ssatibhit) NEAR ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New York STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS BEEKEEPING LIBRARY Cornell Univer; Library SF 523.0771 1883 4% ed- e bee-keeper’s guide; or Manual of the ‘ll NL mann, balc Cornell University The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924003450172 Bee-Keepers Guide: MANUAL aan APIARY, A.J. COOK, Professor of Entomology IN THE MICHIGAN STATE AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE NINTH EDITION, REVISED, ENLARGED, MOSTLY RE-WRITTEN AND BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED, ELEVENTH THOUSAND. LANSING, MICHIGAN, 1883. (@, 333085 Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1883, by ALBERT J. COOK, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. TO THE REVEREND L. L. LANGSTROTH, THE _ INVENTOR Of THE MOVABLE FRAME QATVE, THE HUBER OF AMERICA, AND ONE OF THE GREATEST MASTERS OF PURE AND APPLIED SCIENCE, AS RELATING TO APICULTURE, IN THE WORLD; THIS MANUAL IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR. PREFACE. In 1876, in response to a desire frequently expressed by my apiarian friends, principally my students, I published an edition of 3,000 copies of the little unpretending ‘‘ Manual of the Apiary.” This was little more than the course of lectures which I gave annually at the College. In less than two years this was exhausted, and the second edition, enlarged, revised, and much more fully illustrated, was issued. So great was the sale that in less than a year this was followed by the third and fourth editions, and, in less than two years, the fifth edition (seventh thousand) was issued. In each of the two following years, another edition was de- manded. In each of these editions the book has been enlarged, changes made and illustrations added, that the work might keep pace with our rapidly advancing art. So great has been the demand for this work, not only at home and in Europe, but even in more distant lands, and so great has been the progress of apiculture—so changed the views and methods of our best bee-keepers, that the author ° vi. Preface. feels warranted in thoroughly revising and entirely recasting this eighth edition (tenth thousand). Not only is the work re-written, but much new matter, and many new and costly illustrations are added. In this edition, the author also assumes the duties of pub- lisher. In bidding adieu to the old publisher, I wish puby licly to express my high appreciation, and deep sense of obli- gation for the able manner in which Mr. Newman has per- formed his share of the work. I shall still hope for his wise counsel and advice, from which I shall surely profit in the future as in the past. For this, as also for the able opin- ions of many other of the first apiarists of America and Europe, I wish to express most grateful acknowledgments. It is the desire and determination of the author that this work shall continue to be the exponent of the most improved apiculture; and no pains will be spared, that each succeeding edition may embody the latest improvements and discoveries wrought out by the practical man and the scientist, as gleaned. from the excellent home and foreign apiarian and scientific periodicals. A. J. COOK. State Agricultural College, Lansing, Mich., April, 1883. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Who May Keep Bee .....sssccsssstssseseeseees Specialists Amateufs.......... Who are Specially Interdicted............ Inducements to Bee-Keeping. Recreation ......ccccsscsscecssescsseeceee an tetdaveueivesheuSecese PECTS eccisadesnccinas esi cea ialcsa sassy Son Seyi oa tOllagaeats Excellence as an Amateur Pursuit ....ccccccccssscscerenesceeseaarsessesereressees Adaptation to Women.. Improves the Mind and the Observation .......cccssesesseeceeees Yields Delicious Food Adds to the Nation’s Wealth What Successful Bee-keeping Requires. Mental Effort... Experience Necessary........scscssscrcsssseseesseescessneerers Learn from Others.... Aid From Conventions ............ Aid from Bee Publications ..........ccesccseesseeeeeeeeeee American Bee Journal............... Gleanings in Bee Culture..... Bee-Keepers’ Magazine .......... cesses eeeeeessesesseneseeteseaneeesessosens Bee-Keepers’ Exchange... Bee-Keepers’ Guide..........c.scceeeeee Kansas Bee-Keeper. The California Apiarist............ Books for the Apiarist ; Langstroth on the Honey-Bee...... Quinby’s Mysteries of Bee-Keeping King’s Text-BooKk..0......ccccssscsssessseresssennee soesssevenseereereees A BCof Bee Culture viii. Contents. BEGG ANE, HOTCY a cescssioscesccsversesarsiosencessvesievanssbatsianiea weteeistnternortiven sence, 12k Blessed Bees oncbiete z Foreign Publications... ccc: seeesereeseseeeessesareeereees British Bee-Journal Foreign BOoks.......cccsouce ssseee Promptitude Enthusiasm. PART I. NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE. CHAPTER I. The Bee’s Place in the Animal Kingdom...... Branch of the Honey-Bee ...0...... ssscessessscccsenscsnstssecees The Class of the Honey-Bee Sub-Class of the Honey-Bee. Order of the Honey-Bee.... Family of the Honey-Bee ....... The Genus of the Honey-Bee . Species Of OUL HONEY-BEES ....ssssscscscssecsecssse sasssesecereetencaressearesseeeseersees Varieties of the Honey-Bee German or Black Bee Ligurian or Italian...... edavataeaesdcaveuyesetena a The Syrian and Cyprian Races . Other Races Bibliography............. Valuable Books for the Student of Entomology CHAPTER Il. Anatomy and Physiology .......... s f Anatomy of Insects. a 4 Organs of the Head...............s00 46 Appendages of the Thorax ve OC Internal Anatomy of Insects. 5g Secretory Organs of Insects vives 5i Sex Organs of Insects 5E Transformations of Insects ...... 6] The Egg ae 62 The Larva of Insects.............. eueaieiaia avnsdeees s4 6¢ The Pupa of Insects : The Imago Stage............. Incomplete Transformation ... 65 Contents. ix. PAGE Anatomy and Physiology of the HoneyBee 66 Three Kinds of Bees in each Family 66 The Queen BeO.........ccssecsssescsesesssseeceneneenesesseaesssneseesesses 66 The Drones aa — 79 The Neuters or Worke’S..........004 ssagieusa ee siaeastes 83 CHAPTER III. Swarming, or Natural Methods of Increase 96 CHAPTER IV. Products of Bees, their Origin and Function ........ccssesssessssseeessonenseeees 99 LONGCY sasirisistaewn cece Wax........ Pollen, or Bee-Bread of Propolis .. 106 Bibliography 110 PART IT. THE APIARY, ITS CARE AND MANAGEMENT. INTRODUCTION. Starting an Apiary . 118 Preparation ........ccscsccsscsreseceeseees 114 Read a good Manual... . 118 Visit some Apiarist. 118 Take a College Course ais seeseceee 114 Decide On & Plane ......ccccccscssecccccnecesssces sescenssecearnecsecs a 114 How to Procure first Colonies. 114 Kind of Bees to Purchase ...... ll Int What Kind Of Fives i. s, knead wax, and perform their various functions. Theiy eyes (Fig. 5) are like those of the queen, while their wings, like those of the drones, attain the end of the body. These organs (Fig. 3), as in all insects with rapid flight, are slim and strong, and, by their more or less rapid vibrations, give the variety of tone which characterizes their hum. Thus we have the rapid movements and high pitch of anger, and the slow motion and mellow note of con- tent and joy. Qe : a—Jaw of drone. b—Jaw of queen. c—Jaw of worker. On the outside of the posterior tibia and basal tarsus is a cavity, made more deep by its rim of hairs, known as the pollen basket (Fig. 25, p). In these pollen baskets is compacted the pollen, which is gathered by the mouth organs, and carried back by the four anterior legs. Opposite the pollen baskets are regular rows of golden hairs (Fig. 26, e), which probably aid in storing and compacting the pollen balls. On the anterior legs of the workers, between the femur and tibia, isa curious notch (Fig. 27, C) covered by aspur (Fig. 27, B). For several years this has caused speculation among my students, and has attracted the attention of observing apiarists. Some have supposed that it aided bees,in reaching deeper down into tubular flowers; others, that it -was used in scrap- ing off pollen, and still others, that it enabled bees to hold on Legs of Workers, 89 Fig. 25. Fic. 26, Outside. Inside. Part of Posterior Leg of Worker, much magnified. t—Tibia. hA—Rim of hairs. p—Pollen basket. ¢s—Joint of tarsi, c—Claws. e—Rows of hairs, when clustering.- The first two suggestions may be correct, though other honey and pollen-gathering bees do not possess it. “The latter function.is performed by the claws at the end of the tarsi. The worker bees possess an organ of defense, which they Fig. 27. Anterior Leg of Worker, magnified. are quick to use if occasion demands. This organ is straight, not curved as is the sting of the queen. The poison, which is emitted in stinging and which causes the severe pain, is an 90 Sting of the Bee. acid fluid, which is secreted by a double gland, and stored in a muscular sack (Fig. 28, C’), which is about the size of a flax- seed. This sack is connected by a tube (Fig. 28, If) with the reservoir of the sting. The sting is a triple organ consisting of three sharp hollow spears, which are very smooth and of exquisite polish. If we magnify the most beautifully wrought Fie, 28, Sting with Lancets drawn one side, cross-section of Sting,and a ancet, much magnified. cC—Poison sack. M—Tube from sack to reservoir, 8—Reservoir. A—Awl. B, B—Lancets. E, k—Valves. vu, Uu—Barbs. 0, O—Openingsfrom hollowin H—Hollow in awL I,1—Hollows in lancets. lancets. T, T—Ridges in awl. T’—Groove in lancet. steel instrument, it looks rough and unfinished; while the parts of the sting, however highly magnified, are smooth and perfect. The true relation of the three parts of the sting was accurately described by Mr. J. R. Bledsoe, in the American ' Sting of the Bee. 91 Bee Journal, vol. 6, page 29. The action in stinging and the method of extruding the poison, are well described in a beau- tifully illustrated article by Mr. J. D. Hyatt, in Vol. I, No. 1, of American Quarterly Microscopical Journal, The larger of the three awls (Fig. 28, A) usually, though incorrectly, styled a sheath, has a large cylindrical reservoir at its base (Fig. 28, S) which is entirely shut off from the hollow (Fig. 28, H) in the more slender part of the awl, which latter serves no purpose whatever, except to give strength and lightness. The reservoir connects at its base with the poison sack, and below, by a slit, with the opening (Fig. 28, ’) made by the approximation of the three awls. The other two awls (Fig. 28, B, B), which we will call lancets, are also hollow (Fig. 28. I, I). They are barbed (Fig. 28, U, U) much like a fish-hook, except that there are eight or ten barbs, instead of one. Five of the barbs are large and strong. These barbs catch hold and cause the extraction of the sting when the organ is used. Near the base of each lancet is a beautiful valvular organ (Fig. 28, E, £). The hollow inside the lancets (Fig. 28, J, I), unlike that of the awl, is useful. It opens anteriorly in front of the first six barbs (Fig. 28, 0, 0), as shown by Mr. Hyatt, and posteriorly just back of the valves into the central tube (Fig. 28, .V), and through it into the reservoir (Fig. 28, S). The poison then can pass either through the hollow lancets (Fig. 28, J, I) or though the cen- tral tubes (Fig. 28, NV), between the three spears. t The lancets are held to the central piece by projections (Fig. 28, T, T) from the latter, which fit into corresponding grooves (Fig. 28, 1’) of the lancets. In the figure the lancets are moved one side to show the barbs and valves; normally they are held close together, and thus form the tube (Fig. 28, N). Arecnagitime zh ¢ The parts of the sting are moved by muscles connecting the basis of the parts and extending from the parts to the large chitinous supports (Fig. 28, d). The fact that muscles connect the various parts, and the muscular character of the sack, explain how a sting may act, even after the bee is apparently lifeless, or, what is even more wonderful, after it has been extracted from the bee. The barbs hold one lancet as a fulcrum for the other, and so long as the muscles are excitable so long is a thrust possible. Thus I have known 92 Worker Larva. a bee, dead for hours, to sting. A wasp, dead more than a day, with the abdomen cut off, made a painful thrust, and stings extracted for several minutes could still bring tears by their entering the flesh. In stinging, the awl first pierces, then the lancets follow. As the lancets push in, the valves close the central tube, when the poison is driven through the lancets themselves and comes out by the openings near the barbs (Fig. 28, 0, 0). The drop of poison which we see on the sting when the bee is slightly irritated, as by jarring the hive on a cold day, is pushed through the central opening by the muscular contraction of the sack attendant upon the elevation of the abdomen and extrusion of the sting. The young microscopist will find it difficult to see the barbs, as it is not easy to turn the lancets so that they will show. Pa- tience and persistence, however, will bring success. The honey-stomach, or crop, in the workers (Fig. 11, 0) is well developed, though no larger than that of drones. Whether it is more complex in structure or not, I cannot state. The workers hatch from impregnated eggs, which can only come from a queen that has met a’drone, and are always laid in the small, horizontal cells (Fig. 31, c). These eggs are in no wise different, so far as we can see, from those which are laid in the drone or queen-cells. All are cylindrical and slightly curved (Fig. 29, a, 6) and are fastened by one end to the bottom of the cell, and a little to one side of the centre. As in other animals, the eggs from different queens vary preceptibly in size. As already shown, these are voluntarily fertilized by the queen as she extrudes them, preparatory to fastening them in the cells. These eggs, though small—one-sixteenth of an inch long, may be easily seen by holding the comb so that. the light will shine into the cells. With experience they are detected almost at once, but I have often found it quite dif- ficult to make the novice see them, though very plainly visible to my experienced eye. The egg hatches in three days. The larva (Fig. 29, d, e, f), incorrectly called grub, maggot—and even caterpillar, by Hunter—is white, footless, and lies coiled up in the cell till near maturity. It is fed a whitish fluid, though this seems to be given grudgingly, as the larva never seems to have more than it wishes to eat, so it is fed quite frequently by the mature workers. It would seem that the workers fear an Development of the Bee 93 Fig. 29. Development of the Bee. excessive development, which, 2s we have seen, is most mis- chievous and ruinous, and work to prevent the same by a mean and meager diet. The food is composed of pollen and honey. Certainly of pollen, for, as I have repeatedly proved, without pollen no brood will be reared. Probably some honey is incorporated, as sugar is an essential in the nutrition of all animals, and we could hardly account for the excessive amount of honey consumed, while breeding, by the extra amount consumed by the bees consequent upon ‘the added exercise required in caring for the brood. M. Quinby, Doo- little, and others, say water is also an element of this food. But bees often breed very rapidly when they do not leave the hive at all, and so water, other than that contained in the honey, etc., cannot be added. The time when bees seem, to need water, and so repair to the rill and the pond, is during the heat of spring and summer, when they are most busy. May this not be quafted fer the most part to slake their own thirst ? In eight days from the laying of the egg, the worker cell, like the queen cell, is capped over by the worker-bees. This cap is composed of pollen and wax, so it is darker, more 94 Longevity and Function of Workers. porous, and more easily broken than the caps of the honey- cells; it is alse more convex (Fig. 29, k). The larva, now full grown, having lapped up all the food placed before it, surrounds itself with a silken cocoon, so excessively thin that it requires a great number to appreciably reduce the size. of the cells. These always remain in the cells after the bees escape, and give to old comb its dark color and great strength. Yet they are so thin that cells used even for a dozen years, seem to serve as well for brood as when first used. In three days the insect assumes the pupa state (Fig. 29,9). In all insects the spinning of the cocoon seems an exhaustive pro- cess, for so far as I have observed, and that is quite at length, this act is succeeded by a variable period of repose. The pupa is also called anymph. By cutting open cells it is easy to determine just the date of forming the cocoon, and of changing to the pupa state. The pupa looks like the mature bee with all its appendages bound close about it, though the color is still whitish. In twenty-one days the bees emerge from the cells. The old writers were quite mistaken in thinking that the advent of these was an occasion of joy and excitement among the bees. All apiarists have noticed how utterly unmoved the bees are, as they push over and crowd by these new-comers in the most heedless and discourteous manner imaginable. Wildman tells of seeing the workers gathering pollen and honey the same day that they came forth from the cells. This idea is quickly disproved if we Italianize black bees. We know that for some days these young bees do not leave the hive at all, except in case of swarming, when bees even too young to fly will attempt to go with the crowd. These young bees, like young drones and queens, are much lighter colored when they first leave the cell. The worker-bees never attain a great age. Those reared in autumn may live for eight or nine months, and if in queenless stocks, where little labor is performed, even longer; while those reared in spring will wear out in three months, and when most busy will often die in from thirty to forty-five days. None of these bees survive the year through, so there is a limit to the number which may exist in a colony. As a good queen will lay, when in her best estate, three thousand eggs daily, and as the workers live from one to three months, it might Function of Workers. 95 seem that forty thousand was too small a figure for the num- ber of workers. Without doubt a greater number is possible. That it is rare is not surprising, when we remember the numerous accidents and vicissitudes that must ever attend the individuals of these populous communities. The function of the worker-bees is to do all the manual labor of the hives. They secrete the wax, which forms in small scales (Fig. 30, w) under the over-lapping rings under the abdomen. I have found these wax-scales on both old and young. According to Fritz Miiller, the admirable German observer, so long a traveler in South America, the bees of the genus Melipona secrete the wax on the back. The young bees build the comb, ventilate the hive, feed the larvze and cap the cells. The older bees—for, as readily seen in Italianizing, the young bees do not go forth for the first two weeks—gather the honey, collect the pollen, or bee. bread as itis generally called, bring in the propolis or bee. glue, which is used to close openings and as a cement, supply the hive with water (?), defend the hive from all improper intrusion, destroy drones when their day of grace is past, kill and arrange for replacing worthless queens, destroy inchoate ueens, drones, or even workers, if circumstances demand it, and lead forth a portion of the bees when the conditions impel them to swarm. When there are no young bees, the old bees will act as house-keepers and nurses, which they otherwise refuse to do. The young bees, on the other hand, will not go forth to glean, even though there be no old bees to do this necessary part of bee-duties. An indirect function of all the bees is to supply animal heat, as the very life of the bees requires that the temperature inside the hive be maintained at a rate consider- ably above freezing. In the chemical processes attendant upon nutrition, much heat is generated, which, as first shown by Newport, may be considerably augmented at the pleasure of the bees, by forced respiration. The bees, by a rapid vibration of their wings, have the power to ventilate their hives and reduce the temperature when the weather is hot. Thus they are able to moderate the heat of summer, and tem- per the cold of winter. 96 Swarming. CHAPTERIITI. SWARMING, OR NALURAL METHODS OF IN- CREASE. The natural method by which an increase of colonies among bees is secured, is of great interest, and though it has been closely observed, and assiduously studied’ for a long period, and has given rise to theories as often absurd as sound, yet, even now, it is a fertile field for investigation, and will repay any who may come with the true spirit of inquiry, for there is much concerning it which is involved in mystery. Why do bees swarm at unseeming times? Why is the swarming spirit so excessive at times and so restrained at other seasons? These and other questions we are too apt to refer to erratic tendencies of the bees, when there is no question but that they follow naturally upon certain conditions, perhaps intricate and obscure, which it is the province of the investigator to dis- cover. Who shall be first to unfold the principles which govern these, as all other actions of the bees? In the spring or early summer, when the hive has become populous, and storing very active, the queen, ‘as if conscious that a home could be overcrowded, and foreseeing such danger, commences to deposit drone-eggs in drone-cells, which the worker-bees, perhaps moved by like considerations, begin to construct, if they are not already in existence. In fact, drone comb is almost sure of construction at such times. No sooner is the drone brood well under way, than the large, awkward queen-cells are commenced, often to the number of ten or fif- teen, though there may be not more than three or four. The Cyprian and Syrian bees often start from fifty to one hundred queen-cells. In these, eggs are placed, and the rich royal jelly added, and soon, often before the cells are even capped—and very rarely before a cell is built, if the bees are crowded, the hives unshaded, the ventilation insufficient, or the honey-yield very bountiful—some bright day, usually about ten o'clock, after an unusual disquiet both inside and outside the hive, a large part of the worker-bees—being off duty for the day, and having previously loaded their honey-sacks—rush forth from the hive as if alarmed by the cry of fire, the queen among Swarming. 97 the number, though she is by no means among the first, and frequently is quite late in her exit. It is often asserted that bees do no gathering on the day they swarm, previous to leay- ing the hive. Thisis nottrue. Mr. Doolittle thinks they are just as active as on other days. The assertion that bees always cluster on the outside preliminary to swarming, is not true. The crowded hive makes this common, though in a well managed chew it is very infrequent. The bees, once started on their quest for a new home, after many uproarious gyrations about the old one, dart forth to alight upon some bush, limb, or fence, though in one case I knew tlie first swarm of bees to leave at once for parts unknown, without even waiting to cluster. After thus meditating for the space of from one to three hours, upon a future course, they again take wing and leave for their new home, which they have probably already sought out. Some suppose the bees look up a home before leaving the hive, while others claim that scouts are in search of one while the bees are clustered. The fact that bees take a right-line to their new home, and fly too rapidly to look as they go, would argue that a home is preémpted, at least, before the cluster is dissolved. The fact that the cluster remains sometimes for hours—even over night—and at other times for a brief period, would lead us to inter that the bees cluster while waiting for a new home to be found. Yet, why do bees sometimes alight after flying a long distance, as did a first swarm the past season upon our College grounds? Was their journey long, so that they must needs stop to rest, or were they flying at random, not knowing whither they were going? If for any reason the queen should fail to join the bees, and perhaps rarely when she is among them, they will, after having clustered, (they rarely fail to cluster) return to their old home. The youngest bees will remain in the old hive, to which those bees which are abroad in quest of stores will return. The presence of young bees on the ground immediately after a swarm has issued—those with flight too feeble to join the rovers—will always mark the previous home of the emigrants. Soon, in seven or eight days, often later, if Italians, the first ueen will come forth from her cell, and in two or three days she will, or may, lead a new colony forth; but before she does this, the peculiar note, known as the piping of the queen, 7 98 After-Swarms, may be heard. This piping sounds like ‘‘ peep,” ‘‘ peep,” is shrill and clear, and can be plainly heard by placing the ear to the hive, nor would it be mistaken. It is followed by a lower, hoarser note, made by a queen still within the cell. This piping is best heard by placing the ear to the hive in the evening or early morning. If heard, we may surely expect a swarm the day following, unless the weather is too unpleasant. Some have supposed that the cry of the liberated queen was that of hate, while that by the queen still imprisoned was either of enmity or fear. Never will an after-swarm leave, unless preceded by this peculiar note. At successive periods of one or two days, one, two, or even three more colonies may issue from the old home. Mr. Langstroth knew five after-swarms to issue, and others have reported eight and ten. These last swarms will all be heralded by the piping of the queen. They will be less particular as to the time of day when they issue, as they have been known to leave before sun-rise, and even after sun-set. The well-known apiarist, Mr. A. F. Moon, once knew a swarm to issue by moon-light. They will, as a rule, cluster farther from the hive. The after-swarms are accompanied by the queen, and in case swarming is delayed may be attended by a plurality of queens. Berlepsch and Langstroth each saw eight queens issue with a swarm, while others report even more. These virgin queens fly very rapidly, so the swarm will seem more active and definite in its course than will first swarms. The cutting short of swarming preparations before the second, third, or even the first swarm issues, is by no means a rare occurrence. This is effected by the bees destroying the queen-cells, and sometimes by a general extermination of the drones, and is generally to be explained by a cessation of the honey yield. It is commonly observed that while a moderate yield of honey is very provocative of swarming, a heavy flow seems frequently to absorb the entire attention of the bees, and so destroy the swarming impulse entirely. Cells thus destroyed are easily recognized, as they are torn open from the side and not cut back from the end. Swarming out at other times, especially in late winter and spring, is sometimes noticed by apiarists. This is due to famine, mice, or some other disturbing circumstance which makes the hive intolerable to the bees. Products of Bees. 99 CHAPTER IV. PRODUCTS OF BEES; THEIR ORIGIN AND FUNCTION. Among all insects, bees stand first in the variety of the useful products which they give us, and, next to the silk- moths, in the importance of these products. They seem the more remarkable and important, in that so few insects yield articles of commercial value. ‘True, the cochineal insect, a species of bark-louse, gives us an important coloring material ; the lac insect, of the same family, gives us the important element of our best glue—shellac ; the blister-beetles afford an article prized by the physician, while we are indebted to one of the gall-flies for a valuable element of ink: but the honey- bee affords not only a delicious article of food, but also another article of no mean commercial rank, namely, wax. We will proceed to examine the various products which come from bees. HONEY. Of course the first product of bees, not only to attract atten- tion but also in importance, is honey. And what is honey? We can only say that it is a sweet substance gathered from flowers and other sources, by the bees. We cannot, therefore, give its chemical composition which would be as varied as the sources from which it comes. We cannot even call it a sugar, for it may be, and always is, composed of various sugars, and thus it is easy to understand why honey varies so much in richness, color, flavor, and effects on digestion. Nectar of flowers and honey are quite different. The former contains more water, is neutral instead of acid, and the sugars taken from the flowers are much modified while in the alimentary canal of the bee in transit from flower to comb. Nectar consists of sucrose or cane sugar from twelve to fifteen yer cent., and mellose, or uncrystallizable sugar ten per cent. The remainder is mostly water, though there is always a small amount of nitrogenous material. In honey the cane sugar is largely changed to a substance chemically like glucose: the mellose seems also somewhat modi- fied. There is a little mannite, probably the result of chemi- 100 Character of Honey. cal change in the bee’s stomach. The acid condition of honey is plainly recognizable by the taste, as all lovers of honey know. Thave fed bees pure cane sugar, and when stored the late Prof. R. F. Kedzie found that much of this sugar was transformed in much the same way that the nectar is changed which is taken from the flowers. It is probable that the large compound racemose glands in the head and thorax of the bees (Fig. 23, a) secrete an abun- dant ferment which hastens these transformations which the sugars undergo while in the stomach of the bee. Probably the stomach juices also aid in these changes. Much of the water escapes after the honey is stored. The method of collecting honey has already been described. The principles of lapping and suction are both involved in the operation. When the stomach is full, the bee repairs to the hive and regurgitates its precious load, either giving it to the bees or storing it in the cells. Mr. Doolitile claims that the bees that gather give all their honey to the other bees, which latter store it in the cells. This honey remains for sometime un- capped that it may ripen, in which process the water is partially evaporated and the honey rendered thicker. If the honey remains uncapped, or is removed from the cells, it will generally granulate, if the temperature be reduced below 70°. Like many other substances, honey, if heated and sealed while hot, will not crystallize till it is unsealed. In case of granula- tion the sucrose and glucose crystallize in the mellose. Some honey, as that from the South and some from California, seems to remain liquid indefinitely. Some kinds of our own honey erystallize much more readily than others. The only sure test of the purity of honey is that of the polariscope. This is not practical except in the hands of the physicist. ‘The most practi- cal test is that of granulation, though this is not wholly reliable. Granulated honey is almost certainly pure. Occasionally genu- ine honey refuses, even in a zero atmosphere, to crystallize. When there are no flowers, or when the flowers yield no sweets, the bees, ever desirous to add to their stores, frequently essay to rob other colonies, and often visit the refuse of cider mills, or suck up the oozing sweets of various plants or bark- lice, thus adding, may be, unwholesome food to their usually delicious and refined stores. It is a curious fact that the Secretion of Wax. 101 queen never lays her maximum number of eggs except when storing is going on. In fact, in the interims of honey-gather- ing, egg-laying not infrequently ceases altogether. The queen seems discreet, gauging the size of her family by the probable means of support. Again, in times of extraordinary yields of honey the storing is very rapid and the hive becomes so filled that the queen is unable to lay her full quota of eggs; in fact, I have seen the brood very much reduced in this way, which, of course, greatly depletes the colony. This might be called ruinous prosperity. he natural use of the honey is to furnish the mature bees with food and, when mixed with pollen, to form the diet of the young bees. WAX. The product of the bees second in importance, is wax. This is a solid, unctious substance, and is, as shown by its chemical composition, a fat-like material, though not, as seme authors assert, the fat of bees. As already observed, this is a secretion formed in scales, the shape of an irregular pentagon Fia. 30. esi a iy Waz Scales in situ, magnified. w—Wax-scale, (Fig. 30, w), underneath the abdomen. These scales are light- colored, very thin and fragile, and are secreted by and molded upon the membrane towards the body from the wax-pockets. Neighbour speaks of the wax oozing through pores from the stomach. This is not the case, but, like the synovial fluid about our own joints, it is formed by the secreting membrane, and does not pass through holes, as water through a sieve. There are four of these wax-pockets on each side, and thus there may be eight wax-scales on a bee at onetime. This wax can be secreted by the bees when fed on pure sugar, as shown 102 Secretion of Was. by Huber, whose experiment I have verified. I-removed all honey and comb from my observing-hive, left the bees for twenty-four hours to digest all food which might be in their stomachs, and then fed pure sugar, which was better than honey, as Prof. R. F. Kedzie has shown by analysis that not only filtered honey, but even the nectar which he collected right from the flowers themselves, contains nitrogen. The bees commenced at once to build comb, and continued for several days, so long as I kept them confined. This is as we should suppose; sugar contains hydrogen and oxygen in pro- portion to form water, wnile the third element, carbon, is in the same or about the same proportion as the oxygen. Now, the fats usually contain little oxygen and a good deal of car- bon and hydrogen. Thus the sugar by losing some of its oxygen would contain the requisite elements for fat. It was found true in the days of slavery in the South that the negroes of Louisiana, during the gathering of the cane, would become very fat. They ate much sugar; they gained much fat. Now, wax is a fat-like substance, not that it is the animal fat of bees, as often asserted—in fact it contains much less hydrogen, as will be seen by the following formula from Hess: Oxygen 7.50 CAT DON vessvaiccesncasacisacscnssccsonedoncntens eascenstes’ seeeveccseesvedaceses 79.30 Hydrogen 13.20 —but it is a special secretion for a special purpose, and from its composition we should conclude that it might be secreted from a purely saccharine diet, and experiment confirms the con- clusion. It has been found that bees require about twenty pounds of honey to secrete one of wax. The experiments of r. P. L. Viallon show this estimate of Huber to be too great. My own experiments would sustain Huber’s statement. In these experiments the bees are confined, and so the conclu- sions are to be received with caution. We cannot know how much the results are changed by the abnormal condition in which the bees are placed. Ss, That nitrogenous food is necessary, As claimed ‘by Langstroth and Neighbour, is not true. Yet, in the active season, when muscular exertion is great, nitrogenous food must be impera- tively necessary to supply the waste and give tone to the body. Secretion of wax demands a healthy condition of the bee, and so indirectly requires some nitrogenous food.” Wax and Comb. 108 It is asserted that to secrete wax, bees need to hang in com- pact clusters or festoons, in absolute repose. Such quiet would certainly seem conducive to most active secretion. The same food could not go to form wax, and at the came time supply the waste of tissue which ever follows upon muscular activity. The cow, put to hard toil, could not give so much milk’ But I find, upon examination, that the bees, even the most aged, while gathering in the honey season, yield up the wax-scales the same as those within the hive. During the active storing of the past season, especially when comb-building was in rapid progress, I found that nearly every bee taken from the flowers contained the wax-scales of varying sizes in the wax-pockets. By the activity of the bees, these are not infrequently loosened from their position and fall to the bottom of the hive. It is probable that wax secretion is not forced upon the bees, but only takes place as required. So the bees, unless wax is demanded, may perform other duties. Whether this secretion is a matter of the bee’s will, or whether it is excited by the surrounding conditions without any thought, are questions yet to be settled. These wax-scales are loosened by the claws and carried to the mouth by the feet, where they are mixed with saliva, and after the proper kneading by the jaws are fashioned into that wonderful and exquisite structure, the comb. In this trans- formation to comb, the wax may become much darker in color. It is almost sure to do this if the new comb is formed adjacent to old, dark colored corb. Honey-comb is wonderfully delicate, the wall of a new cell being only about 1-180 of an inch in thickness, and so formed as to combine the greatest strength with the least expense of material and room. It has been a subject of admiration since the earliest time. That the form is a matter of necessity, as some claim, the result of pressure and not of bee-skill, is not true. The hexagonal form is assumed at the very start of the cells, when there can be no pressure. The wasp builds the same form, though unaided. ‘The assertion that the cells, even the drone and worker-cells, are absolutely uniform and perfect, is also untrue, as a little inspection will convince any one. The late Prof. Wyman proved that an exact hexagonal cell does not exist. He showed that the size varies, so that in a distance of ten worker-cells there may be a variation of one 104 Honey-Comb Cells. diameter, and this in natural, not distorted cells. This varia- tion of one-fifth of an inch in ten cells is extreme, but a varia- tion of one-tenth of an inch is common. The sides, as also the angles, are not constant. The rhombic faces forming the bases of the cells also vary. The bees change from worker (Fig. 31, ¢) to drone-cells (Fig. 31, a), which are one-fifth larger, and vice versa, not by any system (Fig 31, 6), but simply by enlarging or contracting. It usually takes about four rows to complete the transformation, though the number of deformed cells varies from two to eight. Fig. 31. Rhombs, Pyramidal Bases, and Cross-sections of Cells illustrated, Honey-Comb. a—Drone-cells. e—Worker-cells. b—Deformed cells. dad d—Queen-cells. The structure of each cell is quite complex, yet full of interest. The base is a triangular pyramid (Fig. 31, ¢) whose three faces are rhombs, and whose apex forms the very centre Comb Building. 105 of the floor of the cell. From the six free or non-adjacent edges of the three rhombs extend the Jateral walls or faces of the cell. The apex of this basal pyramid is a point where the contiguous faces of three cells on the opposite side meet, and form the angles of the bases of three cells on the opposite side of the comb. Thus the base of each cell forms one-third of the base of each of three opposite cells. One side thus braces the other and adds much to the strength of the comb. Each cell, then, is in the form of a hexagonal prism, terminating in a flattened triangular pyramid. The bees usually build several combs at once, and carry forward several cells on each side of each comb, constantly adding to the number, by additions to the edge. Huber first observed the process of comb-building, noticing the bees abstract the wax-scales, carry them to the mouth, add the frothy saliva, and then knead and draw out the yellow ribbons which were fastened to the top of the hive, or added to the comb already commenced. The diameter of the worker-cells (Fig. 31, c) averages little more than one-fifth of an inch—Reaumur says two and three- fifths lines, or twelfths of an inch, while the drone-cells (Fig. 31, a) are a little more than one-fourth of an inch, or, accord- ing to Reaumur, three and one-third lines. But this distin- guished author was quite wrong when he said: ‘‘These are the invariable dimensions of all cells that ever were or ever will be made.” The depth of the worker-cells is a little less than half an inch; the drone-cells are slightly extended so as to be a little more than half an inch deep. These cells are often drawn out so as to be an inch long, when used solely as honey receptacles. The capping of the brood-cells is dark, porous, and convex, while that of the honey-cells is white and concave. This capping of honey-cells is made thicker by black bees than by the other races, and so their comb honey is more beautiful. The character of the cells, as to size, that is, whether they are drone or worker, seems to be determined by the relative abundance of bees and honey. If the bees are abundant and honey needed, or if there is no queen to lay eggs, drone- comb (Fig. 31, a) is invariably built, while if there are few bees, and of course little honey needed, then worker-comb. (Fig. 31, ¢) is almost as invariably formed. 106 Fossil Honey-Comb Coral. All comb when first formed is clear and translucent. The fact that it is often dark and opaque implies that it has been long used as brood-comb, and the opacity is due to the innu- merable thin cocoons which line the cells, ‘These may be separ- ated by dissolving the wax; which may be done by putting it in boiling alcohol. Such comb need not be discarded, for if composed of worker-cells it is still very valuable for breeding purposes, and should not be destroyed till the cells are too small for longer service, which will not occur till after many years of use. The function, then, of the wax, is to make comb and caps for the honey-cells, and, combined with pollen, to form queen-cells (Fig. 31, d) and caps for the brood-cells. A very common fossil found in many parts of the Eastern and Northern United States, is, from its appearance, often called petrified honey-comb. We have many such specimens in our museum. In some cases the cells are hardly larger than a pin-head; in others a quarter of an inch in diameter. Fia. 32. Hovey-comb Coral. These (Figs. 32, 33) are not fossil honey-comb as many are led to believe, though the resemblance is so striking that no wonder the public generally are deceived. These specimens ‘are fossil coral, which the paleontologist places in the genus Favosites; favosus being a commoa species in our State. They are very abundant in the lime rock in northern Michi- gan, and are very properly denominated honey-comb coral. Pollen or Bee-Bread. 107 The animals of which these were once the skeletons, so to speak, are not insects at all, though often called so by men of considerable information. The species of the genus Favosites first appeared in the Upper Silurian rocks, culminated in the Devonian, and disap- peared in the early Carboniferous. No insects appeared till the Devonian age, and no Hymenoptera—bees, wasps, etc.— till after the Carboniferous. So the old-time Favosites reared its limestone columns and helped to build islands and conti- nents untold ages—millions upon millions of years—before any flower bloomed, or any bee sipped the precious nectar. In some specimens of this honey-comb coral (Fig. 33), there Fie. 33. Honey-comb Coral. are to be seen banks of cells, much resembling the paper cells of some of our wasps. This might be called wasp-omb coral, except that both styles were wrought by the self-same animals. : POLLEN, OR BEE-BREAD. An ancient Greek author states that in Hymettus the bees tied little pebbles to their legs to hold them down. This 108 Pollen and Propolis. fanciful conjecture probably arose from seeing the pollen balls on the bees legs. Even such scientists as Reaumur, Bonnet, Swammerdam, and many apiarists of the last century, thought they saw in these pollen-balls the source of wax. But Huber, John Hunter, Duchet, Wildman, and others, noticed the presence and function of the wax-scales already described, and were aware that the pollen served a different purpose. This substance, like nectar, is not secreted nor manufactured by the bees, only collected. The bees usually obtain it from the stamens of flowers; but if they gain access to flour when there is no bloom, they will take this in lieu of pollen, in which case the former term used above becomes a misnomer, though usually the bee-bread consists almost wholly of pollen. As already intimated, the pollen is conveyed in the pollen- baskets.(Fig. 25, p) of the posterior legs, to which it is con- veyed by the other legs, and compressed into little oval masses. The motions in this conveyance are exceedingly rapid. The bees not infrequently come to the hives not only with replete pollen-baskets but with their whole under surface thoroughly dusted. Dissection will also show that the same bee may have her sucking stomach distended with honey. Thus the bees make the most of their opportunities. It is a curious fact, noticed even by Aristotle, that the bees, during any trip, almost always gather only a single kind of pollen, or only gather from one species of bloom. Hence, while differ- ent bees may have different colors of pollen, the pellets of bee-bread on any single bee will be uniform in color through- out. Itis possible that the material is more easily collected and compacted when homogeneous. It seems more probable that they prefer the pollen of certain plants, and work on such species so long as they yield the desired food. From this fact we see why bees cause no intercrossing of species of plants; they only intermix the pollen of different plants of the same species. The pollen is usually deposited in the small or worker cells, and is unloaded by a scraping motion of the posterior legs, the pollen baskets being first lowered into the cells. The bee thus freed, leaves the wheat-like masses to be packed by other bees. The cells, which may or may not have the same color of pollen throughout, are never filled quite to the top, and not Funetion of Propolis. 109 infrequently the same cell may contain both pollen and honey. Such a condition is easily ascertained by holding the comb between the eye and the sun. If there is no pollen it will be wholly translucent; otherwise there will be opaque patches. A little experience will make this determination easy, even if the comb. is old. It is often stated that queenless colonies gather no pollen, but this is not true, though they gather less than they otherwise would. It is probable that pollen, at least when honey is added, contains all the essential elements of animal food. It certainly contains the very important principle which is not found in honey—nitrogenous material. The function of bee-bread is to help furnish the brood with proper food. In fact, brood-rearing would be impossible without it. And though it is certainly not essential to the nourishment of the bees when in repose, it still may be so, and unquestionably is, in time of active labor. This point is clearly proved from the fact that pollen husks are always found in the intestines of bees. PROPOLIS. This substance, also called bee-glue, is collected as the bees collect pollen, and not made nor secreted. It is the product of various resinous buds, and may be seen to glisten on the opening buds of the hickory and_horse-chestnut, where it frequently serves the entomologist by capturing small insects. From such sources, from the oozing gum of various trees, from varnished furniture, and from old propolis about unused hives that have previously seen, service, do the bees secure their glue. Probably the gathering of bees about coffins to collect their glue from the varnish, led to the custom of rapping on the hives to inform the bees, in case of a death in the family, that they might join as mourners. This custom still prevails, as I understand, in some parts of the South. Pro- polis has great adhesive force, and though soft and pliable when warm becomes very hard and unyielding when cold. The use of bee glue is to cement the combs to their sup- ports, to fill up all rough places inside the hive, to seal up all crevices except the place of exit, which they often con- tract, and even to cover any foreign substance that cannot be removed. Intruding snails have thus been imprisoned in- side the hive, Réaumur found a snail thus encased; Maraldi, 110 Bibliography. a slug similarly entombed; while I have myself observed a bombus, which had been stripped by the bees of wings, hair, etc., in their vain attempts at removal, also encased in this unique style of a sarcophagus, fashioned by the bees. Alcohol, ether, and chloroform are all ready solvents of bee glue, and will quickly remove it from the hands, clothes, etc. BIBLIOGRAPHY. For those who wish to pursue these interesting subjects more at length, I would recommend the following authors as specially desirable: Kirby and Spence, Introduction to En- tomology; Duncan’s Transformations of Insects; Packard’s Guide to the Study of Insects (American) ; F. Huber’s New Observations on the Natural History of Bees; Bevan on the Honey bee; Langstroth on the Honey Bee (American) ; Neighbour on The Apiary; and the other books already re- ferred to on page eleven. I have often been asked to recommend such treatises, and I heartily commend all of the above. The first and fourth are now outof print, but can be had by leaving orders at second- hand book-stores. PART SHCOND. THE APIARY, ITS CARE AND MANAGEMENT. Mortro:—‘‘Krepr ALL CoLonies Strona!” INTRODUCTION TO PART IL. STARTING AN APIARY. In apiculture, as in all other pursuits, it is all-important to make a good beginning. This demands preparation on the part of the apiarist, the procuring of bees, and location of the apiary. PREPARATION, Before starting in the business, the prospective bee-keeper should inform himself in the art. READ A GOOD MANUAL. To do this, he should procure some good manual, and thoroughly study, especially that portion which treats of the practical part of the business. If accustomed to read, think and study, he should carefully read the whole work, but, otherwise, he will avoid confusion by only studying the meth- ods of practice, leaving the principles and science to strengthen, and be strengthened by, his experience. Unless a student, he had better not take a journal till he begins the actual work, as so much unclassified information, without any expe- rience to correct, arrange, and select, will but mystify. For the same reason, he may well be content with reading a single work, till experience, and a thorough study of this one, make him more able to discriminate; and the same reasoning will preclude his taking more than one bee-periodical, until he has had at least a year’s actual experience. VISIT SOME APIARIST. In this work of self-preparation, he will find great aid in visiting the nearest successful and intelligent apiarist. If successful, such a one will have a reputation; if intelligent, he will take the journals, and will show by his conversation that he knows the methods and views of his brother apiarists, and, 8 114 Rules for the Beginner. above all, he will not think he knows i¢ all, and that his is the only way to success. Learn all you can of such a one, but always let your own judgment and common sense sit as umpire, that you may make no plans or decisions that your judgment does not fully sustain. TAKE A COLLEGE COURSE. Tt will be most wise to take a course in some College, if age makes this practicable, where apiculture is thoroughly dis- cussed. Here you will not only get the best training in your chosen business, as you will study, see and handle, and thus will have the very best aids to decide as to methods, system and apparatus, but you will also receive that general culture, which will greatly enhance life’s pleasures and usefulness, and which ever proves the best capital in any vocation. DECIDE ON A PLAN. After such a course as suggested above, it will be easy to decide as to location, hives, style ot honey to raise, and gen- eral system of management. But here, as in all the arts, all our work should be preceded by a well-digested plan of operations. As with the farmer and the gardener, only he who works to a plan can hope for the best success. Of course, such plans will vary as we grow in wisdom and experience. A good maxim to govern all plans is, ‘‘go slow.” .A good rule, which will insure the above, ‘‘Pay as you go.’ Make the apiary pay for all improvements in advance. Demand that each year’s credits exceed its debits; and that you may surely accomplish this, keep an accurate account of all your receipts and expenses. This will be a great aid in arranging the plans for each successive year’s operations. Above all, avoid hobbies, and be slow to adopt sweeping changes. ‘‘Prove all things, and hold fast that which is ood.” ae HOW TO PROCURE FIRST COLONIES, To procure colonies from which to form an apiary, it is always best to get them near at hand. We thus avoid the shook of transportation, can see the bees before we purchase, and in case there is any seeming mistake can easily gain a personal explanation and secure a speedy adjustment of any real wrong. Rules for Purchasing. 115 KIND OF BEES TO PURCHASE. At the same price always take Italians, as certainly they are best for the beginner. If black bees can be secured for three, or even for two dollars less per colony, by all means take them, as they can be Italianized at a profit for the differ- ence in cost, and, in the operation, the young apiarist will gain valuable experience. Our motto will demand that we only purchase strong col- onies. If, as recommended, the purchaser sees the colonies before the bargain is closed, it will be easy to know that the colonies are strong. If the bees, as they come rushing out, remind you of Vesuvius at her best, or bring to mind the gush and rush at the nozzle of the fireman’s hose, then buy. In the hives of such colonies, all combs will be covered with bees, and in the honey season, brood will be abundant. It is always wisest to begin with few bees. He will zenerally suc- ceed best who commences with not more than four or five col- onies. IN WHAT KIND OF HIVES. As plans. are already made, of course it is settled as to the style of hive to be used. If bees can be procured in such hives, they will be worth just as much more than though in any other hive, as it costs to make the hive and transfer the bees. This will be certainly as much as two or three dollars. No apiarist will tolerate, unless for experiment, two styles of hives in his apiary. Therefore, unless you find bees in such hives as you are to use, it will be best to buy them in box hives and transfer (see Chapter VII.) to your own hives, as bees in box hives can always be bought at reduced rates.. In case the person from whom you purchase will take the hives back at a fair rate, after you have transferred the bees to your own hives, then purchase in any style of movable comb hive, as it is easier to transfer from a movable comb hive, than from a box hive. WHEN TO PURCHASE. It is safe to purchase any time in the summer. In April or May (of course you only purchase strong stocks) if in the latitude of New York or Chicago—it will be earlier further south—you can ‘afford to pay more, as-you will secure the in- 116 Location of the Apiary. crease both of honey and bees. If you desire to purchase in autumn, that you may gain by the experience of wintering, either demand that the one of whom you purchase insure the safe wintering of the bees, or else that he reduce the selling price, at least one-third, from his rates the next April. Otherwise, the novice had better wait and purchase in the spring. If you are to transfer at once, it is almost imperative that you buy in spring, as it is vexatious, especially for the novice, to transfer when the hives are crowded with brood and honey. HOW MUCH TO PAY. Of course the market, which will ever be governed by sup- ply and demand, must guide you. But to aid you, I will append what at present would be a reasonable schedule of spring prices almost anywhere in the United States: For box hives, crowded with black bees—Italians would rarely be found in such hives—five dollars per colony is a fair price. For black bees in hives such as you desire to use, eight dollars would be reasonable. For pure Italians in such hives, ten dollars is not too much. If the person of whom you purchase will take back the movable hives after you transfer the bees, you can afford to ay five dollars for black bees, and seven dollars for pure talians. Ifyou purchase in the fall, require 334 per cent. discount on these rates. WHERE TO LOCATE. If apiculture is an avocation, then your location will be fixed by your principal business or profession. And here I may state that, if we may judge from reports which come from nearly every section of the United States, from Maine to Texas, and from Florida to Oregon, you can hardly go amiss anywhere in our goodly land. If you are to engage as a specialist, then you can select first with reference to society and climate, after which it will be well to secure a succession of natural honey-plants (Chap. XVIL.), by virtue of your locality. It will also be well to look for reasonable prospects of a good home market, as good home markets are,and must ever be, the most desirable. It will be desirable, too, that your neighborhood is not overstocked Where to Locate. 