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AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS

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CoRNELL UNIVERSITY

EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS

BEEKEEPING LIBRARY

Cornell University

Library

The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

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Management ef an Apiary

PLEASURE AND PROFIT.

BY

(qu) THOMAS 6. NEWMAN,

Editor of the “ American Bee Journal.”

<8 ILLUSTRATED, a

OFFICE OF
THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL,

CHICAGO, ILL.

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RESPIRATORY ORGANS OF THE HONEY BEE.

Itis now generally admitted that to become
a profitable pursuit, bee-keeping must be
conducted on scientific principles The old
management (or rather mis-management),
permitting the bees to use log-gums. hollow
trees, or old boxes for hives, can no longer be
tolerated.

To induce the practice of scientific man-
agement of the apiary is the sole object of
publishing this Book, and to that end we give
ovr own views and experiences, and also
quote from those who practice with success

- the plans and manipulations recommended.

Being desirous of having this Work “‘ fully
up with the times,” including all the various
improvements and inventions in this rapidly
increasing pursuit, we have made a thorough
revision of this edition in order to present the

apiarist with everything that may aidinthe 7

successful management of the Honey Bee,
and at the same time to produce the MOST
honey, in its BEST and MOST ATTRACTIVE
CONDITION.

Lhomas G. Newman.

ITALIAN BEES.

WORKER. DRONE.

INDEX OF THE CHAPTERS.

NATURAL HISTORY OF BEES.....
Introduction..............
The Races of Bees.
The Queen Bee..
The Drone Bee
Bee PV OENEr Bee.
Proauction of Wax and Comb..
Pollen, or Bee-Bread........-
Propolis, or Bee Glue.......

‘ESTABLISHMENT OF AN APIARY....

Which Way Should Hives Face. :
When to Commence.

How Many Colonies to begin’ with
Removing

Buying Swarm 2
How to Care ‘for a First Colony.-
Share:

-]: SE ee

Ants in Was Apia
Removing Propolis from Hands.

HIVES AND SURPLUS RECEPTACLES
Hive to Use.

Single Comb Hone}
One-Piece Honey 8
Cases for Holding S:
Making Hives and Surplus B

PRODUCTION AND CARE OF HONEY.
Preparation for the Market.....
How Should Honey be Marketed
Assort and Grade the Honey.....
How to Get Bees out of Boxes. .
Management of Comb Honey.
Honey in Unglassed Sections.
Handhing an Shipping.
Candied Comb Hon

saa
Putting the Glass in the ‘Sections
Honey as a Commercial Product

MANAGEMENT OF AN APIARY.... .
Scientific Management.

ian Bees.........
ing the Apiary
ntroducing a Queen..

nserting a Queen-Cell.
Nucleus Colonies.....
Dividing the Colonies. .

PAGE.
1

40/TwPROVEMENT IN BEES...

AGE.

Management of an Aptary—continued.
Swarming: ; how to Control it..... 67
. 69
ul 69
\ 71
Transferring from Box Hives.... 72
Transferring from Frame Hives. 74
Uniting Weak Cotonies........... 74
Clipping the Queen’s Wing. -
ing Out Drone Brood... 15
Removing Bees from the Combs. 75
Preparing Bees for Shipment.... 76
Uniting Colonies in the Spring... 78
How to Separate Swarms,........ 78
Robber Bees............ + 80
Feeding Bees. - 80
Quieting and Handling Bees.. 82
‘hipping and Introducing Queens 85
Bee Dysentery.........--seceesee. OF
Foul Brood Disease enietdewageesce: (BO
HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE.. 89
The Invention of the Extractor.. 89
‘When to Use the Extractor.... . 92
How to Extract............ serveee 93
CoMB FOUNDATION AND ITS USE 95

99
Fastening Foundation to Frames 100

BEE PASTURAGE A NECESSITY ...... 103
Trees for Shade and Honey...... 104
Plants for Field and Roadside... 108

Plants for Honey Exclusively.
Honey Plants for Decoration.

The Bee of the Future.. .
Lengthening the Bee’s Tongue.

HONEY AND BEE SHOWS............. 135
Exhibitions at Fairs. . 135
Effect of Bee and Honey Shows.. 138

THE WINTERING OF BEES....

Chaff Packing for Winter.. :
Preparing Cellar for Wintering.. 144
House for Wintering Bees........ 145
Wintering Bees in Clamps........ 146

GENERAL ADVICE TO BEGINNERS.. 147
General Information Necessary 147
Selecting a Location............., 147

Jan foran Apiary. .. . 148
Adopt a Standard Fram 149
Keep an Apiary Register. 149
Increase by Division... . 149
Artificial Swarming 152

+ Preparing Feed...... 153

Quard Against Overstocking. |... 1

Provide Continual Honey Bloom

INTRODUCTION.

Tr has been computed that in our World, the different
species of living animals number over a quarter of a million.
Among this vast concourse of life, we tind much food for
thought and meditation, but for instructive lessons none can
rival the marvelous transformations that insect life under-
goes in its processes of development !

The repulsive maggot of to-day, may to-morrow be the
active little fly, visiting leaf and flower, in merry and sportive
mood! Therepugnant caterpillar of to-day, may to-morrow,
asa chrysalis, be decked with green and gold, awaiting its
speedy transformation to the butterfly, of brilliant tints and
gorgeous beauty.

Such transformations give us a faint idea of the glorious
state of existence that, we are assured, awaits humanity,
after its passage beyond the present state of existence ! e
are informed that “ its glories and pleasures untold ” will be
fully realized by the pure and the good—yet of its realization
we can have no adequate conception ! hile in the present
state of development, like the chrysalis, awaiting the next
transformation, we may but inquire—t What shall it be to
be there??? For—

“Dreams cannot picture a world so fair,
Sorrow and death may not enter there;
‘Time cannot breathe on its fadeless bloom—
Far beyond the clouds, and beyond the tomb—
. Itis there! It is there 1!”
_ This is not a whit more wonderful than are the transforma-
tions from the egg to the tiny larva, from the larva to the
pupa, and from the pupa to the fully developed Honey Bee,
with its wondrous instincts and marvelous habits! The
student never ceases to wonder and admire, as he turns over
leaf after leaf of ‘‘the book of nature,” devoted to this
interesting insect. Indeed, there is a fascination about the
Apiary, that is truly indescribable; but even that, richly
. rewards the apiarist for all the time and labor bestowed upon
it. Every scientific Bee-keeper is an enthusiast. The won-
derful economy of the Bee Hive, from its very nature
resents to the thoughtful student, both admiration an
elight at every step !
_ A single bee, with all its industry, energy, and the
innumerable journeys it performs, will collect only about a
tea-spoonful of honey during one season—and yet more than
one hundred pounds of honey is often taken from one hive!

INTRODUCTION.

Does not the contemplation of this fact teach us a profitable
lesson of what great results may arise from persevering and
associated labor ?

When we view the skill exhibited in the building of the
beautiful comb—so true in form, so wonderfully systematic
in construction, and all completed by a crowd of bees ina
dark hive—and often at night, without the aid of sun, moon
or stars—we are amazed at the skill of these wonderful
architects !

In fructifying the floweis, too, bees present us with a field
of study so extensive that we dare not enter, further than to
say that but for their oft-repeated visits, many a beautiful
flower would in a short time cease to bloom—aye, and also to
live! Many plants absolutely require the visits of bees or
other insects to remove their pollen-masses, and thus to
fertilize them. Hence, Darwin wisely remarks, when speak-
ing of clover and heart’s-ease : ‘‘ No bees, no seed; no seed,
no increase of the flower. The more visits from the bees,
the more seeds from the flower; the more seeds from the
flower, the more flowers from the seeds.”’ Darwin mentions
the following experiment: ‘‘ Twenty heads of white clover,
visited by bees, produced 2.990seeds; while twenty heads so
protected that bees could not visit them, produced not one
seed.’

Thus is infinite Wisdom displayed by Nature on every
hand! Nothing is created in vain; each has its proper
sphere, and each its appropriate work to perform. We
admire ‘‘ the grand harmony of design,” and in meditative
mood we are soon

“Lost in wonder, love and praise !”

Tren we may seem to hear the merry hum of myriads of
insects, mingling with the joyous song of thousands of
benuliful birds adoring their Creator in Matin Song—all
Nuture joining in the chorus of praise—singing—

“the hand that made us is divine !”

As the song ascends to Heaven, billions of plants, and
shrubs, and trees, and flowers burst into bloom, and bid their
sweet verfurme to unite with Nature’s Chorus, and present a
“ thank-otfering” to the Great Father of all, ‘‘ who openeth
His hand, aud satisfieth the desire of every living thing.”

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PROF. A. J. COOK

WM. W. CARY.

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE HONEY BEE,

INTRODUCTION.

Every apiarist should be well informed, not only on the
habits, but also on the Natural History of the Honey Bee.

Man’s primeval state, no doubt, absolutely demanded
honey—therefore to have neglected to produce such a crea-
ture as the Honey Bee, so essential to the comfort of man,
“for whom all things were made,’”’ would have been totally
discordant with the well-known principles of universal and
Divine benevolence. Could any song of birds in Eden’s
enchanting bower surpass the mellifluous hum of the busy
Bee? Could any sportive gambol, circling flight, sudden
dart, or graceful curve of bird on the wing, equal the grace
and beauty, the action and the science of her aerial sports
or daily duties ? Could the combined aroma and symwmetri-
cal form of the thousands of “ the flowers of Paradise” com-
pare with the sweetness of her honey or the garniture of her
store house ? Could any portion of “the garden,” which
Adam was directed to “dress and keep,” present greater
attraction, or have stronger claims upon his protection and
care ?

While Honey was “from the beginning” among the first
of sweet things, and the sweetest of first things, given by the
Creator to man,—sugar is, separated from its source and
prepared for use by the hand of man, but of modern birth !—
For thousands of years Honey was man’s only sweet, and
source of nourishment,—but only for a short time has sugar
had its partial sway—and that alone in modern times. The
former was the creation and gift of God! The latter is
the invention of man !

No historian has been able to transmit to our day, a

12 BEE CULTURE.

description of the rude home that Noah provided for the
bees that he carried into the ark, nor tell us if Abraham’s
bees were kept in log-gums or box hives, but it ¢s recorded
that the land where Abraham dwelt—Canaan—was one
“flowing with milk and honey;”and when the old Patriarch,
because of the famine that prevailed there, sent his sons to
Egypt to buy corn, he sent as a present to the Egyptian
ruler some of Canaan’s famous honey.—Gen. 43: 11.

We may wel! conclude that Canaan’s honey was then as
famous as in subsequent ages was the honey from Mount
Hymettus, in Grecce.

The earliest mention of honey a8 an article of commerce,
is, that the Jews were engaged in trading it at Tyre, that old
and honored mart of trade in Phoenicia.—Hzek. 27 : 17.

Sirach, who lived about the time of the re-building of the
Temple at Jerusalem, speaking of the necessaries of life,
mentions honey, with flour and milk.

The Persians, Grecians and Romans, used honey quite
extensively as an article of dict ; they also used it largely in
preparing their food, and by it, most of their beverages were
sweetened,

Ancient Sages, among whom were Homer, Herodotus,
Cato, Aristotle, Varro, Virgil, Pliny and Columella,
composed poems extolling the activity, skill and economy of
bees, and in more modern times, among such authors have
been Swammerdam, a German naturalist ; Maraldi, an Italian
mathematician ; Schirach, a Saxon priest ; Réaumur, inventor
of a themometer ; Bonnet, a Swiss entomologist ; Dr. John
Hunter ; and Francis Huber, who, though totally blind, was
noted for his many minute observations, by the aid of his
assistant, Burnens, which caused quite a revolution in
ancient theories concerning the Honey Bee. He was also
assisted by Mdle. Jurine, who, by delicate microscopic
examinations, rendered important service not only to Huber,
but also to future generations.

But space forbids us to enumerate all the apiarists of the
present age—prominent among whom we may mention
Dzierzon, Von Berlepsch, Leuckart, Von Sicbold, Sir John
Lubbock, the Rev. L. L. Langstroth, Samuel Wagner, M.
Quinby, Adam Grimm, J. §. Harbison, Capt. J. E, Hether-

‘WnpLoUUong

‘yosdajwag w0a UuoLog

CAPT. J. H. HETHERINGTON.

T. F. BINGHAM.

BEE CULTURE. 13

ington, Professor A. J. Cook, and a mighty host of others,
who, through faith in scientific research and devotion to
experiments and manipulations, have wrought wonders with
their Bees. ‘Pulling down the strong-holds” of old-fogy
opposition, they “waxed valiant in fight” against all forms
of ignorant and fossilized theories, consigning them to a
burial with the fallacies of past ages—and, as if by magic
wand, they have bidden modern ideas and scientific manage-
ment of the Apiary to “ arise and shine,” sending benign
influences to the very ends of the earth |

THE RACES OF BEES.

Of the different races of the Honey Bee, the German or
black bee is the most numerous, though it is not older than
the Italians, which were known to the ancients several hun-
dred years before the Christian era, and are mentioned by
Aristotle and Virgil. The Egyptian, Carniolan, Cyprian
and Javan bees are but little known in this country. The
Italian being the favorite because of its docility, activity and
captivating beauty.

A COLONY OF BEES.

In its usual working condition, a colony of bees presents
a scene of the most lively interest, not only to the naturalist,
but also to every curious observer. Such a colony will con-
tain a fertile Queen, thirty to forty thousand _ workers, and
in some seasons, a few hundreds of drones.

THE QUEEN.

The Mother Bee, as she is called in many countries,
especially in Italy, is the only perfect female in the Colony,
and is the mother of it. Her only duty is to lay the eggs for
the propagation of the species. She is a little larger around
the body than the Worker, but not as large as the Drone.—
Her body is longer than the Worker, but her wings are only
about two-thirds of the length of the body, her abdomen
gradually tapering to a point. She has a sting, but uses it
only upon royalty.

The Queen usually leaves the hive only when accompany-
ing a swarm, and when a few days old, to meet the drones,

i4 BEE CULTURE.

for the purpose of becoming fertile. Once becoming such
she is so for life, though she often lives three or four years.
On her return to the hive, after meeting the Drones, if she
has been fecundated, the male organs may be seen attached

“HW

Fia. 1.—The Queen Bee, magnified.

to her abdomen. In about two days after thus mating with
the Drone she will commence to lay eggs, and she is capable
of laying two thousand, or more, eggs per day.

Instinct teaches the Workers the necessity of having a
Queen that is prolific, and should she become barren from

Fig. 2.—Head of Queen, magnified.

any cause, or be lost, they immediately prepare to raise
another to take her place. “This they do by building Queen
eells, and if, when these are about one-half completed, the
Queen has not deposited eggs in any of them, they take

r

BEE CULTURE. 15

eges from worker cells and supply them. By feeding the
embryo Queen with royal jelly, the egg that would have pro-
duced a Worker, had it remained in a Worker cell, becomes
a Queen.

The Ovaries of the Queen, occupying a large portion of
the abdomen, will be found to be two pear-shaped
bodies, composed of 160 to 180 minute tubes, the tubes
being bound together by enveloping air vessels. These are
the ovaries, of which a highly magnified view is here given.

Fia. 3.—The Ovaries of the Queen.

The germs of the eggs originate in the upper ends of the
tubes which compose the ovary, and the eggs develop in their
onward passage, so that at the time of the busy laving season,
each one of the tubes will contain, at its lower end, one or
more mature eggs, with several others in a less developed
state following them. These tubes terminate on each side
in the oviduct, through which the egg passes into the
vagina ; and, in the cut, an egg will be seen in the oviduct,
on the right. (Fig. 3). A globular sac will be noted,
attached to the main oviduct by a short, tubular stem.

A French naturalist, M. Audouin, first discovered the true

16 BEE CULTURE.

character of this sac as the spermatheca, which contains the
male semen; and Prof. Leuckart computes its size as suffi-
cient to contain, probably, twenty-five millions of seminal
filaments. It seems hardly possible that so large a number
should ever be found in the spermatheca, as it would require
nearly twenty years to exhaust the supply, if the queen
should lay daily 2000 eges, 365 days in the year, and cach
egg be impregnated. Hach egg which receives one of the
seminal filaments in passing, will produce a worker or queen,
while an unimpregnated ege will produce only a drone. The
spermatheca of an unfecundated qucen contains only a trans-
parent liquid with no seminal filaments, and the eggs of such
a queen produce only drones,

The Queen usually lays from February to October, but
early in the spring she lays sparingly. When fruit and
flowers bloom, and the bees are getting honey and pollen, she
lays more rapidly.

THE DRONES.

These are non-producers, and live on the toil and industry
of others. They are the males, and have no sting—neither

tba

Fie. 4.—The Drone Bee, magnified.
have they any means of gathering honey or scereting wax, or
doing any work that is even necessary to their own support,
or the common good of the colony.

The Drones are shorter, thicker and more bulky than the
Queen, and their wings reach the entire length of their
body. They are much larger and elumsier than the
Workers, and are covered with short but fine hair. Their

BEE CULTURE. 17

buzzing when on the wing is much louder and differs from
the others. Their only use is to serve the Queen when on
her “bridal trip.”

Not more than one in a thousand is ever privileged to
perform that duty, but as the Qucen’s life is very valuable,
and the dangers surrounding her flight are numerous, it is
necessary to have a sufficient number of them, in order that
her absence from the hive may not be protracted. After
mating, she returns to the hive a fertile Queen for life.

The Drone in the act of copulation loses his life, dying
instantly. At the approach of the swarming season they are

Fig. 5.—Head of Drone, magnifjied.

reared to fertilize the young Queens; after that is accom.
plished, they are mercilessly destroyed by the Workers.

Should a colony lose its Queen, the Drones will be
retained later; instinct teaching them that without the
Drone, the young Queen would remain unfertilized, and the
colony soon become extinct.

THE WORKERS.

These are undeveloped females, and they do all the work that
is done in the hive. They secrete the wax, build the comb,
gather the pollen for the young, and honey for all ; feed and
rear the brood, and fight all the battles necessary to defend
the colony.

Of the three kinds of bees, these are the smallest, but
constitute the great mass of the population. They possess

18 BEE CULTURE.

the whole ruling power of the colony and regulate its
economy.

The workers are provided with a sac or honey-bag ; there
isa small cavity on their posterior legs, (Fig. £3, A.) in which
they store the pollen of flowers in very small lumps, being

Fie. 6.—The Worker Bee, magnified.

the most convenient form in which to carry it home. They
are also provided with a sting, which they use only for
defense.

They gather honey, which is a secretion in many flowers—
pollen, which is the farina of various plants, and which is
largely used in forming bee-bread, and also propolis or bee-

Fic. 7.—Head of Worker, magnified.
glue, a resinous substance that is used in fastening the combs
to the sides of hives, and to fill cracks or open places.

Many persons entertain the idea that the Worker bees live
many years. Their conclusion is drawn from the fact that
colonies inhabit the same hive for a long period ; but the
natural life of the Worker honey-bee does not exceed six

BEE CULTURE, 1$

months, and from recent experiments it is ascertained that. ir
does not exceed six or eight weeks in the height of the honey
season. Those reared in the fall, having little out-door work
to perform, will live till the spring. None of them die or

Fie. 8.—Anterior Leg of Worker, magnified.

old age, but the majority work themselves to death, and many
are killed through other causes.

BROOD.

The egg is laid by the Queen, in the bottom of the cell ; in
three days it hatches into a small, white worm, called larva,
which being fed by the bees, increases rapidly in size ; when
this larva nearly fills the cell, it is closed up by the bees. '

Fie. 9.—Eggs and Brood.

The time usually taken for this process is eight days for the
Worker or Queen, and 94 days for the Drone.

The Workers will develop from the egg in 21 days; gath
ering honey from about 16 days after emerging from the cell,
The Drones will hatch in 24 days, and if the weather is
propitious they will “fly” in a few days‘after. The Queens

20 BEE CULTURE,

mature in 16 days, and are able to fly in a few hours after
emerging from the cell.

Until the 17th day the workers seem only to be fit for the
work of the hive. Before that age they seldom leave the
hive—their labors being confined to the building of the
comb, nursing the brood, feeding the larvae, capping brood
and honey cells, Xe.

PRODUCTION OF WAX AND COMB.

This subject is an intensely interesting study. Before
the time of Huber, it was generally supposed that wax was
made from bee-bread; but Huber fully demonstrated that
bees could construct comb from honey, without the aid of
bee-bread. But, oxygen, being the support of animal heat,
is essential to bees while building comb, because ar extraor-
dinary amount of heat must be generated, to enable them to
soften the wax and mould it into such delicate forms.

We herewith present a cut of the under surface of the Bee,
showing the wax formation between the segments :

Fig. 10.—Under suface of Worker, showing Wax in Segments.

Dr. Diénhoff states that in new comb the thickness of the
sides of the cells is but the 180th part of an inch! Such
dclicate work is hardly conceivable; and yet, bees often
make it in the dark, on cool, cloudy days, or in the night—
appearing never to rest.

Prof. Duncan, professor of Geology in King’s College,

YATAH STON VEL!

ISHOHNAAVEIYD ‘Heo

ry

‘UDINAH NHOL ‘dd0L YAHLYAF

BEE CULTURE, 21

London, in his work on the “Transformation of Insects,”
remarks as follows on this intcresting subject :

“The production of wax is one of the most remarkable
physiological phenomena of the organization of these Z[y-
menoptera. It was generally thought, formerly, that the
bees disgorged their wax from the mouth, and Réaumur
certainly held this opinion ; but John Hunter discovered the
manner in which the wax was formed ; and it is now evident
that the bees carry within themselves this important building
material. The segments of the abdomen of bees overlap
from before backwards, but when the margin of one is lifted
up, two broad and smooth surfaces will be noticed on the
uncovered surface of the next wing ; these surfaces maintain
during one part of the year two thin, white, and almost trans-
parent laminze, which are really composed of wax. The wax
is really secreted by some small glands which are within the
abdomen, and it transludes through the soft and smooth
integument between the rings or segments. It would appear
that the sugary matters which are sucked and digested by
the bees are to a great extent transformed into wax, which
is to all intents and purposes a sort of fat.”

A writer in Seribner’s Monthly thus describes the manner
of comb building in a new swarm :

“When a swarm of bees is about to leave its old home
and seek another, each bee fills itself with honey. After
entering their new home, the gorged bees suspend themselves
in festoons, hanging from the top of the hive. They hang
motionless for about 24 hours. During this time the honey
has been digested and converted into a peculiar animal oil,
which collects itself in scales or laminze beneath the abdomi-
nal rings. This is the wax. One of the workers, called the
founder, then draws from its own body, by means of its
clawed foot, a seale of wax. This it breaks down and crum-
bles, and works with its mouth and mandibles till it becomes
pliable; and it then issues from the mouth in the form ofa
long, narrow ribbon, made white and soft by an admixture of
saliva from the tongue. Meanwhile the other bees are
making ready their material in the same way. On the ceiling
of the hive an inverted, solid arch of wax is built, and from
this the first foundation cells are excavated, all the subse-

22 BEE CULTURE.

quent ones being built up and around these, which are
usually three in number. The size and shape of the cell is
determined by its future use; but ail comb is formed of two
sheets of cells placed back to back, the partition walls of the
two sheets always alternating with one another. If the
comb is intended for brood, 25 cells of worker-brood, and 16
of drone, go to the square inch.”

Neighbour, in his work on “The Apiary,” says :

‘Wax is the animal fat of the bees, and to produce it
requires a considerable consumption of honey, to supply the
drain upon the system. To be capable of passing through
the pores of the abdomen, the wax must, no doubt, bea
liquid, oily matter, which, on making its appearance outside
the abdominal rings, thickens, and exudes from under the 4
medial ones, in flakes like fish-scales, one on each side ; so
that there are 8 of these secreting cavities, which are pecu-
liar to the worker, not being found either in the queen or
drone.

“The rapidity with which comb-building progresses would
lead to the supposition that there is a division of labor among
bees, just as laborers convey building material to the artisans
on the scaffold above. This work of comb-building is carried
forward in warm weather, for a cold temperature interferes
with the secretion of wax. Von Berlepsch declares that he
has known cases in which a colony has built 300 square
inches of comb in a single night!”

The Rev. L. lL. Langstroth remarks as follows :

“Tt is an interesting fact, which seems hitherto to have
escaped notice, that honey-gathering and comb-building go
on simultancously ; so that when one stops, the other ceases
also, As soon as the honey-harvest begins to fail, so that
consumption is in advance of production, the bees cease to
build new comb, even although large portions of their hives
are unfilled. When honey no longer abounds in the fields,
it is wisely ordered that they should not consume in comb-
building, the treasures which may be needed for winter use.
What safer rule could have been given them ?”

With all our ingenuity and skill, we have been entirely
unable to equal the bees as builders. Only fancy what
delicate work it takes to produce comb, the 180th part of an

BEE OULTURE. 23

inch thick!! Truc, we take the wax they produce, melt it
up, spread it into sheets, and then configurate it, showing
the base or foundation of the cells—but there our inventive
genius, for the present at least, “takes a rest.” In compari-
son with their workmanship, ours is as a thick sheet of
wrapping paper to a delicate sheet of tissue paper !

It is estimated that it takes about 20 pounds of honey to
produce one pound of wax ; it is therefore all-important that
all good pieces of comb should be preserved and given again
to the bees.

There are three kinds of cells ina hive. The smaller ones
are hexagonal, and a little more than one-fifth of an inch in
diameter, and are called Worker cells ; the larger ones of the
same shape are one-fourth of an inch in diameter, and are

Fie. 11.—Frame of Brood.

called Drone cells. These cells may be seen illustrated in
Fig. 11. The smaller or Worker cells being shown at the
top ; the larger or Drone cells, at the bottom. The other
cells, of different size and shape, (see Fig. 11.) are Queen
cells; one is shown in the centre of the engraving, and
four more on the left. They extend vertically or diagonally
downwards, and very much res¢mble a peanut in form and
size—they are simply the birth-place of Queens, and are

24 BEE CULTURE.

only built in swarming time, or when the colony is rearing a
Queen. The Worker or Drone cells are used not only for
brood-rearing, but also for storing honey and pollen, or bee-
bread.

At first when the combs are built, they are generally trans-
parently white, but with age and use for brood-rearing they
become dark and opaque. The thin cocoons lining the cells,
help to make them so; such are, however, just as valuable
for breeding purposes for a long time, or until the size is
materially diminished, thereby causing dwarfed brood. It is
also valuakle for storing honey, where the Extractor is used.

POLLEN OR BEE BREAD.

This is the fertilizing dust, or fine meal-like substance,
which the bees procure from the stamens of flowers. When
deprived of bloom, they will take flour in lieu thereof. Bees
collect pollen and carry it in their pollen baskets (Fig. 43, A.)
to the hive and store it for daily or future use.

When mixed with honey it is used to feed the young;
older bees use it also for food, to elaborate wax, &e.

Bees only gather one kind of pollen at a time. While
different bees may carry in several colors at the same time,
the pellets on any one bee will be all alike.

Bees require water when comb-building and brood-rearing
is going on, and should have access to it.

PROPOLIS OR BEE GLUE.

This is also collected, like pollen, by the bees, from resin-
ous buds, and is used for fastening combs, coating uneven
surfaces, and filling up cracks within the hive. They also
sometimes use it in hermetically sealing up any offensive
matter that may be too burdensome for them to remove from
their hives.

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TIE ESTABLISHMENT OF AN APIARY.

SITUATION, STOCKING AND ARRANGEMENT.

An enthusiastic admircr of the elegant habits of Bees,
presistently enquires, Did any one ever sufficiently admire—
did he, indeed, ever notice—the entire elegance of the
habits and pursuits of bees? their extraction of nothing but
the quintessence of the flowers; their preference for those
that have the fincst and least adulterated odor ; their avoid-
ance of everything squalid (so unlike flies); their eager
ejection or exclusion of it from the hive, as the instance of
carcasses of intruders, which, if they cannot drag away, they
cover up and entomb ; their love of clean, quict, and delicate
neighborhoods—thymy places with brooks ; their singularly
clean arrangement of so liquid and adhesive’ a thing as
honey, from which they issue forth to their work as if they
had nothing to do with it; their combination with honey-
making, of the elegant manufacture of wax, of which they
make their apartments; their orderly policy; their delight
in sunshine ; their apparent indifference to anything regard-
‘ing themselves, apart from the common good ?

BEE-KEEPING A SCIENCE.

To succeed in any calling, we must first gain a reasonable
amount of knowledge of the science upon which are founded
the rules of that. art. Bee-keeping is a science, having for
its object the attainment of a correct knowledge of all that
pertains to the habits and instincts of these wonderful in-
sects; and a practical art which regards all the attainments
thus made as the only reliable basis of successful bee-culture.
Therefore, to make the pursuit both pleasant and profitable
we must possess the requisite knowledge of the laws that
govern these industrious creatures.

26 BEE CULTURE.

Reading and study as well as experience and observation
are essential to obtain this knowledge. The lacking of these
things will account for the many failures of those whose
enthusiasm is not supported by experimental knowledge !

Every apiarist, therefore, musé read and study, in order to
practice the art with pleasure and profit.

WHO SHOULD KEEP BEES?

Many embark in this occupation who should not ; being
better adapted to some other. Only those should do so who
are fond of the study of nature, particularly of the nature and
habits of the honey bee! They must be willing to adopt the
valuable improvements of the present day, and keep pace
with this progressive age ; they must be able to control them-
selves, in order to control their bees. Such only will suc-
ceed—while those who still cling to the brimstone and old
fogy notions of their fathers, and who are averse to progress-
ive bee-keeping, who shun the little pets on account of their
pungent weapons, and when stung retaliate with more ferocity
and less judgment than would become a mere animal—can
never succeed, and should avoid bee-culture.

The careless, slovenly and lazy person should not keep
bees. The care of an apiary is more than it is usually con-
ceived to be—it is work / Work for the brain, as well as
the hands and feet !

, SUITABLE LOCATION.

As this work is intended principally for beginners and
those unacquainted with the business of bee-keeping, we
shall not discuss those questions which alone interest. the
advanced apiarist as to location, &c. We simply say: Get
a good location where fruit and flowers abound, and where
white clover and linden or basswood is found. Almost any-
where within the United States will be good.

One thing we would say: Don’t go where there are
already many other bee-keepers, for several reasons: 1st.—
Tf you should have Italians, you don’t want to have your
queens fertilized by impure drones. 2d. The pasturage
may not be sufficient to support more bees. 3d. Older bee-
keepers may think you are “treading on their toes,” and it
may lead to unpleasant feclings, and a disastrous competition.

(Weitsdececeaccoeerned

)

Glands in Bees, Greatly Magnified.

Plan of an Australian Apiary.

From the honey-house to the outer edge of the
inner circle of hives, 1) teet; thence to the outer
edge of the middle circle, 15 feet; thence to the
outer edge of the outside circle, 25 feet.

iy
yy

R. F. HOLTERMANN.

CHARLES F. MUTH.

BEE CULTURE. 27

A territory of three or four miles all alone is quite a luxury,
if you intend keeping bees for profit.

Our apiary was located in Chicago, close to one of
the main thoroughfares and street-car lines, and the results
in both increase of colonies and honey has been exceedingly
satisfactory. Mr. Muth, of Cincinnati, has his apiary on
the roof of his store—and is successful with it.

We use saw-dust under and around the hives, to prevent
the springing up of grass to the annoyance of the bees.—
Some use sand or gravel for the same object, with success.

A timber range is very desirable, for a large portion of
their honey and pollen they gather from timber and shrubs.
Many good localitics are found near rivers or streamlets,
where linden, sumac, maple, willow, cottonwood, and other
trees, shrubs and vines that yield honey and pollen abound.

The bees should be near the house, or where they can be
heard when they swarm. They should be so located that the
north and west winds would not strike them, where they can
have a warm, calm place to alight.

A hedge, high board-fence, or building on the north and
west are a protection against the strong winds which destroy
very many laboring bees in the spring, when one bee is worth
as much as a dozen in the latter part of summer, as they are
then much needed to care for the brood and keep it warm.

If, in April, the day has been rather warm and the evening
cool and windy, hundreds of becs may be found on the
ground in front of the hive, perhaps loaded with pollen, but
exhausted from the flight and chilled with cold. As they
approach the hive they relax their exertions, and a light
whiff of wind dashes them to the ground, from which they
are unable to arise, and before the sun could warm them up, the
next morning, they will be dead.

If you have no shade for your bees, it would be best to
plant fruit trees among them. These would not only supply
them with pollen and honey in blooming time, but acceptable
shade in hot summer days. Another thing is apparent, 27. e.,
the fruit would be a remuneration. The bees would fructify
the trees and make them to bear plentifully—while in return,
the trees would afford to the bees that shade which they so
much require, from the burning rays of the sun.

28 BEE CULTURE.

WHICH WAY SHOULD HIVES FACE.

There seems to be no facing superior to the onc that allows
the sun’s rays to shine directly into the entrance of a hive
at 11:30 a.m. There is not a difference of any consequence
between a south, south-east or south-west aspect, and selection
may be made to suit the apiarist’s notion. Next to this, we
should say, face to the east ; if this is impossible, then west
—and when no other is available, submit to a north frontage.

WHEN TO COMMENCE,

The reason why many are unsuccessful is that they com-
mence at the wrong TIME. It may have been noticed that
about every third year has been a poor season for bees.
After such a season but few will commence; while, if the
next is a good one, many think the matter worthy of their
attention, and if this is followed by another prosperous year,
they then decide to embark. But alas, that is just the time
to meet the third year’s reverse. Those, therefore, who
engage in the business should not be discouraged at one
reverse.

Early in the spring is the best time to begin—and thus
secure an increase of bees as well as honey the first year.

HOW MANY COLONIES TO BEGIN WITII.

Purchase a colony from some reliable breeder or dealer,
and in order to get experience, increase from one or two
colonies—not more.

As it is essential to know WHAT to do, WHEN to do it, and
HOW to do it, we cannot too strongly advise the beginner to
purchase a good manual of the apiary, and sTuDY IT WELL.
This is absolutely essential to success.

REMOVING BEES.

After procuring the bees and selecting the location and
position in the apiary, the next thing is to know when and
how to remove the bees. In thespring or fall will be the best
time to remove them. In the hot weather the combs may be
broken down in transit, and general ruin may be the result.

In September or October they may be removed with safety,

BEE CULTURE. 29

but the best time to begin an apiary is in April or May.
Only strong colonies should be purchased, unless nuclei colo-
nies are desired in the spring to build up into strong ones by
the fall.

If the distance is less than half a mile, they should be
removed late in the fall, or the purchaser may lose heavily by
the bees going back to their old location. Only a few days
since, we heard of a man buying a few colonies of bees of
his neighbor ; and, to his surprise, only the young bees, brood
and Queen remained, after a few days—the old ones having
gone back to their former location, and either died in trying
to find their old home or united with other colonies.

It is necessary, however, for their health that shortly after
completing their journey they should have one or two fine
days on which they can go out and relieve themselves. The
disturbance created by transport causes every bee to fill itself
with honey, and the condition thereby induced is unfavorable
to lengthened confinement. We can always calculate on a
fine day occurring after a short interval, in the fall—but one
suitable for bee flight may not happen in winter till after the
lapse of several weeks. If bees eat freely, and are constrained
by an inclement atmosphere to remain long within their hives,
evil consequences follow. This is what sometimes causes
destruction to colonies moved in winter.

WHAT KIND OF BEES TO GET.

Some prefer to purchase black bees in box hives, and then
transfer them to movable frame hives in order to get expe-
rience. In that case, they should be populous colonies with
the comb yellow or brown. Then the honey received will
help to pay for the cost of transferring.

The best satisfaction may be obtained by purchasing strong
Italian colonics in the spring. Such will, doubtless, in a few
seasons, pay for themselves, thus proving the cheapest in the
end, though a little more outlay is required at first. One
such colony is worth two of the former.

To examine a BOX HIVE, incline it to one side, looking
from the bottom up, between the combs. By using a smoker,
the bees may be driven back, and one may discover if it has

30 BEE CULTURE.

capped brood, larve and plenty of bees. It should have
such, to be considered in good condition.

BUYING ‘‘SWARMS OF BEES.”

A first swarm is always to be preferred, and if possible
from a colony which gave a swarm the previous year, for
then the old queen will be in her second year—vigorous and
at her best. A small, second swarm should be passed by, in
purchasing. Arrange the frames about 1} inches from
center to center; tilt the hive forward, at an angle of 20 to
25 degrees, and they will be almost certain to build straight
on the top-bars of the frames. Ifan old colony is purchased,
let it be one that was heavy in the spring, with straight
comb coming entirely down to the bottom of the frames,
or having as much of it as possible.

HOW TO CARE FOR A FIRST COLONY.

If it comes by express or freight, take it home carefully
in a spring wagon. Be sure that the combs run lengthwise
of the wagon; drive slowly and handle with care. Place
the hive in the position you wish it to occupy, and let it
remain until evening, when the wire cloth that is usually
nailed over the entrance may be removed, and some board
or other obstacle placed in front of the hive, so that when
the bees come out in the morning, they will circle around
and mark the location, before going to their work, and thus
return in due time with safety. About mid-day, it may be
well to open the hive and see whether any combs are broken
down, and if so, get them straightened up, and fastened
either with twine or wire, until the bees have secured them,
when such fastenings should be removed. Be sure to smoke
them well, before opening the hive.

BEES KEPT ON SHARES.

As some may desire to keep bees ‘‘on shares ”—though
we never think it desirable to do so, as it often leads to
misunderstandings and quarrels—we will here give the
customary ‘‘terms” of such contracts :

It is usual for one party to furnish the colonies of bees,
and the other party the care and labor. The expense of new
hives, surplus boxes, comb foundation and queens, is usually

‘NOSVH ‘1 °V CUT

BEE CULTURE. 31
divided equally, and at the end of the season the honey and
increase of bees are equally divided—leaving each to take all
chances of marketing, as well as wintering.

Always make a written contract, stating the agreement in
full, and then there will be less liability of a misunderstanding.

BEES MARKING THEIR LOCATION.

This is done throngh the sense of sight. A large per-
centage of the bees that fly out in the early spring are those
that have come into being during the winter and early spring ;
consequently they do not leave the hive in a straight line,
but only go a few inches, then turn their heads towards the
hive and oscillate back and forth in front of it ; then moving
further back, still hovering in front of the hive, with their
heads towards the entrance, occasionally. advancing towards
it, asif to note more particularly the place of entrance and its
immediate surroundings, they then increase the distance,
taking a survey of buildings, trees, fences, or other noticeable
objects near by, after which they return to the hive, and start
in a direct line from it. On returning, they come directly to
the hive and enter ; the surrounding objects and the color of
the hive are all noted by the bees.

CHANGING THE LOCATION.

It is desirable not to change the location of hives, unless
it becomes absolutely necessary to do so. After the bees
Have become familiar with their location, should the hive be
moved a few feet, they will not notice it when departing on
their daily rounds, and if there are other hives near, they
may perish in attempting to enter other hives or in wander-
ing about, seeking their own home.

When it becomes necessary to move the hives, it should
be done gradually, not exceeding the breadth of the hive
each day. Or if they are to be moved several rods, alarm
them by smoke hlown into the entrance, then close it, and
remove, placing some obstacle before the hive previous to
opening the entrance again. In moving half a mile or more,
the result is different ; they note the new locality and return
to it. :

32 BEE CULTURE,

WILL BEES INJURE FRUIT?

Bees never puncture fruit, and unless the skin has been
broken by other insects or birds, they never molest it. Any
_one can easily determine whether bees injure grapes or not.
We know it is charged against them by some persons, but if
any one will take sound grapes and hang them up in the
apiary where the bees have full access to them, the matter can
be easily demonstrated. This experiment has often been
tried, but we have never yet heard of a single instance where
the bees have punctured even one sound grape.

