UL
ELE
TT -
oe ALBERT R. MANN
ee LIBRARY
NEw YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
AT
CORNELL UNIVERSITY
EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS
BEEKEEPING LIBRARY
Cornell University
Library
The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.
There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu3 1924003652009
Liu
6281 €2D'EzS 4s
Aleiqiy Aytsuaay dD
UN 1aus0.
Card og eee © ape
Art. 12.4
jqto. 2-
pera La gph/ lt IF
QUINBY’S
NHW BEHE-KEEPING.
The Mysteries of Bee-Keeping Explained.
COMBINING THE RESULTS OF FIFTY YEARS’ EXPERIENCE, WITH THE
LATEST DISCOVERIES AND INVENTIONS, AND PRESENTING THE MOST
APPROVED METHODS, FORMING
A COMPLETE GUIDE TO
SUCCESSFUL BEE-CULTURE.
+ BY .
L. C. ROOT,
PRACTIOAL APIARIAN.
WITH 100 ILLUSTRATIONS, AND A PORTRAIT OF M. QUINBY.
NEW YORE:
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
245 BROADWAY.
1879.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by the
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
CONTENTS.
PREFACE, ...cs000neeserse dais Gislaiasinainnone
MEMORIAL OF M. QUINBY.. .......
INTRODUCTION......... 020.202 cece eee
BEE-KEREPING ; THE OLD AND THE NEW
CHAPTER I.—Tse Honex-Bex.
Simple Facts in Its Natural History—The Queen—Workers—Drones—
Construction of Comb—Gathering and Storing Pollen—Gathering
and Storing Honey—Propolis and Its Use—Brood Rearing—When
it Begins—Form of the Brood-nest—Process of Egg-laying—Prep-
arations for Swarming—Facts and Theories Concerning Generation
—Fertile Workers. ..
CHAPTER II.—Iratran Bres.
Italian or Ligurian Bees—First Introduced into America—Characteristica
How to Procure Italians—Color not an Absolute Test of Purity—
Other Varieties ....:..04..0««: ei#pieistealee snes se dsieeeevQeESeH Teese
CHAPTER III.—Sources or Honey.
Sources of Pollen—Early Honey Plants—Singular Fatality Attendant on
Silk-weed — Basswood—-Later Honey Plants—Buckwheat—Honey
Dew—Do Bees Injure Grain and Fruit !—Injury to Ripe Fruit—How
far will Bzes go for Honey ?—Best Season for Honey................
CHAPTER IV.—TsHE Aptary.
Preliminary Study—Location—Immediate Surroundings—Bee-Keeping
in Cities and Villages—Arrangement of the Hives—Distance Between
Hives—Hives should Set Level—Disadvantages of High Stands—
Marking the Location—Moving Bees Short Distances—Shade—Bee
Houses—House Apiary—When to Purchase Bees—Where to Buy—
Transportation Beneficial—How to Select Swarms—Expense of Bees
and Fixtures—Transporting Bees—Taking Bees on Shares—Financial
Results—Overstocking........... Bierce ce divisoss, dep aSiareeigieigipiatew mainte
CHAPTER V.—ConrTro.iine BEEs.
Their Disposition—Smoke a Controlling Agent—Modes of Using De-
eayed Wood—Quinby Smoker—Mceans of Protection—Suitable Dress
for Women—Interest Dispels Fcar—Remedies for Stings............
5
23-39
3343
48-66
66-87
87-94
v1 CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI.—Hrvzs anp Boxes.
Movable Comb Hive—Construction and Advantages—Intelligent Manipu-
lation Necessary—Hanging Frame or Langstroth Hive—Frames—
Division Board—Side-boxing Hives—Observatory Hive —New
Quinby Hive—Standing Frame—Panels or Side-boards—Small
Bottom-board for Quinby Frames—Outcr Case not Always Essential
—Complete New Quinby Hive—Position of the Frames—Stands for
Hives—Alighting Boards—Roofs—Painting Hives—Accuracy Essen-
tial— Honey Boxes—Section Frames Objectionable—Two-comb
Boxes—Block for Setting up Boxes—Single-comb, or Section Boxes
—Construction of Section Box—Guide Combs—Separators—The
Clamp..... ws isin lnoveia/ ied She: Sin ain Gu miariatate aig SiSiniSiesate'e. igioieteiaiois auaeia sieeaveisisie sisson 95-125
CHAPTER VII.—TRANnsFERRING.
Advantages—Time to Transfer—Preliminaries—Process...........0..++.125-129
CHAPTER VITIL— QUEENS.
Importance of Selecting Good Stock—Fertilization in Confinement—
Rearing Queens; When to Rear—How to Rear Queens—Another
Method—Forming Nuclei—Queen Nursery—Queen Cages—Introduc-
ing Quecns—Clipping Queens’ Wings—Process—How to Handle a
Queen—Age of Queens—Drone-Laying Queens—Loss of Queens—
Indications of Loss—More than one Queen in a Hive................129-152
CHAPTER IX.—Naturat anp ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
Natural Increase—When Swarming Commences—Indications of Swarm-
ing—Preparations— Which Bees Compose the Swarm—Immediate In-
dications of a Swarm—How to Hive them—Emergencies—Separating
Swarms—Swarms Returning to the Old Hive—After-Swarms—Pre-
venting After-swarms—Artificial Increase—Straight Combs—Controll-
ing Swarming—Non-Swarming Hives—Methods — Depriving of a
Queen—Suggestions—Hints for Exceptional Seasons...,..... ....+.152-172
CHAPTER X.—Boxine anp Surpivus Honey.
Putting on Boxes—Removing Boxes—Care of Box Honey—Presence of
Larve—Suggestions for Securing Choice Specimens of Honey..... 172-179
CHAPTER XI.—Tut Honey EXTRAcTOR AND ITs Use.
Its Value—Description—Desirable Features—The Use of the Honey Ex-
tractor--When to Extract—Arranging Hives for Extracting—How to
Extract—Curing Extracted Honey—Honey Knife—Sccuring Extra
Combs of Honey—Securing Guide Combs—Relative Amount of Box
and Extracted Honey. ............... aa vaereasedare: si Cae teeeeesass 180-190
CHAPTER XII.—Wax anv Coms.
Wax—Honey-Comb—Size of Cells—Hexagonal Shape not Essential—
Cost of Comb—Artificial Comb—Supplying Material for Comb—
Comb-Foundation—Sheeting Wax—Wire in Foundation — Advan-
tages of Wire—Heavy Foundation Preferable—Uses and Value of
Foundation—Fonndation in Surplus Boxes—To fasten Foundation in
Frames—Expense of Foundation Machines—Rendcring Wax........190-203
CONTENTS. Vil
CHAPTER XIII—FEepina.
Its Necessity—What to Feed—Preparing Food—Feeders—Honey in
Combs for Spring Feeding—Feeding to Secure Surplus in Better
Form—Honey Should be Warm when Fed................ aidtaiene seiensio 204-211
CHAPTER XIV.—Rosgine.
General Remarks—Indications—Remedies.... ... ainthivesh aasieeiiesk ees 212-216
CHAPTER XV.—DisEases AND ENEMIES OF BEEs.
Dysentery — Foul Brood—Indications of Foul Brood—Remedy—Due toa
Fungoid Growth—Remedy—Parasites—Bee Moth—Where their Eggs
are Deposited—Development of the Larve—Destroyed by Severe Cold
—Remedies—Moth-Proof Hives—Rats and Mice—Birds—Ants, Toads
PONE: SIGS icici xine key baaieuind sade rk eaxeedrpnauanedyeanaaces + 216-231
CHAPTER XVIL—MaRkEETING Honey.
Subject of Importance—Neatness— Objection to Large Cases—Two-story
Cases—Small Cases Popular—Preparing Boxes for Market—Grading
Honey—Packing Honey—-Marking Cases—Reliable Dealcrs—Material
for Cases—Manufacturing Cases—Transportation—Preparing Ex-
tracted for Market—Process of Liquefaction—Kind of Package.....232-240
CHAPTER XVII.—WrinTerne.
Preparing Bees for Winter—Perfect Quiet Essential—Ont-of-Door Win-
tering—In-Door Wintering—Artificial Heat—Dryness—Best Arrange-
ment of a Cellur—A Special Building for Wintering—Clamps— When
to Place Bees in Winter Quarters—Flight during Winter—Setting
out Bees too Early in Spring—Healthy Excrement always Dry...... 241-255
CHAPTER XVIII.—Honeyr.
Uses as Food and Medicine—Adulteration of Syrups—Different Qualities
of Honey—Extracted Honey—Adulteration of Honey........ Saison 255-260
CHAPTER XIX.—NorTEs FoR THE SEASONS.
Spring—Summer—Autumn—Winter...... sluetoniouts se neataeecene scenes en 5s QO0-263
CHAPTER xx.
CONclUsiON.... cacccecscssccncccccncccccescccceterteensteessnersaeesee 0+ Q0d ROE
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Portrait of Mr. Quinby
ueen
roups of Bees
Worker......
Sting of Wor!
Drone... ...
Eggs and Larvee.
Ovaries of the Qu
White Clover........
Alsike Clove
Motherwort .
Silkweed . j
Basswood or Linden -
Fuller's Teasel.......
Wild Teasel.....
Smooth Sumach.
Golden Rod
Hives upon Roofs at Ilion, N. Y.... 6
View of Author's gas! %
House Apiary of J. H. Nellis, Cana-
oharie, N. Y...
The Quinby Smoker. a6
The uinby Smoker, Improved.... 91
The Bee Veil..........ceseee weeeee 92
Iron for Holding Frames...
Hanging-Frame » Hive and nik 2
Hanging-Frame. mice seas
Division Board..
Observatory Hive
New Quinby Hive, with Frames A
BOXES iisviecesinsicsinacdswineine Faster 103
Standing Frame... .. .....+-+...0e 105
Hook on the ‘End of Standing
Brame i ics cdsrtaniaennerie vienna ie "106
Form for Building la i
Panel for Side of Frames. . c
Panel, Improved........-..+.0ee08- 107
Small’ Bottom-board for Quinby
Hive oncuos is sgeteraiessescegenaes 103
Quinby Frames and Boxes in
Clamps
Large Bottom-board, with Frame.. 110
The ' Quinby Hive Clasp aria taheasisiatatete 11
The Quinby Hive with Roof...
Roof for Hives........ sss eeee
Tin for Corner Posts of Boxes...
Two-Comh Box, 6 Honey-Board.
Block for Setting up Boxes. ..
Standard for Tops of Boxes..
Tin Point for Holding Glass..
Section Boxes...............-
_ Form for Making Section Boxes.
Separator .............4. mibiepeet
Improved Separator.
An Empty Clamp............
Clamp Filled With Boxes... ae
Frame Containing Six Boxes.......
Frame Containing Three Boxes. ...124
Transferring Board mo
Transferring Sticks
8
Transferred Combs... ..-+e+-2-e+- 128
Nuclcus Box 133
Comb with “Brood for Queen Rais
comb with Brood Inserted in Comb.134
Queen Cells Built upon Comb ......135
meen Nursery......-.seeee seeeee ee 186
ucen-Cell Box.. 141
een Cages....... 143
ueen with Clipped Wing.......,. 147
rood of Drone-laying ues in
Worker Cells............65 150
poets Cells over Drone Brood .....150
luster of Queen Cells and a Queen
Cell cut from Comb .............
Everett’s Honey Extractor..... ... 180
The Excelsior Honey Extractor....181
A Two-story Hive......... ayabeonateiass 184
Van Deusen’s Clasp.. 184
Straight Honey Knife.. . 188
Curve-pointed Honey Knife.....! 188
Bingham & percent gsiinn 8 Honey
Knife iiss oseswnes: ve ciesee os Yacaies 188
Wax 190
Machine for Making Metallic Comb.193
ST of Setting up Metallic
Distorted Cells in Foundation. 2.2. 197
Comb Foundation with Wires..... 197
Machine for Making Worker-Comb
Foundation.... .-...... ajemenesaver 198
Swiss Wax Extractor....... :
The Author's Wax Extractor. 203
Feeder for Suinby: Bive on Panel, ,206
Van Deusen’s Feede! 208
ee of HUE Combis ‘for Feed.
The Toney y Bug...
Prichodes ‘Apiarius. nate dome ste seats
Seed-glass for Examining Parasites. 332
* American a heaieiae ie
he Beomo soia esbuecvapsraiare Sistwisisiasare’s
The: Women Gallery Removed
Larva of Bee-moth.........-
Cocoons of Bee-moth. .
The Bee-killer.............
Three Sizes of Honey Boxes.. "
Eight Five-pound Cases Recased. . .234
eee Cans of Extracted Honey in
Cas
waarcs of ana Hive Prepared
for Winter ics. ic sevnies ciceeene on
Thermometer ....-......-0. cscs eee
Double Clamp for Wintering Bees.. Bol
PUBLISHERS’ PREFACE.
When the former edition of this work appeared, in
1866, it marked a great advance in the literature of the
Apiary, and at once became the standard authority.
Very soon after its issue, the process of extracting honey —
was introduced, and almost revolutionized the practice of
bee-keeping ; this had hardly become an established suc-
cess when comb-foundation demanded attention, and re-
quired other modifications of former methods. These
great improvements were tested, simplified, and adopted
by Mr. Quinby, and with a view to present these and
other new methods, he was planning a new edition, when
his sudden death occurred, at the age of 65. Thus was
arrested a career of nearly half a century, during which
he had devoted himself to the improvement and devel-
opment of bee-culture, all of the fruits of which, in dis-
coveries and inventions, were freely given to his fellow-
laborers and the public.
Though Mr. Quinby was prevented from preparing his
contemplated new edition, the results of his later years
of labor are not lost. The work fell to the hands of Mr.
L. CO. Root, his son-in-law, as well as his business associ-
ate for many years. That Mr. Root is favorably known
as an Apiarian, is shown by the fact that he was, for
9
x PUBLISHER’S PREFACE.
-
many years, President of the Bee-keepers’ Association,
and he now properly succeeds Mr. Quinby in literature,
as well as in business. Indeed it is fortunate that the
unfinished task of Mr. Quinby has fallen into the hands
of one who was so familiar with his methods and thought ;
while he presents Mr. Quinby’s later views, as none other
could have done, he greatly increases the value of the
work by adding largely from the results of his own ex-
tended experience. It has not been found practicable
to indicate which of the new matter is by Mr. Quinby or
which by Mr. Root, as the record is often of their united
experience ; both being more desirous of establishing use-
ful facts than of claiming the credit of their discovery.
PREFAOKE,
It is well known to those familiar with the previous
editions of this work, that Mr. Quinby wrote and offered
it to the public, with a hope of awakening a clearer con-
ception of the immense quantities of honey annually pro-
duced by the bloom of field and forest, and of utilizing
these hitherto undeveloped resources, by encouraging a
more general adoption of bee-keeping as a pursuit.
The figures which he gave at that time, seemed incredi-
ble to the uninformed, yet he lived to see his own expec-
tations more than realized, in the rapid progress that has
since been made.
During the latter years of his life, he was particularly
anxious to embody his ripest experience, and most impor-
tant discoveries, in a new and thorough revision of his
book ; and had his life been prolonged a few years, this
work would have been done by his own hands.
Encouraged by the publishers, and inspired by the
wish to fulfill his desire to keep step with the progress of
his beloved pursuit, I have endeavored to prepare this
revision, and compile the results of his experience ; and.
thus, so far as lies within my power, carry out his idea
of still farther elevating bee-keeping to the honorable po-
sition it deserves, as a scientific calling.
I have thought it desirable to retain, as far as possible,
Mr. Quinby’s original language upon points which he
developed with much clearness, and in which but little,
if any, advance has since been made. This is but just to
him, when we remember how indefatigable and painstak-
ing he was, in his efforts to arrive at the exact truth,
when he was not only unaided by any of our modern fa-
cilities for investigation, but rather, was impeded by all
the obstacles which popular ignorance and current preju-
dice could present.
I have been unable to reproduce literally much of his
later writings on topics of. recent development, as they
XI
XII PREFACE,
mostly appeared in periodicals, and needed condensation ;
yet, much of the matter presented is really but the re-
sult of his observations, expressed in my own language.
Very many views have been advanced as worthy of con-
sideration and adoption, which might have been corrobo-
rated and strengthened, by quoting the sanction and prac-
tice of many reliable bee-keepers ; but in many instances,
I have omitted to do this for lack of space, trusting that
all will believe that nothing has been recommended, that
has not been put to a practical test.
I must express my indebtedness to many of our lead-
ing writers and practical apiarians, for many ideas and
suggestions that have been of much value to me, and
which, true benevolence dictates, should be disseminated.
for the good of all, And I am also under no small obli-
gation to the enterprising ‘‘bee-men” of foreign coun-
tries, both of the past and present; and although be-
longing to far distant countries and nationalities, every
true bee-keeper must feel that their love for the study of
the Honey-Bee, is a bond of sympathy which makes us
all brethren.
While I have thus been greatly aided in many ways,
my confidence in an ability to accomplish Mr. Quinby’s
intentions, has been chiefly derived from the circum-
stances of my intimate association with him during the
latter part of his life, when a half century of assiduous
toil and study had well fitted him to become a teacher in
his special vocation.
Combined with this, I have had an active personal ex-
perience of ten years in bee-keeping (making it my ex-
clusive business) ; and thus, I hope to sustain the orig-
inal reputation of this work, for “simplicity and relia-
bility” and at the same time, to make it, what the
author designed it to be, a comprehensive and practical
treatise on ADVANCED Bez CuLTURE.
May, 1879. L. C. Root, Mohawk, N. Y.
MEMORIAL OF M. QUINBY.
By Capt. J. E. Herwerinaton, Curerry Vauiey, N. Y.
I approach the task before me with mingled feelings
of love, admiration, and duty ; love for the man, cemented
by intimate friendly relations with him for more than
twenty years. J went to him when a mere lad for in-
struction in bee-culture, and he so beautifully unveiled
the wonderful mysteries of the natural history and prac-:
tical management of the honey-bee, that I left him that-
day, impressed as I had never been before. As I after-
wards learned to know him, I found that his kind,
considerate manner, and evident pleasure in imparting
instruction, were but the manifestation of qualities of
heart and purpose, strongly marked in his character.
My admiration for his sterling, manly attributes, and
eminently useful life, inspire me to attempt, in a small
measure, to discharge a duty resting on me, in common
with every bee-keeper in the land; that of putting in
some enduring form, a tribute to his unselfish life-work
in promoting the science of bee-culture.
His writings have made their impress on bee-literature,
and his name is familiar in every home where honey
bees are kept for pleasure or profit. Thousands are
to-day enjoying a delicious and wholesome article of
food that would have remained ungathered, except for
his earnest advocacy of the business as a source of revenue
to the nation, and profit to the bee-keeper. He wasever
unselfishly urging people to adopt this calling, that the
millions of pounds of honey annually going to waste,
might be garnered for the use of mankind ; and he devoted
XIII
XIV MEMORIAL OF M. QUINBY.
the best of his life to imparting instruction that would
lead to this end. Thus, through his writings, and
through his life-work for the benefit of mankind, he
built to himself a monument more enduring than brass ;
and to complete the memorial, it is the wish of all who
knew him to have inscribed on its tablet, that which
will testify to his broad, christian character, as well as.
to such qualities of heart as are best revealed in home
life to kindred and friends.
I was asked to write of Mr. Quinby because I knew
him ; none could know him but to love him. We, who
were accustomed to gather at his fireside, can never for-
get his warm hospitality. He was of a happy, even
temperament, always ready with a hearty welcome for
his friends, and a kind word for every one; ever willing
to spread the broad mantle of charity over the short-
comings of his fellows, yet equally prompt with quick
censure for a wrong that could be righted.
True to his Quaker education, he was an intense hater
of shams, especially of the human kind. He was honest,
a characteristic that is getting to be as rare as it is valu-
able. There is no principle in business better established
than that “Honesty is the best policy.” Mr. Quinby,
unlike many men, was honest from principle. His life-
work was to elevate bee-keeping to the dignity of a pur-
suit among men, and he accomplished his mission.
Bee-keeping as a specialty will date from his time, and
if Huber has earned the title of “ Prince of Apiarists,”
certainly Mr. Quinby is entitled to that of “Father of
Practical Bee-Culture.”
In apiarian history there are four names that will stand
out prominently beyond all others; Huber, the blind
apiarian, who, by his untiring perseverance, discovered
more of the interior workings of the bee-hive than any
other man that ever lived ; Dzierzon, the Quinby of
Germany, who confirmed the hitherto unbelieved state-
MEMORIAL OF M. QUINBY. KV
ments of Huber, and added that equally surprising one
of partheno-genesis ; Langstroth, our own countryman,
inventor of the movable comb-hive (the most im-
portant invention ever made in bee-culture), and author
of a work, that for scientific accuracy and beauty of
expression is unsurpassed; and last, but not least, our
own Quinby, who, adding largely to the knowledge of his
predecessors, combined the whole into a system of prac-
tical management, unequalled in simplicity and feasi-
bility ; and, finally, as a crowning act of a lifetime
spent in the service of others, gave to the world his
celebrated discovery that the liquid part of honey is,
under favorable conditions, entirely evaporated within
the body of the bee; a discovery second to none ever
made in the history of the insect.
He was not only author of our most practical work on
bee-keeping, but inventor of an almost perfect movable--
frame hive, and the originator of numerous other useful
devices. I predict that his invention of asmoker, combin-
ing the principle of an upright tube and bellows, will, in
the near future, be in the hands of every bee-keeper in
the land.
It has often been asked, ‘‘ Why did not Mr. Quinby
accumulate a fortune in keeping bees ?” :
To this question, I think this answer may be given:
It is true that Mr. Quinby never became wealthy in a
pecuniary point of view, but this was not because
he was unable to make-bee-keeping a lucrative pur-
suit. He did reap handsome profits in his busi-
ness, but was continually distributing his gains in the
search for more knowledge, and means for imparting it
to others. His views of a true fortune did not permit
him to enjoy the mere possession of money. With him,
knowledge was better fortune than gold ; and in another
light, he considered the ability to do something for the
benefit of mankind, a perpetual reward—treasures laid
XVI MEMORIAL OF M. QUINBY.
up in heaven. Whenever he obtained any new idea that
would benefit others as well as himself, it was forthwith
given to all who would receive.
His life was, in every sense, a life of usefulness, and not
wholly devoted to the interests of bee-culture, for he
took a living interest in anything that he thought would
benefit society; as an advocate and helper in the tem-
perance work he did no mean service.
He possessed true kindness of heart, and believed it to
be a religious duty to make all with whom he came in con-
tact better and happier, and he regarded that life a failure
that did not leave the world the better for having been
lived. The following little incident tells its own story :
On the day of his funeral, some bare-footed boys had fol-
lowed down the street to the front of the house, where
one of them turned up a sorrowful-looking face, and re-
marked to the officiating clergyman: ‘‘I am sorry Mr.
Quinby is dead ;” on being asked why, he replied, ‘‘ He
gave us apples, and pears, and sometimes grapes.” They
then asked if they might see him. :
Generally, sickness, as a warning for preparation, pre-
cedes dissolution, but in the case of our friend, at the
small hours of night, when reposing in quiet slumber,
the message came. His wife noticed an unusual breath-
ing—she immediately called the family, but before they
reached the bed, he had answered the summons. A noble
spirit had fled back to its Maker, a loving family circle
was broken, and the earthly life of the Pioneer Bee-keeper
closed.
Thus, at the age of sixty-five, ended the life-work of
our counsellor, friend, and public benefactor. How fit-
ting that a life so pure should have so peaceful an end-
ing. He passed from earth—
“ Like one who wraps the drapery of his couch
About him, and lics down to pleasant dreams.”
INTRODUCTION.
BEE-KEEPING: THE OLD AND THE NEW.
Fifty years ago, Mr. Quinby, then a lad of nineteen,
procured his first hive of bees, and began bee-keeping.
He was wholly unacquainted with their management, save
with the simplest directions for hiving swarms, and the
use of brimstone for securing the honey, when desired.
A practical, instructive treatise on bee-culture was not
to be found, and a periodical devoted to the subject was
as yet unthought of. The prevailing ignorance of the
simplest facts in their natural history, with the conse-
quent inability to rationally explain the causes of pros-
perity or failure, was the foundation of a wide-spread be-
hef that ‘‘ luck” was the presiding genius of the bee-hive.
Signs and superstitions of all kinds were current in the
lack of more intelligent teachings, and the good old man
who warned Mr. Quinby against his habits of study and
examination into everything in and about a bee-hive, but
reflected popular opinion, when he said : ‘‘ Your bees will
never do anything if you potter with them so much.”
In those days, the only hives were sections of hollow
logs, boxes of various dimensions, and curious cones built
of straw, which certainly attested to the ingenuity, if not
to the progress of theage. If honey was wanted, recourse
was had to the brimstone pit, and the unhappy bees were
doomed to yieid up not only their diligently gathered
treasures, but their lives also; a sacrifice to ignorance,
not without pareilel in the history of the human race.
By and by, gleams of better methods began to dawn,
and the most enterprising saw glimmers of a more ra-
tional system oi treatment, which should secure the pro-
ducts without the destruction of the producers.
17
18 BEE-KEEPING : THE OLD AND THE NEW.
Rough, uncouth, wooden boxes were constructed and
placed upon the hive, and the bees had access to them
through holes bored in the top. These were succeeded by
others more neatly made, with a hole in each end, covered
with glass that the progress within might be inspected.
Thus, the first steps in the right direction being taken,
it was easy to devise boxes with glass sides; and twenty-
five years ago, we find Mr. Quinby recommending boxes
six inches square, with glass on all four sides, with the
remark that, ‘the expense of making is a little more for
the same amount of honey, yet, when it is marketed, a few
customers will prefer this size.” Up to that date, the
chief advance in practice, seems to have been in the better
adaptation of the box-hive to the production of surplus.
Mr. Quinby’s desire to understand the minutest details
of everything which came under his observation, led him
to become thoroughly familiar with the habits of his little
favorites; and, unaided by the discoveries of foreign
writers with which he was then wholly unacquainted, he
demonstrated for himself many of the facts and princi-
ples which the progress of to-day easily enables us to verify.
At the end of a quarter of acentury, he had so satisfac-
torily established a system of bee-keeping that would in-
sure reasonable return for a stated investment, that he felt
warranted in publishing the first edition of this work en-
titled ‘‘ Mysteries of Bee-keeping Explained.” He hoped
thereby to benefit others by disseminating the knowledge
he had acquired, and to encourage an industry, evidently
designed by the Creator, when he caused uncounted flow-
ers to annually secrete tons of liquid honey, and created
a tiny insect with instinct to gather and preserve this
“* treasure-trove.”
Simultaneously with this publication, appeared the first
edition of ‘‘Langstroth on the Hive and Honey Bee.”
These two works were the first of any great value that
had been written in America.
BEE-KEEPING : TIE OLD AND THE NEW. 19
Their coincident appearance was always a great grati-
fication to Mr. Quinby, as it afforded no opportunity for
either to accuse the other of profiting by bis investiga-
tions ; and gave to both the honor of much original dis-
covery.*
These books were subsequently revised, Mr. Lang-
stroth’s in 1859, and Mr. Quinby’s in 1865. About this
time, the ‘‘ Bee-keeper’s Directory” by J. 8. Harbison,
appeared. Mr. Harbison was the pioneer bee-keeper of
California, and has done much to develop bee-culture in
that State.
Mr. Langstroth’s book marked an era in bee-culture ;
the invention of movable combs, therein elucidated, open-
ing a field which all enterprising apiarians feel to be almost
unlimited. A more accurate knowledge of the functions,
and habits of the bee, improved methods of obtaining sur-
plus, control of the interior economy of the hive, and
many other advantages were derived from this invention.
From this period, progress began to be more rapid,
and with each progressive step the facilities for improve-
ment were proportionally increased. The next great
discovery, that liquid honey might be removed from the
combs without injuring them, gave to bee-keeping a still
greater impetus.
The last ten years have given us Mr. Quinby’s discoy-
ery concerning the dry feces of the bee, and his invention
of the Bellows Smoker.
The latest feature that has marked our progress, is the
production of comb-foundation in a practical form.
Let us notice for a moment what these changes have
done for us in point of production alone.
*As an expression of Mr. Langetroth’s appreciation of Mr. Quinby’s work, I
give the following, from his writings; ‘‘I shall here quote from one of the
most common-sense works on practical bee-keeping, which has ever been written
in our language. * * * I refer to the ‘Mysteries,’ etc., by Mr. Quinby.
This treatise bears marks, on almost every page, of being the work of an accurate,
experienced, and thoroughly honest observer.”
20 BEE-KEEPING : THE OLD AND THE NEW.
I find in an article written by Mr. Quinby, in 1848,
for the ‘‘ Dollar Newspaper,” published in Philadelphia,
that he takes decided exception to a statement made by
another writer, to the effect that he had known 25 lbs. of
honey to be gathered by one colony in two weeks.
Mr. Quinby lived to see 57’/, Ibs. of extracted honey
taken from one colony in two days, and 586 Ibs. from a
stock during the season. He also records a gain of 225
lbs. of box-honey from one colony.
That these results are exceptional, is, of course, ad-
mitted, but that they have been reached, indicates the
possibilities to which we may yet attain.
A short time before his death, Mr. Quinby remarked
that the past five years had shown more progress than the
forty years preceding, and he predicted that the five years
to come would record even greater advancement. Who
shall say that in this he was not correct ?
Contemporaneously with these practical achievements,
Americans have established a bee-literature which has
been a potent agent in disseminating information, and
in greatly increasing the number of those engaged in the
pursuit. :
It would be interesting to be able to furnish correct
statistics of bee-culture in the United States. The lists
of names in the possession of those who deal largely in
bee-keeping supplies, prove that the bee-keepers in this
country must be counted by thousands, and the large
sales of popular works on the subject are evidence of a
constantly growing interest.
The oldest. ‘‘ Bee Journal” in this country was founded
in 1861, by Samuel Wagner.
Aside from his ability as a scholarly and practical
editor, Mr. Wagner has done apiarians great service
through his acquaintance with the best German bee-
masters, and his frequent translations from their writings,
thus forming a link between the scientists of that country
BEE-KEEPING : THE OLD AND THE NEW. a1
and the progressive minds of ourown. Mr. Quinby much
admired Mr, Wagner, and was wont to speak of his ser-
vices in this direction with marked appreciation. This
“‘ American Bee Journal” is now ably edited by Thos.
G. Newman & Son, of Chicago, Ils., and is probably the
best exponent of bee-culture in this country, if not in the
world, as the views of the most able apiarians may be
found in its columns.
“Gleanings in Bee-Culture,” published by A. I. Root,
Medina, Ohio, is a less pretentious monthly periodical,
well worthy of the patronage of every enterprising bee-
keeper. It began six years ago, as a modest sheet of
eight pages, but the perseverance and active ambition of
its editor has greatly enlarged and improved it, and it
now occupies a deservedly honorable position.
“‘ The Bee-keeper’s Magazine” is an outcome of ‘‘ The
Bee-keeper’s Journal and National Agriculturist,” for-
merly published by H. A. King & Co., and sustains its
position creditably among the bee-keepers of the country.
It is published by A. J. King & Co., New York City.
‘¢ The Bee-keeper’s Exchange.” This is a new period-
ical, designed to begin with 1879, but the initial number
has not yet come to hand. It is to be conducted by J.
H. Nellis, Canajoharie, N. Y., an enterprising young
man of considerable experience, who promises that it
shall be equal to the best.
“The Bee-keeper’s Guide” is published monthly at
Kendallville, Ind. Never having seen it, I cannot speak
of its merits.
Notwithstanding the acknowledged merits of our bee-
papers, there is ground still unoccupied, and I hope soon
to see a periodical that shall be above personal bias, and
most fully represent the broadest principles of scientific
apiculture.
Of modern books we have yet ‘‘Langstroth on the
Honey Bee,” a work which will never be out of date to
22 BEE-KEEPING: THE OLD AND THE NEW.
those who delight to read of the honey-bee as a christian
gentleman and scholar has delighted to write.
Aside from its practical vglue, which twenty years
have failed to greatly depreciate, its perusal will im-
press all with a more elevated sense of the wisdom which
gave this tiny insect a place in the system of creation.
A recent contribution is the ‘‘ Manual of the Apiary,”
by Prof. A. J. Cook, of the State Agricultural College,
Lansing, Mich. Prof. Cook is an entomologist, and has
opened a field in bee-culture, hitherto comparatively un-
explored, in his clear and simple elucidations of the nat-
ural history of the honey-bee. His book contains prac-
tical matter fully up to the times, and no intelligent bee-
keeper can afford to do without it.
The “ New Bee-keeper’s Text Book,” by A. J. King, is
a revision of the old edition, written by N. H. and H. A.
King. It is small and compact, containing many valua-
ble hints and directions.
Of the latest work before us, ‘The Blessed Bees,” by
John Allen, I hesitate to speak, and should say nothing,
did I not fear that its roseate coloring might lead the un-
wary into grave mistakes and serious failurcs. Were it
not that Prof. Cook vouches for the integrity of the
author, I should be inclined to regard it as a pleasant fic-
tion, which years’ of hard-earned experience have not
enabled our most successful bee-keepers to equal in reality.
I must not fail to recognize the aid we have reccived
from foreign writers in their books and periodicals. We
are indebted to them for many theories and practices,
which have proved invaluable. There are probably no
finer, highly-magnified illustrations of the honey-bee, than
are found in the ‘* Anatomy and Physiology of the Honey-
Bee,” by Michel Girdwoyn, published by J. Rothschild,
Paris, France.
Mr. Quinby’s characteristic benevolence caused him to
feel a genuine anxiety that bee-keeping should become a
THE HONEY-BEE. 23
generally followed pursuit, and those who were familiar
with his line of thought, will remember the enthusiasm
with which he always encouraged its adoption as a means
of increasing the revenues of the country, and at the
same time, saving a product that was annually going to
waste.
If this work shall, in any degree, carry out his wishes
in performing this office, I shall feel amply repaid for the
embarrassments under which I have labored, not only
in the consciousness of having fulfilled a duty to him to
whom I have been under so many obligations, but in the
gratification of having, ever so slightly, advanced a call-
ing that is not only honorable and lucrative, but elevat-
ing and ennobling.
CHAPTER I.
THE HONEY-BEE.
SIMPLE FACTS IN ITS NATURAL HISTORY.
In its natural state, a colony of bees consists of a
queen, several thousand workers and, during a part of
the year, a few hundred drones.
THE QUEEN.
The Queen is the mother of the entire colony. Her
only duty seems to be to lay eggs, of which she sometimes
deposits two thousand in twenty-four hours. In shape
(fig. 1), she resembles the worker more than the drone,
but is longer than either, and, like the worker, possesses
a sting, but seldom uses it, except in combat with a rival
queen. Her color upon the upper side is darker than
that of the others ; the two posterior legs and under-side
are of a bright copper color. In some queens a yellow
24 THE HONEY-BEE.
stripe nearly encircles the abdomen at the joints. All the
colors are bright and glossy, and she has but little of the
down or hair that is seen on the drones and workers.
Different queens vary much in color, some being much
darker than others. A still greater variation is presented
in the Italian queens, most of which are of a rich golden
color, while a few are even darker than the usual shade
of the natives.
For the first few days after leaving her cell, her size is
much less than after she has assumed her maternal duties.
The average age attained by the queen, is
about three years. The idea that she gov-
erns the colony, and directs all their opera-
tions, is probably totally erroneous. They
manifest a certain regard and affection for
her, however, and a half dozen may often
be seen gathered around her, as shown in
Fig. 1—QUEEN. fioure 2. Bees will, when destitute of a
queen, continue their labors to some extent, but her pres-
ence is necessary to insure their permanent prosperity.
WORKERS.
In size, the workers (fig. 3), are smaller than the
queen or drones. Upon them devolves all the labor of
the colony. They are provided with a sac or bag for
gathering honey, and basket-like cavities on their poste-
rior legs in which to pack the pollen of the flowers in
little pellets, for carrying it home to the hive. They range
the fields for honey and pollen, secrete wax, construct
combs, prepare food to nurse the young, bring water,
obtain propolis to seal up all crevices and flaws about the
hive, stand guard to keep out intruders, etc.
For the defence of their treasures and themselves,
they are provided with a sting and a virulent poison, but
will seldom use it when abroad, if unmolested ; they vol-
unteer an attack only when near the hive.
THE HONEY-BEE, 25
This sting, as it appears to the naked eye, is but a
tiny instrument of war, so small, indeed, that its wound
Fig. 2.—A GROUP OF BEES.
would pass unheeded by all the larger animals, were it
not for the poison introduced at the same instant. It
has been described as being ‘‘ composed
of three parts, a sheath and two darts.”
The greatly magnified sting and the. sac
containing the poison are shown in figure 4
on the next page. The darts which penc-
trate the flesh are close side by side in
their sheath or tube below; these darts
are also represented at one side and separated to show
2
Fig. 3—WoORKER.
26 THE HONEY-BEE.
the barbs or small points with which they are fur-
nished. The portions at each side are muscles, etc.,
which remain attached when the sting is drawn from the
bee, as happens when the darts are thrust into the flesh
and cannot be withdrawn on account of the barbs; the
bee is compelled to leave it behind, and loses its life.
The workers are all females with undeveloped organs
of generation, yet they possess
enough of the maternal instinct
to make them good nurses for
the brood of the real mother.
For several days after the
young worker emerges from its
cell, it is almost exclusively
engaged within the hive, there-
after it assists in collecting
stores.
The life of the worker varies
from one to eight months, ac-
cording to the time at which
it is hatched. In the busiest
season it lives but a few weeks,
but when hatched at the be-
ginning of cool weather, its life is extended through
several months.
Fig. 4.—THE sTING OF
WORKER. 4, DART.
DRONES.
The Drones (fig. 5), are the male3; their bodies are
large and clumsy, and without the symmetry of the queen
and worker. Their buzzing when on the wing, is loud,
and different from that of the workers. They have no
sting, and may be taken in the fingers with impunity.
They seem to be the least valuable class in the bee-com-
munity. They assist, sometimes, in keeping up the
necessary animal heat in the hive; but one only, out of
THE HONEY-BEE, 27
thousands, is actually serviceable in fecundating the
queen. The number reared depends upon
the strength of the colony, and the stores
on hand, or being collected.
Whenever a scarcity of honey occurs,
they are all destroyed. Thus their life is
very precarious, being sometimes limited
to a few hours, or extended to a few days,
“weeks, or months; but averaging much
less than that of the workers.
Fig. 5.—DRoNE
CONSTRUCTION OF COMB.
