eae a « sh ies a HANDBOOKS OF es PRACTICAL GARDENING tear || *S (THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE BY empergees | APRED HEMSIEYERMS Sy a as Cornell Muiversity Zibrary BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME _ FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT. FUND THE GIFT OF Henry W. Saqe 1891 fi AEE EE TP a srarminnrennconiowmveasnscen ie Mab. RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. Cornell University Library SB 429.H49 wa Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003363839 HANDBOOKS OF PRACTICAL GARDENING EDITED BY HARRY ROBERTS THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE RNS Nursery by OF CHOICE FE A GROUP Taken at Messrs. H. B. May & Sons’ ¥. Tanson THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE BY ALFRED HEMSLEY, F.R.H.S. FORMERLY FOREMAN oF THE PLANT DEPARTMENT AT THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS, CHISWICK LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY. MCMVIII Turnbuil & Spears, Printers, Edinburgh CONTENTS CHAPTER INTRODUCTION « . . , . I. Propacation, anp Hysraips or Garpen VARIRTIES II. Composts ror Ferns, anp Portinc Ferns Il. ‘*Restinc” Ferns ann Warterinc Ferns A IV. Decipvous anp Protirerous Ferns . ‘ V. Smatt Growinc Ferns . ‘é ‘ é VIL Specimen Ferns anp Tree Ferns " VII. Frowerinc Ferns anp Cuimsinc Ferns . “ VU Firmy Ferns a ’ . . . TX. Tinrep anp Variscatep Ferns, AND Cuoice Ferns FoR tue Stove . 7 . . X. Ferns For Hanoinc-Baskets aND Ferns ror WALL Pockets ‘ . ‘ # . XI. Ferns on Tree Stems, aND Rock FERNERY XI. Ferns ror Winpow Boxes anp Ferns ror House DecoraTION . . . 7 XU, Apiantums AND ASPLENIUMS XIV. Aspipiums AND CHEILANTHES ¥ . . XV. Greicuenias AND Davatias é XVI. GymMNocRaMMAS AND NEpHROLEPIS XVI. Pratyceriums anp Potypopiums , , XVIII. Preris, Lomarias, Brecunums, £Tc. . XIX. Harpy Ferns anp Norta American Ferns XX. SELaGINELLAS ’ . ' F XXI, Fern Enemies. “ r INDEX * . * ‘ x 103 107 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Group of Cuoice Ferns 5 . 2 : Frontispiece A Crestep Scovorenprium . To face page 6 Nepsroreris Fosreri. ! : . . wm 48 A Prumose Nzpuro.epis é . . ‘ 899g TZ Entrance To Fern House ‘ i P x a 6 9g 8 LomaRiA ASPERA (A PROLIFEROUS FERN) . . : « # 24 Potyropium AMERICANUM i ‘ ‘ , m6 oxy 86 NorHocHLzNa RUFA ‘i i i . é c- Ss 28 NEPHROLEPIS SUPERBISSIMA : , F . a 49-32 PoLyropIuM MEYENIANUM ‘ : i é > 93, 38 HymeNnorHyLLuM DEMisSUM i : . . » 99 44 GyYMNOGRAMMA CHRYSOPHYLLA GRANDICEPS is : 1» ~93 46 Osmunpa May . 5 i é é soy 48 Poryropium KNicHTIZ . . : ij A 99 52 PLATYCERIUM GRANDE (ON CORK) a 7 . on 54 Po.ypopiuM vENosUM . 7 ‘ : ‘ on 56 NEPHROLEPIS TODAOIDES , ‘i " ‘ 3 1999), 60 AsPLentum Mavi ‘ . a : Fi oy 66 vu vii THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE Apiantom Mayi . ‘ ‘i ; . To face page 64 ASPLENIUM OBTUSILOBUM j ‘ : ‘ xy 68 ACROSTICHUM DECURRENS ‘ ‘ . ‘ ee hod Dava.iia BRASILIENSIS . % * i ‘ 1» 99 72 Fronp oF NEPHROLEPIS SUPERB] SIMA. z oy 76 PLaryceRIUM GRANDE . 3 ‘ 3 : >» 9 78 ScoOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE VAR, .- ‘ ‘ 39° xp 88 PotyropIuM VULGARE CAMBRICUM F ; a 99 94 SELAGINELLA Watson] . ‘ ~ . ‘ oo 98 SELAGINELLA Marrensi . . ; . ox | ay FOZ THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE INTRODUCTION In the following pages on ‘Practical Fern Culture” the writer has endeavoured to give brief instructions regarding the requirements of the most popular Ferns, with the aim of assisting those who have had little or no previous experience. It is also hoped that older growers will also find some notes of interest. The writer’s experience extends over nearly forty years, during which time he has been more or less associated with Ferns and their culture, and has seen great changes. In addition to having been associated with one of the largest Fern growers for about sixteen years, the writer has gained much experience from visiting other nurseries where Ferns are extensively grown. Ferns, or rather most of them, are no longer regarded as semi-aquatics, to be kept continually moist and under heavy shading and green glass. It has been fully proved in practice that those things are a great abomination. It was before the Kew authorities abolished green glass for the Fern houses that the writer of these pages commenced to condemn its uses, and in the Horticultural press no opportunity has been lost of further depreciating its value. While not wishing to underrate what many excellent authorities have written, it may be found that the instructions given in the following pages appear contradictory to much that has been previously pub- lished. The excuse is that in following practical results , A Pg 2 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE it has been found that Ferns may be grown well and much more economically than they were under the older methods of treatment. And it is hoped that the result of this experience may prove of use to others. No attempt has been made to deal with scientific principles or botanical accuracies. The author believes that the names which have been so long in use, and which still appear in catalogues, will be of more assis- tance in practice than the strictly botanical nomenclature. Taking as an instance the British Lady Fern, it may be quite correct to put it with the dspleniums, yet it will long be known as Athyrium. Davallia Mooreana has been known for many years, and now there are few outside those who study botany who would know that it should be named D. pallida. Stenochlena scandens became popular under this name some years ago; now it is named Acrostichum scandens. Other examples might be given, but the above will be sufficient to show the difficulty of combining the scientific with the prac- tical. In dealing with Ferns, as with other plants which come under cultivation, it is not always advisable to try to follow natural conditions too closely. Yet there are some points which are essential. Take, for instance, the native and other hardy Ferns. They mostly grow in the shade of deciduous trees which come into leaf late in the Spring, after the Ferns have made a good start. ‘When the leaves fall in the Autumn, day-light is again let in, while the leaves, grasses, etc., that have grown up around the Ferns all give some protection during the Winter, and when further decayed these accumulations afford new surface matter for the roots. Now, in what may be termed a neat garden, all these accessories are removed, and the Ferns suffer in conse- quence. This is one great reason why the hardy Ferns are not more popular. Many Ferns which are found .growing in leafy or peat soil are equally at home and do INTRODUCTION 3 better with loam, the natural conditions being simply a matter of accident rather than necessity. It is often suggested that Ferns do not require manure, yet under natural conditions birds and various small animals manure the ground, and the decayed leaves, etc., give further assistance. It has been proved that Ferns may be grown larger under cultivation than they are ever seen growing naturally. In giving a brief summary of the various classes of Ferns and their culture, many omissions may have been made. And perhaps some of the instructions may appear rather tedious, yet it is due attention to small details on which success depends. Careful and regular attention will lead to success, where all the most expensive appli- ances, and best materials will be of little use if not properly applied. In conclusion, it may be remarked that no writer can give such instructions as will lead to absolute success ; but it is hoped that the following pages may materially assist those who carry them out in a practical manner. CHAPTER I PROPAGATION Fern propagation is one of the most interesting branches of Horticulture. There are so many methods by which stock may be renewed, or increased. And it is interest- ing to note that it is those species which fail to reproduce from spores, which are most readily propagated by some other means. Take Adiantum capillus-veneris var. im- bricatum: this produces tiny little bulbils round the margins of the fronds; and these, when laid on suitable soil, will soon form young plants. It may be added here that in some instances it has reverted to the normal form, or more like 4. c. p. magnificum, and spores have been found, but the best type is barren of spores. The dense growing Scolopendrium vulgare, var. Kelwayi, on well matured fronds, develops tiny bulbils which may be taken off and treated as small seedlings. Another variety of Scolopendrium produces bulbils on the surface of its fronds. Many of the Aspleniums are very prolific in surface bulbils. Other Ferns produce root bulbils, others have spreading rhizomes. These are all dealt with in their proper order. In almost all instances where spores can be obtained, it will be found to be the best method of propagation. The collecting of the spores is of great importance. All choice sorts should be taken from plants isolated as far as possible from the free growing species, or what may be termed Fern weeds. The worst weeds are Nephrodium molle Gymnogramma Martensi and the free growing Prerises. 4 PROPAGATION 5 The spore fronds should be collected as soon as they show the first signs of maturity, for in many Ferns all the best spores fall away as soon as the spore cases open. Take Osmunda palustris: the proper spores are of a green colour when ripe, and they fall very quickly. In Preris argyrea they are quite black, but in a day or two after the cases open there will be nothing left except the brown receptacles. In most of the Davallias the spores are yellow. In the Gymnogrammas the true spores are nearly black, but some take the white farina, or powder, to be spores. The diantums vary ; in cuneatum they are dark, while those of scutum are pale yellow. If the fronds are collected at the right time, put into paper, and placed in a dry place, the spores will, in most instances, fall out naturally, and rubbing of the fronds will only secure the woolly part of the receptacles. There are some exceptions. Take Onychium Japonicum: the spore cases may appear abundant, but spores will be scarce, and will have to be extracted by rubbing, while in Onychium auratum they fall out and are very abundant. Yet it is curious to note that while it is rarely that the former fail to germinate, it is difficult to raise the latter. It may here be added that, although it is supposed that spores will keep for an indefinite period, it is safer to rely on those freshly collected. This is especially the case with the Davaliias and some of the Adiantums. Yet some instances have occurred where spores have germinated after being kept for a long time. We owe the reintroduction of Asplenium marginatum to Herbarium specimens, which were collected some years before the spores were sown. And other instances might be given where seedlings have been raised from very old spores, but they have generally been kept under exceptional conditions. And where possible to get those that have only been newly collected, it is much safer to use them than to rely on old ones. It may be added that Fern 6 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE spores keep best in a dry warm position; after they are properly dried they may be shut up in a close tin box. Sow1nGc Spores The first thing is the preparation of the pots. The old method of filling them half full of drainage is a wrong one! A larger surface of soil will retain the moisture better. In the market-nurseries no drainage is used, the pots being filled with good loam, to within about an inch of the top. A thorough soaking with water is then given. After this a slight surfacing of powdered charcoal and crock dust, which should be shaken through a fine sieve, is given. Another water- ing may then be given. The pots will then be ready for sowing the spores. The most important matter regarding the sowing is to avoid being too liberal with the spores. I have found many failures occur through sowing too thickly. Another point is that where several sorts are to be sown at the same time, care should be taken that the spores which are being sown cannot float on to the pots that are to be used for other sorts. And after sowing one variety, a duster should be used to cleanse the hands and any part where the spores may have settled. When