CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY WINTERING BEES By E. R. ROOT INGE iy Dy Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924068962343 Wintering Bees An Exhaustive Treatise of the Subject Covering both the Outdoor and Indoor Methods ¢. Wi. Heppler By E. R. ROOT Published by THE A. I. ROOT CO. Medina, Ohio PREFACE. The matter for this booklet is taken from the article on wintering, in the author’s larger work, the A B C and X Y Z of Bee Culture. Some new matter, however, has been added, covering the subject of feeding and brood-rearing in mid-winter while.the bees are-in the cellar. A new chapter on the importance of windbreaks has also been added. The author now believes that a suitable form of windbreak for outdoor bees is a vital and important element in successful wintering,'and has, therefore, given this phase of the matter the consideration it deserves, in this little work. Medina, Ohio, Sept. 1, 1913. E. R. Root. WINTERIN G BEES TWO METHODS OF WINTERING BEES. There are two methods in vogue. One is called the indoor and the other the outdoor plan. Which one the reader shall use depends entirely on the locality. Where the winters are extremely cold, with continuous freezing weather prevailing through the cold months of December, January, February, and March, without warm days intervening, the indoor or cellar plan of wintering bees is the one usually followed. However, in such climates some prefer wintering in tene- ment hives where anywhere from four to ten colonies can be accommodated. In other places, say fifty or one hun- dred miles south of the great lakes, or where there is an occasional warm day, say. one or two a month when bees may fly, the outdoor method of wintering in double-walled hives, or in single-walled hives with winter cases, is the plan generally in vogue. Throughout the Southern States the ‘ plain single-walled hives are warm enough ,without extra protection. Indoor wintering in the colder localities does not require double-walled hives or winter cases; but when bees are set out in the spring, some protection should be provided. Although cellar wintering requires less expensive hives, it involves more skill—especially so if the cellar or winter repository does not afford all the favorable conditions. Just what these are will be referred to later, While the outdoor method, on the other hand, demands double-walled hives, winter cases, or something to protect the hives on their summer stands, and a shielded location protected from the ad “epeuey “JuQ ‘uopuOT jo “ASTI “CW Jo Areide og} 4e Sur19}ULM IOOpINO WINTERING BEES 3 prevailing winds, it does not require that degree of skill made necessary when. the “bees are confined in the cellar. Therefore, the majority of beginners, especially where the climate is not severe, are advised to winter outdoors. But it 1s Important to observe right’ here that the spot where the bees are kept must. be sheltered from prevailing winds. ‘With either the indoor or outdoor plan it is fair to state that, after a very severe winter.in which the mercury plays below the zero-point for weeks at a time, and when spring is very late, with a warm spell followed by a very severe cold one, losses are likely to be heavy, even among the most experienced beekeepers. But these losses can to a very great extent be minimized, even in bad years, provided one makes a study of his locality, regarding the average weather condi- tions that prevail. It. will, therefore, be the object of this booklet to set forth as nearly as possible some of the diffi- culties to be encountered, so that the reader may intelligent- ly undertake the problem. It is well'to state, though, that the very severe winters referred to do not occur more than once in 10 or 20 years, when for some reason the whole year seems to be thrown entirely out of balance; but at all other times, if one follows carefully the directions here given his losses will not exceed ten per cent, and he may keep them down as low as two per cent. Indeed, some have wintered their bees winter after winter with a loss.not exceeding five per cent, if we throw out of calculation the one year in ten which proves abnormally severe. - : OUTDOOR WINTERING. This is the simpler plan for most beginners, and the prin- ciples involved help to lay the fouridation for the more difficult problem of indoor or cellar wintering. The prime requisite for both methods of wintering is a large force of young bees reared during the latter part of summer or early fall. A colony made up of old wornout bees with very few young, no matter how strong, will be almost sure to sueeumb before spring, or reach such a weakened condition as to become practically worthless for the following seasons, As ‘ajqvaojard st satuojod pareyuLAL LOOp-jno +1OF skVAp-Suryoed ey} 19aA0 jas 0} taso0d Suidooseta} deop y—'s ‘DIT ‘sduraeys rand YM pag Ava} v jo s}sisuoo Suryovd do} ay,—e “DLT ‘g “Sig Ul umMoys Ava} ay} YA pateaoo pus ‘sary eq} uo nd SI SIU, ‘Spue oy} 38 punog-ut} ‘requiny 8 JO apeU SI IaA0d-1adns ayJ— fF “S1q *“19JUIM IOJ PEsO]d OAIY pUB ‘pa}TOSUI PvOg -UOISIAIP B ‘I@AO P2AOYS 918 SqWIOD ay} ‘pe -AOWOI SI Lapeey ay} ‘Weald st dnads juato “Ns Ia}JY ‘“Lapsay PAVOG-UOISIAIP 9]}}IT -00q @ OJUT Jod-Sul1a}VM UOMO) vB WOT paey ur Zutanod jo suueW—s ‘DIA “F32] 94} 4B UMOYSs SI [eMej}eu-sury ovd Zurarejuos fse1}-yeyo foary Heyo paes-efqnop ur Auojoo Surmrmexq WINTERING BEES 7 a general rule, in the Northern States brood-rearing ceases right after the honey-flow.. This is perfectly normal where ‘there is no late summer or fall pasturage like buckwheat; but during the latter part of August and the early part of September, brood-rearing should begin again; and unless there are natural sources of. nectar the bees will require feeding with thin syrup given in small quantities daily to stimulate. This stimulative feeding should be continued long enough to get a lot of brood in the hive so there will be a strong force of young bees to go into winter quarters. In many localities colonies will be able to gather enough nectar daily to supply themselves with young bees without any special feeding. So far the scheme of raising a large force of young bees is an important requisite for either method of wintering, but