Dr. Wm. R. Howard, of Texas, says: ‘I have tried the
following experiments: Bees were covering the grapes in
the vineyard, and seemed actually intoxicated on the wine.
Removing several bunches, some of which had punctured
berries, and some sound ones, were taken to the apiary, and
the bees soon found them and went to work vigorously. As
soon as the punctured ones were exhausted, the bees aban-
doned them and went in quest of something better. Then
the bees were furnished more of the same lot, and closed in
the hive ; as soon as the punctured ones were exhausted, they
seemed uneasy, then bunch after bunch of sound grapes were
given them, which were eagerly covered, but as soon as it was
found that none were punctured, they fell back in dismay.
The mandibles of the honey bee are not dentate or serrate,
but are simply smooth, and beautifully rounded at the points,
spoon or scoop-shaped, covered on the body with fine hairs
rather long, and on the edges are covered with still finer hair,
with a second row around the internal surface, just suited to
work soft wax, brush it up and give it the proper finish.
If any one will examine these mandibles with a good micro-
scope, it will satisfy him at a glance of the incapability of
the honey bee to damage, by puncture, any fruits whatever.”

Mr. D. H. Cutting, of Michigan, remarks: ‘I suspended
a cluster of crapes under a tree, and poured sugar syrup on
it; they took all of the syrup, but did not damage the cluster,
antil a wasp managed to bite three berries before I could kill
it ; those three the bees finished. With many experiments,
during five years, being surrounded by bees and affording
them every opportunity of doing damage, and, failing to find
them doing any, I think those who condemn the bees should

BEE CULTURE. 33

experiment for themselves, and ascertain whether the bees do
them any damage or not ; they may come to the same con-
clusion as did the people of Massachusetts, who, years ago,
thought the bees damaged their fruit, and had them banished,
but, finding that fruit began to decrease and become of a
poor quality, were only too glad to have the law repealed, and
get the bees back again, when their fruit improved again.”

CLEANSING COMBS CONTAINING DEAD BROOD,

Brood is sometimes deserted by the bees from some cause,
and, of course, dies—it might have been spread too much, or
the bees were insufficient to properly care for it. It is often
asked what to do with the combs containing such dead brood.
We would say: Uncap those cells in which brood has died,
then put them away in some dry place till the dead brood has
dried and shrunken. When wanted for use, put them one or
two ata time in the stronger colonies, where they will be
speedily and thoroughly prepared for use. ‘In order to make
them desirable for brood combs, it is necessary that the cells
be ready for the queen’s occupancy as soon as she reaches the
comb, or she will either pass over the comb entirely, or de-
posit her cggs here and there, wherever she finds unobjec-
tionable spots. Every close observer has noticed that the
queen invariably makes a close inspection of the cell she
proposes using, and unless perfectly clean she will not deposit
an egg init. With a cell here and there occupied with dead
larvee, it is easy to imagine how the living larva adjoining
may be more or less liable to become chilled, as inanimate
bodies are not possessed of the natural heat which pertains
to those living. It is undoubtedly this natural law which
instinctively impels a “good”’ queen to deposit her eggs com-
pactly in an oval space in the comb, thus economizing to the
greatest extent the heat of each ‘ndividual larva to help keep
its neighbor warm. To what extcnt the presence of dead
brood in the combs (which has died from natural causes) may
have caused the death of contiguous brood, we cannot say,
but certainly it has contributed largely to many of the theo-
ries regarding “ foul brood” and its tendencies, and perhaps
in rare instances has had a tendency to enfeeble many of those
bees which survived to maturity.

34 BEE CULTURE,

It may not be out of place, in this connection, to advise
that the stronger colonies be selected to do all the drudge-
work of the apiary, such as cleansing befoul ed combs, re-
moving mold from combs, and pulling out such dead bees
from the cells as will not shake out when dried and shrunken.
If your strong colonies have their hives already filled with
frames of brood, then remove sufficient to accomplish the
purpose ; but where a colony is already feeble, and it is desir-
able to build it up rapidly, no disagreeable work should be
imposed upon the bees to perform, for it will task their ener-
gies sufficiently to provide pollen, water, and do the feeding
and nursing necessary for successful brood-rearing. A strong
colony will accomplish in a few hours that which would em-
barrass a weak colony for nearly a whole season.

ANTS IN THE APIARY,

These are sometimes troublesome in the apiary. The fol-
lowing remedy is practiced an recommended by Mr. A. B
McLavy: ‘“ With a weeding hoe, clear the ground in and
around the yard of weeds and tufts of grass ; in a day or two,
the ants will have established a trail from their beds to the
hives. By this means you can readily trace them home.
To a five-gallon can of water, add, say, ten ounces of cyanide
of potassium, and let it dissolve ; with a trowel dig gently in
the ant-bed until you find the nest, which will be known by
the white eggs. Then pour on the water, and make the dirt
into a thin mud right in the nest, pour the water on plenti-
fully, so as to effectually poison the very carth. By this
means you dispose of ants and queen ant, and unfit the larvee
for reproduction. You may miss destroying it at the first
trial, but will eventually clean them out. Keep the cyanide
of potash out of reach of children, as it is a violent poison.
It retails at the drug stores for about one dollar per pound.”

REMOVING PROPOLIS FROM THE HANDS.

We are often asked what will remove bee glue from the
hands. Alcohol or spirits of turpentine will do it; or a little
slacked lime kept in the bee house will be found convenient,
during the summer, to remove propolis from the hands.
Moisten the parts desired to be cleansed, then rub with wet
lime until the propolis is removed.

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HIVES AND SURPLUS HONEY RECEPTACLES.

WHAT HIVE TO US#.

Indefatigable industry is the peculiar characteristic of the
Bees. During the height of their harvest, they often sally
forth even before the rising of the orb of day, and when the
short twilight of evening has cast its somber mantle over the
face of nature, they may sometimes be scen returning to
their homes laden with sweets, which, but for their industry,
would be forever lost. Neither the scorching. rays of the
sun, nor wind, nor storm, will stop them ; they avail them-
selves of every moment that can be employed to advantage,
when the fields are decked with flowers containing the
precious nectar |

The Creator gave to the Bees no written law, but to guide
their labors, He imparted to them instinct to a surprising
degree. When the faded bloom and darkened horizon indi-
cate the approach of winter, they look to their hoarded stores
for sustenance till the early flowers of spring put in an
appearance.

As they provide abundantly, their keeper may reasonably
call for the surplus, after supplying their own necessities.—
For this he should supply them with a neat and comfortable
home, having all the conveniences for storing the precious
nectar in convenient and atiractive shape. It is, therefore,
a matter of some moment to decide what style of hive will
best accommodate them as well as their master.

A good hive will give the apiarist complete control of the
frames of comb, and afford no harbor for moths. It must
give sufficient room for the breeding apartment as well as for
surplus honey, and must admit of close scrutiny and easy
manipulation.

36 BEE CULTURE.

THE LANGSTROTH HIVE.

Though movable-frame hives were in use in Europe, in
rude form, as early as 1795, they were not at all practical
until the illustrious German, Dzierzon, invented a hive, in
1848, and our own distinguished and honored Langstroth, in
“ 1852, presented the world with one that has, with his
system of management, completely revolutionized bee-keeping
everywhere, making it a practical science.

The patent which was issued to the Rev. L. L. Langstroth
in 1852 expired in 1873, and there is now no patent either on
his hive or frame.

With the movable-frame hive, all the combs can be taken
out and replaced, or exchanged with other hives at. will,
without the least detriment to the bees. The combs having
a surplus of honey can be emptied with the Extractor, with-

Fig. 12.— Langstroth Hive.

out injury, and returned to the hive to be refilled,—thus
saving labor for the bees in making new combs, and honey
for their keeper.

The Queen can be found, examined, and, when necessary,
can be replaced by one more prolific, or one in some other
way more desirable; and artificial colonies can be made at
will, as we shall see hereafter. If a colony be weak, it can
be strengthened by giving it a frame or two of brood from
some other hive. In fact, the movable frame makes the
bee-keeper “ the master of the situation.”

, BEE CULTURE. 37

ALIGHTING BOARD FOR HIVE.

Some prefer the hive to have a Stand, to raise it from the
ground. The one illustrated here has a slanting alighting

Fie. 13.—Alighting-Board and Stand for Hive.

board to aid the bees in crawling up to the hive when
returning from the fields with a load.

THE LANGSTROTH FRAME.

The brood-frames used in the Langstroth hive measure
94x17§ inches, outside, and are made with a V-shaped top-
bar as shown in the engraving.

Fie. 14.—The Langstroth Frame.

When the Langstroth hive was invented, it had frames
for surplus honey similar to. the brood-frames, but one-half
their depth, and were used above a honey-board having
holes bored in it, to admit the bees to the surplus
apartment.

38 BEE CULTURE.

THE PRODUCTION OF CHOICE HONEY.

In no country on the face of the earth is honey produced,
either in ancient or modern times, that can excel that
produced in North America. Nature has supplied this vast
Continent with honey-sources as varied and plenteous as
can be found anywhere in the world. And within the past
few years, many improved methods and appliances have
been invented for the increased production of honey, as well
as to multiply the volume and vastly enrich the quality of
«the product. Simultaneously with these improvements, we
find the consequent increased consumption. Heretofore it
was a luxury, enjoyed only by a few—but now it takes its
place among staple articles. Improved management, as
well as increased production, has brought the price down
to that which can be afforded by every family.

HONEY IN THE COMB.

Not only have we forsaken the log-gums and rude straw
and box hives of our fathers, and given these busy little
workers a neater home, with movable frames to contain
their combs, but we have taught them to store their surplus
honey in small sectional-frames, so that it can be easily

California Frame. Nailed Section. Dovetailed Section.

Fic. 15.—Honey Frames and Sections.

taken from the hives when full, and marketed in convenient
shape, suited to the requirements of retail purchasers.

The first improvement was to get the surplus honey in
“boxes” holding two or more combs. Then came the
«California frames,” invented by Mr. J. 8. Harbison, which
were made something like the standing brood-frames, only
they were about 6x6 inches in size, and the sides and top
were 1} inches wide, with narrower bottoms. (Fig. 15 a.)

Honey-Comb Coral.

NOSNIHOLAH ‘Z ‘M ‘LOOY TF

LE ee eS |

BEE CULTURE. 39

The first «shoney-boxes” were made to hold scveral combs
about six inches square. A. G. Hill, of Indiana, conceived
the idea of inserting «comb guides” two inches apart, and
then sawing about half way through these boxes, between
the “guides,” so that the retailer could, with a knife, cut
the combs apart, without injuring the honey-combs.

About the same time, Geo. T. Wheeler, of New York,
invented honey-boxes for single combs, having wood tops
and bottoms, and glass ends; and when taken off the hives
(where full-sized, tin separators were used) the sides were
also glassed. The bee-entrance was a ‘‘slot” in the bottoms.

Then N. N. Betsinger, of New York, invented the honey
box (Fig. 15 0) made by nailing 2x} inch sides to 1}x} inch
tops and bottoms, to be used with tin separators, and
glassed on the sides after being taken from the hives.
These were to hold two pounds of honey.

Then A. I. Root, of Ohio, made one-pound sections, eight
of them, 44x4} inches, to fit a ‘wide frame” (Fig. 24) of
the same size as the Langstroth brood-frame. These were
of }-inch wood all around, and ‘dovetailed ;” the sides
being 2 inches, and the tops and bottoms 1} inches wide,
leaving room for the bees to enter between every two—to
be used with tin separators 3} inches wide.

After the four-piece dovetailed sections before mentioned,
Prof. Cook used berry-box stuff bent to shape around a
block, and nailed. Then several attempts were made to get
the sections made in one-piece ; but that was not perfected
until about 1880, in Watertown, Wis., when the present
one-piece section with V-groove was perfected.

For years these two-pound sections were the favorites for
marketing comb honey—but they are now nearly driven
from the market by the one-piece sections holding one
pound of honey, and measuring 44x44 inches, outside.

a a a

a a

Fie. 16.— One-Piece, One-Pound Honey Section.

This cut shows the 44x44 one-piece section, the grooves
being represented by a, a, a. These can be easily bent into
the shape of a box, by hand, but that can of course be done
much faster by machinery. (Fig. 26.)

40 BEE CULTURE.

SUPERS FOR USE WITHOUT SEPARATORS.

The engraving (Fig. 17) shows a Super containing 21 two-
pound sections, of the size to fit the Langstroth hive. It is
designed for obtaining honey in the comb, without the use
of separators. The sections for this arrangement are 1}

Fic. 17.—Super for Sections without Separators.

incnes wide, and will hold just the same quantity of honey
as the 2-inch sections when separators are used. In the
absence of separators, of course the sections should be filled
with comb foundation, in order to secure straight combs,
and such as may be packed in the crates for marketing
without interfering with one another.

As these “stories” are arranged with a j-inch space over
the sections, they may be ‘tiered up” when desired.

Fie. 18.—Super for One-Pound Sections.

The second engraving shows a Super containing 28 one
pound sections, also fitting the top of the Langstroth hive,
and to be used without separators.

The above described and illustrated Supers, can be made
for any of the various styles of hives in use, by simply
varying the size to suit the hive.

BEE CULTURE. 41

SHIPPING CRATES FOR COMB HONEY.

This Crate holds two tiers of one-pound sections. A stout
sheet of manilla paper should be cut the right size and

Fig. 19.—Shipping Crate for 24 one-pound Sections.

placed between the tiers, to prevent any leakage that might
occur from combs being broken in transit; this will prevent
any leakage from injuring the sections below.

Fic. 20.—Shipping Crate for 12 one-pound Sections.

The above Crate holds 12 one-pound Sections, with glass
on the end instead of the side. The inside measure of this
Crate is just 12 inches in length; carrying two rows of
sections of either width, 6 to the foot or 7 to the foot.

Fie. 21.—Shipping Crate for 12 two-pound Sections.

This Crate holds one dozen, two-pound Sections. Either
the ‘‘crate” or the «sections ”” may be glassed.

42 BEE CULTURE.

SUPERS REQUIRING SEPARATORS.

The engraving shows the seven-inch story, as used on the
Langstroth hive (with one of the seven wide frames raised)

Fig. 22.—Story for Wide Frames, with Separators.

with the three two-pound sections (5}x6}) and tin separator
fastened to the frame, as shown in the next engraving.

Wide frames, as well as the seven-inch story, are a part
of the hive—only the sections being sold with the honey.

This engraving shows a frame, 2 inches in width, of the
ordinary size of a Langstroth frame, and holds 8 sections
(Fig. 16), with tin separators between them—for use at the
sides of the brood-chamber, or above it.

BEE CULTURE. 43

The Comb-Honey Rack holds 18 two-pound sections, with
separators between them, marked B in the engraving. The
wedge (A) holds all with a vise-like grasp. The outer

Fig. 25.—Comb-Honey Rack, with Separators.

sections are glassed (C) as they stand on the hive. By
removing the wedge (A) any section may be instantly
removed, examined, returned, or replaced by an empty one
—the spaces between the rows readily admitting the fingers
for that purpose.

Two-pound Sections, with a tight top-bar (2 inches wide)
are used in the Comb-honey Rack (Fig. 25) ; those used in
wide frames (Fig. 23) have the top and bottom bars only 13
inches wide—the wide frame being 2 inches in width,
prevents any bees from going above it.

ULY 2. 337
Fic. 26.—Machine to Press Sections into Shape.

Sections can be nively and rapidly put into proper shape
by the use of the press shown in the above engraving.

Some time since, we saw a large lot of beautiful honey
put up in all sorts of odds and ends, intended to represent
sections. The apiarist evidently had these sections on hand,
or bought them at half-price, and in a spirit of wasteful
frugality, determined to use them rather than pay a fair
price for a neat, attractive section. He undoubtedly lost
enough time in assorting and arranging them to have paid
for a good article. His economy cost him just four cents
per pound on his honey. That was extravagant economy !

44 BEE CULTURE.

TIN POINTS FOR GLASSING SECTIONS.

Two tin points should be inserted in the top-bar of the
section, one-eighth of an inch from the edge, and the same
in the bottom-bar. Between. these the glass may be
inserted, bending down the tin points closely
to it; the sides being full 2 inches in width,
while the top and bottom are 4 of an inch
less on either side—the glass will make all
even. The glass may be taken off at pleasure,
by simply straightening up the tin points.

Some paste paper over the joints, to keep
the package air-tight. However desirable the latter may
be, the paper is a positive detriment, for it soon becomes
covered with fly-specks and dirt, thus rendering it quite
unattractive to the purchaser.

The above directions are for sections used in wide frames
(Fig. 23.) Those with the tight top-bar, used in the Comb-
honey Rack (Fig. 25) are fastened with the tin points at the
bottom, as before described, and at the top by having a tin
point inserted outside of the glass.

REVERSIBLE BROOD FRAMES.

The engraving represents the reversible
brood-frame made by Mr. James Heddon.
Many devices have been presented to
reverse the frames, but this is as good as
any, where reversing is desired.

PLIERS FOR HANDLING FRAMES.

Frame Pliers, for taking frames out of hives, or moving
them in any way desired, are made of Japanned iron, with

Fie. 27.—Pliers for Handling Frames.

a long claw for loosening frames, and a hook which may be
used to carry other frames besides that held by the Pliers.

A, Exit. C, Entrance. A, Exit. C, Entrance.
Reese Bee-Escape—Top View. Liussell. Bee-Escape—Under Side.

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BEE CULTURE,

PRODUCTION AND CARE OF HONEY.

PREPARATION FOR THE MARKET.

o

The Arabs, it is stated, obtained their knowledge of
Astronomy while crossing the trackless desert, being com-
pelled to observe very closely the position of the stars to
guide them in their journey. Just so should the bee-keeper
closely watch the continual and varied changes that occur in
the demands of the public concerning the preparation of
honey for the market. Instead of settling down to the con-
clusion that, in reference to marketing honey he knows it all,
he should be careful to observe what dealers and consumers
demand, and then at once, freely and fully meet the require-
ments of the trade. In this way only, can he become a suc-
cessful apiarist.

The progressive producer of this God-given sweet is never
surprised to find that the methods of preparing honey for the
market, which were acceptable during one season, are behind
the times for the next, and require modifications or improve-
ments iu order to keep pace with the public requirements.

HOW SHOULD HONEY BE MARKETED ?

It should never be forgotten that honey of good quality,
and in ang of the popular packages, will command the highest
price, and be in.constantdemand. Such tempt the purchaser,
and cause a steady demand.

The marketing of honey is a subject that interests every
apiarist. In order that honey may be sold readily, it MUST BE
ATTRACTIVE! Has it never> occurred to the reader to
inquire why bolts of muslin are labeled with pictures of
luscious fruit? Or why boxes of' fancy toilet articles are
adorned with lithographs of enchanting faces with bewitching

48 BEE CULTURE.

smiles ? Answers to such questions offer us instructive
lessons that will pay for the learning! Manufacturers know
full well that in order to have their goods sell readily, they
must be attractive! No matter how good the quality, nor
how cheap the price—they must attract and please the eye !

To-day, comb-honey is the preference for table use, and if
we would cater to the public want, we must produce that
article in the most attractive shape. This must be arrived
at by growth! We could not obtain ‘‘the most desirable
shape” at one bound, but may approximate perfection !

No product of field or farm varies so much in price as
honey; and why? Because of the unattractive manner in
which some put it upon the market. It only requires to be
attractively put up, to find ready sale at remunerative
prices. If we meet the requirements of consumers, there
will be a demand for all the honey produced in America.

As the articles for sauce decrease in the fall, the thrifty
house-keeper looks around for something to take its place
besides canned fruit. Honey is just the thing she desires ;
and it only remains for us to convince the millions of house-
keepers of that fact, for the demand to increase and grow
astonishingly—if the supply be kept up attractively.

One great question, towering far above all others in
importance, is: ‘+How to dispose of honey to the best
advantage.” In vain do we talk of the best hives—the
best implements for every department of the apiary. In
vain do we toil and labor from morn till eventide, manipu-
lating our pets and their surroundings. In vain do we tell
of the large amount of honey stored away in our honey
houses. Vain is all this, if we cannot dispose of it to
advantage and thus reap the reward of our well doing.

ASSORT AND GRADE THE HONEY.

All honey should be graded, and a scale of prices be
established. Now, one compelled by his needs, may sell
honey at the commencement of the season for any price
offered, and thus unintentionally break down the market,
by giving a start at too lowarate. Systematic organization
could and should help this state of affairs. Some State
Conventions have appointed committees to grade and then
dispose of the honey of the members. If this were done in
every State or district, we should hear no more of the
markets being broken down by premature and forced sales.

NIVPW “M 'N ‘AOU

ASAOd NHHdMHLS ‘ATY

Vy

BEE CULTURE. 49

MANAGEMENT OF COMB HONEY.

Comb honey should be taken from the hive as soon as it
is finished, or as soon thereafter as possible. ‘+ No apiarist
can expect to have his honey sell for the highest market
price,” says G. M. Doolittle, “if he allows it to stay in the
hives for weeks after it has been sealed over, allowing the
bees to give the combs a dirty yellow color, by constantly
traveling over it. All comb-honey producers know that
there always will be cells next to the section that are partly
filled with honey but not sealed over, and when taken from
the hive, if the section is turned over sidewise, the honey,
being thin, will run out, making sticky work. The remedy
for this is a small, warm room. Bees evaporate their honey
by heat, and therefore, if we expect to keep our honey in
good condition for market, we must keep it as the bees do,
in such a position that it will grow thicker, instead of
thinner all the while. Our honey room is situated on the
south side of our shop, and is about 7 feet square, by 9 feet
high. We have a large window in it, and the whole south
side is painted a dark color, to draw the heat. In it the
mercury stands from 80° to 90°, while our honey is in it;
and when we crate it for market, we can tip our sections as
much as we please and no honey will drip, neither will any
of the combs have a watery appearance—all will be bright,
dry and clean. But if we keep honey thus warm, the moth
will make its appearance, and make it unfit for market, by
gnawing off the sealing from our beautiful combs.

«We build a platform on either side of our honey room,
of scantling, about 16 inches high, and on this we place the
sections so that the fumes from burning sulphur can enter
each one; in about 2 weeks we fumigate, by burning 3 of a
pound of sulphur for every 200 cubic feet in the room. We
take coals from the stove and put them in an old kettle, so
as not to get anything on fire ; pour on the sulphur and push
it under the pile of honey, and shut up the room. Watch
through the window, and in 15 minutes after the last fly or
bee that chances to be in the room has died, open the door
and let out the smoke, for if it stands too long, the smoke
may settle on the combs and give them a greenish hue. As
there may be a few eggs that have not yet hatched, we
fumigate again in about 10 days, after which the honey will
be free from moths, if you do not let millers into the room.”

50 BEE CULTURE.

HANDLING AND SHIPPING.

It has been estimated that the surplus honey product of
America amounts to seventy-five millions of pounds ; there-
fore, the placing of this enormous product upon the market
is a subject of vast importance to honey producers. Any
method that will add one cent per pound to the marketable
value, is worth to them three-quarters of a million of dollars ;
and any error of management, causing a reduction of one cent
per pound, is to them a corresponding loss! We should
ascertain what the market demands, and then diligently
apply ourselves to the work, in order to reap the reward of
“well doing,” and rejoice in the labor of our hands.

Honey in the comb is a luxury—a fancy article—and our
first care should be to produce it in such a manner as to com-
mand a fancy price. It must captivate the eye of the con-
sumer, and tempt him to purchase. To this end comb honey
should be put up in single-comb sections, all combs being
straight and evenly built, and labeled with the kind of bloom
which produced it, giving the producer's name and address.
It should be put up in uniform crates, and not veneered, 7. e.,
the combs inside should be just as good as those on the ex-
terior of the crate. Small packages sell the most readily;
twelve in a crate (fig. 20) is usually sufficient, and always the
most desirable for the jobbing trade.

The apiarist should give his personal attention to its
crating, grading and shipping, so that he may be positive as
to the details, should any question, involving these, be raised
by the consignee. The inexperienced and careless ones are
always a detriment, and sometimes ruin the market for their
more careful and experienced neighbors. They take an
inferior grade of honey, put up in irregular and soiled packa-
ges, to market early, just to get a little money, and sell for
any price offered; and this often settles the price for that
locality and season, and the attractive honey is either sacri-
ficed to their carelessness, or shipped to another market.

If shipped away to market, it must not be packed in straw
or chaff ; but put in small crates containing a single tier (fig.
20), and placed with the top bar downwards, which is the
strongest way, and will prevent much breaking down. Ship

BEE OCULTURE. 51

by freight, for the expressage will be so high that it will
take off all the profits, and is, in nearly all cases, liable to do
as much damage as when sent by freight. See to its pack-
ing in the car, wagon or vehicle, and place the combs length-
wise to the engine, but crosswise to the horses, and give
direction not to have it unloaded on trucks, but invariably to
be unloaded by hand.

WHAT TO DO WITH CANDIED COMB HONEY.

When honey becomes old and candied in the combs, it can-
not be removed by the Honey Extractor, and inquiries are
made as to what to do with it. This is Mrs. L. Harrison’s
method: “The honey was mashed up in a pan, and set over
a kettle of boiling water, and stirred frequently. Before the
honey was very hot, the wax had risen to the surface, and
being set out in the cold, quickly congealed, so that the warm
honey could be poured from under it, through a coffee strainer
into another vessel, leaving the wax in the pan. After the
honey was melted, the wax was all melted up together, and
considerable honey of inferior quality was under it, which can
be kept separate and be used for cooking, making ginger-
bread, ete. ‘che rinsings of vessels used in manipulating the
honey, will make excellent vinegar. The wax can be melted
in a pan over boiling water, and should be poured, when
melted, through a hot coffee strainer, and when cool, will be
of a light straw color.”

MANAGEMENT OF EXTRACTED HONEY.

The marketing of extracted honey is an important matter,
for a good article, attractively put up, will always command
the best price, and it is, therefore, of the utmost importance
to producers to have honey put up in the best shape.

None but a thoroughly good article should be produced or
placed on the market, as the price depends on the quality.
A good article ot extracted honey has excellent qualities,
which, when well known, will commend it to all consumers,
and is equal in every respect to the very best article of comb
honey.

It is very gratifying to know that extracted honcy is now
produced to a much larger extent than ever before. Without

52 BEE CULTURE,

saying anything to the disparagement of comb honey, we may
say that we think it will become a staple only in the extracted
form. Its excellent qualities, when better understood, will
bring it into almost universal favor.

Every bee-keeper should fully supply his own locality, and
he should let it be distinctly understood that it is the pure
honey taken from the combs by centrifugal foree—that nothing
is added to it, and nothing taken from it but the comb—that
it is not the old-fashioned “strained honey,” which was
obtained by being taken from mashed brood-combs, and
“strained” from dead bees, pollen, &c., but that it is the
pure liquid gathered from the flowers, which will give health
to the body, force to the mind, and strength to the intellect
of those who use it.

It should also be kept before consumers that granulated
honey can be reduced to its liquid state in a few moments by
placing the honey in a jar in warm water. When thus
liquefied, it so remains for some time before again crystal-
lizing. Consumers may be sure of a wholesome article by
purchasing granulated honey and reducing it.

Mr. Heddon used earthen crocks holding about ten pounds,
and he likes them very well; it is very convenient to take
the honey from them when it is candied, or to liquefy it by
placing the crock in warm water.

If the product is for a home market, then, of course, the
producer must study the local preference regarding the size
and style of package, as well as the grade of honey most
easily disposed of. As far as practicable, keep each grade
of honey separate ; it is a mistake to suppose a few pounds of
inferior or different shade honey will make no difference in a
large bulk of white clover honey, or that thereby a better
rate will be obtained for the second grade article. Instead,
the result will most likely be to class it all as second grade,
and the price of all will be depreciated. Again, if possible,
keep the white clover and basswood honey separate. In
order to do this, keep a vigilant watch of the basswood bloom,
and extract the white clover quite close before the bees com-
mence gathering from the former. <A little clover in the
basswood honey, however, will not do the harm that would
result if the proportions were reversed. After the basswood

BEE CULTURE. 53

harvest is all gathered by the bees, extract it closely, for it
will not do to taint any other honey, even though it be from
fall flowers and somewhat darker, with its aromatic flavor.

TIN PAILS FOR HONEY.

For retail packages, tin pails (fig. 28), with close-fitting
covers, are the best. Purchased by the gross or in lots of
1,000 or more, the price is so inconsiderable that no
consumer will object to paying what they cost, in addition
to the price of honey, for they are so ‘handy to have in the
house” that not one in a hundred would return the pail.

To hold 3 pounds, 5 pounds. 10 pounds,

Fie. 28.—Straight Pails. .«

A neatly printed label should be gummed or pasted on
each Pail, stating the amount and kind of honey, name of
apiarist by whom put up, and giving in a foot-note directions
for liquefying the honey in case it granulates.

To hold 25 pounds. 7 pounds,
Fig. 28.—Tapering Pails.
They are heavier and stronger than the straight Pails;

the covers are deeper and the top-edge of the Pail is doubled
over. A smaller size is also made to hold about one pound.

54 BEE CULTURE,

If smaller packages are wanted, then use glass jars (fig. 29)
or tumblers. These are always worth their cost in the family
—the former for pickles, catsups, and a thousand other uses,
while the latter are equally appreciated for their convenience
in putting up jellies, ete. Jars and tumblers, like the tin
pails, shonld be tastefully put up and labeled.

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For a retail market, excellence of goods should be the
prime consideration, but the attractiveness of the package
should never be lost sight of. Manufacturers of adulterated
goods, of nearly every description, depend more upon effect-
ing sales by the employment of attractive packages and taste-
ful, pretentious labels than upon the excellence of the pre-
tended article sold. In this respect, bee-keepers have been
wofully negligent, and many have appeared wholly indifferent
as to the appearance of their honey, seeming to imagine that
their personal assurance to the grocer of the purity of the
article, was sufficient to convince the public of its desirable-
ness.

BEE CULTURE. 55

If the extracted honey be destined for a metropolitan or
foreign market, an entirely different method of putting it
up should be employed. There is nothing more convenient,
attractive or economical than syuare tin cans, or small kegs

Fig. 30.—Small Kegs for Honey.

made of pine. The soft-wood kegs need no waxing. If
thoroughly drenched with water a few hours before using,
no leakage will take place.

The square tin Cans furnish excellent packages for safely
shipping extracted honey. Each Can holds about 60 pounds,
and two of them may be shipped together in one crate, as
seen in the engraving to the right. There is no leakage in

a

Dian

Fie. 31.—Square Cans for Shipping Extracted on

transit, if even moderately well handled. A stick one inch
square should be placed over cach Can, before nailing the
cover down.

56 BEE CULTURE.

Barrels are too heavy and cumbersome for convenient
handling, and too large for rapid sales. No hard-wood
barrel is safe to put honey in, till after it has been thoroughly
waxed. Taking into account the value of the wax and time
consumed in applying it, together with the price of the
barrel, the cans or kegs are the cheapest, without considering
their convenience and less liability of leakage. As the
jobber never pays for the barrel, the shipper should use the
cheapest—if the best.

Many times jobbers and commission dealers decline small
sales, rather than furnish smaller packages and give the
time requisite for dividing up a large barrel of honey. The
time is rapidly approaching when there will be a discrimi-
nation of atleast one cent per pound in favor of the small
packages, for the finer grades of extracted honey, whether
for retailing or manufacturing purposes.

HONEY MUST BE RIPENED.

The nectar gathered from the flowers cannot be called
honey until the evaporation and ripening process has so far
gone on that the bees have commenced capping it over. If
it be extracted before it is capped by the bees, as some
apiarists recommend, on account of the quantity being
thereby greatly augmented, then it should be ripened before
it is placed in tight packages or shipped, or it is liable to fer-
ment and sour. —

The bee-keepers of California find it necessary to extract
the honey as fast as it is gathered, but they thoroughly ripen
it. Mr. Gridley thus describes his plan of ripening honey :

mT A

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Fia. 32.—Honey Evaporator.

“ The honey from the extractor runs through a galvanized
iron pipe (one-and-a-fourth inch) drain, a distance of fifty
feet, emptying into a pan, 3x6 feet, four inches deep, made
in this manner: This pan is put into a wooden case and
covered with a glass sash ; set it at an angle of about forty-

BEE OULTURE. 57

five degrees. The honey runs around these partitions, back
and forth, a distance of one-hundred feet before it reaches
the outlet at the further end; from there it passes through
ten feet of pipe into the tank, containing one ton. By the
time it reaches the tank, the water is pretty well evaporated.”

METAL CORNERS FOR CRATE COVERS.

Mr. W. H. Fletcher, of Sauk Rapids, Minn., has made a
very simple little contrivance for attaching to the corners of

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Fie. 33.—Metal Corners for Crate Covers.

erate covers. These can be made of tin, require no especial
ingenuity to manufacture, are easily tacked on the corners of
the covers, and will be found very convenient by the grocer
or family to hold the cover exactly in place, thereby effect-
ually excluding flies and bees from the honey. Fig. 33
illustrates a section of the crate and cover with the tin corner
attached.

PUTTING THE GLASS IN THE SECTIONS.

This is not such an easy matter to do, especially without
some tool to drive in the tin points. Mr. C. Wurster, of
Canada, has made a tool to do this (fig. 34), the use of which
he describes as follows: “‘When using the tool, the section
must be laid down flat, lay the glass on, and the side of the
section you wish to drive the points in should be nearest you,

58 BER CULTURE.

then with your left hand hold the section and glass in place,
and with the left hand thumb to steady the tool, having, as
will be noticed, one jaw shorter, which must be facing the
glass in front of it, keeping the tool close to the edge of the

Fic. 54.—Toul for Glassing Sections.

glass, and, while pressing down with the left fore-finger, press
the glass against the tool, or at least from pushing it off in
case a point isa little faulty and sometimes apt to bend.

\ HONEY AS A COMMERCIAL PRODUCT.

With a ready and anxious market for our comb honey in
England, France, Germany, China and Japan, as eager
consumers of American extracted honey, all fears of over-
stocking the market are happily set at rest, and the time is
not far distant when prices will be as quotable, and as gener-
ally uniform as for any other product. Nor need we fear a
divided market by reason of Foreign competition, for no
country in Europe is so greatly favored by nature for honey
producing as is the United States, and none produces honey
of finer quality.

Time was when prejudice militated greatly against our
sales abroad, but the cultivation of fraternal relations with
our friends in Foreign lands, and the assurance of friendly
feelings and honorable transactions, have turned their honest
prejudice into esteem, and their jealousy into generous co-
operation.

Our faith in the future of honey as a staple article, like
butter, cheese and eggs, is strong and invincible. To this
we have devoted our time, energies and means, and we are
fully aware that all our “ earnest work,” as well as that of
our co laborers, will be rewarded. Let us all be wide awake
—for “the day of prosperity” for our chosen avocation is
just dawning.

‘ONT

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(Side View.) HONEY EVAPORATOR. (End View.)

Mcthod for Fastening Foundation in Sections,

BEE CULTURE, 59

MANAGEMENT OF AN APIAKY.

LUCK OR SCIENTIFIC MANAGEMENT.

While some are said to be lucky with bees—others could
never have any luck with them. Some will not sell their
bees, others will not even give them away! Still others will
neither sell nor give them away, but will allow them to be
stolen, if sufficient money be left on the stand to cover their
value. Some superstitious ones contend that when a member
of the family dies, some one must go and whisper it fo the
bees or they will do no good afterwards. A host of other
whims could be arrayed, belonging to the age of superstition.
Practical knowledge is the only secret of success. Stock-
growers say, if they want to raise good stock they must attend
to them, and administer to their wants. This is precisely the
case with bees, and is the sole secret of that success which
the ignorant and lazy ascribe to luck.

THE ITALIAN BEES.

Briefly stated, their superiority is thus demonstrated :

1. They have longer tongues and gather honey from the
flowers where black bees cannot.

2. They are more industrious and persevering, and with
the same opportunity will gather much more than black bees.

3. They work earlier and later in the day, as well as in
the season, often gathering stores when the blacks are idle.

4, They are better to guard their hives against robbers,
and proof against the ravages of the bee moth’s larve.

5. They are more prolific in the spring, and are less liable
to breed in the winter.

6. Queens adhere more tenaciously to the comb.

7. They are amiable, and it is easy to manipulate them.

60 BEE CULTURE.

ITALIANIZING OF THE APIARY.

To do this, a tested Italian queen (Fig. J) should be ob.
tained from some RELIABLE dealer or brecder, and introduced
into one of the best colonies of the apiary. or, as the queen
is the mother of the colony, to change queens is to change the
whole character of the colony in a short space of time. To
successfully

INTRODUCE A QUEEN

it will be necessary to find the queen to be superseded and
take her away. A black queen being easily frightened, will
hide or run away to some corner, therefore it is best to pro-
cecd cautiously and without jarring.

In the middle of the day, when the old bees are at work,
open the hive, taking out the centre frame, examine both
sides, and if the queen is not there, proceed with the adjacent
frames till she is found. If not successful the first time,

Fia. 35.—Muandible of Queen, yreatly magnified.

close the hive an hour or two, till the hees become quiet, and
then repeat the operation. An Italian queen would be easily
found, but the blacks are more troublesome. When found,
either destroy her or make such other disposition of her as
may be desired ; cage the Italian queen and insert it between
two combs containing honey which the queen may be able ta
reach at pleasure,

BEE CULTURE. 61

Fig. 36 gives a good illustration of a piece of furniture
that will be found very useful in an apiary. It isa stand on
which to hang the first frames removed from a hive, when an
examination of it is made. It was made by Mr. J.-M. Val-
entine, who describes it so minutely that one can readily make
it. Usually the first frames are leaned against the hive,
standing upon the ground, and more or less bees are injured.
With this “Stand,” they are hung up, entirely out of danger.

Fie. 36.—Valentine’s Frame Stand.

“The uprights are 1}xf, 24 inches high; a piece 1 inch
square runs across the top for a handle to lift it by and to hold
the top together. Two inches below the top-bar are hooks on
both sides, so as to hang on two frames if desirable. Four
inches below the bottom of the frames (when suspended on
the hooks) is a shelf 12 inches wide, to which the uprights
are nailed. This makes a nice place on which to lay cages,
ete. Under this shelf is a drawer 6x8, that draws out on
either side, in which I keep a dozen queen cages, a sharp-
pointed knife, and a small pair of scissors.”

In about 48 hours release the queen upon one of the combs,

62 BEE CULTURE.

and see how she is received. If she is attacked by the bees,
molesting her wings and legs, return her to the cage for
another 36 hours, after which she will, no doubt, be accepted.
Queen cells, if any have been started, should be destroyed.
Another plan, and one that is regularly practiced in our
aplary with uniform success, is to make the colony queenless
for 24 hours, and then with an Atomizer (Fig. 37) throw a
fine spray of peppermint water over both the queen and bees,
letting the queen loose upon one of the central combs, and
close up the hive. The pepermint water makes the bees

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Fie. 37.—Atomizer, for Spraying Bees.

and queen of the same scent, and, almost invariably, she is
received with favor. The spray is so FINE, that it is not the
least detriment either to the bees, comb, brood or honey.
With a valuable queen, where it is not desired to take the
least risk, a new colony may be formed, by taking hatching
brood from several hives. Being aL young bees, the queen
will be unmolested This may be done with perfect safety.

INSERTING A QUEEN CELL.

A ripe queen cell will almost invariably be received with
favor by a queenless colony. Of course all other queen cells
must be destroyed.

Fig. 38 shows a queen cell finished and sealed, containing
an embryo queen. ‘The orifice @ is capped, and the cell-walls
are thickened preparatory to being extended in the direction
of the dotted lines 8 b.

When the embryo queen is nearly mature, within 12 to 16
hours of emerging, the bees begin to demolish the exterior
compartment (Fig. 38, b b), reducing it to a level with the
outer edge of the cap of the cell proper (Fig. 38, a). The con-

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vex cap, being then very prominent, is liable to be injured ;
and, to protect it, the bees coat it with a fresh layer of wax,
making it nearly as thick as the cell walls. Fig. 39 shows
the cell as scen after the anterior compartment has been re-
moved, exhibiting the convex cap a.

Fie. 38.—Finished Queen Cell, sealed over.

