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OT wie etnenmarniy agree wee

CORNET
UNUEWTSIRSETDY
LIBRARY

WILLARD FISKE
ENDOWMENT

AVON

1924 082 479

Cornell University

Library

The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.

There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.

http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924082479498

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SSS

NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE

OF

H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE,

COMMANDED BY THE LATE

CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S. dc.

DURING THE YEARS 1846-1850.
INCLUDING DISCOVERIES AND SURVEYS IN

NEW GUINEA, THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO,

ETc.

TO WHICH IS ADDED THE ACCOUNT OP

MR. E. B. KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION

FOR THE BXPLORATION OF THE CAPE YORK PENINSULA.

BY JOHN MACGILLIVRAY, F.R.G.S.

NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.

PUBLISHED UNDER THE
Sanction of the Dords Commissioners of the Avmiralty.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON:
T. & W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET.
1852.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE.

Disrrisution of Aboriginal tribes of Cape York and Torres Strait—
Mode of warfare illustrated—Their social condition—Treatment of the

women— Prevalence of infanticide—Education of a child—Mode of

scarifying the body—Initiation to manhood—Their canoes, weapons,
and huts—Dress of the women—Food of the natives—Mode of fishing
—Capture of the turtle and dugong described—Yams and mode of
culture—Edible roots, fruits, &c.—No recognised chieftainship—
Laws regarding property in land—Belief in transmigration of souls—
Their traditions—Diseases and modes of treatment—Burial cere-

monies

CHAPTER II.

Sail from Cape York—Mount Ernest described—Find Kulkalega tribe
on Sue Island—Friendly reception at Darnley Island, and proceedings
there—Bramble Cay and its turtle—Stay at Redscar Bay—Further
description of the natives, their canoes, &c.—Pass along the South-east
coast of New Guinea—Call at Duchateau Islands— Passage to Sydney
— Observations on Geology and Ethnology—Origin of the Australians
considered ‘

CHAPTER III.

Death of Captain Stanley—Sail for England—Arrive at the Bay of

Islands—Kororareka—Falls of the Keri-Keri—Passage across the
South Pacific—Oceanic birds—Stay at the Falkland Islands—Settle-
ment of Stanley—Call at Berkeley Sound—Lassoing cattle—Resume

our homeward voyage—Call at Horta in the Azores—The caldeira of

Fayal—Arrive in England .

* * 7 * *

33

84

iv CONTENTS.

ACCOUNT OF MR. E. B. KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

P
Narrative of Mr. W. Carron—Statement of Jackey-Jackey—Dr. Vallack’s
statement— Extracts from Mr, T. B. Simpson’s Log . 119

APPENDIX.

ComMPARATIVE VocABULARY of two of the Languages of the Neigh-

bourhood of Cape York. 0 : e 277
Comparative VocasuLary of three of the Languages of the South-

East Coast of New Guinea and the Louisiade Archipelago . - 317
Remarks on the Vocabularies of the Voyage of the Rattlesnake, by R.

G. Latuam, M.D. a ‘ F . + wok
Catatocue of the Birds of the North-East Coast of Australia and

Torres Strait . ‘ F ‘ « 355
Own the Mollusca collected by Mr. Macgillivray during the Voyage of the

Rattlesnake, by Professor Epwarp Forsss, F.R.S. 3 - 360

Descriptions of some new species of Annulosa collected by Mr.
Macgillivray during the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, by ADAM
Wuite, Esq., F.L.S. . é Hi é . 387

LIST OF PLATES.

VOL. II.
Natives of Redscar Bay, New Guinea ‘ ‘ Frontispiece
Funeral Screen, Mount Ernest . : $ 2 to face p. 37
Interior of Darnley Island Hut . . “i E - 47
New Shells < 3 j ; i to face p. 375
New Shells < : ‘ : . ‘i ; > 381
New Insects . : 4 ¢ ‘ i . . 387
New Crabs ‘ . i ; . . . 391

Cuart of Torres Strait, New Guinea, and Louisiade Archipelago.

VOYAGE

H. M. S. RATTLESNAKE.

CHAPTER I.

DISTRIBUTION OF ABORIGINAL TRIBES OF CAPE YORK AND
TORRES STRAIT—MODE OF WARFARE ILLUSTRATED—THEIR
SOCIAL CONDITION—TREATMENT OF THE WOMEN—PREVA-
LENCE OF INFANTICIDE— EDUCATION OF A CHILD—MODE OF
SCARIFYING THE BODY—INITIATION TO MANHOOD—THEIR
CANOES, WEAPONS, AND HUTS—-DRESS OF THE WOMEN—
FOOD OF THE NATIVES—MODE OF FISHING—CAPTURE OF
THE TURTLE AND DUGONG DESORIBED—YAMS AND MODE
OF CULTURE—EDIBLE ROOTS, FRUITS, ETC.—NO RECOG-
NISED CHIEFTAINSHIP—LAWS REGARDING PROPERTY IN
LAND—BELIEF IN TRANSMIGRATION OF SOULS—THEIR
TRADITIONS— DISEASES AND MODES OF TREATMENT—BURIAL
CEREMONIES.

THERE are at least five distinct tribes of natives
inhabiting the neighbourhood of Cape York. The
Gidang people possess the immediate vicinity of the
Cape: the Yagulles* stretch along the coast to the

* This is the tribe concerned in the murder of the unfortunate
Kennedy. The circumstances were related by some of the
Yagulles to an old woman at Cape York of the name of Baki,
who, when questioned upon the subject through Gi’om, partially

VOL. II. B

2 DISTRIBUTION OF TRIBES OF CAPE YORK

southward and eastward beyond Escape River : the
Katchialaigas and Induyamos (or Yarudolaigas as
the latter are sometimes called) inhabit the coun-
try behind Cape York, but I am not acquainted
with the precise localities: lastly, the Gomokudins
are located on the S. W. shores of Endeavour Strait,
and extend a short distance down the Gulph of
Carpentaria. These all belong to the Australian
race as unquestionably as the aborigines of Western
or South Australia, or the S. E. coast of New South
Wales; they exhibit precisely the same physical
characteristics which have been elsewhere so often
described as to render further repetition unnecessary.

On the other hand, the tribes inhabiting the
islands of Torres Strait differ from those of the
mainland in belonging (with the exception of the
first) to the Papuan or frizzled-haired race. Besides,
probably, a few others of which I cannot speak with
certainty, these tribes are distributed in the follow-
ing manner. The Kowraregas inhabit the Prince of
Wales’ group: the Miralegas and Italegas divide
between them Banks Island: the Badilegas pos-
sess Mulgrave Island, and the Gimilegas the
islands between the last and New Guinea: the Kal-
kalegas have Mount Ernest and the Three Sisters:

corroborated the statement of Jackey Jackey. She further stated
that a few years ago a Yagulle woman and child had been shot
by some white men in a small vessel near Albany Island, and that
the tribe were anxious to revenge their death. Whether this was
a story got up as a palliative for the murder, or not, I cannot say,

AND TORRES STRAIT. 3

the Massilegas* reside on the York Isles and others
adjacent: and the Miriamt tribe hold the north-
easternmost islands of Torres Strait, including Mur-
ray and Darnley Islands.

The junction between the two races, or the Papuan
from the north and the Australian from the south,
is effected at Cape York by the Kowraregas, whom
I believe to be a Papuanized colony of Australians,
as will elsewhere be shewn. In fact, one might
hesitate whether to consider the Kowraregas{ as
Papuans or Australians, so complete is the fusion

* TI do not know what name is given to the tribe or tribes
inhabiting the space between the Miriam and the Kalkalaig.
Dz4m (a Darnley islander) told me of a tribe called Gamle
inhabiting Owrid, Uta, Zogarid, Sirreb, Mékek, and Wurber; at
all events the natives of Massid belong to a distinct tribe, judging
from their language, and are known as the Massilegas by the Kow-
raregas. They occasionally (as in 1848) come down to Cape
York on a visit to the Australians there, often extending their
voyage far to the southward, visiting the various sandy islets in
search of turtle and remaining away for a month or more.

+ Is sonamed from a place in Murray Island. The possessions
of this tribe are Mér, Dowar, Wayer, Errab, Ugar, Zapker, and
Edugor, all, except the two last, permanently inhabited.

}¢ Dr. Latham informs me that the Kowrarega language is
undeniably Australian, and has clearly shewn such to be the case:
and although the Miriam language does not show any obvious
affinity with the continental Australian dialects, yet the number of
words common to it and the Kowrarega, I find by comparison of my
vocabularies to be very considerable, and possibly, were we at all
acquainted with the grammar of the former, other and stronger
affinities would appear.

B 2

4 THE KOWRAREGAS.

of the two races. Still the natives of the Prince
of Wales’ Islands rank themselves with the
islanders and exhibit a degree of conscious supe-
riority over their neighbours on the main land and
with some show of reason; although themselves
inferior to all the other islanders, they have at least
made with them the great advance in civilization of
having learned to cultivate the ground, a process
which is practised by none of the Australian abo-
rigines.

The Kowraregas speak of New Guinea under the
name of Mugg’ (little) Dowdai, while to New Hol-
land they apply the term of Ker (large) Dowdai.
Their knowledge of the former island has been
acquired indirectly through the medium of inter-
vening tribes. The New Guinea people are said to
live chiefly on pigs and sago ; from them are obtained
the cassowary feathers used in their dances, and
stone-headed clubs. They trade with the Gumi-
legas, who exchange commodities with the Badi-
legas, from whom the Kowrarega people receive
them. These last barter away to their northern
neighbours spears, throwing-sticks, and mother-of-
pearl shells for bows, arrows, bamboo pipes, and
knives, and small shell ornaments called dibi-dibi.
They have friendly relations with the other islanders
of Torres Strait, but are at enmity with all the
mainland tribes except the Gadang.

Occasionally hostilities, frequently caused by the
most trivial circumstances, arise between two neigh-

MODE OF WARFARE ILLUSTRATED. 5

bouring tribes, when incursions are made into each
other’s territories, and reprisals follow. Although
timely notice is usually given prior to an aggression
being made by one tribe upon another, yet the most
profound secrecy is afterwards practised by the in-
vaders. As an illustration of their mode of warfare,
in which treachery is considered meritorious in pro-
portion to its success, and no prisoners are made,
except occasionally, when a woman is carried off,—
consisting chiefly in a sudden and unexpected attack,
a short encounter, the flight of one party and the
triumphant rejoicings of the other on their return—
I may state the following on the authority of Giom.

About the end of 1848, an old Kowrarega man
went by himself in a small canoe to the neighbour-
hood of Cape Cornwall, while the men of the tribe
were absent turtling at the eastern end of Endea-
vour Strait. He was watched by a party of Gomo-
kudin blacks or Yigeiles, who, guided by his fire,
surprised and speared him. Immediately returning
to the mainland, the perpetrators of this savage
deed made a great fire by way of exultation. Mean-
while the turtling party returned, and when it became
known that the old man had been missing for seve-
ral days, they were induced by his two sons to search
for him, and found the body horribly mutilated, with
many spears stuck into it to shew who had been the
murderers. This explained the fire, so another was
lit in reply to the challenge, and at night a party of
Kowraregas in six canoes, containing all the men

6 CANNIBALISM.

and lads of the tribe, crossed over to the main. They
came upon a small camp of Yigeiles who had not
been at all concerned in the murder, and enticed one
of them to come out of the thicket where he had con-
cealed himself by the offer of a fillet of cassowary
feathers for information regarding the real mur-
derers. As soon as the man stepped out, he was
shot down with an arrow, his head cut off, and pur-
suit made after the rest. Towards morning’ their
second camping place was discovered and surrounded,
when three men, one woman, and a girl were but-
chered. The heads of the victims were cut off with
the hpi, or bamboo knife, and secured by the sringi,
or cane loop, both of which are carried slung on the
back by the Torres Strait islanders and the New
Guinea men of the adjacent shores, when on a ma-
rauding excursion;* these Papuans preserve the
skulls of their enemies as trophies, while the Aus-
tralian tribes merely mutilate the bodies of the slain,
and leave them where they fall. The Kowraregas
returned to their island with much exultation,
announcing their approach by great shouting and
blowing on conchs. The heads were placed on an
oven and partially cooked, when the eyes were
scooped out and eaten with portions of flesh cut from
the cheek ;f only those, however, who had been pre-

* See Jukes’ Voyage of the Fly, Vol. i. p. 277.

+ The eyes and cheeks of the survivors from the wreck of the
Charles Eaton (in Aug. 1834) were eaten by their murderers,—a

party consisting of different tribes from the eastern part of Torres
Strait. See Nautical Magazine, 1837, p. 799.

SIGNALS BY SMOKE. 7

sent at the murder were allowed to partake of this ;
the morsel was supposed to make them more brave.
A dance was then commenced, during which the
heads were kicked along the ground, and the savage
excitement of the dancers almost amounted to
frenzy. The skulls were ultimately hung up on
two cross sticks near the camp, and allowed to
remain there undisturbed.

In the beginning of 1849 a party of Baddilegas
who had spent two months on a friendly visit to the
natives of Muiralug treacherously killed an old Ita-
lega woman, married to one of their hosts. Two of
her brothers from Banks Island were staying with
her at the time, and one was killed, but the other
managed to escape. The heads were carried off to
Badu as trophies. This treacherous violation of the
laws of hospitality was in revenge for some petty
injury which one of the Badu men received from an
Ita black several years before.

When a large fire is made by one tribe it is often
intended as a signal of defiance to some neighbour-
ing one—an invitation to fight—and may be con-
tinued daily for weeks before hostilities commence ;
it is answered by asimilar one. Many other signals
by smoke are in use: for example, the presence of
an enemy upon the coast—a wish to communicate
with another party at a distance—or the want of
assistance—may be denoted by making a small fire,
which, as soon as it has given out a little column of
smoke, is suddenly extinguished by heaping sand.

8 POLYGAMY.

uponit. If not answered immediately it is repeated ;
if still unanswered, a large fire is got up and allowed
to burn until an answer is returned.

Polygamy is practised both on the mainland and
throughout the islands of Torres Strait. Five is the
greatest number of wives which I was credibly
informed had been possessed by one man,—but this
was an extraordinary instance, one, two, or three,
being the usual complement, leaving of course many
men who are never provided with wives. The posses-
sion of several wives ensures to the husband a certain
amount of influence in his tribe as the owner of so
much valuable property, also from the nature and
extent of his connections by marriage. In most cases
females are betrothed in infancy, according to the
will of the father, and without regard to disparity of
age, thus the future husband may be and often is
an old man with several wives. When the man
thinks proper he takes his wife to live with him
without any further ceremony, but before this she has
probably had promiscuous intercourse with the young
men, such, if conducted with a moderate degree of
secrecy, not being considered as an offence, although
if continued after marriage it would be visited by
the husband (if powerful enough) upon both the
offendin ¢ parties wit the severest punishment.

Occasionally there are instances of strong mutual
attachment and courtship, when, if the damsel is not
betrothed, a small present made to the father is
sufficient to procure his consent; at the Prince of

CONDITION OF THE WOMEN. 9

“Wales Islands a knife or glass bottle are considered
as a sufficient price for the hand of a “lady fair,”
and are the articles mostly used for that purpose.

According to Gi’om puberty in girls takes place
from the tenth to the twelfth year, but few become
mothers at a very early age. When parturition is
about to take place the woman retires to a little
distance in the bush, and is attended by an expe-
rienced matron. Delivery is usually very easy, and
the mother is almost always able on the following
day to attend to her usual occupations. The infant
is laid upon a small soft mat which the mother has
taken care to prepare beforehand, and which is used
for no other purpose.

The life of a married women among the Kow-
rarega and Gadang blacks is a hard one. She has
to procure nearly all the food for herself and hus-
band, except during the turtlmg season, and on
other occasions when the men are astir. If she
fails to return with a sufficiency of food, she is pro-
bably severely beaten,—indeed the most savage acts
of cruelty are often inflicted upon the women for the
most trivial offence. Considering the degraded posi-
tion assigned by the Australian savages to their
women, it is not surprising that the Prince of Wales
Islanders should, by imitating their neighbours in
this respect, afford a strong contrast to the inhabi-
tants of Darnley and other islands of the N.E.
part of Torres Strait, who always appeared to me
to treat their females with much consideration

10 THEIR TREATMENT BY THE MEN.

and kindness. Several instances of this kind of
barbarity came under my own notice. Piaquai
(before mentioned) when spoken to about his wife
whom he had killed a fortnight before in a fit of
passion, seemed much amused at the idea of having
got rid of her unborn child at the same time. One
morning at Cape York, Paida did not keep his
appointment with me as usual; on making inquiry,
I found that he had been squabbling with one of his
wives a few minutes before, about some trifle, and
had speared her through the hip and groin. On
expressing my disapproval of what he had done,
adding that white men never acted in that manner,
he turned it off by jocularly observing that although
I had only one wife, he had two, and could easily
spare one of them. As a further proof of the low
condition of the women, I may state that it is upon
them that the only restrictions in eating particular
sorts of food are imposed. Many kinds of fish,
including some of the best, are forbidden on the
pretence of their causing disease in women, although
not injurious to the men. The hawksbill turtle and
its eggs are forbidden to women suckling, and no
female, until beyond child bearing, is permitted to
eat of the Torres Strait pigeon.

Among other pieces of etiquette to be practised
after marriage among both the Kowraregas and
Gudangs, aman must carefully avoid speaking to
or even mentioning the name of his mother-in-law,
and his wife acts similarly with regard to her

NAMING OF CHILDREN. 11

father-in-law. Thus the mother of a person called
Nuki—which means water —is obliged to call water
by another name ; in like manner as the names of
the dead are never mentioned without great reluc-
tance so, after the death of a man named Us, or
quartz, that stone had its name changed into nattam
are, or’ the thing which is a namesake, although the
original will gradually return to common use.

The population of Muralug is kept always about
the same numerical standard by the small number of
births, and the occasional practice of infanticide.
Few women rear more than three children, and
besides, most of those born before marriage are
doomed to be killed immediately after birth, unless
the father—which is seldom the case—is desirous of
saving the child—if not, he gives the order marama
teio (throw it into the hole) and it is buried alive
accordingly. Even of other infants some, especially
females, are made away with in a similar manner
when the mother is disinclined to support it.

An infant is named immediately after birth :—
and, on Miralug,, these names for the last few years
have been chosen by a very old man named Guigwi.
Many of these names have a meaning attached to
them: thus, two people are named respectively
Wapada and Passei, signifying particular trees, one
woman is called Kuki, or the rainy season, and her
son Ras, or the driving cloud. Most people have
several names, for instance, old Guigwi was also
called Salgai, or the firesticks, and Mrs. Thomson

12 COMPRESSION OF THE SKULL.

was addressed as Késigu, or Taomai, by her
(adopted) relatives, but as Gi(ajom by all others.
Children are usually suckled for about two years,
but are soon able, in a great measure, to procure
their own food, especially shell fish, and when strong
enough to use the stick employed in digging up
roots, they are supposed to be able to shift for
themselves. A peculiar form of head, which both
the Kowrarega and Gidang blacks consider as the
beau ideal of beauty, is produced by artificial com-
pression during infancy. Pressure is made by the
mother with her hands—as I have seen practised
on more than one occasion at Cape Y ork—- one being
applied to the forehead and the other to the occiput,
both of which are thereby flattened, while the skull
is rendered proportionally broader and longer than
it would naturally have been.*

When the child is about a fortnight old the
perforation in the septum of the nose is made by
drilling it with a sharp pointed piece of tortoise-
shell, but the raised artificial scars, regarded as
personal ornaments by the Australians and Torres
Strait Islanders, are not made until long afterwards.
According to Gi’om, who states that among the
Kowraregas this scarification is purely voluntary,
the patient is laid upon the ground and held there,
while the incisions are made with a piece of glass

* Precisely the same form of skull as that alluded to at p. 189,
vol.i.; hence it is not unreasonable to suppose that the latter might
have been artificially produced.

RAISED CICATRICES ON THE BODY. 18

by some old man famous for his skill in performing
the operation. The chewed leaf of a certain plant
(which, however, I could not identify) is introduced
into the wound to prevent the edges from uniting,
and a daub of wet clav is then placed over all, and
kept there until the necessary effect has been pro-
duced. The principal scarifications among women
at Cape York and Miralug are in the formt of long
lines across the hips. Among the men, however,
there is considerable variety.

The characteristic mode of dressing the hair
among the Torres Strait Islanders is to have it
twisted up into long pipe-like ringlets, and wigs in
imitation of this are also worn. Sometimes the head
is shaved, leaving a transverse crest—a practice
seldom seen among the men but not uncommon
among women and children, from Darnley Island
down to Cape York. At the last place and Ma-
ralug the hair is almost always kept short,—still
caprice or fashion have their sway, for at Cape York
I have at times for a week together seen all the men
and lads with the hair twisted into little strands well
daubed over with red ochre and turtle fat.

The Torres Strait Islanders are distinguished by
a large complicated oval scar, only slightly raised,
and of neat construction. This, which I have been
told has some connection with a turtle, occupies the
right shoulder, and is occasionally repeated on the
left. At Cape York, however, the cicatrices were
so varied, that I could not connect any particular

14 INITIATION TO RIGHTS OF MANHOOD.

style with an individual tribe,—at the same time
something like uniformity was noticed among the
Katchialaigas, nearly all of whom had, in addition
to the horned breast mark, two or three long trans-
verse scars on the chest, which the other tribes did
not possess. In the remaining people the variety
of marking was such that it appeared fair to con-
sider it as being regulated more by individual
caprice than by any fixed custom. Many had a
simple two-horned mark on each breast, and we
sometimes saw among them a clumsy imitation of
the elaborate shoulder mark of the islanders.

The custom of undergoing a certain mysterious
ceremony prior to being admitted to the privileges
of manhood, supposed to be an institution peculiar
to the Australians, is found among the Kowraregas,
but whether it extends throughout Torres Strait is
uncertain. ‘This initiation is not at Cape York and
Miralug accompanied by the performance either
of circumcision or the knocking out of a tooth, as in
many parts of Australia. The boys, usually three
or four in number, are chased about in the bush
during the day by some of the men decked out with
feathers and other ornaments, and at night retire to
the men’s camp, for, during the whole time of their
novitiate—or about a month—they must on no
account be seen by a woman; in fact, as Giom
informed me, a woman coming upon these hernéle
—as they are called—no matter how accidentally,
would be immediately put to death. When all is

CANOES OF TORRES STRAIT. 15

over the lads return to their parents, decorated with
a profusion of ornaments which are worn until they
drop off, and wearing in front a small triangular
piece of shell as a distinguishing mark.

The same kind of canoe which is found through-
out Torres Strait has been seen to extend from Cape
York along the eastern coast as far south as Fitzroy
Island,* a distance of 500 miles. It essentially
consists of a hollowed-out log, a central platform,
and an outrigger on each side. The largest canoes
which I have seen are those of the Murray and
Darnley Islanders, occasionally as much as sixty
feet long; those of the Australians are small, vary-
ing at Cape York between fifteen and thirty feet in

* At the latter place we found a small canoe with two out-
riggers concealed on shore among some bushes. The bark canoes
of Rockingham Bay have already been described. About Whit-
sunday Passage the canoes, also of bark, are larger and of neater
construction: one which I examined at the Cumberland Isles was
made of three pieces of bark neatly sewn together ; it was six feet
long and two and a half feet wide, sharp at each end, with a
wooden thwart near the stem and stern, and a cord amidships to
keep the sides from stretching. In the creeks and bays of the
now settled districts of New South Wales another kind of canoe
was once in general use. At Broken Bay, in August, 1847, a
singular couple of aborigines whom I met upon a fishing excur-
sion had a small canoe formed of a single sheet of bark tied up
at each end; on the floor of this they were squatted, with the
gunwale not more than six inches above the water’s edge. Yet
this frail bark contained a fire, numbers of spears, fishing lines
and other gear. The woman was a character well known in Syd-
ney—Old Gooseberry—said to be old enough to have remembered
Cook’s first visit to these shores.

16 MODE OF CONSTRUCTING

length. Even the Kowraregas have much finer
canoes than their neighbours on the mainland ; one
which I measured alongside the ship was forty-five
feet long and three and a half in greatest width, and
could carry with ease twenty-five people. The con-
struction of a canoe in the neighbourhood of Cape
York is still looked upon as a great undertaking,
although the labour has been much lessened by the
introduction of iron axes, which have completely
superseded those of stone formerly in use. A tree
of sufficient size free from limbs—usually a species
of Bombax (silk-cotton tree) or Erythrina—is
selected in the scrub, cut down, hollowed out where
it falls, and dragged to the beach by means of long
climbers used as ropes. The remaining requisites
are now added ; two stout poles, fourteen to twenty
feet in length, are laid across the gunwale, and
secured there from six to ten feet apart, and the pro-
jJecting ends are secured by lashing and wooden pegs
to a long: float of light wood on each side, pointed,
and slightly turned up at the ends. A platform or
stage of small sticks laid across occupies the centre
of the canoe, extending on each side several feet
beyond the gunwale, and having on the outside a sort
of double fence of upright sticks used for stowing
away weapons and other gear. The paddles are five
feet long, with a narrow rounded blade, and are
very clumsily made. The cable is made of twisted
climbers—often the Flagellaria Indica—and a large
stone serves for an anchor.

AND MANAGING THEM. 17

When desirous of making sail, the first process is
to set up in the bow two poles as masts, and on the
weather side a longer and stouter one is laid across
the gunwale, and projects outwards and backwards
as anoutrigger. ‘These are further supported by stays
and guys, and, together with another long pole
forked at the end, serve as a frame to support the
pressure of the sails, which are usually two in num-
ber, made of matting of pandanus leaves, and ave-
rage four and a half feet in width and twelve in
height. The sails have a slender pole on each side
to which the matting is secured by small pegs;
when set, they are put up on end side by side, tra-
velling along the backstay by means of a cane
gromet. When blowing fresh it is usual to keep
a man standing on the temporary outrigger to coun-
teract by his weight the inclination of the canoe to
leeward. From the whole sail being placed in the
bow these canoes make much leeway, but when
going free may attain a maximum speed of seven or
eight knots an hour. Except in smooth water they
are very wet, and the bailer (a melon shell) is in
constant requisition.

The inhabitants of the mainland and Prince of
Wales Islands use the spear and throwing-stick, but
throughout the remainder of Torres Strait bows and
arrows are the chief weapons. The bows, which are
large and powerful, are made of split bamboo, and
the arrows of a cane procured from New Guinea,
afterwards headed with hard wood variously pointed

VOL. II. c

18 BOWS, ARROWS, SPEARS,

and sometimes barbed. The Kowraregas obtain
bows and arrows from their northern neighbours,
and occasionally use them in warfare, but prefer the
spears which are made by the blacks of the main-
land. We saw three kinds of spear at Cape York ;
one is merely a sharpened stick used for striking fish,
the two others, tipped and barbed with bone, are
used in war. The principal spear (kalak or alka)
measures about nine feet in length, two-thirds of
which are made of she-oak or casuarina, hard and
heavy, and the remaining third of a soft and very
light wood ; one end has a small hollow to receive
the knob of the throwing-stick, and to the other the
leg-bone of a kangaroo six inches long, sharpened
at each end, is secured in such a manner as to fur-
nish a sharp point to the spear and a long barb
besides. Another spear, occasionally used in fight-
ing, has three or four heads of wood each of which
is tipped and barbed with a smaller bone than is
used for the kalak.

The throwing-stick in use at Cape York extends
down the N.E. coast at least as far as Lizard Island ;
it differs from those in use in other parts of Aus-
tralia in having the projecting knob for fitting into
the end of the spear parallel with the plane of the
stick and not at right angles. It is made of casua-
rina wood, and is generally three feet in length,
an inch and a quarter broad, and half an inch thick.
At the end a double slip of melon shell, three and a
half inches long, crossing diagonally, serves as a

THROWING-STICKS AND CLUBS. 19

handle, and when used, the end rests against the
palm of the right hand, the three last fingers grasp
the stick, and the forefinger and thumb loosely
retain the spear. With the aid of the powerful
leverage of the throwing-stick a spear can be thrown
toa distance varying according to its weight from
30 to 80 yards, and with considerable precision ;
still, if observed coming’, it may easily be avoided.

The only other weapon which I have seen in
Torres Strait is a peculiar kind of club procured
from New Guinea, consisting of a quoit-like disk of
hard stone (quartz, basalt, or serpentine), with a
sharp edge, and a hole in the centre to receive one
end of a long wooden handle.

The huts which the Kowraregas and Cape York
people put up when the rains commence are
usually dome-shaped, four to six feet high, con-
structed of an arched framework of flexible sticks,
one end of each of which is stuck firmly in the
ground, and over this sheets of tea-tree (Melaleuca)
bark—and sometimes an additional thatch of grass
—are placed until it is rendered perfectly water-tight.

Not only at Cape York but throughout Torres
Strait the males use no clothing or covering of any
kind. At Cape York and the Prince of Wales
Islands grown up females usually wear a covering
in front, consisting of a tuft of long grass, or flae
(Philydrum lanuginosum), or split pandanus leaves,
either hanging loosely or passed between the legs
and tied to another behind ; over this a short petti-

c 2

20 PETTICOATS AND FISHING GEAR.

coat of fine shreds of pandanus leaf, the ends
worked into a waistband, is sometimes put on,
especially by the young girls, and when about to
engage in dancing. This petticoat, varying only
in the materials from which it is made, is in general
use among the females of all the Torres Strait
tribes except the Kowrarega, and much labour is
often expended upon its construction. The large
mats used as sails, also for sleeping under in wet
weather, are made by the women from the fallen
leaves of the pandanus,—the common basket from
the rush-like leaves of Xerotes Banksii ?—and the
water basket from the sheath of the leaf of the
Seaforthia palm.

The food of these blacks varies with the season of
the year, and the supply is irregular and often
precarious. Shell fish and fish are alone obtainable
all the year round,—collecting the former is exclu-
sively a female occupation, but fishing is chiefly
practised by the men. Fish are either killed with
a plain pointed spear, often merely a stick sharpened
at the end, or are taken in deep water with the hook
and line. Their hooks are made of a strip of
tortoise-shell so much curved as to form three-
fourths of a circle, but from their shape and the
absence of a barb they cannot be so effective as
those of European make: indeed these last were at
Cape York preferred by the natives themselves.
The line is neatly made from the tough fibres of the
rattan, which are first scraped to the requisite

MODE OF CATCHING TURTLE. 21

degree of fineness with a sharp edged Cyrena shell,
then twisted and laid up in three strands.

Turtle forms an important article of food, and
four different kinds are distinguished at Cape York
and the Prince of Wales Islands. Three of these
can be identified as the Green, the Hawksbill, and
the Loggerhead species, and the fourth is a small
one which I never saw. This last, I was informed
by Grom, is fished for in the followmg extraordinary
manner. A live sucking fish (Hcheneis Remora),
having previously been secured bya line passed round
the tail, is thrown into the water in certain places
known to be suitable for the purpose ; the fish while
swimming about makes fast by its sucker to any
turtle of this small kind which it may chance to
encounter, and both are hauled in together !

The green turtle is of such consequence to the
natives that they have distinguished by a special
name taken from the animal itself (sédangi from
stlur) the season of the year when it is most
plentiful; this, at Cape York, usually extends from
about the middle of October until the end of No-
vember, but the limits are not constant. During
the season they are to be seen floating about on the
surface of the water, often im pairs, male and female
together. A few are caught at night on the sandy
beaches, but the greater number are captured in the
water. The canoes engaged in turtling, besides
going about in the day, are often sent out on calm
moonlight nights. When a turtle is perceived, it is

22 LOOK-OUT STATIONS FOR TURTLE.

approached from behind as noiselessly as possible, —
when within reach, a man in the bow carrying the
end of a small rope jumps out, and, getting upon
the animal’s back, with a hand on each shoulder,
generally contrives to turn it before it has got far
and secure it with the rope. This operation requires
considerable strength and courage, in addition to
the remarkable dexterity in diving and swimming
possessed by all the blacks of the north-east coast
and Torres Strait. There are some favourite look-
out stations for turtle where the tide runs strongly
off a high rocky point. At many such places,
distinguished by large cairns* of stones, bones of
turtle, dugong's, &c., watch is kept during the sea-
son, and, when a turtle is perceived drifting past
with the tide, the canoe is manned and sent in
chase.

With their usual improvidence, the Australians,
when they take a turtle, feast upon it until all has
been consumed and the cravings of hunger induce
them to look out for another; but the Torres Strait

* One of these on Albany Rock is a pile of stones, five feet
high and seven wide, mixed up with turtle’s and human bones,
and, when I last saw it, it was covered with long trailing shoots
of Flagellaria Indica placed there by a turtling party to ensure
success, as I was told, but how, was not explained. The human
bones were the remains of a man killed there many years ago by
a party of Kowraregas who took his head away with them. The
mounds described and figured in Jukes’ Voyage of the Fly (Vol. i.
pp- 137, 138) and considered by us at the time to be graves, are
merely the usual cairns at a look-out place for turtle.

HAWKSBILL TURTLE. 23

Islanders are accustomed to dry the flesh to supply
them with food during their voyages. The meat is
cut into thin slices, boiled in a melon shell, stuck
upon skewers, and dried in the sun. Prepared in
this manner it will keep for several weeks, but
requires a second cooking before being used, on
account of its hardness and toughness. The fat
which rises to the surface during the boiling is
skimmed off and kept in jomts of bamboo and
turtle’s bladders, being much prized as food; I
have even seen the natives drink it off in its hot
fluid state with as much gusto as ever alderman
enjoyed his elaborately prepared turtle soup.

The hawksbill turtle (Caretta imbricata), that
chiefly producing the tortoise-shell of commerce,
resorts to the shores in the neighbourhood of Cape
York later in the season than the green species, and
is comparatively scarce. It is only taken at night
when depositing its eggs in the sand, as the sharp-
ness of the margin of its shell renders it dangerous
to attempt to turn it in the water,—indeed even the
green turtle, with a comparatively rounded margin
to the carapace, occasionally, in struggling to
escape, inflicts deep cuts on the inner side of the leg
of its captor, of which I myself have seen an instance.
Of the tortoise-shell collected at Cape York and the
Prince of Wales Islands a small portion is con-
verted into fish-hooks, the rest is bartered either to
Europeans or to the Island blacks, who fashion it
into various ornaments.

24 CAPTURE OF THE DUGONG.

Another favourite article of food is the dugong,
(Halicore Australis) of which a few are killed every
year. Although it extends along the east coast of
Australia from Moreton Bay to Cape York, it
appears to be nowhere very common. About Cape
York and Endeavour Strait, the dugong is most
frequently seen during the rainy season, at which
time it is said by the natives to bring forth its
young. When one is observed feeding close
inshore* chase is made after it in a canoe. One of
the men standing up in the bow is provided with a
peculiar instrument used solely for the capture of
the animal in question. It consists of a slender peg
of bone, four inches long, barbed all round, and
loosely slipped into the heavy, rounded, and flattened
head of a pole, fifteen or sixteen feet in length; a
long rope an inch in thickness, made of the twisted
stems of some creeping plant, is made fast to the pee
at one end, while the other is secured to the canoe.
When within distance, the bowman leaps out, strikes
the dugong,, and returns to the canoe with the shaft
in his hand. On being struck, the animal dives,
carrying out the line, but generally rises to the
surface and dies in a few minutes, not requiring a
second wound, a circumstance surprising in the case
of a cetaceous animal, six or eight feet in length,
and of proportionate bulk. The carcass is towed on

* A slender, branchless, cylindrical, articulated sea weed, of a
very pale green colour, was pointed out to me by a native as
being the favourite food of the dugong.

COOKING IN THE OVEN. 285

shore and rolled up the beach, when preparations
are made for a grand feast. The flesh is cut
through to the ribs in thin strips, each with its
share of skin and blubber, then the tail is removed
and sliced with a sharp shell as we would a round of
beef. The blubber is esteemed the most delicate part ;
but even the skin is eaten, although it requires much
cooking in the oven.

This oven is of simple construction—a number of
stones, the size of the fist, are laid on the ground,
and a fire is continued above them until they are
sufficiently hot. The meat is then laid upon the
bottom layer with some of the heated stones above
it, a rim of tea-tree bark banked up with sand
or earth is put up all round, with a quantity of
bark, leaves, or grass on top, to retain the steam,
and the process of baking goes on. This is the
favourite mode of cooking turtle and dugong
throughout Torres Strait, and on the east coast of
the mainland I have seen similar fire places as far
south as Sandy Cape.

A great variety of yam-like tubers are cultivated
in Torres Strait. Although on Murray and Darnley
and other thickly peopled and fertile islands a
considerable extent of land in small patches has
been brought under cultivation, at the Prince of
Wales Islands the cleared spots are few in number,
and of small extent,—nor does the latter group
naturally produce either the cocoa-nut or bamboo, or
is the culture of the banana attempted. On the main

26 CULTURE OF THE YAM.

land again I never saw the shghtest attempt at
gardening.

The principal yam, or that known by the names of
hictai and hetai, is the most important article of vege-
table food, as it lasts nearly throughout the dry season.
Forming a yam garden is a very simple operation.
No fencing is required,—the patch of ground is
strewed with branches and wood, which when
thoroughly dry are set on fire to clear the surface, —
the ground is loosely turned up with a sharpened
stick, and the cut pieces of yam are planted at
irregular intervals, each with a small pole for the
plant to climb up. These operations are completed
just before the commencement of the wet season, or
in the month of October.

When the rains set in the biyw becomes the prin-
cipal support of the Cape York and Maralug people.
This is a grey slimy paste procured from a species of
mangrove (Candelia ?) the sprouts of which, three or
four inches long, are first made to undergo a process
of baking and steaming—a large heap being laid
upon heated stones, and covered over with bark, wet
leaves,and sand—after which they are beaten between
two stones, and the pulp is scraped out fit for use.
It does not seem to be a favourite food, and is
probably eaten from sheer necessity. Mixed up
with the biyu to render it more palatable they
sometimes add large quantities of a leruminous seed,
the size of a chestnut, which has previously been
soaked for a night in water, and the husk removed,

NO RECOGNISED CHIEFTAINSHIP. 27

or the tuber of a wild yam (Dioscorea bulbifera),
cut into small pieces, and well steeped in water to
remove its bitter taste.

Among the edible fruits of Cape York I may
mention the ledra, a species of Anacardium or
cashew nut (the lérgala of Port Essington), which
after being well roasted to destroy its acridity has
somewhat the taste of a filbert,—the elari (a species
of Wallrothia), the size of an apricot, soft and
mealy, with a nearly insipid but slightly mawkish
taste,—wobar, the small, red, mealy fruit of J/i-
musops Kaukii,—and the ap7ga (a species of Hugenia),
a red, apple-like fruit, the pericarp of which has
a pleasantly acid taste. The fruit of two species of
pandanus yields a sweet mucilage when sucked,
and imparts it to water in which it has been soaked,
after which it is broken up between two stones, and
the kernels are extracted and eaten.

Throughout Australia and Torres Strait, the exist-
ence of chieftainship, either hereditary or acquired,
has in no instance of which I am aware been
clearly proved: yet in each community there are
certain individuals who exercise an influence over
the others which Europeans are apt to mistake for
real authority. These so-called chiefs, are generally
elderly men, who from prowess in war, force of
character, or acknowledged sagacity, are allowed to
take the lead in everything relating to the tribe.
In Torres Strait such people are generally the
owners of large canoes, and several wives; and in

28 LAWS REGARDING PROPERTY IN LAND.

the northern islands, of groves of cocoa-nut trees,
yam grounds, and other wealth. Among the Kow-
raregas, there are, according to Gi’om, three prin-
cipal people, Manu, Piaquai, and Baki, all old men,
but among the Gudangs, a young man of twenty-
five of the name of Tumagugo appeared to have
the greatest influence, and next to him Paida, not
more than six or eight years older.

It seems curious to find at Cape York and the
Prince of Wales Islands a recognised division and
ownership of land, seeing that none of it by cultiva-
tion has been rendered fit for the permanent support
of man. According to Giom, there are laws regu-
lating the ownership of every inch of ground on
Muralug and the neighbouring possessions of the
Kowraregas, and I am led to believe such is likewise
the case at Cape York. Among these laws are the
following. A person has a claim upon the ground
where both himself and his parents were born,
although situated in different localities. On the
death of parents their land is divided among the
children, when both sexes share alike, with this
exception, that the youngest of the family receives
the largest share. Marriage does not affect the
permanency of the right of a woman to any landed
property which may have come into her possession.
Lastly, an old man occasionally so disposes of his
property that a favourite child may obtain a larger
proportion than he could afterwards claim as his
inheritance.

TRANSMIGRATION OF SOULS. 29

Neither at Cape York, nor in any of the Islands
of Torres Strait, so far as I am aware, do the abo-
rigines appear to have formed an idea of the exis-
tence of a Supreme Being ; the absence of this
belief may appear questionable, but my informant,
Gi’om, spoke quite decidedly on this point, having
frequently made it the subject of conversation with
the Kowrarega blacks. The singular belief in the
transmigration of souls, which is general among the
whole of the Australian tribes, so far as known, also
extends to the islands of Torres Strait. The people
holding it imagine that, immediately after death,
they are changed into white people or Europeans,
and as such pass the second and final period of
their existence ; nor is it any part of this creed that
future rewards and punishments are awarded. It
may readily be imagined that when ignorant and
superstitious savage tribes, such as those under con-
sideration, were first visited by Europeans, it was
natural for them to look with wonder upon beings
so strangely different from themselves, and so in-
finitely superior in the powers conferred by civiliza-
tion, and to associate so much that was wonderful
with the idea of supernatural agency. At Darnley
Island, the Prince of Wales Islands, and Cape York,
the word used at each place to signify a white man,
also means a ghost.* The Cape Y ork people even went

* Frequently when the children were teasing Gi’om. they would
be gravely reproved by some elderly person telling them to leave
her, as “poor thing! she is nothing, only a ghost!” (igur! urt
longa, mata markai.)

30 SUPERSTITIONS.

so far as to recognise in several of our officers and
others in the ship, the ghosts of departed friends to
whom they might have borne some fancied resem-
blance, and, in consequence, under the new names of
Tamu, Tarka, &c. they were claimed as relations,
and entitled to all the privileges of such.

Among many superstitions held by the Prince of
Wales islanders, they are much afraid of shooting
stars, believing them to be ghosts which in breaking
up produce young ones of their own kind. After
sneezing, they make violent gestures with the hands
and arms ; if a joint cracks, they imagine that some
one is speaking of them or wishing them well in the
direction in which the arm is pointing.

The only tradition which I heard of occurs among
the Kowraregas, and is worth mentioning for its
singularity. The first man created was a great
giant named Adi, who, while fishing off Hammond
Island, was caught by the rising tide and drowned,
Hammond Rock springing up immediately after to
mark the spot. His wives, who were watching him
at the time, resolved to drown themselves, and were
changed into some dry rocks upon an adjacent reef
named after them Ipile, or the wives.

According to Gi’om ague is prevalent in Miralug
during the rainy season, but is not much dreaded,
as itis supposed to remove former complaints, such
as the sores prevalent among children. At Cape
York I have seen people affected with this com-
plaint, but to what extent it occurs in that neigh-

DISEASES AND MODE OF TREATMENT. 31

bourhood I cannot state. One day some people
from the ship saw our friend Tumagugo under
treatment for ague. He was laid upon the ground
while several men in succession took his head between
their knees and kneaded it with their hands. After
this they placed him close to a fire and sprinkled
water over him until a copious perspiration broke
out, denoting the third and last stage of the attack.
Boils on various parts of the body, even on the head,
are prevalent, especially during the rainy season,
when the food is of a poorer description than at other
times. Children are most subject to them, and I have
more than once seen them so covered with offen-
sive sores as to be rendered most disgusting: objects.
In old people callosities frequently form on the hip
and elbows, the effect, probably, of sleeping on the
ground. Scarification of the affected part is a com-
mon mode of treating local inflammatory complaints.
Ligatures are also used, as for example, one across
the forehead to remove head-ache. A singular mode
of treating various complaints consists in attaching
one end of a string to the patient, while the other is
held in the mouth of a second person, who scarifies
his own gums at the same time until they bleed,
which is supposed to indicate that the “ bad blood ”
has passed from the sick to the sound person.

With regard to the curious burial ceremonies of
the Kowraregas, I regret that I cannot be so
explicit as might otherwise have been the case, as
Gi’om’s information on this subject, and on this only,

32 FUNERAL CEREMONIES.

was not written down at the time. When the head
of a family dies at Muralug, the body is laid out upon
a frame work of sticks raised a foot from the ground,
and is there allowed to rot. A small hut is raised
close by, and the nearest relative of the deceased lives
there, supplied with food by his friends, until the head
of the corpse becomes nearly detached by the process
of putrefaction, when it is removed and handed over
to the custody of the eldest wife. She carries it about
with her in a bag during her widowhood, accompa-
nying the party of the tribe to which she belongs
from place to place. The body, or rather the head-
less skeleton, is then interred in a shallow grave
over which a mound is raised ornamented by wooden
posts at the corners painted red, with sometimes
shells, and other decorations attached to them, pre-
cisely such a one as that figured in the Voyage of
the Fly, vol. i. p. 149. On the occasion of our
visiting the grave in question (at Port Lihou, on
Miralug), Gi’om told me that we were closely
watched by a party of natives who were greatly
pleased that we did not attempt to deface the tomb ;
had we done so—and the temptation was great to
some of us, for several fine nautilus shells were
hanging up, and some good dugong skulls were
lying upon the top—one or more of the party would
probably have been speared.

CHAPTER II.

SAIL FROM CAPE YORK—-MOUNT ERNEST DESCRIBED—FIND
KULKALEGA TRIBE ON SUE ISLAND—FRIENDLY RECEPTION
AT DARNLEY ISLAND, AND PROCEEDINGS THERE—BRAMBLE
CAY AND ITS TURTLE—STAY AT REDSCAR BAY-—-FURTHER
DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES, THEIR CANOES, ETC.—PASS
ALONG THE SOUTH-EAST COAST OF NEW GUINEA—CALL AT
DUCHATEAU ISLANDS— PASSAGE TO SYDNEY— GENERAL
REMARKS REGARDING NEW GUINEA AND THE LOUISIADE
ARCHIPELAGO—-OBSERVATIONS ON GEOLOGY AND ETHNOLOGY
—ORIGIN OF THE AUSTRALIANS CONSIDERED.

Dec. 8rd.— At length we have bade a final adieu
to Cape York, after a stay of upwards of two
months, which have passed away very pleasantly to
such of us as were in the habit of making excursions
in the bush, or who spent much of their time on
shore. We are now on our way to Sydney, by
way of Torres Strait, New Guinea and the Louis-
iade, chiefly for the purpose of running another set
of meridian distances, the position of Cape York
being now sufficiently well determined to serve as a
secondary meridian, one of the starting points of the
survey. The natives learned at daylight that we
were to leave them in a few hours, so in order to
make the most of their last opportunity of getting
bisiker and choka, they hauled a large canoe across

VOL. I. D

34 MOUNT ERNEST.

the dry sands after much trouble, and under the
direction of Baki, who affected great grief at the
prospect of parting with us, went off to the ship.
We sailed at 8 a.m. for Mount Ernest—at which
place a round of theodolite angles was required—
and in the afternoon anchored off its south-western
side in nine fathoms, one mile off shore. A solitary
native was seen at work upon a canoe near the
beach, but when a boat approached the shore he
withdrew. The canoe was about half finished, and
close by was a small shed of bamboo thatched with
grass. After crossing a small sandy plain covered
with short grass growing in tufts, we met the native
on the edge of a brush to which he had slowly
retired in order to pick up his spears and throwing
stick, both of which were precisely similar to those
of Cape York, from which place they had probably
been procured. He was a quiet, sedate, good-
natured old man, and although at first rather shy
he soon laid aside his fears on receiving assurances
in the Kowrarega language, which he understood,
that markai poud Kulkalaig Nagir (the white men
are friends of the Kulkalega tribe of Mount Er-
nest), backed by a present of some biscuit and a
knife. On subsequent occasions, when accompany-
ing us from place to place, the quiet listless apathy
of the old fellow was a source of some amusement.
He did what was told him, and exhibited little
curiosity, and scarcely any surprise at the many
wonderful things we shewed him-—such as shooting

MOUNT ERNEST DESCRIBED. 35

birds with a gun, and procuring a light from a
lucifer match.

On the following day I had an opportunity of
examining the whole of the northern or inhabited
side of the island. Mount Ernest is little more
than a mile in greatest length, of a somewhat
triangular shape, its eastern and larger portion
hilly, rising gradually to an elevation of 751 feet,
and its western part low and sandy. The rock
is grey sienite, and from the striking similarity of
aspect, it appeared to me pretty certain that Pole,
Burke, and Banks Islands are of the same forma-
tion; they agree in exhibiting massive peaks, re-
spectively 409, 490, and 1246 feet in height.

Mount Ernest is the head quarters of the Kul-
kalega tribe of Torres Strait Islanders who are now
absent on one of their periodical migrations, leaving
in possession only the old man whom we met
yesterday, and his family, among whom is a
daughter of rather prepossessing appearance for a
female of her race. The village consists of a single
line of huts, which would furnish accommodation
for, probably, 150 people. It is situated on the
north-west, or leeward side of the island, imme-
diately behind the beach, and in front of a belt of
jungle. The huts are long and low, with an arched
roof, and vary in length from ten to twenty feet,
with an average height of five feet, and a width of
six. They consist of a neat framework of strips
of bamboo, thatched with long coarse grass. Hach

D2

36 SIGNS OF CULTIVATION.

hut is usually situated in a small well-fenced en-
closure, and opposite to it on the beach is the cooking
place, consisting of a small shed, under which the
fire is made. We saw indications of many turtle
having lately been cooked here upon a framework
of sticks over a small fire, precisely as is practised
by the natives of New Guinea and the Louisiade
Archipelago.

The strip of forest behind the village is traversed
in every direction by well beaten paths, chiefly
leading to the back part of the island, where, on the
slope of a hill in good soil, we found many patches
of rude cultivation. The chief plant is a broad-
leaved species of yam, trained upon tall poles kept
in position by cross bamboos, forming a framework
divided into little squares, each of which contains a
plant. A species of Calladium with an esculent
root is also much cultivated ; it is planted in regular
rows with the earth heaped up in ridges, as in a
potato or turnip field at home. I noticed some
small plots of ground prepared with more than
usual care for the growth of what Gi’om told me
was an herb used as tohacco; the young plants
were protected from the sun with pieces of matting.

Not far from the village, under the shade of an
aged mimusops tree on the outskirts of the wood,
we observed a cleared oval space where ten human
skulls—of former members of the tribe, as we were
informed- -were arranged upon a plank raised on
stones a foot or so from the ground. The skulls

VSRT VoOpuoy ‘srsyayqng ‘a'100g M*® L

‘LIVELS SMUVOL LSANU T LN MO “NAW DS TVS ALOLIC

Somey woapepy B [opaeUATMA
ares .

COLLECTION OF HUMAN SKULLS. 37

were mostly old and weather-worn, and some of
them had pandanus seeds stuck in the orbits by way
of eyes. In front was a large smooth stone painted
red and black, and partially imbedded in the earth,
and beside it were some painted human leg and arm
bones, shells and other ornaments. Behind, some
thirty or forty skulls of turtle were arranged on the
ground in several rows forming a triangle.

In a beautiful opening among the trees behind
the village we saw an extraordinary screen—named
wows—the purpose of which, so far as we could
understand, had some connexion with the memory
of the dead. It extended fifty-six feet in length,
with a slight outward curvature, and measured five
feet and a half in height. It was formed of a row
of poles stuck in the ground, crossed in front by
three horizontal strips of bamboo, and covered with
cross lattice work. The bars of the screen were
daubed over with red paint, and hung with rows of
spider shells also painted red. Some poles project-
ing above the others two to four feet had painted
jaws of the dugong and large conch shells (Fusus
proboscidiferus) fixed to the top, and numerous other
dugong bones and shells were scattered along the
front. On the ground along the foot of the screen
was a row of stones painted with black and red in
imitation of grotesque faces, and to several of these
the old man who acted as cicerone attached the
names of persons who were dead. In some the
painting was comparatively recent, and the stones

38 CURIOUS SCREEN.

appeared to have been placed there singly at differ-
ent periods to commemorate the death of the heads
of families of the tribe. We saw another of these
curious funeral screens,—like the first one it was
situated in a little glade in the forest, but unlike it
the front was covered or thatched with cocoa-nut
leaves, and ithadasmall door-like opening in the centre.

The natives must have left the island either on
account of its being now the turtling season, or else
from the want of water. A small deep well behind
the village, apparently the only one in the place,
was almost entirely dried up. From the old man I
procured the names of some of the neighbouring
islands, and also a few other Kilkalega words which
are so similar to those of the Kowrarega language as
to corroborate Gi’om’s assertion that both have many
wordsin common. By way of illustration I may give
a few examples. Thus muto, small bird; kidulug,
dove; geinom, pigeon; kakur, egg ; burda, grass;
wardba, cocoa-nut ; moda, enclosure round the huts.

At one place I saw indications of an upheaval of
the northern side of the island in a bed of coral con-
glomerate six feet thick, with its raised wall-like
edge towards the hill as if tilted up, and the re-
mainder sloping down towards the sea. A similar
appearance on a small scale exists on most of the
coral islands which I have visited, but I had not
before seen these sloping beds above the influence of
the salt water, or at least beyond reach of the spray,
still less supporting luxuriant vegetation, consisting

PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND. 39

in the present instance of a large extent of jungle,
with trees often of great size, and a dense growth
of underwood.

Among the natural productions of the island I
may first allude to the large thickets of bamboo
scattered along the base of the hill as the first new
feature in the vegetation, and secondly, to the small
Kucalypti growing between the hill and the brushes,
as this is the most northerly limit of that Australian
genus known to me. Among the trees of the
brushes I may mention the Anacardium, or cashew
nut, with large red acrid fruit, Mimusops Kaukii,
often attaining a great size, and aspecies of Bombax,
or silk-cotton tree, from the trunk of one of which the
canoe we saw upon the beach was being constructed.

Of birds the Australian quail, Torres Strait pigeon,
and brown dove were plentiful, and afforded good
sport to the shooters ; Pitta strepitans (a handsome
thrush-like bird of gaudy colours—red, e¢reen, blue
and black) was heard calling in every brush and
thicket. Several large lizards were seen; one of
these, about four feet in length, perched upon the
fence of one of the deserted huts, at first took so
little notice of my approach that I refrained from
shooting it, thinking it had beentamed. The colour
of this lizard (Monitor Gouldit) is a dull bluish
green, spotted and variegated with yellow. It is
much esteemed as food, and the skin is used for
covering the wartip or New Guinea drum.

Dec. 7th.—In the morning a canoe, with seven

40 SUE ISLAND.

men in it, came off to the ship from Sue Island,
near which we were at anchor. At first they
approached cautiously, holding up pieces of tortoise-
shell, and making a great noise, shouting out,
“kaisu (tortoise-shell), kapo-bie—kapo-biiai—poud
—poud,” &c., besides other words which were unin-
telligible, pointing at the same time to the island
(which they called Waraber) as if mviting us to land.
These blacks belonged to the Kulkalega or Kulka-
laig tribe, as was ascertained by Gi’om, who was
well known to some of them, and understood enough
of their language to keep up a conversation. Nearly
the whole tribe, she was informed, are now upon
Sue Island, although their head-quarters are, as
mentioned before, at Mount Ernest. The men in
the canoe differed in no material respect from the
natives of the Prince of Wales Islands on one hand,
and those of Darnley Island on the other. Many
had the characteristic faint oval scar on one shoulder,
some wore the hair in moderately long pipe-like ring-
lets, while others had it cut close. All were per-
fectly naked, and the only ornaments worn were the
large round pearl-shell on the breast. The canoe
was rather singular in form, with greater beam than
I had ever seen in one, nor did the sides tumble
home as usual; the bow was sharp, but the stern
square, as if effected by cutting a very large canoe
in halves, and filing up the open end. We saw
several bamboo bows and bundles of arrows, stowed
away under the platform; these the natives would

KULKALEGA TRIBE OF NATIVES. 41

not part with, but a large quantity of very fine tor-
toise-shell was obtained, chiefly in exchange for leaf
tobacco, which they know by the name of sigub.
When the tide slackened we got under weigh, and
the natives returned to their island. Sue, although
the largest of the Three Sisters, is not more than the
third of a mile in length. Like all the islands of the
eastern side of Torres Strait, with the exception of
the Darnley and Murray Islands, this is of the coral
sand formation, low and thickly wooded. Some
cocoa-nut trees grow at the west end of the island,
where there is a native village which we approached
close enough to have a good view of it with the spy-
glass. It consisted of several long huts, thatched
with grass, which apparently are not much used
during the day time, as we saw no one entering or
coming out of them. Many of the people, both men
and women, ran down to the beach, waving green
branches to induce us, to land; others were sitting
down under temporary sheds made by stretching
large mats—the sails of their canoes—- over a frame-
work of sticks. The inside of one large enclosure
was concealed by a fence six feet high, and an adja-
cent shed, under which some cooking was going on,
was completely covered with some recent shells of
turtle, apparently about thirty in number. Three
very large canoes were hauled up on the beach, pro-
tected from the sun by matting, and two smaller
ones were kept afloat. There appeared to be about
60 people upon the island, from which, and other

42 LAND ON ARDEN ISLAND.

circumstances, I do not suppose the Kulkalega tribe
to consist of more than 100 souls. The women
whom we saw wore loose petticoats of leaves reach-
ing to below the knees.

The ship worked up through the channel between
Bet and Sue Islands, and anchored for the night off
the eastern extreme of the reef running out from
the former. Four large canoes coming from the
northward passed over the reef at high water, going
towards Sue Island.

Next day we passed Cocoa-nut Island on our
right, and Dove Island on our left, and anchored
near Arden Island, where we landed on the follow-
ing morning before daylight with a seining party.
The place is scarcely more than a quarter of a mile
in length, low and sandy, covered with tall bushes
and a few clumps of trees (Pisonia grandis). We
saw traces—but none very recent —of visits paid by
the natives, indicated by remains of fires, turtle
bones, a large pit dug as a well, and two old graves.
As usual a coral reef extends from the shore, with-
out leaving a clear spot of sufficient size to admit of
the seine being hauled. Species of Cissus and two
or three Capparide constituted the bulk of the vege-
tation, and rendered the low scrub almost impervious
in many places. A number of Torres Strait pigeons,
chiefly young birds, and some stone-plovers and
other waders, were shot, and one rare bird was
obtained for the collection, a male of Pachycephala
melanura. Soon after our return we got under

NATIVES COME ON BOARD. 43

weigh, passed on our right Rennel, Marsden and
Keat Islands, and anchored three miles to the north-
ward of the last of these.

Dec. 10th.—While getting under weigh, a canoe
with a party of natives from Stephens Island came
off to us in a very confident manner, and at once
called out for a rope (Jaga), with which they made
fast to the ship. Among them were two of the
natives of Darnley Island, one of whom, Dzim, soon
recognised me as an old acquaintance, under the
name of Dzdka, by which I had formerly been
known on shore during the Fly’s visits. They had
a few cocoa-nuts, and a little tortoise-shell for
barter, and were very urgent that the ship should
go to Campbell Island on her way to Darnley,
promising us abundance of water, cocoa-nuts, yams,
and tortoise-shell, of the first of which at least they
could have had none to spare. In the evening they
left us, after spending the greater part of the day
on board, with their canoe towing astern. I found
the native names of at least three of the islands to
differ from those given in the Admiralty’s chart
of Torres Strait from the Fly’s survey. Thus
Nepean Island is Edtgor, not Oogar,—Stephens
Island is Ugar and not Attagor,—and Campbell
Island is Zapker (nearly as Lewis makes it) and
not Jarmuth. These names were obtained under
circumstances which obviated the possibility of mis-
take. Dztim also gave much information regarding
other matters, and enabled me to fix the limits of

44 ARE RECEIVED IN A FRIENDLY MANNER.

the tribe to which he belonged, a matter which had
frequently puzzled me before. In the afternoon the
Bramble—as told us by the natives —appeared in
sight, but we could not reach Darnley Island, so
anchored after dark in forty-five fathoms, mud,
seven miles to the northward of it.

Dee. 11th.—A light air from the N.W. carried us
up to the anchorage in Treacherous Bay about
noon. A canoe from the village of Kiriam came
off to us, and lay under our stern bartering tortoise-
shell for knives, axes, and tobacco, and when we
shoved off in the first cutter to communicate with
the shore, one of the natives, on being asked to
accompany us, jumped into the water without a
moment’s hesitation, and swam to the boat. We
landed at Kiriam, and were received by a crowd
of people on the rocks and in the water. My old
friend Siwai, with whom I had gone through the
ceremony of exchanging names nearly five years
ago, shewed much joy at seeing me again, and
made many inquiries regarding Jukes and others
then in the Fly. But these five years have sadly
altered him,—he now presents the appearance of a
feeble emaciated man prematurely old, with a short
cough and low voice,—his back is bowed down, and
even with the aid of a stick he can scarcely totter
along. He is now the man in most authority in
the island, his rival Mamds having been killed in
New Guinea in company with several other Darnley
Islanders whose names were mentioned to me; they

UNABLE TO FIND WATER. 45

had been on a visit to a friendly tribe, one of whose
quarrels they espoused, and only a few returned to
Errdb to tell the tale. The natives wished us to
stay at Kiriam, but as the principal object of the
ship’s coming to the island was to procure water,
we were anxious to know whether it could be ob-
tained in sufficient quantity at Bikar, where the
Fly and Bramble had watered before. As Siwai
told us that there was none at Bikar, but plenty at
Mogor—his own village—we pulled along to the
latter place, accompanied by himself and three of
his sons. In passing along the south-west side of
the island, we were struck with the superior richness
of vegetation and apparent fertility, compared with
what we had seen in New Guinea and the Louisiade
Archipelago during the previous part of the cruise.
Some portions reminded one of English park scenery,
—gently slopmg, undulating, grassy hills, with
scattered clumps and lines of trees.

On landing at the village, which consists of two
or three houses only, we were taken a quarter of a
mile—by a path leading along a small valley through
a grove of cocoa-nut trees, bananas, and various cul-
tivated plants, (among which I observed the Mango
in full bearing)—to a pool of water in the dried-up
bed of a small rivulet. But the quantity of water
was not enough for our purpose, even had it been
situated in a place more easy of access. Some
magnificent Sago palms overhung the water with
their large spreading fronds; these we were told

46 BARTERING SCENE.

had been brought from Dowde or New Guinea, many
years ago. Siwai and his sons, at their own urgent
request, were allowed a passage with us to the ship,
and remained all night there, sleeping among the
folds of a sail upon the poop.

Dec. 12th.—In the morning a party landed at
Bikar (abreast of the ship) to look for water, but the
pool which on several occasions supplied the Fly,
Bramble, and Prince George, was now dry. At
this season too, during the prevalence of N.W.
winds, landing is difficult on account of the surf,
and we had much trouble in keeping our guns dry
while up to the waist in water. In the afternoon
both cutters were sent to Mogor to procure vege-
tables for the ship’s company by barter with the
natives, and I accompanied the party, but, contrary
to expectation, no one was allowed to land, the
person in authority “having seen something” on
shore to alarm him, the nature of which continued
tous a mystery. The second cutter laid off, and
the first remained in water about knee-deep, sur-
rounded by a crowd of unarmed natives. The scene
was at that time very animated—groups of men,
women, and children, were to be seen staggering
under a load of cocoa-nuts, wading out to the boats,
scrambling to be first served, and shouting out to
attract attention to their wares, which in addition
included some tortoise-shell, a few yams, bananas
and mangos. Siwai was present in the boat, and
by exercising his authority in our behalf, matters

INTERIOR OF A HUT. 47

went on more smoothly than otherwise might have
been the case. A large supply of cocoa-nuts and
a few vegetables having been obtained for axes,
knives, calico, and red cloth, we returned to the ship.

Dec. 13th.—Three boats were sent to Kiriam to
procure more cocoa-nuts. There being no prohibi-
tion of landing, I remained on shore during the
bartering, sitting in a shady place among a group of
women and children, and employed in procuring
materials for a vocabulary. Most of them remem-
bered me of old, and in consequence fancied they
had a claim upon my tobacco, the stock of which
was quickly exhausted.

The huts of Darnley Island—together with the
inhabitants—have been so fully described in the
voyage of the Fly, that it is unnecessary for me to

48 HUMAN SKULLS OFFERED FOR SALE.

enter upon the subject. The natives always objected
to shew to us the inside of their huts, many of which
we knew were used as dead houses—but Mr. Huxley
to-day was fortunate enough to induce one of them
to allow him to enter his house, and make a sketch of
the interior, but not until he had given him an axe as
an admission fee. These huts resemble a great bee-
hive in shape—a central pole projects beyond the
roof, and to this is connected a frame work of
bamboo, thatched with grass, leaving a single
small low entrance to serve as door and window.
Several human skulls were brought down for sale,
also a little shrivelled mummy of a child. Some of
the former had the skin quite perfect, the nose
artificially restored in clay mixed with a resinous
substance, and the orbits occupied by a diamond-
shaped piece of mother-of-pearl, with a black central’
mark. Towards the end of the bartering the natives
had become very noisy, and even insolent, and
everything seemed to indicate that some at least of
them were dissatisfied, and inclined to resent some
injury or cause of offence, for which purpose appa-
rently they had their bows and arrows ready, and
their gauntlets upon the left fore arm. Some of
them desired me to get into the boat and be off,
intended as I understood for a friendly caution,
while Dzim came up with an air of profound
mystery, wishing me to come with him (now that I
was alone) to a neighbouring hut to see a barit
which he had brought over for me from Stephens

DZUM AND THE BARIT. 49

Island. This name is applied to the opossums of the
genus Cuscus which the Torres Strait Islanders
occasionally procure from New Guinea. However
it was time for me to be off, so I contented myself
with promising a large reward for the animal if
taken off to the ship. The produce of our barter on
this and previous occasions amounted to 467 cocoa-
nuts, 8388 pounds of yams* (then very scarce), and
159 pounds of bananas.

