G. HAYWARD & CO., Contractors to His Majesty’s Government, Crystal Palace Hortieultural Works, PRPAPUWL EV PAAMR PBPPAhRUI EY, (cy e « ° Cornell University Library BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Henry W. Saqe 1891 Oe ee ALMA 5474 j See nares See | LEAN-T0 RUSTIC SUMMER-HOUSES. 1 RETURN TO il From £3 10s Che: Best Makers of ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY reentanece tr si Conservatories or ¥ ITHACA, N. Y. Rustic Houses. 6a Hundreds of Genuine : Testimonials. or ¢ — ee : Price Lists Free. ILLUSTRATED PRICE LISTS and Estimates Free on Application. \ Makers of all kinds of Conservatories, Green- houses, Garden Frames, Rustic Summer Houses, Garden Furniture, &c. &c. Cover 2.} Cornell University Library SB 357.W95 torial practical fruit growing. Wo il mann “‘The Best Reference Book on Horticulture extant.” Bristol Mercury. AN ENTIRELY NEW DICTIONARY OF GARDENING. In Two Vols., price 30s, net. Cassell’s Dictionary of Practical Gardening. AN ILLUSTRATED ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF PRACTICAL HORTICULTURE FOR ALL CLASSES. EDITED BY WALTER P, WRIGHT, Horticultural Superintendent under the Kent County Council, Author of « ‘Pictorial Practical Gardening,” Editor of ‘‘ THE GARDENER,” &e- With superb COLOURED PLATES and numerous Ilustrations from Photographs taken direct from Nature, “The Dictionary has the merit of being wholly distinct from all other gardening books, encyclopzedic or otherwise, and, what is of still greater importance, is so admirable in plan and execu- tion as to leave no doubt in our mind as to it proving highly useful and attaining to a high degree of popularity.’— Gardeners’ Magazine, CASSELL & COMPANY, Limiren, London; Parts, New Vork & Me.bourn PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING A CONCISE MANUAL GIVING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MANAGEMENT OF EVERY IMPORTANT FRUIT IN CULTIVATION av WALTER Pe WRIGHT Horticultural Superintendent under the Kent County Council Author of “ Pictorial Practical Gardening,” and Editor of “ The Gardener” WITH UPWARDS OF ONE HUNDRED ILLUSTRATIONS CASSELL anno COMPANY, ULUrmMmitTebD LONDON, PARIS, NEW. YORK & MELBOURNE, MOMIII ALL RIGHTS RESERVED First Edition May 1901, Reprinted Novenber 1901, 1903. PREFAC &, + Less than a year ago Messrs. Cassell and Company honoured me with a request to prepare a concise book on plain, practical gardening, ‘Within a month the last sheet of matter was in their hands; within two a first edition of 8,000 copies was exhausted. ‘This little tou de force in horticultural literature was followed by a shoal of letters asking that the new lines adopted in “ Pictorial Practical Gardening” should be applied to special snbjects, and “ PicroRIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING” is the first outcome. In my first book on gardening I introduced the system first initiated by me in the weekly horticultural paper, Ze Gardener, of substituting a set of illustrations, grouped in a convenient way and with a sufficiency of explanatory matter, for the long, wearisome, and not very clear articles to which gardening readers had been accustomed. The instantaneous success which followed satisfied me that I had been fortunate enough to meet a real public requirement In the present work I have consequently proceeded on the same lines. The Journal of Horticulture described “ Pictorial Practical Gardening” as a “marvel of logical arrangement and concentrated knowledge.” I have used my best endeavours to make “ PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GR-w- ING” not wholly unworthy of the same high and generous praise. No yerhose, prolix, and turgid chapters of instructions will be found in it, but each set of illustrations will be found to be a chapter in itself, at once as simple, concise, and clear as I could make it. That large section of the public which buys books on practical gardening does not want fine writing either from me or anybody else; it wants plain teaching. In this book I have not sought to eclipse any of our great writers; I have merely tried to give the people what they want. WALTER P. WRIGHT. May, 1901. Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003391111 CONTENTS. Sst PAGE CHAPTER I, THE ART oF UTILISING SPACE : . . . . . 1 CHAPTER II, THE Brest ForRMS oF TREE . 2 ‘ ‘ " . e 8 CHAPTER III. THe ABO or PRUNING . r ‘ 7 r r . . 14 CHAPTER IV. Pornts ABouT Root PRUNING P ‘ ‘ ‘i . 34 CHAPTER VY. FrRuIT STOCKS AND GRAFTING ¥ : F ; . 38 CHAPTER VI SoILs AND MANURES. ‘ : ‘i i ‘ ‘ ‘ : 5 46 CHAPTER VII. SeLECTIONS OF APPLES. , d 3 ‘ ‘ ‘ 50 CHAPTER VIII. SELECTIONS OF PEARS ‘ a : é 3 c 5h CHAPTER IX, SELECTIONS OF STONE FRUITS é 5 : ‘ : r 59 CHAPTER X. SELECTIONS OF BusH FRUITS. F r x " ‘ < 64 viii CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER XI. FRUIT ENEMIES . F F : i A F ‘ 66 CHAPTER -XII. BLACKBERRIES . ¥ 2 , . “ ‘ 80 CHAPTER XIII. Fies , : ‘ ; " é * ‘ i ¥ : ‘ . 84 CHAPTER XIV. GRAPES. i ‘ a ‘ : Z ; ‘ ‘ 88 CHAPTER XV. MEDLARS AND MULBERRIES . . : ‘ ¥ F ‘ 11] CHAPTER XVI. MELONS ¥ “ é : Z x * F ‘ ‘ i F 111 CHAPTER XVII. Nuts . ‘ ‘ 7 i : ‘ ‘ i A ‘ 118 CHAPTER XVIII. STRAWBERRIES . ‘ ‘ j : : ‘ : ‘ 122 CHAPTER XIX. Fruit Trebs IN Pots . ‘ 5 “ i . . ‘ 129 CHAPTER XX, MISCELLANEOUS . r « F Fi ‘i . ‘ . a a 136 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Span 1.—The Art of Utilising Space. ea he greatest of the many delusions which mislead : people who want to grow their own fruit is that it cannot be done in a small garden. The largest quantity of fruit cannot be grown on a small plot of ground, but the best quality can. The man who knows everything, and has likewise forgotten a good deal, may point to the low standard of merit observable in the market produce sent up from the little homestead; but he forgets that the sender has very likely inherited a legacy from a pre- decessor who first of all put in bad trees and after- wards made worse of them by ignorant management. Where trees are well handled in small gardens they yield superb fruit, although the quantity of it may be small. I want to show how it is possible to get good fruit in nearly every garden, however limited it may be; and I also want to make clear that much depends on a wise utilisation of the space at disposal. The art of economical fruit culture is to make the best of every inch of ground. By selecting the right type of tree, and cultivating and feeding the soil thoroughly, « score of healthy trees, yielding large, juicy fruit of the finest quality, may be grown on a space often devoted to only one. If a dead fruit grower of the old school heard of sixty fruit trees being grown on 8 square rods of ground in an open situation in the kitchen garden, without wall or fence, he would turn in his grave ; yet there is nothing whatever impracticable about it. On the contrary, it may be done with ease, without a great deal of expense, and with immense interest and benefit to the cultivator. Fig. 1 (page 2) represents_a framework of posts and wire by means of which twenty-four trees may be grown in 20 square yards of ground. A A represent stumps driven into the ground, and @C show stout posts connected with and supported by the stumps through the medium of stout galvanised wire, BB. DDD indicate lighter posts set between the larger ones. / #H show the wires for supporting the trees G,and 2’ F is the ground line. Let us glance briefly at each of the items of this much-in-little system. The stumps A should be 1 yard long or thereabouts, pickled or well dressed with creosote. They should be at least 4 inches in diameter, and must be driven into the ground at a slight angle. Holes must not be dug for them, as, however well the soil may be rammed in afterwards, the stumps will not hold. They may be set about 5 feet behind C. PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. 2 { *(19019.100) sysod waqybyy ‘q sapbun 1y6ijs v 40 yas sysod ynojzs ‘9 ‘sauum buywoddns ‘q “sdaunys “FP *Ayyouoborp pours) saa.tg ‘9 7909] Nos “y "saat, Bur -quoddns sof asm pasrvunazob ‘q ‘SUNLINO LINYI NI ANOVAS YNISIWONOODA—T ‘DIT “"SduUOM MAT NI SENIH NIVId—'GOILOVUd IVIMOLOId i {Rott ae ae F im nv ne, ook ty (ae Mt MU LLL re Ze iN N MAKING THE MOST OF SPACH. 3 The wires B should be strong, at least 7 inch in diameter; strand wire (say 7-strand) is best. | The uprights @ should be about 8 feet long, of which 2 feet must be driven into the ground. They must be set at a slight angle, like the stumps. It is an advantage if they are “shoed” at the base, and a strut taken from the tip of the “shoe” to the post above ground. The connecting wires B should be attached to the stumps before the latter are driven into the ground, and made quite secure by means of staples (which cost about 2d. per lb.). The upper part of the wire may then be bent round the up- rights and drawn tight by means of a special tool, which can be hired or borrowed from the ironmonger who supplies the wire. When stumps and principal uprights have thus been made secure, the intermediary uprights D may be driven into the ground. ‘There should be one at every 6 yards at least. Hop poles about 2 inches in diameter answer for these, and the base at all events must be creosoted. : The wires may nowbe stretched. FVive-strand wire, + inch or so in diameter, will be suitable, and it should be well galvanised. Attach at one end and make secure with staples driven well home; then strain tight at the opposite end. Care should be exercised in uncoiling the wire, otherwise ugly kinks may be caused, and the work will look slovenly. Except for the sake of appearances, it is not necessary that the wires should be as taut as fiddle strings. If tight enough to “sing” a little when drawn laterally and released, all practical purposes will be served. It is important to tighten up the wires by degrees, beginning with the interme- diate ones. If the top or bottom one is put on first and strained tight, it will loosen when the next one is put on and similarly tightened. In districts where it is difficult to get posts of a suitable character, recourse may be had to metal uprights to take the place of Cand D. The first cost will be greater, but the framework will of course be more lasting. In planting the trees it is a very good plan to proceed as follows: Begin at one end and make a trench abott 18 inches wide and 1 foot deep, throw- ing the soil into a ridge along the edge of the trench. Having arrived at the other end, turn, and dig over the subsoil, shifting it another foot deep, not merely scratching it over. Spread on the subsoil before turning it one of the following mixtures :— A B 1 oz. of muriate of potash, 13 02. of kainit, 2 oz. of basic slag, 13 oz. of superphosphate, per yard run. per yard run. In the absence of these fertilisers, road scrapings, burnt refuse, mortar rubbish, or well-decayed manure may be dug in. All are good; but I deprecate large quantities of rich, rank dung, because it will tend to entice the roots downwards, and foster an exuberant, unfruitful growth, rendering speedy relifting or root pruning absolutely necessary. Having thus prepared the trenches, the trees may be selected. Many do this first; but if the trenches are made well in advance of planting it is an advantage, as the lower soil becomes weathered and sweetened. The trees should be of the upright cordon class, and the price will vary from js. to 2s. 6d. each, according to age and variety. Trees three to four years old are the best. “They may be bought already furnished with fruit spurs, and with a web of fibrous roots. “The loosening of the subsoil will have partially filled up the trench, and a layer of the surface soil may now be shovelled in, reducing the depth of 4 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. the trench to 6 or 8 inches, which will be quite suitable. Place the trees in the trench about 2 feet apart after cutting any of the prong roots which may have been broken smoothly across; arrange them at an angle of about 45°, and shovel soil over the roots, working it carefully in amongst the fibres. Tread gently, but firmly, and spread over all a coating of well- decayed manure, subsequently covering this with the remainder of the soil. By following this system, there can be scarcely a doubt about the trees taking kindly to the soil. They will bear some fruit the first season, even though very little. Itis no disadvantage to have a light crop the first year of planting ; on the contrary, it should be viewed with satisfaction, because there is then no danger of the trees suffering from an over heavy burden. The whole of the work indicated, from the erection of the framework to the planting of the trees, may be done in autumn, in winter, or in early spring. Midwinter is not a very good time, because the posts and trees have not a good chance of becoming bedded to their positions in the soil, owing to the changes brought about by rain and frost. Apples and Pears are admirably adapted to this method of culture, and by selecting sorts with care (see a subsequent chapter) and pruning judi- ciously (also to be treated later) a long succession of fruit can be had. ‘true, each tree will only yield a limited quantity, but it will be of large size aud splendid quality. Plums are not quite so well suited, as they are naturally of much more vigorous growth than Apples and Pears, and not nearly so amenable to the restrictive system of pruning. I prefer to grow them as pyramids or standards. Gooseberries and Red Currants may be grown with great success on the cordon principle, and it may be practised unhesitatingly with the former where a good many varieties are wanted for dessert or exhibition. It is important to utter a warning that the system herein described is not suitable for market work. ‘The cultivator who grows fruit for profit will want large quantities of a limited number of chosen sorts, not one or two trees of a great many varieties. (Sec chapter on “ Profitable Culture.”) The full advantages of the system are only manifest to the private grower. ‘To the latter it means the ability to grow a great many varieties on a very small strip of ground, without the aid of a fence or wall. By choosing varieties which ripen in succession he will not have a good deal of fruit ready at the same time, but will have a long and continuous supply. He can have both Apples and Pears, in fact, from July to April, and of the former a few of the best keepers may last until the next crop is ready. It may be desirable in some cases to establish more than one of these frameworks on the same plot of ground. Any number may be so provided ifa space of abcut 4 feet is allowed from one to the other. ‘This distance will permit of plenty of sunlight getting to the trees, of a free circulation of air, of space for pruning, and of freedom of movement in surface culture. It will also allow of the roots spreading without one row robbing another. By no other means can space be so closely and well cropped with the larger kinds of fruit in gardens where walls or suitable fences do not exist. Where there is more space at disposal, and a desire exists for a complete fruit garden, an interesting and valuable adjunct to a home may be established. Fig. 2 (see page 5) shows the ground plan of an amateur’s fruit garden, arranged with a due regard to the various interests involved, such as the inclusion of the principal kin«ls, suitability of site and aspect, and the welfare of other occupants of the garden. AN AMATEUR’S FRUIT GARDEN. 5 S= as 5S a Stay s ae ee Se eS = =e ‘B38 Sas woe, 3 o = ~ rir, tee J WN aD Vth ontally train- ah My Hu (Seale 1 inch = 24 feet.) E, double trellis for ed. Pear trees—12 ¢ ————— pect = = Ee SS Wy Fat ! fi | : ite es i ny I i ! + aie y == EFERENCES, D, line of cordon Apple trees on Pura- 6 feet uyptert—112 trees. R il H en | vi Hi hi . ‘ pier HH ip ie lL: vi vu 4 i 0 ni oo ality dise stock, =A} IS Fb Tita inh rel ie is t i aie i Gilet eee ei ee i PICTORIAL PRACTICE,—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. FIG. 2.—THE GROUND PLAN OF AN AMATEUR’S FRUIT GARDEN. ng tiles, rope pattern. B, paths, 6 feet wide. : nM fle eth ava Hh A ae He MAA a zs = == = a xe 5! 6 PIOTORIAL PRAOTIOAL FRUIT GROWING. Chapter I1.—Che Best Forms of Cree. Iy pursuance of our determination to make the most of limited space, and to have a long supply of splendid fruit even if the garden be small, let us glance at the various forms of fruit tree that may be called into requisition. The skilled trainer in the nursery takes a fruit stock in summer, in- serts an Apple, or Pear, or Plum bud in the main stem of it, very much as arosarian puts buds in the shoots of a standard Brier, and the following spring cuts off the head of the stock, leaving only a stump to support the shoot into which the bud is fast developing. In the autumn he removes the stump, leaving the Apple, or Pear, or Plum in complete possession. By the time another year has passed the young fruit tree has been headed hard back, and has pushed a number of side shoots, which the aforesaid trainer proceeds to work into various shapes. From the “maiden” tree evolved by the budding process he will make you a bush, a pyramid, a cordon, an espalier, a palmette verrier, a fan, a “gridiron,” or any other of the many shapes into which fruit trees are trained. Digressing for a moment, it may be well to answer an imaginary ques- tion as to whether the average amateur fruit grower can cultivate and bud his own fruit stocks. He can, certainly; but I do not think he would find it economical. The various stocks employed, such as Paradise (different sorts) for Apples, Quince for Pears, Mussel and Brompton for Plums, Mahaleb for Cherries, and so forth, are not in retailcommerce. It is easy to get them in thousands for trade purposes, but not so easy to procure them in dozens for private gardens. Moreover, fruit trees are now so cheap that if the time devoted to cultivating and budding stocks in the home garden is taken into account, as it ought to be in order to arrive at a proper basis of calculation, nothing whatever is saved by doing the work privately. Another question: Does it pay to raise fruit trees from seed or cuttings? At the risk of conveying disappointment to the large number of gardening novices who love to save pips from tle Apples which they eat, sow them, and then worry experts for opinions on the merit of the resulting fruit (if any ever does result), I must express an opinion that seedling fruit culture isa delusion and a snare. I have had hundreds of fruits submitted to me by proud raisers, but I have never yet seen a promising novelty; and my diplomatic resources have been taxed to the utmost in order to soften the blow of an adverse opinion. The seedlings may be used for grafting with reliable sorts, but, of course, the average novice is not satisfied with that, He wanted to raise something that would put Lane’s Prince Albert Apple, or Cox’s Orange Pippin, into the shade, and he is an injured and a dis- appointed man. As for raising fruit trees from cuttings—well! if you want to amuse yourself for several years by watching trees grow and grow, and produce little or nothing except magnificent crops of leaves, go in for the cuttings system ; if you want a quick crop of fine fruit, leave the amuse- ment to your neighbour. You will be able to make him presents of large, richly coloured fruit, and he will be able to return the compliment with beautiful branches. Reverting to the different forms of fruit trees, we have bushes, pyramids, and standards for open quarters ; and cordons, espaliers, fans, etc., for walls, fences, and wire supports. FORMING A BUSH. ‘dIUL LINAI HSA V ONIWMOA—'s “OIL “SGUOM ATT NI SLNIH NIVId—HOILLOVUd TVIMOLOId ways 6a £ yooqs ‘p 2 Bursrmoud ysoub pun pazpnges ysaq ay} fo yng parowas Bur pnay ay dof tof % syynosi asnaas 07) ,, Gulpnay,, 40 Burund fo quod a F aval puogas ay? U2 99.02 ‘Vv SHON ATTA 8 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Bush Trees.