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Titles included in this collection are listed in the volumes published by the Cornell University Press in the series THE LITERATURE OF THE AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES, 1991-1995, Wallace Cc. Olsen, series editor. TH 1A Poa TY State College of Agriculture At Cornell University Ithaca, N.Y. Library FRUIT-GARDENING CONTAINING COMPLETE PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE SELECTION, PROPAGATION AND CULTIVATION OF ALL KINDS OF FRUIT BY THOMAS BRIDGEMAN GARDENER, SEEDSMAN AND FLORIST PHILADELPHIA HENRY T. COATES & CO. Bi UM J oe Lk ti FRA, = be / a ee ae - 7 wale ee FRUIT-GARDENING. CHAPTER L SELECTING FRUIT-TREES IN THE NURSERY. In the choice of fruit-trees, all possible care and attention are necessary ; for, to have trees that do not answer the expec- tations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment. As the young gardner may need such directions calculated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavor to furnish them. Whatever species or varieties of fruit-trees are wanted, choose those trees that are vigorous and straight, and of a healthy appearance. Whether they have been grafted or budded, be careful to select’ such as have been worked on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old, crooked, stunted stocks, seldom succeed well, Trees that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining bark. Such as are mossy, or have a rough, wrinkled bark, or are the least affected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is discoverable in the young wood, and generally two or three inches above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot, Nectarine, Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the lower part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the ground, and only one graft or bud should be upon each stock; for when there are more, the tree cannot be brought to so handsome a form. In some of the following articles, it will be seen that several, 10 FRUIT-GARDENING. descriptions of trees may be transplantcd with safety, even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or five years’ growth, after having been headed down, that are healthy, and well furnished with fruit-bearing wood close up to the centre of the tree, can be obtained, they will do very well; but great care is requisite in taking up, removing, and planting such. Le‘ the tree be taken up with as great a portion of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, split, or damage them ; for want of attention to these points, trees often become diseased. Whenever any roots have been accidentally broken, split, or otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them be cut off; or if they cannot be well spared, let the damaged or bruised part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and a portion of grafting-wax be spread over the wound, in order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise injure the tree. The necessity of pruning-in and dressing mangled roots is particularly required in trees of the stone fruit, such as Apri- cots, Nectarines, Peaches, and Plums; for without the appli- “cation of some remedy, they gum at the ronts, which defect, if not counteracted, very materially injures the upper part of the trees, which may become so affected as never to recover afterwards; therefore, great care should be taken not to occa- sion such injury; and when accidents happen, all due caution and application are necessary to promote a healthy and vigor- ous growth. A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly corresponding to the branches; at least, it should have one strong root in a similar proportion to the bole of the tree, with a proper distribution of branching fibres. Healthy roots are always smooth and clear; their color varies a little according to the kind of tree; but the older the roots are, the darker the color is. After the tree is taken up, be careful, in conveying it to the place where it is to be planted, that the roots are not chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed to a considerable dis- tance, they should be well guarded by straw, or otherwise, in FRUIT-GARDENING, 11 order to prevent injury. All damaged or bruised rovts should be pruned, as soon as the tree is taken up; but if it be neces- sary to prune away any sound, good roots, such pruning should be delayed until the time of planting. In pruning away roots, always let them be finished by a clear cut, and in a sloping direction. When trees are planted at an advanced season in the spring of the year, it will be necessary to prune the tops; and if trees are removed that have been trained three or four years, and are not properly supplied with young wood, they must be cut down either wholly or partially, in order to obtair a sufficiency. In practising this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, always prune so as to have a leading shoot close below the cut, as it is very rare they will push a shoot below, unless there be a lead’ This attention is not so particularly required in the Pear, as such will generally push forth shoots, although no leading ones are left; but in all kinds, the younger the wood is, the more certainly are shoots to be produced. If a tree that has been under training for one or two years, should only have one strong, leading shoot, and two or three weaker ones which do not proceed from it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten the strong one, from which a handsome head may afterwards be formed. For further direc- tions as respects pruning or planting fruit-trees, the reader is referred to the succeeding articles on these subjects. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FRUIT. In order to assist the reader in making a judicious selection of fruit-trees, I have furnished a short description of such species and varieties as are in great repute for every good quality. Previous to making this selection, I carefully perused Prince’s Pomological Manual, Kenrick’s American Orchard- ist, Lindley’s Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden, and Manning’s Descriptive Catalogue of Fruits. Besides these im- portant guides, I had the select catalogues of different nursery- men before me, and have chosen such only as have been most 12 FRUIT-GARDENING. generally “commended. In doing this, I have had difficulties to contend with, of the nature of which none but those who have duly considered the subject can form any idea. The facility with which seedling plants are raised, and the paternal fondness with which people are apt to regard their own seed- lings, have occasioned hundreds of names to appear in the various catalogues, which tend not a little to swell the largc and increasing list of fruits. In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to the same variety ; consequently, some fruits appear in the different cata- logues under all the varied names; and the patience and labor necessarily requisite for ascertaining which are really distinct varieties, and which are most worthy of cultivation, are corre- spondingly great. To exemplify: Suppose from a catalogue of Pears the fol- lowing names should be selected by a person wishing to plant as many varieties in his orchard—namely, Brown Beurre, Beurre Gris, Beurre Rouge, Beurre Dore, Beurre d’ Anjou, Beurre d'Or, Beurre d’Ambleuse, Beurre d’ Amboise, Poire @ Amboise, Isambert, Red Beurre, Golden Beurre, Beurre du Roi, Waite Dorrnne, Doyenne Blanc, Doyenne, Beurre Blane, Bonne-ante, Saint Michael, Carlisle, Citron de Septembre, Kaiserbirne, Poire & court queue, Poire de Limon, Valencia, Poire de Neige, Poire de Seigneur, Poire Monsieur, White Beurre. Here is a list of twenty-nine kinds, as the purchaser supposes, but when the trees produce their fruit, he finds, to his great disappointment and mortification, that he has only two varieties, namely, the Brown Beurre and the White Doyenne. In making out the descriptive lists, I have generally adopted the names given in the catalogues of the most celebrated nur- serymen, as a heading; and have cansed the synonymes, or names by which the same variety is known, or has been called, to be printed in ¢éadics; thus, my lists of about four hundred varieties of the various kinds of fruit, will embrace what has FRUIT-GARDENING. 13a been deemed by some as different varieties, perhaps to the number of nearly two thousand. In preparing the following articles, the object has been to farnish information which would entertain as well as instruct the reader. Besides the authorities quoted, I have gleaned from those inexhaustible treasures to horticulturists, Loudon’s Encyclopedia of Plants, and that of Gardening; but on account of the brevity necessarily observed throughout this work, it has been found impracticable to give many entire extracts. Suffice it to say, that the historical facts are generally collected from these sources. TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT-TREES AND VINES. In training and pruning fruit-trees and vines, particular at- tention is required. To supply a tree with a sufficiency of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark and wood in an uninterrupted succession from the root to the extremities of the branches. Pruning, therefore, is useful to remedy any defect, as well as to take off superfluous wood, and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning may be performed at different seasons of the year, according to the kinds of fruit, which will be shown under each head as we proceed. In the spring or summer pruning, be careful not to destroy the germs of future fruits; but merely remove all unserviceable sprigs. In the winter season, make your selection from the wood-shoots of the preceding year; and keep those which appear the most healthy, and cut away those which seem redundant. Beginners had better prefer the spring, as the buds will then be a guide for them to go by. But this busi- ness must not be delayed too late in the season, as some kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned untime- ly. When the sap rises in Grape Vines, before the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and it is not easily stopped. When this happens, sear the place, and cover it with melted wax, or 14 FRUIT-GARDENING, with warm pitch spread upon a piece of bladder; or peel off the outside bark to some distance from the place, and then press into the pores of the wood a composition of pounded chalk and pitch, mixed to the consistence of putty. Vines will bleed in autumn as well as in spring, though not so copiously. The best preventive is timely or early pruning in the spring, and not pruning until the wood is thoroughly ripe in autumn. With respect to the manner in which vines, and some parti- cular kinds of trees, should be trained, opinions are at vari- ance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight and direct manner, others in a horizontal manner, and others again in a serpentine form, etc. If vines be trained on low walls or trel- lises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which from a main stem lateral branches are led out horizontally on each side. It has been remarked, that in order to be a good trainer of vines, a man must have some forethought, and be capable of making his selection as the plants shoot. He must predeter- mine how he shall prune, and where he shall cut at the end of the season; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to his mind. He has this more effectually in his power, with respect to the vine, than fruit-trees with fruit, on account of its rapid growth PRUNING THE VINE. In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud. Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt to weaken the shoot of next scason, and sometimes to prevent its vegetating at all; the buds being very susceptible of injury, on account of the soft and spongy nature of the wood. In cut- ting out old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping direction, and to smoothe the edges of the wood, in order to prevent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the old wood be carefully peeled off, observing not to injure the sound bark, and clear FRUIT-GARDENING. 15 the trellis of branches, leaves, and tendrils. Let the shoots and branches afterwards be regularly laid in, at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots that are expect- ed to bear next season. As to others, it is not so material how near the young shoots be placed to the old, even though they sometimes cross them. Choose strands of fresh matting, or packthread, to tie with; and observe to leave sufficient room for the swelling of the shoots and branches next season. Vines may be pruned too much as well as too little. There is nothing gained by training vines very high. A vine ten — SS Training a Vine Fan-Shaped. feet high will be as productive as one forty feet high. The illustration herewith given will furnish an idea of the manner of cutting off the old wood, at cc, and throwing all the sap into two vertical canes, aa. Or the tops may be cut off at 08, and the laterals trained horizontally at pleasure. L 16 FRUIT-GARDENING. PRUNING FRUIT-TREES. By attending to the proper training of fruit-trees, every advantage is promoted; and by a judicious management in other respects, wood may not only be obtained, but preserved in every part of the tree, so that it will bear fruit to the very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the gar- dener, the benefit of the proprietor, and equally conducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees are young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a supply of bearing- wood in future years; for when this is neglected, and they become naked, it is some time before a supply, can be recover- ed. In shortening a branch, always take care to cut in a direction a little sloping; and the middle of all standard trees should be kept as open as possible. It is requisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be ragged, but clean; and in the operation be careful that the knife does not slip, so that another branch be cut or damaged. The general pruning of fruit-trees is indifferently performed by many persons, at any time from autumn to spring; and it may be so done without any great injury to them, provided mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and the wood be well ripened. Although it may be advantageous to prune trees early in the winter, when the wood is well ripened, yet, when the wood is green and the buds have not arrived at a mature state, it is requisite in such cases to defer pruning until spring ; taking care, however, that it is performed before the moving of the sap. The necessity of this arises from the circum- stance that as the wood is not ripened in autumn, the sap is then in an active state, and will continue so until the frost causes it to become stagnant; and if the shoots were shorten- ed while the sap was in motion, the buds would be consider- ably injured, and the tree weakened. Such unripe shoots are also more liable to suffer by the severity of winter; and wnen the pruning is deferred until spring, all such parts as may FRUIT-G ARDENING. 1? ‘have been affected by the weather can be removed to the extent to which the damage has been sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood in the autumn would be injz rious, so it frequently is when it is done during winter; and the more so according to its severity ; because, whenever a cut is made on such green wood, the frost generally affects it, as the sap is not so dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able to resist the intense cold. DIFFERENT MODES OF TRAINING. Whatever method is adopted in training trees, care should be taken to keep the two sides as nearly equal as possible; this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the fan or horizontal method. For espalier trees, the horizontal method has many advantages over any other. The small compass within which the trees are obliged to be kept, requires such a direction for the branches, in order to make them fruitful; and were very high trellises formed, so as to admit of the trees being trained in the fan method, such would be very objectionable, by reason of the shade they would cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the benefit of a warmer temperature, which those less elevated Teceive. As some young gardeners may not know what is meant by espaliers, it may be uecessary to explain that espaliers are hedges of fruit-trees which are trained up regularly to a frame or trellis of wood-work; they produce large fruit plen- tifully, without taking up much room, and may be planted in the Kitchen-Garden without much inconvenience to its other products. For espalier fruit-trees in the open ground, a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of common stakes or poles, or of regular joinery work, according to taste or fancy. Standard trees should be pruned low. An excellent mode of pruning is to imitate the cherry-tree, which sends a stem 18 FRUIT-GARDENING. straight upwards, with boughs projecting laterally, on every side, at distances of two or three feet apart. The boughs also should have limbs at suitable distances apart. All the branches should not be cut off the limbs for several feet from the body of the tree, as many of our apple-orchards have been pruned. The entire area occupied by the branches should be well filled up with fruit-producing limbs. In order to do this, one must commence pruning trees when they are young, and prune a little every season, as the branches require. It is decidedly objectionable to allow trees of any kind to grow unpruned for several years, and then give them a severe prun- ing. Some trees need but little pruning; while others require more or less every year. BEST TOOLS FOR PRUNING. The implements employed in pruning, and the manner of using them, are matters of moment. If the operation is com- menced when the tree is young, and judiciously followed up, a good knife, a small saw, a mallet, and a chisel fixed on a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the branches, are all the tools that are required. A darge saw will be occasionally wanted; but an axe or hatchet should never be employed, as they fracture the wood, bruise and tear the bark, and disfigure the tree. BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT-TREES. Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are operations that equally depend for their success upon the property that buds possess of shooting roots downward, and stems upward; but in these practices, the roots strike between the bark and wood of the stock, instead of into the earth, and form new layers of FRUIT-GARDENING. 19 wood, instead of subterranean fibres. The success of such practices, however, depends upon other causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings. It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between the scion and the stock so that when the descending fibres of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of the stock, they may not be liable to subsequent separation. No one can have studied the economy of the vegetable kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in contact with each other. To bud trees, let the following method be adopted: Pro- cure a knife which has a thin blade; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the buds can be easily inserted. Have some good strong bass in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. When all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stock transversely, and from the middle of this cut make another downward, at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in the form of a T; then from one of your sprigs proceed with expedition to take off a bud. This is effected as follows: Insert the knife a little more than half an inch below the bud or eye, force it into the wood, drawing it under the bud, and cut the piece off across the shoot; then immediately let that part of the wood which was cut off with the bud be separated from it, which may be readily done with the knife, by placing the point of it between the bark and wood at one end, and, holding the bark in one hand, pull off the woody part with the other, which will readily come from the bark if the tree from which it was taken be in a vigorous condition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the bud remains perfect ; if there is no hole in it, let it be immediately inserted into the stock, which is done by raising with the handle of your knife the bark of the stock downward on each side from the crosscut, and thrusting the bud in between the bark and the wood, applying it as close as possible. As soon as the bud 20 FRUIT-GARDENING. is put into its place, bind it securely with bass, beginning a little below the cut and proceeding upward till you are above the crosscut, taking care to miss the eye of the bud, just so that it may be seen through the bandage of the bass. About a week or ten days after the stocks have been budded, they should be examined, when such as have united will appear fresh and full, and those that have not taken will appear de- cayed. In the former case the bandage may be left off, and in the latter case, the stock may be budded in another place, pro- vided the first operation was done in the month of July or early in August, as these are the two most preferable months for budding fruit-trees in general. Budding is, however, often attended with success, if done early in September. SCALLOP-BUDDING is performed by cutting from a small stock a thin narrow scal- lop of wood about an inch in length, and taking from a twig a thin scallop of wood of the same length; this is instantly applied, and fitted perfectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly bound with wet bass mat- ting. This may be performed in the spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the month of July. The French prac- tise this mode on Roses. GRAFTING. Grafting is the taking a shoot from one tree and inserting it into another in such a manner that both may unite closely and become one tree. These shoots are called scions or grafts, and in the choice of them and the mode of preparing some de- scriptions of stocks, the following hints will be useful : Those scions are best which are taken from the lateral or FRUIT-GARDENING. 