117 with bees. It is a well-established fact, that apiarists with few colonies receive relatively larger profits than those with large apiaries. While this may be owing in part to better care, much doubtless depends on the fact that there is not an undue proportion of bees to the number of honey-plants, and conse- quent secretion of nectar. To have the undisputed monopoly of an area reaching at least four miles in every direction from your apiary, is unquestionably a great advantage. If you desire fo havin two kinds of business, so that your dangers from possible misfortune may be lessened, then a small farm—especially a fruit farm—in some locality where fruit-raising is successfully practiced, will be very desirable. You thus add others of the luxuries of life to the products of your business, and at the same time may create additional asturage for your bees by simply attending to your other usiness. In this case, your location becomes a more complex matter, and will demand still greater thought and attention. Some of Michigan’s most successful apiarists are also noted as successful pomologists. For position and arrangement of apiary see Chapter VI. 118 Box Hives. CHAPTER V. HIVES AND SECTIONS. An early choice among the innumerable hives is of course demanded ; and here let me state with emphasis, that none of the standard hives are now covered by patents, so let no one buy rights. Success by the skillful apiarist with almost any hive is possible. Yet, without question, some hives are far superior to others, and for certain uses, and with certain persons, some hives are far preferable to others, though all may be meritorious. Asa change in hives, after one is once engaged in apiculture, involves much time, labor, and expense, this becomes an important question, and one worthy of earnest consideration by the pros- pective apiarist. I shall give it a first place, and a thorough consideration, in this discussion of practical apiculture. BOX-HIVES. I feel free to say that no person who reads, thinks, and studies —and success in apiculture can be promised to no other—will ever be content to use the old box-hives. In fact, thought and intelligence, which imply an eagerness to investigate, are essen- tial elements in the apiarist’s character, and to such a one a box- hive would be valued just in proportion to the amount of kindling-wood it contained. I shall entirely ignore box-hives in the following discussions, for I believe no sensible, intelligent apiarists, such as read books, will tolerate them, and that, sup- posing they would, it would be an expensive mistake which I have no right to encourage, in fact am bound to discourage, not only for the benefit of individuals but also for the art itself. To be sure of success, the apiarist must be able to inspect the whole interior of the hive at his pleasure, must be able to exchange combs from one hive to another, and to regulate the movements of the bees—by destroying queen-cells, by giving or withholding drone-comb, by extracting the honey, by intro- ducing queens, and by many other manipulations to be ex- plained, which are only practicable with a movable comb hive. MOVABLE COMB HIVES. There are, at present, two types of the movable comb hive in use among us, each of which is unquestionably valuable, as each Movable Comb Hives. 119 has advocates among our most intelligent, successful, and exten- sive apiarists. ach, too, has been superseded by the other, to the satisfaction of the person making the change. Thekind most used consists of a box, in which hang the frames which hold the combs. The adjacent frames are so far separated that the combs, which just fill them, shall be the proper distance apart. In the other kind, the frames are wider than the comb, and when in position are close together, and of themselves form two sides of abox. When in use, these frames are surrounded by a second box, without a bottom, which, with them, rests on a bottom board. Each of these kinds is represented by various forms, sizes, etc., where the details are varied to suit the apiarist’s notion. Yet, I believe that all hives in present use, worthy of reeommen- dation, fall within one or the other of the above named types. ‘EARLY FRAME HIVES. Tn 1848, Mr. Agustus Munn, of England, invented a mov able comb hive (Fig. 34), which I need hardly say was not the Fig, 34. The Munn Hive 120 Early Movable Comb Hives. Langstroth hive nor a practical one. In 1851 this hive (Fig.35) was improved (7). Well does Neighbour say in his valuable hand-book, ‘‘This invention was of no avail to apiarists.” Fia, 35. Munn’s Improved Hive. M. DeBeauvoys, of France, in 1847, and Schmidt, of Ger- many, in 1851, invented movable-comb hives. The frames were tight-fitting, and, of course, not practical. Dzierzon adopted the bar hive in 1838. In this hive each comb had to be cut loose as it was removed. THE LANGSTROTH HIVE. In 1851, our own Langstroth, without any knowledge of what foreign apiarian inventors had done, save what he could find in Huber, and edition 1838 of Bevan, invented the hive (Fig. 36) now in common use among the advanced apiarists of America. It is this hive, the greatest apiarian invention ever made, that has placed American apiculture in advance of that of all other countries. What practical bee-keeper of America could agree with H. Hamet, edition 1861, p. 166, who, in speaking of the DeBeauvoys’ hive, says that the im- Langstroth Hive. 121 proved hives were without value except to the amateur, and inferior for practical purposes? Our apiarists not native to our shores, like the late Adam Grimm and Mr. Charles Da- dant, always conceded that Mr. Langstroth was the inventor of this hive, and always proclaimed its usefulness... Well did the late Mr. 8. Wagner, the honest, fearless, scholarly, and truth-loving editor of the early volumes of the American Bee Journal, bimself of German origin, says: ‘‘ When Mr. Lang- stroth took up this subject, he well knew what Huber had done, and saw wherein he had failed—failing, possibly, only because he aimed at nothing more than constructing an ob- serving hive suitable for his purposes. Mr. Langstroth’s object was other and higher. He aimed at making frames movable, interchangeable, and practically serviceable in bee culture.” And how true what follows: ‘‘ Nobody before Mr. Langstroth ever succeeded in devising a mode of making and using a movable frame that was of any practical value in bee culture.” No man in the world, beside Mr. Langstroth, was so conver- sant with this whole subject as was Mr. Wagner. His extensive. library and thorough knowledge made him a competent judge. Mr. Langstroth, though he knew of no previous invention of frames contained in a case, when he made his invention, in 1851, does not profess to have been the first to have invented them. Every page of his book shows his transparent honesty, and his desire to give all due credit to other writers and invent- ors. He does claim, and very justly, to have invented the first practical frame hive, the one described in his patent, applied for in January, 1851, and in all three editions of his book. For this great invention, as well as his able researches in apiculture, as given in his invaluable book, ‘‘The Honey- Bee,” he has conferred a benefit upon our art which cannot be over-estimated, and for which we, as apiarists, cannot be too grateful. It was his book—one of my old teachers, for waich I have no word of chiding—that led me to some of the most delightful investigations of my life. It was his invention— the Langstroth hive—that enabled me to make those investi- gations. or one, I shall :iways revere the name of Lang- stroth, as a great leader in scientific apiculture, both in America and throughout the world. His name must ever stand beside those of Dzierzon and the elder Huber. Surely this hive, which left the hands of the great master in so perfect 122 Body of a Hive. a form that even the details remain unchanged by many of our first bee-keepers, should ever bear his name. Thus, though I prefer and use the size of frame first used, I believe, by Mr. Gallup, still I use the Langstroth hive. CHARACTER OF THE HIVE. The main feature of the hive should be simplicity, which would exclude doors, drawers, and traps of all kinds. The body should be made of good pine or white-wood lumber, one inch thick, thoroughly seasoned, and planed on both sides. It should be simply a plain box (Fig. 41, ¢.), without top or bottom, and of a size and form to suit the apiarist. To prevent warping, the heart surface of the board should be on the outside. In case a single board forms the top of the hive, this suggestion is even more valuable. Fig. 36. LN, at me At present our leading apiarists prefer a large hive. The hive preferred by Mr. Heddon—an eight-frame Langstroth, (Fig. 36)—contains about 2,000 cubic inches. While the Fie. 37. Hl ay Ma y aM Body of the Hive. 123 ten-frame Langstroth (Fig. 37), the one recommended by Mr. A. I. Root, contains more than 2,500 cubic inches. Were I to use a two-story hive (Fig. 41), I should prefer about 2,500 cubic inches. If the one-and-one-half story is used (Fig. 38), then I prefer upwards of 3,400 cubic inches. This is the size pore by Mr. Doolittle. Messrs. Hetherington, L. C. ot and Nellis use a hive larger still. If the hive is to be a two-story one—that is, one hive above a similar hive below (Fig. 41)—I prefer that it should be eighteen inches long, twelve inches wide, and twelve inches deep, inside measure. If simply small frames or sections are to be used above (Fig. 38), I would have the hive at least Fig. 38. + Story.and Onc-Half Hive. a—Body. b, e—Shoulders, d—Frame. e—Tia. two feet long. A three-fourths inch rabbet should be cut from the top of the sides or ends, as the apiarist prefers, on the inside (Fig. 41).. The rabbet may a a little more than one-half the thickness of the board. “My late hives are with- out this rabbet (Fig. 38). These are simpler, and with many others I think I prefer them. Then the hive is only eleven 124 Bevel-Gauge. and one-fourth inches deep, instead of twelve. Heavy tin strips (Fig. 41), three-fourths of an inch wide, should be tacked to the side below the rabbet, so as to reach one-fourth ef an inch above the shoulder. In case there is no rabbet (Fig. 38, ¢), these tins are nailed to the side of the hive so as to project one-fourth inch above the side. These are to bear the frames, and are convenient as they prevent the frames from becoming glued to the hive. We are thus able to loosen the frames without jarring the bees. I would not have hives without such tins, though some apiarists, among whom is Mr. James Heddon, of this State, whose rank as a successful apiarist is very high, do not like them. The objection to them is cost, and the liability of the frames to move when the hive is moved. But with their use we are not compelled to pry the frames loose, and are not so likely to irritate the bees while making an examination of the contents of the hive, which arguments are conclusive with me. Any one who is not a skilled mechanic, especially if he has not a buzz-saw, had better join the sides of his hives after the style of making common dry-goods boxes. In this case, the sides not rabbeted should project by (Fig. 36), else the corners will have to be stopped up where they were rabbeted. In case we do not rabbet, either the ends or sides may project by. In such cases many rabbet the corners so as to make astronger joint. : Tho mechanic may prefer to bevel the ends of the boards, and unite them by a mitre-joint (Fig. 41). This looks a little better, otherwise is not superior to the other method. It is difficult to form accurate joints, and as everything about the hive should be ACCURATE and UNIFORM, this style is not to be recommended to the general apiarist. To mitre with a hand- saw, unless one is very skillful, requires a perfect mitre- box, and, even then, much care ig required to secure perfect joints. With a buzz-saw this is easier. We have only to make a carrier as follows: Take two boards (Fig. 39, a, b), each one foot in length, and dove-tail them together, as though with two others you meant to make a square box. Be sure that they form a perfect right angle. Then bevel the ends opposite the angle, and unite these with a third board (Fig. 39, ©), firmly nailed to the others. We thus have a triangular pyramid. Through one of the shorter faces make . Bottom Board of Hive. 125 longitudinal slits (Fig. 39, d), so that this can be bolted firmly to the saw-table. In use, the longer face will reach the saw, and from thence will slant up and back. Along the back edge of this a narrow board (Fig. 39, e) should be nailed, which will project an inch above it. This will keep the board to be beveled in line with the carrier, and will retain the right angles. Of course the boards for the hive must be perfect rectangles, and of just the right length and width, before the bevels are cut. Fia. 39. Bevel-Grauge. Such a carrier (Fig 39) I ordered for my Barnes’ saw, from a cabinet-maker. It was made of hard wood, all three joints dove-tailed, and nicely finished, at a cost of $1.50. In sawing the ends and sides of the hive, whether by hand or with a buzz-saw, use should be made of a guide, so that perfect uniformity will be secured. THE BOTTOM BOARD. For a bottom board or stand (Fig. 40), we should have a single one-inch board (Fig. 40, a) just as wide as the hive, and four inches longer, if the bees are to enter at the end of the hive, and as long, and four inches wider, if the bees are to enter at the side. ‘This is nailed to two pieces of two-by-four scantling (Fig. 40, 6, 6). Thus the hive rests four inches from the ground. A bottom board no wider than the hive, which shall be simply a bottomless box four inches high, has 126 Bottom and Alighting Boards. decided advantage. Bees can never cluster under it while being manipulated in summer, and in winter by simply turn- ing it over and partially filling with chaff, or saw-dust, we help to protect against cold and damp and give more room below the frames. THE ALIGHTING BOARD. This should be separate from the bottom board (Fig. 40, ec). It is made by sawing a piece of two-by-four scantling, eight inches long, diagonally across from two of the shortest edges, ‘These two pieces (Fig. 40, d) thus formed become rests for a Fic. 40. ~-Bottom board. 6, b--Supports. o-Alighting board. d—Supports. | board eight inches square (Fig. 40, ¢), it may be longer as in the cut, which is nailed on to the sawed surfaces. We thus have a slanting alighting-board separate from the hive. Should the apiarist desire his bees to enter at the side of the hive, the alighting-board (Fig. 40, ¢) should be changed to the side (Fig. 41). I have tried both, and see no difference, so the matter may be controlled by the taste of the apiarist. For an opening to the hive (Fig. 41), we may bevel the middle of the edge of the bottom board, next to the inclined board. At the edge, this bevel should be three-quarters of an inch deep and four inches wide. It may decrease in both width and depth as it runs back, until at a distance of four inches it is one-half of an inch wide and five thirty-seconds of an inch deep. This may terminate the opening, though the shoulder at the end may be beveled off if desired. With this bottom board the bees are near the ground, and with the slanting-board in front even the most tired and heavily-laden will not fail to gain the hive, as they come in with their load of stores. In the spring, too, many bees are saved, as they come in on windy days, by low hives and an Cover of Hive. 127 alighting-board. No hive should be more than four inches from the ground, except in very damp regions where it may be raised somewhat higher, and no hive should be without the slanting alighting-board. With this opening the entrance can be contracted in case of robbing, or entirely closed when de- sired, by simply moving the hive back. Some apiarists cut an opening in the side of the hive, and regulate the size by tin slides or triangular blocks (Fig. 36); others form an opening by sliding the hive forward beyond ihe bottom board—which I would do with the above (Fig. 41) in hot weather when storing was very rapid. I strongly urge that only one opening be used. Auger holes about the hive, and entrances on two sides, are worse than useless. .By enlarging this opening, we secure araple ventilation, even in sultry August, and when we contract the entrance no bees are lost by finding the usual door closed. Some of our best bee-keepers, as Messrs. Heddon, Jones, Baldridge, and others, prefer that the bottom board be nailed to the hive (Fig. 36). Such hives will not permit a quick clear- ing of the bottom board, when we give a cleansing flight m winter, or when we commence operationsin spring, and with their use we cannot contract the opening in cold weather, or to stop robbing, without the blocks or tins. Svmplicity should be the motto in )ive-making. The arguments in favor of such fasten- ing are: Convenience in moving colonies and in feeding, as we have not to fasten the bottoms when we desire to ship our bees, and to feed we have only to pour liquids into the hives It is probable that the fastened bottom boards have substantial advantage in large apiaries where colonics are often moved, or where sales of bees are frequent. Of course, such points are not essential—only matters of convenience. Let each one decide for himself, which expe- rience will enable him to do. THE COVER OF THE HIVE. The cover (Fig. 41, a) should be about six inches high, and like the lid of a trunk. The length and breadth may be the same as the body of the hive, and fit on with beveled edges (Fig. 41, a) the body having the outer edge beveled, and the cover the inner. If we thus join the cover and hive with @ mitered-joint, we must not be satisfied with anything less 128 Cover cf Hive. than perfection, else in case of storms the rain will beat into our hives, which should never be permitted. Such covers can be fastened to the hives with hinges, or by hooks and staples. But unless the apiarist is skilled in the use of tools, or hires a mechanic to make his hives, it will be more satisfactory to Fig, 41. Two Story Hive. e—Lower story. b—Upper story. make the cover just large enough (Fig. 36) to shut over and rest on shoulders formed either by nailing inch strips around the body of the hive (Fig. 38, ¢), one inch from the top, or else inside the cover (Fig. 86). If it is preferred to have a Second Story of Hive. 129 two-story hive, with the upper story (Fig. 41, 6) just like the lower (Fig. 41, c), this may join the lower by a miter-joint, while a cover (Fig. 41, @), two inches high, may join this with a similar joint. If the upper story shuts over the lower and rests on a shoulder (Fig. 38, f) it may still be made to take the same sized frame, by nailing pieces one-half an inch square to the corners, whose length shall equal the distance from the rabbet in the lower story'to the bottom board. We then nail to these upright pieces, parallel to the rabbeted faces below, a three- eights inch board as wide as the pieces are long. The top of these thin boards will take the place of the rabbet in the lower story. This style, which is adopted in the two-story hives as made by Mr. Langstroth (Fig. 36), will permit in the upper story the same frames as used in the lower story, while two more can be inserted. Upon this upper story a shallow cover will rest. Such covers, if desired, may be made roof-like (Fig. 42), by cutting end pieces (Fig. 42, 6) in form of the gable of a house. In this case there will be two slanting boards (Fig. 42, a, a), instead of one that is horizontal, to carry off the rain. The slanting boards should project at the ends (Fig. 42, d), for convenience in handling. In such covers we need thin, narrow ridge-boards (Fig. 42, ¢), to keep all perfectly dry. These covers look neat, are not so apt to check, and will dry much quicker after a rain. Tfewe secure comb-honey in crates, and winter out-doors— in which case we shall need to protect in the Northern States— it will be convenient to havea box (Fig. 38) of the same general form as the main body of the hive, from six to eight inches deep, just large enough to set over the body of the hive and rest on shoulder-strips, and without top or bottom; this to have such a cover as just described. Such is the arrangement of the noted apiarist James Heddon, Southard and Ranney, of Kala- 9 130 Frames. mazoo, and many others, which, on the score of simplicity. and convenience, has much to recommend it. Mr. Heddon makes his crate serve this purpose, and has his hives well shaded, In the above I have said nothing about porticos (Fig. 36). If hives are shaded as they should be, these are useless, and I belicve that in no case will they pay. To be sure, they are nice for spider-webs, and a shady place in which bees may cluster; but such are inconvenient places to study the wondrous fabrics of the spider, even were hea friend of the bees, and the most successful apiarist will not force his bees to hang in idle clusters about the hive. Mr. George Grimm, however, thinks much of the portico. He practices moving his bees frequently, and in cool weather has to give no other ventilation than that secured by nailing wire gauze over the portico. THE FRAMES. The form and size of frames, though not quite as various as Fig. 48. 1834 12 3 & QUINBY. x AMERICAN, 17% é 11% LanastrorH. * GALLUP. © t ae 13% " ADAIR, X& 19% CLOsED END QuINBY. [ the persons who use them, are still very different (Fig. 43). Some prefer large frames. I first used the Quinby frame, and The Gallup Frame. 131 afterward the Langstroth (Fig. 48). The advantage claimed fox large frames is that there are less to handle, and time is saved; yet may not smaller frames be handled so much more dexterously, especially if they are to be handled through all the long day, as to compensate, in part at least, for the num- ker The advantage of the shallow frame is, as claimed, that the bees will go into boxes more readily; yet they are not con- sidered so safe for out-door wintering. This is the style recom- mended and used by Mr. Langstroth, which fact may account for its popularity in the United States. Another frame in common use, is one about one foot square. I use one eleven and one-fourth inches square. The reasons that I prefer this form are, that the comb seldom breaks from the frame, the frames are convenient for nuclei and save the expense of, con- structing extra nucleus hives, and these frames permit the most compact arrangement for winter and spring, and thus enable us to economize heat. By use of a division board, we can, by using eight of these frames, occupy just a cubic foot of space in spring, and by repeated experiments I have found that a hive so constructed that the bees always cover the combs during the early cold weather, always gives the best results. Dr. Tinker, of Ohio, showed by ample statistics, thatin thesevere winter of 1882-3 the Gallup frame did prove by far the best. As the honey season comes on more can be added, till we have reached twelve, as many, I think, as will ever be needed for brood. This was the size of frame preferred by Mr. Gallup, and is the one used by Messrs. Davis and Doolittle, Dr. Tinker, and many others of our most successful apiarists. That this size is imperative is, of course, not true; that. it combines as many desirable points as any other, I think is true. For apiarists who are not very strong, especially for ladies, it is beyond question superior to all others. That we shall ever have a uniform frame used by all apiarists, though exceedingly desirable, is too much to expect or even hope. I do not think that there is sufficient advantage in any form to warrant us to hold to it, if by yielding we cou secure this uniformity. As will be seen in the British Bee Journal, 1882, p. 243, our British brothers are striving for this, and have adopted a frame eight and one-half by fourteen inches. Our North American Association might move in the same direction. Nor do I think the form and size so material 132 Frame-Making. to success as to make it generally desirable for the apiarist to, change all his hives to secure a different style of frame.~ 4 HOW TO CONSTRUCT THE FRAMES. : In this description, I shall suppose that the frames ‘desired are of the form and size (Fig. 44) which I use. It will be easy, for any who may desire, to change the form at pleasure. Fia, 44, Fie, 45. Frame, also Cross-Section of Top-Bar. For the top bar (Fig. 44, a) of the frame, use a triangular strip twelve and one-half inches long, with each face of the triangle one inch across. Seven-eighths of an inch from each end of this, form a shoulder, by sawing from one angle to within three-eighths of an inch of the opposite face, so that when the piece is split out from the end, these projections shall be just three-eighths of an inch thick throughout. The top bar of the frame should be large and strong so as never to break or even bend when in use. For the side pieces (Fig. 44, b, b), take strips ten and three-fourths inches long, seven- eighths of an inch wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick. Tack with small brads the end of two of these strips firmly to the shoulder of the top-bar, taking pains that the end touches squarely against the projection. Now tack to the opposite ends or bottoms, the ends of a similar strip (Fig. 44, d), eleven and a-fourth inches long and one eighth of an inch thick. We shall thus have a frame eleven and one-fourth inches square, outside measure. : If comb-foundation is to be used, and certainly it will be by the enterprising apiarist, then the top bar (Fig. 45, a) should be twelve and one-half inches by three-eighths by one Frame-Making. 133 inch, with a rectangular, instead of a triangular, projection below (Fig. 45, 6), which should be one-fourth by one-eighth inch, the longer diameter up and down. This should be entirely to one side of the center (Fig. 45, ¢), so that when the foundation is pressed against this piece it will hang exactly from the center of the top-bar. If preferred, the bottom of the frame (Fig. 45, e) need not be more than half as wide or thick as described above. Very soon all will use wire frames, for foundation, and the top bar will be a plain rectangle. Mr. D. A. Jones, with many others, prefers that the end bars of the frames project downward (Fig. 46) and that the bottom bar project at each end. It is thought that this saves the lives of bees, when the frames are being rapidly handled. Era. 46. RON i CUO AA iat TA AA IU a a he it ee ai a oo ei ar ee ii z a “ua Jonés Chaff Hive, Frame, Brana for Bacsions, Division Board and Perforated Zine Division Board. It is now quite the fashion to wire the frames (Fig. 110). This insures perfect safety if we wish to ship our bees, and secures against sagging or bulging of the foundation. If the foundation is put on with a press, No. 36 wire is used; if pressed on by hand No. 80 wire is better. The timber for frame should be thoroughly seasoned, and of the best pine or whité- wood. Care should be taken that the frame be made so as to hang vertically, when suspended on the rabbets of the hive. To secure this very important point—true frames that will always hang true—they should always be made around a guide. 134 Gauge for Frame-Making. A BLOCK FOR MAKING FRAMES. This may be made as follows: Take a rectangular board (Fig. 47) eleven and one-eighth by thirteen and a quarter inches. On both ends of one face of this, nail hard-wood pieces (Fig. 47, e, €) one inch square and ten and three-fourth inches long, so that one end (Fig. 47, g, g) shall lack three-eighths inch of reaching the edge of the board. On the other face of the board, nail a strip (Fig. 47, c) four inches wide and eleven and three-eighths inches long, at right angles to it, and in such position that the ends shall just reach to the edges of the board. idway between the one inch square pieces, screw on another hard-wood strip (Fig. 47, d) one inch square and four inches long, parallel with and three-fourths of an inch from the edge. To the bottom of this, screw a semi-oval piece of hoop-steel (Fig. 47, b, 6), which shall bend around and press against the square strips. The ends of this should not reach quite to the bottom of the board. Near the ends of this spring fasten, by rivets, a leather strap an inch wide (Fig. 47, a), which shall be straight when thus riveted. These dimensions are for frames eleven and one-fourth inches square, outside measure, and must be varied for other sizes. Instead of the iron and strap, some use two pieces of wood with a central pivot. The upper ends of these levers are united by a strong elastic cord, so that the lower ends are constantly pressed against the side pieces of the block. To use this block, we crowd the end-bars of our frames between the steel springs (Fig. 47, 6, 6), and the square strips (Fig. 47, e, e); then lay on our top-bar and nail, after which we invert the block and nail the bottom-bar, as we did the top-bar. Now press down on the strap (Fig. 47, a), which will loosen the frame, when it may be removed, all complete and true. Such a gauge not only insures perfect frames, but demands that every piece shall be cut with great accuracy; and some such arrangement should always be used in making the frames. The projecting ends of the top-bar will rest on the tins (Fig. 41), and thus the frame can be easily loosened at any time without jarring the bees, for it will not be glued fast, as it would be in case it rested on the wooden rabbets. The danger of killing bees is also abolished by use of the tins. Cover for the Frames. 135 When the frames are in the hive there should be a three- eighths inch space between the sides and bottom of he rames, and the sides and bottom of the hive. A much mider space would very likely receive the comb, and be troublesome. Frames that fit close in the hive, or that reach to the bottom, are very inconvenient and undesirable. To secure against this, our lumber must be thoroughly seasoned, else when shrinkage takes place our frames may touch the bottom-board. Fic. 47. The distance between the frames may be one-half of an inch, though a slight variation either way does no harm. Some men, of very precise habits, prefer nails or wire staples in the side of the frames (as already stated, Mr. Jones prolongs the sides and bottom of the frame for the same purpose) at top and bottom, which project just a quarter of an inch, so as to mairtain this unvarying distance; or staples in the bottom of the hive to secure the same end. Mr. Langstroth so arranged his frames, and Mr. Palmer, of Hart, Michigan, whose neat- ness is only surpassed by his success, does the same thing. I have had hives with these extra attachments, but found in them no special advantage. I think we can regulate the distance with the eye, so as to meet every practical demand, and thus save the expense and trouble which the above attachments cost. = COVER FOR FRAMES, ’ In summer I prefer oil-cloth to cover the frames. This is used with the glazed or enameled side down, and should be 136 Division Board. just the size of the hive. This is durable, is not covered so quickly with propolis, and is easily cleaned. Some keep this on in winter, but I prefer a porouscover. From the cold days of fall to the warm spring days, I replace the enamel-cloth covers with those made of the best factory cloth. As these are just the size of the hive when once properly on, the bees can never get above them. By cutting on three sides of a square, one inch on aside, we form a flap which, when we desire to feed, may be turned back and the hole of the feeder placed right above it.. Mr. Langstroth used a board which he called the Honey Board, above the frames, which Mr. Heddon uses even now. This has long narrow openings in it, through which the bees can pass to the sections above. Perhaps Mr. Heddon never used cloth covers. Perhaps his love of order and neatness caused him to discard them. Still, I feel grateful towards Mr. A. I. Root for calling my attention to these warm, soft, flexible covers. DIVISION BOARD. A close-fitting division board (Fig. 48) for contracting the brood chamber, is very important, and though unappreciated by many. excellent apiarists, yet I think no hive is complete without it. : Fia. 48. I find it especially valuable in winter and spring, and useful at all seasons. It is made of the same form as the frames, though all below the top-bar—which consists of a strip thirteen inches, by one inch, by three-eights, nailed firmly to the noard below—is a solid inch board (Fig. 48, 6), which is exactly one foot square, so that it fits closely to the inside of the hive. If The Huber Hive. 137 desired, the edges (Fig. 48, c, ¢) can be beveled, as seen in the figure. When this is inserted in the hive it entirely separates the chamber into two chambers, sc that an insect much smaller than a bee could not pass from the one to the other. Mr. A. I. Root makes one of cloth, chaff, etc. Yet, I think few apiarists would bother with so much machinery. Mr. W. L. Porter, once Secretary of the Michigan Association, makes the board a little loose, and then inserts a rubber strip in a groove sawed in the edges. This keeps the board snug, and makes its inser- tion easy, even though heat may shrink or damp may swell either the board or hive. I have not tried this, but like the suggestion. Mr. D. A. Jones prefers that the division-board should not reach quite to the bottom of the hive (Fig. 46). The us of the division board is to contract the chamber in winter, to vary it so as to keep combs covered in Spring, to con- vert the hive into a nucleus hive, and to contract the chamber in the upper-story of a two-story hive, when first adding frames to secure surplus comb honey. THE HUBER HIVE, The other type of hives originated whon Huber hinged several of his leaf or unicomb hives together so that the frames would open like the leaves of a book. In August, 1779, Huber wrote to Bonnet as follows: ‘I took several small fir boxes, a foot square and fifteen lines wide, and joined them together by hinges, so that they could be opened and shut like the leaves of a book. Wher. using a hive of this description, we took care to fix a comb in each frame, and then introduced all the bees.” (Edinburgh edition.of Huber, p. 4.) Although Morlot and others attempted to improve this hive, it never gained favor with practical apiarists. t In 1866, Mr. T. F. Bingham, then of New York, improved upon the Huber hive, securing a patent on his triangular frame hive. This, so far as I can judge, was the Huber hive made practical. Mr. Bingham now uses a modification of this hive (Fig. 50). In 1868, Mr. M. S. Snow, then of New York, now of Min- nesota, procured a patent on his hive, which was essentially the same as the hives now known as the Quinby and Bingham hives. 138 The Quinby Hive. Soon after, the late Mr. Quinby brought forth his hive, which is essentially the same as the above, only differing in details. No patent was obtained by Mr. Quinby, whose great heart and boundless generosity endeared him to all acquaint- ances. Those who knew him best, never tire of praising the unselfish acts and life of this noble man. If we except Mr. Langstroth, no other man has probably done so much to pro- mote the interest and growth of improved apiculture in the United States. His hive, his book, his views of wintering, his introduction of the bellows-smoker—a gift to apiarists—all speak his praise as a man and an apiarist. The facts that the Bingham hive, as now made, is a great favorite with those that have used it, that Mr. Quinby pre- ferred this style or type of hive, that the Quinby form is used by the Hetherington brothers, Captain J. E., the prince of American apiarists, and O. J., whose neatness, precision, and mechanical skill are enough to awaken envy, are surely sufficient to excite curiosity and bespeak a description. The Quinby hive (Fig. 49), as used by the Hetherington brothers, consists of a series of rectangular frames (Fig. 49) twelve by seventeen inches, outside measure. The ends of these frames are one and a half inches wide and half an inch fia. 49. Gre g- Frame. Bottom-board and Frame-Support, of Quinby Hive. thick. The top and bottom one inch wide and half an inch thick. The outer half of the end bars projects one-fourth of an inch beyond the top and bottom bars. This projection is lined on the inside with sheet iron, which is inserted in a groove which runs one inch into each end of the end-pieces and is The Bingham Hive. 139 tacked by the same nails that fasten the end-bars to the top and bottom-bars. ‘This iron at the end of the bar bends in at right-angles (Fig. 49, a), and extends one-fourth of an inch eo with the top and bottom-bars. Thus, when these mes stand side by side, the ends are close, while half-inch openings extend between the top and bottom-bars of adjacent frames. The bottom-bars, too, are one-fourth of an inch from the bottom-board. Tacked to the bottom-board, in line with the position of the back end-bars of the frames, isan inch strip of sheet-iron (Fig. 49, b, b) sixteen inches in length. One- third of this strip, from the front edge back, is bent over so it lies not quite in contact with the second third, while.the pos- terior third receives the tacks which hold it to the bottom- board. Now, when in use this iron flange receives the hooks on the corners of the frames, so that the frames are held firmly, and can only be moved back and side-wise. In looking at the bees we can separate the combs at once, at any place. The chamber can be enlarged or diminished simply by adding or withdrawing frames. As the hooks are on all four corners of the frames, the frames can be either end back, or either side up. This arrangement, which permits the inversion of the frames, is greatly praised by those who have tried it. It is claimed, that by turning a frame bottom up the comb will be fastened above and below, and the bees, in their haste to carry the honey from the bottom of the frames, will rush at once into the sections. Boards with iron hooks close the side of the brood cavity, while a cloth covers the frames. The entrance (Fig 49, e) is cut in the bottom-board as already explained, except that the lateral edges are kept parallel. A strip of sheet-iron (Fig. 49, d) is tacked across this, on which rest the ends of the front end-bars of the frames which stand above, and underneath which pass the bees as they come to and go from the hive. A box, without bottom and with movable top, covers all, leaving a space from four to six inches above and on all sides between it and the frames. This gives chance to pack with chaff in winter, and for side and top storing in sections in summer. The Bingham hive (Fig. 50) is not only remarkably simple, but is as remarkable for its shallow depth; the frames being only five inches high. These have no bottori-bar. The end- bars are one and a half inches wide, and the top-bar square. 140 The Huber Type of Hives. The nails that hold the end-bars pass into the end of the top bar, which is usually placed diagonally, so that an edge, not a face, is below; though some are made with a face below (Fig. 50, f), to be used when comb is transferred. The frames are held together by two wires, one at each end. Each wire (Fig. 50, a) is.a little longer than twice the width of the hive when the maximum number of frames are used. The Fia. 50. ends of each wire are united and placed about nails (Fig. 50, b, 6) in the ends of the boards (Fig, 50, ¢, ¢)which form the sides of the brood-chamber. A small stick (Fig. 50, a) spreads these wires, and brings the frames close together. box without bottom and with movable cover, is placed about the frames. This is large and high enough to permit of chaff packing in winter and spring. The bottom board may be made like the one already described. Mr. Bingham does not bevel the bottom-board, but places lath under three sides of the brood-chamber, the lath being nailed to the bottom-board. He ae the Langstroth blocks to contract the entrance (Fig. 50, g)- i ie The advantages of this hive are, simplicity, great space above for surplus frames or boxes, capability of being placed one hive above another to any height desired, while the frames may be reversed, end for end, or bottom for top, or the whole brood-chamber turned up-side down. Thus, by doubling, we may have a depth of ten inches for winter. The objection which I have found in the use of such hives, is danger of killing bees in rapid handling. They can be manipulated with rapidity if we care not how many bees we crush. It hurts me to kill a bee, and so I find the Langstroth style more quickly manipulated. Mr. Snow. too, who was Comb Honey Sections. 141 the first to make the above style of hive, has discarded it in favor of the Langstroth. His objection to the above, is the fact that the various combs are not sure to be so built as to be interchangeable. Yet that such apiarists as those above nam- ed prefer these Huber hives, after long use of the other style, is certainly not without significance. OBSERVING HIVE. To study bees while they are at work, requires a hive so constructed that we can look in upon all the bees of the hive at pleasure. For this purpose, I have used a small Lang- stroth hive (Fig. 51), containing”one frame. Glass is used Fig, 51. Observing Hive. each side of the frame and this is shaded by doors, hung on hinges. We are able to look at the bees or make all dark in. side at pleasure. . To prevent the hive from becoming too crowded, we must every twenty-three or four days shake the bees from the frame and replace the latter with another frame, which shall contain no brood. From such a hive in my study window, I have received much pleasure and information. APPARATUS FOR PROCURING COMB-HONEY. Although I feel sure that extracted honey will grow more and more in favor, yet it will never supersede the beautiful comb, which, from its exquisite flayor and attractive appear- 142 Veneer Sections. ance, has always been, and always will be, admired and desired. So, no hive is complete without its arrangement of section- frames and crates, all constructed with the view of securing this delectable comb-honey in the form that will be most tempt- ing to the eye and palate. SURPLUS COMB-HONEY IN SECTIONS. Honey in several-pound boxes is no longer marketable, and is now almost wholly replaced by comb-honey in sections. In fact, there is no apparatus for securing comb-honey that prom- ises so well as these sections. That they are just the thing to enable us to tickle the market is shown by their rapid growth in popular favor. Some years ago I predicted, at one of our State Conventions, that they would soon replace boxes, and. was laughed at. Nearly all who then laughed, now use these sections. They are cheap, and with their use we can get more honey, and in a form that will make it irresistible. REQUISITES OF GOOD SECTIONS. The wood should be white, the size just such as the market demands, the form such as is convenient to use with our hives, sc made that they may be glassed, not too ‘much cut off from brood-ch :mber. cheap, easily made, and so arranged as to be put on or taken off the hive en masse. DESCRIPTION. Since 1877, I have made neat, cheap sections, using clean white veneer, such as is used to make berry boxes. The veneer can be procured at the factories, of any width, and Fig. 52. ( Fie. 53. | f 3-16 Four Inches. 3-16 | = Cutting Edge of Chisel. © with a cross cut, so when they are bent they will be of any desired form and size. I have bent them around a block (Fig. 52), let them lap above the iron (Fig. 52, 6), and tacked them with wrought tacks. . To cut_out spaces, I_use_a Sections and Dividers. 143, chisel (Fig. 53), to cut out the space, so that the bees may enter the sections. These sections are awkward to glass, and only good for home market, as they are too frail to ship. ne are cheap and easily made. They cost about two mills each. The Hetherington brothers make a very neat section, as follows: The top and bottom are each two inches wide, of one-quarter inch white pine. These receive a groove one- eighth inch from the ends, which receives the sides, one inch wide and one-eighth inch thick, which are pressed through to a central position and glued. This section is five and a half inches square. They use wooden dividers (Fig. 54, a), one- eighth of an inch thick, as long as the seetion, but one inch Fig. 54, Fig. 55. Ab Separator. Dove-Tailea Section. less in height, so that below and above is a half-inch space, which permits the bees to pass readily from one section to another. These are held by a half-inch strip of tin (Fig. 54, b, 6), which passes through a groove (Fig. 54, ¢), in the ends of the dividers, and reaches half an inch farther ; then turns at right-angles dnd ends in a point (Fig. 54, 6), which, when in use, sticks into the top or bottom pieces; and so the four points hold the divider in place. When ready to sell, they insert half-inch glass in the grooves each side the narrow side- pieces, and with tins fasten glass on the faces, and have a very handsome section. It will be noticed that we have a half-inch space between the sections. It ought to be at least three-eighths of an inch. This makes inspection easy, aids in getting the bees out when the sections are removed, facilitates the passage of the bees, and the handling of the sections. Dr. C. C. Miller prefers sections made as are children’s toy blocks, the sides fastened by a sort of mortise and tennon 144 Nailed Sections. arrangement (Fig. 55). I have received from Mr. James Heddon a similar section, very neat and beautifully finished, which is made in Vermont. The Phelps-Wheeler-Betsinger sections (Fig. 56) are essentially the same. The top and bottom are three-eights narrower than the sides, and are nailed tothem. The Wheeler Fia. 56. Fic. 57, One Pound Section. Fie. 58. | —— i. Nailed Section. a Prize Section. section—invented and patented by Mr. Geo. T. Wheeler, Mexico, New York, in 1870—is remarkable for being the first (Fig. 64, K) to be used with tin separators (Fig. 64, IZ). Instead of making the bottoms narrower for a passage, Mr. Wheeler made an opening in the bottom. : Another style of section, termed the one-piece-section (Fig. 57), is, as its name implies, made of a single piece of wood, with three cross cuts so that it can be easily bent into a square. The fourth angle unites by notches and projections as before described (Fig. 55). This is now patented by a Mr. Farncrook, of Wisconsin; but as I made and used essentially the same thing at least four years before the patent was grant- ed, I do not see how it can be valid. Still I am no lawyer; much less a patent-right attorney. These one-piece sections are now, I think, the favorites among bee-keepers, Heretofore there have been two prevailing sizes of sections in use in the United States; the prize section (Fig. 58) which is five and one-fourth by six and one-fourth inches, and the one pound section, (Fig. 57) which is four and one-fourth inches square. The latter is coming rapidly to the front, as honey in it sells more readily than if in a larger section. Even half pound sections have taken the lead in the Boston and Chicago markets the past season. It is quite possible that these small sections will rule in the markets of the future. Sections in Frames. 145 They would often sell more readily, and are far better to ship, as the combs would seldom ever break from the sections. If, in arranging our sections, we desire to have them oblong, we better make them so that they will be longest up and down. Mr. D. A. Jones finds that -f'so made, they are filled and capped much sooner. In the depth of the section, which fixes the thickness of the comb, a change from the common style seems to be desirable. Heretofore they have been generally made two inches deep. With such sections we must use separator. to secure perfect combs. By reducing the depth to from one and three-eighth to one and three-fourth inches, the expense of separators is said to be unnecessary. We secure nicer comb for the table, and more bees are ale to work on a crate or frame of sections, so that the foundation is more speedily drawn out. . Of course any decided change in the form and size of our sections involves no small ex- pense, as it requires that the crates or frames for holding the sections should also be changed. Often, however, by a little planning we can vary the form so as to reduce the size, with- out necessitating this expense. HOW TO PLACE SECTIONS IN POSITION. There are two methods, each of which is excellent and has, as it well may, earnest advocates—one by use of frames, the other by crates. SECTIONS IN FRAMES. <‘rames for holding sections (Fig. 59) are made the same size as the frames in the brood chamber. The depth of the frame, however, is the same as the depth of the sections. The bottom bar is three-eighths of an inch narrower than the remain- der of the frame, so that when two frames are side by side, there is three-eighths of an inch space between the bottom bars, though the top and side pieces are close together. The sections are of such a size (Fig. 61, K) that four, or six, or nine, etc., will just fill one of the large frames. Nailed to one side of each large frame are two tin, or thin wooden strips (Fig. 61, t, ¢) in case separators are to be used, as long as the frame, and as wide into one inch as are the sections. These are tacked half an inch from the top and the bottom of the large frames, and so are opposite the sections, thus permitting the bees to pass readily 10 146 Sections in Frames. from one tier of sections to another, as do the narrower top and bottom-bars of the sections, from those below to those above. Captain Hetherington tells me that Mr. Quinby used these Fia. 59. Gallup Section-Front. yearsago. The tin arrangement, though unlike Mr. Wheeler’s (Fig. 64, M), would be readily suggested by it. It is more trouble to make these frames if we have the tins set in so as Fic, 60. In CEC Saar EST, Perforated Zine Division-Board. just to come flush with the edge of the end-bars of the frames, but then the frames would hang close together, and would not be so stuck together with propolis. These may be hung in the " Crates for Sections. 147 second story of a two-story hive, and just so many as to fill the same—my hives will take nine—or they can be put below, beside the brood-combs. Mr. Doolittle, in case he hangs these below, inserts a perforated division-board, so that the queen will not enter the sections and lay eggs. The perforated zinc division-board (Fig. 60) would serve admirably for this purpose. A honey-board of the same material keeps sections, either in crates or frames, that are above the hive, neat, and also keeps the queen from entering them. The workers enter just as freely. In long hives, the ‘‘ New Idea”—which I find very satis- factory, after several years’ trial, especially for extracted honey —I have used these frames of sections, and with the best suc- cess. The Italians enter them at once, and fill them even more quickly than other bees fill the sections in the upper === Gallup Frame with Sections. story. In fact, one great advantage of these sections in the frames is the obvious and ample passage-ways, inviting the bees to enter them. But in our desire to make ample and inviting openings, caution is required that we do not over-do the matter, and invite the queen to injurious intrusion. So we have Charybdis and Scylla, and must, by study, learn to so steer between as to avoid both dangers, ; 148 Sections in Crates. A Mr. Jones finds that by using the division-board made of perforated zinc (Fig. 60), the queen is kept from the sections, and they can be safely placed in one end of the body of the hive. The coming summer I shall use six sections in the Gallup frame, each one, five and one-fourth by three and one-half Fig. 62. Langstroth Frame with One Pound Sections. inches, and shall try some no thicker than one and three-eighths inches. Figure 62 shows a Langstroth frame full of one pound sections. : CRATES OR RACKS. These (Fig. 387) are to use in lieu of large frames, to hold sections, and are very convenient when we wish to set the sec- tions only one deep above the brood-chamber. Though, if desired, we can place one rack above another, as practiced by Mr. James Heddon, and so have sections two, and even three deep. Fic. 63, Crate for Sections. Bouthard and Raney, of Kalamazoo, use a very neat rack (Fig: 63), in which they use the thin veneer sections. The Racks and Crates. 149 sheet-iron rests (Fig. 63, H, H, H), with their bent edges, just raise the rack one-fourth of an inch from the brood frames. r. Heddon uses a similar crate without the iron strips. The Wheeler rack (Fig. 64) simply holds the sections, while each section is glassed separately. Fig. 64. Wheeler Rack. The most common crate now in use (Fig. 65) is simple and cheap. Long tins (Fig. 65, 6, 6b) extend between the rows of sections, though these may be wood, the outside sections Sections in Crate. receive glass (Fig. 65, ¢, ¢), while a clamp (Fig. 65, a) wedges the sections firmly in position. Captain Hetherington sets a rack of sections above the frames, and stands sections one above the other on the side for side storing. Mr. Doolittle makes a rack by placing frames, such as I have described—except they are only half as high, 150 Foot Power Saw. and hold pout two sections—side by side, where they are held by tacking a stick on top across each end of the row. He also places two tiers, two deep, at each end of the brood- chamber, if he desires to give so much room. Mr. Adam Grimm once wrote that boxes above the hive should not be closely covered. As already stated, Mr. Heddon puts no close cover over his sections. Mr. Hasty is pleased with simply a cloth, cheap muslin, about his sections and a board cover to protect from rains. Such ventilation of the sections is scientific as well as practical. All apiarists who desire to work for comb honey that will sell, will certainly use the sections, and adjust them by use of either frames or crates. Each method has its friends, though I think crates are taking the lead. FOOT POWER 8AW. Every apiarist, who keeps only a few bees, will find, if he makes his own hives, a foot power saw very valuable. I have used, with great satisfaction, the admirably combined foot power saw of W. F. & John Barnes. It permits rapid work, insures uniformity, and enables the apiarist to give a finish to his work that would rival that of the cabinet-maker. Those who procure such a machine should learn to file and set the saw, and should never run the machine when not in perfect order. When just beginning the business it will generally be wise to secure a fully equipped hive of some bee-keeper or dealer in supplies. If there is a hive factory near at hand, it may pay to buy all hives ready made; otherwise high freights make this unprofitable. If a person wishes to manufacture hives by the score, either for himself or others, even the foot power saw will soon become too slow and wearying. In this case some use wind power, which is too uncertain to give full satis- faction; others use horse-power, and still others procure a small steam engine. Mr. M. H. Hunt, a very thoughtful apiarist, uses a very convenient horse power (Fig. 66). The large wheel is fifteen feet in diameter, the horse is inside the rim, and the band con- sists of a chain, that it may not slip. To get the horse in position, the wheel is lowered. Horse Power. 151 Fia. 66. XU Hy , (ee he TL i i “dl IN GN ; Na ANT MNGi" ‘ ott Horse Power. In case we use other than foot or hand power, our saw table Fia.. 67. Saw Table. must be firm and heavy. The one illustrated here (Fig. 67) is recommended by Mr. A. I. Root. 182 Apiary Grounds. CHAPTER VI. POSITION AND ARRANGEMENT OF APIARY. As it is desirable to have our apiary grounds so fixed as to give the best results, and as this costs some money and more labor, it should be done once for all. As plan and execution in this direction must needs precede even the purchase of bees, this subject deserves an early consideration. Hence we will proceed to consider position, arrangement of grounds, and preparation for each individual colony. POSITION. Of course, it is of the first importance that the apiary be near at hand. In city or village this is imperative. In the country, or at suburban homes, we have more choice, but close proximity to the house is of much importance. In a city it may be necessary to follow friend Muth’s example, and locate on the house-tops, where, despite the inconvenience, we may achieve success. The lay of the ground is not important, though if a hill, it should not be very steep. It may slope in any direction, but better any way than toward the north. ARRANGEMENT OF GROUNDS. Unless sandy, these should be well drained. If a grove offers inviting shade, accept it, but trim high to avoid damp. Such a grove could soon be formed of bass-wood and tulip trees, which, as we shall see, are very desirable, as their bloom offers plenteous and most delicioushoney. Even Virgil urged shade of palm and olive, also that we screen the bees from winds. Wind-screens are very desirable, especially on the windward side. Such a screen may be formed of a tall board fence, which, if it surrounds the grounds, will also serve to protect against thieves. Yet these are gloomy and forbidding, and will be eschewed by the apiarist who has an eye to esthetics. Ever-green screens, either of Norway spruce, Austrian or other pine, or arbor vite, each or all, are not only very effective, tut are quickly grown, inexpensive, and add greatly to the beauty of the grounds. If the apiary is large, Apiary Grounds. 