to the following for permission to publish the illustrations
notified after their names:—Mr. W. Z. Hutchinson, Flint,
Mich., U.S.A., Fig. 2. Mr. L. Upcott Gill, London, Figs. 3,
4, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 78, 109. The A. L Root Co.,
Medina, Ohio, U.S.A., Fig. 50. The Irish Bee Journal, Ltd.,
Figs. 74 112, and illustrations on pages 52b, 99, and 150.

THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

PART I.

THE HONEY BEE.

CHAPTER I.
THE OCCUPANTS OF THE HIVE.

Kingdom—Animal. Sui-Kingdom—Anmulosa, Division—Arthropoda.
Class—Insecta. Order—Hymenoptera. Family—Apide.
Genus—Apis. Species—Mellifica.

““Therefore doth heaven divide
The state of man in divers functions,
Setting endeavour in continual motion;
To which is fixed, as an aim or butt,
Obedience; for so work the honey-bees;
Creatures that by rule in nature, teach
The act of order to a peopled kingdom.”
SHAKESPEARE.

1. It is natural that a guide to bee-keeping should begin
with a description of the bees that are to be kept. And it is
very necessary that everyone who desires to derive either
pleasure or profit from the keeping of bees should know some-
thing of the bees which he proposes to keep—of their habits,
their requirements, of the laws which govern their actions,
and of the objects to which their marvellous energies and
intelligence are devoted.

2. Therefore this guide begins with a description of the
occupants of the hive, namely, the Queen, the Workers, and
the Drones.

2 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

3. The Occupants of the Hive. In the summer months the
hive of a prosperous colony of bees will be found, upon
examination, to contain a queen, from 30.000 to 60,000 workers,
and from 300 to 400 drones.

(Original Photo.)
QUEEN. WORKER. DRONE.
Fig. 1.

4. The Queen (Fig. 1) is not the sovereign ruler of the bee
kingdom, as her name might imply. She is neither daughter,
wife nor widow of a king. She is obedient rather than
commanding; and yet a queen in her own right; born to the
purple; pre-eminent and distinguished above all others; the
abundant mother, carrying in her prolific womb the creation
and hope of unnumbered millions of her race. Hers is the
longest life, extending to several years. Her very movements
are queenly, the stately pace among her children marking her
out to the observant as distinct from other occupants of the
hive. In size, and form, and colour she is unique; longer,
more delicately moulded, darker in hue. Her mission is to
propagate; and for that most holy office nature endows her
richly. Mated once for all, her strength, her life to it are
unceasingly devoted. Within the hours that make a day and
night 3,000 eggs from her teeming flanks may fall; and this
prodigious labour will cease only with exhaustion of fecundity
or approach of death. (45).

5. The Workers (Fig. 1) are the smallest bees in the colony;
females, like the queen, but undeveloped. Theirs is a brief
life, full of toil, of work so incessant that in the full flow of
summer activity it yields to the pressure of exacting duty; and
within a few weeks they drop and die, sacrificed to the demands
of destiny, martyrs to the common good. If born in the
autumn months they can survive the winter time of rest, and
with the opening spring begin the work which unborn genera-
tions are to take up and carry to completion. Their responsi-

The figures in brackets, thus (45), refer to the paragraphs bearing the num
bers indicated.

THE OCCUPANTS OF THE HIVE. 3

bility is exceeding great; their labour is magnificent. They
are the gatherers who, when nature decks the country side
with fresh beauties, sally forth, and hurrying ever from flower
to flower, collect the nectar, and pollen with which to feed the
young, and propolis to fill up cracks and make the hive more
homely. They manufacture wax, and with it build the combs
which serve as cradles of the race, and larders for the store of
honey. They feed the queen, nurse the young, cleanse the
hive, and set up portal-guards to defend from all aggression
the citadel that holds the secret of their destiny—the treasure
of their faithful hearts. Fearless, surpassing diligent, beauti-
fully unselfish, their marvellous intelligence fits them for that
stupendous enterprise to which their lives are devoted, and for
which they gladly die. (15).

6. The Drones (Fig. 1) or male bees, are thick and bulky,
not so long as the queen, but longer than the workers. These
are the oft maligned noisy, buzzing bees—

“The lazy yawning drone”

of Shakespeare, and the harmless, innocent butts for the gibes
of modern critics. Theirs is a life of brief dependence and
submission. They gather no stores: nature has not fitted
them to do so. The one object of their existence is to fertilise
the young queens. To that end they are born, are tolerated
in the colony, and are allowed free access to the honey cells.
Theirs, also, is the sacrifice of life to duty; and such of them
as survive to the close of autumn are driven out of the hive to
end, in cold and hunger, a life which, if seemingly idle or
useless, was, at least, inoffensive, and full of possibilities
whose vastness fills with awe and amazement every thinking
mind. (43).

4 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER II.
THE BEE IN SPRING.

7, Signs of Survival.—With the lengthening of the days, the
living mass clinging to the hive-combs feels the quickening
breath of spring, and the bees of the cluster begin to move.
Those on the outside pass in to the warmer centre of the sphere.
The sun, in genial humour peeping through the open door,
gives to the long-imprisoned inmates assurance of kindlier
conditions without; and the bee-man, watching for signs of
survival, delights to see first one, and then another, and
presently many of his little pets appear upon the alighting
board. Discreet in their new-found joy, they risk no long
excursion, nor venture over much. Scenting the freshness of
the air, they seem to revel in it, and in the heat and light
which stir the life in them. They move about the entrance;
examine the doors and porch; meet and salute each other; and
rising, fly for a moment in front of the hive. A gladsome
hour this for the bee-man also; an infectious happiness.
He knows now that snow and storms, and all the frost and
cruel winter hardships have failed to work their devastation
within the little home which his foresight and loving care
secured and sheltered before the falling leaves had left the
branches bare. With each succeeding sun the bees in larger
numbers move abroad—creatures “fanatically cleanly,” who
will suffer much and long and yet refuse to sully the purity
that their incessant care preserves within the hive.

8. Breeding begins.—In this, the new year’s opening month,
begins that wondrous work on which the thoughts, and
energies, and hopes of all the colony are concentrated (186).
The queen, stirring in the centre of the cluster, communicates
to all around her that the hour has come for which, through
the long months of winter, they have lived and waited; and
activity spreads throughout the hive. From cell to cell, within
a small circle, she passes, examining each, and depositing
therein a tiny egg. Upon it nurse bees will lavish most tender
care. During three days they will hatch it; and then, the grub
appearing, it shall be fed for five days with food of the sweetest
and purest—honey and pollen drawn from the flowers in the
previous summer and stored for this same purpose in adjacent
combs. Then shall the cell be sealed, still warmed by the

THE BEE IN SPRING. 5

clustering nurses, until the larva, transformed into a nymph
shall, one weck later, emerge a perfect bee to share the labours
and to participate in the busy, and often hazardous enterprises
of the colony. (204).

9. Work Out of Doors commences.—Meanwhile the queen
has enlarged the circles of her brood, and has ventured upon
fresh combs. Her downy progeny are bursting their cells on
every side; the population is increasing, and the temperature
of the hive rises rapidly. Outside, a spirit of resurrection has
entered into nature, in whose scenes of progressive loveliness
everything that moves experiences a new joy.

“The softly warbled song
Comes from the pleasant woods, and coloured wings
Glance quick in the bright sun that moves along
The forest openings.”

Advancing spring has rescued from the embrace of winter the
purple anemone and yellow crocus, fresh as the morning dew,
and lovelier than the robe of Solomon in the days of his glory;
gorse has made the hill-sides golden; hazel, and silex, and
dandelion open their attractions around the fields. And from
out the hive come the busy workers to gather in the stores
kind nature has provided, and in turn, to render her good
offices by transfer of the fertilising dust from flower to flower
(74). Where nectar is, they sip it; where pollen, their feathery
hairs collect it, and in the little baskets (corbicule) with which
their hindmost legs are furnished (34) they bear it home to
feed the larve. Water also they will find, for breeding cannot
progress without it; and propolis to fasten joints and to exclude
unwelcome draughts (75). These safely delivered up to those
who work within, they start afresh, nor cease their eager gather-
ing until the fading light, or cooling atmosphere warns them
that the life required to-morrow must not be sacrificed to-day.

10. Wax Production and Comb Building.—Within the hive
there is proceeding a work most truly marvellous. Those
bees whose part it is to supply material for the building of the
combs, have fed themselves from stores of honey, and, clinging
one to the other in shape of festoons first, to thus facilitate the
climbing of the rest, have formed in compact cluster (62).
There, motionless, during many hours they hang, retaining and
increasing the heat within the mass until a high temperature
is attained; when upon the ventral plates, or pockets, under
the abdomen appear clear scales of wax (37). First transferring
these to the mouth for preparation, they hand them over to
the builders, who, taking them in their mandibles, construct
with them the comb—the masterpiece “that touches absolute

G THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

perfection,” by which the bees have taught a lesson to the
highest human intelligence, and have applied the shape and
form which give the greatest capacity and strength with least
expenditure of material, time, and labour. (68).

11. Sanitation in the Hive.—Other bees fulfil a lowlier task
and undertake the cleansing of the hive. The winter’s dead
they carry out for burial. The brood which, immature and
chilled and lifeless, occupy cells that missed the cluster’s
nursing warmth, are seized and dragged away to safer
sepulture lest they infect the living, and render unavailing
the anxious labours of the colony. The floor board, littered
with particles of broken comb, and pollen pellets, and dust
from two hundred thousand tiny, restless feet that come and
go unceasingly, is swept and cleaned. For, nothing that can
be moved or torn asunder, and that is not sweet and pure like
bees themselves and like the largess of the open flowers, may
linger long among those cheerful toilers who, if cleanliness
be next to godliness, are, of all the insect class, nearest heaven.

12. Guarding the Portal.—Others still, placed about the
portal, keep guard upon the treasury. Their watchful office
is to see that all who seek an entrance have lawful business
there. These are the sleepless sentinels, well armed, who
pounce at once upon stranger bees and drive them off;
or with their poison-stings make execution upon such as,
intent on robbery, are bold enough to risk a conflict. (399).

13. Approach of Summer.—And the patient, earnest qucen—
a slave to duty and willing minister of all, encouraged by the
steady flow of honey, puts forth her best endeavours. Comb
after comb is filled from top to base with honey sealed, and
hatching brood, and larve pearly white, and eggs lke bits
of silken thread upon the bases of the cells. Beneath the
porch two ceaseless streams of merry bees pass and return.
For currant, thorn, and sycamore have hurried into bloom,
and summer, with its happy song and gladsome days, is near
at hand.

“Fresh flow’rs shall fringe the wild brink of the stream,
And with the songs of joyance and of hope
The hedgerows shall ring loud.”

THE BEE IN SUMMER. 7

CHAPTER III.
THE BEE IN SUMMER.

14. A Crisis.—About the time that sees the clover showing
white in growing meadows, affairs within the hive approach
a crisis. 50,000 gatherers, speeding upon the fragrant breezes
through every sunny hour of May, have carried home great
quantities of nectar to fill to overflowing each vacant cell. The
queen, who, possessed of an insatiable desire for re-production
and in the full flow of maternal vigour, has increased by
thousands daily the number of her children, now finds herself
encroached upon in her domain. The combs are fully occupied.
The hive is crowded. The little bands of “fanners” at the
door exhaust themselves in vain endeavours to ventilate their
over-heated home (59). The bees returning from the fields
loiter at the entrance, and hesitate to add their presence to the
close-packed mass within. Some will cluster there, victims of
a strange inertia;

““The slow hours measuring off an idle day.”

Within a week the hatching brood will add a new congestion.
Plainly a crisis has arrived. Something must be done, and
done at once; for in bee life, except in winter, inactivity is the
extreme vice that merits naught of mercy.

15. The Mysterious Influence.—Now that subtle, mysterious
Influence which governs the whole life of the bee from the
moment in which she struggles from her uncapped cell, a
downy, awkward infant, until worn out with strain of excessive
industry she drops from some pink heather bell, in the autumn
evening, to rise no more: that silent, persistent, irresistible
Influence which orders the economy of the hive; inspires each
tiny occupant with courage of a hero; makes all instinct with
uniformity of splendid purpose; and endows them with glorious
spirit of self-sacrifice above all human imitation—a willingness
to leave all, to lose all, and to bear all that may be, for love
of the race and reverence for its destiny—asserts itself. A
tremor passes through the bees, and an entirely new emotion
seizes them. That love of others which recks not of personal
suffering ; that awe of the future which counts not of present

8 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

perils; that infrequent exaltation which beautifies self-abnega-
tion, idealizes the Unknown, and yields up life itself for
others—possesses them. Their patient, untiring labours have
secured for them supreme success: now they will forfeit all.
They have reached the highest point of affluence: now they
will renounce their wealth and fall to poverty. Their home 1s
furnished through, and stored with food abundantly: now they
will leave to others the fruits their energies have borne, forsake
their home, and rush out, wildly exuberant of happiness, to
build again their fortune, or in houseless cold and hunger
to die.

16. Indomitable Spirits.—Not, however, without their queen.
She shall accompany them. It is not meet that they should
too far court disaster (209). Without her, they must inevitably
perish. With her, they shall die indeed, yet live again in their
successors. Nor will their indomitable spirits contemplate
extinction. Let but some friendly nook be found—some cavity
in a spreading tree whose advancing age provides a cradle for
a new born race; there combs will form again, and eggs be
tended, and every passer-by shall hear the humming music of
the bees, down by the river side where

“the curling waves
That break against the shore, shall lull the mind
By one soft impulse saved from vacancy.”

17. Queen Rearing.—However, one all-important preparation
must first be made. The bees which stay behind to nurse the
growing brood must have a queen to raise the colony to
strength again when the enthusiastic swarmers shall have
carried off the venerated mother bee. This, by one stupendous
miracle of nature, shall be accomplished. Not one, but many
queens shall be provided, lest any untoward accident should
mar the great design. The workers, eager to center on their
new adventure, construct some special cells (196) by sacrifice
of other cells around them—cells larger and with thicker walls.
In them the queen, with that sublime indifference to personal
advantage which at the moment actuates her, deposits eggs.
These, which in ordinary course of nature would produce but
worker bees—females undeveloped, incapable of impregna-
tion—shall be supphed with richer food, and in more
abundance; shall have their cells enlarged yet more, and
strengthened, and made to hang, in shape like acorns, between
the combs (Fig. 2); until the cells are capped, and the royal
princesses are left to spin their silken veils and, within a
week, to emerge as perfect virgin queens.

THE BEE IN SUMMER. 9

18. The Swarm—A Deliberated Sacrifice.— Meanwhile restless-
ness seizes the old queen, who sees that the fulfilment of her
maternal duty has been applied to raise, within the kingdom
which she alone has
peopled, rival claim-
ants to her throne.
She is not satisfied.
She hurries’ from
comb to comb, vainly
endeavouring to as-
sert an authority long
subordinated to the
requirements of her
children. She even
threatens the young
princesses in their
waxen nurseries. Wild
excitement results
among the little citi-
zens. The palace of
peace and home of
steady labour is
thrown into confu-
sion. It is all so
novel, this mad dis-
order and revolution
of which no drone or
worker has had ex-
perience previously.
It is the perplexing
acceleration of delibe-
rated sacrifice, com-
ing suddenly, rush-
ing headlong, like
the bursting of a

Fig. 2. mountain torrent that
QUEEN CELLS. _ cannot by any means
(Photo by W. Z. Hutchinson). be stayed. The vats

of honey are opened, and multitudes are feeding eagerly; for
suspected danger always leads the bees to lay in store for
quick emergencies (167). The temperature has risen to a point
insufferable. The queen and all her people realize that the
moment has arrived for the inevitable, reckless sacrifice which,
in its ready willingness to give up all for the future of the
race, invests the swarm with that uncommon glory which,
during long ages, has been recognised and admired by

astonished man.

10 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

19. The Swarm—An Ecstacy.—Pouring from the insufficient
opening they come, in bewildering haste; a riotous throng,
rapturously jubilant, in the very ecstacy of extravagant
emotion; harmless, too, in their design, and in their exaltation
so sweetly amiable that he who will may handle them in safety
(166). A vast multitude it is, rushing hither and thither, with
great noise of humming, until the queen has joined them from
the hive and has alighted upon some neighbouring tree.
Then they gather round her—in very numbers assuring her
timid heart, unaccustomed to rough exposure and risk of outer
dangers—and form a cluster with the faithful mother, so still
that any passing traveller may hardly notice them. Now let
the watchful owner hive them without delay, and set them to
work in a new home, or they will rise and, following their
scouts sent out before to find a dwelling, will settle in some
distant tree or chimney, or will invade the ruined tower upon
the neighbouring hill, and so be lost to useful purpose. (208).

20. The Virgin Queen.—The now depleted stock, deprived
of more than half its numbers by that most boisterous exodus
which robbed it also of its queen, presents once more a scence
of peaceful labour. As if no mighty revolution had just dis-
turbed their order, the bees pursue their avocations, apparently
oblivious of the strange events which, but an hour ago, had
shaken their kingdom to its foundations. A few days later the
strongest of the young princesses is heard piping in her cell,
as if conscious of the high importance of the position that
awaits her, and impatient to attain it before her hatching rivals
can intervene. The apex of her cell the workers have
thinned and smoothed in order to assist her exit. Presently
she will cut the capping and, pressing against it, force it open
like a round, hinged lid (Fig. 14, A), and step out upon the
comb. The nearest honey cell shall have her first attention;
and then she who shall give life to unnumbered millions,
will devote her first active hours to massacre. Reaching the
other queen cells she will endeavour to tear them open at the
sideg and to slay her rivals (199). If this be not permitted,
she will stay, and watch her opportunity to wage a battle-royal
with any young princess who ventures abroad among the
combs; or she will join an after-swarm (214), thus abdicating
the position which, for so short a time and anxious, she
occupied, and seeking peace in some new home where she may
fulfil her task unhindered. But if the hive economy require
no further division of the forces, the royal cells will be attacked
(Fig. 14, B), and the occupants, astounded at this violent assault
upon their privacy, be destroyed. “One queen, one kingdom,”
is, as in the domain of man, a law of bee life admitting few
exceptions.

THE BEE IN SUMMER. 11

21. The Queen’s Wedding.—So, in fifteen days from the
depositing of the egg, a virgin queen has opened her astonished
eyes upon the hive which is to be her home; upon the restless
workers who come and go, and hurry back well laden; upon
the drones, those bulky, strong-winged males whose lives,
though short and helpless, are not devoid of joy; upon the
combs that hold the nectar stores, and gilt-capped cells of
hatching nymphs whose vacant places, when they emerge,
she must occupy with living germs that shall produce a
multitude, renewing month by month the population wasted by
excessive toil. But this, not yet. So far she moves about un-
noticed, in constant exploration that knows no instant’s rest,
and preparation for that wondrous incident which shall entitle
her to claim the homage of her people, and to her queenly
title add the higher, and more sacred name of “ Mother.” So
far she has not felt the glow of sunshine, nor filled her trachez
(36) with the breath of heaven. The eventful hour has not
arrived. She must wait a few days more before she stakes
herself, and all the secret of the future, upon the hazard of a
flight. Then she approaches the entrance, inspecting every-
thing, but not daring to venture farther. Again she appears,
and hurries up and down; excited; impelled by that mysterious
exaltation which nature pours out lavishly when great ends are
to be accomplished by perilous enterprises. She spreads
ler wings and rises, quickly noting every little thing that
marks the outworks of her citadel, and far more careful in this
precaution than drone or worker, because of her exceeding
value who carries in her person the hope and destiny of all.
Pursuing wider circles she surveys the site until its every
feature becomes familiar. Meanwhile upon the open flowers
around, or resting on the sunny leaves, are countless drones,
observing, each with his magnificent eyes of 26,000 hexagonal
lenses (30), the timid virgin’s movements. Soon the loud
humming of the full-fed males attracts the young quecn, and
as she enlarges the circles of her flight and passes over them,
instantly they are in full pursuit. Here may be observed wise
Nature’s regulation that gives the battle to the strong, and to
the brave the fair. The agile lover; he whose self-restraint
has dipped with temperate appetite into the honey vats, and
whose quick power of flight, not lessened by emasculating
idleness, is trained and strengthened by sufficient exercise,
is first to reach the qucen, and in brief ecstacy of that embrace
gives all his vigour to the making of a hardy race; and, giving
all, he dies. (42).

22. Parthenogenesis.—Thus mated once for all, the queen
returns and meets a welcome from her people. Never will she
leave the hive again, unless the swarming of the colony compels

12 > ‘ ot .

THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.
her. She will take up the task of supplying the vacant cells
with eggs. Gencration after generation shall live and die, and
leave her still fulfilling her calling. Nor will several years
exhaust the 25,000,000 spermatozoa which one short intercourse
supplied (43). Just here is disclosed another marvellous
feature in the life of the bee. The drone which fertilised the
queen; himself fatherless—the product of an unimpregnated
egg, becomes the father of countless thousands of worker bces,
and of many full-developed queens. The queen with which he
mated can, at will, lay eggs of either sex. Passing across the
comb from cell to cell she will deposit in one an egg from
which will hatch a female (worker), and in an adjoining cell,
built larger to accommodate a drone, she will lay an egg that
shall produce a male; the former impregnated as it passes the
spermatheca (43), the latter, not. Strange, also, that from the
egg which the queen, by movement of a muscle has impreg-
nated with element of the male, the workers can, at will, hatch
out an undeveloped female like themselves, or a full-developed
queen to carry on the reproduction of the species (197). And
strange, that eggs laid by a queen who never has been mated,
or by a worker who sometimes will rashly take upon her the
functions of a queen (200), will hatch out drones, and
fecundation follow upon parthenogenesis. (44).

23. A Splendid Example.—The qucen, now in “full use,”
rapidly occupies the cells with eggs, of which from 2,000 to
3,000 may be deposited in one day (4). The population rises.
The bees, encouraged by increasing quantities of brood, and
urged on by the hunger-wants of growing larve, search the
country side and carry in rich stores of nectar; still looking
to the future ; labouring for others; setting a splen’lid example
of diligence, and perseverance, and foresight. Summer will
not last for ever. They know it—these patterns of hopeful
industry, whose message to the world is wise—“ Improve the
shining hour, for time in its passing waiteth for none.”

THE BEE IN AUTUMN AND WINTER. 13

CHAPTER IV.

THE BEE IN AUTUMN AND WINTER.

“Morn on the mountain, like a summer bird,
Lifts up her purple wing; and in the vales
The gentle wind, a sweet and passionate wooer,
Kisses the blushing leaf, and stirs up life
Within the solemn woods of ash deep crimsoned,
And silver beech, and maple yellow leaved,
Where Autumn, like a faint old man, sits down
By the wayside a-weary.”

24. The Death of the Drones.—As autumn with its chill
nights and shortening days advances, the supply of nectar
rapidly diminishes in the plants. It is an anxious time for the
bees. Stores are not accumulating. The colony has suffered
serious losses. From time to time the white-sealed combs of
honey—the fruit of many days of earnest labour, have been
removed, stolen by some dexterous hand. And daily in the
combs to which the queen is wedded fresh mouths cry out for
food. Itis necessary for the survival of the colony that a limit
be set to the consumption of stores. The drones—always
heavy feeders, and for whom nature has now no sphere of
usefulness, have become, by reason of their appetite, the most
immediate danger. They have had their day of indulgence,
and sunny idleness. Their continued presence in the hive:
their death within its portals when the cold of winter should
make their removal impossible and render their decaying
bodies a source of peril—must be prevented. The time has
come for them to share that sacrifice to the future which is the
lot of all alike in the community of high ideals to which they
belong. Inthis is no special injustice. Nor can one say, with
any degree of certainty, that in this laying down of life for the
sake of others there is none of that glorious spirit of love
which has inspired the workers to give themselves and all
their energies and endurance even unto death, in faithful
adherence to their purpose. The slower intelligence of the
drone may not realise at once the need that has arisen; and
the life of pampered idleness to which, in the nature of things,
he has been condemned, may unfit him for that display of
voluntary self-abnegation so visible in the other sex. Many,

14 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

however, leave the hive at noon, never to returiu. Others,
“infirm of purpose,” seek to share, for one night more, the
comforts of the hive; but sentries at the entrance forbid it and
drive them off. Others still, fearful of destiny, have clung to
the combs, with weak love of life exceptional in such a race
and feeble efforts to resist expulsion to the inhospitable fields
without. On them the workers pour the vials of their wrath,
and the helpless victims, left by nature defenceless among a
multitude of pitiless enemies, succumb to their wounds, or
are driven out to join their comrades in misfortune. As the
sun sinks and twilight gathers round the scene, the chill of
the autumn evening settles upon the vanquished, and all that
army of males, once so gay and careless, lies motionless and
dead.

25. The Approach of Winter.—That awful tragedy over, the
workers return to their more peaceful duties. Blackberry,
heather, and ivy still offer their sweets, and much remains to
be done before sufficient stores can be collected and sealed to
supply the colony with food for winter and early spring. But
foraging becomes a more precarious task. The days in which
a bee may work out of doors grow shorter. Rain and high
winds claim their victims. The strength of the stock
diminishes rapidly. And the queen gradually ceases to lay,
well knowing that presently the task of the nurse bees will
have become impossible. For autumn, with its harvest song
and glory tints, is passing, and

“The leaves are falling, falling,
Solemnly and slow;
“Caw! caw!’ the rooks are calling.
Tt is a sound of woe,
A sound of woe!”

Presently silence reigns in the hive. The bees have collected
upon the centre combs, clustering closely—

“Tnsensibly subdued to settled quiet.”

There they will hang together until, the frosts and storms of
winter passed, spring shall visit the earth again, and the
morning sun, peering through the entrance of their citadel,
shall woo them to the work and adventures of another year,

ANATOMY OF THE BED. 15
CHAPTER V.

ANATOMY OF THE BEE.

26. A Bee Guide would be far from complete if it failed to
supply such information as may appear to be necessary for all
who desire to take an intelligent interest in the management
of bees. Within the limits of such a work as this, however,
it is not possible to enter at any great length into the subject
of bee anatomy; nor, indeed, would it be desirable, for, as
Hunter has said—

“Of the natural history of the bee more has been conceived than
observed. It is commonly not only unnecessary to be minute in our
description of parts in natural history, but in general improper.
Minutiz beyond what is essential, tire the mind, and render that
which should entertain along with instruction, heavy and disagree-
able.”—Phil. Transactions, 1792.

Those who are anxious to study a subject so interesting.
may find all that they require in the \arious books which deal
with it fully.

27. External Skeleton.—The external skeleton of the bee is
composed of chitin, covered for the most part with hairs of
the same substance, which have their special uses, some as
organs of touch, some as brushes, others as gatherers of pollen,
or as clothing, protectors, or ornaments. A glance at the
illustration (Fig. 7) will show that the body of the bee is made
up of three distinct parts, viz.—the head, the thorax, and the
abdomen.

28. Head.—The head (Fig. 3) consists of several parts,
among which are included the simple eyes; the compound
eyes; the antenne or feelers; and the organs of the mouth.

29. Simple Eyes.—The three simple eyes (ocelli or stemmata),
of which one only is visible in the illustration (Fig. 3), are
arranged in triangular form upon the vertex in the queen and
worker, and in the front of the face inthe drone. They enable
the bee to judge accurately of distances out of doors, and to
see near objects in the darkness of the hive.

30. Compound Eyes.—-The two compound eyes, placed one
on each side of the head (Fig. 3), are largest in the drone,
and smallest in the worker. They are made up of a number
of separate eyes united together, and containing in the drone
about 26,000, in the worker, 12,000, and in the queen, 10,000
hexagonal lenses or facets. These, pointing in almost every
direction, give to the bee an exceedingly wide range of vision,
wider far than would have been possible with a fixed, simple

eye.

16

THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE-

TEESEEEEETTENSRS

ges ECIEEEPPESPEPIEFSEEEEE= EEF EEPE> EEE EEE BEES

EZ
PA
iQ

ERELLECEELTLLEEPEE EEEEEEEEEEE!

TRELE!

WN
>

Fig. 3
HEAD AND TONGUE OF WORKER BEE.
(Magnified sixteen times.)

a, Antenna, or Feeler; m, Mandible, or Outer Jaw: g, ¥pipharynx, or Gubi
Flap; map, Maxillary Palpus; py, Paraglossa (shown above the Lingua, opposite
pg); mz, Maxilla, or Inner Jaw; lp, Labial Palpus; l, Lingua, or Tongus.
b, Bouton, or Spoon.

ANATOMY OF THE BEE. 17

31. Antenne.—The antenne, or feelers (Fig. 3, a) are
cylindrical organs inserted close to each other in the front of
the head. They are covered with hairs; and, articulated to the
head by a hemispherical joint controlled by three muscles,
they can be moved about rapidly in every direction. They are
made up of twelve joints each in the worker and the queen,
and of thirteen joints in the drone (Fig. 4). The antenne give
to the bee a power akin to that of speech; and, by their motions,
ay language in which wants and desires can be communi-
cated.

anh

Fig. 4
LONGITUDINAL SECTION OF DRONE ANTENNA.
Nerve Structures removed (magnified twenty times).

A, sc, Scape; fl, Flagellum; 1, 2, 3, etc., No. of Joints; af, Antennary Fossa,
or Hollow; tr, Trachea; m, Soft Membrane; wh, Webbed Hairs; lm, Levator
Muscle; dm, Depressor Muscle. B, Small portion of Flagellum (magnified sixty
times)—n, Nerve; a, Articulation, or Joint.

32. Organs of Mouth.—The organs of the mouth include
the following :—The mandibles or jaws (Fig. 3, m) situated one
on either side of the labrum. Their movement is lateral. They
are provided with hairs, are exceedingly powerful, and, in the
queen and drone only, are rough and notched. The labrum
or upper lip (shown above gq, Fig. 3), moves vertically. The
epipharynx, or gum flap (g) has a covering of white membrane
exceedingly delicate, and is brought into use when liquids are
being taken up by the tongue, as explained below. The
maxille, or second jaws (mz) are hollowed out, are supplied
with very stiff hairs, and, in conjunction with the labial palpi,
form a tube in which the tongue works; they bear a short pair
of maxillary palpi, or feelers (mzp). A third pair of jaws—
second maxille, are fused together so as to form a labium, or
under lip, beneath the opening of the mouth, consisting of a

B

18 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

basal mentum, paired paraglosse (shown opposite pg), by which
liquids reach the front of the tongue for swallowing ; and labial
palpi (Ip) cach consisting of four joints, the two terminal joints
being very small and supplied with sensitive hairs. These
palpi embrace the tongue behind, as the maxille embrace it
before, and together form a tube surrounding the tongue, as
stated. The lingua, or tongue (I) is connected at its roots with
the mentum, and is stretched out or withdrawn by the action
of the protractor linguce and retractor lingue muscles. Covering
it is a sheath clothed with hairs some of which are sensitive.
At the extremity of the tongue is the spoon (b), which is provided
with delicate hairs. When large quantities of liquid are to
be taken up, the tongue, sweeping backwards and forwards
by means of a highly elastic rod running through its centre,
gathers the liquid upon its hairs; the maxillz and the labial
palpi form a tube around it; and, the front of the epipharynx
being lowered to close the space above the maxille, the tube
is completed to the esophagus or gullet (38), and the liquid
is taken up. When very small quantities of liquid are being
taken, the delicate hairs of the spoon, which are capable of
gathering up the most minute quantities, collect the liquid and
transfer it to grooves at the back of the spoon, from which it
is taken up to the paraglossz, where it reaches the front of the
tongue and is swallowed (58). The tongues of the queen and
drone are shorter than that of the worker, the last, only, of the
three having laid upon her the duty of gathering nectar from
the tlowers.

33. Thorax.—The thorax (Fig. 7) consists of the three seg-
ments below the head, and styled the pro-thorax, next the
head, and bearing the front pair of legs (34), the meso-thoraz,
in which are articulated the second pair of legs and the first pair
of wings (35), and the meta-thoraxz, which carries the third pair
of legs and the second pair of wings, and has the first segment
of the hind body, or abdomen, (37), fused with it. The thorax
is covered with hairs, long and feathered in the worker for the
collection of pollen, and in the drone short and spiny, with
great power of clinging, but unsuited to the gathering cf
pollen. The queen is comparatively bare, her mission being
confined, chiefly, to the hive.

“A little device will make the bees our assistants in studying their
thoracic and lee structure. Take a thin string, about a foot long,
and at each end fix a dead bee, by tying round the neck. Drop the
suspended ‘culprits’ between the frames of a stock, so that the middle
of the string rests like a saddle on the top bar. In a couple of days,
every hair will be cleaned from the ‘ gibbets,’ and their bodies
polished like these of beetles, so that the attachment of the wings,
the spiracles, the lines dividing pro-, meso-, and meta-thorax, the
actual form of the leg joints, and the character of their articulations.
with many other interesting points, will be clearly visible.”’—Cheshire.

ANATOMY OF THE BEE, 19

34. Legs .—
Three pairs of
legs originate in
the thorax—the:
anterior legs in
the pro-thorax ;
the intermediate
legs in the meso-
thorax; the pos-
terior legs in
the meta-thorax.
The anterior leg
has the curry-comb—a_ semi-circular
toothed recess, and a velwm, cr sail,
by which the antennz are combed, the
legs being moved to the front of the
head, and then drawn outwards, clean-
ing the antenne which have dropped
into the recesses. The intermediate
leg is furnished with a spur which has
been supposed to act as a lever to re-
move the pollen balls from the corbi-
cula, but the precise use of which is
still a subject of controversy. The
posterior, or hind leg of the worker
(Fig. 5), consisting of nine joints, is
provided, as to the upper joints, with
stiff, bristling hairs, by which pollen
and propolis are collected. The tibia
(ti) and the planta (p) are articulated
at the inner angles of the joints, and,
as they move, the parts opposite wp

open and shut lke jaws, the upper Fig. 5.

one having a supply of teeth which THE RIC HT TEGO
close upon the lower, flattened surface. WORKER

These jaws are used for removing the Side next the body.

plates of wax from the abdomen (62).
They are absent in the queen and rang fe

drone, wax production being a function Nine sheet cah
of the worker only. The stiff combs 4” pianta; ae Tee d
(p) remove and collect from the hairs ~’ ia

of the thorax the particles of pollen

gathered there, and these are transferred to the hollow,
fringed portion of the tibia (i) called the corbicula, or
pollen basket, the combs on the left leg supplying the
right corbicula, and those on the right acting similarly
towards the left basket. These baskets, with their loads of
varied coloured pollen, are familiar objects to all who have

(Magnified ten times.)

20 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

watched bees alighting at their hives in the breeding season
(74). Corbiculz do not appear on the posterior legs of either
the queen or the drone, the duty of collecting and carrying
pollen being assigned to the worker only. The queen, a great
walker, has the largest legs, and the drone has the smallest.
The tarsus, or foot (t) has five joints, the terminal joint being
furnished with two unguicult, or claws, of great strength, which
can be turned up or down as required. These claws enable
the bees to cling to their combs, to fix themselves securely to
other substances, and also to suspend themselves to the hive-
top, or to each other in festoons (10) or clusters. Between the
claws is the pulvillus, or cushion, which secretes an oily, sticky
substance that enables the bee to move about upon, or to
adhere to glass and other smooth surfaces.

Fig. 6.
WINGS OF THE BEE.—NERYVURES, CELLS, AND DETAILS

A and B, Anterior and Posterior Right Wings of Worker (under side), magni-
fied eight times,—7 to 14, Cells; c,d, Plait; e,f, Hooklets. OC Plait and
Hooklets, magnified twenty-five times—c’,d’, Plait; e/,f’, Hooklets. D, Cross
Section (through line a, b,) of p, Plait, and h, Hooklet, locked together.

ANATOMY OL THE BEE. 9)

35. Wings.—The wings (Fig. 6), which also originate in the
thorax, are four in number,—the anterior pair and the pos-
terior pair, articulated into the meso-thorax and the meta-
thorax respectively. The upper and outward margin of the
posterior wing has a number of hooklets (B. e, f,) and the lower
and inner margin of the anterior wing is folded in a plait (A.
c, d,). As the anterior wing is raised for flight, its folded
plait passes over the hooklets of the posterior wing and is
caught by them (C, and D. p, h), so that the two wings act
together as one wing, thus, on the principle—“ Unity is
strength,” adding power and speed to the flight. When the
bee alights, the wings become free, and lie closely over the
abdomen, thus permitting the insect to enter comb cells, which,
otherwise, would be impracticable. The wings of the drone
are the largest, and those of the workers the shortest. The
vibrations, when in flight, have been calculated by Marey at
190 per second, and by Landois at 440. Bees can fly back-
wards, and. even when in full flight, can stop very suddenly.
When leaving the hive to collect food they will fly at the
rate of from fifteen to twenty miles an hour; but, when return-
ing heavily laden, their speed is much less, varying from five
to twelve miles an hour. The limit of their usual flight from
the hive on foraging duty may be taken as two miles. They
have, however, been known, in exceptional circumstances, to
travel as far as seven miles in search of food.

36. Spiracles and Trachew.—The breathing of the bee is
carried on through the spiracles, or openings, in the sides of
the body (Fig. 7. s) which can be opened or closed at will.
These spiracles admit air to the trachez, or tubes, which, as
shown in the illustration, ramifying in countless number
throughout the body, convey the necessary oxygen to the
various organs. The development of the trachez into vesicles,
or air sacs, of which the main ones lie in the anterior portion of
the abdomen in the worker and drone, greatly assists the bee's
flight. When inflated, the air sacs increase the size of the
body, thus altering its specific gravity and reducing the amount
of effort necessary to accomplish a long and rapid flight (21).
A bee, at rest, suddenly disturbed, may often be observed to
jump, or fly a couple of inches before taking wing, the air sacs
not being filled; then, with the lifting of the wings, and rapid
extension and contraction of the abdomen, air is drawn through
the spiracles into the vesicles; the spiracles are closed, and the
insect rises in flight. Immersed in liquid, breathing through
the spiracles is stopped, and the insect dies.

22 TUE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

/

Wg NG 9 9
3

\ 90,99
S999 gg

Fig. 7.
DIGESTIVE SYSTEM OF BEE (Magnified ten times).

A, Horizontal Section of Body—/p, Labial Palpus; ma, Maxilla; e, Eye;
dv, Dorsal Vessel; v, Ventricles; Nos. 1, 2, 3, Salivary Gland System; @
(Esophagus; pro.t, Prothorax ; mesa.t, Mesathorax ; meta.t, Metathorax ; g.g,
Ganglia of Chief Nerve Chain; n, Nerves; hs, Honey Sac; p, Stomach-mouth ;
cs, Chyle Stomach; bt, Biliary or Malpighian Vessels; si, Small Intestine ;
1, Lamelle; li, Large Intestine. B, Cellular Layer of Stomach—ge, Gastric
Cells (magnified 200 times). ©, Biliary Tube—be, Bile Cells; t, Trachea. D,
Inner Layer, carrying gt, Gastric Teeth,

ANATOMY OF THE BEE. 23

37. Abdomen.—
Joined to the tho-
rax by a short
tube (the petiole),
is the abdomen
(Fig. 7). The
worker’s is en-
closed by six vis-
ible rings, or seg-
ments of chitin,
each of which is
constructed of two
plates—the dorsal
plates on the back,
and the ventral

Ritts: plates on the lower

UNDER SIDE OF WORKER BEE, SHOWING WAX — side. Those shown
SCALES, (Fig. 8) are the

(Magnified three times.) ventral plates (10)

where the wax

scales are found
(62). The abdomen of the queen is longer and more pointed
than that of either the worker or the drone, but only in the
worker are the secreting membranes present on which wax is
produced. (Fig. 1.)

38. Honey Sac.—The honey sac (Fig. 7, hs) is situated in the
abdomen, and is connected above with the esophagus, or gullet
(@), running through the thorax to the mouth (58), and
below, with the chy!e stomach (cs), beneath which are the Wdeum,
or small intestine (si) and the large intestine (i) or colon.
Between the honey sac and the chyle stomach is the stomach
mouth (») by which, at the will of the bee, the contents of the
honey sac may be admitted to, or excluded from the chyle
stomach (58). The nectar carried in the honey sac may, by con-
traction of the muscles there, be transferred as honey through
the cesophagus and mouth to the comb cells, or may be
admitted through the stomach mouth to the chyle stomach for
digestion. The honey sac can hold one-third of an ordinary
drop; but the usual load of a foraging bee is only one-fifth.

39. Sting.—The sting (Fig. 9, A) consists ofa horny sheath (sh)
terminating in a sharp toothed edge, and guiding the lancets,
or darts (d,d’,). The lancets have barbed edges (b, b,) and are
connected above, at c,c’, with the compound levers (2, k, 1, and
a, k’, V,) by which the sting may be forced into comparatively
tough substances. When the bee is avout to sting, the muscles
of the compound levers contracting revolve the latter round the
points f, f’, and, pressing upwards against the curved arms of

24 THE PRAQTICAT. Rem crrreim

Fig. 9. STING OF THE BEE.— (Magnified thirty times.)

A, Sting separated from its Muscles—ps, Poison Sac; pg, Poison Gland,
5th g, Fifth Abdominal Ganglion; n, m, Nerves; e, External Thin Membrane
joining Sting to last Abdominal Segment; i, h, and 7, and i’, k', and I’, Levers
to move Darts; sh, Sheath; v, Vulva; p, Sting Palpus, or Feeler; b, Barbs. B
and C, Sections through Darts and Sheath, magnified 300 timea—sh, Sheath;
d, Darts; b, Barbs; p, Poison Channel. D, Termination of Dart, magnified 200
times—o, 0, Openings for Poison to escape into Wound.

ANATOMY OF THE BEE. 95

the lancets atc, ¢’, the levers drive them down with the sheath,
and beyond it deeper into the wound. The poison sac (ps)
which is supplied by the poison glands (pg) discharges its con-
tents into the sheath, from which the poison is driven, with
much force, through channels in the lancets and apertures be-
tween their barbs (D. 0, 0,) to the lowest part of the wound,
until (if the sting be not removed at once) the poison sac has
emptied itself. The barbs of the lanccts fasten them into the
object stung ; and, although if left undisturbed the bee is able,
by working it round after the manner of a screw, to withdraw
the sting (as one might withdraw a gimlet), the pain caused
by the injection of the poison generally prompts an immediate
assault upon the offender, who, in her effort to escape, fre-
quently leaves her sting in the flesh, and, attached to it, the
poison sac and gland. These latter have a reflex action, and,
if not removed, may continue to inject poison into the wound
for some time after they have been separated from the bee.

40. Palpi, or Feelers.—Quick as is the bee in her attack, she
will not proceed to sting until she has examined the surface
of the object to be pierced. For this she is provided with the
palpt, or feelers (Fig. 9,A, p, p), which have sensitive hairs and
delicate nerve points, enabling the insect to discover whether
the particular spot selected for assault is capable of being
pierced.

41. Queen’s Sting.—The sting of the queen is longer than
that of the worker, and is curved. As already stated (21), the
mother bee appears to realise the exceeding value of her life
to the colony, and to be unwilling to risk the loss of her sting
by incautious use. Unless in very exceptional circumstances,
it is not used by her as a weapon of offence or defence, and
then only, or chiefly, as against rival queens or other bees
(20). The drone has no sting, the sting being an essentially
female structure—in reality, a highly modified ovipositor, or
egg-laying apparatus.

42. Organs of Drone.—The organs of the drone include two
testes (Fig. 10. A, t) in communication, by means of the two
tubes—vasa deferentia (vd) with two seminal vesicles (vs).
These vesicles discharge into two mucus glands (mg) from
which extends the ductus ejaculatorius (de) at the end of which
is found the organ of generation (0). The spermatozoa (B)
originate in the testes. As they mature, they pass into the
vesicula seminales (vs) and, mingled with mucus from the glands
(mg), proceed continually through the ductus ejaculatorius (de)
into the bean (b) and, in mass, are called the spermatophore.
Coition takes place on the wing (21) when the pressure
of air in the trachez and air vessels (h) assists the abdominél
muscles in extruding the organs. These, by reason of certain
curved rings or ridges (A, 7, and E, r') beneath the bean, may
not be withdrawn during coition; and, with the expulsion of

26 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

Siu

Oo

F POS

Fig. 10.
ORGANS OF DRONE.
(Magnified twelve times.)

A, Organs Removed from Body, but in true Relative Position—t, Testes;
vd, Vas Deferens; vs, Vesicula Seminalis; mg, Mucus Glands; de, Ductus
Ejaculatorius; 9, Termination of Organ; s, Sickle-shaped Scale, beneath which
Spermatophore is formed; ts, Triangular Scale; , Bean; f, Fan-shaped Appen-
dage; r, Ridges; h, Horns; m, Masque of Réaumur, or Hairy Membrane. B,
Spermatozoa developing within Spermatic Tubes of Testes (Magnified 500 times)
—sv, Spermatic Vesicle; n, Nerve Cells. C, Spermatozoa as they arrange them-
selves after removai from the body—a, Coiled form; h, Head; th, Thread. D,
Face View of Appendage f in A—f”, Fan-like Fringe. E. Organs Extruded;
lettering ag A. F, Front View of portion of Bean—s/ Sickle-shaped Scale;
6p, Spermatophore; ts”, Triangular Scale.

ANATOMY OF THE BEE. Q7

the spermatophore (43) the organs are ruptured, and the drone
dies. The queen, having now within her “the potency of the
two sexes,” returns to the hive carrying, as an appendage, part
of the male organs—a sure sign of impregnation.

Fig. 11,
ORGANS OF THE QUEEN, ETC.

A, Abdomen of Queen, under side (magnified eight times)—P, Petiole; 0, 9,
Ovaries; hs, Position filled by Honey Sac; ds, Position through which Digestive
System passes; od, Oviduct; co.d, Common Oviduct; E, Egg passing Oviduct;
8, Spermatheca; i, Intestine; pb, Poison Bag; pg, Poison Gland; st, Sting;
p, Palpi. B, Rudimentary Ovaries of Ordinary Worker—sp, Rudimentary
Spermatheca. OC, Partially developed Ovaries of Laying Worker—sp, Rudimen-
tary Spermatheca.

43. Organs of the Queen.—The organs of the queen include
the ovaries (Fig. 11, O.O.) in which the eggs are developed;
the oviducts (od), the spermatheca (s, and Fig. 12), which
retains the spermatozoa received from the drone and number-
ing, according to Leuckart, the enormous quantity of

28 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

25,000,000 (22); a duct which joins the spermatheca with the
vagina, and which, by opening or closing, permits or prevents
the passing of the spermatozoa when eggs are traversing the
common oviduct (co.d); and the vagina.

44. Parthenogenesis.—In 1845 Dzierzon (80) announced his
discovery of parthenogenesis in bees (22). In 1849 he wrote—

“Tn the copulation of the queen, the ovary is not impregnated, but
this vesicle or seminal receptical (Fig. 12) is penetrated or filled by the
male semen, By this, much, nay all of what was enigmatical is solved,—
especially how the queen can lay fertile eggs in the early spring,
when there are no males in the hive. The supply of semen received
during copulation is sufficient for her whole life. To lay drone-eggs,
according to my experience, requires no fecundation at all.”

Later on he wrote :—

“ All eggs which come to maturity in the two ovaries of a queen-bee
are only of one and the same kind, which, when they are laid without
coming in contact with the male semen, become developed into male
Bees, but, on the contrary, when they are fertilized by male semen,
produce female Bees.”

45. Fertilisation of the Egg.—The queen can, at will,
fertilise the egg as it passes the entrance to the spermatheca,
or can allow it to pass unfertilised: in the former case it will
produce a female bee; in the latter, a male. It follows that
if a queen be mated with a drone of
a different race the workers pro-
duced by the queen will exhibit
characteristics of both parents,
while the drones will partake of the
nature of the queen only. Excep-
tions to this rule may, indeed, occur,
but very infrequently—as where
the drones of a black queen that has
mated with a Ligurian drone have
shown some slight Ligurian charac-
isti Dzierzon and cthers sug-
gested that these might result from
a laying Italian worker, or from the
action of an aura seminalis; but Sie-

Fig. 12. bold proved the existence of seminal
SPERMATHECA. filaments in thirty of fifty-two female
(Magniied forty times.) eggs examined, while in twenty-

a, Space filled by clear fluid; SEVED drone eggs similarly examined
b, Mass of Spermatozoa; ce, he found not one seminal filament.
Epermathecal Duct; dd, Sper- The supply of spermatozoa, decreas-
tiatuzva in activity. ing as the fertilisation of her eggs

proceeds, fails and becomes ex-

ANATOMY OF THE BEE. 29

hausted usually at the end of three years; but, even at the
close of her second year a queen, under the “ forcing ” methods
of modern bee-keeping, ceases to be profitable, in consequence
of the enormous drain upon her resources. (281).

‘* A prolific queen will fay, during her life, 1,500,000 eggs—a number
so vast—that the eggs, lying in contact, end to end, would stretch about
one and three-quarter miles. A good queen is able to furnish to the
cells an average of two eggs per minute for weeks in succession.
Taking the lowest estimate, she then yields the incredible quantity
of twice her own weight daily, or, more accurately, four times, since
at this period more than half her weight consists of eggs.’’— Cheshire.

A queen that has not been mated within twenty-one davs of
her birth usually becomes incapable of impregnation and a
drone-breeder (188).

50 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER VI.
DIFFERENT RACES OF BEES.

46. Black, or Native Bees are so well known that no descrip-
tion of their appearance is necessary here. They are not so
prolific as are some of the other races; but they are hardy,
and adapted to our climate. They begin working and breed-
ing early in the spring. They are excellent comb builders,
their cappings being white and specially attractive in sections
when placed on the market side by side with sections from
foreign bees. They cannot always be relied upon to be docile,
and easily handled. But they have none of the wickedness of
the Syrian (50); they are not inveterate swarmers, like the
Carniolan (48); and they are superior to the Ligurian (47) as
cappers of honey.

47. Italians, or Ligurian Bees belong to North Italy, but are
used and valued by bee-keepers everywhere, and in America
are exceedingly popular. They differ little or nothing from
Black bees in size; but they are lighter in colour, and have
three handsome yellow bands beginning with the first seg-
ment of the abdomen, by which they may be easily recognised.
They are much more prolific than Blacks; are early and late
workers ; and can collect the sweets from Howers upon which
black bees cannot work. They are, however, indifferent comb
builders; are often slow to take to supers; and are very capable
robbers. They are gentle and easy to manage when pure.
But bees from an Italian queen and a Black drone have not
the desirable characteristic of amiability, and are generally
troublesome in the handling.

48. Carniolans are natives of Austria. They differ in
appearance from Black bees, having broad white bands on the
lower portions of the segments of the abdomen. They use
propolis (75) most sparingly, and build beautifully white
combs. They winter well; begin work early in spring; and,
although very gentle, are stout defenders of their homes. The
most amiable of bees, manipulation of their hives can be carried
on with ease and confidence, and on this account they are
very suitable bees for beginners (180). The objection to them
is, that, owing to the exceedingly prolific nature of their

DIFFERENT RACES OF BEES, 31

queens, they are inveterate swarmers when kept in small hives,
and exposed to the sun in hot summers. This, however, is
an objection which will not weigh with those who desire rapid
increase, and who are capable of exercising due control over the
swarming propensity. (216).

49. Cyprians have been introduced into this country from
Cyprus. Their bodies are smaller and more pointed than those
of Black bees, and the three yellow bands are continued under
the abdomen, as thcy are not in the Ligurian race. They are
extremely prolific, and diligent workers; but their comb is
too inferior to justify their use for the production of section
honey. Laying workers (200) are more frequent among them
than among Blacks. Their lavish use of propolis adds much
to the difficulties of managing them; and they are so vindictive
that they have been adopted only in very exceptional cases in
this country.

50. Syrians differ little in appearance from the former. For
queen-rearing purposes they are valuable, because a queenless
colony of Syrians will build a large number of queen cells—
sometimes as many as thirty on one frame (196). It follows
that if eggs or unsealed larve of any race be given to a queen-
less colony of Syrians, the production of queens may be
enormously increased. They are wicked, most difficult to
handle, and are often quite unmanageable.

51. Giant Bees (Apis dorsata) are found in India, Ceylon,
China and Eastwards to Java. They build single combs, five
or six feet long by three or four feet deep, in high trees or
rocks, remaining only two or three weeks in one place, and
travelling sometimes 100 miles to make a new home. They
are exceedingly wicked, often inflicting fatal injuries upon man
and beast, and offering little encouragement to any attempts
at domesticating them.

52. Common East Indian Bees (Apis Indica) are common
in India and from Madagascar to the Malayan Archipelago.
They are small, yellow underneath the abdomen, and not diffi-
cult tomanage. Their production of honey, under the methods
by which, to a limited extent, they are worked in their native
country, does not often exceed fifteen or twenty pounds.

53. Dwarf East Indian Bees (.4pis florea) are the smallest
honey bees known. They are black, with the anterior part of
the abdomen a bright orange. Their combs seldom exceed
eight inches in length by four inches in depth, and the cells
are so diminutive that 100 are contained in a superficial square
inch of comb. Their production of honey is too small to render
their cultivation profitable.

82 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

54. Stingless Bees (Afelipona) are inhabitants of Central
America, and the warm regions of both hemispheres. They
are green in hue, spotted with red, and are smaller than the
common house fly. Their colonies are small, but so numerous
that in some districts these bees are said to exist in “countless
millions.” Their comb is one-sided, horizontal, and very
delicate. They store no surplus, since nectar (if what they
gather can be called nectar) is procurable all the year round in
their country. They are not, strictly speaking, stingless.
They do not sting, but they can bite, and this they do
furiously when molested.

“ All the essential elements of the sting are present, the pointed or
penetrating part being stunted.’’—(Sharp).

55. Sand Bees (4ndrena) are found in this country, occasion-
ally in large numbers. They differ from the honey bee in
many structural points, notably in their much shorter tongue.
The females are always fully developed, so that the “ worker ”
caste does not exist among them. They make their nests by
burrowing in the ground, usually in sandy places. Although
they are “solitary” insects, in the sense of forming no social
communities like those of the honey bees, a large number of
nests are generally found close together, and many individuals
may be seen, in the spring months, flying around their
favourite haunts.

56. Leafcutter Bees (JZfegachile) are long-tongued, like the
honey bee, but they may be distinguished by their broad head,
powerful mandibles, and generally stout build. Like the
Andrene, they have no “ worker” caste. They nest in the ground,
sometimes digging burrows, but more frequently using ready-
made hollows, such as the tunnels of worms. They neatly cut
pieces out of the leaves of plants, and use these to build their
nests, in which they store food for their grubs. The nest
resembles a number of thimbles placed inside one another.
These bees also nest in old trees and walls. They are rarely
found in the North. Their nests have been discovered among
the quilts of bar frame hives; and Mr. M. H. Read has found
them twice in his apiary, and frequently in the keyhole of his
garden-door,

566, Caucasians are natives of the Caucasus, in Russia.
Within the past few years they have been recommended in the
United States by the Department of Agriculture, and testimony
to their exceeding gentleness and prolificness has been given
by many prominent beekeepers. Neither smoke, carbolic, nor
protection 1s necessary when these bees are being manipu-
lated; they show little resentment when roughly treated; their
queens are great layers, and their workers are exceptionally
industrious,

BEE PRODUOTS, ETO, 33

CHAPTER VII.
BEE PRODUCTS, &c.

57. Honey.—It is a common error to suppose that honey is
gathered by bees from flowers. Honey is the product of the
nectar secreted in the nectaries of flowers, and subjected to a
chemical change in the honey sac (38) of the bee; the cane
sugar of the nectar being converted into the grape sugar of
honey by its mixture with the secretion of certain glands in
the insect. Speaking generally, nectar may be said to contain
from 50 per cent. to 80 per cent. of water (59), according to
the flowers from which it is collected and to the state of the
atmosphere as damp or dry. Some flowers—the fuschia, for
example, secrete nectar which has a much smaller percentage
of water. The secretion is nature’s provision for securing the
fertilization of plants by inducing the visits of insects, notably
of the bee, in order that pollen, the fertilising dust, may be
carried from flower to flower (74). It is affected by tempera-
ture, and by the state of the weather. It is lessened by con-
tinued drought, and increased by gentle rain accompanied by
heat. Usually it is greatest in the morning; decreasing in the
afternoon. Every bee-keeper knows what it is to have his bees
idle during days of sunshine, tho’ situated in the midst of
honey-producing plants and flowers, when long absence of rain
and dew has retarded the secretion of nectar.

58. Cathering and Storing Honey.—
When bees visit the flowers, they
suck the nectar by means of the spoon
(32) and groove; and, passing
through the csophagus or gullet, it
enters the honey sac (38). Below the
honey sac is situated the stomach
mouth which the insect can, at will,
_ open to admit the honey to the chyle
stomach as food, or close when the
honey is intended to be stored (38).
y In the latter case the muscles of the
“ honey sac are brought into play, and
the fluid is forced out of the mouth
and deposited in the comb cells. The
existence of the honey sac and
stomach mouth explain various phen-
(Photo by J. G. Digges.) omenain the life of the bee—how, when
swarming, she can carry from the

¢

Fig 13.
BEE ON CLOUYER.

B4 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

hive sufficient honey to serve as food for a considerable time,
and even for the production of wax in her new home (18);
how, in the winter season, she can feed from the contents of
the honey sac during several days without having recourse to
the comb-cells.

59. Water in Honey.—When nectar, thus converted into
honey, has been deposited in the cells, it becomes necessary
to evaporate from it a quantity of water. Dr. Smyth says :—

“In order to complete a pound of sealed honey in their comb-cells
the bees must evaporate at least half a pound, and frequently a pound
of water from the cells, and out of the hive.”—Irish Bee Journal,

This is done by raising the temperature of the water and of the
interior of the hive, and by fanning (14) the moist and heated
air out through the doors. On occasions of extreme humidity
of the atmosphere outside, evaporation within the hive becomes
arrested and the gathering of nectar ceases for atime. When
acell is almost filled with honey, it is sealed with a capping of
wax, and in that condition the honey will keep indefinitely in
a warm, dry place.