21 honzontal, rather than from the strong perpendicular shoots, The shoots of Apples, etc., should be taken from healthy trees late in autumn, or before the buds begin to swell in the spring, and buried half of their length in the ground or in a cool and dry cellar, there to remain until the season of grafting. For some descriptions of trees the stocks are beaded down near to the ground. In nurseries, Apples intended for stand- ards are generally grafted about nine inches high only, allow- ing them to grow up standard high, and forming their heads upon the second year’s shoots. In cider countries, the stock is generally trained up standard high; and when grown sufli- ciently large for the purpose, it is grafted at the height intended for the head of the tree. There are various methods of grafting, but the following are those most generally practised. CLEFT-GRAFTING. This mode of grafting is generally practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter, and may be performed in the following manner: Let the head of the stock be carefully sawed off where the limb is free from knots, and the end pared smooth. Then with a thin knife, split down-the stock through the centre to the depth of about two inches, and insert a chisel to keep it open for the reception of the scion, which must be prepared in the form of a wedge, with one or two buds in the upper part, and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion and of the stock may both exactly meet. Large stocks require two scions, one on each side, and some- times four are inserted. When done, tie them firmly together with bass, and then cover the grafted part with well-prepared clay, in an oval form, and close it securely. These directions apply particularly to small limbs or small trees, Those stocks that will pinch the grafts sufficiently tight as soon as the chisel is taken out, do not require any binding. When scions are set in large stocks, it is sometimes necessary 22 FRUIT-GARDENING. to drive in a small wooden wedge to prevent the split stock from crushing the scion. A little caution must be exercised on this subject, to have the stock pinch sufficiently tight to hold the scions securely in the desired position, else they will not live. And if the scion be crushed by too severe pressure, it cannot be expected to live. SIDE-GRAFTING. This mode is sometimes practised on those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are two ways in which it may be performed. lst. The scion may be prepared in the same manner as for splice-grafting, and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping; the scion being then adjust- ed as carefully as possible, it must be bound on and covered with clay. 2d. The scion being cut sloping, a crosscut is to be made in the side of the tree on the top of a perpendicular slit; the bark of a tree above the crosscut must be pared down slanting to the wood, and the bark raised as in budding; the scion being then inserted, it must be bound fast, and covered with clay. SPLICE OR WHIP-GRAFTING. This mode is often practised on small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion and stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should consist of young wood of the former year’s growth, may be cut to the length of about four inches, This and the stock are each to be cut sloping for an inch or more, and tongued. Tonguing consists in cutting a slit in the mid- dle of the slope of the stock downward, and a corresponding slit in the scion upward; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides, if not both, shall perfectly coincide, and then securely bound with bass matting and covered with grafting- clay or composition. As soon as the scion and stock are com pletely united, the bass string may be removed. FRUIT-GARDENING, 23 SADDLE-GRAFTING, The celebrated Mr. Knight practised this mode of grafting on very small stocks. The upper part of the stock is prepared in the form of a wedge, by two sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by slitting it upward, and paring out the middle part on each side to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal size, the adjustment may be made perfect ; but if unequal, one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a string of bass matting, and covered with compo- sition or clay; but the string must be removed as soon as a nerfect union has taken place. ROOT-GRAFTING. 24 FRUIT-GARDENING. This operation is often performed on Grape-vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual mode of cleft-grafting. It is also performed on portions or pieces of root where suita- ble stocks are scarce. The illustration on page twenty-three represents the usual mode of root-grafting. The lines exe) represent the surface of the ground. The main thing in all kinds of grafting, is to made a “ close fit” between the stock and the scion, GRAFTING BY APPROACH. The trees or shrubs to be grafted in this mode must be growing very near to those which are to furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each tree, which are thus to be united, must be pared with a long sloping cut of several inches, nearly to the centre; and the parts of each tree thus prepared are to be brought together, and finally secured by a bandage of matting, so that the bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then be covered with clay or compo- sition; and when a complete union has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. It may be here observed that, as young grafted trees in the nursery progress in growth, the lower side-limbs should be gradually shortened, but not suddenly close-pruned, as they are essential for a time to strengthen the trunks, and to the up- right and perfect formation of the tree. THE BEST TIME TO GRAFT. The best time to graft Apple and Pear-trees is, when they are in blossom. At that time, sap flows most abundantly, wounds heal more readily, and the stock and scion are far more likely to unite than when the sap is not so abundant. I have always heard it remarked that Cherry-trees should be grafted before the buds begin to swell. But I have always had far FRUIT-GARDENING. 25 better success with scions that were put in when the trees were about to blossom, than with the grafts that were set very carly or before the growing season had commenced. The most im- portant consideration is to have good grafts. More scions fail on account of having been injured by being improperly kept than from any other cause. When beginners prepare the stocks and dress off the ends of the scions with a knife, the cut should be made with a sharp instrument, very true and smooth, and not too sharp- pointed nor too blunt, neither should the end of the scion be too thin nor too thick. If too thin, when the cleft stock closes on it, the scion will be crushed so that it cannot live. Tf the scion be too thick, the sharpened end will not fit the cleft sufficiently well for the sap to circulate from the stock santo the scion. Whatever be the form of the scion, or the shape of the stock, the insice bark of each must be placed together, so that the sap from the stock may pass readily into the scion. GRAFTING-CLAY AND WAX. The British Parliament gave Mr. Forsyth avaluable premium for the following important directions for making a composi- tion for curing diseases, defects, and injuries in all kinds of fruit and forest trees, and the method of preparing the trees, and laying on the composition : Take one bushel of fresh cow-dung, half a bushel of lime rubbish of old buildings (that from the ceilings of rooms is preferable), half a bushel of wood-ashes, and a sixteenth part of a bushel of pit or river sand; the three last articles are to be sifted fine before they are mixed; then work them well together with a spade, and afterwards with a wooden beater, until the stuff is very smooth, like fine plaster used for ceilings of rooms. The composition being thus made, care must be taken to prepare the tree properly for its application, by cutting away 26 FRUIT-GARDENING. all the dead, decayed, and injured part, till you come at the fresh sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood very smooth, and rounding off the edges of the bark with a draw-knife or other instrument. Then lay on the plaster about an eighth of an inch thick, all over the part where the wood or bark has been so cut away, finishing off the edges as thin as possible. Then take a quantity of dry powder of wood-ashes mixed with a sixth part of the same quantity of the ashes of burnt bones; put it into a tin box with holes in the top, and shake the powder on the surface of the plaster till the whole is covered with it, letting it remain for half an hour to absorb the mois- ture; then apply more powder, rubbing it on gently with the hand, and repeating the application of the powder till the whole plaster becomes a dry, smooth surface. If any of the composition be left for a future occasion, it should be kept in a tub or other vessel, and urine poured on it 30 as to cover the surface ; otherwise the atmosphere will greatly cmjure the efficacy of the application. When lime-rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got, take pounded chalk or com- mon lime, ‘after having been slaked a month at least. As the growth of the trees will gradually affect the plaster, by raising up its edges next the bark, care should be taken, when that happens, to rub it over with the finger when occasion may require (which is best done when moistened by rain), that the plaster may be kept whole, to prevent the air and wet pene- trating into the wound. As the best way of using the composition is found, by ex- perience, to be in a liquid state, it must therefore be reduced to the consistence of a pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a sufficient quantity of urine and soapsuds, and laid on with a painter’s brush. The powder of wood-ashes and burned bones is to be applied as before directed, patting it down with the hand. FRUIT-GARDENING. 