153 a small, neat, inexpensive house, in the center of the apiary grounds is indispensable. This will serve in winter as a shop for making hives, frames, etc., and as a store-house for honey, while in summer it will be used for extracting, transferring, storing, bottling, etc. In building this, it will be well to con- struct a frost-proof, thoroughly drained, dark, and well- ventilated cellar. To secure the thorough ventilation, pass a tube, which may be made of tile, from near the bottom, through the earth to the surface; and another, from near the bottom, to the chimney or stove-pipe above (see chapters XVIII and XIX). PREPARATION FOR EACH COLONY. Virgil was right in recommending shade for each colony. Bees are forced to cluster outside the hive, if the hives are subjected to the full force of the sun’s rays. By the intense heat, the temperature inside becomes like that of an oven, and the wonder is that they do not desert entirely. Ihave known hives, thus unprotected, to be covered with bees, idling out- side, when by simply shading the hives, all would go merrily to work. The combs, too, and foundation especially, are liable, in unshaded hives, to melt and fall down, which is very damaging to the bees, and very vexatious to the apiarist. The remedy for all this is to always have the hives so situated that they will be entirely shaded all through the heat of the day. This might be done by constructing a shed or house, but these are expensive and inconvenient, and, therefore, to be discarded. _ If the apiarist has a convenient grove, this may be trimmed high, so as not to be damp, and will fulfill every requirement. So arrange the hives that while they are shaded through all the heat of the day, they will receive the sun’s rays early and late, and thus the bees will work more hours. I always face my hives to the east. If no grove is at command, the hives may be placed on the north of a Concord grape-vine (Fig. 68), or other vigorous variety, as the apiarist may prefer. Thisshould be trained to a trellis, which may be made by setting two posts, either of cedar or oak. Let these extend four or five feet above the ground, and be three or four feetapart. Connect them at intervals of eighteen inches with three galvanized wires, the last one being at the top of the posts. Thus we can 154 Preparations for Hives. have shade and grapes, and can see for ourselves that bees do not injure grapes. If preferred we may use evergreens for this purpose, which can be kept low, and trimmed square and close on the north. These can be got at once, and are super- Fia. 68. , Nucleus and Simplicity Hive Shaded by Grape-vine. ior in that they furnish ample shade at all seasons. ” Norway pe is the best. These should be at least six feet apart. . I. Root’s idea of having the vine of each succeeding row divide the spaces of the previous row, in quincunx order (Fig. Grape-vine Apiary. 155 Fic.’ 69. ICCA Grape-vine Apiary. 156 Preparations for Hives. 69), is very good; though I should prefer the rows in this case to be four, instead of three feet apart, especially with ever-greens. Until protecting shade can be thus permanently secured, boards or tent cloth covers should be arranged for temporary protection. Many apiarists economize by using fruit trees for this purpose, which from their spreading tops answer very well. Mr. A. I. Root’s idea of having sawdust under and about the hives is, I think, a good one. The hives of the Michigan Agricultural College (Fig. 70) are protected by evergreens, trimmed close on the north side. In the figure the artist has mace a deciduous tree, and so it appears too spreading. A space four feet by six, north of the shrubs, was then dug out to a depth of four inches, and filled with sawdust (Fig. 70, f), underlying which were old bricks, so that nothing would grow up through the sawdust. The sawdust thus extends one foot back, or west of the hive, three feet north, and the same distance to the east or front side of the hive. This makes it neat about the hive, and largely removes the danger of losing the queen in handling the bees; as should she fall outside the hive, the sharp-sighted apiarist would be very likely indeed to see her. Mr. J. H. Nellis, long the able Secretary of the North- Eastern Bee-Keepers’ Association, objects to sawdust. as he thinks it rots too quickly, may take fire, and bio about badly. He would use sand or gravel instead. I have found another objection to the above plan. The grass comes up too freely. Having to change our apiary grounds, I dug the hole as above described, and covered the bottom with a thin layer of coal tar, upon which I placed a layer of brick, which I covered with concrete, and all with a thin layer of gravel. This work can be done after the busy season is over. The cost. is very light, and we have a neat and permanent founda- tion for each hive. After the evergreens are well started, all the space between the sawdust areas should be in grass, and kept neatly mown. This takes but little time, and makes the apiary always pleasant and inviting. Give Shaded by Evergreen. 157 Fic. 70. Two Story Hive Shaded by- Evergreen, 158 Transferring Bees. ‘CHAPTER VII. TO TRANSFER BEES. As you may have purchased your bees in box hives, barrels, or hollow logs, and so, of course, will desire to transfer them immediately into movable-frame hives, or, as already suggest- ed, you may wish to transfer from one movable-frame to another, I will now proceed to describe the process. Among the many valuable methods which Mr. Heddon has given to the bee-keeping public not the least valuable is that of transferring. By his method the work may be done at any season whenever the bees are on the wing. After blowing a little smoke into the hive, sufficient to alarm the bees, we set it a little aside, and put in its place our new hive full of wired foundation. We now turn the old hive, whatever it may be, bottom side up, and place a box over it. If the bees are suf- ficiently smoked, it will make no difference even if the box is not close fitting to the old hive. We then with a stick or hammer rap on the hive for from ten totwenty minutes. The bees will fill with honey and go with the queen into the upper box and cluster. If towards the last we carefully set the box off once or twice, and vigorously shake the hive, and then re- place the box, we will hasten the emigration of the bees, and make it more complete. I got this suggestion from Mr. Bald- ridge. A few young bees will still remain in the old hive, but these will do no harm. We next take the box which contains the queen and nearly all the bees, and shake the bees all out in front of the hive, already placed on the old stand. The bees will at once take possession, draw out the foundation in a surprisingly short time, and wilt give us a set of combs which will surpass in beauty those procured in any other way. Should the bees be unable to gather any honey for some days, of course we must feed them, but as we shall see in the sequel, this will pay, even were it unnecessary. We set the old hive aside for twenty-one days, when the oung bees will all come from the cells. Should the weather te cold, we might have to put this in a warm room, so the Old Method of Transferring. 159 brood will not chill. We now drum out these bees as before, kill the queen, which has been reared, and unite the bees with the others, or form a separate colony as before—except that we supply them with a queen—as the number of bees deter- mines. We can now split out the corners of the old hive, split the gum, or separate the staves of the barrel, so as not to break the comb. This should be carefully cut loose, and the honey extracted by use of the wire comb-holder (Fig. 92) and the comb melted into wax for foundation. ‘The only loss in this method is the time which the bees require to draw out the foundation, and this is far more than made up in the su- perior combs which are secured. J think the time expended in melting up the combs, etc., is more than made up by the time saved in transferring. THE OLD METHOD. If one has no foundation, or desires to give the bees the comb and honey at once, even at the cost of unshapely combs, he then should drum the bees out as before, and put the box containing the bees on the old stand, leaving the edge raised so that the bees which are out may enter, and so all the bees can get air. This method is difficult, except in spring, and is best done about noon when the bees are busy on the fruit bloom. If other bees do not trouble, as they usually will not if busily gathering, we can proceed in the open air. If they do, we must go into some room. I have frequently transfer- red the comb in my kitchen, and oftenina barn. Now knock the old hive apart, as already described, cut the combs from the sides, and get the combs out of the old hive with just as little breakage as possible. Mr. Baldbridge, if transferring in spring, saws the combs and cross-sticks loose from the sides, turns the hive into the natural position, then strikes against the top of the hive with a hammer till the fastenings are broken loose, when he lifts the hive, and the combs are all free and in convenient shape for rapid work. We now need a barrel, set on end, on which we place a board fifteen to twenty inches square, covered with several thicknesses of cloth. Some apiarists think the cloth useless, but it serves, I think, to prevent injury to comb, brood, or honey. We now place a comb on this cloth, and in a frame on the comb, and cut out the comb the size of the inside of the 160 Fastening Comb in Frames. frame, taking pains to save all the worker brood. Now crowd the frame over the comb, so that the latter will be in the same position that it was when in the old hive; that is, so the honey will be above—the position is not very important—then fasten the comb in the frame, by winding about all one or two small wires or pieces of wrapping twine. To raise the frame and comb before fastening, raise the board beneath till the frame is vertical. Set this frame in the new hive, and proceed with the others in the same way till we have all the worker-comb— that with small cells—fastened in. To secure the pieces, which we shall find abundant at the end, take thin pieces of wood, one-half inch wide and a trifle longer than the frame is deep, place these in pairs either side the comb, extending up and down, and enough to hold the pieces secure till the bees shall fasten them (Fig. 71), and secure the strips by winding Fic. 71. Fie. 72. 4 —_la rm >] ——— Transferring Clasp. with small wire, just below the frame (Fig. 72), or by use of small rubber rings, or else tack them to the frame with small tacks. Some bee-keepers use U-shaped pieces of wire or tin to hold the comb in the frame. Captain Hetherington has invented and practices a very neat method of fastening comb into frames. In constructing his frames, he bores small holes through the top, side, and bottom-bars of his frames, about two inches apart; these holes are just large enough to permit the passage of the long spines of the hawthorn. Now, in transferring comb, he has but to stick these thorns through into the comb to hold it se- curely. He can also use all the pieces, and still make a neat and secure frame of comb. He finds this arrangement conven- ient, too, in strengthening insecure combs. In answer to my Transferring without Drumming. 161 inquiry, this gentleman said it paid well to bore such holes in all his frames, which are eleven by sixteen inches, inside measure. I discarded such frames because of the liability of the comb to fall out. Having fastened all the nice worker comb into the frames —of course all other comb will be melted into wax—we place all the frames containing brood together in the centre of our new hive, especially if the colony is weak, or the weather cool, and confine the space by use of the division board, adding the other frames as the bees may need them. We now place our new hive on the stand, pushing it forward so that the bees can enter anywhere along the alighting board, and then shake all the bees from the box, and any young bees that may have clustered on any part of the old hive, or on the floor, or ground, where we transferred the comb, immediately in front. They will enter at once and soon be at work, all the busier for hav- ing passed ‘‘from the old house into the new.” In two or three days, remove the wires, or strings and sticks, when we shall find the combs all fastened and smoothed off, and the bees as busily engaged as though their present home had always been the seat of their labors. In practicing this method, many proceed at once to transfer without drumming out the bees. In this case the bees should be well smoked, should be driven away from the side of the old hive where the combs are being cut loose, by use of the smoker, and may be brushed direct from the old combs into the new hive. This method will be preferred by the ex- perienced, though I think the beginner will find it more easy and pleasant to first drum out all the bees before he commences to cut out the combs. Of course, in transferring from one frame to another, the matter is much simplified. In this case, after thoroughly smoking the bees, we have but to lift the frames and shake or brush the bees into the new hive. For a brush, a chicken or turkey wing, a large wing or tail feather from a turkey, goose, or peacock, or a twig of pine or bunch of asparagus twigs, serves admirably. Now cut out the comb in the best form to accommodate the new frames, and fasten as already suggested. After the combs are all transferred, shake all remaining bees in front of the new hive, which has already been placed on the stand previously occupied by the old hive, 11 162 Hunting Bee Trees. Sometimes bees from trees in the forest are transferred to hives and the apiary. HUNTING BEE TREES, Except for recreation, this is seldom profitable. It is slow and uncertain work. The tree when found is not our own, and though the owner may consent to our cutting it, he may dislike to do so. The bees, when found, are difficult to get alive; it is even more difficult to get the honey in good con- dition, and when secured, the honey and bees are often almost worthless. The principle upon which bees are “‘ lined” is this: that after filling with honey, a bee always takes a direct course—‘‘a bee line”—to its hive. To hunt the bee-trees we need a bottle of sweetened water, a little honey-comb, unless the bees are gathering freely from forest flowers, and a small bottomless box with a sliding glass cover, and a small shelf attached to the middle of one side on the inside of the box. A shallow tray or piece of honey-comb is to be fastened to this shelf. If the bees are not found on flowers, we can attract them by burning a piece of honey-comb. If on a flower, set the box over them after turning a little of the sweetened water in the comb or tray on the shelf. It is easy to get them to sipping this sweet. Then slide the glass, and when they fly, watch closely and see the direction they take. By following this line, we come to the bee tree, or more likely to some neighbor’s apiary. By getting two lines, if the bees are from the same tree, where the lines meet, there the tree will be. We should be careful not to be led to apiaries, and should look very closely when the bees fly, to be sure of the line. Experience makes a person quite skillful. When a tree is found, we must use all possible ingenuity to get the combs whole if we wish to transfer the bees, Feeding and Feeders. 163 CHAPTER VIII. FEEDING AND FEEDERS. As already stated, it is only when the worker-bees are stor- ing that the queen deposits to the full extent of her capability, and that brood-rearing is at its height. In fact, when storing ceases, general indolence characterizes the hive. This is pecu- liarly true of the German and Italian races of bees. Hence, if we would achieve the best success, we must keep the workers active, even before gathering commerces, as also in the in- terims of honey secretion by the flowers; and to do this we must feed sparingly before the advent of bloom in the spring, and whenever the workers are forced to idleness during any part of the season, by the absence of honey-producing flowers. For a number of years, I have tried experiments in this direc- tion by feeding a portion of my colonies early in the season, and in the intervals of honey-gathering, and always with marked results in favor of the practice. Mr. D. A. Jones has truly said, that if feeding in the autumn be deferred too long, till the queen ceases laying, it often takes much time to get her to resume, and not infre- quently we fail entirely. Every apiarist, whether novice or veteran, will receive ample reward by practicing stimulative feeding early in the season; then his hive at the dawn of the white clover era will be re- dundant with bees, well filled with brood, and in just the trim to receive a bountiful harvest of this most delicious nectar. Feeding, too, is often necessary to secure sufficient stores for winter—for no apiarist, worthy of the name, will suffer his faithful, willing subjects to starve, when so little care and expense will prevent it. HOW MUCH TO FEED. If we only wish to stimulate, the amount fed need not be great. A half pound a day, or even less, will be all that is necessary to encourage the bees to active preparation for the good time coming. For information in regard to supplying stores for winter, see Chapter XVIII, 164 What and how to Feed. ' WHAT TO FEED. ’ For this purpose I would feed granulated sugar, reduced to the consistency of honey, or else extracted honey kept over from the previous year. The price of the latter will decide which is the more profitable. Honey, too, that has been drained or forced out of cappings, etc., is good, and only good, to feed. To make the syrup, I use one quart of water to two of sugar, and heat till the sugar is dissolved. Many advise feeding the poorer grades of sugar in spring. My own experience makes me question the policy of ever using such feed for bees. ,, The feeding of glucose or grape sugar is even worse policy. . It is bad food for the bees, and its use is dangerous to the bee-keeper’s reputation, and injurious to our brother bee-keepers. ., Glucose is so coupled with fraud and adulteration that he who would ‘‘avoid the apvearance of evil” must let it severely alone. In all feeding, unless extractéd honey is what we are using, we cannot exercise too great care that such feed is not carried to the surplus boxes. Only let our customers once taste sugar in their comb-honey, and not only is our own reputation gone, but the whole fraternity is injured. In case we wish to have our combs in the sections filled or capped, we must feed ex- tracted honey, which may often be done with great advantage. HOW TO FEED The requisites of a good feeder are: Cheapness, a form to admit quick feeding, to permit no loss of heat, and so arranged that we can feed at all seasons without in any way disturbing the bees. The feeder (Fig. 73) which I have used with good satisfaction, is a modified division-board, the top-bar of which (Fig. 78, 6) is two inches wide. From the upper central por- tion, beneath the top-bar, a rectangular piece, the size of an oyster-can, is replaced with an oyster-can (Fig. 73, g), after the top of the latter has been removed. A vertical piece of wood (Fig. 73, d) is fitted into the can so as to separate a space about one inch square, on one side, from the balance of the chamber. This piece does not reach quite to the bottom of the can, there being a one-eighth inch space beneath. In the top-bar there is an opening (Fig. 73, e) just above the smaller space below. In the larger space is a wooden float (Fig. 73, f) full of holes. _ On one side, opposite the larger chamber of the Bee-Feeders. 165 can, a half-inch piece of the top (Fig. 73, c) is cut off, so that the bees can pass between the can and top-bar on to the float, where they can sip the feed. The feed is turned into the hole in the top-bar (Fig. 73, e), and without touching a bee, passes down under the vertical strip (Fig. 73, d) and raises the float (Fig. 73, f). The can may be tacked to the board at the ends near the top. Two or three tacks through the can into the vertical piece (Fig. 78, d) will hold the latter firmly in place ; or the top-bar may press on the vertical piece so that it cannot move. Crowding a narrow piece of woolen cloth between the can and board, and nailing a similar strip around the beveled edge of the division-board, makes all snug. , The objection to Fic. 73. e b le it Division-Board Feeder: Lower part of the face of the can removed, to show float, etc. _ this feeder is that it can not be placed just above the cluster of bees. On very cold days in spring the bees can not reach their food in any other position. The feeder is placed at the end of the brood-chamber, and the top-bar covered by the quilt. To feed, we have only to fold the quilt over, when with a tea-pot we pour the feed into the hole in the top-bar. If a honey-board is used, there must be a hole in this just above the hole in the division-board feeder. In either case, no bees can escape, the heat is confined, and our division-board feeder is but little more expensive than a division-board alone. Some apiarists prefer a quart can with finely perforated cover. This is filled with liquid, the cover put on, and the 166 Bee-Feeders. whole quickly inverted and set above a hole in the cover just. above the bees. Owing to the pressure of the air, the liquid will not descend so rapidly that the bees cannot sip it up. The objections to this feeder are, that it is awkward, raises the cushions so as to permit the escape of heat, and must be removed to receive the feed. The Simplicity feeder (Fig. 74), invented by Mr. A. I. Root, is shown on its side in the illustration. This is used at the entrance, and so is not good for cold weather. As the feed is exposed it can only be used at night, when the bees are not flying. Fig. 74. Simplicity Bee- Feeder. Fig. 75. Shuck’s Boss Bee-Feeder. The Shuck feeder (Fig. 75) is a modification of the Simplic- ity, and a great improvement. This is used at the entrance of the hive or by nailing two together so that the sides mark- ed D will face each other, We can use it above the bees. We then would place the opening D, above a hole in the cloth cover, or honey-board, turn the feed in at C, and the bees would come up at D, pass under the cover, and down into the saw-cuts (Fig. 75, A, A) when they would sip the Sinith Bee-Feeder. 167 feed, and then crawl up on the partitions. This feeder works admirably, but it is patented, costs too much, and is improved in the SMITH FEEDER. This feeder was sent me by my friend, John Smith, of Massachusetts. I have used it two years, and think it fills every requirement ofa perfect feeder. This feeder (Fig. 76) is larger than the Shuck, and is covered all over with wire gauze (Fig. 76, a), which is raised by the wooden rim, so that the bees can pass readily over the partitions, (Fig. 76). The central saw-cuts (Fig. 76) do Fic. 76. not reach the end of the feeder, so there is a platform left (Fig. 76, 6) through which a hole (Fig. 76, c) is made. This rests above a hole in the cloth below, and is the door through which the bees reach the feed. When in position just above the bees, it may be covered by a shingle or piece of paste-board, and all by the chaff cushion. To feed, we have only to raise the cushion and the paste-board, and turn the food through the gauze. No bees can get out, there is no disturbance, no danger from the robbers, and we can feed at any time, and can feed very rapidly if desired. Mr. D. A. Jones and many others with tight bottom boards use no feeder, but turn the feed right into the hive. Even had I such hives I think I should still prefer to use such a feeder as that just described. The best time to feed is just at night-fall. In this case the 168 inter Feeding. feed will bé carried away before the next day, and the danger to weak colonies from robbing is not so great. In feeding during the cold days of April, all should be close above the bees to economize the heat. In all feeding, care is requisite that we may not spill the feed about the apiary, as this may, and very generally will, induce robbing. If, through neglect, the bees are found to be destitute of stores in mid-winter, it is not best to feed liquid food, but solid food, like the Viallon candy or the Good mixture of honey and sugar, which will be described under the head of shipping queens. Cakes of either of these should be placed on the frames above the cluster of bees. Rearing Queens. 169 CHAPTER IX. QUEEN REARING. Suppose the queen is laying two thousand eggs a day, and that the full number of bees is forty thousand, or even more —though as the bees are liable to many accidents, and as the queen does not always lay to her full capacity, it is quite prob- able that this is about an average number—it will be seen that each day that a colony is without a queen there is a loss equal to about one-twentieth of the working force of the col- ony, and this a compound loss, as the aggregate loss of any day is its special loss, augmented by the several losses of the previous days. Now, as queens are liable to die, or to become impotent, and as the work of increasing colonies demands the absence of queens, unless the apiarist has extra ones at his command, it is imperative, would we secure the best re- sults, to ever have at hand extra queens. So the young apiarist must early learn HOW TO REAR QUEENS. As queens may be needed early in the spring, preparations looking to the rearing of queens must commence early. As soon as the bees are able to fly regularly, we must see that they have a supply of bee-bread. If there is not a supply from the past season, and the locality of the bee-keeper does not furnish an early supply, then place unbolted flour, that of rye or oats is best, in shallow troughs near the hives. It may be well to give the whole apiary the benefit of such feeding before the flowers yield pollen. Yet, I have found that here in Central Michigan, bees can usually gather pollen by the first week of April, which I think is as early as they should be allowed to fly, and in fact as early as they will fly with sufficient regularity to make it pay to feed the meal. I much question, after some years of experiment, if it ever pee at this place to give the bees a substitute for pollen. If one’s locality demands this early feeding of meal, the bees can be induced to work readily at storing the material by dropping a little honey on it. 170 Securing Queen-Cells, The best colony in the apiary—or, if there are several col- onies of equal merit, one of these—should be stimulated to the utmost, by daily feeding, and by increase of brood taken from other colonies. As this colony becomes strong, a comb con- taining drone cells should be placed in the centre of the brood nest. Very soon drone eggs will be laid. I have often had drones flying in early May. As soon as the drones commence to hatch out, remove the queen and all eggs and uncapped brood from some good, strong colony, and replace it with eggs or brood just hatched from the colony containing the queen, from which it is desired to breed. By having placed one or two bright, new, empty combs in the midst of the brood nest of this colony, four days beforehand, we shall have in these combs just such eggs and newly hatching brood as we desire, with no brood that is too old. If we have more than one colony whose excellence warrants their use to breed from, then these eggs should be taken from some other than the one which has produced our drones. This will prevent the close in-breeding which would of neces- sity occur if both queens and drones were reared in the same colony; and which, though regarded as deleterious in the breeding of all.animals, should be practiced in case one single queen is of decided superiority to all others of the apiary: The queen and the brood that have been removed may be used in making a new colony, in a manner soon to be describ- ed under ‘‘dividing or increasing the number of colonies.” This queenless colony will immediately commenee forming queen-cells (Fig. 78). Sometimes these are formed to the number of fifteen or twenty, and in case of the Syrian and Cyprian races, fifty or sixty, and they are started in a full, vigorous colony; in fact, under the most favorable conditions. Cutting off edges of the comb, or cutting holes in the same where there are eggs or larvee just hatched, will almost always insure the starting of queen-cells in such places. It will be noticed that our queens are started from eggs, or from larvee but just hatched, as we have given the bees no other, and so are fed the royal pabulum from the first. Thus, we have met every possible requisite to secure the most superior queens. By removal of the queen we also secure a large number of cells, while if we waited for the bees to start the cells prepar- atory to natural swarming, in which case we secure the two Securing Queen-Cells. 171 desirable conditions named above, we shall probably fail to se- cure so many cells, and may have to wait longer than we can afford. Even the apiarist who keeps black bees and desires no others, or who has only pure Italians, will still find that it pays to practice this selection, for, as with the poultry fan- cier, or the breeder of our larger domestic animals, the apiarist is ever observing some individuals of marked superi- ority, and he who carefully selects such aueens to breed from, will be the one whose profits will make him rejoice, and whose apiary will be worthy of all commendation. As will be patent to all, by the above process we exercise a care in breeding which is not surpassed by the best breeders of horses and cattle, and which no wise apiarist will ever neglect. It is often urged, and I think with some truth, that we shall secure better queens if we wait for the queen-cells to be started naturally by the bees, under the swarming impulse; and by early feeding and adding brood from other colonies we can hasten this period; yet, if we feed to stimulate, whenever the bees are not storing, and keep tne colony redundant in bees of all ages by adding plenty of capped brood from other col- onies, we shall find that our queea, are little, if any, inferior, even if their production is haste ed by removal of a queen from the hive. If these directions are closely followed, there will be little brood forthe bees to feed, and the queen-cells will not suffer neglect. Mr. Quinby not only advised this course, but he recommended starting queen cells in nuclei; but, he emphasized the importance of giving but very little brood, so nearly all the strength of the nurse bees would be expended on the queen-cells. After we have removed all the queen-cells, in manner soon to be described, we can again supply eggs, or newly-hatched larve—always from those queens which close observation has shown to be the most vigorous and prolific in the apiary—and thus keep the same queenless co.ony, or colonies, engaged in starting queen-cells till we have all we desire. Yet we must not fail to keep this colony strong by the addition of capped brood, which we may take from any hive as most convenient. We must be cautious that our cells are started from only such brood as we take from the choicest queen. I have good reason to believe that queen-cells should not be started after 172 Forming Nuclei. the first of September, as I have observed that late queens are not only less prolific, but shorter lived. In nature, late queens are rarely produced, and if it is true that they are inferior, it might be explained in the fact that their ovaries remain so long inactive. As queens that are long unmated are utterly worth- less, so, too, freshly mated queens long inactive may become enfeebled. However, some of our best queen-breeders think | late queens just as good. Possibly they may ‘be if reared with the proper cautions. In eight or ten days the cells are capped, and the apiarist is ready to form his NUCLEI. A nucleus is simply a miniature colony of bees—a hive and colony on a small scale, for the purpose of rearing and keeping queens. We want the queens, but can afford to each nucleus only a few bees. The nucleus hive, if we use frames not more than one foot square, need be nothing more than an ordinary hive, with chamber confined by a division-board to the capacity of three frames. If our frames are large, then it may be thought best to construct special nucleus hives. These are small hives, which need not be more than six inches each way, that is, in length, breadth, and thickness, and made to contain from four to six frames of corresponding size. These frames are filled with comb. I have for several years used the first named style of nucleus hive. and have found it advantageous to have a few long hives made, each to contain five chambers, while each chamber is entirely separate from the one next to it, is five inches wide, and is covered by a separate, close-fitting board, and the whole by a common cover. The entrance for the two end chambers is at the ends near the same side of the hive. The middle chamber has its entrance at the middle of the side near which are the end entrances, while the other two chambers open on the opposite side, as far apart as is possible. The outside might be painted different colors to correspond with the divisions, if thought necessary, especially on the side with two openings. Yet I have never taken this precaution, nor have I been troubled much by losing queens. They have almost invariably entered their own apartments when returning from their wedding tour. These hives I use to keep queens induring the summer. Except the apiarist engages in queen- Forming Nuclei. 1738 rearing extensively as a business, I doubt the propriety of building such special nucleus hives. The usual hives are good property to have in the apiary, will soon be needed, and may be economically used for all nuclei. In spring I make use of my hives which are prepared for prospective summer use, for my nuclei. Mr. E. M. Hayhurst, one of our best queen breeders, uses the full size Langstroth frame, in full sized hives, for queen- rearing, while Mr. Root uses the same frames in small special hives which hold three frames. These (Fig. 68) he fastens high up on his grape-vine trellises, just back of his other hives, which can be used for seats as he works with the nuclei. We now go to different hives of the apiary, and take out three frames for each nucleus, at least one of which has brood, and so on, till there are as many nuclei prepared as we have queen-cells to dispose of. The bees should be left adhering to the frames of comb, only we must be certain that the queen is not among them, as this would take the queen from where she is most needed, and would lead to the sure destruction of one queen-cell. To be sure of this, never take such frames till you have seen the queen, that you may be sure she is left behind. It is well to close the nucleus for at least twenty-four hours, so that enough bees will surely remain to cover the combs, and so prevent the brood from becoming chilled. If any desire the nuclei with smaller frames, these frames must of course be filled with comb, and then we can shake bees immediately into the nuclei, till they shall have sufficient to preserve a proper temperature. Such special articles about the apiary are costly and inconvenient. I believe that I should use hives even with the largest frames for nuclei. L. °C. Root who uses the large Quinby frame uses the same for his nuclei. In this case we should need to give more bees. Twenty-four hours after we have formed this nucleus, we are ready to insert the queen cell. We may do it sooner, even at once, but always at the risk of having the cell destroyed. To insert the queen-cell—for we are now to give one to each nucleus, so we can never form more nuclei than we have capped queen-cells—we first cut it out, using a sharp thin-bladed knife, commencing to cuton either side the base of the cell, at least one-half inch distant, for we must not in the least compress the cell, then cutting up and out for two inches, then across opposite the cell. This leaves the cell 174 Inserting Queen-Cells, attached to a wedge-shaped piece of comb (Fig. 77), whose apex is next to the cell. A similar cut in the middle frame of the nucleus, which in case of the regular frames is the one containing brood, will furnish an opening to receive the wedge containing the cell. The comb should also be cut away be- neath (Fig. 77), so that the cell cannot be compressed. Mr. Fig. 77. Root advises a circular cut (Fig 78). If two or more fine cells are so close together that separation is impossible, then all may be inserted ina nucleus. By close watching afterward we may save all the queens. If we have used bright new comb as advised above, we can see the queen move in the cell if she is ready to come out, by holding it between us and the sun, and may uncap such cells, and let the queen run in at the entrance of any queenless hive or nucleus at once. In selecting combs for queen cells, we should reject any that have drone comb. Bees sometimes start queen cells over drone larve. Such cells are smoother than the others, and of course are worthless. After all the nuclei have received their cells and bees, they have only to be set ina shady place and watched to see that sufficient bees remain. Should too many leave, give them more by removing the cover and shaking a frame loaded with bees over the nucleus; keep the opening To Prevent Undesirable Mating. 175 nearly closed, and cover the bees so as to preserve the heat. The main caution in this is to be sure not to get any old queen in a nucleus. In two or three days the queens will hatch, and in a week longer will have become fertilized, and that, too, in Fia. 78. Queen Cell with Hinged Cap. case of the first queens, by selected drones, for as yet there are no others in the apiary. I cannot over-estimate the advantage of always having extra queens. To secure mating from selected drones, later, we must cut all drone-comb from inferior colonies, so that they shall rear no drones. If drone larvee are in uncapped cells, they may be killed by sprinkling the comb with cold water. By giving the jet of water some force, as may be easily done by use of a fountain pump, they may be washed out, or we may throw them out with the ex- tractor, and then use the comb for starters in our sections. It is very important that those who rear queens to sell shall have no near neighbors who keep bees, and shall keep only very superior bees, that undesirable mating may be prevented. If drones are flying from undesirable colonies, they can be kept from leaving the hive by use of the entrance guards (Fig. 79). These are made of the perforated zinc, and while they permit the passage of the workers, they restrain the queen and drones. By shaking all the bees in front of the hive, we can, by use 176 Lamp Nursery. of ‘hese, soon weed out all the drones. With these in front of a hive, we can keep the queen from leaving with a swarm. Occasionally a queen will crowd through. By keeping empty frames and empty cells in the nuclei, the bees may be kept Fie. 79. Entrance Guard. active; yet with so few bees, one cannot expect very much from the nuclei. After cutting all the queen-cells from our old hive, we can again insert eggs, as above suggested, and obtain another lot of cells, or, if we have a sufficient number, we can leave a single queen-cell, and this colony will soon be the happy possessor of a queen, and just as flourishing. as if the even tenor of its ways had not been disturbed. If it is pre- ferred, the bees of this colony may be used in forming the nuclei, in which case there is no danger of getting a queen in any nucleus thus formed or of having the queen-cells destroyed. We can thus start seven or eight nuclei very quickly. QUEEN LAMP NURSERY. This is a tin hive, with two walls enclosing a water tight space an inch wide, which, when in use, is filled with water through a hole atthe top. Each nursery may hold from six to eight frames. Some prefer to have special frames for this nursery, each of which contains several close chambers. The queen cells are cut out and putin these chambers. Itis claim- ed that with no food the queens will not attack each other, and so several cells may be put in each chamber. By use of a common kerosene lamp placed under this nursery, the temperature must be kept from 80° F. to 100° F. By placing the frames with capped queen-cells in this, the ueens hatch as well as if in a hive or nucleus. If as soon as hatched the young queens are introduced into a queenless colony or nucleus, as first shown by Mr. Langstroth, they are usually well received. Unless one is rearing a great many queens, this lamp nursery is not desirable, as we still have to use the nucleus tv get the young queens fertilized, have to watch Clipping Queen’s Wing. 177 carefully to get the young queens as soon as hatched, must. guard it carefully as moths are apt to get in, and, finally, unless great pains are taken, this method will give us inferior queens. Mr. W. Z. Hutchinson, one of our best queen breed- ers, thinks very highly of the lamp nursery. : Some bee-keepers use a cage (Fig. 80) with projecting pins which are pushed into the comb, so that they hold the cage. A cell is put into each of these, and then they may be put into any hive. Of course the bees can not destroy the cell, as they can not get at it. Dr. Jewell Davis’ queen nursery consists of a frame filled with such cages which can be hung in any hive. I have tried both, and prefer this to the lamp nursery. SHALL WE CLIP THE QUEEN’S WING? In the above operation, as in many other manipulations of the hive, we shall often gain sight of the queen, and can, if we desire, clip her wing, if she has met the drone; but never before, that in no case she shall lead the colony away to parts unknown. This does not injure the queen, as some have claimed. Gen- eral Adair once stated that such treatment injured the queen, as it cut off some of the air-tubes, which view was approved by so excellent a naturalist as Dr. Packard. Yet I am sure that this is all a mistake. The air-tube and blood-vessel, as we have seen, go to the wings to carry nourishment to these members. With the wing goes the necessity of nourishment and the need of the tubes, As well say that the amputation 12 178 Clip the Queen’s Wing. of the human leg or arm would enfeeble the constitution, as it would cut off the supply of blood. Many of our best apiarists have practiced this clipping of the queen’s wings for years. Yet, these queens show no dimi- nution of vigor ; we should suppose they would be even more vigorous, as useless organs are always nourished at the expense of the organism, and if entirely useless, are seldom long con- tinued by nature. The ants set us an example in this matter, as they bite the wings off their queens, after mating has tran- spired. They mean that the queen ant shall remain at home, nolens volens, and why shall not we require the same of the queen bee? Were it not for the necessity of swarming in na- ture, we should doubtless have been anticipated in this matter by nature herself. Some of our first apiarists think that queens with wings clipped are not as acceptable to the other bees. I have now had experience for ten years in this practice, and have yet to see the first indication that the above is true. Still, if the queen essays to go with the swarm, and if the apiarist is not at hand, she will sometimes be lost, never regaining the hive ; but in this case the bees will be saved, as they will return with- out fail. J always mean to be so watchful, keeping my hives shaded, giving ample room, and dividing or increasing, as to prevent natural swarming. Sometimes, however, with the closest vigilance swarms will issue; then we may save much labor and vexation if we have the wing of the queen clipped. Some apiarists clip one primary wing the first year, the sec- ondary the second year, the other primary the third, and if age of the queen permits, the remaining wing the fourth year. Yet, such data, with other matters of interest and importance, better be kept on a slate or card, and firmly attached to the hive, or else kept in a record opposite the number of the hive. The time required to find the queen is sufficient argu- ment against the ‘‘queen-wing record.” It is not an argu- ment against the once clipping of the queen’s wings, for, in the nucleus hives, queens are readily found, and even in full colonies this is not very difficult, especially if we heed the dic- tates of interest and keep Italians. It will be best, even though we have to look up black queens, in full colonies. The loss of one good colony, or the vexatious trouble of sep- arating two or three swarms which had clustered together, or Fertile Workers. 179 the hiving of a colony perched higk up on some towering tree, would soon vanquish this argument of time. To clip the queen’s wing, which we must never do until she commences to lay eggs, take hold of her wings with the right thumb and index finger—never grasp her body, especially her abdomen, as this will be very apt to injure her—raise her off the comb, then turn from the bees, place her gently on the left hand, and press on her feet with the left thumb sufficiently to hold her. Now with the right hand, by use of a small, deli- cate pair of scissors, cut off about one-half of one of the front or primary wings. This method prevents any movement of legs or wings, and is easy and quick. Some apiarists complain that queens thus handled often re- ceive a foreign scent, and are destroyed by the bees. I have clipped hundreds, and never lost one. I believe that the above method will not be open to this objection. Should the experience of any one prove to the contrary, the drawing on of a kid glove, or even the fingers of one, might remove the difficulty. FERTILE WORKERS. We have already described fertile workers. As these can only pvoduce unimpregnated eggs, they are, of course, value- less, and unless superseded by a queen will soon cause the de- struction of the colony. As their presence often prevents the acceptance of cells or a queen, by the common workers, they are a serious pest. The absence of worker brood, and the abundant and care- less deposition of eggs—some cells being skipped, while others have received several eggs—are pretty sure indications of their presence. The condition that favors these pests, is con- tinued absence of a queen or means to produce one. They seem more common with the Cyprian and Syrian bees. 2 To rid a colony of these, unite it with some colony with a good queen, after which the colony may be divided if very strong. Simply exchanging places of a colony with a fertile worker, and a good strong colony, will often cause the destruc- tion of the wrong-doer. In this case, brood should be given to the colony which had the fertile worker, that they may rear a queen ; or better, a queen-cell. or queen should be given them, Caging a queen in a hive, with a fertile worker, for 180 Apiary Register. thirty-six nours, will almost always cause the bees to accept her. Shaking the bees off the frames two rods from the hive, will often rid them of the counterfeit queen, after which they will receive a queen-cell or a queen. But prevention is best of all. We should never have a colony or nucleus without either a queen or means to rear one. It is well to keep young brood in our nuclei at all times. Tn all manipulation with the bees we need something to loosen the frames. Many use achisel. JI have found an iron scraper (Fig. 81), which I had made by a blacksmith. very Fie. 81. enient. Itserves to loosen the frames, draw tacks, and scrave off propolis. It would be easy to add the hammer. QUEEN REGISTER, OR APIARY REGISTER. With more than a half-dozen colonies it is not easy to know just the condition of each colony. Something to mark the date of each examination, and the condition of the colony at that time, is very desirable. Mr. Root furnishes the Queen Register (Fig. 82). With this it is very easy to mark the date of examination of each hive, and the condition of the colony at the time. Mr. Newman furnishes an Apiary Regis- ter which serves admirably for the same purpose. Each hive is numbered. A corresponding number in the Register gives us all desired facts. We have only to note down at the time the condition of each colony and date of examination in the Register 181 Queen Register. Fie. 82. ‘O ‘VNIGIW ‘LOOY "rv “ATOL anor ‘DOV ‘AVK 0 “Ldas “TIddV “L00 HOUVH RAC 18.19 dy, = se cS) % % boy ag “Ow SUTBI PULYS [TIA LOY Ssyou, poziuvATeS Io pouuyy O87) ; “paipuny 10d *o0F 10 “zop aod *09 ye Seat} POTIeUL spavH sey, “"PsOA 10 oinsy Auv uo Aja.imodas ssaid [ITA pvoy ey. 4vy} JeUUvUL 8 Fons ur qU9q SI 41 1o9se ‘apo.119 YOO JO 19jU00 OY} OFUT. Ud TOMWOD @ oo103 ‘s1adTd JO avd & YI ‘uayy {sneTONNT JO oATFT ou} Jo xed snondidsuod & uo puedo oY} HOVL—SNOLLODYIG ‘DNIAVT ‘CTHLOVH ‘CYA0Udd VY “ITSO Oo 'CHAOUdLV LON ‘doors ‘PNISSINE on “SDD ‘MoO. LSIDAY NAANO 182 Swarming. CHAPTER X. INCREASE OF COLONIES. No subject will be of more interest to the beginner, than that of increasing stocks. He has one or two, he desires as many score, or, if very aspiring, as many hundred, and if a Jones, a Hetherington, or a Harbison, as many thousand. This is a subject, too, that may well engage the thought and study of men of no inconsiderable experience. I believe that many veterans are not practicing the best methods in obtain- ing an increase of stocks. Before proceeding to name the ways, or to detail the meth- ods, let me state and enforce that it is always safest, and gen- erally wisest, especially for the beginner, to be content with doubling, or certainly with tripling, his number of colonies each season. Especially let all remember the motto, ‘‘Keep all colonies strong.” There are two ways to increase: The natural, known as swarming, already described under natural history of the bee ; and the artificial, improperly styled artificialswarming. This is also called, and very properly too, ‘‘ dividing.” SWARMING. To prevent anxiety and constant watching, and to secure a more equable division of bees, and, as I believe, more honey, it is better to provide against swarming entirely by use of means which will appear in the sequel. But as this requires some experience, and, as often, through neglect, either neces- sary or culpable, swarms may issue, the apiarist should be al- ways ready with both means and knowledge for immediate ac- tion. Of course, necessary: hives were all secured the previous winter, and will never be wanting. Neglect to provide hives before the swarming season is convincing proof that the wrong pursuit has been chosen. If, as I have advised, the queen has her wing clipped, the ‘matter becomes very simple, in fact, so much simplified that were there no other argument, this would be sufficient to recommend the practice of clipping the queen’s wing. Now, Hivinn Swarms. 183 if several swarms cluster together, we have not to separate them ; they will separate of themselves and return to their old homes. To migrate without the queen means death, and life is sweet even to bees, and is not to be willingly given up ex- cept for home and kindred. Neither has the apiarist to climb trees, to secure his bees from bushy trunks, from off the lat- tice-work or pickets of his fence, from the very top of a tall, slender fragile, fruit tree, or other most inconvenient places. Nor will he even be tempted to pay his money for patent non- swarming hivers or patent swarm catchers. He knows his bees will return to their old quarters, so he is not perturbed by the fear of loss or plans to capture the unapproachable. It requires no effort ‘‘to possess his soul in patience. ” If he wishes no increase, he steps out, takes the queen by the remaining wings, as she emerges from the hive, soon after the bees commence their hilarious leave tak- ing, puts her in a cage, opens the hive, destroys, or, if he wishes to use them, cuts out the queen cells as already describ- ed, gives more room—either by adding boxes or taking out some of the frames of brood, as they may well be spared, places the cage enclosing the queen under the quilt, and leaves the bees to return at their pleasure. At night-fall the queen is liberated, and very likely the swarming fever is subdued for the season. If it is desired to hive the absconding swarm with a nucleus colony, exchange the places of the old hive containing the caged queen, and the nucleus, to which the swarm will then come. Remove queen-cells from the old hive as before, give some of the combs of brood to the nucleus, which is now a full colony, and empty frames, filled with foundation, or if you have them empty combs, to both, liberate the queen at night and all is well, and the apiarist rejoices in a new colony. If the apiarist has neglected to form nuclei, and so has no extra queens—and this is a neglect—and wishes to hive his swarms separately, he places his caged queen in a hive filled with frames of foundation, which he replaces the old hive till the bees return; then this new hive, with queen and bees, and still better, with a 1rame or two of brood, honey, etc., in the middle, taken from the old hive, is set on a new stand. The old hive, with all the queen-cells except the largest and finest one removed, is set back, so that the apiarist has fore- 184 To Prevent Swarming. stalled the issue of after-swarms, except as other queen-cells are afterward started, which is not likely to happen. If it is found too hard to move the hives, we can place a sheet over the old hive, place the caged queen on this, just in front of the entrance, which is covered by the sheet, and when the bees return and have all clustered about the queen, we have only to carry them to the new hive and turn them in front of the entrance. The old queen is liberated as before, and we are in the way of soon having two good colonies. Some apiarists cage the queen and let the bees return, and then divide the colony, as soon to be described. Some extensive apiarists, who desire to prevent increase of colonies, cage the old queen, destroy cells, and exchange this hive—after taking out three or four frames of brood to strengthen nuclei—with one that recently swarmed. Thus a colony that recently sent out a swarm, but retained their queen, has probably, from the decrease of bees, loss of brood and removal of queen-cells, lost the swarming fever, and if we give them plenty of room and ventilation, they will accept the bees from a new swarm, and spend their future energies in storing honey. If the swarming fever is not broken up, we shall only have to repeat the operation again in a few days. Still another modification, in case no increase of bees but rather comb honey is desired, is recommended by such apiar- ists as Doolittle, Davis, and others. We cage the queen ten days, then destroy ‘the queen-cells in the hive, and liberate the queen, and everything is arranged for immense yields of comb honey. In this case the queen is idle, but the bees seem to have lost not one jot of their energy. Dr. C. C. Miller, instead of caging the queen, places her with a nucleus on top of the old hive, thus keeping her at work, by exchange of frames. After ten days he destroys the queen-cells in the old hive and unites the nucleus with it. Here the queen is kept at work, the swarming impulse subdued, and a mighty colony made ready for business. If the apiary is some distance from the house, a simple di- aphragm telephone will inform the bee-keeper when swarming occurs. The roar of the telephone caused by the bees strik- ing the wire gives the warning. Two objections are sometimes raised right here. Suppose several swarms issue at once, one of which is a second swarm, Hiving Swarms. 