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AMATEUR
GARDENCRAFT

Gardening Books
By Eben E. Rexford

The Home Garden

A practical book for the use of those who own
asmall garden in which they would like to grow
vegetables and small fruits.

Eight full-page illustratiovs. 12mo. 198 pages,
cloth, ornamental, $1.25 net.

Four Seasons in the Garden

This book treats of all phases of the subject,
from the simple bed or two along the fence ina
city back ard to the most pretentious garden of
the suburban or country dweller.

Twenty-six illustrations in tint, colored frontispiece,
decorated title page and lining papers.
Crown 8vo. Cloth, $1.50 net.

Indoor Gardening

The information that is given in this book
was gained by the writer through personal work
among flowers, and the methods described have
all been successfully tried by him.

Colored froniieptace and 32 tllustrations, Decorated
title page and lining papers, Crown 8vo.
rnamental cloth, $1.50 net.

Amateur Gardencraft
A book for the home-maker and garden lover.

Colored frontispiece, 33 illustrations in tint, dec-
orated title page and lining papers. Crown
8vo. Ornamental cloth, $1.50 net.

J. B. Lippincott Company
Publishers Philadelphia

AMATEUR
GARDENCRAFT

A BOOK FOR THE HOME-MAKER
AND GARDEN LOVER

BY

EBEN E. REXFORD

WITH 34 ILLUSTRATIONS

PHILADELPHIA & LONDON

J. B|. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
1912

A.21445 \

COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY

PUBLISHED FEBRUARY, 1912

PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESB
PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A.

FOREWORD

HE home that affords the

most pleasure to its owner is
the one which is largely the
result of personal effort in
the development of its possi-
bilities. The “ ready-made
home,” if I may be allowed
the expression, may be equally as comfortable,
from the standpoint of convenience,—and possi-
bly a great deal more so,—but it invariably lacks
the charm which invests the place that has de-
veloped under our own management, by slow and
easy stages, until it seems to have become part
of ourselves.

Home-making is a process of evolution. We
take up the work when everything connected
with it is in a more or less chaotic condition,
probably without any definite plan in mind. ‘The
initial act in the direction of development, what-
ever it may be, suggests almost immediately
something else that can be done to advantage,
and in this way we go on doing little things from

day to day, until the time comes when we sud-
5

FOREWORD

denly discover what wonderful things have been
accomplished by our patient and persistent
efforts, and we are surprised and delighted at
the result. Were we to plan it all out before
beginning it, very likely the undertaking would
seem so formidable that it would discourage us.
But the evolutionary process takes place so grad-
ually, as we work hand in hand with that most
delightful of all companions, Nature, that work
becomes play, and we get more enjoyment out
of it, as it goes along, than it is possible to se-
cure in any other way if we are lovers of the
beauty that belongs about the ideal home. The
man or woman who sees little or nothing to
admire in tree, or shrub, or flower, can have no
conception of the pleasure that grows out of
planting these about the home—our home—and
watching them develop from tiny plant or seed to
the fruition of full maturity. The place casts
off the bareness which characterizes the begin-
ning of most homes, by almost imperceptible de-
grees, until it becomes a thing of beauty that
seems to have been almost a creation of our own,
because every nook and corner of it is vital with
the essence of ourselves. Whatever of labor is
connected with the undertaking is that of love

which carries with it a most delightful gratifi-
6

FOREWORD

cation as it progresses. In proportion as we
infuse into it a desire to make the most of any
and everything that will attract, and please, and
beautify, we reap the reward of our efforts.
Happy is the man who can point his friends
to a lovely home and say—‘I have done what
I could to make it what it is. J have done it—
not the professional who goes about the country
making what he calls homes at so much a day,
or by the job.” The home that somebody has
made for us never appeals to us as does the one
into which we have put ourselves. Bear that in
mind, and be wise, O friend of mine, and be your
own home-maker.

Few of us could plan out the Home Beautiful,
at the beginning, if we were to undertake to do
so. There may be a mind-picture of it as we
think we would like it to be, but we lack the
knowledge by which such results as we have in
mind are to be secured. Therefore we must be
content to begin in a humble way, and let the
work we undertake show us what to do next, as it
progresses. We may never attain to the degree
of knowledge that would make us successful if
we were to set ourselves up as professional gar-
deners, but it doesn’t matter much about that,

since that is not what we have in mind when
7

FOREWORD

we begin the work of home-making. We are
simply working by slow and easy steps toward

‘an ideal which we may never realize, but the

- ideal is constantly before us to urge us on, and
the home-instinct actuates us in all our efforts
to make the place in which we live so beautiful
that it will have for those we love, and those who
may come after us, a charm that no other place
on earth will ever have until the time comes when
they take up the work of home-making for them-
selves.

The man or woman who begins the improve-
ment and the beautifying of the home as a sort
of recreation, as so many do, will soon feel the
thrill of the delightful occupation, and be in-
spired to greater undertakings than he dreamed
of at the beginning. One of the charms of home-
making is that it grows upon you, and before
you are aware of it that which was begun without
a definite purpose in view becomes so delightfully
absorbing that you find yourself thinking about
it in the intervals of other work, and are im-
patient to get out among “the green things
growing,” and dig, and plant, and prune, and
train. You feel, I fancy, something of the enthu-
siasm that Adam must have felt when he looked

over Eden, and saw what great things were wait-
8

PILLAR-TRAINED VINES

FOREWORD

ing to be done in it. I am quite satisfied he saw
chances for improvement on every hand. God
had placed there the material for the first gar-
dener to work with, but He had wisely left it for
the other to do with it what he thought best, when
actuated by the primal instinct which makes gar-
deners of so many, if not the most, of us when
the opportunity to do so comes our way.

I do not advocate the development of the
esthetic features of the home from the stand-
point of dollars and cents. I urge it because
I believe it is the duty of the home-owner to make
it as pleasant as it can well be made, and because
I believe in the gospel of beauty as much as I
believe in the gospel of the Bible. It is the re-
ligion that appeals to the finer instincts, and calls
out and develops the better impulses of our
nature. It is the religion that sees back of every
tree, and shrub, and flower, the God that makes
all things—the God that plans—the God that
expects us to make the most and the best of all
the elements of the good and the beautiful which
He has given into our care.

In the preparation of this book I have had in
mind the fact that comparatively few home-
owners who set about the improvement of the

home-grounds know what to do, and what to
9

FOREWORD

——— —
— —

make use of. For the benefit of such persons I
have tried to give clear and definite instructions
that will enable them to work intelligently. I
have written from personal experience in the
various phases of gardening upon which I have
touched in this book. I am quite confident that
the information given will stand the test of most
thorough trial. What I have done with the
various plants I speak of, others can do if they
set about it in the right way, and with the deter-
mination of succeeding. The will will find the
way to success. I would not be understood as
intending to convey the impression that I con-
sider my way as the way. By no means. Others
have accomplished the same results by different
methods. I simply tell what I have done, and
how I have done it, and leave it to the home-
maker to be governed by the results of my experi-
ence or that of others who have worked toward
the same end. We may differ in methods, but
the outcome is, in most instances, the same. I
have written from the standpoint of the amateur,
for other amateurs who would make the improve-
ment of the home-grounds a pleasure and a
means of relaxation rather than a source of
profit in a financial sense, believing that what I

have to say will commend itself to the non-pro-
10

FOREWORD

fessional gardener as sensible, practical, and
helpful, and strictly in line with the things he
needs to know when he gets down to actual work.

I have also tried to make it plain that much
of which goes to the making of the home is not
out of reach of the man of humble means—that it
is possible for the laboring man to have a home
as truly beautiful in the best sense of the term
as the man can have who has any amount of
money to spend—that it is not the money that
we put into it that counts so much as the love for
it and the desire to take advantage of every
chance for improvement. Home, for home’s
sake, is the idea that should govern. Money can
hire the work done, but it cannot infuse into the
result the satisfaction that comes to the man who
is his own home-maker.

But not every person who reads this book will
be a home-maker in the sense spoken of above.
It will come into the hands of those who have
homes about which improvements have already
been made by themselves or others, but who take
delight in the cultivation of shrubs and plants be-
cause of love for them. Many of these persons
get a great deal of pleasure out of experiment-
ing with them. Others do not care to spend time

in experiments, but would be glad to find a short
ul

FOREWORD

cut to success. To such this book will make a
strong appeal, for I feel confident it will help
them to achieve success in gardening operations
that are new to them if they follow the instruc-
tion to be found in its pages. I have not
attempted to tell all about gardening, for there
is much about it that I have yet to learn. I ex-
pect to keep on learning as long as [I live, for
there is always more and more for us to find out
about it. That’s one of its charms. But I have
sought to impart the fundamental principles of
it as J have arrived at a knowledge of them, from
many years of labor among trees, and shrubs, and
flowers—a labor of love—and it is with a sincere
hope that I have not failed in my purpose that
T give this book to

Tuer Home-MaAkeEr AND THE GARDEN-LOVER.

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS

Tue Lawn : How to Maxe Ir ann How tro Taxes cia
OP TD is 65 6 oes sa ean ieee Vewaiae via Pes esa Sake 17
PLANTING THE LAWN ........ ccc eee cc cneceecsssensrace 34
SHRUBS oie sceeseceit eles 'ec'ela gale aeertnu Wn Condens Give viele'e sao ares 49
VINES scinciecsg oe h iS tee Gaaaarmab eieeaeey 68
Tur Harpy BorDER..........-.0c cece cece cece cence ees 81
Tue GARDEN OF ANNUALS ..... 02. e cece eee eee tee eens 97
Tue BuLs GARDEN. ....-.5 cece ec nec ence tec eeeeenesccece 116
Tus Rose: Irs Generan CarE AND CULTURE............ 128
Tue Rose as ASUMMER BEDDER.........-00ceeecceccece 149
"THE DARLYAy cada eukang ce ewes somata nneaeeeeb nds 156
PRE GUADIOU Us §:scscioraiaeaneiaies Wide Yada Motmeee Coat Vie es 166
EIS eo adeeeechaad Pine ehns cao iundemeuiee es wate 172
PLANTS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES .......... sib svete leiealeiaw «-- 176
Arspors, SuMMER-Hovusss, PERGOLAS, AND OTHER GARDEN
PRATURES s sisiiduduas eee ooo cede setae Gedewines eee an 189
CARPET-BEDDING .......00 cece eee c ce cceeeccccceuneceuce 205
FLOWERING AND Fouiace Puants ror Epaiwse Beps anp
WALKS: Sitsecwinccanie's ete cers ppeietelaerate sistetlouinis Bibb s'sa gies 216
PLANNING THE GARDEN .........-cs cece scececceecs sassws 1223
Tue Back-YARD GARDEN... ........cccccccecescccceeece 229
Tur WitD GARDEN... 2... cece eee cent cece ee eee eceeneene 234
Tre WINTER GARDEN 2... 0c ee ce ees sce ee tneetace saiviee's 243
Winpow AND VERANDA BOXES...........0-.ee000- Seaee 250
Spring WorK IN THE GARDEN.........0cccccceccccesens 257
Summer WorK IN THE GARDEN ...........0ceeeeeeceees 264
Fatt Work IN THE GARDEN...........sceceecesccsccces 268
By Way oF POSTSCRIPT .........eceeececeecee saeeeedaes 272

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
“Not WHOLLY IN THE Busy Wor.D, Nor Quite Brronp

ir, Buooms THE GarRpEN THAT I Love”... .Frontispiece

Pruyan-TRAINED VINES......... 0.0 0c eee eee teens 8
Ivy, Cusine Roses, anp Cotorapo Buus Spruce..... 34
A Brr or Inrormat BorRDER.............0. 0020 cece eee 37
SHrops ALONG THE DRIVEWAY..........2....00-0-0 eee 44
SNOW BAUD. saves /os4445 eis esis elev ndsioadewmaers eevee ceases 57
American Ivy AND GERANIUMS.............-..000-2-0005 60
HonGYSUCKURis 0045544252643 seRedeeteecnecaadresedeet 73
Japan Ivy Growine on WALL........-....00 20 cee eee ees 76
SuHrups AND PERENNIALS CoMBINED IN BorpDER.......... 83
Oup-FasHIONED HoLLYHOCKS.........-..... 202 eeeee ee eee 88
Tue Prony at Its Bust...........00. 00. cece eee 96
A Brr or THE BorDER or PERENNIAL PLANTS............ 92
A. -BED. OF ASUERS wretgooo ie hess Hoos eorneemsisiaatele leas: 106
Bep or Wurre Hyracintus BorDERED wITH PansiEs..... 125
Hyprip Perperuat Rosb............. 20. e eee eee eee eee 130
Rose TRetii6 ie. ceeaae tees ey te sda eave gaiintaiersad sees 136
RAMBGER ROS@Si55iiceul ees hSens aos eanmeineeae sie aks 142

Dororny Perkins Rose—Tue Best or tHe RamBuers.. 145
Tea ROSES 2cionacd wales ace 124 ee wate ha eehaleaicle's’s 152

ILLUSTRATIONS

A GaRDEN GLIMPSE.........0.0000-0 cee c ee ee eee een eeeaneee 170
AunAtUM. LItYig ¢o3s5 oo cie8 fe veahee ss saeeerwe aw ser sas 174
Tae Opps anp Enns CorRNER............0.2-eeee eres 180
Suman House... : 2. csc sc eces dese teed ab se aaeuicee news 191
A PEeRGOLA SUGGESTION......... 0000 e cence cece eee eeeene 195
A Smmpce Percoua FRAMEWORK...........-2-20+0eeeeees 198
GaRDENER’s Toou-HoUsE....... 10.20 eeeecere crete eee 200
A Borper or Creeping PHLOX...........02-0. eee eee 220
IN SUMMERY iin. dassbiaiareerercanmuawedy ts seudaee dy 224
AN: WINDERS ws vss sivas b ecetaeoa eae waned eae exes es shee OM 224
PORCH BOX): : 2s vss ovnakinsainenceedenunetod oeeee os esate 238
PORCH: BOXbeescdnaivienMicustee nega aesosah ens piees ons 254
Puantine to Hive FounpaTion WALLS..........2.0-0005 Q72

The Illustrations are reproduced from photographs by J. F. Murray.

————— —e

THE LAWN: HOW TO MAKE
IT AND HOW TO TAKE
CARE OF IT

HE owner of the average
small home seldom goes to
the expense of employing the
professional gardener to do
the work of lawn-making.
Sometimes he cannot afford
to do so. Sometimes skilled

labor is not obtainable. The consequence is, in

the majority of cases, the lawn,—or what, by
courtesy, is called by that name,—is a sort of
evolution which is an improvement on the orig-
inal conditions surrounding the home, but which
never reaches a satisfactory stage. We see such
lawns everywhere—rough, uneven, bare in spots,
anything but attractive in a general way, and
but little better than the yard which has been
given no attention, were it not for the shrubs
and plants that have been set out in them. The
probabilities are that if you ask the owner of
such a place why he has no lawn worth the name,

he will give one or the other of the reasons I have
2 17

THE LAWN

made mention of above as his excuse for the exist-
ing condition of things about the home. If you
ask him why he has not undertaken the work him-
self, he will most likely answer that he lacks the
knowledge necessary to the making of a fine
lawn, and rather than experiment with it he has
chosen to let it alone.

Now the fact is—lawn-making has nothing
mysterious about it, as so many seem to think.
It does not call for skilled labor. It need not be
an expensive undertaking. Any man who owns
a home that he desires to make the most of can
make himself a lawn that will be quite as satis-
factory, in nearly every instance, as the one made
by the professional gardener—more so, in fact,
since what we make for ourselves we appreciate
much more than that which we hire made for us.
The object of this paper is to assist home-makers
in doing just this kind of work. I shall endeavor
to make it so plain and practical that anyone so
inclined can do all that needs doing in a satisfac-
tory manner. It may not have that nicety of
finish, when completed, that characterizes the
work of the professional, but it will harmonize
with its surroundings more perfectly, perhaps,
and will afford us quite as much pleasure as the

work of the expert.
18

THE LAWN

If the house has just been built, very likely
everything about it is in a more or less chaotic
condition. Odds and ends of lumber, mortar,
brick, and all kinds of miscellaneous building ma-
terial scattered all over the place, the ground
uneven, treeless, shrubless, and utterly lacking in
all the elements that go to make a place pleasing
and attractive. Out of this chaos order must be
evolved, and the evolution may be satisfactory
in every way—if*we only begin right.

The first thing to do is to clear away all the
rubbish that clutters up the place. Do not make
the mistake of dumping bits of wood into hollows
with the idea that you are making a good founda-
tion for a lawn-surface. This wood will decay in
a year or two, and there will be a depression
there. Fill into the low places only such matter
as will retain its original proportions, like brick
and stone. Make kindling-wood of the rubbish
from lumber, or burn it. Get rid of it in some
way before you begin operations. What you
want, at this stage of the proceedings, is a ground
entirely free from anything that will interfere
with grading the surface of it.

If the lot upon which the house stands is a
comparatively level one—or rather, was, before

the house was built—it is generally easy to secure
19

THE LAWN

a slope from the house on all sides, by filling in
about the building with the soil thrown up from
the cellar or in making excavation for the walls.
If no excavation of any kind has been made—and
quite often, nowadays, foundation walls are
built on the ground instead of starting a foot or
two below the surface,—a method never to be
advised because of the risk of injury to the build-
ing from the action of frost in the soil,—it may be
necessary to make the lot evenly level, unless one
goes to the expense of filling in. A slight slope
away from the house-walls is always desirable, as
it adds vastly to the general effect. Knough soil
to secure this slope will not cost a great deal, if
it does not happen to be at hand, and one will
never regret the outlay.

If the ground is very uneven, it is well to have
it ploughed, and afterward harrowed to pulverize
the soil and secure a comparatively level surface.
Do not be satisfied with one harrowing. Go over
it again and again until not a lump or clod re-
mains in it. The finer the soil is before seed is
sown the better will be the sward you grow
on it.

If the surface of the yard is not uneven, all the
grading necessary can be done by spading up the

soil to the depth of a foot, and then working it
20

THE -_LAWN

over thoroughly with, first, a heavy hoe to break
apart the lumps, and then an iron rake to pul-
verize it.

I say nothing about drainage because not one
lot-owner in a hundred can be prevailed on to go
to the trouble and expense of arranging for it.
If I were to devote a dozen pages to this phase
of the work, urging that it be given careful atten-
tion, my advice would be ignored. The matter of
drainage frightens the home-maker out of under-
taking the improvement of the yard, nine times
out of ten, if you urge its importance upon him.
If the location is a rather low one, however, it is
a matter that ought not to be overlooked, but it
is not so important if the lot is high enough for
water to run off speedily after a shower. If any
system of drainage is arranged for, I would ad-
vise turning the work over to the professionals,
who thoroughly understand what ought to be
done and how to do it. This is a matter in which
the amateur must work to a disadvantage when
he undertakes to do it for himself.

If there are hollows and depressions, fill them
by levelling little hummocks which may be found
on other parts of the ground, or by having soil
drawn in from outside. In filling low places,

beat the soil down solidly as you add it. Unless
au

THE LAWN

this is done—and done well—the soil you add will
settle, after a little, and the result will be a de-
pression—not as deep as the original one, of
course, but still a depression that will make a
low place that will be very noticeable. But by
packing and pounding down the earth as you fill
it in, it can be made as solid as the soil surround-
ing it, and in this way all present and future
unevenness of the soil can be done away with. It
is attention to such details as these that makes
a success of the work, and I would urge upon
the amateur lawn-maker the absolute necessity of
working slowly and carefully, and slighting noth-
ing. Undue haste and the lack of thoroughness
will result in a slovenly job that you will be
ashamed of, before it is done, and so disgusted
with, on completion, that you will not feel like
doing the work over again for fear another effort
may be more unsatisfactory than the first one.
Therefore do good work in every respect as you
go along, and the work you do will be its own
reward when done.

It is impossible to put too much work on the
soil. That is—you cannot make it too fine and
mellow. The finer it is the finer the sward will
be. A coarse, lumpy soil will always make an

unsatisfactory lawn-surface.
29

THE LAWN

Most soils will need the addition of consider-
able manure, and poor ones will need a good deal.
To secure a strong, luxuriant stand of grass it is
very essential that it should be fed well. While
grass will grow almost anywhere, it is only on
rich soils that you see it in perfection, and the
ideal lawn demands a sward as nearly perfect as
possible.

But I would not advise the use of barnyard
manure, for this reason: It contains the seeds of
the very weeds you must keep out of your lawn
if you would have it what it ought to be,—weeds
that will eventually ruin everything if not got
rid of, like Dandelion, Burdock, and Thistle, to
say nothing of the smaller plants that are harder
to fight than those I have made mention of. We
cannot be too careful in guarding against these
trespassers which can be kept out much easier
than they can be put to rout after they have
secured a foothold. Therefore I would urge the
substitution of a commercial fertilizer for barn-
yard manure in every instance. Scatter it liber-
ally over the soil as soon as spaded, or ploughed,
and work it in with the harrow or the hoe or rake,
when you are doing the work of pulverization.

If you do not understand just what kind of

fertilizer to make use of, tell the dealer as nearly
98

THE LAWN

as you can the nature of the soil you propose to
use it on, and he will doubtless be able to supply
you with the article you require. It is always
safe to trust to the judgment of the man who
knows just what a fertilizer will do, as to the kind
and quantity to make use of. Soils differ so
widely that it is not possible to advise a fertilizer
that will give satisfaction everywhere. This be-
ing the case, I advise you to consult local authori-
ties who understand the adaptation of fertilizers
to soils before making a choice.

April is a good month in which to seed the
lawn. Sois May, for that matter, but the sooner
the grass gets a start the better, for early starting
will put it in better condition to withstand the
effects of midsummer heat because it will have
more and stronger roots than later-sown grass
can have by the time a demand is made upon its
vitality.

Sowing lawn-grass seed evenly is an undertak-
ing that most amateurs fail in. The seed is light
as chaff, and every puff of wind, no matter how
light, will carry it far and wide. Choose a still
day, if possible, for sowing, and cross-sow. That
is—sow from north to south, and then from east
to west. In this way you will probably be able

to get the seed quite evenly distributed. Hold
24

THE LAWN

the hand close to the ground, filled with seed, and
then, as you make a circular motion from right to
left, and back again, let the seed slip from be-
tween your fingers as evenly as possible. ‘A little
experimenting along this line will enable you to
do quite satisfactory work. You may use up a
good deal of seed in experimenting, but that will
not matter. One common mistake in lawn-mak-
ing is to use too little seed. A thinly-seeded lawn
will not give you a good sward the first season,
but a thickly-seeded one will. In fact, it will
have that velvety look which is one of the chief
charms of any lawn, after its first mowing. I
would advise you to tell the dealer of whom you
purchase seed the size of your lot, and let him
decide on the quantity of seed required to make
a good job of it.

In buying seed get only the very best on the
market. But only of reliable dealers. By “ re-
liable dealers ” I mean such firms as have estab-
lished a reputation for honesty and fair dealing
all along the line. Such dealers have to live up
to their reputations, and they will not work off
upon you an inferior article as the dealer who
has, as yet, no reputation to live up to may, and
often does, charging you for it a price equal to, or

beyond, that which the honest dealer would ask
25

THE LAWN

for his superior grade of seed. In order to have
a fine sward it is absolutely necessary that you
must have good seed. Cheap seed—and that
means poor seed, always—does not contain the
varieties of grasses necessary to the making of
a rich, deep, velvety sward, and it almost always
does contain the seeds of noxious weeds which
will make your lawn a failure. Therefore patron-
ize the dealers in whose honesty you have ample
reason to have entire confidence, and buy the
very best seed,they have in stock.

After sowing, roll the surface of the lawn to
imbed the seed in the soil, and make the ground
firm enough about it to retain sufficient moisture
to insure germination. In three or four days the
tiny blades ought to begin to show. In a week
the surface will seem covered with a green mist,
and in a fortnight’s time you will be able to see,
with a little exercise of the imagination, the kind
of lawn you are going to have. If the season is
a dry one it may be well to sprinkle the soil every
day, after sundown. Use water liberally, and
keep on doing so until rain comes or the plants
have taken hold of the moister soil below with
their delicate feeding-roots.

I would not advise mowing until the grass is

at least three inches high. Then clip lightly with
96

THE LAWN

a sharp-bladed mower. Just cut away the top of
the grass. To mow close, while the grass is get-
ting a start, is the worst thing you can do. When
it begins to thicken up by stooling out, then, and
not till then, will you be warranted in setting the
mower so that it will cut closely. But never
shear the sward, as some do. You will never have
a turf like velvet if you do that. Let there be an
inch and a half or two inches of the grass-blade
left.

‘The importance of having good tools to work
with, in taking care of the lawn, ought not to be
overlooked. A mower whose blades are dull will
tear the grass off, and make it look ragged, as if
gnawed away by animals feeding on it, while the
mower whose blades are of the proper sharpness
will cut it as evenly and as neatly as if a razor
had been applied to it. You cannot appreciate
the difference until you have seen a specimen of
each, and compared them.

Some persons advocate raking the lawn after
each mowing. Others advise leaving the clip-
pings to act as a sort of mulch. If the clippings
are allowed to remain, they wilt, and this will
detract from the appearance of the sward for a
short time, but by the next day they will not be

noticeable. Raking as soon as mowed makes the
or

THE LAWN

lawn more immediately presentable. I have
never been able to see any great deal of differ-
ence in the two methods, except as to appear-
ance, therefore I would advise the lawn-owner to
try both methods and adopt the one that pleases
him most. If a rake is used, let it be one with
blunt teeth that will not tear the sward. There
is such a rake on the market, its teeth being made
of bent wire. Onno account use a sharp-toothed
ironrake. That is sure to injure the sward.

Be regular in your attention to the lawn. Do
not let the grass get so tall that the mower will
not do a good job in cutting it. This necessitates
mowing at regular intervals. If you mow only
once a week, I would advise the use of the rake,
as long grass-clippings are always unsightly be-
cause they remain on top of the sward, while
short clippings from frequent mowing sink into
it, and are soon out of sight.

In case the lawn is neglected for a week or
more, once going over it with the mower will not
make it very presentable. Mow, and then rake,
and then go over it again, cutting across the first
swaths. The second cutting will result in an
even surface, but it will not be as satisfactory as
that secured by regular mowings, at intervals of

two or three days.
98

THE LAWN

— —— —— —
= —— —

It is a most excellent plan to scatter bonemeal
over the surface of the lawn in midsummer, and
again in fall. Use the fine meal, as the coarse
article is not readily assimilated by the soil.
There is little danger of using enough to injure
the sward. Injury generally results from not
using any.

Many lawn-owners, with a mistaken idea of
neatness, rake up the leaves that scatter them-
selves over the sward in fall, thus removing the
protection that Nature has provided for the grass.
Do not do this. Allow them to remain all winter.
They will be entirely hidden by the snow, if any
falls, and if there is none they are not unsightly,
when you cease to think of them as litter. You
will appreciate the difference between a fall-
raked lawn and one on which leaves have been
allowed to remain over winter, when spring
comes. ‘The lawn without protection will have a
brown, scorched look, while the other will begin
to show varying tints of green as soon as the snow
melts. Grass is hardy, and requires no protec-
tion to prevent winter-killing, but a covering,
though slight, saves enough of its vitality to make
it well worth while to provide it.

The ideal lawn is one in which no weeds are

found. But I have never seen such a lawn, and
29

THE LAWN

never expect to. It is possible to keep weeds
from showing much if one has a thick, fine sward,
but keen eyes will discover them without much
trouble. Regular and careful mowings will keep
them within bounds, and when the leaves of large-
foliaged plants like the Burdock and Thistle are
not allowed to develop they do not do a great deal
of harm except in the drain they make upon the
soil. Generally, after repeated discouragements
of their efforts to assert themselves, they pine
away and finally disappear. But there will be
others always coming to take their places, espe-
cially in the country, and their kindred growing
in the pastures and by the roadside will ripen seed
each season to be scattered broadcast by the wind.
This being the case, the impossibility of entirely
freeing a lawn from weeds by uprooting them or
cutting them off will be readily apparent. One
would have to spend all his time in warfare
against them, on even a small lawn, if he were to
set out to keep them from growing there. There-
fore about all one can do to prevent large weeds
from becoming unsightly is to constantly curb
their aspirations by mowing them down as soon
as they reach a given height.

The Dandelion and the Plantain are probably

the worst pests of all, because their seeds fill the
30

THE LAWN

air when they ripen, and settle here, there, and
everywhere, and wherever they come in contact
with the ground they germinate, and a colony of
young plants establishes itself. Because the Bur-
dock and Thistle attempt to develop an up-reach-
ing top it is an easy matter to keep them down by
mowing, but the Dandelion and Plantain hug the
soil so closely that the mower slips over them
without coming in contact with their crowns, and
so they live on, and on, and spread by a multipli-
cation of their roots until they often gain entire
possession of the soil, in spots. When this hap-
pens, the best thing to do is to spade up the patch,
and rake every weed-root out of it, and then re-
seed it. If this is done early in spring the newly-
seeded place will not be noticeable by mid-
summer.

We frequently see weed-killers advertised in
the catalogues of the florist. Most, if not all, of
them will do all that is claimed for them, but—
they will do just as deadly work on the grass, if
they get to it, as they do on the weed, therefore
they are of no practical use, as it is impossible
to apply them to weeds without their coming in
contact with the sward.

Ants often do great damage to the lawn by

burrowing under the sward and throwing up
s1

THE LAWN

— = —
= —= —

great hummocks of loose soil, thus killing out
large patches of grass where they come to the
surface. It is a somewhat difficult matter to dis-
lodge them, but it can sometimes be done by cov-
ering the places where they work with powdered
borax to the depth of half an inch, and then
applying water to carry it down into the soil.
Repeat the operation if necessary. Florists ad-
vertise liquids which are claimed to do this work
effectively, but I have had no occasion to test
them, as the borax application has never failed
to rout the ant on my lawn, and when I find a
remedy that does its work well I depend upon
it, rather than experiment with something of
whose merits I know nothing. “ Prove all things
and hold fast to that which is good.”

Fighting the ant is an easier matter than ex-
terminating weeds, as ant-hills are generally
localized, and it is possible to get at them without
injuring a large amount of sward as one cannot
help doing when he applies liquids to weeds.
The probabilities are, however, that ants cannot
be entirely driven away from the lawn after they
have taken possession of it. They will shift their
quarters and begin again elsewhere. But you
can keep them on the run by repeated applica-

tions of whatever proves obnoxious to them, and
32

THE LAWN

in this way you can prevent their doing a great
deal of harm. To be successful in this you will
have to be constantly on the lookout for them, and
so prompt in the use of the weapons you employ
against them that they are prevented from be-
coming thoroughly established in new quarters.

PLANTING THE LAWN

~~ | HEN the lawn is made we
begin to puzzle over the
planting of trees and
shrubbery.

What shall we have?

Where shall we have it?
} One of the commonest
mistakes made by the man who is his own gar-
dener is that of over-planting the home-grounds
with trees and shrubs. This mistake is made be-
cause he does not look ahead and see, with the
mind’s eye, what the result will be, a few years
from now, of the work he does to-day.

The sapling of to-day will in a short time
become a:tree of good size, and the bush that
seems hardly worth considering at present will
develop into a shrub three, four, perhaps six feet
across. If we plant closely, as we are all in-
clined to because of the small size of the material
we use at planting time, we will soon have a
thicket, and it will be necessary to sacrifice most
of the shrubs in order to give the few we leave

sufficient room to develop in. Therefore do not
34

IVY, CLIMBING ROSES, AND COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE

THE LAWN

think, when you set out plants, of their present
size, but of the sizc they will have attained to five
or six years from now. Do not aim at immediate
effect, as most of us do in our impatience for
results. Be content to plant—and wait. I shall
give no diagrams for lawn-planting for two
reasons. The first one is—no two places are ex-
actly alike, and a diagram prepared for one
would have to be so modified in order to adapt it
to the needs of the other that it would be of little
value, save in the way of suggestion, and I think
suggestions of a general character without the
diagram will be found most satisfactory. The
second reason is—few persons would care to
duplicate the grounds of his neighbor, and this he
would be obliged to do if diagrams were depended
on. Therefore I advise each home-owner to
plant his lawn after plans of his own prepara-
tion, after having given careful consideration to
the matter. Look about you. Visit the lawns
your neighbors have made, and discover wherein
they have made mistakes. Note wherein they
have been successful. And then profit by their
experience, be it that of success or failure.

Do not make the mistake of planting trees
and shrubs in front of the house, or between it

and the street. Place them somewhere to the
35

PLANTING

side, or the rear, and leave a clear, open sweep
of lawn in front of the dwelling. Enough un-
broken space should be left there to give the sense
of breadth which will act as a division between
the public and the private. Scatter shrubs and
flower-beds over the lawn and you destroy that
impression of distance which is given by even a
small lawn when there is nothing on it to interfere
with the vision, as we look across it.

Relegate shrubs to the sides of the lot, if you
can conveniently do so, being careful to give the
larger ones locations at the point farthest from
the street, graduating them toward the front of
the lot according to their habit of growth. Aim
to secure a background by keeping the big fel-
lows where they cannot interfere with the out-
look of the little ones,

If paths are to be made, think well before de-
ciding where they shall be. Some persons prefer
a straight path from the street to the house. This
saves steps, but it gives the place a prim and
formal look that is never pleasing. It divides
the yard into two sections of equal importance,
where it is advisable to have but one if we would
make the most of things. In other words, it
halves things, thus weakening the general effect

greatly. A straight path is never a graceful one,
36

A BIT OF INFORMAL BORDER

THE LAWN

A curving path will make you a few more steps,
but so much will be gained by it, in beauty, that
I feel sure you will congratulate yourself on hav-
ing chosen it, after you have compared it with
the straight path of your neighbor. It will allow
you to leave the greater share of the small lawn
intact, thus securing the impression of breadth
that is so necessary to the best effect.

I have spoken of planting shrubs at the sides
of the home-lot. If this is done, we secure a sort
of frame for the home-picture that will be ex-
tremely pleasing. If the shrubs near the street
are small and low, and those beyond them in-
crease in breadth and height as they approach the
rear of the lot, with evergreens or trees as a back-
ground for the dwelling, the effect will be de-
lightful. Such a general plan of planting the
home-grounds is easily carried out. The most
important feature of it to keep in mind is that of
locating your plants in positions that will give
each one a chance to display its charms to the
best effect, and this you can easily do if you read
the catalogues and familiarize yourself with the
heights and habits of them.

If your lot adjoins that of a neighbor who has
not yet improved his home-grounds, I would ad-

vise consulting with him, and forming a partner-
37

PLANTING

ship in improvement-work, if possible. If you
proceed after a plan of your own on your side of
the fence, and he does the same on his side, there
may be a sad lack of harmony in the result. But
if you talk the matter over together the chances
are that you can formulate a plan that will be
entirely satisfactory to both parties, and result
in that harmony which is absolutely necessary to
effective work. Because, you see, both will be
working together toward a definite design, while
without such a partnership of interests each
would be working independently, and your ideas
of the fitness of things might be sadly at variance
with those of your neighbor.

Never set your plants in rows. Nature never
does that, and she doesn’t make any mistakes. If
you want an object-lesson in arrangement, go
into the fields and pastures, and along the road,
and note how she has arranged the shrubs she has
planted there. Here a group, there a group, in
a manner that seems to have had no plan back of
it, and yet I feel quite sure she planned out very
carefully every one of these clumps and combina-
tions. ‘The closer you study Nature’s methods
and pattern after them the nearer you will come
to success.

Avoid formality as you would the plague if

38

THE LAWN

you want your garden to afford you all the pleas-
ure you can get out of it. Nature’s methods are
always restful in effect because they are so sim-
ple and direct. They never seem premeditated.
Her plants “ just grow,” like the Topsy of Mrs.
Stowe’s book, and no one seems to have given any
thought to the matter. But in order to success-
fully imitate Nature it is absolutely necessary
that we familiarize ourselves, as I have said, with
her ways of doing things, and we can only do this
by studying from her books as she opens them
for us in every field, and by the roadside, and
the woodland nook. The secret of success, in a
word, lies in getting so close to the heart of Na-
ture that she will take us into her confidence and
tell us some of her secrets.

