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Robert E.- Gross Collection

A Memorial to the Founder of the

Business Administration Library Los Angeles

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DESCRIPTION

O F

ENGLAND and WALES.

CONTAINING A particular Account of each County,

WITH ITS

Soils, Fossils,

Antiquities,

Curiosities,

Situation,

Figure,

Extent,

Climate,

Rivers,

Lakes,

Mineral

TERS,

Wa-

Caverns,

Plants and Mi- nerals,

Agriculture,

Civil and Eccle- siastical Di- visions, 1 Cities,

AND THE

Towns,

Palaces,

Seats,

Corporations,

Markets,

Fairs,

Manufactures,

Trade,

Sieges,

Battles,

Lives of the illullrious Men each County has

produced.

Embellifhed with two Inindred and forty Copper Plates,

O F

PALACES, CASTLES, C ATHEDRALSi ■"

THE

Ruins of Roman and Saxon Buildings ;

AND OF

Abbeys, Monasteries, aud other Religious Houses.

Befides a Variety of Cuts of

URNS, INSCRIPTIONS, and other ANTIQUITIES. >

VOL. V.

LONDON:

Panted for Newbery and Carnan, No. 65, the North Side of St. Paul's Cliurch-yard.

M DCC LXIX.

C 3 J

A DESCRIPTION

O F

ENGLAND and WALES. HUNTINGDONSHIRE.

^^ UNTINGDONSHIRE, or Huk^ ^ ^ TINGTON'SHIRE, 13 an inland coun-

^ H 'I -ty, which takes its name from Hun- \j| p tingdon, or Huntington, the coun*

^^ ty town, and is one of the leaft counties in England. It is bounded on the eaft hy Cambridgeihire, on the fouth by Bedford/hire, -on the weft by Northamptonfhire, and on tho tiorth by a part of Northamptonfhire and Lincoln- ihire ; it extending twenty-four miles from north to fouth; eighteen in breadth from eaft to weft j ;and about fixty-feven in circumference.

In the time of the Romans this county was part of the diftricl inhabited by the Iceni, who alfo extended their dominion over the counties of Suf- folk, Norfolk and Cambridgefhire. However^ ^under the Saxons, Huntingdonfhire was feparated ^OQi that tracl of country formerly polTcired by A 2 the

4 A Description of

the Iceni, and became part of the kingdom of Mercia. Mr. Camden informs us, that he found in an ancient furvey, that this county was a fo- red: till the reign of Henry the Second. But, be that as it will, it is certain that it was greatly ra- vaged by the Danes, which obliged many families to leave it, fo that it became very thin of people; but the Danes being at length conquered by king Alfred, that prince obliged them either to depart, or to embrace Chrifttanity.

The principal rivers of Huntingdonfliire, are the Oufe and the Nen. The Oufe rifes near Brackley in Northamptonftiire, enters this county at St. Neots, then runs north-eart by Huntingdon, and fome other towns, and, at length, having tra- verfed Huntingdonfhire, Cambridgefhire and Nor- folk, in which courfe it is joined by feveral other rivers, it falls into the German ocean near Lynn-* Regis, in the laft mentioned county.

The Nen has its fource near Daventry in Nor* thamptonfhire, and running north-eaft almoft pa- rallel to the river Oufe, winds round the north- weft and north boundaries of this county, where it forms feveral large bodies of water, which the inhabitants call Meers. The firft of thefe meers, or lakes, is called Wittlefey-Meer, and is no lefis than fix miles long, and three broad. The other confiderable meers formed by the river Nen, are Ug-meer, Brick-meer, Ramfey-meer, and Ben- wick-meer ; from whence this river, continuing its courfe through Cambridgefhire and Lincolnfhire, falls into the German ocean near Wiibich in Cambridgefhire.

It is remarkabable that the above meers, particu- larly Wittlefey-meer, are frequently thrown into the moft violent agitations, without the lead breath of wind being perceived, to the great ter- ror and danger of the fifhermen and others, who

pafs

HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 5

pafs thefe lakes, whofe agitations are generally iuppofed to arife from eruptions or fubterranean winds.

W^th refpCsSl to mineral fprings, there are two at Hailvvefton, near St. Neots, one of which is of a brackifh talle, and is recommended in all cu- taneous diforders ; the other is frefh, and is faid to be good againft dimnefs of fight. St, Ives was alfo once remarkable for its medicinal waters.

The air of this county is in general very good; except in the northern part, where it is rendered lefs wholefome than many other counties, by the damps and fogs which arife from the ftagnating waters of the fens and meers with v/hich it abounds. The foil is in general very fertile. In the hilly parts and dry lands it yields great crops of corn, and affords excellent pafture for fheep ; and the meadows in the low lands are exceeding rich, feeding abundance of fine cattle, not only for daughter, but for the dairy ; and the cheefe made at Stilton, a village near Yaxley, known by the name of Stilton cheefe, is ufually ftiled the Par- mefan of England. The inhabitants are well fup- plied with great plenty of water-fov/1, as well as fi(h, and turf for firing, which laft is a very ufe- ful commodity, as both wood and coals are fcarce. Moft of the plants that grow wild in Cambridge- fhire are to be found in this county.

Huntingdon lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Lincoln. It is divided into four hundreds, in which are fix market towns, but no city, and feventy-nine parifhes, in which are faid to be contained only about eight thoufand two hundred and twenty houfes, and forty-nine thou- fand three hundred and twenty inhabitants. It fends but four members to parliament, two knights of the fhire for the county, and two for the towa of Huntingdon. It is remarkable, that this coun- A 3 ty

6 y^ De SCRIPT I onj/"

ty and Camb-ridgefliire are joined together vnder one civil adminiftration, there being but one high fheriiT for both, who is chofen one year oat of Cambridgeihire in general, the fecond out of the^ iile of Ely, and.the third out of this county.

We fliall enter this county by the road which leads thro' St. Neots to Huntingdon.

St. Neots, generally called St. Needs, is in the Saxon annals denominated St. Neod, fronx a rncnaftery of the fame name burnt by the Danes. It is fituated on the fouth fide of the county, up- on the river Oufe, over which is a handfome ftone bridge, feventeen miles weft of Cambridge, thirty- three eaft by fouth of Northampton, and iifty- feven north north- v/efi: of London. It is a large, well built, and populous town, with a handfome church that has a remarkable fine fteeple. Coals are brought up to the tov/n by the river Oufe, and. from thence conveyed to the neighbouring parts. Here is a charity-fchool for twenty-five poor chil- dren, opened in 171 1. The market, which is oa Saturdays, is well fupplied with all forts of pro- vifions ; and it has five fairs, which are kept on Afcenfion-Thurfday, Corpus Chrifi:i, the 13th of June, and the j 7th of December, for all forts of provifions ; and the ifl: of Auguft, for hiring fer- vants.

It is faid, that St. Neot firft placed monks in this town, but they were afterwards difperfed by the Danes ; they were, however, reftored, and the monaftery again endowed by the bounty of Leo- fric, and his wife Leofleda, upon the encourage- ment of Ethelwald, bifhop of Winchefier, and Brithnod, abbot of Ely. It was a priory of Black monks, fubordinate to Ely till after the conqueft, when thofe religious were expelled by Gilbert, earl of Clare; but about the year 1113, Rohefia, the wife of Richard, fon to the above earl Gil- bert^

HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 7

bert, gave this manor to the abbey of Bee in Nor- mandy, to whom it became a cell. It was feized^ among other alien priories, during the wars with France, but was made prioratus indigent, by king Henry the Fourth, it being then in the pa- tronage of the earl of Stafford. Its revenues were valued at the fupprellion at 256 1. i s. 3d. a year,

Hailweston, a village about two miles weft of St. Neots, is only remarkable for the two mi- neral fprings we have already mentioned, on^ good for difeafes of the fkin, and the other for ibre eyes.

Sevem miles to the northward of St. Neots Is

GoDMANCHESTER, or G ODM ANCESTER, which

is fuppofed to have been a Roman town, and the city which Antoninus, in his Itinerary, calls Duroliponte, inftead of Durofiponte, which in the Britilh tongue fignifies a bridge over the Oufe, which Godmanchefter has at this day. During the time of the Saxons, this town loft its Britiih or Roman nam.e, and obtained that of Gormoncefter, from a caflle erected here by Gor- mon the Dane, to whom this part of the country was ceded by the peace with king Alfred ; and from this appellation its prefent name is derived. As a proof of the great antiquity of this place^ many Roman coins have been dug up here, anxi alio fome fkeletons, faid to have been of a si^an- tic lize.

^Ihis town, which is only parted by a bridge from Huntingdon, is no contemptible place, and has been long noted for its hufbandry, in v/hicK it has made greater improvements, than moft of the other places in England. The inhabitants are faid to hold their lands by a tenure, which obliges them, when any king of England pafTe-s that way, to attend him with their ploughs and horfes, adorned with ruftic trophies ; and they A 4 boait.

8 A Description of

boaft that, upon fome fuch occafions, they have appeared with no lefs than nine fcore ploughs. When king James the FirftpalTed thro' this town^ on his journey from Scotland, they met him with a cavalcade of feventy new ploughs, each drawn by a team of horfes, at which the king was fa pleafed, that he incorporated them by the name of two bailiffs, twelve affiftants, and the com- monalty of the borough of Godmanchefter. A fair is held here on Eafter-Tuefday, for all forta of cattle.

Near this place, in the road from London to- Huntingdon, is a tree well known to travellersj, by the name of the Beggar's Bufli. How it obtain- ed that name 3oes not appear ; but we are told^ that king James the Firft, being on a progrefs this way with the lord chancellor Bacon, and hearing that his lordfhip had lavifhly rewarded a man, who had made him a mean prefent, told him he would foon come to Beggar's Bufli, as he himfelf fhould, if they both continued fo very bountiful 5 and it is ftill a proverb in the county, that when a perfon fquanders his fortune, he is ia the way to Beggar's Bufh,

Huntingdon, or Huntington, is feated on a fmall hill on the north fide of the river Oufe, fixteen miles weft by north of Cambridge, twenty- three fouth-weft of Ely, and fifty-feven north by iveft of London. It received its name from the Saxon Huntandune, or Hunters Down, a name it acquired from the conveniency of this diftri6t for hunting, it having been one entire foreft, till it was disforefted by king Henry the Second, king Henry the Third, and king Edward the Firft, who left no more of the foreft than his own land. King John granted to this town by charter a coroner, a recorder, a town-clerk, and two bailiffs ; but it is at prefent governed by a mayor, twelve alder-

meu

HUNTINGDONSHIRE, 9

men and burgefTes, The aflizes are always held here, and in this town is the county jail. It had once fifteen churches, which, in Camden's time, were reduced to four, and it has now only two,- with feveral meeting-houfes. It is a thorough- fare in the great north road, and is ftill a popu- lous trading town. It chiefly confifts of one long ftreet, pretty well built, and has a handfome. market-place, with a market on Saturdays, and a fair on the 25th of Alarch, for pedlars goods.

The town is faid to have fuffered by the vil- lainy of one Grey, who, according to Speed, ma- licioufly obftruded the navigation of the river Oufe to this place, which is now navigable by fmall vefTels no farther than to Bedford. Here is a good grammar fchool, and Richard Fifhbourn, a citizen of London, and a native of this place, gave the town 2000 1. to be laid out in charitable ufes. The meadows on the banks of the river near Huntingdon are remarkable for their beau- ty, and in fummer are covered with innumerable herds of cattle, and flocks of fheep. In the month of June 1754-5 a fturgeon was caught in the river Oufe near this town, which weighed a hundred and thirty pounds, and the fpawn between twen- ty and thirty pounds.

Near the bridge at Huntingdon is a mount, and the ground plot of a caftle, erected by king Ed- ward the Elder, in the year 917, and enlarged by the addition of feveral new works, by David, king of Scotland, to whom king Stephen gave the borough of Huntingdon ; but this caftle was de- molifhed by king Henry the Second, in order to put an end to the frequent quarrels that arofe from a competition for the, earldom of Huntincr- don, between the kings of Scotland, and the fa- mily of St. Liz.

A 5 . There

10 jf DescR IPTICJK tf/

There was a p^^iory of black canons at HutH" tingdon before the year 973, dedicated to St. Ma- ry, and founded in or near the parifh church of that faint; but was removed without the town by Euftace de Luvetot in the reign of king Stephen, where it continued till the difTolution, when it con- fined of a prior, eleven canons, and thirty-four fervants; and its revenues were valued at 187 L 13 s. 8d. a year. At the north end of the town %vas a houfe of Auguflin friars, founded before the nineteenth year of Edward the Firfl. An hof- pital of St. John in this town is faid to have been^ founded by David, earl of Huntingdon, in the" reign of Henry the Second, and was valued at the fuppreffion atgl. 4 s. a year. Here was alfo an- ancient hofpital dedicated to St. Margaret, for a mafter and brethren, and feveral leprous and in- fiim perfons, to which Malcolm,- king of Scot- lantl, who died in 1165, was a great benefador,. if not its foimder. This, king Henry the Sixtir annexed to Trinity-hall in Cambridge, which- ■was confirmed by king Edward the Fourth, in the- £rll: year of his reign.-

Oliver Cromwell, one of the moft extraordina- ry perfonages, that ever appeared in this, or hr any other nation, was born at Huntingdon, April; the 25th, 159Q, of a very good family ; thougli- he himfelf, being the fon of a fecond brother, in- herited but a fmall fortune from his father. In- the courfe of his education, he was fent to the univerfity of Cambridge; but his genius was found' little fuited to the calm and elegant occupations of learning ; and he made fmail proficiency in his fludies. He even threw himfelf into a very diflb- lute and diforderly courfe of life ; and confumed, in gaming, drinking, and debauchery, the more early years of his youth, and by this means diiTipatcd part of his patrimouy. Suddenly the fpirit of re- formation

H U NT INGDONSHIRE. n formation felzed him : he married, aflumed a grave and compofed behaviour, entered into all the zeal and rigour of the diffenters, and ofiered to reftore to every one whatever fums he had formerly gained by gaming. The fame vehemence of temper,, which had tranfported him into the extremes of pleafure, now diftinguifned his religious habits. His houfe was the refort of all the zealous clergy of the party ; and his hofpitaiity, as well as his liberalities to the filenced and deprived miniflers, expofed him to very confiderable charges, fho' he had acquired a tolerable fortune by a maternal uncle, he found his affairs *fo injured by his ex- pences, that he was obliged to take a farm at St, Ives, and apply himfelf, for fome years, to agri- culture as a profeiTion. But this expedient ferved rather to involve him in farther debts and difficul- ties. In a word, his circumftances were become fo very low, that he had formed a fcheme for go- ing over to New England j and it was only in compliance with an order of council, that he was at length perfuaded to lay afide his defiga. In th^ long parliament, he was chofen one of the repre-' ientatives for the town of Cambridge; and, upon the breaking out of the civil war, he raifed a troop of horfe for the parliament's fervice. This troop he foon after augmented to a regiment ; and foon inftituted that difcipline, and infpired that fpirit, which rendered the parliamentary armies, in the end, vi6lorious. He is faid, indeed, to have run away at the battle of Edge-hill ; the firft a6lion in which he was engaged ; but this, if true, may, with equal juftice, be affirmed of fome of the greateft generals that ever lived. He was certainly a man of diftingui filed courage and conduct, and had a capital fhare in the battle of Newbury, of Marilon-moor, of Nafeby, and ia almort ail the great a<ftions that happened during

tiie

12 A De-scription dj

the courfe of thofe civil commotions. Nor wer^ his dexterity and addrefs inferior to his other emi- nent qualities. He got himfelf excepted in the Self-denying Ordinance ; by which the members of both houfes were deprived of their military com- miffions : and thus became, in reality, the firfly though in appearance only the fecond, in the ar- my. Invefted with fo formidable a power, he fufFered it not to remain long unemployed. He eflablifhed a council of officers, by the name of Agitators, as a kind of counterpoife to the parlia- ment, who wanted to difband part of the forces. He caufed the king to be felzed at Holmby ; and treated him, at firft, with a good deal of refpedt : but upon his refufmg to agree to the propofitions made him in the Ifle of Wight, he procured the vote of Non-addreJJes, by which his majefty was HI titt€t dethroned. He v.'as one of the high court of juftice, who tried the king ; voted for his condemnation, and afterwards figned the warrant for his execution. In 1649 he went over to Ireland, and in lefs then a twelvemonth, fubdued almoft that whole kingdom. Upon his return to Eng- land, he was appointed commander in chief of the army in the room of lord Fairfax 5 and marching into Scotland, with a body of 1600c men, he ob- tained, on the 3d of September, 1650, a com- plete victory over the Scots at Dunbar. On the very fame day of the enfuing year, he defeated king Charles the Second at Worcefter, and return- ing to London, which he entered in triumph, he diflblved the parliament, and foon after affembled another, v/hich being chiefly compofed of fifth monarchy men, and other enthufialts who were unqualified for the work of iegiflation. They, therefore, refigned their power into the hands of Cromwell, who, in 1653, allumed the prote6lor- Ihip i and his title was acknowledged not only by

the

HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 15

the army, and a great part of the nation, but likewife by moft of the fovereign flates of Eu- rope. Being thus placed at the head of the go- vernment, he exercifed his authority with great fpirit and vigour. He caufed the brother of the Portuguefe ambaflador, who had killed a man, to be feized, tried, and executed. He triumphantly finilhed the war with the Dutch, which had been begun by the commonwealth. He made war up- on Spain, and took from her Jamaica and Dun- kirk; and being excellently ferved by Blake, Dean, Monk, Montague, and other gallani: offi- cers, he carried the fame of the Englilh valour to as high a pitch, as ever it had attained in any ' former period. But however fuccefsful in his fo- reign expeditions, he was extremely unhappy in his domeftic adminiftration. His perfon, he knew, was hated, and his government detefted by almoft every party in the kingdom. The Royal- jfts, the Republicans, the Prefbyterians, theMil- linarians, all concurred in wifhingthe downfall of his power. A fenfe of this dangerous and difa- greeable fituation, joined to the prefilire of fome more private calamities, at length produced fuch an effect upon his fpirits, that he was feized with a fever, which, notwithftanding the enthufiaftic predictions of himfelf and of his chaplains, who foretold his recovery, put a period to his life on the 3d of September, 1658. His body was interred with regal pomp in Weftminfter- abbey ; but, af- ter the reftoration, it was taken, and buried un- der the gallows at Tyburn. With regard to his character, cardinal Mazarine was wont to call him a fortunate madman : father Orleans fliles him a judicious villain ; lord Clarendon, a brave ivicked man: Gregorio Leli fays, he was a ty- rant without vices, and a prince without virtues: and bifnop Burnet obferves, thathis life and his arts

were

14 yf Description of

were exhaufted together, and that if he had Vivc^

longer, he would fcarce have been able topreferve

his power. His mother was of the name of Stuart,

and remotely allied, as Tome fuppofe, to the royai

family.

HiNCHiNGBRooK, a village about a mile weft of Huntingdon, is remarkable for a priory found- ed and endowed by William the Conqueror, aft«- he had fupprelTed the monaftery of Eltefley in Cambridgefhire ; and removed the nuns to this place. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and v/as valued at the fuppreiTion at about i81. a year. Part of the old ftru£lure is ftill remaining, and part is turned into a fine houfe belonging to the earl of Sandwich. Not many years ago, ic was thought that one of the rooms here was the moft magniticent in England ; and hither cornet Joyce, when he had feized king Charles the Second at Holmby, brought his majefty ; where Mrs. Mon- tague, wife of colonel Montague, afterwards earl of Sandwich, treated the king, and the par- 1 lament commiluoners, with great honour and' refpecft. ^ Of this ftrudlure we have given an en- graved view.

BuGDEN, or EucKDE^J, which is fituated about five miles to the fouth-weft of Huntingdon, is fa- mous for being the feat of the bifhop of Lincoln.- This beautiful brick palace, and its manor, be- longed formerly to the abbey of Ely, which was then m the diocefe of Lincoln ; till Richard the iail abbot obtained leave of king, Henry the Firft to turn his abbey of Ely into a cathedral, and to make himfelf, by this means, firilbifhop thereof; but this not being to be done v/ithout the confent or his dioccfan, he was obliged to purchafe that, at the price of three manors, of which this was one i which in procefs of time became the palace and refidence of the bifhops of Lincoln, as it no^r

continLLcs^

VoU:pa.24.

Toiy.pcuid

HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 15

continues. Ruflel, the forty-feventh bifhop crea- ted in 1480, built great part of it, as appears by his arms on the wall j and Dr. Sanderfon, who was ci^ated bifliop in 1660, beftowed much coft in repairing and beautifying it. For the fatisfac- tion of the reader we have given a view of this palace.

Seven miles eaft of Huntingdon is St. Ives, which, according to Camden, was formerly called Slepe, but obtained its prefent name from one Ivo, a Perfian bifhop, who, about the year 6co, came to England, where he preached the gofpel, and w^as interred in this place. It is a large, hand- fome tov/n, feated on the Oufe, feventeen miles fouth-weft of Ely, and fifty-feven north of Lon- don. It has a fine ftone bridoe over the river, and in the ninth century had a mint, as appears by a Saxon coin found her^. It was a flourifnincr town not many years ago, when it JufFered greatly by fire, but it has been nnce rebuilt, and has flill a good market on Mondays, for fatted cattle,, brought from the north ; v;ith two fairs, one on Whit-iV^onday, and the other on the icth of Oc- tober, for all forts of cattle and cheefe.

About the year 1001, the relicks of St. Ivo be- ing difcovered in this town, which then belon&ej to the abbey of Ramfey, Ednoth, the abbot^ built a church here dedicated to that faint, in which he placed a prior and feme Benedi(^ine monks, fubordinate to Pvamfey.

About five miks north-eafl of St. Ives is Earith, a large village on the road from Hun- tingdon to Ely, Vv'hich has feveral good inns, and three fairsy which are held on the 4 ch of May, the 25th of July, and the j ft of November, for all forts of cattle.

Ramsey, called by the Saxons Ramefige, 13 ^tuatcd ten miles north oi Huntingdon, and fix-

ty.

l6 A Description of

ty-feven from London. It is every where en-- compafTed with fens, except on the weft fide, where it joins the main land by a caufey two miles long, inclofed with alders, bull-rufhes, and reeds, which, in the fpring, make a beautiful ap- pearance, to which the gardens, corn-fields, and rich paftures adjoining are no fmall addition. Be- fore it was inhabited, it was covered with trees, and particularly afh ; but fmce their being cut down, the foil has been found to be extremely fruitful. It was moft remarkable for its Benedic- tine abbey, founded in the-year 969, by Ailwin, earl of the Eaft-Angles, which was confecrated by St. Dunftan, archbifhop of Canterbury, and by Ofwald, archbifliop of York, This ftrudure was feated among the fens and marflies, on a place abounding with alder-trees, and others that delight in wet grounds. It had a great many benefactors,, infomuch that fome tell us, it vv^as by far the richeft abbey in England. It was dignified with a mitred^ abbot, who fat in the Houfe of Lords, and was valued at the difTolution at 1716L 12 s. 4 d. by Dugdale, and at 1983 1. 15 s, 3 d. by Speed, Some of the walls of this ftrudure, with a part of the gate-houfe, are ftill {landing, and are fuf- iicient to ihew, that it has been a magnificent; ftru6tui:e ; and of thefe we have given an accurate- view. The tomb of Ailwin, adorned with his ftatue, is flill to be feen, and is thought to be the mofl ancient piece of Englifh fculpture now ex- tanti He is reprefented holding two keys and a. ragged ftaif in his. band, as the enfign-s of his of- fice. The infcription is as follows, Hic requi-

ESCIT AILWINVS INCLITI REGJS EADG-ARI COG- NATVS, TOTIUS ANGLIAE ALDERM ANNVS, ET HVIVS SACRI COENOBII MIRACULOSVS FVNDA-

TOR. After the difTolution, the town went ta decay, infomuch that the market was entirely

for^

Vo/.Tpa.iS.

HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 17

forfaken; but ithas fince been revived, the town lying very convenient for the Tale of fat and lean cattle, which are brought thither fince the drain- ing of the fens J and as for water-fowl, they are no where in greater plenty. It has a charity- fchool for girls. The market is on Wednefday, and there is one fair, on July 22, for fmall pedlars ware.

Between Ramfey and Wittlefey-meer is a ditch, fometimes called Sw^erdes Delf, and fometimes Knouts delf, but at prefent it goes by the name of Steeds Dike. It parts this county from Cambridgefhire, and is faid to have been occafion- cd by the following circumftance : as king Ca- nute's family were pafling over Wittlefey-meer, in their way from Peterborough to Ramfey, their veflel was caft av/ay in one of the commotions that frequently happen in thefe meers, and feveral lives were loft; upon v/hich the king, to prevent the like difafters for the future, ordered his army to mark out a ditch with their fwords and fkeins, and afterwards employed labourers to dig, clean, and perfect this undertaking. This circumftance cccafioned its being called Swerdes Delf, or Swords Ditch.

Saltry, or Sawtry, is the name of feveral villages that lie to the north-v/eftward of Hun- tingdon. One of thefe is called Saltry Ab- bey, from an abbey of Ciftercian monks, found- ed in the year 1148 by Simon de St. Liz, fecond earl of Huntingdon. It had feveral benefaftors, amon^ which were fomeof the kino;s of Scotland, At the diflblution it had an abbot, twelve monks, and twenty-two fervants ; and its revenue was valued at 141 1. a year by Dugdale ; but by Speed, at 199 1.

About fixteen miles north -weft of Huntingdon is Yaxley, which is feated near the fens, in the

road

i8 A Description af

road from Stilton to Peterborough. The hou{e# are pretty well built, and the church has a neat and lofty fpire. Here is a fmall market on Tuef- days, and a fair on Afcenfion-Thurfday, for horfes •and ^z^^.

DoRNFORD, a village three miles weft by foutli of Peterborough, is taken by feveral authors to be a Roman ftation, and Dr. Stukeley would have it to be Durobrives, to which Horfley afTents, there being a place called Carter, dire<5^iy oppofite to it, on the north fide the river. Nen in Northampton- fhire. Dr. Stukeley fays, Dornford retains fomewhat of the old name, where the road crolTed the river over abridge; and at Chefterton near it, there is a held called Caftle-field. The Roman road ftill retains its high ridge ; and it is obferva- ble, that at all places, where the country was- fenny, great precaution and ftrength were employ- ed. The Ermine-ftreet, beyond the river, runs for fome fpace along the fide of it, upon the mea- dow, and then turns up with an angle, and pro- ceeds full north. Cafter was above half a mile from it upon the hill ; and there is a piece of the foundation of the wall, of the Roman Gaftrum, in the ftreet to the north-weft corner of the church. It is eafily know by the vaft ftrength of the mortar ; this Caftrum then went round the church-yard, and took in the whole top of the hill, facing the fouth. Underneath it lay the city, for below the church-yard, the ground is full of foundations and mofaic pavements. There have been a great number of coins found here, which are called Dormen pence, and there are other antiquities dug up every day. Part of the church is an ancient fabrick, but new modelled, and the fteeple ftands in the middle of the church ; the tower is a fine piece of ancient architesSlure, with femicircular arches j but the fpire feenr*^ to

HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 19.

be of later date» The fquare well by the churcb porch is taken to be Roman ; and though it ftands on a hill the water is very high. Some think, that the Roman city took in both banks of the river Nen, which feems very probable, be- caufehiftory takes notice of a place called Dur- man-cefter, by the river Nen, where Kinneburga. founded a fmall nunnery,

At CONNINGTON, or CuNNINGTON, a Village foiuh of Yaxley, are the remains of an ancient caiVie, which was gfven by king Canute to Tur- kill, a Danifh lord, v.'ho called in Sueno, king of Denmark, to plunder the nation. In digging a pool here fome years ago, there was found the f^eleton of a nlTi near twenty feet long, lying fix feet below the furface of the ground, and as much above the level of the fens.

Eight miles weft of Huntingdon isLEiGHTON", which gives name to the hundred in which it flands, and was once a confiderable town, but is now only a village, and has two fairs j one of them held on the 12th of May, and the other on the 5th of Oclober, for all forts of cattle.

Stonely, is a fmall village five miles fouth-wed of Huntingdon, and has been famous for its priory of canons of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, founded by William Mande- ville, earl of Effex^ about the year 1180. It contained at the diflblution feven canons, who had a revenue of 46 1. 5 s. a year.

Eight miles fouth-weft of Huntingdon is KiMBOLTON, the Kinnibantum of the Romans, from which its modern name is fuppofed to be de- rived. This town is remarkable for its caftle, which is efteemed a great ornament to the weft part of the county. We are no where informed when it was built; but it was anciently very ftrong, and had a double ditch. Sir Richard

Wingfield^

20 A Description, &c.

Wingfield erciSted new lodgings and galleries on the old foundations ; it was afterwards beautified at a great expence by Henry Montague^ earl of Alanchefter, and was in a manner rebuilt by his great grandfon, Charles duke of Manchefter. 'i^he town has a market on Fridays, and a fiiir on the nth of December, for a few cattle and hogs.

About four miles north by eaft of Kimbolton is Spaldwick, or Spaldick, a village that was given to the church of Lincoln by Henry the Firft, as a reparation for taking the bifhopric of Ely out of the diocefe of Lincoln ; but it is now the manor of the duke of Manchefter. It has two fairs, held on the Wednefday before VVhi.t-Sunday, and on the 28th of November, for all forts of cattle.

Among the eminent men which Huntingdon- {hire has produced, was,

Sir Robert Cotton, a moft eminent antiquarian, who was born at Denton in this county, on the 22d of January 1570. He had his education ia Trinity college in Cambridge, where he took the degree of bachelor of arts. From thence he removed to his father's feat in the countrv ; and afterwards to London, where he became a mem- ber of a fociety of Antiquarians. Upon the ac- cefTion of king James the Firft to the crown of Ena;land, he was created a knig-ht. It was he that fuggefted to that monarch the expedient of raifmg money, by inftituting a new order of knights, called Knights Baronets. He compofed a great number of trades, chiefly relating to the hittory and conftitution of England ; and made a^ moft excellent collection of antiquities, known by the name of the Cottonian Library, now incorpo- rated into the Britijh Mufewn. He died May 6, 163I3 in the fixty-firft year of his age.

KEN T»

[ 21 ]

KENT.

jr^^^, HIS Is a maritime county, and has ^ ry. ^ made very little change in its ancient t^ ^^ name, it being called Gentium, or )(L^%jd '^ccvTiov.y by Caefar, Strabo, Diodorus, Siculus, Ptolemy, and other Roman and Greek authors ; by the Saxons it was called Gant-Guar- Lantd, or the country of the inhabitants of Kent; but whence the name was originally derived, has been a fubje6t of much fpeculation : Mr. Lambard is of opinion, that the name of Kent is derived from the Britifh word Cainc, which fignifies a green leaf, and was applied to this county from its being anciently fhaded with woods : but Mr. Camden fuppofes, that it received its name from its figure and fituation, it being a large point or an- gle, projeellng into the fea. To confirm this opi- nion it has been obferved, that fuch a point in Scotland is called Cantir ; the inhabitants of another point in North Britain, are by Ptolemy called Cantae ; and the Cangani were pofTefTed of fuch another angle in Wales.

Kent, lying in the fouth-eafl part of England, is bounded on the north by the river Thames, and the German fea ; by the fame fea on the eaft and fouth-eaft ; and by SuiTex and Surry on the fouth- weft and weft ; extending in length fifty-fix miles from eaft to weft, thirty-fix from north to fouth, and a hundred and fixty-fix in circumference.

This county, in the time of the Britons, was go- verned, according to Caefar, by four petty kings ;

who,

S2 A Description *f

v/ho, ionxz Imagine, were only four of the prhlci* pal inhabitants appointed to defend them againil their enemies. Caefar being in Gaul, obtained fome knowledge of this ifland, and twice invaded it with difFei-ent fuccefs ; but at length the Ro- mans, not only became mafters of Kent, but of all England, when this county was put under the jurifdi6tion of the governor of Britannia Prima. At length, the Romans being obliged to leave the ifland, the Britons elected feveral princes, and at 3 aft chofe Vortigern their chief, in order to put a {top to the ravages of the-Pi6ts and Scots, and he, by the confent of the people, called in the Saxons to their affiftance. They landed under the con- duct of their two leaders Hengift and Horfa, and with them were the Angles and Jutes. Thefe joining with king Vortigern, had no fooner con- quered his enemies, than Hengift obtained the government of Kent. Some time after South- Britain was divided into {^v^n kingdoms, called the Heptarchy, the firft of which was this of ICent, which had fuccellively feventeen kings, the )aft of whom was Baldred, who being conquered by Egbert, Kent, after having been a feparatc kingdom three hundred and feventy-two years, became fubjed to the Saxon and Danifli kings of England, till the Norman conqueft.

William the Conqueror having fought the dc- cifive battle at Haftings in SufTex, was marching towards London, when he was met by a large bo- dy of the men of Kent, each with a bough or limb of a tree in his hand. This army, which had the appearance of a moving wood, boJdly marched up to him, and demanded the prefervation of their -liberties, and let the conqueror know, that they were refolved rather to die, than to part with their 3aws, or to live in bondage ; but if he would grant their ecuitable demands, they were ready to fub-

K E N T, ij

iwh to his government. William, flruck with the reafonablencrs of this addreis, as well as with the boldnefs and intrepidity of the people, wifely granted their demands, and fufFered them to re- tain their ancient cufloms. Thefe privileges they now enjoy under the name of Gavelkind, by vir- tue of which, every man poflelled of lands in this county, is in a manner a freeholder, not being bound by copyhold, cuftomary tenure, or tenant right, as in other parts of England. The male heirs, and in default of fuch, the female, fhare all the lands alike ; and the lands of a brother, if he have no legal iflue, are fhared by the furviving brethren. An heir may enter upon his eftate at fifteen years of age, and difpofe of it as he pleafes ; and laftly, the heirs enjoy their inheri- tance, though the anceftor has been convi6led of theft or murder, which has given occafion to the Kentifh proverb, " The father to the bough, and the fon to the plough -/' but this privilege does not extend to treafon, piracy, outlawry, and abjuring the realm.

The conqueror having thus obtained pof- feilion of Kent, provided for its fecurity, by ap- pointing a conftable of Dover caflle, and confti- tuting him governor of five ports, with the ftile and title of warden of the cinque-ports, which are Haftings, Dover, Hithe, Rumney and Sand- wich, to which Winchelfey and Rye are annexed as principals, and fome other fmall towns as mem- bers, all of which enjoy many confiderable im- inunities.

The principal rivers of this county, befides the Thames, are the Medway, the Stour, and the Darent. The river Medway rifes in the Weald of SufTex, and entering this county, flows north- caft by Tunbridge to Maidllone j thence running »orth-weft to Ibc city of Kocheitgr, direds its

courlJs

24 ^Description of

courfe north-eaft, dividing into two flreams, one ot* which runs north into the mouth of the Thames, and is called the Weft Swale ; and the other runs eaft, and difcharging itfelf alfo inta the mouth of the Thames, is called the Eaft Swale ; the country included between thefe two arms of the river is rendered an ifland, and call- ed the Ifle of Sheppey.

The Stour confifts of two ftreams, diftingulfti- ed by the names of the Greater and Smaller Stour : both rife in the fouthern and woody parts of this county, called the Weald of Kent, and diredl their courfe north-eaft ; the Greater Stour thro' the city of Canterbury, and the Smaller Stour through Elham ; and falling into one channel, call- ed the Wantfume, are again divided into two other ftreams ; one of which flows north-weft, and the other fouth-eaft, cutting off" the north-eaft angle of the county, and thus forming the Ifle of Tha- net, falls into the German fea.

The Darent, or Darwent, rifes near Weftram, and running north, difcharges itfelf into the river Thames near Dartford.

With refpedt to the air and foil of this county, a great part of it lying upon the fea, the air is thick, warm and foggy, tho' it is often purified by the fouth and fouth-weft winds ; and thefliore being, in general, cleaner than that of Eftex, the marftiy parts of this county are more healthy, and do not produce agues in the fame degree as the hundreds of Eftex. As to the higher parts of Kent, they enjoy a very healthy air.

This county affords fome mines of iron, and that part of it which borders upon the Thames abounds with chalk hills, from whence, not only the city of London and the adjacent parts, but even Holland and Flanders, are fupplied with chalk for making lime j. and from'theic hills the

refuf^x

KENT. as

teFufe of this chalk is carried in ligkters and hoys to the coafts of Eflex, SufFolk, and Nor- folk, where it is fold to the farmers as manure for their lands. The foil is generally rich and fit for the plough, pafture, or meadow ; and the land abounds with plantation of hops, corn fields, orchards of cherries, apples, and other fruit. The fouth and weft parts of Kent, efpeciaily that call- ed the Weald, are covered with woods of oak, beach, and chefnut- trees, which aiFord timber for ftiipping and other ufes : here are likewife many woods of birch, from whence the broom-makers of Southwark are abundantly fupplied. Several parts afford a romantic variety of landfcapes, particu- larly about Thong and Shorn, v/here, fays an in- genious author, the hills are wild, fteep, and al- moft covered with wood^ and rife into bold vari- ations, between the breaks of which vaft prof- pe6ts of the valley beneath, and the Thames winding through it, are every now and then feen 5 and from the tops of fome of them moft prodigi- ous profpec-is of the whole country at large. Be- tween Dartford and Shooter's-hill the hufbandry is very good^ They proceed thus, i. peafe ; a. turnips j 3. barley, or oats, generally the former; 4. wheat; but fometimes clover is fowa with the barley, and then the wheat fucceeds that. They reckon fix or feven quarters of wheat and fpring-corn, which is very confiderable, a good common crop. This plainly proves the land to be very good, otherwife fuch a quantity of wheat could never be got after barley ; but the in- trodu6tion of clover muft be a better courfe ; for that grafs mowed twice would abate any ranknefs in the ground, which threatened a laid crop of wheat. There is much fainfoin fown, many fields of which produce three tons of hay per acre. This county alfo produces woad and madder for Vol. Vp B dyerso

26 ^/Description^

dyers. On the cliffs, between Dover and Folk- ftone, is found plenty of famphire, and here in particular fainfoin grows in great abundance. Cattle of all forts are reckoned larger here than in the neighbouring counties ; and the Weald of Kent is remarkable for the extraordinary fize of its bullocks : here are warrens of grey rabbits, and feveral parks of fallow deer. In fhort this county abounding in rivers, and a great part be- ing waflied by the fea, is fupplied with a variety of excellent fifli, and is particularly famous for large oyfters.

It will be proper here to take notice of the Ifle of Thanet, where the manner of agriculture, be- ing different from that in other parts of the king- dom, deferves particular notice. The common red wheat is fown almoft all over the ifland, for they cultivate little of the bearded Kentifh wheat. The farmers begin to plow about the beginning of No- vember ; and if the wheat be rank, and the feafon dry in March, fome turn in their fheep, who eat it off, by which means the wheat comes again thicker, the ground is fettled, and the root faf- tened by the treading of the fheep. The produce in harveft is feldom lefs than three quarters on an acre, and frequently four or five. On the light lands they fow about three bufhels and a half, and on the richer lands, four buftiels on an acre.

Of the common fort of barley they fow on the lighter lands four bufhels on an acre, and on the richer fomething more. For this purpofe the land is laid as fine as poflible, and the farmers have frequently five or fix quarters of grain, and fome- times feven, on an acre.

The planting of beans is a modern improve- ment. They plow the land as foon as the wheat

feafon

KENT, S7

feafon is ended, that is, about the beginning of De- cember. The land thus plowed lies till about the beginning of March, when they furrow their land with a plough, and into the furrows, women hired for that purpofe, drop the beans ; but as they cannot always get a fufHcient number of women, they frequently make ufe of a box, out of which they are dropped by the feedfman. The lands be- ing thus furrowed, give the farmer an opportu- nity of keeping them clear of weeds, by people going between the rows of beans to pull up the weeds which grow among them, while the fpaces between the furrows are houghed with a large bough, or cleared of weeds by what they call a Shim or brake-plough. This a piece of iron at the bottom of two cheeks, with holes in them, which are put through a frame of timber drawn with ona horfe, and let up or down as there is occafion, with iron pins. By this management the fields, where thefe beans are planted, lie very neat, and clear of weeds. In the choice of their feed, the farmers have not only regard to its being free from damage, by being mixed with wild oats, cockle, &c. but to the foil on which it has grown, which they defire may be as different as poffible from that on which it is to be fown. Thus they choofe to have the feed, which they fow on the lio-ht !and, that which grev/ either on a gravel or deep clay land. They likewife wet their feed with fait water, which they fetch from the fea, and mix lime amongft it to prev^ent the fmut, 5cc.

In plowing their land, the farmers here, in common with others in Eaft Kent, ufe a plouo;h with wheels, on the fide of which is a piece ^of timber, which they call a Wreeft, made to take off and on, as it muft always be on the fide next the plowed land. Accordin2;Iy, at every end of B 2 ^ the

2s8 jf Description-^/*

the furrow, the horfes ftand ftill for the plough- man to change the place of this piece of timber.

In harvcft they bind all their corn whatfoever. The wheat they reap very high, to leave as much ftraw as poiTible in the fields, in order to fave barn room. The fame perfon who reaps makes the bands, which he cuts lower than the reft of the corn, and binds the (heaves. The barley and oats which they intend for bands, they pull up by the roots, almoft as foon as they begin to change, and let them lie upon the ground, till the barley, &c. is ready to bind, when they bind them into {heaves, and carry them into the barn, where they are made into bands ; which being tied up into bundles, are carried back again into the fields, and are by a perfon employed on pur- pofe diftributed to thofe who bind the barley and oats. After the whole field is cleared of the fheaves, what is fcattered in the binding, &c. is collected together by a large rake, with wooden or iron teeth, drawn by a horfe, and likewife bound into fheaves ; thefe rakings are, by cuftorn, not tithable, unlefs it can be proved that they are fraudulently left.

The wheat ftubble that is left, is either mown for the ufe of the maltmen, to dry their malt, or elfe raked off the field by a horfe rake, carried off the ground, and laid on heaps to rot, to rnak^ manure.

The beans they commonly pull up by the roots, and letting them lie in rows till they are dry, bind them with bands made of wheat ftrav/, the ears of which are threfiied firft. But when they cut or reap them, they do it in the following manner : in their left hand they have an iron hook, with which they hold the beans, and in their right hand an inftrument c^iljsd a Twibillj with which they cut them.

The

KENT. 29

The land in the marfties newly broken up, be- ing reckoned too rich to bear wheat, &c. theyfow it with canary feed, for eight or ten years after its being firft plowed. This land is thus prepared : firft\, it is fown a year or two with peas to kill the greenfword, and prepare the mould. After the crop of peas is ofF, it is plowed, and the ca- nary feed fown on it, if it be a dry feafon, in the beginning of March. It ufed to be ftrewed like other feeds all over the ground, but experience has taught the farmers, that the belt way is to fow it in furrows made for that purpofe. This fome have done by pouring the feed through the fpout of a tea pot, or the like ; but others, who think this way too tedious, choofe rather to fow it by hand ; for which purpofe they make the ridges between the furrows as fharp as they can, that all the feed may fall into the furrows. By thefe means the land is eafily kept clear of weeds^ and the crop of canary is faid to be greater by a quarter and a half on an acre, more than when fown the other way. Ths common quantity of feed fown on an acre is fix gallons : this as it grows up is often weeded, and the furrows cleanf- ed ; and when the wheat is reaped and carried into the barn, the harveftof the canary feed ufual- ly comes on.

It is remarkable, that the common people here are equally fkilled in holding the helm and the plough : and according to the feafon of the year, catch cod, herrings, mackrel, &c. go voyages, and export merchandize ; dung the land, plow, fow, harrow, reap and carry in the corn. Whea they are boys they go to catch whitings and her- rings, and to the north feas, whither they make two voyages a year, and come home from the latter foon enough for the men to reap the corn, «nd have a winter's threfhing, which laft they B 3 • have

20 J "Description df

have done time enough to go to fea in the fpring, Befides this, there are two feafons for the home fifhery, called by the inhabitants Shot-fare, and Herring-fare. The firfl of thefe is the mackrel feafon, which is commonly about the beginning of May, when the fowing of barley is ended ; the other is the feafon for catching herrings, which begins about the end of harveli:, and ends foon enough for their fowing the wheat.

The more uncommon plants found In this coun- ty are,

Clufius's fea- fir, Jbies marina Belgica.

B afta rd g romel , Jnchufa degener facie 7iiiln foils ^

Red alkanet, Anchufa alclbiadlon.

Yellow alkanet, Anchufa lutea.

Small alkanet, Anchufa minor*

Sea- pimpernel, AnthylHs lentifoUa^ftvs aklnecfU-^ {lata marina*

Sea-orach, Artlplex marina.

White beets. Beta alba*

Englifli fea-colworts, Brafica marina Angllca,

Englifh coralline, Coralllna Angina*

Smalleft coralline, Corallina minima*

Thorny fampier, or fea-parfnip, Crithmum fplnofum*

Round falt-marfh cyperus, or round-rooted baftard cyperus, Cyperus rotundus littoreus Inodorus A}igllct4s, C. B. In the ifles of Shepey and Thanet.

Sea- rocket, Eruca marina.

Sea-fennel, Fucus feruiaceus*

Fennel coralline, or fennel-mofs, Fucm rnari- 71US temiifolius .

Sea-girdle and hatigers, Fucus phafganoides i^ folyfchldes*

Sea ragged ftafF, Fucus fponglofus nodofus*

Black fit-wort, Glaux €xigua marltlma*

Common

KENT. 31

Common fea-purilaine, Halimus vulgaris^ five portula marina.

Sea rag- weed, 'Jacohaea marina.

Garden- rpurge, Lathyris^ feu Cataputia minor.

Rock lavender, Limonium parvum, on the cliffs near Margate and Ramfgate,

Purple-flowered gromel, Lithofper?7ium anchufai facie.

Englifti fea-campion, Lychnis marina Anglica.

White coralline or fea-mofs, Mufcus marinusy five corallina alba. .

White fea-mofs, Mufcus marinus albidus*

Coral, or mountain mofs, Mufcus corallinus^fwi corallina montana.

Branched fea-mofs, Mufcus marinus Clufius*

Broad-leafed fea-mofs, Mufcus marinus.

Yellow-horned pappy, Papaver cornutum fiore. luteo.

Petty-fpurge, Pcplus, five efula rotunda.

Dwarf water-plantane, Flantago aquatica hu- milis.

Plantane with fpoky tufts, or befom plantan?. Plant ago paniculisfparfis.

Sea-bindweed, Scldanella marina.

Englilh matweed, or helm, Spartum J?iglicantan»

Sea orach with the longeft leaf, Ariiplex marina folio longijfuno^ found by R.amfgate pier.

The lead hares ear, Bupleurum minimu2n an- gufiijftmo foUot five auricula leporis minima -, found near Sandwich ferry.

Broad-leafed indented fea-wreck, Fucus^ five, alga latifolia ?najor deniata.

Sea holly, or eringo, Eryngium marinu7n.

In the ifle of Thanet fennel grows naturally in

the hedges, and under the chalk walls, and the

foil agrees particularly with rofemary, of which

the rev. Mr. Lewis informs us, he had two hedges

B 4 ia

3^ -^Description^

in the year 1723, that were feventeen yards long^' and five feet high.

This county is divided into five lathes, which are fubdivided into fourteen bailiwicks, and thefe again into fixty-eight hundreds. A lathe is a di- vifion peculiar to this county and SufTex, it con- filling of two or more bailiwicks, as a bailiwick does of two or more hundreds. It contains two cities, twenty-nine market towns, and four hundred and eight parifhes. It lies in the province of Can- terbury, and partly in that diocefe, and partly in the diocefe of Rochefter. It fends eighteen mem- bers to parliament, two knights of the (hire for the county, two members each for the cities of. Canterbury and Rochefter, two for the borough of Maidftone, two for that of Queenborough, and two for each of the four cinque ports in this county, Dover, Sandwich, Hithe and Rumney.

The name of Cinque Ports is derived from quinque portus, five havens oppofite to France, thus called by way of eminence, on account of their fuperior importance. Our kings have thought them worthy a peculiar regard j and ia. cr-der to fecure them againft invafions, have grant- ed them a particular form of government. They are under a keeper, who has the title of lord war- den of the cinque ports (an officer firft appointed by William the Conqueror) who has the authori- ty of an admiral among them, and iflues out writs in his own name. The privileges anciently annexed to the cinque ports, and their depen- dants, were firft an exemption from all taxes and. tolls. Secondly, a power to oblige all that liv- ed in their jurifdidion to plead in their courts, and to punifh offenders in their own bounds, and alfo murderers and fugitives from juftice. Third- ly, a power to punifh foreigners as well as natives? for theft 5 to have a pillpry and tumbrel or cuck*

KENT. 33

ing-ftool. Fourthly, a power to raife mounds or banks in any man's land againft breaches of the fea. Fifthly, to appropriate to their own ufe all loft goods, and wandering cattle, if not claimed withtn-a^year and a day. Sixthly, to have com- mons, and to be at liberty to cut down the trees growing upon them. Seventhly, to convert to their own ufe fuch goods as they found floating on the fea ; thofe thrown out of Ihips in a ftorm, and thofe driven afhore when no wreck or fhip was to be feen. Eighthly, to be a guild or fra- ternity, and to be allowed the franchlfes of court- leet and court-baron. Ninthly, a power to af- fcmble, and keep a portmote or parliament for the cinque-ports ; to punifh all infringers of their privileges, make by-lav/s, and hear all appeals from the inferior courts. Tenthly, their barons to have the privilege of fupporting the canopy over the king's head at his coronation;.

In return for thefe privileges, the cinque-ports were required to fit out fifty-feven (hips, each manned with twenty- one men and a boy, with v/hich they were to attend the king's fervice for fifteen days at their own expence ; and if the ftate of affairs required their afliftance any longer, they were to be paid by the crown. The number ot fhips required from each of the four ports in this' county, was as follow, Dover, and its members, twenty-one i Sandwich, with its members, five j Hithe five,, and Runiney, with its members^ five more.

We (hall begin this county with the road which leads from London to Sandwich,

At the diftance of five miles fouth by eafl: of the city of London is Deptford, which was ancient* }y called Weft Greenwich, and is faid to have received its prefent name from its having a deep ford over the little river Ravenfborn, neat its in- B 5 Eux

54 ^ D E s c R I p r 1 0 f? 0/

flux into the Thames, where it has now a bricJge^ It is a large and populous town, divided into Up- per and Lower Deptford, which together contain two churches, feveral meeting-houfes, and about one thoufand nine hundred dwelling houfes, but 3S moft remarkable for its noble dock, where the royal navy was formerly built and repaired, till it was found more convenient to build the larger ihips at Woolwich and other places, where the depth of water is much greater : yet, notwith- jftanding this, the yard is enlarged to above dou- ble its former dimenlions,"and a prodigious num- ber of hands are conftantly employed in repairing and encreafmg the royal navy. It has a wet dock of two acres for fhips, befides another of an acre and a half, with vaft quantities of timber and other ftores ; and extenfive buildings, as ftore- houfes of every kind, for the ufe of the place. Among thefe ftore-houfes was a vi6lualling-office,. built in 1745, which was accidentally burnt down- .in January 1749, with a great quantity of provi- fions and other ftores. There are alfo dwelling- houfes for thofe officers who are obliged to live •upon the fpot, in order to fuperintend the works* Here Peter the Great, Czar of Mufcovy, work- ed for fome time, in order to complete his Ikili ia^ the pra£iical part of naval architecSture.

In this town is a fociety incorporated by the° name of the Trinity-houfe, in the reign of king JFlenry the Eighth, for the regulation of feamen, and the convenience of (hips and mariners on our coaft. The poffeflions and privileges of this fo^ ciety were confirmed by grants from queen Eliza- beth, king Charles the Second, and James the Second. It is governed by a mafter, four wardens^, eight affiftants, and eighteen elder brethren ; but the inferior members of the fraternity, termed younger brethren, are of an Uoilimited number, as every

mailer

K E N T. ^ 35

mafter or mate, expert in navigation, may be ad- mitted among them. The mafter, warden, af- fiftants, and elder brethren, are by charter inveft- ed with the following powers ; that of examining the mathematical children of Chrift's hofpital, London. The examination of the mafters of his majefty's fhips. The appointing pilots to con- du6l ihips in and out of the river Thames ; the fettling the feveral rates of pilotage, and ereding light-houfes, and other fea-marks, upon the coafts of the kingdom. The granting licenfes to poor feamen, not free of the city, to row on the river Thames. The punifhing feamen in the mer- chants fervice for mutiny and defertion. The hearing and determining the complaints of of- ficers and feamen in the merchants fervice j but fubjecl to an appeal to the lords of the Admiralty, or the judge of the admiralty court. To this company belongs the ballaft office for deepening the river, and fupplying the fhips that fail out of it; and all fhips that take in ballaft, pay them one {hilling a ton, for which it is brought to the fhips fides. By this company there are annually relieved about three thoufand poor feamen, their widows and orphans. They have at Deptford a college, commonly called Trinity-houfe of Dept- ford Strond, which contains twenty-one houfes ; the other called Trinity-hofpltal, which has thir- ty-eight houfes, and is a handfome edifice, with large gardens belonging to it.

To the north-weft of Deptford is the Red houfe, •which was a collection of warehoufes and ftore- houfes built of red bricks, whence it had its name. It was filled with hemp, flax, pitch, tar, and other commodities, which in July 1 739 were all confumed by fire.