While at dinner news was brought that Dzim
was under the stern in a canoe, shouting out loudly
for Dzdka, and, on going up I found that he had
brought off the darit, which, after a great deal of
trouble, I struck a bargain for, and obtained. It
was a very fine specimen of Cuscus maculatus, quite
tame, and kept in a large cage of split bamboo.
Dzim seemed very unwilling to part with the
animal, and repeatedly enjomed me to take great
care of it and feed it well, which to please him I
promised to do, although I valued it merely for its
skin, and was resolved to kill it for that purpose at
my first convenience. He had also brought a
basketful of yams of an inferior quality, as sea
stock for the barit during the voyage, and promised
more on the following morning.

Dec. 16th—Two days ago we left Darnley
Island for Bramble Cay, distant about thirty miles

* Not less than nine different kinds of yams and yam-like
tubers—including the sweet potato—are cultivated in Torres
Strait, and are specially distinguished by name.

VOL. II. E

50 ANCHOR OFF BRAMBLE CAY.

N.E., but owing to calms and light winds had to
anchor twice. A strong N.W. breeze which came
on last night, and caused us to drag the stream
anchor, at length brought us up to our destination,
near which we anchored in 25 fathoms, sand, the
island bearing N.W. 3 W. distant a mile and a
quarter. In the afternoon I landed for an hour,
passing many turtle on the water both going and
returning. As usual the islet was covered with sea
birds, only two species, however, of which were
breeding. The Brown Booby (Sula fusca) and a
large tern (Thalasseus Pelecanoides) existed in about
equal numbers; the latter, in one great colony, had
laid their solitary large speckled eggs in a slight
excavation in the sand, the former were scattered
all over the island, and had regular nests of weed,
containing either two eggs, or a single young bird
covered with white down. Well does the booby
deserve its name. The grotesque and stupid look
of the old bird standing by its eggs or young—
irresolute whether to defend them or not, and
staring with an intensely droll expression at the
intruders—is very amusing; at length on being: too
closely approached, it generally disgorges the con-
tents of its stomach—consisting at this time of very
fine flying fish—and after some half shuffling, half
flying movements, manages to get on wing and be
off. As the tern’s ergs were within a short time of
being hatched we broke all we saw in order to
ensure some newly laid ones in a day or two.

CAPTURE MANY TURTLE. 51

We remained at this anchorage for the two fol-
lowing days, during which time the weather was
generally gloomy and unsettled, with occasional
heavy rain. As numerous recent tracks of turtle
upon the sandy beach indicated that the season had
not yet ended, parties were sent on shore to watch
for them after dark, and although only one was taken
on the first night, yet on the following not less than
eighteen were secured and brought off: fifteen of
them were of the green, and three of the hawksbill
kind. The last, I believe, is undescribed: it is
certainly not the one (Caretta imbricata) producing
the greater part of the tortoise-shell of commerce,
and which is not rare in Torres Strait, distinguished
by having the posterior angle of each dorsal plate
projecting, so as to give a serrated appearance to
the margin of the carapace which, in the present
species is quite smooth. The green turtle averaged
350 Ibs. each, and the hawksbills about 250 Ibs.
Although a strong prejudice existed against the
hawksbill as an article of food, we all found reason
to change our minds, and pronounce it to be at least
equal to the other. The newly hatched turtle (all
hawksbills) were running about inevery direction, and
among their numerous enemies, I was surprised to
see a burrowing crab ( Ocypoda cursor) which runs
with great swiftness along the sandy beaches.
These crabs even carried off a plover which I had
shot, not allowing more than ten minutes to elapse

E 2

52 ARRIVE AT REDSCAR BAY.

before one of them had it safely (as it thought)
stowed away in its burrow.

The golden plover was plentiful on the island
during our visit, and one afternoon I killed fifteen
in about an hour. Two days after the tern’s eggs
had been broken we found a small colony of laying
birds, and picked up some dozens of eggs; and had
we remained a few days longer, doubtless a very
great number might have been procured. The
weed which in the Fly we used to call spinach (a
species of Boérhadvia, apparently B. diffusa,) being
abundant here, was at my suggestion collected in
large quantity for the use of the ship’s company as
a vegetable, but it did not seem to be generally
liked.

Dec. 21st.—Two days ago we left Bramble Cay
for Cape Possession in New Guinea, with a fine
breeze from the N.W., and next morning at day-
light saw the land about the Cape on the weather-
beam. The wind, however, died away in the
afternoon, but this morning a light north-westerly
breeze sprang up, before which we bore up and
were brought in the afternoon to an anchorage in
11 fathoms, mud, half a mile to leeward of the
Pariwara Islands. Meanwhile Lieut. Yule, upon
our destination being changed, was ordered by
signal to proceed to Cape Direction and survey the
intermediate space between that and Redscar Bay,
in order to connect his former continuation of the

WEATHER DURING WESTERLY MONSOON. 53

Fly’s work with ours, and thus complete the coast
line of the whole of the south-east part of New
Guinea.

We remained at this anchorage for upwards of a
week, during which a rate for the chronometers was
obtained, and the Bramble returned. The weather
during our stay was very variable and unsettled ;
rain fell on several occasions. The wind was
usually from the westward, varying between N.W.
and §.W., and on one occasion during the night we
had a sudden and very violent squall from the
westward, which for a time was thought to be the
beginning of a hurricane, but the gale moderated
very gradually next day. When the wind during
the day was light and from seaward, a land breeze
generally came off at night, occasionally with rain.
The cause of this last seems to be the influence ex-
erted upon the winds here by Mount Owen Stanley
and the ranges connected with it, from which the
clouds accumulated during the prevalence of the sea
breeze, are reflected after its subsidence. The low
and well wooded district between the mountains and
the sea receives the passing influence of these
clouds surcharged with moisture, and the climate
there and in all the low maritime districts of the
south-east part of New Guinea backed by high
land, is probably always a moist one, little affected
by the prevalence of either the N.W. or S.E.
monsoon. The observations made during our last
visit to determine the height of Mount Owen

54 PARIWARA ISLAND.

Stanley, and not considered very satisfactory, were
repeated under more favourable conditions, but with
nearly the same result. This mountain, the highest
of the range of the same name, is somewhat
flat-topped (as viewed from our anchorage), about
six miles in length, and the mean of five observations
from different stations, gave 13,205 feet as the
height of the highest part above the level of the
sea.

On the largest Pariwara Island, although
abundance of rain had fallen lately, there was no
water left in any pool or hole in the rock. Nor
although the soil, from the additional moisture,
looked darker and richer than during my former
visit in September, was there any perceptible im-
provement in the vegetation. A few fork-tailed red-
fronted swallows (Hirundo neoxena) were hawking
about, and a large yellow and black butterfly
(Papilio Epius, common in collections from India
and China) was abundant. Many Torres Strait
pigeons were observed from the ship to resort
nightly to the second largest of the group, which is
covered with trees and seems quite inaccessible from
the steepness of its low cliffs. On several successive
evening's about sunset, and until it became too dark
to distinguish them, immense numbers of frigate
birds were observed flymg over Redscar Head, and
going out to the N.N.E. This beg a gregarious
bird only when associated at a breeding place, and
there being no known sand-bank or islet in the

MANY NATIVES VISIT US. 55

direction which they were pursuing, rendered their
object a subject for much conjecture.

We were occasionally visited by parties of
natives, chiefly coming from the northward, probably
from some of the large river mouths known to
exist there. Although in bringing their women
and children off to see the ship they indicated little
suspicion or fear, yet on one occasion only could
we induce any of the men to come on board, and
the two who did so would not be persuaded to go
below, and made their stay very short. As I had
better opportunities of making observations upon
these natives than during our former visit, some
additional information regarding them may be given
here. The inhabitants of Redscar Bay, judging
from what was seen alongside the ship, are rather
smaller in stature than those seen at Dufaure and
Brumer Islands and the Louisiade, but perhaps
more frequently shew handsome features and good
expression. Neither were there any men exceeding
the rest in height by even three inches, as had often
been the case in other places. They are usually
of a very light copper colour, but one man was of
a very pale yellow and much resembled a Chinaman
in hue; although it may at first appear strange,
yet this pale-skinned individual by his very colour
excited feelings of disgust in the minds of some of
us, such as would be created by the sight of a person
whose body was covered with a loathsome eruption
and who still publicly exposed it. And why should

56 PIGTAILS AND TATOOING.

not our pale faces be regarded by these savages
in a similar light? Some had perfect Malayan
features, but none seen on this occasion appeared to
practise betel-chewing,—a remarkable circumstance,
since the men who on our former visit came off to
the ship, then only about fifteen miles to the north-
west, had their teeth discoloured.

None of the natives had any hair upon the face ;
various ways of dressing that of the head were prac-
tised, the most singular of which has already been
described at p. 297 of Vol. I. The hair was usually
of its natural dark colour at the base, with the re-
mainder dyed reddish brown and frizzled out into a
mop with long-toothed combs of wood or tortoise-
shell. One child had the head so shaved as to leave
a long tuft on the forehead, and another on the back
of the head—precisely in the same manner as is
sometimes practised in Java. Nor must I omit
noticing a singular appendage formerly alluded to—
analogous to the pigtail once in vogue—worn by
many of these people; it is formed of human hair
wrapped round with twine, and ends in one or more
bunches of shells, dog’s teeth, and tails of pig's,—the
longest one which I saw measured twenty-one inches
in length. Among numerous ornaments the most
common is a large round concave portion of melon
shell, sometimes beautifully inlaid with filagree work
of tortoise-shell, worn on the breast. Fillets of
cassowary feathers, fur of the spotted bare-tailed
opossum, or woven stuff studded with shells, were
often seen.

DRESS AND ARMS. 57

Painting the face or body does not seem to be
practised here, but the men are usually tatooed on
the breast, cheeks, forehead, and arms, also occa-
sionally on other places. Their tatooing, however,
is much fainter and less profuse than among the
women, every visible part of whose skin is generally
marked with a great variety of patterns, the most
usual style among them consisting in series of double
parallel or converging lines an inch or more apart,
the intervals being occupied by small figures, or
irregular lines, with detached rectilinear figures.
fancifully filled up. The women wear a petticoat of
shreds of pandanus leaf, plaited above into a waist-
band and below reaching nearly to the knee.

They brought off little with them for barter
besides bows and arrows, and as before appeared
perfectly ignorant of the use of iron. A few cocoa-
nuts, plantains, and mangos were obtained from
them, but they had no yams. Nearly every canoe
which came alongside contained several large baked
earthen pots of good construction, some with wide,
others with narrow mouths, and a third sort shaped
like a saucer. Besides bows and arrows, we saw
many spears, mostly of small size and usually finely
jagged or barbed towards the end, but of very
inferior workmanship, also some shields, one of
which may be described.* It measures 38 inches
in length by 14 in width, and in shape resembles a
fiddle, being rounded at the ends and slightly

* Figured at p. 279, vol. i.

58 SINGLE AND DOUBLE CANOES.

contracted in the middle; it is made of wood,
three-fourths of an inch thick, neatly covered with
fine cane matting, fitting very tightly.

The canoes seen here are either single or double,
in the latter case consisting merely of two lashed
together, usually without an outrigger. The single
canoes vary in length from 20 to 80 feet, and carry
from five to a dozen people. Hach end tapers to a
sharp projecting point longer at the bow. The
outrigger frame consists of five poles laid across the
gunwale in grooves, and the float, which is rather
less than half the length of the body of the canoe,
is secured to the ends of each by three pegs, a foot
in length. The opposite ends of the outrigger poles
project beyond the side only a few inches, and are
secured by lashing of cane to a piece crossing them ;
the gunwale is further strengthened by slender poles
running along it from end to end. A small portion
only of the outrigger frame is converted into a
platform by a few loose poles or a plank or two:
some of the latter were as much as two feet in
width, and only an inch in thickness, and must
have been cut with stone axes out of a log of wood.
The largest canoe seen was judged to be thirty-five
feet in length, with a width at the bow of four and
a half feet, but this far exceeded in bulk any of the
other single ones. Like the rest it essentially
consisted of the hollowed out trunk of a tree. All
the heavy canoes are pulled with oars, working in
cane gromets, the others are propelled with paddles.

SAIL FROM REDSCAR BAY. 59

Both oars and paddles have lanceolate blades and
thick handles, without any attempt at ornament or
even neatness of design.

The sail (of pandanus matting) is a long parallelo-
gram, twelve feet by three, its sides secured by two
tough slender poles, between which it is stretched,
and which serve both as masts and yards. In
making’ sail one of the poles is shipped, two stays
from the centre leadmg fore and aft are then set
up, after which the second pole is fixed and secured
by stays, so as to give the sail the requisite inclina-
tion. We frequently saw a second smaller sail set
before the first, at the distance of eight or ten feet,
and managed precisely in the same way, but, even
with both sails set, owing to the disproportion
between the “spread of canvas,” and the bulk of
the canoe, the latter moves slowly at all times, and
on a wind makes much leeway.

Dec. 81st.—We sailed yesterday from our an-
chorage in Redscar Bay, but did not clear the sunken
ridge of coral in the offing—a submarine exten-
sion of the Barrier Reef, stretching between Low
Island and the vicinity of South-west Cape—until
this forenoon, when we got out of soundings. The
Bramble is to remain behind for three or four weeks
upon the coast, to fill up various blanks in the
chart between this and Rossel Island, while we are
to make the best of our way to the Duchateau Is-
lands, to obtain a meridian distance, and thence
proceed direct to Sydney.

60 CLEARNESS OF THE ATMOSPHERE.

Jan. 6th, 1850.—Our passage to the Duchateau
Isles, a distance of less than 400 miles, has been
protracted by the prevalence of light winds, although
these were generally favourable, or from the west-
ward. Occasional calms, squalls, and rain occurred,
but the weather generally was finer than during the
S.E. monsoon. As an instance of the clearness
of the atmosphere, so different from what we
had usually experienced during our former visit
to these shores, it may be mentioned, that on one
occasion during a light breeze from the north-
west we clearly saw Mount Yule (10,046 feet high)
and the summit of Mount Owen Stanley, distant
respectively, one hundred and twenty, and eighty
miles from the ship. On this occasion also we had
a full view of the whole of Mount Astrolabe, which
although 3824 feet in greatest height, and appear-
ing to D’Urville as he ran past to be the highest
land on this portion of the coast, is rendered quite
insignificant by the lofty though distant range be-
hind. Mount Astrolabe differs in character from
any other of the New Guinea mountains seen by us,
indicating a different geological formation. The
summit extends thirteen miles, running parallel with
the coast line and distant from it about eight miles.
Viewed from the south-westward the outline is regu-
lar, exhibiting a series of nearly flat tops with slight
interruptions, but from the southward it appears as a
succession of terraces or projecting cliffs, precipitous
in front near the summit, with a long steep slope

HARBOURS INSIDE THE BARRIER REEF. 61

below, probably of debris, while the flat top slopes
backwards with a very gentle declivity. Owen
Stanley Range again presented quite a different as-
pect as seen on the occasion alluded to, when nearly
one half of its whole length (800 miles) from Mount
Yule to Heath Bay was in full view: the outline was
irregular but never suddenly so, and no peaks or
other remarkable points were seen.

I may mention here in relation to this part of
New Guinea, though not in continuance of the nar-
rative, that the Barrier Reef, beginning (or ending),
at Low Island, is continued to the southward and
eastward for 150 miles, as far as Cape Colombier,
generally following the tread of the coast, at a dis-
tance off it of from three to fifteen miles. A long
strip of apparently navigable water is thus enclosed
between the reef and the shore, with numerous pas-
sages, many of which appeared to be clear to Lieut.
Yule as he passed along close to the outer margin
of the reef. Some good harbours doubtless exist
here; the Bramble passed through Roundhead
Entrance and found good anchorage in fifteen
fathoms immediately inside. The whole of this
extent of coast appeared to be well peopled. On
the western side of Mount Astrolabe, for instance,
numerous villages and patches of cultivated land
were seen from the Bramble.

Both in Redscar Bay and for the first two or
three days after leaving it numbers of sago palms,
some quite recent, were observed on the water, occa-

62 THE SAGO PALM.

sionally with boobies and noddies perched upon
them. These trees had probably grown upon the
banks of the rivers of the bay, and been washed
away by the undermining of the low alluvial banks
on which they grow, and carried out to sea by the
current. Along: several of the fresh-water channels
on the western side of the Great Bight examined by
the Fly’s boats in 1844, I had seen this palm grow-
ing on the margin of the stream in great profusion,
and according to Gi’om, the dis? tree (as she called
it), is occasionally carried by the winds and currents
as far south as the Prince of Wales Islands, when
the natives scoop out the soft spongy inner wood,
wash it well with fresh water, beat it up into a pulp,
separate the farinaceous substance which falls to the
bottom of the vessel, and bake it as bread. On no
part of the coast of New Guinea, however, did we
ever see any of this sago bread, which is known to
constitute the principal food of the inhabitants of
the north-west coast of that great island.*

On one occasion lately the water was discoloured
by a conferva resembling the “sea sawdust” of
Captain Cook, with which it was found to agree
generically in consisting of long filaments joined
together by a softer gelatinous looking substance.

* Forrest endeavours to shew that an acre of ground planted
with 300 sago palms will maintain fourteen men, as each tree
produces 300 pounds of sago flour, when arrived at full maturity
in its seventh year. Voyage to New Guinea and the Moluccas in
1774-6; by Captain Thomas Forrest, 2nd. Ed. p. 44,

SHOOTING PARTY ON DUCHATEAU ISLES. 63

The present species, however, is six times larger
than the more common sort, some of which was
mixed up with it, their diameters, as ascertained by
Mr. Huxley, being respectively 4, and 3+ of an
inch.

To-day we stood in for the Duchateau Isles, and,
rounding them to the westward, anchored in the
afternoon in seventeen fathoms, with the central
island bearing south, distant one mile.

Jan. 7th.—Along with a shooting party I landed
soon after daylight on the westernmost Duchateau
Island. Numbers of Nicobar pigeons left the
island as we approached, having apparently used it
merely as a roosting place. Heavy showers and
thunder clouds passed over at intervals during the
whole morning, rendering our shooting not quite so
successful as it might have been; still we pro-
cured about fifty pigeons and a few of Duperrey’s
megapodius. In habits this last bird resembles the
Australian species, especially in constructing enor-
mous mounds for the reception of its eggs. Those
which I saw averaged five feet in height and fifteen
in diameter, and were composed of the sandy soil of
the neighbourhood, mixed up with rotten sticks and
leaves, but without any shells or coral. Some were
placed on the outer margin of the thickets close to
the beach, and others were scattered about more
inland. As several of these mounds shewed indica-
tions of having lately been opened by the birds, I
entertained hopes of being able to procure an ere,

64 HABITS OF DUPERREY’S MEGAPODIUS.

but after digging several pits three feet in depth,
with no more efficient implements than my hands,
I had to give up the work from sheer exhaustion.
This bird is apparently very pugnacious at times,
as I frequently saw them chasing each other along
the ground, running with great swiftness, and ut-
tering their cry more loudly than usual, stopping
short suddenly and again starting off in pursuit.
The cry consists of one or two shrill notes, uttered
at intervals and ending in a hurried tremulous cry
repeated five or six times. The noise made by this
megapodius while scratching among the dead leaves
for food may sometimes be imitated with such suc-
cess as to bring the bird running up within gunshot.
When suddenly forced to rise from the ground it
flies up into a tree, and remains there motionless,
but exceedingly vigilant, ready to start on the ap-
proach of any one, but on other occasions it trusts
to its legs to escape. Its food is entirely procured
on the ground, and consists of insects and their
larvee (especially the pupe of ants), small snails,
and various fallen seeds and fruits. Although a
great number of the Nicobar pigeons had left, many
yet remained, and the whole island resounded with
their cry mixed up with the cooing of the Nutmeg
pigeon. Little skill is required in shooting these
birds, for they generally admit of very close ap-
proach, as if trusting to the chance of being over-
looked among the dense foliage.

Jan. 8th.— During the night a party of natives

ARE VISITED BY NATIVES. 65

in five canoes came over from the Calvados Group,
and first attracted our attention by making several
fires on the middle and easternmost islands. Soon
after daybreak they came alongside in their usual
boisterous manner. A few words of their language
which ‘were procured proved to be of great interest
by agreeing generally with those formerly obtained
at Brierly Island, while the numerals were quite
different and corresponded somewhat with those of
my Brumer Island vocabulary. Two of the canoes—
one of which carried sixteen people—were large and
heavy and came off under sail, tacking outside of us
and fetching under the ship’s stern. In these large
canoes the paddles are of proportionate size and
very clumsy,—they are worked as oars with the aid
of cane gromets,—the sail is of the large oblong
shape formerly described. One of the canoes was
furnished with a small stage above the platform for
the reception of a large bundle of coarse mats, six
feet long and two-and-a-half broad, made by inter-
lacing the leaflets of the cocoa-palm; these mats
are probably used in the construction of temporary
huts when upon a cruise.

Although rather a better sample of the Papuan
race than that which we had lately seen at Redscar
Bay, there was no marked physical distinction be-
tween these inhabitants of the Louisiade and the New
Guinea men. The canoes, however, are as different
as the language; here, as throughout the Archi-
pelago, the canoes have the semblance of a narrow

VOL. II. P

66 SAIL FOR SYDNEY.

coffin-like box, resting upon a hollowed out log, the
bow having the two characteristic ornaments of the
tabiira, or head-board, and the crest-like carved
wood work running out along the beak. Some of
the natives were recognised as former visitors to the
ship. Nearly all were painted, chiefly on the face,
the favourite pattern being series of white bars and
spots on a black ground. Except their ornaments
and weapons, they had little to give us for the iron
hoop so much in request with them; only a few
cocoa-nuts, and scarcely any yams were obtained,
and to the latter they attached a much higher value
than formerly.

At length the natives left us, three canoes making
to the northward, and two returning to the Ducha-
teau Isles. Morning observations for rating the
chronometers having been obtained, we got under
weigh soon afterwards, and, bidding farewell to the
Louisiade Archipelago, commenced our voyage to
Sydney.

Our daily average progress during the passage
to Sydney (which occupied a period of twenty-eight
days), was less than fifty miles. The winds for the
first few days, or until beyond the influence of the
land, were light and variable, shifting between S.W.
and N.E. by the northward, and accompanied by
occasional squalls and rain, It became a matter of
difficulty to determine when we got into the south-
east trade; it was not until we had reached latitude
20° S. that the wind—light on the preceding day,

REEFS OF THE CORAL SEA. 67

but on this strong, with squalls and rain,—appeared
steady between E.S.E. and §.8.E. and this carried
us down to Sandy Cape. In traversing the Coral
Sea, the numerous detached reefs were so carefully
avoided that we saw none of them,—thus in one
sense it is to be regretted that the passage through
them of a surveying vessel, with seventeen chrono-
meters on board, was productive of no beneficial
result by determining the exact position of any one
of these dangerous reefs, most of which are only
approximately laid down upon the charts.*

The most important practical result of Capt. Stan-
ley’s survey of the Louisiade Archipelago and the
south coast of New Guinea, was the ascertaining
the existence of a clear channel of at least 30 miles
in width along the southern shores of these islands,
stretching east and west between Cape Deliverance
and the north-east entrance to Torres Strait-—a
distance of about 600 miles. This space was so
traversed by the two vessels of the expedition with-
out any detached reefs being: discovered, that it does
not seem probable that any such exist there, with
the exception of the Eastern Fields of Flinders, the

* About this time a new reef was discovered during the pas-
sage from Cape Deliverance to Sydney of H.M.S. Mceander,
Capt. the Hon. H. Keppel. While this sheet was passing through
the press, I saw an announcement of the total wreck upon
Kenn Reef—one of those the position of which is uncertain
—of a large merchant ship, the passengers and crew of which,
33 in number, fortunately however, succeeded in reaching More-
ton Bay in their boat—a distance of 400 miles.

F 2

68 PRACTICAL RESULTS OF THE SURVEY.

position and extent of which may be regarded as
determined with sufficient accuracy for the purposes
of navigation, and the reefs alluded to at p. 288
of Vol. I., which, if they exist at all, and are not
merely the Eastern Fields laid down far to the
eastward of their true position, must be sought for
further to the southward. The shores in question
may now be approached with safety, and vessels
may run along them either by day or night under
the guidance of the chart—without incurring the
risk of coming’ upon unknown reefs, such as doubt-
less exist in other parts of the Coral Sea further to
the southward—judging from the occasional dis-
covery of a new one by some vessel which had
got out of the beaten track. Whalers will no doubt
find it worth their while—with the characteristic
enterprise of their class—to push into those parts of
the Coral Sea now first thrown open to them, and,
although we have not as yet sufficient grounds to
warrant the probability of success in the fishery,
yet I may mention that whales were seen on several
occasions from both of our vessels.

This naturally originates the question—to what
extent do the Louisiade Archipelago and the south-
east coast of New Guinea afford a field for commer-
cial enterprise? What description of trade can be
established there by bartering European goods for
the productions of these countries? Unfortunately
at present most of the evidence on this point is of
a negative kind. Besides articles of food, such as

USEFUL PRODUCTIONS OF NEW GUINEA. 69

pigs, yams, and cocoa-nuts, and weapons and orna-
ments of no marketable value,—tortoise shell, flax,
arrow root, massoy bark, and feathers of the birds
of paradise were seen by us, it is true, but in such
small quantities as to hold out at present no induce-
ment for traders to resort to these coasts for the
purpose of procuring them. That gold exists in
the western and northern portions of New Guinea
has lone been known, that it exists also on the
south-eastern shores of that great island is equally
true, as a specimen of pottery procured at Redscar
Bay contained a few small laminar grains of this
precious metal. The clay in which the gold is im-
bedded was probably part of the great alluvial
deposit on the banks of the rivers, the mouths of
which we saw in that neighbourhood, doubtless
originating in the high mountains behind, part of
the Owen Stanley Range.

It is evident, however, that our acquaintance with
the productions of a great extent of coast line upon
which we never once landed must be very slight,
but with that little we must be content until some
more complete exploration of the shores, which were
only cursorily examined, and especially of the rivers
of the Great Bight—which seem to offer a ready
means of penetrating far into the interior of New
Guinea—shall have been effected. That an expedi-
tion with this end in view will soon be undertaken
is, however, highly improbable, the survey of the
Rattlesnake having completed all that was requisite

70 GEOLOGICAL REMARKS.

for the immediate purposes of navigation in those
parts.

The fact of the existence of several active volcanoes
on islands immediately adjacent to the north coast
of New Guinea (first made known by Dampier), and
the circumstance of volcanic bands traversing the
length of many of the great islands of the Malayan
Archipelago, and others as far tothe southward as New
Caledonia and New Zealand, rendered it extremely
probable that we should have found indisputable
signs of comparatively recent volcanic action in the
south-east part of New Guinea. We saw no vol-
canoes, however, and the great central mountain
chain appeared to me to be probably granitic. The
large Brumer Island is composed of igneous rocks
as formerly mentioned ; and at Dufaure Island I
obtained from some canoes which came off to us a
few smooth water-worn pieces of hornblendic por-
phyry. Some specimens of obsidian, or volcanic glass,
were also procured from the natives at the latter
place, where sharp-edged fragments are used for
shaving with; one variety is black, another of a
light reddish-brown, with dark streaks. Mount
Astrolabe is apparently of trap formation, as I have
already stated. Some conical hills scattered along
the coast may possibly be of volcanic origin, especially
one of that form rising to the height of 645 feet
from the low land behind Redscar Head. It is in
this neighbourhood also that we find the upraised
calcareous rocks of modern date exhibited by the

LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO. 71

Pariwara Islands and the neighbouring headland,
with which they were probably once continuous ;
near this, too, the barrier reef of the coast ceases at
Low Island, which it encloses, although its line is
continued under water, as a ridge of coral, as far as
the South-west Cape, where the coral ends, unless
the shoals apparently blocking up the channel south
of Yule Island are of the same formation.
Reference to the outline chart will enable the
reader to follow me in some general remarks which
did not properly enter into the narrative. The
Louisiade Archipelago, reduced to what I conceive
to be its natural limits, includes that extensive group
of islands comprised between the parallels of 10° 40’
and 11° 40’ §. latitude, and the meridians of 151°
and 154° 80’ E. longitude. About eighty are already
known, and probably many others remain yet to be
discovered in the north-west, a large space there
being as yet a blank upon the chart. All the islands
of the group, with the exception of the low ones of
coral formation to the westward, appear to be in-
habited, but probably nowhere very densely, judging
from the comparatively small number of natives
which we saw, and the circumstance of the patches
of cultivation beg small and scattered, while the
greater part of the large islands is either covered
with dense forest, or exhibits extensive grassy tracts
with lines and clumps of trees. Such of the islands
as were examined consisted of mica slate, the line of
direction of the beds of which is nearly the same as

72 THE CORAL REEFS OF THE

that of the Archipelago itself, and the physical
appearance of the other islands leads me to believe
that the same rock prevails there also.

One of the most remarkable features connected
with the Louisiade Archipelago is the manner in
which its shores are protected by the coral reefs
which have frequently been alluded to in the pre-
ceding pages. The principal of these are good
examples of that kind distinguished by the name of
barrier reefs. Rossel Reef has already been de-
scribed, and the only other large one of this descrip-
tion which we saw more than a portion of, is that
partially encircling South East Island at a variable
distance from the land, then passing to the westward
as far as long. 152° 40’, where it ceases to shew
itself above water; thence, however, the edge of a
bank of soundings (represented on the chart by a
dotted line) which is suddenly met with in coming
from the deep blue unfathomed water to the south-
ward, can be traced in a continued line to the west-
ward as far as the Jomard Isles, whence it turns
round to the northward for ten miles further, where
our examination ended. This last may be con-
sidered as a submarine extension of the barrier, which
probably reappears again above water, and passing
to the northward of the Calvados Group, reaches as
far as the northern entrance to Coral Haven, enclos-
ing nearly all the high islands of the Archipelago.
The expanse of water inside when not occupied by
land usually exhibits a depth of from 15 to 80

LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO DESCRIBED. 73

fathoms, with numerous sunken patches of coral,
and several reefs which partially dry at low water.
The shores of the islands also are generally protected
by fringing coral reefs, the largest of which is that
extending off the west and south side of Piron Island
to a distance of seven or eight miles, with a well
defined border towards Coral Haven.

At the western portion of the Louisiade Archi-
pelago the reefs seen by us exhibit great irregularity
of outline, continuity, and width. Some are linear
reefs, others atolls* more or less distinct in cha-
racter, and the remainder are usually round or oval.
Viewed as a whole they form an interrupted chain,
with numerous deep water channels, which termi-
nates in the West Barrier Reef of the chart, but is
connected with the coast of New Guinea by a bank
of soundings, with, probably, a well-defined margin.
Many low, wooded islands are scattered along this
line. I know of no distinguishing feature presented
by the coral reefs of the Louisiade compared with
those which I have seen elsewhere. One remark-
able occurrence, however, connected with them, may
be mentioned. While passing in the ship the most

* ¢ An atoll differs from an encircling barrier reef only in the
absence of land within its central expanse; and a barrier reef
differs from a fringing reef in being placed at a much greater
distance from the land with reference to the probable inclination
of its sub-marine foundation, and in the presence of a deep water
lagoon-like space or moat within the reef.”—The Structure and
Distribution of Coral Reefs, by C. Darwin, p. 146.

74 THEORY OF THEIR FORMATION.

northern point of Rossel Island, I observed upon
the reef, about a hundred yards inside its outer
border, a series of enormous insulated masses of
dead coral rising like rocks from the shallow water.
The largest of these, examined through a good
telescope from the distance of half a mile, was about
twenty feet in length and twelve in height, with a
well-defined high water mark. It formed quite a
miniature island, with tufts of herbage growing in
the clefts of its rugged sides, and a little colony of
black-naped terns perched upon the top as if incu-
bating. I had only once before seen a similar
exhibition of such great and permanently elevated
masses of dead coral upon a living reef—a pheno-
menon of much interest in connexion with Mr.
Darwin’s theory of the mode of formation of coral
reefs. This was on a portion of the Great Barrier
Reef of Australia, visited in company with Mr.
Jukes, who has published a detailed account of it.*
In both cases the only obvious explanation is that
these huge blocks—too massive to have been hove
up from deep water into their present position by
any storm—reached their present level by the ele-
vation of the sea bottom on which they were
formed.

Before quitting the subject of the coral reefs of
the Louisiade I may be permitted to express my
conviction of the perfect manner in which many,

* Voyage of H.M.S. Fly, by J. B. Jukes, vol. i. p. 340.

ETHNOLOGY OF NEW GUINEA. 75

perhaps all of the appearances which they present
may be satisfactorily accounted for by the appli-
cation of Mr. Darwin’s theory. We have only to
presume the whole of the Archipelago to have
once formed part of New Guinea :—a supposition
highly probable in itself (suggested even by a care-
ful examination of the large charts), and strengthened
by the total absence of signs of volcanic agency in
what the theory in question would require to be an
area of subsidence as opposed to those of elevation,
such as are known to exist in parts of New Guinea.

The ethnology of New Guinea is involved in so
much confusion and obscurity for the want of suffi-
cient data, that even with the aid of some additional
recently acquired information bearing upon the sub-
ject, I wish the following brief remarks to be
regarded more as probable assumptions than as
views the correctness of which admits of demon-
stration. Besides, to give all the proofs, such as
they are, would cause much repetition of what has
been already stated in the foregoing pages.

I must premise that most of our previous definite
information regarding the inhabitants of New
Guinea applies only to a small portion of the north-
west coast of that great island in the neighbourhood
of Port Dorey, which is known to be peopled by
several distinct varieties of mankind, of which one
(with which, as occupying the coast, we are best
acquainted) is designated the Papuan, or Papua, as
generally understood by that appellation when used

76 NATIVES OF NORTH-WEST COAST.

in its most restricted signification. These Papuans,
according to Dumont d’Urville,* compose the prin-
cipal part of the population of Port Dorey, and,
judging from his description, I have no hesitation
in referring to them also the inhabitants of the
Louisiade Archipelago and the 8.1. coast of New
Guinea, and agree with Prichard (in opposition to the
views of others) that they “ constitute a genuine and
peculiar tribe.”

Another variety among the inhabitants of Port
Dorey, spoken of by M. d@’Urville as the Harfours,
is supposed by him to include, along with another
race of which little is known—named Arfaki—
the indigenous inhabitants of the north-west part
of New Guinea. The Harfours, Haraforas, or
Alforas, for they have been thus variously named,
have often been described as inhabiting the interior
of many of the large islands of the Malayan
Archipelago, but, as Prichard remarks, “nothing
can be more puzzling than the contradictory accounts
which are given of their physical characters and
manners. The only poimt of agreement between
different writers respecting them is the circum-
stance that all represent them as very low in civili-
zation and of fierce and sanguinary habits.”{ Their
distinctness as a race has been denied with much
apparent reason by Mr. Earl, and they are con-

* Voyage de l’Astrolabe, tom. iv. p. 603.
+ Researches into the Physical History of Mankind, vol. v.

p. 227. t Ibid. p. 255.

VARIETIES OF THE PAPUAN RACE. 77

sidered by Prichard to be merely various tribes of
the Malayo-Polynesian race retaining their unci-
vilized and primitive state. Be this as it may, of
these Harfours D’Urville states, that they reminded
him of the ordinary type of the Australians, New
Caledonians, and the black race of Oceania, from
their sooty colour, coarse but not woolly hair, thick
beards, and habit of scarifying the body. I men-
tion these Harfours for the purpose of stating that
no people answering to the description of them given
above were seen by us in New Guinea or the
Louisiade Archipelago.

It appears to me that there are two distinct va-
rieties of the Papuan race inhabiting the south-east
portion of New Guinea. The first occupies the
western shores of the Great Bight, and probably ex-
tends over the whole of the adjacent country, along:
the banks of Aird River, and the other great fresh-
water channels. Judging from the little that was seen
of them during the voyage of the Fly, these people
appear to agree with the Torres Strait Islanders—
an offshoot, there is reason to believe, of the same
stock—in being a dark and savage race, the males
of which go entirely naked.

The second variety occupies the remainder of the
south-east coast of New Guinea and the Louisiade
Archipelago. Their characteristics have already been
given in this work, as seen at intermediate points be-
tween Cape Possession and Coral Haven; they agree
in being a lighter coloured people than the preceding,

78 AND THEIR DISTRIBUTION.

and more advanced in civilization: mop-headed,
practising betel chewing, and wearing the breech-
cloth. Without entering into the question of their
supposed origin, I may state that, in some of their
physical, intellectual, and moral characters, and also
partially in their language, they seem to me to shew
indications of a Malayo-Polynesian influence, pro-
bably acquired before their arrival in New Guinea,
along the shores of which they seem to have ex-
tended, colonising the Louisiade during their pro-
gress, which at Cape Possession was finally arrested
by their meeting with the other section of the race
alluded to in the preceding’ paragraph.

It would be curious to see the effects produced at
the point of junction of these two sections of the
same race, probably somewhere between Aird River
and Cape Possession. It is not unlikely that the
Papuans of Redscar Bay and its vicinity derived
the use of the bow and arrow from their neighbours
to the westward,—and that the kind of canoe in use
in Torres Strait was an introduction from the east-
ward, is rendered probable—setting aside other
considerations—by a circumstance suggested by
the vocabularies, i.e. that the name for the most
characteristic part of the canoe in question—the
outrigger float—is essentially the same from the
Louisiade to Cape York.*

* Louisiade, Sama. Darnley Island, Charima.

Dufaure Island, Sarima. _ Prince of Wales Islands, Sarima.
Redscar Bay, Darima. Cape York, Charima.

ORIGIN OF THE AUSTRALIAN RACE. 79

I have alluded in a preceding part of this work
(Vol. I. p. 282) to the circumstance that the small
vocabulary obtained at the Louisiade may, along
with others, throw some light upon the question,
—whence has Australia been peopled ?

It may safely be assumed that the aborigines of
the whole of Australia (exclusive of Van Diemen’s
Land) have had one common origin; in physical
character the natives of Cape York seem to me to
differ in no material respect from those of New
South Wales, South or Western Australia, or Port
Essington,* and, I believe I am borne out by facts
in stating that an examination of vocabularies and
grammars (more or less complete) from widely re-
mote localities, still further tends to prove the unity
of the Australian tribes as a race.

* M. Hombron (attached to D’Urville’s last expedition as
surgeon and naturalist) considers—as the result of personal obser-
vation—that the aborigines of New South Wales exhibit certain
points of physical difference from those of the North Coast of
Australia, meaning, I suppose, by the latter, those natives seen
by him at Raffles Bay and Port Essington. I may also mention
that M. Hombron considers the Northern Australians to bea
distinct sub-division of the Australian race, in which he also
classes the inhabitants of the smaller islands of Torres Strait (as
Warrior Island for instance) attributing the physical ameliora-
tion of the latter people to the fact of their possessing abun-
dant means of subsistence afforded by the reefs among which
they live, and the necessity of possessing well constructed canoes
as their only means of procuring fish and dugong, stated by him
to constitute the chief food of the Torres Strait islanders.— Voyage
au Pole Sud, &c. Zoologie, tom. i. par M. Hombron, p. 313,
314, 317.

80 WHETHER FROM NEW GUINEA OR TIMOR.

The two places from one of which the Australian
population may be supposed to have been more
immediately derived, are Timor on the one hand_and
New Guinea on the other: in the former case the
first settlers would probably have landed some-
where on the north-west coast, in the latter, at
Cape York.

Mr. Eyre believes that there are “ erounds suffi-
cient to hazard the opinion that Australia was first
peopled on its north-western coast, between the
parallels of 12° and 16° S. latitude. From whence
we might surmise that three grand divisions had
branched off from the parent tribe, and that from
the offsets of these the whole continent has been
overspread.”* Proceeding still further Mr. Eyre
has very ingeniously attempted to explain the
gradual peopling of Australia, and even indicate
the probable routes taken by the first settlers during
the long period of years which must have elapsed
before the whole continent was overrun by the
tribes now collectively forming the Australian race.
Dr. Prichard, when alluding to the probable mode
of dispersion of the black tribes of the Indian Ar-
chipelago, conjectures that one of the branches
during the migratory march probably passed from
Java to Timor, and from thence to Australia.t
Dr. Latham also inclines to the belief that Australia

* Journals of Expeditions of Discovery into Central Australia,

&e. by E. J. Eyre, Vol. ii. p. 405.
+ Researches into the Physical History of Mankind, Vol. v.

p. 214.

UNITY OF AUSTRALIAN RACE. 81

was peopled from Timor and not from New Guinea,
judging, in the absence of positive proof, from the
probability that “occupancy had begun in Australia
before migration across Torres Strait had com-
menced in New Guinea,” inferred “from the phy-
sical differences between the” Australian and the
Papuan, taken with the fact that it is scarcely likely
that the Papuans of Torres Strait would have failed
in extending themselves in Australia had that island
been unoccupied.” Timor also is much nearer than
New Guinea to the remote source—assumed to be
the continent of Asia—whence the Australians have
been derived.*

The unity of the Australian race being admitted
implies one common origin, and that such was not
derived from New Guinea, can scarcely, I think,
be doubted. Upon examining the neighbourhood
of the point of contact between the New Guinea-
men and the Australians, we find Cape York and
the neighbouring shores of the mainland occupied
by genuine and unmixed Australians, and the is-
lands of Torres Strait with the adjacent coast of
New Guinea by equally genuine Papuans ; inter
mediate in position between the two races, and
occupying the point of junction at the Prince of
Wales Islands we find the Kowrarega tribe of
blacks. At first I was inclined to regard the last
more as degraded Papuans than as improved Aus-

* Natural History of the Varieties of Man, by R. G. Latham,

M.D. pp. 257, 253.
VOL. II. G

82 JUNCTION OF AUSTRALIAN

tralians: I am now, however, fully convinced that
they afford an example of an Australian tribe so
altered by contact with the Papuan tribes of the
adjacent islands as at length to resemble the latter
in most of their physical, intellectual and moral
characteristics. Thus the Kowraregas have acquired
from their island neighbours the art of cultivating the
ground, and their superior dexterity in constructing
and navigating large canoes, together with some
customs—such as that of preserving the skulls of
their enemies as trophies: while they retain the use
of the spear and throwing stick, practise certain
mysterious ceremonies connected with the initiation
of boys to the rights of manhood—supposed to be
peculiar to the Australian race—and hold the
females in the same low and degraded position
which they occupy throughout Australia.

That the Kowraregas settled the Prince of Wales
Islands either prior to or nearly simultaneously with
the spreading downwards from New Guinea of the
Papuans of the islands, scarcely admits of absolute
proof: but that the former have existed as a tribe
for a long period of years is shewn by the changes
which I presume to have taken place in their lan-
guage. While this last unquestionably belongs to
the Australian class, as clearly indicated by Dr.
Latham’s analysis of the pronouns,* one of the
characteristic parts of the language, and, therefore,
least liable to change, yet the occurrence in the
Kowrarega of a considerable number of words re-

* See the Appendix.

AND PAPUAN RACES. 83

sembling: and often identical with those of the known
Papuan languages of Torres Strait,* and which I
believe to have been derived from the latter, seems to
indicate a degree of long continued intercourse be-
tween the two races: for changes in language to so
great an extent are not effected in a short space
of time any more than the nearly complete fusion of
two different races which has evidently. taken place
at the Prince of Wales Islands. Scarcely opposible
to this supposition is the extreme improbability that
the Papuans, who had nothing to gain from so
comparatively inferior a race as the Australian,
should be indebted to the latter for the words com-
mon to both found to exist in the Kowrarega and
Miriam languages.

Another mode of procedure suggests itself to one
endeavouring to trace the proximate origin of the
Australians—and that is, to search the records of
voyagers and others for any traces of such customs,
the use of certain implements, &c., as are supposed
to be most characteristic of these people. Yet,
taking, for example, the boomerang t and throwing

* As means of comparison I used the Darnley and Murray
Island vocabulary given in Jukes’ Voyage of the Fly, also a
MS. one of my own, which furnishes some additional particu-
lars; some words from Massid given by Jukes; and a few from
Mount Ernest procured by myself.

+ Some of the “fowling sticks’? of the ancient Egyptians
closely resemble the boomerang in form and appear to have been
used in a similar manner, but I am not aware that anything

approaching it has been seen elsewhere. A specimen which

G 2

84 THROWING STICK AND BOOMERANG.

stick,* we find nothing approaching to either of
these instruments in any part of New Guinea yet
visited by Europeans: in the absence of any evi-
dence to the contrary from Timor, they may be
considered as true Australian inventions; and as-
suming the Australians to be the descendants of
a colony from Timor, the circumstance of the natives
of Melville Island—a part of Australia distant only
200 miles from their presumed place of origin—
being ignorant of the use of the throwing stick,
is in favour of part of this supposition. But a
thorough investigation of the question of the origin
of the Australian race, and their dispersion over the
continent, although now I believe rendered quite
practicable by the great mass of additional informa-
tion contributed by voyagers and travellers since
Mr. Eyre wrote upon the subject, is not consistent
with the objects of this work.

suggested this remark is exhibited in the British Museum—
Egyptian Room, Case 36, 37, No. 5646.

* The throwing stick is completely represented in the Aleutian
Islands, (See in Ethnographical Room of British Museum, a
specimen in case 16): in shape it differs from the Australian
ones, (which themselves vary in different localities,) but the
principle of construction and mode of use are precisely the same.
In the islands of Tanna and New Caledonia a contrivance is in
use to, produce the same effect as the throwing stick in propelling
the spear; but, apart from other considerations, the nature of the
instrument (a piece of stiff plaited cord six inches long, with an
eye in one end and a knot at the other) is such as quite to
preclude the probability of the Australians having derived their
throwing stick from this source.

CHAPTER ITI.

DEATH OF CAPTAIN STANLEY—SAIL FOR ENGLAND — ARRIVE
AT THE BAY OF ISLANDS—KORORAREKA—FALLS OF THE
KERI-KERI— PASSAGE ACROSS THE SOUTH PACIFIC — OCEANIC
BIRDS—STAY AT THE FALKLAND ISLANDS—SETTLEMENT OF
STANLEY—CALL AT BERKELEY SOUND—LASSOING CATTLE—
RESUME OUR HOMEWARD VOYAGE—CALL AT HORTA IN THE
AZORES—THE CALDEIRA OF FAYAL—ARRIVE IN ENGLAND.

Soon after our arrival in Sydney we had to
lament the loss of our much respected commander,
who died suddenly on March 13th, while apparently
convalescent from a severe illness contracted during
our last cruise,—induced, I understand, by long con-
tinued mental anxiety, and the cares necessarily
devolving upon the leader of an expedition such as
ours, of which probably no one who has not been
similarly situated can ever fully comprehend the
responsibility. Thus died at the early age of thirty-
nine, but after the successful accomplishment of the
chief objects of his mission, Captain Owen Stanley,
who had long before won for himself an honourable
name in that branch of the naval service to which
he had devoted himself, and whose reputation as a
surveyor and a man of science stood deservedly
high. Although it would ill become me as a civilian
attached to the expedition to enter upon the services*

* See O’Byrme’s Naval Biographical Dictionary, p. 1109.

&6 SAIL FOR ENGLAND.

and professional character of my late captain, yet
in common with many others, I cannot refrain from
adding my humble testimony to his worth, by
recording my deep sense of many personal favours,
and the assistance which was always liberally ren-
dered me during my natural history investigations
throughout the voyage, whenever the more impor-
tant objects of the survey permitted.

By this unfortunate event all previous arrange-
ments regarding our future proceedings were
annulled. It had been intended by Captain Stanley
to return to England by way of Singapore and the
Cape of Good Hope, adding to the charts of the
Inner Passage as we went along the east coast of
Australia, and making a careful survey of the Strait
of Alass, between the islands of Lombock and
Sumbawa. Captain the Hon. Henry Keppel of
H.M.S. Mceander, as senior naval officer present,
having appointed Lieutenant Yule to the vacancy
in the command of the Rattlesnake, with orders to
proceed direct to England, we left Sydney for that
purpose on May 2nd. The Bramble was left behind
in the colony, and in addition to her former crew,
the limited accommodations of our ship were still
further crowded with the greater number of the Port
Essington marines, some invalids, and other pas-
sengers, making up the number on board to upwards
of 230 persons.

A course was steered to pass to the northward of
New Zealand without calling there, but shortly

ARRIVE AT THE BAY OF ISLANDS. 87

after leaving Sydney some defects in the ship were
found out, which rendered it necessary to put ito
the nearest port, as the principal one, causing a
leak in the after gunroom, could not be repaired at
sea. It was also considered expedient to get rid of
the Asp in order to lessen the straining of the ship
during the prospective passage round Cape Horn,
which so much top weight was considered mate-
rially to increase. On May 14th the land about
Cape Maria Van Diemen and the North Cape of
New Zealand was in sight at daylight, appearing
high and mountainous, with steep maritime cliffs.
On our passage across from Australia we had seen
few sea birds, but now albatrosses of three or four
species were very numerous, together with a few
petrels, chiefly Procellaria Cookit. Next morning
we found ourselves to leeward of Cape Brett, having
experienced a southerly current during the night
of two knots an hour; it took us the whole day to
work up into the Bay of Islands, and after dark we
anchored in 28 fathoms, about six miles from the
entrance of the Kawa-Kawa.

May 16th.—The view from our anchorage, although
under the favourable conditions of fine weather, struck
me as being dull and cheerless. The surface of the
country is hilly and undulating, shewing patches of
wood more or less extensive, and large tracts of fern
of a dull greenish hue. The shores of the main
land and the numerous islands exhibit every here
and there argillaceous cliffs, and banks of a brown,

88 LAND AT KORORAREKA.

reddish, or yellow colour, from their steepness almost
devoid of vegetation. Inthe morning it was a dead
ealm, but at length a light air sprang up and
carried us into the bay of Kororareka, when we
anchored in 43 fathoms, mud and sand, off the
village of the same name, also known as the town-
ship of Russell.

May 17th.—On landing at Kororareka, one finds
that what from a distance appear neat and comfort-
able cottages lose much by close inspection. The
township consists of about thirty small wooden
houses, mixed up with many native hovels. It
extends along the shore of a small bay, with a
shingly beach in front and aswamp behind. The
number of houses was formerly much greater, most
of those now existing having been built since May
1845, when the greater part of the town was
burnt down by the natives. Even now it supports
two public houses, and several general stores, where
necessaries may be procured at double the Sydney
prices. At one time much trade was done here,
before the duties imposed on the occasion of New
Zealand becoming a British colony drove away the
whalers which used to resort in great numbers to
the Bay of Islands to refit; at present, besides the
Rattlesnake, the only vessel here is a brig from
Hobarton, bound to California, which put in to this
place to get a new rudder. Live stock is plentiful
and the prices are moderate.

There are many natives living in the settlement.

VILLAGE OF KORORAREKA. 89

They afford a striking contrast to the wretched
specimens of Australian aborigines one occasionally
sees in the streets of Sydney. Many of the men
are athletic and well made, and in their gait and
expression exhibit much manliness of character.
The faces of some of the principal people present
good specimens: of elaborate tattoomg. The women
appear strange figures from their ungainly modern
-dress, consisting merely of a loose smock of calico,
fastened at the neck and wrists. Some were toler-
ably handsome (according to our notions of female
beauty), and among them were several half castes.
Their fashion of dressing the hair is curious,—in
front it is cut short in a line across the forehead, but is
allowed to grow long behind. We met Waka Nene,
a Maorie chief, possessing considerable influence,
especially in the neighbouring district of Hokianga,
who, by siding with the English during the war,
rendered such important services that the Govern-
ment rewarded him with a pension of £100 per
annum, and a house in Kororareka. Besides this
he owns a small vessel or two employed in the
coasting trade. I peeped into the hut of one of his
people. A small entrance served the combined
purposes of door, window, and chimney, the roof
was so low as to preclude one from standing upright
inside, a small fire was burning in the centre of the
earthen floor, and a heap of mats and blankets in
one corner pointed out a sleeping’ place.

Behind Kororareka one of a series of hills over-

90 THE MAORIE WAR.

looking the town is memorable as the site of the
flagstaff, the cutting down of which by Heke was
one of the first incidents of the Maorie war. On
March 11th, 1845, an attack was made upon the
place before daylight, by three of the disaffected
chiefs. Kawiti with one division entered the town
from the southward by a pass between two hills, and
after a short conflict forced a party of marines and
seamen from H.M.S. Hazard to retire with the loss
of seven killed and many wounded. While this
work was going on, a small detachment of soldiers
occupying a blockhouse on the flagstaff hill was
surprised by Heke and his party, who killed four
men, and drove away the remainder, and levelled
the flagstaff to the ground. The English residents
took refuge on board the shipping, and two days
afterwards the Maories sacked and burned the town
with the exception of the two churches, and a few
houses contiguous to the property of the Roman
Catholic Mission.

The greater part of the country about the town
is covered with fern and the manuka bush (Leptos-
permum scoparium),—the latter a low shrub with
handsome white or pinkish flowers. In some of
the ravines two species of tree-ferns of the genus
Cyathea grow luxuriantly in the moist clayey soil.
Every where one sees common English weeds scat-
tered about, especially the sow-thistle and common
dock, and a British land shell (Helix cellaria) has
even found its way to New Zealand and is to be met
with in some of the gardens.

ESTUARY OF THE KERI-KERI. 91

Much rain had lately fallen, and many of the
paths were partially converted into water-courses.
I walked across to a neighbouring bay, and employed
myself in searching for shells in the mud at low
water. Some bivalves, common there —various Cy-
theree and Mesodesma Chemnitzii—constitute an
important article of food to the natives, who knew
them by the name of pipi. A marshy place, at the
mouth of a small stream, was tenanted by a curious
wrinkled univalve, with a notch on the outer lip,
Amphibola avellana of conchologists.

May 18th.—I joined a party made up to visit the
falls of the Keri-Keri river, and we started, after an
early breakfast, in one of the ship’s boats. The
morning was dull and rainy, and we had occasional
showers during the forenoon. In an hour after
leaving the ship we entered the estuary of the river,
a large arm of the sea, which we followed for several
miles. The scenery reminded me of that of some of
the sea lochs on the west coast of Scotland, and al-
though fern was here substituted for heath, the
“ Scotch mist” was perfectly represented at the an-
tipodes. The country is scantily wooded, and the
muddy shores are occasionally fringed with a small
mangrove (Avicennia tomentosa). Here and there
were a few settlers’ houses, with the accompanying
signs of cultivation. One of the small islands, and
also a hill top on the northern shore, had an artificial
appearance, their summits being levelled and the

92 FALLS OF THE

sides scarped—they were the remains of former for-
tifiedvillages or pahs. At length the estuary nar-
rowed, and assumed the appearance of a winding
river, with low hilly banks covered with fern and
bushes. One and a half miles from this brought us
to arocky ledge across the stream, preventing further
progress in the boat, and marking the junction of
the fresh and salt water.

Here Mr. Kemp, a schoolmaster of the Church
Mission Society, has been located for upwards of
thirty years. A well built store, a neat cottage and
garden, and residences for a few Maories, complete
the establishment. From this place a dray road
leads to the extensive Missionary establishment at
Waimate, distant about ten miles. Crossing the
river, we started for the falls, in charge of a sharp
little urchin who acted as guide. After leaving the
narrow valley which the river has cut for itself
through a superstratum of yellowish clay, the coun-
try becomes nearly level—a dreary plain, covered
with fern and the manuka bush. The extensive
tract of country now in sight is said to have once
been a great kauri forest——a few of these noble trees
(Dammara Australis) were pointed out to me from
a distance. When about half way we left the road,
and within the distance of a mile our guide contrived
to lead us into five or six bogs, where we were up to
our knees in water, besides entangling us in several
thickets nearly as bad to penetrate as an Australian

KERI-KERI. 938

scrub. At length we arrived in sight of the water-
fall, then in full force from the quantity of rain
which had lately fallen.

The Keri-Keri, after a long course through a
country composed chiefly of upland moors and gently
undulating hills, here suddenly precipitates itself over
a rocky wall into a large circular pool eighty feet
below, then continues its course for a while between
steep and densely wooded banks. Behind the fall
the rock is hollowed out into a wide and deeply
arched cave, formed by the falling out of masses of
columnar rock. A winding path leads to the foot
of the fall, whence the view is very grand. Some
of the party crept over the slippery rocks, and
reached the cave behind the fall, where they were
much gratified with the novelty of the scene. The
luxuriant and varied vegetation in the ravine affords
a fine field for the botanist. The variety of crypto-
gamic plants is very great—every rock, and the
trunk of each tree, being covered with ferns, lichens,
and mosses. Among the trees I noticed the pale
scarlet flowers of the purirt or New Zealand Teak
(Vitex littoralis), the hardest* and most durable

* This wood was much used in the construction of the pahs
which, in 1845, under the Maorie chiefs Heke and Kawiti, long
resisted the attacks of disciplined forces, aided by artillery. In
reference to the puriri wood used in the palisading of one of
these, it was officially stated, that ‘‘ many of our six-pound shot
were picked out of the posts, not having actually entered far
enough to hide themselves.”

94 SAIL FROM NEW ZEALAND.

of all the woods of the country. A short search
among the damp stones and moss brought to light
some small but interesting land shells, consisting
of a pupiform Cyclostoma, a Carocolla, and five
species of Helix. This leads me to mention, that
although the number of New Zealand land shells
hitherto described scarcely exceeds a dozen, this does
not imply any scarcity of such objects in the country,
as an industrious collector from Sydney, who spent
nine months on the northern and middle islands,
obtained nearly a hundred species of terrestrial and
fluviatile mollusca. The scarcity of birds during
our walk surprised me, for the only one which I saw
on shore was a solitary kingfisher (Halcyon vagans):
during our ascent of the Keri-Keri, however, many
ducks (Anas superciliosa) flew past the boat, and
gulls, terns, and two kinds of cormorants were nu-
merous.

Returning to the road by a path which avoided
the swamps our guide had taken us through, in
little more than half an hour we reached Mr. Kemp’s
house, and after partaking of that gentleman’s hos-
pitality returned to the ship. On our way we landed
at sunset for an hour upon a small island, which
will probably long be remembered by some of the
party as having furnished us with a supper of very
excellent rock-oysters.

Having effected the necessary repairs, and dis-
posed of the decked boat, we left New Zealand on
May 22nd on our homeward passage. On July

ROUND CAPE HORN. 95

5th having passed to the eastward of Cape Horn
we bore up for the Falkland Islands, having taken
forty-three days to traverse a direct distance of a
little more than 5000 miles. During this period
the wind was usually strong from the south-west,
but on various occasions we experienced calms and
easterly winds, the latter varying between N.E. and
S.S.E. and at times blowing very hard with snow
squalls. The lowest temperature experienced by us
off Cape Horn was on the day when we doubled
the Cape in latitude 57° 8. when the minimum
temperature of the day was 21° and the maximum
26°. This reminded some of us that we had now
passed through not less than 75 degrees of tempe-
rature in the ship, the thermometer in the shade
having indicated 96° during a hot wind in Sydney
harbour.

A passage such as ours, during which at one
time we were further from land than if placed in
any other portion on the globe, must almost of
necessity be a monotonous one. We saw no land,
not even an iceberg, and very few vessels. For
five or six successive evenings when in the parallels
of 40° and 41° S. between the meridians of 138° and
113° W. we enjoyed the fine sight of thousands
of large Pyrosome in the water, each producing
a greater body of light than I ever saw given out
by any other of the pelagic-luciferous mollusca
or meduse. The towing net was put over on
several occasions but produced little or nothing to

96 PETRELS OF THE SOUTHERN OCEAN.

repay Mr. Huxley for his trouble :—so that even a
naturalist would here find his occupation gone were
it not for the numbers of oceanic birds daily met
with, the observation of whose habits and succession
of occurrence served to fill up many a leisure hour.
It being the winter of the southern hemisphere,
the members of the petrel family, at other times so
abundant in the South Pacific, were by no means so
numerous as I had expected to find them, and in
the higher southern latitudes which we attained
before rounding Cape Horn, albatrosses had alto-
gether disappeared, although they had been abun-
dant as far to the southward as 41°S. The most
widely dispersed were Daption Capensis—the
pintado or Cape-pigeon of voyagers—Procellaria
hasitata, P. cerulea, P. Lessonii, and P. gigantea,
of which the first and second were the most
numerous and readily took a bait towing astern.
It is probable that all these species make the circuit
of the globe, as they are equally distributed over the
South Indian Ocean. Some interesting additions
were made to the collection of Procellariade
(commenced near the equator with Thalassidroma
Leachit), and before leaving the Falklands I had cap-
tured and prepared specimens of twenty-two species
of this highly interesting family, many members of
which until the publication of Mr. Gould’s memoir*
were either unknown or involved in obscurity and
confusion. Among these is one which merits

* Magazine and Annals of Natural History for 1844, p. 360.

THEIR DISTRIBUTION AND FOOD. 97

special notice here, a small blue petrel, closely
resembling P. cerulea, from which it may readily
be distinguished by wanting the white tips to the
central tail feathers. It turns out to be the P.
desolata, known only by a drawing in the British
Museum made more than half a century ago, from
which this species was characterised. When in
lat. 50° 46’ S. and long. 97° 47° W. I saw P.
antarctica for the first time; one or two individuals
were in daily attendance while rounding Cape Horn
and followed the ship until we sighted the Falkland
Islands. I had long been looking out for P.
glacialoides, which in due time made its appearance
—a beautiful light grey petrel, larger than a pigeon ;
it continued with us between the latitudes of 40°
and 58° 8. and occasionally pecked at a baited
hook towing: astern.

One may naturally wonder what these petrels
can procure for food in the ocean to the southward
of 35° south latitude, where they are perhaps more
numerous than elsewhere, and where the voyager
never sees any surface-swimming fishes which they
might pick up? It is, of course, well known that
they eagerly pounce upon any scraps of animal
matter in the wake of a vessel, hence it is reasonable
to suppose that they follow ships for the purpose of
picking up the offal, but they may also be seen
similarly following in the wake of whales and droves
of the larger porpoises. Almost invariably I have
found in the stomach of the many kinds of alba-

VOL. II. H

98 CALL AT EAST FALKLAND: ISLAND.

trosses, petrels, and shearwaters, which I have
examined, the undigested horny mandibles of cuttle-
fish, which would thus appear to constitute their
principal food; and, as all the petrel family are
to a certain extent nocturnal, it seems probable that
the small cuttlefish on which they feed approach
the surface only at night.

July 8th.—Yesterday at noon we passed close
to Beauchéne Island, a dreary, bushless place, half
covered with snow. Vast numbers of pintados
were about, also some albatrosses, the first that
had made their appearance for several weeks back.
In hopes of reaching an anchorage before dark we
stood in for Bull Road, East Falkland Island, but
after running fourteen miles, and sighting Sea-lion
Islands, this was found impracticable. The ship
was kept away to the eastward, and, after wearing
several times during the night to avoid closing the
land, a course was shaped to take us to the settle-
ment. Passing: inside of the Seal Rocks we rounded
Cape Pembroke, on which is a tall beacon, and
anchored at dark inside the entrance to Port
William.

July 9th.—The thermometer fell to 18° during
the night, and the water froze on the decks during
the holystoning. A cold dreary aspect was pre-
sented when the sun rose upon the snow-clad
country around, but the sight of a herd of cattle
on shore conjured up visions of fresh beef and made
ample amends. We beat up Port William, and,

SETTLEMENT OF STANLEY. 99

passing by a narrow channel from the outer to the
inner harbour, or Port Stanley, anchored off the
settlement. We found a solitary vessel lying here—
an English brig bound to California.

The settlement of Stanley was formed in July,
1844, by the removal thither of the former estab-
lishment at Port Louis,—Port William being con-
sidered preferable as a harbour, besides being easier
of access and more conveniently situated for vessels
calling there for supplies. The inner harbour,
which communicates with the outer one by a pas-
sage not more than 800 yards wide, is four and a
half miles in length by half a mile in width, with
anchorage everywhere. The township extends along
the centre of the south shore, as a small straggling
village of wooden houses, the uncompleted residence
of the Lieut.-Governor being the only one built of
stone. The population, I was told, is about 300:
of these thirty are pensioned soldiers, many of whom
with their families are temporarily lodged in a large
barrack, which curiosity one day led me to visit.
Its inmates are all Irish, and appeared to be in any
thing but comfortable circumstances, although such
as work as labourers receive three shillings per diem,
and mechanics are paid in proportion. One of them,
who had served in Van-Diemen’s Land, said he
often envies the lot of a convict there, for “sure
we are fretting to death to think that we have come
to this in our old age after serving our king and
country so long.” They all bitterly complained of

H 2

100 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.

having been deluded at home by highly-coloured
reports of the productiveness of a country where
grain will not ripen, and which has not yet been
found capable of producing a tolerable potato. Of
the remainder of the place little can be said. There
are two good stores where we procured nearly every-
thing we wanted at very moderate prices :—beef
of very fair quality is sold at 2d. per pound, wild
geese at 1s. 3d. each, and rabbits at four shillings
a dozen. The only vegetables, however, were some
small Swedish turnips, which we got by favour.
Lastly, a ship may obtain water here with great
facility from a small reservoir from which a pipe
leads it down to the boat.

We had to remain at Port Stanley for thirteen
days before the necessary observations for deter-
mining the rates of the chronometers could be
obtained. During this period a thaw occurred,
followed by hard frost and another fall of snow,
making the country as bleak and desolate as before.
By all accounts the winter has been unusually
severe. The ground had been covered with snow
for four weeks previous to our arrival, and many
cattle and horses had perished ; I also observed at
the head of the harbour some beds of musséls, most
of which were dead, having doubtless been frozen
when uncovered at low water, The average mean
temperature on board ship during our stay was
38°, the maximum and minimum being’ respectively
37° and 25°.

