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ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

New YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HoME ECONOMICS

AT

CORNELL UNIVERSITY

EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS

BEEKEEPING LIBRARY

Cornell University

Library

The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

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SAXTON'S COTTAGE AND FARM LIBRARY.

7O~3 3 m Ayr
COTTAGE BEE KE PER;

OB SUGGESTIONS FOR

THE PRACTICAL MANAGEMENT

OF

Amatenr, Cottage and Farm Aptaries,

ON SCIENTIFIC ‘PRINCIPLES,
WITH AN

APPENDIX OF NOTES, CHIEFLY ILLUSTRATIVE,

BY A COUNTRY, CURATBrs 6 TPS; 4

CLARKE Os ae

“Tollite barbarum morem.”

NEW YORK:

Cc. M. SAXTON, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER,
No. 152 Fulton Street.

M DCCO. LI,

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by
C. M. SAXTON, :

in the Clerk’s office of the District Court for the Southern District
of New York.

Rn

E. 0, JENKINS, printer.

ADVERTISEMENT.

Tue subscriber takes great pleasure in offering the present little
volume, as the first of the series, entitled “‘Saxton’s Farm and
Cottage Library,” to the patronage of the public, in the belief
that it will satisfy all the reasonable expectations of the American
bee keeper, who, it is hoped, will derive many a useful hint in this
interesting branch of knowledge, and will be amply remunerated for
his pains.

The object of this series is to present, in a cheap and popular
form, short and concise treatises on Bees, Rabbits, Pigéons, Birds,
Flowers, Fruits, Sweet and Culinary Herbs, Recipes for Cooking, and
numerous other subjects appertaining to domestic and rural economy,
adapted to the taste and capacity of the amateur, the farmer and the
gardener.

Neither labor nor expense will be spared in getting up these
treatises, in making them correct, and appropriately illustrating them
wherever the subject may demand.

C. M. SAXTON,
AGRICULTURAL Book PusuisuEr, New York.

152 Fuuron Street.

PREFACE.

Ir will naturally be expected by every one who hears of the publi-
cation of a new work on bees—in the face of the many excellent
treatises already extant, some of which liave opened to us many mar-
vels in the natural history, while others have facilitated the profitable
management, of these wonderful insects—either that the adventurous
author has something new to add to the common stock of already
acquired knowledge upon the subject, or that he has, at least, some
satisfactory reasons to allege for intruding himself upon public notice:
seeing that to write a book, for which there is no vacant place on the
library shelf of the apiarian reader, must undoubtedly be considered
a work of no little folly and presumption. Respecting, as he does,
this attitude of very natural expectation on the part of the public, the
author of the ensuing pages would submit the following observations
to the consideration of the candid reader.

In the first place, there is no one but will readily allow that our
knowledge: of bees, scientific or practical, however it mayhave in-
creased of late years, is still limited; or that there is at least room for
improvement. If this admission be made, it at once follows that
there és room for a new work on the subject, however the aparian’s
library may seem at first sight to be complete without it.

The author hopes that so much of novelty will be found in his book

vi PREFACE.

as shall distinguish it from every antecedent bee book, stamp it with
an identity of its own, and make it interesting and acceptable even to
the old-established bee keeper. While, however, some matters in this
book are undoubtedly new, (whether suggestions originating with, or
discoveries and improvements made by, himself,) the author having
made a free use of every available theory, suggestion, or practice,
(from whatever quarter it came,) it follows that the greater part of
the volume is old matter, however it may have assumed a new shape.
His aim has been, first, to recommend a more systematic, and at the
same time improved, method of cottage bee management than at pre-
sent prevails; and, secondly, to invite the attention of amateurs to his
own peculiar plan of managing bees on scientific principles, founded
cn the considerable experience of nearly eight years, assisted by much
thought on the subject; and he belieyes there are many persons, who,
after a due consideration and trial of the system, (artificial though it
may appear,) will approve of it as being both simple and effectual,
and perhaps better calculated than most other systems, (in the hands
of an attentive and intelligent bee keeper,) to give satisfaction, as well
on the ground of economy as of profit.

The fact is, although it may be said with reason that there never
was a time in the whole history of bee-keeping, at least in this coun-
try, when the pursuit has numbered so many votaries as at the pre-
sent moment—and certainly never did success promise so well to the
lover of bees, thanks to the facility with which every kind of informa-
tion on the subject is diffused through the medium of the press—the
author bejeves that the science of practical bee management is yet

but imperfectly developed after all, compared with what it may yet
become, if our apiarians will only give it the time and attention which

it deserves. No practical results, for instance, have proceeded from,
at all commensurate with, the splendid discoveries of Huber, Réau-
mur, and Shirach, relative to the natural history of the bee; and yet

PREFACE. vil

their revelations supply sufficient data upon which a highly scientific
treatment of bees might be established. In this little work will be
found an attempt to bring oyr higher knowledge upon the subject to
bear upon, and improve, the system of bee management actually in
vogue among us. ; .

The few wood cuts, it is hoped, will sufficiently answer their pur-
pose of helping out the instructions of the text. If it be complained
that they are somewhat rude and primitive, the fault is to be attri-
buted to circumstances, not to intention.

Other bee authors, in drawing their labors to a conclusion, have
thought it well to solicit the favor of ingenuous criticism ,;—following
in their steps, as considering that many still hidden truths may yet be
evoked by a spirit of candid inquiry, tending to throw valuable light
on the subject of these pages, the author would also invite the same.

March 29th, 1851.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PRELIMINARY NOTICES, RECOMMENDATORY OF COTTAGE AND AMATEUR BEE-KEEPING.
Page
Origin of the work—The study of bees has a moral tendency—Proper way to encour-
age cattagers in an improved method of managing bees—Opportunities within
teach of the country clergy of furthering this branch of rural economy—Advan-
tage to themselves resulting from it—Peculiar difficulties of English bee keepers—
Attention and perseverance the best remedy against them 1

CHAPTER II.

OF THE ESTABLISHMENT OF AN APIARY—CHOICE OF A SITUATION, AND REQUISITES FOR ITS
WELFARE,

What localities are favorable, or otherwise, to the production of honey—Rules to be
observed—Shelter from high winds and protection against damp—Importance of
coolness of situation—Internal heat alone productiye of prosperity—Pedestals—Im-
portance of ascertaining the weight of every article of bee furniture—Distance at
which hives should stand from each other—Height from the ground—Importance of
water—Danger arising from the neigborhood of ponds or rivers—Vermin and offen-
sive smells to be avoided—Advantage of low shrubs and a screen of trees in front of
the apiary—Proper standing ground—Injury arising from drippings of trees, &¢.—
Apiary should be out of sight of a public highway—But visible from the most fre-
quented partofthe house” - - - - - - = = 7

CHAPTER III.
OF STOCKING THE APIARY, WITH DIRECTIONS FOR THE PURCHASE OF STOCKS AND SWARMS,
Purchase of swarms the cheapest—Best way of commencing an apiary—Proper

weight and time of issue of » swarm—Importance of ascertaining the age
of the queen bee—Swarms from strong two-year-old stocks to be preferred, if they

x CONTENTS.

Page
threw off swarms the previous year—A swarm of the current year, out of a last
year’s swarm, to be rejected—Relative value of swarms and stocks—Purchase of
stocks in spring to be preferred, otherwise in autumn—Precautions against decep-
tion—Rules to be observed in the selection of stocks—Indications of vigor in a
hive—Proper weight—Transporting hives - - - - 18

CHAPTER IV.

OF STRAW COTTAGE HIVES—THEIR SHAPE, SIZE, AND CONSTRUCTION.

The-old fashioned bell hive objectionable—Mr. Payne’s hive most suitable for cot-
tagers—Though too small—Two sizes recommended—Stock hive large, spoliation
hive small—Material and method of construction—Entrance way—Reasons for
approval of large hives - - - x. = os : - 17

CHAPTER V.

THE COTTAGE SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT IN THE OPEN AIR.

Advantage of a bee dress—I, First Year—Propriety of destroying the queen in the
spring if her age exceeds two or three years—Method of returning swarms and
capture of queen—Rising of the prime swarm with a new queen, and treatment of

» it—What if the old queen leads off the swarm—Encouragement ofa large swarm—
Treatment of casts—Excision of royal cells—Supplying hive room—Removal of a
bee glass, how effected—Weighing hives—Proper weight—Making up a deficiency
of food—Sheltering hives from the sun—Wintering bees—Mr. Taylor’s screens—
II. SEconD YEaR—Board cleansing—Excision of mouldy comb—Spring feeding—
Treatment of weak stocks—Swarming—Bee glasses—Super hives—Driving—Mate-
rials for, and manner of conducting the process—Uniting bees—Fumigation—Au-
tumn spoliation of hives—Same stocks to be preserved from year to year—Renewal

of comb—Summary of advantages peculiar to the system recommended in this
chapter - = 7 7 S ie a 20

CHAPTER VI.

HIVES OF STRAW SUITABLE TO AMATEUR BEE MANAGEMENT,

Mr. Golding’s Grecian hive—Its superiority to every other kind of hive—Mr. Tay-
lor’s straw hive—Slight modification of Mr. Golding’s hive—Size too small—Two

sizes recommended—Construction—Painting hives—Boxes unsuitable for the
open air - - - - - - - - 41

CONTENTS,

CHAPTER VII.

THE AMATEUR SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT IN THE OPEN AIR.

Of the depriving system ; unsuitable to out-door apiaries—Plan here recommended to
the amateur not essentially different in its different features to that before detailed
in the fifth chapter—Ilistory of artificial swarming—Dr,. Soudamore—Difficulties
in the way or a general adoption of this method—Proper time for making artificial
swarms—Depends on two things ; state of weather and season, and forwardness
of stock—Importance of waiting till the commencement of the grand honey harvest,
and the considerable appearance of drones—Process of forming artificial swarms
—Treatment of the old stock—No casts to be permitteda—Summer management of
the prime swarm—Arrangement of the hives in an apiary—Preservation of brood
in the autumn—And of comb—Reasons for recommending artificial swarming

CHAPTER VIII.
OF BOXES, ETC., SUITABLE FOR AN IN-DOOR APLARY.

Wooden boxes preferable to straw hives—Construction and quality of wood—Dimen-
sions—Two collateral boxes to one colony sufficient—Plenty of room to be given
in glasses or caps over the stock hive—Adapters—Bars and their arrangement—
Thermometers, how useful, and where to be placed—Guide comb to be affixed to

the roof of the box, diagonally—Two bottom boards to each colony ; one to every
box—Closing sides of zinc -

CHAPTER Ix.

OF THE BEE HOUSE AND WINDOW APIARY:
Observations on bee houses—Sheds objectionable—Dr. Bevan’s bee house—Instruc-

tions for erecffng a bee house—Cross-barred frame for supporting the boxes—
Window apiary ; its advantages—Entrance blocks . oe -

CHAPTER X.

MANAGEMENT OF THE BEE HOUSE OR WINDOW APIARY.

A few hives of straw to be kept in the open air—The depriving system not perfect—
Treatment of straw hives—How to stock a bee house, &c.—I. First Year—With
a prime swarm—Forcing artificial swarms and destruction of queen—Caution

Page

45

62

xil CONTENTS.

Page
Natural swarming preferred in the event of the destruction of the old queen—If
queen destroyed or not, casts to be expected—Treatment of casts—Feeding new
swarms—Supplying room—Preparing for autumnal formation of artificial stocks
—Removal of full bee glass—Method of forming artificial stocks—Uniting bees—
Treatment of them—Advantages of such stocks—Second plan for rearing artificial
stocks—Auturon feeding—Winter treatment—Board-cleansing—II. Szeconp YEAR
—Spring feeding—Spring treatment—Summer management—New method of in-
creasing an apiary, wholly irrespective of swarming—Artificial swarms to be made
out of old straw hives—How to form one good stock out of two old ones—Renova-
tion of comb in boxes—Renewing colonies in a bee house by replacing old with

young queens - - - - - = %

CHAPTER XI.

OF FEEDING BEES:

Top feeding preferable to feeding at bottom—Objections to Mr. Nutt’s plan—Care
to be taken to prevent escape of heat in a hive inspring—Two kinds of feeders re-
commended and described—One for copious feeding in autumn—The other for par-
tial feeding in winter and spring—Objections to winter feeding—August or Sep-
tember feeding to be preferred—Food—Sugared ale—Barley sugar - 96

CHAPTER XII.

OF CERTAIN INSTRUMENTS, EITHER USEFUL OR NECESSARY TO BEE MANAGEMENT.

Zine plate—Bee dress—Bee knife of two kinds—Weighing machine for garden
hives—Conclusion - - 102

THE

COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

CHAPTER I.

PRELIMINARY NOTICES, RECOMMENDATORY OF OOTTAGE AND
AMATEUR BEE KEEPING.

HE history of this volume—how and why it came to be written—I

may perhaps be allowed to state in a few words. When I first settled
down in an agricultural district, having long been passionately addicted
to the study of bees, but chiefly as a recreative pursuit, I turned my
attention to the subject anew, with a more practical intent, as I began
to view in it one means, among others, of improving the condition,
both financial and moral, of the surrounding peasantry, many of whom
were suffering greatly under the pressure of thetimes. The vicinage,
as affording bee pasturage, had ever been considered remarkably good ;
and the honey of the district, too, was much esteemed. The. culture
of bees itself, however, was almost in its lowest condition, at least
amongst the poor. I argued to myself, therefore, that if only half-a-
dozen families could be permanently benefited by my instruction and
encouragement, it would amply repay me for any trouble I might
‘incur. To lose no time, I at once established a second apiary of my
own, in the management of which I hope to acquire such sound addi-
tional knowledge of bee: matters, as should qualify me to act as a
pioneer, and ultimately to become the propounder, of a better system
than that which prevailed around me; nor was it long before I felt
myself in a position to start my plan of cottage bee encouragement.
At the same time, I sought other aid in the published treatises of older
and more experienced bee keepers, some of whom I knew had en-
deavored to write for the benefit of the poor. But seek as I might, I

ak

2 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

songLt in vain for the tract whose instructions generally my own
experience would justify me in recommending to their notice. It was
about this time I formed the design of myself attempting to supply
this desideratum in apiarian literature; but after spoiling much good
paper, and wasting not a little valuable time, I was fain to give it up
in the end, not from any doubt as to the matter or instructions which
I designed to give being good and useful, but from a sense of the dif
ficulty I should find in successfully handling the subject, so as to hring
it down to the understanding of the poor. From the débris of this
tract, however, arose the conception and outline of the present work,
which by degrees assumed its actual form—less modest and unpre-
tending it may be than the parent from whose ashes it proceeded, but,
I would fain hope, not the less calculated to please and to be useful.
My first object, however, remains unaltered. I wish to induce all
residents in the country, who have leisure and opportunity, to en-
courage bee keeping among their poorer neighbors—and not with a
view to their pecuniary advantage only, for the study of bees is capa-
ble of ministering to amuch higher end. There is scarcely a more in-
teresting branch of natural history to be mentioned, and none certain-
ly more instructive. To quote the words of Dr. Bevan: “In common
with the other branches of natural history, it leads to a salutary exer-
cise of the mental faculties; it induces a habit of observation and re-
flection; no pleasure is more easily attainable, nor less alloyed by any
debasing mixture; it tends to enlarge and harmonise the mind, and to
elevate it to worthy conceptions of nature and its Author.’ Every
word of this is true. The rustic bee keeper, if he have only a soul to
appreciate the works of God, and an intelligence of an inquisitive or-
der—and intelligence is sure to expand with the attentive study of
any branch of natural history—cannot fail to become deeply interested
in observing the wonderful instincts, (instincts akin to reason,) of these
admirable creatures; at the same time that he will learn many lessons
of practical wisdom from their example. Having acquired a knowl-
edge of their habits, not a bee will buzz in his ear without recalling to
him some of these lessons, and helping to make him a wiser and a
better man. It-is certain that in all my experience I never yet met
with a keeper of bees who was not a respectable, well-conducted
member of society, and a moral, if not a religious, man. ~ It is evident,
on reflection, that this pursuit, if well attended to, must occupy some

THR COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 3

considerable share of a man’s time and thoughts. Ie must be often
about his bees, which will help counteract the baneful allurement
of the village “public,” with all its accompanying syren-like evils.
Whoever is fond of his bees ts fond of his home—is an axiom of irre-
fragable truth ; and it is an axiom that will be sure to kindle in every
true Englishman’s breast a favorable regard for a pursuit, which,
though humble, has undoubted power to produce so happy an influ-
ence. ‘“ Where the Frenchman sings of his country, we tallx of home.
. . .We point with exultation, (and I trust with gratitude,) to the fire-
sides of England, and claim the admiration of the world for the virtue
which has gained so high a reward.” [No home-loving American can
be astranger to these feelings, and cannot fail to be susceptible of the
same happy influences.] Who will not assist in any efforts, great or
small, which may continue this our claim to universal admiration?
Who, that sees in the love of home the companion of many other
virtues, which, if not yet developed into active exercise, are still only
dormant, and may be roused into wakeful energy at any moment?.
To gain the attention, however, of the poor themselves, with the
hope of successfully instructing them in an improved system of bee
culture, is confessedly_ not an easy task. While in other countries the
peasantry need little instruction from their superiors in this matter—
their own quick intelligence supplying them with every necessary en-
couragement—it must be acknowledged that our rustic poor are
slow of apprehension to a proverb, and unready at learning even from
the successful examples of others. Hence it is proper to give them
gradual instruction, taking care to make thé first converts in a neigh-
borhood of the most industrious and intelligent of its cottagers. It is
obviously useless, also, to recommend to their notice any system of
complicated machinery or of fanciful contrivance. Every suggestion
and every improvement which it is intended they shall take in, must
be of the most simple kind. I do not think it necessary to say much
on the subject of expense ; for costly experiments must ever oppose
an insuperable barrier to bee improvement among the poor. Sim-
plicity of detail, therefore, and perseverance in instruction, as well as
personal example, must go hand in hand together in any attempts to
increase the number of, or to improve the system actually in vogue
among, cottage bee keepers. I would fain trust that the system of
cottage management, explained further on, will not be found so diffi-

4 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

cult as to prevent its answering the first of the requisites above men-
tioned; for the other, the benevolence of the higher classes and their
kind co-operation must be looked to.

It is because I believe our rural clergy have it in their power more
than any body else to encourage this branch of rural economy, that I
would address these pages especially to them. Owing to their con-
tinual residence within their parishes or cures, they have the best op-
portunities, both of acquiring themselves a thorough knowledge of
the practical management of bees, and, at the same time, of recom-
mending it to the notice of their people by preceptandexample. Nor
ig it alone in respect of the more extended good which they may
do to others that I would call their attention to this subject, but also
on account of the peculiar interest and pleasure which they themselves
may derive from it. Independently of the interest which attaches to the
apiarian art from economic considerations, and the pleasure of appro-
priating to one’s own use the surplus produce of bee industry—a plea-
sure, by the way, of a very exquisite kind, as every bee master will
bear me witness—it merits, as a branch of natural history, the attention

. of every lover of nature, and the curious investigator of her secret things.
There is still so much mystery attached to the habits of the bee, and
especially to the internal economy of the hive, that the scientific study
of these insects affords ample scope for much patient and hopeful re-
search. Supposing, however, that the whole history of the hive bee
had been opened up so as to preclude the hope of further discovery,
there is quite enough in the simple verification of the discoveries of
others to interest and astonish the lover of nature. In every way, in-
deed, the study of bees is so fascinating and instructive, that I would
gladly induce many of my brethren in the ministry to share its plea-
sures with me.

Having said thus much on the subject of bee-keeping generally, by
way of recommending an increased attention to it, let me say a few
words as to its difficulties. These certainly are neither few nor trifling,
although perfectly easy of mastery by the patient, intelligent, and per-
severing bee owner. The less he can lay claim to this complex char-
acter, the greater of course will his difficulties become. But are not these
qualifications considered necessary to success in every branch of rural
economy—lI may say, in every pursuit of life? Did one ever hear of
stupidity, sloth, or inattention succeeding in any enterprise of whatever

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 5

kind? The farmer who is content with an occasional stroll over his
fields, and a similar inspection over his yards and granaries, will in
vain expect to thrive. Can we wonder at the ill success of an igno-
rant or negligent bee kceper? And yet how often is the expression
of surprise heard from the lips of some individual who has started an
apiar y, that his bees have disappointed him ; when, if particular inquiries
were instituted into the cause of the Gisastat, ten to one it would be
found that the hives had been left unnoticed from October to May, and
from May to October! The management of bees, which always re-
quires some delicacy, and not a little dexterity of treatment, assuredly
demands no less attention and care than other matters of a similar nature.
A considerable apprenticeship is necessary in order to obtain the mastery
over it as a science. There is no “royal road” to successful bee-keep-
ing, as there is none in any thing else. In his preface to his very
useful book, Mr, Taylor has well styled the tyro apiarian’s path, “ usu-
ally a rough and uncertain one;” so rough, indeed, and uncertain,
(chiefly owing to a lack of care and pains,) that three out of every five
persons, who take up this study even warmly, will be found to relin-
quish it with disgust at the end of a few years. Not to dwell hereon
faults of management, there are other causes of failure, almost peculiar to
this country, a few of which I may briefly enumerate, While in America
or Australia,* it is almost incredible of how large an apiary one hive
may become the parent in a very few years; in England, a similar hive
may stand year after year, without change, apparently strong, yet un-
productive in either swarms or honey, perhaps in both together. A stock,
at the time of purchase, may have had a three or four-year-old queen,
(an evil which is seldom acknowledged, and still more seldom guarded
against,) who dies some time in our long winter before there is a brood
wherewith to replace her; the winter may be mild and the spring cold
and late, and no honey gathered till the end of May, whence proceeds
the death from starvation of many a colony of bees, (which might be
saved by a judicious and timely supply of food,) or its productiveness
for the current season destroyed. A rainy summer, too, may follow,
or a very dry one, neither of which yields much honey; in short, a

* In a late work on New South Wales, I read the following astonishing account of the
produce of asingle stock of bees :— In the district Mawarra, near Sydney, one hive has been
known to multiply itself to 300(!!) in the course of three years !?

6 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER,

thousand are the casualties to be feared in this fitful climate, with
which the more fortunate bee keeper of other countries is happily un-
acquainted. Say then, whether it is reasonable to expect success in
the face of these difficulties, where a considerable skill and much per-
severing watchfulness are not present to meet and counteract them?
To be successful in bee-keeping, there must be a sufficient experience
in bee management, whether derived from a practical acquaintance
with the subject, or from a diligent study of the best manuals of instruc-
tion in the matter; it is requisite to be thoroughly initiated in the
mysteries of judicious feeding, and to understand somewhat of that
improved system of bee culture, by whose means the great honey har-
vests are secured at those rare but favored seasons when they occur,
and the most is made of indifferent years; while at the same time the
acquisitive propensity is kept duly in check, so that if much is taken
as legitimate spoil, enough shall still be left to support the prosperity of
the hive. Difficult, however, as unquestionably is the science of bee-
keeping, it is not beyond the reach of attentive perseverance; and
the very difficulties, as in most cases, only serve to enhance the pleas-
sure and gratification of the patient bee master. It has been judi-
ciously observed, that “no one who pays a fair amount of attention to
the management of those very interesting insects will willingly relin-
quish the keeping of them.” Carelessness and indifference alone find
the difficulties to which I have alluded insurmountable, and I take leave
to say they deserve to do so.

CHAPTER II.

OF THE ESTABLISHMENT OF AN APIARY, OHOICE OF A SITUATION,
AND REQUISITES FOR ITS WELFARE.

THERE are some parts of England where, it is to be feared, the utmost
attention to bee-keeping can meet with only very partial success. In
such places, it is but once, perhaps, in four or five years that anything
like a fair harvest of honey is obtained. It may be asked, therefore,
is it worth while encountering the many vexations and discourage-
ments of the intermediate years, for the sake of this inadequate, and
only occasional, remuneration? This is a question, of course, for every
intending bee keeper to answer for himself. Having myself kept bees
for about seven years in a locality of this kind, I can speak feelingly
of the disappointment and loss occasioned by it. In all that time, I
never had the good fortune to obtain a single pound of honey by fair
means ;’ and what I did obtain, at the cost ofa hive’s sacrifice, was both
poor in quality and insignificant in quantity. Nor was my case at all
singular in this respect, my neighbors to a man complaining of the like
ill success, in spite of attention and pains bestowed, without grudging.
I was in consequence very nearly giving up the pursuit, as many oth-
ers had done before me, although not reputed to be readily daunted
by mishaps. My advice, therefore, to every aspiring bee keeper, who
can assure: himself that the locality in which he happens to reside is
of thisnature, is this: to let bee-keeping alone. Happily, however, such
instances of very bad locality are rare. Most places will at least amply
repay the labor and cost of establishing an apiary; while some few
highly-favored districts will yield astonishing supplies of the most de-
licious nectar. Whoever happens to reside in the vicinity or large
woods, heaths, or commons, or still better, within reach of all these
together, may consider himself especially fortunate. A broken coun-
try, however—by which I mean a country devoted to no particular

8 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

branch of husbandry—is not far inferior, where water, woods, and
meadows divide the land between them.

The question being settled, ‘‘to be or not to be,” as regards the es-
tablishment of an apiary next are to be considered sundry necessaria
to its well-being, which, for facility of reference and conciseness, I
have drawn up in a set of rules, gleaned for the most part from a vari-
ety of sources, both ancient and modern, at the same time attested by
my own experience or approval. They have reference in general to
the requisites of every kind of apiary, but are drawn up for the more
especial instruction of those who prefer the use of the cottage hive,
standing in the open air. I think it unnecessary to dwell upon the
subject of pastwrage, which has been fully treated of by other writers,
because nothing but supplying it, (if it must be supplied artificially,)
on a large scale is of any material advantage to the prosperity of an
apiary. White clover and buckwheat, (the latter of which is excellent
food for poultry,) may be sown largely with double advantage—clover
more especially, as sheep and cattle are extremely fond of it; also the
more laurustinus about a house the better for early spring-feeding;
but, beyond this, I would recommend no especial provision for the
apiary, as the land so occupied may be cultivated to a much better
advantage. To proceed, then.

1. All out-door bee hives of wood or straw must be placed in a
well-sheltered situation. A garden in a valley, well protected on all
sides from the effect of high winds, undoubtedly ranks among the first
of bee localities; but it is of little importance where the apiary is sit-
uated, so that it é nof in a damp spot, nor exposed to the fury of high
winds from any quarter. These last are especially detrimental to the
prosperity of an apiary, those more particularly which blow from the
southwest, round by north, to northeast, and east.

2. It is of less consequence that the hives be warmly situated in
winter, than'that they be screened from thé morning sun in the very
early spring, and from the fierce noonday heat of summer and autumn.
This is most injurious, although but little attention has been paid to
the matter generally. Therefore, by all means let them be protected,
if possible, by some verandah or screen from the sun's rays. In this
case, the best aspect for them is undoubtedly the southeast or south.
If, however, they cannot be thus conveniently and effectually shaded,
the hives must be set at the back side of a high wall or feuce of trees,

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KTEPER. 9

facing eastward or westward—the latter aspect, I think the best of the
two. So much alive are some apiarians to this evil, that they prefer
turning their hives with a point to the north; nay, it has been pro-
posed, (and with a show of reason,) to keep them always facing the
direct north, In their natural state, we know bees seek a uniform
temperature, by burying themselves deep in the hearts of forests,
where the sun’s rays seldom, if ever, penetrate. Their own restless
activity keeps them alive enough in summer, while they are so snugly
housed in winter as seldom to be induced to sally forth; hence arises
this further advantage, that they prey but little on their stores. It
cannot be too urgently recommended to keep the hives as cool as pos-
sible in the late spring and summer, for it will be found as a general
rule, that, in proportion as this be carefully attended to, the swarms
will be stronger, the bees more vigorous and indefatigable in the col-
lection of honey, and the honey itself more wholesome and pure. It
may seem paradoxical to recommend coolness of situation, when it is
at the same time fully acknowledged that heat is the great promoter
of early and vigorous swarming; yet the advice is not the less based
upon sound reason and experience. It is true, some bee keepers re-
move all cover from their hives in a hot May or June sun, with a view
expressly to compel early swarming; I have done so myself in the
days of my noviciate; nothing, however, can be conceived more fatal
than such a proceeding. The queen will leave the hive very little
sooner for such treatment—certainly it cannot expedite the birth of
royal issue a single moment—but the harm done to the hive’s pros-
perity is incalculable. Before swarming takes place under such cir-
cumstances, the queen bee and her subjects will long have been griev-
ously incommoded; the process of -breeding will have been hindered ;
many of the grubs will have perished, or at least thousands of eggs
become abortive; while certainly no addition will have been made to
the stores of honey, if the combs do not actually give way under the
‘influence of the unusual heat. Thus the issuing swarm must needs
be weak, and the old hive from which it issued impoverished in every
way. This, therefore, I lay down as a rule of sound doctrine, that
internal heat, arising from an over-crowded population, is alone pro-
ductive of prosperity in the economy of bee management.*

* See Appendix, Note A,

10 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

3. Every hive should have its own stand and single pedestal ;, that
is, a pedestal and board on the top, firmly nailed to it, distinct from
the bottom board, of the hive. The pedestal itself may be of pine,
slightly charred where it enters the ground, and its top of stout inch
oak. I advise the use of a separate bottom board for each hive, for
facility of weighing, cleansing, &c. Mr. Taylor has given a useful hint
for those who would dispense with this second board at page 30 of his
Bee Keeper’s Manual. He recommends a square-topped pedestal, and
advises the construction of a sort of cap, made of pieces of wood
nailed to the under side of the bottom board, so as to fit on the top
of the pedestal. A screw, passing through one of the sides of this
cap into the pedestal, secures the board with the hive upon it. If this
plan be adopted of securing the hive, let every cap or socket of every
board, as well as every pedestal, be of exactly the same size, so as to
allow of the boards being shifted, as occasion may require, from one
pedestal to another. To those, however, who may be disposed to fol-
low the plan of management detailed in the following pages, I doubt
not the use of a second board to every hive will appear more advan-
tageous. A friend of mine has constructed a very neat, and indeed
ornamental, stand in his garden, consisting
of a post let into the ground, having two
pieces of wood arranged crosswise on the
top, in the manner, as seen in the adjoining
sketch. A couple of screws would secure
the hive from accident, if passed through
the board into the bars. While on the
subject of hive boards, let me urge the advantage of carefully ascer-
taining the weight of every article of bee furniture, (as hives, boards,
&c.,) and marking the weight legibly on each, so as to be able at any
moment to ascertain the weight of the contents of every hive. This
will save much trouble.

4, As a general rule, there ought to be a space of three feet, at least,
between the hives as they stand together in a row; or, to suit the
plan of management hereafter to be described, each prime swarm of
the year had better stand within a foot and a half of its parent-hive,
at its side; every two hives so placed standing as a duett, (if I may so
call it,) at a distance of four feet from the neighboring hives. Hives
80 managed would occupy about the same space in an apiary as if they

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 11

stood individually three feet apart from each other. I advise this for
the manifest advantage which will accrue at the time of the autumnal
harvest, when the bees out of one hive, on plundering it, may be saved
and united to the adjoining stock, at the least possible waste of bee
life, and without creating a confusion in the apiary. A good height
from the ground is sixteen inches. Not too many stocks should stand
together in the same place; from eight to ten hives are sufficient for
one locality. Where more hives are kept, the apiary should be divi-
ded into two or more parts, as widely separated as possible. Where
bees are domiciled too closely together, and in too many families, much
confusion is apt to be created at swarming time, when the agitation
which one hive occasions during the process of swarming, not seldom
communicates itself to the others.

5. It is of the utmost importance that water be at hand, especially
in spring, when bees consume great quantities of it. In very dry
weather, it is almost essential to the existence of an apiary, that it be
supplied artificially, if there are no rippling streams or other suitable
waters at hand. Some large pans filled with stones and waiter, and
covered with moss or sticks, for the bees to alight upon and drink with
safety, should be placed near the hives. While, however, water is so
essential, the vicinity of rivers or large ponds, or sheets of water, is
to be deprecated, as tending to endanger the lives of thousands of
these valuable insects in windy or showery weather.

6. Keep away from the bees’ neighborhood all vermin and foul
smells of every kind. Among bee pests may be enumerated pigs,
(with their sties, and all dung heaps,) fowls, mice, slugs, snails, ants,
hornets, and wasps. Of thése, the latter are decidedly the most formi-
dable. The vicinity of lime or brick kilns, tan -yards, gas houses, and
offensive premises of every kind, is annoying to them.

7. The garden in which the apiary is situated, especially in front and
about it, should be well stocked with low shrubs or espaliers, at a
convenient distance, backed, if possible, by taller trees. These are,
of course, requisite to allure the bees at swarming time to settle near
home, for convenience of hiving, instead of wandering off, as they
are very apt to do when the coast is clear, nobody knows whither.

8. A well-mown and cleanly-kept grass plat, or a gravel walk, affords
a capital ground for the hives to stand upon. They should not, how-
ever, be far distant from some wall or thick fence in the rear; but

12 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

there must be plenty of room behind for the performing of every neces-
sary operation.

9. No dripping of ‘trees, nor water drops from the eaves of houses,
should be suffered to fall upon, nor near the apiary; for damp is of all
things perhaps the most hurtful to bees. It may be asked, Why not
elevate the hives at a greater height from the ground, such being the
case? To this I answer, that of two evils the lesser is chosen, the
stands being low to preserve the hives from the effects of high winds,
No long grass nor tangled weeds of any kind, no cabbage nor lettuce
plants, should be suffered to grow within two yards of an apiary, more
particularly in front, for the young or weak bees alighting upon them,
will fall into them and perish, on their return from the fields in cool’
weather.

10, Let the apiary be so situated, (in the last place,) as to be in full
view from the most frequented part of the house, for the instant dis-
covery and remedy of accidents, and the observation of rising swarms,
The hives had also better be removed out of sight of a highway, to
avoid the danger of their being stolen.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 13

CHAPTER III.