One of the best trees for the small lawn is the
Cut-Leaved Birch. It grows rapidly, is always
attractive, and does not outgrow the limit of the
ordinary lot. Its habit is grace itself. Its white-
barked trunk, slender, pendant branches, and
finely-cut foliage never fail to challenge admira-
tion. In fall it takes on a coloring of pale gold,
and is more attractive than ever. In winter its
delicate branches show against a background of
blue sky with all the delicacy and distinctness

of an etching. No tree that I know of is hardier.
39

PLANTING

The Mountain ‘Ash deserves a place on all
lawns, large or small. Its foliage is very attrac-
' tive, as are its great clusters of white flowers in
spring. When its fruit ripens, the tree is as
showy as anything can well be. And, like the
Cut-Leaved Birch, it is ironclad in its hardiness.
It is an almost ideal tree for small places.

The Japanese Maples are beautiful trees, of
medium size, very graceful in habit, and rapid
growers. While not as desirable for a street tree
as our native Maple, they will give better satis-
faction on the lawn.

The Purple-Leaved Beech is exceedingly
showy, and deserves a place on every lawn, large
or small. In spring its foliage is a deep purple.
In summer it takes on a crimson tinge, and in fall
it colors up like bronze. It branches close to the
ground, and should never be pruned to form a
head several feet from the ground, like most
other trees. Such treatment will mar, if not
spoil, the attractiveness of it.

Betchel’s Crab, which grows to be of medium
size, is one of the loveliest things imaginable
when in bloom. Its flowers, which are double,
are of a delicate pink, with a most delicious fra-
grance.

The White-Flowering Dogwood (Cornus
40

THE LAWN

florida) will give excellent results wherever
planted. Its white blossoms are produced in
great abundance early in spring—before its
leaves are out, in fact—and last for a long time.
Its foliage is a gray-green, glossy and hand-
some in summer, and in fall a deep, rich red, mak-
ing it a wonderfully attractive object at that
season.

The Judas Tree (Redbud) never grows to be
large. Its lovely pink blossoms appear in spring
before its heart-shaped leaves are developed.
Very desirable.

Salisburia (Maiden-Hair). This is an elegant
little tree from Japan. Its foliage is almost
fern-like in its delicacy. It is a free grower, and
in every respect desirable.

Among our larger trees that are well adapted
to use about the house, the Elm is the most grace-
ful. It is the poet of the forest, with its wide-
spreading, drooping branches, its beautiful foli-
age, and grace in every aspect of its stately form.

As a street-tree the Maple is unexcelled. It is
of rapid growth, entirely hardy anywhere at the
north, requires very little attention in the way of
pruning, is never troubled by insects, and has the
merit of great cleanliness. It is equally valuable

for the lawn. In fall, it changes its summer-
41

PLANTING

green for purest gold, and is a thing of beauty
until it loses its last leaf.

The Laurel-Leaved Willow is very desirable
where quick results are wanted. Its branches
frequently make a growth of five and six feet in
a season. Its leaves are shaped like those of
the European Laurel,—hence its specific name,—
with a glossy, dark-green surface. It is prob-
ably the most rapid grower of all desirable lawn
trees. Planted along the roadside it will be found
far more satisfactory than the Lombardy Poplar
which is grown so extensively, but which is never
pleasing after the first few years of its life, be-
cause of its habit of dying off at the top.

The Box Elder (Ash-Leaved Maple) is another
tree of very rapid growth. It has handsome
light-green foliage, and a head of spreading and
irregular shape when left to its own devices, but
it can be made into quite a dignified tree with
a little attention in the way of pruning. I like
it best, however, when allowed to train itself,
though this would not be satisfactory where the
tree is planted along the street. It will grow
anywhere, is hardy enough to stand the severest
climate, and is of such rapid development that
the first thing you know the little sapling you set

out is large enough to bear seed,
42

THE LAWN

I like the idea of giving each home a back-
ground of evergreens. This for two reasons—to
bring out the distinctive features of the place
more effectively than it is possible to without
such a background, and to serve as a wind-break.
If planted at the rear of the house, they answer
an excellent purpose in shutting away the view of
buildings that are seldom sightly. The best
variety for home-use, all things considered, is the
Norway Spruce. This grows to be a stately tree
of pyramidal habit, perfect in form, with heavy,
slightly pendulous branches from the ground up.
Never touch it with the pruning-shears unless
you want to spoil it. The Colorado Blue Spruce
is another excellent variety for general planting,
with rich, blue-green foliage. It is a free-grower,
and perfectly hardy. The Douglas Spruce has
foliage somewhat resembling that of the Hem-
lock. Its habit of growth is that of a cone, with
light and graceful spreading branches that give it
a much more open and airy effect than is found in
other Spruces. The Hemlock Spruce is a most
desirable variety for lawn use where a single
specimen is wanted. Give it plenty of room in
which to stretch out its slender, graceful branches
and I think it will please you more than any

other evergreen you can select.
43

PLANTING

It must not be inferred that the list of trees
of which mention has been made includes all that
are desirable for planting about the home. There
are others of great merit, and many might prefer
them to the kinds I have spoken of. I have made
special mention of these because I know they will
prove satisfactory under such conditions as ordi-
narily prevail about the home, therefore they are
the kinds I would advise the amateur gardener
to select in order to attain the highest degree of
success. Give them good soil to grow in, and
they will ask very little from you in the way of
attention. They are trees that anybody can
grow, therefore trees for everybody.

In planting a tree care must be taken to get it
as deep in the ground as it was before it was
taken from the nursery. If a little deeper no
harm will be done.

Make the hole in which it is to be planted so
large that all its roots can be spread out evenly
and naturally.

Before putting it in place, go over its roots and
cut off the ends of all that were severed in taking
itup. Usea sharp knife in doing this, and make
a clean, smooth cut. ‘A callus will form readily
if this is done, but not if the ends of the large

roots are left in a ragged, mutilated condition,
rm

SHRUBS ALONG THE DRIVEWAY

THE LAWN

When the trees are received from the nursery
they will be wrapped in moss and straw, with bur-
lap about the roots. Do not unpack them until
you are ready to plant them. If you cannot do
this as soon as they are received, put them in the
cellar or some other cool, shady place, and pour
a pailful of water over the wrapping about the
roots. Never unpack them and leave their roots
exposed to the air for any length of time. If they
must be unpacked before planting, cover their
roots with damp moss, wet burlap, old carpet, or
blankets,—anything that will protect them from
the air and from drying out. But—get them into
the ground as soon as possible.

When the tree is in the hole made for it, cover
the roots with fine soil, and then settle this down
among the roots by jarring the trunk, or by
churning the tree up and down carefully. After
doing this, and securing a covering for all the
roots, apply a pailful or two of water to firm the
soil well. I find this more effective than firming
the soil with the foot, as it prevents the possibility
of loose planting.

Then fill the hole with soil, and apply three or
four inches of coarse manure from the barnyard
to serve as a mulch. This keeps the soil moist,

which is an important item, especially if the
45

PLANTING

season happens to be a dry one. If barnyard
manure is not obtainable, use leaves, or grass-
clippings—anything that will shade the soil and
retain moisture well.

Where shall we plant our trees?

This question is one that we often find it diffi-
cult to answer, because we are not familiar
enough with them to know much about the effect
they will give after a few years’ development.
Before deciding on a location for them I would
advise the home-maker to look about him until
he finds places where the kinds he proposes to
use are growing. ‘Then study the effect that is
given by them under conditions similar to those
which prevail on your own grounds. Make a
mental transfer of them to the place in which
you intend to use them. This you can do with
the exercise of a little imagination. When you
see them growing on your own grounds, as you
can with the mind’s eye, you can tell pretty
nearly where they ought to be planted. You
will get more benefit from object-lessons of this
kind than from books.

On small grounds I would advise keeping them
well to the sides of the house. If any are planted
in front of the house they will be more satis-

factory if placed nearer the street than the
46

THE LAWN

house. They should never be near enough to the
dwelling to shade it. Sunshine about the house
is necessary to health as well as cheerfulness.

Trees back of the dwelling are always pleasing.
Under no circumstances plant them in prim rows,
or just so many feet apart. This applies to all
grounds, large or small, immediately about the
house. But if the place is large enough to admit
of a driveway, a row of evergreens on each side
of it can be made an attractive feature.

The reader will understand from what I have
said that no hard-and-fast rules as to where to
plant one’s trees can be laid down, because of the
wide difference of conditions under which the
planting must be made. Each home-owner must
decide this matter for himself, but I would urge
that no decision be made without first familiariz-
ing yourself with the effect of whatever trees
you select as you can see them growing on the
grounds of your neighbors.

Do not make the mistake of planting so thickly
that a jungle will result after a few years. In
order to do itself justice, each tree must have
space enough about it, on all sides, to enable it to
display its charms fully. This no tree can do
when crowded in among others. One or two fine

large trees with plenty of elbow-room about them
aT

PLANTING THE LAWN

will afford vastly more satisfaction than a dozen
trees that dispute the space with each other. Here
again is proof of what I have said many times in
this book, that quality is what pleases rather than
quantity.

If any trees are planted in front of the house,
choose kinds having a high head, so that there
will be no obstruction of the outlook from the
dwelling.

VERY yard ought to have its
quota of shrubs. They give
to it a charm which nothing
else in the plant-line can sup-
ply, because they have a
greater dignity than the
perennial and the annual

plant, on account of size, and the fact that they

are good for many years, with very little care,
recommends them to the home-maker who cannot
give a great deal of attention to the garden and
the home-grounds. It hardly seems necessary to
say anything about their beauty. That is one of
the things that “goes without saying,” among
those who see, each spring, the glory of the Lilacs
and the Spireas, and other shrubs which find a
place in “everybody’s garden.” On very small
ground the larger-growing shrubs take the place
of trees quite satisfactorily. Indeed, they are
preferable there, because they are not likely to
outgrow the limits assigned them, as trees will in
time, and they do not make shade enough to bring

about the unsanitary conditions which are almost
4 49

SHRUBS

always found to exist in small places where trees,
planted too thickly at first, have made a strong
development. Shade is a pleasing feature of a
place in summer, but there is such a thing as
having too much of it. We frequently see places
in which the dwelling is almost entirely hidden
by a thicket of trees, and examination will be
pretty sure to show that the house is damp, and
the occupants of it unhealthy. Look at the roof
and you will be quite sure to find the shingles
covered with green moss. The only remedy for
such a condition of things is the thinning out or
removal of some of the trees, and the admission of
sunlight. Shrubs can never be charged with pro-
ducing such a state of things, hence my prefer-
ence for them on lots where there is not much
room. Vines can be used upon the walls of the
dwelling and about the verandas and porches in
such a way as to give all the shade that is needed,
and, with a few really fine specimens of shrubs
scattered about the grounds, trees will not be
likely to be missed much.

I would not be understood as discouraging the
planting of trees on grounds where there is ample
space for their development. A fine tree is one
of the most beautiful things in the world, but it

must be given a good deal of room, and that is
50

SHRUBS

just what cannot be done on the small city or
village lot. Another argument in favor of shrubs
is—they will be in their prime a few years after
planting, while a tree must have years to grow
in. And a shrub generally affords considerable
pleasure from the start, as it will bloom when
very small. Many of them bloom the first season.

In locating shrubs do not make the mistake
of putting them between the house and the street,
unless for the express purpose of shutting out
something unsightly either of buildings or thor-
oughfare. ‘A small lawn loses its dignity when
broken up. by trees, shrubs, or flower-beds. Left
to itself it imparts a sense of breadth and distance
which will make it seem larger than it really is.
Plant things all over it and this effect is de-
stroyed. I have said this same thing in other
chapters of this book, and I repeat it with a
desire to so impress the fact upon the mind of the
home-maker that he cannot forget it, and make
the common mistake of locating his shrubbery or
his flower-gardens in the front yard.

The best location for shrubs on small lots is
that which I have advised for hardy plants—
along the sides of the lot, or at the rear of it, far
enough away from the dwelling, if space will

permit, to serve as a background for it. Of
51

SHRUBS

course no hard-and-fast rule can be laid down,
because lots differ so widely in size and shape,
and the houses we build on them are seldom
found twice in the same place. I am simply
advising in a general way, and the advice will
have to be modified to suit the conditions which
exist about each home.

Do not set your shrubs out after any formal
fashion—just so far apart, and in straight rows
—as so many do. Formality should be avoided
whenever possible.

I think you will find the majority of them most
satisfactory when grouped. That is, several of
a kind—or at least of kinds that harmonize in
general effect—planted so close together that,
when well developed, they form one large mass
of branches and foliage. I do not mean, by this,
that they should be crowded. Give each one
ample space to develop in, but let them be near
enough to touch, after a little.

If it is proposed to use different kinds in
groups, one must make sure that he understand
the habit of each, or results will be likely to be
most unsatisfactory. The larger-growing kinds
must be given the centre or the rear of the group,
with smaller kinds at the sides, or in front. The

season of flowering and the peculiarities of
52

SHRUBS

qaesaaa—————_————_—_______========anhBRnRan9|j{aja=a==

branch and foliage should also be given due con-
sideration. If we were to plant a Lilac with its
stiff and rather formal habit among a lot of
Spireas, all slender grace and delicate foliage,
the effect would be far from pleasing. The two
shrubs have nothing in common, except beauty,
and that is so dissimilar that it cannot be made to
harmonize. There must be a general harmony.
This does not mean that there may not be plenty
of contrast. Contrast and harmony are not con-
tradictory terms, as some may think.

‘Therefore read up in the catalogues about the
shrubs you propose to make use of before you
give them a permanent place in the yard.

Also, take a look ahead.

The plant you procure from the nursery will
be small. So small, indeed, that if you leave
eight or ten feet between it and the next one you
set out, it will look so lonesome that it excites
your pity, and you may be induced to plant
another in the unfilled space to keep it company.
But in doing this you will be making a great
mistake. Three or four years from now the
bushes will have run together to such an extent
that each plant has lost its individuality. There
will be a thicket of branches which will con-

stantly interfere with each other’s well being, and
58

SHRUBS

prevent healthy development. If you take the
look ahead which I have advised, you will antici-
pate the development of the shrub, and plant
for the future rather than the immediate present.
Be content to let the grounds look rather naked
for a time. Three or four years will remedy
that defect. You can plant perennials and an-
nuals between them, temporarily, if you want the
space filled. It will be understood that what has
been said in this paragraph applies to different
kinds of shrubs set as single specimens, and not
to those planted on the “ grouping ” system.

In planting shrubs, the rule given for trees
applies quite fully. Have the hole for them
large enough to admit of spreading out their
roots naturally. You can tell about this by set-
ting the shrub down upon the ground after un-
wrapping it, and watching the way in which it
disposes of its roots. They will spread out on
all sides as they did before the plant was taken
from the ground. This is what they should be
allowed to do in their new quarters. Many per-
sons dig what resembles a post-hole more than
anything else, and crowd the roots of the shrub
into it, without making any effort to loosen or
straighten them out, dump in some lumpy soil,

trample it down roughly, and call the work done.
54

SHRUBS

Done it is, after a fashion, but those who love
the plants they set out—those who want fine
shrubs and expect them to grow well from the
beginning—never plant in that way. Spread
the roots out on all sides, cover them with fine,
mellow soil, settle this into compactness with a
liberal application of water, then fill up the hole,
and cover the surface with a mulch of some kind.
Treated in this way not one shrub in a hundred
will fail to grow, if it has good roots. What was
said about cutting off the ends on injured roots,
in the chapter on planting trees, applies with
equal pertinence here. Also, about keeping the
roots covered until you are ready to put the plant
into the ground. A shrub is a tree on a small
scale, and should receive the same kind of treat-
ment so far as planting goes. These instructions
may seem trifling, but they are really matters of
great importance, as every amateur will find
after a little experience. A large measure of
one’s success depends on how closely we follow
out the little hints and suggestions along these
lines in the cultivation of all kinds of plants.
‘Among our best large shrubs, suitable for
planting at the rear of the lot, or in the back
row of a group, is the Lilac. The leading varie-

ties will grow to a height of ten or twelve feet,
55

SHRUBS

and can be made to take on bush form if desired,
or can be trained as a small tree. If the bush
form is preferred, cut off the top of the plant,
when small, and allow several branches to start
from its base. If you prefer a tree, keep the
plant to one straight stem until it reaches the
height where you want the head to form. Then
cut off its top. Branches will start below.
Leave only those near the top of the stem. These
will develop and form the head you want. I
consider the Lilac one of our very best shrubs,
because of its entire hardiness, its rapid develop-
ment, its early flowering habit, its beauty, its
fragrance, and the little attention needed by it.
Keep the soil about it rich, and mow off the
suckers that will spring up about the parent
plant in great numbers each season, and it will
ask no more of you. The chief objection urged
against it is its tendency to sucker so freely. If
let alone, it will soon become a nuisance, but
with a little attention this disagreeable habit can
beovercome. I keep the ground about my plants
free from suckers by the use of the lawn-mower.
They can be cut as easily as grass when young
and small.

If there is a more beautiful shrub than the

white Lilac I do not know what it is. For cut-
56

VIVEMONS

SHRUBS

flower work it is as desirable as the Lily of the
Valley, which is the only flower I can compare it
with in delicate beauty, purity, and sweetness.

‘The Persian is very pleasing for front posi-
tions, because of its compact, spreading habit,
and its slender, graceful manner of branching
close to the ground. It is a very free bloomer,
and a bush five or six feet high, and as many
feet across, will often have hundreds of plume-
like tufts of bloom, of a dark purple showing
a decided violet tint.

The double varieties are lovely beyond descrip-
tion. ‘At a little distance the difference between
the doubles and singles will not be very notice-
able, but at close range the beauty of the former
will be apparent. Their extra petals give them
an airy grace, a feathery lightness, which the
shorter-spiked kinds do not have. By all means
have a rosy-purple double variety, and a double
white. No garden that lives up to its privileges
will be without them. If I could have but one
shrub, I think my choice would be a white Lilac.

Another shrub of tall and stately habit is the
old Snowball. When well grown, few shrubs can
surpass it in beauty. Its great balls of bloom
are composed of scores of individually. small

flowers, and they are borne in such profusion
87

SHRUBS

that the branches often bend beneath their
weight. Of late years there has been widespread
complaint of failure with this plant, because of
the attack of aphides. These little green plant-
lice locate themselves on the underside of the ten-
der foliage, before it is fully developed, and cause
it to curl in an unsightly way. The harm is
done by these pests sucking the juices from the
leaf. I have had no difficulty in preventing them
from injuring my bushes since I began the use
of the insecticide sold by the florists under the
name of Nicoticide. If this is applied as directed
on the can in which it is put up, two or three
applications will entirely rid the plant of the in-
sects, and they will not return after being driven
away by anything as disagreeable to them as a
nicotine extract. Great care must be taken to see
that the application gets to the underside of the
foliage where the pests will establish themselves.
This is a matter of the greatest importance, for,
in order to rout them, it is absolutely necessary
that you get the nicotine where they are. Simply
sprinkling it over the bush will do very little
good.

The Spirea is one of the loveliest of all shrubs.
Its flowers are exquisite in their daintiness, and

so freely produced that the bush is literally cov-
58

SHRUBS

ered with them. And the habit of the bush is
grace itself, and this without any attention what-
ever from you in the way of training. In fact,
attempt to train a Spirea and the chances are
that you will spoil it. Let it do its own training,
and the result will be all that you or any one
else could ask for. There are several varieties,
as you will see when you consult the dealers’
catalogues. Some are double, some single, some
white, some pink. Among the most desirable
for general culture I would name Van Houteii,
a veritable fountain of pure white blossoms in
May and June, Prunifolia, better known as
* Bridal Wreath,” with double white flowers,
Billardi, pink, and Fortunei, delicate, bright rose-
color.

The Spireas are excellent shrubs for grouping,
especially when the white and pink varieties are
used together. This shrub is very hardy, and
of the easiest culture, and I can recommend it
to the amateur, feeling confident that it will never
fail to please.

Quite as popular as the Spirea is the Deutzia,
throughout the middle section of the northern
states. Farther north it is likely to winter-kill
badly. That is, many of its branches will be in-

jured to such an extent that they will have to .
59

SHRUBS

be cut away to within a foot or two of the ground,
thus interfering with a free production of
flowers. The blossoms of this shrub are of a
tasselly bell-shape, produced thickly all along
the slender branches, in June. Candidissima is
a double white, very striking and desirable.
Gracilis is the most daintily beautiful member
of the family, all things considered. Discolor
grandiflora is a variety with large double blos-
soms, tinted with pink on the reverse of the
petals.

The Weigelia is a lovely shrub. There are
white, pink, and carmine varieties. The flowers,
which are trumpet-shaped, are borne in spikes
in which bloom and foliage are so delightfully
mixed that the result is a spray of great beauty.
A strong plant will be a solid mass of color for
weeks.

An excellent, low-growing, early flowering
shrub is Pyrus Japonica, better known as Japan
Quince. It is one of our earliest bloomers. Its
flowers are of the most intense, fiery scarlet.
This is one of our best plants for front rows in
the shrubbery, and is often used as a low hedge.

One of our loveliest little shrubs is Daphne
Cneorum, oftener known as the “ Garland

Flower.” Its blossoms are borne in small clus-
60

AMERICAN IVY AND GERANIUMS

SHRUBS

ters at the extremity of the stalks. They are a
soft pink, and very sweet. The habit of the
plant is low and spreading. While this is not
as showy as many of our shrubs, it is one that
will win your friendship, because of its modest
beauty, and will keep a place in your garden in-
definitely after it has once been given a place
there.

Berberis—the “Barberry” of “ Grand-
mother’s garden ”—is a most satisfactory shrub,
for several reasons: It is hardy everywhere. The
white, yellow, and orange flowers of the different
varieties are showy in spring; in fall the foliage
colors finely; and through the greater part of
winter the scarlet, blue and black berries are
extremely pleasing. Thunbergii is a dwarf
variety, with yellow flowers, followed by vivid
scarlet fruit. In autumn, the foliage changes to
scarlet and gold, and makes the bush as attractive
as if covered with flowers. This is an excellent
variety for a low hedge.

Exochorda grandiflora, better known as
“Pearl Bush,” is one of the most distinctively
ornamental shrubs in cultivation. It grows to a
height of seven to ten feet, and can be pruned
to almost any desirable shape. The buds, which

come early in the season, look like pearls strung
61

SHRUBS

= —

on fine green threads—hence the popular name
of the plant—and these open into flowers of the
purest white. A fine shrub for the background
of a border.

Forsythia is a splendid old shrub growing to a
height of eight to ten feet. Its flowers appear
before its leaves are out, and are of such a rich,
shining yellow that they light up the garden like
a bonfire. The flowers are bell-shaped, hence
the popular name of the plant, “ Golden Bell.”

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora is a very
general favorite because of its great hardiness,
profusion of flowers, ease of: cultivation, and
habit of late blooming. It is too well known to
need description.

Robinia hispida, sometimes called Rose ‘Aca-
cia, is a native species of the Locust. It has
long, drooping, very lovely clusters of pea-
shaped flowers of a soft pink color. It will grow
in the poorest soil and stand more neglect than
any other shrub I have knowledge of. But be-
cause it can do this is no reason why it should
be asked to do it. Give it good treatment and
it will do so much better for you than it possibly
can under neglect, that it will seem like a new
variety of an old plant.

The Flowering Currant is a delightful shrub,
62

SHRUBS

and one that anyone can grow, and one that will
flourish anywhere. It is very pleasing in habit,
without any attention in the way of training.
Its branches spread gracefully in all directions
from the centre of the bush, and grow to a length
of six or seven feet. Early in the season they are
covered with bright yellow flowers of a spicy and
delicious fragrance. In fall the bush takes on a
rich coloring of crimson and gold, and is really
much showier then than when in bloom, in spring.

Sambucus awrea—the Golden Elder—is one
of the showiest shrubs in cultivation, and its
showy feature is its foliage. Let alone, it grows
to be a very large bush, but judicious pruning
keeps it within bounds, for small grounds. It
makes an excellent background for such bril-
liantly colored flowers as the Dahlia, Salvia
splendens, or scarlet Geraniums. It deserves a
place in all collections. Our native Cut-Leaved
Elder is one of the most beautiful ornaments any
place can have. It bears enormous cymes of
delicate, lace-like, fragrant flowers in June and
July. These are followed by purple berries,
which make the bush as attractive as when in
bloom.

The Syringa, or Mock Orange, is one of our

favorites. It grows to a height of eight and ten
63

SHRUBS

feet and is therefore well adapted to places in
the back row, or in the rear of the garden. Its
flowers, which are borne in great profusion, are
a creamy white, and very sweet-scented.

The double-flowered Plum is a most lovely
shrub. It blooms early in spring, before its
leaves are out. Its flowers are very double, and
of a delicate pink, and are produced in such pro-
fusion that the entire plant seems under a pink
cloud.

Another early bloomer, somewhat similar to
the Plum, is the Flowering Almond, an old
favorite. This, however, is of slender habit, and
should be given a place in the front row. Its
lovely pink-and-white flowers are borne all along
the gracefully arching stalks, making them look
like wreaths of bloom that Nature had not fin-
ished by fastening them together in chaplet form.

It is not to be understood that the list given
above includes all the desirable varieties of shrubs
suited to amateur culture. It does, however, in-
clude the cream of the list for general-purpose
gardening. There are many other kinds that
are well worth a place in any garden, but some
of them are inclined to be rather too tender for
use at the north, without protection, and others
require a treatment which they will not be likely

to get from the amateur gardener, therefore I
64

SHRUBS

would not advise the beginner in shrub-growing
to undertake their culture.

Many an amateur gardener labors under the
impression that all shrubs must be given an an-
nual pruning. He doesn’t know just how he
got this impression, but—he has it. He looks his
shrubs over, and sees no actual necessity for the
use of the knife, but—pruning must be done, and
he cuts here, and there, and everywhere, without
any definite aim in view, simply because he feels
that something of the kind is demanded of him.
This is where a great mistake is made. So long
as a shrub is healthy and pleasing in shape let
it alone. It is not necessary that it should pre-
sent the same appearance from all points of
view. That would be to make it formal, prim—
anything but graceful. Go into the fields and
forests and take lessons from Nature, the one
gardener who makes no mistakes. Her shrubs
are seldom regular in outline, but they are beau-
tiful, all the same, and graceful, every one of
them, with a grace that is the result of infor-
mality and naturalness. Therefore never prune
a shrub unless it really needs it, and let the need
be determined by something more than mere lack
of uniformity in its development. Much of the
charm of Nature’s workmanship is the result of

irregularity which never does violence to the
5 65

SHRUBS

—
— ————

laws of symmetry and grace. Study the way-
side shrub until you discover the secret of it, and
apply the knowledge thus gained to the manage-
ment of your home garden.

Shrubs can be set in fall or spring. Some per-
sons will tell you that spring planting is prefer-
able, and give you good reasons for their prefer-
ence. Others will advance what seem to be
equally good reasons for preferring to plant in
fall. So far as my experience goes, I see but
little difference in results.

By planting in spring, you get your shrub
into the ground before it begins to grow.

By planting in fall, you get it into the ground
after it has completed its annual growth.

You will have to be governed by circum-
stances, and do the best you can under them, and
you will find, I feel quite sure, that good results
will come from planting at either season.

If you plant in spring, do not defer the work
until after your plants have begun growing. Do
it as soon as the frost is out of the ground.

If in fall, do it as soon as possible after the
plant has fully completed the growth of the
season, and “ ripened off,” as we say. In other
words, is in that dormant condition which follows
the completion of its yearly work. This will be

shown by the falling of its leaves.
66

SHRUBS

Never starve a shrub while it is small and
young, under the impression that, because it is
small, it doesn’t make much difference how you
use it. It makes all the difference in the world.
Much of its future usefulness depends on the
treatment it receives at this period. What you
want to do is to give it a good start. And after
it gets well started, keep it going steadily ahead.
Allow no grass or weeds to grow close to it and
force it to dispute with them for its share of
nutriment in the soil about its roots.

It is a good plan to spread a bushel or more
of coarse litter about each shrub in fall. Not
because it needs protection in the sense that a
tender plant needs it, but because a mulch keeps
the frost from working harm at its roots, and
saves to the plant that amount of vital force
which it would be obliged to expend upon itself
if it were left to take care of itself. For it is
true that even our hardiest plants suffer a good
deal in the fight with cold, though they may not
seem to be much injured by it. Mulch some of
them, and leave some of them without a mulch,
and notice the difference between the two when
spring comes. If you do this, I feel sure you
will give all of them the mulch-treatment every

season thereafter.
67

HOME without vines is like
a home without children—it
lacks the very thing that
ought to be there to make
it most delightful and home-
like.

A good vine—and we
have many such—soon becomes “like one of
the family.” Year after year it continues to
develop, covering unsightly places with its
beauty of leaf and bloom, and hiding defects that
can be hidden satisfactorily in no other way.
All of us have seen houses that were positively
ugly in appearance before vines were planted
about them, that became pleasant and attractive
as soon as the vines had a chance to show what
they could do in the way of covering up ugliness.

There are few among our really good vines
that will not continue to give satisfaction for an
indefinite period if given a small amount of
attention each season. I can think of none that
are not better when ten or twelve years old than

they are two and three years after planting—
68

VINES

healthier, stronger, like a person who has “ got
his growth” and arrived at that period when all
the elements of manhood are fully developed.
‘Young vines may be as pleasing as old ones, as
far as they go, but—the objection is that they
do not go far enough. The value of a vine de-
pends largely on size, and size depends largely
on age. During the early stage of a vine’s exist-
ence it is making promise of future grace and
beauty, and we must give it plenty of time in
which to make that promise good. We must also
give such care as will make it not only possible
but easy to fulfil this promise to the fullest extent.

While many vines will live on indefinitely
under neglect, they cannot do themselves justice
under such conditions, as any one will find who
plants one and leaves it to look out for itself.
But be kind to it, show it that you care for it
and have its welfare at heart, and it will surprise
and delight you with its rapidity of growth,
and the beauty it is capable of imparting to
everything with which it comes in contact. For
it seems impossible for a vine to grow anywhere
without making everything it touches beautiful.
It is possessor of the magic which transforms
plain things into loveliness.

If I were obliged to choose between vines and
69

VINES

shrubs—and I am very glad that I do not have
to do so—I am quite sure I would choose the
former. I can hardly explain how it is, but we
seem to get on more intimate terms with a vine
than we do with a shrub. Probably it is because
it grows so close to the dwelling, as a general
thing, that we come to think of it as a part of the
home.

Vines planted close to the house walls often
fail to do well, because they do not have a good
soil to spread their roots in. The soil thrown
out from the cellar, or in making an excavation
for the foundation walls, is almost always hard,
and deficient in nutriment. In order to make it
fit for use a liberal amount of sand and loam
ought to be added to it, and mixed with it so
thoroughly that it becomes a practically new soil.
At the same time manure should be given in gen-
erous quantity. If this is done, a poor soil can
be made over into one that will give most ex-
cellent results. One application of manure, how-
ever, will not be sufficient. In one season, a
strong, healthy vine will use up all the elements
of plant-growth, and more should be supplied to
meet the demands of the following year. In
other words, vines should be manured each season

if they are expected to keep in good health and
70

VINES

continue to develop. If barnyard manure can-
not be obtained, use bonemeal of which I so often
speak in this book. I consider it the best substi-
tute for barnyard fertilizer that I have ever used,
for all kinds of plants.

The best, all-round vine for general use,
allowing me to be judge, is Ampelopsis, better
known throughout the country as American Ivy,
or Virginia Creeper. It is of exceedingly rapid
growth, often sending out branches twenty feet
in length in a season, after it has become well
established. It clings to stone, wood, or brick,
with equal facility, and does not often require
any support except such as it secures for itself.
There are two varieties. One hag flat, sucker-
like discs, which hold themselves tightly against
whatever surface they come in contact with, on
the principle of suction. The other has tendrils
which clasp themselves about anything they can
grasp, or force themselves into cracks and crev-
ices in such a manner as to furnish all the sup-
port the vine needs. So far as foliage and gen-
eral habit goes, there is not much difference
between these two varieties, but the variety with
disc-supports colors up most beautifully in fall.
The foliage of both is very luxuriant. When

the green of summer gives way to the scarlet and
71

VINES

maroon of autumn, the entire plant seems to
have changed its leaves for flowers, so brilliant
is its coloring. There is but one objection to be
urged against this plant, and that is—its ten-
dency to rampant growth. Let it have its way
and it will cover windows as well as walls, and
fling its festoons across doorway and porch.
This will have to be prevented by clipping away
all branches that show an inclination to run riot,
and take possession of places where no vines are
needed. When you discover a branch starting
out in the wrong direction, cut it off at once. A
little attention of this kind during the growing
period will save the trouble of a general pruning
later on.

Vines, like children, should be trained while
growing if you would have them afford satis-
faction when grown.

The Ampelopsis will climb to the roof of a two-
story house in a short time, and throw out its
branches freely as it makes its upward growth,
and this without any training or pruning. Be-
cause of its ability to take care of itself in these
respects, as well as because of its great beauty, I
do not hesitate to call it the best of all vines for
general use. It will grow in all soils except clear
sand, it is as hardy as it is possible for a vine to be,

and so far as my experience with it goes—and I
19

WN

i

HONEYSUCKLE

VINES

have grown it for the last twenty years—it has no
diseases,

For verandas and porches the Honeysuckles
will probably afford better satisfaction because
of their less rampant habit. Also because of the
beauty and the fragrance of their flowers. Many
varieties are all-summer bloomers. The best of
these are Scarlet Trumpet and Halleana. The
vines can be trained over trellises, or large-
meshed wire netting, or tacked to posts, as suits
the taste of the owner. In whatever manner you
train them they lend grace and beauty to a porch
without shutting off the outlook wholly, as their
foliage is less plentiful than that of most vines.
This vine is of rapid development, and so hardy
that it requires very little attention in the way
of protection in winter. The variety called Scar-
let ‘Trumpet has scarlet and orange flowers.
Halleana has almost evergreen foliage and
cream-white flowers of most delightful fra-
grance. Both can be trained up together with
very pleasing effect. There are other good sorts,
but I consider that these two combine all the best
features of the entire list, therefore I would ad-
vise the amateur gardener to concentrate his
attention on them instead of spreading it out
over inferior kinds.

Every lover of flowers who sees the hybrid
73

VINES

varieties of Clematis in bloom is sure to want to
grow them. They are very beautiful, it is true,
and few plants are more satisfactory when well
grown. But—there’s the rub—to grow them
well,

‘The variety known as Jackmani, with dark
purple-blue flowers, is most likely to succeed
under amateur culture, but of late years it has
been quite unsatisfactory. Plants of it grow well
during the early part of the season, but all at
once blight strikes them, and they wither in a
day, as if something had attacked the root, and
in a short time they are dead. This has discour-
aged the would-be growers of the large-flowered
varieties—for all of them seem to be subject to
the same disease. What this disease is no one
seems able to say, and, so far, no remedy for it
has been advanced.

But in Clematis paniculata we have a
variety that I consider superior in every respect
to the large-flowered kinds, and to date no one
has reported any trouble with it. It is of strong
and healthy growth, and rampant in its habit,
thus making it useful where the large-flowered
kinds have proved defective, as none of them are
of what may be called free growth. They grow

to a height of seven or eight feet—sometimes ten,
4

VINES

wt
—

—but have few branches, and sparse foliage.
Paniculata, on the contrary, makes a very vigor-
ous growth—often twenty feet in a season—and
its foliage, unlike that of the other varieties, is
attractive enough in itself to make the plant well
worth growing. It is a rich, glossy green, and
so freely produced that it furnishes a dense
shade. Late in the season, after most other
plants are in “the sere and yellow leaf” it is
literally covered with great panicles of starry
white flowers which have a delightful fragrance.
While this variety lacks the rich color of such
varieties as Jackmani and others of the hybrid
class, it is really far more beautiful. Indeed, I
know of no flowering vine that can equal it in this
respect. Its late-flowering habit adds greatly
to its value. It is not only healthy, but hardy—
a quality no one can afford to overlook when
planting vines about the house. Like Clematis
flammula, a summer-blooming relative of great
value both for its beauty and because it is a
native, it is likely to die pretty nearly to the
ground in winter, but, because of rapid growth,
this is not much of an objection. By the time the
flowers of either variety are likely to come in
for a fair share of appreciation, the vines will

have grown to good size.
75

VINES

For the middle and southern sections of the
northern states the Wistaria is a most desirable
vine, but at the north it cannot be depended on
to survive the winter in a condition that will
enable it to give a satisfactory crop of flowers.
Its roots will live, but most of its branches will
be killed each season.

