a Cornell Aniversity Library BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Henrg W. Sage 1891 5896-1 RETURN TO ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY ITHACA, N. Y. | ornell University Library utch bulbs and gardens, Cornell University The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003364886 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS UNIFORM WITH THIS VOLUHE GARDENS OF ENGLAND By E. T. COOK WITH 20 FULL-PAGE ILLUS- TRATIONS IN COLOUR BY BEATRICE PARSONS A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. AGENTS America . THe Macmittan Company 64 & 66 Firry Avenus, New York AusTraLasia THE Oxrorp University Press 205 Frrnpers Lane, MeLpourne Canaba Tue Macmitcan Company or Canapa, Ltp, 27 RichmMonp Street West, Toronto INDIA » Macmittan & Company, Lip: Macmitran Buitpinc, BomsBay 309 Bow Bazaar Street, Carcutta SSRN a HET LOO DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS PAINTED BY MIMA NIXON DESCRIBED BY UNA SILBERRAD anv SOPHIE LYALL LONDON ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1909 A TO MY DEAREST FRIEND GERTRUDE CROFTON IN MEMORY OF HAPPY DAYS SPENT IN HOLLAND WHICH WE SAW TOGETHER FOR THE FIRST TIME MIMA NIXON. PREFACE Miss Nixon wishes me to present her humble duty and thanks to Her Majesty, the Queen of the Netherlands, for graciously honouring her with the permission to make drawings of Her Majesty’s Summer Palace and Gardens at Het Loo. Miss Nixon also wishes me to thank His Excellency Baron Sistema van Groévestins for his kindness in procuring for her the privilege of access to the Royal Gardens at Het Loo, and to thank the Rt. Hon. Sir Horace Rumbold, Bart., P.C., G.C.B., G.C.M.G., for his kind help. Her thanks are also due to Mr. W. H. Wind, Her Majesty's Head Gardener at Het Loo; to Miss van der Laan, Bennebroek ; and to Messrs. Tubergen, Kersten, Krelager, Roozen, and the other growers at Haarlem. vii vill DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS I wish to thank Mr. Thomas Hoog of Haarlem, who helped me in the compiling of the following pages by supplying much valuable information, which I trust I have not too greatly mishandled. UNA L. SILBERRAD. March 1, 1909. CONTENTS By UNA L, SILBERRAD CHAPTER I On Getrinc THERE CHAPTER II Crocus anp Earty Sprinc Fiowers CHAPTER III Hyacintu or Iris? CHAPTER IV Some Oxp Favourrres anp New CHAPTER V Tue ARISTOCRAT OF THE BuLs GARDENS CHAPTER VI Bouts Barns, Names, AND GROWERS ix PAGE 28 47 68 83 104 x DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS APPENDICES By SOPHIE LYALL I Hyacints Currure at Haaritem IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY . II Tue Tuuie Trape, rrom De Konine’s “History oF Haartem” (1635) . eel Tur Hyacintu Trane, From De Konine’s “ TareREEL DER STaD Haartem” (1808) INDEX . PAGE 121 168 171 173 = 13. 14. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS . Het Loo . . Frontismece FACING PAGE The “ Berceau,’”’ Het Loo . Palace Gardens, Het Loo Azaleas, Het Loo The Return of the Storks . The Promise of Spring . A Crocus Field . Hyacinths scattered on the Sand . “In emerald tufts, flowers purple, blue, and white, like sapphire, pearl, and rich embroidery ” Spanish Irises . . A Bulb Farm near Overveen . “They spring, they bud, they blossome fresh and faire, and decke the world with their rich pompous showes” Bulb Time, Haarlem Tulips in their Prime xl 8 16 24 28 32 40 48 56 64 68 xii DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS FACING PACE . “Here are tulips for you—white, for the bridal or the burial ”’ : ; . : ‘ 88 . “Whose leaves with their crimson glow Hide the heart that lies burning and black below ” 94 . Darwin Tulips . 100 . A Bulb House . . 104 . Flower-Markct, Haarlem . : 108 . Hyacinth Flowers going to Market : 112 . A Bulb-Grower’s Garden . : 116 . “When Spring unlocks the flowers to paint the laughing soil” . : : . 128 . A Boatload of Fragrance 14.4 . A Dutch Garden in Spring ; : . 160 DUTCH BULBS & GARDENS CHAPTER I ON GETTING THERE Unvovusrepty the way to go to the Bulb Gardens of Holland is to go the way by which the bulbs come to England. Or at least follow that route to a certain extent—the bulbs usually make part of the inland journey in their own country by canal boat, neither a very possible nor a very comfortable proceeding for the average traveller. But for the rest, their route is the one for those who have leisure and who want to get to the gardens in the most suitable way. One boards a little Dutch steamer at the Tower Stairs, a steamer that seems in the greatest hurry to be off, but never is, though everyone and every- thing, including the steam escape, are very busy till it finally shrieks itself under the Tower Bridge and so down the river. ‘These steamers are some- 1 2 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS times slightingly referred to as cargo boats, and certainly the bulbs, in their clean white packing cases, come to England that way; and when they are not coming, Dutch cheeses in quantity and other things take their place. But the passenger accommodation has much to recommend it. I remember a large deck cabin, much larger and lighter