sown, the pots may be placed in a close warm frame, each being put in a saucer of water; or they may be placed in any convenient position where they get light without the direct rays of the sun coming on them, and each pot covered with a piece of glass. When this is done the glass should be reversed every morning to avoid the condensed moisture dripping on to the surface. No surface watering should be given after the spores are sown. Light is an essential, and I have found that those in the open germinate better than others which have been in a close frame where it has been necessary to cover to keep the sun off. SCOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE Var. ramo-digitatum majus Taken at Messrs. H. B. May & Sons’ Nursery SOWING SPORES 7 There is a considerable difference in the time it takes for the various species to germinate. Some begin to show the green prothallia in less than a week, while others may remain dormant for months. And it sometimes occurs that some other sorts may spring up while those desired remain dormant, and any stray seedlings should be removed as they appear. I have had two or three crops from the pots in some _ instances, before the variety actually sown has appeared. And I have also found that unless those which germinate early are removed as they appear, they will effectually choke the slower growing variety which it is desired to establish. There is some difference of opinion in regard to the time of sowing spores. Ordinary sorts may be sown at any time, but with the choicer varieties the best time to sow is early in the year. And in most instances this will give time to establish plants the same season, while if sown later they will not have sufficient strength to live through the following Winter. Most species require handling three times before they are ready for small pots, First, as soon as the seed-pots are covered with the green prothallia they must be transferred to others prepared with some light sandy compost on the surface. The sporling (or seedlings) are taken out in little patches with the point of a stick and lightly pressed on the surface of the newly prepared pots, giving from half to three quarters of an inch between each patch. After this is done they should be kept in a close warm frame for atime. A little later on they will require dividing again. And some may require divid- ing a third time. All seedlings raised early in the year may be started in warmth, but the hardy sorts should be removed to cooler quarters as soon as they are well established. All the young plants should be exposed for a time before potting off singly. A good position is on a shelf close to the glass, the tender sorts in the warmest part of the house,.and the hardier sorts 8 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE may be transferred to a cooler house. After potting off singly they require some care; very little water should be given until they make a fresh start. Many young seed- lings are lost through over-watering, and being kept too close. ‘Those propagated from the small bulbils require similar treatment to that given to those raised from spores, but there are some which may be rooted either on a bed of suitable soil or in pots before detaching them from the parent fronds; with some, such as Woodwardia orientalis, and some of the viviparous -4spleniums, the bulbils fall off when they have made the first tiny frondlet. While with Woodwardia radicans a larger bulbil is formed towards the extremity of each frond, and occasionally on the side pinne as well, and these are difficult to remove. In the Angiopteris and Marattias a latent bud is found at the base of the fronds. These may be taken out after the lower fronds have ripened off, but they are rather difficult to remove, and require some care to establish plants from them. Those which pro- duce root bulbils should be grown in open baskets or on peat. The ordinary Stag’s-horn Fern (Platycerum alcicorne) isan example of those which should be grown on peat or in a basket. Those with spreading stolons or rhizomes may be bedded-in with suitable soil round them for the young plants to root into. In many of the Adiantums there are numerous small crowns, and they are easily divided. The beautiful 4. Farleyense is one of these. Old plants may be dried off a little, and all the fronds removed ; each tiny node or crown may be broken off. These bedded in sphagnum moss and sand, placed in a warm moist position, will soon start and have the appear- ance of smal] seedlings, and will require similar treatment. The Davallias are propagated readily from the spreading rhizomes. In dealing with each separate genus reference will be made to the most suitable modes of propagation, but finally I may add that it is always easier to deal with HYBRIDS, OR GARDEN VARIETIES 9 fresh, healthy young plants when divisions are to be made, Where it is only from the older plants that new stock can be made, the short healthy tips of the rhizomes should be taken. Where old plants are simply cut up and repotted, they almost invariably fail to make good plants if they do not die outright. Hysrips, oR GARDEN VARIETIES OF FERNS It is extremely difficult to account for vagaries of Ferns. It has been stated that distinct forms have been obtained by cross fertilisation, yet, it would be difficult to prove how variations do really occur. Of the many varieties that have come under notice, it seems to have been more by chance than design. It was stated when we had Adiantum Victorie that it was a cross between A. Farleyense and A. scutum. Yet as the former has never been known to produce spores, it would seem difficult to support the theory. Again, with Lomaria platyptera, this is stated to be a hybrid between L. gibha and Blechnum Braziliense. Yet it has been found among seedlings of L. gibba, where no plants or spores of the Blechnum could have come in contact with the gibba. The only instance of a variety of forms coming from mixed spores which has come directly under the notice of the writer was from an accidental mixing of Adiantums emulum and fragrantissima. Whether it was from cross fertilisation or accidental variation it would be difficult to tell, yet a great variety of distinct forms were raised, some of which were very pretty, and several gained awards from the Royal Horticultural Society. Subse- quent experiments with ddiantums and various other genera did not meet with success. Many instances could be given where very distinct varieties have occurred among batches of Ferns raised from spores in the ordi- 1o THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE nary way. The Aspleniums Mayi, Drueryi Herbsti, and others were all chance variations. Polypodium Mayi occurred among a large batch of P. glaucum. In Adiantums it is found when raising from spores that rhodophyllum and Victoria will occur in the same batch of seedlings. In scutum some will have much more colour in the young fronds than others. It may be an interesting experiment to try cross fertilisation by mixing different species of allied genera, but unlike cross fertilisation of flowering plants, there can be no certain results. Regarding variations, they may occur through plants being forced into growth in an unnatural manner. Instances have occurred where, in some varieties of Pteris serrulata, by being fed, and forced into further growth after one batch of fronds are developed, and others not ready to unfold, the pinne of the developed fronds will make further advance, or perhaps break out into multifid growths. All Fern growers should care- fully watch those raised from spores, and any showing the slightest variations in a young state may prove very distinct when fully developed. ih \\ wt A fine basket Fern Photo. by G, Gregory NEPHROLEPIS FOSTERI CHAPTER II PREPARATION OF SoILs FoR Porrine FarLure in Fern culture often occurs through some slight neglect in preparation of the compost for potting. Even those which will grow in almost any soil may fail if there should happen to be something in the soil they do not like. The condition of the soil is a great factor. In the first place, it should not be too dry or too wet ; if wet and sticky it clogs together when pressed, and the roots cannot penetrate freely. On the other hand, when too dry it will be very difficult to get the water to penetrate. Temperature is another important matter. To pot even the commonest sorts in very cold soil means that the tips of the young roots will suffer, and when the points are gone it takes some time to renewthem. The soil should always be as warm or a little warmer than the temperature of the house the Ferns are growing in. I believe that this is one point which is often overlooked, and if actual failure does not occur a great check is given, and it takes some time for the plants to make a new start. With the choice or tender Ferns it is of greater importance. In referring to compost for Ferns mention is usually made to loam peat, leaf-mould, etc., but there is a great difference in the quality of these and also of manures. Taking them in order— Loam.—The most suitable is a soft fibrous loam with some sand in it, but this may not be procurable, and then Ir 12 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE some fibrous peat and sand may be added, but first of all spread the loam out and see that it is free from worms and other vermin. The leaf mould should be well decayed, and that from Beech and Oaks is the best. It is almost impossible to get this free from worms, but if some soot is mixed with it before adding it to the other soil they may be destroyed. The black soot from ordinary house chimneys should be used. It is dangerous to use the soot from the green- house boilers. Manure from spent hotbeds may be used freely, or any short stable manure if it is properly dried and rubbed through a sieve. Some soot may be mixed with the manure, and if laid up for a short time the worms or worm’s eggs will be destroyed. When mixing the compost the sieve may be used for the manure and leaf-mould, but the loam should be broken up, and all the fibre retained. It is a common error to sift the compost and throw the best (that is the fibrous lumps) away. In preparing the soil some variation has to be made for the different sorts, yet the general heap may consist of two-thirds loam and the remainder made up with leaf-mould and manure with sand added according to the texture of the loam; for those which require it peat can be added. Almost all the Adiantums succeed better without peat if the loam is good. For the ordinary Adiantums, Pteris, Cyrtomiums, etc., some bone meal may be added. This should be the pure bone meal, not dis- solved bones. Formerly peat was extensively used, but since Ferns have been so generally grown for market, it has been proved that it.is quite unnecessary for most sorts, in fact they do better without it. The best Adiantum Farleyense I ae seen have been grown in loam, manure, and sand only. Many Ferns will succeed in almost any ordinary potting A PLUMOSE NEFHROLEPIS In Randall's patent telescope elevator POTTING FERNS 13 compost, yet there is always an advantage in taking a little trouble to properly prepare it, as it may save a lot of trouble later on. One thing which should be avoided is to lay the compost on boards that may spread fungus. Portinc Ferns Cultural success depends largely on careful attention to small details. ‘The soil may be properly prepared and in good condition, yet there are other matters which require consideration. The time of potting may vary considerably, and young plants of the free-growing sorts will require potting on two or three times during the year, but for the established plants of the choice sorts repotting once a year will be often enough; and the best time to do this is in the spring, after they have made a start into new growth. There may be some difference of opinion on this point. Some authorities say it should be done while the Ferns are dormant. My experience, however, has been that it is better to repot after they have started into growth. When inactive there is always a chance of the new soil getting sour before the roots penetrate it. It is the same when dividing those which have the tufted crowns; they get away much better if done after they have started into growth. Many of the Adiantums, which may have grown