especially important where bees are wintered outdoors subjected to extremes of temperature requiring a large consumption of stores in order to keep up necessary heat. It is unwise to attempt to winter bees outdoors in single- walled hives north of 40 degrees north latitude While the colonies may come through after a fashion, the shock of the exposure will be so great that they probably will not be good for much to gather honey. It is also highly important that the hives be protected from high winds, and that the walls: surrounding the hive be double and warm. Colonies in dou- ble-walled hives out in the open, and where there is a strong windsweep, may not survive, while those in single-walled hives screened by buildings, woods, or dense shrubbery, may winter well. To say the least, it would appear that protec- tion from the prevailing winds is just as important as hav- ing the walls of the hives double. Special double-walled hives are manufactured, having the space between filled with chaff, planer-shavings,. leaves, or other, suitable material. The cover or roof should also be double so that the heat of the cluster will not too readily radiate away, thus causing a great- consumption of stores in order to keep up the neces- sary animal heat; for it should be remembered that, the warmer and better protected the cluster, the less honey they 8 WINTERING BEES require to eat. It is desirable to have the bees, so far as possible, enter a quiet state of sleep, or semi-hibernation, that practically amounts to a condition of suspended anima- tion. But an extremely cold spell will make it necessary for this cluster to unfold and consume its stores in order to keep up the temperature. When, therefore, a colony is so poorly protected that it has to overeat in order to keep warm, the bees will become distended, and dysentery or purging is almost sure to follow. This occurring in mid-winter or early spring means the death of the colony, as there is no cure for it but warm weather. ; A hive having double walls well packed with a warm cush- ion on top, and‘a good cover, makes about as good a winter home as it is possible to construct. A tray containing chaff, planing-mill shavings, or forest leaves resting under the telescope cover keeps the top warm. A large cushion may be used instead but it is not so good. The extra packing and double walls not only save in the consumption of stores, but eliminate to a great extent winter losses. WINTER CASES FOR SINGLE-WALLED HIVES, Because double-walled hives are somewhat expensive, many beekeepers start with single-thickness hives, intending to winter, perhaps, indoors. How shall they be prepared and yet give as good results, practically, as can be obtained from the more expensive double-thickness hives? Very good outside winter cases are obtainable from supply manufac- turers, large enough to telescope down over the hive. The cover of the single-walled hive, if it projects over, as most of them do, should be removed, and what is known as a thin super-cover—that is, a thin board of the same width and length as the hive, substituted. Several folds of newspaper, old carpeting, or any other suitable material, should be laid crosswise and lengthwise over the top of the hive. Enough of them should be put on so that, when the winter case is put on, it will telescope over, crowding the folds of news- paper or other packing material neatly around the inner WINTERING BELS § hive. The illustration herewith given will give some idea of the scheme here proposed. Telescope cap. Another plan, and possibly just as good, embodying the same principle,. but more laborious and cheaper, may be employed. Instead of having a winter case made of wood, the protection is made-up of.a large square of medium- weight manilla or roofing paper, laid on top of folds of newspaper as before directed, and then neatly folded down on the sides and ends as one would do up a package, and tied with a string as shown in the following illustration. It will also be important not to make the mistake of making the folds come down over the end of the hive in such a way that they will.catch and hold water. In the next illustration the method of wrapping and tacking the paper is shown. If one uses manilla paper it would, perhaps, be well to cover it with a coat of grease, or, better still, linseed-oil. In the spring one can examine his bees by loosening the bowknot of the string, lifting off the paper cover, and finally the packing under it. After examination, the paper can be readjusted as before, with the packing material underneath. In cold localities this packing should not be less than two inches thick. If one can not secure enough newspapers per- haps he can contrive some scheme for using old carpeting or grain-sacks, especially such as are unfit for any other pur- 10 WINTERING BEES pose. He can usually obtain quite a quantity of these by going to the farmer or miller; and he may (and probably will) receive free all he can take away. In selecting a roofing-paper for the purpose, avoid the heavy grades, as they are expensive, and do not fold readily ; and, when folded, they will break on removing the string. A winter case made of second-hand, wrapping-paper as used at Medina. A greased manijla paper, about like flour-sacking, gives very good results; any paper which will stand weather, and yet fold up flat again in summer after the cold winter and spring are over, will answer. The next two illustrations show a better arrangement—paper wrapping, a cushion, and, last of all, a wooden case to telescope over the whole. Some use, instead of the string to fasten the paper down, strips of wood tacked on. These hold the paper close against ‘doy uo peoeid uorysnd yeyo qyIM eseo JoyuIM redeg “9880 JOJUIA wepood pur szeded uoneuiquiog ‘BUIIO}JULM LOOPyNO TOF MLAS Ul Sseaq Suryoed jo poyjam s,uostaeq “J, “M = WINTERING BEES 13 the hive in a way the string does not. This is important, as it keeps out the cold. Another method of protecting the single-walled hives is to get some old drygoods-boxes. Pile straw on top of the hives, then push the large box back over the hive. But as these boxes are of such varieties of shapes and sizes they are not usually very satisfactory; and, besides, they do not shed