37 GRAFTING-CEMENT. Another way of making grafting-wax is to melt equal parts of resin, beeswax, and tallow together. If it be.so hard that it cannot be worked with the hands, melt it again and add more tallow. To make it ha der, add more resin. This will be found an excellent coating for wounds made by cutting off ~* limbs of trees. After a tree is pruned, melt the wax in a me tallic vessel, but not have it burning hot; then apply it in a liquid state to the wounds with a swab or paint brush. Some persons pour the composition into cold water, and as it hard- ens take it out and work it up with the hands until it attains a due consisteuce. It may be spread on brown paper, whick being cut into strips of suitable size, is quickly applied, and in cool weather may be warmed by the breath, so as to become adhesive. Grafting-clay may be made in the following manner: Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free from litter, cow manure, and good stiff clay; add to this a portion of hair, and work it together in the same manner as masons mix their mortar. It should be well beaten and incorporated several days before it is required to be used. PROCURING IMPROVED VARIETIES OF FRUIT. In planting seed for the purpose of procuring improved varieties, care should be taken not only that the seed be selected from the finest existing kinds, but also that the most handsomé, the largest, and the most perfectly ripened speci- mens should be those that supply the seed. A seedling plant will always partake more or less of the character of its parent, the qualities of which are concentrated in the embryo, when it has arrived at full maturity. As this subject is discussed in 28 FRUIT-GARDENING. another part of this work, I shall direct the reader’s attention to the operation of Cross-Fertilization. This is effected by the action of the pollen of one plant upon the stigma of another. The nature of this action is highly curious. Pollen consists of extremely minute hollow balls or bodies ; their cavity is filled with fluid, in which swim particles of a figure varying from spherical to oblong, and bav- ing an apparently spontaneous motion. The stigma is com- posed of very lax tissue, the intercellular passages of which have a greater diameter than the moving particles of the pollen. When a grain of pollen comes in contact with the stigma, it bursts, and discharges its contents among the lax tissues upon which it has fallen, The moving particles de- scend through the tissues of the style, until one, or sometimes more, of them find their way, by routes especially destined by nature for this service, into a little opening in the integuments of the ovulum or young seed. Once deposited there, the par- ticle swells, increases gradually in size, separates into radicle and cotyledons, and finally becomes the embryo,—the part which is to give birth, when the seed is sown, to a new indi- vidual. Such being the mode in which the pollen influences the stigma, and subsequently the sced, a practical consequence of great importance necessarily follows, viz. that in all cases of cross-fertilization, the new variety will take chiefly after its polliniferous or male parent; and that at the same time it will acquire some of the constitutional peculiarities of its mother. Thus the male parent of the Downton Strawberry was the Old Black, the female a kind of Scarlet. In Coe’s Golden Drop Plum, the father was the Yellow Magnum Bonum, the mother the Green Gage; and in the Elton Cherry, the White Heart was the male parent, and the Graffion the female. The limits within which experiments of this kind must be vonfined are, however, narrow. It seems that cross fertiliza- tion will not take place at all, or very rarely, between different species, unless these species are nearly related to each other: and that the offspring of two distinct species is itself sterile, or FRUIT-GARDENING. 29 if it possesses the power of multiplying itself by seed, its pro- geny returns back to the state of one or other of its parents. Hence it seldom or never has happened that domesticated fruits have had such an origin. We have no varieties raised hetween the Apple and the Pear, or the Plum and Cherry, or the Gooseberry and the Currant. On the other hand, new varieties obtained by the intermixture of two preéxisting varieties are not less prolific; but, on the contrary, often more so than either of their parents: witness the numerous sorts of Flemish Pears which have been raised by cross fertilization from bad bearers within the last thirty years, and which are the most prolific trees with which gardeners are acquainted. Wit- ness also Mr. Knight's Cherries, raised between the May Duke and the Graffion, and the Coe’s Plum already mentioned. It is therefore to the intermixture of the most valuable existing varieties of fruit that gardeners should trust for the ameliora- tion of their stock. By this operation the Pears that are in eating in the spring have been rendered as delicious and as fertile as those of the autumn; and there is no apparent reason wLy those very early, but worthless sorts, such as the Muscat Robert, which usher in the scason of Pears, should not be brought to a similar state of perfection. It is an indubitable fact that all our fruits, without excep- tion, have been so much ameliorated by various circumstances, that they no longer bear any resemblance in respect of quality to their original. Who, for instance, would recognise the wild parent of the Green Gage Plum in the austere Sloe, or that of the delicious Pippin Apples in the worthless acid Crab ? Or, what resemblance can be traced between our famous Beurre Pears, whose flesh is so succulent, rich, and melting, and that hard, stony, astringent fruit, which even birds and animals refuse to eat? Yet these are undoubted cases of improvement, resulting from time and skill patiently and constantly in action, But it would be of little service to mankind that the quality of any fruit should be improved, unless we adopt some efficient and certain mode of multiplying the individuals when ob 80 FRUIT-GARDENING. tained. Hence there are two great objects which the cult- vator should aim at, viz. Amelioration and Propagation. LINDLEY’S MODE OF CROSS-FERTILIZATION. Lindley recommends the oyfration of cross-fertilization to be performed early in the morning of a dry day; about sunrise is a good time to begin, and before the blossom is entirely expanded. The pollen being at that time humid, is closely attached to the anthers. The blossoms must be carefully opened and the anthers extracted by delicate scissors, care being taken not to wound the filaments, nor any other part of the flower. This being done, the matured pollen from another variety must be carefully placed on the blossom which it is intended to fertilize, and from which the anthers have been extracted; and this operation must be repeated twice or three times in the course of the day. By shaking the blos- som over a sheet of white paper, the time when it is perfectly matured will be ascertained. It is necessary to protect the prepared blossom from bees and other insects with thin book- muslin, or gauze, till a swelling is perceived in the germ. When the process has been successful, the pollen which has been placed on the stigma becomes so attached that it cannot be removed with a hair pencil. It changes form and color, and soon disappears, and the blossom will soon wither and fade, But when the process has been imperfect, the pollen is easily detached from the stigma, its appearance is unaltered, and it remains visible with the duration of the flower, which will continue a long time. FRUIT-GARDENING, 3i1 GENERAL SUGGESTIONS ABOUT PRUNING. The Gard’ner at work, ere the birds pipe a tune, Each fruit-tree inspects, then commences to prune; The insects destroying, on branches or root, That injare the blossom, or live in the fruit. As the season for pruning fruit-trees and vines commences in the various parts of our country at different periods, accord- ing to the climate, I would submit a few general remarks on the subject, with a view to prepare the gardener for the per- formance of the work in a skilful manner, and at the proper season; for be it remembered that untimely or injudicious pruning may produce injury instead of benefit, and in many cases defeat the real object of the operation. Having given ample directions for the cultivation of the various species of fruit, I would recommend the novice to peruse every article before he enters upon the work of the garden. He will there discover that no single rule will apply to every kind of fruit; jirst, because the mode of bearing is different in almost every distinct species; secondly, because the sap rises earlier and continues longer in the branches of some species than in others; and thirdly, because some trees, as the Plum for instance, are apt to gum if pruned too soon in the sea- son, and the grape-vine to bleed if delayed too long. For the above, and other reasons that may be given, the gardener should examine all his fruit-trees frequently, with his imple- tents at hand ; and if circumstances will not admit of a general pruning, he may cut off dead branches, and clear trees from moss and canker, also search for the nests of insects, and destroy them while in a torpid state. This will assist the natural efforts of the trees in casting off the crude and undi- gested juices, which, if confined in them, will in a short time destroy them, or some of their branches. In pruning all descriptions of trees, some general rules may be observed. In cutting out defective branches, prune close to the healthy wood, and also shorten such shoots as have M 33 FRUIT-GARDENING. been injured by the winter, to the full extent, or even a few inches beyond, where damage has been sustained. The limbs of young and thrifty trees should not be too closely pruned, because this would occasion more lateral shoots to put forth than is beneficial to the tree; which, if not rubbed off in the summer while quite young, and as it were herbaceous, will form crowded branches, which may not yield good fruit. In doing this disbudding, however, care must be taken to leave shoots in a suitable direction, sufficient for the formation of an open and handsome head to the tree, according to its kind. It may be observed, further, that in the event of young trees, taken from the nursery, being deficient in fibrous roots, as is sometimes the case, close pruning may be necessary to main- tain a proper equilibrium between the roots and the head; but it should be borne in mind that foliage is as essential to the maintenance of the roots as roots are necessary to the promotion of the growth of the head; because the secretion of plants being formed in leaves, it follows that secretions can- not take place if leaf-buds are destroyed. INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT-TREES ARE LIABLE. Much may be written relative to the varioas diseases to which fruit-trees are liable, and also to the prevention and destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects which frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our garden. The preventive operations are those of the best culture. Autumn ploughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the larve of bugs, beetles, etc., to the intense frost of our winters, and the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, etc., are beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete destruction effected, by the use of soapsuds, lye, tar, turpentine, sulpbur, FRUIT-GARDENING. 