OF STOCKING THE APIARY, WITH DIRECTIONS FOR THE PUROHASB
OF STOCKS AND SWARMS,

THERE are two methods of stocking an apiary—by swarms purchased
in the spring, and by stock hives, bought at the close or beginning of
the year. The former, as being the cheapest, will ever be the favorite
method resorted to by cottagers. To be worth the purchase, a swarm,
which must always be the first or prime swarm, should not weigh less
than four pounds, and it should issue from the parent hive not later
than the 7th or 8th of June, [in England]; for every week after that
date, eighteen pence or a half crown, (according to the price current
of a swarm,) must be deducted fromits value. After the 21st of June,
it is not worth five shillings, unless indeed the season should be very
fine, and the swarm very large. The most valuable swarms, perhaps,
are those which issue early in the fortnight previous to the 7th of that
month; but, of course, much will depend upon the season; for, should it
be late and unpropitious, a swarm of this date will be more valuable than
one which issued on the 25th of May; while in some forward years, a
most profitable swarm will be thrown a fortnight earlier than this.

If possible, in the purchase of a swarm, the age of its queen should
be ascertained, and a young mother selected. The best swarms
undoubtedly, (ceteris paribus,) are those which proceed from two-
year-old stocks of large size, that sent out a swarm the previous year ;
because it is certain they have young and vigorous queens, and
the condition of the parent hive is eminently favorable still to the
production of a healthy brood. This advice, as every well-instruct-
ed apiarian will at once perceive, is based upon the knowledge
we possess, that every prime swarm, (the exception proves the
rule,) is led forth or accompanied by the old queen, who in so doing
vacates her throne in favor of one of the shortly-expected princess-
es. But a swarm from a very old stock, although it may have a young

14 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

queen, is carefully to be rejected ; for the bees having been bred for the
most part in contracted and, perhaps, vermin-eaten cells, will be gen-
erally found of small size and insignificant in numbers. Sufficient at-
tention is very seldom paid to this matter, most people being content
with any prime swarm they can procure, from an idea, that because
it is a prime swarm,, it must therefore of necessity succeed; and yetit
may be often worthless, as containing an old queen of say three or
four years of age, who will very probably die in the course of the en-
suing autumn or winter. To this ignorance are to be attributed most
of the mishaps and ill successes of bee-keeping. Iam aware of the diffi-
culty there is, in the present low condition of bee science, in follow-
ing this advice, when there is not a cottager in the three kingdoms
but would stare, on being asked so, (to him,) incomprehensible a ques-
tion as the age and pedigree of hisqueen bees! I rather throw this
out as a hint for the instruction of cottagers, who should be taught the
advantage of putting down in a book the date of issue of every queen
in their apiaries. There might be affixed to these swarms or stocks a
regular price according to their value. Thus, for instance, twenty-five
shillings, [$6,] would not be too much to ask for a stock in the spring
that has well survived the winter, of which the bees are in full vigor,
and the weight over 18 lbs., it being moreover a stock of two years’
standing, which swarmed the year before. No one who was aware of
the value of such a stock ought to grudge giving twenty-five shillings
for it. It might be considered worth a pound sterling if purchased
before the winter. Again, a current year’s swarm, which proceeded
from a stock of this kind, would be worth full fifteen shillings, if it is-
sued before the 1st of June, and even later. Other swarms and stocks
might have a price put upon them in proportion to their individual
value. Such a plan would tend to reduce bee management to a sys-
tem, and would help remove many of its uncertainties; nor is it
at all difficult either to acquire a knowledge of its details, or toimpart
the same, when acquired, to others.

As to the other method of stocking an apiary, I decidedly prefer the
purchase of a stock hive or hives in the autumn or spring, especially the
latter; that is, about March or April, when the winter is safely pas-
sed, Independently, however, of the larger sum which is usually asked
for stocks that have survived the winter, it is often difficult to get them
at any price, as the cottagers are naturally unwilling to diminish their

THE QOTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 16

stock of brood hives when the return of the profitable season is so
near at hand, thinned as they not seldom are by the casualties of
winter, besides which it is almost cruel to tempt them to do so even
with a large bribe. And yet if such hives can be bought without
scruple, a good March or April-purchased stock ought not to be over-
looked, on account of the more speedy and large return which may be
expected from it. Should it be found necessary, however, to com-
mence with autumn-purchased hives, as will generally be the case, let
two good stocks be transferred at once to the apiary; this will give
double chance of success, nor will the loss of one hive the following
spring be felt so much, if its fellow survives and thrives ad libitum.

If the commencing bee keeper is not over confident in his own ex-
perience, which he will do well not to be, let him procure the assist-
ance of some apiarian friend of long standing and tried acquaintance
with the whole science of the matter, for true is often the case in this
instance as in other things—“all is not gold that glitters;” of this, the
“gude wives” all over the country are well aware; and, as report says,
they are not always, (to their shame be it spoken,) anxious to do to
others as they would be done by, not seldom will they take grievous
advantage of the ignorance of anovice. If such an experienced friend
is not to be found, the following rules will be found useful. Where
the word of the bee merchant is at‘all to be depended on, let the age
of every hive and queen in the apiary be first inquired after, and then
proceed to the examination.

1. A prime swarm ofthe current year may generally be aie by its
abundant population, the completeness of its works, and especially by
the pale brown or straw colour of its comb.

2. The bees must be vigorous as well as strong in numbers; while they
fill up well the interstices between the combs, they must be on the
alert and waspish—ready, I mean, to resent any intrusion or attempt-
ed approach to them. On a fair day, at either season, (but especially
in the spring,) they ought to play in and out of their hive with much
activity, by far the greater proportion of them being seen, (at least in
spring,) to re-enter the hive with well-laden thighs. This is in itself
almost decisive, being an unfailing criterion of the present vigor of
hive.

3. If a current year swarm, the stock should not weigh less than 23
Ibs, or 24 Ibs., exclusive of hive, at or soon after Michaelmas, [September

16 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

29th]. Ifbought about Lady day, [March 25th,] it should weigh at
least 16 lbs. of contents. A two-year-old stock should weigh a pound
or two more.

When a swarm is to commence an apiary, let the hive in which it is
to be placed be sent some time previously to the bee keeper with
whom the purchaser is in treaty. It ought also to be located on itg
destined stand in the apiary on the evening of the day on which it
issued from the parent hive. In the transport of a stock, (should such
be bought,) great care is requisite to prevent concussion, lest any of
the combs should break down. Where these are fresh, the danger,
of course, is greatest. They may be removed at any time between
Michaelmas and Lady day. ‘The greater the distance from which a
stock is brought, the less chance there is of the bees wandering back to
their old haunts and there perishing.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 17

CHAPTERIV.

OF STRAW COTTAGE HIVES—THEIR SHAPE, SIZE, AND CONSTRUCTION.

Tue bee master, who has safely reared an autumn-purchased stock
through the winter, or procured one in the spring, as well ag the cot-
tager who is on the look out for an early swarm, will, with the arrival
of April, be making preparations for suitably accommodating with
hive room the expected addition to their cares. The old cottage bell
hive it will be well to discard altogether, as being wholly unsuited to
an improved and profitable system of bee management. What kind
of bee domicile, however, shall be substituted in its place is a matter
of some difficulty to determine, owing to the multitude and the varie-
ty of hives which one author and another have put forward with all
the earnestness of self-recommendatory enthusiasm. Most apiarians
have each their own favorite hive—favorite, because in some way or
other modified and improved according to their peculiar fancy. Of all
that I have either seen or heard of, the most suitable for cottagers on
the ground of cheapness and simplicity, is, I think, Mr. Payne’s hive.
T have but one objection to it, on the score of size. It is, I think too
small for single stock hives, kept for swarming purposes, and too large
for a doubled or storified colony. For the former, I would recommend,
instead of twelve inches in diameter by nine inches high, not less than
fifteen inches in diameter, inside measure, by ‘eight inches high. This
size will do for any kind of system, where strong swarms are an object
of attainment.

For myself, as will be seen in the plan of*bee management explain-
ed in the following chapter, I aim-at separating the breeding from the
remunerating business of the apiary, by encouraging the process of
breeding in one hive of large size, (which hive is kept on from year
to year for this purpose alone,) and the harvesting of honey in

B

18 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

another dwelling composed of two hives, each individually smaller than
the other, though collectively larger. In this way, as soon as the
stock hive has thrown off its prime swarm, it is put in this doubled
hive, and suffered to remain till autumn, when the bees are driven
from it, and returned again to the hive whence they issued earlier in
the season, while the entire contents become the spoil of the bee
master. For this second or spoliation hive, (as I call it,) I recom-
mend a size of eleven inches in diameter by nine inches in depth; that
is, (where the two hives are put together,) of eleven inches in diame-
ter by eighteen inches in height, which makes it considerably larger
than the breeding hive. I prefer two hives to one large one, because
it favors the storing of a purer kind of honey, (in the upper part, at
least,) than if it were all laid up in the same hive, to every part of
which the queen mother has free access for laying eggs; otherwise, I
would recommend a size of seventeen or eighteen inches by twelve
for a single spoliation hive. The swarm put into this hive is encour-
aged to increase itself to the greatest possible size, (which the large
dimensions of the parent hive tend to favor,) befor its issue, after
which, all casts are returned, and the old hive, with a new queen, suf-
fered to enrich itself for another year.

The material of which all hives of straw should be, if possible, con-
structed, is sound unthreshed rye straw, the universal testimony of all
bee writers justly recommending it. Let the hives be made rather
stouter than usual, especially if they are to stand in a cold situation—
one inch and a half thick is not too much, well and tightly bound to-
gether. The boards upon which these hives rest must be of stout inch
or one-and-a-half-inch stuff, and they will be of two sizes, agreeing
with the dimensions of the stocks to be placed on them; but each
board should project at least one inch beyond the hive in every direc-
tion, being planed to a slope three inches all round for carrying off the
water. Moreover, the lowest band in every hive should be worked
upon a hoop of wood of as nearly as possible the same thickness.* In
this case, the entrance way may be cut init, three eighths of an
inch high, (rather more than less,) and four inches wide; otherwise, the

* Care must be taken. in affixing this hoop, not to increase the height of the interior
space of the hives beyond the eight or nine inches respectively. Allowance must therefore
be made for it on first constructing a hive.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 19

entrance might, and I think with greater advantage, be grooved out
of the floor board itself, having a gradual ascent into the middle of the
hive. The wooden hoop recommended above “ gives greater stability
to the hive, (says Mr. Taylor,) preserves the lower edge from decay,
and affords facility in removing it’”—all weighty reasons in its favor.

Some persons will probably object to the larger hive on account of
its size. I am, however, perfectly convinced* that large hives are fa-
vorable to the production of large swarms, without the securing of
which no apiary can be reputed as well conducted, neither certainly
can it be profitable. To all who are disposed to dispute it, Isay, give
large hives a fair trial, and they will fully agree with me.

* See Appendix, Note B.

CHAPTER V.
THE COTTAGE SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT IN THE OPEN AIR.

Tr is my intention in this chapter to follow through two years of his
experience the fortunes of some imaginary bee keeper, of the cottager
class, who is supposed to have been well instructed in my peculiar plan.
IfI shall seem prolix and over minute, I must crave the indulgence of the
kind reader, who will, I trust, bear with me, a principal object in this
chapter being the complete guidance of the novice in the somewhat
delicate manipulations necessary to success in this matter. I have
been greatly surprised at the idea of mystery which many persons
seem to attach to the simplest of bee operations, as well as at the
amount of courage thought requisite by not a few in approaching bees.
With respect to the latter, I am bound to confess there are few per-
sons more afraid of these insects than myself, and yet I have obtained
a perfect command over them, as witness the success of my experi-
ments. The fact is, knowing from experience that I am never safe
from an attack, I take care always to be well protected against their
stings; and this is the secret of my coolness and daring in conducting
any, however difficult, process, of bee management. Should any of
my readers labor under a similar fear of bees’ stings, let me suggest to
them the use of a bee dress, which will render them proof against all
possible attack from any number of these insects, otherwise so justly
formidable. As to mystification, I have yet to learn wherein it con-
sists. There are many persons, however, so extremely simple, so ut-
terly “lost for want of hints,” that unless everything be explained in the
minutest manner, it does not fail to wear an appearance of mystery in
their eyes. To such persons, I address myself in this particular chapter.

First year .—Let us suppose, then, that our commencing bee mas-
ter, having purchased a stock* in March or April, or in the preceding

* Ido not notice the case of acottager who may have commenced his apiary by the
purchase of a swarm, as he will learn from the second year’s treatment of the apiary, as
given further on, everything requisite for him to know in the matter.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 21

autumn, (which has survived the perils of the winter,) has the gratifi-
cation of beholding, after some patience, the issue of a fine swarm on
a sunny morning in May. No sooner is it settled, (which was none
the speedier for his “tanging,” should he have resorted to that primi-
tive and enlightened practice,) than he proceeds, with his bee dress
on, to the bush or tree on which the bees have alighted, whence he
sweeps them, with a goose wing, or with his gloved hand, intoa honey-
smeared hive of the darger kind, (as recommended in the last chapter,)
whose weight ought previously to have been carefully ascertained.
Now if this swarm issued early, say on or before the 25th of May,
it were best to return it at once to the parent hive, after destroying its
queen, unless indeed it be ascertained of a certainty that her age does
not exceed two full years; though even here I should feel disposed
to get rid of her to make way for a young queen, as there is no doubt
whatever that the queen bee is in her prime for breeding the second
year of her existence, after which her vigor sensibly declines. While,
therefore, she may readily be suffered without hazard to live over a
third spring, it is, I think, far more profitable to keep up a succession
of royalty in its prime only, by getting rid of the old queen every year.
It may seem a difficult operation to catch and destroy a queen, where-
as, in truth, all that is required is a cool and fearless temper, (which a
bee dress ought to give,) a good pair of eyes, and a quick but steady
hand. The delay in swarming will notbe great nor injurious, while the
greatest possible advantage will accrue from this treatment, not only
in securing the inestimable advantage of a young queen, who will be
in her prime the following spring, but also in the imcreased population
that will be added to the swarm on its second issue. I lay great stress
upon this advantage, as it is a main feature of my system that the
prime swarm should be, if possible, twice as large as such swarms
usually are. The process of catching the old queen, and returning the
swarm, is extremely simple and interesting. It is as follows:—First,
the new swarm having been temporarily hived in the ordinary way, is
quietly placed on a stool or table as near as possible to the place where
it alighted, taking care to shade it effectually from the sun, after which
the bee master hastens to the old hive, and blocks up the entrance hole
by means of a piece of list wound round the hive, (tied in a bow,) so that
not a bee may pass in nor out. A little space should be left, perhaps,

22 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

for the admission of air, by thrusting a few bits of slate beneath the
edge of the hive. This done, a sheet or table cloth is spread on the
ground in a shady place, not less than three yards distant, (though not
too far,) from the old hive. Next the hive is brought, in which the
new swarm has been temporarily located, and its contents dashed out
upon the middle of the sheet by a sudden and smart blow or two on
its top. The bees thus exposed to view—startled, as well they may,
by the rude treatment they have received—appear confused and almost
stupified, and seem scarcely disposed to move. Now is the time to
search for the queen, and the more eyes the better; scrutinise the mass
carefully, seek everywhere, examine with a small stick or spoon every
heap of bees which seems larger than another, until the person of
majesty is secured. If, on being knocked out of the hive, the bees take
wing, (which howeyer will rarely, if ever, be the case, where the oper-
ation is conducted in the shade,) the whole swarm will return to the
old stock, (their flying elsewhere is now inconceivable,) where they will
congregate in a large cluster near the entrance, vainly endeavoring to
get admission, owing to the impediment of the list bandage. Here, then,
the apiator comes, and searches everywhere among the living mass
until successful in his search. As soon as the queen is caught, let him
quit the scene of operation instantly, and either destroy her at once,
or put her under a glass or tumbler inverted, together with a few
workers; she would prove an invaluable boon to the weak hive of
some neighboring cottager, if not too old. Returning then quickly to
the garden, the bee master loosens the list bandage, if somebody else
have not. done this already, and permits to the outlying bees free ac-
cess to their ancient home, into which they will speedily enter. At
first, they will be somewhat restless, but everything will have become
tranquil long before night, the bees consoling themselves the more
readily for the loss of their queen, with the prospect of a speedy issue
of royal brood. The apiator must now watch carefully for the second
rising of the swarm, which will generally take place between the seventh
and tenth day after, though sometimes sooner or later, as the case may
be. It will rise, however, with greater readiness and regularity than
the first, as well on account of the crowded state of the hive, as be-
cause young queens are known to be less dependent on the weather
than the old ones. When risen and settled, let them be speedily hived,
as before, in their improved permanent building, (a large hive if it

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEER KEEPER. 23

is to be kept to another year,) and located the same evening on their
new stand,* at a distance of a foot and a half from the parent stock,
Should the season be at all propitious, this swarm ought to weigh from
60 to 90 lbs., at the end of eight weeks’ time, and yield magnificent
swarms the following year.

Should it be ascertained, however, that the age of the queen bee
does not exceed two full years, and it be thought desirable that she
should head the swarm, or if the swarm should issue after the 25th
of May, (in which case the prime swarm might be delayed too long
if the queen were destroyed,) when the bees have been quietly settled
a few minutes in their new or larger hive, let the old hive be removed
from its accustomed stand to some shady and remote part of the gar-
den till evening, it being there tied up, and its inhabitants kept prison-
ers until then. The new hive should now be put upon a suitable
board, and made to replace the old hive. The object of this proceeding
is the strengthening of the new swarm to its utmost extent, and the
prevention of casting. The former is not of so much importance the first
year as afterwards, when, the apiary having attained its full and intend-
ed size, or nearly so, these prime swarms are to be broken up in the au-
tumn, and spoiled of their contents. At present, the prime swarm, I shall
suppose, is intended to remain as a stock over the coming winter. The
plan to be pursued with a view to strengthen it, (and even when thehive
is to be kept, it may be strengthened with advantage,) is as follows :—
About an hour before dusk, the old hive is brought to the stand which it
is intended permanently to occupy ; here the bandage is loosened, when
a rush of the imprisoned bees will take place, eager to enjoy the pure
air after their confinement. Many of them, after a short flight, will
return, but, not a few, instead of flying back to their hive, will go to
their former well-known quarters, now occupied by the new swarm.
There finding their queen and friends, they will remain to increase
the strength of the new swarm, by the welcome addition of their
numbers. Nothing remains but to restore its hackle to the old hive,
and to give a milk pan tosthe new one—this having @ flat top, but not
so the other. The pan should be elevated an inch from the top of the

a

* That is, if the swarm appears very strong ;- otherwise, let it be treated according to the
directions given in the ensuing paragraph.

24 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

hive, by the insertion of a few stones, to allow space for a current of
cool air between it and the hive, which will be very grateful to the
bees, and tend to further the hive’s prosperity.

Now in this case, that is, the substitution of the new hive for the
old one, in all probability no further issue of swarms will take place
from the old stock, for the major part of the population having gone
off with, or subsequently joined, the prime swarm, there is every like-
lihood that the first-hatched princess will issue from her cradle before
the population shall have sufficiently increased as effectually to control
her actions, notwithstanding the large quantity of brood which is
always left behind by the old queen. In this case, which will happen
nine times out of ten, the newly-liberated queen rushes wildly about
the hive, inflamed by instinctive impulse to a most vindictive rage,
plunges her sting into every royal cell still occupied by brood, and
destroys every rival, thus remaining undisputed mistress of the hive.
Here, of course, no more swarms will issue; but—and mark the ad-
vantage of this result—instead of a succession of miserable casts pro-
ceeding from the hive to trouble and annoy the apiator, and blight his
prospects for another year, (which casting almost invariably produces,
as the casts are in general worthless, and the old stock becomes too
impoverished to survive the winter,) there will stand till the spring
following the original stock, besides the prime swarm, both presided
over by young and vigorous queens, and having a teeming and youth-
ful population.

In the former case, however, where the first-hatched princess of the
year was forced to lead off the prime swarm, (this being not located
on the old stand,) a cast must certainly be looke1 for, which will prob-
ably issue from the hive two or three days after the first; that is, ur-
less the first swarm was remarkably large. Instead of suffering it to
stand as a distinct stock, I would advise it to be returned to its parent
hive the same day. As, however, it would probably re-issue the fol-
lowing day, (and every day so long as there remained any royal brood,)
I would recommend the apiator, after hiving*the cast in the usual way,
to lift the old hive off its stand, turn it up in a pail, and cut out every
royal cell that he can see. Owing to the probably small number of bees
left behind, after the issue of the cast, the operation is a very simple
and easy one. When the royal cells have been removed, bring the
cast in its temporary hive, and turn it quickly bottom upwards in the

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 25

pail, and set the old hive over it. The bees will immediately ascend
up into it; nor will there be any further issue, especially if the junc-
tion be effected towards evening. It is well to perform the operation
close to the old stand of the old hive, to which, (when the bees have
crept up into it,) the hive may be removed; were the junction effected
at a distance, it might happen that a good many bees would lose them-
selves in seeking for their home in its well-known locality, particularly
if the old hive were not replaced till evening.

The old-fashioned bee keeper will, I doubt not, object.to the system
here proposed, that it promises no nectar spoil the first year, owing to
my discouragement of casting; all scientific apiarians, however, are
agreed in recommending either the return of casts, or their junction
with one or more others. Of these two methods, I decidedly give the
preference to the former; and I thinkit stands to reason, that two old
hives, (if still clean, and not too old as to their comb,) with a returned
population of youthful workers and vigorous queens, will do far more,
and yield a much larger profit in the end, than the united casts of these
hives would do, together with the same old stocks, if preserved to
another year—seeing these will each have a weak population. More-
over, the season must be bad indeed which does not see some surplus
boney gathered by, and obtained from, the monster prime swarm.
Large though the hive may be, it will be found to fall short of the
space demanded by the wants of the thronging and busy insects; the
bee master ought, therefore, about the eighteenth day after its estab-
lishment, (according to the season,) to withdraw the bung from the
top hole, and place a large glass or cap over it, having a piece of comb
fastened to its side by the application of heat, to tempt the bees up
into it. Should a glass be preferred to a cap of straw, it must have a
warm flannel covering closely fitting over it, to prevent the escape
of heat; in very hot weather, of course this may be removed, but put
on again should a change of weather occur and a cold temperature
prevail. A common bell hive painted should be made to cover the
glass or cap, surmounted by a neat hackle, projecting in part over the
lower hive, as a protection from rain and sun. Should more room be
wanted, which will be known by the thronging of the bees about the
entrance, a low flat-topped hive should be introduced between the
glass, already partially filled, and the hive itself; or else, if the hive
have several holes in its crown board, other glasses may be set over

pt

26 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

it, large or small, according to circumstances, which I prefer greatly
to the piling of supers one over the other.

The next matter, which will claim the attention of the cottager, will
be the removal of the honeyful cap or glass whenever that happy cir-
cumstance is ascertained, which may be known by seeing most of the:
cells that are visible ceiled in with a waxen lid. As soon as this is
certainly known—if the glass or cap seems ready. for spoliation on or
before the 7th of July—another smaller glass or cap may be substitu-
ted for it. After that date, it will be advisable to suffer the bees to fill
their empty store room in the hive below. The bee master need not
regret the transfer of the honey that may be collected after that time
from himself to his bees, as after the middle of July what honey is
collected is generally poor, and has often a peculiar flavor, far from:
agreeable. While, however, this honey will be of little value to him-
self, it is good enough for his bees, and a treasure to them.

The removal of a glass or cap, and the substitution of another in its
place, is not a matter of much difficulty. The best time for perform-
ing the operation is towards the brightest part of a fine day, when
most of the bees are luxuriating in the fields. This usually occurs
about one or two o'clock, p.m. The apiator should be carefully armed
against the possibility of being stung, as bees are often greatly en-
raged, especially if their hive receive any blow or jar in the event of
the operation being awkwardly performed. The actual removal of the
glass is an easy matter. It is not from the bees who may happen to
be in the glass, or at the hole in the top, that an attack is to be appre-
hended; the sudden admission of light at an unguarded point, where-
an invasion is least expected by them, seems so greatly to confound
them, that they never attempt to fly, eacept they are breathed upon ;
this makes it very easy to remove a glass in a bee house, where the in-
and-out-flying bees cannot annoy.

A favorable opportunity having presented itself, let the bee master
proceed to his apiary with a fresh glass in his hand, a plate or dish
large enough to hold the full one, a stout piece of thread, and a knife
or spatula. After gently removing the hackle and covering hive,
the knife must be passed round the edges of the cap or glass so as to
break the propolis which makes it adhere to the hive top. Next let
him pass the string, holding it with both hands, under the glass, to
sever the comb above from its attachments below—for it has generally

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPFR, 27

@ communication through the hole with the combs below. This must
be done carefully, so as to destroy as few bees as possible—care being
taken also to cut the combs from end to end lengthwise, and not side-
ways or across, for fear of disengaging them from the sides, or crush-
ing a number of bees between them, and so spoiling the honeycomb.
The full glass should now be raised gently, yet quickly, off, and put in
the plate that was provided for the purpose, after which the fresh glass
must be elevated over the hole in the place of the former, and its
coverings restored as before. Should it be thought proper to give no
more room additional, of course the straw bung will be placed over
the hole, and the milk pan covering restored.

Let the full glass now be removed either into the cottage or to some
shady part of the garden, placed on a table, and covered over with
some dark cloth or handkerchief for the space of thirty or forty
minutes. By this time, the imprisoned bees will generally be found in
the greatest commotion, which is the best augury of success, for the
queen mother is known by this to be absent from among them; it is
a sign, also, in general, that.there is no brood in the glass. As to
brood, however, it is utterly unlikely that any will be found where
the hive itself is a large one; the queen never breeds in a bell glass,
except when the dimensions of her proper dwelling are too contracted
for her wants. Now, then, must the glass be turned bottom upwards
in the plate, it being still partially covered by the cloth. Ina very
few minutes, every bee will have flown away. Care must be taken
not to breathe upon, fumigate, nor tap the glass, for this only diverts
the bees’ attention, and counteracts the influence of the royal instinct,
now all-prevalent. If left alone, they. will hie home with all speed,
eager to rejoin their beloved queen mother. When the operation is
performed in the house, the room into which the glass is taken must
be darkened in every part, save only at one open space in one of the
windows, through which the insects may fly out unimpeded; more-
over, the window should look out directly upon, or not be far from,
the apiary, otherwise the bees will be apt to return into the room to
the annoyance of the apiator, being at a loss to find their way home.
He must also be present most of the time until the glass is empty, for
sometimes the bees will return with an accession of force, and rifle
every drop of honey they can find. Should any symptom be.apparent
of an invasion of this sort before the glass is emptied of its contents, it-

238 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

must be removed clsewhere, and the bees imprisoned for a short
space; but this will very rarely happen, except where the bee
master is most culpably negligent.

" It sometimes happens, as I have hinted above, that the queen bee
is imprisoned among her subjects in the glass. If so—and it will be
known by the comparative silence which reigns within, and the little
disposition of the bees to fly away, as well as, (though after a longer
interval, and then not always,) by the restlessness of the bees in the
old stock—the glass must be restored to the parent hive till the queen
is ascertained to have descended; or, better still, the queen may be
hunted for in the glass, and her person secured. In this case, she
might be destroyed, if found to be small in size, and thought to be old;
but this must be done with caution, especially if the hive from which
she is taken be intended for a permanent stock; that is, to remain at least
over the following winter; for a queen may often be lost from a hive
without the bees ever perceiving it, in which case, she must inevitably
perish. If not destroyed, let the queen be put on the alighting board
of the hive, into which she will speedily enter.

Where brood is found in the glass, if in any quantity, it ought to be
returned; otherwise, the sacrifice of it is of little importance.

As soon as August is' fairly over, it will be time to prepare for
winter, by weighing the hives, and supplying any deficiency in the
weight by a timely and liberal supply of food. The new stock ought
to weigh upwards of 23 lbs. of contents, and the old one about the
same, for the difference in age in the one case will about equalize, in
weight of comb, &c., the difference in the other; that is, if one hive
contains old, and therefore heavy comb, the other will probably con-
tain a greater abundance of pollen, as well as more comb, than the
other. Should either hive weigh less than the figure above specified,
(and each ought to weigh very much more. than this,) feed copiously,
and in the shortest possible space of time, (in order that the exciting
cause may be the quicker removed, when bees consume more food
than usual,) either with honey or prepared food, full directions for the
making of which will be found further on in this book.

The business of the apiary being now concluded for the year, all
that remains to be done is to shelter the hives from the winter sun,
should they be at all exposed to its influence. This part of bee
management, namely, the wintering of bees, has rarely been properly

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 29

attended to* ; and yet there can scarcely be imagined a more import-
ant duty of the bee keeper. We have, indeed, had suggestions, many
and various, from different quarters, as to the best method of winter-
ing hives; but no certain or uniform plan, as the result of a careful
trial of all available methods, has yet been put forward; and it is evi-
dent that no one can speak of any method being the best, until the
various merits of such methods have been fairly tested. Some persons
have successfully kept bees through the winter by burial under ground,
while others have stowed their hives in cool barns and dry cellars with
a like result, yet experiments of this kind have been isolated, and no
certain inference can be drawn from them in favor of those particular
plans as generally recommendable. One bee master suggests the
transfer of hives to the north side of a wall or building, while a second
(as Mr. Taylor,) recommends their being sheltered from the sun by a
large wooden screen placed in front of them, without removing them
from their summer stands. In the present condition of our ignorance
on the subject, (for I cannot call it knowledge), I should advise a trial
of these screens, one to each hive ; or, better perhaps, (because cheaper
and less awkward,) a double line stretched on poles, firmly fixed in the
ground, and covered with bass matting, might be made to protect
several hives at once. Of the two former plans, it is impossible yet to
speak with any certainty, until their merits shall have been largely
tried. Nothing is more certain than that all hives become greatly
weakened which are suffered to remain throughout the winter ex-
posed to the sun’s influence; for many bees will be lured out of their
comfortable quarters to almost certain ruin, while an increased con-
sumption of food takes place. Where a suitable locality is chosen,
(well sheltered,) I am very much disposed to consider a permanent
north or northwest situation as presenting an aspect the most desira-
ble for bee hives; but time, and the increasing enterest in scientific
bee management, which is rapidly developing itself, will assuredly dis-
close to us many truths yet only guessed at.

Second year.—The severity of winter no sooner ints to the
soft influence of February zephyrs, [this will apply to Virginia and Ken-
tucky or other states south, but at the north, the season will not be

* See Appendix, Note C.

380 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

sufficiently advanced,] than our little favorites sally forth in quest of
nourishment for their young, many of whom, it may be, are already
hatched in the hive. Warned by their drony hum, (for it has a pecu-
liar sound at this season of the year,) the bee master should pay an
early visit to his apiary, taking with him a clean and dry bottom board.
The process of board-cleansing is another rarely-considered duty of
the apiarian, but not the less important on that account. To the ne-
glect of this precaution is to be attributed the rwin of not a few hives
by the wax moth, and the impoverishment of many more, annually.
These insects are on the alert sometimes as early as March, if the
weather is mild, and may be seen at morn and eve hovering busily around
the hives. They lay a good deal in the interstices between the hive and
the board, on that side where the latter is most thickly covered with
the débris of comb, (for they ‘quickly scent it out,) if this is not
removed. Where the hive is well glued by propolis to the board,
it is a question if the larvae, when the eggs are hatched, can get in,
on which account it may seem a dubious good to break up the hives
from their boards. If, however, these latter are frequently cleansed—
and the oftener the better—no danger on this score need be appre-
hended, besides, the bees will be spared much labor. The best way
to conduct this operation, is to substitute a fresh board for that of one
of the hives, which may be cleansed and dried effectually ere it be
substituted the following day for the board of the second hive, and so
on throughout the apiary, where more than two hives are kept. The
last removed board, after being thoroughly cleansed, may be laid by
for future use. ;

While the above operation is being performed, a good opportunity
presents for examining the condition of the comb in the old hives,
Let these, therefore, be turned up, and any old, black, or mouldy comb
that may be visible, removed, taking care not to cut too deep into the
hive, so as to injure the brood comb actually occupied.

The next thing to be attended to is the weight of each hive, in which
should there chance to be any deficiency, let a proper supply of food
be given to the bees. This ought to have been effectually guarded
against some months before; but if such attention was not paid to
it, about half a pound of diluted honey or beer and sugar, (see Chap-
ter XL,) per week should be supplied to them, until honey is known
to abound.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 81.

Besides the danger arising from a possible failure of food, there are
other evils no less formidable to be apprehended, and various contin-
gencies to be met as they arise. Should any of the hives, for instance,
appear sluggish towards the middle or close of March, or even earlier ;
if the bees stay much at home, however apparently numerous; and
little or no pollen is carried into the hive, (and two out of every three
bees ought to return from the fields well laden with this substance,)
mischief is certainly brewing within. This last, of all signs, is the
most fatal. It is now all over with the hive’s prosperity, and the sooner
it is broken up the better. Hither the queen is dead, or she has be-
come worn out with age. In either case, the bees, having reconciled
themselves to their fate, live riotously on their stores while life lasts,
or their store of honey remains. The best way to treat the hive under
these circumstances, is te fumigate it with burnt puff ball, (Racodi-
um cellare,)* and to unite the bees to the nearest neighboring hive.
As this is often a matter of trouble and difficulty, I would recommend
the following plan to be adopted in conducting the process:—When
the bees are all at home, blow into the hive, by the entrance of a suffi-
cient quantity of smoke, till all is still within it. A few raps upon the
hive will shake down a great many bees, which the smoke itself, per-
haps, has failed to disengage from between the combs. Now lift up the
hive, and sweep the fumigated bees from the stand into an empty hive
or other receptacle, together with as many bees as can be swept off
the combs of the hive itself before they come to lifeagain. This done,
while one person sprinkles the fumigated bees with sugar water, let
another remove the old hive, and set it over a hole prepared before-
hand, and filled with a few sulphur matches; afterwards, the combs
may be cut out at leisure, without any annoyance from the not seldom
speedy recovery of the half-fumigated bees. Before joining the fumi-
gated bees to another stock, the population of both the hives should be
sprinkled with a little sugared ale or eau sucré. To effect the junction,
proceed as follows:—After well sprinkling the fumigated bees, set them,
(in the common bell hive,) bottom upwards in a pail; then take the
full hive, also sprinkled with the preparation, and set it over the
other ; tie a cloth round the points of union of the two hives, and let

% Seo Mr. Taylor’s book.