rain unless covered with roofing-paper. - Another scheme is to put the hives in a row under a shed, leaving the point of least exposure in front. Where there Townsend’s method of protecting hives after setting out in the spring. is no protection of the buildings or trees to screen in the apiary, a shed with the back to the prevailing winds is a great help. Under such a shed straw is then packed in between the hives and in the rear, after which it is covered with boards to shed water. WINTERING BEES IN TENEMENT HIVES. A tenement hive, as its name indicates, is one large winter case capable of housing anywhere from two to a dozen colonies in single-walled hives. It is usually composed of <—_ 7 xo - x WAOS* %47 SATAN A " CU ; lower illustration showing interior. Bartlett’s winter case for holding four ten-frame colonies 16 WINTERING BEES large cleated panels made of cheap lumber for the sides and ends, and with a roof of like material covered with roofing paper. The whole is held together at the intersecting cor- ners by means of Van Deusen hive-clamps, or hooks and eyes or screws. When the bees are unpacked in the spring the panels are removed and laid away until the following September or October, when they are brought into use again. The tenement hive finds its advocates and users in colder climates—that is, climates where the ordinary double-walled hives do not give quite enough protection, and where cellar wintering generally prevails. But indoor wintering has its disadvantages, as we will show a little later. Many cellars are poorly adapted for keeping bees over winter. Special repositories for the purpose are expensive; and even when the best conditions are provided it requires a good deal of skill to bring the bees through successfully from fall to spring. And this is not all. The cellar plan of wintering requires the moving of the bees in and out of the cellar, and more or less attention during the winter to provide for the varying degrees of temperature and the necessary ventila- tion. Mr. R. F. Holtermann, for example, whose bee-cellar is shown a little later on, gives the following reasons why he abandoned his $1000 bee-cellar, described further on, and has now adopted the tenement-hive scheme of wintering. When wintering in the above-named cellar my method was to remove the bees from the cellar and place them on stands. They were next taken to clover pasture, sometimes a distance of thirty miles. Next they were taken to buckwheat, and finally returned to the: bee-yard in connection with the cellar. By this method the hives and bees were unprotected during the spring, also in the autumn, until placed in winter quarters about Nov. 20 was also compelled to be on hand when the cold‘ weather began to mod- erate in spring, and there was always a good deal of anxiety as to the best time to set out, sometimes to find that, owing to conditions of weath- er, many bees had perished in their first flight, and others had drifted to the disadvantage of weaker stocks. There are various styles of tenement hives. One of the simplest and best is the Bartlett. The cut renders the mode of construction so plain that further description will be unnecessary except to say that the several panels are held together by means of wood screws. The four hives are plac- WINTERING BEES 17 ed in contact with each other (for the purpose of conserving ihe heat of the clusters) when the space between the group of hives and the winter case is filled with packing material, consisting of planer shavings, forest leaves, straw, or chaff. Mr. R. F. Holtermann uses a tenement made out of cheap half-ineh boards, and he thus describes it: As I now winter the bees shown in the illustrations in connection with this article, four twelve-frame Langstroth hives are 'wintered in an outer case; two hives are placed in the case side by side, and another two also side by side, but back to back with the first pair. This makes two sides of each hive have the best of winter protection—namely, the protection of other hives warm with bees. The cases consist of a platform of half-inch boards nailed upon three cleats 1x 4 inches, the two at each end being on edge, to give strength. The three cleats extend half an inch beyond the side of the platform, and are so arranged that the two at the ends project half their thickness beyond the ends of the floor-boards. = By this construction the half-inch siding lumber may extend down past the floor, and rest upon the half-inch projéctions all around, pro- tecting all from lodging water and snow. The sides and erids of the case are made of tongue-and-groove material, 4% inch thick, 32 inches high, and therefore make a case deep enough to hold an extracting-super on top of the hive. This half-inch stuff is kept together and strengthened by a cleat on the inside, 1x2 inches, and half an inch shorter than the side or end is high, namely, 22% inches. These cleats come even with the top of the case, but are 4% inch short at the bottom, the object being to allow the side or end to extend the half-inch below the top of the platform, and rest on the end of the bottom cleats, as mentioned. The cover of the case is made of half-inch material nailed at the ends to 1x 2%-inch cleats. These latter cleats extend down over the case. They strengthen the cover; and if the locality is windy they can be fastened to the case by means of hooks. The lumber is covered with roofing-paper, nailed to the wood part of the cover, and made water-tight by the judicious use of roofing cement. The cases, from the above de- scription, will be seen to have a perfectly level or flat cover. They can be made to shed water by slightly raising one side of the case. The bees go in and out through the case by means of %-inch round holes, Three are recommended, but I will confess I, have found that size of entrance inadequate in the spring before removing from: the case, as I leave the bees packed sometimes until clover is opening, having many supers on before removing from the case. The case is set on blocks 8 to 12 inches high, one at each corner. This takes them above water and ice which may lie or form on the ground. There are no supports for the center cleat, as this is held up to the case by means of galvanized