—The bush system is admirably suited for Apples on the Paradise, Pears on the Quince, Cherries on the Mahaleb, and Plums on the Mussel. Selections of varieties of all these, adapted to different soils and situations, will be given later. For the present, let it suffice to give a little attention to the tree. A bush Apple is procured by cutting down u maiden tree about two-thirds of its length, leaving six or eight buds, which break into growth, giving a leader and side branches. Such a specimen may be bought from a nursery as a two_year old. ‘The shoots should be thinned to three or four and cut hard back when growth starts. Ina year's time this tree will have six or eight branches, and with one more shortening its form will be thoroughly established (Fig. 3, page 7). It will be a well-branched, well-formed tree, with clean, healthy growths and fruit spurs already forming freely. ‘he subsequent pruning will be dealt with later on, but it may here be said that these trees may be planted 8 feet apart, and there need be no difficulty in keeping them within bounds and in full fruitfulness for many years. Pyramids.—tTrees of formal shape are often wanted by the side of garden walks. ‘hey are not more fruitful than bushes, given equally skilled attention for both, arid they take a little more time to shape, but there is unquestionably a considerable demand for them. Pears on the Quince stock are more suitable for pyramids than any other class of tree, although Plums and, indeed, Apples and Cherries also, are so grown. Where space only permits of a few pyramids being planted, I advise Pears being chosen, with, perhaps, a couple of Plums. A pyramid is formed in the first place by shortening a maiden tree as before described, but in the second year a more regular disposition of the branches is aimed at when a choice is made, and the upper side shoots are shortened more severely than the lower ones. A complete illustration of the procedure is seen in Fig. 4, page 9. Cordons.—This type of tree emanated from France, and the name is simply a fanciful application of the French word cordun—a string or bell- rope—in allusion, presumably, to the fact that the tree is pruned in to a single stem, on which fruit hangs like a rope of Onions. We have several forms of cordon trees, e.g. single and double upright, and single and double horizontal ; but in all the main principle is the same, namely, to restrict the tree to a formal shape and prevent its developing branches. I have already shown how valuable the cordon system is where space is very scarce. It is so easy to err in forming cordons out of maiden trees that I am inclined to advise purchasing developed trees of three years old or upward. Several nurserymen make a speciality of them. It may be estab- lished with advantage as a general rule in managing cordons that as long a run as possible should be given to the head, with a view to providing a counterpoise to the severe restriction of the side growths. If a cordon tree is curtailed as to its leading shoot as well as to ils side branches, it will dwindle and become unhealthy. ‘his is particularly the case with hori- zontal cordons, which are useful for forming a low line of trees at the side of walks, in gardens where there is not room cnough for the taller espaliers. Prone the side shoots both in summer and winter, at the former season to six good, well-developed, healthy leaves; at the latter season to within one or two buds of the main stem; but at all times and seasons give the leading shoot the utmost extension possible. In the case of low supports, a greater length of run may be secured by training upright trees diagonally. The cordon system may be brought into play for arches, and a reference to Fig. 5, page 10, will show how the trees may be trained. HOW TO FORM A PYRAMID. ssunds “t £pauaztoys JOU La}) 7SL4 ‘B fpavazsoys yow 017 puooas “Eb + sayour 9 02 pauazzoys 19%) p.12Y7 ‘O 3 sayour ZL 02 pavaz.oys tapna) ‘we % cval. yqinof ur 200) “aT “snus “Ww £ pawazroys aq 0} ou ‘1979 ysuyf ‘7 £ sayour,g 07 pauazroys sjooys apis 424 pwooas ‘y fwappa) ayp ua -ploys 07 asaym ‘Es anak pany? ur pruoshd ‘ay *asng WOLf sayIUr G SJooYys apis Burvuajzuoys fo qurod ‘6 $29 yssyf Gurwsof pup paynurbr1o snyz sqooys apis ‘f tasnq wouf sayour GT Burpnay Jo yurod ‘a £ sapnaz ‘p ispsnmsayy woah n Y aay ay} smoys J : “punowh ayy wort sayour SL ‘buspoay fo qurod ‘9 22099 wapyrow ‘STONDUAITL ‘GINVUAd V WUOd OL MOH—*% “DId “SdHOM AMAT NI SLNIH NIVId—AOILOVAd TVIXOLIId PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. 10 Ce abod ‘p yo wal punosb a8) DEO sana — 8atyj— uwopwsoo Lo “unf‘7ywozr.L0y IY PLO “Sad LOf PIM TDM *! (-¢ abn Sy wound pu a aas) ‘ypna ‘yf saag Wop abnd ‘7 yo wnt punows aay) *S9ad) wopLod pooiq4aa apiuas “Y f saat} po supaki aacyy pour. ‘B fsiyage fs saad anag b aanyy “9 Fyn ayy 07 Brurbpa aspar SUOp Os BULLNIAS LOf 3 und punosh dag) aouy agdd yy : “SHINTTLAL LT ‘SUI TVdSA GNV SNOCUOD LHOIYdN CNV IV.INOZIYOH YNIMOHS SASITIAUL - ¢ “O1T ‘SaduUOM MUX NI SLNIH NIWId—dOILOVaUd IVINOLOId Pier Dee SS le~ = a es r eS = nin din ag aoe ae a si 5 TREE. 11 FORM A FAN HOW TO ssunds ‘f 2 fjanbyjQo ] Puy prULW~ we SYPRIUH ‘9 5 Hupuyney s,wwali puosas wr “UOMIALIP Patisap 3276 pun gswwbn syjmoub o.1naas 0} so-yo48 JO SYjaug pasraood d rants wr ‘p fHurwuned sagurar fo spurod ‘o fpuay ayy fo sisvg ayy Usof 07 paurnjor puv paynurbr1o syymor8 aang ‘Q + 9002 uoprou Burpnay fo iurod ‘vn : burueng s.wnat youl ur aa “P “SHONDUAATL ‘UL LINUI CAdVHS-Nvd V ONIWWOI—'9 “OIF . ‘SGUOM MU NI SLNIH NIVTd—‘HOILOVUd TVIMOLOIL nee 12 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Espaliers.—Here we have another formal type of tree, secured by the skilful manipulation of the yearling. A maiden tree may be cut hard beck. If possible, it should be headed to a point where there are three buds not far apart, one of them on the front of the main stem, A front bud gives a shoot which goes up in a truer line with the lower portion of what is to be the main stem fhana side bud. One of the three buds is to continue the leader, and the other two are to form the lower pair of side branches. If one of these extends at the expense of the other, which is weak, endeavour to redress the balance by depressing the stronger (depression checks the flow of sap and steadies the growth) and raising the weaker, When the leader has extended about 1 foot it may be stopped again, if possible, at a point where three buds cluster near each other, and material for another tier of branches thus secured. In good soil a pair of tiers may be secured in one season. I have known more under very favourable circumstances. It is not advisable to tie the side shoots down to the horizontal position which they are to assume ultimately (see g in Fig. 5, page 10) while they are in an early stage of development ; it will suffice to do that in the winter following their formation, or even in the second year. Under ordinary circumstances, an espalier tree with five or six tiers of branches 10 inches to 1 foot apart is large enough for most gardens. On a wall, an espalier may be trained with twenty or more tiers ; it is merely a question of space. The side branches may be summer and winter pruned, the same as cordons. Fan Trees.—The fan system is well suited to Peaches and Nectarines, to Apricots, and to Morello Cherries. If anyone has a wall with a north aspect, and is not quite sure what fruit he would like to grow on it, let him plant a fan-shaped Morello, permit it to grow freely, and lay in plenty of young wood. He will get abundance of very useful fruit. A fan shaped tree proper has no vertical leading shoot. All the growths radiate from a point low down in the tree as a result of hard cutting back. A maiden tree is chosen, cut down two-thirds its length, and three shoots selected from the buds that break, the others being removed while still quite small. When starting into growth the following spring, these three shoots may be shortened to 6 inches. As a result, buds will break into growth, and two may be selected on each of the three stumps, and allowed to extend diagonally and equidistant. Thus a tree with six healthy branches will be secured, all radiating from a common base or centre—a veritable “ fan” (see Fig. 6, page 11). It may be well to warn the inexperienced fruit grower against rushing his trees into size by omitting the cutting back of the three branches. The temptation to do so is very strong in the case of Peaches and Plums, for they make a great deal of growth when young, and it seems a pity to cut most of it away. Nevertheless the grower should barden his heart, sharpen his knife, and follow the advice here given. Standards.—This class of tree is not suitable for small gardens, but in orchards, where the trees are wanted to give large quantities of fruit, and they can be given a space between each pair of 20 or 30 feet, they are good. Standards and half-standards, the former on clean stems 6 feet, and the latter 3 feet, in height, of Apples, Plums, and Cherries are still being planted extensively in Kent, also in the Midlands and the West. In forming young trees, it is wise to shorten the shoots two-thirds their length the first season, and one-third the second season; then a tree with a good foundation is secured (see Fig. 7, page 13). 13 HOW TO FORM STANDAKDS. ‘SQHOM MUA NI SLNIH NIVId—'GOLLOVAd TVIMOLOId ssunds wsof 07 3 810 OF IND AQ 07 sjonys apis ‘0 pagporpwr sp yo hy} pat fi sjooys Burpoa fo bu YN squay Lo sayouneg “7 guyf fo saomjd Sy £ burn 1 : f wags 2 taauyaiddp puppunjs po sana unof ‘q ‘sunds Burusof sof mozq spnq ysad pun aotof 0} sayounsg asnno of Bujuned sawn ysuof fo syurod ‘y ‘flo pagqns usaq aany sypnow yoryn yo sud ‘6 Spnay woof 07 paurugrs spooys ‘f + aa4) add ppo sana aaryy fo pnay %) *spng ysouLtaddn ayy 0712 #12 ay fo nobra ay? 170 MO.LYy7 07 Ways 3472 07 28070 Jo qno Guraq sqooys apis ayz ‘ways fo qyhiay passap wo ,burpvsy ,, pajyoo ‘ymosb Burppay fo quiod Buruajsoys ‘a S uays s.rosnas snowaud Worf SJooYs Ips 40 sypsaqy] Sp Suags s.Lnali Burpaoard fo png yoursay worl yynosb fo uoljonuruor ‘9 29909 ajddP pjo s.upah oma v “Tr upakh srorasd wa paptasur png woul ypnord *q £ yoogs “M 2 ways ayy 6wo7n jn spmng pook spy ny “payaunsg qou spy Yyorym aay addp wuapinu Lo Hurpenoli yo ‘er “‘SHONTUTT AL ‘SCUVANVLIS WA0T OL MOH—'2 ‘OIL 14 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Chapter I1—Che ABC of Pruning. You may make a great mystery of pruning if you like; or you may make it as plain as the alphabet—it is all a question of character. There are students of chemistry, albeit of the elementary class, in whose eyes carbonic acid gas, most commonplace of compounds, becomes invested with a deep and inscrutable fascination when referred to as CO,, and to those of a like order of mind the development of pruning into a great, weird mystery, only to be approached throngh a tangle of technicalities, is a satisfying and grateful business, It is not for me to debar these gentlemen from the enjoyment of a whirl of phrases and formule, but on the other hand I am not called upon to provide them with their special intellectual pabulum. The idea I have before me in the present notes is to reduce pruning to its simplest elements, in order that the most inexperienced person may read, instantly get to work, and in due season reap a full harvest of fruit. A great help to a practical grasp of the A B C of pruning is a supply of shoots of the various kinds of fruit trees to be operated upon. By referring to these while printed instructions are being read, each point can be mas- tered. The differences between them are considerable. In an Apple tree the shoots are usually brown, relatively thick and plump, the fruit buds round and greyincolour. The latter are often found on the long shoots, as well as on the cluster of very short shoots and buds which is technically termed a spur. In a Pear the shoots are usually smaller and darker in colour; while the fruit buds, which are smaller and more pointed than those of Apples, are produced almost exclusively on spurs, very rarely on young wood. Plums and Damsons are also spur, not young wood, bearers. When Plum trees are young they often produce a great deal of strong wood, but when they have settled down and become well furnished with spurs the summer growths are usually much smaller even than those of Pears. They are very dark in colour, and the fruit buds small and pointed. Cherries, like Plums, are apt to be gross at first, and even when they have settled down to the serious business of life it is common for them to produce a good deal of breastwood. This is grey in colour, studded with bold brown buds, some of which are fruit buds. ‘The spurs are simply clusters of fat, rounded brown buds. The popular “ Heart” Cherries, indeed nearly all with the exception of the Morello, are principally spur bearers, but dislike much pruning. Peaches (with Nectarines) resemble their cousins the Plums in producing a good deal of strong wood when young. When they have been cured of this vicious habit by being lifted they assume a more modest habit of growth, and annually produce a crop of young shoots 15 to 18 inches long, on which the fruit is borne. Apricots bear for the most part on spurs. : A consideration of the foregoing brings the following facts into prominence :— 1, Established trees of Apples must not necessarily be denuded of their young wood, like Pears, ~ 2. Pears must not become smothered with young wood. 3. Plums should be lifted to check over-vigorous root action when young and afterwards spurred. 15 SUMMER PRUNING APPLES. ‘HduL TTddV NV ONINNUd—'8 ‘SIL VId—a0ILIVad TVIMOLOId ‘SGUOM MWA NI SLNIH NI ‘w 2 saana} pol : payourd yooys apis “qT mossojg D Buaguasasdas ‘png pours snonoy ys Gsoys ay, UO yas figasopa soanay ‘f Y waaNnjag ADIPausayu? qooys {9 as ? 6 figgnas qjuoys Y uo pasodsip saanay ‘y £ poom s,wnali snotaasd ‘6 : ands ‘gq +80. nay poob ‘ r ([-/a7 ut umoys aap parnMaf szooys ay) sas 19470 BWOS pup sity Ww asofacayy Saboyunapy yooh ym sauwns uz auop aq nw Burunud fo ysom ayy fo poop yuh F] “STONTATATI 16 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. 4. Cherries which produce their fruit buds in clusters may be spurred by summer pruning, but Morellos should have the young wood trained in. 5. Peaches and Nectarines should be lifted when young to check the root action if the growths they produce in summer are upwards of 2 feet long and 4 inch thick or more. 6. Apricots should be spurred in the main, but a little young wood may be trained in if space permits. 7. All trees that are severely pruned to spurs should be allowed to extend a little at the head, unless they are growing on walls or fences where space is limited. These rules may help us on the road, but details will be wanted before we can claim to have mastered the subject. Apples.—In some respects the Apple is the most difficult of all trees to prune. Not only are the varieties very numerous, but they differ greatly in habit of growth and method of fruiting. Sorts like Bramley’s Seedling and Blenheim Orange make strong, upright growth, and hard pruning is bad for them, as it leads to a great mass of shoots being formed. They should be lifted two years after planting to check root action, and the heads kept open by cutting shoots that crowd the head clean out. They will then grow into large trees and bear heavy crops, although it will be a long time before they yield much. This type of Apple tree should not be shortened severely when young ; the tips of the shoots should be removed and the flowers picked off the first season after planting to give them a start. A second class of tree is that which has a tendency to form a great many fruit buds when young, to fruit freely when quite small, and thus to grow * slowly. Stirling Castle, Bismarck, Potts’s Seedling, and Manks’s Codlin may be named as examples. If small trees are wanted, well and good; but if the trees are required to grow into a good size, do not let them bear any fruit the first season, and a maximum of 7 lb. each the second; then they will make growth. The majority of Apples do best in the open under the following treatment: Secure in each bush or standard, by the means indicated in my last chapter, from six to twelve main branches, growing upwards and outwards, so that at 1 yard from its base each shoot is at least 9 inches from its neighbours, and at 2 yards 18 inches. After the second year of possession, do not head these shoots hard back ; merely remove a few inches of the tips. About the middle of August go over the trees and shorten the side shoots (“‘ breastwood ”) on the main branches to five or six good leaves, and in the winter cut them back to two or three buds. A large crop of fine fruit is a certainty on this system, if cther things are right (Fig. 8, page 15). Some of the finest Apple trees I have ever seen are those growing at Hatfield, and Lord Salisbury’s head gardener summed them up well as “twelve cordons on each tree.” Every main branch is roped with splendid fruit like a trained cordon on a wall. There are a few Apples, of which Lady Sudeley may be quoted as an example, which bear on the tips of the young wood; with these a good supply of breastwood should be allowed. Apricots.