31EDbb D1Q3 6750 1 ||^||i ;■ ^ j^%*; ^"'•i.> 'in'"'iri**'f ulile, white. B.B. 1:12 and i:!:l(l',U. Vai. anemoniflora, .'^ii-m. Fls. large, double, outer iii-t.als wliit.-, iun.r ..n.s much smaller, yellow. B.M. 51,J2. Var. oleiJera, Kehd. ( C. oleif- era, Lindl.). Of more robust habit, with Ivs. and the single white fls. larger than in the type. B.R. 11: 942. L.B.C. 11:1065. AA. Jfls.pedicelled, nodding, mostly axillary: calyx- teeth persistent. Thea. Thia, Link. (C. thelfera. Griff. Thea Sinensis, Linn.). Tea. Shrub, sometimes tree, to 30 ft. : Ivs. elliptic-lance- olate or obovate-lanceolate, acuminate, serrate, glabrous, sometimes pubescent beneath : fl. white, fragrant, 1- ly^in. broad; petals 5. China. India.— Usually two varie- ties are distinguished: Var. Boh^a ( Thin linhrn. Linn.). Lvs. elliptic, dark green, ti> :: in. Imts: branclji-s ciect. B.M. 998. L.B.C. 3: 226. Var. viridia (Thia viridis, Linn.). Lvs. pale green, lanceolate, to 5 in. long: branches .spreading. B.M. 3148. L.B.C. 3:227 and 19: 1828. The black tea, however, and green tea of commerce do not come from certain varieties, but are the result of different treatment of the leaves after gathering. C. axillaris, Roxb.= Grordonia anomala.— C. drupifera, Lour. (C. Kissi, Wall.). Shrub to 8 ft.: lvs. elliptic, long acuminate: fls. l/^in. wide, fragrant, white; petals obovate. Himal., India. L.B.C. 19:1813.— C. euryoXdes. Lindl. (Thea euryoides. Booth). Shrub to 4 ft.: lvs. ovate-lanceolate, silky beneath : tls. white, nodding, axUlary, rather small. B.R. 12:983. L.B.C. 15: 1493.— O. euryoides, Hort.= C. rosiflora. var. maliflora.- C. rosifldra. Hook. (C.Sasanqua, fl. rubro, Sims). Shrub: lvs. ovate, acumi- nate ; fls. pink : petals 5. obeordate : ovary glabrous. China. P \I W44 Var mnliflhra Relid (C maliflora, Lindl.). Pis. double, pink. B.R. 7:547. L.B.C. 12: 1134. B.M. 2080. Alfred Rehder. Camellias are not hard to grow, either the well- known C. Japon- ica or the less common C. Sa- sanqua, and C, Thea, the Tea Plant. They re- quire a coolhouse, not too dry an atmosphere, and 330. Camellia Japonica — I. A. Downing. must never suffer from dryness at the roots ; a somewhat shady position is helpful, and good ventilation is essen- tial. A night tem- perature of 45°-50° P. is best for them while at rest ; this is also the time of blooming, but it may be increased during the period of growth ; the day temperature should be from 60°-70° F. The soil for es- tablished plants should be made mainly of well-rotted sods, to which should be added some leaf-mold, rotted cow-raanure, and enough sand to insure good drain- age ; sod and leaf -mold should be unsifted. For young plants, the Dutch growers use a rather fine soil of peat, leaf -mold and sand ; the Japanese gardeners use 331. Camellia Jap^ President Clark 226 CAMELLIA a heavier soil, apparently cuntainin^ some clay. The pots and tubs should be well dr;iini-y sphagnum to insure durability, the ohler plants not requiring frequent shifts. Potting should be done just before new growth starts, when the flowering is about over; the exact time can be determined by noting the beginning of the root growth, which generally precedes the expanding of the leaf -buds. The soil should be moist, not wet, and made firm. Large shifts should be avoided; in many cases, by renewing the drainage and removing the surface soil, a larger pot will be found imnecessary. After potting, the temperature may be increased, and the plants should be kept close until a new growth is established. When the weather in May becomes settled, they should be placed in summer quarters. This may be a cool green- house, well shaded, or, preferably, a position in the open air, protected from sun and wind. Lath screens maybe employed, or the shade of trees or fences. In any case there must be plenty of light and air. Great care must always be given to watering, but especially at this time, while they are making and ripening their growth ; the dropping of flower buds in November is often the result of careless watering in summer. Plenty of water must be given to the roots, never in driblets, and the foliage should It syriii^'id night and mornini^ in dry weather. The funil)h';tppiication of