iron straps 6x1 inch, binding it to the siding. Considering the tendency to settle and heave, it would be practically impossible to support the case evenly at six points, and by using the above device it is unnecessary. , Mr. G. C. Greiner goes one step further, in that he winters five hives in a tenement. . seh a Se “WOO[G-IOsOTO [JUN S}USMSMO} OS94} UI IJ] W9}JO GIG SOTMO[OD oY} !sprvé UUBMIIO}OTT Vy} JO 9u0 JO MOTA “YyeouLapUN Ary 9y} MOGs OF JNO UeHe} seAvel puL ‘PeaoMleL ATY JUANG} SUULMIIIOH JO 1800 OY, 20 WINTERING BEES All the tenement hives here shown are made up of cheap lumber. The panels are cleated, and held together by hooks or screws. As soon as the winter is over, and settled warm weather has come, the packing is removed and the panels taken down and laid away for the season. The Greiner method of wintering contemplates the plan of removing the eC Gh GE 2 SUMMER POSITION assis nog 3 SHIFTED READY FOR SHEOS @2 2 2. = SO oe PACKED IN SHEDS Greiner’s arrangement of hives before and. after putting in winter -cases. hives from their summer position to the winter position, so that they can be covered by the tenement sheds. The meth- od of making that shift Mr. Greiner explains as follows: To explain fully the proper way of moving bees successfullv—that is, without any loss of bees—I refer the reade? to the accompanyin; drawing. The upper row shows ten colonies as I work them for extracte honey during the season. They are equally spaced with two feet in the clear between the hives. 7 The second row shows the same hives after the first shift is made. The four hives, 2, 4, 7, 9, are moved their width toward the center hives WINTERING BEES 21 3 and 8. After two or three days (and, of course, I mean flying days), when these shifted colonies have again become accustomed to their new location, the end hives of each section of five, represented by the figures 1, 5, 6, 10, may then be slightly moved toward their respective centers. Under no consideration should these latter be shifted at the same time when the first shift, Fig. 2, is made. That would bring their new stand too near the stands of those just moved, so that more or less mixing up would be encouraged. The third row shows the ten colonies in position ready for the sheds. If carefully managed, and if the shifting has been done according to the hints here given, they should arrive at these places without the loss of a single bee. This form of tenement, however, we do not regard as quite the equal of the Bartlett or the Holtermann. Relatively it has a greater amount of exposed surface to the colony. Then we believe it to be an advantage to place the hives in tight contact in order that the bees may borrow warmth from each other. Mr. Holtermann and Mr. Bartlett, if we are not mistaken, keep their hives running all summer in groups of four a few inches apart. This avoids all shifting from one season to another, and yet allows the owner to have one side and one end as a means of approach in handling. When it comes time to put the bees into winter quarters, there is no lifting nor shifting, except to place the hives in direct contact, when they are ready to pack for winter. It is our opinion that the average beginner in the colder climates will sueceed better with the tenement plan of win- tering than he would with the most up-to-date bee-cellar. THE IMPORTANCE OF WINDBREAKS. In various places leading up to this, we have mentioned the importance of windbreaks to screen the hives from a strong windsweep. ‘For instance, a bad location for winter- ing bees outdoors is on top of a hill with a clear stretch of country for a mile or two in the direction of the prevailing winds. Although the bees may be nicely housed in double- walled hives, the high winds during cold and chilly weather may and probably will have a disastrous effect on the bees. Many of them, lured out by a bright sunshine on certain days, will be caught by a chilling blast. They will drop on to the ground; and unless there is a change in the tempera- 22 WINTERING BEERS ture or the wind for a few days they will never come back. On the other hand, a yard screened in by farm buildings, by a growth of woods or dense shrubbery, will be able to with- stand the cold much better. While the bees may fly out on bright sunny days, experience shows that they quickly seek the protected inclosure where their hives are, and soon enter. Likewise there are certain spots in an apiary where some hives are exposed to a long windsweep, while others are in a more protected position. Observation covering a period of years has shown that the latter winter much better than the former. Again, it has been shown that colonies in single-walled hives may winter comparatively well in a sheltered location, while those in double-walled hives out in the open air will die. To say the least, the matter of protection and the mat- ter of prevailing winds are of vital importance in outdoor wintering. Windbreaks of woods or dense shrubbery ten or twelve feet high are better than high board fences. Farm buildings like barns and sheds at least twelve or fifteen feet high afford excellent screens. The objection to a high board fence is that the wind strikes it and glances upward, when it i» caught by the blast of air from overhead. It may then dive downward and strike the third or fourth row of hives from the fence. Repeated observation has shown that this row of bees may die when other rows winter comparatively well. In the case of woods or shrubbery the wind can not glance upward and dive downward. The blast filters through, and by the time it penetrates the inner inclosure its force is broken. It therefore is of the greatest importance in locating an apiary to find a spot that is protected, not only in winter but in early spring and late fall, and even in summer weather. We had one apiary located on a side hill and another in the open. The side-hill bees faced the south. During a cold spell in fruit bloom the last-named bees worked freely on the blossoms, while inthe yard exposed to the windsweep there was nothing doing. The side-hill bees continued to WINTERING BEES 23 rear brood, while the exposed bees brought every thing to a standstill. IMPORTANCE OF LETTING BEES FORM A WINTER NEST. What