IIMALS ai | BY NS MAYO < _TheRaral Science Series | LH. pees | Fdhfor Wall ill a HHH 1 EN A A Light iity nee iii iri ccccnninn aide HUTT TTT TTP eee ecateeetetoecetces eevee ter ser etsy ear roateeaenat ena eae tear eed seerenterreer ret ita et et ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY CORNELL UNIVERSITY moana Spec: tate 3 1924 0 97 Y. ill 635 498 Cornell University Library The original of this book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://Awww.archive.org/details/cu31924097635498 Che Rural Science Series Epitep spy L. H. BarLey THE DISEASES OF ANIMALS ergo poos Jo seoueptay vy}—‘JusuT}WE]NOD pur OSTA “T “Sh THE DISEASES OF ANIMALS A BOOK OF BRIEF AND POPULAR ADVICE ON THE CARE AND THE COMMON AILMENTS OF FARM ANIMALS BY NELSON 8. MAYO, M.S., D.V.S. * Professor of Veterinary Seience in the Virginia Polytechnic Institute. Form- erly Professor of Veterinary Science in the Kansas State Agricul- tural College, and State Veterinarian of Kansas ELEVENTH EDITION Pew Work THE MACMILLAN COMPANY LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Lrv. 1917 All rights reserved Mann SPEc. COLL. SF ti M47 G17 CoprricuT, 1903 anp 1913 By THE MACMILLAN COMPANY Set_up and electrotyped November, 1903 Reprinted February, 1905, August, 1907, November, 1908, May, 1910, June, 1911, March, 1912 New and Revised Edition, September, 1913 June, 1914, February, 1916, October, 1917 AMount Pleasant Press J. Horace McFarland Company Harrisburg, Pennsylvania PREFACE THE proper care of animals is more than supply- ing their physical needs and comforts. Animals are subject to ills and accidents. It is the part of every farmer to know how to care for the simpler diffi- culties, and when to eall for advice from the vete- rinarian. The animal industry is rapidly increasing in extent and importance. The day of the skilled veterinarian is coming; but his profession must rest on a quickened public knowledge of the diseases and accidents to which animals are subject. The greater the knowledge of these subjects on the part of the man who raises animals, the keener is his interest in these and all related matters, and the more frequent will be his demands on the veteri- narian. The day of the “horse-doctor book” is pass- ing. Prevention, sanitation, careful handling are more important than mere medication. We are coming to a rational treatment of disease in animals, as we are of disease in man. Now that the farmer is giving so much attention to feeding and breeding, he should also give additional thought to the extra difficulties and ailments that overtake his flocks. (v) vi Preface This little volume is based on an experience of some twelve years in Michigan, Connecticut and Kansas, as a practitioner, as a teacher of veterinary science to students in agricultural colleges, and as a lec- turer before farmers’ institutes. It has been the aim to give concise, practical directions that can be used by those who have to do with the care of animals. Special attention has been given to the use of domes- tic and simple remedies. Complicated medicinal treat- ment has been omitted, as not being practicable in ordinary hands. For the same reason, rare and unusual diseases are omitted because of the danger of confusion. The writer will be glad to receive suggestions from those into whose hands this book may fall, as to measures that will make it more useful and practical. NELSON S. MAYO NOTE TO THE SECOND EDITION This book was first issued under the title, “Care of Animals.” The name is now changed in order that the contents of the book may be better expressed. There is no change in the text. Irnaca, N. Y., L. H BAILEY. March 31, 1906 CONTENTS CHAPTER I GENERAL ADVICE 26% 5 aes ee eR ewe Feeding and Watering ............-. XOPCISE Sk ech eas Ge pe ho ag Ae Ge ss Protecting the Animals . Se eg oe we we Give the Animal Your Paisanal Attention ee gow ap de ck CHAPTER II Tue Care oF ANIMALS IN STABLES AND YARDS ..... 17-29 ‘Horse Stalls cays eos ae Soe aoa Al a ae Wa Cow Stables . 2... 2. 2... ee ee The Grooming of. Horses ..........-4..-+2.--. The Clipping of Horses. ............-.-. The Care of the Feet. .........-..--- Bedding =: 4-3 2 ¢ #2 4K 2 4S Yee ES Care of Swine. «© s@ si Gee RS ER He Yards and Corrals ...........-..4++-+2+5 Quarantine ww ee ee Toe Care OF PETS: 2 i st ®t te eae EH 30-49 DDORS ~ sie & cde aol (2 eel aye Bk. aa a The Breaking of Dogs for Farm Purposes ...... Cate a Be a le. he kee Sp le -e ee y Grawe, a e Cavies, or Guinea Pigs .. 1... 1... 2200 Pet: Poultty’ 03 bh Soe a KR Ee SE OR we ee viii Contents CHAPTER IV Paces Tue Horse—JupDGING AND HanpiLinaG ee ae One 51-87 Age . SP san gas Ey Som lech Ul aan Noch Go ity ad OR eo 60? ees, a 51 The Teeth of the Horse. . . 2... 2. ee ee ee 52 Contrasts with Cattle 2... ..-.... 085080 G 57 Color of Horses 2... eee ee 58 Style kak a ee ae ee Ge we 59 Points in Horses... 2 6 3 eee oe ee we ee 59 Unsoundness in Horses .. 8 ....2.+.504- 62 Warranty: «a8 4 44 2 BR eS ey woe Ee 63 Examination of Hone in Stable Se ste ete ot cee ne 64 Examining Out-of-doors. . .. 2... 2... ee ue 65 Fitting Horses for Market... ........... 71 Shipping Horses. ee) (ag iy Sater letatee Gaeta ae Beas « 72 “Green” Horses = 3 .. «ee ee eee eae 74 Training and Hitching Up ‘Homes Ge Aah lo aera od 75 Breaking Colts erga! aS a aa « 78 Wild or Vicious Horses ..... 2... +2 ee ae 82 Balky Horses . a Ss aarti. Se nae Sane Wee op he 83 Rearing, or “Raring’? ww ee le 85 Halter-pulling Pe dane He dh AR Bodh ade 85 Pulling on the Bit ...... ee ee a ee 86 Runaway Horses... ...... 2... ee eae 87 CHAPTER V Tur Horse—LAMENESS AND SHOBING ......... 88-107 Diagnosing Lameness ............... 89 Sweeney, Shoulder Lameness. .......... » 91 Laminitis, or Founder. ............ . 98 Coffin-joint Lameness ............0.. . 95 OTS) 53. ar erste Gy eee dnsa Se a SOs Gna el hea 97 Contents ix Tae Horse—LaMeness anp SHorinc—Continued Pages QUITtOR 6 ae oe et og ey ele els a deg 99 Punctured Wounds of the Foot ........... 100 CBITUSHY ROBY Sabla ata Fracture of Hin, BONG 2) segue aaa Ulceration of Bone ............ “Side-bones” 2. 2 ww. ee ee le Softening of Bones... ........2-20.-. Brittle Bones. 2 2... ew ee ee ee Cartilage Turning to Bone .........2... Osteoporosis . 2 2. we ee Bony Enlargements. ............2.2.4.-. Bone: SPavang- ee cerca’ ae ee ay We ae eee, eae cae ee Ring-Done:- <2 a> 63) kg cad a eR Se are) a eee Big-knee and Other Enlargements .... . 4.9 MOG io) ch eye as es ee tenes sae sen cea astar! es Dislocation of Bones ....... ©... 2. Knuckling «6.5 8 ee Ree RE EH Stifled... 3g ae ae Be ee SR ee Se eR a es 218 . . 224 » . 224 . 225 225 226 226 227 227 228 232 . 234 “xii Contents Diseases AND INJURIES OF THE Bones, Limps aND JOINTS— Continued Paces SPrAINS!o9 1 Ver hace th Ae Gr. be coh Wb S) oe Ee aa a> BP Bee 239 Bog-spavins. <0 sg Kea ee ae ae ee SP SS 239 Wind=piiis:... 2 6 ag sR Ale Bae Se ee eS 240 Thorough-pin. . 2... eee ee 241 Gur ses) ab a ea es 6k ap Se. SIR RO 242 Knee-sprung ....... 2.2. eee Se Sen des ee NA 243 Breaking-down . 2. 6 6 eee eee ee 243 Ruptured Tendons ................ 244 CHAPTER XI DISEASES OF THE ALIMENTARY TRACT AND OF THE DIGESTIVE FUNCTION... By hech F 245-278 Sore Mouth : Se ¥ a ae eae . 247 Infectious Sore Mouth of Cattle . ase . 247 Diseased and Abnormal Teeth. ......... 249 Wolftecths ese Syke SP Sg er a a OS 252 Cribbing@ 6 s.6 ee ae Be ee ee 252 Parotiditis. 3%. 3.6 ah yeh ty oo aE ee howe as we Ss 253 Salivary Calculus... ............04. 254 Salivation, or Slobbering. ...........0.0. 254 Sore: That. 8. ye ae hk A a SU Ee ee as 255 Chokingt so soc Gig eo a eek ewe gh Be lh 256 Stomach Staggers... ..........204 . 259 Impaction of the Rumen oan EOE? 260 Hoven, or Bloating in Cattle .........2. 261 Gorging with Grain. . 2... 2... 2. 264 Indigestion in Horses... ............. 265 Colic in Horses. . OB LR REY ak Oh nag eo ee 267 Obstruction of the Bowels in Horses. ....... 270 Concretions, Calculi, Hair-balls, ete. 271 Intussesception, or Invagination of the Bowel he Contents xiii DISEASES OF THE ALIMENTARY TRACT AND OF THE DIGESTIVE Function—Continued Paces Volvulus, Twisting of the Bowel, “Gut-tie? ..... 272 Inflammation of the Bowels, or Enteritis. ...... 272 Diarrhea, Scouring ..........2. 22 ee ee 274 Constipation sooo ak seek ade ake GR Ge ca A ew 276 White: Scour a. ise Gg gh wie a a a Be Ee ew 277 Crop-bound Fowls. ..... i sae Et ese hate tay eh as ay eaD GS 277 CHAPTER XII Diseases AFFECTING THE RESPIRATORY SYSTEM... . 279-290 Acute Catan gig cee wee ela || eee ed 279 Chronic Catarrh ............2.040. . 280 Bronchitis 2. 2 6 ss ha ew ee .. . 281 Congestion of the Lungs ......... . 283 Pneumonia, Inflammation of the Lungs, Lung Fever . 284 Infectious Pneumonia . as RE ee te . 287 Contagious Pleuro-pneumonia . 6 7 ww we, 287 Pulmonary Emphysema, Heaves, or Broken-wind . . . 288 Roaring, or Whistling ...........0.2200,- 289 CHAPTER XIII Diseases AFFECTING THE BRAIN AND NERVOUS System. 291-299 Hydrocephalus . ..... ..... a Ud 291 Dummies Lode 146 Gt UP la liye Se eee aed 292 Tetanus, or Lock-jaw . . 200. 1. we ee ee ee 292 Stringhalt, Chorea ww ww eee ee ee 295 Fits, Epilepsy... 00 6 2 we ee ee eee . 297 Sunstroke, Heat Exhaustion ............ 298 Apoplexy’ 5 46 see “fe gn ew Se wae Ey 298 Paralysisi jo c0ig ke Go Gi we as ae OR AOR OR Se 299 xiv Contents CHAPTER XIV Paces Diszases AFFECTING THE SKIN AND EYE. ...... 300-313 Hidebound ..... ane ea 300 Eczema, Inflammation of the Skin is Gk, a HE ae a 332 Bots in Horses... 2... 0 1 wee ee . . 833 Contents XV ParasiTEs—Continued Paazs Bots im; Cattle oe goa eck go wg a We a . 335 Sheep Bot-fly, Grub in the Head ......... 336 Ticks te ale. SH ASS we eR ee aes . . . 888 Liver Flukeés 00. a 340 Blood-worms of the Horse. . . . 341 Gid, or Staggers in Sheep. ...... 342 Intestinal Worms... .......... 343 Stomach Worm of Sheep ........ F 348 Wang Worm 6 sar a ee 350 Gapes in Fowls. ... 1... 2. ee ee te 352 Measles in Meat .... 2.2... 1... ee eee . 353 Trichine in Meat. ..........0 2.2.2 aee 354 CHAPTER XVI Contagious AND InrecTIoUS DisEASES ....... 356-400 Glanders and Farcy mR. Shas PRI I La Sew sts 358° Anthrax, Charbon . .... .. «ws... ae 362 Blackleg 4. 24S ew eee ea eee ee 364 Directions for Using Blackleg Virus. ....... 