60. Honey as Food.—As an article of food, honey is very
valuable. It requires no digestion; is a great heat producer;
a gentle laxative; and a purifier of the blood.

61. Honey Dew.—An unpleasant, dark, rank-flavoured sub-
stance called honey dew, is sometimes gathered by bees, much
to the annoyance of their owner. During a spell of hot, dry
weather, with absence of moisture and rain, this objectionable
deposit may be seen upon the trees, and the bees eagerly
gather it. Its name is due to an erroneous opinion by which
it was described as a dew of honey falling upon the leaves.
Investigation, however, has shown that the substance is a dis-
charge from the bodies of aphides, which suck the sap of
certain trees, and discharge it continuously as a saccharine,
viscous fluid. In the absence of rain to wash it off, it adheres
to the leaves, and is resorted to by both bees and ants. Ants
(368) are particularly fond of it, and may often be seen literally
milking the aphides. It is stated by Lubbock, who made a
special study of the subject, that certain species of ants “farm ”
aphides in their nests, feeding them with the leaves required,
and enjoying the saccharine produce of these “milch cows.”
Honey dew is sometimes produced without any action of
aphides, as an exudation (Miellée) from the leaves.

62. Beeswax.—Beeswax has a specific gravity of between
.960 and .970, and will melt at 144° to 148° Fahr. It
is a natural secretion, produced in a liquid state by the wax

BEE PRODUOTS, ETC. 35

glands in the body of the bee, and moulded, in the shape of
tiny scales, in the wax pockets under the ventral plates (37.
Fig. 8). From these pockets the scales are transferred to the
mouth, to be made flexible previous to being used in
comb building (10). The wax scales are “so thin and light
that one hundred of them hardly weigh as much as a kernel of
wheat.”—-(Dubint), For the secretion of wax, bees require a
temperature of from 90° to g5° Fahr. They feed liberally,
and then form in clusters, remaining inactive in a high
temperature until, after about twenty-four hours, the honey,
converted into wax, appears as described above.

63. Honey used in Wax Production.—Just what quantity of
honey is required by clustering bees for the production of
wax, it is not possible, with our present knowledge, to state
definitely. Opinions upon this subject vary considerably.
Until further discoveries have been made, it may be taken as
a fairly accurate estimate, that, according to the conditions
existing in the hive, from to lbs. to 16 lbs. of honey are con-
sumed by clusters which produce 1 lb. of wax. If honey be
valued at 6d. per lb., and wax at ts. 8d. per lb., it follows that
from 5s. to 8s. worth of honey is used in the manufacture of
1s. 8d. worth of wax, to which must be added the severe strain
upon the bees which wax production imposes, and the cost of
the devotion to that work of so many bees who might be more
profitably occupied elsewhere (73).

64. Paraffin Wax and Ceresin Wax are mineral products,
unsuitable for bee hives. They are sometimes used for the
adulteration of beeswax by manufacturers of foundation, but,
being of a lower specific gravity than that of beeswax, their
presence as adulterants may be easily detected (114).

65. Honey Comb.—The combs of a hive at swarming time
will be found, on examination, to contain four distinct kinds
of cells, viz.—Worker cells; Drone cells; Transition cells; and
Queen cells (183).

66. Worker Cells (Fig. 14, O), in which worker bees are
reared, are about 3” deep, and 5” wide; so that five cells
measure about 1”, and from twenty-seven to twenty-nine go to
the square inch (187).

67. Drone Cells (Fig. 14, F), in which drone bees are reared,
are about 3” deep, and 3” wide; so that four cells measure about
1”, and from sixteen to eighteen go to the square inch (194).

68. Hexagonal Cells.—Both worker and drone cells are six-
sided, or hexagonal—a shape which gives the greatest capacity
and strength with the least expenditure of material and labour

36 THE PRAUYrICAL BEE GUIDE.

(10). If they were built square or triangular they would not
be so adapted to the shape of the bees to be reared in them:
if they were circular, much valuable space would be sacrificed
between the touching circles: being hexagonal they approxi-
mate to the shape of the bees; avoid waste of space; and so
support each other that they can be constructed of the lightest
material, and of exceeding delicacy, for

“Walls so thin, with sister walls combined ;
Weak in themselves, a sure dependence find.”
—Evans.

Fig. 14.-HONEYCOMB.—(Natural size)

A, Queen Cell, from which Queen has hatched, showing lid; B, Queen Cell,
torn open; C, Queen Cell, cut down; D, Drone Grub; E, Drone Cell, partly
sealed; F, Drone Cells, sealed; G, ‘‘ False’? Queen Cell, and beyond—Worker
Vells, sealed, and Bees emerging from cells; H, Old Queen Cell; I, Sealed
Honey; K, Fresh Pollen Masses; L, Cells nearly filled with Pollen; M, Aborted
Queen Cell on face of Comb; O, Eggs and Larve in various conditions.

69. Transitional Cells, irregular in shape,—better called
Intermediate or Accommodation Cells—are constructed to con-
nect worker and drone, or queen, cells.

BEE PRODUCTS, ETO. 37

78. Use of Cells for Storing.—The three kinds of cells—
Worker, Drone and Transitional, may be used for storing honey
and pollen. They slope upwards from the base, thus being

easier to fill, and safer as receptacles for honey than if built
horizontally.

71. Queen Gells (Fig. 14, A, B, C) are built much stronger
than the cells already described. They are made of a mixture
of wax and pollen, the pollen being introduced to render them
porous (196). They are like waxen thimbles, about an inch
long, and tapering downwards (17). Unlike ordinary brood
cells, queen cells are not used a second time, but are cut down
by the bees (Fig. 14, C, H) usually within a few hours of the
birth of the queen.

72. Cappings.—Cells occupied by brood have a porous
capping of wax and pollen; and those which contain honey
are capped with wax.

73. Value of Combs.—The wax employed in the combs of 11
ordinary “standard” frames (97) weighs about 2 lbs. Accord-
ing to the estimate made elsewhere (63), 2 lbs. of wax repre-
sent the consumption of from ios. to 16s. worth of honey:
and if to this be added the value of the time occupied by the
bees in secreting the necessary wax, and in building the combs,
the strain upon their constitutions, and the loss of honey
which, in the season, they might have gathered if not occupicd
otherwise, the value of the combs to the bece-keeper may be
estimated at from £1 to £1 1os., perhaps considerably
higher. Comb is, therefore, a thing too costly to be wasted;
and the more use the bee-keeper can take out of his combs,
and the more economically he can have them built, the more
profitable will his industry be (113). It must, however, be
stated that combs should not be used indefinitely for breeding
purposes, because the portions of cocoons left in the cells by
hatching bees (191) eventually reduce the size of the cells so
appreciably that they become no longer suitable for brood
rearing (190).

74. Pollen.—Pollcn is the fertilizing dust of flowers, and for
bees, an indispensable food. On examination of a typical
flower (Fig. 15, B) it is found to be composed of four whorls,
or sets of organs on the same plane with one another and dis-
tributed in a circle about an axis. These organs are:—(1)
The outer whorl, or calyx (a): (2) the second whorl, or corolla
(b): (3) a whorl of parts alternating with the corolla, and
called the andrecium (c): and (4) the inner whorl, or
gynecium (d). Nos. 1 and 2 are the floral envelopes or cover-
ings. No. 3—the andrecitum—is made up of a series of leaves,
or stamens (A): these are the male organs, and have at their

38 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

summits the anthers (e) which contain the fertilizing dust (f).
No. 4—the gynecium, or pistil (C)—is the female sexual organ,
situated in the centre of the flower, and containing the ovary (9)
and stigma (h). For the production of a perfect seed it is
necessary that the germs of the pistil be fecundated by the
pollen of the stamen. When the pollen grains are ripe they
are shed by the anthers. Some flowers are bisexual, or herma-
phrodite, having both male and female organs, but these are
rarely self-fertilized, nature having provided against it: as,
for example, in the primula, in which occur long stamens and
a pistil with a short style, or short stamens and a pistil with a
long style. Fertilization is commonly effected by insects, and
to encourage their visits, the perfume, nectar, and gay colours

Fig. 15.

FLOWER: STAMEN: AND PISTIL,

A, Stamen, e, Anther; f, Pollen. B, Sketch of Typical Flower, a, Calyx:—
Bepals; b, Corolla:—Petals; c, Andreecium:—Stamens; d, Gynceecium (Piatil) : —
Carpels. C, Pistil, g, Ovary; h, Stigma; i, Style,

of the flowers are developed (57). Bees are among the most
useful workers in this field of nature’s economy. They enter
the flowers (9), gather their loads of pollen, even roll them-
selves in the rich dust, fill with it their baskets (corbicula)(34),
carry home their provender and deposit it in the cells. Thus
the pollen is carried from stamen to pistil, and from flower to
flower, and fruits and flowers become fertilized which, but for
the visits of the insects, would remain barren. Bees have long
been recognised as valuable fellow-labourers with the horti-
culturist ; and many cases are on record in which fruit trees
have ceased to bear, or have borne but indifferently, when bees

BEE PRODUCTS, ETC. $9
had disappeared from the neighbourhood. When pollen arrives
at the hive, it is packed in cells, is often covered with honey,
and is sealed over with wax.

“Having gone to visit the bees of a lady friend living within six
miles of Dublin, we first went to look at her fine peach house. She
pointed out to me how badly the blooms had set on a tree that was
not easy to fertilize, and said that the gardener had been complaining
that the bees had not helped him as much as usual this spring by
visiting and fertilizing the blooms. A look at the hive soon explained
this, all the combs, except the outside ones, being a compact mass of
rotten foul brood, a very few live bees being left in one hive.”’—M. H.
Reap in Irish Bee Journal.

75. Propolis.—Propolis is a resinous, sticky substance,
gathered from pine, horse chestnut, and other trees, and
carried by the bees, as they carry pollen, on their hind legs.
It is used for filling up cracks, to exclude draughts, and to
make the hive watertight. It is applied also, much to the bee-
keeper’s regret, to fasten together the frames, and other parts
of the hive furniture (174). When hives are situated under
high trees, the vibration, caused by the roots as

“Through woods and mountain passes
The winds, like anthems roll,”

is felt at once by the bees, who endeavour to modify it as far as
possible, by fixing their combs and frames in the hive with
propolis (9). Occasionally bees will use propolis to defeat
their natural enemies, or to fix and render harmless unwel-
come intruders. The term, “ Propolis,” signifies “ before the
city’’; the use of the substance in the defence of the hive
having been observed. Huber describes the construction of
barricades of wax and propolis in the hive entrance, to exclude
the Death’s Head Moth (Sphinz Atropos), while giving pas-
sage to the workers. Reaumur observes that a snail having
gained admission to one of his hives, the bees, being unable
to remove it, promptly arrested its progress by fastening it
down with propolis. Maraldi relates a somewhat similar
occurrence, his bees having covered all over with propolis a
large slug which they had been unable to dislodge. It is quite
a common practice with bees in modern hives to attach pieces
of Naphthaline (352) to the floorboard, and even to enclose
them in a case of propolis to overcome the objectionable smell.

75b. Adulteration of Honey.--When honey has been adul-
terated with glucose, the presence of glucose may be recognized
if a little of the mixture be slowly poured into a glass contain-
ing absolute alcohol, and if the alcohol then shows turbid, or
milky, having a gummy substance at the bottom.

40 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE,

PART II.
HIVES AND APPLIANCES.

CHAPTER VIII.
HIVES AND FRAMES.

76. Ancient Hives. Bee-keeping as an industry is ancient.
It is certain that from a very early period a high value has
been set upon honey as an article of food, and that, long
centuries ago, bees were kept for profit in manufactured hives.
Virgil, who wrote B.c. 70, describes the hive in use in his day.
It was constructed of plaited osiers and bark, and was plastered
with mud to make it waterproof. Pliny tells us that when the
spring flowers in the Italian valleys had failed, the bees, in
their hives, were carried at night up the rivers in boats, in
search of better pasturage. In parts of Asia hives of pottery
were used, and were built into the walls of the houses. The
osier hive of Virgil was, probably, somewhat like the old-
fashioned straw skep, with which we in this country are so
familiar.

Fig. 16,
THE SKEP,

HIVES AND FRAMES. 41

77. The Skep (Fig. 16) is made of straw, sometimes worked
on a frame of hazel-rods or cane. It has its uses: but as a
permanent home for bees its defects are too many and serious
to admit of its adoption by anyone who desires to keep bees for
profit, and upon humane principles. It does not permit
proper management. It does not allow that perfect control of
the bees and their work which is essential to success. Although
its cost may not exceed a couple of shillings, it is expensive,
because it precludes the use of foundation (110) which, in the
modern hive, effects so large an economy. It is dangerous,
because, not open to examination by the owner, it may harbour
disease without his knowledge, and may spread infection far
and near (327). And, associated as it is with the hateful
sulphur pit, by which our forefathers, for want of a better
method, obtained the honey harvest by sacrifice of the bees
who gathered it (142), it is not to be encouraged as an adjunct
of modern bec-keeping, except within certain limitations.

78. Uses of Skeps.—Bees
‘abana : crowded in skeps are likely to
give off early swarms, and,
with that object in view,
stocks in skeps may often be
turned to good account.
Skeps are useful also for
carrying swarms (153), and in
the operations of driving (160)
and hiving (234). They may be
used, to some extent, for the
production of surplus honey
in supers (271). For this
purpose the skep is made with
a flat top (Fig. 17) having a
in the centre of the
crown.

79. The Skep giving place to the Moveable-Comb Hive.—But
modern bee-kceping encourages more intelligent management,
and aims at higher success than can be hoped for by the exclu-
sive use of the straw skep-—now, happily, giving place to the
hive with moveable frames (81), which has effected a revolution
in bee-keeping by admitting adequate supervision over the
work of the colony; by facilitating the harvesting of larger
quantities of honey; and by rendering unnecessary, indeed
inexcusable, the destruction of the bees.

80. Genesis of the Moveable-Comb Hive.—Towards the close
of the eighteenth century, Huber (142), the blind Naturalist,
who was born in Geneva in 1750, constructed a hive in shape

Fig. 17.
THE SKEP, FLAT TOP FOR hate
SUPERING.

42 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

like a book, each leaf
containing a comb, and
by this means he was
able to arrive at the dis-
coveries which have
made his name famous.
In 1838, Dzierzon. a
German and the dis-
eee esl Oe DE omen | coverer of partheno-
genesis, 7.e., reproduc-
tion without fecundation
(44), began the use of
hives in which the
combs were attached to
top bars. This was im-
proved upon in 1851 by
Langstroth, “the father
of American apiculture,”
who invented the hive
opening at the top, and
with combs in moveable,
suspended frames.

81. Advantages of the
Moveable-Comb Hive.—
To this invention mod-
ern bee-keeping owes

Fig. 18. the rapid progress it has

THE “0. D. Be” HIVE, made in the past half

century. The moveable

frame gives free access

to all parts of the hive, and admits of the various operations

by which control is exercised over the bees, and their labour

turned to the best account (142). The condition of the colony

may be thoroughly inspected (327); bees and combs may be

changed from one hive to another as required (252); queen

rearing (286) and artificial swarming (222) may be practised;

natural swarming controlled (216); honey extracted withcut

destruction of the combs (276), and such intelligent manage-
ment can be pursued as may produce the best results.

82. The Hive in General Use in Ireland.—The modern
moveable-comb hive in general use in Ireland (Figs. 18
and 19) is made to take the frame which has bcen adopted as
the “standard” frame (97). The external measurements of
hives may vary to any extent; but the internal measurements
of the brood nest, or body box (86), must be such as will with
the utmost accuracy suit the measurements of the frame to be

HIVES AND FRAMES, 43

used, and must. pro-
vide such bee space
(83) as careful observa-
“ : tion of the natural
ar instincts of the bees
eer : has shown to be desir-
able. This appears to
be too obvious to re-
quire explanation. Yet
some unfortunate mis-
takes have been made
by inexperienced _ per-
sons in manufacturing
hives to a given exter-
nal measurement, only
to find that the frames
could not be worked in
them.

83. Internal measure-
ments. — The internal
measurements of a mod-
ern hive are too exact
to admit of slipshod
carpentery. A 1-16th of
an inch, one way or an-
other, may make or mar
a hive; and an inaccu-

Fig. 19. racy of a nature so trifl-

THE “ FEDERATION” HIVE. ing that it would be

quite inconsiderable in

the case of a piano or of a wooden leg, may render a hive
utterly useless for the keeping of bees upon modern principles.
A moveable-comb hive is such only when its combs are move-
able; and it is found that if the spaces between the ends of
the frames (97) and the inner walls of the body box (86) are
less than 1-inch, the bees, being unable to pass, will fasten the
frames to the body box with propolis, while if the spaces are
more than 3-inch, the bees will build brace comb there. There
is, therefore, a safe space from }-inch to 2-inch, and if this be
increased or diminished the frames are liable to be fastened to
the body box, in which case manipulations of the hive will
involve unnecessary exasperation of both the bees and their
keeper. As to the respective advantages of the }-inch and the
3-inch spaces, some difference of opinion exists among experi-
enced bee-keepers. All, however, agree that where bees are
found to respect the 2-inch space, that space offers very
important advantages in the greater facility with which frames

The Federation Hive

44 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

may be moved, and the minimising of the risk of crushing
bees, and even of killing queens, during manipulations (182).
Between the bottom bars of the frames and the floor board (85)
a space of 3-inch should be left. It follows from what has been
said that accuracy in the making of hives is essential. If it
be desired to manufacture hives at home, one good hive, as a
pattern, should be procured, and the measurements of that
hive, so far as the internal dimensions are concerned, should
be followed with the utmost exactness. The timber should
be of good quality and thoroughly seasoned. American
seasoned pine is largely used in the manufacture of the best
hives. All wooden hives require to be kept well painted to
protect the timber from the effects of the weather.

84. The “ Federa-
—D tion” Hive (Figs. 19
and 20) consists of
four parts, viz. :—
Floor board and Legs
(A); Body box or
Brood chamber (B)3
Lift or “Riser” (C),
and Roof (D).

85. The Floor
Board (Fig. 20, A) is
made of two pieces
of timber (a, a) 163"
11” x 2", rabbeted 3"
and nailed or screwed
to two rails (b) 233!
x 2” x 2") to which
rails the legs (c¢) 83"
x 3” x 2", are fast-
ened. The rails are
chamfered to 203” at
the front ends, and on
the chamfers is nailed
the alighting board

Fig. 20 (d), 165" x 43" x 3M;
THE “FEDERATION” HIVE. the upper edge cham-
(fhe Parts Separated.) - fered to an angle of

60°; and the lower
edge rabbeted 3” x 3” (e) to form a rest fora hiving board (233).
In the floor board a round hole 2” in diamcter is cut as a
ventilator (v and Fig. 21), and is covered on the upper side with
perforated zinc, the uncer side having a piece of wood 7” x 3" x
2” screwed to the floor board, so that it can be revolved to open
or close the ventilator at will (91. 218. Fig. 111.)

HIVES AND FRAMES, 45

86. The Body Box (Fig. 20, B) measures, internally, 18” in
length, 17” in width and oz” in depth. This is sufficiently
large to take eleven frames and onc
dummy (93). The sides (h) are 193"
x of” x 3”, the front (7) is 173” x 88"
x g", and the back, 173” x oh” x 3",
rabbeted 3” x 3” at the bottom to rest
on and overlap the floor board.
These are dovetailed, and are nailed
together flush on the upper edges.
If put together with a double rabbet
FLOOR-BOARD VENTILATOR, Tailed, the above measurements
; must, of course, be altered accord-
ingly. The front and back have two grooves running
from top to bottom, 2” wide x 3” deep, beginning 13” from
the ends. Two inner walls, 183” x 83” x 2”, are fitted into
the grooves and are chamfcred outwards on the upper
edges to carry the frames (Figs. 22, 39,): they are nailed
3” below the top of the body box, so that when the body box
is placed in position upon the floor board the sides and back
overlap the floor board, and the front, being only 83” deep,
leaves a space of 3” between it and the floor board as an
entrance for the bees. The inner walls heing }” below the level
of the sides and back, and 3” distant from
the sides, the frames (97), when in position,
are level with the top of the body box, and
are prevented by the hive sides from moving
laterally (267). It will be seen that the body
box measures internally when complete 18”
x 143” x 83”. This leaves a space of 3” be-
tween the frame ends and the inner walls of
the body box, and a space of 3” between the
bottoms of the frames and the floor board.
Four slips, 173” x 3” x 3”, are nailed between
the tops and bottoms of the inner walls and Fig. 22.
the hive sides, and a space of 3” is left be- CHAMFERED
tween the upper slips and the bottoms of the INNER WALL.
frame shoulders. The spaces between the inner walls and the
hive sides are sometimes filled with cork dust, chaff or sawdust,
to preserve the heat of the brood chamber. The front (7) has
either a 3” groove in the centre of the bottom, or an arrange-
ment in the porch in which run two doors (x) 8” x 3” x7" so
that the entrance may be reduced, or enlarged, or closed as
required. Above the doors a porch (f) is provided to keep off
rain from the entrance. (See also 91, page 48.)

87. The Lift or Riser (Fig. 20, C) measures internally 20”
long, 18” wide, and 12" deep, and is made of two pieces 203” x 12"
x 2”, and two pieces 183” x 12” x 3” dovetailed together. Four

46 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

pieces, 3” x 3”, are screwed to the insides, 3” from the
bottom. When in position the lift overlaps the body box, and
in winter it is reversed and telescoped over the body box, thus
providing additional walls, and assisting to preserve the heat
of the brood chamber. The lift, in summer, serves to enclose
the supers (99), and allows sufficient space for packing round
them. When the lift is reversed for winter, the porch is re-
moved from the body box, and is fastened to the lift, in a
corresponding position (378 and Fig. 116, page 207).

88. The Roof (Fig. 20, D) measures internally 193” long x 183!
wide x 54” deep in front, and 43” deep at the back. It is made
of two pieces, 218” x 53” running to 43” x 3” for the sides;
one piece, 198” x 53” x 2", for the front; and one piece, 19%"
x 42" < 2", for the back. The front and back are rabbeted 3”
to overlap the lift. On these are nailed two pieces, 23” x 103” x
3", which are covered with zinc, thus making the roof perfectly
rain and snow proof. The roof slopes to the back to throw
off rain. It makes a convenient table for the smoker, and other
appliances, when neighbouring hives are being manipulated.
When in position the roof overlaps the lift. Two holes, 13” in
diameter, are cut in the gables; the front hole having two
escape cones (/) fitted to it, to permit the exit of bees which
otherwise might be imprisoned, and the back hole being
covered inside with perforated zinc. These holes act as ventila-
tors, and the cones are somc'imes used for the purpose
of clearing bees from
supers (273). Roofs are
also made A-shape (Fig.
23). In this case the
front, back and_ sides
are the same length as
the roof described above.
Four pieces, 24§” x 63"
x §", feathered to 2",

ig. 23. form the cover, over-

THE “A” ROOF, lapping each other 1”;

and a ridge board, 248”

x 2" x 14”, cut out,%”, is fitted on the top. The objection to

such roofs hes in their tendency to open at the joints, and to
admit damp. ‘hey should be kept wel! painted. (See 91.)

69. The “W.B.G.” Hive (Fig. 24).—This hive, which is so
popular in England, consists of the following separate parts,
as illustrated:—Stand; floorboard; body box (A), to take 10
standard frames and a division board; a 9” cover (B), with
porch and doors, to enclose the body-box, leaving rcom for

packing; super (C), to take 10 shallow frames and a division

HIVES AND FRAMES, 47

board; two 6!
covers (D) to en-
close supers; a 3”
eke (E) to be used
under the _ body-
box for wintering,
or under a shal-
low frame super
to accommodate
standard frames;
roof (F) with a 3”
™, lift attached, and

'| fitted with cone
escapes. The hive
was designed by
the late Mr. W. B.
Carr.

90. Observatory
Hive. — The
“Brice” Observa-
tory Hive (Fig.
25) takes one
frame below, and
four sections or
Vig. 24. THE“ W.B.C,” HIVE. one shallow frame
above. The sides
are double-glazed,
and are fitted with
baize-covered
shutters. A feed-
ing arrangement
is supplied at the
side. The floor is
round, and can be
revolved at will to
permit dead bees
to drop into a
receptacle under-
neath. There are
ventilators with
shutters which
work on_ pivots,
an exit for the
bees, and a strong
strap with which
to carry the hive.
Such observatory
hives can be had

Fig 25 ‘‘BRICE” OBSERVATORY HIVE.

48 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

to hold two “standard” frames and six sections. They are
very suitable for use at exhibitions and shows; and are most
useful to those who desire to study the hive-labours of the bee.

91. “I. B. A. 1909’ Hive.—In 1909, the committee of the
Irish Beekeepers’ Association adopted specifications for an
improved hive, which were published in full in the Irish Bee
Journal for June and July of that year. The Froor Boarp
of this hive is made level, so that the hive body may be moved
back to admit a feeder on the “Alexander” principle (123);
the “J.G.D.” ventilator (Illusn. p. 197, and Fig. 111, p. 198) is
4" x 8", is covered with perforated zinc, and has a graduated
sliding door underneath, working from the back of the hive;
the rabbet of the alighting board (85) is increased to 2”, in
order to provide better support for a hiving board. The Hive
Bopy bas inner walls of 9”, and outer walls of to” (except the

Fig 26. Fig 27.
THE “1.B.A. 1909” HIVE.
front, which is 93”, so as not to overlap the floor board), and
measures 19” x 224”, which accommodates 13 frames and a
dummy, while the extra width facilitates manipulation with
the lift (87) in position, and permits better packing of supers
(266) to preserve warmth; a slip at each side, to stop the ends
of the frames, reduces the inside measurement there to 17";
a slip, %” deep and ,," thick at bottom bevelled to 3” thick at
top, is attached to the upper inside front, leaving 3” space
between each end of the slip and the opposite edge of the frame
shoulder, so that the usually neglected outer edge of the front
comb may be worked out by the bees, while the passing up of
bees between the front of the lift and the super is prevented.
The Doors (Fig. 26) are supported by brass screws working
in 73" slots, s9 that they can neither jam nor drop out. An

HIVES AND FRAMES. 49

ALTERNATIVE Entrance (Fig. 27) has been approved,
12” x 3”, cut out of the floor board 3}” from the front,
a cut of 13” x 2” being taken from the floor board
to admit the doors; no porch is required for this entrance; the
doors cannot drop out; in case of robbing, the carbolic cloth
treatment (310), permitting entrance at one side only, can be
more easily applied; having no projecting porch or alighting
board, the hive can be more safely conveyed by rail, or other-
wise. ‘The Dummy (93) has its top bar projecting 4" inwards,
so that the side of the comb next the Dummy may be properly
worked out by the bees. The Lirt is 11” deep, made of 11”
timber, }” thick front and back, and 3” thick for the sides, if
nailed, or 3” thick front and back, if dovetailed; the inside
slips rest evenly on the four sides of the body-box, and so that
the lift, when inverted, does not rest upon the porch, and the
way 13 barred against ants, earwigs and other intruders. The
Roor is flat, 6” in front sloping to 5” at back (including the
overlap), is made of timber of the same scantling as the lift,
is covered with zinc turned underneath, grooves under the four
overlaps preventing water running backwards; the projection
is 13” front and back, and 3” at the sides; double cones are
fitted in the roof front, in 13” hole chamfered on the inside to
permit the inner cone to fit home to its flange—an important
detail when cones are being used as bee escapes (273). The
nails used are “ non-rusting,” and the entire hive is put together
with white lead.

92. The “Hibernian” Hive.—This hive, as to the body box,
is made on the lines of the “ C.D.B.” hive, with a porch extend-
ing across the entire width of the front. The lift is 11” deep,
and telescopes over the body box. The roof is flat, and
zinc-covered. The hive takes cleven frames and three section
crates, and is dovetailed throughout.

93. The Dummy or Division Board Now, |
(Fig. 28) is made to fit the body-box (86).

It consists of a piece, 148” x 8}” x 3",

Fig. 28. ENAMEL CLOTH, FOR
DIVISION BOARD, OR DUMMY. END OF DUMMY.

with a top bar of 16” x 3” x 3”, to run on the chamfered tops

of the inner walls. It is, therefore, level with the tops of the

frames. Two plinths, 83” x 13” x §”, are nailed to the back
ba

50 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

to prevent warping. The Dummy is 3” less than the width of
the body-box, and the ends are fitted with two slips of enamel
cloth, 13” wide, to fill the spaces, and to conserve heat (Fig.
29). The enamel cloth may be folded, and fastened between
the plinths and the Dummy. The Dummy is less hkely to be
fastened at the ends by propolis when enamel cloth is used.

94, Use of the Dummy.—Dummies are used for enlarging or
contracting the brood nest as required (236). By their means
the hive can be adjusted to the size of the colony, and frames
can be removed and replaced with greater ease to the manipu-
lator and with greater safety to the bees (182).

95.“Federation”
Dummy. Dummies
can also be used for
ventilating the brood
nest during very warm
weather —a__ necessary
provision when it is
desired to control the

=i swarming propensity
Fig. 30. (218), and also for feed-
“ FEDERATION” DUMMY. ing, comb-cleaning, and

other purposes (278).
To supply this want, the “ Federation’? Dummy (Fig. 30) has
been devised. It has a piece, 10)” x 43”, cut from the bottom.
The vacancy may be filled with perforated zinc, or excluder
zinc (109) as required. The plinths are rabbeted, and a slide,
113” x 5”, with ends rabbeted to correspond with grooves in
the plinths, slides between the latter, and can be raised, held
at any point, and Jowered as desired.

“Tt is most ingenious; and a very valuable addition to bee ap-
pliances. How many times I could not tell, that I have met with a
comb so bad that I have taken it out of the hive, notwithstanding the
fact that there were quite 100 worker brood in it; because, had I left
it in till they were hatched the queen would have more eggs deposited
in it. But with such a Dummy it would only need to place the faulty
frame behind and raise the slide, and remove the frame when the
brood was hatched out. For back feeding and ventilation it is also
of use. But most of all it is of use when treating a foul broody stock.
When it is desired to remove frames containing some diseased cells,
the brood frames can be piaced behind this dummy, and the queen
given two or three frames of foundation in front, and in 21 days the
diseased frames can be removed.’’—TurLoucH B. O’Bryen, in the Jrish
Bee Journal. (See Illus. p. 197,

96. Sheet and Quilts are required upon the frames or supers
to preserve heat; to prevent draught; and to keep the bees

HIVES AND FRAMES, 61

from ascending into the roof. The sheet is made of bed tick-
ing or unbleached calico. The quilts should bé of felt, carpet,
or other warm material. The sheet and quilts should be large
enough to cover the interior of the body-box when they are
placed upon the frames. From the sheet a circular piece may

e all but cut out from the centre, so that it can be turned back
when feeding is in progress (119) to give the bees access to
the feeder; at other times it can be restored to its original
position. ‘The sheet, lying as it does upon the frames, should
not be made of woollen material, because bees are apt to catch
their claws (34) in such stuff, and that irritates them. The
sheet will le flat upon the frames if put on damp in the first
instance. In summer, a sheet of American cloth, enamelled
side down, may with advantage be used instcad of a sheet of
ticking; but at other seasons it is advisable that the covering
should be of porous material to permit evaporation of the
moisture of the hive. Straw mats or chaff cushions are some-

Fig. 31.
THE “STANDARD” FRAME.

times used on the quilts. In winter, it is useful to cover the
brood-nest and quilts with an empty crate or other bottomless
box, having a piece of canvas or calico tacked underneath, and
filled with cork-dust, chaff, or other warm material (378).

97. Frames.—The frame which is here described has been,
for some years, recognised in this country as the “standard ”
frame (Fig. 31). It is made for use in a hive, the measure-
ments of which have been given above, and in accordance
with the known instincts of bees, as applied to the building of
their combs. We observe that worker comb, 7.e., comb in which
worker bees are reared, is 3” thick; the frame is therefore made
2" wide. The spaces between sealed brood combs are about 3”
to 8"; the frame is therefore intended to provide a §” space
between the combs. This is effected by shoulders on the top
bars of the frames, or by the use of “metal ends,” by which,

52 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

when the frames are pressed together in the hive, the neces-
sary space is provided. The frame measures 14” long x 8}"
deep. Thetop bar is 17” long x 3” thick; the side bars are 8}”
long x 3" thick; and the bottom bar is 14” long x 3" thick;
the width of all being, as already stated, 3”. The four pieces
are made to dovetail into one another, and are usually sold
in the flat. When put together they should be fastencd at the
corners with four tacks or fine wire nails. Underneath the top
bar are two grooves, the centre groove to hold an edge of a
sheet of foundation (117), and the side groove to take a thin
wedge supplied with the frame, and by which the foundation
is held in the centre groove. Frames are now sold at prices
so low that it is not advisable for bee-keepers to manufacture
frames for themselves. It is necessary that the frame be put
together perfectly square. There are also in use frames
having a saw-cut along and through the top bar, into which
the sheet of foundation is fastened (117), and frames with
plain top bars to which the foundation is attached. by melted
wax (117).

98. Various Sizes cf Frames.—Frames are used of larger size
for the brood nest by some bee-keepers, and it is claimed for
the larger frames that they give better results. The practice
generally in this country is to use the “standard” frame, as
described. It is of importance that, whatever size be adopted,
it should be uniformly used in the apiary, because there is a
decided advantage in being able to interchange frames. In
America the popular frame is larger than our standard frame,
and many bee-keepers at home hold that our standard should
be enlarged. The Langstroth frame, in use in America, has
the following dimensions:—Top bar, 193” long x 8” thick;
side bars, 83” long x 7%" thick; bottom bar, 163” long x 3”
thick; the width of all the bars being 3”. The “Simplicity ”
frame, which is described as the “ Standard frame of America,”
has the top bar 19g” long; side bars 93”; and bottom bar 178".
Super, or “Shallow” frames, for use in extracting supers
(108) are in very general use. They differ from the standard
frame in being only 53” deep, the super being 6” deep. It is
claimed for them that they are more readily taken to by the bees
in supers than are standard frames, as they increase the
accommodation above the brood nest more gradually; but it is
an objection to them that they are not interchangeable with
standard frames.

98b. The “ Claustral' Detention Chamber.—This appliance,
which was illustrated and described in the Irish Bee Journal for
October and November, 1ygo6, was devised by M. lAbbé
Gouttefangeas, whose book, “ Ruche Claustrante et Méthode

‘NOATG ‘ISVAMIUG 'ATAAV SAUVW “LS (GHaSOID) SHAIH TVULSOVIO

“DULNOL IG YS} (2y) wotur

aq

FRAMES.

AND

HIVES

52c THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

Claustrale,” appeared in the preceding year. The chamber (as
shown p. 52B) may be attached to, or may form part of any
hive. It is closed by the alighting board which is hinged for
the purpose and made to fit perfectly light-proof, forming the
dark ante-chamber, or cloister. Two zinc aerating tubes, 1” in
diameter and two feet long, with revolving hoods on top and
air holes within the chamber, provide sufficient ventilation.
The bees, shut in from light and liberty, may be safely con-
fined in winter (379), or during manipulation of other stocks,
or when stocks are being moved from place to place (158);
bees in nuclei can be retained (290), robbing can be effectually
dealt with (310), and the danger of spring or autumn dwindl-
ing can be reduced (377).

APPLIANCES FOR SUPERING. 53

CHAPTER IX.

APPLIANCES FOR SUPERING.

99. Supering.—The term “supering” is applied to the use
of sections and frames above the brood nest, in order to obtain

re surplus honey (255) of a marketable
quality, and free from the mixtures of
larval remains and pollen which used
to characterise the honey offered for
sale before modern hbee-keeping intro-
duced better methods.

100. The Section (Fig. 32) is a square
case of bass wood, 43” x 43" x 2" x 4".
It is sold flat, in one piece, dovetailed
at the ends, and with three V-shaped

Fig. 32. cuts across the wood (Fig. 33) to permit

THE SECTION. the folding of the section. Bee-ways

are provided by reducing the width of

the wood to 18”, so that when the sections are pressed together
in the crate (103) the bees can pass in and out of them.

|

:
AU
7

||

pare

(a) FOUR-WAY SECTION; (6) SPLIT-TOP SECTION; (c) THREE SPLIT
SECTION.

101. Sections of various kinds are now supplied, viz.—Two
bee-way which have spaces provided top and bottom; four bee-
way (Figs. 32 and 33, a, b,c) which allow spaces on all the sides;
ordinary—not split; split top (b) which have a cut along the
centre of the top to grip the foundation (110) when it is in-

k

54 THe PRACTICAL BERK GUIDE.

serted; three-split (¢) with the cut carried through the top and
both sides, which secures the foundation on three sides and
allows three sections to be fitted with foundation at one opera-
tion (258); and four-split, which are supplied in two pieces.
The latter are not much used in this country. Sections, of the
size indicated ahove, hold, when filled, one pound of comb
honey, and are those for which the public seem to have a pre-
ference. It is desirable to have the sections so split that the
dovetail comes on the top when the section is in position, for
this minimises the risk of opening the section when removing
it from its crate. “ Tall” sections, measuring 5” x 43” x 18",
and holding one pound of comb honey, and sections to hold
two pounds, are on the market, but they have not come into
general use. The objections advanced against the “tall” one
pound section are, that it needs a deeper crate; requires
foundation of a special size; is extravagant, requiring more
foundation than the smaller section; and that the mid rib of
the comb is thicker, in proportion, than in the 43” x 43” section,
and therefore not so likely to be unobserved by the eater (112).

Fig. 34
(2) SHORT SEPARATOR. (b) LONG SLOTTED SEPARATOR FOR 4 BEE-WAY
SECTIONS.

102. The Separator is a very thin sheet of wood, zinc, or tin,
used between the rows of sections to secure even surfaces to
the combs, and to prevent the bees from drawing out the cells
beyond the edge of the sections. Short separators (Fig. 34, a)
are 43" x 43" x 2", 4.e., square with the sections. Long
separators (Fig. 34, b) are 123” x 42” xp", covering three
sections. Bee-ways are cut out to permit the bees to pass
freely from one section to another. The long separators are
easier to handle, and those made of zinc or tin will, with
ordinary care, last for many years. Wooden separators, being
so thin, require careful handling to avoid breakages.

103. The Section Crate, or Rack (Fig. 35), is a bottomless box
constructed to hold twenty-one 4}” x 43” sections, a follower
(106), and springs or wedges. It is made of two pieces 17” x 43”
x €", and two 148” x 43” x 8" dovetailed together. Its internal

APPLIANCES FOR SUPERING. 55

Measurements are, therefore, 153” x 129” x 43”. The 4” extra
in depth is intended to allow for shrinkage, for it is of great
importance that the crate, when in use, should not be in the
least degree shallower than the sections; otherwise, when
crates are tiered up on the hives (269), the weight resting upon
the lower sections tends to depress the laths on which they
stand, and to destroy the bee space, thus leading to serious
mischief (83). Underneath, a frame of 2” laths is placed.

Fig. 35.
SECTION CRATE.

These carry the sections and separators, and when the crate is
placed upon the frames, the laths provide the necessary bee
space between the frames and the sections. It follows that if
the laths are less than 3” or more than 3” thick, the bees will
fasten the sections to the tops of the frames, and serious
difficulty will arise when it becomes necessary to remove the
crate (269). Crates are sometimes fitted with tin or zinc bars
instead of laths, to bear the sections. These, however, are so
easily put out of shape, or
“dinged,” that they can be
successful only with very
careful handling.

104. The Divisional Crate
(Fig. 36) consists of three
single crates, each holding
seven sections. It is used
towards the close of the honey
flow, to secure the perfecting
of unfinished sections, when
aa the bees would not have time

s)

Fig. K
: or honey to fill a larger
DIVISIONAL CRATE. number (269).

56 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

105. Observatory Crates
(Fig. 37) are constructed so as
to hold sections, separators,
and a glass follower, with or
without springs. A door is
made in the end of the crate,
and when it is opened the
sections can be seen, and an
opinion can be formed as to
the state of the work in the
crate.

Fig. 37. ;
OBSERVATORY CRATE. 106. The Follower is a
piece of timber 123” x 43” x
2”, and for the Divisional
Crate, 43” x 43” x 3". It is inserted in the crate immediately
after the last row of sections to press them together. It is
kept in its place by springs or wedges (Figs. 35 and 36).

107. The Hanging Crate, or section frame (Fig. 38) is used
for holding six sections in the body box or super box. Separa-
tors are attached to the frame on both sides to prevent the

Fig. 38.
HANGING CRATE.

drawing out of the cells beyond the width of the sections.
These crates are used early in the season, near the brood nest,
to secure “bait” sections for the first crates, so as to induce
the bees to occupy the latter (266). Towards the close of the
season, unfinished sections, taken from the upper crates, may
be given bclow inthese frames, to be completed (269).

APPLIANCES FOR SUPERING. 57

108. The Super Box
(Fig. 39) is used for
holding frames above
the body box, or
brood chamber. It
is a bottomless box,
the same width in-
ternally as the body
box, but varying in
length according to
the number, and in
depth according to
the depth of the
frames to be used in
it. If for standard
frames (97) it should
be 9” deep; if for

Fic. 39. shallow frames (98),

SUPER BOX. of 53" depth, it

should be 6” deep.

The sides, to carry the frames, are chamfcred in the same way

as are the inner walls of the brood chamber (86) and are 3”

shallower than the ends. Two pieces, 2” x §”, rabbeted 1” x 1",

are nailed, one on each side, their upper edges being level

with the tops of the ends of the box. These pieces enclose the

ends of the top bars of the frames, preventing them from shift-
ing; they conserve the heat, and are useful also as handles.

109. The Excluder (Fig.
40) is used to prevent the
queen from reaching, and
depositing eggs in the sec-
tions or frames. placed
above the brood chamber,
and for shutting off the
queen and drones from any
part of the hive in which
their presence is not de-
sired. (95). It is a sheet of
zinc large enough to cover
the tops of the frames,
when used to exclude from

‘ : the upper storey, and per-

Fie. 40 forated with holes which

EXCLUDER. permit worker bees to pass,

but exclude the queen and

drones. In practice it is found to offer some obstruction to the
workers, and it is rapidly falling into disuse among bee-kecpers
who work for section honey, But it has still its admirers among

58 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

experienced apiarists, who claim that the advantage of having
the sections protected from the queen’s attentions, more than
compensates for any possible obstruction to the workers (268).
Where super boxcs (108) with frames are employed for extract-
ing purposes, an excluder below the super box is generally
used. It is important to arrange the excluder with its open-
ings running across, and not parallel with, the frames, thus
giving the bees freer access to the supers. New excluders
may be rubbed with emery cloth, to remove the rough edges
of the openings.

COMB FOUNDATION. 59

CHAPTER X.
COMB FOUNDATION.

110. Use of Foundation.—No less important than the intro-
duction of the moveable frame, the invention of foundation
(Fig. 41) marked a distinct advance in the methods of practical
bee-keeping ; simplified the management of frame hives; and
effected a substantial economy in the expenses of working.
It has already been pointed out that the great advantage of the
modern moveable-comb hive depends upon its frames, in use,
being really moveable. If bees are placed in hives fitted with
empty frames, they will build their combs in the frames, but
at such angles, and in such manner as frequently to fasten the
frames together and to render
them immoveable in the hive,
thus defeating the object in view.
ma If strips of wax, as “ starters,” be
fixed below the top bars of the
| frames, the bees will begin their
f combs at the starters, but will
{sometimes build them so irregu-

larly that, here and there, comb

will be joined to comb, and only
a few, if any of the combs will be
perfectly even and moveable. In
Fig. 41. both cases there will be con-

COMB FOUNDATION. structed so large a proportion of

i drone cells that the drones reared
in such cells may be sufficiently numerous to consume the
surplus honey which it is the aim of the bec-keeper to secure
for himself (195). To obviate those difficulties; to enable the
bee-keeper to exercise complete control over the work in the
hive; and to constitute apiculture as a rcmunerative occupa-
tion, it was necessary that some means should be devised to
compel the bees (1) to build straight, separate combs, hanging
evenly and parallel, each within its own frame; (2) to construct
such cells, worker or drone, and in such proportion, as the
owner may desire; and (3) to apply to the manufacture of
new combs, wax which had been used for the same purpose
again and again, with “cappings ” (72) and odd scraps which,

60 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

otherwise, might be wasted or sold below their real value,
thus preventing an extravagant consumption of honey for the
secretion of wax, and an extravagant waste of time on the part
of the bees during the processes of wax secretion and comb
building. (73).

111. Invention of Foundation.—The application by Lang-
stroth, in 1851, of the moveable frame principle (80) made the
construction of suitable combs more than ever necessary; and,
six years later (1857), Mehring, a German, of Frankenthal,
produced a sheet of wax on which the shape of cells was
stamped, and which was to serve as a “ foundation ” for the bees
to build upon. Improvements upon Mehring’s invention were
designed to form upon the foundation the beginnings of the
cell walls; and, in 1876, A. I. Root, of Medina, Ohio, U.S.A.,
had constructed a roller mill with embossed cylinders capable
of turning out foundation in continuous sheets, and with the
formation of the cells, as it is now produced. E. B. Weed
subscquently devised the rolls which impress the foundation
that is called by his name.
These rolls are faced with
type heads, and give abso-
lute similarity throughout
the sheets.

112. Varieties of Founda-
tion.—Foundation is now
supplied of various sizes,
both of sheets and cells,
and of various thicknesses.

Ee Be gee 2 ithe, «= Medium brood,” and
“Thin brood” (“Weed”),

Fig. 42. in shects to fit the standard

SUPER FOUNDATION. frame, have eight sheets

and eleven sheets respect-
ively to the pound weight, and are made both with worker
cells and drone cells. “Thin super” (Fig. 42), and “ Extra
thin super ” (“ Weed ”), in sheets to fill three sections each, have
twenty-eight to thirty-two and thirty to thirty-six sheets
respectively to the pound weight. Brood foundation is used
in frames in the brood nest and super box. Super foundation
is used in sections, and is made thin enough to avoid, as far
as possible, the unpleasantness of a heavy mid-rib in comb
which is intended to be eaten. (101).

113. Advantages of Foundation.—The advantages sccured
to bee-keepers by the use of foundation are many:—(1) When
whole sheets are used in frames and sections, the combs built
upon them are perfectly straight, so that they can be moved
about in the hive (110) and transferred from hive to hive, or

COMB FOUNDATION. 61

from crate tocrateasrequired. (2) The combs built upon worker
foundation are composed generally of worker cells, so that by
the employment of this kind of foundation, the rearing of
drones can be limited (195), which is always a useful power in
the hands of the bee-keeper. (3) All the wax produced; all
old combs, scraps, and cappings removed for extracting pur-
poses may be given back to the bees, in the shape of founda-
tion, thus effecting a very considerable economy both of wax
and time. For example—Eleven sheets of brood foundation
to fill the eleven frames of a standard hive, and to supply
sufficient wax for the construction of the combs, may be pur-
chased for, say, 3s. 6d.; but it is calculated that to manufacture
eleven such combs without the aid of foundation, about 13s.
worth of honey may be consumed by the bees (73). If now
we estimate the loss of honey left ungathered by the bees while
secreting wax and building the bases of the cells, in the season,
at.10s. to £1 we find that a supply of 3s. 6d. worth of foundation
will not only greatly expedite the labours of the bees and
reduce the tax upon their strength imposed by the secreting of
wax, but will also effect a saving of from £1 os. od. to
£1 tos. od. per hive :—

&£s.d.
Honey consumed in the secreting of 2 lbs. of
wax to form 11 combs, say 13 lbs. honey to
the 1 lb. wax = 26 lbs. honey at, say, 6d.
perlbs ses Shs noe oe 2 0130
Honey left ungathered by wax-sccreting and
building bees during partia] construction of
11 combs, say 41 lbs. at 6d. per lb. oe 1 0 6
113 6

Cost of 11 sheets brood foundation, say nae o 3 «6
Estimated saving per hive... Zl 10 oO

Allowing for any over-estimation, if there be such, in the
above calculation, there yet remains sufficient margin to point
the great desirability, from a pecuniary point of vicw, of a
generous use of foundation in the hives, and for its use in full
sheets in both frames and sections.

114. Adulteration.—It should be stated here that foundation,
in common with so many other articles of commerce, has not
escaped the attention of the adulterator; and that it is
very necessary to see that the foundation used in the hive is
pure. That which is adulterated with paraffin wax, or with
ordinary grease or fat, will often be refused by the bees, or if
built upon, will lack the strength to endure the heat of the

62 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

hive in summer, ana will stretch and break down, in either case
imposing much trouble and loss upon the bee-keeper. Founda-
tion may be tested for adulteration with tallow, by the smell
when broken; and for adulteration with mineral wax, by chew-
ing for a few minutes, when if it be pure, it will crumble in
the mouth, and if adulterated with paraffin or ceresin (64), will
adhere in mass, like chewing gum. This test is, however, not
always reliable, and some more accurate test is necessary to
enable every bee-keeper to prove for himself the quality of the
foundation which he buys. If a tumbler, wine glass, or wide-
mouthed bottle be half filled with water, and a small piece of pure
wax, such as may generally be found somewhere in a hive, be
dropped into the water, it will float, because the specific gravity
of the wax (960-970) is less than the specific gravity of the
water (1,000). If now a small quantity of alcohol be slowly
poured into the vessel until the piece of wax no longer floats,
but just sinks to the bottom, and no more alcohol be added than
that which is just sufficient to permit the wax to descend from
the surface, then the water will have been brought to the same
specific gravity as that of pure wax. But wax that is adultcrated
with paraffin or ceresin is of lighter specific gravity than that
of pure beeswax, and if dropped into the vessel it will float
where pure beeswax will not. This test is inexpensive, and
sufficiently accurate to serve for practical purposes in the
examination of foundation for adulteration with mineral wax.
The liquid may be kept in a glass-stoppered bottle for future
tests.

115. Change of Colour.—When no longer fresh, foundation
may become darker in colour and so brittle that it will break
if tested by bending. Warming it slightly before a fire will
improve it, and will partially restore its original colour.

116. Quantity Required.—13 lbs. of brood foundation will
about suffice for 11 standard frames (97}, 1% lb. of thin super
foundation will fill about 105 sections, 44"”x43", or five crates
(103).

117. Fixing Foundation.—Foundation is usually fixed in
sections by means of the splits in the tops, or in the tops and
sides (101), and in frames, the upper edge of the sheet is caught
either in a saw-cut in the top bar, or by the groove and wedge
already described (97). When full sheets are used in frames,
and especially when intended for extracting purposes, the
foundation is generally wired to the frames (263). Formerly
foundation was fixed with melted wax, but this method, re
quiring more time and labour, is rapidly falling into disuse.
However the fastening may be made, it is important that the
foundation be fixed right side up (Figs. 41, 42, 43).

COMB FOUNDATION, 63

It has been observed
by Huber, and Cheshire,
and indeed by everyone
who has carefully ex-
amined a honey comb,
that it is customary for
bees to build their cclls
with two of the
six sides perpen-
POUNDATION dicular, thus—

: : = and in this posi-

ib ama cas Stes tion foundation should
always be used (Fig. 43, A). Ifthe sheet be fixed the other
way, the impress of the cells will be out of form, thus—
and this is not desirable (Fig. 43, B).

118. Wiring Appliances are used for fastening founda-
tion securely in frames to prevent it from sagging when
the heat of the hive softens the wax, and the weight of
clustering bees tends to bear it down. Combs which may
some day find their way to the extractor (134) should always
be wired in the frames, lest
the centrifugal force employed
to throw out the honev
should break the comb. The
Wiring Board (Fig. 44) is a
piece of 3” wood, cut 133” x 74"
so as to fit inside the frame.
Two laths, 143" x $" x 32’,
* projecting 3” at Pete end, are

Fig. 44, nailed on ihe back. Holes

WIRING BOARD, are bored in the bars of the

frame; and No. 30 tinned

wire is drawn through and tightened (262). It is then em-

bedded in the foundation by a heated embedder, which may be

a strong bradawl, having a groove cut in its edge. Drawn

along the wire it rresses it into the foundation, at the same time

melting sufficient wax to cover the wire (263). The Woiblet

Spur-embedder (Fig. 45) has a grooved wheel to act upon the
wire.

Fig, 43.

Fig. 45.
WOIBLET SPUR-EMBEDDER.

64 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XI.

APPLIANCES FOR FEEDING BEES.

119. Feeding.—Bees require to be fed when their stores run
short; and at other times, also, it is found to be profitable to
supply artificial food (311). For this purpose, it is necessary
to have feeders which will supply the food in the proper quan-
tities, and in the proper position, so that the bees may use
it for the purpose intended, and may have convenient access
to it, without the danger of setting up robbing (307) by attract-
ing stranger bees to the sweets supplied.

120. The “ Economic” Feeder
(Fig. 46) isan ordinary syrup tin,
with a lever-top lid in which holes
are punched. It is inverted upon
the frames, direct, or upon a
single stage of 3” wood through
which a hole has been cut to give

access to the bees. When the
feeder is being removed, a corner

of the carbolic cloth (127), or a
separator (102), may be slipped
under it to keep the bees down.

121. The Bottle and Stage
Feeder (Fig. 47) can be put to-
gether at a trifling expense. It
consists of a wide-mouthed bottle,
or jar, with a piece of coarse
calico tied over the mouth; two
squares of 3” wood; and a piece
of perforated zinc. The squares
of wood are placed evenly one
upon the other, and a hole is cut
through them sufficiently large to
admit the mouth of the bottle.
The perforated zinc is inserted
between the squares, which are
then nailed together. This stage
BOTTLE AND STAGE FEEDER. js placed upon the tops of the

frames, and the zinc prevents
the bees from escaping upwards, but permits them to reach
the syrup when the bottle is inverted upon the stage.

Fig. 46,
ECONOMIC FEEDER.

APPLIANCES FOR FEEDING BFES. 65

122. The Craduated Bottle and
Stage Feeder (Fig. 48) is made upon
the same principles with those already
described, but the screw-cap and the
stage are so arranged that by turning
the bottle round, the supply of syrup
can be increased or diminished between
1 and g holes, or can be cut off alto-
gether. A pointer attached to the
screw-cap, and figures upon the stage
indicating the number of holes ex-
posed, enable the supply to be regu-

Fig. 48. lated as desired. This feeder can be
GRADUATED FEEDER, used for slow or rapid feeding accord-
ing to the season.

123. Slow and Rapid Feeders (Figs. 49, 50), capable of
holding 1 quart of syrup, are used chiefly in the autumn when
it becomes necessary to feed
up the stocks rapidly so that
they may be able to store and
seal the syrup before the cold
weather sets in--wintering
bees upon unsealed stores
being very likely to lead to
—— dysentery (330). The feeder
Z (Fig. 49) 1s a round tin box,

Fig. 49. with a moveable lid, and a

ROUND TIN FEEDER. flange round the bottom to
provide the necessary bee
space between the frames
and the feeder when in use.
A round hole in the bottom
permits the bees to pass
up a tunnel into the feeder,
A wooden float surrounds
the funnel, and _ outside
y this is a tin case with a
it glass top. When the lid
is removed, and syrup is
poured into the box, the

wooden float rises. The
Fig. 50. bees pass out upon the
“ ALEXANDER” FEEDER. float to reach the syrup,

and can be seen through the glass top of the inner case. The
“Alexander” Feeder (Fig. 50), described and illustrated in
Gleanings, is attached to the floor board, and the hive is drawn
back to cover it (91). All that is necessary is to lift a block off
the projecting end, pour in syrup, and replace the block.

66 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

124, The Canadian Feeder (Fig. 51), capable of holding six
to ten pounds of syrup, is used when it is desired to give food
rapidly, or to have the winter food for a number of colonies
stored and sealed by one stock (315). In the latter case the
stock is supplied with drawn out combs, and the feeder is
refilled as fast as it is emptied, the combs being removed when
sealed, and their
places supplied by
empty combs. By
setting apart a
stock for this pur-
pose _ sufficient
sealed stores can
be provided to
supply all the
colonies with win-
ter food. The

Fig. 51. feeder has a tin

CANADIAN FEEDER. lining, and is fit-

: ted with a wooden

construction to give the bees foot-hold. This latter can be

removed when it is desired to insert honey in comb, either

for feeding or for cleaning up purposes. There is a double-

hung lid, so that the contents can be seen, and the feeder
teplenished as required.

125. The Division Board Feeder (Fig. 52) isa device for giving
food in the body of the hive. Itis made the same length and depth
=mm aS an ordinary
Division Board or
Dummy (93). The
top bar is fastened
with screws so that
it may be removed
for cleaning pur-
poses. The food
is poured through
a hole in the top
bar, close to
Fig. 62. which hole a par-
DIVISION BOARD FEEDER. tition running
from within 3” of
the bottom to the top shuts the bees off from the hole. A 4"
slit in one side, near the top, admits the bees to the syrup.

4PPLIANCES FOR SUBDUING AND HANDLING BEES. 67

CHAPTER XII.
APPLIANCES FOR SUBDUINGC AND HANDLING BEES.

126. The Smoker (Fig. 53) is employed for subduing bees,
and is a most useful appliance in an apiary (171). A puff or
two of smoke blown in at the entrance frightens the bees, and
causes them to fill themselves with honey; in which condition
they are not inclined to give trouble (167). The smoker has
a bellows, a fuel box, and a removable nozzle. A roll of dry
brown paper, a piece of
rag, or a piece of dry,
¢ rotten wood is lighted
—& and placed in the fuel
= box, lighted end down;
B the nozzle is put on, and
; if the smoker be left
standing nozzle up, it
- will draw like a chim-
ney, and the fuel will
keep alight. To ex-

Fig. 53. tinguish the fuel the

SMOKER. smoker is placed on its
side. If brown paper is used it may first be damped with a
weak solution of saltpetre, and then thoroughly dried (175). A
grating in the lower part of the nozzle prevents the blowing
into the hive of particles of lighted fuel. Smokers require to
be cleaned occasionally. The nozzle may be cleaned by being
boiled in water. If the fuel box require cleaning, it may be
similarly treated, after having been removed from the bellows.