Ampelopsis V eitchii, more commonly known as
Boston or Japan Ivy, is a charming vine to train
over brick and stone walls in localities where it
is hardy, because of its dense habit of growth.
Its foliage is smaller than that of the native
Ampelopsis, and it is far less rampant in growth,
though a free grower. It will completely cover
the walls of a building with its dark green foliage,
every shoot clinging so closely that a person see-
ing the plant for the first time would get the
idea that it had been shorn of all its branches
except those adhering to the wall. All its
branches attach themselves to the wall-surface,
thus giving an even, uniform effect quite unlike
that of other vines which throw out branches in
all directions, regardless of wall or trellis. In
autumn this variety takes on a rich coloring that
must be seen to be fully appreciated.

Our native Celastrus, popularly known as Bit-

tersweet, is a very desirable vine if it can be
16

JAP! IVY GROWING ON WALL

VINES

—_—_—_—_—_—_={_=_==~_"==S====_=-_=-_—_—_—_—_=====_

given something to twine itself about. It has
neither tendril nor disc, and supports itself by:
twisting its new growth about trees over which it
clambers, branches—anything that it can wind
about. If no other support is to be found it will
twist about itself in such a manner as to form
a great rope of branches. It has attractive
foliage, but the chief beauty of the vine is its
clusters of pendant fruit, which hang to the plant
well into winter. This fruit is a berry of bright
crimson, enclosed in an orange shell which cracks
open, in three pieces, and becomes reflexed, thus
disclosing the berry within. As these berries
grow in clusters of good size, and are very freely
produced, the effect of a large plant can be imag-
ined. In fall the foliage turns to a pure gold,
and forms a most pleasing background for the
scarlet and orange clusters to display themselves
against. The plant is of extremely rapid growth.
It has a habit of spreading rapidly, and widely,
by sending out underground shoots which come
to the surface many feet away from the parent
plant. These must be kept mowed down or they
will become a nuisance.

Flower-loving people are often impatient of
results, and I am often asked what annual I

would advise one to make use of, for immediate
Ww

VINES

effect, or while the hardy vines are getting a
start. I know of nothing better, all things con-
sidered, than the Morning Glory, of which men-
tion will be found elsewhere.

The Flowering Bean is a pretty vine for train-
ing up about verandas, but does not grow to a
sufficient height to make it of much value else-
where. It is fine for covering low trellises or a
fence.

The “climbing” Nasturtiums are not really
climbers. Rather plants with such long and
slender branches that they must be given some
support to keep them from straggling all over
the ground. ‘They are very pleasing when used
to cover fences, low screens, and trellises, or when
trained along the railing of the veranda.

The Kudzu Vine is of wonderful rapidity of
growth, and will be found a good substitute for
a hardy vine about piazzas and porches.

Aristolochia, or Dutchman’s Pipe, is a hardy
vine of more than ordinary merit. It has large,
overlapping leaves that furnish a dense shade,
and very peculiar flowers—more peculiar, in fact,
than beautiful.

Bignonia will give satisfaction south of Chi-
cago, in most localities. Where it stands the

winter it is a favorite on account of its great
78

VINES

profusion of orange-scarlet flowers and _ its
pretty, finely-cut foliage. Farther north it will
live on indefinitely, like the Wistaria, but its
branches will nearly always be badly killed in
winter.

It is a mistake to make use of strips of cloth
in fastening vines to walls, as so many are in the
habit of doing, because the cloth will soon rot,
and when a strong wind comes along, or after a
heavy rain, the vines will be torn from their
places, and generally it will be found impossible
to replace them satisfactorily. Cloth and twine
may answer well enough for annual vines, with
the exception of the Morning Glory, but vines
of heavy growth should be fastened with strips
of leather passed about the main stalks and
nailed to the wall securely. Do not use a small
tack, as the weight of the vines will often tear it
loose from the wood. Do not make the leather
so tight that it will interfere with the circulation
of sap in the plant. ‘Allow space for future
growth. Some persons use iron staples, but I
would not advise them as they are sure to chafe
the branches they are used to support.

The question is often asked if vines are not
harmful to the walls over which they are trained.

I have never found them so. On the contrary, I
79

VINES

have found walls that had been covered with
vines for years in a better state of preservation
than walls on which no vines had ever been
trained. The explanation is a simple one: The
leaves of the vines act in the capacity of shingles,
and shed rain, thus keeping it from getting to the
walls of the building.

But I would not advise training vines over the
roof, unless it is constructed of slate or some
material not injured by dampness, because the
moisture will get below the foliage, where the sun
cannot get at it, and long-continued dampness
will soon bring on decay.

On account of the difficulty of getting at them,
vines are never pruned to any great, extent, but
it would be for the betterment of them if they
were gone over every year, and all the oldest
branches cut away, or thinned out enough to
admit of a free circulation of air. If this were
done, the vine would be constantly renewing
itself, and most kinds would be good for a life-
time. It really is not such a difficult undertak-
ing as most people imagine, for by the use of an
ordinary ladder one can get at most parts of a
building, and reach such portions of the vines
as need attention most.

THE HARDY BORDER

HE most satisfactory garden
of flowering plants for small
places, all things considered,
is one composed of hardy
herbaceous perennials and
biennials,

This for several reasons:

ist.—Once thoroughly established they are
good for an indefinite period.

2d.—It is not necessary to “make garden”
annually, as is the case where annuals are de-
pended on.

3d.—They require less care than any other
class of plants.

4th.—Requiring less care than other plants,
they are admirably adapted to the needs of those
who can devote only a limited amount of time
to gardening.

5th.—They include some of the most beautiful
plants we have.

6th.—By a judicious selection of kinds it is
possible to have flowers from them from early in
spring till late in fall.

6

6

81

THE HARDY BORDER

I have no disposition to say disparaging things
about the garden of annuals. Annuals are very
desirable. Some of them are absolutely indis-
pensable. But they call for a great deal of labor.
It is hard work to spade the ground, and make
the beds, and sow the seed, and keep the weeds
down. This work must be done year after year.
But with hardy plants this is not the case. Con-
siderable labor may be called for, the first year,
in preparing the ground and setting out the
plants, but the most of the work done among
them, after that, can be done with the hoe, and
it will take so little time to do it that you will
wonder how you ever came to think annuals the
only plants for the flower-garden of busy people.
That this 7s what a great many persons think is
true, but it is because they have not had sufficient
experience with hardy plants to fully understand
their merits, and the small amount of care they
require. A season’s experience will convince
them of their mistake,

In preparing the ground for the reception of
these plants, spade it up to the depth of a foot
and a half, at least, and work into it a liberal
amount of good manure, or some commercial fer-
tilizer that will take the place of manure from

the barnyard or cow-stable. Most perennials
62

AND PERENNIALS COMBINED IN BORDER

SHRUBS

THE HARDY BORDER

and herbaceous plants will do fairly well in a
soil of only moderate richness, but they cannot
do themselves justice in it. They ought not to be
expected to. To secure the best results from
them—and you ought to be satisfied with noth-
ing less—feed them well. Give them a good
start, at the time of planting, and keep them up
to a high standard of vitality by liberal feeding,
and they will surprise and delight you with the
profusion and beauty of their bloom.

Perennials will not bloom till the second year
from seed. ‘Therefore, if you want flowers from
them the first season, it will be necessary for you
to purchase last season’s seedlings from the
florist.

In most neighborhoods one can secure enough
material to stock the border from friends who
have old plants that need to be divided, or by
exchanging varieties.

But if you want plants of any particular color,
or of a certain variety, you will do well to give
your order to a dealer. In most gardens five or
six years old the original varieties will either
have died out or so deteriorated that the stock
you obtain there will be inferior in many respects,
therefore not at all satisfactory to one who is in-

clined to be satisfied with nothing but the best.
83

THE HARDY BORDER

The “best” is what the dealer will send you if
you patronize one who has established a reputa-
tion for honesty.

The impression prevails, to a great extent, that
perennials bloom only for a very short time in
the early part of the season. This is a mistake.
If you select your plants with a view to the pro-
longation of the flowering period, you can have
flowers throughout the season from this class of
plants. Of course not all of them will bloom at
the same time. I would not be understood as
meaning that. But what I do mean is—that by
choosing for a succession of bloom it is possible
to secure kinds whose flowering periods will meet
and overlap each other in such a manner that
some of them will be in bloom most of the time.
Many kinds bloom long before the earliest an-
nuals are ready to begin the work of the season.
Others are in their prime at midsummer, and
later ones will give flowers until frost comes. If
you read up the catalogues and familiarize your-
self with the habits of the plants which the dealer
offers for sale, you can make a selection that will
keep the garden gay from May to November.

On the ordinary home-lot there is not much
choice allowed as to the location of the border.

It must go to the sides of the lot if it starts in
84

THE HARDY BORDER

front of the house, or it may be located at the
rear of the dwelling. On most grounds it will,
after a little, occupy both of these positions, for
it will outgrow its early limitations in a few
years. You will be constantly adding to it, and
thus it comes about that the border that begins on
each side of the lot will overflow to the rear.

I would never advise locating it in front of
the dwelling. Leave the lawn unbroken there.
While there is not much opportunity for
“effect”? on small grounds, a departure from
straight lines can always be made, and formality
and primness be avoided to a considerable de-
gree. Let the inner edge of the border curve,
as shown in the illustration accompanying this
chapter, and the result will be a hundred-fold
more pleasing than it would be if it were a
straight line. Curves are always graceful, and
indentations here and there enable you to secure
new points of view that add vastly to the general
effect. They make the border seem larger than
it really is because only a portion of it is seen at
the same time, as would not be the case if it were
made up of straight rows of plants, with the same
width throughout.

By planting low-growing kinds in front, and

backing them up with kinds of a taller growth,
85

THE HARDY BORDER

with the very tallest growers in the rear, the
effect of a bank of flowers and foliage can be
secured. This the illustration clearly shows.

Shrubbery can be used in connection with
perennials with most satisfactory results. This,
as the reader will see, was done on the grounds
from which the picture was taken. Here we have
a combination which cannot fail to afford pleas-
ure. I would not advise any home-maker to con-
fine his border to plants of one class. Use shrubs
and perennials together, and scatter annuals here
and there, and have bulbs all along the border’s
edge.

I want to call particular attention to one thing
which the picture under consideration emphasizes
very forcibly, and that is—the unstudied infor-
mality of it. It seems to have planned itself. It
is like one of Nature’s fence-corner bits of gar-
dening.

For use in the background we have several
most excellent plants. The Delphinium—Lark-
spur—grows to a height of seven or eight feet,
in rich soil, sending up a score or more of stout
stalks from each strong clump of roots. Two
or three feet of the upper part of these stalks
will be solid with a mass of flowers of the richest,

most intense blue imaginable. I know of no
86

THE HARDY BORDER

other flower of so deep and striking a shade of
this rather rare color in the garden. In order
to guard against injury from strong winds, stout
stakes should be set about each clump, and
wound with wire or substantial cord to prevent
the flowering stalks from being broken down.
There is a white variety, Chinensis, that is most
effective when used in combination with the blue,
which you will find catalogued as Delphinium
formosum. If several strong clumps are
grouped together, the effect will be magnificent
when the plants are in full bloom. By cutting
away the old stalks as soon as they have devel-
oped all their flowers, new ones can be coaxed
to grow, and under this treatment the plants can
be kept in bloom for many weeks.

“ Golden Glow ” Rudbeckia is quite as strong
a grower as the Delphinium, and a more prolific
bloomer does not exist. It will literally cover
itself with flowers of the richest golden yellow,
resembling in shape and size those of the “ deco-
rative” type of Dahlia. This plant is a very
strong grower, and so aggressive that it will dis-
pute possession with any plant near it, and on
this account it should never be given a place
where it can interfere with choice varieties. Let

it have its own way and it will crowd out even the
87

THE HARDY BORDER

—o —— —
— — ———

grass of the lawn. Its proper place is in the
extreme background, well to the rear, where dis-
tance will lend enchantment to the view. It
must not be inferred from this that it is too coarse
a flower to give a front place to. It belongs to
the rear simply because of its aggressive quali-
ties, and the intense effect of its strong, all-per-
vading color. You do not want a flower in the
front row that, being given an inch, will straight-
way insist upon taking an ell. This the Rud-
beckia will do, every time, if not promptly
checked. It is an exceedingly valuable plant to
cut from, as its flowers last for days, and light
up a room like a great burst of strong sunshine.

Hollyhocks must have a place in every border.
Their stately habit, profusion of bloom, wonder-
ful range and richness of color, and long-contin-
ued flowering period make them indispensable
and favorites everywhere. They are most effec-
tive when grown in large masses or groups. If
they are prevented from ripening seed, they will
bloom throughout the greater part of the season.
The single varieties are of the tallest, stateliest
growth, therefore admirably adapted to back
rows in the border. The double kinds work in
well in front of them. These are the showiest

members of the family because their flowers are
88

BMOOHATIONH GANOIHSV4A-a 10

THE HARDY BORDER

a —

so thickly set along the stalk that a stronger
color-effect is given, but they are really no finer
than the single sorts, so far as general effect is
concerned. Indeed, I think I prefer the single
kinds because the rich and peculiar markings of
the individual flower show to much better ad-
vantage in them than in the doubles, whose mullti-
plicity of petals hides this very pleasing variega-
tion. But I would not care to go without either
kind.

Coreopsis lanceolata is a very charming plant
for front rows, especially if it can have a place
where it is given the benefit of contrast with a
white flower, like the Daisy. In such a location
its rich golden yellow comes out brilliantly, and
makes a most effective point of color in the
border.

Perennial Phlox, all things considered, de-
serves a place very near to the head of the list of
our very best hardy plants. Perhaps if a vote
were taken, it would be elected as leader of its
class in point of merit. It is so entirely hardy,
so sturdy and self-reliant, so wonderfully florif-
erous, and so rich and varied in color that it is
almost an ideal plant for border-use. It varies
greatly in habit. Some varieties attain a: height

of five feet or more. Others are low growers,—
89

THE HARDY BORDER

almost dwarfs, in fact,—therefore well adapted
to places in the very front row, and close to the
path. The majority are of medium habit, fitting
into the middle rows most effectively. With a
little care in the selection of varieties—depend-
ing on the florists’ catalogues to give us the
height of each—it is an easy matter to arrange
the various sorts in such a way as to form a bank
which will be an almost solid mass of flowers for
weeks. Some varieties have flowers of the purest
white, and the colors of others range through
many shades of pink, carmine, scarlet, and crim-
son, to lilac, mauve, and magenta. ‘The three
colors last named must never be planted along-
side or near to the other colors, with the exception
of white, as there can be no harmony between
them. They make a color-discord so intense as
to be positively painful to the eye that has keen
color-sense. But combine them with the white
kinds and they are among the loveliest of the lot.
This Phlox ought always to be grouped, to be
most effective, and white varieties should be
used liberally to serve as a foil to the more bril-
liant colors and bring out their beauty most
strikingly.

Peonies are superb flowers, and no border can

afford to be without them. The varieties are
90

THE PEONY AT ITS BEST

THE HARDY BORDER

almost endless, but you cannot have too many of
them. Use them everywhere. The chances are
that you will wish you had room for more. They
bloom early, are magnificent in color and form,
and are so prolific that old plants often bear a
hundred or more flowers each season, and their
profusion of bloom increases with age, as the
plant gains in size. Many varieties are as fra-
grant as a Rose, and all of them are as hardy as a
plant can well be. What more need be said in
their favor?

In order to attain the highest degree of success
with the Peony, it should be given a rather heavy
soil, and manure should be used with great liber-
ality. In fact it is hardly possible to make the
soil too rich to suit it. Disturb the roots as little
as possible. The plant is very sensitive to any
treatment that affects the root, and taking away
a “toe” for a neighbor will often result in its
failure to bloom next season. Keep the grass
from crowding it. Year after year it will spread
its branches farther and wider, and there will be
more of them, and its flowers will be larger and
finer each season, if the soil is kept rich. I know
of old clumps that have a spread of six feet or
more, sending up hundreds of stalks from matted

roots that have not been disturbed for no one
91

THE HARDY BORDER

knows how long, on which blossoms can be
counted by the hundreds every spring.

Dicentra, better known as “ Bleeding Heart,”
because of its pendulous, heart-shaped flowers, is
a most lovely early bloomer. It is an excellent
plant for the front row of the border. It sends
up a great number of flowering stalks, two and
three feet in length, all curving gracefully out-
ward from the crown of the plant. These bear
beautiful foliage—indeed, the plant would be
well worth growing for this alone—and each
stalk is terminated with a raceme of pink and
white blossoms. It is difficult to imagine any-
thing lovelier or more graceful than this plant,
when in full bloom.

The Aquilegia ought to be given a place in all
collections. It comes in blue, white, yellow, and
red. Some varieties are single, others double,
and all beautiful. This is one of our early
bloomers. It should be grown in clumps, near
the front row.

The Iris is to the garden what the Orchid is to
the greenhouse. Its colors are of the richest—
blue, purple, violet, yellow, white, and gray. It
blooms in great profusion, for weeks during the
early part of summer. It is a magnificent flower.

It will be found most effective when grouped,
92

IVINNAYDd JO YAadUOH AHL JO LIA V

BLINV 1d

THE HARDY BORDER

but it can be scattered about the border in such
a way as to produce charming results if one is
careful to plant it among plants whose flowers
harmonize with the different varieties in color.
Color-harmony is as important in the hardy bor-
der as in any other part of the garden, and no
plant should be put out until you are sure of the
effect it will produce upon other plants in its
immediate neighborhood. Find the proper place
for it before you give it a permanent location.
The term, “ proper place,” has as much refer-
ence to color as to size. A plant that introduces
color-discord is as much out of place as is the
plant whose size makes it a candidate for a posi-
tion in the rear when it is given a place in the
immediate foreground.

Pyrethrum uliginosum is a wonderfully free
bloomer, growing to a height of three or four
feet, therefore well adapted to the middle rows
of the border. It blooms during the latter part
of summer. It is often called the “ Giant Daisy,”
and the name is very appropriate, as it is the
common Daisy, to all intents and purposes, on a
large scale.

The small white Daisy, of lower growth, is
equally desirable for front-row locations. It is

a most excellent plant, blooming early in the
93

THE HARDY BORDER

season, and throughout the greater part of sum-
mer, and well into autumn if the old flower-
stalks are cut away in September, to encourage
new growth. It is a stand-by for cut flowers for
bouquet work. Because of its compact habit it is
a very desirable plant for edging the border.

It is difficult to imagine anything more dain-
tily charming than the herbaceous Spireas. Alba,
white, and rosea, soft pink, produce large, feath-
ery tufts of bloom on stalks six and seven feet
tall. The flowers of these varieties are exceed-
ingly graceful in an airy, cloud-like way, and
never fail to attract the attention of those who
pass ordinary plants by without seeing them.

The florists have taken our native Asters in
hand, and we now have several varieties that
make themselves perfectly at home in the border.
Some of them grow to a height of eight feet.
Others are low growers. The rosy-violet kinds
and. the pale lavender-blues are indescribably
lovely. Nearly all of them bloom very late in the
season. Their long branches will be a mass of
flowers with fringy petals and a yellow centre.
These plants have captured the charm of the
Indian Summer and brought it into the garden,
where they keep it prisoner during the last days

of the season. By all means give them a place in
94

THE HARDY BORDER

your collection. And it will add to the effect if
you plant alongside them a few clumps of their
sturdy, faithful old companion of the roadside
and pasture, the Golden Rod.

It hardly seems necessary for me to give a de-
tailed description of all the plants deserving a
place in the border. The list would be too long
if I were to attempt to do so. You will find all
the really desirable kinds quite fully described in
the catalogues of the leading dealers in plants.
Information as to color, size, and time of flower-
ing is given there, and you can select to suit your
taste, feeling confident that you will be well
satisfied with the result.

Just a few words of advice, in conclusion:

Don’t crowd your plants.

Allow for development.

Don’t try to have a little of everything.

Don’t overlook the old-fashioned kinds simply
because they happen to be old. That proves that
they have merit.

Keep the ground between them clean and
open.

Manure well each spring.

Stir the soil occasionally during the season.

Prevent the formation of seed.

Once in three or four years divide the old
95

THE HARDY BORDER

—
—

clumps, and discard all but the strongest, health-
iest portions of the roots. Reset in rich, mellow
soil. Do this while the plants are at a stand-
still, early in spring, or in fall, after the work of
the season is over.

THE GARDEN OF ANNUALS

N preparing the garden for
annuals, the first thing to do
is to spade up the soil. This
can be done shortly after the
frost is out of the ground.
This is about all that can be
done to advantage, at this
time, as the ground must be allowed to remain
as it comes from the spade until the combined
effect of sun and air has put it into a condition
that will make it an easy matter to reduce it to
proper mellowness with the hoe or iron rake.
Right here let me say: Most of us, in the
enthusiasm which takes possession of us when
spring comes, are inclined to rush matters. We
spade up the soil, and immediately attempt to
pulverize it, and of course fail in the attempt,
because it is not in a proper condition to pul-
verize. We may succeed in breaking it up into
little clods, but that is not what needs doing. It
must be made fine, and mellow,—not a lump left
in it,—and this can only be done well after the

elements have had an opportunity to do their
7 97

THE GARDEN

— —
—, —

work on it. When one comes to think about it,
there is no need of hurry, for it is not safe to sow
seed in the ground at the north until the weather
becomes warm and settled, and that will not be
before the first of May, in a very favorable
season, and generally not earlier than the middle
of the month. This being the case, be content to
leave the soil to the mellowing influences of the
weather until seed-sowing time is at hand. Then
go to work and get your garden ready.

If the soil is not rich, apply manure from the
barnyard or its substitute in the shape of some
reliable fertilizer.

Do this before you set about the pulverization
of the soil. Then go to work with hoe and rake,
and reduce it to the last possible degree of fine-
ness, working the fertilizer you make use of into
it in such a manner that both are perfectly
blended.

There is no danger of overdoing matters in
this part of garden-work. The finer the soil is
the surer you may be of the germination of the
seed you put into it. Fine seed often fails to
grow in a coarse and lumpy soil.

In sowing seed, make a distinction between
the very fine and that of ordinary size. Fine seed

should be scattered on the surface, and no
98

OF ANNUALS

attempt made to cover it. Simply press down
the soil upon which you have scattered it with
a smooth board. This will make it firm enough
to retain the moisture required to bring about
germination.

Larger seed can be sown on the surface, and
afterward covered by sifting a slight covering of
fine soil over it. Then press with the board to
make it firm.

Large seed, like that of the Sweet Pea, Four-
o-Clock, and Ricinus, should be covered to the
depth of half an inch.

I always advise sowing seed in the beds where
the plants are to grow, instead of starting it in
pots and boxes, in the house, early in the season,
under the impression that by so doing you are
going to “get the start of the season.” In
ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, plants from
seed sown in the house will be so weak in vital
force that they cannot stand the change which
comes when they are transplanted to the open
ground. In the majority of cases, there will be
none to transplant, for seedlings grown under
living-room conditions generally die before the
time comes when it is safe to put them out of
doors. Should there be any to put out, they

will be so weak that plants from seed sown in the
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THE GARDEN

beds, at that time, will invariably get the start of
them, and these are sure to make the best plants.
A person must be an expert in order to make a
success of plant-growing from seed, in the house,
in spring. There will be too much heat, too little
fresh air, too great a lack of moisture in the
atmosphere, and often a lack of proper attention
in the way of watering, and unless these matters
can be properly regulated it is useless to expect
success. Knowing what the result is almost sure
to be, I discourage the amateur gardener from
attempting to grow his own seedlings under
these conditions. If early plants are desired, buy
them of the florists whose facilities for growing
them are such that they can send out strong and
healthy stock.

Do not sow the seeds of tender plants until
you are quite sure that the danger from cold
nights is over. It is hardly safe to put any kind
of seed into the ground before the middle of
May, at the north.

If we wait until all conditions are favorable,
the young plants will get a good start and go
steadily ahead, and distance those from seed
sown before the soil had become warm or the
weather settled. Haste often makes waste. If

the soil is cold and damp seed ‘often fails to
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germinate in it, and this obliges you to buy more
seed, and all your labor goes for naught.

To the method and time of planting advised
above, there is one exception—that of the Sweet
Pea. This should go into the ground as soon as
possible in spring. For this reason: 'This plant
likes to get a good root-growth before the warm
weather of summer comes. With such a growth
it is ready for flowering early in the season, and
no time is wasted. Dig a V-shaped trench six
inches deep. Sow the seed thickly. It ought not
to be more than an inch apart, and if closer no
harm will be done. Cover to the depth of an
inch, at time of sowing, tramping the soil down
firmly. When the young plants have grown to
be two or three inches tall, draw in more of the
soil, and keep on doing this from time to time, as
the seedlings reach up, until all the soil from the
trench has been returned to it. This method
gives us plants with roots deep enough in the
soil to make sure of sufficient moisture in a dry
season. It also insures coolness at the root, a
condition quite necessary to the successful cult-
ure of this favorite flower.

Weeds will generally put in an appearance be-
fore the flowering plants do. As soon as you can

tell “ which is which ” the work of weeding must
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THE GARDEN

begin. At this stage, hand-pulling will have to
be depended on. But a little later, when the
flowering plants have made an inch or two of
growth, weeding by hand should be abandoned.
Provide yourself with a weeding-hook—a little
tool with claw-shaped teeth—with which you can
uproot more weeds in an hour than you can in all
day by hand, and the work will be done in a
superior manner as the teeth of the little tool stir
the surface of the soil just enough to keep it light
and open—a condition that is highly favorable
to the healthy development of young plants. I
have never yet seen a person who liked to pull
weeds by hand. Gardens are often neglected be-
cause of the dislike of their owners for this dis-
agreeable task. The use of the weeding-hook
does away with the drudgery, and makes really
pleasant work of the fight with weeds.

If seedlings are to be transplanted, do it after
sundown or on a cloudy day. Lift the tender
plants as carefully as possible, and aim to not
expose their delicate roots. Get the place in
which you propose to plant them ready before
you lift them, and then set them out immediately.
Make a hole as deep as their roots are long, drop
the plants into it, and press the soil firmly about

them with thumb and finger. It may be well to
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OF ANNUALS

water them if the season is a dry one. Shade
them next day, and continue to do so until they
show that they have made new feeding roots by
beginning to grow. I make use of a “ shader”
that I have “evolved from my inner conscious-
ness ” that gives better satisfaction than anything
else I have ever tried. I cut thick brown paper
into circular shape, eight inches across. Then I
cut out a quarter of it, and bring the edges of
this cut together, and run a stick or wire through
them to hold them together. This stick or wire
should be about ten inches long, as the lower end
of it must go into the soil. When my “ shader ”
is ready for use it has some resemblance to a
paper umbrella with a handle at one side instead
of in the middle. This handle is inserted in the
soil close to the plant, and the “ umbrella ”’ shades
it most effectively, and does this without inter-
fering with a free circulation of air, which is a
matter of great importance.

If thorough work in the way of weeding is done
at the beginning of the season, it will be an easy
matter to keep the upper hand of the enemy
later on. But if you allow the weeds to get the
start of you, you will have to do some hard fight-
ing to gain the supremacy which ought never to

have been relinquished. ‘After a little, the hoe
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THE GARDEN

can be used to advantage. If the season happens
to be a dry one, do not allow the soil to become
hard, and caked on the surface, under the im-
pression that it will not be safe to stir it because
of the drouth. ‘A soil that is kept light and open
will absorb all the moisture there is in the air,
while one whose surface is crusted over cannot do
this, therefore plants growing in it suffer far
more than those do in the soil that is stirred
constantly. Aim to get all possible benefit from
dews and slight showers by keeping the soil in
such a sponge-like condition that it can take
advantage of them.

It is a good plan to use the grass-clippings
from the lawn as a mulch about your plants in
hot, dry weather.

Do not begin to water plants in a dry season
unless you can keep up the practice. Better
let them take the chances of pulling through
without the application than to give it for a
short time and then abandon it because of the
magnitude of the task.

Furnish racks and trellises for such plants as
need them as soon as they are needed. Many
a good plant is spoiled by neglecting to give
attention to its requirements at the proper time.

Make it a rule to go over the garden at least

twice a week, after the flowering season sets in,
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and cut away all faded flowers. If this is done,
no seed will come to development, and the
strength of the plants will be expended in the
production of other flowers. By keeping up this
practice through the season, it is possible to keep
most of them blossoming until late in the sum-
mer, as they will endeavor to perpetuate them-
selves by the production of seed, and the first step
in this process is the production of flowers.

What flowers would you advise us to grow?
many readers of this chapter will be sure to ask,
after having read what I have said above about
the garden of annuals.

In answering this question here, it will be
necessary, in a measure, to repeat what has been,
or will be, said in other chapters, where various
phases of gardening are treated. But the ques-
tion is one that should be answered in this con-
nection, at the risk of repetition, in order to fully
cover the subject now under consideration.

There are so many kinds of flowers offered
by the seedsmen that it is a difficult matter to
decide between them, when all are so good. But
no one garden is large enough to contain them
all. Were one to attempt the cultivation of all
he would be obliged to put in all his time at the
work, and the services of an assistant would be

needed, besides. Eiven then the chances are that
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the work would be done in a superficial fashion.
Therefore I shall mention only such kinds as I
consider the very best of the lot for general use,
adding this advice:

Don’t attempt too much. A few good kinds,
well grown, will afford a great deal more pleas-
ure than a great many kinds only half grown.

This list is made up of such kinds as can
properly be classed as “ stand-bys,” kinds which
any amateur gardener can be reasonably sure of
success with if the instructions given in this chap-
ter are carefully followed.

Alyssum.—Commonly called Sweet Alys-
sum, because of its pleasing fragrance. Of low
growth. Very effective as an edging. Most pro-
fuse and constant bloomer.

Aster—This annual disputes popularity with
the Sweet Pea. Very many persons would pre-
fer it to any other because of its sturdy habit,
ease of culture, profusion of bloom, and great
variety of color. It is one of the indispensables.

Antirrhinum (Snapdragon).—Plant of pro-
fuse flowering habit. Flowers of peculiar shape,
mostly in rich colors, Very satisfactory for
autumn.

Balsam.—Splendid plant for summer flower-

ing, coming in many colors, some of these ex-
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ceedingly delicate and beautiful. Flowers like
small Roses, very double, and set so thickly along
the stalks that each branch seems like a wreath of
bloom. It is often necessary to trim off many
of the leaves in order to give the blossoms a
chance to display themselves. Some varieties are
charmingly variegated. Being quite tender it
should not be sown until one is sure of warm
weather.

Calliopsis (Coreopsis).—A_ very showy plant,
with rich yellow flowers, marked with brown,
maroon and scarlet at the base of the petal. A
most excellent plant where great masses of color
are desired. Fine for combining with scarlet
and other strong-toned flowers. An all-the-
season bloomer.

Candytuft.—A free and constant bloomer, of
low habit. Very useful for edging beds and bor-
ders. Comes in pure white and purplish red.

Celosia (Cockscomb) .—A plant with most pe-
culiar flowers. What we call the flower is really
a collection of hundreds of tiny individual blos-
soms set so close together that they seem to com-
pose one large blossom. The prevailing color is
a bright scarlet, but we have some varieties in
pink and pale yellow. Sure to please.

Cosmos.—A plant of wonderfully free flower-
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ing habit. Flowers mostly pink, white, and lilac.
A tall grower, branching freely, therefore well
adapted to back rows, or massing. Foliage fine
and feathery. Excellent for cutting. One of
our most desirable fall bloomers. We have an
early Cosmos of rather dwarf habit, but the
large-growing late varieties are far more satis-
factory. It may be necessary to cover the plants
at night when the frosts of middle and late Sep-
tember are due, as they will be severely injured
by even the slightest touch of frost. Well worth
all the care required.

Four-o’-Clock (Marvelof Peru—Mirabilis) —
A good, old-fashioned flower that has the pecu-
liarity of opening its trumpet-shaped blossoms
late in the afternoon. Bushy, well branched, and
adapted to border use as a “ filler.”

Escholtzia (California Poppy).—One of the
showiest flowers in the entire list. A bed of it
will be a sheet of richest golden yellow for many
weeks.

Gaillardia (Blanket-flower).—A profuse and
constant bloomer, of rich and striking color-com-
binations. Yellow, brown, crimson, and maroon.
Most effective when massed.

Gypsophila (Baby’s Breath).—A plant of
great daintiness, both in foliage and flowers.

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Always in demand for cut-flower work. White
and pink.

Kochia (Burning Bush—Mexican Fire-
plant).—A very desirable plant, of symmetri-
cal, compact habit. Rich green throughout the
summer, but turning to dark red in fall. Fine
for low hedges and for scattering through the
border wherever there happens to be a vacancy.

Larkspur—Another old-fashioned flower of
decided merit.

Marigold—An old favorite that richly de-
serves a place in all gardens because of its rich
colors, free blooming qualities and ease of
culture.

Nasturtium.—Too well known to need de-
scription here. Everybody ought to grow it.
Unsurpassed in garden decoration and equally as
valuable for cutting. Blooms throughout the
entire season. Does well in a rather poor soil.
In a very rich soil it makes a great growth of
branches at the expense of blossoms.

Pansy.—Not an annual, but generally treated
as such. A universal favorite that almost every-
body grows. If flowers of a particular color are
desired I would advise buying blooming seed-
lings from the florist, as one can never tell what

he is going to get if he depends on seed of his
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THE GARDEN

own sowing. ‘The flowers will be as fine as those
from selected varieties, but there will be such a
medley of colors that one sometimes tires of the
effect. I have always received the most pleasure
from planting distinct colors, like the yellows,
the blues, the whites, and the purples, and the
only way in which I can make sure of getting just
the colors I want is to tell the florist about them,
and instruct him to send me those colors when
his seedlings come into bloom.

Petunia.—Another of the “stand-bys.” A
plant that can always be depended on. Very
free bloomer, very profuse, and very showy. If
the old plants that have blossomed through the
summer begin to look ragged and unsightly, cut
away the entire top. Ina short time new shoots
will be sent out from the stump of the old plant,
and almost before you know it the plant will have
renewed itself, and be blooming as freely as when
it was young. Fine for massing.

Phloe Drummondi.—One of our most satis-
factory annuals. ‘Any one can grow it. It be-
gins to bloom when small, and improves with age.
Comes in a wide range of colors, some brilliant,
others delicate—all beautiful. Charming effects
are easily secured by planting the pale rose, pure

white, and soft yellow varieties together, either
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in rows or circles. The contrast will be fine, and
the harmony perfect. Other colors are desirable,
but they do not all combine well. It is a good
plan to use white varieties freely, as these
heighten the effect of the strong colors. I always
buy seed in which each color is by itself, as a
mixture of red, crimson, lilac, and violet in the
same bed is never pleasing to me.

Poppy.—Brilliant and beautiful. Unrivalled
for midsummer show. ‘As this plant is of little
value after its early flowering period is over,
other annuals can be planted in the bed with it,
to take its place. Set these plants about the
middle of July, and when they begin to bloom
pull up the Poppies. The Shirley strain includes
some of the loveliest colors imaginable. Its
flowers have petals that seem cut from satin.
The large-flowered varieties are quite as orna-
mental as Peonies, as long as they last.

Portulacca——Low grower, spreading until the
surface of the bed is covered with the dark green
carpet of its peculiar foliage. Flowers both
single and double, of a great variety of colors.
Does well in hot locations, and in poor soil. Of
the easiest culture.

Scabiosa.—Very fine. Especially for cutting.

Colors dark purple, maroon, and white.
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THE GARDEN

Salpiglossis.—A_ free-blooming plant, of very
brilliant coloring and_ striking variegation.
Really freakish in its peculiar markings.

Stock (Gillyflower).—A plant of great merit.
Flowers of the double varieties are like minia-
ture Roses, in spikes. Very fragrant. Fine for
cutting. Blooms until frost comes. Red, pink,
purple, white, and pale yellow. The single varie-
ties are not desirable, and as soon as a seedling
plant shows single flowers, pull it up.

Sweet Pea.—This grand flower needs no de-
scription. It is one of the plants we must have.