Greenwich was anciently called Greenwic, which fignifies a green creek, wic in the Saxon

tongue

35 vfDESCRIPTlONg/

tongue fignlfying the creek of a river. It is fitv^atW ed on the Thames, a little to the eaft of Dept- ford, at the diflance of fix miles from London, It is a large, populous town, efteemed one of the pleafanteft in England, and many of its inhabi- tants are perfons of rank and fortune. Its parifh church, which is dedicated to St. Alphage, was fome years ago rebuilt as one of the fifty new- churches erected by queen Anne's bounty. Here was formerly a royal palace, which was firft ereded by Humphrey, duke of Glocefter, who, from the pleafantnefs of its fituation, called it Placentia^ It was greatly enlarged by Henry the Seventh, who added a fmall houfe to it of Mendicant friars, and finifhed a tower, which duke Humphry had^ begun on the top of the hill, from whence is a delightful profpecS: of the adjacent country; and was completed by his fon Henry the Eighth, who was greatly delighted with its fituation; and in that palace queen Mary, and queen Elizabeth, were born. The tower, on the top of the hill, was afterwards demolifhed, and a royal obfervatory eredled in its room by Charles the Second, who furnifhed it with mathematical inftruments, for aftronomical obfervations. Charles the Second alfo enlarged the park, walled it in, and planted it with trees. The palace at length became fo ruinous, that Charles the Second pulled it down,, and began to ere(ft another ; one wnng of which: he lived to fee magnificently finifhed at the ex- pence of 36,0001. This wing, with nine acres of land adjoining, king William appropriated for a royal hofpital, for aged and difabled feamen. The. other wing was begun in the reign of king Wil- liam, carried on in the reigns of queen Anne, and' king George the Firft, and finifhed in the reign ai king George the Second. Such are the noble

fy,mmetry^

KENT. f7^

fymmetry, architecture and decorations, and fucb the fine fituation and ample endowment of this fpaclous and magnificent edifice, that there is fcarce fuch a foundation and fabric in the world. But if it be confidered as merely appropriated to the ufe of humanity, and the encouragement of navigation, the humane and generous mind will at all times be ready to wifh, that a great part of what has been beftowed on coflly decorations, and expenfive ornaments, had been applied to enlarg- ing the foundation, and admitting a greater num- ber of thofe brave feamen, who have been maim- ed or grown old in the fervice of the nation. Its hall, which is very fuperb, was finely painted by the late Sir James Thornhiil. At the upper end of it are reprefented, under an alcove, the late princefs Sophia, king George the Firil, king George the Second, the late queen Caroline, the late queen of Prufiia, the late prince of Wales, his majefty's father, the duke of Cumberland, and his five royal fillers* On the cieling near the alcove are queen Anne,, and prince George of Denmark; and nearer the door king William and queen Mary, with feveral emblematical fi- gures, finely executed. On a pedeftaj, in the middle of the area, fronting a noble terrace by the Thames, is a fine ftatue of king George the Second. The chapel belonging to this hofpital is extremely elegant ; the proportion is exceeding beautiful, and forms one of the finefl: rooms in England. It is a hundred feet by fifty, and fifty feet high : the ornaments are all white and gold ; the cornice very elegant,, and the cieling of the altar truly beautiful.

Greenwich park has as much variety, in pro.- portion to its extent, as any in the kingdom ; but tshe views from the obfervatory, and the one-tree h-ill^. " are, fays the ingenious Mr. Ycung, beau-

« tifiil

jS ^Description of

•' tiful beyond imagination, particulary tliC *' former. The projection of thefe hills is {a *' bold, that you do not look down upon a gradu- *' ally falling flope or Hat inclofures, but at once " upon the tops of branching trees, which grow in " knots and clumps out of deep hollows and em- " browning dells : the cattle which feed on the *' lawns, and appear in breaks among them, feem ** moving in a region of fairy-land. A thoufand *' natural openings among the branches of the " trees, break upon little picturefque views of " the fwelling turf, which, when illumined by *' the fun, have an effc6l beyond the power of «' fancy to exhibit. This is the fore-ground of *' the iandfcape \ a little farther the eye falls on *« that noble flrudure the hofpital, in the midft *« of an amphitheatre of wood. Then the two *' reaches of the river make that beautiful ferpen- *' tine, which forms the Ifle of Dvogs, and pre- »< fents the floating millions of the Thames. To " the left appears a fine tra6l of country leading *« to the capital, which there finilhes the prof- « pea."

The firft admiflion of difabled feamen was in 1705, and there are now between two and three thoufand men, and a hundred boys, maintained in the hofpital, with fix nurfes to every hundred penfioners, who are to be feamens widows, and have a falary of 10 1. a year each ; but thofe that attend the infirmary, have two (hillings a week more. The penfioners are cloathed in blue, and are allowed {lockings, fhoes and linen ; and be- fides their commons, have one (hilling a week to fpend, and the common v/arrant officers have one {hilling and fix- pence. The feveral benefaftionsy which appear in tables hung up at the entrance of the hall, amount to 58,209 1. and in 1732, the earl of Derwentwater's forfeited eftate, amounting

KENT. 39

to near 6,000 1. a year, was given to it by parlia- ment. In 1737, a market was appointed at Greenwich, the diredion of which is in the governors of this royal hofpital, to vi^hich the profits that arife from it are appropriated. For its better fupport, every feaman, both in the royal navy, and in the merchants fervice, pays fix-pence a month, and money is granted by parliament for the fupport of the hofpital as occafion requires.

At the end of the town, fronting the Thames^ there is a handfome college for the maintenance of twenty old decayed houfekeepers, twelve of whom are to be out of Greenwich, and eight are to be prefented alternately from Snottirnam and Caftle- rifing in Norfolk j or elfefrom Bungey in Suffolk, This is called the duke of Norfolk's college, tho'' it was founded and endowed in 1613, by James Howard, the duke of Norfolk's brother, who was earl of Northampton ; and on him James the Firft beflowed the old palace. It was called at firft the Trinity hofpital, and v/as committed to the care of the mercers company in London. The penfioners, befides vi6luals and drink, are allow- ed eighteen pence a week, with a gown every year, linen once in two years, and hats once in- four years. Mr. Lambard, author of the peram- bulation of Kent, likewife built an hofpital here in the year 1560, calling it queen Elizabeth's college. It is for twenty poor people, and is faid to be the firft of this kind built by an Englifh pro- teftant. This town contains about one thoufand three hundred and fifty houfes, and there are two markets on Wednefdavs and Saturdays, which were firft appointed in the year 1737. In the reign of queen Anne, the late duke of Argyie was created duke of Greenwich.

There arealfo in this town twocharity-fchools; one built by Sir William Bcreman, Knt. for

twenty

40 !//Descriptioj7 nf

twenty boys, and endowed with 400 1. a. year, left in truft to the drapers company of London ; the other built by Mr. John Roan, who left an eftate of 95 1. a year, in truft with the vicar, churchwardens, and overfeers of this parifh, for teaching twenty-eight boys, and allowing 40 s. a year for their cloaths.

That which is now properly called the palace, is but a fmall ftrudture, and is converted into apartments for the governor of the royal hofpitaly and the ranger of Greenwich park, which is well flocked with deer.

Jonathan Goddard, a learned writer, an excel- lent chemift, and a celebrated phyfician, in the' feventeenth century, was born in this town, about the year 16 17. After taking the degree of bache- lor of arts in Magdalen-hall, Oxford, he travel- led into foreign countries ; and, upon his return, he graduated as bachelor of phyfic in Chrift's col- lege, Cambridge. In 1642, he proceeded do6lor of phyfic in the fame univerfity, and was chofen fellow of the college of phyficians in London, He afterwards a6ted as phyfician to Oliver Crom- well, by whofe intereft he was elected warden of Merton college in Oxford. Being removed, upon the reftoration, from this honourable office, he fpent the remainder of his days at his lodgings In Grefham college, where he had lately been chdfen profefTor of phyfic. He died of an apo- plexy on the 24th of March, 1674. His works are numerous, moft of them were printed in the tranfadtions of the Royal Society. The princi- pal is, A Difcoiirfe concerning Phyfic^ and the many Ahufes thereof by the Apothecaries ; and ^ Propofa! , "for making JVine from the Juice of Sugar-canes.

Near Greenwich is Blackheath, where Watt Tyler, the Kentifh rebel, muttered a hundred thoufand men, Here are held two fairs, one on

tlni

KENT. 4i

llie 12th of May, and the other on the iith of Oaober.

On Blackheath is the feat of Sir Gregory Page, which is finely fittuated, and is a noble building, with two handfome fronts, and that to the fouth adorned with an Ionic portico. The wings con- tain the offices and ftables, which are joined to the body of the houfe by a colonade. The hail is a very elegant room, fupported by handfome co- lumns, and other ornaments in a juft tafte. On the left hand you proceed from it into the dining- room, which is well proportioned : it is fitted up with rich carving and gilding, on a white ground ; the chimney-piece is of white marble, very beau- tiful, and finely polifhed. This room opens into the gallery, which is fixty feet long, twenty broad and twenty high : the cieling, cornice, and door- cafes, are exceeding elegant, and adorned with gilt carving on a white ground. In this room there are a number of fine paintings by the great mafters. This leads into the drawing-room, which is twenty-five feet by twenty, ornamented in a very rich and elegant tafte, and adorned with twelve very fine pidures, containing the hiftory; of Cupid and Pfyche, by Luca Giardino. From thence you pafs into the faloon, which is thirty- five feet by twenty-five, the chimney-piece of which is exquifitely elegant. The door-cafes and all the ornaments are very beautiful. The dreffing- room Is likewife finely ornamented, and contains a capital colle£lion of pi6tures, particularly twelve pieces by the chevalier V'anderwerfF. Thefe are ihepherds and fhepherdefles dancing, a beautiful piece ; the Roman charity, which is very elegant j Venus and Cupid, a moft beautiful piece ; Jofeph and Potiphar's wife, which is extremely fine, as is alfo king Zeleucus giving his kingdom to his fon ; Bathfheba bathing, which is exquifitely done ; the,

choice

42 ^Description of

choice of Hercules, in which Vice is reprefenfed as a mod tempting lady ; Mary Magdalen reading in a grotto, which is aftonifhingly executed ; our Saviour and" Mary Magdalen; the angels and the fhepherds, in which the light proceeds entirely from the angels ; the chevalier VanderwerfF, his wife and daughter, which are very fine. In the fame room are alfo a fine landfcape, and four beautiful pieces of fruit and flowers, the latter by VanHuyfum. You are next {hewn into the crimfon bed-chamber, which opens into the library. The rooms are hung with crimfon and green fillcs and damafks, and the door-cafes, flabs, fophas, and chair-frames, carved and gilt in a good tafte.

On Blackheath are alfo feveral handfome houfes, the feats of wealthy citizens and others ; and on the eafi: fide of it is Morden college, ere<5ted for the fupport of decayed merchants, by Sir John Morden, Bart, a Turky merchant, fome years before his death, which happened in 1708. This is a large brick bjilding with two fmall wings, ftrengthened at the corners with ftone juftic. The principal entrance in the centre is adorned with Doric columns, feftoons, and a pe- diment on the top, over which rifes a turret with' a dial. The chapel is neatly wainfcoted, and has a coftly altar-piece. There are here maintained thirty-five poor gentlemen, and the number not being limited, it is to be encreafed as the eftate will afford ; for the building will conveniently hold fifty. The treafurer is allowed 40 1. a year, and the chaplain has 60 1. per annum, he reads prayers twice a day, and preaches twice every Sunday ; thefe officers, as well as the penfioners, are obliged to fefide in the college. The pen- fioners, who wear goWns, have each 20 1. a year,- and have a common table in the hall to eat and drink at meals, and each has a convenient apart-

mentj

KENT. 43

tnenif-, with a cellar ; but no perfon can be ad- mitted as a penfioner, who cannot bring a certi- ficate to prove his being upwards of fixty years of age. This hofpital is under the dire6lion of fevea Turky merchants, to whom the treafurer is ac- countable, and when any of thefe die, the fur- viving truftees chufe others in their room.

CHARLETON,or Charlton, is a pleafant wcll built village, on the edge of Blackheath, famous for a very diforderly fair held in its neighbourhood on October i8, St. Luke's day, when the mob, who have horns on their heads, take all kinds of liberties, and the lewd and vulgar among the wo- men, give a loofe to all manner of indecency. This is termed horn-fair, and there are fold at it rams horns, and horn ware of all forts. A vulgar tradition gives the following origin of this fair ; king John, who had a palace at Eltham in this neighbourhood, being hunting near Charle- ton, was feparated from his attendants, when en- tering a cottage, he admired the beauty of the miftrefs, whom he found alone, and debauched her ; her hufband, however, fuddenly returning, caught them in the facSt, and threatening to kill them both, the king then found himfelf un- der the neceHity of difcovering himfelf, and of purchafing his fafety with gold ; befides which, he gave him all the lands from thence as far as the place now called Cuckold's point, and like- wife beftowed on him the whole hamlet, eftablifh- ing a fair as a condition of his holding his new demefne, in which horns were both to be fold and worn. A fermon is preached on the fair-day in the church, which is one of the handfomeft in the county, and was repaired by Sir Edward Newton, Bart, to whom king James the Firft granted this manor. This gentleman built his houfe at the entrance of the village j it is along Gothic ftruc^

44 -^ Description of

ture, with four turrets on the top. It has a fpa- clous court-yard in the front, behind it are large gardens, and beyond thefc a fmall park, which joins to Woolwich common. This houfe at pre- fent belongs to the earl of Egmont.

At a fmall diftance from the church, on the. edge of the hill, are two fine houfes, one of which, was in the pofleflion of the late governor Hunter, and the other was ere<5led by the late lord Rum- ney. The gardens, being on the fide of a hill, flope down towards the Thames, and in fummer render the profpe<3: very delightful.

WooLV\^iCH is feated on the river Thames, three miles eaft of Greenwich, and nine eaft by fouth of London. It is rendered confiderable by its ihip-yard, where is the oldeft dock belonging to the royal navy, and is faid to have furniflied as many men of war, as any two others in the king- dom. Here are feveral fine docks, rope-yards, and fpacious magazines ; befides the ftores of planks, mails, pitch and tar. In the warren, or park, where they make trial of great guns and mortars, there are feveral thoufand pieces of ordnance for fliips and batteries, befides a vaft. number of bombs, mortars and granadoes. The largeft fhips may fafely ride here even at low water. A company of matrofies are employed here to make up cartridges, and to charge bombs, carcalTes and granadoes, for the public fervice. The church was lately rebuilt in a handfome manner, as one of the fifty new churches. It is remarkable, that part of the parifh is on the other fide of the Thames, on the Eflex fhore, where there was- once a chapel, and is included in this county. Here is an alms-houfe for poor widows, and the town^ has a market on Fridays, but no fairs.

In 1236 the marfhes near Woolwich were overflowed by the river Thames, and many of th©

inhabi-

KENT. 45

inhabitants were drowned, as were alfo a great number of cattle ; and in the reign of James the Firft, another inundation laid many acres of meadow ground under water, which have never been recovered. In 1627, a grampus was taken at Woolwich that meafured thirty feet long, and was five feet in thicknefs.

Cr AYFORD, a town in this road, fourteen miles from London, and two miles fouth by eaft of Dartford, obtained its name from its having an- ciently a ford over the river Cray or Crouch, a little above its influx into the Thames. In the adjacent heath and fields are feveral caves, fup- pofed to have been formed by the Saxons, as places of fhelter and fecurity for their wives, children and eifedls, while they were at war with the Britons.

Dartford is a large handfome town, origi- nally called Darentford, from its fituation upon the Darent, which runs through the town, and had a ford here. It is fixteen miles diftant from London, and watered with two or three very good fprings. This town is full of inns and other public houfes, on account of its lying on the great road from London to Canterbury and Do- ver. Here is a church dedicated to the Holy Trinity,, with two church-yards, one round the church, and the other on the top of the hill, with- out the town, which is fo high, that it overlooks the tower of the church. The town has a har- bour for barges, and a good market on Saturdays for corn, with a fair on the 2d of Auguft, for horfes and bullocks.

The rebellion of Wat Tyler and Jack Straw began in this town, in the reign of Richard the Second, for which it was long in difgrace ; but it has fince given the title of vifcount to the earl of J.erfey, The iirft paper-mill in England was

ere<^ted

46 -/^Description of

ere(5led on the Darent by Sir John Spilman, ta whom Charles the Firft granted a patent, and 20ol. a year to encourage the manufadure. On this river was alfoere^led the lirft mill for flitting iron bars, to make wire. In January 1738, a powder mill was blown up here, as it had been three times before in the fpace of eight years, but the laft time no perfon was hurt, though all the fervants be- longing to the mill were bufy in their feveral em- ployments. A nunnery was founded here by Ed- ward the Third, in the year 1355 for a priorefs, and thirty-nine fifters of the Auguftine order. The priorefs and nuns, on account of its being a royal foundation, were generally elecSled out of noble families, and the abbefs had the title of lady. It was valued at the diflblution at 380 1. 9 s. a year. Here feems alfo to have been a priory of Bene- didiine monks fubordinate to Rochefler.

Gravesend is feated on the fouth bank of the river Thames, oppofite Tilbury Fort In EfTex, about fix miles eaft of Dartford ; about the fame diftance north-weft of Rochefter, and twen- ty-two from London. In the reign of Richard the Second, the French and Spaniards failing up the river, burnt and plundered the town, and car- ried off moft of the inhabitants. To enable the town to recover this lofs, the abbot of St. Mary le Grace on Tower-hill, to whom king Richard the Second had granted a manor belonging to Gravefend, obtained that the inhabitants of Gravefend and Milton, a fmall place in its neigh- bourhood, fhould have the fole privilege of carry- ing paflengers to and from London by water, at two pence a head, or four fliilling'^ the whole fare ; but it is now raifed tc nine pence a head in the tlk-boat, and one (hilling in the wherry. Coaches ply here at the landing of people from London, to carry them to Rochefter. King Henry the

Eighth

KENT. 47

Eighth ralfed a platform here and at Milton ; and thefe towns were incorporated by queen Elizabeth, by the name of the portrieve, (which has been changed to that of mayor) the jurats and inha- bitants of Gravefend and Milton. The whole town of Gravefend was burnt down in 1727, on which the parliament in the year 1731, granted 5C00 1. for rebuilding the church.

Gravefend nearly refembles Wapping in Lon- don, it confifting of dirty narrow ftreets of mean houfes. Here is a handfome charitable foundation, Mr. Henry Pinnock having, in 1624, given twenty-one dwelling houfes, and a houfe for a mafter weaver, to employ the poor j and a good eftate is alio fettled for the repairs. Round the town are feveral kitchen gardens that yield excel- lent afparagus, which not only fupplies the neigh- bouring places, but great quantities are fent to the London markets, where it is preferred to that of Batterfea. All outward-bound fhips are obli- ged to anchor in this road till they have been vi- fited by the cuftom-houfe officers ; and for this purpofe a centinel at the block-houfe gives notice by firing a mu(ket ; and as thefe vefTels generally Itay to take in provifions here, the town is full of feamen, and is in a conftant hurry. It has two markets, which are held on Wednefdays and Sa- turdays ; and two fairs, one kept on the 23d of April, and the other on the 24th of October, for horfes, cloaths, toys, and other articles.

CoBHAM, formerly the feat and manor of the Cobhams, from whom it took its name, is a vil- lage four miles fouth by eaft of Gravefend, and about two miles to the north of the road to Ro- jchefter. The church of this town is collegiate, ^nd in it are very ancient monuments of the fami- lies of Cobham and Brook. It hiid the grant of

a market

4^ ^Description;?/'

a maket and fair ; but they are now both dircon- tinned.

Cliff is a village fix miles eaft of Gravefend, and five fo.uth of Rochefter. In the Conqueror's time it was called Bifhops ClifF; for fome ages be- fore they had their yearly meetings here, on the firft of Auguft, to enadt and fettle rules for the regulation of the clergy. The village is pretty large, as is alfo the parifh church, and it had once a fair, which is now difcontinued.

Cowling Caftle is a. little to the eaft of ClifF, and was built by John, lord Cobham, in the reign of Richard the Second, in the year 1381, and with the barony by heirs general, defcended to the noble family of Brook, and at length came to Thomas Beft of Chatham, Efq-, There are large remains of it, which are moated round, and there are ftill two embattled round towers on each fide the entrance, that feem to be entire, befides feve- ral others that are half ruined, but fliow that it was once a very large, magnificent, and ftrong place.

From Gravefend the road extends about fix miles fouth-eaft to Stroud, which joins to Ro- chefter, from which it is parted by the river Med- way, but joined to it by a bridge. Here was a man- fion of the knights templars, and though the order h^s been long lince diflblved, the manor in which it ftood is ftill called the Temple. In 1194 Gil- bert Glanville, biftiop of Rochefter, built an hofpital, called the New Work, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, for the reception and relief of poor, weak, infirm people, and indigent ftrangers and travellers, who were to be allowed a bed, with meat and drink, till they either recovered or died. Here was a mafter, warden, and feveral priefts, but the revenue at the fuppreftion was only valued at 52 1* 9 s. 10 d. a year. The church of this

town

ro/.i:/\i.}o.

W^i		wm\
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911111	^^Hiiiiyiif' !
^^^I^^H

KENT. 49

town was anciently only a chapel of eafe, ere6led by the above mentioned bifhop. There is a fair at Stroud on the 26th of Auguft, for toys.

Rochester is a very ancient city, and the Duro Brives of Antoninus. It is feated in a val- ley, on the eaft fide of the river Medv^ay, which is here very broad and rapid, at the diftance of twenty-nine miles from London, and is joined to Stroud by a {lately bridge, built in the reign of Henry the Fourth, by Sir John Cobham and Sir Robert Knowles, out of the fpoils they had taken from the French. It confifts of twenty-one arches, and is pne of thebeft and ftrongefl bridges in England, next to thofe of London, VVeflmin- fler, and Newcaftle upon Tine. This bridge is kept in conftant repair out of the produce of cer- tain lands, appropriated to that purpofe by a6l of parliament in the reign of king Richard the Third, and by two other a6ls in the reign of queen Eli- zabeth. In 1744 it was repaired and adorned with iron pallifades. The Roman city, which was one of their principal ftations, was very ftrong, it being furrounded with a wall and ditch. Near the angle below the bridge is a large piece of the Roman wall made of rubble-ftone, here and there intermixed with Roman bricks, and many Roman coins, urns, and other antiquities have been found here. The ancient city feems to have been of a fquare form, with the Roman road, called Watling-ftreet, running diredly through the midft of it. Some part of an old caftle, faid to have been built by William the Conqueror, is flill {landing and kept in repair. It is ufed as a magazine, and a party of foldiers con{lantly do duty in it Of this ftrudlure we have given a north- Weft view. Many lands in this county are {lill held by the ancient tenure of Cadle-guard ; that is, upon condition, that the tenant, in his turn,

Vol. V. C ftiould

50 -^ Description c/*

ihould mount guard at the caftle ; but a compo* fition is taken for this fervice, which the tenants are obliged to pay ; for upon a day appointed, a flag is hung out from that part of the caftle, which is ftill kept in repair, and fuch of the te- nants as do not then appear and pay their quit- rents, are liable to have them doubled at every tide of the Medv^^ay. Under the caftle wall, next the river, is a chalky cliff, part of which being waflied away, by the extraordinary rapidity of the ftream, the wall which it fupported is fallen to ruin, and forms a romantic appearance ; the ground on that fide is low, marfhy, and over- flowed by every high tide.

Rochefter is a fmall city, that chiefly confifts of one broad, ill built ftreet, and has only the cathedral and one parifti church. The body of the cathedral was originally ere£ted by Ethelbert king of Kent, who dedicated it to St. Andrew, and made Rochefter an epifcopal fee. It was re- paired upon the original plan in the reign of Wil- liam the Conqueror, by Gundulph, bifhop of this diocefe, who is faid to have been an architedl, and to have fuperintended the building of the caftle by the king's orders. On the north fide of the north-weft tower of the cathedral, is the efligy of this biftiop, and here are walls four yards thick, which are the remains of a ftructure cal- led Gundulph's tower. Rochefter has fent mem- bers to parliament ever fince the firft fummons for fuch an aflfembly, and is governed by a mayor, a recorder, and twelve aldermen, of whom the mayor is one ; twelve common-councilmen, a town-clerk, three ferjeants at mace, and a water- bailiff. Here is a town-houfe and charity-fchool, which are the beft buildings in the place, except the churches. A free-fchool intended for inftrud- ing the freemens fons chiefly in the mathema- tics.

KENT. 51

tics, was founded here by Sir Jofeph Wllllamfon, one of the members for the city, and formerly one of the plenipotentiaries at the treaty of Ryfwick, Here is an alms-houfe, built by Richard Watts^ for fix poor travellers to lodge in at nights, who are allowed four pence in the morning when they go away, but thofe affli6led with any contagious difeafe, and all rogues and prG(9:ors, are to be re- fufed admiflion. The latter he excepted, becaufe one of that profeiTion whom he had employed, when fick, to make his will, villainoully devifed the whole eftate to himfelf ; but Mr. Watts hap- pily recovering, he was dete6ted. This founda- tion is now fo improved, as not only to anfwer the firft intention, but to fet poor people to work ; and in fummer here are always fix or eight lodgers, who are admitted by tickets from the lord mayor. Here was an hofpital for the habitation and relief of thirteen poor perfons, which was begun by Haimo, bifliop of Rochefter, about the year 1336, and dedicated to St. Bartholemewj the revenues of which, in the year 1562, were valued at only € 1. a year.

In feveral of the creeks and branches of the Medway, within the jurifdidtion of the city, is nn oyfter ilfhery ; and every perfon who has ferved {even years apprenticeftiip to any fifherman or dredger, who is free of it, hath the privilege of taking them. Once a year, oroftner upon occa- fion, the mayor and citizens of Rochefter hold what is called an Admiralty-court, to appoint the times when oyfters fhall be taken, and fettle the quantity each dredger-man Ihall take in a day. Thofe who dredge for oyfters, without being free of the fifliery, are termed cable-hangers, and are profecuted and puniflied by this court. This fiftiery is now in a flourifhing ftate, and every li- cenfed dredger annually pays 6 s. 8»d to the fup-» C 2 port

^t A Description of

port of the court. The town has a market oa Fridays, with two fairs, the firft held on the 30th of May, and the other on the nth of Decem- ber, for horfes, bullocks, and various commodi- ties.

This city has undergone many misfortunes; for in the year 676, it was deftroyed by Etheldred, king of Mercia ; and in 839 it was pillaged by the Danes ; they alfo befieged it again in 885, when they caft up works round it ; but it was relieved by king Alfred. In the reign of William Rufus, Rochelier v/as feized by the Normans and Eng- liOi, who kept it for Robert, the king's brother, whom they intended to place on the throne. Wil- liam Rufus was fix v/eeks before it, without ma- king any progrefs, and the befieged defended themfelves with fuch bravery, that he began to lofe all hopes of fuccefs ; but at length a contagi- ous diftemperfo weakened thofe who held the city for Robert, that they were compelled to defire a capitulation, and his adherents were permitted to march out with their horfes.

Chatham, which joins to Rochefter on the eaft, is famous for being a ftation of the royal na- vy, and has a dock, which was begun by queen Elizabeth, and has been fo greatly improved by her fucceffors, who built fuch a number of ftore- houfes, that there is not at prefent a more complete raval arfenal in the world. They have formed new docks, launches, maft-houfes, boat-houfes, and {lore-houfes, one of which is fix hundred and fixty feet in length : befides thefe, are boat- yards, anchor-yards, forges, foundaries, canals and .ditches, for preferving the marts and yards in v»^a- ter. In the ftore-houfcs are depofited all the fails, rig2;ing, ammunition, guns, great and fmall {hot, fmall arms, fwords, cutlaffcs, half pikes, and the Other furniture of the fliips moored in the Med-?

way,

KENT. 53

way, powder excepted, which, to prevent acci' dents, are generally kept in paticular magazines. Thefe ftores are laid up in feparate buildings, and maybe taken out on the mod emergent occafions without confufion. Befides thefe, are warehoufes for ftores, Sic. for fhips in general, and for thofe that are to be built, or repaired. For this pur- pofe there are feparate magazines of hemp, flax, tow, pitch, tar, rofin, and oil ; alfo fail-cloth, (landing and running rigging, ready fitted, and cordage not fitted ; with blocks, tackles, run- ners, &c. cooks, boatfwains, and gunners ftores ; anchors of all fizes, grapples, chains, bolts^ fpikes, wrought and unwrought iron, caft iron, pots, cauldrons, furnaces, &c. alfo fpare mafts and yards, with great quantities of lead, nails, and all other neceflaries. Here bufinefs is done without the leaft confufion, fo that even a firft or fecond rate is often completely equipped for an ex- pedition in a very few tides.

The church ftands on a precipice near the yard, and commands an extenfive profpe6l up and down the Medway. Under the church yard, adjoining to the river, is the gun yard, in which are feveral hundreds of the largeft and fineft cannon in the kingdom, fit for immediate ufe; and in the town is a handfome victualling-office, for the more fpee- dily furnifhing the men of war with provifions on any emergency. Here are two commiilioners, with other officers of the navy, whofe houfes are well built, and the public buildings are extremely large and beautiful. This important ftation is defended by Upnor and Gillingham Caftles. The former ftands on the weft fide the river, almoft oppofite to the dock, and was erected by queen Elizabeth : an its platform are thirty feven guns that command two reaches of the river, and de- fend all the ftiips that ride between that place and C 3 Rochefter

54- ^ Description c/

Kochefler bridge. Gillingham caftle is well fur- nifhed with guns, that likewife command the river, there being no lefs than one hundred and feventy embrazures for cannon, which would ftopthe pro- grefs of any enemy that fliould pafs by Sheer- nefs Fort, before they could reach Chatham. In the late war, lines were drawn for the defence of Chatham yard, and it was defended by a ftrong garrifon : the workmen in the yard were alfo em- bodied and difciplincd, that in cafe of any emer- gency they might be able to affift the garrifon.

That called theCheft at Chatham was inftitu- ted in the year 1558, when the feamen in the fer- vice of queen Elizabeth agreed to allow a portion of each man's pay, for the relief of their fellows, who had been wounded in the defeat of the Spanifh Armado ; this cuftom has continued ever fmce. An hofpital was alfo erected here at the private ex- pence of Sir John Hawkins, for the relief of ten cr more aged or maimed mariners or fhipwrights. Chatham has a market on Saturdays, and two fairs, held on May 1 5 and September 19, for horfcs, bullocks, and all forts of commodities.

Gundulph, bifhop of Rochefter, founded at Chatham an hofpital for leprous perfons, in the reign of William Rufus, dedicated to St. Bar- tholemew. Jt was afterwards confirmed by Hen- ry the> Third, and other kings, and increafed by feveral benefadors. The governor was ftiled cuf- tos or warden, and fometimes prior, and the bre- thren, canons.

In the year 1667, while a peace was negocia- ting between England and Holland, the Dutch fent a fleet commanded by admiral Ruyter, who, on the 8th of June, came to the mouth of the Thames, from whence he detached vice admiral Van Ghent, with feventeen of his lighteft fhips, and fome fire Ihips. That officer two days after

failed

KENT. 55

failed up the Medway, took the fort of Sheernefs, burnt a magazine of ftores to the value of 40,000 1. and blew up the fortifications. This adtion alarm- ed the city of London, and to prevent greater mifchiefs, feveral {hips were funk, and a large chain laid acrofs the narrowed part of the river Medway. But by means of an eafterly wind and a ftrong tide, the Dutch fhips broke the chain, failed between the funk veflels, and immediately burnt three large fliips and feveral others. Then failing up a far as Chatham, burnt the Royal Oak, the Loyal London, and the Great James. The citizens of London were now flruck with confternation, and apprehended that they fhould fee the Dutch fleet at London bridge; and to prevent this, thirteeen fhips were funk at Wool- wich, and four at Blackwall, while platforms fur- nifhed with artillery were raifed in feveral places. But the Dutch, after this bold ftroke, thought fit to retire.

{ Milton, or Middleton, is fald to have been fo called from its fituation in the middle of the coaft of the county, reckoning from Deptford to the Downs. It is fiiuated about eight miles to the eailward of Rochefter, near two miles to the north of the road to Canterbury, and forty-four weft by fouth of London. The kings of Kent had a palace here, for which reafon it is ftiled, in ancient records, the Royal villa of Middleton ; ^nd the court being often kept here, rendered it in a flourifhing condition, till earl Godwin, and his confederates, burnt down the palace in the reign of king Edward the ConfefTor. The church ftands near a mile from the town, is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and has feveral ancient mo- numents. The town is large, and governed by a j)ortrieve, annually chofen on St. James's day, who fupervifes the weights and meafures all over C 4 the

56 ^ Description tf/

the hundred. It has a port for barges, and a great iifhery for oyflers, vaft quantities of which are fent to London, where they are ufually called Melton oyfters. The town, though large, is fo hid among the creeks of the Eaft Swale, that it is icarcely to be feen at any diftance either by land or water. It has a confiderable market on Satur- days, for corn, fruit and other provifions ; and a fair on the 24th of July, for toys. The reader fhould not confound this town with Milton, which we have already- mentioned as united to Gravefend, that being only a fmall inconfiderablc place, when compared to this.

To the north of Milton, out of the road to Canterbury, is the Ifle of Sheppey, which we have already obferved in treating of the rivers of this county, is feparated from it by the Eaft Swale. This ifland is fo called on account of the great number of fheep ufually fed here. It is thought by Camden to be the Toliatis of Ptole- my. In all themarfhy parts are Tumuli, termed by the inhabitants Coterels i and are fuppofed to have been caft up, in memory of the Danilh of- ficers buried there. It is twenty-one miles round, and yields plenty of corn j but the inhabitants are obliged to buy their wood, at a dear rate, from the continent. The pafTage hither from the main land of Kent, is by King's ferry, where the boat is towed over by a cable, about one hundred and forty fathoms long, faftened at each endacrofs the water. Moft of the fprings in this ifland are brackifh ; but a well being lately funk, it fupplies Sheernefs with frefh water. On the north fide of this ifland arc clifts of different ftrata or clay, to about eighty feet high, which decreafe gradually to the weftward. As thefe clifts moulder down by frofts and ftormy weather, a great variety of ex- traneous bodies, faturated with pyritical matter,

are

KENT. 57

are fcattered along thefhore ; among thefe are found teeth, vertebrae, and other parts of fifh, and ma- ny entire crabs, and other filh of the cru^aceous kind, petrified wood, and variety of feed vefTels ; there are nodules alfo, v^^hich being broken, con- tain within them fair fpecimens of the nautilus crafTus Indicus. In this ifland are the following places worthy of notice.

Sheerness is a point on Sheppey ifland, where that branch of the Medway, called the Weft , Swale, falls into the Thames : it has a royal fort raifed by king Charles the Second, and a line of cannon facing the mouth of the river, with good apartments for the officers of the ordnance, navy, and garrifon ; and here is a yard and dock as an appendage to Chatham. The above fortifications were erected here to fecure the entrance of the river Medway, after the Dutch had pafled up it to Chatham.

Minster is a village in thelfleof Sheppey, two miles fouth-eaft of Sheernefs, and is fo called, from a convent built there by Sexburga, widow to Ercombert, king of Kent, and the mother of king Egbert, in the year 660, who endowed it for feventy nuns of the order of St. Benedict. This houfe was burnt down by the Danes about a hundred and twenty years after it was eredled, but it was afterwards rebuilt, and filled with Be- nedictine nuns, by William, archbifhop of Can- terbury, in the year 1130, and dedicated to St. Mary, and St. Sexburga. At the time of th« diflblution, here was a priorefs and ten nuns, whofe annual revenues amounted to 122 I ^3 s. 6d.

QuEENBORouGH, in the Ifle of Sheppey, is a town of great antiquity 3 it had a caftle, not only for oefence, but to be a place of refuge to the inhabitants, in cafe of an invafion ; it was erecled by Edward the Third, and fome fay he built both C 5 the

5S -//Description ^

the caftle and town, in honour of his queers. The caftle becoming ruinous, it was repaired by Henry the Eighth, who alfo at the fame time erecSied block-houfes along the fea-coaft. It has a corporation, governed by a mayor, four jurats, a conftable, a town-ferjeant, and a water- bail iff, granting it the cognizance of pleas ; with a mar- ket on Mondays and Thursdays ; and a fair, namely, on the 5th of Auguft; but the markets have been long difufed ; and tho' it has a mayor, &c. and fends two reprefentatives to parliament, it is a dirty poor place, the chief townfmen being oyfter-dredgers and alehoufe- keepers.

We fhall now return into the road from Ro- chefter to Canterbury, at Sittingborn, which is near two miles fouth of Milton, and eight miles north-eaft of Rochefter. It had once a market, and was governed by a mayor, but now has neither market nor corporation, though it is a confiderable thoroughfare, and has feveral com- modious inns, particularly one ftill known by the fign of the Red lion, where John Norwood, a neighbouring gentleman, gave an entertainment to king Henry the Fifth and his retinue, on their return from France, the whole expence of which was no more than nine (hillings and nine pence, wine being then fold at two pence a pint, and every thing elfe proportionably cheap. Near this place are fome fmall remains of the ftone work and ditches of a fortification, raifed by king Al- fred, for its defence. This town has two fairs, one held on Whit Monday, for linen and toys j the other on the icth of Odober, for linen, wool- len-drapery, and hard-ware.

About two miles from hence is Tong, or ToNGE, where there was a famous caftle, which^ after the heptarchy, came into the hands of the kings of Engl and J by whom it was polTefled, till

it

KENT. 59

It was given to the family of Bedelefmere, who had a fair granted to be held here for three days, which is now negledled.

About fix miles to the eaft of Sittingborn is Feversham, which is feated a little to the north of the road to Canterbury, not far from the eaft end of the Ifle of Sheppey, forty-eight miles from London. It is a populous, flourifhing town, fi- tuated in the pleafanteft part of the county, and has a creek coming up to it from the Eaft Swale, on which account it is well frequented by hoys, and other fmall vefTels, which carry on a good trade, it being the principal port-town in this part of Kent. In the charter of king Kenulf, granted in the year 8i2, it is called the King's Little Town, on account of its imall dimenfions, tho* it is now a very confiderable place. This town chiefly confifts of one long broad ftreet, with a market-houfe, and charity- fchool, for ten boys and ten girls, at the expence of the inhabitants. This is a member of the cinque-port of Dover, and a corporation governed by a mayor, jurats, and commonalty. From hence the London mar- kets are fupplied with abundance of cherries, ap- ples, and the beft oyfters for ftewing, of which fuch great quantities are purchafed by the Dutch, that in the winter a confiderable number of men and boys are employed in dredging for them. The value of thofe annually taken from this town by the Dutch, amounc to 2000, or 2500 1. at the iirft purchafe. The tifliermen will allow none but married men to take up their freedom. Here are two markets, kept on Wednefdays and Satur- days ; and two fairs, held on the 25th of February, and the 12th of Auguft, for linen, woollen-dra- pery, and toys.

Anciently the Saxon kings had amanfion-houfe here, and here alfo, in 903, king Athelftan held a

great

6o !// Description fl/

great council, by which were ena6led fe vera! laws; There was alfo an abbey of Benediiftine monka, tranilated from the abbey of Bermondfey in Sur- ry, by king Stephen, the founder thereof. They at firft came from Clugni in Normandy, but after- wards were difcharged from obedience and fub- jedion, to thofe foreign monks, and were made of the order of St. Benedid. Selden tells us, that the abbots of Feverfham were called to twelve feveral parliaments, though they were af- terwards excluded. Befides the abbot, there were but twelve monks, in imitation of Jefus Chrift and his apoftles, and they had feveral rules pecu- liar to themfelves. They never dined alone, but en- tertained guefts, living in or near the town, {gran- gers living in the country, pilgrims travelling for devotion, and beggars. The abbey was alfo a fanc- tuary, and offenders, if they could reach the altar of the church before they were feized, were freed from the rigour of the law. At the time of the dilTolution, it was valued at about 286 1. a year.

Near this place, as well as in other parts of the county, there are pits, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, with diftind: rooms, fupport- ed by pillars of chalk. Some think they were defigned for chalk pits, others for granaries, and Others for places of retreat, in times of war.

Danuton, or Davington, is a fmall village feated on a hill, not far from Feverfham, which had a convent of black nuns, whofe founder is not certainly known, but it was valued at the fupprellion at 400 1. a year.

At OsPRiNG, near Feverfham, was an hofpital founded about the year 1235, by king Henry the Third, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It confifted of a mafter, and three regular brethren, of the order of the Holy-Crofs, and two fecular clerks i but fell to decay about the end of the

reign-

KENT. 6i

re'ign of king Henry the Fourth. After which, by the procurement of bifhop Fifher, king Henry the Eighth prefented it to St. John's college in Cambridge.

Badlesmere is a village three miles fouth of Feverfham, the church of which is dedicated to St. Leonard, and it has a fair on September 9, for linen and toys. Bartholemew, lord of Badlef- mere, in the thirteenth year of Edward the Se- cond, obtained a licence for founding here a houfe of regular canons.

Thomas Randolfe, an eminent llatefman in the fixteenth century, was born in the year 1523, at this village, and educated, jfirft under the fa- mous George Buchanan, and afterwards at Chrift's church college in Oxford. Being a zealous pro- teftant, he retired into France in the reign of queen Mary ; but returning to England at the acceffion of queen Elizabeth, he was taken into favour, and employed in no lefs than eighteen era- baffies, all ofwhichheexecuted with equal prudence and fuccefs. Nor was his courage inferior to his other great qualities ; for during one of his em- baflies in Scotland, he fent a challenge to Virac, the French ambaflador there, on account of fome infult, which that gentleman had offered him. Queen Elizabeth, fenfible of his diftinguifhed me- rit, beftowed upon him the honour of knight- hood, appointed him chamberlain of the Exche- quer, and mafter of the pofts ; and gave him, at the fame time, fome confiderable eftates. He feems to have been a man of a religious turn of mind, and to have had no great opinion of the integrity of pub- lic minifters ; for, in one of his letters to Sir Francis Walfingham, his brother-in law, he fays, 'Tis now full time for us to bid farewel to the tricks ; youy of a fecretary^ and /, of an amhajfa- dor : and for both of us to endeavour to make our

•peace

62 A Description of

peace with heaven. He died June the 8th, 1590^ and was interred in the church of St. Peter, Paul's Wharf, London.

At ThrowleV, about four miles fouth of Fe- verfham, there was an alien priory of monks, which was a cell to the abbey of St. Bertin, at St. Omers in Artois, which, in the reign of Hen- ry the Sixth, was given in exchange to Siorj ab- bey in Middlefex.

Canterbury, was called by the Saxons Cant- Wara-Byrig, or the City of the People of Kent; and from thence its prefent name is derived. This ancient city, the chief of this county, and the metropolitan fee of all England, is fituated twen- ty-feven miles eaft fouth-eail of Rochefter, fix- teen north- weft of Dover, and fifty-fix fouth -eaft of London. It is a county of itfelf, and is go- verned by a mayor, a recorder, twelve aldermen, a iberifF, twenty^ four common-councilmen, a fword-bearer, and four ferjeants at mace. A court is held every Monday in the Guildhall for civil and criminal caufes, and every other Thurfday for the government of the city. It is divided in- to fix wards, which receive their names from its fix gates,North-gate,Weft-gate,Worth-gate, Rid- ing-gate, Newin-gate and Bur-gate. It confifts of four ftreets, all of which lead to St, Andrew's church in the center of the city, and, including the cathedral and gardens, is about three miles in circumference. 1 he buildings are generally old, and neither grand nor elegant ; but there is a good market-houfe, over which are rooms, in which the mayor and aldermen tranfad the affairs of the corporation. Befides the cath'xiral, here are fix- tecn parifa churches, and icveral meeting-houfes. The churches are St. Mary North-gate's, St» Paul's, All Saints, St. Mildred's, St. Mary Caf- tles, St. Andrew's, St. Mar) Magdalen's, St. Pe-

ter'sji

KENT. 63

ter's, St. George's, St. Alphage's, St. Martin's, St. Dunftan's, Holy Crofs of Weft-gate's, St. Margaret's, St. Mary Bredin's, and St. Mary Breadman's.

The cathedral was In part originally built in the time, of the Romans, by Lucius, the firfi: Chriftian king of the Britons ; and here the con- verted Britons worfhipped till they were driven beyond the Severn by the Pagan Saxons ; but Ethelbert, king of Kent, being converted by St, Auguftine the monk, about the year 6co, he gave him this church, together with his palace, and the royalty of the city and its territories. This cathedral being thus become the metropolitan church, Auguftine repaired and confecrated it by the name of Chrift church ; but in ion it was rifled and burnt, together with the reft of the city, by the Danes. King Canute, however, re- paired it, and prefented to it, his crown of gold j but in 1043, it was again much defaced by fire. Afterwards Lanfrac, the archbiftiop, rebuilt it en- tirely, and dedicated it to the honour of the Ho- ly Trinity ; but in the reign of Henry the Firft, it was again dedicated in the prefence of the king and queen, David, king of Scotland, and many of the biTnops and nobility of both kingdoms, by the name of Chrift church. It was again con- fumed by fire in 1174, but was begun to be re- built in the reign of king Stephen, and compleat- ed in that of Henry the Fifth.

Before the reformation, it had no lefs than thirty-feven altars, and in it lie interred the bodies of Henry the Fourth, and his queen, befides thofe of fix other kings, thofe of Edward the Black Prince, and of other princes, cardinals, archbi^ fhops, .&c. Among the reft St. Auguftine, with the feven archbifliops that immediately fucceeded him, lie interred in one vault. Thefe were Lau-

rentiusj

6 4 -^Description of

rentlus, Mellltus, Juftus, Honorius, Deus-Dedit, and Theodofius. To whofe honour the following verfes were engraved on a piece of marble in this vault.

Septem funt Angli primates & protopatres Septem restores, feptem coeloque triones ; Septem cifternae vitae, feptemque lucernae; Et feptem palmae regni, feptemque coronae, Septem funt ftellae, quas haec tenet area celiac

The (brine of St. Thomas Becket, archblfhop of Canterbury, who was -here murdered, was fo rich, by the conftant offerings for feveral ages made to it, that v/e are told by Erafmus, that his chapel glittered all over with jewels of ineftimable value, and that there appeared through the whole church a profufion of more than royal fplendor. Gold was one of the meaneft treasures of this fhrlne j and at the general diflolution of religious houfes, we are told by Dugdale, that the plate and jewels belonging to this tomb filled two large chefts, each of which required eight men to remove it.

This cathedral is at prefent a noble Gothic pile in the form of a crofs, five hundred and fourteen feet long, feventy-four broad, and eighty high, and in the middle is the tower, two hundred and thirty-five feet high. It is entire- ly vaulted with (lone, but like all other Gothic buildings, is much too high for its breadth. The place where the (hrine of Thomas Becket ftood, is ftill known by the marks of the knees of the devotees round about if, they having left deep im- preflions in the hard coarfe marble. The font is a mod curious and beautiful piece of workn.an- fhip. One had been formed by Dr. Warner, biiliop of Rochefler, but was deftroyed in the civil wars ; but he, afterwards caufed this to be

made

KENT. 6^

made in its room. Under the cathedral is the church of a Walloon congregation, which to fome appears fomewhat ftrange, as they do not conform to the liturgy of the church of England. To thi-s cathedral belong a dean, an archdeacon, twelve prebendaries, (ix preachers, fix minor canons, fix fubftitutes, twelve lay clerks, ten chorifters, two mafters, fifty fcholars, and twelve alms-men.

In the city is a fumptuous conduit erecSled by archbifhop Abbot, who died in 1633, and is of great benefit to the city. Near the cathedral is a free-fchool, termed the king's fchool, and here are three charity-fchools, in which are contained fifty-eight boys, and fixty-fix girls. Here are no lefs than feven hofpitals, one of which is called Bridewell, and is both a houfe of corredion, and a place for the reception of the fons of poor tradef- men. Canterbury has a market on Wednefdays and Saturdays; that on Wednefdays is toll-free for hops ; it has alfo a fair on the 29th of Sep- tember, for toys.

The Walloons who came hither in the reign of queen Elizabeth, brought the art of weaving broad filks with them, and that manufadure is now carried to fuch perfedion, that the filks are reckoned as good, if not better, than any foreign filks ; and great quantities of them are fent to London. Canterbury alfo derives great advan- tages from the hop grounds that lie round it, which confifi; of feveral thoufand acres, and were fome years ago efi:eemed the greateft plantation of hops in this kingdom. This city is alfo famous for its collars of brawn.

Canterbury is of very great antiquity, and fome would have it to have been built upwards of 900 years before the birth of Chrift ; but this is alto- ther improbable, for the inhabitants of Britain had in thofe early ages fcarce any buildings, they

lived

66 ^fDESCRIPTlON^

lived In huts, much in the fame manner as the na- tives of North-America now do, and had no more cloaths to cover them than they. That it was a place of fome importance in the time of the Romans, when it was called Durovernum, and Darvernum, appears from the Itinerary of Antoninus, from the Roman coins frequently dug up here, the remains ftill vifible of Roman build- ings, of a military way, and Roman caufeways leading from hence to Dover, and the town of Limme, near Hithe. Vortigern, king of the Bri- tons, refided here after the Romans, and yielded this city to the Saxons, in whofe time the chief magiftrate was called a Praefe6l, afterwards a Portrieve, and in loii, the king's provoft of Canterbury. During the Saxon heptarchy it was the capital city of the kingdom of Kent, and the feat of their kings, though not built by them ; for Hengiil long before kept his court here, as alfo did his fucceflbrs, till Ethelbert, becoming a Chrillian by the preaching of Auguftine the monk, gave him not only his palace, but the royalty, with the city and its territories ; and when that monk was created archbifhop, he made it the place of his refidence, as his fucceffors the arch- bifhops did for a long time after. This city fuf- fered greatly during the Saxon and Danifh wars, and yet rofe again with greater beauty. It ap- pears that at the time of the conqueft, the jurif- didions of the king and the archbifhop were in- termixed J and that though the archbifhop had a mint, and fome other confiderable privileges, yet the king had the fupreme royalty, till William Rufus gave the city, without any refervation, to biihop Anfelm.

Canterbury has been long famous both for its Roman and religious antiquities. It was flrong- ly v/alled round, and had many towers at due

intervals^

IWJj^o'

KENT, (>j

Intervals, with a deep ditch under the walls, and a great rampart of earth within. The materials of the walls, which are now very ruinous, are chiefly flint. Here alfo was a caftle, fuppofed to have been built by the Saxons, the decayed bul- warks of which ftill appear on the fouth fide of the city. This ftru6lure, of the ruins of which we have given a view, appears to have been of the fame form with that at Rochefter, and the walls are of the fame thicknefs. The original ground plot of the ancient city is, however, fpoiled by churches being built in the middle of the ftreets. North-gate, which ftands under the caftle, and is now partly walled up, is entirely a Roman work, and has a femicircular arch of Ro- man brick beautifully turned, with piers of ftone^ of the thicknefs of three Roman feet. At a fmali diftance from the caftle is a very high mount, call- ed Dungeon hill, with a'ditch and high bank that enclofed the area before it. The top of Dungeon hill is as high as that of the caftle, and has a fine profpeft over the city and country. Oppofite to it, without the walls, is a hill, probably raifed by the Danes, when they befieged the city. Ridin- jgate, which is at a fmall diftance, is of a mo- dern date, but has part o\ a Roman arch. Here are the remains of the famous moilaftery of St. Auguftine, built by the firft metropolitan, near the palace of St. Ethelbert, two gates of which remain next the city, both of which are very ftately. Perhaps one belonged to the palace, and the other to the monaftery, which was doubtlefs very magnificent and extenfive, as appears from the great compafs of ground it took up, furround- ed with a very high wall. At the weft end of the church, as is fuppofed, were two great towers; half of one of them is ftill remaining, and called £thelbert's tgvver, as is alfo a part of the other.

This

68 ^Description^''

This is about thirty feet high, and was under- mined by digging away acourle at the bottom, in order to throw it down ; but this was not done effedually, for it lodged itfelf in the ground, irt an inclining ftate. The fight is fomewhat dread- ful, and forbids too near an approach on any fide. The adjacent clofe is full of religious ruins and foundations, but a great part of it is turned into a itable. In one corner are the walls of a chapel, the lower part of which is of Roman brick.

Eaftward of this, and farther out of the city, is the church of St. Martin, faid to be a Chriftian place of devotion, where king Ethelbert's queen ufed to attend divine fervice. It is built for the moft part of Roman brick.

The monaftery of St. Auguftine belonged to the cathedral, and was for the moll part under the care of a dean, and fecular canons, till archbi- fhop Aelfric, in the year 1003, expelled them, and put monks in their place ; but the feculars foon after feem to have repofTefied themfelves, and continued till bifhop Lanfrac rebuilding the ca- thedra], and the adjacent buildings, filled them with a hundred and fifty monks of the Benedi6line order; from which time the monaftery was often ftiled the church or priory of the Holy Trinity, as well as Chrift church ; and befides the rich of- ferings at the fhrine of Thomas Becket, it was at the general diflblution endowed with a yearly revenue of 2387 1. 13 s. clear.

King Ethelbert alfo founded another monafte- ry here in the year 605, which he dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul ; but it was afterwards called St. Auguftine's abbey. The monks, who were of the Benedi6line order, had a revenue, which at the diflfolution amounted to 1413I. 4 s. 11 d. a year.

Without

KENT. 6^

Without the North-gate, Lanfrac, archbifhop of Canterbury, founded an hofpital for poor, infirm, lame, or blind, men and women, which he de- dicated to St. John Baptift, and endowed with 70 1. a year. It was almofl deftroyed by fire ia the reign of Edward the Third, and charitable con- tributions were gathered for rebuilding it. This is ftill in being, and it is faid to contain a prior, a reader, eighteen in-brothers, twenty in-fifters, and the like number of out-brothers and out-fif- ters. It has a handfome chapel decently kept, ■where divine fervice is performed, and its revenues amount to 195 1. a year. .,

St. Gregory's was a priory, which flood near the North-gate of the city, and was built by Lan- frac, for fecular priefts in the year J084; but archbifl,iop William, in the reign of Henry the Firft, made it a priory of black canons. About the time of the difiblution, here were thirteen re- ligious, who had an annual revenue of 121 1. 15s.

St. Sepulchres was a nunnery of the Benedic- tine order, built by archbifhop Anfelm, about the year iioo. Elizabeth Barton, commonly called the Holy Maid of Kent, was a nun here ; and pretended a revelation from heaven, againft Hen- ry the Eighth's divorce from queen Catharine, and againft the dodrine of Luther. This nunnery confifted of a lady priorefs, and fix nuns. It was valued at the fuppreflion at 39 1 a year.