do we mean by “ winter nests”? We mean a space of empty brood-cells in one or more combs, such space ap- proximating the form of a hemisphere in ordinary Lang- stroth brood-nests. These empty cells surrounded by sealed stores constitute the winter nest where the bees cluster when conditions are ideal. As the stores are consumed, the num- ber of empty cells increases either backward or forward, but always upward. Asa general thing we find the ball of bees located near the front of the hive and regularly over the entrance. As the stores are consumed they move upward and backward; but the cluster in no case extends over the sealed honey when the bees can have their own sweet will. Very often a well-meaning A B C scholar finds three or four combs in the center of the hive, having a space of empty cells as large as the hand spread out. He thinks this is all wrong and will remove the combs containing such spaces, and put in their place solid combs of honey. What has he done? He has compelled the bees to cluster upon sealed honey. The cluster is broken up into slabs approx- imately 34 inch thick, each slab of bees separated by ap- proximately an inch of solid honey. Instead of having one solid cluster separated by only the midrib of the combs, he has made a series of clusters, each within itself trying to maintain its own body heat but at a very great disadvantage. Let us illustrate: Two people on a cold winter’s night re- quire less bed clothing than one person would in the same bed. Now, then, suppose that, instead of having those two bed-fellows separated from each other by only their night clothing, we have a slab of metal or even wood between them. If they are compelled to place their warm bodies in contact with that cold surface they lose a great deal of their 24 WINTERING BEES body heat because the cold surfaces carry away (that is, dissipate) the warmth. We have exactly that condition when we insert combs of sealed honey into a bunch of bees. We compel them to divide up into four or five clusters. The result is, that colonies tampered with in this manner perish or come out in the spring very weak because of their inability to main- tain the requisite temperature. Where outside bees become stiff with cold they can not long endure that condition. If a colony is fed gradually during October and Novem- ber they will form this winter nest. If, however, they are on the verge of starvation and they are fed 30 lbs. in a single night toward the last end of the fall, or when it is quite cold, they do not have the opportunity of forming this nest. They will carry the syrup down while it is hot; then for a few days after that, if it is so they can fly, or, rather, so the cluster can move freely about the brood-nest, they may or may not rearrange the stores. The cluster, when it actu- ally forms up for winter, will be practically one homogene- ous mass of bees separated by only thin cell walls and the midribs of the combs. If anybody doubts that bees try to have a winter nest, let him break into several clusters of bees when the temperature is down to about 5 above zero, in an outdoor colony. We have done this repeatedly. If the arrangement of combs has uot been disturbed in the fall, we will probably find the bees tightly jammed into the cells. And, again, we will often discover, as we go over our colonies in the late winter or early spring, that some of them have actually starved to death. In all such cases we will see dead bees tightly pack- ed in the cells of the winter nest, and a solid mass of bees between the several spaces between the combs. Starvation is often due to the fact that cold weather has continued so long without a let-up that the bees are left high and dry, so to speak, in the center of the winter nest. They actually starve, notwithstanding that sealed honey is within two inches of the cluster. The long-continued cold has given them no opportunity 1o warm up and shift the cluster over WINTBRING BEES 25 in contact with the sealed honey. We have seen this condi- tion almost every winter in our yard. Still again, we have often found dead colonies where some of our newer men in the bee-yard had disturbed the combs, putting a solid comb of honey right down through the center of the winter nest. This made two bunches of bees; and both, being too small, died. When it comes to indoor wintering, especially where the cellar temperature does not go below 45 F., a winter nest is not so vitally necessary. But if the temperature goes down below 45, then the absence of a winter nest may mean the death of a colony. Nature has worked out this problem of wintering bees; and when we tamper with her plans we tamper with our pocketbook. While we can do certain things contrary to nature, we can not interfere with her plan in the arrange- ment of the combs. NON-POROUS COVERS OR ABSORBING CUSHIONS OVER THE CLUSTER OF BEES. There has been considerable discussion in the bee-journals over the question of whether there should be loose porous absorbing-cushions or other material placed above the cluster of bees so that the moisture from a cluster can pass up into the packing, or whether, on the other hand, the top of the hive should have a thin board or super cover on top. In the milder climates it seems to be pretty well proven that the wood cover over the bees brings the bees through in better shape. In the colder climates, such as Notthern Michigan, Canada, Northern Wisconsin, Minnesota, and'Northern New York, a porous covering seems to have somewhat the pref- erence, although we find advocates of the solid-cover prin- ciple in these localities. If there is danger of the entrance becoming closed by deep snows or ice for weeks at a time, upward ventilation through porous packing would probably be safer, for bees must have air. 36 WINTERING BEES Wihen the top of the hive is closed tight, the moisture from the bees collects on the under side of the cover, drips down, and passes out at the entrance. The absorbing cushions, on the other hand, in our climate often become damp and soggy before spring. When in that condition they will sometimes freeze; and, so far from being a protection, they are a positive detriment. But where the climate is cold and dry, the temperature going down to 10 