STEAMER DUCK. 101

I was obliged to content myself with short ex-
cursions, for the inclemency of the weather would
not permit of camping out at night. The appear-
ance of the surrounding country may briefly be
described :—ridges and peaks of grey quartz rock
of moderate elevation form boundaries to shallow
valleys, or become the summits of slopes extending
with gentle declivity towards the shore. The ground
almost everywhere, even on the hills, is boggy, with
numerous swamps, rivulets, and pools. The peat in
some places is as much as six feet in thickness; it
forms the only fuel on the island, for not a single
tree occurs to diversify the landscape, and few of
the bushes exceed a foot in height. The general
tint of the grass and other herbage at this season
is a dull brownish-green. Bays and long winding
arms of the sea intersect the country in a singular
manner, and the shores are everywhere margined
by a wide belt of long wavy sea-weed or kelp
(Macrocystis pyrifera), which on the exposed coasts
often forms immense beds of various species, some
of which attain to gigantic dimensions.

On my first walk I was surprised at the extra-
ordinary tameness of the smaller land birds : a thrush
(Turdus Magellanicus) almost allowed me to knock it
down with my cap, and some other birds were quite
as familiar as our robin in winter—a pair of logger-
head ducks (Brachypterus micropterus) were quietly
pluming themselves on the jetty at government-
house, and others were swimming along shore with-

102 CALL AT BERKELEY SOUND.

in pistol shot of a public road; at first I thought
they were domesticated, and refrained from firing.
The loggerhead is a large and heavy bird for a
duck: one which I shot weighed eighteen pounds,
and it has been recorded as sometimes weighing as
much as twenty-nine pounds. From the dispropor-
tionate smallness of its wings it is meapable of
flicht, but employs these members as paddles in hur-
rying along the surface of the water when alarmed,
using’ its feet at the same time with much splashing
and apparent awkwardness, leaving a broad wake
behind it on the water—hence the not inappropriate
name of steamer which is sometimes applied to it.
Not being fit to eat, and moreover from its strength
and the closeness of its plumage difficult to kill, it
is not much molested by sportsmen. Another bird
very likely to attract attention is the kelp goose
(Bernicla antarctica), generally seen in pairs along
the rocky coasts: the plumage of the male is of a
beautiful white, that of the female is dark and
glossy, variously speckled and barred.

July 24th.—We sailed from Port Stanley yester-
day at daylight, and after entering Berkeley Sound
beat up as far as Hog Island, off which we
anchored at sunset, at a distance from the old
settlement of Port Louis of about two miles and a
half. As the sole object in coming here was to
obtain magnetic observations at the spot used for
that purpose in 1842 by the Antarctic Expedition
under Sir James Ross, for which one day would

LAND REGULATIONS. 108

suffice, we had little time to make excursions in the
neighbourhood. Two parties were made up to shoot
rabbits in some large warrens which have long been
established on the shores of Johnson Harbour and
at the head of Port Darlington, but they met with
very little success. I preferred accompanying Capt.
B. J. Sulivan for the purpose of seeing his gauchos
use the lasso and bolas in catching some cattle re-
quired for the ship. This officer, who formerly
commanded H.M.S8. Philomel, employed for several
years upon the survey of the Falklands, has been
one of the first to avail himself of the proposals
made by Government to develop the resources of
these islands by throwing them open to private
enterprise ; in association with several gentlemen
in England he has set on foot an establishment for
the purpose of curing beef, hides, and tallow, which,
it is expected, will be in full operation in the course
of next year. The terms upon which settlers of the
better class are invited to East Falkland are, I
believe, the following :—the purchaser of a block
of land of a quarter of a square mile at the minimum
price of eight shillings an acre (£64), is entitled to
a lease of 10,000 acres of contiguous land for the
period of twenty years, at the rent of £10 per
annum, with right of pre-emption. Also, according:
to part of an agreement between Government and
Mr. Lafone (an Englishman residing at Monte
Video), by which the latter has acquired a right
to all the wild cattle on the island (estimated at

104 CATTLE ON HOG ISLAND.

80,000 head) until the year 1860, he is bound to
reclaim annually a certain number, and supply
them to purchasers at the fixed rate of thirty shil-
lings a head.

We landed on Hog Island where Capt. Sulivan’s
herd of eleven hundred cattle (besides a number of
horses) had been kept during the winter, supported
chiefly by the tussock grass fringmg the shore,
which they had cropped so closely that, bemg a
perennial plant of slow growth, two years’ rest
would be required to enable it to regain its former
vigour. Large patches of this magnificent grass *—
Dactylis cespitosa of botanists—along the shores of
the main land have been destroyed by the cattle in
their fondness for the nutritious base of the stem, a
small portion of which, as thick as the little finger,
has a pleasant taste and may be eaten by man, to
whom it has occasionally furnished the principal
means of subsistence when wandering in the wilds
of these inhospitable islands. Great numbers of up-
land geese (Chloephaga Magellanica), chiefly in small
flocks, were feeding: on various berries and the tender
grass. Although seldom molested on this island,
they became rather wary after a few shots had been
fired—still a sufficient number to answer our pur-
pose were procured without much difficulty. Unlike

* For a full account of this useful plant, the growth of which
in Britain in certain favourable maritime situations has been at-
tempted on a large scale, I would refer to Botany of the Antarctic
Voyage, by Dr. J. D. Hooker, p. 384, and pl. 136 and 137.

USE OF THE LASSO AND BOLAS. 105

the kelp goose, which has a very rank taste, derived
from its feeding chiefly upon the filmy sea-weeds
covering the tidal rocks, the upland goose is ex-
cellent eating, and formed a welcome addition to
our fare on board. lLogegerheads and other ducks,
cormorants, and grebes, were swimming about
among the beds of kelp, and oyster-catchers of
two kinds, gulls, kelp geese, and many other birds
frequented the shores.

Meanwhile one of the gauchos rode over from
Capt. Sulivan’s establishment on the main by a ford
passable at low water, and was sent back for a com-
panion to assist him in catching the cattle. He
was an old weather-beaten half-bred Pampas Indian
of the name of Escalante, whose capability of
enduring fatigue and privations of every kind were
described as being remarkable even in a gaucho.
At length the cattle were collected and driven up,
and although eight hundred out of those composing
the herd had been reclaimed only three months, yet
the whole were easily managed by the two men on
horseback, who rounded them in without difficulty
upon the summit of a low hill close to the slaughter-
ing place. A fine dun heifer four years old was
the first selected ; it was detached from the herd
after some trouble, and pursued by both gauchos
who, throwing off their ponchos, untwisted the bolas
from round the waist, and, after swinging them
round the head several times, threw them in succes-
sion at the beast’s hind legs but without taking

106 MANNER OF LASSOING.

effect, as each time the animal stumbled for an
instant and the bolas slipped off the legs without
becoming entangled. Stooping as he passed to
pick up the bolas from the ground, Escalante
uncoiled his lasso, and getting upon the cow’s left
flank, drove her at full speed towards the foot of the
hill; when distant about twelve yards from the
chase, he threw the lasso which he had kept
swinging horizontally and slowly round his head for
a few minutes back,—the noose fell over the animal’s
head and neck, catching one of the forelegs, which
was instantly doubled up under the throat by the
drawing of the noose, when the beast staggered and
fell, but rose again immediately on three legs, and
attempted to charge the horse and rider. Catching
one of the forelegs and neck in this manner is con-
sidered the master-stroke in lassoing,, bemg the most
difficult of execution: Capt. Sulivan told me that a
one-armed man at Monte Video, famous for his
skill in lassoing, on one occasion for a wager caught
nine out of ten bullocks in succession after this
fashion. It was admirable to observe the manner
in which the horse eased off the shock of bringing
up an animal much heavier than itself, and by keep-
ing a strain upon the lasso urged the furious beast
onwards to a triangle which had been put up. The
other gaucho, Andrez Pelaluya by name, mean-
while was riding up behind, and at length threw
his lasso over the heifer’s flanks, the slack of the
noose falling down upon the ground,—in throwing

CARRION BIRDS. 107

up her heels the hind legs were dexterously caught,
when in a moment the beast was dragged over on
one side and firmly moored. Leaving the horses to
keep up the strain,—for the lasso is made fast to an
iron ring in the saddle—the riders dismounted, and
Escalante drawing out a long knife from his belt
and renewing the edge upon a steel which he carried
in one boot, quickly despatched the beast. A second
heifer was afterwards picked out from the herd and
caught by the horns; as the animal, maddened with
terror, was gallopped past with the lasso at full
strain, I must confess that being a novice I did not
feel quite comfortable, and instinctively clutched my
gun, not being altogether sure that the lasso might
not break,—but, although no thicker than the little
finger, it is of immense strength, being made of
plaited hide. This beast was secured and butchered
pretty much as in the former instance; the bolas
had been thrown at the hind legs, but caught only
one, round which the three thongs and balls were so
tightly interlaced as to require some patience in
extricating them.

While slaughtering the cattle it was amusing to
notice the familiarity of the carrion hawks, hundreds
of which were collected about, perched upon the
little hillocks all round, watching every movement
of ours, or hovering over-head within the distance
of a few yards. They are the Milvago australis, a
bird of which the sexes differ so much in appear-
ance, that they were pointed out to me as distinct

108 SEA-LION ADVENTURE.

species. The settlers and others call them rooks, and
another very common carrion bird of the vulture
family (Cathartes Aura), is known here as the john-
crow. On board the ship the sight of some quarters
of beef secured to the mizen cross-trees had attracted
numbers of these hawks, and upwards of a dozen
might have been seen at one time perched upon the
rigging, including: one on each truck ; on shore they
made several attacks upona pile of geeselying near the
boat, and although repeatedly driven off with stones,
they returned as often to make a fresh attempt.
July 25th—Yesterday afternoon some of our
people employed in cutting grass upon a small island
close to the ship, stumbled upon a huge sea-lion
asleep in one of the pit-like recesses among the
tussocks. At first it was supposed to be a dead
bullock, but the beast on being disturbed rose upon
his fore flippers, and, displaying a formidable array
of teeth, roared loudly* at the disturbers of his
rest, who, being unarmed, rushed helter-skelter to
the boat and went off to the ship. They returned
immediately with an assortment of pikes, muskets,
and pistols sufficient to ensure the destruction of a
host of sea-lions ; but after cautiously investing the

* “ Sometimes when we came suddenly upon them, or waked
them out of their sleep (for they are a sluggish sleepy animal),
they would raise up their heads, snort and snarl, and look as
fierce as if they meant to devour us; but as we advanced upon
them, they always ran away ; so that they are downright bullies.”
—Cook’s Voyages, Vol. IV. p. 187.

TUSSOCK GRASS ON PEAT ISLAND. 109

place, it was discovered that the beast had very
prudently got out of the way, nor this morning
could he be found by a person who went to make a
second search.

On this—Peat Islet of the chart—the tussock
grass grows in great luxuriance, and to a stranger
presents a most singular appearance. Its clusters of
stems—frequently upwards of a hundred or more
in a bunch—are raised from the ground upon a
densely matted mass of old and decayed roots, two
or three feet high, from the summit of which the
leaves, frequently six feet in length, arch gracefully
outwards. The tussock grass has been likened to a
palm ona small scale, but altogether it reminded
me more of the Xanthorhecea, or grass-tree of Aus-
tralia. We saw many seals swimming about among
the kelp, and on the shore found the carcases of
several which had lately been killed with clubs, each
of the skulls having been fractured by a blow at the
root of the nose. They were of the kind known
here as the hair-seal, the skin of which is of little
value. It is still very abundant; but the fur-seal,
from the indiscriminate slaughter of old and young
for many years back has become scarce, and is now
confined to a few favourite localities—rookeries as
they are called, a name also applied at the Falk-
lands to any great breeding place of penguins or
other sea fowl. A few days ago a party of five
sealers returned to the settlement after a short

110 CONTINUE THE

absence, with the skins of no less than 120 fur-seals,
worth, I was told, twenty-five shillings each.

Here I found two pairs of the sheathbill (Chionis
alba), a bird whose place in the system has puzzled
ornithologists. It has been variously considered as
being one of the gallinaceous birds, the pigeons, the
waders, and even as belonging to the web-footed
order. Its habits are those of the oyster-catchers,*
however different the form of the beak, which in the
sheathbill is short, stout, and pointed, and en-
veloped at the base by a waxy-looking sheath. Its
feet are like those of a gallinaceous bird, yet one
which I wounded took voluntarily to the water and
swam off to a neighbouring point to rejoin its mate.
Cuvier, besides erroneously mentioning that it isa
native of New Holland, states that it feeds. on car-
rion; the stomachs of two which I examined con-
tained sea-weed, limpets, and small quartz pebbles.
The people here call it the rock-dove, and from its
snow-white plumage it forms a conspicuous object
along the shores.

We resumed our homeward voyage on July 25th,
and thirty-six days afterwards crossed the equator
in 24° west longitude. The last pintado left us 240

* When the above was written I had not seen the remarks on
Chionis by M. Blainville, whose anatomical investigation assigns
to it precisely the same position in the system—or next the
oyster-catchers—which appeared to me to have been indicated by
its habits—Voyage de la Bonite, Zoologie, tom. i. p. 107. pl.
(oiss.) 1x.

HOMEWARD VOYAGE. 111

miles within the tropics to follow an outward bound
vessel. Another petrel much resembling it—a new
species with longer wings and different markings,
the head, neck, and upper surface being dark choco-
late, and the lower parts white—was abundant be-
tween the latitude of 46° and 40° south, and between
the parallels of 36° and 85° 8., Procellaria conspi-
cillata was numerous, but unfortunately I had no
opportunity of procuring specimens of either.

Five days after leaving the Falkland Islands, we
encountered a very heavy gale, commencing at
south-east, and blowing hardest at east, when the
barometer was down to 29.264,—next day the wind
went round to the south-west and moderated. From
the latitude of the entrance of the River Plate up to
lat. 15° S., we experienced northerly winds between
E.N.E. and W.N.W., after which we got winds
commencing at S.W. and merging into the S.E.
trade, which we may be said to have fairly got in
133° 8. lat. and 233° W. long., and lost in 6° N.
lat., and 22° W. long. We picked up the N.H.
trade in lat. 18° N. and long. 24° W. and carried
it up to lat. 29° N. and long. 873° W. I mention
these particulars as the limits of the trade-winds as
experienced by us were considered to differ consider-
ably from what was to be expected at this season
of the year. Gulf weed made its first appearance
in lat. 24° N. and long. 353° W. but in small
quantity, and was last seen in lat. 38° N. and long.
832° W. in detached pieces, mostly dead. About

112 GULF WEED.

312° N. and 873° W. it was very plentiful, occur-
ring in long lines from one to fifty yards in width,
extending in the direction of the wind. Some pieces
which were hooked up furnished on being shaken
numbers of a minute univalve shell (Litiopa), many
small fish—especially pipe-fish (Syngnathus ),—
and numerous crustacea (of which Planes minuta was
the most plentiful), while several delicate zoophytes
were encrusted or attached to the weed. In short
each little patch of gulf weed seemed a world in
itself, affording the shelter of a home to hundreds of
minute and wonderful animals.*

Sept. 29th—With only another day’s supply of
fresh water on board, we were glad this morning to
have the islands of Pico and Fayal in sight. The
view, as we closed the land, standing in from the
south-westward for the roadstead of Horta, was
very fine—on our left we had the beautiful island of

* The gulf weed is still regarded as of questionable origin.
Has it—unlike all other sea weeds—always existed as a floating
plant, or has it been detached by storms from the bottom of the
sea and carried by the currents of the ocean into the well defined
region it now occupies and out of which it is never met with in any
great quantity? Without entering into proofs, the principal of which
are its not yet having been found attached to the shore, and the
invariable absence of fructification—it seems probable that those
botanists are in the right who consider the gulf weed (Sargassum
bacciferum) to be merely an abnormal condition, propagating
itself by shoots, of S. vulgare, which in its normal state grows
upon the shores of the Atlantic and its islands.—See note by Dr.
J.D. Hooker in Memoirs of Geological Survey of Great Britain,
vol. i. p. 349.

ISLAND OF FAYAL. 113

Fayal rising to the height of 3000 feet, its sides
gradually sloping towards a range of maritime cliffs,
while the lower grounds, in full cultivation, indi-
cated —along with numbers of neat white-washed
cottages and occasional villages—a well peopled
and fertile country, coutrasting strongly with those
from which we had lately returned. To the right
was Pico —with the summit of its peak (stated to be
7613 feet in height) peeping out from a mass of
snowy clouds descending almost to the shore —and
the centre was occupied by the more distant island of
St. Jorge with a portion of Graciosa dimly seen
projecting beyond its western end.

After having been for two months cooped up on
board ship, I was glad to have a quiet walk on
shore. In a ravine at one end of the town it was
pleasing to see numbers of old acquaintances among’
the birds, bringing vividly to my recollection that
home which we had now approached so closely.
Martins were hawking about, the whitethroat
warbled his short snatches of song among the bushes,
and blackbirds and starlings flew past. And al-
though engaged in the matter-of-fact occupation of
searching for land-shells, by turning over the stones,
T could not help being struck with the beauty of
the terraced walks and overhanging gardens ; the
beautiful belladonna lily-—here run wild in great
abundance—made a fine show. At Point Greta
the rock pigeons—the original stock of the domesti-
cated race--were flying about in large flocks or

VOL. II. I

114 HORTA AND

sunning themselves on the sea cliffs. A heavy
shower of rain, by bringing out the” land-shells,
enabled me to pick up half-a-dozen species of
Helix, Bulimus, and Pupa, at the foot of the
hedge-rows; I was anxious to procure some to
ascertain whether any were non-European forms ;
one was even quite a new species. On a white-
flowered convolvulus with succulent leaves, I found
numbers of the caterpillars of a large hawk-moth
(Sphinx Convolvuli) which some ragged urchins
who followed me shewed great dread of, running
away when I picked one up and shouting to me to
throw it away, else I should die. One was after-
wards brought on board by an English resident—as
a very venomous reptile, which had caused three or
four deaths during his stay on the island. The
recurved horn on the tail has been regarded as a
sting, and the poor harmless creature, having once
got a bad name, is now by the Fayalese, in the
absence of snakes or scorpions, made to supply their
place.

The town of Horta contains, I was told, upwards
of 10,000 inhabitants. It is prettily situated on the
shores of a small bay, extending between two rocky
headlands. The landing-place is at the remains of
a mole under the walls of Fort Santa Cruz, the only
one of numerous ruinous fortifications where a few
guns are mounted; even these are in so wretched
a condition that the commandant admitted that it
would require several hours’ preparation before they

ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. 115

would be fit to return our expected salute, and
seemed glad when told that as a surveying ship
we were exempted from saluting the flags of other
nations. A sea wall runs along the face of the
town; parallel with this is the principal street, with
others at right angles extending up the hill. The
narrow streets are clean and well paved,—the
houses, generally of one story, are built of tough
grey trachyte.

Almost every inch of available ground upon the
island of Fayal has been turned to good account:
Indian corn is the chief agricultural product. With
our usual bad fortune in this respect we were too late
for the grapes and the oranges had not yet come in.
The lower grounds are divided into small enclosures
by stone walls, and subdivided by rows of a tall
stout reed (Arundo donax), resembling sugar cane.
Although taxes and other burthens are heavy, and
wages very low, yet to a mere visitor like myself
there appeared none of those occasional signs of
destitution which strike one in walking through a
town at home, nor did I see a single beggar.

In Fayal and Pico the most careless observer from
the anchorage of Horta can scarcely fail to associate
the number of smooth conical hills with former
volcanic activity; and in looking over Capt. Vidal’s
beautiful charts of the Azores, nearly all the
principal hills throughout the group are seen to
have their craters or caldeiras. Fayal exhibits a fine
specimen of one of these caldeiras in the central and

I2

116 CONCLUSION OF THE VOYAGE.

highest part of the island. At an elevation of a
little more than 3000 feet, we reached the ridge
forming the margin of a circular crater, rather
more than a mile in diameter, and 700 feet deep.
The outer slope is gradual, but the inner walls
are steep, deeply furrowed by small ravines and
watercourses, and covered with grass, fern and
heath-like bushes. The bottom contains a con-
siderable extent of swampy meadow land, a
shallow lagoon, and a small hill with a crater also
partially filled with water. The view here is
magnificent, enhanced, too, at times by the rolling
volumes of mist overhead, at one moment admitting
of a peep at the blue sky above, in the next
concealing the rim of the crater and increasing in
idea the height of its wall-like sides. The caldeira,
I may add in conclusion, is said to have been formed
during the last eruption of Fayal in 1672, but this
statement appears to be very doubtful.

We resumed our homeward voyage on October
5th, and on November 9th, the Rattlesnake was
paid off at Chatham, after having been in commis-
sion upwards of four years.

ACCOUNT

MR. E. B. KENNEDY’S
EXPEDITION FOR THE EXPLORATION

OF THE

CAPE YORK PENINSULA,

IN

TROPICAL AUSTRALIA.

In addition to the brief account which already
forms part of the Narrative of the Voyage of
H.M.S. Rattlesnake, I have thought it would add
to the interest of this work and the gratification of
its readers, were I to give under a distinct head a
detailed history of the exploring expedition con-
ducted by the late Mr. Edmund B. Kennedy, de-
rived from a pamphlet printed in Sydney, and
scarcely procurable in this country. It includes
the interesting narrative of Mr. W. Carron, the
botanist attached to the expedition in question ;
also the statements of the aboriginal black who
witnessed the death of his gallant master—of Dr.
Vallack who took an active part in rescuing the
survivors—and of Mr. T. B. Simpson who proceeded
in search of the remainder of the party, whose fate
was stillin a measure uncertain, and succeeded in
recovering some of Mr. Kennedy’s papers.

NARRATIVE OF MR. WM. CARRON.

WE left Sydney on the 29th of April, 1848, in
the barque “ Tam O’Shanter” (Captain Merionberg),
in company with H.M.S. “ Rattlesnake.”

Our party consisted of the following persons:
Mr. E. B. Kennedy, (leader), Mr. W. Carron,
(botanist), Mr. T. Wall, (naturalist), Mr. C. Niblet,
(storekeeper), James Luff, Edward Taylor, and
William Costigan, (carters), Hdward Carpenter,
(shepherd), William Goddard, Thomas Mitchell,
John Douglas, Dennis Dunn, (labourers), and
Jackey-Jackey, an aboriginal native of the Pa-
trick’s Plains tribe, of the Hunter River district.

Our supplies and equipment for the journey had
been most fully considered, and were estimated by
Mr. Kennedy as amply sufficient for a journey so
short as what we then anticipated. Our live stock
consisted of twenty-eight horses, one hundred sheep,
three kangaroo dog's, and one sheep dog. Our dry
provisions comprised one ton of flour, ninety lbs. of
tea, and six hundred lbs. of sugar. Besides these
necessary supplies for subsistence on the road, we
took with us twenty-four pack-saddles, one heavy
square cart, two spring carts, with harness for nine
horses, four tents, a canvas sheepfold, twenty-two

120 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

pounds eunpowder, one hundred and thirty Ibs. shot,
a quarter cask of ammunition, twenty-eight tether
ropes (each twenty-one yards long), forty hobble
chains and straps, together with boxes, paper, &c.,
for preserving specimens, fire-arms, cloaks, blankets,
tomahawks, and other minor requisites for such an
expedition, not forgetting a supply of fish-hooks
and other small articles, as presents for the natives.

After a tedious passage of twenty-two days, we
arrived at Rockingham Bay on the 21st May; and
even here, at the very starting point of our journey,
those unforeseen difficulties began to arise, which
led us subsequently to hardships so great and cala-
mities so fatal.

On casting anchor, Mr. Kennedy, in company
with Captain Merionberg, proceeded in a boat to
examine the shores of the Bay, and to determine on
a suitable landing place for the horses, but returned
in the evening without having been able to discover
one.

The attempt was renewed the next morning, and
continued during the entire day ; and on the morning
of the 28rd of May Mr. Kennedy and Captain
Merionberg returned to the ship with the intelli-
gence that they had discovered a spot where the
horses might be landed with tolerable safety, and
where, too, there was plenty of grass and water.
This was an important desideratum, as we had lost
one horse and eleven sheep on the voyage.

The water round the shores of the bay was very

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 121

shallow, in consequence of which the vessel could
not approach close inshore, but was compelled to
cast anchor about a quarter of a mile off, and this
distance the horses had to swim.

In the afternoon the vessel was anchored off the
landing place, and early on the following morning
(May 24th), the tents, tether ropes, and sheepfold
were taken ashore, with a party to take care of the
horses when landed. At ten o’clock a.m., slings
having been prepared, we commenced hoisting the
horses out of the hold, and lowering them into the
water alongside a boat, to the stern of which the
head of each horse was secured, as it was pulled
ashore. One horse was drowned in landing, but all
the others were safely taken ashore during the day.
The weather this day was very cold, with occasional
showers of rain.

During the time occupied by landing the horses,
a number of aboriginal natives assembled on the
beach; they evinced no symptom of hostility, but
appeared much surprised at our horses and sheep.
White men they had frequently seen before, as
parties have landed on the beach from surveying:
vessels.

We found no difficulty in making them compre-
hend that we desired to be friendly with them, and
they advanced towards us with green boughs in
their hands, which they displayed as emblems of
peace. We imet them with our arms extended and
our hands open, indicating that we had no imple-

122 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

ments of war with us. We made them a present of
two circular tin plates, with Mr. Kennedy’s initials
stamped upon them, and chains to hang them
round the neck; we also gave them a few fish-hooks,
and they accepted our presents with great demon-
strations of pleasure. We made signs for them to
sit down about 200 yards from the spot where the
horses and sheep were being landed, and marking a
line upon the sand we made them understand that
they were not to cross it to approach us. One of
our party was placed amongst them to enforce this
regulation, which he did with little difficulty, al-
though they expressed great curiosity as to various
articles brought on shore from the ship.

These natives appeared to be very fine strong
men, varying much in intelligence and disposition.
I entered into such conversation with them as we
were enabled to hold, and I soon found that while
some were eagerly anxious to learn the names of
different articles and their uses, others were per-
fectly indifferent about them.

We pitched our tents about two hundred yards
from the beach, forming a square, with the sheep-
fold in the centre. Mr. Kennedy came on shore in
the morning to superintend the arrangements, and
after giving the necessary directions and instruc-
tions, returned to the ship. The party left ashore
in charge consisted of myself, Wall, Dunn, Car-
penter, and Douglas. Our provisions were supplied
from the ship, in order that no time might be lost in

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 123

getting all our stores and implements in proper order
for starting.

A few yards from our camp was a fresh water
creek, from which, although the tide ran into it about
one hundred yards—where it was stopped by a small
bank—we could obtain excellent water. The grass
around was very long, and mostly of very coarse
descriptions, consisting chiefly of a species of Uniola
erowing in tufts, and an Agrostis with creeping
roots and broad blades ; the horses seemed to like the
Uniola best. A little to the northward of our camp
were very high and almost perpendicular rocks, com-
posed mostly of micaceous schist, covered with
various epiphytal orchides and ferns.

The labour of the day being ended, and most of
our stores landed, the greater number of our party
came ashore to pass the night; and after having
tethered the horses in fresh places, we assembled at
supper, the materiel of which (beef and biscuit) was
sent from the ship. We then took possession of our
tents, one square tent being allotted to Mr. Ken-
nedy ; Niblet, Wall, and myself occupied a small
round one; Taylor, Douglas, Carpenter, Mitchell,
and Jackey, a large round tent; and Luff, Dunn,
Goddard, and Costigan, the other.

Mr. Wennedy’s tent was 8 feet long, by 6 feet,
and 8 feet high, and in it were placed a compact
table, constructed with joints so as to fold up, a
light camp stool, his books and imstruments. The
two larger round tents were pyramidal in shape,

124 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

seven feet in diameter at the least, and nine feet
high. The small tent was six feet in diameter, and
eight feet high.

Every man was then supplied with one pair of
blankets, one cloak, a double-barrelled gun or carbine,
a brace of pistols, cartridge box, small percussion
cap pouch, and six rounds of ammunition. The
arrangement for preserving the safety of the camp
from attack was, that every man, with the excep-
tion of Mr. Kennedy, should take his turn to watch
through the night —two hours being the duration of
each man’s watch—the watch extending from 8 P.M.
til 6 a.m. During the night the kangaroo dogs
were kept chained up, but the sheep dog was at
large.

The position of this our first encampment was
near the northern extremity of Rockingham Bay,
being in latitude 17° 58’ 10” south, longitude 146° &
east. The soil, where our cattle and sheep were
feeding, was sandy and very wet. The land, from
the beach to the scrub in the swamp beyond, was
slightly undulating, and very thickly strewed with
shells, principally bivalves.

On the morning of the 25th May, a party com-
menced landing the remainder of our stores, and it
being a fine morning, I went out to collect specimens
and seeds of any new and interesting plants I might
find. On leaving the camp I proceeded through a
small belt of scrub to the rocks on the north; the
scrub was composed of the genera Flagellaria,

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 125

Kennedya, Bambusa (bamboo), Smilax, Cissus,
Mueuna, and various climbing plants unknown to
me: the trees consisted principally of Eugenia,
Anacardium, Castanospermum (Moreton Bay chest-
nut), a fine species of Sarcocephalus, and a large
spreading tree belonging to the natural order Ruta-
cew, with ternate leaves, and axillary panicles of white
flowers, about the size of those of Boronia pinnata.
At the edge of the rocks were some fine tree ferns
(Dicksonia), with the genera Viphopteris, and Poly-
podium ; also some beautiful epiphytal Orchidea,
among others a beautiful Dendrobium (rock lily),
with the habit of D. speciosum, but of stronger
growth, bearing long spikes of bright yellow flowers,
the sepals spotted with rich purple. I found also
another species with smaller leaves, and more slender
habit, with spikes of dull green flowers, the column
and tips of the sepals purple: and a very fine
Cymbidium, much larger than C. suave, with brown
blossoms, having a yellow column.

I proceeded along the edge of a mangrove swamp
for a short distance, and entered a fresh water swamp
about a mile from the beach, covered with very thick
scrub, composed of large trees of the genus Jelu-
leuca, running for the most part from forty to fifty
feet high. Here also I first found a strong-growing
climbing palm (Calamus Australis), throwing up a
number of shoots from its roots, many of them 100
feet long, and about the thickness of a man’s finger,
with long pinnatifid leaves, covered with sharp

126 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

spines—and long tendrils growing out of the stem
alternately with the leaves, many of them twenty
feet long, covered with strong spines slightly curved
downward, by which the shoots are supported in
their rambling growth. They lay hold of the sur-
rounding bushes and branches of trees, often covering
the tops of the tallest, and turning’ in all directions.
The seed is a small hard nut, with a thin scaly
covering, and is produced in great abundance.

‘The shoots, which are remarkably tough, I after-
wards found were used by the natives in making
their canoes. These canoes are small, and con-
structed of bark, with a small sapling on each side
to strengthen them, the ends of which are tied
together with these shoots.

The growth of this plant forms one of the greatest
obstacles to travelling in the bush in this district.
It forms a dense thicket, into which it is impossible
to penetrate without first cutting it away, and a
person once entangled in its long tendrils has much
difficulty in extricating himself, as they lay hold of
everything they touch. On entering the swamp to
examine plants, I was caught by them, and became
so much entangled before I was aware of it, that it
took me nearly an hour to get clear, although I had
entered but a few yards. No sooner did I cut one
tendril, than two or three others clung around me
at the first attempt to move, and where they once
clasp they are very difficult to unloose. Abundance
of the shoots, from fifteen to twenty feet long, free

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 127

from leaves or tendrils, could be obtained, and would
be useful for all the purposes to which the common
cane is now applied.

At this spot also I met with Dracontium poly-
phyllum, a beautiful plant, belonging to the natural
order Aroidee, climbing by its rooting stems to the
tops of the trees, like the ivy. This plant has
narrow pointed leaves, four inches long’, and produces
at the ends of the shoots a red spatha, enclosing a
cylindrical spadix of yellow flowers.

In many parts the swamp was completely covered
with a very strong growing species of estio (rope-
grass). On the open ground, between the beach
and the swamp, were a few large flooded-gums, and
some Moreton Bay ash trees, and near the beach
I found the Exocarpus latifolia.

On the beach, too, just above high water mark,
was a beautiful spreading, lactescent tree, about
twenty feet high, belonging to the natural order
Apocynee, with alternate, exstipulate, broad, lanceo-
late leaves, six to eight inches long, and producing
terminal spikes of large, white, sweet-scented flowers,
resembling those of the white Neriwm oleander, but
much larger. I also met with a tree about twenty
feet high, belonging to the natural order Dilleniacea,
with large spreading branches, producing at the
axilla of the leaves from three to five large yellow
flowers, with a row of red appendages surrounding
the carpels,—and a fine species of Culophyllum,
with large dark green leaves, six to eight inches long,

128 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

two and a-half to three inches broad, beautifully
yeined, and with axillary racemes of white, sweet-
scented flowers ; the seed being a large round nut
with a thin rind, of a yellowish green colour when
ripe. There were many other interesting plants
growing about, but the afternoon turning out. wet,
I left their examination to stand over till finer
weather.

Growing on the beach was a species of Portulaca,
a quantity of the young shoots of which I collected,
and we partook of them at our supper, boiled as a
vegetable.

In the evening, after watering our horses, we took
them to the camp and gave each of them a feed of
corn which we had brought with us for the purpose
of strengthening them previous to our starting from
Rockingham Bay, on our expedition ; but although
the grass on which they had been depasturing was
coarse, they were with difficulty induced to eat the
corn, many of them leaving it almost all behind
them. We then tethered them and folded our
sheep, one of which we killed for food. The ration
per week on which the party was now put, was one
hundred pounds of flour, twenty-six pounds of sugar,
and three and a-half pounds of tea, with one sheep
every alternate day.

This night too we commenced our nightly watch,
the whole of the stores being landed and packed in
the camp. During nearly the whole of the day a
tribe of natives was watching our movements, but

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRGON. 129

they seemed to be quite peaceably inclined; the
weather was very cold, and at night the rain set m
and continued to fall, almost without intermission,
till morning’.

The next morning (May 26th) was very wet and
cold; but after securing our horses, I again went
out to search for, and examine plants, although it
was too rainy to collect seeds or specimens. On a
Casuarina near the swamp, I saw a beautiful Lo-
ranthus with rather small oval leaves,—panicles of
flowers, with the tube of the corolla green, and seg’-
ments of the limb dark red—of a dwarf bushy habit.
This beautiful parasite covered the tree, and was
very showy. ‘he afternoon turning out fine and
warm, I collected several specimens and sorts of
seeds. In the open ground grew a beautiful tree
producing large terminal spikes of yellow flowers,
with broad, and slightly cordate leaves; it belongs.
to the natural order Bignoniacce.

The open ground between the beach and the
swamp varied in width from half a mile to three or
four miles; it was principally covered with long
erass, with a belt of bushy land along the edge of
the beach ; the bush consisting principally of Ewo-
carpus, With dark green oval leaves, near an inch
long; two dwarf species of Labricia, one with
white, the other with pink flowers; a species of
Jasminum, with rather large, white, sweet-scented
flowers; and a few acacia trees, with long, linear,
lanceolate phyllodia, and racemose spikes of bright

VOL. Il. K

180 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

yellow flowers. There also grew the genera Xan-
thorrhea, Xerotes, and Restio (rope-grass.)

There were a great many wallabies near the beach,
but they were very wild. While returning to the
camp in the evening, I met several natives who had
been out fishing. Most of the fish they had taken
had been speared, only a few having been caught
with hooks. I remained with them some time, and
learned some of their expressions. Fresh water
they call “ hammoo,”* salt water, “ mocull;” their
dogs—the same species as the native dogs found
near Sydney—they call “ taa-taa.” We had not as
yet seen any of their women, as they were encamped
at some distance from us.

Near the beach, by the side of the salt water
creek, I saw a beautiful species of Ruellia with ter-
minal spikes of blue flowers, and spiny-toothed
leaves, and a bushy shrub eight or ten feet high—
with alternate exstipulate, simple, oval leaves—bear-
ing a solitary, axillary, round fruit, resembling a
greengage plum ; the fleshy pulp covering the hard
round stone has rather a bitter taste, but it is not dis-
agreeable when ripe. It acts as a laxative if eaten
in any quantity, and is probably Maba laurina.

On the following morning, May 27th, when the
horses were watered and fed, I commenced digging
a piece of ground, in which I sowed seeds of cab-
bage, turnip, leek, pumpkin, rock and water melons,

* Kamo, at Goold Island, only a few miles distant.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 131

pomegranate, peach stones, and apple pips. On the
two following days, May 28th and 29th, I remained
in the camp all day.

The next morning, May 30th, Mr. Kennedy and
three others of the party rode out to examine the
surrounding country, and to determine in what
direction the expedition should start, the remainder
staying at the camp, busily occupied with prepara-
tions for our departure into the wilderness. The
flour was put into canvass bags, holding 100 lbs.
each, made in the shape of saddle-bags, to hold
50lbs. weight on each side. The sugar we put into
two large tin canisters, made to fit into one of the
carts, and the tea was packed in quarter-chests.
The surplus stores, comprising horse-shoes, clothes,
specimen boxes, &c., which would not be required
before our arrival at Cape York, were sent on board
H.M.S. Rattlesnake, which it was arranged should
meet us at Port Albany. During the day one of
the party shot a wallaby on the beach, which made
very good soup.

During the morning of the next day (May 31st)
I was employed in procuring specimens and seeds
of various plants, and in the afternoon we all re-
sumed our preparations for starting, as we expected
Mr. Kennedy back next day. He however did not
then arrive in the camp, and on the following after-
noon I obtained specimens of a very pretty plant of
the natural order Onagraria, with opposite, oblong,
simple leaves, and large purple flowers.

K 2

132 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

The following day (June 3rd) Mr. Kennedy and
his party returned to the camp, with the intelligence
that it was impossible to proceed in a north or
north-westerly direction, in consequence of the
swamps. Mr. Kennedy had penetrated them in
some places, where the scrub was not too thick, but
could not get through them in any place, on account
of the water, and the dense scrub. He informed
us that he found we should be obliged to cross a
river on the beach to the south-west of the camp
before we could hope to make any progress.

The two following days were occupied with com-
pleting our arrangements for starting; as it was
determined on the following morning to strike our
tents and proceed at once on our expedition.

As I may now consider our expedition as fairly
begun, it may, for the sake of clearness and ar-
rangement, be advisable to continue my narrative
in the form of a journal; detailing from day to day
- the various occurrences which took place. It must
be remembered, however, that in narrating the
particulars of our journey, I am obliged to trust
largely to memory, and to very imperfect memo-
randa; and to these difficulties must I refer, in
excuse for the defects, with which I am well aware
this narrative abounds.

Up to the present time, the whole of the party,
and especially its unfortunate leader, had remained
in good spirits, and, buoyed up with sanguine hopes

y

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 133

of success, were eager to set out on their pilgrimage
of discovery.

June 5th. We breakfasted at an early hour this
morning, and proceeded at once to harness our
horses to the carts, three to each cart. The carts
contained about seven hundred-weight each. This
business having been completed, and the pack-horses
saddled and loaded, we started at nine o’clock a.M.,
and proceeded along the beach. Mr. Kennedy and
Jackey rode in front, followed by the three carts.
After Wall, riding one horse and leading two pack-
horses, came Goddard, Douglas, Mitchell, and Dunn,
leading three pack-horses, then Niblet in their rear,
riding one and leading two horses, followed by
Carpenter driving the sheep, and myself on foot,
carrying Mr. Kennedy’s mountain barometer, which
he had given into my charge during the journey ;
and I was also to take the time for that gentle-
man, in his observations.

After travelling in this order about two miles, we
came to a large river,* emptying itself into Rocking-
ham Bay. This river was about one hundred and
fifty yards wide, and although the tide ran up it
about a mile, fresh water was procurable from it
considerably nearer the sea.

At nearly high-water I tasted fresh water on one
side of the river, and salt on the other, and about
two hours after high water, there was no difficulty
in obtaining plenty of excellent water on either side
of the river, in different places. There is a great

* Mackay River of the Admiralty chart of Rockingham Bay.

184 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

deal of fresh water running’ into the sea here, and at
the same distance from the sea as the mouth of the
river, it is in some places mixed with salt water,
whilst in others it is quite fresh. The banks of this
stream are low and sandy, and ashort distance above
where we joined it, it is skirted on either side by a
thick mangrove swamp, for the distance of about a
mile, where it joins the fresh water swamps, covered
with thick scrub. On my proceeding up the river,
it became narrower in its channel as it approached
the swamps, from which it appeared to be princi-
pally supplied. It had a tortuous course, and when
I left it, was turning to the westward.

A boat was sent to us by Captain Stanley of
H.M.S. Rattlesnake to assist us in carrying our
stores across, which we effected with some difficulty
by ten o’clock, p.m., the horses and some of the
sheep swimming across, while the remainder of the
latter were taken in the boat. We pitched Mr.
Kennedy’s tent on sand, at the side of the river,
and it bemg dark, and not knowing where to
obtain fresh water on that side of the river, I and
five others recrossed it, and went back about
three-quarters of a mile to a small creek running
parallel to the beach. We filled our kegs, and re-
turned to the camp in time to have supper by twelve
o'clock, after which we rolled ourselves in our
blankets, and, wearied by the fatigues we had under-
gone, slept soundly till daylght.

This was a very harassing day to us, as we were
all constantly in the water, loading and unloading

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 135

the boat. It is but just to state, that Captain
Stanley of the Rattlesnake, both in landing our
horses and stores, and in crossing this river,
rendered us every assistance in his power, and
seemed throughout to take a strong interest in the
expedition, and its object.

While landing our things at the other side of the
river, the natives assembled in great numbers about
our luggage. As they appeared to be friendly, we
permitted them to come within about 150 yards of
our landing place; with some few we had a little
difficulty, but for the most part they would sit down
quietly as soon as a sign was made for them to do so.

June 6th.—Early this morning Lieutenant
Simpson of the Rattlesnake left us, he having
stayed all night at the camp, and we were now left
entirely to our own resources. We loaded our
carts and pack-horses, and proceeded about three
miles inland, but again finding it impossible to cross
the swamps, we returned to the beach, and about
dusk came to another river, also emptying itself into
Rockingham Bay, and two miles south-west of the
first we had to cross. This river was much wider
than the first, being about two hundred yards wide
where we crossed it near the mouth. At the mouth
of this river is a sand-bank, over which the water is
about four feet deep. Inside the bank the water is
ten feet deep. The tide flows up for about a mile ;
there appears to be a great quantity of fresh
water discharged into the sea from the river, which,

136 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

I think, is principally supplied from the swamps.
These swamps lie at the foot of a high mountain
range, and probably the rivulets descending from
the range spread over the flat ground, and form
channels by which they reach the sea. Fresh water
can be obtained on either side the river very near
the sea. I tasted fresh water on one side, salt in the
middle, and slightly brackish on the other side, as
we crossed over it. Small boats only can enter this
river, on account of the sand-bank at the mouth.
Its course turned to the south-west about two miles
up. Its banks were sandy and barren, at least
close to the water; on the north side of the river
there is a mangrove swamp, extending some distance
up the stream; on the south side the banks are
higher, and are covered with Casuarinas and Acacias,
the soil being sandy and pretty well covered with
grass, and the land shehtly undulating, for about one
and a-half or two miles up the river. It being too
late to think of crossing the river to-night, we
hobbled our horses, and having pitched Mr.
Kennedy’s tent, slept on the sand till morning.
June 7th. As soon as we had breakfasted this
morning, we prepared to cross, to assist us in which
undertaking we contrived to construct a sort of punt
by taking the wheels and axletrees off one of the
carts. We then placed the body of the cart on a
large tarpaulin, the shafts passing through holes
cut for them, and the tarpaulin tightly nailed round
them. ‘The tarpaulin was then turned up all round,

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 137

and nailed inside the cart; by this means it was
made almost water-tight. We then fastened our
water-bags, filled with air, to the sides of the cart,
six on each side, and a small empty keg to each
shaft. We now tied our tether ropes together, and
made one end fast on each side of the river, by
which means our punt was easily pulled from one
bank to the other. By this contrivance we managed
to get most of our things over during the day, and
at night a party slept on either side, without pitching
the tents.

June 8th.—One party continued employed in
getting the remainder of the thing's across the river,
whilst the others went in search of the horses, which
had rambled to some distance to seek for better
grass. The grass had hitherto continued plentiful
in places all the way. The horses were brought up
to the river by eleven A.M., and were with some
difficulty got across, after which they were hobbled,
and we camped for the night near the beach, in good
OTASss.

June 9th.— Mr. Kennedy, with Jackey and three
others, left the camp this morning for the purpose
of ascertaining the most practicable route for our
carts. During the day a great number of natives
came around our camp, and appeared very friendly ;
they are a finer race of men than those usually seen
in the southern districts of the colony, but their
habits and mode of lite seem very similar. They
left us before dark, without making any attempt at

plunder.

138 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

June 10th.—Mr. Kennedy returned to the camp
this evening; he still found the swamps were
impassable, the water and mud lying on them in
many parts from three to four feet deep; there were
patches of dry land here and there covered with
good but coarse grass.

We saw here large flocks of black and white
ducks, making a whistling noise similar to some -
I have seen near Port Macquarie. Mr. Wall shot
three of them, and they proved very good to eat, but
they were not new, being Dendrocygna Eytont.

June 11th.—We started early this morning and
proceeded along the beach for three or four miles,
when we came to another river, similar in its
character to the one we crossed on the 8th, with low
sandy banks, and dry bushy land on each side.
We unloaded and hobbled our horses, and prepared
our punt as before.

Near to this spot we came upon a native encamp-
ment, consisting of eighteen or twenty huts of an
oval form, about seven feet long, and four feet
high; and at the southern end of the camp, was one
large hut eighteen feet long, seven feet wide, and
fourteen feet high. All of them were neatly and
strongly built with small saplings, stuck in the
ground, arched over, and tied together at the top
with small shoots of the climbing palm which I
have already described. They were covered with
the bark of the large Melaleucas which grow in the
swamps, fastened to the saplings with palm shoots.
A small opening is left at one end, from the ground

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 139

to the top, and the floors were covered with long
dried grass.

The natives being absent from the camp, I
entered the large gunyah, and found in it a great
shield of solid wood, two feet in diameter, convex on
one side, and flat on the other. The convex side
was curiously painted red, in circular rings and
crosses. On the flat side was a handle, cut out of
the solid wood. In the same hut I found four
wooden swords, three and a half feet long, and four
inches broad, sharp at both edges, and thick in the
centre, with a slightly-curved, round handle, about
six inches long. They were made of very hard
wood, and were much too heavy to wield with one
hand. I also found a number of fishing lines,
made from grass, with hooks attached of various
sizes, made from mussel shells.

After I had carefully examined all these things
I left them where I found them. In the centre
of the camp were four large ovens, for cooking
their food. These ovens were constructed by digging
a hole in the ground, about three feet in diameter,
and two feet deep. The hole is then filled to within
six inches of the top with smooth, hard, loose,
stones, on which a fire is kindled, and kept burning
till the stones are well heated. Their food, consist-
ine’ principally of shell and other fish, is then placed
on the stones and baked.

There were no vessels in the camp in which they
could boil anything, and it is my opinion, from

140 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

what I afterwards saw of their habits, that their
cookery is confined to roasting and baking. In
the camp were several large shells for holdmg
water, and some calabashes, made by taking out the
inside of a kind of gourd which grows plentifully
near the camp. These calabashes would hold from
one to three pints each.

June 12th.—This morning Taylor endeavoured
to cross the river with the rope for working our punt,
but although an expert swimmer, and a very strong
man, he was unable to do so, from the strength
of the tide which was running out. We saw
several natives fishing in the river from their canoes,
which are about five feet long and one and a-half
feet wide, made of bark, with small saplings tied
along the side, and are paddled with small pieces
of bark held in either hand. We made signs to
them to come to us, with which three of them
complied. We made them understand that if they
would take our rope across, and make it fast to
a dead tree on the other side of the river, we would
give them a tomahawk. They consented to under-
take the task, and after great exertion succeeded
in performing it, and received their reward, with
which they seemed quite satisfied and highly
pleased. We succeeded in getting everything
across the river by 10 o’clock P.m., for the moon
being up, we would not stop till we had finished.
Our horses we took about a quarter of a mile up the
river, and they crossed where it was narrower and

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON, 141

not so deep. Several natives, who had not yet
seen our horses, assembled on the banks of the river
to see them cross, and when they came out of the
water commenced shouting to frighten them, con-
tinuing their noise for about twenty minutes.
Seeing at length, however, that the beasts submitted
to be led quietly along the beach, they came near
the camp, and we made them a present of a few
fish-hooks. They returned to their camp before
sunset.

The river we crossed this day was not so deep as
either of the former ones. There is, apparently, a
sandbank across all the rivers emptying themselves
into Rockingham Bay, near the mouth, and this
one formed no exception to the rule. The tide runs
up very stron¢ly—I should think for a mile and
a-half or two miles.

There is a mangrove swamp running up some
distance on the northern side of the river, till it joins
the fresh water swamps. ‘There isnot so much fresh
water running out of this river as from the last, and
fresh water is only procurable from its south side
near the swamp—it being impossible to penetrate
the scrub on the northern side to obtain it. At low
water the river is very shallow, with a muddy
bottom.

June 18th.—On our mustering this morning,
Carpenter was missed from the camp. It was dis-
covered that he had absconded during the night,
carrying off with him a damper weighing about

142 KENNEDY S$ EXPEDITION.

eleven pounds, two pounds of tea, and ten pounds
of sugar. We had breakfast as quickly as possible,
and Mr. Kennedy sent four men on horseback to
scour the country around in search of him. They
returned from an unsuccessful search, but had
received intelligence from the blacks that he was
not far off.

June 14th.—A party went out early this morning
in search of Carpenter, and caught sight of him
about two miles from the river, sharing his damper
with the blacks. As soon, however, as he saw the
party approaching, he decamped into the bush, and
was again lost sight of. On coming up to the spot.
where he was seen, the bags in which he had
carried away the tea and sugar were found; the
sugar was nearly consumed, but the tea appeared
untouched. In the evening Carpenter returned,
and on begging Mr. Kennedy’s pardon, he was
forgiven. Throughout the expedition he was of
very little service, being, in fact, little better than
an idiot.

This evening we saw a large alligator, about
twenty feet long, rising to the surface of the water,
close to our camp. He appeared to be attentively
watching our sheep, which were feeding by the side
of the river on the Dolichos and Ipomeas which
were growing on the sand. The natives here had a
great many dogs, which, towards evening’, rushed
on our sheep and drove them among the bushes in
all directions. We had great difficulty in getting
them together before dark.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 143

June 15th.—We proceeded inland two or three
miles to the edge of the fresh water swamps, and
camped there. Mr. Kennedy went with a party
into the swamps to ascertain if it were possible to
make a road for the carts to pass through. Wall
and myself went out collecting specimens.

I found a beautiful species of Loranthus, growing
on acacia trees, and producing on its long pendulous
shoots abundance of beautiful scarlet flowers; the
tube of the corolla was two inches long, with a very
short limb, and the plant has lanceolate, glossy leaves.
This most interesting parasite—covering the acacia
trees—when in flower forms a most gorgeous sight,
presenting a beautiful contrast to the dull foliage of
the surrounding trees. I also found a scarlet passion-
flower,* very beautiful, with three-lobed glaucous
leaves; and a NMymphea (water lily), growing in
the water holes and small creeks, producing large
purple flowers, and peltate leaves; besides a number
of other new and interesting plants. Mr. Wall
succeeded in obtaining a specimen of a beautiful
little marsupial animal, resembling an opossum in
form, but not larger than the common rat, the colour
pure white, with very small black spots.

Mr. Kennedy and party returned in the evening,
after having been in the water up to their knees all
day. He reported that it was altogether impossible
to make a road.

June 16th.—Mr. Kennedy and party proceeded
again this morning to enter the swamps, but in a

* Disemma coccinea.—See Vol. I. p. 92.

144 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

different direction, in the hope of finding some spot
where a road might be made, but returned with no
better success. This day we killed the best sheep
we had yet slaughtered; it weighed 53 Ibs., those
we had previously killed varying from 40 to 48 lbs. ;
they did not keep fat, but up to this time we were
enabled to fry all the meat, which mode of ccokery
was more speedy and convenient for us than boiling
or any other way.

June 17th. We proceeded this evening along
the edge of the swamps, crossing several small
creeks. In many places the wheels of the carts
sank to the axle-trees in consequence of the rotten-
ness of the ground near the creeks. At length we
camped, after travelling about five miles.

June 18th.—This day was Sunday, and at eleven
o'clock Mr. Kennedy assembled the whole party
under the shade of some large trees and read prayers.
This was a practice always persevered in when
practicable, and unless for some very pressing’ rea-
son, we uniformly set apart the Sabbath as a day
of rest, such an interval from our toils being in fact
absolutely necessary.

June 19th.— Again Mr. Kennedy started this
morning, accompanied by five men, into the swamps,
determined, if possible, to find a road by which we
might cross them, and get to the foot of the
mountain ranges on the south. He remained out
during this and the two following days. The natives
appear to be very numerous in the neighbourhood

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 145

of Rockingham Bay. There was an old camping
place with twelve or fourteen old huts near our
camp, but it was not visited by the natives during
our stay there. They generally came to look at us
every day, but always kept at a distance; on some
days we saw as many as from eighty to a hundred.
The women and children always kept farther from
us than the men; I think more from fear of our
dogs and horses than of ourselves. The weather
was cool, with showers occasionally during the day,
and at night steady rain set in.

June 20th.—The rain continued throughout the
day.

June 21st and 22nd.—The rain still continued.
Two of our horses were found bogged in a creek
near the camp, but were soon released without
injury ; they had strayed into the creek to eat the
aquatic grass, which is plentiful on almost all the
creeks between the swamps and the sea. The soil
here was rather stiffer than we had found it before,
being a light sandy loam, and in places clayey.
There were not so many shells to be seen, and what
there were, were principally bivalves.

Mr. Kennedy returned this evening, and having
again found it impossible to cross the swamps, we
were obliged to return to the beach, where the travel-
ling was far better than among the trees. While
travelling inland a man was always obliged to walk
before the carts, to cut down small trees.

At this time we had only two meals per day ;

VOL. i: i;

146 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

breakfast at daylight, and dinner when we had com-
pleted our day’s work, and camped. The time for
dinner was therefore irregular, depending on the
nature of the country over which we travelled.
Some days we dined at one o’clock, on others not
till dark. Whenever any birds were shot, they were
boiled for supper; but as yet we had killed very
few.

Mr. Kennedy appeared to be, in every respect,
admirably fitted for the leader of an expedition of
this character. Although he had innumerable dif-
ficulties and hardships to contend with, he always
appeared cheerful, and in good spirits. In travelling
through such a country as we were in, such a dis-
position was essential to the success of the expedi-
tion. He was always diverting the minds of his
followers from the obstacles we daily encountered,
and encouraging them to hope for better success ;
careful in all his observations and calculations, as
to the position of his camp, and cautious not to
plunge into difficulties, without personal observation
of the country, to enable him to take the safest
path. But having decided, he pursued his deli-
berate determination with steady perseverance,
sharing in the labour of cutting through the scrub,
and all the harassment attendant on travelling
through such a wilderness, with as much (or greater)
alacrity and zeal as any of his followers. It was
often grievous to me to hear some of the party
observe, after we had passed over some difficult

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 147

tract, “that a better road might have been found,
a little to the right or to the left.” Such observa-
tions were the more unjust and vexatious, as in all
matters of difficulty and opinion, he would invariably
listen to the advice of all, and if he thought it pru-
dent, take it. For my own part, I can safely say,
that I was always ready to obey his orders, and
conform to his directions, confident as I then was
of his abilities to lead us to the place of our desti-
nation as speedily as possible.

June 23rd.—We started early this morning, and
proceeded along the beach till we came to a small
river, which was narrow and shallow, but the bottom
being muddy, and it being low water, we diverged
towards the sea, where the sand was firmer, and
there crossed it with little difficulty, without un-
loading the pack-horses or carts. The tide runs but
a short distance up this river, and as far as the tide
goes it is fringed with a belt of mangroves. The
banks are muddy, and so soft that a man sinks up
to his knees in walking along them. A little above
the mangroves the river divides into several small
creeks, in swampy ground, covered with small mela-
leucas so thickly, that although they are not at
all bushy below, but have straight trunks of from
three to five inches in diameter, and from ten to
twenty feet high, a man can scarcely walk between
them.

After crossing this river we again turned inland
for a short distance, and camped by the side of a

L2

148 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

small river south of the last; with steep grassy
banks on the north side, overhung by Tristanias
and arborescent Callistemons. On the south side
grew mangroves, and the large blue-flowered Ruellia
seen at our first camp. The tide ran up to our
camp, the fresh water coming from the north-west.
There were plenty of water-holes in the valley,
between the river and the higher sandy ground.
The grass here consisted principally of Agrostis,
near the river, where the land is occasionally inun-
dated, and of Uniola, a little further back, growing
in tufts. On the sandy ridges, however, there was
little else than Xanthorhea, Xerotes, and Restio
(rope grass). Here we saw a great many “ native
companions” (Gus Antigone), and swamp-pheasants
(Centropus phasianus).

June 24th.—Mr. Kennedy and a party of five
men again proceeded to examine the swamps, but
returned without finding any practicable way of
crossing.

June 25th.—We started early this morning, pro-
ceeding towards the beach in a southerly direction,
the river turning again south by west, and camped
after travelling over five or six miles of rotten and
rather sandy ground.

June 26th.—We proceeded along: the beach till
we came to a small river, most probably the same
we left yesterday, which we attempted to cross in
the same manner as we had done the one on the
28rd, but unfortunately the horses and carts sank

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 149

so deeply into the mud that they were completely
set fast. We were now obliged to unload, and
carry the goods ashore. Some of the flour-bags
fell into the water, but were quickly taken out—
very little damaged. We had great difficulty in
getting the carts out of the mud.

A number of natives had accompanied us all day,
and pointed out to us the best place to cross the
river. Some of them also assisted us in carrying
our things across, while one or two attempted petty
thefts. I caught one with two straps belonging to
a saddle, and a pair of Mr. Kennedy’s spurs in his
basket, which I took from him and sent him away.
Many of these natives were painted all over with a
sort of red earth, but none of them had visited us
armed with spears for several days past. Some of
them had learned to address several of our party by
name, and seemed pleased when they received an
answer. We frequently made them small presents,
and endeavoured to impress upon them the anxiety
we felt to remain on friendly terms with them.

After having crossed the river we turned inland,
cutting our way through a belt of mangrove scrub,
about half a mile wide; we got the carts through
with comparative ease, the ground being harder than
usual. We camped on a rising ground, with good
grass around us, by the side of a small creek running
here almost parallel with the beach, and coming
from the westward. At this camp I obtained seeds
of a dwarf spreading tree, with alternate, exstipulate,

150 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

pinnate leaves, and axillary racemes of a round
flattened fruit, similar in size and shape to the small
blue fig cultivated in gardens, of a dark purple
colour, and possessing a flavour similar to an
Orleans plum when hardly ripe, with a hard rough
stone inside.

June 27th.— We proceeded about five miles in a
westerly direction, passing over two small creeks
running to the south-east. The country here ap-
peared to be gradually rising, and the land to be
growing drier ; and we now hoped to be enabled to
prosecute our journey without any great obstruction
from the swamps.

June 28th.— Proceeding on the same course as
on the previous day, we crossed two small creeks,
running rapidly to the eastward. The bottoms of
these creeks were covered with granite pebbles, of
various sizes. The first creek we crossed at the
entrance, and the other near the middle of a thick
scrub, extending nearly three miles, and through
which we had to cut a road. The various plants of
which this scrub was composed corresponded with
those described as forming the scrub near our first
camp in the Bay. The greatest obstacles to our
progress through these scrubs were the long shoots
of the Flagellaria, and climbing palm. We camped
in an open patch of forest land, covered with grass,
and the trees consisted principally of Moreton Bay
ash (a species of eucalyptus), Casuarina, and a
rather large growing Acacia, with broad, rhom-

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 151

boidal, sericeous phyllodia, and very broad, flat
legumes.

Luff and Douglas were this day taken very ill
with the ague.

June 29th.—We found that some of our horses
had strayed into the scrub, and we did not succeed
in finding them until nearly twelve o’clock, and Luff
and Douglas being no better, Mr. Kennedy with
three others proceeded to examine the country in
advance of us.

June 80th.—This morning Luff was a little better,
but Douglas was able to eat but little. In the
scrub near our camp I found a species of Musa,
with leaves as large, and the plants as high, as the
common banana (M. paradisiaca), with blossoms
and fruit—but the fruit was not eatable. I also
found a beautiful tree belonging to the natural
order Myrtaceae, producing, on the trunk and large
branches only, abundance of white, sweet-scented
flowers, larger than those of the common rose apple
(Jambosa vulgaris), with long stamens, a very short
style, slightly two-cleft stigma, five very small semi-
orbicular petals, alternate with the thick fleshy
segments of the calyx, broad lanceolate leaves, the
fruit four to six inches in circumference, consisting
of a white fleshy, slightly acid substance, with one
large round seed (perhaps sometimes more), the foot-
stalk about one inch long. This is a most beautiful
and curious tree. Some specimens which I saw
measured five feet in circumference, and were sixty

152 KENNEDY'S EXPEDITION.

feet, high, the straight trunks rising twenty or thirty
feet from the ground to the branches, being covered
with blossoms, with which not a leaf mingled.
There were ripe and unripe fruit mingled with the
blossoms, the scent of the latter being delightful,
spreading perfume over a great distance around; I
had frequently noticed the fragrance of these blos-
soms while passing through the scrub, but could
not before make out from whence it arose. It resem-
bles the scent of a ripe pine-apple, but is much more
powerful. There are not many of these trees to be
found, and those only in the scrub, in a stiff loamy
soil. The small animals eat the fruit, and I tasted
some, but it was not so good as the rose-apple; we
called it the white-apple. Itis aspecies of Lugenia.

A short distance to the south-west of our camp,
is a range of round hills, of moderate height,
covered with grass, and thinly timbered with box
and other species of eucalyptus, resembling the
iron-bark. These hills are composed of huge blocks
of coarse granite, with a stiff soil, and appear to
stretch a long distance to the west.

July 1st.—Mr. Kennedy returned this morning,
having explored the country for about forty miles,
over which he thought we might travel safely.
There being plenty of grass however at the camp,
and the men no better, he determined to defer our
advance till Monday.

July 2nd.— Being Sunday, prayers were read at
eleven o’clock.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 158

July 3rd.— arly this morning we prepared to
start, but Luff and Douglas being seized with a fit
of ague, we were compelled to stop. Although our
horses had all the way had abundance of feed, they
began to grow very thin—several of them very
weak, and one getting very lame, from bad feet.
The sheep also had fallen away very much, which I
attributed to the wet journey they had had; being
almost always wet, from crossing rivers and creeks.

July 4th.—Mr. Kennedy and three others roamed
this morning to some distance from the camp, when
they were followed by a tribe of natives, making
threatening demonstrations, and armed with spears ;
one spear was actually thrown, when Mr. Kennedy,
fearing for the safety of his party, ordered his men
to fire upon them ; four of the natives fell, but Mr.
Kennedy could not ascertain whether more than
one was killed, as the other three were immediately
carried off into the scrub.

July 5th.—Luff and Douglas now began to get
better, but being still unable to walk, we could not
break up our camp.

July 6th.— We started early this morning, and
crossed two creeks with narrow belts of scrub on
each side, running north-east. I have little doubt
these creeks run into the river we crossed on the 8th
of June. The banks of the second creek were
nearly twenty feet high, so that we were obliged to
lower down the carts into its bed by means of ropes
and pulleys, fastened to the branches of the trees

154 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

which overhung the creek. The horses were got
into the creek with a great deal of difficulty, then
harnessed to the carts, and we proceeded along the
bed. of the creek till we arrived at a spot where the
banks on the opposite side were not so steep. At
this place by harnessing six horses to each of the
carts, we managed to get them all out of the
creek without any accident. The bed of the creek
was composed of granite pebbles. We encamped
on the northern side of it, the soil beg a strong
clayey loam, well covered with grass two or three
feet high, so thick that it was difficult to walk
through it. The country here was hilly open forest-
land, with a high range before us, running north-
east. The trees were principally Moreton Bay ash,
box, and another species of eucalyptus, resembling
the common iron-bark, but with long narrow leaves.
I also found a magnificent species of G'revillea,
with fine pinnatifid silvery leaves, and beautiful
racemes of orange-coloured flowers; also another
tree belonging to the same natural order, rivalling
the Grevillea in the beauty of its flowers, producing
an abundance of cream-coloured blossoms, on com-
pound, terminal racemes. In the scrub by the side
of the creek, I found a most beautiful Scitamineous
plant, the foliage, root, and habit of which resembled
Hedychium. The beauty of the plant consisted in
its large, stiff, shining bractee, which continue to
grow after the small pink blossoms have fallen.
The bractee are about half an inch broad at the

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 155

base, slightly curved inwards, and tapering to a
point. The heads of the flowers, resembling a
pine-apple in shape and size, and of a beautiful
crimson colour, are produced on the top of a strong
flower-stem, 18 inches high, and they will retain
their shape and colour for a month after being cut.
This plant appears to be very local in its habits, as
I only caught sight of it by the side of three creeks,
and always in moist, shady places. I obtained
seeds, and also packed some of its fleshy, tuberous
roots in a tin case.

We saw but few wallabies; and not one kangaroo
or emu had as yet been seen by any of the party.
The country was not open enough for them to
inhabit.

July 7th.—We started at daylight, proceeding
over open forest ground covered with long grass,
very thick and luxuriant. Travelling was rendered
still more difficult by the large logs of dead wood
which strewed the ground in every direction, and
which much impeded the progress of the carts.
We camped by the side of a creek, with a narrow
belt of scrub on the south-east side, but apparently
a wide extent of it on the other. This creek had a
large sandy bed ; with large Castanospermums, Tris-
tanias, and Sarcocephali, growing on its banks,
which were rather steep. It had a very tortuous
course, coming from the south-west and turning: east
a little below our camp, which was in a bend of the
creek.