185 which of course has a virgin queen, then all will go off to- gether, and our loss is grievous indeed. I answer that second swarms are unprofitable and should never be permitted. We should be so vigilant that this fate would never befall us. If we will not give this close attention without such stimulus, then it were well to have this threatening danger hanging over us. Again, suppose we are not right at hand when the swarm issues, the queen wanders away and possibly is lost. Yes, but if unclipped the whole colony would go, now it is only the queen. Usually the queen gets back. If not, a little looking will find her within a ball of friendly workers. At night-fall, smoke these bees, and by watching we learn the hive which swarmed, as the bees about the queen will repair at once to it ( HIVING SWARMS. But in clipping wings, some queens may be omitted, or from taste, or other motive, some bee-keepers may not desire to ‘‘de- form her royal highness.” Then the apiarist must possess the means to save the would-be rovers. The means are, good hives in readiness, some kind of a brush—a turkey-wing will do—and a basket with open top, which should be at least eighteen inches in diameter, and so made that it may be attached to the end of a pole, and two poles, one very long and the other of medium length. Now, let us attend to the method: As soon as the cluster commences to form, place the hive in position where we wish the colony to remain, leaving the entrance widely open, which with our bottom-board only requires that we draw the hive forward an inch or more over the alighting-board. As soon as the bees are fully clustered, we must manage as best we can to empty the whole cluster in front of the hive. As the bees are full of honey we need have little fear of stings. Should the bees be on a twig that could be sacrificed, this might be easily cut off with either a knife or saw (Fig. 83), and so care- fully as hardly to disturb the bees, then carry and shake the bees in front of the hive, when with joyful hum they will at once proceed toenter. If the twig must not be cut, shake them all into the basket, and empty before the hive. Should they be on a tree trunk, or a fence, then brush them with the wing into the basket, and proceed as before. If they are high up 186 Hiving Swarms. on a tree, take the pole and basket, and perhaps a ladder will also be necessary. Always let ingenuity have its perfect work, not forgetting that the object to be gained is to get just as many of the bees as is possible on the alighting-board in front Fic. 83. of the hive. Carelessness as to the quantity might involve the loss of the queen, which would beserious. The bees will not re- main unless the queen enters the hive. Should a cluste. form where it is impossible to brush or shake them off, they can be driv- en into a basket, or hive, by holding it above them and blowing smoke among them. All washes for the hive are more than Several Swarms at Once. 187 useless. It is better that it be clean and pure. With such, if they are shaded, bees will generally be satisfied. But assur- ance will be made doubly sure by giving them a frame of brood, in all stages of growth, from an old hive. This may be inserted before the work of hiving is commenced. Mr, Betsinger thinks this will cause them to leave;. but I think he will not be sustained by the experience of other apiarists. He certainly is not by mine. I never knew but one colony to leave uncapped brood; I have often known them to swarm out of an empty hive once or twice, and to be returned, after brood had been placed in the hive, when they accepted the changed conditions, and went at once to work. This seems unreasonable, too, in view of the attachment of bees for their nest of brood, as also from analogy. How eager the ant to convey her larva and pup—the so called eggs—to a place of safety, when the nest has been invaded and danger threatens. Bees doubtless have the same desire to protect their young, and as they cannot carry them away to a new home, they re- main to care for them in one that may not be quite to their taste. i E When a colony swarms, the impulse seems to be general, and often a half dozen colonies will be on the wing in a trice. These will very often, generally in truth, cluster together. In this case, to find the queens is well nigh impossible, and we can only divide up the bees into suitable colonies, and as soon as we find any starting queen cells, give them a queen. Of course we may loose every queen but one. In view of this trouble, and the expense of the various swarm catchers in vogue, I would say clip the queen’s wing. If it is not desired to increase, the bees may be given to a colony which has previously swarmed, after removing from the latter all queen-cells, and adding to the room by putting on the sections and removing some frames of hive to strengthen nuclei. We may even return the bees to their old home by taking the same precautionary measures, with a good hope that storing and not swarming will engage their at- tention in future ; and if we exchange their position with that of a nucleus, we shall be still more likely to succeed in over- coming the desire to swarm; though some seasons, usually wnen honey is being gathered each day for long intervals, but not in large quantities, the desire and determination of some 188 To Prevent Swarming. colonies to swarm is implacable. Room, ventilation, changed eae of hive, each and all will fail. Then we can do no etter than to gratify the propensity by giving the swarm a new home, and make an effort TO PREVENT SECOND SWARMS. As already stated, the wise apiarist will always have on hand extra queens. Now, if he does not desire to form nuclei (as already explained), and thus use these queen cells, he will at once cut them all out, and destroy them, and give the old colony a fertile queen. The method of introduction will be given hereafter, though in such cases there is very little danger incurred by giving them a queen at once, and by thoroughly smoking the bees, sprinkling with sweetened water, and daub- ing the new queen with honey, we may be almost sure of suc- cess. If desired, the queen-cells can be used in forming nuclei, in manner before described. In this way we prevent our colony from being virtually queenless for at least thirteen days, and that in the very height of the honey season, when time is money. If extra queens are wanting, we have only to look carefully through the old hive and remove all but one of the queen-cells. A little care will certainly make sure work, as after swarming, the old hive is so thinned of bees that only carelessness will overlook queen-cells in such a quest. TO PREVENT SWARMING. As yet we can only partly avert swarming. Mr. Quinby offered a large reward for a perfect non-swarming hive, and never had to make the payment. Mr. Hazen attempted it, and partially succeeded, by granting much space to the bees, so that they should not be impelled to vacate for lack of room. The Quinby hive already descriked, by the large capacity of the brood-chamber, and ample opportunity for top and side- storing, looks to the same end. Mr. Muth says if we always have empty cells in the brood nest, swarming will seldom oc- cur. Yet he says, ‘‘seldom.” We may safely say that a per- fect non-swarming hive or system is not yet before the bee- keeping public. The best aids toward non-swarming are shade, ventilation, and roomy hives. But as we shall see in the sequel, much room in the brood-chamber, unless we work for extracted honey—by which means we may greatly repress Artificial Division of Colonies. \ 189 \ the swarming fever—prevents our obtaining honey in a desir- able style. If we add sections, unless the connection is quite free—in which case the queen is apt to enter them and greatly vex us—we must crowd some to send the bees into the sec- tions. Such crowding is almost sure to lead to swarming. I have, by uncapping the combs of honey in the brood-cham- ber, as suggested to me by Mr. M. M. Baldridge—causing the honey to run down from the combs—sent the bees crowding to the sections, and thusdeferred or prevented swarming. Those who have frames that can be turned upside down, say that the same end may be gained by simple inversion of the frames. By placing our sections in the brood-chamber till the bees commence to work on them, and then removing them above, or by carrying brood up beside the sections, the bees are gen- erally induced to commence working in the sections: The brood in this last case should be returned as soon as the bees show a willingness to accept the sections, else the comb built in the sections will be dark, especially if the brood is in dark comb. Mr. B. Walker has his section rack so made that it can be lowered, between the brood frames, and then raised above as soon as the bees bevin to work in the sections. It is possible that by extracting freely when storing 1s very rapid, and then by freely feeding the extracted honey in the interims of honey secretion, we might prevent swarming, se- cure very rapid breeding, and still get our honey in sections. My experiments, in this direction, have not been as success- ful as I had hoped, and I can not recommend the practice, though some apiarists claim to have succeeded. The keeping of colonies queenless, in order to secure honey without increase, as practiced and advised by some even of our distinguished apiarists, seems to me a very questionable practice. Dr. C. C. Miller's method already described, ac- complishes the same object, and keeps all the queens at work all the time. I would advise keeping a queen and the workers all at work in every hive, if possible, all the time. HOW TO MULTIPLY COLONIES WITH THE BEST RESULTS. We have already seen the evils of natural swarming, for, even though no stock is too much reduced in numbers, no colony lost by not receiving prompt attention, no Sunday quiet disturbed, and no time wasted in anxious watching, yet, 190 - How to Increase Artificially. at best, the old colony is queenless for about two weeks; a state of things which no apiarist can or should afford. The true policy then is to practice artificial swarming, as just described, where we save time by cutting the queen’s wing, and save loss by permitting no colony to remain queenless, or still better to DIVIDE. This method will secure uniform colonies, will increase our number of colonies just to our liking, will save time, and that when time is most valuable, and is in every respect safer and more desirable than swarming. I have practiced dividing ever since I have kept bees, and never without the best results. HOW TO DIVIDE. By the process already described, we have secured a goodly number of fine queens, which will be in readiness at the needed time. Now, as soon as the white clover harvest is well commenced, early in June, we may commence operations. If we have but one colony to divide, it is well to wait till they become pretty populous, but not till they swarm. Take one of our waiting hives, which now holds a nucleus with fertile queen, and place the same close along side the colony we wish to divide. This must be done on a warm day when the bees are active. and better be done while the bees are busy, in the middle of the day. Remove the division-board of the new hive, and then remove five combs well loaded with brood, and of course containing some honey, from the old colony, bees and all, to the new hive. Also take the remaining frames and shake the bees into the new hive; only be sure that the queen stil remains in the old hive. Fill both the hives with empty frames—if the frames are filled with empty comb it will be still better, if not, it will always pay to give full frames of foundation—and return the new hive to its former position. The old bees will return to the old colony, while the young ones will remain peaceably with the new queen. The old col- ony will now contain at least seven frames of brood, honey, etc., the old queen, and plenty of bees, so that they will work on as though naught had transpired, though perhaps moved to a little harder effort, by the added space and five empty combs or frames of foundation. These last may be all placed at one end, or placed between the others, though not so as to Dividing. 191 greatly divide brood. The new colony will have eight frames of brood, comb, etc., three from the nucleus and five from the old colony, a young fertile queen, plenty of bees, those of the pre- vious nucleus and the young bees from the old colony, and will work with asurprising vigor, often even eclipsing the old colony. If the apiarist has several colonies, it is better to make the new colony from several old colonies, as follows: Take one frame of brood-comb from each of six old colonies, or two from each of three, and carry them, bees and all, and place with the nucleus. Be sure that no queen is removed. Fill all the hives with empty combs, or foundation, as before. In this way we increase without in the least disturbing any of the colonies, and may add a colony every day or two, or per- haps several, depending on the size of our apiary, and can thus almost always, so my experience says, prevent swarming. By taking only brood that is all capped, we can safely add one or two frames to each nucleus every week, without addin any bees, as there would be no danger of loss by chilling the brood. In this way, as we remove no bees, we have to spend no time in looking for the queen, and may build up our nuclei into full stocks, and keep back the swarming impulse with great facility. These are unquestionably the best methods to divide, and so I will not complicate the subject by detailing others. The only objection that can be urged against them, and even this does not apply to the last, is that we must seek out the queen in each hive, or at least be sure that we do not remove her, though this is by no means so tedious if we have Italians or other races of yellow bees, as of course we all will. I might give other methods which would render unnecessary this cau- tion, but they are to my mind inferior, and not to be recom- mended. If we proceed as above described, the bees will sel- dom prepare to swarm at all, and if they do they will be dis- covered in the act, by such frequent examinations, and the work may be cut short by at once dividing such colonies, as first explained, and destroying their queen-cells or. if desired, using them for forming’ new nuclei. Sometimes it is very desirable to cause swarms to alight that have just taken wing, enroute for their prospective home. This can be done easily, surely, and quickly by use of Whit- man’s Fountain Pump. This pump only costs $7.50, and is invaluable for many purposes. 192 Superiority of Italians. CHAPTER XI. ITALIANS AND ITALIANIZING. The history and description of Italians have already been considered, so it only remains to discuss the subject in a prac- tical light. The superiority of the Italians seems no longer a mooted question. I now know of no one among the able apiarists in our country who takes the ground that a thorough balancing of qualities will make as favorable a showing for the German as for the Italian bees, though I think that the late Baron of Berlepsch held to this view. I think I am capable of acting as judge on this subject. I have never sold a dozen queens in my life, and so have not been unconsciously influenced by self-interest. In fact, I have never had, if I except two years, any direct interest in bees at all, and all my work and experiments had only the promo- tion and spread of truth as the ultimatum. Again, I have kept both blacks and Italians side by side and carefully observed and noted results during eight years of my expe- rience. I have carefully collected data as to increase of broed, rapidity of storing, early and late habits in the day and season, kinds of flowers visited, amiability, etc., and I believe that to say that they are not superior to black bees, is like saying that a Duchess among short-horns is in no wise superior to the lean, bony kine of Texas; or that our Essex and Berkshire swine are no whit better than the cadav- erous, lank breeds, with infinite noses, that, happily, are now so rare among us. The Italians are far superior to the Ger- man bees in many respects, and though I am acquainted with all the works on apiculture printed in our language, and have an extensive acquaintance with the leading apiarists of our country from Maine to California, yet I know not a man that has had opportunity to form a correct judgment, that does not give strong preference to the Italians. The black bees are in some respects superior to the Italians, and if a bee-keeper’s methods cause him to give thesc points undue importance, in Superiority of Ttalians. 198 forming his judgments, then his conclusions may be wrong. Faulty management, too, may lead to wrong conclusions. The Italians certainly possess the following points of supe- riority: First. They possess longer tongues, and so can gather from flowers which are useless to the black bee. This.point has al- ready been sufficiently considered. How much value hangs upon this structural peculiarity I am unable to state. I have frequently seen Italians working on red clover. I never saw a black bee thus employed. It is easy to see that this might be, at certain times and certain seasons, a very material aid. How much of the superior storing qualities of the Italians is due to this lengthened ligula, Iam unable to say. Mr. J.H. Martin has a very ingenious tongue measurer by which the length of the tongues of bees in the several hives can be quick- ly and accurately compared. Ihave made a very simple and convenient instrument to accomplish the same end; two rec- tangular pieces, one of glass and the other of wire gauze, are so set in a frame that the glass inclines to the gauze. At one end they touch; at the other they are separated three-fourths of aninch. Honey is spread on the glass and all set in the hive. The bees can only sip the honey through the gauze. The bees that clean the glass farthest from the end where it touches the gauze have the longest tongues. This gives only relative lengths, while Mr. Martin’s register tells the absolute length. Bead, They are more active, and with the same oppor- tunities will collect a good deal more honey. This is a matter of observation, which I have tested over and overagain. Yet I will give the figures of another: Mr. Doolittle secured from two colonies, 309 Ibs. and 301 Ibs. respectively, of comb honey, during the past season. These surprising figures, the best he could give, were from his best Italian stocks. Similar testi- mony comes from Klein and Dzierzon over the sea, and from hosts of our own apiarists. Third. They work earlier and later. This is not only true of the day, but of the season. On cool days in spring, I have seen the dandelions swarming with Italians, while not a black bee was to be seen. On May 7th, 1877, I walked less than half a mile, and counted sixty-eight bees gathering from dandelions, yet only two were black bees. This might 13 194 Superiority of Italians. be considered an undesirable feature, as tending to spring dwindling. Yet, with proper management, to be described while considering the subject of wintering, I think this no ob- jection, but a great advantage. Fourth. They are far better to protect their hives against robbers. Robbers that attempt to plunder Italians of their hard-earned stores soon find that they have ‘‘dared to beard the lion in his den.” This is so patent that even the advo- cates of black bees are ready to concede it. Fifth. They are almost proof against the ravages of the bee-moth’s larvee. This is also universally conceded. This is no very great advantage, as no respectable bee-keeper would dread moths, even with the black bees. Sixth. The queens are decidedly more prolific. This is probably in part due to the greater and more constant activity of the workers. This is observable at all seasons, but more especially when building up in the spring. No one who will take the pains to note the increase of brood will long remain in doubt on this point. Seventh. They are less apt to breed in winter, when it is desirable to have the bees very quiet. Eighth. The queen is more readily found, which is a great advantage. In the various manipulations of the apiary, it is frequently desirable to find the queen. In full colonies I would rather find three Italian queens than one black one. Where time is money, this becomes a matter of much impor- tance. Ninth. The bees are more disposed to adhere to the comb while being handled, which some might regard a doubtful compliment, though I consider it a desirable quality. Tenth. They are, in my judgment, less liable to rob other bees. They will find honey when the blacks gather none, and the time for robbing is when there is no gathering. This may explain the above peculiarity. Eleventh. In my estimation, a sufficient ground for pref- erence, did it stand alone, is that the Italian bees are far more amiable. Years ago I got rid of my black bees, because they were so cross. A few years later, 1 got two or three colonies, that my students might see the difference, but to my regret; for, as we removed the honey in the autumn, they seemed perfectly furious, like demons, seeking whom they might de- What Bees to Keep. 195 vour, and this, too, despite the smoker, while the far more numerous Italians were safely handled, even without smoke. The experiment at least satisfied a large class of students as to superiority. Mr. Quinby speaks in his book of their being cross, and Captain Hetherington tells me that if not much handled they are more cross than the blacks. From my own experience, I cannot understand this. Hybrids are even more cross than are the pure black bees, but otherwise are nearly as desirable as the pure Italians. I have kept these two races side by side for years; I have studied them most carefully, and I feel sure that none of the above eleven points of excellence are too strongly stated. The black bees will go into close boxes more readily than Italians, but if we use the sections for comb honey and on other grounds we can not afford to do otherwise, we shall find, with the more ample connection between the brood-chamber and .sections, that even here, as Mr. Doolittle and many others have shown, the Italians still give the best returns. There is no question but that the German bees produce nicer, whiter comb honey than do the Italians. This superi- ority is due to thicker cappings. This, however, is too nice a point to count very greatly in their favor. The comb honey pos by Italians does not have to go begging in the mar- ets. I have some reason to think that the blacks are more hardy, and have found many apiarists who agree with me. Yet, others of wide experience think that there is no differ- ence, while still others think that the Italians are more hardy. The Italian bees are said to dwindle worse in spring, which, as they are more active, is quite probable. As I have never had a case of serious spring dwindling, I cannot speak from experience. If the bee-keeper prevents early spring flying, which is very detrimental to either black or Italian bees, this point will have no weight, even if well taken. The advantages of the Italians, which have been considered thus fully, are more than sufficient to warrant the exclusion of the German bees from the apiary. Truly, no one needs to be urged to a course that adds to the ease, profit, and agree- ableness of his vocation. 196 Introducing Queens. THE NEW RACES OF BEES, All of the valuable characteristics of the Italian bees are exaggerated in the Syrian bees, except that of amiability. This feature, irritability, would not be an objection to an ex- perienced bee-keeper. I believe, after two years’ experience with the Syrians, that they will soon be as pleasant to manage and handle as are the Italians. They are not subdued with smoke, and require careful handling. They are astonishingly prolific, and keep up the brood rearing whether there are nec- tar-secreting flowers or not. For queen rearing they are super-excellent. The comb honey of these bees is said to be quite inferior, because of thin caps; a point I have failed to observe. The Cyprian bees are in no way superior to the Syrians, so far as I can learn, though I have had no experi- ence with them, and they are considerably more irritable. WHAT BEES SHALL WE KEEP? The beginner certainly better keep Italians. If the Syr- ians maintain their apparent superiority, I would certainly ad- vise the experienced bee-keeper to give them a trial. HOW TO ITALIANIZE. From what has been already explained regarding the natural history of bees, it will be seen that all we have to doto change our bees is to change our queens. Hence, to Italianize a col- ony, we have only to procure and introduce an Italian queen. The same of course is true of Cyprianizing or Syrianizing. If we change the queen we soon change the bees. HOW TO INTRODUCE A QUEEN, In dividing colonies, where we give our queen to a colony composed wholly of young bees, it is safe and easy to intro- duce a queen in the manner explained in the section on arti- ficial swarming. To introduce a queen to a colony composed of old bees requires more care. First, we should seek out the old queen and destroy her, then cage our Italian queen in a wire cage (Fig. 84), which may be made by winding a strip of wire-cloth, three and one-half inches wide, and containing fifteen to twenty meshes to the inch, about the finger. Let it lap each way one-half inch, then cut it off. Ravel out the Introducing Queens. 197 half inch on each side, and weave in the ends of the wires, forming a tube the size of the finger. We now have only to put the queen in the tube and pinch the ends together, and the queen is caged. The cage containing the queen should be Fig. 84. Queen Cage. inserted between two adjacent combs containing honey, each of which will touch it. The queen can thus sip honey as she needs it. If we fear the queen may not be able to sip the honey through the meshes of the wire, we may dip a piece of clean sponge in honey and insert it in the upper end of the cage before we compress this end. ‘This will furnish the queen with the needed food. In forty-eight hours we again open the hive, after a thorough smoking, and also the cage, which is easily done by pressing the upper end at right angles to the di- rection of the pressure when we closed it. In doing this do not remove thecage. Nowkeep watch, and if, as the bees en- ter the cage or as the queen emerges, the bees attack her, secure her immediately and re-cage her for another forty-eight hours. I have introduced many queens in this manner, and have very rarely been unsuccessful. At such times if the queen is not well received by the bees, then she is ‘‘ balled,” as it is termed. By the expression ‘‘balling the queen,” we mean that the work- ex bees press about her in a compact cluster, so as to form a real Tive ball as large as a good sized peach. Here the queen is held till she dies. By smoking the ball or throwing it into water the queen may be speedily liberated. Mr. Dadant stops the cage with a plug of wood (Fig. 84), and when he goes to liberate the queen replaces the wooden stopple with one of comb, and leaves the bees to liberate the queen by eating out the comb. Mr. Betsinger uses a larger cage, open at one end, which is pressed against the comb till the mouth of the cage reaches the middle of it. If I understand him, the queen is thus held by cage and comb till the bees liberate her. 198 Introducing «ueens. If, upon liberating the queen, we find that the bees ‘‘ball” her, that is, gather so closely about her as to form a compact cluster, we must at once smoke the bees off and re-cage the queen, else they will hold her a prisoner till she is dead. The Peet cage (Fig. 85), which is not only an introducing but a shipping cage, is a most valuable invention. The back Queen Cage. of the cage is tin, and as seen in the figure may be drawn out, which leaves the back of the cage entirely open. The tin points, which turn easily, are turned at right angles to the cage as shown in the figure. The cage is pressed close up to a smooth piece of comb containing both brood and honey, where it is held by the tin points, and then the tin back is with- drawn. The bees will soon liberate the queen and almost al- ways accept her. I have had such admirable success with this cage that I heartily recommend it. The food in the cage will keep the queen, even though the bees do not feed her through the wire, and there is no honcy in the comb. Judge Andrews, of Texas, states a valuable point in this con- nection, which, though I have not tried, I am glad to give. The reputation of Judge Andrews and the value of the sug- gestion alike warrant it. He says queens will be accepted just as quickly when caged in a hive with a colony of bees, even though the old queen is still at large in the hive. Such caged queens, says the Judge, after two or three days, are Introducing Queens. 199 just as satisfactory to the worker bees as though ‘‘ to the man- or born, ” and even more safe when liberated—of course the old queen is first removed—as the bees start no queen cells, if the old queen has remained in the hive until this time, and the presence of queen cells agitates the newly liberated queen, which is pretty sure to cause her destruction. Here then we may cage and keep our queens after they have been fertilized in the nuclei, and at any time can take one of these, or the old queen, at pleasure, to use elsewhere, though if the latter, we must liberate one of the caged queens, which, says the Judge, ‘will always be welcomed by the bees.” -— When bees are not storing, especially if robbers are abund- ant, it is more difficult to succeed, and at such times the ut- most caution will occasionally fail of success if the bees are not all young. Sometimes a queen may be safely introduced into a queenless colony by simply shaking the bees all down in front of the hive, and as they pass in, letting the queen run in with them. If the queen to be introduced is in a nucleus, we can almost always introduce her safely by taking the frame containing the queen, bees and all, and setting it in the middle of the hive containing the queenless colony. A young queen, just emerging from a cell, can almost al- ways be safely given at once to the colony, after destroying the old queen. A queen cell is usually received with favor. If we use a cell we must be careful to destroy all other queen-cells that may be formed; and if the one we supply is destroyed, wait twenty-four hours and introduce another. If we wait seven or eight days, and then destroy all their queen-cells, the bees are sure to accept acell. But to save time I should always introduce a queen, If we are to introduce an imported queen, or one of very great value, we might make a new colony, all of young bees. We simply place two or three combs of rapidly hatching brood in a hive, and the queen on them. By night-fall there will be a goodly cluster of young bees. Unless the day and night are warm the hive must be set in a warm room. The entrance should be closed in any case. This keeps the queen from leaving and robber bees from doing harm. As the num- ber of bees warrant it, more brood may be added, and by adding capped brood alone we may very soon have a full sized colony. 200 Comb Stands. By having a colony thus Italianized in the fall, we may commence the next spring, and, as described in the section explaining the formation of artificial swarms, we may control our rearing of drones, queens, and all, and ere another autumn have only the beautiful, pure, amiable, and active Italians. { have done this several times, and with the most perfect sat- isfaction. I think by making this change in blood, we add certainly two dollars to the value of each colony, and I know of no other way to make money so easily and pleasantly. ‘VALENTINE’S COMB STAND. In the work of finding queens, and in other manipulations, it is often desirable to take out frames. If these are set down beside the hive they are liable to injury. J. M. Valentine has given us a valuable ‘‘comb stand” (Fig. 86). As will Fig. 86. “alentine’s Comb Stand. be seen this holds two frames. The platform is handy to re- ceive tools, and the drawer serves well to hold scissors, knife, queen cages, etc. Mr. M. G. Young has invented an ‘‘Easel” (Fig. 87) for How to get Queens, 201 the same purpose. This will hold several combs. Of course it will not do to leave combs thus exposed, except when the Fig. 87. Young’s Easel. bees are busy in the field; or we will have great trouble with robber bees. TO GET OUR ITALIAN QUEENS. At present the novice, and probably the honey producer who prefers to purchase rather than rear his queens, better send to some reliable, experienced breeder, and procure ‘‘dol- lar queens.” Unless these are impurely mated, which will rarely happen with first-class breeders, they are just as good as ‘‘ tested queens.” Testing only refers to the matter of pure mating. T have felt, and I still feel, that this cheap queen traffic tends to haste, not care, in breeding, and that with ‘‘dollar queens” ruling in the market, there is lack of inducement for that careful, painstaking labor that is absolutely requisite to give us the best race of bees. Itis justly claimed, however, in favor of the ‘‘ Dollar Queen” business, that it has hastened the spread of Italian bees, gives those who rather buy than rear 202 Shipping Queen their queens a cheap market in which to purchase, and, best of all, weeds out of the business all but the most skillful, cautious, and honest breeders. Only skillful men can make it pay. Only cautious, honest men can find a market for their-stock. We know that men are making a handsome rofit in the business and at the same time are giving excel- ent satisfaction. This is the best argument in favor of any business. I repeat, then, that the beginner better purchase ‘‘dollar queens” of some reliable breeder—one who has made queen rearing a success for years, and given general satisfaction. T have feared that this ‘‘cheap queen” traffic would crush the hard effort, requiring study, time, money, and the most cautious experiment and observation, necessary to give usa very superior race of bees. There is reason to hope now that it will, at most, only delay it. Enterprising apiarists see in this the greatest promise for improved apiculture, and already are moving forward. Enterprising bee-keepers will purchase and pay well for the bee of the future that gives sure evidence of superior excellence. One thing is certain, ‘‘dollar queens” are in the market, and are in demand; so, whether the busi- ness tends to our good or evil, as rational men we must accept the situation and make the most of things as they exist. Let me urge, however, upon the progressive apiarist, that there is no possible doubt but that the bees of the future will be immensely superior to those of to-day. Man can and will advance here as he has in breeding all other stock. If the obstacles in the way are greater because of the peculiar nat- ural history of the bee, then the triumph, when it comes, will be greater. and the success more praiseworthy. TO SHIP QUEENS. For shipping queens the character of the shipping cage and of the food are of first importance. ‘Nothing serves better for a cage than Peet’s cage (Fig 85), already mentioned. As will be seen the bees are covered with a double screen— one of wire, the other (removed in the figure) of wood. These are separated one-fourth of an inch. The food should never be honey. This may daub the queen and cause her death. If the food consists of hard candy, then the cage must contain a bottle of water, the cork of which has a small opening, through which is passed a small cotton string. Food for Shipping 203 These bottles are not satisfactory, and so our queen breeders have discovered a moist candy which makes them unnecessary. VIALLON CANDY. This candy, suggested by Paul L. Viallon, keeps moist for a week or more. ‘To make it, we take twelve ounces of powder- ed white sugar, four ouncesof brown sugar, one tablespoonful of flour, and two of honey. Stir these well, adding enough water to make a stiff batter, then boil for a moment, and longer if we added too much water, after which we stir till it begins to thicken, when we turn it into the cage. The cage (Fig. 88) should be long enough to receive two half-inch au- Fig. 88. Peet Cage ger holes in the wood and at the end, which should be cut half way through the block, so near the chamber as to cut away an opening large enough for the bees to get at the food. The candy should be turned into these holes. ‘The wire gauze should cover these holes, as well as the chamber for the bees. THE GOOD CANDY. This consists of granulated sugar moistened with extracted honey. We are indebted to Mr. I. R. Good for this cheap and excellent food. The only caution required is to get it just moist enough to keep it soft and not so moist that it will drip at all. The end of the cage (Fig. 88) to contain this should extend one and one-half inches beyond the cham- ber made for the bees. Through this end, lengthwise not crosswise, bore one or two three-eighth inch holes. Fill these with the candy, and insert a wooden cork into the holes at the end of the cage. The fault with this candy is that it crum- bles, as the honey is sipped from it, or evaporates. With the 204 Mailing Queens. holes as suggested above, we find this is obviated. With this candy I have had queens on the road two weeks without the. loss of a single bee PREPARATIONS TO SHIP The tin on the back of the cage has one corner cut off a little, so if we draw it back slightly we make a small opening. ‘We now hold the cage in the left hand with the thumb over the hole, to keep the bees in, and with the right hand pick up the queen and eight or ten worker bees—bright ones, neither very young nor old—by grasping the wings with thumb and index finger, and put them into the cage. Close the opening by pushing in the tin slide, nail on the wooden screen (Fig. 85) and our queen is ready to mail. In this work we can make good use of the comb stand (Fig. 86). We should send queens by mail. They goas safely as by express and it costs but a centortwo. No one should presume, on any account, to send a queen by mail, unless the queen-cage is covered by this double screen and is provisioned as directed above, instead of with honey. If shippers neglect these precautions, so that the mails become daubed, or the mailagents stung, we shall again lose the privilege of sending queens by mail. An order excluding bees from the mails will in the future be beyond recall, hence any carelessness that endangers this privilege will be virtually criminal. TO MOVE COLONIES. Should we desire to purchase Italians or other colonies, the only requisites to safe transport are: A wire-cloth cover for ventilation, secure fastening of the frames so they cannot possibly move, and combs so old that they shall not break down and fall out. If the colony is very large, and the weath- er very warm, there should be an opening in the bottom of the hive covered with gauze, or the bees may smother. The entrance ought to becovered with gauze. Ifcombsare built from wired foundation they will not break down evenif new. Bees thus shut up should never be left where the sun can shine on them. In the cars the frames should extend lengthwise of the cars. I would never advise moving bees in winter, though it has often been done with entire safety. I should wish the bees to have a flight very soon after such disturbance, The Honey Extractor. 205 CHAPTER XII. EXTRACTING, AND THE EXTRACTOR. The brood-chamber is often so filled with honey that the queen has no room to lay her eggs, especially if there is any neglect to give other room for storing. Honey in brood- combs is unsalable, because the combs are dark, and the size undesirable. Comb is very valuable, and should never be taken from the bees, except when desired to render the honey more marketable. Hence, the apiarist finds a very efficient auxiliary in the HONEY EXTRACTOR. No doubt some have expected and claimed too much for this machine. It is equally true that some have blundered uite as seriously in an opposite direction. For, since Mr. angstroth gave the movable frame to the world, the apiarist has not been so deeply indebtéd to any inventor as to him who gave us the Mel Extractor, Herr von Hruschka, of Germany. Even if there was no sale for extracted honey—aye, more, even if it must be thrown away, which will never be necessa- ry, as it may always be fed to the bees with profit, even then I would pronounce the extractor an invaluable aid to every bee-keeper. The principle which makes this machine effective is that of centrifugal force, and it was suggested to Major von Hruschka by noticing that a piece of comb which was twirled by his boy at the end of a string, was emptied of its honey. Herr von Hruschka’s machine was essentially like those now so common, though in lightness and convenience there has been a marked improvement. His machine consisted of a wooden tub, with a vertical axle in the centre, which revolved in a socket fast- ened to the bottom of the vessel, while\from the top of the tub fastenings extended to the axle, which projected for a distance above. The axle was thus held exactly in the center of the tub. Attached to the axle was a frame or rack to hold the comb; whose outer face rested against a wire-cloth. The axle with its attached frame, which latter held the uncapped comb, was made to revolve by rapidly unwinding a string 206 Honey Extractor. which had been previously wound about the top of the axle, after the manner of top-spinning. Replace the wooden tub with one of tin, and the string with gearing, and it will be seen that we have essentially the neat extractor of to-day. The machine is of foreign invention, is not covered by a patent, and so may be made by any one who desires to do so. Fie. 89, Fig. 90. The first American honey extractor was that made by Mr. Peabedy. This was without gearing, and served admirably in its day, but has since been greatly improved, till now we have several machines, each with itsspecial excellencies, and all effect- ing the desired results with more or less ease and rapidity. DESIRABLE POINTS IN AN EXTRACTOR. The machine (Fig. 89) should be as light as is consistent with strength. It is desirable that the can be made of tin, as Honey Extractor. 207 it will be neater and more easily kept sweet and clean. The can should be stationary, so that only a light frame (Fig. 90) shall revolve with the comb. In some of the extractors (Fig. 90) the walls of this frame incline. This keeps the frames from falling in when the machine is at rest, but varies the centrifugal force at the top and bottom of the comb, which is urged as an objection. Of course this difference in force is very slight. It is desirable that the machine should run with gearing, not only for ease, but also to insure or allow an even motion, so that we need not throw even drone larve from the brood- cells, while in the act of extracting. In some machines the crank runs in a horizontal plane (Fig. 89), in others in a ver- tical plane(Fig. 91). Both styles have their friends, Ithink ‘there is little choice between them. The arrangement for exit of the honey should permit a speedy and perfect shut-off. A molasses gate is excellent to serve for a faucet. I also pre- fer that the can should hold 80 or 40 pounds of honey before it would be necessary to let the honey flow from it. In case of small frames, like the ones I have described as most desirable to my mind, I should prefer that the comb bas- ket might: hold four frames. The comb basket should be placed so low in the can that no honey will be thrown over the top to daub the person using the extractor. I think that Fia. 92. a wire attachment with a tin bottom (Fig. 92, a, b) and made to hook on to the comb basket, which will hold pieces of comb not in frames, is a desirable addition to an extractor. The can, if metal, which is lighter and to be preferred to wood, as it does not sour nor absorb the honey, should be of tin, so 208 Use of the Extractor. as not torust. A cover (Fig. 91) to protect the honey from dust, when not in use, is very desirable. The cloth cover, gathered around the edge by a rubber, as made by Mr. A. I. Root, is excellent for this purpose. As no capped honey can be extracted, it is necessary to uncap it, which is done by shaving off the thin caps. To do this, nothing is better than Fig. 93. Fic, 94. is beveled to the edge. It is, perhaps, sometimes desirable to have a curved point (Fig. 94), though this is not at all essen- tial. USE OF THE EXTRACTOR. Although some of our most experienced apiarists say nay, it is nevertheless a fact, that the queen often remains idle, or extrudes her eggs only to be lost, simply because there are no empty cells. The honey yield is so great that the workers occupy every available space, and sometimes even they become unwilling idlers, simply because of necessity. Seldom a year has passed but that i have noticed some of my most prolific queens thus checked in duty. It is probable that just the proper arrangement and best management of frames for sur- ae would make such occasions rare; yet, I have seen the rood-chamber in two-story hives, with common frames above —the very best arrangement to promote storing above the brood-chamber—so crowded as to force the queen either to idleness or to egg-laying in the upper frames. This fact, as When to use the Extractor. 209 also the redundant brood, and excessive storing that follows upon extracting from the brood-chamber, makes me emphatic upon this point, notwithstanding the fact that some men of wide experience and great intelligence think me wrong. The extractor also enables the apiarist to secure honey— extracted honey—in poor seasons, when he could get very little, if any, in sections or boxes. By use of the extractor we can avoid swarming, and thus work for honey instead of increase of colonies. By use of the extractor, at any time or season, the apiarist can secure nearly if not quite double the amount of honey that he could get in combs. It requires much more skill to succeed in procuring comb honey than is required to secure extracted. The beginner will usually succeed far better if he work for extracted honey. The extractor enables us to remove uncapped honey in the fall, which, if left in the hive, may cause disease and death. By use of the extractor, too, we can throw the honey from our surplus brood-combs in the fall, and thus have a salable article, and have the empty combs, which are invaluable for use the next spring. If the revolving racks of the extractor have a wire basket attachment (Fig. 92) as I have suggested, the uncapped sec- tions can be emptied in the fall, if desired ; and pieces of drone- comb cut from the brood-chamber, which are so admirable for starters in the sections, can be emptied of their honey at any season. By use of the extractor, we can furnish, at one-half the price we ask for comb-honey, an article which is equal, if not superior, to the best comb-honey, and which, were it not for appearance alone, would soon drive the latter from the market. Indeed, extracted honey is gaining so rapidly in public fa- vor that even now its production is far in excess of that of comb-honey. WHEN TO USE THE EXTRACTOR. If extracted honey can be sold for fifteen cents, or even for ten or twelve, the extractor may be used profitably the summer through; otherwise use it sufficiently often that there may always be empty worker-cells in the brood-chamber. It is often required with us during the three great honey 210 To Purify Honey. harvests—the white clover, basswood, and that of fall flowers. I have always extracted the honey so frequently as to avoid much uncapping. If the honey is thin, [ would keep it in a dry warm room, or apply a mild heat, that it might thicken, and escape danger from fermentation. jo Many have sustained loss by extracting prematurely, so perhaps the beginner better not extract till after the bees have commenced to seal the honey. The labor of uncapping, with the excellent honey knives now at our command, is so light that we can afford to run no risk that the honey produced at our apiaries shall sour and become worthless. If the honey granulates, it can be reduced to the fluid state with no injury, by heating, though the temperature should never rise above 200° F. This can best be done by placing the vessel containing the honey in another containing water, though if the second vessel be set on a stove, a tin basin or pieces of wood should prevent the honey vessel from touching the bottom, else the honey will burn. As before statéd, the best honey is always sure to crystallize, but it may be prevented by keeping it in a temiperature which is constantly above 80° F. If canned honey is set on top of a furnace in whien a fire is kept burning, 1t will remain liquid indefinitely. The fact that honey granulates is the best test of its purity. To be sure, some honey does not crystallize, but it is so rare that we may pretty safely decide that granulated honey is un- adulterated. To render the honey free from small pieces of comb, or other impurities, it should either be passed through a cloth or wire sieve—I purposely refrain from the use of the word strainer, as we should neither use the word strained, nor allow it to be used, in connection with extracted honey—or else draw it off into a barrel, with a faucet or molasses gate near the lower end, and after all particles of solid matter have risen to the top, draw off the clear honey from the bottom. In case of very thick honey, this method is not so satisfactory as the first. I hardly need say that honey, when heated, is thinner, and will of course pass more readily through common toweling or fine wire cloth. Never allow the queen to be forced to idleness for want of empty cells. Extract all uncapped honey in the fall, and the honey from all the brood-combs not needed for winter. The Comb Box. 211 honey should also be thrown from pieces of drone-comb which are cut from the brood-frames, and from the uncapped comb in sections at the close of the season. HOW TO EXTRACT. The apiarist should possess one or two light comb boxes or baskets (Fig. 95), of sufficient size to hold all the frames from a single hive. These should have convenient handles, and a close-fitting cover, which will slide either way. Now, go to Fie. 95. Comb Box. two or three colonies, and take enough combs, and of the right kind, for a colony. The bees may be shaken off or brushed off with a large feather, pine twig, or other brush. If the bees are troublesome, close the box as soon as each comb is placed inside. Extract the honey from these, using care not to turn so hard as to throw out the brood. If necessary, with a thin knife pare off the caps, and after throwing the honey from one side, turn the comb around, and extract it from the other. If the combs are of very different weights, it will be better for the extractor to use those of nearly equal weights on opposite sides, as the strain will be much less. Now take these combs to another colony, whose combs shall be replaced by them. Then close the hive, extract this second set of combs, and thus proceed till all the honey has been extracted, At the close, 212 Bee Tent. the one or two colonies from which the first combs were taken shall receive pay from the last set extracted, and thus, with much saving of time, little disturbance of bees, and the least invitation to robbing, in case there is no gathering, we have gone rapidly through the apiary. : Some apiarists take the first set of combs from a single colony and leave that colony without combs till they are through for the day. . In case the bees are not gathering, we shall escape robbing and stings by use of the tent (Fig. 96). This covers the hive Fie. 96. ioe Iain Bee Tent. and operator. The one figured is very ingenious in its con- struction, is light and cheap. Mr. Root sells it all made for use for one dollar. fe TO KEEP EXTRACTED HONEY. Extracted honey, if to be sold in cans or bottles, may be run into them from the extractor. The honey should be thick, and the vessels may be sealed or corked, and boxed at once. If large quantities of honey are extracted, it may be most conveniently kept in barrels. These should be first-class, and To Keep Extracted Honey. 213 ought to be waxed before using them, to make assurance doubly sure against any leakage. To wax the barrels, we may use beeswax, but paraffine is cheaper, and just as efficient. Three or four quarts of the hot paraffine or wax should be turned into the barrel, the bung driven in tight, the barrel twirled in every position, after which the bung is loosened by a blow with the hammer, and the residue of the wax turned out. Economy requires that the barrels be warm when waxed, so that only a thin coat will be appropriated. Large tin cans, waxed and soldered at the openings after being filled, are cheap, and may be the most desirable recep- tacles for extracted honey. Extracted honey should always be kept in dry apartments. If thin when extracted, it should be kept in open barrels or cans in a warm dry room till it has thoroughly ripened. 214 Working for Comb-Honey. CHAPTER XIII. WORKING FOR COMB-HONEY. While extracted honey has so much to recommend it, and is rapidly growing in favor with American apiarists, still such reports as that of Dr. C. C. Miller, who the past season in- creased his 174 colonies to 202, and took 16,000 pounds of comb-honey in one pound sections, which netted him very nearly $3,000, and that of Mr. Doolittle, who has secured nearly 100 pounds of comb-honey per colony for a long series of years, may well lead us not to ignore this branch of our busi- ness. The showy horse, or the red short-horn, may not be in- trinsically superior to the less attractive animals; but they will always win in the market. So comb-honey, in the beautiful one pound sections, will always attract buyers and secure the highest price. As more embark in the production of extract- ed honey, higher will be the price of the irresistible, incom- parable comb-honey. Well then may we study how to secure the most of this exquisite product of the bees, in a form that shall rival in attractiveness that of the product itself, for very likely the state of the market in some localities will make its production the most profitable feature of apiculture. POINTS TO CONSIDER. To secure abundance of comb-honey the colonies must be very strong, and the brood combs full of brood at the dawn of the honey harvest. The swarming fever must be kept at bay or cured, before the rapid storing commences, and the honey should be secured in the most attractive form. TO SECURE STRONG COLONIES. By feeding daily, whenever the bees are not storing, com- mencing as soon as the bees commence to store pollen, we shall almost certainly secure this result. We should also use the division board, and keep the bees crowded, especially if weak in the spring. Only give them the number of combs that they can cover. Keep them warmly covered above and on To Avoid Swarming. 215 the sides. True, Mr. Heddon objects to this work of feeding and manipulating division boards, and makes much honey and money. I have often wondered what his genius and skill would accomplish should he vary his method in this respect. Instead of feeding by use of the Smith (Fig. 76) or other feeder, we may uncap a comb of honey and with it separate combs of brood as the bees get two or three full frames of the latter. This will stimulate the bees, and as they will carry the honey from the uncapped cells the queen will be impelled to most rapid laying. By turning around the brood coombs, ‘or sepa- rating them by adding combs with empty cells as the colonies gain in strength, we hasten brood-rearing to the utmost. TO AVOID THE SWARMING FEVER. This is not always possible by any method, and has been the obstacle in the way of successful comb-honey production. The swarming impulse and great yields of this delectable prod- uct are entirely antagonistic. Mr. James Heddon, Davis, and others let the bees swarm. They hive these swarms on foundation, and hope to have this all done, and both colonies strong, in time for the honey harvest. Some of our best Mich- igan and New York bee-keepers, with Dr. Miller, let the bees swarm, and return them, either caging the queen or placing her in a nucleus for nine days, then return her to the bees, after cutting out the queen cells. This takes nothing from the energy of the bees, and will doubtless work best of all methods in the hands of the beginner. If increase is desired, however, then Mr. Heddon’s method should be followed. The yield of comb-honey in this last case will not usually be so great, though in excellent seasons it may be greater. Some very able bee-keepers manipulate so skillfully, by adding empty combs to the hives, as to keep this swarming im- pulse in check, aad still keep the bees increasing most rapidly. Others divide the colonies, and so hold at bay the swarm- ing fever. All must practice as their own experience proves best, as the same method will not have equal value with differ- ent persons. We must work as best we can to secure strong colonies, and check or retard the swarming fever, and while learning by experience to do this, may well work the most of our bees for extracted honey, which is more easily secured, 216 Starting Sections. and is sure to be in demand, even though the price is less. The quantity may more than compensate for lower price. ADJUSTMENT OF SECTIONS. As before suggested, a wide space between bottom bars of sections—three-eighths inch—is desirable. The sections should be on at the very dawn of each honey harvest, as white clover, bass-wood, etc. At first the full set of sections better not be added, but as soon as the bees commence to work well in them, then all should be added, on side and top, if side storing is practiced, and if we wish to tier up, the crate of sections first. added should be raised and others added below. As already stated it is best not to have the sections too closely shut in. Slight ventilation is desirable. If the queen troubles by entering the sections, use may be made of the perforated zinc (Fig. 60) to keep her from them. As already suggested, we must arrange the form and size of sections as the market and our hives and apparatus make most desirable. We may vary the size and form of our sections so as to make them smaller and yet use the same crates or frames that we used with larger sections. Small sections are most ready of sale, and safest to ship; yet with their use, we secure less honey. If we can get nice straight combs by having them less thick without using separators in the sections, so that these latter can be readily placed side by side in shipping crates, then we, by all means, better omit the separators. If we use separators, we can use wood or tin. Wood is cheapest, and I find that in practice it serves as well as tin. GETTING BEES INTO SECTIONS. The crowded hive or brood-chamber, with no intent to swarm, the wide spaces between sections, and a rich harvest of nectar, will usually send the bees into the sections with a rush. If they refuse to go, a little drone brood, or the exchange of sections temporarily from above to the hrood-nest, or the mov- ing of a brood-frame up beside the sections for a short time, as before described, will frequently start the bees into the sections. Some apiarists have their crates with sections so made that they can be placed between the brood frames till the bees commence to work in the sections; others accomplish the same end by in- Removing Sections. 