When the flowers expand their delicate petals, and
furnish their stores of nectar and pollen, the bees need
no stimulus from man to induce them to secure these
proffered treasures. Instinct prompts them to collect
these stores, and make suitable provision for the rearing
of their young.* To this end, comb must be construct-
ed; to produce the materials for this, a large amount of
honey is consumed, and by a wonderful process of nature,
a secretion of wax takes place, of which the delicate
combs are speedily built. (See Chap. XII). The cells
of which these combs are composed, are hexagonal in
form, and ordinarily of two sizes, adapted respectively to
the rearing of workers and of drones. Queen-cells are.
exceptional in shape and size, and are constructed as
needed, with a view to swarming.
GATHERING AND STORING POLLEN.
The pollen of flowers comprises the chief food of the
young bees. When collecting it, the bees alight upon the
* The idea is prevalent, that when becs are taken toa warm climate, where
they can gather honey during the whole year, they will lose this instinct to
accumulate stores, and only provide for their immediate wants. This is an
error, as the large quantities of surplus honey stored in such regions, abun.
dantly prove.
28 THE HONEY-BEE.
flowers, and pass rapidly over the anthers, the pollen-
bearing portion of the stamens, detaching a portion of
the dust, which lodges on most parts of them, and is
brushed together and packed in little pellets in the curi-
ous ‘‘ pollen-baskets ” on their posterior legs.
This process is much more readily observed, when
the bees are collecting rye-meal, which is sometimes given
them as a substitute for pollen. That they gather pollen
from but one kind of flower at once, is shown by the
uniformity of color in the pellets, pollen from different
species, varying greatly in color. It is usually packed in
worker-cells, and is generally in the vicinity of the brood-
combs, but small portions being often found in other
parts of the hive.
It is easy to observe the bees depositing their loads
of pollen. The legs holding the pellets are thrust into
the cell, and a motion as if rubbing them together is
made for half a minute, when they are withdrawn, and
the little loaves may be seen at the bottom. This bee
appears to take no further care about them, but another
will soon come along, enter the cell head first, and pack
the pollen close. The cell is filled about two-thirds of its
length in this way, and when sealed over, a little honey is
used. to fillit out. This is undoubtedly done to keep it
fresh. The collected pollen is known as ‘‘ bee-bread.”
GATHERING AND STORING HONEY.
The bee gathers honey from the flowers, but does not
make it, as is frequently supposed. It is taken into the
honey-sac or stomach, and on the return to the hive, is
expelled for storage in the cells.
The process of filling cells with honey is curious and
instructive. It may be observed by quietly removing the
side of a modern hive, when the bees are at work on the
outside comb, or by arranging a window ina hive, covered
with a door or slide.
THE HONEY-BEE, 29
The bee goes to the bottom of the cell, deposits a
particle of honey, and brushes it into the corners or
angles with its tongue, carefully excluding all the air.
As it is filled, that nearest the sides of the cells is. kept
in advance of the center. This is just as a philosopher
would say it should be done. If the cell were filled at
once, without attaching the honey to the sides, the external
air would not keep it in place, as it now does effectually,
when the cell is of ordinary length. When the cell is
about one-fourth of an inch deep, bees often commence
filling it, and as it is lengthened, they continue to add
honey, keeping it within an eighth of an inch of the ends.
It is never quite full, until nearly sealed over, and often
not then. In worker cells the sealing seldom touches
the honey.* But in drone cells the case is different ; in
these, honey at the end touches the sealing about half way
up. It is kept in the same concave shape while being filled,
but being in a larger cell, the atmospheric pressure is less
effectual in keeping it in its place; consequently, when
they commence sealing these cells, they begin on the
lower side, and finish at the top.
PROPOLIS AND ITS USE.
Propolis is doubtless the gum or resinous coating
which protects the buds of many kinds of trees.
It may be found in many species of Populus, particu-
larly the Balsam Poplar, (Populus balsamifera), and the
variety (candicans), known as the Balm of Gilead. I
have seen the bees collecting it, and have frequently seen
them enter the hive with what appeared to be the pure
article on their legs, resembling pollen, except that the
surface is smooth and glossy. Itis of amuch lighter color
when new, than it is after it gets a little age. I have
geen bees when they appeared unable to dislodge the pro-
* This is true only of the native bees.
30 THE HONEY-BEE.
polis themselves, and were continually running around
among those engaged in using it in the hive.
When one required a little, it seized the pellet with
its forceps, and detached a portion. The whole lump
will not cleave off at once, but firmly adheres to the leg,
and from its tenacity, a string an inch long, will some-
times be formed in separating. This substance is used
to solder up all the cracks, flaws, and irregularities about
the hive. TEASEL.
large and of fine quality. Iam indebted to Mr. G. M. Doo-
little, of Borodino, N. Y., and Mr. N. N. Betsinger, of Mar-
cellus, N. Y., for facts in regard to the value of Teasel as
a source ofhoney. Itis cultivated largely in their vicinity,
and their bees profit by it to a considerable extent.
Since becoming familiar with its reputation, I have
watched the bloom of the Wild Teasel, (Dipsacus sylves-
tris, fig. 14), but as I never could find the bees upon it, and
not being informed as to the different species, I could not
understand why so much value should be placed upon it
as a honey-yielding blossom. Mr. Doolittle informs me
that the Wild Teasel, which has a purple blossom, is
seldom, if ever, visited by the bees, but the cultivated
58 SOURCES OF HONEY.
Teasel, with a white blossom, is that from which such
bounteous yields are obtained. I quote from an article
by Mr. D., in ‘‘ Gleanings,” January, 1878: ‘The plant
is biennial asa rule, although a part of the plants (the
smaller ones), may not produce heads until the third
year. * * * * * The ‘kings,’ as they are com-
monly called, are heads at the top of the stalks, and com-
mence to blossom about
~ July 10th, continuing
~ in bloom about a week
or ten days, opening first
in the center of the
head, blossoming toward
the tip and base, and
ending off at the base.
As soon as the blossoms
fall off, the heads are
cut, and cured for the
purpose of raising the
%" naponcloth. The ‘mid-
\ ° dlings,? as they are
termed, commence - to
blossom when the
‘kings’ are about half
through, and the ‘but-
tons’ come last, making
from 20 to 25 days of bloom from the commencing of the
‘kings’ to the end of the ‘ buttons.’ Bees work on them
at all hours of the day, and no matter how well Bass-
wood may yield honey, you will find them at work on the
Teasel at all times. I have never known the Teasel to
fail to secrete honey except in 1876. The honey is very
thin, and much evaporation is required to bring it to the
consistency of Basswood honey when first gathered.”
Sumach (Rhus glabra, fig. 15), is rich in its quality
and yield of honey. The shrubs coming into bloom in
) Fig. 15.—smooTH suMAcE.
SOURCES OF HONEY. 59
succession, the supply is protracted beyond the duration
of one set of flowers. Mustard (Sinapis nigra), is also a
great favorite. Its cultivation is remunerative for its
seed alone, and when we add its value to the bees, there
seems to be a sufficient inducement to raise it.
I have now mentioned most of the honey-producing
plants which bloom before the middle of July. In sec-
tions where Buckwheat is not raised, these furnish the
principal supply.
Other flowers continue to bloom until cold weather.
Where White Clover is abundant, and the fields are used
for pasture, it will continue to throw out fresh flowers,
sometimes, throughout the entire summer, yet the kees
consume about all they collect, in rearing their brood,
etc. Thus, it appears, that in some sections, the bees
have only about six or eight weeks in which to provide
for winter.
LATER HONEY PLANTS.
I will now notice the flowers that appear after the mid-
dle of July. The Button-bush (Cephalanthus occiden-
talis) is much frequented for honey; also the Melons,
Cucumbers, Squashes, and Pumpkins. The latter are
visited only in the morning, and honey is the only thing
obtained. Notwithstanding the bee is covered with pol-
len, it is not kneaded into pellets on its legs. It has
been stated that bees get pollen early in the morning,
instead of honey. It is not best to always take our word
about such matters, but examine for yourselves. Take a
look some warm morning, when the Pumpkins are in
bloom, and see whether it is honey or pollen of which
they are in quest.
Many people seem to think that the vicinity of large
flower gardens is of great advantage to their bees, but
these are usually of very little value. Mignonette seems
to possess some importance when largely cultivated.
60 SOURCES OF HONEY.
The Melilot or Sweet-scented Clover, both yellow and
white, deserves a place in our list. It is found in bloom by
midsummer, and remains until our latest flowers. Where
it grows in profusion, as along many of our small streams,
the supply it furnishes is by no means inconsiderable.
In color the honey is rather dark, but the flavor is much
superior to that of Buckwheat honey.
BUCKWHEAT.
This honey is considered by many to be of inferior
quality. Its color, when separated from the comb, re-
sembles molasses of medium shade. The taste is more
pungent than that of clover honey; it is particularly
prized on that account by some, and disliked by others
for the same reason.
In several counties in this State, so little of this
grain is raised, that the honey can not be found in the
hive or boxes. But in many places it is the main de-
pendence, the bees seldom getting more than a winter
supply from the early flowers.
In some sections full sets of boxes are often filled from
Buckwneat after a fine yield of white honey. This adds
materially to the pecuniary returns from apiaries in such
localities. The date of sowing Buckwheat varies with
different farmers. I have passed through districts where
some fields were out of blossom, while the flowers in others
were not yet open, and still others at all intermediate
stages. This protracts the yield from this source for
several weeks. Although the honey commands a less
price in market than lighter grades, it is a source of
much profit.
In some regions the Golden Rods, (several species of
Solidago, fig. 16), afford valuable forage, and assist
largely in replenishing the combs for winter consumption.
I have frequently observed that bees were working vigor-
SOURCES OF HONEY. 61
ously in early autumn, when it was almost impossible to
determine whence they were obtaining their supplies.
This suggests the
idea that there are
many minor sources
not noticeable in
abundance, which
the keen scent of
the bees is quick
to discover.
In California, the
chief reliance seems
to be the “ White
Sage” (Lurotia lan-
ata), of which there
are immense quan-
tities. The Cotton
of the Southern
States is mentioned
as valuable. There
are many plants pe-
culiar to different
localities, upon
which more or less
dependence can be
placed. And, even
in those less favor-
ed districts where
no first-class sources
are found, there will always be a moderate gain from the
forage of field and forest, which will justify any careful
person in keeping a moderate number of colonies, as ex-
perience may dictate.
Fig. 16.—GOLDEN ROD.
HONEY-DEW.
Honey-dew is found in some localities, but personal ex-
y
62 SOURCES OF HONEY.
perience will not permit me to speak positively concern-
ing it. Yet, during some of our large harvests of honey,
I could easily have believed that the honey was furnished
from some hidden source, more abundantly than was pos-
sible from the blossoms alone. From information gleaned
from yarious sources, I am inclined to think that leaves
may, at times, secrete honey, but it has never been my
good fortune to discover it, and Mr. Quinby was alike
unfortunate, during two-score years of close observation.
It is evidently peculiar to certain localities only. Prof.
Cook relates an interesting and convincing case of it,
which he observed in California.
DO BEES INJURE GRAIN AND FRUIT?
Many people contend that bees are an injury to Buck-
wheat, by taking away the substance that would be form-
ed into grain. What are the facts? The flowers open,
and honey is secreted. If the bee does not gather it, it is
wasted. Now, what is the difference to the plant, whether
the honey is lost in this way, or is collected by the bees ?
If there is any difference, the advantage appears to
be in favor of collection by the bees, for the reason that
it thus answers an important end in the economy of na-
ture, consistent with her provisions in ten thousand dif-
ferent ways in adapting means to ends.
Abundant authority may be cited to show that, in-
stead of being a hindrance to the perfect development of
grain or fruit, bees are indispensable, in the aid they give
in fertilization. Those who have only the most super-
ficial knowledge of plants, are aware that with many,
some of the flowers possess only stamens, and others
only pistils, and that the pollen from the staminate blos-
soms is necessary to fertilize the pistillate. This is done
in some cases by the wind, which wafts the pollen from
the staminate to the pistillate flowers, but in the ma-
SOURCES OF HONEY. 63
jority of such cases, the aid of insects is necessary. In
the search for honey, the bees visit numerous flowers of
the same species only, in one journey (a, fact which is
mentioned by Aristotle), and its body being covered by
the pollen, it is next to impossible for it not to leave some
of it in the proper place.
INJURY TO RIPE FRUIT,
There is a prevalent opinion that bees do much injury
to ripe fruit, such as grapes, peaches, plums, etc. It is
often affirmed that crops of these fruits, especially grapes,
are measurably destroyed by the bees puncturing the skin,
and sucking the juices.
A gentleman, whose letter lies before me, states that he
does not secure one-twentieth of his grape crop, for this
reason.
Mr. Quinby, as well as myself, gave this matter much
personal attention, from the fact that we were largely in-
terested in grape culture, as well as bees, having several
hundred vines under cnltivation. Our experience fully
accorded with the testimony of Mr. Langstroth, and
other intelligent observers, to the effect that a honey-bee.
never injures sound fruit. In reply to a gentleman who.
complained of the bees, Mr. L. gave the following, as
among the reasons why the bees could not inflict any ex-
tensive injury upon his grapes :
“That as the supplies of honey. from the blossoms had
entirelyfailed * * * if the bees had been able to help
themselves to his cound grapes they would have entirely
devoured the fruit of hisvines. * * * That the jaws
of the bee being adapted chiefly to the manipulation of,
wax, were too feeble to enable it readily to puncture the
skin, even of his most delicate grapes. Jn reply to these
arguments, being invited to go to his vines and see the
depredators in the very act, the result justified my antici-
64 SOURCES OF HONEY.
pations. Though many bees were seen banqueting on
grapes, not one was seen doing any mischief to sound
fruit. Grapes which were bruised, or the moist stems,
from which grapes had recently been plucked, were cov-
ered with bees, while other bees were observed to alight
upon bunches, which when found, by careful inspection
to be sound, they left with evident disappointment.
“« Wasps and hornets, which secrete no wax, being fur-
nished with strong saw-like jaws for cutting the woody
fibre with which they build their combs, can easily pene-
trate the skin of the toughest fruits. While the bees,
therefore, appeared to be comparatively innocent, multi-
tudes of these depredators were seen helping themselves
to the best of the grapes. * * * After the mischief
has been begun by other insects, or wherever a crack or a
spot of decay is seen, the honey-bee hastens to help it-
self. * * * In this way they undoubtedly do some
mischief, but before war is declared against them, let
every fruit grower inquire, if, on the whole, they are not
more useful than injurious.”
The honey crop of 1869 being a total failure with us,
we had ample opportunity to observe if the bees were in-
clined to commit any unusual depredations upon the pro-
ducts of our vines, and I must exonerate them from any
malicious intent or deed.
It is no uncommon occurrence for bees to frequent
cider mills in great numbers, attracted by the juice of
the crushed apples. It does not always appear to be at-
tendant upon a scarcity of honey, for they often do not
care anything about it, even when otherwise idle. The
Hon. Harris Lewis, a prominent agriculturist of this
county, who makes vinegar largely, has been known to
stop his cider mill to avoid the great destruction of bees
incident to the operation of crushing the apples. His
sense of justice and consideration for the interests of
others, at the sacrifice of his own convenience, is char-
SOURCES OF HONEY. 65
acteristic of a man who deservedly occupies a high position
among the farmers of our country.
HOW FAR WILL BEES GO FOR HONEY?
The precise distance that bees will fly in search of for-
age, Iam unable to state. Some consider three miles to
be the extreme limit, while others place it as high as
twelve miles. The most satisfactory results may be ex-
pected, if abundant stores can be found within two miles.
It is evident that they will work more freely upon blos-
soms at some little distance, than when these are very near
the apiary. If I were to sow anything with a view to a
supply of honey, I should prefer that it should not be in
the immediate vicinity of the hives.
Their flights are evidently modified by local conditions,
During the large yield from Basswood in 1874, already al-
luded to, as the blossoms failed in the valley, the bees
continued bringing in the same quality of honey, fol-
lowing the Basswood day by day, as it opened on the hills,
until the first week in August, when they still came in
heavily loaded, but very tired from a long flight.
I drove to the hights, six miles distant, and found that
Basswood was there just coming into bloom. I immedi-
ately moved 48 swarms to this location, and in the follow-
ing week, these 48 colonies gave me one ton of surplus
honey, while the 71 swarms left at home, did not secure
one half that amount, yet they continued working upon
the same ground during the entire period.
This is a fine illustration of the advantage of obtain-
ing forage within a reasonably short distance. I have
never had direct proof to the effect, yet there is ground
for the belief that, if honey could not be found nearer,
bees would fly the distance named, without being gradu-
ally led along by newly opening blossoms as in the casé
mentioned.
66 THE APIARY.
BEST SEASON FOR HONEY.
The inquiry is often made, ‘“‘ Which is best for bees,
a wet or dry season?” I have studied this point
very closely, and have found that a medium between the
two extremes produces the most honey. When farmers
begin to express fears of a drouth, then is the time, if
in the season of flowers, that most honey is usually ob-
tained, but if dry weather is much protracted, the quan-
tity is greatly diminished. Of the two extremes, a very
wet season is much the worst.
This latter is evident from the fact that much rain in-
jures the honey, by diluting it, as well as preventing the
bees from gathering as much ; whereas, when the weather
is moderately dry, the bees are at liberty to work freely,
and the honey is evaporated, instead of diluted, improv-
ing the quality, and rendering it much more desirable for
immediate sealing up. There is no question but the value
of honey is much affected by these circumstances, unless
properly cured. The weight of extracted honey will vary
to the extent of over 1 Ib. to the gallon, according to
the variation in the season.
CHAPTER IV.
THE APIARY.
THE PREPARATION NEEDED.
If one proposes to make bee-keeping his life-pursuit,
he will need very different preliminary instruction from
one who, as nearly every farmer may well do, proposes to
follow it as an adjunct to other occupation, or the ama-
teur, who would keep a few hives for his instruction and
amusement. To cne, especially a young man, who feels a
THE APIARY. 67
preference for, and a personal adaptation to, bec-keeping
as an occupation, te be followed to the exclusion of all
others, we would say that he cannot be too thoroughly
prepared, not only by reading, but by instruction in the
sciences related to the pursuit, and by practical training.
In other avocations it is considered necessary to serve
an apprenticeship in order to fit one to pursue them prof-
itably, and in no calling are preliminary study and prac-
tice more important than in bee-keeping as a profession.
Fortunately for those who would qualify themselves for
the pursuit, the State Agricultural College, Lansing,
Mich., offers special advantages. The department of
Entomology and the Apiary in that Institution is in
charge of Prof. A. J. Cook, a scientific Entomologist
and thorough Apiarian. But the great number, who
must make bee-keeping a secondary matter, are not in
need of this thorough preparation, and to these it is hoped
that this work will prove a sufficient guide. While it
aims to give the most approved apiarian practice, it is in-
tended to be so elementary in its teachings as to meet the
wants of. the novice, as well as those who have already
some experience in bee-keeping, and would learn its most
profitable methods.
LOCATION.
In selecting a site for an apiary, there are many con-
siderations to be borne in mind, especially if bee-keeping
is to be the sole business. The question of very greatest
import is that of resources. Study the subject of the
best honey-yielding plants and trees, and be sure that you
locate within reach of some tolerably reliable source.
Another point of much interest is the general contour of
the country. To illustrate. I reside in a valley where
' Basswood begins to blossom about the 15th of July. If
the surrounding country were level, this bloom would last
but 12 or 15 days, but being at the foot of a hill, where
63 THE APIARY.
in a distance of six miles there is a rise of 600 feet, we
find that bees continue working upon it for twice that
length of time.
The same is true of the Apple, the Raspberry, and, in
fact, all other blossoms that abound ; I find it profitable
to locate an apiary about three miles up this hill, where
the bees reach up and down, and thus accomplish even
better results than when working from the valley. In
addition to this, I have observed that the same class of
blossoms yield better on elevated ground, than in lower
situations. This is a point in favor of choosing a site in
elevated regions. This opinion is corroborated by the ex-
perience of Mr. P. H. Elwood, Starkville, N. Y., and that
of others.
IMMEDIATE SURROUNDINGS.
A location near ponds, or large bodies of water in-
volves some loss. Strong winds fatigue the bees when on
the wing, often causing them to alight in the water,
whence it is impossible for them to mse again until wafted
ashore, and then, unless in very warm weather, they are
often so chilled as to be past recovery.
If possible, the hives should be sheltered from cold,
heavy winds. If no natural protection is afforded, a
close, high board fence should be put up for the purpose.
The saving of bees will pay the expense. During the
spring months, the stocks contain fewer bees than at any
other season. It is then that a large family is important
to keep the brood warm. One bee is of more value then
than a dozen in midsummer. When the hive stands in a
blealx place, the bees returning with heavy loads in a high
wind, are frequently unable to strike the hive, they are
blown to the ground, become chilled and die. When
protectsd from winds, the hives may front as may be de-
sired, an east or south exposure is generally preferred.
In building the board fence mentioned, the nails should
THE APIARY. 69
not be driven home firmly, but should be so left that they
may be easily drawn with a claw-hammer, that more or
less of the boards may be removed during the hottest
weather, to permit a freer circulation of air.
A consideration worthy of mention, is, that the apiary
be conveniently near the house or workshop, where the
bee-keeper’s eye may be frequently upon it. Although
swarming may be largely controlled, swarms may occa-
sionally issue, thus making some attention necessary, and
¥ig. 17.—HIVES UPON ROOFS AT ILION, N. Y.
it is otherwise important that such attention be quickly
given. The apiary should be well fenced against the in-
trusion of farm stock, and should be as secluded as pos-
sible from all farming operations, as well as not too near
the highway.
BEE-KEEPING IN CITIES AND VILLAGES,
A limited number of bees can no doubt be kept in our
large cities, if, as is generally the case, forage can be’
found within a reasonable distance.
If no plot of ground is available, the hives can be set
in an upper room, or attic, before an open window. The
0 THE APIARY.
observatory hive described in another chapter, would be
desirable in such a situation, It is quite common to set
the hives upon the roof of a building; Mr. Muth, of
Cincinnati, keeps quite a number of colonies upon the
roof of his store, with excellent success. The illustra-
tion (fig. 17), shows several colonies arranged upon the
roof of a piazza and house, in the village of Ilion, N. Y.
ARRANGEMENT OF THE HIVES.
Where a large number of hives is to be kept in one
yard, it is desirable to have them in as compact form as
practicable, as the movements of the bees can thus be
more easily observed, and the buildings or rooms occupi-
ed in the necessary operations, will be more accessible
from all parts of the apiary. When convenient, I prefer
arranging the hives in the form of a square. Where there
are but few colonies, of course their disposition is imma,
terial. If a small building is erected, as it should be,
for immediate convenience in practical operations, it
should be placed at the center of the apiary, or in the
most accessible locality.
Fig. 18 shows the arrangement of my own apiary, with
a tight fence in the rear, and this building in the center.
The house should be about 8x10 feet, and made per-
fectly bee-tight. In periods of scarcity, bees are attract-
ed even by the smallest opening, and will be seen vigor-
ously at work, endeavoring to gain admission. It is pre-
ferable to cover the bottom of the house with hydraulic
cement, instead of ordinary flooring. The door should
close with a weight or spring, so that it may never be
left open, unless intentionally. Wmmdows should be
arranged on opposite sides, to give ample circulation of
air, when desired, and the sash made movable or hung
with hinges. Lights of glass reaching the entire length
of the sash, are best, as in transferring, or like opera-
THE APIARY. "1
tions, the bees may be more readily brushed down, than
when small panes are used.
For warm weather, close windows will not be comforta-
ble. Wire-cloth screens may be arranged and hung with
hinges on the outside. These should be made of stuff at
least one inch thick, with the wire-cloth nailed upon both
sides. When bees are being handled inside, and honey is
scarce, those on the outside will be seen crowding upon
Fig. 18,—vizw OF THE AUTHOR’S APIARY.
the wire-cloth ; if but one thickness of wire-cloth is used,
the bees inside will feed those upon the outside with the
honey to which they have access within. Great confusion
sometimes arises in this way. The thick frame, and
double wire-cloth fully obviates this difficulty. Tight
board shutters will be needed to close the windows more
thoroughly, when desired.
Convenience should not only be kept in view, but order
and neatness as well. Nothing adds more to the attrac-
tiveness of an apiary, than a symmetrical disposition of
the hives. They should stand in rows in such a manner
92 THE APIARY.
that the hives of each alternate row will face the spaces
of the row in front of it. (See fig. 18).
The different colored hives or roofs, should be inter-
spersed, so that no two of the same color come next each
other. This is particularly important if the hives are
necessarily placed rather close together.
DISTANCE BETWEEN HIVES.
The present improved system of management requires
that hives should not stand too near each other. There
should be at least 6 feet between them, and 10 feet would
be a preferable distance. If hives are set this distance
apart, queens are less liable to be lost, when returning to
the hive after meeting the drones.
The advantage of plenty of room between the hives,
is also evident when handling a swarm ; its neighbors will
not be so likely to be interrupted, and when using the
extractor, it is quite apparent that ample room is essential.
HIVES SHOULD SET LEVEL.
In adjusting the pieces of scantling to be used for
stands (as described in Chap. VI.), it is essential that
they be perfectly level, at least from side to side. The
rear end may be slightly higher than the front, if the
combs run from front torear, and the combs in the boxes
run in the same direction.* A quantity of gravel. may
* In this connection, I recall an instance of the occupation of combs in an
unnatural position, which occurred as follows: I visited an apiary several miles
from home, for the purpose of fecding, and took with me a number of combs
containing honey. It being too cold to open the hives, I simply removed the
packing at the top, and laid the combs flat upon the top of the brood nests,
placing panels over them, and replacing the packing. Upon visiting the apiary
two weeks later, after the bees had begun gathering honey from apple blossoms,
Ifound that several of these combs had been occupied by the queen, there being
sealed brood upon both the upper and under sides; honey was also stored on
both sides. The warm position that this comb occupied, was doubtless the
cause of the occurrence.
THE APIARY. 73
be spread where the hive is to stand, and an accurate
level obtained by means of a spirit-level.
Instead of gravel, sawdust has frequently been recom-
mended, and used with satisfaction by some. Others ob-
ject to it from its liability to take fire. Where the bel-
lows-smoker is used, there is not much force in this objec-
tion. If clean gravel can be secured, the whole yard may
be covered to advantage, leaving it highest where the
hives are to stand. If the gravel is thick enough, and of
the right kind, it will pack and prevent grass from grow-
ing. If the ground is kept in grass, that should be kept
cut short.
DISADVANTAGE OF HIGH STANDS.
When bees come in heavily loaded, towards evening,
or on a chilly day, or are driven in by a sudden shower,
even if there is no wind, they are very apt to miss the
hive, and be unable to gain the entrance, if it is placed at
a distance from the ground. On the other hand, if the
hive is near the earth, and an alighting board is arranged
to reach from the ground to the entrance, they can always
creep, long after they are unable to fly, and can thus usu-
ally regain the hive, when they can not use their wings.
If such facilities are afforded, a large number of bees may
be saved.
Belonging to different hives, the loss is often imper-
ceptible, yet the aggregate saving from a large apiary
would be of much importance. If any evidence is need-
ed of the truth of this assertion, an examination of the
ground about the hives, at night, particularly when a
little chilly, will reveal a much greater loss than is gen-
erally imagined.
MARKING THE LOCATION.
When bees are first set out in spring, or when moved
to a new home, they invariably mark their locatjon. As
4
74. THE APIARY.
they leave the hive, they pause a moment, then rise on
the wing, and face it, describing a small circle at first,
but increasing as they recede, until an area of several
-yards has been viewed and marked. After a few excur-
sions, when surrounding objects have become familiar,
this precaution is not taken, but they leave in a direct
line for their destination, returning by their way-marks
without difficulty.
MOVING BEES SHORT DISTANCES.
Very excellent authorities have claimed that bees could
not be moved less than a mile and a half or two miles,
without injury, as they would return to their former local-
ities. Mr. Quinby says :
«‘There are a great many people who suppose the bee
knows its hive by a kind of instinct, or is attracted to-
wards it, like the steel to the magnet. At least they act
as if they thought so, as they often move their bees a
few feet or rods, after the location is thus marked, and
what is the consequence ?—The stocks are materially in-
jured, and sometimes entirely ruined by loss of bees. Let
us notice the cause. As I have stated, the bees have
marked the location. They leave the hive without any
precaution, as surrounding objects are familiar. They
return to their old stand and find no home. If there is
more than one stock, and their own has been removed
from four to twenty feet, some of the bees may find a
hive, but are just as liable to enter the wrong one as the
right. Probably they would not go over twenty feet, and
very likely not that, unless the new situation was very
conspicuous. If a person had but one stock, the loss
would probably be less, as every bee finding a hive, would
be sure to be right, and none would be killed, as is gener-
ally the case, when a few enter a strange hive. Some-
times‘a stock will allow strange bees to unite with them,
bat it is seldom, unless a large number enters.”
THE APIARY. 15
These facts are of value to the beginner, and should be
carefully observed, until experience dictates what modifi-
cations are allowable. Modern experiments prove that
by observing the necessary conditions, bees may be moved
short distances without detriment.
I have, in the evening, prepared hives for removal, and
taken them, before light the next morning, three miles
away, and was positive that not a bee had escaped from
the hives. Before noon, quite a number of bees could be
seen flying around the stands from which the hives had
been removed. I naturally inferred, that these bees had
found their way back from the new location. I am now
fully convinced that I was in error. These, I think,
were bees that had left the hive, so late the night pre-
vious, that they were overtaken by darkness, and were
unable to reach their home. After becoming sufficiently
warm the next morning, they had returned to find them-
selves homeless.
C. C. Van Deusen, of Sprout Brook, N. Y., purchased
several swarms of a neighbor about half a mile distant,
and moved them to his own yard, after their lines were
thoroughly established at home. Upon releasing them,
he smoked them thoroughly, so that all filled themselves
completely with honey, and the result was, that the new
location was marked, and no bees returned to the former
stands.
In 1869 we purchased twenty swarms of bees in box
hives and moved them twomiles. We afterwards desired
to move them half a mile, and did so, but before releasing
them, transferred them to movable frames. This opera-
tion so thoroughly confused and demoralized them, that
this new location was marked, and there was no resulting
loss. I have never found it necessary to move bees
shorter distances, yet I see no reason why, with the requi-
‘site .care.and skill in manipulation, they may not be
‘moved to as little distance as may be desired, especially,
16 THE APIARY.
if so thoroughly disturbed as in the process of trans-
ferring. If it becomes necessary to change the location
of hives in the same yard, it may be done by moving the
hive one or two feet at a time (the distance depending on
the contiguity of the adjacent hives), and allowing it to
stand a day or two, each time, before moving again. But
if the situation of colonies is changed at random, with-
out some intelligent care, much Icss will inevitably ensue.
SHADE.
To determine the precise amount of shade which will"
meet the needs of the entire season, requires some dis-
crimination. Evergreen Trees, Grape Vines, and differ-
ent varieties of fruit trees, have each their advocates. I
have tested the matter very largely, and while I appre-
ciate the benefit of shelter from the sun in exceedingly
sultry weather, especially in the middle of the day, I can-
not recommend any permanent shade to any great extent.
It is very essential, during the early part of the season,
that each hive receive the direct rays of the sun during
the entire day. If hives can be so arranged among de-
ciduous trees that they may be thus benefited morning
and evening, the shade at other hours, during extreme
heat, would be desirable.
As a rule, if the roof recommended be so adjusted that
the air can circulate between it and the hive, it will
afford ample protection. It is my custom, during spring
months, to remove these roofs each fair day, and replace
them before the dew falls at evening.
Capt. Hetherington, of Cherry Valley, N. Y., appre-
hending this necessity of warmth, covers the top of the
cap with sheet iron, and paints it black. This not only
protects the hive, obviating the need of a roof until
warmer weather, but being dark, absorbs the rays of the
sun, which assists materially in warming the interior of
THE APIARY. ve
the hive, and stimulates early breeding at a season when
it is of most importance.
It is unquestionable that, in the very hottest weather,
the shade of trees would be very grateful and desirable,
but, considering the average of cool weather through the
season, I conceive it to be detrimental rather than other-
wise. In southern latitudes, shade may be more essential.
BEE HOUSES.
Bee houses, as used in times past, have long been con-
demned as useless and undesirable. When box hives
were alone used, and the bees were not manipulated as at
the present day, such houses more nearly met the simpler
demands of those times ; yet even then, the rays of the
sun were nearly excluded, with many accompanying dis-
advantages.
THE HOUSE APIARY.
More recently what is known as the House Apiary (fig.
19), has been devised for movable comb-hives. Mr. Coe,
of New Jersey, has designed a form cf it, which he claims
to possess much merit. One of these was erected at the
Centennial Exhibition, and was an object of much inter-
est to apiarian visitors. It may be of any desired size
and in shape, square, oblong, hexagonal, or octagonal, as
may be preferred. A house 9X15 feet will hold 44 hives,
and one 11x34 will contain 100 hives.
It is tightly enclosed on all sides, the hives being
arranged on shelves next the walls inside, the bees enter-
ing through small openings. It is true that bees may
be handled inside of these houses, in rainy weather, or
when they would be liable to rob ont of doors. One of
the benefits claimed is, that swarming may be more easily
controlled. 4
So far as I have investigated the details of construction,
I find that the shelves holding the hives are attached to
78 THE APIARY.
the sides of the building, thus subjecting the bees to jars
caused by the disturbance of any part of it, hence I should
not anticipate so good a degree of success as if the hives
were disconnected from the building, and each, on its
own separate stand, resting firmly on the ground.
The beneficial effects of the heat received by the
hives when exposed to the direct rays of the sun, when.
in the open air, must be supplied artificially within.
Fig. 19.—woUsE aPIARY OF J, H, NELLIS, CANAJOHARIE, N.Y...
For the information of those who desire to use such arti-
ficial heat, I recall a similar experiment. In 1872, while
with Mr. Quinby, we demonstrated the fact that we
might raise the temperature in and about all parts of the
hives, containing strong swarms, yet the bees would not
venture to fly, if on reaching the entrance, they found it
to be cold without.
The house apiary has been somewhat extensively tested,
but evidently it has not as yet reached that point where
it may be pronounced a thorough success. I have not
THE APIARY. 79.
had sufficient experience to warrant the assumption that
it may not be very satisfactorily modified and improved,
but like many other methods, its merits and defici-
encies can only be developed by time and experiment. I
favor further trial and investigation.
WHEN TO PURCHASE BEES.
Assuming the location to be determined, and all pre-
liminary arrangements settled, the next important step is,
to secure the bees with which to stock the apiary.
After an extended experience in buying bees 4t differ-
ent seasons of the year, I shall advise beginners to pur-
chase them only in spring. Those who feel competent to
transfer from box-hives to movable combs, should procure
them before the first yield of honey in their own location.
The inexperienced will, however, find their initiation into
bee-culture less perplexing, if able to secure the bees
in the kind of movable-comb hive they intend to use.
A marked advantage may be realized by buying bees in
a section where the season opens earlier than in that to
which they are to be removed. For instance, fruit blos-
soms are valuable in stimulating early brood-rearing. Buy
your bees in a quarter where Apple- -trees are going out
of bloom just as they are opening in your own, and move
them as nearly at this time as possible. A little research.
on this point will prove advantageous to experienced bee-
keepers. A little more care must be exercised in moving
bees at such times, as the combs are heavier with brood
and honey.
WHERE TO BUY.
This consideration depends upon the variableness of
profitable seasons, and also upon the fact that bees will
prosper in one locality, and in another at a greater or
less distance, do very poorly during the same period,
80 THE APIARY.
Other facts in this connection are, that ordinarily, a good
season will follow a poor one, and that the best swarms
may generally be found in spring, where the previous
season was prosperous. ‘The inference is easily drawn,
that if we purchase good colonies in such a section, and
take them where the approaching season promises well,
two essentials will be secured—bees in fine condition and
the promise of a good yield.
TRANSPORTATION BENEFICIAL.
It is generally supposed that it is better to secure bees
in the immediate vicinity, which is certainly true as re-
gards labor and expense ; but experience assures me that
when they are properly transported a long distance, there
are advantages which offset, partially at least, the extra
trouble and cost. With us, such colonies invariably work
better than stocks of equal strength of our own winter-
ing, standing in the same apiary. I account for this, in
part, from the fact that being supplied with water dur-
ing confinement and shipment, the bees uncap and dilute
their stores of honey, which stimulates the queen to de-
posit eggs more freely.
Also, the agitation incident to moving them some dis-
tance dislodges the moth-worms and the bees may be seen
endeavoring to throw them, as well as portions of the
worm galleries, from the hive. They are also eyvi-
dently freed from the more minute pests of the hive in
the same manner. Repeated tests convince me of the
truth of this assumption. I think this view will yet be
developed into practice in the ordinary handling of bees,
so that in the proper time and manner they may be ex-
cited to more vigorous activity.
HOW TO SELECT SWARMS.
For several reasons, I would advise beginners to pur-
chase swarms at least two years old, especially if to be
THE APIARY. 81
transferred. This operation may be more readily per-
formed, and they may be transported with less liability
of breaking the combs, and thereby injuring the bees,
than if the combs are more new and tender. If such
colonies have cast swarms the previous year, which is
usually the case, they will contain a young queen; be-
sides, stocks of this age are very apt to be more popu-
lous than younger ones.
If good swarms of the previous season can be found
in movable comb hives, and are not to be moved a
long distance, there will, of course, be no objection to
selecting such. Choose hives with straight combs and
such as have the most worker comb. The item of the
utmost importance at this period is, that they shall be
very populous ; this is almost positive proof that most
of the other desirable conditions are present.
Since the marked diminution of foul brood in this
country, the precautions to avoid introducing it, need
not be so rigidly observed as was insisted upon in the
earlier editions of this work.
COST OF BEES AND FIXTURES.
The cost of a colony of bees will of course vary in
different localities. In New York, the price of a good
swarm of native bees in a box hive, has been about $5.00,
at any season of the year. More recently, good swarms
have been sold for $4.00 in the fall, and $5.00 in the
spring. This has seemed a fair price when honey realiz-
ed the better prices that it did afew years ago; but with
the present reduction in the price of honey, I anticipate
a corresponding decrease in the cost of bees.
Those buying from dealers, where the bees are already
in movable frame hives, with straight worker combs, in
proper condition, will probably pay $8.00 each, for natives
and $10.00 for Italians. Empty hives will cost from $1.00
82 THE APIARY.
to $5.00 each. The implements necessary to properly
manage an apiary, are an Extractor $10.00, Honey- Knife,
$1.00, . Wax-Extractor,$5. 00, Smoker, $1.50, Bee-Veil, 50c.