V erbena.—Old, but none the worse for that.
A free and constant bloomer, of rich and varied
coloring. Habit low and spreading. One of the
best plants we have for low beds, under the sit-
ting-room windows. Keep the faded flowers cut
off, and at midsummer cut away most of the old
branches, and allow the plant to renew itself,
as advised in the case of the Petunia.

W allflower.—N ot as much grown as it ought
tobe. Delightfully fragrant. Color rich brown
and tawny yellow. General habit similar to that
of Stock, of which it is a near relative. Late
bloomer. Give it one season’s trial and you will
be delighted with it. Not as showy as most
flowers, but quite as beautiful, and the peer of

any of them in sweetness.
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Zinnia.—A robust plant of the easiest possible
culture. Any one can grow it, and it will do
well anywhere. Grows to a height of three feet
or more, branches freely, and close to the ground,
and forms a dense, compact bush. On this
account very useful for hedge purposes. Ex-
ceedingly profuse in its production of flowers.
Blooms till frost comes. Comes in almost all the
colors of the rainbow.

Because I have advised the amateur gardener
to make his selection from the above list, it must
not be understood that those of which I have not
made mention, but which will be found described
in the catalogues of the florist, are not desirable.
Many of them might please the reader quite as
well, and possibly more, than any of the kinds
I have spoken of. But most of them will require
a treatment which the beginner in gardening will
not be able to give them, and, on that account,
I do not include them in my list. After a year
or two’s experience in gardening, the amateur
will be justified in attempting their culture—
which, after all, is not difficult if one has time to
give them special attention and a sufficient
amount of care. The kinds I have advised are
such as virtually take care of themselves, after

they get well under way, if weeds are kept away
8 113

THE GARDEN

from them. They are the kinds for “ every-
body’s garden.”

Let me add, in concluding this chapter, that it
is wisdom on the part of the amateur to select
not more than a dozen of the kinds that appeal
most forcibly to him, and concentrate his atten-
tion on them. Aim to grow them to perfection
by giving them the best of care. A garden of
well-grown plants, though limited in variety, will
afford a hundredfold more pleasure to the owner
of it than a garden containing a little of every-
thing, and nothing well grown.

In purchasing seed, patronize a dealer whose
reputation for honesty and reliability is such that
he would not dare to send out anything inferior
if he were inclined to do so. There are many
firms that advertise the best of seed at very low
prices. ‘Look out for them. I happen to know
that our old and most reputable seedsmen make
only a reasonable profit on the seed they sell.
Other dealers who cut under in price can only
afford to do so because they do not exercise the
care and attention which the reliable seedsman
does in growing his stock, hence their expenses
are less. Cheap seed will be found cheap in all
senses of the term.

I want to lay special emphasis on the advisa-
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bility of purchasing seed in which each color is by
itself. The objection is often urged that one
person seldom cares to use as many plants of one
color as can be grown from a package of seed.
This difficulty is easily disposed of. Club with
your neighbors, and divide the seed between you
when it comes. In this way you will secure the
most satisfactory results and pay no more for
your seed than you would if you were to buy
“mixed ” packages. Grow colors separately for
a season and I am quite sure you will never go
back to mixed seed.

THE BULB GARDEN

— — — —

VERY lover of flowers should
have a garden of bulbs, for
three reasons: First, they
bloom so early in the season
that one can have flowers at
least six weeks longer than

' it is possible to have them if

only perennial and annual plants are depended

on. Some bulbs come into bloom as soon as the
snow is gone, at the north, to be followed by
those of later habit, and a constant succession of
bloom can be secured by a judicious selection
of varieties, thus completely tiding over the
usually flowerless period between the going of
winter and the coming of the earlier spring
flowers. Second, they require but little care,
much less than the ordinary plant. Give them

a good soil to grow in, and keep weeds and grass

from encroaching on them, and they will ask no

other attention from you, except when, because
of a multiplication of bulbs, they need to be sepa-
rated and reset, which will be about every third

year. The work required in doing this is no more
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THE BULB GARDEN

than that involved in spading up a bed for annual
flowers. Third, they are so hardy, even at the
extreme north, that one can be sure of bloom
from them if they are given a good covering in
fall, which is a very easy matter to do.

For richness and variety of color this class of
plants stands unrivalled. The bulb garden is
more brilliant than the garden of annuals which
succeeds it.

September is the proper month in which to
make the bulb garden.

‘As a general thing, persons fail to plant their
bulbs until October and often November, think-
ing the time of planting makes very little dif-
ference so long as they are put into the ground
before winter sets in. Here is where a serious
mistake is made. Early planting should always
be the rule,—for this reason: Bulbs make their
annual growth immediately after flowering, and
ripen off by midsummer. After this, they re-
main dormant until fall, when new root-growth
takes place, and the plant gets ready for the
work that will be demanded of it as soon as spring
opens. It is made during the months of October
and November, if cold weather does not set in
earlier, and should be fully completed before

the ground freezes. If incomplete—as is always
17

THE BULB GARDEN

the case when late planting is done—the plants
are obliged to do—or attempt to do—double duty
in spring. That is, the completion of the work
left undone in fall and the production of flowers
must go on at the same time, and this is asking
too much of the plant. It cannot produce fine,
perfect flowers with a poorly-developed root-
system to supply the strength and nutriment
needed for such a task, therefore the plants are
not in a condition to do themselves justice. Often
late-planted bulbs fail to produce any flowers,
and, in most instances, the few flowers they do
give are small and inferior in all respects.

With early-planted bulbs it is quite different,
because they had all the late fall-season to com-
plete root-growth in, and when winter closed in
it found them ready for the work of spring.

Therefore, do not neglect the making of your
bulb garden until winter is at hand under the
impression that if the bulbs are planted any time
before snow comes, all is well. This is the worst
mistake you could possibly make.

The catalogues of the bulb-dealers will be sent
out about the first of September. Send in your
order for the kinds you decide on planting at
once, and as soon as your order has gone, set
about preparing the place in which you propose
to plant them. Have everything in readiness for

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THE BULB GARDEN

them when they arrive, and put them into the
ground as soon after they are received as possible.

The soil in which bulbs should be planted
cannot be too carefully prepared, as much of
one’s success with these plants depends upon this
most important item. It must be rich, and it
must be fine and mellow.

The best soil in which to set bulbs is a sandy
loam.

The best fertilizer is old, thoroughly rotted
cow-manure. On no account should fresh
manure be used. Make use, if possible, of that
~ which is black from decomposition, and will
crumble readily under the application of the hoe,
or iron rake. One-third in bulk of this material
is not too much. Bulbs are great eaters, and
unless they are well fed you cannot expect large
crops of fine flowers from them. And they must
be well supplied with nutritious food each year,
because the crop of next season depends largely
upon the nutriment stored up this season.

If barnyard manure is not obtainable, substi-
tute bonemeal. Use the fine meal, in the propor-
tion of a pound to each yard square of surface.
More, if the soil happens to be a poor one. If the
soil is heavy with clay, add sand enough to lighten
it, if possible.

The ideal location for bulbs is one that is

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THE BULB GARDEN

naturally well drained, and has a slope to the
south.

Unless drainage is good success cannot be ex-
pected, as nothing injures a bulb more than
water about its roots. Therefore, if you do not
have a place suitable for them so far as natural
drainage is concerned, see to it that artificial
drainage supplies what is lacking. Spade up the
bed to the depth of a foot and a half. That is—
throw the soil out of it to that depth,—and put
into the bottom of the excavation at least four
inches of material that will not decay readily, like
broken brick, pottery, clinkers from the coal-
stove, coarse gravel—anything that will be per-
manent and allow water to run off through the
cracks and crevices in it, thus securing a system
of drainage that will answer all purposes per-
fectly. It is of the utmost importance that this
should be done on all heavy soils. Unless the
water from melting snows and early spring rains
drains away from the bulbs readily you need not
expect flowers from them.

After having arranged for drainage, work over
the soil thrown out of the bed until it is as fine
and mellow as it can possibly be made. Mix
whatever fertilizer you make use of with it, when
you do this, that the two may be thoroughly in-

120

THE BULB GARDEN

corporated. Then return it to the bed. There
will be more than enough to fill the bed, because
some space is given up to drainage material, but
this will be an advantage because it will enable
you to so round up the surface that water will run
off before it has time to soak into the soil to
much depth.

I do not think it advisable to say much about
plans for bulb-beds, because comparatively few
persons seem inclined to follow instructions along
this line. The less formal a bed of this kind is
the better satisfaction it will give, as a general
thing. It is the flower that is in the bed that
should be depended on to give pleasure rather
than the shape of the bed containing it.

I would advise locating bulb-beds near the
house where they can be easily seen from the
living-room windows. These beds can be util-
ized later on for annuals, which can be sown or
planted above the bulbs without interfering with
them in any respect.

I would never advise mixing bulbs. By that,
I mean, planting Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils,
and other kinds in the same bed. They will not
harmonize in color or habit. Each kind will be
found vastly more pleasing when kept by itself.

I would also advise keeping each color by it-

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THE BULB GARDEN

self, unless you are sure that harmony will result
from a mixture or combination of colors. Pink
and white, blue and white, and red and white
Hyacinths look well when planted together, but
a jumble of pinks, blues, and reds is never as
pleasing as the same colors would be separately,
or where each color is relieved by white.

The same rule applies to Tulips, with equal
force.

We often see pleasing effects that have been
secured by planting reds and blues in rows, alter-
nating with rows of white. This method keeps
the quarrelsome colors apart, and affords suffi-
cient contrast to heighten the general effect.
Still, there is a formality about it which is not
entirely satisfactory to the person who believes
that the flower is of first importance, and the
shape of the bed, or the arrangement of the
flowers in the bed, is a matter of secondary con-
sideration.

Bulbs should be put into the ground as soon
as possible after being taken from the package
in which they are sent out by the florist. If ex-
posed to the light and air for any length of time
they part rapidly with the moisture contained in
their scales, and that means a loss of vitality. If

it is not convenient to plant them at once, leave
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THE BULB GARDEN

them in the package, or put them in some cool,
dark place until you are ready to use them.

As a rule Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissus
should be planted about five inches deep, and
about six inches apart.

The smaller bulbs should be put from three to
four inches below the surface and about the same
distance apart.

In planting, make a hole with a blunt stick of
the depth desired, and drop the bulb into it.
Then cover, and press the soil down firmly.

Just before the ground is likely to freeze, cover
the bed with a coarse litter from the barnyard, if
obtainable, to a depth of eight or ten inches. If
this litter is not to be had, hay or straw will
answer very well, if packed down somewhat.
Leaves make an excellent covering if one can get
enough of them. If they are used, four inches
in depth of them will be sufficient. Put ever-
green boughs or wire netting over them to pre-
vent their being blown away.

I frequently receive letters from inexperienced
bulb-growers, in which the writers express con-
siderable scepticism about the value of such a
covering as I have advised above, because, they
say, it is not deep enough to keep out the frost,
therefore it might as well be dispensed with.

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THE BULB GARDEN

Keeping out the frost is not what is aimed at.
We expect the soil about the bulbs to freeze.
But such a covering as has been advised will pre-
vent the sun from thawing out the frost after it
gets into the soil, and this is exactly what we
desire. For if the frost can be kept in, after it
has taken possession, there will not be that fre-
quent alternation between freezing and thawing
which does the harm to the plant. For it is not
freezing, understand, that is responsible for the
mischief, but the alternation of conditions, These
cause a rupture of plant-cells, and that is what
does the harm. Keep a comparatively tender
plant frozen all winter and allow the frost to be
drawn out of it gradually in spring, and it will
survive a season of unusual cold. The same
plant will be sure to die in a mild season if left
exposed to the action of the elements, because of
frequent and rapid changes between heat and
cold.

Whatever covering is given should be left on
the beds as long as possible in spring, because of
the severely cold weather we frequently have at
the north after we think all danger is over. How-
ever, as soon as the plants begin to make much
growth, this covering will have to be removed.
If a cold night comes along after this has been

124

BED OF WHITE HYACINTHS BORDERED WITH PANSIES

THE BULB GARDEN

done spread blankets or carpeting over the beds.
Keep them from resting on the tender growth of
the plants by driving pegs into the soil a short
distance apart, all over the bed. The young
plants may not be killed by quite a severe freeze,
but they will be injured by it, and injury of any
kind should be guarded against at this season,
if you want fine flowers.

Holland Hyacinths should receive first consid-
eration, because they are less likely to disappoint
than any other hardy bulb. There are single and
double kinds, both desirable. Personally I pre-
fer the single sorts, as they are less prim and
formal than the double varieties, whose flowers
are so thickly set along the stalk that individual-
ity of bloom is almost wholly lost sight of. They
are, in this respect, like the double Geraniums
we use in summer bedding, whose trusses of
bloom resemble a ball of color more than any-
thing else, at a little distance, the suggestion
of individual bloom being so slight that it seldom
receives consideration. However, they do good
service where color-effects are considered of more
importance than anything else. Single Hya-
cinths have their flowers more loosely arranged
along the stalk, and are therefore more graceful
than the double varieties, and their colors are

195

THE BULB GARDEN

ao
—

quite as fine. These range from pure white
through pale pink and rose, red, scarlet, crimson,
blue and charming yellows to dark purple.

Roman Hyacinths are too tender for outdoor
culture at the north.

There are several quite distinct varieties of the
Tulip. There is an early sort, a medium one, a
late one, and the Parrot, which is prized more
for its striking combinations of brilliant colors
than for its beauty of form or habit. We have
single and double varieties in all the classes, all
coming in a wide range of both rich and delicate
colors. Scarlets, crimsons, and yellows predom-
inate, but the pure whites, the pale rose-colors,
and the rich purples are general favorites. Some
of the variegated varieties are exceedingly bril-
liant in their striking color-combinations.

The Narcissus is one of the loveliest flowers
we have. It deserves a place very near, if not
quite at, the head of the list of our best spring-
blooming plants. Nothing can be richer in color
than the large double sorts, like Horsfieldit, and
Empress, with their petals of burnished gold.
There are many other varieties equally as fine,
but with a little difference in the way of color—
just enough to make one want to have all of
them. The good old-fashioned Daffodil is an

honored member of the family that should be
196

THE BULB GARDEN

found in every garden. When you see the Dan-
delion’s gleam of gold in the grass by the wayside
you get a good idea of the brilliant display a fine
collection of Narcissus is capable of making, for
in richness of color these two flowers are almost
identical.

Among the smaller bulbs that deserve special
mention are the Crocus, the Snow Drop, the
Scilla, and the Musk or Grape Hyacinth. These
should be planted in groups, to be most effective,
and set close together. They must be used in
large quantities to produce much of a show.
They are very cheap, and a good-sized collection
can be had for a small amount of money.

Those who have a liking for special colors will
do well to make their selections from the named
varieties listed in the catalogues. You can de-
pend on getting just the color you want, if you
order in this way. But in no other way. Mixed
collection will give you some of all colors, but
there is no way of telling “ which is which ” until
they come into bloom.

But in mixed collections you will get just as
fine bulbs and just as fine colors as you will if
you select from the list of named varieties. Only
—you won’t know what you are getting. Named
sorts will cost considerable more than the mix-
tures.

127

THE ROSE: ITS GENERAL CARE
AND CULTURE

ITE owner of every garden
tries to grow roses in it, but
where one succeeds, ten fail.
Perhaps I would be safe in
saying that ninety-nine out
of every hundred fail, for a
few inferior blossoms from
a plant, each season, do not constitute success,
but that is what the majority of amateur Rose-
growers have to be satisfied with, the country
over, and so great is their admiration for this
most beautiful of all flowers that these few blos-
soms encourage them to keep on, season after
season, hoping for better things, and consoling
themselves with the thought that, though results
fall short of expectation, they are doing about ,
as well as their neighbors in this particular phase
of gardening.

One does not have to seek far for the causes
of failure. The Rose, while it is common every-
where, and has been in cultivation for centuries,
is not understood by the rank and file of those
128

THE ROSE

—-_ ———————
— —

who attempt to grow it, therefore it is not given
the treatment it deserves, and which it must have,
in order to achieve success in its culture. When
we come to know its requirements, and give it
proper care, we can grow fine Roses, but not till
then. Those who form an opinion of the possi-
bilities of the plant from the specimens which
they see growing in the average garden have yet
to find out what a really fine Rose is.

(The Rose is the flower of romance and senti-
ment throughout the lands in which it grows,
but, for all that, it is not a sentimental flower
in many respects. It is a vegetable epicure. It
likes rich food, and great quantities of it. Unless
it can be gratified in this respect it will refuse to
give you the large, fine flowers which every Rose-
grower, professional or amateur, is constantly
striving after. But feed it according to its lik-
ing and it will give you perfect flowers in great
quantities, season after season, and then you will
understand what this plant can do when given an
opportunity to do itself justice.

The Rose will live on indefinitely in almost
any soil, and under almost any conditions. I
have frequently found it growing in old, deserted
gardens, almost choked out of existence by weeds
and other aggressive plants, but still holding to

9 129

THE ROSE

life with a persistency that seemed wonderful in
a plant of its kind. I have removed some of
these plants to my own garden, and given them
good care, and time after time I have been as
surprised as delighted at the result. The poor
little bushes, that had held so tenaciously to life
against great odds, seemed to have stored up
more vitality in their starved roots than any
others in the garden were possessors of, and as
soon as they were given good soil and proper care
they sent up strong, rank shoots, and thanked me
for my kindness to them in wonderful crops of
flowers, and really put the old residents of the
place to shame. All through the years of neglect
they had no doubt been yearning to bud and
bloom, but were unable to do so because of un-
favorable conditions, but when the opportunity
to assert themselves came they made haste to
take advantage of it in a way that proves how re-
sponsive flowers are to the right kind of treat-
ment.

The Rose will only do its best in a soil that is
rather heavy with clay, or a tenacious loam. It
likes to feel the earth firm about its roots. In
light, loose soils it never does well, though it fre-
quently makes a vigorous growth of branches in
them, but it is from a more compact soil that

we get the most and finest flowers.
130

HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSE

THE ROSE

Some varieties do well in a soil of clay con-
taining considerable gravel. Such a soil provides
for the roots the firmness of which I have spoken,
while the gravel insures perfect drainage,—a
matter of great importance in Rose-culture.
Success cannot be expected in a soil unduly re-
tentive of moisture. Very heavy soils can be
lightened by the addition of coarse, sharp sand,
-old mortar, and cinders. If the location chosen
does not furnish perfect drainage, naturally,
artificial drainage must be resorted to. Make an
excavation at least a foot and a half in depth,
and fill in, at the bottom, with bits of broken
brick, crockery, coarse gravel, fine stone—any-
thing that will not readily decay—and thus secure
a stratum of porous material through which the
superfluous moisture in the soil will readily drain
away. This is an item in Rose-culture that one
cannot afford to ignore, if he desires fine Roses.

A rich soil must be provided for the plants in
order to secure good results. This, also, is a
matter of the greatest importance. The ideal
fertilizer is old, well-rotted cow-manure—so old
that it is black, and so rotten that it will crumble
at the touch of the hoe. On no account should
fresh manure be used. If old manure cannot be
obtained, substitute finely-ground bonemeal, in

the proportion of a pound to as much soil as
131

THE ROSE

you think would fill a bushel-basket, on a rough
estimate. But by all means use the cow-manure
if it can possibly be procured, as nothing else
suits the Rose so well. It will be safe to use it
in the proportion of a third to the bulk of earth in
which you plant your Roses. Whatever fertilizer
is used should be thoroughly worked into the soil
before the plants are set out. See that all lumps
are pulverized. If this is not done, there is dan-
ger of looseness about some of the roots at plant-
ing-time, and this is a thing to guard against,
especially with young plants.

Location should be taken into consideration,
always. Choose, if possible, one that has an
exposure to the sunshine of the morning and the
middle of the day. A western exposure is a great
deal better than none, but the heat of it is gener-
ally so intense that few Roses can long retain
their freshness in it. Something can be done,
however, to temper the extreme heat of it by
planting shrubs where they will shade the plants
from noon till three o’clock.

Care must be taken, in the choice of a location,
to guard against drafts. If Roses are planted
where a cold wind from the east or north can
blow over the bed, look out for trouble. Plan

for a screen of evergreens, if the bed is to be a
132

THE ROSE

permanent one. If temporary only, set up some
boards to protect the plants from getting chilled
until quick-growing annuals can be made to take
their place. I have found that mildew on Rose-
bushes is traceable, nine times out of ten, to
exposure to cold drafts, and that few varieties
are strong enough to withstand the effects of re-
peated attacks of it. The harm done by it can be
mitigated, to some extent, by applications of
flowers of sulphur, dusted over the entire plant
while moist with dew, but it will not do to depend
on thisremedy. Remove the cause of trouble and
there will be no need of any application.

Because the Rose is so beautiful, when in full
bloom, quite naturally we like to plant it where
its beauty can be seen to the best advantage. But
I would not advise giving it a place on the lawn,
or in the front yard. When plants are in bloom,
people will look only at their flowers, and what-
ever drawbacks there are about the bush will not
be noticed. But after the flowering period is over,
the bushes will come in for inspection, and then it
will be discovered that a Rose-bush without blos-
soms is not half as attractive as most other shrubs
are. We prune it back sharply in our efforts to
get the finest possible flowers from it, thus mak-

ing it impossible to have luxuriance of branch or
133

THE ROSE

foliage. We thin it until there is not enough
left of it to give it the dignity of a shrub. In
short, as ornamental shrubs, Roses are failures
with the exception of a few varieties, and these
are not kinds in general cultivation. This being
the case, it is advisable to locate the Rose-bed
where it will not be greatly in evidence after the
flowering season is ended. But try to have it
where its glories can be enjoyed by the occupants
of the home. Not under, or close to, the living-
room windows, for that space should be reserved
for summer flowers, but where it will be in full
view, if possible, from the kitchen as well as the
parlor. The flowering period of the Rose is so
short that we must contrive to get the greatest
possible amount of pleasure out of it, and in order
to do that we want it where we can see it at all
times.

Very few of our best Roses are really hardy,
though most of the florists’ catalogues speak of
them as being so. Many kinds lose the greater
share of their branches during the winter, unless
given good protection. Their roots, however, are
seldom injured so severely that they will not send
up a stout growth of new branches during the
season, but this is not what we want. We want

Roses,—lots of them,—and in order to have them
184

THE ROSE

we must contrive, in some way, to save as many
of the last year’s branches as possible. Fortu-
nately, this can be done without a great deal of
trouble.

Here is my method of winter protection: Late
in fall—generally about the first of November, or
whenever there are indications that winter is
about to close in upon us—I bend the bushes to
the ground, and cover them with dry earth,
leaves, litter from the barn, or evergreen
branches. In doing this I am not aiming to keep
the frost away from the plants, as might be
supposed, but rather to prevent the sun from
getting at the soil and thawing the frost that has
taken possession of it. Scientific investigation
has proven that a plant, though comparatively
tender, is not seriously injured by freezing, if it
can be kept frozen until the frost is extracted
from it naturally,—that is, gradually and ac-
cording to natural processes. It is the frequent
alternation of freezing and thawing that does the
harm. Therefore, if you have a tender Rose that
you want to carry over winter in the open ground,
give it ample protection as soon as the frost has
got at it—before it has a chance to thaw out—
and you can be reasonably sure of its coming

through in spring in good condition. What I
135

THE ROSE

mean by the term “ ample protection ” is—a cov-
ering of one kind or another that will shade the
plant and counteract the influence of the sun
upon the frozen soil—not, as most amateurs seem
to think, for the purpose of keeping the soil
warm. I have already made mention of this
scientific fact, and may do it again because it is
a matter little understood, but is one of the great-
est importance, hence my frequent reference to it.

If earth is used as a covering, it should be
dry, and after it is put on, boards, or something
that will turn rain and water should be put over
it. Old oil-cloth is excellent for this purpose.
Canvas that has been given a coating of paint is
good. Tarred sheathing-paper answers the pur-
pose very well. Almost anything will do that
prevents the earth from getting saturated with
water, which, if allowed to stand among the
branches, will prove quite as harmful as exposure
to the fluctuations of winter weather. If leaves
are used,—and these make an ideal covering if
you can get enough of them,—they can be kept
in place by laying coarse wire netting over them.
Or evergreen branches can be used to keep the
wind from blowing them away. These branches
alone will be sufficient protection for the hardier

kinds, such as Harrison’s Yellow, Provence, Cab-
136

ROSE TRELLIS

THE ROSE

bage, and the Mosses, anywhere south of New
York. North of that latitude I would not advise
depending on so slight a protection. Harth-cov-
ering is preferable for the northern section of the
United States.

It is no easy matter to get sturdy Rose-bushes
ready for winter. Their canes are stiff and brit-
tle. Their thorns are formidable. One person,
working alone, cannot do the entire work to ad-
vantage. It needs one to bend the bushes down
and hold them in that position while the other
applies the covering. In bending the bush, great
care must be taken to prevent its being broken,
or cracked, close to the ground. Provide your-
self with gloves of substantial leather or thick
canvas before you tackle them. Then take hold
of the cane close to the ground, with the left hand,
holding it firmly, grasp the upper part of it with
the right hand, and proceed gently and cautiously
with the work until you have it flat on the ground.
Tf your left-hand grasp is a firm one, you can feel
the bush yielding by degrees, and this is what
you should be governed by. On no account
work so rapidly that you do not feel the re-
sistance of the branch giving way in a man-
ner that assures you that it is adjusting itself

safely to the force that is being applied to it.
187

THE ROSE

When you have it on the ground, you will have
to hold it there until it is covered with earth, un-
less you prefer to weight it down with something
heavy enough to keep it in place while you cover
it. Omit the weights, or relax your grip upon it,
and the elastic branches will immediately spring
back to their normal position. Sometimes, when
a bush is stubbornly stiff, and refuses to yield
without danger of injury, it is well to heap a pail-
ful or two of earth against it, on the side toward
which it is to be bent, thus enabling you to curve
it over the heaped-up soil in such a manner as to
avoid a sharp bend. Never hurry with this work.
Take your time for it, and do it thoroughly, and
thoroughness means carefulness, always. As a
general thing, six or eight inches of dry soil will
be sufficient covering for Roses at the north. If
litter is used, the covering can be eight or ten
inches deep.

Do not apply any covering early in the season,
as so many do for the sake of “ getting the work
out of the way.” Wait until you are reasonably
sure that cold weather is setting in.

Teas, and the Bourbon and Bengal sections of
the so-called ever-bloomers, are most satisfac-
torily wintered in the open ground by making a
pen of boards about them, at least ten inches

138

THE ROSE

deep, and filling it with leaves, packing them
firmly over the laid-down plants. Then cover
with something to shed rain. These very tender
sorts cannot always be depended on to come
through the winter safely at the north, even when
given the best of protection, but where one has
a bed of them that has afforded pleasure through-
out the entire summer, quite naturally he dislikes
to lose them if there is a possibility of saving
them, and he will be willing to make an effort
to carry them through the winter. If only part
of them are saved, he will feel amply repaid for
all his trouble. Generally all the old top will
have to be cut away, but that does not matter
with Roses of this class, as vigorous shoots will
be sent up, early in the season, if the roots are
alive, therefore little or no harm is done by the
entire removal of the old growth.

The best Roses to plant are those grown by
reliable dealers who understand how to grow vig-
orous stock, and who are too honest to give a
plant a wrong name. Some unscrupulous
dealers, whose supply of plants is limited to a
few of the kinds easiest to grow, will fill any
order you send them, and your plants will come
to you labelled to correspond with your order.

But when they come into bloom, you may find
139

THE ROSE

that you have got kinds that you did not order,
and did not care for. The honest dealer never
plays this trick on his customers. If he hasn’t
the kinds you order, he will tell you so. There-
fore, before ordering, try to find out who the
honest dealers are, and give no order to any firm
not well recommended by persons in whose opin-
ion you have entire confidence. There are scores
of such firms, but they do not advertise as exten-
sively as the newer ones, because they have many
old customers who do their advertising for them
by “speaking good words” in their favor to
friends who need anything in their line.

I would advise purchasing two-year-old
plants, always. They have much stronger roots
than those of the one-year-old class, and will give
a fairly good crop of flowers the first season, as
a general thing. And when one sets out a new
Rose, he is always in a hurry to see “ what it
looks like.”

Be sure to buy plants on their own roots. It
is claimed by many growers that many varieties
of the Rose do better when grafted on vigorous
stock than they do on their own roots, and this
is doubtless true. But it is also true that the
stock of these kinds can be increased more rap-

idly by grafting than from cuttings, and, because
140

THE ROSE

of this, many dealers resort to this method of
securing a supply of salable plants. It is money
in their pockets to do so. But it is an objection-
able plan, because the scion of a choice variety
grafted to a root of an inferior kind is quite
likely to die off, and when this happens you have
a worthless plant. Strong and vigorous branches
may be sent up from the root, but from them
you will get no flowers, because the root from
which they spring is that of a non-flowering sort.
Many persons cannot understand why it is that
plants so luxuriant in growth fail to bloom, but
when they discover that this growth comes from
the root below where the graft was inserted, the
mystery is explained to them. When grafted
plants are used, care must be taken to remove
every shoot that appears about the plant unless
it is sent out above the graft. If the shoots that
are sent up from below the graft are allowed
to remain, the grafted portion will soon die off,
because these shoots from the root of the variety
upon which it was “worked” will speedily rob
it of vitality and render it worthless. All this
risk is avoided by planting only kinds which are
grown upon their own roots.

In planting Roses, make the hole in which

they are to be set large enough to admit of
4

THE ROSE

spreading out their roots evenly and naturally.
Let it be deep enough to bring the roots about
the same distance below the surface as the plant
shows them to have been before it was taken
from the nursery row. When the roots are
properly straightened out, fill in about them with
fine soil, and firm it down well, and then add two
or three inches more of soil, after which at least
a pailful of water should be applied to each plant,
to thoroughly settle the soil between and about
the roots. Avoid loose planting if you want your
plants to get a good start, and do well. When
all the soil has been returned to the hole, add a
mulch of coarse manure to prevent too rapid
evaporation of moisture while the plants are put-
ting forth new feeding roots.

If large-rooted plants are procured from the
nursery, quite likely some of the larger roots will
be injured by the spade in lifting them from the
row. Look over these roots carefully, and cut
off the ends of all that have been bruised, before
planting. A smooth cut will heal readily, but
a ragged one will not.

We have several classes or divisions of Roses
adapted to culture at the north. The June Roses
are those which give a bountiful crop of flowers

at the beginning of summer, but none thereafter.
149

Sasou UaIdNva

THE ROSE

This class includes the Provence, the Mosses, the
Scotch and Austrian kinds, Harrison’s Yellow,
Madame Plantier, and the climbers.

The Hybrid Perpetuals bloom profusely in
early summer, and sparingly thereafter, at in-
tervals, until the coming of cold weather. These
are, in many respects, the most beautiful of all
Roses.

The ever-bloomers are made up of Bengal,
Bourbon, Tea and Noisette varieties. These are
small in habit of growth, but exquisitely beauti-
ful in form and color, and most kinds are so de-
lightfully fragrant, and flower so freely from
June to the coming of cold weather, that no gar-
den should be without a bed of them.

The Rugosa Roses are more valuable as shrubs
than as flowering plants, though their large,
bright, single flowers are extremely attractive.
Their chief attraction is their beautifully
crinkled foliage, of a rich green, and their bright
crimson fruit which is retained throughout the
season. This class gives flowers, at intervals,
from June to October.

Hybrid Perpetuals must be given special
treatment in order to secure flowers from them
throughout the season. Their blossoms are

always produced on new growth, therefore, if
143

THE ROSE

you would keep them producing flowers, you
must keep them growing. This is done by feed-
ing the plant liberally, and cutting back the
branches upon which flowers have been produced
to a strong bud from which a new branch can
be developed. In this way we keep the plant
constantly renewing itself, and in the process
of renewal we are likely to get a good many
flowers where we would get few, or none, if we
were to let the plant take care of itself. The term
“ perpetual ” is, however, a misleading one, as it
suggests a constant production of flowers. Most
varieties of this class, as has been said, will bloom
occasionally, after the first generous crop of the
season, but never very freely, and often not at
all unless the treatment outlined above is care-
fully followed. But so beautiful are the Roses
of this class that one fine flower is worth a score
of ordinary blossoms, and the lover of the Rose
will willingly devote a good deal of time and
labor to the production of it.

The Ramblers, now so popular, constitute a
class by themselves, in many respects. They are
of wonderfully vigorous habit, have a score or
more of flowers where others have but one bloom
early in the season, and give a wonderful show

of color. The individual blossoms are too small
144

woo

DOROTHY PERKINS ROSE—THE BEST OF THE RAMBLERS

THE ROSE

to please the critical Rose-grower, but there are
so many in each cluster, and these clusters are so
numerous, that the general effect is most charm-
ing. Crimson Rambler is too well known to
need description. The variety that deserves a
place at the very head of the list, allowing me to
be judge, is Dorothy Perkins. This variety is
of slenderer growth than Crimson Rambler,
therefore of more vine-like habit, and, on this
account, better adapted to use about porches and
verandas, where it can be trained along the cor-
nice in a graceful fashion that the stiff-branched
Crimson Rambler will not admit of. Its foliage
is not so large as that of the other variety named,
but it is much more attractive, being finely cut,
and having a glossy surface that adds much to
the beauty of the plant. But the chief charm of
the plant is its soft pink flowers, dainty and
delicate in the extreme. These are produced in
long, loose sprays instead of crowded clusters,
thus making the effect of a plant in full bloom
vastly more graceful than that of any of the
others of the class.

Roses have their enemies, and it would seem
as if there must be some sort of understanding
among them as to the date of attack, because

nearly all of them put in an appearance at about
10 45

THE ROSE

the same time. The aphis I find no difficulty in
keeping down by the use of Nicoticide—a very
strongly concentrated extract of the nicotine
principle of tobacco. This should be.diluted with
water, as directed on the cans or bottles in which
it is put up, and applied to all parts of the bush
with a sprayer. Do not wait for the aphis to
appear before beginning warfare against him.
You can count on his coming, therefore it is well
to act on the offensive, instead of the defensive,
for it is an easier matter to keep him away alto-
gether than it is to get rid of him after he has
taken possession of your bushes. If he finds the
tang of Nicoticide clinging to the foliage on his
arrival, he will speedily conclude that it will be
made extremely uncomfortable for him, if he
decides to locate, and he will look for more con-
genial quarters elsewhere.

For the worm that does so much injury to our
plants at the time when they are just getting
ready to bloom, I use an emulsion made by add-
ing two quarts kerosene to one part of laundry
soap. ‘The soap should be reduced to a liquid,
and allowed to become very hot, before the oil is
added. Then agitate the two rapidly and for-
cibly until they unite in a jelly-like substance.

The easiest and quickest way to secure an emul-
146

THE ROSE

sion is by using a brass syringe such as florists
sprinkle their plants with. Insert it in the vessel
containing the oil and soap, and draw into it as
much of the liquids as it will contain, and then
expel them with as much force as possible, and
continue to do this until the desired union has
taken place. Use one part of the emulsion to
eight or ten parts water, and make sure it reaches
every portion of the bush.

In Rose-culture, as in every branch of floricul-
ture, the price of success is constant vigilance.
If you do not get the start of insect enemies,
and keep them under control, they will almost in-
variably ruin your crop of flowers, and often the
bushes themselves. Therefore be thorough and
persistent in the warfare waged against the
common enemy, and do not relax your efforts
until he is routed.

In making a selection of Hybrid Perpetuals
for home planting, the amateur finds it difficult
to choose from the long lists sent out by many
dealers. He wants the best and most represen-
tative of the class, but he doesn’t know which
these are. If I were asked to select a dozen
kinds, my choice would be the following:

Alfred Colomb. Bright crimson. Fragrant.

Anna de Diesbach. Carmine. Fragrant.
147

THE ROSE

— ————4

Baroness Rothschild. Soft pink.

Captain Hayward. Deep rose. Perfect in
form.

Frau Carl Druschki. Pure white.

General Jacqueminot. Brilliant crimson.
Very sweet.

Jules Margottin. Rosy crimson.

Mabel Morrison. White, delicately shaded
with blush.

Magna Charta. Glowing carmine. A lovely
flower.

Madame Gabriel de Luizet. Delicate pink.
Exquisite.

Mrs. John Laing. Soft pink. Very fragrant.

Ulrich Brunner. Bright cherry red.