33 pepper, soot, decoction of elder, walnut leaves, tobacco, ana other bitter and acrid substances; but perhaps the most effectual way of keeping some of the most pernicious kinds ot insects under, is to gather up such fruit as may fall from the trees before the insects have an opportunity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter. Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavorable situa- tions, they often become diseased. When this happens, the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees clean by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do, they may he headed down, or removed to a better situation. Barrenness and disease are generally produced by the bad qualities of the earth and air, by a want of water, or by the inroads of insects, These incidents generally show themselves in the early part of the year. Leaves and shoots of any color but the natural green; curled and ragged leaves; branches in a decaying state ; shoots growing from the roots instead of from the stem or trunk; the stem diseased in its bark; the gum oozing from various parts thereof—are all proofs of the existence of disease. The peach-tree is subject to a disease called the yellows; and the discolored leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the worms which so frequently attack the roots. Where these are found, they may be removed by a knife or chisel. But if it should appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to prevent other trees from being infected. WASH FOR FRUIT-TREES. The following compositions have been known to protect fruit-trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by being used as a wash to the trees immediately after pruning. The constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger mixture of ingredients than others; but the proportions, as hereafter 84 FRUIT-GARDENING. described, will not be injurious to any, but will be effectual mm the destruction of the larva of insects. For Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach-Trees.—To eight gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper. For Apple, Cherry, Pear, and Plum-Trees.—To four gal- lons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of com- mon sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of black pepper. For Figs and Vines—To four gallons of water add half a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a quarter of an ounce of black pepper. All these ingredients must be boiled tugether for twenty minutes at least, and when ina lukewarm state, applied to the bark of the trees with a suitable brush. For the destruction of the Aphis which frequently attacks the Apple, as well as other fruit-trees while young, an appli- cation of diluted whale-oil soap to the leaves and branches has been found very efficacious. If whale-oil soap be applied too frecly, it may injure young trees or bushes, and sometimes destroy them. ; CHECKING THE RAVAGES OF THE CURCULIO. The most destructive enemy to our fruit is the Curculio, which passes the winter in the earth in a chrysalis state, and if suffered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will be ready to commence its attacks at about the time the blossoms appear on our fruit-trees. The eggs are deposited in the Apple, Pear, and also all stone fruit, at a very early stage of their growth, which soon hatch, and small maggots are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop off prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this fruit be gathered up, or immedi. ately devoured by hogs, geese, or other animals, a check may FRUIT-GARDENING. 85 be put to their ravages in succeeding years; but if suffered to remain on the ground, they will supply food to myriads of their destructive race, which may not be so easily extirpated. The most effectual way of preventing the operations of the Curculio is, to spread sheets of cloth beneath the trees and jar them off, by a sharp blow with a mallet against the end of a large iron spike, or pin driven into the body of the tree, wher the insects will fall from the trees on the sheets, and may be turned into a vessel of hot water and destroyed. THE CANKER-WORM. The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the destruction of which many experiments have been tried. Some apply bandages around the body of the tree, smeared over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females in their ascent to the tree; but as these tormentors are frequently on the move from November to the end of June, this must be a very tedious as well as uncertain process. As this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk of the tree, and not more than three or four inches from the surface of the earth, good culture, and a moderate use of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingredient, is the most likely way to destroy them. Every worm should be destroyed, whenever they appear, by crushing, when they are not so numerous as to render it im- practicable. 38 FRUIT-GARDENING. THE BARK-LOUSE. The bark-louse is another pernicious insect. They resemble blisters, and are so near the color of the bark as to be imper- ceptible. They often prove fatal to the Appletree, by pre- venting the circulation of the sap. These insects may be con- quered by washing the trees with soapsuds, tobacco-water, lime-water, or a wash may be made of soapy water, salt, and lime, thickened to the consistency of cream or paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with a brush to the trunk and limbs of the trees in May or early in June, and the cracks in the bark should be completely covered. THE APPLE-TREE BORER. The Apple-tree borer is said to deposit its eggs beneath the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to be found in the spring of the year by digging round the tree and clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken out with a knife or gouge, and destroyed. After the worms are removed the wounds should be covered over with grafting-clay and wood-ashes mixed, and the earth then returned to the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayers’ mortar early in the spring around the base of the tree, so as to cover the part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks. There is no effectual way of preventing the borer working in trees, to a certain extent. But, by examining the trees every week, the borers may be cut out before they have entered the wood beyond the reach of a penknife. Young trees that are only a few years. old are far more liable to be destroyed by the borer than old trees having a thick, hard, and tough bark, Borers like a tender bark to work in. FRUIT-GARDENING. 37 VALUE OF WOOD-ASHES FOR FRUIT-TREES, If all agriculturists and horticulturists were to offer an in- ducement to the inhabitants of large cities to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote for many kinds of insects; and our citizens would be at less risk from fire, by having a brick vault on their premises for safely keeping them. In England, a private dwelling is not considered complete with- out an ash-vault; and a good farmer would dispense with his barn rather than be destitute of an ash-house. I have known farmers to supply the cottagers with as much peat as they could burn, on condition of their saving them the ashes; and there are some that will keep men under pay throughout the year burning peat for the same purpose; and anything that has passed the fire is so valuable, that a chimney-sweep will frequently clean chimneys for the sake of the soot, which is conveyed miles into the country, and sold at a price suffi- cient to reward the collectors, besides paying all expenses ; even the housekeepers’ ashes in cities is a marketable article at all times, bringing from ten to twenty-five cents per bushel when kept dry and clean; and a guinea a load was formerly the common price in the villages of Berkshire and Hampshire. While on this subject, I would urge the importance of a spring dressing of ashes. If cultivators were to prepare turfs from tanners’ bark, peat-earth, coal-dust mixed with clay, cow-dung, etc., and get them dried in the summer season, these, by being preserved through the winter, may be burned around fruit- orchards while the trees are in blossom ; and if the fires are pro- perly managed, a smoke may be kept up by heaping on damp litter every night; this will prove pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, and the ashes being spread on the ground, will serve as a means of destruction to others. An orchard thus managed every year, will need no other manure. The 38 FRUIT-GARDENING. smoking should be effected first on one side of the plantation, and afterwards on the other, or heaps may be prepared in different parts of the orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may serve to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I know a gardener in the neighborhood of New York who saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after hav- ing been used as a covering for his Spinach; and I have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent remedy for pro- tecting fruit-trees from insects, especially if some coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The damper the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will create ; and if a little tar, pitch, sulphur, or other pernicious combustible be sprinkled among them, it will be beneficial. Now I would ask—Howis it that ashes are not as valuable to the farmers here as they are in Europe? The extreme heat of the summer must certainly engender insects in equal, if not greater proportions; and as respects manure, it must be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country than it is in the densely peopled countries of Europe. Perhaps some may answer, that ashes are already used by our cultivators to a considerable extent; but I would remind such, that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weather (as in our city), they lose their virtue, so that a load may not be worth more than a bushel would be, if kept dry and clean. THE SITUATION OF AN ORCHARD AND THE SOIL The situation of an Orchard or Fruit-Garden should be one that has the advantage of a free circulation of air, and is ex- posed to the south, with a slight inclination to the east and south-west. When the situation is low and close, the trees are very liable to become mossy, which always injures them, by FRUIT-GARDENING. 