The hofpital of Kingfbridge or Eaftbridge, ftill in being In this city, is thought to have been founded by archbifhop Lanfrac, but archbifliop Stratford did fo much for it, as to be ftiled the fe- cond founder. It was originally for the enter- tainment of pilgrims, but its revenues at thedifTo- lution amounted only to 23 1. 18 s. gd. a year. It was preferved at the reformation, but being like to be fvyallowed up in queen Elizabeth's time, it;

was

^O >f Description <?/

was recovered by archbifhop Whitgift, who made ftatutes, which were confirmed by ad of parlia- ment j by which there are here eftabliflied a maf- ter, a fchool-mafter, five in-brothers, five in-fif- ters, and as many out-brothers and out-fifters.

In the fouth-eaft fuburb, Hugh, the fecond of that name, abbot of St. Auguftine, built an hof- pital, dedicated to St. Laurence, in the year 1 137, for the relief of leprous monks, and the poor parents and relations of any of the monks of that abbey. It confifted of a warden, or keeper, a prieft, one clerk, and fixteen brethren and fifters, the chief of whom was fometimes called the priorefs The revenues of this houfe were valued at the diiTolution at 39 1. 18 s. 6 d. in the whole, and 31 1. 7 s. lod. clear.

In St. Peter's parifh, almoft oppofite to the gate of the black friars, was an ancient hofpital, called St. Nicholas and St. Catharines, founded by one William Cockyn, a citizen here, which was, about the year 1203, united to the neighbouring hofpital of St. Thomas at Eaftbridge.

The Minor, Francifcan, or Grey friars, came into England in the year 1224, and were nine in number, five of whom, by the direction of king Henry the Third, fixed the firft houfe of their or- der on a piece of ground near the poor priefts hof- pital. John Diggs, an alderman, and feveral times (herifF of Canterbury, tranflated them to an ifland called Bynnewith, on the weft fide of the city. K.ing Henry the Seventh was a benefa6^or to them, as was alfo Richard Martin, who by his will gave liberally both to the church and con- vent. Hugh Rich, warden of this convent, was one of thofe who joined the holy maid of Kent in her impofture, and fufFered with her. This was fupprelFed with the other religious houfes, but the value of its revenue is not known.

In

KENT. 71

In the parifh of St. Margaret, Simon de Lang- ton, archdeacon of Canterbury, founded an hof- pital for poor, infirm, aged priefts, which was valued at the diirolution at 28 1. i6s. in the whole, and 10 1. 13 s. 8 d. clear. It continued undiflolved till the feventeenth of Elizabeth, when being furrendered up, the queen granted it, with all its lands, to the mayor and commonalty of the city; and it is now, as hath been already men- tioned, called Bridewell hofpital, from its being a houfe of corre6tion

Mainyard's Spittle, was an hofpital founded by the mayor and commonalty, who endowed it with as much land and old leafes, as amounted to five marks a year. In 1362, feven poor people were maintained in it.

St. James, or St. Jaques hofpital for leprous women, was dedicated to St. James, and was de- figned to maintain one clerk, three priefts, and twenty-five leprous women. At the time of the fuppreffion it was found to be worth 46 1. a year, tho' it was not difTolved till a little while after.

In the reign of king Edward the Firft or Se- cond, the friars heremites, of the order of St, Auguftine, obtained a fettlement and a houfe in the parifh of St. George, by the gift of Richard French, baker: to this houfe king Edward the Third, and others, were benefa6lors.

The knights templars had alfo a houfe, and wore crofTes on their upper garments, to diftinguifh them from all other orders. They alfo built themfelves houfes in moft great towns, and that at London Is ftill called the Temple; but this or- der was aboliflied in 1318. There was alfo ano- ther houfe built by Edward the Black Prince, for certain chantry priefts, and their fucceflbrs. It is fliil ftanding, and the prlPiCe's arms are to be feen

over

72 ^Description of

over the porch, though the ufe of it is quite changed.

Thomas Linacre, one of the mofl learned phy- ficians of the fixteenth century,, was born in this city about the year 1460, and educated at the fchool of his native place, and at All Souls col- lege in Oxford. After going through the ufual courfe of an academical education, he went over to Italy, and fitudied Greek under Demetrius Chal- condylas, and Latin under Angejlo Politian : of both thefe tongues heacqurredfo thorough a know- ledge, that he was confidered as one of the moft accompliflied linguifts of the age. r Having thus perfedled himfelf in claflical learning, he repaired to Rome, and applied to the ftudy of natural phi- lofophy and phyfic, particularly the latter ; and, upon his return to- Englaind, became phyfician, firft to prince Arthur, then: to king Henry the Se- venth, afterwards to king Henry the Eighth, and, laft of all, to the princefs Mary. In order to en- courage the ftudy of phyfic, he founded two lec- tures in that fcience at Oxford, and one at Cam- bridge. Itwashe,likewife,thatproje(Sledthefounda- tion of the College of Phyficians^ which was eftablilh- ed in 15 18, and of which he was chofenthe firft prefidenr. Towards the" latter end of his life he ftudied divinity, entered into orders, and obtain- ed fome livino;s in the church. He died of the none, aged fixty^four ; and was buried in St. PauPs cathedral, London. A monument was af- terwards eredled to his memory by his friend Dr. Caius. He tranflated into Latin Proclus de. Sphae- ra^ and fome treatifes of Galen \ and wrote a learned book, entitled, De EmeridataLatini Scrmo- nis St7-u^ura. Erafpius commends the elegance

too elaborate. There goes a common report, that he was much addicted to fwearingj and that ha- ving

KENT. 73'

ving never read the fcriptures till his old age, he happened, at his firfl: glance into them, to light upon thofe words of Our Saviour, where he for- bids fwearing ; upon which Linacre cried out with a great oath, that either this book zuas not the Gofpel^ or there were no ChrijVians in the world,

Richard Boyle, one of the ablefl ftatefmen of the feventeenth century, and commonly known by the name of the Great Earl of Cork ^ was def- cended of an ancient and honourable family, and born in this city October the 3d, 1566. He was educated at Canterbury fchool, and in Bennet college, Cambridge. In 1588, he went over to Ireland, where he foon raifed himfelf to eminence and'diftin6lion. The firfl: foundation of the great fortune, which he afterwards acquired, was the marriage portion of his firft lady, amounting to 500 1. per annum. In 1616, he was advanced to the peerage, by the ftile of baron of Youghall ; and, about four years after, was created vifcount Dungarvan, and earl of Cork. His credit under the fucceeding fovereign Charles the Firfl was ra- ther increafed than diminifhed j for he procured from that monarch titles of honour for moft of his younger fons, even in their infancy. In 1631, Jie obtained the poft of lord treafurer of Ireland ; and, by a felicity peculiar to himfelf, this hio-h office was made hereditary in his family, as it has ever fmce continued. Upon the breaking out of the grand Irifh rebellion, he made a noble Hand againft the infurgents \ for having armed all his tenants, and committed the command of them to his four fons, he kept the enemy in fuch awe^ that the province of Munfter, where his lord- fhip's intereft chiefly lay, was the laft part of the kingdom, which the rebels dared to attack. He died September the 15th, i6|?, and was intpricd in his parifh church of Youghall.

VcL. V. D

74- -^ Description of

William Somner, an excellent antiquary of the feventeenth century, was born March the 30th, 1606, in the city of Canterbury, and bred iii\ the free-fchool of that place. Though this was all the education he received, hefoon diftinguifhed himfelf by his literary produ(5lions. His firft trea- tife was that of the Antiquities of Canterbury^ which was publifhed in the thirty-third year of his age. He then applied himfelf to the ftudy of the Saxon language, of which he became a mod accomplifhed mafter. He was alfo a confiderable proficient in the old Gallic, Irifh, Scotch, Go- thic, Sclavonian, German, and in moft of the ancient and modern tongues of Europe. He wrote obfervations upon Sir Roger Twifden's edi- tion of the laws of king Henry the Firft, and ac- companied them, at the fame time, v/ith a very ufeful gloflary. His treatife of Gravelkind was finilhed about the year 1648, tho' not publifhed till 1660. He adhered fteadily to king Charles the Firft, and upon the deceafe of that prince, wrote two poems on his fufferings and deaths He affifted Mr. Dugdale and Mr. Dodfworth in compiling the Monaflicon Anglicanum ; and about the year 1659 finifhed his Saxon dictionary. He died March the 30th, 1669, and was buried In St. Margaret's church in Canterbury.

Aphara Behn, an excellent poetefs of the laft age, was defcended of a good family in the city of Canterbury, and born fome time In the reign of king Charles the Firft, but in what year is un- certain. Her maiden name was Johnfon. When' very young, fhe was carried by her father to Su- rinam, where {he contracted an acquaintance with the American prince, named Oroonoko, whofe adventures (be has fo feelingly defcribed In the ce- lebrated Novel of that name. After her return to England, fhe married Mr. Behn, a merchant of

London,

KEN T. 75

London, and foon became (o eminent for her wit and ingenuity, that fhe was employed by king Charles the Second in feveral negociations in Flanders ; in all which fhe acquitted herfelf to the entire fatisfaclion of his majefty. Returning once more to her native country, fhe devoted the re- mainder of her life to poetry and pleafure ; and dying on the i6th of April, 1689, was interred in the cloyfter of Weftminfter abbey. Befides the novel above-mentioned, fhe v/rote feveral mifcel- laneous poems, feventeen plays, fome hiitories and romances 5 and tranflated Fontenelle's Plurality of Worlds.

At LiDDEN, near Canterbury, two men in Ju- ly 1760, grubbed up a very large afh-tree, whofe circumference at the root was upwards of fifty feet. In the center were two human fkeletons al- moft entire, which, by the bones and teeth, feem- ed to have been of a large ftature, and by them Jay a fcymeter or dagger ; their heads lay very near together, but their bodies, one to the eaft, and the other fouth-eaft, and each had a head- flone. It is not certain whether this tree grew on them cafually, or was fet over them as a memo- rial.

At Sturry, a village near Canterbury, fome men being digging in May 1755, they difcovered a large broad ftone, five feet deep in the earth,, and under it a flone coffin, with a leaden one inclo- fed, containing the remains of a human body, al- moft decayed, though the teeth in the jaws feemcd perfect. Some of the lead was much waited, as well as fome of the flone coffin. The lead feem- cd to be put together in fix pieces, without fol- der, and each foot thought to weigh thirty pounds. There was no infcription nor letter vifible, and it was fuppofed to be of great antiquity, asnoburial- place was near. An earthen quart jug was found D 2 near

76 J DEStklPTiON of

near It, which upon handh'ng crumbled to pieces," The length of the ftone coffin was fix feet four inches, and the lead coffin five feet eight; the per- fon interred "was fuppofed of fmall flature.

Chartham, is a village upon the Stour, about three miles fouth-weft of Canterbury. Here fome perfons who were finking a well, in the year 1668, liaving reached the depth of feventy feet, found a number of petrified bones of an uncom- mon fize and figure ; among thefe were four per- fe(5t teeth nearly as large as a man's hand. Some imagine them to be the bones of a fea anima!, which had perifhed there. This opinion was founded upon a fuppofition, that the long Vale, which extends upwards of twenty miles, and through which the Stour runs, was formerly aa arm of the fea. Others were of opinion, that they were the bones of an elephant ; for many elephants are faid to have been brought over into Britain by the emperor Claudius, who landed near Sandwich, and probably came this way in his march to the Thames. The fhape and fize of thefe teeth have been thought to agree with thofe of an elephant ; and the depth at which they were found is accounted for by the continual wafhing down of earth from the hills.

Six miles to the fouth-weft of Canterbury, and fcventeen to the weft of Deal, is Ckilham, which is faid to be the place where Julius Caefar encamped after his fecond expedition into Bri^ tain. He tells us himfelf, that he marched twelve miles from the fhore by night, and firft encoun- tered the Britons here ; v/hen they retreating into ii wood, he encamped. The Britons cut down vi great nuiBbcfcof trees, and pofled themfelves in a pUce, extreraely well fortified both by art and na- ture. Now this place being exa6Uy twelve miles from the fea coali, at; fome would have it, without

KENT. 77

any river between, they think there is great pro- bability that this was the place, where he conti- nued encamped for ten days, and that the v/ord Chilham, is only a corruption of Julham, focal- led from this emperor. But the author of the ad- ditions to Camden does not agree to this opinion, becaufe Julius Caefar affirms, that the place where he encamped, was twelve Roman miles, from that where he firll: landed, whereas Chilham is feverr.l more, efpecially if he landed at Deal, as fome maintain. Below this town there is a green bar- row, faid to be the burial-place of Jul-Labar, faid to be a giant ; but Mr. Camden thinks it was Laberus-Durus, the tribune, who was flain by the Britons, in the march of the Romans from the cam.p above-mentioned. King Lucius is faid to have built a palace here, which, when the Danes ravaged England, was turned into a caftle, which William the Conqueror gave to one Pulbert, who rebuilt it. It afterwards cam.- to the crown, and was given to lord Badelefmar, who forfeiting it for high treafon, it came to the crown again, and pafled through feveral other hands, till it came to Sir Dudley Diggs, mafter of the Rolls in 1636. It is very probable, that here were Roman buildings, becaufe when Sir Dudley Diggs removed the ruins of the old caf- tle, and was digging the foundation of his feat in the place where it ftood, there was difcovered the bafis of a more ancient ftrud^ure, and many Ro- man veiTels. This village has one fair on Novem« ber 8, for cattle.

About fix miles north-eaft of Canterbury Is FoRDWicH, a place feated on the river Stour, over which it has a bridge. This town is a member of the port of Sandwich, and was anciently in- corporated by the name of the barons of the town ©f Eordwich, but more lately by the name of the D 3 mayor,

78 y/ Description of

mayor, jurats, and commonalty, who enjoy the fame privileges as the inhabitants of the cinque ports, but it has at prefent neither market nor ♦fair.

WiNGHAM is a village fix miles eaft of Can- terbury in the road to Sandwich. Here was a col- lege founded and endowed by John de Peckham, archbifhop of Canterbury, in the year 1286, for ten fecular canons, two deacons, and two fub- deacons, which was valued at the fuppreffion at 84 1. a year. Here are two fairs, held on the lirft of May, and the firft of November, for cattle.

Sandwich received its name from the Saxon "Word Sondwic, which fignifies a fandy creek, it being fituated at the bottom of a bay near the mouth of the river Stour, at the diftance of thir- teen miles to the weft of Canterbury, and feventy eaft-fouth-eaft of London. It is feparated only by a fmall channel from the Ifle of Thanet, and is thought to have been built out of the ruins of the ancient Rutupiae, which was feated at a fmall dif- tance, and was anciently a large and populous place, that carried on a great trade ; for in the reig!\ of Edward the Fourth, the merchants of this town had ninety-five {hips, and employed one thoufiind five hundred failors, and the crown re- ceived from its cuftoms 17,00©!. a year, an im- menfe fum in thofe days. King Edward the Con- felTor refided here a confiderable time. Here many great armaments were fitted out ; and feveral bat- tles were fought in its neighbourhood. Sandwich haven was then one of the beft in England, and it is faid lay near two miles eaft-fouth-eaft of the prefent ; but it isnov/ filled up with a prodigious quantity of fmall pebbles, thrown into the bay by the rolling of the fea, and a hundred acres of the flat ground are covered fix or feven feet deep ; fo that it is with fome difficulty the communication

KENT. 79

is kept up with the Tea, and it can only receive fmall vefTels. Indeed the navigation was long ago ob- frru£led by a {hip of great burthen of pops Paul the Fourth, which was funk in the channel. Sandwich is a cinque port, and has a corporation, governed by a mayor, jurats, and commonalty ; and alfo fends two members to parliament. The members belonging to this town are Fordwich, which we have already defcribed ; Deal, which lies to the fouth of Sandwich ; Walmar, which lies to the fouth of. Deal; Ramfgate and Serre, two towns in the Ifle of Thanet ; Stonar, on the other fide of the Stour oppofite to Sandwich, and Brightlingfey in Effex. Sandv/ich was once wal- led round, and fome of the wall on the north and weft fides is ftill ftanding, while on the fouth and eaft, it is only fecured by a ditch. It fuffered much in the wars with the Danes, &;c. for here king Canute, in the year 1015, inhumanly flit the nofes, and cut oft the hands of fuch of the Eng- lifli as were given to Swain, his father, for hof- tages. In 12 17 it was burnt by the French ; and in 1457, the French again plundered and burnt the town, and alfo killed the mayor and other offi- cers. In the reign of Richard the Second, the woolftaple was removed hither fromQueenborough ; and in that of queen Elizabeth, fome Walloons and Dutch flying from perfecution, came hither, and fettled here a manufactory of woollen cloth. This town gives the title of earl to the noble fa- mily of Montague. Here were anciently four churches, dedicated to St. James, St. Clement, St. Peter, and St. Mary, but the firft is entirely demolifhed. Here are alfo three hofpitals, a cuf- tom-houfe, a quay, and a free-fchool, built out of the ruins of a Carmelite monaftery by Sir Ro- ger Manwood, with an exhib tionfor fending two fcholars annuallv to Lincoln college in Oxford. D 4 Here

8o >f Description^

Here are likewife two charity-fchools, one for twenty-five boys, and the other for the fame num- ber of girls. The chief trade of this town is in fhipping and malting. It fupplies London mar- ket with carrots, thofe of this town being in great requeft ; and it likewife fupplies the feedfmen with the greateft part of their flock for the kitchen garden. It has two markets, which are held on Wednefdays and Saturdays ; and one fair, on the 4th of December, for drapery, haberdafhery goods, fhoes, and hardware.

Sandwich was anciently a manor of the church of the Holy Trinity at Canterbury, given for clothing the monks, and was alfo a lathe and hundred within itfelf ; but in the year 1290, the monks furrendered all their right to it, except to a few houfes, and the quays. Here was a monaf- tery dedicated to the Virgin Mary, founded by the lady Domneva, who was affifted by king Egbert. This ftru^lure being deftroyed by the Danes, was rebuilt by queen Emma j but it was afterwards demoliflied by the French, when the materials v/ere made ufe of in building St. Mary's church. Here was another monaflery founded in 1272, by one Henry Cowfield, for Carmelite friars. In this town was likewife an hofpital, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, founded by Thomas Cromp- thorn, Efqj and Maud his wife, about the year 1 190, for a mafter, brethren and fifters, and three priefts, one of whom was to be prior. The re- venues were fo encreafed by Sir Henry Sandwich, lord *\^arden of the cinque ports, that here were maintained twelve brethren and four lifters. It was valued in 1562 at 40 1. a year, and is yet in being ; for there are fix poor men, and as many women, who have each a houfe and garden, with ahandfome allowance. It is under the care and government of the mayor and jurats. Here

was

{v/.K/xi.c^'i.

KENT. 8i

was alfo an hofpital for twelve poor perfons, de- dicated to St. Thomas, but it has been long ilnce demolifhed.

About a mile to the north of Sandwich is Rich- UOROUGH, which is generally allov/ed to be the Roman town, called Rutupiae by Ptolemy, Rhi- tupis Portus by Antoninus, and Portus Rhutu- pcnfis by Tacitus, which in the time of the Ro- mans was a great city, and had a celebrated har- bour, before it was choaked up v/ith fand ; for here the Roman forces ufually landed, and from hence they failed to the continent. At this town they erected a caftle, which was begun by Vef- pafian, and finiihed by Severus. This was the flation of the garrifon appointed to watch and de- fend the coall: ^ but it was deftroyed, together with the city, by the Danes : however, the walls of the caRle on three fides are pretty entire, and in fome places twenty-five and thirty feet high, but with- out any ditch. Of thefe ruins we have given an engraved view. The fide of the wall next the fea being upon a kind of cliff", its top is only level with the ground. At the eaft angle the wall deC- cends to another (lope, juft upon the river, which feems to have been in the nature of an out-work. In the middle of the north-eaft fide, is a fquarcr work projecting from the wall, which appears ti3 have been an oblique gate, for the ufe of thofe who came from the water fide; and it is not un- likely, that the gap on the north-eaft fide was ano- ther ftrong gate. It evidently appears from th^ ruins of the walls in various places, that both they and the cafilewere deliberately demolifned. At u fmall diftance are the remains of an amphitlicLitre made of turf, probably far the diverfion of the garr.fon. Many Roman antiquities have bj^a found here, and particularly gold and filver coins. IIuA'ever, ths fite of the city is now a corn fijid, D s bu.

82 ^Description of

but where the corn is grown up, the courfe of the itreets may be eafily difcerned, by the corn grow- ing confiderably thinner than in other places.

WooDNESBOROUGH is at a fmall diftance to the eaftward of Sandwich, and isfuppofed by fome authors to have received its name from the God Woden, worfhipped by the Pagan Saxons, who had probably a temple dedicated to him in this place. It has a fair on Holy-Thurfday, for toys.

To the north of Sandwich is the Ifle of Tha- ne t, which derived its name from the Saxon word Thaenet, which fignifies moift or watry, it being in many parts low and damp, and is befides fur- rounded with water. Others derive its name from the Britifli word Tan, or Fire, which they fuppofe was given to it, either on account of the many beacons formerly eretSled there to alarm the coun- try in cafe of an invafion, or from the nightly fire kindled on the North Foreland, as a dire61:ion to mariners to fhun the rocks and fands, with which this part of the coaft abounds.

This illand extends about nine miles from eaft to well, and eight from north to fouth. The fouth and fouth-weft fides lie low and marfhy, and the inhabitants are fubje61: to agues : but on the upper part to the eaft and north, it is feparated from the octan by a high perpendicular cliff of chalk. The foil is here quite dry, and the air remark- abl'/ pure j but it is rather too keen in winter for perfons who are of a tender conftitution. The whole furface of the country is extremely level, and in this part is great plenty of all kinds of corn, and but few paftures. This was the firfl place given to the Saxons by the Britifti king Vor- tigern, v/hen he fent for their alliftance againft the Scots and Pids ; and here the Danes began their ravages in England. The places moft worthy of notice in this illand are Margate and Ramfgate.

Margate

KENT. S3

• Margate, or St. John's, is feated on the north fide of the ifland, feventy-two miles fouth- eaft of London, and is a member of the town .and port of Dover, to which it is fubjecl in all matters of civil JLirifdiclion. The principal ftrcet is near a mile in length, and being built on an eafy defcent, the upper part is clean and dry, but the lower part much otherwife, though there are plenty of pebbles lying ufelefs in the beach. This harbour is pleafant, but not much frequented, for want of depth of water fufficient for {hips of heavy burden.

The church {lands on a little hill, about half a mile from the lower part of the town, next the fea, and is dedicated to St. John Baptift. It is a large building of flints rough-caft, with the quoins, windows and door-cafes of hewn ftone. It has three ifles, three chancels, and in the times of popery, there were three altars dedicated to St. Anne, St. John, and St. George, and over them in niches ftood the images of thofe faints. At the weft end of the north ifle ftands the tower, which is fquare and low, with only a (hort fpire on the top of it ; and within this tower is a ring of five bells, the largeft in the ifland. Adjoining to the fouth fide of the church yard, anciently flood two houfes called the Wax-houfes, where were made the wax lights ufed in the church, and at proceflions.

By that part of the town which lies next the fea is a pier of timber, built eaft and weft in the form of an half moon, to defend the bay from the main fea, and make a fmall harbour for ihips of little burthen, the corn hoys and fifliing boats. The trade of Margate with London is at prefent not very great, and it would be much lefs, was it not for its being the market of the v/hole ifland, where the in- habitants bring their corn, in order to fend it to London, Margate has however received great ad- vantage

84 -r^ Deschi ptloN <if

vantage from its being lately much frequented for bathing in the fait water, there being coveretl carriages conftrudted for carrying the patients in- to deep water, where, by a peculiar contrivance, the back, part of the carriage finks dov/n into the water, and forms a bath. Two phyllcians u- fually refide here during the bathing feafon. Here is alfo an aflembly-room, elegantly furnifiied, which flands on the parade, and commands a fine view of the harbour ; and a theatre, in which a com- pany of comedians from Canterbury perform three times a week. Hoys fet out from London to Mar- gate, and from Margate to London, every week, and fometimes perform the paflage in eight hours, though at others, they are two or three days ; and in thefe hoys the paflengers pay only two fhil- lings and fix- pence for the voyage.

We ought not to leave Margate without obferr- ing, that on the 2d of December, 1 763, was a dread- ful florm, in which the fea made a free pafTage over the new pier head, beat down the light that guided veflels into the port, threw down the gun battery, and forced the cannon into the fea.

About two miles to the eaftward of Margate, mre thofe venerable monuments of antiquity, th« banks of Hacken-Downe, or the Field of Battle- axes. There are here two tumuli or barrows, in which v/ere interred the chief officers killed in a bloody battle fought on this fpot, between the Anglo-Saxons and the Danes, in the year 853. One of thefe banks was opened by Mr. Reed, oc- cupier of the land, on the 23d of May, 1743, in the prefence of many hundred people, and in it were found feveral graves cut out of the folid chalk, and covered vvithftones; thefe contained bones perfe6lly found, with fome urns, in which were afh^s and charcoal, which crumbled to dull as

foon

K E N T. Si

foon as they were expofed to the air. The beil: hiftorians of thefc times inform us, that the battle was fought fo near the fea, that vaft number? were pufhed down the cliffs during the adion ; and it is highly probable, that the above tombs were only thofe of the chief officers, and that moft of the {lain on both fides were afterwards thrown into the fea, as no other remains of bodies have been ever found near the place.

Ramsgate is a neat fea-port tow^n, and a member of the port and town of Sandwich. It has many good houfes, but its trade is inconfider- able. The new pier now building is efteemed one of the fineft in the world, and attrads the admiration of all ftrangers. It is chiefly built of white Purbeck ftone, and extends near eight hun- dred feet into the fea before it forms an angle. Its breadth at the top is twenty-fix feet, including a ftrong parapet which runs all along the out-fide, and its depth admits of a gradual encreafe from eighteen to thirty-fix feet. The front, which faces the fouth, will, when linifhed, be of a poligonal figure. There will be five angles on a fide, of about a hundred and fixty-feet each, with octa- gons at the end of fixty feet, joined to the works already carried on in flrait lines ; and thefe Vv'ill complete the whole defign, leaving an entrance of two hundred feet into a noble and capacious har- bour. This is intended as a place of refuge for fhips in hard gales of wind, from the fouth-eaft to the eaft- north eafl, when they are expofed to the utmofl danger in the Downs.

Upon a ledge of rocks called the White Dyke, at a fmall diftance from hence, the San Genaro, a fine new Spanifh man of war of fixty-four guns, built entirely of cedar and mahogany, was wreck- «d on the 2d of March, J 763. She was richly

laden.

f 6 J D E s c ^ 1 p r 1 0 n of

laden, her cargo being valued at upward's of 70,000!. Had the harbour of Ramfgate been then complete, this valuable prize might poffibljr have been preferved^ But parting frora all her anchors in a ftorm in the Downs, and having no place of fafety-y to which {he could have re- courfe, her lofs became inevitable.

In the begmning of the year 1764, during the heavy rains and floods, a^entleman walking from Ramfgate to Pigwell, along a clifF feventy feet high, perceived the clifFgive way for more than twenty yards in length, and five or fix in breadth^ and fall into the fea. At low water he, and fe- veral others, went to the bottom of the clifF, to fee what had happened, when they difcovered /even graves twelve feet deep in the chalk $ •with fome bones, and a great number of bricks, but no traces either of coffins or buildings Seve- ral of thofe who were prefent imagined, they were the remains of fome of our Saxon anceftors 5, though others thought they were only the graves of perfons drowned, and interred there after a jQiipwreck.

Minster is a village in this ifland, feated about three miles and a half from Sandwich, in a very low marfhy bottom, and has a fair on Palm-Mon- day, for toys. King Egbert, in the year 670, beftowing on his niece Domneva feveral lands in the Ille of Thanet, ihe built a religious houfe at this village, dedicated it to the Virgin Mary, and placed in it her daughter St. Mildred, whom fhe made abbefs over feventy nuns. This abbey v/as plundered and burnt, and the nuns and clerks fe- veral times murdered by the Danes, particularly in the years 980, and 1011, after the laft of which times, here were no more nuns, but only a few fecuiar priefls, and their church and lands

were

KENT. 87

were in 1027 granted by king Canute to the monks of St. Auftin's, Canterbury, who tranflated the body of St. Mildred to their own church. St. Eadburga, the fecond abbefs, about the year 740, built a convent at fome diftance to the eaftward of the above abbey, and dedicated it to St. Peter and St. Paul.

About a hundred and thirty years ago, a farmer of Minfter, ordering his fervants to go to plow on a holiday, they, out of revenge, refolved to en- deavour to break the plough, and for that purpofe run it deeper into the ground than ordinary ; but had not gone far before they ftruck againft a pot filled with Roman filver coin, which the fhare brought up. Thefe were called by the country people Baldpates, and fome others of them v/ere many years afterwards found after ailiower of rain. Mr. Lewis, the learned author of the Hiftory and Antiquities of Thanet, was in poffeHion of one of thefe coins : it had the face of Lucius Aurelius Verus, with fhort curled hair, and a curled beard ; with the legend, imp. l. avrel. vervs. avc. And on the reverfe, a woman drefl'ed in a ftole, or long robe, with a globe in her right hand, and a cornucopia in her left j with the legend, pro v.

DEOR. T. p. II. COS. II.

It is worthy of remark, that in the Downs, in the north part of the parifh of Minfter, is one of the moft extenfive profpecls in the kingdom ; for you fee not only all this little ifland, and the fe- veral churches in it, except one, but have a dif- tant view of the two fpires of Reculver, the Ifle of Sheppey, the Nore, or mouth of the Thames, the coalt of EfTex, the Swale, the Britifh channel, the clifFs of Calais, the Downs and town of Deal, the bay and town of Sandwich, the fine ehampain country of Eafl: Kent, the fpires of Wodnefburg and Afh, the ruins of the ancient caftle of Rich- borough,

*^ A bESCRlPTION of

borough, the fine plains of Minfter, Afh, &c with the river Stour running between them, the iine and ftately tower of Canterbury cathedral. and a compafs of hills of a prodigious extent that terminate the view.

^ Sarre is eight miles eaft of Canterbury, but IS thinly mhabited on account of the unhealthi-

rll r M^ 'i!'- I' ^'''' ^^wever, a fair on the 14th of Oaober, for toys.

St. Peter's is alfo in this ifland, in the mid- way between Ramfgate and Margate ^ it is a member of the port of Dover, and has two fairs, on the 5th of April, and loth of July, for toys. 1 his village contains nothing worthy of notice but Its church, which is a neat ftrudure, and the fummit of Its tower, which has fix bells, com- mands as delightful and extenfive a profpe^ bv lea and land, as the imagination can form 3 hence this tower ferves as a fea-mark.

To the eaftward of the church, adjoining to the fea, IS a little vill called Bradstow, from the broadnefs of the place. In the way leading to the pier, IS eredled a ftone arch or portal, com- pofed of hewn ftone and flints, to which former- Jy were fixed ftrong gates, and a portcullis, to pre- vent any incurfions being made here by privateers and others, to plunder the inhabitants^ but thefe gates have long been deftroyed. The above-men- tioned pier is to the north-eaft of the gatewav, and is built with timber, fo as to form a harbour, in order to lay up the fifhing boats, and other fmall craft, which fail from hence to the North-Sea. For the fupport of this pier, the inhabitants of this parifh have decrees, authorized by the lord- , warden of the cinque-ports, by which they arc annually empowered to chufe two pier- wardens, whofe bufinefs is to look after the repairs of the pier, and colled the duties payable to it, A lit- tle

KENT. S9

tie above the gate juft mentioned was anciently a chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in which was her image, called our Lady of Broadftairs, which was held in fuch veneration, that the fhips, as they failed by, ufed to falute it, by lowering their top-fails.

Kilburne, in his furvey of Kent, fays, that near this place, " on the 9th of July, 1574, a mon- <' ftrous fifh Ihot himfelf on Ihore on a little fand *« called Fifhnefs, where, for want of water, he «' died the next day, before which time his roar- <« ing was heard above a mile. His length was " twenty-two yards, the nether jaw opening *' twelve feet J one of his eyes was more than a <' cart and fix horfes could draw ', a man flood <' upright in the place from whence his eye was <« taken ; the thicknefs from his back to the top *< of his belly (which lay upward) was fourteen «^ foot ; his tail of the fame breadth ; the diflance " between his eyes was twelve foot ; three men «' flood upright in his mouth ; fome of his ribs *' were fixteen foot long \ his tongue was fifteen *' foot long; his liver was two cart-loads j and a <' man might creep into his noflrils." Whatever abfurdities there are in this account, the reverend Mr. Lewis has tranfcribed it into his hiflory of the Ille of Thanet ; we therefore give it our read- ers, but without daring to vouch for the truth of any of the extraordinary circumflances related of this monfler.

A little farther to the northward is the North Foreland, fo called to diflinguifh it from South Foreland, fcated between Deal and Dover. It is a promontory at the utmofl extremity of the Ken- tifh fhore, that extends into the fea, and is fome- what higher than the neighbouring lands. X^pon it was formerly a houfe built of timber, lath, and plafler-workj with a large glafs-lantern on its

topa

90 y/ Description of

top, in which a light was kept to dire8: fhlps in the night to keep clear of Goodwin fands, which lie off this point, on which fliips are apt to ftrike, on account of their endeavouring to keep clear of this promontory. This houfe being, by fome ac- cident, burnt down, they for fome time made ufe of a kind of beacon, but about eighty years ago a flrong light-houfe, of an odagon form, was built of flint, on the top of which was an iron grate open to the air, in which they made a blazing fire of coals. About forty years ago, the top of this light-houfe was covered with a lantern, which had large fafh-lights ; but the failors complaining that thefe obftru6ted their feeing the light, particular- ly in hazy weather, the lantern was taken down. To the repair and maintenance of this light-houfe, every Britifh fhip which fails by this Foreland is obliged to pay two-pence a ton, and every fo- reigner four-pence.

At a little diftance from this light-houfe is a fmall point of land, called Watch-house Point, from a watch-houfe which formerly flood here for men to watch in time of war. Juft by are twa large banks of earth, called by the country peo- ple Hackendon, or Hackingdown-banks, which are fuppofed to be the graves of the Englifh and Danes killed in a battle fought here. The largeft of thefe banks is fuppofed to be that where the Danes were buried, and who are faid to have been de- feated. This battle was probably that fought by earl Alchere, and duke Wada, with the Danes, in the year 853, wherein the Danes were entirely routed, and great numbers of them flain. Tho* other hiftorians fay, that at firft the Englifh had the vi6iory, but at laft were defeated, and both their commanders were flain, and that this battle was fought fo near the fea, that many on both fides were pufhed into it and drowned.

In

KENT. '91

In a fmall valley juft by is a gate or way to the fea, made for the convenience of the fifhery, for- merly called by the name of Bartholomew, or BARTLEM-GATE,and frequently King's-gate; for king Charles the Second once landing here in his way by water from London to Dover, com- manded that it fhould be thus called. Here is a pleafant little village, chiefly confifting of the houfes of Hfhermen, who get their living here by fifhing, going ofF to (hips in diftrefs, or carrying them frefh provifions, beer, &c. when they pafs this way in their return from a voyage, which is called by the name of Foying. But of late it is pretty much deferted. The land here ancient- ly reached much farther into the fea than it does at prefent, above thirty acres in one place having been loft in the memory of man, and the fea ftill continuing to encreach upon it.

It ought not to be omitted, that North Fore- land is declared by ad: of parliament to be the moft fouthern part of the port of London, which extends north in a right line to a point, called the Nafe, on the eaft of Eflex, and all the towns or harbours between thefe places and London, both on the Kentifh and Eflex fhore, are called mem- bers of the port of London. As foon as any vef- fels have pafled from any of thefe ports beyond the North Foreland, they are faid to be in the open fea ; for if they proceed to the north, they enter the German ocean, and if to the fouth, the Britifli channel.

It is proper to obferve, that the North and South Forelands being the moft eafterly points in Kent, they fhelter the fea between them on the north and fouth, forming a tolerable good road for fhips, called the Downs ; for the Goodwin Sands, in other refpedls fo dangerous, at low wa- ter, break the force of the fea on the eaft and

fouth*

^2 A Description of

fouth-eaft ; yet when the fea blows wfth great violence at fouth-eaft, eaft by north, and eaft- no4"th-eaft, fliips are frequently driven from their anchors, and obliged to take fhelter, either in Sandwich bay, or Ramfgate harbour.

Goodwin fands extend from north to fouth, at the diftance of above two leagues from the (hore. Their length from the North Foreland, to the South Sand-head, over agalnft Walmar caftle, is near ten miles, and their breadth almoft two. " They confift, fays Mr. Lewis, of a more foft, *' fluid, porous, fpongious, and yet withal, te- ^' nacious matter, than the neighbouring fands, '< and confequently are of a more voracious and *' ingurgitating property; fo that fhould a firft *' rate man of war ftrike here, in a few days it *' would be fo wholly fwallowed up by thefe *« quick fands, as that no part of it would be .*« feen. And this is that which makes the run- *' ning on thefe fands fo much more perilous and *' dreadful, than ftriking on any of the other, *' which are harder and more folid, rugged and " rocky." Misfortunes of this kind frequently happen ; and the fifhermen on the coaft frequent- ly preferve the lives of the fhip-wrecked, at the extreme hazard of their own.

Ten miles to the northward of Sandwich, near the ifland of Thanet, is Reculver, which is feated by the fea nine miles north-eafl: of Can- terbury, but is now a very mean place, though it is remarkable for its antiquities. Its Roman name is Regulbium, and it was here that Severus, em- peror of Rome, built a caftle about the year 205, which he fortified againft the Britons. Here likewife Ethelbert, the firft Chriftian king of Kent, after having given his palace at Canterbu- ry to Auguftine, retired and built a palace for himfelf, and his fucceflbrs, the compafs of which

may

KENT. 93

way be ftill traced out, by the ruins of its walls. Several Roman vefTels, cillerns and cellars, befides Villi: numbers of coins, rings, bracelets, and other curious antiquities, have been difcovered here, which ferve to fhew, that it was anciently a very confiderable place ; but the fea has carried away the greateft part of the ground upon which the town flood. In the year 669, Egbert, king of Kent, gave one Bafle fome lands in this parifh, in which he built a monaftery, dedicated to the Vir- gin Mary. In the year 944, it was annexed to Chrift church in Canterbury, by the grant of king Eadred, when the abbot and monks were probably removed, yet it feems to have been a church of confiderable note, under the government of a dean about the year 1030.

Deal is fituated X&ven miles fouth by eaft of Sandwich, feven north by eaft of Dover, and feventy-five eaft by fouth of London. It is called Dola by Julius Caefar, who is fup- pofed to have landed here in his fecond defcent upon Britain. The fea fhore is in this place thrown up into long ridges like ramparts, which fome fuppofed to have been formed by the wind, but which Camden imagines was the work of Julius Caefar, and intended to ferve as a kind of naval camp ; for he tells us, that he was ten days and nights in forming fuch a camp for the recep- tion of his fliattered fleet, to fecure it both againft florms and the Britons, who made feveral unfuc- cefsful attempts upon his navy. To fupport this *conje6lure, Camden obferves, that the neighbour- ing inhabit^ijits call thefe ramparts Rome's work, which is as much as to fay, tlie work of the Ro- mans. Dr. Stukeley, however, fays, that it is in vain to expect a fight of thefe fea-camps, which, he obferves, have been many years abforbed by the oceari, that has long been exercifing its power,

and

54 ^Description of

and wafting away the land. Deal confifts as k were of two towns, the upper and more ancient^ which is feated about a mile from the fea : in this ftands the old church, called St, Leonard's. The lower town, which is much the largeft, lies on the edge of the fea, and has a new church erected in it. In fhort, both together form a large, handfome, fea-port town, which is a member of the port of Sandwich. Here fhips bound to and from London to foreign parts, by the way of the channel, generally flop*, if homeward bound, to difpatch letters, notifying their arrival, and to fet paffengers afhore ; but if outward bound, they take in frefli provifions, and receive letters from their owners and friends. It has about a thoufand brick houfes, which form three long, but narrow llreets. The inhabitants amount to about four thoufand five hundred, but as no manufacture is carried on here, the trad«s-people chiefly depend on the fea-faring people who refort hither. This town is governed by a mayor and jurats, and de- fended by a caftle built by Henry the Eighth, of which we have given an engraved view ; and near it are two others. It has two fairs, held on the 5th of April, and the loth of October, for cat- tle and pedlars-ware.

Sandown Caftle ftands upon the fea-fhore, about a mile to the north of Deal, and was built by Henry the Eighth. It confifts of four lunettes, of a very thick ftone arch-work, with many port- holes for great guns, and in the middle is a no- ble round tower, with a ciftern at the top, and underneath it an arched cavern, bomb proof. The whole ftruClure is furrounded by a fofs, or trench, over which is a draw-bridge. This fortrefs, with Deal and Walmer caftles, are under the govern- ment of the lord-warden of the cinque-ports.

Walmer Caftle is about two miles fouth of

the

Tb/.V^a.^.1 .

KENT. 95

the former, and like that ftands on the fea-fliore, notfr.r from Deal. It was alfo built in the time of Henry the Eighth, and was much fuch a build- ing as the former j only in the middle, there are more elegant apartments ereded in the moderli tafte. This was the (eat of the noble family of Crioll, from king Henry the Third's time, till king Henry the Fifth's reign, when Sir Thomas Kerioll, or Crioll, dying without iilue male, one of his daughters and co-heireffes marying Sir John Fogge, knight, it came to him, and by Anne, one of the daughters and co-heirefies of Sir Tho- mas Fogge, ferjeant-porter of Calais, it pafTed to William Scot, Efq; and next to Henry If- ham, Efqj whofe fon, Edward, deceafing in the reign of queen Elizabeth, by Mary his fole daughter andheirefs, it came to Sir John Perkins, knight, whofe daughter Mary, by mar- riage, conveyed it to Richard lord Minfhall, who in 1627 fold it to James Hugefon of Linfted, Efq; in whofe family it now remains. There are lines drawn between the two laft- mentioned caf- tles, and that of Deal, and at proper intervals are round baftions, with a ditch and parapet of earth, where cannon may be planted. Dr. Stukeley fup- pofes, that Caefar landed between Walmer Caf- tle and Deal, on his firft expedition, it being the firft place where thefhore can beafcended north of Dover, and exactly anfwers his affigned diftance of eight miles. It is probable, that in his fecond expedition, when he came with many more fhips, and had a more perfe61: knowledge of the country, he went a little farther in the Downs, to the place where Deal now flands. Since the reign of Henry the Eighth, the fea has carried off the ef- planades of the three caftles, and one half of two of the three circular forts. But of late years the providential heaping together of pebbles, has

in

96 y^ Description */

in fome meafure put a flop to the encroachments of the feaj and it is furprizing, to fee how they have gradually filled up thefe foiTes and trenches.

Ten miles to the weft of Deal, in the road to Canterbury, is Nonnington, where, at the feat

of Plumptree, Efq; there was ftanding in Au-

guft, 1764, a large oak, nick-named the fretful oak, fuppofed to be the largeft that ever grew in England, as it meafured four rods, or twenty-two yards in girth.

Dover is fituated ten miles to the fouth-eaft of Deal, fifteen miles fouth-weft of Canterbury, and feventy-one fouth-eaft by eaft of London. It is fuppofed to derive its name from Difyrrha, which in the Britifli tongue, fignifies a fteep place, whence it was called by the Saxons Dofra, and by Antoni- nus, in his Itenerary, Dubris. It ftands in a moft romantic fituation, in a great valley, under a femicircular range of chalky cliffs, which form a kind of bay or harbour, and is the only place about this coaft where the water is admitted with- in the cliffs. Thefe rife to an amazing height, and nothing can be more exa6t, and at the fame time more beautiful, than the defcription of them which Shakefpear, in his king Lear, has put in- to the mouth of Edgar,

. . How fearful

And dizzy 'tis to call one's eye fo low ! The crows and choughs, that wing the midway air. Shew fcarcefo big as beetles. Halfway down Hangs one that gathers famphire, dreadful trade I The fifiiermen that walk upon the beach Appe'ir like mice j and yon tall anchoring bark Diminifh'd to her cock, her cock a buoy Almoft too fmall for fight. The murmuring furge Cannot be heard fo high. I'll look no more. Left my brain turn, and the diforder make me Topple dov/n headlong. The

KENT. 97

The famphire gathered on thefe rocks is pic- kled, and fent to Canterbury, and from thence to London, and different parts of England. As Dover is fituated in the narroweft part of the chan- nel that divides England from France, the clifts of Calais on the French coaft, which are onlv thirty miles ^iftant, may be feen from thofe of Dover. By the town a brook difcharges itfelf in- to the fea, which formerly came a good way higher up, forming a large harbour, fo that anchors have been found above the town.

The Roman city was to the fouth of the river, and Watling-ftreet enters it at Bigging-gate, extending direclly from Canterbury, where it is very pcrfecl. 7^ his city W3.S an oblong fquare» furrounded by a wall, through which were ten gates ; and fome remains of the walls are fiili vi- fibie. It had fornierly feven churches beilt in a very antique tafte. But there are only two remain- ing, St. James's, where the courts of the cinque ports are held, and St. Mary's. Among the others, that of St. Martin was collegiate, and founded by Wightred, king of Kent. Its ruins have a venerable appearance, and the eafl end feems to be terminated in three femicircular works i hut the main body is built in the form of a crols. There is fome part of a priory remaining, which is now a farm-houfe : this priory had twenty-tv/o canons, but it was fuppreffed in the time of Hen- ry the Firft, and the lands given to the archbifliop of Canterbury. William Corbeil, then archbi- jfhop, began to build .a new minder, which was finifhed by Theobald, his fucceflbr, in the reion of Henry the Second, who filled it with a prior and twelve Bcnedicline monks, who were fubor- dinate to the monaftery of Chrift church in Can- terbury. At the diiTolutioa, their revenues were Vol. V. E valued

^3 A Description of

valued at 17c 1. a year, byDugdale; but at 232 1,'

^Thrhofpital of St. Mary, alfo called Maifon (]- Dieu, or the Houfe of God, ftood at the end of Dover, and was founded by Hubert de Burgo, earl of Kent, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, for the fupport of poor people and travellers that came there. It was valued at the diflolution at 160 1 a year. This ftruaure Is now turned to a ftore-houfe, and Dr. Stukeley informs us, that here the knights templars lodged, when they came into or went out of the kingdom.

Here was alfo an hofpital for leprous perlons, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, which was begun about the year 1141, "PO" the folicitation of Ul- bern and Godwin, two monks of St. Martms, who fubieaed it to the difpofal of their prior.

The 'town is 2;overned by a mayor, alliltants, and commonaltyl and being one of the cinque ports, is, in other refpeas, fubjea to the fame iurirdiaion as the reft. In its profpenty it had twenty-one wards, each of which furniflied a fhip for the fervice of the crown, and maintained it forty days at the cxpence of the inhabitants j m confideration of which fervice they had a li- cenfed packet boat ; and, according to the town records, the fare to France was thus fett ed in the rdrn of Richard the Second ; for a fingle paflen-- aci" in the fummer time, fix pence, and a. ftii^ fine, in winter; for a horfe in fummer, one (hil- rin? and fix pence, and in winter two fliiHings. Th^'e towns which are at prefent auxiliaries to Do- ver, as a cinque port, and liable to contribute to the expence of fuch fervice as may be required upon any emergency, are Birchington, ot. John s, and St. Peter's, three fmall towns in the ifle ot Thanet, Ringwold, near Dover, Feyerfliam, and Foikilonc. ^j^^

KENT. 99

The pier that forms the harbour of Dover is a great and coftly work, on which king Henry the Eighth expended 80,000 1. It was begun in the year 1533, and was compofed of two rows of main pofts, and gr^at piles of twenty-five ortvi^enty- fix feet in Ieno;th, which were let into holes hewn in the rocks, and fome were pointed with iron, and driven down into the chalky ground. 'The pofts and piles were fattened together with iro!i bands, bolts, &c. and the interftices filled with great chalk firones, &c. over which were placed great blocks of ftone of tvv'enty tons each, brought thither by w^ter from Folkftone, on tim- ber frames fupported by empty cafl-is. The har- bour has fince been repaired and altered, till it v/as brought to its prefent ftate, and for its fupport there are certain cuftomary duties on all goods^ ^c. exported or imported : yet it is at prefent on- ly fit to receive fmali veflels, and tbofe only at high water. Above the piers, is a fort with four baftions of a modern date. The broad beach, M'hich lies at the mouth of the great valley, and was the harbour in Julius Caefar's time, is a very- delightful fpot. On the fhore there are fea plants, and many curious fofiils and (hells, and alfo a long itrect, called Snare-gate, from the tremendous j-ocks of chalk hanging diredlly over the houfes. On the famm.it of the clifi' are the remains of a caflle, faid to have been, begun by Julius Caefar, and finiflied by Claudius. It takes up thirty acres of ground, and Is an amazing collection of walls, -ditches., battleinents, mounts, and all imaginable. -contrivances to render it impregnable after the old manner. The walls are ftill {landing, tho' m.oil of the works are defiroyed. There are alio the re- mains of a royal palace and chapel, with ftables and other offices, the ruins of which ihsw the building to liave been very magnificent. Of all E 2 thefe

100 A Description of

thefe ruins we have given an engraved view. One part of the fortification that ftill remains, is a cir- cular work, in which is an old church, faid to have been built by Lucius, the firft Chriftian king in Britain, with fome fragments of the Roman buildings that had fallen into ruins. It is in the form of a crofs, with a fquare tower in the mid- dle ; but the windows feem to be of a much later date than the reft of the ftruclure. This caftle is fupplied with water by a well of a cylindrical figure, three hundred and fixty feet deep, lined to the bottom with free-ftone, and faid to have been the work of Julius Caefar. The v/iUer of this well is raifed by a wheel, which receives a man, who turns it by his own weight. This caftle was ta- ken by William the Conqueror in 1067 ; and oa its being befieged by king Stephen's queen, the go- vernor furrendered it to her. In 1228, it was deli- vered up to Philip, earl of Flanders, but after his departure king Henry the Third granted this place to Hubert de Burgh, earl of Kent. The barons of the cinque ports in 1266, having by ftratagein gotten poifeiHon of the tower within the caftle, they defended it till king Henry the Third ajid his fon prince Edward appearing before it, they fubmitted. It was by the l^nglifh, as well as fo- reigners, called the Lock and Key of England, and was of fuch importance, that when the dauphin of P^-ance was aflifting king John againft the ba- rons, the French king enquiring where his fon was, it was anfwercd, at Stamford ; he replied, what 1 has he not got Dover caftle, being an- swered, No. *' Then, faid he, by the arm of St. *' James; my fon has not one foot In England." This noble and memorable fortrefs, which has feveral times faved the kingdom from conqueft or (lavcrv, is now become the prey of the people to whorri it belongs. In queeu Anne's time, there

were

Vol. V-pa.joo.

KENT. lot

were kept here one thoufand five hundred pri- foners ; but about fifty years ago, the timbers and floors were carried away, fo that it is now hardly lit for that ufe. In this caftle are two ve- ry old keys, and abrafs trumpet, faid to have been kept here ever fince the time of Julius Caefar. There is here alfo a brafs gun, which is faid to be the longed in the world. It is of the moft curi- ous workmanfliip, and was prefented by the ftates of Utrecht to queen Elizabeth, and is humorouf- ly called her Pocket Piftol. It is twenty-two feet long, requires fiftegi pounds of powder, and is faid to carry a ball feven miles ; but the greatcit curiofity of this place is the pharos or Roman watch tower, {landing at the weft end of the church, for notwithftanding it is fo much disfi- gured bv daubino; it with mortar, cafmg; and mending, the original intention for which it was formed may be eafily difcerned. Its defjgn is fimple, and yet is extremely well contrived. The bafe is octagonal without, within a fquare, but the fides of the fquare and o(Slagon being equal, that is, fifteen feet, this reduces the thicknefs of the wall to ten feet. It was much higher than it is at prefent, and grows narrower by degrees to the top. Upon four of the fides there are narrow windows, handfomely turned with a femicircular arch of Roman bricks, fix feet high. 7'he door is on the eaft fide, about fix feet wide, and very- well turned over head, with an arch made of coarfe P.oman bricks and ftone alternate! y-j and the height is fourteen feet. Upon a rock over againft the caftle, oppodte to this tower, are the re- mains of another pharos, called Bredenftone, and by the vulgar, the Devil's Drop, from the ftrength of the mortar; and here the conftable of the caf- tle, who is always lord warden of the cinque ports, is fworn into his office.

E 3 In

J ©2- ^^Description of

In time of peace, the packet- boats, that pafs' between this tawn and Calais in Fiance, are ila- tioned here. The town fends two members ta parliament, and has two markets, which are held on Wednefdays and Saturdays, with one fair^ Isept on the 22d of November, for wearing appa.^^ lel and habeidafliery.

White Kennet, a learned writer and an emi- nent prelate in the eighteenth century, was born Auguft ic, 1660, at -Dover, and educated at Weftminfter-fchool and Edmund hall in Oxford, Having finifhed his ftudies atibe univerfity, where he d i it ingui filed hirafclf equally by his genius and his application, he was prefented, in 1685, to the \icarage of Amerfden inOxfordihire ; after which lie became fuccefTively principal of Edmund hall,. letSlor of Shottefbrook in Berkfhire, archdeacon of Huntingdon, chaplain in ordmary to queea Anne, dean of i^eterborough, and, in 17 18, was confecratcd bifhop of that fee. Being fond of ibooting in his younger years, he had the misfor- tune to be v^xui^id-;;d in the forehead by the burft- ing of his gun ; and though the wound was per- fectly cured, yet he v/ore ever after a piece of black velvet to cover the fear. This mark was employed to diftinguifh his perfon on a very par- ticular occafion. He had, it feems, by his lenity and moderation, incurred the refentment of the high church party; and Dr. Welton, re<Slor oi Whitechapel, took the following method to ex- pofe him, while he was dean of Peterborough. In the altar piece of Whitechapel church, which, was intended for a reprefentation of Chrift and- his twelve apoflles eating the pafTover and laft fuppcr, Judas, the traytor, was drawn fitting in an elbow chair, dreffed in a black garment, be- tween a gown and a cloak, with a black fcarf and a white band, a ihox£ wig> and a mark on his fore-^

head

KENT. IC3

Iiea<3 between a lock and a patch, and with a great deal of the air of Dr. Kennet's face. The ori- ginal fketch, it is laid, was defigned for bimop Burnet ; but the painter being apprehenfive of an action of Scandalu?n magnatum^ leave was given him to drop the biiliop, and make the dean. Mul- titudes of people flocked daily to the church to be- hold this curious picture, the meaning of v/hich could hardly be miftaken \ but it v.-as efleemed fo infolent a contempt of all that is facred, that, up- on :be complaint of others (for the dean himfelf never faw it, nor feemed to regard it) the bifliop of London obliged thofe, who had fet it up, to take it down. Biiliop Kennet died at his houfe in Weftminfter on the 19th of December, 17 28. He was a keen advocate for the revolution, and for revolution principles ; and was wont to fay, that when he could no longer preach or write, he would chearfully fight in defence of that caufe* fiis works are numerous, and greatly admired. The principal are, his Parochial Antiquities \ his Cafe of Impropriations ; the iliird volume of the Comphie Hijhry of England -^ A true Jnfiver ta Dr. oachevereWs Sermon^ &c. He founded an antiquarian, and hiflorical library at Peterborough ; and projected a fcheme for laying the foundatioa of an American library.