than a good deal of the first-class accom- modation on the great Indian and Australian liners. I remember sheets of stout Low Country linen, reminiscent in their scent of woodruff of the Spanish mahogany dower chests where housewives lay up their gear with the aromatic herb. I remember a snug place with a swinging lamp and lockers, more suggestive of the cabin of the “Schooner Hesperus,” when “the skipper had taken his little daughter to bear him company,” than the saloon of a cross-Channel steamer. It is true the food is Dutch, but if, as not infrequently happens, one is sole passenger, one has it when and where one pleases, which is a compensation. It is true, too, there is no stewardess, and not often anyone who speaks much English on board, and that the journey takes rather long, but these are trifles. By choosing the right tide, one drops down the river in the afternoon, in itself an interesting and ON GETTING THERE 3 instructive thing; spends the night at sea, which if one has to go to sea seems the best time to spend there; and, if it is summer, sees the piers of Ymuenden when sea and sky look like the two halves of a pink pearl in the dawn. After Ymuenden one is in the Great Canal of Amsterdam, and it is a bad sailor who can then find reason to object to the motion or vibration. The latter appears principally to be connected with the steam whistle, which gives notice of approach to railway bridges, and the former to be rather conspicuous by its absence. Children driving goats to pasture and early astir pedestrians seem as if they could easily outdistance the very steady and matronly pace of the little steamer. But it is quite suitable, everything else on the water moves at the same pace, which agreeably allows of greeting and con- versation with occasional sister craft, even allows of learning what they have for breakfast on board. And no doubt it is necessary,—the banks which shut the canal from the land, usually lying below the water-level, are very soft; even as itis, dredgers, those most fascinating craft of childhood, are eternally at work. It appears to be the cautious custom of the country not to open the swing railway bridges 4 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS within twenty minutes of the scheduled time of a train’s coming. As the trains do not invariably keep time, there are occasionally long waits for the steamers, which, being privately owned, wait the good pleasure of the State-owned railways. But it does not very much matter, there is the better chance to look around and see the country, which is so very flat here that there is a great deal of it to be seen; and so wide and peaceful that it puts to rest the sense of hurry. One who goes to the bulb gardens does well to put that sense to rest, for, seen hastily, run through in a few hours or a day at most, they produce little but an impression of sheets of gorgeous colour, which might possibly have been more beautiful had they been otherwise arranged. ‘Time is wanted to see them, the leisureliness which regards them as gardens rather than as so many acres of scarlet, blue, or white, and the opportunity of knowing a few of the flowers individually. It is for this reason, among others, and as a suitable preparation to the leisurely observa- tion, that a man does well to go to the gardens the way the bulbs come; and does well to possess his soul in patience, while the Dutch captain attends the pleasure of the man who minds the bridge, and while the steamer creeps up to Amsterdam, ON GETTING THERE 5 The national virtue of Holland, the Holland one sees from the canal, is industry; not energy exactly, certainly not ‘hustle’ or any kindred thing, but industry, coupled with a neatness which keeps even the ditches tidy, and does not allow of that inalienable right of the English rural dweller, the garden rubbish-heap. The Dutch strike one as more industrious than anything else in the world, unless perhaps ants, to a community of which, it must be admitted, they bear some resemblance. The national ideal, at least in the bulb district, is cleanliness. About the highest praise to be be- stowed on anything is that it is clean. A fine tulip bulb in its shining yellow-brown skin is extolled as “so clean”; the curious sandy soil in which the bulbs grow is spoken of with pride as always clean ; the great compliment to be paid toa bulb barn is that it is clean. Possibly one of the advantages of the growers’ work is that it is clean. Itis, I believe, customary to speak of Amsterdam as the Venice of the North. For one who has not seen Venice it is impossible to draw a comparison, but it seems difficult to imagine much resemblance between them—beyond the fact that both possess canals and houses and history. Amsterdam some- how reminds one of Dickens’ novels, it is immensely 6 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS interesting, rather crowded, real, busy, homely, and genuine; not suggestive of devastating passions or high romance exactly, but very comfortable and wholesome. One would expect it to dine early, to attend to business, and have a substantial supper. This is not meant to imply