SF. £ 971 ALBERT R. MANN ; LIBRARY | New YorK STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURE AND HoME ECONOMICS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS BEEKEEPING LIBRARY Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003421512 219 ‘vuew CLG Leap £00 bee, € 5uaq:paueidxs buidaay—saq jo SaHayshy 6S91 LLO‘€zg ds Aseiqry Aussans 405 UN Hau. 6S.2 MYSTERIES oF BHE-KEEPING EXPLAINED: BEING A COMPLETE ANALYSIS OF THE WHOLE SUBJECT; CONSISTING OF THE NATURAL HISTORY OF BEES, DIRECTIONS FOR OBTAINING THE-GREAT EST AMOUNT OF PURE SURPLUS HONEY WITH TUE LEAST POSSIRLE EXPENSE, REMEDIES FOR LOSSES GIVEN, AND THE SCIENCE OF “ LucK.? FULLY ILLUSTRATED—THE RESULT OF MORE THAN THIRTY YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN EXTENSIVE APIARIES. EIGHTH EDITION; CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE MOVABLE COMBS OF 1. L. LANGSTROTH. BY M. QUINBY, PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPER. ‘ NEW YORK: A. 0. MOORE, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER, {LATE ©. M. SAXTON & O0.,) NO. 140 FULTON STREET. 1859. Bxerec according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by N. QUINBY. a the Clerk’s Office of tne District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. alg =: E 59% ¥. 0. JENKXING, PRINTER AND @TSREOTYPED, CON TENTS. CHAPTERIL BRIEF HISTORY. Three kinds of Bees, Se Queen described, . . . Description and Duty of ‘Worlers; . 9 Description of Drones, . 9° Most Brood in Spring, se 10 =Their Industry, . . so. . CHAPTER II. Hives to be thoroughly made, . Different opinions about them, The Author has no Patent to recom- mend, 3 os @ os Speculators supported long enough, ; Prefix of Patent a bad recommen- dation, . 5 Ignorance of officers and Seance tees, . Opposition to aimnglicleve. . By gaining one point produce ano- ther evil, . ° . First Delusion, . Chamber Hive, a Mrs. Griffith’s Hive, . . Weeks’ Improvement, . . Inclined Bottom-boards do wt _ throw out all the worms, . Objections to suspended hives, ‘ See bees often, ee . . Hall’s Patent, . . . Jones’s Patent, . . e . . An Experiment, . . Reason of failure in dvviding hive, . Cause of starving in such hives, . Advantages of the changeable hive considered, . «© - . Variation of these hives, a oe HIVES. 18 Expense in eonstructing change- 14 able hives, . - The surplus honey will Soutaha ies 14 bread, . . . . . 15 — Description of Cutting’s emer hive, . A 15 First objection cost of eanatrbetion, Hives can be made with less ex- 15 pense, 16 = Old breeding cells will last a Jong time, ‘ i 16 ~—- Cells larger than necessary at first, 17. ' Expense of renewing combs, . 17 _——‘ Best to use old combs as long as 18 they willlast,. . «© . 18 = Driving and Pruning when neces- sary, a a 19 -Toolsfor Pruning, . - . « 19 Use of Tobacco Smoke, . aoe 20 Further objections to a sectional 21 hive, oS Ap eo 21 Non-Swarmers, . . oe 21 ~— Contrast of profit, . . . 22 ~=—s~ Principle of swarming not auder- 23 stood, . . . . . Not to be aapeaded upon,” . . 24 Hivesnotalways full beforeswarm- 25 ing,» » 6 8 el ‘ 8 i. 12 25 4 Size of hives needed, . . An Experiment, . . Bees do not increase if fall after the first year in same hive, Gillmore’s system doubted, Utility of moth-proof hives dovibied, Instincts of the bee always the same, me ¥ a ee Profit the object, . . . Common hive recommended, . Size Important, Small hives most hable 4 accidents, Apt to deceive, . 7 . . Unprofitable if too large, 3 fi Correct size between two extremes, Size for warm latitudes, : “i Larger hives more safe for long Winters or backward Spring, . 2000 inches safe for this section, . 37 37 38 3! 39 40 41 42 42 42 43 43 43 44 45 CONTENTS. Kind of Wood, width of Board, &c. Shape of little consequence, - Directions for making hives, . . Size of cap and boxes, . . . Miner's Hive, . . . . Directions for making holes, . - ASuggestion,. . .» + «+ Glass boxes preferred, . «© « Glass boxes—how made, > ice Guide-combs necessary, . . . Wood Boxes, . . . . . Cover for Hives, .- % + Jars and Tumblers—how prepared, Perfect Observatory Hive descri- bed, . . . . ‘4 One like Common Hive preferred, What may be seen, . . . Directions for making Glass Hive, . Plate for Hive, 8 ° . CHAPTERIII. Imperfectly Undertsood, o- % Good stocks seldom without brood, How small stocks commence, Different with larger ones, . How Pollen is stored in the breeding season, . . Operation of Ting, au the eee described, Time from the Egg to the perfect Bee, Rough treatment of the young Bee, Guess-work, - S a . Terms applied to young Bess, . Discrepancy in time in rearing brood as given by Huber, . The number of Eggs deposited by BREEDING. 62 A test for the presence of a 63 Queen, z . é . & 64 When Drones are reared, oe 65 When Queens, . . . . Liability of being destroyed, . . 65 Drones destroyed when honey is searce, . . . 66 Old Queen leaves ae the firet 67 swarm, . 67 Ayoung Queen wind the ples of 68 leer mother in the old stock, . 69 Other Theories, . . . . Subject not understood, . . . 70 Necessity for further observa- : tion; ee - 6 71 ‘Two sides of the question, . the Queen guessed at, . . CHAPTERIYV. BEE PASTURAGE. Substitate for Pollen, . . . Manner of packing it, . . : Alder yields the first, . . . Fruit Flowers important in good weather, er ee 88 89 89 91 Red Raspberry a favorite, . . Catnip, Mother-wort, and Hoar- hound, are sought after,, . Singular fatality attendant on Silk- weed, «§ » «& 4 91 92 CONTENTS. 5 Largo yield from Basswood, . . 96 Garden Flowers unimportant, - O7 Honey-dew, . . » 97 SingularSecretion,. . . . 98 Secretionsof the Aphis,. . . 98 Advantages of Buckwheat, . - 101 Amount of honey collected from ity % & © @ ow. or DOL Do Bees injure the crop?. C . 102 Are not Bees an advantage to vege- tation? . < we fe - 103 _A test for the presence of Queen doubted, . . « + . 106 An extra quantity of Pollen not always detrimental, « « 17 What combs are generally free from Bee-bread, . . . 108 Manner of packing stores, + 108 Philosophy in filling a cell with honey, . . . . - 109 Long cells sometimes turned up- ward, . . - 110 Is a dry or wet season best for honey? . c - ii How many Stocks should be kept, . 112 Three principal sources of honey, 112 CHAPTER VY. WAX. Is Pollen converted into Wax ? - 115 ‘Are crooked Combs a disadvantage ? 120 How is it obtained ? + + «115 Uncertainty in weight of Bees, . 122 Huber’s account of a commence- Some wax wasted, » «4 «12 mentofcomb,. . . .117 Water necessary in Comb-mak- Best time to witness comb-making, 118 ing,» - © «© « « 12 Manner of working Wax, . - 119 Remarks, . = & . « 126 CHAPTER VI. PROPOLIS. What used for, . : - 128 Huber’s Opinion, . «© « ~~ 129 Is it an elaborate or adthral sub- Further Proof, o 6 « «6 129 stance? . . . - .. 129 Remarks, é . . . - 132 CHAPTER VII. THE APIARY. ie Italocation, . . « «+ «182 Space between Hives, . . . 136 Decide Early,. -. + . 183 ‘Small Matters, . a» w» ee Bees mark their location on leaving Economy, . . . - 137 the hive, . . . . . 134 Cheap arrangement ‘of stands, - 138 Changing stand attended with Canal Bottom-board discarded, . 139 loss, - . - » 134 Can, be taken some datsues, . . 185 Sanger of setting Stocks too close, 135 Some advantage in, being near the earth, . = 6 + « 189 Utility of Bee-Houses doubted, . 141 6 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. ROBBERIES. Not properly understood, a . 142 Improper Remedies, . . «143 Difficulty indeciding, . » «144 Weak families inmost danger, . 144 Their Battles, . « 145 Bad policy to raise the Hives, - 146 Indications of cua . . . 146 ADuty, . 6 «© «© «© «147 ATest, . oo. . . - 147 Robbing usually commences on a warmday, . « . 148 Remedies, . . < é . 149 Common Opinion, . . ~ «. 149 A case in point, . . . « 149 Further Directions,. —« - 150 Common cause of commsicize, - 151 Spring the worst time, - . - 152 No necessity to have Bees plun- deredinthe fall, . .« - 153 CHAPTER IX. FEEDING BEES. Should be a last resort, . 154 Care needed, . . . . - 1bt Apparent contradiction when feed- ing causes starvation, . . 155 How long it will do to wait before feeding, - es « « « 256 Directions for feeding, . . . 157 Whole Families may desert the Hive, . . » + 158 : Objections to general feeding, . 159 Arrangement for feeding, . . 159 Feeding to induce early eae - 161 DESTRUCTION OF WORMS. What may be fed, . . . » 162 Is candied honey injurious? . . 162 CHAPTER X. ‘ Some in the best Stocks, : 164 Objection Auswered, . + 169 How Found, .. . - 165 A tool for their destraction, . 165 Mistaken Conclusions, . . - 167 Objections to suspended Bottom- board, % - 167 Advantage of the Hive close to the board, . . . . - 168 Insufficiency of inclined Bottom- board, . o 8 « 169 A Moth can go where Bees CHAPTER XI. PUTTING, ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. Advantage of the Patent Vender, . 172 Time of puttng on—Rule, - «172 Making holes after the Hive is falls %- 4 174 Advantage of proper arrangement, 174 Directions for boring holes in full Stock, ‘ - 176 To be taken of ite filed, - 17 can, - ‘ - 170 Trap to catch Worms, + .« «170 Box for Wren, » 6 «6 «171 Time taken to fill a box, . - «178 When to take off boxes part full, . 178 Tobacco Smoke preferred to Slides, 178 Manner of disposing of the Bees ‘in the boxes, “ ‘6 < - 179 Bees disposed to carry away honey, 179 Not disposed tosting, . . « 180 Rule, see 18] CONTENTS. 7 CHAPTER XII. SECURING HONEY FROM THE MOTH. Two things to be prevented, . 181 Aptto be deceived about the Worms, 182 Their progress described, +. 182 A Solution offered, . - 183 Method of killing Worms in boxes, . 185 Freezing destroysthem,. . . 186 Objection to using Boxes before the ‘ Hiveisfull, . . « © 18% CHAPTER XIII. SWARMING. Time toexpectthem, . . . 187 All Bee-Keepers should understand it as it is, . . . - 188 Means of understanding it, - » 188 Inverting a stock rather formidable atfirst, . ‘ . 189 Requisites before siesondation of Queen’s cells, 3 - 189 State of Queen-cell when used, . 190 State when swarms issue, + 190 Clastering outside not always to be depended upon, — Examinations—the result, . Remarks, . . » « «1% Conflicting Theories, . . + 192 Both Old and Young leave with swarms, . - 192 Cause of the Queen’s inabiliy? to fly suggested, ; . » 198 Evidence of the Old Gusecit sleaving, 193 Mr. Weeks’s Theory not satisfac- tory, . . . . - 194 Mr. Miner not correct, . . . 195 Particular directions for testing the matter, . . « 196 Empty Hives to be realy, . Bottom-boards for hiving, . «. 197 Description of swarm issuing, . 198 Manner of hiving can be varied, . 199 Usual Methods, - «© e* *. 199 When out of reach, + + #200 When they cannot be shaken off, . 202 All should be made toenter, . . -208 Should be taken to the stand imme- diately, . . + + 208 Protection from the Sun neces- sary, . . . . » 203 Clustering Bushes, . - 204 Tow swarms are generally man- aged that leave for the woods, 205 Nothing but Bees needed in a Hive, 206 Seldom go off without clustering, . 207 Do swarms choose a location before swarming?: . . . + 207 Means of arresting aswarm, . + 208 Some Compulsion,,. .« . © . 208 How far will they.go in search of ahome? . . . « 209 Two or more swarms liable to i unite, . a te . - 211 Disadvantage, oo» « « Ot Can often be prevented, . . . 212 Indications of swarming inside the _ Hive, « 8 «© » , « BIZ Préventing a swarm ears for a time, - 213 To prevent swarms uniting with those already hived, . . 213 When two have united—the method of separating, . eas ene . 214 No danger of a sting by the Queen, 215 ‘Some precautions in hiving two swarms together, <: °°. > 216 How to find Queen when two stran- gers aretogether, . . - 217 Boxes for double swarms mmme- diately, . . . - 218 Returning a part to the old stock, . 218 Method of uniting, . a 4 . 218 When care is necessary, . 219 8 CONTENTS. Swarm-Catcher, . . Fi - 220 Swarms sometimes return, . ~ 222 Repetition prevented, - a ~ 222 Liability to enter wrong stocks, . 223 First issues generally choose fair weather, . « 224 AFTER SWARMS, . . . « 225 Their Size, . «eee 225 Time after the first, . . . - 225 Piping of the Queen, . « 225 May always be heard before an afterswarm, . . . . 226 Time of continuance varies, . . 226 Time between second and third is- sues, . + 227 Not always to be depenited upon, . 227 A Rule for the time of these issues, 228 When it is useless to expect more swarms, . + a ae » 228 Plurality of Queens destroyed, - 229 The Manner, . . + « « 230 Theory doubted, . 21 After-swarms different in appear- ance from the first, when about CHAPTER XIV. LOSS OF QUEENS. Of swarms that lose their Queen, . 238 A suggestion and an answer, . ~ 239 Adisputed question, . . 240 A multitude of Drones intel, . 21 The Queen liable to be lost in her ex- cursions, . fui | ae - 243 The time when it occurs, se Indications of the loss, . 5 to issue, . ‘ . . 232 Time of day, weather, iy 5 » 233 Swarms necessary to be seen, 233 Returning after-swarms to the old stock, eo 235 When they should be returned, . 235 Method of doing it, a 2 « 285 More care needed by After-swarms when hived, . . . - 237 Two may be united, . & e287 The Result, . . + 245 Age of Bees indicated, . . - 246 Necessityof care, . . . . 246 Remedy, . - » PAT Mark the date of swarmson ithe Hive, 248 Obtaining a Queen from worker brood, . oe e+ PAD They are poor dependence, . . 249 CHAPTER XV. ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. Principles should be und yd, . 252 Some Experiments, * - 253 The result unsatisfactory, ‘ - 253 Further Experiments, . . . 264 Asuccessful method, - 256 Advantages of this method, - 257 Antificial swarms only safe near the swimming season, . . 259 Sometimes hazardous, . . - 259 Some Objections, . : - 259 Natural and artificial swarms equally prosperous, . ° « 260 This matter too often delay- ed, . . - 261 Is the age of the dicen impor- tant? . * . . - 261 CHAPTER XVI. PRUNING, Different opmions astotime,. . 262 Another time preferred, . - 263 Should not be delayed, ~ «38 Objection to Pruning, . » 264 Stocks pruned now are betier for winter, . es leg og 265 CONTENTS, 9 -CHAPTER XVII. DISEASED BROOD, Not generally understood, . . 266 My own experience, oo + 267 Description of Disease, . . 267 The cause uncertain, . . . 268 Remedial Experiments, . . . 268 Public inquiry and answers,. . 268 Answers not salisfactory, . + 270 A cause suggested, eo + 270 Reasons for the opinion,, . . 272 Cause of itsspreading, . . =. 273 Not easily detected a ‘first, « 274 Symptoms to be observed, . . 274 Scalding the honey to destroy the poison for feeding, . . . 275 When to examine stocks that have swarmed, ee we BIB Care in selecting stock-hives for CHAPTER XVIII. IRRITABILITY OF BEES. Their means of defence, © 2 QT Time of greatest Irritability, . « 278 ProperConduct, . «4 + 278 How to proceed when attacked, . 279 A person’s breath offensive, and other causes, . i . » 279 Their manner of attack, - 6 278, CHAPTER XIX. ENEMIES OF BEES. Are they all guilty ? < + « 286 Rats and Mice, so - 287 Are all the Birds guilty? - «288 King-bird—one word in his favor, . 288 Cat-bird acquitted,. . - 289 Toad gotclear, . c . - 290 Wasps and Hornets not favored, . 290 Ants—a word intheir favor, . . 291 Spider condemned, 7 » , « 292 Wax-Moth unrivalled for mischief, 293 Indications of their pr + 296 Management,. . . «© « 296 Care in turning over Hives, . + 297 winter, . . . . . 2% Accusations not always right, . 576 Smoker described, . . « . 280 Effectof TobaccoSmoke, . . 281 Sting described, . . . . 282 Does its loss prove fatal? - « 283 Means of protection, . . . 284 ‘Remedies for stings, . . - 285 Other symptoms of Worms, . « 298 When they grow larger than usual, 299 Time of Growth, . . . « 299 Time of Transformation, - «800 Freezing destroys Worms, Cocoon, and Moth, + 6 « « 800 How they pass the Winter, . . 801 Stocks more liable to be destroyed lastof Summer, . . . 801 When Bees are safe, . . « 302 Means to destroy them, . . 302 Making them drunk and their execu- tion by Chickens, . . . 803 CHAPTER xx: MELTING DOWN OF COMBS. - 804 + 804 TheCause, . 8 Bice, «© « «§ 8 & First Indications, . . . =. 308 Prevention, . ». « + + 3% 10 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXI. FALL MANAGEMENT. First Care, . - 307 Strong Stocks sieponsl to vpinadee 307 Bees Changeable, ~ .« . - 808 Requisites for good Stocks, . - 308 Great aaa of killing the Bees, . . . - 809 ction of country may make a dif- ference in what poor stocks need, up ee - + 809 When Bees are needed, . . . 310 Caution, . eae gy ow BLL Principal Difficulty . . . 311 How Avoided, ee hi » » Sil Advantages of making one good stock from two poor ones, . 312 Two families together will not con- sume as much asif separate, . 312 An Experiment, . . 314 Season for operating, . . . 313 The Fumigator, 7 . » . 814 Directions for uniting two families, 315 Uniting with Tobacco Smoke, - 817 Condition of Stocks in 1851,°. =. 318 How they were managed, . - 318 Cause of their superior Thrift, . 819 Swarms partly filled pay better than tocutoutthe honey, . . 320 Advantages in transferring, . . 320 Another method of. uniting two families, . . . 6 - 821 Uniting Comb and Haney as well as Bees, : . . « 822 When feeding should be done for Stock Hives, . . . « 828 CHAPTER XXII. WINTERING BEES. Different methods have been adopt- Ode as ke a, ae) BOD The idea of Bees not freezing has led to errors in practice, . - 826 Appearance of Bees in cold wea- ther, HO ae 8 - . 826 How part of the swarm is frozen, . 327 How asmall family may all freeze, 327 Frost and Ice sometimes smother Bees, . - 828 Frost and Ice in a Hive abunntéa for, . . . , - 329 The effect of Ice or nas on Bees and Comb, be . - 330 ‘Frost may cause starvation, . - 330 Other Difficulties, . » «+ - 830 Further Llustrations, - « - 882 Accumulation of Faces described oy some writers as adisease, . 336 The Author’s remedy, . - 337 Burying Bees... . «© « «887 Experiments of the Author to get tid of the Frost, » «+ . 838 Guecess inthis matter, . . . 838 Bees when in the house should be kept perfectly dark, . . . 339 A room made for wintering Bees, . 339 Manner of stowing away Hives, . 340 Temperature of room, . . . S41 Too much Honey may sometimes be stored, . . . . « 342 Management of room towards Spring, . . . Time for setting out = we Not too many stocks taken out at once, oS Me . Families may be sual’, i? Snow need not always prevent car- rying out Bees, . . Does not Analogy prove that Bees should be kept warm in Winter ? 345 The next best place for wintering Bees, + 2 « . 846 Evils of wintering in the open air considered, 7 + « . BAT But httle risk with good stocks, . 348 Effect of keeping second-rate stocks outof thesun,. . « 849 CONTENTS. 11 Effects of Snow considered, . 849 Stocks to be protected on some oc- casions, . . «+ 850 Do the Bees cat more wnen allowed to come out occasionally in Win- ler? . . . . . « 852 CHAPTER XXIII. SAGACITY OF BEES, Are not Bees directed alone by in- stinct? 2. + + 853 What they do with Propolie, - =. 858 Mending broken Comps,. —. . 354 Making passages to every part of their Combs, . . . «3855 CHAPTER XXIV. STRAINING HONEY AND WAX. Methods of removing Combs from theHive,. . . . . 857 Different modes of straining Honey, 858 . Getting out Wax—different methods, 360 CHAPTER XXV. PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. Why the word luck is applied to Bees, . . . - 362 Rule in taking Bees for ashare, . 364 Aman may sell his “luck,” - 364 First-rate stocks wectnuniediod to Size of Hives important, - 867 How large Hives can be made smaller, . . . - 368 Moderate weather best to remove Bees, . . . FE - 369 begin with, . . x . 865 Preparations for transporting Bees, 370 Old stocks are good as any if Securing Bees in the Hive, . - 370 healthy, . é . . « 365 Best Conveyance, . . . . 370 Caution respecting diseased brood, 366 Hive to be inverted, “ G . 871 Result of ignorance in purch ig, 366 Conclusi . . . . - 872 APPENDIX. First experience with the Movable- comb Hive, . . rs é First artificial swarm, . . » 378 How to prevent second swarms, . 378 Loss of Queens readily ascertained, 378 ’ How to secure an eira swarm—a valuable operation for those who wish to increase their stocks tothe utmost. . How to strengthen weak stocks, To prevent rearing too many drones, 380 Drone-combs, containing Honey, should be given to a Sonny needing stores, . 380 Advantage in wintering. . 