388 ciosing up the pores of the wood; they are also more liable to be affected by blight. Although having an orchard closely pent up by trees, etc., is injurious, nevertheless a screen of forest-trees, at such a distance from the fruit-trees as that the latter will not be shaded by them, is of very great service in protecting the trees in spring from severe cold winds. A good strong loamy soil, not too retentive of moisture, to the depth of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable fur an’ orchard. Great attention must be paid to the sub-stratum, as the ground must be well drained; for if the top soil be ever so good, and the bottom wet, it is very rarely the case that the trees prosper many years; they soon begin to be diseased and goto decay. As it is so indispensably necessary to the suc- cess of fruit-trees that the bottom should be dry, if it is not naturally so, it must be made so by judicious draining. DRAINING ORCHARDS. When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by draixing, it must be done some time before the trees are planted. In performing this work the ground must be trenched, and when the trench is open, stone or brick-bats, etc., must be laid over the bottom to the thickness of six inches, a little coal-ashes or small gravel must be sprinkled over the top of the stones, etc., and then the surface gently rolled. Drains may also be made in different directions, so that any excess of moisture can be taken entirely away from the ground. If ditches be made between the rows of trees three feet deep, and tiles laid in them, and the hard subsoil returned on the tiles, and trod down well, as it is shovelled in the ditch, the roots of trees will not be very likely to obstruct the water passages, Such drains are better than those filled with stone, ov any other material. 40 FRUIT-GARDENING, IMPROVING SOILS FOR FRUIT-TREES. It is well known to most cultivators that exposure of soils to the atmosphere greatly improves them, as is experienced by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff and stubborn, small gravel, sand, coal-ashes, lime, light animal and vegetable manure, and other light composts, are very appropriate sub- stances to be applied, and will, if carefully managed and well worked into the ground, soon bring it into a proper condition for most purposes. Previous to laying out an orchard or fruit-garden, the soil should be manured and pulverized to a great depth. It should be made sweet, that the nutriment which the roots receive may be wholesome ; free, that they may be at full liberty to range in quest of it; and rich, that there may be no defect in food. If orchards are made from meadows or pasture lands, the ground should be improved as much as possible by manuring, trenching, ploughing, ete. If this is not done to its full extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in width along where the fruit-trees are to be planted, and at the time of planting let the holes be dug somewhat larger than is sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sufficient depth to allow of a foot of rich and well-pulverized mould to be thrown in before the trees are planted. HOW TO TRANSPLANT TREES. In transplanting trees, they should not be placed more than an inch or two deeper than they were in the nursery-bed, and the earth intended for filling in should be enriched and well pulverized by mixing in sume good old manure; and if any FRUIT-GARDENING. 41 leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potato tops, or other refuse of a farm are attainable, let such be used around the trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized mould is admitted among the fine roots. The trees in planting should be kept at ease, and several times shaken, so as to cause an equal distri- bution of the finer particles of earth to be connected with the small fibres of the roots; and when completely levelled, let the ground be well trodden down and moderately watered, which should be repeated occasionally after spring planting, if the weather should prove dry. In transplanting trees, care should be taken that the collar, or that part from which emanate the main roots, be not inserted too deep in the soil, as this injures the bark, and consequently impedes the natural circulation of the juices. A medium-sized tree may be planted one inch deeper than it was in the nursery-bed, and the largest should not exceed two or three inches. Newly-planted trees should be watered in dry, hot weather ; an occasional hoeing around them will also be beneficial; but care must be taken not to injure the roots. As some difference of opinion exists among practical men as to the best time for planting fruit-trees, the following extract from Mr. Prince’s Treatise on Horticulture is submitted: TRANSPLANTING IN SPRING vs. AUTUMN. Spring is the season when we find the most pleasure in making our rural improvements, and from this circumstance probably it has become the general season for planting trees; but experience has proved autumn-planting to be the most successful, especially in those parts of the United States which are subject to droughts, as trees planted in autumn suffer little or none from drought, when those set out in spring often perish in consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with regard to those fruits that have been originally brought from warmer climates, 42. FRUIT-GARDENING. such-as the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which aré natives of Persia, Armenia, etc., it is necessary for us to consult the operations of climate also; and, from a consideration of those attendant circumstances, I have come to the following conclusions: In localities south of New York, autumn planting is preferable only for the Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Quince, and all other trees of northern latitude; whereas, the spring is to be preferred for the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which, for the reasons before stated, might, during severe winters, suffer from the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean to assert that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured by the winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the least affected. Many gentlemen, however, of excellent judgment, make their plantations in the autumn, which only serves to prove that even in the most intelligent minds a diversity of opinion exists. . HEELING-IN TREES AND PROTECTING THEIR ROOTS. As soon as the trees arrive at the place where they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated ground, the bundles unpacked, the roots well wetted, and immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to make the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to leave vacancies for the admission of air to dry the roots, it having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees the first year after trans- planting depends much on the fine fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry from the time they are taken up until they are replanted. Their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the subsequent management on their arrival at the place of destination; for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees are carelessly exposed to FRUIT-GARDENING. 43 drying winds, the young fibres of the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all, cannot thrive the first season, as they can receive little or no nourishment until these fibres are replaced. When trees are carried from the nursery to the orchard, if they are out of the ground in the wind and sunshine half an hour, the roots should be protected. Otherwise, all the small ones will lose their vitality. When trees or vines are carried only a few miles, and are out of the ground only one hour, the roots should be dipped in thin mud or clay to protect them from drying winds. The accompanying illustration is a fair representation of the roots of a fruit-tree before the roots have been disturbed. ‘When trees are dug up in the usual manner, the roots are all cut off, as represented by the dotted lines 6 6, which is suffi- cient to destroy the vitality of any tree. It is highly import- ant to dig up the entire roots, if possible, when trees are removed. The accompanying illustrations of trees represent the appearance of trees before and after the tops have been pruned, at the time of transplanting. It is always better to remove a 44 FRUIT-GARDENING. good proportion of the branches, when most of the roots are _left in the ground. If all the top be left on, and most of the roots cut off, the tree will not thrive so well; and it is far more liable to die. KEEPING THE SOIL CLEAN. The ground where trees are planted must be kept cultivated, as young trees will not thrive if the grass be permitted to form asod around them; and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and free from grass for three or four feet distant around them ; and every autumn some well-rotted manure should be dug in around each tree; and every spring the bodies of the Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry-trees, and others that it is particularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water. This treatment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing the expectation of FRUIT-GARDENING. 45 any one who has not witnessed its effect. Should the first season after transplanting prove dry, regular watering will be necessary, as from neglect of proper attention in this respect many lose a large portion of their trees during a drought. PLANTING IN PROTECTED SITUATIONS. Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall it is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different aspects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a southern aspect, which will ripen earliest; next, against either an eastern or western ; and lastly, against a northern aspect; by observing this method with Dwarf Cherries, Plums, Goose- berries, Currants, etc., the fruit will ripen in succession, and thus a supply is considerably lengthened. The early blooming fruit- trees will sometimes need protection in warm aspects; for which arrangements may be made by keeping awning, matting, netting, etc., at hand, to shelter them in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense heat of the sun after a frosty night. This, with a sprinkling of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious consequences from slight frost. INGREDIENTS FOR A GOOD COMPOST. As all land possesses inorganic matter, which contains more or less of the elements comprised in the above remedies, and as some land contains more of one element than another, a judi- cious choice may be made from the above list, with a view to guit all the various kinds of soil; thus, in locations open to sea- breezes, which replenish the earth with salt, that article may be dispensed with, and another substituted; and on land which is 46 FRUIT-GARDENING. not susceptible of being improved by lime, verhaps the salt may be beneficial ; but it is presumed that in most cases a com- post made of all, or as many of the different articles as are * attainable, would produce a lasting benefit to land in general, by sowing, say at the rate of a bushel per acre, once a week, at those seasons of the year when it will avail most in the destruc- tion of reptiles and insects; and as the primary object of using the compost is to prevent our fruits from being destroyed, it would prove most effectual if sown out of a wagon, from which, in passing between the trees, the leaves could be dusted. The ingredients alluded to consist of ashes, charcoal-dust, plaster-of-Paris, tobacco-dust, lime, salt, soot, pepper, potash, ealtpetre, snuff, and sulphur. The proportions may be as follows: Of the first four articles, half a bushel of each; of the next three, a peck of each; and of the last five, say one pound of each; which will make together three bushels of compost. SCRAPING THE BODIES OF FRUIT-TREES. To destroy insects on the fruit-trees, and prevent them from creeping up and breeding on them, do as follows :— Take a strong knife with a sharp point, and a sharp hook- like iron made for the purpose ; with these scrape clean off all the moss and outside rough bark, and with the knife pick out or cut away the cankered parts of the bark and wood, in such a slanting manner that water cannot lodge in the sides of the stem of the trees. Having cleared the trees in this way, make up a mixture of lime, soot, and sulphur; put these ingredients into a pot or tub, pour boiling water upon them, ard with a stick stir and mix them well together. When this strong mixture becomes cold, and about the thickness of whitewash, dip a brush in the mixture, and apply it to the stems and large branches of the trees, dabbing it well into the hollow parts of the bark. FROUIT-GARDENING. 44 It will be found eminently more efficacious to apply snch liquid as hot as practicable. If it be boiling hot, by the time it is spread out on the cold bark of the tree it will be so cool that the bark will receive no injury in consequence of the liquid being hot. Such hot liquid will destroy the eggs of insects much guicker than when it is cold.—S. E. Topp. APPLE. Pommirr. Pyrus malus. And now we've arrived near the close of the year, Winter Apples and Cranberries bring up the rear, All are good of their kind, and we freely declare, Not one of the Frusis we would willingly spare. The Apple being so closely connected with our wants and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the catalogue of our fruits. The Apple-Orchard is, in truth, the vineyard of our country ; and the delicious beverage that can be obtained from some of the varieties of this excellent fruit being calculated to cheer the invalid, as well as to strengthen the healthy, entitles it to high consideration. I+ is one of our oldest and best fruits, and has become completely naturalized to our soil. None can be brought to so high a degree of perfection with so little trouble; and of no other are there so many excellent varieties in general cultivation, calculated for almost every soil, situation, and climate, which our country affurds. AGE OF APPLE-TREES, The Apple-tree is supposed by some to attain a great age. Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, that were a thousand years old, and were still highly prolific; but Knight considers two hundred years as the ordinary duration of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab-stock, and planted in a N 48 FRUIT-GARDENING, strong, tenacious soil. Speechly mentions a tree in an orchard at Burtonjoice, near Nottingham, about sixty years old, with branches extending from seven to nine yards round the bole, which in some seasons produced upwards of a hundred bushels of apples. The Romans had only twenty-two varieties in Pliny’s time. There are upwards of fifteen hundred now cultivated in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, under name. The catalogue of the Linnzan Botanic Garden at Flushing con- tains about four hundred; and one of our enterprising horticul- turists, Mr. William Coxe, of Burlington, New Jersey, enume- rated one hundred and thirty-three kinds cultivated in the United States some years ago. They are usually divided into dessert, baking, and cider fruits, The first, highly flavored ; the second, such as fall, or become mellow in baking or boiling ; and the third, austere, and generally fruit of small size. Besides this division, Apples are classed as pippins or seedlings, pear- mains or somewhat pear-shaped fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles or white-skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, and some are denominated burknots. The Apple may be propagated by layers; and many sorts by cuttings and budding; but the usual mode is by grafting on seedling stocks of two or three years’ growth, and for dwarfing, on stocks of the Quince or Paradise Apple. All the principal varieties are cultivated as standards in the orchard, and should be planted from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees, in order that the sun and air may have their due influence in maturing the fruit. Many of the dwarf kinds may be introduced into the Kitchen- Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf standards. An Apple- Orchard may be planted at any time after the trees are two years old from the graft; and as trees from young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any time within that period. Old Apple-trees may be grafted with superior varieties by being headed down to standard height. Most commonly, in FRUIT-GARDENING. 49: very old subjects, the branches only are cut within a foot or two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or cleft manner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the mode of bearing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, or short robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, which spring from the younger branches of two or more years’ growth, appearing at first at the extremity, and extending gradually to the side. The same bearing-branches and fruit-spurs continue many year. fruitful. PRUNING. As, from the mode of bearing, Apple-trees do not admit of shortening the general bearers, it should only be practised in extraordinary cases. If trees have not the most desirable form when three or four years old, they should be judiciously pruned to promote regular spreading branches. In annual pruning, the main branches should not be cut, unless in cases of decay ; but all superfluous cross branches and dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers removed. Espaliers require a summer and winter pruning. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. SUMMER FRUIT. American Summer Prarmaty, Karly Summer Pearmaon. This apple is of medium size and oblong form; its color bright red on the sunny side, and on the opposite side yellow, streaked or blotched with red; the flesh is very juicy, tender, fine flavored, and excellent. It ripens early in August, and is good either for the dessert or for cooking. Tree a good bearer. Bgvonr, Fruit of medium size, form round and regular; 60 FRUIT-GARDENING. the flesh yellow, high-flavored, and excellent; it ripens in July and August. “The tree bears well,” says Mr. Manning, “ and should be found in every good collection.” Earty Bouen, Sweet Bough. The size of this fruit varies from medium to large ; its color pale yellow; its form oblong ; its skin smooth; flesh tender, juicy, sweet, and excellent. Ripens early in August in some localities. Earty Crorron, or Irish Peach Appie. An Irish apple, of the middle size and flattish shape; of an olive green color, much variegated with red; has a rich saccharine flavor; is much esteemed for the dessert, and is excellent also as a sauce apple. Ripens in August. The tree grows well, and is not apt to canker. Earty Harvest, Prince's Yellow Harvest, Pomme @ été, July Pippin. A very early apple, of medium size; bright straw color; flesh white and tender; juice rich, lively, and very fine. The tree bears young, and makes a fine garden espalier; ripening its fruit in July and August. Earty Rep Juneatine, Red Margaret, Early Striped Juneating, Strawberry, Eve Apple of the Irish. Fruit below the middle size; skin greenish yellow, richly and closely streaked with deep red; flesh white, juicy, breaking, sub-acid, very rich and agreeable. Ripens early in August. Porter. This variety, says Mr. Manning, originated on the farm of the Rev. Samuel Porter, of Sherburne, Massachusetts. The fruit is large, of oblong shape; the skin a bright yellow, with a red blush; the flesh fine, sprightly, and agreeable. Ripens in September and October. Rep Asrracan. This beautiful apple is of medium size, and roundish ; the skin is dark red, covered with thick bloom like a plum; the flesh is white, tender, and somewhat acid. At perfection early in August. Rep Quarenpon. Devonshire Quarendon. Sack Apple. A much esteemed Devonshire apple; of medium size; skin of a uniform deep rich crimson, with numerous green dots inter. mixed; flesh of a brisk, pleasant, and peculiar flavor. A very FRUIT-GARDENING. 51 desirable dessert apple: from August to October; tree very productive. Summer Prerin, Pie Apple. This fruit, in size and shape, resembles the Fall Pippin; it differs in having a little more red on the sunny side, and in arriving at maturity about a fortnight earlier. It is a very popular apple in New Jersey. Summer Queen. A large oblong apple, striped with red on a yellow ground; the flesh is yellow, very high flavored, and excellent. The tree is of vigorous growth, says Mr. Manning, a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in August. Summer Ross, Harvest Apple. A very beautiful and excel- lent fruit, of moderate size and roundish form; the skin is yellow, striped and mottled with red; the flesh is sweet, juicy, and fine: in July and August; tree a great bearer. Wituiams’s Earry, Williams's Favorite Red. This apple originated in Roxbury, Mass.; it is of medium size; oblong form; the skin a bright and deep red; the flavor pleasant and agreeable. The tree is a great bearer, and its fruit commands a good price in the Boston markets: in August and Sep- tember. Beauty or Kent. Fruit very large, rounsish, but flat at the base; skin smooth, greenish-yellow, with stripes of pur- plish-red; flesh juicy, crisp, and tender, with an agreeable sub acid flavor: in October and November. Canapian Retette, Reinette du Canada blanche, Portugal Apple, Grosse Reinetie P Angleterre, Pomme du Caen, Mela Janurea, Fruit large, broad, and flat; skin greenish-yellow, tinged with brown; flesh yellowish-white, firm, juicy, and of a high sub-acid flavor: from December to March. Cuanpitzr. A native winter fruit of Pomfret, Connecticut. Large, roundish, slightly flattened; skin thickly streaked with dull red on a greenish-yellow ground with grey dots; flesh