82 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

them remain in this condition till the following morning early. Now
remove the cloth, and set the full hive on its old stand, when the bees
will be found to have harmoniously coalesced. The hives must not
in anywise be meddled with during the time afforded them for ami-
cably settling their differences. What honey is found in the fumiga-
ted hive becomes the spoil of the bee master ; being probably consid-
erable, he must console himself therewith for his loss.

Let us suppose, however, that both his stocks survive the winter
and spring, and on the approach of May, are in strong’ and vigorous
health, and promise early swarms. Towards the end of April, his
improved hive with the flat roof, (the other, be it remembered, is still
the old hive originally purchased, and has no hole; one however might be
cut out of its top,) must be furnished with a large cap or bee glass, more
particularly if there is any intention of returning the prime swarm,
with a view to get rid of the old queen; for, in this case, the interval
which must elapse between the return and the re-issue of the swarm
will be often so considerable, as to afford plenty of time for filling a
fine glass, owing to the large and rapid increase of the population. In
very good seasons, two glasses may be taken off.

And now swarming time, that most interesting of all seasons to the
lover of bees, has, we will suppose, again come round, and his heart
is elate with hope, while anticipating less disappointment than under
the old system. The bee master is now frequently about his hives,
supplying water, shading from the sun, and watching the progress of
his bees. The early appearance of drones is hailed by him as an es-
pecial augury of prosperity; and they may be seen in some forward
seasons so early as the middle of April. The carrying in of large
quantities of pollen, also, is noted with infinite satisfaction.

Let us now take the case of the old stock, which swarmed the year
before; this being smaller than the swarm which issued from it, and
certainly containing a queen of the previous year, is the first to swarm,
and that on or before the 25th of May. As soon as settled, the bees
should be swept into the larger-sized hive, similar to the one used the
year before, if it be intended to preserve it as a stock hive to another
spring; and the new swarm put in the place of the parent stock, re-
moving this to a stand close by. The same treatment, also, will be
adopted with the first swarm that issues from the other stock,
should it have a youthful queen as the other, and be reserved for win-

33 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

ter stock likewise. If however, the queen was not destroyed the year
before, but suffered to accompany the prime swarm on its first issue,
by all means let this be done now, and the swarm be returned to its
parent hive till the emancipation of the oldest princess. This will not
take place for at least a week later, therefore, give additional space for
working at the top of the hive; it will not delay the swarm’s issue a
single moment.

If, however, it be deemed suitable to increase the apiary by slower
degrees, and one additional stock only be reserved for winter-keeping,
the swarm from the second stock need not have its queen destroyed.
Let it, in this case, be put into one of the smaller-sized hives, (see Chap-
ter IV,) and located on the old stand, as in the instance not long ago
specified. It will thus derive a great accession of strength, owing to
the constant resorting-to it of many bees from the old hive, who, on
returning from the fields, will, in considerable numbers, bend their
flight to their old homestead.*

This swarm must have additional room furnished to it within a week
of its establishment, by placing a super of exactly the same dimen-
sions over the hive itself; it may, indeed, often be requisite to give
this before, as when the season is very favorable or the swarm unusu-
ally large: If these hives are carefully fastened together, well paint-
ed, surmounted with a milk pan, and carefully shaded from the sun,
they will require no more care till the spoliation season comes round.
One or more glasses may be taken off in the course of the summer
from the old stocks and the first swarm; but the apiarian will look
chiefly for his spolia opima, [arms taken by one commander from an-
other,] to the second prime swarm, if he does not intend to keep it
over the coming winter.

Let us suppose the autumn arrived. His bees, perhaps, have all
thrived well. There stands the original stock purchased the year be-
fore; also the swarm which proceeded from it the same season; and
the two swarms obtained from these hives in the current year. Should

* I need not repeat here the instructions already given in the early part of this chapter
for the management of the parent stock after this issue of the prime swarm ; suffice it to
say, that no casts ought, on any account, to be suffered to stand as independent stocks ;
rather let them be returned to their parent hives on the same day of their issue, after a care-
ful excision of all the royal cells which present themselves to view.

34 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

the bee keeper intend to break up his oldest hive, (which he might
do advantageously,) doth his prime swarms ought in this case be pre-
served, and to this end they should have been put both of them into the
largest hives. But if one of them was put into the smaller hive, with
the super added to it, with a view to plunder in the autumn, in this
case the old hive may be kept, (unless vo hives are considered a full
complement for the apiary,) after cutting out of it one or two of the
oldest and dirtiest-looking combs. In either case the bees should be
preserved, and be given to the neighboring stocks. The plan to be pur-
sued is this—and first where the old hive is to be broken up:
Towards dusk on a calm warm evening, proceed to the apiary, ac-
companied by a well-armed assistant, taking with him the following
articles :—a good-sized table cloth, a bucket or pail, a low stool, a good
length of strong twine, an empty hive of the same diameter as the
hive to be operated on, some sulphured feathers and matches, a spade
and a couple of stout sticks about a foot long. These are the imple-
ments which I have found useful in conducting the process of driving.
Business is opened by planting the bucket firmly on the ground
within a yard or two of the doomed hive, which ought some hours
previously to have been broken up from its board, and elevated an
inch above it by some sticks thrust underneath it, with a view to force
the bees up among the combs by means of the current of air which is
thereby admitted across the floor board. The cloth must now be held
by the assistant unfolded, in such a manner that, when thrown over
the hive, its centre shall rest on the top of the hive, while the string
lies untwisted close by the bucket ready for use. Everything being
in readiness thus far, the apiator gently, but quickly, lifts the full hive
off its stand, and arranges it bottom upwards in the bucket. The
empty hive with equal celerity and care is then lifted over the re-
versed stock, and adjusted as accurately ‘as possible to the up-turned
base of it, so that the two hives exactly coincide.* On a signal from the
chief operator, the assistant quickly throws the cloth over the top of
the hive, upon which one of them seizes the string and proceeds to

* Tf not equal in diameter, the empty hive may be rather larger, but on no -account
smaller, than that of the full hive ; otherwise, ten to one the bees will refuse to ascend,
preferring, together with their queen, to adhere obstinately to the intervening ledge. A
hive with a few combs will tempt them up readily.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 35

pass it several times round the hives, just a#, above, and below the
points of junction, ‘taking care to tie it ina bow, A particular atten-
tion to these minutie will save the managers a great deal of trouble,
while it will ensure complete success. This being done—and if done
nicely, not a bee will have escaped to annoy the operators—let one per-
son hold the hives steadily, so that they may not slip apart, while the
other seated on the stool provided for the purpose, commences a smart,
quick, and regular, but not too violent, drumming against the sides of
the reversed and full hive, (and this alone,) with the sticks above men-
tioned. An alternate series of drummings, with intervals of cessation
of a couple of minutes at a time, will soon disturb the population with-
in, and compel the bees to ascend into the empty hive after their
queen, who is generally among the first to move. The ascent, which
is always accompanied with aloud buzzing sound, is frequently ef-
fected, (as in the case especially of a strong and full stock with a vig-
orous queen,) within five minutes of the first commencement of the
drumming ; sometimes, however, it is delayed for many minutes. The
operator will soon learn the fittest time for removing the upper hive
after a little practice ; the novice I would advise to wait some ten or fif-
teen minutes after the first great humming is over. He may continue
tapping at intervals against the bottom hive, but very gently, or the
bees which had already gone up, might descend, as I have more than
once known the queen to do. When the bees are perfectly quiet, the
cloth must be unfastened and gently removed without shaking it, else
the bees, which may happen to be imprisoned in it, will be flying
about in all directions to the dismay of those present. Now let the
top hive be quietly taken off and placed on some stool or table with-
out jarring it, till what few bees may be left in the old hive have been
fumigated with brimstone after the old fashion. A very little sulphur
will suffice in this case, as the fumes will quickly pervade the hive
now thinned of its population. After removing the old hive in-doors—
where the combs may be cut out immediately—attention is turned once
more to the expatriated bees. If the nearest hive to their old stand,
(to which they had best be joined—as but few, if any, will loose them-
selves in seeking their old habitation,) have a flat top, let its coverings
and bungs be removed, and a piece of perforated zinc be spread over
the hole or holes; the temporary hive may then be sect over it, and
every cranny effectually closed, (by which the bees might escape,) with

36 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

a little clay, when the smell of the two swarms will so amalgamate,
that, on withdrawing the plate six or more hours later, they will be
found to have peaceably united, after « contest for sovereignty be-
tween the two queens. At the end of a week—or earlier if it can be
ascertained that the bees have all descended, (up to which time the
clay stopping must on no account be removed from the upper hive,)
the top hive may be taken away altogether. Should any bees be still
found in it, let them be knocked out in front of the hive to which they
have been joined, and they will speedily fly into it. If, on falling down,
they seem to congregate in amass, and do not return to their new home,
their queen, it will be conjectured, probably with truth, is still among
them ; let her be sought for and killed, upon which the bees will soon
disperse and fly away.

Where the nearest hive has no flat top, (or rather, a hole at its top,)
let one three inches square be neatly cut out of it with a sharp knife,
and a cap of perforated zinc be fitted over it. After suffering the
temporary hive, (carefully clayed up,) to remain in this way for a suf-
ficient time—say till the following evening—it may be gently lifted
up, while the zinc cap is removed from the top hole of the lower hive;
let the hive then be replaced as before till the end of the week, and
treated according to the directions above given.

This plan of effecting unions of bees is, perhaps, the simplest and
most effectual of any. We are indebted to Mr. Walond, late rector
of Weston-under-Penyard, Ross, a diligent apiarian, for the important
discovery, (which I have frequently verified,) that if a piece of perfo-
rated wood or metal be introduced between two hives set one above
another, the smell of the two families will commingle in such a man-
ner, that the bees will shortly unite in harmony and become one fam-
ily, thus showing that these insects recognize friend from foe by smell
alone. :

It will sometimes happen, (though very rarely,) that no drumming
will induce the bees to ascend into the empty hive set over them.
When this is the case, either there is but little comb in the reversed
hive, or the bees are few in number, or their queen is weak or dead.
In the latter instance, (and, indeed, in every instance where the bees
to be preserved will not ascend,) recourse must be had to fumigation.
Where stocks are thin in population, or only half full of comb, driving
will rarely succeed, and then only after much trouble. Under such

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 37

circumstances, the only way to dislodge them is by the use of some
narcotic. As soon as this has been effectually employed, and the bees
are collected in a glass or bowl, let them be sprinkled with honey or
sugar water; this dane, reverse them on a perforated zinc plate, and
set them over the hive to which they are to be joined. The plate may
be withdrawn in a few minutes and the junction effected. Perhaps it
is useful to blow a few whiffs of the same narcotic used in fumigating
these bees in at the entrance of the hive to which they are to be joined,
as in the instance already explained. I cannot say I am an advocate
for fumigation where it can be avoided, for I have always found it a
dirty, tedious, and troublesome process; but many as strongly advo-
cate it—and there are times when bees can be saved in no other
way.

If the old hive is not to be plundered, but reserved for stock to an-
other year—should it be more than fowr years old—it will be advisa-
ble to cut away part of the comb, which is now getting black and old.
To effect this, let the bees be driven out according to the method just
explained. When driven, and taken off the old hive, proceed to cut
out the two middle, or blackest-looking combs, about three quarters
of the way up; thatis, until the cells are reached which contain honey,
for this ought by no means to be removed. Should the weight of the
hive be great, the lower part of more than two combs may safely be
cut away, provided that no brood is sacrificed in so doing. If the
combs appear still full of brood, the process of comb excision must be
deferred until the young bees are all hatched out; indeed, the process
of comb excision, on this account, should be generally delayed till the
end of August or the beginning of September, when the lower cells
will be found empty, for the most part, of both honey and brood.
After cutting out as much comb as is thought advisable, the bees may
be re-driven into their old domicile, where they will soon put things
to rights, and, perhaps, make some fresh comb before winter—but if
not, the vacuwm willdo no harm. I have known bees to construct comb
under these circumstances after the 24th of September, when they had
been so treated. I need only observe, that a hive renewed in this
manner by a periodical excision of comb may last in good health and
full prosperity for as many years as the straw itself will last.

The method of dealing with a spoliation swarm is as follows:—The
top or super hive should be taken off not later than the first week in

38 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

August. The plan to be pursued in its removal is in all respects sim-
ilar to that already explained at full, where the first glass or cap had
to be taken off the former year. Nor should the plunder of the main
stock itself be delayed much beyond this time, except where the sur-
rounding country affords much autumn pasturage for bees, in which
case, also, the super, (if not full,) may be kept on a fortnight or so,
longer. Where the queen is still vigorous, a good deal of brood may
yet be found in the lower hive, on driving the bees out of it, at the
period of deprivation. If so, after uniting the bees, as before directed,
to the nearest stock, and cutting out each comb carefully, I would
recommend the part containing the brood to be separated, and to be
placed over the stock to which the bees have already been added. In
order to effect this, let the bungs be removed from the top of the hive,
and seta plate of zinc over the holes; next adjust the brood combs in
an empty flat-topped hive turned bottom upwards, (from which the
bungs have previously been removed,) in such a manner, that the bees,
on being admitted to the combs through the coinciding holes of the
two hives, shall be able to get at every cell—in order to which, the
combs must be so arranged as not to lie flat against each other. Now.
cover this over with an empty bell hive pushed down over it, and
withdraw the zinc plate; the bees will shortly ascend, warm up, and
hatch out the brood with their accustomed care, after which, at the
end of three weeks, the top hives may be removed, and everything
set in order as before.

For autumnal management, in general, in respect to weighing and
feeding up of stocks, I refer the reader to what was said earlier in the
chapter, under the head of the first year’s treatment of the apiary.
It remains for me to add a few words on the selection of breeding
stocks to stand the winter. My plan is—and it is a plan I would ear-
nestly press upon the bee keeper’s notice—to keep the same stock on
from year to year, so long as the hives themselves are sound and un-
injured; and, if properly painted every year, having aiso a wooden
hoop at bottom, they will last full fifteen years and upwards. My rea-
sons for recommending this unusual plan are as follows :—First, that
these stocks have always young queens, and a more youthful and vigor-
ous population, if they have swarmed once, and only once, in the pre-
ceding summer ; and secondly, that the bee keeper’s honey harvests,
being gathered from virgin hives, and fresh combs, will be so much

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 39

more abundant and valuable owing to the superior purity of the honey
so obtained. Is it objected to this system of management, that the
old hives, by reason of the age and foulness of their combs, will be-
come less and less prolific and healthy every year? I answer, (and
the reader will be prepared for my answer from what has been already
written,) that every autumn, not later than the end of September, one
fourth or one fifth of the combs in each hive, (that is, the lower part
only to the depth of six or seven inches; for the upper part is
rarely used for breeding purposes, and therefore lasts a longer time,)
must be cut away, so that all the combs in every breeding hive shall
be renewed once in every four or five years. By this means,a stock
will maintain itself in perpetual youth and vigor, so long as straw and
binding will hold together. Mr. Taylor, following De Gelieu’s practice,
advises excision of comb in spring, (February or March,); to this I en-
tirely object, chiefly because of the weakness of bees at this season,
and the extreme hazard attending any such operation at this critical
period. It is true, the bees are confined to one part of the hive, and
nothing is more easy than to cut away almost any quantity of empty
comb—empty, that is, of brood. But these, perhaps, are, (as is gene-
rally the case,) the main honey depository of the hive, and possibly the
freshest combs, which it is least desirable to remove, and which may
have been renovated the year before; while the combs among which
the bees are congregated are full of eggs or brood, and cannot be med-
dled with on any account. It is, however, good practice to turn up
the hives in February, and cut away any mouldy or moth-eaten comb
that may be seen.

To sum up, I think every one will acknowledge at this point, that
the system of bee management advocated in this chapter is superior to
most others at present in vogue, on the ground of simplicity and profit.*
Its peculiarity consists chiefly in four points, which I conceive have
not hitherto been combined in any system. Ist, the perpetual
maintenance of a youthful and vigorous race of queen bees; 2ndly,
the entire suppression of all after swarming; 3rdly, the yearly plunder
of the prime swarms, instead of keeping them as winter stock; 4thly,
the preservation of the same stocks, for swarming purposes almost ex-
clusively, from year to year. It does seem passing strange, that in

* See Appendix, Note D.

40 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

the management of our bees on the cotiage plan, we should year by
year have systematically destroyed our young queens, and preferred
with more politeness than self-interest—with more politeness than is
generally to be found in us lords of the creation towards our dumb
fellow creatures—to give up to the bees the free enjoyment of their
more delicate stores, while remaining content ourselves with the more
worthless and less wholesome kind.

CHAPTER VI.

HIVES OF STRAW, SUITABLE TO AMATEUR BEE MANAGEMENT,

I nap originally introduced the subject of this sage among the ob-
servations on cott: gers’ hives, with which the reader has already. been
made acquainted; but it has since occurred to me that it would be
better treated of in a separate chapter, as an introduction to my sug-
gestions to the amateur. The fact is, however suited Mr. Payne's
hive may be to the pockets and capacities of the humbler class of bee
keepers, owing to its very slight deviation from the hive in common
use, it undoubtedly yields the palm of excellence by a great deal to
the Huish or Grecian hive, as modified by Mr. Golding, (which I con-
sider the ne plus ultra of bee domicile,) and even to several other kinds
of hives less perfect than Mr. Golding’s. Should any person, there-
fore, consider this hive, (and it need not be constructed at any very
great expense,) better adapted than the former to improved bee cul-
ture among the poor, and feel desirous of introducing it into common
use, let him by all means recommend it in preference.

Before I come to treat of Mr. Golding’s hive, I must say a few
words in favor of a hive of Mr. Taylor, which he recommends
in the fourth edition of his work, and of which he has given a sketch.
Its peculiar advantage is, that, simultaneously
with the removal of the top, every comb can be
lifted out of the hive, as well as any partial depriva-
tion of honey made. The hive is open at both
ends alike, and it has a moveable crown board of
doubled wood, each piece being not less than
three fourths of an inch in thickness. There is a
four-inch hole in it, (or as Mr. Taylor suggests,) if
preferred, two or three smaller ones. It will be
observed, on referring to the sketch, that the lesser and under part of
the crown board is cut away, so as to fall within the diameter of the

ce]

42 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

hive; the upper part being made an inch or more larger in diameter

so as to rest on the topmost band of the hive. My own hive of this
principle is, I think, somewhat an improvement on the above. The
crown board—which, like Mr. Taylor’s, is constructed of two pieces of
well-seasoned wood, planed smooth and glued together, (the grain of
the wood in one piece crossing the grain of the other, to prevent warp-
ing,) and having a four-inch hole in its centre—is not made to fit into
the hive’s inner diameter, but the two pieces of which it is composed
being made of exactly the same diameter, they together rest on the upper
edge of the hi¥e. This double board also
projects over the sides of the hive an inch
or more. There are two ways of fastening
it to the hive; either by passing three or
more long thin screws, (well greased to fa-
cilitate their removal,) through the board
into a stout hoop of two or three inches in
breadth, (which must be made to surround
the upper part of the hive,) provided this
hoop be thick enough; or by the use of hinges,
or rectangular pieces of iron, of which one
leaf is screwed to the under side of the
crown board, and the other to the outer side of the hoop. Two or three
of these will serve to keep the top firmly in its place, assisted by the
milk-pan cover, and their cost isa mere trifle. Besides the hoop of
wood just mentioned, (which I prefer to Mr. Taylor’s external band of
straw,) there should be a second hoop, half the breadth of the other,
worked into the lower edge or base of the hive. The method of ar-
ranging the top here proposed, gives many of the advantages, at the
same time that it avoids the extra expense, of Mr. Golding’s bar hive.
When it is desired to get at the interior, all that is requisite, after
driving out the bees, (temporarily or finally,) is to pass a long knife or
spatula, under the crown board all around, thus severing the combs
completely from it; after which, the screws at the side being with-
drawn, it will come off at once. The peculiar shape of the hive, sup-
posing it is intended as a substitute for Mr. Golding’s hive; that is,
wider at one end than at the other—renders something of this sort neces-
sary, as the combs cannot otherwise be got out entire, neither can any
partial deprivation of the honey take place, which will often be desira-

" THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 43

ble after a good season.* It is evident, also, that by this contrivance,
no more comb need be removed from the hive than is absolutely
wanted, whereas, if it were attempted, according to the old plan, to
partially deprive a stock, in order to get at the honey, the whole of
a comb must needs be cut away, and much of it wasted. Now, on
the contrary, it need not be even severed from the sides; but, after cut-
ting out a sufficiency of ceiled honey comb, say two or three inches
deep, the lower part may be left with advantage a clear gain to the
bees another year, who will quickly fill up the vacant space.

It is certain, however, after all, that no hives can equal, much less
surpass, Mr. Golding’s modification of the Huish or Grecian hive, which
gives to the apiarian the most perfect command at all times over every
movement of his bees. I would strongly advise the amateur, there-
fore, to use this in preference to evaxy other bee domicile, if he have
a just confidence in his skill and courage. Hives of this sort, should,
however, be constructed of two separate sizes, as those already de-
scribed by me in chapter IV, with one end of the hive an inch wider
in diameter than the other. The bars, of
which there may be about eight or nine,
are affixed to, and rest upon, the upper-
most band of straw, at the broader end of
the hive; these should be distant about half
an inch apart, each being three eighths of
an inch in thickness, and one inch and one ‘ :
eighth broad. They are kept in their places fpr Goxpine’s Hive.
by small pegs of wood, or iron brads, one
inch and a half long, which penetrate the straw at each end of the
bars. A band or hoop of wood, as in the former case, encircles the
upper part, firmly attached to the hive, but, (unlike the former,) pro-
jecting three eighths of an inch upwards, so as, in fact, to be on a level

* I think, as a general rule, not more than from 20 lbs, to 23 lbs. of honey should be allowed
for the winter provision of a stock of bees. More than this they are never likely to require ;
and what surplus they have, if in any quantity during the month previous to the swarm-
ing season, is merely an incumbrance, occupying room that ought to be taken up with
young grubs; on which account its presence may be considered a positive evil. Suppos-
ing, therefore, a hive intended for winter stock should attain to the weight of 50 Ibs. con-
tents, of which 42 lbs. is reckoned to be pure honey, as much as 16 lbs. may be safely re-
moved, but not more, as some few pounds are sure to be wasted in the process of depriva-
tion, or subsequently by the bees secreting wax ; for they will make an attempt to replace
the combs immediately.

44 THR COTTAGE AND FARM BER KEEPER.

with the bars, in order that the crown’ board, which may be of wood or
straw, with a large hole in it, may rest flat upon all. This, as in the
former instance, will be screwed to the hoop, whether by the use of
hinges, or long and well-greased screws let perpendicularly through it
into the hoop. The crown board also must be of doubled wood. A
little nicety is required in the careful adjustment of the several parts
of this hive, but this will be readily attended to by an intelligent
workman.

As soon as constructed, every sort of straw hive should receive two
coatings of thick paint, and be laid aside till wanted. It need hardly
be stated, that all hives likely to be wanted, should be got ready early
in the year, that the smell of paint may quite go off before use, asbees
are not unapt to leave newly-painted hives. Hvery winter should see
a fresh coat of paint given to dM the hives in an apiary; this will ma-
terially tend to their preservation for a good many years. Asa
sequel to these instructions, let me add, that a sufficient stock of both
sizes must be kept constantly on hand, to be in readiness at any mo-
ment; those of either size being made of exactly the same diameter,
particularly at their base, for facility in driving. There will, of course,
be required a greater number of the smaller size, two of which are
necessary to each summer, or spoliation colony.

These are the only hives that I at all recommend for an out-door
apiary. Of the use of Bowes in such a situation, even by the amateur,
I cannot speak too deprecatingly, save only of the very ingenious
double-bar hives, of Mr. Taylor’s invention; their expense, however,
will ever prove a serious objection to their general adoption; and I
am disposed to question even their perfect suitability to stand the vi-
cissitudes of our English climate, with comfort to the bees, and profit to
their owner. Itis universally allowed that Mr. Nutt’s hives have proved
a signal failure, wherever located in the open air; in proof whereof, it
is only necessary to point to the infinite modifications which the prin-
ciple of their construction has undergone to suit each person’s experi-
ence, and to remedy its thousand inconveniences and defects. AndI
think, if the truth were known, many a complaint has arisen, and will
yet arise, against even Mr, Taylor's hives of wood. It stands to rea-
gon, that wooden boxes, unprotected by a bee shed, are both too cold
in winter, and too hot in summer, for an exposed situation ; hence the
almost universal outcry against them throughout the length arid breadth
of the land.

CHAPTER VII.

THE AMATEUR SYSTEM OF BEE MANAGEMENT IN THE OPEN AIR.

In the fifth chapter of this volume, where I entered into a detail of the
cottage system which I approve and: advocate, it will have been ob-
served that I have studiously ignored and carefully avoided to recom-
mend the non-swarming or depriving system, as it is practised by ma-
ny,of our scientific apiarians, I have done so advisedly, from a per-
suasion that it is wholly unsuited to cottagers in general ; indeed, how
often does the ingenuity and skill requisite to its successful manage-
ment baffle the best endeavors even of the better instructed amateur
to master it! Not only so, however, I cannot say that I am disposed
under any circumstances, to advocate the depriving system, in its in-
tegrity, as adapted to out-door apiaries. The situation must be very
snug indeed—the shelter from storm and wind most perfect—which
will effectually remove the anxious fears of the owner of a tripled or
quadrupled storified colony during the prevalence of a strong gale.
There must be a perpetual vigilance on his part, lest some untoward
and unforeseen accident should arise to mar his hopes by endangering
his aspiring structure. If even Mr. Taylor’s bar hives are scarcely
proof against misfortune, how much less so are the not seldom ill-arran-
ged erections of straw which one generally sees! Certainly the novice
should have nothing to do with them, -except he have a bee house in
which to place them. Whether to the amateur or cottager, therefore,
who may prefer, from whatever cause, the establishment of a garden
apiary, my advice is the same—be content with a modification of the
depriving system, similar to that already described; it will be found a
much safer and more easy method of hee-keeping; nor am I certain
that such a method would be found a whit less productive and remu-
nerating than the much-vaunted non-swarming system. The glasses

46 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

which may be filled by his populous stocks before swarming, and the
- produce of his yearling or spoliation swarms, will, I am persuaded, be
found as great, or nearly so, as if he had piled box on box or hive on
hive ;* while he will be able to maintain his stocks in perpetual vigor,
which the advocate of the depriving system will hardly be able to do,
except at a disadvantage.

The plan, therefore, which I am about to recommend in this chapter
to the especial notice of the amateur is not diverse in its main features
from that suggested to the cottager. It is the same in respect to the
size and shape of the several sorts of hives, differing only in the use
of bars and a moveable top; it is the same in its apparatus of shelter
from the weather ; the same in the after treatment of casts and swarms;
the same in the selection of winter stock; in the system of comb re-
newal; of changing and cleansing of boards; of winter protection;
of harvesting honey, &c., &c. ‘In these general matters, no different
plan do I now propose; both systems have similar features of simplic-
ity and economy of management thus far, while both promise equally
well in the matter of profit.

To the amateur, however, whose intelligence we may suppose to be
of a higher kind than that of the cottager, and whose facilities for car-
tying out interesting and delicate experiments are greater, owing to
command of time and opportunity, I would suggest the management
of his swarms according to the artificial system, by which, if I mistake
not, he will gain several very important advantages. I am aware that,
however I may have been patiently followed up to this point, my book
is now in danger of being condemned by the old-fashioned and stand-
still bee master, who, true to the character which Horace gives, is now,
as in ancient times, a laudator temporis acti, [a praiser of past times,]
whose prejudices are ever prone to carry him back to the days of his
great grandfather, instead of forward to the improving age of more
experienced posterity. Nevertheless, I persist in my recommendation,
being convinced of its practicability and value.

* It will possibly, though very rarely, happen, that the use of a third hive may seem re-
quisite, as when the season is remarkably good, or a swarm unusually large. So averse
am I, however, to resort to this, that I should rather advise the use of a super of the larger
sort, instead of the smaller size, (as recommended for spoliation swarms,) which would no
doubt fully meet every emergency. It should be set over the swarm shortly after the bees
have begun to work in earnest.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BER KEEPER. 47

That a process so obviously advantageous as this, if it can only be
proved feasible in general, and successful as feasible, should yet have
been so little noticed, or its probable uses so little tested, is a matter
of no small marvel to me, especially when we consider that most bee
writers have professed themselves acquainted with it, and we have not
been wanting in apiarians of scientific attainments, animated by a
spirit of curious inquiry. De Gelieu tells us, that in his time, the prac-
tice of artificial swarming on a most elaborate principle was common
enough in Germany at the close of the last century—thanks to the
industry. of M. Shirach in propagating his views and system of bee
management—so that persons bred up to the business used to wander
about from village to village, in the season, managing the considerable
apiaries of the country people in this way. This proves the recogni-
tion of the value of the principle by the Germans, and I see no reason
why it should be unrecognised among ourselves. If the Germans
found their method of conducting the process answer, and were not
deterred from adopting it in spite of its complexity, why should it be
too difficult for us? Moreover, the process has become so simplified
of late years, that the veriest novice can understand and manage it.

I believe we are indebted to Bonner, the celebrated Scotch apiarian,
for having first introduced the subject to public notice in England.
His work was reviewed by Keys, who makes some passing observa-
tions on his particular method, and acknowledges its ingenuity. Keys
himself, who was on the point of publishing the second edition of his
book just as Bonner’s work issued from the press, has given us two
methods of forming artificial swarms, in such vague language, how-
ever, (as sufficiently betrays his practical ignorance of what he wrote
about,) that he has most justly pronounced against them, that ‘“ they
are inapplicable to general practice,” Bonner’s method was far more
“ingenious,” as Keys allows, and, indeed, it may be considered the
original of the method hereafter to be detailed. To this must yield
even the plan advocated and recommended by Dr, Bevan, a great au-
thority in most apiarian matters. Bonner’s plan is the foundation of,
the method which appears to have been practised with much success
by the late Dr, Scudamore, a physician of Canterbury, who wrote a
little book on the subject of artificial swarms, not long ago, which has
seen two editions, and to which I acknowledge myself indebted for
the outline of the plan recommended in these pages, and of much of

48 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

its detail. His pamphlet, though small, is exceedingly to the point;
and I think all scientific apiarians owe him a debt of gratitude for that
little work. The result of my experience during the summer of 1850,
when I assisted in forming for myself and others some seven or eight
such swarms, in accordance with. its instructions, has convinced me
that the artificial management of an apiary, (if it may be so called,) is
perfectly easy, and may be had recourse to most successfully, although
not every instruction given in that book is to be absolutely relied on
or followed. A modification of it, however, will, in the hands of'a spir-
ited bee master, be found very susceasil, I am not at all sanguine,
however—desirable and extremely interesting and profitable too as
the process may be—that it will become generally adopted, at: least,
for a long time to come, if we take into consideration the considerable
acquaihtance with the economy of the hive and the habits of bees,
which is necessary to success in this matter; when also we know that
the great majority of bee keepers in this country are about as ignorant
of what passes on in the interior of a hive as of the occupation of the
man in the moon. In the case of any emergency arising, (and it need
not be a very uncommon one,) most bee keepers are at fault. Hence,
old Bonner’s observations were perfectly true, that, however “ profit-
able the driving of bees to make artificial swarms may be, when prop-
erly performed by skillful bee masters, yet it always has been, and ever
will be, destructive to bees if performed by unskillful persons.” I
would wish it to be clearly understood, therefore, that I by no means
recommend the indiscriminate adoption of this practice by those who
are still in the infancy of their knowledge of the bee art. This chap-
ter must be considered as addressed esoterically to the initiated, or at
least to those who are passionate admirers of the honey bee; and these
are not usually such as are contented to remain on the threshold, as it
were, of their favorite recreative pursuit.

To proceed then—the best time for the formation of artificial swarms
will depend upon two things; the state of the season, and the condition
-of the stock to be operated upon,

When the spring is early and the weather propitious, a swarm may
be forced to issue, without danger to the prosperity of either swarm
or parent hive, as early as towards the close of April. Instances are
on record of the issue of natural swarms as early as this; and nature
is no bad guide to follow in our imitation or conduct artificially of any

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 49

of her processes. But the season must be remarkably forward, indeed,
which witnesses such an occurrence in this country, or else some de-
fect will be found to exist in the hive whence the issue takes place ;
whether from the existence of the wax moth, the presence of very
old comb, or some similar cause. Neither when such does occur is it
often that the bee master can congratulate himself upon the cir-
cumstance, for it is not the earliest swarm which is on that account
the best. Whatever the bees may do naturally, however, I should
recommend the forcing of swarms artificially to be delayed till after
the second week in May under any circumstances, because of the well-
known fickleness of the season at that period of the year, and the
chances of starvation and other evils endangering the very existence
of both issued swarm and parent stock from chilling’ rains or bluster-
ing weather. Indeed, it is better to wait till after the third week of
this month is over, (except in a remarkably fine and early season,)
even though the stock should appear otherwise ready for it. I have
observed that very early swarms, even in May, do not in general pros-
per so well as those that have proceeded later in the month. It would
seem as if, the first anxious start of the hive having been checked by
unseasonable weather, the bees’ ardor had become cooled and their
spirits discouraged, so that on the return of really propitious weather
they have no heart to work with the same diligence as other swarms
which have issued in the very midst of the busy season. Perhaps the
most suitable time of any, other things considered,) presents with the
first considerable collection of honey. As soon as the weather from
being cold or chilly has changed to a temperature of a close thundery
nature, when honey is sure to abound, (at which time every good stock
will about have reached its climax of vigor for the year, though this
does not usually take place till towards the end of May,) let the ope-
ration be performed if the bees have not themselves swarmed natu-
rally. I lay great stress upon waiting till this moment, if circumstan-
ces allow the bee master to wait so long, because no sooner does
honey abound, than the bees greatly slight the queen’s convenience.
She is still, it may be, as desirous as ever to lay her eggs, (nay, per-
haps, more so—for I am not one of those who think the queen bee
relaxes her deposit of eggs after what is called her “ great laying” is
over); but another instinct besides that of preservation of their spe-
cies occupies the bees’ attention, namely, that of preparation for a day
ct

50 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

of scarcity, so that in the all-absorbing search for, and storing of, honey,
the breeding space of the hive becomes rapidly contracted.* It is ev-
ident, therefore, that now, on the eve of honey-gathering, is the most
suitable moment for the forcing of artificial swarms. Every comb is
at this time full of brood, which will ensure the after prosperity of the
hive, while such an abounding population has been hatched already,
as to hold out the prospect of a rich autumn spoliation of the early
one.