—An Apricot tree which has been shortened as a yearling, and trained into the shape of a fan in the same way as a Peach tree, is very easy to manage. It will produce three classes of growth: (1) Extension shoots, which may be laid in between the principal “ribs” of the fan if 17 SUMMER PRUNING APRICOTS. “LOOIYdV AHL ONINOUd—6é “DId ‘SCUOM MUA NI SENIH NIWId—OlLOVad TVYIMOLOId “p00. paynud aouay Sjrnaf br -yfns you 40 hid oud sv hyyuandDasq Lf ffoay paryr qo 6 *$a..D8} JO sasvq 7 q Burmoys NNOWA “sqno qybrt pun Buosm fo syynsas ‘gq “payonjap hpbu0.m yaaq aany Yyorym $7001 wo syno fo aonjd pun uorpaip sadosd ay) ayDoLpUr saUr] SSOu9 PayOp oY], *SJOO.L JDJWOZLLOY UO gna panmdn ‘y {400.2 anbyqo wp uo yno panmdn ‘B £4004 unop youoboip 9 uo yno punmdn Ayyybrys YF £004 umop qybvo.js DB WO ynd ssoLon-qybyn4ys LO assoaswun.4y ‘a? LHDIX “pasinig yung Pun poom YI0g pup Jo paadoyo 00n “p fapnds y2 fo asn sadoudwa oy fig quids qoou ‘0 ano pupmumop » fig payrnjap qo0.1 ‘q f ULoz yung 247 pun pabbol Buraq poom ayy ‘wauunu burjbung D up do ‘apods qunjg » ym payoojep yoon ‘v ? HNOUAL ‘aunpaooud Burmoys oa. addy uy Jo wmazshs zon ‘yr “SLONTTTALL ‘SLOOU ANNYd OL MOH—'TS “OIlI "SauOM ADI NI SLNIH NIVId—AOILOVUd TVIYOLOIC Ne | ah | f ? 1 33 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. of culture. If I may be permitted a seeming paradox, the roots were kept up through being afforded every facility for going down. The land was very deeply trenched and thoroughly pulverised, so that you could press a walking stick up to the handle in it without much difficulty—admirably calculated, one would say, to encourage roots to descend. Well, they did not strike down, and for this reason: A soil that is thoroughly pulverised is a soil that is full of air and moisture. It does not crack through drought, because it is never dry. If it were dry near the top, roots would rush down to try and find moisture below; as it is moist near the top the roots stay there. The soil being full of air, the “solubising” (to coin a word) of plant food is in full progress, and the tree rapidly multiplies its feeding fibres in order to take advantage of the good things. In my experience, now approaching a quarter of a century, amongst cultivated trees, I have seen all sorts of devices resorted to for making them healthy and fruitful, from doing away with grafting to hanging bricks on the branches, or laying pavements under orchards; from tremendously hard pruning to no pruning at all. But none of them (harmless and amusing for the most part) ever got together so magnificent a lot of trees as those which I have been describing. It follows from what has been said that simply chopping off so many roots from a fruit tree is not the be-all and end-all of root management. The first thing is to get the soil into the right mechanical condition for holding moisture through long periods of drought, and for permitting the free ingress of air. When this condition is secured by trenching, exposure to the atmosphere, and vigorous manipulation by spade or fork, early relifting will do nearly all the rest, To come to details, a young tree should not be lifted when the growth is short and fruit spurs are forming fast, but a tree should be lifted when the summer growths are numerous, are 18 inches long or more, and devoid of fruit buds. Begin 3 feet from the tree, work carefully towards the stem, and as soon as fibres are met with delve down below the tree and work it out. ‘Lhe operation may be performed as soon as the leaves ripen in autumn, if the weather be showery and the soil moist; but if dry it should be deferred. It may be objected that the foregoing remarks only have interest for those people who are starting with fruit, and that they are not of much value to the large number who enjoy a legacy of trees from a bygone generation. Such a protest would be reasonable. ‘There are thousands of trees in the country of which the roots are in an unsatisfactory condition that are too large to lift, and may not be done away with. In this case it is well to make a trench round the tree so as to get at the roots, doing half one year and half the next, whenever a tree seems disinclined to bloom. Root pruning is often carelessly done, the roots being severed by blows with a spade. A knife (or a small saw for very thick roots) should be used. It should be remembered that the growing roots of a tree are much softer than the branches, and a sharp pruning knife will easily sever any root up to 1 inch in thickness. Downward cuts should not be made. Up- ward cuts are better, because the fibres which push from them have a sendency to strike horizontally rather than downward (see B, Fig. 21, page 35). In root pruning large trees a special effort should be made to cut strong roots striking obliquely into bad subsoil. These are often difficult to get at, as I know from sad experience, for they often plunge down almost per- pendicularly at a short distance from the bole; but some of them ought to be attacked, as they are a terrible source of unfruitful top growth. ~ 37 STOOKS FOR FRUIT TREES. “wapna) “a qoig 40 addy pry fo pass 40 dad wouf quug Bbuypass ‘g 4 sqoou burpaaf aayon wo saigy ‘a : sz00u soyown wo 40.1070) fsqooys apis “yInoLb ‘q {sven Gurypusosap wo yoou diy ‘n : y00]8 ,, 29Lf,, Dp yuna “a £ 410]]09 "4 buypna] ‘6 Ssjooys ams so spnsaym) ‘f Ssien Burpuaosn ay pun ‘pnuf sapro fo paas 10 dad wou addy burypass ‘yp £sqoot 01a to ways ‘a S pooy pun soos fo uoyounl so 90.29 fo 4071)09 ‘p “STONAVAATY ig. haere a (8¢ abnd 208) “SHTUL LIN YO SHOOLS AWOS JO WALSAS LOOW AHL—7zz ‘pli payne hywou ‘SCUOM MOT NI SINIH NIVId—dOLLOVUd IVINOLOId -uoo ‘tafin? wmouf addy asypowng “Cr “wappa) ‘tb Ssjooys apis ‘B fanqoo ‘& £39098 QQ 0 payoohyuow ~uwoo “(sn oy snifig) 38 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Chapter V.—Fruit Stocks and Grafting. CARLYLE made fun, in his grim, sly way, of the countryman who “had no system”; but Hodge gets along rather better, in happy ignorance of what he would probably describe as his “innards,” than a good many people whose vast knowledge of physiology only just stops short at ability to conduct a learned post-mortem on themselves. Ignorance was just as bliss- ful in the case of the old-style fruit grower, who knew nothing about the system of his trees, yet managed to get more fruit off them than the man who knew everything. . In these days we are not satisfied with knowing that a certain tree will bear Apples if we will only let it; we want to know what stock it is on, how it was worked, whether the man who budded or grafted it has passed an examination in pomology, and various other side items. Well, there is no harm in knowing a few facts about stocks, so long as we do not make the mistake of thinking that such information alone will fill the fruit room and reduce Covent Garden to astonished admiration : let us therefore glance at them for a few moments, A man has only to passa probation in a fruit nursery to learn that there are scores of fruit stocks; and he has only to keep his eyes open to discover that half a dozen of them are vastly more important than all the rest. What, to begin with, is a “stock”? It isa species of the same genus as the fruit with which it is associated, of very poor fruiting qualities, yet possessing merits in the way of free, healthy, hardy growth, or of abundant rooting near the surface of the soil. Some people would do away with stocks, and grow the fruits from seed or cuttings on their own roots and stems. Other people admonish the earth for not being flat, and sow their seeds at the full of the moon. They are all harmless. Most of us make the best of the earth as it is, and adapt ourselves to the best systems of propagating fruit trees in the same philo- sophic spirit. Here are a few of the stocks used for fruit trees :— Apples.—Broad-leaved Paradise, narrow-leaved Paradise, Doucin, Non- such, Crab, and free (free stocks are seedlings of cultivated Apples, principally cider sorts). ; Apricots, same as Peaches or Plums. Cherrics.—Mahaleb for dwarf trees, Gean and seedlings for standards. Peaches and Nectarines—Almond, Mussel, Myrobalan, St. Julien, and others. Pears.—Common Pear and Quince. Plums.—Brompton, Brussels, Black Damask, Mussel, seedling Plums, St. Julien, and others. The most important of these are the broad-leaved Paradise and the Crab (Apples); the Gean and the Mahaleb (Cherries); the Mussel and St. Julien (Peaches and Nectarines); the Pear and Quince (Pears); the Brompton and Mussel (Plums). With respect to Pears, however, there are some varieties which will not take to any stock, and have to be worked on a foster variety which is already established on the stock before they will make a good union. I have found Beurré d’Amanlis to be the most useful of these foster Pears; Ollivier de Serres is also serviceable, and there are. many others. 39 GRAFTING YOUNG FRUIT TREES. (‘Anjo fo pnajsur pasn 29 fow wom burzfory) ‘finja fo wowoas ‘a Soungoby ‘n ‘Burin pun. burhy sayfo ‘A s4oyjabo} pagzyf woos pun y003s “fo1 spng 90.114 ‘pauazoys wors ‘s £ 30038 wof Buruado ‘b fenbuog ‘Bf yna'd : na puooas yun uows ‘yt “uows Lof Buruado ‘o £ paw.of snyz anbuoy ‘u fyno ‘ue 2 7na pwosas yp yooIS ‘AT +y9038 fo doy 1 07 aapjnoys "2 yo ysuf yum uows ‘» Rance. » dAremberg. » Capiaumont. » él Assomption. » dAnjou. Sterckmans, » Diel. 3 Giffard, Triomphe de Jodoigne. Souvenir du Congres. 3rockworth Park. Clapp’s Favourite. If we add to the ing several splendid lections :-— Gansel’s Bergamot. Van Mons’ Leon Leclereq. Hacon’s Incompar- able. Pitmaston Duchess, Passe Colmar. Knight’s Monarch, Nee Plus Meuris. Princess. above the following varieties, we have the material for form- col- Jersey Gratioli. Ollivier de Serres. Winter Nélis. Bergamotte Esperen. Citron des Carmes. ‘hompson’s. Marie Louise d’Uccle. Doyenné du Comice. $f Boussoch, Marguerite Marrillat. Fertility. Nouvelle Fualvie. Louise Bonne of Jersey, Josephine de Malines, Durondeau. Uvedale’s St. Germains. Zephirin Gregoire. Magnate. Jargonelle. Easter Beurré. Duchesse d’Angouléme. Madame ‘Treyve. Chaumontel. Maréchal (Conseiller) de la Cour. General Todleben. Fondante d’Automne. Emile d’Heyst. Marie Louise. Williams's Bon Chrétien. Glou Morgeau. Conference. FIG. 39.—PEAR DURONDEAU. SULECTIONS OF PEARS. 57 ioe i FIG. 40,—PEAR BEURRE HARDY. 12 Pears of Very Fine Flavour. Beurré Superfin. 5 d’Aremberg. Doyenné du Comice. Gansel’s Bergamot. Jargonelle, Josephine de Malines. Knight’s Monarch. Maréchal de Cour. Marguerite Marrillat. Marie Louise. Seckle. Thompson’s. Marie Louise and Maréchal de Cour will not thrive in cold places, Pears suitable for Cordons, with their Seasons. July. Citron des Carmes. August. Beurré Giffard, *Jargonelle. August and September. *Marguerite Marrillat. Souvenir du Conerés. *Williams’s Bon Chré- tien. September. Beurré d’Amanlis. *Clapp’s Favourite. tDoyenné Boussoch. Madame ‘Treyve. September and October. Beurré Superfin. t¥ondanted’Automne, October, Beurré Capiaumont. » Hardy. *Emile d’Heyst. Jersey Gratioli. *Louise Bonne of Jer- sey. tSeckle. October and November. Beurré Diel. Conference. *Doyenné du Comice. +Durondeau. Gansel’s Bergamot, B +Maréchal de Cour. tMarie Louise. tPitmaston Duchess. November. Beurré Clairgeau. *Thompson’s. Van Mons’ Leon Le- clerceq. November and December. Pasze Colmar. Triomphe de Jo- doigne. November to January. Hacon’s Incompar- able. November to February, *Winter Nélis, November to March. Chaumontel. December and January. tGlou Morceau. Knight’s Monarch. tZephirin Gregoire. December to February. General ‘lodleben. Marie Benoist. January and February. *Josephine de Malines. January to April. tBergamotte Esperen. Easter Beurré. *Nec Plus Meuris. February and March. Nouvelle Fulvie. tOllivier de Serres. FIG. 41.—PEAR MARIE LOUISE, 58 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. If a selection of twelve is wanted from the above, choose those marked with an asterisk. If room can be found for a few more, add those marked with a dagger, Any of them would do for pyramids if the situation is not bleak, The Best Pear Grown. Doyenné du Comice. Leet gia FIG, 42.—PEAR WILLIAMS’S BON CHRETIEN, Pears for Stewing. A large number of Pears not specially grown for the purpose may be stewed if they do not ripen, but of the recognised varieties the following are the best :— October. January and later. January, and perhaps a Grosse Calebasse. Uvedale’s St. Ger- year afterwards. mains, Catillac. Hardy Pears Suitable for Standards. Beacon, Hessle. Lammas. Beurré Capiaumont, Jargonelle. Louise Bonne of Jersey. Fertility. Jersey Gratioli. Some of the Best Market Pears, Beacon. Conference. Hessle. Leurré Clairgeau, Durondeau. Lammas. » Caplaumont. Fertility, DPitmaston Duchess. \ ‘i. FIG, 43, PEAR WINTER NELIS. APRICOTS. 59 Chapter IX.—Selections of Stone Fruits. Apricots, Cherries, Nectarines, Peaches, and Plums form a quintette of dessert fruits very difficult to excel in richness and variety of flavour. A sun-warmed Apricot, ripe and mellow from the tree, and with an evening sky warmth of colour on its tawny skin, offers an | enticing delicacy to the garden epicure. A plump, ruddy or swarthy Cherry, say of the variety Black Eagle, or Napoleon Bigarreau, or Elton, at once juicy and _ crisp, creates an appetite as little recking of the con- ventionalities as that of Oliver ‘'wist. A Nectar- ine or a Peach, fresh ; : softened on the wall, is a cup of Nature's own FIG, 44,- NECTARINE HUMBOLDT. wine, give & dpageek (See page 61.) whose purity no alcohol- sodden system can fully enjoy. A real dessert Plum, say Transparent Gage, or Golden Drop, or Denniston’s Superb—what can be said of it save that it is a perfect sweet- meat, such as the Rahat Lakouin can never equal! Happy is the man who can manage to grow a collection of all these fruits on his garden walls, and another in pots for an orchard house. We have seen how garden trees are trained and pruned, and later on we may see how pot trees are managed. For the present, let us give at- tention tothe varieties, APRICOTS. It is rarely that a large collection of Apricots is grown ; in- deed, the fruit is not often represented by more than three or four varieties, even in large gardens. ‘This state of affairs affords agreat contrast tothat # . eae : reenter connected with Apples, FIG. 45.—-PEACH BARRINGTON. Pears, and Peaches. (See page 02.) 60 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. A narrow field of selec- tion has its advantages ; it saves the beginner a great deal of weary plodding through long lists of selections by experts, all of which are the best, yet all dif- ferent from each other! The Best Apricots. The following list comprises most of the best Apricots, and affords material for several good selecticns : FIG. 46.—PEACH NOBLESSE. (See page 62.) Blenheim (Shipley’s). Hemskerk. Moorpark. Breda. Kaisha. Oullins’ Early Peach. Early Moorpark. Large Early. Powell's Late. Frogmore Karly. Herve we have ten varieties. I can hardly imagine anyone requiring so many, and I will therefore sift them : Three for walls, Powell’s Late. Blenheim. Large Karly, Tro for exposed places. One for an amateur. Moorpark. Breda. Barly Moorpark, CHERRIES. Here we have not only more varieties, but a more even balance of merit, so that selection becomes more difficult. Let us, following the previous plan, first of all get a few of the best sorts before us, and then choose from amongst them, Some of the Best Cherries. Archduke. Black Tartarian. Governor Wood, Bigarreau, Kent (Amber » Hagle, Kentish. Heart). Early Rivers. May Duke. Bigarreau Napoleon. Elton. Morello. Here we have just short of a dozen varice ties, all possessing con- siderable merit, yet possible of reduction if all are not wanted, Let us classify them, Lour delicious dessert Cherries. Black Nagle. Early Rivers. Elton. Bigarreau Napoleon, A Selection of tro, nei 4 . Barly Rivers. FIG. 47.—PEACH DYMOND, Bigarreau Napoleon, (See page 62.) THE BEST NECTARINES. 61 One only. Bigarreau Napoleon. Three for succession, Early Rivers. Bigarreau Napoleon. Black Eagle. Three for market. Bigarreau, Kent, Early Rivers, : Kentish. ; Ino for cooking. FIG, 48.—PEACH WALBURTON ADMIRABLE. “Kentish. (See page 62.) Morello. NECTARINES. This fruit is not, perhaps, open to all; certainly it is not every person who can indulge himself in a collection, and ensure a supply for many months by growing them under glass. Still, there is often a wall on which room may be found for two or three trees, if no more. The following list gives splendid material from which to choose: Some of the Best Nectarines. Advance. Humboldt. Spencer. Cardinal, Lord Napier. Stanwick Elruge. Dryden. Newton. Victoria. Goldoni. Pine Apple. Violette Hative. The man who can grow all the above has reason to congratulate himself, for they are a magnificent lot. Now to analyse the list: Six for succession. Pine Apple. Victoria. Cardinal. Victoria. Tro for an outdoor wall. Lord Napier. Three for succession. Lord Napier. Stanwick Elruge. Lord Napier. Stanwick Elruge, Humboldt. Humboldt. PEACHES. In the whole range of fruits there is nothing more interesting than the Peach, and it is to be regretted that it is dying out as an open- air fruit. Two things have conduced to this: (1) cheap glass; (2) re- ductions of staff in gar- dens. It is natural that those who can afford a range of houses should nae have it, for the crop is FIG, 49.