The young queen pierces a hole through the edge of the
cover (Fig. 39, a) with her mandibles (Fig. 35), and then
makes a circular cut along its periphery. Being thus de-
tached from the cell walls, the cap drops, opening a circular
passage, through which the queen emerges.

To cut a queen cell out, commence on each side of the base
of the cell, not nearer than half an inch, and cut upwards a
wedge-shaped piece (see Fig. 11), being careful not to squeeze

Fie. 39.—A Ripe Queen Cell.

or even to handle the base of the cell. A similar wedge-
shaped piece must be cut out of the frame of comb that it is
desired to put the cell into. Then carefully place the celi
into the hole thus made, fitting it securely in position ; place
the frame into the hive and close it up.

64 BEE CULTURE.

MAKING NUCLEI COLONIES.

Nuclei are made by taking two or more frames, as may
be desired (at least one of which should contain brood),
with adhering bees, and the frame, already furnished as
described, with a queen-cell, and shaking into the hive the
bees from one or more frames, so that there may be enough
young bees to remain after the old bees have returned to
their former hives, to keep the temperature sufficiently high
to hatch out the brood, as well as to care for the emerging
Queen. In making up nuclei colonies be sure not to take
away the Queen with any of the frames, else the cell will be
destroyed, and all their labor lost.

It is better to use the regular frames for nuclei hives, and
either use the ordinary hives with a division-board (Fig. 40)
to contract the brood-chamber, and economize the heat, or
make small hives just to suit the number of frames used.

a

Fic. 40.—Division Board.

Many inquire wheth2r there is any patent on the ordinary
division-board, or not. We say emphatically, No / One
man claims a patent on a division-board fitted up with
“woolen” or ‘‘rubber strips,” at the sides, and “ lugs,” or
feet at the bottom. No one need fear to use the ordinary
‘“«division-board.” A board of one piece is neither patented
nor patentable !

As the virgin Queen emerges from the nucleus to meet
the drones, sometimes the bees will accompany her if they
have no unsealed brood. To prevent this, two or three
days after the Queens are hatched, insert a frame containing
eges and young larve in each nucleus. If the Queen should
be lost on her bridal tour, the materials will be on hand for
the bees to rear another, if it is unnoticed by the apiarist.

BEE CULTURE, 65

When the nuclei colonics are formed, put them away in
the shade, and in two or three days the Queen will be
hatched, and a week or ten days later will become fertilized,
and be laying; this may be readily discovered upon exami-
nation. Now the apiarist is ready for the formation of
new colonies, without the inconvenience of natural
swarming, by

DIVIDING THE COLONIES.

Bees swarm because it is their natural manner of increase.
By dividing them we secure the increase without swarming,
and save time in watching and hiving natural swarms.
This, however, must not be overdone. The beginner some-
times imagines that by dividing he can make almost any
number of colonies from each one, forgetting that strong
colonies are the only ones that accomplish anything.
Dividing should never be done unless the colony be very
populous, and can well spare the bees andcombs. To more
than dowbdle the number of colonies each season is not good,
unless increase is desired at the expense of honey.

Some divide their strong colonies equally, or nearly so,
earefully looking for the Queen, putting her into the new
hive, placing bees and brood in the centre, filling up with
frames coutaining comb foundation (Fig. 69), removing the
hive with the Queen to a new location ; leaving the queen-
less colony on the old stand, to rear for itself a Queen from
the brood it possesses. Ifthe Queen be a choice one, and it
is desired to get Queens from her, itis a good plan to get
the queen-cells started for the nuclei, as before described.

Ordinarily, we prefer the nucleus plan of multiplying
colonies. Take one of the nucleus hives before described
(which should be of the same pattern and size as those to
be divided), and remove the division-board. Then take a
frame containing brood and adhering bees from each
colony, placing them into the nucleus until it is full. Be
sure not to take the queenaway from any colony. The bees
that will hatch out in a few days will make that nucleus a
populous colony. Put a frame nearly filled with comb
foundation (Fig. 69) into each hive from which the frame
of brood was taken, and in a few days they will have this
all worked out into beautiful comb ; and, in all probability,
filled with eggs.

66 BEE CULTURE.

The new colony having a young and fertile queen, and plenty
of bees, will soon rival the old one in the vigor of its work
Each of the nuclei can be built up in this way, giving a new
colony every few days—or, if the apiary be large, several every
day—and thus effectually prevent swarming. Increase being
secured in this way, none of the colonies are disturbed, and
the bees everywhere ‘pursue the even tenor cf their way.”
All being kept strong in numbers they are ready for the
honey harvest, and will work in boxes very willingly.

Dividing should be done in the middle of the day, when the
bees are busy in the fields and the yield of honey is abundant.

Another plan practiced with success, is to take away the
division hoard in the nucleus hive, fill the frames with comb
foundation (Fig. 29), and exchange places with a populous
colony, caging the queen of the nucleus for about 36 hours,
or until her acquaintance has been made by the strange bees
that come pouring into it from the fields—for bees will always
return to the exact spot occupied by their home.

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Fie. 41.—Davis’ Queen Nursery.

To raise queens for the purpose of Italianizing an apiary,
the Queen Nursery (Fig. 41), invented by Dr. Jewell Davis,
may be used with success. Put into the cages of the nursery,
between the tins, a few cells of sealed honey, in new comb if
possible. Then cut from the combs of a pure Italian colony as
many queen cells, large and well developed, as you have pre-

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BEE CULTURE, 67

pared cages with the honcy, as above. Suspend one of the
cells in each of the cages. Good care should be taken to have
the best cells, and not injured by bruising, handling or jarring.
Having thus supplied each cage of the nursery with a queen-
cell and food—the food is thus supplied that the young queens
may not starve if the bees do not feed them, a thing they
often fail to dowhen there is a scarcity of honey in the flowers.
The nursery cages so prepared are adjusted in the nursery
frame. Then having removed a centre comb from a strong
black colony, the queen-nursery may be placed into the vacancy
made by the removal of the comb, there to remain until the
queens are hatched, which will be in 3 or 4 days, if the cells
were not cut from the combs too early, or before the 9th day.
When the queens have emerged from the cells, remove the
cage and introduce the caged queen to a black colony, libera-
ting her on the next day about sundown—if necessary, spray-
ing the bees with perfumed water by the atomizer (Fig. 37).

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Fie. 42.—Queen-Registering Slate.

To remember dates every one has not the faculty, and yet
all the operations of queen-rearing require that it should be
done. For instance, the time when a choice colony was made
queenless, to have queen cells started—the time these cells
are given to the nuclei—the time of hatching—when the
queens commence to lay, &. To save time and trouble in
remembering these and other dates, a small slate (Fig. 42),
3x4 inches, with a hole in the center of the top, should be
hung on the hive by a small nail with all these dates written
thereon. A printed card tacked on to the inside of the cap
is used by some to advantage, in keeping track of such dates.

If the dividing of colonies be neglected, or if it is not
desired to practice that method of increase, the bees will
become greatly crowded for room, and will necessarily

SWARM.

For some days before swarms issue the bees may be seen
clustering at the entrance of their hive, though some come

68 BEE CULTURE.

out where there are little or no indications of a swarm.
When honey is abundant, and bees plenty, look for them to
come forth at almost any time, from the hours of 10 in the
morning to 3 in the afternoon, for first swarms ; for second
and third swarms, from 7 in the morning until 4 in the
afternoon.

By examining the hive it can be ascertained whether they
are about to swarm or not. If queen-cells are seen with
eggs or larvae nearly ready to be sealed over, a swarm may
be expected within one or two days after the first cell is
sealed over, or as soon after as the weather will permit.

After whirling a few minutes in the air, the mass of the
bees will cluster on the branch of some convenient tree or
bush—generally one that is shaded from the sun’s rays.

They should be hived as soon as the cluster is formed,
else they may leave for the woods; or, if another colony
should cast a swarm while the first was clustered, they
would probably unite.

Should the Queen fail to join the bees, by reason of
having one of her wings clipped, or for any other cause, the
swarm will return to the hive, as soon as they make that
discovery. As the bees are gorged with honey, they may
be handled without fear of stings.

« After-swarms” being unprofitable, all but one of the
queen-cells should be destroyed, or cut out, as before
described, for nuclei—-this will prevent any more swarms
issuing. Within eight days, the first Queen will issue, and
finding that she has no rival she will take possession
of the hive, apparently having no idea of swarming.

To ascertain that she has no rival, she makes a peculiar
sound—called «‘piping.” If there is another Queen in the
cell nearly ready to emerge, it will answer by a “ piping”
sound. If this‘Queen, still in the cell, is protected by the
bees, so that the first Queen cannot find and destroy it, she
will also prepare to swarm within 2 or 3 days. After the
departure of this swarm, and the emerging of the second
Queen and her ‘‘piping” is also answered by a third Queen,
a third swarm may also issue.

If the desire to swarm is satisfied after the departure of
the first swarm, the queen-cells will be all destroyed by the
first young Qneen that emerges.

BEE CULTURE. 69

TroW TO ILIVE A SWARM.

If the cluster be low, it is easily performed. The queen
is usually in the lower part of the cluster, and by finding
“her majesty,” and placing her into a hive, which should be
placed conveniently near for tl:e purpose of hiving the swarm,
and with a dipper, or any other convenient vesscl, place the
bees down in front of the hive on a sheet, or picce of paper.
They will then crawl into the hive, and, finding the quecn,
be satisfied to remain. When the bees are in, place the hive
where it is to remain ; a shaded position will be the best. If
comb foundation (Fig. 29) be placed into the frames, it will
be of very great advantage in comb building.

If they have clustered on a branch or twig, a basket will
be quite essential, into which to shake or brush the bees. If
on a wall or fence, or on the trunk of a tree, brush them into
the basket, and proceed to hive as before described.

A frame of: brood and another of honey placed into the
new hive will be of much advantage to the bees. The
former will prevent the swarm from leaving the hive, and
should the qucen be lost, it will give them the means of
raising another, and the latter will give them a good start.
By filling the other ‘frames’ with comb foundation, (Fig. 29)
they will soon be in good condition and perfectly at home in
their new quarters. ~~

Sometimes a swarm will make for the woods without clus-
tering—but this is rarely the case.

The beating of tin pans, and all such old-fogy notions, is, of
course, of no avail; throwing a stream of water from a foun-
tain pump is often done to bring down an absconding swarm,
and cause them to alight and cluster.

THE LOSS OF THE QUEEN.

When the bees manifest a restless and uneasy disposition
by running about the front of the hive and signaling each
other, it is a sign that they have lost their queen, and they
should be examined at once.

Should a colony become queenless from any cause, three
weeks may be gained by having an extra queen to give it at
once. Upon examination, if no brood is found where the bees
are clustering, the colony is queenlcss. At any time during

rey) BEE CULTURE.

the season, from March to October, this is a sure sign. Colo-
uies that lose their queens during the winter have a forlorn
appearance. The bees walk around the entrance listlessly
and without eagerness ; but few of them go in search of either
honey or pollen.

No time should be lost in giving a queenless colony a comb
of eggs or young larve, or both, from which to raise a queen.

ty

Fic. 43.—Legs of an Italian Worker Bee.

Sometimes such a colony will refuse to raise queen cells: it
may be too weak ; its queen may be too old to lay, or they
may have a fertile worker. If it be too weak, it should be
united with another colony. If its queen be old, she should
Le removed and the bees given a frame of brood from a pros-
perous colony. If it has a fertile worker the most effective
way to get rid of it is to break up the colony, dividing it
among strong colonies having fertile queens.

BEE CULTURE. 71

Fig. £3 shows the legs of a worker bee. The two at the
left showing the outside ; while the two at the right exhibit
the appearance of the inside of the legs, /. ¢., that part
nearest the body. Those at the top of the engraving are the
anterior, and the lower ones are the posterior legs ; the latter
showing the “ pollen baskets” at A, A.

Worker bees being undeveloped females, it is not strange
that now and then one may be sufficiently developed to lay
eggs, Some account for this by the possibility that the larva

Fia. 44.—The Ovaries

may have been adjacent to the queen cell and received some
of the royal pabulum, given so plentifully to the queen.
Prof. Leuckart remarks that “it results entirely from the
development of ege-germs and eggs in the individual ovarian
tubes—which proceeds precisely in the manner described in
the case of the queen.” As they are incapable of meeting
the drones and becuming fully fertilized, their eggs will only
produce drones. Fig. 44 presents a view of the genitalia of
such a bee. It differs from the queen merely in the more
advanced development of the ovaries. (Fig. 43, A A).
‘workers deposit the eggs in a very irregular manner,
caused by the tubes being very imperfectly furnished with

eggs.

72 BEE CULTURE.

TRANSFERRING BEES.

June is the month of swarming in the Northern States,
while in the Middle and Southern States the early and
abundant bloom signal its advent. The best time to transfer
bees from the common to movable-frame hives is about the
season of swarming, though it may be done on any warm
afternoon, when the bees are actively at work.

A transferring board (Fig. +7), about the size of the frame,
should be prepared in advance, by making grooves of about
one-half an inch wide and one-fourth of an inch deep, and
about 2 inches apart. The spaces between these grooves
should be cushioned with several thicknesses of cloth, to
prevent the brood from being injured when the comb is laid
upon it.

Transferring sticks (Fig. 46) should be prepared from some
light, tough wood, about one-half inch longer than the frames

Fie. 45.—Frame of Transferred Comb.

are deep, and about one-fourth of an inch square. Fasten
two of these sticks together with a piece of fine annealed wire,
so as to leave about one inch of space between them, (Fig.
46); attach a piece of wire to the other end of one of the
sticks, (Fig. 46, 5.) to be used in fastening when placed
around the frame of comb. (Fig. 45.) A small notch
should be cut to admit the wire, and prevent slipping.—
These sticks should be made in pairs, and be kept ready for
use.
TRANSFERRING FROM A BOX-HIVE.

After smoking the bees at the entrance of a box-hive,
remove it some distance from the old stand, leaving an
empty hive or box in its place, to receive the bees that

BEE CULTURE, 73

return from the fields ; invert the hive, place an empty box
or hive over it, of the same size and shape, wrapping a sheet
or cloth around where they come together, leaving no eracks
large enough for a bee to escape. By gently tapping the
hive for some time, most of the bees, with the queen, will
enter the upper box. When they have nearly all left the
hive, place the upper box with the bees on the old stand.—
Being alarmed and filled with honey, they may be handled
without fear.

The old hive may now be removed to a convenient room or
building, and taken to pieces, by cutting off the nails with a
cold chisel and prying off the ends, eutting the combs when
taken out as near as possible to the size of the frames to be
used. The transferring board (Fig. 47) should be placed
upon a table or box, to be in a convenient position for
working over it.

The pieces of combs containing honey may be placed at
one side till some with brood are found ; this should be put
upon the transferring board (Fig. 47), so that when the frame

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Fie. 46.— Wired Sticks for Transferring.

is placed in position over it, the brood may be nearly in the
same position as it oceupied in the old hive and near the top
of the frame, as that will be the warmest position in the
hive. With a honey knife (Fig. 28) cut these combs to
make them fit. If more are wanted to fill the frame, use the
combs of honey first removed from the hive. Then push the
ends of the sticks, (Fig. 46, 0,) that have no wire attached,
through the grooves, from the bottom of the frames, where
the combs may need support; the other sticks attached, place
on the top of the comb, and fasten the ends together at the top
of the frame, as seen in Fig. 45, to match the fastenings
below. Place this frame in the hive, and proceed in
the same manner with the next brood comb, and let it occupy
the adjoining position in the hive, giving the frames contain-
ing honey the outside position on either side. The honey
from pieces of comb not used, and especially from all drone
comb, should be removed with the Extractor

T+ BEE CULTURE.

Carry the new hive to the old stand, and empty the bees
out of the box on a sheet, in front of the hive. See that the
queen, as well as all the bees, enter it. To prevent robbing,
the entrance should be contracted ; and in two or three days,
when the bees have fastened the combs, the transferring
sticks should be removed. Always work slowly with the
bees, and avoid jarring.

TRANSFERRING FROM A MOVABLE-FRAME HIVE.

When it is desired simply to transfer from one style of
frame to another, smoke the bees well, and after finding the
queen and putting her in a tumbler or some secure place,
take a frame, and shake or brush the bees off into the new
hive ; place the frame upon the transferring board (Fig. 47)
and cut out the comb; place the new frame over it and cut

Fie. 47.—Transferring Board.

to suit that frame, in the best way possible. Then fasten as
before described with wired sticks, (Fig. 46); after thus
transferring all the combs, proceed to hive the bees as above
directed, letting the queen loose upon one of the brood combs
as soon as they are transferred.

UNITING WEAK COLONIES.

Weak colonies may be united after smoking them well, by
removing the combs with adhering bees and placiag them
together in one hive, spraying them with peppermint water
by an atomizer (Fig. 38), to give them all the same scent,
Give them ventilation and close the entrance till sunset,
placing them where the strongcr of the two colonies stood,
Swarms issuing the same day can be united peaceably,

BEE CULTURE, 15

CLIPPING THE QUEEN’s WING.

This is done to prevent her from leaving with aswarm. In
attempting to fly she will fall to the ground in front of the
hive, and the bees missing her, will return to the hive. This
must not be done until after the queen has met the drone,
or she will remain unfertile. To perform the operation, open
the hive and lift the frame carefully, and avoid jars ; when
the queen is seen—with a pair of sharp-pointed scissors, lift
one of the front wings and cut off about one-half of it. It is
better that she be walking, or at least standing, so that a leg
be not cut off with the wing. She should not be handled;
if it becomes necessary to pick her up, be sure not to take
her by the abdomen. She may be held by the wings without
danger.

WASHING OUT DRONE BROOD.

Undesired drone brood can be very easily washed out of
the comb by using a rubber sprinkler, which will be found
very useful for other purposes about the apiary. All that is

Fig. 48.—Rubber Sprinkler.

required being a basin with water with which to fill the
sprinkler, and into which the brood may be washed out. To
use the sprinkler, compress the bulb, thereby expelling the
air; then put the nozzle into water, and it will fill itself.

REMOVING BEES FROM THE COMBS.

?

The following is the “shaking off process” as practiced
and recommended by Mr. G. M. Doolittle: ‘Place the ends
of the frame on the ends of the two middle fingers of each
hand, and then, with a quick upward stroke, throw the ends

76 BEE CULTURE,

of the frame against the ball, or thick part of the hand, at
the base of the thumb. As the frame strikes the hand, let
the hands give a sudden downward motion, which makes the
shock still greater. As the frame strikes the fingers again,
it is thrown back against the hand, and so on till all, or nearly
all, of the bees are off. The principle is that the bee is on
her guard all the while to keep from falling off, thus holding
on tenaciously so as not to be easily shaken off. By the
sudden stopping of the upward, and a quick downward motion,
the bees are thrown off their guard and dislodged from the
comb. I do not remember of ever having broken a comb by
shaking it, as above described. Now, if we disturb the Ital-
jans, causing them to fill themselves with honey, they can
then be shaken from the combs about as easily as black bees.
But even if we cannot afford time to wait till they are filled
with honey, four-fifths of them can be shaken off. To get off
the remainder, I take a turkey or goose quill and trim down
the feather edge about half on the wide side, and with this I
have no trouble in getting off those remaining, without irri-
tating them. Of course, it will appear a little awkward at
first, but will soon be found easy enough.”

PREPARING BEES FOR SHIPMENT.

The best time for shipping bees any considerable distance,
is in April, or quite early in May, before the combs are too
heavy with brood; but with proper care in preparing them
and ordinary usage in handling, they may be shipped at any
time with comparative safety, except in quite cold weather.

The first work is to go through the hives and extract about
all the uncapped honey, as the least daubing will prove fatal
to the bees ; then procure a block one inch square, and as long
as the hive is wide, in this cut notches and tack in the bottom
of the hive, in which to place the frames to keep them steady;
now select the new combs and those heavy with brood or
sealed honey, secure them well in the frames with .strip-
binders, and place in the hive; tack the ends of the frames
firmly to the rabbets on which they rest ; dip the blanket in
clean water, lightly wring, fold about six thicknesses, and lay
on the front ends of the frames. If the hive has no portico,
leave oft the cover, and use wire cloth instead, nailing on top

BEE CULTURE. 7

of that, three one-inch strips,two inches wide—one across the
center, the others across each end, to insure ventilation when
piled on each other. Now tack wire cloth over the entrance,
and your bees are ready for shipment.

If the hive has a portico, prepare in the same manner as
above, except to bore a one-and-a-half inch hole in each side
of the brood chamber, and also in’ the cover, which will be
used in place of the wire cloth over the frames ; the holes to
be covered inside and outside with wire cloth, to admit of
ventilation. Leave the entrance open full size, but cover the
entire portico securely with wire cloth, leaving free access to
it from the interior of the hive; care must be taken, however,
to bore a one-and-a-half inch hole under the roof-board of
the portico, and left open, to allow free ingress to the interior
of the hive, as the entrance beneath may become choked up,
and the cluster of bees, with the queen, die of starvation
through inability to get at the honey in the hive. Hives
made with porticoes are much better for shipping bees, for it
allows them to drag out the dead, cleanse the hive, and, to a
great extent, prevent dysentery. Prepared in this manner,
full colonies may be shipped at all seasons, from May 1st
until Aug. 10th, with perfect success.

Two colonies sent to New Zealand, after being confined six
weeks, were received in splendid condition, and are thus de-
scribed by the consignee, after their arrival: “The hives
my bees came in were eight-framed ‘‘ Langstroth,” tin rab-
bets, bottom board flush with entrance, nailed on to body of
the hive, cover flat with one-inch strips, one-and-a-half inches
wide, nailed across the top at each end : from one end of cover
toward the center, over the middle frames, a piece about 9x5
inches sawn out, and one-inch strips, one-and-a-half inches
wide, nailed round the edge on the upper side. This hole was
covered with wire cloth on under side, a sponge laid on that,
and then covered with wire cloth on upper side, and the cover
screwed down. The frames contained old tough comb, and
where they had not been built right down to the bottom bar,
strips of wood were joined in between the comb and bar,
making it secure. Two wire binders were put around each
frame, one-third from each end, and in one of the center
frames a flat bottle containing water was fastened with wire,

78 BEE CULTURE.

for which a part of the comb had been cut away, next to the
end bar; this, of course, was neck downward, corked and
some lampwick communicating with the water. The frames
rested in a notched strip on bottom board, the width of the
hive (not nailed), and two, notched strips secured them on
top, the cover going down on these, held all firmly. The
entrances were covered with wire cloth, and directions for
giving water on the sponge were pasted on each hive.

Upon arrival it was found that about a gill of water had
been used from each bottle. There was no sealed brood in
the hives, but both queens had commenced to lay, as there
were hatched larve in some of the cells.

UNITING COLONIES IN EARLY SPRING.

Remove the queen from one colony, and put the frames
with bees and brood at one side, putting in a divider made by
tacking wire-cloth on one side of a brood frame, with the
ends extending to reach full length of the hive ; now bring
the brood, queen and bees from the other hive and place in
this one ; close the entrance on the bees and queen put in
for twenty four hours, slant a board in front, remove the hive
vacated, and the work is done. In twenty-four hours, or the
next night, remove the obstruction from the entrance, leaving
the slanting board in front, which will cause the bees to mark
their home anew. On the third day remove the dividing-
frame and the board from the front. No hive should occupy
the old stand, from which the queen and bees were removed,
for several days.

HOW TO SEPARATE SWARMS.

The fsliowing is a very successful plan of accomplishing
this task. Messrs. Bray & Seacord, of California, say that it
works like a charm every time: ‘Make a box three feet
long, wide and deep enough to hang the frames in, from the
hive you use ; place the frames in the box, same spaces apart
as they are in the movable comb hive; make one entrance for
the bees on the side of the box, twice the length and of the
same height as the entrance to the hive. Make three or four
division boards to fit the box, then make a cover with cleats
on both sides (no end cleats) to fit the box; hive the swarms

Swarm Catcher. Hlive Scraper,

Manum’s Swarming Apparatus. Hive Clamp.

BEE CULTURE, 79

of two or more in the box; place the box in the shade until
the next morning, then push the cover lengthwise of the box
and you will see each colony clustered by themselves. Put
a division board between each cluster, after which push back
the cover over the box and set. it where you wish to hive the
bees. Place the hive in a convenient position to receive the
bees, push the box cover back from over the first cluster,
carefully drawing out the frames from the box, for the bees
build comb twenty-four hours or less from the time hived.
On some of the frames you will find comb ; place those frames
with bees on, into the hive. This will start a roar in the
hive; the rest of the bees ean be removed with a feather.
When all the bees are in the hive, place it where you wish it
to stand, and proceed with other clusters in a similar
manner.”

Mr. J. W. Bailey, of Wisconsin, makes “ swarm catchers ”

of wire cloth nailed to a frame (fig. 49), and thinks them the
most valuable assistant for the apiary.

Fig. 49.—Bailey’s Swarm Catcher.

Mr. J. 8. Hill, of Ohio, uses a swarm catcher, the bag of
which is made of factory, having a handle of cloth on the
inside as well as the out—making it reversible (fig. 50).
With a long wooden pole it will reach any swarm, and when
the bees are emptied in front of the hive, the handle on the
outside gives the apiarist control of it, and when turned. in-
side-out, a handle is still on the outside, as it has two.

80 BEE CULTURE,

ROBBER BEES.

If all the colonies are kept strong there is no danger of
robbing. It is only the weak ones that are robbed. Working
with bees at unseasonable times, leaving honey exposed in
the apiary, etc., induces robbing. Colonies of black bees and
nuclei are usually the sufferers. Contracting the entrance, so
that but a single bee can pass, is usually a cure for robbing.
In times of scarcity of honey, the apiarist should be careful
not to keep a hive open long, or robbing may be tie result.
All strong colonies maintain sentinels at the entrance in
times of scarcity. Those of that colony are allowed to pass,
but strangers are “arrested on the spot.” If a colony is
unable to defend itself, close up the entrance with wire cloth
and remove it to the cellar, or some other convenient place,

Fia. 50.—Hill’s Swarm Catcher.

for a few days, and when it is returned to the old stand, con-
tract the entrance to allow only one bee to pass at a time.

FEEDING BEES.

Feeding early in the spring is advisable to stimulate breed-
ing, and keep the colony strong, so that when the early bloom
comes it may be strong enough to gather the delicious nectar.
Whenever there is any necessity for it, feeding pays;
especially in the fall, before preparing for winter, if their
stores are insufficient, feed them ; each colony should have at
least thirty pounds of good capped honey.

Extracted honey, or coffee A sugar, reduced to the consis-
tency of honey, is best for feeding, in the absence of good
sealed honey. The poorer grades of sugar and glucose are

BEE CULTURE, 81

totally unfit for feeding bees. To stimulate in the spring,
one-half of a pound per day is all-sufficient for a colony.

For feeding inside the hive the division-board feeder (fig.
51) may be used to advantage. It was devised by Prof.
Cook, who describes it thus: “The top bar of this division-
board feeder (fig. 51) is two inches wide ; from the upper cen-
tral portion, beneath the top-bar, a rectangular piece the size
of an oyster-can is replaced with an oyster-can (@), after the
top of the latter has been removed. A vertical piece of wood
(p) is fitted into the can so as to separate a space about one-
inch square, on one side from the balance of the chamber.
This piece does not reach quite to the bottom of the can,
there being a one-eighth inch space beneath. In the top-bar
there is an opening (E) just above the smaller space below.

ic

Fie. 51.—Division-Board Bee Feeder.

In the larger space is a wooden float (F) full of holes. On
one side, opposite the larger chamber of the can, a half-inch
piece of the top (c) is cut off, so that the bees can pass
between the can and top-bar on to the float, where they can
sip the feed. The feed is turned into the hole in the top-bar
(£), and without touching a bee, passes down under the ver-
tical strip (D) and raises the float (Fr). The can may be
tacked to the board at the ends near the top. Two or three
tacks through the can into the vertical piece (D) will hold
the latter firmly in place; or the top-bar may press on the
vertical piece so that it cannot move. Crowding a narrow

82 BEE CULTURE.

piece of woolen cloth between the can and board, and nailing
a similar strip around the beveled edge of the division-board,
makes all snug. The feeder is placed at the end of the
brood-chamber and the top-bar covered by the quilt. To feed,
we have only to fold the quilt over, when, with a tea-pot, we
pour the feed into the hole in the top-bar. If a honey board
is used, there must be a hole in this just above the hole in
the division-board feeder. In either case, no bees can escape,
the heat is confined, and our division-board feeder is but lit-
tle more expensive than a division-board alone. The best
time to fecd is just at nightfall. In this case the feed will
be carried away before the next day, and the danger to weak
colonies from robbing is not so great.”

Shuck’s Bee Feeder (fig. 52) feeds at the entrance, any time
in the day, without danger from robber, as the food can be

Fie. 52.—Shuck’s Bee Feeder.

reached only from the inside of the hive; it is placed on the
alighting board, with the side (D) nearly covering the entrance.
In the engraving, the top is cut away to show the wood divisions
(A A) in the feed-cup ; the food is poured into it without re-
moving, through the hole (c), which is covered with wire-
cloth. When done the cap (B) is closed over it, making all
tight.

QUIETING AND HANDLING BEES.

The bee sting is composed of three distinct parts, of which
the sheath forms one. These three parts join near the edges,
and form a tube which, viewed sectionally, has the shape of
a triangle, the angles being rounded off.

The other two parts constitute the sting proper, and in a
sectional view are semi-circular (fig. 53, A), the upper edges
being thicker than the lower ones, and squared to each other,
one of the edges having a projection extending along the

BEE CULTURE. 83

under or inner portion of it, thereby forming a rabbet along
which the opposite part freely moves. The under or inner
edge of each of these parts tapers down to extreme thinness,
while near the termination of the edge there runs a minute
groove which corresponds with the ridge mentioned in the
description of the sheath, and along which the parts move

Fig. 538.—Sectional View of a Bee Sting

freely. Each of these parts properly tapers duwn to an
exceedingly fine point. Near the point begin the barbs (fig.
53, B), which in some stings number as many as ten, extending
along the sting nearly one-half its length, and are well-
defined. It may happen that one or both of the chief parts of.
the sting are left in the wound when the sheath is withdrawn,
but are rarely perceived on account of their minuteness, the

84 BEE CULTURE,

person stung at the same time congratulating himself that
the sting has been extracted.

On being stung, if the poison-bag has not been emptied,
remove it and suck the wound strongly to extract the poison ;
this is usually sufficient. If not, apply ammonia or salt to
the part to prevent swelling. Still another plan used with
success is to blow some smoke on the place from the bee
smoker (fig. 54).

Smoke is harmless and is the best thing to alarm and quiet
bees. With a good smoker (fig. 54), blow a little smoke in
at the entrance before opening the hive. Give them a little

Fie. 54.—Bingham’s Bee Smoker.

more as you uncover the frames; if very cross repeat the
dose, until they yield obedience ; then they may be handled
with safety. Handle them gently and without fear, avoiding
all quick motions ; such usually incite them to anger. When
honey is being stored rapidly, Italians may be handled with-
out smoke ; when there is a scarcity it is not safe to do so.

To those who are commencing, and until familiarity causes
the loss of fear, a pair of good gauntlet gloves and a veil are
necessary, but after that fear has been overcome, a good veil
will be sufficient. Such may be placed over a hat, the bottom
of it coming down under the coat or vest, and when thus ad-

BEE OULTURE. 85

justed it is a complete protection for the neck and face (fig.
55). It being made of white netting, it docs not stain the
clothing, and as the piece over the face is black, it can be
seen through, nearly as well as if not worn.

A pair of gauntlet rubber gloves is best for those who need
such protection, while unaccustomed to manipulating bees.
The advanced apiarist prefers to have the free use of luis

Fie. 55.—Bee Veil.

hands at all times. Bees when gorged with honey are very
peaceable; when often handled they become accustomed to
the practice, and when this is gently done, they will scarcely
notice the disturbance.

SHIPPING AND INTRODUCING QUEENS.

Fig. 56 shows a safe introducing cage, which is made by
taking four strips of wood about four inches long and three-
eighths of an inch square ; mortise both ends of one piece half
way, and one end each of two others, so as to form a three-
sided frame ; on this tack fine wire cloth, and through each
side-piece drive two three-fourths or one-inch finishing brads,
letting the ends project ; drive two brads through the fourth
or loose strip. Take from the brood chamber a frame of
comb containing sealed brood, remove the queen from it, if
there; then shake the old bees in front of the hive, and place

86 BEE CULTURE,

the introducing cage on the comb, over sealed brood and a few
cells of uncapped honey, letting the projecting nails run
through the comb so as to hold the cage firmly and closely on
. the surface of the comb; then let the queen run from the
shipping cage under the wire cloth, and quickly close by
placing the fourth strip on the comb at the open end of the

ai
SS

SS

Fie. 56.—Surface Introducing Cage.

cage (fig. 56). Replace the frame in the hive, and the work
is done. The young bees emerging from the cells affiliate
with the queen confined with them, and the newly emptied
cells afford room for depositing eggs. At the end of two or

a
Fig. 57.—Outman’s Introdueing Cage.

three days she can be released by removing the end strip, and
all danger from “ balling”’ is obviated.

Many qucen cages are on the market for shipping and

‘introducing queens, and almost all of them are well adapted
to the use for which they are intended.

BEE CULTURE. 87

WOOD-ZINC HONEY-BOARD.

This is made of alternated strips of wood (1} inches wide)
and perforated zinc (} of an inch wide), with one row of

Fie. 58. _Wood-fine Slatted Honey-Board.

holes. The zine strips are held in place by fitting into saw-
kerfs on the sides of the strips of wood. It can be made to
fit any hive.

BEE-DIARRHEA.

Bee-diarrhea in the latter part of winter and carly spring
is a malady that affects some apiaries. The bees discharge
their excrements over the hives and combs, producing a
dark appearance and offensive odor. The cause is either
fermented honey, improper food, long confinement, or too
warm and poorly-ventilated quarters. Give them good
capped honey and a cleansing flight. If too cold for this,
out-of-doors, take the hive into a warm room, make a box,
with the front and top made of wire-cloth or mosquito
netting, adjust it to the entrance, so that the bees must
enter it on leaving the hive. This will usually prove an
effectual remedy. : = ee

FOUL BROOD DISEASE.

Foul brood is the rotting of brood in a hive ; the caps of
the sealed brood appear indented and shriveled, and the
larve and young beesin unsealed cells become putrid,
emitting a disgusting stench.

When the disease has a firm hold, even though it may be
possible to cure it, we should advise the total destruction by
tire, of the bees, combs, frames and hives, with everything
which might harbor the disease. In its primary stages it
may be cured in this way: With an atomizer (Fig. 37)
spray the hive, bees, brood, honey and combs with a solution
of salicylic acid, borax and rain water, repeated on the
sixth day. Remove the diseased brood from the hive, and
give them capped honey—if not too far advanced, this may
give relief.

88 BEE CULTURE.

The following is Mr. D. A. Jones’ method: “Remove
all the combs not containing brood, extract the honey and
boil it, then it is ready to feed back. Render’the combs into
wax and make it into foundation; boil the frames fifteen
minutes, and fill in the foundation again, placing them in
clean hives; drum and smoke the bees until they all fill
themselves with honey (this is very important, for if some
are not filled, they will die when others have plenty) ; shake
off the bees, leaving enough to nurse the brood ; place them
in a box covered with wire cloth, carry it to a dark, cool cel-
lar or bee house, lay it on its side, and allow the bees to

Fie. 60.—Hastings’ Shipping Cage.

remain there from sixty to eighty hours, until they drop, and
show signs of starvation; then shake them into the clean
hives with foundation, feed them, and put them into a new
location at least one or two miles away from the diseased
yard. As soon as the queen and bees are removed for starv-
ing, the hatching brood and bees should be doubled up, so as
to have all colonies full of combs of hatching brood. The
empty hives thus secured should be scalded for future use.
As soon as all the brood hatches, the bees may be brushed
off the combs after being made to fill themselves with honey,
like the first lot, placed in boxes, and treated in the same
way. Now bring the first lot purified back to the yard again,
and you have all your bees and hives purified and free from
disease, if you have done it as it should be done, without any
loss except your time.”

f
4

Herr ANDREAS SCHMIDT.

BEE CULTURE. 89

THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE.

THE INVENTION OF THE EXTRACTOR.

Following closely after the increased knowledge concern-
ing the natural history of the Honey Bee came improvements
in bee hives and modern appliances for obtaining the
increased production ,of honey. ~Major Von Hruschka, a
retired Austrian officer, who was then keeping bees in Italy,
invented the Honey Extractor ; and its great value is every-
where admitted by all ‘progressive bee-keepers.

The following is a brief history of the discovery: One day
when the Major, who was a most observing and critical
bee-keeper, was in his apiary, his little boy came there to
him. The boy had a small tin pail tied to a string, which he
was swinging, boy-like, around and around in a circle, hold-
ing the end of the string in his hand. The father gave the
youth a small piece of comb filled with honey, putting it into
the little pail. The boy, after a while, began to swing the
pail again as before, with the honey init. A few moments
after, he became tired of that amusement, and put the pail
down to talk to his father, who took it up, and, by chance,
noticed that the honey had left the comb and settled down
into the pail, leaving the comb perfectly clean that had been
on the outside of the circle when the boy was swinging it
around. The Major wondered at the. circumstance, . and,
turning the comb over, bade the boy swing it again, when, to
his great astonishment, the other side of the comb also
became perfectly clean, all the honey being extracted and
lying at the bottom of the pail. That night Major Von
Hruschka, after going to bed, commenced to think the cir-
cumstance over; he thought, and thought, and his thoughts
troubled him so much that on the morrow he commenced a
series of experiments which resulted in his giving to the

90 BEE CULTURE,

World the first honey extractor, which, by whirling, some-
thing like his son whirled that little tin pail, gave him the
pure liquid honey, extracted by centrifugal force, leaving the
honey comb entirely free from the liquid sweet, which he
gave again to the bees to fill; allowing him the pure honey
for making wine, mead and metheglin, or honey cakes, as
desired, without employing the troublesome and primitive
method in use up to that time, of mashing up the combs con-
tainirg the honey, pollen, and sometimes brood, too, to let the

honey drain through the cloth in which it was placea—giving
what was formerly known as “strained honey.”

Major Von Hruschka’s original and complicated Honey
Extractor has been vastly improved in America by Messrs.
Winder, Peabody, Murphy, Chapman, Root, Everett, Muth,
Coffinberry, and others. Now we have neat and inexpensive
machines which do their work well and rapidly, but honey
consumers generally have no idea how it is accomplished, and
some “old fogy”’ bee-keepers as well as novices, still ask how
it is done.

BEE CULTURE. 91

Extracted honey is obtained by the combs being uncapped
and placed in the basket or frame-holder of a Honey Extractor
(fig. 62), which being attached to a single rod in a large can
and revolved, the centrifugal force throws out the pure
honey from the combs, which runs down the sides of the can
and is drawn off and placed in jars or some other desirable
receptacle. Extracted honey is the pure liquid—minus the
comb.

Fia. 62.—Comb Basket of an Extractor.

The essential points in a good Honey Extractor are: one
that can be easily taken to pieces and cleaned—one that the
shaft holding the revolving basket in position, does not revolve
in the honey—one that has sufficient room below the comb
basket to allow the honey to remain and ripen before draw-
ing it off, leaving it clean and free from sediment, and fit for
the market—one that has an over-motion and strong gearing
so essential to ease of operation and effective work—one that
has covers to protect the honey from insects—and one that
may be easily operated.

Honey must be “ uncapped” before extracting, therefore,
a good honey knife is a necessity. Such is the Bingham &

92 BEE CULTURE.

Hetherington honey knife (fig. 63). It is made of the best
steel, strong at the bend near the handle, and is wide enough
to allow the cappings to remain on the knife while running
across the comb. Both edges are sharp and are beveled on
the side that comes in contact with the combs. This pre-
vents the knife from adhering to the combs and tearing

Fie. 63.— Bingham & Hetherington Honey Knife.

them, while shaving off the cappings. As both edges are

alike, it admits of being used for right or left-hand work—

the sharp point also allows it to be used in corners or uneven
laces.