156 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

July 8th.—We were employed nearly all this
day in cutting through very thick scrub on the other
side of the creek. Whilst doing so we had to cross
several other smaller ones, all turning east, and in
the evening we camped on a small patch of open
forest land, covered with long coarse grass, and
large blocks of coarse granite rock jutting out here
and there.

July 9th.—This being Sunday we halted for the
day, and prayers were read at eleven o’clock.

July 10th and 11th.—We continued throughout
these days cutting through belts of scrub, and cross-
ing small creeks, running from the west and north-
west, and turning east. During the latter day we
were visited by a small tribe of natives, who appeared
very friendly and did not stop long. I found a
large quantity of Castanospermum seeds in one of
the creeks, apparently put there to steep by the
natives, who use them for food. They informed me
that they steep them in water for five days, and
then cut them into thin slices and dry them in the
sun; they are then pounded between two large
stones, and the meal beine moistened with water is
baked on a flat stone, raised from the ground a few
inches, with a small fire burning beneath. I after-
wards saw some of the meal baked, but it was not
very palatable.

July 12th and 18th.—Our journey still continued
through scrub, intersected by small creeks, which
we had to cross, and by patches here and there of

“~

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 157

open .forest ground, covered with long grass, the
soil a stiff loam. We were not able to make much
progress, travelling on the average from three to
five miles a day. We were compelled to cut away
the scrub, and the banks of some of the creeks, before
we were able to cross them, and were frequently
obliged to run a creek up and down some distance
before we could find a place where it was passable
at all.

July 14th.—We started very early this morning,
and commenced travelling over very uneven ground,
full of small hillocks, and having the appearance of
being frequently inundated, the grass growing very
high and luxuriantly over it. Owing to the irregu-
larities of the surface the axle-tree of one of our carts
grave way this day. We were forced to leave the
cart and harness behind, and load the horses with
the spare pack-saddles we had brought with us,
covering over the load of each horse with a piece of
tarpaulin. We travelled on till dusk, when we
arrived at a small creek, over-grown with grass,
which we imagined we should cross with little diffi-
culty ; but the carts were set fast in the mud, and
some of the horses got bogged. We were forced to
carry the loading of our carts and saddle horses
over on our shoulders, a task of no small difficulty
and labour, the mud giving way up to the knee at
every step. The horses were then safely taken
across, and we lifted out the carts and carried them
to the other side, finding that it was useless to

158 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

attempt to draw them out. It was ten o’clock at
night before we had got the things over, and as
soon as we had partaken of our late dinner we made
a large fire to dry our clothes, which had become
completely saturated by the labours of the day.

Mr. Kennedy arrived at the determination this
day, to leave the carts behind at this camp, as they
caused so much extra labour and delay in travelling.

July 16th.—Sunday, we halted, and had prayers
read at eleven o’clock.

July 17th—We got up early, and prepared all
the loads ready for starting, but we were obliged to
leave many things behind, that would have been
very essential to the successful prosecution of all the
objects of the expedition ; my specimen box, a cross-
cut saw, pickaxes, and various other articles which
it was considered were too heavy to be carried on
horseback. We, however, took good care that not
an ounce of provisions of any description should be
left behind. The sugar and tea were more compactly
packed than heretofore, and the packages in which
they had formerly been carried were left behind.

Near this camp a large swamp extended south-
westward, but it was clear of scrub, containing
nothing but Melaleucas of moderate size.

July 18th.— Having loaded the horses, we started
at eight o’clock this morning, in good hope and
high spirits, rejoicmg to have got rid of one great
impediment to our progress. The blacks regarded
us with curious interest as we proceeded on our way,

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 159

forming a train of twenty-six horses, followed by
the sheep, and Mitchell occasionally sounding a
horn he had brought with him.

We all felt the inconvenience of leaving the carts
behind, and I in particular. I was now obliged to
make two strong bags to fit my specimen boards,
and to hang them over a horse’s back, one bag on
each side, a very inconvenient method, as it rendered
them liable to much damage going through the
scrub. The sheep at this time had grown very thin
and poor, not averaging more than thirty pounds
when skinned and dressed; they had, however,
become so habituated to following the horses that
they cost us very little trouble in driving them.

After travelling about six miles through open
forest land we camped near a creek on the skirts of
a thick scrub.

July 19th.—We were cutting through scrub all
day, skirting numerous small creeks which we met
with here, most of them running to the eastward.
The soil was rather stiff, and indicated a rocky
formation, blocks of granite projecting from it in
various directions.

July 20th, 21st, and 22nd.— During these three
days we travelled over an irregular, mountainous
country, intersected by numerous creeks, running in
every direction, but all of them with belts of scrub on
each side. We sometimes crossed the same creeks
two or three times a day, owing to the tortuous
directions they took, and our clothes were kept wet

160 _ KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

all the day ; some of them too had very steep banks,
which presented another obstacle to the progress of
our horses. Between the creeks, small patches. of
open forest land intervened, with large blocks of rock
scattered over them; most of the creeks had a rocky
bottom, and were running to the eastward.

July 23rd.—Sunday,—we had prayers read as
usual at eleven o’clock, and halted for the day.

July 24th.—We resumed our journey through
the same description of country, cutting through
scrub, and occasionally travelling through open land,
timbered principally with Moreton Bay ash, box,
and flooded-gum, and covered with very long grass.
We crossed two creeks running to the northward,
on the side of the last of which we camped. We
were here compelled to shoot one of our horses,
which had fallen lame. During the week we had.
made very little progress, being forced to turn in
every direction to avoid the deep gulleys, and the
serub which invariably prevailed in the bends of the
creeks. A tribe of natives visited us at this camp,
and appeared very friendly ; they did not stop with
us long. I saw to-day several trees of the “white
apple,” as we called it, and which I have before
described.

July 25th.—We entered the scrub on the side of
the creek, and proceeded along its banks with difi-
culty, being obliged to cut our way through, but it
grew less dense after we had skirted the creek a
short distance. We found the creek to be the

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 161

branch of a river, which here divided—one branch
running to the south-east (by which we had camped
yesterday)—-the other running east. It is rocky,
and shallow where it divides, but grows deeper in
its course towards the coast. It is about two
hundred yards wide, and its banks are overhung
with trees on each side. After following it about a
mile up, it grew much more shallow and narrow,
and had a rocky bottom.

On the opposite side were patches of open forest
ground, but they did not extend to any distance.
After skirting the river about three miles, we crossed
it in a shallow place, the bed of it being composed
of blocks of waterworn granite. The impediment
offered by these blocks rendered it very ditticult for
our horses to pass, although the water was only
from one to three feet deep. Several of the horses
fell in crossing this river; the one carrymg my
specimens fell three times, and my specimens and
seeds received much damage, if they were not
entirely spoiled.

The river here runs from the north-west. We
crossed it and entered the scrub, but not being able
to get through it before dark, we tied our horses to
trees, and slept by them all night.

July 27th—We were cutting through scrub
nearly all day, and having recrossed the river, cut
our way to the top of a high hill, which we could
not avoid. We found a patch of open ground on
the hill, with grass for our horses and sheep. The

VOL. II. M

162 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

trees growing on the hill were casuarinas, and
acacias, with a few box-trees. Here we camped and
tethered our horses, for fear they should fall down
the steep bank of the river. At the foot of the hill,
on the opposite side of this river, the rocks were of
great height, and almost perpendicular. The river
runs through a range of hills coming from the east-
ward, joming a very high range, over which our
Journey now lay. This range is composed of a dark
coloured granite, very hard; near the water was a
vein of tale schist, running north-west and south-
east. On the top of the hill we found large pebbles
of quartz.

July 28th.—This morning, having loosed our
horses from the tether, one of them fell down from
the hill upon a ledge of hard rock at the edge of the
river, a descent of thirty feet; he was so much
injured by the fall that he died during the day.
We came down the hill through the scrub towards
the mountains, and camped but a short distance
from where we rested the previous evening. We
were now at the foot of the range.

July 29th.—Mr. Kennedy proceeded to explore
the range, to ascertain the best spot to cross it,
it being covered with thick scrub. It runs from the
southward and turns eastward. I dug up a piece
of ground here near the edge of the scrub, and
sowed seeds of cabbage, turnip, rock and water
melons, parsley, leek, pomegranate, cotton, and

apple pips.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 1638

I here found a beautiful orchideous plant, with
the habit of Bletia Tankervillie, flowering in the
Same manner, with flower-stems about three feet
high, and from twelve to twenty flowers on each
stem. The sepals were much larger than those
of Bletia, and of a rich purple colour; the column
yellow, with a spur at the base of the flower
about three-fourths of an inch long. I packed
some of its thick fleshy roots in a tin case. I also
here obtained specimens of a beautiful Hovea, with
long lanceolate leaves,—a much finer shrub than H.
Celsii. Also a species of Hibiscus, with rough
palmate leaves, large bright sulphur-coloured flowers,
with a rich purple spot at the base of each petal, the
stamens and stigma bright red, the blossoms when
fully expanded eight inches in circumference; the
plant has a very erect habit. Also another Hibiscus,
with obcordate tomentose leaves, and pink flowers ;
both these last were very handsome shrubs. The
trees on the open ground were casuarinas and
flooded-gums, with a few Balfourias. Although we
had a very difficult task before us—the ascent of the
hills—our spirits did not fail us; but the horses
began to look very poor and weak, although they
had always had plenty of grass.

July 31st.—Harly this morning Mr. Kennedy,
Jackey, and four others left the camp, and began
clearing a way up the mountain. They remained
out the whole of the day.

Aug. 1st-—Mr. Kennedy and his party returned

M 2

164 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

to the camp, having determined on a route by
which we should proceed up the mountain. Mr.
Kennedy spoke very highly of Jackey, and thought
him one of the best men of the party for cutting
away scrub and choosing a path; he never seemed
tired, and was very careful to avoid deep gullies.

Aug. 8rd.—We started early this morning, and
proceeded up a spur of the range, in a north-
westerly direction, but could not get so far as they
had cleared. We managed to get twenty-three
horses and their loads up to a flat place on the
range, but, after several efforts, being unable to
drive or lead the other horse up, we left him tied to
a tree in the scrub. We found him all right the
next morning, but as there was nothing but scrub
before us, Mr. Kennedy thought it prudent to send
the horses back to where there was grass and water
for them, whilst some of the party cleared a path.
After we had entered the scrub, we crossed a small
creek, running rapidly, and which joined another
running from the north-eastward, and which at
their junction, form the river we had been camped
at for the last few previous days.

The creeks ran over precipitous rocky falls, and it
was Mr. Kennedy’s opinion, that all the creeks we
have met with on this side (coast side) the range,
run into the swamps, and there spread, and gather-
ing again, form into channels and run into Rocking-
ham Bay. There is a large tract of land opposite
Rockingham Bay which is occupied by swamps,

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 165

intersected by patches of open ground, and a few
peaked hills. The swamps extend about forty-five
miles, to about 145° 20’ east longitude. It seemed
that a great deal of rain had fallen over this
country, and it rained at intervals all the time we
were in the vicinity of Rockingham Bay—from the
21st of May to the middle of August. It was Mr.
Kennedy’s opinion that the rainy season occurred
very late this year. The whole peninsula seemed to
fall from the east towards the west.

Aug. 4th.—-Mitchell, Dunn, and myself, took the
horses and sheep to grass and water, and having
hobbled the former, we made ourselves a small hut
with saplings, and covered it with a small tarpaulin.
We divided the night watch into three parts, being
four hours each.

Aug. 5th—We mustered the horses morning
and evening, and drove the sheep close to the fire,
having one of our kangaroo dog's chaimed up beside
them, and the other one with the sheep dog loose.
We were apprehensive that the natives might attack
us.

Aug. 6th.—Shortly after we had mustered the
cattle this morning, seven or eight natives appeared
at the edge of the scrub, in the direction from which
we had come. Just as they approached, an Aus-
tralian mag‘pie perched upon a tree, and I shot it to
shew the effect of our fire-arms. On hearing the
report of the gun they all ran into the scrub, and
we saw them no more. On all occasions it was Mr.

166 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

Kennedy’s order—not to fire on the blacks, unless
they molested us. I was anxious on this occasion
not to let the natives know how few we were, and
was glad to send them away in so quiet a manner.
One of our sheep died this day, and as we had lost
several before, and had but little to employ us, we
opened it to see if we could ascertain the cause
of its death. We found its entrails full of water.
Our party was now divided into three bodies:
Mr. Kennedy, Jackey, and four others, clearing a
way up the mountain; Niblett and three others
guarding the stores; whilst myself, Dunn, and
Mitchell, had charge of the sheep and horses. It
was necessary, therefore, for us to keep a good
look-out, and two of us watched together.

Aug. (th.—Early this morning a man came down
to help us with the horses and sheep. We loaded
our horses, with the exception of one, which was
too weak, and too much bruised from falling, to
travel. We turned him toward the open ground,
and having packed our horses, went on till dark,
when we tied our horses to a tree and lav down for
the night beside them, although it rammed all night.
We had each of us a water can which held five
pints, which we filled, and our two water kegs, at
the foot of the range, fearing we might not find
water in the journey over.

Aug. 8th—At daylight we were afoot and
breakfasted, and started immediately after. We
travelled up the hills all dav, but made very little

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 167

progress, owing to the great labour of clearing, and
the numerous steep ascents we met with. We
fortunately found water in a low place, and with
difficulty lighted a fire, everything being saturated
with rain. We then laid down and endeavoured to
sleep, but were unable to do so from the number of
small leeches which attacked us. I was obliged to
get up several times in the night, and in the
morning I found myself covered with blood.

Aug. 9th—We started at daylight, although it
was raining’, and continued to do so all day ; about
six o’clock in the evening we reached a small river,
running rapidly over rocks, and deep in some places.
Its course was north-easterly, but it turned north, a
little below where we first came upon it. We
camped by the side of it, it being too late to cross,
although there was open forest ground on the other
side. The open ground on the coast side of the
range was considerably lower than that on the other,
the highest part of our track being, according to
Mr. Kennedy’s barometrical observations, upwards of
two thousand feet above the level of the sea. The
soil was a strong loam of a dark colour, owing to
the admixture of a great deal of decomposed vege-
table matter; rock projected in many places, and in
those parts where the rocks were near the surface,
Callitris (cypress pine) grew. In the deeper soil
were large trees of the genera Castanospermum,
Lophostemon, and Cedrela, mingled with Achras
Australis, Calamus (climbing palm), Seaforthia,

168 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

Dicksonia, Osmunda, and large shrubs of Alyaia ;
several very interesting Orchidew were also found
im this place. We also discovered a-great many
snails, with large shells of a greyish colour. One
I found on the bushes with an operculum,—this I
gave to Wall.

Aug. 10th.—This morning we took the sheep and
horses to a spot in the river where the current was
not so strong, and drove them across. The sheep
followed the horses like dogs. We then cut down
three small straight trees, and made a bridge across
a deep channel which ran between two rocks which
projected out of the water, across which we carried
the stores on our backs. All the things were got
over before dark, after which we made a large fire
to dry ourselves, having been wet to the waist all
day. Niblett, who had been very unwell for three
or four days, was taken much worse to-day. The
position of our camp here was about 17° 48’ 8.
latitude, 145° 20' EK. longitude. We this day crossed
the range, and prepared to commence our journey
on the other side.

Aug. 11th.—We remained this day at the camp
to give the horses a rest after their harassing
journey over the range.

Aug. 12th.—Proceeding about five miles over
uneven open forest ground, with isolated blocks of
rock, we camped by a chain of rocky water-holes.
The trees growing here were casuarina, box, apple-
eum, and iron-bark.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 169

Aug. 13th.—Sunday. Prayers as usual at eleven
o’clock. :

Aug. 14th.—Complaint was made to Mr. Ken-
nedy of the waste and extravagant use of the flour
and sugar by Niblett, who had the charge of the
stores. Mr. Kennedy immediately proceeded to
examine the remainder of the stores, when he found
that Niblett had been making false returns of the
stores issued weekly. Up to this time Mr. Ken-
nedy, Niblett, and Douglas (who waited on Mr.
Kennedy), had messed together, apart from the
other ten. Niblett took charge of the ration for
the smaller mess, and usually cooked it himself, the
ration being taken out weekly from that weighed
for the whole party. Besides issuing a larger
ration to his own mess, Niblett had taken a great
deal from the stores for himself.

On finding this out, Mr. Kennedy requested me
to take charge of the stores, and issue them to the
cook for the week, and from this date we all messed
together. We had at this time about seven hundred
Ibs. of flour left. Everything was weighed in the
presence of the whole party before I took charge,
and I always weighed out every week’s ration in
the presence of the cook and two other parties. At
this camp it was found necessary to reduce our
ration to the following scale per week; fifty lbs.
flour, twelve lbs. sugar, two and three-quarters lbs.
tea, and the sheep as before—one every second day.
After the ration was cooked, it was divided by the

170 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

cook at every meal. We this day burned our
sheepfold to lighten our loads a little.

Aug. 15th——We were cutting through scrub
nearly all day, and crossed several small creeks
running westward. This day the horse carrying
my specimens had become so poor and weak that he
fell five different times, and we were obliged to
relieve him of his load, which was now placed on
one of Mr. Kennedy’s horses; but we soon found
that even without a load he could not travel. We
took off his saddle, bridle, and tether rope, and left
him behind on a spot of good grass, where plenty of
water was to be found.

The country here had a rugged and broken
appearance; huge blocks of rock were lying on the
open ground, sometimes one irregularly placed on
the top of another, and of curious shapes. The hills
as well as the valleys were generally covered with
good grass, excepting in the scrub. On some of
the hills the rocks were shivered into irregular
pieces, and displayed crystals of quartz, small
lamine of mica, and occasionally hornblende. This
evening we camped by the side of a fine casuarina
creek, coming from the north-east. Immediately
over our camp its waters ran over a very hard
“trap-rock” of a black colour, the soil a stiff loam.

Aug. 16th.— We travelled on for the most part of
this day over irregular, barren, stony ridges, and
gullies, intersected by numerous small creeks, and
abounding im rocky holes, all containing plenty of
water.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 171

Two more of our horses fell several times this
day ; one of them being very old, and so weak that
we were obliged to lift him up. We now made
up our minds for the first time, to make our horses,
when too weak to travel, available for food; we
therefore killed him, and took meat enough from
his carcass to serve our party for two days, and by
this means we saved a sheep. We boiled the heart,
liver, and a piece of the meat to serve us for our
breakfast next day. We camped in the evening in
the midst of rocky, broken hills, covered with dwarf
shrubs and stunted gum-trees; the soil in which
they grew appearing more sandy than what we had
yet passed on this side of the range. The shrubs
here were Dodonea, Fabricia, Daviesia, Jacksonia,
and two or three dwarf species of acacia, one of which
was very showy, about three feet high, with very
small, oblong’, sericeous phyllodia, and globular heads
of bright yellow flowers, produced in great abun-
dance on axillary fascicles ; also a very fine legu-
minous shrub, bearing the habit and appearance of
Callistachys, with fine terminal spikes of purple
decandrous flowers, with two small bracteze on the
foot-stalk of each flower, and with stipulate, oval,
lanceolate leaves, tomentose beneath, leeumes small
and flattened, three to six seeded, with an arillus as
large as the seed; these were flowering from four
to twelve feet high. There was plenty of grass in
the valleys of the creeks.. To the S.W. on the hills
the grasses were FRestio, Acrotes, and a spiny

172 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

grass which neither the horses nor the sheep would

eat.
Aug. 17th.—This morning we commenced to

prepare our breakfast of horse-flesh. I confess we
did not feel much appetite for the repast, and some
would not eat it at all; but our scruples soon gave
way beneath the pangs of hunger, and at supper
every man of the party ate heartily of it, and
afterwards each one claimed his share of the mess
with great avidity. The country to the north and
north-west—the course we intended to pursue—
looking very rugged and broken, we were discou-
raged from proceeding further this day, as the weak
state of our horses prevented us from making almost
any progress. We therefore camped by the side of
a small rocky creek, winding through the mountains
in all directions.

Aug. 18th.—Shortly after starting this morning
we crossed a creek, running south-west, with a few
arborescent Cullistemons growing out of the rocks
here and there. The horse which Mr. Wall had
been riding had grown so weak that it was unable
to travel, even with nothing to carry but the saddle.
As we were passing along the side of a hill, he fell
and rolled down intoa gully. Being quite a young
horse we thought he might regain strength, and did
not like to kill him, so we left him and proceeded to
find a good place for camping, which we did after
travelling about four miles in the north-west direc-
tion, by the side of a fine river, with steep reedy

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 173

banks, lined with large casuarinas and flooded-gum
trees, and abundance of grass growing in the valley
of the river. At this camp the feet of our horses
were all carefully examined by Costigan, who was
a blacksmith: it was also his duty to mark the
number of each of our camps on some adjacent
tree.

Aug. 19th.—Wall rode back to see if he could
bring up the horse we had left behind, but on
reaching the spot found him dead; one of our
kangaroo dogs had also stopped behind by the
horse, being unable to follow us to the camp. We
had the good luck to succeed in catching several
fish in the river, and, what was better, shot a fine
wallaby, which saved us another sheep. We had
all along been particularly unfortunate in getting
any thing from the bush to add to our mess, not
having been able either to shoot or catch any thing
for some time past except a few pigeons and two or
three brown hawks.

The river by which we were camped was running
west by south: below our camp it was not nearly so
wide as at the spot where we came upon it. Where
it turned through the hills its banks were rocky and
steep, and the bed narrow, but running rapidly.
The hills here, as well as the valley of the river,
were well covered with grass. The position of the
camp was in about 17° 80’ south latitude, and
145° 12’ east longitude.

Ang. 20th, 21st, 22nd.—During the whole of

174 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

these three days we travelled over undulating open
land, wooded pretty thickly with stringy-bark, box,
and apple-gum, interspersed with occasional sandy
flats, producing a broad-leafed Melaleuca, and a
pretty species of G'revillea, with pinnatifid, silvery
leaves. Neither the Melaleuca nor the Grrevillea
grew more than twenty feet high. On the flats we
found a great number of ant-hills, remarkable for
their height and size; they were of various forms,
chiefly conical, and some of them rose ten feet high.
From the appearance of the ant-hills I should take
the sub-soil to be a reddish clay.

Aug. 23rd.—We camped by the side of a creek
running to the westward, with rather a broad bed,
and steep banks of strong clay. There was no
water im the creeks except in holes.

A tribe of natives, from eighteen to twenty in
number, were seen coming down the creek, each
carrying a large bundle of spears. Three of our
party left the camp and went towards them, carry-
ing in their hands green boughs, and making signs
to the blacks to lay down their spears and come to
us. Atter making signals to them for some minutes,
three or four of them laid down their spears and
approached us. I went back to the camp and
fetched a few fish-hooks, and a tin plate marked
with Mr. Kennedy’s initials; having presented
them with these they went away and appeared
quite friendly. Shortly after we had camped,
Goddard and Jackey went out for the purpose of

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 175

shooting wallabies; they parted company at the
base of a hill, intending to go round and meet on
the other side, but, missing each other, Jackey re-
turned to the camp without his companion. To
our great alarm Goddard did not return all night,
although we kept up a good fire as a beacon to
shew him where we were camped, and fired a pistol
every five minutes during: the night.

Aug. 24th.—Three of our party, accompanied by
Jackey, rode to the spot where the latter had left
Goddard on the previous day, intending, if possible,
to track him, and succeeded in doing so for some
distance to the eastward, but then coming to some
stony ground, they lost the track.

They returned in about six hours, hoping to find
him at the camp, but were disappointed. We now
began to fear that our companion was lost, and
poor Jackey displayed great uneasiness, fearing that
he might be blamed for leaving him, and repeatedly
saying that he did not wish Goddard to leave the
camp at all, and that he had waited for him some
time on the opposite side of the hill, where they were
to meet. Jour fresh horses were saddled, and
Jackey, with Mr. Kennedy, Wall, and Mitchell,
were just on the point of starting to renew the
search, when to our great joy we observed him at a
distance, approaching the camp. It would have
been sadly discouraging to the whole party to have
lost one of our companions in so wild and desolate
a spot. We made but a short stage to-day in a

176 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

northerly direction, and camped by the side of a
creek running west by south, which, with the last
two creeks we had passed, we doubted not, from
the appearance of the country, ran into the river
we had crossed on the 20th inst. The country
appeared to fall considerably to the westward. All
the rivers and large creeks we had. seen on this side
the range (that crossed on the 10th instant) rose in
or near the coast range, and appeared to run
westerly across the peninsula into the Gulf of Car-
pentaria.

Although few of them appeared to be constantly
running, yet there is an abundance of water to be
found in holes and reaches of the rivers and creeks.
Where there was any scrub by the side of the
creeks, it was composed principally of the climbing
palm (calamus), Glyceria, Kennedya, Mucuna, and
a strong growing Ipomea, with herbaceo-fibrous
roots, and palmate leaves; and in a few places
bamboos were growing.

The trees were, Hugenias, Terminalias, Castano-
spermums, with two or three kinds of deciduous figs,
bearing large bunches of yellowish fruit on the
trunks. Although we frequently partook of these
fies I found they did not agree with us; three or
four of the party who frequently ate a great quan-
tity, although advised not to do so, suffered severely
from pain in the head and swelling of the eyes.
The forest trees on the iron-stone ridges were
stringy-bark, and on the grassy hills, box, Moreton

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 177

Bay ash, and a tree belonging to the natural order
Leguminose, with axillary racemes of white apeta-
lous flowers, long, broad, flat, many seeded legumes,
large, bipinnate leaves, leaflets oval, one inch long,
—and having dark fissured bark ; on the flat stiff soil
grew iron-bark, apple-tree, and another species of
Angophora, with long lanceolate leaves, seed vessels
as large as the egg of a common fowl, and a smooth
yellow bark.

Aug. 27th—This day being Sunday we had
prayers at eleven o’clock. We saved the blood of
the sheep we had killed for to-day’s food, and
having cut up the heart, liver, and kidneys, we mixed
it all with a little flour and boiled it for breakfast.
By this means we made some small saving, and it
was a dish that we were very fond of. We saved
all the wool that we could get from our sheep, for
the purpose of stuffing our saddles, a process which
was frequently required, owing to the poor condition
of our horses.

Aug. 28th.—We started early this morning, but
had not travelled far when one of our horses fell
from weakness; we placed him on his legs four
times during the day, but finding the poor animal
could not walk, we shot him and took suflicient
meat from him with us to last for two days. After
making but a short stage, over iron-stone ridges,
covered with stringy-bark, and loamy flats, producing
Melaleucas and G'revilleas, we camped beside a
small creek, in the sandy bed of which there was no

VOL. II. N

178 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

water, but from which we soon obtained some by
digging a hole about two feet deep. We after-
wards found there was plenty of water in the creek
higher up to the eastward.

Aug. 29th.—We were obliged to leave another
horse behind us this morning as he was quite
unable to travel. We camped by the sandy bed of
a very broad river, with water only in reaches and
holes. There is, however, evidently a great deal of
water running here occasionally, as the bed of the
river was six or seven hundred yards wide, with two
or three channels. The flood marks on the trees
were fifteen feet high; it has a north-easterly
course; its bed was composed in places of large
blocks of granite and trap rock, which was very
difficult to walk upon, being very slippery. Fine
melaleucas were growing on each side, which with
their long pendulous shoots, and narrow silvery
leaves, afforded a fine shade from the heat of the
sun. There was plenty both of grass and water
for the horses, but most of them continued to grow
weaker.

Aug. 30th and 31st—The country was very
mountainous, and so full of deep gullies, that we
were frequently obliged to follow the course of a
rocky creek, the turnings of which were very
intricate; to add to our difficulties, many of the
hills were covered with scrub so thickly that it was
with much difficulty that we could pursue our
course through it. We had intended to have kept

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 179

along the bank of the river, thinking it might lead
us to Princess Charlotte’s Bay, and although unable
to do so, we did not as yet lose sight of the river
altogether.

Sept. 1st.—All this day we continued travelling
over very uneven country, full of precipitous rocks
and gullies, until we came to a bend of the river:
we now followed it in its tortuous course through
the rocks, till we came to a flat country where
its channels were divided by high green banks,
on which were growing large drooping tea-trees
(melaleucas); growing on these I found a beautiful
species of Loranthus, with large fascicles of orange-
coloured flowers, the leaves cordate, and clasping
the stem. On the hills I found a Brachychiton,
with crimson flowers; the tree had a stunted growth,
with deciduous leaves. I collected as much of
the gum as I could, and advised the others to do the
same; we ate it with the roasted seeds, but were
unable to find much of the gum or of the seeds.

Sept. 2nd.—We travelled over uneven rocky
ground, and crossed several gullies, and camped by
the bed of a river, at a spot where there were fine
reaches of water, full of Nymphea and Villarsia.
There was plenty of good grass in the valley of the
river, which was not very wide here, but on the
hills many parts had been recently burned, and the
erass was just springing up.

Sept. 8rd.—Sunday. We had prayers at eleven

o’clock, and afterwards, durmg the day, we shot
N 2

180 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

a small emu and a kangaroo. Being camped by
‘the side of the river, we were able to catch a few
fish, which were a most acceptable change to us.

The country through which we had passed for
the last two days consisted of a good stiff soil, well
covered with grass, openly timbered and well
watered.

Sept. 4th and 5th.— The country continued
much the same, making travelling most difficult
and laborious. We were now in the vicinity of
Cape Tribulation. While traversing the bed of
the river, in which we were in many places obliged
to travel, we passed two very high peaked hills to
the westward.

Sept. 6th.— We now found the river beginning
to run in all directions through the hills, over which
it was impossible to travel. We were consequently
forced to keep in the bed of the river, our horses
falling every few minutes, in consequence of the
slippery surface of the rocks over which they were
obliged to pass—consisting of dark granite.

The sterility of the hills here is much relieved
by the bunches of beautiful large yellow flowers of
the Cochlospermum Gossypium, interspersed with
the large balls of white cotton, just bursting from
the seed-vessels. I collected a bag full of this
cotton, wherewith to stuff our pack-saddles, as our
sheep did not supply us with wool enough for that
purpose. On these hills, too, I saw a beautiful
Calythria, with pink flowers, and two or three very

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 181

pretty dwarf acacias. As Mr. Kennedy and myself
were walking first of the party, looking out for the best
path for the horses to travel in, I fell with violence,
and unfortunately broke Mr. Kennedy’s mountain
barometer, which I carried. I also bruised one of
my fingers very much, by crushing it with my gun.

Sept. 7th and 8th.—We continued following the
river during its westward course, through a very
mountainous country. On the hills I saw a very
handsome Bauhinia, a tree about twenty feet
high, with spreading branches covered with axillary
fascicles of red flowers, long broad flat legumes,
pinnate leaves, leaflets oval, about one inch long ;
an Lrythrina, with fine racemes of orange-coloured
flowers, with long narrow keel, and broad vexillum,
leaves palmate, and three to five lunate leaflets,
long, round, painted legumes, red seeds ; also a rose-
coloured Brachychiton, with rather small flowers, a
deciduous tree of stunted habit, about twenty feet
high. We also passed narrow belts of low sandy
loam, covered with Banksias, broad-leafed Mela-
leucas, and the orange-coloured Grevillea I have
before spoken of. On these flats we again met
with large ant-hills, six to ten feet high, and eight
feet in circumference ; the land at the base was of a
reddish colour.

Sept. 9th.—We had a fine view of the surrounding
country from the top of a high hill, in the midst of
a range over which we passed. To the west and
round to the south the country appeared to be fine

182 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

undulating forest land, intersected by numerous
creeks and small rivers falling considerably to the
westward, as in fact all the water had been
running for some days past. Doubtless there must
be plenty of water in the holes and reaches of these
rivers and creeks at all seasons, but in the rainy
season many of them must be deep and rapid
streams, as the flood marks on the trees were from
fifteen to twenty feet high. The river along the
course of which we had been so long travelling
varied in width from two hundred to eight hundred
yards. It has two, or, in some places, three distinct
channels, and in the flat country through which
it passes these are divided by large drooping mela-
leucas.

It is singular that the country here should be so
destitute of game; we had seen a few wallabies and
some ducks, but were seldom able to shoot any
of them; we had not seen more than four or five
emus altogether since we started; a few brown
hawks which we occasionally shot, were almost the
only addition we were enabled to make to our small
ration. To-day we got an iguana and two ducks,
which, with the water in which our mutton was
boiled, would have made us a good pot of soup, had
there been any substance in the mutton. Even
thin as it was, we were very glad to get it. The rivers
also seemed to contain but few fish, as we only
caught a few of two different kinds, one of which
without scales, resembled the cat-fish caught near

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 183

Sydney ;* the other was a dark thick fish with
scales.

Sept. 10th.—Finding that the river continued
running to the westward, and not as we had hoped
towards Princess Charlotte’s Bay, we left it and
turned in a northerly direction, travelling over very
rocky ridges covered with cochlospermums and aca-
cias, interspersed with occasional patches of open
forest land, and strewed with isolated blocks of
coarse granite containing crystals of quartz and
laminze of white mica. Prayers as usual at eleven
o’clock.

We had not seen natives for several days, but
this night, whilst one of the party was keeping
watch, a short distance from the fire, about eleven
o'clock, he heard the chattermg of the blacks.
Three spears were almost immediately thrown into
the camp and fell near the fire, but fortunately
without injuring any of the party. We fired a few
shots in the direction from which the spears came ;
the night being so dark that we could not see them.
We entertained fears that some of our horses might
be speared, as they were at some distance from the
camp, but fortunately the blacks offered us no
further molestation.

Sept. 11th and 12th.—We pursued our northern
course, the ground becoming very rotten; by the
sides of small creeks in sandy flats were belts of
broad-leafed Melaleucas and Grevilleas. We met

* Plotosus macrocephalus,

184 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

with scrubs of Leptospermum, Fabricia, and Do-
donea. By the creeks, when the ground was sandy,
we saw Abrus precatorius, and a small tree about
fifteen feet high, with bi-pinnate leaves, the leaflets
very small, with long flat legumes containing ten
or twelve black and red seeds, like those of Abrus
precatorius, but rather larger.

Sept. 18th and 14th.—Most part of these days we
travelled over a country of stiff soil, covered with
iron-bark, and divided at intervals by belts of sandy
ground, on which grew Banksias, Callitris, and a
very pretty Lophostemon, about twenty feet high,
with long narrow lanceolate leaves, and a very round
bushy top. By the side of the small streams
running through the flat ground, I saw a curious
herbaceous plant, with large pitchers at the end of
the leaves, like those of the common pitcher-plant
‘(Nepenthes destillatoria). It was too late in the
season to find flowers, but the flower-stems were
about eighteen inches high, and the pitchers would
hold about a wine-glass full of water. This in-
teresting and singular plant very much attracted
the attention of all our party.

We here fell in with a camp of natives. Imme-
diately on seeing us they ran away from their camp,
leaving behind them some half-cooked food, con-
sisting of the meal of some seeds, (most likely
Moreton Bay chesnuts), which had been moistened,
and laid in small irregular pieces on a flat stone
with a small fire beneath it. We took a part of

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 185

this baked meal, leaving behind some fish hooks as
payment. In the camp we also found a consider-
able quantity of Pandanus fruit, which grows very
plentifully here. Although, however, it is sweet
and pleasant to the taste, I found that the natives
did not eat largely of it, as it possessed very re-
laxing qualities, and caused violent headache, with
swelling beneath the eyes.

Some narrow belts of land we passed here be-
trayed indications of having been frequently inun-
dated by fresh water. The ground was very uneven,
full of small hillocks which were hidden by long
grass, which caused our weak horses to fall very
frequently.

Sept. 15th.—This day we had better travelling,
the soil becoming a strong greyish loam ; the forest
land open and free from scrub, the trees principally
consisting of iron-bark, box, and the leguminous
tree, with bi-pinnate leaves, and dark fissured bark
I have before alluded to. We saw here a great
many pigeons of various kinds; Mr. Wall shot one
pair of Geophaps plumifera, which he preserved ;
also a pair of small pigeons of a greyish colour,
with red round the eyes, which he considered new.
T also saw a large tree and obtained specimens of it,
belonging to the natural order Bignoniacee, with
terminal spikes of yellow flowers, and rough cordate
leaves ; and a Proteaceous plant with long compound
racemes of white flowers, and deeply cut leaves,
resembling a tree with true pinnate leaves. The

186 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

large seeded Angophora mentioned by me before,
also grew in this district.

About ten o’clock we came upon the banks of a
very fine river, with a very broad bed, and steep
banks on both sides. No doubt this was the river
we had seen to the eastward from our camp on the
9th instant. Mr. Kennedy considered this stream to
rise somewhere near Cape Tribulation, and after
running northward about thirty miles, to turn to
the south-west, the way it was running when we
came upon it. In this place it appeared a fine deep
river, and we followed it in its south-west course,
at a short distance from its banks, for six or seven
miles. The south-east bank was, for the last three
or four miles we traced it, covered with a narrow
belt of scrub, composed of Flagellaria, Jasminum,
Plhyllanthus, and a rambling plant, belonging to
the natural order Verbenacee, with terminal spikes
of white, sweet-scented flowers. The trees were
principally Castanospermum, Melia, Rulingia, and
Sarcocephalus, and a beautiful tree belonging to the
natural order Bombacee, probably to the genus
Eriodendron, with large spreading branches, which,
as well as the trunk, were covered with spines.
These trees are from thirty to fifty feet in height,
and produce large crimson campanulate flowers,
composed of five large stiff petals, about two inches
long; stamens numerous, all joming at the base,
and divided again into five parcels; the filaments
are the same length as the petals; five cleft stigma ;

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 187

large five-celled capsule, many seeded cells, the seeds
being wrapped in a white silky cotton. This tree
was deciduous, the leaves being palmate, and grew
on stiff soil: its large crimson flowers attracted
universal admiration.

We crossed the river at a spot where its banks
were not so steep, and where there was but from
one to three feet of water ; in some places the bottom
was sandy and in others rocky, but we could see
rock only in the bed of the river. We camped on
the side of the river, on some recently burned grass ;
five of the party went fishing a short distance up
the river, and caught a few fish. The country here
to the west and the south-west was open undulating
forest land, which had been burned some short time
before, and the grass just growing again, formed
beautiful feed for our horses and sheep.

Towards evening about six or eight natives made
their appearance, on the same side of the river as
our camp; when about two hundred yards from us
they shipped their spears in their throwing-sticks,
and with other warlike gestures gradually drew
near to us, making a great noise, doubtless thinking
to frighten us. There being a wide deep gully
between the natives and our camp, we drew up
along the edge of it, with our fire-arms all ready to
give them a warm reception should they endeavour
to approach to closer hostilities. We endeavoured
to make them understand that our intentions were
friendly, and that we wished them to be peaceable ;

188 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

but they seemed to construe our signals to make
them comprehend this, into indications of fear on
our part ; this increased their courage, and strength-
ened their determination to drive us away if possible,
although they would not come within reach of our
guns. We however fired at them, and although
none were hurt, they appeared much frightened at
the report of the fire-arms. They left us and went
in the direction taken by the five of our party who
had gone fishing, and for the safety of whom we
began to be alarmed; our fears were increased, by
hearing the report of a gun a few minutes after-
wards. It seemed they had seen our party fishing
by the side of the river, and instantly ran at them,
to attack them ; but one of the party placed on the
bank as a look-out, fired at them as they came up,
just as they were preparing to throw their spears,
on which they turned their backs, and took to flight
as fast as they could.

Sept. 16th.— This morning after breakfast,
Mitchell and myself took two horses and re-crossed
the river. We went about two miles back to a spot
where I had seen some Portulaca, intending to bring
some of it back to the camp to boil as a vegetable,
it being the only description of food of the kind that
we had been able to obtain throughout our journey.
We filled a bag with it and returned to the camp,
when I found half a damper, one meal’s bread, had
been stolen from the stores during my absence.
This was not the first theft of the kind that had

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 189

been committed, and it was found necessary to watch
the provisions night and day. Mr. Kennedy was
anxious to discover the thief in this instance, as it
was stolen in open daylight while Mr. Kennedy
himself was keeping a look-out in his tent, not
twenty yards from where the provisions were stolen ;
every man’s load was searched, but in vain, and Mr.
Kennedy, knowing that a party left the camp for
the purpose of fishing a short distance up the river,
and another party a few yards down the river to
wash some clothes—took Jackey with him, who,
by detecting some crumbs on the ground, discovered
that the damper had been eaten at the place where
the clothes were washed.

So careless were some of the party of the fatal
consequences of our provisions being consumed
before we arrived at Cape York, that as soon as we
camped and the horses were unpacked, it was
necessary that all the provisions should be deposited
together on a tarpaulin, and that I should be near
them by day and by night, so that I could not leave
the camp at all, unless Mr. Kennedy and Mr. Wall
undertook to watch the stores. I was obliged to
watch the food whilst cooking ; it was taken out of
the boiler in the presence of myself and two or three
others, and placed in the stores till morning.

It was seldom that I could go to bed before nine
or ten o’clock at night, and I had to be up at four
in the morning to see our tea made and sweetened,
and our breakfast served out by daylight. The

190 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

meals we cut up into thirteen parts, as nearly equal
as possible, and one person touched each part in
succession, whilst another person, with his back
turned, called out the names of the party, the person
named taking the part touched. The scrupulous
exactness we were obliged to practise with respect
to our provisions was increased by our misfortune in
getting next to nothing to assist our scanty ration ;
while the extreme labour to which we were subjected
increased our appetites. Two of the party always
went out at daylight to fetch the horses in, and it
was necessary we should start at early morning on
account of the great heat in the middle of the day.
We always endeavoured to make a fair stage by
ten o’clock, and then, if in a convenient place, to
halt : sometimes we were obliged to halt at nine
o’clock, but we started again generally about three
or four o’clock P.M., and travelled on till six.
Twelve or fourteen natives made their appearance
at the camp this evening, from the same direction as
on the previous day. ach one was armed with a
large bundle of spears, and with boomerangs. Their
bodies were painted with a yellowish earth, which,
with their warlike gestures, made them look very
ferocious. The grass in the position they had taken
up was very long and very dry, quite up to the edge
of the gully; they set it on fire in three or four
places, and the wind blowing from them to us, it
burned very rapidly. Thinking we should be
frightened at this display they followed the fire

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 191

with their spears shipped, making a most hideous
noise, and with the most savage gestures. Know-
ing the fire could not reach us, as there was nothing
to burn on our side the gully, we drew up towards
them with our fire-arms prepared. They approached
near enough to throw three spears into our camp,
one of which went quite through one of our tents.
No one was hurt, but a few of our party fired at
them; we could not tell whether any were wounded,
as they disappeared almost immediately. We kept
three on watch this night for fear of the natives.

Sept. 17th to 21st.— Leaving the river, we turned
north-west, and had occasionally fair travelling
over stiff soil, intersected by many creeks, most of
them dry, but were every where able to find water
at intervals of a few miles. We passed over some
ironstone ridges, and rocky hills, covered with
Callitris, Cochlospermum, and Sterculias. On the
stiff soil the trees were iron-bark, box, apple-gum,
and some large acacias, with long lanceolate
phyllodia, and large spikes of golden-coloured
flowers. The grass here in the valleys between the
hills had been burned, and was grown up again
about eight or ten inches high.

Sept. 22nd.—We crossed a creek running east-
ward, overhung by melaleucas and arborescent
callistemons, with plenty of grass on both sides ; the
soil appeared to become more sandy than that over
which we had hitherto passed.

Sept. 23rd.—We proceeded on our course, tra-

192 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

velling over sandy ridges covered with Hugenia,
Exocarpus, and a very pretty Eucalyptus, with
rose-coloured flowers and obcordate leaves, and
yellow soft bark; also a dwarfish tree with dark
ereen leaves, and axillary racemes of round mono-
spermons, fruit of a purple colour, with a thin rind
of a bitter flavour; also a great many trees of
moderate size, from fifteen to twenty feet high, of
rather pendulous habit, oval lanceolate exstipulate
leaves, loaded with an oblong yellow fruit, having
a rough stone inside; the part covering the stone
has, when ripe, a mealy appearance, and very good
flavour. I considered from its appearance it was the
fruit which Leichhardt called the “ nonda,” which
we always afterwards called it; we all ate plentifully
of it.

The weather for the last few days had been very
hot, the thermometer ranging’ in the shade from 95°
to 100° at noon; still there was generally a breeze
in the morning from the eastward, and in the
evening from the west. We camped by the same
creek as on the previous day, but in our present
position it was running §.W. with several lagoons
in the valley, full of Mymphea and Villarsia ; our
latitude here was 15° 33’ south.

Sept. 24th.—We crossed the creek and proceeded
northward, till we camped by a dry creek, from the
bed of which we obtained water by digging. Dur-
ing the day’s journey, we passed over some flats of
rotten honeycomb ground, on which nothing was

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 1938

growing but a few stunted shrubs, and a blue
herbaceous plant belonging to the order Boraginee.
We also passed over other sandy flats covered with
broad-leafed Melaleucas and Grevillias, and a few
Banksias. On these flats ant-hills occurred, and in
their vicinity there was seldom much grass. The
grasses generally growing there were annual kinds.
It was Mr. Kennedy’s opinion that the creek we
crossed this morning’ joined the river we left on the
16th, and formed the Mitchell, although the country
hereabouts did not resemble the banks of the
Mitchell, as described by Leichhardt; but the
appearance of the country varies so much every few
miles, particularly to the westward, that it is
impossible to support an opposite opinion on this
ground.

Sept. 25th.—As three of the horses could not be
found this morning, four men were left behind to
search for them while the rest of the party travelled
on. They had not come up with us at about four
o’clock, and being anxious to find water before dark,
we proceeded along a narrow open valley covered
with long grass and large pandanus trees, skirted
on each side by rather scrubby forest land. At
dark we reached a large water hole. One of the
men left behind shortly arrived, and stated that the
rest had halted for the night. Mr. Kennedy being
anxious to bring all the horses to water, and to have
the party together, sent me back to conduct them
to the camp, which I very soon did, even though it

VOL. I. )

194 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

was dark, the track being very plain. We collected
a great many nondas to-day and baked some of
them with our bread, which was the only way we
could eat them cooked; they were much better
fresh from the trees, but we found them rather
astringent. Spring, our best kangaroo dog, was
unable to come up to the camp this day, being
overpowered by the heat of the sun, a circumstance
we all regretted, as he was a most excellent watch
dog.

Sept. 26th.—We travelled a good stage this
morning before we found water,—in a sandy creek,
where the country seemed to fall slightly to the
north-east. We still hoped to find a river running
into Princess Charlotte’s Bay.

Sept. 27th.— We proceeded N.E. over alternating
sandy ridges and marshy flats; the latter, though
dry where we passed over them, presented the
appearance of being generally inundated. We
camped by the side of a rocky creek, containing
very little water.

Sept. 28th.—Just as we were about to start this
morning, two natives, carrying a bundle of reeds
and a basket, passed within a short distance of our
camp, and seemed to take no notice of us. Our
sheep were not to be found, having rambled to a
distance ; although without a sheepfold, this was
the first instance in which the sheep had strayed ;
they generally remained by the fire, towards which
they were driven at night, till morning.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 195

We had never seen a wild native dog during the
journey. Our dog that we had left behind came
into the camp to-night, very much exhausted,
having travelled about thirty miles; he must have
subsisted on nondas, as it was impossible he could
have caught anything, and we had seen him eat
them before. He died the following morning.

Sept. 380th. — After travelling a short distance we
crossed a small river running eastward: for some
distance down it, the water was brackish, and at
spring tide the salt water came up to our camp;
but we obtained good water from a small lagoon
near the camp. We proceeded over a large plain
well covered with good grass, the soil stiff clay.
We proceeded about five or six miles on this plain,
turning westward towards a lagoon surrounded by
Stravadiums and a few very large palms. We
hoped to find water in it, but it was dry, and
fearing we should not be able to reach water before
dark if we proceeded in this direction, we thought
it better to return to our camp.

Oct. 1st.--We had prayers this day as usual on
Sundays, at eleven o’clock. We saw native fires at
a distance to the north-east of our camp, but the
natives did not come near us. I went up what we
tancied was the river by which we had camped, but
found it only a creek; but it had plenty of water in
it at this season. There were several small lagoons
near it. There were large drooping tea-trees
(Melaleucas) growing on its banks, and large palm

02

196 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

trees, of the same kind as those I had seen in the
plain the day before, and which were by far the finest
palms I had ever seen; the trunks were not very
high, from fifteen to thirty feet in height, but very
large in bulk, varying from six to eight feet in
circumference; they had large fan-shaped leaves,
with slightly curved spines on the footstalk. It is
a dicecious palm, the female plants bearing an
immense quantity of round fruit, about the size of a
greengage plum, of a purple colour, and rather
disagreeable flavour; the pulp covering the seed was
very oily, and not a leaf to be seen on any of the
fruit-bearing plants; the whole top consists of
branches full of ripe and unripe seeds. Bushels of
seeds were lying beneath some of the trees, it seem-
ing that but few were eaten by birds or small
animals. One of our party suffered severely from
eating too freely of them, as they brought on
diarrhoea. I measured two or three of the leaves
of the male plants, and those not of the largest size,
and found them to measure six feet in the widest
part, and four feet and half in the narrowest. These
leaves were split by the wind into segments of
various widths. The grass growing to the west-
ward of our camp was not so high as that to the
eastward, and appeared to consist of a larger
proportion of annual grasses, the perennial grass
growing only in tufts; near the river it was covered
with an annual Jpomea, of very strong growth,—
the leaves and blossoms were withered, but I ob-

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 197

tained seeds. We shot three ducks to-day, and
Wall killed a wallaby of a light grey colour, long
soft fur, and rather bushy tail; he thought it new,
and preserved the skin. I also obtained specimens
of a beautiful plant, a shrub about two feet high,
with white sweet-scented blossoms, belonging to the
natural order Rubiacee, and several other interesting
plants. Lately, however, my specimens had been
very much spoiled,—being torn from the horse’s
back so frequently, that I grew disheartened to see
all the efforts I had made, made in vain, although I
still took every method to preserve them from
injury.

Oct. 2nd.—This morning we proceeded across
the plain, and when we had advanced about two
miles upon it, we discovered that the natives had set
the grass on fire behind us, and the wind blowing
from the eastward, and the grass growing thick and
high, it rapidly gained upon us; we made all
possible haste to some burned ground which we had
seen on Saturday, and reached it only a few minutes
before the fire. We were enveloped in smoke and
ashes, but fortunately no one was burned. The
natives did not come near us, although no doubt
they watched us, and saw us proceeding to the part
of the plain that was burned. The plain extended
a great distance to the westward, and in crossing’ it
one of our horses knocked up and could travel no
longer; Mr. Kennedy ordered him to be bled, and
we not liking to lose the blood, boiled it as a blood-

198 KENNEDY’s EXPEDITION.

pudding with a little flour, and in the situation we
were, we enjoyed it very much.

Oct. 8rd.—We killed the horse this morning as
he was not able to stand, and dried the meat to
carry with us; we made a small stage of saplings
on which to dry the meat, which was cut off close to
the bone as clean as possible, and then cut in thin
slices, and laid on the stage in the sun to dry, and
the sun being very hot, it dried well; the heart,
liver, and kidneys were parboiled, and cut up fine,
and mixed with the blood of the horse and about
three pounds of flour; they made four puddings,
with which, after they had boiled about four hours,
we satisfied our appetites better than we had been
able to do for some time: it was served up in the
same manner as our usual rations, in equal parts,
and each man had a right to reserve a portion of
his mess till the next day—but very little was saved.
Mr. Kennedy found that it was even necessary to
have the horse flesh watched whilst drying, finding
that two or three of the party had secreted small
quantities amongst their clothes; such precautions
were quite necessary,—as well in justice to the whole
of the party, as to keep up the strength of all, which
seemed to be very fast declining. At night we
made a fire to smoke the meat, and to destroy the
maggots, which were very numerous in it; we
packed the meat in empty flour bags.

Oct. 4th—We proceeded northward over small
sandy plains, covered with annual grass, which was

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 199

now very much withered, and through belts of dwarf
bushy Melaleucas and Banksias. We were not far
from Princess Charlotte’s Bay, Jane’s Table Land
being in sight. We came to the side of a salt
lagoon, very nearly dry; we found it covered with
salt, of which we took about 20 lbs., which was as
much as we could carry, but even this was a very
seasonable help ; we rubbed about two pounds of it
into our meat. We encamped by a small creek, but
the water was brackish, and not being able to find
any other we were obliged to make use of it. One
of our horses was slightly hurt by the stump of a
mangrove tree. All we got from the horse we last
killed was sixty-five pounds of meat.

Oct. 5th and 6th.—We travelled over sandy soil,
but with little grass, meeting frequently with salt
lagoons, surrounded by various salsolaceous plants.
Near the edge of a salt water creek we found a
native camp, composed of about seven or eight huts,
curiously and neatly built of a conical form; all
were nearly of the same size, about five and a half
feet in diameter at the base, and six and a half feet
high. They were made by placing saplings in the
ground in a slanting position, which were tied
together at the top and woven inside like wicker
work, with strips of small bamboo canes. The
whole was then covered with palm leaves, over
which was a coating of tea-tree bark, very neatly
fastened by strips of cane. They were substantially
built, and would no doubt keep out the wet eftec-

200 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

tually. They seemed to be occupied by the natives
only in the rainy season, as, from their appearance,
they had not been inhabited for some time. I
entered one of them through a small arched opening
of about twenty inches or two feet high, and found
three or four nets, made with thin strips of cane,
about five feet long, with an opening of about eight
inches in diameter at one end, getting gradually
smaller for about four feet, where there was a small
opening into a large round sort of basket. These
nets were laid by the natives in narrow channels to
catch fish, as well as in the tracks of small animals,
such as rats and bandicoots, for the purpose of
trapping them. There were also some pieces of
glass bottle in the hut, carefully wrapped in bark
and placed in a very neat basket, made in the shape
of a lady’s reticule. The glass is used by the
natives in marking themselves: all of them being
scarred on the arms and breast, while some were
marked on the cheeks and forehead.

In the camp we thus discovered were small stone
ovens, similar to those we had found in the camp at
Rockingham Bay, as well as one with a large flat
stone raised six or eight inches from the ground,
and a fire-place of loose stones beneath. Near to
one of the tents was a large stone hollowed out in
the middle, and two or three round pebbles for
pounding dried seeds, &c.

Oct. 7th and 8th.—Flat sandy ground, with oc-
casional patches of scrub, composed of bushy

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 201

Melaleucas, Hibiscus, Banksia, and several rambling
plants, with a few large palms scattered in places ;
there was not much grass, except at intervals.

Oct. 9th.—This morning we came to a river,
running into Princess Charlotte’s Bay, in lat. 14°
30 S., long. 143° 56’... It was deep, and about 100
yards wide, the water salt, and the tide was flowing
up fast, and the banks were high. A few scattered
mangroves, and a leguminous tree, with rough cor-
date leaves, and large one or two-seeded legumes,
were growing on the banks. We were obliged to
turn southerly for a short distance, and found what
we had fancied was a river to be only a small creek.
We crossed it about twelve or fourteen miles from
the sea, but the water was brackish. The trees on
the sandy ground were broad-leafed melaleucas,
Grevilleas, and nondas, and by the water-holes which
we occasionally saw, were stravadiums and drooping
melaleucas. I also saw a species of Stravadium
with racemes of white flowers, much longer than
the others, with leaves ten imches long by four
inches broad, and the trees thirty feet high. Keep-
ing at a distance from the sea-coast to avoid the
salt water creeks, and to obtain good grass for
our horses, we halted in the middle of the day, and
were visited by a great many natives, coming in all
directions, and making a great noise. They ap-
peared to have been collecting nondas, as a great
many of their women were carrying large basket-
fuls away. After the women were out of sight

202 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

they made signs to us to go away. We got our
horses together, and endeavoured to make them
friendly, but our entreaties were disregarded, and
the presents we offered them were treated with con-
tempt. When we found they would not allow us to
come near them, we packed our horses and prepared
to start. They followed us at some distance, con-
tinually throwing spears after us for some time;
one was thrown into the thigh of a horse, but
fortunately not being barbed it was taken out, and
the horse was not much injured. We then rode
after them in two or three directions and fired at
them, when they left us, and we saw no more of
them.

Oct. 11th.—-To-day, when halting in a place
where there was no water, but good grass, a tribe of
natives made their appearance, and appeared dis-
posed to be friendly. We carefully collected our
horses, and shortly after the natives drew near to
us. We made them presents of a few fish-hooks
and tin plates, and made signs to them that we
wanted water ; several of them ran off, and ina few
minutes returned with water in a vessel (if it may
be so called), composed of pieces of bark tied to-
gether at each end, and they continued going
backwards and forwards until they had brought
enough to fill our cans, besides what we drank.
They left us quite quietly.

Oct. 12th.—We proceeded along the creek by
which we had encamped the night before ; the water

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 2038

was brackish. We attempted to go through some
mangroves to the beach, but did not succeed.

Oct. 13th.—Jackey, Taylor, and myself took
three horses, and tried to get to the beach more to
the northward than yesterday. We passed through
a belt of mangroves, where the ground was pretty
firm, the tide coming up only occasionally ; we then
proceeded along a sandy ridge to the northward,
when we found it succeeded by a salt water lagoon,
surrounded by salsolaceous plants and mangroves,
which it was impossible to get through. We
returned to our camp, and here Mr. Kennedy aban-
doned the thought of going to the beach, as he felt
sure H.M.S. Bramble (which was to have met us at
the beginning of August) would have gone; our
journey having occupied so much longer time than
we could have possibly anticipated. This considera-
tion, combined with the great difhculty which seemed
likely to ensue in obtaining water and feed for our
horses, determined him to take a different direction.

Oct. 15th.—We had prayers as usual this day,
being Sunday, at 11 o’clock; to-day we finished
the consumption of all our sugar, except a very
small quantity, which was reserved for any particu-
lar case of sickness.

Oct. 16th.—-This morning a horse fell into a rocky
water-hole, and finding it impossible to get him out
alive, we killed him, and cured the flesh as before,
drying it in the sun on a stage; the blood, heart,
and liver furnished us with a good day’s food. Our

204 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

meat being well dried by five o’clock in the after-
noon, we sprinkled some salt upon it, and put it in
bags for the convenience of carrying. We left one
of our round tents, and such other things as we
could possibly spare behind us at the camp, as our
horses were now so weak that they could not carry
loads.

Oct. 17th and 18th.—Our travelling was very
uneven, our horses giving us continual trouble from
their frequent falls; we had a few narrow belts of
scrub to cut through, but they were not very thick.

Oct. 19th.—Several of our horses were now
quite unable to carry anything but the saddle; we
passed through open forest land, with a light soil,
sub-soil clay, with isolated blocks of granite rock
scattered about. We encamped by a rocky creek,
with water in holes only ; it ran westerly, and had
fresh green feed on each side, the grass having been
burned shortly before, and now growing up again.

Oct. 20th.—We passed over a piece of stiff
ground about two miles in extent, which appeared
to have been the scene of a devastating hurricane.
It was covered with fallen timber, which rendered
it very difficult to cross. The wind must have
swept from the south-west to the north-east, and
from the appearance of the saplings which were
growing from the stumps of some of the trees
which had been broken, this terrific storm appeared
to have taken place about two years ago. Nota
tree had been left standing in the part where we

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 205

crossed, nor could we tell how far the devastation
had extended to the south-west ; but the ground to
the north and east being swampy, and covered only
with small Melaleucas and Banksias, the wind had
not taken much effect. Many of the trees in the
middle of the fallen timber measured two feet in
diameter. Some were torn up by the roots, and the
trunks of others were snapped off at various heights
from the ground. The latitude of our camp here
was 13° 35’ 8.

Oct. 21st.—We killed another of our horses
to-day, as he was too weak to stand.

Oct. 22nd.—We got our meat well dried to-day,
and having smoked it a little, packed it as before.
Our stock of flour was now reduced to two hundred
pounds weight, and many of the men growing very
weak, we were obliged to increase our weekly ration
a little. Three of the party, Douglas, Taylor, and
Costigan, were suffering from diarrhoea, in con-
sequence of having eaten too freely of the pandanus
fruit. Their spirits began to fail them, and they
frequently complained despairingly to Mr. Kennedy
that they should never be able to reach Cape York.
Although our horses were so very weak, these men
were obliged to ride, being quite unable to walk far
at a time. The country before us was very moun-
tainous, but between the hills we found plenty of
grass and water: to the south the whole country
appeared to be on fire.

Oct. 23rd to 25th.— We travelled during these

206 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

days over a rocky mountainous country, interspersed
with deep gullies and creeks, fringed with belts of
scrub. In these scrubs I saw the white-apple and
the crimson scitamineous plant seen near Rocking-
ham Bay; scattered over the country were a few
cedar trees and Moreton Bay chesnuts, and some
very fine timber trees belonging to the natural order
Myrtacee, upwards of sixty feet high, and three to
four feet in diameter, with fine straight trunks.

Oct. 26th to 28th.—We travelled over stony
hills, the tops of which were occasionally composed
of white flint (?), with rusty veins running through it.
On the sides of the hills were broken rocks con-
taining mica, hornblende, and crystals of quartz.
The grass on these hills had all been newly burned.

Oct. 29th.—Sunday; prayers at eleven o’clock.
We this day shot three small wallabies, which were
a great treat to us.

Oct. 30th.—This day Luff was taken very lame,
being seized with severe pain and stiffness in the
right lee; he was quite unable to walk, so we
burned the other two round tents to enable him to

‘ride.

Nov. 1st and 2nd.—We again had to kill a
horse which was too weak, and disposed of it as we
had our former ones.

Nov. 38rd.—We were cutting through scrub all
day, intersected by deep gullies and rocky hills; we
crossed a small river, with very uneven rocky bottom,
about three feet deep; where we crossed it, it was

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 207

running southerly, and as there had been a heavy
storm a few days previously, the current was rapid ;
five of our horses fell in crossing it—the one carry-
ing my specimens in a very bad place; we were
obliged to cut the girths, and before I could secure
his load two bags of seeds were washed away; we
tied our horses to trees, and encamped in a thick
bamboo scrub by the side of the river.

Nov. 4th.—This morning Jackey went to examine
a scrub through which we wanted to pass, and
while out, shot a fine cassowary ; it was very dark
and heavy, not so long on the leg as the common
emu, and had a larger body, shorter neck, with a
large red, stiff, horny comb on its head; Mr. Wall
skinned it, but from the many difficulties with which
he had to contend, the skin was spoiled before it
could be properly preserved.

Nov. 5th.—We travelled a short distance to the
top of a hill, from which Jackey had seen grass
from a tree. We were obliged to kill another horse
to-day, and cured the flesh as usual.

Nov. 6th._-We were compelled to shoot two other
horses to-day, and as we had no other means of
taking the meat with us, we skinned one of them,
and made the skin into bags, in which we each
carried a few pounds of meat on our backs.

Nov. 7th and 8th.—We were travelling these
two days over very rough rocky ground, intersected
with gullies and belts of scrub.

Nov. 9th—We were obliged this morning to

208 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

start without our breakfast, having no bread baked,
and being unable to find water. We followed the
course of a creek at the foot of a low range of hills
running northward, the range being to the west-
ward. In the evening we found water in the creek.

Nov. 10th. We proceeded along the valley of
the creek, which was very uneven, and full of small
hillocks. Near the spot where we camped a great
number of Pandanus trees were growing. On each
side of the creek there were a few scattered trees
and a thick scrub to the westward. The soil was
stiff, with plenty of grass in the valley.

Mr. Kennedy, here, finding from the weak state
of some of the men, that it would be impossible for
us to reach Cape York before our provisions were
exhausted, resolved to form an advance party,
consisting of himself, Jackey, Costigan, Luff, and
Dunn.

We had but nine horses left, of which number it
was proposed that they should take seven, and
proceed to Cape York as quickly as possible, to
obtain provisions for the rest of the party from the
vessel waiting with supplies for our homeward
journey.

Nov. 11th.—We proceeded along the valley a
short distance, with a view of forming our depot as
near to Weymouth Bay as possible. We crossed
the creek where it turned eastward, on a kind of
bank, which intercepted its course, up to which,
from the east, the tide came sometimes, so that on

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 909

that side the creek the water was brackish, but very
good water was obtainable on the other side the
bank.

After we had camped, we killed our last sheep,
and Mr. Kennedy proceeded to the top of a high
hill, to view the country over which he would have
to pass. Shortly after his return to the camp
several natives made their appearance, to whom he
made a present of a tin plate and a few fish-hooks,
which made them quite friendly. While they were
looking at us, a great many brown hawks came
hovering over the camp. Wall and Jackey shot
fourteen or fifteen of them, in the presence of the
natives, who retired to the edge of the scrub, and
seemed very much surprised to see the hawks fall
as soon as they heard the report of the guns. They
went into the scrub at dark, but a good watch was
kept all night; though the natives did not again
make their appearance. One of our dogs killed a
young dog belonging to the natives during the
night, which I afterwards ascertained was eaten by
Dunn, Luff, Costigan, and Goddard.

Nov. 12th. Sunday: prayers at eleven; Jackey
and I went to the beach to see if we could find any
salt, as our stock was getting very low, but we
could not succeed in finding any.

Nov. 13th.—This morning everything was pre-
pared for the departure of Mr. Kennedy and his
party, and the last of our mutton was served out
equally to each of the party.

VOL. II. P

210 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

Mr. Kennedy gave me written instructions how
to act during our stay at Weymouth Bay, it being
his intention to send for us by water, if possible, as
he expected to meet H.M.S. Bramble at Port
Albany. He calculated that he should be from ten
to fifteen days before he reached that place, and
directed me to keep a sharp look out from the hill
for a vessel; and should I see one, to hoist a flag
on the hill. If the natives were friendly I was to
put a ball beneath the flag, and above it should they
be hostile. In the evening I was to fire three
rockets, at intervals of about twenty minutes.

The party left at the depot under my charge were
eight in number. The provisions consisted of two
horses and twenty-eight pounds of flour, the former
being very poor and weak.