—PEACH CONDOR. sure, and a succession (See page 62.) fon} Lo PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. easily provided. At the same time it must not beforgotten that there are many examples left to prove that outdoor Peach culture is not a lost art, notably at Chiswick. Some of the Best Peaches. : : Alexander. FIG. 50,—PEACH SEA EAGLE. Amsden June. Barrington. Bellegarde. Condor, Hale’s Early. Sea Eagle. Dymond. Noblesse. Stirling Castle. Early Grosse Mignonne. Rivers’s Early York. Walburton Admirable. Gladstone. Royal George. Waterloo. Grosse Mignonne, Six for succession. Royal George. Grosse Mignonne. Hale’s Early. Sea Eagle. Sea Eagle. Rivers’s Early York, WalburtonAdmirable. To for outdoors, Karly Grosse Mig- Three for succession. Dymond. nonne, Hale's Karly. Sea Eagle. PLUMS. Some of the choicest varietics of Plums rival the most delicious of dessert fruits in flavour, and it is a little to be regretted that collections of them are not oftener seen. ‘There are hundreds of gardens in which the only Plum represented is Victoria. This is admittedly one of the grandest hardy fruits grown, but I cannot allow that it is good enough to represent the whole class, inasmuch as it is only suitable for cooking. Of course, it is ersten raw, but not by those people who have access to choice sorts. It will be well to set the Plums before us in two sections. Some Good Cooking Plums. é ~, } Antumn Compote. Belle de Septembre. Cox's Emperor. Diamona. Early Orleans. Gisborne’s Prolific. Monarch. Pond’s Seedling. Rivers’s Prolific. The Czar. Victoria. : : White Magnum FIG, 51—PLUM TRANSPARENT GAGE, Bonum. (See page 63.) SOME OF THE BEST PHRACHES. 63 Here we hare twelve, and they must be reduced a little. Six for cvoking. Cox’s Emperor. Gisborne’s, Monarch. Rivers's Prolific. The Czar. Victoria. Three for cooking. Rivers’s Prolitic. : Le é a Monarch. FIG, 52.--PLUM MAGNUM BONUM. Victoria. (See page 62.) One carly, one late. Rivers’s Prolific. Victoria. One for preserving. Gisborne’s. The best for a wall. Gisborne’s, Rivers’s Prolific. Victoria. Four for market. Victoria. The best ever raised, Early Orleans. The best for a standard. VICTORIA. Victoria. Some Good Dessert Plums. Angelina Burdett. Coe’s Golden Drop. Purple Gage. Belgian Purple. Green Gage. Reine Clande de Bavay. Blue Impératrice. Jefferson’s. Transparent Gage. Bryanstone Gage. Kirke’s. Washington. Oullins Golden. A baker’s dozen. Lucky the baker, or any other man, who has the whole thirteen. Six in order of ripening. Early Transparent Three in order of ripen- Belgian Purple. Gage. ing. Denniston’s Superb. Jefferson's. Belgian Purple. Green Gage. Coe’s Golden Drop. Early ‘Transparent Gage. Coe’s Golden Drop. Three Good Damsons in Ripening Order. Farleigh Prolific. Bradley’s King. Prune. @ area! FIG. 53,—PLUM REINE CLAUDE DE BAVAY. 64, PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Chapter X.—Selections of Bush Fruits. CURRANTS, Gooseberries, and Raspberries—for the last named may be classed amongst the bush fruits as a matter of convenience, and without seriously straining a point—do not give any serious trouble in selection, except perhaps to meet the case of the man, happily not often encountered, who wants the names of fifty or sixty Lancashire prize Gooseberries, with their colours. Now the fruits named are everyday sort of things, very rarely taken much notice of, except when they are in bearing; but it is just as easy to grow good varieties as bad ones, and much more profitable ; therefore, let us dissect the catalogues, The Best Currants. Three good Reds. Three good Blacks. A good White. Comet. Baldwin’s. White Dutch. Raby Castle (Vic- Black Naples. Two good market varies toria). Lee’s Prolific. ties. Red Dutch. One good Black. Baldwin's. One good Red. Lee’s Prolific. Red Dutch. Raby Castle, The Best Gooseberries. Five for gathering green. Four for flavour. Catherina, yellow. Crown Bob, Bright Venus, white. Dan’s Mistake, red. Keepsake. Early Sulphur, yellow. Leveller, yellow Lancashire Lad. Pitmaston Greengage, London, red. Whinham’s Industry. green. Stockwell, green. Whitesmith. Red Champagne, red. A good sort for pre One for gathering green. Six very large varieties. serving. Whinham’s Industry. Antagonist, white. Red Warrington. The Best Raspberries. There are many Raspberries, but only a dozen or so are in general cultivation, and several of these are really hardly worth growing, consider- ing how much superior two particular varieties are :— Six of the best sorts. Superlative. A good autwmn bearer. Baumforth’s Seedling. Yellow Antwerp. October Red. Carter’s Prolific. Two of the best. A good sort for pre- Hornet. Carter’s Prolific. serving, October Red. Superlative. Semper Fidelis. Canker References (see page 65), A, part of the stem and branches of an Apple tree: a, portions of clean stem; b, an affected branch ; c, diseased branches, Canker on stem: d, wound with corticated bark surrounding the wound, but not giving visible sign of infection by parasitic organism ; e, wound bearing in cle/ts of the bark at the circumference of the wound fruits of Canker Fungus, Nectria ditissima. Canker on branches: f, completely girdled, and parts above the wounds killed, young growths pushed from healthy parts below points of attack, but the parasite is still existent in the bark below the dead jarts of the branches ; g, wounds on branches, but not to the extent of girdling them; h, shoot killed in the year of attack. B, fruits (perithecia or spore capsules) enlarged 25 diameters. C, asci or bladders of Fungus with spores, magnified 250 times. D, spore of Fungus: 4, germinal, tube, enlarged 650 diameters. CANKER. 65 PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. FIG. 54.~ CANKER ON APPLE TREE, (See pages 64 and 67.) 66 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Chapter X1.— Fruit Enemies. A NURSERY foreman once remarked to me, in a plaintive and piteous way, that there appeared to be a special provision of Nature for fruit trees to be harassed and attacked at all stages of their annual round. ‘here was, he pointed out, a foliage foe at hand directly the first tinge of green showed itself; there was a blossom enemy armed for action as soon as the trusses unfolded; and there was a fruit antagonist eager for mischief as soon as the fruit had set. ; Alas! it is too true that cultivated fruits are beset with assailants. Whatever kind we grow there is something provided for attacking it ; and be the circumstances what they may, there is no such thing as complete im- munity. Some enemies attack all sorts of fruit trees indiscriminately, and as arule their efforts are supplemented by those of other pests peculiar to each class of tree. Harassed growers are sometimes inclined to rail at perverse Nature, but in the long run it will pay to exhibit disapproval in a more tangible form, 7.e. with washes, insecticides, and sprayers. The best cultivated tree is generally the least affected, and it may be taken as an axiom that high culture is a direct means of keeping insects and fungi in check ; but it is vain to hope that everything can be accomplished with spade, manure, and pruning tool. There will have to be a certain amount of special effort, and the wise grower will always have an item on the debit side for insecticides. I propose to make a few remarks on the principal fruit enemies under two heads: (1) general enemies, which usually attack more than one kind of fruit ; (2) pests that, as a rule, are peculiar to one sort. GENERAL ENEMIES. American Blight.—A persistent and troublesome enemy, but one which ought not to do a tithe of the damage it causes, inasmuch as it flaunts itself before the eyes of the grower in the form of thick white patches, which rapidly spread from shoot to shoot until the tree possesses quite a wintry aspect. Left to itself, this pest does damage both directly and indirectly. Its own individual operations cripple the tree, and, moreover, it predisposes to canker. If American blight were kept under there would not be half the loss from canker which now takes place. The enemy, like nearly every other, fails to become formidable if attacked on its first appearance. Half an hour with a camel hair brush and a small bottle of methylated spirit or petroleum sometimes saves days of irksome labour. The liquid should be carefully applied. To plaster it all over the tree would mean destruction to the latter. Take care that the application is so made that the bodies of the insects serve as a buffer between the brush and the tree. Only a careless operator will do harm. Where an attack has developed to proportions rendering small measures impossible, wash No. 1 may be selected from the list on page 78, Aphides.—A large and prolific family, sporting a variety of colours but only one form of appetite. The “black fly” of Peaches, the “ dolphin” of Beans, the “brown fly” of Plums, the “green fly” of scores of crops— fruit, vegetable, and flower—belong to this ancient house. Fortunately APHIDES AND CANKER. 67 they are easy to kill; and if cultivators would only retnember the old proverb that “a stitch in time saves nine,” which is sound sense, if faulty rhyme, there would be trifling loss. So simple a remedy as 1 oz. of washing soda dissolved in 1 gallon of water and applied at 150°, is enough, but No. 4, page 78, may be resorted to in case of emer- gency. Canker.—tThis is perhaps the most dreaded of all fruit enemies. It is no respecter of kinds or varietie:. Under certain conditions it will set its evil clasp on almost everything; in other circum- . stances it will limit its attack to afew sorts. FIG. 55.—WINGLESS APHIDES, It does the most damage amongst Apples; MAGNIFIED. and of varieties, perhaps there are no worse sufferers than Ribston Pippin and Lord Suffield. It is important to remember that a variety which is very little affected in some districts is very badly attacked in another, where the soil is different—probably heavier. As an instance, Lord Suffield thrives in many parts of Kent, notably in the Swanley district. Yet I know an orchard on clay in East Kent in which every tree is cankering to death. The culture is good, and other sorts succeed, but Lord Suffield is a rank failure. Instances of this sort are instructive, for they show what a number of side issues there are in fruit growing. I shall give special attention to this matter when I come to make my selections. What is canker? It is a fungus, and its name is Nectria ditissima. Does it pierce healthy bark, extract juices from the sap vessels, and so cripple the tree? No, it waits until it finds a joint loose in the bark armour, then thrusts in its germinal tube, and establishes itself. “It spreads under the bark, and the latter becomes unhealthy. An experienced eye can tell when a tree is “going to canker”—as a matter of fact, it is already cankered—by the appearance of the bark, which becomes swollen and chippy some time before a large: wound is seen. The fungus throws up propagating growths in autumn and early winter, and the faster it increases the more unbealthy the bark becomes. ‘The wound d@ nearly halfway up the tree A in the figure on page 65 is a typical one. A great deal of bark has died away altogether, leaving the smooth inner wood exposed ; there is also dead bark. FIG, 56.—BLACK APHIDES, WINGED AND Usually the latter is associ- WINGLESS, MAGNIFIED. ated with rolls of clean, healthy-looking growth. Good and bad influences are at work here. The fungus is attempting to girdle the stem so that it may die; the tree is endeavouring to cover the exposed area with new tissue so that it may live, 68 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Higher up, at ¢, is seen another wound with the canker fruits showing, and at various points on the side branches other wounds may be seen. ; It will be well to glance at a few causes of canker before coming to remedies. In my opinion there are three which eclipse all others, and I will place them in what I consider to be their order of infamy :— 1. Unsuitable soil, either from poverty or peculiarity of variety. 2. Predisposing injury by aphides, birds, or man. 3. Rubbing by crossed branches. If the soil in which fruit trees are grown were systematically cultivated and manured (see previous chapter), there would be two-thirds less canker than there is now; and if growers were careful in choosing varieties the proportion of unhealthy tives would be still less. It is impossible to prevent all external injury to fruit trees, but by keeping down aphides and exercising care in handling at planting and pruning time the damage is reduced toa minimum. It is quite possible to avoid all injury by branch-rubbing (see “ Pruning’). Can canker be cured when it has got a firm hold? This is a question that is usually answered in the negative. Personally, I protest against so swift a surrender of the position. It is easy, of course, to “let things slide,” but it is not very profitable, nor altogether creditable either. There are doubtless cases in which the enemy is master of the situation, but there are certainly a great many others in which he could be met and defeated. If a fruit grower has a number of trees which canker badly, and they prove to be of one or two particular varieties, he will be justified in con- cluding that the soil does not suit those sorts. If the trees are old the best thing will be to get rid of them; if they are young he may graft them with a stronger sort (see chapter on ‘‘ Grafting”). In Nottinghamshire I have seen trees of Ribston Pippin, so badly cankered that the trunk was nearly girdled, brought back to health and vigour by grafting them with the strong and hardy variety Bramley’s Seedling. The great gaping wounds on the bole have completely healed. Where canker is pretty general, affecting nearly all the varieties, it is safe to assume that there is something wrong with the soil. It is perhaps undrained; or it is poverty stricken. Want of drainage accounts for an enormous amount of loss from canker. Fruit plantations on a slope are usually drained naturally; but on a plateau, or in a valley, pipes are frequently wanted. If pipes are laid 30 inches deep in strong land, and the soil above is bastard trenched and winter ridged, the ground will be 30 much warmer, sweeter, and more fertile that the trees are bound to be benefited. If the soil is poor it should be fed in the way described in a APPLE AND PEAR SCAB (see pages 69 and 79). A, small scabbed Apple, natural size, showing a, black spots ; b, depressed brown or black patch ee cites 3 ¢, potnt of advance by Fungus, prostrate hyphe or mycelium beneath the shin of fruit. B, section of a bit of the fruit tissues where the skin was broken through by the Fungus, showing d, skin (epidermis) turned up; e, spores of Fungus (Fusichadium dendriticum) in position ; f, mycelium of Fungus ; g, cells of Apple. . C, leaf of Apple tree, natural size, showing h, black dots and blotches caused by Fungus. D, Fungus broken through membrane of Apple tree leaf: i, spores; j, mycelium. E, small scabbed Pear, natural size, showing depressed patch caused by Fungus, with scabbed places where this has broken through the skin. F, the nos Scab and Cracking Fungus, Fusichadiwm dendriticum or pyrinum : 1, spores; m mycelium. 69 FIG. 57._APPLE AND PEAR SCAB. (For References see page 68; for Remedies see page 79 ) 70 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. previous chapter. I have often known so simple a thing as a coat of manure check canker. In the early stages of the disease much good may often be effected by cutting out the diseased portions with a sharp knife or chisel, and then dressing with Stockholm tar. I have thus operated on hundreds of trees, and while on the one hand I have never seen a solitary instance of injury accrue, I have in many cases known direct benefit follow. Every particle of diseased and unwholesome-looking tissue should be cut out, and the Stockholm tar (which may be purchased quite cheaply at any gasworks) applied with an ordinary paint brush. Gum.—tThis disease is common to the three principal stone fruits— Plums, Cherries, and Peaches. Supporters of own-root fruit trees have an argument in their favour here, for ‘‘ worked” (i.e. budded or grafted) trecs are, I have observed, the likeliest to go off. Experience among the extensive stone fruit orchards of Kent teaches me that there is more vigour and longevity among natural than worked trees, The drawback to the former is that they are much longer becoming fruitful than worked trees, and we cannot do without these. Young trees that become badly affected should be removed and destroyed. Isolated branches or shoots of larger trees may be cut out and burnt. When, however, a tree of some ycars’ standing gums badly, and then throws out clusters of stem skoots—the two things accompany each other too often to be without connection—get another ready; it will be wanted. Growers must not be misled on the score of fertilisers. In the case of gum they often represent a waste of money, aggravating rather than relieving the malady. A strong and hardy rootstock is the.thing to aim at. Lichen and Moss.—These are enemies, and serious ones, though not insects. By rendering the tree foul they greatly impair its health. The Californian wash of caustic soda and pearlash, No. 11 in the list of washes on page 79, will be found the best remedy; and with a preliminary scraping by means of a piece of hoop iron even bad cases may be cured. It should, however, always be remembered that lichen and moss are much the worst in cold, undrained soil. . Mealy Bug.—Gardeners dread this pest, and well they may, for if once it gets a firm hold it is most difficult to get rid of. An early attack is of the greatest importance. Vigorous syringing is very good practice, for so simple a thing as cold water has its effect if applied hard and often. As an insecticide, see No. 5, page 78. Red Spider.