366 Rabies, Hydrophobia . . . eee ee ee 369 Texas, or Southern Cattle Fever .......... 372 Contagious Abortion. ............-.4.. 376 Foot and Mouth Disease ...........4... 378 Tuberculosis «2 6 40 41 6 pe ewe ee ee 380 The Tuberculin Test .......... 384 Cowpox: ea:, Fe Ww mage ys ee) Ge oe RS eS 387 Dog Distemper . ........... 388 Hog Cholera and Swine Plague ...... 390 Fowl Cholera. . .... pi ranean, tx 2... 6897 BIAGKHEAG. se Bk Ge ih thie tee es ae Oe a 8 399 ROUP 2.503 Me eR Se KX BOS SB eG Be Hh ws 399 Xvi Contents CHAPTER XVII Paces MisceELLaNEous DIsEASES. ... 1... ee ee ees 401-429 AZOCUDIA; 2 see RR Se eS Ae ER Re 401 Retention of Urine ...... Di eh aNdke Sao eaeiG es "eae ign 403 Stone in the Bladder .........-2.2.2.2-+4-. 404 Foul Sheath: ~ . (6% Biwi wee Giele wae eee 405 Paralysis of the Penis. ....... Naees toAGh tes Sas ees 406 Frequent Urinating in Mares. ............ 406 IDIODSY! Yep sah pea Se le ok Be eee, *, 407 “Big leg,” Lymphangitis ............. . 408 Loco- css ge ke, ic les We aes ae wee Re 418 Poisoning of Animals ...........2200-4. 419 Poisonous Foods ...... 2. ee ee ee ee 423 Moldy Gomi 20h Ge ee SR Se ae we kee 424 Moldy Silage. .. 1... ee ee ee ee ew 426 Moldy Oats, Hay and Forage ............ 427 Injury from Cotton-seed Meal. ........... 427 Dirty-Hay: «koa GB Aw HR SD es 428 Lead Poisoning in Cattle ...........00085 428 Other: Poisonsi 6:95, hq Ge Gk a we we 429 CHAPTER XVIII Recipes aND Brier ADVICE... . ........ 430-450 Doses of Medicine . ...........0-.2044 430 Common Prescriptions ............... 439 Brief Advice on the Commoner Diseases . ...... 442 THE DISEASES OF ANIMALS CHAPTER I GENERAL ADVICE Domestic animals are kept under conditions that are more or less artificial,—conditions created by man and largely under his control. These conditions may be conducive to the good health and utility of ani- mals, or if neglected or improperly attended to they inay prove injurious; and they are frequently the active agents in the production of disease. Wherever animals are gathered in large numbers there is an increased tendency toward contagious and infectious diseases, and extra precautions must be taken. It has been stated by some writers that the function or economy of disease-producing germs is to prevent an undue population of the earth. The fact that contagious diseases are most prevalent where numbers of animals are gathered, where hygienic and sanitary rules are not enforced, and where ignorance prevails, tends, at least, to enforce this conclusion, and to show that, in the main, “the fittest survive.” In the care of domestic animals, the old adage that ‘a stitch in time saves nine” is applicable, for it is much easier and more economical to prevent diseases A (1) 2 The Diseases of Animals than to cure them. A man who understands the wants and needs of domestic animals, and who uses good judgment and care in dealing with them, is amply repaid in the profits. and satisfaction returned. One of the first essentials to the successful, care and handling of stock is suitable quarters. The quar- Fig. 2. The old-time barn and yard, in which shelter is inadequate and much of the manure is wasted ters should protect from the inclemencies of weather, both in winter and summer. They should be light, dry and well ventilated. Dark, damp and _ poorly ventilated stables are hotbeds of disease. Light and an abundance of fresh air are essential to the main- tenance of health; and these can be so cheaply sup- plied that no excuse can be offered for the lack of them. The Stables 3 Cleanliness is another very important factor, for the excrements of the animal body are not only injurious themselves, but they afford a breeding-place for bac- teria, and in the processes of decomposition give off noxious gases. The common practice of stabling ani- mals over manure-pits is not beneficial to the health of animals, however convenient it may be. Modern veterinary hygiene, both in theory and practice, fol- lows human hygiene very closely. In cases of doubt as regards hygienic or sanitary conditions, it is a good plan to put yourself in the animal’s place. Fig. 2, while interesting as a picture, shows some of the con- ditions to avoid. The temperature of stables and barns is an important matter. Many modern stables are too warm; the old- time ones are likely to be too cold. Too high tempera- ture produces lassitude, reduces appetite and tends to breed germs. Too low temperature prevents the animal from making strong and continuous growth; the food energy that would otherwise go to the building up of the body is consumed in merely keeping warm. As a rule, a temperature of 45° to 50° is best for most animals in winter. FEEDING AND WATERING More animals are injured by overfeeding than by underfeeding. It is mistaken kindness to feed ani- mals merely because they will eat. Under ordinary conditions, animals should be given only sufficient food to keep them in fairly good flesh. Animals 4 The Diseases of Animals that are fat are susceptible to disease, do not breed readily, do not endure well in parturition, nor per- form ordinary labor easily. It is a somewhat common practice, when severe exertion is required of a horse, either at draft or on the road, to give him an extra heavy feed. Such practice is injurious to the animal, as he cannot do his best work when the digestive system is overloaded with food and thus taxed to its utmost eapacity. Animals of which hard work is ex- pected should be fed sparingly. Of course, horses or other animals that are continuously at hard labor should be given food enough to keep them in good physical condition. When warm, and especially when tired, an animal should’ be allowed to rest before receiving its usual food. The overtaxing of organs already tired tends to bring on diseases of the digestive system. It is usually a good plan to water the animal sparingly at first and give a light feed of hay; then, when it is eool and rested, to give what water is desired and the customary feed of grain. Rubbing an animal with a brush, cloth, or wisp of straw is an excellent method of resting and soothing it when it is tired and nervous. When animals are fed out of doors or in pens it is best to have them divided into small groups, or to have individual places for feeding each animal. The food should be so distributed that each animal has opportunity to get its fair share. When this is not done the strong and aggressive animals are likely to keep the weaker ones from getting their share of How to Feed 5 the food, while they themselves may eat more than is good for them. The same general principles hold in watering animals; every opportunity should be given for the weaker ones to get sufficient water; otherwise the “bosses,” after obtaining what water they wish, will often keep other animals away. Ex- perience has demonstrated that, in feeding calves or similar animals, they do much better when each is kept in a stall or stanchion by itself, at least during the feeding period. Calves herding together frequently suck one another’s ears or other parts of the body to such an extent that it interferes with their growth. In feeding young animals, cleanliness is of the greatest importance, especially for those that are fed milk or similar foods, which soon decompose. Not only should the food be sweet and pure, but the pails, troughs and other utensils should be kept scru- pulously clean. All food that the animal does not consume should be removed, and not allowed to de- compose. The food for young animals is often fed in a too concentrated form. Much better results ean be secured by diluting the food and feeding more frequently. For horses at ordinary work, oats and _ bright timothy hay constitute an excellent diet. When horses are at hard labor, an addition of cornmeal is excellent to make up for the increased waste. For such horses, and for old animals whose teeth are not in good condition, better results are secured if the corn and oats are ground together. Animals should be fed regularly, and then watered 6 The Diseases of Animals before receiving grain. Bulky food, or that con- taining a large amount of indigestible substance, should be fed to horses sparingly. Cattle and sheep are not so easily injured by it, since they have greater digestive capacity. Musty or dusty hay fed to horses is likely to produce indigestion or heaves; and it is often a source of much trouble to other animals. Moldy and wormy food is often the cause of a serious brain disease among horses and mules; and moldy ensilage sometimes poisons cattle. Grasses or grain often contain ergot, a parasitic fungus, which shows itself among the healthy grains as long black kernels. This fungus most frequently attacks rye and related wild grains. The feeding of this “spurred rye” to animals is likely to produce in them a disease called ergotism. In this disease the blood-vessels of the extremities contract to such an extent that the feet of the afflicted animals frequently slough off, and sometimes, also, the tails. Corn-smut, so far as known, does not cause disease. If fed in large quantities, however, it is likely to produce indi- gestion. Underfeeding is a result of insufficient food, or of food that is not sufficiently nutritious and diges- tible. As a result of underfeeding, animals fall away in flesh, become “hidebound,” and the coat takes on a harsh and lusterless appearance, which is caused by the absorption of fat from beneath the skin. A sim- ilar appearance may also be produced by disease. In bringing underfed animals back into condition, care must be taken not to overfeed. It is best to increase Violent Changes in Food 7 Fig. 3. Salting the sheep the rations very gradually, so that the digestive system may adapt itself to the change. Sudden and violent changes of food are always to be avoided if possible. When it is necessary to change the food, this should be done gradually, and the new food should not be taken on an empty stomach. If a horse is to be turned out to pasture, it is better that he have a feed of hay and grain before being let out, 8 The Diseases of Animals as then he is less likely to gorge himself on the new diet. Fresh grass usually acts very beneficially on an animal, improving the tone of the whole system. A variety