Not knowing whether he could send for us by
water or not, Mr. Kennedy directed me to make
my provisions last at least six weeks, saying that it
was possible I might get relief fourteen days after
his departure, and telling me to keep a very sharp
look-out after that time.

I packed up all the dried meat we had left (75 lbs.)
and 18 lbs. of flour for Mr. Kennedy to take with
him, and about one pound of tea was divided
between the two parties. These, with their fire-
arms, and a few necessaries of a light description,
were all the party took with them. Mr. Kennedy
requested me to register the height of the thermo-
meter during my stay at the Bay. The whole of

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 211

the party left at the camp were very weak, Luff
being the weakest man that proceeded with the
party to Cape York.

Before leaving Mr. Kennedy told me that he
expected to meet with some difficulties for the first
few days, from the nature of the country he had
seen from the hill. I did not mention this to the
rest of the party, for fear it might still further tend
to depress their spirits, as three or four of them
even now seemed to despair of ever reaching our
destination. I did all in my power to keep them
in good heart, but they were saddened and depressed
by long suffering.

We removed our camp back across the creek to
the side of the high bare hill on which I was to hoist
a flag, and from which I could look out for a vessel.
It also afforded us a security trom the natives, as
we could see them at a greater distance. The lati-
tude of this camp was 12° 35’ 8.

And thus we settled down in the spot which was
to be the burial place of so many of our party—
which was fated to be the scene of so much intense
suffering, and of such heart-sickening hope deferred.
Wearied out by long endurance of trials that would
have tried the courage and shaken the fortitude of
the strongest, a sort of sluggish indifference pre-
vailed, that prevented the development of those
active energies which were so necessary to support
us in our critical position. The duties of our camp
were performed as if by habit, and knowing how

PQ

212 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

utterly useless complaint must be, the men seldom
repined aloud.

Nov. 14th.—We killed the smallest horse early
this morning, and had all the meat cut up and on
the stage todry by nineo’clock. I made the blood,
heart, liver, kidneys, and tripe last us three days,
as they would not keep longer, and we mixed our
allowance of flour with them. We had no salt to
season them with, as all our salt was required to
put in the blood to prevent its turning sour. The
heat during this day was very great, the thermo-
meter at noon in the shade standing at 110°.
Douglas was very weak. The natives came this
afternoon, but did not stay long.

Nov. 16th.—The natives this day brought us a few
small pieces of fish, but they were old and hardly
eatable. I would not allow them to come near the
camp, but made signs to them to sit down at a dis-
tance, and when they had done so, I went to them
and distributed a few fish-hooks. Douglas died this
morning, and we buried him at dusk when the
natives were gone, and I read the funeral service
over him. He was the first of our party we had
lost, and his death, the sad precursor of so many
more, cast an additional gloom over us.

Nov. 18th.—The natives came and brought some
of their gins (women) withthem. They would only
allow one of us ata time to go near them. The
women wore very neatly fringed girdles hanging
loose about their loins, and shaded themselves with

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 218

large fan-palm leaves. Their girdles were made of
the leaves of the Cordyline. Both men and wo-
men were very stout, strong, well-made people—
some of the men standing six feet high. They
brought us some fish, which they called “ mingii,”
but it was such as they would not even eat them-
selves ; also a kind of paste, made of different kinds
of leaves and roots, mixed with the inside of the
roasted mangrove seeds, all pounded up together,
then heated over a fire in a large shell. This paste
they call “dakiaa.”* Although we did not much
like the taste of the paste, and it was very full of
sand, we ate some of it as a vegetable.

Nov. 19th.—This morning about fifty or sixty
natives, all strongly armed with spears, made their
appearance, and by their gestures and manner it
was quite evident that they intended to attack us if
opportunity offered. As we always kept our fire-
arms in readiness, we stood out in a line, with our
guns in our hands. I made signs to them to keep
back, but they pretended not to understand us,
holding up pieces of fish, crying out mingit, mingit,
(fish, fish), to induce us to come for them, but their
designs upon us were too transparent for that. They
kept us standing a good while, for I was anxious
to refrain from firimg on them if possible, and at
length they left us without any actually hostile

* This is identical with the d¢yu of Cape York.—See Vol. II.
p- 26.

214 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

demonstration. Being Sunday, I read prayers
to-day.

Nov. 20th.—Taylor died this morning, and we
buried him in the evening, by the side of Douglas,
and I read the funeral service over him.

Nov. 21st— About sixty natives came to the
camp this morning, well armed with spears, and
pieces of fish, which they held up to us, to entice us
to come to them. We took no notice, however, of
their invitations, but preparing our fire-arms, we
turned out. They were now closing round us in all
directions, many of them with their spears in their
throwing-sticks, ready for use—pointing them to
their own necks and sides, and shewing us by their
postures how we should writhe with pain when they
struck us. Then they would change their tactics
and again endeavour to persuade us that they meant
us no harm, but they would not lay down their
spears. Some of them seemed inclined to go away,
but others appeared determined to attack us. After
keeping us standing about an hour, eleven spears
were thrown at us. Three of my party then fired,
slightly wounding one of them, when they all im-
mediately ran away as fast as they could. Some
of them, however, remained hovering in sight for
some time after. Three of the spears that were
thrown fell short of us, the rest passing very close,
but fortunately no one was hurt; the three spears
which passed us were barbed with bone, and were
very heavy.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 215

Nov. 26th.—Carpenter died this morning; the
poor fellow did not suffer acutely on the approach
of death, but the animal energies were destroyed,
and they withered away one after another, without
pain or struggle. At eleven o’clock, being Sunday,
I read prayers, and in the evening we buried our
late companion in the bed of the creek, and I read
the funeral service over him. The natives came
again this morning, leaving their spears at a
distance, and brought us a few small fish; but
remembering their former treachery, we took very
little notice of them, and shewed that they could
only expect kind treatment from us, so long as they
themselves continued peaceable. During the last
few days we shot a few pigeons and parrots, also
a small blue heron.

Nov. 2?th.—We killed another horse this morning,
and had the meat all cut up and on the stage by
nine o’clock, with all the appearance of a fine day
to dry it. But about eleven o’clock a heavy thunder
storm came on, and it rained all day. I kept a fire
burning near the stage all night.

Nov. 28th.—We were very uneasy at the con-
tinued wet weather, as it threatened to destroy the
scanty remains of our provision, the flesh already
beginning to smell very badly.

Nov. 29th.—It was raining heavily all day, and
our meat became almost putrid.

Nov. 80th.—This day a fresh breeze blew, and
there was no rain; I cut up all the meat that would

216 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

hold together into thin slices, but a great deal of it
was quite rotten. The blood puddings, tripe, feet,
and bones, lasted us till this day. I saved the hide
of this horse for ourselves, the other I had fed our
dogs on: Mr. Kennedy having requested me to
keep them alive if possible, so that we had to spare
a little from our scanty meals for them.

Dec. 1st.—The wind was blowing strong from
the south-east this morning. On going up the hill
in the afternoon I saw a schooner from the north-
ward beating to the southward. I supposed her to
be the Bramble, as it was about the time Mr.
Kennedy had given me expectation of being relieved
by water, and I afterwards found I was right in
this supposition.

I naturally concluded she had come for us; and
full of hope and joy I immediately hoisted a flag on
a staff we had previously erected on a part of the
hill where it could be seen from any part of the bay.
We placed a ball above the flag to put the crew on
their guard against the natives. We then collected
a quantity of wood, and at dusk lighted a fire, and
kept it burning till about half-past seven or eight
o’clock. I then fired off three rockets one after the
other, at intervals of about twenty minutes. I also
took a large pistol up the hill, and stood for some
time firing it as quickly as I could load it, thinking
they might perhaps see the flash of that, if they had
not seen the rockets.

Dec, 2nd.—Karly this morning I was up, strain-

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 217

ing my eyes to catch a view of the bay, and at
length saw the schooner standing in to the shore,
and during the forenoon a boat was lowered. I now
made quite certain they were coming for us, and
thinking they might come up the creek in the boat
for some distance, I hastened down the hill, and
began to pack up a few thing's, determined to keep
them waiting for our luggage no longer than I
could help. I looked anxiously for them all the
afternoon, wondering much at their delay in coming,
until at last I went up the hill, just in time to see
the schooner passing the bay. I cannot describe
the feeling of despair and desolation which I in
common with the rest of our party experienced as
we gazed on the vessel as she fast faded from our
view. On the very brink of starvation and death,
—death in the lone wilderness, peopled only with
the savage denizens of the forest, who even then
were thirsting for our blood—hope, sure and certain
hope, had for one brief moment gladdened our
hearts with the consoling assurance, that after our
many trials, and protracted sufferings, we were
again about to find comfort and safety. But the
bright expectancy faded ; and although we strove
to persuade ourselves that the vessel was not the
Bramble, our hearts sank within us in deep despon-
dency.

Dec. 4th.—We yesterday finished our scanty
remnant of flour; and our little store of meat,

218 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

which we had been able to dry, could have but very
little nourishment in it. Goddard and I went to
the beach and got a bag of shell-tish, but found it
very difficult to get back to the camp through the
mangroves, we were in so weak a state.

Dec. 7th.—This day I took Mitchell with me to
the beach, and procured another bag’ of shell-fish.
During the last few days we shot a very small
wallaby and three or four Torres’ Strait pigeons.
These afforded us some relief, as our horse-flesh
was so very bitter, that nothing but unendurable
hunger could have induced us to eat it. A number
of small brown beetles were generated from it, which
ate it, and we were also much annoyed by flies.
We all suffered more or less from bad eyes.

Dee. 9th.—The natives visited us this morning,
and brought with them a few pieces of turtle’s
entrails and a few nondas. I gave them an old
shirt and a knife, the latter of which was highly
prized by them. They call turtle “ mallii,” and the
sun “ youmboll.” Goddard had a fit of ague to-day,
followed by fever.

Dec. 10th.—We all of us had fits of ague this
morning, and none of us could get up till the after-
noon, when, being Sunday, I read prayers.

Dec. 11th.—The natives came this morning, and
brought us a little vegetable paste, and some pieces
of turtle’s entrails, with some shark’s liver. The latter
was fresh, but one could not eat it, as it all melted

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 219

into a yellowish oil, when boiled for a few minutes.
I gave them a few fish-hooks, but found it very
difficult to get them to leave the camp.

Dec. 13th.—This morning Mitchell was found
dead by the side of the creek, with his feet in the
water. He must have gone down at night to get
water, but too much exhausted to perform his task,
had sat down and died there. None of us being
strong enough to dig a grave for him, we sewed the
body in a blanket, with a few stones to sink it, and
then put it into the brackish water.

Dec. 15th.—The thermometer fell this morning
and was broken. It was raining heavily all day,
and two bags of my seeds, and several other little
things, were washed out of the tent by the water
which ran down the hill. We were all very ill and
weak.

Dec. 16th.—It was raining this morning, and we
remained in the tent. Hearing one of our dog's
barking, however, I went out and saw several na-
tives with pieces of fish and turtle, which I took
from them, when they left us. The natives also
brought us some roasted nymphea roots, which they
call “dillu.” During the last few days we shot
seven pigeons. Wall and Goddard used to go into
the scrub and sit beneath a tree, to which they used
to come for berries to feed their young, and watch-
ing their opportunity, shoot them.

Dec. 21st.—Our kangaroo dog being very weak,
and unable to catch anything, we killed, and lived

220 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

on him for two days. There was very little flesh
on his bones, but our dried meat was so bad, that
we very much enjoyed the remains of our old com-
panion, and drank the water in which we boiled
him.

Dec. 24th.—The natives took a tin case from
Wall whilst he was talking to them, he not being
able to resist them. My legs had swelled very
much, and I was able to walk but a very short dis-
tance.

Dec. 26th.—The natives brought us a few pieces
of fish and turtle, but both were almost rotten ; they
also gave us a blue-tongued lizard, which I opened
and took out eleven young ones, which we roasted
and ate. There was nothing but scales on the old
one, except in its tail.

We always equally divided whatever we got from
the natives, be it what it might; but they brought
us very little that was eatable. I could easily per-
ceive that their pretended good feeling towards us
was assumed for the sake of fulfilling their own
designs upon us. Although they tried to make us
believe they were doing all in their power to benefit
us, their object was to obtain an opportunity of
coming upon us by surprise and destroying us.
They had at many times seen the fatal effects of
our fire-arms, and I believe that it was only the
dread of these, that prevented them from falling
upon us at once, and murdering us. They were a
much finer race of men than the natives we had

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 221

seen at Rockingham Bay, most of the men being
from five feet ten to six feet high. The general
characteristics of the race were different from those
of the other aborigines I had ever seen, and I
imagined that they might be an admixture of the
Australian tribes and the Malays, or Murray Is-
landers. Some of them had large bushy whiskers,
with no hair on their chins or upper lips, having the
appearance of being regularly shaved. It would
be almost impossible for any class of men to excel
these fellows in the scheming and versatile cunning
with which they strove to disguise their meditated
treachery. In fine weather I always had our fire-
arms standing out for them to see, and once or
twice every night I fired off a pistol, to let them
know we were on the look-out by night as well as
by day.

Dec. 28th.—Niblett and Wall both died this
morning ; Niblett was quite dead when I got up,
and Wall, though alive, was unable to speak ; they
were neither of them up the day previous. I had
been talking with them both, endeavouring to
encourage them to hope on to the last, but sickness,
privation, and fatigue had overcome them, and they
abandoned themselves to a calm and listless despair.
We had got two pigeons the day before, which in
the evening were boiled and divided between us, as
well as the water they were boiled in. Niblett had
eaten his pigeon, and drank the water, but Wall had

299 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

only drank the water and eaten part of his half pigeon.
—About eleven o’clock, as many as fifty natives,
armed with spears, and some of them painted with
a yellowish earth, made their appearance in the
vicinity of our camp. There were natives of several
strange tribes amongst them. They were well
aware that neither Niblett nor Wall was able to
resist them, if they did not know they were dead.
They also knew that we were very weak, although
I always endeavoured as much as possible to keep
that fact from them. This morning when I made
signs to them to lay down their spears they paid
no attention, with the exception of two, who had
been in the habit of coming very frequently to the
camp. These two came running up quite close to
us, without their spears, and endeavoured to per-
suade one of us to go across a small dry creek, for a
fish which another of the rascals was holding up to
tempt us. They tried various methods to draw our
attention from the rest, who were trailing their spears
along the ground, with their feet, closing gradually
round us, and running from tree to tree, to hide
their spears behind them. Others lay on their
backs on the long grass, and were working their
way towards us, unnoticed as they supposed. God-
dard and myself stood with our guns in readiness
and our pistols by our sides for about two hours,
when I fell from excessive weakness. When I got
up we thought it best to send them away at once,

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 293

or stand our chance of being speared in the attempt,
both of us being unable to stand any longer. We
presented our guns at the two by our side, making
signs to them to send the others away, or we would
shoot them immediately. This they did, and they
ran off in all directions without a spear being thrown
or a shot fired. We had many times tried to catch
fish in the creek during our stay at Weymouth Bay,
with our fishing lines, but never could get as much
as a bite at the bait.

As the evening came on, there came with it the
painful task of removing the bodies of our unfor-
tunate companions who had died in the morning.
We had not strength to make the smallest hole in
the ground as a grave; but after great exertion we
succeeded in removing the bodies to a small patch
of phyllanthus scrub, about four feet high, and
eighty yards from the tent. We then laid them
side by side, and covered them with a few small
branches, and this was all the burial we were
enabled to give them.

Dee. 29th.—Goddard went into the scrub, and
shot three pigeons. We ate one of them at night,
and the others we reserved till next day. Our
bowels were greatly relaxed, which was partly
stayed by eating a few nondas, which we got
occasionally.

The six weeks having expired, which Mr. Ken-
nedy had led me to expect would be the longest
period we should have to wait, I now began to fear

204 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

the rainy season had set in, and filled the creeks to
the northward, so that his party had been unable to
cross them, or that some untoward accident had
happened, which prevented us being: relieved.

I did not quite despair, but I knew that we could
not live long. Our shot was almost consumed, not
having more than eight or ten charges left, and
although we had plenty of ball, we were too weak
to attempt to form any plan to make shot. Our
sole remaining companion, the sheep dog’, I intended
to kill in a day or two, but he would not last long,
as he was nothing but skin and bone.

Dec. 30th.—Early this morning we ate the two
pigeons left yesterday, and boiled each a quart of
tea, from the leaves we had left; but we had not
had any fresh tea to put into the pot for some time.
Goddard then went into the bush, to try to get
another pigeon or two, and if the natives made their
appearance, I was to fire a pistol to recall him to the
camp. After he had been gone, I saw natives
coming toward the camp, and I immediately fired
a pistol; but before Goddard could return they
came into the camp, and handed me a piece of paper,
very much dirtied and torn. I was sure, from the
first, by their manner, that there was a vessel in
the Bay. The paper was a note to me from Captain
Dobson, of the schooner Ariel, but it was so dirtied
and torn that I could only read part of it.

For a minute or two I was almost senseless with
the joy which the hope of our deliverance inspired.

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 295

I made the natives a few presents, and gave them a
note to Captain Dobson, which I made them easily
understand I wanted them to take to that gentleman.
I was in hopes they would then have gone, but I
soon found they had other intentions. <A great
many natives were coming from all quarters well
armed with spears. I had given a shirt to the one
who had brought the note, and put it on him ; but
T saw him throw down the note and pull off the
shirt, and picking up his spear he joined the rest,
who were preparing to attack us. We were ex-
pecting every moment to be attacked and murdered
by these savages, our newly awakened hope already
beginning to fail, when we saw Captain Dobson and
Dr. Vallack, accompanied by Jackey and a man
named Barrett, (who had been wounded a few days
before in the arm by a barbed spear,) approaching
towards us, across the creek. I and my companion,
who was preserved with me, must ever be grateful
for the prompt courage with which these persons,
at the risk of their own lives, came to our assistance,
through the scrub and mangroves, a distance of
about three miles, surrounded as they were all the
way by a large number of armed natives.

I was reduced almost to a skeleton. The elbow
bone of my right arm was through the skin, as also
the bone of my right hip. My legs also were
swollen to an enormous size. Goddard walked to
the boat, but I could not do so without the assistance
of Captain Dobson and Dr. Vallack, and I had to

VOL. II. Q

226 KENNEDY'S EXPEDITION.

be carried altogether a part of the distance. The
others, Jackey and Barrett, kept a look out for the
blacks. We were unable to bring many things from
the camp. The principal were, the fire-arms and
one parcel of my seeds, which I managed to keep
dry, contaming eighty-seven species. All my spe-
cimens were left behind, which I regretted very
much: for though much injured, the collection con-
tained specimens of very beautiful trees, shrubs, and
orchidee. I could also only secure an abstract of
my journal, except that portion of it from 18th
November to 30th December, which I have in full.
My original journal, with a botanical work which
had been kindly lent me by a friend in Sydney for
the expedition, was left behind. We got safely on
board the Ariel; and after a very long passage,
arrived in Sydney.

I am confident that no man could have done more
for the safety of the party than was done by Mr.
Kennedy, nor could any man have exerted himself
more than he, in the most distressing circumstances
of our perilous journey. He walked by far the
greater part of the distance, giving his own horses
for the use of the weak men, and the general service
of the expedition. I never rode but two hours all
through the journey, and that was on two successive
days when we were in the vicinity of Cape Sidmouth,
and I was suffering from bad feet.

The unfortunate death of our brave and generous
leader, deeply and extensively as I know it to have

NARRATIVE OF MR. CARRON. 227

been lamented, can have no more sincere mourner
than myself.

The tale of his sufferings and those of his party
has already been read and sympathised over by
hundreds, and it would ill become me to add any-
thing to the artless narrative of the faithful and true-
hearted Jackey, who having tended his last moments,
and closed his eyes, was the first, perhaps the most
disinterested, bewailer of his unhappy fate.

228

STATEMENT OF JACKEY JACKEY,

MADE BY HIM ON BOARD THE ARIEL, AND WRIT-
TEN DOWN BY DR. VALLACK.

I srarrep with Mr. Kennedy from Weymouth
Bay for Cape York, on the 13th November, 1848,
accompanied by Costigan, Dunn, and Laff, leaving
eight men at the camp, at Weymouth Bay. We
went on till we came to a river which empties itself
into Weymouth Bay. A little further north we
crossed the river; next morning a lot of natives
camped on the other side of the river. Mr.
Kennedy and the rest of us went on a very high
hill and came to a flat on the other side and camped
there; I went on a good way next day; a horse
fell down a creek; the flour we took with us lasted
three days; we had much trouble in getting the
horse out of the creek ; we went on, and came out,
and camped on the ridges; we had no water. Next
morning went on and Luff was taken ill with a very
bad knee; we left him behind, and Dunn went back
again and brought him on; Luff was riding a horse
named Fiddler; then we went on and camped at
a little creek; the flour being out this day we
commenced eating horse-flesh, which Carron gave
us when we left Weymouth Bay; as we went on
we came on a small river, and saw no blacks there ;

STATEMENT OF JACKEY JACKEY. 229

as we proceeded we gathered nondas, and lived
upon them and the meat; we stopped at a little
creek and it came on raining, and Costigan shot
himself; in putting his saddle under the tarpaulin,
a string caught the trigger and the ball went in
under the right arm and came out at his back under
the shoulder; we went on this morning all of us,
and stopped at another creek in the evening’, and
the next morning we killed a horse named Browney,
smoked him that night and went on next day,
taking as much of the horse as we could with us,
and went on about a mile and then turned back
again to where we killed the horse, because Costigan
was very bad and in much pain; we went back
again because there was no water; then Mr.
Kennedy and I had dinner there, and went on in
the afternoon leaving Dunn, Costigan, and Luff at
the creek. This was at Pudding-pan Hill, near
Shelburne Bay. Mr. Kennedy called it Pudding-
pan Hill. We left some horse meat with the three
men at Pudding-pan Hill, and carried some with us
on a pack horse. Mr. Kennedy wanted to make
ereat haste when he left this place, in order to get
the doctor to go down to the men that were ill.
This was about three weeks after leaving Weymouth
Bay. One horse was left with the three men at
Pudding-pan Hill, and we (Kennedy and myself’)
took with us three horses. The three men were to
remain there until Mr. Kennedy and myself had
gone to and returned from Cape York for them.

230 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

Mr. Kennedy told Luff and Dunn when he left them
if Costigan died they were to come along the beach
till they saw the ship, and then to fire a gun; he
told them he would not be long away, so it was not
likely they would move from there for some time.
They stopped to take care of the man that was shot,
we (me and Mr. Kennedy) killed a horse for them
before we came away; having left these three men,
we camped that night where there was no water ;
next morning Mr. Kennedy and me went on with
the four horses, two pack horses, and two saddle
horses ; one horse got bogged in a swamp. We
tried to get him out all day, but could not, we left
him there, and camped at another creek. The next
day Mr. Kennedy and I went on again, and passed
up a ridge very scrubby, and had to turn back
again, and went along gulleys to get clear of the
ereek and scrub. Now it rained, and we camped ,
there were plenty of blacks here, but we did not see
them, but plenty of fresh tracks, and camps, and
smoke. Next morning we went on and camped at
another creek, and on the following morning we
continued going on, and camped in the evening
close to a scrub; it rained in the night. Next day
we went on in the scrub, but could not get through.
I cut and cleared away, and it was near sundown
before we got through the scrub—there we camped.
It was heavy rain next morning, and we went on in
the rain, then I changed horses and rode a black
colt, to spell the other, and rode him all day, and in

STATEMENT OF JACKEY JACKEY. 231

the afternoon we got on clear ground, and the horse
fell down, me and all; the horse lay upon my right
hip. Here Mr. Kennedy got off his horse and
moved my horse from my thigh; we stopped there
that night, and could not get the horse up; we
looked to him in the morning and he was dead; we
left him there; we had some horse meat left to eat,
and went on that day and crossed a little river and
camped. The next day we went a good way; Mr.
Kennedy told me to go up a tree to see a sandy
hill somewhere ; I went up a tree, and saw a sandy
hill a little way down from Port Albany. That
day we camped near a swamp; it was a very rainy
day. The next morning we went on, and Mr.
Kennedy told me we should get round to Port
Albany in a day; we travelled on all day till
twelve o’clock (noon), and then we saw Port
Albany; then he said, “There is Port Albany,
Jackey—a ship is there—you see that island there,”
pointing to Albany Island; this was when we were
at the mouth of Escape River; we stopped there a
little while; all the meat was gone; I tried to get
some fish but could not; we went on in the after-
noon half a mile along the river side, and met a
good lot of blacks, and we camped; the blacks all
cried out “ powad powad,” and rubbed their bellies ;
and we thought they were friendly, and Mr.
Kennedy gave them fish-hooks all round; every
one asked me if I had any thing to give away, and
I said, no; and Mr. Kennedy said, give them your

232 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

knife, Jackey ; this fellow on board was the man I
gave the knife to; I am sure of it; I know him
well; the black that was shot in the canoe was the
most active in urging all the others on to spear Mr.
Kennedy ; I gave the man on board my knife; we
went on this day, and I looked behind, and they
were getting up their spears, and ran all round the
camp which we had left; I told Mr. Kennedy that
very likely those black fellows would follow us, and
he said, “No, Jackey, those blacks are very
friendly ;” I said to him “I know these black
fellows well, they too much speak;”’ we went on
some two or three miles and camped; I and Mr.
Kennedy watched them that night, taking it in
turns every hour all night; by-and-by I saw the
black fellows; it was a moonlight night; and I
walked up to Mr. Kennedy, and said to him, there
is plenty of black fellows now; this was in the
middle of the night; Mr. Kennedy told me to get
my gun ready; the blacks did not know where we
slept, as we did not make a fire; we both sat up
all night; after this, daylight came, and I fetched
the horses and saddled them; then we went on a
good way up the river, and then we sat down a
little while, and we saw three black fellows coming
along our track, and they saw us, and one fellow
ran back as hard as he could run, and fetched up
plenty more, like a flock of sheep almost; I told
Mr. Kennedy to put the saddles on the two horses
and go on, and the blacks came up, and they

STATEMENT OF JACKEY JACKEY. 238

followed us all the day; all along it was raining,
and I now told him to leave the horses and come
on without them, that the horses made too much
track. Mr. Kennedy was too weak, and would not
leave the horses. We went on this day till towards
evening, raining hard, and the blacks followed us
all the day, some behind, some planted before ; in
fact, blacks all around following us. Now we
went on into a little bit of a scrub, and I told Mr.
Kennedy to look behind always; sometimes he
would do so, and sometimes he would not look
behind to look out for the blacks. Then a good
many black fellows came behind in the scrub, and
threw plenty of spears, and hit Mr. Kennedy in the
back first. Mr. Kennedy said to me, “Oh! Jackey,
Jackey! shoot ’em, shoot ’em.” Then I pulled out
my gunand fired, and hit one fellow all over the face
with buck shot ; he tumbled down, and got up again
and again and wheeled right round, and two black-
fellows picked him up and carried him away. They
went away then a little way, and came back again,
throwing spears all around, more than they did
before ; very large spears. I pulled out the spear
at once from Mr. Kennedy’s back, and cut out the
jag with Mr. Kennedy’s knife ; then Mr. Kennedy
got his gun and snapped, but the gun would not go
off. The blacks sneaked all along by the trees, and
speared Mr. Kennedy again in the right leg, above
the knee a little, and I got speared over the eye,
and the blacks were now throwing their spears all

234 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

ways, never giving over, and shortly again speared
Mr. Kennedy in the right side; there were large
jags to the spears, and I cut them out and put them
into my pocket. At the same time we got speared,
the horses got speared too, and jumped and bucked
all about, and got into the swamp. I now told Mr.
Kennedy to sit down, while I looked after the
saddle-bags, which I did; and when I came back
again, I saw blacks along with Mr. Kennedy; I
then asked him if he saw the blacks with him, he
was stupid with the spear wounds, and said “ No ;”
then I asked where was his watch? I saw the
blacks taking away watch and hat as I was return-
ing to Mr. Kennedy ; then I carried Mr. Kennedy
into the scrub: he said, “ Don’t carry me a good
way ;” then Mr. Kennedy looked this way, very bad
(Jackey rolling his eyes). I said to him, “ Don’t
look far away,” as I thought he would be frightened;
I asked him often “ Are you well now?” and he
said, “I don’t care for the spear wound in my leg,
Jackey, but for the other two spear wounds in my
side and back,” and said, “I am bad inside, Jackey.”
I told him blackfellow always die when he got spear
in there (the back); he said, “I am out of wind,
Jackey ;” I asked him, “ Mr. Kennedy, are you
going to leave me?” and he said, “ Yes, my boy, I
am going to leave you ;” he said, “ I am very bad,
Jackey ; you take the books, Jackey, to the captain,
but not the big ones, the Governor will give anything
for them ;” I then tied up the papers: he then said,

STATEMENT OF JACKEY JACKEY. 235

“ Jackey, give me paper and I will write ;” I gave
him paper and pencil, and he tried to write,
and he then fell back and died, and I caught
him as he fell back and held him, and I then.
turned round myself and cried: I was crying a
good while until I got well; that was about an
hour, and then I buried him; I digged up the.
ground with a tomahawk, and covered him over
with logs, then grass, and my shirt and trowsers ;
that night I left him near dark ; I would go through
the scrub, and the blacks threw spears at me, a good
many, and I went back again into the scrub; then
I went down the creek which runs into Escape
River, and I walked along the water in the creek
very easy, with my head only above water, to avoid
the blacks, and get out of their way ; in this way I
went half a mile; then I got out of the creek, and
got clear of them, and walked on all night nearly,
and slept in the bush without a fire ; I went on next
morning, and felt very bad, and I spelled for two
days; I lived upon nothing but salt water; next
day I went on and camped one mile away from
where I left, and ate one of the pandanus fruits; next
morning I went on two miles, and sat down there,
and I wanted to spell a little there, and go on; but
when I tried to get up, I could not, but fell down
again very tired and cramped, and I spelled here
two days; then I went on again one mile, and got
nothing to eat but one nonda; and I went on that
day and camped, and on again next morning, about
half a mile, and sat down where there was good

236 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

water, and remained all day. On the following
morning, I went a good way, went round a great
swamp and mangroves, and got a good way by
sundown; the next morning I went and saw a very
large track of blackfellows; I went clear of the
track and of swamp or sandy ground; then I came
to a very large river, and a large lagoon ; plenty of
alligators in the lagoon, about ten miles from Port
Albany. I now got into the ridges by sundown,
and went up a tree and saw Albany Island; then
next morning at four o’clock, I went on as hard as
I could go all the way down, over fine clear ground,
fine iron bark timber, and plenty of good grass ; I
went on round the point (this was towards Cape
York, north of Albany Island) and went on and
followed a creek down, and went on top of the hill,
and saw Cape York; I knew it was Cape York,
because the sand did not go on further; I sat down
then a good while; I said to myself this is Port
Albany, I believe inside somewhere ; Mr. Kennedy
also told me that the ship was inside, close up to
the main land; I went on a little way, and saw the
ship and boat; I met close up here two black gins
and a good many piccanninies; one said to me
“powad, powad ;” then I asked her for eggs, she
gave me turtle’s eggs, and I gave her a burning
glass; she pointed to the ship which I had seen
before; I was very frightened of seeing the black
men all along here, and when I was on the rock
cooeying, and murry murry glad when the boat
came for me.

237

Dr. VALLACK’S STATEMENT.

A FULL account of proceedings taken by the Ariel,
from the time of Jackey’s arrival at Cape York,
on the 28rd December, 1848, up to the time
of her departure from Weymouth Bay, on the
31st December, 1848.

Dec. 28rd, 1848.—About eight o’clock, A.M.,
Captain Dobson called down to me, saying that he
thought Mr. Kennedy was arrived, as there was a
black on shore with a shirt on and trousers. On
going upon deck, the Captain had left in the dingey
for the main land, where the black was standing ; I
observed with the glass and the naked eye, the
black first standing, then walking very lame, then
sitting down on a rock on the main land. The
dingey made there, and took him on board. It
turned out to be Jackey, of Mr. Kennedy’s party,
who looked very haggard and told a woeful tale.
After being on board I wished to take down depo-
sitions, fearing anything might happen to him from
over-excitement. Depositions were taken, before
which he became faint, and a glass of wine revived
him, which he told us afterwards, made him
“budgeree” (that is, well again). I consulted with
the Captain as to what should be done, and it was

238 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

immediately determined upon to leave Port Albany
with all possible speed, to save the surviving parties
at Pudding-pan Hill and Weymouth Bay,—three
men at the former place, and the rest at the latter.
It being necessary to take the sheep with us, they
were all but three shipped in the evening, and
prompt orders given for the vessel to be got ready
for a start in the morning the first thing. In the
meantime I went on shore with the Captain to get
the bullock in to kill, Barrett, as well, on horseback,
but we found it was impossible to get him in—he
was so wild: he was therefore shot at the far and
south end of the island, with the intention of
bringing as much as possible of the carcass away.
It getting late in the evening, however, none was
taken away, nor is there time now to do 80, and to
do also an act of duty and humanity to the yet
living human beings.

Dec. 24th.— Before ten a.M., a dead calm; at
turn of tide or rather before, weighed anchor, but
the tide took us towards Cape York a mile; the
tide now turned, and a gentle breeze took us through
the strait. The breeze continued, and at sundown
we anchored five miles south of Point Shadwell,
Mount Adolphus bearing N.N.W., seven leagues ;
employed during the day conversing with Jackey,
taking down in pencil whai he had to say, changing
the subject now and then by speaking of his com-
rades at Jerry’s Plains. I did so as he told me
what kept him awake all last night was thinking

STATEMENT OF DR. VALLACK. 2939

about Mr. Kennedy. Saw three native fires on
our voyage here, one on this south end of Albany
Island, one between it and here, and one on shore
abreast of us.

Dee. 25th.—At daylight in the morning a dead
calm, and the hottest day we have had, the sun was
so glaring that the altitude could not be taken. At
about a quarter before ten A.M. a light breeze came
on and we left our anchorage, the breeze increased
a little, before eleven ; saw what appeared to be an
island at first; on nearing, found it to be a canoe,
about fifteen feet long, with seven or eight natives
in it, shearing about, sometimes in one direction,
sometimes in another. After a little we heard them
calling out, “ paoud,” “ whappee,” “ chauca,” some
of them standing up. I named to the Captain that
I thought they must be from Cape York, from their
words, and that it would be at least desirable to
lean information from them, if possible, concerning
Mr. Kennedy. The Captain said, “We will not
call out ‘paoud,’” (which means peace) but occa-
sionally the words “chauca,” (tobacco) “ biskey,”
(biscuit) were called out from the ship. They from
this drew close to the vessel, very wary, however,
in doing so. Jackey was placed in the fore-top,
and word came that Jackey knew all these fellows,
that they were the party who speared Mr. Kennedy.
One black was allowed to come on board, and whilst
he was partly in the ship, word came to me by
Parker (a seaman), that Jackey wanted to speak to

240 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

me. Qn going to Jackey, he said, “That fellow,”
pointing to the one named, “is the fellow that
speared Mr. Kennedy; I gave him a Ikmife, keep
him, bale (don’t) let him go. All those fellows
threw spears at Mr. Kennedy.” This native was im-
mediately secured. He struggled hard, and it was
as much as three men could do to secure him. The
other blacks in the canoe now jumped overboard,
and observing now that the native secured had a
part of a bridle round his arm, and a piece of
sinew, or tendon of a horse, and Jackey being so
positive as to identity, it was determined to
examine the canoe, and an order was given to fire
over their heads, whilst they (the blacks) were
endeavouring to recover their canoe. The ship’s
long-boat was sent after the canoe, but in the
meantime the blacks had recovered it, and a hard
chase took place, the blacks paddling away towards
the shore. The boat overhauled them, when a shot
was fired from the boat, and as the boat closed
upon them I saw the blacks jump overboard again,
and afterwards the ship’s boat bring back the canoe.
During this time several shots were fired over them,
and near them, from the ship. The boat returned
in about twenty minutes from the time of leaving,
with the canoe. Barrett said to me when alongside
that he was speared, and that he had shot the black
who had speared him, and who was now in the
canoe nearly dead. It appears that one black had
stuck to his canoe, and on the ship’s boat nearing it,

STATEMENT OF DR. VALLACK. 241

had thrown a spear into Barrett’s arm, and was on
the eve of throwing another at him, when Barrett
shot him. I went into the canoe, and examined
the black, and found the ball had gone through his
body, entering on the one side and coming out on
the opposite. The ball must have gone through
the stomach, from its direction. He was now
dying—nearly dead. The canoe was chopped up,
and, with the black, disappeared a short time
afterwards. I dressed Barrett’s wounds,—three of
them, of a triangular shape, in the lower and fleshy
part of the fore-arm. From the canoe were brought
the leg part of a pair of trowsers, three spears, a
piece of iron of a saddle, hooks and lines, &c.; and
a piece of moleskin was taken off the native’s leg,
which Jackey says was part of his trowsers, which
he tied round Mr. Kennedy’s head when he buried
him, Jackey being sure that they had dug up Mr.
Kennedy. I observed at the time that the native
was nearly on board, the moment the blacks saw
Jackey, they looked at each other as if every thing
was not right. Previously to their jumping over-
board, when Jackey shewed the native the spear
wound over his eye, he would quickly turn away
and not look him in the face. Whilst the native
was being secured, after being removed to the fore
part of the vessel, a mutton bone with meat was
offered him which he grappled at and ate vora-
ciously, saying, “paoud, paoud.” The wind in-
creased and was fair, and Jackey pointed out a hill
VOL. II. R

242 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

ahead of us which he said was like Pudding-pan
Hill, near which the three men were left. This
hill was Pudding-pan Hill, according to the chart.
As we neared Pudding-pan Hill, Jackey said, this
is not the place, that he had been mistaken, and, on
continually looking at it, he became the more
confirmed and positive, and said it was no use
whatever to land there, but that we must go further
on; we passed the hill; in the meantime the
Captain and I consulted as to what should be done,
knowing this was the only Pudding-pan Hill on
the chart ; but Jackey, who had been placed in the
fore-top, became more and more positive, saying at
length, “ Do you think I am stupid ?— Mr. Kennedy
sent me from the camp to look out the coast, so that
I might know it again when I came back in the
ship, and I will tell you when we come to it, the
ship must go on that way further,” pointing to the
south. Proceeding on, towards evening, off Han-
nibal Bay we saw numerous native fires, and in one
spot I observed about forty natives. Before sun-
down a canoe was making off to us, but after
sun-set we gradually lost sight of it, and some time
after this we anchored.

Dec. 26th.— At twenty minutes to six A.M., got
under weigh with a light breeze, in the centre of
Hannibal Bay, Risk Point ahead. In about ten
minutes we struck on a coral reef, and soon got off
again; we anchored this day in Shelburne Bay,
opposite where Jackey wished us to proceed to

STATEMENT OF DR. VALLACK. 243

recover the three men; he was sure this was the
place, seeing the mountain which Mr. Kennedy
called Pudding-pan Hill, and other mountains there,
which were wanting at the Pudding-pan Hill of the
chart; he was perfectly confident as to this being
the right place, and it may be here stated that this
hill is the very fac-simile of the Pudding-pan Hill
of the chart. In sailing in the bay we found the
water getting very shallow, from three to four, and
lastly, when we anchored, two and a-half fathoms,
and this unfortunately, was a long way off from the
land, say three or four miles; after consultation
with the Captain and Jackey, our main guide, we
determined on going on shore at the place pointed
out by Jackey before daylight on the following
morning ; during’ this afternoon several fires, about
five, were in sight along the coast in the bay, and
not many natives seen; I saw five; after a time it
had been determined who should be the party to go
to recover the three men. The Captain, Jackey,
Barrett, Thomas (the sailor), and myself, formed the
party. The evening was employed in getting our
guns in good order for the morrow. The Captain
thought he observed on shore natives with wearmg
apparel on.

Dec. 27th.—At three o’clock a.M., the Captain
called me, and such had been the preparation last
night that in a quarter of an hour we were in the
long boat, steering for the shore, and just as daylight
was peeping we were near the shore in shallow

R2

244 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

water, and a fire sprung up nearly in front of us a
little way in from the beach. The boat struck on
the ground, and we waded through the water for
about a hundred yards or more knee deep. Jackey
took the lead, the Captain and I following, Barrett
and Tom behind, and mounted the low scrubby cliff
about two hundred yards from where we saw the
fire. On we trudged through dense scrub inland
for about an hour, when Jackey said we must go
further up that way, pomting more in the south
part of the bay; that is where I want to go, said
he, and that we had better cross there in the boat
and recommence the trip. On reaching the coast
we hailed the boat, which was anchored off a
little, and waded out to it. Having seen a great
smoke last evening and apparently one this morn-
ing, some distance beyond where Jackey wished us
to land, he was asked if we should go first to this
native fire and camp, and see if they have anything
there belonging to the three men, and Jackey said,
yes. We proceeded there, a distance of about four
miles, to the southernmost part of the bay, and
landed, but could discover only the remains of a
bush fire and no camp; we now left this part and
proceeded to exactly where Jackey pointed out on
the beach, more in the central part of the bay, some
three miles across, and landed, telling the men in
the boat to anchor a little higher up to the north,
where Jackey said we should come out at by-and-
bye. We left word with the men in the boat that

STATEMENT OF DR. VALLACK. 245

we might be away for three hours or more, and that
we should fire a gun on our return, which was to
be answered by them.

Jackey was now head and leading man in every
sense of the word, and away we went in a westerly
direction, for about, say, five or six miles; Jackey
telling us to look out behind and all about for the
blacks. After proceeding some four miles of the
distance, we came to a creek where we stopped for
a few minutes; Jackey was evidently tired, not
recovered, and could not walk fast, and although we
went off at first at a good pace, Jackey was getting
lame, and had been obliged to sit down three times
on the journey. About two miles beyond this creek
Jackey got up into a tree, and returned, saying, he
could see the mountain near which the camp was,
but that it was a long way off, that we could not
get there to-night, but that we must camp in the
bush, and get there to-morrow. It here became
necessary to pause. The ship was left with two
hands only in her, anchored in shallow water, and the
Captain said promptly that he could not proceed
farther without great risk of losing the ship, either
from its coming on to blow, or that natives may
attack her in their canoes; (here I may say what
has been omitted, viz., that in the early part of the
morning we saw and examined a canoe close to
where we first landed, and found part of a cloak in
it, which Jackey immediately pronounced as belong-
ing to the white men at the camp) and it was

246 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

determined, well considering all circumstances, to
return to the ship, which we did, coming out on the
beach under mangroves, at the very spot we told
Jackey to come out at on our leaving. We arrived
at the ship at twelve minutes before four P.M.
During our absence the men in the boat had seen
on the beach from fifty to one hundred natives.
We saw none. The day has been very hot, and we
are in a fix, surrounded by reefs, and some little
anxiety is existing as to how we shall get out again.
We have determined to proceed to Weymouth Bay,
and in so doing I have taken everything into
consideration. We have eight men to attend to at
Weymouth Bay. In all probability the three men
here are dead, for when Jackey left them, Costican
was nearly dead, and Luff was very ill. The cloak
taken from the canoe shews that the blacks have
found their camp, and had we gone on there, which
would have taken a day or two at least more, we
should only have found, I verily believe, as Jackey
says, “bones belonging to white fellows.” After
getting on board, Jackey went to sleep, thoroughly
done up. He fell asleep also in coming off in the
boat.

Dec. 28th.—This has been a day of anxiety.
We left a little after daylight, not without feelings of
disappointment and dissatisfaction at not haying been
successful in rescuing the men, who it was possible
might be yet alive. We were surrounded by reefs,
a light breeze, and fair depth of water—called out

STATEMENT OF DR. VALLACK. 247

by the leadsman, 2, 24, 2,3 fathoms, until after
some time we got into deeper water, and passed out
of the Bay in safety. Not a fire had been seen on
the shore all night, nor was there a native to be
seen this morning from the vessel. We passed
numerous islands, until the Piper Islands came in
sight. We calculated upon making them for our
anchorage, but a squall came on, and the wind
shifted, and we were compelled to anchor at. half-
past seven P.M., in fifteen fathoms water, near a reef.
Some native fires were seen on the coast to-day.
I find the native on board understands and speaks
the same language as the Port Albany blacks, and
repeats all their names to me. He eats and drinks
heartily, and lends apparently a most willing hand
towards securing himself with the leather straps.
Dec. 29.— Left our anchorage at daylight in the
morning; passed between the Piper Islands and
Bald Head. When off Fair Cape saw a smoke on
the shore, and three natives, who immediately
disappeared in the scrub and were seen no more.
On rounding the Cape it became a dead calm, and
it was intensely hot ; we saw a smoke and a large
fire ahead of us. Jackey recognised the land, and
said the smoke was at the mouth of a river which
Mr. K. and he had crossed after leaving the camp.
The land where the camp and eight men were Jackey
pointed out ahead of us, opposite to Weymouth
Bay ; a heavy squall aud thunder storm with rain
came on very suddenly, and beyond the mouth of

248 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

the river, with camping hill ahead of us, we came
to an anchor, between two and three o’clock P. M.;
could not see any flag-staff on the hill pointed out
by Jackey, and which hill is very conspicuous and
bald, nor could we see any symptom of living
beings along the coast in the bay. It was too great
a distance to land to-night, aud the Captain said if
it came on to blow the boat could not be got back
again. Employed the other part of the day in
looking through the glass and with the naked eye
to see the flag-staff and flag, or any other sign,
(Jackey having informed us they would have a flag
on the top of the hill,) but none was to be seen, not
a native, and I have reason to believe every one of
the eight have been sacrificed; it looks suspicious
not seeing a native, for Jackey says they used to
bring fish to the camp, and there were plenty of
them. The Captain is to take the ship in as near as
possible to the hill, and it is determined to go on
shore with the same party who assisted us at
Shelburne Bay, and go up to the camp to-morrow
well armed. All this evening—a solemn, silent,
inexpressible gloom; no rockets, no gun, no fire;
to-morrow will tell a tale.

Dee. 80th.—At daylight this morning the ship
was got under weigh, and sailed nearer in towards
the hill which Jackey had pointed out as being the
hill where “camp sit down,” and anchored in about
two fathoms of water about half a mile off the land.
Five canoes were now seen creeping off towards us

STATEMENT OF DR. VALLACK. 249

from under the mangroves, with from five to ten
natives in each, (there was yet no flag or any token
of white people on the hill); the canoes gradually
neared in a string, and one came cautiously
alongside, making signs and saying “ ferraman,”
“ferraman,” “white ian,” “white man,” and
pointing towards Jackey’s mountain. We were at
first doubtful whether they were disposed to be
friendly or not, and afterwards seeing some children
with them and one or two females, we concluded
they were disposed to be friendly, and that they knew
the parties at the camp. A few lines were written
to the party at the camp, stating a vessel was in the
bay, and the bearer, one of the natives, would take
them to it. This was given to one of the natives in
the first canoe, and Jackey, whom the natives recog-
nised, beckoned and motioned to them to take the
note to the camp. In the meantime the Captain
and I had determined as soon as the boat could
be got ready, to proceed according to Jackey’s
instructions to the camp. The boat left with our
party, and Jackey directed us some distance off in
the wake of the canoes, there being nothing but a
mangrove swamp on the shore near us. We landed
beside of a creek, knee-deep in water, among some
mangroves. Here we got out of the boat, Jackey,
the Captain, Barrett, and myself,—Tom, the sailor
who had accompanied us before, saying he could
not go, that he had a bad leg. We were a little
disappointed here, but said nothing, and proceeded.

250 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

Jackey leading, myself, the Captain, and Barrett
following, through a mangrove swamp, for some
considerable distance, all well armed. Getting out
of the swamp we came upon a beautiful flat, and
followed up a creek which Jackey said would lead
up to the camp. After getting on (keeping a good
look-out) for about two miles, Jackey doubled his
pace, and all at once said, with great emphasis, “I
see camp.” “Well done, Jackey,” I think was
exclaimed by all of us at the same moment. Jackey,
still going on at a sharp pace, stopped for a moment
and said, “I not sure, I believe it is hole through
tree,” and suddenly, with greater excitement than
before, he exclaimed, “See, two white fellows sit
down, and camp.” We were now on one side of
the creek: down the creek we went, and up on the
other side in double quick time, and a scene
presented itself. On the other side of the hill, not
two hundred yards from us, were two men sitting
down, looking towards us, the tent and fire
immediately behind them; and on coming up to
them, two of the most pitiable creatures imaginable
were sitting down. One had sufficient strength to
get up; the other appeared to be like a man in the
very last stage of consumption. Alas! alas! they
were the only two left of the eight, the remainder
having died from starvation. Whilst here we were
considering what was best to be done, when natives
in great numbers were descried watching our
movements. Jackey said, “Doctor,” calling me

STATEMENT OF DR. VALLACK. 251

aside, “now I tell you exactly what to do, you see
those black fellows over there,” (and in pointing to
them I saw a great number, some eight hundred
yards away, peeping from behind trees,) “ you leave
him tent, everything, altogether there, and get the
two white fellows down to the boat quick.” Jackey
was exceedingly energetic, and grave as well. Get
away as quick as possible, was resounded by all,
but what was to be done—two men almost dead to
walk two or three miles. We looked over the tent,
asked Carron for what important things there were,
and each laid hold of what appeared to be of most
value, the Captain taking two sextants, other parties
fire-arms, &c., &e. “Come along,” again and
again Jackey called out, and the Captain too, whilst
they were half way down towards the creek, and
Barrett and I loaded ourselves. I took a case of
seeds, some papers of Carron’s, a double gun and
pistol, which, together with my own double gun and
brace of pistols, thermometer, and my pockets full
of powder and shot, was as muchas I could manage.
Seeing Carron could not get along, I told him to
put his hands on my shoulders, and in this way he
managed to walk down, as far as nearly through the
mangrove swamp, towards the water’s edge, when
he could not in that way possibly get any further,
and Barrett, with his disabled arm, carried him
down to the edge of the water. Goddard, the other
survivor, was just able to walk down, spoke, and
looked exceedingly feeble. They were brought on

252 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

board at noon, and attended to according to my
instructions. Carron’s legs were dreadfully swollen,
about three times their natural size, from cedema.
In the afternoon both reviving and thanking God
for their deliverance. I was for some time afraid
of Carron. At ten P.m.—they are both doing well,
and, I trust, will be enabled to tell their own tale,
which renders it unnecessary for me to write it
down here. I told the Captain to proceed direct on
to Sydney. Jackey, Carron, and Goddard, and the
Captain, stating it would be running too great a
risk to go to recover anything from the tent,
moreover, with so small a party as the Captain,
Jackey, and myself, (Barrett really being unfit to
go), and the sailors all refusing to go. I consider
the Captain deserves considerable credit for his
actions throughout in exerting himself to rescue the
surVIVOTS.

Dee. 31st—At daylight got under weigh and
took our departure from Weymouth Bay for Sydney.
Carron and Goddard were some considerable time in
getting better; the former being subject to daily
fits of ague, &e. Ke.

Jan. 11th, 1849.—The black native had made his
escape during the night, whilst it was ramming and
blowing hard; we were at this time anchored about
one and a-half or two miles from Turtle Reef, and a
distance of eight miles from Cape Bedford, the
nearest part of the mainland; made search on the
reef, but saw no marks of him ; a strong current was

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 253

making towards Cape Bedford, and he might have
taken that direction. Two large sharks were seen
about the ship this morning ; it is our impression
the man can never have reached the land; the black
was seen by Parker, on deck, at two a.M., whilst it
was thundering, lightening, and raining, but was
never seen afterwards.

EXTRACT

From the private log of T. Beckrorp Simpson,
master of the brig “ Freak,”* giving an account
of her proceedings when employed in searching
for the papers, &c., connected with the late Mr.
Kennedy’s exploring party.

May 2nd, 1849.—In the night fresh breezes from
N.E. with rain; at daylight weighed and made sail,
the Harbinger in company ; shaped a course to pass
between Cape Direction and the low sandy island
which lies off it; passed close to the latter; I
observed the reef extending from the N.E. end
further than laid down on the chart; after passing
it, and giving Cape Direction a good berth, shaped

* Under contract with the Colonial Government to call (on her
way to Port Essington) at Shelburne Bay and Escape River, to
ascertain—if possible—the fate of the three men left at the
former place, and recover the papers of Mr. Kennedy secreted by
Jackey Jackey, who went in the Freak to point out the localities.

254 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

a course for Restoration Island. At 9 A.M., dense
masses of rain-clouds to the east and north-east.
The weather became thick and rainy; shortened sail
to the topsails. At 10°30 4.M., the weather clearing
a little, saw Restoration and Cape Weymouth;
when close to the former we had heavy squalls with
rain, which prevented our seeing the land ; hove-to
with the vessel’s head to the N.E.; shortly after
the weather clearing a little so as to enable us to
see the land, bore up and stood in for Weymouth
Bay. The rain now descended in torrents, lowered
topsail on the cap, feeling our way cautiously with
the lead; finding the water shoaling, anchored in
twelve fathoms; at 0°30 P.u., the weather clearing
a little, saw Restoration, bearmg 8.8.E. 4 E., and
a small island distant about a mile west.

At 8°30 p.m. fine, and finding we were a long
distance out, weighed and ran in under the jib,
the Harbinger following our example; as we ap-
proached the bottom of the bay the water shoaled
gradually, and when the haze lifted Jackey pointed
out the hill at the foot of which was the camp
where Mr. Kennedy had left eight of the party,
and from whence Carron and Goddard had been
rescued. We stood into five fathoms, and at 5 P.1.
anchored about 13 miles from the shore; the
Harbinger brought up close to us. Made up my
mind to visit the camp in the morning, and endea-
your to find if there were any papers which might
have been left and not destroyed.

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 255

May 38rd.—During the night moderate breeze
from the south with light showers. At five a.m,
Captain Sampson came alongside, he wishing to
join our party, and visit the camp. Having well
manned and armed the large whaleboat, pulled on
shore, and landed at the entrance of a small river,
on a little sand patch, the place having been pointed
out by Jackey ; it was the only clear landing-place
Isaw. A dense mangrove swamp extended some
distance beyond high water mark. We had no
sooner landed than the rain fell in torrents, and
continued for three hours, so much so that we could
not load our guns. It was about high water when
we landed, and in the mangrove scrub through
which we had to go, the water was nearly up to our
waists. We had, therefore, no alternative but to
remain patiently until the tide fell, and the rain
ceased.

On searching the place where we landed, part of
a blanket was found, marked ®7°, a part of a
tarpaulin, a piece of canvass, apparently a portion of
a tent, and a small tin-dish, with a name scratched
on its back. ‘These articles were evidently part of
the pillage from the camp. A little way up the
creek we found three canoes, very rudely made,
with outriggers on both sides. We searched and
found some small pieces of iron, which we took,
being also pillage from the exploring party. At
ten A.M., less rain, got some of our pieces blown off
with difficulty, they being drenched with rain.

256 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

At eleven a.M., having some of our guns in a
state to be trusted, we took to our boats and pulled
a short distance up the creek in order to avoid in
some measure the crossing of the mangrove swamp.
We started, Jackey taking the lead, leaving a party
to look after the boats. We walked for a short
distance in the mangrove swamp, and came out on
an open spot where we found a native camp, which
from appearances had been but recently abandoned,
the ashes of the fire being still warm: we made a
strict search, but found nothing; we proceeded,
passed through a small belt of mangroves, and came
on an open plain; here Jackey and Tommy being
the leading men, saw five natives, about fifty yards
from us, planted behind trees, each with a bundle of
spears; they were evidently watching us,—Jackey
levelled his gun at the nearest, and off they ran and
disappeared immediately: Jackey seemed very de-
sirous to shoot them, but I told him not to fire, as I
wished to speak to them.

From the recent heavy rain the plain was very
nearly knee-deep with water, nearly the whole
distance we travelled the water was over our
ankles, making walking very fatiguing. After
crossing the plain we came to a band of trees and
bushes, among them I was surprised to find some
very fine banana plants; I observed also a fine
specimen of the red cedar, (the only tree I had
hitherto seen was the Melaleuca ;) here we crossed
a small creek, and came on fine forest land. After

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 257

proceeding some distance, Jackey pointed out the
place where the first party camped, and where Mr.
Kennedy left the eight men; they subsequently
removed to the opposite side of the creek; near
this place on a tree was carved in large letters
“K. LXXX.,” which I suppose meant the eightieth
station. On coming to the creek found it running
too strong for us to ford it; went along by its side
a short distance, and were fortunate to find a tree
extending across it, upon which we got over; found
the grass as high as our shoulders, crossed a small
gully and ascended a slight acclivity, which brought
us to the site of the camp; a bare spot of ground
indicated the exact locality ; this spot was strewed
with portions of books, all of a religous or scientific
character ; found no manuscripts; parts of har-
ness, leather-belts, pieces of cedar boxes in leather
covers were also found; one or two tins for carrying
water, a camp stool, and part of a table, and piece
of a tent pole, the bones, skulls, and part of the
feathers of birds, &c. ; specimens of natural history,
all destroyed. I observed the bones of a horse, and
the skull of a dog; a piece of torn calico with a
portion of a chart adhering to it was picked up; I
thought I could make out the words “ River
Mitchell” on it. J found among the pieces of
books, a portion of Leichhardt’s journey overland.

I was some time before I could find the remains
of Wall and Niblet, who were the last men that
died, and had not been buried, the survivors being

VOL. Il. 8

258 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

too weak. I placed myself at the camp, and looked
about for the likeliest place to which a corpse would
be taken under the circumstances. I went down
into a small gully, about sixty yards from the
camp; under some small bushes, in about two feet
of water, I found their bones, two skulls and some
of the larger bones, the smaller ones having most
probably been washed away by the flood; the bones
were all carefully collected and taken on board.
From the position in which these bones were found,
agreeing with the description given me by Mr.
Carron, I feel confident they are the remains of
Wall and Niblet.

I was rather surprised to find some cabbage-palm
trees growing in the vicinity of the camp; the tops
are very nutritious, and would be very desirable for
men in a starving state, had they been aware of it.
I picked up part of a key belonging to a chro-
nometer. After having a good look round, we
returned to the boats, all tired, from our drenching
and wading through so much mud and water, and
we unfortunately had no provisions of any kind,
and had eaten nothing all day. When we pulled
to the entrance of the river it was low water, and
there was a bank dry outside of us for upwards of
half a mile; we had no alternative but to wait until
the tide flowed. At half-past three p.m., got on
board, hoisted the boat in, and prepared to start in
the morning.

May 4th—At daylight, weighed, with a light

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 259

breeze from the southward; steered to give Fair
Cape a berth. I observed the entrance of a large
river at the north end of Weymouth Bay. At
half-past ten a.M., passed Piper’s Islands, and
steered for Young Island; could not make it out
for some time, when we did see it, found it only a
small reef above water, not worthy the name of an
island; such a misnomer is likely to mislead;
hauled up for the reef M. At noon, abreast of
Haggerstone Island, steered to give Sir Everard
Home’s Isles a berth; saw natives on Cape Gren-
ville ; hauled in for Sunday Island ; the wind light
from the eastward; passed Thorpe Point, and
hauled in for Round Point. At five p.m., anchored
in six fathoms, mud. Bearings-at anchor, North
Sand Hill, D, (conical hill), S.E. 3 E.; South Wind
Hillock, (a saddle hill), 8S. ; E.; the remarkable
sand-patch, 8.W. 3 W.; Jackey’s Pudding-pan
Hill, W.4 N. Got the whaleboat and crew ready
to start at daylight for Shelburne Bay.

On consulting Jackey about going to the camp
where the three men were left, he said it was no use
goine there; the distance was great, and the
country scrubby, and that he was sure if any of the
men were alive, they would be on the sea-coast.
Dunn, one of the men, told him, if Costigan died,
he should come down to the beach directly. I
therefore considered all that we could do would be
to thoroughly examine the coast with the whaleboat,
close in shore, and the brig as near as she prudently

could approach.
s 2

260 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

At daylight despatched the whaleboat, in charge
of the second officer, with four seamen, Jackey, and
his two companions, with particular orders to keep
close to the beach, and to land occasionally, to
examine all the native camping places and canoes;
to make strict search for anything that might tend
to point out the fate of the unfortunate men. At
6°30 A.M. weighed, with a light breeze from the
southward, and steered to pass between the Bird
and Macarthur Islands; at noon abreast of the
latter; P.M., after passing Hannibal Isles, hauled
in for the shore, for the purpose of picking up the
whaleboat. At 5:30 P.M., having shoaled our water
rather suddenly to 33 fathoms, hard bottom, an-
chored about a mile off shore. Saw a canoe and a
few natives on the beach. Bearings at anchor—
Risk Point, 8. 4 E.; the centre of the Hannibal
Isles, 8.E. by E. half E. At eight p.m. the boat
returned. The second officer made the following
Report :—

“T kept close along the beach all day, landed
three times; first, near the creek where the Ariel’s
boat landed, saw no indication there of Europeans.
I landed again some distance further on, where I
saw a native camp and a canoe. In the latter I
found a leathern pistol holster, marked 84, which
Jackey recognised as belonging to the party.
Three natives were seen by Jackey, who, on
perceiving the boat, ran into the bush. At the
third place I landed I saw no indication of men. I

.LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 961

was close to the beach all along, and occasionally
fired a musket.”

Jackey appears confident that the men left have
been killed by the blacks. He said he had hopes
of finding Dunn, he being a man that “knew
blackfellow well, and used to go along black-
fellow.”

May 6th.— At daylight sent the boat on shore,
manned as before, with instructions to land at the
place where I saw natives last night. At 6°30
A.M., weighed and set the topsails to a light breeze
from the southward, steered N. by E. $ E., hauling
out a little from the land. At seven hearing a
rumbling noise, looked over the vessel’s side and
saw we were in shoal water, the vessel gradually
losing her way, but still continued forging ahead a
‘ittle ; lowered the boat and sounded round, found
more water ahead, thirteen and fourteen feet; in
shore, about half a cable’s length found five and six
fathoms; to seaward, eleven and eleven and a half
feet. Set the foresail: having a flowing tide the
vessel went ahead and deepened our water; after
going ahead about two or three ship’s lengths
touched again slightly, and immediately after got
into five and six fathoms. The sea being smooth
at the time, and the after part of the keel being the
only part of the vessel that touched, she cannot
have received any material damage. This shoal
appeared to be of small extent, composed of sand
and coral; it is not laid down in the chart, but is

262 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

very dangerous, not being visible from the mast
head. I went aloft after crossing it, and could
perceive no indication of shoal water. The bearings
I got when on the shoal were, the outer or larger
Hannibal Island, 8.E. $ E., the inner one (only a
solitary tree visible) 8. by E. 4 E.

At eleven a.m. passed Cairncross Island, running
under easy sail and keeping as near the shore as
prudent to keep the boat in sight. I have given
instructions to the officers in charge to make a
signal if anything was discovered. At half-past
four hauled in for Fern Island; at five anchored
under the lee in three fathoms, mud; bearings, the
highest part of Fern Island S. by E., the entrance
to Escape River, N.W. by W. 4 W., hoisted the
recall for the boat, on the return of which the
officer reported as follows.

“T ran along close to the shore all day. I
landed a little to the southward of Orfordness. We
met about thirty natives on the beach, who came
up to us without hesitation, and appeared very
friendly; they shook hands with all of us, and
brought us water. Jackey at first thought he
recognised the native who escaped from the Ariel
among them; he got a little excited, and wanted to
shoot him, when he approached nearer he was
satisfied he was not the same individual. At
another place where I landed I found part of the
lower mast of a vessel about 400 tons, and pieces of
wreck ; saw no natives or indication of them on the
beach.”

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 263

The schooner seen yesterday remained at anchor,
and from the fact of her doing so, I came to the
conclusion it could be no other vessel than the
Coquette ;* seeing her so far from her station, I
imagined there was something wrong, or that she
had heard the unfortunate termination of the expe-
dition, and was preparing to leave; I determined to
communicate with her before proceeding up Escape
River; at half-past eight A.M., saw four natives on
the beach.

At nine a.M., I left m the whaleboat for the
schooner —the small boat employed in watering. At
half-past eleven a.M., I boarded the Coquette ;
Captain Elliott had heard by the Sea Nymph, from
Hobart Town, the fate of the expedition, and was
about leaving for Sydney. She reported the ship
Lord Auckland, from Hobart Town, with horses,
having been aground on the X reef for several
days; she subsequently got off, and had proceeded
on her voyage, not having sustained any very
material damage; she had lost four anchors, and
the Coquette was going to try to pick them up.
Having explained to Captain Elliott my intention of
proceeding up the Escape River in the morning, he
volunteered to accompany me, and to supply two
hands, which enabled me to man my two boats, thus
making a most formidable party.

* Which had been sent from Sydney to await the arrival of

Kennedy’s Expedition at Port Albany, the period for which the
Ariel had been chartered for that purpose having expired,

264 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

At daylight made preparations for starting. I
took the five-oared whaleboat, and the second officer,
accompanied by Captain Elliott, went in the small
boat, both well armed and manned. At half-past
six A.M. we left and ran before a strong breeze from
the 8.E., and stood in for the entrance of Escape
River. At half-past seven hauled in round the
south head (Point Shadwell): in crossing the bar,
least water three fathoms, the tide being’ about first
quarter spring flood.

After entering the river perceived a bay, with
small sandy beaches, one of which Jackey pointed
out as the place where Mr. Kennedy first met the
hostile natives; from this place we observed some
of them launching a canoe for the purpose of
speaking us, but as we could not afford to lose
either the time or the tide I deferred communicating
with them until our return. After steering west
about five or six miles, the river began gradually
to wind to the northward, and afterwards 8.8.E. ;
the river six or seven miles from the entrance was
upwards of a mile in width; both banks were
covered by a dense impenetrable mangrove swamp ;
after the river trended to the southward we had to
lower our sail and pull; after pulling some four or
five miles the river became gradually narrower. I
observed several branches of it trending to the
northward and westward; we remained on the
southernmost branch, the principal one; as we
proceeded on the left hand side of the river we came

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 265

to a clear place free of mangroves, the only one we
had seen; here we landed, and Jackey pointed it
out as the place where Mr. Kennedy had come
down on the morning of the day when he was
killed; it was here Jackey advised him to abandon
the horses and swim the river, about thirty yards
wide. Jackey pointed out the tree where he made
the horses fast whilst they went down to the river
and searched in vain for oysters, they having had
nothing to eat all that day.