—This tiny pest causes trouble with more than one class of fruit, both under glass and in the open. It worries the Grape grower, and gives the Gooseberry cultivator many an anxious hour. It thrives in an arid atmosphere, and does its worst when the plants which it is attack- ing are in difficulties owing to drought. Moisture is a great help in keeping red spider in check. With a moist, buoyant atmosphere under glass it has very little encouragement to spread. In the garden a deeply worked soil, kept loose on the surface, is of advantage, because it holds moisture. Mulchings of manure are also good. Tor a wash, see No. 5, page 78. Scab.—tThis fungus attacks both leaves and fruit. Asin the case of so many other pests, the encouragement of healthy, wholesome, vigorous growth is the best preventive. Should the disease appear, attack it early with No. 7 or No, 8, page 79. THE WINTER MOTH. CHECKING “HLOW USTLNIM MOHD OL SHAUL LINUI ONIGNVA AMOLLS—'ss ‘N14 ‘SCHOM Mel NI SLNIH NIVId—GOILLOVUd TVINOLOId < we spaunaas sr Buryons 40 UNI] YOLYAL v} ‘aprsu apum v yy wy fo agpsr6 ‘yf pod Oo} Uaras VS LO UdU) Buoys ‘8 Smaps punos pavnb xy of plow Yo oat} papyoso fo ways uo pari{y pionb you woipvo) pao sappy papi “T "ULays ULO.bf SaYOUDLG as ae | fo woynrpns. 40 poay fo asng ‘a fpung sadibie ‘p< spoasuy Bur “Quays 43Y}0 pup syjow ssaburm “Ly op asvash ysvo LO asnas 2IXY YUN pacnaus aoufens soy ay)? £9 ‘BHwurwys YypLNr sovpa saddam puv sano) wan pasnaas ‘abot food fo pung samo} ‘9 £.401}09 pazjno samajauos ‘Qvos yz ways fo UorpUN! Lo ‘aa.t) fo qing ‘vw : papung ayqnop wWazs ‘aat) apd y punpunjs (qaaf 9) get 'T C34 abil ogy) ag) “‘SHONATTH ATL En paeng Une 72 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. Scale.—There are several forms, all dangerous. Limewashing the trunks of trees (No. 2, page 78) is a good and inexpensive plan. As destroyers, try (1) dabbing with a small brush dipped in methylated spirit, (2) syringing in winter with water heated up to 160° to 180°, (3) “ soaparite,” No. 1, page 78. With respect to (1), the plan is only suitable to small infestations and careful workers. Thrips.—A particularly lively and troublesome enemy, attacking a great many different crops. A splendid remedy will be found in No. 6, page 79. In this and every other case attack the pest before it has assumed over- whelming proportions. : In the following list of the principal pests attacking the different fruits no pretence is made to give an elaborate essay on each, but concise bints are given embodying preventives and remedies. APPLE ENEMIES. The Blossom Weevil (Anthonomus Pomorwm).—The weevil bores a hole in a closed bud and lays an egg; the maggot feeds on the bud and turns to a chrysalis there. (1) Open out the trees and encourage the rapid opening of the buds. (2) Remove and burn all loose strips of bark in winter, then limewash. (3) The ‘sticky bands referred to under Winter Moth will probably stop some of the female moths. (4) Spray or syringe when the trees are in bud with No. 3, page 78. : The Sawfly (Zenthredo testudinea).—The caterpillar resulting from this fly is light brown, having three pairs of claw and seven of sucker feet, } inch long. Eggs are laid in the blossoms in May, and holes eaten in the fruit by the caterpillars, which emerge and enter the ground when the fruit falls. (1) Spread lime on the surface soil, and lightly fork it in. (2) Destroy all worthless fallen fruit. (3) Apply the Paris Green spray No. 3, page 78, before the fruit turns down in spring. The Winter Moth (Cheimatobia brumata).—Eggs are laid on the stems, about the spurs, and at the points of the young shoots. Cater- pillars hatch with the mild weather of spring, and feed on the break- ing buds. (1) The application of sticky bands is becoming unpopular, yet it has something to recommend it. In one small orchard I counted, one mid-December day, thirty of the greyish spidery female moths captive, and there were plenty more left when I got tired of counting. ‘The following rules should be observed: To get paper that is greaseproof; to use fairly deep bands, say 9 to 12 inches; to tie with two strings, one at the top and one at the bottom; and to. prepare a grease that, on the one hand, does not run, and, on the other, does not dry quickly and set. I have had successful results from sheets of butter paper purchased for a copper or two at the grocer’s, and dressed with cart grease partially liquefied with palm oil. All these articles are easy to get and very cheap. Do not let the middle of November pass before the bands are put on. (2) The Paris Green solution, No. 3, page 78, may be sprayed on in spring. Take care to mix the stuff thoroughly, and to put it on in a fine, dew-like shower. (3) Pruning after Christmas results in many eggs being destroyed, and where convenient this cutting should be practised. In many cases labour considerations, I am aware, prevent the practice, which, however, is good. Cedlin Moth (Carpocapsa pomonella.)\—Visits to many orchards (not, alas, excepting my awn) convince me that this is far the worst enemy which has had to be dealt with during the past few years. I have seen %3 LACKEY MOTH AND CATERPILLAR. CHL, alin aag) ‘SDIML NO SDD DNIAMOHS ‘UVITIGUSLVO GNV HLOW ATMOVI JHL—'6s ‘DIT ¥ 74 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. hundreds of pounds’ worth of fruit destroyed by it. In most instances the grower looked on, complaining, but doing nothing. ‘he mischief is done by a small caterpillar, whitish, with brown head, hairy, having three pairs of claw and five of sucker feet, which results from an egg laid in the eye of the fruit late in spring. On hatching, the grub eats its way into the fruit, which eventually falls. (1) Remove and burn loose bark in winter; (2) limewash, or scrub with “soaparite,” page 78; (3) rigorously destroy all worthless fruit as it falls. Usually it is left lying, which is bad. (4) Spray with Paris Green, No. 3, as previously recommended, before the setting fruit turns down. ‘he grub then dies as it feeds. Small Ermine Moth (Ayponomeuta malivorelia).—Although this is not an everyday pest, a wrecked orchard I saw in the Midlands taught me what it can do if allowed to have its way. ‘The caterpillar, which is ash coloured and spotted with black, appears in spring from eggs laid in patches and gummed to the twigs. It and its companions live in web tents among the leaves. (1) Brush away and destroy the webs at first sight, so saving future trouble; (2) give the trees a vigorous shaking, and destroy any fallen caterpillars. The Lackey Moth (Bombyx neustria).—The caterpillars of this moth, which I have found on Pears as well as on Apples, result from eggs laid in rings round the young shoots and attached by a dark, pitch- like substance, They sport a variety of gay colours, and live in large webs, or may be seen swinging by their threads. (1) Speaking from experience, much the best way of dealing with the Lackey is to look out for the egg patches at pruning time, cut off the twigs, and burn them. As a rule, a great number are not found in each tree, and consequently the labour is not great. When, however, it is remembered that each patch may yield a large number of caterpillars it is seen that the work is worth doing. (2) An old broom intelligently wielded facilitates the removal of many swinging caterpillars, APRICOT ENEMIES. Branch Decay.—There is more loss from this trouble than from the attacks of insects. See “ Varieties” in a previous chapter, also ‘‘Gum.” No wash will stop the evil. I think that it is less marked when the roots are un- disturbed under a pavement than it isin cultivated borders. Apricot growers ought to remember that this fruit greatly resents root disturbance. The Moth (Zrtriv angustionara).—The small greenish yellow caterpillar of this moth, appearing in the spring, causes the leaves to curl. (1) The only real remedy then is hand work, which in the case of extensive cultures is costly. (2) Where the trouble has existed in previous seasons spray with Paris Green, No, 3, CHERRY ENEMIES. Slug-worm (Selandria atra).—I have had much trouble with this pest, which is also common on the Pear. ‘he blackish blobs, thickened at one end, are frequently abundant in summer. (1) Where a few wall trees are concerned not much damage need be done, as during the morning walk round the garden the slugs may be crushed between bits of flat wood carried in each hand, (2) In the case of larger trees two or three dustings of lime, repeated at intervals of a few days, are effectual. Mottled Umber Moth (Aybernia defoliaria).—The brown, yellow CHERRY AND CURRANT ENEMIES. 75 striped looper caterpillar of this moth appears in spring, attacking the foliage and young fruit. (1) Smear a hayband with tar and twist round the base (not on the trunk) of the tree. (2) Occasionally shake the trees, (3) In bad infestations spray with Paris Green, No. 3, page 78. Black Fly.—See “ Aphides.” Winter Moth.—See ‘ Apples,” CURRANT ENEMIES. Black Currant Gall Mite (Phytoptus Ribis).—The ravages of this pest, long serious, are becoming more so every year. Among many examples of its work I may quote one in East Kent, where about 8 acres of Currants were completely ruined by it. The mite appears to be most capricious in its attacks, Sometimes it affects one variety and leaves another alone; in other cases the position as to sorts is reversed. Again, it usually spreads from bush to bush when established; yet I have known it to attack and destroy several bushes, then disappear, leaving those around untouched. Unhappily the latter instances are not common. ‘lhe mites are exceedingly minute objects, and they become en- scouced in the buds, which lose their conical shape, becoming broad, cupped, and scaly. I have seen traces of attack in November, and from that time on- wards through the winter the swollen buds become more numerous. To acquire familiarity with the enemy slice open a distorted bud and place it under a microscope. Remedies: (1) Directly swollen buds are seen pick them off and burn them, or cut of the twig and putit on the fire. (2) If the evil has spread FIG. 60.-THE MAGPIE MOTH. without the grower observing it and a whole bush is affected, burn it bodily. (8) Do not plant another Currant on the same spot, even if lime has been dusted about and pointed in. I have known it done, and the new bush was soon as bad as the old. (4) After removing twigs in a small infestation spray the bush with the red spider solution, No. 5, page 78. (5) Allow fowls the run of the orchard. (6) From observing that in years when we have a heavy July rainfall the damage from this pest is less than in dry seasons, I am inclined to think that if a vigorous hosing were possible a few times in summer, when the insects are on the foliage, good would be done. (7) It has been suggested that the mites may be killed in the buds by enclosing a few bushes ina large, airtight sheet during winter, placing inside a vessel containing 4 oz. each of water and sulphuric acid, and dropping in very carefully 13 oz. of cyanide of potassium. ‘The experiment might be tried, but the aspirant for knowledge and healthy Currant bushes will do well to keep on the outside of the sheet himself. (8) Cut the old wood out vigorously, and feed the bushes to encourage them to throw up plenty of new wood. Magpie Moth (Abrazas grossulariata).—The creamy, black dotted, looper caterpillar of this moth appears in summer from eggs laid on the leaves, and at once attacks the foliage. (1) Dust with sharp soot when 76 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. the shoots are dewy. (2) Dust with common black pepper. (3) Skim off the top inch or two of soil, char and replace. umply.—See “ Gooseberries.” Woolly Scale.—See “ Scale.” GOOSEBERRY ENEMIES. Sawfly (Vematus Ribesi).—This too familiar enemy only wants to be left alone to strip the bushes. I have seen them leafless by the middle of summer. Eggs are deposited on the leaves in spring, and the caterpillar soon hatches. Its green, black dotted, ravenous body is known to nearly every Gooseberry grower. (1) Dustings with white Hellebore powder are good, but this poisonous substance is sometimes used in a dangerously reckless way. Puta little in the palm of the hand, place the latter beneath the bush, and give a sharp jerk upwards. Syringe vigorously a day or two afterwards. (2) Mix } 1b. each of soda and salt in 2 gallons of hot water and syringe on, (3) Dust with black pepper. (4) Skim off and char the surface soil or dress it with weathered gas lime. (5) Dust with soot while the leaves are dewy. Magpie Moth.See “ Currants.” ited Spider.—See “ General Enemies.” NUT ENEMIES. Weevil (Balaninus Nucum).—This weevil, boring a hole in the shell when the nut is young, lays an egg from which a maggot hatches, and the latter feeds on the kernel, afterwards making its way to the soil. (1) If possible, avoid contiguity to Hazel clumps. The worst attack I have seen was near a copse full of Hazel. ‘The weevil flies from one to the other. (2) Sprinkle lime beneath the bushes. PEACH, PEAR, AND PLUM ENEMIES. Peach Biister (Zvoasceus deformans).—A fungus, which rarely gives trouble except when the plants have been subjected to sharp winds. An east wind blowing through an open ventilator will often cause a certain area of an otherwise healthy tree to become affected by the reddish swellings. (1) Avoid draughts, sharp wind, or cold air. Without this no treatment will avail. (2) If the disease appears gradually remove the worst affected leaves and encourage fresh growth. Spray with No. 7 or 8, page 79, Weevils.—See “ Raspberries.” Black Hly.—See “ Aphides.” Cracking of Pears.—See “ Scab.” Canker.—See preceding remarks. Slug-worm.—See “ Cherry.” Winter Moth.—See “ Apple.” Lackey Moth.—See “ Apple.” Plum Aphis (4piis Pruni)—A very prolific and troublesome pest. Eggs are laid in myriads in autumn, judging by the fact that I have found ring upon ring of them laid round the spurs and about the tips of the young shoots in November and onwards. (1) Late pruning clears off vast quantities if the shoots are burnt. (2) See also Aphides. ‘The quassia solution, No. 4, page 78, is good. ° RASPBERRY ENEMIES. 77 RASPBERRY ENEMIES. Clay Coloured Weevil (Otiorhynchus picipes).—There are several species of Otiorhynchus weevil, notably O. sulcatus, the black weevil of Vines, and O. tenebricosus, the red legged weevil of Peaches and many other plants; but the clay coloured species is the one with which I have had most to do. And he is quite enough. Ue is absolutely the most difficult of all garden pests to destroy, being remarkably tough, and having a truly feline tenacity of life. A harassed Raspberry grower once showed me a collection of weevils in a bottle of paraffin, averring that they had been there three weeks, and were subsisting on the liquid. I cannot vouch for the time, but I can for the petroleum and the weevils, whic) were alive and vigorous. I have seen acres of Raspberries half ruined by them. ‘The Raspberry weevil is a little more than 3 inch long, and has a vicious and resolute air. I have known it go from Raspberries to Peas and attack them. No application that will not kill the plant will destroy the weevil. There is but one plan out of many tried which I have seen really effectual, and that is for two persons to go amongst the rows at night, each carrying a piece of tarred board, which, when ready for action, he holds sloping upwards from the base of the canes. A lantern: is then flashed on to the Raspberries, which induces the weevi's to fall. Or the canes may be shaken. 4 Red Bud Caterpillar (lanp- F& ronia rubiella).—This small red, black- ‘ headed caterpillar is a troublesome pest, though not so bad as the weevil. Z So far as my personal investigations : j go, it feeds only in spring; so that, FIG. 61—RED SPIDER, MAGNIFIED. although damage may be done by it, (See pages 70 and 78.) the plant has a chance to make fresh . growth. Not so with the weevil. Unlike the latter, the red bud cater- pillar is a day feeder. (1) Except where the culture is extensive, hand- picking or crushing suffices. (2) Dustings of sharp soot are good. STRAWBERRY ENEMIES. Green Chafer.—It has happened, not infrequently, that Jarge grubs have been brought to me as cockchafers, and charged with attacking Straw- berry blossom, from which they are alleged to have eaten the organs of fructi- fication. I have never known the cockchafer do this; he is a troublesome pest to many crops, but usually does his evil work at the roots. The enemy has in each case proved to be the green chafer. Like the cockchater, he is a powerful fellow and difficult to get rid of. ‘he best chance comes when a new bed is made, as then the ground can be thoroughly forked over and cleansed. As a temporary measure, raking the grubs out and destroying them is the only real remedy. Mildew.—Large growers often have much cause to complain of loss from mildew. ‘The better the culture the less troublesome the disease— witness the comparatively little damage done in private gardens. I do not . 78 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. wish to infer that large growers are necessarily bad cultivators, but it is obvious that the farmer cannot give such high culture to many acres as the gardener can toa few rods. For remedies see Nos. 7 and 8, page 79. REMEDIES FOR INSECTS AND FUNGI. I now propose to give a list of recipes for insecticides and fungicides. I have tried each one before admitting it, and proved it to be efficacious, The various washes will be found to provide material for attacking all the major and many of the minor pests of the fruit garden. I may, however, point out that every practical grower has made one discovery, if no more— namely, that to give an insecticide or fungicide a chance of doing its work it must be brought into play in the first stage of the enemy’s attack. Several of the names given are coined ones. I am of opinion that they might be generally adopted with advantage. No. 1.—Soaparite. 1 lb. of soft soap. { Boil well for half ) Pour the mixture into a 1} pint of soft water. an hour. tub containing 7 or 8 lp ( Stir in above directly ( gallons of water, and 2 pint of paraffin. \. itis taken off the fire. churn with a syringe. Useful for keeping American biight, scale, and aphides in check. Apply in the evening. No. 2.