Philip Yorke, lord high chancellor of Eng- land, one of the moft learned lawyers, and nioll: eminent ftatefmen, that ever appeared in this kingdom, was the fon of a reputable attorney c f this town, and was born here December the ill, 1690. Being intended, from the beginning:, for the profefTion of the law, he v^^as put under the tuition of the famous ferjeant Salkeld ; and en- tering a member of the Middle Temple, Lon- don, was called to the bar in 17 14. Here he fooa rendered himfelf fo remarkable for his abilities, E 4 as

J04. A Description of

rs to attra£l the attention of his grace, the ^wVt cf Newcaflle, at whofe recommendation, in 1718, he v/as chofen member of parliament for the bo- rough of Lewes in SufTex. Before he had arrived at the thirtieth year of his age, he was promoted to the office of foUicitor-general, and gratified \\'ith the honour of knighthood. About four years after, he fucceeded to the office of attorney-gene- ral ; and 1733, was appointed lord chief juftice of the King's Bench, and created a peer, by the title of lord Hardwicke, baron of Hardwicke, in the iiounty of GJoucefter. Upon the death of lord Tal- bot in 1737 he was declared lord high chancellor of England ; and with what integrity and ability he diicharged that importantoffice,appears remarkably from this circumftance, that during the fpace of al- moft twenty years, that he prefided in the court of Chancery, which was longer than any of his pre- deceffors, except Egerton, had done, only three cf his decrees were appealed from, and even thefe were afterwards confirmed by the Houfe of Lords. In 1749 he was ele6ted high fteward of the univerfity of Cambridge; and, in 17545 his majefty advanced him, as a reward of his merit, to the rank of an earl, with the title of vifcount RoyRon, and earl of Hardwicke. At length, after having held the great feal, with univerfal applaufe, till the month of November, 1756, he thought proper to refign it, on account of fome difagreement which he had with the other mini- fters. But though he thus retired from public bu- fmefs, he ftill continued to affift the government with his council and influence ; and having lived to fee all hij children happily fettled, he breathed his lafl on the 6th of March, 1764, and was in- terred near his wife at Wimple in Cambridge- ihire.

Six

KENT. iP5

Six miles to the eaftward of" Dover is Folk* STONE, a town feated on the fca-coaft, four miles north-eaft of Hive, and fixty-nine from London. It is a member of the cinque-port of Dover, ar^,d is governed by a mayor, jurats and commonalty. From Dover to this place the clifF is exceeding- high, but is here a kind of rock, and not chalk. A plentiful fpring runs thro' the town, and near a church upon the fea-fide is a fquare plain. It has a harbour for fmall fhips, and feveral hundred fifhing boats belong to it, which are employed at the feafon in catching mackrel for London. A- bout Michaelmas the Foikflone barks, with others from the fhore of Suflex, fail to the coafl of Suf- folk and Norfolk, in order to catch herrings for the merchants of Yarmouth and Leoftcff. The market is on Thurfdays, and there is a fair on the 28th of June, for pedlars ware.

Folkllone appears to have been a confiderable town in the time of the Romans, from the many Roman coins and bricks frequently found there. It alfo Fiourilhed under the Saxons, when it had five churches, but four of them were dcilroyed by earl Godwin and his fons, in the reign of Ed- vv?r-d the Confeflbr. At the fouth part of the town was a caille, built by Ladbald, king of Kent, above a thoufand years ago, which falling to decay about the year 1068, a fort was eredted upon the fame foundation, out of the materials of the old cafllej and the ruins of it are lliil vifible. Upon a hill called Caftle-h;ll, was a watch tower, now in ruins, and two pieces of an old wall hang over a terrible cliit. T. his is fuppofed to be the remains of fome Roman work, i^mony; the an- tiquitics feen here are fome old guns, one of v/hich is of iron, and of a very odd cali. It feems to have been made in the reign of Plenry the H.ighth, E 5 Eanfwithaj

2 00- yf Desci^iption j/"

Eanfv/ifha, the daughter of Eadbald, king of Kent, being fond of a religious life, her father "built here, about the year 630, a nunnery for her life, and that of ber companions. It was dedi- cated to St. Peter, and was bu-ilt on the fhore 5 %ut, according to fome authors, it was at length fwallowed up by the fea ; others, however, fay it was deftroyed by the Danes, and afterwards grant- ed by king Ethelftan, in 927, to Chrift church in Canterbury. After the conqueft, Nigell de Mune- well, lord of Folkftone,- laid the foundation of a jiew one in another part of the town, which wa^- fini{hed by William Abrenaris, who married his- <3aughter and heirefs, and it was given to the ab- bot and convent of Lonely in Normandy, toge- ther with the church of St. Mary, and St. Ean- fwidc in this place ; upon which fome Benedi£lin^ monks were fcnt from thence and placed herev This alien priory had the fate of the other houfes of the fame kind, it being fuppreffed by Henr^ the Fifth, during his war with France, and fell into the king's hands, but was afterwards made denifon, and continued till the diflblution, when it was valued at 41 L 15 s. 10 d. a year,

William Harvey, a celebrated phyfician, who firft difcovered the circulation of the blood, was- born at Folkftone, on the 2d of April, 1578'. After purfuing the ftudy of phyfic about live years at Cambridge, he travelled to Padua in Italyy where he profecuted the fame (tudy, and took the degree of do<5tor in that faculty, as he did likewife at Cambridge, upon his return to his na- tive country. In 1607, he was elected fellow of the college of phyficians ; and, about eight years after, was chofen reader of the anatomy and fur- gery leclure, founded by Dr. Richard CaldwalL In the courfe of thefe ledtures, he firft opened his grand difcovery Of the firculaticn of ih bloody which

he

KENT. 107

he afterwards digefted into a regular treatiTe. He was made phyfician to king James the Firft, and king Charles the Firft; and in 1651, publifhed his treatife on the Generation of Animals. He died in June, 1657 ; and having no children, left his eftate to the college of phyficians, where a commemoratory fpeech in Latin in honour to his memory, and that of their other benefa£lors, is annually delivered on the i8th of October.

Near Folkftone is Sangate Caftle, which was built by Henry the Eighth, much in the fame tafte, as thofe of Deal, Sandown, and VV^almar, and is exceeding ftrong. In this caftle queen Eli- zabeth lodged in 1588, on herprogrefs into Kent, to take care of the defence of the coaft.

Elham is a fmall town, about five miles to the north- weft of Folkftone. The earl of Ew, a Norman, had once a magnificent feat here, of which there are no remains. Here is a market on Mondays, and four fairs, held on Palm-Monday, Eafter-Monday, Whitfun-Monday, and Odi-ober 10, for horfes, other cattle and pedlars goods.

HiTHE, Hythe, or HiTH, is fituated fix miles to the fouth-weft of Elham, and fixty-nine fouth-eaft by eaft of London. It is one of the Cinque-ports, and is governed by a mayor, jurats, and commonalty, who with the freemen ele6t two members to ferve in parliament. It had once five churches ; but having feveral times fuffered great lofTes they are now reduced to one. It owed its rife and profperity to the decay of the neighbour- ing towns of Lime and Weft Hithe, v.'hofe har- bours were choaked up with fand, and that of this town has undergone the fame fate, fo that it is now almoft ufelefs, and fcarcely deferves the name of a port. Here are two hofpitals, thofe of St. John and St. Bartholomew, both under the go- vernment

io8 A Description of

vernment of the mayor and jurats : here is alfo a charity-fchool for thirty boys. In a vault under the church is a remarkable pile of bones placed in a regular manner, with an infcription, which fays,, they are the remains of the Danifh foldiers killed in a battle near this place before the Norman con- queft. Hithe has a market on Saturdays, and two fairs, held on the loth of July, and the ift of December, for horfes, and other cattle, fhoes^ clothiers and pedlars goods.

The misfortunes this town has fufFered were very dreadful ; in the reign of Henry the Fourth,, moft of the inhabitants were carried olF by a pef- tilence, which was fucceeded by a fire that con- fumed two hundred houfes. Soon after five of the fhips which this town, as a Cinque-port, was obliged to fit out for the fervice of the crown, were funk at fea, and a hundred men drowned,. The furviving inhabitants, difpirited by thefe ca- lamities, refolved to leave the place 5 but the king encouraged them to ftay, by giving them a tem- porary releafe from the fervice due from the town as a Cinque-port. On the 6th of April, 1580, an earthquake rung the bells, and damaged many houfes; and in April, 1739, while ten perfons were waiting in the church porch for the keys, in order to afcend the fteeple, for the fake of the view it afForded, it fell down with fix bells in it j. but providentially nobody was hurt.

About a mile north-weft of Hithe is Salt- wood, a village that has a caftle, which the learned Dr. Gale fuppofes was originally built by the Romans, and that feveral Roman antiquities have been found in its neighbourhood. Jn the year 1036 Halden, a noble Saxon, gave it to Egelnoth, archbifliop of Canterbury, and it was fnjoycd by his fucceffors. Archbifhop Courtney

enlarged

1^/J^pa.Jo^

KENT. 1C9

enlarged and beautified it ; but Cranmer exchang- ing it with Henry the Eighth for other lands, it was given by Edward the Sixth to John Dudley, earl of Warwick ; but it foon after reverting again to the crown, that king in 1550 granted it to Ed- ward lord Clinton, from whom it came through feveral hands to Sir Brooke Bridges, Bart. Of this ancient ftrudure we have given an engraved view.

About three miles to the weftward of Hithe 13 Lime, or Limne, where, upon the fide of a hill, are the remains of an ancient caftle, v/hich included ten acres of land, and the ruins of a Roman wall may be feen almoft to the bottom of the hill. This is a noble piece of antiquity, and there feems no doubt of its being the Portus Le- manis of the Romans, though its port is at pre- fent, as well as thofe of its two neighbouring towns, Eaft and Weft Hithe, choaked up with fand ; yet it has ftill the horn and mace, with other tokens of its ancient grandeur. The re- mains of this Roman work hang, as it were, up- on the fide of the hill, for its defcent is pretty fteep, forming a kind of irregular fquare, v/ithout a ditch. A brook, rifing from a rock to the weft of the church, runs on the eaft fide of the wall, then paftes through it, and flows along its lowermoft edge by a farm houfe at the bottom. The compofition of the walls appears to be the fame as thofe at Richborough. lliey are twelve feet thick, and in fome places upwards of ten feet high. The real harbour is thought by fome to have been fomewhat to the eaftward, as was pro- bably the ancient town belonging to it, old foun- dations being frequently difcovered under the fide of the hill, and feveral Roman coins, and other antiquities, have beenfound in its neighbourhood ;

befides.

no ^Description <?/

befides, a field adjoining to the church yard of Lime, is called the Northern Town, nor do the inhabitants know that it ever had any other name. Dr. Stukeley informs us, that between Canterbury and this place, the way is laid out in a ftrait line, on afolid rock of flone, from which the town feems to derive its name, Lha in the Britifh tongue fignifying a way, and Maen 3. ftone. This town was formerly the place where the lord- warden of the Cinque-ports was fworn, upon his entering on his office.

As we have here taken notice of fo many caf- tles feated near each other, we fhall now defcribe one at fome diftance to the weft : this is Hever Caftle, which is faid to have been built in the reio^n of Edward the Third, by Thomas de He- ver. Joan, one of the daughters and co-heirefTes of William, that gentleman's fon, carried this caftle by marriage to Reginald Cobham, of whofe family it was afterwards purchafed by Geofrey Boleyn, whofe fon George, vifcount Rochford, being attainted of treafon, it was forfeited to the crown, in the reign of king Henry the Eighth. Here Anna Boleyn lived, when king Henry court- ed her, and here queen Anne of Cleves refided for fome time after her divorce. At length king James the Firft granted it to Sir Edward Wald- grave, and James lord Waldgrave, his defcen- dant, conveyed it to Sir William Humfreys, Bart, lord mayor of London, whofe fon lately enjoyed it. Of this ftru6ture, which is ve* ry extenfive, we have caufed a view to be en- graved.

A little to the fouth of Lime is Rumney- Marsh, a tra6t of land in the fouth-eaft part of the country, about twenty miles long, and eight broaij including the adjacent marfhes of Wal-

ham

Tb/T.pajio.

KENT. iir

ham zn6 Culford, and is faid to contain betv/een forty and fifty thoufand acres of land. This trail is remarkable for the devaftations made in it by^ the Tea in^ the reign of king Edward the Firfl:, when whole villages, with their inkabitants, were deltroyed, a confiderable river called the Rother,. removed from its ufualcourfe, and a pafTage open- ed for it nearer to Rye in Suflex, through, which it flows at this day. Thefe marfhes, however, at preiervt afford the richefl: paftures in England, which feed vaft numbers of fheep and herds of black cattle, fent hither from other parts. The fheep are faid to be larger than thofe of Leicef- terfhire and Lincolnfliire, and the oxen, the largeil in England. This marfh is the place from whence the Owlers have for many ages exported our wool to France. Some think it was once covered with the fea, and it is certain, that the air is very un- wholefome, for which reafon it is but thinly peo- pled. It has two towns, and nineteen parifhes, which were incoporated by Edward the Fourth, . by the name of a bailiff, twenty-four jurats, and the commonalty of Rumney marfh. They have a court every three weeks, for all caufes and ac- tions ; and a power to choofe four juft ices yearly^ from among themfelves, befrdes the bailiff. They have feveral other privileges, as well as exemp- tions, which no other place in England enjoys. In this marfh great trees are often found, lying at their length under ground, they are as black as ebony ; but fit for feveral ufes when dried.

Old Rumney, which is fituated about twelve miles to the fouth-weft of Hithe, was anciently a confiderable place, particalarly in the reign of Edward the Confeffor; for earl Godwin came into the harbour, and carried away feveral fhips then riding there. The fea has fmce with- diawn itfelf, and coufequently the harbour was

deferted^

Ill A Description of

deferted, and a new one made about a mile and a half diftant, fince called New Rumney. This is thought to have happened before the Conqueror's time, becaufe we find in Dome's-day book, that New Rumney was then a confiderable town and port. From this time Old Rumney began to be negle<5led, and the New was made one of the^^ cinque-ports.

New Rumney was at firft incorporated by the name of the jurats and commonalty of that town, but it is at prefent governed by j^ mayor, jurats and commonalty, and the mayor is chofeii on Lady-day. This town was in a flourifhing condition in the reign of William the Conqueror ^ for it had then twelve wards, five parifhes, an hof- pital for the ficic, and a priory. It had alfo a good harbour on the weft fide, but the terrible inundation from the fea we have juft mentioned, fpoiled the haven. The two great meetings for all the cinque-ports, are flill held here, and the members belonging to this port, are Old Rumney, Bromehlll, Orlafton and Dangynefs, New Rum- ney has a market on Saturdays, and a fair on the 2iftof Auguft, for pedlars goods. An hofpital for leprous perfons was anciently founded in this town by Adam de Chering, in the time of Bald" win, archbifhop of Canterbury, and dedicated to St. Stephen, and St. Thomas of Bccket, but it being decayed and forfaken in the year 1363, John Fraimcys, then patron, re-eflablifned a mafter and one prieft, fomewhat in the manner of a chantry, which in 148 r, was annexed to St. Ivlary Mag- dalen's college in Oxford. The church of St. Nicholas .m thii* town, with the chapel annexed to it, and fome other churches in Kent, being given to a foreign abbey named Pountney ; here was placed a cell of monks, which belonged to that abbey ^ but upon the fuppreffion of thefe

alien

KENT. J13

alien priories, king Henry the Sixth gave it t© All Souls college in Oxford.

Lydd, or LiDD, was thus called by the Saxons from the Latin words Littus, the fhore, alluding to its fituation near the fouth-coaft of Rumney Marfli. It is fituated three miles to the fouth- ward of Rumney, and is a populous town, incor- porated by the name of a bailiff, jurats, and com* monalty •, and, as hath been already mentioned, is a member of the cinque-port of Rumney. On the beach near Stone-end, at the eaft fide of this pariih, is what the inhabitants call the tomb of St. Crifpin and Crifpianus, who are fait! to have been buried here. This town has a market on Thurfdays, and a fair on the 24th of July, fou pedlars goods.

Erookland is a village in Rumney Marfh,. about three miles weft of Rumney, and has a fair en the firft of i^uguft, for pedlars goods.

Five miles to the weft of Old Rumney is Ap- PLEDORE, a town feated on the river Rother, about five miles from its influx into Rye ha- ven. In the reign of king Alfred, the Danes, after plundering the coafts of France, landed in England, and furprized a fmall caftle here ; but thinking it not fufficient for their defence, pulled it down, and erected a new one ; but king Alfred marching againft them, foon obliged them to ac- cept conditions of peace, and depart the country. The town has a market on Tuefdays, and a fair on the 22d of July, for cattle and pedlars ware.

Warehorn, a village about tv/o miles north- eaft of Appledore, was anciently part of the jurif- di6lion of that church, and was given to the monks ofChrift church, Canterbury, for their clothing. It fo continued till the reign of Henry the Eighth, who made it part of bis revenue, but now it be- longs to the earl of Thanet, as well as the other

part

114 A Description of

part that was In lay hands. There is one fair kepi^ Lere, on 06icber 2 for horfes, cattle and pedlars goods.

The Ifleof OxNEY, which lies to the fouth- wei!: of Appledore, contains two or three villages, namely Whiterfham, which anciently belonged to the abbey of Chrift church Canterbury ; but at length the revenues pafTed into the family of Al- fbrd. There is one fair kept here on May i, for pedlars ware. Stone -is another village in this ifland, which anciently belonged to the monks of Chrift church in Canterbury, but now to the dean and chapter. Near the fide of the marfli, at a place called Apdale, are the ruins of a great flone building, fuppofed by fome to have been a caftle, and by others aftore-houfe for merchants.

Tenterden is about fix miles north-eaft of Appledore, nine miles north by weft of Rye, and fixty foutb-eaft of London. It is a member of the cinque port of Rye, to which it was annexed i/i the reign of king Henry the Sixth, and is an ancient borough governed by a mayor and jurats, the mayor being annually chofen in the town-hall, It has a church and feveral meeting-houfes. The fteeple of the church is remarkably lofty, and is here faid to have occafioned Goodwin fands, which lying low were defended, from the fea by a great wall that required conftant care to uphold itj but being afterwards given to St. Auftin's monaftery at Canterbury, the abbot neglecting the wall while he was taken up in building this fteeple, the fea broke in, and overflowed the land. There ~is here a free-fchool founded by Mr. H.ayman and WiU liam Marftiall about the year 1521; whorgavciol* a year for the fupport of a fchqol-mafter. The town has a market on Fridays, and a fair on the ^Ux of May, for cattle and pedlars- goods*

Cran*

KEN T. 115

Cranbrookl is fituated in the woody parts of this county, about fix miles to the eaftward of Tcnterden, and fifty-four fouth-eaft of London. In this place was the firft woollen manufadure in this kingdom, erected by fome Flemings, who were encouraged to fettle here by king Edward th^ Third, in order to teach this manufacture to his fubjects : this trade has however long ago deferted this place. It has a market on Saturdays, and two fair?, held on the 30th of May, and the 29th of September, for horned cattle and horfes.

Newenden", a village about four miles fouth- eaft of Cranbrook, is, in Camden's opinion^ built in the place, called by the Noticia of Anto- ninus, Enderida, and by the ancient Britons Caer Andred, but Horfley places that town at Eaftbourn. It has a fair on the firft of July, for pedlars goods.

Benenden, a village about a mile and a half- fouth-eaft of Cranbrook^ was formerly in the poffeilion of Godric, a Saxon, as appears from Dooomfday-book, but now the manor is in the hands of the family of the Wattfes. The fteeple ftands at fome diftance from the church, and is remarkable for its curious workmanftiip on the in- ftde. It is very high and has a fine fpire. Here is a fair on May 15, for horfes and cattle.

Sandhurst is a village three miles fouth of Cranbrook. The manor was granted by king Offa, to Chrift-church in Canterbury, in the year 791. Since that time it has pafled through diverfe hands, and was lately in the pofTeflionof Mr Downton, a juftice of peace in Middlefex. It has one fair on May 25? for cattle and pedlary.

Hawkhurst, a village three miles fouth-« weft of Cranbrook, was a dependant of the ma- nor of Wye, and is annexed to it, to hold of Sattci-abbey in SulTex, The inhabitants here

had

Ii6 A Descrip-tion of

had formerly a three weeks court, for all caufe* under forty {hillings ; but it was fupprelTed in the laft century. The parifh is very populous, and one of the largeft in the county. Here was an- ciently a market every Tuefday, which has been Jong difcontinued ; but there is ftill a place upon the green, called the Market-place, with fome old ihops about it. It has a fair on Auguft lO, for cattle and pedlary.

GouDHURsT is fituattd about four miles north- eall: of Cranbrook, in the road to Tunbridge, and has a market on Wednefdays, which was procu- red by Joan, widow of Roger de Bedgefbury, in the reign of Richard the Second, that family then being in pofleiTion of the manor. The market was formerly held in the flat part of the town ; but about a hundred years fmce, it was removed to the top of the hill, near the church-yard, as alfo was the fair, kept on Auguft 26, for pedlars goods. T^he church dedicated to St. Mary ftood upon a hill, and had a very large and tall fpire,, which was fet on fire by lightening in 1637, and five large bells were melted, on which it became neceifary to take down the fteeple, which was lof- ty and of ftone. A brief was granted for re- building it, but the fmall wooden fteeple haftily fixed on the top of the ftone work, with one bell in it, ftill continues.

At CuMBWELL, near Goudhurft, Robert de Thornham or Turneham founded a priory of the order of St. Auguftihe, in the reign of Henry the Second. It was dedicated to St. Mary Mag- dalen, confifted of a prior and fix canons, and at the general fuppreflion, was endowed with 80 K 17 s. 5 d. a year.

Tunbridge, or the town of Bridges, received its name from its having five bridges, one over the river Medway, aad the reft over different branches

VcLV.pa.n-j

KEN T. 117

of that river. It is fituated thirty-five miles north- caft by north of Rye, and twenty-nine fouth-eaft by fouth of London, Mod of thehoufes are ill built, and the ftreets are very indifferently paved. The church is however a modern ftrudure, and there .is a free-fchool ere6led by Sir Andrew Judd, lord mayor of London, a native of this town, who appointed the Ikinners company truftees of the charity, on which an eftate was fettled upon it by parliament in the reign of queen Elizabeth, It has a market on Fridays, and three fairs, held on Afh-Wednefday, July 5, and October 29, for bullock, horfes and toys. Here was a large handfome caftle, encompaffed with ftrong walls, and defended by the river and a deep ditch. Some ruins of the walls are ftill remaining, asisalfothc keep, which is covered with ivy, and of thefe ruins we have given an engraved view. Richard de Clare., earl of Brionie in Normandy (in con- fideration of his loyalty and the lofs of Brionie Caftle demoliihed by Robert, duke of Norman- .ciy) obtained of William Rufus as much land here as confiftcd of a league in length and breadth, upon which he built this caftle, in whofe family it continued, till by Ifabeli, fifter and co- heirefs of Gilbert de Clare, earl of Gloucefter and Hertford, it came to the Audleys, and from them, by an heirefs to Ralph Stafford, whofe def- cendant Edward Stafford, duke of Bucks, loll his life, and forfeited his eftate by an attainder in 1521, in the twelfth year of the reign of Henry the Eighth.

There was alfo at Tunbridge a priory of black canons, founded by Richard de Clare, earl of Briony and Hertford, about the end of the reign of king Henry the Firft, and dedicated to St Ma- ry Magdalen. He alfo endowed it with certain lents, and th^ privilege of feeding ong hundred

and

1ri8> A Description of

and twenty hogs yearly in the forefl of Tonc- brigge, and with one buck at the feaft of St. A'lary Magdalen. It was one of thofe fmall monafteries which cardinal Wolfey procured to be diflblved in the feventeenth of Henry the Eighth. Its revenues were of the annual value of 169 1. los. 3d. Its remains fliew that it was a great clumfey flru6ture.

TuNBRiDGF Wells are about five miles fouth of the town of Tunbridge, but are fituated for the moft part in the fame parifh, at the bottom of three hills, called Mount Sinai, Mount Ephraim, and Mount Pleafant, on each of which are good houfes and fine fruit gardens ; but the Wells are fupplied from a fpring in the neighbouring parifh of Spelhurfl. The principal well is walled in, and paved like a ciftern ; and there are two paved walks running from it, in one of which is a long covered gallery for a band of mufic, and for the company to v/alk under in bad weather ; and there is alfo a row of fhops of different kinds, for books, toys, and millenary goods, as alfo for wooden boxes, cups, bowls and the like, com- monly called Tunbridge Ware, befides cofTee- rooms, and a hall for dancing. On the other fide is a good market, in which all kinds of provifions are generally very reafonable. They have plenty of the befl wild fowl, particularly of Wheatears, and of al moft all forts of fifh, about three hours after they are taken. Behind the Wells is a chapel of eafe to the parifli church, where divine fervice is performed twice a day during the months of June, July, and Auguft, which is the feafon for drink- ing the water. Seventy poor children are whoUy maintained here by the contributions of the com- pany at the Wells, from whom the chaplain has alfo his chief fupport. The waters have a purg- ing quality, and if the ftomach is foul will vo- mit;

KEN T. 119

tTiit; for which reafon^ fome Inftead ofphyfictake a fpoonful of common fait with good elFed:. The water is accounted an efFe(9:ual remedy in Jiecent dropfies, and is of great fervice in pains of the ftomach. It is good in .ulcers of the kidnies and bladder ; and ftrengthens the brain and origin of the nerves ; it is alfo good in convulfions, the head-ach and vertigo. It rs excellent in long and tedious agues, in the black and yellow jaundice, hard fweliings of the fpleen, the fcurvy and green- iicknefs.

At the diftance of five miles fouth-weft of Tunbridge is Penshurst, a village that has a fair on the firft of July, for pedlars goods.

Sir Philip Sidney, the darling of his time, and one of the moft accomplillied gentlemen that ever appeared in this, or in any other nation, was the eldeft fon of Sir Henry Sydney, lord deputy of Ireland, and was: born in this village on the 26th of November, 154*4. He had his education at Shrewfbury fchool, and at Chrift's church college in Oxford ; in both which places he made fo rapid a progrefs in his ftudies, that, by the time he had attained to his fevcnteenth year, he was univer- fally confidered as a moft excellent fcholar. Be- fore he was turned of eighteen, he fet out on his travels ; and after making the tour of France, Germany, and Italy, he returned, in 1575, ^^ England. So great was his reputation, not only in his native country., but in moft parts of Eu- rope, that the king of France appointed him one of the gentlemen of his chamber; the Poles put him in nomination for their crown, which was then vacant ; queen Elizabeth fent him amballa- dor to the emperor Maximilian the Second, and the prince palatine of the Rhine, being made a knight of the garter, gave him his procuration to receive his ftall^ and take pofieHion of it in his » name.

iid ^Description af

name, and it was upon that occafion that Mr^ Sydney was knighted. In 1586, he was appointed governor, of Flufhing, and accompanied his uncle, the earl of Leicefter, to Flanders ; where, du- ring the Ihort time that he ferved, he gave many fignal proofs of his courage and condu6):. He had a confiderable (hare in the taking of Axel and Dorpt ; but falling into an ambufcade of the Spa- niards, near Zulphen, he received in his thigh a dangerous wound, whjch, producing a mortifica- tion, put a period to his life in the thirty-fecond year of his age. The ftates of Zealand would itove honoured his remains with a public funeral • but queen Elizabeth caufed them to be brouglit over to England, and to be interred with mi- litary honours, in St. Paul's cathedral in London. Never was man more univerfally beloved while living, or more fmcerely regretted when dead : the mourning for him was almoft as general as if he had been of the blood royal. Learned himfelf, and the patron of the'learned, he was juftly con- fidered as the Mecaenas of his time. He wrote the romance, called Arcadia \ an anfwer to a book, entitled, " Leicefter's Commonwealth ;" Aftro- phel and Stella ; Ourania ; and feveral other pieces. He honoured with his friendfhip, and af- iiiled by his bounty, the famous poet Spencer ; and to him were dedicated, as to an exquiflte judge, moft of the literary produ6lions of the age. So apt was he to be tranfported with any thing excellent, efpecially in poetry, that, upon read- ing a few ftanzas of Spencer's Fairy ^leen^ (which had been put into his hands by the author, before he was acquainted with him) he ordered his ftew- ard to give him fifty pounds : upon reading ano- ther ftanza, he doubled the fum ; and he at laft raifed his gratuity to two hundred pounds, and commanded his iteward to deliver it immediately^

KENT. 121

iefl-, upon proceeding farther, he fliould be tempt- ed to give away his whole eftate. Nor was he lefs remarkable for the humanity of his temper, than for his other amiable qualities. After the battle of Zulphen, while he was lying in the field, mangled with wounds, a bottle of water was brought him to relieve histhirft; but obferving a poor foidier near him in a like miferable condi- tion, hefaid, this mans necejjityisjiill greater than mine ; and refigned to him the bottle of water : an inftance of fuch heroic and god-like generofity, as can hardly be paralleled in ancient or modern ftory.

About feven miles north-weft by north of Tun- bridge is Sevenoke, commonly called Senwock, which is faid to have taken its name from i^^zvL oaks of an extraordinary fize, that once grew near it. It is fituated twenty-three miles fouth-eaft by fouth of London, and is governed by a warden and four afliftants. Here is an hofpital for maintain- ing aged people, and a fchool for the education of poor children, built and endowed by Sir Wil- liam Sevenoke, who was lord mayor of London in 1418, and is faid to have been a foundling, brought up at the expence of fome charitable per- fon of this town, whence he took his name. John Potkyn was, in the reign of king Henry the Eighth, a great benefador to this fchool; and the revenues being afterwards augmented by queen Elizabeth, it was thence called Queen Elizabeth's free-fchool. It was rebuilt in 1727, and it is re- markable, the ftile of the corporation is the war- dens and affiftants of the town and parifh of Se- venoke, and of Queen Elizabeth's free-fchool there. This town has alfo a charity-fchool for fifteen boys. It has a market on Saturdays, and two fairs, one on the tenth of July, and the other on the twelfth of October.

Vol, V F Here

122 A Description of

Here was formerly a magnificent palace belong-^ ing to the archbifhops of Canterbury, built by Thomas Bourchier, archbifbop of that fee, and much improved by John Moreton and William. Warham, his fuccefibrs. It was afterwards ex- changed with the king, but it was negle6ted for fome time, till Thomas Sackville, earl of Dorfet, obtained it of James the Firft. His grandfon Richard, fold It to Richard Smith, commonly called Dog Smith, wh.o fettled it for ever upoa St. Thomas's hofpital in Southwark.

About five miles to the weft of Sevenoke Is Westerham, or Westram, a neat well built market town', on the weftern borders of Kent. Its market is on Fridays, and it has a fair on Sep- tember 19, for bullocks, horfes and toys. Near- it is a noble feat begun by a private gentleman, but finiflied by the late earl of Jerfey, and called Squirres, The houfe is feated on a fmall eminence with refpe6l to the front ; but on the back of the edifice the ground rifes very high, and is divided into feveral Iteep flones ; near the houfe are fome woods, through which are cut feveral ridings. On the other fide of the hill, behind^he houfe, rife nine fprings, which uniting their ftreams, form the river Darent.

Benjamin Hoadley, a learned divine, a worthy prelate, and a zealous defender of the natural rights of mankind, was the fon of a clergyman, and born at Weftram on the 14th of November, 1676. He had his education at Catharine-hall, Cambridge, where he applied to his ftudies with unwearied diligence, and where he took his de- grees of bachelor and mafter of arts. His firft preferment in the church was that of being lectu- rer of St. Mildred in the Poultry, London; and \\\ 1704, he was prefented to the rectory of St. Peter's i'oor in Broad-ftreet. Before he attained

to

KENT. 153

to the thirty-fourth year of his age, he had dif- t.inguifhed himlelf fo much by his excellent wri- tings, that the Houfe of Commons pafled a vote, recommending him to the favour of her majefty, queen Anne, for fome dignity in the church j but with this requeft, though fhe received it very gra- ciouily, the queen could never be perfuaded to comply. In 17 10 he v^^as indu6fed to the recl:o- ry of Streatham in Surry; and upon the accef- iion of king George the Firft to the throne, h*: was fworn one of that prince's chaplains in ordi- nary. In 17 1 5 he was advanced to the biihopric of Bangor ; and it was remarked as a very fingu- lar circumftance, and not at all to his diflionour, that fo great a ftranger was he as yet to the court, that, when he came there to kifs hands on his promotion, he did not know the way up flairs ; and when he arrived, he fat in an outer room, till he was fhewn into the prefence. His prefer- vative againft the principles and pradices of the Nonjurers was publifhed in 1756 ; his fermon on the nature of the kingdom of Chrifl the yeir fol- lowing. This lad gave occafion to the celebra- ted difpute, known by the name of the BangQ- rian Controverfy. In 172 1 he was tranllated to the fee of Hereford, to that of Salifbury in 1723, and to that of Winchefter about eleven years af- ter. This laft dignity he held till his death, which happened April 17, 176 1, at his palace at Chelfca. He had three fons, Samuel, Benjamin, and John. The firft died an infant ; the fecond was bred a phyfician, and was author of the Suf- picious Hiijband \ and the third, who is ftill living, is a clergyman, and enjoys fome confiderable pre- ferments in the church. The bifhop's works, v/hich are partly theological and partly political, are highly efteemed; but are fo numerous, that to ¥ 2 crive

124 ^ Description c/*

give a bare catalogue of them would greatly ex- ceed our limits.

Bromley is a fmall town, fituated on the river Ravenfbourn, nine miles north of Weftram, and fix fouth of Greenwich. Of this parifli the bi- fliop of Rochefter, for the time being, is always re6lor, and has a palace at a little diftance from the town, where is a mineral fpring, the water of which has been found, by a chemical analyfis, to contain the fame qualities as that of Tunbridge Wells does in a greater degree. Here is a college, ere<Sled in the reign of king Charles the Second, by Dr. John Warner, bilhop of Rochefter, for twenty widows of poor clergymen, who have an allowance of twenty pounds a year each, and fifty pounds a year to a chaplain. This town has a fmaJl market on Thurfdays ; and two fairs, held on February 3, and Auguft 5, for horfes, bul- locks, Iheep and hogs.

At the village of Keston, which is fituated about three miles fouth of Bromley, is a fortifi- cation, the area of which is inclofed with very high treple ramparts and deep ditches, near two miles in compafs. • This is fuppofed to be a work of the Romans.

Lewisham, is a village feated about four miles north of Bromley, arid five miles fouth-eaft of London, and had a priory of BenedicStine monks, founded and endowed by king Alured, and his fon Edward the Eldtr, with feveral manors. This religious houfe was one of the firft that felt the feverity of the fccular power ; for as it belonged to the abbey of St. Peter's at Ghent, and was con- fequently an alien priory, it was fuppreffed by Henry the Fifth, and the revenues beftowed on the magnificent rnonaftery at Shene in Surry, founded by that king.

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^ ""lliillli]

. K E N T. i25

We have now followed the roads which lead round the borders of this county, and fhall next proceed through the centre of it, in the road from Loadon to Afhford.

Eltham is a village feven miles fouth of Lon- don, in the road toMaidftone. It had formerly a palace, ere6led by Anthony Beck, bifhop of Dur- ham, who beftowed it upon queen Eleanor, wife of king Edward the Firft. King Edward the Se- cond conftantly refided here, where Ifabella his queen was delivered of John, who hence was cal- led John of Eltham. King Edward the Third here entertained the kings of France, Scotland and Armenia at the fame timej and this was king Henry the Sixth's ufual place of refidence. King Edward the Fourth, who laid out large fums in the repair of this ftrudure, entertained two thoufand perfons in the great hall, and king Hen- ry the Seventh built a fine front. His fuccellors fpent moft of their hours of pleafure here, till Greenwich grew up, ' v/hen this palace was negledled ; and here were made the ftatutes of Eltiiam, by which the king's houfe is ftill gover- ned. Of this palace we have given a view. The town has the honour of giving the title of earl to the prince of Wales, and here are the houfes of feveral rich citizens, and alfo two charlty-fchools. St. Mary Cray, or Cray St. Mary's, is fituated about two miles wefl of the road to Maidflone, near the fource of the river Cray, at the diflance of twelve miles from London. It has a fair on the loth of September, for toys.

Shoreham is feated about three miles to the weftward of the road to Maidftone, and four miles north-eaft of Sevenoke. It has a church and charity-fchool, with an old houfe, called Shoreham Caftle, from its being built with bat- F 3 tlements.

226 J Description of

tlements, and has a fair on the firft of May, for toys.

Wrotham, or WoRTHAM, is faid to have taken its name from the plenty of Worts, an herb that grows in its neighbourhood, and is twenty- five miles fouth-eaft of London, and eleven north- weft of Maidftone. It has a large church, in which are fixteen ftalls, fupppofed to have been made for the clergy attending the archbifliops of Canterbury, who had formerly a palace here, la the laft century, a confiderable quantity of old Britifh filver coins was dug up in this manor ; and not many years ago feveral fmall folid pieces of brafs were found, in a place called the Camps, fuppofed to have been the weapons or armour of fome military officer buried there. It has a mar- Icet on Tuefdays, and one fair, on May 4, for iiorfes, bullocks, &c.

West Malling, or Town Mailing, is fituated twenty-nine miles eaft-fouth-eaft of Lon- don, and fix weft by north of Maidftone, and was raifed from a fmall village to a confiderable place by Gundulph, bifhop of Rochefter, who in 1080 founded an abbey here for nuns of the Be- nedictine order, which was dedicated to the Vir- gin Mary, and was valued at the diflblution at 218 i. a year by Dugdale, but at 245 1. by Speed. The walls, a great part of which are ftili ftand- ing, fhew that it was very large and fpacious. The town has a market on Saturdays, and three fairs, which are held on Auguft 12, 0<5lober 2, and November 17, for bullocks, horfes and toys. West Peckham, or Little Peckham, is a village thi;ee miles fouth-weft of Weft Malling, where was a preceptory belonging to the knights of St. John of Jerufalem, founded by John Cole- pepper^ which was valued at the diilblution at

63 U

KENT. 127

63 1. 6s. 8 d. a year, after which it came with the reft of their lands to the hofpitallers.

Maidstone received its name from its fitua- tion on the bank of the river Medvvay, and is feated thirty-fix miles fouth-eaft by eaft of Lon- don, and thirty-three north-weft by weft of Hithe. It was a Roman ftation, and was anciently reckoned the third among the principal cities of Britain . It v/as then called Caer Medwag, or Caer Megwad, which is thought to fignify the meadows upon the river Vaga, which are here very beau- tiful. Its Roman name was Madviacis, or Vag- ^niacis, which was probably derived from the Bri- tifli. It has always been a confiderable town, and is now a corporation, governed by a mayor, re- corder, twelve jurats, and twenty-four commoners. It is pleafant, large, and populous. Being near- ]y in the middle of the county, one of the pub- lic goals for the county is kept in it, and it has the cuftody of weights and meafures, renewed by the ftandard of king Henry the Seventh. The courts of juftice are likewife always held here, and generally the county afiizes, and the eledions for knights of the fhire. It has however but one parifh, of which the archbifhop of Canterbury 13 redor, it being one of his peculiars, and ferved by his curate ; but there are two parifti churches, and fome Dutch inhabitants have divine fervice: performed in one of them, which is dedicated to St. Faith. Here is a fine ftone bridge over the Medway, erecled by an archbifhop of Canter- bury, and a fine new court-houfe has been lately erected. At this place the Len falls into that ri- ver, and the tide, which flows quite up to the town, carries barges of fixty tons burden. Here is a free-fchool, and alfo four charity-fchools, in which are above a hundred boys and girls ; one of Ihem for thirty boys, another for thirty girls, F 4 both

128 -/^Description of

both clothed ; a third for thirty boys, who are diftinguifhed, by wearing cloaks and bands ; and a fourth for twenty boys and girls. The chief trade of Maidftone is in thread, which is made here in great perfection ; and in hops, of which there are very extenfive plantations about the town, befides orchards of fine cherries. From this town, and the adjacent country, London is fupplied with more commodities than from any other market town in- England, particularly with timber, large bullocks, hops, cherries, apples, wheat, a fine white fand for glafs-houfes and fia- tioners, and a kind of paving ftone about eight or ten inches fquare, that is exceeding durable. The market, which is on Thurfdays, is the befl in the county, and is toll-free for hops ; there are alfo four fairs, which are held on February 13, May 12, June 20, and October 17, for horlts, bullocks, and all forts of commodities.

The archbifhop of Canterbury had a palace here, founded by John OfFord j there was alfo a college or hofpital, erected by archbifhop Boniface, and a chantry by 1 homas Arundel, which is now the free- Ichool. This hofpital was at firft called the New "Work, and was dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul ; but William Courtney, one of the archbifliops of Canterbury,converted it into a college for one maf- Ter and as many fellows, chaplains and other mi- nifters, as he fhould think expedient. It was de- dicated to all the Saints, and the parifh church was made collegiate. They were valued at the diiTolution at 159 1. a year byDugdale^ but at 261 1. by Speed.

In the year 1720 were dug up feveral canoes made of trees, which were hollowed. Thefe were found in the marfhes of the river Medway above Maidftone, and one of them was fome time after ufed for a boat.

Near

KENT. 129

Near Maidflone was feated Allington Caf- tle, which was built by Sir Stephen de Penchef- ter about the year 1282, on whofe death, with- out iflue male, it defcended by Joan his daughter and co-heirefs to Stephen de Cobham, from which family it came to that of Brent, whofe defcen- dant John Brent, in 1493, pafled it away to Sir Henry Wyat, knight, one of king Henry the Se- venth's privy council. His grandfon Sir Thomas Wyat, knight, after he had repaired it, forfeited it to the crown in 1555. Queen Elizabeth grant- ed it to John Aftley, £fq; mafter of the jewels, whofe fon. Sir John Aftley, dying without iflue, it defcended to Jacob, created lord Aftley in the reign of Charles the Firft, of which family the right honourable lord Marfham purchafed it. A part of the walls are ftill ftanding, which fhew" that it has been a very ftrong ftrudure.

At the village of Hunton near Maidftone was difcovered in the year 1683, at the depth of about fix yards, a ftratum of fea fhells feveral yards fquare, which however ftrange, is not very un- common in places much more remote from the fea.

At the village of Leeds, near Maidftone, Ro- bert de Crepito Corde, or Crevecoeur, or Crou- cheart, knight, ereiled in the year 11 19, a priory of black canons, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Nicholas, which, at the fuppreilion, was endow- ed with an annual revenue, amounting to 362 1. 7 s. 7 d. A caftle was alfo ereded here by the noble family of Crevecoeur ; but it vva:s forfeit- ed, with the manor, by Robert, the fon of Haman de Crevecoeur, for his adhering to the barons. Henry the Third gave it to Roger de Leyburn, a baron. Edward the Second in 1309 granted this place to Bartholomew lord Badlef- mere, whofe fervants re fufing queen Ifabell lodg- ing here without their lord's knowledge, raifed the F 5 king

130 >f Description^/

king to that height of paffion that he befieging it^ it loon fiirrendered. Afterwards it was in the ' pofTeffion of Thomas Arundell, who was confe- crated ar^chbifhop of Canterbury in 1396; on whofe death it fell to the crown, and was reputed one of the king's houfes. King Edward the Sixth , in 1550, granted it to Sir Anthony St. Leger, knight, and from him through .different owners I it came to Sir John C.olepeper, knight, created lord Colepeper in 1643, from whom, by marriage, it fell to the *ight honourable Thomas lord Fair- fax.

At BoxLEY, a village three miles north of Maidftone^ William de Ipre, earl of Kent, in the year 1146, founded an abbey of Ciftercian- monks, from Claravalle in Burgundy, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which was endowed at the fuppreffion with 204 1. 4 s. 11 d. a year. Here wa* . the image of St. Rumbald, which was fo contriv- I ed, that it was made to move the hands, eyes, 1 feet, and to nod, frown and fmile. It was confi- ' dcred as the touchftone of chaftity, and brought incredible gain to the monks, till the fraud was detected by Cromwell and Cranmer, after which it was brought to London, fhewn publickly at St. Paul's crofs, and then broke to pieces.

Aylesford is feated orv the river Medway,, over which it has a bridge, three miles north- weft of Maidftone, and thirty-four eaft fouth-eall: of London. It is now a fmall place, in compa- lifon of what it was formerly. The parifti is di- vided by the river Medway, and the north part is- an ancient demefne, and has a conftable ; and in this part the church {lands •, it has no market nor fair,, though it formerly had both. There was a houfe of Carmelites, or white friars, founded by the lord Grey of Codnor, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in the year 1240. After the fuppreflion it

Vo/.Y.pa.7^'^o.

KENT. 131

was given to Sir Thomas Wyat, whofe fon forfeited it to the crown, by rebelling againft queen Mary. Queen Elizabeth gave it to Mr. Sidney, whofe brother, Sir William Sidney, ered- ed an hofpital, in it 07, for fix poor people, with an allowance to each of ic 1. a year.

Sir Charles Sedley, an eminent wit and poet of the feventeenth century, was born at Aylesford, about the year 1639. He fludied for fome time in Wadham college, Oxford ; but left the univerfity without taking any degree. Upon the refloration he appeared at court, v/here he fooii recommended himfelf to the notice of that gay and difTolute monarch, king Charles the Second, with whom he became, from a fympathy of temper, a moft diftinguiflied favourite. Sir Charles, how- ever, though extremely devoted to his pleafures, made no contemptible figure in parliament, of which he was a member. He oppofed, with great vigour, all. the arbitrary meafures of king James, and concurred heartily in the revolution ; though in this he is faid to have been adluated by perfonal refentment againft that prince, who had de- bauched his daughter, whom he created countefs of Dorchefter. Sir Charles died about the year 1722, when his works were publifhed in two vo- lumes, odtavo. They chiefly confiit of poems and plays.

Near Aylesford, under the fide of a high chalky hill, is a heap of ftones of a prodigious fize, fome {landing on their ends, and others lying acrofs, called by the common people Ketts, or Keith- Coty-FIoufe, and are fuppofed to be the tombs of Kentigern and Horbus, two Daniih princes killed here in battle.

Eight miles to the weft of Maidftone is Le>;- HAM, which takes its name from its fituation at the fource of a fmall river called the Len, and has

a m.ii-

132 v/ Description 0/

a market on Tuefdays, with two fairs, one on the 6th of June, for horned cattle and horfes, and the other on the 23d of 06lober, for horfes, &c. There is a remarkable infcription upon a tomb ftone in the church, fignifying that Mary Honey- wood, the wife of Robert Honeywood, Efq; of Charing near this town, had, at the time of her deceafe, three hundred and fixty-feven defcen- dants, fixteen of which were children of her own body, a hundred and fourteen grand children, two hundred and twenty-eight great grand chil- dren, and nine in the fourth generation.

Two miles and a half fouth-weft of Lenham is Ulcomb, where the parifli church was made col- legiate for an archiprefbyter, and two canons, with one deacon, and one clerk, by Stephen Langton, archbifhop of Canterbury, about the year 1220. This fubfifted in 1293, but feems to have dropped afterwards, and the church became, as it is at prefent, an undivided rectory.

At MuTTENDEN, feven or eight miles to the fouth weft of Lenham, was a priory of Trinitari- an friars, founded by Sir Robert de Rokefly, Knt. about the year 1224, and dedicated to the Trini- ty, v;hich at the fuppreffion was, according to Dugdale, endowed with a revenue of 30 1. 13 s, but, according to Speed, it amounted to 60I. 13 s. About eight miles to the fouth of Lenham h Smarsden, whofe manor anciently belonged to the archbifhop of Canterbury. The church is- dedicated to St. Michael, and in queen Mary^'s leign there was a rood-loft, in which one Drainer, a juftice of the peace, made nine holes, to obferve thofe, who did not conform to the popifti ceremo- nies, that he might puniih them, from whence he was called Juftice nine holes. It has a market on Fridays, and one fair on October 10, for pedlars ware.

At

KENT. 133

At the diftance of ten miles fouth-eaft of Len- ham is Ashford, which received its name from its being feated by the ford of a fmall river called the Efh, twelve miles weft-north-weft of Hithe, and fifty-feven eaft-fouth-eaft of London. It is governed by a mayor, and has a court of record every three weeks, for all adiions, in which the debts or damages do not exceed twenty marks. Here is a large church, which was formerly col- legiate. In the church was alfo a chantry, in a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, but the lands which fupported it were given among feve- ral perfons at the fuppreffion. This town has a market on Saturdays, and two fairs, held on May I 7, and September 9, for horfes, horned cattle, and pedlars goods.

John Wallis, an eminent mathematician in the laft century, was the fon of a clergyman, and born November 23, 16 16, in this town. He had his education firft under one Mr. MofFat, a Scotch- man, afterwards at Felfted fchool in Eflex, and laft of all at Emanuel college in Cambrido-e. Having taken his degrees, and entered into orders, he became chaplain to the lady Vere, w^idow of lord Horatio Vere; and it was during his conti- nuance in this lady's family, that he began to dif^ tinguifli himfelf in the art of decyphering, which lie afterwards carried to the higheft perfection. Upon the breaking out of the civil war, he fided with the parliament, and was prefented by that party to the living of St. Gabriel, Fen- church-ftreet, London. In 1644, ^^ was ap- pointed one of the fcribes or fecretaries to the af^ fembly of divines at Weftminfter ; and in 164?, figned a remcnftrance againft putting the king to death. The next year he was conftituted, by the parliamentary vifitors, Savilian profefTor of Geo- metry at Oxford ) and it was during his refidence

in

134 -^ Description of

in that feat of the Mufes, that he promoted and encouraged thofe weekly meetings of the learned^ which afterwards gave birth to the Royal Society, The duties of his office, however faithfully dif-^ charged, did not engrofs the whole of his atten- tion. He publifhed a grammar of the Englifh language in Latin, for the ufe of foreigners. He engaged in a controverfy with the celebrated Mr. Hobbes ; and managed the difpute with equal fpi- rit and ability. In 1657 he digefted the fubftance of his ledlures into a regular work, and publifhed it under the title of Mathefts Unhsrfalis, five opus Jrithmetlcum, Upon the death of Mr, Langbaine, in the courfe of the enfuing year, he was chofea Cufios Archivoru?n in the fame univerfity. After the reftoration of king Charles the Second, his majefty remembering, that, notwithftanding the doctor's attachment to the popular party, he had performed fome fignal fervices to himfelf and his royal father, and had likewife reflected great ho- nour on his country by his mathematical learning, was pleafed not only to confirm him in the pof- feilion of his places, but to appoint him one of his chaplains in ordinary, and to name him one of the commiflioners empov/ered to review the boo'c of Common Prayer. He afterwards complied with the acSt of conformity ; and continued a ftea- dy conformift till his death. He was one of the Jirft members of the Roval Society, and enriched their tranfa6lions with many curious and valuable paper?. He died OiSlober 28, 1703, and was in- terred in the choir of St. Mary's church at Ox- ford. Bcfides the works already mentioned, he publiCied a variety of other trails.

Seven miles north- weft of Afliford is Charing, a village which anciently belonged to Chriit church in Canterbury, but was taken from it by king OfFa, and remained in the hands of the Mer-

ci^

SENT. I3S

clan kings, till archbifhop Athelard, In the year 799, perfuaded king Kenulph, to reftore it to the church, and it continued in the poiTeflion of the archbifhops, till Cranmer exchanged this manor with Henry the Eighth, by which means it came to the crown. At the fuppreffion the manor was given to Sir John Darell. This village has two fairs, held on the ift of May, and the 29th of October, for horfes, horned cattle, and pedlars goods.

Pluckley is a village five miles north-weft of Afliford, and has a parifti church built by Sir Richard Pluckley ; "but after the deceafe of Wil- liam, the laft male heir of the family, it came ta John Serenden, Efq; who married Agnes his daughter, after which it came into the pofTelTioii: of the Deerings, who have built a very beautiful church here. There is one fair held here on De- cember 5, for pedlars goods.

Bethersden, a village about fix miles weft- by fouth of Afhton ; it was probably fo called from St. Beatrice, to whom the church was dedi- cated ; in a peculiar chancel, on the north fide of it, there was a perpetual chantry, founded in the reign of Henry the Sixth, by Richard Lovelace, mercer and merchant of London. There is one fair, kept here on July 31, for pedlars goods.

Four miles north-eaft of Afhford is Wye, which is fituated upon the bank of the river Stour, over which it has a bridge, at the diftance of hfty- feven miles from London. It has a harbour for barges, and a charity-fchool founded by lady Jo- anna Thornhill. It has a market on Thurfdays, and two fairs, which are held on the 24th of March, and the 2d of November, for horfes, horn- ed cattle, and pedlars goods. The manor of this town William the Conqueror gave to Battle ab- bey, whijch he eredted in rememJDriince of the

viclory.