There will, naturally, be other minor expenses even in
a small apiary. It should be borne in mind that the ex-
pense of fixtures is nearly as. much for a half a dozen
swarms as for an extensive apiary.
TRANSPORTING BEES.
In transporting your bees, avoid, if possible, the two
extremes of very cold, or very warm weather. In the
latter the combs are so nearly melted, that the weight of
the honey will bend them, bursting the cells, spilling the
honey and besmearing the bees. In very cold weather,
the combs are brittle, and easily detached from the sides
of the hive.
Have ready some carpet tacks, and pieces of thin
muslin about half a yard square. Invert the hive, put
the cloth over, neatly folded and fastened with a tack at
the corners, and another in the middle of each side:
Drive the tack in about two-thirds of its length ; it is
then convenient to pull out when required.
If the bees are to be taken some distance, and must
be confined for several days, the muslin will hardly be
sufficient, and wire-cloth must be substituted.
To prepare the movable comb-hive for long journeys,
put sticks on each side of each comb, in about two places,
to hold it steady (see directions for transferring), then
lay on the top of the frames, cross-wise, thin strips to
hold them in place, and fasten on the honey-board with
screws.* ‘Turn the hive over, and cover the bottom with
wire-cloth. With proper care they may be sent by rail-
road one thousand miles.
* Tf the combs arc old, and the distance short, the transferring sticks at the
sides of the comb may be omitted. ;
THE APIARY.. 83
Probably the best mode of conveyance is in a wagon
with elliptic springs. A wagon without springs is bad, es-
pecially for young stocks; yet I have known them to be
moved safely in this way, with care in packing hay or
straw under and around them, and careful driving.
Whatever conveyance is employed, the hive should be
inverted. The combs will then rest on the top, and are
less liable to break than when right end up, because in
the latter case, the whole weight of the combs must come
upon the fastenings at the top and sides, and these are
easily broken. When bees are moved, thus inverted, they
will creep upward ; in stocks partly full, they will often
nearly all leave the combs, and get upon the covering.
For several years, we have purchased bees largely,
bringing them sometimes a distance of 150 miles by rail,
when the weather was quite warm. At such times, we
used wire-cloth to confine the bees, which was enough
larger than the bottom of the hive, to be rounded up, so
that the bees could go above the combs, and have a freer
circulation of air.
If they are to be shut up any length of time, it i is often
beneficial to. furnish them with water, by sprinkling it
through the wire-cloth. They will receive it very gr eedily.
Half a gill may be given each swarm two or three times
each day. Ora piece of sponge may be fastened to the
wire-cloth, and kept saturated, allowing the bees to take
as much as they desire. Much care is necessary in mov-
ing heavy colonies in warm weather.
In packing hives into a wagon; place them so that the
combs will stand cross-wise of the wagon-box, as they
are less liable to break in this position. In a railroad
car, they should stand so that the combs will be length-
wise with the car.
In preparing colonies for transportation, it is frequently
necessary to work at them during the day, while the bees
are flying. All holes in the top of the hive should be
84 THE APIARY.
closed, and if there is a-hole in front, and the hive is
standing near the ground, they may be turned bottom up,
and a board set slanting from the ground to the entrance,
for the bees to pass in and out. The muslin or wire-cloth
may then be put on, and the cap, if any, placed over it,
and the usual roof replaced, until they stop flying at
night, when the hole at the side should be closed. If
there is no hole in front, bore one for the purpose. I
often put up large numbers during the day, and move
them in the evening or in the following day.
When the bees are brought to the home apiary, they
should be smoked to drive them from the wire-cloth, the
Jatter removed, and the hive placed upon the stand it is
to occupy.
TAKING BEES ON SHARES.
In managing bees for other parties, as well as in fur-
nishing them to those who wished to care for them, we
have usually been governed by the following rule: One
party furnishes all the bees, and the other does all the
work. All expenses for new material, etc., are shared
equally ; and the receipts, including the increase, are
equally divided. The ownership of the original colonies
is unchanged.
FINANCIAL RESULTS.
This is a topic upon which I shall differ widely from
many who have represented the interests of bee-keeping.
I desire to say very emphatically, that from a thorough
knowledge of the business, I must disapprove of the
position taken by some in their statements as to the ex-
traordinary returns that may be expected.
A comparison of bee-keeping with other avocations,
farming, for instance, will, I think, show a balance of
profit in favor of the former. Upon an investment of
$1,000 in bees, I should anticipate, with the same amount
THE APIARY. 85
of labor, as large an average profit as from $5,000 invested
in farming lands, at $100, or more, per acre. This
pursuit, therefore, offers evident inducements to persons
of moderate means.
Just what annual percentage from a stated investment
may be reasonably anticipated, it is impossible to de-
termine, as the seasons are far from being uniform. I
shall not encourage beginners to expect an average of
100°/, upon their investments. Some have represented
the prospect as much more alluring than this, but in
many cases the returns are likely to prove much less
satisfactory. The results attained by the majority of our
bee-keepers prove that even my estimate is much too
high. Nevertheless, I know of no substantial business
that will pay as well for the capital invested, as this of
bee-keeping.
OVER-STOCKING,
What number of stocks can be kept in one place ?
is a question often asked. I shall differ more in opinion
with some of our best authors in this, than on most other
points. Mr. Langstroth expresses himself, very confi-
dently, that over-stocking has never happened in this
country, and that there is no prospect of it. He gives us,
on the authority of Mr. Wagner, the number of stocks to
the square mile in many sections of Europe. I will give
one or two items. In the Kingdom of Hanover, 141
stocks are estimated to the square mile. In the
Province of Attica, in Greece, containing 45 square miles,
20,000 hives are kept. A Province in Holland contains
2,000 colonies per square mile.
This is, certainly, very good authority for his convic-
tion, but careful observation and somewhat extended ex-
perience will not justify me in accepting Mr. Lang-
stroth’s conclusions.
I have endeavored to convince myself that, the large
86 THE APIARY.
number of bees kept in and about my own neighborhood,
accomplish as desirable results as if the territory were
more sparsely occupied. I am thoroughly satisfied that
such is not the case.
In the most productive seasons, and during the most
ample harvests, the difference is not so perceptible, but
under less favorable circumstances, the evidence has been
most convincing. We have here, from four to five hun-
dred colonies, working on the same ground. Judging
from the results at a yard six miles away, I estimate that
if my home apiary of 150 swarms could have the sole
range of this region, I should realize an increase of, at
least, one-third in my returns. I must maintain then,
that there is danger of over-stocking, if we desire to ob-
tain the largest possible yield. These views were held by
Mr. Quinby, and were justified by his later experience.
I do not desire to be understood that bees may not be
cultivated successfully, even where there are larger num-
bers than here mentioned, for deficiencies jn periods of
scarcity may be supplied artificially, but I wish to impress
upon the novice who is selecting a site for his apiary, the
fact, that the fewer bees in the desired location, the
better are his prospects. While reducing .to practice
many points upon which he is not well informed, he will
meet with much less annoyance, if hundreds of swarms
are not able to take advantage of any undue exposure of
hives or honey, arising from his inexperienced handling.
It will always be impossible to know exactly how
many bees can be profitably kept; some seasons yield
bounteously, others only partially, and some, almost none
at all.
Whoever begins with excessive numbers, must expect
to be sometime overtaken with serious disaster. One
must lay up a store of fortitude, in prosperous times, to
last him through such seasons of discouragement.
It is an advantage to_keep as large a number. as will
CONTROLLING BEES. 87
possibly do well in one yard. They may be taken care of
with much less proportional expense. It would not do to
hire a man to take charge of every eight or ten hives,
although the average profit of the few would be much
greater than with a large number. One man can manage
100 stocks, except, perhaps, for a few days in the busiest
part of the season, and the reduction in the expense
would more than balance the larger profits from the
smaller apiaries. I would not advise keeping very large
apiaries, until warranted by experience in their care.
The resources of a country should also be gradually
tested. A honey-producing country may be like a graz-
ing region. One field may pasture ten times as many
cattle as another, and the same may be true of pasturage
for bees. =
CHAPTER V.
CONTROLLING BEES.
sa THEIR DISPOSITION.
Nature has provided the honey-bee with weapons to
defend its stores, and combativeness sufficient to use
them when necessary. If bees were powerless to repel an
enemy, there are a thousand lazy depredators, man not
excepted, who would prey upon the fruits of their indus-
try, leaving them to starve. Had it been thus arranged,
this industrious insect would probably have long since
become extinct. It behooves us, in view of these charac-
teristics, to ascertain what are considered as insults. First,
all quick motions about them, such as running, striking,
etc., are noticed. If our movements among them are
slow, cautious, and respectful, we are often allowed to
pass unmolested. Yet the exhalations from some per-
sons appear to be very offensive, as they attack some much
88 CONTROLLING BEES.
sooner than others, though I apprehend there is not so
great a difference as many suppose.* When an attack is
made, and a sting follows, the venom thus diffused in the
air is perceived by others at some distance, who will im-
mediately approach the scene, and more stings are likely
to be received.
The breathing of a person into the hive, or among
them when clustered outside, is considered in the tribu-
nals of their insect wisdom, as the greatest indignity. A
sudden jar, sometimes made by carelessly moving the hive,
is another. After being once thoroughly irritated in this
way, they remember it a long time, and are continually
on tle alert; the moment the hive is touched, they are
ready to salute a person’s face.
In adjusting the boxes and frames, some of the bees
are apt to be crushed, or cut in two. Their surviving
comrades are very liable to remember this, and to retaliate
as occasion offers.
Bees never make an attack while in quest of honey,
or on their return, until they have entered the hive. It
is only in the hive and in its vicinity, that we may expect
them to manifest this irascible disposition.
I must disagree with any one who says that we
always have warning before being stung. Two-thirds of
them sting without giving the least intimation. At other
times, when fully determined on vengeance, they will
strike the hat, and remain a moment endeavoring to
effect their object. In this case, one has warning to hold
down the face to protect it from a second attempt, which
is quite sure to follow. As they fly horizontally, the
face held in that position is not so liable to be attacked.
When they are not so thoroughly angry, they often
* Persons using liqnor or tobacco, are never successful bee-keepers, I have
in mind, @ nervous man, who is an inveterate smoker, whose bees are the most
pugnacious and unmanageable that I ever saw. After purchasing and removing
some of these colonies to my own apiary, the difference in temper was percepti’
ble for a long time.
CONTROLLING BEES. 89
approach in merely a threatening attitude, buzzing around
very provokingly for several minutes in close proximity to
one’s ears and face, apparently to ascertain our intentions.
If nothing hostile or displeasing is perceived, they will
often leave ; but should a quick motion, or disagreeable
breath offend them, the dreaded result is not long delay-
ed. Too many people are apt to construe these threaten-
ing manifestations into positive intentions to sting.
SMOKE, A CONTROLLING AGENT.
The ability to subdue the irascibility of these insects by
the judicious use of smoke, has been so clearly demon-
strated by years of successful practice, that but little
need be said concerning the necessity of it, further than
to consider the best modes of applying it. Old English
bee-masters of the past, were familiar with the stupefying
effects of ‘‘puff-ball” (a well-known fungus, found in
this country as well as in Europe), which our veteran bee-
keepers also largely used in their earlier experience.
Tobacco next came extensively into use, and for many
years was considered the sine qua non of controlling
agents. Although decisive in its effects, it arouses such
an antagonism in the bees, that the repeated use of it
but serves to increase their irritability. Although Mr.
Quinby recommended it heartily in the previous editions
of this work, he had, for a number of years, discontinued
its use; having found partially decayed wood, which
will burn without blazing, to be an efficient substitute.
In all of his later writings, he discountenanced the use of
tobacco, and advised the adoption of this wood instead.-
MODES OF USING DECAYED WOOD.
At first, and for some years, Mr. Quinby used the
wood cut into sticks of suitable size ; the smoke of which,
90 CONTROLLING BEES.
when ignited, could be directed to the desired point by
blowing with the mouth. But this method was open to
many objections. There was not only the danger that
sparks might be blown into the hive, but, as before men-
tioned, the breath is offensive to the bees, and tends to
enrage them. ‘There is also the danger that hives and
buildings may be set on fire, as one often thinks the fire
on the ignited stick to be completely extinguished, when it
is still smouldering. I have known some exceedingly nar-
row escapes from serious conflagration, due to this cause.
Mr. Quinby fully realized these objections, and for
years spent much time and thought in devising some safe
and efficient method of applying smoke.
He had already used a smoker to be held in the mouth,
the smoke to be blown among the bees with the breath,
butit was unsatisfactory. It was made of a tin tube, two
inches in diameter, and six inches long; in one end of
this, a short tube of wood was fitted, and in the other end
was a longer piece, to hold in the mouth, with a quarter-
inch hole bored through each. The fuel was ignited and
placed inside, and the smoké blown in the desired direc-
tion. Some of our best bee-keepers, Mr. Doolittle, and
others, still approve of, and use a form of mouth-smoker.
QUINBY SMOKER.
In 1873, Mr. Quinby gave the matter very particular
attention, which resulted in the invention of the upright
bellows and tube, as shown in fig. 20, and which has since
been known as the “‘Quinby Bellows Smoker.” This in-
vention I believe all agree to have been original with him.
In 1874, it was practically improved and offered to the
public.
It has still more recently been much improved in me-
chanical details, but is substantially the same in princi-
ple, and is, in its present condition, ag shown in fig. 21,
CONTROLLING BEES. 91
a popular implement of more than ordinary utility, and
is approved by the bce-keeping fraternity generally.
Several bellows smokers, differing in some
minor details of construction, have been
manufactured for sale, but these are based
upon the same essential principle, nearly
all having adopted the upright bellows and
tube. To operate the smoker, light a piece
mest Oa of decayed wood, remove the tapering part
Fig. AWS ntea of the tube, put in the wood and replace it.
The bellows is worked with one hand, di-
recting the smoke to any point desired. When not in
immediate use, it may be placed in an upright position,
thereby continuing the com-
bustion as long as required.
Mr. Quinby had a charac-
teristic dislike of patents,
and in accordance with this,
he freely gave this valuable
aid to bee-keepers, without
any of the restrictions
which would have proved
a protection against piracy,
or which would have made
it pecuniarily profitable.*
With this useful ally, one
can perform the various ac-
tive operations incident to
the management of bees, 4
with comparatively little =
fear of stings.. Byajudici- ==
ous use of smoke, aft the_. aamacen
right moment, their wa 8
bativeness is subdued and their anger turned to sub-
* [have been induced by recent developments, to cover certain i
in.this Smoker by. a patent, e cla ctuain Tneproy ements
92 CONTROLLING BEES.
mission. Their impulse is, to fill themselves with honey,
after which they are more peaceable. There are often
occasions when they will require the repeated use of
smoke to force them to yield.
MEANS OF PROTECTION.
It has been my effort to show that the fear of stings
should be no hindrance to the pursuit of bee culture ;
yet there are many who will need further protection to
insure confidence, especially when handling hybrids.
For those who must protect their hands, there 1s nothing
better than long rubber gloves. An over-sleeve of cotton
cloth with an elastic in each end to hold it snugly in
place, at wrist and elbow, will prevent rambling bees
from making explorations inside of one’s sleeve.
BEE VEIL.
To guard the face, a veil of mosquito netting, tarlatan,
or lace, is sometimes indispensable. A piece a yard and
one-quarter by three-quarters
or five-eighths of a yard,
should be sewed together,
4 with an elastic in one end
= to be adjusted over the hat
crown. Four or five inches
from the top insert a piece of
coarse-meshed wire cloth of
as fine wire as can be obtain-
ed. This should be about
6x9 inches. At a suitable
distance from the bottom at-
tach a narrow tape to tie
about the neck, as shown in fig. 22. Stout, black, bobi-
net lace, answers an excellent purpose, and is thought
by some to be better for the eyes than the wire cloth. A
GIL EL
Fig. 22.—BEE VEIL.
CONTROLLING BEES, 93
number of veils should always be in readiness, not only
for the use of the apiarian and assistants, but for the
convenience of visitors who may desire to witness the
operations.
SUITABLE DRESS FOR WOMEN,
As women are becoming more and more interested in
practical bee-keeping, it may not be amiss to offer a few
suggestions as to an appropriate dress for the work.
However out of place, long, clinging skirts may be in a
kitchen or wash-room, they are doubly so in out-of-door
employments,
Many of the operations in the apiary must be performed
before the dew has dried in the morning, or soon after a
rain, and a long dress becomes damp and draggled. It
is also a hindrance to easy and active movements, and as
the bees are liable to become entangled in the clothing,
the danger of stings is consequently increased. Every
woman who wishes to work among bees, should wear a
dress suitably short, something like what is called the
** American Costume.” Drawers should be made of the
same material as the dress, tolerably wide, gathered on a
band at the bottom, and buttoned tight about the ankle.
With sleeves close at the wrist, and veil and gloves, if
needed, nothing further can be desired.
INTEREST DISPELS FEAR.
Notwithstanding I have given considerable space to
this matter of security from stings, I wish to say that
whoever has enthusiasm or interest enough to wish to
become a successful bee-keeper, must soon learn to work
without fear, and become quite indifferent to special
means of protection.
IT remember that Mr. Quinby once said of Mr. Lang-
stroth, on the occasion of their first interview, that he
gt CONTROLLING BEES.
showed the most boldness and indifference to stings of
any man he ever saw, and seldom received any. This
illustrates the true principle. He was bent on investiga-
tion and discovery in his favorite field of study, and the
paltry fear of a few stings found no place in his mind.
As a natural consequence, the bees took but little notice
of him ; whereas, if a person passes through the apiary
expecting an attack, dodging and evading every bee that
flies near him, the bees are quite likely to become dis-
pleased and assail him, when ke would otherwise have
escaped their attention.
REMEDIES FOR STINGS.
It is difficult to tell which are the best remedies for
stings. There is so much difference in the effect upon
different individuals, and upon different parts of the
body, as well as in the depth a sting reaches, that reme-
dies effectual in one instance, will be useless in another.
Ammonia, soda, or salt and soda mixed, and slightly
moistened, are probably as efficient as anything. Camphor,
taken internally, seems to possess a virtue when the sting
is severe enough to cause blotches upon the skin, as well
as when applied externally.
When stung in the throat, drinking often of salt and
water is said to prevent serious consequences.
Whether any of these remedies are applied or not, it
is hardly necessary to say that the sting should be re-
moved as soon as practicable.
In doing this, it should be observed that as the poison
sac is yet attached to the sting, it should be extracted in
such a way as not to force any more of the poison into
the wound. The sting may often be scraped off with a
knife-blade, and the part be squeezed a little to force the
poison out. It is unquestionable that the system becomes
accustomed to the poison in time, and little annoyance is
experienced by practical bee-keepers.
HIVES AND BOXES, 95
CHAPTER VI.
HIVES AND BOXES.
MOVABLH-COMB TIVE,
The movable-comb hive was invented by Rev. L. L.
Langstroth, about 1850. The same idea was developed
about the same time, but in a less practical form, by
Dzierzon, the noted German bec-keeper, whose researches
in the natural history of bees, and practical application
of the truths he discovered, have won for him the de-
served appreciation and admiration of all intelligent
bee-keepers.
Mr. Langstroth’s invention, however, was of so practi-
cal a form as to at once command the approbation of all
investigating minds, and speedily wrought a revolution
in bee- culture, such as all apiarian history had not before
recorded. It is, perhaps, fitting that I should here
express my genuine admiration for, and appreciation of
the work Mr. Langstroth has done for American bec-
keepers. In careful, intelligent study, and insight into
the habits of the honey-bee, the clear perception of the
best means of adapting the requirements of the apiarian,
to their natures ; and in the elegant and scholarly style
‘in which his ideas have been presented to us, he has no
superior, and indeed, no equal, in the list of writers on
bee-culture. Mr. P. H. Elwood, one of the most scholarly
and educated apiarians of my acquaintance, says of Mr.
Langstroth’s book, that it is one of the most beautifully
written works that he ever read on any topic whatever.
CONSTRUCTION AND ADVAN TAGES,
For the benefit of that class of bee-keepers who are yet
using box hives, and are unfamiliar with the construction
96 HIVES AND BOXES.
and advantages of movable frames, I will briefly give the
most important points. Each comb, instead of being
attached to the top and sides of the hive, is built ina
frame, so arranged that each can be handled separately.
The hives are so made that all the combs can be in-
spected without difficulty. When the bees diminish in
numbers, the cause can be readily ascertained.
The exact amount of sealed honey can be seen at a
glance, and weak colonies strengthened, by exchanging an
empty comb, for one full of brood and honey, from a
strong colony. The amount of worker-brood that they
shall raise may be increased, and the number of drones
lessened, by substituting worker for drone comb. Swarms
can be made at pleasure by dividing. The ravages of
the moth-worm can be detected and prevented.
These are but a few of the considerations hereafter to
be presented, but should be sufficient to convince any but
the most stolid intellect, of the immeasurable superiority
of hives with movable frames, over the common box-hive.
Nevertheless, in urging enterprising bee-keepers to
adopt them, it must be clearly understood that something ~
is required beyond the mere substitution of a movable-
comb hive for the old box.
“ INTELLIGENT MANIPULATION NECESSARY.
Many bee-keepers have been sadly victimized in their
first efforts at such improvement, by the misrepresenta-
tions of unscrupulous hive-venders, whose only motive
was to obtain the fee for using their ‘‘ patent” hives, and
then leave the perplexed apiarian to blunder into worse
dilemmas than before. Many are led to believe that the
mere use of the hive in question, will insure the success
which the skilled manager of movable ‘frames is able to
attain, over the meagre results of the old system.
A hive is procured, but before building a large number,
WIVES AND LDOXES. OY
the purchaser possibly concludes, wiscly, to test it before
going further.
A swarm is hived in it, and the grand results awaited.
By the side of it, stands a box hive, containing a similiar
swarm, and if the boxes are well arranged, and the
hive smaller than the other, which is usually the case,
the chances are that more surplus honey will be stored
in them, than in those on the movable-comb hive.
Very often, too, the combs are not built straight in the
frames, thus depriving him of the advantages to be gain-
ed by handling them. The very natural conclusion of
the experimenter, would be, that he was humbugged, and
the movable-comb hive was inferior to the box.
Notwithstanding the fact that most writers think it un-
necessary to make mention of box hives, the fact that a large
number of our bee-keepers still pursue the old method
and use them, seems to me a sufficient reason for recogniz-
ing them, at least so far as to call their attention to the
deficiencies in their system, and to point out to them the
benefits to be derived from a change made with due study
and attention.
Ever since I have been engaged in bee-culture, I have
been under obligations to these box-hive men. We have
bought bees largely of them, each spring, to transfer to
our hives with movable frames, and thus fill up our
stocks to Italianize, and prepare for the following season’s
operations.
I might occupy much space in describing many hives
of much merit, but with an extended knowledge of a very
large number, I shall class them under but two heads,
Hanging-Frame and Standing-Frame Hives.
THE HANGING-FRAME OR LANGSTROTH HIVE.
In the previous revision of this work, in 1865, Mr.
Quinby fully recognized the merits of Mr. Langstroth’s
5
98 HIVES AND BOXES.
invention, and described the modified form of his hive,
which he used successfully for several years.
The simplest form is made as follows :
Cut two pieces 18°/, inches long, 12 in. wide, of ’/,-in.
lumber. Rabbet the ends ’/, in. wide, and */, in. deep,
to receive the end pieces. This will allow the corners to
be nailed from both ways, making it more firm and
strong.
Next, cut two pieces 12°/, inches long, 12 in. wide,
and same thickness.* In one edge of the ends, cut a rab-
bet '/, in. each way. Nail together with the end pieces
inside, and the rabbeting at top, to support the frames.
This will make a box 121217, inside measure. For
the bottom board cut a piece 18°/, in. long, 13°/, in. wide.
Cut two cleats 13°/, in. long, and 1'/, in. square. Nail
these on each end, with wrought nails, clinching them
firmly. Cut an entrance in this bottom board, 4 in.
wide, and */, in. deep, at the front edge, gradually slant-
ing to the surface, 4in. back. (See fig. 34). For a top,
cut a board of the same size as the bottom. Nail two
cleats 12°/, in. long, 1*/, in. wide, 7/,in. thick, across it,
1 in. from the end, and an equal distance from each edge,
clinching well. In all cleats it is well to bore holes, for
nails, to avoid splitting. It is a mistake of many writers
to advise too heavy material for bottom-boards. They
should be made light, that they may
ANN not add unnecessarily to the weight
Teo roy manus, of the hive when handling. Across
the bottom of the hive in “the center
should be a stick with bent wires, or what is better, a
cast-iron piece to hold the frames steady, and at proper
distances apart. This (fig. 23) is held in place with screws.
For a cap to cover the top and protect the boxes, cut
two pieces 19’/, inches long, and wide enough to make suf-
* Unless otherwise specified all material for hives should be } inch thick.
HIVES AND BOXES. 99
ficient depth to receive the boxes to be used. Rabbet the
corners */, in. X7/, in. in the same manner as the sides
of the hive. Cut two other pieces, same width, and 137/,
in. long for ends. Rabbet one corner of each of the four
pieces, */, in. each way, so that when nailed together
the rabbeting will come on the inside, lower edge. This
is to fit the top of the hive and hold the cap in place. A
board 19’/, x 14’/, nailed upon the top completes the cap.
Fig. 24.—HANGING-FRAME, HIVE AND CAP.
A handle for the hive and cap, as shown in fig. 24, may
be made by dropping the ends on a wabble saw, or it may
be cut with a chisel.
This is the very simplest form of case for a movable
frame hive. But it does not meet all the demands of the
progressive bee-keeper. Ventilation is to be considered. A
hole 510 inches may be cut in the center of the bottom-
board for this purpose. Twosticks, 12in. long by1x1’/,,
with a*/, in. rabbet in one corner of each, should be
nailed across the bottom board at the ends of this hole,
in which to slide a ventilator. This should be made of
100 HIVES AND BOXES.
*/, in. stuff, and cleated to prevent warping. When it
is desired to move bees, or to ventilate them in warm
weather, make a frame the size of the ventilator and cover
it with wire cloth. One is shown in fig. 34, page 108.
The rabbeting on which the frames rest may be cut °/,
inch deep, instead of '/, in., and a piece of inch hoop iron,
nailed or screwed over it, projecting upwards within */,
in. of the top, on which the frames may hang instead.
There will, in this way, be less bearing, and the frames
be less firmly fastened by the bees, thus causing less
jar in handling.
FRAMES.
Whatever the size of the frame, there should be but a
plain rim around the outside. Frames of all sorts and
fashions have been used and recommended, each with
some feature designed to meet a special necessity, but the
simplest form has long been proved the best. There is
probably no point upon which good bee-keepers differ
more widely than in regard to the depth of frames.
Some prefer a frame 15 inches deep, while others make
them as shallow as six inches. Mr. Bingham uses a
standing frame of this depth,
-_ for which he claims superior
advantages. Mr. Langstroth
also recommended a_ low
frame. I prefer a medium
between these extremes,
Frames should be made of
the best quality of lumber,
= )) pine to be preferred. A good
Fic. 5—nanomernamz, hanging frame is made as
follows: For the top bar, cut
a piece 17°/, inches long, */, in. thick, and '/, in. wide.
Cut each end down to */, in. thickness, ’/, in. from
the end. Cut two pieces for the end 11°/, in. long,
HIVES AND BOXES. 101
‘/, in. wide, and '/, in. thick. For the bottom, cut a
piece 16 in. long, ’/, in. wide, and '/, in. thick. Nail
together, making a frame as shown in fig. 25. Two tri-
angular blocks should be added to the corners to stiffen
the frame. They should be about 1'/, in. on the sides
next to the frame. ight of these frames will fill a hive.
These hives are designed to receive top-boxes only.
DIVISION-BOARD.
At any time when a limited number of frames is used,
the brood chamber should be contracted accordingly.
For this purpose, a movable . .
division-board is necessary. [~~ aa |
Tf but one or two frames are
used for a nucleus, and it is
desired that they occupy a
position at the center of the
hive, a division-board may
be placed at each side of the
combs. To make one, a board :
of the required size, with a bar across the top, as shown
in fig. 26, is all that is needed. Some cnt them slightly
smaller than the hive, and place a piece of rubber or
leather in a groove around the outside, to fit the sides of
the hive more completely.
Fig. 26.—DIVISION BOARD.
SIDE-BOXING HIVES.
The question of side-boxing hives occurs here, as their
use involves some change in the details of construction.
Are they desirable ? If honey, rather than increase of
colonies is the aim, I answer, yes. Where a moderate
increase is preferred, boxes enough to secure all the sur-
plus likely to be gathered, may be used upon the top of
the hive, by placing them two tiers high. But if swarm-
ing is to be prevented, I consider side-boxes indispensa-
102 HIVES AND BOXES.
ble, especially in the best seasons. Many cf our best
bee-keepers are using side-boxes in connection with the
hanging-frame hive. This may be done by making the
sides of the hive movable, and holding the ends in place,
by a piece of hoop-iron, at top and bottom, across each
side. The corners may be secured as illustrated, by
clasps, such as will be described hereafter. (See fig. 37.)
OBSERVATORY HIVE.
A yery convenient form of observatory hive, for the
gatisfaction of those who wish to observe the operations
Zs
"tS
iW hee
=
\
—
FF
Fig. 27.—OBSERVATORY HIVE.
of the bees, without opening the hive, can be made sub-
stantially as the above, except that the two sides should
be made with a frame, two inches wide, with a glass
fitted in the inside, and a door made of two thicknesses
of thin board, with the grain at right angles to prevent
warping. This door should fit nicely in the frame, be
HIVES AND BOXES. 103
hung with hinges, and fastened with a small button or
hook. Figure 27, illustrates this hive with a door
opened.
THE NEW QUINBY HIVE. (Fig. 28.)
It has already been mentioned, that upon the introduc-
tion of the hanging-frame hive, Mr. Quinby at once
adopted it, and used it in the form herein described, with
Fig. 28.—QUINBY HIVE, WITH FRAMES AND BOXES,
marked success and satisfaction. Itis also well known
that the majority of bee-keepers of the present day are
using it in some of its forms, with excellent results.
The late Adam Grimm, of Jefferson, Wis., used a modi-
fication of it, arranged by himself, and known as the
Grimm hive, and with it, achieved extraordinary success.
This is certainly ample proof of the inherent value of
the hanging-frame. Notwithstanding its acknowledged
merit, and the results he had attained by its use, Mr.
Quinby found, after patient investigation, that there
104 HIVES AND BOXES.
were yet points in which the hanging-frame hive was de-
ficient, especially when he desired to control swarming.
After prolonged study and experiment, he invented, about
the year 1868, the “ New Quinby Hive,” with standing
frame, and at the time of his death, in 1875, he had so
far demonstrated its practicability, and superiority, that
it was a source of much gratification.
I designate this as the New Quinby hive, from the
fact that two other hives have been known as the Quinby
hive, viz. ; the box-hive recommended in the first edi-
tion of this book, and the modified form of the Lang-
stroth, just described.
The question as to’the best size of a hive to meet all
the requirements of the advanced bee-keeper, cannot, I
maintain, be answered so well with any other hive. The
fact is, that with this hive and frame, the size may vary
from one frame for queen-rearing, to 16 for extracting, or
include any intermediate number, according to the object
in view, and in every case, the hive is equally complete
and perfect. And I claim it to be indisputable, that for
box and extracted honey, wintering, and indeed, in all
the facilities it furnishes, the New Quinby hive cannot
be surpassed by any hive now in use.
The question may be very properly asked, if this hive
is all that I claim, why has it not been more generally
adopted ? Those who are familiar with its history since
it was first given to the public can readily divine the
cause. This, as well as many other meritorious inven-
tions, has suffered materially in reputation by being sent
out in a crude, imperfect form, before the details of con-
struction were sufficiently perfected, to commend it to the
favor of less patient manipulators. It would be a source
of deep regret to me, if even a single person should sup-
pose for a moment, that the new Quinby hive now used
by J. E. Hetherington with such flattering success is not
an improvement upon those first constructed over ten
HIVES AND BOXES. 105
years since. If there be any such, they will do well to
notice carefully the details of the hive here described,
which show its latest improvements. I shall make an es-
pecial effort to describe and illustrate it clearly, for in
this, as in all points concerned in the revision of this
work, I desire to carry out fully the principles of the au-
thor, in showing that it is for the public, and not for the
sake of personal gain, *
STANDING FRAME,
I propose to describe the standing frame used with this
hive, before the case or exterior ; from the fact that it is
often used independently
of the case, which is by
some considered the pre-
ferable way. To make this
frame, cut two pieces for
ends, 11'/, in. long, 1'/,
in. wide, and */, in. thick.
Cut the top bar 16 in.
long, ’/, In. wide, */, in.
thick, and the bottom bar
the same length and width, and */, in. thick. Nail
together as indicated in figure 29, with the top and bot-
tom strips ‘/, in. from the top and bottom of ends,
making a frame 16x 10'/, inside measure. Corner blocks
should be added as in the hanging frame.
The hook for holding the frame in an upright position
is made of */,-inch hoop-iron. Cut a piece 2 °/, in. long,
and bend a right angle */, in. from one end. In the long
Fig. 29.—sTANDING FRAME.
* It is well known that Mr. Q, had an cxtreme aversion to patents, and this,
as well as many other inventions, was never covered by one. Complaints
were made during the past year (1878) that a Mr. Miller, of this State. had se-
cured a patent upon this hive, and was endeavoring to collect a royalty, in some
sections. I simply call attention to this, to warn any one using this hive, not
to pay any such unjust claim,
106 HIVES AND BOXES.
end, punch two holes large enough to receive */,-in. clout-
nails. This hook is to be
nailed on one end of one
upright piece, so that the
hook or shorter end, will
stand directly under the
center of the end with a
space of a plump ’/,, in.
between it and the end,
which gives room to hook
it under the hoop-iron on
= the bottom board, here-
=i after to be explained (fig.
30). This hook should
be nailed on before the
| frame is put together.
O. J. Hetherington makes
the hook as wide as the
= end of the frame, and
Fig. 30.—u00x ON END OF FRAME, puts one on each of the
four corners. This allows the frame to be reversed if
desired. For construct-
ing frames, a form (fig.
31) should be made, by
the use of which they
may be rapidly and ac-
curately put together.
cn a
| iL -|
" i |
" | h
wl i ; 7
PANELS, OR SIDE-BOARDS,
These panels are used
at the sides of the frames,
and the size of the brood-
nest is determined by the
number of frames placed 4
between them. The sim-
HIVES AND BOXES. 107
ig made of pine, by cutting a board 17 in, long, 11’/,
in. wide, and '/, in. thick, and cleating with two pieces
11'/, in. long, */, in. wide, and '/, in. thick. Use 1'/,
in. clout-nails (fig. 32). A better form of panel is made
by cutting two pieces 17 in. long, 1 in. wide, and */, in.
thick, and two other pieces 10’/, in. long, same width
and thickness. In the center of one edge of each of these
four pieces cut a groove '/, in. wide by ’/, in. deep. At
each end of the two longer pieces, cut away */, in. deep,
1 in. back, to receive the end pieces. This will form a
frame 17X11’/, in. outside. For a panel to fill this frame,
Fig. 32. Vig. 33.
PANEL FOR SIDE OF FRAMES. PANEL FOR SIDE OF FRAMES.
a board should be cut 15’/, in. long, 10’/, in. wide, and
*/, inch thick. Cut a rabbet all around this */, in. wide
and */, in. deep. Place this in the frame, and nail at
the corners with 1'/,-in. finishing nails. This gives ‘/,
in. margin for swelling (fig. 33). This is generally used
with the flat side next to the combs, yet occasionally it
will be found very desirable to reverse it when preparing
bees for winter, as it will give them needed access to the
heavily filled outside combs. The reason for preferring this
panel to the first is-that it does not vary in width so much
by swelling and shrinking, and is not so liable to warp.
SMALL BOTTOM BOARDS FOR QUINBY FRAMES.
"These should be, when finished, 18°/, in. long, and 15
in. wide. Cut two pieces 18°/, 5, and two others, 5x5.
108 HIVES AND BOXES.
At the end of one of these short pieces, cut two entrances,
in the same manner as heretofore directed. The whole
width of the piece should be cut away, except */, in. in
the center. Two cleats are needed, 15 in. long, 1'/, in.
square, and two others, the same length, 1’/,x’/, in.
Rabbet one corner of each of the last two ‘/, in. each
way, to hold a ventilator. Put the pieces together as in-
dicated in fig. 34, and nail to the cleats, placing the two
larger ones at the ends, and the others at the sides of the
opening for the ventilator, which may be made as hither-
to described.
On the upper surface of this bottom-board, */, in. from
the rear cdge, a groove one inch wide and */,, in. deep,
should be cut with a
dado head, or plane.
Over the front edge of
this groove naila strip
of 1-in. hoop iron,
projecting ’/,, of an
inch over it, using
1’/,-in. clout nails.
The hook on the
lower end of the frame hooks under this, and supports
the frame in an upright position. A piece of inch hoop
iron should be nailed across the front, ’/, in. from the
edge, upon which the frames may rest, and under which
the bees are to pass (fig. 34). Upon this bottom-board,
the desired number of frames may be set close together
(there being no space between the frames at the ends), a
panel placed at each side, and a strong cord tied around
all. Place a panel upon the top, and you have a com-
plete hive.
Fig. 84.—sMALL BOTTOM BOARD.
OUTER CASE NOT ALWAYS ESSENTIAL.
I have fully demonstrated in my practice, that for box-
ing both side and top, the standing frames may be used
HIVES AND BOXES. 109
with perfect success, without either case, or cap of any
kind, when the boxes are enclosed in a clamp, as hereafter
indicated. I have operated 100 swarms after this plan,
even laying aside cases and caps from choice, in warmest
weather. A good roof, to protect the hive from tho
weather, must be used; this is shown in fig. 39. For
protection in cold weather, a simple cap of proper size may
Fig. 35.—QUINBY FRAMES AND BOXES IN CLAMPS,
be made. Let it be well put together, with the top pro-
jecting ‘/, in. over, on all sides.
If preferred, this may be placed over the boxes, when
they are on the top of the frames.
re
COMPLETE NEW QUINBY HIVE.
The complete hive, full size, is made as follows: The
outer case should be made of 1-in. pine lumber, dressed
down on both sides to ’/, in. thick. The bottom-board
is 27’/,x18’/, in. It should be made of matched boards’
110 HIVES AND BOXES.
one-third as wide as the desired length of the bottom-
board. Let two pieces be 18’/, in. long, and two others
vin. The cleats should be 1x1'/, in., and 2 in. square,
respectively, and 27'/, in. in length. The ventilator, and
support for the frames are arranged precisely as in the
small bottom-board.