217 verting the frames. With experience will come the skill which can accomplish this, simply by management of the bees with- out resort to such measures as just described. REMOVAL OF SECTIONS. The three-eighths inch space between the upper as well as the lower bars of the sections enables us to see quickly the condition of each section just by removal of the cover. Each section should be removed as soon as capped, if we would have it very nice. Any delay will make it dark and hurt its sale. During the harvest we should add other sections to take the place of those removed. ‘Towards the close of the harvest we should not add other sections, for, by contracting the space, the last sections will be more surely filled and quickly capped. To remove the bees from single sections taken from frame or crate, we have only to brush them off. If we take a full crate at once, we can set it in a dark box or room, with some small opening for the bees to escape. If the hole is at one side and is covered by wire cloth, which should be separated from the box three-eighths of an inch, by placing lath between it and the box, and made to extend three inches above the opening, outside bees will fail to enter, while those within will readily pass out. I have used a box with no cover, and by spread- ing a sheet on this the bees would collect on the sheet. I would occasionally turn the sheet over. With the old boxes, such arrangements were more necessary. Now, with smoke and brush we can often dispense with other aids. As comb-honey is in better condition for market if it is stored for a few days where the air can circulate freely about it, it is always well to fumigate it by burning sulphur in a close room or box. It is well to do this, even though the honey is to be immediately shipped. 218 Handling Bees. CHAPTER XIV. HANDLING BEES. But some one asks the question, shall we not receive those merciless stings, or be introduced to what ‘“‘Josh” calls the ‘‘business end of the bee?” Perhaps there is no more cause- less or more common dread in existence than this of bees’ stings. When bees are gathering, they will never sting unless provoked. When at the hives—especially if Italians—they will rarely make an attack. The common belief, too, that some persons are more liable to attack than others, is, I think, erroneous. With the best opportunity to judge, with our hundreds of students, I think I may safely say that one is almost always as liable to attack as another, except that he is more quiet, or does not greet the usually amiable passer-by with those terrific thrusts, which would vanquish even a prac- ticed pugilist. Occasionally a person may have a peculiar odor about his person that angers bees and invites their darting tilts, with drawn swords, venom-tipped ; yet, though I take my large classes each season, at frequent intervals, to see and handle the bees, each for himself, I still await the first proof of the fact that one person is more liable to be stung than another, pos each carries himself with that composed and dignified earing that is so pleasing to the bees. True, some people, filled with dread, and the belief that bees regard them with special hate and malice, are so ready for the battle that they commence the strife with nervous head-shakes and beating of the air, and thus force the bees to battle, nolentes volentes. I believe that only such are regarded with special aversion by the bees. Hence, I believe that no one need be stung. Bees should never be jarred, nor irritated by quick motions. Those with nervous temperaments—and I plead very guilty on this point—need not give up, but at first better protect their faces, and perhaps even their hands, till time and experience show them that fear is vain; then they will divest themselves of all such useless encumbrances. Bees are more cross when they are gathering no honey, and at such times, black bees and hybrids especially, are so irritable that even the expe- rienced apiarist will wish a veil. Bee Veil and Gloves. 219 f THE BEST BEE VEIL. This should be made of black tarlatan, sewed up like a bag, a half yard long, without top or bottom, and with a diameter of the rim of a common straw-hat. Gather the top with braid, so that it will just slip over the crown of the hat—else, sew it to the edge of the rim of sume cheap, cool hat, in fact, I prefer this style—and gather the bottom with rubber cord or rubber tape, so that it may be drawn over the hat rim, and then over the head, as we adjust the hat. Some prefer to dispense with the rubber cord at the bottom (Fig. 97), and have the veil long so as to be gathered in by the coat or dress. If the black tarlatan troubles by coloring Fig. 97. the shirt or collar, the lower part may be made of white net- ting. When in use, the rubber cord draws the lower part close about the neck, or the lower part tucks within the coat or vest (Fig. 97), and we are safe. This kind of a veil is cool, does not impede vision at all, and can be made by any woman ata cost of less than twenty cents. Common buck-skin or sheep-skin gloves can be used, as it will scarcely pay to get special gloves for the purpose, for the most timid person—I speak from experience—will soon consider gloves an unneces- sary nuisance. Special rubber gloves are sold by those who keep on hand apiarian supplies. It is reported that heavily starched linen 220 Ladies’ Dress. is proof against the bees’ sting, and so may be used for gloves or other clothing. Some apiarists think that dark clothing is specially obnoxious to bees. It is certainly true that fuzzy woolen, and even hairs on one’s hands are very irritating to bees. Clothes with a heavy nap should be rejected by the bee- keeper, and the Esaus should singe the hair from their hands. For ladies, my friend, Mrs. Baker, recommends a dress which, by use of the rubber skirt-lift or other device, can be instantly raised or lowered. This will be convenient in the apiary, and tidy anywhere. The Gabrielle style is preferred, and of a length just to reach the floor. It should be belted at the waist, and cut down from the neck in front, one-third the length of the waist, to permit the tucking in of the veil. The under-waist should fasten close about the neck. The sleeves should be quite long to allow free use of the arms, and gathered in with a rubber cord at the wrist, which will hug the rubber gauntlets or arm, and prevent bees from crawling up the sleeves. The pantalets should be straight and full, and should also have the rubber cord in the hem to draw them close about the top of the shoes. Mrs. Baker also places great stress on the wet ‘‘head-cap,” which she believes the men even would find a great comfort. This is a simple, close-fitting cap, made of two thicknesses of coarse toweling. The head is wet with cold water, and the cap wet in the same, wrung out, and placed on the head. Mrs. Baker would have the dress neat and clean, and so trimmed that the lady apiarist would ever be ready to greet her brother or sister apiarists. In such a dress there is no danger of stings, and with it there is that show of neatness and taste, without which no pursuit could attract the attention, or at least the patronage, of our refined women. TO QUIET BEES. In harvest seasons, the bees, especially if Italians, can almost always be handled without their showing resentment. But at other times, and whenever they object to necessary familiarity, we have only to cause them to fill with honey to render them harmless, unless we pinch them. This can be done by closing the hive so that the bees cannot get out, and then rapving on the hive for four or five minutes. Those within will fill with honey, those without will be tamed by surprise, and all The Smoker 221 will be quiet. Sprinkling the bees with sweetened water will also tend to render them amiable, and will make them more ready to unite, to receive a queen, and less apt to sting. Still another method, more convenient, is to smoke the bees. A little smoke blown among the bees will scarcely ever fail to quiet them, though I have known black bees, inautumn, to be very slow to yield. The Syrian bees are maddened rather than quieted by use of smoke. I find, however,.that with handling they soon become more like Italians. Deliberation is specially desirable when we first open the hive of Syrian bees. Dry cotton cloth, closely wound and sewed or tied, or, better, pieces of dry, rotten wood are excellent for the purpose of smoking. ‘These are easily handled, and will burn for a long time. But best of all is a BELLOWS-SMOKER, This is a tin tube attached to a bellows. Cloth, corn-cobs, or rotten wood (that which has been attacked by dry rot is the Fig. 99. Fie, 98. best) can be burned in the tube, and will remain burning a long time. The smoke can be directed at pleasure, the bellows easily worked, and the smoker used without any disagreeable effects or danger from fire. 222 To Smoke Bees. THE QUINBY SMOKER. This smoker (Fig. 98, a) was a gift to bee-keepers by the late Mr. Quinby, and not patented; though I supposed it was, and so stated in a former edition of this work. Though a similar device had been previously used in Europe, without doubt Mr. Quinby was not aware of the fact, and as he was the person to bring it to the notice of bee-keepers, and to make it so perfect as to challenge the attention and win the favor of apiarists instanter, he is certainly worthy of great praise, and deserving of hearty gratitude. This first smoker has been improved (Fig. 98, 5) in what is now sold as the Improved Quinby. Mr. Bingham was the first to improve the old Quinby smoker in establishing a direct draft (Fig. 99). Mr. Clark next added the cold draft (Fig. 100). Fic. 100, There are now several smokers on the market, each of which _has its merits and its friends. No person who keeps even a single colony of bees, can afford to do without some one of them. TO SMOKE BEES. Approach the hive, blow a little smoke in at the entrance, then open from above, and blow in smoke as required. If, at any time, the bees seem irritable, a few puffs from the smoker will subdue them. Thus, any person may handle his bees with perfect freedom and safety. If, at any time, the Treatment of Stings. 223 fire-chamber and escape-pipe of the smoker become filled with soot, they can easily be cleaned by revolving an iron or hard- wood stick inside of them. CHLOROFORM. Mr. Jones finds that chloroform is very useful in quieting bees. He puts a dry sponge in the tube of the smoker, then a sponge wet in chloroform—it takes but a tew drops—then puts in another dry sponge. These dry sponges prevent the escape of the chlo ‘oform, except when the bellows is worked. Mr. Jones finds that bees partially stupitied witb chloroform ‘aceive queens without dny show of ill-will. As soon as the bees begin to fall, the queen is put into the hive and no more of the vapor added. * tried this last summer with perfect success. This was recommended years ago in Germany, but its use seems to have been abandoned. It is more than like- ly that Mr. Jones’ method of applying the ansethetic is what makes it more valuable. The smoker diffuses the vapor so that all bees receive it, and none get toomuch. I should use ether insteadof chloroform, as with higher animals it is a little more mild and safe. TO CURE STINGS. In case a person is stung, he should step back a little for a moment, as the pungent odor of the venom is likely to anger the dees and induce further stinging By forcing a little smoke from the smoker onto the part stung, we will obscure this odor. The sting should be rubbed off at once. I say rubbed, for we should not grasp it with the finger-nails, as that crowds more poison into the wound. If the pain is such as to prove trouble- some, apply a little ammonia. The venom is an acid, and is neutralized by the alkali. A strong solution of saltpetre I have found nearly as good to relieve pain as the ammonia. Ice cold water drives the blood from any part of our body to which it is applied, and, so it often gives relief to quickly immerse the part stung in very cold water. In case horses are badly stung, as sometimes happens, they should be taken as speedily as possible into a barn (a man, too, may escape angry bees by entering a building) whiere the bees will seldom follow, then wash the horses in soda water, and cover with blankets wet in cold water. 224 Bee Tent. THE SWEAT THEORY. It is often stated that sweaty horses and people are obnoxious to the bees, and hence almost sure targets for their barbed arrows. In warm weather I perspire most profusely, yet am scarcely ever stung, since I have learned to control my nerves, I once kept my bees in the front yard—they looked beautiful on the green lawn—within two rods of a main thoroughfare, and not infrequently let my horse, covered with sweat upon my return from a drive, crop the grass, while cooling off, right in the same yard. Of course, there was some danger, but I never knew my horse to get stung. Why, then, the theory? May not the more frequent stings be consequent upon the warm, nervous condition of the individual? The man is more ready to strike and jerk, the horse to stamp and switch. The switching of the horse’s tail, like the whisker trap of a full beard, will anger even a good-natured bee. I should dread the motions more than the sweat, though it may be true that there is a peculiarity in the odor from either the sensible or insensible perspiration of some persons, that angers the bees and provokes the use of their terrible weapons. Often when there is no honey to gather, as when we take the last honey in autumn, or prepare the bees for winter, the bees are inordinately cross. This is especially true of black bees and hybrids. At such times I have found an invaluable aid in THE BEE TENT. This also keeps all robbers from mischief. It is simply a tent which entirely covers the hive, bees, bee-keeper and all. The one I use (Fig. 101) is light, large, and easily moved, or folded up if we wish to put it in the house. The sides are rectangular frames made of light pine strips, well placed (Fig. 101, 5, 6), and covered with wire cloth. The top and ends are covered with factory cloth, except at one end, where it is fastened at will by rings which hook over screws. The sides have no permanent connection of wood except at the ends (Fig. 101, ¢, ¢). The small strips which connect at these places are double, and hinged to the side frames, and the two parts of each hinged together. Thus these may drop, and so permit the side frames to come close together when we wish to ‘fold our tent.” The sides are kept apart by center cross- * 2 Bee Tent. 225 strips at ‘the ends (Fig. 101, a, a), from which braces (Fig. 101, i, 7) extend to the double cross-strips above. These 2. Fie. 101. ous) yyy A peatiuan iemdae n rrr b Add ddd tol ive nama at aaa ae Sept Tet St a ;eORRSEEBTY TTT t ie ee Rael te yw oo aeaReoeewat eral H FE Ty ic i a WB Lit 8 ove u ie i 44 ; r Hy i M it “a C 14 a bf wy mire o eee hoht eal vis aeth a ve ' : PTET SS : ene 5 a aoa « a : i . " : See SeeY Lae = Hd : 1 iu! Z on ia cine r H a MENS } 1 iT Ri 4 Lf i ror af val i i pam + “ x i + mina t t ame 8 ro ma man : q Bee Tent, center strips, with their braces hinged to them, are separate from the rest of the frame except when hooked on as we spread the tent. After use of this tent one season, I can not praise it too highly. I have atready referred to a cheap tent made by Mr. A. I. Root (Fig. 96). 15 226 Comb Foundation. CHAPTER XV. COMB FOUNDATION. Every apiarist of experience knows that empty combs in frames, comb-guides in the sections, to tempt the bees and to insure the proper position of the full combs, in fact, combs of almost any kind or shape, are of great importance. So every skillful apiarist is very careful to save all drone comb that is cut out of the brood-chamber—where it is worse than useless, as it brings with it myriads of those useless gormands, the drones—to kill the eggs, remove the brood, or extract the honey, and transfer it to the sections. He is eqaully care- ful to keep all his worker-comb, so long as the cells are of proper size to domicile full-sized larve, and never to sell any comb, or even comb-honey, unless a much greater price makes it desirable. No wonder, then, if comb is so desirable, that German thought and Yankee ingenuity have devised means of giving the bees at least a start in this important, yet expensive work Fie. 102. of comb-building, and hence the origin of another great aid to the apiarist—comb foundation (Fig. 102). HISTORY. For more than twenty-five years the Germans have used im- pressed sheets of wax as a foundation for comb, as it was first made by Herr Mehring, in 1857. These sheets are four or five times as thick as the partition at the center of natural comb, which is very thin, only 1-180 of an inch thick. This American Foundation. 227 is pressed between metal plates so accurately formed that the wax receives rhomboidal impressions which are a fac simile of the basal wall or partition between the opposite cells of natural comb. The thickness of this sheet is no objection, as it is found that the bees almost always thin it down to the natural thickness, and use the shavings to form the walls. AMERICAN FOUNDATION. Mr. Wagner secured a patent on foundation in 1861, but as the article was already in use in Germany, the patent was, as we understand, of no legal value, and certainly, as it did nothing to bring this desirable article into use, it had no virtual value. Mr. Wagner was also the first to suggest the idea of rollers, In Langstroth’s work, edition of 1859, p. 373, occurs the following, in reference to printing or stamping combs: ‘“‘Mr. Wagner suggests forming these outlines with a simple instrument somewhat like a wheel cake cutter. When a large number are to be made, a machine might easily be constructeted which would stamp them with great rapidity. In 1866, the King Brothers, of New York, in accordance with the above suggestion, made the first machine with rollers, the product of which they tried to get patented but failed. These stamped rollers were less than two inches long. ‘This machine was use- less, and failed to bring foundation into general use. j In 1874, Mr. Frederick Weiss, a poor German, invented the machine which brought the foundation into general use. His machine had lengthened rollers—they being six inches long—and shallow grooves between the pyramidal projections, so that there was a very shallow cell raised from the basal im- pression as left by the German plates. This was the machine on which was made the beautiful and practical foundation sent out by ‘“‘John Long,” in 1874 and 1875, and which proved to the American apiarists that foundation machines, and foun- dation, were to be a success. I used some of this early foun- dation, and have been no more successful with that made by the machines of to-day. To Frederick Weiss, then, are Ameri- cans and the world indebted for this invaluable aid to the apiarist. In 1876, Mr. A. I. Root commenced in his energetic, enthu- siastic way, and soon brought the roller machine and foundatiun into general use, These machines, though a great aid to api- 228 Dunham Machine. culture, were still imperfect, and though sold at an extrava- gantly high price—through no fault of Mr. Root, as he informs me—were in great demand. Next, Mrs. F. Dunham greatly improved the machine by so-making the rolls (Fig. 103) that Fie. 103. the foundation would have a very thin base and high thick walls which, in the manufacture, were not greatly pressed. These three points are very desirable in all foundation—thin base and thick, high walls, which shall not be compactly pressed. Mrs. Dunham is not only entitled to gratitude for the supe- rior excellence of the machines she manufactured, but by put- ting so excellent a machine onto the market at a lower price, all roller machines had to besold more reasonably. Mr. Van- dervort also improved the rollers, so that his machine secures the same results as does Mrs. Dunham’s, while the form of the foundation is somewhat more natural, though not preferred by the bees I think. Another form of foundation—that with flat bottom—is made by the VanDeusen mill. This has a very thin base, and is very handsome. It was made to use with wires. In my experience this flat bottom foundation is not as acceptable to the bees as the other kinds. Mr. Root has kept his machine abreast with the latest improvements. Mr. Pel- ham has invented rolls that are made in rings or sections, Press for Foundation. 229 each ring the width of acell. Such rolls, if they work well, ana I see no reason why they should not, will reduce the price of machines so that all—even small apiarists—can afford to own them. THE PRESS FOR FOUNDATION. Mr. D. A. Given, of Illinois, has given a press (Fig. 104) that stamps the sheets by plates and not by rolls, which, at ' Fie. 104. present, is giving better satisfaction than even the improved roller machines. This shuts up like a book and the wax sheets, instead of passing between carved metal. rollers, are stamped by a press after being placed in position. The advantages of this press as claimed by its friends—which seem to number all who-have used it—are that the foundation has the requisites already referred to, par excellence, that it is easily and rapidly worked, and that foundation can at once be pressed into the wired frames. Rubber plates have also been made but as yet have not won general favor or acceptance. All of these improved machines give us foundation of exquisite mold and with such rapidity that it can be made cheap and 230 Foundation Making. practical. As Mr. Heddon says, the bees in two days, with foundation, will do more than they would in eight days with- outit. Every one who wishes the best success must use founda- tion not only in the brood chamber but in sections. Whoever has 100 colonies of bees may well own a machine for himself. HOW FOUNDATION IS MADE. The process of making the foundation is very simple. Thin sheets of wax, of the desired thickness, are pressed between the plates or passed between the rolls, which are made so as to stamp either drone or worker foundation as desired. Worker is best, I think, even for sections. he only difficulty in the way of very rapid work is that from sticking of the wax sheets to the dies. Mr. Heddon finds that by wetting the dies with concentrated lye the wax is not injured and sticking is pre- vented. Mr. Jones uses soap-suds with excellent success for the same purpose. Think of two men running through fifty pounds of foundation in an hour! That is what I saw two men do at Mr. Jones’, with a Dunham machine, by use of soap- suds. The man who put in the wax sheets was not delayed at all. The kind of soap should be selected with care. Mr. Root prefers common starch to either lye or soap-suds. New machines are more liable to trouble with sticking than are those that have been used for some time. TO SECURE THE WAX SHEETS. The wax should be melted in a double walled tin vessel, with water between the walls, so that in no case would it be burned or overheated. To form the sheets a dipping board of the width and length of the desired sheets, is the best. It should be made of pine, and should be true and very smooth. This is first dipped into cold water, then one’ end is dipped quickly into the melted wax, then raised till dripping ceases—only a second—this end dipped into the cold water, grasped by means of a dextrous toss with the hands and the other end treated the same way. The thing is repeated if necessary till the sheet is thick enough. Twice dipping is enough for brood combs, once for sections. We now only have to shave the edges with a sharp knife, and. we can peel off two fine sheets of wax. This is Mr. Jones’ plan, and is better than to dip only one end of the board, as in that case the wax runs down the board and the sheets are Use of Foundation. 231 thickest at one end. With the device of Mr. Jones the wax runs to the ends, and to make the middle as thick, the board is lowered in the melted wax below the centre. At Mr. Jones’ Isaw one man dip the sheets as fast as two men could run them through the machine. Mr. Heddon, who has used nearly all of the roller machines, thinks Given’s press can be used more easily and rapidly than any of them. This seems to me hardly possible, yet we must remember that the press puts the fuunda- tion right into the wired frames. Surely Mr. Jones’ accom- plishment with the Dunham Mill leaves little to be desired. For cutting foundation, nothing is so admirable as the Car- lin cutter (Fig. 105, a), which is like the wheel glass-cutters Fic. 105. Fic. 106. sold in the shops, except that a larger wheel of tin takes the place of the one of hardened steel. Mr. A. I. Root has sug- gested a grooved board (Fig. 105, b) to go with the above, the distance between the grooves being equal to the desired width of the strips of comb foundation to be cut. For cutting smaller sheets for the sections the same device may be used. I saw Mr. Jones cut these as fast as a boy would cut circular wads for his shot-gun, by use of a sort of modified cake cutter (Fig. 106). USE OF FOUNDATION. An empty frame should never be put in the brood-chamber. Even if eandabon was one dollar a pound it still would pay richly to use it. It is astonishing to see how rapidly the bees will extend the cells, and how readily the queen will stock them with eggs if of the right size, five cells to the inch. 232 How to use Foundation. The foundations should always be the right size either for worker ov drone-comb. Of course the latter size would never be, used in the brood-chamber. I much doubt if it is wise to use it at all. ‘The advantage of foundation is, first, to insure worker- comb, and thus worker-brood, and second, to furnish wax, so that the bees may be free to gather honey. We have proved in our apiary repeatedly, that by use of foundation, and a lit- tle care in pruning out the drone-comb, we could limit or even exclude drones from our hiyes, and we have but to examine the capacious and constantly crowded stomachs of these idlers to appreciate the advantage of such a course. Bees may oc- casionally tear down worker-cells, and build drone-cells in their place; but such action, I believe, is not sufficiently extensive to ever cause anxiety. Iam also certain that bees that have to secrete wax to form comb, do much less gathering. Wax secretion seems voluntary, and when rapid seems to require quiet and great consumption of food. If we make two artifi- cial colonies equally strong, supply the one with combs, and withhold them from the other, we will find that this last sends far less bees to the fields, while all the bees are more or less engaged in wax secretion. Thus the other colony gains much more rapidly in honey; first, because more bees are stor- ing; second, because less food is consumed. This is undoubt- edly the reason why extracted honey can be secured in far greater abundance than can comb-honey. Unless the frames are wired, the foundation should only touch the top of the frame where it is securely fastened. If wired, the frames should be full. It also pays remarkably well to use foundation in the sec- tions. With proper care, all talk about ‘‘the fish bone” need not frighten any one. Foundation for the sections should be about seven feet to the pound, while that for the brood-chamber is better at five feet. The foundation should fill the sections. Of course, foundation for the sections—in fact, all foundation— should only be made of nicest, cleanest wax. Only pure, clean, unbleached wax should be used in making foundation. We should be very careful not to put on the market any comb-honey where the foundation has not been properly thinned by the bees. Perhaps a very fine needle would enable one to determine this point without injury to the honey. With our present founda- tion there is little danger. To Fasten Foundation. 233 TO FASTEN THE FOUNDATION. In the thin sections, the foundation can best be fastened by use of the melted wax. To accomplish this, I have used a block made thus: Saw a board that is one-half of an inch thinner than half the depth of the section, so that it will just exactly fit in the section. Screw this to a second board, which is one-half inch broader each way, so that the larger under board will project one-quarter of an inch each side the top board. Now set the section over the top board, place the foundation, cut a trifle shorter than the inside of the section, within, close to the top and one side of the section, and cause it to adhere by running on a little of the melted wax, which, by use of a kerosene lamp or stove, may be kept melted. If the basin is double-walled, with water in the outer chamber and wax in the inner, it is much safer, as then the wax will never burn. A warm iron run on the foundation just at the edge, will also glue it to the section. If the tops of the sections are thick, they may be grooved, and by crowding the foundation into the groove, and, if neces- sary, pressing it- with a thin wedge, it will be securely held. This last method will work nicely in case of fastening into the brood-frames. But I have found that I could fasten them rapidly and very securely by simply pressing them against the rectangular projection from the top-bar already described. In this case a block (Fig. 107, a,) should reach up into the frame from the side which is nearest to the rectangular projection— it will be remembered that the projection (Fig. 45) is a little to one side of the center of the top bar, so that the foundation shall hang exactly in the center—so far that its upper surface would be exactly level with the upper surface of the rectangu- lar projection. This block, like the one described above, has shoulders (Fig. 107, ¢), so that it will always reach just the proper distance into the frame. It is also rabbeted at the edge where the projection of the top-bar of the frame will rest (Fig. 107, 6), so that the projection has a solid support, and will not split off with pressure. We now set our frame on this block, lay on our foundation, cut the size we desire, which, unless strengthened, will be as long as the frame, and nearly as wide. The foundation will rest firmly on the projection and block, and touch the top-bar at every point. We now take a board as thick as the projection is deep, and as wide 234 To Fasten Foundation. (Fig. 108, d) as the frame is long, which may be trimmed off, so as to have a convenient handle (Fig. 108, e), and by wetting the edge of this (Fig. 108, d) either in water, or, better, starch-water, and pressing with it on the foundation Fie. 107. Fia. 108. e€ above the projection, the foundation will be made to adhere firmly to the latter, when the frame may be raised with the block, taken off, and another fastened as before. I have prac- ticed this plan for years, and have had admirable success, I have very rarely known the foundation to drop if made of good wax, though it must be remembered that our hives are shaded, and our frames small. The above methods are successful, but probably will receive valuable modifications at the hands of the ingenious apiarists of our land. If we have frames with the V-shaped top-bar (Fig. 44), we may easily break the foundation and press it on, as shown in Fig. 109, Wired Frames. 235 WIRED FRAMES. But as foundation does sometimes fall or sag, so that many cells are changed to drone-cells, or warp into awkward shapes, especially if the hive is unshaded, or receives a full colony of bees with all its frames full of foundation, and as the wax is sometimes so. brittle that it will not hold together, however well fastened, wired frames.(Fig. 110) are rapidly coming into Fig. 110. ern ead use. Another point strongly in favor of such frames is, that they can be handled or shipped, and there is not the least danger of their combs falling from the frames. The wires should be two inches apart, and the extreme wires not more than one- half inch from the side of the frame. They may be fastened by passing through holes in the top and bottom bars of the frames, which must be exactly in the center, or they may be hooked over little hooks, such as may be made by driving a staple into the frame after we have cut one limb of the staple off near the curve. If holes are to be made through the top bars of the frame, they can be easily formed by use of sharp awls. If these are set in a strong block like an iron rake, each bar can be pierced at one stroke by use of a lever press. If the foundation is to be stamped in the frame by the Given Press, then the wire should be No. 36; if it is to be put on by hand, then No. 30 must be used. Tinned wire should be used. Some, even with the Given Press, prefer to put the foundation onto the wires by hand. In this case the foundation should be warmed till quite soft, then laid on the wires, and by use of a shoe-buttoner, with a longitudinal groove cut into the con- vex side of the curve, pressed onto the wires. This work is easily and rapidly performed. IL SAVE THE WAX. As foundation is becoming so popular, it behooves us all to be very careful that no old comb goes to waste. Even now 236 To Save the Waz. the supply of wax in the country is scarce equal to the demand, Soiled drone-comb, old, worthless worker-comb, all the comb in the old hives if we use Mr. Heddon’s method of transferring, and all fragments that cannot be used in the hives, together with cappings, after the honey is drained out through a coarse bag or colander—which process may be hastened by a moderate heat, not sufficient to melt the wax, and frequent stirring— should be melted, cleansed, and molded into cakes of wax, soon to be again stamped, not by the bees, but by wondrous art. METHODS. A slow and wasteful method is to melt in a vessel of heated water, and to purify by turning off the top, or allowing to cool, when the impurities at the bottom are scraped off, and the process repeated till all impurities are eliminated. A better method to separate the wax is to put it into a strong, rather coarse bag, then sink this in water and boil. At intervals the comb in the bag should be pressed and stirred. The wax will collect on top of the water. To prevent the wax from burning, the bag should be kept from touching the bottom of the vessel by inverting a basin in the bottom of the latter, or else by using a double-walled vessel. The process should be repeated till the wax is perfectly cleansed. But as wax is to become so important, and as the above methods are slow, wasteful, and apt to give a poor quality of Fia. 111. Swiss Wax Extractor. wax, specialists, and even amateurs who keep as many-as ten or twenty colonies of bees, may well procure a wax extractor (Fig. 111). This is also a foreign invention, the first being Wax Extractors. 237 made by Prof. Gerster, of Berne, Switzerland. These cost from five to seven dollars, are made of tin, are very conven- ient and admirable, and can be procured of any dealer in api- arian supplies. The comb is placed in the perforated vessel, and this in the larger can, which is set on a kettle of boiling water. The clean, pure wax passes out the spout. Mr. Jones has improved the common wax extractor (Fig. 112). This is what he Fie. 112. says of it: ‘‘Put extractor on stove in the same manner as an ordinary pot, having beforehand filled lower tank with water, and the perforated basket above tank with broken comb or whatever material you wish to extract wax from. The steam passes through perforated metal walls of basket, melting every particle of wax from the crude material; the wax runs out of a spout for the purpose, turned downwards; under this spout have a receptacle, which have slightly oiled, to keep wax from adhering to its walls. The tube turned upwards serves two very important purposes, viz.: to fill water into lower tank, and to 238 To Secure Wax. see if tank requires replenishing, without taking out the basket above. Keep everything but tube for wax closed, in order to lose no steam and give it full force. When not in use as an extractor it is excellent as a capping can; the cappings drop into basket, the honey drains off, leaving the remainder just where you want them to extract from.” By this invention all the wax, even of the oldest combs, can be secured, in beautiful condition, and as it is perfectly neat, there is no danger of provoking the ‘‘best woman in the world,” as we are in danger of doing by use of either of the above methods—for what is more untidy and perplexing than to have wax boil over on the stove, and perhaps get on the floor, and be generally scattered about! All pieces of comb should be put into a close box, and if any larve are in it, the comb should be melted so frequently that it will not smell badly. By taking pains, both in collect- ing and melting, the apiarist will be surprised at the close of the season, as he views his numerous and beautiful cakes of wax, and rejoice as he thinks how little trouble it has all cost. Marketing Honey. 239 CHAPTER XVI. MARKETING HONEY. No subject merits more attention by the apiarist than that of marketing honey. There is no question but that the supply is going to continually increase; hence, to sustain the price we must stimulate the demand, and by doing this we shall not only supply the people with a food element which is necessary to health, but we shall also supersede in part the commercial syrups, which are so adulterated as not only to be crowded with filth the most revolting, but are often even teeming with poison. (Report of Michigan Board of Health for 1874, pp. 75-79.) To bring, then, to our neighbor’s table the pure, wholesome, delicious nectar, right from the hive, is philan- thropy, whether he realizes it or not. Nor is it difficult to stimulate the demand. I have given special attention to this topic for the last few years, and am free to say that not a tithe of the honey is consumed in our country that might and should be. HOW TO INVIGORATE THE MARKET. First. See that no honey goes to market from your apiary that is not in the most inviting form possible. Grade all the honey thoroughly, and expect prices to correspond with the grade. See that every package and vessel is not only attract- ive, but so arranged as not to make the dealer any trouble or cause him any vexation. One leaky can or crate may do great injury. Second. See that every grocer in your vicinity has honey constantly on hand. Do all you can to build up a home mar- ket. The advice to sell to only one or two dealers is, I think, wrong. Whether we are to buy or sell, we shall find almost always that it will be most satisfactory to deal with men whom we know, and who are close at hand. Only when you out- grow your home market should you ship to distant places. This course will limit the supply in large cities, and thus raise the prices in the great marts, whose prices fix those in the country. Be sure to keep honey constantly in the markets. 240 Extracted Honey. Third. Insist that each grocer make the honey very con- spicuous. If necessary, supply large, fine labels, with your own name almost as prominent as is that of the article. Fourth. Deliver the honey in small lots, so that it will be sure to be kept in inyiting form, and, if possible, attend to the delivery yourself, that you may know that all is done “decently and in order.” Fifth. Instruct your grocers that they may make the honey show to the best effect, and thus captivate the purchaser through the sight alone. Sixth. Call local and general conventions, that all in the com- munity may know and practice the best methods, so that the markets may not be demoralized by poor, unsalable honey. It is of the greatest importance to encourage State, inter- State, and National Associations. Happily, our civilization makes every person affected by the acts of each person. Self- ishness, not less than Christianity, urges us all to be interest- ed in each other. The honey traffic reaches from State to State. Bee-keeping will never be perfect as an art till all bee- keepers act as one man. He is short-sighted that decries con- ventions. It is the experience of the world that they are val- uable in other arts. Bee-keeping is no exception. Let us all urge that the associations act in unison, from the local to the general, that all other apiarian interests no less than the mar- kets shall be in-the highest degree fostered. Each associa- tion, from the most local to the most general, has its special mission which no other can perform. PREPARATION FOR MARKETS. Of course, the method of preparation will depend largely upon the style of honey to be sold, so we will consider these kinds separately. EXTRACTED HONEY. As before intimated, extracted honey has all the flavor, and is in every way equal, if not superior—comb itself is innutri- tious and very indigestible—to comb-honey. When people once know its excellence—know that it is not ‘‘strained” — then the demand for this article will be vastly increased, to the advantage both of the consumer and the apiarist. Explain to each grocer what we mean by the word extract- Honey Receptacles. 241 ed, and ask him to spread wide the name and character of the honey. Leave cups of honey with the editors and men of in- fluence, and get them to discuss its origin and merits. I speak from experience, when I say that in these ways the reputa- tion and demand for extracted honey can be increased to a sur- prising degree, and with astonishing rapidity. HOW TO TEMPT THE CONSUMER. ’ First. Have it chiefly in small cups or pails. Many per- sons will pay twenty-five.cents for an article, when if it cost fifty cents they would not think of purchasing. Second. Study the kinds of receptacles that will take best. with the buyers. Some persons will prefer such vessels as jel- ly cups or glass fruit jars, etc., that will be useful in every household when the honey is gone. Others will prefer more Fie. 113. showy vessels, like the Muth one pound and two pound jars (Fig 113), even though they cost more. At present the neat tin pails (Fig. 114) holding from one-half pound to twelve pounds, are very popular in the markets. The covers shut Fie. 114. a inside, and if the honey is granulated they are very excellent. The bails make them more convenient and salable. Mr. Jones has a pail that is easily sealed with wax strings, and is beautifully decorated with chromoed labels, Such pails are 242 Honey Receptacles. cheap, convenient, and leave little to be desired. Their beau- ty aids the sale. Mr, A. I. Root pronounces them the best receptacle for extracted honey. _. If the honey is to be sent to a distant market it should be in soft wood—spruce, pine, or hemlock—kegs (Fig. 115). Fig. 115. us Bt bors ‘i ‘ai 5 \ Sf -——4 These are lighter than barrels, and by thorough soaking in water before use they need no waxing. Hard wood barrels must be waxed, then if the honey granulates the hoops must be loosened to take out the head. This cracks the wax and a leak results. Third. Explain to the grocer that if kept above the tem- perature of 70° or 80° F., it will not granulate, that granula- tion is a pledge of purity and superiority, and show him how easy it is to reduce the crystals, and ask him to explain this to his customers. If necessary, liquify some of the granulated honey in his presence. Put on the labels directions for reli- quifying candied honey. Honey, like many other substances, will not granulate if heated to 200° F., and then sealed while hot. This does no injury to the honey, but it is trouble, and makes the honey less convenient to ship, though at times it may pay till we educate our patrons in reference to the excel- lence of granulated honey. Lastly. If you do not deliver the honey yourself, be sure that the vessels will not leak in transit. It is best, in case jelly cups are used, that they be filled at the grocery. And do not forget the large label, which gives the kind of honey, grade, and producer's name. . If the honey is extracted before it is fully ripened—before the bees cap it—it should always be kept in an open can or barrel, covered with cloth, and in a warm room. Thus ar- ranged it will thicken as well as in the hive. No honey should ever be kept in a cool, damp room. The admirable work of Mr. C. F. Muth in Cincinnati, ed- To Market Comb-Honey. 243 ucating people in reference to extracted honey, fighting all adulteration, pushing it into the candy, tobacco, and confection- ery establishments, deserves our hearty gratitude. Mr. Muth’s market has become stupendous, and graphically shows what this trade is to be in the near future, when all our cities have a Muth to work for us. I would also recommend to all the very valuable little pamphlet of Mr. Chas. Dadant, on the production and sale of extracted honey. It is most interest- ing reading to the honey producer, and shows what energy and thought may accomplish in this direction. COMB-HONEY. This, from its wondrous beauty, especially when light- colored and immaculate, will always be a coveted article for the table, and will ever, with proper care, bring the highest price paid for honey. So it will always be best to work for this, even though we may not be able to procure it in such ample profusion as we may the extracted. He who has all kinds will be able to satisfy every demand, and will most surely meet with success. RULES TO BE OBSERVED. This, too, should be chiefly in small sections (Fig. 55), for, as before stated, such are the packages that surely sell. Sec- tions from three to six inches square will just fill a plate nicely, and look very tempting to the proud housewife, espe- cially if some epicurean friends are to be entertained. The sections should surely be in place at the dawn of the white clover season, so that the apiarist may secure the most of this irresistible nectar, chaste as if capped by the very snow itself. They should be taken away as soon as capped, as delay makes them highways of travel for the bees, which always mars their beauty. When removed, if demanded, glass the sections, but before this we should place them in hives one upon another, or special boxes made tight, with a close cover, in which to store either brood-frames in winter or sections at any season, and fume them with burning sulphur. This is quickly and easily done by use of the smoker. Get the fire in the smoker well to burning, add the sulphur, then place this in the top hive, or top of the special box, The sulphurous fumes will descend 244 Shipping Crates. and deal out death to all moth larve. This should always be done before shipping the honey, if we regard our reputations as precious. It is well to do this immediately upon removal, and also two weeks after, so as to destroy the moth larve not hatched when the sections are removed. If separators have been used, these sections are in good con- dition to be glassed, and are also in nice shape to ship even a glass, as they may stand side by side and not mar the comb. The shipping crate (Fig. 116) should be strong, neat and cheap, with handles as seen in Fig. 116—such handles are also Fie. 116. convenient in the ends of the hives, and can be cut in an in- stant by having the circular-saw set to wabble. With handles the crate is more convenient, and is more sure to be set on its bottom. The crate should also be glassed, as the site of the comb will say: ‘‘ Handle with care.” Mr. Heddon makes a larger crate (Fig. 117), which is neat and cheap. Muth’s crate is like Heddon’s, only smaller. It may be well to wrap the sections in paper, as thus break- age of one will not mean general ruin. In shipping in freight cars, it is desirable that the sections be set lengthwise of the cars, as the danger from the shocks of starting and stopping will be much less. In groceries, where the apiarist keeps honey for sale, it will pay him to furnish his own boxes. These should be made of white wood, very neat and glassed in front to show the honey, and the cover so fixed that unglassed sections—and these, probably, will soon become the most popular—cannot be punched or fingered. Be sure, too, that the label, with kind of honey, grade and name of apiarist, be so plain that ‘che who runs may read.” Selling Queens. 245 Comb-honey that is to be kept in the cool weather of autumn, or the cold of winter, must be kept in warm rooms, or the comb will break from the sections when handled. By f — | i keeping it quite warm for some days previous to shipment, it may be sent to market even in winter, but must be handled very carefully, and must make a quick transit. Above all, let “taste and neatness” ever by your motto. MARKETING BEES. ‘ Before leaving this subject, let me say a word about selling ees. SELLING QUEENS. As queen rearing and shipping have already been suffi- ciently described, it oniy remains to be said that the vender of queens cannot be too prompt or fair or cautious. Success no less than morality demands the most perfect honesty. If, for any reason, queens cannot be sent promptly, the money should at once be returned, explanation made, and, if reason- able, delay may be requested. The breeder who by careful selection, and care in following the rules of breeding, shall secure a type of bees pronounced in excellence, has won in the race. I have described shipping bees. The rules just given should guide here also. . 246 Vinegar from Honey. SELLING BEES BY THE POUND. This is now quite a business. The bees are put, by use of : olarge tin tunnel, into a cage (Fig. 118) made of sections as AU UUNTHINUNLAL AHL shown in the figure. The handle makes it easy to carry them, and they get careful handling without any special request. VINEGAR FROM HONEY. Mr. T. F. Bingham utilizes the cappings secured while ex- tracting, to produce wax and a most excellent quality of vin- egar. ‘The honey is drained from the cappings, which are then covered for an hour or two with water. The cappings from 1,000 pounds of honey will sweeten enough water for 45 gal- lons of vinegar. The water is now drained into an open bar- rel, which should be kept covered withcloth. Thescumshould ‘be removed as it rises. In about a year the change to first- class vinegar will have been accomplished. After the water is drained from the cappings they can be converted into pure wax, as already described. FAIRS AND THE MARKET. Our English friends have demonstrated that Jarge honey ex- hibitions_are_a most powerful aid in developing the honey market. . ee Till within’ tivo~ years our American honey exhibits have been a disgrace and a hindrance, and they are largely so to- day. A little second-rate honey sandwiched in with sugar Fairs. 247 and syrups, and supplemented by a cake or two of black dirty wax, describes the honey exhibit at most of our fairs to-day. The premiums range from twenty-five cents to fifty cents. WHAT SHOULD WE HAVE? Our industry demands a separate building, filled with tons, not pounds, of honey, and exhibiting every thing that is valu- able in modern apiculture. In one corner of the building there should be a room (Fig. 119) partitioned off with mosquito Fie. 119 nm aT cy ae i a Limi netting, or wire cloth, where the bees should be exhibited, and where daily manipulation at a certain time should take place. Openings through the wall of the building (Fig. 120 B. C. ete.) should permit the bees to fly entirely outside the building, or if the building is at the margin of the grounds entirely outside the limits of the fair. It should be arranged with the managers that sales of honey and all apparatus be My LS 248 Fairs. made at any time at this building, on conditions that the ex- hibit should be in nowise interfered with. The premiums Fic. 120. should range from one dollar to twenty, and the total should reach to the hundreds. We find here in Michigan that all that is necessary to effect this grand and invaluable transformation is a little life and energy on the part of the bee-keepers. EFFECTS OF SUCH EXHIBITS. They would show that apiculture is no second rate business. They would attract attention and educate as nothing else would. They would go hand in hand with local conventions in instructing bee-keepers so that no inferior honey would go onto the markets. They would enable bee-keepers to see and buy just what they need in the more intelligent prosecution of their business. They would scatter the little pint, half-pint, and gill pails of honey into thousands of homes, and develop a knowledge and taste that would stimulate the honey market most powerfully. Tons of honey have been sold at the Toronto Fairs, the influence of which has been a lasting surprise even to the most enterprising producers. I believe that the great quartet that is to advance apiculture is fairs, associations, planting for honey, and improved bees. Tulip Tree Louse. 249 CHAPTER XVII. HONEY PLANTS. As bees are dependent mainly upon flowers for honey, it of course follows that the apiarist’s success will depend largely upon the abundance of honey-secreting plants in the vicinity of his apiary. True it is that certain bark and plant lice secrete a kind of liquid sweet—honey of doubtful reputation— which, in the dearth of anything better, the bees seem glad to appropriate. I have thus seen the bees thick about a large bark-louse which attacks the tulip tree, and thus often destroys one of our best honey trees. T have described this insect (Fig. 121) under the name of Lecanium Tulipifera. In 1870 it did no small injury to our Fig, 121. Tulip-Tree Bark Louse. 1—Scale on Twig. 2—Under side of Scale. 3, 4—Young Lice. é—Antenna,. 5—Leg. 250 Larch Louse. tulip trees here at the college. It has seriously injured this tree in the states bordering the Ohio river. The tulip is often called poplar, which is quite incorrect. The poplar belongs to the willow family, the tulip to the magnolia. This louse is of double interest to bee-keepers. It ruins one of our best honey trees, and supplies a poor substitute for plant nectar to the bees. All bark lice, which include the orange tree scale lice of the south, are best destroyed by use of whale-oil soap— strong solution—or kerosene oil. This latter is best applied in the form of an emulsion, with soap solution or milk. Whit- man’s Fountain Pump is admirable for making such applica- tions. T have also seen the bees thick about several species of plant lice. One, the Erisoma imbricator, Fitch, works on the beech tree. Its abdomen is thickly covered with long wool, and it makes a comical show as it wags this up and down upon the least disturbance. The leaves of trees attacked by this louse, as also those beneath the trees, are fairly gummed with a sweetish substance. I have found that the bees avoid this substance, except at times of extreme drouth and long pro- tracted absence of honeyed bloom. Another species, Thalaxes ulmicola, gives rise to certain soli- tary galls, which appear on the upper surface of the leaves of the red elm. These galls are hollow, with a thin skin, and within the hollows are the lice, which secrete an abundant sweet that often attracts the bees to a feast of fat things, as the gall is torn apart, or cracks open, so that the sweet exudes. This sweet is anything but disagreeable, and may not be un- wholesome to the bees. The larch louse, Lachnus laricis, se- cretes a liquid that is greedily taken by the bees. Another of the aphides, of a black hue, works on the branches of our willows, which they often entirely cover, and thus greatly damage another tree valuable for both honey and pollen. Were it not that they seldom are so numerous two years in succession, they would certainly banish from among us one of our most ornamental and valuable honey-producing trees. These are fairly thronged in September and October, and not unfrequently in spring and summer if the lice are abundant, by bees, wasps, ants, and various two-winged flies, all eager to lap up the oozing sweets. This louse is the Lach- nus dentatus, of Le Baron, and the Aphis salicti of Harris. Sycamore Louse. 251 The past summer I have received from apiarists of Indiana. and Ohio, a very large, dark gray, plant louse which worked on the sycamore, and is reported from both states as keeping the bees actively employed for some weeks. This louse is one- fourth of an inch long. The winged lice measure three- eights of an inch to the tips of their wings. The veins of the wings, as also the short nectaries—the tubes at the posterior part of the abdomen—show that this louse (Fig. 122) belongs to the Genus Lachnus. The lice of the Genus Aphis—of which there are innumerable species—have Fie, 122, @; \\ Uh Is Female. Male. longer nectaries (Fig. 123), from which ooze large drops of nectar. This is much relished by the ants, which often care for these lice as tenderly as for their own young. 252 Honey Dew. Doubtless many have supposed that the bees were gathering a real honey dew, when closer inspection would have shown that some species of plant lice was wholly responsible. I think that very often this nectar from plant lice is entirely whole- some and unobjectionable. REAL HONEY DEW. Bees also get, in some regions, a sort of honey-dew, which enables them to add to their stores with surprising rapidity. Fic. 124. Cow Pea. a, a—Glands. o—Flower. c—Pods. I remember one morning while riding on horseback along the Sacramento river, in California, I broke off a willow twig Bees and Grapes. 