380 Directions for making Hives, ” » 381 Winter passages, . . . - 382 Bee-hat, - How to ‘quiet Bees for examination, 384 -Directions for examining combs, . 384 How to hiveaswarm, . .- - 384 How to transfer Bees and combs from common Hive into frames, 384 Moving Bees,. . « - 884 PREFACE. Berore the reader decides that an apology is ne- cessary for the introduction of another work on bees into the presence of those already before the public, it'is hoped that he will have the patience to examine the contents of this. “The writer of the following pages commenced bee- keeping in 1828, without any knowledge of the busi- ness to assist him, save a few directions about hiving, smoking them with sulphur, &c. Nearly. all ,the in- formation to.be had was so mingled with erroneous whims and notions, that it required a long experience to separate essential and consistent points. It was impossible to procure a work that gave the information necessary for practice. From that. time to the present, no sufficient guide for the inexperienced has appeared. European works, republished here, are of but little value. Weeks, Townley, Miner, and others, writers of this country, within a few years, have given us treatises, valuable to some extent, but have entirely neglected several chapters, very important and essen- tial to the beginner. Keeping bees has been, and is 2 PREFACE. now, by the majority, deemed a hazardous enterprise. The ravages of the moth had been so great, and loss so frequent, that but little attention was given to the subject for along time. Mr. Weeks lost his entire stock three times in twenty-five years. . But soon after the discovery was promulgated, that honey could be taken from a stock without destroying the bees, an addi- tional attention was manifest, increasing to a rage in many places. It seems to be easily understood, that profit must attend success, in this branch of the farm. er’s stock; inasmuch as the “bees work for nothing and find themselves.” This interest in bees should be encouraged to continue till enough are kept to collect all the honey now wasted; which, compared with the present collections, would be more than a thousand pounds to one. But to succeed, that is the difficulty. Some eighteen years since, after a propitious season, an aged and esteemed friend said to me, ‘It is not to be expected that you will have such luck always; you must expect they will run out after a time. I have always noticed, when people have first-rate luck for a time, that the bees generally take a turn, and are gone in a few years.” I am not sure but, to the above remarks, may be traced the cause of my subsequent success. It stimu- lated me to observation and inquiry. I soon found that good seasons were the “Jucky” ones, and that many lost in an adverse season, all they had before gained. Also, that strong families were the only ones on which I could depend for protection against the moth. This induced the effort to ascertain causes PREFACE. 3 tending to diminish the size of families, and the appli- cation of remedies. Whethersuccess has attended my efforts or not, the reader can judge, after a perusal of the work. It is time that the word “luck,” as applied-to bee- keeping, was discarded. The prevailing opinion, that bees will prosper for one person more than another, under the same circumstances, is fallacious. As well might it be applied to the mechanic and farmer. The careless, ignorant farmer, might occasionally succeed in raising a crop with a poor fence; but would be lia- ble, at any time, to lose it by trespassing cattle. He might have suitable soil in the beginning, but without knowledge, for the proper application of manures, it might fail to produce; unless a chance application hap- pened to be right. But with the intelligent farmer the case is different: ’ fences in order, manures judiciously applied, and with propitious seasons, he makes a sure thing of it. Call him “lucky” if you please; it is his knowledge, and care, that render him so. So with bee-keeping, the careful man is the “lucky” one. There can be no effect without a preceding cause. If you lose a stock of bees, there is a cause or causes producing it, just as certain as the failure of a crop with the unthrifty farm- er, can be traced to a poor fence, or unfruitful soil. You may rest assured, that a rail is off your fence of management somewhere, or the proper. applications have not been made. In relation to bees, these things may not be quite so apparent, yet nevertheless true. Why is there so much more ‘uncertainty in apiarian 4 PREFACE, science than other farming operations? It must be attributed to the fact, that among the thousands who are engaged in, and have studied agriculture, perhaps not more than one has given his energies to the nature and habits of bees. If knowledge is elicited in the same ratio, we ought to have a thousand times more light on one subject than the other, and still there are some things, even in agriculture, that may yet be learned. It is supposed, by many, that we already have all the knowledge that the subject of bees affords. This is not surprising; a person that was never furnished with a full treatise, might arrive at such conclusions. Unless his own experience goes deeper, he can have no means of judging what is yet behind. In conversation relative to this work, with a person of considerable scientific attainments, he remarked, “You do not want to give the natural history of bees at all; that is already sufficiently understood.” And how is it understood; as Huber gives it, or in accord- ance with some of our own writers? If we take Huber as a guide, we find many points recently contradicted. If we compare authors of our day, we find them con- tradicting each other. One recommends a peculiarly constructed hive, as just the thing adapted to their nature and instincts. Ifa single point is in accordance with their nature, he labors to twist all the others to his purpose, although it may involve a fundamental ‘principle impossible to reconcile. Some one else suc- ceeds in another point, and proceeds to recommend something altogether different. alse and contradic: PREFACE. 5 tory assertions are made either through ignozance, or interest. Interest may blind the judgment, and spu- rious history may deceive. It is folly to expect success in bee-keeping for any length of time, without a correct knowledge of their nature and instincts; and this we shall never obtain by the course hitherto pursued. As much of their labor is performed in the dark, and difficult to be ob- served, it has given rise to conjecture and false rea- soning, leading to false conclusions. When J say a thing ¢s so, or say it is not so, oe evidence has the reader that it is proved or demon- strated? My mere assertions are not expected to be taken in preference to another's ; of such proof, we have more than enough. Most people have not the time, patience, or ability, to set down quietly with close ob- servation, and investigate the subject thoroughly. Hence it has been found easier to receive error for truth, than to make the exertion necessary to confute it; the more so, because there is no guide to direct the investigation. I shall, therefore, pursue a differ- ent course; and for every assertion endeavor to give a test, that the reader may apply and satisfy himself, and trust to noone. As for theories, I shall try to keep them separate from facts, and offer such evidence as I have, either for or against them. If the reader has further proof that presents the matter in another light, of course he will exercise the right to a differ- ence of opinion. . I could give a set of rules for practice, and be very brief, but this would be unsatisfactory. When we are 1* 6 PREFACE. told a thing must be done, most of us, like the “inquis- itive Yankee,” have a desire to know why it is neces: sary; and then like to know how todo it. This gives us confidence that we are right. Hence, I shall en- deavor to give the practical part, in as close connec- tion with the natural history, that dictates it, as pos- sible. This work will contain several asians entirely new to the public: the result of my own experience, that will be of the utmost value to all who desire to realize the greatest possible advantages from their bees. The additions to chapters already partially discussed. by others, will contain much original matter not to be found elsewhere. When many stocks are kept,. the chapter on “ Loss of Queens,” alone, will, with atten- tion, save to any one, not in the secret, enough in one season to be worth more in value- than many times the cost of this work. The same might be said of those on diseased brood, artificial swarms, wintering bees, and many others. : If such a work could have been placed in my hands twenty years ago, I should have realized hundreds of. dollars by the information. But instead of this, my course has been, first to suffer a loss, and then find out the remedy, or preventive; from which the reader may be exempt, as I can confidently recommend these - directions. Another new feature will be found in the duties of each season being kept by itself, commencing with the spring and ending with the winter management. PREFACE. 7 In my anxiety to be understood by all classes of readers, I am aware that I have made the elegant con- struction and arrangement of sentences of secondary importance; therefore justly liable to criticism. But to the reader, whose object is information on this sub- ject, it can be of but little consequence. Coxsackie, 1853. M. QUINBY. Since the publication of the first editions of this treatise, the writer has left Coxsackie in Greene Co., for St. Johnsville, Montgomery Co., N. Y. During the past season, the author and a few neigh- bors who manage according to his system, have fur- nished for market over 20,000 pounds of box-honey. This fact has been noticed, and copied extensively in the newspapers, as something remarkable, awakening much curiosity. -As his address was given in connec- tion, he has been beset with letters of inquiry as to what system of bee-culture was pursued, from those who are not aware of the existence of this work. It is impossible to answer in detail by letter; but in this volume every question, with many others, have been anticipated and fully discussed. Since the above date of the first edition, he has had the experience of several additional years, which have suggested no important alteration or addition. So many have tested the prac- ticability of his system with such uniform success, that he again offers it to the public with increased confidence.—St, Johnsville, N. Y., January, 1857. M. QUINBY. PREFACE TO EIGHTH EDITION. THe Appendix now added to this work gives direc- tions for using, and sets forth some of the advantages of, L. L. Langstroth’s movable-comb hive. Could the Author have taken his choice, its appear- ance would have been deferred till the result of some experiments now in progress had been completed. But the numerous inquiries for an opinion of its merits indicate that there is too much interest for any longer delay. At present, there is but little alteration in the body of the work. There will be some who still adhere to the common box-hive. Most of the natural history and practical directions apply to both hives alike, and will serve both classes of Bee-keepers. M. QUINBY. Sr. Jonnsvitte, Montcomery Co., N. Y., January 1, 1859. (8) CHAPTERLI A BRIEF HISTORY. THREE KINDS OF BEES. _ Every frosperous swarm, or family of bees, must contain one queen, several thousand workers, and, part of the year, a few hundred drones. WORKER, DRONE. QUEEN DESCRIBED. The queen is the mother of the entire family ; her. duty appears to be only to deposit eggs in the cells. Her abdomen has its full size very abruptly where it joins the trunk or body, and then gradually tapers to a point. She is longer than either the drones or workers, but her size, in other respects, is a medium between the two. In shape she resembles the worker more than the drone; and, like the worker, has a sting, but will not use it for anything below royalty. 1* 9 10 A BRIEF HISTORY. She is nearly destitute of down, or hairs; a very little may be seen about her head and trunk. This gives her a dark, shining appearance, on the upper side— some aré nearly black. Her legs are somewhat longer than those of a worker; the two posterior ones, and the under surface, are often of a bright copper color. In some of them a yellow stripe nearly encircles the abdomen at the joints, and meets on the back. Her wings are about the same as the workers, but as her abdomen is much longer, they only reach about two- thirds the length of it. For the first few days after leaving the cell, her size is much less than after she has assumed her maternal duties. She seldom, per- haps never, leaves the hive, except when leading a swarm, and when but a few days old, to meet the drones, in the air, for. the purpose of fecundation. The manner of the queen’s impregnation is yet a dis- puted point, and probably never witnessed by any one. The majority of close observers, I believe, are of opinion that the drones are the males, and that sexual connection takes place in the air,* performing their amours while on the wing, like the humble-bee and some other insects. It appears that one impreg- nation is operative during her life, as old queens are not afterwards seen coming out for that purpose. DESCRIPTION AND DUTY OF WORKERS. As all labor devolves on the workers, they are pro- *The objectors to this hypothesis will be generally found among those who are unable to give a more plausible elucidation. Those who oppose the fact that one bee is the mother of the whole family, will probably be in the same class, A BRIEF HISTORY. 11 vided with a sack, or bag, for honey. Basket-like | cavities are on their legs, where they pack the pollen of flowers into little pellets, convenient to bring home. They are also provided with a sting, and a virulent poison, although they will not use it abroad when un- molested, but, if attacked, will generally defend them- selves sufficient to escape. They range the fields for honey and pollen, secrete wax, construct combs, prepare food, nurse the young, bring water for the use of the community, obtain propolis to seal up all crev- ices about the hive, stand guard, and keep out intru-— ders, robbers, &c., &c. DESCRIPTION OF DRONES. When the family is large and honey abundant, a brood of drones is reared; the number, probably, depends on the yield of honey, and size of the swarm, more than anything else. As honey becomes scarce, they are destroyed. Their bodies are large and rather — ‘clumsy, covered with short hairs or bristles. Their . abdomen terminates very abruptly, without the sym- metry of the queen or worker. Their buzzing, when on the wing, is louder, and altogether different from the others. They seem to be of the least value of any in the hive. Perhaps not more than one in a thousand is ever called upon to perform the duty for which they were designed. Yet they assist, on some occasions, to keep up the animal heat necessary in the old hive after a swarm has left. MOST BROOD IN SPRING, Tn spring and first of summer, when nearly all the 12 A BRIEF HISTORY. combs are empty, and food abundant, they rear brood more extensively than at any other period, (towards fall more combs are filled with honey, giving less room for brood.) The hive soon becomes crowded with bees, and royal cells are constructed, in which the queen deposits her eggs. When some of these young queens are advanced sufficiently to be sealed over, the old one, and the greater part of her subjects, leave for a new location, (termed swarming.) They soon collect in a cluster, and, if put into an empty hive, commence anew their labors; constructing combs, rearing brood, and storing honey, to be aban- doned on the succeeding year for another tenement. One in a hundred may do it the same season, if the hive is filled and crowded again in time to warrant it. Only large early swarms do this. THEIR INDUSTRY. Industry belongs to their nature. When the flow- ers yield honey, and the weather.is fine, they need no impulse from man to perform their part. When their tenement is supplied with all things necessary to reach another spring, or their store-house full, and no neces- sity or room for an addition, and we supply them with. more space, they assiduously toil to fill it up. Rather than to waste time in idleness, during a bounteous yield of honey, they have been known to deposit their surplus in combs outside the hive, or under the stand. This natural industrious habit lies at the foundation: of allthe advantages in bee-keeping; consequently our hives must be constructed with this end in view; HIVES. 13 and at the same time not interfere with other points of their nature; but this subject will be discussed in the next chapter. Those peculiar traits in their na- ture, mentioned in this, will be more fully discussed in different parts of this work, as they appear to be called for, and where proof will be offered to sustain the positions here assumed, which as yet are nothing more than mere assertions. CHAPTER II. HIVES. HIVES TO BE THOROUGHLY MADE, Hives should be constructed of good materials, boards of good thickness, free from flaws and cracks, well fitted and thoroughly nailed. The time of making them is not very particular, providing itis done in season. It certainly should not be put off till the swarming period, to be made as wanted, because if they are to be painted, it should be done as long as possible before, as the rank smell of oil and paint, just applied, might be offensive to the bees. But what kind of hive shall be made? In answer, some less than a thousand forms have been given. The advantages of bee-keeping depend as much upon the construction of hives, as any one thing; yet there is no subject pertaining to them on 14 HIVES. which there is such a variety of opinions, and I have but little hopes of reconciling all these conflicting views, opinions, prejudices, and interests. DIFFERENT OPINIONS ABOUT THEM. One is in favor of the old box, and the cruel prac- tice of killing the bees to obtain the honey, as the only means to obtain “‘luck ;” “they are sure to run out if they. meddle with them.” Another will rush to the opposite extreme, and advocate all the extravagant fancies of the itinerant patent-vender, as the ne plus ultra of all hives, when perhaps it would be worth more for fire-wood than the apiary. THE AUTHOR HAS NO PATENT TO RECOMMEND. To remove from the mind of the reader all appre- hension that I am about condemning one patent to recommend another, I would say in the beginning, that Thave no patent to praise, no interest in deceiving, and I hope no prejudices to influence me, in advocating or condemning any system. I wish to make bee-keeping plain, simple, economical, and profitable ; so that when we sum up the profit “it shall not be found in the other pocket.” It is a principle recognized by our statute, that no person is suitable as a Juror, who is biased either by interest or prejudice. Now whether I am the impar- tial Jurist, is not for me to say: but I wish to discuss the subject fairly. I hope some few will be enabled to see their own interest: at any rate, dismiss prejudice, HIVES. % 15 a8 far as possible, while we examine wherein one clase in community is unprofitable to bee-keepers. SPECULATORS SUPPORTED LONG ENOUGH. We have faithfully supported a host of speculators on our business for a long time; often not caring one straw about our success, after pocketing the fee of successful “‘humbuggery.” One is no sooner gone, than we are beset by another, with something altogether different, and of course the acme of per- fection. : PREFIX OF PATENT A BAD RECOMMENDATION. This has been done until the very prefix of patent, or premium, attached to a hive, renders it almost certain that there must be something deleterious to the apiarian; either in expense of construction or intricate and perplexing in management, requiring an engineer to manage, and a skilful architect to con- struct. What does the American savage, who without difficulty can track the panther or wolf, know of the principles of chemistry? What does the Chemist know of following a track in the forest, when nothing but withered leaves can guide him? Each understands