It would be well to omit cutting the channel over
which the hoop iron projects to support the frames, with-
in 7/, in. of each edge, which may readily be done when
using machinery, but if cut with a hand plane, it must
Fig. 36.—LARGE BOTTOM BOARD, WITH FRAME.
be cut through, and the space afterwards carefully filled
with wood or leather. Let the hoop-iron come short also,
one inch. The entrance should be divided in two parts,
as directed. Bore two °/, in. holes, one in the center of
each end, to receive dowel pins (fig. 36).
The sides, or front and back, are 27’/, in. long, and 18
in. wide. On the inside corners of the ends cut a rabbet
*/, in. deep by ’/, in. wide, in which to fit the ends, which
are 177/, X18 in.
Both ends and sides should be of matched lumber, as
they will be less liable to check than if made of one piece.
Each part should be cleated two inches from each end,
with cleats 2 in. wide, '/, thick, and 17 in. long. Nail
MIVES AND BOXES. 111
them on even with the bottom, leaving the space of one
inch at top, to receive the lid. In the center of the bot-
tom of the end pieces, put in an iron dowel-pin made of
1/ in, round iron, long enough to reach into the holes in
the bottom-board.
The top, or lid, when completed, should be 29°/, x 20°/,
in. Itis preferable that it consist of three pieces, but
two will do. Cut them
29'/, in. long, and so
that they will make a
width of 19 in. Two
pieces 19 in. long, 1'/,
in. wide, and ’/, in. thick
should be nailed flatwise
on the under side at each
end. Two other strips
29'/, in. long, 1°/, in.
wide, by ’/, in. thick, are
to be nailed at the sides,
which forms the entire
rim of the lid. The cor-
ners of the hive are held
together by an appliance
designed for the purpose
by Mr. Quinby, and known as the ‘‘Quinby Hive
Clasp ” (fig. 37). It will be found admirable to use on
any hive, as nailing is avoided, and strength and solidity
secured. At the same time hives can be readily taken
apart for examination, or to pack away when not in use.
With the required number of frames in the center, and
space for boxes at sides and top, the hive is now ready to
set up (fig. 38).
POSITION OF THE FRAMES,
Fig. 37.—QUINBY HIVE CLASP.
The question often arises as to whether the frames
should stand at right angles to, or parallel with the front
112 HIVES AND BOXES.
of the hive. The preference of most of our leading bee-
keepers seems to be to have them run from front to rear,
yet there are good arguments in favor of the other direc-
tion. The bees must, of necessity, pass more readily into
side boxes with frames from side to side, and the boxes
will also receive more uniform warmth from the brood-
chamber. Several very practical hives are constructed in
Fig. 33.—QUINBY HIVE, WITH ROOF.
this manner, yet if the frames are short, it will take about
one-third more in number to fill the same space, thus in-
creasing the labor when much handling. is to be done.
Yet, all points well considered, I prefer them the other
way.
STANDS FOR HIVES.
The question of stands has been productive of almost
as much discussion as that of hives. Every form has been
advocated, from those elevated several feet, to those rest-
ing directly on the ground ; some even going so far as to
set their hives close to the earth, without cleats under the
bottom-board, and in warm, dry weather, even removing.
WIVES AND BOXES. 113
that, claiming that the cool ground assisted in lowering
the temperature of the hive, which is undoubtedly true.
As is almost always the case, some good reasons may be
presented in favor of cach practice. After due experi-
ence, I find nothing better than simple pieces of 4x4
scantling, the same length as the cleats of the bottom-
board. One of these at front and rear of each hive, will
make as good a stand as can be desired.
ALIGHTING BOARDS.
A board one foot wide and as long as the width of the
hive; bevelled on one edge, so as to fit snugly below the
entrance, and slanting to the ground, makes a good
alighting board. It maybe hooked to the bottom-board,
or a wooden pin may be driven into the ground at the
lower edge. Some practical means of assisting the bees
to gain the entrance is very essential. (See fig. 38.)
Many extend the bottom-board a few inches in front
for this purpose, but I do not regard it with favor, as it
occupies more room in winter quarters, and in transpor-
tation. It is likewise less convenient to handle.
ROOFS.
A good roof is an absolute necessity. The material
should be of good quality. There are two forms of roof
which I find suitable
and convenient. The
size should vary ac-
cording to the size of
the hive, and should
project over all sides,
at least three inches.
If made according to fig. 38, the pieces on which the
boards rest to give the pitch should be just far enough
Fig. 39.—noor For Ive.
114 HIVES AND BOXES.
apart to set over each end of the hive. The lumber
should be '/, in. thick.
The second form may be made of ’/, in. boards, fig. 39.
In putting roofs together wherever one piece joins an-
other, they should be first painted, and when finished,
should receive a good coat of paint, and as often after as
may be needed.
PAINTING HIVES.
The principal reason why hives should be painted is,
that it gives a cheerful and tidy appearance to the apiary.
If hives are well painted it should induce those who are
operating with them to handle them with more care.
Paint will also assist in preserving hives when exposed to
the weather. Nevertheless, painting has its manifest dis-
advantages. I have always kept both painted and un-
painted hives in my apiary, and am fully convinced that
the closing of the pores of the wood is frequently very
detrimental. Iam of the opinion that the rays of the
sun are not so readily absorbed, and that moisture is re-
tained, which, without paint, will pass off through the
pores of the wood, leaving the interior of the hive in a
much more wholesome condition.
In this as in all kindred matters the bee-keeper must
make his own experiments, and form his own conclusions.
There is less objection to painting the standing-frame
hive than some others, as the case or top may at any time
be removed without disturbing the brood-nest, and the
inside thoroughly warmed and dried ; also from the con-
struction of the case there is a better opportunity for the
moisture to escape, than where the parts are firmly nailed
together. Hives should always be painted as long before
using as possible, to free them from any odor, objection-
able to the bees, and they should be in light colors.
Tn view of the frequent exchange of hives in the same
apiary, I would suggest that they be painted of some uni-
HIVES AND BOXES. 115
form shade; and the desired variation in color, which
assists the bee in identifying the spot can be secured by
different colored roofs, which need not be changed.
ACCURACY ESSENTIAL,
In concluding this topic, let me urge that whatever the
form of hive to be used, they be most thoroughly made.
It will be noticed that in the dimensions of the New
Quinby hive, figures are given as closely as ‘/,, inch. At
first thought, these may seem too minute points for the
average bee-keeper to observe. But let me say that this
may prove the initial lesson in the necessity for attention
to minor details, for it is unquestionable that success in
bee-keeping depends upon habits of careful attention to
little things. Begin then with thoroughly, and accurately
made hives. All hives in the same apiary should be pre-
cisely alike, so that all parts.are interchangeable. One of
the preéminent merits of the movable-comb hive, is in
this facility for exchanging combs of honey and brood,
for the purpose of equalizing strong and weak colonies.
The most extensive apiarian of this country, J. E,
Hetherington, is using 850 of the New Quinby hives, and
all are manufactured with admirable accuracy. It is not
strange that with this disposition and ability for perfect
mechanical work in the construction of his hives and
innumerable fixtures, he should reap noticeable success
in his favorite pursuit.
Reliable dealers will often furnish bee-hive materials,
accurately cut, at much lower rates than a person with
less mechanical facilities can prepare them for himself.
HONEY BOXES.
Three important considerations are apparent in deter-
mining the kind of box to be used. First, that it ie
sufficiently practical to mect the wants of the bee-kceper ;
116 HIVES AND BOXES.
second, it must in form and convenience meet the de-
mands of the dealer; and, third, that it present an at-
tractive appearance to the consumer. As there are many
forms equally practical for the producer, it remains to
inquire what the market demands. This question will
be answered variously in different markets.
In New York City, all styles can be sold, from the large
wooden box on which tare is allowed, to the dainty one-
comb section box now becoming so popular. If a home
trade, or local market is to be consulted, a very different
box, may, in most cases, be used. Every bee-keeper will
decide these questions according to the demand. What-
ever the form designed for the grocery trade, it must be
one that can be handled without bruising the combs, or
injuring the capping, rendering it untidy, and soiling
everything with which it comes in contact. The honey
trade has already been much injured by the use of an un-
suitable box.
SECTION-FRAMES OBJECTIONABLE.
For the past few years, section-frames as used by
several leading bee-keepers, have been sold largely
through the Mohawk Valley. I have watched the re-
sult with much interest. These frames, holding about
a pound and a half each, are arranged side by side in
rows of 8 or 10, with a glass at the two outer sides.
There being no separators between them, the combs are
not built true in each frame, but are often attached at
the edges to the different frames. In handling and de-
livering them, the sides are necessarily exposed, and
easily bruised ; and in retailing, the sections are broken
apart, which frequently involves breaking the cells, even
when the combs are straight, thus presenting some very
objectionable features to the dealer and consumer.
I have seen honey offered for sale in this shape, when it
was necessary to set the frames in a shallow dish to catch
HIVES AND BOXES. 117
the drainage, and any ono can easily imagine its sticky,
unattractive condition. A customer will often take a
number of smaller boxes, in spite of the extra glass,
rather than ono large one, in order to avoid the leakage
caused by removing one comb at a time, as wanted.
It also is oven to the very serious objection of attract-
ing marauding bees, as the season of the year precludes
their being otherwise busy. I have known grocers to be
so seriously annoyed in this way as to be obliged to close
their stores. It is very difficult to sell honey to parties
who have handled it in such an undesirable shape.
This is a matter of importance. I am not speaking
from limited knowledge, but from extensive observation.
We must look well to the causes that operate against the
sale of honey.
TWO-COMB BOXES.
Very many forms of two-comb boxes have been in use
for a long time, with more or less desirable features. I
shall describe but one, which recent experience commends
as exceedingly practicable. In describing this box, I shall
consider the size to be used on the Quinby hive, and
weighing 5 lbs. when filled.
The top and bottom are made of pine,‘/, in. thick,6’/, in.
long, by 4'/, in. wide. These are designed to set at right
angles to the frames, both at top and sides.
Three 1'/, in. holes are made in the bottom.
The posts at each corner are °/, in. square,
and 5 in. high. This constitutes the entire
wood-work of the box. When nailed to-
gether, the outside cf the posts should stand
Fig. 40. ‘°/, in. in from the corner, so that when
tin For cor- packed closely together, there will be less
NER Posts. danger of breakage. The glass is held in place
by tins, driven diagonally through the center of the post,
and clinched, (fig. 40). It will be seen that these tins
118 HIVES AND BOXES.
allow the glass to be taken from the sides of the box and
returned, even when the box is filled with honey. Glass
for the sides is 5x6 inches. If desired to use only top
boxes, both end-glasses may be alike, and cut 45 inches.
In practice, it will be found that boxes to be used at
sides and top, should be exactly alike, as at times it be-
comes necessary to place those that are partly filled at the
sides, on the top to be finished, and vice versa; hence
all boxes should have both end and bottom entrance.
For this purpose, let one end-glass be cut 2X5 in.,
and secured at top and bottom with glue. This leaves
a space of over '/, in. at each side, for an entrance, when
Fig. 41a.—TWo-coMB Box, Fig. 41b.—HONEY BOARD.
placed at the sides of the combs, and permits a passage
from box to box, when these ends are placed together on
the top. Guides of clean white comb are indispensable.
Holes should be made for nails to prevent splitting.
(Fig 41, a.)
BLOCK FOR SETTING UP BOXES,
For this, use 1-inch basswood lumber. It is a box 5
in. high and ’/, in. smaller each way inside, than the out-
side measure of the honey-box. Before nailing the bot-
tom on the block, saw °/, in. from each inside corner out-
wardly, on an exact mitre. This is to receive the tins
that are in the posts. Slight steel-wire springs should
be used to hold each post in position until nailed. On the
upper edge of each of the four sides, nail a narrow, thin
strip ‘/, in. from the inside edge, to hold the bottom of the
HIVES AND BOXES, 119
box in exact position over the posts, for nailing. This
completes the block. The inside of one corner of such a
block is shown in fig. 42. Now, to put the box together,
place a post in each corner of the block, lay the bottom
in place, and nail each corner with inch-finishing nails.
If the springs for holding the posts are properly arrang-
ed, the four posts may be drawn from the block, by the
bottom. To complete the box, an arrangement is used
like fig. 43. To make this, take a piece of inch board a
foot long, and 8 in. wide, for a base. Near one corner
make a standard 5°/,, in. high, of two pieces 1 in. thick,
4 in. and 2 in. wide respectively. Nail them together at
Fig. 42.
BLOCK FOR SETTING UP BOXES. STANDARD FOR TOPS OF BOXES.
right angles, after having cut a slot */, in. deep at the
bottom, to receive the bottom of the box. Nail thin
strips on the top, the same as on the block. In the center
of the corner, bore an inch hole to receive the tin in the
post. Lay the box as taken from the block, against this
corner, bottom down, place the top on it, and nail each
corner. At this point it will be found that the top does
not rest snugly against the ends of the posts. It is left
'/,, in. away, to allow the glass to be more readily put in
place. This should now be done, and the glass secured
by the tins, bent over each way. The guide combs
should be put in before the glass is in place. After all
the glass is in, except the narrow end, place the box on
a smooth, solid metal surface, and drive the nails snug.
120 HIVES AND BOXES.
Now, put in the narrow piece with glue, and the box is
complete. If the work is properly done in all its parts,
this makes a neat, strong, and desirable box.
A honey-board */, in. thick is placed between the
boxes and the top of the frames, having holes bored in it,
to correspond to the holes in the boxes. (See fig. 41 6.)
If used at the sides, in the large case, they may be ar-
ranged in two rows upon a board the length of the frame,
and as wide as the length of the box, with the open end
next to the comb.
When the Quinby frames are used without the case,
these boxes may be placed at both top and side, by en-
closing them in a thin case to exclude the light.
SINGLE COMB, OR SECTION BOXES,
The most popular box of the day is the one-comb, or
section-box, varying in size from 4x4 to 6x7; the size
most largely used, taking 5x6 glass, and known as the
‘Prize Box,” being 5'/, x 6’/, in.. That which I prefer is
5'/, in. outside measure, taking glass 55. In preferring
a box of these dimensions, I do not lose sight of the fact
that there is a disadvantage in it. ‘Those using a still
smaller size should notice these objections. It is well es-
tablished, that the larger the boxes, the more honey will
be proportionally secured. Asa rule, I should expect to
have as many 5X6 boxes filled in a given time as if they
were 5X5. If this be true, we who uce the smaller boxes,
are losing more in amount than we shall gain in extra
prices. The same idea has a bearing upon the thickness
of the box. An addition of */, in. to the thickness of a
comb would increase the weight very materially, yet it
would be filled with very little more labor to the bees, and
finished, when fresh boxes added would not be occupied.
IT have used sections varying in width from 1°/, in. to 2’/,
in., but have adopted one 2 in. wide, as best suited to my
HIVES AND BOXES. 121
purpose. One cause of this preference is, that as they
are ordinarily filled, I can assort them, in packing for
market, in cases of 3, 6, and 12 boxes each, and make
them net weights of 5, 10, and 20 lbs. to the case. With
me, this is a desirable point. Furthermore, these smaller
combs are less liable to break down during transportation
than larger and heavier ones.
CONSTRUCTION OF SECTION BOX.
This size may be made by cutting two pieces */, in.
thick, 5'/, in. long, and 2 in. wide; and two more ‘/, in.
thick, 5 in. long, and 1°/, in. wide.
This will make a box 5'/, in. square,
(fig. 45). It should be nailed together
Fig. 44. with */,-inch cigar-box nails. The
TEN GEOR TSE OE ue ees /s -in. space on each side of the narrow
ING GLASS.
piece is to receive the glass which is
fastened with tin points, cut for the purpose (fig. ab
driven in the wood,
and bent down over
‘ the edge of the glass.
These tn points
may either be driven
in, and bent down
before the boxes are
filled, or left until =
afterwards, if pre- Fig. 45,—sECTION BOXES.
ferred. There is something to recommend each method.
It is impracticable to require the
bees to fill the sections after they
are glassed. In nailing section-
boxes together, it will be conve-
——— nient to use a form for the pur-
Fig. 46.—vorm ror Mazina pose. By its use each piece is
a iid held in its proper position, and
the boxes put together very rapidly (fig. 46).
6
122 HIVES AND BOXES,
GUIDE COMBS.
Guides of nice, white comb should be glued in the top
of each box, to induce the bees to begin work, as well as
to secure straight combs. I find nothing better for this
purpose than white glue. Drone comb is preferable to
worker comb for guides, from the fact that the bees are
more apt to store pollen in worker comb. This is objec-
tionable in itself, and also moth-worms are more likely to
infest boxes in which pollen is found. Worker comb,
however, usually gives the honey a finer appearance.
SEPARATORS.
The boxes should be arranged in a case, or clamp, with
separators or panels between them, to insure the accuracy
of the combs, so that they may be glassed readily, after
being filled. These separators may be
of tin or wood, as preferred. I have
used the one I will now describe with
success. Cut a piece of */,,-in. board °/,
in. smaller than the inside measure of
the box. In each end, a saw-kerf
J should be cut */, in. deep, with a very
ea pe thin saw. Cut two strips of tin, scant
5 5'/, in. long and */, in. wide. Fasten
these in the saw-kerfs, letting the ends project equally
beyond the edges of the panel. Attach separator to box in
such a manner that the apertures will be equal-at all
sides (fig. 47). Only one is used on each box. A cheaper
panel, which involves less labor, and works equally well,
may be made to reach the width of the clamp, covering
two boxes. The length of the panel should be equal to
the width of two boxes, and its width should correspond
to their hight. It should be */,, m. thick. For an open-
ing for the bees to pass from box to box, cut away the
panel, as shown in fig. 48. The aperture should not be
HIVES AND BOXES. 123
more than °/, in., measuring from the inside edge of the
box. It will be scen that with this arrangement the becs
are able to pass in, on but two sides of the pancl. ‘This
is considered by many to present some advantages. With
this panel, each clamp will contain but 14 boxes, while
with the preceding one it will hold 16 boxes. I prefer
the latter separator, as it
enlarges the entrance by 5 =
spreading the boxes, and ===
Ido not consider */, in.
between the boxes an am-
ple entrance. It will be
seen that by making the
panels */,, in. thick, it gives an opening of ’/,, in.
Many of our best bee-keepers use only a’/, in. entrance,
and I should not speak so positively, were it not that I
have tested it very thoroughly and proved the superiority
of the larger passage. I have arranged the width of box,
and separators, with reference to the use of the clamp, at
either top or sides, by placing the guides in proper position.
Fig. 48.—sEPARATOR.
THE CLAMP.
This is made by nailing ~wo sides and one end of the
right size, sub-
stantially, and a
strip ’/, in. deep
across the bottom
of the other end.
The hight should
be the same as
that of the boxes.
Nail a stmp of
1-inch hoop-iron
lengthwise at each
edge of the bot-
tom, and parallel with them; at the center, a piece of
Fig. 49.—RMPTY CLAMP.
124 HIVES AND BOXES.
1-in. band-iron should be secured at cach end with screws.
The boxes are to rest ae these irons. A movable piece
—— of board should fit the
incomplete end, to be
held in place by two
hooks (fig. 49). The
boxes should be in two
rows, with 7 or 8 in
each row, according to
= the panel or separator
” used (fig. 50). A panel
as used at the sides of
the frames may be
placed over the top of the clamp, and. secured by hooks.
This manner of arranging boxes in clamps will be found
serviceable in many ways.
The boxes may be prepared
in the winter and packed in
them, where they will not be
exposed to the light, or in
danger of being soiled. When iz.
ready to put upon the hives, =
they are much more expedi- Fig. 51.
tHiously handled than the large **** CONTAINING Six BoxEs,
two-comb boxes, which must be adjusted one by one.
Boxes at’ the outside, but partially filled, may be ex-
ih aay
te iT
mq at the center, when
Fig. 52.—rRAME CONTAINING THREE pores,
Fig. 50.—cLAMP FILLED WITH BOXES,
_——
pleted at nearly
the same time.
When filled, a large
portion may be
kept in the clamps, free from art and dust, until ready
to prepare for market. Side boxes are used by some mm
the hanging-frame hive, by placing them in a frame, as
| eee
TRANSFERRING. . 125
shown in fig. 51, and suspending them at the outside of
the brood-combs. Others arrange them in a frame, like
fig. 52, and suspend them in a clamp on the top.
CHAPTER VII.
TRANSFERRING.
The process of transferring combs from a box-hive to
movable frames appears about as formidable to a novice
as any of the operations of the apiary. But many ob-
stacles dwindle, and become comparatively insignificant
when boldly approached, so a little resolution soon
shows the timid apiarian that this is not nearly so serious
an undertaking as it appears to be.
ADVANTAGES.
The advantages to be gained do not lie solely in the ex-
change of a box-hive, for the convenience of movable
combs, although that is, of course, the primary object.
With the exception of the use of comb foundation, there
is probably no other way of securing straight, even worker-
combs so satisfactorily as by transferring. The control
it gives over the production of useless drones by the re-
jection of drone-comb is an item of signal importance.
The moth-worm may be readily dislodged from any por-
tion of the hives, and combs that are too old, or other-
wise objectionable, may be discarded. The mere fact of
the change alone often seems to impel the bees to work
with greater energy and vigor. By purchasing bees in
box-hives, and transferring to movable frames, an apiary
can usually be stocked at less expense than if the bees are
bought already in movable combs. *
126 TRANSFERRING.
TIME TO TRANSFER.
Experience indicates that there is no better time for
transferring than just as apple-trees begin to blossom,
The benefits derived from the operation, as mentioned
above, show that a period when there is the least honey
and brood in the combs is naturally the most desirable.
‘As the bees are beginning to gather honey, they are less
liable to rob, and the combs are more readily repaired and
fastened in the frames. It is practicable at any time when
honey is being collected. But the greater the quantity of
honey and brood present, the more care is required in the
process.
PRELIMINARIES.
Have the following articles in readiness: A transfer-
ring board, about the size of the frame, with cleats 2 in.
square under each end. Grooves '/, in. wide and */, in.
deep, should be
made at intervals
of about 2 inches
across the board.
Cushion the sur-
faces between
these grooves by
= ger tacking on sev-
Fig. 53.—TRANSFERRING BOARD. eral thicknesses
of cloth, to prevent injury to the brood when the comb
is laid upon it (fig. 53), Transferring sticks for holding
the combs in place ——_____
should be '/, in. st
square and °/, in.
longer than the
depth of the frame. Fasten two sticks together at one end
with a piece of fine, annealed wire, long enough to bring
them about one inch apart. Attach a piece of wire to
the other end of one of these sticks, leaving one end of
ah
c
Fig. 54.—TRANSFERRING STICKS.
TRANSFERRING. 127
the wire loose (fig. 54). In this way the sticks are in
pairs ready for use.
A smoker, a long, sharp, thin-bladed knife, a chisel, an
axe or hatchet, a small common hand-saw, a small wing,
and a dish of water, will complete the outfit.
PROCESS.
The operation should be performed in a room with all
the windows but one darkened. ‘The hive to which the
bees are to be transferred should be placed under this
window in such a position that the bees may be readily
brushed into it at the close of the operation.
After smoking the bees slightly, turn the hive bottom
up and place an empty box over it the same size as the
hive. By tapping the hive gently, most of the bees will
leave it and enter the box above. When most of the bees
are in the box, place it upon the old stand, raising it a
little in front for the passage of the bees, and remove the
hive containing the combs to the room selected. Place
the hive bottom up on a solid block, or other support,
about two feet high. Saw the combs and cross-sticks
loose from the side, or sides, you desire to remove.
If the combs stand parallel with the sides, it will often
only be necessary to remove one side, but if they are
diagonal two sides will need to be taken off. If the grain
of the wood runs up and down, split the sides in several
places and take out the pieces separately, but if the grain
runs across, pry them off with a chisel. During all opera-
tions use care not to crush any bees remaining in the hive.
Upon a table or bench near by, place the transferring-
board. Now, with the knife, remove the outside combs,
brush off the bees with a wing and set them one side until
you come to one containing brood. Place this upon the
board described, so that it will occupy the same position
as it did in the hive, or if, as is sometimes the case, it
128 TRANSFERRING.
will cut to better advantage by turning it half way round,
bringing the top to the end of the frame, this is allowable.
Place the frame over the comb in such a manner as to
bring the brood as near the top and center of frame as
possible, as this is the warmest position in the hive. Cut
the comb to fit snugly in this positon. If the comb 1s not
large enough to fill the frame, use from the combs first
removed to fill up with. Push the free end of the trans-
ferring sticks through the grooves where the combs
necd support, and fasten to the other end by winding the
end of the wire tightly around it, which will hold the
comb firmly in place. Use a sufficient number of sticks
a Fig. 55.—TRANSFERRED COMBS. o
to secure it properly. Do not let them cross the brood
any more than is absolutely necessary (fig. 55). Place
the frame in the hive it is to occupy, and proceed with the
next brood-comb in the same manner. Let them occupy
the same relative position as before, keeping the brood as
compact as possible.
If there are combs without brood sufficient to fill one
or more frames, place them at the outside, with the
brood-combs at the center. Cut off all round, finished
edges, and avoid cutting the combs to waste ; all pieces of
dry comb too small for use should be kept for beeswax.
Drone-comb should be reserved; if white, save it for
guides in surplus boxes; if dark, put it in frames for ex-
tracting. A dish should be at hand. to receive such por-
tions of comb-honey as are not put in the frames.
Brush all bees from the window into the hive, with a
QUEENS. 129
damp wing, and take to the old position on the stand.
Empty the bees from the box, in front of the hive, and
see that all enter. Contract the entrance, and in all ways
prevent robbing. A little honey left on the outside might
excite plundering, and the colony is not now in good con-
dition to repel attacks. If they are strong, the bees will
soon join all the parts, and fasten all the combs securely
to the frames, when the sticks may be taken off and laid
away for future use. For their first experiments in this
direction beginners should select a hive with old, tough,
and straight combs,
Capt. Hetherington prepares his frames for transfer-
ring, by boring holes through all four sides of the frame,
about once in two inches, and fastens the combs in place,
by sticking the thorns of the red haw through these holes
into the edges of the comb. As these are very tough, and
do not need to be removed, they make the comb very
firm, and less liable to break out when handling. He has
practised this method very extensively, and considers it
superior to any other. It is desirable to. find the queen,
if possible, when driving the bees into the box, and cage
her. After the transferring is completed, place the cage
on top of, or between the combs, when the bees will moze
readily gather among them. When they become i
she may be liberated.
CHAPTER VIII.
QUEENS.
IMPORTANCE OF SELECTING GOOD STOCK.
The prosperity of every swarm depends very largely upon
the queen. This being true, too much importance cannot
be attached to the necessity of keeping each hive supplied
with a good queen. In all other branches of stock-raising
130 QUEENS.
we sclect the finest stock to propagate from, if we expect
to secure the best qualities. We also apprehend the ne.
cessity of introducing from time to time, superior strains,
and of breeding from parents not akin. Who can fail to
perceive the injury that must have come to our native
bees from two sources, viz., from being propagated from
inferior stock, and from in-breeding ?
A prime consideration then, preliminary to the proper
rearing of queens, is, that at least two distinct strains of
blood of best quality should be represented. This is
casily done, if Italian stock is to be raised, by ordering
tested queens from different breeders, who are known to
have procured their stock from distinct sources. In pur-
chasing such queens, do not hesitate to pay a good price
for a first-class queen. Every breeder has queens which
he values at high prices, and if you can secure one that a
reliable dealer considers worth $5.00, you are fortunate,
even when ordinarily good ones are selling for $2.00.
It will be seen, as we procecd, that the quality of the
strains from which the queens are to be reared, may be
definitely determined, as the brood used may be taken
only from colonies containing selected queens. But
the characteristics of the drones by which these choice
queens are to be fertilized, will be much more un-
certain.
It is true we can prevent the swarms from which we
rear our queens, from producing drones, thereby setting
one obstacle aside ; and it is also evident that we need not
allow any but selected colomies to rear drones, by remov-
ing drone combs, and destroying such drone brood as is
objectionable. If any mature drones are in the way,
they may be removed as follows: Cage the queen,
brush all the bees from the combs into a box, and place
over 1t a board, with an opening, across which are
nailed strips of tin or zinc, precisely °/,, in. apart.
‘These openings will permit the workers to pass into the
QUEENS. 131
hives, which should be placed above, containing the caged
queen, while the drones are retained in the box.
Drone combs may be supplied to these chosen colonies,
and the bulk if not the whole of the drones in our
apiary be furnished from such stock, Yet there are
native, or inferior bees in almost every section, so near,
that our choice queens are liable to be fertilized by their
drones. :
If I were able to recommend a practical method of se-
curing with certainty, the impregnation of our queens,
by selected drones, it would afford me great gratification.
FERTILIZATION IN CONFINEMENT.
This subject has received special attention, and in sev-
eral instances, success has been reported. While associated
with Mr. Quinby, we experimented upon it thoroughly,
with the aid of every suggestion that had been given by
those who advocated it most strenuously, and in every in-
stance we were unsuccessful. We used enclosures of all
dimensions, from a lamp chimney up to a room 8 ft.
square, covered at top, and each side with wire cloth and
glass. I have witnessed the queen as she came naturally
forth from the hive into this room, and was surrounded
by drones on the wing, yet in no single instance did we
attain the desired result. But the fact that we have not
been successful is by no means proof of its impossibility.
Many who have experimented in this direction express
themselves confident of success.
Prof. Hasbrouck of Flatbush, L. L, in a paper read
before the National Convention held in New York in 1878,
states that in many instances he has witnessed their mat-
ing in small boxes upon the top of his hives. It is, how-
ever, so far from being umiformly successful, that a prac-
ticable method for accomplishing itcan not yet be confi-
dentiy recommended. But I anticipate the time when
132 QUEENS.
persistent experiment will overcome present obstacles, and
achieve the desired result. An earnest wish may prompt
this opinion, for, if successful, the result must be a higher
standard of purity, and an excellence not otherwise to be
attained.
REARING QUEENS.
WHEN TO REAR,
The first step necessary is to secure a supply of drones
from such stocks as may have been chosen for the pur-
pose. It is usually better to select such swarms the sea-
son previous, furnish them drone comb, and mark them
so as to identify them. As in most other active opera-
tions of the apiary, the time at which queens may be prof-
itably reared, will vary in different seasons and localities.
It will be seen that I do not advocate as early operations
as many writers. I have sometimes succeeded in stimu-
lating swarms to unusually early breeding, but such
efforts have never resulted profitably.
In a climate like Central New York I shall not advise
rearing queens before apple blossoms appear, which is
here from the 12th to the 20th of May.
Swarms that are queenless before this time should be
united with others that have queens. Even at this date
queen-rearing will be found somewhat vexatious, especially
if the weather is unfavorable, and the usual scarcity of
honey follows, as it will necessitate feeding.
The nuclei will also need to be much stronger at this
time, than later in the season. if it is desired to rear
Italian queens at such times as native drones will not in-
terfere, it may often be done by stimulating. Italian colo-
nies to early breeding in spring; or a native stock may
have Italian drone-brood given it towards fall, and if they
are kept queenless, they will keep their drones late in the
season, after the native drones are destroyed. I have suc-
QUEENS. 133
ceeded in rearing fine Italian queens as late as October,
when the weather was very fair, which were fertilized by
such selected drones.
I think it wise, as a rule, not to attempt to rear any
great number of queens until June, when the interval of
scarcity after apple-blossoms has passed, and the subse-
quent flow of honey has commenced. The point which I
desire to impress is this, that queen-rearing should be
carried on, as far as possible, when the bees are gathering
honey most abundantly. There is probably no more
auspicious time than during the swarming period. I
would avail myself of every opportunity to preserve the
oldest and best developed queen cells, from suitable stock,
where preparations had been made for swarming.
HOW TO REAR QUEENS.
I here give place to a paper by M. Quinby, which has
received the hearty approval of many of our most capable
bee-keepers. He says:
<« # * * JT have studied well the conditions that
produce good queens, as well as inferior ones, and I have
never yet found a queen that will
duplicate herself on every occa-
sion, unless it is one of the com-
mon variety. I can count a few
dozen, perhaps, after which will
be some variation. I have settled
down pretty much on one system :
‘First, make a nucleus box,
five inches wide, seven inches
long, and six inches high, hold-
ing, at least, three combs (fig.
56). These combs should contain honey’ enough to
last two or three days, or more. Now, go to the hive
from which you are breeding, and obtain a piece of
worker-brood comb, nearly three inches long and about
Fig. 56.—NUCLEUS BOX.
134 QUEENS.
half an inch wide (fig. 57). This should be new, if
possible. The Jarvee should not be less than two nor more
ae a = — than three days old, from
952923959 the egg. In the center of
e a 9= 9 = the middle comb cut a space
V2 aa ” three inches long by an
Fig, 57.—comn, WITH BROOD ¥OR inch deep. Insert this piece
osotconra of brood, which is support-
ed at the ends, by the shape, as shown in fig. 58. Allow
no more brood in the box. In the middle of the day when
the bees are flying, take out from a strong colony that is
rex
€eEs,
4
eg ace, ©,
C24,
CLES, rs
SERS OTH
Fig. 58.—coMB, 43 ABOVE, INSERTED IN COMB.
maturing brood, a little less than a quart of bees, nearly
all of which will be young bees, which are thought to be
better nurses. Shut them in the nucleus box thirty-six
or forty-eight hours, and then Ict therm out. ‘They will
QUEENS. 135
build several queen cells (fig. 59). If the brood was just
the right age, they will be likely to hatch in ten days, not
less. At the end of that time, look carly in the morning,
and if you can cut any of them out without injuring ‘the
others, do it, but leave one. If joined so that you will
have to destroy a part to separate them, leave them, but
examine several times through the day, and if any hatch,
remove them at once ; I have found four hatched, at one
A TT \ Ass
Fig. 59.—QUEEN CELLS ON COMB.
time. The cells that have been cut out may be used to
supply other nuclei, or they may be transferred to the
queen nursery (fig. 60). I claim that I can raise, thus
cheaply, as good queens as can be obtained. I feel like
saying better than those will average, where a full colony
has been employed to raise a dozen. I know that lam on
delicate ground. Some of my best friends, who are earn-
est in their wishes to advance the science of bee-culture,
will pity, perhaps condemn me. If the reasons that I
136 QUEENS.
give are not sufficient to sustain the system, let it fall; I
want it upheld by merits of its own, or not at all.
“How is it with natural swarms ? Ten or fifteen cells
are often made where a swarm has issued. The first are
made under the impulse of
the swarming fever. If the
swarm issues before any are
sealed over, very many will
FSiss| be started at once. Some
: es) az of them, however, after the
Za swarm has left, receive much
= less attention than the first
Fig. 60.—QUEEN NURSERY. ones did. If want of atten-
tion makes an inferior queen in case of artificial rearing,
can any one say why the same causes will not produce the
same results here? We are not likely to ascertain for a
certainty, as all except two or three of the first are de-
stroyed. But when we come to imitate natural swarming,
in a sense, by removing a queen from a full stock, and
claim better queens in consequence, we can test it some-
what. We find in the attempts to replace the mother, a
still greater diversity in the time of starting cells. It is
reported that some queens will hatch in nine days, some
in ten, others sixteen and eighteen, and at all intermediate
times. Those hatching under ten days are claimed to
be deficient in development, and short-lived. I never had
any nine-day queens, and cannot say. Those that are
slow to mature are quite apt to be deficient. Ido not
say that some such do not make beautiful queens, but- the
average is no better than ten-day queens.
“‘ When first deprived of the mother, the bees make
cells over larva, without seeming to care much for a con-
venient place ; after the first impulse is over, they find a
good place occasionally, and commence other cells, but
having a large number already, they work as if they cared
little for these last. They seem to nurse such for want of
QUEENS. 137
something to do—never expecting to need them. They
may be all right, except late, and just sealed over when
the first one hatches. It is hardly possible to cut out
such an unripe cell, and get from it a good queen. Until
a queen has its shape and begins to get color, it is very
delicate and tender. The cell is twice the size necessary
to hold it, and if it is cut off, and only turned over—even
if carefully done—it falls from one side to the other, and
is bruised badly, making it a cripple, and inferior in color.
«Some of the advantages of the nucleus system may be
found in the particular care of a few points.
«©1, I want new comb for the brood, as cells can be
worked over out of that, better than from the old and
tough. New comb must be carefully handled. If none
but old, tough comb is to be had, cut the cells down to
one-fourth of an inch indepth. The knife must be sharp
to leave it smooth, and not tear it. The bees will enlarge
and turn downward such shallow cell nearly as well as on
new comb.
<2, Clean comb in condition to layin, must be given the
bees in the brood hive frequently, perhaps every day, if
rearing many queens. Look every day, so as to know
just when the queen lays in any comb. You should cut
out the brood in five or six days from the time the eggs
are laid, and be sure of queens hatching in ten or eleven
days afterward, according to the age of larve. As all the
eggs in the comb were laid within a few hours of each
other, all will mature about the same time; such cells
can be cut out and handled without injury. A colony
may be deprived of its queen, and receive a cell the next
day which will hatch in afew hours. As there are but few
brood cells given them, the nurses in proportion are even
greater than in full colonies. Remember, this is all the
brood they have to take their attention. They have just
realized their need of a queen; they have the means
placed conveniently, with space underneath ; they work
138 QUEENS.
with a will, haying no earlier or later ones to choose from,
and im three days all are sealed up.
«Compare these queens with those raised in hives full
of brood. I do not claim to get better queens, but may
I not claim as good, and more uniformly good? Just
give the nucleus an additional comb of brood of all ages
the next day, and no convenient place cut for queen cells,
and they would start but few. There are too many young
bees to be cared for, like the full stock. Many of those
started would be neglected. Have I made it clear that
nurses and brood can be economically adjusted ?
«When the young queen has commenced laying, and
has been removed, new brood can not be given to the bees
and they be expected to rear as many more queens wil-
lingly. They should have some of the cells ready made,
given them, making themselves useful in carmg for
queens until they lay. Whenever another batch of cells
is wanted, introduce another supply of nurse-bees, and
work as before.”
ANOTHER METHOD.