too large _for their pots, may be divided, if it is not convenient to give them larger pots, and if done carefully they will not suffer from being disturbed. It may be necessary to use a knife to divide the crowns, but the roots should be pulled apart; if cut straight through some of the best, or feeders will be lost. Taking those with a single crown, or caudex. Many of the Péerises and others make new roots from the stem as it advances, and some of the old roots at the bottom of the pots may be dispensed with. It will be quite safe 14 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE to cut them off above where the crocks reach, and then all the matted roots may be loosened out. By cutting away the base it will enable the plants to be potted down, so that the portion of the stem where the new roots start from can be covered with soil. Under natural conditions leaves and other materials accumulate from year to year to provide for this necessity. Care should be taken that the soil in the pots is not too dry or too wet at the time of repotting ; if it is very dry it will be most difficult to wet it afterwards, and when very wet it may squeeze up together and do mischief that way. When necessary to water, the plants should stand for a time before disturbing the roots. Size of pots is an important matter. I have frequently seen the small, delicate Ferns over-potted, while the more robust have not had pots of sufficient size. When turning a plant out of its pot, it is easy to see what its requirements are. If the roots are chiefly on the surface, it will be evident that good drainage, and rough material for the lower part of the pots should be used; for free-rooting sorts which root down, but little space should be taken up with crocks. With such as do not fill the pots with roots, much of the old soil may be removed and the plants potted again in the same size, or in some instances in smaller ones. It is safer to keep all weakly Ferns in rather small pots than otherwise. In the notes on preparing soils, temperature is referred to, and this must not be overlooked. Another point is that tender sorts should not be taken into a cold, draughty shed, or the roots left exposed long enough to get dry. Where the potting- shed is not connected with the fern-house, a small movable bench may be taken into the house. Ferns do not require to be potted so firmly as many plants, yet for those which have to remain in the same pots for the whole year, the soil should be pressed fairly POTTING FERNS 15 firm, especially in the lower part of the pots. I have found that the inexperienced often leave the soil loose beneath and press it too firm on the surface. After potting, the surface of the soil may be settled down by giving a slight surface watering with a fine rose watering- can. A heavy watering will wash the soil down hard, and if left until the surface gets quite dry it does not take the water so well. The slight surface watering may be all that will be necessary for some days ; much will depend upon circumstances. When it is necessary to water, sufficient should be given to penetrate to the bottom of the pots. See notes on watering. CHAPTER III RestTinG FERNS Unper natural conditions most Ferns have a period of rest, and under cultivation it is an absolute necessity with some. Taking the Gleichemas, if they are kept too warm during the early part of the winter they may continue to grow for a time, but when the time comes for them to make their growth naturally, they will fail. The beautiful Preris scaberuda is sure to fail if kept warm through the early part of the winter. Most Adiantums if given a period of rest will start away with more vigour. Where grown for cutting from, some may be dried off early in the autumn and restarted in time to make good fronds for winter use, and these plants may be kept in heat. Yet it is those which are rested from early in the autumn until January or February and then restarted which make the most satisfactory growth. It is surprising how quickly they will make new fronds. Very little water should be given until they are well started ; they may then have liquid manure. I have found that the ordinary Prerises will, if rested, make better plants than those kept in heat through the Winter. It is the same with Cyrtomiums. And I believe that many of our choicest Ferns have been lost through giving too much warmth during the early part of the ‘Winter. Ihave also found that with our hardy British Ferns, that when grown in pots they are considerably weakened if kept warm enough to make new fronds in the Autumn. The secret is that they exhaust the 16 WATERING FERNS 7) vitality which should remain stored up for making growth during the natural period, and in the dull Winter months they cannot recuperate or form the strong crowns for making another start in the Spring. There are some of our stove Ferns which are natur- ally deciduous (that is they loose all their fronds even when kept in warmth), and these require careful treat- ment. They must not be dried off too much, or exposed to a very low temperature. It is the same with the hardy deciduous sorts. ‘Take our British Ferns: under natural conditions they get more moisture while they are dormant than they do when they are in active growth. The Davaillias (deciduous kinds) are the only Ferns T have found to succeed well after being kept quite dry for any length of time. It may be pointed out that it requires some experience in regard to the time when water may be partially with- held and temperature lowered. In the ordinary course, with established plants, there will be little difficulty, as they will have naturally completed their growth and properly matured it by the Autumn,’ but young plants may be growing later and should not be checked until the fronds are well matured. There are many which make their fronds in whorls; and all of these may be rested, while such as have one frond following another will require more uniform treatment, and should not be subject to so great a change in the temperature. Yet a low, or comparatively low, temperature during the early winter months is beneficial to all Ferns. WatTERING FERNS Over-watering is the most common error connected with Fern culture. Very few Ferns require to be treated as acquatics. The old practice of heavy shading and continual moisture is to some extent being discontinued, B 18 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE yet there are more Ferns killed through keeping them saturated with water than from any other cause. It may, however, be pointed out that the opposite extreme may prove equally fatal. Some species may get withered and will revive again when watered, but there are others which if once they wither, can never take up water again. Todea arborea, Dicksonias and other Tree-ferns are examples. The question is often asked, ‘‘ How frequently should they be watered ?” So much depends upon circumstances that it is impos- sible to answer. By careful observation it will soon be found easy to ascertain when water is required. One test is by tapping the pots; if they have a hollow sound water is required. In most instances the surface of the soil will indicate the condition ; there is as much difference as there is in the roads when they are wet or dry. When water is required sufficient should be given to penetrate through. The temperature of water is aquestionon which there is some difference of opinion. From experience I should say that it is better to use it a little below the temperature of the house than above it, except in the spring when the plants are starting into active growth; and even then it should not be very much above the house temperature. If at any time they are found to be very dry, and the water does not penetrate freely, the pots should be stood in water for a time. Dipping is also the best means of properly wetting those grown in suspended baskets. If saucers are used for standing the pots in, water should not be allowed to constantlyremaininthem. When standing on a moist bottom it is far better not to use saucers, except for those which take up large quantities of water, or the extra large plants in small pots. For established plants liquid manure may be used freely ; that made from cow-dung and soot, if made some time before required for use and allowed to settle down so % & WATERING FERNS 19 that it can be used in a clear state, may be recommended. The soot is rather difficult to mix with the water. It is often put into the tanks in bags, but it is better to mix it in a pail, making a paste of it, and then wash it through a fine sieve into the tub or tank, it will then soon settle down. THE USE OF THE SyRinceE.—Wall pockets which are out of reach may be watered sufficiently with the syringe, and it may be used in the way of a shower occasionally. Those who grow large quantities of Ferns for market, rarely, if ever, use it, except for wetting under the stages, etc. Frequent syringing will be almost sure to stain the fronds, and where a fairly moist atmosphere can be maintained it is quite unnecessary to use the syringe. On no account should Gymnogrammas or others with the powder or farina on the fronds be syringed. In the Stove Fernery if too much moisture is given during the winter it will condense on the glass and rafters, and the cold drip on the fronds will discolour them. It may be pointed out that with extra fire-heat more water may be required than in the summer, and those nearest the pipes are most likely to suffer. They are often the further away from the reach of the water-pot, and may be dry, while those nearer the front, which may be easier to examine, are moist. CHAPTER IV Decipvous FERNS THERE are some of our most beautiful Ferns which naturally lose all their fronds during the Autumn and remain quite dormant until the Spring; these are termed deciduous, and in some there is no visible sign of life, while others have a prominent caudex or crown. Growers not aquainted with the habits of Ferns are liable to regard those which show no sign of life as being dead, and consequently throw them away. Mistakes of this kind have come under my notice on several occasions. It will, therefore, be seen that it is of the greatest importance that those who have choice collections of Ferns should be careful to ascertain the natural habits of any that die down, before throwing them away. I may give Adiantum lunulatum, and Nephro- lepis Bausei as examples where there appears no sign of life after the fronds have died off. Of the former I have found that even with quite small seedlings they will ripen off at the natural period, and come up again in the Spring. And N. Bawse: I may mention as one which shortly after it was introduced, it occurred that a whole batch of valuable plants were thrown away by a young man who was ignorant of its habits. All of the de- ciduous Ferns require some care to keep them through the winter, and most of them may be kept in about the same temperature as those which retain their fronds. Of course they will not require much water, but they will perish if allowed to get very dry; it is not a DECIDUOUS FERNS 21 natural condition. Take our British Lady-Fern, (4thy- rium) they usually get more moisture while they are dormant than when they are in a growing state, the driest period being (usually) when the fronds are ripening off. The species and varieties named below may not include all the deciduous Ferns that are found under cultivation, but are among those most generally known and appre- ciated, Adiantums.—Of these one of the most beautiful is A. digitatum, more generally known as A. speciosum (this should not be confused with 4. ethopicum alatum, which is sometimes erroneously named digitatum). It has large spreading fronds with large pinnules, which are of a soft greyish green. It requires a warm green-house or stove treatment, and should be kept fairly moist while dormant. It usually remains inactive until late in the Spring, but makes rapid growth when it does start. 4. pa/matum is of somewhat similar habit; the deep green pinnules are widely distant on very slender black stipes. This will succeed either in the stove or green-house. It should be kept in the cool-house when it is ripening off, and may be started in heat early in the Spring. 