136 A Description of

vidlory, by which he gained the Englifh mo- narchy. It was called the Royal manor of Wye, and had at that time twenty-two towns and vil- lages belonging to it, lying acrofs the country as far as that abbey. Henry the Sixth built a collegiate church here for one mafter or provoft, and fecu- lar priefts, and endowed it with lands. This fi:ru£lure has been rebuilt fince the year 1706, the old one having been almoft reduced to ruins by the fall of a tower.' Here alfo John Kemp, bifhop of York, and afterwards archbifhop of Canterbury, and a cardinal, began in 1431 a college for a mafter or provoft:, and feveral ca- nons, and finifhed it in 1447. This ftru6lurewas dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Martin, and its revenues at the fupprelHon were worth 93 1. 2 s, a year.

This county has produced, befides the great men already mentioned, thofe which follow.

William Caxton, famous for being the firft who introduced the art of printing into England, was born fomewhere in Kent about the year 1412. A- bout the age of fifteen he was bound apprentice to a mercer in London, with whom he lived feve- ral years. He then went over to the Low Coun- tries, where he learned the art of printing, which had been lately invented at Harlem, or Mentz, by one Toflan, alias John Guthenberg, or by Fauf- tus, or SchaefFer ; for antiquaries are not agreed^ either as to the place where, or the perfons by whom this noble art was firft difcovered. Cax- ton having made himfelf mafter of it, introduced it into England ; according to fome in 1464 ; ac- cording to others in 1474; but, in the general opinion, fome time between thefe two periods. From this time he continued to exercife the art,

publifli*

K E N T. 137

publifhing one or more books every year till the day of his death, which happened in 1491.

Sir Nicholas Bacon, lord keeper of the great feal in the reign of queen Elizabeth, was defcend- ed of an ancient and honourable family, and born in 1 510, at Chiflehurft in this county. After fi- nifhing his ftudies in Bennet college, Cambridge, ■he travelled into France, for his farther improve- ment. On his return to his native country, he fettled in Gray's Inn, and applied himfelf to the ftudy of the law, with fuch alTiduity, that he foon became one of the moft diitinguifhed in the profef- fion. As a reward of his merit, Henry the Vlllth made him a large grant of lands on the difTolution of the monaileries, and promoted him to the office cf attorney in the Court of Wards. He enjoyed the fame office under Edward the V 1th; and, by his prudence and moderation, kept himfelf fafe dur- ing the dangerous reign of queen Mary. On the acceifion of queen Elizabeth, he was created a knight, and intrufted with the cuftody of the great feal of England ; which he held, without interruption, for the fpace of twenty years. He expired on the 20th of February, 1579, and was interred in St. Paul's cathedral. This eminent flatefman was no lefs remarkable for his modefty than his fenfe ; for when queen Elizabeth told him, that his houfe was too little for him; Not fo. Madam, replied he, but your majejly has mads me too great for my houfe,

Giles Fletcher, author of the Ruffe Common- wealth, and brother to Richard Fletcher, bifhop of London, was born fomewhere in this county. He received his education in Eton-fchool, and in King's college, Cambridge, where he took the degrees in arts, as alfo that of dodor of laws. He aded as ambaffador to queen Elizabeth in Scot- land, Germany, the Low Countries, and Ruflla.

Upon

139 A Description of

Upon his return from this laft country, he wail appointed fecretary to the city of London, and one of the maflers of the Court of Chancery. He died in February 16 10. Befides his Ruffe Common- wealth, he writ an account of the learned in Bri* taln^ who have founded colleges at Cambridge .

John Lilly, a writer of fome fame in the fix- teenth century, and by many accounted one of the firft reformers of the Englifh tongue, was born in the Wild of Kent, about the year 1553. He fludied fome time both in Oxford and Cambridge; but took no higher degree than that of bachelor of arts. In 1579 he repaired to court, where he became a great favourite with queen Elizabeth. Befides nine plays, he publifhed a book, intitled, Euphues and his E?ighnd^ in which he gives a re- gular fyftem of moral duties, and lafhes feverely the vices of the age.

Sir Francis Walfingham, one of the greateft ftatefmen that ever this ifland produced, was born of a good family at Chiflehurft in Kent, and edu- cated at King's college in Cambridge. Having finifhed his courfe of academical learning, he tra- velled into foreign countries ; and returning ta England in the reign of queen Elizabeth, was fent by that princefs, as her ambaffador, to the court of France. Here he refided for feveral years; and difcharged the duties of his office with equal ability and fuccefs. In 1573 h^ was appointed one of the principal fecretaries of Hate ; was fvvorn a privy-counfellor ; and gratified with the honour of knighthood : and from this time forvi^ards he was univerfally confidered as one of the wifeft minif- ters of the wife queen Elizabeth. He dete6led and defeated all the fecret plots that were formed againll her perfon ; and particularly that famous one, called Babijtgton's Confpiracy ; which coft the <iu«en of Scots her life. After the death of

tha^

KENT. 13^^

that unhappy princefs, he was nominated chan- cellor of the dutchy of Lancafter, created a knight of the garter, and chofen recorder of the borough of Colcheiler. He died April the 6th, 1590, and was privately interred in St. Paul's cathedral. So extenfive was his intelligence, and fo great were the fums which he laid out for that purpofe, that he maintained, it is faid, no lefs than fifty- three agents in foreign courts, and eighteen fpies. His dilintereflednefs, we are aflured, was equal to his other virtues ; for, notwithftanding the ma- ny lucrative places, which he had fo long enjoy- ed, he died fo poor, that he fcarce left enough to defray the expences of his funeral. A book, in- titled, ^/r^;/^ AuUca^\s commonly afcribed to him; but there is feme reafon to doubt if it was of h^s own compofition.

Sir Richard Baker, a writer of the feventeenth century; was born at Sifingherft in Kent, about the year 1568. After going through the ufual courfe of academical learning at Hart hall in Ox- ford, he travelled into foreign parts; and, upon his return home, was created mafter of arts, and foon after received the honour of knighthood. In 1620 he was high-fherifF of Oxfordfhire; but having by an imprudent marriage involved him- felf in debt, he was forced to take fhelter in the Fleet-prifon, where he ccmpofed feveral books, the principal of which is his Chronicle of the Kings of EnglancL He died in jail the i8th of February, 1645.

Sir Henry Wotton, an accomplifned ftatefman in the feventeenth century, was defcended of an ancient and honourable family, and born at Boc- ton in this county, on the 3cth day of March, 1568. He had his education at the univerfity of Cambridge, wJiere he applied to his ftudies with unwearied diligence, and diflinguilhed himfelf

greatly

r4<5 A Description of

greatly by his academical exercifes. Upon the dpath of his father he fet out on. his travels ; and, after making the tour of France, Italy, Germa- ny, and the Low Countries, returned, much im- proved, to his native country. His tirft public em- ployment was that of being fecretary to the fa- mous earl of Eflex, whom he attended to Ireland, and in his expeditions againft the Spaniards. Up- on the trial and condemnation of that nobleman, he withdrew himfelf to Florence, where he foon attracted the notice of the grand duke of Tuf- cany, who difpatched him with letters to king James the Sixth of Scotland, to acquaint him with a defign that v/as formed againft his life. This embafiy happily laid the foundation of all Mr. Wotton's future fortunes. King James had 'no fooner afcended the throne of England, than he fent for that gentleman ; bellowed upon him the honour of knighthood ; and employed him, nine or ten different times, as his ambadador at moft of the courts of Europe. Being difcharg- ed, at laft, from all his public employments, he was appointed provoft of Eton college \ and here he fpent the remainder of his days in a quiet, a ftudious, and honourable retirement. He died in December 1639, and was interred, according to his defire, in the chapel of his college. He wrote The State of Chrljiendom ; The Elements of Arch'i- teSiure ; Epiftol. cle Gafparo Scioppio ; EpijL ad AI, Velferum j Reliquia Wottoniancs^ kc. His defini- tion of an ambaffador was, that he is Fir bonus, peregre m'ljfus ad tnentiendu?n Reipublic^ Caufa ; i.e. An honeft man fent abroad to lie for the good of his country.

Sir George Rooke, one of the braveft and moft experienced naval officers that Great Britain ever produced, was born of honourable parentage in the county of Kent, in the year 1650. His firfl

KENT. 141

flatloii In the navy was that of a reformade, from which he rofe gradually through the inferior ranks of lieutenant, captain and commodore, to that of admiral. He diftinguilhed himfelf great- ly in the battles of La Hogue and Malaga, in the firft of which he deftroyed thirteen of the enemy's Ihips of war. For his gallantry in this adion, he received the honour of knighthood, and had a penfion of 1000 1. per annum, fettled upon him for life. In 1702 he deftroyed a large fleet of French men of war, and Spanifh galleons, in the harbour of Vigo, where he obtained a rich booty. The next year he took the ftrong fortrefs of Gibral- tar, the reduction of which is faid to have been owing to a fmgular circumftance ; the day, it feems, on which it was taken, being a Sunday, the women had all gone early in the morning to pay their devotions in a little chapel at fome dif- tance from the place ; the Englifh failors got be- tween them and their huft)ands ; and the latter choofmg rather to part with the town than their wives, compelled the governor to furrender. Not- withftanding the important fervices Sir George had performed for his country, he was obliged, by the violence of party fpirit, which then raged in an extreme degree, to refign his command. He died on the 24th of January, 1709, and v/as in- terred in Canterbury cathedral.

John Evelyn, a great philofopher, a worthy patriot, and an eminent writer of the feventeenth century, was born Odober the 31ft, 1620, at Wotton in this county, and educated at Baliol- college in Oxford. Having compleatedhis courfe of academical learning, he removed, about the year 1640, to the Middle Temple, London ; and there he continued till the breaking out of the civil war, when he obtained permiflion from king Charles the Firft to travel for his improvement.

He

142 !^ Description ^

He accordingly fpent above fix years and a half in making the tour of Europe ; and returning to England in 1651, took up his refidence at Sayes-Court near Deptford. Here he employed himfelf in beautifying his Villa, which he pof- lefTed in right of his wife, the only daughter of Sir Richard Browne ; and in the improvements which he made he gave a noble fpecimen of the pradicability of that plan, which he recommend- ed in his writings. Devoted, as he was, to ftudy and retirement, he was no lefs qualified for the ac- tive fcenes of life : for, upon the firfl probable profpe6t of the happy refforation, he appeared a warm advocate for the royal caufe ; and this fer- vice was fo acceptable to king Charles the Second, that he enjoyed, ever after, the confidence of that prince. When the Royal Society was eftablifhed in 1^62, Mr. Evelyn was appointed one of its members ; and at the breaking out of the Dutch war in 1664, he was conftituted a commifTioner of the fick and wounded feamen. His m.erit had, by this tim-e, introduced him into the acquain- tance of fome of the beft and greateft men of the age; and it was by his perfuafion chiefly, that the lord Henry Howard was prevailed on to pre- fent to the univerfity of Oxford, the noble col- Je£tion of Arundelian marbles : a favour fo grate- ful to that learned body, that they complimented him with the degree of do^or of the civil law. Upon the firft eredion of the Board of Trade and Plantations, he was appointed a member of that honourable council ; and he Ihewed by his fenfible hiflory of trade and navigation, how well he was qualified to fill fuch a place. In the reign of king James the Second, he was named one of the com- mifiioners for executing the high office of lord privy-feal ; and in a very little time after the revo- lution, he was conftituted treafurer of Green- wich

KENT. 143

t7ich Hofpital. But thefe great employments, however laborious, did not divert him from the profecution of his ftudies, which he ftill carried on with unwearied application ; and indeed the books he wrote v/ere fo numerous, and on fuch a variety of fubjecls, that to give a bare catalogue of them would greatly exceed the limits of this arti- cle. The principal are Scuiptura, or the Hiftory cf Chalcography and engraving in copper ; Syha^ or a Difcourfe of Forell: Trees ; Pomojia^ or a Treatife on Fruit Trees j A Parallel of ancient -and modern Architedure ; The Gardener's Al- manack ; Nutmfmata^ or a Difcourfe of Medals, together with upwards of twenty other Tra£ls. Mr. Evelyn died February 2, 1706, in the eighty- fixth year of his age.

John Evelyn, fon to the famous writer of that name, and himfelf a man of great genius and learning, was born in his father's houfe at Sayes- Court near Deptford, January the 14th, 1654. He ftudied fome time in Trinity- college, Oxford ; but it does not appear that he took any degree. As he was no lefs dilHnguifned for his political abili- ties than his literary accomplifhments, he was ap- pointed one of the commiflioners of the revenue in Ireland, and would probably have been ad- viinced to higher employments, had he not been cut oft in the flower of his age, dying March the 24th, 1698, in the forty-fifth year of his age. He tranflated a PocTn on Gardens^ from the Latin of Renatus Rapin^ and the Life of Alexander the Great^ from the Greek of Plutarch,

George Byng, lord Torrington, and rear-ad- miral of Great Britain, was defcended from an ancient family in the county of Kent, and born in 1663. ^^ ^^ ^g^ of fifteen he entered as a volunteer into the fea fervice, which, however, lie foon after (quitted, and ferved as a cadet of

grenadiers

144 -^ Description of

grenadiers under general Kirke at Tangier. He returned, neverthelefs, in 1684, to the fea fer- vice, in which he continued during the remaining part of his life, and had a capital fhare in moft of the fea fights that happened from 1690 to 1720. He rofe, merely by the force of merit, through all the inferior pofts in the navy, till at laft, in 1705, he was advanced to the rank of admiral. In 1708, he defeated an invafion, which the pretender threatened to make upon the kingdom of Scotr land. He likewife difconcerted, by his refolute condu£l:, thedefign formed byCharles theTwelfth of Sweden againft this ifland. But the moft im- portant aftion, in which he was ever engaged, and indeed one of the moft glorious events, that occurs in the Englifti hiftory, was the defeat he gave the Spanifh fleet off Cape PafTaro, where he took or deftroyed fifteen of their Ihips of war. For this noble atchievement, he was raifed to the peerage by the title of vifcount Torrington, and baron Byng of Southill, in Bedfordfhire. He was afterwards created a knight of the Bath, and ap- pointed firft lord of the Admiralty, in v/hich high ftation he died in the month of January, 1733.

Robert Plot, a learned philofopher and anti- quarian of the feventeenth century, was born at Sutton-barn, in the parifh of Bofden in Kent, and educated at the free-fchool of Wye, and at Magdalen-hall and univerfity-college in Oxford, where he took the degrees in arts and in law. In 1682 he was eledled fellow of the Royal So- ciety, and fuperintended the publication of fome of their Tranfadlions. He afterwards became keeper of the Aftimolaean colledion of curiofities, profeflbr of chemiftry in the univerfity of Ox- ford, hiftoriographer to king James the Second, and regifter of the court of Honour. He died of the ftone on the 30th of April, 1696, and was

interred

KENT. 145

interred In the parifli church of his native place. He compofed a natural hiflory of the counties of Oxford and Stafford ; and feveral other fmaller tra£ls inferted In the Philofophical Tranfaclion?.

Bafil Kennet, a learned writer, and brother of the preceding, was born October 21, 1674, at Poflling in Kent, and educated at Corpus-Chrilli-college, in Oxford, of which he became a fellow. In i;c6, he went over chaplain to the Englifh failory at Leghorn, where, notwithflanding the oppofitiori of the papids, he continued five years; and re- turning to England for the benefit of the air, was chofen prefident of his college. This honour, however, he did not long enjoys for he died on the 15th of May, 17 14. He wrote The Roman Antiquities^ and the Lives and Characters of the an- cient Greek Poets ; and tranflated into Englifh Puf- fendorfF's Treatife of the Law of Nature and Na- tions^ and fome other books.

Stephen Hales, a worthy divine, and an emi- nent mechanic genius, in the beginning of the eighteenth century, was the fixth fon of Thomas Hales, Efq; of Beckefbourn in Kent; and was born at that place on the 7th of September 1677. He received his education at Bennet- college Cam- bridge, where he diftinguifhed himfelf greatly by his application to his ftudies. Having taken his degrees, and entered Into orders, he was appoint- ed perpetual curate of Teddington in Middlefex. In 1718, he was chofen a fellow of the Royal Society ; and about the fame time was indufled in- to the living of Porlock in the county of Somer- fet. !n 1727, he publifhed his Treatife of /%^^^- hle Statics ; and continuing to profecute the fame fubjcct with unwearied diligence,, he printed, in 1733, a fecond part, called Statical Ejfays. In 174^, he favoured the public with an account of his Ventilators \ and thele, though at firft they m.ct

VcL. V. G with

146 A Description of

with oppofition, were foon after brought intounn verfal ufe. In 1751, he was made clerk of the clofet to her royal highnefs, the princefs dowager of Wales ; and about two years after, was elevSt- ed a member of the Academy of Sciences at Pa- ris. This laft compliment redounded the more to his honour, as the number of foreign members ad- mitted into that fociety is limited to eight. His own merit, and the intereft of his friends, might eafily have procured him fome higher preferment in the church; but he ftudioufly declined all far- ther promotion, and devoted his time to the pro- fecution of his ftudies. He died at Teddington January the 4th, 1761, and was interred under the tower of the parifh church. A monument was afterwards eredled to his memory in Weft- ininfter-abbcy, by her royal highnefs the princefs dowager of Wales. Befides the works already mentioned, he wrote feveral other pieces, which are to be found either in the Philofophicai Tranf- actions, or in feparate pamphlets.

LAN^

[ 147 ]

LANCASHIPvE,

|ir^^l(^^ANCASHIRE was thus called from ^ T ^ its Saxon name Loncaflerfcyre, which 1e^ ^ was derived from Lancafter the county

h^^^M town. This is a maritime county, in the north-well part of England, bounded on ths north by Cumberland and Weftmoreland, on the eaft by Yorkfhire, on the fouth by Cheftiire, and -on the weft by the Irifli fea ; extending fifty-fevcn miles in length from north to fouth, thirty-two in breadth from eaft to weft, and a hundred and feventy in circum.ference.

Jn the time of the ancient Britons and Ro- mans this county was part of the large territory inhabited by the Brigantes, and there are two Ro- man military ways tnat enter it, one from Weft- moreland, and the other from Yorkfhire, Under the Saxon heptarchy it became fubjecl to the krn2:s of Northumberland. Kins; Edward the 'i'hird made it a county palatine, in favour of his fon John of Gaunt, and it has ftill a court, which fits in the dutchy chamber at Weftminfter, and -takes cognizance of all caufes, that any way con- cern the revenue belonging to that dutchy, the chief judge of which is the chancellor of the <lutchy, who is afiifted and attended by the attor- ney-general, the receiver-general, the auditor of the north and fouth parts of the dutchy, the king's ferjeant and council, the fecretary, deputy-clerk .and regifter, an uftier, deputy-uiher^ and mefien- ger; as alfo a court of chancery, appointed to

14? A Description of

hear and determine all caufes, according to feme peculiar cuftoms ufed among themfelves, which is held at Prefton. The chancellor is chief judge of this court alfo, and has proper officers under him, fuch as a vice-chancellor, an attorney-gene- ral, chief clerk, regifter and examiner j five at- tornies and clerks, a prothonotary and his deputy, and clerks of the crown and peace. p>om the time that Lancafhire was made a county palatine, the town of Lancafter gave the title of duke to a branch of the royal family, till the union of the houfesof York and Lancafter, by the marriage of king Henry the Seventh, of the Lancafter line, with Elizabeth, heirefs of the houfe of York.

The air of Lancafliire is, in general, more fe- rene than that of any other maritime county in England, on which account the inhabitants are ilrong and healthy, except near the fea-fhore, and near the bogs and fens, where fulphureous and faline effluvia, which rife on the approach of ftorms, produce fevers, fcurvies, confumptions, rheumatifmk and dropfics.

The principal rivers in this county are the Merfey, the Ribble, the Wire, and the Lon.

The Merfey rifes in the mountains of Derby- fhire, and running fouth-weft divides that county from Lancafliire j and being joined by a confider- ^ble ftream called the Gout, which parts Derby- IhiiC and Chefhire, continues its courfe along the borders of Lancafhire and Chefhire, and receiving the Taume, the Irwell, the Bollen, and feveral other fmall rivers, palles to Warrington, and from thence running weftvvard, falls into the Irifli fea at Liverpool.

The Ribble rifes in Yorkfhire, and flowing fouth-weft, enters this county at Clithero. In its courfe it is augmented by the Great Calder, the Hodder, the Darwen, and the Savock ; and

dividing

LANCASHIRE. 149

dividing Lancafhire nearly into two equal parts, falls into the Irifh lea near Prefton. At its mouth it receives a large river, formed by the conflux of the Charnock, Dov/glefs, and the Taud.

The Wire is formed by the Broke, the Little Calder, and other fmali flreams ; and directing its courfe weftvvard, difcharges itfelf into the Irifh fea, about twelve miles to the north of the mouth of the Ribble.

The Lon rifes near Kirby Lonfdale, in Weft- moreland ; and runnning fouth-wefl: is augment- ed by feveral ftreams, till it paffes by the town of Lancafter, near which it falls into the Irifh fea, at a wide channel.

The rivers of this county abound with fifh, particularly the Merfey, with fparlings and fmelts ; the Ribble, with plaice and fioundsrs; the Lon, with excellent falmon ; and the Wire, with a large fort of mufcle, called Hambleton Bookings, be- caufe they are dragged out with hooks ; and in thefe mufcles, pearls of a confiderable fize are frequently found. The Irk, a fmali river that difcharges itfelf into the Merfey, is remarkable for eels that are fo fat, that few people can eat ihem ; their extraordinary fatnefs is imputed to their feeding on the greafe and oil, prefled by a number of water mills upon this flream, out of the woollen cloth milled in them.

The principal meers, or lakes, in this county, arc the Winander, the Keningflon, and the Martin. Winander meer is the largeif, it bein^ eighteen miles in length, and two in breadth. It abounds with all forts of fifh, but is moft remark- able for the Char, which is efteemed a great de- licacy. It was formerly faid, that this fifh was found no where elfe in England ; but this is a miftake, for it has been met with in Keningfton meer, about five miles diftant from this 5 as alfo G 3 in

150 A Description of

in feveral places in Wales. It is commonly called the red char, the gilt char being a different fpe- cies ; it isof a longer and flenderer make than a trout ; for one of eighteen inches long is no more than an inch and a half broad. The back is of a greenifh olive colour, fpotted with white, and the belly is painted with red in themelters ; but that of the fpawners is quite white. Kenington meer is neiiher fo large, nor fo full of fifh as the former j but fome think the chars that are caught therein are beft.

Upon the fea coalls are found turbuts, plaice^ flounders and cod; the fea-dog, flieth fifh, and iricle-fifh, are taken upon the fands near Li- verpool ; fturgcon is caught near Warrington,, and all along the coafl are found green backs,, mullets, foais, fand-eels, lobfters, oyfters, prawns^ ihrimps, the beft and largeft cockles in England,, ihe.echim, torculars, wilks and perriwinkles, pap- fifh, and rabbit-fifh; and fuch plenty of mufcles, that the hufbandmen near the fea coafl manure- llieir ground with them.

There are feveral excellent mineral fprings in this county, of diiferent natures and qualities, one of the rnoft remarkable of which is at Latham near Ormfkirk ; this is called Maudlin's Well, and has wrought many extraordinary cures. It was v/alled in and covered at the expence of Charles, late earl of Derby, who had a family feat here. Though this fpring is not near the fea,. and is at a diflance from any fait river, it ufed to throw up great quantities of marine fhells, till miil-llones being laid upon it, that inconvenience was prevented. This fpring would be much more frequented were there better accommodations in its neighbourhood. It is faid to be impregnated with fulphur^ vitriol and ochre, mixed v/ith iron,

lapis .

LANCASHIRE. 151

lapis fcifcilis, and a marine fait, united with a bitter purging fait.

Carlton water, To called from Carlton, a vil- lage ten miles fouth-weft of Prefton. Tills wa- ter is fomewhat oF a chalybeate, and when juft taken up, has a faint fmell of fulphiir. It will curdle with foap and milk, turns white with oil of tartar, has a pink fediment with galls, and changes to a deep blue with logwood. A gallon contains two hundred and thirty-fix grains of a- white fediment, whereof one third part is earth. The fediment is of a blackifh tafte, and bitterifli in the throat, and will ferment with acids. The fait is brackifti and \QTy bitter in the throat, and it emits an acid fume with oil of vitriol j but v/ill not ferment nor change with vinegar : it is a more powerful abforbent than many other nitrous wa- ters, and three or four pints will purge brifkly.

At Wrayfholm tower, two or three miles to the fouthward of Cartmel, is a fpring, which rifes from the bottom of a rocky mountain. It is of a brackifh tafte, and turns white with oil of vi- triol, green with fyrup of violets, and brown with logwood ; but it continues clear with galls. A gallon of this water yields three hundred grains of fediment, of a faltifh tafte, and will ferment with oil of vitriol, and emit an acid fume. It purges brifkly by ftool and urine, and the com- mon people drink it from three to eight quarts. It is of great ufe in bad digeftions, lofs of appetite, and the fcurvy. It has cured the jaundice and a quartan ague j and is excellent in the green fick- iiefs.

Crickle Spaw rifes in a village of that name, a

mile from Broughton. It has a ftrong fetid fmell,

and will turn filver black in a minute. The earth

it runs over is of a fhining black, and yet it will

G 4 turn

152 A Description of

turn rags, leaves and grafs, white. A gallon

contains three hundred and twenty grains of fedi-

inent, twelve of which are earth, and the reft are

fea-falt and nitre. It is a purging fulphureous

water.

At Heigh, a village not far from Wigan, is a water, which will ferment ftrongly with any al- cali ; it will turn inky with galls, and has likewife a vitriolic talle ^ a galjon yields four ounces of fcdiment, whiqh confifts of a variegation of •white and green, with oker, fulphur, and a little copper. It works plentifully by vomit and ftoo), and v/ill flop internal bleedings.

Burnly waters will turn gsjls of a deep red in a moment, and mixed with fyrup of violets turns to a very deep green. It works powerfully by urine, and is good in fcorbutic cafes.

Handbridge is feated between Burnly and Town- ly, and has a fpring that will change galls to a faint orange colour. The fait obtained therefrom yields a fetid, penetrating fmell with fait of tar- tar. Thefe two laft waters agree with the Pohun at Spa, in containing iron and natron as their principal ingredients. It purges by ftool and urine, and is of great ufe in the gravel, fcurvy, and ob- i^ru6lions.

There is a fpring two miles from Whaley, and feven miles weft of Burnly, whofe ftream renders gold brigl)ter ; but turns all white metals black. The channel this water runs in, is lined with a bituminous ftinking fubftance. It is ftrongly impregnated with fulphur, combined with a little calcarious nitre, a mixture of fea-falt, and of ab- forbent earth 3 but we have no account of its vir- tues.

Inglewhite is a village in Lancafliire, where there iS a ftrong, fulphureous and chalybeate wa- ter.

LANCASHIRE. 153

tcr. A gallon contains twenty-four grains of fcdiment, of which nineteen are earth and oker, and five of nitre j but it will not purge, uaicfs drank with fait.

Befides thefe medicinal fprings, there is at Bar- ton, near Ormfkirk, a fpring of fait water, a quart of which will produce eight ounces of fait, tho' a quart of fea-water will yield but an ounce and a half. In many parts on the coaft near Kirk- ham,.the inhabitants gather great heaps of land, which after having lain fome time, they put into troughs, full of holes at the bottom, pour water on it, and boils that which runs into the receiver into white fait.

At AnclifF, about three miles from Wigan, is a remarkable phenomenon, called the Burning Well, the water of which is cold, and has no fmell; yet fo ftrong a vapour iffues from it, that, upon applying a candle to it, it will take fire, and the top of the water be covered with a flame like that of fpirits, which will continue burning a whole day, j:nd emits fo fierce a heat, th:;t eggs, and even fiefh meat, may be boiled over it ; yet, the water being taken out of the well, will not emit vapour in a fufficient quantity to catch fire. This well is but a few yards diilant from a rich coal mine, and the inflammable vapour is un- doubtedly a petrolium, quite difl:incl from that of fulphur.

After mentioning the rivers and remarkable fprings of this county, it will be proper to give an account of an artificial river or canal, of a very extraordinary nature, formed for an inland navi-- ■gation. This is the duke of Bridgewater's mag- nificent work near IManchef^er, which is perhaps the greateft artificial curiohty of its kind in the world. It is a fubterranean canal, conitructed to G ^ convey

154 J D^ scRiprtoU of

convey coals from the bottom of the pits to IVlan- chefter and other places. It begins at Woifley mill, about feven miles from the laft mentioned town, where, at the foot of a large mountain, i;^ a bafon that forms a great body of water, which ferves as a refervoir or head to this navigation ; and from it a fubterranean pafTage is formed under the mountain, large enough for flat-bottomed boats, fifty feet long, and four and a half broad, to pafs to the mines, by the light of candles, la proceeding through his pafTage, the boat is towed on each hand by a rail, for the fpace of a thoufand yards, or near three quarters of a mile, under the iTiountain, before you come to the coal works. The paffage then dividing, one branch continues in a ftrait line, three hundred yards farther, a- mong the coal works, while another turns offy and extends three hundred yards to the hft. Kcnce thofe who go both paffages, go by water near three miles under ground, before they return, The palfages in thofe parts, where there were coals or loofe earth, are arched over with brick 5- and in other the arches are cut out of the rock. At certain diftances there are niches on the fide of the arch, with funnels or openings through the rock to the top of the hill, which is in fome places near thirty-feven yards perpendicular, in order to- preferve a free circulation of frefh air, and to pre- vent thofe damps ar.d exhalations that are fome- times fo deftru^tive in works of this kind, and al- fo to letdown men tov/ork, in cafe any accident ihould happen to the paflage. Befides, near the entrance of the paflage, and again farther on, there are gates to clofc up the arch, and prevent the admiliion of too much air in windy and tern- peftuous weather. The arch is at the entrance, about fix feet wide, and five feet high, from the

furfiice

LANCASHIRE. 155

furface of the water -, but on entering farther in, it grows wider ; To that in fome places boats thac are going to and fro, can eafily pafs each other ; and when you come among the pits, the arch is ten feet wide.

Coals are brought from the pits to this canal in little low waggons that hold near a ton each ; and as the works are on the defcent, are eafily puihed forward by a man on a railed way, to a ftage over the canal, and then fhot into one of the above-menticned boats, each of which holds about eight tons. One of thefe boats, thus loaded, is conveyed thro' the paiTage, by means of the rails, by a fmgle man, to the hafon at its mouth, where four, five, or fix of thefe boats, being linked to- gether, are drawn by one horfe, or two mules, by the fide of the canal, to all the places to which the canal is conveyed. About fifty of thefe nar- row boats are employed, befides a confiderable number of large ones, that hold about fifty tons each, and are likevvife drawn by one horfe.

The various ufes to which the canal is employ- ed, is amazing. It ferves to drain the coal pits of water, which would otherwife obftructthe works; arid near the mouth of the fubterranean paiTage is an overfhot mill, fo admirably contrived, as to work by the force of the current three piir of grind-ftones for corn, a dreffing or bolting mill, aiid a machine for fifting fand, and compounding mortar for the works carried on. The bolting mill is made of wire, of different degrees of fine- nefs, and atone and the fame time difcharges the finelt: flour, the middling furt, the courfe flour, the pollard, and the bran, without turning round, the work being effected by bruflies of hogs briftles v/ithin the wire. The mortar is made by a large ftone laid horizontally, and turned by a cog- wheel underneath it 3 this ftonc, on which the

mgxcAr

156 >/ Description o/

mortar is laid, turns in its courfe two other ftone? that are placed upon it obliquely, and, by their weight and fri6lion, work the mortar under- neath, which is tempered, and taken ofFby a man employed for that purpofe.

From the above bafon a canal extends to Man- chefter, which is nine miles by water, though but feven by land. It is broad enough for two barges to pais each other, or go a-brealt ; and oa one fide of it is a good road for the pafiage of the horfes and mules that draw the boats and barges. To perfe<5l this canal without impeding the public roads, bridges are built over it j and where the earth has been raifed to preferve the level, arches are formed under it : all of which are built chieflv of flone, and are both elegant and durable : but what principally flrikes every obferver, is a work raifed near Barton bridge, to convey the canal over the river Merfey. This is done by means of three flone arches, fo fpacious and lofty, as ta admit a veflel failing through them ; and indeed nothing can be more fmgular and pleafing, than to obferve large vefTels in full fail under the aquedu6i:» and at the fame time, the duke of Bridgewater's vcfTels failing over all, near fifty feet above that navigable river. At convenient diflances there are, befides the canal, receptacles for the fuper- fluous water; and at the bottom of the canal> machines conflrudled on very Hmple principles,, and placed at proper diflances, to flop and pre- ferve tiic water, in cafe any p?.rt of the bank fhould happen to break down. The aquedu6l is perfected as far as Manchefter, where coals are brought from the mine in great plenty, and ano- ther Targe bafon is making there, for the reception of the vefiels employed in this work.

There is likewife another canal, which takes its rife from that we have defcribed near Barton

bridge.

LANCASHIRE. 157

brldo-e, and goes to Stratford. In the execution of this wo'-k, fuch judgment and oeconomy have been obfervcd, that the refufe of one part is made to conibucl the material parts of another : thus, the ftone, which was dug up to form a bafon for the boats at the foot of the mountain, with that taken out of the rock, to form the fubterraneous pafTage, is hewn into different forms, and dimen- fions for the building of bridges over the aque- du6l, and arches to raife it ; v/hiJe the clay, and other earth taken up to preferve the level in one place, are carried down the canal, to raife the land to a level in another. In fhort, grandeur, elegance, and oeconomy, are here happily united, and the whole executed at an expence by no means ade- quate to the importance of the undertaking.

The foil on the weft fide of this county yields great plenty of wheat and barley ; and though the hilly tradls on the eaft fide are for the moft part ftony and barren, yet the bottom of thofe hills produce excellent oats. In fome places the land bears very good hemp, and the pafture is fo rich, that thecovvs and oxen are of a very extraordina- ry fize ; and their horns wider and bigger than in any other county in England. Lancaihire has alfo mines of copper, lead, and iron, of antimony, black-lead, and Lapis Calaminaris ; alfo quarries of ftone for building. Here is likewife great plenty of coal, and a particular fpecies, called Cannel, or Candle-coal, which is chiefly found rear Wigan, and is fuppofed to receive its name from the clear and fteady light it gives in burning. This coal will not only make a much brighter fire than other kinds of coal, but is of fo firm a tex- ture, as to bear turning, and be capable of re- ceiving a good polifh, when it has the appearance of black marble ; whence cups, candlefticks, ftandifhes, f.Uis, and ether things are made of it.

And

158 A Description 0/

and thefe have not only a very agreeable appearance, but will not foil the fingers. In fome of the coal- pits are found green vitriol, brimftone, and alum. The mofles, or bogs of this county, are, like thofe of Cheftiire, diftinguifhed into three kinds, the vi^hite, the black, and the grey ; all which be- ina; properly drained, bear good corn. T'hey like- wife yield turf for fuel, and marie proper for ma- nuring the ground. In thefe moffes, trees are fometinies found lying buried ; and the people make ufe of poles and fpits to difcover where they lie. Some are of opinion, that thefe trees have lain there ever fince the univerfal deluge ; and fome would have them to be mineral produdlions, which is altogether improbable, fome of them be- ing found with roots, and thofe that have none, appear either to have been burnt, or have the marks of the ax ftill vifibic. Thefe trees v/hen dug up ferve for firing, for they burn like a torch, which fome fuppofe to be owing to the bituminous flratum in which they lie ; but others to the tur- pentine which tkey contain, they being generally of the fir kind.

About Latham is found a bituminous earth, which yields a fcent much like the oil of amber > and an oil may be extracted from it, which in moft of its valuable qualities, is little inferior to that of amber. The country people cut this kind of bitumen into pieces, which they burn infteaJ of candles.

Among the vegetables that grow v/ild in this county are the following.

The leail: Tway blade, BlfoUum Tninimum^ ob- i^rved upon Pendle-hill among the heath.

Wild-heiiTt-cherry tree, commonly called the Merry tree, Cerafus fy'lvejlris fru^tu minima cordi- formic P. B. About Bury and Manchefter.

Small fea fcurvy-grafs with a cornered leaf,

CochUaria

LANCASHIRE. 159

Cochlear la 7?iartna folio aiigulofo par-vOj D. Lawfon. In the Ifle of Wainey.

Jagged fleabane-mullet, or marfh-flcabane, Conyza helenitis foliis lacmlatis. In the ditches about Pillinmofs, plentifully.

Prickly famphire, or fea-parfnep, Crlthmu?n fpinofurn^ Ger. fnarttifnu?n fpinofum, C. B. At Roofbeck in Low Fournei's.

Sea buglofs, Echium marlnum^ P. B. Buglof- Jvjn duke ex infulis Lancajhiae^ Park. Over againft Bigger in the Ifle of Wainey, plentifully.

Small jagged yellow rocket of the Ifle of Man, Eruca Monenfis laclniata lutea^ Cat. Ang. Be- tween Marfh-Grange and the Ifle of Wainey.

Bloody cranes-bill, with a variegated flower. Geranium haematodes Lancajirenfe^ Jlore eleganter jhlatQ. In the Ifle of Wainey, in a fandy foil near the fea-fnore.

Hares-tail-ru(h, mofs-crops, yuneus Alpinus cutn Cauda leporina^ J. B. Upon the mofles.

Purple-goats-beard, Rofmarinum purpuremn^ On the banks of the river Chalder.

On the coafls of this county are frequently ob- ferved many extraordinary birds, as the fea crow, which is dillinguilhed by its blue body, its black head and wings, and by its feeding upon mufcles; the afper, which is a fpecies of fea eagle ; the ra- zor-bill ; the puffing ; the cormorant ; the cur- lew-hiip; the Gopped-wren, which is faid to be fond of a red colour ; the red-fhanks ; king's fifxier J heighough ; and perrs ; befides fwans, ducks, teil, and other common birds.

This county is divided into fix' hundreds, and has no city, and only twenty-feven market tovv^ns. It lies in the province of York and diocefe of Cheflier, and contains fixty-three pariflies, which are, in general, much larger than thofe of any

other

i6o A Description of

other county in England, and very populous ; for which reafjn there are many chapels in the coun- ty, feveral of which are as large as parifh churches. It fends fourteen members to parliament, iwa knights of the fhire, and two reprefentatives for each of the following boroughs. Lancafter, Li- verpool, Prefton, Newton, Wigan, and Cli- thero.

We fhall now enter this county by the road which leads from London'to Lancailer, and fliall: begin with Warrington, which is fituated in the midway between Liverpool and Manchefler, about eighteen miles from each, fifty to the fouthward of Lancafter, and a hundred and eigh- ty-two north-weft of London. It is a pretty large, neat, old built, but populous and rich town, feated on the river Merfey, over v/hich it has a ftone bridge, that was partly pulled down in. the laft rebellion, to intercept the rebels. It is not incorporated, but governed by the juftices of peace and four conftables. It has one large church, and a very large and elegant chapel of eafe, lately built with ftone. Here is aconfiderable manufac- tory of fail-cloth, a large houfe for fmelting of coppsr-ore, a glafs-houle both for bottles and flint glafs, which is here alfo neatly cut ; a fugar- houfe, and a brev/ery for exportation, the beer of which is excellent ; and in its neighbourhood is a fme linen manufactory of huckabacks, of which it is faid that ';oo 1. worth or more, are fold Vv'eek- Jy at the market here. In this town is alfo a free- fchool, and theie has been lately ereded a large and elegant building, as an academy for the educa- tion of youth in ail branches of literature, v/hich is carried on by feveral mafters, under the diredlion, and fupported by the fubfcription of many gentle- men of fortune in the neighbourhood. Here is al- fo a charity fcoool, ia which twenty-four boys are

taught

LANCASHIRE. i6i

taught and clothed, out of an cflate given by Pe^ ter Lee, Efq; The market days are here on Wed- nefdays and Saturdays, but that onWednefdays is the moft confidcrable. Here are alfo two fairs, namely, on the 1 8th of July, and the 30th of November, for horfes, horned cattle and cloth.

At the bridge end near Warrington was a priory of Auguftine friars, founded before the year 1379.

From Warrington a road extends eallward to Liverpool, Leverpool, or Lirpool, which is. feated on the caft bank of the river Merfey, eighteen miles vvefl: of Warrington, forty fouth of Lancailcr, and two hundred north-weft of Lon- don. 71iis is a large, populous, and neat town, yet feems to have been very inconfiderable in for- mer times, and is fcarce mentioned in hiftory, ex- cept when prince Rupert took it by ftorm in the great rebellion, as he was marching to the relief of that illuftrious heroine the countefs of Derby, then befieged in Latham-houfe by the parliament forces. But within thefe fifty years, it hath en- crcafcd fo prodigioufiy in trade, that it is now faid to be the greateil: fea-portin England, except Lon- don, it being thought to exceed even Briftol. 71ie. merchants here trade to all parts, except Turkey and the Eaft-Indies ; but their moft beneficial trade is to Guinea and the Weft-Indies, by which many have raifed great fortunes. The encreafe of its trade (or a century paft cannot be better afcer- tained, than by a view of the number of iliipping belonging to the town, or which have been cleared out at the port, for any two years at any confidc- rable diftance of time. In 1565, the trade of the place feems to have been carried on folely by their own fhips and boats, of which they had twelve, that in the whole amounted to no more than two hundred and twenty-three tons, and they employ- ed but fcventy-five feamen. There were then in

the

i62 ^ Description £/*

the town only one hundred and thirty-eight houf- holders and cottagers, as appears by the town's book, folio one hundred and forty-four : whereas from the 24th of June, 1762, to the 24th of June 1763, the following fhips were cleared.

Ships Tons

From Great Britain and Ireland 1496 42840

Danes, Swedes, Ruffians, Sic, 85 134 18

Africa and America * 171 25193

1752 81451 An amazing encreafe of commerce ! to which let it be added, that this town feldom employs lefs than one hundred and twenty fhips in the Guinea trade only, and in the laft war Liverpool did mors bufmefs in that trade than all the ports In Europe. This encreafe of commerce has drawn fuch num- bers of people to the town, that for many years paft their buildings have encreafed after the rate of two hundred houfes a year, fo that inflead of one hundred and thirty-eight houfes and cottages, as mentioned above, there are now more than fix thoufand, and many of them capital buildings. Here are alfo fome manufadlories of note, parti- cularly one for fail- cloth, two for preparing filk, one for china-ware, feveral pot-houfes, which make very fine ware, fome falt-works that do a great deal of bufinefs, feveral glafs-houfes, a num- ber of public brewers, fome of whom brew large quantities for exportation, and feveral wet and dry docks for the building and refitting of fhips.

Liverpool was once in the parifh of Walton, but is now feparated from it by adl of parliament, yet pays to the redlor of Walton forty fhillings per annum. There are four churches in the town, viz. St. Peter's, St. Nicholas's, St. George's, and St. Thomas's, St. George's and St. Thomas's

LANCASHIRE. 163

are In the gift of the corporation. There are two chaplains at St. George's, v/ho have each 120 1. a year. St. Nicholas's chapel, or the old church, ftands near the river, and confifts of a nave or chancel, and fide iiles. In it is a fmall organ, and at the eaft end, within the church, are two monuments, for the two Mr. Cleveland's, father and fon, formerly members for the town j and befides feveral others, there is one in the chancel for Mrs. Clayton. At the weft end is a fleeple, which confiih of a low tower, on which a fpire has been lately erefted. St. Peter's con- fifts of a nave, a chancel, and two fide ifles ; and has a tower at the weft end. Thefe two churches are a joint rectory, in the gift of the corporation. There are two re£lors, who have each 150 1. per annum, and officiate at them alternately ; they have likewife furplice fees of the whole town ;^ fees are alfo paid to the minifters who do the duty of the other churches. St. George's chapel or church ftands in the New market. It confifts of a nave, a chancel, two fide ifles, and has a lofty fpire at the weft end. This is a beautiful fabric, the organ cafe, front of the galleries, pulpit and defk are of mahogany, and round the church is a noble pallifadeof iron work. The mayor and cor- poration go to this church. St. Thomas's chapel or church ftands near Prince's Square ; and con- fifts of a nave, a chancel, and two fide ifies, with a lofty fpire at the weft end. An act was pafled a few years ago to enable the inhabitants to build two churches more, one of which was, foon after begun near the ladies walks, a verypleafant place, which commands a fine view of the river and the Cheftiire Ihore.

There are two Prefbyterian meeting-houfes, and a divifion lately arifing among that fed, fome of them erected a new meeting- houfe, called the

Odagon^

j54 ^ Description of

Octagon, from the form of the building, where they Life a liturgy different from that of the church of England, and have an organ. There are alfo two meeting-houfes for the Baptifts, one for the Quakers, and one for the Methodifts. There is a large mafs-houfe in Lombard-ftreet, the Catho- lics being very numerous, and there is likewife a fynagogue for the Jews.

The Exchange, which coft 30,000!. and is ere6led on the fpot where the town-houfe ftood, is at the top of Water-flreet, and is a grand edifice of white ftone, built in the form of a fquare, round which are piazzas for the merchants to walk in. Above ftairs are the mayor's offices, the felTions- hall, the council-chamber, and two elegant ball rooms ; but this edifice is entirely hid on tv/o fides of the fquare by the adjoining houfes.

The charity-fchool fcands near St. Peter's church, and is a very handfome flrufliure of brick and ftone, with iron pallifades before it, the gift of one Mr. Martindale of this town. The Infirma- ry, and the failors hofpital, is a large edifice of brick and flone, and ftands on a hill, in a very pleafant, airy fituation, at a diftance from the town. There is alfo a work-houfe for employing the poor. The cuftom-houfe is a neat building of brick and ftone, fituated at the head of one of the docks. There are three large and commodi- ous docks, fecured by iron gates, thro' which (hips fail, on their coming to the town. In thefe docks they lie clofe to the fhore, and land their goods with the greateft facility ; and the gates being (hut, they are fecured from winter ftorms. There is alfo a new playhoufe in Drury-lane, where players per- form in the fummer feafon.

Liverpool is governed by a mayor, annually chofen on St. Luke's day, a recorder, and common council of forty-one, including the mayor, re- corder.

LANCASHIRE. 165

Gorder, and town clerk. The tov*^n lying lov/, it is fomevvhat dirty in the winter. The beft houfes are in Hanover-ftreet. There are two mar- kets, held on Wednefdays and Saturdays ; and two fairs, kept on July 25, and November 11, for horfes and horned cattle. This town fends two mem.bers to parliament.

We cannot quit this place without obferving, that the ftreets are narrow and incommodious, and the v/ater is fo bad, that they are obliged to hire people to bring them frefti water in carts out of the country, at fo great an expence, that fome pf the inns pay from 20 to near 40 1. a year ^ and fome of the brewers and fugar-bakers much more. They alfo want a Trinity-houfe, like that of London, for the better regulation of pilots, as ma- ny of thofe employed in that important ferviceare mere boys, and have little experience.

It will not be improper to add here, that in the middle oi' March 1757, there was the greateit florm of wind on the weftern coaft ever known, a great number of fhips were flranded and loft in this neighbourhood, and confiderable damage done to the town, particularly about forty-two feet of the lofty fpire of St. Thomas's church, which was efteemed one of the moft beautiful in Eu- rope, fell upon the body of the church, broke through the roof, and tore down the weft galle- ries.

We fhall now return back to V/arrington, be- tween which and Liverpool is Prescot, a fmall market town, eight miles eaft of Liverpool, and a hundred and ninety-one north-north-weft of London. The market is en Tuefdays, and it has two fairs, on June 12, and November i, for horned cattle, horfes and toys.

From Warringtor* a road extends north- weft- jvard to Newton, which is feated five miles

north

1 66 yfDESCRIPTION of

north of Warrington, and a hundred and eighty- feven north- weft of London, and is an ancient borough by prefcription, governed by a fleward, bailiff", and burgefl'es, and fends two members to parliament, v/ho are returned by the fteward of the lord of the manor. Here is a charity-fchool founded in 1707, by Mr. Hornby, who endowed it with 2000 1. Here children are taught to read, write, and caft accounls ; and are allowed a din- ner every fchool-day ; and there are ten boys and as many girls lodged in a neighbouring hofpital, where they are provided with all forts of neceilu- ries, till they are fourteen years of age. The town had once a market, which is now difufed ; but it has two fairs, on May 17, and Auguft 12, for horfes, horned cattle, and toys.

Leigh, a fmall town, fituated ten miles north of Warrington, and a hundred and ninety- two from London, is of fmall account j for the mar- ket is very inco^fiderable, and it has no fair.

On proceeding from Newton, in the road to Lancafter, we come to Wigan, which is plea- fan tly feated near the fource of the river Dowglafs, at the diftance of thirteen miles to the northward of Warrington, thirty-nine miles fouth of Lan- cafter, and a hundred and ninety-five north-norlh- weft of London. It was erected into a corpora- tion by charters granted by queen Elizabeth and king Charles the Second, and is governed by a mayor, a recorder, twelve aldermen, two bailiffs, and a fword and mace bearer. It is a neat, well built town, three quarters of a mile in length, and has a ftately church, one of the beft endowed in the county ; and the reclor of it is always lord of the manor. It is famous for the manufactures of coverlets, ruggs, blankets, and other forts of bedding ; and alfo for its iron works, and pit- coal, called Kennel'Coal, which we have already

men-

LANCASHIRE. 167

mentioned in fpeaking of the produce of this county. There are here likewife many braziers, pewterers, dyers, and weavers. It has two mar- kets, which are held on Mondays and Fridays ; > and three fairs, which are kept on the i8th of Odober, and on Holy-Thurfday, for horfes, horned cattle, and cloth ; and on the 27th of June,, for horfes and horned cattle.

At Haigh, near this place, is a mineral fpring, of which we have already taken notice. Here is a handfome feat of the Bradfhaiglis, which is thought to be one of the fined fituations in the north of England ; and in the park is a mount, from the top of which may be ken thirteen coun- ties, and the Ifle of Man.

Before we proceed farther to the northward, we fhall make an excurfion to the weft, where, at the dillance of four miles fouth-wefl: of Wigan, we find Holland, a village, where, in the cha- pel of St. Thomas the martyr, v/as a college of fecular canons, who Vv^ere changed in the year 1 319, by Walter, bifiiop of Litchfield, at the petition of Sir Robert Holland, knight, then pa- tron, into a priory of BenedicSline monks. It confifted of one prior and twelve monks, who Avere all to wear a black habit ; and upon the death or vacation of a prior, were to elect three from among themfelves, one of v/hom being ap- proved by the patron, and prefented to the dioce- fian bifhop, v/as by him appointed their prior. It was valued at 53 1. a year by Dugdale ; but at 61 1. by Speed. Part of it is now a very hand- fome parifh church, and the reft belongs to John Owen, Efq;

At the diftance of four miles north-weft of Hol- land is Latham, which is remarkable for a houfe, which Charlotte, countefs of Derby, with the greateft bravery and intrepidity defended, for two

years,

i63 A Description of

years, againft the forces of the parliatnent, who af- t-erall could not take it. They however, at length, became mafters of it, and laid it almoft level with the ground.

Four miles north of Latham is Rufford, a village that has a fair on the firil of May, for horned cattle.

Three miles to the weft of Latham is Orm- SKIRK, a handfome *town, feated near the river Dowglafs, at the diftarice of forty miles fouth of Lancafter, and two hundred and fix north- north- weft of London. It has a good inland trade, and a market on Thurfdays, with two fairs, which are held on Whlt-Monday, and September 8, for horned cattle and horfes.

At BuRscouGH, near Ormfkirk, Robert Fitz Henry, lord of Latham, founded a priory of black canons, in the reign of Richard the P'irft, and dedicated it to St. Nicholas. This founda-- tion had at the fupprelTion of religious houfes, a prior and five religious, with forty-eight fervants, whofe annual revenue were valued at the fuppref- lion at 122 1. 5 s. 7 d.

We {hall nov/ proceed back to Wigan, and fliall again enter the road to Lancafter* About eight miles to the eaft of this road is Charley, or Chorley, which is feated on a rivulet that runs into the Yarrow, eight miles north of Wi- gan, and two hundred north-weft of London ; but is a fmall place that has a market on Satur- days, and three fairs, held on the 5th of May, and t4ie 20th of Auguft for horned cattle ; and on xX\Q 5th of September, for toys and fmall wares,

Preston, which is an abbreviation of Prieft- Town, was fo called from its being inhabited by a great number of religious, and is a large, hand' fome borough, twenty-one miles fouth of Lancafter,

and

LANCASHIRE. i6^

and two hundred and twelve north-weft of Lon- don, feated on a delightful eminence on the north fide of the river Ribble, over which is a fine ftcne bridge. It was incorporated by king Henry the Second, and is governed by a mayor, recorder, eight aldermen, four under aldermen, feventeen common council-men, and a town clerk. It rofe out of the ruins of Ribchefter, now a village, but anciently a very confiderable city in the neigh- bourhood, and is a handfome town as large as fome cities. It is a place of refidence for the of- ficers belonging to the chancery of the county pa- latine, of whom an account has been already given, and is reckoned one of the prettieft retire- ments in England. It is a very gay place, there being here aiTemblies, balls, and other diverfions ; it being frequented by people of fortune in the win- ter fcafon many miles round. The earl of Derby has a houfe here, which makes a noble appear- ance ; and the houfes, in general, are well built. The duke of Hamilton was routed here, when he brought an army from Scotland to affift king Charles the Firft, as were likewife the Englifli rebels in the year 17 15, who had taken arms againft king George the Firft, when the forces belonging to the king v/ere obliged to fet fire td the houfes in order to diflodge the rebds, who fired upon them from the roofs and windovv's, but the town was afterwards amply recompenfed by the government for the damage the inhabitants had fuftained : after which the town roie more beauti- ful than before. This happened on the 12th of- November, 17 i,, on the very day when the Scotch reb:Hs were routed in -cotland. Here is a ch'irity-lchool for twenty-eio;hi bovs, and ano- ther tor as many girls; and on the neighbouring common are freqaen: horfe-races. The markets - Vql. V. H arc

170 ^Description^

are held here on Wednefdays, Fridays, and Sa- turdays, for corn, cattle, linen cloth, and all forts of provifions, particularly fifti, with which they arefupplied by the Ribble. It has three fairs, which are held on the firft Saturday after the 6th of January, chiefly for horfes ; on the 27th of March, for horfes and horned cattle, and on the 7 th of September, for coarfe cloths and fmall wares. Befides thefe fairs, every twentieth year is held a guild or jubilee, v/hich begins the laft week in Auguft, and continues a month ; at which time perfons of the firfl rank refort hither from all parts, and even from London. On the north-weft fide of the town was a college of grey friars, founded by Edmund, eail of Lancaller, fon to king Henry the Third. Here was alfo an ancient hofpital, dedicated to St. Mary Magda- len, the mafterfhip of which was in the gift of the king.