There is another method of rearing queens, which in
many respects I prefer to the one just described. I prac-
tice both, yet, considering all essential features, I have a
preference for frames uniform in size with those in the
hive, for all operations, as thus honey and bees can usu-
ally be more conveniently supplied. Yet, if the small
nucleus boxes are used, honey may be secured in the flush
of the season by furnishing the small frames filled with
empty comb or foundation, to these boxes, after removing
such as have been filled with honey. I have often been
able to obtain a large number of such combs well filled
and capped over, which I have saved with proper care,
until wanted for similar purposes the following season.
The full-sized frames for nuclei are preferable because
the bees used to rear the queens are of value, if swarms
QUEENS. 139
are to be built up artificially (as hereafter directed), and
are atready in the hives designated to receive such swarms.
The process of rearing queens in full colonies is as fol-
lows: Select the stock from which it is desired to secure
queen cells. Remove the queen, and place her in a hive
prepared to receive her, or use her to supply any de-
ficiency that may have occurred. The bees, finding them-
selves destitute of a queen, will proceed to construct
queen-ceils, which should be cared for as directed in this
chapter. If it is preferred to use a stock of native bees,
which are thought by some to be better nurses, remove
the queen, and take from them all the combs containing
eggs and brood, in its first stages. These combs may be
placed in hives which need strengthening, after shaking
and brushing all bees back to their own stand. Now,
take from the hive possessing the queen, whose brood you
wish to secure, such combs as contain larve of the required
age. If this hive had been supplied about six days pre-
viously with clean white worker-combs, placed in the
center of the brood-nest, it would probably contain larvee
in just the desired degree of development. Besides, when
tender combs are used, queen-cells will be more readily
started, with the chances 1n favor of a larger number.
Remove the bees from these combs, and place the latter
in the native swarm prepared for them.
It is not best to expect more than ten or twelve cells
from each hive thus arranged, yet when all the conditions
are favorable, I have sometimes had a much larger num-
ber started. If several colonies are to be prepared in this
way, it is better to do it on successive days, that the
queens may not mature so nearly at once, so that a less
number will necd care at the same time. In eight days
after the above operation, the combs may be carefully
lifted out, and the number of cells ascertamed. In some
instances they will be built so closely together, that they
can not be separated with safety to all. For instance, if
140 QUEENS.
five cells are built in a cluster, the one in the center and
two on the outside can only be saved by cutting through
the two others. During these operations, it is necessary
to handle the combs with great care, keeping them in the
same position as when in the hive, that the queens may
receive no injury.
FORMING NUCLEI.
If the queens are to be used for new swarms, arrange
the requisite number of hives in the different positions in
the apiary, that you wish the swarms to occupy. It is
my practice to purchase native bees in box hives at this
time, and transfer the combs and bees to such hives (as
directed in Chap. VII., on Transferring), giving each
nucleus one comb containing brood, and about one quart
of bees. From a good box hive I form from six to eight
nuclei. Also, I sometimes bring a colony already in mov-
able frames, from another apiary, and divide it in about
the same number of parts. In either case, the queen is
removed, and used where one is desired. These begs will
usually remain more contentedly if they are confined to
the nucleus for the first twenty-four hours.
Another practical method is to open a hive in the same
apiary, and after securing the queen, remove from it a
card containing brood as fully developed as can be deter-
mined by the looks. Place this in one of the nucleus
hives prepared, with a close fitting division board at each
side, if a hanging frame is used, or the panels with the
standing frame.*
Now, remove three or four other combs from the same
hive, and after giving them a sudden shake in front of
their own hive, to dislodge the old bees, take them to the
nucleus, and brush all the young bees that cling to them,
into it. This will usually furnish a sufficient supply of
* These division boards or panels should be used in all nuclei formed in large
hives, to economize the heat.
QUEENS. 141
bees for a nucleus. Return these last combs to their own
hive, supply the place of the one removed with a frame of
foundation or comb, and return the queen. This method
will be advisable where but one or more stocks are kept.
In this case it would not be necessary to prepare a swarm
from which to take cells. The nucleus swarm may be
allowed to construct cells, the best of which may be se-
lected. Proceed as above, with other good hives, until
the desired number is obtained. The second day after
these are formed, the cells in the hive in waiting will be
ten days old, and the most advanced be liable to hatch.
If only eggs had been furnished, from which these queens
were to be reared, they would not mature under sixteen
days from the time the egg was laid. On the evening
previous, or on the morning of the tenth day at the latest,
remove the cells with a very sharp small-bladed knife, and
place them in a box for the purpose, always handling
them with extreme care (see fig. 662). If any one of
these queens is allowed to hatch before they are cared for,
she will be likely to destroy all the
rest. This she accomplishes by
biting into the side of the cell and
stinging her helpless rival (see fig.
66d). The box should contain a
portion of cotton or wool, to make
it soft (fig. 61). If a laying queen
is at hand, she may be introduced to this stock. Now,
distribute the queen-cells among the nuclei, being sure
to place them near the cluster of bees, where they will
be protected.
I sometimes add-another empty comb to the nucleus,
and merely place the queen-cell between the two, where
it will occupy a natural position. At other times I simply
make a hole through the comb, large enough to receive
the cell, with the lower end slanting downward. I have
sometimes introduced the cells to the nuclei as soon as the
Fig. 61.—QUEEN-CELL BOX.
142 QUEENS.
latter were formed, but the bees are more liable to de-
stroy them, than when the nuclei have been establishcd
for a day or two. A
These cells given the nuclei will usually hatch during
the next four or five days. If they fail to do so, it is
best to supply them with other cells. Care must be
taken to remove any cells that may be started upon the
combs furnished these hives. Also, as the queens appear,
they should be examined to see if they are perfect in all
respects. As they are removed for various purposes, other
cells may be furnished. The queen will fly out for fer-
tilization in from four to six days from leaving the cell,
under favorable circumstances. In three or four days
after impregnation, she will usually begin to lay, when
her wing may be clipped. If she does not begin within
two weeks from the time she was hatched, I would advise
destroying her.
QUEEN NURSERY.
Dr. Jewell Davis, of Illinois, has invented what is called
a queen-nursery, designed for hatching and holding extra
queens. Its dimensions correspond with those of the
frames used, and it may be placed in a full hive for the
purposes indicated (see fig. 60).
QUEEN CAGES.
A simple and practical queen-cage is essential in every
apiary. A goodly number of them should always be on
hand, convenient for immediate use. A good one that
will meet all requirements, may be made as follows: Pro-
cure light wire-cloth, 8-mesh, or eight wires to the inch,
and cut in pieces 3 x 4'/, inches.
To shape the cage, take a piece of wood a little longer
than the width of the wire-cloth, */, in. thick, and 1’/,
in, wide. Bend the wire-cloth around this stick, which
will lap the width of one edge of the stick.
QUEENS. 4 143
For a bottom to the cage, cut a piece of wood 1’/, in.
long and */, in. square. Place this bottom in one end of
the wire-cloth shaped to receive it, and faster. with small
tacks. Ravel a wire from a piece of wire-cloth, and
weave it throngh the lap in such a way, as to fasten it
firmly, especially near the top.
The open,jend should be made of the selvedge of the
wire-cloth, or if a cut edge is used, one wire should be
ravelled out, and all the ends nicely bent back, as the
queen would be likely to receive injury while being caged,
e
a
re
ny
SPEER
samaumnadee AAR A AL
Fig. 62.—QUE=EN CAGES,
if the sharp ends of the wire projected at the edge.
Prepare a stopper to fit, which completes the cage, (fig.
62, a). If an opening is cut in the stopper, and filled
with candy, it will furnish ready food for the caged queen
at alltimes. Candy for this purpose is made by using “A”
sugar with a small proportion of flour, and a little water.
Boil it in a saucepan, stirring until it begins to grain.
Then fill the cavity in the stopper (fig. 62, 4), with this
syrup while it is warm, when it will harden. I find
these directions for making candy in the “A. B. C. of
Bee Culture,” by A. I. Root. Another form of queen-
cage may be seen in fig. 62, c. This is */, in. thick, and
will be found to be a good shipping cage.
144 QUEENS.
INTRODUCING QUEENS.
Four points are necessary to observe in introducing
queens.
1st, that the hive contains no queens or queen-
cells.
2d, that the bees are all induced to fill themselves with
honey.
3d, that the queen is pervaded with the same scent
eas the bees to which she is introduced.
4th, that she be introduced in such a manner, that she
will not be hastily met as an intruder.
A failure to meet the first requirement often results in
the loss of queens. A cell may be hidden in a sly place
and overlooked. For instance, I have known queen-cells
to be made between broken edges of transferred combs,
which were afterwards built over and concealed, so that
no indication of a queen-cell appeared. The fact that
such may be the case, favors the immediate introduction
of queens. Let us notice some extreme cases where a
queen may be present. I have removed a queen that had
a, defective leg, or that was becoming unprolific, intend-
ing to supply her place with another. It was supposed,
of course, that being the rule, that no other queen was
present ; but during the process I have noticed a cell from
which a queen had just issued; and upon further ex-
amination, have found the young queen in another part
of the hive. The mode of confining the queen for 24 or
48 hours, after the old one is removed, is often practised,
but I have known cases where a young queen has entered
such a hive during this time, and destroyed the one intro-
duced as soon as released. I mention these instances as
I have had them occur in my own experience. The pres-
ence of fertile workers often causes the loss of queens
when introduced, as the bees are less willing to receive
her at such times. The resource in such instances, is, to
QUEENS. 145
£%isn them brood from which to rear a queen, which
they will generally accept.
2d. The bees may usually be induced to fill themselves
with honey by smoking, yet it is sometimes desirable to
sprinkle them with liquid honey or syrup, forthe pur-
pose. If honey is not being gathered, the necessity for
operating when all the bees are in the hive, at morning
or evening, so that all may be induced to fill themselves,
will be evident.
3d. It has been recommended to add to the syrup or
honey some kind of essence which would give them all
the same odor. Others depend upon smoke, using to-
bacco as a preference. Whatever scent is used, both the
queen and bees should be pervaded with the same.
4th. The covering of the queen with honey or syrup
will attract the bees when she is placed among them, and
they will realize her identity as-a queen while licking her
off. I usually find rotten wood sufficient for smoke, and
the use of honey from the hive which is to receive the
queen will ordinarily afford the required similarity of odor.
Among the varied methods of introduction, that which
will allow the new queen to be introduced soonest after
the old one is removed is most desirable. IfI were to
introduce a very choice queen with the least possible
chance of losing her, I would make a stock queenless, and
leave it in that condition eight days. ‘The queen-cells
which they naturally construct should then be removed,
after smoking thoroughly, and as they would be expect-
ing a queen, and deprived of eggs or larvee from which
to rear her, they would undoubtedly be in a favorable
mood to accept her majesty. If the queen is now smeared
with honey, and placed between the frames at the top,
there is hardly a chance that she will not be accepted. If
the bees are busy collecting honey, the work may be done
at any time of day, but when honey is but sparingly
gathered, I prefer doing it after the bees stop flying at
146 QUEENS.
night. It will also be necessary to smoke them more
thoroughly at that time. Although most safe, this mode
of introducing queens is not altogether desirable. I
would prefer to lose one queen in five, and introduce as
soon as the old queen is removed, rather than leave the
hives queenless the stated time, and lose none. If it is
found necessary to change queens in hives that are being
extracted at intervals, it may be done easily and success-
fully. Ata time when the bees are gathering honey in
‘nost profusion, and the combs are frequently extracted,
the bees will be most completely demoralized, and gen-
erally gorged with honey. I have had no trouble in tak-
ing away the old queen at such times, and installing a
new one in her place. Some introduce a queen by put-
ting her in a cage, and tying a piece of thin muslin over
the open end, or by using comb for a stopper, which the
bees will bite away, and thus affect her release. Others
construct a cage of different proportions, leaving one side
open, instead of the end. Then a hole 1s made in a comb
filled with honey, by thrusting a knife through, turnmg
it around, and withdrawing it without removing any of
the comb. The queen is then confined to one side of the
comb -by placing the cage over her, and crowding 1t
against the comb. The bees will clear the opening and
release the queen. I have practised this method success-
fully, but, as a rule, I would prefer releasing her from
the cage, instead of allowihg the bees to do it. In all
cases, an examination should be made at a suitable time
to become assured of her safety.
When it is desired to Italianize native stocks, it 1s
simply necessary to remove the native queens, and intro-
duce Italians. In twenty-one days, the young Italian
bees will begin to appear, and in six or eight weeks, in
the busy season, the natives will all disappear.
QUEENS. 147
CLIPPING QUEENS’ WINGS.
This practice is thought by many to be one of the new
discoveries of the age. Mr, Langstroth tells us in his
work that it was followed in Virgil’s time, and also men-
tions an account bearing date as early as 1766, of a bee-
master in Spain who carefully clipped the wings of his
queen-bees, to prevent loss by swarming. ‘There are,
doubtless, some slight evils incident to the practice.
T am satisfied that I have had many fine queens super-
seded from the dissatisfaction of the bees with 4 queen
with this imperfection. I do not imagine, however, that
it is any real detriment to the value of the queen. There
are so many arguments in favor of the practice that I
could not relinquish it, even if it involved a much greater
loss. The chances of loss from other sources are very
much reduced, and the benefit realized in various opera-
tions, as demonstrated herein, pEONee its utility and en-
tire practicability.
THE PROCESS.
It may be done with a sharp knife, or with a pair of
scissors. If a knife is used, grasp the
queen by the forward part of the body,
and place the wing to be removed upon
a smooth surface, and cut about one
half of it away (fig. 63). If scissors
are preferred, use those with round
points, as they are less liable to in-
jure the queen, and may be more saieiy ,,
g. 63.—QUEEN WITH
carried in the pocket than sharp point- ~~ curprep wine.
ed ones. The mexpert would do better to handle the
queen by the wings.
HOW TO HANDLE A QUEEN.
To handle a queen with perfect safety to her majesty
requires some experience. Never allow the least pressure
148 QUEENS.
to come upon the abdomen. They may be often confined
in a cage, without touching with the hand. Place the
cage 1n front of her upon the comb, and with the stopper
gently induce her to enter. Jf one or more bees pass in
with her, all the better. When ready to liberate her, she
will pass from the cage to the combs without difficulty.
The form of cage described was designed with this special
point in view. The value of a good queen should ever be
borne in mind, and in all operations great care exercised,
that she does not receive injury. When they are deposit-
ing eggs most freely, they become very large and heavy,
and will sometimes drop to the ground during the manip-
ulation of the combs. To avoid this, have a cage at
hand, and confine the queen during necessary operations
with the combs, and return her when ready to close the
hive.
-AGE OF QUEENS,
The bee-keeper should keep a record of the age of all
the queens in his apiary. Some advise hanging a small
slate upon the front of each hive, and for making any
immediate record, 1t will be found very convenient. I
advise numbering each hive, and using what I call a yard-
book, devoting a page to each hive, numbered to corre-
spond. In this book, the age of the queen may be kept,
and any other tacts which it may be useful to remember.
I have kept such books for each apiary away from home,
with much satisfaction. It was our habit to visit such
apiaries once each week. I have studied the condition of
these colonies as recorded in this book, the evening before
visiting them, and found myself working much more un-
derstandingly the following day.
When one has purchased a valuable queen at much ex-
pense, or 1f one has been reared that proves to be more
than ordinarily good, the owner will be slow to destroy
her, so long as she deposits worker eggs, even though she
QUEENS. 149
becomes less prolific, until she is four or five years old ;
but for the majority of queens this will not answer. I
shall not advise retaining queens longer than three years.
Several years ago I argued at one of our ‘‘ North-Eastern
Bee-Keeper’s Conventions,” that, where bees were kept
in the old way in a hive with a small brood-chamber, and
the queen was only required to deposit a limited number
of eggs, she might be expected to remain fruitful for a
longer term of years than under the present system of
management, wherethe motto is ‘‘a large force for a large
amount of work.” For we now use every possible means
to secure the largest amount of brood, often trebling the
number of bees that would be reared in a small box-hive
with no care.
The idea was almost, if not quite, unanimously re-
jected at that time, but later experience confirms me in
the opinion that queens will fail sooner under the present
system, than with the old methods.
I consider then, that as a rule three years should be the
average limit of a queen’s age, and many will become use-
less earlier. ver have an eye to the queen, and if she
become deficient in any way, let her place be supplied
with a good one. Do not allow the bees to supersede her
themselves, which they might do to a disadvantage.
DRONE-LAYING QUEENS.
Drone-laying queens are usually such, as from any
cause, are unable to meet the drone for impregnation.
Such queens will only produce drone progeny. They
often deposit their eggs in worker combs, but as the brood
approaches maturity, the cells will be extended about '/,
in. before being capped over, which gives the surface a
rough appearance, as such brood is always somewhat
scattered (fig. 64). It requires but little experience to
recognize these indications of an imperfect queen.
150 QUEENS.
Old queens often come to this same condition. These
we term ‘spent queens.” They will deposit but few
eggs, which will pro-
duce only drones. The
judicious bee-keeper will
seldom allow his bees to
reach this state.’ I have
7 known swarms that
went into winter quar-
ters with an apparently
good queen, to come out
In spring with a drone-
QUEEN, IN WORKER-CELLS. ger and cold will reduce
a prolific queen to this condition. He and others have
exposed fertile queens to a very low temperature, and they
were afterwards unable to deposit other than drone eggs.
f) YEU.
O86, |
See)
Fig. 65.—QUEEN-CELLS OVER DRONE BROOD.
It is quite common for bees that have none but drone
eges, to try to rear a queen from them, but every such
effort is fruitless. Cells of this kind are shown 1m fig. 65.
QUELNS. 151
LOSS OF QUEENS.
A critical time for our queens is when they leave the
hive or nucleus to meet the drones. They are liable to
be caught by birds, and at times, fail to enter their own
hives on their return. This is an excellent reason for not
setting hives too closely together, and also, for using a
variety of colors in roofs or hives, to assist them in iden-
tifying their own homes. An examination should be
made at the proper time to ascertain if the queen has
safely returned.
INDICATIONS OF LOSS.
The next morning after a loss of this kind has occurred,
and occasionally at evening, the bees may be seen running
to and fro in the greatest consternation on the outside.
Some will fly off a short distance, and return; one will
run to another, and then to another, still in hopes, no
doubt, of finding their lost queen. A hive, close by, will
probably receive a portion, and will seldom resist an ac-
cession under such circumstances. Al] this will be going
on while other hives are quiet. Towards the middle of
the day, the confusion will be less marked ; but the next
morning it will be exhibited again, though not so plainly,
and will cease after the third, when they become appar-
ently reconciled to their fate. They will continue their
labors as usual, bringing in pollen and honey. Here I
am obliged to differ with writers, who tell us that all
Jabor will now cease. I hope the reader will not be de-
ceived: by supposing that the collection of pollen is an
infallible indication of the presence of a queen. Ican
assure him if is not always the case.
When such conditions are noticed, it is well to exam-
ine the hive to see if a queen can be found. Or, if the
bee-keeper is mexperienced in finding queens, he may
mark the date, and after a day or two has passed, look for
152 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
queen-cells, and if any are found, containing larvae,
it will indicate the absence of the queen. Additional
evidence is furnished by the absence of eggs in the brood-
combs. The necessity for keeping colonies supplied with
queens, and the means therefor, are indicated in the
chapter on ‘‘ Increase.”
MORE THAN ONE QUEEN IN A HIVE.
While it is a rule that each colony will contain but one
queen, there will occasionally be exceptions. As men-
tioned in regard to introducing queens, I have had proof
of these exceptions in my own experience. We have also
the testimony of others to the same effect. J knew an
instance where the old queen was allowed to remain with
the young one until they were put in winter quarters. Mr.
Ira Barber, of this State, had two queens in one hive
during the latter part of the season, which were wintered
together. I mention these instances to show that many
of the habits of the bee may be sufficiently uniform to
constitute a rule, yet it is hardly wise to consider them
invariable.
CHAPTER IX,
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
NATURAL INCREASE.
Good bee-keepers differ widely upon this subject.
Many claim that no method of increase can equal natural
swarming, but it has become a conviction with most, if
not all, intelligent bee-keepers, that there is a wiser way
than to allow unrestricted natural swarming. Let us
notice the condition of a hive, previous to, and during
the swarming interval. For several days before the issue
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 153
of the swarm, the queen matures but a limited number
of eggs, becoming reduced in size nearly to that of a
virgin queen, in order to be able to fly out with the
swarm, and upon the day of swarming, even the worker
bees are comparatively idle. Now, if second and third
swarms are allowed to issue, these hindrances are multi-
plied. The 2nd will issue 8 or.9 days after the first, and
the 3d, about 3 days later. In about 18 days from the
date of the first swarm, a young queen will become fertile,
and ready to commence laying. Thus it will be seen
that the colony has been destitute of a laying queen, for,
at least 18 days, at a season when a large working force
of bees is especially valuable. Allowing a deficiency of
1,000 eggs per day, which is a very moderate estimate for
a prolific queen, it would make a difference of 18,000 bees.
In regions like California, where the swarming season
occurs before the general honey yield, swarms may be in-
creased, and brought to a condition to store honey rapidly
before the general harvest begins. There too, the increase
may be profitably large, with a proportionate gain in sur-
plus. But in our latitude, where the duration of the
yield is comparatively short, and the swarming season is
simultaneous with it, a different system must be pursued.
A fact to be borne in mind at all times, is, that. much
better proportionate results are reached, in strong colo-
nies, than when the bulk of bees is less. This is, of course,
subject to limitation. It is trae in the quantity of honey
they will gather in summer, and consume in winter, in
the amount of brood they will rear, as well as in rapidity
of wax-secretion, and comb-building. Besides, they have
but one set of combs, and one entrance to protect against
their enemies.
The motto adopted by all progressive writers, ‘‘ Keep
all colonies strong,” is one of the fundamental princi-
ples of success. To this I would add, ‘Hach colony
should at all times possess a laying queen.” As this can
154 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
not be the case, when swarms are allowed to issue natur-
ally, the deduction is, that this course is not productive
of best results. Yet, as there are very many who will
continue to follow this system of management, until
they more fully appreciate the advantages to be gained by
changing it, I shall give some space to Mr. Quinby’s di-
rections concerning natural swarming.
In the previous editions of this work, as well as in all
books upon the subject up to the present day, this has
been considered as one of the most interesting topics to
be discussed. With his usual attention to minute details,
Mr. Quinby gave very profuse instructions for all possi-
ble emergencies, but I shall only make such quotations
as are most essential for beginners, and those who have
not come to practice the most advanced modes of increase
of colonies.
WHEN SWARMING COMMENCES,
The swarming season in this latitude sometimes com-
mences May 15th, and at other times July Ist. It usu-
ally ends about the 15th of the latter month. I have
‘known two seasons in Montgomery Co., N. Y., when
swarms continued to issue throughout the entire summer,
beginning in May and ending August 25th, with no in-
terval of more than a week without swarms. One of
these, 1863, was wet, and the flowers yielded but little
honey. The native bees sent out about one-third the
usual number of swarms, while the Italians continued. to
swarm for three months. They did not store much more
honey than others, but they must have collected more to
feed the greater quantities of brood which they reared.
Rather than be idle when the yield was scanty, they col-
lected material, made combs, reared brood, and sent out
swarms ; and at the end of the season the colonies were
as strong, and had as much honey as the natives, which
had not swarmed.
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 155
The bee-keeper who thinks much of his bees will, of
course, Wish to see and hive his swarms as they issue. If
neglected, for even a short time after they cluster, they
will often relieve themselves from such protection, and
seek the shelter of some old tree in the woods. Without
some knowledge of the indications of swarms, we often
watch vainly for weeks, remaining at home, and perhaps
neglecting important business in the fruitless expectation
that the ‘‘ bees will swarm.” External appearances are
not to be depended on. Very early swarms often issue
before clustering out; also, they very often cluster out
without swarming. It is necessary to look inside the
hive for reliable indications.
INDICATIONS OF SWARMING.
To a novice, this operation is apparently formidable.
But with protection for the face, and the aid of a smoker,
the magnitude of the performance is greatly diminished,
and will grow less with every repetition. The hives
should be examined in the middle of the day. Lift out
the frames, and look for queen-cells. If there are none
containing eggs or larve, or none with thin, smooth
walls, evidently just begun, there is not much prospect
of a swarm for several days. But if any cells contain eggs,
or larvz nearly ready to seal over, or are actually enclosed,
we know at once what to expect. When sealed over, the
swarm will probably issue the next day. This is at the
beginning of the swarming season. If at or near the
close we examine again, and find the queen-cells de-
stroyed, we conclude that they are done swarming.
I have found the requisites for all regular swarms to
be something like this. The combs must be crowded
with bees ; they must contain a numerous brood advanc-
ing from the egg to maturity, and the bees must be ob-
taining honey either from flowers or artificial- sources. *
*To these I would add scarcity of room for brood.
‘
156 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
A surplus of bees in a searcity of honey is insufficient to
bring out the swarm, neither will plenty of honey suffice,
without the bees and brood. The period of proper dura-
tion in which all these conditions exist will vary in differ-
ent stocks, and many times does not occur at all during
the season.
PREPARATIONS FOR SWARMING.
Queen-cells are about one-third done when they receive
the eggs ; as these eggs hatch into larve, others are be-
gun, and receive eggs at different periods for several days
paucese
ye oh
ae )
Fig. 66.—CcLUSTER OF QUEEN-CELLS.
a, a, a, Size of the cell when the egg is deposited , 6, Finished cel! ; c, Cel! from
which a mature queen has issued; d, Cell in which the queen has been de-
stroyed by arival and removed by the workers ; e, Queen-cell cut from the comb.
later. The number of such cells seems to be governed
by the prosperity of the bees; when the family is large,
and the yield of honey abundant, they may construct
twenty, at other times not more than two or three, al-
though several such cells may remain empty. When
there is nothing precarious about the supply of honey,
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 157
the sealing of these cells indicates the first swarm, which
will generally issue on tho first fair day after one or more
are finished.
WHICH BEES COMPOSE Tic SWARM.
It is probable that no rule governs the issno of the
workers. Old and young come out promiscuously. A
great many old bees may be seen in late swarms, with
wings so worn as to be unable to fly with the load of
honey which they attempt to carry. That young bees
leave, any one may be satisfied on sceing a swarm issue.
A great many, too young and weak to fly, will drop down
in front of the hive, having come out now for the first
time, perhaps not an hour out of the cell; these very
young bees may be known by their color. That these
may creep back to the hive, is another inducement to set
it near the ground. The old queen often gets down in
the same way, but her burden of eggs is probably the
cause of her inability to fly. That the old queen leaves
with the first swarm is co easily proved with the movablc-
comb hive, that it is unnecessary to occupy several pages
in demonstrating it. After the swarm has left, you have
only to examine the combs to be assured that she is no-
where in the hive. ‘The absence of eggs in the celis is
other proof.
We will now suppose that some of your colonies are
ready to send out swarms, and will also presume that the
empty hives for the reception of swarms are in readiness.
To prepare a hive after the swarm has issued indicates
bad management; negligence here argues negligence
elsewhere ; it is one of the premonitions of “‘ bad luck.”
IMMEDIATE INDICATIONS OF A SWARM.
When the day is fair, and there is not too much wind,
first swarms generally issue from 10 A. mM. until 3 Pp. x.
158 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE,
The first outside indications will be an unusual number of
bees about the entrance from one to sixty minutes before
they start. The utmost confusion prevails, bees running
about in all directions. When first rising from the hive,
they describe circles of but few feet, but as they recede,
they spread over an area of several rods. Their move-
ments are much slower than usual. In a few moments,
thousands may be seen revolving in every possible direc-
tion. When all are out of the hive, or soon after, some
branch of a tree or bush is usually selected on which to clus-
ter. In less than half a minute after the spot is indicated,
they are gathered in the immediate vicinity, and all clus-
ter in a body, from five to ten minutes after leaving the
hive. They should now be hived immediately, as they
show impatience if left long, especially in the sun; also,
if another stock should send out a swarm while they
were hanging there, they would be quite sure to unite.
HOW TO HIVE THEM.
It makes but little difference in what way they are put
in the hive, providing they are all made to go in. If
there is nothing in the way, lay the bottom board on the
ground, make it level, set the hive on it, and place a wide
board before it. Cut off the branch on which the bees
are hanging, if it can be done as well as not, and shake
them off in front of the hive; a portion will discover it
and will at once commence a vibration of their wings,
which seems to be a call for the others. A great many
are apt to stop about the entrance, thereby nearly or quite
closing it, and preventing others from going in. You can
expedite their progress by gently disturbing them with a
stick or quill, When gentle means will not induce them
to enter in a reasonable time, and they appear obstinate,
a little water sprinkled on them will greatly facilitate
operations, or they may be readily driven in by the use
of the smoker.
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 159
When they cluster on a branch that you do not wish to
cut off, arrange the bottom-board as before directed, then
turn a box bottom up directly under the main part of the
cluster, and if you have an assistant, let him jar the
branch sufticiently to dislodge the bees; most of them
will fall directly into the box. If no assistant is at hand,
strike the under side of the branch with the box, and
when the bees have fallen in, empty them on the board.
I have gone up a ladder twenty feet high, got the bees
in this way, and backed down without difficulty.
A basket or large tin pan may be taken up the ladder
instead of the hive, from which the bees can be readily
emptied before it. But very few will fly out in coming
down. If you succeed in getting nearly all the bees at
the first effort, merely shaking the branch will be suffi-
cient to prevent the remainder from alighting, which will
turn their attention below, where those which have al-
ready found a hive will be doing their best to call them.
Swarms will sometimes alight in places where it is im-
possivle to jar them off, as on a large limb, or trunk of
atrec. At such times place the hive near, as first direct-
ed, and dip them off with a large tin dipper.* When you
get the queen in, there will be no trouble with the re-
mainder, even if there are many left. As soon as they
ascertain that the queen is not among them, they will
manifest it by their uncasy movements.
They will soon leave and join those in the hive, or if
the queen is yet on the tree, even if there be but a dozen
with her, those in the hive will leave and cluster again.
Tn all cases they must all be made to enter, and when all
are in, except a few that will be flying, carry the hive at
once to the stand it is to occupy, and protect them well
from the rays of the sun with a good roof. The reasons
for immediately removing the swarm to the stand, are,
* Dipping is praferable to brushing with a wing or broom, as the latter irritates
them excecdin ly.
160 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
that they are generally more convenient to watch in case
they are disposed to leave, and many bees can be saved.
All that leave the hive, mark the location the same as in
spring. Several hundreds will probably leave the first
day, a few, several times. When removed at night to the
permanent stand, such will return to the stand of the pre-
vious day, and are generally lost ; whereas, if they are re-
moved at once, this loss is avoided.
Those that are left flying at the time, return to the old
stock ; those that return from the swarm the next day
will not always do this. Bees will seldom leave for the
woods when put in clean hives, and kept cool. The rank
smell of fresh paint is offensive to them, and dark col-
ored hives are often intolerably hot.*
EMERGENCIES.
We will now return to the issuing of the swarms.
There will be some cmergencies to provide for, and some
exceptions to notice. If we keep many colonies, the
chances are that two or more may issue at one time; and
when they do, they will nearly always cluster together.
It is plain that the greater the number of colonies, the
more such chances are multiplied. We can, if we are
watchful, often prevent the issue of more than one at a
time. This depends in a great measure on our knowl-
edge of indications. It is well to know by previous ex-
amination, which hives have made preparations for swarm-
ing, and as soon as one has begun to issue, look at all the
rest that are in condition to swarm; or, what is much
better, look before any have started. Even if nothing
unusual is perceived about the entrance, examine the
boxes. If the bees there are all quiet as usual, no swarm
need be immediately apprehended, and you will probably
have time to hive one or two without interruption.
* A card of brood from another hive, given toa swarm newly-hived, will usually
induce them to remain when discontented,
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 161
But should you discover the bees running to and fro in
great commotion, although quict at the entrance, you
should lose no time in sprinkling those outside with water.
They will instantly enter the hive to avoid the apprehend-
ed shower. In half an hour they will be ready to start
again, during which time the others may be secured.
When any of the subsequent swarms are disposed to
unite with those already hived, throw a sheet over to keep
them out. An assistant is very useful at such times; one
can watch symptoms, and detain the swarms, while an-
other hives them. Occasionally, when waiting for aswarm
to start, two may do so simultaneously. Whenever a part
was already on the wing, I never succeeded in retarding
the issue; it is then useless to try to drive or coax them
back. To succeed, the means must be applied before any
part of the swarm leaves. Two or more swarms will clus-
ter together and not quarrel, if put into one hive.
SEPARATING SWARMS.
Spread a sheet on the ground, shake tho bees upon the
center of it, and set an empty hive each side of the mass ;
if too many are disposed to enter one hive, set it farther
off. They should be made to enter rapidly. There are
even chances of getting a queen in cach hive. The hives
should now be placed twenty feet apart ; if cach has a
queen, the bees will remain quiet, and the work is done ;
but, if not, the bees in the one destitute will-soon mani-
fest it by running about in all directions, and when the
queen cannot be found, will leave for the other hive, where
there are doubless two; a few going ata time. In this
case set the queenless portion one side, turn the remain-
der out upon the sheet, and let them enter as before, keep-
ing watch for the queens, which indeed should be borne
in mind from the beginning. As the number of bees
is much lessened, the chances of sseing the queen are
162 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
good. When one is found, secure her, and put with those
without one. Should you fail to find a queen, and be
unable to make a division in consequence, or resolve to
let them remain together, it is unnecessary to put them
in any larger hive than usual; but boxes should be
immediately put on, which should be changed for empty
ones, as fast as they are filled.
SWARMS RETURNING TO THE OLD HIVE.
Occasionally a swarm will issue, and in a few minutes
return to the old stock. The most common cause is the
inability of the old queen to fly, on account of her burden
of eggs, or imperfect wings. I have sometimes, after the
swarm had returned, found the queen near the hive, and
put her back; and the next day she would come out
again, and fly without difficulty, probably having dis-
charged some of her eggs.
Sometimes a swarm will issue and return three or four
days in succession, but this may generally be remedied, as
i is often owing to some inability of the queen ; and she
may frequently be found while the swarm is leaving, out-
side the hive, unable to fly. In such circumstances, have
a queen cage ready and secure her as soon as she appears.
Get the empty hive for the swarm, and a large cloth, and
put down a bottom-board a few feet from the stock. The
swarm is sure to come back, and the first bees that alight
on the hive will set up the call. As soon as you perceive
this, lose no time in setting the old stock on the board at
one side, covering it with the cloth. Put the new one in
its place on the stand, and the queen in it; in a few min-
utes the swarm will be in the new hive, when it can be
removed and the old one replaced.
AFTER-SWARMS,
After-swarms are all that issue after the first, called
second, third, etc., for convenience. Whenever, in a
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 163
prosperous season, the first swarm is not kept back by
foul weather, the first of the young queens in the old
colony is ready to emerge from the cell in seven or eight
days. The second swarm may be expected in about two
days thereafter. On the morning of that day, or the
evening previous, by putting your car close to the hive,
and listening attentively a few minutes, you will hear a
distinct piping noise like the word ‘‘ peep,” uttered several
times in succession, and followed by an interval of silence.
Two or more may be heard at the same time ; one will be
shrill and fine, another hoarse, short, and quick. These
notes are probably never heard except when the hive con-
tains a plurality of queens. I never failed to hear it,
previous to any after-swarm, whenever I listened.
PREVENTING AFTER-SWARMS.
A very decided improvement in practice, for those who
have hitherto allowed their bees to swarm at will, is to
permit but one swarm to issue. As this will, in an aver-
age season, give a satisfactory increase, and furnish more
or less surplus, it will, to many, prove a desirable method.
I shall therefore give directions for preventing after-
swarms. When the first swarm issues, hive it as just de-
scribed. Twenty-four hours later, open the hive from
which it came, and remove all the queen-cells. Smoke
the bees thoroughly, and introduce a laying queen, as di-
rected in Chap. VIII. Examine the hive a few days later,
to ascertain if the queen has been accepted, when, if no
queen-cells. have been overlooked, swarming will usu-
ally be ended for the season.
Another method which I prefer, is to prepare a nucleus,
as elsewhere mentioned, in the hive which is to receive
the swarm. With this method, the queens should first
have their wings clipped. When the swarm starts, go to
the hive, and watch for the queen. Her wing being
164 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE,
clipped, she cannot fly, and can easily be found. Put her
in a queen cage, a supply of which should always be at
hand. As soon as the bees have all issued, remove the
old hive from the stand and.put a new one in its place,
covering it with the same roof, to identify the spot, and
place the caged queen at the entrance. Carry the old
hive to the stand occupied by the nucleus, and put it in
its place. Open the nucleus, find and cage the queen,
and place her in the old hive between two combs. Next
shake all the bees from the nucleus in front of this hive,
and take these combs to the old stand, and if the work
has been done so quickly that the swarm has not yet com-
menced to return, place these combs at the center, or,
better, alternate them with empty combs. As the swarm
returns, release the queen, and permit her to enter with
the rest. The queen in the other hive may be liberated
the next day. Care must be observed that the bees do
not enter adjacent hives, which will frequently happen.
Several light sheets should always be at hand to spread
over such hives as they may attempt to enter.
When bees leave the hive in swarming, they seem to
relinquish all claims to the old location. I have known
them to enter several adjoining hives. ‘They are usually
readily accepted at such times, as they are filled with
honey. The practice of clipping the queen’s wings, and
hiving swarms thus, is advoeated by some, for the assign-
ed reason that if several swarms issue at the same time,
they would separate and return to their respective hives,
thus saving much trouble. With this, my experience
does not coincide, particularly if the bees attempt to
alight, which two or more swarms together are much
more likely todo. Such are quite apt to all return to one
hive, and usually to one of those from which they issued,
yet these too, will often scatter, and enter different hives.
This I offer as an objection to this plan. As it is essen-
tially the same in result as the first method suggested in
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 165
‘« Artificial Increase,” I adviso those who can do so, not
to allow them to fly.
Irecommend these latter methods, for those who feel in-
competent to judge of the proper time to make swarms.
In the latter case, the occurrence of swarming determines
the period for the operation, while in the former, the
bee-keeper must select the colony, and uso his discretion
as to whether it is in condition to furnish a swarm. By
observing the indications of the queen cells, it is easily seen
if a swarm will soon be ready, and it may be made arti-
ficially, thus avoiding the annoyances mentioned as occur-
ring when they are allowed to issue in the natural way.
ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
Those who wish to increase their colonics by the best
methods, and avoid the perplexities of natural swarming,
will do so by dividing, or as otherwise termed, making
artificial swarms. It is impossible to state the precise
date when this increase can be most profitably made, as it
will vary in different seasons and localities, as well as in
individual stocks in the same apiary. Increase in quan-
tity of bees, should at all times be borne in mind, but
when it is wise to increase swarms, is quite another matter.