4. /unulatum requires to be grown in baskets or suspended pots. It remains dormant for a considerable time, and the pots may remain suspended to the roof in the stove during the dormant period, or they may be placed on a shelf, and given just sufficient moisture to prevent the slender roots from perishing. .4. Henslovianum is another distinct stove species, which grows freely but requires careful winter treatment. dd. pedatum: this beautiful North American species, though hardy, is often treated as a green-house Fern, and when grown in pots should always have some protection during frosty weather. Started in a little warmth early in the Spring, it will soon develop the beautiful soft green fronds. It is a favourite Fern for growing in sheltered nooks on the rockery. Davallia 22 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE bullata is quite deciduous, and remains dormant until late in the spring ; but while destitute of fronds, the rhizomes, which are densely covered with chestnut-brown scales, are attractive. The Japanese form ‘‘ Mariesi,” though con- sidered a variety of the above, is quite distinct. The slender rhizomes have grey scales and silvery tips, and will start again into active growth almost before the old fronds have ripened off. This is well known, from being extensively imported from Japan, made up in various designs, such as Monkeys, Frogs, Birds, etc,, but it is only the round balls that can be grown successfully. Davallia immersa, generally known as Leucostegia, is a most desirable Fern for baskets. The slender rhizomes spread through the soil and produce fronds as soon as they peep through to daylight, and form perfect balls of soft, almost straw-coloured fronds, with a bronzy tint. D. pulchra is another belonging to the same sub- genus; this does not spread so freely, and the fronds are of a deep green. All of these may be kept fairly dry during the dormant period. Nephrolepis.—Of this genus there is only one distinct species that is deciduous; this is pluma and its variety Bausei. The latter is often given as a species, but it was originally raised from a single pinne of pluma which had produced the extended side lobes. After these are thoroughly ripened off, they may be turned out of the pots, and small tubers (as in N. tuderosa) will be found. These put in sphagnum moss and sand will start early in the spring, and may then be potted, either singly or about three in each pot, and grown on in the stove. Lygodium Japonicum (frequently named scandens) is semi- deciduous, and it may be cut down when the new fronds begin to show at the base. If the old fronds are left, they will die off later, and will be difficult to separate from the young ones. Other species may be treated similarly. Athyrium gorringeanum pictum is a pretty PROLIFEROUS FERNS a4 greenhouse Fern, with tricolor fronds, which ripen off early in the autumn; the plants should be kept fairly moist during the winter. ‘This is included with the Aspleniums by modern botanists, but in gardens it will generally be found under the above name. W oodsias.—There are several species of this genus which are deciduous, but some are evergreen. ‘Those which lose their fronds should be kept in a cool position, and though they may not require much water, they must not be allowed to get too dry. There are a good many hardy species which are deciduous, including the Osmundas, Lastreas, Onochleas, and others which are referred to under ‘¢ Hardy Ferns.” PRoLIFEROUS FERNS It is remarkable that with many Ferns which fail to produce fertility from spores find some other mode of reproduction. Some produce plants on spreading rhizomes, others on the surface of their fronds, while many produce bulbils on their roots which, when they get through to daylight, soon make young plants. Taking the various proliferous Ferns, it is in the Aspleniums that are the most prominent, yet in most of the other large genera we get some examples, and it is interesting to note how much the proliferations vary. Taking the Aspleniums—in A. feniculaceum the bulbils rarely make but one frondlet, and will fall off readily when touched, while in most of the du/biferum and vivi- parum types they cling, and are difficult to detach with- out damaging the fronds, and they will make several small fronds while still attached to the parent. Some are very prolific, while others produce only one solitary bulbil near the extremities of the fronds. In the Adiant- ums we have three forms of proliferation, viz. the young plants as produced on the rachis of Ad dolabri- 24 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE forme and ciliatum, the tiny bulbils as on the pinnules of A. capillus veneris imbricatum, and the root bulbils as on A. Moorei and others. In the Aspidiums the proliferations mostly occur in the form of bulbils on the main rachis, and these, if the fronds are pegged down, on suitable soil will soon root, and good plants may be established before severing them from the parent; but it is difficult to get them off without damaging the fronds. In the gymnogeammas we have an interesting example in:G. scluzophylla gloriosa, ‘This invariably produces one bulbil, or young plant, at the extremity of each frond, and in some instances the side pinne will also produce bulbils, and if the fronds are pegged down, young plants may soon be established. Small pots filled. with suitable soil are best where there is only one bulbil at, or near the extremity of the fronds. The Hemiomtis produce young plants on the short fronds which lie on the surface. They root, and soon form a cluster of young plants round the parent. In the chelanthes we have one example, viz. Bergiana (or Hypolepis Bergiana). Many of the Nephrolepis produce young plants from the spreading stolons, and others form bulbils under the soil. In the Platyceriums the proliferations occur on the roots, and of those in ordinary cultivation, P. grande is the only species which has failed to reproduce from the roots, In the woodwardias we have two distinct forms of proliferation ; W. orientalis having numerous tiny bulbils on the surface of the fronds. ‘These stand up with one small frondlet, and when touched fall off easily. Treated in the same way as small seedlings, they soon make roots. In W. radicans it is rarely that more than one bulbil is produced on each frond, and this is on the rachis towards the extremity. A round scaly bulb is first LOMARIA ASIPERA (The Spider Fern) Young plants produced on the fronds PROLIFEROUS FERNS 25 produced, and then small fronds appear, and in this species it is very difficult to detach the bulbils without damaging the fronds; and unless specially wanted for increasing the stock, they should be left on the plants. In the Pterises we have a few examples, or rather in the sub-genus Doryopteris, palmata and pedata are ex- amples, but these may be more readily propagated from spores, though, usually, those which produce bulbils are slow to germinate from spores, CHAPTER V SMALL GrowInG FERNS THERE are many Ferns which when fully developed attain to large proportions, are equally pretty when quite small, and have the appearance of having attained to maturity. As a rule, the first fertile fronds give some indication, but this cannot be relied upon absolutely. A selection of those which are naturally of small growth may prevent mistakes in potting or planting, and also avoid those being used which would soon overgrow and smother the choice small sorts. When once planted, very few growers care to root a plant out, especially when it is growing freely, and it is not uncommon to see a large Fern overtopping the delicate small ones. Many of the small growing Ferns require to be fully exposed to the light, and under the shade of others they will gradually dwindle and die. A group of choice small species on some prominent part of the Rock- Fernery is always a great attraction; and when grown for the collection shallow pans instead of pots may be recommended. Several small plants, say one in the centre and five round it, are attractive where one diminutive specimen would hardly be seen. In making the selection it may be as well to divide them into two sections, and give a list of those suitable for the green- house and those for the stove separately, but there are some greenhouse sorts which succeed equally well in the stove. 26 POLYPODIUM AMERICANUM A rare species Taken at Messrs. H. B. May & Sons’ Nursery SMALL GROWING FERNS Vd _ For the greenhouse the following are recommended, viz.— Adiantums.—The ordinary type of capillus-veneris rarely grows more than a few inches high but requires room to spread; the varieties, c.v, daphnites, and fissum form more compact masses of very short fronds. 4. Aispidulum tenellum, a pretty little Fern with brightly tinted fronds, should be well exposed. 4. venustum, as known in most gardens, is dwarf, with spreading rhizomes. Botanists now include this with thopicum, but as there are several tall, strong growing varieties these must not be confused with the one recommended. /. reniforme, a choice little species with almost circular, entire fronds; 4. rubellum, this forms a tufted mass of short fronds, which have a bright red tint changing to deep green. A. glaucophyllum forms a good contrast, being of similar habit with fronds of a soft pale green. Aspleniums.—In this genus we have some very pretty small growing species. 4. ebeneum, A. Fernandezianum, A. inequale, A. monanthemum, and A. flabellifolium may be given, also 4. palmatum, and A. fontanum. Cheilanthes farinosa, C. Alabamense, a very tiny species, C. argentea, and C. elegans, though sometimes growing to a foot or more high, is a very slow grower and one of the most beautiful. Several more of these pretty Ferns might be added, but it might be difficult to procure them. Davallias.—Most of these though they may not grow tall, spread freely. The true D. dulata has small fronds ; D. 6. Mariese is also of small growth and spreads freely ; also, D. heterophylla, this is referred to with those for growing on Tree stems. D. nova-zealande must be grown in a cool, moist condition. Doodia candata should be planted with caution, for though a pretty little Fern the seedlings spring up in all directions, and it may became a troublesome weed. 28 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE Deosdia aspera multifida will succeed in the warmest part of the house but does not like a cold draught or a dry atmosphere. Lastrea fragrans is a very delicate little Fern, but where it can be grown it is much appreciated for it is pretty and has a pleasant scent. LL. glabella, and L. lepida may be included.. Lomaria alpina, and several other slight variations make neat compact little plants. Nothochlenas.