Another and cheaper one is the Muth knife (fig. 64) which,

though it is not as desirable, will be used by those desiring

an inexpensive knife.

WHEN TO USE THE HONEY EXTRACTOR.

Honey can be extracted, if carefully done, without the
least injury to the bees or the comb; the latter may be
replaced in the hive, and often are refilled by the bees within
three or four days.

When the breeding apartment becomes so full of honey
that the queen has no room to lay, to extract it is a necessity.

Fia. 64.—Muth’s Honey Knife.

By the extractor all the honey can be taken from partly-filled
sections—a holder for small pieces of comb (fig. 65) being
furnished with some extractors for that purpose, as well as
extracting from pieces when transferring. By its judicious
use, many pounds of honey can be obtained that would not be
completed in the sections by the bees.

Empty combs in the spring are invaluable, and in the fall
there are usually many surplus brood combs. By extracting

BEE CULTURE. 93

the honey from these and carefully putting them away, you
not only have the honey for use or sale, but also the much-
desired combs in the spring.

Inexperienced bee-keepers are sometimes tempted to
extract too closely, and thus ruin the colony. The Extractor
should only be used when there is a rapid storing of honey,
and the outside frames of comb are nearly capped over.—
Capped brood will not be injured, but there is danger in using
the extractor when the ‘brood is uncapped.

To prevent swarming, the honey extractor is successfully
used by some. Its frequent use will usually control it.—

Fie. 65.—Small Piece Honey Comb Holder.

Many swarms and large yields of honey will not be obtained
during the same season. The one will be at the expense of
the other.

HOW TO EXTRACT.

With a good “smoker,” blow some smoke in at the
entrance of the hive ; after awhile, open it and take out the
frames of honey you wish to extract from. Shake the bees
from each frame by one or two sudden jars, brushing the
remaining ones off, right over the frames into the hive, or
down in front of the entrance, with a large feather or small
turkey-wing.

Place empty combs or a frame furnished with comb foun-
dation in place of thuse taken from the first hive. A box, or
carry-all, with legs and folding covers, capable of holding
about ten frames, and having long projecting handles is very
convenient to carry the frames to the operating room. Mr.

94 BEE CULTURE,

Davis, of Tenn., has devised a honey carriage (fig. 66) for this
purpose, which combines many useful points.

After carefully removing the “ cappings”’ with a sharp knife
(fig. 63) from one comb, place it into the comb basket of
the extractor, with the uncapped side outwards; select
another of about the same weight, and repeat the operation.
A few turns of the crank throws out the honey. Then
remove these frames, uncap the other side, and after extract-
ing the honey from them all as before described, place them
back into the carry-all, and take them to the next hive to be
extracted ; perform the same operation, using the frames just

ENTS

Fig. 66.—Davis’ Honey Carriage.

“extracted” from, to fill the places of those taken from the
hive, and repeat the operation till aL the hives are treated
in the same manner that have a surplus of honey.

By this plan, much work is saved, each colony is handled
but once, the bees are Jess disturbed and will resume work
much sooner. If desired, the frames from the last hive may
be given to the first, after being emptied of the honey, instead
of empty frames—if no extra combs are at hand for that
purpose. This is an additional reason why only ONE style of
hive should be used in an apiary—so that the frames may
ALL be interchangeable. In “dividing,” too, this is very
essential.

For ordinary sized frames, the comb basket should hold
three or four frames (fig. 62), and thus save much labor for
the operator. Many of the Extractors are also furnished
with an attachment for holding small pieces of comb, obtained
while transferring, etc. (fig. 65) ; this is hitched on to the top
of the comb basket for that purpose, and may be instantly
either put on or taken off.

ae

Powell Honey-Board.

Pucca Brush. Dibbern’s Hive-Hook.

BEE CULTURE, 95

COMB FOUNDATION AND ITS USE.

The Bee Hive is an emblem of industry, and the perfection
of its government is truly marvelous! When we view the
skill exhibited in the building of the beautiful comb—so true
in form, so wonderfully systematic in construction, and all
completed by a crowd of bees in a dark hive—and often at
night, without the light of the sun, moon or stars—we are
amazed at the skill of these wonderful little architects!
Think of their wonderfully - delicate cells of wax, only
180th part of an inch in thickness, made without the aid of

Fic. 67.—Bases and Cross-Sections of Cells.

rules, angles or plumb lines—-and yet one ounce of this deli-
cate work will contain a pound of honey, of sufficient strength
to be transported thousands of miles without injury, with but
ordinary care. Contemplate the perfection of these cells.
A noted German aptly puts it thus: ‘The cells of bees
are found to fulfill perfectly the most subtle conditions of an
intricate mathematical problem. Let it be required to find
what shape a given quantity of matter must take in order to
have the greatest capacity and strength, occupying at the same
time the least space, and consuming the least labor in its con-
struction. When this problem is solved by the most refined

96 BEE CULTURE.

mathematical processes, the answer is, the dcxagonal, or six-
sided cell, of the honey bee, with its three four-sided figures
at the base.”

As the bases exactly fit into one another from opposite
sides, and the insects work on both sides at the same time,
in what language did they communicate the proportions to
be observed, while making these bases, common to the cells
on opposite sides? (Fig. 67.)

These interesting workers are ul] arranged and classed se
that neither discord nor confusion may interrupt their work.

Fie. 68.—Honey Comb.

As we have seen—the comb builders construct the delicate
_ecomb. The honey gatherers collect the sweet juices from
the flowers and deposit them in the cells. Water carriers
employ themselves in bringing in the water required for the
support of the young brood. The pollen-gatherers gather the
farina from the blossoms, and carry it in cavities, formed for
the purpose, on their legs. The nursing bees feed the young
bees until these are old and strong enough to take care of
themselves ; and faithful guards, ever mindful of the peace
and harmony of the colony, carefully watch the entrance to
the hive—admitting no intruder, neither insect nor strange

BEE CULTURE, 97

bee. It is amusing to notice how dexterously they pounce
upon anything daring even to approach the entrance.

We are sometimes asked why the bees do not build comb
when they have nothing elsé to do, and thus save valuable
time, the enquirer forgetting that comb-building and honey
gathering are zealously carried on simultaneously, and when
the honey flow ceases, comb building is also given up. The
latter is chiefly done at night or during unfavorable weather:

THE INVENTION OF COMB FOUNDATION.

It is estimated that the workers consume about twenty
pounds of honey, to construct one pound of comb. This
being true, one pound of comb is equal in value to twenty

Fig. 69.—Comb Foundation.

pounds of honey. If, therefore, honey is worth fifteen cents
per pound, comb costs three dollars per pound, when produced
by the bees. From this we may learn-the value of comb
foundation (fig. 69) when supplied to the bees.

This, when only smooth sheets of wax, was first used in
Germany, and Mr. W. M. Hoge, in 1874, assisted Mr. Fred-
erick Weiss, an aged German, then living in New York to
introduce it to American bee-keepers. In 1875 we visited
both of these gentlemen in New York, and obtained some of
the first sheets produced. This poor old German has, since
then, lived in Chicago, and often visited the office of the
BEE JouRNAL. Being poor, old and crippled with rheuma-
tism, he sought refuge in the Cook County (Illinois) Poor
House, and there died some years ago. ;

Comb foundation (fig. 69) consists of sheets of beeswax,
formed by dipping wooden plates into melted wax, and upon

98 BEE CULTURE.

being rolled through a machine (fig. 70), have indentations
made on both sides that form the foundation of cells, which
the bees readily accept and work out into comb.

It would be tedious to review all the various styles of
foundation presented to bee-kcepers since it was first intro-
duced in America, and the claims of the many machines now
upon the market for its manufacture. We have had founda-
tion with triangular-shaped cells, with flat-bottomed cells,
with high side-walls, and with no walls at all; with linen,
cotton, wood, paper, tin-foil and woven-wire for a base ; while
latterly, we have had foundation with fine wires imbedded

Fie. 70.—Comb Foundation Mill.

therein, and frames of foundation with wires pressed therein.
Experience is demonstrating, however, that a medium heavy
sheet—say, four-and-a-half to five feet per pound, with a
thin base or septum, and heavy prominent side-walls or lines,
is the most desirable for economy in the use of wax, and
rapidity in comb-building by the bees; and whether it be dis-
tinguished by the name of Dunham, Given, Bourgmeyer or
Ferris—or call it whet you will—the above characteristics
will be predominent in the comb foundation hereafter used
by all progressive apiarists.

BEE CULTURE, 99

Manufacturers should avoid using soap and all other
obnoxious preparations in making foundation ; many pounds
of good wax have been condemned as adulterated, because of
the wash used on the rollers.

Considering the start given to a colony of bees by judi-
ciously using comb foundation, the certainty of having the
combs all built straight, the ease with which the number of
drones produced by a colony may be controlled, let no one
say that we are not making prodigious strides in making bee-
keeping a scientific occupation.

PRESERVE THE WAX.

The use of comb foundation bids fair to use all the avail-
able wax in the country; every bit of wax and old combs
should therefore be preserved. A wax extractor (fig. 71)

e

Fie. 71.—Wax Extractor.

will soon pay for itself. By its use all the old comb may be
saved, utilized, and restored to the bees in comb foundation
to be worked out into beautiful comb, forming either the
cradle of bees or the receptacle of immaculately-pure honey.

COMB FOUNDATION NOT ARTIFICIAL.

Newton, seeing a falling apple, asked, why? Franklin,
upon witnessing the lightning’s flash, asked, why? Fulton,
perceiving the force contained in steam, asked, why? Thou-
sands of scientific discoveries have resulted from some one
asking why? When we hear persons call Comb Foundation
“artificial,” we naturally ask, why? Artificial is “ wenatural,”

100 BEE CULTURE.

“fraudulent,” an “imitation!” What is there unnatural
about Comb Foundation? Is the wax unnatural? Does
melting, and dipping a board in it, make it a fraud ?
Does peeling off the cooling sheet of wax from the board
make it an “imitation?” Or running it between rollers, or
pressing configurations into it, make it unnatural? If so,
why do the bees take to it.so naturally, instantly seizing it,
building it out into beautiful cells, in which to raise their
brood or store their honey? Is not everything genuine,
natural and real? Then why, in the name of common sense,
should it be called “artificial ?’ We much prefer the real,
the natural, the genuine, be it ever so plain, to the gilded
fraud, or the elegant imitation! Let all ask, why? An
honest doubt often leads to greater truth !

FASTENING FOUNDATION TO THE FRAMES.

We use Langstroth frames with a V-shaped top-bar ; the
foundation is just as wide as the inside of the frame from the
bottom-bar to the lower point of the top-bar, and is one-inch

Fig. 72.— Foundation Fastened to Top-Bar.

shorter than the frame from end to end. When ready to use
aset of frames, the foundation is placed on clean paper,
evenly piled, with the straightest edge next to the operator ;
now with a sharp knife, make four incisions or cuts half an
inch long down through the foundation to the paper, and at
equal distances from each other and at the ends; with the
hands placed at each end of the pile, turn up the two end-
cuts with the thumbs, and proceed to the center, which is
also turned up; now lift the sheet clear from the pile and
turn the two remaining cuts or flaps in the opposite direction ;

BEE CULTURE, 101

lay the sheet down with the top edge nearest you, place the
frame with the lower or sharp edge fitting closely to the
joints, formed by alternately bending up and down the flaps,
and press the foundation to the top-bar with the thumbs,
drawing to you. When warm and the wax quite pliable, the
work is very speedily and effectively performed—scarcely

Fie. 73.—Machine for Fastening Foundation

requiring more than ten minutes for a full set of frames.
The foundation will reach within half an inch of each end-bar
and the bottom-bar, and give ample room for the bees to pass
from side to side. Of course, a greater number of cuts will
do no harm, except to take up more room. With good foun-
dation we have never had any breaking down, warping, nor

Fie. 74.—Goodrich’s Foundation Fastener.

sagging to any appreciable extent. Fig. 72 gives a compre-
hensive idea of the appearance of a sheet of foundation ready
for the hive. :

Many bee-keepers use a top-bar with a tongue or in-set
projecting below its surface, to which they fasten the foun-
dation by pressing with a putty-knife. Others lay the edge
of the foundation along the tongue, and fasten by tacking a
thin strip of wood over it. Melted beeswax and rosin is uscd

102 BEE CULTURE.

a great deal, with which the foundation is sealed to the top-
bar. Split top-bars are used by many, and possess some
advantages over most other kinds. These, however, necessi-
tate considerable labor, as the nailing down of the top-bars
cannot be completed till after the foundation.is inserted.

Mr. 8. Goodrich has invented a machine for fastening full
sheets of foundation to the top and sides of frames having
flat top-bars (fig. 74).

Starters two or three inches long will not always insure
straight combs, but, of course, are much better than empty
frames ; full sheets are much more satisfactory.

In hiving swarms, if very strong, we would throw them on
full sheets and a full complement, to prevent concentrating

Fic. 75.—Grooved Board for Cutting Starters.

too much weight on a few ; but if building up, then give full
sheets, in the center of the brood nest, only as fast as they
can use them.

For cutting it into strips of uniform size, for starters in
sections, a grooved board (fig. 75) may be used ; the distance
between the grooves corresponding to the width of the strips
desired to be cut. Several kinds are now made so thin that
it can be used to advantage in surplus honey. If natural
comb be used in surplus, IT MUST be new and nice. Any
other is but a damage to its sale as well as to its flavor.

Bees bred in new comb are generally much larger than
those reared in old. The cells in the old comb become
smaller every year, as every bee that is hatched in them
leaves its silky cocoon adhering to the walls of the cell, thus
diminishing its size, and, consequently, the size of the bee.

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BEE CULTURE, 103

BEE PASTURAGE A NECESSITY.

As civilization, with its improved and perfected machinery,
clears away the forest trees and upturns the prairie sods, it
is year by year lessening the productive honey field for the
bees, and gives rise to the frequent remark that bees in cer-

Fig. 76.—Honey Locust Tree.

tain localities do not prove so profitable as in years gone by.
In many instances the honey yield is not so heavy, and the
loss in wintering about consumes the profits ; especially is
the latter the case where bee-keepers have kept apace with

104 BEE CULTURE.

the improved appliances for depriving their bees of the fruits
of their labor during summer, as fast as gathered, but have
been too shiftless to provide certain and wholesome nectar-
yielding bloom with which to replace the earlier stores taken
away. In view of the uncertainty of nature providing suffi-
cient continuous bloom, and the certainty of annually recur-
ring periods of cold weather, and long, hazardous confinement,
the bee-keeper, to insure success, should as conscientiously
provide pasture from which his bees can gather food, as to

Fig. 77.— Basswood or Linden Leaf and Bicssome.

provide hives with which to shelter them from the storms.
With a liberal allowance of good, wholesome honey in the
fall, the first requirement for successful wintering will be
provided. We cannot understand how any one can mistake
his duty to provide pasturage, if profits are expected; nor
how a humane, generous-hearted bee-keeper, can increase his
numbers of bees without making some provision against
starving.
TREES FOR SHADE AND HONEY.

Every home can be beautified by a judicious selection of
ornamental shade trees, and where the roads, streets and

BEE CULTURE. 105

lanes are nicely bordered with them, the market value of
the property will be increased more than double the cost of
the trees and labor necessary. For this purpose the basswood
or linden (Tilice Americana) is one of the most desirable.

Fic. 78.—Tulip or Poplar Leaf and Blossom.

Its rank, thrifty growth, large, glossy-green leaves, beauti-
fully perfumed flowers, adaptability to almost any soil and
climate, and ease with which it can be cultivated, make it
one of the most desirable for lawn or lane. It is easily prop-

a

106 BEE CULTURE,

agated from the seed or cuttings, and can be transplanted
with certainty, and may be obtained with little trouble. It
blooms in early July, and yields a white, aromatic honey, of
superior quality.

The tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera), often called pop-
lar, is also of rapid growth, hardy, and easily cultivated.
This makes a beautiful shade, and yields an abundance of
delicious honey. As a producer it ranks only second to the
linden, but being a very soft and brittle wood, is not so
desirable for shade.

Box-elder (Negundium Americanum) or ash-leaved maple,
is very desirable for a shade, and being a hard wood, is quite
valuable for its timber. Like the linden and tulip, it is a
great favorite with bees, and yields a superior honey.
Blooming between the two, and forming a beautiful contrast
in foliage, it might be alternated with the others with nice
effect.

_ There are two or three varieties of willows, all good honey-
producers, which are great favorites as shades, and are
adapted to all sections of our country. The little care
required to propagate them, is a recommendation in their
favor.

The Eucalyptus or blue gum, will undoubtedly become as
great a favorite in our Southern States as it is in California,
and is said to be a superior and beautiful honey-producer.

The black locusts should not be overlooked in the arrange-
ment of our selection of shade trees. They are almost cer-
tain honey-producers. Although the duration of bloom is
but limited, they yield a bountiful supply of rich nectar, and
bees will literally swarm among the highly-perfumed blos-
soms. Hon. G. W. Demaree, of Kentucky, writes as follows
regarding the locust: ‘The time of year in which it blooms
nearly filling the interval between the late fruit bloom and
the white clover, makes it an exceedingly valuable auxiliary
to the honey harvest in the middle states, if not elsewhere.
It is a most profuse honey bearer, rivaling the famous linden
in quality, and only inferior to the product of the latter in
color. Locust honey cannot be said to be dark in color. It
is of a rich pale-red color, when in a liquid state; but when
in the shape of comb honey, its appearance, if removed from

BEE CULTURE, 107

the hive when first finished, is but little inferior to our supe-
rior clover honey. It becomes exceedingly thick, if left with
the bees till the cells are thoroughly sealed, and its keeping
qualities are therefore most excellent. The trees are planted
by the side of fences, in waste places, and on poor, worn-out
lands. They may be propagated from the seeds, or by trans-
planting the young trees from one to three years old. If the
«round is plowed in the spring, and the locust seeds planted
on the hills with corn, or with other hill-crops, and cultivated
the first year, the young trees will grow with great rapidity,

Fic. 79.—Limb, Pod and Seed of Honey Locust.

even on very poor lands. In this way beautiful groves can
be started, making the land, in process of time, very valua-
ble, in locations where timber is an object, besides giving a
perfect sea of bloom, ladened with precious nectar.”’

Fruit trees of all kinds are eagerly visited by the bees, and
yield plentifully of pollen as well as honey. They are entitled,
also, to consideration for the value of their fruit productions
as well as honey.

Above we have named the more common and most desira-
ble of the honey-producing trees. There are many others
which could be planted with profit, but the list gives the
names of those which can be grown almost anywhere, and

108 BEE CULTURE.

combine ornament with utility. All are worth the little
trouble they cause.

PLANTS FOR FIELD AND ROADSIDE.

Where the apiarist is so situated that a few acres of land
can be devoted to bee pasturage, we would advise that such
selections be made with a view to answering the double pur-
pose of producing honey, and grain or winter forage for stock.
Although convinced that a handsome profit can be realized
from land devoted to honey-producing alone, yet all will
admit that if a remunerative profit can be obtained from its

Fic. 80.—Sweet Clover Branch and Bloom.

cultivation for honey, and any other return be derived from
the crop, it is an additional net profit, less the cost of har-
vesting and marketing.

There are, however, many bee-keepers whose grounds are
very limited, but in whose immediate vicinity are lanes and
alleys but little used, or waste commons and worn-out fields,
which, with little labor and less expense, could be made to
give profitable employment to an apiary of one-hundred to
two-hundred colonies, thus becoming spots of beauty and
sources of revenue, instead of remaining evidences of sloth
and a public reproach.

BEE CULTURE. 109

For field or commons our first preference is decidedly
given to sweet clover or melilot (Melilotus alba). Being one
of the hardiest plants we have, it will withstand any degree
of winter’s cold or summer's heat, and its deep-penetrating
and wide-spreading roots, admirably adapt it to any variety
of soil, whether wet or dry, sand or clay, loam or gravel.
Being remarkably thrifty in growth, it will be found equal to
red clover for soiling, and can be successfully grown in loca-
tions where the latter will prove a failure. Prof. C. EH.
Thorne, of the Ohio State University, thus testifies regarding
its value as a field plant. “It will grow quite luxuriantly
in hard, poor clay, where even white clover will scarcely live
at all, and grows much more rapidly than red clover in any
soil, while in the soils that are, as is said, ‘ Clover-sick,’ it
thrives as well as anywhere. It is a good forage plant for
bees and for cattle, and is well adapted for soiling, as it
makes a growth of four to six feet during the season, and is
said to bear two or three cuttings. A German analysis
gives its hay a feeding value of fifteen dollars per ton as
against sixtcen dollars and twenty-eight cents for very good
red clover hay. While red clover, upon which our farming
in many sections, and especially in clay lands, depends so
essentially for crops of grain, is becoming more and more
uncertain. It would seem to be worth while to try this ‘ fast
weed’ as a resource for recuperative green manuring, in
heavy soils especially.”

But its greatest recommendation for the general bee-keeper
is the fact that it requires no especial cultivation, thus
making it particularly desirable for roadsides and commons.
Being a biennial, the seeds possess great vitality, and may
be kept over for a long time, and scattered a handful at a
tinre, as opportunity offers, or a bare place develops itself.
Where possible to devote even a limited time to its cultiva-
tion, the ground may be plowed and the seed lightly harrowed
under in the fall with winter wheat, or planted with barley ;
or in early spring it can be sown with wheat, oats or rye,
without detriment to the grain. If wanted, however, in its
greatest perfection, it should be planted in drills four feet
apart, and once hilled up with the cultivator. Sweet clover
blooms and yields nectar continuously in this latitude from

110 BEE CULTURE.

about June 10th till Aug. 1st, when the first sced crop ma-
tures, which is succeeded with a new foliage and profuse
second bloom about Aug. 15th, and this continues till winter
sets in. If a part of the field be mown about July 1st, it
will bloom and yield nectar, except when rains are falling or
during the prevalence of strong, adverse winds, from the
middle of June till past the middle of October—eertainly as
long a period as our impatient little workers can utilize it ;
nor will it then cease to “waste its sweetness on the desert
air,” but after the advent of winter, when all else has passed
into “the sere and yellow leaf,” its modest flowers will waft
a fragrant gcod-bye to the bees when on their last flight, and
leave pleasant memories for their long winter dreams.

H. 8. Hackman, of Illinois, commenced the season of 1881
with ten colonies, which he increased to seventy, and obtained
1,200 pounds of surplus honey—1,000 pounds of extracted
and 200 of comb honey—equal to 120 pounds per colony,
spring count, and an increase to over seven colonies from
one! Mr. Hackman, who is an experienced bee-keeper, and
whose veracity is unquestionable, in a letter dated Nov. 15,
1881, writes: ‘Please find inclosed flowers of the sweet
clover, picked from the roadside, on the prairie, yesterday,
14th inst. I suppose I owe my wonderful summer success
largely to the sweet clover. We had the hottest and driest
season we ever had—no rain from June 15th until Sept. 15th.
The hotter and drier the more honey, seemingly. Sweet clo-
ver, asa weed! Although it has been growing in our roads,
on waste land, along railroads, and on our hill-sides for
twenty-five years, it does not seem to get into the fields,
except where water has carried the seeds into low places.”

W. T. Stewart, of Kentucky, says: “ Melilot is best sown
in the fall, but will grow any time or anywhere, except on a
flat rock.”

To sum up, it is worth more to the farmer for soiling than
red clover, because of its thrifty growth ; it is a more relia-
ble pasture for cattle, sheep, etc., than red clover, because it
will thrive on soils where red clover sickens; it will yield
much more fodder than red clover, because it -will stand two
or three cuttings ; and it lacks but seven per cent. of the

BEE CULTURE. 111

nutritious properties of red clover. We can add, we believe
it is worth the cost of cultivation to the bee-keeper, for
honey alone, even though he is not the possessor of a four-
footed animal, because its flow of nectar is not affected by
atmospheric changes, as is the case with many plants, nota-
bly white clover and linden, and its honey is second to none.

Alsike or Swedish clover (Zrifolium hybridum) is also a
good grazing and honey plant, and sown in connection with

Fig. 81.—Alsike Clover.

dairying pursuits or stock-raising, will prove doubly valuable.
Mr. M. M. Baldridge, who has devoted much careful study
to this clover, says: ‘‘The stem and branches are finer and
less woody than the common red, and when cut and cured
for hay, it is perfectly free from fuzz and dust. It does not
turn black, but remains the color of well-cured timothy.
The bees have no trouble in finding the honey, as the blos-
sons are short, and the heads no larger than white clover.

112 BEE CULTURE. ‘

The blossoms at first are white, but soon change to a beauti-
ful pink, and emit considerable fragrance. It ripens in the
latitude of Chicago in the latter part of July, but need not
be cut till August, if the weather be unfavorable. The crop
of seed is always obtained from this cutting, in which respect
it is unlike the common red. It is not advisable to cut this

FIG. 82.—Alsike Clover Root and Crown FIG. 83.—Red Clover Root
averuge size, one yeur old. and Crown, one year old.

clover more than once each season, but it may be pastured
moderately during the fall. When sowed by itself, four

ounds of seed is sufficient for an acre ; but this is not the
best plan to pursue, especially on dry western prairie land.
Tt is much the best to mix it with timothy or common red
clover, or both. When thus mixed they are a help to each

BEE CULTURE. 113

other, and two pounds of alsike seed to the acre are suffi-
cient. Alsike clover as a fertilizer, must be as good a plant
as red clover, as the roots penetrate much deeper and are
more numerous. It is a clover which every farmer can and
should cultivate, whether he keeps bees or not, as it is supe-
rior to the common red for hay or pasture for all kinds of
stock.” The sced can now be had at a very moderate price,
and it is certainly worthy of a trial.

White or Dutch clover (Zrifolium repens) is too well
known to require particular description, and is associated
with too many pleasant recollections to call for commenda-

Fig. 84.— White or Dutch Clover.

tion. Its modest, unassuming bloom, has hallowed many a
sacred spot, and perpetuated enduring virtues long after the
earthly form has moldered to dust beneath. The lawn
would, indeed, seem incomplete, if still was wanting the clo-
ver carpet with its velvet surface of mingling white and
green, inviting the weary to partake of rest, and giving out
its ambrosial perfume while the grateful bees in myriads
sing from flower to flower. For its modest, cheerful appear-
ance, white clover will always be a welcome tenant of waste
corners, nooks and roadsides, and no farmer needs be told of
its value for pasturage. Its honey is only excelled by that

114 BEE CULTURE.

from sweet clover. Sow the seed in the fall, or in winter on
the snow, or harrow in with the spring rains.

There are several varieties of the mustard (Sinapis) which
furnish honey. These have been extensively cultivated for
the seeds alone, and always have a commercial value. The
length of season for bloom is quite extended, and where a
dearth of honey pasturage prevails, bees will work on them
vigorously. They bloom during July and August.

Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculentum) is familiar to every
northern bee-keeper. Its value cannot be too highly estima-

t
Fie. 85.—Buckwheat in Bloom.
ted. Its grain always commands ready sale in market, and
the honey, though dark and strong, is highly prized for man-
ufacturing and other purposes. It furnishes an excellent
winter food for the bees, and when well ripened will enable
the producer to avail himself of all the white grades of honey
stored earlier in the season. In early morning the bees work
on the buckwheat with great enthusiasm, and gather honey
from it rapidly ; but during the middle and latter part of the

day they entirely neglect it, unless the weather be quite
cloudy and humid. In the Southern States, we have been

BEE CULTURE. 115

told, buckwheat is worthless as a honey-producer, and, in fact,
the same is true of many localities in the Middle and North-
ern States ; but where it does produce honey abundantly, it is
well worth cultivation.

There are many other plants which will undoubtedly well
repay cultivation for field purposes alone, and yield a profit-
able bonus through the labors of the bees. This of course
will depend upon circumstances surrounding the apiarist.
In the list can be placed many kinds of fruits, plants, grains
and grasses, and much will depend upon the judgment and
observation of the bee-keeper.

PLANTS FOR HONEY EXCLUSIVELY.

The catalogue of honey-producing plants is almost without
end. Scarcely one but is some assistance, either in furnish-
ing honey or pollen ; but observation and judgment will be
required to determine the best.

If for the roadside, hillside or commons, where cattle,
sheep and hogs run at large, the Rocky Mountain bee plant
(Cleome integrifolia) is probably one of the best, owing to its
immunity from grazing animals. T. J. Dodds, of Iowa, says
of it: “Its habitat is clay, gravel, rock and limestone.
Our river bluffs are carbonate and magnesian limestone, our
streets and gutters are macadamized and paved with this
stone, and in this the bee plant finds its most attractive
home. Hundreds of plants can be found in sight by the
writer of this, that will measure five feet in circumference
and five feet in height. Through curiosity I went across the
street and counted the pods on one stalk alone, out of hun-
dreds of the same kind all around. They numbered 272 ; the
space occupied was 5 ft. 10 inches, height 5 ft. 8 inches;
circumference of stalk, 1} inches. No rain here for nearly
three months, yet they are green, luxuriant and beautiful.
No animal will touch them, and they outgrow everything they
come in contact with, thus proving the survival of the fittest.
Sow the seed anywhere—among rocks, on craggy hillsides,
along the highways, in fence corners where nothing useful
will grow, and where the winds and rains will spread them,
and in a few years your waste places will prove attractive to
the eye, and yield abundance of sweets for the table.” Seed

116 BEE CULTURE.

should be sown in the fall, when the plants will bloom the
next season.

Spider plant (Cleome pungens) has been attracting much
attention as a honey plant among progressive bee-keepers.
It is a beautiful and interesting plant, and produces an
abundance of fine honey, but we fear its popularity as a reli-
able honey plant will never become established. The care
required in its cultivation, and the lateness before coming
into bloom, will militate against it, so long as there are plenty

Fig. 86.—Cleome in Bloom.

equally as good which will be only too grateful for an oppor-
tunity to occupy the soil unmolested, and pay their sweet
tribute. Spider plant should be sprouted in hot-beds and
transplanted.

After several years of careful, close observation, we are
more than confirmed in the good opinion we have heretofore
formed and expressed regarding the excellence of mammoth

BEE CULTURE, 117

mignonette (Reseda grandiflora) as a honey plant. It is a
plant of vigorous, rapid growth; having a strong, deep-pene-
trating tap-root, it is very tenacious in its hold upon the soil,
and will grow, and bloom, and yield a rich return of beautiful
nectar under the most adverse circumstances ; with a sharp,
pungent taste, not unlike horse-radish, the foliage is not a
favorite resort for spiders or insects. Before white clover
has fairly passed its maximum of excellence, the graceful

Fia. 87.— Mammoth Mignonette.

and modest blossoms of the mignonette will have won the
preference of the discriminating bees. The flowers are
thickly studded on the points of curving racemes, and as the
base matures its many pods well filled with diminutive black
seeds, the point is daily presenting a succession of fresh
bloom, which continues until winter has fairly set in, thus
providing each fair day a nectar flow, despite the drenching

118 BEE CULTURE.

rains which may precede. It is not unusual to see racemes
three feet or more in length. The roots, in taste, are a
counterpart of horse-radish. The foliage is not at all similar
to Reseda odorata, and is said to be an excellent table salad.
We hope every bee-keeper will give it a fair trial, Plant
carly in the spring, in drills three feet apart, or in a hot-bed,
and transplant; but the latter method is unnecessary, as it
is perfectly hardy and will blossom quite soon enough, with
but little care. Do not plant too thick. It blossoms the
first. season.

Fie. 88.—Motherwort.

Motherwort cannot be too highly spoken of for a honey
plant, and in the order of progress is destined to become very
popular. Its blossoms make their appearance in July, and
it remains constantly in bloom till frost, and its green leaves
are among the first visible foliage in spring. The stalks are
quite large and vigorous, and once well rooted, it blooms and
thrives under very adverse circumstances. Like catnip, it is

BEE CULTURE, 119

not a great favorite with grazing animals, and may be planted
on the roadsides and commons where stock are allowed to
run at large. Four pounds of seed per acre are an abund-
ance, and it may be sown at any time, after which it needs
no further attention, and will replant itself. It thrives well
among the timber, or in open places.

Simpson honey-plant (Figwort) is quite desirable, but of
slow growth. The best method of cultivating is by sprout-
ing in hot-beds and transplanting. The growth is slow, but
once well rooted, 1t may be perpetuated for years, and fur-
nishes honey quite plentifully. The plants attain considera-
ble dimensions. The flower is quite small and unassuming,
but the stalk grows tall and is very graceful in appearance.

Catnip (Nepeta cataria) can be planted any time and any
where. It makes a vigorous growth, and possesses much
vitality. Bees work on it early and late, and the honey is
excellent. Four pounds of seed per acre. It may be sown
any time.

We doubt not there are many plants accessible to all bee-
keepers, and each adapted more especially to particular or
peculiar localities, quite as good as any we have named.
But we have already enumerated sufficient from which a very
desirable selection can be made for any locality, and all of
which will prove very profitable. By all means give each a
trial, and select the best for all purposes, after which give
those the preference. As farmers are constantly testing the
best grains suited to their particular wants, or the best for-
age for their especial grades of stock, so should bee-keepers
be equally generous to their bees, and considerate of them-
selves and their best interests to give at least a liberal
thought to the subject.

HONEY PLANTS FOR DECORATIVE PURPOSES.

Unless actually seen, no idea can be formed of the beauti-
ful and pleasing effect which can be produced by honey
plants, when artistically and tastefully arranged. Even the
most common of our wild plants, with a little thought and
trouble, can be made to transform a very homely lawn into a
seeming paradise, and the addition of a column here, with its
niches supplied with variegated wild flowers, and a trellis

120 BEE CULTURE,

there, covered with blooming vines attractive to the bees, and
now and then a flowery diamond, or a heart or circle, will
lend an enchantment to the lawn, rivaling the more expensive
exotic displays whose main features are the lavish expendi-
ture of money, and which delight the eye only when first
beheld, then become monotonous because planned alone to
please the eye. z

In arranging the garden or lawn, especial reference should
always be studied to present the greatest contrast in colors,

Fie. 89.—Column for Drive-way or Lawn.

and yet have them blend in a harmonious whole, so that, let
the eye turn which way it will, something new and pleasing
will be seen, but nothing abrupt should be presented to
startle or tire.

Mr. W. C. Barry, in an essay read before the American
Association of Nurserymen, in 1881, truthfully says:

BER CULTURE. 121

“Qardens are to be seen which haye been planned and
planted utterly regardless of all rules of landscape gardening.
Those who have a knowledge of the art cannot refrain from
noticing the blunders that are made, and it is particularly
annoying to them to see fine grounds, which might have been
rendered exceedingly interesting, utterly ruined by injudi-
cious planning and planting. The owners of such grounds,
though they know nothing about gardening, feel that they
have made grave errors, but that it is beyond their power to
correct them. One of the mistakes most frequently com-
mitted, is that of planting indiscriminately—leaving no
breadth of turf, and destroying the lawn without realizing
any effects from the plantings. If we look about us we shall
see how often this occurs; yet it seems very strange that
gentlemen who have spent thousands upon a house, would be
willing to sacrifice beautiful grounds by careless planting.
The same attention and care which are bestowed upon the
house should be devoted to the garden, in order that the
house and its surroundings may present one harmonious
whole. Another common error is that of planting trees
which attain large size, in small lots. A tall elm or Norway
spruce, or other large trees, is very much out of place on a
small lawn. There is no excuse for errors of this kind, for
there are numbers of trees of secondary size, which can be
employed with advantage.”

If the lawn be spacious, a couple of columns similar to the
one illustrated on page 120 (fig. 89) can be cheaply constructed
and painted, and covered with vines and flowering plants,
all affording a rich and continuous field for the bees, and
adding wonderfully to the general effect. Fig. 90 illustrates
a residence with a narrow front lawn, decorated neatly, but
cheaply.

If a pond or considerable depression occurs in the grounds,
it can be transformed very easily into a beauty-spot, and be
made to contribute to the profits derived from the apiary, as
also to the pleasure of the beholder. Where golden rods,
wild bergamot, asters, and other honey plants grow sponta-
neously in the neighborhood, we would give them the prefer-
ence in cultivating, as they would be hardier, more easily

developed, and neighbors not keeping bees would be encour-

122 BEE CULTURE.

aged to foster them for their natural, but hitherto unappre-
ciated beauty. Clumps of pussy or button willows might be
transplanted to the grounds with little trouble, and the
alder-berry bush would be a beautiful substitute for the pop-
ular, but almost worthless, snow-ball. Beds of asters would
look delightful, and mints of all kinds, sage, summer savory,
__ sweet alyssum, and many other plants could be used in vari-

egated beds or for borders. By pursuing this course, not

Fia. 90.—A Floral Lawn.

members of the family (and the older ones, too) would exhibit
a wonderful aptitude for effective floriculture, which in turn
would lead to the study and acquirement of a botanical
education, This will be found an important and useful
accomplishment, to aid in discriminating against obnoxious
and poisonous flowers and shrubs, such as foxglove (Digitalcs),
mountain laurel, oleander, ete.

We quote from Mr. W. T. Stewart, of Kentucky, the fol-
lowing very appropriate hints on the subject, which will give
a general idea of what to do, and how best to do it, leaving
to the gardener the exercise of taste to vary the plans to suit
surroundings :

BEE CULTURE. 123

“To make a beautiful mound, or what will appear to be a
mound, yet is only level ground, plant that which grows
tallest in the center of a ring or circle, next tallest outside
of that, and so on down to a creeping ground plant. For
instance, you want a mound twelve feet across, six or eight
feet high in center, gradually sloping off lower until it is on
a level with the ground. You will first mark it off in rings,
say eighteen inches apart. Now transplant in the center
ring cight or ten fine plants of figwort; it grows six to

Fia. 91.—Fox Glove, pretty but poisonous.

eight feet high, filled with beautiful seed pods as large as
buckshot. Next row transplant with goldenrod ; grows four
to six feet high ; then the next row plant in spider plant,
which grows three to five feet high, and its pretty pink flowers
contrasting strikingly with the golden rod. Next row trans-
plant with motherwort and catnip mixed equally; two feet
high ; bloom white. Next row plant princess feather ; bloom
is scarlet and an excellent honey plant. Next row, white
mustard ; one foot high; bloom gclden yellow. Next row
transplant peppermint ; bloom white. Last row, ground ivy,
a creeping vine, and good for bees. This will, when grown

124 BEE CULTURE.

up, appear to be a costly mound, most beautiful to the eye of
man or bee. We can make a basin in the same way by
reversing the plants, putting the lowest in the center, and so
on. By a little study and ingenuity in planting we can con-
trive many pretty designs that cost nothing, and have every
plant to pay nearly as well as vegetables in a garden. Plant
in groups of various colored bloom and varied foliage, too,
among our bee hives, making them contrast with the color of

Fia. 92.— Round Ribbon Flower Bed.

the hives, etc. Plant a row of basswood, poplar, locust, elm
or maple all round the fence, and keep trimmed nicely.
Plums, pears and cherries among your hives, for shade, honey
and fruit; gooseberries, currants and raspberries can all be
made ornamental in the shape of hedges around poultry
yards, garden walk, etc., and all are good honey plants, too.

“For trellises, around porches, verandas and windows as
a running vine, there is nothing superior to the Clematis for

Fia. 93.—Diamond Ribbon Flower Bed.

beauty, shade or honey. Various colored hollyhocks may be
used to advantage in grouping or single; it is also a good
honey producer, but better for pollen. A few stalks of buck-
wheat worked in for variety or contrast, does not look badly.
Make a border of peppermint on each side of every walk and
outer edges of flower beds, and even around the door and
gate, so that every time there is any passing around, the
eluthing or feet will brush against the peppermint. In this
way your lawn is constantly perfumed, and you will be sur-
prised to see how much mint you can have growing in this

BEE CULTURE, 125

way, and also surprised to see how the bees take to it through
August and September—just when they need it. If you
have a low, wet spot on your grounds, plant there a clump of
willows. With a group of six or eight willows growing on
your lawn, you can make it the center of attraction. By
bending and tying them together you can make them grow
in every conceivable shape—chairs, ladders, hoops, ete., can

——=—

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as WM a ahh ie

S55 5Sse5 se S= 5 5 a"

a <<centE TNGUTITTE au
Fig. 94.—Floral Window.

be had growing; besides, it is beautiful as a shade tree, and
one among the most useful of all honey producers, because it
comes so early in the spring, and is full of nectar for early
use. Plant a tree of either elm or basswood (twelve feet
apart is about right), one on each side of your gate ; when
they arrive at the right height, bend and tie them together
in the form of an arch ; keep them tied until they have grown
in that shape. An arch over the gate is pretty, and these
trees are good for forage.