253 beside the road when, to my surprise, I found it was fairly decked with drops of honey. Upon further examination I found the willow foliage was abundantly sprinkled by these delicious drops. These shrubs were undisturbed by insects, nor were they under trees. Here then was a real case of honey- dew, which must have been distilled through the night by the leaves. J never saw any such phenomenon in Michigan, yet others have. Dr. A. H. Atkins, an accurate and conscientious observer, has noted this honey-dew more than once here in Central Michigan. Many bee-keepers have noticed the same thing. Many plants, like the Cotton and Cow Pea (Fig. 124) of the South, have extra floral glands which secrete nectar. In case of the Cow Pea these glands are on the peduncles or flow- er stems, just at the base of the flowers (Fig. 124, a, a). Prof. Trelese thinks that this nectar serves the plant by at- tracting bees, wasps, etc., which keep injurious insects from attacking it. BWEET SAP AND JUICES. Bees often gather much nectar from the stubble of wheat that is cut early, while the straw is yet green. The sap from the maple and other trees and plants also furnishes them sweets. They gather juices of questionable repute from about cider mills, some from grapes and other fruit which have been crushed or eaten and torn by wasps and other insects. That bees ever tear the grapes is a question of which I have failed to receive any personal proof, though for years I have been carefully seeking it. I have lived among the vineyards of California, and have often watched bees about vines in Mich- igan, but never saw bees tear open the grapes. I have laid crushed grapes in the apiary, when the bees were not gather- ing, and were ravenous for stores, which, when covered with sipping bees, were replaced with sound grape-clusters, which in no instance were mutilated. I have even shut bees in emp- ty hives on warm ‘days and closed the entrance with grape clusters, which even then were not cut. I have thus been led to doubt if bees ever attack sound grapes, though quick to improve the opportunities which the oriole’s beak and the stronger jaws of wasps offer them. My-friend Prof. Prentiss suggests that when the weather is very warm and damp, and 254 Valuable Honey Plants. the grapes very ripe, the juice may ooze through small open- ings of the grapes and so attract the bees. It is at just such times that attacks are observed. Still, Dr. C. V. Riley feels sure that bees are sometimes thus guilty, and Mr. Bidwell tells me he has seen bees rend sound grapes, which they did with their feet. Yet, if this is the case, it is certainly of rare occur- rence, and is more than compensated by the great aid which the bees afford the fruit-grower in the great work of cross-fer- tilization, which is imperatively necessary to his success, as has been so well shown by Dr. Asa Gray and Mr. Chas. Dar- win. It is true that cross-fertilization of the flowers, which can only be accomplished by insects, and early in the season by the honey-bee, is often, if not always, necessary to a full yield of fruit and vegetables. In diecious plants, like the willows and most nut-bearing trees, the stamens that bear the pollen or male element, are on one plant, and the pistils that grow the ovules—the female element—on another. Here, then, insects must act as ‘‘ marriage priests” that fructification may be accomplished at all. In other plants where the organs are all in the same flower, fertilization is wholly dependent on insects. In cases like the red clover, where fertilization is possible without aid, my colleague, Prof. Beal, has shown that unless insects are present, the yield of seed is meager in- deed. The seeds in the uncovered blossoms were to those in the covered as 236:5. There is then entire reciprocity between the bees and flowers. The bees are as necessary to the plants as are the plants to the bees. I am informed by Prof. W. W. Tracy, that the gardeners in the vicinity of Boston keep bees that they may perform this duty. Even then, if Mr. Bidwell and Prof. Riley are right, and the bee does, rarely— for surely this is very rare, if ever—destroy grapes, still they are, beyond any possible question, invaluable aids to the pomol- ogist. That bees ever injure blossoms and thus effect damage to the fruitage of such plants as buckwheat—or to any plants, as is sometimes claimed—is utterly absurd and without foun- dation. But the principal source of honey is still from the flowers. WHAT ARE THE VALUABLE HONEY PLANTS? In the northeastern part of our country the chief reliance, for May, is the fruit-blossoms, willows, and sugar maples. In Valuable Honey Plants. 255 June, white clover, Alsike clover, and raspberries yield large- ly of the most attractive honey, both as to appearance and flavor. In July, the incomparable basswood makes both bees and apiarist jubilant. In August, buckwheat offers a tribute, which we welcome, though it be dark and pungent in flavor, while with us in Michigan, August and September give us a profusion of bloom which yields to no other in the richness of its capacity to secrete honey, and is not cut off till the au- tumn frosts—usually about September 15. Thousands of acres of golden rod, boneset, asters, and other autumn flowers of our new northern counties, as yet have blushed unseen, with fragrance wasted. This unocen- pied territory, unsurpassed in its capability for fruit produc- tion, covered with grand forests of maple and basswood, and spread with the richest of autumn bloom, offers opportunities to the practical apiarist rarely equaled except in Texas and the Pacific States. In these localities one or two hundred pounds a season to the colony and its increase, is no surprise to the apiarist, while even four or five hundred are\not isolated cases. In the following table will be found a list of valuable honey plants. Those in the first column are annual, biennial, or perennial; the annual being enclosed in a parenthesis thus: (); the biennial enclosed in brackets thus: []; while those in the second column are shrubs or trees; the names of shrubs being enclosed in a parenthesis. The date of the commencement of bloom is, of course, not invariable. The one appended, in case of plants which grow in our State, is about average for Central Michigan. Those plants whose names appear in small capitals yield very superior honey. Those with (a) are use- ful for other purposes than honey secretion. All but those with a * are native or very common in Michigan. Those writ- ten in the plural refer to more than one species. Those fol- lowed by a + are very numerous in species. Of course I have not named all, as that would include some hundreds which have been observed at the college, taking nearly all of the two great orders, Composite and Rosacee. I have only aimed to give the most important, omitting many foreign plants of notoriety, as I have had no personal knowledge of them. 256 Honey Plants. Date. Annuals or Perennials. ADI] soascsssosssenses April and May. April and May. April and May. May .... May and June.. May and June.. May and June.. May and June.. May to August. May to Fall... June....... June to August. June to frost.. June to frost.. June to frost.. June to frost.. June to frost.. June to frost.. June to frost.. JULY oo eseeee és DULY ssvtevressscees July to August. July to August. July to August. July to August. July to August. July to August. July to August. July to August. July to frost... July to frost July to frost. July to frost. July to frost... July to frost... July to frost. July to frost. August... August....... August...... August......... F August to September... August to September... August to frost. August to frost. August to frost.. August to frost. August to frost.. August to frost. August to frost.. August to frost.. me Borage). . {Colion} a .| Skunk Cabbage. Dandelion. Strawberry. (a) .|/“BALL, BLACK OR BLUE SAGE—California. ../* WHITE SAGE—California. (Seven-Top Turni - PElorehoumd cubital: ..PSumac—California, ...*Coffee Berry—California. ..,.*HOoRSE Mint—South. ..| False Indigo. ..| Lupine. ..| Ground Ivy or Sill. (Cow Pea.) (a)—South. tone Crop, South. Mammoth Red Clover. (a) “California Figwort—California. (Hemp). (a) .| WHITE CLOVER. (a) ALSIKE CLOVER. (a) [SWEET CLOVER.] Horehound. Ox-eyed Daisy—Bad Weed. Bush Honeysuckle. nears Pe atrimony Vine. .. "Sage. Mother-wort. (a ilk or Milk Weeds. a) Mt. Mint. “| Catnip. (a) Asparagras, (@ - (Rocky een Bee_ Plant). “Vipers Rugloss (Blue Thistle). Blue Vervain or Verbena. White Vervain or Verbena. . | Marsh Milk-Weed. ..| Boneset. .| Bergamot. ..| Figwort. .| Giant Hyssop. Malva, .| Iron Weed. ..| Culver’s Root. «| Indian Plantains. .|(Buckwheat). (a) ..|(Snap-dragon). (Touch Me Not or Swamp Balsam). Great Willow Herb Fire Weed). Golden Honey Plant. Large Smart Weed. “(SPIDER FLOWER). «(GOLDEN Rop). + .| ASTERS. t .| Marsh Sunflower. + .| Tick-Seed. + Beggar-Ticks. ¢ : Spanish Needles. f .| Rattlesnake Root or Tall White Lettuce. Bee Shrubs and Trees. 257 Date. Shrubs or Trees. January to May............*>Manzanita—Celifornia, January to May..... (Willow) t—California, February to June (Gall Berry)—South. Marca ...... “Orange, South. April ..| Box Elder or Ash-Leaf Maple, p .| Red or Soft Maple. (a) ‘Abril and May. April and May.. Ye May. ‘and June . May and June. May and June. May and June. May and June. a, and June. yt July to Septem August peed to September.. August to frost August to December .. August to January 2 Poplar or Aspen. Silver Maple. Judas Tree—South. sete Vine—South). { hinese Wistaria vem, Japan Privet)—South. Varuish Tree—South. Acacia—Soutb. Biack Gum—South. (Bladder Nut). Persimmon (a)—South. Saw PALMETTO—South, Buckeye. (Barberry).' ‘Grape- Vine). (a). | Buck Thorn—South. .|| BLACK MANGROVE—Florida. Magnolias—South. Honey Locust. | Wild Plum. (Black Raspberry). Hs Locusts. (RED RASPBERRY). ( (Blackberry). *Sourwood—South. (Button Bush). BASSWOOD. (a) (Virginia Creeper). (a) “CABBAGE PALMETTO—South. ‘Blue Gum—California. Catalpa. (a) *Pepper-tree—California. ae? ohn’s Worts). ate Sumac). Indian Currant or Coral Berry. *Red Gum—California, Japan Plum—South. :|(Germander or Wood Sage). 17 258 Bee Pasturage. i DESCRIPTION, WITH PRACTICAL REMARKS. As this subject of bee pasturage is of such prime impor- tance, and as the interest in the subject is so great and wide spread, I feel that details with illustrations will be more than warranted. We have abundant experience to show that forty or fifty Fia, 125. Sugar Maple. colonies of bees, take the seasons as they average, are all that a single place will sustain to the greatest advantage. Then how significant the fact, that when the season is the best, full three March and April Plants. 259 times that number of colonies will find ample resources to keep all employed. So this subject of artificial pasturage be- comes one well worthy close study and observation. The subject, too, is a very important one in reference to the loca- tion of the apiary. It is well to remember in this connection, that while bees do sometimes go from five to seven miles for nectar, two or three miles should be regarded as the limit of profitable gathering. That is, apiaries of from fifty to one hundred or more colonies, should not be nearer than four or five miles of each other. MARCH PLANTS. In Florida the orange gives early bloom, and the thousands of trees in that land, not only of flowers but of honey, will have no small influence in building up the colonies for the grand harvest of mangrove and palmetto soon to follow. The gall-berry of the South commences to bloom even in February, and yields abundant nectar. In Florida this shrub gives the main supply of honey during the swarming season. APRIL PLANTS. As we have already seen, the apiarist does not secure the best results, even in the early spring, unless the bees are en- couraged by the increase of their stores of pollen and honey; hence, in case we do not practice stimulative feeding—and many will not—it becomes very desirable to have some early bloom. Happily, in all sections of the United States our desires are not in vain. Early in spring there are many scattering wild flowers, as skunk cabhage, Symplocarpus fotidus, which supplies abun- dant pollen and some honey; the blood-root, Sanguinaria Can- adensis, liver-leaf, Hepatica acutiloba, and various others of the crow-foot family, as also many species of cress, which be- long to the mustard family, and the gay dandeloin, Taraza- cum dens-leonis, which keeps on blooming for weeks, etc., all of which are valuable and important. The maples (Fig. 125), which are all valuable honey plants, also contribute to the early stores. Especially valuable are the silver maples, Acer dasycarpum, the red or soft maples, Acer rubrum, and the box elder or ash-leaf maple, Negundo aceroides, as they bloom so very early, long before the leaves 260 April Plants. appear. The bees work on these, here in Michigan, the first week of April, and often in March. They are also magnifi- cent shade trees, especially those that have the weeping habit. Their early bloom is very pleasing, their summer form and fo- Fig. 126. Fig. 127, Judas Tree. Willow. liage beautiful, while their flaming tints in autumn are inde- scribable. The foreign maples, sycamore, Acer pseudo-plata- nus, and Norway, Acer platanoides, are also very beautiful. Whether superior to ours as honey plants, I am unable to say. The willows, too, (Fig. 126) rival the maples in the early period of bloom. Some are very early, blossoming in March, while others, like the white willow, Salix alba (Fig. 126), bloom in May. The flowers on one tree or bush of the willow are all pistillate, that is, have pistils but no stamens, while on others they are all staminate, having no pistils. On the former, bees can gather only honey, on the latter only pollen. That the willow furmishes both honey and pollen is attested by the fact that I saw both kinds of trees, the pistillate and the staminate, thronged with bees the past season. The wil- low, too, from its elegant form and silvery foliage, is one of our finest shade trees. It grows everywhere in the United States. May Plants. 261 In the-south of Michigan, and thence southward to Ken- tucky, and even beyond, the Judas tree, or red-bud, Cercis Canadensis (Fig. 127), is not only worthy of cultivation as a honey plant, but is also very attractive, and well deserving of attention for its ornamental qualities alone. This blooms from March to May, according to the latitude. The poplars—not the tulip—also bloom in April, and are freely visited by the bees. The wood is immaculate, and is used for toothpicks. Why not use it for sections? In California, the unique and exquisite Manzanitas (species of sree cea) together with the willows and many other flowering plants, keep the bees busy from January till May. MAY PLANTS. In May we have the grand sugar maple, Acer saccharinum (Fig. 125), incomparable for beauty, also all our various fruit trees, peach, cherry, plum, apple, etc.; in fact all the Rosacez Fic. 128. American Wistaria. family. Our beautiful American Wistaria, Wistaria frutes- cens (Fig. 128), the very ornamental climber, or the still more lovely Chinese Wistaria, Wistaria sinensis (Fig. 129), which has longer racemes than the native, and often blossoms twice in the season. These are the woody twiners for the apiarist. 262 May Plants. The barberry, too, Berberis vulgaris (Fig. 130), comes after fruit blossoms, and is thronged with bees in search of nectar Fig. 129, Fie. 130. Chinese Wistaria, in spring, as with children in winter, in quest of the beautiful scarlet berries, so pleasingly tart. In California, the sumac, the horehound, the famous black sage (Fig. 131), Audibertia Palmeri, or more correctly Trechostema lanatum, (there are two other species less common, ) with its most beautiful and delicious honey, and the more common, and hardly less excellent white sage, Audibertia polystachia, (Fig. 1382), keep the bees roaring with activity, in favorable seasons, from Avril even unto June. May Plants. 263 Fig. 131, Ball or Black Sage. 264 May Plants. Fie. 132. White Sage. May Plants. 265 In the South, as I learn from that able apiarist, Dr. J. H. P. Brown, they are no less favored. The Japan Privet, the varnish tree, the acacia, the black gum and the persimmon, stir the bees up to their best endeavor in May. ‘The banana blooms not only in May, but, as Mr. W. 8. Hart, of Florida, writes me, it is in blossom the year around. So rich are the flower tubes in nectar that Mr. Hart says he could soon gather a tea-cupful by hand of clear beautiful nectar of good flavor. Fic. 133. Horse Mint. The horse-mint (Fig. 133), Monarda aristata, is sending the bees loaded to their hives with its peculiar aromatic nectar. This with the buckthorn yields honey into June. 266 June Plants. The Saw Palmetto, Sable serulata, forms a dense growth and makes clearing the land no small expense in Florida. The slim trunk creeps along the ground for twenty feet and sends roots beneath for nourishment. The leaves arise from this stem, and are from four to six feet long. The clusters of small yellowish-white blossoms are immense in size. The blossoms last from the middle of April till June. The honey is yellow, thick and fine. The fruit of this palm is about twice the size of the Concord grape, and from October till Christmas the oozing nectar keeps the bees at work. This is dark honey, but very good for stimulative feeding. JUNE PLANTS. With June comes the incomparable white or Dutch clover, Trifolium repens (Fig. 134), whose chaste and modest bloom betokens the beautiful, luscious, and unrivaled sweets which Fic. 134. White or Dutch Clover. are hidden in its corolla tube. Also its sister, Alsike or Swed- ish, Trifolium hybrida (Fig. 135), which seems to resemble both the white and red clover. It is a stronger grower than the white, and has a whitish blossom tinged with pink. This forms excellent pasture and hay for cattle, sheep, etc., and may well be sown by the apiarist. It will often pay apiarists to furnish neighboring farmers with seed as an inducement to grow this excellent honey plant. Like white clover, it June Plants. 267 blooms all through June into July. Both of these should be sown early in spring with timothy, five or six pounds of seed to the acre, in the same manner that red clover seed is sown. By cutting Alsike clover just as it commences to bloom it may be made to come into blossom the second time, so as just to fill the vacant space in August. This is a very im- portant fact, and may well be acted upon. Sweet clover, yellow, and white, Melilotus officinalis (Fig. 136) and Melilotus alba, are well named. They bloom from the middle of June to the first of October. Their perfume scents the air for long distances, and the hum of bees that throng their flowers is like music to the apiarist’s ear. The honey, too, is just exquisite. These clovers are biennial, not blooming the first season, and dying after they bloom the sec- ond season. They perpetuate themselves, however, through the seed so as to really become perennial. A disagreeable fact is that they have little value except for honey. It is as- serted by some that they give fair pasturage for stock and are excellent for soiling and green manuring. They are said to become pernicious weeds if allowed to spread. ‘The Bokhara clover is only a variety of the above, though Mr. D. A. Jones thinks it quite superior to the others. The other clovers—lucerne, yellow trefoil, scarlet trefoil, and alfalfa—have not proved of any value with us, perhaps owing to locality. June Plants. 268 Fie. 135. June Plants. 269 Fia. 136, Melilot Clover. Borage, Borago officinalis (Fig. 137), an excellent bee plant, blooms from June till frost, and is visited by bees even Fic. 137. Tone: Fic. 138 % in very rainy weather. It seems not to be a favorite, but is eagerly visited when all others fail to yield nectar, 270 June Plants. Mignonette, Reseda odorata (Fig. 188), blooms from the middle of June till frost, is unparalleled for its sweet odor, furnishes nectar in profusion, and is well worthy cultivation. It does not secrete well in wet weather, but in favorable weather it is hardly equalled. Fig. 189. Fie. 140. June Plants. 271 in June. It is as much sought after by the bees in quest of honey, as by the cook in search of a savory vegetable, or one to give tone to soup. Sage, Salvia officinalis, horehound, Marrubium vulgare, motherwort, Leonurus cardiaca, and catnip, Nepeta cataria, which latter does not commence to bloom till July, all furnish nice white honey, remain in bloom a long time,.and are very Fig. 141, Motherwort. desirable, as they are in bloom in the honey dearth of July and August. They, like many others of the mint family (Fig. 140), are thronged with bees during the season of bloom. The first and last are of commercial importance, while very ~ 272 June Plants. few of our native plants afford so much nectar, are such favor- ites with the bees, and are so independent of weather as moth- erwort (Fig. 141). It is crowded with bees from the dawn of its bloom till the last flower withers. By cutting it back in May it can be made to blossom just at the dearth of nectar- secreting bloom; otherwise it comes in June and early July, just when Linden is yielding its precious harvest. Few plants are more desirable to sow in waste places. The silk or milk-weed furnishes abundant nectar from June to frost, as there are several species of the genus Asclepias, which is wide-spread ‘in our country. This is the plant which has large pollen masses which often adhere to the legs of bees (Fig. 142), and sometimes so entrap them as to cause their death. Prof. Riley once very graciously advised planting them to kill bees. I say graciously, as I have watched these very closely, and am sure they do little harm, and are rich in nectar. Seldom a bee gets caught so as to hold it long, and ¥ia. 143. Fig, 142. Pollen of Milk- Weed. Black Mustard. when these awkward masses are carried away with the bee, they are usually left at the door of the hive, where I have often seen them in considerable numbers. The river bank June Plants. : 278 hard by our apiary is lined with these sweet-smelling herbs, and we would like even more. Black mustard, Sinapis nigra (Fig. 148), white mustard, Sinapis alba, and rape, Brassica campestris (Fig. 144), all look much alike, and are all admirable bee plants, as they furnish much and beautiful honey. The first, if self-sown, blooms with us July Ist, the others June Ist; the first about eight weeks after sowing, the others about four. The mustards bloom for four weeks, rape for three. These are all specially commendable, as they may be made to bloom during the honey dearth of July and August, and are valuable plants to raise for seed. Rape seems to be very attractive to insects, as the flea beetles and the blister beetles are often quite too much for it, though they do not usually destroy the plants till after they have blossomed. I have several times purchased what purported Fie. 144, Rape. to be Chinese mustard, dwarf and tall, but Prof. Beal, than whom there is no better authority, tells me they are only the white and black, and certainly they are no whit better as bee plants. These plants, with buckwheat, the mints, borage, and mignonette, are specially interesting, as they cover, or may be made to cover, the honey dearth from about July 20th to August 20th. 18 274 June Plants. The mustards and rape may be planted in drills about eight inches apart, any time from May ist to July 15th. Four quarts will sow an acre. In this month blooms the tulip tree, Liriodendron tulipifera (Fig. 145)—often called poplar in the South, which is not only an excellent honey producer, but is one of our most stately and admirable shade-trees. Now bloom the sumacs, Fic .145 Tulip. though one species blooms in May, the wild plum, the rasp- berries, whose nectar is unsurpassed in color and flavor, and June Plants. 275 the blackberry. Corn yields largely of honey as well as pol- len, and the teasel, Dipsacus fullonwm (Fig. 146), is said, not only by Mr. Doolittle, but by English and German apiarists, to yield richly of beautiful honey. This last has commercial importance. The blackberry opens its petals in June, and also the fragrant locust, which, from its rapid growth, beautiful form and handsome foliage, would rank among our first shade trees, were it not that it is so tardy in spreading its canopy of green, and so liable to ruinous attack by the borers, which Fie. 146. Teasel. last peculiarity it shares with the incomparable maples, Washing the trunks of the trees in June and July with soft soap will in great part remove this trouble. In June the Mammoth Red Clover, Trifolium pratense, comes out in one mass of crimson. This, unlike common red clover, has flower tubes short enough for even the ligula of the black bee. It is pretty coarse for hay but excellent for pasture and for green manuring. The Partridge pea, Cassia chamecrista (Fig. 147), furnishes abundant nectar, and like the Cow pea of the South has extra floral as well as floral glands. Lupine, Lupinus perennis, and gill or ground ivy, Nepeta glechoma, commenced to blossom in May and now are fully out. This last is a mint, a near relative of catnip. The Matrimony Vine, Lycium vulgare, and the beautiful honey locust, Gliditschia 276 June Plants. triacanthos (Fig. 148), are now full of life, as the bees come and go full-loaded with nectar. In California, the fig-wort, Fig. 147. A Na) by) B a ay p A Partridge Pea. Scrophularia Californica, contributes to the honey supply. Our brothers of the South reap a rich harvest from the great staple, cotton, Gossypium herbaceum (Fig. 149), which com- mences to bloom early in June, and remains in blossom even to October. This belongs to the same family—Mallow—as the hollyhock, and like it blooms and fruits through the sea- son. The Cow pea (Fig. 124) is not only good for bees, but for feed, and to enrich the soil. The Stone Crop, Sedum pulchel- lum, is another valuable honey plant of the South. In June the Magnolias (Fig, 150)—there are several species in the South—are in bloom. In many parts they commence to blos- June Plants. 277 som in May. One of the finest of these is the Magnolia glau- ea (Fig. 150). One would suspect at once that it was anear relative of the Tulip tree. Fie, 148, Honey Locust, Cotton, 278 July Plants. JULY PLANTS. Early in this month opens the far-famed basswood or linden, Tilia Americana (Fig. 151), which for the profusion and Fig. 150. Magnolia. quality of its honey has no superior. Mr. Doolittle got 66 pounds of honey from this source by a single colony in three days. There is rarely a year that it does not give us some of July Plants. 279 its incomparable nectar. ‘The tree, too, from its great spread- ing top and fine foliage, is magnificent for shade. Five of Fig. 151. Basswood. these trees are within two rods of my study window, and their grateful fragrance and beautiful form and shade have often been the subject of remark by visitors. 280 July Plants. Figwort, Scrophularia nodosa (Fig. 152), often called Rattle- Weed, as the seeds will rattle in the pod, and Carpenter’s Square, as it has a square stalk, is an insignificant looking weed, with Fic. 152. inconspicuous flowers, that afford abundant nectar from the middle of July till frost. I have received almost as many for identification as I have of the asters and golden-rods. Prof. Beal remarked to me a year or two since, that it hardly seemed duly Plants. 28] Rocky Mountain Bee-Plant, July Plants. 282 Fic. 154. Boneset. July Plants. 283 possible that it could be so valuable. We cannot always rightly estimate by appearances alone. It is a very valuable plant to be scattered in waste places. That beautiful and valuable honey plant, from Minnesota, Colorado and the Rocky Mountains, cleome, or the Rocky Mountain bee-plant, Cleome integrifolia (Fig. 153), if self- sown, or sown early in the spring, blooms by the middle of July and lasts for long weeks. Nor can anything be more gay than these brilliant flowers, alive with bees all through the Fic. 155 Button Ball. long fall. This should be planted in fall in drills two feet apart, the plants six inches apart in the drills. It will not grow if planted in the spring. The seeds, which grow in pods, are very numerous, and are said to be valuable for chickens. It does best on light soil. Now commence to bloom the numer- ous Eupatoriums, or bonesets, or thoroughworts (Fig. 154), which fill the marshes of our country, and the hives as well, with their rich golden nectar. These are precursors of that 284: July Plants. profusion of this composite order, whose many species are even now budding in preparation for the sea of flowers which will deck the marsh-lands of August and September. Wild bergamot, also, Monarda fistulosa, which like the thistles is of importance to the apiarist, blooms in July. As before re- Sour Wood. marked this-is one of the plants whose long flower tubes are ierced by the Bombus, and Xylocopa bees. Then the honey- tise help to gather the abundant nectar. This is a near relative of the Southern horse-mint which, as will be seen, it closely re- sembles. The golden honey plant, Actinomeris squarrosa, so praised by Dr. Tinker, and rattle-snake root, Nabalus altissi- July Plants. 285 mus, which swarms with bees all the day long, are also com- posite plants. - The little shrub of our marshes, appropriately named but- ton-bush, Cephalanthus occidentalis (Fig. 155), also shares the attention of the bees with the linden; while apiarists of the South find sour-wood, or sorrel tree, Oxydendrum arboreum (Fig. 156), a valuable honey tree. This belongs to the Heath family, which includes the far-famed heather bloom of Eng- land. It also includes our whortleberry, cranberry, blueberry, and one plant which has no enviable reputation, as furnishing honey which is very poisonous, even fatal to those who eat, the mountain laurel, Kalmia latifolia. Yet, a near relative which grows at the South, Andromeda nitida, is said to fur- nish beautiful and wholesome honey in great quantities. The Virginia creeper also blooms in July. I wish I could say that this beautiful vine, transplendent in autumn, is a favorite with the honey-bee. Though it often, nay always, swarms with wild bees when in blossom, yet I never saw a honey-bee visit the ample bloom amidst its rich, green, vigorous foliage. The St. John’s wort, Hypericum, with its many species, both shrubby and herbaceous, offers bountiful contributions to the delicious stores of the honey-bee. The catnip, Nepeta cataria, and asparagus—which if uncut in spring will bloom in June— so delectable for the table, and so elegant for trimming table meats and for banquets in autumn, come now to offer their nectarian gifts. Basil or mountain mint, Pyenanthemum lanceolatum—we might almost include all the mints, the blue and white ver- vains, or verbenas, Verbena hastata, and V. stricta; the iron weeds, Veronias; the malvas, culvers root, Veronica Virginica —another of the figwort family; Indian plantains, Cucalias, and vipers’ bugloss—the so-called blue thistle—all contribute to the apiary in July; the vipers’ bugloss, Echiuwm vulgare, though most common South is very abundant at Beeton, Canada. Mr. Jones has it growing all about his apiaries. I have never seen it in Michigan. It is a near relation of borage, and does not belong even to the family—Compositee—of the thistles. In California, the blue gum and the red gum, Eucalyptus globulus, and £. rostrata, introduced from Australia, furnish honey from July and August till December. The catalpa, a very rapid growing tree, throws its large, 286 July Plants. showy biossoms to the breeze and bees in July. It is rapidly growing in favor as a shade tree, and is incomparable for posts. It lasts for a great many years when imbedded in the earth. But, ‘‘the noblest Roman of them all” is the cabbage palmetto, Chamerops palmetto (Fig. 157), as Mr. Hart, of Florida, says, Fic. 157. exemigonon sp, fo, Te —— Hilfe g gn a= Cabbage Palmetto. this is the linden of the South. It yields abundant honey, which, as all who saw and tasted it at the late Convention at Cincinnati, can vouch, is unsurpassed in flavor. Mr. Muth well said that he wished no finer. This tree grows to the heighth of seventy feet. The trunk is leafless to near the top, and varies little in size from the earth to the top. The small, white blossoms nestle among the long palm leaves in profusion, and are rich in both nectar and pollen, from June Ist till August. The tree is found from the Carolinas to the Gulf. At the same time with the above, the white blossom of the black mangrove, Avicennia tomentosa, and its near relative, Avicennia oblongifolia, come forth with their abundant and in- comparable nectar which hangs in drops. The honey from this and the cabbage palmetto is clear, and as fine and beauti- July Planis. 287 ful as that of white clover. This tree is confined to the Penin- sula of Florida, where it is regarded as the best honey plant that grows in that locality. Here we see the danger of common names. This is not a mangrove at all, though the leaves resemble those of the true Fia. 158. —SS—> = = ——— == =— sss ‘True Mangrove. mangrove, they are more tomentose or hairy, and, like that tree. it grows down to the very waters’ edge, so it is not affected 288 August and September Plants. by drouth. This is an evergreen, and forms an impenetrable thicket on the muddy shores of the sea. It belongs to the same family as our verbenas—the vervain family. The true mangrove (Fig. 158) has yellow blossoms, and like the renowned Banyan tree, sends numerous stems to the earth, each of which takes root. This tree belongs to the mangrove family, and is Rhizophora mangle. AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER PLANTS. The cultivated buckwheat, Fagopyrum esculentum (Fig. 159), usually blooms in August, as it is sown the first of July —three pecks per acre is the amount to sow—but by sowing the first of June, it may be made to bloom the middle of July, Fic. 159. tl Buckwheat. when there is generally, in most localities, an absence of nectar- secreting flowers. The honey is inferior in color and flavor, though some people prefer this to all other honey. The silver- leaf buckwheat blooms longer, has more numerous flowers, and thus yields more grain than the common variety. Now come the numerous golden-rods. The species of the genus Solidago (Fig. 160), in the Eastern United States, number nearly two-score, and occupy all kinds of soils, and August and September Plants. 289: are at home on upland, prairie and morass. These abound in all parts of the United States. They yield abundance of rich, golden honey, with flavor that is unsurpassed by any other. Fortunate the apiarist who can boast of a thicket of Solidagoes in his locality. ; The many plants usually styled sunflowers, because of their resemblance to our cultivated plants of that name, which deck the hill-side, meadow, and marsh-land, now unfurl their Fie. 160. Golden-Rod. showy involucres, and open their modest corollas, to invite the myriad insects to sip the precious nectar which each of the clustered flowers secretes. Our cultivated sunflowers, I think, are indifferent honey plants, though some think them big with beauty, and their seeds are relished by poultry. But the asters (Fig. 161), so wide-spread, the beggar-ticks, Bidens, and Span- ish-needles of our marshes, the tick-seed, Coreopsis, also, of the low, marshy places, with hundreds more of the great family Composit, are replete with precious nectar, and with favor- able Cha make the apiarist who dwells in their midst jubi- 9 J 290 August and September Plants. lant, as he watches the bees which fairly flood the hives with the rich and delicious honey. In all of this great family, Fig. 162. Spider Plant. the flowers are small and inconspicuous, clustered in compact heads, and when the plants are showy with bloom, iike the Practical Conclusions. 291 sun-flowers, the brilliancy is due to the involucre, or bracts which serve as a frill to decorate the more modest flowers. The great Willow Herb, or Fire Weed, Epilobium angustifo- lium, is often the source of immense honey harvests. The downy seeds blow to great distances, and finding a lodgment, their-vitality makes them burst forth whenever brush is burned or forests fires rage. Hence the name, Fire Weed. Another excellent fall honey plant of wide range is the Coral Berry or Indian Currant, Symphoricarpus vulgaris. The honey prod- uct of this plant is worthy its name. I close this account with mention of another Cleome, the famous Spider Plant (Fig. 162), Cleome pungens. This plant thrives best in rich, damp clay soil. It is only open for a little time before night-fall and at early dawn; but when open its huge drops of nectar keep the bees wild with excitement, calling them up even be- fore daylight, and enticing them to the field long after dusk. I have thus mentioned the most valuable honey plants of our country. Of course there are many omissions. Let all apiarists, by constant observation, help to fill up the list. BOOKS ON BOTANY. I am often asked what books are best to make apiarists botanists. I am glad to answer this question, as the study of botany will not only be valuable discipline, but will also fur- nish abundant pleasure, and give important practical informa- tion. Gray’s Lessons and Manual of Botany, in one volume, published by Ivison, Phinney, Blakeman & Co., New York, is the most desirable treatise on this subject. A more recent work by Prof. C. E. Bessey, and published by Henry Holt & Co., is also very excellent. PRACTICAL CONCLUSIONS. It will pay well for the apiarist to decorate his grounds with soft and silver maples, for their beauty and early bloom. If his soil is rich, sugar maples and lindens may well serve a similar purpose. The Judas and tulip trees, both North and South, may well be made to ornament his home, For vines, obtain the wistarias. 292 Practical Conclusions. Sow and encourage the sowing of Alsike clover and silver- leaf buckwheat in your neighborhood. Be sure that your wife, children, and bees can often repair to a large bed of the new giant or grandiflora mignonette, and remember that it, with figwort, spider plant, Rocky Mountain bee plant, and borage, bloom till frost. Study the bee plants of your region, and then study the above table, and provide for a succession, remembering that the mustards, rape, and buckwheat may be made to bloom almost at pleasure, by sowing at the proper time. Do not forget that borage and the mustards seem com- paratively indifferent to wet weather. Be sure that all waste places are stocked with motherwort, catnip, figwort, cleome, viper’s bugloss, asters, etc. The above dates, unless specially mentioned, are only cor- rect for Michigan, Northern Ohio, and similar latitudes, and for more Southern latitudes must be varied, which, by com- parison of a few, as the fruit trees, becomes no difficult matter. Wintering Bees. 293 CHAPTER XVIII. WINTERING BEES. This is a subject, of course, of paramount importance to the apiarist of the Northern States, as this is the rock on which some of even the most successful have recently split. YetI come fearlessly to consider this question, as from all the mul- titude of disasters I see no occasion for discouragement. If the problem of successful wintering has not heen solved al- ready, it surely will be, and that speedily. So important an interest was never yet vanquished by misfortune and there is no reason to think that history is now going to be reversed. Of course this chapter has no practical value to the apiarists of the South and Pacific Coast. There safe wintering is as- sured, ‘except as the careless bee-keeper permits starvation. THE CAUSES OF DISASTROUS WINTERING. I fully believe, and to no branch of this subject have I giv- en more thought, study, and observation, that all the losses may be traced to either unwholesome food, failure in late breeding of the previous year, extremes of temperature, or protracted cold with excessive dampness. I know from actual and wide-spread observation, that the severe loss of 1870 and 1871 was attended in this part of Michigan with unsuitable honey in the hive. The previous autumn was unprecedent- edly dry. Flowers were rare, end storing was largely from insect secretion, and consequently the stores were unwhole- some. I tasted of honey from many hives only to find it nau- seating. Again, suppose that after the basswood season in July, there is no storing of honey, either from want of space, or from lack of bloom; in this case brood-rearing ceases, yet if the weather is dry and warm, as of course it will be in August and September, the bees continue to wander about, and death comes apace, and by autumn the bees are reduced in numbers, old in days, and illy prepared to brave the winter and perform the duties of spring. I fully believe that if all the colonies of our State and country had been kept breeding by proper use of the extractor and feeding, even till into 294 Wintering Bees—Good Food. October, we should have had a different record, especially as to spring dwindling and consequent death. In the autumn of 1872, I kept my bees breeding till the first of October. The following winter I had no loss, while my neighbors lost all of their bees. Extremes of heat and cold are also detrimental to the bees. If the temperature of the hive becomes too high, the bees become restless, eat more than they ought, and if confined to their hives are distended with their feces, become diseased, besmear their comb and hives, anddie. If when they become thus disturbed, they could have a purifying flight, all would be well. Again, if the temperature becomes extremely low, the bees to keep up the animal heat must take more food; they are uneasy, exhale much moisture, which may settle and freeze on the outer combs about the cluster, preventing the bees from getting the needed food, and thus in this case both dysentery and starvation confront the bees. That able and far-seeing apiarist, the lamented M. Quinby, was one of the first to discover this fact; and here, as elsewhere, gave advicc that if heeded would have saved great loss and sore disap- pointment. I have little doubt, in fact I know from actual investigation, that in the past severe winters, those bees which under confinement have been subject to severe oxtremes, were the ones that invariably perished. Had the bees been kept in a uniform temperature, ranging frovn 35° to 45° F., the rec- ord would have been materially changed. Excessive moisture, especially in cases of protracted cold, is always to be avoided. Bees, liko all other animals, are con- stantly giving off moisture, which of course will be accelerat- ed if the bees become disturbed and are thus led to consume more food. This moisture not only acts as explained above, but also induces fungous growths. The mouldy comb is not wholesome, though it may never cause death. Hence another necessity for sufficient warmth to drive this moisture from the hive, and some means to absorb it without opening the hive above and permitting a current, which will disturb the bees, and cause the greater consumption of honey. THE REQUISITE TO SAFE WINTERING—GOOD FOOD. To winter safely, then demands that the bees have thirty pounds, by weight not guess—I have known three cases when Secure Late Breeding. 295 guessing meant starvation. of good capped honey (coffee A sugar ig just as good). If desired this‘may be fed as previ- ously explained, which should be done so early that all will be capped during the warm days ++ October. The bees should be able to pass over or through the combs. Hill’s device—bent pieces placed above the frames so as to raise the cloth cover—will permit the first, while small holes cut through the combs will enable the bees to pass from one comb to another without having to pass around. These holes may be cut with a knife, or a tin tube the size of one’s finger may be driven through the comb, and left in if desired, in which case the comb should be pushed out of the tube, and the tube should be no longer than the comb is thick. This preparatory work I always do early in October, when I ex- tract all uncapped honey, take out all frames after I have given each colony the thirty pounds, by weight, of honey, con- fine the space with a division-board, cover with the quilt and chaff, and then leave undisturbed till the cold of November calls for further care. I prefer that the combs have no pollen in them, and that they be so fullot honey thai six or eight will be enough. Pollen usually does no harm, though sometimes it is iajurious. The combs may well be one-half inch apart. If the bees have been neglected, and mid-winter finds them destitute of stores, then they should not be fed liquid honey, though this has sometimes been done with success, but either the Good or Viallon or some other solid candy should be placed on the frames just above the cluster. Or.we may run the candy into a frame and hang it in the hive. SECURE LATE BREEDING. Keep the bees breeding till the first of October. Except in years of excessive drouth, this will occur in many parts of the country without extra care. Failure may result from the presence of worthless queens. Any queens which seem not to be prolific should be superseded whenever the fact becomes evident. I regard this as most important. Few know how much is lost by tolerating feeble, impotent queens in the apia- ry, whose ability can only keep the colonies alive. Never keep such queens about. Here, then, is another reason for always keeping extra queens on hand. Even with excellent 296 Box for Packing. queens, a failure in the honey yield may cause breeding to cease. In such cases, we have only to feed as directed under the head of feeding. TO SECURE AND MAINTAIN THE PROPER TEMPERATURE. We ought also to provide against extremes of temperature. It is desirable to keep the temperature between 35° and 50° F., through the entire winter, from November to April. If no cellar or house is at hand, this may be accomplished as follows: Some pleasant, dry day in late October or early No- vember, raise the stand and place straw beneath; then sur- round the hive with a box a foot outside the hive, with movable: op, and open on the east; or else have a long wooden tube, opposite the entrance, to permit flight; this tube should be six or eight inches square to permit easy examina- tion in winter. The same end may be gained by driving stakes and putting boards around. Then we crowd between the box and the hive either cut straw, chaff or shavings. After placing a good thickness of cut straw above the hive, lay on the cover of the box, or cover with boards. This pre- serves against changes of temperature during the winter, and also permits the bees to fly, if it becomes necessary from a protracted period of warm weather. I have thus kept all our bees safely during two of the disastrous winters. This plan usually succeeds well, but will fail in a very severe winter like that of 1880-81. As some may wish to try, and pos- sibly to adopt it; I will describe the box used at our College, which costs but one dollar and is convenient to store away in summer. BOX FOR PACKING. The sides of this (Fig. 163, a, a) facing east and west are three and a half feet long, two feet high at the south end, and two and a half feet at the north. They are in one piece, which is secured by nailing the boards which form them to cleats, which are one inch from the ends. The north end (Fig. 163, 6) is three feet by two and a half feet, the south (Fig. 163, 6), three feet by two, and made the same as are the sides. The slanting edges of the side (Fig. 163, a, a) are made by using for the upper boards, the strips formed by sawing diagonally from corner to corner a board six inches wide and Box for Packing. 297 three feet long. The cover (Fig. 163, g), which is removed in figure, is large enough to cover the top and project one inch at both ends. It should be battened, and held in one piece by cleats (Fig. 163, 4) four inches wide, nailed on to the ends. These will drop over the ends of the box, and thus hold the cover-in place, and prevent rain and snow from driving in. When in place this slanting cover permits the rain to run off easily, and will dry quickly after a storm. By a single nail at each corner the four sides may be tacked together about the hive, when it can be packed in with cut Fig. 163. \— fel straw (Fig. 163), or fine chaff, which should be carefully done, if the day is cold, so as not to disquiet the bees, At the cen- tre and bottom of the east side (Fig. 163, ¢), cut out a square, eight inches each way, and between this and the hive place a bottomless tube (the top of this tube is represented as removed in figure to show entrance to hive), before putting in the cut straw or chaff and adding the cover. is box should be put in place before the bleak cold days of Novem- ber, and retained in position till the stormy winds of April are 298 Chaff Hives. passed. This permits the bees to fly when very warm weather comes in winter or spring, and requires no attention from the apiarist. By placing two or three hives close together in autumn—yet never move the colonies more than three or four feet at any one time, as such removals involve the loss of many bees —one box may be made to cover all, and at less expense. This will also be more trustworthy in very cold winters. Late in April these boxes may be removed and packed away, and the straw or chaff carried away, or removed a short distance and burned. CHAFF HIVES Messrs. Townley, Butler, Root, Poppleton and others, prefer chaff hives, which are simply double-walled hives, with the four or five inch chambers filled with chaff. The objections to these I take to be: first, they are not proof against severe and long- continued cold, like the winter of 1880-81; second, such cum- brous hives are inconvenient to handle insummer ; and, third, they are expensive. That they would in part supply the place of shade, is, perhaps, in their favor, while Mr. A. I. Root thinks they are not expensive. Mr. O. O. Poppleton, one of our most intelligent bee-keep- ers, shows practically that the first objection given above is not valid. So very likely the failure in so many apiaries in 1880-81 was rather due to improper use. Mr. Poppleton claims numerous advantages for these hives: 1st. In his hands, success. 2d. They permit early preparation for winter. 3d. They give entire freedom from care of the bees from September till March. 4th. Preparation for winter requires only slight labor. 5th. We can easily get at the bees at any time. 6th. The bees are not excited by a slight rise in tempera- ture, and so are not sost by flying on cold days; do not breed in winter and spring when they need quiet, and do not “‘dwindle” in spring. 7th. They are valuable aids in building up nuclei and weak colonies at cold periods at any one time of the year. 8th. They are specially desirable to protect the bees in April and May, and prevent ‘‘spring dwindling.” Chaff’ Hives. 299 RULES FOR THEIR USE, Mr. Poppleton urges the following important points: Ist. Pack early in Autumn before cold weather, and do Fie. 164, ATONE EH At (Aa | el CER mG mn \ oo fin Sessa ae Se not remove the packing till the warm weather has come to stay. Fic. 165, 2d. Have five or six inches on ail sides of bees, of fine chaff—timothy is best—entirely freed from straw. ; 34. Be sure and have the chaff below the bees as well as above and on the sides. : Ath. Do not put the chaff above the bees on loose, but con- fine in sacks. This is for convenience and neatness. 300 Wintering in Bee House. 5th. Have as much empty space as possible inside the hive and outside the packing; and never let the cover to the hive rest immediately on the packing. 6th. Crowd the bees on to a few frames—never more than eight—and the packing close to the bees. 7th. Winter passages should be made through all the combs. Mr. Jones prefers that the outer wall of the chaff hive (Fig. 164) should be of narrow boards so as to be more per- vious to dampness. He also uses fine dry saw-dust instead of chaff. Mr. Roet in his two-story hives (Fig. 165) uses a thicker layer of chaff below, but carries it tothe top. Of course the double -wall need not extend on the sides of the frames. The division boards on the sides of the frames may make the double wall. WINTERING IN BEE HOUSE. As Mr. D. A. Jones has tested bee houses on a very large scale, and met with success, I will quote directly from him: ‘‘The house should be so constructed that the out-door temperature cannot affect that of the bee-house; and in order to accomplish this its walls should be packed tightly with two feet of dry sawdust or three feet of chaff, packing overhead same thickness, and the bottom so protected that no frost can penetrate. Next, it should have a ventilating tube at the top, of not less than one square inch to each colony of bees. It should have sub-earth ventilation by means of a tube laid below the depth frost will penetrate, and from one to three hundred feet in length, coming in contact with outside atmos- phere at the other end; as air passes through this tube it is tempered by the distance through the earth, and comes into the house at an even temperature. By means of slides at these ventilators, the temperature can be arranged in the bee house, which should stand from 48° to 46°, and in no case should it fall lower than 42°. There should be tight-fitting triple doors, which will make two dead-air spaces. ‘¢ When the bee house is filled, and during warm weather in the spring—the bees should not be let out on the summer stands until the first pollen appears (which is generally from the Tag Alder or Black Willow)—it is necessary that the temperature of the room be kept at the wintering standpoint. This may Wintering in Cellar. ool be done by means of an ice-box or refrigerator, filled with ice or snow, and suspended at top of room in close proximity to the ceiling. The bottom of the box must be so constructed that while the warm air may be allowed to pass up through the refrigerator, the drippings will not drop to the floor and create moisture. This latter may be prevented by means of a tube running from the box down through the floor. ‘« Winter passages should be made through combs, between which a space of half an inch should be left. During the last sunshining days in fall remove the lid and cloth from hive and allow the sun to shine in; this purities and driesthem. Then put on cloth free from propolis; that same evening carry bees carefully into the house, placing them on a bench 10 to 12 inches from the floor or ground; this keeps them out of the carbonic acid gas, which is given off by the bees in the hive, and which sinks to the lowest part of the bee house. The lids should be removed, and only cloth or cushion of chaff or saw- dust allowed to remain on hive. Leaveentrance wide open. “Tf more than one row of hivesare placed in the house, place them one above the other, arranging so that the hives shall break joints. Place the weaker colonies at the top and keep two thermometers in the room, one at the level of the lower row and the other on a line with the highest hives.” WINTERING IN CELLAR, With only a few colonies, a cellar is not only more conven- ient, but I think it is safer than a house entirely above ground. In fact, I fully believe that a good cellar, thoroughly ventilated with a sub-earth ventilator, so as to always give a uniform temperature, is unsurpassed for wintering bees. Our cellar thus arranged has given perfect success. We have yet to lose our first colony in it. I know of several similar cases. I’know of no exception. A cellar in which we are sure of our ability to control the temperature needs to be dark and quiet, and ventilated as described above. As: already stated, the ventilator to bring air may well be made of tile, and pass through the earth for one or two hundred feet and then open at the bottom of the cellar. If possible, the ventilator that carries the foul air off should be connected with a stove-pipe in a room above, with its lower end reaching to the bottom of the cellar. 