that everyone in Amsterdam does these things, only that that is the general impression produced by the town. One can perfectly understand Amsterdam being the diamond mart of the world; but one cannot imagine an Amsterdamer ruining himself to buy a parure for some fair woman’s caprice; or an Amsterdamess jeopardising her immortal soul to secure some special jewel. One no more expects it than one expects the Jews, who are the art dealers and bijou connoisseurs of the world, to be the producers of these same articles. Not that one thinks the less of them on that account. Artists and romancists and subjects of the grand passion, though no doubt adding to the joy of nations, make indifferent folk to live with; the sturdy man of business and the shrewd and kindly citizen might be a deal better for everyday use—and most lives consist principally of such usings. In Amsterdam one can perfectly understand the famous struggle with Spain and some of the ON GETTING THERE " difficulties of the Boer War. But one cannot help feeling that, just as the French Revolution and the "45 are not in the nature of the people, neither are the ways and doings of Renaissance Italy. From Amsterdam one goes by train to Haarlem, capital of the bulb country ; and if one holds any hearsay opinions as to the unexcitable nature of the Dutch people, one corrects them on the way. Phlegmatic in big matters they may be, but in small ones—No. It is only necessary to observe them seeing each other off at the railway station or starting one of their not too expeditious trains to realise that. The excitement of getting the people in, of arranging seats when in, closing windows and placing the inordinate quantity of packages everyone seems to carry, is astonishing to the Englishman. So too, rather, is the amount of help and service required by the exceedingly capable Holland women, A Holland lady never seems to think of opening a carriage door for her- self; one imagines she would almost sooner go past the desired station than do so, though such a catastrophe could not well happen, for, in good time, she uplifts her voice and excitedly calls upon all and sundry to let her out, if no one has, unasked, 8 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS come to do it. She never attempts to board the train without at least one assistant; if she be stout, two. In the latter case it is not altogether un- necessary, for the steps are steep, the door narrow, and the stations, like others on the Continent, guiltless of platforms; the difficulties of getting a really fat and baggage-laden lady in are consider- able. Inside the train she is very helpless about her belongings and prepared to cast herself upon the kindness of any or all men; outside Mevrouw is as capable as any woman in the world. The peculiarity probably arises from the fact that Holland, in some respects, is still rather mid- Victorian ; the women, at all events, cling to the ideal of feminine helplessness in public places which was counted becoming in that era. Haarlem, it is said, is behind the rest of Holland ; with what truth I do not know, I know no other part half so well. It is a town not quite like any other, so quiet and bright, so small scale busy with its own concerns, so essentially cosy. There is there a feeling of attending to your own business, and the price of meat mattering more than the Messina earthquake (as, indeed, it is conceivable it may to a good many people) ; and also a feeling of comfort and the settled home life ; THE ““BERCEAU, HET LOO ON GETTING THERE 9 the hearth swept and the children coming down to tea. The whole town is intersected by canals, the which, always busy and doing away with a good deal of road traffic, may help to produce the quiet, bright, yet active feeling. The houses, many of them, are right on to the street, with windows low, so that one can hardly help seeing in and having a momentary and intimate glimpse of the lives of the inhabitants. This may help to give the com- fortable homely feeling—it is hard to say, really impossible to say, what produces and wherein lies the spirit and atmosphere of a town. At Haarlem station it is customary for those who have come in the bulb flowering time of April and May to hire a carriage and go the route prescribed by the driver; thus, without leaving their seats, seeing the gardens, and carrying away the impression of a patchwork quilt of flowers. An arrangement of foursquare bits of colour, separated from each other by as yet scantily-leafed hedges, and, here and there, intersected by pieces of ground resting from bulb culture, and either bare or green with vegetables, which, from sheer exhaustion, if not contrariness, the eye is inclined to prefer to the gorgeous flower patches. But that is not the way to see the bulb gardens. It is 2 10 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS better, for one who has leisure, to go first in early summer, when the great mass of flowers is over, and only the later and fewer bulbs are in bloom ; when there is opportunity to know them as individuals, and appreciate the exquisite contrast of iris colours and green hedges, and to