127. The Carbolic Cloth is also a subduer of bees, and by
some is preferred to the smoker. In certain operations it is
somewhat easier to work with than is the smoker, and once
prepared (176), it requires little or no attention during a long
period. Ticking, calico, or muslin, 20” x 18”, may be used,
with (if preferred) a hem on one 18” edge to take an 18” lath.
A solution of Calvert's No. 5 Carbolic Acid, one part to ten
parts of water, is prepared, and with it the cloth is thoroughly

PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

TUT

68

“SHLVOIMILYUAD LUAdXH HOT SALVAGIGNVO
‘sabbig *) ‘¢}

SNINIWVSGA

“EINDL

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(iq O10ud

APPLIANCES FOR SUBDUING AND HANDLING BEEs. 69

damped. _ If the cloth, when not in use, be kept in a close-shut
tin box, it will retain its objectionable smell for a long time.
lhe solution should be shaken before being used. (Recipe 362).

128. Use of Veils.—The veil (Fig. 54) is used to protect the
face and neck from stings. Although bees in a hive may be
thoroughly subdued by smoke or carbolic fumes, an occasional
bee outside the hive, and which has not been within reach of
the subduing agent, may develope a warlike spirit sufficiently
active to be taken account of
(169); Many bee-keepers, from
oft familiarity, hold stings in
contempt, no matter where
applied, becoming immune to
the poison when thoroughly in-
oculated with it. But others,
and especially beginners, are
wise in having veils for the pro-
tection of the face, and because
of the confidence they give dur-
ing the manipulation of unami-
able stocks. The veil may be
= made of black netting, or of

Fig. 54. white netting if a piece of black
NEL VEIL. be added for the front, it being
easier to see through black
netting than through white. A piece of netting 48” x 24” will
make an ample veil; and 36” x 18” will make a veil sufficiently
large for most purposes. The ends are sewn together, and a
hem is run on one edge, to carry a piece of elastic
arranged to grip tightly round the crown of the hat to be
used. It worn as in the illustration (Fig. 54), the free end
being carefully tucked in, and the coat buttoned, it will be next
to impossible for the face to be stung. Some veils have a
piece of elastic round the lower edge also as an additional pro-
tection; it closes round the collar, effectually preventing bees
from crawling under.

129. A Lady’s Veil may be made larger, for wear with a
broad-brimmed hat. A strip of broad elastic is sewn in the
lower edge so that it will fit over the shoulders, and two straps
passing under the arms and buttoning in front, keep the veil
in position. Ladies sometimes wear overalls to which the veil
fastens, and which are tied or strapped round the waist (168).
Mosquito netting makes an excellent lady’s veil.

130. The Wire-cloth Veil (Fig. 55) is not so comfortable as
a net veil, but it has the advantage that the wind cannot blow
it against the tip of the nose or chin at the precise moment
when an aggressive bee is seeking a point of attack. On the

70 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

other hand, it is not easy to carry
about, and when midges are
worrying one’s face, it is exasper-
ating to be unable to get at them
with the fingers. Net and elastic
are used round the crown of the
hat, and from the rim down are
two pieces of wire cloth 18” x 7",
joined at the ends by two picces
of netting 4” x 7”, allowing the
veil to fold flat when not in use.
The veil is carried down a few
: inches more with netting, which
Vie. 55. may be either tucked under the

WIRE CLOTH VEIL. coat or caught round the collar

by elastic.

131. Use of Cloves.—Among experienced bee-keepers gloves
are held in ill-repute, as clumsy and unnecessary things. Some
will almost go so far as to hold that nothing that is accom-
plished with the aid of gloves can properly be called bee-
keeping. During many years it was impossible for anyone
who covered his hands to qualify as an Expert under the Rules
of the Irish Bee-keepers’ Association, and, quite wisely, under
the existing Rules, a candidate for the Association’s Expert
Certificate is penalised at his examination, if he resorts to the
use of gloves during manipulations. Nevertheless, gloves,
tho’ they be “clumsy things,” are in some cases indispen-
sable; and, tho’ they be sneered at by veterans, are often a
source of confidence, and, as such, a valuable assistance to
beginners (169).

“Thore are constitutions that cannot endure stings without much
pain and inconvenience, and occasionally even positive danger. There
are ladies, and strong men also, to whom a 100 per cent. hypodermic
injection of formic acid, accompanied by the angry buzz of a vicious
bee, is alway a hateful experience; and there are many who will agree
as to the clumsiness of gloves, but who would not dare, without such
protection, to engage in the practice of bee-keeping at all.”’—Jrish Bee
Journal,

It would be absurd to dissuade such persons from bee-keeping
for no other reason than that they manipulate with gloves.
It must, however, be said that some of the most delicate opera-
tions, such as picking a queen off the comb, and wing clipping
(212), cannot be carried out as neatly, nor always as success-
fully, with gloves; and that, generally speaking, the wiser
course is to discontinue the use of gloves as soon as possible.

APPLIANCES FUR SUBDUING AND HANDLING BEES 71

132. Various Cloves.—Thick woollen glov es, covered with a
pair of white cotton gloves long enough in the wrist to run up
on the cuff, are sometimes used; but they are really “clumsy
things,” and are difficult to work with (169). If soaked in
water immediately beforehand, the bees will not be inclined
to sting them; and if stung, their thickness prevents the sting
from entering the flesh. India rubber gloves are good pro-
tectors, and are not inconvenient to work with. Ordinary
leather gloves may, sometimes, be made to serve the purpose.
They are steeped for a minute or two in hot water; are then
put upon the hands; and while being held before a fire, have
beeswax well rubbed into the leather. It is said that bees
commonly respect such gloves, and that if the tips of a finger
and thumb be removed from both gloves, and the exposed flesh
be anointed with wax, all manipulations can be carried out
with safety. Burkitt Bee Gloves (169) are made of soft white
leather, having attached a linen gauntlet coming well up the
arm, and bordered with red braid. These gloves are quite
ornamental when new; the bees do not show any inclination to
attack them; and operations can be performed without
inconvenience.

Photo by] (J. @. Digges.
EXAMINING THE TOP CRATE—A CIGARETTE “SMOKER,”

aa
to

THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XIII.
APPLIANCES FOR HONEY AND WAX EXTRACTION.

133. Invention of the Honey Extractor.—When Langstroth,
in 1851, had invented the moveable-comb hive (86), and
Mehring, in 1857, had introduced foundation (111), the next
great benefit which discovery was to confer upon the industry
was the provision of a means by which honey might be re-
moved from the comb without the destruction of the latter.
Hitherto honey had been extracted either by crushing the combs
or by melting them—an expensive method in every way, as
will be gathered from what has already been said upon the
subjects of wax secretion and comb building (73). In 1865,
de Hruschka, an Italian, observing his son carelessly swinging
a piece of honey comb in a basket, noticed that the motion
slung some of the honey out of the cells. Taught by what
seemed to be a mere accident, he proceeded to apply the
principle of centrifugal force to honey extraction, and with a
diligence which was crowned with success, and which has for
ever placed bee-keepers under
a debt of gratitude to the man.

134. The Honey Extractor.—
The Honey Extractor is a
strong, tinned iron can (Fig.
56) with two cages, which re-
volve round a verticle spindle,
ard hold eacha frame of comb.
The cages (6) are set in mo-
tion by the handle (a) on top,
and when the honey has been
thrown from the outer sides,
the combs are reversed and
the operation is repeated. The
honey is slung out against the
sides of the can, is received
in the bottom, below the
revolving cages, and may be
drawn off through the syrup
tap (d) (277). If the extract-
ing is properly done, and if

a + the combs have been wired in
Fig. 56. the frames (263), the combs
EONEY EXTRACTOR AND
KNIVES.

APPLIANCES FOR HONEY AND WAX EXTRACTION. 13

remain uninjured, and may be returned to the hive to be refilled,
being used for this purpose year after year, thus effecting a
great economy, as already explained (73). Extractors are
made with gearing, which lessens the labour of working the
revolving cages, and is capable of getting up a high speed.
A small form of extractor may be had to extract one frame at
a time. This appliance, however, is slow, laborious, and
not likely ever to become popular.

135. Uncapping Knife.—
Uncapping may be done
with a sharp carving knife.
But the most useful knife

Fig, 87. tor the purpose ts the un-

UNCAPPING KNIFE. capping knife illustrated.

(Figs. 56, 57). It has be-

velled edges; and with a little practice it can be used with

rapidity and completeness upon the most irregularly built
combs (276).

Tig. 59.
RYMER HONEY PRESS.

: 136. Strainer and Ripener.—
: Honcy that has not been cappcd

5 a eee over by the bees before extraction,
BUEATNEH 4 “and that is unripe, requires to be
ripened in a warm temperature before being offered for
sale. The Strainer and Ripener (Fig. 58) has a flannel, a
cheese cloth, or a wire-gauze strainer, into which the honey is
run from the extractor. The honey flows into the ripener
underneath, and a syrup tap is provided for drawing it
off. (277).

74

TILE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

137. The Honey Press.—Heather honey, which is too thick
to be thrown out by the Honey Extractor (134), and honey
which is to be removed from combs that are intended to be
rendered into wax, may be pressed out by the Honey Press.
The Rymer Honey Press (Fig. 59) is made of malleable iron
and steel; it has a square thread screw, and all the parts that
come in contact with honey are tinned.

The honey is forced

between the grate and the outer case, and flows into the
(276).

teceptacle underneath.

138.
ractors. These
most useful ap-
pliances are in-
tended for the
rendering into
wax of discarded
combs, cell cap-
pings (276) and
any odd bits of
foundation which
may be collected
from time to time,
and (wax being a
valuable commo-
dity) may thus be
turned to good
account (279).

Wax Ex-

Fig. 60.

SOLAR WAX EXTRACTOR,

139. The Solar Wax Extractor (Fig. 60) is simple in use,
inexpensive, and gives satisfactory results, provided that the

ae

Wy

(

a

Fig. 61.
READ’S SOLAR WAX EXTRACTOR,

solar element be
not wanting. Mr.

M. H. Read de-
scribes his home-
made extractor

(Fig. 61) as fol-
lows :—

“The extractor
measures 2/.3” long,
1/.11” deep, 10” high
at back, and 63!
high in front, inside
measurement. It is
made of 14/ timber,
dovetailed. The sides
and back of the sash,

or cover, are 2" by

APPLIANCES FOR HONEY AND WAX EXTRACTION 75

14”, and the front is 2” by 1”. The sash is glazed with 2402. glass.
Tho inside width (2/.3”) was fixed upon so as to hold a tray of ordinary
corrugated iron, upon which the wax to be purified is laid. The
impurities remain on the tray, and the clear wax, as melted, runs
down into a trough which runs all along the front. The trough is
cut from a strip of corrugated iron (valley and two corrugations) the
two corrugations hammered up, to make one deep trough, the ends of
which are hammered up, so that the wax is held in it. The extractor
has a loose-filting bottom, and is filled up witha sloping bed of cinders,
within 4” of the glass, the trough being set in the ashes in front, and
the tray on the bed of ashes and overhanging the edge of the trough.
Being fitted with a loose bottom, the extractor can be turned to face
the sun, the rays of which should fall perpendicularly on the glass. A
reflector, of a large sheet of tin, could be added.”—Irish Bee Journal.

a ———_ 140. Steam Wax Ex-
: tractor.—For extracting
by steam, an apparatus
(Fig. 62) is supplied
which does its work
thoroughly, is not diffi-
cult to manage, and in
our fickle climate which
so often denies us the
sun, is more generally
useful than is the Solar
Extractor, The upper
portion has a perforated
tin basket into which
the pieces of comb are
placed, and underneath
which is a tray, with an
outlet. When the water
in the lower portion
boils, the steam ascends
to the basket and melts

Fig. 62. the wax which escapes

STEAM WAX EXTRAUTOR. through the outlet and

is caught in a basin of

cold water. The refuse remains in the basket, and when the
wax in the basin cools, it may be lifted out in a cake. (279).

[Other useful and necessary Appliances will be found described in
the various chapters of Part II1.J

76 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

PART III.
MODERN BEE-KEEPINC.

CHAPTER XIV.
PAST AND PRESENT.

141. Past Ignorance.—Previous to the introduction of what
are known as “modern methods,” bee-keeping was carried on
under most discouraging conditions. It is true that in very
early days something was known of the habits of the honey
bee, and that so early as 70 B.o. Virgil, the Latin poet, put
forward in verse the results of his study of the habits of bees,
with a degree of accuracy sufficient to excite a wondering
admiration on the part of twentieth century readers. But to
the average bee-keeper the hive, until comparatively recent
times, was as a sealed book; and the marvels that it contains,
the excellence of its internal economy, and the unselfish devo-
tion, wisdom, and singular attractiveness of its occupants were,
if known at all, known only to the few. Virtues and beauties
thus hidden could make but little appeal, as yet, to the
respectful admiration of human intelligence. The heroic acts
and incomparable works were wrought, like evil deeds, in
darkness: and man, loving only the visible, the tangible,
sceptic always of the unseen, had not learned that within the
secret places of the hive were enshrined mystery upon mystery,
and that within the humming insect, flitting in his garden from
flower to flower, there beat a heart brave and noble enough
to deserve his respect and even to awaken his love.

142. Survival of the Unfit.—Unrfamiliar with the instincts of
bee life, man found himself unable to control by gentleness,
and thought it necessary to resort to violence for the subjuga-
tion of insects armed by nature with stings. The harvest of
honey and wax was gathered at the expense of the lives of the
colonies. The strongest and fittest—those whose stores were
heaviest, were devoted to destruction; the weakest and the
sickly were spared; and the sulphur pit—that abominabie
outrage upon industrious innocence, laid waste the home of
vigour and opulence, and secured the survival of the unfit (77).

PAST AND PRESENT. 17

It remained for Swammerdam, Reaumur, Huber (89) and other
investigators, to dispel the darkness which surrounded the
operations of the hive, and to devise means by which the occu-
pants might be controlled, and the industry be worked for
increased profit, and upon humane principles. Nor was it the
least important result of their researches which put it within our
power to correct the errors of the past; and, by careful selec-
tion, to effect such improvements in the race of bees as may
tend to render them more robust, less liable to disease, gentler,
and more prolific and profitable.

143. Modern Bee-keeping.—The title “ Modern Bee-keeping ”
stands for such skilful management of bees, based upon an
intelligent appreciation of their habits, as may secure the
maximum results of their labours, and the fullest development
of their best characteristics. It represents the desire to
minister to their comfort; to assist their industry by thought-
ful anticipation of their requirements; and to encourage in
them the spirit of amiability by the display of a like spirit on
the part of man, and by the avoidance of all roughness and
cruelty in dealing with them. Modern bee-keeping has so
improved upon the older methods that the produce of the bees’
labour has been enormously increased, without a corresponding
tax upon their strength. It has been made possible for anyone
who understands what it means to take pains, to manage bees
with a handsome profit to himself. He can now engage in a
pursuit which has in itself an enthralling interest; and which,
if carefully attended to, will return more than an ample com-
pensation for the time devoted to it. The moveable-comb
hive permits him to become familiar with the habits, and to
explore all the wondrous work of the honey bee (81). He can
take out the “waxen palaces,” can investigate their beauties,
and see with what skill they have been constructed. He can
watch the queen as she moves across the combs, depositing
her eggs in the vacant cells. He can replace her with a
younger queen reared by himself, or imported in a postal
packet from foreign lands (300), and can, at will, oblige her
to produce drones or workers (113), as the conditions of his
colonies require. He can observe the various stages of the
egg and larva, and witness the breaking of the capping and
the emerging of the new-born bee. By the use of foundation
(110) he can supply the material for the building of the combs;
and can so regulate the storing of honey that it may be re-
moved in the shape and condition most marketable, and with-
out injury to the gatherers. The extractor (134) enables him
to use the same combs again and again, and, by increasing
the harvest, to make his industry still more profitable. In
short, he can so utilise the advantages which modern discovery

THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

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2),

“ULIVAS ISIN STH (8) “SION’A CATH (Z) “hreldy ssouulseq VW (1)
AAHOOTALIIN LV .UtATH ATA,, AG HVAUALAO NV

PAST AND PRESENT. 79

and invention have supplied, that he can engage in bee-kceping
as in a delightful occupation, and one that is capable of being
turned to good practical account.

144. A Profitable Industry.—It is something in favour of
modern bee-keeping to be able to say that, in proportion with
the amount of labour and capital involved, no other agricultural
industry can show a like profit. A good stock of bees in a
modern hive, with the necessary fittings, and costing in all,
say 41 10S. is capable of producing, in a normal season, and
under proper management, a profit of from £1 10s. to £2, or
cent. per cent., and over. It is something also in its favour
that it requires neither broad acres nor much physical strength
for its employment. Four square feet of land will hold a hive.
A window sill will accommodate two. A corner of a yard or
garden—a plot 25 feet square, might be occupied by from 25
to 50. There is no heavy labour required. For five or six
months of the year there is little to be done. In the remaining
months an average of a quarter of an hour per week should
suffice to devote to one stock. And it is open-air work, light,
interesting, and such as ladies, and even children can accom-
plish without fatigue. There are many school girls and boys
who are working bees successfully, and are making handsome
additions to the family purse. There are bee-keepers not a
few who, without excessive labour, are marketing over £200
worth, each, of honey per annum. There is the case of Mr.
John Doyle, of Kellystown—a case which offers a sufficient
reply to folk who sneer at the industry as a mere hobby.
Starting in 1887 with the discovery of a stray swarm, he had
found bee-keeping increasingly remunerative, and had so
applied the modern principles to his industry that in 1901 his
bees paid him a profit of over #100. In 1906, he marketed
over £166 worth of honey from 092 stocks, and from the profits
produced by his bees he acquired land and houses, his latest
purchase—Woodville House and farm, having cost £1,000.—
(Lrish Bee Journal), Nothing of the kind could have been
possible under the old methods. Bees in skeps or boxes
cannot produce anything like the same profit which they are
capable of producing in modern hives and under capable
management. {[t is surprising that it should still be possible
to find whole districts in which modern bee-keeping is un-
known, and where only the wastefui, cruel methods of the
skeppist are practised.

80 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XV.
ARRANCING AN APIARY.

145. Selecting a Position.—Before actually beginning bee-
keepirg, it will be well to select a suitable position for the
apiary. Bees in hives are sometimes kept in curious places—
on house roofs; in narrow passages; on window sills. A lady
in London has several stocks in her drawingroom. A hive
may be set up in one’s bedroom, the bees having a passage
through a hole in the window sash. For an apiary out of doors
almost any position will suit. But there ought not to be any
serious chstruction to the bees’ flight; and there should be
room at the back of the hives for the owner, and a reasonable
distance between the apiary and the county road or other place
of public resort.

146. Bees near Dwellings.—It can hardly be said that bees
learn to know their owner as a dog learns to know his master:
yet it has been observed that bees located near dwellings
become accustomed to persons passing to and fro, and are less
likely to make themselves objectionable when one approaches
their hives, than if they were situated in a remote, quiet place.
Indeed bees, remarkable at one time for their gentleness, have
been known to develope very hasty tempers after having been
removed from their old stand near a dwelling, to a lonely spot
where they were never visited except for the purpose of
manipulation. Risk of unpleasantness may be minimised by
a wise arrangement of the stocks. If, for example, the hives
be placed thirty or forty yards south of a dwelling, and with
their backs to the house, the flight will be towards the south,
and the bees will give little or no annoyance. Should there
be a path or garden in front of them, a high fence, or hedge,
will “lift” them over the path, and will serve as a protection
for persons passing by. It is desirable to provide against
cold storms from the north and west. A hedge of strong
privet plants will quickly make an efficient shelter. Although
not absolutely necessary, it is advisable to have the hives,
or as many of them as possible, facing south-east; because,
in that position, they will get the warmth of the early sun about
their entrances to entice the occupants out for early labour.

iS ON FLAGS,

ARRANGING AN APIARY. 81

147. Position of the Hives.—The hives ought not to be
crowded together. Bees, on taking flight, mark the location
of their hives, and with surprising accuracy return from long
distances to the same spot from which they started (156). But,
when their hives are close together, and are painted the same
colour, with no distinguishing marks upon them, becs will
sometimes enter the wrong hives and mcet a warm reception
there, leading to fighting and general excitement, which
should be avoided as far as possible. Bees of a colony quickly
detect an intruder. In the case of qucens returning from their
nuptials, it is of the first importance that they should have every
facility for recognising their own hives (283). The hives may
stand four feet from cach other, or farther apart if space permit.

Fig. 63.
SPIRIT LEVEL AND MEASURE.

Those illustrated are six feet apart and are painted (1) white,
(2) red, and (3) blue, in succession. They should be
perfectly level across the frames in order that the combs
may be built plumb. If the frames run at right angles
to the entrance, it is no harm to give the hive a tilt towards the
front. Hives with legs may be set upon bases of flag or
concrete, upon four
bricks, or directly upon
the ground. If bases or
bricks are used, they
should be carefully
levelled with a spirit level
(Fig. 63). A hive without
legs (Fig. 65) may have
a simple stand made of
two pieces of plank 24”
x 7" x 14", a piece 33"
x 14” being cut out of

Fig. 64. 5
“X" STAND, each, and the pieces be-

ing nailed together in
shape of an X (Fig. 64). The floor board (85) being placed in
Position, should be tested with a level, or with a bowl of water
set uponit. When the hive is ready a stout stake may be driven

82 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

into the ground, at one side of the hive, for use when prepara-
tions are being made for winter (380). Grass and weeds must
be kept down in the vicinity of the hives. If allowed to grow,
they intercept the flight, and should a queen drop off a frame,
or aclipped queen (212) fall on the ground at swarming time,
she may easily be trodden on, or lost. It will save much trouble

Fig. 65. Fig. 66.
“xX” STAND IN USE. APPLIANCE PRESS.

if the sod be lifted around and in front of the hives, and a
good coat of concrete, gravel, or cinders be laid down. The
plot selected should be fenced to prevent cattle, pigs, etc.,
from interfering with the hives.

148. Appliance Press and Apiary House.—It is most incon-
venient to have the appliances stored at a distance from the
apiary. To leave things about the house means often to have
them mislaid; and to run to and fro when engaged manipu-
lating is often to put an undue tax upon the temper, and to
raise a riot among the bees. A press on legs, made of old
boxes, painted, with a waterproof roof (Fig. 66), and that can
be carried from place to place if necessary, will be found to
amply repay the trouble of making it. For an apiary of more
than five or six hives, an apiary-house should be . provided in
which all tools and appliances can be kept, frames and sections
put together, hives nailed, honey extracted, and all the various
jobs have attention. Such a house can be made at a trifling
expense, while the assistance it gives, and the time it saves
are incalculable.

COMMENCING BEE.-KEEPING. 83

CHAPTER XVI.
COMMENCING BEE-KEEPINGC.

149. Three Words of Advice may be useful to anyone who
proposes to try his hand at bee-keeping, viz. :—Begin

(1) Moderately.
(2) Prudently.
(3) Intelligently.

150. Begin on a Small Scale.—To begin moderately, begin
on a small scale, with one or two stocks. Few things have
done more to discourage beginners from persevering with the
industry, than has the mistake of starting with more stocks
than they could easily manage before they had gained the
necessary experience. In due time, when you have learned
something of the habits and wants of bees, you will be able
to add to the number of your colonies and, perhaps, to attend
to twelve or twenty stocks without greater expenditure of time
than, at the outset, you will find necessary to devote to two.

151. Purchasing Bees.—To begin prudently, provide your-
self with the best hives and appliances that you can get; not
necessarily the most expensive, but the best. And if you start
by purchasing bees, do not hesitate to give a little more money
for a really good stock or swarm. By “Stock” is meant an
established colony of bees in a hive. But stocks differ so
much in value that if one be worth £1 another may not be
worth half-a-crown, and a third may be worth less than noth-
ing. By “Swarm” is meant a queen, and attendant bees
which have just abandoned a hive (19). These also vary in
value from tos. or 15s. to nothing, according to their numbers,
condition of health, the ages of their queens, and the date of
their swarming (205). Most important is it to provide against
purchasing, or admitting as a free gift to your apiary, bees
that are diseased or that have come from a diseased hive, a

84 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

discased apiary, or a diseased neighbourhood (349). It is
safest, and often it is necessary, to get someone of experience
to inspect bees about to be purchased and the apiary to which
they belong, and to report upon their antecedents and condi-
tion. On this subject perhaps no one can offer advice sounder,
or based upon wider experience than that given by Mr.
Turlough B. O’Bryen—

“ Just now the general desire to purchase stocks to make an early
start, tempts me to say a word both of caution and advice on the
matter. Foul brood is now so widespread that no county can be said
to be absolutely free from it. Therefore the would-be purchaser
should take the offer of a bargain with suspicion and caution. It will
not do to trust to a piece of comb to send to our Editor, for that
particular piece may not be diseased. It is better to have the
stock examined by one who is familiar with the disease in all its
phases. Being satisfied that the stock is healthy, it only requires
a glance into the centre brood frames to ascertain if there is brood
in all stages, or any in the junior stages (eggs and larvae) to certify
the presence of a queen,’—IJrish Bee Journal.

152. Commencing with a Swarm.—Spcaking gencrally, one
may begin at any time of the year in which the “bee fever”
takes him. But, if he can arrange it so, it will be best to
commence in the spring; and, having his apiary and hives in
readiness, to purchase the best early swarm that he can pro-
cure. An ideal swarm will be one that comes off in April,
or early in May; that is from a stock which swarmed in the
previous year; and that contains from 25,000 to 30,000 bees.
If it issue early in the spring, it will be able to give some
surplus honey, and to establish itself well before winter (205):
if it is from a stock which swarmed in the previous year, it will
have a queen in her prime (20), and if it contain 25,000 or
30,000 becs, it will be strong enough to put heart into its work,
and to carry on until the new brood shall be able to fly. The
vendor will probably hive the swarm in a skep (77), or box, and
will deliver it, or will notify the purchaser that it is ready for
removal.

153. Moving Gwarms.—The transporting of the swarm to
the new apiary presents no difficulty. All that is required is
to remove it as soon as it has been secured, or, failing that,
to wait until the bees have settled down in the evening. The
skep should be set down upon a piece of perforated zinc,
coarse netting, or canvas, which should be firmly tied round
the skep, so as to make sure that sufficient air can get in, and
that no bees can get out. The swarm, thus secure from escape,

COMMENCING BEE-KEEPING. 85

and asphyxiation, is carried, inverted, to its stand in its new
home. If now the skep, or box be
weighed, and if it be weighed again
when empty, and if 5,000 bees be
allowed to the pound, the number of
bees in the swarm can be fairly
accurately calculated. A lot of
3 lbs. weight, including say 15,000
bees, makes a moderate swarm;
5 lbs., or say 25,000 bees, may be re-
garded with very particular satisfac-
tion. From 3s. to 3s. 6d. per lb. is
not too much to pay for an early
swarm with a one-year-old queen.
Fig. 67 illustrates a cheap and use-
ful balance for weighing hives.

154. Sending Swarms per Post.—
Swarms, and bees apart from their
combs, may be sent cheaply and
safely per post. A suitable box is

Fig. 67. procured, and two webb or canvas
BALANCE FOR WEIGHING bands, 4” or 5” deep, are fastened in

HIVES, UP TO 400 LBS. it parallel with and about 2” from
the sides, and at least 13” from the top and bottom. This is
done by running string or stout wire through holes bored in
the ends of the box, and through hems in the canvas bands.
Instead of a lid, the box should have a covering of coarse,
strong canvas, and, for further ventilation, several small holes
should be bored in the bottom and sides. Mr. O’Bryen, from
whom the idea comes, has sent bees with perfect safety in this
manner. He, however, took the precaution of asking the postal
officials to send the box in either a vacant, or a not overcrowded
post office basket.

155. Commencing with a Stock.—If it be decided to begin
by the purchase of an established stock in a skep or frame hive,
steps should be taken to ascertain exactly the condition of the
colony and of the skep or hive. If the vendor can show a clean
bill of health; if the queen be vigorous; the combs even, and
well supplied with brood, and not too old; and if the skep or
hive be in good condition, a bargain may be made.

156. Moving Stocks.—The transport of a stock to a new
apiary requires some care. Among other considerations, the
question of distance must be taken into -account. It has
already been explained that bees will fly a distance of two miles
in search of food, and will return again to the place from which
they started (35). But if their hive be moved more than a

86 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

couple of feet during their absence, or at night, without pre-
cautions being taken to cause the bees, in the morning, to take
notice of the alteration, a number of them will return to the
stand to which they were accustomed, and will flutter about
it and die there. It follows that if the bees to be purchased
are located more than two miles from the purchaser’s apiary,
they may be transported direct without risk; and that if their
old home is less than two miles off, special care must be taken
to prevent their return to it. Put briefly, bees may be moved
directly two feet and under, or two miles and over; but for
intermediate distances due precautions must be observed, viz.—
either to move the stock by short stages of two feet, in the
evening, after the bees have been flying freely, or to move it
from the old stand to a spot more than two miles away, and to
Iet the bees fly there for a few days, then moving them
to their new home; provided always that this second journey
be not less than two miles. If neither of these precautions
can be adopted, a third one may possibly answer the purpose,
viz.—the bees can be carried to their new location in the even-
ing, and arrangements can be made to oblige them, when they
fly in the morning, to observe that the scene, meanwhile, has
changed. This is done by placing about the entrance such
impediments to their flight as will demand their attention. A
little grass may be pushed into the entrance so that they may
have to squeeze their way out; a cloth may be hung down in
front of the hive; and boards or branches may be so arranged
that the bees, when they leave the hive, will notice at once the
alteration that has been made in its position. This will cause
them to mark the new situation and to return to it. The
impediments may be reduced on the next day, and removed
altogether on the day following, provided that the bees have
been flying freely meanwhile. When stocks are being moved
from one place to another in the same apiary, and more than
two feet at a time, similar precautions must be taken, with
this addition—that the old sites must be altered as much as
possible in appearance, any bees collecting there being carried
back in the evening to their hives. Further, it is to be remarked
that moving bees two feet per day can be safely done only
on days on which the bees fly, so that they will have marked the
position after one move before they be moved again: also,
that as a general rule, in winter months, when the bees have
been confined to their hives by stress of weather for not less
than a few weeks, they may be moved any distance with safety,
because they will naturally mark their new position after having
been for so long imprisoned.

157. Moving Stocks in Skeps by Road or Rail.—When
moving established stocks by car, cart, rail, or steamer, account

COMMENCING BEE-KEEPING. 87

mu&st be taken of the risks which they will have to run over bad
roads and indifferent springs, or at the hands of careless rail.
way shunters and porters; and also of the risks which the public
and animals in the neighbourhood will be exposed to should any
accident release the bees en route and give them “cause of
action.” For stocks in skeps, an old-fashioned and a useful
precaution is to push three or four stout wooden skewers
through the skep and combs, from side to side, two or three
days before the moving. The skewers, fastened by the bees,
act as stays to the combs, and can be withdrawn after the
journey. To further reduce the risk of combs breaking away
from their attachments, the skep is travelled bottom up. It is
first covered with some ventilating material, as directed above
(153), and is then inverted, placed in a large lidless box, and
packed underneath and around with straw. A rope handle is
attached to the box, and also a label in a prominent position,
and bearing the words—“ LIVE BEES, AND HONEY COMB:
WITH CARE.” An improvement upon these precautions
would be—to travel, yourself, with the bees.

158. Moving Stocks in Frame Hives by Road or Rail.—Stocks
in frame hives can generally be transported with safety when
the following instructions are observed. A hole 4” x 4” is cut
in the floor board and is covered with perforated zinc. Two
lengths of loosely-made straw or hay rope are placed on the
floor board at right angles with the frames. Frames with
honey and no brood are removed, their places in the hive being
filled with frames of old, empty combs, or with empty frames
having bands of canvas tacked on from top to bottom, or from
end to end, to which the bees may cling. Soft, new combs
with brood, if to remain in the hive, are tied in their frames
with two broad bands of calico or canvas running under the
combs and fastened over the top bars. The dummy is moved
up and screwed in position. Instead of the sheet and quilts,
a piece of coarse canvas or perforated zinc is laid on the frames
and tacked down. Two strong laths are laid across the frame
shoulders, and are securely screwed to the hive. The frames,
caught thus between the laths above and the straw ropes below,
cannot shake about. In the evening, when all the bees are at
home, the doors are removed, and the entrance is covered with
a piece of perforated zinc securely tacked to the wood. The
body box is then screwed to the floor board. The extra frames,
roof, doors, etc., travel separately. With large stocks, and in
very warm weather, it is advisable to leave in the hive only
sufficient bees to cover the brood, and to travel the remainder
in a skep as directed for swarms (153), hiving them in the
usual way (236) on arrival at the new locality.

83 THE PRACIICAL BEE GUIDE.

159. Commencing with Driven Bees.—In districts whcre
skeppists follow the barbarous custom of smothcring bees at
the close of the scason, it is generally possible to obtain

& “condemned lots” at
: a trifling expense,
8) the owners often be-
} ing willing to accept
a shilling or two for
the bees which,
otherwise, would be
destroyed. When two
or more condemned
lots can be procured
and united on combs
of honey, or on
frames of comb—if
in time to be fed up
before cold weather
sets in (315)—they
usually turn out well
in the following year.
All that is necessary
is to examine the
stocks for signs of
discase, and if they
Fig. 68, prove healthy, to get
DRIVING BEES. the bees away from
their combs. This
leads on to the operation of “ Driving,” which, although looked
upon by the uninitiated as a wonderful act of legerdemain, is
really one of the simplest operations connected with modern
bec-keeping.

160. Driving Bees.—A fine day, when bees are flying freely,
is to be preferred. The appliances required are-—(a@) One or
two empty skeps, or a Driving box (Fig. 79); (b) Driving
irons (Fig. 69); (¢) Smoker (Fig. 53, page 67); (d) Bucket
(Fig. 68); and (e) a table or chair. Blow a puff or two cf
smoke into the skep containing the bees, and give them time
to run up into the combs, and to feed (167). Carry the stock
to some sheltered corner, placing on its stand a box, or an
empty skep to decoy any flying bees. Blow some more smoke
into the occupied skep, causing the bees to gorge themselves
with honey. Place the bucket on a table or chair: lift the skep,
invert it, and place it, bottom upwards, in the bucket; set a
second skep upon it, “like a cockle shell half open,” the skeps

COMMENCING BEE-KEEPING. 89

touching above the ends of two cen-
| tral combs (Fig. 68). At that
point push in the skewer (Fig. 69)

oe) through the edges of both skeps to
hold them together, and stay up the

empty skep by the other irons, the

poits being pushed into the sides

of the skeps. These irons are from

Fig. 69. 15” to 18” long. Two laths, with
DRIVING IRONS. nails driven through the ends, and

a skewer of hard wood, may be
made to serve the purpose. With the opening between the
skeps in front of you, so that you may observe all that occurs,
rap the sides of the lower skep sharply with the palms of your
hands, or with two sticks, taking care that while jarring the
combs slightly you do not loose or break them down. Carry
on the rapping continuously at the rate of about two per second.
The bees will speedily run up past the skewer into the upper
skep, and if a queen be there, careful watching will discover her
passing up. “ Close Driving,” which is necessary in inclement
weather, consists in fastening the skeps together edge to edge,
tying a cloth round them, and driving as above; but close
driving does not permit one to watch the progress of the opera-
tion, nor to see the queen going up. Driving, whether open
or close, may usually be completed
in about a quarter of an hour. In
unfavourable weather, and if there
be little honey in the skep, it will be
an assistance to sprinkle the combs
and bees with warm, thin syrun (Re-
cipe 321) five or ten minutes before
driving (181). Colgan’s Driving
Box (Fig. 70), which was first ex-
hibited at the Armagh Show of 1903,
by Mr. William Colgan, supplies the
places of skep, irons, and swarm
carrier. It isa box, 11” x 11” x g!,
with a fast top anda sliding bottom.
An iron skewer at the back, moving
in two staples, and two pointed iron
rods on the sides, working on
pivots, hold the box in position upon
the skep from which the driving is
to take place. The irons, when not
in use, fold up on the box. On the

Fig. 70. lid is a brass handle, and inside at
COLGAN’S DRIVING BOX. the top is an arrangement for fasten-

90 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

ing pieces of comb or foundation on which the bees may cluster.
The front and the sliding bottom are ventilated with perforated
zinc. When a stock is to be driven, the box is fixed upon the
skep as shown, and, after the operation, the bottom is slipped
into its place, and all is ready to be carried away. When all
the bees are driven, put them and their skep, or box, back on
the old stand in place of the empty skep left there to receive
flying bees, which bees should now be shaken out on a board
before the entrance to the skep or box containing the driven
bees. If two or more driven lots are to be united (249) having
queens of different values, only the best queen should be
allowed to remain. The bees in each lot should be thoroughly
dusted with flour from a dredging box or sprayed with thin,
scented syrup from an asperser to make them unite peaceably.
The Asperser (Fig. 71) is sometimes used for the purpose;
but spraying with syrup,—a messy,
troublesome expedient at the best, is
not to be recommended. Since the dis-
covery that ordinary flour will serve the
purpose as well as scented syrup, the
kitchen dredging box has come into
favour as a cheaper, and less trouble-
some pacifier. When this has been
attended to, the two skeps can be
brought with the bottoms together, and
dumped on the ground, so as to throw
Fig. 71. those in the upper skep into the lower
ASPERSER. one. The bees, being then shaken
together thoroughly, and having the

same scent, will unite peaceably. In the evening, when they
have settled down, they can be carried off, or forwarded per
rail or post, as described above, and placed upon their new
stand, the canvas or zinc being removed. Such lots should
be fed up liberally and rapidly. (315). [See also Illus. p. 99,
and “ Automatic transfer from Skep to Modern Hive.” (254). |

161. Study the SubJect.—To begin intelligently, study the
subject thoroughly. Make yourself familiar with the nature
and habits of bees and with the most improved methods of
management. If you have an experienced bee-keeper in your
neighbourhood, or among your friends, gather from him all
the information that he can supply, and ask him to allow you
to witness his manipulations from time to time. But, when
you have studied a Bee Guide and have seen some of the opera-
tions connected with bee-keeping, do not suppose that you can
afford to proceed with the industry without keeping yourself
in touch with the approved literature of apiculture. In order
to take advantage of the latest discoveries, and of the experi-

COMMENCING BEE-KEEPING. 91

ences of the foremost bee-keepers of the day; in crder to com-
bine with the interests of the pursuit the profits which it is
capable of providing, you should subscribe for a reliable
publication and thus acquaint yourself with what is being
accomplished elsewhere, with the developments which are
taking place, and with the views of the most capable apicul-
turists upon the innumerable questions which, although
outside the purview of a guide book, present themselves in
actual experience every day. The Irish Bee Journal*—the
Ofpcial Organ of the Irish Bee-keepers’ Association and its
affiliated Associations, and of the Croydon and District and the
Perthshire Associations in Great Britain, is edited by the
author of this Guide, and supplies information upon every
subject connected with bee-keeping. Queries addressed to the
Editor are replied to either direct per post or telegraph, or in
the “Expert Advice” columns of the Journal. (See Note,
page 209).

* Irish Bee Journal, 1d. monthly, 1s. 6d. per annum, post free, from the
Office, Lough Rynn, B.S.0., Co. Leitrim, and from ail newsagents. Wholesale
Agents—Wm. Dawson & Sons, Ltd,, Breams Buildings, London, E.C.; Eason &
Son, Ltd,, Dublin,

.* THE PRACIICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XVII.
SUBDUING AND HANDLING BEES.

162. Tranquilising Influence of Smoke.—When all due
homage has been paid to those great scientists whose dis-
coveries and inventions have led up to the present highly
developed condition of apiculture, there yet remains a tribute
of praise and gratitude to the man (whoever he may have been)
who first disclosed a plan by which the bee may be subdued
and reduced to a temper so amiable as to be amenable to
handling without showing fight. For, it can hardly be doubted
that all the knowledge of bee instincts which has keen attained,

Photo from life] Fig. 72. [by J. G. Digger.
SUBDUED BEES ON EMPTY COMB.

and all the improvements in bee appliances which have been
effected in modern days, could not avail to bring the industry
to its present stage of progress had not some method been
devised for breathing a peaceful calm over the occupants of a

‘HOVIWUV ‘AUVIGV S.NVOINNVUG “LU

SSE RI
Saar ez

SUBDUING AND HANDLING BEES. 93

hive under manipulation. All honour to the man who first
discovered the tranquilising influence of smoke!

163. Unprovoked Stinging Exceptional.—It is an _ utter
fallacy which suggests that the main object, or one of the main
objects of a bee’s life, and her greatest happiness, is to drive
her sting into human flesh. The sting is her natural protec-
tion—a weapon not properly of offence, but of defence. It is
the exception, and not the rule, for the sting to be used in a
manner unprovoked. Instinct teaches the bee to employ her
weapon sparingly, because the fastening of the barbs in the
object stung often obliges the bee to retire mutilated from the
encounter. (39).

164. Fearless Defence of the Home.—-But bees, it must be
admitted, sometimes conceive extravagant notions of danger,
and, without any cause apparent to us, will attack with fury
any other living thing in their neighbourhood. In such
circumstances discretion will often prove “the better part of
valour.” Force is no remedy. Attack them with your
umbrella; a hay fork; a locomotive; a pom pom; they will beat
you. Bring up the British Army, horse, foot, and dragoons;
the bees will win the day. For behind their assault are their
queen; their brood; their home; and in defence of these they
are utterly oblivious of danger and indifferent to death. For
their fearless anger when aroused, bees have been employed
in warfare. There are cases on record in which whole
regiments have been routed by the letting loose of bees. In
Thuringia (1525) a furious mob, which had stood out against
tremendous odds, was instantly put to flight by having hives
of bees thrown among them. To the uninitiated there is some-
thing terrifying in the vicious buzzing of bees when they have
their abdomens curved for the thrust, and the very air around
them seems charged with venom. You cannot oppose your
courage to theirs, for they are not amenable to the laws of
civilised warfare, and they will fight with irresistible bravery,
and will die a thousand deaths, if need be, in defence of their
homes.

165. What Constitutes “a Master of Bees.”—Therefore it is
necessary, in order to manage bees, whether on the old
principles or the new, that one should know how to stay “the
beginning of strife,” to subdue them to his will, and to bring
them completely under control. Firmness, without aggres-
sion; gentleness, without fear; and a knowledge of their
habits, tastes and fancies, are all that are required to consti-
tute a master of bees. With such qualifications one can do
with them as one pleases; can revolutionise their kingdom;
depose their queen; regulate their enterprise; intercept their
swarms; order the manner of their industry; deprive them of

G

94 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

their stores; and, without provoking their anger, turn them
again to peaceful labour. It is not a charm that may be worked
by a privileged few. It is the application of a knowledge to
which all may readily attain.

166. Swarming Bees Harmless.—It is well known that bees
of a swarm are usually as harmless as butterflies (19). They
may be gently lifted in the hand, and dropped, bunch after
bunch, without so much as an angry buzz from them. A
gentleman carried through the noise and bustle of city streets
a swarm that had settled on his head. He walked with them
into his office, and secured them in a box. They made no
attempt to sting him. There must be some reason for this.
Visitors to a Bee Tent look with amazement upon the lecturer
driving bees from skep to skep; picking them off the combs;
remaining unmoved with bees crawling upon his neck, or
hanging to his eyebrows. The onlooker cannot understand
it. Yet it is easily explained.

Photo froma life] Fig. 73. (by J. G. Digges.
SUBDUED BEES WITH CAPPED BROOD.

_ 167. Full of Sweets—Empty of Bitterness.—Before issuing
In a swarm, it is the habit of bees to fill their honey sacs from
the stores, instinct teaching them to carry from the home, which
they are about to abandon, sufficient food with which to secrete
wax for new combs, and to support themselves in the interval
(18). In that condition they are most peaceably disposed, and

SUBDUING AND HANDLING BEES. 95

will not sting except under violent provocation. If they can,
at other times, by any means, be brought into a similar condi-
tion the same results will follow. It has been found that any
sudden, mysterious alarm communicated to all the colony ina
hive wiil drive them .to the honey cells for food. A puff or
two of smoke blown in at the entrance (126), or a carbolic cloth
(127) laid on the frames, has the necessary effect, and a peep
under the quilts will then discover the bees with their heads in
the cells, drinking deeply. A delay of a minute or two, and
the whole colony will be found subdued. With gentle handling
the frames may be taken out; examined; hung upon a stand
(Figs. 72, 73, and 77) and returned to the hive, not a bee
taking wing, nor any attempt being made to show resentment.
In this manner the fiercest colony may generally be subdued
and handled with safety. With Maeterlinck this inoffensiveness
is the result of happiness; with Simmins, of homelessness;
with Cheshire, of terror; with Langstroth, of a physiological
fact—

‘““When a bee prepares to sting, she usually curves her abdomen
so that she can drive in her sting perpendicularly. To withdraw it,
she turns around the wound. This probably rolls up its barbs, so
that it comes out more readily. If it had been driven obliquely
instead of perpendicularly, as sometimes happens, she could never
have extracted it by turning around the wound. When her stomach
is empty, a bee can curve her abdomen easily to sting. If her honey
sac is full, the rings of the abdomen are distended, and she finds
more difficulty in taking the proper position for stinging.” —Langstroth.

168. A Firm and Centle Hand Necessary.—It is known, also,
that bees resent roughness; have a deep-rooted objection to
jarring of their combs; fly into a passion if any of their
number be crushed in the hive; will not tamely submit to being
rubbed the wrong way; are provoked to violence when one
sting has been inflicted, by the mere smell of it; and will often
attack a hand for no other reason than that it has been
suddenly and quickly moved adjacent to them. Sometimes
bees noted for their peaceable disposition, will be found in an
angry humour, some unaccountable influence having dis-
turbed their wonted calm. Therefore bees should always be
handled with the utmost deliberation and care. A firm and
gentle hand is necessary. There must be no jarring of the
combs, no swiping of the handkerchief at a threatening bee.
Coolness gained by experience, together with the precautions
already, and yet to be described, will usually render the
manipulation of bees as safe as the driving of a flock of geese.
Should bees at any time show marked signs of vindictiveness,
it is better, instead of attempting to fight them, to withdraw
in a manner as quiet and dignified as possible (179). They

96 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

will probably be found, next day, in their normal condition of
amiability. To start in and fight them, may render them un-
manageable for the remainder of the season, and will certainly
lead to a precipitous flight.

“Effect of Stings.—A writer in a contemporary wants to persuade
us that formic acid is not volatile. He ought to observe its effect on
dogs, and even on the slow-footed donkey. A venerable angler,
coming too close to a concealed apiary last summer, was seen, in-
spired with marvellous energy, laying about him with his fishing-
rod—when you come to think of it, an absurd weapon for the occasion,
After that he took a five-bar gate with the agility of a youngster.
The fishing-rod was propping asters in September! We once saw a
boy scale a seven-foot wall, glazed, and drop into the street on the
other side, as it seemed from simple enthusiasm. The gate stood
open all the time within a jump of him. He had been trying to
scrape honey out of a hive entrance with a three-pronged fork.
Formic acid not volatile. Stuff and nonsense.”—Irish Bee Journal.

169. Protection for Beginners.—Beginners, and all who have
not yet gained confidence from experience, will do well to
remember that after bees in a hive have been thoroughly sub-
dued, there may be an occasional bee returning from the fields,
or dodging about the hive, which has not yet been in-
fluenced for good; and that, until it can safely be dispensed
with, a veil will prove a most useful protection for the head
and neck against the attacks of the “free lances” of the
colony (128-130). Procure a hat with a broad brim (Fig. 54);
draw the veil over it until the elastic grips the lower part of the
crown; settle the veil over the shoulders; button the coat, to
keep all secure; and see that the veil is at least the length of
a bee-sting apart from the face, ears, and neck. Next provide
against the possibility of a bee crawling up your legs, and
fasten your coat cuffs to protect your arms, for pressure of the
clothes will, certainly, cause a bee there to sting. If you find
it necessary to do so, don a pair of bee gloves, to protect your
hands and wrists (131). Thick woollen gloves, though safe, are
not desirable, because it is difficult to manipulate with them,
(132) and, although you may not be hurt, bees will often sting
them, mutilating themselves in the operation (39).
Apart from the fact that one can never afford need-
lessly to sacrifice bees, it is not humane, nor in accordance
with the principles of modern bee-keeping, to provoke them
to leave their stings in one’s apparel. Burkitt bee gloves
offer little hindrance to manipulations, and are seldom attacked
(132). It should, however, be the aim of every begin-
ner to dispense with the use of gloves as soon as possible.

SUBDUING AND HANDLING BFES. YT

A suitable attire
for ladies (fig. 74)
has been __ illus-
trated and des-
cribed in the Irish
Bee Journal as fol-
lows :—

““A white smock,
made of washing
material. It buttons
tightly round the
neck, over the veil,
and down the back,
being secured by a
belt round the waist.
The smock keeps
the dress free from
honey, vaseline, etc.,
and can be con-
stantly washed,
which is an advan-
tage if foul brood has
to be dealt with, A
pair of Burkitt gloves
are drawn over the
hands and the ends
of the sleeves, and
with a wire veil, the
stings of the bees
are defied. Of the
Burkitt gloves I can-
not speak too highly
No sting seems able
to penetrate them;
they are not clumsy
to work in; and they
give much _ confi-

Fig. 74. dence to nervous
BEE DRESS FOR LADIES. manipulators.”

170. Treatment of Stings.—If the hand be stung, and the
sting be left in the flesh, the sting should be withdrawn imme-
diately, not squeezed, but drawn out with the nail or a knife-
edge; because the reflex action will continue for some time
to inject poison into the wound if the ‘sting be not removed
(39). If a drop of ammonia be at once applied to the wound,
the pain and swelling may occasionally be reduced; and if
the spot be touched with the carbolic feather (176), the bees
will not be excited to further attack by the smell of the sting

98 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

poison (168). External applications, however, cannot be relied
upon to neutralise the injected poison. If, when the sting has
been removed, the part stung be not rubbed, but pinched with
the finger and thumb until, on loosing it, the pain does not
return, little trouble will be experienced. It generally follows
that, when one has been frequently stung, one becomes safe
from pain and swelling as results of stings. Further, there
is much testimony to the fact that such ailments as rheuma-
tism are alleviated and even cured by a sufficient application of
the sting of the bee; so that the pain of the sting is not with-
out its compensation.

“T am a firm believer in the efficacy of stings as a cure for rheuma-
tism. Shortly after my recovery from rheumatic fever, a lady pre-
sented me with an entire apiary, and in the transfer of the stocks I
got a ‘murthering’ of stings, and, though I had been subject to rheuma-
tism for years previously, I never, since that stinging, felt a twinge
of it.”’—T. B. O’Bryen, in the Zrish Bee Journal,

is

‘he # x
tu bys J. G. Digges.
Bes USING THE SMOKER. Wie. Laas

MANIPULATING. 99

MISS W. SEADON (AGED 7 YEARS) DRIVING BEBS.

CHAPTER XVIII.
MANIPULATING.

171. Appliances Required.—Before opening a hive for mani-
pulation, be careful to have at hand everything that you may
require. A smoker (126), a carbolic cloth (127), a small table
that can be carried from hive to hive, a comb stand (172) to
hold frames of foundation and frames removed from the hive,
a comb box (173), a dinner knife, a wing or soft brush, a pot of
vaseline or petroleum jelly (174) are all useful articles.

172. The Comb Stand (Fig.
75), is intended to hold frames
when a hive is being manipu-
lated (185). It is often neces-
sary temporarily to remove
one or more frames from a
hive when operations are in
progress; and it is always
useful, when working at hives,
to have spare combs at hand
in convenient position. The
stand shown holds _ three
frames on each side. It is
2! 6” high, and the carriers,
fastened on the legs, are 14}”

100 THE PRACIrICAL BEE GUIDE.

apart. The stand can be carried about the apiary, and sct
down where required, without danger of breaking the combs
or of injuring the bees that may be upon them. Its usefulness
may be further observed on referring to the illustration facing
page 80, and to figures 72, 73, 77 and 97.

173. Comb BoOxXx.—When
combs are being transferred,
removed for extraction, or car-
ried about the apiary, it is ad-
visable, in order to minimise
the risk of robbing (308) to
have a comb box in which they
can be placed. The comb box
illustrated (Fig. 76), is inter-
nally 173” long x 93” deep x
9” wide. Two carriers are
nailed at the ends inside, 1”
from the top, to take the
shoulders of the frames. A handle is fixed on the lid, and a
cone escape (273) permits the exit of any bees that may have
been shut inside.

Fig. 76.—COMB BOX.

174. Vaseline, or Petroleum Jelly, is applied to the shoulders
of frames, to the carriers on which they rest, and to the
bottoms of crates, etc., to prevent the propolising of them by
the bees (266). It is so desirable to have all hive fittings easy
of removal, without jarring, that the application of vaseline or
petroleum jelly should never ‘be omitted by the bee-keeper who
desires to perform his manipulations without needlessly pro-
voking his bees (168). The material, which is inexpensive,
may be applied with a small paste brush.

175. Preparing the Smoker.—The smoker (126) should be
in good order, and the fuel prepared beforehand, for it is most
disconcerting to have the smoker give out when operations
are in progress. Almost any dry fuel that will burn may be
used—dry, rotten wood, rag, or brown paper. Put a couple
cf quarts of hot water into a bowl; dissolve in it, say, one or
two ounces of saltpetre; soak a quantity of brown paper in
the liquid, and when dry, cut it in strips about four inches
wide. Roll one of the strips loosely; light one end, and put
it into the smoker, lighted end down. Small rolls of dry brown
paper may be added from time to time as the fuel in the
smoker becomes exhausted.

176. Preparing the Carbolic Cloth (127).—Procure from any
chemist a bottle with an asperser cork. In this make a solu-
tion of 1 part Calvert’s No. 5 Carbolic Acid to 10 parts water.
Take a piece of ticking, calico, or linen, say 24” x 18”, which,

MANIPULATING. 101

in sume operations, may be more conveniently used if pre-
pared like a flag (127). Shake the bottle and thoroughly damp
the cloth with the solution. Sprinkle a little also on the
feather. Put cloth and feather into a tight-fitting tin box that
they may retain the odour.

177. Opening the Hive.—Go, now, to the hive which you
want to examine. Blow one or two puffs of smoke through the
entrance, into the hive, remembering that your object is not
to half smother the bees, but just to send them to dinner. Rap
smartly with your knuckles on the sides and roof; set down
your smoker, nozzle up, so that it may draw like a chimney ;
take out your carbolic cloth and feather, and wait for a minute
before proceeding further. Then place the feather half its
length into the en-
trance, to put a
stop on the bees
there; and_ re-
move the roof and
quilts, leaving only
the sheet on the
frames or super.
By this time the
bees will have
gorged themselves
into good humour.
Your position will
now depend upon
the arrangement
of the frames in
the hive. If they
hang at right
angles tothe front,
stand at the side;
if they hang par-
allel to the front,

take your position
DRAWING ON CARBOLIC CLOTH. at the back. Hold
the carbolic cloth by the lath, if one has been inserted (127), or
by two corners, and let it hang down outside the hive at the
side opposite to you. Pick up the corners of the sheet, and
slowly draw it back upon itself towards you, so bringing the
carbolic cloth over the frames as illustrated. Not one bee will
get out if you do this carefully. Instantly the bees will begin
to make music—a peaceful symphony which may encourage
you. Remove the cloth, or roll it back off two or three frames—
you will find the bees with their heads in the cells, or moving
about in a bewildered fashion, gentle as lambs, and disposed

102 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

to treat you with every courtesy if only you reciprocate their
gentility.

178. Manipulating Wicked Stocks.—In the case of a wicked
stock of Natives (46), Cyprians (49) or Syrians (50) the sub-
duing may require to be of a more thorough-going nature.
Give three or four puffs of smoke at the entrance, and close
the doors; with your shut fists drum on the roof for half a
minute ; open the doors, and give more smoke; and drum again
for half a minute. After three or four minutes draw on the
carbolic cloth, and the bees will probably be found perfectly
subdued. Keep the smoker at hand, to drive them back if they
should show a desire to boil over.

179. Forcing the Pace.—In the event of a usually quiet
stock proving unruly, as will occasionally occur (168), suspend
operations at once, and withdraw. Give them time to calm
down, and try them again on the next day. Bees, like mortals,
sometimes “get their dander up,” and probably with better
reason. They may have been fighting robber bees (310):
they may scent rain in the distance: they may have been pro-
voked by some interfering man or beast—you cannot always
tell. But it will be better to let them “sleep upon it” than,
by forcing the pace and persevering in your manipulation, to
run the risk of turning them into demons for the rest of the
season.

180. Smoking Overdone.—It must, however, be said, that
with our Native bees (46), Italians (47) or Carniolans (48)
elaborate preliminaries to manipulation are not often neces-
sary. When you have gained experience, and have learned
how to do it, you will frequently find yourself able to open and
manipulate a hive without the aid of smoke or carbolic, though
these should always be at hand in case of any emergency. In
the honey season, thoroughly smoking a colony puts a stop to
the gathering of nectar, probably for the rest of the day. The
honey that has been gorged has to be disgorged into the cells
when you have finished operations. If you stand aside and
observe, you will find that nothing like the same energy is
displayed at the entrance, and if you weigh the hive next morn-
ing, it will be seen that the average increase has been
suspended; and that a loss of from 5 lb. to 10 lb. of honey has
been incurred. Therefore, smoking should never be overdone;
and for simple operations, such as putting on or taking off a
super, it is seldom necessary at all (266), nor, indeed, unless
the brood nest is to be disturbed, or the hive manipulated at
unsuitable hours.