of foods generally gives the best results. Animals at severe work rarely keep up in flesh if fed chiefly on green succulent food. Palatability of food,— that is, agreeable taste,—is also very important. Common salt is essential to practically all domestic animals, and it should be given to them frequently. If animals are allowed free aecess to salt they eat only what nature requires; but to animals not ac- customed to it, salt must be supplied very gradually, or they will eat too much at first and are likely to be overtaken by indigestion or even death. Sheep are sometimes poisoned by eating too much salt when they are not accustomed to it. Fine or rock salt may be used. Every good farmer knows that he must salt his sheep often (Fig. 38). “Bolting” the food, or gulping it rapidly and without sufficient mastication, is always injurious to animals. Some horses acquire this as a habit, and it is hard to overcome. One of the best methods of prevent- ing it is to spread the grain over a large area, as on the bottom of a manger, so that the horse cannot easily obtain large mouthfuls. There are iron feed- boxes, divided into small compartments, that accom- plish the same results. Smooth round stones, the size of a man’s fist, can be placed in the ordinary feed-box, so that the horse is required to nose them over in order to get the grain. Animals that bolt their food should be given ground feed. OSlO1eXe ABUT SMOD YOTIUL GIOYA ‘sprVsé O[QeIS POOH “F “3 said Surmeyey poos Jo ued Y °¢ ‘SLT Value of Exercise 11_ EXERCISE Exercise is important in maintaining the general health and vigor of animals. The practice of keep- ing milech cows closely confined the year round, while conducive to an increased milk-flow, also & : Fig. 6. A good Yorkshire pig tends to weaken the animals’ constitutions, and pre- dispose them to disease, especially to tuberculosis. Exercise is necessary to keep the muscles, digestive system, skin and other organs of the body in a healthy condition. But animals that are being fattened for the market should have very little exercise, as ex- ertion consumes some of the food that should go . 12 The Diseases of Animals ae a Fig. 7. Young Galloway bulls toward the making of fat. Cow barns should be provided with ample yards, placed in such position that they are well protected from winds (Fig. 4). In severe weather, cows should be exercised under cover, as in a covered barnyard. PROTECTING THE ANIMALS Animals that have to be exposed to severe weather should be protected by means of blankets, especially when allowed to stand while sweating after severe ex- ertion. This is especially true of horses during cold weather. The best and most economical horse- blankets are the large, square, all-wool kinds. They should always be securely fastened on by means of straps or large blanket pins. During the summer, horses that are subjected to severe exertion, which causes them to sweat freely, can be protected from drafts and from The Care-taker ; 13 danger of taking cold by light thin blankets. com- monly known as “steaming blankets.” In localities where flies and mosquitoes abound, it is economy to protect working animals against them by the use of fly-nets; as the irritation of the animal,— to say nothing of the driver,—in fighting the pests, will be a serious loss of energy and nerve force. GIVE THE ANIMAL YOUR PERSONAL ATTENTION A sleek, well-fed, contented-looking animal is not often the result of accident. It is the product of good care. The successful stockman is the one who likes his animals. He will sacrifice, his own comfort rather than theirs. He will not stop with a half hour’s Fig. 8. Good Galloway cattle at pasture yore 107 Apvor o[14¥0 YT Fig. 10. Jerseys in good milk condition Fig. 11. Dorsets in good stock condition 16 The Diseases of Animals grooming of his horse if the animal needs an hour’s. “What do you give your horse to make him look so fine?” the traveler asked of the English farm lad. “Lot’s o’ rubbin’, sir,” was the reply. The best of food, the fanciest stables, the most expensive implements and equipments, will not make up for the lack of good loving care. These are more than medicine or breed. Do not wait until your animal runs down before you inquire what ails him. It is better not to let him run down. Many persons do not know what a good animal is, even though they raise animals all their lives. Sleek, plump, ciose-haired, clean, docile, contented,— these are some of the words that we apply to animals that are well cared for. Scrawny, rough, restless, wild, dirty,— these are attributes of those that are poorly eared for. The accompanying pictures (Figs. 3-11) show good farm animals. Poor farm animals are so common that pictures of them are not needed. CHAPTER Il THE CARE OF ANIMALS IN STABLES AND YARDS AsipE from the necessity of stabling animals to protect them against inclement weather, it is often desirable to confine them for other reasons. Stabled animals are usually more gentle to handle, and their coats are improved in texture and appearance. The following brief remarks on stabling, however, are made from the veterinarian’s point of view. In the construction of stables, strength, simplicity and plainness should be emphasized. Under these condi- tions, the stables may be easily cleaned and disinfected. The animals should stand, if possible, with their heads toward the center of the building. This arrange- ment of stalls provides better ventilation and also better lighting, as the light should be admitted, whenever possible, from behind the animals. In man and beast, sight is impaired by having to face a glare of light. With the larger animals, such as horses and cattle, it is best to confine them in separate stalls, where they can not get their heads together. There should be a sufficiently strong partition between to keep them from turning crosswise and interfering with their neighbors. Animals that are not properly separated often fall into the habit of fighting each other. The feed-boxes should be so arranged that each animal is fed sepa- B (17) 18 The Diseases of Animals rately, and is prevented from consuming another’s food. Such an arrangement insures each animal a given amount of food, and it.tends to prevent the spread of dangerous undetected diseases, as tuberculosis among cattle and glanders among horses. The front of the stalls should be built no higher than is necessary to keep the animal properly confined and to place the food within reach. When the animal is standing the expired air will pass out over the front of his stall. HORSE STALLS The size of stalls for horses must depend somewhat on the size of the animal to be confined. For ordi- nary horses the stalls should be at least five feet wide; five and a half to six feet is better. They should be nine and a half feet long. For flooring, hard wood two-inch planks, well matched, are excellent. Some hard woods are too slippery, however, and hemlock may be used. The floor of the stall should have a very gentle slope to the rear, the plank running lengthwise of the stall. It is more convenient to have the flooring of the passageway behind the animals at right angles to that of the stall, as it is easier to clean. The partition separating the stalls should be strongly made, well set and smoothly ceiled on each side. The rear of the partition should be well rounded. The feed-box and manger may be of iron or hard wood; if of the latter, the edges should be protected with strips of iron securely screwed down to prevent the animals from gnawing the wood. Horse Stalls and Cow Stalls 19 Horses are best confined in stalls by means of stout leather halters, which can be tied to the railing or to any suitable place on the manger or side of partition. The tie should be secure and short enough to prevent the possibility of a horse getting a foot over the halter ‘stale. An excellent method is to pass the halter stale through a rope or ring or over a pulley, and attach a light weight to the other end; this always keeps the rope taut enough to prevent accidents of this nature. In some cases, where animals do not stand well when tied by the head, they can be confined in the stall by a chain fastened across behind the animal; this is also a good method of preventing the animal from backing and lying down in the manure. When room can be afforded, box stalls are desirable. These may be as much as twelve feet square, although ten by ten is a good size. In all horse stalls, provide high walls or partitions for kicking animals,—three and a half to four feet high. COW STABLES The general arrangement of a cow stable, from a veterinarian’s point of view, should be similar to that of a horse stable, except that cement can be used more _satisfactorily for feed-troughs, passageways and gut- ter behind the cows. Cement passageways for horse stables should be roughened, to prevent horses slip- ping, as the continuous wear from steel shoes is liable to make the cement smooth. The length of stalls for cattle must depend on the 20 The Diseases of Animals size of the animals. For small cows of the dairy type the length of stall from the manger to edge of gutter should be from fifty-six to sixty-two inches; and for the larger beef breeds seventy-two inches. The floor- ing of the stalls should be planks, well matched, run- ning lengthwise of the stall and having a slight incline to the rear. The gutter behind the stall should be from four to five inches deep and about fifteen inches wide. The edge of the gutter next to the stall should be vertical; otherwise animals are liable to slip when stepping on it.. The width of the stall should vary, according to the size of the animal, from thirty-eight to forty-five inches. There should be a partition extending far enough back to keep the animals from fighting each other and from turning crosswise of the stall so as to interfere with the neighboring animal or to soil the adjoining stall. In the narrower stalls for milch cows, it is an excel- lent plan to have the partition hinged near the cow’s shoulder, so that the rear portion can be unhooked and swung aside or raised to give more room for the milker. The manger should be as low as convenient, and should be so divided that the food of each animal is kept in a separate