The criterion of preparedness for experiment on the part of a stock
is various. First, there must be an abounding and vigorously-working
population, thronging the entrance in warm weather—sometimes it
may be hanging in clusters from the alighting board ;+ and secondly,

* See Appendix, Note E.

} The clustering of bees outside the hive—though it may sometimes occur immediately
on a change of weather, as from cold to heat—usually takes place gradually, and some days
after the occurrence of the change. It isa sign in general that swarming, whether artifi-
cial or natural, has been retarded too long, or, at least, that the former should be had re-
course to immediately. If the plan of forcing them be adopted, as recommended above,
great care must be taken in manipulating the parent hive, for the temperature of the stock,
under such cireumstances—it being densely filled with a teeming population—is usually
very high, on which account there exists much danger of the combs giving way. If, there-
fore, a hive has been suffered, from neglect or other unavoidable cause, to proceed to this con-
dition, and the bees hang out in great numbers, perhaps Dr. Bevan’s plan may be had recourse
to in preference to any other method. ‘Towards noon of a fine day, (says that celebrated
apiarian,) or almost at any time, let the stock hive be removed to a distance, and a spare hive
(such as a Golding’s bar hive) be put in its place, to one bar of which (taken out of a
similar bar hive, if there are any such in the apiary—a fresh bar being given to the stock
from which it was taken) is attached a comb containing worker bees’ eggs, or very young
larva of the same order, (but there should be eggs in every case, I think;) the out-liers, or
the bees that are abroad, or both, as the case may be, will then enter the new habitation,
cluster round the brood, construct one or more royal cells to inclose one or more of the eggs
to raise a young sovereign. If the season be favorable, they will thus form a flourishing
stock, whilst the old removed family, with beneficially diminished numbers, will soon be
reconciled to their new situation, and attend to their usual avocations as if nothing had
happened.” Or still better, perhaps, (because the removal of a whole comb from another
hive might check its tendency to swarm,) I advise the use of a bee-glass, four inches in di-
ameter, into which a piece of worker comb is introduced, set over the hole at the top of the
new hive. The process of rearing a queen artificially before the eyes of the bee master,
will form an interesting feature in the apiarian memoranda of the year. Dr. Bevan con-
tinues: ‘The brood comb, which should not be less than two or three inches in diameter,
may be supplied from any hive that can spare it; but if not taken from a loose-barred
hive of suitable dimensions, it may be separated from its original attachments ;” that is,
cut out of any comb in any hive, and adjusted anyhow in the bee glass, or against the
side of the hive which the new swarm is intended tv occupy.- The bees will soon glue it

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 51

the presence of drones is requisite in considerable force. As soon, in-
deed, as it is ascertained that these exist in any number in a hive, even
if still unhatched, the operation may be performed without fear of ill
success, although, to insure the full prosperity of both swarm and pa-
rent stock, (especially the latter,) a good many of them ought first to
be seen coursing about in the open air, which they will be sure to do
in the middle of every warm day, some time between the hours of 10
A. Mand 4 Pp. M.

The desirableness of delay till these appear in sufficient numbers, is
based on the following considerations :—It is known that in general,
about the 20th day after the queen has begun her great laying of drone
eggs, the bees, if they deem it necessary, (either from foresight of her
majesty’s approaching end, or of the probability of an excess of pop-
ulation over the hive accommodation,) commence the foundations of
royal cells, into each of which the queen, if her judgment coincides
with that of her subjects, deposits a female egg, with a certain interval
between each. The first royal egg, however, is seldom laid till many
drones are preparing to leave their cells, often not till some have actu-
ally appeared in the open air. The reasonableness, therefore, of wait-
ing till at least a week has elapsed after the first appearance of drones,
before compelling the issue of an artificial swarm, is at once evident,
as it is desirable that one or more royal eggs should at least be Jaid in
the hive before the queen mother leaves it, as well to spare the re-
maining bees the trouble of raising a sovereign artificially, (which is
further injurious to the prosperity of the hive, owing to the time that
must elapse before any brood can be perfected in it,) as to prevent the
liability of accident arising from the possible absence of eggs or suit-
able brood wherewith to raise such a queen.

Let us then suppose that the amateur bee keeper has formed the
conclusion that one of his stocks is in a sufficiently forward state to be
operated upon—from the appearance of drones, the abundance of pop-
ulation, &c., and also that a favorable opportunity presents in the

firmly i in its place with wax and propolis. If this method of artificial swarming be adop-
ted, the new stock so made, having a young queen, should by all means, if heavy enough,
be preserved to another year. In this case, the old hive, if it be a Grecian one, should imme-
diately be surmounted by a spare super or large bee glass, and be treated in the autumn as
a yearling swarm. Should it show symptoms of swarming, drive out the bees, cut every
royal cell away, and return the population.

52 THE TOTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPFR.

state of the weather, which ought absolutely to be perfectly calm—
the golden hour is arrived; let him sally forth to his apiary. The
cloudier the day the better; if the sun shines, however, let the opera-
tion be conducted in the shade of some friendly wall or overhanging
tree.

There ought generally to be two persons assisting in the operation,
both well armed with bee dress and gloves; for this is sometimes a
business of no little peril, although in most cases I have found the
bees remarkably quiet. The instinct of loyalty, or the passion of fear,
seems at such times to neutralise all Other passions and instincts. Ev-
ery article requisite for the operation of driving having also been pro-
vided, and lying by ready for use, let the business be opened, (say at
about 10 o'clock, a. m.,) by the chief operator seizing hold of the full
hive, which must be very carefully and gently adjusted bottom up-
wards in a pail, while the assistant replaces it instantly with an empty
hive, to amuse the bees, as they come back from the fields, and those
also which may chance to escape during the process which follows.
A second empty hive is now placed over the full one reversed, the
cloth thrown over both, and tied securely round; after which, drum-
ming with sticks is resorted to until the bees have hummed themselves
up into their temporary attic; in short, the same treatment is adopted
as in the process of autumnal driving already described. The greatest
care, however, must be taken throughout to avoid the slightest jar or
concussion of the full hive, both in moving it and drumming it after-
wards, so as in no way to endanger the breaking of the combs inside.
These being mostly heavy with brood, the heat of the hive, too, being
very great, (often above 100° F.,) any violent handling would be sure
to dislodge some of them.* When it becomes evident, by the loud
humming within, that the bees have begun to climb, in which case
the queen is almost sure to be with them, let the upper hive be taken
off. Ten minutes, or even less, will generally suffice for the operation
at this time; because it is desirable to leave a considerable quantity
of bees behind in the old hive to hatch out the remaining brood.
When taken off, the hive into which the bees have ascended, if it is
the intended permanent dwelling of the bees, must be placed on a
bottom board, and set as near as may be to the old stand, on a stool

* See Appendix, Note F.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BER KEEPER. 53

or table—not on the stand itself, to avoid crushing any of the throng-
ing bees about it. In a few minutes, if the queen be in it, all the out-
lying insects—those, I mean, whicli have returned from the fields, and
have hitherto been busied in searching for their home and their queen
—will have joyously entered it. Towards evening, it may be put on
the stand from which the old hive was taken. Should it be desired
to settle the bees in another hive than that in which they were driven,
(and I advise the use of the smaller double hive for autumn spoliation,
see Chapter IV,) all that is required, is to knock them out en masse
upon the ground in front of the hive, which ought before to have been
set, (likewise on the ground,) on its own board, one side of it also be-
ing slightly elevated on wedges. When the major part of the swarm
have crept up into it, let it be gently removed to a position near to
the old stand, and treated as in the other case.

While one person is thus employed, let the other, immediately on
seeing the upper hive taken off, turn the old hive upon a bottom board,
and, should he perceive neither too many nor too few bees in it, carry
it to a distant and shady part of the garden, or to its intended stand,
where, however, it must be kept as cool as possible. Without loss of
time, in order to prevent the escape of too many bees, let him tie it
up with the list bandage, previously thrusting a few pieces of slate
under the edge of the hive, to allow of the admission of air. In this
state, it must remain till the third morning, early, when the list band-
age may be unfastened. An immediate rush of bees will take place,
some of whom will find their way back to their old locality, now oc-
cupied by the new swarm; nor is it to be considered a misfortune that
they should do so, as they will beneficially strengthen it. The most
part, however, will certainly return back again to the old hive on the
new stand, which will in a few days seem as populous as ever, owing
to the rapid development of brood.

Should it have been found, however, on removing the upper hive,
that only a few have ascended into it, then must it be first ascertained
if the queen is among them. This will quickly appear by knocking
them out in front of their intended dwelling; for, while they will
march readily up into it,if she is with them, they will, on the other
hand, missing her, soon be in a fever of anxiety and restlessness. In
the former case, set the new hive on the old stand at once, while the
old hive is removed, but to a greater distance, and treated as before,

54 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

only, instead of tying it up, the bees must be suffered to escape from
it until the new swarm is strengthened sufficiently, after which it may
be tied up till the third morning. . Should it appear, however, that the
queen is not among them, take two of the combs from the old hive,
which seem fullest of eggs and young brood; next arrange these in
the new hive, leaning one against another, or against the side, but in
such amanner that, on the introduction of the bees, these combs shall not
possibly fall down flat. The best way to do this, is to remove the top
from the hive, (which must be set first on its board,) replacing it after
the combs have been well disposed inside. Now carry the hive, board
and all, to the old stand, and either slide it on the pedestal, to avoid
crushing any of the bees, which will be sure to throng it, or else put
it on a stool close by. In a few minutes, the agitated bees will scent
it out, and speedily take possession. The old hive, in this case, must
not be closed at all, in order to facilitate as much as possible the es-
cape of the bees, many of whom will fly off straight to the old place,
now occupied by the new swarm. These will proceed forthwith to
rear a queen artificially. It might be an advantage, perhaps, to tie
up the old hive, unfastening the bandage every now and then, fora
few minutes at atime. In this case, many bees would escape, and
not being able to return, would naturally stay with the new swarm,
if not previously disposed to do so.

Or if this plan be thought too difficult and hazardous, the old hive
must be replaced upon its stand till another opportunity occurs. In
either case the emergency which will require this treatment is a rare
one, as in nineteen instances in twenty the bees will readily follow
their queen, who on her side will as readily ascend.

Again, should too many ascend on the first driving, (and, if possible,
two or three thousand bees should be left to feed the young brood,
and attend generally to the business of the hive,) let the old stock be
replaced on its wonted stand for afew minutes, until a sufficient num-
ber of bees shall have entered into it. It may then be tied up as it
stands on the board, and board and all be removed to the place inten-
ded for it; the new swarm on a fresh board may then be substituted
for it in the manner already pointed out. This treatment will be found
most efficacious in dividing the population of the old stock in its due
proportions.

Let us suppose, however, that everything succeeded well accord-

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 55

ing to the method first detailed, What, it may be asked, is the several
condition of the two hives? In the new hive on the old stand is, or
ought to be, a powerful swarm of more than ordinary size, which, being
formed in the prime of the year, will work with astonishing vigor,
and increase rapidly in weight. This is what I have before termed
the spoliation swarm, whose entire plunder will take place about the
first week in August, if put into a small hive, and not intended for
preservation. Shortly after its establishment, that is, some time in the
course of the next week, it must be surmounted by another hive or
super of about the same dimensions in ordinary seasons. In the old
stock is no queen at present; but, doubtless, royal nymphs, or larvee,
of various ages, one or other of which will succeed to the vacant sov-
ereignty of the hive in a few days, if the swarm were forced at the
proper time. When the bandage is unfastened on the third morning,
the bees by that time will long have ceased to forget their old queen,
their whole attention being now given to the wants of the rising
brood of royalty on which their hopes depend. If there chanced to
be no royal brood, (as it is always desirable there should be,) they
will already have set about rearing a queen artificially. Could the
interior of the hive be seen at this time, the rudiments of three or
more royal cells would be distinguished rising out of the centre of the
combs in different parts of the hive. I presume that in the present
day there are no sceptics to be found as to this singular fact in the
history of the bee—their power, I mean, to transform a worker egg
or worm into a queen. Should any such be a reader of these pages,
I can give him distinct assurange, that no less than three several instan-
ces of the rearing of artificial queens came under my notice last sum-
mer, and there are many witnesses to the fact.

We will now follow the after treatment of these stocks. The new
swarm, (if intended for autumn plunder,) must be shortly enlarged by
additional hive room, and treated in general exactly in the manner
already pointed out in a former chapter for the management of year-
ling or spoliation swarms.*

With respect to the old hive, out of which the old queen was driven,
together with the prime swarm, I differ from Dr. Scudamore as to the
best method in which it should be dealt with. His instructions on

* See Appendix, Note G.

56 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

this point are not very clear; at least, he gives us to suppose, that at
the end of fourteen or sixteen days, the hive will be ready for forcing
the second swarm, all the brood, with the exception, perhaps, of a few
drones, having been hatched out. Now, if the old queen was laying
up to the very eve of her departure from the hive, there will still be
left unhatched all the brood from the eggs that were laid during the
five or seven days last previous to her expulsion, whether drone or
worker*; that is, from 1,000 to 5,000 bees, according to the size of the
hive and the state of the season—a number in either case too consid-
erable to be lost. Moreover, if the young queen had to be reared
artificially, she would probably not have issued from her cell by this
time; and at least twenty days ought, I think, to be allowed for her
to gain the necessary strength before her expulsion in turn. On the
other hand, if, (as is much to be desired) the young queen were ready
to leave her cell shortly after the removal of the old mother, there is
every probability of a still greater breadth of comb being occupied with
eggs laid by her, which the bee master will be equally loath to destroy.
For these reasons, and for others far more weighty, (see what I have
said on this point in Chapter V,) I do not advise the forcing or suffer-
ing the issue of any second swarm at all. Instead thereof, I would
recommend that the old hive, having a young queen, be kept as it is
for winter stock. In this case, it will be treated in a precisely similar
manner to that described for the management of his old hives by the
cottager, (see Chapter V). Should a cast issue naturally, for instance,
(which is not very likely,) it should be returned at once, after exci-
sion of all the royal cells that can be got at. Dr. Scudamore gives an
additional reason for his recommendation of artificial cast-forcing,
namely, that the plunder of the old hive at this time would put the bee
master in possession of an early harvest at the best season of the year.
But the quantity of honey gained will be but a poor compensation for
the expenditure of honey by the bees in the construction of fresh
comb in a new hive, which might otherwise be stored away in large
abundance against the approach of winter in the old one, thus forming
a good and useful stock for another year, while the honey itself, being
stored in old comb, would be but of little comparative value to the

* And there are always more worker than drone eggs. It is a fallacy to suppose that the
queen lays drone eggs exclusively, (or even principally,) at any period of the year.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 57

bee master. If the consumption of honey in the elaboration of wax
is anything so considerable as I make it out to be,* it certainly is a
most suicidal policy to break up a hive whose comb is still good for
breeding purposes, for the sake of five or six, or even ten pounds of
inferior honey! I advise, therefore, that, after the early swarm has
been forced out, which may be encouraged to its greatest possible
strength by suffering nine tenths of the bees to leave the old hive with
it, this latter be suffered to stand over to another year as a winter
stock. A prime swarm so formed ought to yield an autumn spoil, in
an average good year, of from 30 to 60 Ibs. of virgin honey; and
if its weight, on issuing from the hive, exceeded six pounds, which it
not seldom will do, it may often greatly exceed the largest of these
figures, while the old stock may be expected to weigh from 25 to
30 Ibs. net contents, the Michaelmas, [September 29th] following, at
which time a comb or two, (that is, the lower part of those combs,)
may be cut away with advantage, to facilitate the renovation of the
hive. As to the renewal of comb, it might be effected in a different
and, perhaps, still better way. Suppose at the end of three weeks,
after the first swarm’s issue, (or earlier, as the case may be,) the bees
are driven out for a few minutes, part of the combs, (which will now
for the most part, if not altogether, be empty of brood,) may be re-
moved at once thus early in the season; this would probably have the
effect of stimulating the bees in it to renewed activity, so that there
would be no gapt among the combs through the winter, as might be
the case otherwise, while probably the weight of honey would not be
much less than in the former instance. I have observed that the
existence of unfilled space in their hive not a little warms up the bee’s
energy, whether it be in spring, summer, or autumn.

To return to the apiary, it is evident that in a good season the bee
master may not only obtain a famous harvest from the autumn plun-
der of his spoliation swarms, (especially if they were formed at the
right time, and were strong in population); but he may also get from
them several small hives or glasses full of the purest honeycomb in
addition. Even the old stocks will sometimes, though less rarely,

* See Appendix, Note H.
+ And yet I am disposed to believe that a vacuum of air in the hive has a tendency to
keep bees in good health through the winter; and it certainly promotes early activity.

58 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

afford a handsome glass to grace his breakfast table, besides laying up
for themselves an abundant winter store. Here then will be seen the
advantage of the hole at the top of my Golding’s hive, over which
some additional store room can be placed, (with or without the use of
an adapter,) by which means the removal of the crown piece of wood
or straw is rendered unnecessary. The room supplied must, however,
be determined by circumstances of locality, season, and strength of
population. As to the time when such room additional should be
given, I refer the reader for instruction to Chapter V, of this book.
In the same chapter, also, will be found full directions for the manage-
ment of his hives in autumn and winter. In no material respect will
the proceedings of the cottager and amateur be different in these par-
ticulars.

Where the system of management advocated in these pages is pur-
sued, and the prime swarms of the season, when plundered, are reuni-
ted to the stocks from which they severally issued, the value of the
advice given in Chapter II, with respect to the arrangement of hives,
will be very apparent at the season of the autumnal harvest. I repeat
here, therefore, that both stock and swarm should stand as near to-
gether as possible—say about one foot and a half distant from each
other, but distant from all other stocks at least three and a half or four
feet. But for an arrangement of this kind, 'the apiary would be in an
uproar every autumn from the invasion of their neighbors’ hives, by
the inmates of the plundered swarms; whereas they will now readily
and peaceably unite with their parent stocks, for which they will not
have far to search. It were an improvement, perhaps, instead of hav-
ing a separate stand for each stock, to use what Mr. Taylor calls a
hive ramge, (see Bee Keeper’s Manual, page 32, 4th edition,) from two
and a half to three feet long, to accommodate each couplet of hives.
Thus, after effecting the union, (the two hives, parent and swarm, hav-
ing stood side by side on this range all the summer,) the old hive might
be slid a little to the right or left, so as to occupy the middle of the
range half way between the position previously occupied by the hives.
It would, in this case, be requisite to move the stock back in winter
to the extremity of the range, so that the swarm of the following
spring might stand at the proper distance from it. -

Should much brood be found on examining the prime swarms when
they come to be taken up, by all means let it be carefully preserved,

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 59

for it must be borne in mind, that it is ¢his very brood, (and not so
much the bees actually driven from it, especially if the driving take
place early in the autumn,) that will live out the winter, and assist most
tn advancing the prosperity of the hive to which it is added the following
spring. To preserve it, therefore, let the following instructions be
closely attended to, which are somewhat different to those recommen-
ded to the cottager. When most of the bees have been driven from
the hive, and united to the parent stock, let the top be removed, and
each bar of the hive lifted out, having previously passed a knife under
it, so as to sever the comb below from its attachments to it. All the bars
being lifted out, proceed to cut out of the hive as much of every comb
as contains honey, taking care not to cut quite down to the part which
contains the brood; indeed, it is well to cut out no more comb than
is actually honeyful. This being done, (and the quicker the better,
that the brood comb may not grow cold,) let the hive be set over the
stock to which the bees out of it have already been joined. They
will quickly cluster over the remaining comb, carry below what little
honey they may find in it, and hatch out the brood. In this way, the
* winter stock will be most beneficially strengthened with large promise
for the future. Three weeks later, (or in less time if the brood were .
not very young,) the upper hive may be removed, and the stock below
set in order for the winter season. If not more than three or four
inches deep of honeycomb have been cut away from the upper part
of the hive beneath the bars, the now empty combs, (if still fresh and
good; that is, not more than two or three years old,) may be pre-
served with advantage; they will prove a most valuable boon toa
prime swarm of the following spring, and will most materially, not
merely assist its own profitable advancement, but also increase the next
year's honey harvest.of the bee owner. The hive must, of course, be
carefully stowed away, and covered up in a dry place, to keep it fresh
and sweet, and safe from the invasion of the prying and destructive
wax moth. Should more than four inches deep of comb have been
cut away, what remains had better, perhaps, be removed altogether
and melted down, because the bees, to whom it might chance to be
given the next year, would very likely not elevate their new works
sufficiently, (for in this case they work upwards,) to touch the bars,
and there secure them, before the weight of the new structure, (honey
laden,) causes it to incline out of the perpendicular, and, perhaps, to

60 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

fall altogether; all danger of this would, however, be avoided, if some

portion of comb were left attached to the bars, or subsequently applied

to them; for in this case the bees would build downwards as well as’
upwards, and so meet the rising works half way. It cannot be too

carefully borne in mind, in all hive manipulations, that wax is a most

expensive article in the economy of bee architecture, though its value

is but trifling in the market; every saving of it, therefore, is impor-

tant. The most useful combs, undoubtedly, are the centre ones; and

these will generally be found more empty than the others, at least, in

the middle part.

In conclusion, I cannot do better than introduce an extract from
Dr. Scudamore’s work, by way of showing how many and great are
the advantages to be derived from a systematic adoption of the artifi-
cial system, though I doubt not many of my readers will have discov-
ered not afew already:

“There is no certainty,” he writes, “of the time when this, (the ex-
pected rising of natural swarms,) will take place, by reason of
several causes, some of which may prevent it altogether; and the in-
conveniences to which the proprietors are liable, who do not form ar-
tificial swarms, are consequently many. first, they are obliged to
watch the departure of swarms very assiduously for six weeks, and
sometimes much longer; whatever attention may be made by persons
entrusted with this care, many swarms fly away, which it is impossi-
ble to arrest. It has been calculated by a great bee keeper, that a
fourth part of the best swarms are usually lost in this manner. Sec-
ondly, he who has a small number of hives, is obliged to watch them
with the same assiduity as if he had more; and he who has a greater
number is often much embarrassed, because it is no unusual thing to
see several swarms go off at the same instant; some escape on one side,
and some on another, or unite themselves together. Thirdly, a cold
and rainy time, which may happen at the moment when swarms are
disposed to come forth, often prevents the bees from swarming. And
further, swarms may issue at times when one wishes to be otherwise
engaged; and, on the other hand, although the proprietor may be
present, his swarms may choose to settle in places where it is difficult
to hive them. Now, it is easy to imagine, and still worse to experience
some of these difficulties . . . were it alwaysso, (that swarms issued
regularly, and settled suitably, and in good time,) all would be well,

BY

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 61

and it would be unnecessary to interfere, or in anywise to anticipate,
the gratifying spectacle of a natural swarm. But the vicissitudes of
our climate are so frequent, ever varying and ever changing still; so
sudden, and sometimes so extraordinary; smiling now, and now
frowning again, aye, as coquettish and uncertain as the youthful maid-
en; that the bee master, in trusting to the processes of nature, more
frequently finds his best wishes annihilated, and the golden hours of
spring dwindled and frittered away, ere his swarms have come forth;
and a few weeks of summer remaining, barely suffice for the gathering -
of honey, ere the cold nights of autumn, and the approaches of winter,
close in the scene.”

CHAPTER VIII.

OF BOXES, ETO., SUITABLE FOR AN IN-DOOR APIARY.

TaerE can be no doubt whatever, that hives of wood are preferable to
hives of straw, for many reasons, where so situated as to be sheltered
from the effects of both heat and cold; hence their universal adoption
by the best and most successful amateur apiarians.

“The best wood for them,” says Dr. Bevan, “is red cedar, the fra-
grance of which is regarded by some as agreeable to the bees; but the
chief grounds of preference are its lightness and sponginess, (whence
it is a bad conductor of heat,) and its effect in keeping moths out of
the boxes. Whatever kind of wood be made use of, it should be well
seasoned; yellow deal answers the purpose very well.” In making
the boxes, Mr. Taylor judiciously advises that they be ‘‘ well put to-
gether, observing that the grain of the wood alway’ runs in the hori-
zontal direction, when its tendency to expansion or contraction is ren-
dered of no importance.” The size which he recommends, I think, how-
ever, too small for the stock or breeding hive. Instead of “ eleven inches
square,’ I would recommend twelve or thirteen, and from eight to
-nine inches high, inside measure; the thickness of the wood through-
out being “ not legs than an inch, or, if exposed, a little thicker.”

In my own apiary, I prefer the collateral system, or, I should rather
say, I adopt a combination of both the collateral and storifying
methods; for while I use two boxes collaterally, it is my practice to
place several large glasses at a time each over its hole on the top of
the stock box; as I have always found that bees work more readily
over their breeding hive than at its side; at the same time, to afford
them abundance of room, without giving them the labor of ascending
to a second or third story, I use one side box to each colony.

It will be found in general, that two such boxes afford ample accom-
modation for the largest population that can be reared on the depriv-

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 63

ing system, if together with their use, room additional be supplied as fast
as the bees require it, by giving them three or four bee glasses, from six
to eight inches in diameter, (or several smaller ones,) at a time. To
furnish space for the glasses, which must communicate every one with
the stock box, each by its peculiar hole, (for the bees are usually very
much indisposed to work over a side box, though I have known them
‘do so,) it will be found advantageous to use an adapter of thin ma~
hogany or cedar—woods that are least given to warp—(if deal is used,
it should be framed,) from fourteen to sixteen inches in diameter.
There must be pierced in it, four holes, each two inches in diameter,
exactly corresponding with four holes, (more or less,) on the top of
the box over which it is placed. Two or three long screws will keep
it firmly in its position, only let them be well greased, to facilitate their
removal, This adapter, (which, by the way, must not project over the
side bow,) is only for temporary use in summer, in the working months;
after July, therefore, if done with, it may be removed. By this means,
room for the storing of between 25 to 35 lbs. or more of honey
may be supplied at the top, not to speak of the side box, which may
hold at least 60 Ibs. more; and the season must be good indeed, and
the bees amazingly numerous, to require more hive room than this.

Each of my boxes, which are made of exactly the same dimensions, so
as to be shifted, if need be, from one colony to another, (this is, how-
ever, of more importance in the case of straw hives than of boxes,)
has three windows—and I see no reason why it should not have four
—made as large as possible consistently with a due regard to the
strength of the box. A door, fixed on hinges, closes neatly over the
glass in each window, and it effectually excludes the light, as the glass
is fitted in a rabbet with putty. The rabbet should be as shallow as
possible, that the inside of the hive may be perfectly plain, for the fa-
cility of cutting out the combs.

Dr. Bevan recommends the application of bars to each box; these
will not, however, be of any great advaritage in the working of the
hives according to my plan, while they cannot fail to increase the ex-
pense of their construction very considerably. Still, if it be thought
desirable, (and they will often be found useful,) they may be added.
They are generally made to run parallel with the sides of the box;
those, however, who like, as I do, to see as much as possible of the
economy of the hive at as many points as possible, I would advise to

64 THE-COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

make them run diagonally from corner to corner. Not only is this a
great advantage to the bees, chiefly in winter and the early spring,
when the heat can be more readily concentrated in one of the corners
of the hive, but, by this arrangement, the breeding of the queen may
be seen going on in every part of the hive at once, as a considerable
portion of every comb will come into view at these windows. Not
using bars, I invariably make a piece of comb adhere to the roof of
the boxes having this direction.

As to the arrangement of the bars, I cannot do better than transcribe
Dr. Bevan’s directions for fixing them, as well as adjusting the top board
on them: “ The sides of the boxes should be an inch thick, and have the
upper edges of the fronts and backs rabbeted out half their thickness, and
half an inch deep, to receive a set of loose bars upon their tops, which
should be half an inch thick, and one inch and an eighth wide.” The
number of the bars will be regulated by the size of the box. “If
the distances of the bars from each other be nicely adjusted, there will
be interspaces between them of about half an inch. The precise width
of the bars should be particularly attended to, and also their distances
from each other, as any deviation in this respect would throw the
combs wrong, particularly if that deviation gave an excess of room,
It would be better, therefore, for
them to be somewhat within the
rule, than to exceed it by ever so
little, for whenever the bees
evince a disposition to depart
from the prescribed dimensions,
its tendency is generally to make
the combs aproximate.” “ Hach
box, (on my plan,) must have one
close cover, which should be an inch thick, and well clamped at each
end to prevent warping, as a considerable quantity of steam arises
from the bees at certain seasons. The top, being intended to take off
and on, should be secured by means of four screws, each placed about
an inch and a half from the respective corners.” Of-course, where
the bars are dispensed with as unnecessary, no rabbeting will be want-
ed, but the top must be screwed down at once, thus effecting a con-
siderable saving of expense.

In one corner of each of my boxes, I always place a small thermom-

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 65

eter, so fixed, with its face to the glass, that I can see enough of it
for my purpose, while it encroaches as little as possible on the surface
of the glass itself, In adjusting it, care must be taken that no space
occurs between the thermometer and the glass for the bees to pass;
otherwise, they would quickly render it useless, by smearing it over
with propolis. Its use is very great, chiefly in summer, as an index
when to give additional room, which should always be supplied, and
ventilation afforded, if possible, when the internal heat raises the
quicksilver to 90° F. It has other advantages, also, which will quick-
ly manifest themselves to the scientific apiarian. To enable the ther-
mometer, in such a position, to tell at all correctly, the bees must be
compelled to work in a direction towards it, (not transversely across,)
otherwise there may be a difference of 10° or 15° at times between
the temperature of that corner and the centre of the hive. A bit of
worker comb, by way of a guide, affixed to two or more of the bars,
(or to the roof itself, if there be no bars,) will, as I said before, suffice
to give all the combs the proper direction.

As to the matter of bottom boards, I suggest to the curious and sci-
entific apiarian the following arrangement of them, by which he will
at once perceive how great the command of his bees which it will
give to him. I fear the directions for their construction will appear
to involve a somewhat complicated business—and some nicety in fit-
ting the parts together is certainly required—but a clever superinten-
dent and an adroit workman will soon prepare them satisfactorily.*

Each colony of two boxes then should have its own pair of bottom
boards, which will afford facilities for weighing the hives at any time,
summer or winter, as well as for inspecting the condition of the inte-
rior during the breeding season, at any hour of the night or day.
These boards, (of which there is one to each box,) should be made of
two pieces of well-seasoned wood, each piece being five eighths of an
inch thick, glued and nailed together, the grain of the wood in one
piece running at right angles to the grain of the other, as a precaution
against warping. To strengthen them still further, they might be
clamped together with bands of iron at the corners, or framed, if pre-

* It will be evident that a slight modification will simplify the process greatly; as, for
instance, throwing the ‘two boards into one, and making it a fixture, as well as by the
omission of all the slides and their grooves.

D

66 TE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

ferred. Every such board, when the two pieces are put together, will
be one inch and a quarter in thickness. Before putting together the
several parts of each board, a tunnel must previously be made in their
midst, from f, (the external opening, as seen in the accompanying dia-
gram,) to a, where
it communicates
with the interior
of the box, which

& is supposed to rest
onthe dotted lines
i hh. This tunnel,

which had better
be grooved chiefly
out of the bottom
piece, at least at f
and which slopes upwards a little towards a, must be four inches wide,
three inches and a half Jong, (that is from f to a,) and not*less than
three eighths of an inch in depth. Each of these boards should be
three inches wider than the boxes on the wall side and on the sides
between the boxes ; on the other sides, they need not project more than
half an inch beyond them. The excess of space on the two sides af-
fords room for the insertion of the hand between the boxes them-
selves, and between the stock box and the wall, (on the entrance
side,) to regulate a set of zinc slides—perforated or otherwise—which
close the communications between box and box, and box and exter-
nal air, as at gande. There are two slides which command the en-
trance way, one fixed to the board itself, the other in the wall, over
against the mouth of the tunnel at f; and two slides, in a similar
manner, at ¢, one at the edge of each board, which slip into a groove,
and prevent the bees from passing from one box to the other. It is
evident that the grooves in which the slides enter must be in every case
made at the very edge of the boards; otherwise, in withdrawing a box
for any purpose, some bees, that might be passing at the time, would
be intercepted between the slides, to the annoyance of the apiator.
‘To prevent this, it will be found useful to cut out a thin piece of wood
at the edge of the board, and to fit over it, in each case, a thin piece
of stout and inflexible metal—zinc, copper, or iron—having a hole in
it, corresponding exactly to the size of the passages. In this way, the

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 67

slides will fit close together, the pieces of metal alone interposing be-
tween them. A piece of wood, (having a suitable hole in it,) nailed
against the wall to which the slide is adapted will mect the difficulty
on that side. ;

There must also be constructed a tunnel as at d d, for the bees to
pass from one box to the other. It will be sufficient to cut it out of
the upper piece only of the double board; and it should be rather
deeper and wider than the entrance way. A plate of iron or thin ma-
hogany should also be fitted over it in each board, as at e ¢, thus form-
ing a covered way beneath it.

The holes, d b, are cut quite through the double board in each box,
and serve the purpose of ventilators, which will be found of very great
use at certain seasons. They are closed by a pair of zinc slides, c ¢,
the one perforated, the other plain, which passes in a groove, either
between the doubled boards or beneath them. There must always be
one of these ventilators to each board.

Three or four small screws, with rings attached, must be affixed to
the upper side of each board, into which the strings will be passed,
which are necessary to facilitate the removal of the boxes for weigh-
ing, inspection, &c.

-CHAPTER IX.