In LoiNSDALE alfo near Prefton, was an abbey of Premonftratenfian canons, founded by Theo- bald Walter, brother of Hubert Walter, archbi- fhop of Canterbury. It was called Cockerfand abbey, and was endowed byfeveral perfons. There is nothing of it now ftanding but fome ruins of walls, and in the middle entire window-cafes of a confiderable height, which are fufficient to fhew^ that it was once a very magnificent ftru(Sl:ure. It was valued at the. diflblution at 2 81. a year.

On the other fide of the mouth of the Ribble was Marton Lake, a large and broad water, about two miles in diameter, and eighteen in cir- cumference ; but not many years ago it was drain- ed by Thomas Fleetwood, Efq; which turned out greatly to his advantage, the foil being fat and muddy, mixed with marie. In it were found a great quantity of fifli 5 but what is much more

extra-

LANCASHIRE. 171

extraordinary, there were found funk at the bot- tom eight canoes, each made of afmgletree, fome- what like thofe made ufe of by the Indians in America, in which it is fuppofed the ancient Bri- tons ufed to filh upon this lake.

At LoNRiDGE, north-eaft of Preflon, was an hofpital, confiding of a mafter and brethren, de- dicated to Jefus Chrift and the Virgin Mary.

RiBCHESTER, Or RiBBLECHESTER, WaS fltua-

ted fix miles to theeaft-north-eaft of Prefton, and is generally fuppofed to have been the Coccium of Antoninus, and the Rigodunum, or Bibodunum, of others. However, its ruins, and the many re- mains of antiquity that have been difcovered ia and near it, prove that it was once a place of great opulence and fplendor ; and fome pretend, that it was once one of the moft fiourifhing towns ia Europe, There are ftili vifibie traces of Roman military ways leading to it, one of which is a high caufevvay running hither from York ; ano- ther pafTes from the north, and is plainly to be feen for feveral miles together ; and a third pafTes to it from the mouth of the Ribble through Pref- ton. Relicks of military engines and weapons, with variety of coins, iiatues, pillars, pedeftals, funeral monuments, and altars, with infcriptions, have been frequently difcovered here. In this neighbourhood is a remarkable piece of antiquity, which has been the objedl of much fpeculation. This is an ancient fortification, near which has been dug up anchors, rings, nails, and other parts of vefiels ; whence the place is called Anchor hill. As this hill is at aconliderable diflance from the fea, it is fuppofed to have been a rampart of the fortrefs of Coccium, and that the broad and -deep to(s under it, which leads towards the river, ferved as a canal for the boats, ihat paffed and re- H 2 pafTed

172 ^Description of

pailed the river, for the fervice of the garrifon. Ill this hill have been frequently dug up Roman pate- rae or bowls, conlifting of a fubllance refembling that of china bowls, adorned with flowers and the figures of wolves, and fome of them marked at the bottom with fab. pro. which doubtjefs implies, that they were made when one of the Fabii was proconful.

At Pen WORTH AM nearPrefton was a Benedic- tine monaftery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which at the diflblution was valued by Speed at 3 15 1. a year.

Chipping, a village thirteen miles eaft of Pref- ton? has three fairs, held on Eafter-Tuefday, St. Bartholomew's day, and the 28th of Augulf, for cattle.

Seven miles to the wefl by north of Prefton is KiRKH AM, which is about two miles to the north of the mouth of the Ribble, and has a handfome church, and from the church yard i§ a fine prof- pecx of mountains at a great diftance, u^ well as of the courfe of the river, which abounds with falmon, trouts and other fifh, which, as well as other provifions, are here very cheap. This town has agrammar-fchool well endowed, by Mr. Col- born, a citizen of London, in the year 1674, and has three mafters, one of whom muft be in holv orders, and preach a ledure once a month in the mother church, or in fome chapel in the pa- rifn. 1 he town has a market on Tuefdays, and two fairs, which are held on June 24, for horfes and horned cattle, and on Oclober i8, for toys and fmail ware.

PcuL TON, or Potton, is a town near the fea fliorc, hxteen miles weii: by north of Prcllon, ten wcfi: by fourh of Ganlang, ^^nd two hundred and tv/enty-iix north -north- weft of London, It ftands

very

ToH'^/i'a./-

L A !^ C A S H I R E. in

very conveniently for trade, on a rivulet that falls into the Wire, at a fmall diftance from its mouth, and is noted for a good pearl fifhery. It has a market on Mondays, and three fairs, viz. on f'ebruary 2, for horned cattle, and on IMay 3, and July 25, for horned cattle, and fmall -vares. .. Garstang is fituated on the load from Pref- l!** ton to Lancafter, from which it is ten miles dif- tant to the fouth, eleven north of Prefton, and two hundred and twenty- three north- v^^eft of London. It is about half a mile in length,' and has a market on Thurfdays, for corn, cattle, and provifions; with three fairs, which are held on Ho- ly-Thurfday, for horned cattle, on July 21 j and December 3, for horned cattle and woollen cloth. Lancaster, the county town, derived its name from the river Lon, or Lun, on v/hich it is feated, it being called by the inhabitants Loncaf- ter. It is fituated near eight miles to the north ijpf Garftang, eighty-nine miles weO: of York, fix- -eight fouth of Carlifle, and two hundred and pthirty-two north-north-weft of London. it wai Roman ftation, and is the ancient Longovicu;n entioned in the Itenerary of Antoninus, where the Roman lieutenant of Britain kept; in garrifon a company called the Longovici. Several uten- ftls ufed in facrifice, and a variety of Roman coins, have been dug up here; and on the fleepsft fide of the hill, near the church, hangs a piece of aa old R.oman Vv'all, now called Weryvvall. The ancient town indeed was not exadly upon the fiime fpot on which Lancafter now ftands ; for the old Longovicum being destroyed by the Scots in the year 1322, the new town was built nearer the river, and is in a fine fituation, having a profpect over the harbour and country- The caftle, of which v^e have caufed a view to be engrave;^ for the fatisfadion of the reader, is thought to be H 3 one

174 ^ Description of

one of the fineft monuments of antiquity, that this kingdom can boaft of; for the ditch was made by the command of the emperor Adrian, in the year 124, and a garrifonwas placed here by him ; who, for their better fecurity, ereded a tower towards the weft. In the year 305, Con- ilantine Chlorus, father of Conftantine the Great, built another handfome tower facing the town, both of which are now ftanding. After the Nor- m'an conqueft, this caflie was confiderably enlar- ged ; and John, earl of Moreton and Lancafter, contributed the moft to its grandeur, by ereding the beautiful tower, now called theGatehoufe. Af- lerwards, when he was king, he gave audience in it to the French ambaffadors, and alio here re- ceived homage from Alexander king of the Scot?, whom he had vanquiilied. It is at prefent the county jail, and the aflizes have been held in it ricar five hundred years. On the top of this caf- ile there is afquaretower, called John of Gaunt's chair, whence there is a beautiful and e.xtenfive profpedt of the adjacent country, and of the fea. Here is but one church, which is a handfome ilrufture, with a fquare tower, and ftands on. the very top of the caftle hill . Here are alfo a cuftom- houfe, and a ftone bridge of five arches over the river Lon ; but the port is fo choaked with fand, that it will not admit of (hips of any confiderable burden. It has however fome trade to America, in which veiTels of feventy tons burden are em- ployed, and the inhabitants export thither hard- ware and woollen manufactures ; but they would probably have more trade, if the country about it was not fo thinly peopled, on account of its bar- rennefs, v/hich occafions the demand for fugars and other commodities brought back from Ame- rica to be but fmall. Camden informs us, that, in his time,, the town was not populous, and that

the

LANCASHIRE. 175

theinhabltants were all hufbandmen; butatprefent the cafe is very much altered, it being well inha- bited, and is a thriving place. The corporation confifls of a mayor, a recorder, feven aldermen, two bailiffs, twelve capital burgefles, twelve com- mon burgefles, a town clerk, and two ferjeants at mace ; and the members to ferve in parliament are ele6ted by the majority of freemen. King John confirmed to the burgelTcs all the liberties he had granted to thofe of the city of Briflol ; and king Edward the Third granted to the mayor and bailiffs, the privilege of having the pleas and [e{- fions held here, and no where elfe in the county. This town has given the t;itle of duke to many branches of the royal family. It has a market 011 Saturdays, and three fairs, which are held on the firfl of May, for cattle, cheefe, and pedlars goods ; on the 5th of July, for cattle, cheefe, pedlars goods and wool ; and on the loth of Octo- ber, for cattle, pedlars goods and cheefe.

It is worthy of remark, that earl Rogers of Poidiers, in the year IC94, gave the church of St. Mary at Lancafter, with fome lands here, to the abbey of St. Martin de Sagio, or Sees, in Normandy ; upon which a prior and five Bene- didtine monks from thence vv^ere placed at Lancaf- ter, who with three priefts, two clerks and fer- vants, made up a fmall monaflery, fubordinate to the foreign houfe, which was endowed with the yearly revenue of about 80 1. After the difTolu- tion of alien priories, this, with the lands belong- ing to it, was annexed by king Henry the Fifth, to Sion abbey in Middlefex. There was a Francif- can convent near the bridge, but we are not in- formed of any particulars concerning it.

Here was likewife a houfe of Dominican, or

black friars, founded by Sir Hugh Harrington,

knightj about the fourth year of king Henry the

^ H 4 Thirds

176 A Descripti©n cf

Third ; and alfo an hofpital dedicated to St. Leo- nard, for a mafter, chaplain and nine poor per- sons, three of whom were to be lepers. This was founded by king John while he was earl of Mor- ton ; but Henry duke of Lancafter, in about the thirtieth year of the reign of Edward the Third, annexed it to the nunnery of Seton in Cumberland. At the diftance of about five miles from Lancaf- ter is a remarkable cave, called Dunald Mill- hole : a brook nearly as big as the New River, after turning a corn mill at the entrance of the cave, runs into its mouth by feveral beautiful caf- caues, continuing its courfe two miles under a large mountain, and_^at lafl: makes its appearance again near Carnford, a village in the road to Ken- da!. The entrance into this cavern has fome* thing pleafmgly terrible : from the mill at the top you defcend about ten yards perpendicular by iTieans of chinks in the rock, and clumps of trees ; the paffage is then alrnofi: parallel to the horizon, leading to the right a little winding, till you have feme hundreds of yards thick of rocks and mine- rals above your head. " In this manner, fays " our author, we proceeded, fometimes through *' vaults, fo capacious, that we could neither lee «^ the roof nor fides, and fometimes on all-four, *' ftill following the brook, which entertained us " v^'ith a fort of harmony well fuiting the place , " for the different heights of its falls were as fo " many keys of mufic, which being all conveyed " to us by an amazing echo, greatly added to the " majedic horror which furrounded us. In our '* return we were more particular in our obferva- " tions. The falls from one rock to another " broke the rays of our candles, fo as to form the " moil romantic vibrations and appearances upon '^ the variegated roof. The fides too are not \^{s " remarkable for their fine colouring \ the damps,

the

LANCASHIRE. 177

«' the creeping vegetables, and the feams in the *' marble and lime-ftone parts of the rocks, form *' as many tints as are (een in the rainbow, ?.• d *' are covered with a perpetual varnifli from the *' jufi vi^eeping fprings that trickle from the roof. *' When we arrived at ihe mouth, and once more *' beheld the chearing day-light, I could not but <' admire the uncouth manner in which nature '' has thrown together the huge rocks which com- *' pofe the arch over the entrance ; but, as if " confcious of its rudenefs, (he has clothed it '' with trees and fhrubs of the moll various and '« beautiful verdure, v.'hich bend downv/ards, and " with their leaves cover all the rugged parts of «' the rock."

From Lancafter a road extends north -weft to an arm of the fea, which is crofled to a diftincl and feparate part of the county, called Fournefs, almoft furrounded by Weftmoreland, Cumberland, and the Irifh fea, where the firft town we meet with is Cartmel, which lies among fome hills called Cartmel Fells, at the diftance of fourteen miles north-v/eft of Lancafter. The town, which has a harbour for boats, lies between tv/o bays of the fea, one formed by the mouth of the river Ken, which flows from Weftmoreland, and the other by the conflux of feveral fmall rivers, from Weftmoreland and Cumberland, into the iriih fea. There aix near it three fands, one term.cd Ken Sand, from the river Ken ; another called Leven Sand, from a river of the fame name ; and the third, on the li.-.e account, called Dudden Sand. Thefe fands, which travellers frequently pafs at low water, on account of their being the Ihorteft way to the places to which they are go- ing, are very dangerous, both on account of the uncertainty of the tides, which are quicker or flower, as the winds blow more or leis from the H 5 fea ;

J 78 J D EscvLiPfi 01^ of

iea;- and from the many quickfands ; upon which account there is a guide on horfeback appointed to each fand, for the dire6tion of fuch perfons as have occafion to pafs over ; and each of thefe three guides has a faiary paid him by the govern- ment.

Cartmel is moft remarkable for its priory of canons regular of the order of St. Auftin, dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary, founded by William Marefchall, earl of Pembroke, in the year 1188, and endowed by him, on condition that they fhould not be fubje(3: to any other houfe, and that they fliould ele6t their prior from among them- fclves ; and alfo that the priory fhould never be made an abbey. About the time of the diflblu- tion here were reckoned ten religious, and thirty- eight fervants, whofe revenues v/ere valued at 124 1. 2 s. a year. The church of this priory is jiow turned into a very large and beautiful parifli church, which is kept in excellent repair. The town has a market on Mondays, for corn, fheep and fifli ', and two fairs, which are held on Whit- fon-Monday, and the firft Tuefday after Odober 23, for pedlars goods.

About fix miles to the weft of Cartmel is Ul- VERSTON, which is likewife fituated in Fournefsj and ftands on the weft fide of a large bay, that runs up thro' this part of the county, and is chiefly memorable on account of a moiety of it being given by Edward the Third to John Coup- land, one of the moft warlike men of the age, whom he alfo advanced to the honour of a knight banoret, for taking David the Second, king of Scots, prifoner, in a battle at Durham. Ulver- fton has a market on Thurfdays, and two fairSj on Holy-Thurfday, and the firft Thurfday after Odober 23, for pedlars goodso

About

LANCASHIRE. 179

About three miles fouth-weft of Ulverflon is Dalton, a town in Fournefs, eighteen miles to the fouth-weft of Hawkfhcad, which has a market on Saturdays, and two fairs, one on the 6th of June, for horned cattle, and the other on the 23d of 06lober, for horned cattle, horfes, and pedlars goods.

Near Dalton is Kirby Ireleth, whofe ma- nor-houfe is called Kirby Crofs Houfe, from a crofs which anciently flood before the gate, till Sandys, archbifhop of York, ordered the top of it to be broken off. This houfe is now a liately feat of the Kirbies. There formerly happened here fuch a violent eruption of water, as carried the houfes before it, and fwept away fragments of rocks of fuch a magnitude, that the united force of many teams of oxen were unable to move them.

Upon the promontory of Fournefs, are to be feen the ruins of Forenefs abbey, which was founded in the year 1127, by Stephen, earl of Morton and Boloign ; afterwards king of Eng- land. The monks of this houfe were tranflated from Tulket in Aldernefs hither. They obferv- ed the rules of St. Bennet, and wore a griflet hair coloured habit. William de Moubrey, the third earl of Lancafter, and Agnes de Brufs his wife, Michael Flemming, &c. were large benefadors to this abbey. Pope Eugenius granted to John Abbot, of St. Mary's in Fournefs, and his bre- thren, a full confirmation of all their poffeflions, with an immunity from all tithes, for either cat- tle or lands held in their own hands. Its annual value according to Dugdale was 805 1. 10 s. and according to Speed, 966 1. 7 s.

At the fouth-weft extremity of the fame pro- montory of Forenefs is a long and narrow ifland, called the Ifle of Walney, divided from the country by a fmall arm of the fsa. It is remark -

able.

jPo y/ Description <?/

able, that the land of this ifland is trebled in va- lue, by manuring their clay with Tea fand. Upon a rock, near the fouth end of this ifland, is Pile, or Peele caftle, fometimes called the Pile of Fow- drey. King Stephen granted this ifland to the abbot of Fournefs, on condition that he fhould build and maintain a caftle upon it for the de- fence of the country ; but king Henry the Firft, in the year 1403, caufed it to be feized, becaufe the abbot fuffered it to go to decay ; but on his promife to repair it, it was re-delivered to him. It was furrounded by a wall, of v/hich there are large remains, and a great part of the caftle itfelf is ftill ftanding, which (hew, that it was once a very beautiful ftru6lure : there being now to be feen lofty pillars, fpacious windows, noble arches, and fubterraneous vaults. Of thefe ruins we have given a view, for the fatisfa6tion of the curious reader.

Gleastok is a village in Fournefs, tv/o miles fouth of Dalton, remarkable only for its caftle, fuppofed to be built in the reign of Edward the Third, about the year 1340, to prevent the fre- quent inroads of the Scots into England. Upon the beheading of the duke of Suffolk, the pro- prietor, in the reign of queen Mary, it became forfeited to the crov/n. It now belongs to the fa- mily of the Lowthers. The ruins that yet re- main, fhew it was a fpacious and handfome build- ing.

Hawkshead is another town in Fournefs, on the weft fide of Winander meer, on the northern borders of the county, two hundred and fifty-flx miles from London. Here is a free grammar- fchooT, endowed by Edwin Sandys, archbiftiop of Can- terbury. It has a market on Mondays, for provi- fions and v/ooUen cloth, and two fairs, namely.

VoLKpa.jflo.

LANCASHIRE. i8i

on IIoly-Thurfday, for horned cattle and pedlars goods 5 and on September 21, for pedlars ware.

The above Edwin Sandys, fucceflively bifliop of Worcefter and London, and archbifhop of York, the anceftor of the prefent lord Sandys, was born in the year 1519. He had his education in St. John's college, and Catharine hall in Cambridge, where he took his degrees in arts and divinity. In the reign of king Edward the Sixth he was vicar of Haverfham, prebendary of Peterborough, and of Carl-ifle, and vice-chancellor of the univerfity of Cambridge ; but, joining with the party of the lady Jane Grey, he was dripped, by queen Ma- ry, of all his dignities and preferments, and thrown into the Tov/er, where he remained (tvea months. Upon his enlargement, he retired into foreign countries ; but returning to England at the acceflion of queen Elizabeth, he was promot- ed, firfl to the bifhopric of Worcefter, then to that of London, and laft of all, to the archiepifco- pal fee of York. During his continuance in this high ftation, he was unjuftly attacked by fome gentlemen of the county, who wanted to rob him of part of his temporalities ; and who, being at length difappointed in their facrilegious defign, formed a moft villainous fcheme for ruining his reputation, by making an inn-keeper's wife at Doncafter get into bed to him. The confpiracy, hov/ever, was afterwards difcovered, and the de- linquents brought to condign punifhment. This learned prelate died on the loth of July, 1588, in the 69th year of his age. His fermons were pub- lifhed after his death.

We fhall now return back to the fouthern part of this county, which we fhall enter farther to the eaftvvard, by paffing the river Merfey at Stockport, and proceeding to Manchester, the firft town of any confequence on this road, and

indeed

ig2 ^ Description £/^

indeed the moft confiderable place, next to Liver- pool, in the whole county, and the finefl; village, or meer market town, in England ; for though its chief magiftrate is only a conftable or headbo- rough, yet it is more populous than either York or Norwich, and indeed than moft other cities in this kingdom. Manchefter is the ancient Man- cunium or Manutium of Antoninus's itinerary, a name which fome fuppofe to have been original- ly derived from Main, which, in the Britifti tono-ue, fignifies a rock or ftone, which might have been applied to this town, from its fituation on a rocky foil near a famous quarry, called Coly- hurft. It ftands near the conflux of the rivers Irk and Irwell, about three miles north of the Merfey, eighteen miles eaft-north-eaft of War- rington, thirty-feven north-eaft of Chefter, fixty- eight weft-fouth-weft of York, and a hundred and eighty-fix north-north-weft of London. This town has many handfome and elegant houfes, and fome new ftreets, fcarcely inferior in beauty to the fineft in London. Among its public build- ings is the Exchange, a very noble ftru6lure, adorn- ed with columns and pilafters of the Ionic order, and three parifli churclies, of which St. Mary's is a collegiate church, built in 1422, and is a large, beautiful and ftately edifice, with a choir, remark- able for its curious carved work, and a clock that fhews the age of the moon. With refpedt to the college belonging to this church, it will be proper to obferve, that Thomas Weft, brother to the lord de la War, fome time redor of the parifh church of Manchefter, obtaining the barony and eftate of his family, by the death of his brother without iffue, founded this college, dedicated it to the Virgin Mary, St. Dennis of France, and St. George, and endowed it with revenues to the yearly value of 200 1. or, as they were afterwards

valued

LANCASHIRE. 183

valued at the fuppreflion, at 226 1. I2S, 5 d. in the whole, and 213 1. los. 11 d. clear. It ori- ginally confifted of a warden, and a certain num- ber of priefts. At the time of its diflblution, Ed- ward the Sixth granted the lands and revenues to the earl of Derby, who purchafed the college- houfe. Queen Mary refounded it, and reflored moft of the lands and revenues. It was alfo found- ed a new by queen Elizabeth, in the nineteenth year of her reign, for a warden and four fellows, two chaplains, four finging men, and four cho- rifters ; and dedicated by the name of Chrift's college. It was again re-eflablifhed by Charles the Firfl, when the ftatutes were drawn up by archbifliop Laud. In Oliver Cromwell's time, it was fold by the parliament with the chapter lands, but rcftored by king Charles the Second. By an a6t of parliament pafTed in 1729, the king is im- powered to be vifitor of this college, whenever the warden of it happens to be bifhop of Chefter.

With refpecEl to St. Anne's church, it is a mo- dern ftrufture, eredled in an elegant tafte, and adorned with pilafters, two ranges of femicircu- lar windows, and a handfome balluftrade round the top, which fupports a number of vafes. Its tower alfo makes a neat and agreeable appear- ance, and the whole building is feen to great ad- vantage, by its forming one fide of St. Anne's fquare, which is encompafled on every other fide with handfome houfes. This church was begun by the contribution of the inhabitants, in the reign of queen Ann, and fiiiifhed in the year 1723. There are here alfo feveral meeting-houfes of diflenters.

The hofpital was founded by Humphrey Chet- ham, Efqj and incorporated by Charles the Se- cond, for the maintenance of forty poor boys; but the governors have enlarged the number to

fixty.

184 A Description of

fixty, who are to be taken in between fix and itn years of age, and maintained, lodged and cloath- ed till they are fourteen, v/hen they are to be bound out apprentices at the charge of the hofpital^ and for their fupport he left 420 1. a year, which by prudent management is confiderably improved. Here alfo, by the bounty of the fame benefa£i:or, is ere(3:ed a large fchool for the hofpital, or blue boys, where they are taught to read and write j as alfo a large library furnifhed with feveral thou- fand volumes, the number of which are always cncreafing, there being left by him about 100 1. a year, to be laid out in books, befides 20 1. a year for a librarian.

The free- fchool was founded in the year 15 195 by Dr. Oldham, bifliop of Exeter, whofe endow- ment, by the purchafe of an eflate of the lord de la War, was confiderably encreafed by Hugh Bex- wick and his filler, who having purchafed another eftate of the fame lord de la War, with the mills upon the river Irk, left them to the fame free- fchool for ever. Here are three mafters with li- beral falaries j and the boys on the foundation have certain exhibitions for their maintenance at the univerfity. Befides thefe public benefactions, here are three charity- fchool?, two of which are for forty boys each.

Among the other public buildings is a ftonc bridge over the river Irwell, which is built exceeding high, becaufe, the river flowing from the mountainous part of the country, fometimes rifes four or five yards in one night.

The inhabitants, including thofe of the fub- urbs, are faid to amount to 50,00c. This town is as remarkable for its manufadures as any in the kingdom, and thefe have been greatly im- proved of late years. Hence fome nianufa6lures are particularly called Manchefter goods, as fuf-

tians.

LANCASHIRE. 185

tians, ticking, tape, filleting, and cotton cloth, for which this town has been famous for more than a century and a half. Manchefter velvet is another important article, for which they have a prodigious demand. All the neighbouring vil- lages are employed in thefe manufa6tures5 and there are, for three miles above the town, no lefs than fixty mills upon this river : the weavers here have looms that work twenty-four laces at a time. 'I'his town gives the title of duke to the noble fa- mily of iViontagu ; but though it is in every re- fpeiil fo confiderable a place, it does not fend one member to parliament. It has three markets, which are kept on Tuefdavs, Thurfdays, and Sa- turdays j and three fairs, namely, on V/hitfon- Monday, h.eptember 21, and November 6, for horf.s, horned cattle, cloth and bedding.

iVJanchefter was an ancient Roman fortrefs, and feveral monuments of antiquity are ftill to be feen in and about the town. It is faid, in- deed, that the Roman ftation was about a quar- ter of a mile to the fouth-wefl:, and now goes by the name of the Giant's caftle, or Tarquin's caftle J and the field in which it fiands, is called Calile field. The ramparts are flill very confpi- cuous, and a river runs near it on the fouth-eaft fide. Mr. Camden faw a flone here with the fol-

lowinginfcription, 3 candidi fides xx. iiii.

A draught of another ftone was fent him thus in- fcribed,coHo.i. frisin. d masavonis p. — xxm. Thefe flones, he thinks, v/ere ere6ted to the me- mory of two centurions, who had given proofs of their fidelity. And in the year 161 2, a {lone v.'as dug up with this infcription, FOR^rvNAE conser-

VATRICI L. SENECIANIVS MARTIVS 3 LEG. VI.

VICT, which appears to have been an altar dedi- cated to Fortune by L. Senecianius Martius, the third governor or commander in the fixth legion,

which

i86 A Description of

which was ftatloned at York, when Severus was there.

This town had formerly the privilege of a fanc- tuary, which, by an aft of parliament in the reign of Henry the Eighth, was transferred to Chefter.

John Byrom, an ingenious poet, and an elegant writer, in the beginning of the eighteenth centu- ry, was defcended from a genteel family ; and was born in the year 1691, at Manchefler. He had his education at Merchant Taylor's fchool in London, and Trinity college in Cambridge, His genius for poetry began to difcover itfelf very ear- ly ; and when he had attained to the twenty-third year of his age, he compofed that beautiful paf- toral, beginning with. My Timey O ye Mufes^wai happily /pent, which was printed in the eighth vo- lume of the Spectator. He likewife wrote two humorous letters upon dreams, which were in- ferted in the fame volume. Being afpecled, it fs faid, with an hereditary diforder, he went ta Montpellier, for the recovery of his health ; and upon his return to England, fell deeply in love with his coufm, Mifs Elizabeth Byrom, whom he foon after married againft the confent of her parents ; who were fo enraged at the match, that they refufed to give their daughter the fortune they had intended her ; fo that do6tor Byrom (for fo he was now called) was obliged to fupport his family by teaching the art of writing fhort hand, in which he excelled. Upon the death, however, of his elder brother, Mr. Edward Byrom, he fuc- ceeded to the family eftate at Kerfal ; and fpent the remainder of his days in the full enjoyment of that conjugal felicity, for which he had a peculiar relifh. He died at Manchefter September the 26th, 1763, in the feventy-fecond year of his age. Befides the pieces already mentioned, he wrote an excellent poem upon Enthuftafm^ and another up-

^ pa

LANCASHIRE. 187

on the ImffiGrtality of the Soul, together with fome epigrams.

Salford is a town which feems joined to Man- chefter; they being only feparated by the river Irwell, but being united by a bridge, feem to form one town. Salford is, however, much worfe built, the houfes being old mean buildings. The church is a large Gothic ftructure, with a fquare tower, from the center of which rifes a very fnort fpire.

Ten miles to the north-weft of Manchefter is Bolton, which ftands in the road from VVigan to Leeds in Yorkfhire, eighteen miles north- north-eaft of Warrington, and two hundred north- north-weft of London. It is famous for its mine- ral fpring, and its being the ftaple of feveral forts of cotton cloths, efpecially the Milan and Augf- burg fullians, which are brought to its market and fairs from all parts of the country. Its mar- ket is held on Mondays, and its fairs, on July 19, and 06iober 2, both for the above articles, and for horfes, horned cattle and cheefe.

Tv/elve miles to the north of Manchcfler, and a hundred and ninety-eight north-north-weft of London, is Rochdale, which derived its name from its fituation in a valley, by a fmall river called the Roche, which falls into the Irwell. The valley, in which the town fiands, is at the bot- tom of a ridge of hills, called Black Stone Edge, which are fo high, that their tops are fometimes covered with fnow in the month of Auo-uft. The town is pretty large and populous, and is of late very much improved in its woollen manufadures. It has a market on Mondays, and three fairs, held on May 14, Whitfon-Tuefday, and November 7, for horned cattle, horfes, and woollen cloth.

About four miles to the fouth-eaft of Rochdale is Bury, a populous town, feated on the river Ir- well,

i88 A Description of

well, that has a confiderable trade in the fufliail manufa6lure, bays, and the coarfe goods called kerfies, and half thicks. It has a market on Thurfdays, and four fairs, which are held on the 5th of March, the 3d of May, the Thurfday but one after Whit-Sunday, and September 18, for horned cattle, horfes, and woollen cloth. Seve- ral Roman coins have been^dug up here.

From Bury the road leads northward to Ha- SLiNGTON, or Haslingden, which is featcd at the bottom of fome mountains eighteen miles north of Manchefter, about the fame diftance eaft of Prefton, and two hundredand fournorth-north- v;eil: of London. It has a market on Wednefdays, and three fairs, which are held on May 8, July I, and October 10, for horned cattle, horfes and flieep.

Eio^ht miles to the eaft of Plaflinp-den is Bl ack- BURN, or Blackbourn, which is fo called from a brook or rivulet of black water, which runs thro' it, and is feated near the river Dervven, at the didance of two hundred and twelve miles from London. It has a market on Mondays, and three fairs, held on May 21, for horfes, horned cattle and tovs ; on September 30, for toys and fmall wares; and on Odober 21, for horfes, horned cattle and toys.

On returning back to Haflingden, you proceed fixteen miles north to Clithero, which is fitua- ted on the river Ribble, not far from its fource, at the foot of Pendle-hill, which rifes to a great height, and at the diftance of two hundred and tv^'enty-fevcn miles from London. It is an ancient borough by prefcription, governed by two bailiffs, and fends two members to parliament. It had formerly a caftle feated at the bottom of Pendle- hill, built about the year T178, by Robert de Lacy, lord of the honour of Pontefra6t, and the

fourth

LANCASHIRE. 189

fourth defcendant from Ilbert, who came in with XVilliam the Conqueror. The body of this caf- tie is demoliflied, but there is ftill ftanding a great part of the fquare tower. The town has a mar- ket on Saturdays, and four fairs, whrch are held on the 21ft; of July, for horned cattle and wool- len cloth ; on March 24, the fourth Saturday af- ter September 29, and December 7, for horned cattle, woollen cloth and horfes.

Whaley, a village four miles fouth of Clithe- ro, is famous for an abbey of Ciftercian monks, founded by John Conftable of Chefter, firft at Stanlow in Chefhire : and by him endowed with divers lands and liberties in 1178; but was after- wards tranflated hither. The church of Wha- ley is faid to have been in being when Auguftine the monk came into England, in the reign of king Ethelbert, and was dedicated to all faints. The rc<5lors of this church were married men, to whom the lands v/ent by inheritance till the time of Wil- liam the Conq.ueror, and then it was otiierwife de- termined by the council of Lateran in the year 1 215. In the thirty-fourth of Edward the Third, Henry duke of Lancafter, 6:c. gave divers lands to the abbot and convent of Whaley, for maintaining a reclufe anchorite and his fucceffors. It had feveral other benefactors, and was valued at the dilTolution at5'5il. a year. There are magnificent ruins of this abbey yet to be feen of prodigious extent, though now, there are build- ings quite detached from each other, vvhofc walls feem to be pretty entire, and feveral of them have been turned into dwell ing-houfes, which belong to the family of the Curzons. For the conve- niency of travellers there is a bridge o\'er the ri\'er Calder, on the banks of which the abbey itanus.

CoLN is a market town, fituated near Fendle- hili, but on the oppofue fide to Clithtro, at the

diftance

IQO A Description of

diftance of about two hundred and twenty-five miles from London, it being feated on a fmall eminence near the eaftern confines of the county. This town is remarkable for its antiquities, feve- ral forts of Roman coins being found here, fome of which were of copper ; others were turned up by a plough, not many years fmce, thefe were of fil- ver, inclofed in a great filver cup ; and fome of them were of Gordianus. Hence feveral anti- quaries have concluded, that this town was a Ro- man ftation ; however, there are here no remains of fofles, or any other fortifications. Coin has a market on Wednefdays, and two fairs ; namely, on May 12, and October lO, for horned cattle, fhecp, and woollen cloth.

Burnley is a fmall town feated in a healthy air, about ten miles fouth-eaft of Coin, in the road to Leeds, twenty miles eaft of Prefton, and two hundred and ten north- north- weft of London ; it is fo called from Bourn, a river, and Lay, a field, it being a fmall town, in a very healthy air, feated on the Great Calder. Several confu- lar coins have been dug up here, fuppofed to have been ancient Roman Denarii, made before the time of the emperors. This town has five fairs, which are held on March 6, Eafter-Eve, May 13, July 10, and Oclober 11, for horfes, horned cattle and fiieep.

About eighteen miles north-weft of Clithero is Hornby, which is fituated on the river Lon, at the extremity of the county next to Weftmore- land, about eleven miles north-eaft of Lancafter, and two hundred and thirty north-north-weft of London. It has a market on Mondays, with a fair on July 30, for horned cattle and horfes, but is moft remarkable for its caftle, which is beautifully fituated on a hill, round the foot of which runs the river Wenning. It was founded

by

Vol.Vpaipi

LANCASHIRE. 191

^y Nicholas de Mont Begon, and afterwards be- longed to the noble families of the Harringtons and Stanleys, barons of Mont Eagle, defcended from Thomas Stanley, earl of Derby. Much of the antient caftle is in ruins, but part of it has been repaired and eredcd into a very handfome {Iruc- ture, which at a diftance makes a very fine ap- pearance, on account of its high fituation. Of this ftru6lure we have given a view. In this town was an hofpital, or cell, of a prior and three Premonftratenfian canons, belonging to the abbey of Croxton, on the borders of Leicefterfhire and Lincohifhire, founded by one of the anceilors of Sir Thomas Stanley, lord Mont Eagle, to whom this priory was granted by king Henry the Eighth. It was dedicated to St. Wilfrid, and endowed at the fuppreflion with lands to the value of 26 1. a year.

Befides the perfons already mentioned as born in this county, it has given birth to the following.

Barton Booth, one of the moft celebrated ac- tors that ever trod the Englifh ffage, was defcend- ed of a very ancient and honourable family in this county, where he v/as born in the year 1681. He had his education in Weflminfter fchool, un- der the famous do6lor Bufby, who having with his ufual fagacity difcovered the bentof Booth's genius, was fo far from repreffing, that he feemed rather to encourage it. He was originally intended for the church ; but his paffion for the ftage being too ftiong for the reftraints of parental authority, he eloped from fchool at the age of feventeen, went over to Ireland, and appeared on the theatre in that kingdom. Returning to his native country in i/or, he was recommended to Mr, Betterton, at that time manager of Drury-Lane play-houfe. That gjentleman readily took him into his compa-

«7.

t(^% A Description of

ny, and generoufly gave him all the affiftance in his power, towards the perfeding his theatrical talents. The firft part he performed was that of Maximus in the tragedy of Valentinian, when he was received with great applaufe ; and proceedino- gradually thro' feveral inferior characters, he rofe at length, in 1712, to the part of Cato, which, next to that of Othello, was always confidered as his mafter-piece. In 17 13, he was, by the inte- reft of lord Bolingbroke, admitted one of the ma- nagers of Drury-Lane theatre; and after having continued, for the fpace of twenty years, at the head of his profeffion, he died on the icth of May 1733, univerfally regretted.

L E I C E S-

1 193]

LEICESTERSHIRE.

I^^^~^\ HIS county, which was called by the ^ rp ^ SaxonsLedcefterfcyre, received its name ^ ^-^ from Leicefter, the county town. It is •^%1'M.J^ bounded on the north by Nottingham- fhire^and Derbyfhrre ; on the weft by a fmall part of Derbyfhire, StafFordihire and VVarwickfnire ; on the fouth by Northamptonfhire ; and on the call: by Rutlandfhire and Lincolnfhire. It ex- tends from eaft to wed about thirty miles ; from north to fouth about twenty-five j and is about a hundred miles in circumference.

It v/as anciently inhabited by the Coritani, who were likewife poflefled of Northamptonfhire and Rutlandfhire, and feparated from Warwickfliire by the old military way, called Watling-flreet. In the time of the Saxons, it formed a part of the kingdom of Mercia, but after the diffolution of the heptarchy, it became a county of itfelf.

The principal river is the Soar, or Soure, which rifes about the midway between Hinckley and Lutterworih j and pafTnig by Leicefter and Loughborough, falls into the Trent on the edge of Derbyfhire.

The Avon rifes in Northaraptcnfnire, and on- ly touches the fouth-weft edge of the county.

The Swift rifes in Leicefterfliire ; but pafKng by Lutterworth foon leaves it, and flows into Warwickihire.

The vV'elland rifmg near Harborough in this county, pafles by that town, and continuing its

Vol. V, I courfc

194 ^ Description of

courfe from weft to eaft, divides Leicefterfhlre from Northamptonftiire, enters Rutlandfhire, and flowing through that county, runs acrofs the fouth part of Lincolnfhire, into a bay of the Ger- man ocean called the Waih.

The Wreke rifes in the eaftern part of the county, and paffing by Melton Mowbray, falls in- to the Soure above Mountforrel.

Befides thefe, there are a number of fmall ri- vulets and brooks; but notwithftanding this coun- ty is fo well watered, it has neither bogs nor Hiarflies, which is of great advantage to the air ; and though it is at a confiderablediltance from the fea, falmon are frequently met with in the Soar, which come into that river from the Trent.

Leicefterfhire has one remarkable mineral fpring at Nevill Holt, a village to the fouth of Market Harborough: the water is exceeding fine and clear, and has a ftyptic, bitter, fweetifh and fub-acid tafte, leaving the mouth fomev^hat dry. It is comm-only brilk and fharp, when drank at the fpring head j and then alfo it palies quicker than elfe where ; it curdles with foap ; lets fall a grofs, white fediment with oil of tartar; but with the folution of alum and copperas it will con- tinue clear. Hence, and from other experiments, it appears to contain a calcarious nitre and allum, with a fat clay^ a latent fulphur, and fometimes a little oker. It will cure external frefh wounds, and all forts of ulcers, and is excellent for the eyes : ufed outwardly, and taken inwardly, it will Cure he6lick ulcers. When taken inwardly, as an alterative, an ounce or two may be taken five or fix times a day, or four ounces night and morn- ing ; but when defigned as a purge, it muft be taken from one pint to three. If the conftitution is cold and phlegmatic, it will be necefiary to add four fpoonfuls of brandy, and an ounce of fugar

to

LEICES TER.SKIRE. 195

(^each bottle of water. It is excellent in bloat- ed, dropfical conftitutions : it has no parallel in all forts of haemorrhages, as well as in all great and natural fecretions, of what kind fo ever. It alfo cures an inflammation of the lungs, attended with a cough and fpitting of blood. It is very fuc- cefsful in the king's evil, hidden cancers, as Vv'ell as fcrophulous inflammations of the eyes of many years iianding. It alfo cures all difeafes of the Jkin, and has had furprizing fuccefs againft rheu- matifms ; but it mufl not be drank in the increafe and height of any internal inflammation.

In the neighbourhood of Lutterworth is a pe- trifying fpring, the water of which is exceeding cold, and fo ftrongly impregnated with petrifying qualities, that, in a very little time, it is faid to convert wood and feveral other fubftances into ftone.

The foil of this county is, in general, very good, and yields plenty of grafs, corn, and par- ticularly beans, which are efteemed excellent. In- deed the north-eaft part, which borders upon Lincolnfhire, being more hilly and gravelly, is not remarkable for its fertility ; but the great quanti- ties of pit-coal in that part of the county, and the great number of cattle, particularly (beep, that feed upon the hills, who fe wool is much efteem- ed, make ; fufficient amends for other deficien- cies. On the other hand, the fouth-weit part, which borders on Warwickfhire, abounds with corn and pailure, yet is but indifferently provided with fuel. Leicelierfhire, in general, is well provided with corn, cattle, fowl and li(h, parti- cularly with horfes for the collar. The piir.apal bufinefs of the county confifis in agriculture j for it has no manufactory beiides that of weaving ijvckings ) and that is very confiderable.

I 2 Leicef-

196 A Description of

Leicefterfhire lies in the province of Canter- bury and the diocefe of Lincoln, and has a hun- dred and ninety-two parifhes. It is divided into fix hundreds, in which are eleven market towns ; and fends four members to parliament, two for Leicefter, and two for the county.

We {hall enter this county by the road which leads from London to Leicefter, and fhall begin with Market Harborough, formerly called Haverburg, feated on the edge of the county on the north fide of the Welland, which, as we have already obferved, feparates this county from Northamptonfliire, This is a fm all market town, pleafantly fituated in a fine open country, eighty-four miles weft by north of London, eigh- teen north of Northampton, and fixteen fouth of Leicefter ; and is a great thoroughfare in the road to Nottingham and Derby. It is remarkable, that this town has neither field nor meadow lands belonging to it, which gave rife to a proverb among the inhabitants, that a goofe will eat up all the grafs in Harborough, and children are threat^ ened with being thrown into Harborough Field. It has a large church, which is an old but elegant ftrudure, an old market-houfe and town-hall, and new fliambles. The market, which is on Tuefday, is a very good one, and it has two fairs, viz. on the 29th of April, for horfes, cows, fheep and hogs ; and on the 19th of Odober, which lafts ten days, for horfes, cows, (beep, hogs, pewter, brafs, hats and cloaths ; leather is fold the laft day, and eheefe is, a capital article all the ten days. ' This fair was famous in the time of Camden for the fine horfes and colts fold at it. This town gives the title of earl to the noble fa- mily of Sherrard.

Proceeding fixteen miles to the north-north- wcft, you come to Leicester, which received

its

VolVpgjp

LEICESTERSHIRE. 197

its name from its being feated upon the Leir, the ancient name of the river, now called Soar, the word Cefter fignifying a town or caftle. It is waflied on the weft and north fides by that river, and is ftill the largell, beft built, and moil: popu- lous town in the county. It is fituated at the dif- tance of a hundred miles from i.ond-ui, tvv'cnty- five from Notting.':iam, and ibout the fame dif- tance from x^erby. This town is gen-^^'-ally aU loweJ to have beea the Racae of Antoninus, and the Ragae o Ptolemy. It flands upon a branch of Watling-ftreet, called the Fofs W^y, and the traces of a F oman wall quite round, may in Come places be ftiil difcovered, efpecially ia the gardens about Senvigate, and on the outfide of it was a ditch. The Roman town was two thoufand five hundred feet in length, and two thoufand feet in breadth. It appears, that in the time of the Ro- mans, it was a place of confiderable note, from the multitude of bones of various beads, which are fuppofed to have been offered in facrifice, and dug up in a part of the town ftill called Holy- Bones, where there are fome ruins of a Roman building, commonly called the Temple of Jan-us; of thefe ruins we have given a view, for the fatis- faction of the curious reader. • Near All Saints church in this town was difcovered, about hair a century ago, a piece of Roman antiquity, fuppo- fed to be the fable of Diana and Aclaeon, as re- lated by Ovid, formed with little ftones, (omQ white, and others of a chefnut colour. Medals and coins both of filver and copper have been found in the town in great abundance, particularly of the emperors Vefpafian, Domitian, Trajan, and An- toninus. Near St. Nicholas's church is an old wall, named the Old Jewry wall, which is com- pofed of Roman bricks and rag-ftones, and has feveral niches of an oval figure, in which urns I 3 were

-198 ^ Description of

were probably placed, though the inhabitants have the ridiculous notion, that in thofe niches the an- cient Britons offered up their children to idols. AHo at a fmall diftance were difcovered the re- mains of what is fuppofed to have been a Roman hot bath. It is conftru£^ed of fmall ftones about an inch in length, half an inch broad, and the fame in thickiiefs : the roof is arched, and the whole perforated by feveral fmall earthen pipes, through which the water is fuppofed to have been conveyed. The ftones are finely cemented with thin mortar, and the whole work, which was confiderably be- low the prefent furface of the ground, is faid to have been about eighteen feet long and twelve broad.

Under the Saxon heptarchy, Leicefter was the chief city of the kingdom of Mercia, and was then the fee of a bifhop ; but the fee being removed af- ther the fucceflion of eight prelates, it fell to de- cay ; however, in the year 9 14, it was repaired and fortified with new v/alls, after which it became a populous and wealthy town, and had thirty-two parilh churches ; but rebelling againft king Henry the Second, it was befieged and taken, when the caftle was difmantled and the walls thrown down. At prefent it has fix parifhes, though but five, churches ; one of them is dedicated to St, Mar- garet, and is a noble ftruvSlure, with a ring of fi/< mufical bells. It is faid that king Richard the Third, who was llain in the battle of Bofworth in this county, was interred in it, and that his ftone coffin was afterwards converted into a horfe trough belonging to the White Horfe inn in this town, where it remained till a few years ago, but is now deftroyed by time. It is remarkable, that in the church of St. Martin in this town, is an epitaph on a tomb ftone, which aflerts, that Mr. John Heyrick, who died on the 2d of April, 1589, in

LEICESTERSHIRE. 199

ihe feventy-fixth year of his age, lived In one houfe with his wife full fifty-two years', and In all that time buried neither man, woman, nor child, though they were fometimes twenty in family, and that his widow, who died in 161 1, aged 97, faw before her death a hundred and forty-three of her own ilTue, including the third generation. lu the High-ftreet is a crofs in the form of that on which Our Saviour fufTered, and efteemed an ex- cellent piece of workmanfhip. This town, be- fides its fine churches, has feveralmeeting-houfesof diflenters, and is governed by a mayor, a recorder, a fteward, a bailiff, twenty-four aldermen, forty- eight common council-men, a town-clerk, and other officers : it had its charter from king John, and its freemen are toll-free at all the fairs and markets in England. Leicefler has been lately much improved in its buildings, and has a new town -hall in the market-place, a new aiTembly- room, and many new and elegant houfes. Aa hofpital built in the town for a hundred poor fick men and women by Henry the Firi^, duke of Lan- cafter, who was interred in it, is ftill in a tolera- ble condition, it being fupported by fome revenues of the dutchy of Lancafter, and contains a great number of old people of both fexes. It is a long low ftruclure covered with lead ; and at feme dif- tance from the door is a kind of altar, where prayers are read every day by fome of the old men; and from thence you have a view of thg whole length ; but the infide has a moft gloomy and melancholy appearance. The moft ftately edifice of this kind is an hofpital, erected and en- dowed in the reign oi king Hjnry the tighrh, by Sir William Wigifton, a merchant of tiie ftapie here, for twelve men and as many women. la this hofpital is a chapel, and I'brary for the m ni- fl^rs and fcholars of the tov/n. Here is likewife J 4 aa

200 I^Descriptionc/"

an hofpltal for fix widows, and a charity-fchool, and in an adjacent meadow-is a courfe for annual horfe races.

This town has a large manufa£^ory of {lock- ings, of which they weave fuch vaft quantities, that in fome years Leicefter has returned 60,000 1. in that article. It has a market on Wednefdays and Saturdays, and the latter is one of the great- eft in England for provifions. It has likewife four fairs, which are held on the 12th of May, snd the 5th of July, for horfes, cows and fheep j on the loth of Odober for horfes, cows, fheep, iind a large quantity of cheefe, and on the 8th of December, which is inconfiderable, for a great number of horfes and cows. . At a fmall diftance from the town are the re- mains of a caftle, which, though now difmantled, was of great antiquity and extent. It was built before the reign of William the Conqueror, and John, duke of Lancafter, who held his court here, enlarged it with twenty-fix acres of ground, inclofed it with a wall, and named it Novum O- pus, whence it is ftill called Newark, a corrup- tion of New Work, and has on a part of the ground where it flood fome of the befl houfes in or near Leicefter ; thefe houfes are extraparochial, as be- ing, by an old grant from the crown, under caf- tle guard. The hall and kitchen of the caftle are ftill entire, and in the former, the town and coun- ty-courts are held ; for the hall is fo fpacious and lofty, that at the aifizes, the courts are fo far diftant, as not to difturb each other. One of the gateways of this caftle has a fine arch, and the tower over it is converted into a magazine for the county militia.

Before the conqueft there was a collegiate church within the caftle ; but during the wars of William the Firft it was demoliflied, together

with

/;/./.>/

LEICESTERSHIRE. 201

with the city and caftle ; but rebuilt in the year lio;, by Robert, earl of Mel lent and Leicefter, for a dean and twelve prebendaries, and dedicat- ed, as the old church was, to St. Mary. Mod of the lands and tithes of this church were alie- nated by Robert Boflu, earl of Leicefter, and an- nexed to his new abbey in a meadow at the other end. of the town, aad called St. Mary de Pratis, or Prez, i. e. St. Mary of the Meadow. How- ever, here <:ontinued a dean and feven prebenda- ries, whofe houfe v^^as called the College of St* Mary the Lefs, but their revenues at the general diflblution were only valued at 24 1. 13s. 11 d. a year.

The above abbey, named St. Mary de Prez, and flill called Leicefter abbey, was founded in ii43»^ for black canons, in honour of the aftumption ot the Virgin Mary; and at the fuppreftion of reli- gious houfes was endowed, according to Dugdale, with 951 1. 14s. 5 d. a year; and, according to Speed, with 1062]. It is fince turned into a dwelling-houfe and garden, where clofe to the river is a pleaiant terrace fupported by an embat- tled wall, with lunettes, and lliaded with trees. We have given a viev/ of this ftructure, which belon2;s to the duke of Devonfhire.

Bclides thefe religious houfes, Henry, earl of Leicefter and Lancafter, erected near the caftle, in the year 1330, the above hofpital, dedicated to liie annunciation of the Virgin Marv, for a mafter and feveral chaplains, and poor perfons ; but about twenty-five years after, it was converted in;o a noble college, called Collegium Novi Operis, and St. iVlary the Greater. It confifted of a dean, twelve fecular canons and prebendaries, twelve vicars, three clerks, fix chorift-Ts, fifty poor men, as many poor women, tea nurfes, with proper of- I 5 iicers

202 A Description of

iicers and attendants. The revenues of this col- lege were valued at thediiTolution at 800 1. a year. On the north part of the town was an hofpital for lepers dedicated to St. Leonard, founded in the reign of king Richard the Firft, by William, the youngeft fon of Robert Blanchmains, earl of Leicefter, who was himfelf a leper : but William, lord Haftings, begged this hofpital of king Ed- ward the Fourth, and gave it to the dean and chapter of our Lady's college in this town. Here iikewife was an hofpital before the year 123^5 for a mailer, brethren and fitters, dedicated to St. John the Baptift, and St. John the Evangel ift.

A houfe of Francifcan grey friars is faid to- have been founded in the north-w^eft part of the town, by Simon de Montfort, earl of Leicefter^ who died in the year 1264. Here was alfo a houfe of black friars in an ifland near the bridge, found- ed by the earl of Leicefter, in the reign of king Henry the Third, and dedicated to St. Clements The friars of the order of St. Auguftine, had a priory here called St. Catharine's. And the friars of a Mendicant order, called De paenetentia Jefu Chritti, had a houfe in the fuburbs of the town.

With refpedl to the civil hiftory of this town, it will be fufHcient to add, that a parliament was held there in the reign of king Henry the Fifths In the civil war the army of king Charles the Firft: took it by ftorm, and it was foon after retaken by Sir Thomas Fairfax.

M0UNTSORREL5 more properly Mount Soar- Hill, received its name from the river Soar, which runs on the eaft fide of it, and a hill in the middle of the town, and is fituated feven miles to the northward of Leicefter, and a hun- dred and feven north-weft of London. It was for- merly famous for its caftle, which was feated on a fteep and craggy hill that hangs over the river,

And

LEICESTERSHIRE. 203

and firft belonged to the earls of Leicefter ; but has been long demoliflied. It is partly in the pa- rifhes of Burrow and Rodeley, and had ancient- ly two chapels, though it has nov/ but one, and a meeting-houfe. It has a bridge over the Soar ; but is very indifferently built, the houfes being generally low mean ftru£tures, formed of a red- difli kind of ftone. It has however a market on Mondays, and a fair on the loth of July, for toys. The manor and church of Rodeley above-men- tioned, were given by king Henry the Third to the Knights Templars, who fettled there a com- mandery of their order, which, with their other lands, came afterwards to the Knights Hofpital- lers, who enjoyed them till the general difTolu- tion, about which time they were valued at 87 1. 13 s. 4d. a year.

At CossiNGTON, which is feated at the con- fluence of the rivers Wreke and Soar, about three miles to the fouth-eaft of Mount Sorrel, there is a vaft barrow, three hundred and fifty feet long, a hundred and twenty broad, and forty high. It flands exaitly north and fouth, and in rainy fea- fons is almoft encompaffed with water. 7 he coun- try people call it Shipley hill, and fay a great captain, called Shipley, was buried there j but be that as it will, it is certainly of great antiquity.