compartment. In the stabling of cows, each animal should have her own stall assigned to her, and she should not be shifted from place to place. Cows are fastened in stalls in various ways. Some of the swinging or chain stanchions give good satisfac- tion. An excellent method is merely to stretch a chain across the rear of the stall. This is a cheap and effi- Cleaning of Horses 21 cient method if the stall is built of proper size; and it keeps the animal from being soiled by the droppings. Another economical and satisfactory method is to use a neck-strap to which a ring is fastened; through this ring a chain is passed from one side of the manger to the other, crosswise of the stall, and held in place by a slipping bolt; by means of a rope attached to this bolt and fastened to a lever, all the animals in a row can be released at once. The drainage from stables, especially from cow sta- bles, should be kept on the surface, as underground drains clog easily with the coarse material that is used for feed and bedding. Preferably, there should be no drainage of urine, for it should be absorbed in bedding for use as a fertilizer. THE GROOMING OF HORSES In most respects the skin of animals resembles that of man, except that it is more densely covered with hair for protection. This affords a place for the lodgment of dust and dirt, which is frequently retained by coming in contact with the perspiration. Dirt frequently collects upon the skin and coat of animals from lying down, either in the stable or out of doors. In order to improve the appearance of an animal, and to contribute to its general health, the skin should be cleaned frequently. This is best done by means of a good bristle brush. In addition to this tool, a metal comb is required for the purpose of loosening such hard material as cannot be removed 22 The Diseases of Animals with a brush. Combs, however, should be used lightly and only for the purpose of removing dirt. The es- sential part of grooming is to apply the bristle brush vigorously. This removes the accumulated dirt and dried perspiration, gives the coat a glossy appearance, and prevents various parasitic diseases of the skin. If possible, grooming should be performed after ani- mals have had exercise, as the perspiration produced by the exercise is then removed instead of being allowed to dry on the skin. This is especially important when the skin and coat are soiled with mud or water. After the coarse dirt is loosened by means of a curry-comh, it should be completely removed with the brush; and, after brushing, the loose dust can be removed from the outside of the coat by wiping with a slightly dampened cloth. The manes and tails of horses can be cleaned by using a very coarse comb and then thoroughly brush- ing with a mane brush, working on a small part of the mane or tail at. a time. Curry-combs and finer combs should not be used upon the mane or tail, as they pull out and break off too many hairs. The mane and tail should be washed once in two weeks, care being taken to clean the skin thoroughly by using warm soft water and some mild soap; after washing the hair, brushing it, out straight and dry- ing it, a little bland oil or vaseline should be worked into the skin to keep it soft. In warm weather, when horses are brought in wet with perspiration, it is often a good plan to rinse them off thoroughly with water from which the chill Clipping Horses 23 has been removed. Then with a slightly curved stick, commonly called a scraper, the dirt and sweat can be thoroughly removed. The skin should then be rubbed dry with rubbing cloths and the hair brushed down straight. THE CLIPPING OF HORSES When horses are kept in comfortable stables dur- ing the winter, and are well protected against cold by stable blankets while in the barn and by street blankets while standing out, there is no serious ob- jection to clipping them. It improves the appear- ance of the horse and his coat is more easily kept clean. Horses with long, thick coats should be clipped, as they usually sweat easily and their coats hold the moisture, so that if the animal is allowed to stand it is liable to take cold. If horses are clipped twice a year, the operation should be performed the first time soon after the hair has grown out in the fall. This allows them to become accustomed to the change be- fore cold weather sets in, and it also allows for some growth of hair before winter. They should be clipped the second time in early spring, as soon as the weather begins to get warm and before the winter coats begin to be shed. When horses cannot be protected from the cold, either in the stable or outside, they should not be clipped in the fall; but the long hair on the legs, as far as the knee and hock, may be removed. This is particularly important in horses that are required to work in mud, as the legs are much more readily 24 The Diseases of Animals kept clean, and diseases such as scratches, mud fever and others, all caused by irritation from mud or dirt, are prevented. THE CARE OF THE FEET The feet of animals should be looked after fre- quently and all accumulations of. dirt removed. This is especially important with horses. Their feet should be examined and scraped out in the morning before being sent to work and at night after returning, as it is very common to find foreign bodies, such as nails and stones, either driven into the wall or sole of the foot, or collected in the clefts of the frog or between the bars and the frog. If the hoofs show a tendency to dry out and become hard and brittle they should be softened with some good oil or hoof ointment. If they are ragged and tend to split, they should be rasped on the edges and trimmed un- til smooth. When animals are closely confined in stalls, especially on bedding, the hoofs grow out long; and if not treated they will deform the animal and make traveling extremely difficult. This condition is often observed in sheep, cattle and horses when they do not get exercise enough to wear away the horn as rapidly as it grows. The hoofs of such animals can be trimmed by paring them with a knife, or, better, in most cases, by using hoof-paring instru- ments which are made for farriers. These resemble in construction a pair of pincers. In paring hoofs, care should be exercised not to cut them too short, Bedding for Animals 25 as the animal is likely to become footsore. The hoofs of colts should be examined often to see that they are growing symmetrically. It sometimes happens that a piece is worn or broken from one side of a hoof, and this throws the weight of the body in such a way as to bring a strain upon the joints, that causes deformity or disease. In trimming hoofs, the outside of the wall should not be rasped or cut away, as it naturally forms a protective coating over the hoof. BEDDING Animals that are confined in stables through the night should be well bedded with some material that will not only make a comfortable place for them to lie on, but that will keep the animal clean and dry. If possible, a bedding should be used that will absorb moisture and help to keep the quarters clean. - Bedding should be free from chemical substances or irritants that are liable to injure the skin or feet, or that would be injurious to the animal if eaten. Among good substances used for bedding are straw, shavings, coarse hay, sawdust, peat moss and tan bark. The bedding in the stall should be spread so that most of it is fairly well forward, as there is a tendency for it to work backward with the movements of the animal. Heaping the bedding in the center of the stall should be avoided, in order to prevent the animals from getting cast. Rye-straw makes excellent bedding. It is bright and clean, is easily handled and wears well. The bedding should be removed from stalls in 26 The Diseases of Animals the morning, and, if possible, spread in the sun where it can be thoroughly dried; this not only purifies the bedding but puts it out of the way while the stall is being thoroughly scraped and aired. CARE OF SWINE In the rearing of swine it is important that they be not closely confined, except when they are being fattened for the market. If possible they should be allowed a large range, with much green food. Swine belong to the class which is known as omnivorous animals, because of the great variety of food, both animal and vegetable, that they eat. As a rule, swine do not thrive well when closely confined, or when fed largely on one kind of food. They may increase in flesh, but their systems seem weakened and predisposed to disease. Swine should be changed frequently from pasture to pasture, and the runs should be so arranged that the animals have plenty of clean water to drink. In sum- mer they should have some protection against the sun. In winter it is necessary to give them protection against cold, as the hair and bristles are a very poor protection. If allowed access to straw-stacks swine will burrow into the straw and secure protection in this way, but such stacks should be destroyed at the end of each season. It is still better if the straw is changed once or twice during the winter. When special pens are built for swine, they should be so arranged that they can be easily and thoroughly cleaned. Cement answers General Care of Swine 27 well for a part of the floor, but in those parts in which the animals sleep and in which young pigs are kept, a well-matched plank floor is better. Young pigs that are kept on cement floors are likely to suffer from lameness and enlarged joints. When a large number of swine are kept, it is best to have them divided into separate lots, and not to confine very many together. They should be given a variety of food and allowed access to fresh, clean earth. There is often noticed in swine a disposition to eat dirt; this indicates a craving for mineral sub- stances. This appetite can usually be satisfied by a mixture of one part of common salt, two parts of air- slaked lime, one part of sulfur, two parts of charcoal, and one part of wood-ashes. This mixture should be placed where the swine can get it freely. In case garbage or swill from cities is used, care must be taken in its feeding, as such material is likely to con- tain substances that are poisonous. Garbage or animal food that is