see to full advantage ranunculus, and the early blooming gladioli, and the hundred varieties of the lily tribe. To see them, as the unaccustomed eye cannot see them when it first meets flowers in sheets, field after field of colour. In June, then, come to Haarlem; there take a tram, and do not forget that the chances are some one in the vehicle will understand English very well indeed. And when the tram has come as near as may be to the destination, walk the rest of the way to the house of the grower. ‘To see the bulb flowers without the grower is not to see them. On arrival at the house there is usually a meal first. It is always mid-day ‘ coffee-drinking” in my memories, and there is never much talk of the flowers at it; questions, rather, about people in England and Holland, and perhaps about fashions and _ food, and the length of the winter, and the health of Mevrouw. After that there is a rest, during which Mevrouw offers cordials and home-made ON GETTING THERE 11 liquors of a most excellent order, and den Heer finishes important letters. After that, walk forth to the flowers. The gardens are sometimes rather far from the house, and often not very near each other, one man owning or renting several at considerable distances apart. Some of the younger men use bicycles to get from one to the other, some of the elder tricycles, which seems a doubtful expedient, seeing the nature of the roads. One old man who used the latter method, and wished to try the former, wept tears of sheer rage when his wife and family interfered, for the sake of his safety, to prevent him from learning to ride the swifter machine. And, being Dutch not. French, he was not content with weeping, but proceeded to frustrate their well-meant interference. Of an evening, when by his own account he was late working in the office, he took his son’s bicycle to a bulb barn, and, by the light of a lantern, rode it up and down the centre aisle. He damaged himself a good deal from time to time, and the bicycle somewhat; but he was not discovered. He explained his own injuries in various ingenious, if not strictly truthful, ways; and of the bicycle’s he was never suspected, although he showed 12 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS himself generous in subscribing to the cost of repairing the mysteriously caused damage. He spent most of the evenings of one winter in this way. It took him all that time to at all master the machine. He was less apt than determined, and, had he not been bent on proving his in- dependence, he might have given up. But he was bent, very seriously—one knows the concentra- tion with which he ground up and down the barn aisle night after night, peering with short-sighted eyes for unseen obstacles among the lantern shadows, and colliding with the same corner at the same time each turn. In the spring he bought a second-hand bicycle. He was too good a man of business to risk the price of a new one on his own proficiency as a rider on the roads; moreover, he wanted a machine with solid tyres, he preferred the substantiality. On his purchase he rode proudly to his own door, and dismounted in time to save himself from falling off at his wife’s feet. He is now occasionally to be seen on the roads, a proud and perspiring man. It is true, he does not ride his bicycle very much when his wife is not about to protest and object, but he is always (verbally at least) an enthusiast about it. It is his opinion that the roads of Holland are the most ON GETTING THERE 13 excellent in the world for cycles. They are, he says, no matter what the weather, always so clean. That is true, clean they are; but good!—it is a matter of opinion. There is a foot-wide brick track in the centre, deep sand everywhere else; at least such are the roads to the bulb gardens I know best. But in den Heer’s case part of the bulb land was round the house. He had other farther away. Land so near Haarlem is too valuable for a man to own all he wants there. It would, of course, be to this near garden he would go when the important letters were finished and the visitor rested. It is no impressionist picture of colour splashes to be got there, but detailed, like an old Dutch painting. You do not see the stretches of blue and yellow iris, you see the flowers, They are individuals to den Heer, not masses, He knows them, or, at least, representatives among them. He stops before the long strip of new iris—mixed sorts raised from seed, in the hope of producing some variety worth saving and propagating. “Ah, Ah!” he will purr as he touches some one among them, “here we have a good flower, the violet-—the true violet—observe the eye.” 14 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS You observe the flower, and the three plush spots on the lower petals, and do not perceive it to be very different, or, to tell the truth, very superior to anything you have seen before. But he perceives it and has already marked the plant. «This we will multiply,” he says, “in time you will see this in the catalogues. You shall give it a name.” You give one, the name of the boat that brought you to Holland perhaps, or perhaps ‘“ Amethyst,” in honour of the purple tone which den Heer per- ceives, although you do not. And then you turn to admire another flower, a perfect blue, which seems very beautiful. But the chances are your admiration is misplaced. “Tt is nothing,” den Heer says with a shrug, at the same time cutting the bloom for you with the smallest and sharpest of knives. “There are many as fine, many better, the Darling, the Sol- fatare, both more blue. Did this, now, show any rosy markings, that would be something indeed in Iris hispanica.” It no doubt would, though possibly not an improvement in the eyes of the uninitiated. Ifyou are of this opinion, you do not say so, but follow den Heer among the flowers, noticing how one here ON GETTING THERE 15 and there is marked out for the honour of multi- plication. A somewhat remote honour, which will not bring them into catalogue fame yet; may not bring them at all. For this reason the naming of the purple iris is hardly important, little more than a graceful compliment to the namer. The chances are rather in favour of the flower not being found worthy of founding a family to use the name; and even if it were, like the thousands of babies daily named, there is small likelihood of its achieving great fame. Beyond the irises, divided by a high hornbeam screen, there are white gladioli; from the distance little but an irregular white blur in a small field they do not fill; but near spotless flowers, bending like a bevy of shy girls at their first communion, or novices waiting their bridal with the Church. Den Heer will stop to tell you which is the “true Bride,” the perfect snow-white flower with no suspicion of purple on the stamen tips or faintly tinging the depth of the throat. He will tell you how the beautiful Bride, no matter how carefully grown and selected, has a tendency in these faint colour stains to show its remote ancestor, the ugly _— little magenta flower of the Canary Islands. 3 He will also pick out for you the full flower head, 16 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS twenty florets on a stalk, five open at once, a per- fection by no means always obtained. By the white gladioli is a great patch of the taller and later blooming sort, not yet fully out, but already showing hints of their gorgeous colours, salmon and scarlet, pale yellow and delicate mauve. All the many tints to be found among them since the discovery of varieties at the Cape (where, by the way, the corms are eaten by the Hottentots) has allowed of endless crossings and hybridisings, and has removed them in beauty far from the few indigenous European sorts. Those of which Parkinson wrote with the satisfaction of one catch- ing a famous rival tripping: “Gerard mistaketh the French kind for the Italian.” In the ground which surrounds the grower’s house are to be found the choice varieties. This ground is not often divided into big fields devoted to some one or two kinds of bulbs only. It is more usually given up to smaller patches of special flowers, or new flowers, things which need care, or watching, or else are experiments. It is here there is likely to have been first seen green ixias (Ixia viridiflora) in bloom, and the strange sound of their dry rustling heard,—the sound which, taken in conjunction with their colour, the blue-green of PALACE GARDENS, HET LOO ON GETTING THERE 17 mildew, is somehow suggestive of Jeremiah’s valley of dry bones. Here, too, will be Californian tulips (Calochortus), and the rare great iris of Persia (Iris Susiana), and other things in their season ; always much more than can be seen before Mevrouw, standing at the house door, claps her hands to tell that dinner is ready. To go to the more distant gardens, it is well to choose the morning, if it is spring, the time of the bulbs which have made Holland famous. A windy time, this, in Holland, one well understands then the advantage of pollarding the trees. Also one understands the necessity of the high hedges or screens which separate the garden into squarish patches. They are sometimes of beech, more often hornbeam, they quite enclose the piece of land, only at each corner there is a square-cut gateless gap, which makes a large area, seen from a distance, suggestive of a gigantic maze. In hyacinth time they are, of course, quite bare of leaves, unless one counts a few yellow ones of last year clinging here and there, a beautiful sombre background to the astonishing vivid delicacy of the flowers. It is a wonderful sight, more especially when one stands among them—rows of wax pink hyacinths, each perfect and each set in its circle of bright green 3 18 DUTCH BULBS AND GARDENS leaves; behind, the purple brown of the bare hedge ; beyond, a glimpse of blue flowers, or pale yellow, or still more dazzling white. A sight wonderful when one stands among them, but also to be appreciated afterwards from a distance—preferably from the windows of the gardener’s little house. Ifthe wind is very cold and den Heer is going to be very long in conference with the gardener, it is possible that, after a certain time, one can admire them more from within over such coffee as the gardener’s wife makes.