—A Good Lime Wash for Fruit Trees. 8 lb. of lime. 1 1b. of soft soap. 4 gallons of water. A little size. Mix and paint on the stems, No. 3.—Paris Green. 1 oz. of Paris Green paste. Thoroughly mix and keep 2 oz. of soft soap. the mixture vigorously stirred 12 gallons of water. while in use. Good for checking the winter moth, codlin moth, and other caterpillars, No. 4.—Quassia. 1 lb. of quassia chips. 19 Ballons of water, \ Soak fer 8 hours and appiy. or 1 Jb. of quassia chips. 2 |b. of soft soap. Quassia extracts are good for all sucking insects, such as fly, but not for caterpillars. ‘ No. 5.- Sulpharite. 1 Jb. of lime. \ Boil in 3 i Well stir the lime and \ Boil well in 10 gallons of water. 3 Ib of sulphur. f of water. sulphur solution into the 8 gallons of soaparite (No. 1). soaparite and apply hot. Good for eradicating red spider after the leaves have fallen, also for American blight. REMEDIES FOR INSECTS AND FUNGI. 79 No. 6.—Tobacco Solution. 2 oz. of soft soap. Thoroughly Mix and 1 gallon of boiling water. } dissolve. apply at a 4 oz. of tobacco. Soak several hours, { temperature 1 gallon of boiling water. \ strain, and leave to cool. of 120°. An excellent mixture for checking thrips. No. 7.—Sulpotide. 1 oz. sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur). } Dissolve 8 gallons of water. } . No. 8.—Carbam. I oz. of carbonate of copper. When the copper is dissolved, 4 pint of liquid ammonia. mix with 10 gallons of water. Both this and No. 7 are good for scab and mildew. No. 8a.—Bordeaux Mixture. 23 lb. of sulphate of \ Dissolve in a little) Pour together when cool; stir copper (bluestone). hot water. the treacle or soft soap (1 23 |b. of freshly Dissolve in cold have used both with equally burned lime. water. good results—the object is to 1 lb. of agricultural treacle, make the mixture sticky) well or in, and make up to 25 gallons 1 1b. of soft soap. J) with water. Good for many fungoid pests. No. 9.—Soap and Sulphur. 2 oz. of soft soap. Thoroughly dissolve in 1 ) Boil together for 1 oz. of soda, gallon of hot water. balf an hour, 1 handful of sulphur. \ Stir in the above. en apply A good remedy for red spider. No. 10.—To Prevent Hares Barking Fruit Trees. A wineglass of spirit of tar. Clay. Lime. Cow manure. Add the spirit of tar to a pailful Mix together to of the paste, and daub on the form a paste. trunks, No. 11.—Sodash. Dissolve in a tub, pouring \ y4;. 5 lb. of caustic soda. the water carefully down | the sides, , and add sufficient tepid water to make up 50 gallons, stirring b 1b, of pearlash (com- \ Dissolve in another tub, | in 23 Ib. of soft soap. mercial potash). Good for cleansing tree trunks of moss and other foul growth. Keep it off the hands and clothing. 80 PIOVORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIL GROWING. Chapter X1l.—Blackberries. THE popularity of the frnit of the wild Blackberry is an earnest of the favour which the best cultivated varieties would enjoy if we were able to produce them with the ease and certainty of Raspberries and Currants. Unfortunately, this is not the case. For every instance of success we hear of half a dozen failures, and many people have abandoned Blackberry culture as a thing too full of disappointment for weak human flesh to tolerate. Granting that the garden Blackberry is « somewhat capricious fruit, there is no evidence to prove that it is beyond the powers of the average fruit grower. I was not in evidence when the first Briton began to culti- vate Raspberries, but I dare wager that he made a hash of it. He probably emerged extra early from his cave one fine morning, hitched up his skins, and, with a Prehistoric Patent Combination War Club and Spade, dug some suckers out of the woods. ‘These he planted in his kitchen garden, and left unshortened. A little frait was borne on the stronger canes, but afterwards the stools dwindled. ‘Then the Briton whirled his patent combination implement in a rage, and went and killed the garden-loving savage who had told him that Raspberries were worth growing. If he had decapitated the Raspberries instead of his neighbour he would have done better. His descendants found that out in time, but there are still people about who do not know it, and they are only prevented from attacking wise advisers by a grandmotherly law. Now, if we have not mastered all the points in Raspberry culture yet, it is not surprising that Blackberries are badly treated, for as a cultivated fruit the latter is in the babeling stage. Like our impatient ancestor, we want to plant canes and gather heavy crops of fruit before the plants have had a chance of establishing themselves. Having seen failure turned into success by change of culture, I refuse to believe that Blackberries are intractable ; and so delicious, so piquant, so refreshing is the fruit, that I Blackberry References (sce page $1). A, planting : a, one year old plants, indicating proper depth, wilh rools spread out evenly ; b, the same plants cut down in eurly spring, leaving only two buds above the grownd, B, training to wire trellis, plants in rows 5 feet apart and 3 feet asunder in the row: c, plant with two canes as uw result of cutting down to two buds in the previvus resting season; d, plant that has formed two vigorous canes, and a veaker one from the base; e, plunt that has formed one cane without laterals and one with—the side shoots have been pinched at about 9 inches from the main stem, The cross lines indicate the points of winter pruning. C, training to a stake: f, plunt in second winter after planting ; g, canes allowed. to grow loosely during the previous summer, and all suckers he;t off; h, stake ; i, points of shortening canes ; i, @ similar plant two yeurs old, with canes shortened url secured to the stuke with turred string. D, pruning Blackberry after hearing: k, old canes which have borne fruit during the last serson cut out—they are shown detached at the base ; 1, swecessional canes for bearing fruit in the coming season, shortened, as shown where detached, and secured to the trellis. E, pruning a Blackberry trained on a stake : 1, old canes cut out, as shown detached near dase ; n, successional canes shortened to firm wood and secured to stake separately ; 0, weakly growths which have sprung from the rootstock shortened to one bud from the ground — these usually produce strong cunes in the foliowing summer, and are more desirable for reserving to bear fruit in succession the following season than are those whicn spring from the buse of current bearing canes, BLACKBERRIES. WORDS. FEW IN HINTS A WX Qy\' AG AS RN \ \\ \Y \ TN LAE NAY ANS \ WW \ ~ D va Ay = ion] io i] (7a) | ro) 124 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. growing things badly is so overpowering that thousands succumb to it. What difficulty is there, to begin with, in propagating Strawberries, that people will persist in sticking to those old beds, with their tangled masses of runners and foliage? They know that the old beds mean a poor supply of fruit ; they know that young beds mean good fruit; and yet they go on year after year without making an effort at improvement. I should like to say to all such people, Lock up the tennis racket, or the bicycle, or the cricket bat, that is the cause of the trouble in the Strawberry bed, for just one day. Get a supply of small pots—2- or 3-inch will do beautifully—fill them right up to the top with good loamy soil, ram it very hard, and place the pots round the plant, Examine the latter for the runners. You will probably find plenty of them from the end of June onward, and here I may say that the earlier the runners are got the better, so long as they are good ones. A good runner is one which has a little tufty plantlet on it, with two or three small leaves—good, that is, if it is on a plant that is fruiting itself, but not good if the plant be barren, for the runner is likely to throw a sterile plant. If the grower has forcing in view he ought to get the first plantlet, for let it be known that there may be several on one runner. ‘ There are growers, and small blame to them, who shirk the trouble of repotting in the case of their forcing stock. Work is heavy and hands are scarce, so they just layer the runners into 6-inch pots straight away. Again, there are people who find squares of turf more convenient than pots, and the plants do well in them. Layering may be done from July onwards, but if it is left till late the runners take root on their own account. It saves a great deal of trouble to take these, and consequently there are plenty of people who do it, but the plants are invariably backward, and rarely fruit the following season. There is room for latitude as to planting, and this again encourages faulty practice. Asa matter of fact, Strawberries may be planted almost any month in the year, but all months are not equally good. August is a splendid month if the plants are strong and the weather showery, because they have a good chance of establishing themselves in September and October. But the plants may be put in almost any time between August and May. There is plenty of room for differences of opinion on the subject of manures. Many good growers like to dung their ground heavily, and rely on this one heavy dressing to carry the plants through their three years of life. As they get satisfactory results from the system they are apt to think that it is the only one. There is no “one and only” system with plants; Nature did not build them that way. Fine Strawberries can be grown with the dung-cart, and fine ones can be grown without it. It may be of assist- ance to those who cannot get abundant supplies of good manure if I givea mixture that Ihave found admirable. It consists of 3 1b. of sulphate of potash, 3 lb. of superphosphate, and 1 lb. of nitrate of soda per square rod. The time to apply it is when the ground is trenched, which should be in the previous autumn or winter, if possible, Half the quantity should be worked into the subsoil, and the remainder mixed with the top spit. The distance apart at which to plant opens up fresh scope for mischief. Why boggle over a point like this when the space between widely planted Strawberries can always be made use of the first season for prize Onions? One of our best Onion and Strawberry growers always does this, Of course, other people who found it good the first season would want to imitate it 125 PROPAGATING STRAWBERRIES. ‘SLOd NI ONIOUOI UOT SLINVId DNIUVdIYd AGNV SHINUAIMVULS ONILVOVdOUd—'I6 “SIT ‘SCUOM MAT NI SLNIB NIVId—'AOILOVAd TVYINOLOId C121 ebnd osyn aag) “Bursayon f ands 9 Suauunt fo szooe nd ay punosd pun sapun wtyl 09 ay) fo sjund saybnow £ “FD UWOLL PILLafsUuDL} ‘quasnd ay. am $2 7L Uayn abnjs 0 of of (4abun7) 40) od int ay? puoliag yynob D YM pasnoas hyp God ayy f4asodwos ‘a £ apbuas *q £ 126 PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. the second, when the Strawberries required more room, and therein they would come to grief. There is no better rule as to planting than to give Sir Joseph Paxton 3 by 2 feet, and the rest 2} by 2 feet. It is a great encouragement to young Strawberries to cut off all the runners the first year, and it is a great help to old ones to go over the beds in autumn, trim up the plants, remove all the old leaves, and loosen the soil round the crowns. If Strawberries intended for forcing are struck into 3-inch pots, as many are, they should be transferred to 6-inch when roots show at the drainage hole, A very good compost for them is sound, fibrous loam 3 parts, leaf mould 1 part, and bone meal at the rate of 1 pint to each bushel of soil. The plants must not be left exposed in the winter, or damp and frost will do sad work between them. The plants must either be put in a frame or else stacked on their sides and covered with bracken or litter. Forcing may begin in December if there is a warm house, but it is welt to bear in mind that there is danger of the plants going blind if a high temperature is maintained in dull weather. A night temperature of 50° to 55° is suitable, with a vise of 10° by day. Beware of letting the plants set and swell a large number of fruits in dull weather. The inevitable result is small and uneven berries. The grower who satisfies himself with half a dozen per plant will come out better than the one who allows the plant to do as it likes. (See next page.) ‘There are too many varieties of Strawberries. When some daring nursery- man arises who will cut his list down to thirteen or fourteen sorts we shall all bless him—and buy from the other man just the same! ‘That cultivator is the most sensible who fixes on two or three standard sorts which he knows to be suitable and good, and makes them his sheet anchor. Such Straw- berries are Sir Joseph Paxton, Royal Sovereign, and Vicomtesse Héricart de Thury. I by no means say that these are the best for all soils, but 1 claim that they average the most successes. The following are remarkable for fine flavour: British Queen, Dr. Hogg, Countess, and Latest of All. The following are good late varieties: Eleanor, Elton Pine, and Waterloo. The following are good ‘“ Perpetuals”: Gunnersbury Alpine and St. Joseph. The following are excellent new sorts: Fillbasket, Mentmore, Scarlet Queen, Thomas Laxton (see page 128), and Louis Gauthier. The following are good for forcing: La Grosse Sucrée, Royal Sovereign, and Vicomtesse Héricart de Thury. Excellent garden sorts not included in these lists are President, Newton Seedling, and Auguste Nicaise. Good early varicties are King of the Earlies and Royal Sovereign. . ——_>)= ea ee) 2 STRAWBERRIES IN POTS. ‘ONIOUOT WOT SLOd NI SHIMUTAMVULS—'26 “OIL ‘SaHuOM MTT NI SLNIH NIVId—‘GOILOVUd TVINOLOId “UIQLIUN PUY 19)]0WS f 0) pauury) Aynp spinal ‘asnoy 6 110 pun ‘paysnm s} FRUIT GROWING, PRACTICAL PICTORIAL 128 Cost and ay) *NOLXVT SVMOHL AUAAEMVALS— 86 ‘OTA OD P 1)a8SND 10}, f FRUIT TREES IN POTS. 129 Chapter XIX.—Fruit Trees in Pots. Ture is a branch of fruit growing that used to be known as orchard- house culture in days of old. The system is practised still—nay, more than ever, since glass is so much cheaper than it used to be, but somehow the old phrase is dying out. So full of fascinations is this branch of fruit culture that everybody would practise it if they had the means. As it is, the number of really high-class cultures is not very great. There are two well-known amateurs who indulge themselves in really magnificent collec- tions; they are Mr. Leopold de Rothschild and Mr. Martin Smith, whose talented gardeners are both experts in this splendid art. There is but one serious drawback to orchard-hovse culture—it calls for a roomy structure. In Mr. Martin Smith’s case the houses were specially puilt, I believe. They are wide, lofty, ard very airy. Moreover, summer quarters of the best have been provided in the form of a large wire enclosure, which secures plenty of air for the plants and at the same time keeps the birds at bay. We cannot all enjoy these luxuries—would that we could! We can, however, manage a few trees—some of us. Apples, Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Pears, and Plums may all be grown; it is just a question of convenience and taste. Speaking generally, Apples are not quite so suitable as the real spur-bearers ; but there are some sorts that will do exceedingly well, and amongst these, happily, is Cox’s Orange Pippin. However, many people prefer to grow their Apples ont of doors, and reserve their space under glass for choicer things. The grower must prepare himself at the outset for a little expense for pots. It isnot much use employing small ones, as the root action would be too strong for them. 10, 11,and 12-inch are suitable sizes. It is worth while, too, to take a little trouble to get a suitavie mixture of soil, That which is used for the final potting of Chrysanthemums would do admirably ; but if a special compost is prepared, it might consist with advantage of 3 parts of stiff turfy loam with plenty of fibre, 1 part each of leat- mould and decayed manure, and a quart of soot and bone meal in equal parts added to each bushel. Remember that a rich, soft, loose compost is to be avoided ; the rougher, lumpier, and firmer it is, the better. The pots should be carefully drained, and there is no better plan than to proceed on the good old lines of placing a large crock over the drainage hole, covering this with smaller pieces, overlapping each other evenly, and putting over these in turn either some coarse lumps of soil or moss, to prevent the finer particles of soil working among the crocks and clogging the drainage. With respect to the best time to begin, I may say that there is no real necessity to feel bound down to one particular month in autumn, winter, or early spring. Perhaps the work is likely to get done the best in November or December, because at that season there is often a little spare time, and the work is done with due care and deliberation. (Continued on page 136.) PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. PICTORIAL 130 ‘ONINONUd GNV ONILLOd LSUII—SLOd NI SHAUL LINAI—F6 “Ia “SaduOM MAA NI SLNIH NIWId—@OILOVUd '1VIHOLOId (j00f 1 = your § aznag) “spNq 29.1Y} 40 OM4 07 s9Uo Lano] 9Y} ‘spng Om} Lo 2u0 7 sauo saddn ay) “umoys sp gna s1n.1aj0] “7 f ways wo wapvay buruajsoys fo yur0d ‘y sprupsid poodwoo » wiof 07 paunud pun yod your -IL Ub 07u2 payjod fiynp ‘szooys youajn) YUM paysrusnf 1pm pun ways yybvus v yun ‘3043 yooag pjo uvak auo ‘D “spng yosvq ay} 07 aso79 {fo 7nd sy049q0] C fprmpsid D wLof 07 apna? ay? Buruagsoys fo qurod ‘% f ysng v wwof 02 umop Burpooy fo quod ‘y i(~v wapun saouasafas aas) pajyjod hjsadoud ‘sypsaqn] yyiM 20.09 Jordy pjo wah auo ‘g ‘wauuns Buamopjol ayy ur yrnos6 ayn fo Uuoipa1rp ay? aMarpUr saud) payop BY,L “TLS AY? 220QD saYyoUrL ST 7noQv ‘prunata paysruint -yam 9 Burmsof sof buruajsoys fo yurod ‘6 fsayour ZL Burag pos ay2 woul yybray y2 “ysng v Lof Burpoay fo yurod f f40d ay} fo sapis ay, 9D PUY YWauLapuN pros fo rUpD 02 SD Os pauazLoys Buo7 ay7—s700. ‘a f abvurwep “p : qos 9 fysodwmoo ay2 fo sqund Adwn) ay} fo sah) ‘q f abvurup “ov J jod yaur-TT wn ur ‘fiqvua.zxa ay} 07 poom pouadrs yam pun ‘49078 PUY WOLS JO WOIZIURE ay 02 UMODP Spnrq povl ‘wajs qbrudn apbuas 1 YM PNQ ayy WOss 2342 LWIT p10 Lah aUuo ‘PF ‘SHONTUTATEL 131 FRUIT TREES IN POTS. ‘ONIGVHS GNV DNINOUd WAWWAS LSUII—SLod NI SdguL LINMA—"S6 “SIT “SGHOM MUA NI SLNIH NIVId—‘dOILOVYd TVIXOLOId “wospas ay? ybrosy, synoqnaiayz 10' sayour ZB yo paddogs 2 07 spouaqDIQns pun syoiaqo} wayyO 77 yng ‘y2buI} ur sayour g Burpasoxa ssayun payourd aq 07 you ‘spnq ysoumaddn ay; worl paysnd aany yorym s7p1970} ‘uu fsayour OL gnogn 07 Burddoys fo syurod %) f sunds ay, wwtof 02 sayour % 07 poddojs xo ‘burppngsryp fig £0 pagqns Buraq syzmo16 Loygo qo “(sayoun.g, qutof 07) syo0ys apres ‘y fspnq wosso7q ULLof ain fiayz so “paddojs aq qow pynoys asoyy pun ‘buo) sayour UDI} AL0UL OU sjooys aynue fin suauroads Kpungs yng ‘hunssaoou fr yymoub fo sayour % huaaa ynogn yo payoad syoiayny ‘ff ajqnstapp jou sr gy suamroods Burno.d Ryayosapour fo asno ay, 2 ybnoy} ‘hanssaoow St payourd uayz ‘sayour 6 07 9 fo 7U9zxa aYy2 07 MOLB uf panonyy aq 07 ‘yosajn] buypna, % F(seyour ZT 02 OT ynogn) Burddoys fo qurod ‘y f ways oy) fo uovwn -U1qUOD LO Lapvd) ay) sv WYHiudn pouro.g png ysous -wddn wort youd ‘6 :aa.2 poprunwd v Burm.of Loft PLOS ay} WoLf SaYIUL ST 7ILOQY 0} LazUIM snore -aid ayy ur paunzsoys (gq ‘gl abnd) 0012 qooudpy “gq “Sanna? 