302 Wintering in Cellar. This arrangement secures perfect ventilation, and as the fresh air is brought through the earth below the line of frost, it is warmed in winter and cooled in spring, so that the refriger- ator mentioned above is not necessary. This makes a cellar much superior toahouse. The pipe should join the stove-pipe in the room above, so high as not to destroy the draft to the stove. I would have this pipe four inches in diameter, and the sub-earth pipe at least six inches. The College apiary cellar is grouted throughout, which makesit more dry andneat. Ofcourse it should be thoroughly drained, and entirely mouse-tight. The colonies should be put into the depository when the hives are dry, before cold weather, and should remain till April; though in January and March, if there are days that are warm, they may be taken out and the bees permitted to fly, though never unless they seem uneasy and soil the entrances to their hives. Such uneasiness shows that either our cellar or our preparation is faulty. Always, when taken out, they should be placed on their old stands, so that no bees may be lost. Towards night, when all are quiet, return them to the cellar. I would not remove bees till towards night, as it is better that they have a good flight, and then become quiet. When moved out it is very desirable to brush away all dead bees, which is an argument in favor of a movable bottom-board. In moving the hives into the cellar, great care should be exercised not to jar them. It were better ifthe bees should not know that they were being moved at all. That the moisture may be absorbed, it may be well to cover the bees with a bag filled with chaff, or fine dry saw-dust, even in the cellar, though I doubt if this is necessary. I make the bag so long that the chaff or saw-dust may not only cover above, but extend close down outside the division-boards. I partially or wholly remove the cover to the hive while in the cel- lar. With others, I have found that water in a cellar is not injurious, especially if the room be well ventilated. In fact, water which may be contained in a cistern or pass into and out of the cellar through tile, with the outlet a little higher than the inlet, serves admirably to preserve a uniform tem- perature, which is of the greatest importance. It not only keeps the temperature up in severe weather but down in spring, and saves all expense of sub-earth ventilation. Burying Bees. 303 I have found it advantageous, when preparing my bees for winter, in October, to contract the chamber by use of a divis- ion-board. This is very desirable if wintered out doors, and with frames afoot square is very easily accomplished. By use of eight frames the space (one cubic foot) is very compact, and serves to economize the heat, not only in winte: but in sping. By thus using division-boards with only three frames have been very successful in wintering nuclei. We have only to guard against low temperature. erhaps I ought to say that all colonies should be strong in autumn; but I have said before, never have weak colonies. Yet for fear some have been negligent, I remark shat weak colonies and nuclei should be united in preparing for winter. To do this, approximate the colonies each day, four or five feet, till they are side by side. Now remove the poorest queen, then smoke thoroughly, sprinkle both colonies with sweetened water scented with essence of peppermint, put a sufficient number of the best frames and all the bees into one of the hives, and then set this midway between the position of the hives at the commencement of the uniting. The bees will unite peaceably, and make a strong colony. In case of nuclei I usually unite three for winter. Uniting colonies may pay at other seasons. It may seem rash to some, yet I fully believe that if the above suggestions are carried out in full, I may guarantee successful wintering. But if we do lose our bees, having all our hives, combs, and honey, we can buy colonies in the spring with a perfect certainty of making 200 or 800 per cent. on our investment. Even with the worst condition of" things, we are still ahead, in way of profit, of most other vocations. , BURYING BEES, OR CLAMPS. In principle this is the same ascellar wintering. There are two serious objections to it. First, we do not know that the temperature is just right, and secondly, if aught goes wrong we know nothing of it—the bees are away out of sight. If this is practiced, the ground should be either sandy or ‘ell drained. If we can choose a side-hill it should be done. Beneath the hives and around them, straw should be placed. I should advise leaving the entrance well open, yet secure against mice. The hives should all be placed beneath the surface 304 Spring Dwindling. level of the earth, then form a mound above them sufficient to preserve against extreme warmth or cold. A trench about the mound to carry the water off quickly is desirable. In this arrangement the ground acts asa moderator. I would urge the suggestion that no one try this with more than a few colonies, for several years, till repeated successes show that it is reliable in all seasons. SPRING DWINDLING. As already suggested, this is not to be feared if we keep our bees breeding till late autumn, prepare them well and ear- ly for winter, and use a good cellar for wintering. It may be further prevented by forbidding late autumn flights, fre- quent flights in winter, when the weather is warm, and too early flying in spring. These may all be curtailed or prevent- ed by the packing system as described above, as thus prepar- ed the bees will not feel the warmth, and so will remain quiet in the hive. Iam aware that this matter of spring dwindling is most stoutly urged as an objection to cellar wintering, and as an ar- gument in favor of chaff hives. I have had excellent success in cellar wintering, and never yet lost a colony by ‘‘ spring dwindling.” Crowd the bees up onto a few frames in Septem- ber or early October; cover warmly above and at sides of di- vision boards with generous bags of saw-dust, and leave these on the hives till the next June if the weather remains cool, and bees from the cellar—a good cellar—will come through the spring in excellent condition. In the winter of ’81-82, I put some chaff hives into my cellar alongside of my single walled hives, arranged as just described, and the bees in them did no better in spring after removal from the cellar than in other hives. Be sure in early spring that the bees have no more combs than they can cover, and spring dwindling will lose its terror. The division board and saw-dust pillow are. antidotes for this malady. Never set bees permanently on their summer stands from the cellar till the flowers and warmth will enable them to work. I have little doubt but that bees will do better if no breed- ing takes place in winter. Perfect quiet should be our desire. If the bees have no pollen, of course_no breeding will take place, and so I advised its removal. It is not for winter use, How to Build a Bee House. 305 CHAPTER XIX THE HOUSE APIARY AND BEE HOUSE. The House Apiary is a frost-proof house in which the bees are kept the year through. The entrances to the hives are through the sides of the house, and all manipulation of the bees is carried on inside. From what I have said about win- tering, it at once appears that such a house should preserve a uniform temperature. As many such houses were built a few years ago, and are now, with very few exceptions, used for other purposes, I will only say that if such houses are ever desirable it is only when queen rearing is to occupy the chief attention of the apiarist. : BEE HOUSES. As a good and convenient bee-house is very desirable in every apiary of any considerable size, I will proceed to give a few hints in reference to its construction. First. I should have a good cellar under the house, entire- ly frost proof, mouse and rat proof, thoroughly grouted, and ventilated as already described. I would have three doors to this from the north, the outer one inclined. I should have the entrance an inclined plane, which, especially if the apiary is large, should be so gradual in its descent that a car could pass down it into the cellar, on a temporary track. The cel- lar should be well drained, or if water be permitted to pass through it, this should be kept in prescribed channels. In case of large apiaries the track and car make the removal of the bees to and from the cellar an easy matter. The first floor I should have, if my apiary was large, on a level with the ground. This (Fig. 166) should contain three rooms, onegon the north for a shop, one on the south-east for comb honey, and one on the south-west for extracting, and storing extracted honey and brood combs. For 100 colonies of bees, this build- ing need not be more than twenty by twenty-four feet. The room for comb will then be eight by twelve feet, that for extract- ing, eight by sixteen, and theshop in the form ofan L. A chim- ney should pass from the attic at the common angle of these 20 306 How to Build a Bee House. three rooms through the roof. Wide doors on the south, if the apiary is large, should permit the car to enter either of the rooms on an extemporized track, whenever extracting or taking off comb honey is in operation. The house should be so constructed as to be always free from rats and mice. In summer, wire gauze doors should be used, and the same material should be tacked on the outside of the window casing of the two south rooms. This gauze should extend from four to six inches above, and be held out Fic. 166, a ' & : | a 8 dts a ] | R Ea a 8 8x12 | = a | = d é a pee ert Bee House. from the wall by one-fourth inch strips. This permits all bees to leave the house, while the character of the opening pre- cludes outside bees from entering. Inside doors should per- mit our passing directly from any of these rooms to the others. The position of the chimney makes it easy to have a fire in any of the rooms. This would be desirable in the shop, in winter, when hive making, etc., is in operation, or whea visit- ing with other bee-keepers was in progress. The ripening of honey or late extracting makes it often desirable to havea fire Car and Tracks. 307 in the extracting room. If comb-honey is kept in the desig- nated room late in the season, it may be desirable to warm that room. Of course a large stove in the shop might be made to heat any or all of the rooms. I would have the comb-honey room very tight, and ventilated by an easily regulated slide into the chimney for the purpose of easy fumi- gation. Platforms a little out from the wall on which the honey may rest for a time are desirable, as the honey will not be so fine if immediately crated for market. The extractor room should have close, moth proof cupboards for receiving brood combs. Those in our house are high’ enough for three rows of frames, and wide enough to just re-| ceive the top-bar of a frame cross-wise. Cleats nailed on to the inside hold the frames, which are turned diagonally a little to pass them to the lower tier. This room ought also to have a table for work, and large open tanks, open barrels, or ex- tractor cans, to hold the honey while it ripens. If the build-' ing is painted dark, this room will be warmer in summer.} The warmer it becomes the more rapidly the honey thickens.>_ A chamber above costs but little, and serves admirably as a place for storage. This may be entered by stairs from the shop. A neat bench (Fig. 166, b), and sharp tools, all convenient- ly placed, make the shop a very desirable fixture to every apiary. & I have spoken of a car and track in large apiaries; such an arrangement, which costs but little, is exceedingly desirable. The tracks run close to the rows of hives, and by means of simple switches, the car can be run anywhere in the apiary. - 308 Robbing. CHAPTER XX. EVILS THAT CONFRONT THE APIARIST. There are various dangers that are likely to vex the apia- rist, and even to stand in the way of successful apiculture. Yet, with knowledge, most, if not all, of these evils may be wholly vanquished. Among these are: Robbing among the bees, disease, and depredations from other animals. ROBBING. This is a trouble that often very greatly annoys the inex- perienced. Bees only rob at such times as the general scarcity of nectar forbids honest gains. When the question comes: Jamine or theft, like many another, they are not slow to choose the latter. It is often induced by working with the bees at such times, especially if honey is scattered about or left lying around the apiary. It is especially to be feared in spring, when colonies are apt to be weak in both honey and: bees, and thus are unable to protect their own meager stores. The remedies for this evil are not far to seck: : ; First. Strong colonies are very rarely molested, and are al- most sure to defend themselves against marauders; hence it is only the weaklings of the apiarist’s flock that are in danger. Therefore, regard for our motto, ‘‘Keep all colonies strong,” will secure against harm from this cause. Second. Italians,—the Cyprians and Syrians are even more spirited in this work of defense than are the Italians— as before stated, are fully able, and quite as ready, to pro- tect their rights against neighboring tramps. Woe be to the thieving bee that dares to violate the sacred rights of the home of our beautiful Italians, for such temerity is almost sure to cost the intruder its life. But weak colonies, like our nuclei, and black bees, are still eatily kept from harm. Usually, the closing of the entrance so that but a single bee can pass through, is all sufficient. With the hive we have recommended, this is easily accom- plished by simply moving the hive back or using the triangular blocks, y Fow Brood. 3809 Another way to secure such colonies against robbing is to move them into the cellar for a few days. This is a further advantage, as less food is eaten, and the strength of the indi- vidual bees is conserved by the quiet, and as there is no nec- tar in the fields no loss is suffered. In all the work of the apiary at times of no honey gather- ing, we cannot be too careful to keep all honey from the bees unless placed in the hives. The hives, too, should not be kept open long at a time. Neat, quick work should be the watch-word. ring times when robbers are essaying to practice their nefarious designs, the bees are likely to be more than usually irritable, and likely to resent intrusion; hence the importance of more than usual caution, if it is desired to introduce a queen. Working under the bee-tent (Fig. 101) prevents all danger of inciting the bees to rob. DISEASE, The common dysentery—indicated by the bees soiling their hives, as they void their feces within instead of without— which so frequently works havoc in our apiaries, is, without doubt, I think, consequent upon wrong management on the part of the apiarist, as already suggested in Chapter XVIII. As the methods to prevent this have already been sufficiently considered, we pass to the terrible . FOUL BROOD. This disease, said to have been known to Aristotle—though this is doubtful, as a stench attends common dysentery— though it has occurred in our State as well as in States about us, is not familiar to me, I having never seen but one case and that on Kelly’s Island, in the summer of 1875, where I found it had reduced the colonies on that Island to two. Of late I receive samples of this affected brood each season. It is causing sad havoc in many regions of our country. No bee malady can compare with this in malignancy. By it Dzierzon once lost his whole apiary of 500 colonies. Mr. #. Rood, first President of the Michigan Association, has lost his bees two or three times by this terrible plague. — The symptoms are as follows: Decline in the prosperity of the colony, because of failure to rear brood. The brood seems to putrefy, becomes ‘‘brown and salvy,” and gives off a stench 310 ' Foul Brood. which is by no means agreeable, while later the caps are con- cave instead of convex, and many will have a little hole through them. There is no longer any doubt as to the cause of this fearful plague. Like the fell ‘‘Pebrine,” which came so near exter- minating the silk worm, and a most lucrative and extensive industry in Europe, it, as conclusively shown by Drs. Preusz and Shénfeld, of Germany, is the result of fungous or veg- etable growth. Shénfeld not only infected healthy bee larve but those of other insects, both by means of the putrescent foul brood and by taking the spores. Fungoid growths are very minute, and the spores are so in- finitesimally small as often to elude the sharp detection of the expert microscopist. Most of the terrible, contagious dis- eases that human ftesh is heir to, like typhus, diphtheria, cholera, small pox, etc., etc., are now thought to be due to microscopic germs, and hence to be spread from home to home, and from hamlet to hamlet, it is only necessary that the spores, the minute seeds, either by contact or by some sustaining air current, be brought to new soil of flesh, blood, or other tissue —their garden spot—when they at once spring into growth, and thus lick up the very vitality of their victims. The huge mushroom will grow in a night. So, too, these other plants— the disease germs—will develop with marvelous rapidity; and hence the horrors of yellow fever, scarlatina, and cholera. To cure such diseases the fungi must be killed. To pre- vent their spread the spores must be destroyed, or else con- fined. But as these are so small, so light, and so invisible— easily borne and wafted by the slightest zephyr of summer, this is often a matter of the utmost difficulty. In ‘‘Foul Brood” these germs feed on the larve of the bees, and thus convert life and vigor into death and decay. If we can kill this miniature forest of the hive, and destroy the spores, we shall extirpate the terrible plague. Some of the facts connected with ‘‘Foul Brood” would lead us to think that the germs or spores of this fungus are only conveyed in the honey. This supposition, alone, enables us to understand one of the remedies which some of our ablest apiarists hold to be entirely sure. Foul Brood—Remedies. 311 REMEDIES, If we can find a substance that will prove fatal to the fungi and yet not injure the bees, the problem is solved. Our Gvr- man scientists—those masters in scientific research and discov- ery, have found this valuable fungicide in salicylic acid, an extract from the same willows that give us pollen and nectaz. This cneap white powder is easily soluble in alcohol, and, when mixed with borax, inwater. . Mr. Hilbert, one of the most thoughtful of German bee- keepers, was the first to affect a radical cure of foul brood in his apiary by the use of this substance. He dissolved fifty grains of the acid in five hundred grains of pure spirits. One drop of this ina grain of distilled water is the mixture he ap- tes Mr. C. F. Muth, from whom the above facts as to err Hilbert are gathered, suggests a variation in the mix- ture. Mr. Muth suggests an improvement, which takes advantage of the fact that the acid, which alone is very insoluble in water, is, when mixed with borax, soluble. His recipe is as follows: Eight grains of salicylic acid, eight grains of soda- borax, and one ounce of water. This remedy is applied as follows: First, uncap all the brood, then throw the fluid over the comb in a fine spray. This will not injure the bees, but will prove fatal to the fungi. Mr. Muth found on trial that though this method would cure, the labor and danger of spreading the disease in the operation was so great that actual cremation of all affected stocks was often to be preferrea. An improvement which is just as successful and without the ob- jections, is suggested by Mr. Muth as follows: Drum the bees all out into a clean hive, filled with foundation, shut them in this hive and feed them honey or syrup, after adding to each quart one ounce of the above compound, except that sixteen ounces each of the salicylic acid and soda-borax are used, thus maxing the solution of double thestrength. The honey should be extracted and boiled, the old combs melted into wax, and the hive scalded or burned. Great caution should be exercised that none of the honey be eaten by bees till it has been scalded. Mr. D. A. Jones is successful with what he terms the star- vation method: The bees are removed to an empty hive, and given no food for three or four days till they have digested 312 Enemies of Bees—Moths. all honey in their stomachs. They are then given founda- tion and food, and the combs, honey, and hive treated as de- scribed above. It would seem that the spores are in the honey, and by taking that the contagion is administered to the young bees. The honey may be purified from these noxious germs by subjecting it to the boiling temperature, which is generally, if not always, fatal to the spores of fungoid life. By immers- ing the combs in a salicylic acid solution, or sprinkling them with the same, they would be rendered sterile, and could be used without much fear of spreading contagion. It is better however, to melt thematonce. The disease is probably spread by robber bees visiting affected hives, and carrying with them in the honey the fatal germs. (I have found that a paste made of gum tragacanth and water is very superior, and I much prefer it for either general or special use to gum Arabic. Yetit soon sours—which means that it is nourishing these fungoid plants—and thus becomes disagreeable. I have found that a very little salicylic acid will render it sterile, and thus preserve it indefinitely.) ENEMIES OF BEES. Swift was no mean entomologist, as is shown in the following stanza: “The little fleas that do us tease, Have lesser fleas to bite them, And these again have lesser fleas, And so ad injinitum.” Bees are no exception to this law, as they have to brave the attacks of reptiles, birds, and other insects. In fact they are beset with perils at home and perils abroad, perils by night and perils by day. THE BEE MOTH—Guallcria cereana, Fabr. This insect belongs to the family of snout moths, Pyralide. This snout is not the tongue, but the palpi, which fact was not known by Mr. Langstroth, who is usually so accurate, as he essayed to correct Dr. Harris, who stated correctly that the tongue, the ligula, was ‘‘ very short and hardly visible.” This family includes the destructive hop moth, and the nox- icus meai and clover moths, and its members are very readily recognized by their usually long palpi, the so-called snouts. Enemies of Bees—Moths. 313 The eggs of the bee moth are white, globular and very small. These are usually pushed into crevices by the female moth as she extrudes them, which she can easily do by aid of her spy-glass-like ovipositor. They may be laid in the hive, in the crevice underneath it, or about the entrance. Soon these eggs hatch, when the gray, dirty looking caterpillars, with brown heads, seek the com’ on which they feed. To Fic. 167. Fia. 168. better protect themselves from the bees, they wrap themselves in a silken tube (Fig. 167) which they have power to spin. They remain in this tunnel of silk during all their growth, en- larging it as they eat. By looking closely, the presence of these larvae may be known by this robe of glistening silk, as it extends in branching outlines (Fig. 168) along the surface of the comb. A more speedy detection, even, than the defaced comb, comes from the particles of comb, intermingled with the powder-like droppings of the caterpillars, which will al- ways be seen on the bottom-board in case the moth-larve are at work. Soon, in three or four weeks, the larva are full grown (Fig. 169). Now the six jointed, and the ten prop- legs—making sixteen in all, the usual number possessed by cat- erpillars—are plainly visible. These larve are about an inch 314 Enemies of Bees—Moths. long, and show by their plump appearance that they at least can digest comb. They now spin their cocoons, either in some crevice about the hive, or, if very numerous, singly (Fig. 170, a) or in clusters (Fig. 170, 6) on the comb, or even in the drone-cells (Fig. 170, ¢), in which they become pupe, and in two weeks, even less sometimes, during the extreme heat of summer, the moths again appear. In winter they may re- Fia. 169. main as pupse for months. The moths or millers—sometimes incorrectly called moth-millers—are of an obscure gray color, and thus so mimic old boards that they are very readily passed unobserved by the apiarist. They are about three- fourths of an inch long, and expand (Fig. 171) nearly one Fie. 170. Fic. 171, and one-fourth inches. The females are darker than the male, possess a longer snout, and are usually a little larger. The wings, when the moths are quiet, are flat on the back for a narrow space, then slope very abruptly. They rest by day, t, when disturbed, will dart forth with great swiftness, so Esparnt styled them ‘‘nimble-footed.” They are active by night, when they essay to enter the hive and deposit their one or two hundred eggs. If the females are held in the hand Enemies of Bees—Moths. 315 they will often extrude their eges; in fact, they have been known to do this even after the head and thorax were severed from the abdomen, and, still more strange, while the latter was being dissected. It is generally stated that these are two-brooded, the first moths occurring in May, the second in August. Yet, as I have secu these moths in every month from May to Septem- ber, and as I have proved by actual observation that they may ass from egg to moth in less than six weeks, I think under avorable conditions there may be even three broods a year. It is true that the varied conditions of temperature—as the moth larvee may grow in a deserted hive, in one with few bees, or one croy,ded with bee life—will have much to do with the rapidity of development. Circumstances may so retard growth and development that.there may not be more than two, and ossibly, in extreme cases, not more than one brood in a season. It 1s stated by Mr. Quinby that a freezing temperature will kilt these insects in all stages, while Mr. Betsinger thinks that a deserted hive is safe; neither of which assertions is correct. I have seen hives whose bees were killed by the severe winter, crowded with moth pups or chrysalids the succeeding summer. I have subjected both larvee and pups to the freezing temper- ature without injuring them. I believe, in very mild winters, the moth and the chrysalids might be so protected as to escape unharmed, even outside the hive. It is probable, too, that the insects may pass the winter in any one of the various stages. HISTORY. These moths were known to writers of antiquity, as even Aristotle tells of their injuries. They are wholly of oriental origin, and are otten referred to by European writers as a ter- rible pest. The late Dr. Kirtland, the able scientist, and first President of our American Bee Convention, once said in a let- ter to Mr. Langstroth that the moth was first introduced into America in 1805, though bees had been introduced long before. They first seemed to be very destructive. It is quite probable, as has beensuggested, that the bees had to learn to fear and repel them; for, unquestionably, bees do grow in wisdom. In fact, may not the whole of instinct be inherited knowledge, which once had to be acauired by the animal? Surelv bees and other 316 Enemies of Bees—Moths. animals learn to battle new enemies, and vary their habits with changed conditions, and they also transmit this knowledge and their acquired habits to their offspring, as illustrated by setter and pointer dogs. In time, may not this account for all those varied actions, usually ascribed to instinct? At least, I be- lieve the bee to be a creature of no small intelligence. REMEDIES. Ir Europe, late writers give very little space to this moth. Once .a, serious pest, it has now ceased to alarm, or even dis- quiet the intelligent apiarist. In fact, we may almost call it a blessed evil, as it will destroy the bees of the heeciess, and thus prevent injury to the markets by their unsalable honey, while to the attentive bee-keeper it will work no injury at all. Neglect and ignorance are the moth breeders. As already stated, Italian bees are rarely injured by moths, and strong colonies never. As the enterprising apiarist will only possess these, it is clear that he is free from danger. The intelligent apiarist will also provide not only against weak, but queenless colonies as well, which from their abject dis- couragement are the surest victims to moth invasion. Know- ing that destruction is sure, they seem, if not to court death, to make no effort to delay it. As my friend, Judge J. H. Andrews, asserts, no bees, black or Italian, will be troubled with these insects so long as all the combs are covered with bees. In working with bees an occasional web will be seen glisten- ing in the comb, which should be picked out with a knife till the manufacturer—the ruthless larva—is found, when it should be crushed. Any larva seen about the bottom board, seeking place to spin its cocoon, or any pups, either on comb or in a crack, should also be killed. If, through carelessness, a col- ony has become thoroughly victimized by these filthy wax de vourers, then the bees and any combs not attacked should be transferred to another hive, after which the old hive should be sulphured by use of the smoker, as before described, then by giving one or two each of the remaining combs to strong colonies, after killing any pups that may be on them, they will be cleaned and used, while by giving the enfeebled colony brood, and if necessary a good queen, if it has any vigor remaining it will soon be rejoicing in strength and prosperity. Enemies of Bees—Robber Flies. 317 We have already spoken of caution as to comb noney and frames of comb, and so need not speak further of them. ‘TWO DESTRUCTIVE BEETLES. There are two destructive beetles that often work on the eomb, more, however, for the pollen and dead bees than for the wax. One of these, Tenebrionellus molitor, Linn., is the common flour or meal beetle. It is dark brown in color, and five-eighths of an inch (16 mm.) long. The larva or grub is of a lighter color and when fully developed is one inch (25 mm.) long. It resembles very closely the larva of our Elater beetles—the wire worms. The other is the bacon beetle, Der- mestes lardarius, Linn., which is a sore pest in museums, as it feeds on all kinds of dried animal tissues. The beetle is black, while nearly one-half of the wing covers, next to the thorax, are yellowish gray, lined in the middle with black. The bee- tle is three-eights of an inch (10 mm.) long. The larva is some longer, very hairy, and ringed with brown and black bands. ‘These beetles are not very troublesome in the apiary and‘can he readily destroyed by use of bisulphide of carbon. Care is necessary, however, in the use of this very explosive liquid. ROBBER FLIES. There are several of these flies that prey upon bees. The s14G. 172. ' most common is Asilus Missouriensis, Riley. This is a two- winged fly, of the predacious family Asihda, which attacks 318 Enemies of Bees—Robber Flies. and takes captive the bee and then feeds upon its fluids. It is more common in the southern part of our country. The fly (Fig. 172) hasa long, pointed abdomen, strong wings, and is very powerful. I have seen an allied species attack and overcome the powerful tiger-beetle, whereupon I took them both with my net, and now have them pinned, as they were captured, in our College cabinet. These flies delight in the warm sunshine, are very quick on the wing, and so are not easily captured. It is to be hoped that they will not become very numerous. If they should, I hardly know how they could be kept from their evil work. Frightening them or catching with a net might be tried, yet these methods would irritate the bees, and need to be tried before they are recommended. I have re- ceived specimens of this fly from nearly every Southern State. During the past summer this same fly has been well employed here in Michigan. It has been observed to kill the cabbage butterflies by scores. T have also a fly of the same family, with the same hee-de- stroying habits, a species of Erax (Fig. 173). In form it re- Fic. 173, Fig. 174. Tia, 174, sembles the one referred to above. The wing (Fig. i74), as will be seen, is quite different in its venation. I received this species from Louisiana. Fig. 174, a, shows the antenne magnified. The Nebraska bee-killer, Promachus bastardi, is the same in general appearance asthe above. The second vein of the primary wing, not the third, as in oase of Asilus, forks, In Erax. a3 seen in the figure, this branch is disconnected, Enemies of Bees—Robber Flies. 319 There are two other insects of this family, Mallophora orcina and Mallophora bomboides, which differ greatly in form from those mentioned above; they look more like bumble-bees, for which they have been mistaken. I have received these insects from several of our enterpris- ing bee-keepers of the South—Tennessee, Georgia, and Flor- Fia. 175. Fia. 176. ida—with the information that they dart forth from some con- venient perch, and with swift and sure aim grasp a bee, and bear it to some bush, when they leisurely suck out all but the mere erust and cast away the remains. The insects in question belong to Loew’s third group, Asilina, as the antenne end in a bristle (Fig. 175), while the sec- Fic. 177. ond longitudinal vein of the wing (Fig. 177, b) runs into the first (Fig. 177, a). 820 Enemies of Bees—Robber Flies. The genus is Dfallophora. The venation of the wings much resembles that of the genus Promachus, though the form of these insects is very different. In Maliophora and Promacus the venation is as represented in Fig. 177, where, as will be seen, the second vein (Fig. 177, 6) forks, while in the genus Asilus (Fig. 172) the third vein is forked, though in all three genera the third joint of the antenne (Fig. 175) ends in a prolonged bristle. One of the most common of these pests, which I am informed by Dr. Hagen is Mallophora orcina, Weid, (Fig. 178) is one inch long, and expands one and three-fourths inches (Fig. 179). The head (Fig. 175) is broad, the eyes black and prom- inent, the antenne three-jointed, the last joint terminating in a bristle, while the beak is very large, strong, and, like the eyes and antennz, coal black. This is mostly concealed by the light yellow hairs, which are crowded thick about the mouth and between the eyes. The thorax is prominent and thickly set with light yellow hairs. The abdomen is narrow, tapering, and covered with Fia. 178, Fig. 179. yellow hairs except the tip, which is black. Beneath, the in- sect is clear black, though there are scattering hairs of a gray- ish yellow color on the black legs. The pulvilli, or feet pads (Fig. 176, b), are two in number, bright yellow in color, sur- mounted by strong, black claws (Fig. 176, a), while below and between is the sharp spine (Fig. 176, ¢), technically known as the empodium. The habits of the flies are interesting, if not to our liking. Their flight is like the wind, and perched near the hive, they rush upon the unwary bee seturning to the hive with its full load of nectar, and grasping it with their hard strong legs, Enemies of Bees—Stinging Bug. 321 they bear it to some perch near by, when they pierce the crust, suck out the juices, and drop the carcass, and are then ready to repeat the operation. A hole in the bee shows the cause of its sudden taking off. The eviscerated bee is not always killed at once by this rude onslaught, but often can crawl some distance away from where it falls, before it expires. Another insect nearly as common is the Mallophora bomboid- es, Weid. This fly might be called a larger edition of the one just described, as in form, habits, and appearance, it closely resembles the other. It belongs to the same genus, possessing all the generic characters already pointed out. It is very dif- ficult to capture them, as they are so quick and active. _ This fly is one and five-sixteenths inches long, and expands two and a half inches. The head and thorax are much as in the other species. The wings are very long and strong, and, as in the other species, are of a smoky brown color. The abdomen is short, pointed, concave from side to side on the under surface, while the grayish yellow hairs are abundant on the legs and whole under portion of the body. The color isa lighter yellow than in the other species. These insects are powerfully built, and if they become numerous must prove a formidable enemy to the bees. Another insect very common and destructive in Georgia, though it closely resembles the two just described, is of a dif- ferent genus. It is the Laphria thoracica of Fabricius. In this genus the third vein is forked, and the third joint of the antenna is without the bristle, though it is elongated and taper- ing. The insect is black, with yellow hair covering the upper surface of the thorax. The abdomen is wholly black both above and below, though the legs have yellow hairs on the fe- murs and tibiz. This insect belongs to the same family as the others, and has the same habits. It is found North as well as South. THE STINGING-BuG.—Phymata Erosa, Fabr. This insect is very widely distributed throughout the United States. I have received it from Maryland to Missouri on the South, and from Michigan to Minnesota on the North. The insect will lie concealed among the flowers, and upon occasion will grasp a bee, hold it off at arm’s length, and suck out its blood and life. : 21 822 Enemies of Bees—Stinging Bug. This is a Hemipteron, or true bug, and belongs to the fam- ily Phymatide, Uhler. Itisthe Phymata erosa, Fabr., the spe- cific name erosa referring to its jagged appearance. It is also called the ‘‘stinging bug,” in reference to its habit of repelling intrusion by a painful thrust with its sharp, strong beak. The ‘‘stinging bug” (Fig. 180) is somewhat jagged in ap- pearance, about three-eighths of an inch long, and generally of a yellow color, though this latter seems quite variable. Fia. 180. Fia. 182. Side view, natural size. Magnified twice. Beak, much magnified. Frequently there is a distinct greenish hue. Beneath the ab- domen, and on the back of the head, thorax, and abdomen, it is more or less specked with brown; while across the dorsal Fia. 183. Fia. 184. Ce Bi] : Interior view. Exterior view, Antenna much magnified. Anterior leg magnified. aspect of the broadened abdomen is a marked stripe of brown (Fig. 181, d, d). Sometimes this stripe is almost wanting, sometimes a mere patch, while rarely the whole abdomen is very slightly marked, and as often we find it almost wholly Enemies of Bees—Stinging Bug. 323 brown above and below. The legs (Fig. 181, 6), beak and antenne (Fig. 181, a), are greenish yellow. The beak (Fig. 182) has three joints (Fig. 182, a, b, e), and a sharp point (Fig. 182, d). This beak is not only the great weapon of offense, but also the organ through which the food is sucked. By the use of this, the insect has gained the soubriquet of ‘stinging bug.” This compact jointed beak is peculiar to all, true bugs, and by observing it alone we are able to distinguish all the very varied forms of this group. The antenna (Fig. 183) is fourjointed. The first joint (Fig. 183, @) is short, the second and third (Fig. 183, 5 and ¢) are long and slim, while the ter- minal one (Fig. 183, d) is much enlarged. This enlarged. joint is one of the characteristics of the genus Phymata, as described by Latreille. But the most curious structural pecu- liarity of this insect and the chief character of the genus Phy- mata, is the enlarged anterior legs (Figs. 184 and 185). These, were they only to aid in locomotion, would seem like awkward, clumsy organs, but when we learn that. they are used to grasp and hold their prey, then we can but appreciate and admire their modified form. The femur (Fig. 184, 6) and the tarsus (Fig. 184, a) are toothed, while the latter is greatly Fig. 187. Claw, enlarged. Middle leg, much magnified. enlarged. From the interior lower aspect of the femur (Fig. 186) is the small tibia, while on the lower end of the tarsus (Fig. 185, d) is a cavity in which rests the single claw. The other four legs (Fig. 187) are much as usual. This insect, as already intimated, is very predacious, lying in wait, often almost concealed, among flowers, ready. to cap- ture and destroy unwary plant-lice, caterpillars, beetles, but- 824 Enemies of Bees—Bee-Hawk. terflies, moths, and even bees and wasps. We have already noticed how well prepared it is for this work by its jaw-like anterior legs, and its sharp, strong, sword-like beak. It is often caught on the golden rod. This plant, from its color, tends to conceal the bug, and from the character of the plant—being attractive as a honey plant to bees—the slow bug is enabled to catch the spry and active honey-bee. As Prof. Uhler well says of the ‘‘stinging-bug:” ‘‘It is very useful in destroying caterpillars and other vegetable-feed- ing insects, but is not very discriminating in its tastes, and would as soon seize the useful honey-bee as the pernicious saw- fly.” And he might have added that it is equally indifferent to the virtues of our friendly insects like the parasitic and pre- dacious species. We note, then, that this bug is not wholly evil, and as its destruction would be well-nigh impossible, for it is as widely scattered as are the flowers in which it lurks, we may well rest its case, at least until its destructiveness becomes more serious than at present. BEE-HAWK.—Libellule. These large, fine, lace-wings are neuropterous insects. They work mostly in the Southern States and are called Mosquito- hawks. Insects of this genus are called dragon flies, devil’s darning-needles, etc. These are exceedingly predacious. In fact, the whole sub-order is insectivorous. From its four net- ted, veined wings, we can tell it at once from the asilus flies before mentioned, which have but two wings. The Bee or Mosquito-hawks are resplendent with metallic hues, while the Bee-killers are of sober gray. The Mosquito-hawks are not inaptly named, as they not only pray upon other insects, swooping down upon them with the dexterity of a hawk, but their graceful gyrations, as they sport in the warm sunshine at noon-day, are not unlike those of our graceful hawks and fal- cons. ‘These insects are found most abundant near water, as they lay their eggs in water, where the larve live and: feed upon other animals. The larve are peculiar in breathing by gills in the rectum. The same water that bathes these organs and furnishes oxygen, is sent out in a jet, and thus sends the insect darting along. The larve also possess enormous jaws, which formidable weapons are masked till it is desired to use Enemies of Bees—Tachina Fly. 825 them, when the dipper-shaped mask is dropped or unhinged and the terrible jaws open and close upon the, unsuspecting victim, which has but a brief time to bewail its temerity. A writer from Georgia, in Gleanings, volume 6, page 35, states that these destroyers are easily scared away, or brought down by boys with whips, who soon become as expert in cap- turing the insects as are the latter in seizing the bees. One of the largest and most beautiful of these is Anax junius. It has a wide range in the United States, North and South, and everywhere preys.upon the bees. : TACHINA FLY. From descriptions which I have received, I feel certain that there is a two-winged fly, probably of the genus Tachina (Fig. 188), that works on bees. I have never. seen these, Fig. 188. though I have repeatedly requested those who have to send them tome. My friend, Mr. J. L. Davis, put some sick look- ing bees into a cage, and hatched the flies which he told me looked not unlike a small house-fly. It is the habit of these flies, which belong to the same family as our house-flies, which they much resemble, to lay their eggs on other insects. Their young, upon hatching, burrow into the insect'that is being vic- timized, and grow by eating it. It would be difficult to cope with this evil, should it become of great magnitude. We may well hope that this habit of eating bees is an exceptional one with it. The affected bees will be found dead at early dawn in front of the’ hives. BEE-LOUSE.—-Braula Coca, Nitsch. This louse (Fig. 189) is a wingless Dipteron, and one of the uniques among insects. It is a blind, spider-like parasite, 326 Enemies of Bees—Bee-Louse. and serves as a very good connecting link between insects and spiders, or, stil: better, between the Diptera, where it belongs, and the Hemiptera, which contains the bugs and most of the lice. It assumes the semi-pupa state almost as soon as hatched, Fie. 189 Imago. Larva. and, strangest of all, is, considering the size of the bee on which it lives and from which it sucks its nourishment, enor- mously large. ‘Two or three, and sometimes as many as ten, are found on a single bee. When we consider their great size, we cannot wonder that they soon devitalize the bees. These have done little damage except in the South of Con- tinental Europe, Cyprus and other parts of the Orient. The reason that they have not been naturalized in other parts of Europe and in America may be owing to climate, though I think more likely it is due to improved apiculture. Mr. Frank Benton, who has had much experience with these bee lice in Cyprus, writes me that the Braula is no serious pest if the bees are properly cared for. ‘‘In fact, if hives are kept clean mside, and colonies supplied wh young queens and kept strong, the damage done by the Braula is very slight if anything. In old immovable-comb hives, where the combs are black and thickened, and in case the queens are old, or where through some extraneous cause the colonies have become sweak, these lice are numerous on queensand workers. Ihave not nvticed them on the drones. Since they are found on workers as well as the oe their removal from thelatter will bricg eut temporary relief. About ten is the greatest number Enemies of Bees—Ants, Cow-Killer. 327 that I have seen on one queen. I have only thought it neces- sary to remove them in case there were three or more on a queen. The only way to remove them is ty pick them off with a knife, scissors, forceps or similar instrument. ‘They are quick-footed and glide from one place to another like the wax- moth. I hold the queen between the thumb and first finger of the left hand,and with pocket-knife or clipping-scissors shave off the parasite. It is no easy matter to get them the first time, as when you attempt their removal they glide around to the other side of the queen so adroitly that you have to turn the queen over to try again.” Mr. Benton says that it is not practicable to remove these lice by lessening the size of the en- trance to the hive. He thinks that with the attention given to bees in America, the Braula will never become a serious pest, if introduced here. ANTS. These cluster about the hives in spring for warmth, and seldom, if ever, I think, do any harm. Should the apiarist feel nervous, he can very readily brush them away, or destroy them by use of any of the fly poisons which are kept in the markets. As these poisons are made attractive by adding sweets, we must be careful to preclude the bees from gaining access to them. As we should use them in spring, and as we then need to keep the quilt or honey-board close above the bees, and as the ants cluster above the brood chamber, it is not difficult to practice poisoning. One year I tried Paris green with success. There are several reports of ants entering the hives and killing the bees; even the queen is said to have been thus destroyed. In such cases, if they occur, it is best. to put a sweet poisonous mixture in a hox and permit the ants to enter through an opening too small to admit bees, and thus poison the ants. Or we may find the ants’ nest, and with a crowbar make a hole in it, turn in this an ounce of bisulphide _of carbon, and quickly plug it up. The liquid will kill the ants. This better be done when the ants are mostly in their nest, THE COW-KILLER. This ant-like insect, Mutilla coccinea, has been sent me from Illinois and the South as far as Texas. It is a formidable 528 Enemies of Bees—Praying Mantis. enemy of the bees. The male has wings and no sting. The female has no wings, but is possessed of a powerful sting. She is an inch (25 m, m) long, very hairy, and black, except the top of her head and thorax, and a broad basal band and the tip of the upper part of her abdomen, which are bright red. A central band of black divides the red spaces of the abdomen. The entire under part of the body and all the members are black. So hard and dense is the chitinous crust of these insects, that they enter the hives fearlessly, and unmindful of stings deliberately kill the bees and feed on the young. The males are said to sting. This is certainly a mistake. The sting is a modified ovipositor—an organ not possessed by males. These insects belong to the family Mutillide, so called because the females are wingless. They are closely allied in structure to the ants, which they mucu resemble. THE PRAYING MANTIS. This strange insect I have received from Indiana and other Southern and Western States. Its scientific name is Mantis Carolina, Linn. It is very predacious, and the female has been known to eat up her mate immediately after the sexual act. No wonder that they make our friends of the hive con- tribute to their support. This insect (Fig 190) is a sort of Fic. 190. non-descript. In the South it is known as Devil’s Race- Horse. Itisacorpulent ‘‘walking-stick” with wings. In fact is closely related to our own ‘‘ walking-sticks” of the North. Its anterior legs are very curious. As it rests upon them, it ap- pears as if in the attitude of devotion, hence the name Pray- ing Mantis. It might well be preying mantis. These pecu-' Enemies of Bees—Blister Beetles. 829: liar anterior legs, like the same in Phymata erosa, are-used to” grasp its victims. It is reported to move with surprising rapid- ity, as it cael it prey. — Its eggs (Fig. 191) are glued to some twig, in a scale-like mass, and covered with a sort of varnish. Some of these ; Fia. 191. hatched out in one of my boxes, and the depravity of these insects was manifest in the fact that those first hatched fell to and ate the others. , BLISTER BEETLES. : I have received from Mr. Rainbow, of Fall Brook, Califor-, nia, the larve (Fig. 192, a) of some blister beetles, probably Mele barbarus, Lec., as that is a common species in Califor- . Fia.. 192. sey ff nia. Mr. Rainbow took as many as seven from cne worker bee. Fig. 192, 6, represents the female of Melée angusticollis, a common species in Michigan and the East. As will be seen, 330 Enemies of Bees— Wasps, Spiders. the wing covers are short, and the beetle’s abdomen fairly drags with its weight of eggs. The eggs are laid in the earth. The larve when first hatched crawl upon some flower, and as occasion permits, crawl upon a bee and tkus are borne to the hive, where they feast on eggs, honey, and pollen. These in- sects undergo what M. Faber styles hyper-metamorphosis, as the larva appears in four different forms instead of one. The Spanish fly—Cantharides of the shops—is an allied insect. Some of our common blister beetles are very destructive to plants. . WASPS. _'T have never seen bees injured by wasps. In the South, as in Europe, we hear of such depredations. I have received wasps, sent by our southern brothers, which were caught de- stroying bees. ‘The wasp sent me is the large handsome Stizus speciosus, Drury. It is black, with its abdomen imperfectly ringed with yellow. The wasps are very predacious, and do immense benefit by capturing and eating our insect pests. I have seen wasps carry off ‘‘currant-worms” with a celerity that was most refreshing. As the solitary wasps are too few in numbers to do much damage—even if they ever do any—any great damage which may occur would doubtless come from the social paper-makers. In this case, we have only to find the nests and apply the torch, or hold the muzzle of a shot-gun to the nest and shoot. This should be done at nightfall when the wasps have all gathered home. Let us not forget that the wasps do much good, and so not practice wholesale slaughter unless we have strong evidence against them. EPIDERS. / These sometimes spread their nets so as to capture bees. If porticoes—-which are, I think, worse than a useless expense ‘—are omitted, there will very seldom be any cause for com- ‘plaints against the spiders, which on the whole are friends. As the bee-keeper who would permit spiders to worry his bees would not read books, I will discuss this subject no further. THE KING BIRD—Tyrannus Carolinensis, This bird, often called the bee-martin, is one of the fly- catchers, a very valuable family of birds, as they are wholly Enemies of Bees—King-Bird, Toads, Mice. 331 insectivorous, and do immense good by destroying our insect ests. The king bird is the only one of them in the United tates that deserves censure. Another, the chimney swallow of Europe, has the same evil habit. Our chimney swallow has no evil ways. I am sure, from personal observation, that these birds capture and eat the workers, as well as drones; and I dare say, they would pay no more respect to the finest Italian queen. Yet, in view of the good that these birds do unless they are far more numerous and troublesome than 1 have ever observed them to be, I should certainly be slow to recommend the death warrant. TOADS. The same may be said of the toads, which may often be seen sitting demurely at the entrance of the hives, and lapping up the full-laden bees with the lightning-like movement of their tongues, in a manner which can but be regarded with interest, even by him who suffers loss) Mr. Moon; the well known apiarist, made this an objection to low hives; yet, the advantage of such hives far more than compensates, and with a bottom-board, such as described in the chapter on hives, we shall find that the toads do very little damage. MICE. These little pests are a consummate nuisance about the apiary. They enter the hives in winter, mutilate the comb, irritate, perhaps destroy, the bees, and create a very offensive stench. They often greatly injure comb which is outside the hive, destroy smokers, by eating leather off the bellows, and if they get at the seeds of’ honey plants, they never retreat till they make complete the work of destruction. In the house and cellar, unless they are made as they should always be—mouse propf, these plagues should be, by use of cat or trap, completely exterminated. If we winter on the summer stands, the entrance should be so contracted that mice cannot enter the hive. In case of packing as I have recommended, I should prefer a more ample opening, which may be safely secured by taking a piece of wire cloth or per- forated tin or zinc, and tacking it over the entrance, letting it come within one-fourth of an inch of the bottom-board. This will give more air, and atill preclude the entrance of these miserable vermin. 332 Enemies of Bees—Shrews. j : SHREWS. : These are mole-like animals, and look not unlike a mouse with a long pointed nose like the moles, to which they are closely related. They are insectivorous and have needle shaped teeth, quite unlike those of the Rodentia which in- cludes the true mice. I have received from Illinois and Mis- souri species of the short-tailed shrews—Blarina—which enter the hives in winter and eat the bees, only refusing the head and wings. They injure the combs but little. As they will pass through a space three-eighths of an inch wide, it is not easy to keep them out of hives where the bees are winter- ed on their summer stands. I have received a short-tailed shrew, ‘Blarina brevicauda, Gray, which was taken in the hives by Mr. Little, of Illinois. ’ oo CALIFORNIA BEE KILLER, Mr. J. D. Enas, Napa, California, has sent me specimens of. a curious bee enemy (Fig. 193) which he finds quite a serious enemy of bees. This is a Datames, possibly D. Californicus, Simon, though Fie. 193. it does not quite agree BO with the description of a that species. It belongs to the sub-class Arachnida or Spiders, and is related’ to the scorpions. The ‘group of animals are known as the Family Solpulgidee or Galeodides. As will be seen the head, thorax, and abdomen are separate, as in trueinsects. = The abdomen is long and California Bee Killer Insect. segmented, a shield-like (Jaws or falces, and posterior leg.) plate covers the head, and the eyes: are far forward, small, and.globular. The most peculiar organs are the jaws or falces, which are immense, and: armed with formidable teeth, spines, hairs, ete. The family is small, little known, and except in one case, Datames Pallipes Say, which is said to live in houses in Colorado and to feed on bed-bugs, the habits have not been described. Linemies of Bees—Bee Killer, Bee Mite. 833 Mr. Enas finds this species in his hives, killing and eating the bees. The remedy must be hand picking which will not be very difficult. tae A BEE MITE. It has long been known to chicken fanciers that our poultry often suffer serious injury from a small mite, Other mites attacked the cow, the horse, the sheep, etc. During: the past Spring .a lady bee-keeper of Connecticut q Q discovered these mites in her hives while E investigating to learn the cause of their rapid depletion. She had noticed that the colonies were greatly reduced in num- ber of bees, and upon close observation she found that the diseased or failing col- onies were covered with these mites. The strong and prosperous colonies were exempt from the annoyance. So small are these little pests that a score could ” take possession of a single bee, and not be near neighbors either. The lady states Fic. 191, that the bees roll and scratch in their vain attempts to rid themselves of these annoying stick-tights, and finally, worried out, either fall to the bottom of the hive or go forth to die outside. The bee-mite is very small, hardly more than five m. m. (1-50 of an inch) long. The female is slightly larger than the male, and somewhat transparent. The color is black, though the legs and more transparent areas of the females appear yellow- ish. REMEDIES. “The fact that what would be poison to the mite would prob- ably be death to the bees, makes this question of remedy quite a difficult one. I can only suggest what Mrs. Squire has tried —frequent changing of the bees from one hive to another, after which the hive can be freed from the mites by scalding. Of course, the more frequent the transfer the more thorough the remedy. _ I would suggest placing pieces of fresh meat, greased or ‘sugared paper, etc., in the hives in hopes to attract the pests, which when massed on these decoys could easily be killed. — 334 Calendar. CHAPTER XXI. CALENDAR AND AXIOMS. WORK FOR DIFFERENT MONTHS. Though every apiarist will take one, at least, of the several excellent journals relating to this art, printed in our country, in which the necessary work of each month will be detailed, yet it may be well to give some brief hints in this place. These dates are arranged for the Northern States, where the fruit trees blossom about the first of May. By noting these flowers, th2 dates can be easily changed to suit any local- ity. JANUARY. During this month the bees will need little attention. Should the bees in the cellar or depcsitory become uneasy, which will not happen if the requisite precautions are taken, and there comes a warm day, it were well to set them on their summer stands, that they may enjoy a purifying flight. At night when all are again quiet return them to the cellar. While out I would clean the bottom-boards, especially if there are many dead bees. This is the time to read, visit, study, and plan for the ensuing season’s work. FEBRUARY. No advice is necessary further than that given for January, though if the bees have a good fly in January, they will scarcely need attention in this month. The presence of snow on the ground need not deter the apiarist from giving his bees a flight, providing the day is warm and still. It is better to let them alone if they are quiet. MARCH. Bees should still be kept housed, and those outside still re- tain about them the packing of straw, shavings, etc. Fre- quent flights do no good, and wear out the bees. Colonies that are uneasy and besmear their hives should be set out and allowed a good flight and then returned. Calendar. 