—These should be grouped together in a fairly dry open position. N. Eckloniana, though often grouped with the stove Ferns does equally well in the greenhouse. N. sinuata, N. marante, and any other species procurable are of interest, some have rather longer fronds but are slender, and never get too dense. The Pelleas include some delicate and pretty Ferns. Like the preceding none make big plants. P. ternifolia is remarkable for the peculiar growth and bluish metallic shade on the stipes and the pinne which are arranged in circles instead of having a flat surface. P. atropurpurea is another of a peculiar dark shade, P. marginata, and any others of the same genus, for none grow large. Preris,—There are several of these which belong to the sub-genus Doryopteris; of these geranifoha is a little gem, pedata grows rather larger, and pa/mata is still more vigorous, but this rarely attains to more than six or eight inches high. These will also succeed well in a higher temperature. Pieris scaberula is one of the most beautiful Ferns we have, and more resembles a Davallia until the spores appear. It'spreads freely, having slender, wiry rhizomes, though rather difficult to establish, once it finds a congenial home it will grow freely, but rarely produces spores. There are several small growing Po/podiums, these are referred to among those recommended for tree stems. NOTHOCHL.ENA RUFA tty slender growing Greenhouse Fern ake at Messrs. H.R. May & Sons Nursery SMALL FERNS FOR THE STOVE 29 SMALL FERNS FOR THE STOVE Among these we have some choice little gems which require very careful treatment. Acrostichum (or Rbipiodopteris) peltata is one that has tiny, much divided almost circular barren fronds, and the fertile fronds are entire and almost circular, with the whole surface covered with almost black sori. It requires similar treatment to the filmy Ferns; if not in a close case the pots may be plunged in a bed of fresh sphagnum moss, and the slender rhizomes spread more freely in a compost of peat, sphagnum, loam and sand, with plenty of drainage in which some lumps of charcoal may be used. Actiniopteris radiate has fronds of somewhat similar form, except that the spores are on the under side of the divided fronds; it also has a crown or tufted caudex instead of the spreading rhizomes, and does not require a close, moist atmosphere. Davallia parvula is a delicate little Fern which requires a moist atmosphere. D. pedata, though rare, will grow in a more exposed position. D. A/pina is another choice species of very small growth. Of Adiantums reniforme asarifolium is all that need be included in this list. There are other dwarf growing sorts, but they all grow freely under quite ordinary treatment. Of Aspleniums—A. formosum, A. obtusilobum, A. incisum, A. nobilis, and cicutarium, all are of fairly free growth, but like some peat with good loam sand, and good drainage. Blechnum lanceolatum, and B. longifolium and gracile, the latter having young fronds of a bronzy red hue, and the ordinary Jongifolium rarely attains to more than nine to twelve inches high and also has bronzy fronds. Cheilanthes radiata, sometimes known as adiantum, and Nothochlena, is a handsome little Fern in a young state, 30 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE but with age it gets a little stunted, spores germinate freely and it is not difficult to have a succession of young plants. There are several small growing Polypodiums, which are equally useful for the stove rockery as for growing on tree stems; and they also do well in pans with the rhizomes regulated. As they do not root deeply, plenty of drainage is essential. CHAPTER VI SPECIMEN FERNS THE very large specimens of various kinds of plants which were such a feature at our Flower Shows in years gone by, are now almost things of the past. It is true that we see some large Palms and occasionally large tree Ferns, yet the general exhibits consist of collections of smaller plants or in some cases medium sized specimens. In some shows where prizes are offered for Ferns, the size of the pots is limited to eight inches. And a larger number of fresh, healthy plants in this size is certainly more interesting than the immense specimens of former years; the smaller specimens are also much more serviceable at home, that is, for most growers. There is a wide range to select from for plants suitable for the specimens in eight inch pots, and as in most schedules it states Stove and Greenhouse Ferns some of each should always be included. From the following there will be no difficulty in making up any number from six to twenty-four good specimens. Adiantium Farleyense—A good plant of this always counts, and grown on freely, it is seen at its best when well established as a medium specimen, though it has been grown in very large pots making fronds over three feet high. 4. polyphyllum, perhaps better known as cardiochlena, has fronds of a soft green hue with a rosy tint when young; this contrasts well with 4. trapeziforme, which is of a darker hue. 4. pentadactylon, which is a slight variation of the above, has fronds of an even 31 32 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE darker hue. These two should not be included in the same collection when exhibiting. 4. Scutum and A. tenerum make fine specimens. Also 4. Williamsi, which is decidedly a greenhouse Fern. Others may be grown into large specimens, but all should be started with fresh, healthy young plants. Good specimens cannot be made of those with a number of small crowns. Acro- stichum scandens, better known perhaps as Stenochlena s., makes a fine specimen, the rhizomes run over the pots and the broad pinnate fronds of a bright green, with a bronzy tint when young, are very effective. Of Aspleniums, nidus should always be included, the broad erect fronds have a bright shining surface. This produces erial roots round the base, and some fresh sphagnum with a little artificial manure sprinkled over it will materially assist the plants while making growth. This Fern does not root deep, and good drainage should be given or it will do better in shallow pots. The best form of 4. Jiforme makes a fine plant, and if all the bulbils have been left on the older fronds they form a great attraction. 4. laxum pumilum when grown on freely, makes a fine plant, but once it gets stunted it rarely recovers. Blechnum Corcovadense is very pretty at its best but is not, usually, considered of so much value in a collection for exhibition as many other Ferns are. Crbotium Scheidei makes a grand plant, the fronds of large size are of a soft pale green above and glancous beneath, it is of rapid growth and soon makes a good specimen. The beauty of this Fern is shown off to advantage when elevated, the under side of the fronds having a pleasant hue. In Davallias we now have so many of hybrid origin that it is difficult to make a selection. D. Mooreana is one of the oldest and still a general favourite, being equally beautiful in all sizes, but for growing on for large specimens strong rhizomes must be selected to start YLOL MIN OD GP UOSAM “YM “of UlO4f VWISSIANAdNS "UVA VLVI XA sldatoy SPECIMEN FERNS 33 with. D. Fijiensis has been productive of many fine varieties : robusta is one of the best for large specimens ; and sofda superba, or ornata, may be grown for broader fronded sorts, D. epiphyl/a is a newer introduction, the thick scaly rhizomes grow erect and the broad drooping fronds produced from them are very effective. D. rufa is another which makes a fine specimen, the short thick rhizomes are thickly clothed with chestnut red scales. D. polyantha is an old favourite and one of the few which have any colour in the young fronds. Microlepia hirta cristata, is often seen in very large specimens with heavy fronds of a deep green, but to have it at its best it must be grown in an exposed position, and potted in light loamy soil, it is also necessary to start with strong single crowns. There are few Ferns which vary so much under different culture as this does, once it gets a dense mass of crowns it will be difficult to re-establish strong plants which produce the large drooping tasseled fronds. Nephrolepis.—Here again we have a difficulty owing to the numerous varieties which are constantly being added, and it will be a matter of personal choice. It is not so long ago when N. rufesceus tripinnatifida was con- sidered one of the handsomest Ferns we had, but now we rarely hear of it, for the beautiful nultifid forms of exaltata have taken its place. The old favourite, N. davallicides furcans, is still worthy of attention, and when grown under suitable conditions makes a fine specimen. In using the word “suitable” it may be explained that it will grow luxuriantly under heavy shade and in heat, but it is those which are well exposed and grown in loamy soil which make the best specimens. Of the bipinnatifid varieties of N. exaltata it is difficult to choose from, for todecides, Whitmani, and elegantissima all are good, and much depends on how they are grown. N. exaltata superba has much to recommend it, although c 34 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE it has the brown scales on the stipes and rachis which suggest its affinity to exsifoia, the authorities have put it under “ exaltata,” the fronds of this stand up so well. PLatycertmus.—These are dealt with under a separate heading pretty fully, and it only needs to be said that one or more of these should be included. Grande for choice, but stemmaria also makes a fine specimen, even the old Alcicorne may be regarded as a useful plant when well grown. In Polypediums one of the finest is P. Mayi which is a plumose form of glaucum or sporodocarpum. ‘There is some confusion in regard to the last two named, and it may be said that in what appears to be the true sporcdocarpum the fronds standerect, and therhizomesare almost destitute of scales, while, in g/aucum it may be described as a smaller form of aureum and has fronds which droop over grace- fully ; they all make good specimens and give a good contrast in colour among those of green shades. PP. glaucum cristatium is also a desirable variety. Gymmgrammas do not, as a rule, make specimens of sufficient size, yet they may, under good treatment, be grown on into large specimens with graceful fronds which are quite a contrast to the large specimens with a mass of tufted crowns sometimes seen. Of the various sorts the best golden form is G. chrysophylla, but of this numerous varieties occur, and for specimens it needs careful selection. Laucheana is one of the best varieties. Of those with the silvery farina G. peruviana agyrophylla is still the best, but there are several of the sulphur tint or intermediate varieties which grow more robust and make larger fronds. Gheichenias.—These are more difficult to manage as speci- mens but where possible they should be included, G. dichotoma stove and G, dicarpa longipinnata, are perhaps the best and most distinct but all may be grown into specimens, see notes on the genus. Most of the Preris which can be TREE FERNS a6 grown into large specimens are too common for special work. One which makes a fine specimen is P. serrulata major gloriosa; this is an improvement on the well known Chiswick variety. Woodwardia radicans makes a good specimen but takes some years to attain to full maturity. Tree Ferns are always appreciated in collections, and those of moderate size are more decorative than the older plants with tall stems. Freshness is one of the great points which should be considered, this together with choice sorts will carry more points than size of plants. TREE FERNS All Ferns with erect stems (or elongated caudex) come under this heading, they vary considerably both in height and size. The smallest is the brightly tinted Lomaria L’ Herminieri, and the species making the largest or rather highest stem is Dicksonia antarctica, We get them from the tropical and temperate regions, and it is re- markable that none appear to be indigenous in Europe; the nearest we have is the Royal Fern (Osmunda Regalis), which is found in Devonshire with the caudex from a foot to eighteen inches long and nearly if not quite erect. And like many of the tree-ferns it delights in a moist boggy position, or the banks of a running stream with the tips of the roots in the water. Of all the various species the most popular is Dicksonia antarctica. This though attaining to a height of 20 feet or more and producing fronds from 4 to 5 feet long and about 2 feet broad, is equally desirable in a smaller state. Seeedlings about a year old make pretty little plants. The largest plants from English raised seedling that I have seen have been from four to six feet high, and these must have been a good many years old. The very tall stems are imported from Australia, where they grow luxuriously on the mountain slopes. We hear of them being covered 36 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE with snow, but the cold period is only of short duration, and to succeed with it here it requires greenhouse treat- ment, with atmospheric moisture. This and other tree- ferns may be considerably assisted by binding some fresh sphagnum moss round the stem below the fronds as the stem advances. The use of sphagnum round the pots may also be recommended, and during the growing season the stems should be kept continually moist, but they do not thrive if the roots are in stagnant moisture ; good drainage should be given. Other species are D. jfibrosa, D. Lathomi, and D. squarrosa; the latter has a slender stem and does not make the aerial roots so freely. Alsophila Australis, and A. excelsa make fine speci- mens; Cyathea dealbata and C. medullaris may also be recommended. Blechnum Braziliense makes a fine plant of intermediate size and is also desirable as a small plant. B. corcovadense differs from the above only in having a beautiful pink tint on the young fronds, and may be regarded as the most desirable of the two. Brainea insigne is another of medium growth. I have not seen this more than about