126 BEE CULTURE.

“Make a ring or diamond of ten feet in diameter and
transplant into it dandelions six inches apart all around the
outside, then fill up the center by transplanting wild turkey
peas, thickly set. This is very pretty ; early in spring the

we

¥Fia. 95.—Laying out a Flower Bed.

bed will be white as snow and the border yellow. Both are
good honey producers, and they come so very early that they
are quite a luxury for our bees. A hedge all around the
fences of motherwort is quite a bonanza. You will notice
that most all the plants I have named for ornamenting are

Fia. 96.—Care of the Flowers.

such as will only require planting once, and come from the
old root for years afterward. Remember, that it is the
design and in the ingenuity displayed in planting that attracts
the attention of visitors, more than the quality of plants.
Common vlants, when ingeniously modeled, are prettier than

BEE CULTURE 127

costly green-house plants scattered helter skelter, without
any pretense to form or model. But when you have laid out
beautiful models of common plants, your wife will be sure to
improve their appearance by the addition of a few pet grecn-
house plants, which are not honey produccrs themselves.
But they will not drive the bees away from those that do
produce it.

“When once we have introduced this novelty in our town,
we will soon see our neighbors trying to imitate it more or
less, because of the novelty of it (not for bee forage). But
our bees will go over and appropriate it to their use just the
same as if it was purposely for them. But we must keep

i)

Fic. 97.—Spike of Giant Mignonette.

still as to the purpose of such a lawn, and let people just
think that the novelty of the thing is the main point, if we
wish them to appreciate it or pattern after it on their own
lawns. If people in general knew that such a lawn was
intended for forage for bees, it would lose half its charms in
their estimation ; but work on, getting up novelties, and say
nothing about the bee part of it, and you will see that it is
contagious, and people will gradually fall into novelty lawn
planting.”

The American Agriculturist gives, in its March number,
1882, the following excellent advice, bearing upon the sub-
ject of selecting the fittest for general honey bloom. We
take pleasure in recommending its careful perusal to those

128 BEE CULTURE,

who are locating homes in the treeless Territories which are
included in the Act of Congress granting domain for planting
forest trees ; and especially is it desirable that apiarists in
those districts persuade and assist new settlers in making the
proper selections :

“From the middle of March, and even earlier, in the far
South, to the middle of April, is the time to attend to spe-
cial planting for bees. As well remarked by Mr. Coffinberry
at the National Convention (October, 1881), no subject con-
nected with apiculture is more deserving attention. If cach
colony of bees in the four to six weeks of storing can give
one-hundred pounds of honey to the apiarist, what might be

Fic. 98.—Head of Goldenrod.

expected, could they be kept at work the whole season
through? The great fall yield from autumn flowers, in
Michigan and some other States, suggests the answer. The
past season, in some sections, the autumn yield was more
than all the restofthe crop. Yetsuch menasG. M. Doolittle,
L. ©. Root, and others, if we are rightly informed, get no
autumn yield at all. Surely this matter of providing plants
for bee pasturage is worthy of consideration.

“Road-side tree planting is attracting much attention at
the present time. Dr. Warder, of Ohio, and others, are
giving the subject their best thought and study. The Legis-
latures of some States encourage tree planting by appointing
‘¢ Arbor days ””—days set apart for tree planting, and even
by granting homesteads, and exemption from taxes to those

BEE CULTURE. 129

who will devote time to this important work. Why do not
bee-keepers sce to it that the valuable maples, which furnish
early pollen and honey, are accompanied by the still more
valuable and equally beautiful basswood and tulip tree,
called poplar at the South, and in regions where they will do

Fic. 99.—Branch and Blossoms of Sourwood.

well, the sourwood and Judas tree. Would not a little
energy secure these trees at least in goodly proportions in
the roadside tree planting? No tree excels in beauty the
basswood and tulip tree, and the great amount and excellence
of the nectar which they furnish is well known. It is wise

130 BEE CULTURE.

in the matter of bee food, as elsewhere, to add as many
‘strings to one’s bow’ as is possible.

“ Every bee-keeper may well see to it that waste places along
roadsides by railroads, etc., are covered with figwort, Rocky
Mountain bee plant, spider plant, catnip, motherwort, and
melilot or sweet clover. This last is a most valuable honey
plant, but some of our farmers object to it as a troublesome
weed. How is this? Many who have tried it say it is not
troublesome in the least. Ifa pest, why did Prof. Thorn,
of the Ohio State University, recommend it lately as a good
forage plant, and as very desirable for green manuring ?

Fic. 100.—Bed of Marigolds.

“ Bee-keepers should also try to get farmers to sow alsike
clover, even if they have to furnish the seed. It will pay
both parties largely, without doubt. The mammoth red
clover is also a good bee plant.

“As all bee-keepers well know, nearly all our plants fail
in times of drouth. True, the mustards and borage yield
some honey, but not bountifully. Why should we not try
to introduce the famous white sage of California? This
plant owes its very existence to its power of resistance to
drouth, We may try if it can be grown in the Hast, and
what the result will be in yield of nectar.

“Let me urge bee-keepers not to allow the spring to pass
without an effort to do something in the way of culture of
special honey plants,”

:

SS

Al (SS i
n SSS

x ay) = Ay
= = Za
7 SS J ee a fy

Tae

California Honey-Plant, Filaree.—1. General form; 2. Stalk; 3 Leaf.

Combs Built by Apis Dorsata.

Plan for an Apiary by Dr. Whiting.

Stinyless Bees of Central America.

BEE CULTURE. 131

IMPROVEMENT IN BEES,

To obtain the best results we must possess the highest
grade of bees that it is possible to obtain. Our object being
to elevate the race, no deterioration should be countenaneed, ,
and the most thorough and rigid treatment must be employed,
all looking to the building up of a strain of bees that will
give the best of results.

The queen must be prolific to be able to keep the hive full
of bees, to gather the honey harvest when it comes ; the bees
must be industrious to let nothing escape their vigorous
search while gathering the sweet nectar ; they must be docile
to allow the apiarist to manipulate them with ease and
pleasure ; they must be strong and hardy, to withstand the
rapid changes in climate ; and must be of singular beauty, to
attract the admiration of the fancier of fine stock.

“The bee of the future” will be present at the very
moment when the slumbering flower, under the penetrating
dew, awakes to consciousness, and unfolds its buds to take
in the first rays of the morning sun. The ideal bee will dip
into that tiny fountain, which distills the honey drop by drop,
and bear off its honeyed treasure to its cells of virgin comb.

In developing the highest strain of horses, not all their
offspring are equal to the best; careful selection of those
coming the nearest to the ideal animal must always be chosen,
from which to breed, and the closest scrutiny is necessary
while making that selection. The same is true of' cattle,
sheep, hogs, poultry and bees. “Sports” and “ variations”
continually occur, producing inferior progeny ; but all care-
ful breeders who have an eye to the improvement of the race,
will reject those that do not come up to the “standard of
excellence,” sending such animals and poultry to the
shambles—so Ict us carefully select the best queens and
drones to breed from, and remorselessly sacrifice all others.

132 BEE CULTURE.

In searching for the best bees, we have tried and discarded
the Carniolan, Dalmatian, Smyrnian, Herzegovinian and the
Egyptian, In 1866, two eminent Germans, Count Kolowrat
and Hern Cori, imported the first Cyprian bees into Europe,
but to Italy and America belong the honor of putting forth
the greatest exertions to produce the best bees in the World.
Did not Signor J. Fiorini, an Italian, make a journey to the
Island of Cyprus and to Palestine in search of Cyprian and
Syrian becs, to improve the race of Italian bees by crossing,
or to improve those races by careful breeding? Mr. D. A.
Jones, of Canada, at a cost of thousands of dullars, also
journeyed to the Island of Cyprus and to Palestine, for the
same object; he secured many colonies of Syrian bees, and
established an apiary in Cyprus, in charge of Mr. Benton, a
brave and fearless American, who (to his honor be it stated)
has journeyed through Arabia, India, Ceylon, and the Kast
Indies, and in the face of danger and difficulties untold, in
scarch of some superior race of bees, or some that may be
improved by judicious breeding. True, he has not becn as
successful as could have been desired, but he has planted in
Ceylon some colonies of bees from Italy and Cyprus, and if
a “cross” of any value can be obtained between these and
Anis dorsata, or Apis florea, he has placed it among the pos-
sibilities, in the development of “the bee of the future.”

With the different species of bees now at hand from every
clime, history will repeat itself—the improved merino sheep
but typifies the improved honey bee of.the future. For ages
the fine-wooled sheep of Spain had been famous, but were
not to be had until the French invasion of Spain made it
possible. The American merino sheep is a descendant of the
best sheep of Spain—but, by the careful American breeder,
it is made to yield four times as much wool as the original
Spanish sheep. The skillful and scientific breeding of bees
promises as great a triumph for America, as the development
of that famous ten thousand dollar buck, “Gold Drop.”

Dr. J. P. H. Brown. of Georgia, at the National Conven-
tion of 1881, reported that the tongues of the Cyprian bees,.
in a trial of six, aggregated 1-32 of an inch longer than he
reiched with six of his improved Italians, and they in turn
aggregated 3-32 of an inch (one-tenth) longer than the
imported Italians.

“A[BAT ‘OlOpuBIoW AvOT ‘TNIMOIA JousIg yo Aruidy

"
i

MU
Ue
4

i

SEARCHING FOR APIS DORSATA,

BEE CULTURE. 133

Equally pronounced is the result of Prof. Couk's numerous
microscopical measurements of the tongues of the Syrian
bees, which he finds to equal those of the Cyprians, and .006

SV fon Geek

B

Fig. 101.—Tongue of the Honey Bee.
A—Tongue extended ; B—Ligula, sheath extended ; C—Cross section of ligula.

of an inch longer than those of the Italian. If the Syrians
are capable of as great improvement as has taken place in
the Italians up to this time, we may count upon a tongue

134 BEE CULTURE

more than one-third of an inch in length, which will be suffi-
cient to reach the nectar in the first bloom of red clover.

In 1879 we attended the great Bee and Honey Shows and
Congresses of Europe, and took with us some bees from the
apiary of the BEE JocRNAL—not to “astonish the natives,”
nor to arouse the jealousy of those of Foreign climes—but to
get a frank and free expression of opinion concerning them
from some of the best apiarists of the World: We submitted
them to such eminent men as Signors Pietro Pilati and the
late Lucio Paglia, two extensive : Italian bee brecders ; Mons.
Dennler, editor of the Alsacian Bienen Zuechter; Mons. Kd.
Bertrand, editor of the Budletin D’ Apiculteur, of Switzer-
land; Herr Kail Gatter, editor of Bienen Vater, in Vienna,
Austria ; Mons. Ed. Drory, late editor of LZ’ Apiculteur, Bor-
deaux, Franee ; Mons. H. Hamet, editor of L’ Apiculteur,
Paris; Count Gactano Barbo, President of the ‘Central
Societie d'Apicoltore ;” Count Alfonso’ Visconti de Saliceto,
editor of ZL’ Apicoltore, at Milan, Italy ; the great Dr. Dzier-
zon; the Countess, widow of the late ‘Baron of Berlepsch ;
the late Herr Augustus Schmid, editor of the Bienen Got.
tung; Herr Emil Hilbert ; Herr Vogel, and many others,
whose names are “ household words ” “throughout the apicul-
tural World—and these American-bred Italians were pro-
nounced the most beautiful bees they had ever examined.

LP? Apicoltore for October, 1879, contained the follow-
ing: “We have had a visit from Signor T. G. Newman,
editor of the AMERICAN BEE JourRNAL, and President of the
North American Bee-Keepers’ Society, who exhibited to us
some samples of American-bred Italian bees obtained by
constant selection of the best to breed from. They were
workers and drones the most beautifel we have ever seen.
Their color was of a splendid light yellow ; the rings of the
abdomen were also yellow, with the exception of the last,
which was blackish, yet the sides were yellow. On the corse-
let, near the junction of the abdomen, they were of purer
yellow than we had ever seen on any other bees.”

The bee of the “future” will be the one that will gather
the most honey, be the most prolific, and, at the same time,
the most docile, hardy and industrious ; and when produced,
whatever may be its color or markings, its name will be Apis
Americana !

‘98s — ‘punlbus ‘wopuo'y ur nyyag hou unypnuny

BEE TENT OF C. H. LAKE AT THE FAIR GROUNDS.

BEE CULTURE. 135

HONEY AND BEE SHOWS.

Public manipulations with bees and magnificent honey
exhibits would be the most attractive features of State,
County, and District Fairs. There are many good reasons for
introducing such, but the chief one, perhaps, is that those
who produce honey for the market may be induced to present
it in the most marketable shape ; for the new methods and
new ideas of practical management must take the place of
the old and undesirable ones.

It is our aim to make honey a staple product. To this end
we have endeavored to popularize the consumption of honey
by the masses, as well as to raise the standard of production,
by applying correct principles and progressive art to the
management of the apiary.

Bees and honey are already the great attraction at such
fairs as have given prominence to this industry—and this
will become more apparent each successive year. The offi-
cers of the St. Joseph, Mo., Exposition were surprised at the
result of their experiment in encouraging the apiarian depart-
ment; they realized the fact that it formed the greatest
attraction presented by the Exposition.

The editor of the Gazette gave his views of the subject in
the following article: “Few things last week brought us so
many pleasant and profitable things combined—as the dis-
play of honey made at the fair, and the lecture of Mr. New-
man, of Chicago, on “Bees and Honey.” The attention
given to the subject this year marks a new era; the display
attracted very great attention ; good prizes were offered and
awarded ; the bee-keepers of the region were encouraged, and
amore general interest was aroused in the subject. The
lecture was very practical, and contained many hints that are
invaluable. But practical as it was, the pleasure of the
apiary as well as the profit was told; for Mr. Newman is an
enthusiast, as, to use his own words, all bee-keepers are,”

136 BEE CULTURE.

Mr. Musser, Superintendent of the department, wrote as
follows: ‘The exhibits of last year have worked up quite
an interest in progressive apiculture in this vicinity. Many
then, for the first time, saw the new apiarian improvements,
single comb sections, comb foundation, etc., and had never
heard of planting anything for their bees to get honey from.
Not one cent in premiums was offered last year, but this year
over $120, besides diplomas are offered, and next year I know
we can double the amount.”

The managers of the St. Joseph Fair, have, by their fore-
sight, given a good example for others to follow, and we hope

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Fig. 102.—Corner of Building enclosed with Netting.

the time will speedily come when apiculture, so long neglected
by the managers of fairs, will receive its due share of
attention. Liberal premiums should be offered for the best
exhibits, and these premiums should cover a large variety of
special points in order to make the competition the more
lively, as well as to enhance apiarian science in general.

Fig. 102 shows one corner of a room on the second floor of
a building on the Fair grounds, enclosed by mosquito bar—
the hives of bees being inside, with a tube connecting with

House for Exhibits on Fair Grounds.

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BEE CULTURE, 137

the entrances running ‘through the sides of the building,
allowing the bees free passage in and out of the hives.
Manipulation or examination of the bees, may be accomplished
by:-going inside the netting, and no one outside need be dis-
turbed by the bees. Fig. 103 shows the ground plan of the
same corner: A shows the netting; B, C, D, E, F, G shows
the entrance tubes to the hives.
When in Great Britain, during the summer of 1879,
we found that the most attractive features of the fairs were
the public manipulations with bees, and the large display of
honey of captivating beauty. There they had a large tent
(fig. 104) ; the inner circle being enclosed by mosquito bar or
netting around the sides and about eight feet high, leaving
the top entirely open. Around this circle is a passageway,

Fig. 103.—Corner of Building showing Entrance Tubes.

covered with canvas above and outside, about eight feet
high, and six feet broad; in this inclosure the audience
assemble to witness the manipulations with bees.

We gave eight half-hour lectures in this tent; each time
the inclosure was full of eager listeners. Two of these were
delivered at the Scottish Bee and Honey Show, at Perth,
concerning which the Dundee Advertiser'remarks: “The
manipulating tent was a scence of great interest during the
show. It is of octagon shape, the operator standing in the
middle, while the public feel secure under the protection of
an intervening gauze screen. Driving bees from a straw
skep and transferring their combs to a bar-frame hive, were
hourly operations, and never failed to strike with astonish-
ment the spectators, who stood aghast at seeing a human
being unprotected turning up a hive of bees, and handling
them as if they were blue flies. Mr. Thos. G. Newman, edi-

138 BEE CULTURE,

tor of the AMERICAN BEE JoURNAL, was present, and gave
lectures on American bee-keeping, which were very interest-
ing. The Society presented to him a medal as a souvenir of
his visit to this country, and for the valuable services he has
rendered to the present session of the Society.”

For exhibiting bees, observatory hives were used—those
having glass sides, through which the bees may be seen at
work—the hives being inside the exhibition building, with a
tube covering the entrance, and running through the side of
the building, giving free passage, in and out, for the bees.

Fig. 104.—Bee Tent near Column Vase.

Sometimes, a glass box inclosing each frame, arranged like
leaves of a book, with a common entrance to all of them,
from the tube running through the side of the building, is
made to exhibit bees. This gives an opportunity for thorough
examination of the whole colony.

THE EFFECT OF BEE AND HONEY SHOWS.

A correspondent in the London Horticultural Journal, says:
“T ean state without fear of contradiction that never in the
memory of man has there been such a desire to keep bees as
at the present time. People here have been so encouraged in

BEE CULTURE. 139

bee-keeping as taught in the bee tents, that I have almost
daily applications for instructions concerning bees and hives.”

A letter from a gentleman in England says: “The Amer-
ican honey introduced into this country in the “prize”

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boxes, have exercised a complective influence upon the
honey show this year. The season being wore propitious
than last—the large number of American surplus boxes im-

140 BEE CULTURE.

ported into this country, have gone into use, and the ninety-
eight different exhibits, displayed at least a variety never
found at an American fair, while the highest prizes in any
class, were awarded to the honey in American sections.”

Concerning the Toronto Bee and Honey Show, Mr. Wm.
F. Clarke says: ‘“ Under the stimulus of the liberal prize
list, there was a magnificent array of honey. The directors
appropriated an entire building to the use of bee-keepers, and
for the first time at a great exhibition on the American con-
tinent, ‘‘ honey hall”’ advertised itself side by side with hor-
ticultural hall, dairy hall, ete. Honey was displayed in every
form, calculated to make the mouths of spectators water.
The tin packages and cans were gorgeously colored and
labeled ; the glass jars were in various beautiful shapes, and
even the wooden boxes displayed a wonderful diversity of
taste. In the center was a miniature church, ingeniously
built of honey comb and wax, with pinnacles and spire. A
smashing trade in honey was done at the exhibition. Thou-
sands of people might be seen with gay-looking tin cans
dangling from their fingers, or with pretty glass jars in their
hands, or nice boxes under their arms. They bought and
eatried them home very much as is usually done with toys
and trinkets on such occasions. Tue success of this show
awakens great expectations as to the future of bee-keeping in
this country.”

Of the Honey Show in San Francisco, Cal., the Semi- Tropic
said: ‘The attractive display of bees and honey formed a
center around which apiarists literally swarmed. One hun-
dred and two varieties of honev-producing flowers, formed a
novel and interesting feature of this exhibition. The deco-
rations of white sage were tasteful and appropriate, and the
nectar itself, in jars arranged in pyramidal shape, clear as
crystal, supported by frame after frame of comb honey, snowy
and inviting, made a picture which cannot be photographed
except by the artist memory. There were samples of excel-
lent honey vinegar, almost colorless, and above average in
acidity ; several samples of fruit preserved in honey with un-
deniable success, and three kinds of honey cake, which elicited
the warmest praise from those who were fortunate enough
to secure a sample. Fruit cake made with honey is richer
and retains moisture much longer than that made of sugar.”

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APIARY OF MR. FRANK BENTON,

BEE CULTURE. 141

THE WINTERING OF BEES.

Notwithstanding much has been said and written regarding
the requisites for successful wintering, the problem yet seems
unsolved. In Russia, in order to evade the rigors of winter,
a deep pit or subterranean vault is dug in the ground, and
the “gums” containing the bees are piled one above the
other several feet below the surface; then a straw hut is
constructed above-ground, over the pit, with a door for ven-
tilation in the leeward side, to carry off the moisture and heat
‘from the bees, If fifty per cent. of the bees survive till
spring the bee-keeper feels much encoiraged. In our Central
and Northern States, cellar repositories seem to have met
with more favor than perhaps any other plan ; still, some ex-
pericnced and comparatively quite successful apiarists are
found among the advocates of numerous other methods, most
prominent of which are chaff hives on summer stands, double-
wall hives, frame hives with deep combs, ete.

To account for the many failures of all the popular methods
numerous theories have been put forth by the wise ones,
while others stand aghast at having had their pet theories
proven mere chimeras ; and even the most confident look for-
ward with trembling anxiety, scarcely knowing which is the
strongest sentiment—hope or fear. Breed our bees up to
what standard we may, create a popular demand for honey
till it is as eagerly sought after as bread, build up the price
till our profits count cent. per cent. when Providence ordains
a favorable winter, and yet, with all these, there is a nervous
anxiety about the business that is not dispelled till we have
passed the last nipping frost of spring. Disguise the fact as
we may, until some method for wintering is devised—that is,
a method which will prove as safe and certain for a medium
weak colony as a strong one; which will at all times give
bees access to their stores let them be in what part of the
hive they may ; that will be as safe in a long, inclement win-

142 BEE CULTURE.

ter, such as 1880-81, as they were the winter before; that
will carry a colony through on the lowest minimum of honey ;
that will be cheap of construction and easy of application—
until then, the success attending bee-keeping will be more or
less a matter of chance.

All the best apicultural authorities of the present day, as
well as those who have gone before, give the following as
absolute requisites for safe wintering: 1. An even temper-
ature ranging from 42° to 45°. 2. Complete expulsion or
absorption of moisture from the body of the hive. 3. Per-
fect freedom from outward disturbances. 4. Protection of
stores from contact with frost. 5. Protracted isolation from
atmospheric changesin spring. 6. Exclusion of light. 7. Suf-
ficient stores for winter consumption. It is generally
admitted that with these seven contingencies provided for,
there will be no hazard in wintering, and it is further
admitted, that no plan so far practiced combines all these
essentials.

There have been various devices gotten up, such as chaff-
packed hives, porous-wall hives and double-wall hives, many
of which have proved very effective during an ordinary win-
ter, and all ot which, as a rule, were much better than no
protection at all, but with such a winter as that of 1880-81,
all methods of out-door packing were more or less faulty,
except where all the other requirements were most amply pro-
vided for. The winter of 1881-82 was quite to the other
extreme—but few periods occurring where more than two or
three weeks elapsed without a purifying flight, and bees
wholly unprotected seemed to fare quite as well as those
packed or cellared with the greatest care.

CHAFF PACKING FOR WINTER.

Under this heading we will embrace all the different
methods for wintering on the summer stand. The double-
wall hive, perhaps, will convey the best idea, which can be
modified to suit the convenience or judgment of the apiarist.
The hive illustrated uses the Gallup frame, which is nearly
square, the top-bar being 134 inches long; end bars, 103
inches, and the bottom bar 112 inches, making a frame
12x11 inches outside. The body of the hive is square,
measuring 184x184 inches outside. D KE are reversible cases,

BER CULTURE, 143

closed on one side each with § inch boards, and top mounted
with metal rabbets. These can be packed with chaff, straw
or leaves, and the open side covered with burlaps, tacked
around the edges ; or the spaces can be left unfilled, forming
an air-space between the outer and inner walls of the hive.
For wintering on summer stands, these inner cases may be
‘turned, bringing the warm cushions next the bees. This
forms an absorbent of inside moisture, and also keeps the
bees at an even temperature, being warm in winter and cool
in summer. With the Langstroth hive, double front and rear
can be used, and by inserting a division-board at each side,

Fig. 106.—Hive with Chaff Packing for Winter.

and filling with chaff, or taking out two brood-frames, and
slipping down a chaff or straw cushion, the sides will be pro-
vided for; then a woolen blanket over, on which a chaff or
straw cushion may be placed, and the hive cover placed over
all. We like Mr. C. F. Muth’s suggestion to bore a hole in
each end of the cover, above the packing, to give escape to
the moisture from above, and prevent the formation of frost
and mold in the hive.

Another method is, to surround the hive with a box some
six inches larger, then put the hive in, provide a winter pas-
sage out from the entrance, and fill with sawdust, forest
leaves or chaff; leaving the cover off the hive, filling in on
top, over the blanket or cushion with packing loose, and then

144 BEE CULTURE.

cover the box. In all cases of packing on the summer stand,
a passage-way should be made through each comb, a little
above and back of the center, or three-quarter inch square
sticks be laid over the tops of the frames, to afford the bees
a passage from comb to comb, to reach their stores without
going to the extreme ends of the frames to pass around.

For wintering on summer stands, all preparations should be
made early enough in the fall to admit of ample feeding in case
of a scarcity of stores, as they cannot often be fed afterward
without great disturbance.

PREPARING THE CELLAR FOR WINTERING.

The first step in this direction, is to be assured that the
cellar is sufficiently warm to prevent the freezing of potatoes,
apples, ete., and provided with sufficient ventilation to allow
of the escape from it of noxious gases and heat generated by
the bees. It is wisdom to provide a means of letting in cold
air from the outside, should occasion require. Although
when unoccupied the cellar may be at a mean temperature of
40° I’., if 100 colonies be placed in it they would soon gener-
ate sufficient animal heat to run the mercury up to 50°, or
even more. The bee apartment should be separate by itself,
and not so situated as to be subject to constant invasions by
individuals or vermin. The covers should be removed from
the hives, one or two thicknesses of waolen or cotton cloth
spread over the frames, two or three inch-square sticks laid
crosswise of the hive, and the next one sct on top and treated
the same way, proceeding thus till all are neatly and carefully
piled up. This work should not be done till the fall is so far
advanced that the bees will be quite chilled, and exhibit but
little activity when slightly disturbed. Of course, too much
care cannot be exercised to do all your work gently, and if
you can do so without the bees knowing they are being moved,
it will be much better. When all are nicely piled away,
darken every nook and crack, so that should the bees venture
to the entrances to the hives, they might think it a perpetual
night. At least every fortnight enter your bee apartment
with a dark lantern, and satisfy yourself that all progresses
favorably. If the thermometer indicates above 45° F., admit
cold air at night ; if below 40° F-., partly close the escape, to
bring the mercury up to the desired temperature. Be cer-

BEE CULTURE. 145

tain, before winter has come, that all are provided with
thirty-pounds each of good honey, and they are provided for
a four month’s repose.

HOUSE FOR WINTERING BEES,

Mr. W. L. Drake has invented a triple-walled house for
this purpose, and to be used for a dairy house in summer.
The house is built of brick. The illustration gives an end
view of the house, with door closed and air-supply drafts

|
Fia. 107.—Triple- Wall Winter Bee House.

open. O, gives a view with the corner bricks removed,
exposing the air-spaces in the wal]. The outer air-space
completely envelopes the middle and inner brick wall, and is
intended for a circulating air chamber. The inner space isa
dead-air chamber, completely enveloping the inner wall, and
entirely disconnected from the outer air chamber. Hisa
flue connecting with the body of the room, for the purpose of

146 BEE CULTURE.

drawing off the heat and permitting the escape of noxious
gases generated by the bees. It will be observed the flues
or dampers connected with the outer or circulating air
chamber can be opened or closed at will, to regulate the
temperature in the outer space, and this again can be dis-
charged in the main room by means of flues piercing through
and independent of the dead air or second space. The floor
and ceiling are each double, air-tight, and connected with the
dead-air space. The outer or front door is a double battened
door, with an inner or sash door. A house of this kind,
12x18 feet, will accommodate about 300 colonies.

Mr. F. W. Comings gives the following description of a
house which passed the ordeal of the winter of 1880-81 with
the loss of but two, which succumbed from starvation: ‘The
house is 12x18 feet, and studding ten feet. There being no
cellar under it, we dug a trench about two feet deep, and laid
a heavy stone wall init. The sills were 6x14 inches. We
then put up a set of 2x5 inch studs, and double-boarded the
outside and sided up the inside, filling the wall with sawdust.
Then put up a set of 1x2 inch studs against this wall and
sided up; then another set of 2x5 inch studs and sided with
matched spruce, filling the second wall with sawdust. Thus
we have two five-inch stuffed walls, and an inch dead-air
space between them. Overhead we put ten inches of sawdust,
and studded the floor, using four inches for that. We use
three doors in one end, in winter, making two dead-air
spaces. Have ample ventilations in roof and floor.”

WINTERING BEES IN CLAMPS,

Mr. M. Quinby favored wintering bees by burying, which
is practiced by many at the present day. The mode 1s to dig
a trench in a hillside or ground with sufficient slope to insure
drainage. ‘This is partly filled in with straw, on which the
hives are placed; boards are slanted up in front; wooden
tubes placed in position to ventilate the pit, straw thrown on
the hives, over which boards are laid lengthwise, and dirt
piled over all to turn off the water.

MOSES QUINBY.

BEE CULTURE. 147

GENERAL ADVICE TO BEGINNERS.

Having already described a suitable location for an apiary,
and indicated who should engage in the business, when to
commence, what kind and how many colonies of bees to begin
with, we offer the following advice to beginners :

GENERAL INFORMATION NECESSARY.

Obtain, at least, a general knowledge of the natural
history of the honey bee, and of its management. Become
acquainted, both theoretically and practically, with the use of
improved apiarian implements. This can be obtained by
studying a good manual for the apiary and bee periodicals,
in connection with experience in the apiary. Spend some
time with a practical and progressive apiarist, even if you
have to pay for the privilege of “helping” him; for success-
ful and prudent care of bees at all seasons and under varied
circumstances, and the skill necessary to obtain the most
honey in the best condition for the market, can be obtained
only by practical experience in the apiary. From time im-
memorial bees have been kept by man, but until the past few
years the pursuit has not received that attention that it de-
mands. In this, as in all other departments of business, itis
only the careful and practical that succeed. Nature has pro-
vided the health-giving delicious nectar in myriads of beauti-
ful flowers, that deck forest, field and garden, and developed
the bees to gather this abundant sweetness and store it in
quantities far excecding their wants—and man may step in
to aid nature and bees, and utilize the surplus honey for
his pleasure and sustenance.

SELECTING A LOCATION. +

Locate where there is a profusion of white clover, with
timber to the west and north, within range, where basswood
or linden abounds; goldenrod, asters, Spanish needle and
heartsease, or smartweed, abound in almost every locality,

148 BEE CULTURE.

and where they do not, it is easy and profitable to put in a
few acres of buckwheat for late fall honey, as there is none
better for wintering bees, and extracted buckwheat honey
will always find a ready sale. In locating wm apiary, avoid
the close proximity of laurel thickets, as honey gathered
from the laurel is unwholesome, if not really poisonous ; avoid
the neighborhood of cider mills, and do net locate immediately
near a large body of water, as it will confine your bee-range
to one direction exclusively. A broken or low country is no
particular disparagement, because the less desirable for culti-
vation, the more encouragement will there be for you to take
time by the forelock, and plant plentifully of such honey
plants as will insure a constant bloom, and provide against
the time when others, encouraged by your success, shall also
commence bee-keeping in your neighborhood and over-stock
the location, unless nature is liberally assisted. With all the
above natural advantages secured, aided by your provident
forethought in planting, you will have done much to settle
the question as to the best method of wintering, and your
bees, let them be of whatever color, will solve the problem as
to which is the best race. We are often almost persuaded,
that were more attention devoted to selecting a suitable loca-
tion, and to providing continuous pasturage, there would be
less cause for so much talk about procuring the best races of
bees ; the bees reared ’ne=th Italia’s skies, would scarcely re-
pay the expense of importing ; no longer would we tread the
shining sands of Syria in search of a better type; we could
afford to respect the superstitions and avoid the scorching
sun of Cyprus, for their bees would gather no more honey
than our own; the bees of China would be left undisturbed
in the shade of its historic wall ; and those in Caucasus would
still fly from flower to flower in their own native valleys,
What though we possess a type of bees with the wings of
a condor, with tongues as long as was that of Xantippe, and
honey sacs with a carrying capacity equal to that of Falstaff,
of what avail are they if there is no honey to gather ?

PLAN FOR AN APIARY,

Decide upon a plan for an apiary, and then make it
beautiful. Of all mankind, bee-keepers should admire the
beautiful—and we really think they do, Italian, Cyprian,

BEE CULTURE. 149

Syrian and Albino bees are beautiful to look upon, and sip
nectar from the loveliest flowers, hiding it in dainty cells of
watchless beauty and virgin whiteness. What is there, in
all Creation, so soul-inspiring as a cultivated garden of
Nature’s flowers, of variegated hues and heavenly grandeur?
None but the unfortunate or despondent can fail to enjoy
Nature in her garb of beauty, decked by the bounteous hand
of Deity. To produce a garden of living gorgeousness we
may all aspire, and long enjoy its gratifying results.
ADOPT A STANDARD FRAME.

Adopt one of the standard hives, and then scrupu-
lously adhere to its use—for all the hives in one apiary
should be alike, and the frames and all other parts inter-
changeable, in order to give the best results. Number con-
spicuously every hive—either with a stencil plate, or by
painting large white figures on them,

KEEP AN APIARY REGISTER.

Obtain an Apiary Register from the office of the

AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL, for at least one-hundred colonies ;
then you have room to add all swarms and keep the record
all in one book. The two opposite pages are to be numbered
to correspond with the number on the hive, This can be
referred to instantly, and should contain a full history of the
colony. By its careful and constant use your bees may be
improved, their most valuable qualities developed, and the
products of the apiary be greatly enlarged. Should a
queen lack any desirable quality you will in this way soon dis-
cover it, and can supersede her. In this Register let all the
important facts be noted, and by its complete history of each
colony you may systematize all your work, lay it out in
advance, save confusion, and inaugurate the best methods and
management.

INCREASE BY DIVISION.

This is perhaps one of the most interesting features in the
management of an apiary. All operations will be governed
somewhat by the number of colonies to be manipulated, and
the amount of increase desired; it should also be borne in
mind that, although the amount of increase possible is almost
unlimited, all excessive increase will be at the expense of the

150 BEE CULTURE.

surplus honey yield. In order to be better understood, we
will suppose the apiarist has four good colonies which he
wishes to increase to nineteen. As a progressive bee-keeper,
he will be actuated by a desire to possess the best ; therefore,
the colony which has heretofore proven the most satisfactory
in all things, will be selected as the one from which to rear
queens for new colonies. This colony, for convenience in
summarizing, we will designate No. 1. As soon as spring
opens, feed No. 1 daily about half a pint of thin sugar syrup
or honey, diluted with warm water. This had better be fed
at the entrance in the evening, to avoid robbing, and be given
slightly warmed. Keep this up till there is capped drone
brood in some of the combs, or, better still, till you have
drones emerging from the cells. Now move one of the other
colonies from its stand (which we will designate No 2); place
No. 2 on a new stand, put a new or empty hive on the stand
vacated ; lift the frame from No. 1 on which you find the
queen and place in the empty hive (No. 3); place a frame of -
foundation in No. 1 and close the hive. From No. 2, andeach
of the two hives not numbered lift two frames of brood well
advanced, shake off the old bees, and put the combs in No. 3,
with the queen lately placed there. These last frames put
in should be alternated as much as possible, so as to confuse
the working bees from No. 2, which will naturally return to
the old stand and enter No. 3. Fill up the latter hive with
frames of foundation, alternated with the brood combs, to its
full complement. If a ten-frame hive, this will give it seven
frames of brood, three frames of foundation, and your best
queen. Ifyou have bright, clean, empty combs, they will
answer about as well as foundation, though we prefer the
best foundation. Put in foundation or combs to supply the
places of those taken from the other hives, close them, and
your first division is completed, making six colonies. In ten
days, examine carefully the combs in No. 1, to see how many
good queen cells (fig. 68) you have capped over. Close the
hive carefully, and let it remain twenty-four to thirty-six
hours. As soon as you have determined the number of cells,
remove each of the four colonies, which have queens, to new
stands, and place empty hives where they stood. Take the
brood frame from each on which you will find the quecn, and
place in the empty hive where they were moved from, Add

BEE CULTURE, 151

three more brood frames to each, from the hive removed from
there, place two frames of foundation or empty combs in the
center of these, put a division-board on the outside of the
combs, and close the hives. The hives from which these
were taken will each be left with six brood frames ; to these
add two empty combs or sheets of foundation, put in division
boards at the outsides, and close for twenty-four or thirty-six
hours. You now have four new colonies with queens, four
without queens, and one with queen cells.

At the end of twenty-four hours you will find queen cells
started, or preparations to start them, in the four queenless

Fie. 108.—Breod Comb with Queen Cell Engrafted.

colonies. With a sharp, narrow-bladed knife, cut out four
of the best queen cells from No. 1, leaving a good one; cut a
triangular hole, about one-and-a-half inches across, from the
center of a brood frame in each of the queenless colonies, and
slip in a queen cell. These should fit pretty tightly, so they
will not drop out (fig. 108). Observe great care not to bruise
any of them, and they must not be cut so lose to the cell as
to run a chance of injuring the young queen yet in the cell.
In a few days these young queens will be hatched, mated and
laying, and you now have nine colonies. As fast as the
foundation in these colonies is drawn out, the comb can be
spread and new foundation or combs added, until the full

152 BEE CULTURE.

complement are in the hive, when a new colony may be
formed, in the same manner as at the start, and the original
queen from No. 1 can be put in this, leaving her colony
queenless to build queen cells. In ten days repeat the
operation of dividing as before, and in twenty-four hours in-
sert queen cells, foundation, and division bourds as before.
You will now have nineteen colonies from the four in early
spring, and by close attention in supplying good foundation
as fast as they are prepared to receive it, with a good white
clover and basswood yield, or a few acres of sweet clover
pasture, you may expect a fine surplus yield of extracted
honey.

If indifferent to the amount of honey, with an average fair
season, another division can be made with safety, and your
four colonies will have been increased to thirty-seven. If
more than four colonies in spring, divisions can be made
oftener by alternating the best queen between two colonies,
in order to keep a supply of ripe queen cells always on hand,
or, better still, keeping nuclei with laying queens, to supply
as fast as divisions are made,

SWARMING.

Several methods of artificial swarming can be practiced
with success, either of which we think preferable to natural
swarming, which is always to be avoided where possible, as
it oceurs just at the season when least desired. If the bees,
as is sometimes the case, are in box hives, the English
method of drumming up is among the most feasible, and is
executed as follows: Select some bright, clear day, when
the workers are busily engaged in the fields, remove the hive
ten to twenty feet from the stand, and put in its stead a
frame hive, with half or two-thirds its complement of frames
filled with bright, clean combs, or good foundation and
division boards at the sides; turn the old hive bottom up,
and invert an empty box over the open end; now blow in a
little smoke from the lower end of the hive, and commence
a series of sharp drumming or rapping on the sides of the
hive with a small hammer or stick ; do not drum hard enough
to loosen the combs or start them to dripping; after rapping
four or five minutes, cease for a minute, then resume again,
and keep 1t up for five minutes longer, or until the bees have

REE CULTURE, 153

deserted the hive and clustered in the box, which is a pretty
sure indication the queen is with them. Now cover a sheet
over the old hive, and empty the bees from the box on a sheet
in front of the new hive on the old stand ; watch them as they
crawl up, to discover the queen ; if she goes in, place the old
box on a new stand, and your work is accomplished.