principles, the mnutie of which the other never dreamed. IGNORANCE OF OFFICERS AND COMMITTEES. Thus it appears to be with granting patents and premiums, if we take what has been patented and 16 HIVES. praised by our committees and officers as improvements in bee-culture. These men may be capable, intelligent, and well fitted for their sphere, but in bee matters, about as capable of judging, as the Hottentot would be of the merits of an intricatesteam-engine. Know- ledge and experience are the only qualifications com- petent to decide. OPPOSITION TO SIMPLICITY. I am aware that among the thousands whose direct interest is opposed to my simple, plain. manner of get- ting along, many will be ready to contend with me for every departure from their patent, improved or pre- mium hives, as the case may be. BY GAINING ONE POINT, PRODUCE ANOTHER EVIL. I think it will be an easy matter to show that every departure from simplicity to gain one point, is attend- ed in another by a correspondent evil, that often ex- ceeds the advantage gained. That we have made vast Improvements in art and science, and in every de- partment of human affairs, no one will deny; conse- quently, it is assumed we must correspondingly im- prove in a bee-hive; forgetting that nature has fixed limits to the instinct of the bee, beyond which she will not go! It will be necessary to point out the advantages and objections to these pretended improvements, and then we will see if we cannot avoid the objections, and retain the advantages, without the expense, by a sim- ple addition to the common hive; because if we ex: HIVES, 17 ‘pect to encourage bee-keeping, they must have better success than a neighbor of mine, who expended fifty dollars for bees and a patent, and lost all in three years! Most bee-keepers are farmers; very few are engineers sufficient to work them successfully. I would say to all such as do not understand the nature of bees, adhere to simplicity until you do, and then I am quite sure you will have no desire for a change. _ FIRST DELUSION, Probably the first delusion in the patent line ori- ginated with the idea, that to obtain surplus honey, it was absolutely necessary to have a chamber hive. To get rid of the depredations of mice, the suspended hive was contrived. The inclined bottom-board was then added to throw out the worms. To prevent the combs from sliding down, the lower end was con- tracted. The principle of bees rearing queens from worker- eggs when destitute, gave rise-to the dividing hive in several forms. Comb, when used several years, be- comes thickened and black, and needs changing; hence the changeable hives. Non-swarmers have been in- troduced to save risk and trouble. Moth:proof hives to prevent the ravages of worms, &c., &c.» CHAMBER HIVE. The chamber hive is made with two apartments; the lower and largest is for the permanent, residence of the bees, the upper or chamber for the boxes. Its merits are these: the chamber affords all the protec- 18 HIVES. tion necessary for glass boxes; considered as a cover, it is never lost. Its demerits are inconvenience in handling; it occupies more room if put in the house in the winter; if glass boxes are used, only one end can be seen, and this may be full when the other may hold some pounds yet, and we cannot possibly know until itis taken out. I know we are told to return such boxes when not full “ and the bees will soon finish them,” but this will depend on the yield of honey at the time; if abundant, it will be filled; if not, they will be very likely to take a hint, and remove below what there is in the box; whereas if the chamber was separate from the hive, and was not a chamber but a loose cap to cover the boxes, it could be raised at any time without disturbing a single bee, and the precise time of the boxes being filled ascertained, (that is, when they are of glass.) MRS, GRIFFITH’S HIVE. Mrs. Griffith, of New Jersey, is said to have invented the suspended chamber hive with the inclined bottom- board. One would suppose this was sufficiently in- convenient to use, and difficult and expensive to con- struct. WEEKS’ IMPROVEMENT, Yet Mr. Weeks makes an alteration, calls it an improvement, the expense is but a trifle more; it is sufficient to be sanctioned by a patent. From front to rear, the bottom is about three inches narrower than the top, somewhat wedge-shape; it has the merit to HIVES. 19 prevent the combs from slipping down, when they happen to be made, to have the edges supported. The objections are, that filth from the bees will not fall as readily to the bottom as if every side was perpendicu- lar, and the extra trouble in constructing. INCLINED BOTTOM-BOARDS DO NOT THROW OUT ALL THE WORMS, Inclined bottom-boards form the basis of one or twa patents, said to be good to roll out the worms. I can imagine a pea rolling off such a board; but a worm is not often found in a rolling condition. Most of us know, that when a worm drops from the combs, it is like the. spider, with a thread attached above. The only way that I can imagine one to be thrown out by these boards, is to have it dead when it strikes-it, or so cold that it cannot spin a thread, and wind to shake the board, till it rolls off. The objections to these boards are coupled with the suspended hive, with which they are usually connected. OBJECTIONS TO SUSPENDED HIVES. All suspended hives must be objectionable to any one who wishes to know the true condition of his bees at all times. Only think of the trouble of unhooking the bottom-board, and getting down on your back, or twisting your neck till your head is dizzy, to look up among the combs, and then see nothing satisfactory for want of light; or to lift the hive from its support- ers, and turn it over. The operation is too formida- ble for an indolent’ man, or one that has much other -business. The examination would very probably be 20 HIVES. put off till quite sure it would do no longer, and some- times a few days after that, when you will very often find your bees past remedy. SEE BEES OFTEN. “ See your bees often,” is a choice recipe,—it is worth five hundred dollars at interest, even when you have but few stocks. How necessary then that we have every facility for a close and minute inspection. How much easier to turn up a hive that simply rests on a stand. Sometimes it is necessary to turn the hive even bottom up, and let the rays of the sun directly among the combs, to see all the particulars. By this close inspection, I have often ascertained the cause of some difficulty, and provided aremedy, thus saving a good many that in a short time would have been lost ; yet, with a little help, were as valuable as any by another year. HALL’S PATENT, Mr. Hall has added a lower section to his hive, about four inches deep, with two boards inside, like the roof of a house, to discharge the worms, &c.; but as these boards would interfere with close inspection, they are objectionable. Several other variations of inclined bottom-boards and suspended hives have been contrived, to obtain a patent, but the objections offered will apply to most of them. JI shall not weary the reader by noticing in detail every hive that has been patented; I thinkif I notice the principles of each kind, it will test his patience sufficiently. HIVES. 21 JONES’ PATENT. Jones’ dividing hive was probably suggested by this instinctive principle of the bee, viz.: when a stock by any accident loses its queen, and the combs contain eggs or very young larvae, they will rear another. Now if a hive is constructed so as to divide the brood- combs, it would seem quite certain that the half with- out a queen, would raise one; and we could multiply our stocks without swarms, the trouble of hiving, and risk of their going to the woods, &c. AN EXPERIMENT. Several years ago, I thought I had obtained a prin- ciple that would revolutionize the whole system of bee management. In 1840 I constructed such hives, and put in the bees to test by actual experiment, the utility of what seemed so very plausible in theory. It would appear that this principle suggested the same idea to Mr. Jones; perhaps with this difference: I think he did not wait to test the plan thoroughly, be- fore obtaining his patent in ’42. One yender of rights asserted that 63 stocks were made from one in three years; but somehow a great many that obtained the rights, failed in their expectations. From my ex- periments, I think I could guess at some of the rea- sons. Mr. A.—‘ Well, what are the reasons? give us your experience, if you please, I am interested; I had the right for such a hive, and had alot made to order, that cost more money in the end than I shall ever pay again for anything about bees.” 22 HIVES. Do not be too hasty, friend, I think I can instruct you to keep bees on principles in accordance with their nature, which is very simple, so that if you can be induced to try again, we will have the hives cost but little, at any rate. REASONS OF FAILURE IN DIVIDING HIVES. The greatest difficulty with dividing hives, appeared to be here. It must be constructed with a partition or division to keep the combs in each apartment sep- arate; otherwise, we make tearing work in the di- vision. When bees are first put into such hives, un- less the swarm is very large, and honey abundant, one apartment will be filled to the bottom before a commencement is made in the other. Mr. A.—‘ What difference can that make? It is necessary to have the hive full ; if it cannot be all filled at once, why let thern fill part.” The difference is this. The first combs built by a swarm are for brood, and store-combs afterwards, as needed; one apartment will be nearly filled with all brood-combs, and the other with store-combs and honey. Now in the two kinds of cells there is a great difference ; those for breeding are near half an inch in length, while those for storing are sometimes two inches or more; totally unfit for breeding; until the bees cut them off to the proper length, which they will not do, unless compelled for want of room, con- sequently this side of store-combs is but little used for brood. When such hive is divided, the chances are not more than one in four, that this apartment will HIVES, 23 have any young bees of the proper age from which to raise a queen; if not, and the old queen is in the part with the brood-comb, where she will be ninety-nine times in a hundred, one half of the hive’ is lost for want of a queen. Mr, A.—“ Ah! I think I now understand -how I lost one-half of nearly every hive I divided. I also lost some of them in the winter; there was plenty of bees as well as honey; can you tell the cause of this?” I will guess that they starved. Mr. A.—‘ Starved! why I said there was plenty of honey.” x understood it, but nevertheless feel quite sure. Mr. A.—“TI would like to see that made plain; I can’t understand how they could starve when there was honey |” CAUSE OF STARVING IN SUCH HIVES, I said one apartment would be filled with brood- combs; this will be occupied, at least partially, with brood as long as the yield of honey lasts ; consequent- ly, there will be but little room for storing here, but the other side may be full throughout. The bees will take up their winter quarters among the brood-combs. Now suppose the honey in this apartment is all ex- hausted during a severe turn of cold weather, what can the bees do? If one should leave the mass and go among the frosty combs for a supply, its fate would be as certain as starvation. Without frequent inter vals of warm weather to melt all frost on the combs, 24 HIVES. and allow the bees to go into the other apartment for honey, they must starve. The cost of construction is another objection to this hive, as the labor bestowed on one is more than would. finish two, that would be much better. ADVANTAGES OF THE CHANGEABLE HIVE CONSIDERED, The value of changeable hives is based upon the fol- lowing principle:—Hach young bee when it first hatches from the egg, is neither more nor less than a worm; when it receives the necessary food, the bees seal it over ; it will then spin a cocoon, or line its cell with a coating of silk, less in thickness than the thin- nest paper; this remains after the bee leaves it. It is evident, therefore, that after a few hundreds have been reared in a cell, and each one has left its cocoon, that such cell must be somewhat diminished, although the thickness of a dozen cocoons could not be measured ; and this old cell needs removing, that the bees may replace it with a new one. But how shall it be done? This is a feat for the display of ingenuity. A common man might go about it in a very sensible, simple man- ner, might possibly turn the hive over, and cut out the old combs when necessary, without knowing perhaps that the patent-vender could sell a receipt to do the thing scientifically, the benefit of which would be many times on the principle of a surgeon cutting off your head, to get a good chance to tie a small artery accord- ing to system ; or would show you a roundabout way of half a dozen miles to accomplish what the same num- ber of rods would do. Had we not ocular demonstra- HIVES. 25 tion of the fact, we could not suppose so many varia- tions for the same end could be invented. But if we reward ingenuity, it will be stimulated to great exer- tions. Perhapsif we describe the merits of one or two of this class, the utility of this principle may be com- prehended. VARIATION OF THESE HIVES. First, then, the sectional hive of various patterns has been patented; it consists generally of about three boxes, one above another; the top of each has one large hole, or several small ones, or cross-bars, about an inch wide, and half an inch apart; these holes or spaces allowing the bees to pass from one box to the other. When all are full, the upper one is removed, and an empty one put under the bottom; in this way all are changed, and the combs renewed in three years; very easily and quietly done. ‘This is as far as a pa- tent-vender wishes the subject investigated ; and some of his customers have not gone beyond this point. As an offset for these advantages, we will first look at the cost of such hive. EXPENSE IN CONSTRUCTING CHANGEABLE HIVES. It is as much work to construct each separate sec- tion, as a commom hive; consequently, it is three times the expense to begin with. It is objectionable for wintering bees, on the same principle as the divid- , ing hive. I object to it on another point: our surplus honey will never be. pure, as each section must be used for breeding, and every cell so used, will contain cocoons corresponding to the number of bees raised. 2 26 HIVES. SURPLUS HONEY WILL CONTAIN BEE-BREAD. Also pollen, or bee-bread, ig always stored in the vicinity of the young brood; some of this will remain mixed with the honey, to please the palate with its ea- quisite flavor. The majority will probably prefer all surplus honey stored in pure comb, where it will be with proper management. I will here give a full description of a hive on this principle, as I have the description from one of its advo- cates, in the Dollar Newspaper, Philadelphia: called Cutting’s Patent Changeable Hive. DESCRIPTION OF CUTTING’S CHANGEABLE HIVE. “The size of the changeable hive most used in this section, has an outside shell, made of inch boards, about two feet high and sixteen and a half inches square, with a door hung in the rear. On the inside are three boxes or drawers, which will hold about one thousand cubic inches each, and when filled with honey, usually weigh about thirty-five pounds, which is a sufficient amount of honey to winter a large swarm. The sides of these drawers are made of boards, about half an’ inch thick; the tops and bot- toms of the lower drawers and ends of the upper drawers should be three-fourths of an inch, and the drawers should be fourteen inches high, fourteen inches from front to rear, and six and three-fourths inches wide. Two of these drawers stand side by. side, with the third placed flatwise upon the two, with a free communication from one drawer to another, by means of thirty- three-fourth inch holes on the HIVES. 27 side of each drawer, and twenty-four in the bottom of the upper drawer, and holes in the top and bottom of the lower drawers, to correspond, and slides to cut off the communication when occasion may require. Thus we see our hive may be one hive, with communication sufficiently free throughout, or we may have three hives combined. The drawers have tubes made in them, (for the bees to pass and repass), which are made to go through the front side of the hive. The" back- side of the drawers are doors, with glass set in them. These drawers set up from the bottom of the hive, and rest on pieces of wood, closely fitted in such a way, as to make a space under the drawers for the dirt, dead bees, and water, which. collect in the bottom of hives in winter; between the drawers and the out- side is an air space of about one-third of an inch. Titese hives, when well made and painted, will last many years, and those doing much in the business will find it an advantage to have a few extra drawers. Having given you some idea of the construction of the changeable hive, I will proceed ‘to notice some of the most important reasons why I prefer this hive to any Ihave yet seen. First because the hive, being constructed upon the changeable principle, so that by taking out a full drawer, and placing an empty one in its stead, our comb is always kept new, wherefore, the size of the bee is preserved, and kept in a more healthy, or prospérous state, or condition, than when obliged to remain and continue to breed, in the old comb, when the cells have become small:: Secondly, because small, late swarms may be easily united. 28 HIVES. Thirdly, because large swarms may be easily divided. Fourthly, because however late a swarm may come off, it may be easily supplied with honey for the winter, by taking from a full hive a surplus drawer, and placing it in the hive of the late swarm. Fifthly, because a column of air between the drawers’and the outside of the hive is a non-conductor of both heat and cold, preventing the melting of the comb, and se- curing the bees against frost and cold.” . Now here is a full description of perhaps as good a hive as any of its class; it is given for the benefit of those who wish to go miles instead of rods; they may know the road, especially as they can have the privi- lege by paying for it: for myself, I had rather be ex- cused,—why, reading the description has nearly ex- hausted my patience ; what should I do if I attempted to make one? | FIRST OBJECTION, COST OF CONSTUCTION. The first obstacle in the way (after the right is ob- tained) is the construction. Let’s see; we want inch boards to make the shell, three-quarter inch boards for the tops and bottoms of drawers, half inch for sides, hinges to hang a door, glass for back of drawers, tubes for the egress of the bees, and slides to cut off communication. It will be necessary to get a me- chanic, and a workman too. Those 108 holes that must be bored, must match, or it is of no use to make them. But few farmers would have the tools requi- site, a still less number the skill and patience to do it. What the cost might be by the time a hive was ready HIVES. 