three feet in height; it has fronds of good substance, and, when young, they have a bronzy tint. Lomaria gibba will attain to five or six feet in height, but is prettier either when quite small, or up to the time the stem has reached about two feet in height. Up to the time it has made some stem it will grow freely under ordinary greenhouse treatment, but after the stem lengthens it requires more care. There are several distinct varieties of this fern. Of these platyptera, robusta, and crispa are among the best; there are also some which appear to be hybrids between gibba and cthata, of these grandis, princeps, and major are the best, though given as varieties of Ciiata they have some of the characteristics of gibba. L. falcata bipinnatifida makes a beautiful plant with feather-like fronds. I have raised this from spores and have had some true TREE FERNS 37 to character, but they vary very much; the only sure method is to root the offsets from the stem. L. attenuata, which has soft green fronds with a rosy pink shade when young, can be propagated in the same manner. Sphag- num moss with some sand mixed with it, if bound round the base, will secure some roots before taking the young plants off from the parent. Although the Tree-ferns love atmospheric moisture below, most of them will bear exposure to the sun, and heavy shading is injurious, especially during the Autumn. CHAPTER VII FLowerinc FERNS THE term ‘Flowering Fern,” though not strictly correct, is commonly applied to those which have their fructification disposed in a conspicuous manner, and include the Anemias and Osmundas, as described below. The Anemias and Anemidictyons are now all included in the first named genus. ‘These all have pinnate fronds with rather long stipes (or stalks). The fructification, or fertile portion, being confined to the two lower pinne; these are rather elongated and grow erect, and being destitute of the leafy green have all the appear- ance of flower spikes. They require rather careful treatment, and under the best conditions they get rather shabby with age, and seedlings should be raised to keep up a succession of healthy plants. The spores should be collected as soon as the fertile portion begins to change colour, and will germinate freely. under ordinary treat- ment. In growing the young plants on, they will be more effective if several are potted together, but they should not be crowded up in a bunch. They should be given a light porous compost and good drainage. They may all be grown on in a stove temperature, but after being well established, 4. phyllitidis, which is also known as fraxinifolia, will do well in a greenhouse, and will survive the winter when planted in a sheltered position on the rockery, yet it is safer in the unheated greenhouse. A. tomentosa, also known as ferruginea and flexuosa, though 38 POLYPODIUM (AGLAOMORKPHA) MEVENIANUM (* The Bear's Paw” Fern) FLOWERING FERNS 39 usually included with the stove species, will succeed in the greenhouse. Of those which require stove treatment A. collina is one of the most desirable. The stipes and surface of the fronds are densely clothed with short brownish hairs. 4. rotundifolia is remarkably distinct, and at first sight reminds one of Adiantum lunulatum. The drooping pinnate fronds have an elongated extremity from which young plants are produced. The fertile portion is produced in the same manner as the other Anemias; the fronds have a bronzy-brown tint when young. This should be grown suspended, and young plants may be established from the bulbs at the extremities of the fronds, which may be rooted into small pots before severing them from the parent plant. 4. Dregiana is a pretty, small-growing species with woolly fronds; the fertile portion is not quite so much extended as in most species. There are several other species which are not often met with under cultivation. This may be due to the fact that they rarely live for more than two or three years, and require treating as annuals, Osmunpas.—These are nearly all deciduous, and in most of them the fructifications are on the terminal pinne of the fronds. The largest species is our native Royal Fern, O. regalis. In this the fronds attain in size according to age. They may have fertile fronds when not more than fifteen to eighteen inches high, but older specimens grow to three or four feet, and form a hard, woody trunk. The North American O. gracilis varies very much in size, and also in the colour of its fronds. Among imported plants, we find some of a soft green, and others with dark rachis and stipes and a red tint on the young fronds, ‘Thhis is described as growing luxuri- ously in swampy places, where it covers large tracts of land. A friend, writing, speaks of it as being seen as abundant in North America, as our Bracken is here in 40 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE England, O. palustris (or Japonica) closely resembles gracilis, except that it is not quite so hardy, and is ever- green. It is one of the most desirable ferns we have; the young fronds have bright rosy stipes and a bronzy shade on the leafy portion. O. Javanica is another evergreen species; in this the spores are produced irregularly on the side pinnae. O. Claytoniana is another which has some leafy pinnz above the contracted fertile portion; in ciznamomea the fertile fronds stand erect in the centre of the plant. The Osmundas all delight in a rather moist position, and ‘should have fibrous or a boggy compost. They make roots above the surface, or what are termed zrial roots, which derive nourishment from surface moisture, and delight in moist sphagnum moss, applied at intervals, with a little artificial manure sprinkled amongst it. Although they like moisture, stagnation must be avoided, and they should be fully exposed to the light, and no moisture on the surface of the fronds should be given. O. Javanica is the only species requiring much warmth. O. palustris will grow freely in heat, and will also succeed under cool treatment. Other species are hardy, but should have some protection such as is provided in a natural state, by their own decayed fronds, during frosty weather. There are several other species which might be included in this chapter. The curious little RAzpido- pleris peltata is an example; the barren fronds are much divided, and nearly circular, on slender stems, and the fronds have two small, nearly circular, lobes, with the spores covering their surfaces. This requires similar treatment to that given for the stove filmy ferns. There are several others belonging to the same order, Acrostichea, in which the fertile fronds are congested and the spore cases conspicuous. ‘CLIMBING FERNS 41 Cuirmsinc Ferns There are not a great many which are of a distinctly climbing habit. The Lygediums are the most prominent, but it is not an extensive genus. There are about six useful species, and of these L. Japonicum is the most popular, and is grown extensively for market, both for cutting from and as pot plants. Previous to having the Asparagus in long trails, and the smilux, it was much in demand, and even now it is appreciated, and for the Fernery, for covering pillars, there is no prettier subject. I may here state that for a long time this was known in nurseries as L. scandens, but the true scandens, though a pretty Fern, is not so useful. L. dichotomum is of much larger proportions, and will grow to a great length, twining round any support that comes in its way. LL. microphyllum and L. palmatum are slender growing. The latter comes from America, where it is very popular, being used both in a dry state and also fresh cut for decorations. In the culture of the Lygodiums they all require some attention. To keep the scandent fronds in order they must be regulated. Japonicum, when grown for cutting from, should have strings; a wire run along about five or six feet above the pots, and slender strings brought down and fixed with a peg into the pots. Once started from the base, the slender growths will twine round without much attention; but if they get entwined together, it will be very difficult to separate them. As pot plants they may be grown on a single stick, or three sticks put in close to the rims of the pots and tied together at the top. In the Fernery, standing above the dwarfer sorts, they make a nice relief. Where space permits, L. dichotomum should be planted out. Rough fibrous loam, leaf mould, to which may be added a liberal addition of coarse sand, and a little well- 42 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE dried stable manure, is a compost in which they will thrive. Some recommend peat, but if the loam is fibrous it is not necessary. For the slender growing sorts good drainage should be given. Some are semi-deciduous, and if the old fronds are cut away just as the new ones begin to start it will save much trouble later. This applies particu- larly to Japonicum. The plants may be kept cool during the winter, and when given a little warmth early in the year they soon start to throw up young fronds from the root-stocks. They should be kept fairly moist, other- wise thrips may be troublesome. Stenochlena scandens. —This is a free-growing Fern with rather large pinnate fronds produced on fleshy rhizomes at some distance apart. Grown on a moist wall it is very effective, and it is also a useful Fern for large baskets, In large Fern Rockeries it may be planted at the base, and will spread rapidly. It will not bear exposure quite so well as some, but will grow in any ordinary Fern compost. When growing freely they will require regulating, and it may be necessary to fix the rhizomes to the wall. For a large space, where the wall has been covered with moss, etc., it makes a fine show. Davallia aculeata may be included in the list, but it requires some support, and it is rather difficult to grow successfully. Davallia heterophylla may also be treated as a climbing Fern, though it is more suited for covering tree seams, under which mode it is referred to. CHAPTER VIII Fitmy Ferns Awmonc those included under the above title, we have many widely-distinct Ferns, but all have one character- istic—that is, their fronds are semi-transparent, and all delight in a moist, cool atmosphere. It is probably owing to the fact that they require exceptional treat- ment that they are not more generally grown than they are, for under favourable conditions they grow freely and are peculiarly attractive. There is also the advan- tage of not having to provide heat. The lovely Todea superba may have the globules of water on the surface of their fronds frozen into ice without doing any harm. Their chief requirements are a close, moist atmosphere, and for this reason they may be specially recomfmended to be grown in glass cases, and will do well in the house, as they require only a moderate amount of light and must not be exposed to the sun. When grown ex- tensively, a deep grotto may be formed, with a glass roof, and if this can be done under a north wall, all the better. The sides may be built up with rough sand- stones, porous bricks, or tufa stone may be used, with spaces for old tree roots, rough peat, and sphagnum moss; old tree fern stems cut up, and some leaf mould, may be added. The finest plants of Todea superba I have seen were growing round the sides of a deep pit built of bricks, with a glass covering. Here the large plants were luxuriating, and numerous seedlings were springing up among them. 43 44 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE As a proof of the hardships the filmys will go through, I may mention that I once received some imported clumps of Trichomanes reniforme, and although they had been a con- siderable time on the journey they had suffered but little, and after being put into pans with suitable compost (which consisted of rough peat, broken crocks, charcoal, sphag- num moss, and small stones), placed in a close, shady position, they soon started into new growth, and con- tinued to grow freely. Todea pellucida did not succeed quite so well, but some survived the journey, and good plants were established. Although there are a good many distinct species, they are all included in about three or four genera. The Todeas make larger plants. The most beautiful is 7. superba, which has a tufted caudex, and a regular whorl of fronds which are tripinnatifid and cut up into