water in tlu- f-imi of spraynot only k(M-ps thf plant in good condition, but eht'cks mealy- bug and red-spider. In September they should be put in the cool end of the coolhouse, or they can be stored in a pit and brought in later. The Camellia is nearly hardy, but should not be exposed to actual frost. Large speci- mens can be planted out in a coolhouse or winter gar- den. They thrive wonderfully in the evenly moist soil of such a position, and give an abundant bloom at Christ- mas and New Year, when flowers are scarce ; the foliage, too, can be freely cut, since growth under these condi- tions is so much improved. Propagation is now effected by cuttings and "grafts. Formerly inarching and even layering were employed. Cuttings should be made, November to January, from wood of the previous season's growth, from 13^-2 or 2% inches long, each having from 1-3 eyes; in single-eye cuttings the leaf is left entire, in others 1 or 2 leaves are removed. Plant firmly in sharp sand, keeping them cool, well watered and carefully shaded for the first few weeks. Sometimes they will be sufliciently rooted in June for potting in thumbs, but at others they will not be ready until October. Shift on the young plants as their growth requires, never giving them too large pots; they make a surprisingly good growth when once established. Flower buds should be picked from young stock ; sometimes there is trouble from blind eyes, but a new bud will eventually form. Grafting is done in November, Decem- ber and January, using the improved veneer graft ; a close frame is not necessary, but is often used, in which case great care must be given to watering and ventila- tion. If raffia is used for tying, it should be smeared with grafting wax to prevent decay; the process of unit- ing is lengthy. Stock can be obtained from seed or by cuttings of easily rooted varieties. Mealy-btig and red- spider can be avoided by proper syringing ; thrips and aphis are kept down by tobacco fumigation; scale must be checked by washing and spraying; a troublesome leaf- eating insect is only removed by hand picking. Consult Practical Camellia Culture, by Robert Halli- day, Baltimore, 1880. lUus. The only other American book on Camellias is an American edition of The Abbe Berlese's Monography of the Genus Camellia, by Gen. Dearborn; Boston, 1838. For a list of varieties, see also Nouvelle Iconographie des Camellias, Amb. Verschaffelt Fils; Ghent, 185&-60. Illus. B. M. Watson. Camellias are general favorites with most people, and, when well-grown, have few equals among hardwooded, cool, greenhouse plants. They may be propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering, grafting or inarching ; the two latter methods are best for the double forms, as they succeed better when grafted or inarched on the single forms than on their own roots, the operation be- ing performed immediately after the flowering season, or just as soon as new growth is about to commence, and the method known as "side-grafting" is best if this means of propagation is used. The single species are CAMPANULA best propagated by seeds, if these can be obtained fresh. They should be sown in early spring, in 4-inch pots, containing a mixture of peat, leaf-nn.ld and sand, in equal proportions. The pots should be plac^'d in a warm temperature, where they will usually germinate in from 4 to 6 weeks. If propagated by cuttings, the half-ripened wood should be chosen, and the cuttings inserted around the edge of 4-inch pots containing a sandy, peaty mixture, pressed very firm. The pots should be placed in a shaded, close position, where an even temperature of about 60° can be maintained. The pots plunged in a half -spent hotbed would be an ideal place. If carefully attended to, they should be rooted in about two months, after which they sliould be potted singly, in small pots, and grown on as rapidly as possi- ble. When of suitable height, stopping should be at- tended to, to induce a bushy habit. As the plants in- crease in size, a slightly heavier soil should be used when potting, a mixture of equal parts loam, leaf-mold and fibrous peat being most suitable. Camellias re- quire at all seasons a good supply of water at the roots, and