Loughborough is pleafantly feated among fertile meadows, near the foreft of Charwood, on the banks of the river Soar, over which it has a bridge, and at the diftance of four miles from Mount Sorrel. In the time of the Saxons it was a royal village, and is at prefent pretty well built, though it has fuffered greatly by fires. It has a fpacious church, and a iree-rchool, a charity- fchool for eighty boys, and another f6r twenty girls. It has a good market on Thurfdays, with live fairs, which are held on March 28, for horfes

and

204- ^ Description of

and cows ; on April 25, for horfes and fheep ; on Holy-Thurfday, and the 12th of Auguft, for horfes and cows, and on November 13, for horfes, cows and foals.

At a village near Loughborough, Robert BofTu, earl of Leicefter, in the year 1133, built an abbey for Ciftercian monks, dedicated to the Virgin Ma- ry, in which, at the fuppreflion of religious houfes, were fourteen monks, who enjoyed a revenue of 186 1. 15 s. 2d. a year.

Seven miles weft by north of Loughborough is Belton, which has a fair on Monday after Tri- riity-week, for horfes, cows and fheep ; confidera- ble for horfes.

Loughborough being near the borders of Not- tlnghamfhire, one road leads from thence to Not- tingham, and another to Derby.

About half way between Loughborough and Afnby de la Zouch, was the nunnery of Grace- Dieu, which was founded by Roefia, the wife of Bertram de Verdun, about the twenty-fourth of Henry the Third, for Ciftercian nuns, and dedi-* cated to the honour of God, the Holy Trinity, and St. Mary. Sir William Waftnefs was after- wards a benefadtor to this houfe, which, at the time of the diflblution, had fifteen nuns, with a yearly revenue, according to Speed, of 101 1. 8 s. 2d. ifeing Henry the Eighth granted it to Sir Hugh Fofter, by whom it was alienated to John Beau- mont, Efq; but the prefent owner is Ambrofe Philips, Efq; a confiderable part of the walls are ftill ftanding, and fhew, that it was formerly a very handfome ftrucSlure.

Sir John Beaumont, brother of the famous dramatic poet, Mr. Francis Beaumont, and him- felf no unfavoured fon of the Mufes, was born at Grace-Dicu, in the year 1582. After ftudying about three years in Broadgate's hall ia Oxford,

he

VcLl'.pu.io^

LEICESTERSHIRE. 205

he removed to one of the inns of court; but fooii quitted that fituation, and retired to the place of his nativity, where he feems to have relided till the time of his death, which happened in the winter of 1628. He wrote a poem, called Bof- worth Field ; befides fever al other original pieces and tranflations from the claflics.

AsHBY DE LA ZoucH was fo called from the Zouches, its ancient lords, to diftinguifh it from another Afhby, in this county named Aftiby Fol- vile. It is pleafantly fituated on the borders of Derbyfnire, about thirteen miles to the weft of Loughborough, and has a handlbme large church, and a meeting-houfe. It chiefly conhfts of one good ftreet, in which there is a neat ftone crofs, and has a free-fchool, the matter of which has a handfome falary. Here are alfo the ruins of a caftle, which formerly belonged to Alan de la 2^ouch ; from whom it came to the lord Haftings, who was beheaded by king Richard the Third ; and from the Haftings lineally defcended to the carls of Huntingdon, in which noble family it now remains. Here king James the Firft, with his whole court, fpent feveral days, during which dinner was ferved up by thirty poor knights, who wore gold chains and velvet gowns. But this place being a garrifon for king Charles the Firft, it was demolifhed in 164S by the parliament forces,. Its ruins, of which we have given a viev/, fhew that it was a fine Gothic ftruclure. This town has a plentiful market on Saturdays, and four fairs, v/hich are held on Eafter-Tuefday, and Whitfun-Tuefday, for horfes, cows, and fheep ; and on Auguft 24, and October 28, for horfes and cows.

John Bainbridge, an eminent phyftcian and aftronomer of the feventeenth century, was born in this town in the year 1582. He received his

education

2o'6 A Description of

education in the grammar-fchool of this plai^e^ and in Emanuel college in Cambridge, where he took the degrees in arts, and applied himfelf ta the ftudy of phyfic, and of mathematics. He pra£lifed phyfic for fome time in his native coun- try ; and removing afterwards to London, was chofen a fellow of the college of phyficians. In 1619 he was appointed Savilian profeffor of aftro- nomy at Oxford, and in 1635 fuperior reader of Linacre's lecture. He died on the 3d of Novem- ber, 1643, and was interred in the church of Merton college. He publifhed, among other things, A Dcfcription of the Comet in 1618, and A Treat if e concerning the Dog -Star,

At Breedon on the Hill, a village five miles north-eaft by north of Afhby de la Zouch, on the borders of Derbyfhire, is a church, dedi- cated to St. Mary and St. Hardulf, which, about the year 1114, was given by Robert Ferrers, earl of Nottingham, to the monaftery of St. Ofwald, at Noftol hall near Wakefield in Yorkfhire ; upon which there was here a cell of black canons fu- bordinate to that monaftery, confifting of a prior, and five religious, whofe revenues at the diflblu- tion were valued at 24 I. 10 s. 4 d. a year.

At Langley, a village five miles north-eaft of Afhby de la Zouch, was formerly a priory for Benedictine nuns, built by V/illiam Pantulf, and Burgia his v/ife, about the beginning of the reigu ©f king Henry the Second, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; the annual revenues of which were valued, by Dugdale, at the fupprelHon at 29 1. 7 s. 4d.

At Heather, a village feated to the fouth-eaft of Afnby de la Zouch, was a houfe with lands belonging to the Knights Horpitallers, given by Ralph de G rifely, before the firft year of i<.ing John : for fome time it hiid a diftinct preceptor,

and

LEICESTERSHIRE. 207

and at another time was accounted part of the preceptory of Dalby. At its diflblution it was valued at 39 1. is. 5 d. a year.

At Charley and Ulvescross, two folitary places in Charnwood foreft, which lies to the fouth-eaft of Afhby de la Zouch, were fettled by Robert Blanchmaines, earl of Leicefter, three friars hermits in each, in the reign of king Henry the Second, but by the confent of the earl of Winchefter, patron of both houfes, in the reign of Edward the Second, they were united at Ul- vefcrofs, where a priory of regular canons of the order of St. Auftin, dedicated to the Virgin Ma- ry, continued till the difTolution, when it con- tained eight religious, whofe revenues, according to Dugdale, amounted to 83 1. 10 s. 6 d. a year ; and according to Speed, to loi L Part of the walls are ftill {landing ; and there are fculptures on thofe of the fecond flory reprefenting cherubims. At one end there is a tower, which feems to be pretty entire, except at the top, and probably be- longed to the church of the priory.

Eight miles to the fouth of Afhby de la Zouch, jind nine to the weftward of Leicefter, is Bos- worth, or Market Bosworth, which 13 pleafantly fituated in a wholefome air, and fruit- ful foil, both for corn and grafs, and has a free- fchool founded by Sir Wolftan Dixey. It has a market on Wednefdays, and two fairs, held on the 8th of May, for horfes, cows and fheep j and on the loth of July, for horfes and cows. At the diftance of three miles from this town is a plain, anciently called Redmore, but now Bof- worth field j for here was fought the famous bat- tle between Richard the Third, and Henry, earl of Richmond, in which the former was vanquifti- cd. In the moor, where the battle was fought, there are fre(^uently found, by digging and plow- ing,

2o8 A Description of

ing, pieces of armour, and other warlike acoutre*' merits, and particularly arrow heads of an extra- ordinary fizc. Here is alfo a fmall mounty from which the earl of Richmond is faid to have made a fpeech to his army before the engagement.

Hinckley is a (mail town feated near the Ro- man road, called Watling-ftreet, on the borders of the county towards Warwickfhire, five miles fouth of Bofworth, and nine weft fouth weft of Lei- cefter. It has a lar2;e handfome church, with a lofty fpire fteeple, and the affizes were formerly held here. At the eaft end of this church are trenches, and very high ramparts, which the in- habitants call Hugh's caftle, fuppofing them to be veftiges of a caftle, built here by Hugh Bigot, the firft earl of Norfolk. The market is on Mon- days, and it has a fair on the 26th of Auguft, for horfes, cows, fhcep and cheefe. At this town was formerly an alien priory of two BenedicSline monks, belonging to Lyra in Normandy, to which it was given by Robert Blanchmaiiies, earl of Leicefter, before the year 1 1 73.

HiGHAM, a village three miles north-weft of Hinckley, is remarkable for the antiquities dif- covered there in 1607. An inhabitant taking up ia great fquare ftone, which lay in Wailing i^reet road, upon the croiling of another road that leads to Coventry, met with tv^o hundred and fifty pieces of filver of the coin of Henry the Third, each of which weighed about three pence,' There was alfo a gold ring vv^ith a ruby, another with an agate, and a third of filver, in which was a flat ruddy ftone, engraved Vv'ith Arabic charadies ; which have been thus trandated, *' By JMah< met " magnify him ; turn from him each hand that *' may hurt him '* Among this treafure were alfo found feveral filver hooks, with links of a large gold chain. Thefe were found by the fide of the

ftoncj

LEICESTERSHIRE. 20^

-ftone, and underneath It, two or three pieces of filver coin of the emperor Trajan. The ftone it- felf is thought to have been the bafis of an altar, dedicated to Trajan, it being cuftomary among the Romans to place, under the foundation of the monuments, and other buildings, fome of the coins of the reigning emperor. The Englifh mo- ney, rings and other things, depofited by the fide of the flone, are thought to have been the treaCure of fome Jew.

Benonis, near High Crofs, ftands in the inter- fedlion of the tvv'o great Roman roads, that tra- verfe the kingdom obliquely, and Dr. Stukeley thinks it is in the very centre of England, be- caufe there are rivers that run from thence every way. The fite of the ancient city is very rich ; and many antiquities, as Roman (tones and bricks, have been found here, befides Roman coins. There is a crofs here, that is well defigned, but it is conRruded with mouldring ftone. In the garden before the inn there was a barrow, lately taken away, and under it was the body of a man upon a plain furface.

LuTTERv/ORTH is feated in a good foil on the river Swift, which foon after runs into the Avon, at the diftance of nine miles to the fouth-eaft of Hinckley, and tv/elve fouth-v.'efl of Leicefler, and near it to the v/eftwavd runs the ancient Ro- man way, called Watling-ftreet. It is a pretty good country town, and has a large handfome church with a lofty fpire fteeple. In this church is ilill to be feen the pulpit of the famous reformer John WickliiF, who was redtor of the parifli. 'J'his town has a market on 7 hurfdays, and two fairs, held on April 2, for horfes, cows and fheep; and on September 16, for horfes, cows, fheep and cheefe. Here Rofc de Verdon, and her fon Nicho- las, in the reign of king John, built and endow- ed

210 A Description of .

ed an hofpital for a prior, or mafter and brethrerfj dedicated to St. John the Baptift, which was va- lued at the diffolution at 26 1. 9 s. 5d. a year.

At SwiNSFORD, which lies to the fouth-eaftof Lutterv/orth, is a church which was given to the hofpitallers by Robert Rivell, before the reign of king John, and here was fettled a fmall precepto- xy of that order.

On entering this county by the road from Rut- landiliire, you pafs byHALLATON, which lies a- bout two miles to the v/eft of the road, and eight miles north-weft of Harborough. It has a chari- ty-fchool, and a market on Mondays, and three fairs, held on Holy-Thurfday, May 23, and June 13, for horfes, horned cattle, pewter, brafs and deaths.

At Bradley to the fouth-eaft of Hallerton, Robert Bundy, or Burneby, founded a fmall priory of the order of St. Auftin, in the reign of king John ; but at the diffolution it had only two ca- nons, with lands of the annual value of 20 1. 15 s. 7d.

In the chapel of the manor houfe at Noseley^ a village to the north-weft of Hallaton, Sir Anke- tine de Martival founded, in the fecond year of Ed- ward the Firft, a college or chantry, which was farther endowed by his fon Roger de Martival, archdeacon of Leicefter, and afterwards bilhop of Salift>ury, about thirty-two years after. It was dedicated to the Afcenfion of our Lord, and the AlTumption of the Virgin Mary, and, according to Mr. Burton, confifted of a warden and certain brethren ; or, according to others, of three priefts, who had diftind prebends, three clerks, and four chorifters.

BiLLESDON is a town about fix miles north- weft of Hallerton, and eight to the eaftward or Leicefter. It ha§ a market on Fridays, and two

fairs I

LEICESTERSHIRE. 211

fairs ; namely, on April 23, and July 25, for pewter, brafs and toys ; but contains nothing re- markable. Not far from hence, are two places called Burrow-hill, and Ardborough, where Mr. Camden fuppofes the ancient Vernometum flood ; but Horfley places it at Willoughby. However, the ground is a fteep hill on all fides, except the fouth-eaft ; and on the top, is the appearance of a demolifiied town, a double trench, and a tract where the walls went, which enclofes about eigh- teen acres of land. Mr. Camden alfo thinks, fome great Heathen temple formerly flood in this place ; and this the annotator takes to be the whole of the affair, there being here more marks of a temple, than of a town.

To the eaft of Billefden, and on the borders of "Rutlandfhire, is Loddington, where was a pri- ory of canons regular, of the order of St. Au- gufline, dedicated to St. John Baptid, founded by Richard BaiTct of Weldon, and Matilda Ri- dell his wife, in the latter part of the reign of king Henry the Firft. The revenue of this priory, according to Dugdale, amounted to 399I. a year 5 but, according to Speed, to 511 1.

About fix miles north-eaft of Billefdon, and the fame diftance fouth of Melton Mowbray, is the village of Olveston or Osulveston, where v/as a priory of canons regular, of the order of St. Augufline, founded by Robert Grimbold, in the reign of king Henry the Second, and dedicated to the honour of St. Mary, St. Andrew, and All Saints : to which canons he gave the church and town, &c. Robert, bifhop of Lincoln, confirmed thefe donations ; and farther added a charter to them, of being for ever free from the payment of fynodals, and all other epifcopal cuflom.s, Peter- pence excepted. It had alfo feveral other bene- faclors, and at the fuppreiTion was valued by

Dugdale,

212 A Description of

Dugdale, at i6i 1. a year; but by Speed at 174!.' The whole building was a few years ago, if it is not ftiil, entire. It is leaded at the top, and makes a very beautiful appearance. Indeed it is a very agreeable feat, and lately belonged to Jeffery Johnfon, Efq;

At the diftance of ten miles north-eaft of Bil- lefden is Melton Mowbray, fo called from the ancient family of the Mowbrays, its ancient lords. It (lands in a fertile foil, on the banks of the river Eye, which almoil furrounds it, eigh- teen miles fouth-eaft of Nottingham. It has two handfome ftone bridges over the river, and is a large well built town, wich a fpacious handfome church, and a frec-fchpol. Here are frequent horfe races, and the market, which is on Tuef- days, is the moft confiderable for cattle of any in this part of England. It has alfo three fairs, which are held on the fiift Tuefday after January 17, for horfes and horned cattle ; on the Monday a flievv of horfes'; on Whitfun-Tuefday for horfes, horned cattle and flieep; and on Auguft 21, for horfes, horned cattle, fheep and hogs.

At Dalby, near Melton Movv'bray, was a preceptory of the knights hofpitallers, faid to have been founded by Robert BofTu, earl of Leicefter, in the beginning of the reign ot Henry the Se- cond, and valued at the diliblution at 91 1. 2s. 8 d. a year.

In BuR-TON Lazars, fouth of Melton Mow- bray, Roger de Mowbray, in the reign of king Stephen, gave two carucates of land, a houfeand a mill here to the lepers of St. Lazarus, Vv^ithout the walls of Jerufalem, and thus laid the founda- tion of a well-endowed hofpital in this place, con- fifting of a mafter and feveral brethren. This was the chief of all the fpittals or lazar-houfes ia England 3 but v/as dependent on the great houfe

LEICESTERSHIRE. 213

at Jerufalem. It was dedicated to the Virgin Ma- ry and St. Lazarus ; and at the fuppreflion, its pofTefiions were valued at 265 1. los. 2d. a year.

Roger Beller, in the reign of Edward the Se- cond, founded a fmall chantry in St. Peter's cha- pel, near his manor-houfe at Kirkby Bellars, on the north fide of Melton Mowbray, which a few years after he converted into a kind of col- lege, for a warden and twelve feculars priefts. It was afterwards made conventual for a prior and regular canons of the order of St. Auguftine, and thus continued till the difTolution, when it con- tained ten religious, and had a revenue of 142 L 10 s. 3 d. a year.

Waltham on the Would is feated five miles north-eaft of Melton Mowbray, in a whole- fome air ; but is a poor town, with a charity- Ichool 3 a fmall market on Thurfdays, and a fair on the 19th of September, for horfes, horned cattle, hogs, and goods of all forts.

At Croxton-Kyriel, to the north-eaft of Waltham in the V/ould, William Porcarius dc Linus built an abbey of Premonftrat^nfian ca- nons, in 1162, and dedicated it to St. John the Evangelift. It continued till the dlflbluLlon, when its revenue amounted to 3S5 1. a year.

Belvoir Caftle, commmonlycalled Bever Caf- tle, is feated on the edge of the county, next Lincolnfhire, ten miles north-eaft of Melton Mowbray, and is the feat of the duke of Rut- land. The hill on which it ftands is fuppofed to be artificial, or at leaft a great part of it. Some take it to have been a Roman ftation, named Ma- rigdunum; but this is a mifta:ce, for that is atEaft Bridgeford ; however, many Roman coins have been found about it. The old caftle was built foon after the conqueft by Robert de Tendeneio, a Normaa nobleman, to bridle the Saxons, and

he

«^T4 . A Description of he made It the feat of his barony. It paflTed thro* feveral hands, and at laft came to the family of the Manners, the prefent proprietor. Near it is Wolftrop church, now in ruins, though great part of the fteeple is ftill {landing. The caftle fufFe- red much in the reign of Henry the Sixth, it be- ing almoft deftroyed by William lord Haftings ; and lay jTome years in a ruinous condition, till ThomasJ-earl of Rutland, rebuilt it. In the ci- vil wars, it was made a garrifon for king Charles the Firft, and defended for fome time by Mr. Tho* mas Maifon, rector of Afliwcll, in Rutlandfhire, "who commanded a company here ; but was after- wards befieged, and much defaced by the enemies cannon ; it has fmce been rebuilt and beautified, as alfo the hill on which it ftands; for it has been turned into fine gardens, adorned with walks, plantations, and llatues. Of this ftru(Sture we have given the reader an engraved view. It has the name of Belvoir, from the very extenfive prbfpeft it affords j for from hence you may fee Nottingham caftle, Lincoln minfter, and many towns and lordfhips belonging to the noble pro- prietor. In a fine gallery are many ancient and modern family pidlures ; and among the reft, an original of Charles the Firft, as he fat at his trial. Upon the edge of the county, near Nottingham- fliire, is Willoughby-Brook, near which is a tumulus, or barrow, on an eminence, called Crop- hill ; and upon the brow of the hill, overlooking Willoughby brook, appears to have been a Ro- man town, and the inhabitants are perfuaded that here was a city, called Long Billington. How- ever, in common difcourfe, it is generally called Black-Field, the foil being perfedtly black, though the adjacent land is red. Many brafs and filver coins have been found here, and a few that were gold. The people are however, it is faid, de- terred

/I'/, r.pa . -1/4 .

if r^^^

LEICESTERSHIRE. 215

terred from digging by the ridiculous fear of fpi- rits, which they imagine haunt the place. Many Mofaic pavements have been dug up, as well as pot-hooks, fire-fliovels, and the like ; alfo broad flones and foundations are frequently found on the fide of the Fofs-way.

Beiides the perfons already mentioned, this county has produced, the Lady Jane Grey, the eldeft daughter of Henry Grey, marquis of Dor- fet, and of the lady Frances Brandon, eldeft daughter of Charles Brandon, duke of Suffolk, by Mary, queen dowager of France, youngell daughter of king Henry the Seventh, and fifter to king Henry the Eighth. She was born in 1537, at Broadgate in this county, and educated in her fa- ther's houfe, under the doctors Aylmer and Hard- ing, two of the mofl: learned men of the* age. Under the care of thefe able inftrudlors, fhc made fo rapid a progrefs in her ftudies, that before fhe had arrived at the years of maturity, ilie had ac- quired a thorough knowledge of the French, Ita- lian, Latin, and Greek, and was tolerably verfed in the Hebrew, Chaldee, and Arabic ; without, hov/ever, negle(Sting thofe accompliftiments which are more peculiar to her fex. Her near relation to the blood royal infpired Dudley, Duke of Nor- thumberland (to whofe fourth fon, the lord Guilford Dudley, {he was married) with the am- bitious thou:^hts of raifmo- her to the throne : a fcheme which proved the ruin of her, and of all who were concerned m it. In order toaccompliih his daring profpect, Northumberland prevailed upon king Edward the Sixth, whofe health was now in a very declining ftate, to appoint the lady Jane his heirefs and fuccefTor ; and accordingly up- on the death of that prince, which happened on the 6th of July, 1553, ^^^ ^^'^Y J^"^ ^^^ P^^" claimed, though much againft her own inclinati- on»

ai6 -^Description of

on, queen of England, France and Ireland, witH the ufual folemnity. Her reign, however, was of fhort continuance ; for the princefs Mary, eldeft daughter to king Henry the Eighth, having raifed an army in fupport of her own title, and that of her fitter Elizabeth, obtained the crown, on which Northumberland was feized, and commit- ted to the Tower ; and was foon after tried, and brought to the fcafFold. Sentence of death was, at the fame time pafTed, as well upon queen Jane, as upon her hufband and father, the lad of whom had lately been created duke of Suftblk. The duke, hov/ever, was pardoned and fet at liberty ; and the execution of the fentence againft the queen and her hufband was, for the prefent, fuf- pended,and might perhaps, at laft, have been entirely remitted, had it not been for the imprudence of her father, v/ho unwarily engaged in Wiat's in- furredion. For this frefh crime he was again feized and tried ; and being found guilty, was immediately beheaded, and his daughter and fon- in-law fhared the fame fate. Queen Jane fuffered, February the 12th, 1554, on a fcaffold within the Tower j the court being afraid, that a public ex- ecution might too much excite the compaflion of the fpedators. She met her fate with great cou- rage and compofurej and, as flie was a lady of the moft amiable accomplifhments, both of body and mind, her death was lamented, and her me- mory celebrated, not only in this, but in feveral other nations. Her reign lafled but nine days; and this ciicumll-ance is fuppofed to have given rife to the common proverb of, A nine days ivohder,

Hugh Latimer, bifhop of Worcefter, and a mar- tyr, in the fixteenth century, was thefon of Hugh Latimer, a yeoman, at Thurcafton, in Leicefter- ihire, and born at that place about the vear 14.80.

'He

LEICESTERSHIRE. 217

He received his education ici Ch rift's -college, in Cambridge, where he took the degree of bat- chelor of divinity ; but it does not appear, that he ever took that of doctor. From this time, to the thirtieth year of his age, he was a moik zealous and violent Papift ; but being converted by Mr. Thomas Bilney, he became as zealous and deter- mined a Proteftant, and preached with great vehe- mence againft the errors and fuperftitions of popery. In 15^9, he was promoted, by the interefl of Thomas Cromwell, afterwards earl of Eilex, to the re6i:ory of Weikinton, in Wiltfhire ; and, in 1535, was raifed to the biflioprick of Worcefter. Re- fufmg, however, to fubfcribe the fix bloody arti- cles, he reflgned his fee in 1539. Upon the accef- fion of king Edward the Sixth, though he did not refume the epifcopal dignity, he again entered upon his minifterial function, which he continued to exerclfe, during that ihort reign, with great vigour and uncommon fuccefs. But, when in 1552, ^^^ bloody queen Mary came to the throne, he was fingled out as one of the firfl vi(51:ims to be facrificed to Popifh cruelty and revenge. Accordingly he was feized, together with bifhop Ridley ; and thefe two worthies, being condemned as heretics, were committed to the flames at Ox- ford, October the i6th, 1555.

Jofeph Hall, a learned prelate and ingenious writer, was born July r, 1574, at Buftow park in this county, and educated at the public fchool of his native place, and at Emanuel-college, in Cambridge. After a6ting for fome time as pro- feflbr of rhetoric in that univerfity, he became fucceffively re6tor of Halfted, dean of Worcefter, bifhop of Exeter, and laftly of Norwich. In 1616, he attended the embafly of lord V'ifcount Doncaf- ter into France ; and the next year was chofcn by his Majefty as one of the divines who fhould ac-

VcL. V, K company

2i8 A Description of

company him into Scotland. In 1618, he was fent by king James to the Synod of Dort, and pitched upon by that learned body to preach be- fore them a Latin fermon. He was obliged, how- ever, by the bad ftate of his health, to leave that aflembly before it broke up ; but he received from them, at the time of his departure, the moft fig- nal marks of their efteem and regard. The ftates too, in compliment to his merit,, beflowed upon him a golden medal. He approved himfelf, du- ring the civil wars, a true Ton of the church of England ; a conduct which expofed him to the refeivtment of the then ruling powers, and reduced him, in his old age, to very great dIfHculties. He died September the 8th, 1656, and was interred in the church-yard of Higham, near Norv/ich. His works are numerous, and eileemed. His me- ditations and his fatires are the bcft known. Fie is a very fententious writer j and from his ftyle, has been frequently denominated the Chriftian Seneca.

William Burton, a very fkllful topographer, and author of The Defcript'ion of Leicejhrjhire^ was born at Lindley in that county, on the 24th cf Auguft, 1575. He had his education in Bra- zen-Nofe-Coilege, in Cambridge. He aftervi^ards fettled in the Middle-Temple, in London, and became a barrifter j but his favourite fludy was that of antiquities, in which he made a confidera- ble progrefs. He died on the 6th of April, 1645. Georai;e Villiers. the firft duke of Buckin2;ham cf that family, and the greateft favourite of two fucceeding monarchs, that ever was known in this, or any other kingdom, was the third fon of Sir George Villiers, and born at Brookfby in Lei- cefterfliire, on the 28th of Auguft, 1592. In his youth he was carefully inftru(R:ed in dancing, fencing, and other ornam-cntal accomplifliments ;

and.

LEICES TE RSHIR E. 219

and, having travelled into France fof his farther improvement in thefe genteel exerciles, he return- ed, at the age of twenty-one, to his native coun- try, when, by the beauty of his perfon, and the politenefs of his addrefs, he foon attra6led the notice of his naajefty king James the Firft, who was apt to be ftruck with fuch fuperficial endow- ments. His firft ftation at court, was that of cup-bearer to his majefty ; from whence he rofe, by a quick and rapid progrefs, to be gentleman of the bed-chamber, rnafter of the horfc, knight of the garter, baron of Whaddon, vifcount Viliiers^ carl and marquis of Buckingham, lord high ad- miral of England, chief-juftice in Eyre, mailer of the king's bench oiHce, lleward of V/cftminftcr, conftable of Windfor-caftle, earl of Coventry ; and, laftofall, duke of Buckingham. In 1623, he accompanied princq Charles (afterwards king Charles the Firft) to Spain, in order to make up the long depending match betvv^een him and the infanta of that kingdom. Upon the death of king James, and the acceilion of king Charles, he continued to enjoy the fame degree of favour with the fon, which he had fo long pofteiTed under the father. His fpirit and his ambition were equal to his high fortune. For, when he was fent to Pa- ris, in order to condudt to England the princefs Henrietta Maria, the king's intended con fort, he had the prefumption to make his addreftcs to the queen dowager of France ; and being thwarted in his views, engaged his fovereign, by way of revenge, in a war with that kingdom. He after- wards commanded the forces fent againftRochelle ; but, being now become univerfally odious, he was ftabbed at Portfmouth by John Felton, a difcontented lieutenant in the army, on the 23d of Auguft, 1628.

K 2 William

220 a^ Description^/*

William Lilly, the famous aftrologer, was born May the ifl, 1602, at Difeworth in Leicefter- fliire, and educated in Grammar learning at Afh- by de la Zouch, under the care of Mr. John BrinHey. He was fervantfirft to a mantua-maker in London, and afterwards to Mr. Gilbert Wright, mafter of the Salters company in that city ; upon whofe death he married the widow, and receiv- ed with her a fortune of loool. Being thus plac- ed in eafy circumftances, he applied himfelf to the ftudy of judicial aftrology, in v>/hich he become at len;2;th a very conllderable proficient, and was confulted by many perfons on the moft important occafions. And fuch was the ignorance or cre- dulity of the age, that no party feems to have been free from this chiidifh delufion. King Charles the Firft, while a prifoner, confulted him twice concerning his efcape. The parliament gave him a penflon of one hundred pounds, and em- ployed him in encouraging their foldiers by his predidfions. He even read public lectures on Chr'ijhan AjiroUgy^ as he phrafed it; and his ha- rano-ues on that fubje6i: met with great applaufe. Nor was his fame confined to the narrow limits of En2;land. He received from the king of Sweden a golden chain, and a medal, on account of the honourable mention he had m^ide of that prince in his almanack. His reputation, however, tho* very firmly eftabliihed, fuftained now and then fome fevere fhocks. He was at one time impri- foncd for reflecting upon the parliament, and at another brought to a trial for giving judgment upon floien goods. Towards the latter end of his life, he retired to Herfnam, where he pradifed phyfic, having previouHy obtained a licenfe for that purpofe ; and a little before his death, he adopted for his fon, by the name of Merlin Ju- n'lor^ one Henry Coley, a taylor, to whom he

made

LEICESTERSHIRE. 221

made a prefent of the imprefTion of his almanack, after it had been printed for thirty- fix years fuc- cellively. He died of the palfey June the 9th, 168 r, and was interred in the church of V/altoii upon Thames.

William Beveridore, a learned divine and venc- rable prelate in the feventc^nth and eighteenth centuries, was born at Barrow in Leiceilerfliire, in the year 1638. After finifhing his ftudies at Cambridge, where he diftinguifhed himfelf by his fkill in the oriental languages, he became fuccel- fively vicar of Yealing in Middlefex, reclor of St, Peter's, Cornhill, London, prebendary of St. Paul's cathedral, archdeacon of Colchefter, pre- bendary of Canterbury, chaplain in ordinary to king William and queen Mary j and, in 1 704, was advanced to the bifliopric of St. Afaph. This dignity, however, he enjoyed but a fhort time ; for he died at his lodgings in the cloyfters in Weirminfter- Abbey, March the 5th, 1708; and his body was interred in St. Paul's cathedral. He wrote Private noughts upon Religion ; Private Thoughts upon a Chrijlian Life ; ayi Expofition of the Church Catcchifm ; Thefaurus Thcclogicus ; and feveral other works.

William Whifton, a learned divine in the be- ginning of the eighteenth century, was the fon of a clergyman, and born December the 9th, 1667, at Norton near TwycrolTe, in Leicefterihire. He had his education at Clare-hall, Cambridge, where he applied himfelf to mathematics, and to the Cartefian philofophy ; but em.bracing foon after the Newtonian doctrine, he wrote a New Theory of the Earth, agreeable to thofe principles, in 1698 he was prefented by the bifliop of Norv/ich to the living of Loweftoft cum Keflingland in Suffolk ; and in 1701 he was named by Sir Ifaac Newton as his deputy in the mathematical pro- K 3 fcflbrfhip

5 2a A Description of

feflbrfhip at Cambridge. About two years after he fucceeded that great man in the mathematical chair ; and in the mean time publiflied his Chro- nology of the Old Tejlament^ and his Racquet's Eu- did. In 1707 he was chofen to preach the fer- mons at Boyle's ledture ; but difclofing, foon af- ter, his peculiar fentiments concerning the "rri- nity, he involved himfelf, by that means, in in- extricable difficulties. Continuing to perGfl im- movably in his opinion, he was ftript of his pre- ferments, and expelled the univerllty. In 1711 he was fummoned before the convocation, and his opinions condemned as heretical ; but this {''<\\' tence was not confirmed by her m.ajefly. He was afterwards profecuted in the fpi ritual court ; but no kind of punilhrnent was inflicted upon him. In conjundion with Mr. Ditton, he publiflied a new method for difcovering tlie longitude at fea, and a large fum was raifed for the purpofe, l^he fcheme, however, in the end proved abortive. He Jived in great intimacy with her majefly que(!ri Caroline, and with Pope, Addifon, Walpole, fe- cretary Craggs and others ; and, what by their in- tereft, and the fale of his works, he acquired a very comfortable fubfiflance. Towards the latter end of his life he abandoned. the communion of the church of England, and embraced that of the Bap - tills ; and dying Auguft 22, 1752, was interred at London in Rutland, in the county of Lin- coln. He feems to have been a man of con- ifiderable parts, of extenfive learning, and of great piety and integrity ; but too dogmatical with re- gard to fome points, in which, perhaps it is impoffible for any one to obtain an abfolute cer- tainty. Befides the works above-mentioned, he wrote, Prale^iones Phyfico Mathematics^ Alemoir^ of his own Life^ and variety of other tra61:s.

William

LEICESTERSHIRE. 223

William Cave, a very learned divine of the feventecnth and eighteenth centuries, was born at Pickwell, in Leicefterfhire, of which parifh his father was re6lor. In 1653 ^^ ^'^^ admitted into St. John's colleo;e in Cambridge, where he took the degrees of bachelor, and mafter of arts, i -is firft ftation in the church was that of vicar of Iilington in Middlsfex ; from whence he v/ab pro- moted fucceiTively to be chiiplain to king Charles the Second, rector of Alhallows the Great iii Thames-ftreet, London, canon of Windfor, and vicar of Ifleworth in Middlefex. He died at Windfor on the 4th of Auguft, 17/3. He was the author of feveral excellent v/orks.

Roger Cotes, a great mathematician, and Pla- mian profeffor of aftronomy, and experimen- tal philofophy in the univerfity of Cambridge, was the fon of the reverend Mr. Robert Cotes, and born at Burbage in Leiceikrfhire, July the lOth, 1682. Difcovcring in his youth a ftrong inclination to the mathematics, he was encourag- ed to purfue his ftudies by his uncle Mr. John Smith, a clergyman in Lincolnfhire, who pre- vailed upon his father to fend him to St. Paul's fchool in London, and afterwards to Trinity college in Cambridge. In 1706 he was appoint- ed profeflbr of aftronomy upon the foundation laid by Thomas Plume, D. D. archdeacon of ^lochcf- ter ; and he had the double honour of being the firft perfon who enjoyed that ofhce, and of being raifed to it folely on account of his merit. In 1 7 13 he entered into orders, and in the courfe of the fame year publifhed, at the requeft of Dr. Richard Bentley, a fecond edition of Sir Ifaac Newton's Primipia^ enriched with all the im- provements of that great man, and ufhered in with an e.xcellent preface by the editor. He likewife K 4 wrote

2i24 ^ Description, l^e.

wrote a defcription of the great meteor that ap- peared on the 6th of March, 1716; and was di- ligently employed in preparing other works for the prefs, when, to the regret of the univerfity in genera], and of the lovers of mathematical fludies in particular, he was carried off in the prime of his life, on the 5th day of June of the fame year. His Harmony of Meafures was publifhcd after his death ; as were alfo his Hydrojfatical and Fncuivcif ^tical L enures.

LINCOLN-

[ 225 J

.^ r^

^ f^ ,^ ,J9^ ^^ r^ t^ r^. ^ r<S

'i*i' V'."* -f' 'i«i* Vi* *i''i' Vi' -'i *•-♦-•■ .?»'l .•'•■•. ..%\ /•*. .?♦'. .?'*. .•-*•. ••'•• .r>-.

L I N C O L N S H I Pv E.

Jt^^^lf^HIS is a large maritime county, which ^ ^ received its name from the city of Lin-

^ ^ coin, its capital. Jt was called by the ^^^jh( Saxons Lincollfcyre, and by the Nor- mans, on their firft arrival, Nicolfhire. It is bound- ed on the north by the eftuary of the Humber, which feparates it from Yorkfliire ; on the eafl: by tlie German ocean; on the fouth by the counties of Cambridge, Northampton and Rutland, and on the weft by Leicefterfhireand Nottinghamfhire. It extends about feventy miles in length from north to fouth ; forty-five in breadth from eaft to wed ; and according to the befc m.aps is above two hun- dred miles in circumference.

In the time of the ancient Britons and Romans, this was part of the country inhabited by the Co- ritani, and from the remains of antiquity found here, it appears to have been no inconfiderable place in the time of the Romans ; there being ftili evident traces of a Roir.an highway extending thro' the county from fouth to north. Under the Saxons Lincolnfhire belonged to the kingdom of Mercia.

The county of Lincoln is divided by nature in- to three divifions, confifting of fo many tra;fl:s of high elevated land; the South Heath, th^ North Heath, and the Woulds, round and betv/een which three hills, run feveral river?, the land on the banks of which being low and level, ar^d the K 5 ouw-

226 A Description of

out-falls of the rivers being obftruded, fornri what is lifually called the Fens ; and thefe, to people who know the country only by hearfay, form the chara6leri(l:ic of the county.

The South Heath is a tract of elevated held land, as the Saxons ufed to pronounce it, and Vv'hich we call heath, trending almoft directly north and fouth from Stamford to within about a mile of Lincoln \ it being forty-fix miles in length, and about four, at an average, in breadth. The edge of this heath to the weft is, for the mod part, a fteep cliff, and the towns upon this ridge are called the Cliff-row : it flopes away gradually eadward to the Fens, which lie upon the Wel- land and Witham : and there is another row of towns upon the edge of it, next the Fens.

The North Held, or Heath, extends in the fame diredtion to Winteringham on the Trent. The weftern edge of this heath is in like manner a cliff; but it is remarkable, that while all the towns on the South Heath, ftand upon the top of the cliff, thofe on the North Heath, lie at the foot of it. This flopes away eaft of the Fens, which lie about the river Ankham.

The Woulds is a tracl of high land running from Spiifby, about ten or twelve miles north of Boilon, and trending north by weft, about forty miles, to Barton upon the Humber, and is, upon an average, about eight miles broad.

Between thefe hills lie the following Fens : firft, thofe through which runs the river Witham, north by eaft from Grantham to Lincoln, below the cliff of the South Heath, at about three or four miles dii]:ance. "Great part of this land is of that fpecies, called moor.

The next is a moorifh tract, between Lincoln and the Trent,

The

LINCOLNSHIRE. 227

The next are the Fens, or drowned lands on the banks of the Ankham, lying between the North Heath and the Woulds, which might eafily be drain- ed, and rendered as fine dry land as any in the world, did not the private intereft of individuals, and the jobs which power and profit alwiays fug- gell, conflantiy intervene to prevent it.

The fourth are the low lands, upon the banks and environs of the river Witham, lying; between the North Heath, the South Heath, and the Woulds, forming a triangle, the three an,2;les of which may be taken to be Lincoln, W'ainHeet, and Crowland. This is a large tract of drowned land, rendered fo by the out-fall of the river Wi- tham being choaked up, but was not originally fo, it having been, as appears not only from tradi- tion, but by evident marks of the lands below the fuper-induced mud, a dry, inhabited, and culti- vated country. Thus, that p< rt of it now called Holland, was formerly a tract of wood-land.

Belides thefe, there is a moft excellent tract of land, extending eaft at the foot of the Woulds, along the fea-fhore, from Wainfleet to Barton. This is in general about ten miles broad, but at length narrows, till it comes to a point at Barton, upon the banks of the Hum.ber. This is a tract of land gained from the fea, and is therefore cal- led the Marfh, or Marifli, from the Latin iMarif- cus, and the French Marais. The fea is, all a- long the fhore, banked out by great banks of earth, equal to the largeft ramparts of the ftrongelt fortified towns in Europe. In thefe banks are fix- ed iluices, called in the language of the country Goats, which have folding doors pointing to the fea. Thefe the cfHux of the frefh water open v/hen tide is down, and the reflux of the lealliuts when the tide rifes. This whole tracSt is drained by artihcial canals, called in the language of the

country

228 yfDESCRIPTION of

country Eaus and Ufleets. The country thus drained is firm, and wears a perpetual verdure, maintaining a conftant vegitation. To defcribe the origin and nature of this tradl, v/ould require a treatife of itfelf, containing matters of the great- eft peculiarity and curiofity, but this lies beyond the bounds of the prefent work.

The Wafhes of this county have been much talked of, and are terrible toftrangers, though no danger is to be apprehended from them, if they have the prudence to take a guide, a precaution that is highly neceflary. Thefeare fituated at the mouth of the river Welland, called Fofillyke- "wafli, and at that of the river Oufe* called Crofs- keys-wafh. Twice every twenty-four hours, fix hours each time, during the recefs of the tide, they are fordable, and eafy to be paiTed over ; but during the intermediate fix hours, they are cover- ed with the flux of the ocean, which forms a kind of bay. Formerly people travelled over what was called the Long-walh, betv^een Lynn and Bofton, entirely upon the fands or Ikirts of the ocean ; but this is now quite impradicable. Here king John loft all his carriages among the creeks and quick-fands, the memory of which is preferved by the corner between Crofs-keys-wafli and Lynn, being called King's Corner.

With refpeft to the nature of the rocks and- foil, it is proper to obferve, that the North and South Heath, which united, extend thro' the whole county, from Stamford to Winteringhara, is quite through a rock of white rag-ftone, that rifcs in ftrata, which encreafes inthicknefs in pro- portion to its depth. Hence Dr. Stukeley ob- lerves, that the river Witham, which rifes to the weft of this ridge, muft have run into the Hura- ber, had not nature made a breach in this ledge ©f hillsj by the great valley under Liocoln> and thus

foxrosd

LINCOLNSHIRE. 229

formed a paffage for It into the eftuary in the fouth-eaft part of the county, called the Wafh. The fame learned gentleman adds, that the ftone upon this weftern clifF is full of fea-fhells, and that when the univerfal deluge had carried thofe inhabitants of the ocean into the inland parts of the county, they being, by their weight, unapt to retire again with the waters, were intercepted by this cliff, and received into the nafcent Hone.

We have already obferved, that the fouth-eafl part of the county, called Holland, was once a wood, and there are there found infinite quantities of fubterranean trees, lying three or four feet deep. They are of a vaft bulk, and of different fpecies, but chiefly fir and oak, exceeding hard, heavy and black ; and their branches fometimes lie fo near the furface, as to break the ploughs of the hufbandmen. About the villages of Kyme and Billingay, there have been dug up fome boats or canoes made of the hollow trunks of trees ; but what appears ftill more extraordinary, is the fkeleton of a crocodile fixed in a flat ftone, which was difcovered in this county, and is now to be feen in the Mufeum of the Royal Society of Lon- don. The above gentleman is of opinion, that thefe phenomena can no otherwife be accounted for but by the univerfal deluge.

With refpecSl to foflils, it is proper to obferve, that at a village named Stratton, between Lin- coln and Ganefborough, are found the ophites, or ferpent ftones, a kind of variegated marble of a dulky green, fprinkled with fpots of a lighter green ; and aftroites, or ftar ftones, fo called from their refemblance to a ftar, are found in this coun- ty, near Belvoir Caftle.

The air of this county is different in different parts ; for in the di-vifion called Holland, a great part of the land h fre(]_aently overflowed, confe-

quent?y

230 A Description of

quently the air is aguifh, efpecially to ftrangers. Likev/ife that part of the divifion called Kefteven, which joins to Holland, cannot be very healthy. However, in the middle and weflern parts, the air is as falubrious as in any part of the kingdom.

The principal rivers that water Lincolnfnireare the Trent, the Welland, the Dun, the Witham, and the Ankam. The Trent rifes in Stafford- Ihire, and runs north-eaft through the counties of Derby and Nottingham, then running north, parts the iaft mentioned county from Lincolnfhire, and fails into the Humbcr.

The Welland has its fource In Northampton- fhire, and running from thence into Lincolnfhire, pafTes by Stamford, Market Deeping and Spal- ding, and then difcharges itfelf into a bay of the German ocean, called the Wafhes.

The Dun rifes in Yorkfhire, and inclofmg, to- gether with the Trent, a confiderable piece of land, in the north-weft part of the county, dif- tinguifhed by the name of the Ifle of Axholm, falls into the Trent, near its conflux with the Humber.

The Witham rifes at a little tov/n called Poll Witham, near Grantham, in this county, and flowing north-eaft, paffes by Lincoln, whence di- recting its courfe to the fouth-eaft, it falls into the entrance of the inlet, called the Wafnes, near Bofton.

The Ankam rifjs to the north of Lincoln, and after taking a cu.ve to the fouth-eaft, turns to the north, and continues that courfe till it falls into the Humber, to the eaft of the Trent.

Thefe rivers, together v/ith the fea, afFord the inhabitants plenty of all forts of fifh, and water- fowl. Lhere is in particular a fort of pike found in the Witham peculiar to that river, and fuperior to all others.

Befides

LINCOLNSHIRE. 231

Eefides thefe rivers, there are, in the fens ot Cambridgefhire, many very extenfive artificial ca- nals, made to drain the lands, particularly, as we have already obferved, in the fouth-eaft part of the county, called Holland. Among thefe is a canal, called Cardike, which Dr. Stukeley is firm- ly perfuaded, was a work of the Romans ; and thinks it highly probable, that Catus Decianus, the procurator in Nero's time, Vv^as the proje6lor of it.

Lincolnfhire has feveral mineral fprlngs, one of which is at Cawthorp, a village about ten miles to the northv/ard of Stamford, where the fpririg rifes up in a large bafon in the middle of the ftreet. This water will turn very white with oil of tar- tar, and afterwards let fall a yellow fediment ; but it turns green with fpirit of hartihorn. A pint will yield a fcruple of a white fediment, of which near one, half is fiilt, and the other earth. It Is a purging chalybeate, and is probably a great cor- redlor of acidities.

In the parifh of Stainfield, near Bourn, is a water that is pleafant and fweet to the tafte ; bu£ will curdle v/ith foap, and turns of a pearl co- lour with oil of tartar. A gallon of it contains four fcruples of white fediment, whereof forty- four grains are earth, thirty nitre, and eight fea fait. It is an efFeilual remedy in the cure of fluxes and the diabetes ; as alfo in all internal haemorrhages, and profufe night fweats.

There are other mineral waters at Walcot, Peckworth, Newton, and Aferby ; but their vir- tues have not been v/ell afcertained by phyficians.

'I he foil of this county is in general extremely fruitful ; the inland parts produce corn of all forts in plenty, and the fens cole-feed, and the richefi paftures ; for which reafon the oxen and fhecp are of an extraordinary fize. It is alfo remarkable

for

232 A Description of

for excellent dogs, as v;ell greyhounds as maf- tiffs. It likewife abounds in game of all kinds, and fo great is the plenty and variety of wild-fowl, that this county has been called the aviary of Eng- land. Two fowls, called the knute and the dot- terel, are delicious food, and faid to be found no where elfe in England. The dotterel is remarka- ble for imitating all the adions of the fov/Ier ; for if he ftretches out his arm, the bird will ftretch out his wing, and if he ftretches out his leg to- wards the bird, the bird ftretches out one of his legs towards him ; by this means the fowler ap- proaches nearer and nearer to it, till he has an op- portunity of throwing his net over it j and it is cafily taken, efpecially by candle light. Between Lincoln and Bofton is fometimes iztxx the fowl called a buftard, which is found no where t\[^ in England, except in Salift)ury plain. There are likewife teal, quails, woodcocks, pheafants, par- tridges, and other fowl common in England.

It will be proper here to take notice of the vad number of water-fowl, particularly the ducic, mallard, teal, and widgeon, which are taken here in the fens, in decoys formed for that purpofe. Thefe decoys are very lar2;e ponds, dug in the fens, with four or five creeks fhooting from them. to a great length, and each growing gradually nar- rower, till it comes to a point. The banks are well planted with willows, fallows, oziers, and the like kinds of underwood. Into thefe ponds the fowl are enticed by ducks, bred up tame for that purpofe ; for the decoy-ducks being fed con- ftrantly, at certain places, at length become fo fa- miliar, as to feed out of the hand, and as they are not confined, they fly abroad, and return at pleafure. During the proper feafon of the year, we arc told, they take frequent flights, and fome- times, after being gone feveral weeks, return home

wit'h

LINCOLNSHIRE. 233

with numerous flocks of fowl, which they are fuppofed to have invited from Holland, and other parts of the continent, to partake of their enter- tainment. The decoy-man no fooner perceives that thefe numerous flocks are fettled in the pond, than he goes down fecretly to the angles of the pond, under the cover of hedges, made with reeds, and then throws over them handfuls of corn, into fuch fhallow places as the decoy-ducks are acquainted with, and to which they immedi- ately refort, followed by the Grangers. Thus, they are for feveral days entertained without any diftur- bance, the bait being fometimes thrown in one place, and fometimes in another, till they are at length infenfibly lead into the narrow canals of the pond, where the trees on each fide hang over head like an arbor, though at a good height from the water. Here the boughs are conducted with fuch art, that a large net is fpread near the tops of the trees, and faflened to hoops, which reach from fide to fide, though the pallage is fo wide and lof- ty, that! the fowl do not perceive the net above them. Mean while the decoy-man going for- ward behind the reeds, throws corn into the wa- ter, which the decoy-ducks greedily fall upon, and encourage their vifitors, till by degrees they are all got under thefweep of the net, which im- perceptibly grows lower and narrower, till it ends in a point, like a purfe, perhaps two or three hun- dred yards from the firfl entrance. When the de- coy-man perceives that they are all within the net, a dog, that is perfeclly taught his bufinefs, rufhes from behind the reeds into the water, fwim- mingdire61:ly after the fowl, and barking at them. Immediately they take wing, but being beat down, naturally fwim forward, to avoid the dog, till they are at laft hurried into the purfe, where they fall a prey to ths decoy-man, who there waits to re- ceive

234 ^ Description of

ceive them. All this is done with fo little diilur- bance, that the wild-ducks left in the great pond take no notice of it, fo that a fmgle decoy-man, having feized all the fowl in one of thefe creeks or canals, goes round to execute the fame game at all the reft, alv/ays taking care to dillinguiih the decoy-ducks, and reftore them to liberty. By this means incredible numbers of v.'ild-fowl are taken every week during the feafon, moft of which arc fep.t up to London. In fliort, the produce of thefe decoys is {o great, that fome of them are iett for four or five hundred pounds a year.

The fruits of Lincolnfhire are the fame as in the other counties ; only the Kentifh pippin thrives here better than in many other parts of England ; ajid there is a fort of pippen in a manner peculiar to it, and which growing about Kirton, is from thence called the Kirton pippin.

The plants and herbs morecomimon in Lincoln- fhire than in other counties, are,

Arach, or fea-orach, Atriplcx mar'itima^ hall- mus d'lcta^ &c. found plentifully near "Saiibeck, about a mile diHant from Bofton.

Common carawavs. Car urn vulgar e^ plentifully in the marfhes and fenny grounds.

Chickweed-knot-grafs, Alfme polygonoides ten?!:- fol'ia^ he. with its narrov/ leaves and flowers fet along the ftalks, as it were in fpikes.

Fair flowered nurfe hemp, Cannapis fburia Jiore amplo^ growing plentifully in the fenny grounds about Spalding.

Golden dock, Lapathum flore aureo, in Lower Holland.

Marfii gentian, or calathian violet, Pneunio^ tianthe gentiana paluflris^ feu calath'ina palufirls^ in a park at Tatterfhal, and the heathy grounds in its neighbpurhood,

Propwort,

LINCOLNSHIRE. 235

Propwort, or wild vine, Oenanthe SiaphiUni folio ^ &C. with leaves fomewbat refembling the wild parfnip, found in the marflies and ditches in the parifh of Whaplode near Spalding.

Swallow thorn, Oleajler Germanicus^ in great plenty on the fea banks on Lindfey coafts.

This county is divided into three provinces ; which, beginning at the north, are, firft Lind- fey, called by Bede Lindifii, as is fuppofed from the city of Lindum or Lincoln, and is fubdivided into fcventeen wapentakes or hundreds. Second- ly, Kcfleven, comprehending the fouth-weilern part of the county, and by an ancient writer call- ed Ceoftefne-wood, as is imagined from a large foreft, formerly within this divifion, which con- tains ten wapentakes or hundreds ; and thirdly, Holland, comprehending the fouth-eaft part of Lincolnfhire, and fubdivided into three v/apentakes or hundreds. Thus the v,'hole county is fubdi- vided into thirty hundreds or wapentakes, in Vv'hich are contained the city of Lincoln, and the fol- lowing thirty-one market tov/ns. Alford, Bar- ton, Binbrcke, Boilcn, Bourn, Bullingbroke, Burgh, Burton, Caftor, Corby, Crowland, Deep- ing-m.arket, Dunnington,' Fokingham, Gainef- borough, Glandford-bVidge, Grantham, Holbech, Horncaftle, Kirkton, Louth, Rafen- market. Salt- fleet, Sleaford, Spalding, Spilfby, Stamford, Stan- ton, Tatterflial, and Wainfieet. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and diocefe of Lincoln ; contains fix hundred and thirty pariflies, and fends twelve reprefentatives to parliament ; namely, two knights of the fhire for the county, two citizens' for Lincoln, and two members ff r each of the following boroughs, Stamford, Bofton, Grant- ham, and Grimfby.

We fhall defcribe all the principal towns of this county, according to the topographical de-

fcriptiou

2 j6 A Description of

fcription we have given it, as they (land on the feveral trails of South Heath, North Heath, and the Woulds, or in the feveral fens and marfhes : yet fhall, as nearly as pofTible, keep to cur ac- cuftomed method of following the roads from one extremity of the county to the other. As moft of the principal towns are on the fens and marfhes, near the fea-fhore and the rivers, on account of the inhabitants enjoying the advantages arifing from navigation and commerce, we fhall begin with them j and entering the fouth-weft part of the county from Northamptonfaire, firft defcribe Stamford, and proceed through the fouth>eaft part of the country called Holland.