or 20 below zero, the absorbing cushions will be less damp than in a milder cli- mate subject to more or less humidity on account of moist or rainy weather. When absorbing cushions are used, there must be a space of at least one inch over the top of the packing. In addition, there should be ventilating-holes so that the moisture can escape. But these holes should be so situated as to prevent rain or snow from blowing in. When non-porous covers are used, it takes less packing than when the absorbing plan is employed; but the entrances must be kept clear. If one has not decided which scheme to adopt, we suggest that he try the two side by side. We have tried sheets of glass the exact size of the tops of the hives. These are imbedded in putty, making a tight sealing between the glass and the hive. The packing material is the placed on top. We have wintered most successfully ane where from one to a dozen colonies, during successive win- ters, under these sealed glass covers—not because there was any merit in the glass, but because we could better observe conditions. We could never see that this moisture that col- lects and drops at the corners ever did any harm. BEST KIND OF PACKING MATERIAL. Wheat or oat chaff, preferably the former, has been ree- ommended as being the best material to use; but since the advent of new methods of separating the chaff from the wheat by means of a suction-fan, it is not now easy to obtain the chaff. We now recommend dry forest-leaves, plenty of them, or planer-shavings. Cut straw does very well. In milder climates, two thicknesses of old carpeting or burlap sacking will do. In colder climates we could use WINTERING BEES 27 not less than six inches of packing. If the absorbing scheme is used, eight inches will be better. SIZE OF ENTRANCES. It has been shown that the entrance should be reduced down so as not to be larger than 3g x 8 inches; and in the case of some of the smaller colonies it would be better to have the openings 34 x 3 or 4 inches. In all cases of out- door wintering it is important to keep these entrances clear, and it may, therefore, be necessary to rake out the dead bees now and then which may accumulate; for should Py entrance become clogged the death of the colony must ollow. ; WINTER STORES—QUALITY AND QUANTITY. _ We have now considered the inclosure, or the hives them- selves, for holding a colony for outdoor wintering. Some- thing should be said about the quality and quantity of the stores. It is fair to say that bees outdoors consume nearly twice as much as those indoors; but it is argued, on the other hand, that while the former consume this larger pro- portion of food they keep stronger numerically and will be in better condition at harvest time than those wintered in- doors on half the amount. The opinion of the beekeeping world is somewhat divided on this whole question; but cer- tain it is that he who winters outdoors should provide twice the amount of stores, or at least see that his colonies, after the main brood-rearing has ceased, have from 20 to 25 lbs. of sealed stores. The beginner will need to weigh up his combs for the first colony or two, to be able to estimate approximately the stores of other colonies. As a general thing an eight-frame colony should be crowd- ed on six combs, andaten on an eight. The division-board must be shoved up close to the frames, and empty space, if any, filled with leaves or other packing material. It is de- sirable that bees have stores given to them at least a month before they go into their winter sleep, so they may have a 28 WINTERING BEES winter nest around which will be sealed stores within easy reach. As to quality, there is nothing better than pure eranulated-sugar syrup, although any good first-class table honey, if well ripened, will give as good results. Many beekeepers pursue the policy of extracting all the honey and feeding sugar syrup. At the present price of sugar and honey one can afford to do this; and, moreover, the very act of feeding will stimulate rearing young bees. This in itself is worth all it costs. Although a colony has sufficient stores by the middle or latter part of August it may run considerably short by the first of November, especially if a fall flow induces brood- rearing. In any case it is well to go over the colonies just prior to the final preparation for winter, and make sure they do not run short. This is very important as many a colony has been lost through starvation when their owner supposed they had enough to last till spring. BEES FLYING OUT ON CHILLY OR COLD DAYS AND APPARENTLY DYING ON THE GROUND. In a late winter or early spring, bees will very often fly out on a bright day, whether it is very warm or not. They alight on the ground or some object, become chilled, and apparently die. Cases are on record where bees have flown out, alighted on the ground, become stiff and cold, and were apparently dead. There was one instance in particular of this kind where thousands of bees had flown out and lay on the ground apparently never to return. i i > ee > LE "Fresh Air ; ; : r Fig. 3. Horizontal plan showing scheme of ventilation. Room B has solid concrete walls to prevent ‘danger from fire from the stove at C. Under the stove is the sub-earth ventilator opening that supplies fresh air, which, if too cold, is warmed and then forced through the distributing- flues D DD D, which are perforated by one-inch holes. The flues D D are closed at the ends, and all air must pass out at the holes indicated by the arrows. F F are ventilators carrying foul air and moisture by means of flues extending through the roof, . A few pages back we explained that Mr. Holtermann is rot now using this bee-cellar. The reason for this is not because he could not winter successfully, but rather because ‘doysy10M put -xv[[90-9eq ejeroU0D §s,UUeUL.10}/0F7 *IB{[90-90q UULUIIE}OP oY} JO So[SI¥ OY} UMOP ZUIBOO] MOIA 10110}UT ‘Ie]]90-00q 9}010M09 S,TosTARCy WINTERING BEES 55 he was away from home all winter: He was compelled to adopt a method that would permit him to put the bees into winter quarters in October, and leave them there without further attention until the following spring. See what he has to say on the subject a few pages back. But in view of the fact that