badly decomposed is also likely to contain poisons. Swine need clean wholesome food, as well as other animals. In case swine are confined in permanent buildings during the winter, the quarters should be thoroughly cleaned, disinfected and whitewashed as soon as the animals can be turned out to pasture. It is often an excellent plan to have some rubbing- posts in the yards where swine are kept. Old cloths tied to these posts and kept saturated with crude petro- leum furnish excellent means for ridding the hogs of lice. 28 The Diseases of Animals YARDS AND CORRALS Yards and corrals in which animals have been con- fined for feeding or other purposes should be thoroughly renovated at least once a year, preferably in the spring. All manure, litter and rubbish should be removed, and puddles should be drained or filled. If any loose earth remains it should be carried away; but if this is not possible it can be stirred several times by means of a harrow or hoe, to allow the sun free access to it. If any sheds exist, they should be thoroughly cleaned and a coat of whitewash or other disinfectant applied. Allow- ing the yards and corrals to remain unoccupied through the summer is an excellent method of disinfecting. Weeds should not be allowed to grow in the yard. QUARANTINE Quarantining is the separating and isolating from healthy animals of those suffering from a contagious or infectious disease. Whenever there is suspicion of a contagious disease the animals should be quarantined until the nature of the disease is known. Healthy animals should be removed from those that are sus- pected, and taken to quarters where no sick animals have been confined. This is better than to remove the sick animals from the healthy, leaving the latter in infected quarters or on ground that may have become infected from the excretions of the sick animals. Care should further be taken that the healthy ani- mals are not exposed by means of infected food, water- Quarantine 29 ing places or feed-boxes. The sick animals should be separated from the others by some distance, and their lo- cation be such that the drainage is away from the healthy animals. Affected animals should not be allowed access to streams, as the infection may be carried by the water. Some diseases are carried from sick to healthy ani- mals by means of flies, lice, ticks, and possibly other insects. Dogs, foxes, buzzards and other animals that feed on flesh are liable to convey diseases from place to place. Persons are very liable to carry the infection on their feet after walking on infected ground or other material. When sick animals are confined in buildings it is possible to protect them from insects, so that this source of danger is eliminated. Should other cases of the disease occur among animals that have been removed from the sick, the healthy animals should again be separated from the sick and removed to other non-infected quarters. Harness, saddles, blankets, utensils, ete., that have been used on or about animals, should be boiled or otherwise disinfected before being used about healthy animals. When animals have been quarantined, a separate attendant should be secured to care for the sick ones. If this is not possible, the attendant should care for the healthy animals first, and after caring for the sick should provide himself with a change of clothing. In handling contagious diseases, precautions should always be taken that the attendant does not himself become infected; for some diseases, among them glanders, an- thrax, probably tuberculosis and some parasitic diseases, may be communicated from animals to man. CHAPTER III THE CARE OF PETS THE care of pet animals must depend very largely on the species of animal, and on the location as to whether in the city or country. In the country pets are very much more easily cared for and much less liable to disease and injury, on account of the freedom, variety of food, exercise and free surroundings. In choosing pets, it is good policy to select pure-bred animals of excellent individuality, as it costs no more to keep a good individual than a poor one, and the in- creased satisfaction that results is ample compensation. In choosing pets two points should be taken into con- sideration: (1) Docility, as it is much easier to care for quiet animals than for uneasy and nervous ones; (2) as a rule, medium-sized, short-haired animals are most easily cared for. In some cases, as in Angora cats, the long hair is a leading attraction; and these instances, therefore, are exceptions to the rule. If possible, one should select pets that can be kept for use as well as for pleasure. In those animals in which’the beauty and interest lie largely in the coat, extra care and precaution must be taken to keep it in prime condition. Light-colored animals require more attention than dark ones. In caring for pets it is important that the natural (30) Food for Pet Animals 31 tastes of the animal be taken into consideration; con- sider whether it is herbivorous, living largely upon grass and grain, or carnivorous, subsisting chiefly on meat and other animal foods. Yet domesticated ani- mals are usually not exclusively restricted to one diet, but will eat a variety of both animal and vegetable foods. Such variety, if palatable, is important in main- taining health and vigor. A food that is suited to nearly all pets, since it fur- nishes all the necessary elements for their growth, is milk. It should be fed while sweet and preferably while it is warm from the cow. Warm milk seems to possess unknown health-giving qualities that dis- appear after it has been kept a half day or more. In feeding milk to pets, care should be taken not to allow them to have too much at a time. One of the greatest dangers to pet animals is overfeeding. They should be allowed small quantities frequently in order to keep them in a thrifty, vigorous condition. DOGS Among animals that are kept for pets as well as for use, the dog undoubtedly holds the first place. Upon farms where stock is kept, a well-broken collie dog is an unfailing source of help and satisfaction, while an unbroken dog is a continual nuisance. In handling stock with a dog, it is important that the dog be well trained, and that great care be exercised while the animals are getting used to being managed by him. When these two conditions are fulfilled it is 32 The Diseases of Animals surprising how easily and economically stock can be taken care of. Dogs are usually selected on account of their beauty, size, markings, intelligence, or some individuality that may appeal to the fancy of the chooser. In deciding this matter the question of male or female is often important. If intended for a house dog, bitches are frequently preferred, as they are generally more tidy in habits and often more easily trained than male dogs. The disadvantage, provided one does not wish to breed them, is the period of heat which occurs about once in six months, beginning usually when the bitch is about one year old. During this period there is a tendency for the bitch to leave home and for other dogs to gather and remain about the premises. When bitches are kept without spaying, and it is not desired to breed them, during the period of heat they should be completely isolated at a considerable distance from other dogs, preferably in such a place as a barn loft or cellar, where the dogs will not be attracted. They should be kept isolated for at least ten days, or during the whole period of heat. If the bitch is not to be kept for breeding purposes it is usually best to have her spayed, preferably before she has come in heat at all. Spayed bitches make excellent house dogs, the only objection to them being that they take on fat readily. In some communities unspayed bitches are taxed heavily in comparison with male dogs, but a certificate showing that the bitch has been spayed usually brings them under the same tax rates as other dogs. Care of Puppies 33 If one wishes a dog to break or train for a special urpose, a young animal should be chosen. There is, f course, an increased danger of loss from death, specially if the puppy has not yet had dog distemper; ut it is a great advantage to get acquainted with the muppy, and to begin to break him while he is still ractable. Puppies, as a rule, are weaned at four to ix weeks old. After weaning they should be fed fresh alk diluted one-third with boiled water. In this milk ry crusts or a small amount of dog-cake may be soaked. \ piece of bread or dog-cake may also be given dry or them to gnaw on, but it should not be supplied n small pieces that they can swallow whole. Long- ‘aired puppies and kittens get the hair about the aouth dirty and matted with the food they eat. The ‘arts should be carefully washed, else the skin may ecome sore. If possible to avoid it, puppies should ot be washed all over until they are half grown. When it is necessary to wash puppies or kittens, se warm water and apply it with-a sponge or soft ag. Avoid immersing the animal in a cold bath, as ; is likely to cause a nervous shock. After long- aired puppies are six to eight months old, they may e washed, using soft, warm water and a mild soap. ome of the tar soaps are excellent, as they have a dothing action on the skin, and have a tendency to ‘ee the dog of vermin. After washing, the soap an be rinsed out and the hair dried by rubbing with .oths or by allowing the animal to roll in clean straw 1 a sunny place. It is important that puppies and their quarters be _C 34 The Diseases of Animals kept clean, in order to avoid injury from parasites. Young dogs should be kept in roomy quarters where they have access to a sunny yard, and a dry place in which to sleep. It is best to keep but a few together in one yard. Puppies are active animals and need much exercise. It is a good plan to take them out- side their quarters once or twice daily for exercise, but they should not be taken’ very far, especially when young. Dogs that are closely confined are likely to lack vigor and suffer from indigestion, diseases of the joints, and the like. Dogs that run wild are more difficult to break and handle. When puppies get to be two months old a little meat may be given. It should not be supplied in large pieces, for they are likely to swallow