181. No Food—No Subjugation.—It must also be added that
the use of smoke for quieting bees presupposes the existence of

MANIPULATING. 103

food in the hive. With the best intentions possible, bees can-
not gorge themselves with smoke. If, therefore, there be no
food in the hive upon which they can feed liberally, warm
syrup may be given. The carbolic cloth can be drawn over the
frames as described above, and in a few seconds the syrup
may be lightly sprinkled between the combs, the smoker being
applied subsequently.

182. Examining the Combs: Finding the Queen.—Having
subdued the bees, as described, you may proceed to examine
the combs. You must remember that the space between the
frame ends and the hive is not more than 3”, perhaps only 3",
perhaps less; and that if you draw out a frame carelessly you
run the risk of crushing bees, and even of killing the queen,
if she happens to be on one of the ends of the frame (83). Draw
back the dummy (94) as far as it will go. Draw back the
frames together from the centre frame, 7.e.—if there are nine
frames in the hive draw back Nos. 1 to 4 together, and very

Photo from life} Fig. 77. [oy J. G. Digges
SUBDUED BEES, WITH CAPPED WORKER AND DRONE BROOD.

slowly, so that the bees on the ends may have time to get out
of the way of danger. If you have, up to this, kept the carbolic
cloth on the frames, and have kept daylight out of the hive,
the queen will probably be found on the centre frame; but if
you have flooded the brood-nest with light, she will have made
off to the front or the back frames. Take the centre frame

104 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

by the shoulders, in your fingers, and lift it vertically over the
hive. Turn your back to the strongest light, and examine the
side of the frame next to you. If the queen is there you will
recognise her by her length, and shape, and colour (4). She
is longer than the worker bee; thin for her length; with her
abdomen pointed ; and somewhat darker in tint than the others.
If young, she will show her activity by “dodging” from one
side to the other of the frame. If she be on that frame, it will
be well to return it to the hive, lest she take wing, and give
trouble; in which case you must remain perfectly still and
await her return. (See also 185b, page 107.)

183. The Combs Described.—Your frame, upon examination
in the summer season, will probably be found to contain honey,
capped and uncapped, capped brood, uncapped larve, eggs,
some empty cells, and perhaps a little pollen (Fig. 14). Bees
store their honey over their brood. The cells, therefore, next the
top bar,—cells capped with light coloured wax, contain ripe
honey. Next to them will be found unripe honey, not yet
capped. Lower down on the comb, cells with a dark capping

Fig. 78.
COMB AND QUEEN CELLS.
(Magnified twice.)
a, Queen cell, cut to expose “‘ Royal Jelly’? and Grub at upper end; 6, Thick-
ness of cell; c, Dimpling outside cell; d, Spot where bowel contents and
exuvium are placed.

of wax and pollen contain hatching brood, the wax being mixed
with pollen to render the cappings porous. Some of these
capped cells stand out from the comb beyond the others (Fig.
77), and have a larger diameter; they contain drone brood (Fig.

MANIPULATING. 105

14, D). Perhaps one or two cone-shaped cells appear, hanging
down; these are queen cells (Fig. 78 and Fig. 14, page 36).
Close at hand open cells will show the larve, pearly white,
in various stages of development (Fig. 78). And others have
eggs (189), like little bits of blue-white thread, on the bases
of the cells. Some of the eggs stand out at right angles
from the comb; these are one day old: others bend over
towards the base; these are two days old: others lie upon the
bases of the cells; these are three days old, and are just about
to produce larve. Other cells, capped and uncapped, contain
pollen, or “bee bread,” of various hues. As bees store pollen
near the entrance, brood in the middle, and honey at the back,
if your frames run from front to back, you may find pollen,
brood, and honey in the same comb; while if the frames run
from side to side of the hive, pollen will probably be found in

Photo from. life] i {by J. G. Digges.
Fig. 79.

“THUMPING” BEES OFF A COMB.

the combs next the entrance, honey in those at the back, and
brood, with honey higher up, on the other frames.

184. Removing Bees from Combs.—To get bees off a comb,
it is sometimes advised that they be jerked off or brushed off.
They may be jerked off if one keeps on jerking long enough,
but the second jerk often puts bees on the wing, and leads to
mischief. They may be brushed off with a goose wing, or a
strong feather, but, though bees will often submit meekly to a
brush that meets them in the face, if it take them the other

106 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

way—(as it must, since they are on the frame heads and tails)-—
they are apt to rise to the occasion in a manner that does not
always appear to the operator to be quite justified by the
circumstances. Thereis another plan. Hold the frame firmly
by one of the shoulders in your left hand, keeping it a few
inches over the hive (Fig. 79). Now, with your right fist give
a sharp thump on your left hand. To the bees it will be like
an earthquake, and a thing irresistible. They will drop, to a
bee, and scamper down among the other frames as if the end
of their world had come. Of course, if you let the frame drop,
the “earthquake” may possibly astonish yourself. Keep a
good grip, and never employ jerking or thumping with a frame
that has upon it a queen cell, or much unsealed honey,

_185. Turning Combs.—To examine the comb on the other
side, you must not turn it up as you would a slate. A comb
so used, especially if new, or heavy with honey, may drop from
the frame, or sag, and break; or may drop honey out of the
cells. Therefore, whether the combs to be handled be old or
new, wired or not wired (262), make it your rule to turn them
in this manner—

7

Ke
iL.

Fig. 80.
TURNING A FRAME,

MANIPULATING. 107

Hold the frame by the shoulders (Fig. 80, 1): raise your left
hand, bringing the frame into the position shown (2): give
the frame a half turn, like a swinging door, bringing the off
side next yourself (3): then lower the left hand into the position
shown (4). Reverse these movements to bring the frame back
to position 1, Fig. 80. If the queen is not upon it, you may
now hang it on the comb stand (172) and proceed to examine
the other combs. In all these operations, act with delibera-
tion; move your hands slowly; avoid pinching bees with your
fingers or crushing them in the hive; and do not jar the frames
when putting them back, nor kick the hive legs with your feet.
If the bees show signs of getting from under control, draw
the carbolic cloth over the frames again, or blow a puff of
smoke along the frame tops. When you have finished your
inspection, replace the frames, shoulder to shoulder; draw up
the dummy; put on the sheet and quilts and roof; and, if the
bees have not already thrown it out of the entrance, remove
the carbolised feather.

185b. Searching for the Queen.—In the fascinating game of
hide and seek with the queen (182), there are yet other rules to
be observed. For example, a comb on which the queen may
be, when lifted out for inspection, should be held over the hive,
so that in the event of her falling off she may drop safely into
her home. Combs containing brood should not be hung upon
the comb stand (172) for any length of time in chilly weather
lest the brood be injured (338). Combs containing much
unsealed honey should not have their adhering bees removed
by jerking or thumping (184), for this would throw out the
honey and do damage to the bees (36). Stand with your back
to the sun, and as each frame is withdrawn scan the exposed
faces of the combs in the hive, for her majesty may be scam-
pering there towards the darker side. Part any cluster of bees
on the frame in your hands, the queen may be hidden there.
If still she baffles you, and if it be necessary to find her there
and then, either of the following methods may be tried :—
Place a hiving board in position (233), a piece of excluder zinc
(109) on the hive entrance, and a dummy (93) inside near the
hive front. Lift out the frames one by one and thump, or
brush, every bee on to the hiving board, moving back the
dummy and returning the frames in front of it as they are
cleared; when the excluder stops the queen entering you will
have her. Or, procure a super box (108) or any bottomless
box about the size of the hive, invert it, and brush every bee
into it from frames, hive, and floorboard; set up the hive
again with the frames in position; place an excluder on the
box, set the latter on the frames, with the excluder between,
thump on the lid to throw the bees down, then raise the
lid and spread a carbolic cloth (127) over the box; the bees will
quickly run down to the frames, except the queen and drones,
which will be trapped above the excluder.

Tl

108 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XIX.
BREEDING.

186. Breeding begins.—Breeding in the hive generally
begins towards the end of January (8), perhaps somewhat
earlier in a mild season. Moving quite slowly upon the centre
combs, the queen, examining the cells and inserting her
abdomen, deposits her eggs upon the bases—one egg in each
cell, confining herself at first to a small area, and increasing
the areas as the season advances; passing from comb to
comb, and returning to the cells according as they become
vacant through the hatching of the young bees. If, on account
of the smallness of the cluster, or the infirmity of the queen,
more than one egg be laid in each cell, the workers will
generally remove the superfluous eggs.

187. “Congestion” to be guarded against.—A comb com-
pletely filling a standard frame contains 104 superficial square
inches on each side, or 208 superficial square inches in all.
Worker cells measure 27 to 29 to the square inch (66). Taking
them as 28 to the square inch, we have 5,824 worker cells in
the comb of a standard frame. Given sufficient room and
favourable circumstances, a queen in her prime, laying at the
rate of 3,000 eggs per day (4), or 90,000 eggs per month, might
occupy with eggs more than half of such a comb per day;
and nearly 16 complete combs per month. But the eggs
deposited on the first day of the period will hatch out, and the
cells become vacant, on the 22nd day (204). Assuming that
the queen returns always to the cells as soon as they become
vacant, she might, at the rate of 3,000 eggs per day, have filled
113} complete combs in the twenty-two days before she returns
to the former cells. From which calculation it will be seen
that, in the height of the season, and with a queen in her prime,
the increase of the colony will be very rapid; and that, in a
hive containing no more than to or 11 standard frames, and
with from 30,000 to 50,000 bees depositing honey in the cells,
the queen may very quickly find herself hampered for room,
and that “congestion ” supervene which produces the “ swarm-
ing fever” (216). It follows that, where the largest possible
harvest of honey is desired in preference to an increase in the
number of colonies by natural swarming, the bee-keeper must

BREEDING. 109

so arrange that the queen shall always have more room than
she actually requires for the depositing of her eggs, and that
the bees shall have, at the same time, sufficient room for the
storing of honey. This is what is referred to by the frequent
advice to “give room in advance of requirements,” so that
congestion shall not provoke swarming, and thus disorganise,
in the middle of the honey flow, the work of the colony. (216).

188. Drone-breeding Queens.—Until the approach of the
swarming season, the queen lays only impregnated, t.e., worker
eggs: after which drone cells are prepared, and in them she
deposits unimpregnated, 7.e., drone eggs. A queen in her fourth
or fifth year will sometimes, however, become a “ drone-
breeder”: the supply of fertilising material in the spermatheca
(45) having become exhausted, she is no longer able to fertilise
her eggs; and, though she may continue to lay in both worker
and drone cells, the produce from both will be drones only—
dwarf drones, if reared in the celis intended for worker larve.
Such a queen should be supplanted at once; in fact, after her
second year, a queen ceases to be profitable, and her place
should be taken by a young, fertile queen (281-2). A hive
which shows too large a proportion of drone brood should be
re-queened without delay.

189. Age of Larve.—From Dr. E. F. Phillips, in Gleanings,
we have the following data
for judging the ages of
larve. Just hatched, a
straight line from head to
tail is 4th the diameter of
the cell; one day old, 4rd,
the form semi-circular ; two
Fig. 81. days, head touches tail in

EGGS AND BROOD. a circle nearly 4 the cell
a, Eggs, natural size; 0, Eggs magnified; diameter ; three days, it
¢, Larva, natural size; d, Nymph, natural occupies #th; four days, it
size. fills the entire diameter of
the cell. To be able to tell the age of egg (183) and larva is
very desirable, especially when arrangements are being made
for queen rearing. (293).

190. Worker Brood.—During the first three days the germ
feeds upon the substance of the egg; and, hatching on the
fourth day into a small white grub, it is supplied by the nurses
with a food elaborated for the purpose in the stomachs of the
nurses. After about three or four days more, a mixture of
semi-digested honey and pollen is added to the food. On the
ninth day from the laying of the egg, in the case of worker
brood, the cell, well supplied with food, is sealed with a porous
capping consisting of a mixture of wax and pollen; the larva
(Fig. 81, c) spins a cocoon, casts off one skin after another,

110 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

and becomes a pupa or nymph (Fig. 81, d), gradually becom-
ing transformed into a perfect bee; in which condition, on
the twenty-second day, she bites the capping and gains her
liberty. The cell is at once cleaned and prepared for the
reception of another egg. Twenty-four hours later the young
bee begins her life-work by acting as a nurse to the larve in
their cells; a few more days elapse before she flies from the
hive; and, about thirty-six days after the laying of the egg,
and fourteen days after her exit from the cell, she begins the
work of foraging (204), which work, arduous as it is, will
exhaust her energies and bring about her death in five or six
weeks of summer.

191. New Combs for Breeding.—The adhering to the cell
walls of the cocoons spun by the larve (190) tends to reduce
the size of the cells, and eventually to render them unsuitable
for the rearing of vigorous bees (73). It is said that combs
quite twenty years old have been found capable of producing
bees as large and as strong as those reared in new combs;
but it is not desirable to retain combs so long for breeding
purposes, and modern bee-keeping favours frequent renewal
of combs in the brood nest, for the reason indicated, and also
upon principles of hygiene. Three or four frames of founda-
tion given to a colony every year, thus renewing the combs
every third year, fulfills a rule that is well worthy of general
observance.

192. Stimulating in Spring.—For the rearing of larve, pollen
(74), liquid food, and a temperature of from 80° to go® are
required. To assist the nurse bees, and to encourage the
queen to increase the circles of her brood, the bee-keeper
begins “stimulative feeding” (313) early in the spring, and
also adds fresh, warm wraps to preserve the heat of the hive.
A cake of flour candy is given over the cluster (324). Later
on, once or twice a week, the sheet is quietly rolled off the tops
of one or two frames, and the cappings of some of the honey
cells are scratched, or bruised, to entice the bees, and to cause
them to use the honey. This can be done without removing
the frames or disturbing the bees. If the carbolic feather (176)
be passed between the combs, the bees will move down before
it, and, with the flat of a knife, cappings can be bruised so as
to expose the honey, which will stimulate the queen and bees
to fresh efforts. A feeder (119) is placed on the frames directly
over the brood nest, and each evening, when the bees have
ceased flying, a small quantity of thin syrup—no more than
the bees will take down during the night—is given warm,
the doors of the hive being closed to about half-inch space to
prevent robbing (310). In some districts natural pollen is so
plentiful early in the spring that bees will not use artificial

BREEDING. 111

pollen. But if they cannot procure the former, the latter must
be given (320). Pea flour makes an excellent substitute for
natural pollen. It may be dredged into the vacant cells of an
outside frame and placed beside the brood combs (183); it
may be dropped into the blossoms of crocus or other spring
flowers adjacent to the hives; or it may be exposed in the
aplary, in a small box, protected from rain, and upon it may
be laid a few straws on which the bees may alight. The effect
of a good supply of pollen in the spring is often very remark-
able. Forming, as it does, a very necessary ingredient of bee
food, it stimulates brood rearing and adds an air of busy
industry to the whole apiary, with results very desirable to the
bee-keeper who wishes to have his colonies built up to full
strength before the opening of the honey flow (255).

_ “An Experiment.—I am the happy owner of a small garden. In
it grow many plants and shrubs, and some fruit trees. Among thom
are a companion pair of pretty daphne shrubs. It is natural to
them to come forth in full bloom at the end of February, while there
is not yet a leaf to shelter their bare branches. Just at that time we
got a few warm sunny days, and forth from every hive came myriads
of delighted workers. The air was thick with them, and a few con-
descended to test the nectaries of the daphne flowers; but the aerial
dance of the others was too entrancing to permit their following the
lowly example set them. I fancied that this was a good opportunity
for the distribution of artificial pollen, and procured a supply of flour,
which I dredged over the shrubs. Immediately the shrubs became
two living bouquets. Never did I witness such a desire for hard
work; and in quite a little time bees were returning to their hives
with pellets of pollen as soft as floss. I repeated the experiment twice
a day while the warm weather lasted, and I have no doubt but this
aided to bring my stocks into the congested condition they now are
in, the majority calling visibly for supers at the end of April.”—M. J.
O’Doherty, in the Zrish Bee Journal.

Under such treatment breeding will proceed apace. And, to
still further hasten the growth of the colonies, the operation of

“spreading the brood” is resorted to.

193. Spreading the Brood.—Spreading the brood consists in
enlarging the brood nest by the insertion, in the centre of
it, of frames of drawn out comb, or of comb foundation.
This is an operation which should not be attempted by inex-
perienced bee-kcepers. It must not be recklessly performed,
nor without due regard to the strength of the colony; because,
if the brood nest be enlarged beyond the covering capacity of
the bees, brood will be chilled, and much mischief may ensue
(338). But, where wisely and carefully carried out, the effect
of spreading the brood is to quickly increase the strength of
the colony. For, the queen, finding vacant cells in the centre

112 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

of the brood nest, will deposit eggs in them at a period of
the year when she would not be likely to travel to the colder,
outer combs for the purpose. As a gencral rule brood spread-
ing may be considered safe when, the weather being warm and
the nights no longer chilly, the space between the outside
comb and the dummy (93) is found to be occupied by bees.
In this case, if the outside comb be suitable for brood rearing,
t.e., a Straight, well-built comb, not overstocked with pollen,
and preferably containing some honey, it may be used for the
purpose. The carbolic cloth (127) is drawn over the frames,
and, without exposing the brood nest to cold winds, the dummy
and the frames between it and the centre of the brood nest,
are gently drawn back together a couple of inches; the dummy
is then moved back a little farther, and the outside frame is
lifted out (182). If it contain capped honey, the cappings are
broken, and the frame is placed in the centre of the brood
nest; the frames and dummy are closed up, and the sheets,
quilts, and roof are placed in position as before. The operation
may be repeated from week to week; frames of drawn out
comb being used, until the brood chamber is filled with brood.
In the absence of drawn out combs, frames of foundation may
be used; but it is not advisable in the spring, when every
day is of importance, to put upon the bees the necessity for
comb building, thus delaying the increase of brood which
might otherwise be expedited. Careful bee-keepers make it a
rule to have always on hand a supply of drawn out combs for
this purpose (317). Later in the season, and especially in the
summer, combs or frames of foundation should be given in the
brood nest as opportunity offers. (217).

“During summer, whenever a fairly strong stock is opened for
any purpose (such as putting on or taking off sections) a frame should
be put in the centre. This is a golden rule.”—T. B. O’Bryen.

194. Drone Brood.—Towards the middle of May, when, in
normal seasons, swarming may be expected, the bees construct
drone cells (67). These will be readily recognised by their
size, being deeper than the worker celis, and 3” in diameter,
whereas worker cells are only +” in diameter; the cappings
of the former standing out beyond the cappings of worker
cells (Fig. 14, F, page 36). The drone egg, like the worker egg,
hatches in three days, and the grub is fed up to the ninth day
from the laying of the egg; when, the cell is sealed, the spinning
of the cocoon takes place, the change from larva to nymph,
and on the twenty-fifth day the young drone makes his way
out of his cell. About a fortnight later he leaves the hive for
flight. (204).

BREEDING. 113

195. Controlling Drone Rearing.—The rearing of drones
may be limited by the use of foundation prepared for worker
brood, and may be encouraged by the use of drone-brood
foundation (113). It will, however, be found that, except in
the case of a new swarm, if the former pattern be cut, or
broken, or supplied in the frames as “ starters” instead of
in full sheets, drone cells will be attached to it in large
numbers (110). To avoid the extravagant rearing of drones,
worker foundation is used in full sheets in all the frames of
the brood nest, and the sheets are wired into the frames (117)
so that they may not easily become sagged, or broken in the
hive or extractor.

196. Queen Cells.—At the approach of the swarming season,
if the queen and the rapidly increasing population of the hive
become pressed for room; at any time when a colony has been
deprived of its queen; or when the bees desire to supplant an
old queen whose fertility has ceased, queen cells are started
on the combs (71). These are distinguished from all other
cells by the material of which they are made, and by their
size, shape, and position (Fig. 14, A, B, C, page 36).
They are constructed of a mixture of wax and pollen;
are about 1” long x }” in diameter, are in shape like an acorn,
and they hang mouth downwards on the combs. The bees
construct queen cells on the face of a comb by breaking down
the cells immediately surrounding those containing the eggs
from which queens are to be reared. At other times queen
cells are made on the sides, or the bottoms of the combs; and,
when the queen does not deposit eggs in them, bees have
been known to carry eggs to them from other cells, lengthen-
ing the queen cells as the process of feeding the grub proceeds.
The number of queen cells constructed by a colony of native,
or black bees may vary from two to ten or twelve. Other races
frequently exceed those figures. Syrian bees (50) will some-
times provide as many as thirty queen cells on one comb,
and it is said that more than seventy queen cells have been
found in one colony of Syrians. The cells are not all started
on the same day, the object being to have the young queens
hatch out in succession. In a case of emergency, arising
when a colony has been deprived of its queen, if the bees have
worker eggs available, or larve not more than three days old,
t.e., not already weaned (190), they will construct a queen cell
around the selected egg or larva. Should they have no worker
egg, or larva under four days old, they will, in a desperate
effort to retrieve disaster, form queen cells here and there at
random, and even around drone larve.. The latter cells, which
may be distinguished from regular queen cells by their smooth
walls (Fig. 14, G, page 36) cannot, of course, produce anything

114 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

but drones—drones which, perhaps by reason of their too
generous nursing, frequently die in their cells.

197. Nursing Queen Larve.—There is not any difference
between the egg which produces a queen bee and that which
produces a worker bee. But the treatment in the process of
nursing varies considerably. The larva, in the former case, is
given a cell which permits of its growth to the full dimensions
of a queen, and is more liberally supplied with food—food of
a richer quality, called “Royal Jelly” to distinguish it from
the food provided for other larvcze: and, whereas the larva of
the worker bee is weaned three days after it has left the egg,
and is then supplied with a coarser food (190), the larva ina
queen cell continues to receive abundantly the Royal jelly.
Leuckart discovered that the development of the female genital
organs begins upon the third day after hatching. This
development continues under the liberal treatment referred to,
and the produce is a mature female or queen; or ceases with
the withdrawal of the stimulating food, when the result is an
immature female, or worker. It follows that, for the produc-
tion of a vigorous queen, the special treatment should begin
with the egg, or at least before the larva has passed its third
day.

198. Wonderful Effects of Special Nursing.—The effects
upon the larva of this continued supply of richer food, are
among the most wonderful in the history of bee life. The
larva which, in the ordinary course of nature, we should expect
to arrive at maturity by slower stages, reaches its full growth
in about two-thirds of the time occupied by the worker larva
(204). The young queen has her organs fully developed, so
that, when fertilised, she can, during the ordinary span of
queen life, produce impregnated eggs to the extent of 100
times her own weight; while the worker can never, by any
means, produce an impregnated egg (200). In colour, shape,
and size, she differs materially from the worker, being darker,
more delicately formed, and with greater length (4). Her
sting is longer, and curved (41). Her hind legs are without
corbiculz (34). Her abdomen is without wax secreting recep-
tacles (37). Her eyes have only about 10,000 facets, as against
the 12,000 facets of the worker (30). Her habits and instincts
are, in many respects, the opposite of those of the worker—
she confines herself to the duty of egg laying, never leaving
the darkness of the hive after her wedding flight, except when
accompanying a swarm: she is not disposed to sting even if
molested by the bee-keeper: far from sharing the worker’s
deep-rooted reverence for the person of a queen, she shows
a bitter hostility to all others of her own rank, and will fight

BREEDING. 116

to the death against a rival queen. She may live for four or
five years; whereas the worker’s life is limited to about six
weeks, except in the case of workers born at the close of
autumn, and surviving through the winter rest to labour for
a few weeks in the spring. So marvellous are the develop-
ments brought about by the simple process of feeding.

199. Queen Brood.—The egg from which a queen is to be
reared, like the egg which is to produce a worker, hatches in
three days; for six days more it continues in its larval state;
it then spins its cocoon, is transformed into a nymph, and, on
the sixteenth day from the laying of the egg, it emerges a
perfect virgin queen. The vacant cell is never employed again
for queen rearing, but is cut down usually within a few hours
(71) as shown, Fig. 14, C, H, page 36. Soon the young queen
begins her search over the combs for a rival, and if permitted,
she will destroy the unhatched virgin queens in their cells.
(20). A few days later, if the weather be favourable, she
leaves the hive for impregnation. (204).

“Hardly had ten minutes olapsed after the young queen emerged
from her cell, when she began to look for sealed queen-cells. She
rushed furiously upon the first that she met, and, by dint of hard
work, made a small opening in the end. We saw her drawing, with
her mandibles, the silk of the cocoon, which covered the inside. But,
probably, she did not succeed according to her wishes, for she left the
lower end of the cell, and went to work on the upper end, where she
finally made a wider opening (Fig. 14, B). As soon as this was suffi-
ciently large, she turned about, to push her abdomen into it. She
made several motions, in different directions, till she succeeded in
striking her rival with the deadly sting. Then she left the cell; and
the bees, which had remained, so far, perfectly passive, began to en-
large the gap which she had made, and drew out the corpse of a
queen just out of her nymphal shell. During this time, the victorious
young queen rushed to another queen-cell, and again made a large
opening, but she did not introduce her abdomen into it; this second
cell containing only a royal-pupa not yet formed. There is some pro-
bability that, at this stage of development, the nymphs of queens
inspire less anger to their rivals; but they do not escape their doom;
for whenever a queen cell has been prematurely opened, the bees
throw out its occupant, whether worm, nymph, or queen. Therefore,
as soon as the victorious queen had left this second cell, the workers
enlarged the opening and drew out the nymph that it contained.
The young queen rushed to a third cell; but she was unable to
open it. She worked languidly and seemed tired of her first efforts.”
—Huber.

200. Laying Workers.—Although, as already stated (198),
the worker bee is incapable of being impregnated, there are
occasionally found, in a queenless hive, one or more workers
whose ovaries, partially developed, contain a certain quantity

116 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

of eggs (Fig. 11, C). Huber supposed that these laying workers
were the produce of eggs deposited in cells adjacent to qucen
cells, and that they had received a smaller quantity of royal jelly.
Possibly they are either workers which, in the early stage of
development, were not weaned until after the third day, and
whose organs have been partially developed by reason of the
excess allowance of the richer food which they have received ;
or, workers which, in the larval state, were, at an age over three
days, selected for special treatment by a queenless colony, and
thus, in the earlier stages of the larval growth, were deprived
of the liberal treatment necessary for the production of
perfect queens (197). It is very rarely that a laying worker
is tolerated in a colony which has a prolific queen. But,
in colonies which are queenless, and which have neither
eggs nor young larve from which to raise queens,
laying workers are occasionally found, and sometimes in large
numbers. Their eggs, being unimpregnated, produce drones
only. Their presence in a hive is indicated by the irregular
manner in which their eggs are deposited, several being fre-
quently found in one cell, and cells with eggs appearing side
by side with cells containing drone larve, whereas a fertile
queen lays her eggs very regularly, as shown above. (Fig.
77, page 103).

201. Removing Laying Workers.—Laying workers must be
got rid of, or the colony must perish. If a comb containing
eggs from another hive be given to the colony, and if the
bees can be induced to raise a queen, or queens, from those
eggs, the laying workers will be destroyed so soon as a young
queen begins to lay in the hive. But, where a laying worker
has been in possession for some time, the bees of the colony
are often indisposed to rear a queen from eggs supplied to
them, and will refuse to do so while the laying worker remains
in the hive. This difficulty may sometimes be overcome by
altering the position of the hive for a few days; then remov-
ing all the bees, carrying them to a distance of 100 or 200
yards, and shaking them down there upon a sheet or board;
when, the laying workers, unfamiliar with the new position
of the hive, will fail to find it, while the other bees, except the
useless young drones, will return to the hive, and will raise
a queen from eggs supplied to them. Beside the fact that
a colony long queenless will be short of, and perhaps destitute
of nurse bees, this remedy entails a loss of some weeks before
the young queen can begin laying, and of over two months
before her progeny can supply the place of the dwindling
workers of the colony; and it can be adopted (so far as queen
tearing is concerned) only when there are drones flying to
fertilise the young queen. The speediest, and the best remedy

BREEDING. 117

is to introduce a young fertile queen (295). But, if a fertile
queen cannot be procured, the colony may be united to another,
or may be broken up, and divided among other stocks having
fertile queens.

202. Stimulating in Autumn.—The bee-keeper, knowing that
the success of the colony in the ensuing year will depend
largely upon its going into winter quarters with a large supply
of young bees, begins to stimulate again by supplying warm
syrup, a little each evening, from the termination of the honey
flow until about the middle of September (314). In this way
queen and bees are induced to keep up the numbers of the
colony, and the danger of a scarcity of food is lessened.

203. Breeding Ceases.—When, with advancing autumn, the
flow of nectar diminishes, the drones are destroyed (24); the
daily deposit of eggs by the queen lessens (25), occupies fewer
combs, and smaller circles, as the cluster of bees draws towards
the centre of the hive; and finally, in November, or earlier if
the season prove very inclement, it ceases altogether. In very
mild seasons, and in a hive well supplied with stores, the
queen will sometimes continue to lay well into December.

204. Metamorphosis of Bees.—The following data are sup-
ported by common experience of the metamorphosis, etc., of
bees. But it must be understood that the figures and the
dates given are only approximate, and are variable according
to the strength of the colony, the heat of the hive, and the
condition of the weather:

TIME OCCUPIED FROM THE LAYING OF THE EGG.

Queen |} Worker. | Drone.

Incubation of the egg ies sevlib 3 8 | Days
Feeding of the larva eer wo 9 5 6 »
Cell sealed on the ote .. | 9th 9th 9th | Day
Spinning cocoon ab oso oe 1 2 3 | Days
Interval of inaction ... * aoa 2 3 3 +9
pak from larva to nymph 1 1 1 af

, from nymph to exit as perfect insect 3 7 9 ”
Bee evacuates the cell on the .. | 16th | 22nd | 25th | Day
Interval spent chiefly in the hive ww | 5 14 14 Days
Bee flies freely from the hive on the ... | 2Ist | 36th | 39th | Day

Interval between issue of top Swarm and issue of Ist Cast ... 9 Days.
1st Cast and 2nd Cast ... Oo sea 93
2nd, 3rd and 4th Casts ... we «. 1 Day.

” ”
” ”

118 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XxX.
SWARMING.

205. Natural Swarming.—Natural swarming may occur upon
any fine day from the middle of spring to the middle of
autumn, as the condition of the colony may demand. As a
general rule, swarms may be looked for from the end of May,
or in a very favourable season, from the closing days of April,
up to the termination of the honey flow. For profit during the
season, early swarms are, of course, most in demand (152),
because, if they come off in April or early in May, they have
time to build combs and to rear brood before the opening of
the honey flow; whereas if they issue in June or July, the
honey flow, except in heather districts, will have ended before
a sufficient number of young bees can be produced to take
advantage of it (204); in which case neither the swarm nor the
parent stock can store much surplus honey that season, and
the former will probably require feeding and careful attention,
to enable it to survive the autumn and winter. Hence the
well-known adage :—

A swarm of bees in May
Is worth a load of hay;
A swarm of bees in June
Is worth a silver spoon;
A swarm of bees in July
Is worth a butterfly.

206. Signs of Swarming.—With the use of modern hives, the
bee-keeper is able to calculate, with some degree of accuracy,
the date upon which any particular stock is likely to swarm;
and, by a little observation, he can avoid being taken com-
pletely by surprise. This is one distinct advantage of modern
bee-keeping over the old methods; for, if any circumstance of
bee-life demands more prompt attention than another it is the
issue of a swarm, which must be dealt with at once, and which
may be said, like “time and tide,” to wait for no man. When
a colony has increased in numbers to such an extent as to
become cramped for room; when nectar is being carried in
rapidly; and when drones are on the wing, preparations are

SWARMING. 119

made for swarming, and, seven or eight days before the event
is to take place, queen cells are started upon the combs. The
first of these cells will be sealed over on or about the ninth
day, and, when this is observed; when the bees of the colony
are found clustered about the entrance of the hive, or work-
ing in a listless, half-hearted way, while the bees of other
stocks are actively engaged foraging—the swarm may be
expected to issue. (See illus. p. 129.)

207. Delay of Swarming.—Should rain and unfavourable
weather generally prevail at the time of the capping of the
earlier queen cells, the swarm will not issue. The mature
cells will be opened, the young queen nymphs will be
destroyed, and swarming will be deferred until the weather
improves ; and, if necessary, fresh queen cells will be prepared,
loss of valuable time ensuing. Shouid inclement weather be
prolonged, swarming may be abandoned altogether for the
season,

208. The Swarm.—But, if the weather continue favourable,
the bees will, in the early forenoon, make ready for their
departure. A number will be seen flying in front of the
entrance, gaily sporting themselves, and with their heads
towards the hive. Within, the agitated queen, having ceased
ovipositing, hurries from comb to comb, where those of her
progeny who are to accompany her in this reckless abandoning
of home, and stores, and brood, are filling their honey sacs
from the cells, laying in a supply of food sufficient to serve
them for three or four days (18). Presently wild excitement
spreads through the whole colony; the bees rush hither and
thither; the temperature rises rapidly; and, suddenly, the
swarming bees pour out from the entrance in a steady stream.
The air seems to be full of them; they fly around in the very
abandonment of ecstacy; until, the queen mother joining them,
or alighting upon some neighbouring tree, they settle around
her, and form the well-known cluster of the swarm. Previous
to this scouts have been sent out to find a suitable place in
which the swarm may locate itself, and lay the foundation of a
new home. Usually, until the return of the scouts (which may
occur within an hour), the bees will remain in the cluster;
and they should be secured at once, because the scouts gene-
tally select the new location at a considerable distance (211),
and, when the swarm rises from the cluster, it will follow the
scouts, and may be lost to the owner. (19).

209. Vagaries of Swarms.—Should the queen, from any
cause, fail to leave the hive, the bees will return, and will
endeavour to force her to accompany them; for, they will not
venture upon this hazardous enterprise without their mother

120 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

bee (16). Should the queen leave the hive, and fall to the
ground, the bees which discover her will cluster there, and the
remainder will return to the hive. Should the swarm, when
clustered, disclose a disproportion of young or of old bees, the
swarm may go back, and may issue again; and this may be
repeated several times, until the proper proportions are arrived
at. Should the scouts fail to find a suitable location before
sunset; or should rain suddenly appear, the swarm may remain
in the original cluster until the following day. If, on the
other hand, the weather be hot, and if the cluster be left un-
sheltered from the sun, the swarm may decamp at once,
without awaiting the return of the scouts. Sometimes the
queen, a stranger to light, and unaccustomed to fly, is unable
to reach the selected spot, and will drop, exhausted, on the
way, and the new home be started in an unsuitable place.
Occasionally two swarms come out at the same time and form
one cluster; these should be treated as one swarm, and, on
being hived, one of the queens may be removed for use else-
where. If both queens be allowed to enter the new hive, one
of them will be destroyed. (See also 185b and 254¢.)

210. To Encourage Clustering.—The old-time custom of
beating tin cans, in order to cause the swarm to settle quickly,
is possibly due to its having been observed that flying bees
hasten home from the fields when thunder storms threaten in
summer ; and, the din one sometimes hears in swarming time is
intended to represent the “artillery of the gods.” Bees are
highly sensitive to the approach of rain, and will seek the
shelter of their hives when rain is near. But, it is very
probable that it is not the thunder which may precede a summer
shower that influences them; and it is not likely that the noise
of horns and drummed cans can have much, if any, effect in
causing them to cluster rapidly. Water, however, may be
used with good effect. If applied through a garden syringe
which casts a fine spray, and so that it fall upon the swarming
bees from above, like rain, it will hasten their settling, and
will cause them to cluster closely, so that they may be the more
easily, and the more promptly secured. It is recorded that
truant swarms have been headed off, and impelled in the
required direction by this means.

211. Truant Swarms.—Swarms, when they once rise from
the first cluster, seldom remain in the vicinity of their former
homes (19). It appears to be their object to settle as far as
possible from the hives which they have abandoned, and to
leave to their successors not merely the stores there, but also
the flowers of the immediate vicinity. This is one of nature’s
provisions against the mischief of in-breeding. It is often a
cause of disappointment and loss to the owner, who tries, in

SWARMING. 121

vain, to stay or to overtake his truant swarm. The law, as it
applies to the ownership of truant swarms, seems to be, that
if the bees have been seen issuing from their hive, and have
been kept in sight by the owner, or by someone on his behalf,
while they have been followed, and until they have entered the
premises where they cluster, they may be legally claimed and
removed. Otherwise, they become, in the eyes of the law,
fera natura, or wild bees, and may be claimed by anyone who
takes possession of them.

212. Clipping Queen’s Wings.—Many devices have been
employed to induce swarming bees to cluster in accessible
places, and to counteract the instinct which impels them to
depart to “fresh woods and pastures new.” Decoy hives, fur-
nished with some combs, will sometimes entice swarms to take
possession of them. Dry, dark combs, and even black hats
and stockings, tied to the lower branches of trees in the apiary,
are said, by reason of their resemblance at a distance to cluster-
ing bees, to have an attraction for swarms. But in spite of
every such device, swarms will frequently cluster in the high
branches of trees, or in other inaccessible places, and they may
decamp altogether before they can be secured by the owner.
The difficulty may be prevented by the simple expedient of
clipping the queen’s wings; for, if the queen cannot fly, the
swarm will not decamp; and if it should settle upon a high
branch, it will, when the absence of the queen is discovered,
return to the hive. Accordingly, if the queen be picked up,
she can be allowed to run in with the bees when the swarm
returns to the hive (either the
parent hive or a new hive placed
on the old stand), and thus the
trouble of following and secur-
ing the swarm may be obviated.
The proper time for clipping is
in the early spring when the
population of the hive is small,
and when, therefore, the queen
can be more readily found. To
clip a queen’s wings, proceed as
follows :—Take out the frame on
which the queen is found, draw-

= caer ing the carbolic cloth over the

Photo byl aGaDingess brood nest, and rest a corner of
Fic. 82, the frame on the hive: follow

CLIPPING QUEEN'S WING. the queen with a small scissors
as she moves about, and watch

your opportunity to pass a blade of the scissors under the
larger wing on one side, and clip off a portion of it (Fig. 82).

122 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

Another method may be followed:—Hang the frame, upon
which is the queen, upon a comb stand (172) and pick off the
queen by the wings with the finger and thumb of the right
hand, as shown (Fig. 83, A); then gently take her, by the
thorax, in the fingers of the left hand, clip the wing (Fig.
83, B), return her to the brood nest, and place the frame in
its former position in the hive. In either case the operation

A Fig. 83. B
CLIPPING QUEEN’S WING.

is a delicate one, and should be carefully performed, avoiding
all risk of injuring the queen by any pressure upon her
abdomen. By this means, also, the ages of queens may be
recorded upon their persons; the wings on one side being
clipped in their first year; those on the other side, in their
second year; and, in their third season, when there are no
longer any wings to clip, a young queen should be given to
the stock (281). It goes without saying that queens should
not have their wings clipped before they have been mated.
The risk of losing swarms is avoided also by Artificial
Swarming (222).

213. The Parent Stock.—Seven or eight days after the issue
of the prime swarm, the first of the virgin queens emerges
from her cell, and, if the stock decides against further swarm-
ing, the young queen, assisted by the bees, destroys the royal
nymphs, and assumes her position as queen of the colony (199).
About five or seven days later, 7.e., thirteen to sixteen days
after the issue of the prime swarm, she leaves the hive for
impregnation, and, usually on the twenty-first day after the
swarm, her eggs may be found in the cells. Although those
dates are only approximate, they are reliable enough to guide
the bee-keeper in his management. He will know, for example,
that, on the twenty-first day after the swarm, all worker brood
of the old queen will have emerged from the cells, and that
the young queen will have only just begun to lay. If, there-
fore, he desires to transfer bees and combs from skeps to
modern hives (253) he will select the twentieth or the twenty-

SWARMING. 123

first day atter the skep has given a swarm, as offering least
risk of injury to brood.

214. Casts.—As above stated (206), swarms usually issue
shortly after the sealing of the earliest queen cell, which takes
place on the ninth day from the laying of the egg. Seven or
eight days later the young queen leaves her cell, and attempts
to destroy the royal nymphs (199). Early in the morning, or
in the afternoon, when the bees are still, her shrill piping may
be distinctly heard, and also the muffled, piping answers of
the royal nymphs who, still imprisoned in their cells, are con-
scious of impending danger. If the colony be sufficiently
strong to give off a cast, the bees mount guard around the
queen cells, and refuse to permit the young queen to destroy
her rivals. On the following day, which usually is the ninth
day after the departure of the prime swarm, the young queen
and the second swarm, or cast, issue (20). If, however, the
weather be very unfavourable, the exit of the cast may be
delayed, and even the queen cells and their occupants be
destroyed (Fig. 14, B, page 36), and further swarming be
deferred, or ended for the season. But young, unmated
queens are somewhat reckless and impetuous, and will often
come out with a cast on a rainy day; they will fly farther than
aged queens before alighting; and such casts are more likely
than are prime swarms to abscond, even after they have been
hived. Second casts usually issue two or three days after the
first cast, and third and fourth casts on the next and the follow-
ing days respectively. Sometimes two or more virgin queens,
emerging from their cells on the same day, accompany one
cast. The cast being hived, all but one queen will be
destroyed. Although, in a favourable season, an early first
cast may be made profitable, after swarms should be dis-
couraged because, weak themselves, they so depopulate the
parent stock that neither can be of much use that season.

215. Hunger Swarms.—Occasionally bees will forsake their
hives on any day of the year, except in winter, either as a
complete stock or as a swarm, and will locate themselves in
any available nook or corner. This may arise from the pre-
sence in the hive of something distasteful to the bees (232).
But most frequently it is the result of hunger; when, a portion
of the bees will abandon the hive, in a spirit of self-denial
leaving such food as remains for the queen and the remainder
of the stock ; or the whole stock will depart, knowing that
starvation is imminent, and in a desperate hope of bettering
their condition elsewhere (307). Obviously, the remedy is, in
the former case, to introduce them to a clean hive; in "the
latter case, to provide them with food. Examination of the
hive will generally show what has been the cause of the

I

124 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

departure of the bees, and, when the cause has been removed,
the truants may be returned to their old quarters.

216. Prevention of Swarming.—It is frequently advisable to
prevent natural swarming, because of the trouble and risks
attending it, and because, when one desires to obtain the largest
possible harvest of honey, and does not wish to increase his
stocks, natural swarming upsets all his arrangements; for, it
is not possible, in an average season, to secure both an in-
crease of stocks and a large supply of surplus honey. Even
where increase of stocks is chiefly desired, natural swarming
may be prevented with advantage, and, by artificial swarming
the increase be made by wise selection from the _ best
colonies (222). It must be remembered that it is, generally,
quite impossible to prevent swarming when once the bees of a
colony have contracted the “ swarming fever ” €187)—so-called,
perhaps, because like any fever that “flesh is heir to,” when
once it has set in, the arrival of the crisis is inevitable. There-
fore, the bee-keeper, desiring to prevent natural swarming, and
familiar with the causes which promote it (206), should set
himself, in good time, to circumvent them.

217. Giving Room.—One fruitful cause of natural swarming
is congestion in the brood chamber, when there is not sufficient
rcom either for ovipositing by the queen, or for honey storing
by the bees (187). Therefore, before they are actually needed,
frames of comb, or of foundation should be added to the brood
nest, and, in the season, new sections or frames to the supers
(255). When the honey flow is on, @.e., when nectar is being
carried in rapidly, the addition of frames of foundation will
not always meet the needs of the case; because, the demand
for vacant cells, both for eggs and honey, becomes too urgent,
and, before the foundation can be drawn out into cells, conges-
tion may set in, and preparations for swarming begin. In
such circumstances, empty combs should be given. If the hive
has already its full complement of frames, one or two frames
of honey may be removed, the honey extracted (134) and the
frames returned to the hive; and this should be repeated
weekly, or more frequently, as required. In a pressing case,
one or two frames of brood may be removed and given to
another stock, the vacancy being filled with empty combs.
Thus, not only is the tendency to swarm checked, but the
storing of honey is largely increased. Afterwards, when
supers are put on, the pressure upon the combs in the brood
nest is relieved, and if, as each fresh super is added, one or
two of the frames in the lower storey have their honey ex-
tracted, and are returned to the centre of the brood nest, or
if a frame of foundation be given there, the queen will have
sufficient scope for her energies below, the stock for their

SWARMING, 125

energies above, and the inducement to swarm will be
minimised, if not entirely removed. (193 and illus. page 129.)

218. Ventilation.—Excessive heat in a crowded hive
encourages swarming. Therefore, hives, in warm weather,
should be well ventilated; the doors should be opened to full
width; the ventilator in the floor board (85) should also be
opened. A ventilating dummy (95) may be used at the back
of the brood chamber, the body box being moved backwards
on the floor board to admit air through the dummy, or an
opening in the back of the hive being provided for that pur-
pose, so that it can be closed from the outside, or partially
closed as required. The floor board, when constructed so as
to admit of this, may be lowered, to admit air from all sides.
The body box may be raised half an inch from the flocr
board by wedges at the corners. The roof may be tilted
up in the front, may be shaded from direct sunrays by trees,
or by a make-shift shade of one kind or another; in extreme
cases, a sack may be soaked in water and placed upon the
roof, and be kept damp and cool during the hottest hours of
the day. Bees will not for long tolerate an upward draught,
and, although to meet a sudden emergency an upward draught
may be caused by placing a feeding stage (121) upon the sheet
and raising the roof, such an expedient must be only
temporarily adopted. Hives should never have the floor board
permanently fastened to the body box, because of the difficulty,
among others, of ventilating; and all ventilators applied to a
hive should be of such a nature as to be easily opened, and as
easily closed, without the risk of disturbing or crushing bees;
for, in our climate, chilly nights frequently follow warm days,
when, should the ventilators be left fully open, chilled brood
might result. (338).

219. Limiting Drone Rearing.—A third circumstance
incident to swarming lies in the breeding of excessive quanti-
ties of drones—fussy, and somewhat pushful insects which
raise the temperature of the hive, and by their very presence
suggest, continuously, the rearing of young queens. There-
fore, the production of drones should be limited by the use of
only worker-cell foundation, and in full sheets, wired, to
prevent breakage and consequent construction of drone
cells (195) and also by cutting out unnecessary drone
comb when discovered in the hive. The skilful bee-keeper
makes it a point to limit drone rearing in all his stocks,
except in those that are headed by his best queens. Thus he
secures that the drones which shall fertilise his young queens
shall be of the best blood in his apiary, and by careful selection
he keeps up, and even improves the quality of his stocks.

126 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

220. Limiting Queen Rearing.—A fourth condition in the
stock which is about to swarm, is the presence of queen cells;
and it is sometimes recommended, as a preventive of swarm-
ing, to cut out all such cells. The advice is based upon the
theory that it is the mother-queen who causes the swarm by
stirring the bees up to it, and by leading them out; that she
is impelled by her wrath at the rearing of young queens;
and that, if the queen cells be destroyed by the bee-keeper,
the old queen will be placated, and the swarm be prevented.
But it is evident to careful observers that swarming generally
takes place, not at the instigation of the old queen, but against
her will; that she does not lead the swarm out; and that she
frequently shows a pronounced disinclination to leave her hive,
and, sometimes, has to be driven out by the bees. The swarm
becomes necessary by reason of the conditions referred to
above; the bees prepare for it in the manner already described ;
and, cutting out the queen cells, while it will delay the swarm,
will not alone prevent it: further queen cells will be formed;
the preparations will be continued; and, the bees, always list-
less during such periods, will sacrifice much valuable time and
energy in those weeks of the year which, to the bee-keeper,
are most valuable. Therefore, while cutting out the queen
cells may be adopted in connection with the other preventive
measures, it will not, by itself, accomplish the desired object.
Sufficient room and ventilation must be given, and it should be
remembered that, if the various precautions be deferred until
the bees have felt the need of more room, the swarm will
probably issue in spite of all that the bee-keeper may do. (216).

221. Prevention of Casts.—Casts may generally be prevented
by removing all queen cells from the swarmed stock, giving
extra room, and introducing a fertile queen. (240—242).

222. Artificial Swarming.—As a substitute for natural
swarming, artificial swarming, in the hands of a capable bee-
keeper, offers many distinct advantages. It enables him (1)
To arrange, by careful selection, the increase of his stocks,
and that, always from his best queens: (2) To obtain early
swarms, and from stocks which, if left alone, might not swarm
naturally: (3) To prevent serious waste of time by stocks in
preparation for natural swarming : (4) To avoid excitement and
trouble securing and hiving swarms, and the risk of their
absconding altogether (211): (5) To provide swarms for sale,
as required (227): (6) To introduce strange queens to stocks
(288): and (7) To remove bees from infected combs, as in the
treatment of foul brood. (356).

223. Conditions.—There are certain conditions which require
attention in all the following operations, viz.:—(1) The stocks

SWARMING. 127

to be operated upon must be strong. (2) There must be drones
hatching, or on the wing, to fertilise the young queens. (3)
The day must be fine, so that there may be sufficient flying
bees to form the swarms. (4) The brood must be carefully
protected from cold. (5) The swarms must be fed for a few
days, especially if they have no sealed honey in the combs
given them.

224. One Swarm from One Colony.—From the stock to be
swarmed remove a frame of brood with the queen and adhering
bees, and place itina new hive. Add, say, six frames of comb,
or of foundation, three on either side of the occupied frame:
close up the dummy: put on the quilts and roof: and set the
new hive upon the stand of the parent stock, removing the
latter to another position at least six feet away. All the flying
bees of the parent stock, returning to their old stand, will
form the swarm. The parent hive should be given a frame of
comb in the place of the frame removed; not a frame of founda-
tion, if comb can be procured, because queenless bees are
disposed to build cells suited to the storing of honey rather
than to the rearing of workers, and this is to be avoided. If
a fertile queen be introduced (295) to the parent stock in the
evening, no time will be lost in brood rearing. If a fertile
queen cannot be supplied, one or two ripe queen cells may
be given. If neither queen nor queen cells be available, the
bees will rear a queen for themselves.

225. One Stronger Swarm from Two Colonies.—Prepare a
hive (S) with seven or eight frames of wired foundation.
Remove a strong stock (A) to one side, and place the
hive S on A’s stand. Set a hiving board, with a white cloth
upon it (233) and sloping from the ground to the alighting
board of hive S. Smoke the bees of hive A, and take out the
frames one by one, brushing, shaking, or thumping (184) the
bees on to the hiving board, until all have been removed from
hive A, when they will run into hive S, and will be strengthened
by the addition of all the flying bees of A returning to their
old stand. The frames of hive A having been returned to their
hive, and kept covered, to avoid the danger of chilling the
brood (338), remove a second strong stock (B) to a new posi-
tion, and place hive A upon B’s stand. All the flying bees
of hive B, numbering many thousands, will enter hive A, to
rear the brood and to raise a new queen for themselves. If, in
the evening, a fertile queen be introduced to A (299), breeding
will proceed without interruption, and much valuable time will
be saved. By this method an extra strong swarm is secured
without unduly reducing the strength of the two stocks
operated upon.

226, Using Three or More Stocks.—When there are more
than two stocks available for the purpose, the above method

128 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

may be varied as follows:—Remove one strong stock to a new
position, and place an empty hive upon its stand. Take, as
required, one, two, or more frames of brood from the other
stocks, returning the adhering bees to their hives, and insert
the frames in the new hive, supplying their places with frames
of comb, or of wired foundation. Thus the first stock supplies
the bees, the others the brood, and none of them is appreciably
weakened. A new queen, if at hand, may be given in the
evening (295)

227. Making Swarms for Sale.—When swarms are bcing
prepared for sale, they may be made up from one, or more
stocks, as desired. If from one stock, the frame on which the
queen is found is removed, and the bees upon it, with the
queen, are brushed, or shaken into a swarm-box (160), or up-
turned skep, and as many more bees as are required are also
shaken in. If still more bees be required, the box, or skep,
may be placed upon the stand of the parent hive until a suffi-
cient number of flying bees have entered it. It may then be
prepared for transit (153). Another method is to set the
empty skep temporarily upon the stand of the parent hive;
a frame is then removed from the parent hive with the queen
and some bees; the queen is picked off the frame and placed
at the entrance of the skep, and the bees are shaken off the
frame so that they may run in with the queen: the operation
is continued with other frames until sufficient bees have been
transferred to the skep, which is then prepared for transit, the
parent hive being returned to its stand. If bees of more than
one colony are required, care must be taken to include only
one queen in the swarm; and the bees should all be dusted
with flour, or aspersed with thin, scented syrup to prevent
fighting. (160).

228. One Swarm from a Stock and a Nucleus.—It will be
evident that one of the objections to swarming, both natural
and artificial, lies in the fact that the stock which has been
deprived of its queen, while the older bees are dying off rapidly,
must be without a laying queen for at least twenty-one
days (213). Careful bee-keepers overcome this objection by
having a supply of young, fertile queens in nucleus hives (290).
Where such queens can be had, artificial swarming may be
carried out without any waste of time, and therefore more
successfully. The following procedure may be adopted :—
Upon a fine day, when honey is coming in, secure the young
laying queen of the nucleus upon one of the frames, by a pipe-
cover cage (297), so that she shall have some honey at her
disposal. If the nucleus is in a small hive, transfer the bees
and combs to a suitable hive, and add sufficient frames of comb
or of foundation. Place the hive containing the nucleus on
the stand of a strong stock, removing the latter to the stand

SWARMING. 129

formerly occupied by the nucleus. By this method the nucleus
receives the flying bees of the stock; both colonies have fertile
queens; the risks attached to other methods are avoided; and
the bees will work with a will. The caged queen may be
released in thirty-six hours.

223. Making Swarms from Stocks in Skeps.—Owing to the
inconvenience of feeding and observing bees in skeps, and to
the difficulty of supplying swarms in skeps with brood and
drawn-out comb, artificial swarming to colonise skeps should
be deferred until the stocks are not only strong, but also near
the swarming stage, and until the weather is good, and there
is abundance of nectar to be gathered. Drive (160) the stock
from which the swarm is to be taken until the queen and about
half the bees have gone up. If more than the desired quantity
of bees pass up before the queen, pick up the queen and place
her in a small box for the moment. Throw the excess bees back
among the combs, and liberate the queen among the bees in
the upper skep. Put back the parent stock upon its old stand,
and the driven swarm upon a new stand, or vice versa as your
object may demand. If the queen has not been found when all
the bees have been driven, the stock must be returned to its
skep, and the operation be repeated later on.

230. A Stronger Swarm from Two Stocks in Skeps.—When a
stronger swarm is desired, and when two stocks (A and B) in
skeps are available for the purpose, drive the queen and all
the bees from stock A: place the driven swarm (S) upon A’s
stand: place stock A upon the stand of stock B: and remove
stock B to a new position. Thus A gives all its bees to S,
retaining the combs and brood, and securing, on its new stand,
all the flying bees of B, while B is not depleted beyond its
force of flying bees.

Photo from life] [by J. G. Digges.
CONGESTION (217). BEES CROWDED OUT.

130 HE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XXI.
HIVINGC: UNITING: AND TRANSFERRING BEES.

231. Confidence in Protection from Stings.—It has already
been stated that bees, when swarming, are most peaceable,
and that at other times they may be “ subdued to settled quiet ”
so as to be comparatively harmless (167). But, for the reasons
mentioned (169), the beginner will do well to wear a veil and
gloves when preparing to hive a swarm; for, until he gains
the confidence which follows experience, the confidence arising
from the feeling of being, for the occasion, protected from
stings, will assist him to carry through the work in hands in
a business-like way.

232. Preparing the Hive.—Some days before a swarm is
expected, a hive should be prepared to receive it. If the hive
has been used before, it should have any necessary repairs,
and two coats of good paint. The inside, and the dummies,
should be scalded, and washed with a solution of 1 oz. Calvert’s
No. 5 Carbolic Acid to 2 oz. water, and the parts should be
set out in the air so that the smell of the carbolic may disappear
before the hive may be required, for, any unpleasantness in
their new home might cause the bees to forsake it (215). The
hive, with eight or nine frames of comb, or of wired founda-
tion, should then be set up in the position which it is to occupy
in the apiary, carefully levelled, as previously directed (147),
and with the sheet and quilts upon the frames. The sheet, if
new, should be soaked in water, and put, while still damp,
upon the frames; it will then lie perfectly flat, and will continue
to do so when dry.

233. Hiving Swarms Direct.—When a swarm issues, no time
should be lost in securing it. If a garden syringe is at hand,
spray some water over the bees, and when they cluster, give
them some more water to cool them, and to cause them to
cluster more closely. If they cluster upon a low branch,
or shrub, bring the prepared hive as close as possible to
the cluster: place a hiving board sloping up to the alighting
board of the hive, and raised at the other end so that it may
be nearly, but not quite level: cover the hiving board with a
white cloth arranged to lie smoothly right up to the hive
entrance, and kept in position by stones at the corners: draw

HIVING: UNITING: AND TRANSFERRING BEES. 181

out the hive doors,
and with them
wedge upthe front
of the hive an inch
or two from the
floor board. If the
swarm hangs not
more than a foot
or two above the
hiving board, give
the branch on
which it hangs a
smart shake,
throwing the bees
on to the white
cloth, Ifthe branch
be too high, cut it
off, without dis-
turbing the clus-
ter, and shake the
bees on to the

: white cloth. They
HIVING BEES. will speedily run
into the hive;
when, if a sharp look out be kept for the queen, she may be
seen passing in. Should the bees delay to enter the hive, take
up a handful, and place them at the entrance; or, with a feather
move them on. The “music” which they will make on dis-
covering their new home will act as a “quick march” to the
remainder, and the swarm will soon be hived. When the bees
are in, throw the white cloth over the hive, letting it hang
down in front, thus sheltering from the sun until the flying
bees join the others, when the hive must be carried to its
permanent stand, for, otherwise, the bees, beginning work, will
mark the spot, and will return there after the hive has been
moved. Feed for a few days. (236).