the Holtermann cellar is the most elaborate and best-appointed bee-cellar that was ever constructed in this country or Canada, we preserve its de- scription with illustrations because there are doubtless some who may be compelled to winter indoors where even the tenement plan of outdoor wintering would not be adequate to protect the bees from the severe cold that might prevail in the locality. WINTERING BEES IN CLAMPS. In parts of the country where the soil is sandy and por- ous, bees are often wintered in trenches dug in the ground. These are ahout 18 inches deep, large enough to hold two rows of ten hives each. The hives are set upon 2x 4’s to keep them off the ground. Three of these are used, one at each side and one in the middle, with the flat or wide side down. The bottoms are removed from the-hives,.and the covers raised half an inch or so to provide upward ventila- tion. About 18 inches of straw is thrown over the hives, and then the dirt is shoveled on. The engravings shown on ‘next page illustrate the plan as practiced by E. D. Townsend, of Remus, Michigan. The first engraving shows the dirt partly shoveled away and some of the hives removed. The next illustration shows all of the hives removed in the spring from the pits or-clamps, and set on their summer stands. It would seem as though there ought to be some provision made for ventilation; but when it is remembered that the soil is sandy and very porous, it is seen that this is not necessary. This plan can not be made use of in a location where the soil is composed largely of clay. Mr. Townsend thinks that it is well to have surface drains along each side of the pits to carry off any water that may come that way. ‘MaWey sLadaoyaag WoL4g~—punoi3 943 Ul dnp seyouer, 10 sdure[o ul serm0[oo SUL1e}UL MA “mamey sic deayaag wotg—surids oy} ul seyouer} oy} wos} paaower ysut saTmojop { | segments 58 WINTERING BEES DO BEES HIBERNATE? We have spoken of the quiescent state or sleep into which bees enter when the wintering conditions are ideal. In this period of semi-hibernation the bees seem merely to exist. With no activity the consumption of stores is very light. As the reader may wish to pursue this subject a little fur- ther we have thought best to take it up to help solve some of the wintering problems, and, perhaps, lead to some good results from an economic point of view. Hibernation was exploited about 30 years ago, when it was generally decided, and rightly, too, that bees do not hibernate in the ordinary sense of the term (see American Bee Jowrnal for 1885). But they do enter a quiescent state when the temperature has been lowered; and this state is somewhat analogous to the torpor experienced by some ani- mals in a state of true hibernation, during which no. food is taken, and respiration js considerably reduced. Dr. Mar- shall Hall has stated that “respiration is inversely as the degree of irritability of the muscular fiber.” If the respira- tion is reduced without this irritability being increased, death results from asphyxia. Hibernation is usually induc- ed by cold, and the animal under its influence attains nearly the temperature of the surrounding atmposhere, yet can not resist any amount of cold, although its capacity for doing so varies according to the animal Some animals bury them- selves in holes, like snakes and frogs; others, like the bear, crawl under a pile of leaves and brush where they are still further covered with snow. Thus buried they will go all winter without food or water; but there is a waste of tissue. Fish may be encased in ice and still live, it is said. A lively frog may be dropped into a pail of water four or five inches deep, and exposed to a freezing temperature. Indeed, there may be a thin coating of ice formed over the animal. The next morning, that frog, though stiff and cold, ean be warm- ed up into activity, but to freeze solid will kill the creature. Flies, as is well known, will secrete themselves in window- frames and other hiding places, subject to cold atmosphere, WINTERING BEES 59 for weeks at a time, and yet revive on exposure to warmth. As is well known, also, ants have been repeatedly dug out of logs, frozen solid—in fact, fairly enveloped in frost; yet on exposure to warmth they will come to. Some hibernators ean endure a freezing temperature, while others, like the bear, woodehuck, and the like, can not. Other very inter- esting incidents may be taken from natural history; but the purpose of this article is to consider whether bees go into a quiescent state that approaches hibernation, in whieh there is low respiration and a small consumption of stores. Two or three years ago we put a number of cages of bees with some queens (laying the cages down on cakes of ice) in a refrigerator. The bees were chilled to absolute stiffness. Every day we would take out a cage, and each time the bees would revive, including the queen. This thing was continu- ed for several days, and yet the bees would “ come to” each time. The strange part of it was, that the queens went on laying normally when put back in the hives, instead of laying drone eggs as we expected. Just what the temperature to which these bees were subjected was we can not say—probably something below 40 and something above 35, for the doors of the refrigerator were frequently opened, and the ice was constantly melting. During one winter, when a very cold snap came on—the temperature going down to zero—we put out some cages of bees, exposing them to the cold wind, which was then blowing a pretty good gale, when the temperature was 5 above zero. We had expected that the bees possibly might be able to survive the shock for a number of hours, and yet revive; but 20 minutes of zero freezing was sufficient to kill them outright. If we had taken the bees and gradually aeclima- tized them to the cold, first subjecting them to 40, then to 35, and gradually down to the zero point, they would possibly have withstood the shock. When the weather warmed up a little we took several cages of bees and buried them in the snow, leaving with them a thermometeer so that we might know the absolute 60 WINTERING BEES temperature. We went out and got a cage of bees about every two or three hours, and we found that we could revive them