9a.LYZ 09 pauazsoys Uays ‘Spng aang Uy, 210 bury ssajun payourd aQ 0} JOU aLD YOLyM “s}pLazD) payjv9 PUD UOsHas a4} ur ayn, Burysnd saurzouos ‘syymos6 gcoys YF f ways ayy fo spnq mba wy 0} snbnp fo pua ay) yw paddojs aq 02 aun yorym ‘ways ay2 mous (sayoun.g tof 09) syooys aprs ‘a £ fra pany) aya yo payourd aq 07 asayg ‘y2M026 Burpoo ayy burddojs fo aawanbesuoo wre paysnd sany yom ‘syo1agn) apys ‘p f payourd aq 03 gow pun ‘burddojs oy} worl burqynsas ‘uazs ay} fo wornnirqucs ur yooys Burpna ‘o /Bu0) sayour BL 02 OL wouf waym sapne? ay? Buryourd fo yurod "g £ aap] ay) payyoo pun ways fo worzwnUrzzuod “prq qsowdo; worl yno.6 ‘ps prunshd p wLof 07 papuar “UL PUD [0S BYR WOLf SIYOUL ST JnOgQD 0} AazUIM snowad ay} ur pauazioys (¥ ‘ost abvd) aay vag ‘¥ “SHONTUTALT i h i My \ { i my q HE] yl I J OI il) all SS 132 PICTORIAL PRACTIOAL FRUIT GROWING. ‘AUUAHO CIO UVAA FTUHL JO ONINAYd GNV HOVAd dO ONINNUd UAWWAS LSali—6 ‘Old "SGUOM MU NI SLNIH NIVId—AOILOVUd TVINOLOId th itly Wh roll nh I fh UL S> PYRAMIDAL PEAR TREES IN POTS. 133 PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. FIG. 97.-FRUIT TREES IN POTS.—A FRUITFUL PYRAMIDAL PEAR TREE. A, three year old tree from bud or graft (pages 130 and 131, A): a, leading growth or continuation of stem; b, point of pinching leader at 10 to 13 inches of growth ; c, strongest and uppermost lateral trained erectly as a leader; d, side laterals which have not been pinched because they have not mude more than three leaves; e, shoots produced from preceding year's stem, and not pinched because they have not made more than eight leaves ; f, continuation growth of side branches nut pinched because they have not made over eight leaves ; g, side growths from branches not pinched because they have not made more than thrce leaves ; h, spurs (short shoots with leaves disposed around a prominent central bud); i, top-dressing of rich compost ; j, roots proceeding from holes in the pot into the border. 134 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. PICTORIAL PRACTICE.—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. FIG. 98.—FRUIT TREES IN POTS.—APRICOT TREE IN BEARING. A, three year old pyramidal tree from bud (pages 130 and 131, B): a, leading growth or continuation of stm ; b, point of stopping ; ¢, lateral taken forward as a continuation of the stem, and not stopped because not exceeding 10 inches in length; d, sublaterad not pinched because it is not more than 2 inches long; e, forked side branches, the leaders not pinched because they are not over 10 inches long—the forking is necessary Jor the furnishiny of the tree with branches ; f, refractory shoot of side branch pinched, also lateral from it; g, spurs; h, top-dressing of rich compost ; i, roots from the pot in the border, PYRAMIDAL PEACHES IN POts. 135 PICTORIAL PRACTICE,—PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. FIG. 99—FRUIT TREES IN POTS.—CLOSE PYRAMIDAL PEACH TREE IN BEARING. A, tree three years old from the bud (pages 130 and 132, C): a, leading shoot or continuation of stem: b, point of stopping leading shoot (about 6 inches); c, leading lateral taken upright as a continuation of the stem, and not stopped because not exceeding 6 inches in length ; d, laterals not pinched because they are not over 6 inches in length ; e, side shoots not pruned because they are not over 6 inches long; f, top-dressing of rich compost ; g, roots from the pot running into the border. 136 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. It is wise to begin with young trees, because if older ones are not very carefully selected it will be found that their root system is too strong. It would be quite possible to get nice bushes or pyramids of, say, three years old from some nurseries which had a fibrous and compact root system, as a result of having been lifted once or twice ; but ordinary nursery stock would be hardly likely to do. If a yearling tree is bought, it should be cut down very much on the lines advocated in an early chapter on shaping and training various forms of trees. So much was said there on this interesting subject that it would be waste of space to go over the whole ground again. With respect to pruning, somewhat the same might be said. A Pear does not so completely change its nature when it is grown in a pot that entirely new ideas of pruning have to be learned. Generally speaking, the spur system is the best, and spur pruning has been very carefully and fuliy gone into already. Remember that the essence of it is summer pinching—the stopping of the side shoots to half a dozen leaves, more or less according to their position. As to this, a reference may be made to the figures which appear on pages 130, 131, 132, 133, 134, and 135; they will serve to make the routine quite clear. Trees that have become established in pots must be looked after care- fully, or they will soon grow out of shape. They must also be well supported. Every year they should be taken in hand at a convenient period of the resting season, 2 inches of the top soil removed, and a rich mixture substituted. While in fruit, liquid manure should be given twice a week. Chapter XX.—Miscellaneous. THERE are certain matters connected with fruit growing which, being a little outside general culture, are apt to be put altogether in the back- ground. Yet they are quite as important as pruning and propagation. I will refer to a few of these, Storage.—It has been my lot to deal with the storage of fruit in many circumstances, from the simple loft over a potting shed, with plain, wide, wooden shelves, to the insulated town “cold store,” in which machinery reduces the temperature to near the freezing point. In all circumstances a few simple points stand out above all others. (1) Fruit must not be subjected to hard frost; a degree or two may not hurt it, but on the other hand will certainly not improve it. A temperature of 35° to 40° is the best. (2) Fruit that is expected to keep must be absolutely sound when stored. (3) It should be gathered for storage at a point just in advance of what is known as “dead ripe.” (4) It must be spread to “sweat” before being finally stored away. (5) The temperature must be even, and here double walls for the fruit room come in. (6) The layers should be thin, in order to facilitate examination for the purpose of removing any decaying fruit. (7) There must not be excessive damp. (8) There must be no objects near which are of a strong-smelling nature, or the fruit will become musty, and even offensive. This may sound a very formidable list of conditions, but there is really nothing very terrible about it, and it is nearly as easy to secure them as the reverse. Where a special fruit store is not in the question on account of the small quantity of fruit to be stored, the mistake ROOMS FOR STORING FRUIT. _ oo a \' ZZ digitalis \\ ae 7 | Sis ELIE LTT Lie a LL clade lididdLL ay L ete ZEEE TITY ULL Wil yy ee 77 a 272 PSs Po SLARSUAS EPS TEP SBA st seve ROB D 3 Sse gee i Res SsgRgare geese iS o SEg5 Fs Fos 85 SSCS eS“ SPST ET EEL ls BSS 2 S858 gSPbok o og SS ES re Boo. 8S Ramses sees 3 FEo 33 oS =ZaSes S82 La sss Ss SoE8 82s 53 SR 8: So es on BS, eee? Sy08> ge'ses BSS sa 38 Se 8 bee Bosse Sbsetsrane | (828 SASS oy Seo gyt ee SSSQossSSSSIvSESTZi .2sss a S'serSa-~.S beta Cr s. oie iva SSPs8a she ks ; ane Z| AGES Severs YUM) Us S838 88883 yyy -=3 annZ| ove | UTA S88 iH ES ss | th ese Wt BES mh a58 5 | S22 | ene Sey i S38 ay i ~~ PICTORIAL SS. SS —PLAIN HINTS IN FEW WORDS. SS SS LH a wood; 2%, pathway with shelves cavity in roof; h, ventilator ; i, 83-inch hot-water pipes in the | sides. (Scale, FIG. 100.-SECTIONS OF FRUIT ROOMS. e, valves for the aérating cavity ; f, roof, double ceiled ; g, air gainst north wall of kitchen garden: a, north wall ; h air cavity insulating the fruit room srom the vari- armtih and damp of the garden wall; c, 9-inch wall built in cement ; d, 14-inch wall, hollow above the ground level ; 3 inch = 1 Soot.) a S 3 Bits g§c'8 a ~ grating level with the pathway; j, k, shelves. (Seale, t inch = 1 foot.) chamber, with an iron path 3 138 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. is often made of putting it in a general store, which may contain such assertive articles as Onions, or may abut on a manure yard. The fruit often becomes tainted thus. A general store is rarely a good one, and it is usually better to head the fruit up in barrels. As proving, however, the very simple conditions under which sound fruit will keep, I may say that I have had Apples of many varieties on the wooden floor of a clean attic at the top of a dwelling house facing north-east from September to May, with nothing over them but simple sheets of newspaper in very bad weather. Anyone who is building a small fruit store may have the soil excavated'to a depth of 2 feet, unless the land is very heavy and cold. In any case, he should provide double walls of matchboarding, and should thatch the roof to a dépth of 1 foot. This will ensure an even temperature at a pleasant halfway stage between dryness and dampness. Labels.—Here we have another of the “odd matters” connected with fruit which so often lead to disaster. It would be interesting, if it were not so disquieting, for each reader to recall the number of instances which he has seen of wired attachments eating into the wood, causing great, gouty swellings, and often leading to the collapse of branches. It seems to be inevitable with many fruit growers that when they twist a piece of wire round a shoot to hold a label they should assume that as the branch thickens the wire will obligingly become elastic. Anyway, they make a loop that fits close even when the branch is quite small. There is no necessity for circling the branch at all, for the label may be attached by means of a piece of soft zinc wire bent into a hook at one end. Oracoil of zinc may be used. Zinc labels of various shapes and sizes may be bought from seeds- men, with a small bottle of metallic ink, and these are tolerably lasting ; but, as pointed out, a bad system of attachment is disastrous, Whatever the labelling system may be,I strongly advocate a plan of the fruit plot being made and put away for reference if required. The shape of the ground can be roughly sketched, and the position of each tree marked, with its name, so that if the label is lost there is something to fall back upon (see next page). Protecting Fruit Blossom.—In the case of large trees of Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries growing in the open, the blossom is usually left, perforce, to look after itself. Often nothing happens, sometimes a late frost does great damage. As I have pointed out in earlier chapters, the con- tingency of loss from this cause ought to be before the grower at the time he is considering the making of his plantation. There is often a choice of sites. One of these, situated in a bottom, is tempting, perhaps, because of its rich soil; but it must be remembered that frosts will be far more severe there than on higher ground: A hilltop is not the best, because the soil is often poor, and there is great exposure to wind; a slope is better. By the exercise of a little. foresight in the direction indicated, a natural protection against frost may be secured, and if it will not secure the grower complete protection from loss, it will greatly minimise his risks. In the case of choice wall fruit, such as Peaches and Nectarines, Apricots, and even Pears, protection is needed, and there are several ways of securing it. The coping or projecting ridge fitted at the top of the wall is a great advantage. Scrim and tiffany, both of which may be bought from the seedsman at a very cheap rate, are very light porous cloths which may be attached to the upper part of the wall, or supported on rods, and dropped down in front of the tree when in bloom, and frost threatens (see page 140). 139 FRUIT TREES. LABELS FOR ‘ajqparsap ysou Sh wongmugsn77y YZUL UMOYS PUdUL -yonyo Burbuny ayy, “Buoy soyour $L ynogo bursq ways oy7 “pawn -al SO sazis 406.10} uno youya “aquT, papl sfiuwoy “7 “snp yuns S? 1290] QWOP OyT “aaa 94 sp Buoy sp sjsp) pun ‘aars -uadaxa 10U 82 1290} ALL “yooy padnys § pasvuvaynh fig payoojyp ‘umoys so ‘suajqa] pasedt ynm you fo apow ‘yaqvy aL] *YOUDLQ aY? PIwens pun ‘aun uotr fig PaYID}ID SDM 79Q0) ay2 = payuasardan E 5 z BQ a | Way you “pepo aru PMA] UNM 249 DV fo younsg D 03 pa ~ysDHD Uaym 7qQ0 ~2onadas fiona ‘apn your { ‘Buo) sayour #B ‘poqn] owe ‘9 «UL 70 ,, fiqqussod youwno fiay2 “unoys sp ‘YyouUnLg 2 pun ‘umoys sv ‘payonyyn finspa buyaq syojqny 3y} ‘ourz punos Burro 1of “Spua tayjo oy2 90 ‘os Aytwau so Gurod fo no 4nd 897 “Got abvd “7 OA ‘omng swamo1y pn1T Do ssadny drys ay, “uo buimum sof pua suo yo apn ay we “AWA ‘MOM wyor “LW fig ax0UW 02 paonp Sayous $1 07 your T pun buo] sayour 1 10 9 “Jaqn] ourz ,,wadw,,, “FT -ouguy Buyzaq wolf pazyno os ,,7aqn] 7200 Ayafos ,, saybuim ‘g “SHONTUTATL ‘SHTUL LINUT AOL STTAVI—OT ‘HIT “‘SCUOM MAT NI SENIH NIVId—AOILOVad TVIHNOLOIL A au a mx =~. Q 4 = yx: fu ARS, PIOTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. 110 *M0}]0Y UMNOYS Sz asnd s1yy UL YON ayy, “spauno ay umop buryjaz 10 dn burynd sof si psoo ayjz—ybno.yy ssod 02 pioa sof ajod 07 adujs yum paxifo Burs ‘uw fuo Buny 02 spauno ay2 vol pLomiof sayour 6 Burjoato.d ‘fad poom -puny y Suapunsn qaaf 9 sajod ‘Burdoo qom wapun ,.padunl,, pun pwnosb o7ur 9a) ‘asnnbs sayourn g% ‘ajod ‘y ispawno pu sajod fo wajshis hunurp.o ‘Q “paLano] WaYM UO 4SaL 02 spauno sof Bad ‘C f Bursys fo sunau fig bursamo) pup burs. sof hayynd ‘2 f @1qnanisas hvar sr Qouaqnu waduay np ‘wurwos) spauno ‘y fq4undn yal g qnoqgn sajod ‘punog ayy fo abpa sayno ayy 02 paxyfo pun ‘umoys sp punoub ur yas ‘auonbs sayour % ‘aod ‘6 £ yayonLg nour Sf fyynm yaaf-Zl » sof sayour PL pun ‘yaaf-OL 0 of apm sayour TL UWNYY 88a] 40% ‘pLvog YouUr-F ‘a: poyyou spauno pun ‘sajod ‘Burdoo poom ‘g “spnref a0r0yo Lof suorqoaj0.ud 770 fo a1Qnlrsap ySoU oY} SL SLY T “Layyom ayy 07 Buyps000p pasamo) 10 pasrns pun quoLf ay) woLf papuadsns ‘ysau your-& ‘Burgaw joom *p f auy punowbh oY? 9D auozs ay) 072 40) PUD save ayy wyrum ysnf Burdoo 07 paxifo aqng uour your-§& ‘9 fyayonsg UoLr “Q £3]qQn -aowm sissm6h ayjy—(qyom yaaf-Zl v 40f sayour 9 72af Z PUD 70af-0L D LOf Jaf Z) uowoaloud poznjb ‘ :apom bury -yau pun Burdoo buryaford paemb ‘7 “‘SHONTULALL ‘SHIUL LINUI TIVA JO WOSSOTd AHL INILOALOUd—‘20r “SIL “‘SqHOM M@T NI SLNIH NIVId—‘GOILOVad IVIMOLOIL a, —— = — N \NI \/! GATHERING FRUIT. 141 Gathering.—In along series of chapters, attention has been given to the salient points of fruit cultivation, and it is hoped without any important omission. Yet the subject would be incomplete if no reference were made to gathering and storing fruit. It would be of very little avail to grow good FIG. 103—A USEFUL FRUIT GATHERER, A, circular loop of stout wire: a, diameter of loop, 4 to 5 inches; b, straight ends ubout 3 inches long. 2B, conical bag of netting or calico; ¢, handle; d, beg. fruit if it were spoiled after it left the tree. Now fruit is very easily spoiled, and the choicer it is the greater the danger of losing it. There ought not to be any great difficulty in learning to gather fruit properly, because the fruit tells its ownstory. If fruit is left on the tree until it is quite ripe it usually 142 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. falls, because the point of attachment of the stalk changes its character, Therefore, this condition of the stalk is a good guide to the grower. If, on raising the fruit in such a way as to bring a firm yet gentle pressure to bear on the point of attachment, the end of the stalk parts from the spur, the fruit is ready to gather. If the slightest tug or twist is required it is not ready. This rule may be acted upon with all fruit until October. At that period doubts may arise. ‘here will be late varieties of Pears, for example, that are quite hard and obviously unripe. Yet if left on the trees they would probably be injured by frost, and certainly they would not ripen there. Even in these cases it will usually be found that the fruit leaves the tree with only a gentle pressure on the end of the stalk. The rest is a question of storage. The Pears may shrivel or they may mature, according to their treat- ment, for which see pages 136-7-8. Large quantities of fruit fail to keep well on account of rough handling between tree and store. A bruise means decay, and one bad fruit may contaminate many good ones. Gathering is usually done with the hands direct, and there is no real excuse for bruis- ing; itis only a question of putting the fruit into the basket instead of throwing itin. Various contrivances are brought into play to facilitate gathering fruit, particularly in the case of rather high trees. Unfortunately these sometimes take the shape of a hooked stick or something equally crude, which is only capable of dragging the fruit off. Gathering ought to mean rather more than this. A pouch formed of a piece of netting mounted on a rod (page 141) answers very well, but where access to the fruit can be got the hands should be employed. A Useful Table.