during the flowering season they should have an abundance. If allowed to become dry, the flower buds will fall off. They also require to be shaded from direct sunlight during the spring and summer months. A lean-to greenhouse, with a north aspect, is an ideal one in which to grow Camellias. In such a house they might be planted out, providing an abundance of air could be given during the summer ; they make miich larger plants and flower more freely when planted out than when grown in pots or tubs. The flowering season is usually from the beginning of Ffbruary to the middle of April, if grown in ordinary vtnA greenhouse tempera- ture, but they will stand ;X'^iitIe forcing if the flowers are wanted earlier. After flowering, they should be kept syringed to encourage the new growth, and also to keep them free from thrips. If grown in pots or tubs, they should be placed in a sheltered, shaded position outside for the summer. y, -, i-i Edward J. Canning. CAMEL'S THORN, ^^g AUuigi. CAMPANULA (Latin, a little bell). CampamtUlcece. Bell Fluwer. A genus of about 300 species, confined to the northern hemisphere, and containing some of the most popular garden plants, especially of hardy her- baceous perennials. The root-lvs. are usually larger than the stem-lvs., and often of different shape, and more or less transitory. Fls. blue, violet or white ; calyx 5-fid ; corolla 5-lobed or 5-fid ; stamens 5, free ; fila- ments wide at the base, membranaceous ; stigmas 3 or 5, filiform : capsule 3-5-valved, dehiscing laterally by 3-5 valves : seeds ovate, complanate, or ovoid. Allied genera of garden value are Adenophora, Canarina, Jasi- one, Lightfootia, Phyteuma, Platycodon, Specularia, Symphyandra, Trachelium, and Wahienbergia, in which genera many*species originally described as Campanu- las may be sought. Of these, perhaps the two best known cases are Platycodon grandiflorum, the "Balloon Flower," with its characteristic inflated buds, dark green, glossy leathery Ivs., and Specularia Speculum { C. Speculum), " Venus' Looking-glass," a pretty annual, which grows in the grain fields of S. Europe, and is cult, for its violet fls. with a white eye. The calyx -tube of Specularia is much longer, proportionately, than in any Campanula. Botanically, Campanulas are divided into two impor- tant groups, based on the presence or absence of calyx appendages. The subgenus Medium has the appen- dages, and Eucodon lacks them. In straightening out one's garden labels, the calyx appendages are one of the first things to be looked for, and they are often minute and disguised. In cultivation, Campanulas tend to become taller and more robust, less hairy, more branched, and more floriferous. A very few have white or yellowish fls., with no blue or violet forms. Any blue or violet-flowered form is likely to have white varieties, and double and semi-double forms are common in 3 or 4 of the most popular species. All flowers tend to become larger and more numerous on a stem. In culti- vation, the 3-ceIled species are likely to have 5 stigmas instead of 3, and .5-celled capsules, often along with normally constructed fls. on the same plant. The height CAMPANULA CAMPANULA 227 is the most variable feature of all, and in the scheme below ('. <''i rp'ificit and C. punctata especially will seem wrongly jihu-i-d to many. But the characters usetl by De CaudoUe iu vol. 7, part 2 of the Prodromus are well- nigh useless to the gardener, and nothing else but a distinction of height can bring out the two important cultural groups of Campanulas, viz: Border or tall kinds, and rock-garden or dwarf kinds. The best gar- den monograph of Campanulas is by P. W. Mever, in The Garden, 48:294-299 (1895). See, also. The Garden for May 13, 1899, and 8: 173-180 (1875). The most popular of allCampanuhis is the ( ';iutfrl»ury Bell (C. Medium and its var. aihir" I'lln i,i,i ). Of all wild forms the best known is certainty ('■ i-ofintl.:i!il\ <■, M,- dium, C. 7-otundifoUa (in its many fomisl, <'. /iiimnuj- alis, C. persicifolta, C {ih-»)ur<(ta and ('. i'>iri>atira. Of the rock-garden UIimN, \\\y iin>st iM-jnihir in America are possibly C. Carp'iiir^i . t '. r,r s/utos^i . -aiuI <'. mtumJi- folia. The greatest curicisitirs :irc ('. pimrtula, ('. tunc- rostyla, C Zoysii and C. rot a ml i folia, var. sohlaiielliv- flora. For exhibition and for pot-culture, C.pijramidnlis is most used. For pendent effects in rockeries, baskets or window boxes, C. fragilis is best. For edgings, C Carpatica is perhaps the favorite. For large, isolated specimens, G. pyramitlalis, the tallest .species, is best. F. W. Meyer's choice of varieties and classification should be consulted by all who intend to import Cam- panulas. Kngland is probably the most favored spot in the world for the culture of Bell-flowers, and the Eng- lish dealers offer the greatest variety. Unfortunately, Campanula-culture is at a low ebb in America to-day, partly because the plants are less hardy here, and also because rock-gardens and amateurs' collections are less frequent than in England. Many failures with Campan- ulas, however, are directly traceable to ignorance of their natural terra of life. Some opecies are perennial in the wild, but practically biennial in cultivation, and each kind must be studied" by itself. Unless otherwise specified, they are presumed to be perennial. C Me- dium may be treated as a hardy annual or biennial, or as a tender annual or biennial. The general rule is that Campanulas give the most and best flowers in the sec- ond year, but C Medium can be sown indoors in early spring and set out later, with the expectation of getting the best bloom the same year. As a rule, all border Campanulas that are propagated by division should be divided every year, or every 2 years at most. Mr. Cam- eron recommends several species which are not de- scribed below, as they can be obtained only through botanic gardens. W. M. The genus Campanula is a very important one, and contains many showy and useful plants. Their cultiva- tion is very easy, and most of the strong-growing kinds can be grown in any rich, well-drained garden soil, while the dwarf kinds can be grown in the rockery, and many of them in the front row of the mixed border. Propagation is done either by division, cuttings orseeds. The genus can easily be divided into three groups — annuals, biennials, and perennials. The annuals can be raised in the border by sowing the seeds late in April or May, or raised in the green- house and then transferred to the border. The best of the annuals are C. ramosissima and var. alba, C. dra- bifolia, C. Erinns, C. macroslyla, and C. Americana. Of the biennials, many will flower the first season if the seeds are sown early in spring in the greenhouse and the plants put out-of-doors when the weather is favorable. One of the most important is C. Medium (Canterbury Bells), and its numerous varieties. Its variety calycanfhema is so named because the calyx has broadened out into a saucer-shaped secondary flower, which is very showy and interesting. Canterbury Bells are generally raised from seeds, which can be sown in April, May or later, in pots, boxes or beds, and can then be transferred into some sheltered place where they can be slightly protected during the winter, and then trans- planted in spring to their permanent places into good, rich soil, where they will make a great show if they have obtained the right treatment. A few other good biennials are C. primulmfolia, G. Sibirica, G. spicata, and G, thyrsoides. Of the perennial species, the best border plants are the following : G. Carpatica and vars. alba and turbi- nata ; C. (7?omcraio, especially var. Dahurica ; G. lac- tiflora : C. hitifolia, especially its vars. eriocarpa and maci-initliit ; ('. nobilis (about 2 ft. in height); C.per- sicifo/la :nid its numerous vars., especially the white kinds ; ('. jiinitiiita (about 1% ft.); C. pyramidalis, a very showy pUant when well grown, but not quite relia- ble in the eastern states as to hardiness ; makes a good pot-plant for the cool greenhouse ; O. rapunciiloides, which spreads rapidly and must be so placed that it will not crowd out the other plants that are near it ; C. ro- tundifolia ; G. Traehelium ; G. Van Souttei , a, hyhrid, and one of the best bell flow The following are the best low-growing kinds for the rockery ; G. Carpatica and its varieties, C. Caucasica., C. fragilis (which needs protection, but makes a goo