We again proceeded, the river becoming gradually
narrower as we advanced, and the water perfectly
fresh. After going about two er three miles, the
river became so narrow that our oars could not be
used. We were compelled to haul the boats along,
against a strong stream, by the over-hanging
branches of the trees, frequently coming across
fallen trees, over which we had to launch our boats,
running the risk of staving them ; and again obliged
to force them under others. A better spot could
not have been selected by the natives for cutting us
off, had they been so disposed—a narrow creek, and
a dense scrub on either side. We still proceeded
till the boats could get no further. We had traced
the Escape River to its source—a small fresh water
creek. As we advanced the belt of mangroves
became thinner. We landed on a clear place, on
the right of the creek. We went a short distance
inland ; saw an extensive plain, with numerous large
ant-hills on it, which Jackey knew as the place he

266 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

had crossed the day Mr. Kennedy was killed.
Jackey went a short distance further to reconnoitre,
and presently returned, having perfectly satisfied
himself as to our locality.

After making a hasty meal we proceeded, leaving
four hands in charge of the boats; we walked some
distance across a swamp, still following the course
of the creek. In the swamp I saw a great many
of the Nepenthes destillatoria, or pitcher-plant ;
they were not exactly of the same description I
have seen on the Pellew Islands, and other places ;
nearly all of them wanted the graceful turn in the
stem, for which those elegant plants are so justly
celebrated. We traced the creek for nearly a mile,
looking out for a crossing place, when Jackey
pointed out on the other side the place where he
had secreted the saddle-bags. At length we came
to a tree which had fallen and formed a kind of
bridge, over which we passed with difficulty, and
returned to the place where Jackey said the saddle-
bags were planted. Jackey then shewed us the
place where “ horse tumble down creek” after being
speared. Some horse-dung was found on the top
of the bank close to this place, which confirmed
Jackey’s statement ; he then took us a few yards
into the scrub to look for the saddle-bags, and told
us to look about for a broken twig, growing over a
thick bush; the place was found, but the saddle-
bags were ,gone; on searching under the bush
among the leaves, the horizon glass of a sextant was

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 267

found, a strong proof that Jackey had hit upon the
right place.

Jackey then took us through a dense scrub for
some distance, when we came on open swampy
ground about half a mile wide; on the opposite
side there was more scrub, close to which there
were three large ant-hills ; Jackey took us up to the
centre one, five yards from which poor Kennedy
fell; against this ant-hill Jackey placed him when
he went after the saddle-bags. Jackey told us to
look about for broken spears; some pieces were
found; he then took us to a place about sixty yards
from the ant-hill, where he put Mr. Kennedy, who
then told him not to carry him far. About a
quarter of a mile from this place, towards the creek,
Jackey pointed out a clear space of ground, near an
angle of a very small running stream of fresh water,
close to three young pandanus trees, as the place
where the unfortunate gentleman died. Jackey
had taken him here to wash his wounds and stop
the blood. It was here, when poor Kennedy found
he was dying, that he gave Jackey instructions
about the papers, when Jackey said, “ Why do you
talk so: you are not going to leave me?”

Jackey then led the way to a dense tea-tree
scrub, distant about three or four hundred yards,
where he had carried the body and buried it. When
we came to the edge of the scrub, Jackey was at a
loss where to enter, as he said when he was carrying
the corpse he did not look behind—all the objects in

268 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

front being nearly alike he did not get a good.
mark. Into the midst of the scrub we went, divided
ourselves and searched in every direction, but could
not find the place; Jackey had not made the spot
too conspicuous, fearing the blacks might find it, he
had only bent down two twigs across each other ;
the scrub was not very extensive but exceedingly
thick.

Jackey led the way to a creek, and pointed out
the place where he had crossed. Jackey said, “ I
threw him down one fellow compass somewhere
here.” It was immediately found, it was one of
Kater’s prismatic compasses, the name “ Chislett,
London,” engraved on the back. Jackey then went
to a place where he “plant him sextant,” but the
flood had been over the spot and washed it away.
When returning I found the trough for an artificial
horizon washed upon the banks of the creek; this
had been left with the sextant. Jackey crossed the
creek, and found a small wooden bottle of quick-
silver in the same place where he had left it.

We returned to the scrub where Mr. Kennedy
was buried: when we came to it I placed the party
(eleven in number) five yards asunder, and traversed
it this way in all directions, but without success. I
then took Jackey to the plain where the poor
gentleman died, and told him to go towards the
scrub in the same manner he did when he was
carrying the corpse, and not to look back, which he
did, telling me the manner in which he carried it,

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 269

and where he shifted it from one shoulder to another.
In this manner he entered the scrub, and I have no
doubt he took us very near the exact place where
the body was buried; we sounded the ground all
round with our ramrods, but without success. After
taking another good look we reluctantly gave up the
search, as the night was rapidly approaching, and
returned to the boats.

My opinion is, that the remains of the unfortunate
gentleman have not been exhumed ; if they had, we
should have seen some indication of them; the natives
would not have taken the trouble to fill the grave,
or take away the bones. The soil where he was
buried was of a light sandy nature, and the small
mound Jackey rose over the grave had been washed
down by the heavy rains. The only clue that gave
rise to the supposition that the natives had found
the body, was the fact that part of Mr. Kennedy’s
trowsers was found in the canoe taken by the
schooner Ariel. Jackey said there were other
trowsers in the saddle-bag,, exactly like those he had
on at the time of his death. The saddle-bags, there
is not the slightest doubt, have been found by the
natives. Poor Jackey was very quiet, but felt,
and felt deeply, during the day. When pointing
out the spot where Mr. Kennedy died, I saw tears
in his eyes, and no one could be more indefatigable
in searching for the remains. His feelings against
the natives were bitter, and had any of them made
their appearance at the time, I could hardly have
prevented him from shooting them.

270 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

When we got back to the boats, we immediately
proceeded down the creek, being anxious to get
clear of the intricate navigation before dark. We
succeeded in getting into the open river with difh-
culty, the numerous snags and branches of trees in
the creek, together with the strong current, requiring
great precaution to prevent our boats being stove.

A few yards above the place pointed out by
Jackey in the morning, where Mr. Kennedy came
down to the river for the purpose of crossing, we
found the water very shallow, not ankle deep, right
across ; had they waited until low water they might
have crossed without difficulty ; as we pulled down
the river we found numerous shoals, our boat
constantly grounding ; in fact Escape River is not
a river, but an estuary, terminating in swamps.

At eleven we arrived at the entrance of the river,
where I camped for the night, on a sandy beach
not far from Point Shadwell, having determined to

examine the native camp at daybreak. Set a watch,
but made no fire, as I wanted to take the natives
by surprise.

May 9th.—Blowing very hard all night from
S. E.; passed a miserable night—the mosquitoes
devouring us. At break of day launched our boats
and pulled towards the camp where we had seen
the natives the day before. Some of the party went
along the beach. On arriving at the camp found it
had very recently been abandoned; one of Jackey’s
companions saw one native, who’ ran into the bush
and was seen no more.

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 271

I went with Jackey some distance into the bush,
he shewed me the place where a native threw a
spear at him the day before Mr. Kennedy’s death;
Jackey fired, but missed him. I forgot to mention
that the master of the Coquette had seen a native at
Port Albany, who had, apparently, been wounded
in the face with large shot, and as he answered the
exact description given by Jackey, there is little
doubt that he was the same individual mentioned
in his statement as shot by him.

We searched the camp, found a small piece of
red cloth, which Jackey recognised as part of the
lining of Mr. K.’s cloak, also a piece of painted
canvass; a canoe on the beach we destroyed.
Finding nothing more could be done, we pulled out
of the river, and got on board about ten a.M., after
a very hard pull against both a head wind and
tide.

Found the brig riding very uneasy in consequence
of the heavy sea, and as Jackey said the other
papers, called by him the small ones, and which I
conceive to be the most important, as he was par-
ticularly instructed to take them to the Governor,
were secreted at the head of another river, about
eight miles further to the northward, and finding
the vessel could not ride here any longer with
safety, I determined, when the tide ceased, to weigh
and seek some more secure anchorage.

At half-past twelve p.m. weighed, the Coquette
in company, and stood to the northward. At half-

272 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

past four hard squalls and heavy rain; rounded the
Tree Island Reef and anchored in five fathoms,
about one and a half miles from the north end of
Albany Island.

I do not intend gomg into Port Albany, as the
tides run very strong there ; outside is quite as safe
at this season. In the evening went on shore on
Albany Island. Saw four or five natives, who
knew Captain Elliott; they were very anxious to
get biscuit and tobacco. They seem to be the same
class of men as those of Port Essington, but the
language is, I think, different.

May 10th.—All night blowing hard, and squally.
At daylight same weather ; no chance of the boat
getting to the southward to-day. At ten went on
shore, for the purpose of selecting a spot to inter
the remains of Messrs. Wall and Niblet. Saw the
horse left by the Ariel ; he seemed in good con-
dition, but rather shy; no chance, I fear, of
catching him. Took some corn and meal in a
bucket for him.

At three p.m. the weather rather more moderate.
Both vessels got under weigh, and worked close in
shore. At 4-30anchored in three and three-quarters
fathoms, mud: Tree Island N.E. by E. half E.; Pile
Island W. half 8.; north extreme of Albany Island
S. by E. half E.; within a short half mile of the
shore.

Got all ready for a start in the morning, should
the weather be moderate. Should the weather

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 278

continue bad, I proposed to Jackey to try the over-
land route. He said the distance was too great,
and the country very bad to travel through ; that it
would take several days.

May 11th.—All night fresh breeze and squally,
at daylight rather more moderate; at half-past six
despatched the whale boat, fully manned and armed
and provisioned for two days, and Jackey and his
two companions. I gave charge of the boat to Mr.
Macnate, my chief officer. I did not think there
was any necessity to go myself, as Jackey said they
were not likely to fall in with any natives. Captain
Elliot volunteered his services and accompanied the
party. Employed watering ship,—found water very
abundant all over Albany Island.

May 12th.—At half-past one p.m. the whaleboat
returned, having got the papers, &c., secreted by
Jackey in a hollow tree. A rat or some animal had
pulled them out of the tree, and they were saturated
with water, and I fear nearly destroyed; they con-
sisted of a roll of charts and some memorandum
books. The charts with care may be deciphered.
The following is Mr. Macnate’s statement.

“ May 11th.—At eight a.M. we rounded Fly
Point, set sail and steered 8. by W., the boat going
about five knots, just laying along the shore. At
ten A.M. crossed a bank with only nine feet of water
on it, passed a reef about three miles from Fly
Point, and half a mile from the shore ; from former
shoal had three and four fathoms to the entrance of

VOL. II. T

274 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

the river. At half-past eleven a.m. entered the
mouth of a river, near the centre of Newcastle
Bay ; here we lost: sight of Albany Island, making
the distance from it about fourteen miles; the
entrance of this river is about one mile and a half
wide; on the northern half of the entrance the
water is deep, three fathoms; on the southern side
there is a sand bank, nearly dry at low water.

“From the entrance we went 8.S.W. five miles,
when the river narrowed to about the third of a
mile, we had from six to two and a half fathoms all
the way in. From here we went into the branch
of the river that ran about south, the main river
going west. The entrance to the branch is about
two cable’s-lengths wide, we went in a southerly
direction about six miles, when the river narrowed
to forty feet ; here we landed at half-past three P.M.
leaving two hands in charge of the boat, walked
about two and a half miles, where Jackey found the
papers,—they had been pulled out of the hollow
trunk where he had placed them, and were much
damaged, being saturated with water. We then
went half a mile to where Jackey had camped, to
look for a pair of compasses he had left: could not
find them, but found a note book that Jackey had
been drawing sketches in; from here we went to
another camp to look for the compasses, but did not
find them. At half-past five came back to the boat
and camped for the night ; none of us could sleep on
account of the mosquitoes and flies, &c.

LOG OF MR. SIMPSON. 875

“At six A.M. started down the river; at eight
calm, got into the main river, had breakfast. At
half-past eight, a light breeze from the eastward.
At eleven passed within half a mile of two native
canoes with seven men in each, stood towards them,
when they immediately paddled away. At one,
rounded Fly Point, and at half-past one got along-
side the brig.”

May 13th.—Fresh breeze from §.E. and fine all
day. At eight a.m. both vessels hoisted the ensign
half mast. At three p.m. having put the remains
of Messrs. Wall and Niblet in a coffin, left the ship
in the two boats with nearly all the ship’s crew
cleaned, and pulled to the southern end of Albany
Island, landed and went up to the highest hill on
that part of the island, and on the top, a clear open
place, we dug a grave and interred the remains of
the unfortunate individuals, Thomas Wall and
Charles Niblet, reading the funeral service over them;
about ten or twelve natives were present, and we
fully explained to them what we were doing, they
conducted themselves with propriety while the
funeral service was being read. Poor Jackey was
much affected, and could not refrain from tears.

The spot I selected is the most conspicuous on the
island, and would be an excellent site for the erection
of a monument to the memory of the unfortunate men
who perished on the late ill-fated expedition.* At

* A tombstone with suitable inscription was afterwards erected
by Capt. Stanley, and two young cocoa-nut trees were planted

near the grave.

T 2

276 KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION.

each end of the grave I planted two large bushes,
and on the top were placed several large stones. A
bottle was suspended over the grave, with a paper in
it, stating who was interred, with the date, &c. ; and
at sunset we returned on board.

I cannot close my extracts without mentioning
the exemplary conduct of Jackey Jackey. Since he
came on board I have always found him quiet,
obliging, and very respectful ; when on shore he was
very attentive, nothing could abstract him from his
object ; the sagacity and knowledge he displayed in
traversing the trackless wilderness were astonishing ;
when he found the places he went in search of, he
was never flushed with success, but invariably main-
tained his quiet, unobtrusive behaviour; he was much
concerned at not being able to find the remains of
his late unfortunate master to whom he was sincerely
attached ; his two companions* also conducted
themselves well, and were very useful on shore.

* Aboriginal blacks of his own tribe.

APPENDIX.

No. I.

COMPARATIVE VOCABULARY

OF

TWO OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF
CAPE YORK.

A Few words procured at Cape York and Port Lihou
are given in the “ Voyage of the Fly,” and most of those
which I have been able to identify belong to the language
spoken by the Kowvrarega tribe, inhabiting the Prince of
‘Wales Islands, and frequently visiting Cape York.

For the materials composing the present Kowrarega
Vocabulary, I am almost entirely indebted to Mrs. Thom-
son. Unfortunately, however, her total want of education
prevented her from acquiring any idea of the construction
of the language; nor could she always be made to under-
stand the meaning of a question—however simple in its
form—framed to elicit information on this point. Even by
carefully sifting at leisure hours the mass of crude ma-
terials obtained from her and written down at each inter-
view, day by day, I did not make sufficient progress in the
grammar of the language to enable me to pursue the
subject further, until her value as an authority had so far
declined that it was prudent to reject it altogether. Nearly
all the words originally procured from Mrs. Thomson were

278 APPENDIX.

subsequently verified either by herself or by our Kowra-
rega visitors.

The Gudang Vocabulary was formed at Cape York, and
the chief contributor to it was the black named Paida,
mentioned in the preceding pages, to whom I latterly
was able to make myself tolerably well understood upon
most subjects, through the medium of the Kowrarega
language, which he knew thoroughly. As several dialects
are spoken at this place,* I took care to reject all such
words as were not given me expressly as Gudang. a

The following rules have been adopted in the Voca-
bularies.

The vowels are sounded as follows :—

as a in hard

a © as o in hole.
a, a ,, hat 0, 0 ,, not.
é ,, e ,, there ui also u final
3, 00 ,, cool
e ,, e ,, bet uy, uu ,, cut
é€ French é ais, 4, eye
I ,, ee ,, eel ei not represented in
Ae gyi 2 45 Dib English

G is always hard, as in get; ch soft, as in church.
The letters in italics are sometimes omitted.

The numbers appended to some words point out simi-
Jarities and derivations.

* Two examples will suffice to shew the differences in the five languages
which I have heard spoken at Cape York.

Dog=ing-godinya (Gudang and Yagulle), ngyomo (Kachialaiga), Inyomo
(Induyamo), umai (Kowrarega).

Smoke=ekura (Gudang and Induyamo), rong-gura (Yagulle and Kachia-
jaiga), tuo (Kowrarega).

APPENDIX. 279

I. NATURAL OBJECTS.*

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
1 Sky je
2 Sun gariga inga
3 Cloud dapar otéra
4 heavy, cumu- markei
lus
5 driving, scud ras
6 Moon kissuri aikana
7 new kainidung (634) kichia
8 full mullpal ichara
9 Moonlight kapi kissurri
(612.6)
10 Star tittre onbi, anbi
ll falling titare vdzarizhe,
(10.745)
12 —— morning gariga titire,
(2.10)

* To form the plural of a noun or adjective, the rule appears to be to add
Ze as a postfix, sometimes previously supplying « terminal vowel if required :
Ex.—'' geta==hand”’ becomes “‘ getale’’ in the plural : ‘‘ kuku=foot, kukule:’”
“ kutai=yam, kutaile :”’ ‘‘ ipi—wife, ipile :’’ ‘‘ kerne—=lad undergoing a certain
ceremony, kernele:’’ ‘‘makaow==mat, makaowle:’” ‘‘ bom=fruit of pan-
danus, bomale.’’ There are exceptions however; ‘‘ mari=shell ornament,”
makes “‘marurre’’ in the plural: ‘‘ gul==canoe, gulai;’’ ‘‘ tawpei=short,
tawpeingh ;’’ all nouns ending in ra have the plural in re, as ‘‘ kowra=ear,
kowrare ’’ and all ending in Aai gain jille in the plural, as ‘‘ ipikai—woman,
ipikaijille.”

Regarding the allusion to a terminal vowel, it may be mentioned here that
as most Kowrarega words end in a vowel, its absence when a vowel commences
the following word is commonly owing to elision. Ex.—‘‘udzu umaimmy
dog,” becomes ‘‘ udz’umai.’’? When the last consonant in a word is the same
as the first in the following word, one of the letters is omitted. Ex.—** apa
pirung=soft ground,’’ becomes ‘‘ap’irung.’’ There are numerous other
contractions, as ‘‘ ai’’ for ‘‘aidu=food;”’ ‘‘ aiye’’ for ‘‘ aiyewel=come here ;”’
“* mue utsem=the fire has gone out,”’ for ‘ mue utsimem,”’ &c.

280 APPENDIX.

English, Kowrarega. Gudang.
13 Jupiter ? dogei
14 Pleiades kuisali*
15 Darkness, night indr yalpalga
16 Shadow, shade yirada moda
17 Wind gaba alba
18 Rain ari aptra
19 Rainbow oripara ung-gebanya
20 Dew arma
21 Fog winu
22 Thunder diyima wagél (526)
23 Lightning baguma omba
24 Heat, steam kaman
25 Sea wir
26 Salt water adabu ting-onya
27 creek — kassur
28 —— swamp gowada gawata
29 Deep water mal
30 Shoal water gata
31 Wave baow
32 Foam tsika
33 High water wir pisakuradun

(746)

34 Low water wir nirémizinghi
35 Tide, flood wir kamizinghi
36 ebb war nurézinghi
37 Salt : i ? bawa
38 Freshwater niki epi
39 Spring dana nuki (443)
40 Well, hole dug in marama akanya

ground

* The frequency of words having different meanings may perhaps lead
some to suppose that they may have originated in error on my part. Some
have a figurative connexion as ‘‘ upu=a series of water holes, also a blister ;’’
**« kusalixthe constellation of the Pleiades, also a plant with bunches of seeds
which become white and glittering by exposure to the sun :’’ others have no
obvious community of meaning, as ‘‘ ari=rain, also a louse ;’’ ‘‘ gi=laughter,
also ripe,” &c.

41

42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56

57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69

70

APPENDIX.
English. Kowrarega.
Stream of fresh bubbu
water
bed of kassa
Chain of ponds upu (529)
Land laga (370)
Sand, sandy beach bitu
Island kowra (455)
Reef madji
Flat, plain bowa
Hill, wooded pada
stony baradi (56)
Ground, soil apa
Mud barrudder
Mangrove swamp tugga
Stone, rock kila, kola
Cave, hole in rock sakai

Any remarkable adi
rock
Cliff thi
Sandstone iba-eba
Quartz as
Pumice maat
Ochre, red parma
yellow daoma
Fire, wood mute
Flame bayéli
Smoke tio
Ashes kdanur
Charcoal barker
Path yabu
Summer, dry sea- aibow

son
Winter, rainy sea- kiki*
son

Gudang.
epitaba (38)

artaba
aigi
unbonya

pada

ampa

olpa

elpowa
méta
anto

yoko
ekora, ektra
btro-biiro

onta

alka

adara

* Also applied to the N.W. wind then prevailing.

281

282 APPENDIX.

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
71 SpringandAutumn malgii
72 Turtling season stlangi

a. Mammatta.

73 Tail of quadruped koba opo
74 Bat, large sapur
75 — young of kugi
76 harpy ‘ , tamidimi
77 —— small ararapa mali
78 Native cat 5 , kite
79 Dog umai ing-godinya
80 Bandicoot : : walkundinya
81 Kangaroo usur* epama
82 Opossum barit
83 Mouse makutz makutcha
84 Whale bidu
85 Dugong dung-ula wattei
86 tail of sun-na (149)
6. Birps.

87 Bird, insect, shell, tre wiuroi

&e.
88 Wing bita ngaga
89 Tail kupa-hiba (478) kopagoba.
90 Quill kai-kai aikinya, eikinya
91 Down palissa
92 Nest padama untinya (242)
93 Egg (or of reptile) kakiiré (499) achina (499)
94 Eagle agaleg

95 —— quill of babat (418)

* The sounds of s and z are wanting in Gidang, and when occurring in a
foreign language are represented by ch or ty. Ex.—The Kowrarega words
‘‘usur=kangaroo, makutz=mouse, surka—megapodius, susu=breasts,’’ if
pronounced by a Gudang black are rendered by ‘‘uchur, makutcha, tyurka,
tyu-tyu.”’

+ Literally the ‘‘ father (of feathers) ;’’ it is much prized as an ornament
both for the person and to deck graves with.

96
97
98
99

100

101

102
103
104

105
106
107

108
109
110
lll
112
113
114
115
116
117
118
119

120
121
122
123
124
125

English.
Hawk
Owl
Goatsucker
Laughing jackass
Kingfisher, long-
tailed
—_ yellow-
billed
Swamp pheasant
Swift
Parson-bird,
thrush
Bower-bird
Dragoon-bird
Fork-tailed _ fly-
catcher
Small thrush
Rifle-bird
Starling
Wood swallow
Small flycatcher
Sun-bird
Many small birds
Leather-head
Black macaw
Cockatoo
crest of
Parrot, blue
mountain
rosella
Pigeon, white
green
Dove, ground
green
Cassowary of N.
Guinea

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega.

biya
kowru

quako

weama
yélai (493)
kérissa

gainowa
waranis
ki-u-rig

sam (597)

Gudang.

kartam
taitru
ngoko
unbinya
quatawur

poditti

pura-ptra
ebundyara
wéya

yewinya
eipura
trokaru

chechurri
yagunya
muter
kartaquiko
kopota
terédirri
inchanya
kakua
peuntu
aira

inbére

wong-inya
gainowa
bélbucku
kudrogo
waraba (257)

284 APPENDIX.
English. Kowrarega.

126 Emu .

127 Brush turkey raon

128 Megapodius strka

129 mound of sirkaspada (49)

130 Quail ‘ :

131 Nativecompanion apdréga

132
133
134
135
136
137
138
139
140
141

142
143
144
145
146

147
148
149
150
151
152
153
154
155
156

157

Heron, night ;
blue karbai

white krém
Godwit
Sandpiper .
Frigate-bird :
Gull kéki
Tern
Teal : F
White duck diggi-diggi

c. REepriyEs.

Turtle, (general) waru

soft eggs oébada
hawksbill unao
green stlur
logger- urza
head
smallkind kidu waru
fore fin puye
hind fin — stina stiro (86)
belly atta
back agu
Tortoiseshell todi
Frog kang-gu
Crocodile ibara
Lizard, large gang-ura
middle
sized

small indytra

Gudang.

nichulka
araunya
utema

gururu
aporega
wang-go

ki-wrri
tyr
owmer
keake
chara

ropagama

waru

wanawa
kartakutta

murinya
rauntinya

duidytirdko

158
159
160

161
162
163
164
165
166
167
168
169
170

171
172
173
174
175
176

177
178

179
180
181
182
183
184
185

English.

Snake, brown
black
green

Fish

Fin

Tail
Breast
Gills
Shark
Sting-ray
Pelates

Diacope 8 lineata
Scatophagus mul-

tifasciatus
Lethrinus
Parrot-fish
Mullet

Whiting (Silago)

Flathead

Fresh water her-

ring
Toad-fish
Sucking-fish

Crab, blue
small
large
Crayfish
Beetle, small
water

Humble bee

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega.
karomat
piroan

d, FIsues.
wawpl

mabi
pél

beidum

aona

dzaram
tanigi
karmoi
djaga, dyaga
bila

piwer
kopuru (475 ?)

wila

badar (530)
gapu

. Inszcts, &c.

kowturri
gurba
getalli
kayer

Gudang.

kanurra

wachi

wawpi
A

meérta

chana

ananaji
wandi
waki

tora

ubtru

tobu
anbiro

paka

getalla
lang-ganya
orona

néke

boro

285

286

English.

186 Honey*
187 Wax
188 Small wasp
189 Ant hill and ant
190 bronzed
191 small black
192 —— green
193 large red
194 Ant, small, white,

wood
195 Cicada
196 Fly
197

horse (He-
matopoda)

198 Mosquito

199 Butterfly

200 Grubindead wood
201 living wood
202 Louse

203 Scorpion

204 Spider

205 Worm

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega.
ttu
yérka
garur
mugu
dupu (532)
timi
miusu

oka

ari (18)
idi-idi, diwi
enti

kirtur

f. Sues, &c.

206 Cuttle-fish

207 Barnacle on turtle

208 Clamp-shell (7ri-
dacna)

209 Cyrena

210 Oyster

211 Sanguinolaria

212 Fusus proboscidi-

Serus

sug-gu
yetu
miya

akila
ita
tiki
boa

Gudang.
untere
alpanya
elpiri
mong- go

eiptinya
kagida
benje

intére
wampa
birogo

tma, oma
téwinya, tawinya
etimunya

tolo

ako

tamburra

yetu
miya

onti
umpeéda
teki
mabur

* This and the next are made by a small stingless bee which builds its nest

in hollow trees.

APPENDIX. 287

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
213 Melon-shell alopa ang-kowa
214 Murex : ‘ wel6ro
215 Egg cowrie buboam
216 Olive ‘ ; waraji
217 Ear-shell . . tépur
218 Periwinkle, small biidi badi
219 ——_—— large : : yarawira
220 Natica ‘ . modi
221 Auricula Jude : : ngaanbamédi
222 Snail, large ; ; tétuka
223 small : ‘ kéno
224 Coral yammar wardyo-orge

(branched) (massive)
g. VecrTaste Propucrions.
225 Tree (general pre pire
term)

226 Log watur
227 Drift wood béte

228 Touch wood* and kiubi
its charcoal

229 Small stick saragi chéragi

230 Bark purur rang-a

231 Branch mang

232 Leaf nissa etrara

233 Flower kowsur erora

234 Seed kawp

235 Root quiku (433)

236 of grass . : nontya

237 of a tree . : yalida (493 ?)

238 Sea-weed ‘ : tawar

239 (food of du- : ; parada
gong)

240 Mushroom : 3 achari

241 Fern i ‘ ganda

* The charcoal used for painting the body is made from this.

288

242
243
244
245
246

247
248

249

250
251

252

253
254
255
256

257
258

259

260
261
262
263
264

265
266

English.

Grass

coarse
Sugar cane
Bamboo
Calladium
lentum ?

Pandanus spiralis
cluster

of fruit
——— fruit,
singly
kernel

Pandanus pedun-

culata

Seaforthia palm,

large
small
Caryota palm
Rattan
Cabbage palm
(Corypha)
Cocoa nut

escu-

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega.
burda
garu
marapi

bia

gara
bom

abul, abal

abul dan’ (443)
kowsar

lilko
utu

kuchi
muru, moro

uraba

Sago palm of New bisi

Guinea

White lily (Cri- ? gurabi

num)
Banana

Hellenia cerulea*

~

Flag (Philydrum) tagur

Rush

roots)
Sedge

* The root of this is caten raw.

? (with edible

Gudang..

untinya (92)
bagudda

marapi

burwa

quatyerra

akarinya

damaraha
watu (251 ?)

waraba

korobo

katamurra
kéra-kéra
dyaimira
akomba
rewlno

opolga
gwanda

267

268
269
270
271

272
273

274
275

276
277
278

279
280

281

282
283,
284

285
286
287
288
289
290

291 Coraltree (Eryth-

APPENDIX.

English. Kowrarega.
Yam, wild (Dios- dérabu
corea)
fibrous, (do.) kutai
— (do.) dawb
—_.._— (do.) sowar
purple (Con- bizar
volvulus ?)

sagu

—— (Convolvu- tapan
lus ?)

Sweet potato rugabu

Cane (Flagella- buji
ria)

Dracontium

Fig

(with large
edible fruit)

She-oak (Casua- gaibur
rina)

Cotton-tree
(Cochlospermum)

cotton of

Water lily (Vym- ? raémbadi
phea)

Wormia alata

Cashew nut dia
Grevillea
Parinarium

Acacia

Large bean*

wibu

rina

(Bombax) wapada, odes

kalapi, kwlapi

289

Gudang.

worng-ura

pérut

bidya, bodya

epuanoma
atara
“guru

awida
barbara

paotu

wapada
maye
rimbadi, rom-
(hadi
maartitta

léara, liara
yuwurra

elari

garragurra
umpira, umbéra
pinura, penura

* Eaten with “ Biyu,’’—the produce of a vine-like climber with legumes a
foot in length.

VOL. Il.

290 APPENDIX.

English. Kowrarega.

292 Abrus precatorius timikapil

293 Blue pea-flower

294 Mimusops Kaukii ibur

295 Convolvulus (with chawir
edible roots)

296 Vitexmacrophylla

297 Avicennia tomen-

tosa ?
298 Scevolu Kenigit déla
299 Mangrove taga
300 ————— :
301 ———— kdiytr
a biyu
303 Tea-tree (Mela-
leuca)
304 tbu, wobu
305 ————
306
307 Gum-tree (Euca-
lyptus)
308 Apple, red (Fu- kuai
genia)
309 white (Ew- kipa
genia)
310 Cherry (Zugenia)
311 Sciadophyllum
312 Cedar (Cedrela)
313 Vine (Cissus) ;
314 Creeper* wali
315 Heritierat meker
316 Tree passeit

* Used in making one kind of fishing line.

Gudang.

waalkuda
wobar
atiar

ordida
dyang-a

dyara
teang-gunya
korad-da
inchéncheiya
biyu

agura

unera

elembi
adoya, adiya
kéru

apiga, apega
bang-gadi
arondyi
lang-gila

kertim
mangko

+ The leaf of this rolled up into a cylinder is used to distend the hole in the

lobe of the ear.

+ Large tree with very light wood used for making outrigger floats and pad-

dies.

317
318
319
320
321

322
323
324
325

326
327
328
329
330
331
332

333
334
335
336

337
338
339
340
341

* The bark of this is made into large fishing lines.

APPENDIX. 291
English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
Tree : ung-kanya
sira-sira*
kopér baguntinya
Resin yirkat
Barkofwhichdaje maé
is made
Xerotes Banksii walchi noyo, noyu
Tobacco sugiiba choka
Wood, hard 2 used éra
for
soft $spears mang-ga
II. Arrictes or Forricn Oriein,
Tron turika gere
Glass, bottle talpura talpura
Gun tarika tida
Axe aga aga
Clothes dimawk dimawk
Hat . ‘ walapa
Knife gi, gi-turik
III. Urensizs, Ornaments, Weapons, &c.
Canoe gil ang-ganya
Bow baa, biai oimpa
Stern ménir kona
ornaments koikéchtipa
of t
Raised gunwale _ bada (530) bada
Platform tamu tamo
Netting sari chari
Outrigger poles togo togo
float sarmma charima

t Used in fixing the heads and joints of spears and throwing sticks.
t One central and two lateral poles ornamented with streamers and feathers,

u 2

292 APPENDIX.

English. Kowrarega.
342 Outrigger float, sarim’ pati
pegs of
343 Paddle karaba
344 Mast raba
345 Poles of sails, &c. sdru
346 Backstays bazu
347 gromets quéada
on
348 Sail, matofany rab’waku (344)
kind waku
349 Rope, cable uro

350 Stone for anchor yadi

351 Women’s cover- awash
ing

352 Petticoat daje

353 — band of wakaow

354 ————— small mie-daje

355 long arge-daje, tabom
356 Nose-stick guba
357 Round shell orna- mari
ment*
358 Small+ dibi-dibi
359 Necklace of cord- sogér
age
360 reeds

361 Fillet (gen. term) quik’tro (438,349)

362 of mother of
pearl

363 Armlet, bracelet mustrz
(general)

364 narrow

365 broad

366 Leg ornaments{ maka

Gudang.

karaba
mulgdburra
maleéla

abara

chichaltro

taiko
mcri

anchi
karakopo
petu
ungkinya

maiagu
piara

* Of the mother of pearl shell—worn by a string round the neck.

+ The top of a cone ground flat.

} Circular, narrow and twisted—worn round the leg above the calf, from 5

to 30 together.

367

369

370
371

372
373
374

375
376
377
378

379
380
381
382
383

384

385

APPENDIX.
English. Kowrarega.
Anklet dana-kuk’tro
(443, 438,349)
368 Any painting on ménara

the body

Camp, camping miudu

place

Hut laga (44)
Breakwind of maak

bushes, &c.

Basket hi, le

water lilko (252)

Sticks for produ- salgai

cing fire

Oven ammai

Needle (of bone) saka
Thread ketal
Tobacco pipe siguba-marapi

(323, 245)

Fishing line ariga
Fish-hook tudi, todi (152)
Stick for digging pottur

Spear (general) kalaka

plain (for rada

fishing)
—— large, tina

barbed

— 3or4 headed taku

kobai

386 Throwing stick

387
388

389
390
391
392
393
394

Shell handle
Peg at top

Dugong peg
shaft

line

Bow
Arrow
Gauntlet

kobai piti (386
446)

kivir

wap

amu

gueure

térig

kadik

293

Gudang.

eikawa
baalkulka

akomi
rolko
yarte

marapi (245)

néang-gunya
alka (68)
ainti

tona

tako

ekara

atara

ckar’ eye (386,
446)

kadik

+

294

395

396
397
398

399
490
401

» 402

403
404
405
406
407

408
409

410

411

412
413

414
415
416
4l7

APPENDIX.
English. Kowrarega.
Bamboo knife, api
large
small hiapi
Cane loop sringi

Stone-headed bagabogub
club

Drum warip

Grave kaga

Cairn of stones agu

IV. Man, Rexationsuip,

Man, white, ghost markai
black garkai*
——a tarkékai
—— old ke’tarkékai (625
405)

—— young (until kaowquiku (438)
married)

Boy, male child tarkékai kaje
(405, 412)
Woman Ipikai (431)
old ke’Ipikai (625,
408)

young, nerawkai
(until married)

Girl, female child ipikai kaje (408
412)

Child kaje

Infant mugei’ kaje (647,
412)

Son nétir kaje (412)

Grandchild nép

Grandfather bobata
Grandmother kaiéda

Gudang.

wartipa

&e.
amboypu
amma
unbamo

tundamo

ang-gora, ung-
kira

bobata
kaiéda

* From this is derived “ garkaije,’’ =a tribe, or collection of men, women,
and children.

English.

418 Father, (or his
brother)
419

420 ~-——’s sister

421 Mother (or her
sister)

422

423 brother
i aes sister

425
addressing them
426 -———— eldest
427 — second
4238 ——~— third
429 fourth,
or youngest
430 Husband
431 Wife
432 Fatheror mother-
in-law
433 Namesake
434 Sweetheart
435 Friend, associate
436 Term expressing
affection

437

APPENDIX. 295

Kowrarega. Gudang.
baba (addressing epada
him)
tati* (speaking of
him)
rebata
amma (address- atinya
ing her)
apu (speaking of
her)
adoama
barabata (if of aigddinya
one sex) elpowa, intyara
tikéap (if of dif-
ferent sexes)
kakiile
quiquig
dadaig

kutaig+

allai anba
ipi onda
ira

nattam

rugeiga

keimagi

kawki (if male to
female)

kami (if female
to male)

* A father and his brothers are equally represented by this word: dis-
tinctive appellations according to age are indicated by prefixing the adjectives
‘«ke’= great’’ and ‘“‘ muggi’=small’’ to “ tati.’’

+ There may be several of this name at one time, distinguished by ‘ ke’

and muggi.’”’

296

438
439
440
44]
442
443
444
445
446
447

448

449
450
451
452
453
454
455
456

457

458
459
460
461
462
463
464
465

Englisb.

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega.

Gudang.

V. Parts or Human Bopy, &c.

Head

—— fore

—— top of
—— back of
Temples

Eye

— lashes

— brow

Nose, bill of bird
Nostrils

Hole in septum

Mouth

Lips

Tongue

Teeth

Cheek

Chin, lower jaws

Ear

— holes in mar-
gin*

— pendulous por-
tion

Throat

Neck

Shoulder

Armpit

Upper arm

Elbow

Fore arm, wrist

Hand, finger

quiku

para

? quai

quateya

daka

dana

samudana

beibassam

piti

ngtrsaka, karabu
(55)

piti-tarte
817)

gida

ira-gida

nai, nei

danga

baga

ibu

kowra (46)

kowra tarte (46,
817)

miti

(446,

karta
midi
dzogo
narang-i
? idu
kadtilo
tidu
géta

pada
epinya

aintra

dana

chamudana

eméri

eye

eye’pandya (446,
817)

angka

angka

untara

ampo, ampu

baga

ebu

ewunya, ewonya

ewinya’ pandya
(455, 817)

nanu

yuro

wondo, wontu
amunya, amonya
énta, enda
yurtu

térapi

arta

* Minute holes all round the margin of the ear, into which short pieces of
stick, grass, &c. are stuck.

466

467
468
469

470
471
472

473
474
475
476
477
478
479
480
481
482
483
484
485
486

487
488
489
490

491
492

493

APPENDIX.
English. Kowrarega.
Hand, back kal
palm wier
Thumb kaba-géta
Nails (of fingers tara
or toes) & claws
of bird
Chest j
Breasts sisu
Nipple stisu nar (471)
Milk ikai
Belly maita
Navel kupar
Back, ee al kibu
—— lower part
Hip ktpa
Thigh kapi

Popliteal space
Knee

Leg, ankle
—— calf

Shin bone
Foot, toes

—— upper part

— sole
Heel
Toes

Great toe

Beard
Moustache

Hair of head

kilu, kolu
tirra, ngar
bru-madu (508)
bru-rida (507)
kiku

saan
pokoko

kev’ kiku (625,
485)

yéta

gida magéda
(449)

yal

297
Gudang.
art’ onto
476)
art’apa (465,477)

(465,

tétur

rondura

yong-o

yong’ ampo (471,
452)

kopurra
onto
apa
openya
etena
ilkanya
eng-go
utronya

oquarra

oquar’ onto (485,
476)

oquar’ apa (485,
477)

omo

dyuro

yéta
yéta

odye

298

494
495

English.
Hair of body
groin

496 Anus

497
498
499
500
501
502
503
504

505
506

507
508
509
510
511
512
513
514
515
516
517

518

519
520
521
522
523
524

Penis

Scrotum
Testicles
Pudendum

Skin

Cicatrices

—— on shoulder
horned, on
breast

straight do.

—— on belly

Bone
Flesh

Fat

Vein
Blood
Heart
Liver
Stomach
Intestines
Brain

Skull
Spine

Collar bone
Lungs
Saliva
Tears
Perspiration
Dung

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega.
magéda
Ini

kaktru
mada
pwra
us

sadéo

rida

madu
1di-idi
kerer
kilka
nganakapo
sibu

wéra

aktr

garu rida (244,
507)

kalum rida (507)

saaka (55)

mawcha

nidi

murrag

Gudang.
ang-a
nadula
opinya
achanya
untonya,ngtonya
achina
mon-na
equora
girl
kaimai
chedow

rondro gifiri (470,
502)

kopur gari (475,
502)

atira

egondi

bujer

kérur

etydanya

epa

elpe

trta

pad’ atira (438,
507)

kanulu
chaka
agal

on-na

APPENDIX. 299

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
525 Urine 3 . ombo
526 Abscess, boil gaima oro
527 Pus bagar
528 Snot, white of an nurse

ess
529 Blister apu (43) kodje
530 Sore bada (337) unti, anti
531 Bunions in old kowrita

people
532 Ague dipu (190)
533 Toothache dangakikire(452,

635)

VI.—Pronovuns.

534 I, me ngatu*¥ ngai eipana, yiba
535 Thou, thee ngidu ng! untoba, doba
536 He, him nidu niie

537 She, her nadu na

538 We two, us two albei

539 We, us ari aku

540 You two ugipél (593)

541 You ngi-tana

542 They two pale

543 They tana inyaba

544 Me, my anat

545 For myself ngai-aikéka

546 For himself nw’abépa

* These two sets of personal pronouns are not used indiscriminately, but
the examples of their use which I collected are too few to generalize upon,
However, ‘‘ ngatu’’ and the three next under it, appear to be used only with
a certain class of verbs of which an example is afforded by the sentence
‘‘ngatu nudu matumina=I struck him ;’’ and the use of the second set of
these pronouns is illustrated by ‘‘ ngai nue’’ (not ngatu nudu) mulem’, &c.=
I told him,” &c.

+ Ido not understand the exact meaning of this and the two next, so give
an example of each; ‘‘ ana gamu lupeipa=my body is shaking (or I have the
ague:) aikeka mule=tell me: nu’abepa chena wir=give that to him.”

300
English.

547 For ourselves
548 For themselves

549 Who?

550 Whose?

551 What?

552 What? which?

553 This

554 This, these

555 That, those

556 Let us two, shall
we two?

Let us, shall we ?

Mine

557
558

559
560
561
562
563
564
565
566

Thine

His

Her

Our (dual)
—— (dual)
(plural)
Your (dual)
—— (plural)

567
568

Their (dual)
—— (plural)

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega. Gudang.

albi nipa,
nipa

pale nipa,
nipa

ngadu, nga

nganu

eimi

mida

ma

nabing

chéna

aba*

arri

tane

noba

alpat

ngow (if a male)

tdzu (if a fem.)

yinu

ninte

nant

abane (566)+

albeine (538)§

arrien

ngipeine (540)

ngitanaman (541)
(568)

palaman (542)

tanaman (543)

* Ex. ‘aba nudu gasumeipa=let us two seize him.”
+ Ex. ‘‘alpa pongeipa ?==shall we sail ?”’

+ Includes the person addressed: the mother speaking to the father of

their child would say “‘ abane kaje=our child.”’

§ Excludes the person addressed : in answer to ‘‘kaje chena ngipeine ?—=
is that your child?’ the father or mother, both being present, and one pointing
to the other, would say to a third person, ‘‘ albeine kaje=the child is ours.”

These forms are Polynesian also as I have since found recorded.

APPENDIX. 301

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.

VI.—NvMERALs.

569 One waraptine (580) epidmana
570 Two quassur elabaiu
571 Three uquassur - wara- dama*
pune
572 Four uquassur - uquas-
sur
573 Five uq.-ugq.-warapine
574 Six uq.-war.-uq.-war.
575 Seven ug.-war.uq.- war.
war.
576 Hight uquassur or ipel

uquassur —re-
peated 4 times

VIII.—Apsectives.t+
577 Afraid akan
578 Alive danaleg (443, anading
804)
579 All, the whole muro
580 Another wara (569) inyana
581 Ashamed ajiran (823)

* After careful investigation I am inclined to think that the Gudang blacks
have no words to express definite numbers beyond ‘‘three.”’ ‘ Dama’’ is
generally used for higher numbers, and occasionally ‘‘ unora.’’

+ The formation of many adjectives can be clearly traced : in fact, one of the
most obvious features of the language—imperfectly as it is understood—is the
facility with which many nouns may be converted into either adjectives or
verbs. Thus, ‘‘ mapei=a bite,’’ becomes ‘‘ mapeile=capable of biting,’’ and
is the root of the verb ‘‘ mapeipa=to bite.’’ The positive adjunct “‘leg,’’ and
its negative ‘‘ aige’’ (802, 803), are also used to convert nouns into adjectives :
the former follows the same rules as those before given for forming the plural :
—‘‘ gizu=sharpness,’’ becomes either ‘‘ gizule=sharp,”’ or ‘‘ gizuge—blunt,”’
literally, ‘‘ sharpness possessing, or, possessing not :’’ from ‘‘ nuki=water,’’
we get the form ‘‘ nukile maram=the well contains water,”’ or, “ nukegi ma-
yram=the well is dry :’’ ‘‘ danagi—blind,”’ literally means, ‘‘eye possessing
not :’’ as a further example, I may give, “‘ipikai ajirge wap’ ina badale mapeip
=the shameless woman eats this sore-producing fish.’’

302

582
583
584
585
586
587
588

589

590
591

592
593
594

595
596
597
598
599

600
601
602
603
604

605
606

607
608

English.
Bad, ugly
—— smelling
— tasted
Bald
Bent
Bitter
Black

Blind

Bloody
Blunt

Boiling
Both
Blue

Cold
Cooked
Cylindrical
Dead

Deaf

Dirty
Drowned
Dry, dried up
Dumb

Faced, pretty

— ugly
Female

First
Flat

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega.

wate

wate gantle(826)

wate mitale (827)

guéle

balbai

téra

kébi-ktbi thung
(228, 629)

danagi (443,804)
béagi (when ad-
dressing one
blind

kulkale (511)

digung, gizige
(824)

zorana

Ipal, 1pél

mal-tha gamile
(29)

simai

giung (641, 629)

sam (125)

uma

wate kowrare
(582, 455)

timitalle (812)

sartipa

watang

keigalein

kape partire(612,
439)

wate partre (582,
439)

madale (500)

kal

attang

etora, etolma

APPENDIX. 303

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
609 Flooded bidaman ankgera
610 Forbidden,as food adzar
611 Furious, vindic- kerketale (806)

tive

612 Good, pretty kape
613 perfect min-na
614 Gorged kekédi mirko
615 Greedy ubile (816)
616 Green* nis-thung (232,

629)
617 Grey, any light miakula

tint

618 Half, part of tapi
619 Heavy maptle (828)
620 Hollow muile (685)
621 How many? mida kubi (694)
622 Hungry weragi (514) awora, awtira
623 Itchy gamuji (807?)
624 Lame wate ngarare

(582, 482)
625 Large, very keingat intonya
626 Last wagél (22)
627 Left kida etamuna
628 Light tirong

629 Like, the same as thungt
630 Long, high, tall kdulalle, kotalle

* There are two forms of each adjective denoting colour, except grey and
white. Thus, “ black’’ is rendered either ‘‘ kubi-kubi thung,’’ or, ‘ kubi-
kubi tha gamule,’”’ both meaning ‘like,’ or, ‘the colour of’”’ the charcoal
procured from ‘‘ kubi-kubi=touchwood.’”’ “ Blue, green, and red,’’ are de-
noted by compounds signifying resemblance to ‘‘ deep water, a leaf, and blood,”’
respectively.

+ Generally used in its contracted form, as “ ke’’ or ‘‘kei:” it is also
employed as a prefix to denote the superlative degree: thus, “ ke’ kamanale=
very warm,’’

t Asan example of one of the modes of using this, I find, ‘‘ gariga thung—
like the sun, or, as bright as if daylight.’’

304

631
632
633
634
635
636
637
638
639

640
641
642

643
644
645
646
647

648
649
650
651

652
653

654

655

English.
Male
Many, plenty
Noisy
New, little used
Painful
Pregnant
Putrid
Quiet
Red

Right

Ripe

Rotten, full of
holes

Sharp

Short, low

Sick

Silent

Small, a few, apor-
tion of

Soft, spongy,
swampy

Sore-producing

Sorry

Sour

Stony

Sweet-smelling

Sweet-tasted

Thirsty

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega. Gudang.

inile (497)
putage, kubi
nurile (822)
kaining
kikire
maitaleg (474) nétari
utzai
nurage (822,804)
kilk-thung (511,

629)
mina métagoma
gi

opera

gizile (824, 802) ung-garung-gare
tawpel

soka, sali *

arage +

muggingh embowa

pirung

badalle(530, 802)

watékum

terari

kulalle (54, 802)

kape gantle(612,
826)

gru tha mitalle
(244, 827)

nuk’ énei (38)

* These two words appear to have the same meaning, but are used differ-
ently : ‘‘ sok’ atchin=sali mizzi,” and both express ‘‘ having been sick.”
t ‘‘ Arage atzir—=become silent—hold your tongue.”

yor

APPENDIX. 305

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
656 Unable karaweg
657 Unripe, uncooked kobaris
658 Wanton danule
659 Warm kamanalle imandinya
660 Wet uleig, urge
661 White dru
662 Withered raji
663 Worn, old from kilbang

use

IX. Apverss, &c.

664 Now,immediately kaibu
665 Presently,by-and- tima-tima

bye
666 To-morrow batteingh achinya
667 Two or three days bang-al ayere
hence
668 A week (or so) mata bang-al
hence (675)
669 Yesterday ngtil
670 Two or three days kul narama
ago

671 A week (or so) ago mata kil (675)
672 A long time ago korrékida*
673 Quickly tari
674 Slowly tarégi (674, 804)
675 Constantly, al- matat

ways, only, still

676 Morning muggy’ batteingh
677 About noon kei gariga(625,2)
678 Afternoon kat
679 Hereabouts karéki
* Also denotes duration of time, and is = ‘‘ for a long time ;”* it may also

be used as an adjective, as, “ korrekida gul ina=this is a very old canoe.”’
+ Expresses a continuance of the action: ‘‘gul mata pongeipa=the canoe
is still under sail.’’

VOL. II. x

306 APPENDIX.

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
680 Here ma*
681 There chéna+

682 Above, upwards nakareipa
683 Below,downwards mahipa (29)
684 (a very long kara mahipa

way)

685 Inside miiye

686 Thus,in thisman- kéda kéda
ner

687 A long way off api taig

688 Near, close to logi

689 Again laka

690 Completely, into palge
pieces, &c.

691 Well, much, &c. purke

692 Where? anaga
693 Why? mipa
694 How, in what mida
manner ?
695 Yes wa, ua Ja
696 No long-a, gitre untamo
697 Don’t wan-nur, { maige (804)

698 Stop! enough! china

699 Exclamation of ka! ka! ka!
surprise

700 Exclamation to qualli! qualli!
arrest attention (=I say!)

701 Exclamation of igur (= poor
pity thing ')

702 And § ia

* + Both are also pronouns: perhaps, when translated as adverbs, the term
equivalent to place is omitted, rendering ‘‘ ina—(in) this (place)’’ and ‘‘ chena
==(in) that (place.)”’

+ I suspect, from the termination, that this is the present tense of the im-
perative mood of some verb=“‘ to do, to perform,”’ &c.

§ Ex. ‘“‘uleip’ Aburdia, Salallaia, Wagelia, Mania—Aburde and Salalle and
Wagel and Manu are approaching.’’

APPENDIX. 307

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
X.—VERBS.*
703 Word implying ngapat
motion

* After tabulating 100 Kowrarega verbs in all the different forms in which
they had occurred to me, I yet failed in arriving at a knowledge of their
mode of formation, owing to the deficiency of data on one hand, and the pre-
sence of some apparently defective and irregular verbs on the other. Still
some of the results are worth recording. Leaving out the consideration of the
irregular verbs, I can speak with certainty of only two Moods, the Indicative
and the Subjunctive, of the Present and the Past (probably really further di-
visible) Tenses of the former, and the Present of the latter. As an example I
may give the verb ‘to strike,’’ of which the root is assumed to be ‘‘ matum
=a stroke.””

Indicative Present nudu ngatu matumeipa=I am striking him.

35 Perfect ra i matumina=I struck him.
re Future ¥ Aa matumeipakai=I shall strike him.
Imperative Present », ngidu matumur=strike him.

Assuming a root to each, I find 94 of the verbs under examination to agree
in having the present tense of the indicative terminating in pa: of these 70
end in aipa, 14 in ipa, 6 in epa, and J in aipa.

The perfect tense (setting aside some inexplicable irregularities) exhibits a
great variety of terminations for the formation of which no rule can yet be
given: these are an, ana, ani; in, ina, ima; em, ema; eima, eiun; and un.

The future tense alone is perfectly regular; it is simply formed by adding
kai to the present.

The present tense of the imperative mood in those verbs having the present
of the indicative ending in 7pa terminates (with one exception in i,) in ir: in

+ This is a word which from the variety of its modes of application long
puzzled me. Careful examination of sentences in which it occurred led to
the following results. Ist. It may be used as an independent word to denote
motion towards the speaker, the pronoun which would otherwise be required
being omitted. Ex.—‘‘ adur=go out,”’ but ‘‘ngap’ adur=come out (towards
the speaker),’’ “ lak’ ngapa=to come again, to return.’’ 2nd. It is also used
as a postfix to denote motion towards the object to which it is joined. Ex.—
“Jaga’ p’(ngapa) aiyewel=come to the hut,’’ ‘‘ mue’ pa teir=throw it into
the fire.’’ 3rd. It is used ina third sense. Ex.—‘‘ wawpi ’pa=to go fish-
ing,’ ‘‘kaba ’pa=to go to adance.’’ 4th. It is often used as an equivalent
to “ give me,”’ the hand being held out at the same time. Ex.—‘‘ngapa=let
it come to me.”

“2

308 APPENDIX.

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
704 Bail salpimeipa
705 Be affected with ameipa*
706 Become atzipa
707 Bite mapeipa
708 Bore a hole tartepaleipa(817,
722)
709 Break (as a stick) tideipa aterumbanya
710 wind back- ‘ : penyaka
wards

711 Build (asa hut) wmideipa (369?)

the others the terminations of this tense are ur (the most frequent) ; ar, (the
next in order of frequency) ara, ari; ada, eada; e, eio, eir, erur; and o.
After all I am inclined to suppose that the Kowrarega verb, although ap-
parently complicated, is of simple construction ; and that its various modifica-
tions are caused by the mere addition to its root of various particles, the exact
meaning of which (with one exception,) is yet unknown. That exception is
the particle aige or ge, (804) the mode of employment of which is shewn by
the following examples :— 5
Wawp’ yinu ngai purteipaige—I am not eating your fish.
+8 > 99 purteiunaige—I did not eat your fish.
33 4) 9) purteipakaige—J shall not eat your fish.
», anu ngi purtaige=Don’t eat his fish.
A few examples may be given in illustration of the preceding remarks.

English. Present. Past. Future. Imperative.

Eat purteipa purteiun purtelpakai | purtar

Bite mapeipa mapana mapeipakai mapur
‘lake away | meipa mani meipakai mari

Tell mulepa mulem mulepakai muleada
Lie down yuneipa yunum yuneipakai yunur
Leave behind | yuneipa yunem yuneipakai yunur
Shoot uteipa utun uteipakai utur

Enter uteipa utema uteipakai uterur

* Apparently a contraction of ‘ana’? and “meipa.” Ex.—“ana kobaki
ameipa’’=(literally) me cough affects, or I havea cough.” The word “ mizzi,””
the exact meaning of which is unknown to me, is also used to express the
same thing. Ex.—‘¢ quiku kikire ana mizzi=I have a sick head, or a head-
ache.”

APPENDIX. 309

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
712 Bury, plant, sow maramateipa(40,
791)
713 Call for tureipa tntandurra
714 Carry, hold ang-eipa
715 Choose, select yapépa
716 Climb waleipa oquagamurra
>£717 Come here pateipa, aiyewél
718 Come, approach dleipa impebino
719 Cook gia paleipa (641?)
720 Copulate lameipa eroriinya
721 Cover over abeipa
722 Crush,poundwith paleipa akélgurra
a stone
723 Cry, howl like a maierchipa rong-gung-ga-
dog murra
724 Cut labaipa atédung-gurra
725 Dance kaba mineipa unchigulkamurra
(811)
- 726 Die dadeipa
727 Dig pideipa
728 Dive penneipa
729 Dream piki — lalkeipa*
(813, 755)
730 Drink wanipa ung-gén-ga
731 Drown deliipeipa
732 Dry up wata’ pateipa
(602)
733 Eat purteipa, pratipa atédurra
734 Enter (going out tteipa
of sight)
735 Fall down pudeipa
736 Fill (with solids) wangépa
737 —— (with fluids) maleipa (29)
* The pronoun “ ana”’ is always used with this. Ex.—‘ ana piki lalkar

=I had a dream.”’

758

759
760

English.
Find
Finish (men’s
work)

(women’s
work)

Feeces, to void

Forget

Get up

Give

Go away

Go out, perforate

(as a fire)

Hear, understand

Hide, conceal

Jump, leap,
Kick

Kill

Laugh

Leave behind

Lie

Tie down

Make (men’s
work)

(women’s
work)
— a fire

Paddle

APPENDIX.

Kowrarega. Gudang.
Tmeipa angkanya
min’ atzipa (613,

706)
palpagipa

‘ ‘ anabiching-ar
kekochipa
winipa amamung-i
pibeipa, wiépa* tera
adzaripa einpira

adeipa
utsimeipa
krangipa
muye teipa (685,

791)
katapulgipa ralkagamurra
kaktina mapeipa
(485, 707)

dadeima mata-

meipa (598, 786)
gi waleipa (819) ung-garung-gari
yuneipa
lalkeipa (820)
yuneipa
tatureipa

vimeipa
muekémeipa

karaba tapeipa untyéndyurra
(343, 787)

* Ana’? is used with ‘‘ pibeipa’’ only ; the exact meaning of both is “to
bestow, or cause the transfer of ownership ;’’ the actual handing over of any
thing would be asked for by ‘‘ ngapa=let it come here,’’ holding out the hand
at the same time, but this last may presume merely inspection or temporary
use of the article.

APPENDIX. 311

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.

761 Pull, drag yuteipa
762 Rain ari piideipa (18,

735)
763 Return mang-epa
764 Rise (asthe sun) daneipa
765 Run* : : ringa
766 Sail pong-eipa reng-gamurra
767 Scold ideipa inyamung-urra
768 Scrape handst = gétapfideipa(465,

735)

769 Scratch, pinch _misiteipa
770 See, look after, yaweipa

watch
771 Sew tarpeipa bélkagur
772 Shake lapeipa
773 Sharpen gizu paleipa (824,
722)
774 Shave piniteipa angkarung-gurra
(449, 450)
775 Shoot (with gun iteipa
or bow)
776 Scize, press, gasumeipa gipaburra
squeeze
777 ‘Sing sagil piyépa
(818)
778 Sleep até-ipa (825) eremadin
779 Smoke suguba wanipa
(323, 730)
780 Sit down tandreipa éngka
781 Speak, tell mulépa ekalkamurra

* In Kowrarega, the action of running is expressed by the adverb ‘* tari =
quickly,’’ and the verb “ uleipa = to approach :’’ Ex. “ ngapa tari uleipa’”’ ex-
presses quick motion towards the speaker, and ‘ tari uleipa’’ quick motion
Jrom the speaker.

+ A mode of salutation practised throughout Torres Strait, and occasionally
at Cape York.

312 APPENDIX.

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.
782 Spear, sting pageipa
783 Stand kadi (irregular)
784 Stand up kadi tantre (783)
785 Steal krameipa
786 Strike matumeipa untondainya
787 Swim tapeipa rolma, rilma
788 Take away meipa
789 Tear ladeipa
790 Thirst nikineipa (655)
791 Throw into teIpa umpanya
792 Tie kanumeipa
793 Touch tareipa abéang-gang-
wra
794 Turn over tarteipa
795 Unloose, untie ideipa
796 Waken wélmeipa
797 Wash garwulgeipa
798 Water, make ing-uje (irregular)
799 Wound tmaliza matu-
meipa (598,786)
800 Wrap round, coil, nireipa
twist

XI.—MiIscEeLLaNneEous.

801 Affix expressing dza*
article spoken of

802 —— possession legt

eae

* Ex. ‘ Nabi’dza = this thing.”

+ “ Leg” or “ le,’’ is to be possessed of, and, when used independently, is
placed after the noun which it refers to : “‘ngai ’quassur daje leg = have two
petticoats ;’’ ‘‘ ngi kutai leg ? == have you (any) yams?’’

¢ The meaning of this is to a certain extent doubtful ; however it enforces
an affirmation: Ex. “ ina muggi’ ki=this is very little :’’ it is frequently
used after pronouns: Ex. ‘‘ arri ki kabapakai = we shall go to the dance.”

APPENDIX. 313

English. Kowrarega. Gudang.

804 Affix of negation aige*

805 Any small article zapu (fish-hook,
&e.)

806 Anger, rage kérkét

807 Body of any crea- gamu

ture

808 Cold stmein ekanba (? to
shiver)

809 Cough kobaki algéne

810 Crack pis

811 Dance kaba

812 Dirt timit

813 Dream piki

814 Dust in the eye : lopicha

815 Food aidut

816 Greediness abi

817 Hole tarte apandya

818 Joke sagil

819 Laughter gi (641)

820 Lie lalkai

821 Name nél

822 Noise nar

823 Shame ajir

824 Sharpness gizu

825 Sleep ute

826 Smell ganu

827 Taste mita

828 Weight mapu

* Being the negative of “‘leg,’’ or “le,’’ as formerly stated, ‘ aige,” or
‘“ge’’=to have not: Ex. ‘‘ngai kalak’ aige =I have no spears;’ ‘‘ nga
ajir’ge = she has no shame.”

+ As examples of various forms of this word, I may give, ‘ana pibur
aidu= give me (some) food:’’ “ina aio? = is this eatable?” “ai=it is
eatable.”’

314 APPENDIX.

XII.—Names or PERsons.

English. Kowrarega.

Males, No.
Manu

Wagel (626)

1

2

3

4 Salalle

5 Borito

6 Gabiia
Females, No. 1

2 Seibai

3 Yéza

Piaquai

Aburde

Gudang.
Paida
Tamagigu
Waga
Kon
Chamida (444)
Paroma
Mamulla
Ganulle
Baki

Native Names or Praces rn Torres STRAIT AND
NEIGHBOURHOOD oF CaPE YORK.

Mount Adolphus Island
Hill
Small island to northward

Morilaga
Begunkutche
Quiquichaga

Island N.W.from MountAdolphus, larger Wagilwane

Rock S.E. from do.
Rock ce a”

The Brothers
North Brother
Albany Island

north pomt
Bush Island

Tree Island

N.E. Point of Albany Island
Albany Rock

islet E. by 8.
S.E.
York Island (Cape York)
Eborac Island

Mount Bremer

Evans Point

smaller Bidye

Akoine
Kolapitchum
Kiérobi
Tarakar
Pabaju
Tarung-i
Marte
Moébamunne
Tolodinya
Manurre
Takunya
Eikoa
Wamilag
Dyara
Charua

Maodinya

APPENDIX,
Sextant Rock
Beach at Evans Bay
Bramble Hill
S.E. poimt of Evans Bay
Ida Island

Beach E. from Mew River
hill behind

Bishop Point

Osnaburg Point

Beach W. from Cape York
Islet W. by 8.

Peak Point

Possession Island

Woody Island, larger
smaller
Entrance Island

islet to N.W.
W.S.W.
Islet on E. side of Port Lihou
Islet off Port Lihou
W. Prince of Wales Island
Cape Cornwall and neighbourhood
Beach on W. side of Port Lihou
Creek opposite Pipa and vicinity
Beach on N.E. side of Muralug
Thursday Island
Black Rock
Green Island
Goode Island
rocks on reef near this
Hammond Island

Rock
Friday Island
E. Prince of Wales Island
Horned Hill
Wednesday Island
Strait Island, larger

Délua
Podaga
Deiyemil-pada
Chechtri
Robimo
Paiera
Pochinya
Qualulga
Kalalurri
Eintrang-o
Purang-i
Karubowra
Bédanug
Kei’ Yellubi
Mugg’ Yellubi
Jana
Cheruko
Pipa
Tarilug
Dumaralug
Muralug
Morurpure
Daiika

Yét

Marin
Gealug
Gromanalug
Piwer
Peilalug
Ipile

Keiriri

Adi
Weibéne
Narupai
Dytigubai
Mowrwra
Kei Kadulug

316 APPENDIX.

Strait Island, smaller
Travers Island

Double Island

Mount Ernest
—_—_———— islet next this
Pole Island

Burke Island

Banks Island, high portion
low

Mulgrave Island
Hawkesbury Island

Tobin, or North Possession Island
Sue Island

Murray Island, largest
middle
smallest

Darnley Island

Nepean Island

Stephens Island

Campbell Island

Dalrymple Island

Keats Island

York Island, larger

— smaller

Bourke Isles, westernmost
northernmost

Muggi Kidulug
Miikunaba
Nellgi
Nagir
Pinakar
Getullai
Suaraji
Miia

Ita
Badu
Warara
Kialbi
Waraber
Mér
Dowar
Warer
Errib
Eddugor
Ugar
Zapkér
Dzamad
Umagur
Massid
Kiidala
Owrld
Purem

No. II.

COMPARATIVE VOCABULARY

OF

THREE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE SOUTH-EAST COAST OF
NEW GUINEA AND THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO.

Tur materials composing the following Vocabulary are
arranged in three columns, according to the localities
where they were obtained.