OF THE BEE HOUSH AND WINDOW APIARY.

Bex hives ranged in order in a well-sheltered garden, form so pleasing
an object to every true lover of rural pursuits, that it cannot be won-
dered at how tenaciously most apiarians adhere to the management of
their bees in this way. I am the last person to quarrel with this pre-
dilection, in which, I myself fully share. While, however, it must be
confessed, that to bee hives located in the open air, in point of pictur-
esque appearance and rural interest, the palm of superiority is to be
accorded; it cannot be denied, that for scientific purposes, general fa-
cility of management and profit, out-door apiaries must yield to such
as are conducted in-doors. The advantages of protection from the
weather, of security against accident, of opportunities for minute and
leisurely observation, cannot be too highly estimated. I think, there-
fore, I am fully justified in reserving to this place, as a sort of climax
to my subject, the details and treatment of house apiaries.

The use of some sort of cover for bee hives has been common
among all bee keepers of every country. Our old apiarians who aimed
at any improvement upon the prevailing system, generally made use
of a sort of shed or box, capable of holding from one to six or more
colonies of bees ; and such are still to be seen in some places. Speak-
ing of boxes of this kind, Mr. Taylor very justly observes, ‘“ the com-
mon bee houses, as usually constructed, opened in front and closed
against approach behind, retaining the sun’s heat as in an_oven, are
very objectionable. These are frequently unsightly, the receptacles of
dirt and insects, and in most instances, inconvenient to operate in.”
As these boxes, moreover, very imperfectly answer, at best, the end
in view, I shall content myself with this passing allusion to them,
leaving it to the ingenuity of the apiator, or to the instructions of the

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BER KEEPER. 69

older bee authors to guide him in his choice, and direct him in the
making of such sheds.

“There can be no doubt that a substantial bee house, large enough to
shelter the bee master as well as his bees, where the outlay of a few
pounds can be afforded at the outset, is the best of all places for loca-
ting hives, (be they of wood or straw,) and conducting the requisite
operations in bee management. Dr. Bevan, in his ‘‘ Honey Bee,” has
described his own apiary, which appears to have been a very simple,
useful, and inexpensive structure. It answered the double purpose
of bee house and potato shed—the potatoes below, the bees above.
His house, which was ‘seven feet square in the clear, afforded room
for seven colonies—three in front, and two at each end.” Being an
advocate of the storifying system, which he has worked with very
great success, his colonies, or “ piles of boxes, were placed within the
building, at somewhat less than two feet apart, so as to make the ex-
ternal entrances to each pile respectively about a yard asunder. Pre-
ferring, as I do, a combination of the storifying and collateral system,
to the exclusive adoption of either, (as explained in the last chapter,)
the same size of bee house, with a slight additional elevation of roof,
might be made to accommodate nearly double the number of colonies,
there being two tiers of boxes one above the other. In this case, the
distance between each colony of two boxes would be about one foot,
ample space being thus allowed for handling the boxes, and inspecting
the interior by the side windows. Dr. Bevan’s house was “built of
timber, lathed and plastered, both within and without ;” and was “not
only thatched thick on the top, but down the end and sides.” On that
side, however, on which the bees entered, the thatch, of course, ter-
minated at some distance above the entrances.

A very picturesque bee house, (similar to one which I saw two
years ago, erected by a farmer, and which worked very successfully,)
might be constructed of a pentagonal or hexagonal shape, two or three
of its sides, as the case may be, being occupied with a double row of
bee boxes. The tiers of boxes, whatever be the size of the house
should be elevated severally at the height of three, and five and a half,
or six feet; and there ought to be a space between each tier of one
and a half or two feet. In this case, the roof, which should be wel?
thatched, must not be lower than nine feet, to afford ample roorn for
working the bee glasses or supers over the higher tier of boxes. Such .

70 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BE KEEPER.

a house would be best made of brick, with stout posts of wood at the
angles, up to the first row of boxes, from that upwards of wood, lath-
ed and plastered both within and without. The other three sides of
the house would be taken up, the centre one with the door, the others
each with a window, in which, were it thought proper, an observatory
or leaf hive might be fixed. These windowsand their shutters should
be 60 contrived, that the house may be darkened at pleasure, room
being made for the admission of light by one aperture in either of the
windows, through which the bees may escape, (as they naturally fly
towards the light,) whenever a colony is to be deprived of a glass or
box. The roof, also, of the building should project two feet or more
on all sides but the north, to keep off as much summer sun as possible
from striking on the bee house front or sides,

Instead of the shelves or whole board upon which the boxes in such
houses usually rest, I prefer a kind of frame with cross bars, supported
by brackets, as seen in the accompanying diagram. The cross bars

should be so arranged that the edges of each hive board shall rest up-
on a bar, to which it may be fastened by hooks and. eyes, or else by
the insertion of some long screws through the board into the bar, to
keep it always firmly in its place; otherwise, there should be some
similar contrivance for attaching these boards so securely to the wall,
that the entrance holes in both board and wall shall always exactly co-
incide, without the possibility of the bees escaping between. them into
the bee house. Of course, these fastenings must be easily movable
at pleasure; that is, whenever any operation is to be performed with
the boxes. The chief advantage of this open frame is the facility it
affords for ventilation; otherwise, a hole must be cut in the shelf, if
made of a whole board, to correspond with the hole for ventilation in
the board of the hive itself; or these boards must each be elevated on
bars of wood nailed down upon the shelf.

A bee house of this description will have many advantages; here
the boxes and the bees will be kept cool in summer, be the sun’s rays
ever so burning, as well as snug and warm in winter; here there is

all safety against the attack of robbers, the intrusion of vermin, the

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEER KEEPER, 71

plague of damp; while no gusts, nor hurricanes of wind need trouble
the apiarian, who, besides, has every opportunity for the most careful
nnd undisturbed observation. I have seen several such bee houses;
among them is one belonging to the Lady of the Manor, in my own
neighborhood, from which, owing to her immediate superintendence,
and the able assistance of an intelligent gardener, she has harvested
very large stores* of the purest nectar. . A bee house of this kind, if

Ss Mn, m

a separate structure, should stand in a garden of its own, low, if possi-
ble, yet dry, and surrounded every way by a rampart of trees.

A last kind of apiary, inferior to none other in any of the advanta-
ges which I have enumerated, is what may be called the house-window
apiary. It is in this way that I have chiefly managed my own bees
of late years. Living on the outskirts of a country town, with no

* Thave heard her boast of a harvest of three cwt. of honey in one year, (this was in
1847,) from seven colonies !

72 HE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

suitable place externally in which to locate my bees, necessity has led
me to make use of some spare windows in my cottage which are well
adapted to this purpose. Any window facing any quarter of the
heavens, and at any height, will answer the purpose almost equally well,
provided only the situation be well sheltered from high winds, or the
destructive influence of sudden gusts, or strong currents of air, My.
own apiary labors under great disadvantages in many of these res-
pects; not only so, it stands within 100 yards of a broad and rapid
river, with an aspect, wholly unprotected, looking to the southwest,
whence the winds blow strongest and most frequently of any. In
spite of these drawbacks, there is not to be found a more thriving, or
profitable apiary in all the country round. JI am obliged to be often
on the look out, however, and have frequently to confine my bees en-
tirely for days together, in rough and stormy weather. ‘If the slides
be shut down in the early morning, before the bees stir, taking care at
the same time to open the ventilators by day, and the slides themselves
by night, the bee master may keep them shut up in most weathers,
(without much annoying his bees,) for forty-eight hours together. My
plan is, in doubtful weather, to confine them till the day declares itself; if
the wind be not too high, I wait a sunshiny moment, and set them
free. Of course, this treatment is pursued with most advantage in
the early spring; as the population increases, it becomes more difficult
and hazardous, neither is the precaution so necessary.

In favor of placing bees in such a locality, it may be observed that
these insects are naturally fond of, indeed, they seem to give a prefer-
ence to high situations, above all other habitats. In their wild state,
they will fix upon some tall and gigantic tree for their dwelling, and,
even after domestication, will not seldom prefer the roof of some house,
to any other locality. Several instances are on record of bees having
collected immense stores of honey in such places, doubtless owing to
the shelter afforded from the extremes of cold and heat, (and the boxes
must be well protected from the sun,) and the generally good ventila-
tion and dry atmosphere of places of this kind.

This sort of apiary has the additional recommendation of economy—
indeed, from the very trifling outlay required, it may be considered
the cheapest of all methods of locating bee hives, whilst there is every
facility for the most leisurely and uninterrupted observation in all

pe

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 13

weathers. Nothing is more requisite than to fix a frame, (similar to
that already described,) or a board, against a window that hag no in-
ner ledge, or im one that has,

upon which, the hive boards oo Ll, = <
may rest. A hole must alsobe ayl1_T 1 TT
cut in the lower frame of the ~
window sash, (to which an Agi Nl Pie
alighting board is affixed on the

outside,) corresponding in size 7: : i r [
i : | |

with the mouth of the bee pass-
aia al aa

Va
a!

age tunnelled out of the bot-
tom board, which is thrust up
as close as possible against it, so
that the holes may exactly co-
incide. Where the window is
sufficiently large, as in the above
sketch, two colonies may be
placed side by side, one on the
collateral, the other on the sto-
rifying system. In this case the
hive entrances must be as far distant as possible the one from the other,
that the bees may in no wise be tempted to quarrel. If only the low-
er part of the window bé occupied by bees, the upper sash may be
left free to ventilate the room; but if there are other windows suita-
ble for this purpose, and it be thought desirable to place another colo-
ny, or set of colonies, in the same window, nothing is easier than to adapt
a frame or shelf higher up, with a block of wood nailed or screwed
firmly to its upper side, answering the purpose of alighting-board and
external entrance way. A little putty will make all right and tight,
against rain and wind. It is hoped the accompanying diagrams
will sufficiently explain the manner in which this block will be ar-
ranged. For instance, ais the block itself, with alighting board attached,
as seen from the outside; 6 the same block, as it appears from with-
in, to the back of which the zinc slide is attached, which commands
the block passage. The square figure d represents a pane of glass, of
which the part below the dotted line, ¢ e, has been punched out, it
having been previously cut with a diamond. Through the narrow
opening thus made, the block a or 8, which rests on the lower edge of
p*

LH — ia peaecunens

!

lh
ail ' ] |"

Wasi MOI LNELAH} MATT WAN HSER Mi
nag na NA

ad
{

|

74 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER,

he window is passed, it having previously been securely attached to
he upper side of the shelf or frame, fixed in the window, upon which
he boxes rest.* Of course, the bottom board runs closely up to the
lock, and is secured in the same manner as the boards of the lower

xr of colonies. It is well, where the aspect of the window faces the
n, to hang up in it a piece of thick drugget, which, more than any-
ing else, will tend to keep the boxes cool. The same will also ex-
ide the frost in winter.

* The dotted lines c c show the place where the block rests on the window frame. The
cker and back part of the block is that which is screwed down to the shelf or frame.

CHAPTER X.

MANAGEMENT OF THE BEE HOUSE OR WINDOW APIARY.

Axrsovcn the apiarian, who manages his bees according to the method
unfolded in this chapter, will generally be able to do without any cot-
tage hives in the open air, it will be found desirable to have one or
more such kept for swarming purposes; among other reasons, to sup-
ply any failure which may chance to occur in his box colonies, whether
by the death of a queen or other accident. Under the old, (if it may
not be called the present,) system, accidents of this sort were common
enough; for the depriving system, as practised by the generality of
amateur bee keepers, is not by any means so universally successful as
its advocates would have us believe it to be; for two or three years,
indeed, after the establishment of a bee house, or any individual colo-
ny in it, matters may go on well enough; but if all swarming be pre-
vented, it becomes a mere chance whether it shall succeed or fail af-
terwards. Ifthe queen dies at the right time; that is, in May, June,
or July, and her decay be somewhat sudden, the colony flourishes, be-
cause a new queen, raised artificially, or otherwise, takes her place,
and four years more may be added to its successful existence. But if
the old queen fails gradually in any of those months, (in which case
she would probably leave no eggs behind her, from which to rear a queen
artificially,) or anyhow in the other nine months in the year, the bees
dwindle away, and the colony fails. This is one among other
causes of disappointment which many persons have experienced, who
have gone to great expense in establishing apiaries, and managed them
on the depriving system. They-failed through want of foresight ; they
should have provided a remedy against the natural defect in this sys-
tem, by changing the royal dynasty at least triennially, substituting.a
young and vigorous queen for an old and failing one. If this were
judiciously and scientifically managed, together with a periodical ex-

16 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEE?ER.

cision of comb, I see no reason why an apiary should not maintain a
perpetual youth, and any one colony flourish to an indefinite period.
One way of supplying a constant succession of young princesses from
external sources, will be fully detailed in this chapter; but that the
apiarian may securely depend on his own resources for this purpose, it will
be advisable for him to keep a few cottage hives, in proportion to the
size of his bee house, and the number of his colonies, although he will
generally be able to procure his young queens elsewhere and other-
wise. Such hives, kept for this purpose, may be managed according
to the instructions so fully given in the earlier part of this volume.
They had better be purchased at the outset ; and the bee house stock-
ed with swarms procured from them in due time, rather than with a
swarm or swarms obtained at the usual season. No doubt, with due
precautions as to the selection of such swarms, the apiary will be as
well stocked in this as in any other way; but there is this objection
to it, that any considerable profit will be delayed an additional year.

First year—Let us suppose, then, that a couple of strong stocks are
transferred to the garden in which the apiary is situated, whether in
spring or the previous autumn, from which two prime swarms issue
naturally in the course of the ensuing summer. That the apiary may
start well, I would advise the return of both swarms, as already ex-
plained, after destroying the old queens. In this way, more powerful
swarms, and youthful queens to boot, will be located in the bee house.

Where the swarm is forced artificially, with a view to the queen's de-
struction, it must by all means be deferred until she has laid royal eggs;
and, indeed, until it is ascertained that royal brood exists in the hive,
in a more or less advanced stage of forwardness; otherwise, the delay
would be very great before the second issue of the swarm.

To ascertain this, it will be proper to drive the bees out of the hive,
when, if it clearly appear that royal brood does exist, the swarm may
immediately be dashed out of the temporary hive, and the queen sought
for and destroyed. The bees will immediately return home, and prepare
for their second issue. One great advantage belonging to this artifi-
cial method of destroying the queen, is, that the final issue of the
swarm will be so much earlier and more certain than if the natural first
rising of the swarm was waited for previous to destroying her; not
only so, the bees will be less likely to fly away and be lost.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BER KEEPER. vil

When the swarm re“issues,* which will probably take place some
time in the fortnight succeeding the old queen’s removal; that is, if
the queen was destroyed according to the plan proposed above—let it
be hived first in a common bell hive, and afterwards transferred to
the box designed for its final reception, after which, it may be removed
the same evening to the bee house.

T need hardly repeat that it will not alwayst be necessary to destroy
the old queen, however advisable, especially where her age does not
exceed one whole year at the time of the issue of the prime swarm.
In this case, after the swarm has been transferred to its box, it will
be moved off, as in the former instance, to its intended locality.

_ Now, in both these cases, second swarms, or casts, must be looked for.
Where the prime swarm was headed by a young princess, the cast
will issue probably in two or three: days. Let it be returned to the
parent stock, after cutting out from it the surviving royal cells. In
this way, both hives should be treated, so as to encourage their strong
establishment for another year. In the autuman, if necessary, a suffi-
cient quantity of comb may be cut away, supposing either of the
stocks exceeded three or four years inage. Full directions as to every
method of managing these stocks having already been given elsewhere,
I shall not follow up their history in this place. -

To turn our attention, therefore, to the two swarms now located in
the bee house—when first established in their new quarters, for some
days at least, they ought not to be meddled with in any way, except
in the event of cold or wet weather succeeding, in which case, one of
the holes at the top may be uncorked, and a feeder slipped over it,
covered with a pane of glass, and something to exclude the light. The
feeder may contain from 13 to 3 Ibs. liquid honey or sugared
ale. Of course, there is no objection to inspecting the interior of the
box by the windows supplied for that purpose, though even this in
moderation, at first, lest the bees, who are a fastidious people, should
take a dislike to their new home, and decamp with the first opportu-
nity. Bad weather will often succeed the hiving a swarm. In this

* Observe, I would by no means advise the compulsion of the swarm on its final re-is-
sue, except in a case of extreme necessity, chiefly because it would become greatly weak-
ened by the return of a great part of its numbers to the old stand and hive.

+ See Appendix, Note I.

18 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER,

case, where bees are left to themselves, there occurs often a very hurt-
ful period of inactivity in the progress of the new works for want of
material wherewith to construct comb. If, however, a constant
supply of some rich food be given them, (by which I mean food
in which the saccharine element prevails, which Huber tells us is more
productive of wax than even honey,) they will construct comb in rea-
diness to receive the often sudden and sometimes immense collec-
tion of honey which flows in from every quarter on the return of pro-
pitious weather. Bees would seem to know when an abundant har-
vest is at hand; hence, they will often, especially in the height of the
season, construct comb as if in preparation for it. Thus I have known
comb-building continue most actively in a warmly-kept hive during
several days of bad weather, when scarcely a drop of honey was being
added to their stores. They willbe also seen at such times to carry the
honey, which they may chance in the hurry of the moment to have
deposited in the lower cells, into the higher parts of the hive, thus
clearing the way for the easy deposit of future stores. This I have
known them do in a side box, in which the queen had not once laid
an egg; therefore, the transfer of the honey could not have occurred
in deference to her breeding wants. ;

If the season be good, and the swarms strong, which they will gen-
erally be when the queen is destroyed, additional room will shortly be
required. This should be furnished some time in the course of the
third or fourth week ; and first, by opening to them a glass or two on
the top of the hive. Should the season be very good, they will also
want the side box, but this more rarely, owing to the large dimensions
of the stock hive. Still, it will often be found advantageous in very
hot weather, to give the bees all the room possible, even though they
may not absolutely require it for storing purposes. When the ther-
mometer indicates a temperature of 900 F., for two days together, and
the bees at morn or eve hang in clusters outside the hive, no time
should be lost in opening to them allavailable space. With so large a
population as will be almost sure tobe attached to the new swarms,
their large box will be filled in almost the same, or perhaps less time,
than a swarm of the usual size would take to fill a box of the ordi-
nary dimensions; so, that if 20 lbs. of honey may be yielded by
the one over and above their own winter store, not less than 30 lbs.,
under similar circumstances, will be collected by the others,

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 79

In supplying the bees with additional room, the bee master must be
guided by circumstances. When his complement of stock hives is
complete, his object will be the harvesting of honey. In this case, he
will proceed as above, first opening a bee glass, and afterwards the
side box. But should he desire a rapid increase of his apiary, and be
content to forego any present acquisition of honey with this end in
view, he may withhold all additional room above the swarm, and com-
pel them to work solely in the side box, which must be made to
take the place of the stock boa, ‘the latter being shifted to the right or
left as the case may be. Thus, in passing to the open air,* the bees
will have to enter an empty box, in which, if necessity urges them,
they will speedily begin to build. It will in general be occupied much
sooner than if it were in its original position, remote from the entrance,
and work a good deal more comb than they otherwise would do. Where
plenty of additional room is afforded in after years, in the shape of bee
glasses, or supers over the “pavilion,” or main box; and a hive be
treated in this manner, there will generally be found in this temporary
atrium, plenty of comb, well stored with pollen, (which will help to
relieve the stock hive of much of this often too abundantly-stored sub-
stance,) or only a third full, or even less of honey ; for bees always pre-
fer to store honey over their main domicile, whither they will, as I
just said now, transfer the honey temporarily stored in the side box,
whenever the weather chances to be unfavorable to their moving out
of doors, and adding to their treasures.

The reason of the above proceeding and treatment of a hive is this,
that on the arrival of autumn; that is, the close of the honey season,
out of the side box, an artificial stock may be formed, in a manner
presently to be explained, to whom the stored pollen will prove a most
acceptable boon. Every colony, or swarm in the bee house, may be
treated in a similar manner, and as many artificial stocks formed as
there are colonies in it; so that, in fact, where all things go well, notonly
may the apiary increase itself by accessions from without, in the shape
of swarms proceeding from the cottage hives, but it will double itself
within also. The method in which this is effected shall be explained
anon. I may add here, that in very good seasons, should the works

* The entrance to the hive, be it observed, must never be changed, otherwise, the sacri-
fice of many valuable lives would be the consequence,

80 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

in the new box appear to advance with much rapidity, as soon as it
appears half full of comb, (but not before,) a glass may be opened to
the bees over the main box, in which they will store a good deal of
honey for the bee master’s own use.

The method of removing such a glass when full, being somewhat
different to the plan pursued under the cottage system, I proceed to
explain. It must first be broken up from its hold-fasts of propolis,
which glue it firmly to the top of the hive. The instrument employ-
ed for this purpose, be it knife or spatula, may also be passed right
under the glass, so as to sever the comb from its attachments within.
This being done, thrust beneath the glass, two plates of zine, sufficient-
ly large, upon one of which, the glass will be removed, while the other
remains to cover the hole. Before doing this, however, it will sometimes
be found of use to lift the glass about the eighth of an inch from the
crown board of the hive, by means of small wedges, or bits of wood
or paper, to allow the bees to lick up what honey oozes out of the
cells, that may chance to have been fractured in process of breaking
the glass away from its attachments. Five minutes will generally suf-
fice for this purpose before removing the glass, which must not be de-
layed too long, or the bees, having sucked up the spilt honey, will pro-
ceed to rifle all the cells in the glass, to the dismay of the bee master,
When removed, the place of the glass may be occupied with another,
or else the hole filled up with a bung or cork. During the whole of
this process, not a bee need have escaped to annoy the operator. I
have elsewhere stated, that I deem it advisable to give no second
glass after the first week in July; the first reason there alleged holds
good in this case with the greater force, as it is desirable that there
should be at least five or six pounds of honey stored in the box des-
tined for the new colony. ,

Pass we now to the early autumn treatment of the bee house
colonies (for I think enough has been said elsewhere to guide the
apiarian in the summer management of his bees, and the autumn
*.is no idle time to the scientific amateur). If these colonies have
done well, besides the glasses which may have been taken off, there
will probably be .found a considerable quantity of comb in one or
both of the side boxes of his two swarms, not, however, containing
honey enough to tempt him to plunder, or, if tempted, to repay him
for the plunder. Bearing in mind, therefore, what I have before

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE: KEEPER, 81

suggested as to the costliness of wax, it will be his best policy
either to preserve this comb.to another year, (when it will be highly
prized by the bees, to whom it may be given, whether old stock or
prime swarm,) or to make use of it at once by turning into it an expa-
triated doubled colony of bees, procured from elsewhere expressly for
the purpose, in other words, to make an artificial stock out of it. To
this intent, the first thing to-be done is to make a bargain with some
one or more vottage bee keepers in the neighborhood, who are least
foolishly superstitious about their bees, while they adhere religiously
to the “good old plan” of the brimstone pit, as the best finale to the
labors of the year. In most places the bribe of a sixpence or a shil-
ling will induce them very readily to give up their bees to the experi-
mental apiarian. He should choose, if choice is afforded him, the
strongest, fullest; and most populous stocks, which will generally be
the swarms of the previous year, that have swarmed once in the course
of the present season, for these stocks, having a young queen, will be
in full vigor and promise. Next, those which are as- distant as possi-
ble from his own apiary, (say:two or three miles off,) should be bar-
gained for in preference to those that’ are nearer at hand, as the bees
will beso much less likely to’ wander off to their old: haunts and perish.
It is also desirable that the hives intended for plunder should stand side
by side; nor must there be less than two such in the same garden:
These preliminary steps having been taken—and’ they should be
done in good time—a fine day must be chosen, (as early in August as
possible,) for the taking away of the side box or boxes from one or
both of his colonies, according to circumstances. The removal of a
box intervening between the stock hive and the open air, is an easy
matter in apiaries managed according to my plan, though it may appear
an affair of some difficulty. I begin by thrusting in the: zinc slides
between the bowes, by which meansI speedily ascertain in which ofthe
boxes the queen happens to be. Should it be apparent that she has
taken up her quarters in the box nearest to the entrance, after wait-
ing some twenty minutes, I proceed to withdraw the zinc ventilating
shde wnder the hive board of the side box, having previously opened
one of the windows in the room or bee house—all other fights being
darkened so as to afford only one place of uninterrupted.egress to the
bees. Ifthis be performed in the warmest part of a fine day, but few
bees in general will’be found in it, and most of these will have eagerly

82 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER,

escaped in the course of an hour, and rejoined their companions in the
other box. The ventilators should then be closed, and the box trans-
ferred to the place destined for the reception of the new colony, for, in
this case, the old stock will receive the expected exiles from their own
home. Should it appear, however, that the queen remains in her
original palace, ald the slides must be shut down, and the boxes shift-
ed; that is, made to change places, after which, much the same pro-
cess will follow as in the former case, save only that the new box
becomes the reserved dwelling place of the new colonists, and to this
end is removed to its prepared position. It matters not if a few bees
are left among the combs, for they will either harmonise with their
successors, or return to their old locality on taking their first excursion
in the open air. The new box should be narrowly examined, pre-
viously to its establishment, as to the state of the comb which has
been constructed in it. If on inspection, there shows itself a too great
abundance of drone comb, the whole of it had best be cut away, (at
least as far as the ceiled cells,) as this would, in all probability, very
materially injure the after prosperity of the hive. Whichever box be-
comes the habitat of the new comers, should be carefully weighed
both before and after the bees are put into it.

And now for the method of peopling either of these hives—adestote
animis, lectores, et vos plaudite/ On the evening of the same day,
(should the weather be of a settled fine character, it were better it
should take place the day before,) let the bee master—-duly armed with
every necessary defence, and accompanied by an assistant bearing
every requisite implement, including a similar box to that which the
bees are to occupy—proceed to the apiary in which the doomed hives
are situated. If they stand side by side, it were well to commence
operations an hour before dusk, (for daylight, where possible, is of
great advantage,) only let both principal and assistant be well de-
fended against every possible attack. The process then to be adopted
is as follows :—First let one hive, (the strongest of at least two,) be
driven into a temporary bell or cottage hive. As soon as effected—
after fumigating the old hive with sulphur to destroy what bees re-
main, and removing it in-doors—turn up the second hive, (and here I
must interpose—have nothing to do with casts only half full of comb;
they give more trouble than they are worth,) and set over it the same
hive used in the former case, into which the population of the first hive

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 83

has already crept, and drive as before. ‘The two families, (and, indeed,
any number of bees so driven,) will unite in the most harmonious
manner, without the least attempt at fighting—save only that the
jealousy of royalty will demand a victim, and one of the rival queens
will be executed before morning. Of all the methods of uniting bees
hitherto practised, this, which is a discovery of my own,* is undoubt-
edly one of the simplest and most effectual It may seem hazardous;
but I can testify frog. experience to its value, having tried it more
than a dozen times during the last two years with the same unfailing
success. But to proceed—the now united swarm in the temporary
hive had better be located for the night on a stool exactly half way
between the position occupied by the two families before their expa-
triation. If, however, the old hives did not stand side by side, let it
occupy the place of the strongest stock.

Having collected as many bees together as possible out of two, three,
or more hives, and thus ordered them, patience must be had till the
following day, when, at any time between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m, (but the
later the better within this space,) the operator may revisit the scene
of his last night’s proceedings, and conclude the business. All that
now remains to be done, is rudely to shake the bees out of the tempo-
rary hive upon the ground, in some open but shady place, in front of
the box provided for their reception, whose edge must be elevated
half an inch or so from the ground. It is evident that the box which
the bees are finally to occupy may be used for this purpose, but only
if there be no great quantity of bees, brood, or honey in it. If it
chanced to be heavy, there would be some danger of the combs break-
ing down; on this account, I advise the use of a temporary box,
which, when the bees have crept into it, may be placed on a board,
and set on the stand which the swarm occupied the night before. To-
wards evening, when the bees are all in, it may be carried off to the
place destined for it, and set over the box which the insects are finally
to occupy. They will all quickly descend, (the holes intervening hav-
ing been previously opened,) and accustom themselves to their change
of home. The upper box, when empty, may be removed.

Such is the method which I recommend to be pursued in every case
where it is desired to form artificial stocks. If the process above ex-

* See Appendix, Note E,

84 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

plained be properly managed from beginning to end—above all, if the
bees saved have proceeded from strong and vigorous stocks, (at least
one of the families in each united stock should answer this description,)
there is every probability—I may say certainty—that, with a judicious
and liberal supply of food up to the desired weight, (and every such
stock ought to weigh neither more nor less than 20 Ibs. of contents at
Michaelmas,) it will become one of the strongest and most remunera-
ting stocks in the whole apiary the following@ummer. Artificial
stocks obtained in this manner have a double advantage, being both
economical and profitable; for they will cost very little to the bee
master, while his apiary may increase itself as rapidly, when worked
on the non-swarming system, as if his bees were allowed to swarm ad
Libitum. It will be at once perceived, that an apiary managed on this
plan, may be conducted in a bee house, without any assistance at all
from garden hives, worked on the cottage system; I mean, that the
apiarian may be altogether independent of swarming, which is a mat-
ter of great importance to dwellers in towns, who may hitherto have
thought themselves debarred from the pleasures of bee-keeping, from:
their lack of a garden, and the consequent necessity of purchasing
swarms. It will be seen, moreover, when I come to the next year’s
management of the apiary, that the increase of stocks may be man-
aged another way, without the troublesome necessity even of procur-
ing bees from elsewhere at all; so that one stock, well managed, may
become the parent of a numerous apiary, without even requiring the
apiarian to move out of the room of his house which he may have de-
voted to keeping bees.

There is yet another plan of forming artificial stocks, which I have
tried with much success. I introduce a notice of it here, for the ben-
efit chiefly of those bee keepers who are curious in such matters, and
have the requisite leisure for conducting the somewhat tedious, though
very interesting, process. Itis this: After collecting together the popu-
lation of two or more doomed hives, let them be placed in a perfectly
empty box. If fed leutifally-=—-and they should never lack an abun-
dant supply of palatable food in their feeding trough for at least a
month; that is, until the contents of the box reach 20 lbs. in weight—
they will construct a great deal of comb, and store away food enough to
keep them alive through the winter, without requiring much, if any,
additional supply in the spring. This method of rearing bees is, how-

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEEK KEEPER, 85

ever, an expensive one, as they will often consume from fifteen to sev-
enteen shillings’ worth of honey or prepared food, before their hive
attains the requisite weight. If, however, the thing be well managed,
a colony of this kind becomes exceedingly profitable. I reared one in
this way through the winter of 1849, which yielded me 34 lbs, of the
finest honey in the indifferent bee year that followed; and it is now,
(February, 1851,) in the very best health, keeping up a much higher
average temperature than any of my other stocks. If this plan be
adopted, the stock should be formed as early as possible in August,
when the queen, if a good breeder, will be tempted to lay considera-
bly before the close of the year. The method, however, before detail-
ed, is to be greatly preferred, for the comb being for the most part
already constructed, not more than from six to ten pounds of food need,
in general, be supplied, at the cost of a very trifle, and this will put it
on as safea footing as any other stocks.

Towards the close of August, (see reasons for mentioning so early
a date in Chapter XI.,) every hive in the apiary should be put on a
proper footing to stand the winter, by supplying to those colonies,
which may be found deficient in weight, as much food as will bring
them up to at least 20 Ibs. of contents—the garden hives should weigh
a pound or two more, to make allowance for the increasing weight of
the old comb.* For winter management, all that is requisite, besides
an occasional cleansing of the boards, is to keep off the effects of a win-
ter sun in cold weather. The felt or drugget blind in the window ap-
iary will answer the purpose of a sun guard well enough, where the
window faces the south. Besides this, in both bee house and window
apiary I take care to confine the bees close prisoners when the sun
shines in cold weather, as I also do during the prevalence of a high

* As to these cottage hives, I have supposed before that it was intended they should qual-
ify themselves to stand as winter stocks; and to this end, casting, in both cases, should
have been carefully prevented, If not more than four years old, and sufficiently strong in
weight and population, it will be advisable by all means to keep them to another season ;
should either of them, however, appear to be weak, or should it exceed four years in age, it
were best, perhaps, to break it up as soon as August is drawing toaclose. To this end,
the bees may be first fumigated, or driven into an empty hive, and joined to their compan-
ions in the neighboring stock; after which, cut out all the combs with care, and remove
from them all that is still occupied with brood. Whatever honey is found in the hive,

being of an inferior quality, will do admirably to mix with the food supplied to the artifi-
cial stocks,

86 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPFR.

wind in mild weather, by pushing in the slides between the box and
the wall in every colony, which keeps them in total darkness, be the
glitter of snow or the sun’s glare ever so bright. In the meanwhile,
it is prudent always to open the ventilators below, to afford them the
necessary air. In calm mild weather, however, the bees should have
free access to the open air, as exercise in winter, where it may safely
be enjoyed, is of great advantage to them. On the breaking up of
a frost, and after a general thaw, afford as much air as possible; also
a current of air through the hive occasionally in mild dry weather,
will be found very beneficial, especially in wooden boxes, which are
more liable to accumulations of damp, arising from condensed vapor,
than the old bell-shaped cottage hive.

The process of board-cleansing, which I have before described in the
instance of straw hives, may be thus conducted: Let an evening be
chosen when the wind is blowing in a direction towards the apiary ;
then remove the blank ventilator so as to cause a rush of air over the
floor board, which will compel the bees to ascend up among the
combs. This effected, slide the hive gently but quickly on to the
board of its side box, which must previously have been removed.
After scraping and washing the board thoroughly—at the same time
drying it by the fire—the hive may be pushed back again to its old
place without a single bee having escaped to annoy the operator.