To increase the above list would be to dupli-
cate colors, for nearly all the other kinds in-
cluded in the dealers’ lists are variations of the
distinctive qualities of the above. The twelve
named will give you more pleasure than a larger
number of less distinctive kinds would, for in
each merit stands out pre-eminent, and all the
best qualities of the best Roses are represented
in the list.

THE ROSE AS A SUMMER
BEDDER

HE amateur gardener may
enjoy Roses from June to
November if he is willing to
take a little trouble for
them. Not, however, with
the material treated of in
the chapter on “'The Rose ”

—though what is said in it relative to the culture

of the Hybrid Perpetual class applies with con-

siderable pertinence to the classes of which I

shall make special mention in this chapter—but

with the summer-blooming sorts, such as the

Teas, the Bengals, the Bourbons, and the Nois-

ettes. These are classed in the catalogues as

ever-bloomers, and the term is much more ap-
propriate to them than the term Hybrid Per-
petual is to that section of the great Rose family,
for all of the four classes named above are really
ever-bloomers if given the right kind of treat-
ment—that is, bloomers throughout the summer
season. In them we find material from which it

is easy to secure a constant supply of flowers
149

THE ROSE AS A

from the beginning of summer to the closing
in of winter.

In order to grow this class of Roses well, one
must understand something of their habits. They
send out strong branches from the base of the
plant, shortly after planting, and these branches
will generally bear from five to eight blossoms.
When all the buds on the branch have developed
into flowers, nothing more can be expected from
that branch in the way of bloom, unless it can
be coaxed to send out other branches. This it can
be prevailed on to do by close pruning. Cut
the old branch back to some point along its
length—preferably near its base—where there is
a strong “eye” or bud. If the soil is rich—and
it can hardly be too rich, for these Roses, like
those of the kinds treated of in the foregoing
chapter, require strong food and a great deal of
it in order to do themselves justice—this bud
will soon develop into a vigorous branch which,
like the original one, will bear a cluster of
flowers. In order to keep a succession of bloom
it is absolutely necessary to keep the plant pro-
ducing new branches, as flowers are only borne
on new growth. It will be noticed that the treat-
ment required by these Roses is almost identical,
so far, with that advised for the Hybrid Per-

petuals. Indeed, the latter are summer ever-
150

SUMMER BEDDER

—

bloomers of a stronger habit than the class I am
now speaking about. That is about all the dif-
ference there is between them, up to this point,
except as regards the flowering habit. The Hy-
brid Perpetual blooms profusely in June and
July, but sparingly thereafter, while the ever-
bloomers bloom freely all the season after they
get a good start.

Fertilizer should be applied at least once a
month. Not in large quantities, each time, but
enough to stimulate a strong and healthy growth.
The plants should be kept going ahead con-
stantly. Let them get a check, and you will find
it a difficult matter to get many flowers from
them after that, the same season. Give them
the treatment that results in continuous growth
and you will have Roses in abundance up to the
coming of cold weather. Of course plants so
treated are not to be expected to attain much
size. But who cares for large bushes if he can
have fine flowers and plenty of them?

The blossoms from the Teas and their kindred
are never as large as those of the June and the
Hybrid Perpetual classes, and, as a general
thing, are not as brilliant in color. Some are de-
lightfully fragrant, while some have no fragrance
at all.

La France,—which is classed as a Hybrid Tea,
151

THE ROSE AS A

because it is the result of hybridizing one of
the hardier varieties with a pure-blooded Tea
variety,—is one of the finest Roses ever grown.
It is large, and fine in form, rich, though not
brilliant, in color, is a very free bloomer, and
its fragrance is indescribably sweet. Indeed, all
the sweetness of the entire Rose family seems
concentrated in its peculiar, powerful, but, at the
same time, delicate odor. Color, pale pink.

Duchess de Brabant is an old variety, popular
years and years ago, but all the better for that,
for its long-continued popularity proves it the
possessor of exceptional merit. It is of very
free development, and bears large quantities of
flowers of silvery pink.

Viscountess Folkestone is, like La France, a
Hybrid Tea. It is an excellent bloomer. Its
color is a soft pink, shaded with cream, with
reflexed petals. It has a rich, June-Rose fra-
grance.

Maman Cochet is, all things considered, one
of the best of its class. It blooms in wonderful
profusion. It is a strong grower. : Its color is
a bright pink, overlaid with silvery lustre. It is
very double, and quite as lovely in bud as in the
expanded flower.

Hermosa is an old favorite. It is always in
152

TEA ROSE

SUMMER BEDDER

bloom when well cared for. Its rich carmine-
rose flowers are very double, and are produced in
prodigal profusion. But it lacks the charm of
fragrance.

Caprice is a very peculiar variety. Its thick,
waxen petals of rosy carmine are heavily
blotched and striped with dark red, shading to
crimson. It is most pleasing when the flower
begins to expand.

Perle des Jardins is a most lovely Rose, of
almost as rich a color as the famous Marechal
Neil,—a deep, glowing yellow,—lovely beyond
description. It is a very free bloomer, and
should be given a place in all collections.

Sunset—another good bloomer—is a tawny
yellow in color, flamed with fawn and coppery
tints. It is an exquisite Rose.

Clothilde Soupert does not properly belong to
either of the four classes mentioned above,
though of course closely related. It is cata-
logued as a Polyantha. Its habit is peculiar.
It bears enormous quantities of flowers, with
the greatest freedom of any Rose I have ever
grown, but its blossoms are small, and are pro-
duced in clusters quite unlike those of the other
members of the ever-blooming class. Indeed,

its habit of growth and flowering is quite like
158

THE ROSE AS A

tense — een,
—— — —

that of the Rambler varieties, on a small scale.
But, unlike the Ramblers, its flowers are very
double. They are produced at the extremity
of the new branches, in clusters of fifteen to
twenty and thirty. So many are there to each
branch that you will find it advisable to thin out
half of them if you want perfect flowers. In
color it is a delicate pink on first opening, fading
to almost white. At the centre of the flower
it is a bright carmine. Give this variety a trial
and you will be delighted with it.

It must not be understood that the above list
includes all the desirable sorts adapted to general
culture. It is simply a list of the most distinct
varieties that respond satisfactorily to the treat-
ment outlined, and from which the amateur gar-
dener can expect the best results. There are
scores of other varieties possessing exceptional
merit, but many of them require the attention
of the professional in order to give satisfaction,
and are not what I feel warranted in recom-
mending the amateur to undertake the culture of
if large quantities of flowers are what he has in
mind. Every one on the list given is a standard
variety, and you will find that you have made no
mistake in confining your selection to it.

I would advise the purchase of two-year-old
154

SUMMER BEDDER
——————————————————— ee

plants. Younger plants seldom bloom with much
profusion the first season.

Order your plants in April. Get them into
the ground about the middle of May. Mulch the
soil about them well. This will do away with the
necessity of watering if the season happens to
prove a dry one. In planting, be governed by
the directions given in the chapter on “ The
Rose.”

Try a bed of these ever-bloomers for a season
and you will never afterward be without them.
Other flowers will rival them in brilliance, per-
haps, and may require less attention, but—they
will not be Roses! One fine Rose affords more
pleasure to the lover of the best among flowers
than a whole garden full of ordinary blossoms
can, and this is why I urge all flower-loving peo-
ple to undertake the culture of the ever-blooming
class of Roses, for I know they will give greater
satisfaction than anything else you can grow.

In fall, the plants can be taken up, packed
away in boxes of earth, and kept in the cellar
over winter. Cut away almost the entire top
when the plants are lifted. -All that one cares to
carry through the winter is the root of the plant.

THE DAHLIA

—— ee

HIRTY or forty years ago
the Dahlia was one of our
popular flowers. ‘That is,
popular among those who
aspired to “keep up with
the times,” and grow all the
new plants that had real

merit in them. ‘At that time but one form of it

was considered worth growing, and that was the
very double, globular type of flower. The single
varieties were looked upon as worthless.

After a time the popularity of the flower
waned for some reason hard to account for, ex-
cept on the theory that there are fashions in
flowers as in clothes. I presume that the true
explanation is that we Americans are prone to
run to extremes, and when we take up a plant
and it becomes a favorite we overdo matters and
tire of it because we see so much of it. Then we
relegate it to the background for a time, and
after awhile we drag it out of the obscurity to
which we temporarily consigned it as a penalty

for its popularity, and straightway it comes into
156

THE DAHLIA

greater prominence than ever, precisely as does
the cut of a sleeve or the style of hair-dressing.
This explanation may not be very complimentary
to American good sense or taste, but I think it
goes to the root of the matter. It is sincerely to
be hoped that the time will come when our flower-
growing will have no trace of the fad about it,
and that whatever we cultivate will grow into
favor solely because of real merit, and that its
popularity will be permanent. I am encouraged
to think that such may be the case, for some of
the favorite flowers of the day have held their
own against all newcomers for a considerable
period, and seem to be growing in favor every
year. This is as it should be.

It used to be thought that the Dahlia could not
be grown successfully at the north if it were not
started into growth in the house, or greenhouse,
very early in the season. Nine times out of ten
the result was a weak, spindling plant by the
time it was safe to put it into the ground—
which was not until all danger from frost was
over. Generally such plants were not strong
enough to bloom until about the time frost came
in fall, for it took them the greater part of the
season to recover from the effect of early forcing,

in which the vitality of the plant suffered almost
187

THE DAHLIA

to the point of extinction, and to which was
added the ordeal of the change from in- to out-
door conditions. “ Our seasons are too short for
it,’ was the universal verdict. “ At the south
it may do well, but there’s no use in trying to do
anything with it at the north unless one has
a greenhouse, and understands the peculiarities
of the plant better than the rank and file of
flower-loving people can expect to.” So it came
about that its cultivation was given up by small
gardeners, and it was seen only on the grounds
of the wealthier people, who could afford the
services of the professional gardener.

We have learned, of late years, that our treat-
ment of the plant was almost the opposite of
what was required.

Some eight or ten years ago, I ordered a col-
lection of choice varieties of the Dahlia. I
ordered them early in the season, expecting to
start them into growth in pots as usual. For
some reason they did not come until the last day
of May. It was then too late to start them in
the usual way, and I planted them in the garden,
expecting they would amount to nothing.

The result was, to me, a most surprising one.

The place in which I planted them was one

whose soil was very rich and mellow. It was
158

THE DAHLIA

near a pump, from which a great deal of water
was thrown out every day.

In less than a week after planting, the tubers
threw up strong shoots, and these grew very
rapidly under the combined effects of rich soil,
warmth, and plenty of moisture at the roots.
Indeed, they went ahead so rapidly that I con-
sidered their growth a discouraging feature, as
I felt sure it must be a weak one.

The result was that when the State Horticul-
tural Society held its summer meeting in the vil-
lage in which I resided, on the twenty-eighth of
August, I placed on exhibition some of the finest
specimens of Dahlia blossoms the members of
the Society had ever seen, and carried off eight
first premiums.

Since then I have never attempted to start my
Dahlias in the house. I give them an extremely
rich soil, spaded up to the depth of at least a foot
and a half, and made so mellow that the new
roots find it an easy matter to work their way
through it. Water is applied freely during the
season. I consider this an item of great impor-
tance, as I find that the plant fails to make satis-
factory development when located in a dry place.
A pailful of water a day is not too much to

apply to each plant in a dry season.
159

THE DAHLIA

The soil must be rich. In a poor soil develop-
ment will be on a par with that of plants which
have been given a dry place.

Because of the peculiar brittleness of the stalks
of the Dahlia it is quite necessary to furnish them
with good support. My plan is to set a stout
stake by each plant, at planting-time. This
should be at least five feet tall. I put it in place
at the time of planting the tuber, because then I
know just where the root of the future plant is,
and can set the stake without injuring it. But if
stake-setting is left until later in the season one
runs a risk of breaking off some of the new
tubers that have formed about the old one. I tie
the main stalk of the plant to the stake with a
strip of cloth instead of a string, as the latter
will cut into the soft wood. Sometimes, if the
plant sends up a good many stalks, it will be
necessary to furnish additional support. Unless
some kind of support is given we are likely to
get up some morning after a heavy rain, or a
sudden wind, and find our plants broken down,
and in attempting to save them we are pretty
sure to complete the wreck, as a slight twist or
turn in the wrong direction will snap the stalk
off at its junction with the root.

The Dahlia will be found one of our very best
160

CACTUS DAHLIA

THE DAHLIA

plants for use in the border where something is
needed for a filler. It is very effective as a
hedge, and can be used to great advantage to
hide a fence. Single specimens are fine for
prominent locations on the grounds about the
house. In fact, it is a plant that can be made
useful anywhere.

In fall, when our early frosts come, it will be
necessary to protect it on cool nights, as it is
extremely tender. This can be easily done by
setting some stout sticks about the plant and
covering it with a sheet. If tided over the frosty
weather that usually comes for two or three
nights about the middle of September, it will
bloom profusely during the weeks of pleasant
weather that almost always follow the early
frosts, and then is when it will be enjoyed most.

When the frost has killed its stalks, it should
be dug and got ready for winter. Lift the great
mass of roots that will have grown from the little
tuber planted at the beginning of the season, and
do this without breaking them apart, if possible.
Spread them out in the sun. At night cover
with a blanket, and next day expose them to
sunshine again. Do this for several days in suc-
cession until the soil that is lifted with them will

crumble away easily. Exposure to sunshine has
iW 161

THE DAHLIA

the effect of relieving them of a good deal of
moisture which they contain in great quantity
when first dug, and which ought to be got rid of,
in a large degree, before they are stored in the
cellar.

The tubers should never be placed on the
cellar-bottom, because of the dampness that is
generally found there. I spread mine out on
shelves of wire netting, suspended four or five
feet from the floor. If they show signs of mould
I know they are too damp, and elevate the shelves
still more, in order to get the tubers into a dryer
stratum of air. If they seem to be shrivelling
too much, I lower the shelves a little. Cellars
differ so much that one can only tell where the
right place is by experimenting. Watch your
tubers carefully. A little neglect will often re-
sult in failure, as mould, once given a chance to
secure a foothold, is rapid in its action, and your
tubers may be beyond help before you discover
that there is anything the matter with them. As
soon as you find a mouldy root, throw it out. If
left it will speedily communicate its disease to
every plant with which it comes in contact. Some
persons tell me that they succeed in wintering
their Dahlia tubers best by packing them in

boxes of perfectly dry sand. If this is done, be
162

THE DAHLIA

sure to elevate the box from the floor of the
cellar.

Quite naturally persons have an idea that the
best results will be secured by planting out the
whole bunch of tubers, in spring. This is a
mistake. One good tuber, with an “eye,” or
growing point, will make a much better plant
than the whole bunch set out together.

To sum up the treatment I advise in the culti-
vation of the Dahlia:

Have the ground very rich.

Have it worked deeply.

Plant single tubers about the first of June.

Furnish a good support.

See that the ground is well supplied with
moisture.

There has been a great change of opinion with
regard to the Dahlia. We no longer confine
ourselves to one type of it. The single varieties,
which were despised of old, are now prime favor-
ites—preferred by many to any other kind. The
old very double “ show” and “ fancy ” varieties
are largely grown, but they share public favor
with the “ decoratives,” the pompones, and the
cactus, and, as I have said, the single forms.
Which of these forms is most popular it would

be hard to say. All of them have enthusiastic
168

THE DAHLIA

a
————

champions, and the best thing to do is to try them
all.

“Show” Dahlias are those with large and
very double flowers of a single color, and those
in which the ground color is of a lighter shade
than the edges or tips of the petals. The outer
petals recurve, as the flower develops, until they
meet at the stem, thus giving us a ball-like
blossom.

“Fancy” Dahlias are those having striped
petals, and those in which the ground color is
darker than the edges or tips of the petals. This
class, as a rule, is very variable, and a plant will
often have flowers showing but one color. Some-
times half the flower will be one color, half
another.

The Pompone or Liliputian class is a minia-
ture edition of the show and fancy sorts, quite as
rich in color and perfect in form as either, but
of a dwarf habit of growth. This class is well
adapted to bedding out in summer.

The Cactus Dahlia has long pointed or twisted
petals. Most varieties are single, but some are
semi-double. This is the class that will be likely
to find favor with those who admire the ragged
Japanese Chrysanthemums.

Decorative Dahlias have broad, flat petals,
164

THE DAHLIA

somewhat loosely arranged, and much less for-
mal than those of the show, fancy, or pompone
sorts. Their flowers seldom have more than two
rows of petals, and are flat, showing a yellow
dise at the centre. ‘As a general thing they are
produced on long stalk, a flower to a stalk. This
makes them very useful for cutting. They are
the most graceful members of the entire Dahlia
family, allowing me to be judge.

The single type has but one row of petals.
Plants of this class are very strong growers, and
can be used to advantage in the back rows of the
border.

No flower in cultivation to-day has a wider
range of color than the Dahlia, and nearly all the
colors represented in it are wonderfully rich in
tone. From the purest white to the richest
crimson, the deepest scarlet, delicate pink and
carmine, rich yellow, dark purple, orange and
palest primrose,—surely all tastes can find some-
thing to please them.

THE GLADIOLUS

NE of the most popular

flowers of the day is the
Gladiolus. All things
considered, it is our best
summer bloomer. Noth-
ing in the floral world ex-
ceeds it in variety and
range of color. This color is in some varieties
dark and rich in scarlets, crimsons, and purples,
in others dainty and delicate in pink, pearly flesh,
almost pure white, and softest rose, while the
midway sorts are in brilliant carmines, cherry-
reds, lilacs, and intermediate tones too numerous
to mention. Nearly all varieties show most mag-
nificent combinations of color that baffle descrip-
tion. Comparatively few varieties are one color
throughout.

Most plants in which such a_ bewildering
variety of color is found have a tendency to
coarseness, but this objection cannot be urged
against the Gladiolus. It has all the delicacy of
the Orchid. Its habit of growth fits it admirably

for use in the border, Its ease of cultivation
166

THE GLADIOLUS

makes it a favorite with the amateur who has
only a limited amount of time to spend among
the flowers. It is a plant that any one can grow,
and it is a plant that will grow almost anywhere.
It is one of the few plants that seem almost able
to take care of themselves. Beyond putting the
corms in the ground, in spring, and an occasional
weeding as the plant develops, very little atten-
tion is required.

'To secure the best effect from it, the Gladiolus
should be planted in masses. Single specimens
are far less satisfactory. One must see fifty or
a hundred plants in a bed ten or fifteen feet long
to fully appreciate what it is capable of doing.

The time to plant it is in May, after the soil
has become warm. Nothing is gained by earlier
planting.

The bed should be spaded to the depth of a
foot, at least. 'Then the soil should be worked
over until it is fine and light. A liberal quantity
of some good fertilizer should be added to it.
Commercial fertilizers seem to suit it well, but the
use of barnyard manure gives excellent results,
and I would prefer it, if obtainable.

The corms should be put about four inches be-
low the surface, care being exercised at the time

of planting to see that they are right side up. It
167

THE GLADIOLUS

— ——
——

is often difficult to decide this matter before
sprouting begins, but a little careful examination
of the corm will soon enable you to tell where
the sprouts will start from, and this will prevent
you from getting it wrong-side up. As soon
as the plants send up a stalk, some provision
should be made for future support. If you pre-
fer to stake the beds, set the stakes in rows about
two feet apart. Wire or cord need not be
stretched on them until the stalks are half grown.
‘The reason for setting the stakes early in the
season is—you know just where the corm is then,
but later on you will not be able to tell where the
new corms are, and in setting the stakes at ran-
dom you are quite likely to injure them. When
you apply the cord or wire to the stakes, run it
lengthwise of the bed, and then across it in order
to furnish a sufficient support without obliging
the stalks to lean from the perpendicular to get
the benefit of it.

For several seasons past, I have made use of a
coarse-meshed wire netting, placed over the bed,
and fastened to stakes about eighteen inches
high. The stalks find no difficulty in making
their way through the large meshes of the net-
ting, and with a support of this kind they dispose

themselves in a natural manner that is far more
168

THE GLADIOLUS

satisfactory than tying them to stakes, as we
often see done. Some kind of a support must
be given if we would guard against injury caused
by strong winds. When the flower-stalk is once
prostrated it is a difficult matter to get it back in
place without breaking it.

If netting is used it need not be placed over
the bed before the middle of July. By that time
most of the weeds which require attention during
the early part of the season will have been dis-
posed of. Putting on the netting at an earlier
period would greatly interfere with the proper
cultivation of the bed. The soil should be kept
light and open until the flower-stalks begin to
show their buds.

The flowering-period covers several weeks, be-
ginning in August, and lasting all through Sep-
tember.

The Gladiolus is extremely effective for in-
terior decorative work. It lasts for days after
being cut. Indeed, if cut when the first flowers
at the base of the spike open, it will continue to.
develop the buds above until all have become
flowers, if the water in which the stalks are placed
is changed daily, and a bit of the end of the stalk
is cut off each time. For church use no flower

excels it except the Lily, and that we can have
169

THE GLADIOLUS

for only a short time, and quite often not at all.

In late October the plants should be lifted,
and spread out in the sunshine to ripen. Do not
cut the stalks away until you are ready to store
the corms. Then cut off each stalk about two
inches from its junction with the corm. When
the roots seem well dried out, put them in paper
bags containing perfectly dry sawdust or buck-
wheat shells, and hang them in a dry place where
the frost will not get at them. I would not
advise storing them in the cellar, as they gener-
ally mould or mildew there.

Most varieties increase quite rapidly. You
will find several new corms in fall, taking the
place of the old one planted in spring. Often
there will be scores of little fellows the size of a
pea, clustered about the larger corms. These
should be saved, and planted out next spring.
Sow them close together in rows, as you would
wheat. The following year they will bloom.

So extensively is the Gladiolus grown at the
present time that enough to fill a good-sized bed
can be bought for a small sum. And in no other
way can you invest a little money and be sure of
such generous returns. What the Geranium is
to the window-garden that the Gladiolus is to the
outdoor garden, and one is of as easy culture as

the other.
170

A GARDEN GLIMPSE

THE GLADIOLUS

Some of the choicest varieties are sold at a high
price. One reason for this is—the finest varieties
are slow to increase, and it takes a long time to
get much of a stock together. This is why they
are so rare, and so expensive. But many of
them are well worth all that is asked for them.

You may have a mixed collection of a thousand
plants and fail to find a worthless variety among
them. Indeed, some of the very finest flowers
I have ever had have been grown from collec-
tions that cost so little that one hardly expected
to find anything but the commonest flowers
among them.

LILIES

HE Rose, like the Lily, is a
general favorite. It has
more than once disputed the
claim of its rival to the title
of Queen of Flowers, and
though it has never suc-
ceeded in taking the place

of the latter in the estimation of the average

flower-lover, it occupies a position in the floral
world that no other flower dare aspire to.

This plant does well only in soils that have
the best of drainage. Water, if allowed to stand
about its roots in spring, will soon be the death
of it.

Therefore, in planting it be sure to choose a
location that is naturally well drained, or provide
artificial drainage that will make up for the lack
of natural drainage. ‘This is an item you cannot
afford to overlook if you want to grow the finest
varieties of Lilies in your garden. Some of our
native Lilies grow on low lands, and do well
there, but none of the choicer kinds would long

survive under such conditions. The probabili-
172

LILIES

ties are that if we planted them there we would
never see anything more of them.

The ideal soil for the Lily seems to be a fine
loam. I have grown good ones, however, in a
soil containing considerable clay and gravel.
‘This was on a sidehill where drainage was per-
fect. Had the location been lower, or a level one,
very likely the plants would not have done so
well.

The bulbs should be put into the ground ad
early in September as possible.

On no account allow the bulbs to be exposed to
the air. If you do, they will rapidly part with
the moisture stored up in their scales, and this
is their life-blood.

It is a good plan to put a handful of clean,
coarse sand about each bulb at planting-time.

If barnyard manure is used,—and there is
nothing better in the way of fertilizer for any
bulb,—be sure that it is old and well rotted. On
no account should fresh manure be allowed to
come in contact with a Lily. If barnyard ma-
nure is not to be had, use bonemeal. Mix it well
with the soil before putting the bulbs into it.

Bulbs of ordinary size should be planted about
eight inches below the surface. If in groups,
about a foot apart.

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LILIES

The best place for Lilies, so far as show goes,
is among shrubbery, or in the border.

Below I give a list of the best varieties for
general cultivation, with a brief description of
each:

Auratum (the Gold-Banded Lily) —Probably
the most popular member of the family, though
by no means the most beautiful. Flowers white,
dotted with crimson, with a gold band running
through each petal.

Speciosum album.—aA_ beautiful pure-white
variety. Deliciously fragrant.

Speciosum rubrum (the Crimson-Banded
Lily).—Flowers white with a red band down
each petal.

Brownsii.—A splendid variety. Flowers very
large, and trumpet-shaped. Chocolate-purple
outside, pure white within, with dark brown sta-
mens that contrast finely with the whiteness of
the inner part of the petals.

Tigrinum (Tiger Lily).—One of the hardiest
of all Lilies. Flowers orange-red, spotted with
brownish-black. This will succeed where none of
the others will. Should be given a place in all
gardens.

Superbum.—The finest of all our native Lilies,

Orange flowers, spotted with purple. Often
174

AURATUM LILY

LILIES

————o—o—£—€—€$T=£=_£z{z_£_{£_&_«c<«&w«-_iX_—E——————

grows to a height of eight feet, therefore is well
adapted to prominent positions in the border.

While the Lily of the Valley is, strictly speak-
ing, not a Lily, it deserves mention here. It is
one of the most beautiful flowers we grow, of
the purest white, and with the most delightful
fragrance, and foliage that admirably sets off
the exquisite loveliness of its flowers. No gar-
den that “lives up to its privileges” will be
without it. It does best in a shady place. Almost
any soil seems to suit it. It is very hardy. It
spreads rapidly, sending up a flower-stalk from
every “pip.” When the ground becomes com-
pletely matted with it, it is well to go over the
bed and cut out portions here and there. The
roots thus cut away can be broken apart and
used in the formation of new beds, of which there
can hardly be too many. The roots of the old
plants will soon fill the places from which these
were taken, and the old bed will be all the better
for its thinning-out. Coming so early in spring,
we appreciate this most beautiful plant more
than we do any flower of the later season. And
no flower of any time can excel it in daintiness,
purity, and sweetness,

PLANTS FOR SPECIAL
PURPOSES

ATEUR gardeners are
always wanting plants for
some special purpose, and,
for their benefit, I propose
to devote this chapter to
“ special-purpose” informa-
tion.

‘“* What shall we grow to shade doors and win-
dows? We want something that will grow rap-
idly. Ifa flowering vine, all the better, but shade
is the all-important consideration.”

The best large-growing vine for this purpose,
all things considered, is the Wild Cucumber.
No other annual vine exceeds it in rapidity of
growth. It will grow twenty or twenty-five feet
in a season, if given something to support it to
that height, therefore it is very useful about the
second-story windows, which height few of our
annual vines attain. It has very bright-green,
pretty foliage, somewhat resembling that of the
native Grape, though not so large. About mid-

summer it comes into bloom. Its flowers are
176

FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES

————
—

white,—delicate, fringy little things, in spikes,
with a very agreeable fragrance, especially in the
morning when wet with dew,—and there are so
many of them that the vine looks as if drifted
over with a fall of snow. The plant has tendrils
by which it attaches itself to anything with which
it comes in contact, consequently strings, lattice-
work, or wire netting answer equally well for its
support. Its tendency is to go straight up, if
whatever support is given encourages it to do so,
but if you think advisable to divert it from its
upward course all you have to do is to stretch
strings in whatever direction you want it to grow,
and it will follow them. Its flowers are followed
by balloon-shaped fruit, covered with prickly
spines—little ball-shaped cucumbers, hence the
popular name of the plant. When the seeds
ripen, the ball or pod bursts open, and the black
seeds are shot out with considerable force, often
to a distance of twenty feet or more. In this
way the plant soon spreads itself all over the
garden, and next spring you will have seedling
plants by the hundred. It soon becomes a wild
plant, and is often seen growing all along the
roadside, and never quite so much “ at home”
as when it finds a thicket of bushes to clamber

over. It has one drawback, however, which will
12 Vit

PLANTS FOR

be especially noticeable when the plant is domes-
ticated: Its early leaves ripen and fall off while
those farther up the vine are in their prime, and
remain so until frost comes. But this defect can
easily be remedied by growing some tall plant at
the base of the vines to hide their nakedness.

Another most excellent vine is the good old
Morning Glory, with its blue, purple, violet,
pink, carmine, and white flowers produced in
such profusion that they literally cover its upper
branches during the early part of the day. This
is a very satisfactory vine to train about door and
window. Do not give it ordinary twine as a
support, as the weight of the vines, when well
developed, is almost sure to break it down.
Stout cord, such as is used in binding grain, is the
best thing I know of, as it is rather rough, thus
enabling the vine to take hold of it with good
effect. This is a rapid grower, and a wonder-
fully free bloomer, and it will give you flowers
throughout the season. It is much showier than
the Wild Cucumber, but its foliage lacks the
delicacy which characterizes that plant.

Another good vine for covering porches, veran-
das, and summer-houses, is the Japan Hop.
This plant—it is an annual, like the other two

of which mention has been made—has foliage of
178

SPECIAL PURPOSES

a rich, dark green, broadly and irregularly
blotched and marbled with creamy white and
pale yellow. It grows rapidly, and gives a dense
shade.

“IT would like a sort of hedge, or screen, be-
tween the flower and the vegetable garden.
What plants would you advise for this pur-
pose?”

The Zinnia is an excellent plant where a low
hedge is desired. It averages a height of three
feet. It is compact and symmetrical in habit,
branching quite close to the ground. It is a rapid
grower, and of the very easiest culture. It comes
into bloom in July, and continues to produce
great quantities of flowers, shaped like miniature
Dahlias, in red, scarlet, pink, yellow, orange, and
white, until frost comes. It makes a most gor-
geous show.

Kochia, more commonly known as “ Burning
Bush ” or “ Mexican Fire-Plant,” is a charming
thing all through the season. In summer it is a
pleasing green. In fall it turns to a brilliant
red, hence its popular names, as given above.
Its habit is very compact, and one of great sym-
metry. If the plants are set about a foot apart,
and in two rows,—these rows a foot apart,—you

will have a low hedge that will be as smooth as
179

PLANTS FOR

one of Arbor Vite after the gardener has given
it its annual shearing. When the bush takes on
its autumnal coloring it is as showy as a plant can
well be, and is always sure of attracting atten-
tion, and being greatly admired.

Amaranthus is another very pleasing plant for
hedge purposes. It grows to a height of about
four feet. Some varieties have a dark, bronze-
green foliage, others foliage of a dull, rich
Indian-red, while some are yellow-green—quite
rare among plants of this class. The flowers,
which are small, individually, are thickly set
along pendant stems, and give the effect of ropes
of chenille. In color they are a dull red, not
at all showy in the sense of brilliance, but really
charming when seen dropping in great profusion
against the richly colored foliage. Our grand-
mothers grew the original varieties of this plant
under the name of “ Prince’s Plume,” “ Prince’s
Feather,” or “ Love Lies Bleeding.” But since
the florists have taken it in hand, and greatly im-
proved it, it no longer retains the good old names
which always meant something. To secure the
best results with this plant, when grown as a
hedge or screen, set it in rows about a foot apart,
each way, and use some of the dwarf sorts for the
front row. Or a flowering plant of contrasting

color—like the Nasturtium, or the double yellow
180

THE ODDS AND ENDS CORNER

SPECIAL PURPOSES

Marigold, or the velvety African variety, with
flowers of a dark maroon shading to blackish-
brown—can be grown at its base, with fine effect.

Sweet Peas make a good screen if given
proper support, and planted thickly.

“T would like a large group or bed of orna-
mental foliaged plants on the lawn, but have
grown rather tired of Cannas and Caladiums.
What would you suggest? I don’t want any-
thing hard to grow.” .

If very large plants are wanted, I would ad-
vise, as best of all, Ricinus, better known, per-
haps, as Castor Bean, or Castor Plant. This is
an annual of wonderfully vigorous growth. It
often reaches a height of ten feet, in good soil,
with a corresponding spread of branches. Its
leaves are often a yard across, of a dark coppery
bronze, with a purplish metallic lustre that makes
the plant very striking. The best effect is se-
cured by growing four or five plants in a group.
None of the tropical plants that have come into
prominence in gardening, during the past ten
or twelve years, are nearly as effective as this
easily-grown annual, whose seeds sell at five
cents a package. For a very prominent location
on the lawn or anywhere about the home-grounds
no better plant could be selected.

‘The Amaranthus advised for hedge use makes
18]

PLANTS FOR

a very showy circular bed on the lawn when
grown in large masses, in the centre, surrounded
with flowering plants of a strongly contrasting
but harmonious color. ‘The Calliopsis, rich
golden-yellow marked with brown, combines
charmingly with the dull, deep, rich reds which
characterize the foliage and flowers of the most
desirable varieties of this too much neglected
annual. There are new varieties advertised of
rather dwarf habit, with golden-green foliage,
that could be used about the red-leaved kinds
with fine effect.

“T would like a bed of very brilliant flowers
for the front yard. Can’t have many, for I
haven’t time to take care of them, so want those
which will give the most show for the least
trouble. Would like something so bright that it
will compel people to stop and look at it. What
shall I get?”

An exceedingly brilliant combination ean be
made by the use of scarlet Salvia, as the centre
of a bed six or eight feet across, with Calliopsis
surrounding it. The scarlet and yellow of these
two flowers will make the place fairly blaze with
color, and they will continue to bloom until frost
comes. They require next to no care.

The annual Phlox makes a fine show if proper
182

SPECIAL PURPOSES

care is taken in the arrangement of the various
colors with a view to contrast. The pale rose
variety combines beautifully with the pure whites
and pale yellows. A bed of these three colors
alone will be found much more satisfactory than
one in which a larger number of colors are used.
Set each color in a row by itself. Such a bed will
“compel ” persons to stop and admire it, but they
will do it for the sake of its beauty rather than
its great brilliance.

Petunias are excellent plants for large beds
where a strong show of color is desired. They
bloom early, continue through the season, and
require very little care.

The Shirley Poppy makes a brave show about
the last of July, but after that it soon dies. If it
were an all-season bloomer it would be one of
our most popular plants for producing a bril-
liant effect. I would advise using it, and filling
the bed in which it grew with other plants, after
its flowering period was over. Its rich colors
and satiny texture make it a plant that always
attracts attention.

Scarlet Geraniums are used a great deal where
a strong color-show is desired, but they are not as
satisfactory as many other plants because of their

ragged look, after a little, unless constantly given
188

PLANTS FOR

care. The first flowers in truss will fade, and
their discolored petals will spoil the effect of the
flowers that come after them if they are allowed
to remain. It is not much of a task to go over
the plants and pull out these faded flowers every.
day, but we are not likely to do this. I prefer
single Geraniums to double ones for garden use,
because they drop their old petals, and never take
on the ragged appearance which characterizes the
ordinary bedding Geranium.

“ T would like a low bed—that is, a bed near the
path where it will be looked down upon. Tall
plants would be out of place there. Tell me of
a few of the best kinds for such a location.”

The Portulacca is well adapted to such use, as
jt never grows to be more than three or four
inches in height, but spreads in a manner to make
it look like a green carpet, upon which it displays
its flowers of red, rose, scarlet, yellow and white
with very vivid effect. This plant might well be
called a vegetable salamander, as it flourishes in
dry, hot locations where other plants would
utterly fail. It fairly revels in the hot sunshine
of midsummer.

The good old Verbena is another very desirable
plant for a low bed. It is of spreading habit,
blooms profusely and constantly, and comes in a

wide range of beautiful colors.
184

SPECIAL PURPOSES

The Ageratum is a lovely plant for a low bed,
with its great masses of soft lavender flowers.
Fine effects are secured by using dark yellow
Coleus or golden Pansies as an edging, these
colors contrasting exquisitely with the dainty
lavender-blue of the Ageratum.

“What flowers shall we grow to cut from?
Would like something that is not coarse, and
something that will bloom for a long time, and
has long stems.”

At the head of the list I would place the Sweet
Pea. This is a favorite, everywhere, for cutting.
‘The most useful varieties are the delicate rose
and white ones, the pure whites, the pale pinks,
the dainty lavenders, and the soft primrose
yellows.