234. Swarms in High Trees.—If the swarm should settle on
a very high branch, the hive need not be removed from its
stand. Get a clean skep (78), mouth upwards, under the
cluster, and shake the swarm into it. If you cannot reach high
enough, hold up the skep on a pitch fork, and get someone to
shake the bees in; but take care to have your skep so secured
that it will not topple over, and drop the swarm upon your head.
The job may be more satisfactorily carried through if you pro-
vide yourself beforehand with a half sack, arranged on a hoop,
and with a long handle, after the fashion of an angler’s landing
net. Get the sack under the swarm; shake the bees in; give the

THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

handle a turn, closing
the mouth of the bag so
that no bees can escape,
and carry them to the
hive. If the branch must
be cut off and removed,
with any risk of shaking
off the swarm in the
process, bore two holes
at opposite sides of the
skep mouth and pass
two strong cords through
the holes: get the skep
under the cluster and tie
it to the branch: passa
sack up, covering the
skep and swarm, and tie
it also to the branch:
then, no matter what
jarring or shaking may
ensue, the bees will be
secure. Doctor Smyth’s
Swarm Catcher (fig. 84)
is a device for securing
swarms when they locate
themselves in the
branches of tall trees,

SWARM IN A HIGH TREE, or in other awkward
places. It consists of

an arched piece of 2” iron rod on a long
pole. The ends of the arch are connected
by a bar passing through holes at its
extremities, and locked, when necessary,
by a thumb screw. The bar carries two
laths, fixed so as to form carriers for four
or six frames. A thin lath thrust under
the bar and pressing on the tops of the
frames, holds them so tightly that, while
the frames swing freely on the bar, they are
fixed to one another. Thus an attractive
temporary home may be brought within
reach of a clustering swarm, and in it,
without the inconvenience of climbing and
branch cutting, the bees may be secured
and conveyed to a permanent residence.

235. Swarms in Awkward Places.--
Should it be impossible to work any of
the above plans: if the swarm has entered

Fig. 84.
THE SMYTH SWARM
CATCHER.

HIVING: UNITING: AND TRANSFERRING BEES. 133
a chimney, or has clustered in a thick hedge, or in an old wall;
get your skep over it, and drive the bees up with smoke, or
with the fumes of a cloth saturated with carbolic solution (127).
If you can so arrange that the smoke or the carbolic fumes
will not enter the skep, the bees will march up. If the swarm
clusters on a wall, or on the trunk of a tree, get the skep under,
and with a brush sweep the bees in. If they alight on the
ground, as they may possibly do when the queen’s wings have
been clipped (212), place the skep beside them, and raised an
inch or two upon a couple of stones; with a twig, or a feather,
or your hand move some of the bees to the entrance: they will
pass in, and the remainder will quickly follow.

236. Hiving from a Skep.—Having secured the swarm in
your skep, set the skep on a cloth or on the ground close -to
the place where the swarm originally clustered, and raised
upon a couple of stones, to allow the outside bees to enter:
cover with a cloth, to shield from hot sunshine, until all the
bees have gone in: then carry it gently to the stand which
it is to occupy. In the afternoon, a couple of hours before
sunset, hive the swarm as directed (233). Or, if it be desirable
to adopt another and more rapid method, remove the sheet and
quilts from the hive which is to receive the swarm; space out
the frames as widely as possible; and arrange the hiving board
and white cloth as directed above (233). Take the skep;
invert it; give it a good “bump” upon the ground to loosen
the foot hold of the bees; and pour, or shake some of the swarm
on to the frames, and the remainder on to the hiving board.
Then spread the sheet, only, upon the frames; put on a feeder
(119) with thin syrup (Recipe 321); and place the roof in
position. In the morning, close up the frames and dummy,
first removing any unnecessary frames, and aly in which the
foundation may have broken down; remove the wedges, and
lower the hive front to the floor board; put on the covering
and the roof; and continue gentle feeding for about a week.

237. Secure all the Cluster.—If, by any means, you have
failed to secure the queen with the swarm, the bees will forsake
the hiving skep and will return to the original cluster if the
queen be still there, or to the hive from which they swarmed, in
the event of their being unable to find the queen. Therefore,
care should be taken to secure all the bees of the cluster, so
that the queen may not be lost.

238. Sweetening the Hiving Skep.—The old-fashioned custom
of smearing the skep with treacle, butter, or beer, as an induce-
ment to the bees, is both useless and objectionable; but, a little
piece of comb, with honey or brood, fastened by a skewer in
the top of the skep, serves as an attraction.

134 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

239. Hiving by Caging.—lIf the bee-keeper is on the alert
and secs the swarm as it issues, he may often save himself a
great deal of trouble if he watches the queen as she comes out
on the alighting board, and slips a pipe-cover cage (297) over
her. He then places the prepared hive on the stand of the parent
stock; sets the queen, in her cage, on the alighting board of
the former; and waits for the swarm to return, when the absence
of the queen has been discovered (209). He then releases the
queen, allowing her to go in with the swarm, and either leaves
the swarm on the old stand, or removes it to a new position, as
his requirements may suggest. If left upon the old stand, it
will receive a large accession of strength from the flying bees
of the parent stock, and will work with surprising vigour.

240. Hiving a Swarm on the Old Stand.—If you are working
for honey rather than for an increase of your stocks, place the
swarm upon the stand of the parent stock, removing the latter
to a new position, and transfer the supers, if any, from the
stock to the swarm. Thus, casts will be prevented; the swarm
will be strengthened by the flying bees of the stock, and new
energy will be thrown into its work. An excluder under the
supers will be useful. If, at the close of the honey flow, you
unite the two stocks, removing the old queen, in the following
year you will have a strong stock, with a queen in her prime.

241. The Heddon Method.—T he Heddon method is to movc the
parent hive to one side, beside, and at right angles with its for-
mer position, the hive with the swarm being placed on the old
stand. Two days later, the parent hive is turned round so that
its entrance points in the same direction as the entrance of the
hive containing the swarm; and, seven or eight days after the
issue of the swarm, 7.e., a day or two before a cast might be
expected (214), in the middle of the day, when bees are flying
freely, the parent hive is changed to a new position, thus giving
all its flying bees to the swarm, and effectually preventing
casts. (221).

24%. Returning Swarms.—Another method consists in taking
away all brood from the swarmed stock, filling the vacancies
with frames of wired foundation, and transferring the brood at
once to other hives; after which the swarm is run into the
parent hive as directed (233). Thus the swarming impulse is
usually satisfied, the bees are kept together, and the foraging
propensity receives a new stimulus. It is to be noted that the
brood combs, before being given to other stocks, should have
their queen cells removed.

243. Retracing Swarms.—Should there be any difficulty in
locating the hive from which a swarm has issued, take from the
cluster a handful of bees: put them into a small box, and

HIVING: UNITING: AND TRANSFERRING BEES, 135

dredge them with flour: then carry them to a distance, and
shake them out upon a board or newspaper. Ifa watch be kept
upon the hives, the bees that have been floured will be seen
returning to the hive from which they issued with the swarm.

244. Uniting Bees: Precautions.—Weak stocks can never
be profitable; but, if two or more of such stocks be joined
together they will, in summer, do useful work, and in winter
they will consume less stores, preserve their heat better, and
will survive where, separately, they would perish. Frequently
it is desirable to unite stock to stock, swarm to stock, or
swarm to swarm, as the case may be. It must be remembered
that bees of different colonies will not usually unite peaceably,
unless precautions have been taken to prevent their fighting.
Such precautions should aim at—(1) Causing the bees to fill
themselves with sweets; and (2) Giving them the same scent.

245. Uniting Swarms.—Swarms, however, being already well
filled with honey (208) and having neither home nor brood to
defend, may be united at once if they be thrown together into
one skep, or on to a hiving board, and allowed to run into the
hive. One queen may be removed, or the two queens may be
left to settle their differences in their own way. (See 254c.)

246. Uniting Two Stocks.—Bring the two stocks (A and B)
together as already directed (156). Begin the operation of
uniting in the evening, when all the bees have returned to
their hives from the fields, because, bees entering after the
union has taken place, and not having the same scent, may
be attacked and killed. Ifa spare hive (C) be available, place
it between the hives A and B. Subdue the bees by smoking
them (177), and, if they have no stores from which to fill them-
selves, give them some thin, warm syrup (181). If one queen
is better than the other, take away the latter. If hive C will
not hold all the frames of the hives A and B, reject, for the pre-
sent, the outside frames, and such others as have no brood,
or are least valuable. From hive A take out frame No 1:
thoroughly dust all the adhering bees with flour, and place the
frame, with its bees, in hive C, and in a similar position to
that which it occupied in hive A: take out frame No. 1 from
hive B, flour the bees upon it, and place it in C, next to the
former frame: proceed similarly with frames 2A and 2B, and
continue until all the frames necessary have been transferred.
Dust with flour all the bees remaining in A and B, and shake
them, or brush them on to the frames in C. Cover up with
the sheets, quilts and roof: give two or three puffs of smoke
at the entrance, two or three thumps with your fists upon the
roof, and “ leave well alone” until the next day. Ifa spare hive
be not available, space out the frames in A or B, and arrange
the frames alternately i in either hive.

136 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE,

247. Uniting Queenless Bees to a Stock.—In this case, pro-
tect the queen by caging, as directed (297), and proceed as
before (246). If there is nothing to be gained by transferring
all, or any of the frames from the queenless colony, the bees
may be shaken into a skep, and thrown down upon a hiving
board before the hive of the stock to which they are to be
united. Another usually successful method is to cover the
frames of the queenless stock with a sheet of strong paper,
slightly damped, and having a few small holes pierced in the
centre, then setting the hive with the other stock on top, and
leaving all undisturbed for at least four days.

248. Uniting a Swarm to a Stock.---Proceed as described
above for uniting queenless bees to a stock; with this addition,
that, if you wish to preserve the queen not of the swarm, but of
the stock, the queen of the swarm should be removed, because,
otherwise, the two queens will fight, and if the queen of the
swarm has not been fertilised, being the queen of an after-
swarm, or cast, the fertile queen will probably be killed.
If you cannot find the queen otherwise, allow only a
few bees to entcr the hive, keeping the bulk of the swarm well
back from the entrance: then place a piece of excluder zinc
(109) over the entrance: pick up the queen as she endeavours
to pass through the zinc: remove the zinc, and let the swarm
go in. Sometimes, to further reduce the risk of fighting, it
is preferred to mix the bees morc thoroughly by shaking those
of the stock also on to the hiving board, allowing them to run
in with the swarm.

249. Uniting Driven Bees.—Driven bees (160) may be united
without difficulty. Dust the two lots thoroughly with flour.
If they are in skeps, bring the skeps together, mouth to mouth:
give them a “bump” on the ground, to throw the upper bees
into the lower skep: shake, and mix them well together, and
throw them on to the hiving board. If you do not remove one
qucen, the bees will settle that matter for themselves.

250. Uniting Driven Bees to a Stock.—For this operation,
extra precautions against fighting are desirable. Procure a
second, temporary, hive, and to it transfer about half the
frames from the stock hive, returning the adhering bees to the
latter as you proceed, and, without delay, hive the driven bees
by shaking some on to the frames and the remainder on to a
hiving board (236). Now bring the two hives close together.
After three or four days, unite the two lots as described under
the head of “ Uniting Two Stocks.” (246).

251. Transferring Bees.—When “spring cleaning” (384) is
being attended to; when it is desired to change from the old
to the modern methods; and at other times, it is found neces-

HIVING: UNITING: AND TRANSFERRING BEES, 137

sary to transfer bees from one hive to another, or from a skep
to a modern hive.

252. Transferring from Hive to Hive.—Remove the stock
hive to one side, and set a clean, empty hive on the vacant
stand, with its floor board perfectly level, if the frames are to
hang parallel with the entrance (147), and with the frame
carriers vaselined (174). Subdue the bees with smoke: remove
the quilts and sheet: if there are supers on, set them on two
sticks on the ground, or upon a table: draw back the dummy,
and space out the frames. Take out the frames, one by one,
and insert them, in the same order, in the clean hive: set a
hiving board in front, and brush or shake on to it any bees
remaining in the old hive: replace the supers (if any) and put
on the covering and roof (384).

253. Transferring from Skep to Modern Hive.—The transfer
of combs from a skep to the frames of a modern hive, is not
often desirable. It is a messy, troublesome job that often
leads to chilled brood (338), and the combs are frequently
worked out so irregularly in the frames as to render suhse-
quent manipulations very difficult. It is generally preferable
to allow the bees to transfer themselves by the automatic
method to be described below (254). But. where transfer of
the combs is decided upon, the following process may be
adopted :—Drive all the bees out (160), and set them, in their
skep, on their old stand. Take the old skep to a warm kitchen,
and with a sharp knife cut it right through between the centre
combs. Spread a piece of paper on a board not less than
15" x go”, and across it lay, at equal distances, two or three
narrow tapes, at least 24” long. On the tapes place a comb
carefully taken from the skep, arranging the tapes so that they
may be passed round the comb and tied at the top. Place a
frame over the comb, so that the upper edge of the comb shall
meet the top bar of the frame; and, if the comb be too large
for the frame, cut it to fit tightly between the top and bottom
bars. If the comb be too shallow to fill the frame, put a piece
of lath under it, and draw one or more tapes under this. Tie
the tapes around the frame and comb; raise the board, frame,
and comb together; and set the frame in the new hive.
Transfer the other combs similarly, excluding drone comb,
and being careful to include all the worker brood in the
centre frames (213), and to avoid its being chilled. Close
up the frames and dummy: put on the covering and
roof: set the hive on the old stand: and run in the driven
bees as previously described. Give a little feeding, or
uncap some of the honey cells. In a couple of days, when
the bees will have fastened the combs in the frames, remove
the tapes. Sometimes, wire netting, with a small mesh, is used

138 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

instead of tapes, and by this means small pieces of comb can
be held in position until fastened by the bees. The combs
should always hang in the new hive top up, as they were in
the skep. The method illustrated here (Fig. 84b) may be
made to serve the purpose; several pieces of comb may be
held in position in a frame until joined by the bees, or pieces
of foundation may be inserted (as in the illustration) either to
fill a frame or to substitute worker for drone comb. The laths
have ordinary pins driven through them; these hold the pieces
of comb, or foundation, and the pins at the ends are driven into
the top bar and bottom bar of the frame.

ARISH BEE JOURWAL-~-.~

Fig. 84b.
REPAIRED COMB.

254. Automatic Transfer from Skep, or Box, to Modern Hive.
—Stimulate the stock (192, 313, 318) with the object of having
the skep crowded with bees in April, or early in May. When
this is attained, prepare a modern hive, as directed (232),
cutting a central hole of 6” or 8” diameter in the sheet. This
hive must now be placed in the position occupied by the skep,
and the skep must be set upon the sheet, over the frames.
Put on the lift (87), in the summer position (Fig. 116, p. 207),
and pack warmly round the skep so that no bees can get out
except through the entrance of the lower hive: put on the roof
and open the doors. The bees will now leave the hive and
return through the regular entrance, passing up and down the
frames as they come and go; and as they increase in numbers
they will occupy the frames. About ten days after the opera-
tion described above, weather permitting, an examination
should be made. When brood is found in more than one

HIVING : UNITING : AND TRANSFERRING BEES. 138B

frame, make sure that the queen is in the lower hive, and place
an excluder (109) on the frames, returning the sheet, skep, and
wraps. Should the queen not be found below, drive all the
bees from the skep (160), hive them at the entrance (233), put
on an excluder, and replace the sheet, skep, and wraps.
Twenty-one days later all worker brood in the skep will have
hatched (190, 204). Meanwhile, on suitable days, say once a
week, the skep may be raised for a few moments to allow
hatching drones to escape. Should the excluder become
choked by drones trying to pass through, it must be cleared.
After all brood in it has hatched, the skep may be left in
position to be filled with honey, or it may be removed, the bees
being driven from it and returned to the lower hive, the place
of the skep being occupied by a crate of sections, or a super
box of frames ($9, 103, 108). Stocks in boxes may be trans-
ferred similarly. This method of transfer is less troublesome
and less risky than that described above (253). It sacrifices
neither brood nor honey, and gives the best results.

254b. The Heddon Method of Transfer.—The ‘ Heddon”
method, which was published in Gleanings, and appears in
Roots “A.B.C. of Bee Culture,” may be briefly described as
follows :—Move the skep to one side and in its place set a hive
having five or six frames of wired foundation. Drive the bees
in the skep (160) until the queen and about two-thirds of the
bees have gone up, and throw these on to a hiving board (233)
so that they may run into the new hive. Now set the skep
about two feet behind the new hive, with the entrance turned
at right angles with its original direction. After twenty-one
days, when the worker brood will have hatched out (190, 204),
drive all the bees from the skep, put a piece of excluder (109)
against the entrance of the hive. cage the queen as before
directed (247), thoroughly smoke both lots, and hive the driven
bees through the entrance. Any young queens will be stopped
by the excluder. If fighting occurs, give more smoke, and
beat upon the hive-sides. The honey and the broodless combs
in the skep can be dealt with as desired.

254c. Separating Swarms.—Should two swarms unite in one
cluster (209), if it be desired to separate them, preserving both
queens, prepare two hives (232) standing side by side, and
shake the swarms, in about equal portions, on to the cloth-
covered hiving boards (233), as far back from the hive entrances
as convenient; move up a few bees to each entrance and—
having enlisted an assistant to watch one lot while you attend
to the other—secure the first queen that shows herself, placing
a cage, or a wineglass, over her. If you succeed in finding

K

138¢ THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

the second queen also, admit one qucen to each hive; failing
this, watch for signs of queenlessness (284) in one swarm, and
run in the captive queen there.

C77

Sef

S

Gs RESCUING CONDEMNED BEES. )

SURPLUS HONEY. 139

CHAPTER XNXII.
SURPLUS HONEY.

255. Preparing in Time.—The honey flow (265), in this
country, lasts for only a few weeks. ‘To take full advantage
of it, and to secure a harvest as large as possible, the bee-
keeper should bring his stocks up to their full strength by
stimulating breeding (192), and spreading the brood (193),
right up to the opening of the flow, and by uniting all weak
stocks (244). He should also have for every hive a supply of
crates (103) fitted with sections of foundation, or drawn comb;
or a supply of super boxes (108) fitted with frames of wired
foundation, or of drawn comb—crates, if he means to work
for comb honey; super boxes, if for run, or extracted honey.
The crates, or super boxes, should be prepared, wrapped in
paper, and laid aside ina safe place well ahead of the opening
of the season. It is an expensive habit to defer the prepara-
tion of such appliances until they are actually required.

256. Extracted Honey more Profitable than Comb Honey.---
Whether he shall work for comb honey, for extracted honey,
or for both, each bee-keeper must decide for himself; and
his decision should be made sufficiently eariy to enable him
to make his arrangements accordingly. As between the two—
section, and extracted honey—the question of profit can be
answered only in favour of the latter. The output of extracted
honey, where strong stocks are employed, is greater by from
50% to 100% than that of comb honey: the expenses are less,
the same combs serving for many years: the marketing is
simpler and cheaper, freights being lower, and breakages
infrequent: “depreciation” and risks are reduced to a mini-
mum: and the management of the stocks is simplified, there
being fewer swarms (266), and, accordingly, less upsetting of
the bee-man’s arrangements. If there be any extra trouble
in dealing with extracted honey; there is less trouble in dealing
with the bees. If it be an objection that extracted honey
fetches a lower price; there is the compensation that one has
about double the quantity to sell, and at a lower cost of pro-
duction. If the initial cost of an extracting outfit (134-136)
be a discouragement; the yearly saving in the cost of sections

i” THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

and foundation is a far more than sufficient set off. Suppose
the extracting outfit to cost £2 (which is a hberal allowance
for a small apiary), the annual charge, at 5%, upon that outlay,
with allowance of 15% for depreciation, may be set down at
8s. But the sections and foundation required for four hives
may cost £1 per annum; for six hives, £1 10s.; for ten hives,
£2 108., which shows a very substantial economy in favour of
working for extracted honey, where more than three strong
stocks are employed.

257. Pregaring Crates and Sections.—If the crate has been
used before, let it be well scalded, washed, and scraped clean
from propolis and wax. Fasten a section folding block (which
is a piece of wood 4” x 4" x 14” or 2”) to a bench, or table, by
a screw through the centre of the block: take a section, and
carefully fold it upon the four sides of the block, fastening
the ends together: proceed until you have folded twenty-one
sections, which will be sufficient for one ordinary crate. If
the sections are very dry, and inclined to break at the corners,
damp them at the V cuts on both sides before folding.

258. Three Split Sections.—If you are using three split
sections (101), foundation can be fixed in three sections at one
time. Place three
sections in the
crate, as shown
(Fig. 85), and with
the unsplit sides
down: between the
further side of one
of the end sections
and the side of the
crate, push in a
wedge, to hold the
sections tightly:
draw out the nearer
halves of the sec-
tions, and drop in
a 123" x 4” or 4}!
sheet of — super
foundation : remove

Hibs Be. the wedge, and,
FIXING FOUNDATION IN THREE SPLIT with dhe follower
pe UTIONS: (106) press the sec-

cions together, so that the foundation may be gripped.
Remove the follower: put in one iong, or three short separators
(102): add three more sections; and proceed as before until the
crate has its full quantity. When the last row of sections is

SURPLUS HONEY. 141

in, press the rows together tightly by the follower, and wedge
the latter, either by clips, or wooden wedges, to keep all secure.
Scrape off the foundation appearing above the sections, and put
it aside (or the wax extractor (279). By this means sections
and crates can be filled very rapidly. If tin, or zinc bars are
used to carry the sections (103), the sheets of foundation must
be cut, to permit them to drop nearly to the bottom of the
sections. Separators between the sections must never be
omitted, for, otherwise, the bees may draw out the comb
beyond the wood of the sections, making it impossible to
pack the latter safely for transit; or, they may build comb to
comb, and work ruin in the crate.

259. Split Top Sections.—These sections (101) have a
bevelled split in one side, to grip the foundation, and, in fold-
ing, should have only one half of the split fastened at the
dove-tail, and that, what may be called the under-lap half.
Place several sheets of super foundation one upon the other,
and flush at the ends and sides: on these set the folding block,
flush with one end of the parcel; and, with a sharp knife cut
through the foundation; proceeding until you have a sufficient
number of squares cut, and taking care that the squares will
fit properly in the sections. Place an end of one square on
the bevel of the section top, and shut down and fasten the
other half, fixing the sheet of foundation so that it will hang
vertically in the section, and allowing just a little space at the
bottom to provide for possible stretching of the square. Place
each section, as it is finished, in the crate, with separators
between the rows, and the follower and wedges at the back.

260. Unsplit Sections.—Fixing foundation in unsplit sections
(101) is somewhat more troublesome. The plan frequently
recommended is, to prepare a folding block nearly half as thick
as the section is wide; the square of foundation is laid upon
the block, and the section is placed in position; melted wax
is then poured in at the upper edge of the foundation to fasten
it to the wood. There are simpler methods which work suffici-
ently well:—In a saucepan of hot water place a teaspoon,
handle down: bend the edge of the foundation at right angles,
and place it on the wood so that the square, when fastened,
will hang in the centre of the section: with the hot end of the
spoon, press the bent edge to the wood: the wax will melt and
adhere. In a warm room, the foundation can be readily fixed
by pressure. Place the section top-side down, and lay the square
of foundation on the inside of the top, projecting about 3”
beyond the centre, and held at the centre by a guide, which
may be made from a quarter section cut to the right width.
Pressure with any smooth instrument, such as the handle of a

1492 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

dinner knife, will cause the foundation to adhere to the wood.
Reverse the section, and arrange the foundation to hang
plumb.

261. Preparing Frames.—-Frames (97) are generally supplied
in the flat, the pieces being made to fit into and grip each other.
Fold your frames so that the angles at the corners shall be
true right angles, because the frame will not hang properly
in the hive or super box if it has been put together out of
square. Fasten the frame at the corners with small tacks, or
wire nails.

262. Wiring Frames.—All frames (cxcept shallow frames),
and especially those that are to come, some day, to the
extractor (134) should be wired, so that the foundation may
be well supported, and safe from breakage or sagging, with
the consequent evils. (118).

““Of course there are some who never wire their frames at all.
Happy-go-lucky in their methods, they trust much to the ‘lucky’ ;
happy, indeed, until] the combs lie broken in the extractor, and then
it is not any longer safe for a cat to laugh in the house! ’’—J. @. D.
in the Irish Bee Journal.

The frame having been fastened at the corners with tacks, or
thin wire nails, bore, with a fine bradawl, two holes through
each side of the
frame 13” or 2” from
the top bar and bot-
tom bar respectively,
at A, B, C, D: half
drive two small tacks
ih into the edge of one

easel “ASO side close to the
SSS holes A and D: pass
the wire through A,

Fig. 86. B and C; draw it

WIRED FRAME. over itself between

A and B; pass it
"= “through D, and give
5 the end a _ double
1 A twist round the tack
I at D: draw the wire
| 1, at C, and again at A,
i ‘"o until it assumes the
y i position shown (Tig.
4 d 86) and is tight
enough to “twang”:
give a double twist
round the tack at A:

Fig. 87.
WIKED FRAME.

SURPLUS HONEY, 143

drive home both tacks: and cut off the wire at A. The wire
may be fixed in the same way as directed above, but without
crossing it, if the parallel system be preferred (Fig. 87). With
a little practice, wiring, by cither method, can be done very
expeditiously.

263. Fixing Foundation in Frames.—The frames, commonly
used in this country, have two long grooves cut in the under
sides of the top bars; and long, wedge-shaped slips are supplied
with the frames. Brood foundation (112) is used in frames,
and is supplied in sheets of the proper size. To fix the founda-
tion, introduce an edge of the sheet into the groove in the
centre of the top bar: place the wedge in the other groove,
and press it home, thus gripping the foundation. Place the
frame on your wiring board (118), wires uppermost: and, witha
heated embedder (118), press the wires into the foundation so
that they will grip it, and that the wax melted by the embedder
may cover the wire. Put the frames, when completed, in
vacant hives, or super boxes; and cover up, safe from damy
and dust, mice and moths.

264. Three “ Dont’s.”—Do not allow the wood of the sections
to become soiled: dirty sections fetch low prices. Do not fall
into the absurd error of using only slips of foundation, or
“starters”: true economy calls for full sheets in sections and
frames (113). Do not put in the foundation wrong side up:
bees build their cells with vertical sides, and with angles at top
and bottom. (117).

265. The Honey Flow opens at the latter end of May, or in
June, according to the district, when nectar is secreted freely
in the flowers. When the flow opens, the bees begin to draw
out with new, white wax, the cells next the top bars of the
frames in the body box. Watch for this infallible sign, and,
immediately on perceiving it, give the stock a crate, or super
box.

266. Putting on Crates.—If you are working for section
honey, bring out a prepared crate (103) to the hive; and see
that the foundation hangs vertically in the sections, and that
separators have not been forgotten. Remove the roof, quilts,
and packing, leaving the sheet still on the frames. Take off
the riser (87), transferring the porch from it to the body box,
if not already done: and set the riser on the ground beside the
hive. Give a good coat of vaseline, or petroleum jelly (174)
to the bottom of the crate, and of the laths on which the sections
rest, so that they may not be tightly propolised to the frames
by the bees; and set the crate on the edges of the riser. Give
a puff or two of smoke to the bees, if you think it necessary,

144 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

—though it ought not to be necessary with this operation, and
if unnecessary, it should be avoided (180). Roll off the sheet,
and draw on the carbolic
cloth, as directed (177),
to drive the bees down,
and to avoid the risk of
crushing with the crate
any that may be on the
frame tops. With a piecc
of glass, or other
scraper, clean off any
wax or propolis from the
frame tops. If ten or
more frames are in the
body box, the crate will
fit properly across the
frames; if less than ten
frames are in, the crate
must be put on with its
sides running with the
frames; or, either a piece
of wood 17” long x 3”
thick, or, extra frames
covered with canvas or
ticking, must be added
PUTTING ON A CRATE, behind the dummy, to

prevent the escape of

bees from under the crate. Take the crate in one hand and
hold it just above the carbolic cloth (without touching the
latter, lest the vaseline be rubbed off), and in the position
which it is to occupy, as illustrated: with the other hand draw
out the carbolic cloth, quickly setting the crate upon the
frames, and arrange the crate to fit so that no bees may escape
outside it. Put on the sheet and the riser: pack all round the
crate with warm stuff, or newspapers: spread a couple of
newspapers on the sheet: and add the quilts and roof. If
crates be not kept warm, the bees will be slow to take to them,
and their work in the sections will be indifferently performed.
For the proper filling of sections, it is necessary that the bees
should be well crowded into the crates; and this points the
difficulty of working for perfect sections and at the same time
restraining swarming ; for, crowding, as we know, is an incite-
ment to swarming, and without a certain amount of crowding the
sections are likely to be built with pop holes at the corners,
and to be imperfectly drawn and fastened next the wood. Bees
are sometimes slow to take to the first crates at the beginning
of the season. They may be encouraged to start work above

SURPLUS HONEY, 145

if some sections with drawn out comb, or with comb containing
a little honey be given them. For this purpose it is useful to
keep over, in a warm, clean place, some unfinished sections
from the previous year (278). The Hanging Crate (107) may be
used to get sections started in the brood chamber, and these,
with the adhering bees, may be inserted in the first crates;
when, if the latter be kept warm, work will be commenced
there.

267. Putting on Super Boxes.—Super boxes (108), with
frames for extracting, are vaselined, and put on in the same
way as are crates, with these variations :—(r1), excluder zinc is
generally used (109), and (2), as super boxes with frames are

_ - heavier than crates of sec-
tions, the manner of re-
moving the carbolic cloth
and putting on the super
box, so as not to allow bees
to fly up during the opera-
tion, must be modified. If
you have an assistant, get
him to pull off the carbolic
cloth while you hold the
super box in position just
above the cloth, ready to
set it on the frames. If
you are alone, stand behind
the hive: hold the super
box down to the cloth,
which you will catch by the
edge with your right hand,

PUTTING ON A SUPER BOX. as illustrated: give your

hands a quick jerk to the
right, pulling off the cloth; and at once set on the super box.
With a little practice, this can be done so rapidly that, the bees
having been driven down by the carbolic, not one will have
time to escape before you have the super box on, and covered.
Another simple method is to stand at the side, and slide the
super box along the frames, pushing the carbolic cloth before
it. The objections to this method are, that a little propolis
or wax on the frame tops may cause a difficulty in sliding on
the super box; and, that unless your hive is so constructed
that the ends of the top bars are held by the outer hive walls,
as they should be (86), the sliding on of the super box may
press the frame ends against the inner walls of the hive and
may crush many bees, perhaps even killing the queen.

268. Use of Excluders.—Frames in the brood chamber should
hang one and a half inches from centre to centre. But in the

146 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

super box, spaces of two inches from centre to centre give
better results, because they enable the bees to build longer
cells, which, of course, hold more honey, and are easier to
uncap for extracting (276). When frames are used in this
way, the spaces between the shoulders must be filled, to pre-
vent the escape of bees. It is also claimed, for the two-inch
spacing, that the queen will not deposit eggs in combs so spaced
because of the depth of the cells, and that, therefore, excluders
under the frames are unnecessary. Many experienced bee-
keepers work their supers in this way, and avoid what,
certainly, is an objection to the excluder, namely, the impedi-
ment it offers to bees loaded with honey (109). But, it is better
to use an excluder than to have the combs, intended for honey,
occupied by brood; and, when frames in supers are spaced
one and a half inch from centre to centre, as in the brood
chamber, excluders should always be used. With respect to
the use of excluders under crates of sections, opinions differ
widely. In some districts, and with some stocks, excluders are
found to be necessary; in other cases, not. In cold, wet
seasons, queens will often go up to the warmer part of the hive
and take possession of the crates; and bees have been known,
in exceptionally unfavourable seasons, to rear queens in the
sections, and even to swarm, leaving frames of foundation in
the brood chamber untouched, and combs unoccupied. But,
making due allowance for the vagaries both of the climate and
the bees, crates may be generally used without excluders
underneath if sufficient room be given to the queen in the
brood chamber (193). When excluder zinc is used, it should
lie flat upon the frames, leaving no space at the edges for the
queen to ascend. It may be laid upon the carbolic cloth, and
held while the cloth is drawn from under it; then, if the cloth
be spread for a moment upon the excluder, "the super box, or
crate can be put on as directed above.

269. Tiering Crates.—In a good season, a strong stock may
require a second crate within a week. If honey is coming in
rapidly, and the days are fine, the second crate may be given
when it is seen that the bees have drawn out the foundation
in their sections, and are storing honey there. In the height
of the honey flow, swarming may be provoked by a day’s delay
in giving more super room when it is required. . Give the
second crate underneath the first one. Prepare it as before
(257); and set it on the riser beside the hive. Subdue the bees
with smoke. If the first crate has been well vasclined, it will
come off easily; if not, prise it up at the corners, and insert
bits cf broken sections there. If the laths on which the
sections rest are too thick or too thin, or if they have sagged,

SURPLUS HONEY. 147

the bees will, probably, have fastened them and the sections
to the frames (103); and the loosening may exasperate both the
bees and their owner. Grasp the crate with both hands, and
twist it gently to right and left until it is loose for removing ;
then twist it back to its original position for a moment. If
it is too tightly fastened to be loosened by twisting, draw a
piece of wire under it to cut the connections, and prise it up,
taking care not to allow bees to escape. If you have an
assistant, stand at the back of the hive. Raise the crate just
free from the frames, and take it off along, and not across the
frames; your helper following it closely with the carbolic cloth,
as illustrated (Page 151). If you are alone, stand at the side
of the hive. Take the carbolic cloth at two corners between
the fingers, with both hands, and let it hang down outside the
hive as shown—at the side, if your frames hang parallel with
the entrance; at the front if the frames run from

REMOVING A ORATE.

front to back—in which case your position will be at the
back. Grasp the crate, ease it, and take it along, and
not across the frames, letting the carbolic cloth cover the
frames as you remove the crate. Hold the crate for a
moment over the cloth, to cause the bees to run up into the
sections; then, set it upon the second crate, and lift both back
on to the frames, drawing away the cloth as directed above
(267), and settling the crates evenly upon the frames. The
sheet and quilts not having been taken off the first crate,
the operation may be carried out without allowing any bees
to give trouble. This tiering up of crates (Fig. 88) may be

148 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

continued while the honey flow lasts, the empty crate being
placed underneath. The upper crates may be removed when
finished, and before the faces of the combs become soiled by
the constant coming and going of the bees: but, if the crates
F : be tiered up until the close
of the honey flow, the honey
will keep its flavour best on
the hive; and the bees,
having so much room, will
be less inclined to swarm,
and, not being deprived of
their stores, will be less in-
clined to give trouble. Ina
good season, as many as five
crates may be required for
a strong stock; in which
case, if tiering be practised,
an extra make-shift riser will
be required, and assistance
in lifting the crates together
will be necessary. It is a
good plan to use a Divisional
Crate (104) for the last addi-
tion to the tier, and at the
Fig. g close of the season whcre
ba een tiering is not practised; be-
Gata CEO SETE RED cause, seven or fourteen
sections may be given, when the season has advanced too far
to admit of twenty-one sections being added with any prospect
of their being filled and sealed; and, because the parts may
be removed as the sections in each are completed, the last,
unfinished sections being placed over the centre of the cluster.
The Hanging Crate (107) may be used to get sectioas completed
in the brood chamber.

270. Doubling and Storifying.—When extracted honey is
being worked for, “ Doubling” may be practised with excellent
results, both as regards the harvest that may be obtained from
it, and the restraint it exercises upon the swarming impulse.
About three weeks before the opening of the honey flow (265),
rake, from a strong stock, all the frames containing brood,
except one, on which the queen must be left: return the adher-
ing bees to their hive; and fill the vacancies with frames of
comb or of foundation. Place the frames of brood in another
body box, or in a super box, and set them on top of a second
strong stock, with an excluder (109) underneath, thus doubling
the hive (Fig. 89). The stock, increasing daily by the emerg-
ing brood in both storeys, will become very strong, and will be
capable of storing honey very rapidly in the upper frames as

SURPLUS HONEY. 149

the brood there
hatches out. The
combs of honey
may be removed
from above to
have their con-
tents extracted,
and to be returned
at once to the
hive for refilling,
drones being re-
moved; or, the
two storeys may
be used as brood
chambers, and a
third and a fourth
storey may _ be
placed on top for
Fig 89. honey only, the
HIVE DOUBLED. excluder zinc be-
ing placed above the brood chambers, to safeguard the upper
storeys from the queen’s attentions. When the combs in the
uppermost storey have been filled, they can have their honey
extracted, and may be returned upon the excluder, the un-
finished storeys being placed above them.

Fig. 90.
SKEP WITH SUPER CASE AND ROOF.

150 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

271. Supering Skeps.—Skeps with flat tops (78) may be
supplied with crates. A “riser,” or case (Fig. 90), 9” deep,
and large enough to hold a crate, is fitted with a false bottom
4" from the top. A hole in the false bottom, corresponding
with the hole in the top of the skep, is covered with excluder
zinc. The riser is fastened to the skep by four nails; and a
deep roof permits the use of two tiered crates.

272. Removing Supers.—When the honey flow is over, and
the nights grow chill, the bees will begin to take down honey
from the supers to the brood frames. Therefore, supers should
be removed in good time, and it is better to remove them a
little too soon than a little too late. This is an operation which

T. W. H. BANFIELD SUPERING A SKEP,

requires some care, in order to avoid the risk of setting up
robbing (307), and of exasperating the bees. The point to be
aimed at is to take away the supers so skilfully as neither to
expose honey to the bees outside, nor to put too severe a strain
upon the patience of the bees within.

273. Use of Cone Escapes.—On fine, warm days, the cone
escapes (Fig. 91) in the hive roof may be used, with some
success, to clear the supers of bees. Through a round hole
14” in diameter, in the front gable of the roof, a cone escape
is passed from the inside, and tacked; and a second cone is

SURPLUS HONEY. 151

fitted on the outside (88).
Early in the day, hav-
ing lifted the crates or
super boxes, as directed
above, draw, or get an
assistant to draw, a
towel over the frames,
covering them com-
pletely. Set the supers
back upon the towel:
remove the sheet and
Vig. 91.—(a) CONE ESCAPE. other coverings: and
(b) DANGER! QUEEN ON THE CONE. put on the roof. If
there be no hole in the towel, the bees in the supers will be
unable to get down to the frames: they will come to the top
of the supers, and, seeing the light through the cones,
they will pass out that way, returning to the hive
through the usual entrance; and in the evening the
supers should be free from bees. If there be a ventilator
in any other part of the roof, it should be closed, so that the
bees may sce light
only through the
cones. There are,
however, some ob-
jections to the
use of cone
escapes for this
purpose; for, if
the day be cold or
wet, the bees will
not leave the hive
roof; and if there
should be, in the
crates, young bees
that have not yet
been on the wing,
they may be lost
on emerging from
the cones.

274. The Super
Clearer (Fig. 92)
has simplified the

REMOVING A FRAME SUPER. once laborious and
7 trying operation
of removing surplus honey from bees. It is useful, also, when
extracted combs require to be cleaned up by the bees before
being stored away (278). It consists of a 2” x 2” frame of

152 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

wood, 17” long x 153” wide, in which is a panel 3” thick, bee
space being thus provided on both sides of the panel when the
clearer is in position on the hive. In the centre of the panel
is inserted a bee escape, and at one side, near the frame, is a
13" hole, which may be opened or closed by a shutter worked
from the edge of the frame. When the clearer is placed on a
hive, and supers are

} set upon it, the bees
pass down from the
supers through the
escape, and cannot
= z va return. The side hole
/ is opened only when
f/ it is desired to admit
i) the bees to the combs
for cleaning up pur-
poses (278). The
Fig. 2. combs are placed

SUD CREAR: upon the clearer, and

the side hole being open, the bees quickly take down every
particle of honey, and leave the combs perfectly dry. The
shutter is then
closed, and the
bees clear through
the escape. The
super clearer has
this advantage
over the cone es-
cape (273) that,
whereas the cone
Pig. 93. escape operates
PORTER ESCAPE. only during day-
es light, and upon genial days, the
super clearer can be worked by
day and night, and no matter
what the weather outside may be.
The “Porter” Bee Escape (Fig.
93), for super clearers, is a metal
box, with an arrangement of deli-
cate springs which permit bees to
pass out. Sometimes, however,
an “awkward drone,” getting
stuck in the passage, bars the
way against all others, and thus
0 renders the escape inoperative.
Fig. 94. In use, the round hole is on top.
“FEDERATION” ESOAPE. The “Federation” Bee Escape

SURPLUS HONEY, 153

(Fig. 94), for super clearers, is not so liable to get blocked
as is the Porter escape. The bees pass through a tube which
is large enough to admit drones frecly; they then drop upon
atin platform, and get down through a hole in the centre, under
the tube. Inthe illustration, the perforated zinc has been cut,
in order to disclose the tube. In use, the perforated zinc is on
top. The escape is made of timber 16}” x 144” x 4”, On
this a frame of 14” x 4” stuff is nailed above and below, pro-
jecting 3” all round. Thus the escape measures 173” x 15}!
out to out. The hole in the panel is 2” in diameter; the tube
is 2” long and 3” in diameter; and the hole in the piece of tin
underneath is 3". A groove is cut in the panel to admit the
tube. A piece is cut from the upper side of the tube, where it
extends outside the perforated zinc, to give free access to the
bees. At one side of the panel, and }” from the inside edge of
the frame, a hole 14” x 3” is cut through. When not required,
this hole is closed by a tin slide 33” x 2”, which is slipped
under the frame, and turned up outside; a slit is made in the
slide, and a nail driven through the frame and slit permits the
slide to move in and out, 7.e., to cover the hole when supers are
being cleared, or to leave it free to the bees when the object is
to return combs for cleaning up purposes.

275. Use of the Super Clearer.—Super clearers permit the
bees to pass down from the supers without having to leave the
warmth of the hive, and, therefore, they may be used by day
or night, and in all kinds of weather. Examine the clearer,
and sce that the escape is in working order, and that the side
hole (274) is closed. Set the clearer beside the hive, right side
up: lift the supers; set them on the clearer; and put all back
on the frames, without removing the sheet and quilts. The
bees will pass down to the body box, and, next day, the supers
will, probably, be found emptied of bees, and may be removed,
little disturbance of the colony having been caused by the
operation (397).

154 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XXIII.
EXTRACTING HONEY.

276. Extracting.—Let your extracting be done in-doors, so
as not to provoke robbing. Where this is not always possible,
extracting may sometimes be safely done out of doors in the
height of the honey flow, when bees are not inclined to rob,
and if due precautions be taken to protect the combs and honey
from any little pilferer who, having once got a taste of the
sweets, may quickly lead many others to the spot, and thus
set up general robbing at the hives (307). When there are
many combs to be extracted, time will be saved if two un-
capping knives be used (135). See that the edges are as sharp
as they can be made, and heat the blades in a vessel of hot
water while in use. Lay a strong lath across a crock,
or other similar vessel. Take up one of the frames; hold it
with one end resting on the lath; and, with your uncapping
knife, working from the bottom upwards, pare off the cappings,
inclining the frame towards the knife so that the cappings, as
they are pared off, may fall into the vessel underneath. Having
uncapped both sides, proceed in the same way with a second
frame. Put the frames, ends up, in the extractor (134), one
in each cage, and so that, in revolving, the bottom bars of
the frames will travel first. Turn the handle, slowly at
first, and increasing in speed by degrees, being careful not
to revolve the cages so furiously as to break the combs. The
centrifugal force will throw the honey out of the cells. When
one side of each comb is finished, or nearly so, reverse the
frames in the cages, and extract from the other sides. With
new, soft comb, it is better to extract only about half from
one side, then reversing, and returning to the first side to
finish. Honey, being more fluid when warm than when cold,
may be extracted more easily if it has just been taken off the
hive, and if the extractor is warmed with boiling water immedi-
ately before use, and is kept near a good fire during the
operation. With extractors which are not geared, the turning
of the handle is often a laborious job when a number of combs
have to be done. The work may be simplified by arranging
what may be called a “cord gearing” by means of a strong
cord, about four feet long, with a loop on one end, which is

155

EXTRACTING HONEY.

‘sobbiq “9 “£)

“AUNOH ONILOVULXY

(49 0204

156 fIlE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

slipped over the handle. The operator then stands out from
the extractor (as illustrated); gets the cord at right angles
with the handle-crank; gives a slight pull at the cord with one
finger, thus revolving the cages, and assisting each revolution
by another slight pull. With a few minutes’ practice one can
extract honey in this way with little exertion. Sections that
are not completely filled, or that are otherwise unfit for the
market, may have their honey extracted in the same way, six
sections being placed in each cage. All cappings may have
the adhering honey pressed out, and may then be rendered into
wax (279). Heather honey requires special treatment, and can
be thoroughly separated from the comb only by means of the
honey press (137). <A piece of clean cheese cloth, large enough
to fold down to the bottom, is placed over the top of the press.
The combs are placed in the press vertically, as they hung in
the hive; the cheese cloth is folded over them; the plunger is
then brought over, and the screw is revolved. The honey falls
to the drawer beneath, and the wax is lifted out in the cloth.
(See also 400-402.)

2771. Stvaining and Ripening.—Extracted honey may be
strained from the extractor into a ripener (136), and should be
left, for a few days, covered, in some place with a high tem-
perature, after which the honey may be bottled for market
(306), the thin honey on the top being used for bee food only.

278. Cleaning Extracted Combs.—Frames and _ sections,
having had their honey extracted, may be given to the bees
to clean up before being stored away for use in the next
season. Place a super clearer (274) on the frames of a strong
stock; and, in the evening, when the bees have ceased flying,
draw open the side trap; set the frames and sections on the
clearer; and cover up, safe from marauding bees. The bees of
the colony will come up through the side trap, and carry down
all the honey, leaving the combs clean and dry. The side
trap may then be closed, when, the bees above the clearer will
pass down through the trap in the centre, and will not be able
to return. The same object can be attained by giving the
combs behind the dummy, leaving a kee space between the
dummy and the floor board; or behind the “Federation”
dummy (95), with excluder zinc attachment. Frames and
sections, when cleaned, should be removed, wrapped carefully
in clean paper, and stored away in some dry place, safe from
mice, flies, and other adventurers (371). It is a good plan to
keep over, for the following season, a few unfinished sections,
having a little honey in them, for use as “bait sections” in
the first crates; thus coaxing the bees to take to those crates,
and to begin work at once. (266).

BXTRACTING WAX. 157

CHAPTER XXIV.
EXTRACTING WAX.

279. Use of Wax Extractors.—Wax is so valuable that no
careful bee-keeper will permit the smallest piece of it to be
wasted. Clippings of foundation, cappings removed from
combs, and old or broken combs, should be collected and
rendered, either for sale, or for manufacture into foundation.
The light coloured, and the dark coloured wax should be
rendered separately, as the former fetches the higher price.
As already described, both the Solar Wax Extractor (139) and
the Steam Wax Extractor (140) give good results. The combs
should be soaked for twenty-four hours in cold water before
being rendered. The best coloured wax is obtained by means
of extractors; but a large amount of wax remains in the debris,
and, it is only by subjecting it to considerable pressure while
hot, that the mass can be made to yield nearly all its wax.
This is especially the case when old combs are being dealt
with. (See also 404.)

280. Extracting by Eoiling.—A third method of rendering
Wax may be adopted as follows:—Soak the wax in water for
twenty-four hours, as directed (279). Into a canvas bag, or a
clean, closely-made sack, put a large stone: throw in also all
the wax that is to be melted: and tie the bag tightly. Place
the bag in a farm boiler, or a large pot, of rain water, with a
piece of wood under the bag to prevent burning. When the
water has boiled for a couple of hours (or less in the case of
clean, fresh combs), let it cool: and, when cold, remove the
cake of wax from the top. Scrape the dirty wax from the
bottom of the cake into the bag, and boil it again for two or
three hours, when, on cooling, a cake of inferior wax may be
taken off. The first cake should be broken up, and put into
an enamelled vessel of hot water, and the vessel set in a pot
of boiling water near the fire until the wax melts, after which
it can be poured into shapes, and cooled slowly, as before.
The colour of the inferior wax may be improved by adding a
little vitriol to the water in which it is boiled, in the proportion
of three tablespoonfuls of vitriol to ten gallons of water.
Smaller quantities may be wrapped in a piece of cheese cloth
and suspended over a vessel of water in the oven. When melted,
cooling must be very gradual to avoid cracks. The wax cake
may be removed from the vessel of water when cold (404).

158 THE PRACLICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XXV.
QUEEN REARING AND INTRODUCTION.

281. Old Queens.—Attention has already been called to the
necessity for supplying young, prolific queens to all stocks
requiring them (212). Too much emphasis cannot be laid
upon the fact that queens past their second year care past their
prime (188). The bee-keeper who desires to work his stocks
to the best advantage, will not fail to supplant all such queens.
He will not be content to leave this most important part of his
work to take care of itself. Either he will purchase good
queens from other queen-raisers, and thus introduce new blood
into his apiary; or he will do his own queen rearing. It is
quite certain that, in this country, the supplanting of old queens
is not attended to as it should be. This may be due to the
supposed difficulty of rearing queens. There are so
many capable workers of bees who are satisfied with average
harvests, satisfied with the second best, and deterred from
attempting to rear their own queens, because of the trouble or
the difficulty which they think that that part cf a bee-man’s
work involves. Bee-keeping can never be raised to the level
to which it ought to attain, until queen-rearing is practised, not
by the few, but by the many.

282. Defective Queens.—Sometimes queens are found to he
defective, and their places must be supplied bv fertile queens
if the colony is to be preserved. Queens that have not been
impregnated within three weeks after leaving the cell usually
become drone breeders (188). Queens that have beeu chilled,
or half starved, or that have been “ balled” (296), or injured in
the hive, may lose their fertility and become useless. The
bees will generally supplant such queens, but they cannot do
so unless the conditions are favourable (186), nor without loss
of valuable time.

283. Queeniessness.—Beside the necessity for supplanting
aged, and defective queens, there often arises a necessity for
supplying fertile quecns to stocks whose queens have been
lost, or killed, or that have died natural deaths. This is an
urgent need which, whether it be observed or not, presents
itself more frequently than many suppose. At the time of
swarming, queens are sometimes lost if they alight apart from
the swarm, undiscovered by the bees or the owner. Unskilful,

QUEEN REARING AND INTRODUCTION. 159

or careless manipulations of frames are accountable for the
crushing and death of many queens (182). When they leave
the hive to meet the drones, some queens, either through some
defect of their wings hindering their return, or through the
assaults of birds, or of strong winds, fail to reach their homes
again. By far the largest number of lost queens become lost
through their inability to recognise their own hives, when
returning from their wedding flight (147). And this disaster
is frequently due to the habit of using hives so close together,
and so similar in their make, colour, and situation, that,
although the virgin queen takes all due precautions to mark
the position of her own hive before her flight (21), it is next
to impossible for her to distinguish it from the others when
she returns, and, entering a strange hive by mistake, she is
immediately killed. This is a fact of sufficient importance to
point the necessity for keeping careful watch over all casts and
swarmed stocks until one is satisfied of the mating and Jaying
of the queens; and, also, to lead to the re-arrangement cf any
apiary (391) in which the conditions are such as favour the loss
of newly-mated queens. And it should be noted that, although
a colony deprived of its queen can, in certain circumstances,
supply the loss (17), if the loss occur when there are neither
eggs nor larve under three days old in the combs (as in the
case of a swarmed stock, or a cast), a new queen cannot be
raised, and the colony, if left to itself, must dwindle and
perish,

284. Signs of Queenlessness.—When a colony has become
queenless, the fact may soon be discovered by observing the
conduct of the bees. They hurry about the hive, in and
out, and over the porch, sides, and roof, as if in search
of their lost mother. This may continue for two or three days;
after which work is resumed, but, in a listless, half-hearted
way: the bees returning from the fields loiter about the alight-
ing board, with little apparent anxiety to enter the hive, and
a general air of indifference prevails in the colony. In spring,
they carry in little or no pollen, there being no brood to feed.
In late autumn and winter, they permit the drones to remain
in the hive. Such signs as these will indicate to the owner
that something is wrong with the colony; and, if on examin-
ing the frames he finds no queen, and neither eggs nor brood,
at a time when they ought to be present, or only the eggs or
brood of a drone-breeder (188.200), he will know that he can
save the colony only by taking measures for re-queening it,
or by uniting it with another stock.

285. Nucleus Hives.—The proper time to begin preparations
for queen rearing is in the winter, when, a supply of nucleus

160 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

hives, sufficient to meet the needs of the apiary, should be
prepared. Hives which are not required for other purposes,
can be temporarily transformed into nucleus hives, so that they
may be turned to use again for swarms and stocks at a
moment’s notice. Divide the hive into three parts, by inserting
two close-fitting dummies (93). Make an opening, 3” deep
(371), in the back, and another midway in one side, level with
the floor board, to form two additional entrances. Part of a
broken section, tacked to a piece of inch wood nailed or screwed
below the augur hole, will serve as an alighting board; and
a porch, or rain shoot, may be similarly constructed. When
the hive is required again for a stock or swarm, all that will
be necessary will be to remove one or both dummies, and to
stop the augur holes with corks. Nucleus hives may be inex-
pensively made up from grocers boxes (Fig. 95), provided that
; the timber be sweet and
clean. They should’ be
made to take three, four,
or five frames, and should
measure internally 143%"
long x o” deep. If the
sides be made 17” long,
and if the end pieces be
83” deep and be nailed 143”
apart, two pieces can be
fastened to cnclose the
frame shoulders, and the
bottom board can be also
17" long, to provide an
alighting place for the
bees. The sides may be
Fig. 95. made of 11” timber, which
MAKESHIFT NUCLEUS HIVE. will leave a space of 2"
; above the frames for quilts,
etc.; but a shallow riser (87), which would admit of the use of
a feeder, would be preferable. A piece of board, two or three
inches longer, and wider than the hive, may be set on for a
roof, and if a brick or a heavy stone be laid on top, it will keep
all secure. Legs may be added, or the hive may be set upon a
couple of bricks, with a tilt to the front, or back, to throw off
rain.

286. Queen Rearing.—EFarly in the spring, the scene of
operations will be transferred to the stocks which are to be
used. It should be borne in mind that, to secure the best
results, the young queens should be reared when the stocks
are strong, when nectar is coming in rapidly, when drones
are on the wing, and when the condition of the stocks is such

QUELN REARING AND INTRODUCTION, 161

as prevails in the swarming season; and, also, that the queen
rearing should be from the eggs of those queens which are in
their prime, 7.e., in their second year, and which have dis-
tinguished themselves as the best in the apiary by reason of
the excellence of their laying powers, and the vigour and dili-
gence of their progeny. It is desirable, further, that the
mating of the young queens should be with the best drones,
the temperament of the progeny being largely influenced by
the male element. If you have a sufficient number of stocks
to permit of two being set apart for the purpose, select two
of the most desirable (A and B), and keep up regular stimula-
tive feeding (192), and the other methods already described
(193) to bring the two stocks rapidly to full strength. When
the hive B (which is to rear the drones), is sufficiently strong,
insert two drone combs, or two frames of drone foundation,
in the centre of the brood nest, and do not permit the feeding
ta flag, so that drones may be flying from that hive in time
.o fertilise the young queens. To carry the preparations
further, drone breeding may be limited, or prevented in the
other stocks, by cutting out or removing all drone comb, and
by supplying only worker comb or worker foundation. (195).

287. Using a Swarmed Stock.—Suppose that the good stock
(A) sends off a prime swarm. The swarm may be hived, and
placed upon the stand previously occupied by the parent stock,
and may receive from the latter the supers, and ‘he flying bees
returning to their old stand (240). That swarm should give
a good account of itself. The parent stock is removed to
anot..er part of the apiary and examined. It will be found
to have a number of queen cells, and a good supply of young
bees upon, let us suppose, nine or ten frames. Now, a pre-
pared hive, with three compartments, or three nucleus hives,
being at hand, the combs with the bees from the parent stock
are inserted, so as to form three nuclei, each having one or
two queen cells. When a queen has been hatched and fertil-
ised, she can be introduced to a stock which requires requeen-
ing, and the nucleus from which she has been taken may be
used to rear more queens. Eventually the two dummies may
be removed, and the bees may be united into one stock (246),
or, the bees and frames may be given to other stocks. This
operation, it will be seen, has the recommendation of extreme
simplicity.

288. The Returned Swarm Method.—A plan which is some-
times adopted is, to let the best stock swarm, and from this,
the prime or first swarm, to remove the old queen, allowing
the swarm to return to the hive. Nine days later the swarm,
increased in size, will re-issue, headed by a virgin queen.

162 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

The swarm is then hived on the stand of the parent stock,
which latter is moved to a new stand, or is divided into
four or five nuclei, each provided with a ripe queen cell of its
own rearing.

289. Using an Unswarmed Stock.—When the desired drones
begin to hatch out in hive B (286) insert a frame of worker
comb, or of worker foundation in the centre of the brood nest
of hive A. On the third or fourth day, if eggs have been
deposited in that frame, transfer the queen and three frames,
one of brood and two of honey, with the adhering bees, to a
nucleus hive, pushing a little grass into the entrance to pre-
vent the bees from returning at once to their old home. Supply
syrup if necessary. Remove also from hive A all combs
having unsealed larve, returning the adhering bees, and give
the combs to other stocks. Now take out the frame which
you inserted in the centre of the brood nest, and in which the
queen has deposited eggs, and with a penknife, cut “ scollops,”
or V-cuts, from the bottom of the comb up to where the eggs
are found, and with a pencil or a match, enlarge the cells at
the apex of each scollop, to encourage the bees to build a queen
cell there: or, cut holes through the comb immediately under
the eggs, returning the frame as quickly as possible, and cover-
ing up the brood nest warmly (338). If honey and pollen are
not coming in plentifully, you must supply them artificially
(192) during the next few days. Nine or ten days after the
scolloping of the comb, there should be a quantity of queen
cells upon it; and you must then prepare nucleus colonies to
receive them.