it without proper mastication. Large bones compel the dog to gnaw the meat off and are much better. When several puppies are fed together, care should be exercised that the stronger ones do not get more than their share. Again, in feeding puppies in company with old dogs, see that the puppies secure their share of the food, and that they are not bitten or injured by older ones. It is much better to feed each animal by itself, so that it will not be disturbed by others. When only a few dogs are kept, seraps from the table furnish a variety of excellent food, especially when a small amount of meat-gravy or drippings is added. When there are many dogs, well-baked corn- bread that has been slightly salted is an excellent and economical addition to the diet. Dogs always should be allowed all the clean water they want to drink. Training Dogs 35 THE BREAKING OF DOGS FOR FARM PURPOSES The essentials to a good trainer of dogs are: (1) An iterest in the animal; (2) a knowledge of what is aquired; (8) good judgment and patience. It is an xcellent plan to have an older and well-broken dog ) assist in the training, as dogs are imitative. The uppy quickly learns what is wanted by association ‘ith the older dog. In breaking dogs to handle stock, is also a great advantage to have stock that is used ) being driven by a dog, upon which to break the puppy. tock that is not used to a dog is often easily frightened, rit may fight the dog. If a puppy is hurt or gets into notion of chasing stock, bad habits may be formed iat are difficult to overcome. The first essential in breaking a dog for any purpose to teach him to mind. Dogs are intelligent and fectionate animals, and are usually gratified to do 1e will of the master. If possible, an animal should 2 broken to mind without fear of punishment. When dog obeys and does the required task, he should be ‘warded by a word, caress or bit of something to eat. Then it is necessary to punish a dog for disobedience, ie trainer should be sure that the animal understands hat is wanted, and if he refuses to do the task he i0uld be punished judiciously—the punishment de- mding largely on the nature and disposition of the »g. Dogs of a sensitive organization must be pun- hed cautiously; it is usually a good plan to shut the »g up alone after punishment and allow him to think ever. A mistake that is commonly made by novices 36 The Diseases of Animals in training dogs or other animals is to attempt to teach too much at once. A dog should be trained to do one thing, and do it well, before another lesson is attempted. Dogs that are confined either by chains or in yards are easier to break than those that run at large. When a dog has a tendency to run away and chase stock or game a strong cord attached to the collar is of great help in controlling him. If the dog is head- strong, a collar with spikes on the inside, just long enough to prick him sharply, can be used. The dog should be spoken to sharply and firmly, and if he does not mind a slight jerk on the collar will serve to re- mind him. All faults and weaknesses in young dogs should be watched for and corrected as soon as possi- ble, as they are likely to grow rapidly and to become firmly fixed habits as the animal gets older. This is especially true of a tendency to be cross to other ani- mals or to people. It is difficult to break an old dog of this vice. It is an adage that you cannot teach an old dog new tricks. In breaking dogs avoid shouting, as it is as easy to teach them to mind a single word or whistle, and much more satisfactory. One of the surest ways to spoil a dog is to club him or punish him severely for some error which he may not understand and then allow him to go free. CATS Cats hold a prominent place as pets on account of their cleanly, domestic natures, and their useful- The Household Cat 37 ness in keeping premises free from rats and mice. The chief objection to them is that they do not al- ways distinguish between animals that are to be pro- tected and those that are to be destroyed. They often prey upon the birds about the premises and even on young chickens. \ Fig. 12. The household pet In country places cats require no special care or attention except such as may be given to fancy in- dividuals. Milk and table scraps, supplemented by what they gather in foraging, furnish a good variety of food. In cities, where it is necessary to confine. them, the problem is more difficult. If possible the 38 The Diseases of Animals quarters for cats should be warm, sunny and dry. A bed of clean straw is better than a pillow, be- cause easily renewed, as it should be from time to time. A pan with dry earth or sawdust should be kept where the cat may have access to it. This should be changed frequently, as cats are cleanly animals. In feeding young cats, care must be exer- cised that they do not eat too much, as indigestion induced by this cause may bring on convulsions or “fits.” When a kitten has a convulsion it should be wrapped in warm cloths and placed in quiet quarters; after it recovers a half teaspoonful of mustard mixed with a little tepid water may be given to induce vomit- ing and thus to empty the stomach. This may be fol- lowed with one-half to one teaspoonful of castor oil administered with a little warm milk to purge the bowels. Usually cats that can run out of doors will eat grass or other green leaves that tend to cor- rect digestive troubles. When cats are confined, bits of celery may be given in the place of grass and leaves. Caring for the coats of pet animals is important. Cats and dogs can be washed frequently with some mild soap and warm soft water; the soap should then be rinsed from the skin and the hair should be laid in the proper direction before it dries; after the body is dry the coat can be gone over with a soft brush. Brushing the coat is much better than comb- ing it. Some cats can become accustomed to washing with water. but most of them resent it. A_ little Care of Oats 39 sweet cream rubbed on the coat induces the average ‘cat to lick the hair down smoothly. The following advice on the care of cats, by C. H. Jones, editor of “The Cat Journal,” is reprinted, by permission from “Country Life in America” for November, 1902: “There are two mistaken opinions regarding cats; one, that the cat is a hardy animal; the other, that a eat, no matter how or where abandoned, is able to provide for itself. “First, a cat is not a hardy animal; her organiza- tion is delicate, her nervous system sensitive. Second, a cat cannot always provide for herself, even in her natural state and with all her native instincts unim- paired. Even man, when unaided, often fails here. In hard winters the Indian starves in his wigwam, and the wild-cat starves in the woods. Much less, then, is a cat that is accustomed to the comforts of a home and the surroundings of civilized life able to take care of herself. Of all the cats abandoned each year when the summer cottages are closed, the greater part lose their ‘nine lives’ and are ‘gathered to their fathers’ long before the winter is half over. “People who pay high prices for Persians and An- goras are willing to take pains to keep them in health and life, and they try to give them proper attention; but while care is needed, it is easy to give them too much if knowledge is lacking on the part of owners. The pet is fed with wrong foods at wrong times, and if a little indisposition manifests itself it is usually faithfully drugged and killed off in the best of style. 40 The Diseases of Animals “The common causes of death among eats are teeth- ing, worms and overfeeding, especially the last. Cats should be fed only at regular intervals, like individ- uals who wish to keep well; adult cats twice a day; kittens not over four times. If there are but few eats in the house, feed them from the assortment left from the table, including a liberal proportion of vege- tables and cereals. Beef and mutton are good; also white-meated fish cooked and boned, raw cream, fresh or scalded milk. A little lack of appetite should cause no alarm. Remember that more cats die from overeating than from starvation. It is better to err on the side of underfeeding. “Soft foods, like oatmeal, must be thoroughly well cooked. Rolled oat preparations should cook at least six hours. Dry package foods are better. In ease of bowel looseness, no solid foods should be given; the animal should be fed for a time on scalded milk, which may be strengthened by adding arrowroot, rice or oatmeal water, or any of the patented baby foods. Liver is an intestinal irritant, lacking nutriment; it should be given only cooked, and occasionally as a relish. Most cats are fond of a food made of one part finely chopped beef or mutton, two parts stale whole wheat or graham bread softened with water; add an egg or two, and bake till thoroughly cooked but not erisped. This is a wholesome and an ex- cellent preparation. It is a good food to use in ship- ping. Sprinkle a little pinch of sulfur on the soft- boiled or poached egg that you give them twice a week, or if they are not partial to egg it may be sprinkled Care of Cats 41 on the other food. As sulfur is practically tasteless, they will not object to its use in this manner. ‘A common cause of sickness, especially in long- haired cats, is clogging of the stomach and intestines with hair in the shedding season. The cat should be brushed daily with a soft bristle brush, removing by this gentle process as much of the hair as possi- ble. This will not prevent the cat from licking itself and swallowing hair; but it will prevent it, to a cer- tain extent, from becoming dangerously injured by | it. During the ‘molting season,’ give daily with her food a dessert-spoonful of fresh olive oil; if she ob- jects to this, mix it with a little juice from a can of salmon. The oil will assist her in disposing of the hair in a natural manner. If the cat throws up casts of hair, congratulate her, as it is one of nature’s ways of affording relief. “Cats should be kept free from matted clots of hair, for vermin deposit their eggs in these. A comb will disentangle them if used in time, but if they do not easily yield, work them full of vaseline, and leave over night; this loosens them so that a comb should remove them; but