The Nasturtium is an old favorite for cutting,
and a corner of every garden ought to be given
up to a few plants of it for the special purpose
of furnishing cut flowers.

The Aster is a magnificent flower,—it seems
to be growing better and better each year, if such
a thing is possible,—and nothing else among the
annuals compares with it in lasting quality, when
cut. Ifthe water in which it is placed is changed
daily, it will last for two weeks, and seem as fresh
at the end of that time as when first cut. The
most useful variety for cutting is the “ Branch-

185

PLANTS FOR

ing Aster,” with stems a foot or more in length.
This makes the flowers of this class particularly
useful for vases. I would advise growing three
colors, when it is wanted solely for cutting—
white, pale rose, and delicate lavender.

The newer varieties of Dahlia—especially the
“ decorative” section—are superb for cutting.
Their flowers are not formal like those of the old
double kinds, and being borne on long stalks,
they can be arranged very gracefully. Like
the Aster, they last well. They will be found
among the most useful of our late flowers for
large vases, and where striking and brilliant
effects of color are desired.

The Gladiolus is also well adapted to cutting,
and is very effective when used in tall vases, the
entire stalk being taken.

Scabiosa, often known as “ Mourning Bride,”
is an excellent plant for vase-use, and deserves
more attention than it has heretofore enjoyed.
Its flowers are quite unlike most other annuals
in color, and will be appreciated on that account.
The dark purple varieties combine delightfully
with those of a lighter tone in yellow, and with
pure whites. As the blossoms are produced on
long stems, they dispose themselves very grace-

fully when used in rather deep vases.
186

SPECIAL PURPOSES

Every garden should have several plants of
Mignonette in it, grown for the especial purpose
of cutting from. This is one of the most fra-
grant flowers we have among the annuals.

For small vases—little vases for the breakfast
table, or the desk, and for gifts to friends—one
ought to grow quantities of Heliotropes, Tea
Roses, and Pansies.

To cut from, early in spring, nothing is love-
lier than the Lily of the Valley.

For larger vases, the Dicentra is always pleas-
ing, coming close after the Lily of the Valley.
Cut it with a good deal of foliage, and be careful
to give each stalk ample room in which to adjust
itself. A vase with a flaring top is what this
flower ought to have, as its stalks have just the
curve that fits the flare. <A straight vase obliges
it to stand up so primly that half the charm of
the flower is destroyed.

For late fall cutting, there is no other flower
quite equal to the Cosmos. The pink and white
varieties are lovely when cut by the branch, and
used in large vases. They seem especially
adapted to church decoration.

“We want some flowers that will bloom late
in the season. ‘Are there any that can be de-

pended on after early frosts? ”
187

FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES

Yes. First on the list I would name the Aster.
This sturdy annual is seldom at its best before the
first frosts, and can be considered in its prime
during the first half of October. And it will last
until cold weather sets in.

Ten Week Stock—the “Gillyflower” of
grandmother’s garden—is a late bloomer. The
snows of November often find it full of flowers,
and are powerless to injure it. It is delightfully
fragrant, and particularly adapted to cutting,
because of its long spikes of bloom. It comes in
white, rosy-purple, red, and sulphur-yellow.

The Marguerite Carnation deserves a place in
every garden because of its great beauty, and its
late-flowering habit. While not all the plants
grown from seed will give double flowers, a large
share of them will be so, and in form, size, and
color they will compare very favorably with the
greenhouse varieties of this favorite flower.
Most of them will have the true Carnation fra-
grance. For choice little bouquets, for home use,
or to give your especial friends nothing can be
more satisfactory. You can expect a dozen
flowers from each plant where you would get
but one from the greenhouse sorts,

ARBORS, SUMMER-HOUSES,
PERGOLAS, AND OTHER
GARDEN FEATURES

EW persons who daily pass
attractive homes in the sub-
urban districts of our large
cities and the outlying coun-
try, realize that much of
their charm is due to effects
which require a compara-

tively small outlay in dollars and cents. Good

taste, combined with a degree of skill that is
within reach of most of us, represent the chief
part of the investment. And yet—these little,
inexpensive things are the very ones that pro-
duce the pleasing effects we are all striving after
in our efforts to make home attractive. Most
of them convey an impression of being made for
use, not show. They are in a class with the broad-
seated, wide-armed “ old hickory ” rockers with
which we make our modern verandas comfortable
nowadays, and the hammock swung in shady
places, wherein one may lie and take his ease, and

forget everything but the fact that it is some-
189

ARBORS AND OTHER

times a pleasant thing to be lazy—frankly, un-
blushingly lazy. It is a healthy indication in
our American life when so many persons go in
for getting all the comfort they can from out-
doors in summer. Every home whose grounds
are large enough to accommodate them ought to
have benches here and there, made for comfort,
rather than looks, garden-seats, summer-houses
—all suggestive of rest and relaxation. In this
chapter I propose to briefly describe a few such
home-made features, hoping that the man or boy
who has the “knack” of using tools to advan-
tage, actuated by a desire to make home-environ-
ments pleasant, may be led to copy some of them.

Let me say, right here, that the work de-
manded in the construction of rustic features
about the home is just the kind of work I would
encourage boys to undertake. It will be found
so enjoyable that it will seem more like play than
labor. There is the pleasure of planning it—the
sense of responsibility and importance which
comes to the lad who sets out to do something
“all by himself,” and the delightful conscious-
ness that what is done may result in making
home more home-like, and add to the comfort
and pleasure of those whose love and companion-

ship go to make home the best place on earth.
190

SUMMER HOUSE

GARDEN FEATURES

In constructing summer-houses, bridges, and
other rustic work, there should be a careful plan
made before the work is begun. Never work
“by guess.” Go at the undertaking precisely
as the mechanic sets about the construction of a
house. Draw a diagram of what the structure
is to be. A rough diagram will answer quite as
well as any, provided it covers all particulars.

Figure out just how much material the plan
calls for. Get this on the ground before anything
else is done. The material required will be poles
of different sizes and lengths, large and substan-
tial nails, a few planks for floors and benches—
possibly tables—and shingles for covering such
structures as need roofing in, unless bark is used
for this purpose. Of course bark gives more of
a “rustic” look to a roof, but it is not an easy
matter to obtain a good quality of it, and shingles,
stained a mossy-green or dark brown, will har-
monize charmingly with the rest of the building,
and furnish a much more substantial roof than it
is possible to secure with even the best kind of
bark.

If possible, use cedar poles in preference to
any other, for several reasons: First of all, they
are more ornamental, because of their bark, which

is more permanent than that of any other wood.
: 191

ARBORS AND OTHER

They are light, and easy to handle, and take a
nail as readily as pine. And then—their aromatic
odor makes it a constant delight to work among
them to those who like sweet, fresh, wild-woody
smells. But all kinds of poles can be substituted
for cedar if that is not obtainable. The kind
of wood used in the construction of rustic work is
not a matter of prime importance, though it may
be, and is, largely a matter of taste. But when
we cannot do as we would like to we must do the
best we can.

Provide yourself with a good saw, a hammer,
a square, and a mitre-box. These will be all the
tools you will be likely to need. Use spikes to
fasten the larger timbers together, and smaller
nails for the braces and ornamental work of the
design. Speaking of ornamental work reminds
me to say that the more crooked, gnarled, and
twisted limbs and branches you can secure, the
better will be the effect, as a general thing, for
formality must be avoided as far as possible.
We are not working according to a plan of
Nature’s but we are using Nature’s material,
and we must use it as it comes from Nature’s
hand in order to make it most effective.

Take pains in making joints. If everything is

cut to the proper length and angle, it will fit
192

GARDEN FEATURES

———————__=S=S==_—_L___=_=_=__==

together neatly, and only a neat job will be
satisfactory.

Let me advise the reader who concludes to try
his hand at the construction of rustic work to
confine his selection of design to something not
very elaborate. Leave that for wealthy people
who can afford to have whatever their taste in-
clines them to, without regard to cost, and who
give the work over to the skilled workman. I
am considering matters from the standpoint of
the home-maker, who believes we get more real
pleasure out of what we make with our own
hands than from that which we hire some one
to make for us,

In one of the illustrations accompanying this
chapter is shown a combination summer-house
and arbor that is very easily made, and that will
cost but little. The picture gives so clear an idea
of framework and general detail that a descrip-
tion does not seem necessary. ‘As a considerable
weight will have to be supported by the roof,
when vines have been trained over it, it will be
necessary to use stout poles for uprights, and to
run substantial braces from them to the cross-
poles overhead. The built-in seats on each side
add greatly to the comfort of the structure, and

invite us to “ little halts by the wayside,” in which
18 198

ARBORS AND OTHER

to “talk things over,” or to quiet hours with a
book that would lose half its charm if read in-
doors, as a companion. The original of this pic-
ture is built over a path that is sometimes used
as a driveway, and is known as “the outdoor
parlor ” by the family on whose grounds it stands.
You will find some member of the family there
on every pleasant day, throughout the entire
season, for it is fitted out with hammocks and
swinging seats, and a table large enough to serve
as tea-table, on occasion, with a cover that lifts
and discloses a snug box inside in which books
and magazines can be left without fear of injury
in case of shower or damp weather. Tea served
in such surroundings takes on a flavor that it
never has indoors. ‘The general design of this
summer-house, as will readily be seen by the illus-
tration, is simplicity itself, and can very easily
be copied by the amateur workman.

It often happens that there are ravines or
small depressions on the home-grounds over
which a rustic bridge could be thrown with pleas-
ing effect, from the ornamental standpoint, and
prove a great convenience from the standpoint of
practicality. If there is a brook there, all the
better, but few of us, however, are fortunate

enough to be owners of grounds possessing so
194

NOILSADONS VWIONUdd V

GARDEN FEATURES

charming a feature, and our bridges must be
more ornamental in themselves than would be
necessary if there was water to add its attraction
to the spot.

One of the most delightful summer-houses I
have ever seen was largely the result of an
accident. An old tree standing near a path
was broken down in a storm, some years
ago, and a portion of its trunk was made
use of as a support for one side of the roof. On
the opposite side, rustic arches were used. The
roof was shingled, and stained a dark green, thus
bringing it into color-harmony with its surround-
ings. Over the roof a Wistaria was trained, and
this has grown to such size that but few of the
shingles are to be seen through its branches.
About this spot the home-life of the family
centres from April to late October. ‘“ We would
miss it more than any part of the dwelling,” its
owner and builder said to me, when I asked per-
mission to photograph it. I could readily under-
stand the regard of the family for so beautiful
a place, which, I have no doubt, cost less than
one of the great flower-beds that we see on the
grounds of wealthy people, and see without ad-
miring, so formal and artificial are they, and so
suggestive of professional work duplicated in

195

ARBORS AND OTHER

other gardens until the very monotony of them
becomes an offence to the eye of the man or
woman who believes in individuality and
originality.

Rustic fences between lots are great improve-
ments on the ordinary boundary fence, especially
if vines are trained over them. They need not be
elaborate in design to be attractive. If made of
poles from which the bark has been taken, they
should be stained a dark green or brown to bring
them into harmony with their surroundings.

Screen-frames of rustic work, as a support for
vines, to hide unsightly outbuildings, are far pref-
erable to the usual one of wood with wire netting
stretched over it. They will cost no more than
one of lattice, and will be vastly more pleasing,
in every respect.

Gateways can be made exceedingly pleasing
by setting posts at each side of the gate, and
fashioning an arch to connect them, at the top.
Train a vine, like Ampelopsis, over the upper
part of the framework, and you make even the
simplest gateway attractive.

A garden-seat, with a canopy of vines to shade
it, may not be any more comfortable, as a seat,
than any wooden bench, but the touch of beauty
and grace imparted by the vine that roofs it

196

GARDEN FEATURES

makes it far more enjoyable than an expensive
seat without the vine would be to the person who
has a taste for pleasing and attractive things,
simply because it pleases the eye by its outlines,
thus appealing to the sense of the beautiful.
Beauty is cheap, when looked at from the right
standpoint, which is never one of dollars and
cents. It is just these little things about a place
that do so much to make it home-like, as you will
readily see if, when you find a place that pleases
you, you take the trouble to analyze the secret
of its attractiveness.

The pergola has not been much in evidence
among us until of late. A rapidly increasing
taste for the attractive features of old-world, out-
door life in sunny countries where much of the
time is spent outside the dwelling, and the intro-
duction of the “ Italian garden ” idea, have given
it a popularity in America that makes it a rival
of the arbor or summer-house, and bids fair to
make it a thing of permanence among us.

The question is frequently asked by those who
have read about pergolas, but have never seen
one, as to wherein they differ from the ordinary
arbor. The difference is more in location, ma-
terial, and manner of construction than anything

else. They are generally built of timber that can
197

ARBORS AND OTHER

be given a coating of paint, with more or less
ornamental pillars or supports and rafters, and
are constructed along definite architectural lines.
They are, in fact, ornamental structures over
which vines are to be trained loosely with a view
to tempering the sunshine rather than excluding
it. The framework of the arbor, as a general
thing, is considered secondary to the effect pro-
duced by it when the vines we plant about it are
developed. But, unlike the Americanized per-
gola, the arbor is almost always located in a re-
tired or inconspicuous part of the home-grounds,
and is seldom found connected with the dwelling.
To get the benefit of the arbor, or the summer-
house we evolve from it, we must go to it, while
the pergola, as adapted by most of us, brings
the attractive features of out-door life to the
house, thus combining out- and in-door life more
intimately than heretofore. One of the illustra-
tions accompanying this chapter shows a very
simple pergola framework—one that can be built
cheaply, and by any man or boy who is at all
“handy with tools,” and can be used as a plan
to work from by anyone who desires to attach a
modification of the pergola proper to the dwell-
ing, for the purpose of furnishing shade to por-
tions of it not provided with verandas. It will
198

A SIMPLE PERGOLA FRAMEWORK

GARDEN FEATURES

require the exercise of but little imagination to
enable one to see what a charming feature of the
home such a structure will be when vines have
been trained over it. There are many homes
that would be wonderfully improved by the addi-
tion of something of this kind, with very little
trouble and expense. It is to be hoped that many
a housewife can prevail on the “‘ men-folks ” to
interest themselves on pergola-building on a
small scale, as indicated in the illustration, for
practical as well as ornamental reasons. Any-
thing that will take the occupants of the dwelling
out of doors is to be encouraged. Especially
would the women of the household enjoy a vine-
shaded addition of this kind, during the intervals
of leisure that come during the day, and the head
of the family would find it an ideal place in
which to smoke his evening pipe. In several re-
spects it can be made much more satisfactory
than a veranda. It can be made larger—roomier,
and there will be more of an out-door atmosphere
about it because of its airiness, and the play of
light and shade through the vines that clamber
overhead. Pergolas of elaborate design need not
be described here, as they properly belong to
homes not made attractive by the individual
efforts of the home owner. They are better
199

ARBORS AND OTHER

adapted to the grounds of wealthy people, who
are not obliged to consider expense, and who are
not actively interested in the development of the
home by themselves.

What vines would I advise for use about
arbors, summer-houses, and pergolas?

The Wild Grape, though not much used, is one
of our best native vines. It has the merit of rapid
growth, entire hardiness, luxuriant foliage and
delightful habit, and when in bloom it has a fra-
grance that is as exquisite as it is indescribable—
one of those vague, elusive, and yet powerful
odors so characteristic of spring flowers. You
will smell it—the air will be full of it—and yet
it will puzzle you to locate it. The wind will
blow from you and it will be gone. Then a
breeze will blow your way, and the air will sud-
denly be overpoweringly sweet with the scent
shaken free from blossoms so small as to be
hardly noticeable unless one makes a careful
search for them. Then, too, the fruit is not only
attractive to the eye in fall, but pleasant to the
taste of those who delight in the flavor of wild
things, among whom we must class the robins,
who will linger about the vine until the last berry
is gone.

Another most excellent vine for covering these

200

GARDENERS TOOL-HOUSE

GARDEN FEATURES

structures is our native Ampelopsis, better
known as American Ivy, or Virginia Creeper.
This vine is of exceedingly rapid growth, and will
accomplish more in one season than most other
vines do in two or three years. Its foliage is
beautiful at all times, but especially so in late
autumn when it takes on a brilliance that makes
it a rival of the flower. In fact, every leaf of it
seems all at once to become a flower, glowing
with scarlet and maroon of varying shades, with
here and there a touch of bronze to afford con-
trast and heighten the intensity of the other
colors. This vine is perhaps the best of all vines
for use on rustic structures, because it takes hold
of rough poles and posts with stout little tendrils
or sucker-like discs which ask for no assistance
from us in the way of support.

Another most charming vine is Clematis
paniculata. 'This is a variety of the Clematis
family of comparatively recent introduction,
quite unlike the large-flowering class. It has
white flowers, small individually, but produced
in such enormous quantities that the upper por-
tions of the vine seem to be covered with foam, or
a light fall of snow. They will entirely hide
the foliage with their dainty, airy grace, and you
will declare, when you first see the plant in full

201

ARBORS AND OTHER

bloom, that it is the most beautiful thing you ever
saw in the way of a vine. And not the least of its
merits is its habit of flowering at a time when
most vines have passed into the sere-and-yellow-
leaf period. September and October see it in its
prime. Its foliage, of dark, rich, glossy green,
furnishes a most pleasing background against
which its countless panicles of white bloom stand
out with most striking and delightful effect. I
have no knowledge of a more floriferous vine,
and I know of no more beautiful one. As a
covering for the pergola attached to the house it
is unrivalled.

In the southern belt of our northern states,
where the Wistaria is hardy enough to withstand
the winter, no more satisfactory flowering vine
can be chosen for a pergola covering. Its habit
of growth and flowering seems perfectly in har-
mony with the primary idea of the pergola. It
will furnish all the shade that is needed without
shutting out the sunshine entirely, and its pen-
dant clusters of lavender-blue flowers are never
more pleasing than when seen hanging between
the cross-bars of the pergola.

If the person who builds a summer-house or
a pergola is impatient for results it will be well
to make use of annual vines for covering it the

202

GARDEN FEATURES

—— —
Te

first season, though something of a more per-
manent nature should always be planned for.
One of our best annuals, so far as rapidity of
growth is concerned, is the Wild Cucumber, of
which mention was made in the preceding chap-
ter. Because of its rapid development, the use-
fulness of the plant for immediate effects will be
readily understood. But it is valuable only as a
substitute for something more substantial and
should not be depended on after the first season.
It lacks the dignity and strength of a permanent
vine.
‘The Morning Glory will be found very
effective for a first-season covering. This vine
is prodigal in its production of flowers. Every
sunny day, throughout the season, it will be cov-
ered with blossoms, so many in number that they
make a veritable “ glory ” of the forenoon hours.
Another excellent annual is the Japan Hop.
This will perhaps afford better satisfaction than
the Wild Cucumber or the Morning Glory, be-
cause its foliage bears some resemblance to that
of the hardy vines of which I have spoken. In
other words, it has more substance and dignity,
and therefore seems more in harmony with the
structure over which it is trained. Its leaves have

a variegation of creamy white on a dark green
208

ARBORS, ETC.

——s

ground. This makes it as ornamental as if it
were a flowering plant.

Every home ought to have its “ playhouse”
for children. If fitted with screens to keep out
mosquitoes, the younger members of the family,
especially the girls, will literally “live in it ” for
six months of the year. I would suggest fitting
it with canvas curtains to shut out wind and rain.
I would also advise making it of good size, for the
children will take delight in entertaining visitors
in it, and a tiny structure is not convenient for
the entertainment of “ company.” Such a build-
ing can be made as ornamental as any arbor or
pergola at slight cost, when vines are used to hide
the shortcomings of its material and construction,
Be sure it will be appreciated by the little folks,
and quite likely some of the “ children of a larger
growth” will dispute its occupancy with them,
at times, if there is no other building of its kind
about the place.

CARPET-BEDDING

ARPET-BEDDING is not
the most artistic phase of gar-
dening, by any means, but it
has a great attraction for
many persons who admire
masses of harmonious and
contrasting colors more than

the individual beauty of a flower. ‘Therefore a

chapter on this subject will no doubt be gladly

welcomed by those who have seen the striking
effects secured by the use of plants having orna-
mental or richly colored foliage, in our large
public parks, and on the grounds of the wealthy-

Let me say, just here, that the person who
attempts what, for want of a better name, might
be called pictorial gardening, is wise if he selects

a rather simple pattern, especially at the outset

of his career in this phase of garden-work. Intri-

cate and elaborate designs call for more skill in
their successful working out than the amateur is
likely to be master of, and they demand a larger
amount of time and labor than the average ama-

teur florist will be likely to expend upon them,
205

CARPET-BEDDING

And the fact should never be lost sight of that
failure to give all the care needed brings about
most discouraging results, This being the case,
select a design in which the effect aimed at can
be secured by broad masses of color, depending
almost wholly on color-contrast for pleasing re-
sults. Bear in mind that this “school” of pic-
torial art belongs to the “ impressionistic ” rather
than the “ pre-Raphaelite,” about which we hear
so much nowadays, and leave the fine work to the
professional gardener, or wait until you feel quite
sure of your ability to attempt it with a reason-
ably good show of success.

Some persons are under the impression that
flowering plants can be used to good effect in
carpet-bedding. This is not the case, however.
In order to bring out a pattern or design fully
and clearly, it is absolutely necessary that we
make use of plants which are capable of giving a
solid color-effect. This we obtain from foliage,
but very few flowering plants are prolific enough
of bloom to give the desired result. The effect
-will be thin and spotty, so never depend on them.
Quite often they can be used in combination with
plants having ornamental foliage in such a man-
ner as to secure pleasing results, but they always

play a secondary part in this phase of gardening.
206

CARPET-BEDDING

The best plants to use in carpet-bedding are
the following:

Coleus, in various shades of red, maroon, and
scarlet, light and dark yellow, green and white,
and varieties in which colors and shades of color
are picturesquely blended.

Achyranthes, low-growing plants in mixtures
of red, pink, yellow and green.

Alternatheras, similar to Achyranthes in habit,
but with red as a predominating color. Both are
excellent for working out the finer details of a
design.

‘Pyrethrum—*“ Golden Feather ”—with feath-
ery foliage of a tawny yellow.

Centaurea gymnocarpa,—“‘ Dusty Miller,’—
with finely-cut foliage of a cool gray.

Geranium Madame Salleroi—with pale green
and white foliage. This is a most excellent plant
for use in carpet-bedding because of its close,
compact habit of growth, and its very symmetri-
cal shape which is retained throughout the entire
season without shearing or pruning.

It must be borne in mind by the amateur florist
that success in carpet-bedding depends nearly as
much on the care given as on the material used.
In order to bring out a design sharply, it is neces-

sary to go over the bed at least twice a week and
207

CARPET-BEDDING

— — —
— = —

cut away all branches that show a tendency to
straggle across the boundary line of the various
colors. Run your pruning shears along this line
and ruthlessly cut away everything that is not
where it belongs. If this is not done, your “ pat-
tern” will soon become. blurred and indistinct.
If any intermingling of colors “from across the
line ” is allowed, all sharpness of outline will be
destroyed.

The plants must be clipped frequently to keep
them dwarf and compact. Make it a point to
keep the larger-growing kinds, such as Coleus,
Pyrethrum and Centaurea, under six inches in
height rather than over it. Alternatheras and
Achyranthes will need very little shearing, as to
top, because of their habit of low growth.

In setting these plants in the bed, be governed
by the habit of each plant. Achyranthes and
Alternatheras, being the smallest, should be put
about four inches apart. Give the Coleus about
six inches of lee-way, also the Centaurea. Allow
eight inches for Madame Salleroi Geranium and
Pyrethrum. These will soon meet in the row and
form a solid line or mass of foliage.

So many persons have asked for designs for
carpet-bedding, that I will accompany this chap-

ter with several original with myself which have
208

CARPET-BEDDING

proved very satisfactory. Some of them may
seem rather complicated, but when one gets down
to the business of laying them out, the seeming
complications will vanish.

In laying out all but the star-shaped and cir-
cular beds, it is well to depend upon a square as
the basis to work from. Decide on the size of
bed you propose to have, and then stake out a

No. 1.

square as shown by the dotted lines in design
No. 1, and work inside this square in filling in
the details. If this is done, the work will not be
a difficult one.

Design No. 1 will be found easy to make and
admits of many pleasing combinations and modi-
fications. Fach gardener who sees fit to adopt
any of these designs should study out a color-

scheme of his own. Knowing the colors of the
4 209

CARPET-BEDDING

material he has to work with it will not be diffi-
cult to arrange these colors to suit individual
taste. I think this will be more satisfactory than
to give any arbitrary arrangement of colors, for
half the pleasure of gardening consists in orig-
inating things of this kind, rather than copying
what some one else has originated, or of following

<a

No. 2.

instructions given by others. This does not apply
so much to designs for beds as it does to the
colors we make use of in them.

In the designs accompanying this chapter it
will be seen that simple plans are made capable
of producing more elaborate effects by making
use of the dotted lines. Indeed, one can make
these designs quite intricate by dividing the dif-

210

CARPET-BEDDING

ferent spaces as outlined in No. 2. A plain
centre with a plain point, as shown in a, shows
the bed in its very simplest form. In g, c, and d,
we see these points with three different arrange-
ments suggested, and the dotted line in the cen-

No. 3.

tral portion indicates a change that can be made
there that will add considerably to the effective-
ness of the design. A little study of other de-
signs will, I think, make them so plain that they
can be worked out with but little trouble.

I would suggest that before deciding on any
a11

CARPET-BEDDING

color-combinations, a rough diagram be made of
whatever bed you select and that this be colored
to correspond with the material you have to work
with. Seeing these colors side by side on paper
will give you a better idea of the general effect
that will result from any of your proposed com-

No. 4.

binations than you can get in any other way, and
to test them in this manner may prevent you
from making some serious mistakes,

It will be necessary to go over the beds every
day or two and remove all dead or dying leaves.
Neatness is an item of the greatest importance in
this phase of gardening, or any other, for that

matter.
212

CARPET-BEDDING

Large plants can be used in the centre of any
of these designs, if one cares to do so, with very
good effect. For this purpose we have few
plants that will give greater satisfaction than the
Dahlia. Scarlet Salvia would be very effective if
yellow Coleus were used about it, but it would
not please if surrounded with red Coleus, as the

red of the plant and the red of the flower would
not harmonize. A Canna of rich, dark green
would make a fine centre plant for a bed in which
red Coleus served as a background. One of the
dark copper-colored varieties would show to fine
effect if surrounded with either yellow Pyreth-

rum or gray Centaurea.
a3

CARPET-BEDDING

—

Ageratum, with its delicate lavender-blue
flowers, can be made extremely attractive in
combination with yellow Coleus. A pink Gera-

No. 6.

nium surrounded with gray Centaurea would be
delightful in the harmony that would result from
a combination of these colors.

No. 7. No. 8.

Nos. 7 and 8 illustrate the simplest possible
form of bed. No. 7 is designed for plants to be

set in rows. In a bed of this kind flowering
214

CARPET-BEDDING

plants can be used.more effectively than in any
of the others. Pink, white, and pale yellow Phlox
would be very pretty in such a combination. No.
8 would be quite effective if each of the five sec-
tions were of a different color of Coleus. Or the
whole star might be of a solid color, with a bor-
der of contrasting color. Red Coleus with
Madame Salleroi Geranium as a border would
look well. So would yellow Coleus edged with
Centaurea,

FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE
PLANTS FOR EDGING BEDS
AND WALKS

Edo not lay as much stress
on edging beds and walks
with flowering plants as
formerly, but the practice
isa most pleasing one, and
ought not to be neglected.
It is one of the phases of

gardening that has been allowed to fall into dis-

use, to a considerable extent, but there are al-
ready signs that show it is coming back to its old
popularity, along with the old-fashioned flowers
that are now more in favor than ever before.

This is as it should be.

A bed without a pretty border or edging
always seems incomplete to me. It is as if the
owner of it ran short of material before it was
finished. The bit of lace or ribbon that is to add
the last touch of grace and beauty to the gown
is lacking.

Especially is a border of flowering plants
satisfactory if kinds are selected which bloom
216

PLANTS FOR EDGING

a —=
— ==

—
—

throughout the greater part of the season. The
plants we make use of in the centre of the bed
are not always attractive before they come into
bloom, neither are they that after they have
passed their prime, but a pretty edging of flowers
draws attention from their shortcomings, and
always pleases,

One of our best flowering plants for edging
purposes is Candytuft. It comes into bloom
early in the season, and blooms in great profusion
until the coming of frost. Keep it from develop-
ing seed and it will literally cover itself with
bloom. I would advise going over it twice a week
and clipping off every cluster of faded blossoms.
This answers two purposes—that of preventing
the formation of seed, and of removing what
would be a disfigurement to the plant if it were
allowed to remain.

There are two varieties of Candytuft in culti-
vation—one white, the other a dull red. The
white variety is the one most persons will select,
as it harmonizes with all other plants. But the
red sort is very pleasing when used with har-
monious colors. I last year saw a bed of Nastur-
tium bordered with it, and the effect was de-
lightful. Its dull color blended well with the

richer, stronger tones of the Nasturtium flowers,
217

PLANTS FOR EDGING

and gave them an emphasis that was suggestive
of the effect of dull, rich colors used in old rugs
in heightening and bringing out, by contrast, the
brighter colors.

In using Candytuft for edging, set the plants
about a foot apart. I would advise two rows of
them, placing the plants in such a manner that
they alternate in the rows. Do not attempt to
train them. Let them do that for themselves.
One of their most attractive features is their lack
of formality when allowed to grow to suit them-
selves. Very pleasing results are secured by
using: the white and red varieties together, the
colors alternating. If the centre of the bed is
filled with “Golden Feather” Pyrethrum and
these two Candytufts are used as an edging, the
effect will be very fine as the dull red admirably
supplements the greenish-yellow color of the
Pyrethrum, while the white relieves what, with-
out it, would be too sombre a color-scheme.

Sweet Alyssum is excellent for edging pur-
poses. Its general effect is quite similar to that
of the white Candytuft, but it has greater deli-
cacy of both bloom and foliage, and the addi-
tional merit of a delightful fragrance.

‘Ageratum is lovely for edging beds of pink
Geraniums, its soft lavender tones being in per-

fect harmony with their color. It is equally satis-
i ane

BEDS AND WALKS

factory when used with pale rose Phlox Drum-
mondi, or the soft yellow shades of that flower.
Combine the three colors in a bed and you will
have something unusually dainty and delightful.
One of the prettiest beds I saw last summer was
filled with Sweet Alyssum, and edged with
Ageratum. If there was any unfavorable criti-
cism to be made, it was that a touch of some
brighter, stronger color was needed to relieve its
white and lavender. A free-flowering rose-col-
ored Geranium in its centre, or a pink Verbena,
would have added much to the general effect, I
fancy. As it was, it was suggestive of old blue-
and-white Delft, and the collector of that ware
would have gone into raptures over it.

For a permanent edging, for beds, paths, and
the border, Bellis perennis, whose popular name
is English Daisy, is one of the best of all plants.
It is entirely hardy. It blooms early in the
season. It is wonderfully generous in its pro-
duction of flowers. These are small, and very
double, some pink, some almost white, produced
on short stems which keep them close to the
ground and prevent them from straggling. Its
thick, bright green foliage furnishes a charming
background against which the blossoms display
themselves effectively. It is a plant that does

well everywhere, and is always on good terms
219

PLANTS FOR EDGING

with everything else in the garden, as will be
seen by the illustration that shows it in full bloom,
along with Pansies and Hyacinths. Because of
its compact, non-straggling habit it is especially
useful for bordering paths and the border, per-
mitting the use of the lawn-mower or the rake
with perfect freedom. Plants should be set about
eight inches apart. If you have but few plants
of it and desire more, pull the old plants apart
in spring and make a new one out of each bit
that comes away with a piece of root attached.
By fall the young plants will have grown to-
gether and formed a solid mass of foliage, with a
great many “crowns” from which flowers will
be produced the following season. Florists can
generally furnish seedling plants in spring, from
which immediate effects can be secured by close
planting.

One of the best—if not the best—plants for
all-around use in edging is Madame Salleroi
Geranium. It is quite unlike any other Gera-
nium of which I have any knowledge, in general
habit. It forms a bushy, compact plant, and
bears a solid mass of foliage. No attention what-
ever is required in the way of pruning. The plant
trains itself. The ordinary flowering Geranium
must be pinched back, and pruned constantly to

prevent it from becoming “leggy,” but there is
290

A BORDER OF CREEPING PHLOX

BEDS AND WALKS

no trouble of this kind with Madame Salleroi.
Its branches, of which there will often be fifty or
more from a plant, are all sent up from the crown
of the plant, and seldom grow to be more than
five or six inches in length. Each branch may
have a score of leaves, borne on stems about four
inches long. These leaves are smaller than those
of any other Geranium. Their ground color is
a pale green, and every leaf is bordered with
creamy white. This combination of color makes
the plant as attractive as a flowering one. It is
a favorite plant for house-culture in winter, and
those who have a specimen that has been carried
over can pull it apart in May and plant each bit
of cutting in the ground where it is to grow dur-
ing summer, feeling sure that not one slip out of
twenty will fail to grow if its base is inserted
about an inch deep in soil which should be pinched
firmly about it to hold it in place while roots are
forming. Set the cuttings about ten inches apart.
‘By midsummer the young plants will touch each
other, and from that time on to the coming of
frost your border will be a thing of beauty, and
one of the delightful things about it will be—it
will require no attention whatever from you.
Never a branch will have to be shortened to keep
it within bounds. No support will be needed.

The plants will take care of themselves. I have
921

PLANTS FOR EDGING

never had a plant that is easier to grow. It har-
monizes with everything. Seen against the green
of the lawn it is charming. All things considered,
it is an ideal plant for edging. In combination
with scarlet and yellow Coleus it is exceedingly
effective, because of its strong color-contrast.

Most amateur gardeners are familiar with the
various merits of Coleus, Alternatheras, Achy-
ranthes, “Golden Feather” Pyrethrum, and
Centaurea maritima, better known as “ Dusty
Miller” because of its gray foliage. These are
all good, when properly cared for, when used for
edging beds and borders. Especially so when
used with Cannas, Caladiums, and other plants
of striking foliage, where their rich colors take
the place of flowers.

Phlox decussata, commonly known as “ Moss
Pink ” because of its fine foliage and bright pink
flowers, is a most excellent plant for the hardy
border, because it stands our winters quite as
well as the hardiest perennials. Early in spring
it will cover itself with charming blossoms that
are as cheerful to look at as the song of the robin
or the blue bird is to hear. It is a lovable little
thing, and has but one rival among early-flower-
ing plants for edging, and that rival is the
English Daisy.

222

PLANNING THE GARDEN

HE flower garden not being
one of the necessities of
life, in the usual sense of
the term, people are likely
to consider the making of it
of so little importance that
it is hardly worth while to

give the matter much consideration. Conse-

quently they simply dig up a bed here and there,
sow whatever seed they happen to have, and call
the thing done.

A haphazard garden of that sort is never satis-
factory. In order to make even the smallest
garden what it ought to be it should be carefully
planned, and every detail of it well thought out
before the opening of the season.

To insure thoroughness in this part of the
work I would advise the garden-maker to make
a diagram of it as he thinks he would like to
have it. Sketch it out, no matter how roughly.
When you have a map of it on paper you will
be able to get a much clearer idea of it than you

can obtain from any merely mental plan.
223

PLANNING

——

After locating your beds, decide what kind of
flower you will have in each one. But before
you locate your plants study your catalogue
carefully, and make yourself familiar with the
heights and habits of them. Quite likely this will
lead to a revision of your mental diagram, for
you may find that you have proposed to put low-
growing kinds in the rear of tall-growing sorts,
and tall-growing kinds where they would seri-
ously interfere with the general effect.

Bear in mind that there is always a proper
place for each plant you make use of—if you can
find it. The making of a working diagram and
the study of the leading characteristics of the
plants you propose to use will help you to avoid
mistakes that might seriously interfere with the
effectiveness of your garden.

Do not attempt more than you are sure of your
ability to carry through well. Many persons
allow the enthusiasm of the spring season to get
the better of their judgment, and lead them into
undertaking to do so much that after a little the
magnitude of the work discourages them, and,
as a natural result, the garden suffers seriously,
and often proves a sad failure. Bear in mind
that a few really good plants will give a hundred-

fold more pleasure than a great many mediocre
204

MMER

IN St

IN WINTER

THE GARDEN

ones. Therefore concentrate your work, and aim
at quality rather than quantity. Never set out
to have so large a garden that the amount of
labor you have to expend on it will be likely to
preve a burden rather than a pleasurable recrea-
tion.