835 APRIL. Early in this month the bees may all be set out. It willbe best to feed all, and give all access to flour, when they will work at it, though usually they can get pollen as soon as they can fly out to advantage. Keep the brood chamber contract- ed so that the frames will all be covered, and cover well above the bees to economize heat. The colony or colonies from which we desire to rear queens and drones should now be fed, to stimulate breeding. By careful pruning, too, we may and should prevent the rearing of drones in any but the best colonies. If from lack of care the previous autumn, any of our stocks are short of stores, now is when it will be felt. In such cases feed either honey, sugar, or syrup, or place candy on top of the frames beneath the oil-cloth cover. MAY. Prepare nuclei to start extra queens. Feed sparingly till bloom appears. Give room for storing. Extract if necessa- ry, and keep close watch, that you may anticipate and fore- stall any attempt to swarm. ow, too, is the best time to transfer. JUNE. Keep all colonies supplied with vigorous, prolific queens. Divide the colonies as may be desired, especially enough to prevent attempts at swarming. Extract if necessary, or best, adjust frames or sections, if comb honey is desired, and be sure to keep all the white clover honey, in whatever form taken, separate from all other. Now.is the best time to Italianize. JULY. The work this month is about the same as that of June, Supersede all poor and feeble queens. Keep the, basswood honey by itself, and remove boxes or frames as soon.as full. Be sure that queens and workers have plenty of room to do their best, and do not suffer the hot sun to strike the hives. AUGUST. Do not fail to supersedeimpotent queens. Between basswood and fall bloom it may pay to feed sparingly. Give plenty of room for queen and workers, as fall storing commences, 336 Calendar. SEPTEMBER. _ Remove all surplus boxes and frames as soon as storing ceases, which usually occurs about the middle of this month ; feed sparingly till the first of October. If necessary to feed honey or sugar for winter, it should be done the last of this month. OCTOBER. Prepare colonies for winter. See that all have at least thir- ty pounds, by weight, of good, capped honey, and thatall are strong in bees. Contract the chamber by using division boards and cover well with the cloth cover and chaff cushion. If the bees are to be. packed, it should be done in October. Be sure that the frames of comb have a central hole through which the bees can pass. , % NOVEMBER, Before the cold days come, remove the bees to the cellar or depository, or place them in the clamp or earth. DECEMBER. Now is the time to make hives, honey-boxes, etc., for the coming year. Also labels for hives. These may just contain the name of the colony, in which case the full record will be kept in a book; or the label may be made to contain a full register as to time of formation, age of queen, etc., etc. Slates are also used for the same purpose. ‘ I know from experience that any who heed all of the above may succeed in bee-keeping—may win a double success—re- ceive pleasure and make money. I feel sure that many expe- rienced apiarists will find advice that it may pay to follow. it. is probable that errors abound, and certain that much re- mains unsaid, for of all apiarists it is true that what they do not know is greatly in excess of what they do know. Axioms. 337 AXIOMS. The following axioms, given by Mr. Langstroth, are just as true to-day as they were when written by that noted author: There are a few first principles in bee-keeping which ought to be as familiar to the Apiarist as the letters of the alphabet. First. Bees gorged with honey never volunteer an attack. Second. Bees may always be made peaceable by inducing them to accept of liquid sweets. Third. Bees, when frightened by smoke or by drumming on their hives, fill themselves with honey and lose all disposi- tion to sting, unless they are hurt. Fourth. Bees dislike any quick movements about their hives, especially any motion which jars their combs. Fifth. In districts where forage is abundant only for a short period, the largest yield of honey will be secured by a very moderate increase of stocks. ixth. A moderate increase of colonies in any one season, will, in the long run, prove to be the easiest, safest, and cheapest mode of managing bees. Seventh. Queenless colonies, unless supplied with a queen, will inevitably dwindle away, or be destroyed by the bee-moth, or by robber-bees. Eighth. The formation of new colonies should ordinarily be confined to the season when bees are accumulating honey; and if this, or any other operation, must be performed when forage is scarce, the greatest precautions should be used to prevent robbing. . The essence of all profitable bee-keeping is contained in Oettl’s Golden Rule: KEEP youR stocks stroNG. If you cannot succeed in doing this, the more money you invest in bees, the heavier will be your losses; while, if your stocks are strong, you will show that you are a bee-master, as well as a bee-keeper, and may safely calculate on generous returns from your industrious subjects. ‘‘Keep all colonies strong,” GENERAL INDEX. acpteas ‘PAGE ABC of Bee Culture umeanersiinwes 12 Acacia 265 Albino Bees... ..... 387 Alighting i aaa 126 figure of. ..... - 126 tenn of .. time of bloom changed Amateur Bee-keepers ..... American Bee Journal. 9 Anatomy and i sacar Yes 43 of bees... re 66 of insects... 43 Anatomy of insects... 43 external ............. 43 internal Antenne of insects.......cccceeees 46 use 0: AT, 49 ADS wesisessissesessacceveoses enemies of bees... 327 fondness for plant Tiee. 251. APathus....ceceeee Ssidadeiees 29 Apiary— arrangement of. 152 grape vine...... 153 figure of _ location of... - - position of starting an.. Apiary grounds. arrangement of. for each colony. 153 APIdeETe .....esrecsrcersees 25 description of. 26 larva Of..........- 26 parasites among... Apis... Apis dorsata a 32 ~ nativity of. . 34 search for. we 82 Aristotle 39 Arthropoda 20 Articulate animals, 19 Artificial increase 190 Asparagus ... 285 Asters........ 289 — figure of 289 Axioms peniea 336 _ * Bacon ‘Beetlenmaee 317 Banana Barberry NUL OF esivisssiccrssacccscssareyscen Bark louse figure of........ how to destroy............ Barrels waxing Basil—Mt. Mint.. Bass-wood figure of. Bee Books (see books)... Bee bread (see pollen). Bee glue {see prop rlis)... Bee hawk. 824 Bee house. 5 figure of 306 for winter.. 300 Bee-keepers Exchange. 1l Bee-keepers’ Guide. 11 ago manana! and Poultry J our- wee Pcsine re re ene ‘ how to commence.. form a plan... get bees.......... kind of hives.. kind to buy.. 11d price to pay... 116 when to buy. 115 where to locate.. as to forage... as to market as to society... inducements to.. w 2 adaptation to amateurs... 5 adaptatio to women...... 5 aes wealth to the coun- dasavsas van dccstes cose eae ceee 8 excellent as an avoca- . Peer eerretrerrerr eee errr 2 excellent for mental oul- ture 7 furnishes good food. 7 profits from.. 3 recreation .... 2 requirements for successful. 8 aid from associations.... 9 aid from books and par PCTS......c000 9 experience. 8 enthusiasm .. 14 mental effort 8 PETSISTEICE uieercseccsseserceee 15 Chloroform to introduce queen. to quiet bees...... Circulatory organs.. Clamps for winterin Clark cold draft smok figure Of..... scsessseeens Class of the honey-bee Clipping queens... why done.... HOW GONE ....sesssenveees White. Cold draft smoker. figure Of............c008 Colonies— * NOW tO MOVE ....sscceesereveressseene Cover— for frames figure of... function of . how to fasten. figure of.... . 160 why opaque... 106 Comb-box or basket. 211 figure of. 211 Comb foundation... 226 American 227 figure of .. . 226 history of . 226 machines. 227 apparatus for procuring.. desirable fumigation of high priced... how secured..... marketing of. 243 te rules for... 248 . shipping crate for... 244 stored before shipping........... 217 Comb stands 200 Valentine’s..... figure of ... Conventions aid mark valuable figure ‘of. Cow killer. importation of .. points of superiority... pamphlet of Dalmatian Bees. Dandelion .. Dividing Division boards figure of of perforated zinc figure of.... Dollar Queens rearing of Doolittle—income from bees figure of. mating of.. organs of .. figure of .. pure if queen is... ooo Dunham ee Speen machine... figure of ....... ‘ Dysentery ... Dzierzon theory 0: 7 Dzierzon’s red Bee- “kéep- 4 Ing.. Eggs of insects... development of... figure of Egyptian Bees Enemies of bees BUS cccsessvegavetsaeye bacon beetles. bee hawks... bee killers... blister beetles cow killer.... king bird. louse ......... meal beetle.. mice... moth... praying mantis shrews... spiders... stinging bug. tachina fly...... toads asps Entompiogical books... Eyes of insects... figure of. Extracted honey. granulation of. prevented. reduced... how kept. marketing... rules for ripening of. tin cans for. vessels for... figures of.. Extracting and the extractor)... 205 Extractor (see honey extractor). 206 figure of. 206 wax (see wax extractor) .. 236 Fabricius EP AIYS ii ssssasarcennccreceoess exhibiting at. effect of... figure of. Family Apide ....... Family of Honey Bee. Feeders od can Close bottom board for: division board... figure of.... Shuck’s .... figure of.......... Heedin; ACAUTIOR LN scxscesacarvonnvonce how muc how done. in winter.... reason for......... what ............ eisceses és Female organs figure of. Fertile workers.. Fig wort ..........s000 California z PQ u Te O8. sccccsecnescesccssteawscsecdacas 280 Fire weed Food. Foot power Saw. Barnes’. Foreign books and papers.., Apiary, or Bees and Bee Gul: ure Bee Keepers’ Guide Book...... British Bee Journal... Manual of Bee Keeping Modern Bee Keeping. Rational Bee Keeping... oH Fossil honey comb......... .. 106 figure of Foul brood cause remedy symptoms. Foundation...... American.. sutters figure Of... figure of history of.. how cut how fastened how made......... in wired fraines. use of in brood frames........ s+ in sections.... se wax sheets for. how made. Fountain pump......... Frames cover for. 291 164, 295 see 150 guide for making - figure of.. how made. Langstroth ... figure of... large 4 QUALITY ce scaecsechocscccsseasssicisesicuech 130 Index. PAGE PAGE FUE Of... cescecscsreseesseeees BO NEW 102 v.ccerseee .. 147 uniform 181 | not a aan 118 wiring 133 observing.... 141 figure of... Genus apis species of Genus of the Honey Bee... Geoffrey... German Bees Gill or ground ivy .. Given press figure of ate figure of .. two story... figure Of. Glands of insects. .... 18 Gleanings in Bee Culture... Hivingswarms... 3 Gloves figure of 186 Glucose Honey .. 99 Golden honey plant.... ee as food.. 7 Golden rod...... changed nectar.. 100 figure of. composition of.. Good candy.... granulated ...... how to melt.. Grapes and Bees... G test of purity.. um— blue ripening of... red source of.... 3 Honey -comb Handling Bees fossil ....... rules for. figure o. Harbison Honey extractor great honey yield of.. wae A how to use. Heathe~ington ............. 4 modern...... honey secured by 4 figure of, Head of insects..... 43 origin of..... - organs of... 43 styles of labium... 43 use of...... JAWS oc ee ccesee ee wire attachmen . figure of. a figure of.. . 207 maxille.... 45 | Honey knives. figures of... ae antenne. Honey locust... 275 Hearing of insects Heart of impacts wee Heath Bees., figure of 277 Hexapoda. Hives Honey vinegar .. Horehound. Horse mint figure of... House apiary.. OX weecesees Huber hive......... cover of... DeBeauvoy’s. gure of.. Dzierzon ... Quinby style. early frame.. _ figure of.. entrance to.. Hunting bee trees. height of... Hymenoptera... Huber....... highest of insects. Langstroth .... PATASILIC. 0... seeecoesrees figure of..... Ichneumon files.... Indian ¢ 1rrant Indian plantain movable comb .. Index. Imago of insects........ increase of colonies dividing... to prevent. Iron weed ae Insecta... 20 insects... < Instinct in bees and ants. Intestines Of bee.........0 . Italians uuperietien of.. origin of... superior. Italianizing.... Japan privet.. Jars for hon Kansas bee keeper. 11 Kegs for honey. 242 figure of. 242 King bird .... 330 Longstroth on the honey DEC wave Larva of insects ..... 2: figures of... 63, 64 Latreille....... ~ 41 Leach 42 Legs of inSeCtS... ve ccecsresceersseee 51 figure of. 21, 89 Lepidoptera... 24 Ligurian (see ‘talian)..: 35 Linneus. 259 Liver leaf. honey.. « 275 figure of. « 277 Locust borer... x remedy for TMPING iss vsvsissrssasveseses Lyonnet Magnolia ....escessssseseneene figure of ... Mailing queens.... Male organs. GOULC Of sissivssticasssssssisiveccesessaies Mangrove 286 DIACK ce seecsecseser ences scaetexeusieees . 286 true 288 TSMC OF vacscaserinansccncersrsarscicncerss 2OU Malva 285 PAGE Manual of of bee keeping......... secre 1B AD ZOD s .cc..sicscvessssreesons iistecsavese 261 Maples... wo00e209, 261 sugar.. wee 261 figure of.. » 258 Marketing .......... .. 239 bees by the pound...... how caged. 246 figures of. comb honey.. crates for. kept for.. praparstian for.. extracted honey. rules for.. Mason bees... Mating of queen. only once on wing Matrimony vine. Meal. feeding of... Meal beetle.. ... Megachiie MelipOna .......seeceseseeree Seseseeed Modern Bee Keeping . MOILUSES «1... eeseeces eee Moth (see bee ao Motherwort .. figure of time of bloom changed. ses Mountain laurel.... Mouth organs.. variable..... Movable frame hives. Munn hi Muth C. F.. Myriapods.. Mysteries of Bee Keeping.. Natural History of Bee.............. . 19 Nectar 249 from bark lice.... : from cotton... from cow pea... figure of.. 253 249-4 250 253 52 29 172 172 ae forme 3 173 Nursery... 176 lamp... 176 queen.. cvenseasanan LOO Observing Hive... scene figure of. TAscsvrvess figure o Order of honey Osmia.. Packing box... ure of.... Pails for honey. 241 figure of. Bee-Keeper’s “xchange, Bee-Keeper’s Guide Bee and Poultry Journ British Bee Journal... Gleanings in Bee Culture.. Kansas Bee-Keeper... Parasitic Bees ...... Parthenogenesis.. seer in ants and wasp: . 74 true of drones......... 74 true of plant lice. 74 Partridge pea. . 275 figure of... .» 276 Perforated zinc... 216 division board of. wee 147 figure o: . 146 SE OF.....,..20004 216 Periodicals (see papers 9 Persimmon.......... 265 zing: of queen 98 Plant lice ....... . 250 apple tree. figure of.... asparagus...... asters . PAGE figure o1 289 banana. 265 barberry 262 figure 262 basil........ 285 bass-wood . 278 figure of 279 begear ticks..... benefited by Re bergamont... 284 blackberry. 275 black gum. 265 blood root..... 259 gill, ground i ivy... * golden honey plant. golden rod 288 grapes........ 253 gum, blue an 225: honey lucust.......... 275 honey Oisonous.. . 285 horehound......... 271 Indian currant.. . 291 Indian plantain. . 285 irom weed........ . 285 Japan privet. . 265 Juda. tree..... . 261 260 re 275 275 275 277 278 286 286 . 288 . 287 a -» 285 Manzanita ~. 261 maples. ... 9, 2F1 sugar . 261 258 figure of.. 271 time of bloom Shanged:s "972 mountain laurel .. mustards.... partridge pea. figure of. persimmon.. poplar P' figure of. raspberry ... rattle-snake weed.. rocky Mt. bee plant. . 283 gure of... via 201, Sage... i .262, 271 black... weve 262 figure of . 263 white........... <- 262 figure of. . 264 saw palmetto... . 266 skunk cabbage. . 259 sour wood, sorrel tree.. . 285 figure 6 . 284 spider plant. . 291 figure of... . 290 St. Joan’s Wort. . 285 stone crop . 276 sumac....... 5 California . 262 sun-flower.. 289 figure of. . 289 sweet clover.. 267 figure of 269 teasel ........... 275 figure of. . 275 tick-seed .. . 289 tulip tree.. 274 figure of. 274 varnish tree.. 265 verbena-vervain. . 285 viper’s bugloss.... 285 Virginia creeper 285 wheat. ...... 253 white clover . 266 figure of. . 266 WIA PLU. 0s. .sseessorrsneceseenee 274 Pliny... Plum—wild.............. aivnbneistat Poisonous honey.. Pollen—bee-bread. how collected . how carried.. function of. source of... substitute for.. Pollen baskets. Pollen masses’. figure of milkweed. Poplar Praying Mantis... oO pollen... propolis. Profits. vf bee-keeping.. Propolis function of. how collected.. soluble in... source of. Protozoa....... Pupa of insects... figure of, Queen...... clipping wing Of. development of . cause of.. time for.. drone eggs from eyes of fecundity of. figure of.. food of... from fecundated egg.. function of... how caged.. in sections. introduction of.. longevity of .... mating of... how controlled. entrance guar figure of.. marketing of....... aided by fairs... figure of.., ovaries of..... figures of. rearing of .... how done.. why important..... Index. sent by mail... shipping of..... reparation for. sterility of..... 17 sting of...... 68 tongue of.. 68 figure of.. 67 when active. 78 where to obtain 201 young virgin........ 176 easily introduced pisses “ie Queen cage. — 197 figure of. Queen cell... transferrin; figure of.. Queen rearing. lamp nursery for.... select carefully why n ry. Queen register... diagram of.. 1 ware Mysteries of ARORA 0 Quinby*s Smoker .. figure of............ Races of bees black or German... Carniolan Herzegovinian .......... Italian or Ligurian. Smyrnian. pberry. Rational Bee-Keeping. Rattle-snake root......... ee ce organs.. ure Of. Robber flies figures of... Robbing.......... remedies for... when to expect... Rocky Mountain bee-plant. figure Of ..........008 when to plant Royal jelleYecseccesees- PAGE Sage (see white and black es ee .. 262, a6 Saw flies ....... 25 Saw Palmetto .. 266 Saw table..... 161 figure of. . 161 Scraper....... 180 figure of Secretory organs.. figure of.. Sections........ adjustment of. fumigating... we 248 getting bees from. .. 217 getting Hees into. 189, 216 glassing .... ees in crates . vod reo 148, 149 in frames.. . 145 figure of. 147, 148 nailed ........ . 144 figure of. 144 one piece... . 144 dent of 144 one pound. . 144 gure of 144 prize .......... 144 figure of 144 removal of.... 217 separators for.. 148 figure of.. 143 smal veneer block for making. . 142 figure of . . 142 Sense in insects. 47 hearing .. 4T smell... Separators . tin figure of wee hed Shade for bees. : evergreens. 153 ZLOVE.... ee . 153 ETAPES VINE cicicccsiscwcsevecsetsivesecce 153 figures of. 154, 155 Shipping....... -- 202 colonies » 204 queens. .. 202 Shrews....... .. 832 Sir John Lubbock 47, 48 hearing in ant) ete. Skunk cabbage.... Smell in insects. Smoker Bingham 221 prevented... 387 | Sweet clover.... 285 figure of... 284 | Syrian bees ..... ee importation Spermatneca ............. 60 superior how. discovery of ... 60 fu.ction of . 60 | Tachina fly ... Spider plant... 291 figure of. figure of. .. 290 | Tailor bee... Spiders......... 22, 330 cells of Spring dwin 804 | Teasel...... preventive .... 304 figure Of............... Starting an apiary. 113 | Telephone to warn of sw Sterile queens ..... 77 | Test for DONEY.........cessssecesceeece eee Sting of worker 89 | Thorax figure of.... 90 muscles of how used figure of Stinging bug organs of. 50 figure of ... legs .. 51 Stingless bees .. wings. 50 Stings— Tick seed.......... . 289 how to cure.. 223 | Toads . 831 how to prevent.... 21 45 bee tent.. 3 68 bee veil.. 67 chloroform . 84 dress for ladi 85 gloves.... 21 smoke .. figure of... 21 St. John’s wort Stomach of insects. Stone crop........... Storing side to Sub-class of insects Sub-class of the honey-bee .. Strong colonies.... how secured... imperative to Transferring. Hedaon’s way. old method complete ....... incomplete .. Trigona Tulip AGULS Of ccc auninaniennaae 200 | VaTRIsh Tet cancnannwiinceicen 260 Swarming... Veil : 219 abnormal. figure of. cut short.. Verbena-vervain .. . 285 preparatio Viallon candy.... .. 203 prevented....... Viper’s bugloss - 285 undesirable.... Virgin queens. . 73 when it occurs rone layers.. 73, 74 why it occurs. Virginia creeper.... . 285 Swarming fever... Vinegar 246 prevented how......... Virgi 39 es manipulation.... eddon’s method 215 | Wasps 830 Miller’s method. 215 101, 235 Swarmmerdam wonee! ax... ’ COMPOSITION Of vscseesuseeee 102 EXPENSIVE... cesses 10: from carbohydrates .. ‘ pockets .......... - 101 figure of . 101 save all........ 235 how done 236 scales........... 101 figure of... - 101 secretion voluntary ‘ Wax extractor......... figure of ‘Wings of bees.. 80 ‘ure of... 30 insects 50 White sage.. 262 figure of 264 Winterin, moist atmosphere in Liye 294 old bees PAGE proper temperature......... 296 ow secured . 296 Wire for foundation... » 285 Wistaria ..........000 . 261 American . 261 figure of « 261 Chinese ....... . 261 figure of.......... » 262 Women as bee-keepers ww 5 Worker bees ............. ave 88 development of we 92 figure of.......... 83 food of larve........ from impregnated egg.. function of.... old bees 95 youn 95 glands of..... 86 figure of 87 how they sip . 86 Jaws of.. 88 figure 88 legs of.... 88 figure 89 longevity of. 94 mouth parts 0 84 sometimes ferti 83 sting of..... 89 gure 0: 90 tongue of.. figure of.... very numerous... Worms 93 in bee house .. 00 in cellar.......... 801 in chaff hives w+» 298 figure of 133, 299 method of wt. 299 in clamps 303 SALE ..cossereeee 294 requisites for . 294 good honey. 295 late breeding... Xylocopa WNC rscssvesven cvavssanewe ‘ PETLOTALE .0...csscsrserecsnesseesees THE BEEKEEPERS’ GUIDE —OoR— MANUAL OF THE APIARY. By A. J. COOK, Lansing. Michigan, Prof. of Entomology in the State Agricultural College. 9,000 SOLD IN SIX YEARS. 3650 PAGES, 192 ILLUSTRATIONS. This is a new edition of Prof. Cook’s Manual of the Apiary, enlarged and ele- gantly illustrated. The first edition of 3,000 copies was exhausted in about 138 months—a sale unprecedented in the annals of bee-culture, The tenth 1,000 has been thoroughly revised, much new matter and many costly illustrations added, and has been produced with great care, patient study,and persistent research. It comprisesa full delineation of the anatomy and physiology of the honey bee, illustrated with many expensive wood engrav- ings; the People of the honey bee; the races of bees; full descriptions of honey-producing plants, trees, shrubs, etc., splendidly illustrated; and last, though not least, detailed instructions for the various manipulations necessary in the apiary. THE 10TH 1,000 SOLD 1N FOUR FOUR MONTHS. Read the following opinions of the book; I believe yours the best practical work in the world.—L. L. Langstroth, I feel like thanking God that we have such a man as Prot. Cook to take hold of the subject of bee-culture in the masterly way in which he has done it.— Gleanings in Bee Culture. It isa book which does credit to our calling; one that every bee-keeper may welcome asa fit exponent of the science which gives pleasure to all who are engaged in it.—American Bee Journal. 1t is just what might have been expected from the distinguished author—a work acceptable to the ordinary bee-man, and a delight to the student of scien- tific apiculture.— Bee- Keepers’ Mugazine, Cook’s new “Manual of the Apiary” comes with high encomiums from America, and certainly it appears to have cut the ground trom under future book-mukers for some time to come.—British Bee Journal. Prof. A. J. Cook’s “ Manual of the Apiary” contains, besides the description of the anatomy and physiology of the honey bee, beautifully illustrated, the products and races of the bees, honey plants—the instructions for the «differ. ent operations performed inthe hives. All agree that it 1s the work of a Master, and is of real value.—L’Apiculleur, Paris. I have read with a goou «eal of interest the copy of Cook’s Manual you sent me, and TI intend to publish extracts from it in the “ Bulletin” of the Society of Apiculture of the Department of the Somme, so that our apiarists may be aware of the value of this estimable work. It is a credit to the author as well as the publishers, I have never yet met with a work, either French or foreign, which I like so much.—L’Abbe L. DuBois, at La Malmaison, Aisne, France. Every point connected with the subject is handled in a clear, exhaustive, yet pithy and practical manner.— Rural New Yorker. The most thorough work on the apiary ever published, and the only one illustrating the various bee plants.—Lunsing (Mich.) Republican. Treating the art in all its different branches in a clear, concise, and interest- ing manner.—The Cunadian Entomologist. fi is the fullest, most practical, and most satisfactory treatise on the subject now before the public.—Country Gentleman. I have derived more practical knowledge trom Prof. Cook’s new Manual of the Apiary than from any other book.—E H. WyNKvuopP, . With Cook’s Manual Lam more than pleased. It is fully up with the times in every particular. The richest reward awaits its author.—A. E. WENZEL. We have perused with great pleasure this vude mecum of the bee-keeper. It is replete with the best information on everything belonging to apiculture. To all taking an interest in this subject, we say, obtain this valuable work, read it carefully, and practice as advised.—Aygriculturist, Quebec. I regard it as the best work on bees in the world.—P. L. VIALLON, It is so greatly superior to all the other works, that 1 recommend no other.— D, A. JONES. 4 : ; Price, by mail, $1.25. Liberal discount made to dealers, and to newspapers who may desire to send it as a premium. A. J. COOK, Lansing, Michigan, Author and Publisher. NEW YORK TRIBUNE. 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It recognizes Agriculture as one of the great industries of the country, and prints more information of value to farmers than any other daily paper. THE TRIBUNE has always been, and is, a warm advocate of the development of American industry, for the sake of strengthening the Republic, employing the whole population, giving a chance to all young men, and filling the coun- try with peaceful and happy homes, To the working teacher of American common schools, THE TRIBUNE is a con- stant friend and daily help. It advocatesan increase of pay to teachers. Inall that will promote the efficiency and advance the dignity of the common-school system, it will be a cheerful and faithful worker. THE SEMI- WEEKLY TRIBUNE has nearly all the news of the DAILY, and is, in some respects, the best, as well as the cheapest paper sent out from THE TRIB- UNE Office. It contains all of the literary, agricultural, and domestic miscellany, and all the special articles prepared for THE WEEKLY. It has besides most of its editorial articles not strictly local intheirapplication. Itis preted in sixteen. page form. It isimmeasurably the most successtul Semi- Weekly in the country. THE WEEKLY TRIBUNE has the largest circulation of its class in the United States. Each week it contains a summary of all of the news of the world in such shape that busy men can read and enjoy. It has the letters giving the best news from foreign lands, and from time to time others describing the resources, attractions, and pursuits of different portions of the United States. It hasa strong agricultural department, good market reports, and pages written for the benefit of ladies, giving accurate instructions in knitting, crochet, and kindred subjects. It also prints every year several good novels and stories, the cost of which in book form would be several dollars. A strong point of the paper is that it is printed in large, plain type, suited to the eyes of studious readers. To those willing to form clubs for THE TRIBUNE, circulars, show bills, and sample copies of the paper will be sent in any desired quantity. TERMS. THE WEEKLY TRIBUNE.—A single copy, one year, $2.00; five copies, one year $1.50 each; ten copies, one year, $1.00 each. THE SEMI-WEEKLY TRIBUNE.—Single copy, one year, $3,00; five copies, one year, $2.50 each; ten copies, one year, $2.00 each. THE DAILY TRIBUNE, eerie ae Sunday edition, is $12 per year, $3 for three months, $1.20 for one month. ithout the Sunday edition, $10 per year, $2.50 for three months, $1 forone month. The Sunday edition alone is $2 per year. Remit by draft or money order. If the cash is sent it should always be by registered letter. Address THE TRIBUNE, New York. GLEANINGS — IN— BEE CULTURE. Terms, $1.00 per Year. GLEANINGS is a 52-page monthly, published the first of each month. _A supplement, JUVENILE GLEANINGS, of 16 pages, is published the middle of each month, thus giving reports semi-monthly of the state of Bee Culture in almost all regions of the globe where civilization extends. A BC OF BEE CULTURE. ~ A Book of 318 pages, and over 175 illustrations. This is kept stand. ing in type, and corrected several times a year; thus, when you buy it you are sure of a book that is up with the times. Price, in cloth, $1.25; in paper, $1.00. APIARIAN ) MPLEMENTS AND PUPPLIES. Our customers now number something over 75,000; and goods are shipped to all parts of the world. To keep pace with late improve- ments and new inventions, our price list is kept constantly standing in type, and new editions are printed in the busy season, frequently as often as onve a mouth. A sample copy of GLEANINGs anda ree sent free on apP ication. ¢ A. I. ROOT, MeEpiInA, OHIO. J. VAN DERVORT, Practical A .-piarist, AND MANUFACTURER OF Comb Foundation Machines LACHY VILLE, PA. Brood Chamber, te It Has No Superior. 10 AND 12-IN. MILT Wil make from five to seven square feet for Tenbi7 ON SVT 71 ey suoly : “999 OJ Jody OLUNDS OADM} 07 ud} WoOIy OHV TTA Tr'IIWt ETONI-9S Hamitton, Hancock Co., Ill, August 21, 1883. We make all our thn and extra thin foundation on Vandervort machines, and have sold over ten thousand pounds of it this year. We consider this machine the best in the world for surplus foundation. CHAs. Dapant & Son. -- ST GT WIinbLson, Breeder of Italian Queens, MORTONSVILLE, WOODFORD CO., KY. BAH NE S’°S —SPATENT =. Foot- Power Machinery. COMPLIES COUDEIITS, With which Builders, Cabinet Makers, Wagon Makers, and Jobbers in Miscellaneous Work can compete as to Quality and Price with Steam-Power Machinery. WILL SEND MACHINES ON TRIAL IF DESIRED. Every Bee-Keeper should have an Outfit from these Machines. for Hive-Making. iniiireemneaca = = tie = it IM a LITT ‘Aynjyooedsayy ‘amy fisana 9710 92 fins nok 77) op 114m ‘MES SIT} FIA [[@ II Op 03 qoodxa pur ‘vyeuU 09 ‘049 ‘SoATY -00q JO JUMOWE oY} e[QNOP eAeY om TOIUTA SIH, “YIOM ToYyO MT ‘profyoowy “soig sauswg “sussapy ‘KN ‘woyieyQ ‘ENaUVg ‘I “fe Jo [vop yeoIs v pue ‘saxog Avuo0Y 000'Z ‘soueIy proiqg OOgG ‘syout x ‘'N ‘NOLIYVHD Aauoy OOL ‘sdvo youl-, yA seaTy Yeyo og ‘19qUIM 4seT ‘seuryo -vtUl peuIquiod anoA Jo 90 YIM 4NO 4nd 9AA—‘NEWATINGY WT We will send our Illustrated Catalogue FREE on application. Say where you read this, and address . W. F. éd JOHN BARNES, No. 2094 Main Street, Rockfoid, Winnebago Co., Ill, SOMETHING NEW. THE FIRST BOOK PUBLISHED ON QUEEN-REARING, — THE — Bee-Keeper’s Handy-Book; — oR — Twenty-Two Years’ Experience in Queen-Rearing. HENRY ALLEY, WENHAM, MASSACHUSETTS, Price, by Mail, in Cloth, $1.25 per Copy. This work is intended to teach my New Method of Queen-Rearing; it also gives my experience during the past Twenty-Five Years as a Practical Bee-Keeper, Twenty-two of which have been devoted to Queen-Rearing. The work is so WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED That any Bee-Keeper may understand the method given. It contains The Easiest, Simplest, Nearest to the Natural, and Most Scientific athod of Queen-Rearing, By which . THE SELLS ARE $O UNIFORMLY BUILT AWB SPASED os That each can be removed without injury to its neighboring cell, and a larger number of first-class cells produced with a given quaniiy, of bees, than by any other process, and WITH LESS LABOR AND EXPENSE. It also contains new and yaluable hints and ideas; and one of the best descriptions of . THE NEW RACES OF BEES Yet given to the public; also, an essay on the best method of managing the 5 ‘Apiary in order to obtain the Largest Amount of Surplus Honey, Including preparing and marketing the same, by one of the most promi- nent, practical, and successtul ‘ Bee-Masters” in the country. This essay alone is worth ten times the price of the book. Enclose the money in the presence of the Postmaster, at my risk, 4a Send for Prospectus and Circular. ALFRED H. NEWMAN, DEALER IN ALL KINDS OF SEEDS for HONEY PLANTS SUCH AS Melilot, White and Alsike Clovers, Mammoth a poster tleome, Mustard, etc. Tin Pails for Marketing Honey. Bee Keepers Supplies INCLUDING Kegs for Extracted Honey, The Excelsior Honey Extractors, Comb Foundation—all styles, Bee Hives—nailed and flat, Sections, Crates and Frames, Smokers, Honey Knives, Bee Veils, Gloves, etc. Gs SEND FOR MY NEW ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE. 23 928 West Madison Street, CHICAGO, ILL. The Only Weekly Bee Paper in the World THE OLDEST BEE PERIODICAL IN AMERICA. AmericanBee Journal TWO EDITONS—WEEKLY AND MONTHLY. Weekly, $2 a year; Monthly, $1 a year, in advance, Three or Six Months at the same rate. A Sample Copy of either free upon application. THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL, established in 1861 as a Monthly, was, in 1881, also issued Weekly, and has not only fully sustained its former reputation, butis always advancing progressive ideas upon the various topics of Bee-Culture. It is the most Thoroughly Practical Publication on Bees in the World, The most successful and experienced Bee-Keepers in the World comprise its Corps of Contributors. As an Advertising Medium it is Unsurpassed. . THOMAS G NEWMAN, EDITOR AND PROPRIETOR, 925 WEST MADISON STREET, CHICAGO, ILL. The New England A piarian, PUBLISHED BY WMA. VM. MERRIDnG. Pablication Day, 15th of Each Month. P. O, Box, 100. MECHANIC FALLS, MAINE. Terms, 75 Cents per Year, in Advance. LIBERAL INDUCEMENTS TO AGENTS. DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF THOSE ENGAGED IN BEE-CULTURE, Each number: containing articles of rare interest from the pens of eminent men, among whom may be mentioned JAMES HEDDON, A. J. COOK, DR. McLAUGHLIN, J. E, POND. Jr., J. B, MASON, G. W. DEMAREE, ‘W. W. DUNHAM, E. A. THOMAS, W. HOYT, ETC. Making each number instructive, rich, and racy in matters pertaining to the fascinating profession of tie Apiarist. Being the only. journal of the kind in the New England States, ie offers the very best medium for adver isers to reach the many who art more or less engaged in busine'ss of supp ying the markets with honey. The editor solicits questions and discussions that may tend to the advancement of light upon any of the interests or work of the Apiari t, and hopes by untiring zeal to wake THE NEw ENGLAND APIARIAN a welcome guest to the miny homeso those engaged in Bee Cu ture in the New England States and in many homes in more remote regions. Will be pleased to ser'd sample copies to any who may desire, as well as to receive YOUR subscription for one year. All communications, etc., should be addressed to Ww. W. MERRILL, MEcHANIO Faurts, Mainz. MUTH’S HONEY EXTRACTOR! All Metal, Always Ready, Easily Cleaned, Everlasting. i : i. | a ‘i e iit MUTH’S GLASS HONEY JARS. My one und two-pound square Honey Jars have now been tested for years, and have not only found favor among dealers and consumers, but are also the most practical and best jars in the market, all points considered, and require no recommendation. As jars of honey are generally bought for table use, the best honey only should, be bottled A neat label on each jar, with the produc— er’s name plainly printed, will often serve asa reminder Lo the consumer of the place where the last nice honey was pure hased. @ CHARLES F, MUTH, No. 976 Central Avo, CINCINNATI, 0. Muth’s Uncapping Knife. &£@> Send 10 Cents for “Practical Hints to Bee-Keepers.” Circulars Free. HEADQUARTERS IN THE SOUTH —-For the Manufacture and Sale of—— BEER PEPE Ro Ss UPPELES. The Only Steam Factory of Bee Hives in the South. COMB FOUNDATION, MADE ON ROOT AND DUNHAM MILLS. ITALIAN BEES AND QUEENS A SPECIALTY, All bred from Imported Mothers of a own Importations. For further particulars, send for my Illustrated Catalogue. P. L. VIALLON, Bayou Goula, La. BEES AND QUEENS. I will Mail my 20-page Price List of Italian, Cyprian, and Holy Land Bees and Nuclei Colonies, . Either in the American or Langstroth Frame, CHOICE TESTED, WARRANTED, AND DULLAR QUEENS AND APIARIAN, SUPPLIES, To all who send me their name and address written plainly ona postal. H. H. BROWN, Light Street, Col. Co, Pa. ELE ADQUARTERS —FOR— PURE ITALIAN QUEENS, COLONIES and NUCLEI, Extractors, Bellows-Smokers, Knives, Foundation Veils, Gloves, Bee Books, Sample Hive, ete. Being only 2 hours from San Francisco, my facilities for shipping Colonies by sea cannot be equaled, Can superintend all Colonies on board Steamer at han Francisco, if required, For particulars and Price List, address J. D. ENAS, Sunnyside, Napa P. 0., Cal. BEE-KAEEPERS oi WISTILIIT Gio THE BEST BEE- SMOKERS AND HONEY KNIVES Are referred to pages 208 and 221 this volume, with request to send card for circular to BINGHAM & HETHERNGTON, Abronia, Mich. GIVEN’S FOUNDATION PRESS, Public sentiment affirms, that the Press is Superior for making Comb Founda” tion, either in wired frames or for Sections, and insures ' straight and perfect combs, when drawn out by the bees. Send for circular and samples, D. 8. GIVEN & CO., HOOPESTON, ILL. See page 229 of this volume. G. H. KNICKERBOCKER, Pine Plains, Dutchess Co., N. ¥-s ——DEALER IN— APIARIAN SUPPLIES. Given Comb Foundation a Specialty, — AND BREEDER OF— HOLY LAND AND ITALIAN QUEENS (Second to none). Highest Price paid for Pure Bees-Wax. Send for Circular before ordering elsewhere, it will pay you to do so. FTRIOBN DS! If you are in any way interested in. BEES or HONEY We will, with pleasure, send you a sample copy of our Monthly Gleanings in Bee Culture With a Descriptive Price List of the latest improvements in HIVES, HONEY EXTRACTORS, ARTIFICIAL COME, SECTION HONEY BOXES, All Books and Journals, and Everything Pertaining to Bee Cultare, INOWELING PATENTED. Simply send your address on a poftal card, written plainly, to A. IL ROOT, Medina, Ohio. DUNHAM FOUNDATION MACHI = S DUNHAM, DUNHAM COMA FOUNDATION MACHINE, x Inventor and Sole Manufacturer of the FRANCE DEPERE, BROWN COUNTY, WIS. Your machines are undoubtedly the very best in existence for heavy foun- dation. | CHARLES DADANT & SON, November auth, 1882, Hamilton, Tl. ‘; I send you samples of foundation which Tam manufacturing on one of your machines, in sheets ¥xi8, whieh measure 1134 feet to the pound, J think it superior loany samples of thin foundativn L have seen. August lith, 1882. J. G., WHITTEN, Genoa, Wis. I have manufactured tens of thousands of pounds of foundation on the Dunham machine and find that if does its work exeeedingly well—thus far I have found none that will beat it. The bees accept aud work out the founda. tion from this machine much more readily and with more satisfaction than with any [ have yet tried, L have also made with it foundation for section boxes, fully as light, or lighter than any others, J have no-interest in the Dube ham machine, and thee mument I can find its superior I shall purehase one and discard my olt machine, D. A, JONES, Beeton, February loth, 1833, POMONA APIARIES, AUGUSTA, GHORGIA. J. BP- Hl. BROWW, PROPRIETOR. Imported and Home-bred Italian Queens; Nuclei and Full Colonies. Bees FOR PURITY and FOR BUSINESS... Dunham and Vandervort Foundations manufactured from PURE BEESWAX— wholesale and retatl—cut to any desired size, If you want Hives, Smokers, or Apiariun Supplies of any kind, send for catalogue and price-list, OUR Naw SMOKER Is the result of combining the desirable points of all previous smokers, including our own, and yet rendering it simple and im- possible to get out of order. The fire barrel is so made as to withstand pressure or knocks without changing the shape. The nozzle fits firmly and yet goesoneasily. Riveting is used in place of solder. The draft is perfect. The smoker is very strong, yet light. The bellows is French tanned Jeather. The workmanship throughout is the best. Our representations are confirmed by the most practical bee-keepersin the United States, who give it their unqualined en- dorsement. We will give a few names: ; “T like it very much, after giving ita thorough trial.”-G. "M. Doolittle. ‘“‘Your new smoker.proves to be a great one, The man who wants smoke will get all he wants.”—C. J. Quinby. © We have tested your new smoker and have never seen a better one.”— James Heddon. “ “Your new smoker.is simply immense, the best I ever used.”—Will M; Kel- oge. “TT want just as largea smoker as I'éan get, and yours is decidedly a large one anda gool one, The draft is perfect, and the springs of quick action, AIL bee.keepers will pronounce it the best in the market.”—Rev S. H. Hamerling. “T have in my-cabinét a sample of all the smokers of any,note yet produced, T’ve just been trying your new one. It is without question the best smoker ever make, and can’t be improved.”’—Prof. J. Hasbrouck, “Your smoker took the first premium, although in competition with both the new. Quinby and the Bingham smokers. All who expressed an opinion. said it was the best théy*had ever seeb.”—Dr. H. B. Mason, Secictary of Pristate Fair, Toledo, O., Sept 20, 1882. PRICES: 1 Large size, barrel : inches i in diameter. Nemactest Remcreoeee cases $1 50 pSimailer te i. Wa se RR awe sed Sci scaw eeeeces 125 By. ra 2 cents extra, With our new inside FEEDER a colony with empty combs is fed enough for winter in,twenty-four hours. The syrup is heated to 90° Fahrenheit, and the feeder barng in the hive, exactly asa frame of honey, when the Bees at once remove it to the cells and seal them over. One sample Feeder, holding 10 to 12 lbs., by mail Per half dozen, by express Sei outis ou saesiineduslecesbsieescheccas'ess NoTpe.—This regres received First Premium at the late Northeastern Con- vention, Jan. 9 fo 12, 1883, Beesand Queens of all races; Hives, al) styles; Extractors, five sizes; Books, allauthors; Foundation and Mills. EVERYTHING in the BEEK LINE. illustr ated Jatalogues and aa ice sovigey ae our eg page Bee- Ge aa oe sl a year) -EREE. 2 KING’ &, ASPINWALL, 14 Park Place, New York. Bee Farm, Apiaries, and Factory at Barrytown-on-Hudson, New York. The American A piculturist: A JOURNAL DEVOTED TO SCIENTIFIC AND PRACTICAL APICULTURE. A 32-PAGE MONTHLY. Edited by a Practical Bee-Keeper, assisted by a corps of the best contributors the world affords. A Journal for the Bee-Keepers and Published in their Interest. : Our list of contributors includes L. L. Langstroth, Oxford, Ohio; A.J. Cook, Prof, of Entomology, Lansing, Mich.; J. E. Pond, Jr., Att'y, Foxboro, Mass.; L. C. Root, Mohawk, N. Y., author of Quinby’s New Bee-Keeping; Geo. W. House, Sec’y Northeastern Bee-Keepers’ Association, Fayetteville, N. Y.; H. Alley, author of Bee-Keeper’s Handy-Book, Wenham, Mass.; E. E. Hasty, Richards, Ohio; Julius Hoffman, Fort Plain, N. Y.; P. H. Elwood, Starkille, N. Y.; D. A. Jones, Esq., ex-President of the Ont. B. A.; Mr. Holterman, Sec’y and Treas. Ont. B. A.; G. W. Demaree, Christiansburg, Ky.; and many others equally prominent and valued, We Offer Better Inducements to Subscribers and Agents than any other Journal extant. Journal and Handy-Book sent for $1.75. DO NOT FAIL TO SEND FOR SPECIMEN COPY. ADDRESS, SILAS M. LOcHE, EDITOR AND PROPRIETOR, SALEM, MASS. Sent Three Months for 35 Cts; Six Months 60 Cts; One Year $1.00. KEEPERS’ 28 Pages, 50 Cents per ten SPECIMEN COPY FREE. A. G HILL, Kendallville, Ind. | A. G HILL’S BEE -KEEPERS’ SUPPLIES. THE WINTER OR IMPROVED AMERICAN BEE-HIVE, A New Chaff Cap, as a Winter Protector ae the ; Above Hive. SECTION HONEY BORED, HONEY AND WAX EXTRACTOR All of which have been designed by the ~ Manufacturer. Send for Prices. A. G.. HILL, KENDALLVILLE, IND. ARTIFICIAL SWARMS: A Pamphlet of Sixteen Pages. A system by which Bees may be increased to the greatest extent, without violating the laws of natural swarming. It-gives a plan by which a moderate increase may be obtained, and is asystem of Queen- rearing. Every novice should read it. P Sent to any address for two 3-cent stamps, A. G. HILL, Kenpanuviuue, IND. PELH AM’S —-PATENT— FOUNDATION MILL. (Patented: May 23d, 1882.) Believing it to be to the interest of Bee-Keepers to make their own Comb. Foundation, at home, under their own personal A eae ea Ihave labored for more than three years to devise a Mill that would be both cheap and efficient, Having now perfected my invention, I submit it to the judgment of my fel- . low Bee-Keepers, believing it to be as good as any, and superior to some of the Foundation Machines heretofore made. The rolls of my Mills are made of hard type-metal. They are not formed into shape with a punch, but are cast in sections, by which means L can make the grooves for forming sidewalls ¥ of an inch deep in the rolls, It can be readily seen that as the wax does not reach the bottom of the groove, the top wall is not pressed upon at all, butis left as softas itis possible for any Ma- chine to make it. By a simple device the upper roll may be raised to foros the end of the wax sheet to be passed through at starting, without any impression, far enough to take hold of; the pressure.is then put on by moving 2 single lever and the sheet roiled through. Samples of Foundation and Descriptive Circular will be sent on application. : WM. C. PELHAM, MARCH, 1883, : Maysville, Kentucky. VAN ALSTINE & EOWE, 106 Tremont Street, Under Studio Building, I kd Ita 00 ) ill ———S—_—— ARTIFICIAL EYES, ETC. = —_ = ! rT A Competent Optician Al- il | | | | | | i : ways in Attendance. i HIS ; Examinations of the Eye Made without an Extra Charge. All Kinds of Optical Goods kept constantly on hand. MICROSCOPES. We furnish Microscopes and Microscopical Apparatus of all kinds, Foreign and American, at the Lowest Prices. WE MAKE A SPECIALTY OF CODDINGTON LENSES, All.Goods Warranted the Best of the Kind. S. M. VAN ALSTINE, BOSTON, MASS. B. V. HOWE. HIVES AND SECTIONS. _|_ || We Make Hives of All Kinds to Order. WE CARRY IN STOCK THE SIMPLICITY LANGSTROTH HIVES And the Celebrated Baker Hives. There are over 5,000 of our Baker Hives in use. We make a specialty of the All-in one-piece Section or Honey Kox. These Boxes are made of the very nicest of White Basswood, of which we are now getting a large stock for the trade of 1884. We also dealin Honey Extractors, Smokers, and Comb Foundation. We are also manufacturers of and dealers in LUMBER, LATH, SHINGLES, SASH, DOORS. and BLINDS, algo A. H, HILL’S MAGIO SLIDING INSIDE WINDOW BLINDS, and dealers in ].IME, PLASTER, CEMENT, and HAIR. Send for price-list of Ap:arian Supplies. Ww. B. STONE & CO, Sept. 17th, 1863, NORTH LANSING, MICHIGAN, WHITMAN'S FOUNTAIN PUMP. Asaremely to prevent bees going to the woods, we have never found anything half as useful as the Foun- tain Pump.—Bee-Keepe: s’ Magazine. : I have been using two of your Fountain Pumps (one in each apiary) for swarm arresting for the past two seasons. They ave well made and always in order and ready. T saved eight-warms of bees with them last sea- son.—Jumes Heddon, Practical Honey kroducer, Dowa- giac, Mich. The Fountain Pumps are used for showering bees when swarming, to cause them to light and cluster, A Lady or Child can uso it easily. WASH BUGGIES. Sprinkling Plants and Vines. Used in any position. Sarsend for large Illus. trated Circular, J. A. WHITMAN, Patentee and Manufacturer, Providence, R. I, Pianos and Organs, WasuincTon, New JERSEY. THE BEST AND CHEAPEST IN THE WORLD. For Further Particulars, Catalogues, Htc., Address or call upon the Manufacturer, DANIEL Ff. BEATTY, Washington, New Jersey. CWE Ma eME sae. Comey an DANIEL 'F. BEATTY, PIANOS AND ORGANS wA7ashington, Tew Jersey. wu. Ss. STANDARD HONEY EXTRACTOR. FOR SALE BY eT. DRWwWos & Co., Dealers in Apiarian Supplies, TOLEDO, OHIO. This Extractor contains many improvements over all others. It has the best gearing made, which is hinged to the can, and can be turned back in sucha way that all the inside parts of Extractor may be instantly removed for clean- ing without removing a screw or bolt. Both sides of the comb may be extract- ed without removal from the wire basket or Extractor. Adjustable frame rests to hold long or short frames any height. When the cover is inverted it becomes an uncapping pan witha rest for the end of the frame while remov- ing the cappings. These Extractors took first premium at the Ohio, Michigan, and Indiana State Fairs, in September, 1882, being the only places in which they were exhibited. Mr. E. T. Lewrs;—In the ready removal of comb basket, and turning of combs withont removal from the extractor, permitted by your extractor, you have made two important improvements, A. J. Cook. 300 COLONIES OF BEES FOR SALE. Also Hives, Foundation, Extractors, Sections, Smokers, Frames, &c. I keep acomplete stock of everything needed ina first class Apiary, I make a specialty of Queen-rearing, and ean fill orders promptly for all the different varieties of bees. My Nucleus Colonies and Full Colonies give perfect satis- faction. I keep constantly on hand Seeds for Bee Pasturage. Satisfaction guaranteed. Send for Circular and Price List to x TT. FUA NTA GAN, — PROPRIETOR OF— ROSEHILL, LAKE, CAHOKIA, ald FALLING SPRING APIARIES, Belleville. St. Clair County, I1!. The very best reference given as to Financial Standing if desired, “THE BAVARIAN APIARY.” During a recent tour through Carniola, Austria, I mace specitl arrangements whereby I now receive regular shipments of CHOICK CAKNIOLAN QUEENS. Carniolan bees are large, strong, and, to my eye, handsome—being light gray in color They are the most peaceable bees I have ever handled, and even beginners in bee-culture will find no difficulty in manipulating them without smoke, and without protection to face or hands. The Queens I send out are of the highest quality, large, and prolific I have also special contracts whereby Lam supplied with EXTRA FINE ITALIANS, reared in those Alpine regions where I have found (he bees to be the most vigorous and prolific, The workers of these Queens are as finely marked ag any Ltalians in existence. One Queen in June or July, each. $4.59 After August Ist, each.....------ $3.60 After August Ist.each_:.........- 4.00 Ten Queensin JuneorJuly, each 3.60 Five Queensin JuneorJuly,each. 4.05 After August Ist,each ......- 3 30 Freight prepaid to New York city. Queens who do not reach the purchaser alive, if Immediately returned by letter, will be replaced FRANK BENTON, Georgenstr 4, Munich, Germany. THE BRITISH BEE JOURNAL —— AND—— BEE-KEEPERS’ ADVISER. Established 1873. Conducted by the Hon. Secretary of the British Bec-Keepers’ Association. THE BRITISH BEE F OURNAL has, hitherto. been published mion bali, Owing to the increased knowledge of Bee Culture, the formation of numerous County Bee-Keepers’ Associations, and the development of the industry of Bee-Keeping generally throughout the United Kingdom of Great Britain, it has been found necessary to increase its pages, and to publish it at more frequent intervals. A new volume commences on May Ist in each year. ON AND AFTER MAY Ist, 18834, The BRITISH BEE JOURNAL will be Published on the 1st and ‘15th of every Month. Price, Threepence; Post-Free, Threepence Halfpenny. THE BRITISH BEE JOURNAL is devoted to the interests of Bee-keep- ers, the prumotion of Bee-keeping,. and Bee-keepers’ Associations and Clubs throughout the United Kingdom. It gives the fullest “Reports of all Shows, Meetings, and Lectures, and contains the best articles by the highest authorities upon all subjects bearing upon Bees and Bee- keeping. A principal feature of THE BritisH BEE JOURNAL is the depa: tment allotted to ‘‘Evhoes from the Hives” ind *‘Q eries,” under various headings. ‘Its readers resort to the Editor in all cases of difficulty in the management of their Bees, and no trouble or expense is spared to obtain answers from the best authorities. ‘ SCALE OF CHARGES FOR ADVERTISEMENTS: SINGLE COLUMN— £ 8 da Wheee: MineSyc sce oe ede ee sseese eacciacecex 0 1 6 Per line aft rwards....2., 2220-2 .-0-e-eeee 0 0 6 MCh: OL SPACE caanseds/wlnecwe cision tcine 0 38 6 Quarter column......0.. 2 eee eee eee eeeeee OF 8 OO” Half GOs! grasses cee cies patsiayae ese .. 0 15 0 Whole Oz .B2cens pat se ee dew amaaieree's 1 5 90, DovsLEe CoLtumN— PAGO. ico Sew geome ctiaveawe aces woneceaedes 2 10 O FAlf’ HA Osc. oa sow weereetcsue amacrine ies 1 7 6 "Dat dl Paw Cihe caterers Saeeiblewceisensh eee 1 0 0O Quarter page...ccseecceses socees ve picneaee 0 17 «6 Letters to the Editor should be addressed “The Editor, BritisH BEE JOURNAL, care Strangeways & Sons, Tower St., Upper St. Mar- tin’s Lane, London, W. C.” D. A. TONBS, BEETON, ONTARIO, CANADA, Dealor in all Kinds of APIARIAN SUPPLIES, Bees and Honey. My honey and experimental bee farms are in and around Beeton, and my queen-rearing establishments are located on Georgian Bay, far from shore, and a sufficient distance from each other to insure pure fertilization. I am the first importer of the famous Holy Land bees from Pal- estine and Syria, and I now import Holy Land, Cyprian, and Italian bees; but those raised at my breeding establishments on the Georgian Bay are just as pure as the imported stock, and are superior, as they are bred with great care, and they do not have to stand the long jour- ney across the waters from Asia, HONEY KNIVES, My honey knives are acknowledged to have no equal. They were invented and designed by myself, after a thorough test and trial of all others of note, and they combine the good qualities of all the others. They are manufactured of the finest razor steel, and bear a very fine edge and mirror polish. HONEY LABELS. My honey labels are the finest and chespest in the world. They are designed fur both comb and extracted honey; are ptinted in nine different colors, all blended together, making a fine chromo label, and varnished, and got up in szes to suit packages from 2 ounces upward. Should they become soiled, they may be wiped off by a damp cloth. GENERAL SUPPLIES. A full supply of Hives, Smokers, Foundation (both brood and sec- tion), Sections, Perforated Metal, Bee-Guards, etc., ete. Honey ‘lins in all sizes, from 2 ounces to five pounds. I can supply everything required in the management of the small- est or largest apiary. SCOVELL BEE SMOKER! Scovell’s Hinged Nozzle Cold ia Blast Bee Smoker is the result of years of experiment, practically applied by a practical mechanic and well-bred bee master. The first ‘‘Scovell Smoker" was made in the spring of 1876, and was the first bee smoker—of which we have any record—to use the open or direct draft principle. ur smokers are of the largest size in use, of the best material, well made, and nicely finished. Read what the people say. TESTIMONIALS. DEAR S1R:—Your smoker will soon become very popular here. I never saw one that I like better. W. H. ANDREWS, McKinney, Texas. I think I have tried every smoker made except the “Quinby louble Dratt,” and find none better than yours. I shall take p/easure in recommending it. F L. WriGut, Plaintield, Mich. T have given the smoker three days’ tria) while extracting, and my little son who runs the smoker says ‘It beats Clark’s, Bingham’s, or the celebrated Root Simplicity, which in principle it resembles. It is the best smoker I ever used.” ‘ B. F. CARROLL,, Dresden, Texas. It is simple in construction and not liable to get out of repairs, and com- pletely “cold blast,” as by no possibility can a blast of hot air be thrown from it. I consider it the ne plus ulira ot smokers. J. E. Ponb, Jr., Foxboro, Mass. Smoker came O, K., and it’s a daisy. E. B, Vincent, M. D ,Sumner, Ind. The successful use of cotton seed as a smoker fuel, and a smoker to burn the same, is a valuable acquisition to the bee keeper, where goo! smoker fuel is searce, especially in the south, where cotton seed is so plentiful. You have indeed a valuable invention. Many thanks for the smoker sent, Yours, etc., Dr. WM. R. HOowarD, Kingston, Texas. It costs nothing to give our smoker a trial, If it con't give satisfaction, notify us in ten davs, by postal card, and we will return all moneys paid for it. Regular retail price, $1.00; by mail, $1.25, Address SCOVELL & ANDERSON, Columbus, Kansas. THE HANSAS BEE-KEEPER. Established in 1881. THE BEE-KEEPER is a live monthly magazine devoted exclusively tn bee culture. It has for its corps of regular correspondents and assistant editors some of the most practical writers and progressive bee-keepers of the age. Prominent.among its valuable features for 18-4, will be a series of original articles, running through the whole volume, written expressly for begmners in the practice of the art of bee-culture, by J. E, Pond, Jr, Foxboro, Mass., and the QUESTION DRAWER, edited by the well-known specialist, James Hed. don, Do :agiac, Mich. 3 The first aim of the BEE-KEEPER is to be the best and foremost hee paper in the world, to the end that bee culture, asa scientific and useful pursuit, may through its agency more rapidly develop into one of the most profitable and important industries of the globe. PUBLISHED AT $1.00 A YEAR. H. SCOVELL, Editor. Address SCOVELL & ANDERSON, Publishers, COLUMBUS, KANSAS.