very narrow segments, It is difficult to describe the exquisite beauty of this fern. 7. Fraseri is another beautiful species, which has fronds from one to two feet long, and of rather more substance than most of the filmys; and belonging to the same genus is one with very thick fronds. This is Tobea barbara, also known as arborea, Africana, Vromii, and rivularis; this is not included with the filmies, but flourishes best where the roots find plenty of moisture. Trichomanes radicans (The Killarney Fern) is one of the best types of this genus, and is found in England, but in some localities it has been exterminated. It is, however, more common in Ireland, and widely distributed over other parts of the world. There are a good many species of this pretty filmy Fern. 7. remforme is a very distinct species, forming large masses of deep green, nearly circular, entire fronds, which are produced from slender, spreading rhizomes ; T. angustatum, T. trichodium, and others, with small fronds cut down into fine thread-like filaments. TZ. Javanicum has a more tufted caudex and erect pinnate fronds. All of those Huyumenetshatluam urre demiss FILMY FERN Hymenophyllum demissum A pretty species from New Zealand FILMY FERNS 45 with the spreading rhizomes should be planted where they can spread over moist sandstones or other material that the roots can cling to. They require but very little depth of soil. The Hymenophyllums, which include the Tunbridge Wells Fern (HA. tunbridgense) was formerly more plentiful in the neighbourhood of Tunbridge Wells and also in other parts of England, but is rarely found in a wild state, except in Ireland. ‘There are a good many species, and most of which are nearly if not quite hardy. Nearly all have spreading rhizomes and very fine thread-like roots, which do not penetrate far, and only require a shallow depth of loose decayed leaves, peat, and moss to root into. Although loving moisture, good drainage should be given, and some charcoal may be used. ‘They are particularly suited for spreading over the stones of the rock Fernery, but some soil, chiefly leaf mould and moss, should be used in the crevices. CHAPTER IX TINTED AND VARIEGATED FERNS Ir is usual to regard Ferns as having only sombre hues of green, yet it is remarkable what bright tints may be developed under proper treatment. Before enumerating the varieties, it may be remarked that with almost all which give colour, light and exposure are essential. Observation will prove that those which are of a deep green like more shade, while those with the red, or bronzy tints, may be exposed to the sun; and it is only when well exposed that they develop the brightest hues. Take the beautiful Adiantum Farleyense. Under shade it will grow and make fronds of a deep green, yet when started and grown on with little or no shade the young fronds will have a soft salmon pink shade, and the plants may be used for decorations and will not suffer so much as those grown under shade. One of the brightest tinted Ferns is Adiantum tetraphyllum gracile. This requires stove treatment, and is rarely seen, but it is one of the most beautiful Ferns we have. 4. Veitchi is another which colours well, the young fronds being almost as bright as Dracaena terminalis. A. macrophyllum colours well, and the variegated variety is remarkably bright. 4. macrophyllum bipimatum has rather more of a bronzy-brown shade, though when quite young it is very bright. 4. scutum roseum, A. rubellum, A. tinctum, and A. cyclosorum colour well. The colour of all the above, though very bright when the fronds are young, gradu- 46 TINTED AND VARIEGATED FERNS 47 ally changes to green with age. 4. hispidulum tenellum and A. rhodophyllum may also be included. In the Davallias we do not get much colour, D. poly- antha being an exception; this has quite a purple shade in the young fronds. There is also a bronzy tint in some varieties of D. Fijiensis. Blechnum corcovadense is very brightly tinted even when quite young. Doodia aspera multifida has a bright rosy-red tint, changing to deep green. In the Gymmnogrammas we get the golden and silver tints. There are a good many varieties of G. chrysophylla, grandiceps superba being one of the best. In G. Alstonie the pinnules curl inwards, and show off the golden under surface. The best Silver Fern is G. pemviana argyro- phylla, and of this there are several variable forms. G. wettenhalliana is the best crested form. Lomaria L’ Her- iniera is one of the most beautiful of all the tinted Ferns. Lastrea erythrosora, L. varia, and L. opaca are brightly tinted. In LZ. aristata variegata we have one of the best variegated Ferns. Leucostegia (Davallia) immersa gives a pale straw green, with a bronze tint when young, but this has a darker green shade when not fully exposed to the light. Osmunada palustris forms a striking contrast to our English Royal Fern (O. Regals), as the fronds are bright rosy tinted when young and change to deep green. In the Polpodiums we have several distinct shades. P. appendiculatum is of a deep bronzy shade, while in P. sporadocarpum we have a soft glaucous shade, with a bluish metallic tint, yet most of this genus have green fronds. In the Preris we get the most distinctly variegated forms. P. tricolor is one of the most beautiful Ferns we have. It has a beautiful red shade when well grown. This rarely makes a large plant, and over-potting must be avoided and the fronds must not be wetted. A cold 48 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE drip from the roof will cause discolouration of the fronds. P. nemoralis variegata, in addition to the white linear variegation, has a rosy tint in the young fronds; while in P. argyrea the white linear marking is more decided, and the green of a very soft shade. P. cretica albo-lineata is now more popular than formerly, and there are several good crested forms of this; Alexandre is one of the best. P. Victorie and P. Regine are good variegated Ferns, but when raised from spores they vary consider- ably, and there are some pretty crested forms of these Ferns. P. aspericaulis is of a dark bronzy tint. Dory- opteris nobilis is one which must be included. The above is not quite a complete list of the varie- gated Ferns, but it includes most of those under ordinary cultivation. CuorcE FERNS FOR THE STOVE Some of our most beautiful Ferns are of little service except to be grown in the stove. A long list of choice sorts might be given. Those named below are among the most effective. In the Adiantums there are many varieties. A. curvatum is one of the most beautiful, of medium size, with curved prinz. It has spreading rhizomes, and requires a light porous compost. The surface of the fronds should be kept quite free from moisture. This does not come freely from spores, but may be increased by divisions. A. macrophyllum bipinnatum.—This is another beautiful Fern which has failed to reproduce from spores, though what appear to be good fertile fronds are produced in abundance. This has spreading root-stocks, which may be divided. For dividing the choice sorts the best time is in the spring, after they have started into active growth: great care must be taken not to expose them to the cold or allow the roots to get dry, and the compost OSMUNDA MAYI A variegaied variety of ©. palustris ken at Messrs. H. B. May & Sons’ Nursery CHOICE FERNS FOR THE STOVE 49 must be as warm as the temperature of the house where the Ferns are growing. Onychium auratum.—This is a most beautiful Fern, with very finely cut fronds. A very short exposure to the cold will cause the fronds to discolour (or turn black). It is curious that the yellow spore masses which are produced in such great abundance, nearly always prove abortive. I have raised some seedlings, yet the only really good batch I ever had was from a small portion of a fertile frond received from India. As this Fern rarely has but a single crown, it is only from spores that it can be propagated. And it may be added that Onychium Japonicum, which is nearly hardy, though producing spores very sparsely, they germinate freely, and this Fern may also be propa- gated by divisions of the spreading rhizomes. A splenium marginatum.—This is a beautiful and distinct species, but very tender. It has large pinnate fronds of a beautiful soft pale green. It can only be propagated from spores: these germinate freely. It was from spores from an old botanical collection of dried specimens that it was re-established in this country after being lost for some years. This Fern will withstand a little cold better than it will a dry, arid atmosphere. It also requires careful attention to watering. Acrostichum aureum.—This is another distinct stove Fern, with long pinnate fronds of a thick fleshy nature ; it may be regarded as a semi-aquatic, for it does best when standing over a tank where the tips of the roots can touch the water. Acrostichum osmundaceum is a very distinct Fern. Before the fertile fronds appear it has the appearance of being allied to Polystichum coriaceum, but the fertile portions of the fronds are congested and covered with spore cases. ‘The fronds are produced from thick scaly rhizomes. D 50 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE Hymenodium crinitum—This is by some authors in- cluded with the Acrostichums. It has broad entire (undivided) fronds covered with rather long brown hairs. ‘These are produced from a single crown, which is covered with brownish scales. Gymnoogramma schizophilla gloriosa.—This, though re- ferred to elsewhere, should be included here, as it is only in the stove where it is seen to advantage. Marattia Cooperi is a Fern rarely seen, which makes a fine plant when grown under favourable conditions in the stove. It should be potted in good loam, and may be increased by the offsets which will come from the base of the matured fronds; it will be found a little difficult to sever them, and it is best to put some sphagnum and sand round for them to root into before taking them off. Davallia tenuifolia Veitchiana should be included in this list. It is one of the most beautiful of the genus, and should be found in all choice collections. Doryopteris (Pteris) nobilis is another grand stove Fern, which requires rather careful treatment. D. ludens may also be mentioned as a most distinct and attractive species. The barren fronds are broad and of irregular shape: those producing spores are palmate, and have longer stipes. CHAPTER X Ferns For Hancinc-BaskeTs THERE is no better way of growing many Ferns than in hanging-baskets suspended from the roof of the Fernery, and in this manner their fullest beauty is developed. I could give a long selection of varieties suitable for the purpose. For those to be grown fully exposed to the sun and light, the Nephrolepis are the most suitable. I can only mention a few here. The most popular is exa/tata, known in America as ‘¢ The Boston Fern.” For larger baskets, ensifoha, which will make fronds fully six feet long, may be recommended. The newer varieties, such as todaoides, elegantissima, Fosteri, and Whitmanit, are all suitable. For smaller baskets, pectinata is one of the best, though it is not quite so hardy as PAiippinensis, which is also a slender form, but has not quite such a light drooping habit. Davallicides isa beautiful Fern with very long, drooping fronds, but only suitable for the stove. Gontophlebium subauriculatum, when suspended in the stove, will make fronds fully six feet long; in fact, under genial conditions, the same fronds seem to continually extend. Asplenium longissimum is another which can only be grown in a suspended basket. This, I may mention, should have some peat or light soil. I have seen it with fronds (hang- ing down) which were fully eight feet long. Asplenium caudatum is a similar species, and perhaps the most desir- able, as it will grow freely under cooler treatment, and is one of the prettiest Ferns we have for baskets. Any of the bulbiferous section do well in baskets; the gr 52 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE best for the purpose being flaccidum, and for small baskets obtusilobum is a pretty species. This makes long, slender stolons (or runners), like a strawberry, on which young plants are produced. In Adiantums we have some which make very pretty basket plants. 