29 to receive the bees, I could not say; but guess it might be some three or four dollars. HIVES CAN BE MADE WITH LESS EXPENSE. The one I shall recommend, without paint, will not cost, or need not, over 374 cents, with cover, etc. Now, if we wish hives for ornament, it is well enough to expend something for the purpose; but it is well not to refine too much, as there are limits which, if passed, will render it unfit for bees. Therefore, when profit is an object, the extra expense will or ought to be made up by the bees, in return for an expensive domicil. But will they doit? The merits of the one under consideration are fully given. “ First, by tak- ing out a full drawer and putting in an empty one in its stead, the combs are.always kept new, and cells of full size.” Now this fear of bees becoming dwarfs in consequence of being reared in cells too small, has done more mischief among the bees, and their owners’ pockets, than if the fact had never been thought, or heard of. OLD BREEDING CELLS WILL LAST A LONG TIME. These old cells do not need renewing half as often as has been represented. It is the interest of these patent-venders to sell rights; this interest either blinds their eyes as to facts, or lulls the internal moni- tor of right, while acquisitiveness is gratified. The same cells can be used for breeding six or cight years, perhaps longer, and no one can tell the difference by the size of the bees; I have two stocks now in their 80 HIVES. tenth year without renewal of comb. A neighbor of mine kept a stock twelve years in the same combs; it proved as prosperous as any. I have heard of their lasting twenty, and am inclined to believe it. CELLS LARGER THAN NECESSARY AT FIRST. The bees seem to make a provision for this emer- | gency, the sheets of comb are farther apart than actually necessary at first, the diameter of the cell is also a little larger than the size of the young bee requires. Of this we are certain—a great many young bees can be rais- ed in a cell, and not be diminished in size, sufficient to be detected. The bottom fills up faster than at the sides, and as they do so the bees add a little to the length, until the ends of these cells on two parallel . combs approximate too close to allow the bees to pass freely ; before which time it is unnecessary to remove comb for being old. EXPENSE OF RENEWING COMBS. One important item should be considered in this matter, by those who are so eager for new combs, It is doubtful whether one in 500 ever thought of the expense of renewing comb. I find it estimated by one writer,* that twenty-five lbs. of honey was consumed in elaborating about half Ib. wax. This without doubt is an over estimate, but no one will deny that some is used. I am satisfied of this much, from actual experience, that every time the bees have to renew their brood-combs in a hive, they would make from ten to twenty-five lbs. in boxes, hence I infer that * See Appendix of Cottage Bee-keeper, page 118. HIVES, 81 BEST TO USE OLD COMBS AS LONG AS THEY WILL ANSWER. their time can be: more profitably iia than: in constructing brood-combs every year. I would also suggest that when combs have been once used for breeding it is the best use they can be applied to, after that, as the cocoons render it unfit for much else than a little wax. DRIVING AND PRUNING WHEN NECESSARY. But when the combs do actually need removing, I prefer the following method of pruning, to driving the. bees out entirely, as has been recommended. It can. be done in about an hour. As we are comparing the . merits of different methods of getting rid of old combs, I shall give mine here, notwithstanding it may seem a little out of place. The best time isa little before aoe The first movement is to blow under the hive some tobacco smoke (the best means of charming them J ever found); the bees, deprived of all disposition to sting, retreat up among the combs to get away from the smoke; now ° raise the hive from the stand and carefully turn it bottom upwards, avoiding any jar, as some of the bees that were in the top when the smoke was introduced, and did not get'a taste, will now come to the bottom to ascertain the cause of the disturbance; these should receive a share, and they will immediately return to the top, perfectly satisfied. When so many bees are in the hive, as to be in the way in pruning, (which if there is not it is not-worth it,) get’ an’ empty hive the size of the old one, and sét it over, stopping the holes; 39 HIVES. now strike the lower hive with a hammer or stick, lightly and rapidly, five or ten minutes, when nearly all the bees will be in the upper hive, and set that on the stand; only a few bees will be in the way; these I will warrant not to sting, unless you pinch or get them fast. Should diseased brood, or anything make it necessary to transfer all the bees permanently, you can now set over another hive or box, and beat the lower hive again, when another portion will ascend ; jar these out in front of the first, and they will imme- diately enter; continue the process till all are out. But for pruning a few bees will not be much in the way, and you may proceed as follows: CA | | TOOLS FOR 'CUTTING OUT COMB, The broad one is very readily made from a piece of an old scythe, about twenty inches long, by any blacksmith, by simply taking off the back, and forming a shank for a handle at the heel; the end should be ground like a carpenter’s chisel. This is for cutting down the sides of the hive; the bevel will keep it close the whole length, when you wish to remove all the combs—it being square instead of rounded, no difficulty will be found in guiding it—it is not thick enough to mash any combs by crowd- ing them. The other tool is for cutting off combs at the top or any other place. It is merely a rod of steel three-eighths of an inch diameter, about two feet long, with a thin blade at right angles, one and a half inches long, and a quarter inch wide, both edges sharp, upper side bevelled, bottom flat, &c. You will find these tools very convenient; be sure and get them by all means; the cost cannot be compared to the advantage. : With the tools just described, you can now re HIVES, 88 move the brood-combs from the centre of the hive. The combs near the top and outside are used but little for breeding, and are generally filled with honey; these should be left as a good start for refilling, but take out all that is necessary, while you are about it; then reverse the hives, putting the one containing the bees under the other; by the next morning all are up; now put it on the stand, and this job is done without one cent extra expense for a patent to help you, and the bees are much better off for the honey left, which has to be taken away with all patent plans that I have seen, and this, as has been remarked, is not worth much, occupied as it is with a few cocoons and bee- bread. It is worth much more to the bees, and they will give us pure comb and honey for it. USE OF TOBACCO SMOKE. “T would not do it for fifty dollars, the bees would sting me to death.” Stop a moment, if you never tried the efficacy of tobacco smoke, you know nothing of a powerful agent; this is the grand secret of suc- cess; without it, I admit it would be somewhat haz- ardous; but with it, I have done it time after time without receiving a single sting, and no protection whatever, for either hands or face. But is there no difficulty with our sectional or changeable hive, when this feat is to be performed? The combs will be made in the two drawers similar to the dividing hive, brood-combs in one side, and store-combs in the other. We wish to remove the one with brood-combs of course, (as that is the one where Q* 84 HIVES. the combs are thick and bad, &.) Where will the queen be?, With the brood-comb, where her duty is most likely to. be; well, this.is. the one we want, and we take it out. How is she to get back? She must go back, or we have three chances in four of losing the stock; but her majesty will remain perfectly easy, as well as some of the workers, wherever you ae the drawer. FURTHER OBJECTIONS TO A SECTIONAL HIVE. I can see no other way but to break the box, look her up, and help the helpless thing home, (the chances of being stung may be here too.) Now, for a time at least, they must use the other drawer for breeding, where most of the cells are unfit. There is altogether too great a proportion of drone-cells; these, as well as the other size, will nearly all be much too long, and will have to be cut off to the proper length, a waste of wax as well as labor. Another thing might be set down per disadvantage of Mr. Cutting’s hive; the job of getting a swarm into such hive, at first, I fancy would not be desirable to many. Now, whenwe strike the balance, putting expense, difficulties, and perplexi- ties on one side, and simplicity and economy on the other, it appears like a “great cry for little wool.” But stop a moment, four other advantages are enu- merated in its favor: second, third, and fourth are bor- rowed from the common hive, or are all available here when required. But fifthly, allows a “column of air between the drawers and outside of the hive, is a non- eondurtor of heat and cold,” &. This is an advantage HIVES. 35 not possessed by the common hive; neither does the common hive offer such advantages to the moth, by affording such snug quarters for worms to spin their cocoons, when they cannot be destroyed without con- siderable trouble. NON-SWARMERS. Here I will endeavor to be brief; I feel anxious to get through with this disagreeable part, where every word I say will clash with somebody’s in- terest or prejudice. The merits of this hive are to obtain surplus honey with but, little trouble, which often succeeds in satisfying people of its utility. The principal objection is found on the score of profit. Suppose we start with one, call it worth five dollars in the beginning, at the end of ten years it is worth no more, very likely not as much, (the chances of its failing, short of that time, we will not take into the account;) we might get annually, say five. dollars worth of surplus honey, amounting to fifty dollars. CONTRAST OF PROFIT. The swarming hive, we supposé, will throw off one swarm annually, and make us one dollar’s worth of surplus honey, (we will not reckon that yielded by the first swarm, which is often more than that from the _ old stocks,) about one third of the average in good seasons. The second year there will be two to do the same ; take this rate for ten years, we have 512 stocks, either of them worth as much as the non-swarmer, and about a thousand dollars worth of surplus honey. 86 : HIVES. Call these stocks worth five dollars each, which makes $2560, all added together will make the snug little sum of about $3500, against $55. It is not to be ex- pected that any of us will realize profits to this ex- tent, butit is a forcible illustration of the advantages of the swarming hive over the non-swarmer. PRINCIPLE OF SWARMING NOT UNDERSTOOD, But many of these non-swarmers, ’tis said, can be changed to swarmers to suit the convenience of the apiarian—Colton’s is one. Itis asserted that it can be made toswarm within two days at any time, merely by taking off the six boxes or drawers that are very ingeniously attached; as this contracts the room, the bees are forced out. Now I will candidly confess that I could never get this thing to work atall. Of this I am quite positive, that he (Mr. Colton) is either ignor- ant of the necessary and regular preparations that bees make before swarming, or supposes others are. Mr. Weeks has advocated the same principle: he says, “There is no queen in any stage of existence, in the old stock, immediately after the first swarm leaves it.” I have examined this matter till I am satisfied I risk but little in the bold assertion, that not one stock in fifty will cast a swarm short of a week after commenc- ing preparations. This opinion will be adopted by whoever will take the trouble to investigate for them- selves. (The chapter on swarming will give the ne- cessary instructions for examining this point, if you wish.) ; HIVES. . 87 NOT TO BE DEPENDED UPON. Further, these non-swarmers are not always to be depended upon as such. They will sometimes throw off swarms when there is abundant room in the hive as well as in the boxes. HIVES NOT ALWAYS FULL BEFORE SWARMING. I know Weeks, Colton, Miner and others, tell us the hive must be full before we need expect a swarm; but experience is against them. Bees do sometimes cast a swarm before filling the hive. From close observa- tion, I find when a hive is very large, say 4000 cubic inches, and. is filled with comb, the first season, that such seldom swarm except in very good years. SIZE OF HIVES NEEDED. But if such hive is only half full, or 2000 inches, it is very common for them to swarm without adding any new comb; proving very conclusively that a hive that size, is sufficient for all their wants in the breed- ing season. When about 1200 inches only had been filled the first year, I have known them to add combs until they had filled about 1800, and then cast a swarm, proving also that a little less than 2000 will do for'breeding. I have tested the principle of giving room to prevent swarming, a little further. AN EXPERIMENT. In the spring of ’47, I placed under five full hives, containing 2000 solid or cubic inches, as many empty ones the same size without the top. I had a swarm 88 HIVES. from each; but two had added any new comb, and these but little. If these hives had been filled to. the bottom with comb in the spring, it is very doubtful whether either of them would have swarmed. The only place we can put a good stock and not expect it to swarm in good seasons, is inside a building, where it is perfectly dark, and even here a few have been known to do it. If we could manage to get a very large hive filled with combs, it would perhaps be as good a preventive as any. All the bees that could be reared in one season, would have sufficient room in the combs ready made for their labors, and there would be no necessity for their emigration. ‘But what be- comes of all the bees raised in the course of several years?” To this question I shall not probably be able to give a satisfactory answer at present. BEES DO NOT INCREASE, IF FULL, AFTER THE FIRST YEAR, IN SAME HIVE. I only will notice the fact, that the bees somehow disappear, and there is no more at the end of five years than at the end of one. A stock of bees may contain 6000 the first of May, and raise 20,000 in the course of the year; by the first of the next May, as a general thing, not one more will be found, even when no swarm had issued. GILLMORE’S SYSTEM DOUBTED. Now this fact is not known by a recent patentee from the State of Maine, (else he supposes others do not,) as he recommends placing bees in a house, and HIVES. 89 empty hives in connection with the one containing bees, ‘and in a few years all will be full. He has discovered a mixture to feed bees, (to be noticed: hereafter); this may account for an untsual quantity being stored: by an ordinary sized family. He said another thing, that is, each of these added hives would contain a queen] This would seem to explain away the first difficulty of the continued increase of bees, and so it would if it did not get into another equally erroneous; one error never madé another true. This idea of bees raising a queen, merely because they have a side box to the main hive, is contrary to all my experience, and to the experience of all writers (except himself) that I have consulted. If the principle is correct, why not some- times raise a queen in a box on the top or side for us? I never discovered a single instance, where two perfect queens were quietly about their duties in connection with one hive. The deadly hostility of queens is known to all observing apiarians. Not having the least faith in the principle, I will leave it. UTILITY OF MOTH-PROOF HIVES DOUBTED. As for moth-proof hives, I have but little to say, as T have not the least faith in one of them. When I come to speak of that insect, I will show, I think, con- clusively, that no place where bees are allowed to enter is safe from them. Several other perfect hives might be mentioned; yet I believe that I have noticed the principles of each. Have I not said enough? Such as are not satisfied now would not be if I filled a volume. Our view of 40 HIVES. things is the result of a thousand various causes ; the most powerful is interest, or prejudice. It is said that in Europe, the same ingenuity is dis- played in twisting and torturing the bee, to adapt her natural instinct to unnatural tenements; tenements invented not because the bee needs them, but because this is a means available fora little change. ‘Patent men” have found the people generally too ignorant of apiarian science. But let us hope that their days of prosperity in this line are about numbered. INSTINCTS OF THE BEE ALWAYS THE SAME. Let us fully understand that the nature of the bee, when viewed under any condition, climate, or circum- stance, is the same. Instincts first implanted by the hand of the Creator, have passed through millions of generations, unimpaired, to the present day, and will continue unchanged through all future time, till the last bee passes from the earth. We may, we have, to gratify acquisitiveness, forced them to labor under every disadvantage; yes, we have compelled them to sacrifice their industry, prosperity, and even their lives have been yielded, but never their instincts. We may destroy life, but cannot improve or take from their nature. The laws that govern them are fixed and immutable as the Universe. Spring returns to its annual task; dissolves the frost, warms ‘into life nature’s dormant powers. Flowers with a smile of joy, expand their delicate petals in grateful thanks, while the stamens sustain upon their tapering points the anthers covered with HIVES. 41 the fertilizing pollen and the pistil springs from a cup of liquid nectar, imparting to each passing breeze delicious fragrance, inviting the bee as with a thousand tongues to the sumptuous banquet. She does not need an artificial stimulus from man, as an induce- ment to partake of the feast; without his aid or as- sistance she visits each wasting cup of sweetness, and secures the tiny drop, while the superabundant farina, dislodged from the nodding anthers, covers her body, to be brushed together and kneaded into bread. All she requires at the hands of man, is a suitable store- house for her treasures. In good seasons, her nature will prompt the gathering for. her own use an over supply. This surplus man may appropriate to his own use, without detriment to his bees, providing his management is in accordance with their nature. PROFIT THE OBJECT. To give the bees all necessary advantages, and ob- tain the greatest possible amount of profit, with the least possible expense, has been my study for years. I might keep a few stocks for amusement, even if it was attended with no dollar and cent profit, but the -number would be very smail; I will honestly confess then, that profit is the actuating principle with me. Ihave astrong suspicion that the majority of readers have similar motives. I am sure, then, that all of us with these views, will consider it a pity, when a stock produces five dollars worth of surplus honey, to be obliged to pay three or four of it for patent and other useless fixings. ' 42 HIVES. COMMON HIVE RECOMMENDED. I would not exchange the hive I have used for the last ten years for any patent I ever saw, if furnished gratis, I will guarantee that it affords means to obtain surplus honey, as much in quantity and in any way which fancy may dictate, whether in wood or glass, and what is more than all, it eal cost nothing for the privilege of using. SIZE IMPORTANT. After deciding what kind of hive we want, the next important point is the size. Dr. Bevan, an English author, recommends a size ‘eleven and three- eighths inches square, by nine deep in the clear,” making only about 1200 inches, and so few pounds necessary to winter the bees, that when I read it, I found myself wondering if the English inch and pound were the same as ours. SMALL HIVES MORE LIABLE TO ACCIDENTS At all events, I think it too small for our Yankee bees in any place. We must remember, that the queen needs room for all her eggs, and the bees need space to store their winter provisions; for reasons before given, this should be in one apartment. When this is too small, the consequences will be, their winter supply of food is liable to run out. The swarms from such will be smaller and the stock much more liable to accidents, which soon finish them off. HIVES. 