—lIt will be of advantage to give a simple rule by means of which the number of trees to plant a particular area of ground can be easily found. There are 43,560 square feet in an acre, and therefore it is only necessary to divide this figure by the distance apart which the plants are to stand in order to arrive at the number required. If, for instance, the grower were going to plant bush Apples 8 by 8 feet, he would simply multiply 8 by 8, giving 64, and divide 43,560 by this product, giving 680, which is approximately the number of trees he would want. I append a table of distance worked out to suit most fruits :— F Feet. Plants. Suiting 2 sia vpn pe berri eH 7960 rawberries. - “ 4 See Currants and Gooseberries. 4 x 1 10,890 Raspberries. : ne \ Bush Apples and Pears. noe ce te 303 | Half-standard Apples, 15 x 15 198 Pears, and Plums. 24 x 2t 15 30 x 320... oe 4g | Standard Apples, Pears, 36 «x 26 33 and Plums. (for methods of planting in diamonds and squares see pages 143 and 144.) Cost of Trees.—In planting fruit on a somewhat extensive scale the cost of the trees is a considerable item. Growers keep it down in various ways, perhaps the commonest being to attend auction sales and “ pick up bargains.” That these are often very bad ones is well known to all who (Continued on page 146.) 143 ARRANGING FRUIT TREES IN DIAMONDS. “Saag ay) of” s1L0190IS paduTaed ay awIIpUL ‘LagauNIp UL gaaf O ‘sazo.L09 InpUNjel PML UL saa.tz fo ¥ ayy isp 1p U1 pabunito sspib Uo saat, panpuvjs ‘Y ‘SANOMVIC NI SHTUL LIAUA JO LNIWTONVAUV— ‘DOT “NIT ‘SQUOM MAT NI SLNIH NIWId—a@0Ilovad TYIMOLOId Yaowok srfor oy en EP? eas ta r a oS EAR Bg hy See a 5 eR: s AOL a oTK. oe " iN a pe AR Be PP HE LY? I ees oe Po See ee ae RS PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. 144 “yong *p { psnpunjs ‘9 : saur) apqnop Ww. way, waanzaQg $90.19 YSNG 10 sarjaruna fuvmp YIUN say punpunys 40 sasvnbs aqnop ‘9 sysng ‘gq f pavpunjs ‘D ; saaug ysng pun pavpunjs fo buiyousayo ‘gq ‘SHUVNOS NI SATUL LIN JO LINANTONVAAV—'SOT “DIT ‘SGUOM MAI NI SENIH NIVId—'AOILOVUd TVIAOLOIL “SHONDUAATL “saan unig pup ‘vag ‘uosmng ‘hiwayp ‘addy sof ssp1b uo spunyouo ur pasyonid sp ‘sasonbs uy pazunjd saaug pLopunjs Bs te ea ee oa : AE LEER RE iad eeeal ae a eneest eee ty men ke FRUIT TREES ON ARCHES. 145 FIG. 106.—ARCHES OF FRUIT IN A SEASIDE GARDEN, 146 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. have the opportunity of getting into the fruit districts, and keep their eyes open while there. In the long run I am of opinion that it pays best to go to a fruit nurseryman who has a reputation, and wants to keep it. The first cost of the trees will be greater than if they were bought at the auction, but they will very likely come into profitable bearing sooner, and make better trees, so proving cheaper in the end. ‘The prices of trees vary with their age and strength. I have got very good trees for 1s. each, and I have paid as much as 3s. 6d. fora picked standard Apple four years old. The grower must never grumble if he gets good standards at £5 per 100, bushes at £4 per 100, and pyramids at £6 per 100. More will be asked for picked trees, As regards small fruits, 12s. per 100 is a fair price for Gooseberries, 10s. per 100 for Currants, 3s. per 100 for Raspberries, and 1s, per 100 for Straw- berries. Not only will selected specimens be dearer, but special varieties will cost more. Novelties are always clear, because scarce. Cost of Cultivation.—Labour is scarce and becoming dearer in rural districts, so that there promises to come a time, and that speedily, when the standard items for cost of cultivation will have to be revised. Even as it is there are great variations. As one who has had to employ labour in different parts, I find that in some scarcity of labour and stiffness of soil combine to raise the cost of cultivation to almost double what it is in others where there is more labour and a lighter soil. The following must be taken as approximate: Preparing by simple digging, 4d. to 6d. per rod; preparing by bastard trenching, ls. to Is. 6d. per rod; digging between established trees, 30s. per acre; hoeing, 20s. per acre. Cost of Pruning.—In large cultures pruning, or “cutting,” as it is more commonly termed, is generally done by permanent hands, but there are many instances in which the services of a professional “ cutter’? are called in. Sometimes he is properly qualified, sometimes he is an impostor ; but whatever his abilities he generally expects to be paid. The approxi- mate rates are Apples, 20s. per acre; Currants, 20s. per acre; Goose- berries, 30s. per acre; Raspberries, 12s. per acre. Cherries and Plums are not much pruned, as a rule, in market cultures. Returns of Fruit.—There is nothing much more misleading than the figures often quoted as returns on given areas of fruit land. My readers have seen plenty of them. You are supposed to plant so many trees per acre, get so much fruit from each, sell it at such arate, and realise a profit varying from £200 to £2,000 per acre. Itis all nonsense, of course. Owing to circumstances over which the grower has no control, such as weather, the returns from fruit are so uncertain that all calculations have a “hypothetical basis. No heed must be paid to special results; they nearly always lead to disappointment. For these reasons I prefer not to give figures. Whether fruit as a commercial venture shows a profit or a loss depends largely upon the skill, judgment, and business aptitude of the grower, I could tickle the palates of my readers with some very tempting figures, and they would, perhaps, like me all the better for raising their hopes; but if a number of people quite unfit for fruit growing, and lacking the necessary capital, were thereby led into losing hard-earned savings, as has been the case in the past only too often, I should have nothing to feel proud about. I prefer to give practical information, and leave the rest to the judgment and aptitude of the individual. 147 OBJEOTS. FRUIT TREES AS ORNAMENTAL “ CFL afnd aas) Sse ——STTIHM ‘ONIYdS NI NIGUV) TNdILNVaAd V JAVH TIM DNIMOUD INUIT IVOLLOVad TVIMOLOId,, NI SNOILONULSNI AHL MOVIOI— = = 285 8 “LOT “DTd 148 PICTORIAL PRACTICAL FRUIT GROWING. This splendic trophy of British- grown fruit was exhibited by Mr. G. Bunyard at the great fruit show of the Royal Horticul- tural Society at the Crystal Palace, and shows what is possible with skill and_ thor- oughness, Good fruit can only be had year after “i 3 year by up-to- se cam Bo, i date cultivation. j j Given this, we should hear less of wasted orchards and barren trees. FIG. 108—YOU WILL HAVE SPLENDID PRIZE DISHES IN AUTUMN! JIN 1D) BX. —+ A American blight, 66 Aphides 66 (illustrated), 67; Plum, 76 APPLES, summer pruning (illustrated), 15; pruning, 16; stocks for, 38; varieties for regrafting, 46; soil and manure for, 48,49 ; grown with and without manure (illustrated), 49; selections of, 50; cooking varieties, 51; dessert varie- ties, 52; Lord Derby (illustrated), 51; Stone’s (iilustrated), 51; Lady Hen- niker (illustrated), 52; Cox’s Orange Pippin (illustrated), 52; Worcester Pearmain (illustrated), 53; Charles | Ross (illustrated), 55; for cordons, 53; for profit, 53 ; for bushes, 54; for standards, 54; for heavy soil, 54; canker on (illustrated), 65; scab (illustrated), 69 ; enemies, 72 ; Blossom Weevil, the, 72; Sawfly, the, 72; Winter Moth, the, 72; Small Ermine Moth, the, 74; Lackey Moth, the (illustrated), 73, 74 Apricots, pruning, 16; summer pruning (illustrated), 17; stocks for, 37; selec- tion of varieties, 59; the best, 60; enemies, 74; branch decay, 74; the Moth, 74 Arches for Apples and Pears (illus- trated), 10 Artificial manure, 3, 47, 49 B BLACKBERRIES, 80; planting, training, and pruning (illustrated), 81; varie- ties, 84 Black Currant Gall-mite, 75 Blossom, protecting (illustrated), 138, 140 Bordeaux mixture, 79 Budding, the process of, 40 Bug, Mealy, 70 Branch decay, 74 Bush fruits, selections of varieties, (4 Bush trees, 8; how to form (illus- trated), 7 Cc Canker (il/ustrated), 65, 67 Carbam, 79 Cobnuts, 118 (see also Nuts) Codlin Moth, the, 72 Cordon trees (illustrated), 2, 8; hori- zontal and oblique (ii/ustrated), 10 CHERRIES, pruning, 18 (illustrated), 193 stocks for, 38; soil for, 48; the best varieties, 60 ; for dessert, 60 ; enemies, 74; Slugworm, 74; Mottled Umber Moth, 74; Black Fly, 75; Winter Moth, 75 CURRANTS, pruning Black, 28 (illus- trated), 29; pruning Red and White, 28; (illustrated), 30; standard (illus trated), 30; soil for, 48; Black varieties, 64; Red, 64; White, 64; enemies, 75 ; Gall-mite, 75; Magpie Moth (illus- trated), 75 D Damsons, good varieties, 63 E Enemies of fruit, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77 150 Espaliers, training (illustrated), 10; forming, 12 F Fan-shaped trees, forming (illustrated), ll, 12 Figs, 84; summer pruning (illustrated), 83, 84; fruiting wood (illustrated), 85; varieties, 86 Filberts, 118 (see also Nuts) Fruit garden, an amateur’s (illustrated), 2 Fruit, rooms for (illustrated), 187; pro- tecting blossom (éddustrated), 138, 140 ; gathering (illustrated), 141 Fruit trees, stocks for (illustrated), 37, 38; soils and manures, 46; artificials for, 3, 47, 49; site for, 47; in pots (illustrated), 129, 130, 131, 132, 133, 184, 135, 136 ; labels for (ildustrated), 138, 189; planting table, 142; plant- ing in diamonds, 143; in squares, 144; cost of culture, 146 G Gathering fruit (id/ustrated), 141 GoOOsEBERRIES, pruning, 28; spur system (illustrated), 31; soil for, 48; the best varieties, 64; enemies, 76; Sawfly, 76; Magpie Moth, 76; Red Spider, 76 Grafting, Whip (illustrated), 39, 42; making a fit (2llustrated), 41; graft- ing large trees (illustrated), 42; crown, 42; cleft, 42; preparing old trees for (illustrated), 43; crown and cleft (il/ustrated), 44; a good ‘‘pug” for, 42; wax, how to make, 42; covering, to exclude air (édlustrated), 45; cleft grafting knife (illustrated), 47 GraPzs (sce also Vines), 88; in green- houses, 96 ; fertilisation, 99 ; selecting and thinning bunches, 99; scalding, 100; varieties, 102; keeping, 104; shanking, 104, (iddustrated), 105; in ground or frame Vineries, 104, (i//us- trated), 108 ; out of doors, 109 ; record PICTORIAL PRAOTICAL FRUIT GROWING. bunches, 110; Alicante (illustrated), 99; Muscat of Alexandria (illus- trated), 101; Alnwick Seedling (illustrated), 103; first prize (lus- trated), 110 Ground Vineries, 104, (id/ustrated), 106, 107, 108, 109 : Gum, 70 H Hares, to prevent barking trees, 79 Hazel Nuts, 118 (see also Nuts) Horizontal cordons (illustrated), 10 I Insects and fungi, remedies for, 78, 79 K Knife for cleft grafting (illustrated), 47 L Labels for fruit (i/lustrated), 138, 139 Lackey Moth (illustrated), 73, 74 Lichen and Moss, 70 Timewash, 78 M Magpie Moth (illustrated), 75, 76 Medlars, 111 : MEtons, raising (illustrated), 113; stop- ping (illustrated), 114; fertilising (i/- lustrated), 115; a house of (illustrated), 116; Syon House (illustrated), 117; regulating the fruits, 118; canker in, 118; compost for, 118; succession of, 118; varieties, 118 Mildew on Strawberries, 77 Morus nigra, 111 Mottled Umber Moth, 74 Mulberries, 111 N NECTARINES, pruning, 20, (illustrated), 23; disbudding (clustrated), 25; stocks for, 38; the best varieties, 61; Humboldt (illustrated), 59 INDEX. 151 Novzs, Weevil, 76; description of, 118; bearing parts of Cobs and Filberts (illustrated), 119 ; bearing branch after pruning (illustrated), 120; a pruned tree (illustrated), 121; pruning, 122; varieties, 122 ; soil for, 122 O Orchards, standard trees for, 12 ; how to form standards for (illustrated), 13 P Paris Green, 78 Pracues, pruning, 20, (illustrated), 23 ; disbudding (illustrated), 25; stocks for, 88; the best varieties, 61; Bar- rington (illustrated), 59; Noblesse (id- lustrated), 60; Dymond (illustrated), 60; Walburton Admirable (i//ustrated), 61; Condor (édlustrated), 61; Sea Eagle (illustrated), 62; enemies, 76 ; blister, 76 Peags, as cordons (illustrated), 10; prun- ing, 18; summer pruning (i//ustrated), 22 ; stocks for,38 ; soil for,48 ; selections of varieties, fifty good, 56 ; fine flavour- ed, 57 ; for cordons, 57 ; the best, 58 ; for showing, 58; for standards, 58; for market, 58; Doyenné Boussoch (i//us- trated), 56; Durondeau (illustrated), 56; Beurré Hardy (illustrated), 57; Marie Louise (illustrated), 57; Williams’s Bon Chrétien (illustrated), 58 ; Winter Nelis, 58; enemies, 76 Planting, table, 142 ; in diamonds (éd/us- trated), 143; in squares (illustrated), 144 PLums, pruning, 20, (illustrated), 26; stocks for, 38; soil for, 48; the best varieties, 62 ; for cooking, 62; dessert, 63 ; Transparent Gage (illustrated), 62; Magnum Bonum (illustrated), 63; Reine Claude de Bavay (illustrated), 63; enemies, 76; Aphis, 76 Pruning, the ABC of, 14; Apples (illustrated), 15, 16; Apricots, 16, (illustrated), 17; Cherries, 18, (illus- trated), 19; Pears, 18; (illustrated), 22; where to make cuts (illustrated), 21; Peaches and Nectarines, 20, (illustrated), 23; Plums, 20, (édlus- trated), 26; tools for, 24, (illustrated), 27; Black Currants, 28, (illustrated), 29; Red and White Currants, 28, (illustrated), 30; Gooseberries, 28, (illustrated), 31; Raspberries, 32, (illustrated), 33; points about root, 34; root (illustrated), 35; Blackberries (illustrated), 81, 82; Figs (idlustrated), 83, 85, 86; Vines, 92, 94, 108, iddus- trated), 93, 95; Nuts (illustrated), 119, 120, 121, 122 : Pyramid trees, 8; how to form (idlus- trated), 9 Q Quassia water, 78 R RasPBERBIES, pruning, 32, (illustrated), 88; soil for, 48; the best varieties, 64; enemies, 77 ; Clay-coloured Weevil, 17; Red-bud Caterpillar, 77 Raspberry -Strawberry, the, 84 Red-bud Caterpillar, 77 Red Spider, 70, (illustrated), 77 Root pruning, points about, 34, (illus- trated), 35 Rubus palmatus, 84 8 Sawfly, the, 72; Gooseberry, 76 Saws, pruning (illustrated), 27 Scab, Apple and Pear (i/lustrated), 69, 70 Scale, 72 Sécateurs, for pruning, 24 Slugworm, the, 74 Small Ermine Moth, the, 74 Sodash, 79 Soap and sulphur, 79 Soaparite, 78 Space, the art of utilising, 1; economis- ing (illustrated), 2 Spanish Nuts, 118 (see also Nuts) 152 Standard trees, 12; how to form (éd/us- trated), 13 Storing fruit (iJ/ustrated), 186, 137 STRAWBERRIES, soil for, 48; enemies, 77; Green Chafer, 77; mildew, 77; right and wrong way of planting (illustrated), 123; raising plants from runners, 124; manure for, 125; arti- ficials for, 125; propagating (idlus- trated), 125; preparing plants for forcing (illustrated), 125; forcing, 126 ; varieties, 126 ; for forcing, 126; fruiting in pots (illustrated), 127; Thomas Laxton (illustrated), 128 Sulpharite, 78 Thrips, 72 Tobacco solution, 79 Trees, the best forms of, 6; preparing ground for, and planting, 3; pre- paring for grafting (illustrated), 43 ; banding to check Winter Moth (illus- trated), 71 Trellis, fixing, for cordon trees (ilus- trated), 1, 2 Vv Vines (see also Grapes), raising from eyes PICTORIAL PRACTIOAL FRUIT GROWING. 87; old » new, 88; 88; management of young, 89; forming fruiting cane (illustrated), 893 is home - raising advisable P 89; for planting, 89; making borders (illustrated), 90; planting inside or out (éllustrated), 91; shortening canes, 91; develop- ment of, 92; pruning, 92, 93; prun- ing after planting (illustrated), 93 ; general pruning (illustrated), 95; in greenhouses, 96; starting, 96; laterals (illustrated), 97; syringing, 98 ; tying shoots, 98; fertilisation, 99; selecting and thinning bunches, 100; ventila- tion and scalding, 100; varieties, 102 ; renovating old, 102; berries shanking, 104 (illustrated), 105; enemies, 104 ; ground vineries, 104; varieties for, 106; planting, ventilation, pruning, 106, 108; ground vineries (illustrated), 106, 107, 108, 109; outdoor culture and varieties, 109; large, 109 (illustrated), propagation, WwW Wax, grafting, 42 Weevil Nut, 76; Raspberry, 77 Winter Moth, the, 72; banding trees to check (idlustrated), 71 Printed by Cassett & Company, Limitep, La Betis Savvacs, LupoatEe Hitt, Lonpon. 50.1202 UNIFORM WORKS BY WALTER P. WRIGHT, Horticultural Superintendent under the Kent County Council, Editor of “The Gardener,” &e. Paper Covers, 1/= 5 post free, 1/25. Cloth, 1/6; post free, 1/9. “The style of the books is such that the least experienced can read and understand them —can put their teaching into actual and safe practice right away, while even those who are not experienced can discover much that is of value and interest within the covers.''—/Journal of Horticulture. Pictorial Practical Rose Growing. With about 100 Illustrations. Uniform with his popular handbooks on fruit, vegetable, and greenhouse management, Mr. Walter P, Wright has prepared a practical guide to rose culture under the title of ‘Pictorial Practical Rose Growing.'’ It describes the propagation of roses by budding, grafting, cuttings, and seed; the pruning of all types; the preparation of the soil and planting ; and how to lay out rose gardens. It gives selections of the best roses for beds, arches, walls, and shows ; deals with the destruction of insect and fungoid pests, and tells how to grow roses in pots, and how to exhibit. ‘ Pictorial Practical Rose Growing "’ is fully illustrated, and the engravings show clearly how every important operation connected with rose culture is performed, Pictorial Greenhouse Management, With nearly 100 Illustrations. ‘* Nothing could be more ingratiating."’—S¢. James's Gazette. “A useful handbook, with minute directions and many illustrations."" —Daily Graphic. ““We strongly recommend the book." —Yeovil Chronicle. Pictorial Practical Vegetable Growing. With nearly 100 Illustrations. “We have a high conception of the utility of all of Mr. Walter P. Wright's series of pictorial practical gardening books, and the vegetable book is as good as those we have previously noticed and commended. It is not the author's fault if they -do not make matters thoroughly clear," —/ournal of Horticulture. 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