4. assimile is one of the best. 4. Moorei, perhaps better known as 4. amabile by many, is another fine basket Fern, but has the disadvantage of being semi-deciduous. For small baskets, 4. ciliatum, also known as Edgworthi, and A. dolabriforme, are very pretty, producing young plants at the extremities of each frond, and these young plants will go on reproducing again while they are on the parent. When hung in a position where there is heat and a little atmospheric moisture, they make very pretty subjects for hanging- baskets, There are many other Adiantums which do well; even 4. Farleyense, if properly treated, makes a handsome Basket-Fern. Many of the Davallias are particularly suited for the purpose, for where the rhizomes can spread they soon cover the whole surface. Among the best are D. dissecta, D. decora, D. bullata, Tyermanni, and Griffithiana. The Japanese variety of bullata, known as Mariesi, though deciduous, is one of the best. The new fronds are produced very soon after the old ones have died off. D. immersa (more generally known as Leucostegia immersa) makes a pretty Basket-Fern: this is deciduous, and remains dormant all through the winter. The rhizomes will run all through the soil, and even when grown in pots, if they can get through the bottom, they will do so and make fronds, Gymnogramma schizophylla gloriosa is a very handsome Fern, but only succeeds well in the stove. Platycerium alcicorne (the ordinary Stag’s-horn Fern) may be recommended. It may take some time, yet when the roots do get through, young plants will POLYPODIUM KNIGHTLE A handsome Fern for baskets FERNS FOR WALL POCKETS 53 soon cover the whole surface. P. Willincki is another fine fern for the purpose. In filling fern baskets it is necessary to use some moss; the thin flakes are the best. If too much is used, the soil becomes loose after it decays a little. For those with the spreading rhizomes, sphagnum should be used, For the Nephrolepis, and any others which do not cover the under side of the baskets, a few young plants of Ficus repens will soon make a nice green covering. Water may be given more liberally to Ferns grown in hanging-baskets, and where convenient the best manner is to dip them in a tank or any other receptacle large enough to do it without damaging the fronds, FERNS FOR WALL PockETs Walls are sometimes built with special bricks, which form. troughs for planting Ferns in: it may be less trouble and more convenient to make pockets. They can be formed of virgin cork, fixed on boards of suitable length to form the backs, or may be made wholly of the cork. Select flat pieces for the backs, and the curled or half- circular pieces cut to form the pockets; when properly fixed together with wire, the pockets will last for a long period; they should be made in sizes suitable for the various Ferns used, and the selection will depend upon the space they have to cover. Any of the Adiantums which have spreading rhizomes may be used. On a shady wall in a cool-house the varieties of capillus veneris do well; the varieties Mariesi and O’Brieni grow larger than the ordinary type, and, where space permits, do well; magnificum and imbricatum are the best of those, with shorter fronds; 4. assimile is a pretty species, which spreads freely ; 4. amabile (or Moorei) is another 54 THE BOOK OF FERN CULTURE which does well; many of the Davalias do well; D. dissecta is one of the best for the purpose; D. Tyermanni, which has long silvery rhizomes and small dark green fronds ; and Mariesi do well in an intermediate tempera- ture. For the warmer house, Griffthiana spreads freely, and the rhizomes, with silvery gray scales, are very con- spicuous. D. Assamicais another. The numerous varieties of D. Fiyiensis are all useful; they vary much in size, and with some the rhizomes are shorter. D. ornata makes larger fronds, and has spreading rhizomes. Others might also be selected. The Platyceriums are referred to else- where, but it may be mentioned here that they should always be used when it is desired to cover a wall attrac- tively. For larger pockets, Stenochlena scandens is a fine Fern. Asplenium longissimum makes very long, drooping fronds, and does well when hanging against a wall. Asplenium caudatum is similar in growth, but has rather broader fronds, and the pinne are deeply serrated. Nephrolepis davallicides is another which makes very long drooping fronds. Most of the other species may also be recommended. Goniophlebunn subauriculatum, when sus- pended, does well. In the Fernery at the Royal Gardens, Kew, some years ago there was a plant hanging against a wall which had fronds fully six feet long, but it is not often that such specimens are seen. Any of the Ferns mentioned among those recommended for suspended baskets will succeed in the pockets. When filling the pockets, fresh, healthy young plants should be selected rather than large plants, which, though giving an immediate effect, do not succeed so well later. With those having a tufted crown, two or more plants may be used for each pocket. Sphagnum moss should be used to fill up any crevices where the cork does not fit close; and it may be mentioned that it is an advantage to have some openings for those which produce young plants from the root bulbils. PLATYCERIUM GRANDE Grown on cork Taken at Messrs. H. B. May & Sons’ Nursery FERNS FOR WALL POCKETS 55 With the hanging pockets watering will be an im- portant matter. More attention will be required than for those grown in pots, and though excess must be avoided, with ordinary treatment they will not be likely to suffer from over-watering. CHAPTER XI Ferns ON TREE STEMS THERE are many of the slender-growing Ferns with spreading rhizomes which may be most effectively shown when grown on straight or branched tree stems. These may be of various heights and dimensions. Where the dead tree-fern trunks can be procured they are the most serviceable—hollowed out at the top—for putting in a good plant, and the stem covered with sphagnum moss, with which may be mixed a little peat and sand. This, bound on with fine copper wire, will provide good material for the rhizomes to root into. In. preparing ordinary tree stems, a receptacle may be provided at the top by fixing a few split hazel rods. These may come down the whole length of the stem, and the space between will give more room for the moss, etc. The size of the stems should be regulated according to the growth of the Ferns they are intended for. Another method which may be recommended for those requiring more root-room is to form cork pockets on the stems. A matter of importance is to fix the stems on a good base. They are often fixed in flower-pots, but as these are liable to get broken, it is better to use tubs of suitable sizes, or a good base may be formed by fixing the stems on a thick piece of wood, and about three brackets screwed on the stem and base to keep it firm; the base may be built up with soil and moss, on which may be planted some of the mossy Se/aginellas or 56 POLYPODIUM VENOSUM Grown on tree-stem FERNS ON TREE STEMS 57 Ficus repens ; or small erect growing Ferns round the base make a nice finish. Taking the most suitable sorts—any that have the spreading stolons, or rhizomes, may be employed. Among those particularly adapted for the purpose are Davallia heterophylla. This will soon cover a fairly large stem. Davallia pedata is suitable for a short stem. Davallia parvula is a lovely little Fern. A stem about 18 inches high will suit this best, and it loves a moist, shady position and a moderate stove temperature. The Drymoglossums are all suitable. Of those specially useful are piloselloides, car- nosum, and spathulatum. ‘These may have stems from two tothree feet in height. Many of the Polypodiums might be named. Of those specially suitable are venosum, squamu- losum, nitidum, glaucum, serpens (often seen in gardens under the name of Niphobolus rupestres). There are also several usually found under the name of Pleopeltis; of these, piloselloides, repens, and vaccinifolium. Of the last-named there is a variety a/bum, with silvery grey fronds. All spread freely, and soon cover a moderate-sized stem. Niphobolus heteractis will cover a fair-sized stem, but does not spread so rapidly as some. Major, 36, 86. 33 Princeps, 36, 86. falcata bipinnatifida, 36. gibba, 36, 86. 3» ¢erispa, 36. »» Platyptera, 9, 86. 3, robusta, 36. L’Herminieri, 35, 47. Pattersoni elongata, 86, procera, 86. spicant, 60. Lygodium— dichotomum, 41. Japonicum, 22, 41. microphyllum, 41. palmatum, 41. scandens, 41. M. Marattia— Cooperi, 50. Microlepia— hirta cristata, 33. N. Nephrolepis— Bausei, 20, 22. cordata compacta, 77. + tessellata, 77. davallioides, 51, 54, 77. v4 furcans, 33, 77. Duffi, 77. ensifolia, 51, 77. exaltata, 51, 76. » elegantissima, 33, 51, 76. »» Piersoni, 76. »» superba, 33, 76. 3, superbissima, 76. 3 todxvides, 33, 77. »> Whitmani, 33, 51, 76. Fosteri, 51, 78. Mayi, 77. INDEX Nephrolepis— pectinata, 51, 57, 77. 9 caniculata, 76. Philippinense, 51, 77. rufescens, 77. is tripinnatifida 5 Zollingeriana, 77. ne Niphobolus— heteractio, 57. rupestris, 57. Nothochlzena— Eckloniana, 28, Maranta, 28. sinuata, 28. oO. Onochlea— sensibilis, 97. Onychium— auratum, 49. Japonicum, 49. Osmunda— cinnamomea, 40, 97. Claytoniana, 40, 97. gracilis, 39, 97. Javanica, 4o. palustris, 47. Regalis, 35. P. Pellea— atropurpurea, 28. marginata, 28. ternifolia, 28. Phlebodium— aureum, 81. glaucum, 82. sporodocarpum, 82. Platycerium— ZEthopicum, 58, 80. Alcicorne, 34, 52, 63, 79. 56 majus, 80. Angolense, 81. biforme, 81. lil Platycerium— grande, 34, 80. Hilli, ae stemmaria, 80, wees 81. Willincki, 53, 58, 80. Pleopeltis— i phymatodes, 83. Piloselloides, 57, repens, 57. vaccinifolium, 57. a album, 57. Polypodium— appendiculatum, 47, 82. aureum, 62, 81, cambricum, 93. dryopteris, 93. glaucophyllum, 81. glaucum, 34, 57, 82. A cristatum, 34. x» _Mayi, 34, 82. irioides, 82. Meyenianum, 82. nigrescens, 82. nitidum, 57. phegopteris, 93. quercifolium, 82. Schneideri, 82. serpens, 57. sporodocarpum, 34, 47, 82. squamulosum, 57. subauriculatum, 82. trichamanoides, 93. venosum, 57. vulgare, 93. polyelehan aculeatum, 94. 95 pulcherrimum, 94. acrostichoides, 97. ” grandiceps, 97. angulare, 94. 9 plumosum, 94. ” proliferum, 94. capense, 68. coreaceum, 68, louchitis, 95. pulcherrimum, 94. setulosum, 68, 98. 112 THE BOOK OF Pteris— cretica, 60, 84, » albo-lineata, 48, 85. Alexandra, 48, 62, 85. Major, 84. » os» Mayi, 85. » 3 Wimsetti, 84. aquilina, 96. argyrea, 48, 85, 96. aspericaulis, 48, 85. geranifolia, 28. longifolia, 85. ” Mariesi, 85. nemoralis variegata, 48, 85. palmata, 28, pedata, 28. Reginz, 48, 85. yy _- cFistata, 85. scaberula, 16, 28, 85. serrulata, 10, 84. os major, 84. ” 3, gloriosa, 35 tremula, 62, 85. 9» flaccida, 85. >, Smithi, 85, tricolor, 47, 85. Victoriz, 48, 85. R. Rhipidopteris— peltata, 48. Ss. Scolopendrium— vulgare, 63, 91. ss Coolingi, 92. x3 ~—«erispum, 92. 3) eristatum viviparum, 92. », Kelwayi, 4, 92. Selaginellas— ameena, 100. apoda, 100. apus, 100, Browni, 99. FERN CULTURE Selaginellas— cxsia, 10r. x, Arborea, 99. caulescens, 100. cuspidata, 100. Emiliana, roo. erythropus, 102. formosum, 100, grandis, ror. hamatodes, 102, Kraussiana, 99. 5 aurea, 99. 3 variegata, 99. levigata, 99. leipodophylla, 102. Lyalli, 102. Martensi, 100, perelegans, 102. Poulteri, 100. serpens, 100. umbrosa, 102. uncinata, 101, Victoriz, 102. Wildenovi, 99. Stenochleana— scandens, 32, 42, 54- Struthiopteris— orientalis, 98. T. Todea— Fraseri, 44. pellucida, 44. superba, ‘i teicher angustatum, 44. Javanicum, 44. radicans, 44. trichodium, 44, Ww. Woodwardia— orientalis, 8, 24. radicans, 8, 24, 35. FERNS PERFEOTION CLAY'S FERTILIZER PLANT FOOD. Indispensable for Growth and for producing all... FOLIAGE, FLOWERS, FRUITS & VEGETABLES in profusion and excellence It is SAFE, QUICK, LASTING, and UNSURPASSED for ALL HORTICULTURAL PURPOSES AY. Sold everywhere in o s Tins, 6d, and 1/-; Sealed Bags: 7 Ibs., 2/6; r4 Ibs., 4/6; 28 lbs., 7/6; 56 lbs., 12/6; 112 Ibs., 20/-. sylonoong, Or direct from the Works, carriage paid in the United aw Kingdom for Cash with Order (except 6d. Tins). “ey 1s 48 Every Genuine Tin, Bag, and Seal bears the FRADE MARK Trade Mark. CLAY’S SUCCESSFUL GARDENING contains directions for use, and instructions on all Horti- cultural topics by Eminent Writers. Illustrated, En- larged, and Revised. 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