43 APT TO DECEIVE. we i £caa wnagine how one can be deceived by such asmai} hive, and recommend it strongly ; especially if patented. Suppose you locate a large swarm ina hive near the size of Dr. Bevan’s; the bees would occupy nearly all the room with brood-combs; now if you put on boxes, and as soon as filled put on - empty ones, the amount of surplus honey would be great; very satisfactory for the first summer, but in a year or two your little hive is gone. This result will be in proportion as we enlarge our hives, until we arrive at the opposite extreme. UNPROFITABLE IF TOO LARGE, Iftoo large, more honey willbe stored than is requir- ed for their winter use. It is evident a portion might have been taken, if it had been stored in boxes. The ® swarms will not be proportionably large when they do issue, which is seldom—but there is this advantage, they — last a long time, and are but little profit in surplus honey, or swarms. CORRECT SIZE BETWEEN TWO EXTREMES. Between the two extremes, like most other cases, is found the correct place. A hive twelve inches square, each way, inside, has been recommended as the cor- rect size. Here are 1728 cubic inches. This, I think, is sufficient for many places, as the queen probably has all the room necessary for depositing her eggs; and as the swarms are more numerous, and nearly as large 44 HIVES. as from hives much larger; also, there is room for honey sufficient to carry the bees through the winter, at least, in many sections south of 40 degrees latitude, where the winter is somewhat short. SIZE FOR WARM LATITUDES. This size will also do in this latitude (42 degrees,) in some seasons, but not at all in others.* Not one swarm in fifty will consume twenty-five lbs. of honey through the winter, that is, from the last of September to the first of April, (six months). The average loss in that time is about eighteen lbs.; but the critical time is later; about the last of May, or first of June, in many places. LARGER HIVE MORE SAFE FOR LONG WINTERS OR BACKWARD SPRING, * About the first of April they commence collecting pollen and rearing their young; by the middle of May all good stocks will occupy nearly, if not quite all, their brood-combs for that purpose, but litle honey is obtained before fruit blossoms appear; when these are gone, no more of any amount is obtained until clover appears, which is some ten days later. (I am speaking now particularly of this section; I am: aware it is very different in other places, where dif- ferent flowers exist.) Now if this season of fruit flow- * When Mr. Miner wrote his manual recommending this size, 1728 inches, for all situations, it should be remembered he lived on Long Island. Since removing to Oneida County pn this State, either hia own experience or some other cause has changed his views, as he now recommends my size, viz., 2000 inches, HIVES. 45 ers should be accompanied by high winds, or cold rainy weather, but little honey is obtained ; and our bees have a numerous brood on hand that must be fed. In this emergency, if no honey is on hand of the previous year, a famine ensues; they destroy their drones, perhaps sonie of their brood, and for aught I know put the old bees on short allowance. This I do know, that the whole family has actually starved at this season; sometimes in small hives. This of course depends on the season; when favorable, nothing of the kind occurs. Prudence therefore dictates the neces- sity of a provision for this emergency, by making the hive a little larger for northern ‘latitudes, as a little more honey will be stored to take them through this critical period. From a series of experiments closely observed. 2,000 IncHES SAFE FOR THIS SECTION, I am satisfied that 2,000 inches in the clear, is the proper size for safety in this section, and consequent- ly, profit. Onan average, swarms from this size are as large as any. The dimensions should be uniform in all cases, whatever size is decided on. It is folly to accommo- date each swarm with a hive corresponding in size; a very small family this year, may be very large next, and avery large one, very small, &. A queen be- longing to a small swarm will be capable of depositing as many eggs, as another belonging to a barrel full. A small family able to get through the winter and spring, may be expected by another year to be as numerous as any. 46 HIVES. KIND OF WOOD, WIDTH OF BOARD, ETC. Of the kinds of wood for hives, pine is preferable, still other kinds will do; I have no faith in bees liking one kind better than another, and less likely to leave on that account. Hemlock is cheaper, and used to a great extent; when perfectly sound is as good as any- thing, but is very liable to split, even after the bees have been in themsome time. It should be used only when better wood cannot be obtained. Bass wood when -used for hives should always be painted, and then will be very liable to warp from the moisture arising from the bees inside. When not painted outside, and allowed to get wet, if only for a few hours, so much moisture is absorbed that it will bend outward, and cleave from the combs and crack them. A few days of dry weath- er will relieve the outside of water, and the inside kept moist by the bees, the bending will be reversed, and the combs pressed inward, keeping the bees fixing that which will not “stay fixed.” Perhaps there is wood as suitable or better than pine, but it is not as common. Boards should be selected, if possible, that will be the proper width to make the hive about square, of the right size. Say twelve inches square, inside, by fourteen deep. I prefer this shape to any other, yet SHAPE OF NO CONSEQUENCE, it is not all important. I have had some ten inches square by twenty in length; they were awkward look- ing, but that was all, T could discover no difference in their prosperity. Also, I have had them twelve inches deep by thirteen square, with the same result, Hence, HIVES. 47 if we avoid extremes, and give the required room, the shape can make but little difference. It has been recommended to plane the boards for hives, ‘inside and out;” but bees, when first put into such hive, find much difficulty in holding fast until they get their combs started, hence this trouble is worse than useless, DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HIVES, If hives are not desired of the cheapest possible con- struction, the outside may be planed and painted; but it is doubtful whether strict economy would demand it. Yet a painted hive appears so much better, that it ought to be done, especially as the paint adds al- most enough to its durability to pay the expense. The color may be whatever fancy dictates; the moth will not probably be attracted by one color more than another. White is affected the least by the sun in hot weather. Lime is put on as white-wash, annual- ly, by many, as a protection against insects. - When hives are not painted, the grain should never be crosswise, having the width of boards form the height; not that the bees would have any dislike to such, but nails will not hold firmly, they draw out in afew years. The size, shape, materials, and manner of putting together, are now sufficiently understood, for what I want. Sticks half an-inch in diameter, should cross each way through the centre, to help sup- port the combs. A ‘hole about an inch diameter in the front side, half way to the top, ‘is a great convenience for the bees to enter when coming home heavy laden. 48 HIVES. It now remains to make the top, cover, and boxes, {the bottom-board will be described in another chap- ter.). The tops should be all alike; boards fifteen inches square are just the right size; three-fourths of an inch is the best thickness, (inch will do;) plane the upper side, rabbet out around the edge of the upper side one inch wide, and three-eighths deep; this will leave the top inside the rabbeting, just thirteen inches. SIZE OF CAP AND BOXES, A box for a cover or cap, that size inside, will fit any hive. The height of this box should be seven inches, Of course other sizes will do, but it is best to commence with one that we can adhere to uniformly, and no vexations arise by covers not fitting exactly, &. Ithink this size is as near correct as we shall be likely to get; we want all the room in the boxes that the ma- jority of our stocks demand for storing in a yield of honey,* at the same time not be necessitated to give too much of the room in the height. They will com- mence work in a box five inches high, much sooner than one seven or eight. To give the requisite room, and have the boxes less than five inches high, would require more than thirteen inches on the top, this would make the hive too much out of shape; it would appear top-heavy. MINER’S HIVE. Miner’s Equilateral Hive has a cap somewhat small- er than this in diameter ; consequently, if we have the * Ihave added a side box occasionally, but it has seldom paid me for the trouble. HIVES, 49 requisite room, it must be in its height. But by making the cap of his a little larger, and a few trifling alterations, it would do very well for a patent. And if any one must have a patent hive, my advice is to get that; it costs but two dollars for the right of using, and is nearer what we want for bees, than any I ever saw. I prefer rabbeting around the edge of the top, in- stead of nailing on a thin board the size of the inside of the cover, with room for a slide under it; it affords too nice a place for worms to spin their cocoons. Also, without the rabbeting water may get under the cap, and pass along the top till a hole lets it among the bees. As for slides, I do not approve of them at all; in shut- ting off communication, it is almost certain te crush a few bees. This makes them irritable for a week; they are unnecessary for me, at least. We will now finish the hive. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING HOLES. After the top is got out as directed, strike a line through the centre, three and a quarter inches from this, make another on each side, now measure on one -of the last lines, two and a half inches for the first hole, two inches for the next, and so on till five are . marked on this, and the same number on the other side, ten in all; these holes should be about an inch diameter, a pattern three and a quarter inches wide, and thirteen in length, with places for holes marked on it, will save time when many are made. When, this top is nailed on, the hive is ready. A less num- ber of holes is often used, and one is thought by some to be sufficient ; experience has satisfied me that the 3 50 HIVES. more room bees have to enter boxes, the less reluc- tance is manifested in commencing their work in them; but here is another extreme to be avoided: when the holes are much larger, or more of them, or even one very large one, the queen is very apt to go into the boxes and deposit her eggs, which renders the comb tough, dark, &c., also bee-bread is stored near the brood. Dr. Bevan’s and Miner’s cross-bar hives are objectionable on this account, they offer too free access to the boxes; we want all the room that will answer, and no more. : A SUGGESTION. . Mr. Miner’s cross-bar hive is intended to make the bees construct all straight combs, and probably will do it. But the disadvantage of bee;bread and brood in the boxes will not be made up by straight combs. For the benefit of those who have been made to be- lieve straight combs all important, and perhaps have purchased the right to make the hive, and had some constructed, and have found bee-bread in their surplus honey, I would suggest an improvement, (that is, if itis thought the straight combs will pay. If you have not the right for the cross-bar hive, and you wish to use it, I would say, buy the right, and remove all grounds of complaint with him.) Put in the bars and hive your bees as he directs. After all the combs are started, instead of setting the open bottom boxes (which are also unsuitable for sending to market) di- rectly on the bars as he recommends, take off the cloth, and with screws fasten on a top with ten holes, HIVES. 51 that I have just described; and then you will have the straight combs, and surplus honey in the boxes pure. GLASS, BOXES PREFERRED. Having told how I make a hive, I will now give spme reasons for preferring a particular kind of boxes. I have taken great quantities of honey to market, put up in every style, such as tumblers, glass jars, glass boxes, wooden boxes with glass ends, and boxes all wood. I have found the square glass boxes the most profitable ; the honey in such appears to the best possible advantage, so much so, that the majority of purchasers prefer paying for the box at the same rate as the honey, than the wood box, and have the tare .allowed. This rate of selling boxes always pays the cost, while we get nothing for the wood. Another advantage in this kind of boxes is, while being filled, the progress can be watched, and the time they are finished known precisely, when they should be taken off, as every day they remain after that, soils the purity of the combs. é GLASS BOXES—-HOW MADE, Directions for making.—Select half-inch boards of pine or other soft light wood, cut the length twelve and three-quarters inches, width six and three-eighths inches, dress down the thickness to three-eighths or less, two pieces for a box, top and bottom, in the bot- tom bore five holes throughout the centre to match with those in the top of the hive, (the pattern used 52 HIVES. in marking the top of hives is just the one to mark these). Next, get out the corner posts, five-eighths of an inch square, and five inches in length; with a saw, thick enough to fit the glass, cut a channel length- wise on two sides, one-fourth of an inch deep, one- eighth from the corner, for the glass. A small lath nail through each corner of the bottom into the posts will hold them; it is now ready for the glass—10 X 12 is the right size to get—have them cut through the’ centre the longest way for the sides, and they are right, and again the other way, five and five-eighths long for the ends. These can now be slipped into the channels of the posts, and the top nailed on like the bottom, and the box is ready. GUIDE-COMBS NECESSARY. It will be founda great advantage, previous to nail-. ing on the top, to stick fast to it some pieces of guide- combs in the direction you wish the bees to work. They are also an inducement for them to commence several days sooner, than if they had to start combs for themselves ;* a piece an inch square will do; it is well to start every comb you want in the box; two inches apart is about the right distance to look. well. ‘To make these pieces hold fast, melt one edge by the fire, or candle, or melt some bees-wax, and dip one edge in that, and apply it before cooling; with a little practice you can make them stick without diffi- culty. For a supply of such combs, save all empty, * Aline of bees-wax made with a guide-plate, or other means, is found to be of but little use, HIVES. 53 clean, white pieces you can, when removing combs from ahive. 7 If you have any way superior to this for making glass boxes, so much the better, make them so by all means: ‘‘ The best way is as good as any.” I give my method to be used only when better isnot convenient. If you sell honey, I think you will find it an advantage to have glass boxes made insome way. Two of this size when full weigh 25 lbs. If preferred, four boxes six and three-eighths inches square, can be used for a hive instead of two; the expense of making is a little more for the same number of Jbs., yet, when it is in market, a few customers will prefer this size. WOOD BOXES, For home consumption, the wood-box will answer equally well for all purposes of obtaining the honey, but will give no chance to watch the progress of the bees, unless a glass is inserted for the purpose, and then. it will need a door to keep it dark, or a cover over the whole like the one for glass ae may be put on. Wood boxes are generally made with open bottom, and set on the top of the hive. A passage for the bees out of the box to the open air is unnecessary, and worse than useless. They like to store their honey as far from the entrance as possible. Unless crowded for room, they will not store much there when Such’ en- trances are made. Whether we intend to consume our surplus honey or not, it is as well to have the hives and covers made in a manner that we can use glass, when we are likely 54 HIVES. to have some to spare. I am not sure, but it would pay to make hives in this way, even if glass boxes were never used; the rabbeting prevents light as well as water from passing under the cover; imagine a box set on a plain board nailed on for a top, without the rabbeting; the warping or bending admits the light and water, especially when hives are out in the wea- ther, (and I shall not recommend any other way of keeping them.) COVER FOR HIVES. I have termed the cap or box a cover; but this should also be covered with a board laid on, if nothing else. A good roof for each hive can be made by fastening two boards together like the roof of a building; let it be about 18 by 24 inches; it being loose, can be changed in accordance with the season ; in spring, let the sun strike the hive; but in hot wea- ther let the longest end project over the south side, &c. You can ornament this hive, if you choose, by mouldings or dentals, under the top, where it projects over the body of the hive, also the cap can have the top projected a little and receive the same addition. JARS AND TUMBLERS—HOW PREPARED, When jars, tumblers, or other vessels, that are all glass, are used, it is absolutely necessary to fasten as many pieces of combs as you wish made, in the top, for a beginning, or fasten a piece of wood there; as they seldom commence building on glass, without a start. Some of you may have seen paraded at our fairs, GLASS HIVES. 55 or in the public parts of some of our cities, hives con- taining tumblers, some of them neatly filled, others empty, and this magic sentence written upon them, not to be filled / Pretending to govern the bees, as the juggler sometimes does his tricks, by mysterious in- cantations! I once encountered an agent of this hum- bug, and modestly suggested to him that I had a coun- ter charm: that I could put a tumbler on his hive and it would be filled if the others were, however much he might forbid it by written charms! He saw at a glance how the matter stood; I was not the customer he wanted, and intimated that the show was only in- tended for the extreme verdancy of most visitors. It no doubt assisted in displaying his profound knowledge in bee management, which he wished to establish, as he had a little work on the subject to sell, also hives, and bees. The reader no doubt will guess as I did, the reason that those tumblers were not filled, was be- cause no combs were put in for a start. PERFECT OBSERVATORY HIVE DESCRIBED, There are many things pertaining to bees that can- not be properly examined and understood, without a glass hive of some sort. Yet a perfect observatory hive containing but one comb, is not a perfect hive for the bees. We can see very well what the bees are doing, but it is not a tenement they would choose if left to themselves. It forces them to labor in an un- natural manner, is unsuitable for wintering bees, and otherwise but little profit. If the satisfaction of wit- nessing some cf their operations more perfectly than / Z GLASS HIVES. in glass hives of another kind will not pay, it is doubtful if we get it. I will describe it as briefly as possible. Two frames or sashes about two and a half feet square, containing glass, are so fastened together as to leave room for only one- comb between them, about an inch and three-fourths apart. A comb of this size will not support itself by the top and edges; hence, it is necessary to put in numerous cross-bars to assist in supporting it. Outside the glass are doors to keep the whole dark, to be opened when we wish to inspect proceedings. Under the bottom is a board or frame, to keep it in an upright position, &. Probably but few will be induced to make one. I will therefore describe another; a hive that I think will pay better. ONE LIKE COMMON HIVE PREFERRED, If we expect to know what bees are doing in ordi- nary hives, we must have one similar in every respect, in size, shape, number of bees, &c. The construction of royal cells will be watched by most observers with the greatest interest; now these are generally on one edge of the combs. The bees leave a space half an inch or more between the edges of the combs and one side of the hive, near half the length of it, appar- ently for no other purpose but to have room for these cells, as the other edges of the same combs are generally attached to the hive at the bottom. WHAT MAY BE SEEN. Now instead of having one piece or pane of glass in the side of several hives, I would recommend GLASS HIVES. 