If the bees to be operated with are in frame hives, remove
the oid hive to a distance, and place a new or empty one on
the old stand, when the bees are working busiest ; lift the
comb on which you find the queen from the old hive, destroy
queen cells on it, if any, and place in the center of the new
one, with the queen ; fill in frames each side, filled with clean
combs or foundation, proportionate to the strength of the
colony, and confine to the center of the hive with division
boards; put on the blanket and hive cover; now take the
frames one at a time from the old hive, and shake most of
the bees off in front of the new hive, destroy all the queen
cells in the old hive but the two best, or give them a laying
queen after destroying or removing all the cells; put in an
empty comb or frame of foundation in place of the one re-
moved to the new hive, spread the blanket over, or put on
second story with sections or extracting combs, and place the
hive on a new stand, well removed from the old one.

Another method which can be practiced with good results,
is to examine the colony threatening to swarm, remove all
queen cells started, then remove the hive to the stand occu-
pied by a very weak colony, and remove the weak colony to
the stand formerly occupied by the strong one.

In all cases where foundation or empty combs and division
boards are used in dividing or artificial swarming, care must
be used to spread the brood chamber and give additional
combs or foundation as fast as the bees are ready for it. It
is more profitable to melt up dirty combs, or those with dead
brood, and use instead good foundation. If there is a doubt
about the combs, give the foundation the preference.

PREPARING FEED FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES.

If for spring stimulation to breeding, use sugar, honey and
water, prepared in the following manner: Coffee A sugar,
one pound; good honey, one pound ; boiling water, one-and-
a-half pints—simmer on the stove five minutes, and feed at

154 BEE CULTURE,

the entrance in the evening, about half a pound per colony,
slightly warming it ; or, if no other bees in the neighborhood,
it can be given in shallow pans, and placed in the noon-day
sun, at some distance from the bees.

For feed during the inclement weather of May, when the
hives are full of young bees and brood, and no honey coming
in, one pound of coffee A sugar or one pound of honey, and
one pint of boiling water, simmer five minutes.

For feeding in fall for winter stores, three pounds of coffee
A sugar and one pint of boiling water, simmer five minutes.
Feed this inside the hive with a division board feeder, or in
a tin can with a coarse cloth tied over it, and inverted on
the frames. For fall feeding, estimate the amount required,
and give it as fast as the bees can store it in the combs.

For winter feeding, use four parts coffee A sugar and one
part water; simmer till it becomes quite hard on being
cooled, mould into frames of one inch thickness, and lay it
on top the frames, using sticks underneath one-half inch
square ; or mould it in brood frames, tie hemp twine around
to hold it in place, and put in center of the brood chamber.

GUARD AGAINST OVER-STOCKING.

The illustrious Rev. L. L. Langstroth adopted the maxim,
“ Keep all colonies strong,” as his watchword. We supplement
this by advising to provide a continual honey flow, when your
colonies will always be strong. As fast as you increase your
apiary, plant or scatter an additional pound of self-propa-
gating seeds for each new colony, which will provide good
honey-secreting bloom. With an expenditure of say thirty
cents per colony, as fast as increased, in well-selected seeds,
judiciously sown, you need borrow no trouble about feeding,
though you increase to five hundred colonies.

PROVIDE CONTINUAL HONEY BLOOM BY PLANTING.

Hsad ‘€ ‘MM “Ud

‘SMHYACNE £ WVITTIA

w LAN 2S.

as

WILLOW.

RAPE.

FIGWORT.

MINT.

ANCIENT If{STORY OF HONEY,

It: the books of antiquity, Honey is mentioned as one of

the most ancient articles of food—man’s first source of

“2 nourishment, Aye, and are we not informed that when
“the morning stars sang together” over the pristine beauty
of a new born world, that under the bright smile of Heaven,
Adam and his happy spouse were presented with.a glorious
home in an enchanting garden filled-with ‘‘ supernal fruits
and flowers” of Ifeaven’s own planting — nurtured and
watched by hosts of angelic attendants, who had made that
Eden-home a beautiful Paradise ? There ‘‘ the beasts of the
tield and fowls of the air”? dwelt togetherin perfect harmony,
under sun-lit skies ; and among the beautiful bowers of that
holy retreat, Eden’s feathered songstersrapturously joined in
“the swelling chorus.”

There, too, reveling in the precious nectar yielded from
the bloom of glory-clad trees, shrubs and flowers, was ‘the
little busy bee,’ with its joyous hum and rapid flight—gath-
ering the plenteous sweetness for the tiny but numerous

_family about to spring into existence, at its little home!
Ever did it flit from leaf to leaf and flower to flower, gather-
ing the honeyed treasures, that its ‘‘ stores’? may be abundant
for generations yet unborn —when winter’s sable-shades
should settle down upon the earth, visiting it with cold and
storm, and chilling the ‘little pets ” by its frozen breath and
fiercer blast !

No historian has transmitted to our day a description of
the rude hive provided for the bees that’ Noah carried into
the ark, nor are we informed whether Abraham’s bees were
kept in log-gums or box-hives, but it is recorded that the
land where Abraham dwelt—Canaan—was one “‘ flowing with
milk and honey ;” and when the old Patriarch, because of
the famine that prevailed there, sent his sons to Egypt to
buy corn, he sent as a present to the Egyptian ruler some of
Canaan’s famous honey.—Gen. 48: 11.

6 HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

We may well conclude that Canaan’s honey was then as
famous asin subsequent ages was the honey from Mount
Hymettus in Greece.—Lev. 21: 24; Num. 13: 27; Ex. 3: 8, 17.

n later years, Abraham’s offspring journeyed through the
deserts of Arabia, and in order to sustain them there, God
gave them manna from Heaven, to eat; they said that ‘‘the
taste of it was like wafers made with honey.”—Ex. 16: 31.

When the Amorites came out of the mountaiys of Sier
against the children of Israel, ‘‘ they chased them like angry
bees.”—Deut. 1: 44. .

In the Mosaic law we find many statutes regulating the
ownership of Bees. : Badan

When Jonathan was engaged in battle with the Philistines
‘und became tired and faint, he partook of honey, and was
sreatly refreshed.—1 Sam. 14: 27.

David and his army was provisioned in Gilead, and horney
was one of the luxuries enumerated.—2 Sam. 16:29. The
Jews placed honey before their guests as a sign of welcome,
‘siving them the greatest luxuries that the land produced.

Jeroboam sent his queen with presents to the Prophet
Ahijah, and included honey.—1 Kings 14: 3.

In the tythes of the Jewish Priesthood, honey is enumer-
ated.—2 Chron. 31: 5. :

Job signified the plenteousness of honey in the land, by
speaking of ‘t brooks of honey.’—Job 20: 17.

Solomon, relished Canaan’s delicious honey, and volun-
teered this advice: ‘‘My son eat thou honey; because it is
good.”—Prov. 24: 13.

Isaiah mentions ‘“‘ the bee that is in the land of Assyria,”
and declares that bees were so plenty that ‘‘ butter and honey
shall orely one eat that is left in the land.’’—Isa. 7: 18, 22.

The earliest mention of honey as an article of commerce
is, that the Jews were engaged in trading it at Tyre, that old
and honored mart of trade in Pheenicia.—Ezek. 27: 17.

Sirach, who lived about the time of the re-building of the
Temple at Jerusalem, speaking of the necessaries of life,
mentions honey, with flour and milk.

Solon, in the year 600, B. C., enacted a law, requiring that
bee hives in cultivated fields, must be 300 feet apart.

Homer, Herodotus, Aristotle, Cato, Varro, viet Pliny,
Columella, and other ancient sages, composed poems,
extolling the activity, skill and economy of bees. ;

The celebrated Cilician apiarist Aristomachus, of Solus,
with 58 years of experience in bee-keeping, wrote on the
subject of bees and honey, some 500 years, 3. C.—but that
work is lost to us. 5

The Persians, Grecians and Romans, used honey uite
extensively as an article of diet ; they also used it largely in
a food, and by it, mostof their beverages were

reetened. @

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE. 7

Pramnian wine, produced near Smyrna, in Asia Minor,
was, when mixed with honey, a favorite and celebrated bev-
erage. Virgil calls it ‘‘ the gift of heaven,” and Pythagoras
used and praised it. Democritus recommends it to all who
wish to live long. When mixed with honey, many wines are
more pleasant to the taste, and hence the Grecians and
Spaniards of our day, even, thus prepare their wines,—known
to the trade as ‘‘ ese Wine.”

Aristotle, inhis celebrated ‘‘ History of Animals,” written
about the middle of the fourth Century before the Christian
era, gave the first detinitive description of the Honey Bee.

Varroremarks : ‘* Nothing is sweeter than honey ; grateful
to gods and men, it is used on the altars.” a

“At the feast of the gods,” described by Ovid, which
required costly aliments and precious wines, “‘ the delicious
honey-cakes were never wanting.” These were composed of
meal, honey and oil, and in number were the same as the
years of the offerer. ;

It was also extensively used in domestic worship ; at the
special worship of Ceresin Nov. it was indispensable. . Ceres
was regarded as the ‘‘honey dispenser” and who by her
union with the rain-god, Zeus, caused fruitful seasons. Her
priestesses were called ‘‘ bees,”’ because honey was the first
food of the infant Dionysus, the son of Bacchus, whom
Ceres bore in her arms, as Isis carried Horus;and she was
the instructor of Aristeus in bee-culture. Bacchus too,
demanded a share, as the ‘discoverer of honey,” the
‘‘admirer of all sweetness,’? and the ‘‘decorator of the
blooming meadows.”

The Greeks and Romans used honey in embalming their
dead, and sprinkled it over the graves in the funeral service.

In India, honey is abundant, and Alexander’s triumphant
warriors laid a tribute of ‘‘honey and wax” upon the
Rong ured people; as did also the Romans, years afterwards,
on the Corsicans. The latter paid Rome 200,000 lbs. of wax,
yearly,assuch tribute. Atthe triumphal celebration, Pontus
distributed honey to the victorious army.

The Roman Emperor Charles IV. was favorable to bee-
culture, and owned a forest, as did also the Holy Roman
See ; both of which were called bee-gardens.

The Bee Masters’ Association (or guild) paid him an
annual tribute of 4,000 gold florins, and in the year A. D.
1350, he granted them a diploma which regulated their order.
These guilds transmitted bee-knowledge from father to son,
—as then the art of printing was unknown.

On the Statute books of ancient nations, laws. are found
_ for the protection of bees. The thieft of a swarm of bees,

according to old Saxon law, was punishable with death.

In Germany, history informs us, that a honey tribute was
often levied, long before the reign of Henry IV.

8 HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

The Zerotin family in Moravia and Silesia, did much to
encourage bee-culture. They hada guild, certain privileges,
bee-taxes, and their own police.

Prof. Jantscha, from Carniola, was called to Vienna, as
Professor of bee-culture, during the reign of Maria Theresa.
His successor was Manzbery. nder this reign all improve-
ments flourished. On April 8, 1775, bee-culture, by patent,
was elevated by the removal of all hinderances to the sale
of honey and wax.

Passing down to more modern times, we should mention
as writers, Swammerdam, a German naturalist; Maraldi,
an Italian mathematician; Schirach, a Saxon priest;
Réaumur, inventor of a themometer; Bonnet, a Swiss
entomologist; Dr. John Hunter; and Francis Huber, who
though totally blind, is noted for his many minute observa-
tions, by the aid of lis assistant, Burnens, which caused
quite a revolution in ancient theories concerning the honey
bee. He was also assisted by Mdle. Jurine, who, by delicate
microscopic examinations, rendered important service not
only to Huber, but also to future generations.

In 1806, Christian Pehlemann, an invalid, resident in the
village of Odenburg in the Prussian province of Brandenburg
Joaned the then hard-pressed King of Prussia, four hundred
rix-dollars, the surplus profits of an apiary of thirty hives of
bees, by whose 1abors and products he supported himself. In
1812, the King repaid the loan with interest, and presented
to the patriotic lender a gold medal having a hive anda
cluster of -bees embossed thereon.

Dr. Bevan’s work on ‘‘ The Honey Bee” was a standard
volume until oie with the same title was published in this
country by the Rev. L. L. Langstroth.

But space forbids us to enumerate all the apiarists of the

resent age—prominent among whom we may mention
Fann Von Berlepsch, Leuckart, Von Siebold, Sir John
Lubbock, the Rev. L. L. Langstroth, Samuel Wagner, M.
Quinby, Adam Grimm, J. 8. Harbison, Capt. J. E. ethcr-
ington, Professor A. J. Cook, and a mighty host_of others,
who, through faith in scientific research and devotion to
experiments and manipulations, have wrought wonders with
their bees. ‘‘Pulling down the strong-holds” of old-fogy
opposition, they ‘‘waxed valiant in fight ” against all forms
of ignorant and fossilized theories, consigning them to a
burial with the fallacies of past ages—and as if by magic
wand, they have bidden modern ideas and scientific manage-
ment of the Apiary to ‘arise and shine,” sending its benign
influences to the very ends of the earth !

‘NOZUMIZd “Ud “ATU

‘AWTYD WHC

r TANS

NY

Apiary of Walter Harmer, Manistee, Mich.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

HONEY AS A MEDICINE.

WHE Herald of Health, is high medical sanction. In its
~ issue for Nov. 1872, in answer to a question, ‘Is
=—2 Honey Wholesome?” it says‘ Yes ; used in moderation,
itis.’ Itthen adds: ‘A German teacher has lately written
a work on the subject of honey and its healing properties.
While he may over-estimate its value, what he says is inter-
esting. Wequote: ‘A strong influence for publishing this
book was the fact that I, a sufferer from hemorrhages, already
given up to despair, and at the verge of the grave, was saved
by the wonderful curative powers of honey ; and now, thank
God, I am freed, not only from weakness of my lungs, but
rejoice in the possession of perfect health.

‘ At my first attack, upwards of thirty years ago, powders
and tea were ordered for me, which benetited me but little.
I then placed but little confidence in honey, which I had used
occasionally, and in small quantities. Judging from my pres-
ent knowledge, I believe that the honey was the only remedy
that was doing me any good, and it is this that I have to
thank for the gradual but sure restoration of my health.

“As my disease increased I began to use cod liver oil,
which weakened and injured my stomach so that I could
hardly digest anything more, and my condition became
worse and worse. Again J returned to honey, when my suf-
tering immediately began to decrease and disappear.
Besides the use of honey, I took pains to preserve my breast
and lungs from injury, which, in my trying situation as pub-
lic teacher, was almost impossible. My disease being caused
by my constant teaching during so many years, I gave up
my profession, and honey was my only medicine, whereby I,
by the simplest, safest, quickest and pleasantest manner (for
I was fond of honey), relieved the disease in my throat; and
out of thankfulness [ now write this book for the use and
benefit of many, especially for the use of those suffering
from diseases of the throat and lungs.’ ”

This German teacher is none other than Karl Gatter, with
whom we had a pleasant visit in 1879, in the city of Vienna,

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

Austria. He was then in excellent health and buoyant
spirits,and was enthusiastic in the praise of honey for curing
his maladies, reviving his spirits,and giving him a new lease
of life by which to enjoy the renewed vigor obtained by the
plentiful use of honey. From this gentleman we quote still
further, on the same subject. He says:

““In medicine, and especially in the healing of wounds,
was honey, already in early times, used as a universal
remedy, it yet constitutes the principal ingredient of several
medical preparations, is used with the best results in many
internal and external diseases; serves as a means for taking
powders, for the preparation of salves and the sweetening of
medicine.

‘* Honey mollifies; promotes festering ; causes gentle purg-
ing, divides and dissolves, warms, nourishes, stops pains,
strengthens the tone of the stomach, carries away all super-
fluous moisture, aids digestion, thins and purifies the blood,
and animates and strengthens the breast, nerves and lungs.
Iloney is therefore to be used when suffering with a cough,
hoarseness, stoppage of the lungs, shortness of breath, and
especiully with the best results, in all affections of the chest.

‘* Many persons afflicted with various species of consump-
tion, thank the use of good honey, either for their entire
restoration to health, ov for the mitigation of their often
painful condition of body and mind. :

‘‘ Honey is also an excellent remedy for the occasional
inactivity of the abdominal organs, and a means of
strengthening weak nerves. For severe coughing, barley-
water mixed with honey and the juice cf lemons, drank warm,
is pleasant relief. It appeases and mitigates fevers, and
owing to its taste and its soothing qualities, it is used asa
gargle.

‘* Honey can also be used with advantage in asthma, in
constipation, in sore throat; promotes perspiration, lessens
phlegm, and is very healing to the chest, sore from coughing.

‘* With old persons, the use of honey is very useful, since
it produces warmth and a certain activity of the skin. For
persons leading a sedentary life, and suffering from costive-
ness, and especially from piles, pure unadulterated honey,
either mixed in their drink, used alone, or on bread, is the
best and healthiest means of relief.

“* Honey has also great value as a medicine for children,
and is readily partaken of by them as a choice dainty dish.
It is especially useful to children afHicted with scrofwla or
rickets. In difficult teething, rub the gums with a mixture
of honey and an emulsion of quinces. For the removing of
worms, honey has often been beneficially used, and it is often
used in diseases of the mouth and throat.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

“ Honey mixed with flour and spread on linen or Jeather is
a simple remedy for bringing to head, or to maturity, boils,
&e. Also, honey mixed with flour or fried onions, serves an
excellent purpose as a covering for any hard swelling or
callosity or abscess; and for ulcers it is often mixed with
turpentine, tar, and tincture of myrrh. A plaster made of
unslacked lime and honey has sometimes relieved most
obstinate sciatica. ‘

“If good honey is applied to inflamed wounds or boils, it
lessens the drawing, quiets the pain and produces a good
festering or suppuration. Undoubtedly, for all wounds,
pustulous inflammations, bruises and bad _ festerings,
honey is the best and most reliable remedy, and affords
eis and safer help than all other known plasters; all
that is needed is to spread it rather thick on a piece of linen,
place it upon the fresh wound, bind it fast, and renew the
plaster every four or five hours. Of course, if bones are
broken, surgical aid must be had.

‘** Honey-dough—arto mele—a plaster made out of honey
and rye flour or rye bread, into whlch henbane or other
narcotic substances is mixed, is an excellent means of
irritation ; which should be used in festering and bringing the
sore to a head, and assuage the drawing and pain. Itshould
be warmed, spread on a piece of linen and placed upon the
sore part.

‘** For persons who are weakened through fast living, honey
is, of all helps, the best nourishment, since it not only
removes the poisons in the systein, but also through its
virtues strengthens the system ; hence it has made itself so
necessary to the inhabitants of the Orient.”

Ifoney is beneficial in pectoral diseases, acts as an excel-
lent detergent, and as a gentle laxative. In ancient times
the free and regular use of it as an article of diet, was
regarded as a means of securing long life; and it thus
came to be popularly considered as a specific against disease.

Honey is a sedative of no ordinary power. A friend, who

is a practicing physician, mentions one of his patients, whose
habits of observation were seldom equaled, having by the
kick of a horse one of his knee-joints badly broken, the pain
and anguish being very severe, his daughter offered him
some wine or tea. He declined, but said she might give him
some honey. Dr. A. remarks: “My own observations justi-

fies the wisdom of his selection. Try it.”

An admirable preparation for Coughs, especially during
feverish or inflammatory attacks, is composed of honey, olive

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE,

oil, lemon juice and sweet spirits of nitre—each, one fluid
ounce—to be taken several times a day, in half fluid-drachm
doses.

Honey is nutritive and laxative, and is employed largely in
the preparation of medicine. In diseases of the bladder and
kidneys, honey is an excellent remedy.

RECIPES.

For AstHmMA—Honey is an excellent remedy. Mix 1 oz.
of castor oil with 4 ozs. of honey. Take one tablespoonful,
night and morning. A simple and beneficial remedy,

HONEY OF SQUILLS.—Claritied honey 8 lbs.; tincture of
squills 2 lbs.; mix well.

Honey Coueu Syrup.—This is an excellent remedy for a
common cough. One dose will often give relief. Stew half
pint of sliced onions and 1 gill of sweet oil in a covered dish.
Then strain and add 1 gill of good honey; stir it well and
cork it up ina bottle. Take a teaspoonful at night before
going to bed, or any time when the cough is troublesome.

Eyre WasH—for Sore or Inflamed Eyes.—One part of honey
to five parts of water. Mix,and bathe the lids, putting a few
drops into the eye, two or three times a day, until well.

BALSAM OF HonEy.—Take fine pale honey four ounces,
glycerine one ounce; mix by a gentle heat. and when cold
add alcohol one ounce ; essence of ambergris six drops, citric
acid three drachms. This is intended to remove discolora-
tions and freckles, as well as to improve the general appear-
ance of the skin.

For Croup.—Honey is an excellent remedy, giving sure
and prompt relief.

For Proncuitis.—Take comb honey and squeeze the
honey out, and dilute it with water. Wet the lips and
mouth with it occasionally. This has proved an excellent
‘remedy, even where children’s throats were so much swollen
as to prevent swallowing of food.

Honey SAtve.—Take two tablespoonsful of honey,
the yelk of one egg, and flour to make it to a paste. This
salve is excellent for running sores, of long standing, boils,
or sores with proud flesh.

For Couveus, Cops, WHOoPING Coven, &c.—Fill a bell-
metal kettle with hoarhound leaves and soft water, letting
it boil until the liquor becomes strong—then strain through
a muslin cloth, adding as much honey as desired—then cook
it in the same kettle until the water evaporates, when the
candy may be poured into shallow vessels and remain until
needed, or pulled like molasses candy until white.

HONEY, AS »00D AND MEDICINE.

Honery-WaAsH FoR THE Eves.—Honey is an excellent
remedy for inflammation of the eyes. Put a few drops of
pure liquid honey into a teaspoonful of lukewarm water, and
stir with the finger until thoroughly dissolved ; then lie down
and drop three or four drops into the eye, lying still a few
minutes; then wipe the face and eyelids, but not wash out
the eye. Repeat. this 4 or 5 times a day, and the last Hing
before going to bed. Follow these directions faithfully an
in a few days the inflammation will be entirely gone.

GARGLE FOR Sore THrROAT.—Very pe sage tea, one-
half pint; extracted honey, common salt and strong vinegar,
each two tablespoonsful; cayenne pepper, one teaspoontul.
Steep the pepper with the sage, strain, mix and bottle for
use. Gargle from four to eight times daily, according to the
severity of the case.

CANCER PLASTER.—White oak bark, four ounces; bruise
it well and add urine sufficient to cover it. Infuse four
days, and boil it until it becomes thick as molasses. Add
two ounces of honey and two ounces of strained turpentine
gum. To make this plaster caustic, add two ounces of
white vitriol. Spread on soft leather, or linen. It may be
applied to all kinds of ulcers, or white swellings. For can-
cers it is invaluable. oe

Honey Coued MEDICcINE.—The following is a recipe of
a valuable remedy for obstinate coughs. It is especially
valuable for long-standing coughs in elderly people, anc
useful in all cases unattended with a hot skin and very
frequent pulse: Extracted honey, linseed oil and whisky, of
eee 1 pint; mix. Dose—one tablespounful 3 or 4 times €

ay. .

llonry AND TAR CouaH CANDy.—Boil a double-hand-
fulof green hoarhound, in2 quarts of water, down to 1 quart.
Strain, and add to this tea 1 cup of honey, 1 cup of sugar,
and _a tablespoonful each of lard and tar. Boil down to a
candy, but not enough to make it brittle. Begin to eat this,
increase from a piece the size of a pea, toas much as can be
relished or needed. It is an excellent cough candy, and
always gives relief in a short time.

IIONEY FOR SORE EyxEs.—Mr. S. C. Perry, Portland, Mich.,
says: ‘A neighbor of mine had inflammation in his eyes.
Ife tried many things and many physicians; was nothing
better, but rather grew worse, until he was almost entirely
blind. His family was sick, and I presented him with a pail
of honev. What they did not eat he put in his eyes, a drop
or two in each eye 2o0r3 timesaday. In3 months’ time he
was able to read coarse print, and now after 4 months’ use, his
eyes are almost as good as ever. I have also found noney
good for common cold-sore eyes

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

HonEY AND Watnur CoueH Canpy.—This is made
entirely of honey, but thickened with walnut kernels. The
dose is a piece about the size of a pecan. It should not be
boiled enough to make it brittle.

REMEDY FOR WHOOPING CouUGH, COLDS, ETC.—The
following is unsurpassed: Mix of good whisky, 1 pint, pure
extracted honey, 1 pint, and 2 table-spoonfuls of pine tar.
Dose for children, from 15 to 20 drops and increase. For
adults, tea-spoonful—given when the cough is troublesome, 3
to 10 times a day.

CONSTIPATION.—Honey, especially the solid parts of the
granulated, eaten on bread instead of butter, will have the
desired effect. That part of honey which does not granulate,
possesses this property in amuch lessdegree. A sauce made
of prunes, boiled and sweetened with honey, is an excellent
remedy. Jn dangerous cases apply an injective of milk and
peneys having the temperature of the blood, about 97° or 98°

ahr.

CoNnsUMPTION.—Physical exercise, especially horse-back
riding before breakfast ; the body to be rubbed thoroughly
with a woolen cloth, night and morning; bedroom, an upper
story, with a window partly open day and night; retiring and
rising early; main diet to consist of farinaceous food and
vegetables: for drinking, nothing but milk and honey, mixed
half and half, either warm or cold.

Croup AND HoARSENESS.—A gargle made of sage tea,
sweetened with honey, or ‘pills made of mustard, tlour and
honey.

WHOOPING CouGH.—A_ decoction of wheat bran mixed
with milk and honey, drank frequently, gives relief.

‘Worms.—Before breakfast take a table-spoonful of honey,
or :. ten nade of peppermint sweetened with 1g to ¥4 its bulk
of honey.

To REMOVE FisH-BoNEs and similar hard objects which
have become lodged in the throat. Make a large pill of wax
(as large as can possibly be swallowed), dip in honey and let
the patient swallow it.

To Curr A BuRN oR ScALD.—Cover the same instantly
with honey, keeping it so until the pain ceases.

SUPPRESSED PERSPIRATION.—(Taking cold.)—Barley soup
sweetened with honey, drank before retiring ; or oat-meal
soup With honey, drank warm.

AstHMA.—Grated horse-radish mixed with honey; one
table-spoonful taken before going to bed.

Rosr-Honey (rhodomeli), made of the expressed juice of
roses and honey extracted from the comb, and is held in high
favor for the sick.

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HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

HONEY AS AN ARTICLE OF FOOD.

LINY speaks of Rumilius Pollio, who possessed mar-
oy 4. velous health and strength, at over 100 years of age.—
Ps SS Upon being presented to the Emperor Augustus, who
inquired the secret of his liveliness of spirits and strength of
bo y at so great an age—he answered : ‘*Interus melle ; exrterus
vleo’°—Internally through honey ; externally through oil.

Among all the myriads of insects, there certainly is none,
the product of whose industry is more pleasant and tempting
to the palate—more nutritious and health-giving to the body,
or more valuable as an article of commerce, than the
product by the Bee—delicious and immaculately-pure honey.

How astonishingly appropriate is even its name—Honey !
Derived from the Hebrew word ghoneg, literally it means
DELIGHT. Humanity may, therefore, delight itself with
Honey, as long as the sun endureth !

Its early history shows that it was for ages man’s principal
source of nourishment—and wherever civilization extended
its sway, the “‘ little busy bee ” was carried as its companion
and co-worker in the cause of elevation and refinement.

Why, then, did honey lose its honored place as an article of
food? The introduction of sugar gave it the first blow; its
use became general in the seventeenth century—and as its
use increased, the use of honey decreased, until at length
the bee-masters’ guild was abolished, and the skill and
Oa pe uenSe of the old bee-masters were lost.

The introduction of the vile compounds, known as ‘‘ Table
Syrups,” with their impurities and adulterations, has had the
effect of opening the eyes of consumers, and of re-openin
for honey its God-given place as an article of food. Instea
of dealing disease and death promiscuously to those who
indulge in its use, as do these syrups, honey gives mankind,
in the most agreeable manner, both food and medicine.

It is a common expression that honey is a luxury, having
nothing to do with the life-giving principle. This is an error
—honey is foodin oneof itsmost concentrated forms. True,
it does not add so much to the growth of muscle as does beef-
steak, but it does impart other properties, no less nécessa
to health and vigorous physical and intellectual action! It
gives warmth to the system, arouses nervous energy, and
gives vigor to all the vital functions. To the laborer, it gives

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

strength—to the business man, mental force. Its effects are
not like ordinary stimulants, such as spirits, &c., but it pro-
duces a healthy action, the results of which are pleasing and
permanent—a sweet disposition and a bright intellect.

The use of honey instead of sugar for almost every kind of
cooking, is as pleasant for the palate as it is healthy for the
stomach. In preparing blackberry, raspberry or strawberry
short cake, it is infinitely superior.

Pure honey should always be freely used in every family—
Honey eaten upon wheat bread is very beneticial to health.

Children would rather eat bread and honey than bread and
butter; one pound of honey will reach as far as two pounds
of butter, and has, besides, the advantage that it ic far more
healthy and acorn bic and always remains good, while
butter soon becomes rancid and often produccs cramp in the
stomach, eructations, sourness, vomiting and diarrhea.

Well-purified honey has the quality of preserving, for a
long time in a fresh state, anything that may be laid in it or
mixed withit, and to prevent its corrupting in a far superior
manner to sugar; thus many species of fruit may be pre-
served by being laid in honey, and by this means will obtain
a pleasant taste and give to the stomach a healthy tone. One
who has once tried it, will not use sugar for preserving fruit.

In fact honey may replace sugar as an ingredient in the
cooking of almost any article of food—and at the same time
«greatly add to its relish.

Digestion (all-potent in its effects on the mind as well as
the body) depends largely on the food. Poor food received
into a poor stomach is the cause of many unhappy homes—
while good, healthy food, received into a healthy stomach
becomes ‘‘an Angel of Peace” to many a household.

The following are a few of the many desirable things that
may be made, with honey as an ingredient.

RECIPES.

Honey LEMON CAkE.—One cup butter, two cups honey,
four eggs well beaten, teaspoonful essence of lemon, half
cup sour milk, teaspoonful soda, four enough to make it as
stiff as can well be stirred, bake at once in a quick oven.

MutTu’s HonEY CAKES.—One gallon of honey (dark honey
is best), fifteen eggs, three pounds of sugar (a little more
honey in its place may be better), one and a half ounces of
baking soda, two ounces of hartshorn, two pounds of
almonds (chopped up), two pounds of citron, four ounces of
cinnamon, two ounces of cloves, two ounces of mace,
eighteen pounds of flour. Let the honey come to almost a
boil; then let it cool off again, and add the ingredients.
Cut out and bake. The cakes are iced afterwards wath sugar
and the white of eggs.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE,

Hamspura Honey CAxe.—The flour intended for this
cake should be well dried and sifted before being weighed ;
then take twelve pounds of flour and twelve pounds of honey ;
bring the honey to a boiling heat, pour it in the flour, an
mix thoroughly. Dissolve two and a half ounces of pearlash
in two gills ot rose-water, the evening before; take one
pound of butter or lard, two table-spoonful of West India
rum, the grated rind of two lemons, the candied or sugar-
coated rind of two oranges, and a very small quantity of
pounded cloves. The solution of pearlash is to be added
when the dough has become cool, and the mass must be
thoroughly kneaded. The dough may be prepared several
days in advance of the baning.

ONEY Brown CAKE.—'To four pounds of flour take four
pounds of honey, one-half pound of pulverized loaf or lump
sugar, one-half ounce of Canella, three ounces of lard, a
sniall quantity of cloves, one ounce of pearlash, one gill of
ro3e-water, and two spoonsful of rum or French brandy.
The honey and lard are to be incorporated by boiling, and
when again cooled off, add the pearlash previously dissolved
in the rose-water. JXnead the mass well, let it stand several
days, and then work it over again very thoroughly. Some
persons prefer to omit the cloves, and substitute for them
pounded cardamon seeds, grated lemon pecl, or sugar-coated
orange pocl.

HonrY APPLE CAKES.—Soak three cups of dried apples
over night; chop slightly, and simmer in two coffee cups of
honey for two hours, then add one-and-a-half coffee cups of
honey, one-half coffee cup of sugar, one coffee cup of melted
butter, three eggs, two teaspoonsful saleratus ; cloves, cinna-
mon, powdered lemon or orange peel, and ginger syrup, if
you haveit. Mix all together, add the apples and then flour
enough for a stiff batter. Bake in a slowoven. This will
make two good sized cakes.

Honey Frvit CAKkE.—Four eggs, 5 cups of flour, 2 cups
of honey, 1 teacupful butter, 1 cup sweet milk, 2 teaspoonsful
cream of tartar, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 1b. raisins, 1 1b. cur-
rants, 3 1b. citron, 1 teaspoonful each cloves, cinnamon and
nutmtg; bake ina large loaf in a slowoven. This will be
nice months after baking as well as when fresh.

Honey SPONGE CAKE.—One large coffee cup full of honey,
one cup of flour, five eggs. Beat elke and honey together,
beat the whites to a froth ; mix all together, stirring as little
as possible ; flavor with lemon juice or extract.

RAILROAD HoNEY CAKE.—One cup of honey, one heaping
cup flour, one teaspoonful cream tartar, half teaspoonful soda,
three eggs and a little lemon juice; stir all together ten min.
utes. Bake twenty minutes in a quick oven.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

Honey TEA Cakes.—Three pounds and a half of flour;
one pound and a half of honey; half a pound of sugar ; half
a pound of butter; half a nutmeg grated; one tablespoonful
of ground ginger; one teaspoonful of saleratus, or carbonate
of soda. Mix the sugar with the flour and grated ginger, and
work the whole into a smooth dough with the butter beaten
to a cream, the honey and saleratus, or soda, dissolved in a
little hot water. Roll it a quarter of an inch thick, cut it
into small cakes, and bake them twenty-five minutes in a
moderate oven.

Tlonry Cooxres.—Mix a quart of extracted honey with
half a pound of powdered white sugar, half a pound of
fresh butter and the juice of two oranges or lemons. Warm
these ingredients slightly, just enough to soften the butter,
and then stir the mixture very hard, adding a grated nut-
meg. Mix in gradually two pounds or less of sifted flour
make it into a dough just stiff enough to roll out easy, an
beat it well all over with a rolling pm; then roll it out into a
large sheet half an inch thicl-, cut it into round cakes with
the top of a tumbler dipped frequently in flour, lay them in
shallow tin pans slightly buttered, and bake them.

Honey Caxes.—Three cups of honey, four cups sour milk,
half cup butter, soda to sweeten the milk; mix rather stiff.

HioNEY GINGER SNAPS.—One pint honey, 4 lb. of butter,
2 teaspoonfuls of ginger, boil together a few minutes, and
when nearly cold put in flour until it is stiff, roll out thinly
and bake quickly.

Honry Puppine.—Three pints thinly sliced apples, one
pe honey, one pint flour, one pint corn-meal, small piece

utter, one teaspoonful soda, the juice of two lemons and
their grated rinds; stir the dry soda into the honey, then add
the apples, melted butter and a little salt; now add the
lemon rind and juice and at once stir inthe flour. Bake one
hour. Serve hot or cold with sauce.

| GRAPES PRESERVED Wiru Honry.—Take 7 lbs. of sound
grapes on the stem, the branches as perfect as possible, pack
them snugly without breaking, in a stone jar. Make a
syrup of 4 Ibs. of honey, 1 pint good vinegar, with cloves and
cinnamon. to suit, (about three ounces of each) boil well
together for twenty minutes, skim well, then turn boiling
hot over the grapes and seal immediately. They will keep
for years, if you wish, and_are exceedingly nice. Apples,
peaches and plums may be done in this way.

PRESERVING Fruits.—Put honey and fruit in a vessel,
then put the vesselin a kettle of water and boil, the same as
with sugar.

Honey Liquorice.—Honey and a strong infusion of liquo-
rice boiled to a proper consistency.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE. 19

HonrEY PRESERVES.—.\ll kinds of fruit made into jam,
with honey instead of sugar are nice. ‘ Butler” made with
extracted honey is much nicer than when made with sugar.
For grapes, pick from the stem and pack into a jar until it is
full, then turn cold honey over them until they are covered
well. Seal up without any heat, and keep ina cool place.
After a few months they will be found to be delicious.

HONEY-FOAM (sputum), prepared by beating, with the
addition of asmall quantity of white of eggs. It is used to
brush over cakes and confectionery before baking.

Honey VixeGar.—Take thirty gallons of rain-water;
heat it, and put it into a barrel; add two quarts of whisky,
three pounds of honey, five cents worth of citric acid, anda
little mother of vinegar. Fasten up the barrel, and put it in
the cellar, and in a short time it will contain vinegar unsur-
passed for purity and excellence of taste.

ROSE-HONEY (rhodomeli), made of the expressed juice of
roses and honey, and is held in high favor for the sick.

Honey is much used by bakers and confectioners in the
course of their business, and by the manufacturers of mead,
honey-wine, honey-beer, &c. It is substituted for sugar by
pastry cooks, and manufacturers of candy.

HONEY-WINE ( cnomeli), is made of the juice of the kest
grapes, well ripened, and kept twenty days before pressing,
to which five parts of the finest honey should be added, and
all well stirred in a wooden vessel; it is then covered with
a linen cloth, and allowed to ferment for forty days. the seum
being occasionally removed. It is then put in a tight cask
and so kept till the ensuing spring, when it is bottled.

HonrEy Noyat.—Four ounces of bitter almonds; two
ounces of sweet almonds; two pounds of loaf sugar; three
lemons; two quarts of gin; two large spoonfuls of clarified
honey ; one pint of milk. Blanch and pound the almonds,
and mix them with the sugar, which should be rolled. Boil
the milk, and when cold, mix all the ingredients together,
and let them stand ten days, shaking themevery day. Filter
the mixture through blotting paper, bottle off for use, and
seal the corks down.

HoNEY CURRANT WINE.—To 38 quarts of juice, add 3 lbs.
of honey, and water to make a gallon, let it ferment four or
five weeks, with open bung and keep the barrel always full,
in a warm place,then drain and put into another barrel, in the
cellar. It makes a delicious drink.

METHEGLIN.— Mix honey and water strong enough to carry
an egg; let it stand three or four weeks in a warm place to

ferment; then drain through a cloth and add some spices to
suit the taste.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

Honey can be used in cooking anything, just as sugar is
used, merely using less milk or water than called for when
sugar is used, on account of honey being a liquid.

_ MILK AND Honry.—Take a bowl of milk, and break some
light, wheat bread and also some white comb honey into it.
This : delicious—the proverbial ‘‘ milk and honey” of the
ancients.

Honey Caxe.—One quart of extracted honey, one-half
pint sugar, one-half pint melted butter, one teaspoonful
soda, dissolved in one-half teacup of warm water, one-half
of a nutmeg and one teaspoonful of ginger. Mix these
ingredients and then work in flour and roll. Cut in thin
cakes and bake on buttered tins in a quick oven.

GERMAN Honey Cake.—Thrce and one-half pounds of
flour, one and one-half pounds of honey, one-half pound of
sugar, one-half pound of butter, half of grated nutmeg, one-
sixth of an ounce of ginger, one-quarter of an ounce of soda;
roll thin, cut in small cakes and bake in a hot oven.

CHEAP Honey Tra CAkr.—One teacup of extracted
honey, one-half teacup of thick, sour cream, two eggs, one-
half teacup butter, two cups flour, scant half teaspoon of
soda, one teaspoon of cream of tartar; flavor to taste.

Honey GINGER CAKE.—Three cups of flour, one and one-
half cupsof butter ; rub well together, then add one cup brown
_ sugar, two large table spoonfuls of ginger, and, if you like,
the same amount of caraway seeds; five eggs, two cups of
extracted honey and three teaspoonful of baking powder.—
Beat it well, and bake in a square, iron pan one hour or
more,

Hiongy CaxEs.—Four cups extracted honey, one cup
butter, two teaspoonful of baking powder, and flour added
by degrees, to make a stiff paste; work well together, roll
out half an inch thick, cut into cakes and bake in a quick
oven. See that they do not burn.