if they still resist, remove them with scissors, taking care not to hurt the skin. This matted hair is usually dead hair and should come out. “Washing cats is not a good practice. In ease of sickness, for sanitary purposes, dry boracic acid, dusted into the hair and brushed out, will accomplish the re- sult desired with less annoyance to the animal. If the cat needs cleaning, fill the fur with damp. warm bran and brush it. 42 The Diseases of Animals * At the first sign of dryness of the ear, fill with dry boracic acid and leave in the ear. This applied daily for a week will usually bring about natural and health- ful conditions. If the kitten scratches her ear, crying at the same time, examine the ear; if it is coated or partially filled with a dry, scaly, bloody substance, a few drops of peroxide of hydrogen mixed with an equal quantity of water, dropped into the ear, will cause a foam to appear. Wipe this off with a soft dry cloth, ‘then dust in dry boracic acid. A few such treatments will usually effect a cure. The malady, if neglected, almost always ends in an abscess. “In general, one should not be in too much ‘haste to doctor a cat. If there is no certainty as to what her trouble is, and no specialist on cat diseases ac- cessible, it is better simply to keep her warm and feed her on light diet, and leave nature to effect a cure. This is far preferable to filling her system with a lot of drugs that are perhaps not indicated by the symptoms. Remedies recommended for dogs are gen- erally fatal to cats, and must be used with great eaution and given only by a specialist. Anything containing carbolic acid is almost certain death to a eat. A sick cat wants quiet; so do not torment her by fussing over her all the time, for by this mis- taken kindness you may kill the animal. “Tf a kitten has a fit, which is usually caused by teething, worms, too much or too strong food, sub- merge her at once to the neck in warm water, with cold water on her head; leave for five or ten minutes, then dry with a soft cloth, old newspapers, or tissue Oare of Rabbits 43 paper, and lay in a dark place, cover warmly and let alone. If you notice the spasm coming on, place cold water on her head immediately and it will usually prevent the trouble. There is no danger of being bit- ten by a kitten in a fit. ‘‘A powdery substance through the fur indicates fleas. Saturate with olive oil. This brings the vermin to the surface, where they may be easily killed. If it is a nursing kitten, wash, after using the oil, with white castile, or some mild antiseptic soap and thoroughly dry; otherwise the mother may desert her. If she is not nursing, leave the oil on for a few days. It does not make her look pretty, but she will not mind this and you need not, as it gives her perfect rest from the fleas. Never believe that a flea is dead until you hear it crack or see it in the hot water. Fleas quickly reduce the vitality of a cat; she will die if they are not removed. Cat-fleas will not get on human beings. Cat-fleas are different from dog-fleas.” RABBITS AND HARES Rabbits and hares (Fig. 18) are popular pets and are also used extensively as food. They are easily han- dled and kept. While naturally herbivorous, they will eat a great variety of food. Pens for rabbits should be constructed in dry, sunny situations, and should have good drainage. The walls of the pens should be strongly constructed, so that they will not only prevent the escape of the rabbits, but also protect them against the attacks of dogs from the outside. To keep 44 The Diseases of Animals the rabbits from burrowing out, the walls must be ecar- ried down deep into the earth, or else-the floor of the yards must be paved or covered with chicken- wire. Fig. 13. Belgian hares Rabbits are fond of burrowing, and it is therefore generally considered beneficial to have the floors of dry earth. If the pens are kept well littered with straw or similar material, the animals seldom dig much, but if they once get access to the earth they will burrow rapidly. Rabbits and Hares 45 A yard sixteen by twenty feet will accommodate twenty rabbits, or even more. A part of the yard should be covered in some way to afford shade. In connection with the yard, a house five by eight feet should be constructed; it should be well ventilated and lighted, with the window so arranged that it can be darkened. The entrance from the yard to the house should be through about two lengths of five-inch tile, one joint inclining downward from the yard and the second joint inclined upward into the house. Rabbits seem to enjoy running through a tunnel. It is useful in preventing the entrance of cats, as they will seldom erawl through a long tunnel of this character. Should dogs gain entrance to a yard they will usually dig at the end of the tile rather than attempt to dig under the wall. Straw can be used for litter in the house, but it should be removed frequently and burned. During the winter months rabbits and Belgian hares can be fed clover or alfalfa hay, oats, apples, cabbages and other materials of this character. The pens should be cleaned frequently and disinfected with a five per eent solution of carbolic acid every month or six weeks to prevent infectious diseases and to destroy parasites. . In breeding rabbits, one buck is usually sufficient for twenty does. The buck and the does should be kept separate. When a doe is.about to give birth to young, she should be separated from the others until the litter is two weeks old. When the bucks get to be two months old they should be castrated, or they will fight each other and will not fatten readily. 46 The Diseases of Animals CAVIES OR GUINEA PIGS The cavy or Guinea pig makes an admirable pet, and it may be used as food. It is a prolific breeder. It occurs in great variety of color and texture of fur. Cavies are easily kept and are free from the strong odor that characterizes rabbits. When it is necessary to keep the pet animals in a small yard or even in the house or barn, the Guinea pig is preferable to the rabbit. The food it requires is practically the same as for rabbits, with bread and milk and table scraps. Fresh water should be supplied often to rabbits and Guinea pigs, and the quarters always should be kept clean and dry. When rabbits and Guinea pigs are kept in large numbers and the quarters are not well cared for, an infectious pneumonia or blood-poisoning often breaks out among them and destroys large numbers. In ease such a disease appears, the uninfected animals should be removed to a clean, dry place. The old quarters should be thoroughly cleaned, then disinfected with a 5 per cent solution of carbolic acid, and after being thoroughly dried should be whitewashed or painted before other animals are placed in them. PET POULTRY Most children are fond of pet animals. The pets are not only a source of much enjoyment but are of real educational value. Pet animals instil a love for nature and a respect for the feelings and rights of other Pet Poultry 47 beings. The necessary feeding, handling and care develop the feeling of responsibility that is of great importance in the training of children. The essential requirements in children’s pets are that they should be docile, attractive, cleanly and easily cared for. They Fig. 14. Brahma and chicks should not be very delicate, else they cannot be easily raised with a moderate amount of attention. Pets should also be such as are adapted to the surroundings. Pet poultry, as a rule, meets the requirements more fully than other animals. Chickens and some other poultry can be kept in small numbers almost anywhere, if a small plot of ground is available, or even in a barn. The food is readily procured, the birds are easily cared for, and returns 48 The Diseases of Animals come quickly. For farm purposes, the American breeds, such as the Wyandottes, Plymouth Rocks and Rhode Island Reds, give general satisfaction. The Bantams are very attractive to children, but their general utility is impaired by their small size. Fig. 15. Ducks with a hen mother Children should be consulted in the arrangement of quarters; and the devising of locations for the nests can be left largely to them. It is a source of delight to arrange nests or to find those that the hens have located, and the gathering, caring for and disposal of the eggs is an interesting and important training. The - selection of eggs for hatching, the setting of the hen and her care during the sitting period, the evidence of Pet Poultry 49 the young chicks in the shell, “pipping” of the egg, the bursting of the shell and appearance of the active fluffy little chicks are constant sources of wonder and expectation. The care of the mother-hen and her brood is perhaps the most interesting to children. The motherly solicitude of the hen for her chicks and the eare and protection she. gives her brood appeal to childish sympathies. When it is desirable to make pets of chickens so that they can be readily handled, young chicks should be selected and the child be allowed to train them by care- ful handling. Chickens are easily taught simple lessons, To do this a little attractive food is the best means of training them to respond to simple demands. Care is required in handling chickens in order to avoid hurting them, as pain soon makes them timid. The proper method of handling is to catch the chicken either by the legs or between the outspread hands. The chicken can be carried by tneking it under the right arm, in the upright position with the head forward. Avoid injur- ing the chicken by carrying with the head downward or holding by the wings. Chickens are so easily and quickly reared that the children may easily be set to experimenting with differ- ent kinds. For efficiency, however, one kind is prefer- able to many. See that the quarters are light, warm ard airy, and do not confine the food to grain alone. BE Somnoampwror Fig. 16. Tu Parts or a HORSE Muzzle Nostril Forehead Face Cheek Poll Crest Neck Shoulder Point of shoulder Breast Elbow 13, 4 Fore-arm Knee . Cannon bone Fetlock . Pastern . Hoof . Bae . Ribs—side of chest Belly . Blank Croup 32. Point of hock 33, Cannon bone 34, Fetlock 35. Pastern 36. Hoof CHAPTER IV THE HORSE—JUDGING AND HANDLING Tue ability to judge horses and to