greenish-white, tender, juicy, and rich. Court or Wick Pieri, Fry’s Pippin, Golden Drop, Wood's Transparent Pippin, Phillips’ Reinetie, Knightwick Pippin. An English winter variety, well adapted for Canada 62 FRUIT-GARDENING. or Maine. Fruit below the middle size, regularly formed, roundish-ovate; skin greenish-yellow, mottled with orange and red at maturity; flesh pale yellow, tender, juicy, and high flavored. Durca Mienonne, Reinette Dorée, Pomme de Laak, Pater- noster Apple. A winter fruit, large, roundish; skin dull orange, streaked and mottled with red, dotted with russet, flesh crisp ; juice plentiful, with a delicious aromatic flavor. Easter Pippin, Claremont Pippin, Ironstone Pippin, Young’s Long Keeping, French Crab. Fruit middle size, some- what globular; skin deep green, shaded with a pale livid brown ; flesh very firm, and though not juicy, of a good, sub- acid flavor. This variety will keep sound two years. Hererorpsuire Pearmain, Winter Pearmain, Royal Pear- main, Royale d’ Angleterre. A fine winter dessert fruit above medium size, form oblong; skin russety-green, mottled with red, and dotted with greyish specks; flesh tender, with plea- sant aromatic flavor. Tree an abundant bearer. Lyscum, Osgood’s Favorite. A Massachusetts variety of merit. Fruit large, round; skin greenish-yellow, mottled with red; flesh fine grained, exceedingly mild and agreeable in flavor: in use from September to November. Lyman’s Pumpxin Sweer. A very large apple raised by Mr. S. Lyman, Manchester, Connecticut. Skin smooth, pale yellow ; flesh firm, sweet, juicy, and excellent for baking: in the autumn. The tree bears prodigious crops. Nortnery Spy. A native variety of the Spitzenberg family. Fruit large, conical, considerably ribbed ; skin smooth, yellow ground, nearly covered with rich dark red and purplish streaks! flesh yellowish-white, and of a rich, aromatic, sub- acid flavor: good from December to May. Pecr’s Preasant. This variety resembles the Yellow New- town Pippin, only it is larger; skin smooth, and when first gathered green, changing to yellow, with bright blush cheek and scattered grey dots; flesh yellowish, fine grained, juicy, and tender, with a delicious high aromatic flavor in winter. FRUIT-GARDENING. 53 Ross Nonparrit. A delicious Irish variety, approaching in flavor to some kinds of pear; fruit below medium size, round- ish ; skin covered with a thin mellow russet, faintly stained with red; flesh greenish-white, tender, and of a rich aromatic flavor: in perfection the end of October. Tree a profuse ‘bearer, and worthy of a place in every amateur’s garden. Summer Sweet Parapise. A Pennsylvania fruit of large size; round, a little flattened at both ends; skin rather thick, pale green, tinged with yellow, and sprinkled with large grey ‘dots; flesh tender, crisp, juicy, and of a sweet, rich, aromatic flavor: ripe in August and September. Sors or Wine, Rode Wyn Appel, Sapson, Sops in Wine. A handsome little autumn apple for the dessert ; skin smooth, crimson, covered with a delicate light bloom ; flesh white, with stains of a pinkish hue, firm, crisp, and juicy. Vicruats anp Duinz, Big Sweet Pompey. Fruit large, oblong, rather irregular ; skin rough, dull yellow, marbled with russet; ‘flesh yellowish, tender, breaking, and of a rich sprightly flavor: in perfection from October to March. The tree is a moderate bearer. Winesap, Wine Sop. This is a good winter apple for the table, and one of the finest cider fruits; it is of medium size, rather oblong; skin smooth, of a fine dark red and yellow ground; flesh yellow, firm, with a rich high flavor. AUTUMN FRUIT. ALEXANDER, Limperor Alexander, Aporta. Fruit very large, somewhat cordate, smallest at the crown; of a greenish-yellow colour, striped or marbled with red; pulp tender, sweet, rich, and aromatic ; ripens in October, and lasts till Christmas. American Nonpareit, Doctor Apple. A beautiful apple of medium size and roundish form ; its color yellow, streaked and stained with red on the sunny side; flesh firm, juicy, and agree- able. A very fine market apple in October and November. Tree a great bearer. 54 FRUIT-GARDENING. Boxrorp. A very superior variety, says Mr. Manning, which was first cultivated at Boxford, Massachusetts. Fruit roundish, of medium size; skin striped with red and yellow; the flesh yellow, rich, and good. The tree is a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in October. Cumpzrianp Spice. A fine dessert fruit, large, rather oblong; of a pale -yellow color, clouded near the base; the flesh white, tender, and of a fine flavor. It ripens in autumn, and will keep till February. Downton Prepin, Elton Golden Pippin, Knight’s Golden Pippin, The Downton Golden Pippin is a most abundant bearer, and the fruit extremely well adapted for market; it is rather larger than the common Golden Pippin; skin nearly smooth ; vellow, sprinkled with numerous specks; flesh yel- lowish, crisp, with a brisk, rich, sub-acid juice; specific gravity 10.79. Ripe in October and November, and will keep good till Christmas. Drap p’Or oF France, Cloth of Gold. This apple is very large and handsome; its form globular; its color a fine yellow, with dark specks; its flesh white, firm, and rich-flavored. The tree bears well, and should be found in every good collection. Fruit in perfection from September to November. Fatt Harvey. This is a large and handsome fruit, the shape flat, the skin light yellow, with a bright red cheek; flesh yellow, firm, rich, and high flavored. Mr. Manning considered it “the finest Fall and Early Winter variety ; a good bearer, and deserving extensive cultivation.” Fatt Prepin, Cobbeti’s Fall Pippin, Reinette Blanche @ Espagne, D’ Espagne, De Rateau, Concombre Ancien, White Spanish Reinette, Camuesar. This extremely valuable variety stands in the first class of autumn fruits, and is very large; its form is roundish oblong; skin smooth, yellowish green, tinged with orange; flesh yellowish, crisp, and tender, with a very rich, sugary juice. It ripens in October, and keeps well as a fall apple. Fameruse, Pomme de Neige, A Canadian apple of great FRUIT-GARDENING. 55 veauty ; in size medium; skin light green, stained with bright red; flesh white, very tender; juice saccharine, with a musky perfume ; ripe in October, and will keep good till Christmas Tree hardy and productive. Gotven Russet, Aromatic Russet. A dessert apple, of me- dium size, and of a pale copper-colored russet; in great repute for its rich saccharine, aromatic, and slightly musky flavor. The tree is hardy and very productive: in October and November. GravensteIn. Fruit rather large and compressed; of a yel- lowish green color, striped with red; flesh crisp, and high flavored ; ripens in October, and lasts till April. This variety originated in Germany, and is considered the best dessert apple in that country. Kenricr’s Rep Aurumy. A native apple of largish dimen- sions, raised by John Kenrick, Esq., of Newton, Massachusetts ; color pale green in the shade, but bright red next the sun, and streaked with deeper red; the flesh white, stained more or less with red; tender, juicy, and rich, with an agreeable sub-acid flavor ; vipe in October. Kirnam Hut. This apple, one of the most saleable varie- ties in Salem markets, originated on the farm of Dr. Kilham, in Wenham, Essex county, Massachusetts; the size is above medium; form a little oblong; the skin yellow, striped with red; the flesh is yellow and high flavored ; from September to November. Monmovuts Pirrin. This variety originated in Monmouth county, New Jersey. It is above medium size, of greenish color, striped with red; flesh firm, and of pleasant flavor. It is considered one of the most saleable and productive varieties of the season; and will keep good till after Christmas. Orance Sweetine, Yellow Sweeting, Golden Sweeting, This variety is much cultivated near Hartford, Connecticut, fer the Boston, Providence, and Philadelphia markets; the fruit is rather large, flattened at its base and summit; the color yellow, or orange ; flesh very sweet and excellent: from September to December, 56 : FRUIT-GARDENING. Rep Incustrm. A first-rate dessert apple, of medium size, and bright yellow color, deeply tinged with red; raised by Mr. Knight, President of the London Horticultural Society. The tree bears well in America, and ripens its fruit in October, which is very rich, juicy, high flavored, and grateful to the palate. Rep anp Green Sweetine, Prince’s Large Red and Green Sweeting. The fruit is of oblong shape; color green, striped, with red; the pulp is very sweet, tender, and of delicious flavor: from September to November. Srex no Fartuer, Rambo, or Romanite. This apple is much’ cultivated in Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Its form is flat, resembling the Vandervere in appearance, but is a more juicy fruit; the skin pale yellow, streaked with red ; flesh tender and. sprightly during the autumn months. Stroat, Straat. A fine autumn apple, introduced by the late Jesse Buel, Esq., of Albany ; in size medium ; form rather oblong; skin yellowish green; flesh yellow and tender; juice rich and lively; in use from September to December. Yettow Inexsrriz. A beautiful apple, raised by Mr. Knight, President of the London Horticultural Society. The size is small, form round and regular; the color of the skin golden yellow, with some black spots; the flesh yellow, firm, and delicate. The tree is an abundant bearer, and ripens its fruit- in October. The late Judge Buel considered this variety az likely to rival the Lady-apple as a fashionable fruit. York Russetine. A very large russety apple, well known about Boston. Its form is rather oblong ; its flesh pleasant and. agreeably acid ; an excellent apple : from October to December. WINTER FRUIT. Aisorus Sprrrzevzerc. A beautiful apple; large and oval; of red color, covercd with numerous white specks; the flesh is yellowish; slightly acid, and of the finest flavor; ripens in October and continues good till February. Batpwiv. No apple in the Boston markets is more popu FRUIT-GARDENING. 57 lar than this; it is rather above medium size; its form round; its color bright red, streaked with yellow; its flesh is juicy, rich, saccharine, with a most agreeable acid flavor. The tree bears fruit abundantly, which ripens in Novem- ber, and keeps till February or March. Barcetona Prearmain, Speckled Golden Reinette, Reinette Rouge, Reinette Rousse, Reinette des Carmes, Glace Rouge, Kleiner Casseler Reinette. This variety is said to be a very productive and excellent dessert apple; fruit of medium size ; oval, not angular; color brownish yellow in the shade, deep red next the sun; flesh firm, yellowish, with a rich aroma- tic agreeable acid: from November till February. Bsauty or tHe West. A large, oblate, beautiful fruit, of yellow and red color; its flesh juicy, rich, saccharine, and firm. A good marketable apple from November until March. Britt Firower.