57 having one or more with glass on every side ; because we might have it on three sides, and not the fourth; and this might contain all the queen cells, and we should miss an important sight. ‘There are many other things to be witnessed in such a hive. The ‘queen may be often seen depositing her eggs! We may see the workers detach the scales of wax from their abdomen, and apply them to the combs during the process of construction, see them deposit pollen from their legs, store their honey, feed the queen, each other, their young brood, seal over cells contain- ing brood, honey, &. It is further useful as a guide for putting boxes on other hives, (that is, if it is a good one, which it should be); we can easily ascertain whether our bees are gaining or losing. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING GLASS HIVE. My method of making them is as follows: The top is like those for other hives, fifteen inches square, adapted to boxes and cover. This hive we want to be as profitable as any, giving us surplus honey, and swarms like others. Four posts are then got out, two inches square, and thirteen in length; careshould be taken to have the ends perfectly square. A frame is then to be made, just fourteen inches square outside, for the bottom; the pieces are one inch thick, by two in width, halved together at the zorners. A guage-mark is then made around the ander side of the top, half an inch from the edge, a post is then set inside of each corner of this mark, and thoroughly nailed the bottom is nailed on with the 58 GLASS HIVES. posts even with the outside corners. Four pieces an inch thick, and an inch and a half wide, are fitted be- tween the posts, even with the guage-mark on the top. Sixteen strips, about one quarter by half an inch, are got out, eight to be ten, and eight twelve inches long. A guage-mark one inch from posts, bottom, &c., is the place to nail these strips ; very small nails or tacks will hold them. The panes of glass are to rest against them, which are held in their places by small pieces of tin, or brads. The doors are‘the size of the glass, 10 x12, about three-fourths of an inch thick; these doors are cut a little too short, and the pieces, to pre- vent warping, are nailed on the ends; these are hung to a post on one side, and secured by a button on the other. On two opposite sides inside the posts, half way up, two strips, half an inch by three quarters, are nailed, with holes in them for the cross-sticks; one way is enough if you have guide-combs for a start, like those recommended for boxes, so that the sheets will be at right angles with them ; otherwise, let the sticks cross both ways, about three each way will be needed, as the glass at the edges is not so good a support as wood. The cap can be made of half inch boards; the top to project over like the hive, or let it be a little more than half an inch, it will admit a heavier moulding, which should surround it here, as well as at the top of the hive, or if it is prefered, dentals can be used, and look equally well—when no ornament is wanted, omit it. But painting seems necessary for such hives, to prevent warping, and the swelling of the doors GLASS HIVES. 59 in wet weather; these want to open and shut without rubbing or sticking, otherwise we disturb the bees every time a door is stirred. Putty should not be used to hold the glass, as the bees in the course of a few years will cover it with propolis; it is then neces. sary to take it out, and scrape, clean, and return it, when, if fastened with putty, it would be difficult ; cold weather is the time for this operation. Iam aware -that a hive can be more substantially made than the one here described: but I have endeavored to make: one as cheap as possible, and if properly made, will answer. The cost will be much less than many pa- -tents, and the satisfaction much more, at least, with many. When our hive containsaswarm of bees, and they are thoroughly in operation, we: must not let ‘them pass out at the. bottom on every side, as they are frequently allowed to do from other hives; be- cause, should one come out a little excited-in conse- quence of a slight jar, accidentally given the hive, on opening the door or some other way, and should find our face within a foot of their house, peering in the window among their works, it would be very likely to give us a, gentle hint that it was a mark of low breeding, that we were not wanted there at all, and that it was none of our business what they were doing. To prevent this as far as possible, a bottom-board, somewhat dif- ferent from the common one, is needed. Four posts of chestnut or other lasting wood, about two inches square, are driven into the earth in the form of a square, far enough apart to come under the corners of the bottom-board, (fifteen inches,) and high enough for 60 GLASS HIVES. convenience when looking into the hive. The ends of ‘these posts are to be perfectly level, and to which the bottom is to be nailed fast. As the hive is to sit per- fectly close to the board, a passage must be made through it, as well as means for ventilation in hot weather, without raising the hive for that purpose. It requires a board about fifteen inches square, planed smooth, the endsclamped to prevent warping or split- ting; a portion of the centre is taken out, say six inches by ten, and wire cloth nailed over, four-ounce tacks will hold it, fasten it just enough to keep the bees from getting through; very likely it will want to be taken off occasionally and cleaned from the propo- lis that will be spread over it. It is is easiest done in freezing weather. Take an edge in each hand, and rock the wires a few times out of square, and it will readily crumble and fall out. In warm weather it must be scalded or burnt off. To close this space, a moving slide is fixed in grooves under-side, fastened to the posts or board. The slide is to be moved in ‘accordance with the weather, when cold, close it, when hot, withdraw it, and give the bees as much air as possible, without raising the hive, the whole of such space is as much ventilation as ordinary hives raised an inch. (Wire cloth is needed for other purposes, it is best to pro- cure some, even at considerable trouble and expense.) On the side of the board intended for the front, two inches from the edge of the wire cloth, a passage is cut for the bees, three-eights of an inch wide, by eleven in length. ‘‘But how is the bees to get to oes, 0 GLASS HIVES. 61 tthis place, so inconvenient, something is needed to ‘assist them?’ Certainly, Sir; an alighting board, eleven inches wide, and about two feet long, (not planed), is placed at an angle of forty-five degrees, “between the two front posts of your stand, the upper end passing under the bottom, far enough back ; to be just even with the back-side of the passage for the = ry milli o ma *N THI a ¥ i 62 BREEDING. bees. The bees alight on this board, and walk up into the hive without difficulty. When the bees are at work pretty freely, and a door of this hive is opened, those that are about departing will be very likely to get on the glass, instead of through the opening at the bottom ; seeing the light through the glass, they endea- vor to escape by the nearest route. When so many gather here as to prevent a good view, and you wish to observe further, shut the door a moment and they will leave through their own passage, when you can open your door again, for a short time. After the hive is filled with combs, the number attracted to the. glass on opening a door will be much less. The plate on the preceding page represents a glass hive, cover, and stand. The common hive can be made equally ornamental, if you choose; this kind of stand is unnecessary for them. Iuse such as are recommended on page 188. CHAPTER ITI. BREEDING. IMPERFECTLY UNDERSTOOD. THE time that bees commence raising their young brood is but imperfectly understood by most people. Many persons that have kept them for years, have bestowed so little attention on this point, that they are unable to tell at what time they commence, how they BREEDING. 63 progress, or when they cease. A kind of an idea that one swarm, and occasionally two or three, are reared sometime in June, or fore part of summer, is about the extent of their reflections on the subject. Whether the drones deposit the eggs, or thata portion of the workers are females, and each raise a young ‘one or two, or whether the “king bee” is the chap © for laying eggs, is a matter beyond their ability to an- swer. It is but afew years since, that a correspondent of a Journal of Agriculture denied the existence of a queen bee, giving the best reasons he had, no doubt, that is, he had never seen one. But bee- keepers of this class are so few, it is unnecessary to waste time to convince them; suffice it to say, that a queen exists with every prosperous swarm, and all apiarians with much pretensions to science, acknowledge the fact, also, that she is the mother of the whole family. The period at which they commence depositing eggs probably depends on the strength of the colony, amount of honey on hand, &., and not the time they commence gathering food. GOOD STOCK SELDOM WITHOUT BROOD. I once removed the bees from a hive on the tenth of January, and found brood amounting to about five hundred, sealed over, and others in every stage of growth down to the egg. ' This hive had been in the house, and kept warm; it will doubtless be supposed that being kept warm was the cause; but this is nota solitary instance, A neighbor lost’ a “hive the fourteenth February, in 64 BREEDING. weather cold enough to seal the entrance with ice, and smother the bees. LI assisted to remove the combs, and found young brood in abundance, from the perfect bee, through all stages of growth. This stock had been in the cold all winter. I have further noticed, when sweeping out the litter under the hives early in spring, say the first of March, that young bees would often be found under the best stocks. Hence it ap- pears there is but little time, and perhaps none, when our best stocks have no brood. Yet stocks, when very weak, do not commence till warm weather. It seems that a certain degree of warmth is necessary to perfect the brood, which a small family cannot gen- erate. HOW SMALL STOCKS COMMENCE, The first eggs are deposited in the centre of the cluster of bees, in a small family; it may not be in the centre of the hive in all cases; but the middle of the cluster is the warmest place, wherever located. Here the queen will first commence; a few cells, or a space not larger than a dollar, is first used, those exactly opposite on the same comb are next occupied. If the warmth of the hive will allow, whether mild weather produces it, or the family be large enough to generate that which is artificial, appears to make no difference ; she will then take the next combs exactly corresponding with the first commencement, but not quite as large a place is used as in the firsscomb. The circle of eggs in the first is then enlarged, and more are added in the next, &., continuing to spread to the BREEDING. 65 next combs, keeping the distance to the outside of the circle of eggs, to the centre or place of beginning, about equal on all sides, until they occupy the outside comb. Long before the outside comb is occupied, the first eggs deposited are matured, and the queen will return to the centre and use these cells again, but is not so particular this time to fill so many in such exact order as at first. This is the general process of small or medium sized families. I have removed the bees from such, in all stages of breeding, and always found their proceedings as described. DIFFERENT WITH LARGER ONES. But with very large families, their proceedings are different: as any part of the cluster of bees is warm enough for breeding, there is less necessity for econo- mizing heat, and having all the eggs confined to one small spot, some unoccupied cells will be found among the brood ; a few will contain honey and bee-bread. HOW POLLEN IS STORED IN THE BREEDING SEASON. But in the height of the breeding season, .a circle of cells nearly all bee-bread, an inch or two wide, will border the sheets of comb containing brood. As bee- bread is probably the principal food of the young bee, it is thus very convenient. When pollen is abundant, and the swarm is in prosperous condition, they soon reach the outside sheets of comb with the brood. At this period, when the hive is about full, and tne queen is forced to the outside combs to find a place for her eggs, it is inter- 66 BREEDING, esting to witness operations in a glass hive. I have ‘seen her several times during one day, on the same piece of comb (next the glass). The light has no immediate effect on her ‘ Highness,” as she will quietly continue about her duty, not the least embarrassed by curious eyes at the window. Before depositing an egg, she enters the cell head first, probably to ascer- tain if it is in proper condition to receive it; as a cell part filled with bee-bread or honey is never used. If the area of combs is small, or the family is small, and cannot protect a large space with the necessary heat, she will often deposit two, and sometimes three, in otie cell (the supernumeraries I suppose are removed. by the workers). But under prosperous circumstances, with a hive of suitable size, &c., this emergency is avoided. OPERATION OF LAYING AND THE EGGS DESCRIBED. When a cell is in a condition to receive the egg, on withdrawing her head she immediately curves her abdomen, and inserts it a few seconds. After leaving it, an egg may be seen attached by one end to the bottom; about the sixteenth of an inch in length, slightly curved, very small, nearly uniform the whole length, abruptly rounded at the ends, semi- transparent, and covered with avery thin and ex- tremely delicate coat, often breaking with the slightest touch. : After the egg has been about three days in the cell, a small white worm may be seen coiled in the bottom, surrounded with a milky-like substance, which BREEDING. 67 is its food, without doubt. How this food is prepared, is merely guess-work. The hypothesis of its being. chiefly composed of pollen, I have no objection to; as it is sufficiently proved by the quantities that accu- mulate in hives that lose their queen, and rear no brood (that is, when a requisite number of workers are so left). The workers may be seen entering the cell every few minutes, probably, to supply this food.* TIME FROM THE EGG TO THE PERFECT BEE, In about six days it is sealed over with a convex waxen lid. It is now hidden from our sight for about twelve days, when it bites off the cover, and comes forth a perfect bee. The period from the egg to the perfect bee varies from twenty to twenty-four days; average about twenty-two for workers, twenty-four . for drones. The temperature of the hive will vary some with the atmosphere; it is also governed by the number of bees. A low temperature probably retards the developemnt, while a high one facilitates it: You may have seen accounts of the assiduous atten- tions given to the young bee when it first emerges from the cell: ‘tis said they “lick it all over, feed it with honey,” &c., desperately pleased with their new acquisition. ROUGH TREATMENT OF THE YOUNG BEE, Now, if you expect to see anything of this, you must watch a little closer than I have. I have seen * When the comb in our glass hive is new, and white, these ope- rations can be seen more distinctly than when very old and dark. 68 BREEDING. nundreds when biting their way out. Instead of care or notice, they often receive rather rough treat- ment: the workers, intent on other matters, will sometimes come in contact with one part way out the cell, with force sufficient to almost dislocate its neck; yet they do not stop to see if any harm is done, or beg pardon. The little sufferer, after this rude lesson, scrambles back as soon as possible out of the way; enlarges the prison door a little, and attempts again, with perhaps the same success: a dozen trials are often made before they succeed. When it does actually leave, it seems like a stranger in a multitude, with no friend to counsel, or mother to direct. It wanders about uncared for and unheeded, and rarely finds one sufficiently benevolent to bestow even the necessaries of life; but does sometimes. It is gene- rally forced to learn the important lesson of looking out for itself, the day it leaves the cradle. there is plenty of honey in the hive. Suppose all the honey in the immediate vicinity of the cluster of bees is exhausted, and the combs in every direction from them are covered with frost; if a bee should leave the mass and venture among them for a supply, its fate would be as certain as starvation. And with- out timely mtervention of warmer weather, they must’ perish | OTHER DIFFICULTIES. _ Should they escape starving, there is another diffi- culty often attending them in continued cold weather. T said that small families exhaled but little. Let us see if we can explain the effect. WINTERING BEES. 381 There is not sufficient animal heat generated to ex- hale the aqueous portion of their food. The philoso-. phy that explains why a man in warm blood and in profuse perspiration would throw off or exhale more moisture than in a quiet state, will illustrate this. The bees in these circumstances must retain the water with | the excrementitious part, which soon distends their bodies to the utmost, rendering them unable to endure it long. Their cleanly habits, that ordinarily save the combs from being soiled, is not a sure protection now, and they are compelled to leave the mass very often in the severest weather, to expel this unnatural accu- mulation of freces. It is frequently discharged even before leaving the comb, but most of it at the en- trance; also some scattered on the front side of the hive, and a short distance from it. In a moderately warm day, more bees will issue from a hive in this condition than from others; it appears that a part of them are unable to discharge their burden—their weight prevents their flying—they get down and are lost. When cold weather is too long continued, they cannot wait for warm days to leave, but continue to come out at any time; and not one of such can then return. The cluster inside the hive is thus reduced in numbers till they are unable to generate heat suffi- cient to keep from freezing. With the indications attendant upon such losses, my own observation has made me somewhat familiar, as the following con- versation will illustrate. 