I. Redscar Bay (on the S.E. coast of New Guinea, in
lat. 9°17’ S. and long. 146° 53’ E.), and its neighbourhood.

II. Brumer Island (on the S.E. coast of New Guinea,
in lat. 10° 45’ S. and long. 150° 22’ E.), and its neigh-
bourhood; also Dufaure Island (about 40 miles to the
westward). When the same word was given at both these
places, I have indicated this circumstance by the letter 6
placed after the word; those procured at Dufaure Island
only are marked by the letter D.

III. Brierly Island (Louisiade Archipelago, in lat. 11°
20’ S. and long. 153° 9’ E.); also a few words, distin-
guished by the letter D, procured at the Duchateau Isles
from natives of some neighbouring islands of the Calvados
Group.

318

English.

Sky

Sun

Cloud
Moon
Wind
Salt-water
Surf
Fresh-water
Sand
Earth
Stone, rock
Cliff
Quartz
Obsidian
Fire

Tail (of a dog)
Dog
Pig

Opossum (Cuscus)

Bird
Wing
Bill
Feather
Hornbill

APPENDIX.

Redscar Bay. Brumer Islands.

I. Narurat Oxgsects.

. garewa
mahana (5)
budi-budi

nowarai

diina*
arita (0)
b bagodu
ranu goila (b)
gera-gera
: . . batan
nati weu, veu (5)
. : . padi-padi
karitao
nabuka (6)
kaiwa (0)

dawara,davara

lahi, rahi
a. Mammalia.

; . derena

sisia wanuhe, daiasi
tuana,bawa(D) bobo

buroma
mowra, bowra

b. Birds.

mabena, pepena
esuna,kawana

iduar
pawporo

daguri

Louisiade.

buru-buru
paral, parei

wiego
soga

wawei (D)
kera-kera

pak

hiwo

gelwo

maan

s§ao-sa

* Since reading Dr. Latham’s remarks, J am inclined to suppose that in this voca-
bulary the common termination za is often no part of the word, but merely a contraction

of the relative pronoun = this (is).

APPENDIX. 319

English. Redscar Bay. Brumer Islands. Louisiade.
White cockatoo _karai rorowa
Nicobar pigeon , : . korauto
Cassowary : : . tyuaburo
Noddy ‘ : . maga

c. Reptiles.

Green turtle matabudi wawnu
Eggs momo
Shell nakeme
Hind flipper al
Tortoise-shell kipore, gebore koma-koma
Large lizard : i . makara
Water-snake ‘ ‘ . mata
d. Fishes.
Fish : ; . yama yeimai
Bone . . . . . bebai
Fry of a Caranz ‘ F F ; ‘ . muwota
Mailed-perch : ‘ . beirawa

e. Insects, Sc.

Sand-crab(Ocypoda) . ; . gagaruki

Small crab (Grapsus, . ; . karagi wallo-quallo
Sc)

Fly 3 : . wuro-uro

Butterfly 2 : . bebi bebi (=moth)

f. Shells, Se.

Cuttle-fish bone . ‘ ‘ : : . wWeilnaga

Nautilus : : . Wwere-werigwa

Far-shell 3 : . woka-woka

Snail F . . Tou-nu

Scarabus ; . . wadiwa

320

APPENDIX.
English. Redscar Bay. Brumer Islands.
Small cowrie
white mawto
Egg-cowrie lokol dunari (0), du-
nai
Cyprea Mauritiana guna
Arca
Cyrena keva kiwai
Cockle é . F
Donax : bogadob (D)
Pearl-oyster meili kepo, immaro
Barnacle F j
Coral puduri, buduri
g.— Vegetable Productions.
Wood au kaiwa
Charcoal, black uma dum
paint
Leaf
Grass yawa-yawada
Sea-weed.
Tree madyu
Scented-herb mura-mura mura (b), ka-
mura
Yellow-flowered
plant
Erythrina Indica yowra
Casuarina
Mangrove P 5
Cocoa-nut and niu niu (bd)
tree
Pandanus duya

Louisiade.

dinga-dinga

du-ong-a

emoyamo
kasepin

kepo

tuwaraga

sangoken =
branched

hiwo

taiyu = yam

leaf
wirmwir
baan

tao-ta

dai
tu-onga
pogia, niu (D)

elegeli

English.

Areca-nut
Banana

Bread-fruit
Calladium escu-
lentum ?

Yam

Nodulated tuber

Small yam-lke
tuber

Betel pepper

Mango
Yellow plum
Fig
Sugar-cane
Ginger
Amaranth
Flax

APPENDIX.

Redscar Bay.

ani

walwal

Brumer Islands.
beda (8)
kassaig, betu

and beta (D)
kunune
abaiya

quateya
nare

gugu, rugu =
fruit, peipai =
leaf (D)

gishoa
baowyobi
baware

garu

monewa

popori

yimone, taoe (D)

IIl.—Anrticies or Foreign Oricin.

Iron
Clothing

ropo-ropo (3)
quama

321
Louisiade.

ereka
pai-pai (D)

plya = plant,
poya = tuber,
pihia (D)
daha

saiwe

mon-mon (D)

kellumai

TII.—Utensirs, Ornaments, Weapons, Xe.

Catamaran
lashing

Canoe

Bow

Figure-head

VOL. II.

wanagi

kura-kuro

daow, raow
owisu
waga (b)

waga
hebagi

tabura

322 APPENDIX.

English. Redscar Bay.
End-board
Stern tarelya
Sides

Outrigger float § darima
Diagonal supports.
Outrigger poles _ilava

Lashing of poles
Pole along gun- eiwara

wale
Platform

Mast alwar (= masts)

Poles supporting

mast
Sticks across sail :
Sail geda
Rope (of bark) panaow

Streamers of pan-
danus leaf

Paddle hawte, hawta

Bailer, wooden dihu
shell

Hut mahuta
Posts

Shelves on posts

Wooden pillow

Brumer Islands. Louisiade.
baragai, bara-
gaiwi (D)
waga-pakena
badai, badaha
(D)
sarima (D) sama
tuturi (D) patuma
sai-ira, and maga, hemaga
saeya (D) (D)

mamadi (D)_ wari (plain)
(twisted)

pizi-piritele
mamarang
tuowo, towa
(D)
: : . pokiwi
doro badiara, tun
(D)

barrai, barawara baiawa
(D)
kevara

wosi, reha (D) patoma and

lewa (D)
aruma
heko= ? melon
shell (D)
maia yuma
; kawkola
gaga-gila

_— (D)

APPENDIX. 323

English. Redscar Bay.
Earthen pot uro
saucer nau
Netted bag vaina
Basket, round
small
Petticoat erua

Breech-cloth, mat
Cloth of bark
Girdle, common

cloth)
rattan

Comb tuari
Nose-stick mukora
Ear-ring
Plug in lobe of ear
Queue ;
Armlet, woven kaana

shell, solid

of 3

pieces

rattan

Breast ornament kawko
No. 1

———., No. 2

Necklace of small
seeds

kolyu

of black

seeds

of dog’s
teeth

of tecth
and seeds

siehi (of tapa

Brumer Islands. Louisiade.

gudawa uya

hiwa

kira-kira (6)

: F nabo
noge (0d)

daam

watu
turi-turi, toru

barikue, ue (D)
suari (5) sugo
wanipa
kuratana (6) puritana
beya batiwan
doyo

sia-sia, hari-

mani (bd)

akassi

bubusi-yana

hiwe = Tro.
chus niloticus

popo (6)

wewessi

digo-digota
ganogar, gudu-
gudu ())

gugadoi

moka-moka

324

English. Redscar Bay.

Paint, black

— red pai-ira

Lime for betel-
chewing

Spatula

Bamboo knife katiwa

Stone-headed axe

Fish-hook

Seine

Floats

Wooden sword

Snout of saw-fish
Shield

Club, wooden ,
stone-headed kahi
Spear of any kind iyu
fishing

plain

polished
sword-pointed
bamboo

Bow pewa
Arrow diba
Drum

Conch

Pandean pipes
Musical reed

APPENDIX.

Brumer Islands. Louisiade,
garoka, garoa
sabe
harigyu (8) hawi
gahi giang
kiram (also kelam*
green jade)
aowrl (5)
nine, tine puakan
uyawa kuoto
kerepa (6) kirapa
gari-gari
rigoane
putu-putu
hari
hemera
wawmerri wama,manutu
arahia
didib (??=bam-

, boo
baiatu, boyatu(D)
wage (Cassis or

Triton)

wererrl
bogigi

* Also the stone which heads it—probably the origin of kelumai, understood to mean

iron, or any iron implement, as an axe.

English.

Man

Woman

Father

Mother

Brother

Sister

Son

Child, boy

Friend,
brother

Head
Forehead
Top of head
Back of head
Temples
Kye
Eyelashes

Eyebrow
Nose

Nostril
Mouth
Lips

Tongue

Teeth

adopted

APPENDIX.

Redscar Bay.

tau
ahine
? tama

? natu
mero

quara

bagu

tubua

ketu

abati

mata
auna,mata-una

bunimata
udu

mao
pipina
mala

isi

Brumer Islands.

IV. Man, Reattonsuip, &c.

tau

sinadaow
sibawa

? bode

boe, ? nigerra
wadaiya

? yowboe

damagai

. Parts or Human Bopy, &c.

debada (db)

matada
matasinowa

baia
ishuda (0)

sopada (5)
mimenada,ma-
nada (D)

makada,
kada (0)

mo-

325

Louisiade.

daina,winakao

debada

matara
matara pulu-
pulura

bubusi, bush-
uda (D)
bushuda - go-

ina

sepada
mimiada

yingeda, yin-
gida, nenin

and nini (D)

326

English
Cheek
Chin
Ear

Throat
Back of neck
Shoulder

Armpit
Upper arm
Elbow

Fore-arm
Hand

back of
palm of

Finger

little

Thumb
Nails

Sides

Breasts
Nipple

Belly
Narel
Back
ip

APPENDIX.
Redscar Bay. Brumer Islands.
meta paparida
ate laiagaiada
taiya beadawa, tei-
nada (D)
kato garagaroda
omda
paga debearuda, da-
harada (D)
howow
diu mimassiuda,
nimasiuda(D)
, { monaga—arm
hima nimada
; murina
karokarona

dodori, vain

pakeriga
chinapata,

sinabadu
kau

{

Louisiade.
yamada

sewelida
batida

dumuada
nemada

chigirida
nemada
nemurrapupli,
paokona
nemada
nemada

nimada gigida) nemadagigina

nima garada rpnima gigina
(D) ()
gibuda, nima kapuruna
gibuda (D)
diyuda=? ribs
pididida (in
man)
susuga, tyutyuda
bogada kineida
poasida pusuana
dagearada muida, muina
piya pampada, uri-

punana

APPENDIX. 327

English. Redscar Bay. Brumer Islands. Louisiade.
Thigh mamu gotuda
Knee tui turida paoko
Leg and ankle dok
calf of ‘ . . kaibira, haibira
Foot : , . kaida, goguda gegeda
(D)
Heel : : . ‘ : . ujuna
Beard ; : . garagarada (b), baas
gagaeda 2
Hair of head hui Rurudu (6) huluda
Penis usi
Scrotum abu
Pudendum konu
Tatooing kerawera, keva- yatuya, kuri-
reva kuri, and ku-
rimani (D)

'/ Blood 7 : F : i . madibana
Collar-bone : ‘ ‘ P ‘ . bongida
Jaw-bone : : ; ‘ ; . sewe
Saliva kanudi ‘ é . walahai
Dung nian . ‘ . tai
Boil : ‘ . bonu
Leprosy . ; . warilya (D)

VI. Pronoun.

This ena aena, aina

VII. Numerals.

One owtamona, ta _teya (4) paihetia*
Two owrua, rua labui (5) pahiwo

* The numerals procured at the Duchateau Isles in January, 1850, are very diffe rent:
One = etega Three = eton Five = nemara-panu
Two = erua Four = epate Ten = erute.

328 APPENDIX.

English. Redscar Bay. Brumer Islands. Louisiade.
Three owtoi, toi haiyona (4) paihetuan
Four owhani, hani _haasi (8) paihepak
Five owima, ima harigigi (8) paihelima
Six owtaratoi,tow- h.—karimoga paihewona

ratoi
Seven owkuta, hitu —_h.-labui paikepik
Fight owtarahani,tow- h.-haiyona paihewan
rahani
Nine owsa, taa h.-haasi paihesiwo
Ten adarata, wauta saorudoi (8) paiheawata
Eleven ‘ F : . ' . p.-paihetia
Twelve ‘ : ; : ; . p.-pahiwo
Fifteen ‘ : . s.-harigigi
Nineteen : : . §.-h-haasi p.-paihesiwo
Twenty ruahui taoi-mate
Twenty-five . 5 . talabushi-mate
Thirty toyahui _towkarimoga-
mate
Thirty-one ; ‘ . t.-m.-karimoga
VIII. Apsectives.
Another : ‘ . nessao (6)
More patana sagu
IX. Apverss, &c.

Yes ; : . ewa
No, [havenot, will : : . nhige

not
— Iwon’t, don’t! laasi bes (8)
Presently, by and : : . tabu (6) tabu

bye
Exclamations of Aoca2o

surprise and Aiw-dim

astonishment

APPENDIX. 329

English. Redscar Bay. Brumer Islands. Louisiade.
X. VERBS.
Break (a stick) udumuan
Come away ‘ : . kurhama (D)
Cough huwa oso (D) keli-keli
Cry tai
Dive hetai
Eat, eat it : : . oquai
Give, give me mahi ureama (0)
Go away, go back : : F . ; . tadubi
Laugh kiri tanuwaraha
Paddle oawde ow-wassi (5)
Rise up ‘ : . kotoro
Sing ‘ 3 . pediri (D)
Sit down . ; - kumturi
Sleep mahuta
Sneeze : ‘ . tatino (D)
Strike (with fist) hela
Swim nahu
Whistle : : . Ino

XI. Misce.iangovs.

Expressingfriend- —. : . magasugo (bd)
ship
This is called : F . taina esana

XII. Names or Persons.

Males, No. 1. Woro Ihara Wadai
— — 2. Tripa Nubaida Maho
=, =, Bs Kari (father Tubuda Hewawo
and son)
» — 4 Baguya Eratao Mao
Females, No. 1. 3 i . Lataoma, Ko-

naia (D)

330 APPENDIX.

English. Redscar Bay. Brumer Islands. Louisiade.

Females, No. 2. ‘ : . Narumai, Ta-

tarai (D)
— — 3. ‘ ; . Haraobi, Bo-

narua (D)
——_ — 4. F ; . Perodi
—- — 5. ; 4 . Gubetta

No. III.

REMARKS ON THE VOCABULARIES

OF THE

VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE.
BY R. G. LATHAM, M.D.

In the way of comparative philology the most important
part of the Grammar of the Australian languages is, ge-
nerally, the Pronoun. That of the Kowrarega language
will, therefore, be the first pomt investigated.

Tn the tongues of the Indo-European class the personal
pronouns are pre-eminently constant, z.e., they agree in
languages which, in many other points, differ. How
thoroughly the sound of m runs through the Gothic,
Slavonic, and Iranian tongues as the sign of the pronoun
of the first person singular, in the oblique cases; how
regularly a modification of ¢, s, or ¢h, appears in such words
as tu, ov, thou, &c.! Now this constancy of the Pronoun
cxists in most languages; but not in an equally palpable and

APPENDIX. 331

manifest form. It is disguised in several ways. Sometimes,
as in the Indo-European tongues, there is one root for the
nominative and one for the oblique cases ; sometimes the
same form, as in the Finlandic, runs through the whole
declension; sometimes, as when we say you for thou in
English, one numéer is substituted for another ; and some-
times, as when the German says sie for thou, a change of
the person is made as well. When languages are known
in detail, these complications can be guarded against ; but
where the tongue is but imperfectly exhibited a special
analysis becomes requisite.

Generally, the first person is more constant than the
second, and the second than the third ; indeed, the third is
frequently no true personal pronoun at all, but a demon-
strative employed to express the person or thing spoken of
as the agent or object to a verb. Now, as there are fre-
quently more demonstratives than one which can be used
in a personal sense, two languages may be, in reality, very
closely allied, though their personal pronouns of the third
person differ. Thus the Latin ego=eyw; but the Latin
hic and ille by no means correspond in form with 6c, avro,
and %xevoc. This must prepare us for not expecting a
greater amount of resemblance between the Australian
personal pronouns than really exists.

Beginning with the most inconstant of the three pro-
nouns, viz., that of the third person, we tind in the Kowra-
rega the following forms :—

3.
Singular, masculine nu-du==he, him.
feminine na-du=she, her.
Dual, common . . pale=they two, them two.

Plural, tana=they, them.
In the two first of these forms the du is no part of the

root, but an affix, since the Gudang gives us the simpler

332 APPENDIX.

forms nue and na. Pale, the dual form, occurs in the
Western Australian, the New South Wales, the South
Australian, and the Parnkalla as follows: boola, bulo-ara,
purl-a, pudlanbi=they two.

2.
Singular ngi-du=thou, thee.
Dual ngi-pel=ye two, you two.
Plural ngi-tana=ye, you.

Here the root is limited to the syllable ngi, as shewn not
less by the forms ngi-pel, and ngi-tana, than by the simple
Gudang ngi=thou.

WNgi, expressive of the second person, is common in
Australia: ngi-nnee, ngi-ntoa, ni-nna, ngi-nte=thou, thee,
in the W. Australian, N. 8. Wales, Parnkalla, and En-
counter Bay dialects.

Ngi-pel is probably thou+ pair ; a priori this is a likely
way of forming a dual. As to the reasons a posteriori
they are not to be drawn wholly from the Kowrarega
tongue itself. Here the word for two is not pel but quassur.
But let us look further. The root p-l, or a modification of
it,=two in the following dialects; as well as in the Parn-
kalla and others: pur-laitye, poolette, par-kooloo, bull-a,
in the Adelaide, Boraipar, Yak-kumban, and Murrumbidge.
That it may stand too for the dual personal pronoun is
shewn in the first of these tongues; since in the Adelaide
language purla—ye two. Finally, its appearance amongst
the pronouns, and its absence amongst the numerals,
occurs in the Western Australian. The numeral to is
kardura ; but the dual pronoun is boala. The same pheno-
menon would occur in the present English if two circum-
stances had taken place, viz., if the Anglo-Saxon dual wi-t
=we two had been retained up to the present time amongst
the pronouns, and the word pair, brace, or couple, had
superseded ¢co amongst the numerals.

APPENDIX. 333

Lastly, the Western Australian and the Kowrarega so
closely agree in the use of the numeral two for the dual
pronoun, that each applies it in the same manner. In the
third person it stands alone, so that in W. Australian boala,
and in Kowrarega pale=they two, just as if in English we
said pair or both, instead of they both (he pair) ; whilst in
the second person, the pronoun precedes it, and a com-
pound is formed; just as if, in English, we translated the
Greek ogux by thou pair or thou both.

1.
Singular nga-tu=T, me.
Dual albei=we two, us two.
Plural arri=we, us.

Here the plural and dual are represented not by a modi-
fication of the singular but by a new word; as different
from nga as nos is from ego. The tu, of course, is non-
radical, the Gudang form being ngai.

Nga, expressive of the first person, is as common as ngi,
equivalent to the second. Thus, nga-nya, nga-toa, nga-i,
nga-pe=T, me, in the W. Australian, N.S. Wales, Parn-
kalla, and Encounter Bay dialects.

Now, the difference between the first and second per-
sons being expressed by different modifications (nga, ngi,) of
the same root (vg), rather than by separate words, sug-
gests the inquiry as to the original power of that root. It
has already been said that, in many languages, the pro-
noun of the ¢hird person is, in origin, a demonstrative. In
the Kowrarega it seems as if even the basis of the first
and second was the root of the demonstrative also; since,
by looking lower down in the list, we find that i-na=this,
che-na=that, and nga-du (nga in Gudang) = who. Ina
and chena also means here and there, respectively.

The dual form albeit reappears in the Yak-kumban dia-

334 APPENDIX.

lect of the River Darling where allewa=we two. Arri=
us, is also the first syllable in the Western Australian form
ar-lingul=we; or, rather it is ar-lingul in a simpler and
less compounded form. In a short specimen of Mr.
Eyre’s from the head of the Great Australian Bight, the
form in a appears in the singular number, ajjo=J and me.
The root tana=they, is not illustrated without going as far
as the Western Australian of Mr. Eyre. Here, however,
we find it in the compound word par-tanna=many. Its
original power is probably others; and it is most likely a
widely diffused Australian root.

The pronouns in question are compound rather than
simple; i. e. instead of nga=me, and ngi=thee, we have
nga-tu and ngi-du. What is the import and explanation
of this? It may safely be said, that the termination in the
Australian is not a termination like the Latin met in ego-
met, inasmuch as this last is constant throughout the three
persons (ego-met, tute-met, se-met), whereas, the former
varies with the pronoun to which it is appended (nga-tu,
and ngi-du). I hazard the conjecture that the two forms
correspond with the adverbs here and there; so that nga-tu
=T here, and ngi-du=thou there, and nu-du=he there. In
respect to the juxta-position of the simple forms (ngai, ngi,
and nue) of the Gudang with the compound ones (nga-tu,
ngi-du, and nu-du) of the Kowrarega, it can be shewn
that the same occurs in the Parnkalla of Port Lincoln;
where Mr. Eyre gives the double form ngai and nga-ppo
each=T or me.

Now, this analysis of the Kowrarega personals has ex-
hibited the evolution of one sort of pronoun out of another,
with the addition of certain words expressive of number,
the result being no true inflexion but an agglutination or
combination of separate words. It has also shewn how
the separate elements of such combinations may appear in

APPENDIX. 335

different forms and with different powers in different dia-
lects of the same language, and different languages of
the same class, even where, in the primary and normal
signification, they may be wanting in others. ‘The first of
these facts is a contribution to the laws of language in
general; the second shews that a great amount of appa-
rent difference may be exhibited on the surface of a lan-
guage which disappears as the analysis proceeds.

In rude languages the Numerals vary with the dialect
more than most other words. We can understand this by
imagining what the case would be in English if one of our
dialects counted things by the brace, another by the pair,
and a third by the couple. Nevertheless, if we bear in
mind the Greek forms fadacoa and Oadarra, we may fairly
suppose that the Kowrarega word for ¢wo, or quassur, is
the same word with the Head of Australian Bight hootera,
the Parnkalla kuttara, and the W. Austrahan hardura,
having the same meaning.

The difference, then, between the numerals of the Aus-
tralian languages—and it is undoubtedly great—is no
proof of any fundamental difference of structure or origin.
It is just what occurs in the languages of Africa, and, in a
still greater degree, in those of America.

The extent to which the numeration is carried is a matter
of more importance. Possibly a numeration limited to the
first three, four, or five numbers is the effect of intellectual
inferiority. It is certainly a cause that continues it. As
a measure of ethnological affinity it is unimportant. In
America we have, within a limited range of languages,
vigesimal systems like the Mexican, and systems limited
to the three first units like the Caribb. The difference
between a vigesimal and decimal system arises simply
from the practice of counting by the fingers and toes col-

336 APPENDIX.

lectively, or the fingers alone, being prevalent; whereas
the decimal system as opposed to the quinary is referrible
to the numeration being extended to both hands, instead
of limited to one. Numerations not extending as far as
five are generally independent of the fingers in toto. Then
as to the names of particular numbers. Two nations may
each take the name of the number ¢wo from some natural
dualism; but they may not take it from the same. For
instance, one American Indian may take it from a pair of
skates, another from a pair of shoes. If so, the word for
two will differ in the two languages, even when the names
for skate and shoe agree. All this is supported by real
facts, and is no hypothetical illustration; so that the
inference from it is, that, in languages where a numeral
system is in the process of formation, difference in the
names of the numbers is comparatively unimportant.

The extent to which the numerals vary, the extent to
which they agree, and the extent to which this variation
and agreement are anything but coincident with geogra-
phical proximity or distance, may be seen in the following
table :—

English one two three
Moreton Bay kamarah bulla mudyan
Island karawo poonlah madan
Bijenelumbo warat ngargark 2+1
Limbakarajia erat ngargark do.
Terrutong roka oryalk do.
Limbapyu immuta lawidperra do.
Kowrarega warapune quassur do.
Gudang epiamana elabaio do.
Darnley Island netat nes do.
Raffles Bay loca orica orongarie
Lake Macquarie wakol buloara ngoro

Peel River peer pular purla

APPENDIX. 337

Wellington ngungbai bula bula-ngungbai
Corio koimoil

Jhongworong kap

Pinegorine youa

Gnuurellean lua

KingGeorge’sSound keyen cuetrel murben
Karaula mal bular culeba
Lachlan,RegentLake nyoonbi bulia bulongonbi
Wollondilly River medung pulla colluerr

The Verb now requires notice. In languages in the
same stage of development with the Australian the usual
analysis, as shewn by the late Mr. Garnett in his masterly
papers on the structure of the verb, is as follows: 1. The
root. 2. The possessive pronoun. 3. A particle of time
— often originally one of place.

A rough illustration of this is the statement that such a
word as dormur = sleep—my—then (or there). To apply
this doctrine to the Kowrarega with our present data, is
unsafe. Still, I am inclined (notwithstanding some dif-
ficulties) to identify the pa of the Present tense with the
bu in hai-bu = now, and the n of the preterite with the n
of che-na = there.

The double forms of the Past tense (one in x, and an-
other in m) are at present inexplicable. So are the double
forms of the Imperative, viz. the one in 7, and the one
ine. It may, however, be remarked, that wherever the
Imperative ends in e, the Preterite has the form im »;
thus, pid-e = dig, pid-ema = dug. The only exception
is the anomalous form peneingodgi = dived. This prepares
the future grammarian for a division of the Kowrarega
Verbs into Conjugations.

The last class of words that supply the materials of
VOL. IL zZ

338 APPENDIX.

comment are the Substantives. Herein, the formation of
the plural by the addition of /e, probably occurs in several
of the Australian tongues. I infer this from many of
those words which we find in the vocabularies of languages
whereof the grammar is unknown, and which are expres-
sive of naturally plural objects ending in Ui, la, or J.

1. Star (stars)— pur-le, pi-lle, poo-lle, in Parnkalla,
Ajawong, and Yak-kumban.

2. Fire (flames)—ha-lla, gad-la, in W. Australian and
Parnkalla.

3. Head (hair) —ur-le, Encounter Bay. Here we
learn from the forms kar-ga, from the Head of the Great
Australian Bight, and ma-kar-ta, from Adelaide, that the
Z is foreign to the root.

4. Hands—marrow-la in the Molonglo dialect ; as con-
trasted with marra in the Adelaide.

This, however, is merely a conjecture; a conjecture,
however, which has a practical bearing. It suggests cau-
tion in the comparison of vocabularies; since, by mis-
taking an inflexion or an affix for a part of the root, we
may overlook really existing similarities.

Father Anjello’s very brief grammatical sketch of the
Limbakarajia language of Port Essington* exhibits, as far
as it goes, precisely the same principles as Mr. Macgilliv-
ray’s Kowrarega; indeed, some of the details coincide.

Thus, the Limbakarajia personal pronouns are—

I=nga-pi. We = ngari.
Thou = noie. We two = arguri.
He, she, it = gianat. Ye = noie.

Tiey = ngalmo.
Here the pi in nga-pi is the po in the Aiawong nga-ppo;

* Given to Mr. Macgillivray by Mr. James Macarthur, and prefixed to the
MS. Port Essington Vocabulary, alluded to at p. 157 of Vol. I.

APPENDIX, 339

the gian in gian-at being, probably, the in in the Kowra-
rega ina = that, this. Ngalmo, also, is expressly stated to
mean many as well as they, a fact which confirms the view
taken of tana.

As for the tenses of the verbs, they are evidently no
true tenses at all, but merely combinations of the verbal
root, and an adverb of time. In Limbakarajia, however, the
adverbial element precedes the verbal one. In Kowrarega,
however, the equivalent to this adverbial element (proba-
bly a simple adverb modified in form so as to amalgamate
with its verb, and take the appearance of an inflexion)
follows it—a difference of order, sequence, or position
upon which some philologists will, perhaps, lay considerable
stress. On the contrary, however, languages exceedingly
similar in other respects, may differ in the order of the
parts of a term; e.g. the German dialects, throughout,
place the article before the noun, and keep it separate :
whereas the Scandinavian tongues not only make it follow,
but incorporate it with the substantive with which it
agrees. Hence, a term which, if modelled on the German
fashion, should be hin sol, becomes, in Scandinavian, solen
=the sun. And this is but one instance out of many.
Finally, I may add that the prefix apa, im the present
tense of the verb = cut, is, perhaps, the same affix eipa in
the present tense of the Kowrarega verbs.

Another point connected with the comparative philology
of Australia is the peculiarity of its phonetic system. The
sounds of f and s are frequently wanting. Hence, the
presence of either of them in one dialect has been consi-
dered as evidence of a wide ethnological difference. Upon
this pomt—in the case of s—the remarks on the sound
systems of the Kowrarega and Gudang are important.
The statement is, the s of the one dialect becomes ty or

22

340 APPENDIX.

tsh (and ch) in the other. Thus the English word breast
= susv, Kowrarega; tyu-tyu, Gudang, and the English
outrigger float=sarima, Kowrarega; charima, Gudang,—~
which of these two forms is the colder? Probably the
Gudang, or the form in ty. If so, the series of changes is
remarkable, and by attending to it we may see how sounds
previously non-existent may become evolved.

Thus—let the original form for breast be tutu. The first
change which takes place is the insertion of the sound of
y, making tyu-tyu ; upon the same principle which makes
certain Englishmen say gyarden, kyind, and skyey, for
garden, hind, and sky. The next change is for ty to be-
come tsh. This we find also in English, where picture or
pictyoor is pronounced pictshur, &c. This being the change
exhibited in the Gudang form tyutyu (pr. choochoo, or
nearly so), we have a remarkable phonetic phenomenon,
viz. the existence of a compound sound (tsh} wherein s is
an element, in a language where s, otherwise than as the
element of a compound, is wanting. In other words, we
have a sound formed out of s, but not s itself; or (changing
the expression still further) we have s in certain combina-
tions, but not uncombined. Let, however, the change
proceed, and the initial sound of ¢ be lost. In this case
tsh becomes sh. A further change reduces sh to s.

When all this has taken place—and there are many
languages wherein the whole process is exhibited—the
sound of a hitherto unknown articulation becomes evolved
or developed by a natural process of growth, and that in a
language where it was previously wanting. The phenome-
non, then, of the evolution of new simple sounds should
caution us against over-valuing phonetic differences. So
should such facts as that of the closely allied dialects of
the Gudang and Kowrarega differing from each other by
the absence or presence of so important a sound as that

of s.

APPENDIX. 341

The comparative absence, however, of the sound of s, in
Australian, may be further refined on in another way; and
it may be urged that it is absent, not because it has never
been developed, or called into existence, but because it has
ceased to exist. In the Latin of the Augustan age as
compared with that of the early Republic, we find the s of
words like arbos changed into r (arbor). The old High
German, also, and the Icelandic, as compared with the
Meso-Gothic, does thesame. Still the change only affects
certain inilectional syllables, so that the original s being
only partially displaced, retains its place in the language,
although it occurs in fewer words. In Australian, where it
is wanting at all, it is wanting iz dodo: and this is a reason
for believing that its absence is referrible to non-develop-
ment rather than to displacement. Tor reasons too lengthy
to exhibit, I believe that this latter view is not applicable
to Australian; the s, when wanting, bemg undeveloped.
In either case, however, the phonetic differences between
particular dialects are the measures of but slight dif-
ferences.

Now—with these preliminary cautions against the over-
valuation of apparent differences—we may compare the
new data for the structure of the Kowrarega and Limba-
karajia with the received opinions respecting the Austra-
lian grammars in general.

These refer them to the class of agglutinate tongues,
i, e. tongues wherein the inflections can be shewn to con-
sist of separate words more or less incorporated or amal-
gamated with the roots which they modify. It may be
said that this view is confirmed rather than impugned.

Now, what applies to the Australian grammars applies
also to Polynesian and the more highly-developed Malay
languages,—such as the Tagala of the Philippines, for in-
stance; and, if such being the case, no difference of

342 APPENDIX.

principle in respect to their structure separates the Austra-
lian from the languages of those two great classes. But
the details, it may be said, differ undoubtedly ; and this is
what we expect. Plural numbers, signs of tense, and
other grammatical elements, are evolved by means of the
juxtaposition of similar but not identical elements, e. g.
one plural may be formed by the affix signifying many ;
another, by the affix signifying with or conjointly; one
preterite may be the root plus a word meaning then; an-
other the root plus a word meaning there. Futures, too,
may be equally evolved by the incorporation or juxta-
position of the word meaning after, or the word meaning
to-morrow. All this makes the exact coincidence of the
details of inflection the exception rather than the rule.

This doctrine goes farther than the mere breaking-down
of the lines of demarcation which separate classes of lan-
guages like the Australian from classes of languages like
the Malayo-Polynesian. It shews how both may be evolved
from monosyllabic tongues like the Chinese or Siamese.
The proof that such is really the case lies in the similarity
of individual words, and consists in comparative tables.
It is too lengthy for the present paper, the chief object of
which is to bring down the inferences from the undoubt-
edly great superficial differences between the languages of
the parts in question to their proper level.

In respect to the vocabularies, the extent to which the
analysis which applies to the grammar applies to the vo-
cables also may be seen in the followmg instance. The
word hand in Bijenelumbo and Limbapyu is birgalk.
There is also in each language a second form—anbirgalk
—wherein the an is non-radical. Neither is the alk; since
we find that armpit = ingamb-alk, shoulder = mundy-alk,
and fingers = mong-alk. This brings the root = hand to

APPENDIX. 343

birg. Now this we can find elsewhere by looking for.
In the Liverpool dialect, bir-il= hand, and at King
George’s Sound, peer = nails. The commonest root,
= hand in the Australian dialects, is m-r, e.g.

Moreton Bay murrah Corio far-onggnetok.
Karaula marra Jhongworong far-okgnata
Sydney da-mora Murrumbidje mur-rugan
Mudje mara Molonglo mar-rowla
Wellington = murra Head of Bight merrer
Liverpool ta-mura Parnkalla marra

All this differs from the Port Essington terms. Elbow,
however, in the dialects there spoken, = waare ; and fore-
arm = am-ma-woor ; wier, too, = palm in Kowyrarega.

To complete the evidence for this latter word being the
same as the m-r of the other dialects and languages, it
would be necessary to shew, by examples, how the sounds
of m and w interchange; and also to shew (by example
also) how the ideas of elbow, forearm, and hand do so.
But as the present remarks are made for the sake of illus-
trating a method, rather than establishing any particular
point, this is not necessary here; a few instances taken
from the names of the parts of the human body being
sufficient to shew the general distribution of some of the
commoncr Australian roots, and the more special fact of
their existence in the northern dialects :—

English hand Peel River ma
Terrutong manawiye Rafiles Bay maneiya
English foot Moreton Bay chidna
Moreton Is- — tenang- Karaula inna

land Lake Macquarie tine

344

Peel River
Mudje
Wellington
Liverpool
Bathurst
Boraipar
Lake Hind-
marsh
Murrum-
bidje
Molonglo
Pinegorine
Gnurellean

English

Moreton Is-
land

Bijenelumbo

Regent’s Lake

Lake Mac-
quarie

English
Moreton Is-
land
Moreton Bay
Gudang

Bijenelumbo

Regent’s Lake

Karaula
Mudje

x PENDIX.

tina

dina
dinnung
dana

dina
tchin-nang-y
jin-nerr

tyin-nuk

jin-y-gy
gena
gen-ong-be-

gnen-a

Jhongworong gnen-ong-

gnat-a
Corio gen-ong-
gnet-ohk
Colack hen-ong-
gnet-ok
Bight Head jinna
Parnkalla idna
Aiawong dtun
K. George’s tian
Sound
Goold Island pinyun and
pinkan

hair, beard

Goold Island kiaram

yerreng Wellington uran
Karaula yerry

yirka Sydney yaren

ooran Peel River — teraz

wurung Mudje yarar

eye Jhongworong mer-ing-gna-

mel ta
Pinegorine ma

mill Gnurellean mer-e-gnen-a

emeri=eye- Boraipar mer-ring-y

brow Lake Hind- mer

merde=eyelid marsh

mil Lake Mundy meer-rang

mil Murrum- mil

mir bidje

APPENDIX. 345

Corio mer-gnet-ok Bight Head mail

Colack mer-gnen-ok K.George’s mial

Dautgart mer-gna-nen Sound

English tooth Sydney yera

Moreton Is- _tiya Wellington irang
land Murrum- yeeran

Moreton Bay deer bidje

Lake Mac- tina Goold Island eera
quarie

English tongue Lake Mac- _ talan

Moreton Bay dalan quarie

Regent’s Lake talleng Sydney dalan

Karaula talley Peel River fale

Goold Island — talt¢ K. George’s talien

Sound

English ear Moreton Bay bidna

Kowrarega howra Karaula binna

Sydney kure Peel River bine

Liverpool hure Bathurst benang-arei

Lake Mac- ngureong Goold Island pinna
quarie

The Miriam Vocabulary belongs to a different class, viz.
the Papuan. It is a dialect of language first made known
to us through the Voyage of the Fly, as spoken in the
islands Erroob, Maer, and Massied. Admitting this, we
collate it with the North Australian tongues, and that, for
the sake of contrast rather than comparison. Here, the
philologist, from the extent to which the Australian tongues
differ from cach other, notwithstanding their real affinity,

346 APPENDIX.

is prepared to find greater differences between an Austra-
lian and a Papuan language than, at the first glance, exists.
Let us verify this by reference to some words which relate
to the human body, and its parts.

ENGLISH. Erroos. Masstzp. Kowrareca. GuDANG.
Nose pit pichi piti

Lips eee anka » . angha
Cheek baag . . . baga baga
Chin, jaw iba ibu ibu ebu
Navel hopor, kupor kupor kupar hopurra
Eye es dana dana dana
Skin egur : equora
Vein kerer hirer herur herur
Bone lid . 2 rida

Sore bada . . . bada

Few Australian vocabularies are thus similar—a fact
which may be said to prove too much; since it may lead to
inference that the so-called Papuan tongue of Torres Strait
is really Australian. Nevertheless, although I do not ab-
solutely deny that such is the case, the evidence of the
whole body of ethnological fact—e. g. those connected with
the moral, intellectual, and physical conformation of the
two populations—is against it.

And so is the philology itself, if we go further. The
Erroob pronouns are,

Me =ha you = ma his = eta
Mine=ha-ra your = ma-ra
all of which are un-Australian.

Are we then to say that all the words of the table just
given are borrowed from the Australian by the Papuans,
or vice versd? No. Some belong to the common source
of the two tongues, pit= nose being, probably, such a

APPENDIX. 347

word ; whilst others are the result of subsequent inter-
course.

Still, it cannot absolutely be said that the Erroob or
Miriam tongue is not Australian also, or vice versd. Still
less, is it absolutely certain that the former is not transi-
tional between the New Guinea language and the Austra-
lian. I believe, however, that it is not so.

The doubts as to the philological position of the Miriam
are by no means diminished by reference to the nearest
unequivocally Papuan vocabulary, viz. that of Redscar Bay.
Here the difference exceeds rather than falls short of our
expectations. The most important of the few words which
coincide are

ENGLISH. Repscar Bay. Erroos.

Head quara herem

Mouth mao mit = lips
Testicles abu eba = penis
Shoulder paga pagas = upper arm

On the other hand, the Redscar Bay word for throat,
hato, coincides with the Australian karta of the Gudang of
Cape York. Again, a complication is introduced by the
word buni-mata = eyebrow. Here mata = eye, and, conse-
quently, bunt == brow. This root re-appears in the Erroob ;
but there it means the eyeball, as shewn by the following
words from Jukes’ Vocabulary.

Eye irkeep

Eyebrow irkeep-moos = eye-hair
Eye ball pont

Eyelid poni-pow = eyeball-hair

Probably the truer meaning of the Redscar Bay word is
eyeball.

No inference is safer than that which brings the popu-

348 APPENDIX.

lation of the Louisiade Archipelago, so far, at least, as it
is represented by the Vocabularies of Brierly Island and
Duchateau Island, from the eastern coast of New Guinea.
What points beyond were peopled from Louisiade is
another question.

For the islands between New Ireland and New Caledonia
our data are lamentably scanty; the list consisting of—
. A short vocabulary from the Solomon Isles.
. Short ones from Mallicollo.
. The same from Tanna.
. Shorter ones still from Erromanga and
. Annatom.
Cook’s New Caledonian Vocabulary.

7. La Billardiere’s ditto.

The collation of these with the Louisiade has led me to
a fact which I little expected. As far as the very scanty
data go, they supply the closest resemblance to the
Louisiade dialects, from the two New Caledonian vocabu-
laries. Now New Caledonia was noticed in the Appendix
to the Voyage of the Fly (vol. ii. p. 318) as apparently
having closer philological affinities with Van Diemen’s
Land, than that country had with Australia; an apparent
fact which induced me to write as follows: “A propo-
sition concerning the Tasmanian language exhibits an
impression, rather than a deliberate opinion. Should it,
however, be confirmed by future researches, it will at once
explain the points of physical contrast between the Tas-
manian tribes and those of Australia that have so often
been insisted on. It is this—that the affinities of language
between the Tasmanian and the New Caledonian are
stronger than those between the Australian and Tas-
manian. ‘This indicates that the stream of population for
Van Diemen’s Land ran round Australia, rather than
across it.” Be this as it may, the remark, with our
present scanty materials, is, at best, but a suggestion—a

An Pr ON

APPENDIX. 349

suggestion, however, which would account for the physical
appearance of the Tasmanian being more New Caledonian
than Australian.

The chief pomt of resemblance between the Louisiade
and the New Caledonian is taken from the numerals. In
each system there is a prefix, and in each that prefix
begins with a labial letter—indeed the wa of New Cale-
donia and the pahi of Louisiade seem to be the same
roots.

1. 2.
Brierly Island paihe-tia pahi-wo
Cook’s New Caledonia wa-geeaing wa-roo
La Billardiere’s do. oua-nait oua-dou
3. A.
Brierly Island paihe-tuan paihe-pak
Cook’s New Caledonia wa-teen wa-mbaeek
La Billardiere’s do. oua-tguien oua-thait
5. 6.
Brierly Island paihe-lima paihe-wona
Cook’s New Caledonia wa-nnim wa-nnim-geeck
La Billardicre’s do. oua-nnaim oua-naim-guik
7: 8.
Brierly Island pahe-pik paihe-wan
Cook’s New Caledonia wa-nnim-noo wa-nnim-gain
La Billardiere’s do. oua-naim-dou ou-naim-guein
9. 10.
Brierly Island paihe-siwo paihe-awata
Cook’s New Caledonia wa-nnim-baeek wa-nnoon-aiuk
La Billardiere’s do. oua-naim-bait oua-doun-hic

The Redscar Bay numerals are equally instructive.
They take two forms: one with, one without, the prefix m
ow, as recorded by Mr. Macgillivray.

350 APPENDIX.

This system of prefix is not peculiar. The Tanna and
Mallicollo numerals of Cook are—

English. Tanna. Mallicollo.
One r-eedee tsee-kaee
Two ka-roo e-ry
Three ka-har e-rei
Four kai-phar e-bats
Five k-reerum e-recum
Six ma-r-eedee tsookaeee
Seven ma-ka-roo gooy
Hight ma-ka-har hoo-rey
Nine ma-kai-phar good-bats
Ten ma-k-reerum senearn

Here, although the formations are not exactly regular,
the prefixion of an initial syllable is evident. So is the
quinary character of the numeration. The prefix itself,
however, in the Tanna and Mallicollo is no labial, as in
the Louisiade and New Caledonian, but either & or a
vowel.

The next fact connected with the Louisiade vocabularies
is one of greater interest. Most of the names of the dit-
ferent parts of the body end in da. In the list in question
they were marked in italics; so that the proportion they
bear to the words not so ending was easily seen. Now it is
only the words belonging to this class that thus terminate.
Elsewhere the ending da is no commoner than any other.

What does this mean? If we look to such words as
mata-da=eyes, sopa-da=lips, maka-da=teeth, and some
other naturally plural names, we should infer that it was
a sign of number. That this, however, is not the case is
shewn by the equivalents to tongue, nose, and other single
members where the affix is equally common. What then
is its import? The American tongues help us here.

APPENDIX. 351

English Mbaya Abiponi Mokobi
Head na-guilo ne-maiat
Eye ni-gecoge na-toele ni-cote
Ear na-pagate
Nose ni-onige
Tongue no-gueligi
Hair na-modi ne-etiguic na-ccuta
Hand ni-baagadi —na-pakeni na-poguena
Foot no-gonagi
English Moxa (1)* Moxa (2) Moxa (3)
Head nu-ciuti nu-chuti nu-chiuti
Eye nu-chi x os nu-ki
Ear nu-cioca
Nose nu-siri nu-siri
Tongue nu-nene nu-nene nu-nene
Hand nu-bore nu-boupe nu-bore
Foot ni-bope g: os ni-bope

Now in these, and in numerous other American tongues,
the prefix is the possessive pronoun ; in other words, there
is a great number of American languages where the
capacity for abstracting the thing possessed from the
possessor is so slight as to make it almost impossible to dis-
connect the noun from its pronoun. I believe, then, the
affixes in question have a possessive power; and am not
aware that possessive adjuncts thus incorporated have been
recognised in any of the languages for these parts; indeed,
they are generally considered as American characteristics.

How far does their presence extend? In the New Ca-
ledonian vocabulary of La Billardiere we find it. The
names of the parts of the body all take an affix, which no
other class of words does. This is gha, guai, or ghai, or
other similar combination of g with a vowel. In Van

= These are three different dialects.

552

APPENDIX.

Diemen’s Land, an important locality, we find the follow-
ing series of words, which are submitted to the judgment
of the reader.

English.
Foot
Leg
Thigh
Belly
Neck
Ears
Nose
Eyes

Hair

Face
Mouth
Teeth
Tongue
Arm
Fist
Head

Western Tasmanian.
lula
peea=piya=posteriors, Brumer I.
tula=turi=knee, Brumer I.
cawara-ny
denia
lewli-na
me-na
pollatoola—matara-pulupulura=eyelashes,
Brierly I.
pareata
palani-na
manrable
ca-nia
yannalople=yinge-da, Brierly I.
tulla-na
alree
reannema-na
pulbea-ny

Here the termination za appears elsewhere, as in mema-
na=fight, nabagee-na—=sun; but by no means so fre-
quently, nor yet with such an approach to regularity.

English.
Hair
Hand
Foot
Head
Eye
Nose
Tongue
Teeth
Ear

Circular Head.
parba
rabal-ga
rabuc-ka
ewuc-ka
mameric-ca
rowari-ga
mamana=mimena, Brumer I.
cawna
cowanrig-ga

APPENDIX. 353

Here, however, it must not be concealed that the
termination ka, or ga, occurs in other words, such as
tenal-ga = laugh, tar-ga = cry, teiri-ga = walk, lamuni-
ha = see. These, however, are verbs; and it is possible
(indeed probable) that the & or g is the same as in the pre-
ceding substantives, just as the m in su-m, and d-wu is the
m in meus, me, and iue. Still, this will not apply through-
out; eg. the words like Jalli-ga = kangaroo, para-ka =
flower, and others.

ENGLISH. EASTERN TASMANIAN.
Eye lepe-na
Ear pelverata
Elbow rowella
Foot langa-na
Fist trew
Head pathe-na-naddi
Hair cetha-na
Hand anama-na = nema-da, Bru-
mer I.
Knee nannabena-na
Leg lathana-ma
Teeth yan-na = yinge-da, Brierly I.
Tongue me-na = mime-na, Brumer I.
Chin came-na
Neck lepera
Breast wagley

Here, the number of other words ending in na is very
considerable ; so considerable that, if it were not for the
cumulative evidence derived from other quarters, it would
be doubtful whether the na could legitimately be con-
sidered as a possessive affix at all. It may, however, be so
even in the present instance.

To these we may add two lists from the Lobo and
Utanata dialects of the south-western coast of New Guinea.

VOL, II. 2a

354
ENGLISH.
Arms
Back
Beard
Belly
Breast—female
Breast—male
Cheeks
Ears
Eyebrows
Eyes
Fingers
Foot
Hands
Hair
Head
Knee
Mouth
Nose
Neck
Tongue
Thigh
Teeth
Toes

APPENDIX.

UTANATA.
too
urimi

imauw
auw
paiety
awamu
lanie

mame

mouw
toe-mare
oeirie
oepauw
iripu

irie
birimboe

Logo.
nima-ngo
rusuko-ngo
minooro

kanboro-ngo

} gingo-ngo

wafiwirio-ngo

matato-ngo-wuru
matatoto-ngo
nima-ngo-sori
kai-ngo
nima-ngo-uta
mono-ng-fura
mono-ngo or umum
kai-ngo-woko
orie-ngo

sikaio-ngo

riwoto-ngo
nisora

Finally, we have the long, and evidently compound
forms of p** in the Corio, Colack, and other Australian
dialects; long and evidently compound forms which no
hypothesis so readily explains as that of the possessive ad-
junct ; a phenomenon which future investigation many
shew to be equally Oceanic and American.

APPENDIX. 355

No. IV.

CATALOGUE OF THE BIRDS

OF THE

NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA AND TORRES STRAIT.

Lists exhibiting the occurrence of Australian Birds in
particular districts are instructive, as shewing the range of
species over the various parts of an extensive district, and
as bearing upon, and to my mind confirming, to a certain
extent, the views of those geologists who consider Australia
to have formerly appeared as a cluster of three or four
islands, subsequently connected since the tertiary epoch so
as to form what may now be considered as a continent.
With the kind assistance in determining the species of Mr.
Gould, who has elsewhere published similar lists* of the
birds of other parts of Australia, the annexed Catalogue has
been made out. All the species contained therein have
passed under my own observation, and I have distributed
them in three columns: the first includes that portion of

* Tn the works of Strzelecki and Eyre, and Introduction to the Birds of
Australia.
2a2

356 APPENDIX.

the north-east coast of Australia and its islands included
between the Tropic of Capricorn and lat. 17° 45’ south, or
the parallel of the bottom of the Gulph of Carpentaria ;
the second comprises the remainder of the north-east coast
as far to the northward as Cape York; and the third is de-
voted to the islands of Torres Strait, from Raine Islet to
Bramble Cay. The species marked with an ? are those
which are probably local varieties, representatives of south-
ern birds, shewing slight differences in size, &c., yet not
decided enough to be of specific value.

Ichthyaetus leucogas- | 12 |3 | Chelidon arborea .
ter Merops ornatus 2
Haliastur leucosternus 1 | 23 | Dacelo Leachii 2
Pandion leucocephalus| 1 | 2: 3 | Haleyon Torotoro 2
Falco frontatus 3 sancta 2
Teracidea Berigora 2 sordida 2
Astur Nove Hollandiz) 1 3 Macleayn . 2
approximans 1) 2 Tanysiptera Sylvia 2
Accipiter torquatus .| 1] 23 | Alcyone azurea 2
Milvus affinis . 1)2 pusilla . . . 2
Circus Jardinii 3 | Artamus leucopygialis| 1) 2
Strix delicatula 1/2/3 | Diceum _hirundina- 2
Athene Boobook . 1 ceum
maculata 1/2 Cracticus nigrogularis| 1 | 2
Podargus humeralis . | 1 Quoyii , 12
Papuensis 2 Grallina Australis 2
—— marmoratus 2 Grauculus melanops . 2
Eurystopodus —albo- 2/3 hypoleucus . 2
gularis Swainsonii . 2
guttatus . 1/2/3 | Campephaga Karu 2
Acanthylis caudacuta 2 Pachycephala mela- 2
Cypselus Australis 2/3 nura
Collocalia 1 Colluricincla brunnea 2

oo

Colluricincla harmo-
nica

Dicrurus bracteatus .
Rhipidura rufifrons .
Seisura inquieta
Piezorhynchus nitidus
Myiagra concinna
latirostris

Monarcha trivirgata .
leucotis .

Arses Kaupii
Petroica bicolor? .
Macheerirhynchus fla-

viventris

Drymodes superciliosa
Malurus amabilis
Brownii .
Sphenceacus galactotes
Cysticola lineocapilla
Sericornis maculata ?
Anthus Australis .
Estrelda Bichenoviil .
Donacola

castaneo-
thorax

Pitta strepitans

Chlamydera nuchalis

cerviniventris

Oriolus assimilis .
-~— flavocinctus .
Sphecotheres flaviven-
tris :
Aplonis metallica .
Chalybzeus cornutus .
Corvus coronoides

ee ee

[Cos NO NOD O° NOD OO COE COME NOE NON)

wo wo lo lo ro wy ww wv to bo

mw wo wv

APPENDIX.

Ptilotis chrysotis .
filigera

Entomophila
Tropidorhynchus ar-
genticeps

Myzomela erythroce-
phala
——- obscura .
Nectarinia Australis .
Zosterops luteus .
Cuculus cineraceus
Cuculus insperatus
Chrysococcyx lucidus
Endynamys Flindersii
Centropus Phasianus
Ptiloris Victorize
magnifica

Cacatua galerita .

Microglossus aterri-
mus

Calyptorhynchus
Banksii

Aprosmictus erythrop-
terus ?

Platycercus palliceps ?

Melopsittacus undula-
tus

Trichoglossus Swain-
sonil

rubritorquis .
Ptilonopus Ewingii
superbus .

|

bo bw bv

bo bw bv

wm we vw

mp w bv

357

w

358

Carpophaga luctuosa
puella

Lopholaimus antare-
ticus
Chalcophaps
chlora
Phaps elegans .
Geopelia humeralis .
tranquilla
Macropygia Phasia-
nella?
Talegalla Lathami
Megapodius tumulus
Turnix melanota
Coturnix pectoralis
Synoicus Australis
Sinensis
Dromaius Nove Hol-
landiz .
Otis Australasiana
Esacus magnirostris .
CEdicnemus grallarius
Hoematopus longiros-
tris
fuligmosus
Sarciophoruspectoralis
Charadrius xantho-
cheilus
Hiaticula bicincta
ruficapilla
imornata
Limosa uropygialis
Scheeniclus Australis
_— albescens

chryso-

eS Se

He

SK ee ee

now wo © &

bo

wb pw wo vo

APPENDIX.

3

ow oo oo oo WwW

Actitis empusa
Glottis Glottoides
Strepsilas Interpres .
Numenius Australis .
—— uropygialis
—— minutus
Threskiornis
pennis
Grus Australasianus .
Mycteria Australis
Ardea Pacifica
Nove Hollandiz
Herodias jugularis
Greyii
—— plumifera
syrmatophora .
Nycticorax Caledoni-

stricti-

cus ‘ 2 }
Ardetta flavicollis
stagnatilis
Porphyrio melanota .
Rallus pectoralis
Porzana leucophrys .
Tadorna Radjah
Anas superciliosa

punctata .
Xema Jamesonii?
Sylochelidon — stren-
nuus . Fe 5
Thalasseus _Peleca-
noides .
Sterna gracilis .
melanauchen
Sternula Nereis

ell ell ae el el

— eee

mw we Ww bw vw & 09

is)

we tr bt

ps wb b&

ww co w

oo ww w w

ow oo co OW

Hydrochelidon fiuvia-
tilis
Onychoprion fuligino-

sus

Panaya

Anous stolidus .

leucocapillus

Puffinus sphenurus

Phalacrocorax Carboi-
des

See Se

2

bo

APPENDIX.

wow ow w

Phalacrocorax mela-
noleucus

Attagen Ariel .

Phaeton pheenicurus .

Pelecanus conspicilla-
tus

Sula personata

fusca

piscator

359

©6090 APPENDIX.

ON THE MOLLUSCA

COLLECTED BY MR. MACGILLIVRAY DURING THE
VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE.

By PROFESSOR EDWARD FORBES, F.R.S.

I. On tHe BatuymMerricaL DistrisuTion oF MARINE
TESTACEA ON THE HASTERN Coast OF AUSTRALIA.

As in every instance the exact locality, depth and
character of habitat of each species of Mollusk taken
were carefully noted at the time of capture, much more
valuable information elucidating the distribution of shell-
fish in the Australian seas has been collected during this
expedition than was ever before obtained. Whilst new
species are usually sought after by collectors with eager-
ness, the habits and range of the commoner or less
conspicuous forms are passed over without observation.*

* An extensive collection of landshells was made at Madeira. They proved
cn examination to be all known species, including several of the rarer forms, and
nota few of those discovered by the Rev. Mr. Lowe. They were compared
with Madeiran specimens by Mr. Vernon Wollaston. When the Rattle-
snake touched at the Azores on the return voyage, a few landshells were col-
lected at Fayal. Among them was the Helix barbula, an Asturian species,
Helix pauperata, and Bulimus variatus, Madeiran or Canarian forms. A
considerable number of marine and terrestrial Testacea were procured at Rio
de Janeiro, not a few of them new and of great interest. Terebratula rosea
was dredged off Rio in thirteen fathoms water, on a coarse sandy bottom.
Collections were also made at the Cape of Good Hope, at Mauritius and in

APPENDIX. 361

Hence every note on the habitat and mode of life of
marine creatures from the southern hemisphere becomes
of no small value. Indeed, there is no information more
desirable at this time for the illustration of geological
phenomena, than such as may throw light on the distri-
bution in range and depth of the creatures inhabiting the
seas of the Tropics, and those living around the coasts of
Australia and New Zealand. The following notes will
serve to record the more prominent facts bearing upon the
Bathymetrical distribution of the Testacea collected on
the northern coast of Australia, at Port Essington, and on
the eastern coast from Cape York to Bass’ Strait,
including the northern ports of Van Diemen’s Land.

It may here be remarked that the Molluscan fauna of
the seas of North Australia and of the north-east coast
from Cape York southwards to Sandy Cape, belongs to
the great Indo-Pacific province, a zoological region
extending from the east coast of Africa (from Port Natal
or a little above, northwards to Suez) to Easter Island in
the Pacific. But south of Sandy Cape and onwards to
Van Diemen’s Land (and apparently including New
Zealand), we have a distinct (East) Australian province,
marked by a peculiar fauna in many respects, representa-
tive of the Senegal, and perhaps also Lusitanian regions
of the North Atlantic.

Proceeding in descending order we may first remark on
the

Shells of Salt Marshes. Asin the Northern hemisphere,
Melampus or Conovulus is the genus represented in such
localities. Thus “ Auricula Australis’? prevails in salt
marshes at Brisbane Water, and an allied species in
similar places in New Zealand. In both instances

the Falkland Isles. The Radiata were gathered with as much care and their
habitats recorded with as much attention as the Mollusca.

362 APPENDIX.

we find this form accompanied by members of a curious
genus characteristic of the Australian province, —
Ampullacera, the Ampullacera Quoyana being the Bris-
bane Water species, and A. avellana, that of New Zealand.
In the latter case an Assiminea is its companion. A very
curious fact noted during the expedition was the presence
of a Unio living within the influence of salt water, in the
River Brisbane.

Shells inhabiting mud, §c. among mangroves.

These belong to the Indo-Pacific province. Some are
found on the mangroves themselves. Such are the
Littorina scabra, on the trunks and branches of mangroves
among islets in Trinity Bay ; a Phasianella inhabiting the
trunks and branches of Rhizophora at the Percy Isles ;
a Littorina on the leaves of Aigeceras fragrans at Port
Curtis, Auricula angulata, and rugulata on the trunks of
mangroves at Port Essington, and Monodonta viridis on their
roots at Night Island ; a new and very beautiful Ostrea was
found on the roots of mangroves among Low Islets in
Trinity Bay. In the last named locality a Cytherea inhabited
the mud around their roots. At the Three Islets several new
species of Melampus, a Nerita and a Cyrena lived in a
like habitat, and at Port Essington Certthium Kieneri,
was found in the same situation. The fine Cyrena
cyrenoides lives among the roots of mangroves in the
Louisiade Archipelago.

Lirrorat Zone.—Of the many living Gasteropoda taken
in this region, very few are new species. Of Patelloid
forms we have a new Fissurella and Parmophorus convexus
at Port Dalrymple, accompanied by Haliotis nevosa, and
species of Patella and Siphonaria. In the more tropical
regions, Haliotis asinina and varia, another and distinct
Patella, two Fissurelle and a Scutella were collected. Of
convolute shells the littoral species gathered were all Indo-

APPENDIX. 363

Pacific and inhabitants of mostly the coral-reef region,
such as Cyprea arabica, annulus. isabella, errones and
oryza, Conus magus, arenatus, achatinus, §c. Oliva cruen-
tata, tremulina and ericinus, those of the last named genus
often living in sand. Bulla cylindrica occurred in sandy
pools on the reef at Claremont Isles. Of Volutes, V.
Turneri lives on coral blocks at Port Essington, and V.
undulata partially buried in sand banks at Port Dalrymple.
Conus maculosus is an inhabitant of the last-named loca-
lity. The Mitras found in the Littoral zone were all on
the north-east coast, and well known Indo-Pacific forms.
A new Murex was taken on mud at Port Curtis. Fascio-
laria coronata, Fusus alveolatus, and Triton verrucosus were
found on the reefs at Port Dalrymple. Many species of
Nassa, all known forms, were collected, mostly on mud in
the Littoral zone, chiefly in the north-eastern province.
Phos cyanostoma lives on muddy sand in the Trinity Bay
islets, where also in similar situations is Terebra maculata
and Pyramidella maculosa. Pyramidella auriscati is a
littoral shell among the reefs of the Claremont Isles.
Several Purpure were taken on reefs and rocks at low
water; among them was P. textiliosa, a Port Dalrymple
species. A Quoya lives on rocks about high-water mark
in Lizard Island. Several Terebre, including 7. crenulata,
dimidiata and affinis, mhabit muddy sand among Pipon’s
Islets. The well-known Strombus luhuanus lives on sand
among the reefs at Eagle Island. A Cerithium inhabits
mud-flats at Port Molle and Pipon’s Islets. Of the holos-
tomatous gasteropods inhabiting the Littoral zone, the
Natice, mostly well-known species, were taken in sandy
localities on the north-east coast, and the /Verite in the
same province, mostly on rocks or reefs. Lit¢orina pyra-
midalis and mauritiana are inhabitants of the rocky head-
lands of Broken Bay; other forms were collected at Port

364 APPENDIX.

Curtis and at Port Dalrymple. At the last-named locality,
Turbo undulatus, a new Risella, Monodonta constricta and
buccata, and Trochus reticularis were taken on reefs.
Littoral species of the same genera occurred on the
north-east coast. A new Rissoa was found under stones
at Night Island. Turbo squamosus and Trochus lenti-
ginosus are inhabitants of the shore at Port Essington.
In Broken Bay species of Bankivia and Scalaria were
collected, cast dead on the shore.

The Acephala found living in the Littoral zone of the
south-east Australian province were Cleidotherus chamoides,
under rocks at low water in Port Jackson; Mytilus erosus
on the mud of zostera flats at Port Dalrymple, several
species of Venus, Tapes, C'ytherea in similar localities ;
Arca globata in the same habitat at Brisbane; Arca fus-
cata in reefs at Port Dalrymple; a new Tellina on mud
at Port Phillip; another with Donax epidermia in sand at
Broken Bay, and Clavagella australis on rocks at low-
water, Port Jackson. Species of Pectunculus, Nucula,
Pandora, Anatinella, Venus, Tellina (decussata and del-
toidalis) and Mesodesma are thrown dead on the shores.

In the north and north-east Australian province the
living littoral Acephala are Solens of which two new species
were taken at Port Essington, Anomia australis, Anatina
olerina, and another, new, in the same locality ; species of
Mytilus, Meleagrina and Pinna, Ostrea and Pecten (pyz-
idatus) Lima fragilis and squamosa, Hippopus and Tridacna
the former detached on coral reefs, the latter imbedded in
the coral, Corbis fimbriatus in sand among coral reefs;
species of Venus, Cytherea, Circe, and Tapes in mud,
Artemis sculpta at Port Essington on sand, Lucine on sand
or reefs, Crassatella on mud flats at Port Curtis, where

Cypricardia vellicata occupies the fissures of rocks with
Cardite ; several species of Cardium in mud or sand, in-

APPENDIX, 365

luding C. fragum, C. subrugosum, and C. unedo; San-

guinolaria rugosa at Dunk Island; species of MMesodesma
in sand, and Mactre and Telling in mud; anew Psam-
mobia at Port Essington as also a new Pholas that bores
into coral. Other species, members of the same genera,
are cast on shore dead.

Recion or WeeEps equivalent to the Lamrnarian
Rucion of the European Seas. Some seventeen or eighteen
localities in this Bathymetrical province were explored by
means of the dredge, varying in depth from one to seven-
teen fathoms. In the south-east Australian province the
principal Gasteropoda procured were Bulla brevis, at Port
Jackson, in 6 fathoms; Cyprea oryza, at Port Phillip, in 5
fathoms ; Calyptrea connata, in 6 fathoms, Port Jackson,
with WVassa suturalis, and another, a new Terebra, Mono-
tigma casta, Mitra sordida, a Marginella, a Columbella, and
Struthiolaria oblita. A Phasianella was dredged in from
3 to 5 fathoms on sandy mud, at Port Phillip, with Elenchus
rutilus, Marginella fornicata, and Cerithium granarium,
In the North-east Australian province, a different set of
shells was dredged in similar depths, such as a Sigaretus,
possibly new, Fissurella calyculata, Mitra obeliscus, a Tur-
ritella, a Murex, Columbella versicolor, and a new species
off Cape York, Ranella pulchella, new, several Nasse,
Phos senticosa and Blainvillei, and sculptilis, in 3 and
5 fathoms, off Cape York ; Strombus Campbelli, in mud off
Cape Upstart; Cerithium obeliscus, and a new species of the
genus Obeliscus. In the deeper localities Cyprea fimbriata
occurred, dead, off Cape Capricorn; and two species of
Ranella, one being R. pusilla, in 17 fathoms, off the Percy
Isles. The univalves dredged among the Louisiade Islands
in this region of depth were mostly known forms, such as
Conus betulinus, Oliva sanguinolenta, Mitra exasperata,
Terebra maculata, consors and labiata; these were all
taken in less than six fathoms water.