Do not attempt anything elaborate in a small
garden. Leave fancy beds and striking designs
to those who have a sufficient amount of room
at their disposal to make them effective.

I would advise keeping each kind of plant by
itself, as far as possible. Beds in which all colors
are mixed promiscuously are seldom pleasing be-
cause there are sure to be colors there that are
out of harmony with others, and without color-
harmony a garden of most expensive plants must
prove a failure to the person of good taste.

I would not, therefore, advise the purchase of
“mixed ” seed, in which most persons invest,
because it is cheaper than that in which each color
is by itself. This may cost more, but it is well
worth the additional expense. Take Phlox
Drummondi as an illustration of the idea gov-
erning this advice: If mixed seed is used, you
will have red, pink, mauve, scarlet, crimson,
violet, and lilac in the same bed,—a jumble of

colors which can never be made to harmonize
15 295

PLANNING

and the effect of which will be very unpleasant.
On the other hand, by planning your bed in ad-
vance of making it, with color-harmony in mind,
you can so select and arrange your colors that
they will not only harmonize, but afford a con-
trast that will heighten the general effect greatly.
For instance, you can use rose-color, white and
pale yellow varieties together, or scarlet and
white, or carmine and pale yellow, and these com-
binations will be in excellent harmony, and give
entire satisfaction. (The mauves, lilacs, and
violets, to be satisfactory, should only be used in
combination with white varieties. I am speaking
of the Phlox, but the rule which applies to this
plant applies with equal force to all plants in
which similar colors are to be found.

If there are unsightly places anywhere about
the grounds aim to hide them under a growth
of pretty vines. An old fence can be made into
a thing of beauty when covered with Morning
Glories or Nasturtiums. By the use of a trellis
covered with Sweet Peas, or a hedge of Zinnia,
or of Cosmos, we can shut off the view of objec-
tionable features which may exist in connection
with the garden. Outhouses can be completely
hidden in midsummer by planting groups of Ri-
cinus about them, and filling in with Hollyhocks,

and Delphinium, and Golden Glow, and other
226

THE GARDEN

tall-growing plants. In planning your garden,
study how to bring about these desirable results.

Keep in mind the fact that if you go about
garden-making in a haphazard way, and happen
to get plants where they do not belong, as you are
quite likely to do unless you know them well,
you have made a mistake which cannot be recti-
fied until another season. This being the case,
guard against such mistakes by making sure
that you know just what plant to use to produce
the effect you have in mind.

Plan to have a selection of plants that will give
flowers throughout the entire season. The ma-
jority of annuals bloom most profusely in June
and July, but the prevention of seed-develop-
ment will force them into bloom during the later
months.

Plan to have a few plants in reserve, to take
the places of those which may fail. Something
is liable to happen to a plant, at any time, and
unless you have material at hand with which to
make good the loss, there will be a bare spot in
your beds that will be an eye-sore all the rest
of the season.

Plan to have the lowest growers near the path,
or under the sitting-room windows where you
can look down upon them.

Plan to have a back-yard garden in which to
207

PLANNING THE GARDEN

give the plants not needed in the main garden
a place. There will always be seedlings to thin
out, and these ought not to be thrown away. If
planted in some out-of-the-way place they will
furnish you with plenty of material for cutting,
and this will leave the plants in the main garden
undisturbed.

THE BACK-YARD GARDEN

GREAT deal is written
about the flower-garden
that fronts the street, or is
so located that it will attract
the passer-by, but it is sel-
dom that we see any men-
tion made of the garden in

the back-yard. One would naturally get the idea

that the only garden worth having is the one that
will attract the attention of the stranger, or the
casual visitor.

I believe in a flower-garden that will give more
pleasure to the home and its inmates than to any-
one else, and where can such a garden be located
with better promise of pleasurable results than
by the kitchen door, where the busy housewife
can blend the brightness of it with her daily work,
and breathe in the sweetness of it while about
her indoor tasks? It doesn’t matter if its exist-
ence is unknown to the stranger within the gates,
or that the passer-by does not get a glimpse of it.
It works out its mission and ministry of cheer

and brightness and beauty in a way that makes
229

THE BACK-YARD GARDEN

it the one garden most worth having. Ask the
busy woman who catches fleeting glimpses of the
beauty in it as she goes about her work, and she
will tell you that it is an inspiration to her, and
that the sight of it rests her when most weary,
and that its nearness makes it a companion that
seems to enter into all her moods,

Last year I came across such a garden, and it
pleased me so much that I have often looked back
to it with a delightful memory of its homeliness,
its utter lack of formality, and wished that it
were possible for me to let others see it as I saw
it, for, were they to do so, I feel quite sure every
home would have one like it.

“T never take any pains with it,” the woman
of the home said to me, half apologetically. “That
is, I don’t try to make it like other folks’ gardens.
I don’t believe I’d enjoy it so much if I were to.
You see, it hasn’t anything of the company air
about it. It’s more like the neighbor that ‘ just
drops in’ to sit a little while, and chat about
neighborhood happenings that we don’t dare to
speak about when some one comes to make a
formal call. I love flowers so much that it
seemed as if I must have a few where I could
see them, while I. was busy in the kitchen. You

know, a woman who does her own housework
230

THE BACK-YARD GARDEN

can’t stop every time she’d like to to run out to
the front-yard garden. So I began to plant
hardy things here, and I’ve kept on ever since,
till I’ve quite a collection, as you see. Just odds
and ends of the plants that seem most like folks,
you know. It doesn’t amount to much as a gar-
den, I suppose most folks would think, but you’ve
no idea of the pleasure I get out of it. Some-
times when I get all fagged out over housework
I go out and pull weeds in it, and hoe a little,
and train up the vines, and the first I know ’m
ready to go back to work, with the tired feeling
all gone. And do you know—the plants seem to
enjoy it as much as I do? They seem to grow
better here than I could ever coax them to do
in the front yard. But that’s probably because
they get the slops from the kitchen, and the soap-
suds, every wash-day. It doesn’t seem as if I
worked among them at all. It’s just play. The
fresh air of outdoors does me more good, I’m
sure, than all the doctors’ tonics. And I’m not
the only one in the family that enjoys them.
The children take a good deal of pride in
‘mother’s garden,’ and my husband took time,
one day, in the busiest part of the season, to
put up that frame by the door, to train Morning

Glories over.”
981

THE BACK-YARD GARDEN

In this ideal home-garden were old-fashioned
Madonna Lilies, such as I had not seen for years,
and Bouncing Bets, ragged and saucy as ever,
and Southernwood, that gave off spicy odors
every time one touched it, and Aquilegias in blue
and white and red, Life Everlasting, and Moss
Pink, and that most delicious of all old-fashioned
garden flowers, the Spice Pink, with its fringed
petals marked with maroon, as if some wayside
artist had touched each one with a brush dipped
in that color for the simple mischief of the thing,
and Hollyhocks, Rockets—almost all the old
“ stand-bys.” There was not one “ new ” flower

‘there. If it had been, it would have seemed out
of place. The Morning Glories were just get-
ting well under way, and were only half-way up
the door-frame, but I could see, with my mind’s
eye, what a beautiful awning they would make
a little later. I could imagine them peering into
the kitchen, like saucy, fun-loving children, and
laughing good-morning to the woman who
“loved flowers so well she couldn’t get along
without a few.”

You see, she was successful with them because
she loved them. Because of that, the labor she
bestowed upon them was play, not work. They

were friends of hers, and friendship never be-
932

THE BACK-YARD GARDEN

grudges anything that gives proof of its exist-
ence in a practical way. And the flowers, grate-
ful for the friendship which manifested itself in
so many helpful ways, repaid her generously in
beauty and brightness and cheer by making
themselves a part of her daily life.

By all means, have a back-yard garden,

THE WILD GARDEN

A PLEA FOR OUR NATIVE PLANTS

—
—

Y persons, I find, are
under the impression that
we have few, if any, native
flowering plants and shrubs
that are worthy a place
in the home-garden. They
have been accustomed to
consider them as “ wild things,” and “ weeds,”
forgetting or overlooking the fact that all plants
are wild things and weeds somewhere. So un-
familiar are they with many of our commonest
plants that they fail to recognize them when they
meet them outside their native haunts. Some
years ago I transplanted a Solidago,—better
known as a “ Golden Rod,”—from a fence-cor-
ner of the pasture, and gave it a place in the
home-garden. There it grew luxuriantly, and
soon became a great plant that sent up scores of
stalks each season as high as a man’s head, every
one of them crowned with a plume of brilliant
yellow flowers. The effect was simply magnifi-
cent.

One day an old neighbor came along, and
284

THE WILD GARDEN

stopped to chat with me as I worked among my
plants.

“ That’s a beauty,” he said as he leaned across
the fence near the Golden Rod. “I don’t know’s
I ever saw anything like it before. I reckon,
now, you paid a good deal of money for that
plant.”

“How much do you think it cost me?” I
asked.

“ Oh, I don’t know,” he answered, looking at
the plant admiringly, and then at some of foreign
origin, near-by. He knew something about the
value of these, as he had one of them growing in
his garden. He seemed to be making a mental
calculation, based on the relative beauty of the
plants, and presently he said:

“T ain’t much of a judge of such things, but
I wouldn’t wonder if you paid as much as three—
mebby four—an’ like’s not five dollars for it.”

“The plant cost me nothing but the labor of
bringing it from the pasture,” I answered.
“ Don’t you know what it is? There’s any quan-
tity of it back of your barn, I notice.”

“You don’t mean to say that’s yaller-weed,”
exclaimed the old gentleman, with a disgusted
look on his face. “ I wouldn’t have it in my yard.
We've got weeds enough ’thout settin’ ’em out.”

235

THE WILD GARDEN

He went away with a look on his face that made
me think he felt as if he had been imposed on.

While it is true, in many instances, that “ fa-
miliarity breeds contempt,” it is equally true that
familiarity without prejudice would open our
eyes to the fact that beauty exists all about us—
in lane, and field, and roadside, and forest. We
are not aware of the prevalence of it until we go
in search of it. When we go out with “ the see-
ing eye,” we find it everywhere. Nothing is so
plentiful or so cheap as beauty to the lover of
the beautiful. It may be had for the taking.
We have fallen into the habit of looking to
foreign lands for plants with which to beautify
our gardens, thus neglecting and ignoring the
beauty at our own doors. ‘A shrub with a long
name and a good big price attached will win our
admiration, while a native plant, vastly more
desirable, will be wholly overlooked. It ought
not to be so. “ Home first, the world afterward ”
is the motto of many patriotic men and women,
and it ought to be the motto of the lover of the
beautiful in plant-life when he is seeking for
something with which to ornament the home-
grounds.

Many persons have, however, become greatly
interested in our native plants, and it is apparent

936 .

THE WILD GARDEN

en ——
————— —=

that the interest of the masses in whatever is
beautiful is steadily increasing. The people are
being educated to a keener appreciation of
beauty than ever before. It is encouraging to
know that a demand has sprung up for shrubs
and plants of American origin—a demand so
large, already, that many nurserymen advertise
collections of native plants, some of them quite
extensive. Appreciation of true beauty is put-
ting a value into things which have heretofore had
no idea of value connected with them.

The dominant idea I had in mind, when this
chapter was planned, was that of enlisting the
boys and girls in the work of making a collection
of native plants. I would have them make what
might properly be called a wild garden. But I
would not confine the undertaking to the boys
and girls. I would interest the man or woman
who has a home to make beautiful in the material
that is to be found on every hand, waiting to be
utilized. Such a garden can be made of great
educational value, and, at the same time, quite
as ornamental as the garden that contains noth-
ing but foreign plants. It can be made to assist
in the development of patriotic as well as esthetic
ideas. It can be made to stimulate a healthy

rivalry among the boys and girls, as well as the
937

THE WILD GARDEN

“children of a larger growth,” as to whose col-
lection shall be most complete. In the care and
culture of these plants a skill and knowledge may
be attained that will be of much benefit to them
in the future, and possibly to the world. Who
knows? We may have among us a young Lin-
nus, or a Humboldt, and the making of a wild
garden may tend to the discovery and develop-
ment of a talent which coming years may make
us proud to do honor to the possessor of.

I would suggest the formation of a wild-
garden society in each country village and neigh-
borhood. Organize expeditions into the sur-
rounding country in search of shrubs and plants.
Such excursions can be made as delightful as a
picnic. Take with you a good-sized basket, to
contain the plants you gather, and some kind of
a tool to dig the plants with—and your dinner.
Lift the plants very carefully, with enough earth
about them to keep their roots moist. On no
account should their roots be allowed to get dry.
If this happens you might as well throw them
away, at once, as no amount of after-attention
will undo the damage that is done by neglect to
carry out this advice.

The search for plants should begin early in the

season if they are to be transplanted in spring,
ee e

:

|

(

|

:

|
=

PORCH BOX

THE WILD GARDEN
for it would not be safe to attempt their removal
after they have begun to make active growth.
April is a good time to look up your plants, and
May a good time to bring them home. Later
on, when you come across a plant that seems a
desirable addition to your collection, mark the
place where it grows, and transplant to the home
grounas in fall, after its leaves have ripened.
In transplanting shrubs and herbaceous plants,
study carefully the conditions under which they
have grown, and aim to make the conditions
under which they are to grow as similar to the
original ones as possible. Of course you will be
able to do this only approximately, in most in-
stances, but come as near it as you can, for much
of your success depends on this. You can give
your plants a soil similar to that in which they
have been growing, and generally, by a little
planning, you can arrange for exposure to sun-
shine, or a shaded location, according to the
nature of the plants you make use of. Very often
it is possible to so locate moisture-loving plants
that they can have the damp soil so many of
them need, by planting them in low places or
depressions where water stands for some time
after a rain, while those which prefer a dry soil
can be given places on knolls and stony places
939

THE WILD GARDEN

from which water runs off readily. In order to
do this part of the work well it will be necessary
to study your plants carefully before removing
them from their home in the wood or field. Aim
to make the change as easy as possible for them.
This can only be done by imitating natural con-
ditions—in other words, the conditions under
which they have been growing up to the time
when you undertake their domestication.

Not knowing, at the start, the kind of. plants
our collection will contain, as it grows, we can
have no definite plan to work to. Consequently
there will be a certain unavoidable lack of system
in the arrangement of the wild garden. But this
may possibly be one of the chief charms of it,
after a little. A garden formed on this plan—
or lack of plan—will seem to have evolved itself,
and the utter absence of all formality will make
it a more cunning imitation of Nature’s methods
than it would ever be if we began it with the
intention of imitating her.

Among our early-flowering native plants
worthy a place in any garden will be found the
Dogwoods, the Plums, the Crab-apple, and the
wild Rose. Smaller plants, like the Trillium,
the Houstonia, the Bloodroot, the Claytonia and
the Hepatica, will work in charmingly in the

foreground. Between them can be used many
240

THE WILD GARDEN

varieties of Fern, if the location is shaded some-
what, as it should be to suit the flowering plants
I have named.

Among the summer-flowering sorts we have
Aquilegia, Daisy, Coreopsis, Cranesbill, Eupa-
torium, Meadow Sweet, Lily, Helianthus,
Enothera, Rudbeckia, Vervain, Veronia, Lobelia
and many others that grow here and there, but
are not found in all parts of the country, as those
I have named are, for the most part.

Among the shrubs are Elder, Spirea, Clethra,
Sumach, Dogwood, and others equally as desir-
able.

Among the late bloomers are the Solidagos
(Golden Rod), Asters, Helenium, Ironweed,
and others which continue to bloom until cold
weather is at hand.

Among the desirable vines are the Ampelopsis,
which vies with the Sumach in richness of color
in fall, the Bittersweet, with its profusion of
fruitage as brilliant as flowers, and the Clematis,
beautiful in bloom, and quite as attractive later,
when its seeds take on their peculiar feathery
appendages that make the plant look as if a gray
plume had been torn apart and scattered over
the plant, portions of it adhering to every branch
in the most airy, graceful manner imaginable.

Though I have named only our most familiar

16 241

THE WILD GARDEN

ns

wild plants, it will be observed that the list is
quite a long one. No one need be afraid of not
being able to obtain plants enough to stock a
good-sized garden. The trouble will be, in most
instances, to find room for all the plants you
would like to have represented in your collection,
after you become thoroughly interested in the
delightful work of making it. The attraction of
it will increase as the collection increases, and
as you discover what a wealth of material for
garden-making we have at our very doors, with-
out ever having dreamed of its existence, you will
be tempted to exceed the limitations of the place
because of the embarrassment of riches which
makes a decision between desirable plants diffi-

cult. You can have but few of them, but you
would like all,

THE WINTER GARDEN

— ——s —]
—————— — — — —f

OST persons who are the

owners of gardens seem to
be under the impression that
we must close the summer
volume of Nature’s book at
the end of the season, and
that it must remain closed
until the spring of another year invites us to a
re-perusal of its attractive pages. In other words,
that we are not expected to derive much pleasure
from the garden for six months of the year.

There is no good reason why the home-grounds
should not be attractive the year round if we
plant for winter as well as summer effect.

True, we cannot have flowers in winter, but
we can secure color-effects with but little trouble
that will make good, to a considerable extent,
the lack of floral color. Without these the win-
ter landscape is cold, though beautiful, and to
most persons it will seem dreary and monotonous
in its chill whiteness. But to those who have “ the
seeing eye,” there are always elements of won-

derful beauty in it, and there is ample material at
248

THE WINTER GARDEN

=— = —_———
— = —

hand with which to give it the touches of bright-
ness that can make it almost as attractive as it is
in June.

If the reader will carefully study the two illus-
trations accompanying this chapter, he will have
to admit that the winter garden has many attrac-
tive features that the summer garden cannot
boast of. These illustrations are summer and
winter views of the same spot, taken from one
of our public parks. The summer view shows a
wealth of foliage and bloom, and is one of Na-
ture’s beauty-spots that we never tire of. But
the winter view has in it a suggestion of breadth
and distance that adds wonderfully to the charm
of the scene, brought out as it is by the naked
branches against the sky, and glimpses of de-
lightful vistas farther on, which are entirely
hidden by the foliage that interferes with the
outlook in the summer picture. Note how the
evergreens stand out sharply against the back-
ground, and how clearly every shrub—every
branch—is outlined by the snow. It is one of
Nature’s etchings. Whatever color there is in
the landscape is heightened and emphasized by
strong, vivid contrast. There are little touches
of exquisite beauty in this picture that cannot be
found in the other.

Q44

THE WINTER GARDEN

Most of us plant a few evergreens about our
homes. Sometimes we are fortunate enough to
locate them where they will prove effective.
Oftener we put them where they have no chance
to display their charms to good effect. They do
not belong near the house—least of all in the
“front yard.” iThey must be admired at a dis-
tance which will soften their coarseness of habit.
You must be far enough away from them to be
able to take in their charms of form and color
at a glance, to observe the graceful sweep of their
branches against the snow, and to fully bring out
the strength and richness of color, none of which
things can be done at close range. Looked at
from a proper and respectful distance, every
good specimen of evergreen will afford a great
deal of pleasure. ‘But it might be made to afford
a great deal more if we were to set about it in the
right way. Why not make our evergreens serve
as backgrounds against which to bring out colors
that rival, to some extent, the flowers of summer?

Have you never taken a tramp along the edge
of the woodland in winter, and come suddenly
upon a group of Alders? What brightness
seemed to radiate from their spikes of scarlet
berries! The effect is something like that of a

flame, so intense is it. It seems to radiate
45

THE WINTER GARDEN

through the winter air with a thrill of positive
warmth. So strong an impression do they make
upon the eye that you see them long after you
have passed them. They photograph themselves
there. Why should we not transplant this bit of
woodland glory to the garden, and heighten the
effect of it by giving it an evergreen as a back-
ground? Its scarlet fire, seen against the dark
greenery of Spruce or Arbor Vite, would make
the winter garden fairly glow with color.

I have seen the red-branched Willow planted
near an evergreen, and the contrast of color
brought out every branch so keenly that it seemed
chiselled from coral. The effect was exquisite.

Train Celastrus scandens, better known as
Bittersweet, where its pendant clusters of red
and orange can show against evergreens, and you
produce an effect that can be equalled by few
flowers.

(The Berberry is an exceedingly useful shrub
with which to work up vivid color-effects in win-
ter. It shows attractively among other shrubs,
is charming when seen against a drift of snow,
but is never quite so effective as when its rich-
ness of coloring is emphasized by contrast by the
sombre green of a Spruce or Balsam.

Our native Cranberry—Viburnum opulus—is
246

THE WINTER GARDEN

one of our best berry-bearing shrubs. It holds its
crimson fruit well in winter. Planted among—
not against—evergreens, it is wonderfully effect-
ive because of its tall and stately habit.

Bayberry (Myrica cerifera) is another showy-
fruited shrub. Its grayish-white berries are
thickly studded along its brown branches, and
are retained through the winter. If this is
planted side by side with the Alder, the effect
will be found very pleasing.

The Snowberry (Symphoricarpus racemosus)
has been cultivated for nearly a hundred years
in our gardens, and probably stands at the head
of the list of white-fruited shrubs. If this is
planted in front of evergreens the purity of its
color is brought out charmingly. Group it with
the red-barked Willow, the Alder, or the Ber-
berry, and you secure a contrast that makes the
effect strikingly delightful—a symphony in
green, scarlet, and white. If to this combina-
tion you add the blue of a winter sky or the glow
of a winter sunset, who can say there is not plenty
of color in a winter landscape?

The value of the Mountain Ash in winter deco-
ration is just beginning to be understood. If it
retained its fruit throughout the entire season it
would be one of our most valuable plants, but

Qa

THE WINTER GARDEN

the birds claim its crimson fruit as their especial
property, and it is generally without a berry by
Christmas in localities where robins and other
berry-eating birds linger late in the season. Up
to that time it is exceedingly attractive, especially
if it is planted where it can have the benefit of
strong contrast to bring out the rich color of its
great clusters. Because of its tall and stately
habit it will be found very effective when planted
between evergreens, with other bright-colored
shrubs in the foreground.

There are many shrubs whose berries are blue,
and purple, and black. While these are not as
showy as those of scarlet and white, they are very
attractive, and can be made extremely useful in
the winter garden. They should not be neg-
lected, because they widen the range of color to
such an extent that the charge of monotony of
tone in the winter landscape is ineffective.

‘The Ramanas Rose (R. lucida) has very
brilliant clusters of crimson fruit which retains
its beauty long after the holidays. This shrub is
really more attractive in winter than in summer.

It will be understood, from what I said at the
beginning of this chapter, that I put high value on
the decorative effect of leafless shrubs. Their

branches, whether traced against a background
218

THE WINTER GARDEN

of sky or snow, make an embroidery that has
about it a charm that summer cannot equal in
delicacy. A Bittersweet, clambering over bush or
tree, and displaying its many clusters of red and
orange against a background of leafless branches,
with the intense blue of winter sky showing
through them, makes a picture that is brilliant in
the extreme, when you consider the relative
values of the colors composing it. Then you
will discover that the charm is not confined to the
color of the fruit, but to the delicate tracery of
branch and twig, as well.

WINDOW AND VERANDA
BOXES

OMEBODY had a bright
SC thought when the window-
TH box came into existence.

The only wonder is that per-
sons who were obliged to
M forego the pleasure of a gar-
ar YI} den did not think it out long
ago. It is one of the “ institutions ” that have
come to stay. We see more of them every year.
Those who have gardens—or could have them, if
they wanted them—seem to have a decided pref-
erence for the window-box substitute.

There is a good reason for this: The window-
box brings the garden to one’s room, while the
garden obliges one to make it a visit in order
to enjoy the beauty in it. With the window-box
the upstair room can be made as pleasant as those
below, and the woman in the kitchen can enjoy
the companionship of flowers while she busies
herself with her housewifely duties, if she does
not care to make herself a back-yard garden such

as I have spoken of in a preceding chapter. And
280

VERANDA BOXES

the humble home that has no room for flowers
outside its walls, the homes in the congested city,
away up, up, up above the soil in which a few
flowers might possibly be coaxed to grow, if man
thought less of gain and more of beauty, can be
made more like what home ought to be, with but.
little trouble and expense, by giving these boxes
a chance to do their good work at their windows.
‘Blessed be the window-box!

Many persons, however, fail to attain success
in the cultivation of plants in boxes at the win-
dow-sill, and their failures have given rise to the
impression in the minds of those who have
watched their undertaking, that success with them
is very problematical. “It looks easy,” said a
woman to me last season, “when you see some-
body else’s box just running over with vines, but
when you come to make the attempt for
yourself you wake up to the fact that there’s a
knack to it that most of us fail to discover. I’ve
tried my best, for the last three years, to have
such boxes as my neighbor has, and I haven’t
found out what’s wrong yet. I invest in the
plants that are told me to be best adapted to
window-box culture. I plant them, and then I
coax them and coddle them. I fertilize them and

I shower them, but they stubbornly refuse to do
251

WINDOW AND

well. They start off all right, but by the time
they ought to be doing great things they begin
to look rusty, and it isn’t long before they look so
sickly and forlorn that I feel like putting them
out of their misery by dumping them in the ash-
heap.”

Now this woman’s experience is the experience
of many other women. She thinks,—and they
think,—that they lack the “gift” that enables
some persons to grow flowers successfully while
others fail utterly with them. They haven’t “ the
knack.” Now, as I have said elsewhere in this
book, there’s no such thing as “a knack” in
flower-growing. Instead of “a knack” it’s a
“ know-how.” Ninety-nine times out of a hundred
failure with window-boxes is due to just one
thing: They let their plants die simply because
they do not give them water enough.

Liberal watering is the “ know-how” that a
person must have to make a success of growing
good plants in window and veranda boxes. Sim-
ply that, and nothing more.

The average woman isn’t given to “ studying
into things” as much as the average man is, so
she often fails to get at the whys and wherefores
of many happenings. She sees the plants in her

boxes dying slowly, but she fails to take note of
252

VERANDA BOXES

the fact that evaporation from these boxes is very
rapid. It could not be otherwise because of
their exposure to wind and air on all sides. She
applies water in quantities only sufficient to wet
the surface of the soil, and because that looks
moist she concludes there must be sufficient moist-
ure below and lets it go at that. Examination
would show her that an inch below the surface the
soil in the box is very, very dry,—so dry, in fact,
that no roots could find sustenance in it. This
explains why plants “start off” well. While
young and small their roots are close to the sur-
face, and as long as they remain in that condi-
tion they grow well enough, but as soon as they
attempt to send their roots down—as all plants
do, after the earlier stages of growth—they find
no moisture, and in a short time they die.

If, instead of applying a basinful of water, a
pailful were used, daily, all the soil in a box of
ordinary size would be made moist all through,
and so long as a supply of water is kept up there
is no reason why just as fine plants cannot be
grown in boxes as in pots, or the garden beds.
There is no danger of overwatering, for all sur-
plus water will run off through the holes in the
box, provided for drainage. Therefore make it a

tule to apply to your window-box, every day,
958

WINDOW AND

throughout the season, enough water to thor-
oughly saturate all the soil in it. If this is done,
you will come to the conclusion that at last you
have discovered the “ knack ” upon which success
depends.

I am often asked what kind of boxes I con-
sider best. To which I reply: “The kind that
comes handiest.” It isn’t the box that your
plants grow in that counts for much. It’s the
care you give. Of course the soil ought to be
fairly rich, though a soil of ordinary fertility can
be made to answer all purposes if a good dose of
plant food is given occasionally. Care should be
taken, however, not to make too frequent use of
it, as it is an easy matter to force a growth that
will be weak because of its rapidity, and from
which there may be a disastrous reaction after a
little. The result to aim at is a healthy growth,
and when you secure that, be satisfied with it.

The idea prevails to a considerable extent that
one must make use of plants specially adapted to
window-box culture. Now the fact is—almost
any kind of plant can be grown in these boxes,
there being no “ special adaption ” to this pur-
‘pose, except as to profusion of bloom and habit
of growth. Drooping plants are desirable to
trail over the sides of the box, and add that touch

of grace which is characteristic of all vines.
254

PORCH BOX

VERANDA BOXES

Plants that bloom freely throughout the season
should be chosen in preference to shy and short-
season bloomers. Geraniums, Petunias, Ver-
benas, Fuchsias, Salvias, Heliotropes, Paris
Daisies—all these are excellent.

If one cares to depend on foliage for color,
most pleasing results can be secured by making
use of the plants of which mention has been
made in the chapter on Carpet-Bedding.

Vines that will give satisfaction are Glechoma,
green, with yellow variegation—Vinca Harris-
ont, also green and yellow, Moneywort, German
Ivy, Tradescantia, Thunbergia, and Othonna. A
combination of plants with richly-colored foliage
is especially desirable for boxes on the porch or
veranda, where showiness seems to be considered
as more important than delicacy of tint or refine-
ment of quality. In these boxes larger plants can
be used than one would care to give place to at
the window. Here is where Cannas and Cala-
diums will be found very effective.

Ferns, like the Boston and Pierson varieties,
are excellent for not too sunny window-boxes be-
cause of their graceful drooping and spreading
habit. They combine well with pink-and-white
Fuchsias, rose-colored Ivy Geraniums, and the
white Paris Daisy. Petunias—the single sorts
only—are very satisfactory, because they bloom

955

WINDOW BOXES

so freely and constantly, and have enough of the
droop in them to make them as useful in cover-
ing the sides of the box as they are in spreading
over its surface. If pink and white varieties are
used to the exclusion of the mottled and varie-
gated kinds the effect will be found vastly more
pleasing than where there is an indiscriminate
jumbling of colors.

A foot in width, a foot in depth, and the length
of the window frame to which it is to be attached
is a good size for the average window-box.
Great care must be taken to see that it is securely
fastened to the frame, and that it is given a
strong support, for the amount of earth it will
contain will be of considerable weight when well
saturated with water.

Veranda boxes, in which larger plants are to
be used, should be considerably deeper and wider
than the ordinary window-box. Any box of the
size desired that is substantial enough to hold a
sufficient amount of soil will answer all pur-
poses, therefore it is not necessary to invest in
expensive goods unless you have so much money
that economy is no object to you. If your plants
grow as they ought to no one can tell, by mid-
summer, whether your box cost ten dollars or ten
cents. If it is of wood, give it a coat of some
neutral-colored paint before you fill it.

256

SPRING WORK IN THE
GARDEN

OT much actual work can be
done in the garden, at the
north, before the middle of
April. But a good deal can
be done toward getting ready
for active work as soon as
conditions become favorable.

Right here let me say that
it is a most excellent plan to do all that can be
done to advantage as early in the season as pos-
sible, for the reason that when the weather be-
comes warm, work will come with a rush, and in
the hurry of it quite likely some of it will be
slighted. ‘Always aim to keep ahead of your
work.

I believe, as I have several times said, in plan-
ning things. Your garden may be small—so
small that you do not think it worth while to give
much consideration to it in the way of making
plans for it—but it will pay you to think over
the arrangement of it in advance. “Making
garden” doesn’t consist simply in spading up a

7 257

SPRING WORK

bed, and putting seed into the ground. Thought
should be given to the location and arrangement
of each kind of flower you make use of. The
haphazard location of any plant is.likely to do it
injustice, and the whole garden suffers in conse-
quence.

Make a mental picture of your garden as you
would like to have it, and then take an inventory
of the material you have to work with, and see
how near you can come to the garden you have
in mind. ‘Try to find the proper place for every
flower. Study up on habit, and color, and season
of bloom, and you will not be likely to get things
into the wrong place as you will be almost sure
to do if you do not give considerable thought to
this matter. There should be orderliness and
system in the garden as well as in the house, and
this can only come by knowing your plants, and
so locating them that each one of them will have
the opportunity of making the most of itself.

Beds can be spaded as soon as the frost is
out of the ground, as advised in the chapter on
The Garden of Annuals, but, as was said in that
chapter, it is not advisable to do more with them
at that time. If the ground is worked over when
wet, the only result is that you get a good many

small clods to take the place of large ones. Noth-
258

IN THE GARDEN

ing is gained by being in a hurry with this part
of the work. Pulverization of the soil can only
be accomplished successfully after it has parted
with the excessive moisture consequent on melt-
ing snows and spring rains. Therefore let it
lie as thrown up by the spade until it is in a con-
dition to crumble readily under the application of
hoe or rake.

Shrubs can be reset as soon as frost is out of
the ground. Remove all defective roots when
this is done. Make the soil in which you plant
them quite rich, and follow the instruction given
in the chapter on Shrubs as carefully as possible,
in the work of resetting.

If any changes are to be made in the border,
plan for them now. Decide just what you want
to do. Don’t allow any guesswork about it. If
you “ think out ” these things the home grounds
will improve year by year, and you will have a
place to be proud of. But the planless system
which so many follow never gives satisfactory
results. It gives one the impression of something
that started for somewhere but never arrived at
its destination.

Old border plants which have received little
or no attention for years will be greatly bene-

fited by transplanting at this season. Cut away
: 959 .

SPRING WORK

all the older roots, and make use of none that
are not strong and healthy. Give them a rich
soil. Most of them will have renewed themselves
by midsummer.

If you do not care to take up the old plants,
cut about them with a sharp knife, and remove
as many of the old roots as possible. This is
often almost as effective as transplanting, and it
does not involve as much labor.

The lawn should be given attention at this
season. Rake off all unsightly refuse that may
have collected on it during winter. Give it an
application of some good fertilizer. It is quite
important that this should be done early in the
season, as grass begins to grow almost as soon as
frost is out of the ground, and the sward should
have something to feed on as soon as it is ready
for work.

Go over all the shrubs and see if any need
attention in the way of pruning. But don’t
touch them with the pruning knife unless they
really need it. Cut out old wood and weak
branches, if there are any, and thin, if too thick,
but leave the bush to train itself. It knows more
about this than you do!

Get racks and trellises ready for summer use.

‘These are generally made on the spur of the
260

IN THE GARDEN

moment, out of whatever material comes handiest
at the time they are needed. Such hurriedly
constructed things are pretty sure to prove eye-
sores. The gardener who takes pride in his work
and his garden will not be satisfied with make-
shifts, but will see that whatever is needed, along
this line, is well made, and looks so well that he
has no reason to be ashamed of it. It should be
painted a dark green or some other neutral color.

Rake the mulch away from the plants that
were given protection in fall as soon as the
weather gets warm enough to start them to grow-
ing. Or it can be dug into the soil about them
to act as a fertilizer. Get it out of sight, for it
always gives the garden an untidy effect if left
about the plants.

Go over the border plants and uproot all grass
that has secured a foothold there. A space of a
foot should be left about all shrubs and peren-
nials in which nothing should be allowed to grow.

If any plants seem out of place, take them up
and put them where they belong. If you cannot
find a place where they seem to fit in, discard
them. The garden will be better off without
them, no matter how desirable they are, than with

them if their presence creates color-discord.
261

SPRING WORK

Peonies can be moved to advantage now. If
you cut about the old clump and lift a good deal
of earth with it, and do not interfere with its
roots, no harm will be done. But if you muti-
late its roots, or expose them, you need not ex-
pect any flowers from the plant for a season or
two.

Get stakes ready for the Dahlias. These
should be painted some unobtrusive color. If
this is done, and they are taken proper care of
in fall, they will last for years. This is true of
racks and trellises.

Provide yourself with a hoe, an iron-toothed
rake, a weeding-hook, a trowel for transplanting,
a wheel-barrow, a spade, and a watering-pot.
See that the latter is made from galvanized iron
if you want it to last. Tin pots will rust out in
a short time.

Take your watering-pot to the tinsmith and
have him fit it out with an extension spout—one
that can be slipped on to the end of the spout
that comes with the pot. Let this be at least two
feet in length. 'This will enable you to apply
water to the roots of plants standing well back
in the border, or across beds, and get it just where
it will do the most good, but a short-spouted

plant will not do this unless you take a good
262

IN THE GARDEN
es
many unnecessary steps in making the appli-
cation.

Be sure to send in your orders for seed and
plants early in the season. Have everything on
hand, ready for putting into the ground when
the proper time comes to do this.