Second Year.—I come now to the second year’s treatment of the
house apiary, in obedience to the plan and rule which I laid down to
myself at the beginning. As to the early treatment of the hives, much
the same attention will have to be bestowed on them towards the ap-
proach of spring as was recommended to be given to hives managed
on the cottage system, including the judicious excision of mouldy
combs. These, however, are not likely to be found so early in the
history of a new apiary. Most writers on bees advise the partial feed-
ing of even strong hives in the early spring. To this opinion I myself
incline, having tried it with advantage. It must be done with much
judgment, however, or it becomes of positive injury to the bees. In
the case of stocks established in the natural way, there is nothing so
good to feed with as warm diluted honey. Instead of this, for a stock
artificially formed, the food supplied should be somewhat inferior in
“quality to that stored in the hive, as itis important that whatever pre-
pared food was given them in autumn should be all cleared away be-

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 87

fore the honey season comes; and if a better food were given them,
they might perhaps neglect it. Whatever food be given, it must be
given only on mild calm days, when the temperature of the weather
is about 50° F. and upwards. To stimulate a hive, (for this food is
given with this intent,) during the prevalence of high winds or cold
showery weather, is to endanger its existence by inducing an injurious
activity among the bees, who venture forth under its influence to al-
most certain death. In propitious weather, however, a tablespoonful
of food each day may be given with much advantage; but care must
be taken in feeding to avoid creating a current of air through the hive,
which would neutralise the beneficial influence of the feeding stimulus
by reducing the temperature which the other tended to raise. Co-
pious spring feeding, except where a hive is starving, is altogether to
be avoided. It tempts many bees to neglect their duty to the young
brood; besides that, in storing it away, they necessarily encroach on
the queen’s breeding space, and so positively assist in weakening the
colony.

As the month of April speeds away, the strength of all the hives
that have well survived the winter and the perils of the early spring
increases daily, so that more room will shortly be required. Before this
is given, however, let the bottom boards throughout the apiary receive
a final cleansing for the season. The in-door colonies on or about the
first of May must next be supplied with glasses, duly furnished with
guide comb. These, let me repeat here, must be carefully protected
from the influence of cold by thick woollen coverings of some sort;
the warmer they are kept in general the better, though when the wea-
ther is very sultry they may be left quite uncovered. Bees will some-
times commence working in a glass as early as April, often in the mid-
dle of May. At this time it should be kept always covered, for the
population will not yet be so numerous as to be unable to regulate
the temperature for themselves. Be it also remembered, that comb-
making is by all means to be encouraged, so that when honey abounds
there may be ready-constructed room in which to store it. Never
mind if the bees, on the return of ungenial weather, carry all the
honey as yet stored down into the hive, when seasonable weather re-
appears they will soon fill the cells up again.

As the year advances and the population increases, much attention
must be paid to the seasqnable supply of additional hive room, some

88, THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

days, and even weeks, before it becomes absolutely necessary. Expe-
rience has convinced me that the existence of vacant space in a hive
has a tendency to stimulate the bees’ industry; however, let it be so
given as not to reduce too low the temperature of the hive. Now
also is the time for the bee master to provide for the autumnal increase
of his apiary, should he desire it, according to the plan before suggest-
ed, of which, indeed, we suppose him to have made trial the year be-
fore. Whatever success he may have obtained then, now certainly
he may, (unless the season should prove extremely bad,) have four
boxes in the autumn, out of which to make as many artificial stocks,
if he can get bees enough to tenant them. A further advantage there
will accrue from this treatment of his stocks, namely, that by shifting
his boxes, in the way pointed out a few pages back, and compelling
the bees to pass from their hive into the open air through an empty,
box, much anxiety will be spared him as to the possible swarming
away of his bees; for if the boxes be shifted in good time, say at the
end of April, they will be sure not to swarm if space to work in be
afterwards supplied to them as fast as they want it, and the boxes are
well sheltered from the sun, The earlier too the boxes are shifted, the
greater heat will be engendered in the stock, which being moved so
far away from the entrance, will be less sensitive of the changes of the
weather; thus will the maturation of the brood be advanced the spee-
dier. Plenty of spare room over the pavilion must be opened to
them, as it is wanted; for in proportion as they have room given
them to store above their proper domicile, the less honey will be de-
posited in the ante-chamber, out of which the new colony is to be
made. Should the bees increase so greatly in numbers as to compel
them to hang outside, from the alighting board, when all the available.
space has been given them, a glass or box, even though not quite full,
must be taken away, and its place supplied by an empty one. The
partially-filled glass or box may be replaced later in the season, if, on
removing other glasses or boxes, honey seems to be collected still in
any quantity. His own judgment must guide the bee master in his
decision, as to whether he shall appropriate the contents at once or
reserve it as I have just suggested; only be it borne in mind, that
empty comb is of little value in itself, but a great boon to the bees,
and a prize to their master himself in the end, if returned to him full
of honey. Empty comb, however, is always useful to tempt them up

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BIE KEEPER. 89

into a glass or super, in the way of guide or decoy comb, ‘especially if
there chance to be a little honey in it; some ought certainly to be re-
served and laid by for this purpose every year.

Let me now fulfill the promise which I made to reveal to the bee
master a method of increasing his stock hives without the necessity of
his moving from the bee house, so as to make him entirely independent
of the process of swarming, or driving bees, as a means of stocking
his apiary.

To form a stock of bees according to this method, it is simply requi-
site to catch the queen bee of a strong colony, some time between the
end of the third week in May, and the middle of the month of July ;
that is, before the slaughter of the drones has commenced in that partic-
ular hive, and while there is still much brood in it. To secure the per-
son of majesty, with this end in view, may seem difficult in the case
of common box colony. In reality, it is far easier than to secure the
queen of a leaf or observatory hive, for she may be caught without
the escape of a single bee—with the utmost coolness on the part of the
operator—and even without laying a finger on the royal person. To
succeed in this enterprise, however, the bees must have worked some
comb in one or more bee glasses, (the more the better,) the colony
must be strong in population, eggs must be found in the stock hive,
and the queen must be still vigorous. These necessary points occur-
ring together, nothing is wanting to success but the watchfulness of
the operator. As June advances, and the bees’ ardor in the collection
of honey is.at its height, scarcely a day will pass in which the queen
of a vigorous stock will not appear several times in one or all of the
glasses over the stock hive. She is anxious to lay, but it is with diffi-
culty, (owing to the demand for store room,) that she can find suita-
ble cells, wherein to deposit her eggs. Indeed, it is only when by
mere good luck, she happens to anticipate her subjects in finding a cell
just vacated by a young-escaped bee, that she can lay with comfort;
in this strait, she perambulates every part of the hive in search of
breeding space, and in the course of her journeyings, among other
places, she visits the bee glasses. Now, if at any one of these mo-
ments, (and they occur pretty frequently,) the bee master happens to
be on the watch, the golden moment is arrived. Without/loss of time,
let him thrust a couple of zinc plates between the glass in which the

E

90 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

queen has appeared, and the hive itself, and then remove the glass
away on its plate, putting it aside till it is wanted.*

The next thing to be done is to thrust in all the slides; after which,
remove the stock box to the place in the apiary destined for the re-
ception of the new colony, leaving the other box behind,t which, if it
have some comb and honey in it, is in so much the better circumstan-
ces. Now, (if it have not been done before,) set the glass containing
the queen over one of the holes over this side box, and one of the
new colonies is formed.

A strict watch must now be kept upon the old box, whose occu-
pants, (as at the time of the division of the colony,) are still imprison-
ed. Should the quicksilver rise to 1000 F., or near it,{ part of the
population must be suffered to escape—the box being kept as cool as
possible in the meanwhile—until the heat descends to below 900.
If the temperature of the box should not rise beyond this, (or as soon
as it has become reduced to this,) let the bees be kept close prisoners
for forty-eight hours, by which time—if there was any suitable brood
in the hive—they will have commenced the formation of royal cells
preparatory to the raising of ‘an artificial queen. They may then,
very early in the morning, or better towards evening, be released with
safety ; some may and probably will return to the old hive, but the
greater body of them will remain true to their new home and expected
sovereign, having altogether forgotten their old attachments. Of course,
the earlier in the season this operation can be done, the better, chiefly,
because that then, no fears need reasonably be entertained as to
whether there exists in the hive suitable brood for rearing an artificial
queen or not. In one of my boxes, the fact may generally be ascer-
tained by looking in at the windows, of which the more—and the lar-
ger they are—the better. But, indeed, it may be taken for granted,
that a sufficiency of eggs or larvae of a proper age, will be always
found in a good stock, worked on the depriving system, during the

* Air must be given to the imprisoned bees, or they might die of suffocation, especially if
very numerous in the glass.

+ Isuppose it to have previously intervened between the “pavilion” where the queen
‘was, and the open air.

} A thermometer is almost indispensable in the box for the perfect success of this
operation.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM’ BEE KEEPER. 91

months of May, June, July, and August. The operation should not
be attempted, however, later than July, for a variety of reasons, which
it is unnecessary to specify.

To turn back to the straw hives in the open air. Bearing in mind
that their queens are now only barely a year old, it will be unnecessary
to destroy them this season. Therefore, soon after the middle of May,
(but see Chapter VII.,) force artificial swarms from them. These, in-
stead of being removed to the bee house, for I doubt whether most of
the bees, when forced to swarm, would not return to the old hive the
following day—perhaps queen and all would decamp together—these,
I say, had better be put into large straw hives, and’ made to take the
place of the old ones, for permanent stocks. Nine tenths of the pop-
ulation may be driven out of the old hives, so as to strengthen to the
utmost the condition of the swarms, in order that they may well fill
their hives before winter. This they will probably do so effectually as
to weigh from 50 to. 70 lbs. of contents, glasses and all included,
which may be taken from them. To anticipate the time, I would ob-
serve here, that if the weight of either of these hives much exceed 25
Ibs. of contents at Michaelmas, it were well to break up the top, and
scoop out from the upper cells of the combs, on one side, as many
pounds of honey as would reduce it to that weight or a little less; the
reason of this spoliation I have elsewhere stated.

The best way to treat the old hive under these circumstances, (that
is, after forcing the artificial swarms out of them,) is to make one good
stock of them. To effect this, set one of them bottom upwards in a
pail, which must be used the next three weeks as a stand for the hive.
Before turning the hive up in it, the pail should be firmly fixed to the
spot by running three or four stout stakes into the ground close to it
all round, so that no sudden gust of wind nor accidental blow may
knock it over. Having adjusted one of the hives, the largest and fresh-
est, in it, as explained just now, let the other be brought and fitted
nicely over the other, so that the two hives shall form but one family.
They must be well fitted together, first by thrusting long and sharp
skewers of wood through the straw of one into the straw of the other,
and plastering up the spaces between the hives through which the
bees might creep in and out, taking care to leave only one hole for
the use of the united families. This done, a neat hackle may be placed
over the crown of the topmost hive. By the end of three weeks,

92 TUE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

this colony will be very numerous in population, every bee having
been hatched out of the cells which were left full of eggs or brood on
the issue of the swarm from each. In this case, it is not so necessary
that royal brood should have been left by the old queen; in fact, it
Were perhaps better that the bees should rear a queen artificially, be-
cause, at the expiration of the three weeks, she will probably not have
laid a single egg yet in the hive. When this time is fully come, take
off the upper hive, which will be principally occupied by the bees, and
set it on a stool provided for it, close to where it stood before; that is, as
close as possible to the pail. Nowremove the reversed hive, whose combs
and cells will generally be found quite empty of brood, and deserted
by the bees, and cut out of it half the combs, on the side where they
appear oldest and blackest. When I say half the combs, I do not
mean entire combs, but so much of them as appears to have been prin-
cipally used for breeding purposes, for the upper part, although dark
in color, perhaps, is sure to be good yet; in fact, it very rarely becomes
black and old as the lower cells do. Having duly prepared it in this
manner, take the former hive and drive all the bees out of it into the
one just prepared for their reception. They may be placed finally on
the stool, and suffered to right themselves as best they may. As this
will be done very early in June, there is every chance of these bees col-
lecting a good deal of honey before winter, and replacing the re-
moved comb with beautiful fresh cells, so that they will form a good
stock for another year. Hither this hive may be suffered to remain
where it is, as a third garden stock, or it may be transferred to the
bee house about Christmas, there to remain till the following spring,
when the whole population may be forced from it at the usual time,
as a swarm, and located in a box in its place ; it may then be set over
some other stock for the full period of three weeks, until every grub
in it has been hatched out, after which let it be destroyed.

On the arrival of the month of August, the bee master will turn
his attention to the stocks to be formed artificially. Hitherto, his ap-
iary has only increased by the addition of one garden stock since the
preceding autumn, unless he have adopted the plan detailed a few
pages back; but it may now be enlarged from seven to eleven colo-
nies, by giving to each of the ante-chamber boxes in the bee house a
new population, each under a distinct government. The method of
conducting this interesting series of operations has been already so

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 93

amply explained, that it is needless for me to say anything more here
on the subject.

Before I wind up this chapter to a conclusion, it remains for me to
give a few directions concerning the best method of renewing period-
ically the once-established stocks in the apiary. I speak here of two
kinds of renovation—renovation of comb, and renewal or exchange of
queen when she begins to wane in vigor.

Renovation of comb should take place not less often than once in
every four or five years. When it becomes desirable to effect this, all
that is requisite to be done, is to set the old box into the spring over,
instead of at the side of, the ante-chamber, when additional room is
given to the hive. As the comb is worked below, the queen will de-
scend, for instinct leads her to descend as low as possible towards the
entrance of the hive; not only so, she will prefer the new and clean,
to the old and worn-out comb for Jaying her eggs. There is one ob-
jection to this plan, namely, that the bees will then store their honey
in the upper hive among the old combs. To avoid this, which would
materially lessen the profit derivable from this stock during that par-
ticular season, as soon as the bees have worked some comb below,
thrust a divider between the boxes, (taking care to admit air to the
upper box, by elevating it to the eighth of an inch or so, on thin pieces
of wood,) and wait the issue. If the bees after a time get very
restless above, it may be inferred that the queen is below, in which
case, suffer the bees to escape by elevating the box sufficiently on one
side; if they refuse to leave the hive, it is a sign they have not dis-
covered the loss of their queen, who, therefore, doubtless is among
them. In this case, the box must be restored, and the divider with-
drawn. This should be repeated twice or thrice, (or as often as desir-
able,) every week until successful. Having removed the upper box
at last, cut out all the lower part of every comb, leaving two inches
of each adhering to the roof if apparently still good. The box should
then be removed to some dry place till wanted for an artificial stock,
or else, if not wanted for this purpose, it had better be cleaned out al-
together, and be well scraped and scrubbed. If removed before June,
it is evident that the now young stock may, and probably will, give
some surplus honey in a glass or side box.

There is yet another way of treating a stock of this kind. It is to
manage it in the spring as if with the intention of forming an artificial
stock; then to drive the bees, in August, out of the old box into an

94 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

empty one, and to set this over the side box, which is supposed to be
partially filled with honey and comb. If thus treated every alternate
year, the stock box of every colony should have only half of its comb
cut away at atime. It will thus be preserved in perpetuity, and may
either have its former occupants returned, or receive a new queen and
fresh population. In either case, whatever brood may be found in the
box to be renewed, may, and ought, (if in any quantity,) to be saved.
How this may be done has already been sufficiently pointed out in
Chapters V. and VII.

To renovate a hive by substituting a young for an old and worn-out
queen—whether she be three or four years old—the plan to be pur-
sued is still more simple, aad no less efficacious, than that just advised
for comb renewal.

I may premise that one very serious objection to the depriving or
non-swarming system, where it is followed in its integrity, (and to the
existence of objections to it I have alluded before,) is to be found in
this: That, owing to the absence of a demand for royal brood tol ead
off colonies, the queen sometimes lays no royal egg* at all in the
hive; or if shé does lay in royal cells, the bees destroy the grubs be-
fore they come to maturity. Now, should this happen for three or
four years consecutively, it stands to reason that the colony must
perish—I mean where the decay of the queen is gradual, when even
the laying of worker eggs is discontinued some time previous to her
death, out of which a sovereign might be raised artificially to supply
her place. To this, among other causes, must be attributed the very
frequent casualties which occur in box colonies that are not suffered
to swarm. I should almost be disposed to lay it down as an excep-
tion to the rule, where they thrive for more than four consecutive
years together. Every scientific manager of an apiary ought, there-
fore, by careful observation, to make himself acquainted, as accurately
as possible, with the age and pedigree of every queen bee under his
charge, so as to be able, by a judicious removal of the old queens, and
the substitution of young and vigorous ones in their place, to preserve
his colonies perpetually in thorough working order.

Now one way to do this is as follows:—Let him procure from his

* T use the term “ royal egg” in a popular sense; not that I believo the egg from which
au queen is reared to be at all different from those eggs out of wh:ch the common bees
proceed,

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BRE KEEPER. 95

cottage neighbors the population of their strong casts that are doomed
to the brimstone pit. These may then be driven out of their several
hives, and set over the colonies to be renewed, (one strong cast to
each colony,) from which the original inhabitants, together with their
quecn, have been previously withdrawn. These last, on being driven,
should have their queens destroyed, which will have the effect of com-
pelling them to return home; here they ought to find their old dwell-
ing, (after being deprived of part of its comb, if need require,) sur-
mounted by the cast procured for the purpose. The bees above,
however, should not be suffered to have access to the hive below till
after some time has elapsed. A piece of perforated zinc interposed
between the two hives for a few hours, will prove effectual in recon-
ciling the natives and the new comers together. This I recommend
more by way precaution, than from any idea of the danger of a fight,
even on the immediate union of the two families. I have known the
bees of two hives, located side by side on the same stand, fraternise*
very curiously at swarming time, when the queen of one of the hives
chanced to have been lost.

Should it be found a matter of difficulty to procure such casts from
cottagers, (and they ought to be instructed to keep no casts at all,) the
bee master must manage to procure a supply of young queens at
home. For this reason, if for no other, it will be advisable to keep
several hives of straw in the open air, whose old queens may be de-
stroyed every year, according to the plan detailed in Chapter V.
Thus even the spoliation swarms, managed according to my cottager
plan, may always be made to contain youthful queens, by merely re-
turning the swarms or their first issue, after previously killing the
queens.

By a close attention to the directions contained in this chapter,
(many of which, however, are in the main suggestive, rather than
given as the result of experience,) there can be no doubt whatever of
success; an apiary may have a prolonged existence of perpetual
youth, and of the most flourishing vigor, while the intelligent bee mas-
ter will not only reap a large reward for his pains, in the overflowing
spoils of every season, but have the purest enjoyment in his scientific
management of these interesting insects.

* See Appendix, note K.

CHAPTER XI.
OF FEEDING BEES.

Evovucu has been written by other authors on the importance of feed-
ing bees, to render it unnecessary for me to detain the reader with
any observations of my own in recommendation of it. Suffice it to
say, that no person deserves to succeed as an apiarian, who, in these
days, neglects, from whatever cause, to establish his stocks in sufficient
wealth in autumn, or to supply them in spring with enough food to
remove all danger of their perishing from starvation.

I have some few remarks to make, however, respecting the manner
and time of feeding, the food to be used, and the vessels in which it
should be given.

In the first place, where it can he done, I have no doubt that top-
feeding is greatly to be preferred to every other method. To those
who have holes at the top of their hives, the process of feeding be-
comes very simple indeed, especially in the case of box hives in a bee
house or window apiary. Here the apiator may feed his bees at any
time, whereas in the open air, the food can be supplied only at night,
owing to the perpetual annoyance from stranger bees or wasps, who,
being quick of scent, in the autumn, especially at a season when little
honey is to be found in the woods or fields, will crowd around the
hives that are being fed, with surprising pertinacity.

Mr. Nutt’s plan, (namely, feeding in drawers beneath the bottom
boards,) however well it may answer in warm weather; thatis, when the
external temperature averages from 500 to 600 F., is wholly ineffec-
tual under other circumstances. The bees will descend unwillingly,
and at imminent danger of their lives. The same objection holds against
the use of scoops of elder wood, or plates thrust underneath the hive
itself wpon the board. Butif the hole at the top of the hive, by which
the bees have access to the feeder, be in the centre—or where the bees
chiefly congregate—they will at all times eat more than others, and

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 97

will continue to take food more or less actively, when the tempera-
ture is as low as 400.* This fact is of great importance to be attend-
ed to, as the external temperature in general averages much lower
than 500 i in the autumn quarter of the year, while it seldom rises for
more than a few days together to the higher figure, and then only for
a few hours during the day. Where top-
feeding is judiciotisly managed, bees may con-
tinue to be fed to a late period in the year,
and, of course, proportionably early in the
spring. I must, however, here caution the
reader again to be very careful at this season,
to open the top hole as seldom as possible, and
then only in the warmest weather, except in
cases of urgent necessity, (or where a current
of air is carefully prevented,) as any escape of
heat at this critical time is extremely injurious,
when the development of brood should by all
means be encouraged; and be it remembered,
an internal heat of 70° has been considered
necessary by the highest authorities to the
hatching of eggs and the perfectiol of brood.

I make use of two sorts of feeders, both of
them constructed of zinc,t which, for many
reasons, is greatly to be preferred to wood, except perhaps the very
hardest kinds. The one pan is adapted to use, (for copious feeding,)
in warm weather, when the bees will empty it sometimes twice a-day
(according to the quality of the food); its shape and dimensions are
as follows :—lIt is a circular trough or pan, from six to seven inches

wh

| cl

DO rear

IN 3

“A

* Nay, at the moment I write; February 27th, with the external temperature at 320, the
Dees are very greedily at work in one of my bee-glass feeders, (covered by a thick woollen
sock doubled,) while not one has yet ventured forth, and there is not even a sign of activity
in any other part of the hive. The internal temperature of this hive, however, is undoubt-
edly much higher in the centre, than it would otherwise have been. ;

+ The objection to zinc, on the ground that in very cold weather it endangers the lives
of the few bees who chance to be tempted up into it, is, I think, unworthy of attention.
The inscets are generally careful enough not to venture their lives in this manner ; and if
they should, the bee master has but to close the communication with the hive, at once to
remedy the evil,

Et

98 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

in diameter, and two inches in depth.* In the centre of its bottom is
cut a hole two or three inches in diameter, into which is soldered a
tube, or cylinder, of the same metal, ascending one and a half inch into
the pan, to whose inner side is accurately fitted a cylinder of leather,
wood, or pasteboard, to facilitate the bees’ ascent into the feeder ; this
they will themselves securely fasten in its place by means of propolis.
The under side of the pan should be perfectly flat and level, so as to
slip easily on and off the hole, whenever it may be desirable to close
the communication between it and the hive. For this purpose, it will
be convenient also to have a small cap fitting nicely over the tube of
ascent. There must also be fitted against the side of the pan, exter-
nally, a funnel-like piece of zinc, in shape somewhat resembling a
jug spout, by which the liquid food supplied may be poured from time
to time. Of course, there must be some small holes punched in the
side of the feeder against which it is soldered, to allow the liquid to
run through. A pane of glass fits over the whole, through which the
proceedings of the industrious insects may be watched at leisure. This
pane ought to fit exactly on the edge of the feeder, to allow of as little
escape of air as possible. Lastly, there must be constructed a float of
some hard wood,t having a hole in the centre to admit the ascending
tube, so accurately made, that while it rises and falls easily with the
liquid beneath it, it is not so small in diameter as to allow of any
bees being drowned between it and the walls of the feeder, The
thickness of the float may be about a quarter of an inch. To prevent
it sticking to the bottom, three or four brads must be passed through
it, here and there; these will elevate it about a quarter of an inch
above the bottom. It is of little consequence if the bees can get
under it; indeed they may be encouraged to do so, as they will often
save the apiator the trouble of cleansing the feeder; while a little
care in replenishing it, will avoid all danger of drowning any that
may have crept beneath it. To facilitate their speedy escape, the .

» The greater the diameter, the less may be its depth, which is perhaps an advantage, as
saving the bees some trouble of ascent.

+ I lay great stress upon the careful avoiding of deal in any shape as a vehicle for sup-
plying food to bees, as I have found it has a tendency to turn it sour, especially if beer is
an ingredient in its composition, but even where honey has been given to the bees with a
deal float, [ have found it generate an acid—not only so, it seems to give a peculiar flavor to
the liquid, which renders it after a time unpalatable to the bees.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 09

holes which are made in this float may be three eighths of an mch
broad, and extending within half an inch of ‘the sides cither way. I
have found it useful to apply two or three broad gutta-percha or
India-rubber bands to the outside of the ascending tube, which is a
great assistance to the bees in finding their way back again into the
hive.

My autumn or winter feeder is exactly the same as the one just
described in all respects, save only that the ascending tube does not
exceed half an inch in height, or even less, by which means the bees
can get in and out of the feeder with the least possible trouble
and danger to themselves. Of course the depth of the feeder may be
proportioned to the height of the tube of ascent, taking care to allow
half an inch at least between the glass and the tube.

If a feeder of this sort be well placed over a hole communicating
with the most frequented part of the hive, the heat which rises from
the interior will make its temperature very agreeable to the bees,
even in cool weather; in this case, however, it ought to be well cov-
ered up with flannel, to allow of as little escape of heat as possible.
For spring feeding, especially, it would be extremely advantageous to
place a bee glass, (straight or perpendicular at the sides,) in the feed-
er, fitting so closely against its sides that the floats shall rise and fall
within it easily. In this way, (supposing the glass had a warm cap
over it,) even spririg feeding would lose all its dangerous concomi-
tants, as there would be little or no escape of heat from the hive
below.

In the large feeder, about a pound and a half or two pounds of food
may be given ata time, without danger of its pouring down the cen-
tre shaft into the hive; while the smaller will afford them as much as
they are likely ever to want in any single day, in cooler weather. I
can confidently recommend these feeders to general notice, both on
the ground of economy and usefulness. Their cost is trifling, and
their management perfectly safe and easy.

While I give directions for the make of a winter feeder, I wish it to
be understood that I by no means recommend winter feeding, except
in cases of extreme necessity, Indeed, I believe most bee writers name
too late a period for supplying the deficiency of a hive’s weight, when
they mention October as the most suitable feeding time. I would say,
feed in August or September, or soon after the final deprivation has

100 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER,

taken place for the year; that is, as soon as the bees have ceased to
increase their stores, or the queen’s autumn laying of eggs has evident-
ly relaxed; and for this reason—while the weather is warm, and the
bees therefore are more actively disposed, the process of feeding will
be the sooner over, because of the more eager consumption of food on
the bees’ part; besides it will avoid the danger of weakening the stock,
which so often takes place in cooler weather, later in the season,
owing to the bees being induced to quit the hive, in vain search for food
—and they will leave their hive under such circumstances, how often
never to return! Not only so, the earlier artificial food is supplied, of
course, the more honey will survive the winter consumption for the
spring use of the young bees, and the earlier and larger will be the
bee master’s spoil another year.

The best food undoubtedly is honey; but they will thrive, (I believe
my experience will warrant me in saying,) equally well on various
kinds of artificial food, in which, however, honey ought to form no in-
considerable ingredient. As a rule, I should say, feed with honey
slightly diluted in spring, and with prepared food in autumn. I can
recommend the following compound as being both economical, and
certainly very agreeable to the bees—witness my having reared one
stock upon nothing else through the winter of 1849, and two stocks,
(at least till the middle of March—the time of going to press,) through
the winter of 1850. The recipe for making it as follows :—To a quart
of wholesome table beer, (neither too fresh nor too old,) add three
pounds of Barbados sugar, or, (better still,) coarse loaf sugar, a glass of
sherry,* one and a half or two pounds of cheap honey, and a teaspoon-
ful of salt; the whole having been mixed together, and boiled for five
minutes, will make about half a gallon of food, with the addition of a
little water, which the bees will devour with ready gusto. The sher-
ry, I doubt not, acts as a beneficial stimulus to the bees ; and it cer-
tainly much improves the flavor of the liquid, although it also some-
what materially increases the expense.

Mr. Payne and Mr. Taylor both urgently recommend barley sugar,
as useful food for bees. It is, however, troublesome to make, and is,
further, almost, if not quite, as expensive as honey itself. Moreover,
it requires the presence of a certain degree of heat or damp to assist

* This may be omitted if thought necessary.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER, 101

the bees in converting it into a liquid, not to speak,of the length of time
which is taken up in the process of consumption. I must also confess,
it appears to me somewhat a work of supererogation, to turn a fluid
into a solid, for the purpose of feeding insects who must reconvert it
into a fluid before it can be of any possible use to them. It is well,
nevertheless, to know, in case of emergency, (as when the bee
master must be unavoidably absent,) that a side box filled with barley
sugar will save his impoverished hive from all danger of starvation.

CHAPTER XII.

OF CERTAIN INSTRUMENTS, EITHER USEFUL OR NECESSARY TO
BEE MANAGEMENT.

Besrpzs the different articles of use in the management of an apiary,
described in the early part of this volume, or in the course of the work,
there are one or two instruments which I should wish to recommend
to the reader’s notice before I conclude.

Instead of the zinc slides, which command the entrance way spoken
of in the last two chapters, of which some will have to be plain, and
others perforated with holes, a plate similar to that described by Mr.
Taylor, (see his “Bee Keeper's Manual,” page 75, fourth edition,) will
be found very useful. To quote his words—it is “a square sheet of
well-flattened tin, zinc, or copper, of four equal sides, made to slip
down in the grooves..... ‘Each side of the square gives an altered
mouth to the pavilion at pleasure, according as it is turned, being cut
with various-sized apertures; and one entirely closed except the per-
forations for ventilation.” Of these plates, (which will be attached to
the entrance blocks,) one will suffice for each colony, besides the com-
plement of other slides in the hive boards,

A bee dress, to which I have alluded before, is an indispensable arti-
cle of bee furniture. “Security from attack,” says Mr. Taylor, ‘‘is
essential to self-possession ;” “the first thing therefore that should be
procured by the amateur, is a bee dress; a simple covering of light
canvass, or strong gauze, (green is the best color for comfort,) of the
kind called leno, with or without sleeves, but securing the whole head
effectually, will answer the purpose sufficiently well.*

No apiary should be without a long spatula, and a set of bee knives,

* Mr. Taylor has given a sketch of a very advantageous form at page 176.

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 103

each of which will greatly facilitate the processes of comb renewal,
éxtraction of brood cells, and excision of the cradles of royalty; not
to speak of their use at the time of the

honey harvest. These may be of two i 9)
kinds if thought necessary ; of which the

one is in shape like a cheese knife. The |

other, (and the most useful,) is a piece of

metal, say a foot long exclusive of the handle, not thicker of necessity
than a goose quill, but having a kind of thin blade at the end, turned
at right angles to the staff, and sufficiently flat and sharp to cut through
the combs without bruising or breaking them. It must be pushed in
between the combs, pressed firmly against the roof of the hive, and
twisted round ; this will bring the blade in contact with the combs on
one side or the other, according to the intention of the operator.

An instrument of very great importance toa large out-door apiary
Ihave had constructed for my own use, and I can confidently recom-
mend it to the practical apiarian. It is a weighing machine, and it
consists of three poles of stout wood, equal in length, and seven feet
high, fastened by hinges to a triangular block of wood four or five
inches thick. The sides of the triangle may be severally six inches

wide. The poles must have spikes at the other end, to keep them
immovably fixed in the ground. This tripod, (if I may so call it,) is so
contrived—the legs closing together—that, when not wanted, it
can be easily stowed away; at the same time that it is readily re-
moved from one hive to another. To the under side of the trian-
gular block is fastened a pulley wheel attached to a screw, which

104 THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER.

penetrates the centre of the block. Over this wheel a cord
passes, one end of which is held by the hand, while to the other
end is fastened a spring balance, with a hook attached to it.
Three strings tied together at one
end, each with a hook at the other
end, to catch three eye screws fixed at
equal distances in the hive boards,
(which of course must be detached
from the pedestals,) are suspended to
the balance in such a manner that
the apiator, on pulling the cord, will
at once haul up the hive in a straight
line. An instrument of this kind, it
is evident, must greatly facilitate the
process of weighing garden hives,
which may-be repeated as often as
desirable, without the least trouble.
Ihave frequently used this machine
in summer time, when the bees were
in their highest state of activity, with-
out at all disturbing them; they fly
in and out, and show no signs of an-
noyance whatever. As it requires
more exertion of force to haul up a heavy hive, I would recommend
the use of a set of pulleys suspended from the centre of the triangular
block; these will materially facilitate the process of weighing.

CONCLUSION.

And now that I have drawn the practical part of my work to a con-
clusion, let me wind up my labors by wishing the candid reader as
much success in the scientific management of his bees as has attended
and I am persuaded will yet attend, the pains which I do not grudge
to bestow on the study of these admirable creatures. And while I
wish him success, I do more; for in this is included the pure pleasure
and the serene enjoyment which must be experienced in no small de-
gree while giving a close attention to the habits and history of perhaps

THE COTTAGE AND FARM BEE KEEPER. 105

the most intelligent, the most provident, and the wisest of all the
creatures, inferior to man, wherewith the good Providence of God has
peopled and adorned this lower world. If the wisest of men pointed
a proverb, by drawing the ant from her seclusion ; no less does the bee
merit attention as an example of industry, patience, sobriety, and loy-
alty. Let whosoever is awake to the voice of the Creator, speaking
through the works of His hands, OBSERVE, REVERENCE, and OBEY.

APPENDIX.

(A—PaceE 9.)

On the subject of the preference of bees for cool places, De Gelieu, the celebrated Swiss
apiarian, writes as follows :—‘‘It is commonly believed that an apiary is not well situated
unless it stands in the sun. This is an error; bees like the shade when working, and like
the sun only when in the fields, which then animates and sustains them .... They
thrive well in thick forests, and delight in them, because there they find a uniform temper-
ature anda propitious shade .... Itis a mistake to suppose that hives, exposed to the
sun produce the earliest and the strongest swarms ; Ihave oftener than once experienced
the reverse. My earliest swarms have generally come from the best-shaded hives, and
which only receive the sun late.” This testimony, coming from an apiarian of so much
practical acquaintance with bee-keeping, gained during the experience of sixty years, is
mostvaluable. Strange that it should have been so little acted upon, seeing the estimation
in which Gelieu’s work is justly held among us ; but it requires no little judgment to select
a favorable situation, in a northern aspect, for locating bee hives. The place chosen must
be snug and sheltered. The hives must be protected from high winds; and especially from
sudden gusts, or continued currents of air. These will often destroy hundreds of boes
in a few minutes, especially during squally weather, in March and April. The bees are
now anxious to avail themselves of every gleam of sun light; but if a sudden storm comes
on, with wind, they soon get fatigued, and on returning home not a few fall powerless to the
ground, never to rise save where the sun shines upon and revives them. Hence, in windy
weather, my bees are kept close prisoners till May at least.