WINE MEAD.—'l'o make mead, not inferior to the best
foreign wines, put three ths. of the finest honey to two gallons
of water, two lemon peels to each gallon ; boil it one-half hour,
and skim well. Putin the lemon peel while boiling. Work
this mixture with yeast, and ee it in a vessel to stand
five or six months; then bottle for use. If you choose to
keep it several years, add four pounds of honey to a gallon
of water.

Honey Paste.—One cup honey, three-fourths cup white
or yellow wax, one cup lard; melt together, then take it off
the fire and stir till cool; perfume with rose or violet, and
keep in cups, well protected from the air. For keeping the
hands from chapping. rub on a little, after dipping them
lightly in water. It softens them after hard work.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE

Butrer HONEY CAxe.—All pronounce this cake excel-
fent: One pintof flour, 1 tablespoonfulof butter, 1 teaspoon-
ful of soda, 2 teaspconfuls of cream tartar, and honey
sufficient to make a thick batter; spread aboutan inch thick,
and bake in a hot oven.

GINGER IlONEY CAKEs.—A German gives the following
receipt for inaking a superior quality of fine honey cakes:
Let « pound of honey boil up ina brass kettle, then add to it
one pound of sifted sugar, 4 lb. of coarsely ground almonds,
2 whole eggs, the yellow peel of a lemon, grated, a little
eandied orange peel and citronate ground fine; then grad-
ually add cardamins, cloves, cinnamon, and about % Ib. of
tine flour, and stirring diligently. After having mixed the
whole well, add 14 ounce of potash, dissolved in a little water
and a glass of rum; then convey the whole mass upon it
vermicelli board, covered with flour, knead with it as much
tlour as will be necessary to form a dough, roll this dough
out to the thickness of a lead pencil, cut it into sizes to suit
you, and bake it upon a baking-tin at a moderate heat, until
light brown. By covering the pieces while hot. with a boiled
solution of sugar, using a brush in doing it, the cakes will
gain a pretty color and greater sweetness.

HoNEY SPONGE CAKE.—Two-thirds of a breakfast cup of
sour cream, 3 cupsful of flour, an even teaspoonful of soda,
1 cup of butter, 3 eggs, 14 Ibs. of honey, 1 tablespoonful of
cinnamon, 4 tablespoonful of allspice, and a little extract of
lemon; mix the spices with the flour;. put the soda in the
milk and stir well, that all the ingredients may thoroughly
mix; beat the cake well for another 5 minutes; put it ina
buttered tin—bake from one-half to three-quarters of an
hour. This is niceeaten warm. I used buckwheat honey for
those at the Convention.

GIneEeR HONEY Cake.—Take 1% lbs. of honey, Y¥ Ib. of
butter, 144 Ibs. of flour, 1 ounce of ginger, 44 ounce of ground
allspice, 1 teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, 4 of a pint of
sour milk, cream if you choose, 3 eggs; put the flour into a
basin with the ginger and allspice ; mix these together, warm
the butter and add it with the honey to the other ingredients ;
stir well; make the milk just warm and dissolve the soda in
it, and make the whole into a nice, smooth paste with the
eggs which should be previously well whisked; pour the
mixture into a buttered tin—bake it from % to1 hour; take
the white of 1 egg and beat it up with a little sweet wilk and
take a feather and brush the top; this will give it a glossy
appearance. This cake can be baked in 2 equal pie tins.

Honey Cooxizs.—One pint honey ; 44 cup butter; 1 cup
sweet milk; 2 eggs; 14 a grated nutmeg. Beat the eggs and
honey together until they froth, then add the butter anc
milk; use yeast powder wita the flour.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE,

Cooking GREEN FruitT.—If mellow, use only extracted
honey, it being the only liquid, it holds the fruit firm and
gives a very rich flavor ; sweeten or season with spices, to suit
the taste. Cook slowly until done.

Cooking DriepD FruiIT.—Cook same as above, only add
water enough to swell the fruit, after which add the extracted
honey and spices, to suit the taste. Cook slowly until done.’

PRESERVES.—Fruit may be preserved with honey by
pu'ting the fruit first in the can, then pouring honey over it,
wud seal air-tight ; when the honey is poured from the fruit
it will have the flavor and appearance of jelly, making a
delicious dessert. a

_ PRESERVING FRuIT.—Extracted honey, instead of sugar,
is superior in every way for preserving fruit. Itis not apt to
sour and require a second boiling. Pick the fruit, wash it
and drain otf the water; then place it in a large kettle or
pan and add one-third as much honey as there is fruit, boiling
it until the taste of the honey has evaporated.

Honey Popr-Corn Barzts.—Take 1 pint of extracted
honey, put in an iron frying-pan and boil until very thick,
then stir in freshly-parched corn, and when cool mold into
balls. These will especially delight the children,

CHEAP HARVEST DRINK.—To those engaged in harvesting
and other occupations tending to create thirst, recommend the
following preparation, which makes a bet palatable and
healthful drink in hot weather: Take12 gallons of water, 20
lbs. of honey and 6 eggs, using the whites only. Let these
boil 1 hour; then add cinnamon, ginger, cloves, mace and a
little rosemary. When cold,add 1 spoonful of yeast from the
brewer. Stir it well, and in 24 hours it will be good.

8. J. YOUNGMAN. GEORGE. E. HILTON.

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AN APIARY IN THE WEST.

MONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE,

NATURE AND PREPARATION OF TONEY.

Trem NATURE OF TONEY.

ONEY, frésh from the comb, is clear, translucent,
3 slightly amber-colored, and viscous, becoming granu:
> Jarin time, with whitish transparent crystals. In taste
and smell, it is sweet, agreeable andaromatic. Itshould not:
irritate the throat when eaten, and its peculiar flavor should
beso decided, that it can be readily detected when mixed
with other articles of die:.

Honey derived from the blossoms of rape and othev
cruciferous plants, granulates or crystalizes speedily—often,
indeed, while yet in the comb before removal from the hive ;
while that from labiate plants, and from fruit trees in
general, maintains its original condition unchanged for sev-
eral months, after being extracted from the comb. Honey
produced in northern climates likewise crystallizes sooner
than that from southern countries.

“Under the microscope,” says the Druggists’ Advertiser, “the
solid part of honey is seen to consist of myriads of regularly -
formed crystals ; these crystals are for the most part exceed-
ingly thin and transparent, and very brittle, so that many of
them are broken and imperfect ; but when entire they consist
of six-sided prisms, apparently identical in form with those
of cane sugar. It is probable, however, that these represent
the crystals of dextrose, as they oceur in honeys from which
eane sugar is nearly or wholly absent. Intermingled with
the crystals may also be seen pollen granules of different
forms. sizes and structure, often in such perfect condition
that they may be referred to the particular plant from whick
the juices have been gathered. Crystalline sugar, analogous
to grape sugar, may be obtained by treating granular honey
with a small quantity of alcohol, which, when expressed,
takes along with it the other ingredients, leaving the crystals
nearly untouched. The same end may be attained by melt-
ing the honey, saturating its acid with carbonate of calcium,
filtering the liquid, then setting it aside to crystallize, and
washing the crystals with alcohol. Inferior honey usually
contains a large proportion of uncrystallizable sugar and
vegetable acid. When diluted with water, honey undergoes,
the various fermentation, and in very warm weather a1.
inferior grade of honey will sometimes undergo a change

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

acquiting a pungent taste and a deeper color. The usual
adulterations of honey are with various forms of starch, as
those of the potato and wheat, and with starch and cane
sugars. The starch is added to whiten dark honey, and to
correct the acidulous taste which old honey is apt to acquire,
as well as for the sake of increased weight. The presence of
starch may be readily detected by the usual iodine test.
Honey is now rarely adulterated, in this country at least, as
owing to the large supply, the conditions that once made
sophistication profitable now no longer exist.”

THE QUALITY OF HONEY.

Athea, in Greece, furnished, from the south side of
Mount Hymettus, and Sicily, from the hill and country
surrounding Hybla, in which place Thyme scents the air,
honey, which, was for ages held to be the finest and best.
Also the honey from the country surrounding Mantua, the
home of Virgil, from Mount Ida, from the shores of the
Black Sea, and from the islands of Crete, Cyprus, and
Kalydon, were held in high esteem ; and even yet, the honey
from Spain, and especially from the Grecian Islands, is
highly prized, and every year hundreds of quintals are trans-
pee to Constantinople, and is of great demand at the

alace of the Sultan. Of most excellent quality is the honey
from the Island of Minorca, from Charmouny in Savoy,
from Champagne, Narbonne and Montpellier, in southern
France, and also that from Portugal. The latter is nearly
white, and receives a pleasant aromatic taste from the
abundant rosemary and other sweet-scented flowers, fruits
and herbs. Bohemian honey was noted in ancient times for
its rich aroma and its bright gold color; also in the vicinity
of Salzbury and the Alps, the honey has rare value.

In districts producing a great diversity of plants and
flowers, those which decidedly predominate determine the
quality of the honey there gathered. Natural meadows, and
artificial pasture grounds, sown with esparsette, lucerne,
melilot, white clover, &c., generally yield a very pure, white,
sweet, and aromatic honey. The nature of the soil, climate,
general temperature, and even the prevalent winds, have
likewise considerable influence on the quality and quantity
of the honey produced in any district. Thus, easterly and
south-easterly winds rapidly dry up the honey in the nectaries
of aca and long-continued drouth prevents the secretion
of nectar.

THE SOURCES OF HONEY.

A writer on this interesting subject remarks that Honey is
solely a vegetable product, not made. but gathered from the
nectar of flowers, where it is secreted in fine weather accord~
ing to the iules of Nature’s laboratory. Each flower yields

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE, 27

honey of its own peculiar flavor, which, if not gathered, is
soon evaporated and lost. Trees and flowers of nearly every
variety produce both honey and pollen; but there are three
distinct honey harvests in each year. The spring harvest is
at its height when the apple trees are in blossom. Although
the willow, hazel, elder, soft maple and tiny spring flowers
each produce honey and_pollen nearly a month before apple
trees are in blossom, and they form for the bees an accepta-
ble change from the spare winter diet and also stimulate
breeding, yet the bees scarcely gather from these what they
consume during the time they are in blossom. When the
hard or sugar maple is in blossom, and the peach, pear, and
cherry are rich in honey and pelle they extend an invita-
tion which is never slighted by the provident bees. The
apple tree is classed with the raspberry, yielding an excessive
flow of excellent honey. The wild cherry is rich in honey.
The locust tree, either the yellow or black, is a great pro-
ducer of honey, and while in bloom the bees will swarm
around it tothe neglect of other flowers. White clover is of
great value everywhere, it continues to blossom about two
months, yielding superior honey. Tulip trees, called by
some whitewood, blossom soon after the appearance of
white clover, and secretes much pure saccharine matter ;
nearly one-fourth of a teaspoonful is often contained in one
of its large bell-shaped flowers. The catnip, borage, straw-
berry, the butterbush, blackberry, persimmon, melilot clover,
sourwood, mignonette, hoarhound, motherwort, chestnut,
and various kinds of garden flowers, are rich in bony and
valuable when in sufficient quantities. About the mi dle of
July the linn or basswood opens it ten thousand fragrant

etals. Where this timber abounds the bees reap a rich
1arvest. Mustard is their especial favorite. A month
later buckwheat sends forth its blossoms, lasting nearly tive
weeks, and: in favorable seasons this is the principal fall
supply, besides enough honey wastes by evaporation to purify
the air for some distance around. <A further supply is
furnished by the golden rod, fireweed, smartweed, boneset,
asters of various kinds, and the yellow Spanish needle. The
. smartweed seems to be a summer as well as a fall plant, and,
with the Spanish needle and boneset, yields a chief supply
in the north-west. Golden rod and aster is produced chiefly
in the Middle States; furnishing in some seasons immense
supplies of honey.

PREPARATION OF HONEY FOR THE MARKET.

In no country on the face of the earth is honey produced,
either in ancient or modern times, that can excel or even
equal that produced in America. Nature’ has supplied this
vast Continent with honey-sources as varied and plenteous
as can be found anywhere in the world. And within the

28 HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE.

peat few years, many improved methods and appliances have
-been invented for the increased production of honey, as well
as to vastly enrich the quality of this product. Simultane-
ously with these improvements, we lind the consequent
increased consumption. Heretofore it was a luxury enjoyed
only by a few—but now it takes its place among the staple
articles for general use. Improvements in the management
and culture, as well as increased production, have brought the
price down to that which can be afforded by every family...

Comps IIONEY.

Not only have we forsaken the log-gums and rude straw
‘and box hives of our fathers, and given these busy little
workers a neater home with movable frames to contain their
combs, but we have taught them to store their surplus comb
honey in small sectional frames, so that it can be easily taken
from the hives when full,and marketed in convenient shape,
suited to the requirements of retail purchasers.

EXTRACTED IIONEY.

Considerable confusion has resulted from consumers think-
ing ‘‘ Extracted” and ‘‘Strained” IIoney the same thing.
The former is obtained by the frames being uncapped and
placed in a basket or frame holder, which, being attached
to a single rod, is put into a large can and revolved—the
centrifugal force throwing out the honey from the combs,
which runs down the sides of the can and is drawn off and

laced in pails, cans, jars, or some other desirable receptacle.
extracted honey is the pure liquid—minnus the comb.

* Strained honey ” is another thing—the result of inashing
up combs, used in the breeding apartment of the hive, and
containing bee-bread, dead bees, &c., and catching what
passes through the cloth—that is strained honcy, and is quite
different from the pure virgin-honey, which when extracted
still has the flavor of the bloom from whence it came.

The strained honey known to commerce is the adulterated
—that which will not granulate. Consumers help to impose
upon themselves by the false idea that pure honey will not
granulate. They desire ungranuiated honey and conscience-
less dealers will supply the demand. Alinost all pure honey
will granulate late in the fall and winter. The granulated
state is one evidence of purity. Much of the jar honey sold in
the markets, and recommended not to granulate, is a very
inferior article composed largely of glucose.

Granulated honey can be reduced to its liquid state in a
few moments by placing the jar in warm water. When thus
liquefied it so remains for a time before again crystallizing.
Consumers may be sure of obtaining a wholesome article by
purchasing granulated honey and liquefying it.

HONEY, AS FOOD AND MEDICINE,

Scorcu. HONEY WINES AND Mrap.—The following are
Recipes for the Honey-Winesand Mead which took the prizes
at the Bee and Toney Shows in Scotland, in 1877, 1878 and
1879:

Honey WINE.—First prize, 1877. Four pounds of honey
and 1 ounce of hops to each gallon of water; boil for 3 hours
and skim Ul clear; when lukewarm add yeast on toast, and
when worked, barrel off. Should not be bottled for 12
months; if left in barrel for 2 years all the better.

Honry WINE.—Second prize, 1877. To each gallon of
water add 6 lbs. of candied honey and the white of 2 eggs,
with the shells broken up ; boil over a slow tire, taking off the
scum as it rises. When clear add an ounce of hops to the
gallon and boil for 1 hour; strain the liquor, and when cooled
to lukewarmness, adda very small quantity of yeast on toast ;
let it work 2 or 8 days before being put into a barrel, and
when it has done working, put in the bung. Bottle it after
at least 1 year; if 2 years, all the better. as it is extremely
apt to break the bottles.. 1t will be very light in color when
first bottled, but the color will deepen with age.

HONEY WINE.—Prize, 1878... To 6 gallons of water add 26
lbs. of honey, boil for half an hour and skim. Add 4 ounces
of hops and strain into a cooler; add the rind and juice of 2
lemons and 6 tablespoonsful of yeast, well stirred in. Let it
work for a day and then put into a barrel, into which half a
bend of brandy has first been emptied. Bottle after 1u
months.

HONEY WINE.—First prize, 1878. To 6 gallons of water
add 24 lbs. of honey, boil for 144 an hour, removing the scum
as it rises; add 3 ounces of the best hops, boil 5 minutes and
strain into a puncheon or tub to cool ; when milk warm, stir
in 6 tablespoonsful of yeast, and let it work for 24 hours;
bee iad add 44 a bottle of pale brandy, and then bottle in

2 months. ;

Honey WinzE.—First prize, 1879. One gallon of water,5 lbs.
honey, 244 glasses of cognac brandy, 4 ounce of stick ginger
(bruised) and 2 laurel leaves. ‘The whole to be well mixed
together in a vat, in which it should remain until fermented,
and during the process of fermentation to be skimmed twice
a day, until it ceases; afterwards the whole to be boiled and
carefully skimmed until the surface is clear. It must then
be .allowed to stand till cold, when it should be carefully
strained till thoroughly clear, then should be barreled after
adding the whites of 2 eggs with their shells, being thoroughly
beaten up, with a slice or two of lemon peel, completely
mixed up. It should then be tightly barreled up and allowed
to stand in the cask for 6 months. beforebeing bottled.

Bees and Fruit—Uses of Honey.
10:
BEES AND Frurit.—Bees do not puncture Fruit, as some assert.
When fruit is over-ripe, or the skins of grapes are bursted, the bees
will sometimes appropriate the juice, greatly to their detriment,
when no honey can be gathered. Such juices soon sour in the hives.
and become unfit for the food of bees in winter—and disease an
death is the result. Many bee-keepers also raise fruit, and their
testimony universally agrees with the statement here made.

On the other hand, bees are the best friends of the growers of small
fruit. They fructify the flowers, and cause the fruit to mature.
Were it not for the bees, and other insects, to fertilize the flowers,
the trees and vines would cease to bear fruit, and become useless.

In a certain town in New England,,so strong was the belief that
bees injured the fruit, that an ordinance was passed, obliging the
bee-keepers to remove their bees to another locality. After a year
or two, the fruit-growers decided to have the bees brought back,
because so little fruit matured upon the trees.
if (
yy

Honey Cakes. Du
\

Honey Frvit
Carr. — Take
113 cups honey
2¢ cup butter,
1; cup of sweet
milk, 3 eggs
well beaten, 3
cups of flour, 2
tea - spoonfuls
baking powder

' 2 cups raisins,
1. tea-spoonful
each of cloves

—To 3 eggs well } h )
beaten, add 114
cups ofextracted
honey, 1 cup sour
cream or butter-
milk,1¢teaspoon-
ful of soda, and 3
cups of flour, to
which was added
1 tea spoonful of
baking powder.
Bake in jell pans

:

and put together and cinnamon.
with lemon paste Honey Laser.
made as follows: Pastr. — Stir

In the juice of 1
lemon dissolve 1
table-spoonful of
corn-starch, pour
on it 14 a cup of
boiling water, 144
cup of extracted
honey, and one
table-spoonful of
sugar.

wheat flour in
cold water and
leave no lumps
—pour on boil-
ing water, and
stir it until it
boils. Use hot
orcold. When
cold, resernbles
hasty pudding.

Uses ror Honry.—In all ages honey has been used for many pur-
poses. The Ancient Britons used it to make mead, and this drink
continued to be much used hundreds of years after them. When
malt liquors became popular, and when sugar was introduced, then
the usa of honey decreased, but lately it has increased materially.

H-oey is largely used in the manufacture of honey chocolate-
creams and honey chocolate-tablets. There is a delicious taste of
the honey in these articles, but they are so judiciously b'ended with
the cther materials that they are not too sweet.

Honey is also now generally used by the confectioners in the place
of sugarin many kinds of lozenges, cough drops and other sweet-
meats. Glycerine and honey jujubes for the throat; corn and honey
food; herbal tablets, etc., are only afew of the many things which
might be mentioned. In the toilet, it is used in soap and dentifrice.

There are many persons who are not allowed to use sugar at all;
to these honey comes asa boon. Itis a curious thing to note tha’
even the angler now uses honey, and natural honey fish-bait is put
down in the list of necessaries for the mcdern complete angler.

Effect of Honey on the Human System.

The masses do not realize the value of honey from a hygienic
stand-point, else it would have more than kept pace with sugar as
an article of human consumption.

Dr. Vance makes such very excellent remarks on this subject that
we can do no better than to give them entire; ‘ Honey is a physio-
logical sweet ; in other words, its constituents are such that it is
absorbed into the blood without undergoing chemical change. Such
is not the fact with regard to sugar. Sugar is indigestible, or rather
not as susceptible of absorption and assimilation as honey, but it
requires the action of the gastric juice to split or invert its elements,
the muriatic acid element of the gastric juice being the chief agent
in this chemical transportation. This change produces what is
termed in chemistry dextrose and levulose. I presume this explana-
tion does not convey a very clear or definite idea of the nature of
these products, for the names applied only indicate how they affect

larized light. After this change occurs, absorption takes place.

in any way it is hindered, or, on account of an excess of sugar
above the capacity of the gastric juice to transform, there remains
a residue, the result is decomposition into elements that irritate and
inflame the mucus membrane of the intestinal canal, producing a list
of ailments too numerous to mention here. Think of the legions of
little ones who have been the victims of their universal fondness
for sweets, and who so frequently suffer from the gastric troubles
which are, in a large degree, the result of sugar indigestion. How
many, many children have perished from eating candy !

“The importance of sugar as an element of food may be inferred
from the large proportion of the elements of our food which. is
transformed by the action of the digestive organs, into the con-
stituents of sugar. Consider the proportions of bread, potatoes and
vegetables that we consume daily, all of which must undergo this
saccharine change before they are suitable to be appropriated by the
human system ; it may give an approximate idea of the amount of
these elements that are required to nouris’ our bodies.

“Tf, therefore, the saccharine comprises so large a part of the
elements of our food, does it not become an important question as to
what form of sweet is the most appropriate and_healthful for the
nutrition of the human body? For the reasons I shall hereafter
enumerate, it seems to me that you will agree with me that honey is
the most important and the’ most healthful, because it is absorbed
into the system without change, and, because, unlike sugars, it does
not easily undergo fermentation. The formic acid which is an
ingredient of honey, prevents chemical change and the morbid
processes arising from decomposition of sugar.

“Let me repeat the points of difference in ordinary sugars and
syrups, and their comparative inferiority to honey as a saccharine
food: Honey is an inverted sugar consisting of levulose (fruit-
sugar) and dextrose (starch-sugar) and readily absorbed into the
system without being acted upon by the gastric juice, converting,
as itis expressed in chemical language, inverting it into dextrose
and levulose, before it is susceptible of absorption and assimilation
in the blood. When thus acted upon by the digestive organs, it is
assimilable, but in case of weakness of digestion, this action does not
occur, and decomposition is sure to follow. Honey is not only a
delicious form of sweet, but is a very healthful and nutritious form
of food. It aids the natural functions of the alimentary canal. It is
recommended by those who have thus used it, as a refreshing drink,
diluted with water in the proportion of from 2 to 5 per cent.”’

Pure honey should always be freely used in every family—Honey
eaten upon wheat bread is very beneficial to health,

HONEY POT- POURRI.

Hum-sweet-hum—that of the honey-bee.

To purify beeswax, melt and cool slowly over a body of water.

It is at a “quilting-bee’’ where you hear the “stinging ”’ remarks.

Put honey in your tea to sweeten it, andif you are troubled with
gravel, it will cure it.

The first bees brought to America were landed in Boston, Mass.,
1670, by some Englishman.

A tea-spoonful of warm honey taken every 15 minutes has a
surprising effect on catarrh.

Diphtheria and sore throat in the early stages can be cured by
honey taken warm, or in food.

Onion juice instantly applied will allay the pain caused hy the
stings of bees or other insects.

Honey is one of the purest sweets used, and when its healthfulness
is considered, it is the cheapest.

What is the difference between a honey-comb and a honey-moon?
The one is a lot of small cells, ani the other is one great sell ‘

Substitute Honey for sugar in the Recipes given in your cook-hook,
and you will vastly improve the flavor.

What is the difference between a bee and a donkey? One gets the
honey, and the other the whacks (wax).

If a boy wishes to know whether the bees see or not—let him put
his finger into the entrance of a bee-hive!

The constant use of honey is without the slightest danger, even
during an epidemic of cholera. It cures constipation.

A school-teacher asked a boy to pronounce s-t-i-n-g-y. Before
doing so he asked whether it was to be applied to a man or a bee.

Public speakers should freely use honey. The formic acid which
it contains cures affections of the mouth, throat, lungs and chest.

Doctors use honey for many purposes, and some doctors are good
bee-keepers; and the purity of their medicines may be guaranteed.

The pain and swelling consequent upon the stinging of a bee, will
leave if bathed with equal parts of the tincture of aconite, laudanum.
and chloroform.

Because cheap cane sugars have been taken into the stomach in
unreasonable quantity, the liver has been unable to transform them,
resulting in disordering both organs.

Bread broken up in a bowl, covered first with honey and then with
a thick cream, and eaten, will permeate the organs of taste, and give
the whole system a feeling of ecstasy and delight. Cream neutralizes
any ill efiects the sweetness may produce in the human stomach.

Children would rather eat bread and honey than bread and butter:
one pound of honey will reach as faras two pounds of butter, and
itis far more healthy and pleasant to the taste. It always remains
good, while butter becomes rancid, and often produces cramp in the
stomach, eructations, sourness, vomiting and diarrhea.

The magnitude of the industry of ‘‘bees and houey” can be
estimated by the fact that there are in North America 300,000
who keep bees, and if these apiaries average but 10 colonies each,
the number of colonies reaches 3,000,000, and if these produce but
the very small average of 30 pounds of honey per colony, then the
product is 90,000,000 of pounds of honey, worth 810,000,000
and if each colony of bees yields but one pound of beeswax early,
then the wax product at 20 cents per pound, is worth $600,000.

BEESWAX AND HONEY.

How Beeswax 1s Mave by the Bees, is described thus: “It is no
mere extraneous substance which needs only to be collected for use ;
it is a bit of individual organic home stineittanture, If you examine
the under surface of a cell-building worker-bee, you will find beneath
the abdomen four pairs of white plates projecting from as many
pockets in the incasing rings of this part oe the body, These are the
wax plates, made from the life-blood of the worker. Examine now
with a lens one of the hinder legs. You will find that the stoutest
joints are very square-shouldered at the hings, and that the hinge is
well over to one side, so that the shoulders form a pair of jaws,
which open when the limb is bent, and close when it is straightened.
The “REEL jaw has a row of spines which bite on a plate on the lower
jaw. ith this apparatus, piercing in with these spines, the worker-
bee withdraws a wax plate from its pocket, transfers it to the front
legs, and thence to the mouth, where it is laboriously masticated
with a salivary secretion. Unless it undergoes this process it lacks
the ductility requisite for cell-making.”’

Honey aNnpD wk of one part of
GuiucosE.—The 7 dextrose and
former is very three parts of

different from _ dextrine — a
the glucose of = gummy sub-
commerce. ‘stance used in

Honey is a stiffening cali-

mixture very
nearly in equal
parts of dex-
trose and lacu-
lose. The dex-
trose is what
granulates—is
the same kind
of sugar as is
found dried in
raisins, and is
about 1 as
sweet as cane
sugar. Thelac-
ulose will not
candy, and is
sweeter than

coes and gum-
ming postage
stamps. Dex-
trine is never
found in pure
honey. A test
of dextrine is
the solution of
sub-acetate of
lead, or Gou-
lard’s water,
found at any
drug store.—
This precipi.
mr 6tates the dex-

i trine in any
mixture as a

cane sugar. & thick white

Glucose from a is eurd, which
starchisamix- . ANAS ~*~ floats in the
ture generally #80 VZAWING SVR liquid.

_The same solution put into honey does not change itscolor. This
simple test is very striking, and always reliable.

To Detect BEESwAX ADULTERATION.—When beeswax is chewed,
says an expert, it should have no disagreeable taste, and must not
stick to the teeth. In the adulterated wax, the nature of the foreign
material can generally be detected by the taste; the addition of fat
can generally be readily detected. If it sticks to the teeth,'the
presence of resin may be assumed. A simple method of detecting
the presence of fat in wax consists in melting it, and placing a drop
on a piece of woolen cloth. After it is Parircwal cold and solidified,
pour ona few dropsof 90 per cent. of alcohol, and rub the cloth
between the hands. The wax willbe converted into dust, and will
easily separate from the cloth if it contains no fat, and will leave no
stain; when it contains fat, it will leave grease-spots.

WHAT IS HONEY ?

It is avegetable product, not made, but gathered from flowers
where it is secreted according to therules of Nature’s laboratory.
Each flower yields honey of itsown peculiar flavor, which is generally
easily recognized. No article for human consumption can be more
delicious than Honey, and none is more beneficial to the human
system. Honey is food in one of its most concentrated forms.

Honey in the Comb.

“Within the past few years many improved methods ana appliances
have been invented to increase the production of Comb Honey.
: Honey is now produced by the bees, in
/ small sectional-boxes (see engraving),
with the cells capped, ready to grace the
table and tempt the palate of every lover
of that delicious article—Comb Honey.

These ‘‘sections’’ of honey are taken
from the hive just as finished by the bees,
crated and placed upon the market.

An inventive genius lately started the
story that combs were being made of
paraffine, filled with glucose, and sold for
comb honey. That is a falsehood, admitted
by its author when proof was demanded.

Honey Extracted: from the Comb.

Pure Extracted Honey is obtained by shaving off the delicate
cappings of the cells, putting the combs into the little revolving
basket of a Honey Extractor (see engraving), and. then
by revolving the basket containing the comb, by means
of the crank, the honey is thrown outsby centrifugal,
force, runs down the sides of the Can, and drawn off &é
and put into jars, pails, or any desirable receptacle.
Extracted Honey is the pure liquid—minus the comb.

Some ask: ‘‘How can Extracted Honey be sold
cheaper than that in the Comb—if it is.pure?”? We
reply, Because the comb is of more value than the
honey ; for it takes from 15 to 20 Ibs. of honey to}
produce one pound of comb. By improved methods
we compel the bees to build straight combs in frames ; |
these can be removed in an instant, the bees brushed Kh
off, the honey extracted, and the combs returned to the %
hive to be again filled by the bees. <i“

Granulated or Candied Honey.

Almost all pure honey will granulate when exposed
for some time to light and cold. The granulated state
is one evidence of purity.

Granulated honey can be reduced to its liquid state in
a few moments by placing the can or jarin warm
water. When thus liquefied,,it so remains for a time,
but will again candy.

Northern honey candies sooner than Southern.

}

yy

)
a

What is Strained Money ?

“Strained Honey” which will not granulate or candy, is nearly
always glucose, with enough honey to flavor it, and thus deceive.

Consumers help to impose upon themselves by the false idea that
pure honey will not granulate ; they desire liquid honey, and dealers
will supply it. Much of that remaining liquid, isa very inferior
article, composed largely of glucose, surrounding a piece of comb.

INDEX TO SUBJECTS.

0
PAGE | APICULTURE— PAGE
ADVICE TO BEGINNERS....... 147 As an Avocation.......... 26
Adopt a Standard Frame. 149 |. Experience Necessary .25, 147
Bees in Box Hives ........ a) Fascination of........ . 135
Care of a First Colony .... 30 Profits of..... 25
How Many to Begin with 28 Requisites to. .25, 103, 147, 150
Engrafting a Queen Cell. 151 ATOMIZER—for Spraying” Bees 62
Experience Essential ..25, 147 BARNES’ FOOT-POWER SAW... 43
Increase by Division...... 149 Basswoop (or Linden) ...104,
Intelligent Management. 147 |— DZD peieis: s:es, wvsisis sitions
Keep an Apiary Register. 149 BEE AND HONEY SHOWS.
Location, selection of..... 147 BEE FerpDErs,and Feeding. 80,
Make the Apiary Beautiful 149 BL 82s cgcneiis casera vee cas 153
Nuclei—How Made..... ah, 152 Division Board Feeder. 81
Overstocking the Field.... 154 How to Prepare the Food. 154
Plan for an Apiary........ 148 Shuck’s Feeder............ 82
Preparation of Bee Food . 153 When, What and How to
Prevention of Swarming... 153 OCG sinecsysiscessraszueter tet. ive Sanyo 153
Provide Continual Bloom. 154 BEE GLOVES........... v.84
Science—not Luck ........ 59 | | Ber GLUE (or ey co 24
Swarming, or Dividing ... 152 | > How removed from Hands +
What kind of Bees to get. 29 BEE HOUSES................... 145
When to Commence ...... 28 BrE-KEEPING A SCIENCE ..... as)
When to Purchase . . 29 BrEE-KEEPING— ; :
Who should keep Bees... 26 Pe Meal aM ie a 147
AFTER SWARMS ............... 68 Amount of Honey Gath-
ANATOMY OF BEES.......14to 20 | - ered by a single Bee...
ANTS IN THE APIARY......... B34]: ASCIONCE iiss ssc vieisisteies siecle
APIARY-- As an Avocation
Arrangement, Situation Buying Swarms .
and Stocking 25 Experience Esse
Carriage for..... 94 Fascination of.............
Hives to face Sou 28 | Growth of the Industry...
Italianizing . ... 60 TO Cites nc dscsecsccnarae sean
Location of ...... -.26, 147 Intelligent Managem’t.59, 147
Make it Beautifu 149 “Tuck” a Falacy.......... 59
Management 59 88 Profits of................ 25, 110
Of Mr. Elvin Armstrong... 59 Requisites..... 25, 103, 47; 150
Mr. F. Honan in Cyprus 141 When to Commence....... 28
Mr. J. H. Robertson..... 10 | Bee Mora.............. w. 48
Mons. Fd. Bertrand . 26 BEE SMOKERS—Use of 84
Mons. De Layens........ 44 BEESWwAx—
Near St. Lawrence River 103 ‘ Extractor for. ............ 99
Signor Bianchi .......... 25 Honey Converted into.23, 97
Signor Fiorini, in {taly.. 132 Production of... .. 20, 25, 99
Overstocking a Locality .. 154 Should all be Preserved... 99
Pasturage for....... 103 to 130 BLUE (GUM ce aaced on oa seein ees 106
Plan £0PF v2.04 soncnes ose 148, 149 BEE VEILs (face protection).. 85
Protection against Winds. 27 BERGAMOT ..........2...05 121, 123
Register or Account Book 149 BOKHARA (or Sweet Clover) .. 108
SHAGE 108 cso <veewnoued cana 27 BORAGB opiicseeiccrepsace vasoecsieveiscine 59, 130
Situation Ofc... co.cee. eerew 25 BUCKWHBAT.............4. 114, 412

186

BEE CULTURE.

BEE PASTURAGE— BEES— PAGE
A Necessity ... Abdominal Segments ..... pau
Arbor Days American-Italians in Italy 134
Bees Fertilizing P Ancient History of.. 11
Continuous Bloom Anger of ..........-. 82, "83, 84
Culture of Flower Beds... 126 Anterior Leg of Worker... 19
Floral Columns for Lawns 120 As Fertilizers of Plants.10, 33
Floral Gardens........ 120, tee Apis Americana........... 134
Floral Lawns.............. Apis Dorsata, of Java..... 132
Floral Windows & Arches 133 Bee Gloves ............ 85
For Honey and Decoration 119 Bee Glue—Removing..... 34
For Honey, exclusively... 115 Bee of the Future.....131, 134
Foxglove, Poisonous..122, 123 Bee Veil . ' 85
How to Plant........ 103 to 148 Breeding the Best. 131
In Field and on Roadside. 108 Burying in Winter 146

Overstocking a Locality... 26 Buying........ ....

Planting Forest Trees..... 128
Ribbon Flower Beds...... 124 Carniolan 32
Sweet Clover tor Fodder.. 109 Cleanliness ot . Bea
Without Cultivation .. 109 Colony Organization oO 13, 96
TimberRange Desirable 27, 148 Desirable Points in........ 131
Trees for Shade and Honey 104 Development of .9,14 to 20, 131
What to Plant.. .103 to 130 Different Varieties ........ 132
Alsike Clover. ..111, TT, ae Division of Hive Work.. 96
FASTOLS ns. <icscecars ateiusoncse ae Do Bees Injure Fruit? . 32, 33,
Bacconia Japonica...... Driving .. ...187, 152
Basswood(linden)104.125, ei Drones, function of....... 16
Bergamot . 7121, 123 Eggs and Brood . 19
Blue Gum i Fall Management. of . 144
Bokhara (sw Feed and Feeding ..80, 81, 153
Borage Habits and incidents o Bo
Boxelder.. Head ot Queen.. . 14
Buckwheat . Head of Drone.. sue oa
Catnip....... Head of Worker. ... 18
Cleome ....... Improvement in ....131 to 134
scoring WANC desssiviad s0i5se 123 Industry, a Quality in..... 131
SENT: ce mys ctcracye oe, huceanicentes tin 125 Tnnumerable Journeysof. 9
Eucalyptus (Blue Gum). 106 Ttalian Bees .6,17,18,59,70, 147

Figwort(RockyMountain

Kept on Shares............
BeePlant)119,123,130, 156

Kind to Purchase

Fruit Trees. .............. 107 Legs of Worker.....
Golden Rod... Length of Tongues ...132, 13:
Ground Ivy Management in Spring.... 150
Holly Hock. 123 Marking their Location... 31
Honey Locust. ..103,106, 107 Moving, ashort Distance. 28
Judas Tree............... 129 Ovaries of Queen.......... 15
Maple «scscceaveisvaceees 129 Queen, functions of. ... 14
Marigold .........-...-.++ 130 Quieting & Handling 82,84, 3
Mignonette 117, 127 Races OF s .csex vese ve case , 132
Mint 156 Removing from Combs. . i)
Motherwort 118, 130 Respiratory Organs ....... 4
Mustard ...114, 123, 130, 180 Robbing ................... 80
Peppermint pecans ee , 124 Shipping................ 76, 77
ie wa oie Wheatiovn Bacedhea aay 156 Stand, raked, forApiary. 56
Re Clones Sting of ...26,. 83
Scotch Heather Strong Colonics Necessar: xy 154
Sourwood........... 129 Syrians and Cyprians.132, 133
Spider Plant....116, 123, 130 Tongue of ............. 132) 133
SweetCloverimelilot}108, i Transferring 74
Teasel.........-... Uniting Coloni 78

Washing out Drone Brood 75
Water for.
WOTKETS. ose oe ceees 70

Tulip (poplar).. a
White (or Butoh) ree 113
Willow..... 106, 122, 125, 156

BEE CULTURE. 187

GE
CASES, to hold Sections... 41
CADNIP jg 0d teencouiioennnies 119, 130
CHAFF HIVES AND PACKING.. 143
CLEANSING COMBS ............ 33

CLEOME

COLONIES, care of first. .
How and When Mo
How to Divide.........
Pasturage for. .103 to 150,
Preparing for Shipment 76, 77
Should always be strong 34, 154

ComsB—
Building.........10, 21, 23, 95
Bases and Cross-Sections. 95
Cleansing from dead brood 33
Dead Brood in,............ 33
How to keep Moth out of. 48
New, desirable ......... 95, 102

Peculiarity of ....... , 96
Production of....... . at
Removing Rees from ..33, 75

COMB _FOUNDATION—
Advantages of ..93, 95, 97, 150
Bright Yellow, best 102
Cutting Starters.....

Dunham Mill..... ..... ..
Fastening to frames 56,100, 101
Given Press.......... 95

How much to use .
Invention of...
Kinds in use.....
Manufacture of ....
Not “Artificial”
Thin, for Surplus Honey.. 102
coms Honey—see “Honey.”

Assort and Grade......... 47
Apparatus to Secure.. 38
Candying of 5
Care OL erica catego sions

Getting Bees out 47
Handling and Shipping... 50
Management .............. 47
Marketing of........ 51

Ornamental Sectionsfor.. 95
How to keep Moth out of.. 48

Marketing of......... 45to 51
Production of .38, 39,45to 51
Rack for : 38

Sections LOY sche 0%

ers ior Sections . 38
. 48
Metal Corners for ... 2 Be

CYPRIAN AND SYRIAN BEES -. 132
DISEASES OF BEES—
Chilled Brood.............- 33
Dead Brood in Cells..