290. Forming Nuclei.—Take, from a strong stock, one frame
of honey and two frames of brood, with the adhering bees,
supplying their places with frames of comb or of foundation,
and insert the removed frames and bees in a nucleus hive
(285), taking care to leave the queen in the parent hive. Stop
the entrance of the nucleus hive with grass: arrange obstacles
about it as directed elsewhere (156) to cause the bees, when
they fly, to mark the new situation: supply food: and, should
the colony become reduced too much by bees returning to the
old hive, shake some more, and preferably young bees, into it
from the parent stock, or from other stocks, using, in the latter
case, the precautions described under the head of “ Uniting
Bees” (244). Place the nucleus at some distance from the
other stocks, and continue the operation until a sufficient
number of nuclei have been formed.

_ 291. Inserting Queen Cells.__Having, on the ninth or tenth
day, formed your nuclei, supply them with ripe queen cells on

QUEEN REARING AND INTRODUCTION. 163

the following day, by which time they will have realised their
queenless condition, and will be prepared to receive assistance.
When queen cells are ripe, that is, within two or three days of
hatching, the bees remove some of the wax from the points of
the cells, thus roughening them, and facilitating the egress
of the young queers, and enabling the bee-keeper to recognise
the cells as ripe, and ready for use. You must remember that
frames with queen cells will not admit of being cleared (184) by
shaking or thumping, and that on no account must the royal
brood be suffered to become chilled during the operation of
transfer. Gently drive the bees off one of the ripe cells with a
carbolic feather: cut out the cell with a piece of the comb
above it (Fig. 96): return the frame to its hive: and insert the
queen cell between two combs of a nucleus, fastening it by
thinning the attached piece of comb and turning it down
upon the frame-top, pressing it flat. If the queen cell has
been built upon the face of a comb, cut round the queen cell,
right through the comb; and, from the brood comb of the
nucleus cut out a piece the same size; and
insert in its place the piece with the queen
cell. The cell must not be pressed in the
least by the fingers. A couple of days later,
examine to see whether the cell has been
accepted; and, if it is found to have been
destroyed and other cells to have been built,
remove the latter, and give another ripe
queen cell. The risk of chilling the queen
brood may be avoided by heating in the fire
a 4-0z. weight, or other piece of metal, until
Fig. 96. it is as hot as you can bear in the hand:
OUEEN CELL, cut Place this in a small box, and cover it with
OUT FOR INSER- three or four thicknesses of felt: lay the
TION. queen cells upon the felt, close the box and
put it in your pocket. This will keep the
cells and their brood warm while you are preparing to inseri
them in their new positions.

292. Management of Nuclei.—When all the nuclei have been
supplied with queen cells, they must be warmly covered up,
and gently fed with syrup. There is a danger of the bees of
a nucleus leaving the hive with the young queen when the latter
takes her mating flight. If a frame of young brood be given
to them, they will not be likely to forsake it. The original
queen of hive A (289), with her attendant bees, may then be
returned to her old home; or she may be used elsewhere, in
which case the parent stock should have one or two of the queen
cells left to it. If, however, more queens be required, the

164 THE PRACLICAL BEE GULDE.

parent stock may have another frame of eggs from the same
queen given to it, and that stock may be kept at queen rearing
all the season. When the young queens of the nuclei have been
fertilised, and have begun to lay, they may be introduced (295)
to the stocks which need them, or may be utilised otherwise
as desired,

Photo from life] Fig. 97. [by J. G. Digges.
QUEEN REARING—QUEEN CELL ON PREPARED FRAME,

293. Using Two Stocks.—When two stocks can be spared,
one to produce the eggs, and another to rear the queens, the
following plan may be adopted with good results :—Select the
best stock (A.), and the second best (C.). Into the centre of
the brood nest of A. put a frame of foundation. From C. re-
move the queen and three frames, one of brood and two of
honey, with the adhering bees, and place them in a third hive,
taking the precautions suggested above (289). Three or four
days later, open hive C. and rub off all queen cells that have
been formed upon the combs. Take from A. the frame
given it, which should have a quantity of eggs of the right
age in its cells; “scollop,” or otherwise prepare it as directed
above (289); put it in the middle of the brood nest of C., and
leave it for ten days, when you should find upon it a quantity
of queen cells within two days of hatching. Now form nuclei,
as described above (290), and give to each one or two queen

QUEEN REARING AND INTRODUCTION. 165

cells, and one or two queen cells to the nucleus in which is the
queen of stock C., which queen you may return to C. by the
“direct method” to be described below (299). By this means
you have queens raised from eggs laid by your best queen, and
nursed by the bees of another good stock, which is always
desirable. The illustration above (Fig. 97) shows a modi-
fication of the former plan, which has some distinct advantages.
Cut two pieces of wood, 3” x #”, and long enough to fit into
a frame. Make two saw-cuts in an edge of each, 23” and 5”
respectively from one end: tack them into the ends of the frame,
with the saw-cuts to the centre: cut two thin 3” laths to slide
in and out of the saw-cuts, thus making three miniature
frames. Remove the queen from stock C. Three days later
cut a 4” piece of comb with eggs from your best stock A. Make
strips of this piece, by running a knife through alternate rows
of cells: with a sharp, hot knife cut down the cells on one side
to half their depth: destroy every alternate egg on that side
with a match: fasten the strips (prepared cells downwards)
to the top bar and laths with melted wax: and give the frame
to stock C., after rubbing off all queen cells started there. Nine
days afterwards you should have a number of queen cells built
on the top bar and moveable laths, and these cells you can
distribute as required. Give more strips of comb with eggs
to stock C. You can keep that stock rearing queens all the
season. The illustration above, which is from a photograph,
shows the prepared frame with all the queen cells removed,
save one left to the bees to enable them to re-queen themselves.

294. Distributing the Nuclei.—When the nuclei are no longer
required for queen rearing, the bees and frames can be distri-
buted among the stocks in the apiary, or they can be formed
into one stock, headed by a young queen.

295. Queen Introduction.— Most of the methods of safe
introduction at present in use are based upon the belief,
gathered from experience, that, if a colony be really queenless,
and if a new queen can be introduced, and protected from
assault until she has acquired the peculiar scent of the colony,
and until the bees have become accustomed to her, she will
be accepted. The operation requires care on the part of the
bee-keeper, because, there is always some danger, and often
ae danger that the queen may be roughly treated and even
<illed.

_ 296. Balling the Queen.—When the bees of a colony are
intent upon regicide, they usually surround the queen, enclos-
ing her in a living ball, so firm and close that it is not always
easy to break it up. This is known among bee-keepers as
“balling the queen.” A strange queen, carelessly introduced,

166 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

or liberated in a colony that is being attacked by robber bees,
so that the queen may be mistaken for an enemy; and even
the queen of the colony, when manipulations are carried on
at unseasonable times, may be balled and hugged to death,
before the owner can discover the mischief and remedy it.
The poetic fancy of Maeterlinck who, while he admits that
“bees are not sentimental,” will not allow the possibility of
individual disloyalty in the hive, attributes the balling of the
queen to a law which “invests her person, whoever she be,
with a sort of inviolability,” and prohibits the direct assault
of any one bee—

““No bee, it would seem, dare take un itself the horror of direct
and bloody regicide. Whenever, therefore, the good order and pros-
perity of the republic appear to demand that a queen shall die,
they endeavour to give her death some semblance of natural disease,
and by infinite subdivision of the crime, to render it almost anonymous,
They will, therefore, to use the picturesque expression of the apiarist,
‘ball’ the queenly intruder; in other words, they will entirely sur-
round her with their innumerable, interlaced bodies. They will
thus form a sort of living prison, wherein the captive is unable to
move; and in this prison they will keep her for twenty-four hours,
if need be, till the victim die of suffocation or hunger.” —Maeterlinek.

Huber thus describes the balling of the queen—

“Tf another queen is introduced into the hive within twelve hours
after the removal of the reigning one, they surround, seize, and keep
her a very long time captive, in an impenetrable cluster, and she
commonly dies either from hunger or want of air. If eighteen
hours elapse before the substitution of a stranger-queen, she is treated,
at first, in the same way, but the bees leave her sooner, nor is the
surrounding cluster so close; they gradually disperse, and the queen
is at last liberated; she moves languidly, and sometimes expires in
a few minutes. Some, however, escape in good health, and after-
wards reign in the hive.”’—Huber.

When a valuable queen has been balled, prompt measures
should be taken for her release. If one endeavours to break
up the ball with his fingers, or with the aid of a smoker, it fre-
quently happens that, when the outside bees disperse, one or
more of those in immediate contact with the queen will sting
and kill her. But if the ball be dropped into a small basin of
water, it will fall to pieces; the alarm will be so great that the
murderous design will be abandoned; and the queen may be
rescued unhurt.

297. Use of Queen Cages.—In order to give the strange queen
time to acquire the scent of the colony, and to permit the bees

QUEEN REARING AND INTRODUCTION. 167

to become accustomed to her before her release, she should be
caged on one of the centre combs containing brood and un-
capped honey. The pipe cover cage (Fig. 98)
is the least complicated and most useful cage
for the purpose. Pick up the queen, and let
her run up into the cage, sliding a card under-
neath. Take out the centre comb: uncap a
few honey cells next to capped brood: put
fees *. down the cage so that it will cover some un-
~~ capped honey: withdraw the card; and press
Fig. 98. or screw the rim into the comb as far as the
EIEE-COVER. mid-rib, or the bases of the cells, carefully
cAGe: avoiding injury to the queen in any way. Do
not disturb the bees again for at least twenty-four hours, or
for two or three days if the colony has been long queenless.
Releasing is safer if done in the evening, when the bees have
quieted down. If, on releasing her, the bees on the comb
show any inclination to crowd or molest the queen, cage her
again until the next day. Sometimes the bees will release the
queen themselves by eating through the comb; and, if a circu-
lar piece of the comb be cut from the opposite side, under the
cage, and be put back again, the bees will be encouraged to
release and welcome the queen in that way. Of course, there
must not be another queen in the hive, and if there be any
queen cells on the combs, they should be removed. The Abbott
Queen Cage (Fig. 99) is a device by which a
queen may be imprisoned in the midst of the
cluster, and released without exciting the bees
or uncovering the hive. The cage is slipped
between two of the frames; the queen is ad-
mitted at the top; and, when the wire is
drawn up, an exit at the bottom opens and
allows her to pass out.

298. Introduction by Artificial Swarming.—
As it is found that bees of a swarm will gene-
rally accept a new queen readily, queens are
sometimes introduced by making an artificial
swarm of the stock (222), removing the old
queen, and shaking the bees off the frames
before an empty skep placed on their stand.
rene ee The hive is then replaced on the stand, and

CAGE, the bees are shaken on to a hiving board, the

new queen being dropped among them as they
run in. This plan is not only troublesome, but is attended
with extra risks, and there is danger of having the brood
chilled during the operation.

168 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

299. Direct Introduction.—It is found that a new queen can
generally be introduced safely if run into the hive from above,
at night, without disturbance of the stock, and when the queen
is in a hungry condition, and, therefore, ready to accept food
from the bees, and to show neither fear nor fight. Remove
the old queen a few hours before night-fall. When darkness
is setting in take out the young queen, and put her into
a match-box, keeping her without food for not less than half
an hour. When it is quite dark, take a lantern to the stock:
quietly raise a corner of the quilt, and let the young queen
run out of the match-box down among the frames: cover up:
and do not open that hive again until at least 48 hours after-
wards. The same match-box must not be used for another
queen. This is the “direct method” introduced by Mr.
Simmins many years ago, and one of the simplest and most
successful methods that can be adopted.

300. Sending Queens per Post.—Queens, being sent per post,
or upon any long journey, require to have some attendant bees,
and a supply of suitable food en route. The simplest travelling
box (Fig. 100), one that can be made without expense, and that
has been used with satisfac-
tory results, consists of a
piece of soft wood 3”x1"x 3",
With a 8” centre bit, two
holes, 1” from centre to cen-
tre, are bored nearly through
the wood, and one hole with

Fig. 100. a 2" centre bit. The wood

QUEEN TRAVELLING BOX. between the holes is cut
away, as shown; and, for

ventilation, three or four holes in each side are bored with a
fine bradawl. The food, consisting of honey and fine, icing
: sugar, as a tough dough, goes into the

small hole, and the queen and her at-
tendants occupy the remainder of the
space. A piece of broken section,
{| 3" x 1", makes a lid. The box is
wrapped in flannel, and brown paper

SRE SEE (ventilation being provided for), has a
Fig. 109b. tie-on label, and is dropped into the

QUKEN CAGE. post like an ordinary letter. More
elaborate travelling boxes are made to serve as introducing
cages also, so that the box can be introduced at once to the
hive, and the queen be liberated in due course. (Fig. 1oob.)

OWS:

MARKETING HONEY, 189

CHAPTER XXVI.

MARKETING HONEY.

301. Home Honey.—Home honey, as to its quality, can hold
its own with any produced elsewhere; and we bee-keepers,
close as we are to the best market in the world, should find
little difficulty in disposing of our produce to advantage. But,
while the English market is largely supplied by British pro-
ducers, the colonies and foreign countries import at prices so
moderate that the Customs Returns certify the imports of
honey, into the United Kingdom, at from £30,000 to £40,000
per annum. To compete successfully in such a market, it is
necessary, not only that the quality of the article be excellent,
but also that the manner of presenting it for sale should place
it on a level with, if not superior to, that of any other honey
offered to the public. As to the quality; that may be left to
the bees, and to the flowers of our unrivalled hills and valleys.
As to the presentation of the article; that is a matter to which
insufficient attention has hitherto been given, and which must
be more carefully attended to in the future, if our honey is
to attain to that position in the markets to which its quality
entitles it. To the bee-keeper it is no less important than the
harvesting of a large quantity of honey, that the honey should
be so presented to the buyer, in the best possible condition as
to quality and “make up,” that the customer may desire more,
and be willing to pay a fair price for it.

302. Storing Honey.—Sections, when removed from the hive,
should be stored, preferably in close tin boxes, and in a dry,
warm place, safe from dust, flies, mice, etc. If left in a cold,
damp place, the distinctive flavour and aroma due to the essen-
tial oils of the flowers will be sacrificed, and the honey, a super-
saturated liquid, will absorb moisture from the atmosphere;
will become thin; will increase in bulk; and will exude through
the cappings in minute drops: from which we have the too
familiar “ weeping section,” with its whiteness and beauty gone,
and its value also gone to no small extent. Or, cold may cause
the honey to crystallize in the cells, which spoils it for the
market, and causes many a large buyer to say, “I never pur-
chase seclions after September.” Extracted honey, stored in

170 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

a cold place, will granulate. It keeps best in bulk, and should
be so stored until it is required for marketing (400).

303. Preparing Comb Honey for Market.—Before despatch-
ing comb honey to the market, the whole stock should be gone
over carefully, and graded into first, second, and third classes.
This is a detail which should never be neglected, because, a few
indifferent sections in an otherwise prime lot may pull down
the price of the whole consignment to second, or third quality
rates, thus imposing a serious loss upon the producer. First
quality sections, to secure the highest price, should be of full
weight, turning the scale at 16 oz.; they should be free from
“pop holes,” well filled and sealed, uniform, clean and attrac-
tive. Second quality sections should weigh, at least, 15 0z.;
they should be joined to the wood on all four sides, and be
fully sealed, except at the edges. Third quality sections will
include all that are inferior to second quality, and that are
suitable for sale. The wood should be scraped thoroughly
clean; but, the comb being exceedingly delicate, there must be
no undue pressure upon the flat surfaces of the wood, lest any
of the cells attached to the section be crushed, however slightly,
and a leakage occur. A slight accident of that nature may
sometimes be repaired with a little piece of clean, white wax
spread upon the breakage with the flat of a warm knife. If
the sections are to be sold unglazed, each section should be
wrapped in wax paper, the fold being made on the top of the
section, the ends being turned in securely, and the package
being tied with thin cord. Thus prepared, should a leakage
occur in any one section, the other sections will be preserved
from soiling. (See also 397-398.)

304. Glazing Sections.—Sec-
tions that are glazed (Fig. 101),
and neatly finished with em-
bossed, lace, or plain paper,
present an exceedingly attractive
appearance, and, being. safe
from flies and dust, are pre-
ferred by many retailers, who
are generally willing to pay an
increased price for them. The
slips of paper should be exactly
17” long, and 23” wide. The
glass should measure exactly 41"
x 44”, and should be cut without

Fig. 101. irregular corners. Photo-
GLAZED SECTION. graphers often have quantities of
useless negatives, which can be

MARKETING HONEY, 171

purchased cheaply, and cut to the correct size. Give the paper
a coat of good paste: sct the section, top side up, upon it,
exactly in the middle from side to side, and projecting about
3” beyond one end of the slip.
Place a square of glass
against each side; and turn all
over on the slip, pressing the
edges of the paper on the
glass as each side is turned,
and fastening the corners
neatly with a little paste. The
fold will be on the bottom;
and a neat label describing
the contents, and with the
producer’s name and address,
may be pasted on the top (306).
The glass should be polished
clean, and the section should

Fig. 102. :
GLAZED SECTION BOX. then be wrapped in paper.
Glazed boxes for sections are
much used (Fig. 102). They are inexpensive, entail little

or no trouble, and are convenient packages on a merchant’s
counter. (See also 398, p. 213.)

305. Packing Sections for Transport.—Honey-comb sent per
post or rail, requires carcful packing to avoid breakage en route.
The travelling crate
illustrated (Fig. 103)
takes one dozen sec-
tions, and has an ar-
rangement of light
springs underneath, to
minimise jolting of the
contents, while the
glass sides disclose the
fragile nature of the
goods within, and ap-
peal to the compassion
of railway porters and
other transport agents
The Home-made Tra-
velling Crate (Fig. 14)
consists of two squares

Fig. 103.
e of wood, 5%” x 5%” x
TRAVE i » 53" x 53
ELLING CRATE Reet yoe piecect ol

plaster lath, 14” x 1” x 3", The laths are tacked on three sides
of the squares; two pieces of corrugated card-board, 53” x 53",
are slipped in at each end; and the crate is well lined with
straw. Six sections, carefully wrapped in wax paper, are in-

172

THE PRACTICAL

BEE GUIDE.

serted ; straw is laid on top; and the remaining laths are tacked

on.

may be sent per post with confidence.

Fig. 104.
HOME-MADE TRAVELLING ORATE.

Tig. 105.
PARCEL POST BOX

If this crate be corded, and a tic-on label attached, it

The cost of such a
crate is trivial. Parcel Post
Boxes (fig. 105) for sections
and bottles, or jars of honey,
are made of strong corrugated
card-board and also of leather
board. The lids are printed
for addresses, and stamp tags
are attached. When larger
quantities are being dealt
with, it is advisable to pack
each dozen sections in a
separate box made to hold the
sections close enough to pre-
vent their moving. When filled,
the box should be tied with
stout cord. These boxes
should travel in a strong case,
and the packing should be
composed, not of hay, but of
straw. Put a layer of two or
three inches of straw on the
bottom of the case: on this
set some of the boxes, side ky
side, and with a couple of
inches of straw packing be-
tween them and the case on
all four sides: on top of the
boxes put another layer of two
inches of straw: set on more
boxes: pack all round: cover
with two or three inches of
straw: add, on top, a note
specifying the nature and
quantity of the contents:
screw on the lid: tie with
strong rope: and, on the lid,
affix a large card with the

following, in distinct characters :—

This Side Up. Fragile.

For—_——_- From

Honey Comb. With Care.

Date——___

MARKETING HONEY, 173

306. Preparing and Packing Extracted Honey for Market.—
Jars, for marketing extracted, or run honey, are made in various
sizes from 2 oz. to 2 lbs. and upwards (fig. 106). The size
most commonly used holds one pound. Glass is preferred
generally by the public. The jars are either corked, or
covered with a tie over piece of vegetable parchment, or are
fitted with a metal screw cap, in which is a cork wad to prevent
the escape of honey. If the honey is to be bottled, the vessel in
which it has been stored should first be put standing in hot
water. This causes the bubbles to rise to the surface, and helps
to keep the honey from granulating afterwards. Should the
honey have already become solid in the tin, the latter should be
put standing for some time in hot water near the fire, until

Fig. 106.
HONEY JARS.

the contents become liquid. But the honey must not be raised
beyond 160°F ahr., or its flavour will be spoiled; 144°Fahr. will
be sufficient, and, as that is the point at which beeswax melts
(62), if a small piece of wax be put into the honey it will indi-
cate when the vessel should be drawn back from the fire. The
most secure fastening for bottles is, undoubtedly, a driven-in
cork that has first been dipped in melted wax, and that, after
having been driven in, is dipped in a mixture of beeswax
and resin. The “tie-over,” and the “screw cap” bottles are,
however, generally preferred by the public. With these, a
piece of waxed paper should be put on before the parchment
or screw cap; and it will be an improvement to dip the cork of
the screw cap in melted wax. The bottles should be perfectly
clean, and an attractive lapel should be pasted on, as advised
avove (304). There is a great deal more in the label, and
general “ get-up” of the article than many bee-men suppose.
The label illustrated (Fig. 107) may be procured from Mr.
E. H. Taylor; is suitable for both bottles and sections; and

174 THE PRACLICAL BEE GUIDE.

PURE. =

[IRISH HONE

hig. i107.
HONEY LABEL.

is printed in four colours. It
is supplicd for “English,”
“Scotch,” “ Welsh,” “ Irish,” and
“Heather” Honey, as required.
The name and address of the
producer, or of the society mar-
keting the honey, can be printed
on the label, so that the pur-
chaser, or his friends, if pleased
with the article, may have no
difficulty in repeating orders.
Thus, the label serves as, not
only an ornament, but also a
useful advertisement. As dealers
frequently object to granulated
honey, supposing it to be neces-
sarily impure, it is wise to add
a notice to the following effect:

“NOTICE — Honey that is pure
will candy, becoming hard or crys-
tallised, when stored in a cold

place. Iecp this warm. If it candies, remove the lid, and set
the jar in hot water until the contents liquefy.”

Travelling Boxes, for Honey Jars, are made to hold twelve
jars in separate compartments, each compartment and the

Fig. 108.
TRAVELLING BOX POR HONEY JARS. the ends by screws.

top and bottom being
lined with = corru-
gated cardboard (Fig.
108). When larger
quantities are being
dealt with, the
bottles should be
papered, and packed
in a strong box, with
a liberal allowance of
straw. Tins for Run
Honey in bulk are
made to hold from
1 lb. upwards. They
are fitted with lever-
top lids. Those to
hold 30 Ilbs., and
over, are usually en-
closed in crates
which protect the
tins from breakage,
and are fastened at

ROBBING AND FIGHTING. 175

CHAPTER XXVII.
ROBBING AND FICHTING.

307. Robbing.—It must be admitted that bees, notwithstand-
ing their many excellent qualities, sometimes become very cap-
able and persistent robbers, and that, when once this sordid
vice has taken hold of them, it is exceedingly difficult to induce
them to shake it off. In spring and autumn, when nectar is
scarce out of doors, a careless bee-man may turn all his virtu-
ous pets into thieving rascals, by dropping honey or syrup
anywhere near the hives, or by unduly exposing it during
manipulations. Then, the strong stocks destroy the weak
stocks, carry off their stores, and leave them to perish of
hunger. Sometimes the robbed colony, when further resist-
ance becomes hopeless, join the robbers; and, having helped
to empty their own combs, sally forth to do unto others as
they, themselves, have been done by; and, the owner, paying
a belated visit to his colonies, is surprised to find one or more
hives empty of bees and honey (215), and, upon the ground,
in front, the carcases of the slain. Even when no sweets have
been carelessly exposed about the apiary, weak stocks, acting
as a temptation to the strong, encourage robbing, and often
fall victims to it. They will, indeed, maintain a strenuous
resistance against the aggressors for a time (12); but this is
a case in which there is safety only in numbers, and a weak
colony, in such circumstances, if left without assistance, must
eventually submit to defeat.

308. Precautions against Robbing.—Obvicusly the precau-
tions necessary to prevent robbing are:—To avoid exposing
sweets when nectar 1s scarce in the fields: to do all feeding in
the evenings, when bees have ceased flying: and to keep all
stocks strong, by uniting the weak, and by helping the
well-to-do.

309. Signs of Robbing.—The signs which denote that
robbing is in progress are unmistakeable. Wild excitement
manifests itself about the entrance of the hive attacked:
robbers hunt about the hive corners, and at all openings,
seeking an entrance where there are no guards: returning
bees hurry in-doors, as if in haste to escape the turmoil with-

176 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

out; a loud buzzing is kept up without intermission: and,
on the alighting board an angry fight is carried on between
the robbers and the defenders of the hive; bees will be seen
struggling together and rolling in couples to the ground, where
one or both of them will show signs of having been injured,
and where, if the fight has been fast and furious, many dead
will have already fallen.

310. Treatment.—When robbing has commenced, it must be
dealt with at once, or the whole apiary may be thrown into
confusion. The first thing to do is to close, to one bee-space,
the entrance of the hive that is being attacked; thus giving
the defenders an advantage by making the enemy advance in
single file. If the attack continues, one or more of the follow-
ing remedies should be applied:—Place a handful of wet hay
at the entrance, so that, while the bees of the hive will force
their way through, the process may be too slow for robbers.
Arrange on the alighting board two pieces of 1” wood,
half an inch apart, and with a lath, or slate on top; so
that, to come and go, bees must pass through a dark passage,
which is very discouraging to robbers. Saturate a cloth with
carbolic solution (Recipe 362), and spread it on the alighting
board right up to the entrance, sprinkling it afresb as
required. Add a little carbolic to a large pail of water, and,
with a syringe or a watering pot, drench the robbers as they
fly in front of the hive. Set up a piece of glass an inch from
the entrance, and sloping from the alighting board to the hive
front, so that the difficulty to stranger bees of finding an
entrance, may be increased. If none of the remedies
described proves effectual, close the hive entirely until the
evening, opening the doors to full width, covering the entrance
with perforated zinc, and taking care to give all the ventilation
required (218). It may even become necessary to remove the
molested hive from the apiary altogether until the danger is
over. When the robbing is being carried on by the bees of
only one hive, some apiarists deal with it by flouring the bees
as they leave the attacked hive, thus discovering the colony
from which the robbers come; after which they transfer the
hive of the robbers to the stand of the robbed, and vice versa,
until the mischief ceases.

“In Germany, when colonies in common hives are being robbed,
they are often removed to a distant location, or put in a dark cellar.
A hive, similar in appearance, is placed on their stand, and leaves
of wormwood and the expressed juice of the plant are put on the
bottom board. Bees have such an antipathy to the odour of this
plant, that the robbers speedily forsake the place, and the assailed
colony may then be brought back. The Rev. Mr. Klein says, that

ROBBING AND FIGHTING, 177

robbers may be repelled by imparting to the hive some intensely
powerful and unaccustomed odour. He effects this the most readily
by placing in it, in the evening, a small portion of musk, and on
the following morning the bees, if they have a healthy queen, will
boldly meet their assailants. These are non-plussed by the unwonted
odour, and, if any of them enter the hive and carry off some of
the coveted booty, on their return home, having a strange smell,
they will be killed by their own household. The robbing is thus
soon brought to a close.’—S. WAGNER.

It will often be found that a colony which offers little resist-
ance to robbers, and is overpowered, is either queenless or
diseased; and that bees that are being robbed are more
than usually difficult to hardle. (179).

178 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE,

CHAPTER XXVIII.
FEEDING BEES: RECIPES.

311. Objects of Feeding Bees.—It is a common notion, and
a very mistaken one, that bees, being so well able to forage
for themselves, require no artificial feeding. During
several months of the year there is little or no nectar to be
gathered in the fields: sometimes when natural food might be
had in abundance, stress of weather confines the bees to their
hives, so that they cannot visit the flowers: in winter and
early spring, foraging is impossible: and, frequently, when
the bee-keeper has taken his harvest from the hives, the bees
are left without sufficient food to carry them through the
cold months. In such circumstances, neglect to supply food
artificially is often accountable for the death of many stocks.
And, by feeding bees, there are other objects to be gained
beyond that of staving off starvation. The general desire to
obtain a large harvest of honey can be satisfied only by having
the stocks as strong as possible before the honey flow
opens (255); for, only the bees that have been born at
least fourteen days, from eggs laid at least thirty-six days
before the honey flow opens, can take full advantage of it.
(190). But, it is found that neither will the queen put forth
her best laying powers, nor the bees consent to rear brood in
quantities, until food begins to come in abundantly (192).
Similarly, towards the close of autumn, it is necessary to have
a large quantity of bees reared to survive the winter, and to
carry on the work of the colony in the spring. But, with the
cessation of the honey flow, breeding will naturally decrease,
unless food be supplied; and, even the eggs and larve will be
destroyed when food becomes scarce, with the result that the
stock may come out in the spring too weak to be of any prac-
tical use in the season following. Therefore, if good results
are to be secured, nature’s supply must be anticipated, and
supplemented, by artificial feeding: wise and timely atten-
tion to this detail may make all the difference between a good
and a bad, or indifferent honey harvest (202). It goes without
saying that sugar is not as good feeding for bees as is honey.
Experienced bee-keepers are careful not to deprive their stocks
of more honey than the bees can afford to give, having regard
to the needs of the colonies.

FEEDING BEES: RECIPES, 179

312. Precautions.—The following precautions, as applicable
to the feeding of bees, should be adopted as rules for invari-
able observance :—(1) Use only pure, refined, cane sugar:
other sugars are injurious to bees (330). (2) Never permit
the sugar to become burned during cooking: even pure, re-
fined, cane sugar, if burned, will do much harm, especially
in cold weather when bees are confined to their hives.
(3) Contract the entrances of all hives in which feeders are
being used, and do not allow robber bees access to the food:
robbing is often set up through neglect of this precaution
(307). (4) Give the food warm, in the evenings, when the bees
have ceased flying: bees will frequently refuse cold syrup in
spring and autumn. (5) Keep all feeders warmly covered.
(6) Never leave supers on a hive when sugar-feeding is in
progress in that hive: syrup stored in sections or extracting
supers, will render the honey therein unfit for sale. (7) Do
not hesitate to spend money on sugar: it is only quarter the
price of the honey you get instead.

313. Spring Feeding.—Bees are fed in spring, and at other
seasons, to “stimulate ” them (192), and at all times when it is
found that their stores are insufficient. Except in winter,
when candy is the food employed, syrup is given. Spring
«feeding begins when the bees begin to fly freely—in March or
April, according to the season and locality. Honey in the
combs may have a couple of inches of cappings bruised once a
week, exposing the food for use. In early spring, when the
nights are cold, bees will often refuse to take down syrup.
In such a case, if there be any liquid honey at hand, a good
cake of candy may be made by mixing honey with loaf sugar
pounded fine, and the cake may be put on the frames, under
the sheet, so that the bees may easily reach it. Flour candy
(Recipe 324) forms an excellent food for bees in spring, and
stimulates brood rearing to a surprising extent. Liquid
food may be prepared according to the directions given at
the close of this chapter (Recipe 321). The supply should
be regulated according to the season, the needs of the colony,
and the objects in view. In spring, for stimulative purposes,
i.€., to induce more rapid brood rearing, the supply should
be very gradual—say a _ wineglassful given’ through
two or three holes only, and that, during the night,
the supply being cut off in the morning; for, a supply too
rapid will lead to the storing of syrup in the combs required
for brood, and this is to be carefully avoided in the spring.
With this object, feeders are employed which introduce the
syrup immediately over the cluster, and which permit the
supply to be regulated according to the requirements (120-123).

180 THE PRACTICAL BEE GULDE.

Artificial pollen should also be given where a natural supply
is wanting. (192).

314. Summer Feeding.—lecding in summer becomes necces-
sary during a spell of bad weather, and is often desirable
between the early honey flow from fruit trees and the main
flow from clover, and also between the latter and the heather
flow. Swarms should be fed for a few nights to the extent
of half a pint of honey or syrup per night, to assist them in
drawing out foundation into comb, and to prevent the danger
of hunger, resulting in the cessation of breeding, the throwing
out of immature brood, and the dwindling of the swarm. But,
swarms to which have been transferred the supers from the
parent stocks (240) do not generally require feeding, and should
not be fed, while the supers are on, except with honey (312).
When the honey flow ceases and supers have been removed
(272), liquid food may be given again, and this may be con-
tinued, to the extent of about half a tumblerful per night, until
the middle of September. As a result, breeding will be con-
tinued uninterruptedly, and a large supply of young bees will
be reared to maintain the colony in the winter, and to begin
work in the spring (202). Syrup for summer feeding is made
similar to that used in spring (Recipe $21). In very bad
seasons, when the bees cannot procure natural pollen, flour
candy will greatly assist breeding in the hive (Recipe 324).

315. Autumn Feeding.—Autumn feeding begins in the
middle of September, and is intended to supply sufficient food
to carry the stocks through the winter and early spring, if there
is not an adequate quantity of honey in their combs. It should
be given warm, every evening, and as rapidly as the bees
can be induced to take it down, so that it may be stored and
sealed in the combs before cold weather arriving renders the
capping of the cells impossible (377). Unsealed stores are
hable to ferment, and such food is highly injurious to bees
(330). The syrup should be thicker than that used earlier in
the year, and may be made according to the directions given
later on (Recipe 322). A colony, to winter safely, should have,
at least, 30lbs. of sealed stores. Five standard frames (97),
well filled, will suffice, and no strong colony should be con-
sidered safe with less. A Dutchman, when asked—* How
much beer is enough fora man?” is said to have replied—* Too
mush peer is shust enough.” More accurately it may be said
that too much food is just enough for bees in winter. As the
object of autumn feeding is, not to encourage breeding, but
to rapidly supply stores for winter, the feeders used in spring
and summer are not invariably suitable in autumn. (123-125).
In an emergency, when there is not time for supplying autumn

FEEDING BEES: RECIPES. 181

syrup through a feeder, empty combs may be carried into the
house, and the warm syrup may be poured direct into the
cells, until both sides of the combs are filled. Tne combs may
then be carried out in a comb box (173), and inserted in the
hives requiring them. But this method, also, must be adopted,
if at all, sufficiently early to admit of the capping of the cells
before the arrival of cold weather. It is an excellent plan to
use one or more stocks to store and seal the syrup for all the
other stocks, as previously advised. (124).

316. Winter Feeding.—When stocks are short of food in the
winter, only sealed honey, or candy can be given with safety.

‘‘Experience shows that stocks, no matter how well supplied with
food below, winter better when they have a cake of candy on top
of the frames. The bees use the candy first; and, when they have
consumed a little of it, they have a safe winter passage across the
frames. Every bee-keeper who is not quite certain that his stocks
are sufficiently supplied, should give them ‘the benefit of the doubt,’
in the shape of a cake of candy—candy not hard enough to require a
pickaxe to break it, but candy that is properly made, soft, and
palatable, and good. (It may be made according to Recipe 323),
Let it cool for half-an-hour. Then, gently slip a cake under the
sheet of each hive, so that the candy shall be directly over the
clustering bees. Renew the supply of candy as required. Pressure
of the fingers on the sheet will show when the candy has been used.
A neater plan for supplying the candy, and one that will repay the
little extra trouble, where only a few hives have to be dealt with,
may be adopted as follows. Procure for each hive a small, shallow box
of wood, or cardboard; remove the lid and cut, in the bottom, a hole
to correspond with the hole in the sheet that is on the frames. Put
a piece of newspaper over the hole in the bottom of the box, and
fill up with candy. Now, set an empty section crate on the sheet
that covers the frames; pull the paper off the candy; and set the
box on the sheet, so that the bees shall have access to the candy
right over the cluster. Place a piece of glass on the box. Fill up
the crate with warm stuff, such as tailors’ cuttings, cork dust, or
chaff; pack all round it with cloth or newspaper; and set the usual
quilts on top. Thus, there will be no escape of heat; the candy will
be in the warmest part of the hive; and the glass will enable you
to see when a further supply of food becomes necessary.’”’—J. G. D. in
the Zrish Bee Journal.

317. Feeding for Comb Building.—it has already been
pointed out that careful bee-keepers make it a rule to have
empty combs always at hand when required (193). There are
certain weeks, in every year, when bees are comparatively idle,
during a cessation of nectar-secretion in the flowers: the op-
portunity may then be taken advantage of to procure new
combs for future use. If frames of foundation be inserted
alternately with the brood combs, and if thin syrup (Recipe

182 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUID.

321) be given, the bees will fill the frames with comb in an
incredibly short time. Care must be taken to withdraw the
new combs before the queen shall have begun to oviposit
there: or, failing this, they may be left in their position for
brood rearing, and a corresponding number of broodless
combs, if any are there, may be withdrawn and packed up in a
dry place until required. Such combs will be of immense
service if given to swarms, and will, in other cases also, effect
a saving of valuable time in the height of the season.

318. Feeding Bees in Skeps.—Stocks in skeps may be con-
sidered safe for winter if the skep, on being weighed, is found
to exceed 25 lbs. When syrup feeding in skeps is necessary,
it should be given overhead. An ordinary skep may have a
hole cut in the top sufficiently large to admit the mouth of an
Economic, or a Bottle Feeder (120-121). When the feeder is
placed in position, it should be wrapped round with warm
material, to prevent the escape of heat, and a cover, such as an
empty skep, or a large flower pot with the hole stopped, should
be put on, to shut out prowling, stranger bees. In autumn or
winter, a bar of candy may be pushed into the hole, and covered
up. A better plan is to cut two or three inches off the top of the
skep, and to put on, instead, a piece of board with a hole in the
centre, over which a bottle and stage feeder (121-122), or a
cake of candy may be placed. The board should be fastened
securely by nails passing through it into the skep, and a safe
cover should be put on over the feeder. Flat-topped skeps
(271), made to take supers, can have feeders placed on them
in the same manner as described above for modern hives.

319. Water.—Bees cannot carry on their wonderful work
without water (9). If they have not access to natural sources
close enough to their hives, water should be supplied to them.
It is neither necessary nor desirable to add salt. A vessel of
water, with corks floating in it on which the bees may alight:
a tumbler of water inverted on a plate: or, a bowl of water
with a sponge, or a piece of cotton wool in it, through which
the bees may suck up what they require, will serve the purpose.
The vessel should be placed in a sheltered, sunny spot. Bees
will often resort to dirty pools of stagnant water, rather than
take clean, but colder water from an artificial source. (Fig. 113.)

320. Pollen.—The necessity for supplying artificial pollen
when a natural supply is not available, has been referred to
elsewhere, and directions for supplying it have been given
under the heading—“ Stimulating in Spring.” (192).

FEEDING BEES: RECIPES. 183

RECIPES FOR FEEDING.

Pure, refined, cane sugar only, to be used as
follows :—

321. Spring and Summer Syrup (160, 313, 314, 317).--

I part hot water, by weight, to 1 part sugar, by weight,
thus :—

Water a 1 pint

1 quart
Sugar Fea 1; lbs.

22 Ibs.

2 quarts 4 quarts 12 quarts
5 lbs. 10 lbs. 30 lbs.

Stir incessantly over a slow fire until the sugar is dissolved.
If foul brood be feared, add Naphthol Beta Solution (325) to
the above quantities, while the syrup is hot, as follows :—

1 Dessert- 1 Table- 3 Table-

N. Beta... } Teaspoon.| 1 Tea- spoonful spoonful | spoonfuls
ful spoouful or or or

} fluid oz. 3 fluid oz. | 14 fluid oz.

(For measures—see par. 326.)
322. Autumn Syrup (315).—

I part hot water, by weight, to 2 parts sugar, by weight,
thus :—

Water ne 1 pint | 1 quart 2 quarts 4 quarts 12 quarts
Sugar id 23 Ibs. 5 lbs. 10 lbs. 20 lbs. 60 lbs.
Vinegar ...1 Dessert- | 1 Table- | 2 Table- | 1 Wineglass- | 3 Wineglass-
spoonful spoonful | spoonfuls ful fuls
or or or or or
2 fluid oz. | 2 fluid oz. | 1 fluidoz. | 2 fluid oz. 6 fluid oz.

Stir incessantly over a slow fire until the sugar is dissolved,
and allow the syrup to boil. If foul brood be feared, add
Naphthol Beta Solution (325) to the above quantities, while
the syrup is hot, as follows :—

1Dcssert- | 1 Table- 2 Table- 1} Wineglass
N. Beta... 1 Teaspoon- | spoonful | spoonful spoonfuls fuls
ful or or or or
3 fluid oz. | 4 fluid oz. | 1 fluid oz. | 3 fluid oz.

(The Vinegar is added to prevent, or retard, crystallization.)
(For measures—see par. 826.)

184 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

323. Candy for Winter Food (316).—

1 part hot water, by weight, to 5 parts sugar, by weight,
thus :—

Water ite 4 pint 1 pint 1 quart 2 quarts 5 quarts
Sugar ae 3 lbs. 6 Ibs. 12 lbs. 24 Ibs. 60 lbs.
Creain of Tartar } ‘Tea- 1 Tea- 2 Tea- 1 'Table- 21 Table-
spoou- | spoonful spoon- spoonful spoonfuls or
ful fuls or 13 04,
or 4 0z, oz. i

Boil the water, withdraw it from the fire, add the requisite
quantities of sugar and acid, as above, stirring until dissolved.
Return it to the fire and stir it unceasingly until it boils, for if
you allow the sugar to burn, through lack of stirring, it will be
as poison to the bees (312), and your ingredients, time, and
perhaps patience, will be lost. Continue boiling and stirring
until the mixture begins to thicken; then test it by dropping
a little on a cold plate. It must set soft, but not sticky; if it
sticks to your fingers, boil it a little longer. When it proves
right to the touch, cease boiling it, and if foul brood be feared,
add Naphthol Beta Solution in quantity as directed below.
Without delay, stand the vessel in another containing cold
water, and stir vigorously until the mixture begins to set,
when you must immediately pour it into receptacles previously
prepared for the purpose; for the mixture will set quickly, and
must be dealt with promptly. The receptacles may be saucers,
or soup plates, on each of which a sheet of strong paper must
be laid to receive the candy; or shallow boxes may be used
(316). If paper be adopted, it will be well to lay upon each
cake two pieces of #" stick, 1” apart, and parallel, pressing
them into the candy before it cools, and flush with its upper
surface, so that when the candy shall have been consumed, the
“winter passage” (377) may be preserved by the sticks
lying across the frames. If preferred, frames may be prepared
with four or five lengths of stout string, after the manner of
Wires in frames (262), but running vertically, and into these
frames, lying on waxed or slightly greased paper, the mixture
may be poured. When the candy is cool, a cake may be given
under the sheet and quilts, or a frame of candy—the paper
having been removed—may be inserted next the brood nest, in
any hive requiring it. To medicate with Naphthol Beta (325),
stir in the solution, while the mixture is still at boiling point,
allowing to 3lbs. sugar, 14 teaspoonfuls N. B. Solution; to
lbs. sugar, 25 teaspoonfuls; to 12lbs. sugar, 5 teaspoonfuls;
and to other weights of sugar in like proportions, 4

FEEDING BEES: RECIPES. 1843

323b. Brother Columban’s recipe, when carefully followed,
gives excellent results, thus:—15lbs. cane sugar (white crys-
tals) and 3 quarts hot water, in an enamelled saucepan or
preserving pan—capable of holding twice the quantity, stirred
over a strong fire until dissolved. When it begins to boil, draw
the vessel to one side, and during slow boiling, skim off all
impurities, after which let it boil as fast as possible, without
stirring, for about 20 minutes. Test it, as directed above; if
it breaks when tested, instead of rolling into a soft ball, it has
been overboiled, in which case a little water must be added and
boiling must continue up to the right point. When sufficiently
boiled, add 5lbs. of honey, and boil again for one or two
minutes, after which remove the vessel from the fire and add
2 tablespoonfuls of Naphthol Beta Solution, if required, then
pour the mixture into a large tin, which may be placed in a
larger vessel of cold water. Stirring must not begin until the
mixture has cooled so as to admit of the insertion of one’s
finger for half a minute without scalding, then stirring must
continue until the candy becomes white and hard. Now put
it into a vessel standing over another vessel of hot water, and
when the candy melts to the consistency of cream, pour it into
suitable moulds.

324. Flour Candy for Spring Food (192, 313, 314, 377).—

Ingredients and quantities as for Candy (328).

Make as directed above (323), and when sufficiently boiled,
add for each 1lb. of sugar a 3lb., or a handful, of flour, or,
better still, of pea flour, stirring, medicating (if desired), and
cooling as before (328). This candy may be given to the bees
by any of the methods recommended (316, 323).

325. Naphthol Beta Solution.—Naphthol Beta, for medicating
bee focd, as a preventive of foul brood (352), may be made
into solution as follows:

Naphthol Beta aa ee bss 1 oz.
Pure Methylated Spirit ey ee 6 oz.

Use only pure Methylated Spirit, and dissolve the Naphthol
Beta thoroughly. A simple method for measuring the solu-
tion and its ingredients may be mentioned here. Paste a slip
of paper on the bottle from the bottom to the neck; measure
carefully a quarter fluid ounce, or a half fluid ounce, of water
into the bottle, and mark its height on the slip with a pen;
add a similar quantity, mark the slip, and proceed until quan-
tities up to 7-0z. have been recorded on the slip; then empty
the bottle and pour in the solution.

M

184c THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

326. Measures.—

4 Tea-spoonful 4 Drachm, or 30 Drops.

1 Tea-spoonful =, 5, 4th Fluid oz,
1 Dessert-spoonful =2 .,, » + ‘toe en
1 Table-spoonful a ae ao ry
2 Table-spoonfuls =8 , tle delice 13
1 Wineglass =16 =, Sas aes
1 Tumbler == } pint 5, 10 es
2 Tumblers =1,, a 20%, As5n9 Gas

[Note —The above figures are approximate only, the vessels named
varying in size. A graduated glass measure may be purchased fora couple
of pence.]

APOTHECARIES’ WEIGHT,
20 Grains = 1 Scruple.
3 Seruples == 1 Drachm,
8 Drachms = 1 Ounce.

DISEASES, &e. 185

CHAPTER XXIX.
DISEASES, &c.

327. Diseases, &¢.—Bees are subject to various diseases
and ailments, among which may be included—Dysentery ;
Paralysis; Chilled Brood; Black Brood; Pickled Brood; Foul
Brood, or Bee Pest, and a new disorder, commonly called “ Isle
of Wight Disease” (360). In the treatminent of these, modern
bee-keeping enjoys a distinct advantage as against the old-
fashioned methods (77); for, whereas the skeppist, being un-
able to make thorough examinations of his stocks, could but
seldom discover an unhealthy condition before the disease had
made considerable progress, the moveable-comb hive enables
the bee-keepcer to discern the first approaches of danger (81),
and, by the use of preventives and remedies, to restrain dis-
ease, or to cure it in its initial stages. With this object in
view, it is important that, when stocks are being manipulated,
a sharp look-out be kept for any signs of disease; that preven-
tives and remedies be always at hand when required; and that,
when sickness of any kind shows itself, immediate steps be
taken to deal with it.

328. Dysentery.— When bees are suffering from dysentery,
the ailment will show itself at the close of winter, or early in
spring.

329. Symproms.—On examining the stock affected, it will
be seen that the bees have discharged their excrements over
the combs, and on the sides, floor, and alighting board of the
hive, as they never do in a healthy state, being scrupulously
clean in all their habits. (11). The feces have a very offensive
smell, and vary in colour from a red-brown to a mud-black,
according to the nature of the food that has been used. The
bees move about languidly, and the colony rapidly dwindles.

330. Caus—E.—When bees have been long confined to their
hives, and unable to take a cleansing flight: when they have,
from any cause (378), such as untimely manipulations, con-
sumed an excessive quantity of food: or, when their food has
consisted, to any considerable extent, of sour, or unripened
honey (315), or of syrup made with unsuitable sugar (312), they
become subject to dysentery ; and, being unable to retain the
excrements, they void them anywhere (377).

186 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

331. PrRevENTION.—To guard against this complaint, late
manipulations, causing undue excitement and consumption of
food, and late feeding with syrup, when evaporation and seal-
ing of the food are impossible, should be avoided: none but
pure, refined cane sugar should be used for syrup and candy
feeding.

332. TREATMENT.—When an attack of dysentery has set in,
the bees should be transferred to a clean hive, contracted to
the space occupied by the cluster; very soiled combs should be
removed and washed clean, and their places should be occupied
by clean combs; candy, or sealed honey should be given; and,
the bees should be kept warm, and as free as possible from
excitement. A few warm days generally put matters right.

333. Paralysis.—Bee paralysis is a disease which exists to
some extent in this country, although it is not often reported.
A peculiarity of the disease is, that it comes and goes in an
unaccountable manner, suddenly attacking a strong colony, and
reducing it to the condition of a nucleus, and sometimes dis-
appearing as suddenly, leaving no apparent trace behind, save
the depleted state of the stock.

334. Symptoms.—tIn the early stages, the affected bees will
be seen leaving the hive, their abdomens greatly swollen.
Later on, the trembling, or shaking paralysis shows itself.
The healthy bees seize the unhealthy, and drag them from the
hive; no resistance is offered, and, in an incredibly short time,
the stock will become small and weak, and will, if the disease
continue, be wiped out. (360).

335. TREATMENT.—Among the remedies prescribed are (1)
requeening ; but, in pronounced cases, a change of queens has
little effect: (2) transferring the stock to the stand of a strong,
healthy stock, and vice versa; thus providing a force of strong,
healthy bees to remove the diseased and infectious bees to a
distance: and, (3) dusting with sulphur, which is said to show
good results when thoroughly done. This method is, to remove
all combs containing brood or eggs, giving them to another
colony; and, in the same evening, when all the bees are at
home, to dust every comb and every bee in the hive with
sulphur. On the next day, the combs previously removed are
returned to the hive; the reason for their removal in the first
instance being, that dusting them with sulphur would kill all
the unsealed larvz, and would also kill all larve hatched in
them subsequently. If the combs that have been treated be
given to strong colonies, the bees will clean out the cells, and
no mischief will result. No evidence of a cure will show itself
before a week or ten days have elapsed; therefore, the treat-
ment is not to be considered a failure when good results are
not immediately visible.

DISEASES, &e, 137

336. Chilled Brood.—“ Chilled Brood” is the name given to
the condition of larve which have died through lack of the heat
necessary to their life and development. It is frequently found
after any sudden decrease of temperature out of doors, and in
the apiaries of careless, or ill-informed bee-keepers.

337. Symptroms.—Chilled brood is sometimes mistaken for
foul brood (349), but, examination of the contents of affected
cells will show the larve, in the case of chilled brood, grey i»
the initial stages, and subsequently black, whereas brown is
the colour assumed by foul brood (350).

338. Causge.—Chilled brood may be caused in spring, when
the brood nest has been extended, by a sudden return of cold
weather forcing the bees to cluster in the centre of the brood
nest, and to leave the outer patches of brood uncovered: it may
result from premature or excessive “spreading of the brood”
(193): or from undue exposure of the brood combs during
manipulations. (185b),

339. PREVENTION.—To avoid the danger of chilled brood,
hives should be kept warm during spring and late autumn
breeding: spreading the brood should be practised with much
discretion, full account being taken of the prevailing weather
and of the risk of a sudden drop in the temperature at night:
manipulations of the brood nest on cold days should be
avoided as much as possible: and, at no time should combs
containing brood be exposed to chill winds.

340. TREATMENT.—When time permits, the chilled brood may
be picked out of the cells with a pin, and be buried. Failing
this, and where a large number of stocks have to be dealt with,
the cappings of cells containing chilled brood may be broken,
when, the bees will carry out the dead.

341. Black Brood.—Black brood, in some parts of America,
has proved itself quite as destructive as foul brood. It is a
disease of adult bees as well as of brood, is very infectious, and
most destructive in spring and early summer (359b).

342. Symptoms.—The brood is usually attacked in the early
larval stages, and death generally occurs before the cells have
been sealed. A yellow, pin-head spot on the larva, is the first
sign, and death resulting, the larva becomes brown in colour,
and finally almost black. But, whereas the rotten masses in
foul brood become sticky, and ropy, in black brood they turn
into a granular, liquid condition, not adhering to the cell-walls,
ae ere a sour smell quite unlike that given off by foul
DTrOO

188 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

343. Causr.—Bacillus: Infected food, or infected combs
conveying the disease to the colony, and to other colonies,
through the agency of robber bees.

344, TREATMENT.—Unite weak stocks, in clean hives, and on
starters of foundation, confining the queen in a cage that will
admit of her being fed: a few days later, substitute full sheets
of foundation for the starters, keeping the queen caged for
a few days longer: feed from the outset, with medicated syrup
(Recipes 321, 322): render all infected combs and starters into
wax by the boiling method (280): and disinfect all hives and
appliances which have been in contact with the disease.
(Recipe 363).

345. Pickled Brood.—Pickled brood is not prevalent in this
country, nor is it nearly so contagious, infectious or destruc-
tive as either black brood or foul brood.

346. Symproms.—Like black brood, this disease is frequently
mistaken for foul brood; but, the symptoms are too distinct to
admit of any doubt upon the part of a careful observer. The
dead larva, generally much swollen, lies on its back, with
both ends upwards: it is first white, like healthy brood, after-
wards changing to yellow, gradually darkening until it is
nearly black: it is never sticky or ropy: and the larva being
“pickled” in its own liquids, putrefaction is arrested, and the
evil smells so characteristic of advanced black brood and foul
brood, are entirely absent.

347. CausE.—The disease, which is infectious and liable to
be carried from hive to hive by robbers, is due to a white fungus
growth starting a ferment in the alimentary canal of the larva.

348. TREATMENT.—The treatment commonly adopted is, to
transfer the bees to clean hives, with frames of foundation;
confining them to their hives for three days, so that all the
infected material may be consumed; and feeding them with
medicated syrup. (Recipes 321, 322).

349. Foul Brood.—Foul brood (Bacillus alvei) is a specific
infectious disease caused by bacteria, and, in every way, the
most serious disease to which bees in this country are subject.
It attacks adult bees as well as larvae, and is so exceedingly
virulent that, if not speedily brought under control, it destroys
colonies, devastates whole apiaries, and reaching out to un-
affected places, spreads death and destruction far and near.
When once it has taken possession of a district, the difficulty
of thoroughly eradicating it is so great, and its contagion is so
active, that entire parishes and counties may become affected

DISEASES, &o. 189

to such an extent as to render bee-keeping therein an
impossibility.

Fig. 109.
COMB INFECTED BY FOUL BROOD.

350. Symproms.—The first signs of the presence of foul
brood are manifested in the larve from the age of one to five
days. At that age, healthy larve occupy the combs in regular
patches of brood, the larve being pearly white, and lying on
their sides, curled up in shape of a crescent, at the bottoms of
the cells. When disease sets in, the larva assumes a different
position (Fig. 10ga); loses its plumpness and whiteness; and
takes an unhealthy buff, or yellow tint which, as the disease
developes into death, changes to brown. Then follows decom-
position ; the mass settles in the bottom of the cell as a rotten,
glutinous, coffee-coloured matter which frequently gives off
an intolerable stench. This stench is not invariably present;
but it is seldom entirely absent, and, in cases of full develop-
ment, it may often be detected some yards from the affected
hives; it resembles the smell given off by old, melted glue;
and, once experienced, is never forgotten. The bees do not
appear to make any attempt to carry out the foul matter when
once it has reached the point of decomposition; sometimes
they fill up the cell with honey, covering the foul matter be-
neath, and thus contaminating the food which, when supplied
to larvee, infects and kills. Finally, the putrid mass shrinks,
and clings to the lower side of the cell in the form of a stiff,
black scale. Larvz, attacked at a later period of their growth,
and sealed up in their cells, die, decompose, and turn to dry scale

199 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

in the same manner. These cells will remain closed when
adjacent cells, having given birth to healthy brood, are open;
and this, in itself, will often be sufficient to arouse the suspicion
of the owner. The cappings of such cells will be seen to be
darker than those covering healthy brood, and to be, in some
cases, indented, as if pressed with a pencil point, and
sometimes, even perforated with jagged holes (Fig. 109). If
one of those cells be opened, before the contents have reached
the scale stage, and, if a pointed stick be inserted and with-
drawn slowly, it will bring out the sticky, elastic, brown mass
which is an unmistakable indication of the existence of foul
brood. Adult bees, suffering from the disease, die off very
rapidly; and the remainder lose heart, become listless,
and loiter about their unhappy and unhealthy home; or,
fanning at the entrance, try, in vain, to remove the fetid air
which they seem to recognise is, for them, the precursor of
doom. When any of the symptoms described are noticed, an
immediate examination of the combs should be made; and, if
dead brood be found, the other symptoms should be looked
for, with a view to discovering whether the mischief present
is due to foul brood, or to either of the other diseases described
above.

351. Causz.— Bacillus alvei,” is the name given by Cheshire,
in 1883, to the rod-shaped, pathogenic micro-organism causing
foul brood. (3596).

“The bacillus alvei, which interests the bee-keeper, is of medium
size, rod-like in shape, and four times longer than it is broad; and it
would take one hundred and twenty-eight billions of them to equal a
worker bee in size. If we placed a bacillus and a bee along side of
each other, and wanted to place a body along side of the bee as much
larger than the bee, as the bee is larger than the bacillus, we should
have to place a house two hundred feet long, one hundred feet wide,
and over fifty-seven and a half feet high; and, if we wished to go
on and keep up the proportion, we should require one hundred and
twenty-eight billion houses for the next body. They grow and multiply
with wonderful rapidity. They divide by budding, or transversely
across their length every hour, and if one bacterium could keep up
this division for three days, it would convert over seven thousand tons
of organic matter into bacteria. They form, under certain conditions,
spores, or seed-like bodies which can withstand boiling water for one
or two hours.’’—A. W. Smyru M.D, in the Jrish Bee Journal.