I maintain that it is never best to divide, until all weak
colonies have been built up to a proper standard, by tak-
ing brood from stronger ones. If the bee-keeper is so
fortunate as to possess none but good swarms, he may add
combs from time to time, so that, at the proper period
for boxing, or dividing, there may be a larger umber of
combs spared from the old stock. Often it is more de-
sirable to occupy the colonies to the best advantage in
this way, than to increase them earlier. When colonies
are populous, and honey plenty, it is safe to divide.
There are various practicable methods, but after careful
trial, I shall advise but two. The first is this: In the
middle of a fine day, when the bees are busy at work,
166 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
place a new hive near the colony to be divided. Open
the old hive, smoke the bees slightly, take from it six
frames without shaking the bees from them, and place
them in the new hive. Leave the two center combs in
the old hive, as well as the old queen. Fill the empty
space with frames of empty worker combs, or foundation.
Remove the new hive to another part of the apiary, where
a hive has been arranged as hitherto explained, with one
or two combs, a few bees, and a laying queen. Cage the
quecn, smoke these bees thoroughly, and place the six
combs taken from the old hive in this one. Put the
caged queen between two combs in such a position that
she will have access to sealed honey, smoke all well, and
close the hive. Twenty-four hours after, open it, using
smoke, and liberate the queen.
Mr. H. Alley, of Wenham, Mass., one of the most
successful queen breeders in the country recommends
smoking with tobacco, when uniting bees, and introduc-
ing queens. While I do not approve of the use of tobacco
smoke as a rule, I appreciate the benefit of having the bees
pervaded with the same scent, and also of their being
more completely subdued for the time. If the nucleus
has not been prepared beforehand, to supply the laying
queens, one may be purchased, and the swarm be made
ready on her reception. This mode of increase indicates
that each strong colony may with safety furnish one good
swarm, in ordinarily favorable seasons, and many times,
the new colony formed, as well as the old one, may each
give yet another.
But in view of the lack of uniformity in the seasons,
some being so poor, as in 1869, that not even the very
best stocks are able to secure food for brood-rearing—the
second mode is much preferable, as it is equally practica-
ble whether the increase is to be extensive or limited, os
desired, or as the yield may warrant.
It is premised that a number of hives to receive swarms
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 167
have been prepared as nuclei, and each contains one or
two combs with a queen, and a small quantity of bees.
When the colony becomes populous, and honey is gath-
ered freely, a comb containing sealed brood may be re-
moved, and replaced with empty comb or foundation.
Shake the bees from this frame in front of the hive, al-
lowing such young bees as cling to it to remain, and
make room for it in a nucleus by moving the division
board farther to one side. If the weather continues favor-
able, examine the old colony two or three days later, and
if the last comb added is found to be filled with eggs
and honey, another comb of brood may be removed
and added to the nucleus. If there are several stocks
from which increase is to be made, a comb may be taken
from each simultaneously ; but if six or seven are thus
taken at one time, and united to fill a hive where a queen
and but few bees are in waiting, the queen should be first
caged, and the old bees carried with the combs, instead
of being shaken off as before directed, as a larger quantity
of bees than the nucleus contains will be required to
cover and care for so much brood. Always be sure that
the queen is not on the combs thus removed. In a few
days after this colony is formed, another may be made
from the same stocks. The queen should be released in
twenty-four hours after the swarm is made, always using
smoke freely at such times. The advantages of this
method are apparent. If honey-gathering should sud-
denly cease, as sometimes happens, no partly filled hives
will be on hand, as when all but one or two combs are
taken from the old hive. I recall one occasion when I
divided several colonies in May, giving each part four
combs and four empty frames. Bad weather supervened,
and in fact little honey was gathered during the entire
summer, and I was obliged to unite the divided colonies
to bring them to a proper condition for winter.
168 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE,
STRAIGHT COMBS.
A consideration worthy of notice in regard to the
frames filled with new combs during these operations, is,
that if the new one be built between two that are true
and straight, it must itself be perfectly straight. Fre-
quently, where several frames are filled with foundation,
the cells in one will be built longer at the top than those
on the one opposite, making them fit less exactly when
their position ischanged. This plan of dividing is recom-
mended as efficacious in preventing the desire to swarm.
CONTROLLING SWARMING.
Many bee-keepers prefer surplus honey to increase of
stocks. This is often the case with those who keep but
one or two swarms, to supply honey for home use. Those
who pursue bee-keeping for profit, in sections where the
honey yield is brief in duration, find that, as a rule, the
less increase made, the greater the gain in surplus. But
in other sections, where the yield is prolonged, it fre-
quently happens that stocks may be doubled, and more
honey secured from each of the two, than would have
been produced by the old stock, with a gain of the new
colony besides. As the apiarian can not know in ad-
vance what the duration of the honey harvest will be, we
who have short seasons must practice a system of man-
agement which is suggested by the idea that the less in-
crease the better, provided the desire to swarm is con-
trolled.
NON-SWARMING HIVES.
With this idea in view, many hives have been devised
and devices suggested, all of which have been partial fail-
ures. Probably the New Quinby Hive attains this end as
nearly as any, but it has never been claimed to be a com-
plete non-swarming hive. It3 facility for furnishing
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 169
abundant box-room when limiting the number of frames,
constitutes its chief merit in this direction. The ability
to control the desire to swarm will be found in the meth-
ods to be practised, rather than in any particular form
of hive or mechanical device.
METHODS.
It is evident that swarming may be prevented, and yet
the course pursued be very unsatisfactory. For instance,
a colony that had made fine progress in boxes, became
very populous, and attempted to swarm. I cut out all
queen-cells, and removed the queen. Now, I certainly
was master of the situation, as they did not attempt to
swarm again, until nine days later. But the amount of
work done in storing honey during this period, was incon-
siderable. The bees clung to the ‘hive, seemingly waiting
until a queen could be reared to lead ont aswarm. On
the ninth day I again removed queen-cells, and introduced.
a young, prolific queen, with clipped wing. I closed the
hive, and walked to another part of the yard, when I
turned and saw the swarm issuing. I caught the queen
as she came out, and caged her.
Knowing that it would be undesirable to let them re-
turn to the old hive, I removed it to a distant stand and
put a new hive in its place, to which they might return.
This hive was furnished with empty frames, and the
young queen again given them. An hour later they made
another attempt, this time with the evident purpose of
leaving the vicinity, but finding that the queen did not
accompany them, again returned. I mention this in-
stance to show the necessity of action before the desire to
swarm is developed. I think the experience of many will
coincide with my own, that, as a rule, if hives are prop-
erly ventilated and shaded, with plenty of room for sur-
plus, and openings to boxes free and immediate, and am-
8
170 NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE.
ple space afforded the queen to deposit eggs, the impulse
to swarm will usually be held in check. Colonies with
young queens are not so apt to endeavor to swarm. For
ten years past I have extracted honey largely, taking it
by the ton each season (excepting 1869), and I have never
had a stock attempt to swarm which was extracted reg-
ularly each week. This indicates some of the conditions
necessary to control the tendency to swarm. But where
hives are boxed, the problem is a more perplexing one.
DEPRIVING OF A QUEEN.
There is a practice advocated which is based upon the
fixed principle that a swarm will not issue, and found a
new colony, without a queen. Consequently, if a hive is
made queenless at the beginning of the swarming season,
no swarm can issue until another queen is in some way
supplied. If, on the ninth day after the queen is taken
away, all queen-cells are removed, the brood will be so
far advanced that other queens cannot be reared, and the
colony will remain destitute until the apiarian supplies
the deficiency.
I have practised this method to quite an extent, but
there are such evident disadvantages in it, that I cannot
recommend its general adoption, at least, by the inexpe-
rienced. Under suitable circumstances, there are benefits
to be derived from it by the skilful apiarian, where sev-
eral apiaries are located at a distance, and absolute con-
trol of each swarm is important, without the necessity of
constant supervision. Another point in its favor is, that
swarms can be controlled with less labor.
SUGGESTIONS,
Were I to have an apiary under my immediate super-
vision, and desire to obtain the best possible yield of
honey, in sections like Central New York, I should al-
NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL INCREASE. 171
low no increase of swarms. I would select the best half
of my stocks for boxing, as from such, box-honey must
be secured, and extract from the remainder, observing
the rule to ‘“‘keep each hive supplied with a laying
queen.” In removing cards of brood from those that
were boxed, and replacing them with foundation, to pre-
vent swarming, I would furnish them to the hives being
extracted. This plan will be found satisfactory in sea-
sons when the yield is light. If, in a productive season a
moderate increase is wanted, the last course recommended
in Artificial Increase, should be adopted. Just the num-
ber of combs that should be taken from each colony, and
the frequency of the operation, to prevent swarming, will
depend materially upon circumstances, and demand some
experience and close observation. The rule is, that an
incomplete comb must occupy the center, directly in front
of the entrance.
Occasionally, a refractory colony will persist in a per-
tinacious attempt toswarm. I have often met this emer-
gency by changing its place at mid-day, when all were work-
ing rapidly, with one that was being extracted. If there
is no such colony, and a light one is found that does not
take possession of the boxes, I exchange with that, often
benefiting both. Remember always, that this must not
be done, except during rapid honey-gathering, as it would
endanger the safety of the queen. At other than such
times it may become necessary to remove larger quanti-
ties of brood from such colonies, and supply empty combs
or foundation. Otherwise, it is sometimes well to remove
the boxes, and furnish combs for extracting.
HINTS FOR EXCEPTIONAL SEASONS.
Four scasons ago (1875) our honey harvest was very
short; swarming was decidedly unprofitable. Usual-
ly but one swarm issued, and in such instances both
172 BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY.
old and new swarms scarcely stored enough honey for
winter. In my own apiary I prevented all swarming, and
in some cases, used cards of brood from one swarm to
build up others. This was simply making one aid in fit-
ting the other to gather surplus, that could not be other-
wise secured during such an unfavorable period. The
thoughtful bee-keeper may often turn such meager yields
to profitable account by skilful and judicious manage-
ment. If, by a little forethought and study, even one-
half the usual amount be secured, the demand is increased
by the scarcity, and the price is proportionally better, so
that the income will not be so much reduced as may be
supposed. It might be well indeed to diminish the num-
ber of colonies in such emergencies, by uniting, and thus
increase the working capacity of a less number to marked
advantage.
CHAPTER X.
BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY.
PUTTING ON BOXES.
There is no operation connected with the care of bees
that requires more experience and careful observation,
than that of putting on and taking off boxes; for, to de-
cide upon the precise time when boxes are needed, in-
volves a nicety of judgment which long experience only
can give. The proper date for supplying boxes will vary
with the climate, strength of colonies, and yield of honey.
While yet inexperienced I made serious mistakes in plac-
ing boxes upon my hives too early in the season. In this
immediate section, the time when boxes will usually be
needed upon the best swarms, occurs soon after raspberry |
and clover begin to bloom. If, before the opening of the
BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY. 1738
above mentioned blossoms, swarms are populous enough
to occupy boxes, I find it advantageous to take cards of
brood from them and exchange for empty combs in
weaker swarms. Or, when there are facilities for adding
an indefinite number of frames, as with the Quinby hive,
I occasionally add an empty comb to the center of the
brood-nest, which the queen will soon fill with eggs ; and
in this way increase the force of working bees. I fre-
quently add combs from time to time in this manner, un-
til I have 10 or 12 frames containing brood in very many
hives.
As six combs are all that the hive requires when boxed, I
remove all above that number, leaving only such as are well
filled with brood, and then arrange the boxes in place.
These surplus combs are of value in dividing colonies for
increase, or for adding to hives designed for extracting,
as directed in Chap. XI. If done at the proper time, the
brood-chamber being diminished in size, and the remain-
ing combs filled with maturing brood, the bees will at
once enter the boxes and- commence storing honey. If
we desire box-honey to present the most attractive ap-
pearance, it is essential that the boxes shall not be fur-
nished until the bees are ready to begin work at once, and
will fill them rapidly. If they are on too long before-
hand, the bees are apt to round off the unfinished edges
of the guide combs, and are more reluctant to begin work
upon them. The number of boxes required will depend
upon the strength of the colony and amount of forage.
It is quite important that the bee-keeper can estimate the
probable duration of the honey yield, as it draws to a
close. When the first set of boxes is removed, they may
be replaced with empty ones, but great care should be
exercised not to add too many. It is quite a common
error, even with experienced apiarians, to add boxes so
late in the season as to be obliged to remove them when
but partly filled, and badly soiled. These unfinished
174 BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY.
combs are of valuc as guides in boxes the ensuing season,
They may be removed from the boxes, the capping cut,
and the honey taken out with the extractor. The bees
should be allowed to have access to them, that they may
remove all honey adhering to the cells. These combs
need to be protected from dirt and dust. I advise, how-
ever, that but a limited number of boxes be placed upon
the hive, that all may be filled, and then devote the re-
mainder of the season to securing new combs in the body
of the hive, for use as guides. When built in frames they
may be more readily extracted, and the soiling of boxes
avoided. Or, if an extra supply of combs is desired,
foundation may be furnished for the bees to build out for
future use. If this is not desirable, empty combs may be
a‘lded for extracting, or to be filled and reserved for the
following season’s operations, as suggested in the Chapter
on Extracting. It is, of course, profitable to prolong their
work in boxes, as long as they will complete them hand-
somely.
I usually put the first set of boxes on the top of the
hive, and when partly filled, remove them to one side of
the combs, and place a fresh set at the top. If the swarm
is strong, and the flow of honcy continues, these may be
put at the other side in like manner, and the top refilled.
If only a top-boxing hive is used, the first set may be
raised before completion, and empty ones placed beneath,
with holes in both top and bottom, to permit the free pas-
sage of the bees. With swarming restricted, I have had
thirty-two five-pound boxes upon several hives, in the en-
tire number of which bees were so freely at work as to
complete twenty-four of them at nearly the same time.
Do not entertain the idea that all swarms will gather
such amounts. It will frequently occur that some
swarms will not occupy all the boxes furnished, or they
may discontinue work before they are completed. These
may often be removed, and given to such colonies as will
BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY. 1%5
be likely to finish them. Many bee-keepers meet this
emergency by feeding extracted honey of good quality
very freely, thus stimulating the bees to renewed exer-
tion. Directions on this point will be found in the Chap-
ter on Feeding.
One of the prime essentials in boxing is ease of access
from the body of the hive. It is true, that when boxes
are very accessible, the queen will at times enter them,
and deposit eggs therein, yet the advantages of this prox-
imity are so great that this objection is more than coun-
terbalanced. Where but few brood-cells appear, they may
be removed, but if nearly filled with brood, the boxes
should be placed where the bees may hatch and enter the
hive. The honey-board as mentioned in connection with
the use of two-comb boxes should not be more than ‘/,
in. thick. One reason why so little box-honey can be
secured from box-hives, lies in the fact that the bees must
pass through holes in the top of the hive, which is gen-
erally an inch thick.
REMOVING BOXES.
All boxes should be promptly removed as soon as full.
Thus the boxes will not be soiled, and the delicate white-
ness of the combs will be unsullied by the frequent pass-
ing of the bees over them. I prefer to perform the oper-
ation in the middle of the day, for they then contain the
fewest bees, but it may be done at any time. Place the
box near the entrance of the hive, and tap it gently a few
times, when the bees will usually all leave it. If any
bees are indisposed to leave, and there are large numbers
of boxes to be cared for, they may be arranged in a pile,
so that all bees can escape, in a closed room, and a caged
queen placed in a nucleus box among them, when they
will all gather with the queen. In bringing home large
quantities of box-honey from apiaries away from home, I
have often in this manner preserved bees that lack of
176 BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY.
time would not allow me to remove before leaving the
yard. These may be utilized by making a nucleus for
queen-rearing, or strengthening some weak stock. With
the section box that is not glassed before being filled,
there is little trouble in removing the bees, as they may
be easily shaken or brushed off. The smoker is particu-
larly serviceable in these various operations with boxes.
CARE OF BOX HONEY.
At this busy season, when the time of the bee-keeper is
so wholly occupied, the honey must be cared for as
quickly as possible, and placed where it may remain until
it is to be prepared for market. As each box is taken
from the hive, it should be examined to ascertain if any
cells contain bee-bread. Such boxes should be kept by
themselves, where they may be looked to frequently, as
moth-worms are much more liable to be found in them.
Honey should be kept in a dry, cool, dark room. If it
could be located on the north side of a building, where
the sun’s rays would not strike it, it would be preferable.
When packing away, let the boxes occupy the same- posi-
tion, vertically, as when upon the hive. If the room is
cool, there will be little danger of injury from the larve
of the moth, yet it should be occasionally examined, and
if any are found, let them be removed at once. If they
are discovered between combs, where they are not acces-
sible, they may be destroyed by the fumes of brimstone.
Put the boxes, with the holes open, in a close barrel or
box that will confine the air as much as possible. Leave
a place for a dish, in which to burn some sulphur matches
made by. dipping paper or rags in melted brimstone.
When all is ready, ignite tne matches, and cover closely
for several hours. A little care is necessary to use the
right quantity ; too little will not kill the larve, and too
much injures the color of the combs. In making the
BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY. 177
matches, much less sulphur will adhere to paper, when it
is very hot, than when just above the temperature neces-
sary to melt it.
If it were not for the fact that the moth-larve are
much more liable to be troublesome, it would be beneficial
to keep box-honey in a moderately warm-room, as a higher
temperature would facilitate its perfect ripening.
Mr. G. M. Doolittle approves of placing it in a room,
on the sunny side of the house, where it will be subject
to a high temperature. He arranges his boxes on a
rack designed for the purpose, so that the fumes of brim-
stone, which he burns in the room, will come in contact
with every comb. The heat of the room will soon ad-
vance the brood of the moth. This plan has some spe-
cial features to recommend it, as it does not involve an
examination of the boxes to ascertain their condition.
Besides, it practically rids-them of all moth-eggs, so that
none are left to hatch and make their appearance after
the honey passes into the dealer’s hands.
PRESENCE OF LARVA.
The question is naturally suggested at this point,
“* How does the moth get into the box to lay her eggs ?”
I cannot answer this better than by quoting Mr. Quinby’s
words: ‘I have taken off glass jars of honey, and
watched them until the bees were all out, and was certain
the moth did not come near them; then, immediately
sealed them up, absolutely preventing any access, and felt
quite sure that I should have no trouble with the moth-
larve. But I was sadly mistaken. In a few days, I
could see a little white dust, like flour, on the side of the
combs, and bottom of the jar. As the larve grew larger,
this dust was coarser. By looking closely at the combs, a
small, white thread-like line could be perceived, enlarg-
ing as the larve progressed. The reader would like to
178 BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY.
know how they came in the jars, when to all appearance,
it was a physical impossibility. I would like to give a
positive answer, but cannot. I will offer a theory, how-
ever, which is original, and therefore open to criticism.
If there is any better solution of the problem, I would be
glad to hear it. From the 1st of June until late in the
fall, the moth may be found around our hives, active at
night but quiet by day. Her only object, probably, is to
find a suitable place to deposit her eggs, where her young
may have food. If no proper and convenient place is
found, she will be content with such as she can find. The
eggs must be deposited somewhere, and she leaves them
in the cracks of the hive, in the dust at the bottom, or out-
side as near the entrance as she dare approach. The bees
running over them may accidentally attach one or more
to their fect or bodies, and carry them among the combs
where they will be left tohatch. It is not at all probable
that the moth ever passed through the hive, among the
bees, to deposit her eggs in the jars before mentioned.
Had these jars been left on the hive, not a larve would
have ever defaced a comb; because, when the bees are
numerous, each one is removed as soon as it commences
its work of destruction—that is, when it works on the
surface, as it does in the boxes. By taking off these jars,
and removing the bees, all the eggs that happened to be
there had a fair chance.”
SUGGESTIONS FOR SECURING CHOICE SPECIMENS OF
HONEY.
It is often desirable to secure some very choice speci-
mens of honey, for exhibition or other special purposes.
As the suggestions given will also indicate some points
that will be useful in general practice, they may be of
value to all beginners. The first consideration is to select
atime when that class of blossoms which produces the
BOXING AND SURPLUS HONEY. 179
finest honey, furnishes a profuse supply. In this section,
this bloom would be basswood. Next, the fact that when
honey is gathered and combs constructed most rapidly,
the appearance is most superior, indicates that a vigorous
colony should be chosen.
For reasons given in Chap. II., native bees should be
selected, if box-honey is to be produced ; and Italians for
extracted. A new, clean hive should be prepared, and
the frames supplied with full cards of foundation: Let
this hive take the place of the colony chosen ; then shake
all the bees into it. Neatness in and about the hive is
very important. Do not allow the bees even to pass over
an old and soiled alighting board, but give them a new
one. If dust is flying to any extent, brush it off of the
board frequently. The effect upon the color of new combs
when built between old and dark combs, is more than
would at first be supposed. I have had full cards of new
combs built with great rapidity in this way, when they
were too dark to be used as guides in boxes. In prepar-
ing boxes, observe perfect neatness, and use the purest
white comb for guides, not more than 2 inches x 1'/, inch
in size. Worker comb will present the finest appearance.
If all the requirements have been attended to, the founda-
tions. will be drawn out in 48 hours, sufficiently to warrant
putting the boxes in place. If to be extracted, the combs
will soon be ready to empty.
Where the brood-nest may be reduced at pleasure, I
should limit the space so as to crowd the bees into the
boxes ; as they should commence work as soon as they
have access to them. The boxes should be removed as
soon as filled. The care and neatness here inculcated
will, if habitual, have a perceptible effect upon the ap-
pearance and reputation of the products of our apiaries.
180 THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE.
CHAPTER XI.
THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE.
ITS VALUE,
Second, @ only in importance to the invention of movable
frames, is that of the machine for extracting liquid
honey from the combs. It was invented by Herr Hrus-
cE Pld,
Leer ry
chka, of Germany, in 1868. The simple words, “ centri-
fugal force,” solved the problem, and taught us all how
short a step it often is from obseurity to light. Mr.
~~ Langstroth had a glimmering of it, ten years before,
when he wrote, “If store combs could be made of gutta
pereha, they might be emptied of their contents, and re-
THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. 181
turned to the hive.” Without the movable frame, it
would be impracticable to extract the honey, and without
the honey extractor, some of the most important results
from. the use of movable combs, would be lost. I
deem the extractor an absolute necessity in every well
conducted apiary, and great honor is due to him who
first demonstrated its practicability. The principle of
the honey extractor. I am glad to say, is unpatentable in
America. There are several forms now in use, some of
which are patented, but these are in no material feature
superior to those that are not patented.
DESCRIPTION.
The principle upon which the extractors operate, is es-
sentially the same in all. A reel is made (see fig. 67),
of a suitable size for the frame to be
used, around which, tinned wire-cloth
of one-quarter inch mesh, is tightly
stretched and securely nailed. A can
of heavy tin, with a stout iron band
around the top to strengthen it, is
made large enough to hold the reel,
allowing about one-inch play between |i
it and the can. There should be at ff
least 4 inches space beneath the lower
part of the reel, at the bottom of the f if
can, to hold the honey. A honey-gate
is attached to the lower part of the
can through which to draw off the Mh y
i
sm Ti a
Tt
ls
honey, when necessary. A gearing ae C)
and crank are attached to give the reel ©
the required motion. The reel is fitted s- 68,—nxonrston
HONEY EXTRACTOR.
into asocket at the bottom, and should
not come within an inch of the top of the can (fig. 67, a).
A comb-basket (see 4, fig. 67), is useful to hold small pieces
182 THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE.
of comb, when it is desired to extract less than whole
cards. There are two modes of gearing, flat and upright,
the first of which is shown in fig. 67. This figure is an
illustration of the Everett Extractor, made by B. 0.
Everett, Toledo, Ohio. I like this one, because I have
been accustomed to use one similarly constructed, devised
by Mr. Quinby. The upright gearing (fig. 68), is equally
practical and much preferred by some. ‘Two of the lead-
ing machines of this class, are manufactured by Mr.
Coffinberry, of Chicago, and C. F. Muth, of Cincinnati,
Ohio.
DESIRABLE FEATURES.
The facility with which the reel may be started and
stopped, when containing four heavy combs, will depend
upon the strength of the machine, and purchase given by
the length of the crank, and if a large amount of honey
is to be extracted, these are points of prime importance.
I need an extractor that may be started at the desired
speed at the first or second turn of the crank, and check-
ed as suddenly. This, it will be seen, requires a strong
substantial machine.
Many of the various extractors: now offered, are defi-
cient in some particular. Some lack strength, others have
so short a leverage in the arrangement of the crank and
gearing, that they are not practical. They may be used
when but little extracting is to be done, but when it is
carried on extensively, they do not meet all the require-
ments. In some forms, the can revolves, but as I con-
sider this feature undesirable, I shall not describe them.
THE USE OF THE HONEY EXTRACTOR.
The extent to which the extractor should be used, will
depend much upon the market for extracted honey. If
the demand was for both box and extracted honey I
should furnish both. Bee-keeping can be conducted very
THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. 183
satisfactorily where all the surplus honcy is taken with
the extractor. In fact, I should much prefer this method
of securing the surplus, if consumers demanded it. This
systom is much better adapted to all kinds of seasons
than that which involves boxing. By it, swarming
may be easily controlled, and if the season closes more
abruptly than is expected, the annoyance of a great num-
ber of incomplete boxes is avoided.
Brood rearing is continued more extensively late in the
season, in hives that have been extracted, consequently
such hives are found to contain a larger supply of young
bees when put in winter quarters. I have taken both box
and extracted honey largely from the same apiary, for
several years, when the conditions were, in all respects,
equally favorable to the production of both, and have
had ample opportunity for noting results.
WHEN TO EXTRACT.
It is seldom necessary to use the extractor until the
general honey yield commences. The honey furnished
by the early blossoms, including that from apple, and
other fruit bloom, is usually required for breeding. If
occasionally a hive contains too much honey, there will
be others so light that combs should be exchanged.
There may be instances where they were so heavy in the
fall, and the bees consumed so little during winter, that
to facilitate brood-rearing, it would be necessary to ex-
tract the honey from the center combs in order to make
room for the deposition of eggs.
ARRANGING HIVES FOR EXTRACTING.
Tf we are to receive the best returns for the labor and
outlay expended, it will be necessary to supply the swarms
to be extracted with extra combs. If the hanging-
frame hive is used, an extra hive should be filled with
184 THE TONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE.
combs, and placed beneath the colony (fig. 69). For hold-
ing these hives together, the fastener illustrated in fig.
Fig. 69.—A TWO-STORY HIVE.
70 is very useful.* In the new Quinby hive we can place
16 combs side by side. I have reached satisfactory re-
Fig. 70.—VAN DEUSEN’S CLASP,
are available, frames containing foundation must be added
as fast as the bees will complete them, until the required
*This was invented by C. C. Van Deusen, and is an excellent device for
securing hives to the bottom-board, and for many other purposes. When not
in use it may be tnrned back against a screw-head, when it will be entirely cut
of the way, as indicated in fig. 70.
TUE TONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. 185
number is obtained. This indicates the wisdom of em-
ploying the bees, at intervals when their labor is not
directed towards surplus, in building such combs for
future use, a3 clsowhero suggested.
TOW TO EXTRACT.
If one or two empty frames are at hand, place them in
an empty hive. Remove the hive to be extracted from
its stand, and put this empty hive in its place. Open the
hive that has been removed, find and cage the queen, and
place her in the empty hive on the old stand. Now shake
and. brush the bees from the combs in front of the empty
hive, and take the combs to the room where the extract-
ing is to be done. With the honey knife, remove all cap-
ping from both sides, where the honey is sealed over.
The knife must be drawn from heel to point, in order to
cut the capping off smoothly, and avoid bruising the ends
of the cells. After all the cells are uncapped, place two
or four combs in the extractor, as it may hold, and turn
it with sufficient speed to throw out all the honey.
‘When the cells on one side are emptied, reverse them
and extract the opposite side. Proceed in this way un-
til all are emptied. Honey may be thrown from the
most tender combs without injuring them. When ex-
tracting from old combs, we get n@ pollen or anything
but the pure honey, thereby avoiding the impurities in-
cident to old fashioned strained honey. The inexperi-
enced should carefully observe the speed requisite to throw
out the honey, and where there are brood-combs, avoid
turning fast enough to dislodge the brood.
Some writers claim that it is not practicable to extract
combs which contain any brood. I have practised it
freely, and when it is done judiciously, I see no harm re-
sulting, while several desirable ends are accomplished.
I do not wish any honey that has been in the hive one
186 THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE.
winter to remain sealed, and to be kept over until an-
other winter; thorough extracting will avoid this.
Brood-rearing is stimulated by extracting the brood-
combs. Such combs in the brood-nest as are designed
for winter stores, should not be extracted too late in the
season, as late-gathered honey is not usually so desirable
for winter consumption. In changing hives, as here-
after directed, and extracting all the combs, a marked ad-
vantage will be derived in the expulsion and destruction
of every moth-worm. In uncapping honey in brood-
combs, use care not to disturb the cells containing brood.
A little caution is all that is necessary, as the honey-cells
are usually lengthened out more than the brood-cells.
After the combs are all extracted they should be arrang-
ed in the hive in the same order as before. If still more
hives are to be extracted, this hive may be used, in the
process of changing, as above alluded to. Remove the
next hive to be operated with, put No. 1 in its place,
and shake all the bees before it, when they will enter, and
work with even more energy than before the operation.
Extract the combs from this, and proceed to the next in
the same manner. When the round is completed, place
the last hive and its contents upon the stand of No. 1,
now occupied by an empty hive and bees, shake the bees
into it, and release the queen.
In extracting, I netice the condition of each colony.
If the first one is populous, containing a large amount of
brood, I select for the second, one that has less bees, as
in this way the brood furnished them, will place them in
better condition. The next swarm selected, should be
more populous, and so on. This equalization benefits all,
giving the weaker ones more working force, and the
better ones more room for stores. When the general
harvest begins, I prefer that all the honey then in the hive
be extracted and kept by itself, thus preventing all mixing
of light and dark honey. A little care in observing the
THE MONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE. 187
cessation of tho yield from different kinds of flowers,
will enable the apiarian to keep different qualities of honey
separate, the advantage of which is eelf-cvident.
CURING EXTRACTED ILONEY.
Much has been said against the practice of extracting
what is termed unripe honey. It is maintained that the
honey must remain in the combs until well cured and
capped over. I have refrained from committing myself
on this point, until I could speak from years of experi-
mental knowledge. I have extracted honey in every
stage, from that which was gathered the same day, to
that which was sealed over ; and I shall advise extracting
honey before it is sealed. Much labor is saved to the
bees, in not being obliged to cap the cells, and the opera-
tor is spared the trouble of uncapping them. If the
honey is properly cared for, it will be found to be equally
fine, without regard to the rfpeness when extracted. Cur-
ing honey simply means a proper evaporation of the
water it contains. This is accomplished in the hive by
its being subjected toa high degree of temperature be-
fore it is sealed. The same result may be produced, by
maintaining similar conditions, after it is extracted. I
have extracted honey in wet seasons, when it was unusu-
ally thin, and found it necessary to place the cans in arti-
ficial heat, until it was sufficiently evaporated.
Honey is very often injured by being stored in a
wooden cask or pail in a damp place. It should be kept
in tin, or, if in wood, the vessel should be first coated in-
side with wax. The process of coating casks is given in
Chapter XVI., on Marketing Honey.
Honey should always be kept in a dry room. If stored
in a cask which has first been coated with wax, the hole
through which it is filled should be left open. For some
years, I have marketed my extracted honey in tin cans.
188 THE IONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS USE,
When taken from the extractors, it is strained through a
wire sieve, into a tin vat with a large faucet at the bottom.
All specks of wax rise to the top, and the shipping cans
are filled by drawing the honey through the gate at the
bottom. Ihave extracted honey before it was sealed in
the combs, placing it in cans which held 300 bs., and
stored it in a cellar, where it was not dry enough to
evaporate the moisture it.contained. The result was that
after the honey became candied, there was a quantity of
thin honey on the top. After removing this, the quality
of the remainder was as fine as could be desired.
HONEY KNIFE.
In 1870, we extracted very extensively, and in using
the straight honey knife or uncapping knife, which up to
that time was the only
one in use (fig. 71), we
found that for rough
and uneven combs, as
well as for rapid execution upon smooth combs, it was
not of the most convenient shape. During that season,
we experimented to some ex- .
tent, with knives bent ina ,
great variety of forms, which ©
resulted in the invention of Fig. 72.
the curved-ointed honey ©°"%* PO NTED HONEY ErirE.
knife (fig. 72). The fact that so many have adopted
it; (some so cordially
as £0 endeavor to make
themselves and others
=» believe that they ori-
ginated it), is ample
proof of its merit.
Those who are familiar
with its history will remember that the first curved-
pointed honey knives that appeared in market, bore the
Fig. 71.—sTRAIGHT HONEY KNIFE.
Fig. 73.—BINGHAM & HETHERINGTON KNIFE
THE HONEY EXTRACTOR AND ITS Use. 189
stamp of “ Quinby and Root.” A new honey knife (fig.
73), has been invented by Bingham and Hetherington, of
Michigan, which embodies some new features, and is
li zhly spoken of by those who have used it.
fECURING EXTRA COMBS OF HONEY.
Extracting as well as boxing should not be carried on
too late in the season. The honey gathered in the fall, is
generally of inferior quality. When less honey was pro-
duced, and the price was good, the poorer qualities would
sell at fair rates ; but, now, that the production is increas-
ed, it must be of superior quality and offered in an attract-
ive shape to command fair returns. I mention this to
show that the later and poorer qualties of honey may be
secured in suitable shape, and be of more value to the
bee-keeper in the care of his bees, than if sold at reduced
prices. To this end, then, cease extracting sufficiently
early, and supply hives that are boxed, with empty combs, .
after boxes are filled with white honey. These extra
combs, when filled with the inferior grades of honey,
may be placed in a dry, cool place, and preserved for the
following season’s use. They will be found valuable in
many operations, especially as suggested in the Chapter
on Feeding,
SECURING GUIDE COMBS.
I often wonder where we formerly obtained guide-
combs for our boxes in sufficient quantity, and of suita-
ble quality, without the use of the extractor. I have
practised placing two empty frames in each hive, one at
each side of the brood-nest, and find that they will be
filled each week.* When extracting, I remove these
combs, and supply their place with empty frames. After
*Iam satisfied that the young bees secrete wax, and build combs at times-
when they would otherwise be idle, making this a very economical method of.
securing guides.
190 WAX AND COMB.
extracting the honey from them, I place them where the
bees will thoroughly clean them of honey, and then pack
them away in a dry, cool place, where they will not be-
come soiled. They may be placed in a box of suitable
size, with a door in the side, under a swarm, and should
be removed a3 fast as cleaned.
In Chapter X., on Boxing, another mode of securing
guide combs is mentioned. I desire particularly to call
attention to these practical methods, to show that with a
little forethought, there is no necessity for using founda-
tion in surplus boxes.
RELATIVE AMOUNT OF BOX AND EXTRACTED HONEY.
It is claimed by some that we may expect to secure
twice as much extracted honey as box honey. This may
be true in some cases, but when extracting a large num-
ber of hives, I think it not safe to expect over one-third
or one-half more. The-price that each quality commands
will determine which it is most profitable to produce.
CHAPTER XII
WAX AND COMB.
WAX.
During the summer season, when honey i3 being gath-
ered rapidly, and combs must be constructed in which it
cm MY be deposited, the observing bee-keeper will
iq notice scales of wax upon the under side of the
li! abdomen of the bee, as seen in fig. 74. Wax is
jj a natural secretion of the honcy-bee and, as has
been demonstrated by many of our most able
apiarians, may be produced by feeding honcy or
syrup, even when the bees are confined to the
hive. These scales are detached from the body with the
WAX AND COMB. 191
claws, and after being suitably moulded with the jaws
of the bee, are used in the construction of honey-comb.
HONEY-COMB.
Nothing in the domestic economy of the bee-hive is
better calculated to impress the observer with the won-
derful instinct of the honey-bee than the process of
comb-building. The ingenuity which the bees display in
the fashioning of the delicate cells might well put human
skill to the blush. Mr. Quinby says :
«‘They need no lectures on domestic economy to tell
them that the use of the base of one set of cells, on one
side of the comb, for the base of those on the opposite
side, will save both labor and wax; no mathematician,
that a pyramidal base, with just three angles, and just
such an inclination, is the exact shape needed, and will
take much less wax than if round or square, that the
three-angled base of one cell, forms a part of the base of
three other cells on the opposite side of the comb, that
each of the six sides of one cell, forms one side of six
others, that these angles and these only would answer the
ends required.”
The first rudiments of comb will often be found within
the first half hour after a swarm is put in an empty hive,
and I have seen bits of wax—as large as a pin’s head, on a
branch, where a swarm had been clustered for a less
time than that. The first deposition of wax for the com-
mencement of a comb seems to be much at random, until
sufficient material is accumulated to begin the cells.
While the combs are in progress, the bases of the cells
near the edge are always kept much the thickest, and are
worked down as they proceed. The edges of the cells,
when completed, will always be found much thicker than
other parts. When bees are allowed to build their combs
without interference, they are quite unlikely to make
192 WAX AND COMB.
them as straight as is desirable ; and even when in frames
a sharp edge, or guide, is furnished, they will need some
attention to make them carry the combs straight to the
bottom. The rapidity with which comb will be built,
depends upon the temperature of the hive and amount of
honey being gathered or fed.
SIZE OF CELLS.
Practically, all cells built for brood-rearing are assumed
to be precisely of the same size, but close observation and
measurements prove that there is a slight variation. This
is so minute, however, that it does not materially affect
the average number of cells to the square inch, which, in
worker-combs, is 25 on each side. The diameter of
worker-cells, therefore, averages about '/, of an inch.
The depth is ‘/,, of an inch. Drone cells are larger, so
that four will about measure an inch, or 16 to the square
inch. Their depth, when used for breeding, is about °/,,
of an inch, but they are often much deeper when used for
storing honey.
Where drone and worker cells are built on the same
comb, the joining of cells of different sizes will produce
considerable irregularity, as may be seen in fig. 2. Even
where two combs, with cells of the same size, unite, they
are often quite imperfect. Queen cells are of exceptional
size and shape, and are constructed according to the
especial needs of the colony, and it is quite frequently the
case that a large number are never completed. (See fig. 66.)
HEXAGONAL SHAPE NOT ESSENTIAL.