Dysentery ...........- .. 87
Foul Brood . a 88
DIviston BOARD....... ... 6+
Feeder in........ ss ave SL
Not Patented 64

PAGE
Diviston OF COLONIES.....65, 151
DRONES—

Cells of ............ ai tae “Sah
Development of .......16, 17
Function of........ . 16
Head of .... 17
Numtero 17
Washing out B 3 75
When Nevessury .. ies ae
D2ZIERZON........ 62. veces 1d
EGGS isis. s 3 -gepecnes-as af)
Empty CoMBs.... 2, OS
Usesof....... 92, 93
EXTRACTED HON 181

AsaCommercial Product 58

Glass Honey Jars ......... Bt
Increasing Demau:d for .. 51
Marketing of rensoctsare D2 to 56, 183

4 53
Production and Care.51to 56
Ripening of.......... 91

Small Kegs for......

Sun-Evaporator for.......
FEEDERS—scee Bee Fecders . £0
FERTILE (see laying) WORKERS 71
FERTILIZATION OF FLOWERS. _10
PIGWORD scx. o0e24 shies 119, 123, 1:.0
FRAME OF BROOD..

For Sections . 49
Gallup...... 143
Langstroth.. <6
Movable.......... satiny oad

Revolving Holder 61, &9

Should be all of one size... 94

Transferred Cumb.... ae
Frouit—Do Bees injure . ee
GLASSING SECTIONS..... . 46

Tin Points for..... 42

Tool for........ sie . 2a
GOLDEN Rops............. 121, 128
GrapPEes—DoBees injure them? 32
GROUND. IVY viise cio gino eecinnen 08 12:
HIVES—

A good one Necessary.... £5

Box, how to examine ..... 29

Bees Marking Location of (31
haff 14

Chath cons: segesn sashes sense 3
Ghiwelak Location of 31
Division Board for... 64
Division Board Feede 81
For Observation.. 35
Gallup......... wee 143
Langstroth...... resis)
Movable Frame............ -

Position in the oe £8
Registering Slates for.. 67
Removing Hives .......... 28
Shade tor .................. 104
Supers, for Sections ...37, "8
What to Use............... 5

188 BEE CULTURE.

Hoxzy— PAGE
A Commercial Product... 58
Adulteration of ........... 54
American, in Europe ..... 46

Ancient History of..... 11, 157
As Food.............

As Medicine .
‘Assort and Grade.
Best Packages for.

. 46 to 56
Creating a Demand ... .52, 135
For Sauce.......... abs

Granulation of
Handling and Shipping...
Home Markets for
How to make it a BABE as

Management of.. 47, 51
Marketinz z wa 47
Nature of 17

No Over-production of.. 58
Preparation of ............ 179

Production and Care.45 to 58
Qualities of 1
Ripening of.. ts
Sources of ...... ..........
Style most Important..... 45
Un-glassed Secticns for... 49
Varied Prices fcr. .
Why Eat Honey?

HONEY EXTRACTOR. .
Always Essential ... .....
Comb Basket for
Comb Holder for..
Essential Points in..

History of 89
When and How to Use. We 93
HONEY KNIVES.........§ 91,92, 94
Honey LOCUST....... 108, aes 107

Quality of Honey trom... 107
HONEY AND BEE SHOWS—

Bees an Attraction at
Building for.
Display ‘at Fairs.
136, 138, 139 .

In California.
Canada..... Saf
Fngland.................
Europe..
Scotland...

Observatory Hives. ... 188
Premiums at............... 136
Public Manipulations ..... 155

Tent for Exhibition.135 to 138
INCREASE—

By Division...

By Nuclei......

By Un bts
ITALIAN BEEsS..

ed
Careful pene necessary 1a

Gold Colored............... 13:

Improvement in... .. aie ede
Queens Easily Found...... 60
Superiority of ............. 59

ITALIANIZING an ADEE PAGE
.. 59

Benefits of 5

How to be Done. . 60
JUDAS TREE) v2 23 vases sein doe 129
LANGSTROTH Frame and Hive 36
LARV OF THE BEE...... 13 to 19

Laying Workers........... 71
Location — Changing and

Marlen Brive case ss saecieieacs os

Of an Apiary. -

LUCK OR SCIENCE.
MANDIBLE OF QUE
MAPLES......
MARKETING HONEY
Attractive Packages...
Best Methods for.......... :
Candied Honey inComb.. 51
Crocks for Extracted
Glassing Sections..... isp
Glass Jars..........-....... bt
Grading and Shipping 46,47, 52
Granulation of........... de
Handling and Shipping
Hard-Wood Barrels
Honey as a Commercial
Produ’ icicsies scan

Kegs, the Most Desirable.
Local Markets for.........
Management of Comb....

Of Extracted ..........

Metal Corners tor Ciates..
Must be Ripened..........
Packages for Retail........ 5:
Points to be Considered... 45
Preparation for Market. 45, 181
Screw-top Cans...... 2 08
Single Comb Section
Ship AND sions scemtion a3 x
Small Pacicag es Gicak atte
Tin Pails for... ...........

MIGNONETTE ..........

Morn, Destruction of. 4

MOTHERWORT....... 118, 130
MOVING BEEs.. 29, 31
MUSTARD. “474, 123), 150

NATURAL History of Bees..
NATURAL SwarMs—Care of .

How to Prevent them.....
NucLEus CoLony—cuare of
PEPPERMINT
POLLEN, or Bee Bread........
PRODUCTION of WAX..........
PROPOLIS, or Bee Glue....24,

Removing from Hands ...

QUEEN CELLS ...23, 62, 63, 67, 96
1

Engratting................. 51
Introduction of. .62, 67
QUEEN Nursery... we 66
QUEEN REARING .. L.. 66
QUEENLESSNESS... ........69, 70

BEE CULTURE,

PAGE
QUEENS occ sneered 13, 1t
Accompanies aSwarm.

A Prolific Queen should

always bein the Hive. 69
Cages .......0- 02.0224 86,
Clipping a Queen's w ae 68, 75
Davis’ Queen Nurscry 66
Destroying Her AY a s.... 68
Development of 63, 66
Drone Laying. . aan oS
Eggs and Brood. .19, 33
Head of ............ siig alee
How to Rear the Best.131, 134
Introducing... ...60,85, 86, 87
Introducing Cages . 86) 87
Laying of........ 16
Mandibles of .
Mating of....
Ovaries of...
Piping of.....
Silece Cells..
Shipping of..
Sting of......
RACES OF BEES . sa
RED CLOVER.............-2606- 130
REGISTERING SLATES......... 67
REVOLVING FRAME HOLDER.. 89
ROBBING wocaweanicig.cires se antes 80
RUBBER SPRINKLER for wal
ing out Brood.. 15
Saw, for Hive Makin . +
SECTIONS FOR CoMB HONEY.. 39
Arrangement of....... ... 38
Cases for Holding. . 49
Comb Honey Rack, for... 37
Crate LOM wicis seisesg nes ssteescs 41
Dovetailed. 39
Glassing of 57
How to get the best....... 39
How to place on Hive.. 38
Nailed —...... 39
One-Piece.................- 40
Single Comb Desirable.... 39
Sizes of Popular ones..... 49
Supers for Sections ....37, 38
Tin Points for G lassing. 42, 57
Tool for Glassing.......... 58
SEPARATORS—How Used.. 38
‘ SHIPPING CRATES............. 41
SMOKERS—How used.......... 84

SHIPPING QUEENS AND COLO-
NIEB se 2caa acne .. 76,

Sourwoon ..

SPIDER PLANT..

; 3,
h Atomizer

SPRAYING BEES: 62
paaea an Apiary.......... 25
STINGS sci acuiauannaceae aoce 83.
SWEET CLOVER (melilot). “108, 130

189
PAGE
SWARMS AND SWARMING 67,68, 69
Atter-Swurms ..........06. 68
Best Methods of ANCreNse
67, 149, 150, 151........ a2
C aptur TID cated igs acre sctevecsircd BO, TO
Cateher and pice and
Drone Trap.. .78to 80
Hiving Swarms............ 69
Made by Dividing...149 to 151
Managementof............ 69
Non-swarming attachment 78
Nuclei—how made ..... G4, 150
“Old Fogy”’ eee Fanner 69
Prevented . .. 68, 153
Purchasing .. abbas. women 30
Separating. .............2.. 78
Swarm Catcher. .79, 80
Uniting .. fe
Tin Pornts to Glass Sections. 42
TRANSFERRING BFUS.......72, 73
Frame of Comb ........... ae
From Box Hives........... a
From Frame Hives........ TA
Wired Sticks for........... 73
TRANSFORMATION OF INSECTS 9
TULIP OR POPLAR....105, 106, 129
UniT1nG Weak Colonies...74, 78
VALENTINE’'S Frame Stand... 61
Wax—how produced....... 20, 97
WAX EXTRACTORS ........- 99
Wax—see Beeswax..... 20, 25, 99
WHITE (or Dutch) Clover...

WILLOWS . wees es LOG,
WINTERING “Bers—

Amountof honey required 145
Bee House for......... 145, 146
Burying in a Cave 146
Causes of Disaster 141
Chaff hive and packing 142, 143
Comparing Methods....... 143
Double-walled Hives for.. 142
Te Cellars aisiscsciicreasiccewnee 0 14+
TO Russias a. ose sins sis.speresisss 141
On Summer Stands........ 143
Winter Passages........... 144
When to put into Winter
-Quarters ......-........ 144
WORKER BEES—
Anterior Leg of............ 19
re aaa OP ss sisi eres 19
COIS Ob eensie -psisrusicrarsisieiageizie!s ae 23
Functions of.. 19
pe d of..... - 18
aying
Legs of 70
Length of 18
Ovaries of ...... Zl

Pollen Baskets...

190

BEE CULTURE.

INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
Alighting Board tor Hes 37
Allen, Dr. N. P.. 67
‘Alsike Clover... 00... 0.cccceeee 111

Alsike Clover, lioot and Crown. 112
Andrews, W.II.. ....... --.e- ee 31
Andrews, Wh. Ji sess is acecawuie

Anterior Leg of Workcer........
Apiary of K. Armstrong

Apiary of Mons. Bertrand.. 24
Apiary of Mons. De Lay: ens . 46
Apiary of Mr. Robertson........ 10
Apiary of Sig. Bianchi.......... 25
Apiary of Siz. Florini........... 132
Apiary on the St. Lawrence. . 103
Apis Dorsata........... A; 133
Atomizer for Spraying Bees.. 62
Bacconia Japonica ..... 1.0.6... 8
Bailey’s Swarm Catcher ........ 79g

Bases and cross-sections of cells 95
Basswood Leat and B.ossom.... 104
Basswood or Linden........ 104, 170
Bee - Exhibit enclosed with
N Ct bi Bate iess cia nieraiapanethescss da een

Hee Ensue showing Hivgrante
ak

Tu
oe peadon (fustings’)
Bee-Stand for use in Summer

and Winter ........ ....... 58
Bec-Sting (sectional view).. 83
Bee-Tent for Fairs 135

Bee-Tent near Column Vase ... 138
BOG-V Cilliees seccoeieice ees vn eoacnie 85, Ot
Berlepsch, Baron ... 12
Bingham Bee-Smokcr. 84
Bingham Honey- alaibee 92
Bingham, 7. F. . 13
Borage 59
Brood-Comb with Queen-Cells.. 151
Buckwheat, in bloom 114
WBA Seo sissctcatape cecauh Marna atts 62

Comb Foundation ..............-
Comb Foundation Mill...
Comb Honey Rack

Comb Honey—Wide Frame for. 42
Combs built by Apis Dorsata... 131
Cook, Prof. A. J. ........... 11
Cook's Observation Hive. 35
Crate for 1-pound Sections 41
Cross-Sections of Cells .......... 95
Cyprus Apiary of Mr, Benton .. 141
Dadant, Charles. ............... 35
Vadant CO. Pi sasayircsmcave 30
Diamond Ribbon Flower bed... 124
Dibbern's Hive-Hook... . ..... 94
Division-Board ............. 64

Division-Board Bee-Feede
Doolittle, GM

Drone and Queen-Trap

Drone-Bee .............. 16
Drone-Excluder .... vie 4S
Dzierzon, Rev. Dr. .......... pas LOL
Eggs and Drood...............0005 19

Fair Exhibition of Bees....136—139

Fastening Foundation in the
Sections ..,...........2.+...98, 101
Figwort . 156

Filaree of California

Finished Qucen-Cell...

Floral Column for J or
Driveway .... 0.0... By denies 120

BEE CULTURK.

Floral Lawn...
Floral Window ...
Fiower Beds,round
Foot-Power Saw....
Foundation Fastene
Foundation Fastener.
Foundation Wiring-T
Foeplove, pretty bi
ove, pretty but p
f'Brood —all kinds .

191

PAQGK
36

Magnifier, Triple-Lense. ieeO2
French straw-hive or “Eke’’ .. 102 | Mammoth Mignonette.......... LB,
‘ Mandible of Queen (magnified). 60
Giant Mignonette ............... 127 | Manum’s swarming apparatus. 79
Given Foundation Press . 95 | Marigolds.............-...... 00. 130
Glands in Bees ..... aysiae a0 26 | Mason, Dr. A. B. .. 30
Glassed Honey-Sectious 38 | McLain, Prof. N. W. 48
Glass Honey Jars....... .. 54 | Metal Corners for the Covers of
Glass Pail for Honey . 94 Me Cratcs
Goldenrod «2 :,.:.5:.6% 408206520 ees 128 TIONELLE 0.0103 a ceeinsad exes
Goodrich Eun Fastener. 101 aitier, DY; Ci Ciacci werquccs
Gravenhorst, C.J. H............. 20. | Mint... ieemessesricnantsw
Grimm, Adam ......... ......... 161 Mothoe eon es cesveners enbaite
Grooved Boerd for Cutting MStALGS:: 2osccenastesatees sateen
Starters) cc ssiseccess cocveniaaee 102 Muth, Charles F. ................ 27
Muth’ Honey-Krife.............. 92
Halas, J. Bcwgoces diwscsawestnne
Harmer’s Apiary . 6 Newman, Thomas G............. 2
Harmer'’s Observation flv: es 3d Z
Hastings’ Queen-C aES): -. 88] Oatman Queen-Cage ............ 86
Head of Queen ...... -. 14] Observation Hive—Cook........ 34
Head of the Drone . - 17] Observation Hive--Harmer.... 34
Head of Worker-Bee . - 18] Observation Hive—Worrall .... +34
Heddon's Non-Swarmer. . 78] One-Piece Honey Section....... 40
Hetherington, Capt. J. E.. .. 13] Ornamental Comb Honey ...... 95
Hill’s Swarm-Catcher ... .. 801 Ovaries of a Laying Worker.... 71
Hilton, George E. .. . 179 | Ovaries of the Queen............ 15
Hive-scraper. au aetameas se OD >
Hive with Chaff- 3. pacman : .. 143 | Parker Foundation Fastener... 101
Holtermann, R. F. . .. 27] Part ofa Frame of Brood....... 23
Honey-Board . 87, 94 ee Apiary of the Khedive
Honey-Carriage . ae O48] OR BBY Pe cece ccewan co rirecceneee 3
Houey-Comb ....... - 96 Pavilion at Paris Exposition. ... 139
Honey-Comb Coral.............. _ 38] Plan foran Apiary.............. 31
Honey Evaporator (mude or Plan of an Austrahan Apiar. se 26
galvanized iron).............-. Pliers for Handling mes. 44
Honey-Evaporator (wood) Portrait of the Author..........
Honey-Extractor... . ..........
Honey-Locust .- arene seed). “ Suet oe (magnified) .......... 14
Honey-Locust ueen Cages for shipping and
Honey Sections. eee = introducing ....-..........-... 86
Honey show-case for stores . .. Queen-Cell (ripe) 96
House for Bee-Exhibits at aaa 136° ueen-CellS .........5 cee eee . 96
Huber, CIS essex: oe a | Queen-Excluding Zinc.......... 102
Hunter, Jobn ... ay Queen-Nursery ..........---.-00+ 66
Hutchinson, W. Z.- 39 | Queen-Register (Cards).......... Gt
Queen-Registering Slate........ 67
Introducing Queen- Cage......-. 86 | Queen, Workers and Drones...._ 6
Italian Bees... ........ woe. 01 Quinby, MOSOS o-eceaeasy sees aoe 146
italian Worker Bee q
. | Rack for Comb Honey..... .... 43
Regs for TIOGGy 2. 22 ccs ceneesas s BD-| Hayidees yo or soneweasows s ove penne 156

192

Red Clover (root and crown)....
Reese's Bee-Escape............
Respiratory Oras of the Bee.
Reversible Brcod-Framc....... 44

Revolving Frame Holder .... 88
Ripe Qneen-Cell................. 63
Roese, Rey. Stephen ........ 48
ROO ts Aas sczten: Geer: te agerseeinie: “ost 318 39
Round Ribbon Flower Bed...... 124
Rubber Sprinkler .............. 75
Rush, Drs We Bie sscscceaeesomesd o3 154
Russell's Bee-Escapc.........-.. 44
Scotch Heather.................. 169
Scarching for Apis Dorsata .... 133
Secor, Hon. Eugene ............ 140
SCCHOM “PUOSS aa jayicese niece vteecsic merous 43
Sections for Honey.............. 38
Shipping crate for 12 1-pound

sections of honey
Shipping crate for 24 1-pound

sections of honey..............
Shipping Crate for 12 2

Sections of Honey
Shuck Bee-Feeder...........
Smali-Piece Comb-Holder ..
Solar Wax-Extractor........ Be
SOUPWOOd 25. os vance catenin ee 8
Square Tin Cans for shipping

xtracted Honey.............. 55
Stingless Bees............. 2... 131
Story for wide frames with

BOPRLALONB as i6cc aes arnsieacaees 2

Super for 1-pound Scctious .
Super for 2-pound Sections . 42,
Super for sections without

BEPALAtOPS) ccc ns pis sescticwier edie 40
Surface Queen-Cage 86
Swammerdam............. ne
Swarm-Catcher.................. 79

BEE CULTURE.

Sweet Clover Bloom.............

Tapering Pails for Honey 53
Taylor, Hon. KR. L. . 140
WPORSOL ajors ainarssenvnvearne Senate ob 8

Tin Pailsand Cansfor Honey,53, 55
Tin Pails for Hone 53

Tin Points for glassing Sections 44
Todd, Arthur
Tongue of the Honey-Bee .
Tool for glassing Sections .
Transferring-Board
Tulip or Poplar Blossom...

Two-pound Sections (nailed)... :

Uncapping Machine ............ 66
Valentine Frame-Stand......... 61
Wax-Extractor............... 88, 99
Wax-Segments of Worker. ...._ 20
Western Apiary ... 180
White or Dutch Clover ......... 113
Wide Frame for 2-lb, sections... 42

Wide Frame for 8 1-lb. sections 42
Wide Frames for 8 1-lb.Sections 49
Wide Frames for 2-lb. Sections 40
WVU OW oieed asa isccrscesSietare syed abiceega ante ons bee 156
Winter Bec-House..... ... a
Winter-Packed Bee-Hive
Wired Sticks for Transferring. .
Wiring-Tool for Foundation..

102
Wood-Zinc slatted Honey-Board 87
Worker-Bee (magnified) 18

Worrall’s Observation Hive.... 35
Youngman, 8. J. .!....... . 179
Yucca Brush. ..... 94
Zine Queen-Excluder ........... 102

BOOKS FOR BEE-KEEPERS,

Sent by mail, postpaid, on receipt of the prices named.
10:

Bee-Keepers’ Guide, or Manual of the Apiary, by Pror. A. J.
Coox.—Profusely illustrated, and fully up with the times on every
subject that interests the bee-keeper. It is not only instructive, but
interesting and thoroughly practical. It comprises a full delineation
of the anatomy and physiology of the Honey-Bee. Price, $1.50.

Quinby’s New Bee-Keeping, by L. C. Root,—Its style is plain
and forcible, making all its readers sensible of the fact that its author
is master of the subject. Price, $1.50.

A BC of Bee-Culture. by A. I. Root.—Embraces everything per-
taining to the care ot the Honey-Bee, and is valuable to the more ad-
vanced bee-keeper, as well us the beginner. Cloth, $1.25.

Blessed Bees, by JOHN ALLEV,—A romance of bee-keeping, full of
practical information and contagious enthusiasm. Price, 75 cts.

Langstroth Revised by Cu. DADANT & SON.—550 pages : 18 plates.
An entirely new work, and fully up with the times. Price, $2.00.

Kendall’s Horse Book.—It has 35 engravings, illustrating posi-
tions of sick horses, and treats all diseases in a comprehensive manuer,
It has many good recipeg. Price 25c., in either English or German.

A Year Among the Bees, by Dr.C.C. MILLER.—A talk about
the implements and methods of a bee-keeper of 25 years’ experience,
who has made honey-production his exclusive business. Price, 50 cts.

Foul Brood—Its Cause and Cure, by Pror. FRANK R. CHESHIRE,
of London, England.—This describes his experiments with the use of
Phenol for the cure of diseases of bees, It_is the work of a master
mind, and full of very interesting matter. Price, 10 cents.

Bec-Kecpers’? Handy-Book, by HEXRY ALLEY.—270 pages, and
is a complete manual of bee-keeping. It gives his methods of Queen-
Rearing practiced for 22 years. - Price, $1.00.

The Hive I Use, by G. M. DoOLITTLE.—It details his management
of Bees, and minutely describes his methods for the production and
care of comb honey ; management of weak colonies ; how to control
swarming; how to get the largest yield of honey, etc, Price, 5 cents.

The Production of Comb Honey, by W. Z. HurcHinson.—It
discusses the use of Comb Foundation—when, where and how to use it,
ete. Price, 25 cents.

Foul Brood, by A R, Kounxe.—It gives the origin, development,
and cure of this bee-disease,as taught by experiments of the most
noted scientists and apiarists of Germany.—Price, 25 cents. -

Practical Tarkey Rearing, by FANNY FIELD, the most experi-
enced turkey-rearer in America. Written expressly for those who are
interested in making the business profitable. Price, 25 cents.

Success in Bee-Culture, as practiced and advised by JAMES
HEDvON, This book is intended for specialists and those who keep
bees for the profits of the business. Price, 50 cents. -

How to Produce Comb Honey, by O. Foster.—It describes his

methods resulting from 10 years’ practical work and experiments in
the apiary. Price, 5 cents,

THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,
246 East Madison Street, - CHICAGO, ILL.

BOOKS FOR BEE-KEEPERS.

Sent by mail, postpaid, on receipt of the prices named.
—:0:—

Bees and Honey, or Management of an Apiary for Pleasure and
Profit, by THomas G. NEWMAN.—It is ‘‘fully up with the times,” in all
the various improvements and inventions in this rapidly-developing
pursuit, and presents the apiarist with everything that can aid in the
successful management of the honey bee, and at the same time produce
the most honey inits best and most attractive condition. ‘It embraces
the following subjects: Ancient History of Bees and Honey—Locating
an Apiary— Transferring— Feeding— Swarming— Dividing—Extracting
—Queen Rearing—Introducing Queens—Italianizing—Bee Pasturage a
Necessity—Quieting and Handling Bees—The Management of Bees and
Honey at Fairs—Marxeting Honey,etc. 2% profusely-illustrated pages.
Price, in cloth binding, $1.00.

Apiary Register, by THomAs G. NEWMAN.—This is a Record and
Account Book for the Apiary, devoting two pages to each colony, ruled
and printed, and is so arranged that 2 mere glance will give its complete
history. Strongly bound in full leather. Price, for 50 cvlonies, $1.003
for 100 colonies, $1.253 for 200 colonies, $1.50.

Honey as Food and Medicine, by THomAs G. NEWMAN.—It gives
the various uses of Honey as Food; recipes for making Honey Cakes,
Cookies, Puddings, Foam, Wines, etc. Also, Honey as Medicine, with
many valuable recipes. It is intended for consumers, and should be
liberally scattered to help in creating a demand for honey. Price, for
either the English or German edition, 5 cents—one dozen, 40 cents—
100 for $2.50—500 for $10.00—1,000 for $15.00. When 100 or more are
ordered, we will print the bee-keeper’s card (free of cost) on the cover.

Bee-Keepers’ Convention Hand Book, by THomAs G. NewMAn.

It contains a simple Manual of Parliamentary Law and Rules of Order,

for the guidance of officers and members of Local Conventions—

Mode! Constitution.and By-Laws for a Local Society—Programme for a

_ Convention, with Subjects for Discussion—List of Premiums for Fairs,
etc. Bound in cloth, and suitable for the Pocket. Price, 50 cents.

Preparation of Honey for the Market, including the production
and care of both Comb and Extracted Honey, and Instructions on the
Exhibition of Bees and Honcy at Fairs, etc., by THOMAS G. NEWMAN.
This is a chapter from “‘ Bees and Honey.” Price, 10e.

Swarming, Dividing and Feeding Bees.—Hints to Beginners,
by THOMAS G. NEWMAN. A chapter from‘ Bees and Honey.” Price 5c.

Bee Pasturage a Necessity, by THOMAS G. NEWMAN—Progress:ve
views on this important subject; suggesting what and how to plant.—
A chapter from‘ Bees and Honey.” 26 engravings. Price, 10c.

Bees in Winter, by THoMAS G. NEWMAN.— Describing Chaff-packing,
Cellars and Bee Houses. A chapter from‘ Bees and Honey.’ Price 5e.

Bienen Kultur, by THomas G. NEWMAN.—In the German. Price.
in paper covers, 40 cents, or $3 per doz.

Scribner’s Lumber and Loz Book.—Gives measurement of all

kinds of lumber, logs and planks; wages, rent, etc. Price, 35e.

Fisher’s Grain Tables.—For casting up grain, produce and hay;
wood measurer, ready reckoner, plowing tables, etc. Price, 40c.

Hand-Book of Health, by Dr. Foote.—Rules for eating, drinking,
sleeping, bathing, working, dressing, ctc. Price, 25c.
THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,
246 East Madison Street, - CHICAGO, ILL,

BOOKS FOR BEE-KEEPERS,

Sent by mail, postpaid, on receipt of the prices named.
—:0:—

Honey Almanac—to create a demand for Honey
at home. Bee-keepers should scatter it freely. It shows the uses
of Honey for Medicine, Eating, Deny Cooking, for making Cos-
metics, Vinegar, etc.; also uses of BH. SWAX., Price, 5 cts.; 25
copies for $1.10; 50 for $1.70; 75 for $2.80; 100 for $2.90. The
foregoing are PostTparp prices; the following are prices when sent
by Express or Freight: 100 copies for $2.50; 500 for $10.00;
1,000 for $15.00. The Bee-Keeper’s CARD will be printed on the
first page without extra cost, when 25 or more are ordered at once.

Scientific Queen-Rearing, as Practically Applied, by G. M. Doo-
LITTLE. The author details the results of his experiments in the
Rearing of Queen-Bees for the past five years, and is the first to present
his great discoveries to the world. Price, $1.00.

Silo and Silage, by Pror. A. J. Cook, contains a plain statement
of the method in very successful operation at the Michigan Agricultu-
ral College. Price, 25 cents.

Handling Bees, by CHas. DAapant & Son. Itisa Pampitlet of 28
pages, being a chapter from ‘‘ Langstroth Revised,” and is an excellent
thing for beginners. Price, 8 cents.

Peerless Atlas of the World. Size, open, 14x22 inches; closed,
14x11 inches. Asaconcise and intelligent epitome of the World, it is
equal to any $10.00 Atlas. It contains handsome, colored maps of all
countries, and a general description of them—about 100 pages. This
Atlas, with the American Bee Journal for one year, both for $1.60;
or it is sent post-paid to any address for 75 cents.

Maple Sugar and the Sugar Bush, by PRor. A. J. Cook, tells all
about making the best Maple Syrup and Sugar. Price, 40 cents.

Why Eat Honey? (Leaflet No. 1), by THomasG. NEWMAN. This
Leaflet is intended for distribution in the bee-keeper’s own locality, in
order to create a Local Market. Price, 100 copies, 50 cents; for 500,
$2.00 ; for 1,000, $3.25.

w@ If 200 or more are ordered at one time, we will print on them
the honey-producer’s name and address FREE.

Alsike Clover, (Leaflet No. 2). This is intended to induce farmers
to plant Alsike Clover for pasturage and hay, and thereby improve the
neighborhood for bee-forage. Prices same as Leaflet No, 1.

How to Keep Honey, (Leaflet No. 3), by THomas G. NEWMAN.—
This Leaflet is designed to inform: producers, dealers and consumers
How to Keep Honey, so as to preserve its richness and flavor, and
prevent deterioration by being storedin damp and unclean places.
Prices the same as Leaflet No. 1.

A BC of Carp-Calture, by M. P. PrrrRcE.—It explains the cheapest
and most effective system of carp-culture. Price, 40 cents.

ABC of Potato-Culture, by T. B. TERRY.—How to grow them in
the largest quantity,and of the finest quality, with the least expenditure
of time and labor, Price, 40 cents. ~

How I Produce Comb Honey, by Gxo. E, Hitton,—Ten years’
experience, Price, 5 cents,

THOS. G. NEWMAN & SON,
246 East Madison Street, - - = = CHICAGO, ILL.

[ESTABLISHED IN 1864.]

Bem SUPPLIES

AT WHOLESALE AND RETAIL,
Everything Needed in the Apiary of Practical
Construction at the Lowest Price.

SATISFACTION GUARANTEED.

We have the largest steam-power shops, exclusively used for the
manufacture of all kinds of Bee-Keepers’ Supplies in the West. Send
your address on a postal card and we will send you free our Illustruted

Catalogue.
E. KRETCHMER, Red Oak, Towa.

BEE-HIVES
=4 SECTIONS, ETC.

We make the best Bee-Hives, Shipping-Crates, Sections, &c., in the
World, and sell them the cheapest. Catalogues free, but sent only when
ordered. Address,

G. B. Lewis & Co., Watertown, Wis.

ELECTROTYPES

OF ANY OF THE

ENGRAVINGS

Used in this Book or the Bee Journal, for sule at 25 cents per square
nch. No single cut sold for less than 25 cents.

THOS. G. NEWMAN & SON, 246 East Madison St., Chicago, Ills.

On receipt of the above price,

SMOKERS *° KNIVES,

Z Will be sent post-paid. Descriptive Circulars will
ae be sent on receipt of request card.

Bingham & Hetherington Smokers are staple tools, and have been
used 12 years without complaint, and are the only stove-wood, clear-
smoke Bee-Smokers. No giving out—no fussing—no going out—no
vexation, BINGHAM & HETHERINGTON, Abronia, Mich,

A* BEAUTIFUL * MONTHLY # MAGAZINE

Printed in the Dighost stylo of the art, and profusely embellished
with Magnificent and costly Engraving

(NV

=A
FOR HOMES

SACISTUL

ONE DOLLAR a Year. Sample Copy Free

The ILLUSTRATED HOME JOURNAL is a high-toned, moral and intellec-
tual Educator, invaluable in every Library, and avery attractive and
inspiring ornament in every Drawing-Room.

Read what Representative Men say of it:

The Illustrated Home Journal is simply superb, as a specimen of
typographical execution. As a journal for the home it is first-
class, clean. interesting, and instructive—not only an ornament to
the library or drawing-room table, but a means of giving to many
homes a much-needed source of amusement, as well as instruction,
both moral and secular. J. E, Ponp.

It is full of choice and instructive reading-matter for the family.
It is deserving of a wide circulation, for it stands second to none of

the popular monthlies. Dr. G. L. TrngeEr.
The Illustrated Home Journal is indeed very nice, and after
having seen it, we want it regularly. Cuas. Dapant & Son.

Your beautiful Home Journal is received. I take great pleasure
in welcoming such a clean, healthy and instructive journal (as it is)

into my home. Dr. S. W. Morrison.
The paper, typography, illustrations and matter are first-class.
It will be a welcome visitor at our house. Dr. A. B. Mason.

Its illustrations are fine, and its contents worth many times its
cost. As a Magazine for Ladies, it takes the lead. J. M. Youna.
The Illustrated Home Journal is a gem of the first water—
appreciated as soon as seen. J M. Sxauck.
It is a Magazine that should be found in the homes of all who
desire a paper that gives instruction, and its articles are of such a
nature that they cannot fail to please all. H H. Brown.
It is read and re-read—its contents well noted, and then loaned
to a neighbor. We wish it success, and predict for it a glorious
future. Mrs. L. Harrison.

It will be Clubbed with the AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL and both mailed
to any address in the United States or Canada, one year, for $1.75.

THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON, Publishers,

246 East Madison Street, CHICAGO, ILL.

LOMB FOUNDATION,

olesale and Retail.

‘‘ILangstroth on the Honey-Bee’’ Revised.—The book
for beginners; the most complete text-book on the
subject in the English language.
Price, $2.00.

Bee-Veils of Imported Material, Smokers, Sections, Honey-
Pails, and Bee-Keepers’ Supplies.
PAMPHLET ON “HANDLING BEES’-S CTS.

Advice to beginners, Circulars, Samples, etc., free.
Send your address on a postal card to

CHAS. DADANT & SON,

HAMILTON, Hancock Co., ILL.

NEW BEE VEIL.

— There are five cross bars united by a rivet
; through their center at the top. These bars are
é ay buttoned on to studs on the neck-band. The bars
Y are of best light spring steel; the neck-band of
best hard spring brass ; the cover is of handsome

light material. Itis very easily epee together, no

gy trouble to put on or take off, an folds compact-

ly in a paper box 6x7 inches by one inch deep.

There would be no discomfort in wearing it either
day or night, and the protection against Mosqui-
toes, plies. Bees, Gnats, etc., is perfect; the

weight of the entire Veil being only five ounces.

Price, by Mail or Express, $1.00.

THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,
246 East Madison Street, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

“A YEAR AMONG THE BEES.”

—— BEING ——

.L talk about some of the Implements, Plans and Practices of a
Bee-Keeper of 25 years’ experience, whu has for 8
years made the Production of Honey
his Exclusive Business.

By Dr. C. C. MILLER.

Its descriptions commence with the necessary work in
the spring, and run through the entire Year, detailing the
methods of doing, as well as telling when to do, all that
should be done in the apiary. It contains 114 pages, and
is nicely bound in cloth.

Price, 50 Cents, by mail ; or it will be Clubbed with the
American Bee Journal for one year, for only $1.35.

We will send the Book, and the Bee Journal and Home
Journal, one year each, all for $2.20.

THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,

246 East Madison Street, — CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

SCIENTIFIC QUEEN-REARING,

AS PRACTICALLY APPLIED;

Being a Method by which the best of Queem-Bees are reared
in perfect accord with Nature’s Ways, by

G. M. DOOLITTIie,

Borodino, N. Y.

In this book the author details the results of his Experiments in
Rearing Queen-Bees for the past four or five years, and is the first
to present his valuable discoveries to the World.

Pound in Cloth—182 pages—Price, $1.00, postpaid.

we Or, it will be Clubbed with the American Bee Jour
one year, for $1.75—with Home Journal for $1.75.
Or the two Journals and Book for $2.50.

THOMAS G. NEWMAN & SON,
246 East Madison Street, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

BARNES’ PATENT

FOOT & STEAM POWER MACHINERY.

Complete outfits for Actual Workshop Business. Lathes
for Wood or Metal, Circular Saws, Scroll Saws, Formers,
Mortisers, Tenoners, etc.

WILL SEND MACHINES ON TRIAL IF DESIRED.
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Every Bee-Keeper should have one of these Machines for Hive-Making.

S. Woodburn. Dickinson, Pa., says: ‘‘ After a trial of three
months Iam well pleased with the Combined Machine. I have
made 50 hives complete, besides several hundred frames.”’

We willsend our Illustrated Catalogue FREE on application.
Say where yon read this, and address

W. F. & JOHN BARNES,
No. 2083 Main Street, Pockford, Winnebago Co. Ils.

J. M. KINZIF,

MANUFACTURER OF

Chaff Hives, Single Boarded Ilives,

ONE-PIECE V-GROOVE SECTIONS,

Comb Foundation, Shipping Crates, and Dealer in Queens,
Bees and Honey. Price-List Free.

Rochester, Oakland Co., Mich.

NEW YORE. NEW JERSEY.
y Foreign Orders Solicited.

Eastern Depot!
SHBEES+ SS QUEENS#+

Everything Used by Bee-Keepers.

Exclusive Manufacturer of

The Stanley Automatic Honey-Extractor,

Dadant’s
Foundation
Wholesale and
Retail.

White Poplar or Basswood Sections,

One-Piece, Dovetail, or to nail. Any quantity }
—any size. Complete Machinery—Finest work.
Send for Handsome Illustrated Catalogue free,
E. R. NEWCOMB,
PLEASANT VALLEY, Dutchess Co., N. Y.

tl :
i nl ;

MASSACHUSETTS. com NECTICUT.
ow. COSTELLOW,

Waterboro, York Co., Maine,
Manufacturer of

BEE-HIVES, SECTIONS, GRATES,

ETC.,
AND DEALER IN A FULL LINE OF

Supplies for Bee-Keeping, Bees, Queens and Honey;

Makes a Specialty of Fine and Accurate Workmanship on Wood-
work for bee-keeping. Send for free Catalogue and estimates,

A. I, i,

PUBLISHER OF

GLEANINGS IN BEE-CULTURE

A SEMI-MONTHLY

Of 36 pages, with a subscription-list of over 8,000. Each issue is
handsomely illustrated with original engravings. Its corps
of contributors comprises the most successful
Bee-keepers from all parts of the world.

Price, $1.00 Per Year.

WE ARE ALSO DEALERS IN

APIARIAN SUPPLIES,

Such as BEES, HONEY, HIVES, ete.

We annually manufacture about 20,000 Hives, millions of Section
Honey-Boxes, tons of Comb Foundation, Honey-Extractors, besides
enormous quantities of Bee-Supplies in general.

WE ARE ALSO PUBLISHERS OF THE

AB C OF BEE - CULTURE,

A Cyclopedia of 400 Pages.

It is handsomely illustrated with 300 engravings. It is written
especially for beginners. The 38th thousand now out.
Price, in cloth, $1.25, postpaid.

A. I. ROOT, MEDINA, Medina Co., OHIO.

MUTIHS GLASS HONEY JARS.

Our 1 and 2 pound square HONEY JARS have now been tested for
tone and have not only proved a success, but we havo added to them
alf-pound and Dime Jars, which cannot be excelled for neatness,

btiCes FM
CINGINNATIC i 4
Saeed

1D
g,

As Jars of honey are court bought for table use, the best honey
only should be bottled. A neat label on each Jar, with the producer’s
name plainly printed, will often serve as a reminder to the consumer of
the place where the last nice honey was purchased.

MUTH’S HONEY EXTRACTOR

AND UNCAPPING KNIFE

The Extractor is made of all metal. is et
always ready for use, easily cleaned, and& J
will last 4 life-time; in fact, it-has only to
be_used to be appreciated... Every BEE:
KEEPER should a

SEND FOR OUR CIRCULAR,
giving details about the care of bees, and
how to get the most honey.

CHAS. F. MUTH & SON,

Cor. Freeman and Central Aves , CINCINNATI, 0.

Our PAMPHLET entitled
PRACTICAL HINTS TO BEE-
KEEPERS, Will be sent fur 10
cents in postage stumps. SN

The Oldest Weekly Bee-Paper in the World,

THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL,

ESTABLISHED IN 1861,

Is the Recognized Leading Bee-Periodical in America.

ONE DOLLAR A YEAR, IN ADVANCE.
A Sample Copy Free, Upon Application.

The most successful and experienced bee-keepers in the
World comprise its Corps of Contributors, and it is contin-
ually advancing progressive ideas upon the various topics of
modern scientific Bee-Culture.

PUBLISHED BY

THOS, G. NEWMAN & SON,

Madison St., CHICAGO, ILL.,

JOBBERS AND DEALERS IN

BEE-KEEPERS SUPPLIES

INCLUDING

HIVES, SECTIONS,

HONEY & WAX EXTRACTORS, COMB FOUNDATION,
KEGS, PAILS, SEEDS, &c.

Illustrated Catalogue sent free upon application.

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