832 WINTERING BEES, FURTHER ILLUSTRATIONS. ae A neighbor who wished to purchase some stock, hives in the fall, requested my assistance in selecting them. We applied to a perfect stranger; his bees had passed the previous winter in the open air. I found on looking among them that he had lost some of them from this cause, as the excrement was yet about the entrance of one old weather-beaten hive, that was now occupied by a young swarm, and was about half filled with combs. I saw at once what had been the matter, and felt quite confident that I could give its owner a correct, history of it. “Sir,” said I, “you have been un fortunate with the bees that were in this hive last winter; I think I can give you some particulars re- specting “it.” “Ah, what makes you think so? I would like to” hear you guess; to encourage you, I will admit that - there has been something rather peculiar about it.” “One year ago you considered that a good stock- | hive; it was well filled with honey, a good family of bees, and two or three years old or more. You had as much confidence in its wintering as any other; but during the cold weather, somehow, the bees unac- countably disappeared, leaving but a very few, and they were found frozen to death. You discovered it towards spring, on awarm day. When you removed the combs, you probably noticed a great many spots of excrement deposited on them, as well as on the sides of the hive, particularly near the entrance. Also one-half or more of the breeding cells contained WINTERING BEES. 838 dead brood, in a putrid state; and this summer you have used the old hive for a new swarm.” “You are right, sir, in every particular. Now, I would like to know what gave you the idea of my losing the bees in that hive? Ican see nothing pé- culiar about that old hive, more than this one,” point-_ ing to another that also contained a new swarm. “You will greatly oblige me if you will point out the signs particularly.” “T will do so with pleasure” (feeling quite willing to give him the impression that I was “ posted up” on this subject, notwithstanding it savored strongly of boasting). I then directed his attention to the entrance in the side of the hive, where the bees had discharged their feces, on the moment they issued, until it was near the eighth of an inch thick, and two or three inches broad; that yet remained, and just begari to cleave off. «“ You see this brown substance around this hole in the hive?” “Yes, it is bee-glue (propolis) ; it is ‘very common on old hives.” ““T think not; if you will examine it closely, you will perceive it is not so hard and bright; it already begins to crumble ; bee-glue is not affected by the weather for years.” “Just so, but what is it, and what has that to do with your guess-work ?” | “Tt is the excrement of the bees. In consequence of & great many cells containing dead. brood, which the bees could not enter, they were unable to pack 334 WINTERING BEES, themselves close enough to secure sufficient animal heat to exhale or drive off the water in their food, it was therefore retained in their bodies till they were distended beyond endurance—they were unable to wait for a warm day—necessity compelled them to issue daily during the coldest weather, discharging their feeces the moment of passing the entrance, and part of them before. They were immediately chilled, end could not return; the quantity left about. this entrance shows that a great many must have come out. That they came out in cold weather is proved by its being left on the hive, heaauee in warm weather they leave the hive for this purpose.” “This is a new idea ; at present it seems to be cor- rect; I will think it over. But how did you know that it was not a new swarm; that it was well filled ?” “When looking under it just now, I saw that combs of a dark color had been attached to the sides near the bottom, below where those are at present; this indi- cates that it had been full, and the dark color that it was not new. Also, a swarm early and large enough to fill such a hive the first season, would not be very likely to be affected by the cold in this way.” “Why not? I think this hive was crowded with bees as much as any of my new swarms.” “T have no doubt they appeared so; but we are very liable to be deceived in such cases, by the dead brood in the combs. A moderate-sized family in such a hive will make more show than some larger ones that have empty cells to creep into, and can pack closer.” WINTERING BEES, 835 “But how did you know about the dead brood ?” “Because old stocks are thus often reduced and lost.” “What were the indications of its being filled with honey ?” “Combs are seldom attached to the side of the hive farther down than they are filled with honey. In this hive the combs had been attached to the bottom, con- sequently must have been full. Another thing, unless the family is very much reduced, the hive is generally well stored, even when diseased.” “Why did you suppose it was near spring before I discovered it?” “T took the chances of guessing. The majority of bee-keepers, you know, are rather careless, and when they have fixed their bees for winter, seldom give them much more attention, till they begin to fly out in the spring.” “But what should I have done had I discovered the bees coming out ?” . “ As it was affected with dead brood, it was but little use to do anything; you would have lost it eventually. But if it had been a stock otherwise healthy, and was affected in this way only because it was a small family, or the severity of the weather, you could have taken it to a warm room, and ‘turned it bottom up; the animal heat would then convert the most of the water contained,in their food. into vapor; that would rise from the hive, and the bees could retain the excrementitious portion without diffi- culty till spring.” 336 WINTERING BEES. “T suppose you must get along without losing many through the winter, if I may judge by your confident. explanations.” “T can assure you I have but little fear on this head. If I can have the privilege of selecting proper stocks, I will engage not to lose one in a hundred.” “How do you manage? I would be glad to obtain a method in which I could feel as perfectly safe as “you appear to.” ‘The first important requisite is to have all good ones to start with. Enough weak families are united together till they are strong, or some other disposition made of them.” I then gave him an outline of my method of wintering, which I can confidently recom- mend to the reader. ACCUMULATION OF FACES DESCRIBED BY SOME WRITERS A& A DISEASE. This accumulation of feeces is considered by many writers as a disease—a kind of dysentery. It is de- scribed as affecting them towards spring, and several remedies are given. Now if what I have been de. scribing is not the dysentery, why I must think I never had a case of it; but I shall still persist in guessing it to be the same, and suppose that inatten- tion with many must be the reason that it is not discovered in cold weather, at the time that it takes place. Some stocks may be badly affected, yet not lost entirely, when moderate weather will stop its progress. When a remedy is applied in the spring, long after the cause ceases to operate, it would be WINTERING BEES. 387 singular if it was not effectual. I have no doubt but some have taken the natural discharge of faeces, that always takes place in spring when the bees leave the hive, for a disease. Others, when looking for a cause for diseased brood, and found the combs and hive somewhat besmeared, have assigned this as sufficient; but according to my view, have reversed it, giving the effect before the cause. THE AUTHOR’S REMEDY. For a time, I supposed that this moisture on the combs gradually mixed with the honey, making it thin, and that the bees eating so much water with their food, would affect them as described. Some ex- periments that followed, induced me to assign cold as the cause, as I always found, when I put them where it was sufficiently warm, that an immediate cure was the result, or at least, it enabled them to retain their feces till set out in the spring. BURYING BEES. Burying bees in the earth below the frost, has been recommended as a superior method of wintering, for small families. I have known it confidently asserted, that they would lose nothing in weight, and no bees would die. I found, in testing it, that a medium quan- tity of honey sufficed, and but very few were lost, per- haps less than by any other method. Yet the combs. were mouldy, and unfit for further use. There was no escape for the. vapor and dampness of the earth, 15 C 838 WINTERING BEES, This did not satisfy me; it only cured ‘one disease by instituting another.” I saved the bees, (and perhaps some honey), but the combs were spoiled. EXPERIMENTS OF THE AUTHOR TO GET RID OF THE FROST. I wished to keep them warm, and save the bees as well as honey, and at the same time, get rid of the moisture. I-found that a large family expelled it much better than small ones; and if all were put to- gether in a close room, the animal heat from a large number combined, would be an advantage to the weak ones, at least,—this proved of some benefit. Yet I found on the sides of a glass hive, that large drops of water would stand for weeks. SUCCESS IN THIS MATTER. The following suggestion then came to my relief. If this hive was bottom up, what would prevent. all this vapor as it arises from the bees from passing off? (It always rises when warm, if permitted.) The hive was inverted ; in a few hours the glass was dry. : This was so perfectly simple, that I wondered I had not thought of it before, and wondered still more that some one of the many intelligent apiarians had never discovered it. I immediately inverted every hive in the room, and kept them in this way till spring; when the combs were perfectly bright, not a particle of mouid to be seen, and was well satisfied with the re- sult of my experiment. Although I was fearful that more bees would leave the hives when inverted, than WINTERING BEES. 839 if right: side up, yet the result showed no difference. I had now tried both methods, and had some means of judging. BEES WHEN IN THE HOUSE SHOULD BE KEPT PERFECTLY DARK. When not kept perfectly dark, a few would leave the hives in either case. I have found it much better to make the room dark to keep the bees in the hive, than to tie over them a thin muslin cloth, as that pre- vents a free passage of the vapor, and a great number of full stocks were not at all satisfied in confinement; and were continually worrying, and biting at the cloth, till they had made several holes through it for passages out. Thus the little good was attended by an evil, asan offset. Even wire cloth put over to confine them, which would be effectual, would not save bees enough to pay expense. I have thus wintered them for the last ten years, and am extremely doubtful if a better way can be found.* For several years I made use of a small bed-room in the house, made. perfectly dark, in which I put about 100 stocks. It was lathed and plastered, and no air admitted, except what might come through the floor. It was single, and laid rather close, though not matched. A ROOM MADE FOR WINTERING BEES. In the fall of 1849 I built a room for this purpose ; the frame was eight by sixteen feet square, and seven high, without any windows. A good coat of plaster gin was so well pleased with my success, especially with small fae milies, that I detailed the most important points i in a communication to the Dollar Newspaper, Philadelphia, published November, 1848. 840 WINTERING BEES. was put on the inside, a space of four inches between the siding and lath was filled-with saw-dust; under the bottom I constructed a passage for the admission of air, from the north side; another over head for its exit, to be closed and opened at pleasure, in moderate weather, to give them fresh air, but closed when cold, and so arranged as to exclude all the light. A partition was extended across near the centre. This was to prevent disturbing the whole by letting’ in light when carrying them out in the spring. By closing the door of this partition, those in one room only need be disturbed at once. MANNER OF STOWING AWAY BEES. Shelves to receive the hives were arranged in tiers one above the other; they were loose, to be taken down and put up at pleasure. Suppose we begin at the back end: the first row is turned directly on the — floor, a shelf is then put across a few inches above., them, and filled, and then another shelf, still above, when we again begin on the floor, and continue thus till the room is full; or if the room is not to be filled, the shelves may be fixed around the sides of the room in two or three courses. This last arrangement will make it very convenient to inspect them at any time through the winter, yet they should be disturbed as little-as possible. The manner of stowing each one is to open the holes in the top, then lay down two square sticks, such as are made by splitting a board, of suit- able length, into pieces about an inch wide. The hive is inverted on these; it gives a free circulation through WINIERING BEES. 841 the hive, and carries off all the moisture as fast as generated, TEMPERATURE OF ROOM. The temperature of such a room will vary accord- ing to the number and strength of the stocks put in; 100 or more would be very sure to keep it above the freezing point at all times. Putting a very few into such a room, and depending on the bees to make it warm enough, would be of doubtful utility. If these means will not keep the proper temperature, proba- bly some other method would be better. All full stocks would do well enough, as they would almost any way. Yet I shall recommend housing them whenever practicable. If the number of stocks is few, let the room be proportionably small.* It is the smallest families that are most trouble: if they are too cold, it may be known by bees leaving the hive in cold weather, and spots of excrement on the combs ; they should then have some additional protection ; close part or all of the holes in the top, cover the open bottom partially or wholly, and confine to the hive as much as possible the animal heat; when these means fail, it may be necessary to take them to a warm room, during the coldest weather. * Asan additional proof that this method of inverting hives in the house for winter is valuable, I would say that Mr. Miner, author of the American Bee-Keeper’s Manual, seems fully to appreciate it, In the fall of 1850, I communicated to him this method ; giving my rea- sons for preferring it to the cold method recommended in his Manual. The trial of one winter, it appears, satisfied him of its superiority, so’ much so that within a year from that time he published an essay re- commending it ; but advised confining the bees with muslin, &c. 842 WINTERING BEES. TOO MUCH HONEY MAY SOMETIMES BE STORED. After the flowers fail, and all the brood has mas tured and left the combs, it sometimes happens that a stock has an opportunity of plundering, and rapidly filling all those cells that had been occupied with brood during the yield of honey, and which then effectually prevents theirstoring in them. This, then, prevents close packing, which is all-important: for warmth. Although a large family, as much care is needed as with the smaller ones. Also such as are affected with diseased brood should receive extra at- tention for the same reason. Some bee-keepers are unwilling to risk the bold measure of inverting the hive, but content themselves by merely opening the holes in the top; this is better than no ventilation, but not so effectual, as all of the moisture cannot escape. There are some who cannot divest themselves of the idea, that if the hive is turned " over, the bees must also stand on their heads all winter | Rats and mice, when they find their way into such room, are less bold with their mischief than if the hive is in its natural position. MANAGEMENT OF ROOM TOWARDS SPRING. A few warm days will often occur, towards spring, before we can get our bees out. In these cases, a bushel or two of snow or ice pounded up should be’ spread on the floor; it will absorb and carry off as it melts much of the heat, that is now unnecessary, and . will keep them quiet much longer than without it; WINTERING BEES. 343 | (provision for getting rid of this water should be made when putting down the floor.) TIME FOR SETTING OUT BEES, The time for carrying out bees is generally in March, but some seasons later. A warm pleasant day is the best, and one quite cold, better than one only moderately warm. After their long confinement, the light attracts them out at once, (unless very cold air prevents), and if the rays of a warm sun do not keep them active, they will soon be chilled and lost... Some bee-keepers take out their stocks at evening. If we could be always sure of having the next day a fair one, it would probably be the best time; but should it be only moderate, or cloudy, it would be | attended with considerable loss—or if the next day. should be quite cold, but few would leave, and then the only risk would be to get a good day, before one that was just warm enough to make them leave the hive, but not quite enough to enable them to return. NOT TOO MANY STOCKS TAKEN OUT AT ONC#. When too many are taken out at once, the rush from all the hives is so much like a swarm, that it appears to confuse them. Some of the stocks by this means will get more bees than actually belong to them, while others are proportionably short, which is unprofitable, and to equalize them is some trouble; yet it may be done.. Being all wintered in one room, the scent or the means of distinguishing their own 344 WINTERING BEES. family from strangers, becomes so much alike, that they mix together without contention. FAMILIES MAY BE EQUALIZED, By taking advantage of this immediately, or before the scent has again changed, and each hive has some- thing peculiar to ztself, you can change the stands of very weak and very strong families. To prevent, as far as possible, some of these bad effects, I prefer waiting for a fair day to begin, and then not until the day has become sufficiently warm to make.it safe from chill. SNOW NEED NOT ALWAYS PREVENT CARRYING OUT BEES. Iam not particular about the snow being gone—if it has only lain long enough to have melted a part of it, it is “ terra firma” to a bee, and answers equally well as the bare earth. When the day is right, about ten o'clock I put out twelve or fifteen, taking care that each hive occupies its old stand, at the same time en- deavoring to take such as will be as far apart as possi- ble; (to make this convenient, they should be carried in in the manner that you wish them to come out.) When the rush from these hives is over, and the ma- jority of the bees has gone back, I set out as many more about twelve o'clock, and when the day con- tinues fair, another lot about two. In the morning, while cool, I move from the back to the first apart- ment, about as many as I wish to set out in a day, except a few at the last. ‘To do this in the middle of the day, while warm, WINTERING BEES. . 845 would induce a good many bees to leave the hive, while the light was admitted, and which would be lost. It will be supposed generally that their long confine- ment makes them thus impatient to get out; but I have frequently returned stocks during a cold turn of weather after they had been out, and always found such equally as anxious to come out, as those which had been confined throughout the winter; without the airings, I have kept them thus confined, for five months, without difficulty! The important requisites are, sufficient warmth and perfect darkness. e DOES NOT ANALOGY PROVE THAT BEES SHOULD BE KEPT WARM IN WINTER ? Opposition to this method of wintering will arise with those who have always thought that bees must be kept cold; ‘the colder the better.” I would sug- gest for their consideration the possibility of some analogy between bees and some of the warm-blooded animals—the horse, ox, and sheep, for instance, that require a constant supply of food, that they may generate as much caloric as is thrown off on the cold’ air. This seems to be regulated by the degree of: cold, else why do they refuse the large quantity of tempting provender in the warm days of spring, and greedily devour it in the pelting storm? The fact is pretty well demonstrated, that the quantity of food needed for the same condition in spring, is much less when protected from the inclemency of the weather, than when exposed to the severe cold. The bee, un- like the wasp, when once penetrated with. frost,. is 15" 846 WINTERING BEES. dead—their temperature must be kept considerably above the freezing point, and to do this, food is required. Now if the bees are governed by the same laws, and cold air carries off more heat than. warm, and their source of renewing it is in the consumption of honey in pro- portion to the degree of cold, common sense would say, keep them warm as possible. Asa certain de- gree of heat is necessary in all stocks, it may take about such a quantity of honey to produce it, and this may explain why a small family requires about the same amount of food as others that are very large. THE NEXT BEST PLACE FOR WINTERING BEES. A dry, warm cellar is the next best place for winter- ing them; the apiarian having one perfectly dark, with room to spare, will find it a very good place, in the absence of a room above ground. If a large number was put in, some means of ventilation should be contrived for warm turns of weather. I know an apiarian, who by my suggestion has wintered from sixty to eighty stocks in this way, for the last six years, with perfect success, not having lost one. Another has wintered thirty with equal safety. As for burying them in the earth, I have not the least doubt, if a dry place should be selected, the hive inverted, and surrounded with hay, straw, or some substance to absorb the moisture, and protected from ‘the rain, at the top of the covering, that perfect suc- cess would attend the experiment. But this is only theory; when I tried the experiment of burying, and had the combs mould, the hives were right side up. WINTERING BEES 347 EVILS OF WINTERING IN THE OPEN A. CONSIDERED. As a great many bee-keepers will find it inconven ient, or be unable to avail themselves of my method of wintering, it will be well enough to see how far the evils of the open air, which we have already glanced at, may be successfully avoided. I am told by those who have tried wintering them in straw hives, _that in this respect they are much safer than those made of boards; probably the straw will absorb the moisture. But as these hives are more trouble to con- struct, and their shape will prevent the use of suitable boxes for surplus honey, this one advantage will hardly balance the loss. They are said also to be more liable to injury from the moth. We want a hive that will unite advantageously as many points as possible. It should be remembered that bees always need air, especially in the cold.