Imay mention here, that when looking out last autumn, (1850,) for a suitable place where
to bestow two experimental or artificial stocks, belonging to an apiarian friend, we fixed
upon a hay-loft window, directly facing the north, which looked down upon a yard
well protected by tall trees on every side. One of these hives, composed of two families
united, regularly fed on artificial food, and this alone weighed upwards of 20 lbs. of con-
tents on the 28th of November—three months after its establishment. The other, consist-
ing of but one family of preserved bees, driven from a strong stock, which had swarmed in
the spring, weighed half this weight atthe same time. Both these hives are now, (March
20th,) in the very best health. The second stock was observed to carry pollen as late as the
4th of December ; which I make no doubt the other also did. I am not aware, from my
own observation of these hives, and the information I have besides obtained respecting
them, that they have been less disposed to move than other bees located fullin the sun,
save only in the latter end of winter, which is decidedly an advantage. Even on dark
days, (when the weather was mild,) they came forth with the same alacrity as other bees.

108 APPENDIX.

(B—PacE 19.)

I Have been curious to see what the best authorities have advised on the subject of the pro-
per dimensions of bee hives. As the result of my investigation may not prove uninterest-
ing to many who have not the opportunity of referring to those writers, Ido not scruple,
even at the hazard of prolixity, to entertain the reader with it.

In favor of large hives on the single-hiving or swarming system, I find an array of
weighty names, such as those of Butler,* Sir J. More,t T. Wildman,t Keys,|| De Gelieu,§
and Bonner, among the bee masters of more ancient times; nor are there wanting among
the moderns several, I may say many, stout advocates for the use of large hives... . On the
other side are to be found no old-established names that I have become acquainted with.
The earliest advocate I know for small hives on the single system is Dr. Bevan, (a great
authority certainly inmost bee matters,) in whose train follow a host of supporters well
and favorably known to the modern apiarian world, including Mr. Golding, Mr. Payne,
Mr. Taylor, and others; all of whom, however, are, from acknowledged experience, better
versed in the details of storification or collateral than of single hiving. None of these recom-
mend a size larger than thirteen and a half inches in diameter by nine inches high.

From what has been written above, it will appear that most English apiarians of the

* “Hives are to be made of any size between five and seven gallons, that any swarm, of
what quantity or time soever, may be fitly hived. The middling size of three pecks is most
profitable.”—Butler’s Feminine Monarchie. Oxford, 1634,

+ “ Your hive must be of any size between five and seven gallons, that any swarm, of
what quantity or time soever, may be fitly hived.”—Sir J. More’s England’s Interest.
Fourth ed., London, 1707. It appears that More copied from Butler, or both from some
third source.

+ Wildman, as is well known, was an advocate of the double hiving, ([ will not say,
storifying,) system, and recommends a small-sized hive ; yet Iquote him here as authority
in favor of large hives, on the single hiving principle, because it is evident that there is
no real difference whatever between one large hive and twosmaller ones affording the same
room, where these are put together almost immediately, and the second nadired, that is,
put under the first. Where hives are supered, (which aloneis properly termed storifying.)
the queen is confined to the lower hive (in nine cases in ten) ; but where they are nadired,
not only does she fill the upper hive with eggs, but, as comb is built below, she also occu-
pies and breeds in the lower box; and the sole object Ihave in view in recommending the
use of large hives, is to encourage the queen’s breeding for a longer time than usual.

|| Although Keys is a decided advocate of-storifying, (proper,) I find the following re-
mark in his Treatise (a new edition, London, 1814 :)—‘‘I think, in the single method, no
hive should be less than three pecks, or perhaps a bushel, but not more than twelve inches
in height.”

§ De Gelieu says nothing certain as to the size of hives, but, speaking of theirshape»
he has some observations which lead me, I think justly, to include him in the above list.
“T have invariably remarked,” he says, ‘‘ that bees thrive better in low hives than in high
ones ; that, in general, those which are broad and flat, or extended horizontally, amass
more honey, thrive better, and give out stronger and earlier swarms than those which are
high and of several stories.” Among the reasons which he gives for this opinion, is the
following weighty one, of which I most cordially approve :—‘‘ A hive thrives ONLY 2m pro-
portion to the success or perfection of its BROOD COMB,” which, he argues, must be gene-
rally defective in other than ‘‘ low, flat hives, (of course, single hives and large ones,) in
which the heat is more easily concentrated.”

q ‘As to the size, a hive that will hold about two and a half pecks, Linlithgow measure,
will hold a pretty large swarm; but there is no certain rule to judge what hive will be
exactly filled by a swarm. Much depends upon the succeeding season. If the swarm be
early and large, it will require a large hive; but, if. otherwise, the hive should be pro-
portionably less.’"—A New Plan, &c. Edin., 1795.

APPENDIX. 109

present day, including all the storifyers, (properly so called,) favor the use of small hives,
On the Continent, however, large hives are still in vogue; and if we want to see the pro-
fitable management of bees ona large scale, it is thither we must go—to the eastern coun-
tries of Europe more especially, where bee-keeping is as important a branch of rural econ-
omy as sheep-walking or grazing cattle is with us.

The attention of English apiarians has lately been drawn to the bee practice of these
countries, by the work of a Pole, which issued from the press not a year ago. Mr. Dobio-
gost describes the hive of his country as being three and ahalf to five feet in height,
about eight inches in diameter at top, increasing downwards gradually to twenty .nenes or
more at bottom, all inside measure! This isindeeda large hive, which our skeptics will
attribute to the invention of gentlemen of the long bow, from their utter ignorance of api-
arian lore. It is a fact, however, that such are the dimensions of the hives commonly in
use in Poland; and it is alsoa fact, that large as they are, they yet contrive to swarm with
as much regularity as the hives in use among us, while the parent stock remains vigorous
notwithstanding, for many years together. Mr. Dobiogost assures us that an apiary, con-
taining a hundred stocks of this size, will throw off about 150 swarms every spring, each of
such formidable power, that it resembles a small cloud, when hovering in the air. Itseems
to us almost incredible, that hives of such dimensions should throw off any swarms at all.
In opposition to the general belief among us, the author seems toattribute this circumstance
to the fact, that, on the first establishment of these stocks, four times as many bees are put
into them as we are in the habit of hiving together.

Such are the plain facts alleged by Mr. Dobiogost in respect to Polish practice; now let
us look into the reasons of them. JI find that Dr. Bevan scouts the idea altogether, that
strength in one year begets strength in another, at least in any reasonable proportion; and
he has brought forward the result of some very interesting experiments in proof, which I
once thought conclusive. Indeed, I still think that he is quite right in the inference he
draws from them,* when speaking of English hives,and our general mode of bee man-
agement, seeing that he has, I think, very satisfactorily proved that bee life does not extend
itself in general beyond six or seven months at the outside; for, according to his showing,
every bee born before the middle of July perishes soon after, if not before, the middle of the
following January, JT say, he is right, when speaking of our, that is, the small-hive sys-
tem of bee management, because, in such hives, be they single or storified, (observe, 1 do
not include nadiring,) the queen bee is seldom able to lay above a dozen eggs a-day, if so
many, in the height of the honey-gathering season, owing to the bees seizing every cell, as
soon as it becomes vacant by the exclusion of brood, asa receptacle for honey. Thisis the
history of the wide gap which most apiarians, from Huber downwards, have observed be-
tween the spring and autumn laying of the queen bee. It is not that she is unable or in-
disposed to lay, but that she has no room in which to put her eggs. Dr. Bevan tells us
that there arg two distinct layings of the queen; one, which he calls the “‘ great laying,”
taking place in the spring; and a second, a lesser one, in the autumn ; that is, in the month
of August, sooner or later, according to circumstances. In other words, he gives us to un-
derstand that there is an interval between the spring and autumn layings of the queen, in
which but comparatively few eggs are laid. If by this he means that there is a considera-

* Namely, That however strong the population of a hive may be in one year, that
strength will in no wise influence the prosperity of the same stock the following season ;
because how many soever the swarms that may have been introduced into one and the
same hive in any particular year, they “will all have paid the debt of nature before its
expiration.” }

110 APPENDIX.

ble suspension in the development of brood in this time, there cannot be a doubt about it,
where the hive is circumscribed (whether sideways or downwards) ; but if he would have
us believe that the queen so velazes in her laying of eggs, as almost to discontinue them
towards the latter part of June, and the most part of July, think he is mistaken. The
queen, I believe, finds no sudden disinclination to perform the office of a mother; itisa
gradual process on her part; she continues to lay, during that period, with undiminishing
energy perhaps as the season advance’, and certainly with greater good will and capability
than in August and September. The truth, however, is, that, lay as actively as she may,
she is wnable to deposit her eggs in cells, owing to want of room.- Every cell is, at this
season, requited for storing honey ; therefore, if she does not swarm, (in which case she at
once effectively resumes her office, and as fast and so long as comb is built downwards,
she fills every available cell with brood,*) she laysher eggs at random, and there is what is
called a cessation or a relaxation in her laying ; that is, a perceptible diminution in the
quantity of brood comb, and bees hatched, until honey begins to come in more sparingly,
when the cells again become empty, and the queen resumes her comfortable deposit of eggs
in them. This I believe to be the course with all small hives im general. It does not mend
the matter to supply room above ; for, where the bees begin their works from the roof of
the store room downwards, the queen very rarely ascends, as she is loth to quit her hold of
comb, and there is none to connect the new with the old works, so as to tempt her up, if
she were disposed to come. And again, where the bees work upwards, as they often do,
the comb is occupied with honey as fast as it is constructed, because it is an instinct of the
bees to store their food high up in the hive ; for which reason, as a saving of labor and ma-
terial, they usually build drone comb. Not onlyso; the queen, equally obeying an instinct
of her own, prefers to remain as near the hive entrance ; that is, as low down, as possible,
whence she loses the opportunity, if opportunity there be, which may happen to be afforded her.
Often have I observed a queen bee, about the middle of June, when every comb was more
or less filled with honey or brood, after perambulating the hive, stand on the edge of a comb,
and lay egg after egg, which were devoured by bees as fast as they issued from her body.
Now will anybody assert, that, if the queen had had plenty of empty comb in which to de-
posit these eggs, during the next six weeks, strength of population in one year, would not
beget a proportionate strength in another, especially after a mild winter, followed by an
early spring? Would there not have been many more bees hatched, which would survive
the perils and losses of autumn ; and increase, therefore, the winter temperature of the hive,
and so promote the earlier breeding in spring ? It stands to reason that there would. Itis
for this reason, that an argument in favor of large hives will, I think, be found in the ac-
knowledged fact, ‘that dry seasons produce most honey, wet ones most swarms.’? For
what does this prove, but that the little honey collected in the fields has enabled the queen
to deposit more eggs in the cells, (and at such times she will breed largely ever? in a swper,)
so that the population has increased so much the more rapidly, and with inconvenience to
the bees ? on which account they seize the first favorable moment to be off.

Now let us take the case of the deep Polish hive of Mr. Dobiogost, The bees of course
are huddled close together near the top, in the depth of winter; there they first clear
the comb of whatever honey may be stored in it, and there the queen begins to lay.
The shape of the hive near the top is admirably suited to the diminished size of the
population, although, I shall presently show, they are, in proportion, much more numerous

* And she generally anticipates them here, occupying each cell with an egg as fast as it
is constructed, before the bees can put honey into it.

APPENDIX. lll

that any of our stocks of bees at this season. The concentrated heat,* further husbanded
by the very solid materials of the hive, fosters, even in tho cold damp Polish spring, (when
the snow hills begin to thaw,) an early development of brood. Ax the population increases,
a greater quantity of honey is cleared away, and more cells emptied for the queen’s con-
venience. Downwards and sideways, silently but steadily expands the population, until
the spring is fully advanced, at which time, the bees of Poland are ina ar more forward
state than ours ; which are too often miserably reduced in numbers before they begin to
breed, From this time, their progress is rapid indeed; what cares the queen of such a col-
ony when the honey season approaches? The spoils of the year, rifled from a thousand
different flowers, are first stored high up in the hive, against the coming winter, while, as
the cells fill, the mother bee is only driven to a lower story; for there is plenty of room in
the four or five-foot-deep palace, both for her own incommoded laying of eggs, and the un-
interrupted storing of honey. The judicious excision of comb by the careful bee mastor
in the early spring is rather an advantage than a hindrance to her; for the bees work
beautiful fresh combs, along the edge of which she is generally to be found, depositing her
eggs in the cells often before they have attained their completion, and certainly before the
bees have felt the want or inclination to anticipate her, by converting them into honey
stores. Thus June passes away, but brings her no anxiety, as does the unhappy English
queen bee ; it only leaves her half way down her spacious dwelling, July and August
come, and still there is no necessary intermission to her labors, unless, indeed, as is very
probable, the population of the hive has so greatly increased, that she thinks it more com-
fortable to migrate; in which case, off goes the swarm, (as early perhaps as mid-June,)
‘so powerful that it resembles a little cloud in the air.” In the meanwhile, a younger
and more vigorous queen succeeds to the vacant sovereignty, who, with more comfort than
her predecessor, at last, owing to the diminished heat and the less pressing demand for
honey room, resumes the task of breeding, and continues it until the autumnal cold gradu-
ally relaxes her maternal cares, and drives her up among the combs.

The English bee master will, I am aware, object with me to the Polish system of bee-
keeping, that it does not provide for any collection of a purer kind of honey. This objec-
tion is a most solid and weighty one, as, whatever the Pole may get in quantity of honey,
he certainly loses in quality ; as Gelieu observes, these hives ‘‘have this disadvantage,
that capes, (or super hives,) cannot so easily be fitted to them, which facilitate the col-
lecting the finest honey.”’ But all I contend for is this, that we should meet this system
half-way, by adopting large hives on the single method, where, especially according tomy
plan, the hive is kept principally for breeding or swarming purposes, and not so much to
make a honey profit of it. And Iam persuaded we should thus get in general much more
powerful swarms for our spoliation hives, and by consequence, 2 much larger harvest of
honey.

(C—Page 29.)

Bonyza, (to whom, as a practical, experimental, and soundly-reasoning apiarian, I am
disposed to pay very great deference,) has the following observations onthe winter man-
agement of bees :—

‘When the frost is severe, or when the snow is lying on the ground, it will be necessary

¥ Even Gelieu, notwithstanding his eulogium of flat, broad hives, seems to have been
fully alive to this important feature in the Polish bee domicile. Thus he says, “ it is per-
haps for this reason that the bees thrive well in conical or sugar-loaf-shaped hives, which
are common in some countries.”

W2Z APPENDIX.

to prevent the bees from coming out of the hives by shutting up their entry quite close with
pob tow, which will keep them warm, at the same time that they will run no risk of suf-
focation in very cold weather. In extreme cold weather, the bees may be taken into out-
houses, which will preserve them fromcold. But, indeed, when the hives are properly cov-
ered, and the entries to them closely shut up, they will resist a very severe cold.

“Many ingenious gentlemen have tried different methods to preserve bees in winter.
Some have shut them up in cold outhouses from Septemiber to April ; others only from the
first of November to March. A third class place grates before their entries to admit air,
but keep the bees close in their hives during the whole winter.” :

He then observes, ‘that in general, long confinement is prejudicial to the health of the
bees... . I have seen the bees that have long been confined by cold, (perhaps
for ten weeks,) so diseased, that when good weather returned, and they came abroad,
very great numbers would have died within a day or two thereafter, and the hive in general
would have been greatly reduced. It is evident that their long confinement was the cause ;
but it is also certain, that even in those cold countries where the winter lasts eight months,
bees thrive and prosper well . . . . I have known bees do well, however, that had been
confined in their hives for five months, even in this country ; while others of them were
ready to perish by retaining their faces for so so long a period.”

Touching the vexed question of the superiority of a mild over a severe winter, or the
contrary, he remarks: ‘“‘Itis said by many writers on this subject, that a fine winter is
dangerous to the bees; and that many more die ina mild than acold one. They argue,
that as the appetite of the bees increases by their going often out, they consume their pro-
visions and die of famine ; whereas, when long confined in their hives, they hardly eat any.
J acknowledge that in a mild winter they do eat more food than in a cold one when they
cannot get out ; but this, as well as the fine air, contributes greatly to their health, besides
that they hatch earlier, and consequently increase in the number of bees in the hives
sooner. The fact is, that experience may convince any person that many more bees die in
severe winters than in mild ones. In winter 1776, which was very cold, a great many bee
hives perished; and also during last winter, (1794-95,) being an excessively severe one,
many hives were destroyed from that cause alone ; whereas in winter 1779, which was re-
markably mild, not one hive in twenty failed ; and the bees in general swarmed a month
earlier than usual.’”

(D—Pace 39 )

I gNow not whether for cottagers, Wildman’s method of bee management, after all, be not
the simplest as well as the most profitable. He puts a swarm into a small-sized hive, (ten
inches broad by seven deep,) madir-hiving it as soon as the bees have fairly begun to work
eomb in the super ; that is, ‘‘often,” as he says, ‘‘ the following morning.”* According
to his plan, the queen fills the upper hive first with brood as fast as comb is constructed ;
and when every available cell is occupied by an egg, and the bees have continued their
works to the lower hive, (which will be towards the end of the first week or ten days,) the
queen also descends, and breeds permanently below. In the mean while, as fast as the
young bees above are hatched out, the vacated cells are filled with honey, so that by tha
end of a month, (three weeks, Wildman says,) no brood will be found above whatever, but
an abundance of fine honey in comb but little less pure than virgin comb, because they

* Of this, however, I am inclined to doubt the advantage ; at least four days should be
suffered to elapse before giving the second hive.

APPENDIX. 113

will only have had one set of young grubs hatched in them. I have frequently taken honey
from such comb, and can speak very favorably of its quality, As soon as the top hive is
full of honey, it may be removed, (often within a month of the swarm’s establishment,) and
a third hive placed, not over, but wader the remaining one. In some extraordinary sea~
sons, the upper of these may also be taken away, and a fourth placed under the third. In
either case, the two boxes or hives last given must be suffered to stand together through
the winter, so that the queen may have both to breed in the following spring and summer.
It is evident in this way that the prime swarm would be a large one, (supposing the queen
to be in full vigor,) because the queen would have ample space to breed in; nor would it
issue much, if at all, later than the swarms out of ordinary hives. As soon as the prime
swarm has issued, Wildman directs that another hive should be set under the others, and
all casting prevented. Should a cast issue, its queen must, (he says,) be searched for and
destroyed, when the bees will return home again. This plan, however, may often fail,
owing to the successive issue of casts with every young queen who proceeds from her cradle
but the last. Ihave heard of the reissue of casts twenty times in one season from the same
hive, during all which time the bees were in a constant state of agitation, and collected no
honey! The only effectual plan to be pursued, is this, which I have advised in this book,
—on the issue of the first cast to turn up the hive, and cut out every royal cradle that
ean be seen. This done, the queen may be destroyed, (because there is already another
queen in the hive,) and the cast returned. "i

(E—PaceE 50.)

Tovcuine the fecundity of the queen bee, I am persuaded much error prevails among the
majority of bee keepers. Huber’s opinion was, that in the prime of the season, (in April
and May,) about 12,000 eggs are laid, which is at the rate of something like 200a day. I
have, however, long thought Reaumur’s statement far nearer the truth, which gives us
about 400 a day as the average. Dr. Bevan observes, that “ this variation, (in the accounts
of the two naturalists,) may have arisen from variety of climate, season, or other cireum-
stances.” Climate and season, doubtless, do exercise a great influence on the prosperity
of bees ; but I cannot think the difference of these so great as to prevail inany European
country to affect the average of the queen’s fecundity to so remarkable an extent. I think
we must look for a solution of the difficulty to the “other circumstances” at which-Dr.
Bevan hints. Might there not have been some disparity in age and vigor between the
queens which severally came under the observation of these naturalists? Or would not
the use of small or large hives, as] have suggested before, explain the difference? May
not Reaumur have formed his opinion from the data furnished from observations made
with the help of his great pyramidal hive, while Huber’s hive was of small size? May not
Shirach, too, (who resided at no very great distance from the confines of old Poland,) have
made use of hives similar to the Podolian hive? And he states his belief, that a single
queen will lay from 70,000 to 100,000 eggs in a season.

Since I penned my former note on the subject of large hives, my attention has been
drawn to the remarks of a Mr. Pettigrew, who wrote a series of articles about nine years
ago in the ‘Gardeners’ Chronicle.” His observations in general appear to me exceed-
ingly just. As they bear very much upon the subject of this note, as well as of the for-
mer, I may perhaps be pardoned for introducing in this place one or two exeracts from his
paper, of Jan. 6th, 1844, §

“No person, (he says,) will ever pretend to say that a queen bee can cease to lay when
she likes, or that she has control over the number of her eggs.’’ Hoe then suggests an ex-

F

114 APPENDIX.

periment “ to show that by keeping bees in small hives, you force them to destroy two-
thirds of the eggs which queens lay.” Next adverting to Dr. Bevan’s remarks, already re-
ferred to, as to the quantity of eggs, (12,000,) deposited in his hives “at the principal laying,
in April and May,” he observes, *‘if the Doctor would be at the pains of putting a swarm,
or two swarms united, weighing 8 or 9]bs., with a queen that has finished her principal
laying, into a hive containing twenty-four superficial feet of comb, he would find at the
end of seven days above 30,000 eggs set.”” At page 124, (of the Honey Bee,) he says,
“whatever advantage the putting of two swarms into a hive may give to a family during the
first year of its establishment, it can present none beyond that period; for the swarms that
have been introduced will have paid the debt of nature before its expiration, and are
thereby reduced to a level with those that were not doubled. Dr. Bevan is wrong
here, (continues Mr. Pettigrew,) for a swarm that weighs 8 lbs., (that is, of course
if put into a sufficiently roomy hive,) hatches double the quantity of one that weighs 4
Ibs., and consequently double the quantity of bees will live throughout the winter, set
double the quantity of eggs in the spring, and so forth.” He finishes by recommending a
size of hive ‘ for first or top swarms of from twenty to twenty-four inches wide, and from
twelve to fifteen inches deep.’’ Such large hives, however, seem to lie under much the
same objection as that I have adyanced against the use of the Podolian hive, namely, that
quality of honey if almost entirely sacrificed to quantity, which may do well enough
for the cottagers, but certainly will neither satisfy the amateur, nor, I think, the fastidious
purchaser.

In the same volume of the “‘ Gardeners’ Chronicle” which contains Mr. Pettigrew’s papers,
I find the following communication by an anonymous correspondent, who brings forward
the testimony of an actual eye witness to the extent of the royal bee’s fecundity. ‘“ The
history of the bee, (says this individual,) has been written with so much truth by Huber,
that little is left for inquiry. I know of but one error, which is, I presume, by the transla-
tor. The extraordinary fecundity of a queen is stated to be 200 eggs a day. A queen,
which deposited no more eggs than that, would never produce a swarm, on account of the
daily loss of bees which go out to the fields. I have had queens which laid 1,000 egas daily
for three months in succession. This summer, (1844,) in a glass hive containing one comb

four feet square, the queen deposited 800 eggs a day, or 16,000 in twenty days, 2,000 of
whom were males.”

(F—Page 52.)

I sHaut entertain the reader here with an extract from my note book, giving an account of
an accident which happened to me last summer, while making an artificial swarm, and its
remedy, which will show with what reason I give the caution in the text, as well as sug-
gest a method of extrication from a similar difficulty.

“29nd May . . Walked to to breakfast, which being ended, Mr. took
“Me to visit a farmer’s wife in his parish who keeps bees. There we found two magnificent
stocks, each with a great mass of bees depending from its board, well supplied with drones,
and only waiting the queen’s pleasure to be off. How great a temptation to our bee-driving
propensities was here! What experimentalist could have resisted the impulse to force an
issue on the spot! Good people all, learn a lesson from the following story, and do not
meddle with other people's bees! Eapertis credite. Having explained to the good wo-
man of the house, our own success in the matter of artificial swarming, and impressed her
with some notion of the advantage which would result from the process, or at least with
some degree of faith in our assurances, we obtained permission to form an artificial swarm

APPENDIX, 115

on the spot out of one or both of her hives. Each of us having his bee dress in his pocket,
nothing seemed easier; having, therefore, duly armed ourselves, and provided every need-
ful instrument to the process of driving, our patroness the meanwhile watching the pro-
ceedings from a barn window overlooking the apiary, J commenced tho operation in the
usual manner, my friend assisting. In a few minutes, thinking by the hum in the upper
hive that all was right, it was taken off, with a considerable swarm that had ascended into
it, and put on the stand whence the old hive was taken, at the same time removing this to
another stand, and confining the bees, which remained in considerable numbers, with a
list bandage. While we were congratulating ourselves on the success of our experiment,
aud were meditating an attack on the second hive, it suddenly became apparent that some-
thing was wrong with our newly-made swarm, The bees appeared restless and uneasy,
and the air was filled with a vast multitudo of them, having all the appearance of a na-
tural swarm that issued in the ordinary manner. Jn short, it was evident that they had
missed their queen. To make sure of her absence from among them, a cloth was spread on
the ground, and the bees that remained in the new hive were struck out upon it, the hive
itself being at the same time placed near them at the edge of the cloth, resting on a stick.
No doubt whatever now remained as to the cause of the commotion ; for though many of
the bees crawled towards the hive, and even entered it in eonsiderable numbers, they crept
out of it as fast again. In this dilemma, nothing presented itself to be done, save to unfasten
the bandage of the old hive and to restore it to its former place, that the outlaying bees
might find their way home again previous toa second attempt at driving. I am not aware
if such occurrence had been observed before, but at this juncture of affairs, it became evi-
dent that the wandering and distressed bees had begun to fraternise with their neighbors of
the other stock, which stood on the same shelf with themselves, at the distance of about a
yard. A great many were seen walking towards it with fanning wings, nor were they at
all ill-received, though I expected a mortal encounter ; it seemed as if a most amicable
disposition prevailed on the part of the uninjured stock towards its queenless neighbors. I
believe, however, they all returned afterwards to their own hive. But to return to my
story.

“Our calamities were not yet to an end, for in bringing back the old hive to its former
position, a large comb full of brood, in every stage of advancement, disengaged itself from
its fastenings and fell to the ground! Miserable now was the sight before us! As the re-
sult of our experience hitherto upon this poor woman’s bees, we had to show an irritated bee
population, a hive disturbed and mutilated, a large quantity of brood lying damaged on
the ground, and not a few of the brave insects dead, How heartily did I repent having a
hand in such a business.

“ After much pondering and planning, my friend declared his resolution rather to destroy
the hive altogether than to leave it in its present condition, a monument against the uni-
versal success of artificial swarming. At the worst, compensation could easily be made in
an ample manner. But how to proceed was the difficulty. At first nothing presented but
to attempt driving again, as the only chance of retrieving our damaged reputation. On
proceeding, however, to lift the hive again from its stand, to our utter amazement and hor-
ror, down fell a second brood comb, as full of young grubsand eggs as the former! De-
spair seized upon us both as we stood aghast at this fresh calamity. Doubtless the great
agitation of the bees and the heat of the weather (for it was very warm) was the cause of
this double misfortune.

“The explanation was easy enough, but how to remedy the evil was the question at this
juncture, A sudden and happy thought fortunately crossed my mind, namely, that by
the help of these two combs, (which were filled, as I said before, with eggs and brood of all

116 APPENDIX.

ages,) we might still make a good artificial swarm on a different principle to that we had
intended, so as, in fact, to test the Shirachean system. I proceeded accordingly to prop one
comb against the other on the old stand, at an angle of about forty degrees, while my
friend placed the hive over them. Nosooner was this effected, than all the bees, which had
hitherto been swarming about like demented creatures, began hurriedly to enter, with
buzzing wings and every token of joy, so that in an incredibly short space of time the bees
were as busily employed in pursuing their usual avocations asif nothing whatever had
happened. The removal and fastening up of the old hive closed the labors of this eventful
morning. After explaining the matter as best we could to the bees’ mistress, we returned
home vexed indeed, yet on the whole rejoicing that there was still good hope of success
after all that had happened.”

To the above I have to add the following extract :—“ Dec. 12. Paid a visit to Mr. —-,

and called at the —— farm to inquire after the fate of our artificial swarm. It was reported
to have been found “very heavy” in the autumn, when its owner gathered in her honey
harvest of the year. .. Theold stock out of which this was formed sent out no after-

swarm ; it was, however, rich in honey, and the bees had filled up the void place among the
combs.”

(G—PagE 55.)

I SHALL here suggest to the experimentalist a somewhat different treatment of his spolia-
tion swarms to that pointed out in the text, of whose practical value, however, I cannot
speak from experience.

In most parts of England honey only abounds in the fields, and woods, and meadows, in
any surplus quantity, during the eight weeks following the 20th of May in average years.
It is evident, therefore, that the more exclusively the attention of the bees is directed during
this period to the object of collecting it, the larger becomes the profit of the bee master, and
in a ratio proportionate to the population of the hive. Now it has occurred to me, that if
we could altogether prevent breeding in a populous hive, the stores of honey garnered in a
favorable season would be immense, as the bees would thus naturally devole their whole time
and energies to this object, none being employed in nursing and tending the young; and in
this way, that the grand secret would be disclosed of obtaining the maxinuum quantity of
honey at the least possible expense of bee labor. I conceive that this might be effected by
destroying the queen of a prime swarm, and compelling the bees to rear a succession of ar-
tificial queens, by supplying them from time to time with pieces of worker comb contain-
ing eggs or very young larve. At the same time care should be taken to allow none of
these queens to arrive at maturity, or to remove them, (if young queens should be wanted
elsewhere,) the instant they emerge from the cell.

Should this method of treating a hive be thought worthy of a trial, 1 would recommend
a close attention to the following directions, as being the most likely to insure success. Let
the swarm issue naturally or artificially, and hive it temporarily in the usual manner.
Now procure a suitable piece of worker comb by cutting it out of the parent stock, or of
some other hive, taking care that there be not only very young larva, but eggs also. Next
putaclean new hive upon its own bottom board, and arrange the fragment of comb,
(which should be about three inches square,) over one of the holes at the top of the hive,
under a small glass just large enough to holdit. This being done, substitute this hive for
the stock from which the swarm about to be experimented with proceeded, removing the
old hive to some distance. Now search for the queen of the swarm by dashing them all out of
their temporary abode upon the ground, and destroy her when secured. The bees, on re-

APPENDIX, 117

covering from their stupor and missing their queen, will, as is usual in such cases, fly away
one by one to the well-known locality of their old dwelling. In an incredibly short time,
(though of course much agitated at first,) the swarm will have comfortably established itself
in its new dwelling, as soon as the piece of comb in the bee glass is detected, and their al-
tention turned to it, as the nursery of a new dynasty of queens. Somewhere between the
tenth and fourteenth day after, the glass must be removed and a fresh one substituted for
it, having another piece of suitable brood comb adjusted inside, and so on every fortnight,
until the honey harvest is concluded, when, on plundering the hive, not acell will be
found defiled with the necessary pollutions of comb that has had brood in it. It is evident
that according to this plan any number of youthful queens may be reared to substitute for
old queens of other stocks, whose vigor is supposed to be on the decline.

To this most profitable plan of managing prime swarms, on the spoliation system, I can
only imagine one objection, namely, that the combsof the new hive, although free from
the defilement of brood cells, might yet be filled with useless hoards of pollen, stored up by
the provident insects in anticipation of a day of need. How this would be I cannot tell ;
Tonly throw out these suggestions for the ideration of the curious apiarian. As to the
ultimate fate of the bees, they would, if left to themselves, gradually dwindle away by
natural death, so that not one probably would be found alive by Christmas. The most
humane method of dealing with them, therefore, would be to fumigate and drown them
afterwards, or destroy them over the brimstone pit.

Since writing the above, the admirable work of Bonner has come into my hands, who, I
find, had an idea of the advantage which might accrue from the early removal of itsqueen
from a hive destined for autumn plunder. ‘If I intended to killa hive of bees in autumn,
(he says,) I would prefer the taking away their queen from them about the end of July,
and leaving a great number of common bees in the hive, which, as they would have few
bees to nurse up, would collect a greater quantity of honey in that period than if they had
a queen in the hive daily laying eggs for them, which would employ a good number of
the bees both to hatch and nurse up the young, and thereby the fewer would be employed
in collecting honey.”

(H—Page 57.)

I aM not aware that any experiments have been instituted, or, at least, their results pub-
lished, which tend to explain the probable consumption of honey in the elaboration of wax.
This is a question of considerable importance in apiarian economies, as it would teach us
the value of this latter substance, and lead to a discouragement of all unnecessary con-
struction of comb, in the event of its being found the costly article which I am disposed to
believe it is.

The pound of wax sells for, at least, double the money that a pound of average honey
will fetch in the market ; whence, it might, at first sight, seem desirable to encourage
comb making ; but this, a little reflection will show to be a mistake; for, if wax be a
secretion from honey, as all apiarians are now agreed in believing it to be, it requires no
further proof to satisfy us that honey is, in reality, the costlier article of the two. If this
be granted, and I do not see how it can be denied, it remains to be proved that the differ-
ence is so great as to make it an important point in bee management to discourage the
unnecessary elaboration of wax. Asastimulus to future experiment, anda clue towards
arriving at some definite and certain knowledge upon the subject, I insert here the follow-
ing extract from my note book, the purport of which I have already communicated to the
“ Cottage Gardener,” as follows :— i

118 APPENDIX.

“Huber tells us that he has found coarse sugar yield alarge quantity of wax, and of a
paler color than honey. If this be true, some experiments that I have made in the rearing
of artificial stocks this autumn, (1850,) have opened my eyes to the very great costliness of
waz in the economy of bee management. Having driven the population of four stocks, on
the Sth of August, and united them together, I located them in a spare bee box in my win-
dow apiary, and fed them with a preparation of sugar, honey, salt, and beer, for about
five weeks, Although they consumed about 50 lbs. of this mixture, (the same as that
described in Chapter XI. of this volume,) at the end of that time the box was found to
weigh no more than sixteen pounds of contents, that is, minus the box only. Of this —
reckon about 12 Ibs. to be stored food, bees and 34 lbs. bee bread, and the remaining half
pound pure wax orcomb. Thus, ifthere be deducted from these 46 lbs. of food the ac-
tually stored 12 lbs., there remain 34 lbs. to be accounted for. The actual consumption of
any considerable quantity of it as food can hardly be imagined, for my other hives were
maintaining themselves all this time almost entirely upon what they still collected in the
fields. For instance, one hive, whose population was the most numerous, diminished in
weight 3 lbs. in the interval between the Sth of August and the 29th of October; a second,
3 lbs. 8 oz, between the 3rd of August and the Sth of November (when I buried it); a third,
(whose position I changed at the end of July,) 5 lbs. between the 8th of August and the
12th of October. Now I do not think that the increased activity of this experimental hive,
will anything like explain away the 34 lbs. by supposing so enormous a consumption as
food, even allowing that their appetite was proportionably excited; thus, there remains
nothing for us but to conclude that by far the greater part, say at least 25 1bs., was con-
sumed in elaborating the half pound of wax, employed constructing the comb.”