without difficulty; but at the end of 24 hours the bees, when they “came to,” seemed somewhat the worse for the experience. The temperature in’the snow played around the 32 mark. But the experiments conducted during the summer would seem to show that bees might stand a temper- ature of 38 for a number of days. We know it to be a fact that the bees on the outside of the ball. or cluster, in an out-door-wintered colony, will often be chilled stiff while those inside have almost a blood. tempera- ture. It has occurred to us that, during very severe weather, the outside bees may be gradually replaced by those within the cluster; for we know the bees are in constant movement. Experiments show that a starved bee will not stand as much cold as one that is well filled. Beekeepers who have had any experience in wintering outdoors know how repeatedly they have taken clusters of bees that seemed to be frozen stiff, yet when warmed up before a good fire would revive and appear as lively as ever. In view of the experiments we have thus far conducted, it would appear that bees might be able to stand a tempera-' ture of 40, or slightly below that, for a number of days; but if a warm spell does not come within a week, or less, those bees in their chilled condition may starve to death. But if it warms up, the cluster will unfold and the bees take food, and so be ready for another “ freeze.” The authors have repeatedly seen clusters of bees, after a zero spell, last- ing a couple of weeks, that were stone dead; but the honey had. been eaten from all around them within a radius of an inch or more. If a zero spell of weather continues more than a week or ten days, we always find some of.the weaker colonies frozen to death in the spring. There are some interesting phenomena in connection with chilled bees—their quiescent sleep, their low respiration, their light consumption of stores—that simulate a condition ‘of semi-hibernation. The bees when in a chilled condition ean go only a few days without food, while a bear, a true WINTERING BEES 61 hibernator, may go all winter. When the lemperature of a bee-cellar goes up to 50 or 60 the bees are active. Their respiration is normal. They must have ventilation, or die in large numbers. If we can maintain a temperature down to 45, with slight variation, there is a state of sleep where the respiration is very low, food consumption slight, and consequently not. much fresh air is needed, or not more than what will percolate through the walls of the repository. There is a practical side to this matter; for if we can induce semi-hibernation or torpor we cut down the con- sumption of stores. WINTERING IN THE SOUTHERN STATES. The directions so far given apply particularly to localities that are subject to zero weather at times, that have more or less of snow, during the greater portion of the year, a large amount of frost in the ground, extending down perhaps two feet. Where bees can fly almost every day in the year, and for ten months are able to gather a little honey or pollen, out- door wintering in single-walled hives is recommended. Double-walled hives would do no harm, and would, during the coldest of the weather, save considerable brood. The added expense for the extra walls and packing will be offset by the saving in brood and bees. While we recommend single hives for the southern portions of our country, and for some parts of the West, we always urge that the same be located in an inelosure of trees, a tight high board fence, a hedge, or any thing in the way of buildings that will break the pre- vailing winds. To establish windbreaks is one of the most important requisites in either the northern or southern por- tions of the country. _ While no great skill is needed to winter bees in such local- ities as are found in Florida, South Carolina, Texas, Louis- iana, Georgia, Alabama, and Southern California, yet one must be careful to see that his bees do not run short of stores, as it seems to be a generally acknowledged fact that bees wintered in the South consume much more stores, ac- 62 WINTERING BEES cording to the size of the colony, than in the North. Those in cold climates are compelled to contract into a very small ball for the purpose of concentrating the animal heat; and while in that condition they are in a semi-dormant state, and consume a comparatively small quantity of food. On the other hand, bees in the South, especially in the warmest por- tions, can‘ have access to all parts of the hive, rear more or less brood, and, as a consequence, when natural flora does not secrete nectar they are liable to run short of stores, and starve. To the Southlander let us urge that the greatest danger is starvation, and the next greatest is more or less of robbing during a dearth of honey. Indeed, all things considered, we believe Southern bees require more watching than those of the North. In localities like Virginia, Tennessee, and other States ly- ing in about the same latitude, it might be advisable to use double-walled hives; yet we know that the majority of bee- keepers in that latitude winter their bees successfully in single-walled hives; but we believe it is the general practice to place on top of the hive a super containing chaff, leaves, planer-shavings, or some good warm packing-material; moreover, when the colony is not very strong it is advisable, to place a chaff division-board on each side of the cluster. In all cases there should not be given a larger cubic capacity than the bees can comfortably fill, spread out as they usually are on a day when the temperature is not below 70 F. In Colorado it is customary to winter“in single-walled hives. A shallow cap or tray containing a few inches of packing is placed on the top of the hive. Very often, for further protection, a sort of shed or roof, with its back to the prevailing winds, is built over a row of hives. The Colorado beekeeeprs are troubled with sandstorms and fierce piercing winds; while the temperature may go down below zero, it is not likely to remain so for more than a few hours, when one extreme will change to a temperature of 60 or 70 F., and the bees flying. For such conditions double-walled hives and an excess of packing-material have been found to be not at all necessary.