* With this in view, we will try to dispose of the vapor or frost.. If the hive is raised sufficient to let it out, it will let in the mice; to pre- vent which, it should be raised only about one-fourth of an inch. The hole in the side should be nearly covered with wire cloth to keep out the mice ; but give a passage for the bees; otherwise. they collect here, en- deavoring to get out, and remain till chilled, and thus perish by hundreds. The >oxes on the top must be removed, but not the cap or cover; the holes all opened, to let the vapor pass up into the chamber ; if this is made with perfectly close joints, so that no air * It is presumed that the inexperienced will soon learn to distin- guish such bees as die from old age or natural causes, from those affected by the cold. 348 WINTERING BEES. escapes, it should be raised a very little; otherwise not. The moisture will condense on the sides and top, when it melts will follow the sides to the bottom, and pass out; the rabbeting around the top of the hive will prevent its getting to the holes, and down among the bees. It will be easily comprehended, that a hole be- tween each two combs at the top, (as mentioned in the subject of putting on the boxes,) will ventilate the hive much better than where there is but one or two, or where there is a row of several, and all are between two combs, BUT LITTLE RISK WITH GOOD STOCKS. All good stocks may be wintered in this way, with but little risk in most situations. Whether in the bleak north-wind, buried in a snow-bank, or situated warm and pleasant, it will make no great difference. The mice cannot enter; the holes give them air, and carry off moisture, &c. But second-rate stocks are not equally safe in cold situations. EFFECT OF KEEPING SECOND-RATE STOCKS OUT OF THE SUN. It has been strongly urged, without regard to the strength of the stock, to keep them all out of the sun; because an occasional warm day would call out the bees, when they get on the snow, and perish; this is a loss, to be sure, but there is such a thing as inducing a greater one by endeavoring to avoid this. I have said in another place that second-rate or poor stocks might occasionally starve, with plenty of stores in the hive, on account of frosty combs. If the hive is kept from. the sun, in the cold, the periods of temperate WINTERING BEES. 849 weather might not occur as often, as the bees would exhaust the honey within their circle or cluster. But onthe contrary, when the sun can strike the hive, it warms up the bees, and melts the frost more frequently. The bees may then go among their stores and obtain a supply, generally, as often as needed. We seldom have a winter without sunny days enough for this purpose; but should such an one occur, stocks of this -class should be brought into a warm room, once in four or five days, for a few hours at a time, to give them a chance to get at the honey. Stocks much below sec- ond-rate cannot be wintered successfully in this cli- mate; the only place for them is the warm room. I ‘have known bees thoroughly covered in a snow-drift, and their owner was at considerable trouble to shovel the snow away, fearing it would smother them, This is unnecessary, when protected from the mice and ven- tilated as just directed; a snow-bank is about as com- fortable a place as they can have, except in the house. When examined a short time after being so covered, the snow for aspace of about four inches on every side of the hive is found melted, and none but quite poor stocks would be likely to suffer with this protec- tion. A little snow around the bottom, without a vent in the side of the hive, might smother them. EFFECTS OF SNOW CONSIDERED. As for bees getting on the snow, I apprehend that not many more are lost there, than on the frozen earth; that is, in the same kind of weather. I have seen them chilled, and lost on the ground by hundreds, when a 350 WINTERING BEES. casual observer would not:have noticed them; whereas, had they been on the snow, at the distance of several rods, every bee would have been conspicuous. Snow is not to be dreaded as much as chilly air.. Suppose a hive stands in the sun throughout the winter, and bees are allowed to leave when they choose, and a por- tion are lost’ on the snow, and that it was possible to number all that were lost by getting chilled, through- out the season, on the bare earth—the proportion (in my opinion) lost on the snow would not be one in twenty. A person that has not closely observed dur- ing damp or chilly weather, in April, May, or even the summer months, has no adequate conception of the number. Yet, I do not wish to be understood _ that it is of no consequence what are lost on the snow, by any means. On the contrary, a great many are lost, that might be saved with proper care. But I would like to impress the fact, that frozen earth is not safe without warm air, any more than snow, when crusted, or a little hard. Even when snow is melting, it is solid footing for a bee; they can and do rise from it, with the same ease as from the earth. Bees that perish on snow in these circumstances, would be likely to be lost if there was none. STOCKS TO BE PROTECTED ON SOME OCCASIONS, The worst time for them to leave the hive is imme- diately after a new snow has fallen, because if they light on it then, it does not sustain their weight ;~and they soon work themselves down out of the rays of. the sun, and perish. Should it clear off pleasant, after WINTERING BEES, 851 a storm of this kind, a little attention will probably be remunerated. Also, when the weather is moder- ately warm, and not sufficiently so to be safe, they should be kept in, whether snow is on the ground or otherwise. For this purpose, a wide board should be set up be- fore the hive to protect it from the sun, at least above the entrance in the side. But if it grows sufficiently warm so that bees leave the hive when so shaded, it is a fair test by which to tell when it will do to let them have a good chance to sally out freely, except in cases of a new snow, when it is aflvisable to confine them to the hive. The hive might be let down on the floor-board, and the wire-cloth cover the passage in the side, and made dark for the present; raising the hive at night again, as before. I have known hundreds of stocks wintered successfully without any such care. being taken, and the bees allowed to come out when- ever they chose to doso. Their subsequent health and prosperity proving that it is not altogether ruin- ous. It has been recommended to enclose the whole live by a large box set over it, and made perfectly dark, with means for ventilation, &. (A snow-bank would answer equally well, if not better.) For large families it would do well enough, as would also other methods. ButI would much rather take the chances of letting them all stand in the sun, and issue as they please, than to have the warmth of the sun entirely excluded from the moderate-sized families. I never knew a whole stock lost by this cause alone.* Yet, ] * Vide other causes of loss, a few pages back. 352 WINTERING BEES. have known a great many starved, merely because the sun was not allowed to melt the frost on the combs, and give them a chance to get at their stores. DO THE BEES EAT MORE WHEN ALLOWED TO COME OUT OCCASION- ALLY IN WINTER ? Besides the loss of bees on the snow when shania in the sun, and taking an airing occasionally, there are some Bconbaniedl bee-keepers who urge this disad- vantage, “that every time bees come out in winter they discharge their excrement, and eat more honey ‘In consequence of the vacant room.” What a ridicu- lous absurdity it would be to apply this principle to the horse, whose health, strength, and vital heat is sustain- ed by the assimilation of food! and the farmer is not to be found who would think of saving his provender by the same means. That bees are supported in cold weather on the same principle is indicated strongly, if not conclusively. Is it-not better Gf what has been said on the saitent of wintering bees is correct) to keep our bees warm and comfortable when practicable, as a means of saving honey? ‘To winter bees in the best manner, sgusdeesbls care is required. Whenever you are disposed to neg- lect them, you should bear in mind that one early swarm is worth two late ones; their condition in spring will often decide this point. Like a team of cattle or horses when well wintered, they are ready for a good season’s work, but when poorly wintered have to recruit a Wong time before they are worth much. SAGACITY OF BEES. 358 CHAPTER XXIII. SAGACITY OF BEES. ARE NOT BEES DIRECTED ALONE BY INSTINCT ? ON this subject I have but little to say, as I have failed to discover anything uncommonly remarkable, separate and distinct in one swarm, that another would not exhibit. I have found one swarm’ guided alone by instinct, doing just what another would un- der the same circumstances. Writers, not contented with the astonishing results of instinct, with their love of the marvellous, must add a good share of reason to their other faculties,—“ an adaptation of means to ends, that reason alone could produce.” It is very true, without close inspection, and comparing the results of different swarms in sim- ilar cases, one might arrive at such conclusion. It is. difficult, as all will admit, “ to tell where instinct ends, and reason begins.” Instances of sagacity, like the following, have been mentioned. ' When the weather is warm, and the heat inside is somewhat oppressive, a number of bees may be seen stationed around the en- trance, vibrating their wings.’ Those inside will turn their heads towards the passage, while those outside will turn theirs the other way. A constant agitation of air is thus created, thereby ventilating the hive more effectually.” All full stocks do this in hot weather. et t WHAT THEY DO WITH PROPOLIS. “A snail had entered the hive and fixed itself against the glass side. The bees, unable to penetrate 854: SAGACITY OF BEES. it with their stings, the.cunning economists fixed it, immovably, by cementing merely the edge of the ori- fice of the shell to the glass with resin, (propolis), and. thus it became a prisoner for life.” Now the instinct that prompts the gathering of propolis in August, and filling every crack, flaw, or inequality about — the hive, would cement the edges of the snail-shell to the glass, and a small stone, block of wood, chip, or any. substance that they are unable to remove, would be fastened with it in the same manner. The edges or. bottom of the hive, when in close proximity to the bottom, is joined to it with this substance. Whatever the obstacle may be, it is pretty sure to receive a coating of this. The stoppers for the holes at the top are held in their places on the same principle; and the unaccountable sagacity that once fastened a little door, might possibly be nothing more than the same instinct. Another principle, I think, will be found to be uni- versal with them, instead of sagacious reasoning. ' Whenever the combs in a hive have been broken, or when combs have been added, as was mentioned in the chapter on fall management, the first duty of the bees appears to be to fasten them as they are; when the edges are near the side of the hive, or two combs in contact, a portion of wax is detached and used for joining them together, or to the side. MENDING: BROKEN COMBS, at Where two combs do not touch, and yet are close ’ BY together, a small bar is constructec from one to the SAGACITY OF BEES. 855. other, preventing any nearer approach, (This may be illustrated by turning the hive a few inches from the perpendicular after being filled with combs in warm weather.) MAKING PASSAGES TO EVERY PART OF THEIR COMBS. Should nearly all the combs in the hive become de- tached from any cause, and lie on the bottom in one “ grand smash of ruin,” their first steps are, as just de- scribed, pillars from one to the other to keep them as they are. Ina few days, in warm weather, they will have made passages by biting away combs where they are in contact, throughout every part of the mass; little columns of wax below, supporting the combs above,—irregular, to be sure, but as wel! as circum- stances admit. Not a single piece can be removed without breaking it from the others, and the whole will be firmly cemented together. A piece of comb filled with honey, and sealed up, may be put in a glass box with the ends of these cells so sealed, touching the glass. The principle of allowing no part of their tenement to be in a situation inaccessible, is soon man- ifested. They immediately bite ‘off the ends of the cells, remove the honey that is in the way, and make a passage next to the glass, leaving a few bars from it to the comb, to steady and keep it inits position. A single sheet of comb lying flat on the bottom-board of a populous swarm is cut away under side, for a pas- sage in every direction, numerous little pillars of wax being left for its support. How any person in the habit of watching their proceedings, with any degree 856 SAGACITY OF BEES. of attention, could come at the conclusion that the bees raised such comb by mechanical means and then put under the props for its support, is somewhat sin- gular. Their efforts united for such a purpose like reasonable beings, I never witnessed, These things, considered as the effect of instinct, are none the less wonderful on that account. I am not sure but the display of wisdom is even greater than if the power of planning their own operations had been given thern. od Ihave mentioned these, to-show that a course of action called forth by the peculiar situation of one family, would be copied by another in a similar emer- gency, without being aware of its ever being done before. Were I engaged in a work of fiction, I might let fancy reign and endeavor to amuse, but this is not the object. Let us endeavor then to be content with truth, and not murmur with its reality. When we take a survey of the astonishing regularity with which they construct their combs without a teacher, and remember that the waxen material is formed in the rings of their body, that for the first time in life, without an experienced leader’s direction, they apply a claw to detach it, that they go forth fo the fields and gather stores unbidden by a tyrant’s mandate, and throughout the whole cycle of their operations, one law and power governs. Whoever would seek- mind as the directing power, must look beyond the censorium of the bee for the source of all we behold. in them! STRAINING HONEY. 857 CHAPTER XXIV. STRAINING HONEY AND WAX. WuEN about to remove the contents of a hive, I have never found it necessary to use all the precau- tions often recommended to prevent the access of bees, I have seen it stated that a room in which there was a chimney open, would be unsuitable, as the bees would scent the honey, and thus find their way down into the room. I never was thus troubled by their per- pendicular travelling. It is true, if the day was warm, and a door or window was standing open, the bees would find their way in during a scarcity of honey. But with doors and windows closed no difficulty need be apprehended. METHODS OF REMOVING COMBS FROM THE HIVE, The most convenient way to remove combs from the hive is to take off one of its sides, but this is apt to split the boards, if it was properly nailed, and injure it for.subsequent use. With tools such as have been described, it may be done very nicely, and leave the hive whole. The chisel should have the bevel all on one side, like those used by carpenters. When you commence, turn the flat side next the board of the hive, and the bevel crowded by the combs will follow it close the whole length; with the other tool they are cut across the top, and readily lifted out. If pre- ferred, they may be cut across near the centre and take out half a sheet at a time; this is sometimes necessary on account of the cross-sticks, 858 STRAINING HONEY. DIFFERENT METHODS OF STRAINING HONEY. Such combs as are taken from the middle or vi- cinity of brood-cells, are generally unfit for the table; such should be strained. There are several methods of doing it. One is, to mash the comb and put it in a bag, and hang it over some vessel to catch the honey as it drains out. This will do very well for small quantities in warm weather, or in the fall before there is any of it candied. Another method is to put such combs into a colander, and set this over a pan, and introduce it into an oven after the bread is out. This melts the combs. The honey and a portion of the wax run out together. The wax rises to the top and cools in acake. It is somewhat liable to burn, and requires some care. Many prefer this method, as there is less taste, of bee-bread, no cells containing it being disturbed, but all the honey is not certain to drain out without stirring it. If disposed, two quali- ties may be made, by keeping the first separate. Another method is merely to break the combs finely, and put them into a colander, and allow the honey to drain out without much heat, and afterwards skim off the small particles that rise to the top, or when very particular, pass the honey through a cloth, or piece of lace. But for large quantities, a more expeditious mode is to have a can and strainer, made for the pur- pose, where fifty pounds or more can be worked out at once. The can is.made of tin, twelve.or fourteen inches deep, by about ten or twelve diameter, with handles on each side at the top, for lifting it. The strainer is just enough smaller to go down inside the STRAINING HONEY. 859 ean; the height may be considerably less, providing there are handles on each side to pass out at the top; the bottom is perforated with holes like a colander, combs are put into this, and the whole set into a kettle of boiling water, and heated without any risk of burning, until all the wax is melted, (which may be ascertained by stirring it,) when it may be taken out. All the wax, bee-bread, &c., will rise in a few minutes. The strainer can now be raised out of the top and set on a frame for the purpose, or by merely tipping it slightly on one side it will rest on the top of the can. It might, be left to cool before raising the. strainer, were it not liable to stick to the sides of the can; the honey would be full as pure, and separate nearly as clean from the wax and bee-bread, &e. When raised out before cooling, the contents shontd be repeatedly stirred, or considerable honey will re- main. Two qualities may be made by keeping the first that runs through separate from the last, (as stirring it works out the bee-bread). Even a third quality may be obtained by adding a little water, and repeating the process. This is worth but little. By boiling out the water, without burning, and removing the scum, it will do to feed bees. By adding water until it will just bear a potato, boiling and skimming, and letting it ferment, it will make metheglin, or by letting the fermentation proceed it will make vinegar. Honey that has been heated thoroughly, will not candy as readily as when strained without heat. A little water may be added to prevent its getting too hard; but should it get so in cold weather, it-can at 860 STRAINING HONEY. any time be warmed, and water added until it is of the right consistence. GETTING OUT WAX—DIFFERENT METHODS. Several methods have been adopted for separating the wax. I never found any means of getting out the whole. Yet I suppose I came as near it as any one. Some recommend heating it in an oven, similar to the method of straining honey through the colander, but I have found it to waste more than when melted with water.