SUMMER WORK IN THE
GARDEN

EF weeds are kept down
through the early part of
the season, there will not be
a great deal of weeding to
do in midsummer. Still, we
cannot afford to take it for
granted that they require no

attention, for they are most aggressive things,
and so persistent are they that they will take
advantage of every opportunity for perpetuating
themselves. Therefore be on the lookout for
them, and as soon as you discover one that has
thought to escape your notice by hiding behind
some flowering plant, uproot it. One weed will
furnish seed enough to fill the entire garden with
plants next year if let alone.

If the season happens to be very dry, some of
your plants—Dahlias, for instance,—will have
to be watered if you want them to amount to
anything. These must have moisture at their
roots in order to flower well.

Other plants may be able to get along with
264

WORK IN THE GARDEN

a mulch of grass-clippings from the lawn. Most
of our annuals will stand quite a drouth.

If one is connected with a system of water-
works it is an easy matter to tide a garden over
a drouth. But where there is nothing but the
pump to depend on for a supply of water, I
would not advise beginning artificial watering
except in rare cases, like that of the Dahlia. We
always find that so much work is required in
supplying our plants from the pump that after
a little we abandon the undertaking, and the re-
sult is that the plants we set out to be kind to are
left in a worse condition, when we give up our
spasmodic attention, than they would have been
in if we had not begun it.

It is well to use the hoe constantly if the season
is a dry one. Keep the surface of the soil open
that it may take in all the moisture possible. On
no account allow it to become crusted over.

Seed of perennials can be sown now to furnish
plants for flowering next season.

Look to the Dahlias, and make sure they are
properly staked.

Be on the lookout for black beetle on Aster
and Chrysanthemum. As soon as one is discov-
ered apply Nicoticide, and apply it thoroughly,
all over the plant. Promptness is demanded in

fighting this voracious pest.
265

SUMMER WORK
———_—_—OO OS
During the latter part of summer, when the
extreme hot weather that we have at the north
sets in, cut away nearly all the top of the Pansy-
plants. This will give the plants a chance to
rest during the season when they are not equal
to the task of flowering, because of the hot, dry
weather which is so trying to them. Along in
September, when the weather becomes cooler,
they will take a fresh start and give us fine
flowers all through the fall.

Look over the perennials and satisfy yourself
that there is color-harmony everywhere. If you
find a discord anywhere, mark the plant that
makes it for removal later on.

Be sure to keep all seed from developing on the
Sweet Peas. This you must do if you would
have a good crop of flowers during the fall
months.

If any plants seem too thick, sacrifice some of
them promptly. No plant can develop itself
satisfactorily if it is crowded.

Poor plants will find their way into all col-
lections. If you find one in yours, remove it
at once. There are so many good ones at our
disposal that we cannot afford to give place, even
for a season, to an inferior kind.

Let neatness prevail everywhere. Gather up
266

IN THE GARDEN

a

dead leaves and fallen flowers, cut away the
stalks of plants upon which no more flowers can
be expected, and keep the walks looking as if
you expected visitors at any time, and were de-
termined not to be caught in untidy garments.
While the good gardener can always find
something to do in the garden, he will not have
as much work on his hands at this season as at
any other, therefore it is the time in which he
can get the greatest amount of pleasure from
his flowers, and in proportion to his care of them

earlier in the season will be the pleasure they
afford now.

FALL WORK IN THE GARDEN

ECAUSE the growth of
grass on the lawn is not as
luxuriant and rapid in fall
as it is in midsummer, is no
reason why the lawn should
be neglected after summer is
over. It should be mowed
whenever the grass gets too tall to look well,

‘clear up to the end of the season. The neat and
attractive appearance of the home-grounds de-
pends more upon the lawn than anything else
about them. It is a good plan to fertilize it well
in fall, thus enabling the roots of the sward to
store up nutriment for the coming season. Fine
bonemeal is as good for this purpose as any-
thing I know of except barnyard manure, and
it is superior to that in one respect—it does not
contain the seeds of weeds.

Go over the garden before the end of the season
and gather up all plants that have completed
their work. If we neglect to give attention to
the beds now that the flowering-period is over,

a general appearance of untidiness will soon
268

WORK IN THE GARDEN

dominate everything. Much of the depressing
effect of late fall is due to this lack of attention.
The prompt removal of all unsightly objects will
keep the grounds looking clean after the season
has passed its prime, and we all know what the
Good Book’s estimate of cleanliness is.

Seedlings of such perennials as Hollyhock,
Delphinium, and other plants of similar char-
acter, ought to be transplanted to the places they
are to occupy next season by the last of Septem-
ber. If care is taken not to disturb their roots
when you lift them they will receive no check.

If you give your Hybrid Perpetual Roses a
good, sharp cutting-back early in September, and
manure the soil about them well, you may reason-
ably expect a few fine flowers from them later
on. And what is more delightful than a perfect
Rose gathered from your own garden just at the
edge of winter?

Perennials can be divided and reset, if neces-
sary, immediately after they have ripened off.
the growth of the present year. If this work is
done now, there will be just so much less to do
in spring.

Before the coming of cold weather all tools
used in gardening operations should be gathered

up and stored under cover. If any repairs are
269

FALL WORK IN

needed, make note of them, and see that the work
is done in winter, so that everything needed in
spring may be in readiness for use. It is a good
plan to give all wood-work a coat of paint at
the time it is stored away, and to go over the
metal part of every tool with a wash of vaseline
to prevent rust.

Have a general house-cleaning before winter
sets in. Cut away the stalks of the perennials.
Pull up all annuals. Rake up the leaves, and
add everything of this kind to the compost heap.
All garden refuse should find its way there, to be
transmuted by the alchemy of sun and rain, and
the disintegrating forces of nature into that most
valuable of soil constituents—humus. Let noth-
ing that has any value in it be wasted.

After hard frosts have killed the tops of Dah-
lias, Cannas, Caladiums and Gladioluses, their
roots should be dug, on some warm and sunny
day, and prepared for storage in the cellar or
closet. Spread them out in the sunshine, and
leave them there until the soil that was dug with
them is dry: enough to crumble away from them.
At night cover with something to keep out the
cold, and expose them to the curative effects of
the sun next day. It may be necessary to do this
several days in succession. The great amount of

270

THE GARDEN

moisture which they contain when first dug
should be given a chance to evaporate to a con-
siderable extent before it will be safe to put them
away for the winter. Cut off the old stalks close
to the root before storing.

While clearing the beds of dead plants and
leaves be on the lookout for insects of various
kinds. The cut-worm may still be in evidence,
and may be found among the rubbish which you
gather up. And if found, destroy it on the spot.
This precaution will go far toward safeguarding
plants in spring, many of which are annually
injured by the depredations of this pest.

When you are sure that cold weather is at
hand, cover the bulb-bed with coarse manure or
litter, hay, or straw, as advised in the chapter
on The Bulb Garden. And give your Roses the
protection advised in the chapter on The Rose.

Cover Pansies lightly with leaves or evergreen
branches. If you have mulch enough, apply
some to your hardy plants, and next spring note
the difference between them and the plants which
were not given any protection.

BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT

A CHAPTER OF AFTERTHOUGHTS WHICH THE
READER CANNOT AFFORD TO MISS

HINK things out for your-
self. Do not try to copy
anybody else’s garden, as
so many attempt to do.
Be original. What you
see on your neighbor’s home
grounds may suggest some-

thing similar for your own grounds, but

be content with the idea suggested. He
may not have a patent on his own working-
out of the idea—indeed, the idea may not have
been one of his originating—but the manner in
which he has expressed it is his own and you
should respect his right to it. Imitation of what
others have done, or are doing, is likely to spoil
everything. If the best you can do is to copy
your neighbor’s work servilely in all its details,
turn your attention to something else. If all
the flower-gardens in the neighborhood were
simply duplicates of each other in material and
arrangement, the uniformity of them would be
272

PLANTING TO HIDE FOUNDATION WALLS

POSTSCRIPT

so monotonous in effect that it would be a relief
to find a place that was without a garden.

* * * * *

Never imitate anything that you see on the
grounds of wealthy people with cheap and in-
ferior material. The result will be a sham that
will deceive no one, and you will soon tire of it,
and the sooner the better. Be honest. If you
have only cheap material to work with, be satis-
fied with unambitious undertakings. Let them
be in keeping with what you have to work with—
simple, unpretentious, and without any attempt
in the way of deception. The humblest home can
be made attractive by holding fast to the prin-
ciple of honesty in everything that is done about
it. It is not necessary to imitate in order to make
it attractive. Think out things for yourself, and
endeavor to do the best you can with the material
at hand, and under the conditions that prevail,
and be content with that. The result will afford
you vastly more satisfaction, even if it does not
measure up to what you would like, than you can
possibly realize by imitating another’s work.
There is a deal of pleasure in being able to say
about one’s home or garden, “ It may not be as
fine as my neighbor’s, but, such as it is, it is all

18 28

BY WAY OF
mine. I have put myself into it. It may be plain
and humble, but—there’s honesty in it.” And
that is a feature you have a right to be proud of.

* * * * *

Never make the mistake of neglecting good
old plants for the sake of something new, simply
because it 7s new. Old plants—plants that have
held their own against all newcomers—are the
ones to depend on. The fact that they have held
their own is sufficient proof of their merits. Had
they been inferior in any respect they would have
dropped from notice long ago, like the “ novel-
ties” that aspired to take their places. Old
plants are like old friends, old wine—all the bet-
ter because of their age. There’s something sub-
stantial about them. We do not tire of them.
We know what to expect of them, and they
never disappoint us.

* * * * *

Never make the mistake of thinking the shape
of a bed deserves more consideration than what
you put into the bed. It’s the flower that de-
serves attention,—not the bed it grows in. It
isn’t treating a flower with proper respect to
give it secondary place.

* + * # *
oth

POSTSCRIPT

Many an amateur gardener tries to have a
little of everything, and the result is that he has
nothirg worth speaking of, because quality has
been sacrificed to quantity. Grow only as many
flowers as you can grow well, and be wise in
selecting only such kinds as do best under the
conditions in which they must be grown. De-
pend upon kinds that have been tried and not
found wanting unless you have a fondness for
experimenting.

* * * * *

No really artistic results can be secured by the
use of seeds in which all colors are mixed. If
you desire harmonious effects, you will have to
purchase seed in which each color is by itself.
‘A. few varieties in which there is perfect color-
harmony will please you far more than a collec-
tion in which all the colors of the rainbow are
represented. Take the Sweet Pea as an illus-
tration of this idea: From a package of mixed
seed you will get a score of different colors or
shades, and many of these, though beautiful in
themselves, will produce positive discord when
grown side by side. The eye of the person who
has fine color-sense will be pained by the lack of

harmony. But confine your selection to the soft
275

BY WAY OF

pinks, the delicate lavenders, and the pure whites,
and the result will be something to delight the
artistic eye—restful, harmonious, and as pleasing
as a strain of exquisite poetry—in fact, a poem in
color. What is true of the Sweet Pea, in this
respect, is equally true of all plants which range
through a great variety of colors. Bear this in
mind when you select seeds for your garden of
annuals.
* * # * #

Don’t throw away any plants that are worth
growing. If you have no use for them some of
your neighbors will doubtless be glad to get
them. Give them to the poor children of your
neighborhood, and tell them how to care for them,
and you will not only be doing a kind deed but
you will be putting into the life that needs uplift-
ing and refining influences a means of help and
education that you little guess the power of for
good. For every plant is a teacher, and a
preacher of the gospel of beauty, and its mission
is to brighten and broaden every life that comes
under its influence. All that it asks is an oppor-
tunity to fulfill that mission.

* # # * *

Tf no one cares for the plants you have no use

for, give them a place in out-of-the-way nooks
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POSTSCRIPT

and corners—in the roadside, even, if there is
no other place for them. ‘A stock of this kind,
to draw upon in case any of your old plants fail
in winter, will save expense and trouble, and pre-
vent bare spots from detracting from the appear-
ance of the home grounds. It is always well to
have a few plants in reserve for just such emer-
gencies as this. Very frequently the odds-and-
ends corner of the garden is the most attractive
feature in it.

* * * * *

Many a place is all but spoiled because its
owner finds it difficult to confine his selection of
plants for it to the number it will conveniently
accommodate. There are so many desirable ones
to choose from that it is no easy matter to deter-
mine which you will have, because—you want
them all! But one must be governed by the con-
ditions that cannot be changed. Unfortunately
the home-lot is not elastic. Small grounds neces-
sitate small collections if we would avoid clutter-
ing up the place in a manner that makes it im-
possible to grow anything well. Shrubs must
have elbow-room in order to display their attrac-
tions to the best advantage. Keep this in mind,
and set out only as many as there will be room

att

BY WAY OF
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for when they have fully developed. It may
cost you a pang to discard an old favorite, but
often it has to be done out of regard for the
future welfare of the kinds you feel you must
have. If you overstock your garden, it will give
you many pangs to see how the plants in it
suffer from the effect of crowding. If you can-
not have all the good things, have the very best
of the list, and try to grow them so well that they
will make up in quality for the lack in quantity.
I know of a little garden in which but three plants
grow, but the owner of them gives them such care
that these three plants attract more attention
from passers-by than any other garden on that
street.

* * * * *

Be methodical in your garden-work. Keep
watch of everything, and when you see some-
thing that needs doing, do it. And do it well.
One secret of success in gardening is in doing
everything as if it was the one thing to be done.
Slight nothing.

* * * * *
For vines that do not grow thick enough to

hide everything with their foliage, a lattice frame-
278

POSTSCRIPT

work of lath, painted white, is the most satis-
factory support, because of the pleasing color-
contrast between it and the plants trained over
it. Both support and plant will be ornamental,
and one will admirably supplement the other.
The lattice will be an attractive feature of the
garden when the vine that grew over it is dead,
if it is kept neatly painted.

* * * * *

But for the rampant grower a coarse-meshed
wire netting is just as good, and considerably less
expensive, in the long run, as it will do duty for
many years, if taken care of at the end of the
season. Roll it up and put it under cover before
the fall rains set in,

* * * * *

The simple fact of newness is nothing in any
plant’s favor. Unless it has real merit, it will
not find purchasers after the first season. Bet-
ter wait until you know what a plant is before
investing in it. We have so many excellent
plants with whose good qualities we are familiar
that it is not necessary to run any risks of this
kind.

* * * * *
279

BY WAY OF

Many home-owners make the mistake of put-
ting down boardwalks about the dwelling and
yard. Such a walk is never attractive, and it has
not the merit of durability, for after a year or
two it will need repairs, and from that time on it
will be a constant source of expense. The varie-
gated appearance of a patched-up boardwalk will
seriously detract from the attractiveness of any
garden. It may cost more, at first, to put down
cement walks,—though I am inclined to doubt
this, at the present price of lumber—but such
walks are good for a lifetime, if properly con-
structed, therefore much cheaper in the end.
There can be no two opinions as to their superior
appearance. Their cool gray color brings them
into harmony with their surroundings. They are
never obtrusive. They are easily cleaned, both
summer and winter. And the home-maker can
put them in quite as well as the professional
worker in cement if he sets out to do so, though
he may be longer at the work.

* * * * *

But make sure about the location of your paths
before putting in cement walks. That is—be
quite sure that you know where you want them

to be. A boardwalk can be changed at any time
980

POSTSCRIPT

<a

with but little trouble if you get it in the wrong
place, but a cement walk, once down, is down for
all time, unless you are willing to spend a good
deal of hard labor in its removal.

* * * * *

Never do spasmodic work in the garden. The
unwise gardener neglects what needs doing until
so much has accumulated that he is forced to give
it attention, and then he hurries in his efforts to
dispose of it, and the consequence is that much
of it is likely to be so poorly done that plants
suffer nearly as much from his hasty operations
as they did from neglect. Do whatever needs
doing in a systematic way, and keep ahead of
your work. Never be driven by it.

* * * * *

It is one of the most satisfactory laws of
Nature that we can have only what we work for
Too many seem to forget this, and think that
because a flower hasn’t a market value, like corn
or wheat, it ought to grow without any atten-
tion on their part. Such persons do not under-
stand the real value of a flower, which is none
the less because it cannot be computed. on the
basis of a dollars-and-cents calculation.

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BY WAY OF

Man, wife, and all the children ought to work
together for whatever adds beauty to the home,
and nothing is more effective in this line than a
good flower-garden. I can remember when it
was considered an indication of weakness for
a man to admit that he was fond of flowers. I
look back with amusement to my own experience
in this respect. Because I loved flowers so well,
when I was a wee bit of a lad, that I attempted
to grow them, I was often laughed at for being
a “girl-boy.” “ He ought to have been a girl,”
one of my uncles used to say. “ You'll have to
learn him to do sewing and housework.” It
often stung me to anger to listen to these sarcastic
remarks, but I am glad that my love for flowers
was strong enough to keep me at work among
them, for I know that I am a better man to-day
than I would have been had I allowed myself to
be ridiculed out of my love for them. If the
children manifest a desire to have little gardens
of their own encourage them ‘to do so, and feel
sure that the cultivation of them will prove to be
a strong factor in the development of the child
mind.

* * * * *
Seedling Hollyhocks almost always look well

when winter comes, but in spring we find their
982

POSTSCRIPT

leaves decaying from the effect of too much
moisture, and this decay is likely to be communi-
cated to the crown of the plant, and that means
failure. Of late years I protect my plants by
inverting small boxes over them. The sides of
these boxes are bored full of holes to admit air,
which must be allowed to circulate freely about
the plant, or it will smother. I invert a box over
the plant after filling it with leaves, and draw
more leaves about the outside of it. This pre-
vents water from coming in contact with the soft,
sponge-like foliage, and the plant comes out in
spring almost as green as it was in fall.

* * * * *

Plants can be moved with comparative safety
any time during the summer if one is careful to
disturb their roots as little as possible. Take
them up with a large amount of soil adhering,
and handle so carefully that it will not break
apart. It is a good plan to apply enough water
before attempting to lift them to thoroughly
saturate all the soil containing the roots. This
will hold the earth together, and prevent ex-
posure of the roots, which is the main thing to
guard against.

* * * * *
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BY WAY OF

After putting the plant in place, apply water
liberally, and then mulch the soil about it with
grass-clippings or manure. Of course removal
at that season will check the growth of the plant
to a considerable extent, and probably end its
usefulness for the remainder of the season. Un-
less absolutely necessary, I would not attempt
the work at this time, for spring and fall are the
proper seasons for doing it.

* * * * *

In a letter recently received a lady asks this
question: “ Do you believe in flower-shows? If
you think they help the cause of flower-growing,
will you kindly tell me how to go to work to
organize such a society? ”

To the first question I reply: I do believe in
flower-shows and horticultural societies when
they are calculated to increase the love and ap-
preciation of flowers as flowers, rather than to
call attention to the skill of the florist in pro-
ducing freaks which are only attractive as curi-
osities. I sincerely hope that the day of Chrys-
anthemums a foot across and Roses as large
as small Cabbages is on the wane.

* * * * *
The thing to do in organizing a floral associa-

tion is—to paraphrase Horace Greeley’s famous
284

POSTSCRIPT

advice as to the resumption of specie payment—
to organize! In other words, to get right down
to business and give the proposed society a start
by bringing flower-loving people together, and
beginning to work without wasting time on un-
necessary details. If you make use of much
“red tape” you will kill the undertaking at the
outset. Simply form your society and appoint
your committees, and you will find that the
various matters which perplex you when looked
at in the whole will readily adjust themselves to
the conditions that arise as the society goes on
with its work. Put theories aside, and do some-
thing, and you will find very little difficulty in
making your society successful if you can secure
a dozen really interested persons as members.
I would be glad to know that such a society ex-
isted in every community.

* * * * *

TI would advise my readers never to have any-
thing to do with plant-peddlers. Of course it is
possible for the man who goes about the country
with plants for sale to be as honest as any other
man, but we see so few indications of the posses-
sion of honest principles by the majority of these

men that we have come to consider them all
985

BY WAY OF

unreliable, and, as a matter of protection, we
have to refuse to patronize any of them at the
risk of doing injustice to those who may be
strictly reliable. ‘They will sell you Roses that
have a different colored flower each month
throughout the season, blue Roses, Resurrection
Plants that come to life at a snap of the finger,
and are equally valuable for decorative purposes
and for keeping moths out of clothing, and nu-
merous other things rare, wonderful, and all
high priced, every one of which can be classed
among the humbugs. Patronize dealers in whom
you are justified in having confidence because
of a well-established reputation for fair dealing.

* * * * *

The Hollyhock is often attacked by what is
called “rust.” The leaves become brown, and
dry at the edges, and the entire plant has a look
much like that of a nail which has been for some
time in water, hence the popular name of the
disease. This “rust ” is really a fungoid trouble,
and unless it is promptly checked it will soon
spread to other plants. If it appears on several
plants at the same time, I would advise cutting
them, and burning every branch and stalk. If

but one plant is attacked, I would spray it with
986

POSTSCRIPT

Bordeaux Mixture, which can now be obtained in
paste form from most florists. This is the only
dependable remedy I know of for the fungus ills
that plants are heir to. Asparagus is often so
badly affected with it, of late years, that many
growers have been obliged to mow down their
plants and burn their tops in midsummer, in their
efforts to save their stock. Never leave any of
the cut-off portions of a plant on the ground,
thinking that cutting down is all that is neces-
sary. The fungus spores will survive the winter,
and be ready for work in spring. Burn every-
thing.
* * * * *

A house whose foundation walls are left fully
exposed always has an unfinished look. But if
we hide them by shrubs and flowering plants the
place takes on a look of completion, and the
effect is so pleasing that we wonder why any
house should be left with bare walls. The plants
about it seem to unite it with the grounds in such
a manner that it becomes a part of them. But
the house whose walls are without the grace of
“green things growing,” always suggest that
verse in the Good Book which tells of “ being in

the world, but not of it.”
987

BY WAY OF

I would always surround the dwelling with
shrubs and perennials, and use annuals and bulbs
between them and the paths that run around the
house.

* * * * *

On the north side of a dwelling large-growing
Ferns can be planted with fine effect. ‘These
should be gathered in spring, and a good deal of
native soil should be brought with them from the
woods. They will not amount to much the first
year, but they will afford you a great deal of
pleasure thereafter. Use in front of them such
shade-loving plants as Lily of the Valley and
Myosotis.

* * * * *

Nowadays “ tropical effects” are greatly ad-
mired. We have but few plants that adapt them-
selves to this phase of gardening. Canna, Cala-
dium, Ricinus, Coleus, “ Golden Feather” Py-
rethrum and the gray Centaurea cover pretty
nearly the entire list. But by varying the com-
binations that can be made with them the ama-
teur can produce many new and pleasing effects,
thus pias the monotony which results from

simply copying the beds that we see year after
988

POSTSCRIPT

year in the public parks, from whose likeness to
each other we get the impression that no other
combination can be made. Study out new
arrangements for yourself. Plant them, group
them, use them as backgrounds for flowering
plants, mass them in open spaces in the border.
Do not get the idea that they must always be
used by themselves. Cannas, because of the
great variety of color in their foliage, can be
made attractive when used alone, but the others
depend upon combination with other plants for
the contrast which brings out and emphasizes
their attractive features.

* * * * *

Speaking of new arrangements reminds me to
say that the amateur gardener ought always to
plan for original effects if he or she would get
out of gardening all the pleasure there is in it.
It may seem almost necessary for the beginner to
copy the ideas of others in the arrangement of the
garden, to a considerable extent, but he should
not get into the slavish habit of doing so. Haz-
litt says: “ Originality implies independence of
opinion. It consists in seeing for one’s self.”
That’s it, exactly. Study your plants. Find out

their possibilities. And then plan arrangements
19 289

BY WAY OF

of your own for next season. Have an opinion
of your own, and be independent enough to
attempt its carrying out. Don’t be afraid of
yourself. Originate! Originate! Originate!

* * * * *

When you invest your money in a fine plant
you do it for the pleasure of yourself and family.
When a neighbor comes along and admires it,
and asks you to divide it with her, don’t let your-
self be frightened into doing so from regard of
what she may say or think if you refuse. Tell
her where she can get a plant like it, but don’t
spoil your own plant for anybody.

I am well aware that advice of this kind may
seem selfish, but itis not. There’s no good reason
why my neighbor should not get his plants in the
same way I got mine. I buy with the idea of
beautifying my home with them, and this I can-
not do so long as I yield to everybody’s request
for a slip or a root.

I have in mind a woman who, some years ago,
invested in a rare variety of Peony. When her
plant came into bloom her friends admired it so
much that they all declared they must have a
“toe” of it. The poor woman hated terribly to

disturb her plant, for she was quite sure what
990

POSTSCRIPT

the result would be, having had considerabl
experience with Peonies, but she lacked the cour-
age to say no, and the consequence was that she
gave a root to the first applicant, and that made
it impossible for her to refuse the second one
and those who came after, and from that time to
this she has kept giving away “ toes,” and her
plant is a poor little thing to-day, not much
larger than when it was first planted, while plants
grown from it are large and fine. She wouldn’t
mind it so much if her friends were willing to
divide their plants with their friends, but they
will not do this “for fear of spoiling them.”
Instead, they send their friends to her. This is a
fact, and I presume it can be duplicated in almost
every neighborhood.

* * * * *

The flower-loving person is, as a general thing,
a very generous person, and he takes delight in
dividing his plants with others when he can do
so without injuring them. He is glad to do this
because of his love for flowers, and the pleasure
it affords him to get others interested in them and
their culture. But there is such a thing as being
overgenerous. Our motto should be, ““ Home’s
garden first, my neighbor’s garden afterward.”

991

BY WAY OF

It is generally thoughtlessness which prompts
people to ask us to divide our choice plants with
them. If we were to be frank with them, and tell
them why we do not care to do this, they would
readily understand the situation, and, instead of
blaming us for our refusal, they would blame
themselves for having been so thoughtlessly
selfish as to have made the request.

* * * * *

The question is often asked:

“Why can’t we save our own flower-seeds?
Aren’t the plants we grow just as healthy as
those of the seedsmen we patronize year after
year? Ought not the seed from them to be just
as good as that we buy?”

Just as good, no doubt, in one sense, and not
as good, in another. We grow our plants for
their flowers. The seedsmen grow theirs for their
seed, and in order to secure the very best article
they give their plants care and culture that ours
are not likely to get. Their methods are calcu-
lated to result in constant improvement. Ours
tend in the other direction. The person who grows
plants year after year from home-grown seed
will almost invariably tell you that her plants

“seem to be running out.”
992

POSTSCRIPT

The remedy for this state of things is to get
fresh seed, each year, from the men who under-
stand how to grow it to perfection.

* * * * *

One ought always to keep his shrubs and choice
plants labelled so that no mistake can be made as
to variety. We may be on speaking terms with
the whole Smith family, but we never feel really
acquainted with them until we know which is
John, or Susan, or William. It ought to be so
in our friendship with our plants. Who that loves
Roses would be content to speak of La France,
and Madame Plantier, and Captain Christy
simply as Roses? We must be on such intimate
terms with them that each one has a personality
of its own for us. Zhen we know them, and
not till then.

* * * * *

The best label to make use of is a zinc one, be-
cause it is almost everlasting, while a wooden one
is short lived, and whatever is written on it soon
becomes indistinct.

* * * * *
In attaching any label to a plant, be careful

not to twist the wire with which you attach it so
298

BY WAY OF

tightly that it will cut into the branch. As the
branch grows the wire will shut off the circulation
of the plant’s life-blood through that branch, and
the result will be disastrous to that portion of
the plant.

* * * * *

Different varieties of perennials ought to be
kept track of quite as much as in the case of
shrubs. ‘As the old stalks die away and are cut
off each season, there is no part of the plant to
which a label can be attached with any perma-
nence. There are iron sockets on the market into
which the piece of wood bearing the name of the
variety can be inserted. An all-wool label would
speedily decay in contact with the soil.

* * * * ®

Sometimes we get very amusing letters from
parties “in search of information.” Not long
ago a woman sent me a leaf from her Boston
Fern, calling my attention to the “ bugs ” on the
lower side of it, and asking how she could get rid
of them. How did I suppose they contrived to
arrange themselves with such regularity? A
little careful investigation would have shown her

that the rows of “bugs” were seed-spores. If
294

POSTSCRIPT

anything about your plants puzzles you, use your
eyes and your intelligence, and endeavor to find
out the “whys and wherefores” for yourself.
You will enjoy doing this when you once get
into the habit of it. Information that comes to
us through our own efforts is always appreciated
much more than that which comes to us second-
hand. Make a practice of personal investiga-
tion in order to get at a solution of the problems
that will constantly confront you in gardening
operations.

* * * * *

In answer to another correspondent who asked
me to recommend some thoroughly reliable fer-
tilizer, I advised “ old cow-manure.” Back came
a letter, saying I had neglected to state how old
the cow ought to be!

* * * * *

But the funny things are not all said by our
correspondents. I lately came across an article
credited to a leading English gardening maga-
zine in which the statement was made that a cer-
tain kind of weed closely resembling the Onion
often located itself in the Onion-bed in order to
escape the vigilance of the weed-puller, its in-

295

BY WAY OF

stinct telling it that its resemblance to the Onion
would deceive the gardener! Is anyone foolish
enough to believe that the weed knew just where
to locate itself, and had the ability to put itself
there? One can but laugh at such “ scientific
statements,” and yet it seems too bad to have
people humbugged so.

* * * * *

A woman writes: “I don’t care very much
about plants. I never did. But almost every-
body grows them, nowadays, and I’d like to have
a few for my parlor, so as to be in style. You
know the old saying that ‘one might as well
be out of the world as out of fashion.’ I wish
you'd tell me what to get, and how to take care
of it. I want something that will just about take
care of itself. I don’t want anything I'll have
to bother with.”

My advice to this correspondent was, “ Don’t
try to grow plants.”

The fact is, the person who doesn’t grow them
out of love for them will never succeed with them,
therefore it would be well for such persons not to
attempt their culture. This for the plant’s sake,
as well as their own. Plants call for something.

Plants ask for something more than a regular
296

POSTSCRIPT

supply of food and water. They must have that
sympathy,—that friendship—which enables one
to understand them and their needs, and treat
them accordingly. This knowledge will come
through intuition and from keen, intelligent ob-
servation, such as only a real plant-lover will be
likely to give. Those who grow plants—or
attempt to grow them—simply because their
neighbors do so will never bring to their cultiva-
tion that careful, conscientious attention which
alone can result in success. The idea of growing
a flower because “ it is the fashion to do so!”

* * * * *

It may seem to some who read what I have said
above that I do not encourage the cultivation of
flowers by the masses. 'That’s a wrong conclu-
sion to Jump at. I would like to have everybody
the owner of a flower-garden. Those who have
never attempted the culture of flowers are very
likely to develop a love for them of whose exist-
ence, of the possibility of which, they had never
dreamed. A dormant feeling is kindled into
activity by our contact with them. But these
persons must begin from a better motive than a
desire to have them simply because it is “the

style.” The desire to succeed with them because
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BY WAY OF

you like them will insure success. Those who
would have flowers because it is the fashion to
have them may experience a sort of satisfaction
in the possession of them, but this is a feeling
utterly unlike the pleasure known to those who
grow flowers because they love them.

* * * % *

I am not a believer in the “ knack ” of flower-
growing in the sense that some are born with a
special ability in that line, or, as some would say,
with a “ gift” that way. We often hear it said,
“Flowers will grow for her if she just looks at
them.” This is a wrong conclusion to arrive at
in the cases of those who are successful with them.
They do something more than simply “ look ” at
their plants. They take intelligent care of them.
Some may acquire this ability easier and sooner
than others, but it is a “knack” that anyone
may attain to who is willing to keep his eyes
open, and reason from cause to effect. Don’t
get the idea that success at plant-growing comes
without observation, thought, and work. All
the “knack” you need to have is a liking for
flowers, and a desire to understand how you can
best meet their special requirements.

In other words, the will to succeed will find out

the way to that result.
# * * * *
298

POSTSCRIPT
|

Just now, while I am at work on the last pages
of this book, comes an inquiry, which I answer
here because the subject of it is one of general
interest: “Every spring our Crimson Rambler
Roses are infested with thousands of green plant-
lice. The new shoots will be literally covered with
them. ‘And in fall the stalks of our Rudbeckia
are as thickly covered with a red aphis, which
makes it impossible for us to use it for cut-flower
work. Is there a remedy for these troubles? ”

Yes. Nicoticide will rid the plants of their
enemies if applied thoroughly, and persistently.
One application may not accomplish the desired
result, because of failure to reach all portions of
the plant with it, but a second or a third appli-
cation will do the work.

* * * * *

By way of conclusion I want to urge women
with “nerves” to take the gardening treatment.
Many housewives are martyrs to a prison-life.
They are shut up in the house from year’s end to
year’s end, away from pleasant sights, sounds,
fresh air, and sunshine. If we can get such a
woman into the garden for a half-hour each day,
throughout the summer, we can make a new
woman of her. Work among flowers, where the

air is pure and sweet, and sunshine is a tonic, and
299

BY WAY OF POSTSCRIPT

companionship is cheerful, will lift her out of her
work and worry, and body and mind will grow
stronger, and new life, new health, new energy
will come to her, and the cares and vexations that
made life a burden, because of the nervous strain
resulting from them, will “take wings and fly
away.” Garden-work is the best possible kind
of medicine for overtaxed nerves. It makes
worn-out women over into healthy, happy
women. “I thank God, every day, for my gar-
den,” one of these women wrote me, not long
ago. “It has given me back my health. It has
made me feel that life is worth living, after all.
I believe that I shall get so that I live in my gar-
den most of the time. By that I mean that
I shall be thinking about it and enjoying it,
either in recollection or anticipation, when
it is impossible for me to be actually in it.
My mind will be there in winter, and I will be
there in summer. Why—do you know, I did a
good deal more housework last year than ever
before, and I did it in order to find time to work
among my flowers. Work in the garden made
housework easier. Thank God for flowers, I
say!”
Yes—God be thanked for flowers!

300

A BOOK FOR THE HOME GARDENER

Four Seasons in the
Garden |

By EBEN E. REXFORD |
Author of ‘*The Home Garden’? \

Twenty-seven illustrations in tint. Colored frontispiece, Deco-
rated title-page and lining-papers. I2mo. Cloth, $1.50 net.

foremost amateur gardener of the United States.

It treats of all phases of the subject, from the

simple bed or two along the fence, in a city back
yard, to the most ambitious garden the happy subur-
banite or country dweller can manage without the ser-
vices of a professional.

The growing of house plants and the use of plants for
household and table decoration are thoroughly de-
scribed, and a couple of chapters on rural and village
improvement carry the home-gardening plan into the
larger field of community work.

A BOOK on gardening for the home-maker by the

“It contains clear and definite instruction.”
—The Outlook, New York.

“One of the most really helpful of recent garden books.”
—House Beautiful, Chicago,

“The author’s language is simple, his style is popular,
and he gives facts and instruction in an easily un erstood
form.”"— The Dial, Chicago.

“A gathering into one unusually attractive volume, from
the standpoint of the maker of books, of all the knowledge
which has been coming piecemeal from this prolific writer
on the gentle subject through many years.”

—New York Times.

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
Publishers Philadelphia

4 BOOK FOR THE HOME-MAKER

The Small Country Place

By SAMUEL T. MAYNARD

Author of “Landscape Gardening as Applied to Home
Decoration,” etc. °

Seventy-five illustrations from photographs, and nu-
merous line drawings. I2zmo. Cloth, $1.50 net.

HIS BOOK, which was written by a man who

I has spent more than thirty years teaching botan:

and horticulture, is thoroughly practical, and will

be of great value to those who live upon small
country places, especially those whose work in the city
allows them but a few hours each day to spend about
the home.

The author discusses the growing of farm and garden
OR, the care of the horse, the cow, poultry, and bees,
and similar subjects. :

Itisa nor that should be in the hands of every one
who owns or rents a bit of land in the country or
suburbs, and the large farmer will even find in it many
suggestions that will be of material aid to him.

There are a great many illustrations showing plans of
orchards, vegetable and flower gardens, lawns, roads,
walks, etc. '

‘A vade mecum for the small farmer.”
—World To-Day, Chicago.

“An excellent manual of sound and sensible advice,
founded upon actual experience."—ew York Herald.

“It is crowded full of accurate suggestion in informa-
tion which will be a godsend indeed to multitudes of
people who want to have their small country place attrac-
tive, comfortable, and in general livable.”

Edward Everett Hale, LL.D.

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
Publishers Philadelphia

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