determine their relative values for definite purposes is usually acquired only by experience. There is no short-cut way of de- terming the merits or soundness of a horse. The horse- man must familiarize himself thoroughly with the animal: and the better he likes a horse the better judge he will be. Some points which are recognized as impor- taut by good judges are mentioned below. These points are, of course, not infallible, but they may be suggestive to the novice. AGE The age of a horse determines, in a general way, the limit of its usefulness. Still, it is not always a sure guide to follow. A well-preserved horse, of good disposition and nervous temperament, is often younger at sixteen, as far as activity and usefulness go, than many another horse is at eight. But the average horse has reached the limit of his usefulness at twenty years of age. Exceptional cases may not have entirely out- lived their usefulness at thirty, and instances are re- corded of horses having lived for more than fifty years. A horse’s age is commonly determined by an exam- ination of the individual teeth. This is usually an ac- (51) 52 The Diseases of Animals curate method until the tenth or twelfth year. After this period the general appearance of the teeth and the bones of the head are relied upon in determining age. In colts, the bones of the face and lower jaw have a full, rounded appearance, because the roots of the teeth extend far into the bone. The face gradually becomes more concave on the sides, the lower jaw thinner from side to side, and the lower edge much sharper. The hollows above the horse’s eyes become deeper, and the bones more prominent, due to the absorption of fat from this region. Unserupulous horse-jockeys sometimes make a small incision through the skin and fill up this depression by blowing it full of air. This practice is commonly called “puffing the glims.” It is a deception that is easily recognized. As horses get older there is a tendency for the hair to turn gray in the region of the muzzle and the eyes, and there is a general appearance of advancing age that is difficult to describe. THE TEETH OF THE HORSE In the mature horse’s mouth, the teeth which are used for biting the food are twelve in number, six in each jaw. They are situated just within the lips, and are called the incisors. The molars, or grinders, are the large double teeth, whose function it is to mas- ticate, or grind, the food. There are twenty-four of these, six in each half of both upper and lower jaws. In males, there is an extra tooth called the canine, or “bridle” tooth on each half jaw, in the space between the incisors and the molars, These are sometimes found Names of the Teeth 53 in mares, but are usually small and not well developed. In a complete set of teeth, the mare has thirty-six, and the horse forty. Small, extra molars are sometimes found in front of the first molars on the upper jaw, (rarely on the lower), commonly called “wolf teeth.” The molar teeth are distinguished by numbering them from before backwards, and by using the terms right and left,—as, the third right upper molar. The incisor teeth are named according to their position: the two teeth occupying the middle are called the central incisors; one on either side of these is called a lateral incisor ; the two outer ones, one on either side, are called the corner incisors. A horse has two sets of teeth. The temporary, or “milk” set, twenty-four in number, consists of twelve incisors and twelve molars. There are three incisors and three molars in each half of each jaw. These dif- fer from the permanent set described above by being smaller, whiter, and having a well-defined constriction, or neck, at the gum. The tempurary teeth in colts are erupted, or “cut,” as follows: At birth a colt has three temporary molars on each jaw and the two central incisors or “nippers.” They may be covered by thin skin, which breaks within a day or two. The lateral incisors on both jaws are erupted at four to six weeks, and the corner incisors at six to ten months. Thus, at one year old the colt has a full set of twenty-four temporary teeth. The temporary incisors are replaced by permanent teeth, as follows: The two central incisors are shed at about two and a half years, and the permanent ones 54 The Diseases of Animals are up “in wear” at three years. The lateral incisors are shed at three and a half years and the permanent ones are up and in wear at four years. The corner incisors are shed at four and a half and the per- manent ones are up and in wear at five. (Fig. 17). The molars are erupted and replaced as follows: The fourth molar on each jaw (which is always a permanent molar) is erupted at ten to twelve months; the fifth permanent mo- lar, at two to two and a half years, and the sixth usually at four and a half to five. The first and second molars, which are tempo- rary, are shed and re- placed by permanent ones at two to two and a half years of age. The third temporary molar is replaced by a permanent one at about the age of three and a half years. In males, the canine or “bridle” teeth are erupted at about four and a half years of age. A five-year-old colt has a “full mouth” of permanent teeth (Fig. 18), and at this age Fig. 17. Horse's teeth at four years of age Fig. 18. Horse’s teeth at five years of age Horse’s Teeth 55 a colt becomes a horse and a filly becomes a mare. The temporary teeth are usually shed easily; the per- manent teeth pushing up from below cause the roots of the temporary ones to be absorbed, until they finally become mere “ caps,” attached to the gum. Sometimes the tem- porary corner in- cisors are extracted in order to make a colt or a filly appear older than it is. Such a practice is not to be commended. When the perma- nent incisors are first erupted, well-defined “date-cavities” exist in their upper sur- faces. These cavi- ties, dark brown or black in color, nar- row from before back and wide from side to Fig. 20. Horse’s teeth at seven years of age side, extend quite a depth into the tooth. Each date-cavity is surrounded by a very narrow band of enamel, which can be distinguished from the yellower dentine that com- poses most of the substance of the tooth. The date- cavities wear out and disappear from the lower incisors at the following ages: From the lower central incisors 56 The Diseases of Animals the cavity has largely disappeared at six years (Fig. 19), the lateral at seven years (Fig. 20) and the corners at eight years of age (Fig. 21). The date-cavities in the incisors of the upper jaw do not dis- appear as regularly as the lower, and are less to be depended upon. In general, the date- cavities disappear from the central up- per incisors from nine to nine and a half years; from the lateral upper incisors from ten to ten and a half; and from the upper corner incisors from eleven to twelve years. Date-cavities sometimes persist in the upper incisors for a longer period, especially in horses that are stall-fed. In examining date-cavities, a careful com- parison with the preceding and succeeding years should always be made. After a date-cavity is worn out, a small black spot called a “dental star” remains, and frequently a small eavity, which should not be mistaken for a date-cavity. In young horses, the incisor teeth are Fig. 22. Horse’s teeth at ten years of age broad from side to side, and approach the perpendicular with reference to the jaw. As the horse gets older, the incisors wear down, becoming narrower from side to side and wider from before back, so that the upper surface of Fig. 21. Horse’s teeth at eight years of age Teeth of Horses and Cattle 57 the tooth presents a triangular outline. The incisor teeth also tend to become more horizontal, causing the profile of the incisors to become “chisel-shaped.” As horses get older, the teeth grow up and out of the jaw- bone, until in aged horses the molar teeth may become old “snags,” so loosely attached to the jaw that they may be moved with the fingers or may drop out. A deception that was formerly practiced, but is seldom met with at the present, was commonly called “bishop- ing.” This consisted in cutting artificial date-cavities in the incisors, and blackening them with a hot iron. The shape of the tooth, and the ab- sence of the ring of enamel should ren- der deception by such a practice im- possible. In order to be able to determine the age of horses, a careful comparative study should be made of the teeth of animals whose ages are definitely known. Fig. 23. Horse’s teeth at sixteen years of age CONTRASTS WITH CATTLE In cattle, there are eight incisor teeth on the lower jaw, and none on the upper. The two central incisors are named as in the horse; the next two, one on either side of the central incisors, are called internal laterals; the next two, one on either side of these, are called the external laterals; the remaining two are called the corners, 58 The Diseases of Animals The temporary incisors in cattle are erupted, or eut. as follows: The central incisors or nippers are up at birth, the internal lateral at one week old, the external lateral at two weeks, and the corner incisors at three weeks old. They are replaced by permanent incisors approximately as follows, though they vary much more than in the colt: The central incisors are replaced at twelve to eighteen months; the internal laterals at about two and a half years; the external laterals at three to three and a half years; and the corner incisors at about three and a half years. In horned cattie, a ring of the horn makes its ap- pearance at three years of age, and a new ring is added annually thereafter. COLOR OF HORSES In selecting horses, the color is largely a matter of per- sonal preference; but, other things being equal, horses of decided dark color are preferable. A blood bay, mahogany brown, dark chestnut and black are usually given preference in the order named. The objection to white or light-colored horses is the difficulty in keeping them clean, the looks of light hair upon dark clothing when the animals are shedding their coats, and the fact that such animals are subject to melanotic tumors of the skin. Horses having white noses and muzzles are liable to inflammation of the skin in this region when turned out to pasture.