The introduction of comb-foundation and experiments
with artificial comb, have resulted in a more thorough
understanding of the essential size and form of cells. The
shape of the natural cell is evidently determined more by
considerations of economy, strength, and space, than by
WAX AND COMB. 193
the inherent necessities of the bee. It is proved by actual
experiment that a cell with a flat base is equally as prac-
tical as that with the three-angled base, constructed by
the bee ; and I am confident that a round cell of suitable
dimensions would answer their real wants as well as a
hexagonal one.
COST OF COMB.
The cost of comb in labor and material is largely under-
estimated. The amount of honey required to secrete a
pound of wax, is generally thought to be not less than 15
Ibs., and some assume it to be as much as 25 Ibs. Ad-
mitting that no more than 15 Ibs. is used, this expendi-
ture is a sufficient argument for the exercise of careful
supervision of the construction of combs, that none be
built to a manifest disadvantage, as well as, that no part
shall be allowed to go to waste.
ARTIFICIAL COMB.
While an artificial comb, with cells of the full depth,
and practical in all respects, has not yet been offered for
our consideration, I must
express my belief that such
will yet be made. In 1870
Mr. Quinby experimented
largely in this direction, and
although complete success
did not crown his efforts, he
established some curious and
interesting facts. He suc-
ceeded in manufacturing
combs of very light tin, as
follows: Strips of tin were cut '/,, inch wide, and
passed between two rollers (fig. 75), which were so con-
structed as to crimp the tin into the exact shape of a
half cell.
9
MACHINE FOR METALLIC COMB.
194 WAX AND COMB.
These strips were placed together, as shown in fig. 76.
It will be seen that two opposite sides of each cell were
composed of two thicknesses of tin. A sheet of this same
light tin was used to form the flat base of the cells. After
both sides were fitted, and secured, the whole was dipped
in hot wax, and was then ready for use. The first piece
tested was about four
inches square, and was
placed in the center of a
frame of worker-comb,
by cutting a hole of the
desired size and fitting it
in very exactly, so as to
o-oo a - present an even surface.
Fig. 76.—MANNER OF SETTING UP) This was placed at the
sak Neca center of the cluster,
where the queen occupied it, filling it with eggs,
just as she did the natural cells adjoining; and in
due time the young bees matured in both equally well.
There were manifest advantages in combs so constructed.
Worms certainly could not injure them and disturb the
bees and brood ; but after thoroughly testing them, it was
evident that the weight and expense of such combs would
render them impracticable. The fact was demonstrated,
however, that bees would accept and occupy combs of
foreign material. The practicability of the flat base, as
now used in comb-foundations, was here fully established.
Combs were also made of very thin sheet-iron, untinned,
and were readily occupied, for both honey and brood.
The fact that these metallic foundations were not ob-
noxious to the bees, was advance proof of the practicabili-
ty of incorporating wire in wax foundation as since in-
vented, and demonstrated by J. E. Hetherington.
Another interesting item in these experiments was this.
The first comb was made with cells '/, an inch deep.
When the brood was sealed over in these cells the caps
WAX AND COMB. 195
were placed precisely */,, inch from their ends, thus
showing the exact depth of natural cells. It was also
curious to notice how readily the bees would lengthen the
artificial cells with wax, when they were used for storing
honey. In nearly every instance they were extended
enough to allow them to be uncapped with the honey
knife for extracting. These experiments are quite suffici-
ent to incline me to the already expressed belief in the
future success of complete artificial comb.
SUPPLYING MATERIAL FOR COMB.
The amount of honey and labor involved in the con-
struction of natural comb, as previously indicated, shows
the extreme desirability of, in some way, utilizing refuse
wax, by converting it into perfect comb again, rather
than to dispose of it at 30 cents per lb. It has often
been noticed that, in warm weather, bees would bite off
bits of wax from fragments of comb, and carry them into
the hive to use in comb-building. I have been, for a
long time, convinced, as I have since demonstrated, that
this process might be facilitated by furnishing the wax in
some feasible way. I have placed tender cappings, that
had been taken from new combs when extracting, in
feeders, where the bees had free access to them, at a time
when they were building out foundations, and the wax so
furnished was speedily appropriated by the bees and.
used in the completion of the combs.
COMB—FOUNDATION.
Tt is difficult to understand why comb-foundation has
received so little attention during the twenty or more
years, since it was first brought to notice by our German
friends. Prof. Cook states that the Germans first manu-
factured it in 1857, by merely pressing sheets of wax be-
tween flat, metal plates, stamped in such a way as to
196 WAX AND COMB.
simply leave the impression of the bases of the cells, with-
out any start whatever, of the side-walls ; and he consid-
ers this to be the extent to which they carried the work.
This is corrected by E. Kretchmer, of Coburg, Iowa, who
writes in the ‘‘ American Bee Journal,”: of December,
1878, as follows: ‘‘ Comb-foundations were made in
Germany in 1842 by my father; they were made by a
pair of engraved rollers, and starch was used to prevent
the wax from adhering to the rollers.” This statement
is corroborated by Mr. Kretchmeyr’s ‘‘ Guide Book,” pub-
lished in 1868. The improvements which brought foun-
dation into general use in America, are accredited to
Frederick Weiss. A modern comb-foundation machine
consists of two rollers so accurately engraved that by
passing thin sheets of wax between them, not only the
base of the cell is formed, but also the rim or beginning
of the side-walls.
MAKING WAX INTO SHEETS.
This is a simple process. The wax is melted in a deep
boiler. A metal plate or piece of thin board the size of
the desired sheet is first dipped in cold water, and then
immersed in the melted wax, repeatedly, until enough
adheres to it produce the desired thickness. When cool,
it will cleave from the metallic or wooden moulds, and is
ready to pass through the foundation machine and re-
ceive the impression. The Hetherington Brothers form
their foundation sheets by revolving a cylinder in the
melted wax, which is so constructed as to be lowered and
raised at pleasure.
WIRE IN FOUNDATION.
Where wire is incorporated in the foundation for pur-
poses to be explained, the merits of this method will be
apparent, The cylinder is thoroughly wet, and lowered
WAX AND COMB. 197
into the melted wax, and revolved until the sheet of wax
is one-half of the desired thickness. It is then raised,
and a very fine wire attached on one side of the cylinder,
wnich is then revolved until the wire is wound around at
suitable distances apart, when it is again dropped into
the melted wax, and the proper amount added. The
sheet is readily removed by cutting across with a knife,
ADVANTAGE OF WIRE.
My first experiments were with foundation without
wires. When the weather is not too warm, foundation
of this kind is not wholly imprac-
ticable, but I have never succeeded.
in obtaining a single perfect comb
with a heavy swarm in warm
weather. The wax would become
so soft that its own weight, com-
bined with that of the bees, would
stretch the cells, causing more or
less distortion, as shown in fig. 77. Fic, 77.
I have several times had a full set DISTORTED CELLS,
of foundations pull apart and fall to the bottom of the
hive when so tried. Thus, it will readily be seen that
the combination of very fine wire in the structure of the
sheets will prevent this sag-
ging and breaking down,
(fig. 78.) I have never
seen such perfect sheets of
comb as I have secured
with foundations of this
- kind, even when built
Fig. 78.—FOUNDATION WITH WIRES. wholly by the bees under
most favorable circumstances. The Hetherington Broth-
ers are now using from 7,000 to 8,000 frames filled with
such foundation, after subjecting them to the most severe
198 WAX AND COMB.
tests. I have also experimented with foundation strength-
ened with milliner’s lace and similar material, but as yet
such substitutes have proved unsatisfactory. The bees
seem to have an aversion to the presence of such sub-
stances, and endeavor to bite them away. The wire, how-
ever, appears to be unobjectionable, and in no way injuri-
ous. I also consider foundation thus supported, valuable.
from the aid the wires give the completed combs, making
Fig. 79.—MACHINE FOR MAKING WORKER-COMB FOUNDATION.
them less liable to be broken from the frames while hand-
ling. This process of incorporating wire was invented and
patented by Captain Hetherington, and must certainly be
counted of much value to the bee-keeping fraternity.
Captain Hetherington considers the foundation with flat-
base cells preferable when the wire is thus combined. I
have received samples of comb-foundation from J. Van
Deusen embracing these new features, which is the most
perfect that has ever come to my notice. Figure 79
represents the large machine with which this foundation
is made.
HEAVY FOUNDATION PREFERABLE.
Many consider a foundation of only the simple base of
the cells, without the start for the side-walls, sufficient 5
WAX AND COMB. 199
but after carefully testing both heavy and light founda-
tion, Iam of the opinion that side-walls are not only an
advantage, but that they should be quite heavy. I have
placed foundation in the center of a good swarm in warm
weather, and in 24 hours, the cells would be drawn out
from one-half to two-thirds of their full length. Similar
experiments convince me that the extra wax can thus be
used in completing the cells, in much less time, and at
less expense, than when the wax must be secreted by the
bees. Much of the foundation manufactured, does not
possess this advantage. I would not have 1 lb. of wax
make more than 5 square feet of foundation.
USES AND VALUE OF FOUNDATION.
Foundation would be valuable, if only used as guides
in frames, as it would be a means of securing straight
combs. But its full worth is best appreciated, when com-
plete frames of it are put into the brood-nest. The value
of full cards of perfect worker-comb cannot be over-esti-
mated, and in no other way can they be so economically
produced. Weare also able to entirely control the quan-
tity of worker-comb, and exclude drone-comb at pleasure.
The value of foundations in hastening the increase of
bees, is apparent. Those without a supply of empty
combs, may, during the spring months, use foundations
to advantage. I have, when transferring, thus filled up a
desired number of frames and placed them in the center
of a strong colony when apple-blossoms were yielding
honey. In 48 hours, the cells were drawn out, and filled
with eggs. It is clear that the value of the bees reared in
such combs, in advance of those that could not be ma-
tured until natural combs were built, would more than
equal the cost of the foundations.
If honey is being gathered rapidly, I should pronounce
good foundations at such times, superior to empty combs.
200 WAX AND COMB.
If the cells are complete, the bees are more apt to fill
them with honey, thus limiting the space of the queen
for egg-laying ; but as foundation cells are drawn out, she
will occupy a larger proportion of them, during the pro-
cess. If drone-combs are desired for extracting, or other
purposes, drone-comb foundation may be procured.
FOUNDATION IN SURPLUS BOXES.
Many advocate the use of comb-foundation for guides
in boxes. It is manufactured for this purpose, of a very
light weight. I have samples before me, 80 delicate that
16 square feet weigh but 1 lb. I have, from the outset,
opposed the use of anything artificial in honey boxes, and
receive daily proof of the soundness of my position.
Prof. Cook’s remarks upon this subject in his ‘‘ Man-
ual,” are pertinent and wise. He says, ‘‘It will not be
well to have the word ‘artificial’ hitched on to our
comb-honey. I think it exceedingly wise to maintain in-
violate in the public mind, the idea that comb-honey is,
par excellence, a natural product.”
Tam gratified that in all my experiments with founda-
tion in boxes, the bees have shown a decided preference
for natural combs, as guides, which seems to be contrary
to the experience of many others.
TO FASTEN FOUNDATION IN FRAMES.
A simple method of securing foundation in frames is
to cut a saw-kerf ‘/, inch deep in the under side of the
top bar of the frame. This may-be done by raising the
saw-table so that the saw projects only '/, inch above the
table, and passing the bar over it before the frame is
nailed together. After the frames are nailed, place the
edge of the sheet in the groove, and fasten it with glue,
setting the frames, bottom up, until the glue hardens.
Foundation may also be secured by laying the end of the.
WAX AND COMB. 201
sheet on the under side of the top bar, and nailing upon
it a thin strip of wood, one-half as wide as the bar, even
with one edge of it, so that when the frame is raised to
an upright position the foundation will turn down against
the strip, and hang directly in the center of the frame.
C. C. Van Deusen says that he finds it practicable with
the wired foundation to cut off with a pair of wooden
shears about '/, inch of the edge of the sheet that is to go
next to the top-bar. The shears will only cut away the
wax, and leave the ends of the wires exposed. He bends
these ends to aright angle with the sheet, and glues them
to the bar in the proper position. I consider the latter
method the best. Foundations to be placed in frames
should be cut so that they will not come within */, inch
of the sides, or */, inch of the bottom. I cut them most
satisfactorily by laying a thin board of the required size
upon the sheets, and cutting around the edge with a
sharp knife.
EXPENSE OF FOUNDATION MACHINES,
The expense of a machine for manufacturing founda-
tion will vary from $30 to $100. Where but a small
amount is required, it may be purchased cheaper than to
procure a machine, or wax may be sent to those manu-
facturing foundation, to be made up at a certain price
per pound, or for a-share. I think, however, that ma-
chines must soon be furnished at a much reduced price.
RENDERING WAX.
The ordinary -process of rendering wax as hitherto
practised, has not only been vexatious, but wasteful, and
I shall, therefore, pass it unnoticed, and give the more
convenient and economical methods.. The most approved
plan is by the use of a wax-extractor. The first one I
shall describe is a foreign invention, which was first made
202 WAX AND COMB,
by Professor Gerster, of Switzerland. The usual size of this
is as follows: A can is made about one foot high, and the
same in diameter, with suitable lid and handles. The
bottom consists of a shallow basin or pan, similar to a
pie-tin, made about 1 inch smaller than the can, with
a rim 1 inch high. This is fastened near the bottom
of the can, with arms, in such a manner that it stands at
the distance of half an inch from all sides of the can,
with one side a little
elevated, so that the
melted wax will run
to one side, where a
small tube or spout
passing through the
side of the can, is in-
serted to carry it off.
A basket of wire-cloth
or perforated tin is
made 1 inch smaller
than the shallow bottom, and high enough to reach
nearly to the top of the can. Three bearings are
arranged on the inside of the bottom, upon which
the perforated basket may rest, at a distance of */, inch
from the bottom, and all sides of the can. This com-
pletes the extractor, which is shown in figure 80. To
render wax in this extractor, place it upon the stove, over
a kettle partly filled with water, in the same manner as
an ordinary kitchen steamer. Fill the perforated basket
with the refuse comb or wax, cover tightly with the lid,
and place a pan under the spout to catch the wax as it
runs out. As fast as it melts, more may be added, until
all is rendered.
The second extractor (fig. 81), is one I have devised
for my own use, which gives entire satisfaction. It is
simply a tin can, 20 inches deep, and 12 inches in diame-
ter, with lid and handles like the other. It contains two
Fig. 80.—swiss WAX EXTRACTOR.
WAX AND COMB. 203
movable screens, made of wire-cloth, each with a rim of
tin about one inch high. To use this, place one of the
screens, rim downwards, in the bottom of the can, to pre-
vent the comb from burning. This should be just large
enough to drop in, and fit loosely. Place the can upon
the stove, and put in a pailful of water. Now, put in
the combs and bits of wax, adding more, as they melt,
until the can is two-thirds
full. The other screen,
which should fit the can
tightly, should now be put
in. This will keep the
impurities from rising to
the surface. By adding
boiling water, and allow-
ing all to boil freely, the
wax will rise above this
upper screen, where it may
be dipped off, or a spout 2
may be constructed near
the top, and water added
until the wax runs off. For
several reasons, I prefer to dipit off. It will be seen that
this last method obviates the necessity of soiling a kettle
each time, or of keeping one for the purpose. It also oc-
cupies less room upon the stove. These extractors may be
made larger or smaller, to meet the needs of the bee-keeper.
In moulding wax into cakes, use a deep basin, and
when cool, if any impurities are found upon the bottom,
shave them off, and melt this portion again. Combs de-
signed for this purpose should be cared for often enough,
to prevent the worms from getting in and spoiling them.
The extractor is a convenient utensil for holding all bits
of refuse wax, and fragments of comb. Dippers, pans,
and other implements used in rendering wax, become
coated with it, and are not easily cleaned.
Fig. 81.—aUTHOR’S WAX EXTRACTOR.
204 FEEDING.
CHAPTER XIII
FEEDING.
ITS NECESSITY.
The subject of feeding bees is, latterly, receiving more
attention than has hitherto been deemed essential. It
may be easily demonstrated, that with intelligent man-
agement in the best locations, and most favorable seasons,.
no feeding is necessary.
In 1869, our stock of bees numbered 415 swarms, and
the exigencies of the season were such, that when it was
over, only six colonies had enough honey to carry them
through the winter, and one-half of the whole number
had none at all. We fed 5,500 lbs. of honey and sugar,
for the winter, besides what we gave them during the
summer, to keep them alive, no honey being gathered,
except from apple-blossoms. This was the most disas-
trous year for bees, in Mr. Quinby’s experience of forty
years. Between this extreme, and that of not being
obliged to feed at all, the necessity for supplying food
will vary with the season.
In 1874, I found feeding necessary from May Ist, until
July 20th, before bees gathered honey enough to continue
breeding profitably. And yet, after this date, I took an
average of 100 lbs. of honey per hive, from my entire
apiary, numbering 100 colonies, besides increasing the
number to 119, and securing stores enough for winter.
Here was an instance of a season opening very unfavor-
ably and closing prosperously.
The year 1875, presented exactly the reverse in many
sections. From the first honey-gathering in spring,
brood-rearing was stimulated by a moderate supply, and
when the general yield began in July, the combs of best
FEEDING. 205
stocks were filled with brood. So well were they occu-
pied, that there was no room for storing honey, except
in boxes, and the amount of surplus was large, consider-
ing the season. This result was largely due to the meas-
ures adopted, as given in the Chapter on Increase, Fall
forage entirely failed, and the consequence was, that
when the combs were vacated by the brood, there was no
honey to be gathered to fill them for winter, and the re-
quisite supplies had to be furnished by feeding. It often
happens that brood-rearing will progress finely during
the time of apple-blossoms, between which and clover,
etc., a period of scarcity will occur, when feeding will
be absolutely indispensable. During cold and stormy
days, when bees cannot go out for water or honey, feed-
ing is essential.
WHAT TO FEED.
A good quality of honey, is undoubtedly good enough.
Yet the continued experiments of our best bee-keepers,
have given abundant proof that good sugar is equally
suitable, and by some is claimed to be even better than
honey. I have used it largely, comparing the results
with honey fed at the same time, and find it to be satis-
factory. As feeding occurs when honey is scarce, sugar
is much less liable to induce robbing, making it in this
respect much more desirable to use. The poorer grades
of honey sell so low, that it is often cheaper to feed such
honey than to purchase sugar for the purpose. Besides,
the impurities and adulteration of sugar, at the present
day, are making it quite undesirable.
We are tending more and more each year to the prac-
tice of feeding honey only, to our bees, and I shall wel-
come the day when this will be the exclusive practice,
thus avoiding the appearance, even, of any possibility of
fraud in the quality of our surplus honey.
Grape sugar and glucose have been advocated as a cheap
206 FEEDING.
food for wintering bees, and stimulating breeding, but
my experience coincides with that of many of our best
bee-keepers who condemn their use entirely. For winter-
ing, it has proved an entire failure with me.
PREPARING FOOD.
As bees require water when rearing brood, the food fur-
nished them at such times should contain more water than
when it is to be sealed in combs for winter stores. Honey
should be diluted by adding 1 pint of water, to 4 pounds of
honey ; the mixture should then be scalded and skimmed.
To prepare sugar, add 1 quart of water to 3 pounds of
“A” sugar, bring to a boil, and skim. In selecting
sugar, avoid such as contains impurities. That with a
bluish tint is objectionable, as it often contains a foreign
substance that will be found in the form of a sediment
at the bottom of the vessel after dissolving it. We used
large quantities of sugar thus adulterated, in the spring of
1876, and the great loss of bees which followed, was evi-
dently the result of some deleterious substance in the sugar.
For fall feeding, when it is to be stored in the combs for
winter use, honey need not be diluted, and the sugar syrup
may be made with one quart of water to 4 pounds of sugar.
FEEDERS.
It is very necessary that feeders be so arranged that the
: bees have easy access to
them, from the hive, and
also, that bees from other
hives shall not be attracted
tothem. Acheap and very
practical feeder, which I
use in connection with the
Quinby hive, is shown in
fig. 82; it is a simple tin
cup, 3 in, deep, 5 in. long, and 2 in. wide. These
Fig, 82.—FEEDER ON PANEL.
FEEDING. 207
dimensions can be varied to suit. In the center of
one side, near the top, is a °/,-in. hole, and near each
end, on either side of this hole, are two others, large
enough to slip over a nail-head.
In the panel, at the side of the Quinby frame, I bore a
*/,-in. hole to correspond with the one in the cup, and
drive two small nails at proper distances each side, upon
which to hang the feeder. A cap may be miade to
shut out bees from the outside. I lay a piece of glass over
it, to be able to see when it is empty. These feeders are
coated on the inside with a mixture of shellac and sand,
that the roughness may give the bees a footing. A float
is made of */,-inch board, and */, inch smaller each way
than the inner dimensions of the feeder. Across the
underside of this, at each end, is a cleat */,x'/, inch.
This is nailed on with small tacks just long enough to
clinch. If, in each end of the cleats, a tack is driven
partially in, so that the head comes within */, inch of the
cleat, the float will rest upon the heads of these tacks
when the feeder is about empty, and the bees will be able
to pass under it. This will allow the bees to remove the
food more completely than if it rested directly on the
bottom. The fact should always be borne in mind, that
bees should never have access to liquid honey, without
something being placed in it to sustain them.
The feeder above described, can be used in connection
with the hanging-frame hive, in the spring, when each
swarm contains but a limited number of frames, and a
close-fitting division-board is used to economize space.
A hole may be bored in this board, and the feeder ad-
justed as above.
For feeding at the top of the hive, I know of nothing
better than the Van Deusen feeder (fig. 83). After fill-
ing, it is inverted and placed over the opening on the top
of the hive. Atmospheric pressure prevents the escape
of the honey or syrup. If. adjusted properly, the feeder
208 FEEDING.
will prevent the escape of heat from the hive, and at the
same time it occupies a warm position, which will aid the
bees in securing the food. A very practical feeder may
be made in a frame, and placed directly in the hive.
Several forms are used by different bee-keepers for feeding
at the entrance. Two noticeable feeders of this kind are
the “Simplicity,” made and used by A. I. Root, of Me-
dina, Ohio, and the ‘‘ Boss Bee-feeder,” invented by J.
M. Shuck, Des Moines, Iowa.
Where extensive feeding to supply winter stores is nec-
essary, a more rapid process is advantageous. We have
practised putting the syrup or honey directly in the
Z
Fig. 83.—VAN DEUSEN’S FEEDER.
combs with satisfactory results, giving the entire amount
necessary at one time. It may be done as follows: Take
a can or tub about two feet across the top, in which place
the syrup made as above directed. Then prepare a board
a little wider than the depth of the frames, by nailing a
strip on each edge, which shall project about one inch
above it, to prevent the liquid from running off the sides
of the board, and to conduct it back into the tub. Place
one end of this board on the tub, and the other upon legs
elevated enough above it so that the feed will run off
freely (see fig. 84). Then in the bottom of a common
quart-dipper, punch one-sixteenth inch holes, about three-
eighths of an inch apart. Place the empty comb on the
board, and dip up the syrup, letting if drain into the
FEEDING. 209
cells, A little practice will indicate the distance it must
fall, as there must be force enough to drive it to the bot-
tom of the cell, and not so much as to cause it to spatter
out. In turning the combs to fill opposite sides, care
should be taken, or they may fall out of the frames. To
prevent this, use a piece of thin board, the size of the
frame, placing it under it while filling, and raise the
comb with it to an upright position, and then place the
board on the opposite side, and fill as before. As fast as
Fig. 84.—FILLING COMBS FOR FEEDING.
the combs are filled, set them up perpendicularly, where
the extra syrup may drain off. These operations must
be performed in a room where bees can make no trouble.
Combs filled with syrup must be placed in the hives after
the bees stop flying at night. After the required amount
is put in the combs, it is well to weigh the whole again,
to see that nothing is lost by robbing. If some hives are
found to contain more than the necessary amount, heavy
combs may be exchanged for light ones from other hives.
One writer, in endorsing this method, approves of it,
210 FEEDING.
‘because it saves the bees the labor of putting the
honey in the cells.” But this is an error. ‘T'he bees evi-
dently remove it, and re-store it, probably to exclude the
air, and secure a more thorough evaporation of the water.
HONEY IN COMBS FOR SPRING FEEDING.
A colony should never be without sealed honey during
spring months. It is much easier to ascertain the presence
of such honey than thet of uncapped honey. The last sealed
honey in a comb will usually be at the top. By using a
smoker, the bees may be driven from this part of the
combs, and the amount of capped honey observed, with-
out disturbing the frames. Any deficiency thus discov-
ered may be supplied by furnishing combs of sealed honey,
preserved for the purpose the previous season, as has been
elsewhere suggested. I anticipate the extensive adoption
of this plan of feeding. To stimulate breeding, it will
only be necessary to break the capping of such combs by
rubbing the edge of a knife over them, when the bees
will remove the honey.
FEEDING TO SECURE SURPLUS IN BETTER FORM.
The practice of freely feeding extracted honey, to be
stored in boxes, is becoming quite common. If a suita-
ble time is chosen, and the weather is warm, it will be
found advantageous when boxes are partly filled, and
would not be otherwise completed. Strong colonies
should be selected for the purpose, and should contain
only such combs in the brood-nest, as are well filled
with brood and honey, and but a limited number of
frames. They should be fed as rapidly as they will ap-
propriate the honey. For this purpose, a large feeder
should be used. One holding at least 10 pounds would be
preferable.
FEEDING. 211
HONEY SHOULD BE WARM WHEN FED.
Honey should never be taken from a cold room to feed,
unless first warmed, especially when fed for storing in
boxes. It should be as warm as when gathered by the
bees in midsummer. This matter of temperature, and
of feeding in the morning so that honey may be taken into
the hive during the warmest hours of the day, have an im-
portant bearing on successful feeding, for storage in boxes,
Mr. Quinby and myself experimented largely in feeding
in quite cold weather, by arranging the hives inside of a
room, on the principle of the House Apiary, and furnish-
ing artificial heat. While the experiment was not per-
fectly successful, we proved the practicability of using arti-
ficial heat when feeding, and for other purposes connect-
ed with the House Apiary. When feeding to stimulate
breeding, about one gill should be given regularly each
evening. The bees should not be fed any more than
they will consume, as it is undesirable to have syrup
stored in the combs, at this season. In feeding for win-
ter use, food may be given them as rapidly as they will
store it. Itis important that this be done early enough in
the fall, to be properly sealed in the combs. In this lati-
tude, it will be necessary to do it in September, or early in
October. The greatest care must always be exercised, in
feeding, not to expose honey in any way, and thereby in-
duce robbing.
212 ROBBING.
CHAPTER XIV.
ROBBING.
GENERAL REMARKS.
Robbing is often a source of loss to the careless apiarian.
It is frequent in spring, and at any time in warm weather,
when there is a scarcity of honey. It is very annoying,
and is sometimes a source of contention among neighbors,
when perhaps neither is to blame, farther than for igno-
rance. The person keeping the most bees, must expect to
be held accountable for all the losses in the neighborhood,
whether they occur from mismanagement, or want of
management, and if he escapes without being charged
with those losses due to hundreds of causes, he ought
to be thankful. It is often thought if a person has but
one stock, and another has ten, that the ten will combine
to plunder the one. This conclusion is not warranted by
facts; I can discover no collusion between different fami-
lies of the same apiary. It is true that when one colony
finds another weak and defenceless, possessing treasures,
they have no conscientious scruples about carrying them
off to the last particle, notwithstanding that they revel in
abundance at home; and it is most frequently the case
that the strongest colonies are most given to this despica-
ble habit. The hurry and bustle attending the plunder,
seldom escape the notice of other hives, and when one
hive has been robbed, perhaps two-thirds or all of the
other colonies have participated in the offence.
When honey is being gathered largely from natural
sources, little apprehension of robbing need be entertained.
At such times honey may often be Jeft exposed, without
receiving the slightest attention from the bees. We have
taken tons of honey with the extractor, in the open air,
when it was most freely exposed, without exciting their
ROBBING, 213
marauding propensities in the least. But if such temp-
tations are placed before them in times of scarcity, par-
ticularly in the spring, serious results may be anticipated.
It is worth while to mention here, that if thievish habits
are formed early in the season, by careless exposure of
even trifling quantities of honey, bees will search for it
more perseveringly, during the season, if it prove to bea
poor one, than if, by strict care, they had been prevent-
ed from acquiring the habit. Therefore, it should be a
cardinal rule, for beginners, that honey, or broken up,
discarded hives and frames, upon which particles of honey
may remain, should not be accessible to the bees, at any
time when they could possibly be demoralized thereby.
Robbing is often induced by leaving too large an en-
trance open, or other unnecessary apertures, thus allow-
ing outsiders too free accegs.
Probably but few bee-keepers are able to know at once
when bees are robbing. It requires the closest scrutiny
to decide. There is nothing about the apiary more diffi-
cult to determine ; nothing in which one is more likely
to be deceived. It is generally supposed that when a
number are fighting outside, it is conclusive that they are
also robbing, which is seldom the case. On the contrary,
a show of resistance indicates a strong colony, and that
they are disposed to defend their treasures. A very weak
colony of Italians will often make a spirited resistance. I
have no fears for a stock’that has courage to repel an at-
tack. The greatest danger is with those weak colonies
incapable of opposition. Such should at all times be
closely watched,.and the entrance more than. usually con-
tracted, that the bees may the more easily defend them-
selves. Queenless colonies are much less vigorous in self
defence. If there are colonies which have been wintered
on their summer stands, or having been set out earlier in
the season are thoroughly established, in the same or
neighboring apiaries, care should be taken in setting out
214 ROBBING.
weak swarms, as in the confusion incident to the first
flight they are in less defensible condition, and much
more likely to attract pillagers than they will be later in
the season. Let it be understood that all good stocks,
under ordinary circumstances, will take care of them-
selves. Nature has provided them with the means of
defence, with instinct to direct its use.
INDICATIONS OF ROBBING.
In order to recognize the first indications of robbing at
a glance, it will be necessary for the bee-keeper to be able
to distinguish between old and young bees, and between
those that are filled with honey and those that are not.
Each robber, when leaving the hive, instead of flying in
a direct line to its home, will turn its head towards the
hive to mark the spot, that it may return for another
load, in the same manner that bees do when leaving their
own hive for the first time in the spring. When the
young bees first leave home, they mark their location in
the same manner. A few of these begin to hatch very
early, in all good stocks, often before the weather is warm
enough for any to leave the hive. These young bees will
fly out very thickly about the middle of each fair day, or
a little later. This unusual activity strongly resembles
the bustle of robbers, and it is difficult to detect the dif-
ference. Their motions are alike, but there is a little
difference in color, the young bees being a shade lighter ;
and the bodies of the robbers, when filled with honey, are
a little larger. But while one is learning these nice dis-
tinctions, his bees may be ruined. Bees, when they
have been stealing honey from a neighboring hive, will
generally run several inches from the entrance before fly-
ing; kill some of these; if filled with honey, they are
robbers ; for it is very suspicious to be filled with honey
when leaving the hive; or, if there are but few colonies,
ROBBING. 215
mark the bees, sprinkling some flour on them as they
come out, and let some one watch at the other hives to
see if any of those with flour on them enter. The
following is less trouble, but it will be longer before
they are checked, if robbing. Visit them again in the
course of half an hour or more, after the young bees have
returned, and if the bustle continues or increases, it is
time to interfere. When the entrance has been con-
tracted, as directed, close it entirely until near sunset. If
it has been left open, it should now be closed, giving
room for only one bee at a time. This will allow all that
belong to the hive to get in, and others to get out, and
will materially retard the progress of the robbers. Un-
less it should be cool, they will continue their operations
until evening. This late working, by the way, is a good
test of robbing. Visit the hives each warm evening, as
they commence depredations on the warmest days, and
seldom at any other time. If any are at work when
honest laborers should be at home, they must be re-
garded with suspicion.
REMEDIES.
The old saying, ‘‘ An ounce of prevention is worth a
pound of cure,” is most applicable here. To keep stocks
strong and capable of self defence, is the golden rule that
would carry the beginner over these critical periods, when
scarcity of honey and a little undue carelessness on his
own part tempts the ‘“‘busy bee” to take what he wants
wherever he can find it. But in the best regulated api-
aries we shall find colonies that need special care. When
the mischief is begun, prompt measures must be insti-
tuted. Mr. Quinby says: “‘I would recommend remov-
ing the weak hive on the morning after the attack to the
cellar, or some dark, cool place, until two or three days
have passed, and the search has been abandoned. The
robbers will probably attack the stock on the next stand.
216 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
Contract the entrance of this according to the number of
bees to pass. If the colony is strong, no danger need be
apprehended. When a hive has been removed, if the ad-
joining one is weak, take that in also, to be returned as
soon as the robbers will allow it. If a second attack is
made, put the hives in again, and let them remain until
the marauders cease their attempts. When robbers are
endeavoring to effect an entrance into a hive, a little
grass, or what is better, some asparagus tops, thrown
loosely before the opening, will afford material hindrance,
and when the attack ceases, it may be removed.”
I may add to these suggestions that when stocks are
put in the cellar for protection, they may be entirely des-
titute of stores, which deficiency must be supplied by
feeding.
CHAPTER XY.
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
DYSENTERY.
If proper conditions for wintering be observed, this dis-
ease need not be feared. If honey is gathered late in the
season, or is fed so late as not to be sealed up, it will tend
to produce dysentery. A cold, damp cellar, where bees
are unable to properly evaporate the moisture in their food,
and undue disturbance, will also have the same tendency.
A genuine case of dysentery can be produced in a very
short time by combining these conditions. It may be de-
tected by the soiling of the hive about the entrance. The
combs will also often be soiled and injured. The bodies
of bees thus affected will be found to be unusually dis-
tended. When in this condition they should be allowed
to fly, on the first favorable opportunity, in order that
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 217%
they may discharge their feces. The wise bee-keeper
will observe suitable precautions, and prevent the appear-
ance of this evil.
FOUL BROOD.
During a large portion of Mr. Quinby’s bee-keeping ex-
perience, the evil of foul brood held so decided a foothold
among the apiaries of American bee-keepers, that his time
and attention were, for many years, greatly engrossed by
its investigation. He was among the very first to become
familiar with its appearance, his first observations being
made as early as 1835. In the first editions of this work,
he gave a minute account of his investigations into the
cause or causes of the malady, and search for a prevent-
ive; and, although he never satisfied himself as to the
cause, his persevering efforts in seeking remedies were re-
warded with admirable success. In later years, and par-
ticularly since the introduction of Italian stock into this
country, the disease has abated so materially as to be of
minor importance. Our last experience with it was in
1870, and its final disappearance was somewhat remark-
able, inasmuch as it seemed to vanish without any special
effort on our part for its extinction. Several stocks that
were somewhat infected, were marked to identify them,
and placed in winter quarters, with the design of breaking
them up in the spring ; but when removed from the cel-
lar all traces of the disease had vanished, and the stocks
remained healthy thereafter. I have seen but one case
of foul brood since, and that a mild one.
INDICATIONS OF FOUL BROOD.
The cappings of the infected cells are somewhat sunken,
with a small hole in the center. The disease only affects
the immature brood before it reaches the chrysalis state.
By an examination of the brood-cells it is easy to ascer-
10
218 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
tain if any of the larve be dead and putrid. Healthy
larvee are always white, until some time after they assume
the chrysalis form ; hence, if they are dark-colored, it in-
dicates something wrong. Where the malady has made
much headway, the unpleasant odor is ample evidence of
its presence.
REMEDY.
The first thing to be done is, to confine the bees in an
empty hive or box, set them in a dark, cool place, and let
them remain there, at lcast twenty-four hours, that all
the honey they carry with them, may be entirely con-
sumed. There is no doubt but the honey from an in-
fected hive, will carry the contagion to a new stock of
brood. After sufficient time has elapsed to prevent this
danger, the bees may be put into a hive filled with healthy
combs, or foundation. The portions of comb contain-
ing the diseased brood should be carefully cut out and
buried, and the remainder converted into wax. If honey
remains, it can be utilized for feeding, by thoroughly
boiling and skimming it. A quart of water may be added
to 10 lbs. of honey. The utmost vigilance must be con-
stantly maintained to prevent any bees of other colonies
from having access to the honey, combs, or hive of the
diseased stock. The condemned hive may be cleansed
completely by scalding it with boiling water and scrap-
ing thoroughly. Exposure to the weather will usually
complete the disinfection.
DUE TO A FUNGOID GROWTH.
The researches of modern German investigators have
shed much light upon the nature of this malady, and
the view that it is a fungoid growth, propagated by
means of the spores, or seed-vessels, is being adopted by
many of our best bee-keepers. The same spirit of intel-
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 219
ligent inquiry to which we owe so many of our striking
improvements, has provided a remedy with which I have
no experience, but which I accept from good authority.
REMEDY.
The remedy is Salicylic Acid, dissolved in alcohol,
or in a solution of Borax in water. Mr. Muth’s
recipe, as I quote from ‘‘Cook’s Manual,” is, one hun-
dred and twenty-eight grains of Salicylic Acid, the same
of Soda Borax, and sixteen ounces of Distilled Water.
This fluid is thrown in a fine spray over the combs, the
brood being previously uncapped. This is said to be
harmless to the bees but fatal to the fungi. The same
precautions are necessary as to the care of the honey, and
the confinement of the bees, as above stated.
PARASITES,
The statements of Prof. Packard, and other natural.
ists, combined with my own observations, have led me to
favor the view that the original cause of this disease is a
parasite feeding upon the larve, producing death and pu-
trefaction. The small holes in the caps of the infected
cells possess a significance in this connection. The re-
markable diminution of this scourge within the past few
years, is to be accounted for, I think, upon a similar
theory. It is consistent to suppose that among the
many various parasites that infest the bee-hive, there are
those which prey upon the destroyer of the larve, and
thus destroy them in turn. Corroborative evidence of
this, is found in our experience with cabbage and currant
worms, potato bugs and other pests, which, after a few
seasons of unchecked devastation, are overtaken by their
parasitic enemies, and their ravages materially lessened.
Those who have not given attention to the subject of
parasites, can hardly be aware of the number and variety of
220 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
these minute pests. I have made them a subject of par-
ticular study and observation, with increasing interest,
In the course of my investigations at various periods dur-
ing the past three years, I have examined hives in some
of the leading apiaries of this State, and in every in-
stance have found several varieties of parasites present,
in greater or less numbers. I bave thus far discovered nine
distinct forms, but whether they are distinct species, I
am unable from lack of entomological knowledge to de-
termine.
The conditions under which I have generally found
them to be most troublesome, and annoying to the bees,
indicate to my mind, that much of the difficulty encoun-
tered in wintering bees, may be due to their presence.