We cannot of course form any certain conclusion from this fact, because we have yet
to ascertain whether pure honey or the prepared food, of which I made use, contains the
larger quantity of the waxen element. As this is a question of no little importance, I
would gladly induce some experimental apiarian to join me in my endeavors to ascertain
the truth in this matter, which 1 propose to attempt in the course of the approaching sum-
mer or autumn.

(I—PageE 83.)

Ir seems necessary that I should caution the reader against a too indiscriminate or system-
atic destruction of his queen bees, without adue regard to circumstances. I have stated
that, as a general rule, I believe the queen bee to be in her prime the second twelvemonth of
her existence ; and in stating this, I but repeat what other naturalists and bee authors
have stated before. Therefore, as a rule, it follows that, where it can be done judiciously,
a succession of young queens, not exceeding two years old, should be kept up by a biennial
removal of the old ones. But it must be borne in mind, that all queens are not all equally
prolific or fruitful mothers : therefore, in the event of a queen’s having proved herself an
extraordinarily good breeder one year, it will be for the apiarian to consider whether he may
not become a loser by exchanging her for a younger queen. I myself should by all means
permit her to reign a third summer, and, it may be, even a fourth, should her vigor not
seem too considerably abated, but this very rarely. In judging of a queen’s vigor, again, it
must be borne in mind, that the same mother who in a thinly-peopled hive would be a
bad breeder, would probably prove very fertile in a populous stock. And for similar rea-
sons, a queen born ina very strong stock would turn out more prolific than a princess
reared in a weak hive—whether artificially or naturally reared, it matters not.

APPENDIX. 119

The bee master cannot greatly err, thorefore, who oxchanges the queens of his strong
stocks fréennially, though, no doubt, in the end, he would find it more profitable to change
them every two years.

(K—Paae 96.)

Attaouen the account of my discovery of this plan of uniting bees has been communicated
at different times to the “ Cottage Gardener,” I may be pardoned for re-introducing it
here, as it may be interesting to some who have not seen it in that periodical. The fol-
lowing is an extract from my communication to this paper :—‘‘ I hit upon the plan accident-
ally, as I was hesitating between the adoption of the fumigating or sugar and water
drowning process of uniting bees, one or the other of which is recommended by apiarians.
Iwas quite unused to either of these plans, and somewhat dreaded the experiment. ‘The
scene of operation was the small nursery back garden of some excellent friends of mine,
who had kindly permitted me to make what use I pleased of the population of five cottage
hives, which they intended to plunder, and the time was 84 P. m., on the 9th of August,
1849. After trying what I could do with one hive by fumigation, and having made a terri-
ble mess of the affair, I proceeded to try the sugar and water drowning process ; to effect
which, I proposed first to drive into separate empty hives the population of two strong
stocks; and then, after sprinkling them with sugar and water, to mix the bees together.
‘The job, however, appeared so awkward and filthy, that my heart greatly revolted against
it; however, there seemed no remedy, so to driving I went. A magnificent second-year
stock, as full of bees as it could hold, (the more bees the better for the success of the ex-
periment,) was successfully driven in about fifteen minutes into an empty hive, which was
taken off and put gently aside until wanted again. The few remaining bees next were
fumigated with sulphur before being taken into the house. Another fine and populous
stock was then turned up as before, an early cast of the current year, but instead of placing
an empty hive over it as before, it suddenly crossed my mind to try what driving into the
other already temporarily-occupied hive would do—the empty hive, I mean, into which
the population of the first hive had already been driven. But would they not fight and
destroy each other? If they did, thought I, I have yet two good stocks to fall back upon ;
so, in an instant, the tenanted combless hive was gently replaced over the now reversed
east, and to driving we went in good earnest. ‘Hark! what an awful buzzing!’ said my
companion ; and, indeed, I began to dread a general massacre as the hum increased ; pres-
ently, however, as our tapping ceased, the hum. died away, and profound silence reigned
within. My success was complete, for, on taking off the upper hive, an enormous mass of
bees was disclosed to view, hanging motionless in thick clusters from the roof, united to-
gether in great apparent harmony and tranquillity. The few remaining bees in the old hive
were sulphured as before ; and our united hive was suffered to remain till morning resting
over an empty bucket, within two yards of their old locality, and covered with a sheet.
Great was the activity of our newly-formed stock, the next day, (but no signs of war
were visible,) till about 24 v. m., when I shook them all out upon a sheet on the ground
in front of the box which was destined for their reception, into which they all immediately
crept after their queen. As soon as they had nearly all left the cloth, the conquered queen
was discovered in front of the box, dead, but still surrounded by an escort of bees, who paid
her the last tribute of respect and loyalty. The box, containing the now united swarm,
was transferred the same evening to my own apiary, where it remains to this day.”

THE END.

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C. M. BAXATON,

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Residences, with Details, Specifications, Plans, and Directions, and an estimate of the
Cost of each Design. By John W. Ritch, Architect. First and Second Series ouarto,
bound in 2 vols., sheep, $6. Mail edition, paper, 85.

Domestic Medicine.

Gunn’s Domestic Medicine; or, Poor Man’s Friend in the Hours of Affliction, Pain, and
Sickness. Raymond’s new revised edition, improved and enlarged by John C Gunn.
Svo. Sheep. $3.

Saxton’s American Farmers Almanac for 1852.
Per 100, $3.

Family Kitchen Gardener.
Containing Plain and‘Accurate Descriptions of all the Different Species and Varieties of
Culinary Vegetables; with their Botanical, English, French, and German names,
alphabetically arranged, and the Best mode of cultivating them in the garden, or under
glass ; also, Descriptions and Character of the most Select Fruits, their Management,
Propagation, &c. By Robert Buist, author of the American Flower Garden Directory,
&c. cloth or sheep, 75 cts. ; mail edition, paper, 50 cts

Practical Agriculture.

Being a Treatise on the General Relations which Science bears to Agriculture. Deli-
vered before the New York State Agricultural Society, by James F. W. Johnston,
F.R.S. 8.8. and E., Professor of Agricultural Chemistry in Durham University, and
author of Lectures on Agricultvral Chemistry, with Notes and Explanations by an
American Farmer. Cloth, 75 cts.; mail edition, paper, 50 cts,

Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology.

By J. F. W. Johnston, M.A., F.R.S. 50 cts.
Youatt and Martin on Cattle:

Being a Treatise on their Breeds, Management, and Diseases; comprising a full History
of the Various Races; their Origin, Breeding, and Merits; their capacity for Beef and
Milk. By W. Youatt and W. C. lL. Martin. The whole forming a complete Guide for
the Farmer, the Amateur, and the Veterinary Surgeon, with 100 illustrations. Edited
by Ambrose Stevens. $1 25.

Youatt on the Horse.

Youatt on the Structure and Diseases of the Horse, with their Remedies. Also, Practi-
cal Rules for Buyers, Breeders, Breakers, Smiths, &c. Edited by W. C. Spooner,
a ee With an account of the Breeds in the United States, by Henry S. Ran-
all. .

Youatt on Sheep:

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added Remarks on the Breeds and Management of Sheep in the United States, and on
the Culture of Fine Wool in Silesia. By Wm. Youatt. 75 cts.

Hoare on the Grape Vine.

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United States. 50 cts.

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The American Agriculturist :

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in ten vols. Svo., containing nearly four thousand pages. $10

Johnston’s Agricultural Chemistry.

Lectures on the Application of Chemistry and Geology to Agriculture, New edition,
with an Appendix. BL 25.

Stephens’ Book of the Farm.

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Worker, and Dairy Maid. By set Stepliens. With Four Hundred and Fifty Llus-
trations; to which are added Explanatory Notes, Remarks. &, by J. 8. Skinner,
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The Complete Farmer and American Gardener,

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Chemistry Made Easy,

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Brandy and Salt,

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Southern Agriculture.
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Elements of Agriculture. Translated from the French, and adapted 1o General Use,
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and Operations of all the principal Fertilizers and Manures in Common Use,’ ‘with
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Browne. $1.

Youatt on the Pig.

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»The Farmer’s Treasure.

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The Practical Farrier.
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The American Farrier.
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Principles of Practical Gardening.
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Spooner on the Grape.

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cts.

The Young Gardener's Assistant.

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The Fruit, Flower, and Kitchen Garden.

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The Fruits and Fruit Trees of America. ;
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Do. do. do. do, colored, 15 00

Dictionary of Modern Gardening.
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The Rose Fancier’s Manual.
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Parsons on the Rose.
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Hovey’s Fruits of America. ‘

Containing richly colored Figures and full Descriptions of all the Choicest Varieties
cultivated in the United States, in 12 numbers.

History, Treatment and Diseases of the Horse,
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Rural Economy,

In its Relations with Chemistry, Physics, and Meteorology. By J. B. Boussingault.
Translated, &c., by George Law. $1.

Liebig’s Agricultural Chemistry.
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The Modern System of Farriery,

As Practised at the Present Time at the Royal Veterinary College, and from Twenty
Years’ Practice of the Author, George Skevington, M.R.V C. $5.

. Ewbank’s Hydraulics:

A Descriptive and Historical Account of Hydraulic and other Machines for Raising
Water. $250.

The Fruit Garden.

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The American Fruit Culturist ;

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The Rose Manual.

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The Plants of Boston and Vicinity.

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The Indian Meal Book;

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The Horse’s Foot,

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Catechism of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology.

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Chemistry Applied to Agriculture.

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British Husbandry.

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Loudon’s Arboretum.
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Loudon on Gardening.
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Loudon on Agriculture.
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Loudon on Trees, &c.
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The Farmer’s Dictionary.
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Practical Treatise on the Grape Vine.
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Practical Treatise on the Veterinary Art.
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Sheep Husbandry.

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Agricultural Chemistry.
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Animal Chemistry.
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Cottage and Farm Houses,
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Country Houses.
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Sportsman’s Library.
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Landscape Gardening.

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Chaptal’s Agricultural Chemistry,

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American Husbandry.
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Gardener's Dictionary.
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Journal of Agriculture.
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Downing’s Horticulturist.
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Do. do. half yearly “ 2 00.

The Complete Produce Reckoner,

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The American Shepherd.

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The Principles of Agriculture.

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Lectures to Farmers on Agricultural Chemistry.
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The Complete Cow Doctor,

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A Home for All;

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European Agriculture,
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Elements of Practical Agriculture.
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Rogers’ Scientific Agriculture, wets.
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Stable Talk and Table Talk. 4.
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Johnson’s Farmer’s Encyclopedia.
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Scientific and Practical Agriculture.
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Armstrong on Agriculture. 50 cts.

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Hovey’s Magazine of Horticulture.
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Downing’ Horticulturist.
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Agriculture for Schools.
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Text Book of Agriculture.

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Chemical Analysis.

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Youatt on the Horse.
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Blacklock’s Treatise on Sheep. sos.
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American Flower Garden Directory.
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The American Cattle Doctor.
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Maury’s Navigation.

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ville (14th century) to William Cowper (close of the 18th century); consisting of
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Harrison on the English Language.
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xford. $l.

LECTURES
ON THE
GENERAL RELATIONS WHICH SCIENCE

BEARS TO

PRACTICAL AGRICULTURE,

DELIVERED BEFORE THE

NEW-YORK STATE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY.

BY

JAMES F. W. JOHNSTON, F.R.SS. L.&E.

WITH NOTES AND ADDITIONS

NEW YORK:
C. M. SAXTON, AGRIULTURAL BOOKSELLER,

THE

FAMILY KITCHEN GARDENER;

CONTAINING

PLAIN AND ACCURATE DESCRIPTIONS

OF ALL THE

DIFFERENT SPECIES AND VARIETIES

OF

CULINARY VEGETABLES:

BY ROBERT BUIST,

AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN FLOWER-GARDEN DIRECTORY, ROSE MANUAL, ETC.

NEW YORK:
C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET,

ALSO, STRINGER & TOWNSEND, H. 7.ONG & BROTHER, W. F. BUR?
GESS, DEWITT & DAVENPORT, WILSON & CO., DEXTER &
BROTHER. BOSTON: REDDING & CO. PHILADELPHIA 3
W. uy. ZIEBER, LINDSAY & BLAKISTON.

AN

ESSAY ON MANURES,

SUBMITTED TO THE TRUSTEES OF

THE MASSACHUSETTS SOCIETY

FOR

PROMOTING AGRICULTURE,

FOR THEIR PREMIUM.

BY SAMUEL L. DANA.

ema

vy)

From the New York Observer:

Essay on Manures. By Samvet L. Dana

This Essay contains much useful information for the practical farmer, in a
small compass, in reference to the nature and management of manures imme-
diately under his control ; the knowledge and practice of which will amply com-
pensate for the expense of ascertaining its value.

NEW YORK:
C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET.

ALSO, STRINGER @ TOWNSEND, H. LONG & BROTHER, W. F. BUR-
GESS, DEWITT & DAVENPORT, WILSON & CO., DEXTER &
BROTHER. BOSTON: REDDING & CO, PHILADELPHIA:

W. B. ZIEBER, LINDSAY & BLAKISTON.

THE AMERICAN FARM BOOK:

or,

Compend of American Agriculture,

€ontaining a concise and plainly written Exposition of Duties pertaining to the
Cultivation of the Earth, the Management of the Farm, &c., &c., on prac:
tical scientific princivles,

BY R. L. ALLEN,

whe cheapest and most valuable book for a farmer ever printed: being a com
plete Guide, both practical and scientific, for the

MANAGEMENT OF THE FARM.

Bosides the varied practical knowledge which this book imparts, and which is
dispensable to the pee management of every department of agriculture, it

ives the elements of other information highly necessary to a successful farmer,

History, Geology, Chemistry, Botany, Anatoray, Physiology, and Mechanics.
These branches of knowledge are given as applicable to agricultural pursuits
and when properly understood will essentially aid and assist the farmer. In fact
a knowledge of these sciences is a sure key to wealth for any agriculturist. I
gives the mode of preparation, and the effects of all kinds of manures ; the
srigin, texture, divisions, and description of every variety of soils ; the economy
af sowing. reaping, and mowing, irrigation and draining; cultivation of the
rasses, Clovers, grains, and roots; Southern and miscellaneous products, 4s cot-
lon, hemp, flax, the. sugar cane, rice, tobacco, hops, madder, woad, &c. ; the
yearing of fruit—apples, peaches, pears, plums, grapes, &c.; farm buildings,
sedges, &c.; with the best methods of planting, cultivating, and preparation
for market. Illustrated by 100 engravings.

The reader can form some idea of the above work, from the fact that it treata

* 800 different subjects important to a farmer. It contains 354 pages, andi
beautifully bound in cloth, gilt, suitable for a library. Price only One Dollar.

Notices of the Press. x

The author has been one of the most able contributors to the agricultural pres
or the last. ten years ; aside from this he is a practical farmer and stock-breeder
and consequently knows from his own experience what he is writing about. -
Commercial Advertiser. .

This book is by a gentleman of known experience; the work is exceedingly

4eap, and the farmer will find it a valuable book of reference.—N. Y. Express. |

It is in fact a brief encyclopedia on the subjects treated, and the farmer will
fui appropriate information on almost any subject coming within his reach—
New York Observer.

Here is a book for the million, precisely what its title indicates. Compassed
witbin its pages, the reader will find the subject of soils, manures, crops, and
animals, treated in a style easily comprehended.—Spirit of the Times.

This work is what might be expected from one so well qualified for the under-
taking.— Boston Cultivator.

We are glad to meet a publication which can interest, as well as improve the
condition of the human race. We commend the work to every American farmer.
—Christian Intelligencer. e —_

_, Why shall not every good farmer economize his muscles by storing his mind?
We hope this book will find its way into many family and school-libraries.—New
York Tribune.

It ought to be found in every farmer’s library.—Jerseyman.

It is really a great satisfaction to get hold of an American treatise on Agricul-
ture, that has a fiber practical, common sense character of its own. The author
of this work is eady known to the roca! public as.a thorough practical
farmer and stock-breeder. That he well knows what he is about on a farm, these
pages abundanty show. No mere book-maker could have written such a book;
and we may add, also, that no mere piactical farmer could have written it. A
‘¢good practical work” can only be written by a man who has both thought and
acted well. What.distinguishes this volume, is its conciseness, its clearness, an
its perspicuous treatment of the subject in hand. We think, therefore, that Mr
Allen’s volume, the basis of. which is goed practical farming, as practised by th
best cultivators in the United States, with an intelligent reference to those princa
ples of science which lie. at the root. of all successful practice, is likely to be of as
fauch or more real service to. us, than any work on agriculture vet issued. ‘rom
the pregs, and we gladly commend it to the perusal of every ons of our readers
engage in the cultiva;ion of land —A. J. Downing’s Horticulturist

Missing Page

THE AMERICAN BEE-KEEPER’S MANUAL,

BY T. B. MINER.
350 pp. 12mo. 85 Eaaravinas. Paice $1.

PUBLISHED BY C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTCN ST., N. ¥.

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.
“The most complete work on the Bee and Bee-keeping we have yet seen.”—
N. Y¥. Tribune. .
“ Mr, Miner has handled this subject in a masterly manner.”—WN. Y. True Sun.

“He has written a work of the most fascinating interest.’”—N. £, Sunday Dis
patch. .

“Jt will interest the general reader. It is indeed a charming volume.—Com
mercial Advertiser. .

“This is a truly valuable work, and very interesting.”— Morning Star.

“It is decidedly the best work we have ever seen.”’— Boston Daily Muil.

“ MIr. Miner has performed his task with signal ability.”—Scientific American.

“lt does high credit to the observation and intelligence of the author.””—Chris-
tian Intelligencer.

This is the most comprehensive and valuable work on the Honey-bee that
has ever come under our notice.’’—Journul of Commerce.

“To appreciate the value of the honey-bee one must get this book and read it
attentively..”.—Noal’s Messenger.

“ We like it for its independent tone, and the amount of practical information
that it contains.”—Literary World.

® We have been greatly edified and entertained by this bgok, from which the
reader will cc.Ject a great deal of excellent information— The Independent.

“ This is probably the most complete manual of the kind ever published. It will
rich) 7 repay the general reader, too, by the variety of interesting facts it com-
tains.” —Boston Traveller.

“Tt is a most excellent and useful treatise, and happily supplies a vacuum
that had long existed.””— Boston Times.

“This volume has all the charm of aromance and admirably displays the
habits of this insect.”"— Organ.

“This volume is what it apactenis to be, (more than can be said of many works)
end all who want a full and thorough history of the nature and management of
of the bee should have it in their possession.”’— Scientific American.

“It is neatly aie well illustrated and clearly written and contains a great
@eal of practical information.”’— Mirror.

“ This work probably contains better instructions in regard to bees than any
which have ever appeared.”’— Sun,

“The practical directions are the result of evident experience, and being
plainly and concisely stated, are excellent, 1t is so rauch better than can be
obtained elsowhere that we commend it to favor.”-—-N. Y. Evangelist.

It ia an excellent book and tk? dest published 0. tke subject.”---Boston Oliva
Branch.

LECTURES

ON THE

APPLICATIONS OF CHEMISTRY AND GEOLOGY

TO

AGRICULTURE.

“The profit of the earth is for all ; the king himself is served by the field.”"—Eoelea. v. &

BY JAS. F. W. JOHNSTON, M.A., F.R.SS. L. & E.,

FELLOW OF THE GEOLOGICAL AND CHEMICAL SOCIETIES,

Honorary Member of the Royal Agricultural Society, Foreign Member of the Royal
Swedish Academy of Agriculture, &c. &c ; Chemist to the Agricultural
Chemistry Association of Scotland, and Reader in Chemistry
and Mineralogy in the University of Durham.

NEW EDITION, WITH AN APPENDIX,

CONTAINING SUGGESTIONS FOR EXPERIMENTS IN PRACTICAL AGRICULTURE

NEW YORK:

C. M. SAXTON, AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHER,
No. 152 FULTON STREET.

A PRACTICAL TREATISE

ON THE

CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE VINE
ON OPEN WALLS.

WITH A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF AN
IMPROVED METHOD OF PLANTING AND MANAGING

THE

ROOTS OF GRAPE VINES.

BY CLEMENT HOARE.

TO WHICH IS ADDED,

AN APPENDIX,

CONTAINING

REMARKS ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE VINE IN
THE UNITED STATES.

NEW YORK:
C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET.

THE

AMERICAN ARCHITECT,

Somplete in 24 Nos, at 25 cents each, or $5 for 24
Nos. $6, bound in 2 vols.

PUBLISHED BY C. M. SAXTON, NEW-YORK.

Tue object of this publication 1s to introduce ORIGINAL DESIGNS of Country
Seats adapted to the varied taste and circumstances of an American population :
from the elegant ViLLa to the simple Corrags and plain Farm-Hovuss ; trom
Puanters’ Mansions to VitLace Domicits. In a word, every variety of Rurau
RESIDENCES will be embzaced, in order to meet the views of every person desiring
a Country House. In respect to style, cost, arrangement, finish, &c., utility
will never be sacrificed: economy in the outlay, with an appropriate style, wil
always be kept in view. The requisite details, specifications, plans, and direc
tions, with a careful and reliable estimate of the cost, will accompany, each design
These are essential features of a Practical Work, and no labor will be spared in
their preparation.

Of the diversity of haman dwellings, whether marked by elegance, convenience.
or utility, or by the want of them, none can compare in national importance and
philosophical interest with the Farm-House—the Homestead of our species.

A triple value attaches to that class of men which feeds all others. With pri-
meval farmers, man’s social faculties were first unfolded. With them society
began: and among whatever people its shaft has become polished and its capital
enriched, it still rests on the cultivators of the soil. So, of their profession, agri-
culture is the great parent of the arts, while its prepared products will forever
oe the most essential of all manufactures. Then it was in their dwellings that
Architecture itself had its birth; it was they who first abandoned the tent with

astoral life, and began to devise and construct fixed and permanent abodes.

The estimates we give are based on New York prices; including the best ma-
verials, workmanship, and finish. There is no doubt that m many parts of the
country, they may be materially diminished in every one of these respects—ever
to the extent of one-half.

The selection of designs by those about to build Country Residences is com
monly attended with embarrassment and always with ae When furnishea
zy professional men, from general ideas communicated by proprietors, they are
seldom satisfactory. The American Architect, by furnishing a collection of designs
adapted to all tastes and means, will remove every difficulty in the choice, and
gave money expended on Plans of no use. It will furnish twelve Elevations,
Plans, and Specifications in each year, at a price not exceeding one-seventh of
the usual charge for one.

Every handsome residence adds value to the grounds attached to it ; hence the
importance of having such, by those who invest capital in this species of property.

With regard to utility—the proper distribution of the apartments and ther
adaptation to the purposes intended is the most important point to be attended
to, and they are governed by the Plans.

From among the great number of notices, we select the following :—

“The price is only 25 cents for each number, and it is surely next to impossible
but that such a periodical will obtain a wide circulation.”—New York Tribune.

“This work promises to supply a want which has long existed, and to be ot
essential value.”—Salem Register.

“This work cannot fail to be useful and popular.”’— bcston Bee.

“This is a good and beautiful work, and well adapted to effect a much desired
reform in American Architecture.”—Boston Traveller.

Th: Cost of building from the Plans given, will be from $600 to $5,000, wita
comp tte Specifications from a first-rate Mason and Carpenter, and the prices
given ‘an be deperded upon.

GUNN’S DOMESTIC MEDICINE,

OR POOR MAN’S FRIEND; IN THE HOURS OF AFFLIOTION PAIN
AND SICKNESS, A SAFE AND RELIABLE GUIDE.

RAYMOND’S COPY, PRICE THREE DOLLARS,

Tuts Book points out in plain language, free from doctors’ terms the Diseases
of Men, Women, and Cimidren, and the latest and most improved means used in
their cure: and 3s intended expressly for the benefit of families. It also contains
descripticas of the MrpicaL Rovurs anp HERBS OF THE UNITED SraTEs, and how
they are to be used in the cure of diseases. It is arranged on a new and simple
plan, by which the practice of Medicine 1s reduced to principles of common
sense.

This invaluable book has passed gta many editions; it has now been re-
vised and improved in every respect, and enlarged to nearly double its former
size ; and contains nine hundred octavo pages.

1t does not propose to dispense with physicians in severe cages. But it does
propose to save thousands and tens of thousands annually, by posune the means
of cure into every man’s hands, and of saving many valuable lives (which is of
far more iraportance) by instructing individuals how to check disease in its begin-
nings, before it has acquired too much strength to resist and overcome.

Opinions of the Press.

“We seldom take up a book of this class with any favorable impressions; for
we fear quackery and =pretension have been at work for the ‘poor man,’ but i
this work all our prejudices were conquered. Professional men as well as others,
we see cheerfully recommend this book; which has, in 1ts ample pages, much of
the necessary instruction to ward off or to cure disease.”—New York Express.

“Tt is written in an easy, plain, and familiar style, and points out the diseases
of men, women, and children, and the latest and most approved means used in
their cure. The language and arrangement are so simplified as to bring it within
the capacly of those who possess a very limited education. The object and de-
sign of the author seems to be to remove all that technical phraseology which is
used in medical works generally, and thus simplify the practice of that science
which the head of every family should be acquainted with. It is generally recom~-
mended to our professional readers as a guide in cases where it is not deemed
necessary te have the services of regularly educated practitioners. This book
should find a place in every family.”—Boston Mail.

“ This is a work of Family Medicine on the plan of Dr. Ewell. It is the most
olain-written, untechnical book of the kind we have met with; a decided improve
ment on both Buchan and Ewell. It is printed in a very superior style, revised
from the first edition, and containing a variety of useful information not hitherto
taid before the vulgar eye. It treats of the passions. It has also a catalogue of
medicines, with their properties and doses, and the diseases and manner in which
they are treated ; comprising a svnoptical Materia Medica, exceedingly useful in
families, and mre particularly t. captains of vessels and planters, who cannot
conveniently procure medical advice. It is an excellent book.”—New Orleans
True American.

“Tf we judge of the merits of the book »y the immense number of copies already
sold, and the very flattering testimony of medical men of the first standing, (and
among the number, several of the most distinguished members of the faculty in
our city,) it is a vaiuable compendium of the modern practice of physic, and must
prove a valuable assistant to families, particularly in sudden emergencies, and in
all situations where regular professional attendance cannot be commanded.”—
Louisville Journal. scree

“The great advantage it possesses over all other books of the kind is, that the
author has avoided all Latin terms; this is what has brought Dr. Gunn's work
mtc such extensive family use.”—New Orleans Picayune. _ .

“Asa medical Vade Mecum, it has for years stood high; and now, since its re-
vision, (Raymond’s copy,) will take the lead of all similar works.”—Mobile Danly
Advertiser.

“Its extensive sale has established ‘ts worth, and stamped it as a standard and
useful book.”—Kentucky Gazette.

OF On the receipt of Biss Daleens Dr. Gunn’s book will te sent, free of
e, to any part ofthe United States.
‘All letters rise be addressed, (post-paid,) toC.M.SAXTON, FonronStr
gifs Copy” is the only complete editien and is so marked on tha back

AMERICAN BIRD FANCIER;

CONSIDERED WITE REFERENCE TO THE

BREEDING, REARING, FEEDING, MANAGEMENT, AND PECULIARITIES

CAGE AND HOUSE BIRDS.

Tlustrated with Engravings

BY D. J. BROWNE,

AUTHOR OF THE SYLVA AMERICANA, THE AMERICAN POULTRY YARD, ETC.

NEW YORK:
C. M. SAXTON, 152 FULTON STREET.

ALSO, STRINGER & TOWNSEND, H, LONG & BROTHER, W. F. BURGESS,
DEWITT & DAVENPORT, WILSON & CO., DEXTER & BROTHER,
PHILADELPHIA: W. B. ZIEBER, LINDSAY & BLAKISTON.
BOSTON: REDDING & CO.

THE
AMERICAN POULTRY YARD;
COMPRISING THE
DRIGIN, HISTORY, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT
BREEDS OF
Domestic Poultry;

WITH

Complete Directions for their Breeding, Crossing, Rearing,
Fattening, and Preparation for Market ;
Including Specific Directions for Caponising Fowls, and for the
Treatment of the Principal Diseases to which they are sulyect.

DRAWN FROM AUTHENTIC SOURCES AND PERSONAL OBSERVATIO™
IWWustrated by Numerous Engravings

By D. J. BROWNE.

With an Appendix, embracing the Comparative Merits of
Different Breed of Fowls.

By SAMUEL ALLEN. -
Price $1, in cloth—75 cts. with paper covers.

Published by C. Ml. SAXTON, 152 Fulton Street, N. W
S ee ee

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.

Mr. Browne was bred and brought up a practical farmer. ' From his intimate know
ledge of the history and habits of our domestic animals, having:devoted, probably,
more attentien to the subject, as a whole, by reading and observation, than any other
individual in the country, the task of preparing this work was assigned to him.~
Salem Register.

The style of the engravings and the mechanical execution of the work are excellent
—Maine Farmer.

a extensive work on poultry, embracing every information desired.—_M. H. Tele
graph.

We commend the book and the subject to the thoughts of farmers.— Vt. Watchman

Every one who may purchase a copy, upon a perusal of the same, will ne fully satis
fed that their money was well spent.—Bristol Phenix.

It is one of the best treatises on the Domestic Fowl ever published. pNipa lle,

adium.

The details into which this book enters, on all the subjects connected with the pro
fitable raising of fowls, are precisely of that minute, and practical character which is
needed. Y. Evangelist.

We are glad to see that the evident demand for information on the subject of
rearing Domestic Fowls as corn out so valuable a work as the ore before nea Y .
Daily Tribune. %e

It contains matter to interest and instruct upon almost everything that concerns the
poy yard, and bears the impress in its pages that its editor was well qualified to

‘wifill the task he undertook.— American Farmer, tt

Itis the most complete book of its class ever published, and quite indispensable bh
all who are interes in raising poultry.—Charleston, S, C. Weekly Gazette.

No farmer among us would remain a day longer without the work, did he but kno
its value.—Rahway Register.

It is unquestionably the cheapest and best work of the kind extant, and should ha
a place in every farmer’s library.x—Germantown, Ohio, Gazctte.

“The volume is enriched by an Appondix from the the pen of Mr. Samuel Allen, an
experienced breeder of fowls, who haa taken mach pains to improvo the stock: | in this
country... Y. Weekly Tribune. | OE Te

THE AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST;

A MONTHLY PERIODICAL

Wesigned to (mprove the Harnrer, the Planter, the Stock=Iree
and the Worticulturist.

. A. B. ALLEN, Epiror.

“ Agriculture is the most healthy, the most useful, and the most noble employme
of man.” —W ASHINGTON.

TERMS.)
FOR SINGLE COPIES .. ONE DOLLAR PER ANNUM.
THREE COPIES ...... TWO DOLLARS.
EIGHT COPIES ...... FIVE DOLLARS.
TWENTY COPIES...... TWELVE DOLLARS.

The AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST is now in the seventh year of ‘‘s public
From its commencement it took a high stand ; and has ever since been consi:
by the press and all unbiased judges, as the LEADING PERIODICAL of its
in America. It has a large and rapidly increasing circnlation throughou
United States, the Canadas, and other British possessions, the West Indies
South America; and we may fearlessly assert, that it has given more reliab
formation on rural subjects, and been perused with greater general satisfa
than any paper of the kind yet published.

The American Agriculturist treats of every description of domestic an
and poultry ; their characteristics, breeds, the best and the worst ; their adv
ges and disadvantages ; their mode of breeding, feeding, rearing, and treatr
their uses, profits, management, &c. It also treats of all cultivated crops, i
ding fruits, shrubbery, &c. ; the best seeds, mode of planting, cultivating, gz
ing, and preparing for markets ; the general principles of vegetation and the
of vegetable life. It describes the principles of mechanics as applied to mac
ry used by farmers and planters; the best machinery and implements for
culture, their uses and the particular superiority of some over others, and
adaptedness for particular purposes, &c.

Address all subscriptions to C. M. SAXTON, 123Futron St., New York.

It also gives the latest improvements in those implements which may have
made, and suggests others ; tells where they are to be found, and the benefit:
will follow from their use. It also specifies new objects of cultivation, and
they may be better prepared for a profitable market and more general use. "
are a part only of the objects of this paper; yet they, with the other su
treated, are of universal interest and general application. Nineteen-twentieths
that is to be found in it is of the same use to one part as to any other p
America. Yet we find people constantly objecting that it is not printed in
particular section of country, and that it is not suited to their wants. D
make any difference where a boy acquires his education, provided it bea
pne and he be correctly taught? Where he studies his profession of dix
medicine, or even law? Cannot he take the principles he has acquired, and
them equally well in any part of America? Are not the blessed sunli
heaven, the rain, the dew, the heat, and the frost, though sometimes differi
degree, of equal relative effect wherever they are felt, whether within the t
or the polar circles, the eastern or western hemisphere?

If the question were as to a choice between a good paper printed here or
it were another matter. But througheut extensive regions this is not the
and it is either a good paper or none “ all; and even if there were one for
particular section of country, we w‘gat still urge a general circulasion {i
ew ; for no one will embrace all tha: is important to be known.

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