In the early stages, bacilli only are present; but later, spores
are produced in enormous numbers—billions of them in one
dead larva, and more exceedingly minute than the dust par-
ticles visible in a sunbeam when it shines through a chink in
a closed shutter. These minute spores may be carried in the

DISEASES, &c. 191

air, on the bodies of robber bees, or on the person of the bee-
keeper, from hive to hive, or from apiary to apiary, to infect
other stocks, and to set up disease in hitherto healthy locali-
ties. They get into the honey, and are fed with it to the larve;
then follows a brief period of incubation, after which the
bacilli are produced, which feed upon and destroy the larve,
and pass into the spore state, to re-appear in the resulting
bacilli. The spores are more dangerous than the bacteria,
because of their wonderful powers of resistance to treatment
which would speedily overcome the bacilli. Cheshire declares
that he found the bacilli in queens, and, not only in their
organs, but also in the partially developed eggs in their ovaries.
They are capable of growing in any favourable medium; but
bee-larve, as it is for them a richer soil, offers special attrac-
tions. Weak colonies, and such as are living upon unhealthy
food, or in insanitary conditions, are generally the first to be
attacked, so that, often, at the outbreak, it is not, as is some-
times supposed, the disease that has weakened the stock, but
the weakness of the stock that has invited the disease.

352. PREVENTION.—F oul brood is eminently a disease to which
may be applied, with special force, the maxim—“ Prevention
is better than cure.” For, while the cure must always be exact-
ing and anxious, and to some extent uncertain, the disease may
generally be prevented by methods which, while they involve
little trouble to the bee-keeper, are, in many respects, of
incalculable benefit to his stocks. In the forefront of all desir-
able precautions may be placed—cleanliness; the elimination
of all weak stocks by uniting ; and the encouragement of strong
colonies by the use of only young, vigorous queens, and
suitable food (321-5); thus opposing to the assault of the
bacteria, the vigour of stocks qualified, by a healthy constitu-
tion, to resist the disease.—

“The bees, when their colony is favourably situated, can resist the
disease to a great extent, and the stronger the colony the greater is the
resistance. In the treatment of infectious diseases in man and animals;
and in experiments made by inoculating animals with parasitic bacteria,
the only way yet found to save the infected animal ‘is by strengthening
and increasing the resistance of the host, so that the parasite and its
poison may be unable to prevail against it. The best and safest germi-
cides in foul brood are the bees themselves. If we cultivate the bees
more and the bacteria less, spores will not be so abundant in the hive,
and the bees will be able to attend to them.”—A. W. Smytx, M.D.,
in the Irish Bee Journal.

Naphthaline—an intestinal antiseptic and parasiticide, acting
as a disinfectant to arrest decomposition, enables, or encourages
the bees to remove diseased larve from the hive before

192 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

decomposition sets in, at which point they refuse to do so.
Naphthaline is supplied in balls; and, two of these, divided
into four parts, are placed on the floor board, in the corners
of the hive. These pieces disappear by evaporation in a
couple of months, and are sometimes covered over with pro-
polis by the bees in order to suppress the smell, to which they
have an_objection. This preventive should be renewed as
required. Naphthol Beta should be added to syrup and candy
used for feeding. It is a powerful disinfectant and intestinal
antiseptic, very effective in parasitic diseases: it has a sharp,
pungent taste, and an odour resembling Phenol: it is supplied
in powder, and is soluble in alcohol (325). Hives, and all
appliances used in the apiary, should be kept in a condition as
unfavourable as possible to the bacteria: cleanliness, a lesson
taught by the bees themselves, should be a fixed rule of
management: the moveable floor board should be a sine qua non
in every hive, and should be cleaned and disinfected fre-
quently: and, the bees should have liberty to carry on their
sanitary work in every part of the hive in which organic matter
favourable to the growth of bacteria may be located.

353. TREATMENT.—Foul brood is frequently looked upon as
an incurable disease, to be ended only by sulphur and fire.
But, it has been established beyond doubt that the disease can
be cured, if taken in its initial stages, and even when the attack
has developed considerably, if patience, perseverance, and
thoroughness, with sufficient knowledge of the proper methods
to be adopted, be brought to bear upon it. Destruction by
fire need be recommended only when the disease has been
allowed to make such headway that the stocks affected have
been reduced to a condition that renders them not worth
saving ; or, when the bee-keeper has no qualified friend to help
him, and is, himself, either too inexperienced, too indifferent,
or too lazy to undertake a systematic and, perhaps, protracted
cure. In such a case, it will be better to burn the lot out of
hand, than to suffer weakened colonies of diseased bees, and
hives that are infected, to attract robber bees from healthy
colonies, and to scatter infection throughout the district.

“Rational and simple cures for foul brood have been so long known
to many practical bee-keepers, that it seems strange there are others
quite unable to cope with the disease when it makes its appearance
in their apiaries. The disease has been cured in the past, and can as
readily be cured to-day. There is really no excuse whatever for the
continued existence of foul brood in any apiary, in the light of facts
already placed before bee-keepers.’”’—Simmins.

354. Early Stages: Treatment with Formalin.—Formic
Aldehyde, produced by the limited oxidation of Methyl

DISEASES, &, 193

Alcohol: a gas, condensible by cold to a clear, mobile fluid.
Formalin, the commercial article, is stated to be a 40 per cent.
solution; a powerful antiseptic, and caustic: the vapour is
irritating to the eyes and nose: the article should be used with
caution. When the disease is discovered in its early stages,
that is before it has reached the spore stage, it may be treated
with formalin as follows :—Make a solution of one part formalin
to four parts of water (Recipe 365). Procure a syringe, or a
glass and rubber “ filler,” such as is used with fountain pens,
and a piece of pointed stick. Remove a frame of affected comb,
and shake the adhering becs back into their hive: break, with
the stick, the cappings of the diseased cells, and, with the filler,
inject a drop or two of the solution into each of such cells.
When the stick is not actually in use, keep it in the bottle of
solution, and, at the close of the operation, burn it, and wash
the filler with solution before putting it aside for future use.
Next take a little of the solution, add twice as much water
(Recipe 366), and with this new solution saturate a piece of
cloth, or wool, and place it on the floor board: or, if you havea
ventilator in the floor board (85), place the cloth underneath
the perforated zinc, 50 that the fumes may ascend into the hive,
(Illus. p. 197), and renew the application, from time to time, as
required. Disinfect the clothes and hands immediately after-
wards, lest you should carry infection to other hives (Recipe
364). If there are no supers on the hive treated, feed gently
with medicated syrup (Recipe 321), which will be used by the
nurse bees in feeding the larve. This remedy is a simple one
in its application, and has been proved to be most useful,
when adopted in the early stages of the disease.

355. Advanced Stages: Treatment by Burning.—It fre-
quently happens that bee-keepers, who are not familiar with the
early symptoms of the disease, do not discover its presence
until it has too far advanced to be successfully treated as
recommended above; that is, until there are present, not only
single, scattered, infected cells, but also uneven quantities of
diseased brood, with cells indented or perforated, and con-
taining the coffee-coloured, ropy mass described (350). In
this and subsequent stages, remedies, to be effective, must be
thoroughly and continuously applied; and, as has been said
above (353), if the stocks have been reduced to a condition of
uselessness, and if the owner is not prepared to tackle the
disease in a patient, determined manner, it will be wisest for
him, and more humane, to smother the bees, and to burn all
the contents of the hive; thus, by killing the spores and de-
stroying the infected combs, etc., protecting his healthy colo-
nies. This should be done in the evening, when there are no bees
flying. The smothering of the bees may be best accomplished

194 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

by the use of sulphur, or bi-sulphide of carbon. Remove a
couple of sods beside the hive, and open a hole about a foot
square and, say, three inches deep. In the centre of this hole
place the lid of a small tin box, and into this lid put about a
tablespoonful of sulphur. Drop a red coal into the sulphur,
and immediately lift the hive from its floor board and set it
down over the sulphur, taking care that no bees escape between
the hive and the ground. In a couple of minutes, the bees
will be dead. Now, thoroughly saturate the mass with petro-
leum, and set it on fire; and when all has been burned, throw
in the earth, and put the sods in their places. To kill with
bi-sulphide of carbon :—Close the doors of the hive: separate
two frames, and push down between them a piece of tow,
cotton, or wool: on this pour a tablespoonful of bi-sulphide of
carbon: drop a lighted match upon it, and immediately set on
the quilts and roof. In less than a minute, the bees will be
dead. There will be a slight explosion when the lighted match
comes in contact with the bi-sulphide; but there will be no
danger to the operator, if he be careful to keep his head back
from the hive. It must be said, however, that bi-sulphide of
carbon is a highly inflammable substance, and should be
handled always with extreme caution. When the bees have
been smothered, they can be brushed into a hole, burned, and
covered with the earth and sods. The frames, combs, sheet,
quilts, and all hive fittings that have been in contact with the
disease, should also be burned and buried. The hive, if too
valuable to be destroyed, should be thoroughly disinfected
before being used again. This may be done by painting all
the inside parts with petroleum, and setting it on fire for a
moment or two, when, if a wet sack be thrown over it, the fire
can be extinguished, and the wood be scraped clean. A
painter’s blow lamp may be used to scorch the wood. After-
wards, the inside should be well painted over with a strong
disinfectant (Recipe 363), and should be left in the open air
until the smell of the disinfectant has disappeared.

356. Treatment by Artificial Swarming.—When the owner is
disposed to direct his energies to the cure of the disease in its
advanced stages, he should proceed by the method of artificial
swarming (222). Prepare a skep, with a feed hole on top (318),
and place it on the stand of the infected hive, with a hiving
board (233) in front. Or, better still, instead of a skep, procure
a lidless box (Fig. 110); let into two opposite sides two laths
13” wide, and 3” or 4” apart, nailing them securely, and attach
to the four edges of the laths four slips of foundation running
from end to end and not more than 3” deep. A flight hole must
be bored just over the bottom in one side. The box illus-
trated has been successfully used by the author for the purpose.
The slips of foundation were attached to the laths bv small

DISEASES, &C. 195

tacks, and from them the bees built a considerable quantity of
comb. Invert such a box on the stand of the infected hive,
raised a little in front, and with a hiving board (233) in posi-
tion. Subdue the bees: close the doors: take out the frames
one by one: don’t shake, but brush, tne bees off into a large
sized box, cr into a skep, into which brush every bee remaining
in the hive. Return the infected combs to the hive, and, for
the present, cover up carefully from marauding bees. Now,
hive the bees by throwing them down upon the hiving board
in front of the prepared box (Fig. 110), or skep, already
placed on their old stand. The box, after the bees

Fig. 110.
BOX PREPARED FOR DISEASED BEES,

cluster in it, should be turned up, and a piece of
coarse, open canvas, having a round 2” hole in the
centre for feeding purposes, should be tacked on as a covering.
Ona this, supported by the laths, a feeding stage and bottle will
stand. The box must have a temporary roof, or covering
from rain or robber bees, but so that air may reach the bees
freely through the canvas covering, and through small gimlet-
holes bored in the four sides of the box. The bees may then
be fed with medicated syrup (Recipe 322). After four days the
infected honey carried from the hive will have been used up
as food and for comb building, and the diseased bees will have
succumbed. Prepare, accordingly, a clean hive, with four,
five, or six frames of foundation: place it on the old stand,
with a hiving board in front, and shake the imprisoned bees
on to the hiving board. Place a cloth, saturated with a solu-

196 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

tion of formalin (366), under the floor board ventilator, and
continue to feed the bees with medicated syrup for a week or
ten days. The skep; the box used in the operation; and the
fittings of the old hive should be burned: the hive should also
be burned, or disinfected, as directed above (355); and the
ground around the stand should be turned over. The frames
and combs, it will be safer to burn: but, if it be desired to
save the wax, the combs may be thoroughly boiled (289), the
wax being extracted for household use: the residue and bag
should be burned.

357. Requeening Desirable.—As already stated, foul brood
is a disease of mature bees, as well as of brood (349). A
failure in the treatment recommended, may be due to the
existence of bacilli in the organs of the queen; and, in general,
yequeening should be practised in connection with the other
remedies. The introduction of a young, vigorous queen gives
a better tone to the colony, and promotes that active resistance
to the disease which is so desirabie.

358. Infected Honey Dangerous.—Honey taken from infected
stocks, though quite safe for the owner’s use, should never be
fed back to bees, not even if previously boiled. It is certain
that the spores of foul brood can be communicated to larve in
boiled, infected honey, if fed to them, and that spores will
survive chemical treatment, and even freezing, and boiling,
such as would at once destroy bacilli.

359. Disinfecting Necessary.—Too much emphasis cannot
be laid upon the necessity for a thorough disinfecting of the
hands and clothing, and of hives, frames, combs, and all appli-
ances which may have been in contact with this terrible disease
(Recipes 363-364). No remédies can, by any possibility, prove
effectual unless they include such disinfection. The ground
in the immediate neighbourhood of the hives, also, becomes in-
{ected by the throwing out of particles of injurious matter,
and of diseased larve, and by the accumulation thcre of bees
which had nerished by the disease. It should be well dug, and
the sods should be turned over. Neglect of this detail has,
more frequently than many suppose, led to a recrudescence
of the disease, after it had been satisfactorily grappled with
and overcome in the hives. A recent extensive experiment,
which included the transport for several miles of diseased
stocks, and their treatment there, showed very excellent results
until, some months later, the stocks were returned to their old
stands, when the disease immediately broke out again, and with
renewed activity, which speedily exterminated the stocks.
Evidently, the infection located in the ground about the old
stands had not been dealt with, and the spores of the disease,

DISEASES, &C. 197

capable of growth in suitable material, and impervious to
weather conditions, finding rich soil for their growth in the
healthy larve of the returned stocks, took full advantage of it.

359b. “ American” and “ European ” Foul Brood.-—In 1908-9
Dr. G. F. White and Dr. E. F. Phillips published in the Bulle-
tin of the U.S. Bureau of Entomology, the resulis of certain
investigations into the nature of Bee Diseases. According to

Photo by] [J. G. Digges.
DISEASED STOCK, ‘J. G. D.” VENTILATOR AND ‘“‘ FEDERATION ” DUMMY.

these investigations, which, however, are not yet complete,
Bacillus alvei (351) has been discovered in the disease com-
monly called Biack Brood (341), and to this disease, they,
accordingly, give the new title of “European Foul Brood,”
claiming that it is the disease which was investigated by Cheyne
and Cheshire in England; while to the more prevalent disease
they give the name of “American Foul Brood,” stating that
they have “conclusively demonstrated” its cause to be Bacillus

198 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

larve,
stated :—
« AMERICAN.”

Very prevalent,

Larve attacked about the tiie
of capping.

Colour, first light chocolate, and
later that of roasted coffee.

Cappings sunken and perforated.

Bees do Jittle to clean out.

Matter is ropy and stretches.

Odour of glue.

Scales, very dark brown, strongly
adherent.

Seldom attacks drone or queen
larve.

Infectious.

The differing symptoms, as described, may be here

‘ EUROPEAN,”

Not so widespread.

Larve earlier attacked, a small.
percentage capped.

Colour, first a yellow spot, then
all brown and almost black.

Cappings sunken and perforated.

Bees clean out some dried scales.

Mass does not stretch out.

Odour very slight.

Scales irregular, not strongly
adherent.

Attacks drone and queen
larvee.

Much more infectious.

Cause—Bacillus larve. Cause—Bacillus alvet.

Fig. 111.
“J. @. D.’ VENTILATOR.

360. “Isle of Wight Disease.”—This disease, of which the
cause and cure have still to be discovered, made its first appear-
ance in the Isle of Wight in 1904, and was described in the
Irish Bee Journal (1906) by Mr. H. M. Cooper, Hon. Secretary
of the local Beekeepers’ Association, who said that the symp-
toms of the disease were exactly as described in the Irish Bee
Guide under the heading of “Paralysis,” (333-5). At that
time ninety per cent. of the stocks in the Island had perished.—

“eIn some cases several hundreds of bees are to be seen on the ground
near the hive, often crawling rapidly, but quite unable to fly, their abdomens
greatly distended and containing a large amount of ropy, yellowish-brown
matter. The stocks affected rapidly dwindle, and usually succumb in about
a month or six weeks, leaving their stores, and often a quantity of brood.
The queen appears to keep healthy and survives to the last. Although

re-queening and other remedies have often been tried, the results have always
been fatal.”’—Irish Bee Journal, June, 1906.

DISEASES, &C. 199

In 1907, the Board of Agriculture and Fisheries deputed Mr.
A. D. Imms, B.A., M.Sc., to inquire into the nature and cause
of the disease. His report was published in the Journal of the
Board, June, 1907, and a further report, by Dr. Walter Malden,
appeared in the Journal, February, 1909. Mr. Imms stated
that the earliest noticeable symptom of the disease is the
inability of the affected bees to fly more than a few yards
without alighting. At a later stage the flight extends to a few
feet only from the hive, the bees dropping to the ground, and
crawling up grass stems or hive supports, and dying soon
after. A badly diseased bee crawls with its abdomen dragging
on the ground and distended heyond normal proportions. The

é 4 gy 7 ¥
4 cs hae ta IRISH ABEE, JOURNALS §
Photo by American Photo Co., Croydon.
Fig. 112.
BEE DISEASE IN THE ISLE OF WIGHT.

Upper comb, from centre of brood nest oi diseased hive. Lower comb, from
outside of brood nest of same hive, showing young bees in act of emerging
from cells,

iD)

200 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

trembling motion associated with paralysis (334) was not ob-
served by Mr. Imms. The disease is confined to adult bees,
and does not appear io affect the brood. The distension
referred to is caused by yellowish-brown material filling the
colon and containing an enormous number of pollen grains.
Dr. Malden found plague-like bacilli in the chyle stomach of
diseased bees, and regarded these as the cause of the disease,
but he had not fully established their relationship, as he had
been unable to demonstrate them in every case. In his opinion
death is probably caused by mal-nutrition, possibly combined
with the absorption of a specific poison, and of the products of
decomposition in the colon. Apparently the Isle of Wight
Disease cannot be identified with paralysis, dysentery, or “ May
pest,” however closely related it may be to those diseases. In
1909 the disease was reported as having shown itself in Buck-
inghamshire, Hampshire, and other English counties. No
method of treatment having proved effectual, in 1908 British
and Irish beekeepers contributed to a fund to re-stock the
Island, and sixty healthy stocks were distributed there; but,
at the date of writing, practical and experienced beekeepers on
the spot report that the experiment is unlikely to prove suc-
cessful.

361. Differential Diagnosis.—

Chilled Rlack Pickled Foul Brood
Brood Brood Brood (349)
(336) (341) (345)
7 . ... | Exposure | Bacillus | tspergillus| Bacillus alvei
en 7 teeola pollinis
SymMProms.—
< A ae au Indented ess Dark: Indent-
east ic - ed: Punctured
LARvE—Position ...| Normal ae Lies on Horizontal
back
ey Colour .. | Grey to Black Yellow to Brown
Black Black
7 Consistency aa Jelly-like: | Watery | Ropy: Elastic
No ropiness
PA Smell we None Sour None Gluey
}

RECIPES, &C. 201

RECIPES.
Medicated Syrup.— See Recipes 321-322. Page 183.
” Candy— + 323-324. ,, 184.
Naphthol Beta Solution.— “ 325. 55 184b.

362. Carbolic Solution, for Subduing Bees (127).

Calvert’s No. 5 Carbolic Acid fe ie 1 part.
Water Bel BS oe 10 parts.

Shake the bottle. Thoroughly damp the cloth, and keep it
in a tin box.
363. Carbolic Solution, for Disinfecting [lives (355).—

Calvert’s No. 6 Carbolic Acid He ay 1 part.
Water ce me oer ne en 2 parts.

Paint the hive thoroughly with the solution, and set it in the
open air until the smeil disappears.

364. Carbolic Solution, for MDisinfecting Clothing, etc.
(359).—
Calvert’s No. 5 Carbolic Acid = avs 1 part.
Water As ae os an 15 parts.

365. Formalin Solution, for injecting into Diseased Cells
(354).—

Formalin ne med ze = 1 part.
Water tae ee: a6 eee Hee 4 parts.
366. Formalin Solution, for use under Combs (354).—

Formalin ae ene 6 Se 1 part.
Water one os ms oF a 14 parts,

202 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE,

CHAPTER XXX.
ENEMIES OF BEES.

367. Enemies.—Bees, like every other living thing, have
their natural enemies; and, in some countries, it is very neces-
sary to protect them from a variety of foes. In this country,
however, all that is required is to keep the stocks strong enough
to protect themselves, and to give them hives that do not offer
special facilities to the attacks of dangerous intruders.

368. Ants.—These insects (61) sometimes make their nests
about the hives, and give a little trouble. But healthy bees
are very well able to cope with them. Naphthaline (352) in the
hives, and among tke quilts, discourages ants. To stand the
hives in saucers of water, or tar, will keep out these insects.
If they become very troublesome, the nests should be destroyed
by making a hole a foot deep through the centre of the nest
with a pointed stick, and two or three similar holes around it,
when, 4-oz. of bi-sulphide of carbon (355) may be poured into
each hole, and the clay may then be closed in. Bi-sulphide of
carbon is highly inflammable, and must not be brought near
fire or lamp.

369. Birds.—Sparrows, Starlings, Chaffinches, Blue Tits,
and even Swallows, occasionally prey upon bees. In hard
winters, birds may sometimes be seen on the alighting boards,
picking up venturous bees. It is not reasonable to declare
war upon, and to destroy these beautiful things for obeying
their instincts in search of food, when frost has dried up the
earth, and berries are no longer in the hedgerows. All that
is necessary is to arrange a yard of old herring netting in front
of the hive; thus, at the expense of a penny, protecting each
colony until the opening of spring shall offer other provender
to the songsters of the woods.

370.—Earwigs.—Earwigs seldom enter the hive proper, but
are often found behind dummies; under the shoulders of
frames; and among the quilts. They do no harm. Naphtha-
line (352) will drive them off. Standing the hive in saucers of
water, or tar, will prevent their entrance.

371. Mice.—When winter drives the bees away from the
entrance, mice will creep into hives and make their nests in
the warmth, if the space at the doors is more than 3” high.

ENEMIES OF BEES. 203

They eat honey and chilled bees, and set up a stench which is
so highly objectionable to bees that colonies will often forsake
such hives in the spring; and, if returned, will refuse to
remain. Bees have been known to completely cover up a dead
mouse with propolis, in order to suppress the smell; and they
will refuse to occupy supers that have been visited by mice
when carelessly stored away in winter. Entrances that are too
high should be reduced to 3”, and all hive fittings, foundation,
etc., should be protected from the visits of mice.

372. Parasites.—The Blind Louse (Braula cwca)—a red louse,
sometimes found upon the bodies of queens and workers.
These generally are more numerous upon queens, and are very
worrying. More common in warm climates, they have been
known to destroy whole colonies in Italy, where it is not un-
common for stocks, affected in this way, to forsake their hives.
The lice may sometimes he picked off the bodies of queens.
A little tobacco smoke will cause them to drop on to the floor
board, when they can be swept into a vessel and destroyed.
The Pollen Mite—This insect is often found in pollen cells in
weak colonies. Not actually harmful to the bees, strong stocks
quickly clear them out of their hives. The Maggot (Stylops)—
This maggot is commonly found in the abdomens of Andrene,
and other wild bees. It has not been reported as appearing
in the honey bee.

373. Wasps.—In autumn, wasps sometimes struggle hard to
gain access to the honey in hives; and, as these insects are
both stronger and more active than bees, they can do a good
deal of mischief in weak colonies. When their attacks become
troublesome, a “dark passage” may be constructed on the
alighting board, as advised for robber bees (310). Bottles,
with a little beer, or sugar and water, if left beside the alighting
boards, will attract and catch these enemies. Their nests
should be destroyed wherever found; and queen wasps should
get short shrift. To destroy wasps’ nests, place small pieces
of cyanide of potassium at the entrance of each nest. Never
interfere with a wasps’ nest during the day: mark it with a
piece of stick and white paper, and do the killing by lantern
light.

374. Wax Moth.—The Wax Moth (Galleria cereana) is about
3” long. These moths breed two or three times in one year.
They are very fleet in their movements—“the most nimble-
footed creatures that I know.”—Reaumur. They may some-
times be seen flying in front of a hive on a cioudy afternoon
in summer. At night, if she can gain admission, the female
deposits eggs in the hive. The worms from these eggs devour
wax, brood, pollen, and the cast-off skins of bee larve, during

Pod THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

from fourteen to twenty days, according to the temperature,
They spin around their bodies white, silken cases, and further
fortify themselves with a coat of wax and their own cxcrement.
They expose only their heads and necks, and these are sa
strongly helmeted with scales as to be impenetrable to stings.
They perforate the combs, and cover them with webs, cocoons,
and excrements, speedily working ruin in the hive, and emerg-
ing as perfect winged moths. Bees seem to realise fully the
danger of admitting the wax moth; and, unless the colony is
weak or queenless, the moth will stand but a poor chance of
getting into the hive. But, bee-kecpers often introduce the
mischief to their colonies; for, combs out of use when left
lying about, attract the moths, and become fruitful sources of
danger when given to the stocks. When the danger threatens,
weak colonies, if not united to strong colonies, should be con-
fined to the combs which they can cover and defend; for, if
the outer combs be left vacant, the moth, on entering, will be
able to work her mischief unhindered. The larve of wax moth
should be destroyed when found; and comb infested by this
enemy should be removed and the wax extracted. Combs that
are not beyond saving may be placed in hive bodies, or super
boxes, piled up on an empty box in which some ounces of
sulphur have been placed and kindled. The receptacles being
properly covered, the sulphur fumes will ascend and will kill
the moths and grubs, This treatment should be renewed
after a few weeks.

Fig. 113.
WATER FOUNTAIN,

WINTERING, 205

CHAPTER XXXI.
WINTERING.

375. Successful Wintering.—So much depends upon the
successful wintering of bees, some general advice may, per-
haps, be usefully given here. The main points to be attended
to are—(1) To winter only strong stocks. (2) To provide a
sufficient quantity of wholesome food. (3) To keep the bees
as quiet as possible. (4) To supply sufficient ventilation.
{5} To avoid damp, and the ill-effects of storms.

376. Winter only Strong Stocks.—Small stocks of bees con-
sume more food, proportionally, than do strong stocks, and are
seldom profitable in the following year. Frequently such
stocks die out altogether before the spring opens, from in-
ability to keep up the necessary heat of their cluster, and from
excessive consumption of food, leading to dysentery (328).
Stocks that do not cover at least six frames in the middle of
September, should be either strengthened by the addition of
healthy, driven bees (250), or should be united to each other,
or to stronger stocks.

377. Provide a Sufficient Quantity of Wholesome Food.—This
has been dealt with under the heading of “Feeding” (315).
The bees cluster on the empty parts of the combs, just below
the honey, the head of each bee under the abdomen of the bee
above her; and the food is passed down from one to another
until, during a warm hour on some sunny day, the lower bees
find opportunity to move up to the food. As the bees on the
outside of the mass become chilled, they pass into the warmth
of the cluster. But, when the food in the immediate vicinity
of the cluster is consumed, the bees, in very cold weather, are
unable to move to distant combs, and will often starve to death
in the midst of plenty. Therefore, the food required should be
given rapidly, towards the middle of September, and the combs
with sealed food should be moved to the centre of the hive
where the clustering bees may have access to them. Candy,
if given, should be placed right over the cluster; and, when
candy is not supplied there, “winter passages” should be
provided, to permit the bees to pass from comb to comb without
having to go under or around the frames in cold weather, when
many of them would become chilled, and the remainder, refusing

206 THE PRACTICAL BEB GUIDE.

to leave the warmer portion of the hive, would perish from
hunger. Two picces of stick, 3” thick, laid across the frames,
say 1” apart, provide a winter passage under the sheet.
Entrances should be sheltered from direct sun rays while snow
is on the ground, lest bees, attracted by the light and heat,
should fall on the snow and dic; and lest those within, en-
couraged to break up the cluster, should continue in a state of
activity throughout the winter, consuming extra food, exhaust-
ing their vitality, and, probably, falling victims to disease.
Towards the end of February, or the beginning of March, if
the weather permit, a corner of the sheet may be raised for a
moment, when, if it is seen that food is required, a cake of
flour candy (324) should be given at once.

378. Keep the Bees as Quiet as Possible.—Sudden changes
of temperature lead to increased activity in the cluster, and
this means increased consumption of food, with the frequent
result of filling the intestines with digested food, which, the
bees being unwilling to void it in the hive (11), promotes
dysentery (328). Therefore, unnecessary, empty combs should
be removed, and the nest should be reduced to the size required
by the bees, the dummy being moved up for the purpose.
Warm coverings should be placed over the frames. A section
crate, witha piece of stuff tacked underneath, and filled with cork
dust, dry chaff, or torn paper, may be set upon the quilts (96).
With hives constructed for the purpose, the riser (87) may be
inverted over the body box, thus supplying additional walls ;
and the porch may be
transferred from the
body box to it. (Fig.
110, a)

379. Supply Su ffi-
cient Ventilation.—
When danger of rob-
bing is over, the bees
having ceased to fly
freely, the doors of all
hives should be opened
to a space of about six
inches ; and, frequently
during the winter, a
crooked wire should be
used to draw out any
dead bees which, accu-
mulating near the en-
trance, might prevent
ventilation, and lead to

Fig 14. the smothering of the
THATCHED SKEP. living bees within.

Cima

WINTERING. 207

380. Avoid the Ill-effects of Damp and Storims.—Care should
be taken to make all hive roofs thoroughly waterproof, because,
damp entering is very unhealthy. Damaged roofs should be
repaired and well painted before the winter sets in; and, where
necessary, waterproof covers should be put on in anticipation
of severe rain and snow. Elvery’s waterproof cover can be
put on and taken off in a minute or two, and gives complete
protection. A defective roof can be
made rainproof by giving it a coat
of thick paint, then laying on, while
the paint is wet, a piece of canvas or
calico to cover the roof top. This
material should have a good coat of
paint, and a second coat when the
first has dried. Skeps require special
attention in this respect. They
should have a thick covering of
straw, ticd securely at the top, and
held to the skep by hoops (Fig. 114).
Storms sometimes make havoc of
stocks by upsetting, or unroofing
the hives. A stake should be driven
into the ground close to the hive,
and a rope, carrying a heavy stone, Fig. 115.
or a couple of bricks, and tied tothe HIVE SECURED AGAINST
stake at one end, should be passed STORMS,
over the hive as a protection against storms (Fig. 115}. Snow
should be brushed off the hive roofs before it melts.

Photo by) [J. G. Digges.
Fig. 116.
HIVES PREPARED FOR (a) WINTER AND (b) SUMMER.

THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XXXII.
WORK FOR THE MONTH.

381. January.— Towards the end of the month, if stores are
required, give a cake of flour candy (324) under the quilts.
Disturb the bees as little as possible. Examine under the roofs
for damp, and make repairs where necessary. Remove dead
bees from entrances (379). Attend to instructions under the
head of “ Wintering ” (375).

382. February.—Feed with flour candy (324) where necessary.
Remove dead bees from entrances (379). Replace damp quilts
by dry ones. Tidy up the apiary. Overhaul hives not in use;
and clean and disinfect them (355).

383. March.—Feed with flour candy where necessary (324).
In a case of impending starvation, give a quart or two of thick,
warm syrup (Recipe 322) as fast as the bees will take it. Supply
artificial pollen (192) and water (319). Uncap some honey in
combs, every few days; and, about the end of the month, begin
stimulative feeding (313). Reduce entrances to one bee space
as a protection against robbing (310). Unite qucenless stocks
to others having queens (247). Keep a look out for signs of
disease (327). Order sections, foundation, hives, and other
appliances for the coming season. Prepare sections (257) and
wired frames (261). Have all vacant hives cleaned and ready
for “spring cleaning” next month (252). Sow seeds of bee
flowers (Chapter XXXIV.).

384. April.—Attend to spring cleaning, transferring stocks
to clean hives (252). Add warm, dry wraps where required.
Keep a look out daily for robbing (307). Examine all stocks
for signs of queenlessness (283) and disease (327). Begin to
build up stocks, so that they may be at full strength not later
than June ist (311). Unite weak stocks, saving the better
queen (246). Continue stimulative feeding (313). Spread
brood, using all the precautions recommended (193). During
manipulations, guard against robbing (308) and chilled brood
(338). Fix foundation in sections (258) and frames (263).
Prepare for queen rearing (286). Destroy queen wasps where
found (373).

385. May.—Continue stimulative feeding (313). Spread the
brood (193). Supply water if required (319). Open doors to
full width when honey comes in plentifully and danger of

WORK FOR THE MONTH. 209

robbing is over. Prepare and furnish sections, crates, super
boxes, and frames of wired foundation (255). Double strong
stocks (270). Watch for signs of honey flow (265) and give
supers in good time. Provide against swarming by giving
room and ventilation (218). Prepare hives for swarms. Pro-
ceed with queen rearing (286). Form nuclei (290).

386. June.—-Supply supers as soon as honey flow begins, and
add fresh supers as required (269). Make artificial swarms
where desired (222). Attend to nuclei (290). Give ventilation
(218). Extract honey from combs in body box, and return
extracted combs to centre of brood nest (217).

387. July.—See that ventilation is sufficient in hot days (218).
Add supers as required (269). Supply young queens from
nuclei (295). Extract from combs in body box (217) as recom-
mended in June.

388. August.—Extract honey, as directed for June and July
(217). Transport stocks to heather (156-158). Remove supers
at end of honey flow (272). Begin stimulative feeding (314).
Guard against robbing (308). Examine roofs, after hot weather
(88). Increase stocks by driven bees (159).

389. September.—Unite weak stocks (246). Strengthen
stocks with driven bees (250). Begin autumn feeding about
September 15th, and complete it by September 30th (315).
Reduce entrances to prevent robbing (310).

390. October.—Reduce brood nest to space required (378).
Give candy if required (316). Provide winter passages (377).
Give warm wraps. Attend to instructions for wintering (375).
Clean and store appliances. Protect hives against storms,
rain and snow (380). Plant crocus. and other pollen and honey
yielding bulbs (Chapter XXXIV.).

391. November.—Attend to winter feeding, if required (316).
Open entrances to six inches, if danger of robbing is over.

Make any necessary changes in the apiary (156.283). Attend
to instructions for wintering (375).

392. December.—Remove snow from roofs before it thaws.
Shield entrances from direct sunshine, while snow is on the
ground (377). Remove dead bees from entrances (379).
Attend to instructions for wintering (375).

[Advice upon all matters connected with bee-keeping may be had
on application to the Author, addressed—“ Editor, Irish Bee Journal,
Louyn Kynn, BS.U., Co. Leitrim, Ireland.” (161), Queries are replied
to by telegraph or post, or in the columns of the Journal :—If required
by telegraph, 6d. should be forwarded; if per post, a stamped, addressed
envelope should be enclosed for reply. Telegrams - Digges, Mohitl.]

210 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

CHAPTER XXNXIII.
EXHIBITING AND JUDCING BEE PRODUCTS.

393. Points to be Aimed at.—The chief features of excellence
which are looked for by judges of Bee Products at the leading
shows may be summarized as follows, the marks attached to
each being those approved and recommended by the Irish Bee-
keepers’ Association, March, 1910:—

SEctions.—Clompleteness of filling, including weight and free-
dom from popholes and unsealed cells, 25; condition, includ-
ing uniformity of cappings, flatness of surface, and freedom
from “travel stain,” propolis, “ weeping,” bruising, and other
disfigurements, 20; flavour and aroma, 20; colour of cappings,
10; general appearance of the exhibit, including squareness
and cleanness of the wood and glass, glazing, suitability of
paper decorations—if any (the overlap of paper not to exceed
2"), method of staging—if any, and general attractiveness, 25.
Total marks, 100.

Exrractep Hongy (Liquid).—Colour, which, in classes for
“Light” Honey, may range from clear to a pale straw tint,
“Medium” Honey from light to dark, Heather Honey to dark
brown, 10; density, or thickness, 30; flavour and aroma, 25;
condition, including clearness and freedom from froth, air
bubbles, suspended matter, and granulation, 20; general ap-
pearance of the exhibit, including quality and make of bottle,
or jar, safety from leakage, neatness of label, and general
attractiveness, 15. Total marks, 100.

Exrractrp Honry (Granulated).—Colour, which may range
from white to amber, and, in the case of Heather Honey,
to dark brown, 10; condition, including regularity and com-
pleteness of granulation and fineness of grain, 35; flavour and
aroma, 25; general appearance of the exhibit, including quality
and make of bottle, or jar, neatness of label, and general
attractiveness, 15. Total marks, 85.

Supers or Honey, exhibited as removed from the hive,
without re-arrangement or cleaning.—Preliminary preparation,
and, condition as exhibited, including squareness of sections,
suitability of separators, follower, and spring, evenness of
comb, and freedom from “ travel stain,” propolis, and other
disfigurements of super, sections, or frames, and comb, 20;
weight of contents, 20; wniformity and colour of cappings, 10.
Total marks, 50.

EXHIBITING AND JUDGING BEE PRODUCTS. 211

Burswax.—-Colour, ranging from lemon to pale amber, 20;
freshness, cleanness and purity, including absence of dross, 20;
aroma, 10; texture, including freedom from brittleness, 10.
Total marks, 60.

Mrap.--Flavour, 10; clearness and brilliancy, 10; attractive-
ness of bottle and label, 10. Total marks, 30.

Vinecar.—Flavour, 10; clearness and brilliancy, 10; attrac-
tiveness of bottle and label, 10. Total marks, 30.

394. Early Exhibition Sections.—As it is necessary to have
the cappings of exhibition sections uniform in colour and per-
fectly free from “travel stain,” the sections must be finished
as quickly as possible, and must be removed from the hive as
soon as they have been finished. If an exhibit of the current
season be needed for an early show, select more than the
required number of good, clean sections well filled with comb
from the previous season, and, with the opening of the first
honey flow, place these, over an excluder, on the strongest
stock that gives the whitest cappings (46°49), and wrap them
up as warmly as possible at the sides, ends, and on top of the
crate. Defer as long as vou safely can the addition of an
extra crate, and if the exhibition lot is not fit for removal when
a second crate must be given in order to prevent swarming,
leave the first crate undisturbed, and give the second crate on
top. But, assuming that the first crate was set upon nine
frames only—which is common enough in the early season,
the addition of a second crate may be postponed by giving
an extra frame, or frames, as required, in the brood nest, and
this will help to prevent a slackening of work in the crate.
Should a swarm issue, hive it on the old stand in a new hive
fitted with only six or seven frames of foundation; add a half
inch board (266) behind the dummy to prevent the escape of
bees there; place the excluder, and the exhibition crate with
its bees, on top to be finished by the swarm. When com-
pleted, remove the crate by means of a super clearer (274,
275), and in no other way, or you will probably have broken
cappings to destroy your exhibit (397). Be careful that no
cappings become bruised when the sections are being taken
from the crate; proceed in this way,—remove the spring, or
wedge, from behind the follower (196, and Figs. 35 and 36),
place a tray, or a clean, flat board upon the crate, carefully
turn all over on a table, then loose the crate and lift it off the
sections, when the latter may be separated without risk of
being damaged.

395. Mid-Season Exhibition Sections.—Sections intended for
the Clover, or “Light” Honey exhibition classes, should he

212 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

worked from the foundation in the current season. Before
the flow from clover opens, select a stock that is already doing
good work, through an excluder, in its first crate, and that can
be relied upon for white cappings (46-49), and when clover
begins to yield, give that stock, under its first crate, a crate of
clean, new sections, carefully folded, and furnished with full
sheets of worker-comb foundation stopping an eighth of an
inch from the bottom of each section. Do not disturb the
stock again for a week. If then the first crate proves to be
ready for removal, remove it with the aid of a super clearer
(274-275), without in any way disturbing the exhibition crate,
and give a new crate on top. On the question of yiving the
bees more room before the completion of the exhibition crate,
careful judgment must be exercised. If more frames should
be required, or another crate, or should the stock swarm, and
for che removal of the exhibition crate and the separation of
the sections, the instructions given in the preceding paragraph
($94) should be followed.

396. Heather Sections for Exhibition.—If it is intended to
enter competition in the classes for Heather, or “ Dark,” Honey
Sections, select more than the required number of incomplete,
but well-built sections from the earlier season’s crates; extract
the honey, and give the sections, wet from the extractor and
over an excluder, to your best stock, placing the choicest speci-
mens in the central positions in the crate. Not more than
one or two crates should be given to that stock, and such
exhibition crate, or crates, should be wrapped as warmly as
possible round the sides and ends, and on the top. Should
the bees appear to be unable to use to advantage all their avail-
able space before the exhibition sections are completed, do not
hesitate to reduce the space, either by removing sections, or
by withdrawing frames, so that the required sections may
receive from the bees all the attention necessary. For the
subsequent details, as to removing the sections from the hive
and from the crate, the preceding instructions should be fol-
lowed (394).

397. Selecting Exhibition Sections.-—-The most unselfish and
unbiased skill, care, and judgment must now be brought to
bear upon the delicate task of selecting the sections for exhi-
bition, for it is at this point that so many exhibitors come to
grief. Assume that the sections belong to your bitterest
enemy—if you have such, and that you are the appointed judge,
bound in honour to give them the most critical examination
and to discover the slightest defect. During the selection,
keep in mind the following essential considerations :—Sections
for exhibition should be filled to the wood on all sides and

EXHIBITING AND JUDGING BEE PRODUCTS. 213

completely sealed. Sections 2” wide and so filled and com-
pleted will weigh 18 oz. or 19 oz. gross, including the wood,
or 17 oz. or 18 oz. net. The wood of a section weighs 1 oz. ;
therefore, a section of honey which does not turn the scales at
17 0Z. is not entitled to full marks for weight, and is, accord-
ingly, unsuitable for competition. Bulging, or any uneven-
ness, of the comb is a fault which must be excluded from the
show bench; the surface of the comb should be quite flat
corresponding with the cut-away sides of bee-way sections, or
in the case of no-bee-way sections, about 3” short of the edges
of the wood on both sides. “Travel stain,” which is the
result of leaving sections too long in the hive, detracts from
ihe appearance and sacrifices marks in competition. Propolis
on the wood must be removed. Punctured cappings (394) are
to be avoided; they are generally the result of a defective
method of clearing the bees from supers,—much smoke, or
excessive use of carbolic or other intimidating medium, having
the effect of driving the bees to gorge at the cells, and thus the
appearance of the contents is injured and their value reduced:
this defect may be obviated by the proper use of super cléarers
(274, 275, 394). “Weeping” describes the condition of a comb
that has been stored in a cold, damp place, the honey, with its
absorbed moisture, exuding through the cappings in minute
drops (302): to state the cause is to describe the necessary pre-
cautions to be taken; no weeping sections have any chance
with a moderately competent judge (303).

$98. Preparing Exhibition Sections.—Having made your
selection, prepare the sections for display on the show bench
(303). With a cabinetmaker’s scraper, a piece of glass, or a
blunt penknife, scrape the wood of the sections thoroughly,
avoiding any injury to
the comb, and finish
> off with fine sand-
paper. No matter what
covering or ornament-
ation it is intended to
subsequently employ,
this cleaning of the
wood should invariably
Fig. 117. be attended to because

GLAZED EXAIBITION CASE, it is right and seemly

: ; in itself, and because

any experienced judge will look for it. The sections
may then be glazed, as described (304), neatness, taste,
and the most scrupulous cleanliness being essential
here: the overlap of paper, or of lace paper, should not exceed

214 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

x”, and all tinsel and gaudy colours should be rigorously ex-
cluded. Sections may be shown in special boxes made and sold
for the purpose (304, and Fig. 102, page 171), or in exhibition
cases (Fig. 117), or failing any of the foregoing, they may be
Wrapped in wax paper and tied with narrow ribbon, All extra-
vagant and fantastic designs of decoration should be avoided.
The exhibit should be carefully packed ready for despatch, and
should be kept in a warm place, meanwhile, to avoid “ weep-
ing.” Where it is possible to do so, exhibitors should stage
their own exhibits, leaving them in the best order and condi-
tion for the judge.

399. Extracted Clover, or “ Light,” Honey for Exhibition.—To
secure suitable specimens of Clover, or “Light,” Honey, for
extraction, it is desirable to have on hands a supply of frames
of good, clean combs, absolutely free from honey and pollen;
they should have had their honey extracted, and have been
given back to the bees, over a super clearer, to be cleaned
(274), and should then have been carefully wrapped up and
stored until required. Immediately upon the clover coming
into bloom, the frames should be given, in a super box and
over an excluder, to a strong stock, and should be removed,
whether finished or not, so soon as the flow from clover ceases.

400. Extracting and Preparing Clover, or “ Light,” Honey for
Exhibition.—Extracting may be carried out according to the
instructions already given (276-278). The extractor (134),
strainer (136), and ripener (136) must be as clean as it is pos-
sible to make them, and nothing must be permitted to add
either flavour or colour to the honey after its removal from the
hive. Density, which is an essential qualification, cannot be
secured to the full extent in honey extracted from unsealed
cells. because such honey has not been thoroughly ripened,
and for show purposes it will not do to ripen it artificially.
If, therefore, the combs to be dealt with contain the least
quantity of unsealed honey, that honey must first be extracted
and stored away, and then the remainder of the combs may be
uncapped and their contents may be extracted for exhibition;
or, as an alternative, such combs may be uncapped, and re-
volved in the extractor at a speed only sufficient to throw out
the unripe honey, which must be drawn off, the combs being
then revolved at the speed necessary to extract the ripe honey
required. One week after extraction (276) and straining (277),
the ripe honey may be run off from the bottom of the ripener,
and should be kept in bulk, in an air tight tin and in a warm
place. Three or four days from the date of the show at which
the exhibit is to be made, the tin of honey should be set in a
vessel of hot water until the honey reaches’ 80° Fahr., when it

EXHIBITING AND JUDGING BEE PRODUCTS. 215

may be run into the selected jars. The jars must be left in
a warm place, covered from dust, until all air bubbles, or
scum, in the honey shall have risen to the top, when the
bubbles, or scum, must be carefully skimmed off, and, if
necessary, an addition of ripened and skimmed honey should
be added to bring the contents of each jar up to 16 oz.
Uniformity being necessary, with respect to flavour, colour,
and density, if there is any difference in the exhibits, the
quantity required for the jars should be mixed in one vessel
beforehand. Care must be taken to exclude any honey that
may have been tainted with honey dew (61), because such an
admixture would utterly spoil the colour and flavour of the
exhibit. The jars for exhibition purposes must be carefully
selected, of clear, flawless glass, and, preferably, with screw
caps fitted with cork wads (306). For each jar, cut a circular
piece of wax paper the same size as the cork wad; put this on
the mouth of the jar, set the cork wad upon it, and screw the
cap tightly home. A neat label should be added (306).

401, Extracted Heather, or “ Dark,” Honey for Exhibdition.—
As in the case of Heather sections (396), built out combs, wet
from the extractor, should be used over an excluder. Owing to
the difficulty of removing heather honey from the combs in
an ordinary extractor, if the extractor is to be used the combs
to be employed should be tough and strong, and preferably
drone combs. if the honey is to be extracted by means of
the Honey Press (137), or by melting (402), fresh, virgin
combs will serve best.

402. Extracting and Preparing Heather, or “Dark,” Honey for
Exhibition.—If it is intended to remove the heather honey by
means of an extractor, everything required should be in readi-
ness, in a warm room, to extract the honey hot from the hives,
for if it be allowed to cool, extraction will be exceedingly diffi-
cult. It will be found more practicable to crush the comb in a
Honey Press (137. 276), or to melt the wax. In the former case,
the combs should be heated up to 120° Fahr., being placed in
the Press as directed (276). If the melting process is to be
adopted, the sealed combs should be cut out and placed in a tin
vessel, which should then be set in a pot of warm water, with a
wire mat, or other suitable device, underneath, to keep the tin
about 3” up from the bottom of the pot; the water must then be
heated gradually, and the contents of the tin must be stirred
frequently until the wax begins to melt, at which point the
temperature must be maintained until all the wax has melted,
for if the melting point of wax (144°, 62) be exceeded, the
flavour of the honey may be spoiled (366). When all the wax has
melted, the contents of the tin must be allowed to cool until

Yr

216 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

the wax can be lifted off the top in a cake, after which, without
further cooling, the honey may be strained into the selected
jars and treated as described above (400).

403. Supers of Honey for Exhibition.—The object of this
class is to encourage careful handling of the sections, frames,
foundation, crates, and super boxes, and to judge of the
capability of the exhibitor through the perfection, or otherwise,
of his entire exhibit, his aim being to produce the maximum
of good comb and honey with the minimum of propolis, travel
stain, popholes, and other detractions. If the crate, or super
box, is to be exhibited exactly as taken from the hive, none of
the contents may be handled subsequently, nor may any marks
or stains be removed. Accordingly, all the more care must be
taken with the preliminary details, viz.:—The choice of a stock
that may be relied upon to give good work and to finish with
white cappings (46-49); the selection of the crate, or super
box, only such as are absolutely accurate in all their measure-
ments (103, 108) being employed; the folding of sections and
the putting together of frames; the insertion of foundation,
separators, follower, and spring or wedge; the application of
vaseline, or petroleum jelly (174), to minimise propolising ; the
accurate fitting and evenness of sheet and quilts; the careful
wrapping of the crate, or super box, with warm materials, to
conserve heat and expedite the work. If these details be pro-
perly attended to, the results should be satisfactory, but if any
of these details should be neglected, failure will probably
follow.

404. Beeswax for Exhibition.—The best results are obtained
from cappings and virgin comb. When preparing combs for
the extractor, the whitest cappings should be taken off with as
little as possible adhering comb, and be set apart for exhibition
purposes, and when the honey from them has drained off, they
should be left in a vessel of clean rain water for a few days.
Hard water, or water containing lime, should never be
used in any of the processes adopted for wax-rendering,
for it injures the quality of the wax. Upon removal
from the water the wax should be dried, kneaded
into small balls, and inserted, preferably in a steam wax
extractor (140), or, if such an extractor is not available, the
wax may be put into a perfectly clean earthenware jar in a
moderately hot oven, or in a pot of boiling water on the range.
When the wax has melted it should be strained through fine
muslin into a bowl of warm water, and allowed to cool slowly,
for rapid cooling produces cracks in the wax. When cool, and
before it is perfectly cold, the cake of wax should be lifted off
the water, and should have all dross and dirt scraped away;

EXHIBITING AND JUDGING BEE PRODUCTS. 217

it may then be broken up, re-melted, and poured through
muslin into a suitable mould, or moulds, previously wet with
clean water, and should be allowed to cool as slowly as possible.
The processes of melting, straining, and scraping may be
repeated so long as there remain any impurities to be removed,
but they should not be carried to the point of injuring the
texture of the wax and making it brittle. As elsewhere stated
(280), dark wax may have its colour improved by the addition
of sulphuric acid (vitriol) to the water in which it is to be
melted. When old combs are being dealt with for exhibition
purposes, the following method may be adopted with advan-
tage :—Set two vessels of hot water side by side on the range;
into one crush as many combs as it will hold, leaving some
inches to spare for the swelling of the wax when it boils. As
the wax melts, skim it off, as free as possible from dirt, into
the second vessel, and discontinue this process when the wax
becomes too dirty for the purpose; the first vessel is then to
be emptied and cleaned, its wax contents being reserved for
further treatment. Now put some boiling water into the empty
vessel, and also a large, clean jam crock containing some boil-
ing water; strain the wax from the second vessel, through
fine muslin, into the crock; then stir it with a thin piece of
wood, and, as you stir, drop a little sulphuric acid, drop by
drop, on to the wax; this will improve the colour and will
help to remove any impurities that may have escaped the
strainer. Now remove the vessel containing the crock and
wax to the side of the range, cover it with a lid, and let the
cooling be very gradual. When the cake of wax is cool scrape,
or cut, from it all impurities. From a number of cakes so
prepared select the best specimens, weighing in all a little
more than is required, and re-melt these in the crock after
having thoroughly cleaned the latter. Damp the inside of
your mould with clean water, pour in the melted wax, and set
the mould in a pot of hot water where the wax may cool as
slowly as possible to avoid cracks. This method, even when
applied to combs black with age, has resulted in first prizes
at leading shows, where competition was exceptionally keen,
the careful skimming of the wax before it had time to become
discoloured, and the subsequent processes, having produced
cakes of wax of exceptional merit. As an alternative to the
former methods—although not one which can be as strongly
recommended—the boiling process (280) previously described
may be adopted, the wax being ladelled off as it rises, to be
treated as advised above.

405. Mead for Exhibition.—Mead for the show bench should
be well flavoured, full bodied, clear, and, if possible, sparkling.
The honey used in its manufacture should be light and well

218 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

ripened, and throughout the whole process the utmost cleanli-
ness must be secured, not only in the ingredients, but also in
every vessel employed. Use 4 lbs. honey to each gallon of
water, and allow the honey to dissolve, then put it into a
copper, or large boiler, add 1 oz. hops and 4 oz. ginger per
gallon, and boil it for one hour, skimming off the scum as it
rises. When sufficiently boiled, pour it into a wooden vessel,
and when its temperature has reduced to 120° add 1 oz. of
brewer's yeast per gallon, mix this well with the liquor, which
must then be covered and allowed to stand in the vessel for
about eight hours. Next it must be poured into a perfectly
clean barrel, and as the contents ferment, the barrel must be
filled up with more of the liquor, an extra half-gallon having
been prepared for the purpose beyond what the barrel is con-
structed to hold. When fermentation has ceased, dissolve } oz.
of isinglass in a cupful of water, pour it into the barrel, and
stir well; this is to clear the liquid. After about six days draw
off the liquor into a second perfectly clean barrel, filling the
barrel completely, and drive in the bung as tightly as possible.
It must stand for at least six months, after which it may be
bottled. The bottles must, of course, be perfectly clean, the
corks should be new, and they should be fastened with wire,
and covered with tinfoil, a neat label being pasted on the
side of each bottle.

406. Vinegar for Exhibition.—For the production of a
supetior exhibit of vinegar, all that is necessary is to use the
right ingredients, to study cleanliness in all the processes, and
to regulate the temperature with a certain degree of accuracy.
Take 1 Ib. of good extracted honey, add it to 7 lbs. of fresh
clean water in a wooden vessel (or 1 lb. of honey to 54 pints
of water), and stir the mixture thoroughly. Cover the vessel
with two thicknesses of fine muslin, and keep it at a tempera-
ture of about 80° Fahr. It may be exposed to the sunshine
in summer, being brought into a warm kitchen for the night.
After about six weeks, if the vinegar proves right to the taste,
strain it into another wooden vessel, stir in 3 oz. of isinglass
dissolved in a few ounces of water, and allow it to stand for
a fortnight; then bottle it in clear glass bottles, using new
corks, which may be covered with tinfoil; put on an attractive
label.

407. Judging Bee Products.—No one who accepts appoint-
ment as a judge of Bee Products hopes to please and satisfy
all the exhibitors; but if he desires to do absolute justice,
and to carry out his mission creditably, he will be wise to
adopt a fixed scale of marks for the various points, and to
rigidly adhere to those marks. By no other method ¢an judg-

EXHIBITING AND JUDGING BEE PRODUCTS. 219

ing be conducted satisfactorily. In a previous paragraph
(393) the points have been described, and attached to each is
the scale of marks adopted and recommended by the Irish
Beekeepers’ Association in 1910. No judge can go far astray
who follows the lead thus given. He will require a glass
taster—which can be procured for a few pence—a magnifying
glass, and a scales with the necessary weights up to 20 0z.,
which should be supplied by the Show Committee. He should
also be provided by the Show Committee with a supply of
judge’s cards, which should contain, in parallel columns,
spaces for the exhibitors’ numbers, for the marks to be awarded
under each point, for the total marks obtained by each
exhibitor, for the maximum marks possible, and for the award,
with a space in which the judge’s remarks upon any exhibit
may be entered opposite the number and marks of that exhibit.
As the judge proceeds to examine the sections, he will first
entcr the maximum marks possible at the head of the columns
for points (if this has not been already done), and then he will
enter the numbers attached to the exhibits, in vertical order,
in the first column on his card; next he will test each exhibit
for “completeness of filling, including weight and freedom
from popholes and unsealed cells.” The exhibits will be
weighed, and each exhibit that turns the scale at 17 oz. will be
entitled to full marks for weight (say 15), nor will any com-
petent judge award extra marks for weight over 17 0z., no
more than he would to 13 lbs. of butter exhibited as a 1 lb.
roll; if the sections are free from popholes and unsealed cells
they will be entitled to full marks (say 10), thus securing the
maximum of 25 marks under the first point, and the marks
will be entered, under their proper heading, in the second
column of the card. The exhibit will next be examined for the
other points set forth in paragraph 393, the marks being ex-
tended in their proper columns accordingly. Any sections that
come short of the requirements will lose marks proportionally.
The judge will then proceed with the remaining exhibits, and
mark them as they deserve. The points of excellence required
in extracted honey, beeswax, mead, and vinegar have already
been described (393), with the marks to be assigned. When
judging extracted honey for density, or thickness, the jars
should be inverted, and the rising of the air bubbles should
be accurately timed, the highest marks being awarded to the
exhibit in which the air bubbles rise slowest, having regard
to the air space in each jar. Weight should be judged by the
scales; 1 lb. bottles should contain 16 oz. of honey, short
weights being penalised, and extra weights deriving no advan-
tage. “Granulated honey” should be granulated, and not
merely thickened. For the judging of wax the magnifying

220 THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

glass will be useful. Supers of frames and crates of sections
should be carefully scrutinized for signs of cleaning and of
substitution of frames from other supers or of sections from
other crates, and, assuming that the conditions laid down
(393) apply, any exhibits which shows signs of having been
improperly manipulated for the show bench, should be dis-
qualified. Mead should be well flavoured and clear, and
should be securely corked in glass bottles, bearing suitable
labels. Vinegar should show similar qualities, and should be
put up in clear glass bottles, well corked and labelled. When
all the exhibits in any class shall have been marked for their
various points, the judge should tot the marks for each
exhibitor in that class, and enter the totals in the column
provided for that purpose; above these will appear the total
maximum marks obtainable, and the last column will announce
the awards—rst, 2nd, 3rd, V.H.C., H.C., C., according to the
rules of the particular show. Thus the exhibitor will receive
an award according to the total of his marks, and the judge
himself will not know the results until he has made his tots;
in the margin he will enter any special remarks upon any
exhibit, as he may think desirable. Judge’s cards, embodying
the above details, have been published by, and may be obtained
from the office of the Irish Bee Journal, Lough Rynn, R.S.O.,
Co. Leitrim. When such cards have been completed, signed
by the judge, and placed in position on, or over, the exhibits,
the competitors and the general public can see in what respects
the several exhibits have been successful, or the reverse, and
the show becomes, not only a means of awarding, or gaining,
prizes, but also an object lesson in the science and practice of
Beekeeping, with educational advantages of great use and
importance.