It has long been claimed by our best writers on the sub-
ject of wintering, that one of the prime requisites for
success was perfect quiet. It has also been noticed by
many that while some swarms remained very quiet, others
could be heard buzzing, and would be constantly uneasy.
The fact that some were quiet, shows that the uneasi-
ness was not due to any external disturbance. It hag
often been a subject of much perplexity to me why these
different conditions should exist.
Some writers have advised setting such restless swarms
upon their summer stands for a purifying flight, and this
may be desirable, inasmuch as they have necessarily been
stimulated to a large consumption of food by this undue
excitement; but the original cause of this disturbance
has not yet been understood.
Thave found such swarms clearing the dust from the
bottom boards, and upon examining it as they had
thrown it from the entrance, I discovered these par-
asites in large numbers which had been ejected from the
hive. I find the Italians much more liable to be dis-
turbed by them than the natives. Their tendency to de-
fend themselves is here manifest, and they are more
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 221
easily aroused to action. This may account for the cases
that are cited where the natives winter better than the
Italians. Another proof that the worrying of swarms
while in winter quarters is occasioned by these pests, is
the fact that the bees gradually leave the hive and fall
upon the cellar bottom ; and when set upon their summer
stands, these weak swarms will be found throwing these
parasites from the hive in large numbers. It has been
demonstrated by the experience of many, in wintering,
that when the ventilating slide in the bottom board is
left open, the bees in most cases cluster lower and directly
over the opening, and are found to keep more quiet.
This method has been recommended because of the evi-
dently better results. I had supposed that the advantage
lay in the fact that they were more certain of their free-
dom from the opening being so near, and I yet believe
this to be a condition which favors this result. It occurs
to me, however, since my acquaintance with these para-
sites that they were also more easily removed from the
hive when it was thus arranged. I have examined the
dust which dropped from the cluster through this open-
ing, when in winter quarters, and lodged upon the top of
the hive beneath, and in nearly every case found these in-
sects. It has been found to conduce to successful wintering
to place a rim under each hive, raising it a short distance
from the bottom board. In this case, the insects in the
dust would be farther from the cluster of bees, and less
likely to annoy them. It has often been noticed that
during the spring and summer months, young bees are
thrown from the cells that have been, through some
cause, destroyed before maturing. Cases have been re-
ported where young bees have been so removed in large
numbers. It seems very reasonable to infer that these
may have been destroyed by parasites, as I have found
them in the bodies of such bees.
They are found in all parts of the hives where the bees
222 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
can not reach them. Where the mat hugs closely to the
frame, they will often be found between it and the frame.
Some of them frequent the hive apparently for honey
Fig. 85. Fig. 86.
“ HONEY BUG.” TRICHODES APIARIUS.
alone; others seem to be found only in the dust under
the cluster, while yet others appear to feed upon the
bees, especially the young and immature bees that are
thrown from the combs. The insect found most fre-
quently in the dust is a small chestnut-brown beetle,
about one-twelfth of an inch in length, and clothed, as
seen under the microscope, with the most minute hairs.
This beetle is given at fig. 85, of course greatly enlarged.
As this is supposed to feed upon
honey, it is known to bee-keepers °
as the ‘‘Honey-bug.” A beetle,
which in Europe destroys the
larvee of the bee, is Trichodes
apiartus ; I have occasionally de-
tected what appears to be this in-
sect, as it agrees well with Pack-
ard’s figure, which is here given in
fig. 86. Some evidently harbor in
the minute pores of the wood, as
often, when I have brought a bottom-board into a warm
room for examination, scores would shortly appear where
Fig. 87.—SEED GLASS.
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 223
scarcely one could at first be discerned. The good results
claimed to follow a thorough painting of the hive, within
as well as without, may arise from the closing of its pores
by the paint, and the
consequent exclusion
of these insects. Un-
der certain circum-
stances, however, this
gain may be counter-
balanced by disadvan-
tages otherwise men-
tioned. A common
seed-glass, such as are
sold by opticians (fig.
87), for detecting adul-
terations or impurities
in seeds will answer.
Better still, as afford-
ing a higher power,
and being more con-
venient in use, for observing these parasites, is the
American Agriculturist Simple Microscope (fig. 88), of-
fered by the Orange Judd Company.
The progressive bee-keeper will here find interesting
ground for investigation, which has a more direct bearing
upon Vital points in his pursuit than may at first be sup-
posed. I anticipate that the discoveries of the near fu-
ture in this direction will not only be surprising, but en-
lighten us materially in regard to many mysteries for
which we are as yet unable to furnish a solution.
BEE-MOTH.
If we combine into one phalanx all other enemies of the
bee, and compare their ability for mischief, with that of
the bee-moth, we shall find their powers of destruction
224 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
but feeble in comparison. From the moth herself we
would have nothing to fear, were it not for her progeny,
a hundred, or a thousand, vile worms, the food of which
is principally wax.
As the instinct of the flesh-fly directs her to a putrid car-
cass to deposit her eggs, that her offspring may have their
proper food, so the bee-moth seeks the hive containing
combs, where the natural food of her progeny is at hand.
During the day, a rusty brown miller, with its wings close
Fig. 89.—BEE MOTH.
to the body, may be often seen lying perfectly motionless
on the corner of a hive, or on the under edge of the top,
where it projects over. They are more frequent at the cor-
ners than anywhere else, one-third of their length project-
ing beyond it, appearing much like a sliver on the edge of a
board that is somewhat weather-beaten, (fig. 89). Their
color so closely resembles that of old wood, that no doubt
their enemies are often deceived, and they thus escape
with their lives. As soon as darkness shuts out the view,
and there is no danger of their movements being discov-
ered, they throw off their inactivity, and commence
searching for a place to deposit their eggs, and woe to the
stock that has not bees sufficient to drive them from the
comb. Although their larvee generally has a skin that
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 225
the bee cannot pierce with its sting, it is not so with the
moth, and of this fact they seem to be aware, for when-
ever a bee approaches they dart away with a speed
much greater than that of any bee disposed to follow.
They enter the hive, and dodge out in a moment, either
from fear of the bees, or from having actually encountered
them. Now it needs no argument to show that, when
our stocks are well protected, there must be a poor chance
for the moth to deposit her eggs upon the combs, which
instinct teaches her is the proper place. But she must
leave them somewhere.
WHERE THEIR EGGS ARE DEPOSITED.
When driven from all the combs within, the next best
places are the cracks and flaws about the hive, that are
Fig. $0.—wWoRM GALLERY IN COMB.
lined with propolis, and the dust and chips that fall on
the floor-board of a young swarm not full. This last ma-
terial is partly wax, and answers very well instead of comb.
The eggs will hatch here, and the worms sometimes as-
cend to the comb; but if the dust that collects upon
the bottom is kept brushed off clean, it will prevent those
hatched there from going up, and also hinder the bees from
226 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
taking up any eggs on their feet, if this should happen to
be the method by which they get among the combs of a
populous stock. They are often detected there, and I
can conceive of no other means by which they can be de-
posited. A worm lodged in the comb makes his way
either to the center, or between the heads of the young
bees in the cells and
the sealing, and as he
proceeds, eats a pas-
sage, lining it with a
shroud of silk, and
gradually enlarging
it, as he increases in size, as shown in fig. 90. When
combs are filled with honey, they work on the surface,
eating only the sealing. In very weak families, this silken
passage (fig. 91) is left untouched, but is usually re-
moved by all strong colonies.
When a worm is in the center of a comb filled with
brood, its passage is not at first discovered. The bees, to
get it out, must bite away half the thickness of the comb,
removing the brood in one or two rows of cells, sometimes
for several inches. This will account for the number of
immature bees often found in the spring on the floor-
board at morning ; as well as in stocks but partially pro-
tected after the swarming season.
Fig. 91.—woRM GALLERY REMOVED.
DEVELOPMENT OF THE LARVZ.
When undisturbed, the larvee will grow one-half or two-
thirds larger than when their right to the comb is dis-
puted. In one case they often E
make their growth, and actu-
ally wind up in their cocoon,
when less than an inch in chi
length ; in the other, they will Sig Oe ae
quietly fatten until they are an inch and a half long, and
as large as a pipe-stem (fig. 92.) When first hatched
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 224
from the egg it is difficult to discern them with the naked
eye. Their rapidity of growth depends as much on the
temperature in which they are placed, as upon their good
living. A few days of hot weather may develop the full-
grown worm, which would require weeks and even
months { in a lower temperature.
The larva, after spinning its cocoon (fig. 93), soon
changes into a chrysalis, and remains inactive for
several days, when
it makes an open-
ing in one end, and
crawls out. The
time necessary for
this transforma-
tion is also gov-
erned by the tem-
perature, although
I think but few ever pass the winter in this state. A moth
will rarely be found before the end of May, and not
many are seen until the middle of June; but after this
time they are more numerous until the end of the season.
Fig. 93.—cocoons.
DESTROYED BY SEVERE COLD.
Mr. Quinby’s experience, as well as my own, leads me
to differ with some modern writers on this point, and I
am compelled to maintain, that if combs containing eggs
or larve are exposed to the severe cold of our northern
winters, not a single worm will be produced before the
middle of June, or until some moth, matured in another
hive, has had access to the combs, and an opportunity to
deposit her eggs therein.
REMEDIES.
It has already been observed that the Italians are much
less liable to be disturbed, or injured by the bee-moth,
228 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
than the natives. 'Pheir disposition to defend themselves
so vigorously, isan invaluable ally to the careful bee-keeper.
With the frequent handling of movable combs, in the
various operations incident to the season, 2 worm in any
part of the hive can readily be detected and disposed of,
and there is little excuse for allowing them to become
numerous. A knife or other sharp-pointed instrument
should be at hand to administer speedy justice, as every
one not destroyed, soon becomes a host. Combs taken
from hives in which bees have been wintered, and later
in the season, such spare combs as the moth may have had
access to, should be examined, and if signs of its work
are seen, the combs should be placed in a box, and sub-
jected to the fumes of brimstone. Such combs are valua-
ble, and should be preserved. If, from any mishap or
carelessness, a stock becomes so over-run with worms as
to be in danger of destruction, the bees should be remov-
ed, and the hive and contents thoroughly fumigated with
brimstone. If any brood should be worth saving, let
it be cut out, and cared for. The combs unfit for
any purpose, should be buried or burned.
MOTH-PROOF HIVES.
No hive has ever yet been invented which will exclude
the moth. It is distressing to contemplate the amount of
humbuggery that credulous bee-keepers have endured for
scores of years, in the shape of so-called moth-proof
hives. Let it be distinctly understood by all beginners
that the moth is not the cause of the decline of a once
healthy stock. It simply takes advantage of the weak-
ness induced by other causes. Therefore, the obvious
remedy or preventive is, to “‘keep all colonies strong,”
and destroy every moth, larva, or chrysalis at sight.
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. 229
THE BEE-KILLER.
In the Western and Southern States bees suffer greatly
from a two-winged, very voracious insect known as the
*Bee-killer.” It is the
Asilus Missouriensis of Ri-
ley, and is given in fig. 94,
of the natural size, from
Riley’s ‘First Report on
the Insects of Missouri.”
Its general color is yellow-
ish brown or yellowish grey,
and but little is known of
its history and habits. It
pounces upon the bee while
on the wing, and takes its
victim to some plant, or even to the ground where, with
its stout proboscis, it sucks out the inside of the bee and
leaves but an empty shell. Though occasionally found
in the Eastern States, this insect has fortunately not be-
come common. But little is known as to the best methods
of destroying it ; bee-keepers should be on the watch for
this enemy, and destroy it wherever it is found.
Fig. 94.—BeE KILLER.
RATS AND MICE.
Rats and mice are never troublesome, except in cold
weather. The entrances of all hives standing out, are
much too small to admit a rat. No damage need be ap-
prehended from them except when the hives are in the
house. They appear to be fond of honey, and when it is
accessible, will eat several pounds in a short time.
Mice will often enter the hive on the out-door stand,
when not excluded, and make extensive depredations.
Sometimes, after cutting a space in the combs, they will
make their nests there. The animal heat created by the
“230 DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES.
bees, will make a snug, warm place for winter quarters.
The “‘deer mouse” seems to be particularly fond of the
bees, while those belonging to the house, seem to relish
the honey.
The entrance to the hives should be contracted so that
a mouse cannot enter. The apartment in which the bees
are wintered, should be cleared of rats and- mice, and
every means taken to keep them out, as their running
over the hives, even if prevented from entering them,
annoys and disturbs the bees.
BIRDS.
Most birds are included in the list of enemies of bees,
but I have a word to say in favor of some of them. The
King-bird is generally placed at the head of the list of
feathered depredators. After close observation of the
habits of this bird, Iam convinced that he destroys not
only drones, but workers and queens as well. The King-
birds are most active about the apiary at those times of
the day when the drones are flying most freely. This indi-
cates to me the greatest injury they may inflict upon our
interests. The queens are then usually upon the wing to
meet the drones, and are consequently in danger of being
caught by the birds. My friend, Mr. E. D. Clark, is
quite positive that he lost several queens in one season,
in this manner. If I were rearing queens largely, and
these birds were numerous at this period, I should feel
justified in reducing their numbers, but under ordinary
circumstances, I should be slow to recommend their de-
struction.
Since writing the above, Captain Hetherington has re-
lated to me the conclusions of another gentleman, who is
a close observer. The general result of an examination
of their crops is, that the remains of the bees are in such a
mutilated condition as to be beyond identification. This
DISEASES AND ENEMIES OF BEES. -< 231
gentleman noticed a King-bird catching several bees near
the same spot, and upon close scrutiny saw small par-
ticles drop to the ground as the bird captured the bee.
Upon a careful search, he found both extremities of the
bees upon the ground, and came to the conclusion that
the bird caught the bee in such a manner as to secure the
honey-sac, and drop the remainder. While my own ex-
perience has not verified this, it does not disprove
it. Wrens are of great value in an apiary in picking up
every worm that may chance to be exposed. Every in-
ducement should be presented to attract them to the vi-
cinity of the hives. Suitable houses in which they may
build their nests should be put up in appropriate places.
Cat-birds are also worthy of passing notice. They may
be seen at nearly all hours of the day, passing from hive
to hive, picking up worms and immature bees as they are
thrown out.
ANTS, TOADS, AND SPIDERS,
Ants are undoubtedly an annoyance to the bees as well
as to their keeper. Their fondness for sweets is such
that the bees must guard their stores well, to protect
them from these tiny-‘marauders. They may usually be
driven from the hives where they congregate, by brushing
and smoking. Alcohol, applied to the parts they fre-
quent, will speedily destroy them. That toads feed upon
bees may easily be ascertained by any watchful bee-
keeper ; yet, as they are seldom, if ever, found catching
them at hours when the life of a queen would be en-
dangered, they are less obnoxious than King-birds. The
only harm that can ever be done by spiders is that the
bees will sometimes become entangled in their webs when
spun about the hive. With little care both the spiders
and their webs may be destroyed.
232 MARKETING HONEY.
CHAPTER XVI.
MAREETING HONEY.
A SUBJECT OF IMPORTANCE.
We have now reached a subject of considerable import-
ance, but which has not excited any unusual interest
until very recently. This is the more remarkable from
the fact that the appearance and condition of honey, when
put in market, has a direct effect upon the price received.
It is to be observed that not only do different markets
vary in the form of package required, but the demand
changes from year to year. Where ten years ago large
boxes, in as large cases as could conveniently be handled,
were universally sold, there has been a steady change to
smaller boxes and lighter cases. These facts make it in-
dispensable for an enterprising bee-keeper to study his
market carefully, and prepare his honey accordingly. In
connection with the demands of a more distant and gen-
eral market, we should not ignore the advantage of a
large and well supplied home trade. In addition to this,
experience proves that where the crop is not large enough
to justify shipping to a distance, it pays well to put a
wagon on the road, and deliver to consumers at their
doors, thus saving commissions and the risks of trans-
portation.
NEATNESS.
It is beyond question that, asidé from the best size of
boxes and packages, the utmost neatness and precision in
manufacture and preparation must be observed, to give
any certain brand of honey a permanent reputation among
the large dealers. To producers, who have invested time
and capital in this business to much extent, these consid-
erations are important. A standard of quality, so well
MARKETING HONEY. 233
established, that the name of the producer alone, is a
guarantee of excellence, isan achievement worthy of car-
nest effort.
OBJECTION TO LARGE CASES,
The disadvantages of too large cases for shipping box-
honey are frequently evident. I have often seen combs
broken from the boxes because the package was too heavy
to admit of its being handled with sufficient care. Cus-
tomers will often refuse to purchase large cases, even
when the honey suits them better than that in cases one-
fourth the size, and, instead of a large case, will take
four of the smaller ones to get the desired amount.
TWO-STORY CASES.
Mr. Heddon recommends cases in which two tiers of
boxes are to be placed. There are objections to this form
of case. If, from any cause, a comb in the upper tier is
broken, and leaks ever so little, the boxes below will in-
evitably become soiled. This is a sufficient argument in
favor of but one tier of boxes in a case.
SMALL CASES POPULAR.
The size of case which is coming into general use with
the best apiarians, is one that contains twelve single-comb
boxes, or six two-comb boxes. They will hold about
twenty pounds, the weight varying with the size of the
box. This case, now known as the ‘‘ Prize Crate,” has
been the favorite package in this section for several years.
In 1877, I packed a portion of my honey in still smaller
cases, each containing but six boxes weighing about ten
pounds. I had hardly packed the first one, before a party
seeing it said it was just the package he wanted for fam-
ily use. Similar expressions of approval, both before and
after they were placed in market, satisfied me that such a
234 MARKETING HONEY.
size would meet the wants of a large class of customers,
both dealers and consumers. Still later experience con-
vinces me that even a smaller case yet, will become popu-
lar. I have put up cases
of three boxes only,
weighing but five
pounds, for the New
York market, which
were much liked, and
sold well. Figure 95
shows three sizes of
cases, holding five, ten,
and twenty pounds re-
spectively. The objec-
F tions that arise are, the
trouble of handling such
. ig small packages, and ex-
Fig. 95.—THREE SIZES OF HONEY BOXES. tra cost of manufacture.
The latter is amply met by the increased popularity of the
case. To obviate the extra trouble of handling, I made
the small cases very —
light, and re-cased them
in larger ones, each hold-
ing eight, making an
average net weight of
forty pounds. The add-
ed labor and expense is
partially met by the de-
cided advantage of plac- 3%
ing our honey in a dis- ss
tant market, in a neat
and attractive condition,
the outer case prevent-
ing the inner ones from
becoming soiled. Those who have most experience in
shipping honey will see in this an advantage worthy of
EIGHT FIVE-POUND CANS RE-CASED.,
MARKETING HONEY. 235
some extra trouble. Figure 96 represents a case of
this kind.
PREPARING BOXES FOR MARKET,
All boxes should be thoroughly cleaned of any propolis
and wax that may adhere to them. The scction-boxes
must now have the glass added. The disadvantages of
putting section frames, or unglazed boxes, in market have
been enlarged upon in another chapter. There may be
markets that demand such, but in all with which I am
familiar, it is desirable to have glass on both sides. I do
not urge the glazing of each section-box from pecuniary
motives, but from the evident fact that it is more prac-
tical and agreeable to customers. The popularity of the
single-comb box should be proof of the need of ample
protection with glass. It would not be very objection-
able, with five or ten pound cases, to put glass upon but
one side of each outside box. The case is sold as a fam-
ily package, and the first box used may be taken from
the center, and the outside one moved up, thus keeping
it tolerably close. J should prefer, however, if boxes in
these smaller cases were not to be wholly glazed, to not
put any in, but glaze the sides of the case instead, thus
keeping the combs entirely free from dust and intruders.
The same suggestions would be applicable to section
frames. If box-honey has been properly cared for when
removed from the hive, it may now be prepared for
market without danger of injury from moth-worms after
being cased. One of our Bee Journals recently advised
putting honey upon the market as soon as it was taken
from the hives. This would be dangerous counsel to
follow, as it would be certain damage to future sales un-
less disposed of and consumed at once. Two-comb boxes
should have all entrances closed. For this purpose, use
a heavy quality of paper, cut the proper size, and pasted
over the openings with common flour paste.
236 MARKETING HONEY.
GRADING HONEY.
In casing honey, it should be graded closely, and each
quality packed separately. Where white honey only is
secured, it is possible that there may be but one quality ;
yet it is usually best to make two grades, even if it is sim-
ply marked, 1st and 2d. Where both white and dark
honey are gathered, it is usually necessary to make three
grades. I mark best quality, “CO,” buckwheat, <“B,”
and boxes containing a portion of each, ‘‘M,” or mixed.
PACKING HONEY.
Hach case should be weighed before being filled, and
its weight marked upon it. The honey should also be
weighed before putting it in the case. Select the desired
number of boxes, and if they do not weigh even pounds,
change a box or two for a lighter or heavier one, until
the right weight is obtained ; then fill the case and mark
the net weight upon the end. Let the combs stand
lengthwise of the case. In handling section boxes, from
the time they are first made, until ready for market, it is
well never to set them down upon the sides that are to
show when cased. When packing comb-honey to ship to
a distance, it should be placed in the cases, with the side
downwards to which the honey is most firmly secured.
MARKING CASES.
In shipping honey to large buyers, or to commission
merchants, they will usually furnish a stencil plate for
marking the address. This should be upon one end of
the case, and the shipper’s initials upon the other. The
letters indicating the quality, weight, etc., should be
placed as shown in fig. 95. The neatness and business
like accuracy with which these details are carried out,
will add much to the reputation of any producer, as well
as enhance his profits. It is wise, never to put your
MARKETING HONEY. 237
whole name and address upon your cases, unless you sell
directly to the retail dealers, as it will usually be erased
by the wholesale merchants, giving the case an untidy and
damaged appearance.
RELIABLE DEALERS.
The necessity of patronizing a strictly reliable house
cannot be too strongly impressed. It is never judicious
to allow a popular brand of honey to go into the hands
of dealers who are known to handle adulterated honey in
any form, or are in any way untrustworthy. I have re-
frained from selling my honey to such parties, even when
offered a larger cash price for it, than I could realize by
placing it in the hands of a reliable commission merchant.
Thoroughly honest and trustworthy men can be found in
every city and town, and should be sought out and
patronized. 2
MATERIAL FOR CASES.
For the ends of the case and the slats at the side I find
nothing better than basswood. The very best white bass-
wood should be procured for the purpose. The top and
bottom may be of pine, or basswood may be used for the
whole case.
MANUFACTURING CASES.
All work should be done in the neatest and most
workmanlike manner. The thickness of the ends should,
of course, vary according to the size of the cases ;
from */, inch for 5 lb. cases, to ’/, inch for a 20 Ib. case.
In shipping and storing in commission houses, where
room is limited, it is often necessary to pile the cases
several tiers high. It will be seen that they must be
strong that those at the bottom may sustain the weight
of all above them. While in New York in the fall of
1878, I saw a fine lot of honey leaking badly, caused by
238 MARKETING HONEY.
the lower tier of -cases being racked during transporta-
tion. Therefore, let all cases be not only neatly, but sub-
stantially made. At the proper place in each end, as
shown in figs. 95 and 96, a handle should be made by the
use of a wabble saw. A top and bottom, and four strips
1’/, inch wide and */, or */, inch thickness, according to
the size of the case, constitute the remaining material.
This makes a neat, convenient, and attractive case.
. TRANSPORTATION,
When circumstances will permit, I prefer shipping
honey by boat, yet I have transported it largely and safely
in an ordinary railroad freight car. This manner of ship-
ping is very commonly practised, large quantities coming
in this way from California to New York in good con-
dition. Care must be exercised to pack it properly in the
car. Select as clean a car as possible, and place upon the
bottom about two inches of dry sawdust, or straw. Place
some straw, or bags of sawdust, against the ends of the
car, and crowd the first tier of cases firmly against it,
with the ends of the cases to the end of the car, asin this
position the combs are less liable to be broken by sudden
stops and starts. Avoid putting too many in a pile, so as
not to strain the lower cases. Pack the tiers firmly to-
gether, and leave no chance for displacement. If the car
is not full, and packing is not put in at both ends, pieces
of board should be nailed across the car, about 6 inches
from the last tier of cases, and the space between the
boards and the cases packed with straw or bags of saw-
dust, the same as at the end. Small quantities may be
shipped safely by express.
PREPARING EXTRACTED HONEY FOR MARKET.
-I am confident that the market for extracted honey
will gradually improve as customers become convinced
MARKETING HONEY. 239
that granulation is a sure test of purity ; and honey in
this candied form will soon take the lead, if the nefarious
business of adulteration with glucose continues. It
should be remembered that honey containing glucose will
not become candied, and that, as a rule, all pure liquid
honey will granulate in cold climates. If pure honey is
placed in a good fruit jar, and heated to 160° and sealed
in the same manner as fruit is canned, it will remain
liquid. Customers preferring it in a liquid state, should
’ purchase the granulated honey, and liquefy it for them-
selves. Producers wishing to ship it in this form, should
patronize some thoroughly honest dealer, or seal their
packages, so that they cannot be tampered with.
PROCESS OF LIQUEFACTION.
The process of liquefying candied honey is very simple,
yet caution must be observed not to scorch it. The ves-
sel containing the honey should. be placed in a suitable
boiler, or vat, filled with water, which should be gradu-
ally raised to a temperature of 160°. If the quantity of
honey is large, it should be stirred as it melts. The ves-
sel should be raised by blocks of wood, so that the water
can pass freely under it. In my early experience in this
process, I found it possible to scorch it badly, even when
heated in water ; and great care must be exercised that
it does not heat up too rapidly.
KIND OF PACKAGE.
The package in which extracted honey will sell best
must be decided by the demand. In our home market, it
is sold largely in jelly cups and glass fruit cans ; also in
20 to 40 Ib. pails, it being cut from the pail, and sold the
same as butter. In cold weather I have known parties to
buy a small pail or tub of honey, which was candied hard,
remove the hoops and staves, and cut off the solid honey
240 MARKETING HONEY.
in portions as desired. This is more practicable than
would at first seem. In putting honey in jelly cups or
fruit cans, always furnish a standard article. We once
purchased a large quantity of second-class cans for this
purpose, bacause they were cheaper, and when brought
into competition with a popular style, the difference was
: plainly perceptible. When
cans are used, let each dis-
play an attractive label, in-
dicating the quality of the
honey, and your address.
Twelve quart cans in a case,
similar to those used for
= box honey, make a conve-
Fig. 97.—TWELVE CANS EXTRACTED yient package for handling,
aaa cs (fig. 97). At present there
is good sale for honey in casks, or firkins, holding from
150 to 200 Ibs. Such casks should be well made and
bound with wooden hoops, which should be nailed in
place, and the casks well coated inside with beeswax, be-
fore filling. To coat the casks, allow them to stand in
the sun, until they are quite warm. Apply the melted
wax while hot; pour a quart of it into a cask, and cork
tightly ; roll and turn it rapidly until every spot is cov-
ered, when the surplus wax may be poured out. The
warmer the cask, the hotter the wax, and the more ex-
peditious the work, the less wax will be required. Avoid
filling the casks too full with cold honey, for, if allowed
to stand in a warm place, the honey will expand, and
cause the cask to leak.
WINTERING. 241
CHAPTER XVII.
WINTERING.
How to winter bees successfully, has been to bee-keep-
ers their most vexatious problem, and it may be safely
asserted that failure in bee-keeping is chiefly attributable
to defective wintering. We cannot expect profitable re-
turns during the summer unless we commence the season
with thrifty colonies, and to insure this condition, they
must be properly wintered. While there is yet much to
be done before we have a perfect method of wintering, I
hope that a varied and ,extensive experience may enable
me to assist somewhat in reaching this end.
\
PREPARING BEES FOR WINTER.
The properly fitting of the colonies for winter, should be
borne in mind during the entire working season. In esti-
mating the quantity of honey required for wintering, it
must be remembered, that a swarm should be confined to
a limited number of combs. Many colonies are lost
through lack of attention to this point. A marked ad-
vantage is found here in the use of the closed-end stand-
ing-frame; this, of itself, regulates the size of the
brood-nest, which varies in proportion to the number of
frames used.
The necessary supply of honey should be contained in
five, or, at most, six combs of the Quinby size. Five
combs, averaging five pounds each, or six, with four
pounds each, will generally prove sufficient. For winter-
ing out-of-doors, an excess of five pounds should be al-
lowed, and as much less will answer for hives wintered
under cover. The outside combs will naturally contain
more than those at the center, leaving the latter with
11
242 WINTERING.
more empty cells in the proper place for occupancy by the
bees. If they are to be left out-of-doors, care must be
taken not to have these center combs too full of honey,
as the bees must cluster more compactly than when they
have warmer surroundings. Mr. Betsinger advocates
wintering in combs full of sealed honey. This is an ex-
treme which I cannot endorse, but the opposite extreme
of too much empty comb, should also be avoided. In
determining the amount of winter food, it is necessary to
know the average weight of the hive and contents, inde-
pendent of the honey; all stocks should be weighed, and
those too heavy, should exchange combs with such as are
lacking. If, from any cause, there is a deficiency, it
must be supplied as directed in the Chapter on Feeding.
The habit of the bees, of filling out with honey, cells
containing pollen, is sometimes the cause of an incorréct
estimate of the amount of honey in a hive, especially if
it has been queenless, and the pollen unconsumed by
young bees. I have furnished such combs to colonies for
winter, judging from the weight that the supply would
be ample and found, too late, that the excess of pollen
had deceived me, as the bees perished before spring for
want of honey. .At the same time that we are con-
sidering these conditions, we must aim to secure large
quantities of young bees for winter. The importance of
this consideration, cannot be over-estimated.
In the winter of 1869-70, probably more bees were lost
than in any other season in the history of bee-keeping.
Those ‘who suffered as largely as we did at that time, will
remember that the preceding season of 1869 was so poor,
that, during the latter part of it, very little, if any brood
was reared. The result was, that nearly all of the bees
that went into- winter-quarters were old. During the
spring of 1870, these old bees wasted very rapidly, as
might have been expected, and very few swarms recovered
sufficiently to store surplus honey to any extent, although
WINTERING. 243
‘the season was one of the very best, as is usually the case
after the other extreme.
In the State of Vermont 1869 was a very favorable
season. In 1870, we purchased thirty colonies there, and
moved them to our own apiary at St. Johnsville, N. Y.
Ten of these we used for the trade, and devoted the re-
mainder to surplus, of which they gave us more than the
170 swarms which we had wintered. I mention this
merely to illustrate the contrast in results from bees that
winter well, and those that are weak and feeble in spring.
Inall manipulations at this season, great care should be
observed not to injure the queen, as it is essential to suc-
cess that each colony begin the winter with a perfect, pro-
lific queen. Holes should be made with a knife through
each comb for the bees to pass through, from one to
another, without being obliged to go around the outside.
This is especially necessary if they are to be wintered
out-of-doors. Thimbles of tin, about */, inch in diame-
ter, placed in the comb, are useful for this purpose.
Where the Quinby hive with the large case is used, the
frames may be prepared for wintering in-doors, by plae-
ing them upon a
small. bottom-
board, with aquilt [igs a gi Me
or mat covering the is ic) Tt in
entire top, and the ; |
panels at the sides, i |
asinfig.98. These | ia Ls
may be arranged il Se
early in the fall, and
left standing in the
outside case, until
it is time to put =
themin. The out- Fig. 98.—FRAMES. PREPARED FOR WINTER.
side case is left on the summer stand. The quilts
may be made of unbleached muslin, and should con-
244 WINTERING.
tain about one half a roll of cotton batting. They
should be tied at intervals of three or four inches, and
sewed together at the edges. These quilts are also availa-
ble for all frame hives. All hives and stands should be
numbered, so that when set out in spring, each colony
will occupy its own location. While this is not absolutely
essential, when they are not to be taken out until spring,
it is in many respects desirable.
PERFECT QUIET ESSENTIAL.
The great necessity for leaving bees undisturbed, as far
as possible, during the entire time that they cannot gather
honey or pollen, is not fully appreciated. ‘ As good results
as have ever been reported, have been attained where bees
were wintered by burying ; yet, it is quite evident that,
aside from the one item of perfect quiet, much better
conditions may be secured than when surrounded with
damp soil. If it were not that an occasional examination
is needful, to sce that rats or mice have not affected an
entrance, or, to ascertain if the room is not unduly damp,
I would advise locking the door of the wintering apart-
ment, and not opening it again until spring. But I ad-
vise making these examinations and any needed changes
as quietly and seldom as possible. All ventilators
should be go arranged as to be regulated from the outside,
and means for ascertaining the temperature, without en-
tering the room for the purpose, should be provided, as
hereafter described.
OUT-OF-DLOOR WINTERING.
Many practical bee-keepers still advocate out-of-door
wintering, and in many instances, there is no question
but bees may be wintered upon their summer stands with
success. Unless they may be placed in a suitable apart-
ment, where the nceessary conditions can be maintained,
WINTERING, 245
IT am satisfied that it would be better to prepare tha hives
as will be described, and leave them upon their summer
stands. Yet, my experience in wintering under nearly
all circumstances, will, I think, warrant the assumption
that, all things considered, in-door wintering is preferable,
particularly in our cold climate.
If bees are to be left upon their summer stands, the
first thing necessary is, to provide the hives with ample
protection from cutting winds. If this is not afforded
naturally, a tight board fence should be built forthe pur-
pose. Many practice packing straw about the hives in
such a manner that the sun cannot, at any time, shine
upon any part of them, unless temporarily upon the
front, which is the very thing that should be avoided,
as this induces the bees to fly. Properly arranged pack-
ing at the tops and sides of frames, is often very advan-
tageous, yet, as it is generally used, I think it is the cause
of the loss of more bees than it benefits. I speak from
experimental knowledge,. having packed hundreds of.
colonies,in the Quinby hives. It will be seen by noticing
the construction of this hive, that the case is large and
that, when all boxes are removed, the space for packing is
abundant. Ihave filled this space with saw-dust, chaff,
cut and whole straw, and dearly bought experience
forces me to say, that with improper management, very
bad results come from the use of such packing. The ar-
gument offered in its favor, is, that the packing will ab-
sorb the moisture, and retain the warmth of the bees.
This is true, and it is equally true that, unless the sun is
allowed to reach this packing and evaporate the moisture,
it is the direct cause of harm.
If bees are to receive no attention, I would prefer to
risk a common box-hive with holes in the top, loosely
filled with rags or some porous substance, than those
packed with chaff or straw. Cold is not so frequent a
cause of loss in winter as many suppose, provided the
246 WINTERING.
bees have plenty of proper food, and are kept suitably
dry.* But, if proper care is taken to occasionally re-
move the roof, and often the cap or cover of the hive,
and allow the inside to receive the direct rays of the sun
to dry off all moisture, success in wintering will be much
more certain. If the case or cap be adjusted loosely, it
will afford the moisture better opportunity to escape.
Care must, of course, be exercised in taking these pre-
cautions not to jar, or in any way arouse the bees to
activity ; nor should the hive be disturbed at any time
when the temperature would induce the bees to fly. At
such times, I would prevent their flying, by shading the
hive from the sun.
IN-DOOR WINTERING.
. Dry, pure air, and a proper and even temperature, are
two prime essentials in successful wintering. These cer-
tainly can not be so perfectly controlled out-of-doors as
in a suitable in-door repository.
ARTIFICIAL HEAT. |
The necessity of being able to supply artificial heat to
aid in securing proper ventilation, temperature, and free-
dom from moisture is very generally conceded. I have
had excellent opportunities, while purchasing bees in va-
rious sections, for noticing the circumstances under
which they had been wintered, as well as the effect upon
their condition in spring, and found that in proportion
as they were aided by artificial heat, they had wintered
well, other conditions being equal. Very often, when a
cellar was dry, and a constant fire was kept above, the
most satisfactory results were attained. Mr. J. H. Buck-
lin, of Little Falls, N. Y., wintered bees in a room, par-
titioned off in a cellar, with a brick wall between it and
* I have found buckwheat chaff to be preferable to other materials for packing.
WINTERING. 244
a furnace, during the most disastrous seasons, when
nearly all the bees near him perished ; he had admirable
success.
DRYNESS.
Ican not place too much stress upon the necessity of
dry air and surroundings where bees are to be wintered.
It is generally conceded that Mr. Quinby was the first to
advocate the importance of keeping bees uniformly warm.
Could he, instead of myself, have been able to revise this
work, he would have urged the imperative need of a dry
atmosphere as well as a uniform temperature. After his
discovery that the bee, when in.a healthy condition,
voided its faeces in a dry state, he clearly saw that to aid in
carrying off the moisture, a dry atmosphere as well as a
sufficient degree of heat was indispensable. Therefore,
after experimenting with nearly every method that has
been brought to my notice, I have come to practice and
advise in-door wintering exclusively, because in no other
way can these requisites be so certainly provided. The
objection that this involves extra labor and expense is
more than met by the diminished consumption of food.
Experiments in weighing colonies monthly, both in-doors
and out, prove that bees properly provided for in-doors,
will consume from one-third to one-half less honey than
when exposed to the changeable weather of our northern
winters. This saving will more than balance any consid-
erations of extra expense.
. Objections to wintering in a cellar often arise from a
lack of understanding of some of the requisites. To
economize room, the hives are often set as close to the
wall as possible, where they absorb moisture, and become
mouldy and unhealthy. Again, they are placed upon
shelves attached to the supports of the floor above, and
are thus subjected to every jar from the room above them,
with proportionately bad results. |
248 WINTERING.
BEST ARRANGEMENT OF A CELLAR.
The part to be used for the storage of the bees should
be directly beneath a room where a fire is regularly kept.
The cellar bottom should be well laid with hydraulic ce-
ment, and the walls plastered and pointed with the same.
This cement prevents moisture from passing into the
cellar. A cellar should be most thoroughly dried when
thus prepared with cement, before bees are placed in it.
I have known very serious results ensue where this pre-
caution was not observed. It is sometimes needful to
place a stove in the wintering apartment, connecting it
with the stove-pipe above by means of the ventilating
pipe, and keep a constant fire for a month, in order to
bring it to a fit condition for use.
The room: should be closely partitioned off with
matched lumber, so that it will not admit the least ray
of light. On the sides next to the wall it should be
ceiled about one foot from it. If this is not done,
that space, at least, should be left unoccupied. The bees
would do better in a solid body in the center of the room
than close to the walls. Fresh air should be brought
into the room through a window or similar opening by
means of a tube, or air conductor, made of boards, six or
eight inches square. Let it extend to the bottom and
across the room, with holes bofed at frequent intervals,
the entire length, to distribute the air more evenly to all
parts of the room, and avoid a current to any one point,
as even a sudden rush of air is objectionable.