366 APPENDIX.

The bivalves of this region were but few. In the South
Australian province species of Mactra, Psammobia, Venus,
Tapes and Pecten, all peculiar, were taken. This is the
region of the peculiar genus Myadora, of which five species
were dredged on sand in 6 fathoms at Port Jackson,
along with Myochama anomioides, Trigonia margaritacea,
Lima bullata, and Cardium radiatum. In the North-east
Australian province we have species of Donar, Mactra and
Corbula, all apparently new, from the shallower localities ;
Corbula tunicata, Pectunculus tenuicostatus, and another,
from 8 to 11 fathoms, off Cumberland Islands; species of
Arca, Pectunculus, Avicula, Pecten, Venus, Circe, Cardium
Cardita, and Erycina, mostly new, from 15 to 17 fathoms
in a sandy and shelly bottom off Cape Capricorn.

Coratiine Zone. Some dredgings in both North and
South-eastern provinces, in depths between twenty-seven
and forty-five fathoms, give a slight idea of the fauna of
this important region. In the South-eastern province we
find in forty and forty-five fathoms on a muddy bottom
in Bass’s Strait, Turritella sinuata, Trochus nebulosus, a
Pleurotoma, an Emarginula, a Dentalium, two species of
Cardita, a Cypricardia, a Venus, a Nucula, and Pectun-
culus holosericeus. In the North-eastern province we
find off Cumberland Island in 27 fathoms, also on a
muddy bottom, species of Murex, Nassa, Turritella,
Ranella pusilla, a Fusus, Cancellaria antiquata,a Terebra,
two Dentalia, a Natica, a Tercbellum, a Scalaria, a Car-
dium, a Venus, a Nucula, a Pecten, and a Spondylus.

It is evident from the comparative paucity of undescribed
species procured in the Littoral zone and the large pro-
portion of new or doubtful forms among those taken by
the dredge, that a rich harvest has yet to be reaped in the
deeper regions of the southern seas. In the lower zones,
however, just as much as in the upper, the distinctions of
province are maintained. The explanation of this com-

APPENDIX, 367

plete separation of the South-eastern marine fauna of
Australia from that of the North-eastern or Indo-Pacific
portion, may be explained by reference to the distribution
of currents along the Australian shores. In both, as in
the Bathymetrical regions of the South Atlantic, the
Testacea of the depths are generally smaller and less
brightly coloured than those inhabiting the shallows.

During this voyage notes of the habitats of considerably
more than a thousand species of Mollusca and Echinoder-
mata were carefully registered.

II. Enumeration or TerrestriaL Putmonirerous Mot-
LUSCA AS YET NOTICED IN AUSTRALIA.

The following Catalogue is founded on the Monograph
of Helicide by Dr. Pfeiffer. To the species therein de-
scribed are added certain new ones, announced by Pfeiffer
since the publication of his work, and others, recorded for
the first time in this volume. It will be seen that a great
part of the Australian land-shells is as yet unfigured. The
exact localities of not a few have to be determined; a
precise record was kept of the place and circumstances
under which each was found during the voyage of the
Rattlesnake. From all we yet know the genus Helix is
fairly represented in New Holland, and presents some
very remarkable and peculiar forms; Bulimus has but few,
and those (with the sole exception of B. atomatus) not
remarkable Australian members; a single Pupa, closely
resembling one of our commonest European species, is the
only recorded Australian one; and a very remarkable
addition to the terrestrial conchology of the southern
hemisphere has been made in a Balea of a type unlike
any other member of the genus.

368 APPENDIX.

HE.Ix.
1. H. Falconari, Reeve. (Conch. Syst. t. 163, f. 4).

Loc. Bellingen River, in the brushes (Macgillivray).

2. H. irradiata, Gould.
Loc. New South Wales.
3. H. Australis, Menke.

Loc. Swan River.

4. H. Georgiana, Quoy and Gaimard.

Loc. King George’s Sound.

5. H. Nove Hollandie, Gray.

Loc. Macquarie River.

6. H. Jervisensis, Quoy and Gaimard. (Voy. Astr. ii.
t. 10, f 26-30).

Loc. Jervis Bay (Quoy and Gaimard). Brisbane
Water, under logs in dry, stony, and scrubby ground
(Macgillivray).

7. H. subgranosa, Le Guillou.

Loc. North Australia.

8. H. capillacea, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 82, f. 5).

Loc. Port Jackson (Ferussac).

9. H. Jacksoniensis, Gray.

Loc. Port Jackson. May not this be H. nitida
introduced ?

10. H. Walkeri, Gray.

Loc. New Holland.

11. H. Gilberti, Pfeiffer.

Loc. Darling Downs, East Australia (Gilbert). Bris-

bane Water, under logs in the brushes (Macgillivray).
12. H. splendidula, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, ed. 2nd, t. 85,
f. 1-3.)

Loc. Eastern Australia, near Torres Strait (Ince).

Blackwood Bay, and Restoration Island (Brit. Mus.)
13. H. ziczae, Gould.
Loc. New South Wales.

APPENDIX, 369

14, H. Grayi, Pfeiffer.

Loc. East Australia.

15. Hl. macrodon, Menke. (Fer.as M. Duclosianu. Hist.
t. 51 A, f. 6).
Loc. New Holland.
16. H. vitracea, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 64, f. 5).
Loc. New Holland? (Beck).
17. H. Lessoni, Pfeiffer.

Loc. Under barkof Eucalypti, coming out after rain,
at Port Curtis (Macgillivray).

18. H. tortulus, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 27, f. 3, 4).

Loc. New Holland. Port Essington and N.W. coast
of Australia (Brit. Mus.)

19. H. Dringi, Pfeiffer.

Loc. East Coast of Australia, near Torres Strait
(Dring).

20. Al. Sinclairi, Pfeiffer.

Loc. Van Diemen’s Land (Sinclair).

21. H. semicastanea, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2nd, t. 56,
f. 3-5).
Loc. “ Unknown, probably New Holland,” Pfeiffer.
22. H. bipartita, Ferussac. (Hist.t. 75 A, f. 1).

Loc. At the roots of trees and bushes in Lizard Island,
and at Cape York (Macgillivray). Restoration Island
(Brit. Mus.)

23. H. pomum, Pfeiffer. (Phil. Icon. Helix, t. 2. f. 8).

Loc. Port Essington, about roots of trees (Macgilliv-
ray). This appears to be H. spheroidea, Le Guillou
(H. Urvillei, Homb. et Jacq. Voy. au Pole Sud. Moll.
t. 3, f. 1-3), of which Pfeitfer remarks, “an varietas
preecedentis ?”

24. Al. Janellei, Le Guillou.

Loc. North Australia.

25. H. leptogramma, Pfeiffer.
VOL. I.

370 APPENDIX.

Loc. Cygnet Bay, in North Australia (Ince).
26. H. Incei, Pfeiffer. (Phil. Icon. Helix, t. 7, f. 3).
Loc. Percy Isles, under bark ; Port Molle, and Kep-
pel’s Isles, in hollow trees (Macgillivray).
27. H. prunum, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 26, f. 7, 8).

Loc. Australia ?
28. H. pelodes, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2nd, t. 58,
f. 6, 7).
Loc. Port Essington, on trunks of melaleuca trees
(Macgillivray).

29. H. pedestris, Gould.

Loc. New South Wales.

30. HZ. similaris, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 25 B, f. 1-4).

Loc. Under decaying logs in the Frankland Isles,
chiefly dead (Macgillivray). This species appears to be
most widely diffused. It is recorded from the West
Indies and Brazil, Java, the Seychelles and Mauritius,
and Bengal and China! This is the first announcement
of it as an Australian shell. Does it make its way about
on floating timber?

31. H. Delessertiana, Le Guillou (H. Torresii, Homb.
et Jacq. Voy. au Pole Sud. Moll. t. 4, f. 24-27).

Loc. Warrior Island, Torres Strait (Le Guillou, &c.)
Nogo Island, Endeavour Strait, at roots of grass (Mac-
gillivray).

32. H. gulosa, Gould.

Loc. New South Wales.

33. H. Tuckheri, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2nd, Helix,
t. 79, f. 10-12).

Loc. Under dead leaves at roots of trees in Sunday
Island (Macgillivray). The original recorded habitat
was Sir Charles Hardy’s Islands, where also Mr. Mac-
gillivray found it in 1844. As Pfeiffer suspects, H.
cyclostomata of Le Guillou (HZ. strangulatu, Homb. et

APPENDIX. 371

Jacq. Voy. au Pole Sud. Moll. t. 6, f. 1-4), is this spe-
cies ; from Warrior Island, Torres Strait.
34. H. Cunninghami, Gray. (Griffith, An. Kingd. t. 36,
f. 4).

Loc. Darling Downs, New South Wales (Macgil-
livray); brushes near Wide Bay (Strange).

35. H. Taranaki, Gray. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2, t. 75, f. 4, 5).

Loc. Possession Island, Torres Strait (Ince).

The following are not enumerated as Australian in
the first edition of Pfeiffer’s Monograph :—

36. H. Strangei, Pfeiffer.

Loc. At Brisbane Water, New South Wales, under

logs in the brushes (Macgillivray).
37. H. Dupuyana, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2nd, Helix,
t. 124, f. 15, 16).
Loc. Bellingen River, in the brushes (Macgillivray).
38. H. pachystyla, Pfeiffer.

Loc. Facing Island, Port Curtis; Dunk Island; Cape
Upstart, at roots of bushes; Wide Bay, under bark of
Eucalyptus resinifera (Macgillivray). This fine species
was originally recorded as a native of New Zealand;
was not the supposed habitat a mistake ?

39. H. Yulei, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 6).

Loc. Port Molle (Macgillivray).

40. H. iuloidea, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 4).

Loc. Port Molle (Macgillivray).

41. H. ptycomphala, Pfeiffer.

Loc. Roots of trees among dead leaves at Cape Up-
start (Macgillivray).

42, H. Dunkiensis, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 7.)

Loc. Dunk Island (Macgillivray).

43. H. Macgillivrayi, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 3,
f. 1).
Loc. Frankland Isles (Macgillivray).

2B 2

372 APPENDIX.

44, H. Franklandiensis, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 2,
f. 2).
-Loc. Frankland Isles and Lizard Island (Macgil-
livray).
45. H. inconspicua, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 2,f. 3).
Loc. Islet in Trinity Bay (Macgillivray).
46. H. brevipila, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2, Helix t. 124,
f. 28—30).
Loc. Under dead leaves at roots of trees in Sunday
Island (Macgillivray).
4]. H. Fraseri,Gray. (Beechey’s Voy. Zool. t. 38, f. 6).
Loc. Wide Bay and Clarence River, New South
Wales, in the scrubs (Macgillivray). The true locality
of this species—first given by Beck—is thus verified.
48. H. Gerineriana, Pfeiffer.
Loc. Night Island, on trunks and branches of a Bom-
baz (Macgillivray).
49. H. sericatula, Pfeiffer.
Loc. Port Jackson (Strange).

Bou.iavs.

1. B. faba, Martyn. (Reeve Conch. Syst. t. 175, f. 13,
14).
Loc. Australian Isles? A Polynesian species.
2. B. Tuckheri, Pfeiffer.

Loc. Inhabits most of the islands on the N-.E. coast
of Australia. Among dead leaves at the roots of trees
and bushes in Fitzroy, Sunday, and Lizard Islands, and
at roots of grass in Sir Charles Hardy’s Islands (Mac-
gillivray).

3. B. Dufresnii, Leach. (Fer. Hist. t. iii. f. 1—3).

Loc. Van Diemen’s Land. Under logs and stones

(Macgillivray ).

APPENDIX. 373

4. B. atomatus, Gray. (Reeve Conch. Icon. Bulimus, t. 30,
f. 184).
Loc. New South Wales (Macgillivray). Western
Australia (Brit. Mus.)
5. B. Kingii, Gray. (Wood, Suppl. t. 7, f. 27).
Loc. Bald Head, King George’s Sound (King).
6. B. trilineatus, Quoy and Gaimard. (Voy. Astr. ii. t. 9,

f. 1—3).
Loc. Bald Head, King George’s Sound (Quoy and
Gaimard). “ Varietas pracedentis esse videtur.”
Pfeiffer.

7. B. rhodostomus, Gray.
Loc. New Holland?
8. B. indutus, Menke.
Loc. Darling Range and Mount Eliza, Swan River
(Priess).
9. B. melo, Quoy and Gaimard. Voy. Astr. ii. t. 9, f. 4—
7.)
Loc. Bald Head, King George’s Sound (Quoy and
Gaimard).
10. B. bulla, Menke.
Loc. Darling Range, Western Australia (Priess.)
11. B. inflatus, Lamarck. (Delessert Recueil. t. 28, f. 1).
Loc. New Holland (Lamarck.) New Zealand (Beck).
12. B. obtusus, Reeve. (Conch. Icon. t. 79, f. 583).
Loc. Australia.

Pura.

1. P. pacifica, Pfeiffer.

Loc. “Sir Charles Hardy’s Islands (Tucker), ”
Pfeiffer—where Mr. Macgillivray also found it about
roots of grass and bushes in 1844. Under dead leaves
at roots of trees in Sunday Island, and Lizard Island

(Macgillivray).

374 APPENDIX.

BaeEa,

1. B. Australis, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 9).
Loc. Port Molle (Macgillivray).

ViITRINA.

1. V. Cuvieri, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 9, f. 8, and t.9 A,
f.1, 2).
Loc. Australia.
2. V. Freycineti, Ferussac. (Hist. t.9 <A, f. 3, 4, 9, and
t.9 B, f. 2).
Loc. Port Jackson.
3. V. robusta, Gould.
Loc. East coast of New Holland.
4. V. nigra, Quoy and Gaimard. (Voy. Astr. ii t.11,
f. 8,9).
Loc. Port Western and King George’s Sound (Quoy
and Gaimard).
5. V. Strangei, Pfeiffer.
Loc. Under logs in the brushes at Brisbane Water,
New South Wales (Macgillivray).
6. V. Verreauxii, Pfeiffer.
Loc. Australia (Verreaux).

SuccInEa.

1. S. Australis, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 11, f. 11).
Loc. Australian Isles. Van Diemen’s Land (Quoy
and Giamard). Mount Eliza, Swan River (Priess, apud
Menke).

HELIcina.

1. H. Gouldiana, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 3, f. 3).
Loc. In the “ Two Isles” on the N.E. coast of
Australia (Macgillivray).

W HBauly. dby Hullmandel § Walton.

W. Boone, Pubhshers, London, 1852

APPENDIX. 375

Purina.
1. P. bilinguis, Pfeiffer.

Loc. About roots of trees among leaves at Cape
York (Macgillivray). Blackwood Bay, and Restoration
Island (Brit. Mus.)

2. P. Thomsoni, Forbes. (Voy. Rattlesnake, t. 3, f. 2).

Loc. Fitzroy Island (Macgillivray).

CycLostoMa.

1. C. Australe, Gray.
Loc. New Holland.
2. C. vitreum, Less. (Sowerby, Thes. Conch. t. 30, f. 252).
Loc. Dunk Island; Frankland Isles; Green Island -
on leaves and trunks of trees (Macgillivray). New
Ireland (Hinds).
3. C. bilabre, Menke.
Loc. East coast of New Holland (Lehmann).
4. C. fimbriatum, Lamarck. (Delessert Receuil. t. 29,
f. 12).
Loc. New Holland.
5. C. multilabris, Lamarck. (Delessert Receuil. t. 29,
f. 14),

Loc. New Holland. Sowerby considers this to be a
monstrosity— (of what ?)

III. Descriptions oF somME NEW Sprcizs oF SHELLS,
DISCOVERED DURING THE VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE.

Hexix Brumeriensts. Tab. ii. fig. 1. a, b.

Testa imperforata, globosa-conoidea, crassa, levigata
(sub lente granulato-striata) alba, ad aperturam nigra ;

376 APPENDIX.

spira obtusa, conoidea; aufractus 4, convexiusculi, rapide
accrescentes, ultimus basi subcompressus; apertura per-
obliqua, oblonga, intus alba; peristoma late reflexum,
nigrum. Diam. maj. 28, min. 23, alt. 23, millem. (Mus.
Brit.)

This remarkable shell resembles a dwarf H. hemastoma
in shape; it is of a porcelain white except at the aperture,
which has a broad reflexed lip of a deep brown-black hue,
both within and without. It is a very interesting species,
indicative of the Indian affinities of the New Guinea
fauna. A single specimen was taken in August 1849, on
a bread-fruit tree in Brumer Island, S.E. coast of New
Guinea.

Hewix pivisa. Tab. ii. fig. 5. a, b.

Testa obtecte perforata, lenticulari-depressa, orbicularis,
carinata, crassiuscula, superne fulva, radiato-striata, minu-
tissime granulata, carina acuta, superne subcrenulata, basi
convexa, nitidissima, griseo-albida, radiatim substriata ad
umbilicum declivens; spira convexiuscula; anfractus 5,
planulati; apertura angulato-lunaris, intus margaritacea ;
peristoma simplex, basi incrassatum, ad columellam ex-
pansiusculum. Diam. maj. 23, min. 20, alt. 1], mill.
(Mus. Brit.)

A Helix of the Caracolla section, allied to the C. pa-
nayensis of Broderip. Found on the ground at the roots
of trees, in the South-East Island of the Louisiade Archi-
pelago.

Heurx Lovistapensis. Tab. i. fig. 8. a, b.

Testa imperforata, globoso-turbinata, solidiuscula, sub
lente rugosa, albida, fasciis variis purpureo-fuscis ornata ;
spira conoidea, rubescens ; anfrac. 5 convexiusculi, ultimus
magnus, paululum deflexus ; apertura ovata, intus nitide

fod

APPENDIX. 377

livida, peristoma expansum, reflexum, sordide violaceum,
margine externo sinuato, columellari incrassato, dilatato,
subsulcato. Diam. maj. 26, miu. 21, alt. 20, mill. (Mus.
Brit.)

This remarkable snail has a tendency towards a trochi-
band on the body whorl marking its most prominent
portion just below the centre. The sinuation of the
outer lip and impression of the whorl behind the peristome,
give a slightly ringent aspect to the mouth. It is very
distinct from any known species; its affinities are more
with Australian than with Philippine forms. It was
taken on a tree in the South-East Island of the Louisiade
Archipelago.

Heuix Yurer. Tab. ui. fig. 6. a, b.

Testa profunde umbilicata, depresso-globosa, solida,
striata, sub epidermide fulvo-alba, fasciis castaneis cingu-
lata; spira sub-depressa, obtusa; anfractus 6 con-
vexiusculi; apertura subcircularis; peristoma nigrum,
expansum, margine basali reflexo, columellari dilatato,
umbilicum subtegente. Diam. maj. 37, min. 27, alt. 25,
mill. (Mus. Brit.)

This handsome species is of a rich fulvous hue, with
dark chestnut bands and a deep chestnut umbilicus, partly
covered by the reflexion of the nearly black lip. It is
allied to the H. Incei, a well known north-east Australian
species. It was found in hollow trees, and under logs
and stones at Port Molle, in the same region.

Heuix Maceiruivrayi. Tab. iii. fig. 1.

Testa imperforata, trochiformis, carinata, striis minutis
spiralibus ornata, pallide fusco-carnea, punctis nigris albo-
occellatis sparsa; spira conica; anfractus 6 planati,

378 APPENDIX.

ultimus carinatus, basi subplanatus; apertura oblique
oblonga, intus brunnea, margine externo bisinuato ; peris-
toma album, incrassatum, infra reflexum; columella basi
rufescens. Diam. maj. 23, min. 19, alt. 21, mill. (Mus.
Brit. and Geol.)

Of all Australian Helices, this is perhaps the most
curious. Its outline and aspect are singularly like those
of a Trochus of the Ziziphinus group. The colour is also
very singular, being a yellowish flesh hue deepening on
the base to rich brownish-yellow, and speckled irregularly
with minute black dots which are areolated with white,
the white ring being largest on the side towards the
mouth. The fine striz that encircle the body are also
very curious. The outer lip of the aperture seems as if it
had been dented in two places. Behind the white
thickened peristome, internally is a dark brown band,
which is seen through the shell as a dark blackish green
stripe. The edge of the outer lip declines to join the body
whorl a little below the keel. It was found on trunks and
branches of trees in the Frankland Isles.

Heuix Dunxrensis- Tab. ii. fig. 7. a, b.

Testa umbilicata, depresso-globosa, subcarinata, solida,
radiato striata et subtilissime granulata, flavida; spira late
depressa, convexiuscula, apice obtusa; anfractus 6 con-
vexiusculi, ultimo obsolete carinato; apertura lunaris,
intus alba; peristoma superne rectum, margine basali
margine columellarique sub-reflexis, umbilicus profundus,
conspicuus, vix obtectus. Diam. maj. 24, min. 21, alt. 16,
mill, (Mus. Brit.)

This snail strikingly resembles some lyrian forms. It
has affinities with H. coriaria, a species said to be from
Ceylon. It was taken under stones and about roots of
trees in Dunk Island, on the N.E. coast of Australia,

APPENDIX. 379

Heuix Franguanpiensis. Tab. ii. fig. 2. a, b.

Testa aperte-umbilicata, tumido-depressa, nitidissima,
superne radiatim striata, cornea, fasciis angustis transversis
distantibus fulvis; spira angusta; anfractus 5 planiusculi,
ultimus rotundatus, antice vix descendentes ; apertura ro-
tundata; peristoma simplex, vix acutum, rectum, margine
columellari non reflexo. Diam. maj. 26, min. 21, alt.
14 mill. (Mus. Brit.)

This beautiful snail is of a brightly shining yellowish or
greenish horn colour. The whorls of its spire are small,
but the body whorl, whilst preserving a wide diameter
throughout, gradually increases in trumpet-like manner to
the round mouth. It belongs to the same group with H.
olivetorum and H. nitida, and is allied to the Australian
HI. ptycomphala. It occurs about the roots of trees in the
Frankland and Lizard Islands.

Heuix rutomea. Tab. ii. fig. 4. a, b,c, d.

Testa late et perspective umbilicata, orbicularis, superne
depressa seu subconcava, rufo-cornea, regulariter costulata ;
anfractus 44 convexiusculi, wltimus tumidus, rotundatus ;
apertura lunaris ; peristoma simplex, acutum. Diam. maj.
4}, min. 4, alt. 3 mill. (Mus. Brit. & Geol.)

This curious little snail, resembling a rolled-up Julus,
and reminding us of our own H. rotundata and its allies,
was found under a stone at Port Molle.

Hexrx inconspicua. Tab. ii. fig. 3. a, b, c.

Testa perforata, depresso-convexa, laevigata, nitidiuscula,
pallide cornea, basi subcompressa; anfractus 6, planius-
culi; spira obtusa; apertura lunaris; peristoma rectum,
simplex, margine columellari reflexo: umbilicus minutus,
subobtectus. Diam. maj. 8—min. 7—alt. 5 mill. (Mus.
Brit.)

380 APPENDIX.

A very inconspicuous ordinary-looking little shell, its
upper surface recalling the aspect of H. alliaria but with
more convexity and no lustre, and its base that of H. erys-
tallina. It was found, apparently gregarious, under dead
leaves in an islet in Trinity Bay.

Batea austratis. Tab. ii. fig. 9. a, b.

Testa dextrorsa, rimata, subcylindracea, turrita, decollata,
dense capillaceo-costulata, corneo-lutea, maculis obscuris
flavidis ; sutura impressa; anfractus 11, couvexiusculi;
apertura pyriformis, columella triplicata, plica inferior
maxima, conspicua, elevata, acuta, spiralis; peristoma con-
tinuum, solutum. Long. 18—Diam. 4—Apert 4 mill.
(Mus. Brit. & Geol.)

This very remarkable shell, the first of its genus dis-
covered in Australia, differs from all its congeners. It has
exactly the aspect of a Clausilia, but the mouth is not
furnished with a clausium. It was found under stones at
Port Molle.

Purina GRANDIS. Tab. ii. fig. 10. a, b, c, d.

Testa ovato-subcylindrica, superne levigata, inferne
rugulosa, sordide-rufa ; spira obtusa; anfractus 6, secundus ©
tumidus, obliquus, ultimus super aperturam planatus;
apertura rotundata ; peristoma lete aurantiacum, rimatum,
crassum, dorsaliter canaliculatum, infra columellari, pro-
funde sinuatum et in canali contorto excavatum; canalis
alter minutus ad partem superiorem et externam aperture ;
callus columellaris expansus, appressus. Long. 30, Diam.
15, Apert. 7 mill. (Mus. Brit. & Geol.)

This, the giant of its genus, is perhaps the most remark-
able land shell discovered during the voyage. It differs
from all other Pupine in having an unpolished surface.
It was found in the South-East Island of the Louisiade

TAB ashy

by Eclimandel & Walox

B52.

London, i

APPENDIX. - 381

Archipelago, under dead leaves chiefly about the roots of
trees.

Purina Tuomsonr. Tab. iii. fig. 2. a, b.

Testa ovata, polita, nitidissima, translucens, hyalina,
solidiuscula ; spira obtusa ; anfractus 5, duo ultimi majores ;
apertura orbicularis; peristoma album, crassum, solutum,
canalibus duobus interruptum ; canalis superior ad partem
superiorem et externam aperture, inferior major, basalis,
marginibus disjunctis et in dorsum anfractus prolongatis.
Long. 73, diam. 44, apert. 2 mill. (Mus. Brit.)

This remarkable and beautiful little Pupina is most
nearly allied to the P. bilinguis of Cape York. From
that species (which is larger) it differs, however, very ma-
terially, most especially in the position of the inferior or
basal canal of the aperture which is here placed like the
canal of a whelk, but in P. dilinguis is very small and
placed high up, cutting as it were the columella. The
curious manner in which the margins of the canals are
prolonged on the back of the body whorl like parallel and
somewhat diverging walls is also a singular feature of this
species, which is dedicated to Dr. Thomson, surgeon of the
Rattlesnake, and an excellent botanist. It was found among
dead leaves at the roots of trees in Fitzroy Island.

Heurcina Stanteyi. Tab. ii. fig. 4. a, b.

Testa lenticularis, swperne inferneque convexa, orbicu-
laris, acute carinata, fusco-carnea, spiraliter striata ; spira
obtusa ; anfractus 44 leviter convexiusculi; basis imper-
forata, centraliter levigata, alba; apertura oblique sublu-
nata, angulata; peristoma simplex, tenue. Diam. maj.

2, min. 6, alt. 5 mill. (Mus. Brit.)

Found on the leaves and trunks of trees and bushes
(especially Scevola Kenigii) in the Duchateau Isles,

382 APPENDIX.

Louisiade Archipelago. Dedicated to the late Captain
Owen Stanley, R.N.

Heticina Lovistapensts. ‘Tab. iii. fig. 5. a, b.

Testa depresso-globosa, superne inferneque convexa,
orbicularis, obsolete sub-angulata, pallide aurantiaca, sub
lente spiraliter striata; spira obtusa; anfractus 4}, vix
convexiusculi; basis imperforata, centraliter sub-impressa ;
apertura lunata, inferne subangulata; peristoma incras-
satum, aurantiacum, reflexum. Diam. maj. 44, min. 4,
alt. 3 mill. (Mus. Brit.)

On Round Island in Coral Haven, Louisiade Archipelago,
under stones. This pretty little Helicina is nearly allied
to some Philippine species.

Heticina Govutprana. Tab. iii. fig. 3. a, b.

Testa depresso-globosa, superne sub-conica, orbicularis,
obsolete subangulata, flava seu rufa, spiraliter striata;
spira prominens; anfractus 5, planati; basis imperforata ;
apertura sub-lunata, inferne angulata; peristoma incras-
satum, subreflexum, album. Diam. maj. 6, min. 5}, alt.
43 mill. (Mus. Brit.)

Under the bark of Mimusops Kaukii, in the “Two
Isles,” on the N.E. coast of Australia. Dedicated to the
indefatigable illustrator of Australian ornithology.

RaNELLA PULCHELLA. Tab. iii. fig. 6. a, b.

Testa turrita, utroque alata, acute-caudata, alba; an-
fractus tumidi, spiraliter striati, longitudinaliter noduloso-
costati, costis crebris, lateraliter varicosi, varices compressi,
aliformes, crenulati, striati, ad margines crenati; apertura
ovato-rotunda, inferne longe-caudata; peristoma solutum.
Long. 20, diam. 14, apert.4 mill. (Mus. Brit.)

This beautiful shell was dredged in from 8 to 11 fathoms
water, on a bottom of sand and shells between Cumberland
Island 1.i, and Point Slade (Lat. 21° S. Long. 149° 20’ E).

APPENDIX. 383

The spiral strize that cross its whorls are grouped in pairs ;
their interstices are raised, and more or less finely crenu-
lated; as they pass out on the expanded and wing-like
varices they diverge, and the lobe-like projections that
scallop the margins of the wings are separated from each
other by each pair of diverging strie. The fine ribs that
cross the whorls are not present on the wings, nor on the
back; they are nodulated at their decussation with the
raised striz. The wing-like varices of the whorls overlap
each other alternately on each side of the shell. The only
species to which it has affinity is the FR. pulchra.

Scataria JuKEstana. Tab. ii. fig. 7.

Testa lanceolato-turrita, gracilis, alba, levis, nitida, lon-
gitudinaliter costata, costis lamellosis, reflexis, simplicibus,
numerosis (in ult. anfrac. 20); anfractus 11, tumidi;
sutura profunde impressa; varices nulli; apertura orbi-
cularis, margine levi. Long. 13, Diam. max. 14, apert
3 mill. (Mus. Brit.)

This beautiful little Scalaria is deserving of particular
notice on account of the analogy and representation which
it exhibits with the S. clathratulus of the seas of the
Northern Hemisphere. It is dedicated to the author of
the Voyage of the Fly.

New Genus—Maceitiiveayia, Forbes.

Shell spiral, dextral, globular, thin, corneous, transparent,
(in the only known species smooth or marked by obscure
lines of growth) imperforate; spire not produced (with a
sinistral nucleus?). Aperture oblong, entire, angulated
below; peristome incomplete, thin, even-edged.

Operculum semicircular, horny, thin, composed of con-
centric layers with faint traces of a spiral structure at
the centro-lateral nucleus, which is on the columellar

384 APPENDIX.

side; from it there runs a strait rib or process continued
nearly to the outer margin, and indicated externally by a
depression or groove.

Animal ample, provided with four very long and rather
broad linear rugose (or ciliated?) tentacula; mantle pro-
duced into a long siphon; foot very large, expanded, trun-
cate in front, bearmg the operculum near its posterior
extremity, but not accompanied by filamentous processes
or lobes. A fioat. (Mus. Brit. and Geol.)

This very remarkable mollusk was taken in the towing
net off Cape Byron, on the east coast of Australia, in Lat.
28° 40’ §S., fifteen miles from the shore. It was floating
and was apparently gregarious. Mr. Macgillivray states
that it is furnished with a float in the manner of Lanthina.
The largest specimens measure rather less than two lines
in diameter. The shell is of a yellow horn colour (as is
also the operculum), thin and transparent. It bears a
striking resemblance to our much more minute Jeffreysia
opalina. The four tentacula and the form of the very
peculiar operculum also seem to indicate considerable
affinity with the genus Jeffreysia of Alder, and an ex-
amination of the remains of the tongue extracted from a
dried specimen shewed an arrangement and form of the
lingual denticles very closely resembling that exhibited by
Jeffreysia. On the other hand, the very distinct and long
siphonal tube delineated in Mr. Macgillivray’s drawing,
taken when the animal was alive, would seem to refer this
genus to some family probably near to Cancellaride. It
is certainly entirely distinct in every respect from any
known Gasteropod. It is a form of very great interest to
the geologist, for in it we see the nearest representation of
certain paleozoic (especially Lower Silurian) univalves
hitherto referred to Littorina, but which, judging from
their associates and the indications afforded by the strata

APPENDIX. 385

in which they are found, were assuredly either inhabitants
of deep water or floaters in a great ocean like the Pacific.

I have dedicated this most interesting creature to my
friend Mr. Macgillivray, its discoverer, whose researches
have been productive of so much new and valuable con-
tributions to all departments of zoological science.

I have named the species MZ. pelagica. Tab. iii. fig. 8.
a, b,c, d. (Mus. Brit. and Geol.)

New Genus—Cue tetroris, Forbes.

Shell spiral, turbinate, dextral, imperforate, spirally
ridged or double-keeled and transversely wrinkled; spire
prominent, its nucleus sinistral; aperture ovate, canalicu-
lated below, its outer margin furnished with two claw-like
lobes, the one central and formed by a prolongation of the
margin between the keels of the body whorl, the other
smaller and nearer the canal; peristome thickened, re-
flexed, forming a conspicuous margin.

Operculum none ?

Animal unknown, but certainly floating, and probably
pteropodous. This I infer from its habits, and from the
analogy of the shell with Spirialis. (Mus. Brit. & Geol.)

The only known species, C. Husleyi, (dedicated to Mr.
Huxley, Assistant Surgeon of the Rattlesnake, and now
eminent for the admirable anatomical researches among
marine invertebrata which he conducted during the voyage,)
is very minute, being not more than the ~,th of an inch
in diameter. It is translucent and of a brownish-white
hue. Its aspect is that of a Turbo in miniature. The
whorls are tumid, the spire prominent; the body whorl is
belted by two prominent keels, one of which is continued
on the whorls of the spire: between, above, and below
these keels are transverse membranous raised ridges, which
in the central division of the body whorl are curved for-

VOL. II. 2c

386 APPENDIX.

wards. This curvature corresponds with the projection of
the curious incurved claw-like lobe that proceeds from the
central portion of the lower lip. Towards the base of the
aperture is a second and similar but smaller lobe, below
which is the short but broad and well-marked canal. The
entire lip is marginated by the thickened and reflected
peristome. I believe this curious floating shell will throw
some light on the true nature and habits of several pa-
leozoic types. It was taken in the towing net, gregarious,
in the sea off Cape Howe, the south-east corner of Aus-
tralia. Tab. ui. fig. 9. a, b.

Contents oF Piates oF New SHELLS.

Tab. II. Tab. III.

Fig. 1. Helix Brumeriensis Fig. 1. Helix Macgillivrayi
2. Franklandiensis 2. Pupina Thomsoni
3 inconspicua 3. Helicina Gouldiana
4 iuloides 4. Stanleyt
5 divisa 5. Louisiadensis
6. Yulei 6. Ranella pulchra
7. —— Dunkiensis 9. Scalaria Jukesiana
8 Louistadensis 8. Macgillivrayia pela-
9. Balea Australis gica

10. Pupina grandis 9. Cheletropis Huxleyi

tanl

chyrhynehus

Wing, ad mabith

APPENDIX. 387

No. VI.

DESCRIPTIONS
Or SOME
APPARENTLY NEW SPECIES OF ANNULOSA,
(COLLECTED BY MR. MACGILLIVRAY DURING THE
VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE,)
BY

ADAM WHITE, F.L.S.,

ASSISTANT ZOOLOGICAL DEPARTMENT, BRITISH MUSEUM.

Amone the very numerous Insects and Crustacea, col-
lected by Mr. Macgillivray during the voyage of the
Rattlesnake, the following have been selected for illus-
tration; references to and descriptions of some of the
Diptera, Homoptera, and Hemiptera, collected by him,
have appeared in the Catalogues of the British Museum
drawn up by Messrs. Walker and Dallas, while the names
and descriptions of others will appear in catalogues in
preparation. A fine species of the class Crustacea, dis-
covered by him, has been described and figured in the
Illustrated Proceedings of the Zoological Society. (Cancer
[Galene] dorsalis, White.)

Insects. CoLEOPTERA.

Chrysodema pistor, Laporte and Gory. Buprestide,
+. 6, f 33.
Hab. Australia (Cape Upstart). Mr. Macgillivray in-
forms me, that the specimens of this species were observed
by him coming out of a dead tree (Casuarina).

9oe 2

388 APPENDIX.

Pacuyruyncuus Stanteyanus.* Tab. iv. fig. 1, 2.

Pachyrhynchus nigerrimus, maculis parvis squamosis plu-

rimis viridiscenti-albidis.

Hab. Pariwara Islands, New Guinea. Four specimens.

Head between the eyes somewhat rugose, some of the
rugose punctures with pale greenish white scales ; an abbre-
viated longitudinal impressed line down the front. Beak
short and thick (somewhat asin Pachyrhynchus Cumingii,
Waterhouse). Thorax irregularly and somewhat coarsely
punctured, the sides somewhat wrinkled in front, the
punctures scaled, a triangular depression on the posterior
part of thorax, the bottom is covered with scales, at least
in some specimens, and there are three spots similarly
scaled and placed somewhat transversely: the Elytra
with eight to ten punctured lines, running somewhat irre-
gularly, especially towards the sides, each elytra with ten,
twelve, or more spots of scales, arranged longitudinally in
spots on the sides, and largest towards the end. Under
side of the mesothorax and metathorax with many greenish
scales. Legs thick, polished, and with scattered grey hairs
proceeding from the punctures.

T have named this somewhat “mourning” Pachyrhynchus
after Captain Owen Stanley and his father, the late vene-
rable Bishop of Norwich and President of the Linnean
Society. Both of these gentlemen were fond of natural
history, especially the father, who was a good observer of the
habits of birds. The son, Captain Owen Stanley, was an
accurate, though not very practised draughtsman; and I
recollect with pleasure his pomting out to me, at one of
the soirees at Brook Street, a volume of sketches (coloured)

* In memoriam Owen Stanley, in classe Britannica Navarchi, species hec
distincta et peculiaris nominatur.

APPENDIX. 389

made by him on one of his voyages, in which objects of
natural history were ably introduced. He encouraged
natural history researches.

HyMENOPTERA.

TRIGONALYS CoMPRESsuS. Smith. Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond.
n.ser.I.p. . pl. 16. f. 2.
Sphex compressa. De Geer. Mem. 111.
Trigonalys bipustulatus. Smith (olim) Ann. & Mag.
Nat. Hist. VII. (1851.)

Hab. Nest of Polistes Lanio. Brazil.

Among the Hymenoptera, few genera have created
greater dispute than the anomalous genus Trigonalys of
Westwood. Mr. Macgillivray one day brought to the
British Museum the nest of a Brazilian Polistes. My
friend, Mr. Frederick Smith, is well known for his profound
knowledge of the Hymenoptera, Exotic and British, which,
though he has studied them only fourteen years, are better
known to him, perhaps, than to any other liviag Entomolo-
gist ;—the instant that he looked at the nest, he exclaimed,
“Why, here is Z’rigonalys !” and certainly a large, black-
headed creature, not very like Polistes, protruded from one
of the cells. Mr. Smith, on the 7th April, 1851, communi-
cated this piece of information to the Entomological Society
of London, and in their Transactions his brief memoir was
lately printed. I cannot do better than give it in Mr.
Smith’s own words. Mr. Smith, subsequently to the reading
of the paper, ascertained that the species had been described
in the great work of De Geer, a book of which it would be
well to have a condensed new edition. Mr. Smith says:

“ John Macgillivray, Esq., Naturalist to Her Majesty’s Ship Rattlesnake,
lately presented to the British Museum the nest of a South American species
of Polistes, which he says is very abundant at St. Salvador, where even in the
streets it attaches its nest under the eaves of houses; the species is the

390 APPENDIX.

Polistes Lanio of Fabricius, and in all probability the Vespa Canadensis of
Linnzus; a specimen of the species is preserved in the Banksian Cabinet.
On examining the nest, I found it consisted as usual of a single comb of cells,
having in the centre at the back a short footstalk, by which the nests are
attached in their position ; the comb contained sixty-five cells, the outer ones
being in an unfinished state, whilst twenty-two of the central ones had remains
of exuvie in them, and one or two closed cells contained perfect insects ready
to emerge; about half a dozen of the wasps had the anterior portion of their
bodies buried in the cells, in the manner in which these insects are said to
repose. In one cell I observed the head of an insect evidently of a different
species, it being black and shining. On extricating it, I discovered it to be
a species of Trigonalys ; I subsequently carefully expanded the insect, and it
proved to be the Trigonalys bipustulatus, described by myself in the Ann.
and Mag. of Natural History, vol. vii., 2nd Series, 1851, from a specimen
captured at Para by Mr. Bates, now in the possession of William Wilson
Saunders, Esq. The insect was not enveloped in any pellicle, nor had the
cell been closed in any way; the wings were crumpled up at its side, as is
usual in Hymenopterous insects which have not expanded them, proving satis-
factorily that it had never quitted the cell, and that Trigonalys is the parasite
of Polistes.

This discovery is one of much interest, proving the relationship of the insect
to be amongst the pupivora, to which family it had been previously assigned
by Mr. Westwood, see Vol. III. Ent. Trans. p. 270. The specimen is seven
lines in length, entirely black, the head shining, the thorax and abdomen
opaque, and having two white macule touching the apical margin of the basal
segment above ; the wings are smoky, the antenne broken off. Of one of them
I found subsequently seventeen joints—the perfect insect in the possession of
Mr. Saunders having twenty joints.’’

LEPIDOPTERA.
Drusilla Mylecha, Tab. iv. fig. 1, 2.

This fine butterfly* was found flying in considerable
plenty in the woods of one of the islands of the Louisiade
Archipelago ; it forms a very interesting addition to a
genus, of which but few species are known, and is allied to
the Drusilla Catops of Dr. Boisduval, described and figured

* Described (but not figured) by Mr. Westwood, in the Transactions of the
Entomological Society of London, New Series, Vol. I., p. 175 (1851), from

Mr. M.’s specimens in the British Museum. Mr. W. felt anxious to
describe this striking Drusilla.

eo oo

OOM EQOTEH e[[eueleorog | SUI AA WEIAUTL) FEY] SHILIO.TeD OYE UL) |

APPENDIX. 391

in the “ Voyage de l’Astrolabe.’ The upper sides of the
wings of the Drusilla Mylecha are of a pure white with a
silky lustre, the front edge of the fore wings margined
with deep brown both above and below; in the male there
is a slender white line on the upper side running close
to the edge, and extending beyond the middle of it; the
two discoidal veins in the male are brown on the upper
side, and the edge of the upper side of the lower wings is
brown. The under side of the lower wings has a dark
brown band at the base, widest close to the attachment of
the wing and narrowing to a large ocellus which it sur-
rounds in the form of a narrow brown ring; the black
ocellus has a very small white pupil with a slight bluish
crescent on the inside, and is surrounded by a fulvous ring ;
there is a second black ocellus nearer the hind edge than
the middle, with a small white pupil and a wideish fulvous
ring, separated from the white of the wing by a narrow
brown ring; head, antennz, legs, and thorax in front
brown; palpi fulvous.

The figures are of the size of nature, and carefully drawn
by Mr. Wing.

Eusemia Mariana, Tab. iv. fig. 3, 4.

E. alis cerulescenti-nigris ; anticis albo-fasciatis et macu-
latis, posticis croceo-maculatis.*

Upper wings black, with a slight bluish tinge; a wide
band extends across the wing before the middle; it is
white with a slight yellowish tint, at the lower edge of the
wing it is abruptly narrowed; behind the middle of the
wing, and between it and the tip, are from five to six pale
yellowish white spots, the four or five outermost the
smallest, and one or two of them sometimes obsolete ;

* Filice mew ‘‘ Marian Frances White,’” speciem hanc pulchram d.d.
descriptor.

392 APPENDIX.

between the base and the band a narrow bluish grey line
extends across the wing, and behind the band, at an equal
distance, there is another short, waved, bluish grey line
running down to the inner margin. The margins of the
band and spots are bluish grey. The lower wing is
narrowly black at the base, with a transverse band of a
king’s yellow colour ; this is the widest on the inner edge,
near its outer end there is an angular black spot; the
apical half of the wing is black, with numerous king’s
yellow spots arranged in two lines, two spots about the
middle connected and notched with black. Head, thorax,
and base of abdomen black, rest of abdomen of a king’s
yellow colour.

Mr. Macgillivray took two specimens of this fine species.
One flew on board when the ship was to the north of Cape
Weymouth; the other was taken at Cape York: the
figure is of the natural size.

Cocytia Durvillii, Boisd. Monog. des Zygénides, t. 1, fig. 1.

This is an abundant species in the Louisiade Archi-
pelago, flying on shore in the daytime among trees (as
D’Urville remarked it did in New Guinea) ; and it fre-
quently came on board the Rattlesnake, even when dis-
tant from the shore two or three miles. It flies heavily
like a moth, and is easily caught. This beautiful insect is
one of the finest found by Mr. Macgillivray. Only three
specimens are recorded : those discovered by Admiral d’ Ur-
ville, and described by Dr. Boisduval; Mr. M. brought
home two, deposited with the rest of his collection in the
British Museum.

APPENDIX. 393

Crustacea. Matacosrraca: Drcaropa.

Ommatocarcinus Macgillivrayt. Tab. v. fig. 1.

Carapace more than twice as wide as long ; the sides in
front extended into a long slightly bent spine. The frontal
portion between the pedicles of the eyes is narrow, much
as in Macrophthalmus, it slopes down towards the mouth,
and is deeply notched at the sides for the reception of the
eyes; the fore-edge is doubly notched in the middle, there
being a slight tooth between the emarginations. The
epistome not so prominent as the lower margin of the
orbit ; the inner antenne, with the basal joint, long (the
others broken off). The eye-pedicles very long and cylin-
drical, thickest at the base, slightly bent, somewhat thick-
ened towards the end, so long, that, when bent back, the
eye extends a little beyond the end of the spine. Mouth
formed nearly as in Gonoplax, the third joint of the jaw-
feet wider than long. Abdomen seven-jointed, the first
joint scarcely visible, shaped much as in Gonoplax, but
rather wider, the base of the terminal joint longer than
the sides. Anterior legs two and a half times as long as
the Carapace, measuring it from spine to spine, the arm
long and triangular, the upper portion more or less thickly
covered with small papille, and having a nearly obliterated
spine about the middle; the wrist smooth, roundish, with
alarge blunt tooth on the inside; hands somewhat flat-
tened, widest at the base of the claws, with a broad ridge
on the inside, the edge of it rough with small papille ;
the upper edge of hand rough with small papille; the
claws lap over each other at the tips, and are irregularly
toothed on the inside; the fixed claw of the right hand
bent at the base, so as to leave a considerable space when
the other is closed upon it; upper part of arm, hand, and
moveable claw pretty thickly spotted with red, epistome

394 APPENDIX.

orbits and greater part of the upper surface of carapace
spotted with red, sides and hind part of carapace white ;
upper edge of the orbit covered with small papille; a
tolerably prominent ridge extends across the carapace
before the middle. Four hind pairs of legs long, slender,
compressed, the upper edges of the second and third pairs
fringed with hairs, as well as the lower edge of the two
terminal joints, the claws long, thin, and somewhat bent.

Hab. Port Curtis. Shoal-water, mud-banks.

This fine Crustacean is allied to Gonoplax and Curto-
notus ; and being one of the most prominent species sent
home by Mr. Macgillivray, is selected for description
here; the figure is of the size of nature.

Porcellanella triloba. Tab. v. fig. 2.

Carapace somewhat flattened, the front produced into
three large teeth or lobes; the intermediate the widest
and most prominent; the sides of the outer lobes rounded
before the eye; carapace longer than wide, widest a little
behind the insertion of the antennz, the upper surface
smooth, polished, with some transverse scratched lines,
which are slight and irregular, they are most observable
in front and on the sides, behind it is somewhat notched
in the middle. External antenne long, longer than twice
the breadth of the carapace, inserted in a sinus behind the
eye, the basal portion formed of three joints, the first
projecting beyond the sides of the carapace, the second
wider and longer than the first, third short and thick at
the end; the terminal part of antennz long, thread-like,
and formed of very numerous articulations ; the eyes large,
and with a short pedicel. Anterior legs long and smooth,
the pincers overlapping each other at the end, their inner
edge rough, scarcely toothed; from before the base of the
inside of the moveable claw a thickish line of hairs extends

APPENDIX. 395

about half way down the hands, which bulge, and are
rounded on the inside, but on the outside are straightish
or slightly waved, and rather sharply keeled; the second,
third, and fourth pairs of legs are somewhat compressed,
and terminate in claws with four longish hooks on the
inside; posterior pair of legs folded over the back, nar-
row, with the second joint somewhat bent upwards.

This curious species was dredged by Mr. Macgillivray
off Cape Capricorn, in lat. 23° 25’ S. long. 151° 12’ E., in
15 fathoms, the bottom beimg muddy sand and shells. It
is allied to the species of the second section of the genus
Porcellana, as detailed by Professor Milne Edwards in the
second volume of the “ Histoire Naturelle des Crustacés,”
but has characters sufficient to constitute a new subgenus,
to which may be applied the name Porcellanella. The
figure represents it of twice its natural size.

P. 8.—The figures have been carefully drawn from the
originals by Mr. William Wing, so well known as a
Zoological Draughtsman, and will at once explain my
imperfect descriptions.

THE END.

G. NORMAN, PRINTER, MAIDEN LANE, COVENT GARDEN,

LIBRARY OF

AUSTRALIAN TRAVELS, «ce.
PUBLISHED BY T. AND W. BOONE,

29, NEW BOND STREET.

Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Plates, some coloured,

NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION

INTO

CENTRAL AUSTRALIA,
BY ORDER OF HER MAJESTY’S GOVERNMENT,

Durine THE YEARS 1844, 5, 6,

With Notices of the Colony of South Australia.
BY CAPTAIN CHARLES STURT,

LATE 39TH Ree.
COLONIAL TREASURER, AND
AuTHoR oF “Two EXPEDITIONS INTO SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA.”

The character of the far interior of Australia had long been a most interesting
Geographical problem, many imagining the centre to be occupied by a large inland
sea, others conjecturing that it was an arid desert, which opinion was further
strengthened by Mr. Eyre’s unsuccessful endeavour to penetrate higher than the 29th
degree of latitude in his expedition during the years 1840 and 1. Captain Sturt, so
appropriately denominated the ‘“‘ Father of Australian Discovery,” in consequence of
being the first traveller to explore the rivers Murray, Murrumbidgee, Bogan, and
Castlereagh, volunteered to conduct a party into the interior to determine this impor-
tant question. With the approbation of Lord Stanley, the Colonial Minister, he
accordingly started in the year 1844, and, after a series of unparalleled privations,
succeeded in reaching the centre of the Continent in a line direct north of Adelaide.
The journal of this perilous Expedition gives an account of the remarkable Stony
Desert, the bed of Luke Torrens, descriptions of the Natives and their villages, and
the discovery of several small rivers, &c.; added to which, his observations and col-
lections on the Natural History have since been arranged by R. Brown, Esq. and
J. Gould, Esq. in the form of an Appendix.

“The details of this romantic and perilous Expedition are replete with interest.
From the numerous and lengthened expeditions he has undertaken, and the general
intelligence and scientific skill he brings to bear upon the question, we know of no
recent traveller in Australia whose opinions are entitled to more weight.—The portion
of the work which refers to the Colony of South Australia is particularly valuable to
intending emigrants.”—Morning Herald.

2 Published by T. & W. Boonz, 29, New Bond Street.

JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY

IN
NORTH-WEST AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA,
DURING THE YEARS 18387, 1838, anp 1839,
Under the Authority of her Majesty’s Government.

With Observations on the Agricultural and Commercial Capabilities and Prospects
of several newly-explored fertile Regions, including

AUSTRALIND,

and on the Moral and Physical Condition of the Aboriginal Inhabitants, &c. &c.

By GEORGE GREY, Esea., pare Caprain 83RD Reet.

FORMERLY GOVERNOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA, NOW GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND.

With Two large Maps by J. Arrowsmith, and numerous Illustrations,
some coloured, in 2 vols. 8vo.

“It is not with the slightest hope of satisfying curiosity, or to anticipate the interest
which the public in general, and geographers especially, always feel in enterprises of
this nature, but merely tu give such a sketch of the principal features of the expedition
as may serve to direct those who are desirous of obtaining information respecting a
portion of this remarkable country—hitherto only visited by Tasman, Dampier, Baudin,
and King, and never before, we believe, penetrated by an European—to look forward
to the detailed journals of the spirited officers who had the conduct of the expedition.”

From Geographical Transactions.

A great portion of the country described in this Journal has never before been visited
by any European. The Eastern coast of Short’s Bay was for the first time seen and
explored during the progress of these expeditions.

“ We have rarely seen a more interesting book ; it is full of splendid description and
startling personal adventure; written in a plain, manly, unaffected style.”— Examiner.

“¢ It is impossible to have perused these highly interesting and important volumes
without being inspired with feelings of warm admiration for the indomitable perseve-
rance and heroical self-devotion of their gallant and enterprising author. Setting
aside the vastly important results of Captain Grey’s several expeditions, it is hardly
possible to conceive narratives of more stirring interest than those of which his volumes
are for the most part composed.”— United Service Gazette.

«¢ We have not read sucha work of Travels for many years ; it unites the interest of
a romance with the permanent qualities of an historical and scientific treatise.”— Atlas.

«We recommend our readers to the volumes of Captain Grey, assuring them they
will derive both amusement and instruction fromthe perusal.” —Times.

‘* This is a work deserving high praise. As a book of Travels it is one of the most
interesting we remember to have met with.” — Westminster Review.

“ A book which should be in every lending library and hook-club. m
Eng

"8
“The contents of these interesting volumes will richly repay an attentive perusal. &
Emigration Gazette.
“These narratives are replete with interest, and blend information and amusement
in a very happy manner.”—Australian Magazine.

Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. 3

Just published, in 1 vol. 8vo. with Plates and Woodcuts,

JOURNAL

OF AN

OVERLAND EXPEDITION IN AUSTRALIA,

FROM

MORETON BAY TO PORT ESSINGTON,
A distance of upwards of 3000 miles.

BY DR. LUDWIG LEICHHARDT.

N.B. A large 3 sheet Map of the Route by J. Arrowsmith is published, and to be
had separately in a Case, price 9s.

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.

"A work of unquestionable merit and utility, and its autnor’s name will justly stand
high upon the honourable list of able and enterprising men, whose courage, perseve-
rance, and literary abilities have contributed so largely to our knowledge of the
geography and productions of our distant southern colonies.” —Blackwood's Mag.

“ For the courage witk which this lengthened and perilous journey was undertaken,
the skill with which it was directed, and the perseverance with which it was performed,
it is almost unrivalled in the annals of exploring enterprise. It richly deserves
attention.” — Britannia.

“The narrative in which he relates the results of this remarkable journey, and the
extraordinary fatigues and privations endured by himself and his fellow travellers, is
not merely valuable for its facts, but full of absorbing interest as a journal of perilous
adventures.” —A tlas.

“The volume before us comprises the narrative of one of the most remarkable
enterprises ever planned by man’s sagacity and executed by man’s courage and
endurance. To our minds there is in every point of view an inexpressible charm in
such a book as this. It not merely narrates to us the opening of anew material world
for human enterprise and scientific investigation, but it makes more clearly known to
us the wondrous powers and capacities of human nature. We recommend it to our
Teaders as a work scarcely less remarkable for the extraordivary enterprise recorded in
it, than for the simplicity and modesty with which it is related."—Morning Herald.

“The result of his enterprise was thoroughly successful. It has added not a little
to our existing stock of knowledge in the various departments of natural history, and
has made discovery in districts before untrodden, of an almost boundless extent of fertile
country.”— Examiner. .

“ The most striking feature in the expedition is its successful accomplishment, which
is of itself sufficient to place Dr. L. in the first rank of travellers. How much Dr. L.
has added to geographical discovery can only be felt by an examination of the admirable
maps which accompany the volume. These have been deduced on a large scale from
the traveller’s sketches by Mr. Arrowsmith, and engraved with a distinctness of execu-

tion, and a brief fulness of descriptive remark which leave nothing to be desired.”
Spectutor.

4 Published by T. & W. Boonz, 29, New Bond Street

Lately published, in 2 vols. 8vo. eloth, with 8 Maps and Charts, and 57 Illustration
BY COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.

DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA
OF THE

VICTORIA, ADELAIDE, ALBERT, AND FITZROY RIVERS,

.AND EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR;

DURING THE
VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE,
BETWEEN THE YEARS 1837 AnD 1843: ALso

A NARRATIVE OF THE VISITS OF H.M.S. BRITOMART,

COMMANDER OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S.

TO THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA.
BY CAPT. J. LORT STOKES, R.N.

‘« The whole narrative is so captivating, that we expect to find the work as much in
demand at circula‘ing libraries as at institutions of graver pretensious.’’—Colon. Gaz.

“ We have to thank Capt. Stokes for 4 most valuable work, one that will place his
name by theside of Vancouver, Tasman, Dampier, and Cook.”—New Quar. Review.

« The science of Navigation owes a deep debt to Captain Stokes. The information
contained in the present volumes must render them an invaluable companion to any
ship performing a voyage to that part of the world.”— Foreign Quarterly Review.

“* Every part of it is full of matter, both for the general and scientific reader. With
the acts of throwing the lead, taking angles, &c. lively anecdotes and pleasing ideas
are constantly associated, so that we very much doubt whether any reader will lay
aside the book, large as it is, without regret. In some parts you have all the breath-
less excitement of a voyage of discovery, and sail up new rivers, and explore new
lands, while elsewhere your thoughts are directed to the tracks of commerce and
political speculation. Altogether the work is a charming specimen of nautical litera-
ture, written in a pure, flexible, terse, and elegant style, and bespeaks everywhere in the
author a mind endued with very high moral and intellectual qualities.”—Fraser’s Mag.

““ While these volumes must prove of great value to the maritime profession, to the
geographer, and to emigrants, they cannot fail to be perused with interest by readers
in general.” —Atheneum.

*< We cannot, in noticing these two ably written and interesting volumes, insist too
strongly upon their importance alike to the mariner, the geographer, and the general
reader. The author isa man of considerable merit, a shrewd observer of men and
things, and who was fitted by nature and inclination to conduct these researches into
the vast unknown continent whither he proceeded with enterprise and spirit. These
volumes contain a fund of interesting matter, and we warmly recommend this valua-
ble addition to our literary and scientific stores to the attention of the public.”

Sentinel.

% The contents of these volumes, rich, varied and full of interest, will be their best
recommendation. For scientific acenracy, they will be highly valued by the geographer
and navigator, while they will be read for merc amusement by the public at large.”

Sunday Times.

Published by T. & W. Boonz, 29, New Bond Street. 5

THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO.

By Permission of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.
Now ready, in 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts,

NARRATIVE

OF THE

SURVEYING VOYAGE OF H.M.S. FLY,

UNDER THE COMMAND OF
CAPTAIN BLACKWOOD, R.N.

IN TORRES STRAIT, NEW GUINEA, AND OTHER ISLANDS
IN THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO ;
TOGETHER
WITH AN EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR

OF THE
EASTERN PART OF THE ISLAND OF JAVA,
DURING THE YEARS 1842 To 1846.
BY J. BEETE JUKES, M.A.

NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.

“We must congratulate Mr. Jukes on the value of his publication. Scientific
without being abstruse, and picturesque without being extravagant, he has made his
volumes a striking and graceful addition to our knowledge of countries highly interest-
ing in themselves, and assuming hourly importance in the eyes of the people of
England.”—Blackwood’s Magazine.

“To transcribe the title-page of this book is sufficient to attract public curiosity
towards it—to peruse the book itself is to be rewarded with the knowledge of a mass
of information in which complete confidence can be reposed, for, from the first page
to the last, it is apparent that the main object with Mr. Jukes is to tell all that he
knows and believes to be true, rather thau to win favour from his readers by his
manner of telling it. There is not a pretty phrase, an exaggeration, nor an invention
in the two volumes of Mr. Jukes; all is plain unadorned fact, and because it is so, is
deserving, not merely of perusal, but of study. Such are the recommendations of Mr.
Jukes’ pages to the public, and all who desire to see truth united with novelty will
pernse them.”—Morning Herald.

“Mr. Jukes has been most judicious in his selection of topics whereon to
dwell in his narrative, and he describes with great vivacity and picturesque power.
Thereis much novelty and freshness in his book, and much valuable information.”

Daily News.

“ There are very few pages in the work which are not readable and entertaining.”

Morning Post.

“ Captain Blackwood having waived his right of authorship, the narrative of the
voyage has been undertaken by Mr. Jukes, favourably known by an agreeable and
informing book on Newfoundland, nor will the present work detract from his reputa-
tion. The narrative is well planned, pleasantly written, and full of matter.”

Spectator.

‘* A great deal was seen, and Geography, Topography, Geology, Natural History,

Ethnology, Philology, and Commerce may all be benefited by the work before us.”
Literary Gazette.

“Mr. Jukes has performed his portion of the work with great ability, sparing no
pains in the working up of his abundant material, so as to make it a book of science,
as well as a book of amusement.’— Critic.

“ Although a professed man of science, he has described what he sawin a lucid and
untechnical manner, so that his work will be found interesting to the ordinary
reader, while it is equally valuable to the scientific. The amount of information con-
veyed is very great.’’— Afidland Herald.

6 Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street.

In 2 vols. 8vo. with Maps and numerous Plates,
JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY

INTO
CENTRAL AUSTRALIA,
AND
OVERLAND FROM ADELAIDE TO KING GEORGE'S SOUND,
In THE YEARS 1840-1;
Sent by the Colonists of South Australia,
WITH THE SANCTION AND SUPPORT OF THE GOVERNMENT:
INCLUDING

An Account of the Manners and Customs of the Aborigines, and the state

of their relations with Europeans.

BY EDWARD JOHN EYRE,

RESIDENT MAGISTRATE, MURRAY RIVER, NOW LIEUT.-GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND.

*,* The Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society was awarded
to Mr. Eyre for the discovery of Lake Torrens, and explorations of far greater
extent in Australia than any other traveller, a large portion never having been
previously traversed by civilized man.

‘His narrative of what he did and overcame, is more like the stirring stories of
Park and Bruce than the tame and bookish diffuseness of modern travellers.
Nothing short of a perusal of the volumes can enable our readers to appreciate this
book.” — Spectator.

“ We might easily extract much more from Mr. Eyre’s volumes of interest to the
reader, but our limits circumscribe us. We therefore bid farewell to them, with the
recommendation to the public, not to overlook a work which, though it records

the failure of a great enterprize, is yet full of matter, which proclaims it of value.”
Atlas.

“Mr. Eyre writes with the plain unaffected earnestness of the best of the old
travellers.” — Examiner.

“ An intensely interesting book.”— Tablet.

“ We must now close these interesting volumes, not, however, without expressing
our high approval both of the matter they contain, and of the manner of their com-
pilation. We rise from the perusal of them with a feeling similar to that which
follows the enjoyment of a pleasant work of fiction.” —Critic.

Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. 7

In 1 vol. 8vo. cloth, with large Map by Arrowsmith, and numerous Illustrations,
SOUTH AUSTRALIA AND ITS MINES,

With an Historical Sketch of the Colony, under its several Adminis-
trations, to the Period of Captain Grey’s Departure.

By FRANCIS DUTTON.

“The best work which has yet issued from the press, descriptive of the resources
and management of this thriving ccolony.”—Mining Journal.

“ We have here a well-timed book. South Australia and its Mines are now objects
of great interest ; and Mr. Dutton’s plain, unadorned recital, contains just what the
intending emigrant, or the mercantile inquirer, will rejoice at having placed within
his reach.” —Colonial Gazette.

COLONIZATION;
PARTICULARLY IN SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA,

Wirh soMzZ REMARKS ON SMALL FARMS AND OVER PoPuULATION.
By MAJOR-GENERAL SIR CHARLES JAMES NAPIER, K.C.B.
Author of “ The Colonies ; particularly the Ionian Islands ”

In 1 vol. 8vo. price 7s. boards.

“We earnestly recommend the book to all who feel an interest in the welfare of the
people.”— Sun.

In 1 vol. post 8vo. price 5s. 6d.
HINTS FOR AUSTRALIAN EMIGRANTS,
WITH
ENGRAVINGS AND EXPLANATORY DESCRIPTIONS
OF THE WATER RAISING WHEELS,

AND MODES OF IRRIGATING LAND IN SYRIA, EGYPT, SOUTH AMERICA, ETC.

BY PETER CUNNINGHAM,

SURGEON, R.N.

Author of “Two Years in New South Wales,” §c.

“The mere name of Mr. Cunningham affords an ample guarantee for the value of
any work to which it may be prefixed; and, “ to all whom it may concern,” we can
confidently recommend this remarkably neat little volame as replete with practical
infurmation. Its numerous illustrative engravings in wood are executed in a very
superior style.” — Naval and Military Gazette, October 23rd, 1841.

8 Published by T. & W. Boong, 29, New Bond Street.

In 1 vol. 8vo. Map and Plates, cloth, price 12s.

AUSTRALIA,
FROM PORT MACQUARIE TO MORETON BAY,

WITH

Descriptions of the Natives, their Manners and Customs, the Geology,
Natural Productions, Fertility, and Resources of that Region.

First explored and surveyed by order of the Colonial Government.

BY CLEMENT HODGKINSON.

“ The work before our consideration contains certain details connected with the
portion of Australia, described in it, which will prove of first-rate importance to the
colonist and emigrant, since they are evidently derived from practical experience.
Thronghout this unpretending little work we trace great honesty of purpose, and a
disposition to state no more than the bare facts as they presented themselves.”

New Quarterly Review.

Just published, in 2 vols. 8v0. with a large Map,
AN HISTORICAL,

POLITICAL AND STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

OF THE

ISLAND OF CEYLON.

By CHARLES PRIDHAM, Esa.

AUTHOR OF

“THE MAURITIUS AND ITS DEPENDENCIES.”
ef All these events will be found fully set forth in the volumes under uotice,
which are certainly far superior as a history of Ceylon to any otber that has yet
appeared. The reader will also find in these pages curious and original information
respecting the habits, manners and customs of the Cingalese, which he may look for
in vain in similar publications. Every portion of this valuable work teems with
information of a precise and important character.”— Observer.

“Those who seek information on the subject of Ceylon, will find his book a great
storehouse of facts.” — Economist.

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