BEL FLOWERS AND PLAN'S Q21

CHAPTER XXXIV.
BEE FLOWERS AND PLANTS.

Spring.—Among the garden flowers which are most useful
to bees are those which bloom before the field flowers, and
after the Clover and Lime:—of the former, Aconite, Crocus,
Hellebore, Scilla, White Rock, and Aubretias, in which bees
revel during every sunny hour from January to April; and
Limanthes Douglasii, a prime favourite in May. Of trees and
shrubs, Pyrus Japonica, Cotoneaster, Box, Sally, Gorse, Willow,
Broom, Ribes Rubra, and Gooseberry yield largely in the open-
ing months of the year, and are followed by Sycamore, Haw-
thorn, and fruit trees, which usher in the honey flow, and
usually give bees continual employment until White Clover
and Sainfoin begin to yield. Of the foregoing, those which
produce honey in quantity, and of a distinct type are:—
Sycamore—honey heavy, somewhat green in tint, and lacking
in flavour. Hawthorn—honey heavy, amber coloured, flavour
and aroma delicious. Fruit trees—honey excellent, in colour
and consistency resembling that from Sycamore.

Summer.—The main honey flow, which occurs in summer, is
from White Clover and Sainfoin, commencing about the begin-
ning of June and continuing for about amonth. Ragweed also
yields at this time. Then the Lime carries on the season until
the end of July, which terminates the honey flow except in
heather districts. White Clover and Sainfoin yield the thinnest
and lightest coloured honey, of a‘most agreeable and delicate
flavour. Ragweed, which grows in profusion all the time of
White Clover, gives a most disagreeable honey, and often spoils
that gathered at the same time from Clover; its honey is rank
and coarse like the flower, and has an objectionable aroma.
Lime gives a heavier honey than that from Clover, and of a
much deeper hue, the cappings of the combs being straw
colour. Between the Lime and Heather, Saxifrage, Poppy,
Borage, Mignonette, Canterbury Bells, etc., provide good
forage for bees. Blackhead (Centaurea Nigra) blooms at the
same time as heather, and, being a prolific source of nectar,
is often preferred by bees. Its honey is thin, of a rich amber
colour, and acrid in flavour. Heather honey is quite distinct
from any other; its colour is deep, often approaching purple;
and it crystallises to am unattractive brown. Its flavour is rich and

THE PRACTICAL BEE GUIDE.

strong ; and its consistency is so thick as to defy the powers of
an extractor. Ling Heather (Erica vulgaris) (Fig. 118, @) is
the most abundant yielder. Its height seldom exceeds one
foot; its leaves are tiny green; and its flowers also are small,
pale pink, varying to deep purple, or white. Bell Heather
(Lrica cinerea) (Fig. 118, 6) is more bushy than the former; its
leaves are smaller, and its flowers are a reddish purple.
Cross-leaved Heather (Erica tetralix) (Fig. 118, ¢) is short,
with small leaves, growing in fours, crossways, up the stem ;
its flowers grow in clusters of from five to twelve at the top of

Big. 118.
HEATHER BLOOMS.
a. Eriea vulgaris (Ling Heather); b. Hrica cinerea (Bell Heather); ¢. Erica
tetralix (Cross-leaved Heather).

the stem; the bells are pale pink in colour, edged with four
pointed teeth: this heather flourishes only on damp bog land,
and is of little value as a honey producer. In late summer,
the Blackberry attracts bees to the hedgerows, and yields large
quantities cf honey and pollen.

Autumn.—lvy, which, if left to grow of its own sweet will
on walls and trees, blooms profusely in October, is eagerly
sought after on sunny days. The honey it yields is very
inferior, but it makes a useful addition to winter stores in the

hives.

BEE FLOWERS AND PLANTS. 923

COMPARATIVE LIST OF BEE PLANTS AND FLOWERS.
(Yield :—G, good ; M, medium ; P, poor.)

Date
For For
NAME. Pollen | Honey.
From To.

Aconite, ee an Be oa January April P M
Box on ou zs a February March G M
Crocus ae oie at a cf April G P
Dandelion .. OF AG ore rh October G P
Hazel a ase as as Hh March G Nil.
Hellebore .. aa on ae fy May G M
Sedum Major we ae aS 7) April M G
Snowdrop .. ee as aia 5p March P M
Aubrietias .. ee an oe March July P M
Barberry... oe ae es 5 April G p
Cotoneaster ate re aS H May P M
Gorse ne ca ae a rp June r M
Mallow as ae Bn An FA rs G M
Poppies, Single... a ae a Bs t Nil.
Ribes Ube rat aa Me Fa May M +
Sallow ts 8D ae $3 G G
Scilla on a oa rb 5h P G
Violet, Sw eet ene ay tb a “ P +
Wallflower, aA Re a es ay M G
White Rock me fe ats 39 June P M
Willow ee ve eo ne AN May x +
Cherry bie ty ee a April 55) t M
Gooseberry 5c 6h Fan op a P M
Pyrus Japonica .. a ok ” June M M
Pear.. fe & ee ae py May M M
Plum aie ove fa as June M M
Sycamore .. te 4 ae rh May M G
Apple ihe ae iia a May June M G
Bird Cherry ae a ate % ” M M
Broom oe ap Pee oe s 35 t P
Cabbage, .. od as ae a July G M
Hawthorn .. is aes fir 53 June M $
Holly oe an o July M ct
Limanthes Douglai asii ah AS 5 June M +
Mignonette us HES a November G M
Ragweed .. an us an ‘ August + t
Raspberry .. oe i we B June M G
Strawberry are a fie RS 3 x M
White Clover AG xe a. rH) July M +
Bokhara Clover .. wee June September M G
Borage ae ae ai a * November M G
Buckwheat pe a ae es July P t
Charlock .. ae Re ee 5 M G
French Honeysuckle a ae 33 September G G
Mustard . ae 50 ‘i August M +
Sainfoin .. Bs Ae 3 a ® M x
Thistle 20 fe, a rie 1 Bo M M
Vetch ae ae fa » ” M 3
Blackhead | ae ae He July September M +
Lime ho 5 ag H August M G
Meadowsweet vs a oe ay ae P M
Saxifrage .. ie ite is ” ” M M
Thyme at a0 re on ” 73 M G
Blackberry ae Fi 8 A September G M
Heather .. 50 Me wo Ff A P +
Poppy ee é a ” ” G P
Cai uey “Bells |. of August November G P
Devils ee Succisa) ” September M M
Ivy . He October December M M

INDEX.

—_o—

(The Figures denote the pages).

Abdomen, 23.

Aconite, 221, 223.

Adulteration’ of Wax, 35, 61.

a are 10, 123; prevention of

Air-space ‘between guive walls, 45.

Air vesicles, 21,

Alighting board, re

American-cloth ‘sheet, 51.

Anatomy of Bee—External skeleton,
head, simple eyes, compound eyes,
15; ‘antenne, organs of mouth, 17 ;
thorax, 18 ; legs, 19 ; feet, 20; wings,
spiracles, and trachew, 21; abdomen,
honey-sac, sting, 23; palpi, queen’s
sting, organs of drone, 25; organs
of queen, 27,

Anemone, 5.

Antenne, 17.

Ants, 34, 202.

Apiary, arranging an, 80, 159; select-
ing position for, 80; house, 82.

Appliance press, 82.

Artificial pollen, 111, 182.

Artificial swarming, 126- 129, 167, 194.

Asperser, 90.

Aubrietias, 221, 223

Automatic transfer of bees, 138.

Autumn, the bee in, 13; feeding, 180;
syrup, 181; general management,
209; flowers, 221-223.

Balling the queen, 165.

Bean, 25.

Bee, classification of, 1; in spring, 4;
summer, 7 ; autumn and winter, 13;
anatomy of, 15-29 ; flight of, 21, 85;
diseases, 185-201.

Bee dress for ladies, 69, 97.

Bee escapes, 46, 100, 150-153.

Bee flowers and plants, 221-223.

Bee food, recipes, 183-184c.

Bee gloves, 70, 71; use of, 70, 96, 130.

Bee-keeping, ancient, 76 ; modern, 76;
delightful occupation, 77 ; profitable,
79; commencing, 83-91.

Bee literature, 90, 91, 209.

Bee riser what constitutes a, 93,

Bee moth, 203.

Bee pest (foul brood), 188-200. r

Bee products, 33-39, 200, exhibiting
and judging, 210-220.

Bee space, 43, 51, 53, 54, 55, 145,

Bee stings, 24, 25, 93, 95, 96; treat-
ment of, 97; and rheumatism, 98 ;
protection, 96, 1380.

Bee veils, 69, 96, 130.

Bees, natural history of, 1-14; clean-
liness of, 4, 6; as fertilisers, 5, 33,
38 ; unselfishness of, 7; different
races of, 30-32 ; Black or Natives,
Ttalians or Ligurians, Carniolans, 30,
102; Caucasians, 32; Cyprians,
31, 102; Syrians, 31, 102, 113;
Giant, Common East-Indian, Dwart
East- -Indian, Ha Stingless, Sand,
Leaf-cutter, ; feeding, 64, 178-
184¢ ; Seeding and handling, 67,
virtues and beauties of, 76; near
dwellings, 80 ; purchasing 83; value
of, 83 ; moving, 84-87 ; weight of, 85;
driven, 88; driving, 88 ; uniting, 90,
135-136 ; fearlessness of, 93 ; swarm-
ing harmless, 94; removing from
combs, 105 ; metamorphosis of, 117 ;
hiving, 130-134; transferring, 136-
138 ; robbing and fighting, 175-177 ;
diseases of, 185-200 ; enemies of, 202-
204; wintering. 205-207; general
management of, 208-209. See also
queen, workers, drones.

Beeswax, see Wax.

Birds as enemies of bees, 202.

Bi-sulphite of carbon, 194, 202,

Black, or Native Bees, 30, 102.

Blackberry, 14, 223

Black brood, 187.

Blackhead, 921, 223,

Blind Louse, 203.

Borage. 221, 223.

Box, 221, 223.

Braula ceca, 203.

Breeding, begins, 4, 108; stimulating
in spring, 110, 139; stimulating in
autumn, 117; nursing, 109, 112, 114,
115 ; controlling drone rearing, 113,
125; limiting queen rearing, 126;
ceases, 117 ; metamorphosis, 117.

Brood, worker, 109; spreading the,
111, 139; drone, 112; queen, 118, 115.

Broom, 221, 223.

Cages for queens, 128, 134, 166.
Candy, soft, 184, 205 ; ; flour, 184b, 206.
Cane sugar, 33, 179,

Canterbury belis, oe, 223,

INDEX. 925

Cappings of cells, 34, 37, 190, 198.

Carbolic acid, 67, 100, 130; cloth, 67,
95, 99, 100, 201; feather, 101, 110.

©arniolan bees, : 30, "102.

Casts, 10, 123; preventing, 126, 134.

Caucasian bees, 32.

Cells, worker, 35; drone, 35, 104, 112;
hexagonal, 35; transitional, 36;
queen, 37, 105, 113; use of for stor-
ing, 37 ; cappings of, 34, 37 ; number
in comb of standard frame, 108 ; foul
brood, 189.

Chaff, between hive walls, 45 ; cushion,

Cheshire, 63, Dele 197.

Chilled brood, 187.

Classification of honey bee, 1

“* Claustral”’ Detention Chamber, 52.

Claws, 20.

Cleaning and Brae hives, 136,
188, 192, 194, Be 201, 208.

Clover, ie 221-39

Colon, 23.

Colour of hives, 81, 159.

Comb, building, 5, 37; described, 35,
104 ; value of, 35, 37, 61; stand, 99 ;
box, 99, 100; repaired, 138 ; feeding
for building, 181.

Comb-foundation (see Foundation).

Combs, melting into wax, 72-75, 157,

215-216 ; removing bees from, 105;
turning, 106; cleaning extracted,
152, 156

Condemned bees, 88.
Cone escape, 46, 100, 150.
Corbicule, a 19) 38.

Cork Dust, 45, 206.
Cotoneaster, 231, 228.

Crate, 54; divisional, 55, 148 ; observa-
tory, 56; hanging, 56, 145, 148.
Crates, storing, 139; preparing, 140;

putting on, 143; tiering, 146; re-
moving, 147, 150-153 ; travelling, 171,
Cream of tartar in bee-food, 184.
Crocus, 5, 111, 221, 223.
Crystallised honey, 169, 173, 174, 210
Currant, 6
Cyanide of potassium, 203.
Cyprian bees, 31, 102.

Damp roofs, 46, 207.

Dandelion, 5, 23.

Dead bees, removal of, 206, 208, 209.

Differential Diagnosis, 200.

Digestive system, 22.

Diseases, 185; Examining for, 84;
dysentery, 185; paralysis, 186;
chilled brood, 187; black brood,
187; pickled brood, 188; _ foul
brood, 188-198; ‘Isle of Wight
Disease,” 185, 198; differential
diagnosis, 200; recipes for treat-
ment, 201.

Division board, 49-50.

Dorsal plates, 23.

Double rabbet, 45.

Double walls, 45.

Doubling, 148.

Dress for lady bee-keepers, 97.
Driving, bees, 88; irons, 89; box, 89.
Drone-breeding queens, 109.

Drone cells, 35, 104, 112.

Drones, described, 3; their brief life, 3 ;

death, 3, 13, 27; eyes, 11; tongue,
18; SegE, 21; fertility, 12, 27;
organs, dwarf, 909.

Ductus rea 25.
Dummy, 49-50.
Dysentery, 185, 206.
Dzierzon, 28, 42.

Earwigs in hives, 202.
East-Indian bees, common, 31; dwarf,

31.

Eggs, fertilisation of, 28; age of, 105.

Enemies of bees, 202.

Entrances, 45; reducing, 176, 179;
examining, 206, 208, 209; enlarging,
125, 208.

Epipharynx, 17.

Examinations for experts’ certificates,

0.
Examining combs, 103;

stocks, 159,
208; roofs, 209.
Excluder, 57; use of, 145, 148.
Exhibiting bee products, 210-218.
Extracting, honey, 154, 214-215; wax,
157, 216.
Extractors, honey, 72; wax, 74.
Eyes of bees, simple and compound,
15; drones, 11, 15; workers, 15;
queens, 15,

“Federation’”’ hive, 44; dummy,
50; bee-escape, 152.

Feeders, 64-66.

Feeding, 64, 178; spring stimulative,
110, 179; artificial pollen, 111:
objects of, 178; precautions, 179;
summer, 180; autumn, 180; quan-
tity of food required, 180; winter,
181, 205; for comb building, 181;
in skeps, 182; Recipes, 183-184c.

Feet, 20.

Tertilisation, of egg, 28; of queen, 2,
11, 25, 28.

Fertility, of queen, 2, 4, 12, 28, 29,
108, 109; of drone, 12, 27.

Fighting, 175.

Floor-board, 44; moveable, a sine qua
non, 192,

Flowers and plants, 221-223.

Follower, 56, 140-141.

Food, see Feeding.

Formalin, aaa ea for foui
brood, 192,

Foul brood, "Be ios.

Foundation, fixing in frames, 52, 62,
143; in sections, 54, 140-142; use

226 INDEX.

of, 59, 113, 125 ; invention of, 60;
varieties of, 60; advantages of,
60; adulteration of, 61; testing,
62; change of colour, 62; quantity
Tequired, 62; wiring, 63, 143.

Frames, standard, 51; various, 52;
lifting, 99; turning, 106; preparing,
142; wiring, 142.

Fruit trees, 221-223.

Galleria cereana, 203.
General management,
month, 208-209.

Giant bees, 31.
Glens, poison, 25; wax, 35.

Gloves, use of, 70, 96, 130; various, 71.
Gooseberry, 321, 233.

Gorse, 5, 221, 223,

Granulation ot honey, 169, 173, 174.

work for the

5.

Heather, 14, 221-223 ;
212, 215, 22, 222.
Heddon methods, oh3t 138b.

Hellebore, 221,
Hive, occupants ae ‘L;
6

honey, 156, 210,

sanitation in,

Hives ancient, 40; Skep, 41;
moveable comb, 41-43; internal
measurements, 43; timber used

in, 44; ‘‘ Federation,” 44; floor-
board, "44; ventilator, 44, 46 body

box, 45 ;: 1 ft, 45; roof, 46, 207;
W.B.C., 46; Observatory, 47;
“TB. Nee 1909,” 48; ‘‘ Hibernian,’

49; position of, in apiary, 81, 159 ;
colour of oe 159 ; levelling, 81, 130 ;
stands, nucleus, 159 ; cleaning
and Gitinfectine 194, 196, 201.
Hiving bees, 130-— 134; board, 130,
133, 135, 136, 195.
Honey, described, 33, 221-222 ; gather-

ing and storing, 18, 335 water in,
34; as food, 34; quantity used in
wax production, 35, 37; adultera-

tion of, 39; surplus, ” 139; ex-
tracted more ” profitable than ‘comb,
139; extracting, 72, 154, 214, 215;
straining and ripening, 156, 214;
marketing, 169-174; Home, 169 ; im-
ports, 169; storing, 169 ; grading,
170, 212; bottling, 173, 214-215 ;
packing, 174; crystallised, 169, 173,
174; for exhibition, 210-216.

Honey- -Comb (see Comb).

Honey Dew, 34.

Honey extractor, 72,154; invention of,
72; uncapping knife, 73, 154;
strainer and ripener, 73.

Honey flow, 139, 143.

Honey jars, 173.

Honey labels, 174.

Honey press, 74, 156

Honey sac, 23, 33.

Honey tins, 174,

Huber, 41, 63, 77, 115, 116, 166.

Tleum, 23.
In-breeding avoided in nature, 120.
Intestines, 23.
Introducing queens, 165-168.
TrisH BEE JOURNAL, 91, 209.
Irish Bee-Keepers’ ‘Association, exa-
minations, 70.
“Isle of Wight Disease,’ 185, 198.
Ttalion bees, 30, 102.
Ivy, 14, 222, 223,

Jars for honey, 173, 215.
Judging bee products, 218.

Labels for honey, etc., 174, 215 218.
Labial palpi, 18.

Labium, 17.

Labrum, 17.

Langstroth, 42, 60, 72, 95.

Larve, age of, 109.

Laying workers, 12, 31, 115;

Leafcutter bees, 32

Legs, 19.

Leuckart, 114.

Lifting frames, 99.

Ligurian bees, 30, 102.
Limanthes Douglasii, 221, 223.
Lime, 221, 223.

Lingua, 18.

Loss of Queens, 158.
Lubbock, 34.

Maeterlinck, 95, 166.

Maggot (stylops), 2038.

Mandibles, 17.

Manipulating, 99.

Marketing honey, 169-174.

Maxille, 17

Maxillary palpi, 17.

Mead, for exhibition, 217.

Measures, 184c.

Medicated bee-food, 183-184b, 188,

Mehring, 60, 72.

Mentum, 18.

Mice, 202.

Mignonette, 221, 223.

Modern bee- -keeping, 76, 77.
Month, Work for the, "208-209.
Mouth, organs, 17.
Moveable-comb hiv e (See Hives).
Moving bees, 84,

Mysterious Influence, The, 7.

Naphthaline, 191, 202.
Bapeener -Beta solution, 183-184b,

Natural history of bees, 1-14.
Natural swarming, 7-10, 118-126.
Meenas 33; how gathered, 3, 5, 18,

Nuclei, 162-165.
Nucleus hives, 159.

removing

INDEX.

Gsophagus, 23.
Ovaries of queen and workers, 27, 28.
Oviducis of queen, 27, 28

Packing bees for transport, 84-87.
Packing honey—comb, 171; extracted,
173.

Palpi, 17, 18, 25.
Paraglosse, 18.

Paralysis, 186.

Parasites, 203.
Parthenogenesis, 11, 28.
Past and present, 76.

Pea flour, 111, 184b.

Pear, 223.

Petiole, 23.

Petroleum jelly, 99, 100, 143.
Pickled brood, 188.

Pine, seasoned, for hives, 44.
Pipe cover, queen cage, 167.

Planta,

Pliny, 40.

Pollen, 3, 5, 33, 38; how gathered.
19, 38; artificial, 111, 182

Pollen mite, 203.

Poppy, 221, 223.

Porter bee escape, 152.

Prevention of Swarming, 124-126.
Profitable industry. Bee-keeping a, 79.
Propolis, e,. a? how gathered, 19, 39.
Pulvillus,

Durbaeiie nena

Pyrus japonica, oot 223.

Queen, described, 2; length of life, 2,
2,115; her fertilisation, 2, 25, 28;
egg-laying powers, 2, 4, 12, 28, 29,
108, 109; virgin queen, 10, 122, 123;
her wedding, 11, 81 ; queen’s tongue,
18; sting, 25; organs, 27; finding
the queen, 103; searching for the,
107; drone-breeding, 109; caging,
134, 136; loss of, 158; old, 158;
defective, 158; “‘balled,” 158,
165; clipping her wings, 121.
Queen’ cages, 128, 134, 166.
Queen cells, 8, 37, 105,113; false, 113 ;
inserting, 162.
Queen excluder, 57, 145, 148, 149.
Queen introduction, 165-168.
Queen larve, nursing, 114.
geen rearing, 8, 158-165; limiting,
Queenlessness, 158; signs of, 159.
Queens per post, sending, 168.
Quilts, 50

Rabbet, Double, 45.

Ragweed, 221, 223.

Reaumur, 77, 203.

Recipes, for bee-food, 183; carbolic
solutions, 201; formalin solutions,

227

Remedies for bee stings, 97.
Re-queening, 196. See queen rearing.
Ribes Rubra, 221, 223.
Ripener, honey, 73, 156
Ripening honey, 73, 156.
Robbing, 64, 154, 175;
175; signs of, 175;
Roots of hives, 46 ;
pair, 207, 208, 209.
Root, A.
Royal jelly, uit

precautions,
treatment, 176.
defective, to re-

Sainfoin, 221, 223.

Sally, 221, 223.

Sand bees, 32.

Saw-dust, 45

Saxifrage, 221, 223.

Scent diffuser, 90.

Scilla, 221, 223.

Secon third, and fourth casts, 117,

Section, the, 53.

Section’ crate. See Crate

Section honey less profitable than

_ extracted honey, 139.

Section travelling crate, 171.

Sections, various makes, 53, 140-141 ;
“bait,” 56, 145, 156; preparing,
140, 211-213; extracting honey from,
156; cleaning, 156; storing, 156;
grading, 170, 212; : glazing, 170, 213:
packing, 171; for éxhibition, 210- -214),

Seminal vesicles, 25.

Separators, 54, 140-141.

Shallow frames, 52.

Sheet and quilts, 50.

Silex, 5.

Simmins, 95, 168.

Skeleton of bee, external, 15.

Skep, the, 41; use of, 41, 131-133;
automatic transfer from, 138;
giving place to moveable-comb hive,
o supering, 150; feeding bees in,

smoker, the, 67, 95, 99; preparing,

Smoking overdone, 102.

Snow, to be removed, 207, 209.

Solar wax extractor, 74, 157.

Spermatheca, queen's, 12, 27, 28.

Spermatophore, 25, 27.

Spermatozoa, 12, 25, 27, 28.

Spiracles, 21.

Spoon, 18.

Spreading the brood, 111, 139.

Spring, the bee in, 4-6; cleaning, 136;
feeding, 179, 183 ; management, 208 ;
flowers, 221-223.

Standard frame, 51;
in, 108.

Stand for combs, 99.

Steam wax extractor, 75, 157.

Stimulative feeding, 110, 117, 161, 179,
208, 209.

Sting, worker’s, 24; queen's, 25, use

, 25, 93, 95; unprovoked use of

number of cells

2238 INDEX.

exceptional, 93; effect of, 96;
treatment of, 97; cure for rheu-
aetien, 98; protection from, 96,

Stingless bees, 32.

Stock, commencing with a, 85.

Stocks, value of, 83; moving, 85;
uniting, 135.

Stomach, chyle, 23; mouth, 23, 33.

Storifying, 148.

Storms, precautions against, 207.

Strainer and Ripener, 73, 156.

Study the subject, 90.

Stylops, 203.

Subduing bees, 92.

Sulphur, 194, 204.

Summer, the’ bee in, 7-12; feeding,
180; general management, 208-209 ;
flowers, 221-223.

Super- box, 57; putting on, 145, remov-
ing, 150-153.

Super-clearers, 151-153, 156 211-212.

Supering, 53, 143-150, 211-212; skeps,
150.

Supers. ae 147, 150-153; for
exhibition, 2

Surplus hae ee 153.

Survival of the unfit, 76.

Swammerdam, 77.

Swarm, 7-10, 119 ; commencing with a,
od value of a, 83, 85,118; catcher,

Swarming, natural, 8, 118, 119; signs
of, 118; delay of, 119; to encourage
clustering, 120; prevention of, 124,
126, 134; ‘fever,’ 124; artificial,
126-129, 167, 194.

Swarms moving, 84; weighing, 85;
sending per post, 85; vagaries of,
119 ; truant, 120; casts, 10, 123, 126,
134; hunger, 123, 175: making for

sale, 128; hiving, 130- 134; feeding,
131, 133 ; retracing, 134 ; separating,
138b.

Sycamore, 6, 221, 223.

Syrian bees, 31, 102, 113.

Syrup for feeding, Tecipes, 183;

scented, 90, 135,

Tarsus, 20.

Testes, 25.

Thorax, 18.

Tibia, 19.

Tin bars for section crates, 55, 141.
Tins for extracted honey, 174.
Tongue, 18.

Trachea, 3.2, 21, 25.

Transferring bees, 136; from skeD
or box, to modern’ hive, 137;
automatic transfer, 138; Heddon

method, 138b,
Uneapping knife, 73.
Uniting bees, 90, 135-136.

Value of combs, 35, 37, 61; of stocks,
83; of swarms, 83, 85, 118.

Vassa deferentia, 25.

Vaseline, 99, 100, 137, 143, 145.

Veils, use of, 69, 96, 130; Lady’ 3, 69;
wire-cloth, 69.

Velum, 19.

Ventilation, 125, 206.

Ventilators, 44, 46, 161,

Ventral plates, 23

Vesicule seminales, 25,

Vinegar, in bee food, 183 ;
hibition, 218.

Virgil, 40, 76.

Wasps, to destroy, 203.

Water for bees, 5, 182, 208.

Water in honey, 34, 182.

Waterproof, making roofs, 207.

Wax, described, 34 ; production, 5,19,
23, 34; honey used i in, 35, 37; paraf:
fio and ceresin, 35, 61’; adulteration,
35, 61; testing for adulteration, 62;
extraction, 74, 157, 216; extr: vetors,
74; solar, "74, 157: steam, hae! Ray fae
for exhibition, 216.

Wax moth, 205.

Weed, E. B,

Wheat flour on ‘bee ey 184b,.

White Clover, 7, 221, 293.

White rock, 21, 223,

White thorn, 6, 221, 223,

Willow, 221, 223.

Wings, 21.

for ex-

Winter, the bee in, 13-14; food, 181,
183 ; passages, 205; general
management, 208-209; flowers,
221-223,

Wintering, 205-209.
Wiring appliances, 63, 142-143 ;
142.

Work for the month, 208-209.

Worker bees, described, 2; their brief
life, 2; work, 2,5; anatomy, 15-25,

Worker cells, 35; size, 35; number in
comb of standard frame, 108.

frames

Zinc bars for section crates, 55, 141,
Zine excluder, 57: use of, 145, 148,
9.

INDEX. 229

TONE BLOCK ILLUSTRATIONS.

——}—_—_

Author, Frontispiece.

Queen, Worker, and Drone, 2.

Queen Cells, 9, 163.

Bee on Clover, 33,

Hives, 41, 42, 48, 47, 48, 49, 160,
207.

Appliances, 45, 49, 50, 54, 55, 56,
57, 63, 65, 66, 67, 69, 70, 75, 81,
82, 85, 89, 90, 99, 100, 151, 152,
167, 168, 170, 171,172, 173, 174, 195,
198, 204, 213.

Claustral Hives, 52B.

Foundation, 59, 60, 63.

I.B.A. Bee Tent, 68.

Examining the Top Crate, 71.

Extractors, 72, 73, 74, 75.

Outbreak of Bee Fever, 78.

Hives on Flags, facing page 80.

Mr. T. Brannigan’s Apiary, facing
page 92.

Subdued Bees on Combs, 92, 94, 108,
164.

Bee Dress for Ladies, 97.

Using the Smoker, 98.

Miss W. Seadon Driving Bees, 99.

Drawing on Carbolic Cloth, 101.
““Thumping ’’ Bees off a Comb, 105.
Clipping Queen’s Wing, 121.
Congestion. Bees Crowded out, 129.
Hiving Bees, 131.
Swarm ina High Tree, 132.
Repaired Comb, 138.
Rescuing Condemned Bees, 1380.
Fixing Foundation in Sections, 140.
Putting on a Crate, 144.
a ae Super Box, 145.
Removing a Crate, 147.
Crates Tiered, 148.
Hive Doubled, 149.
Supering a Skep, 150.
Removing a Frame Super, 151.
Extracting Honey, 155.
Queen Rearing, 164.
Comb infected by Foul Brood, 189.
Diseased Stock, “J.G.D.” Ventilator,
&e., 197.
“Tsle of Wight Disease,’ 199
Hives prepared for Summer and
Winter, 207.

THE C.D.B. HIVE.

EDMONDSON BROTHERS.
‘SUYSBYUNLOVANNVA BAIH 33a

Winner of 10 First Prize Medals.

This Hive was selected by the Congested Districts Board for supply to the
Bee-keepers i1 Donegal and West and South of Ireland, and is the best turned-
out Hive in the British Islands. The internal fittings are eleven standard har
frames, dummy, three quilts, and one crate of sections. The ventilators are
fitted in front with a pair of Cone Escapes, and at back protected with
perforated zinc.

The “1.B.A.”’ ‘‘ Two Crate” and “‘ Cottagers” Hives.
Sections, Foundations, Frames, &c.

10 DAME STREET, DUBLIN.

TAYLOR’S MAKE OF ENGLISH
Weed Foundations

Made on a genuine WEED MACHINE.

1to 4Ib 5 to 201b. 20 to 56lb. 1 ewt.

Broop, 8 Sheetstolb. .. 2/4 Te 2/3 60 2/2 3 2/1
BRooD, 9 and 10 Sheets to Ib. 2/5 ou 24 oO 2/3 Ace ede
THIN WoRKER BROOD OR DRONE

BASE FOR SHALLOW FRAMES 2/5 ore 2/4 ms 2/3 aoe ea
THIN SUPER... da Go 2/9 3 2/8 ete 2/7 ee)
EXTRA THIN SUPER : 3/- auc 2/11 ue 2/10 ~. 2/9
SUPER, cut in Squares to Fit Sections 3/1 3/- : 2/11 -. 2/10

SPECIAL SIZES, 1d. Ib. extra.
Customers’ Wax Cleared and Sterilized and made into Weed Brood, 6d. per Ib.
Thin Brood, 8d. Super 1/-
Super for Shallow Frames. Prices as Thin Super.

Large Illustrated Catalogue, free on application, includes
several pages of instructive matter on Bees and Bee-Keeping ; also
acomplete BEE-KEEPERS’ CALENDAR. Nearly 200 Illustrations.

Sole Licensee for Wilkes’ Patent Feeder.

Carriage Paid to any Station in Ireland on £2 Orders as per
Conditions in Catalogue.

E- . | e TAY LO R, Sone SM canrectares:

WELWYN, HERTS.
London and Johannesburg, S. Africa,

Appliances

Sections, Frames,
Foundations,
Smokers, &c.
= WRITE FOR LIST.
Superior Garden
; and Farm Seeds.

(Juality and Germination
Guaranteed.

CATALOGUES POST FREE.

W. TAIT & CO., Seedsmen,
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Comb Foundation

As Manufactured by C. DADANT & SON, is unequalled. Sales last year
reached the enormous total of 170,000 Ibs. We are sole agents for this
famous product in this country.

Sample |b., in box, post paid—Brood, 2/6; Super, 3/-. P.O.—Dundee or Wormit.
We make and supply everything for BEEKEEPERS.
Send for our 72-page Catalogue, post free on application.
*,* TO THE TRADE ONLY.
Being large importers of American goods, we are able to quote favourable terms
for quantities, Only the highest quality of goods stocked.

Makers of’ Gem Incubators and Rearers.
The Irish 6 C.D.B.’’ as made by us, is of superior quality and hand

finished. Price, complete with dummy, 11
frames, and 1 crate of sections, 15/6.

R. STEELE & BRODIE,

Wormit Works, Dundee.

Wear the “ Burkitt Bee Glove,”’

Recommended by all Bee Experts.

EDWARD REYNOLDS, Glove Maker, Andover, Hants.

See pALDWINS arriiances. |
“B.D.C.” Hives, from 12/-. Asyulikit Hives, 12/-
10 Frames and 2 Dummies to each.

ustrated List
Mares by Post. THE APIARY, BROMLEY, KENT.
THERE IS NOTHING LIKE THE NATIVE

for these countries, and

Native Bees are My Speciality.
Try my Noted Strain of Good Honey Gatherers,
QUEENS- Virgins and Fertilized. SWARMS, NUCLEI, &c.

Send a Post Card for Prices and Particulars to

WwW. M OQ R Ce) NJ YY * Expert, Trish Beekeepers’ Association,

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CHARTERS BEES AND QUEENS.

Specially selected and bred for their hard-working and Honey-gathering qualities.
They are of quiet disposition, and are the result of many years careful breeding.
My JET BLACK STRAIN are the purest English, not tainted in the least with
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resisting disease.
BLACK ENGLISH the original native bee. HYBRIDS of quiet disposition.
FOUL BROOD resisted by these hardy East Coast Bees.
HONEY IN LARGE OR SMALL QUANTITIES.
Price List for Queens, Swarms, Stocks, Nuclei, &.

CHARTER, TAITINGSTONE, IPSWIGH.
JAMES LEE & SON,

Wholesale and Retail Manufacturers.
Bee Hives & Appliances. Catalogues & Estimates Free.

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Support Home Industry. je LRISH COAL.

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BEE HIVES. APPLIANCES.

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and all Beekeepers’ Appliances.

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THE
Irish Beekeepers’ Association.

FOUNDED 1881.

PRESIDENT: LORD ARDILAUN.

Vice-Presidents:
THE COUNTESS OF ABERDEEN; ANTHONY TRAILL, Esq., LL.D.,
M.D., Provost of Trinity College; MISS RUTHERFOORD.

Committee (1910).

REV. CANON BERESFORD, M.A. T. J. CROWE.

REV. J. G. DIGGES, M.A. A. GRACIE.

REV. P. B. JOHNSON, M.A. T. M‘GRATH.

REV. P. KAVANAGH, C.C. JAS. MOORE.

REV. J. MEEHAN, C.C. W. MORONY.

ae S. LYLE ORR. BARONESS PROCHAZKA.
. A. ANDERSON. E. A. STOPFORD.

E BEAMISH.

The Irish Beekeepers’ Association was established in 1881, with the
twofold object of advocating the more humane and intelligent treatment
of the Honey Bee, and of bettering the condition of the cottagers of
kee by the encouragement, improvement, and advancement of Bee

ulture

The Aesociation sends to Shows, etc., all over Ireland, its Bee
Exhibition Tents in the charge of Experts who give practical instruction
in Modern Beekeeping. Assistance is given in organising local Associa-
tions of Beekeepers.

Examinations are held and Expert Certificates (3rd, 2nd and 1st
Class) are issued by the Association.

Experts are sent out as Qualified Teachers and Inspectors of Apiaries.
Extractor and accessories are lent to members.

Assistance is given to members in the marketing of honey and the
management of their stocks.

A Conversazione, for members and friends, is held yearly in “ Spring
Show ” week.

The IRISH BEE JOURNAL is the Official Organ of the Association.

Annual Subscription, 5/-; for Tenant Farmers, 2/6;
for Cottagers, I/*; for Affiliated Societies, 5/-.

M. H. READ, Hon. Sec., Coolgrena, Terenure, Dublin.

Department of Agriculture & Technical

Instruction for Ireland.

————— & —————

ie Scheme (No. 14) of Instruction in Horti-
culture and the Management of Bees is in

operation in most of the counties in Ireland.

Beekeepers desiring visits from the Local
lixpert should apply to the Secretary of the County
Committee of Agriculture, whose offices are

usually at the Courthouse in the County Town.

Copies of the above Schemes and of the Regula-
tions issued under the Bee Pest Prevention (Ireland)
Act, 1908, can be had free on application to the
Offices of the Department, Upper Merrion Street,
Dublin.

Irish Agricultural Organisation Society, Limited

(Founded by Sir Horace Plunkett in 1894.)

OBJECTS.
To teach the principles of co-operative organisation to farmers and
others in Ireland in order that Ireland may hold its proper place among
those countries whose peoples are organised for agricultural and
industrial purposes.
The I.A.0.S. is non-political and non-sectarian.
DEMOCRATIC CONSTITUTION.

The LA.0.8S. is supported by voluntary contributions from its
affiliated Societies, by subscriptions from their members, and by funds
supplied by well-wishers of Ireland.

It is governed by a Committee, of which five-sixths are representative
of and elected by the eer Societies.

WHAT THE 1.A.0.S. HAS ACCOMPLISHED.

It has organised over 900 Societies.

These Societies have a membership of 100,000.

Their combined annual business turnover now exceeds £2,500,000.

The I.A.0.8, has spent upwards of £100,000 on this work.

COMMITTEE AND OFFICERS, 1910.
President:
The Right Honourable Sir Horace Plunkett, F.R.S., K.C.V.0., D.C.L., &e.
Vice-President:
The Rev. T. A. Finlay, S.J., M.A., F.N.U.I.
Committee:
Leinster--The Very Rev. M. Canon Barry, D.D., Ballyragget.
Colonel N. T. Everard, H.M.L., Navan.
Captain Loftus A. Bryan, D.L., Enniscorthy.
Mr. R. A. Latta, Ferns.
Ulster—— Mr. Harold Barbour, M.A., Lisburn.
Mr. Bernard Brady, Cootehill.
The Rev. E. F. Campbell, M.A., Killyman.
Mr. Patrick Whelan, Greenan’s Cross.
Munster—Mr. James Byrne, J.P., Wallstown.
Mr. T. M. English, Pallasgreen.
Mr. P. P. Moloney, Tipperary.
Mr. Hugh P. Ryan, Thurles.
eonnauaht. Mr. A. J. Crichton, Ballysodare.
Thomas de Lacy, Collooney.
me Rev. J. G. Digges, M.A., Mohill.
Major J. F. Murphy, Boyle.
Co-opted Members’ and Subscribers’ Representatives:

The Lord relat [Seis of Brandon, K.P; Messrs. Dermod O’Brien,

Randal K. Moore, D.L.; A. Stopford, Sir Henry Grattan Bellew, Bart.,
D.L.; Messrs. W. J Were M.B.; T. Y. Chambers and W. #. Holmes.
‘Secretary:
Mr. R. A. Anderson.

Offices:

The Plunkett House, Dublin.
Auditors:

Messrs. Craig, Gardner & Co., Dublin.

Bankers:

The Bank of Ireland, Dublin.

Full particulars regarding every kind of agricultural co-operative
society may be had gratis on application to the secretary. Leaflets will
also be supplied free of charge.

“The Irish Homestead,” the organ of the movement. A weekly
paper of general interest for farmers. Price 1d. Annual subscription,
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; V gpries bound in half-calf 1bs., carriage paid. The early issues out
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The Irish Bee Journal.

Established 1901,

Official Organ cf the frish and Affiliated, the Croydon, and the
Perthshire, Beekeepers’ Associations.

WRITTEN BY BEEKEEPERS FOR BEEKEEPERS,
Edited by REW. J. G. DIGGES, M.A.,
Author of this Guide,

Expert, and Member of the Examining Board, Irish Beekeepers’
Association.

Received with enthusiastic approval and congratulations at home

and abroad. .
A steady increase of Subscribers monthly, since the start. .
Circulates widely in Creat Britain, Belgium, France, Germany, United

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t. READ A FEW COMMENTS :—

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“Contains very valuable technical instruction.’—Saturday Herald.
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“Affords much encouragement and information.’—L. WHITILE, Ce.
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“Becomes even more interesting as it advances in years.’’—W. A.
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with so much interest.”—Editor, American Bee-keeper.

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From the Office, Lough Rynn, R.S.0., Co. Leitrim d 1
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GRANULATED (White). LUMP (Cut Loaf).

BELFAST & ORIENTAL TEA CO.,
(Proprietors—ANNE LYNCH & CO.),
axete, 6 Westland Row, Dublin.

Write for Samples of nur CELEBRATED TEAS, 1/6, 1/8, 1/10, 2/=, 2/4,
2/6, 2/8 per Ib. 5 Ibs. post free.

“Perfect”
Dairy Specialities are
Right in Quality and Price.

<GT DAIRY MACHINE
perF DUBLIN. 8. LTD-

AGENTS for

“Alfa Laval"? Cream Separators,

“ Astra’ and “ Simplex’’ Combined Churns
and Butterworkers,

Genuine “ Gerber” Butyrometers for Testing
Milk,

“Hall’s” Refrigerating Machines.

‘‘Morton’s” Engines, Pasteurizers, Milk
Cans of every description, Milk Strainers,
Measures, Dairy Scales, Butter Prints,
Thermometers, and Dairy Machinery
and Utensils of every kind, suitable
for Large Creameries, Dairies, and
Farmers.

Catalogues sent free to any address. Send for one now.

Dairy Supply Co., Ltd.
42 Chichester St., Belfast.

The Sunny South
Health ad Pleasure.

Tourist Season, Ist May to 3Ist October.

Tourist Tickets, Combined Rail and Hotel
Tickets, Week-end Tickets, Day
Trip Tickets, to

KILLARNEY, PARKNASILLA,

CARAGH LAKE, WATERVILLE,
KENMARE, VALENCIA, ROCK OF
CASHEL, and SHANNON LAKES.

HOTELS under the Management of the Company at
Kenmare, Killarney, Parknasilla, Caragh Lake and
Waterville.

‘‘T should like to assure everyone that the accommodation at the
Hotels in the South and West of Ireland which I have just visited,
is absolutely as good as you can get in any country in the
world.” —EARL CADOGAN.

Express Corridor Trains, Magnificent Scenery, and
finest possible Coaching, Boating, Fishing, Golfing,
Shooting, Bathing and Cycling.

New Route between Ireland and England via Rosslare
and Fishguard. Turbine Steamers, Short Sea Passage.
Express Train Service.

Please write to the Superintendent of the Line, Kingsbridge Station,
Dublin, for full particulars as to Routes, Tours and Farcs.

C. H. DENT, General Manager.

Creat Northern Railway (Ireland).

The Creat Northern of Ireland is the Mail and Express Route,
England with Belfast and the North of Ireland,
via Holyhead and Kingstown.

Trains also run in connection with the Express Services via Holyhead
and Dublin (North Wall), and Holyhead and Creenore.

Breakfast and Dining Cars are run between Dublin and Belfast, and
between Belfast and Greenore.

MOUNTAIN, LOUCH, RIVER, AND SEA. COLFINC, FISHING,
COACHING, CYCLING.

CENTRES OF RESORT.
BUNDORAN (on the Atlantic Coast)—Famed Health Resort; within easy
reach are Loughs Melvin and Erne. Sea Bathing. Golf
(18-hole course). Fishing.

ROSAPENNA—Donegal Highlands: Mountain and Lake Scenery, Golf
(18-hole course). Fishing.

PORTSALON sed of Lough Swilly)—Fishing and Boating. Golf (18-hole
course).

NEWCASTLE—Famed Golfing Resort (18-hole course). Direct service by
the new route via Ballyroney.

ROSTREVOR and WARRENPOINT—On Carlingford Lough. Mourne
Mountain District. Balmy and restorative climate.

BOYNE VALLEY—Sylvan, Historical, and Antiquarian districts.
ENNISKILLEN—Island town. Lake Fishing, Boating, &c.
DONECAL, CLENTIES, KILLYBECS, LETTERKENNY, &c..

The opening of the new line from Strabane to Letterkenny, via
Raphoe, has shortened the distance, and facilitated greatly the access
to Portsalon, Rosapenna, Gweedore, and the County Donegal. By it the
loss of time and expense of driving across Londonderry’ is avoided.

The Company’s Guide to Donegal, entitled ‘“ Picturesque Donegal,”
contains fuli information as to the Health Resorts of Donegal, and
information for Sportsmen as to Fishing, Golfing, Shooting, &c. Copies
(price 28. 6d. each) can be obtained from the Superintendent of the
Line, Amiens Street Terminus, Dublin, from. whom time-tables and
tourist literature can also be obtained on application.

HOTELS.—The Company own and manage Hotels at Bundoran, Rostrevor

and Warrenpoint. (The Bundoran Hotel is closed for the Winter
Season.)

HENRY PLEWS, General Manager.
Dublin, 1910.

The Cavan & Leitrim
Railway

Forms a connecting link between the Great Northern Railway of Ireland
at Belturbet. Co. Cavan, and the Midland Great Western Railway at
Dromod, Co. Leitrim, having a branch from Ballinamore to Drumshambo
and Arigna (the latter Station being within 3 miles of the Coal and
Iron, etc., Mines). This is the quickest and most convenient route for
Tourists and others travelling to and from the celebrated Swanlinbar
Spas. These Spas are Sulphur and Iron, and have been noted for nearly
two centuries for their health-giving properties. During the Summer
months there is a Car Service between Bawnboy Road and Swanlinbar
on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Comfortable accommodation
is afforded visitors at moderate rates at the three principal Hotels in
Swanlinbar.

There is good fishing in the Lakes and Rivers along the Line—viz.,
at Drumshambo for Lough Allen, the Arigna River, and River Shannon;

at Bawnboy Road for Templeport Lake; Ballinamore for Garadice, etc
Lakes; and at Dromod for the River Shannon, Lough Boderg, etc., etc.

Among the places of ANTIQUITY or HISTORIC NOTE in
the district traversed by the Railway are :—
BAWNBOY ROAD.—Ruins of an ancient Abbey and Island Graveyard.

GARADICE.—Ruins of an ancient Island Abbey.
FENAGH.—Ancient Abbey and Druidic remains.
ANNADALE.—Driney Ancient Dungeon, Irish Island Prison.

ARiCNA.—Keadue. Burial Place of Carolan, the last of the Irish Bards.
Also the Battlefield of Moytierre.

DRUMSHAMBO.—Lough Allen, with its Islands and Ancient Abbeys and
Island Graveyards.

HOTELS.

Belturbet: The Lawn Hotel and Strain’s Hotel. Ballyconnell: Toomey’s
Hotel and Clancy's Hotel. Ballinamore: Hyland's Hotel, M‘Gauran’s
Hotel, and Martin's Hotel. Drumshambo: Mount Allen Hotel. Mohill:
Johnustone’s Hotel and Knott’s Hotel, etc.

a.m. ’ a.m. p.m.
Dublin (M.G.W.), dep. 9.15 Dublin (G.N.R.), dep. est aan
Sligo is ” 9.15 Londonderry ry a ae on fen
nniskillen ,, a ete :
Dromod (C. and LR.) ,, 12.55 Belturbet (C. and L.R.), dep. 1.0 6.35
Arigna, arr, ... «+» 410 Drumshambo, arr, ... «. 3.49 8.57
Belturbel, a, ao 2 « 223 Quena. ” ee
Offices.
Ballinamore,

Co. Leitrim, Ireland.

MIDLAND GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY OF IRELAND.

CONNEMARA and ACHILL—Holiday Tours and Excursions.

Tourist and Excursion Tickets are issued
awd Scotland to Connemara, A

from the Principal Stations in England
chill, and the West of Ireland.

CONNEMARA TOUR. Saturday to Tuesday
Tourist Tickets from Dublin. LB SAL Se UN EC UE
RETURN FaRKS (including car journey T 1Cl. 2Cl. 3 Cl.
between Clifden and Westport.) GALWAY ++. 20/- 16/- 10)
ist Class, gnd Class, 3rd Class, MAAM CROSS_... )
47/6 42/- 30/- RECESS |
BALLYNAHINCH |
pete ' 22/6 17/6 12/6
ACHILL and ; WESTPORT sf os
c UIs La VO MALLARANNY .. |
Tourist Tickets from Dublin. ACHILL ee)
RETURN Fans (including car journey | grigo I~ 20/- 15/- ~~ 10f-
between Clifden and Westport and ENNISTYMON :
ao Station and Dugort), Achill LAHINCH s |
Island. 95/- 9/- 2/6
Ist Class, 2nd Class, 3rd Class, MILTOWN ALBAY : a re
58/6 51/6 38/- KILKEE al
MALLARANNY. Combined Rail and Hotel Tickets from Dublin.
From 15th June till 18th September. From 13th September till 15th June.
ist Class. 2nd Class. lst Class. 2nd Class.
Weekly £418 o £4 60 Weekly 24 4 0 23 12 0
3-day £2 13-0 £2 4 6 | 3-day £2700 21 18 6
9-day £2 4:0 £115 6 | 2-day 22 0 0 £1 1 6

Hotels under Company’s management at Recess (Connemara), and Mallaranny
(Achill). Motor Garages. Inspection Pits. Petrol. Golfing at Mallaranny-

Tourist Cars run on Week Vays during June, July, August aud September between CLIFDEN and WESTPORT, and
between ACHILL STATION and DUGORT,
Guides, Time Tables, Tourist Programmes, and Hotel Tariffs, can be obtained on application to the Company's Agents
Mr Joseph Hoey, 50 Castle Street, Liverpool; Messrs. Cook’s Offices ; Tourist Development Office, 65 Haymarket, London,
or from Superintendent of Line; Midland Great Western Railway, Broadstone Station, Dublin
JOSEPIT TATILOW, Manager.

Belfast and County Down Railway.

TOURIST DISTRICT.

TO TOURISTS, COLFERS, ANTIQUARIANS, AND HEALTH SEEKERS.

The District served La the BELFAST AND COUNTY DOWN
RAILWAY comprises—

PORTAFERRY and STRANEFORD LOUGH, BANCOR and DONACHADEE,
ARDCLASS and KILLOUCH, BALLYNAHINCH and its SPAS, NEW-
CASTLE, CASTLEWELLAN, BRYANSFORD, ROSTREVOR, and the
justly celebrated MOURNE MOUNTAINS.
DIRECT ROUTE to NEWCASTLE, Co. Down, ‘‘The Queen of Irish

ay aena a Places,” is from QUEEN’S QUAY STATION, BELFAST.

PUNCTUAL and EXPEDITIOUS TRAIN SERVICE. EXPRESS TRAINS

perform the journey in 55 minutes.

Immediately adjoining NEWCASTLE STATION is the ‘‘SLIEVE
DONARD HOTEL,” owned and managed by the Railway Company.
Tariff on application to the Hotel Manager. Also the links of the
Royal County Down Golf Club, over which Hotel visitors are permitted
to play at reduced rates.

During the Summer months CHEAP EXCURSION and CIRCULAR
TOUR TICKETS are issued daily from BELFAST STATION. COACH
DRIVES may be made to KILKEEL, ROSTREVOR and WARRENPOINT,
through the MOURNE MOUNTAINS, and via the Coast Road, with
NEWCASTLE as headquarters.

THROUGH EXCURSION AND TOURIST BOOKINGS TO NEWCASTLE,
ARDGLASS. DOWNPATRICK, DONAGHADEE, and BANGOR, from the
PRINCIPAL ENGLISH STATIONS.

The Revised Edition of Official Guide to County Down and the
Mourne Mountains may be had on application to the undersigned,

1 ach.:
eopies. te € CHARLES A MOORE, Manager.

Queen’s Quay Terminus, Belfast.

Sligo, Leitrim § Northern Counties Railway Co.
“The Only Way”

FROM BELFAST TO SOUTH AND WEST
OF IRELAND IS

Via Enniskillen and Sligo, Leitrim and
Northern Counties Railway.

Through Communication between Belfast, Dublin, Drogheda, Dundalk,
erry and entire North of Ire'and and South and
West of Ireland, via Enniskillen.

This Company’s Line forms the MOST DIRECT and Cheapest Route
for all kinds of Traffic between Belfast and the North of Ireland, and the
South and West of Ireland

Wagons run through without transhipment.

Goods should be routed ‘‘Via Enniskillen and Sligo, Leitrim and
Northern Counties Railway.”

The Line traverses a delightful country, anl many beauty spots may be
visited, including Enniskillen, for Lough Erne; Belcoo, for the Marble
Arch; Dromahair, for Lough Gill; Sligo, for Rosse’s Point, where there
is a fine 18-hole Golf Links—Mountain, Lake and Coast Scenery.

T. A. ARMSTRONG,
General Manager.

ENNISKILLEN, JUNE, 1910.

R. Y. PICKERING & CO., LTD.,

Established 1864,
Makers of ——_!.
Railway Carriages,
Wagons and Wheels,
and Axles.
Ohief Works —
WISHAW, near Glasgow

am

8 L

VACUUM BRAKE CoO., LTD., LONDON.

Insure Yourself

against ACTIONS at LAW for DAMAGES caused by your BEES.
PREMIUM (covering up to £30), id. per Stock, per ANNUM.

THE IRISH BEE JOURNAL SCHEME.

Full particulars, with APPLICATION Form, 14d. post free.
IRISH BEE JOURNAL OFFICE, Lough Rynn, R.S.0., CO. LEITRIM.

Save Money

e
Save Time
By sending your TYPING ORDERS to us.

ASSOCIATION CIRCULARS, PRICE LISTS, &c., executed with
utmost promptitude and at Lowest Rates.

IRISH BEE JOURNAL OFFICE, Lough Rynn, R.8.0., CO. LEITRIM.

Butter Fresh from Dairy
to Breakfast Table.

Made from Pasteurised Cream, on most approved principles,
by newest process. Guaranteed Pure ‘‘ Creamery.”

By Post or Rail.

MOHILL CO-OPERATIVE DAIRY, Mohill, CO. LEITRIM.

(Established 1888).

This Volume is a
Specimen of our Work

The use of Good Printing is an
invaluable aid to the Sale of a Book
or Magazine. Make use of us.

CAHILL & CO., Ltd.
Printers,
40 LOWER ORMOND QUAY, DUBLIN.

HELP TO BEEKEEPERS.
HAMILTON, LONG & CO., Ltd.,

State Apothecaries and Chemists,

BY ROYAL WARRANT.

Beg to intimate that they will be pleased to supply in Solution

THE NAPHTHOL-BETA REMEDY

(GUARANTEED ABSOLUTELY PURE) as recommended for the destruction
of Foul Brood in Hives,

With directions as to quantity and how and when to be used with Syrup.
Price, 8 ounce Bottle, 1/4, post free.

Also at Greatly Reduced Prices—Naphthaline, Carbolio Acid, Salicylic Acid,
Camphor, Coal Tar Products and other Chemicals used as Preventatives
of Foul Brood.

Medicated Candy for Feeding Bees, 1lb., 6d.; Tlbs., 33.3
14lbs., 5s. 6d.

Special quotations for quantities. The Trade supplied.

Horse and Cattle Medicines.

Oldham’s Cattle Cure is now the property of and is prepared
solely by Hamilton, Long & Co. They can strongly
recommend this remarkable remedy as a preservative
against and certain cure for the ‘‘ Lung Distemper”
in cattle, as weil as coughs, colds, and swelling of the
throat. The price for doses for full-grown animals,
£1 per dozen, 2/- per single jar; for two years old,
16/- per dozen, 1/8 per single jar; for yearlings, 12/-
per dozen, 1/4 per single jar.

N.B.—Write for Reduced Cash Price List of Patent Medicines and other

Sundry Goods.
[Please name this Book.]

HAMILTON, LONG & CO., Ltd.,
3 Lower Sackville Street, DUBLIN.

Branches: 107 Graften Street, Dublin; | Rathmines Terrace; 102 Upper
George's Street, Kingstown ; and Whitehall Terrace, Clontarf,

Telegraphic Address: “‘ MEDICINE, DUBLIN.”

Established 1850.

J. W. ELVERY & GO, sccizecen az,

LADIES’ RAIN COATS GENTLEMEN'S

(no rubber), 2
21/-, 26/6, 32/6, 42/-, 55/-. EM eae
HOT WATER BAGS 26/6, 38/-,

(Bed Warmers),

42/- iality.
8/9, 4/9, 5/9, 6/9. a Speciality

WATERPROOF
DRIVING RUGS, BOYS’ ann GIRLS’ PIG-SKIN LEGGINGS
40/6, 15/6, 22/6. WATERPROOEFS, 9/6, 12/6, 15/- pair.

10/6, 15/6, 24/-.
CATALOGUE FREE.

46 & 47 Lr. Sackville St.,
.. AND... DUBLIN.

183 Nassau Street,

Also at 78 Patrick St., Cork; and 31 Conduit Street,
London, W.

Hevea sd

ie Yeo in

tne

RS CN
Mies