Stamford, or Stanford, is thus called from its ancient Saxon name Steanford. It is f.-atcd on the river Welland, near the foot of the North Heath, on the borders of Lincolnfhire, North amptoiifl^ii re and Rutlandfnirc, at the dif- tance of eighty-three miles north by vvelf of Lon- don, and is a large, populous, and rich town, with a handfome Hone bridge over the Welland into Northamptonfhire. It is one of the largeil and ncateft market towns in this county; it con- fiding of feveral handfome ftreets, and has many elegant buildings. It had once fourteen churches j but in the reign of king Edward the Sixth, they were reduced by aiSl of parliament to feven, and befides thefe, there are feveral meeting-houfes of diffenters. One of the churches, named St. Mar- tin's, fjands on the eaft fide of the river, in a part of the town called Stamford Baron ; which is in- deed in Northamptonfhire, though rated within the jurifdiiSlion of this corporation, and upon that account is alfo called by the name of Stamford. In this church lies interred the great Cecil, lord Bur- leigh, the favourite of queen Elizabeth, under a magnificent tomb. Near the bridge there is a

churchy

LINCOLNSHIRE. 237

church, in which is a fine monument of the eari and countefs of Exeter in white marble, with their figures, as big as the life, in a cumbent pof- ture, done at Rome ; and oppofite the church is an inn, known by the fign of the George, which is thought to be the largeft in England ; but there is a much nobler fir u6lu re of the fame kind in this town, called the Bull inn; which forms a handfome quadrangle of free-ftone, with fafhcd windows, and has the appearance of a palace. Here is a fine town-hall, and near the town is a new courfe for horfe-races. Moft of the houfcs are covered with flate, and taking the whole town together, it may juftly be confidered as the moft compact and beft built town in the county. It is governed by a mayor, a recorder, and his de- puty, twelve aldermen, a town clerk, twenty-four capital burgeiTes, and two ferjeants at mace. Its firft charter was before the reign of Edward the Fourth, and it had others from Charles the Se- cond and James the Second, but thefe laft being only temporary, are expired. The inhabitants have very extraordinary privileges, particularly a freedom from the jurifdiction of the fheriff of the county, and from being empannelled on juries out of the town : they are exempted from the government of all lord lieutenants ; are entitled to have the returns of all writs, and claim the privilege of having the militia of the town com- manded by their ovvn officers; in fhort, the mayor being the king's lord lieutenant, and immediately und:;r his majefry's com.mand, he is eftcemed, v.'ithin the liberties and jurifdiclion of the town, the fecund man in the kingdom. The chief trade in the town confift in free-ftone, obtained from a neighbouring quarry, and in fea-coal and malt.

Some pretend, that there was an univerfity here long before the birch of Jcfus Chrift 3 but this is

not

S38 A Description of

not at all probable ; for there was neither leani« ing, nor learned men, in England at that time, any more than there is now among the favagcs of North America. However, it feems to be pretty plain, that there was one here before the reign of Edv/ard the Third ; there being ftill the remains of two colleges, called Black hall, and Brazen 2iofe J and on the gate of this laft, is a brazen nofe, with a ring run through it, like that at Ox- ford. Some likewife feem confident, that this was not a pattern of that at Oxford, but that at Oxford of this. It is certain, that the Oxford ftu- dents removed hither in the reign of Edward the Third, on account of a quarrel \ but as they on- ly ftaid a few months, it cannot be fuppofed they could build two colleges in that fhort fpace of time, which renders it highly probable, that they were already built to their hands, and made ufc of before. From fome remains of antiquity found here, it appears to have been no inconfiderable place in the time of the Romans ; and there are llill the traces of a Roman highway running from fouth to north, paffing through the tov/n.

Here was fought the firll battle between the Britons and Saxons, in which the former were entirely routed, and left their enemies in the pof- fefiion of the lieJd. In the reign of king Stephen^ there ftood a caftle in the middle of the town, the foundation plot of which is faid to be Oill vifible : and here the cuftom of Borough Engliih ftill fub- fifls, by which the youngeft fon is his father's heir.

With refpecl to the charitable foundations at this place, here is an hofpital, ereci:ed and en- dowed in the reign of king Henry the Seventh, by William Brown, who had been twice mayor, for a warden, twelve men and a nurfe. An hof- pital v/as likewife erected and endowed here by

the

LINCOLNSHIRE. 239 the lord Burleigh. Here is alfo a charity-fchool, in which eighty children are taught and employ- ed ; twenty of them wholly maintained and cloathed, and the reft fuppiied with wheels, reels, fire and candles j they are faid to earn 4C0I. a year.

This town gives the title of earl to the noble family of Grey, it has two markets, on Mon- days and Fridays ; and the following fairs, Tuef- day before February 13, Monday before A4idlent, Monday before Auguft 12, for horfes, and llock of all forts; Midlent-Monday, for all forts of ha- berdafhery ; Monday before May 12, Monday after Cropus Chrifti, June 13, Auguft 5, No- vember 8, for horfes and ftock o^ all forts.

In the reign of king Richard the Firft, the in- habitants of this town, influenced by fuperftition, fell upon the many Jew^s who then lived there, and barbaroufly murdered them.

The ancient religious foundations here were pretty numerous. There was a priory of Bene- dictine monks, which was a cell to the monaftery of Durham, dedicated to St. Leonard, and was valued at the fuppreffion at 25 1. is. 2d. a year. This is now a farm-houfe, ftill called St. Cuth- bert'b fee. On the eaft fide of the town, north of St. Leonard's, without Paulgate, ftood a houfe of Prancifcan or Grey friars, founded before the forty-eighth of Edward the Third. On the fame fide of the town, near the river, was a convent of Dominican, or Black friars, founded before the year 1240. Here was alfo a houfe of Carmelite, or White friars, founded, according to Speed, by king Edward the Third ; but Tanner, with greater probability, imagines it to have been founded by king Edward the Firft, in whofe time it occurs,

Stamford

240 A Description of

Stamford is furrounded on all fides by noble- mens and gentlemens feats, fome of which are, perhaps, the fineft in England j witnefs that no- ble and ancient palace of the Burleigh family, within a mile of Stamford, which was defigned by the moft celebrated architect that ever this kingdom produced, and from which that fingular- ]y wife and honourable councellor Sir William Cecil, lord high treafurer of England, received the title of baron Burleigh, at the hands of queen Elizabeth. The carvings, and efpecialiy the paintings in this houfe, are fo curious, that feveral Travellers have declared, they have met with no- thing equal to them either in Italy or France.

Within a few miles of this place, ftands that delightful feat of the duke of Ancafter, whofe park is laid out with fuch elegance and variety, that it juilly attracts the admiration of all who vifit it.

Many other places in this neighbourhood de- ferve particular mention, but I ihall only obferve in general, that for feveral miles round, this is as pleafant and as fine a fporting country, as is to be found in the ifiand of Great-Britain.

At about eight miles diflance to the north-eafl of Stamford is Deeping, or Market-Deep- ing, an ill-built dirty town, on the road from Peterborough to Lincoln, fituated among the fens, on the north fide of the Welland, at the diilance of eighty-feven miles fromLondon. Here Richard de Roulo?, chamberlain to W'illiam the Conqueror, by throwing up a high bank, kept out that river, which ufed to overflow the town. It has a market on Thurfdays, vrith three fairs, which are held on the fecond Wcdnefday after May 1 .' , on theWednefday before the ift of Au- guff, and on October lo, for horfes, ftock, and timber of all forts. Near this place is a vale,

many

L IN C O L N S H I R E. 241

many miles in compafs, and the deeped in all ths niarihy country, from which the town is thought to have received its name. Deeping fignifying a deep meadow :

In this tov/n was anciently a cell of black monks, dedicated to St. James, and belonging to Thor- cey abbey in Cambridgefhire, to which it v/as given by Baldwin, the fon of Giflebert, in the year 1 130.

About fix miles to the call: of Deeping Is Crowland, or Croyland, which is feated in the midft of a vaft fenny level, rendered an ifland by its being encompaffed by the Welland, the Waihes, the Nyne, and the Shire drain, at the diftance of eighty-eight miles north of London, and is fo furrounded with bogs, that it is acceffi- ble only on the north and eafi: fides, and even there not for carriages j whence arofe the proverb, that " All the carts that come to Crowland are fhod *' with filver." The town is, however, pretty well inhabited ; and confifls of three ftreets built on piles, and feparated by water-courfes, planted on each fide with willows; they having a com- munication with each other by a bridge of a tri- angular form, fifing from three fegments of a cir- cle, and meeting in a point at the top. It feems to have been built under the dlreillon of the ab- bots of Crowland, rather to excite admiration, and furnifli a pretence for coUedling money, than' for any real ulc ; for, tho' it ilands in a moorifli ground, and mull: have coft a vaft fum, yet it is fo fteep in its afcent and defcent, that neither car- riages nor horfemen can go over it, and therefore they pafs under it. The river Nyne and Wel- land, with a ftream called Catt-water, on the fides of which the ftreets of the town are built, all meet under the arch, and there forming one Vol. V. L river.

2:42 A Description of

river, flo\\^ from thence thro' Spalding into the Wafhes, and from thence into the fea. On the foot, which faces the London road, is placed, in a fitting poflure, a ftatue of king Ethelbald, who has a crown fleury on his head, and a globe in his right hand. As king Ethelbald was upon the throne, on" iy from the year 856 to 860, the building of this bridge may be fixed about the laft mentioned date ; and it appears to be the oldeft Gothic {lru6ture we have remaining entire in the kingdom. It is faid, that each bafe of this biidge ftands in a different county ; one in Lincolnfhire, another in Nor- thamptonfhire, and the third in Cambridgefhire ; but this does not appear to be ftridly true.

Notwithftanding- the inhabitants have the ad-

o

vantage of this bridge, their cattle are kept at fuch a diftance, that they go in boats to milk them. Their greateft gain arifes from fifh and wild ducks, which laft are here fo extremely plen- tiful, that they fometimes take in the net of their decoys three thoufand at once. For the li- berty of fifhing in the many pools in and near the town, they now pay to the king, as they did for- merly to the abbey there, 300 1. a year. The market is held on Saturdays ; and there is one fair, held on the 4th of September, for cattle, hemp and flax.

Croyland abbey was firft built by Ethelbald, king of Mercia, and dedicated to St. Mary, St. Bartholomew, and St. Guthlake. It was af- terwards burnt by the Danes in 870; but was rebuilt by king Edred in the year 948, and continued in great fplendour and wealth till the general difTolution, when its revenues amounted, according to Dugdale, to 1083 1. ^5 s« 10 d. a year ; but, according to Speed, to upwards of 1277 1. The foundation of this abbey is laid on

woodea

Vo/.Vpa.-ii3

LINCOLNSHIRE. 243

wooden piles. The conventual church was co- vered with vaft beams of oak and leaded, and un- der that was an inward roof of oak, compofed of ribbed arches joined with rofes, Sec. carved, paint- ed and gilt. The windows in the great ifle were all very large, and in them the hillory of the Old and New Teftament were elegantly painted ia the glafs, and between each window were images of the faints, prophets and apoftles, as large as the life, of oak, painted and gilt ; what is left feems not to have been one half of this minder when in its glory, exclufive of the cloyfters and conventual buildings about it. The fteeple now remaining is an arch pointing upwards. The win- dows and doors of the great weftern ifle or nave v/ere curioufly carved, and on each, from the bot- tom to the top of the window at the weft end, are images, the lower as large as the life, fupported by corbel ftones, and covered with pinnacle work : over this window are the images of the apoftles, and St. Guthlake, who with St. Bartholomev/ were, as we have before obferved, the tutelar iaints of this convent. Over the doors is the hif- tory of the life and death of St. Guthlake, the hermit, in alto relievo, diftinguifhed into five fe- veral pieces, by compartments of bold foliage, all which has been painted and gilt. Of this ftruc- ture we have given a fouth-weft view, as it nov/ appears.

Upon a hillock not far from the abbey arc the remains of a little ftone cottage, called Anchor church-houfe, where St. Guthlake lived a her- mit, and where he was buried.

Spalding is an ancient well built town, fitu-

ated ten miles north of Crowland, and ninety-

<cight from London, in the road from Peterborough

to Bofton. It is encompaiTed on every fide by

L 2 rivers

244 -^Description of

rivers and canals, and at a greater diftance are lakes and other bodies of water : but it is a much neater and more populous town than could be expeded in fuch a fituation. It has a large and handfome market place, a free grammar-fchool for the fons of the inhabitants, and a charity-fchool. The town has a fmall port, and a bridge over the Wel- land, which is navigable up to the town for vef- fels of fifty or fixty tons. To this port belong feveral barges, which are chiefly employed in car- rying coals and corn. It has a very good market on l^uefdays, for corn, cattle and provifions, with five fairs j namely, on April 27, for hemp and ilax, June 29, for horfcs and cattle, on Auguft 30, for horfes, and on September 25, and De- cember 17, for hemp and flax.

Several Roman antiquities have been found here, particularly fome cifterns, of which an ac- count is given in the Philofophical Tran factions. No. 279; and Dr. Stukeley conjectures, there was a caftle here on the north fide of the town, on the right hand of the great road to Bofton, the fquare form of the ditch ftill remaining.

Spalding was once famous for its priory, which rofe from very fmall beginnings; for, in the year 1052, Thorold de Bukenhale, gave a houfe and lands for the maintenance of a prior and five monks from Crowland, who, after the conqueft, were forced to abandon this cell, by the barbarous treatment they received from Yvo Tailboys, earl of Angiers in France, and lord both of Spalding and great part of the adjacent country : but in 1074, that nobleman gave the church of St. Ma- ry, and the manor of this place, to the abbey of St. Nicholas at Angiers, from whence were fent fome BenediCline monks. Thus it became aa alien priory, dedicated to St. Mary and St. Ni- cholas. In the twentieth year of Henry the Sixth

it

LINCOLNSHIRE. 24^

it was given to King's college in Cambridge : and in the firft of Edward the Fourth, to Sion abbey in Middlefex ; but being at length made a priora- tiis indigena^ and at laft an abbey, it continued till the general fuppreflion, when its annual reve- nues v/ere valued at 767 1. 8 s. I id.

HoLEECH is feated in the fen co'jntry, about nine miles north-eafl of Spalding, and is famous for its church, which is large and \vt\\ built, v/ith a flrong tower and lofty fteeple. It is dedicated to all the Saints, and had formerly fine painted ■windows. In this town is a free-lchool founded about the year i66v9, by George Farmer, Efqv who endowed it with lands, which with other be- iiefa<Stions produce about 50 1. a year. The mar- ket is held on Thurfdays, and it has two fairs ; iiamely, en May 17, and the fecond Tuefday in September, for horfes.

In this town and its neighbourhood have been found feveral antiquities, and particularly an urn, many coins, the rubbifh of ancient buildings, and an old brafs feal, on which was a man in long robes, with two efcutcheons ; on one three cocks, and on the other a portcullis: the legend sovra-

BLA DEVS OLER.

Fleet, a village near Holbech, is remarkable for the fleeple {landing at a diftance from the church. Here was found, not many years ago, three pecks of Roman copper coins, piled down edgeways, moftof them of the emperor Gallienus.

About two miles to the foutheaft of Holbech is Gedney, a village remarkable for its beautiful church, built, as Dr. Stukeley fuppofes, by the abbots of Crowland, who had a houfe on the north fide of the church, and large pofleffions in the pa- rifh ; the upper part of the tower is of the fame date with the church, but built upon older work.

L % We

ii46 A Description tif

We {hall now leave the ifland of Crowland, in order to examine the weftern part of the dif- trI6t, called Holland, and (hall proceed to Bourn, which is fituated nine miles to the weft by fouth of Spalding ; fix miles and a half to the north of Market-Deeping, and thirty-five foiith of Lin- coln, at the head of a fpring, called Bournwell- head, which produces a river that runs thro' the town. It is remarkable for being the place where, according to the vulgar opinion, king Edmund was crowned ; but better accounts inform us, that his coronation was performed at Bucrs in Suffolk, Bourn ftands in a plain adjoining to the fens ; but enjoys a mild air. The principal bufmefs of the inhabitants is tanning of leather. It has a fmall market on Saturdays j and three fairs, on March 7, May 6, and 0(Slober 29, for horfes and horned Ciittle.

Bourn had formerly an abbey of canons regular of the order of St. Auguftine, founded by Bald- win, the fon of Giflebert de Gaunt, about the year 1138. It was dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul ; and at the diffolution had eleven canons, when its revenues were valued at 197 1. jy s. 5 d. per annum.

William Cecil lord Burleigh, and lord high- treafurer of England in the reign of queen Eliza- beth, was the fon of Richard Cecil, Efq; groom of the robes to king Henry the Eighth, and was born in this town in the year 152 1. He was edu- cated at Cambridge, where he became reader of the fophiftry ledure when but fixteen years of age 5 he read the Greek -eclure when but nine- teen ; and both thefe offices he difcharged with- out any pay or falary, and merely as a gentleman for his exercife and amufement. Having finifhed his courfe of academical learning, he removed to Gray's Inn, London, and applied himfelf to the

ftudy

LINCOLNSHIRE. 247

fludy of the common law ; but he had not conti- nued long in this new ftation, when an accident introduced him to the knowledge and favour of his fovereign. Coming one day, to fee his father at court, he entered into a difpute in Latin with two Roman Catholic priefls, and managed the ar- gument with fo much dexterity and addrefs, that his antagonifts were foiled, and put into a down- right paffion. King Henry the Eighth, who then filled the throne, was no fooner informed of this circumftance, than he fent for him, and granted him the reverfion of the Cuftos Brevium. In the reign of king Edward the Sixth, he was appointed maf- ter of requefls and fecretary of ftate; and though, upon the fall of his noble patron, the duke of So- merfet, he was thrown into the Tower, he yet, foon after, recovered his liberty. Upon the death of king Edward, he fupported, with great firm- nefs, the title of the princefs Mary, notwithftand- ing the vigorous remonftrances of the duke of Northumberland, who wanted to engage him ia the lady Jane Grey's interefl. He figned, indeed, the will of king Edward's difpofmg of the crown to the lady Jane ; but this hp did only as a witnefs of his majeily's fubfcription, and not in the quali- ty of a privy-counfellor. Upon the acceflion of queen Mary, he received a general pardon, toge- ther with the offer of any poft under the govern- ment, provided he would embrace the Catholic re- ligion. This, however, was a condition, with which he did not think proper to comply ; and therefore enjoyed no poft during that whole reign. Upon the acceflion of queen Elizabeth, he was appointed fecretary of ftate, and was the firft per- fon fworn of her privy-council. He had a confi- derable fhare in the fettlement of religion ; in the regulation of the coin ; in the trial of the queen of Scots, and in all the capital tranfadtions of that L 4 long

24-8 A Description of

iong and a£tive reign. In 1571 he was created baron of Burleigh. The next year he was ad- vanced to the important office of lord high trea- furer of England ; and this he continued to enjoy till his death, which happened on the 4th day of Auguft, 1 598* Camden fays, " that he was one *' of thofe few, who lived and died with equal *' glory." " Such a man," adds he, " as while *' others regard with admiration, I, after the an- *f cient manner, am rather inclined to contem- *' plate with the facred applaufe of filent venera- " tion."

WooLSTROPE, a village about five miles to the fouth of Bourn, had the honour to produce that great philofopher Sir Ifaac Newton, the moft extraordinary genius that ever arofe for the orna- ment and inftru6lion of the human fpecies. He was defcended from an ancient family, and was born in this village on the 25th of December, 1642. He had his education at Grantham-fchool, and at Trinity college in Cambridge ; where he made fuch a furprizing progrefs in the ftudy of the mathematics, as almoft exceeds the bounds of cre- dibility. He comprehended Euclid's Elements at the firft glance of his eye, and advanced immedi- ately to the geometry of Des Carles and Kepler. He is even faid to have made his great difcoveries in geometry, and to have laid the foundation of his two moft famous works, the Principia and the Optics^ by the time he had attained to the twenty- fourth year of his age. It is commonly reported, that, as he fat alone in a garden, he fell into a fpeculation on the power of gravity, and imagin- ed, that, as their power is not fenfibly diminifh- ed at the remoteft diftance from the center of the earth, to which we can rife, it might probably extend much farther than was ufually thought ; and purfuing this notion, by comparing the pc**

rioda

LINCOLNSHIRE. 249

rods of the feveral planets with their diftances from the fun, he found, that, if any power, like gravity, held them in their courfes, its ftrength muft decreafe in the duplicate proportion of the encreafe of the diflance. This enquiry was dropt for the prefent, but refumed again, and gave rife to the celebrated treatife, which he wrote and publifhcd under the title of Mathe?naUcal Princi- ples of Natural Philofophy\ a work, v.'hich was looked upon as the production of a celeftial intel- ligence, rather than of a man. "Does Mr. New- *' ton eat, or drink, or fleep, like other men,'* faid the marquis de I'Hopital (one of the greateft mathematicians of the age) " I reprefent him to *' myfelf as a celeftial genius, entirely difengag- *' ed from matter." In 1688 he was chofen mem- ber of parliament for the univerfity of Cambridge, and he again reprefented the fame univerfity in 1701. In 1703 he was elecled prefident of the Royal Society, and continued in the chair twenty- three years, till the day of his death. In 1704 he publifhed his Optics^ which is a piece of philofo- phy fo new, that this fcience may be confidered as iblely his invention. In 1705 he was knighted by queen Anne, and, about two years after, he publifhed his Arithmetica Univcy falls. In 171 1 his Fluxions were publifned by William Jones, Efq; and next year feveral letters of his appeared in the CammcrciiiTn ppiflolicwn. In the reign of king George the Firft he became better known at court than he had ever been before. The princefs of Wales, afterwards queen confort of England, ufed frequently to confult him, and was often heard to declare, that fhe thought herfelf happy in coming into the world at a juncture, which put it in her power to enjoy the benefit of his converfa- tion. Nor was he lefs qualified for the a(Stive fcenes of life, than for the ftudy and cultivation* L *; of

250 A Description of

of the fclences. For, when the privileges of the univerfity of Cambridge were attacked by king Janies the Second, he was one of the moft zea- lous defenders of that learned body, and was ac- cordingly named one of their delegates to the High Court of CommiiHon. In 1696 he obtain- ed, by the intereft of Mr. Montague, then chan- cellor of the Exchequer, and afterwards earl of Hallifax, the office of warden of the mint ; and in this poft he did very confiderable fervice, at the time of recoining the fpecie of the kingdom. A- bout three years after he was appointed mailer of the mint ; and this place he held till his death, which happened March the 20th, 1726, in the eighty-fifth year of his age. His body, after ly- ing in ftate in the Jerufalem chamber, was con- veyed into Weftminfter- abbey, and interred on the left hand of the entrance into the choir, where a noble monument, with a proper infcription, v^^as ere£led to his memory. His Chronology ; his Oh- fervations upon the Prophecies of Daniel^ and the Jpocalypfe of St. John ; and fome other pieces, were pofthumous works.

Nine miles north of Bourn is Folkingham, or FoK INGHAM, a town feated on the fide of a hill, near the South Heath, twenty-four miles fouth of Lincoln, and a hundred and four north of London ; but is much decayed, and greatly in- ferior to what it was formerly. It however en- joys a wholefome air, and has feveral fine fprings r.ear it. It has a fmall market held on Thurfdays, and feven fairs, viz. on Afh-Wednefday, and Palm-Monday, for horfes and iheep j on May 12, for horfes, fheep, and tradefmen's goods ; on June 36, for horfes and horned cattle ; on July 3, for hemp, hardware, and befoms, or brooms ; and on November 10 and 22, for horfes, horned cattle, and tradefmen's goods.

At

LINCOLNSHIRE. 251

At Sempringham, near Folkingham, Sir Gil- bert, the fon of Sir Joceline de Sempringham, Knt. inftitated a new model of religious life, from him and from this place, called the Gilbertine or Sempringham order; and about the year ii39> built here a priory for his canons and nuns, dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary. This was the princi- pal houfe of the order, where their general chap- ters were held. At the diffolution it had a yearly revenue of 317 1. 4s. id.

About (evQn miles north of Folkingham is Sleaford, which is feated near the eaftern edge of the South Heath, and is called New Sleaford, to diftinguifh it from a neighbouring town called Old Sleaford. It is fituated eighteen miles fouth by eaft of Lincoln, and a hundred and ten north of London ; near the fource of a fmall but plea- fant river, which runs with fuch rapidity through the town, that it is never frozen in the fevered winter, and within the compafs of two miles, in- cluding the town, turns five corn mills, two full- ing mills, and one paper mill, and then falls into the Witham. This town is very populous, and of late much improved in its buildings. It has one parifh church, which, in the time of the civil wars, was robbed of its organ, and other orna- ments : the ftructure itfelf is of excellent work- manfhip, a hundred and feventy-two feet in length ; the weft end, which fronts the market-place, is feventy-two, and the eaft end thirty-two feet broad ; there are fix tuneable bells in the fteeple, with chimes, v/hich play at four, nine, and twelve o'clock. Here is a free-fchool, founded and handfomely endowed in 1603, by Robert Carr, Efq; the mafter of which muft be a bachelor of arts, at leaft, in Oxford or Cambridge: the fame gen- tleman alfo erected an hofpital for the maintenance of twelve poor men j for the management of

which

252 jf De S CRI PTION of

which he conftituted the vicar of the town, toge- ther with the redors of five places in the neigh- bourhood, for the time being, perpetual guardians. The market is on Mondays, for cattle, and all manner of provifions j it has five fairs, viz. on Plough-Monday, Eafter-Monday and Whitfon- Monday, for horfes, horned cattle and fheep ; en Auguft 12., for provifions, and on October 10,, for horned cattle and fhecp.

At RoxHAM, about three miles north of Slea- ford, is a fenny land, out of which are dug oak- trees, fome of which are thirty feet long, with the fap rotted away, but the heart entire ; it is, however, as black as jet, and yet is of ufe in building. Here the people a-lfo fometimes find acorns ^ and are fully perfuaded, that both they,. and the trees, have lain here ever fince the gene- ral deluge.. The fea is feventeen miles diftant,. and yet there are abundance of fhells found here.

Haverholm, fix miles north-eaft of Sleaford,. bad a monaftery of Gilbertine nuns, founded by Alexander, bifhop of Lincoln. It was valued at the fupprelTion at 71 1. a year, by Dugdale ; and at 88 1. by Speed.

At Kyme, a village about feven miles north- caft of Sleaford, was a priory of black canons,, built by Philip de Kyme, in the reign of king Henry the Second, and dedicated tp the Virgin Mary. It confifted of about eight religious, and at the uiilblution was polTeiTed of lands and rents,, worth 1 10 1. per annum.

We fhall now proceed fouth-eaft to Dunning- TON, which is fituated ten miles fouth-eaft of Sleaford, and nine miles to the northward of Spalding. It is a final I town-^ which has a mar- ket on Saturdays, famous for the great quantity ©f hemp and hemp-feed fold in it. It has alfo a port for barges,, by which goods are conveyed ta

LINCOLNSHIRE. 25^.

and from Bofton, and the Wafhcs. Here was born Thomas Cowley, Efq; v/ho dying about the year 1718, left all his eftate, which was very confider- able, to the poor of every parifh in which it was fituated, by which means 400 1. a year came to Dunnington, and was employed in- building and endowing a free-fchool. This town has four fairs, which are kept on May 26, for horfes, flax and hemp; on Auguft 17, for horfes only; on September 6, for cattle, flax and hemp ; and on October 17, for horfes, cattle, flax and hemp.

About feven miles to the eaftward of Dunning- ton is SouTHERTON, a little village, about three miles from the fea, where there are great banks itill remaining, which fhow that the fea came u^ as far as this place ; but it mud have been many ages ago, for Foss-Dyke, a village built on the fea-lhore, is alfo three miles from Southerton,. This laft village is fuppofed to be fo called, from the fofs way caft up by the Romans, which runs from Crowland, touches the borders of this pa=- rifh, and extends to Lincoln.

Boston, acording to Bede, was anciently call- ed Botolph's tov/n, from St. Botolph, a Saxon,, who founded a monaftery here, from which the town took its rife. It is fituated on the river- Witham, which is navigable from hence to Lin- coln, eleven miles north-eaft of Dunnington,. thirty-feven fouth-eaft of Lincoln, and a hundred and fourteen north of London. It is built on both fides of the above river, over which there is a wooden bridge, and has long been a flourifliing town. It is faid to have been lirft incorporated by king Henry the Eighth ; and queen Elizabeth gave the corporation a court of Admiralty, whofe jurifdiilion extended over all the neighbourino- coaft. This town is governed by a mayor, who is chief clerk of the market, and admiral of the

coaft^

254- ^ Description of

coaft, a recorder, a deputy recorder, twelvre af- dermen, a town-clerk, eighteen common-coun- cilmen, a judge, and marfhal of the admiralty, a coroner, two ferjeants at mace, and other officers. It has one church, and feveral meeting -houfes. This church is thought to be the largeft parochial church without crofs ifles in England, it being three hundred feet long, and a hundred feet wide,, within the walls. The cieling is of Englifh oak, fupported by twenty-four tall flender pillars. The tower, which was built in the year 1309, is two hundred and eighty-two feet high, and from thence rifes a beautiful o6tagon lantern, the top of which is three hundred feet from the ground, and ferves as a guide to mariners on their entering the dan- gerous channels, called Lynn-deeps, and Bofton- deeps, in the Wafhes, and is the admiration of travellers, it being feen at the diftance of forty miles round. In fhort, this church has three hun- dred and fixty-live fteps, fifty-two windows, and twelve pillars, anfwering to the days, weeks and months in the year. Here are two charity-fchools, and many handfome buildings. The town is fup- plied with frefti water by pipes from a pond, in a large common called the Weft-Fen, where a wa- ter-houfe and engine were ereded by a6t of par- liament, in the reign of queen Anne. Here is a commodious harbour, and many confiderable mer* chants, who carry on a brifk inland and foreign trade ; and many of the inhabitants apply them- felves to grazing of cattle, all the country, in the neighbourhood of the town, confifting of rich marfh lands, that feed vaft numbers of large fheep and oxen. It has two markets, which are held on Wednefdays and Saturdays ; and three fairs, viz. on May 4, chiefly for flieep ; on Auguft 11, call- ed the town fair, for cattle, and all forts of mer-

chandize^

{

LINCOLNSHIRE. 255

cbandize, which lafts nine days; and on Decem- ber II, for horfes.

This town appears to have been inhabited by the Romans ; for about the year 17 16, a Roman foundation was dug up a little beyond the fchool, and near it fome hewn ftones formed a cavity, in which was an urn with afhes ; a little pot with an ear, and an iron key of an odd figure. Some time before was dug up in a garden, an urn lined with lead, full of red earth and bones.

Before the tenth of king Edward the Firfl, here was an hofpital for poor men ; and before the year 1288, here was a houfe of Black friars. In the part of the town feated to the weft of the river, was a priory of Carmelite friars, founded

about the year 1300, by Sir Orreby, Knt.

Here was alfo a priory of Auftin friars, that ap- pears to have been founded by king Edward the Second, and likewife a houfe of Grey or Francif- can friars, founded, according to Leland, by the Efterling merchants 3 but, according to Stow, by John le Pytehede.

About the end of the reign of Henry the Firft, a fellow named Robert Chamberlain, at the head of fome defperate villains, difguifed like monks and priefts, while a tournament was proclaiming at Bofton fair, fet the tov/n on fire in feveral places, in order to plunder the inhabitants while they were removing their effeds, many of them being rich merchants. Chamberlain was however taken, and confefling the fa6l, was executed for it, but would not difcover his accomplices.

John Fox, the famous martyrologift, was born in 1517, at Bofton, and educated at Brazen-Nofe- coUege in Oxford. He difcovered in his younger years a genius for poetry, and wrote feveral La- tin comedies upon religious fubjeds ; but after- wards applied himfelf to the ftudy of divinity, to

which

256 j^ Description cf

which the bent of his mind more powerfully m^ clined him. Being expelled the college for herefy, he was obliged to fupport himfelf by becoming a tutor; and, in the reign of queen Mary, he even found it neceflary to withdraw out of the king- dom. Returning, however, to his native coun- try, upon the acceffion of queen Elizabeth, he obtained, by the intereft of Mr. fecretary Cecil,, the resSlory, or prebendfliip of Shipton, in the church of Salifbury ; and this he was permitted to hold, notwithftanding his non-conformity ; for he could never be perfuaded to fubfcribe the canons. He was, neverthelefs, according to the concur- ring teftimony of his contemporaries, a very quiet and peaceable man, and greatly difapproved of the violence ufed againft the Puritans. He died on the iSth of April, 1587, and was buried in the church of St. Giles's, Cripplegate, in- Lon- don. Befides his well-known work, entitled, ASfs and Monuments of the Churchy or Fox's Book of Martyr Sy he wrote Ad?nonitio Rejiituendis ; to- gether with fome fermons and other trades.

We fhall now pafs through the Fenny country,, to the north-eaft of the river Witham, and fhall proceed twelve miles north-weft from Bofton to Tattershall, which has a market on Tuef- day, and two fairs; the one held on the 14th of May, and the other on the 25th of September. Moft of the houfes are of brick, and here are the remains of a caftle, which formerly belonged to the noble families of Tatterfiiall, Dribey, Bar- nake, and Cromwell. Ralph, lord Cromwell ^ and lord high-treafurer of England, in the reign, of king Henry the Sixth, converted the parifli church into a collegiate, and endowed it with- lands lying under this caftle ; and from him the caftle came to the noble family of Clinton^ earls ©f Lincoln. The lower apartments and offices are-

entireljf

Vo/.K/>u.-^jj.

LINCOLNSHIRE. 257

entirely demolifhed ; but the tower, which is cileemed one of the fineft (Iruclures of the kind in England, is (landing. It is built of brick ; the walls in the thinneft part meafure fifteen feet thick, and it is about two hundred feet high. Of this ftruclure we have given an engraved view as it jiow appears.

• In this town was alfo a college for a mafler or warden, fix priefts, fix clerks, and as many cho- rifters ; and by the church yard was an alms-houfe for thirteen poor perfons, built and endov/ed by Sir Ralph Cromy>?ell, knight, in the reign of Henry the Seventh. It was dedicated to the Trinity, St. Mary, St. Peter, St. John the Evangelift, and St. John the Baptift, and its revenues were valued, in the 26th of king Henry the Eighth, at 348I. 5 s. I id. a year.

At KiRKSTEAD, a village {landing in a marfhy ground, near three miles to the north of Tatter- fliall, Hugh Brito, the fon of Eudo, lord of Tat- terfhall, founded in the year 1139 a cifi:ercian ab- bey, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the revenues of which were valued at the diflblution, at 286 1. 2S. yd a year.

At TuPHAM, or TuPHOLM, a village five miles north-weft of Kirkftead, was a priory found- ed by Robert de Nevil, who held feveral lands of the king in capite, from the conqueft, which he gave to the abbot of Tupham, at the firft foun- dation of this houfe, which had feveral other be- iiefa(5l:ors, and was valued at the fupprelTion at lool. a year, byDugdale i and at 1 19I. by Speed. There are large remains of it ftill (landing, from which it appears to have been a handfome ftruc- ture.

Near Tupham is Stakeswold, or Stick- wold, a village which had a convent of Cifter- cUn nuns, founded by the countds Lucy, relitl S of

258 A Description of

of Yvo de Tailb'ois, Roger de Romara, and"Ra- nulph, the flrft. earl of Chefter. It was built in the time of king Stephen ; was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and was under the diredion of a mafter. It had thirteen nuns, and was valued at the fuppreiTion at 114 1. a year, by Dugdale ; and, by Speed, at 163 1,

At Bardney, or Bradney, a village two miles north-weft of Tupham, was an abbey be- fore the year 697, to which Ethelred, king of Mercia, v/as a great benefador, if not the origi- nal founder ; but it was deftroyed by the Danes in 870, and continued in ruins above two hun- dred years, till it was rebuilt, and filled with Be- lied idine monks, by Remegius, bifhop of Lin- coln, or Giilebert de Gaunt, in the reign of Wil- liam the Conqueror. It was dedicated to St-? Pe* U^^ St. Paul, and St. Ofvvald, the king and mar- tyr, whofe relidts were firft enfhrined here. The revenues of this abbey were, at the diflblution, va- luted at 366 1. 6 s. id. a year ^ and at about 429 1. by Speed.

At Berlings, fix miles eaft of Lincoln, and five miles north-caft of Bardney, was an abbey of Premonftratenfian canons, founded by the honour- able Ralph de Haye, fecond fon of Robert, lord Haye of Halnack, and Richard, lord Haye, his brother, and dedicated to the BlefTed Virgin, in the reign of king Henry the Second. It was much enriched by the liberal grants of that noble lady, Alice Lucey, countefs of Lincoln, and afterwards by feveral other illuftrious families, and valued at the fuppreillon at 242 1. 5 s. iid. per annum. There is only a piece of an old wall, and a tower, now ftanding, the upper part of which is pretty entire, and very beautiful, and is fupported by large high pillars and arches. Of thefe ruins we have given an engraved view.

IWKpa.2o8.

LINCOLNSHIRE. 259

At BuLLiNGTON, 2L village eleven miles north- eaftof Lincoln, and five north of Bardney, Simon Fitz-William built a religious houfe, in the reign of king Stephen, as a convent for both • fexes, under the rule of St. Gilbert of Sempring- ham. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and its revenues, at the difTolution, v/ere valued at 158 1. by Dugdale; and at 157 1. by Speed.

Five miles north of Bardney, and eleven eaft by north of Lincoln, is Wragby, a village feated on a rivulet that falls into the Witham, and has an alms-houfe, built by Sir Edmund Turner, con- fifting of twelve apartments, v^ith two rooms each, deiigned for fix miniflers widows, and fix poor people. He alfo built a chapel adjoining to the hofpital, where divine fervice is performed every day. This village has two fairs, viz. one on the 23d of May, for iheep, and the other on the nth of October, for horned cattle.

Horn Castle is feated feven miles eaft of Tupham, and fixteen eaft of Lincoln, between the river Bane and a fmall rivulet ; fo that the town is almoft furrounded with water. It is large and well-built; and Dr. Stukeley obferves, that it was undoubtedly the Banovallum of Ra- vennas, and that the Romans were induced to fix a ftation here from the convenience of its fitua- tion, in being eafily rendered defenfible by a val- lum drawn acrofs, from one river to the other, whence it derived its Roman name. They after- wards built the ftrong ftone wall ftill vifible, and in fome places three or four yards high, and four yards thick, which at prefent enclofes the market- place, the church, and a good part of the town. It is a perfect parallelogram, compofed of two fquares, and is faid to have had a fquare tower at each of the angles. The gates were in the mid- «lle of three of the fides 3 and Dr. Stukeley fup-

pofes»

i6o v/ Description of

pofes, that there was a poflern into the meadows called the Holme. Many Roman coins have been found near the walls, and upon digging cellars, they frequently find human bones. The town was incorporated by queen Elizabeth, and its feal is a caftle and horn. Our author obferves, that in this town, the boys annually keep up the fefli- val of theFIoralia on May-Day, making a pro- ceffion to the May- pole- hill, with gads, as they call them, in their hands. Thefe are white wil- low wands, without the bark, encircled with cow- flips, a thyrfus of the Bacchanals : at night they have a bone-fire, and other merriment. The king had form.erly this whole town in his poffeffion.

Moor Tower, or Towner Moor, near Horncaftle, js a curious brick tower, probably very ancient, becaufe neither the tower itfclf, nor the moor on which it ftands, are known by any other names, than v/hat each gives the other. When or for what purpofe it was built is very un- certain ; but by the foundations yet vifible, it is^ evidently the remains of a large building, at the fouth-weft corner of which this tower ftands, and has a pair of winding fiiairs up to the top. Jt feems probably to have been a houfe of pleafure, with towers to overlook the moor in the time of fport, or the like. We have given a viev/ of the remains of this fi:ru6lure for the fatisfadion of the reader.

At Scrivelby-Hall near Horn Caflle, com- monly called Scrilby, is the feat of Lewis Dy- mock, Efq; champion of England, as lord of Scri- velby, an ancient barony, which he holds, as hereditarily devolved upon his anceftors, from the- noble family of Marmion ; by appearing on horfe- back, armed cap-a-pee, in Weftminfter-hall, to defend the rights of the fovereign, at the corona- tion of every king or queen of England.

BULLIK--

LINCOLNSHIRE. 261

BuLLiNBROKE, or BuLLiNBRooK, is fcated 3t the Tpring head of a fmall river that falls into the Witham, feven miles north-eaft of Tatterfhall, twelve nrlles north of Bofton, and a hundred north of London. It has been famous for its calUe built by William of Romara, earl of Lincoln, and for its being the birth-place of king Henry the Fourth, called Henry of Bullinbroke. It gives the title of vifcount to the noble family of St. John, and has a market on Thurfdays, but no fairs.

At Hagneby, near Bullinbroke, Hubert de Orreby, and Agnes his wife, erected and endowed a Premoni^ratenfian abbey, in the year ii75, Vv^hich wa2 dedicated to St. Thomas of Canterbu- ry, and had, a little before the fuppreffion, nine canons. Its revenues were then valued at 07 1. IIS. 4 d. a year.

At Reasbv, or Revescy, a village, which " {lands fouth-weft of Bullinbroke, William de Re- mora, earl of Lincoln, founded an abbey of Cif- tercian monks in the year 1142, and dedicated it to the Virgin Mary and St Laurence. At its fuppreflion it was endowed with 287 1. 2 s. 4 d. per annum.

About ten miles to the fouth by eaft of BuUing- broke is Waynfleet, which is feated on a ri- ver, not far from the fea ; and on the borders of the fenny country, called Holland. It is well built ; and in the church William Patten, bifhop of Winchefter, the founder of Magdalen college, Oxford, erecled a marble monument for his fa- ther, and in the town built a handfome chapel of brick, with a pretty good revenue, to pray for his and his anceftors fouls ; but this is now con- verted into a free-fchool. Waynfleet has a mar- ket on Saturdays, particularly for fifh \ and four fairs, viz. on the third Saturday in May, for all

forts

%^t yf Description of

forts of cattle ; on July 5, and Auguft 24, chief- ly for pleafure ; and on O(5lober 24, for rams and other flieep.

Dr. Stukeley obferves, that the fea has added much ground to this place fince the time of the Romans, when this town was called Vainona ; but that city ftood fomewhat higher up the river.

We now enter that valuable tract of land which extends on the eaft of the Woulds along the fea fhore, from the lad mentioned town to Barton.

About three miles to the northward of Wayn- fleet is Burgh, which is at prefent an inconfide- rable place, but it has a church dedicated t6 St. Peter, which is a large ftru^Sture, and has a cha- rity-fchool, and three fairs, viz, on May 12, for horfes, fheep, and horned-cattle ; on Auguft 16, which is a town-fair only, and on October 2, for cattle and all forts of clothing.

Dr. Stukeley thinks, that this was a Roman caftrum, to guard the fea-coads, probably againft the Saxon-rovers. It is feated on a piece of very high ground, partly natural, and partly, as the do£tor imgincs, raifed by labour, overlooking the wide extended marflies ; perhaps, in thofe times, covered with fait v/ater, at leait in fpring tides. There are tv/o artificial tumuli, one very high, called Cock-hill. In the church-yard of St. Mary's, now demolifhed, Roman coins, have been found : among thefe, the dodfor faw a very fair and large one of Antoninus Pius, and in the yards and gar- dens about the town, they frequently dig up bo- dies.

Alford is a fmall obfcure town, near the foot of the Woulds, and about fix miles from the fea. The town is compact and well built, feated on a fmail brook that runs thro' a part of it, and has a market on Tuefdays, well ferved with provifions ; and two fairs, held on Whitfun-Tuefday, and

the-

LINCOLNSHIRE. 263

the 8th of November, for horned-cattle and (heep.

At Maltby, three miles north of Alford, was a preceptory of the Templars, and afterwards of the Hofpitallers, originally founded by Randall, earl of Chefter.

At Markby, a village two miles north-eafl of Alford, was a priory of Black canons, built before the fifth year of the reign of king John, by Ralph Fitz Gilbert. It was dedicated to St. Peter, and valued at the fuppreflion at 130 1. 13 s. a year.

Greenfield is a village about two miles and a half north-weft of Alford, where was an abbey of Ciftercian nuns, dedicated to St. Mary, which was founded and endowed by Eudo de Greinfby, and Ralph de Abi, his fon, before the year 1153, and had about the time of the fuppreflion ten nuns, when its revenue was valued at 63 1, a year by Dugdale ; but at 80 1. by Speed.

Eleven miles to the fouth-weft of Alford is Louth, which is feated at the foot of the Woulds, and is faid to have received its name from a fmall river called the Lud, on which it is fituated, about twenty-four miles weft- north -weft of Lincoln, and a hundred and thirty-five north of London, It is a pretty large, well built, and populous town, incorporated and governed by a warden and feveral afliftants. It has a large church, with a fine fteeple, which fome think as high as Gainf- borough fpire. Here is alfo a free-fchool, founded by king Edward the Sixth, and a charity-fchool for forty children. It has tv/o markets, held on Wednefdays and Saturdays ; but that on Wednef- days is the principal, and is conliderable for cat- tle, horfes, hogs, corn, and all forts of provi- fions ; befides which it has three fairs, viz. on May 24, and Auguit 16, for fheep> and on De- cember 3, for horfes,

Louth-

«64 A Description of

Louth-Park abbey, was founded by Alexander^ bifliop of Lincoln, and lord chancellor of Eng- land, about the year 1139, for the Benedidine convent of Haverholm ; and thofe monks remov- ed hither from their former cell, fubjedl to the abbey of Haverholm. This abbey was in a fine fituation, that commanded a view of the town of Louth, and had an annual revenue'of about 150 1.

Alvingham, a village about two miles north- eaft of Louth, had, in the reign of king Stephen, a priory of Gilbertine canons and nuns, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and St. Adelwold, which was valued at the fuppreflion at 128 1. 14s. 2d. a year.

Legburn, a village to the fouth-eafi: of Louth, had an abbey of Ciftercian nuns, founded by Ro- bert Fitz-Gilbert of Legburn, before the firft "vear of king John. It had feveral other donations, which were confirmed by the above prince, and was valued at 38 1. a year by Dugdale j and at 57 L by Speed.

Saltfleet is a little market town, feated on the German ocean, about feven miles to the north- eaft of Ivouth, and has a fmall harbour. At this town the reverend Mr. John Watfon, who died m 1693, aged a hundred and two, was minifter feventy-four years, in which time he buried three fucceliive generations in his parlfh, except three or four perfons.

About thirteen miles north-weft of Saltfleet is Grimsby, which is feated within half a mile of the fea, thirty-fix miles to the north-eaft of Lin- coln, and a hundred and fifty-eight north by eaft of I^ondon. In point of antiquity, it is faid to be the firft, or at leaft the fecond corporation-town in England. It fends two members to parliament, and is governed by a mayor, a high-fteward, a re- corder, twelve aldermen, twelve common-counil-

men.

LINCOLNSHIRE. 265

men, two coroners, a town-clerk, and three fer- jeants at mace. The mayor holds a court here every Tuefday, and the bailiffs every Friday. Here are feveral ftreets of good houfes. It wa^ former- ly a very large town, and had two parifh churches, only one of which remains; but for largenefs, it is equal to moft of the cathedrals in England. It had lilcewife a caftle, and a confiderable trade ; the harbour being then very commodious ; but it has been long choaked up, and yet the road be- fore it is a good ftation for (hips, that wait for a wind to get to fea. The inhabitants trade in coals and fait by means of the river Humber. The market is held on Wednefdays, and there are two fairs, the firft on June 17, and the other on Sep- tember 15, for horfes.

In this town was aBenedi6Line nunnery, found- ed about the year 1185, and dedicated to St. Leo- nard, in which, about the time of the fupprellion, were a priorefs, and feven or eight nuns, and yet its revenue, according to Dugdale, amounted on- ly to 10 1. a year; and, according to Speed, ta 12 1. In this town was alfo a houfe of AuiHn fri- ars, about the year 1304 ; and likewife a convent of Francifcan, or grey friars, founded in the be- ginning of the reign of king Edv/ard the Second, if not before.

At Wellow, near Grimfby, Henry the Firfi: built and endowed an, abbey of black canons, de- dicated to St. Auguftine, which was valued at the difToIution at 95 1. 6 s. a year.

At CoTHAM, feven miles north-weft of Grimf- by, Alan iVluncels, or Monceaux, founded a Cif- tercian monaftery, about the end of the reign of king Henry the Firft, and dedicated it to the Vir- gin Mary, in which, at the difToIution, were a priorefs, and twelve nuns, whofe revenues were valued at 40 1. a year.

Vol. V. M At

266 A Description of

At Newsham abbey, a little to the north-eaft of Cotham, was the firft monaftery of the Pre- monftratenfian order in England, which was creeled by Peter de Goufla, or Goufel, about the year 1 146, and dedicated to St. Mary and St. Mar- tin. Here were maintained, juft before the diflb- Jution, an abbot and eleven canons, whofe reve- nues were valued at 99 1. 2 s. 10 d.

From Newfham aroad extends nine miles north by v/eft to Barton, which is fituated by the northern extremity of the Woulds, near the mouth of the Humber, thirty-five north of Lin- coln, and a hundred and fixty-three from London, Here is a confiderable ferry for palling the Hum- ber, which is fix miles broad, into Yorkfliire. 7'his ferry is of great advantage to the town, which is pretty well built, and has a plentiful market on Mondays, with a fair on Trinity-Thurf- day, for cattle.

At Thornton, a village three miles fouth-eaft of Barton, William le Crofs, earl of Albemarle, and lord of Holdernefs, founded in 1139 a mo- naftery of Black canons, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, which, at the difiblution, was valued at 594 1. 17 s. 10 d. a year. It is now called Thorn- ton college, a very beautiful part of which is ftili left ftanding; it is adorned with figures in relievo, and is now inhabited.

We (hall now proceed through the fens, on the fides of the river Ankham, between the South- Heath, and the Woulds.

Nine miles fouth-eaft of Barton is Glanford Bridge, a pretty good town, feated on the eaft fide of the river Ankham, over which it has a bridge, from which it obtained its name, twenty-four miUis north of Lincoln, and a hundred and fifty- three n'jrth of London. It has a good market on 'i'huri'daysj but "cvo fairs. Here was an ancient

hofpital.

LINCOLNSHIRE. 267

bofpltal, founded in the reign of king John, by Adam Paynell, fubordinate to Selby abbey in Yorklhire, one of the monks of which abbey was mafter.

At WiNGALL, feven miles fouth of Glanford bridge, was an alien priory, dedicated to St. John. It was a cell to the abbey of Sees in Normandy, to which it belonged in the beginning of the reign of Henry the Third.

RucKHOLM, an ifland in the river Ankham, to the fouth of Glanford bridge, was before the year 1 173, given by king Henry the Second, and the canons of Sempringhani, to found a priory of their order, which was called Newftede. It was dedi- cated to the Trinity, and endowed at the diffolu- tionwith381. 13 s. 56. a year.

At Omby, which is fituated near the foot of tnG North-Heath, eight miles to the northward of Lincoln, are fome fields, adjoining to a great road, that extends from Stamford to Hull in York- fiiire ; filver and brafs coins have been plowed up, which had a view of the city of Rome on one fide, with the infcription vrbs roma, and on the reverfe, pax et tranqjillitas.

Nine miles eaft byj north of Omby is Mar- ket Rasen, which is feated at the foot of the Woulds, fifteen miles to the north-eaft of Lin- coln, and is thus called todiflinguifh it from Eaft, Weft, and Middle Rafen, all feated at a fmali dif- tance from each other ; and from its crowded mar- ket on Tuefdays. It has a fair on the 6th o{ Oc- tober, for horned cattle.

We fhall nov/ proceed to the north-v/eft, and take a view of the towns from north to fouth, in the moorifli tract on the weft fide of the county, feated near the banks of the Trent.

On the northern verge of Lincolnfhire is Win-

TERiNGHAM, a village a little to the north of

M 2 Burtoa,

268 yf Description of

Burton, near which flood a Roman town, large foundations of which have been plowed up. Dr. Stukeley is of opinion, that the name of this old Roman ftation was Abontrus. It is feated in a peninfula, between the Humber and the Ankham, and has a fine fpring on the eaft fide, with ftone- work left round it. It has no market, but has a fair on the 14th of July, for horned cattle, and pedlars goods.

Burton, alfo called Burton Strather, is fituated on the eaft fide ot the Trent, near its in- flux into the Humber, at the foot of the North Heath, twenty-eight miles to the north of Lin- coln. The houfes are pleafantly intermixed with trees, and the inhabitants have feveral mills on the Trent. It has two churches, and it is remarka- ble, that one of them is fituated at the bottom of a rock, fo that a perfon might almoft leap down from the precipice to the top of the fteeple. It bus a market on Mondays.

The Ifle of Axholm, is feated in the north- weft part of the county, with its northern extre- mity, a little to the weft of Burton. It is made an illand by the rivers Trent, Dun, Idle, and others, and is about ten miles in length from north to fouth, but fcarcely half fo much in breadth. The flat and lower part towards the rivers is moorifh ground, and yields a fweet ftirub, to which the inhabitants give the name of gall. Like- wife in the moorifti parts, very large fir-trees have been frequently dug up. The middle part is a rifing ground, in which alabafter is found.

Croul, or Crowle, a village in this ifland, fix miles fouth-weft of Burton, has two fairs, one held on the laft Monday in May, and the other on the 22d of November.

At Epworth, a village in this ifland, was a Carthufian monaftery, founded by Thomas, earl

of

LINCOLNSHIRE. 269

of Nottingham, marfhal of England, who alfo endowed it. In the year 1398, pope Boniface the Ninth crranted an induli^ence to all fuch as Ihouid vifit it. It was valued at the fuppreffion at: 290 I. a year. This village has a fair on the 9th of September, for cattle, hemp and flax.

At Hyrst, a village alfo in the Ifle of Axholm, was a priory of canons regular, of the order of St. Auguftine, founded by Nigcllus de Albani, who gave his habitation to the monks ; but the reve- nues were valued at the fupprefiion at only 61. a year.

Gain^seorough, or Ganeseorough, is com- modiouily feated on the river Trent, and on the borders of Nottinghamfhire, eighteen miles to the northward of Burton, fourteen to the north- weft of Lincoln, and a hundred and forty-two north by weft of London. It is a v/ell built, flourifning tov/n, and had a church, which, being in a rui- nous condition, was pulled down in the year 1735, ^"^ rebuilt by act of parliament. Here are alfo feveral meeting-houfes of diflenters, and a fine market-place. The town has a conudera- ble trade, by means of the Trent, which, though it is near forty miles by water from the Humber, brings up {hips of confiderable burthen with the tide. The North Marfh, in the neighbourhood of the town, is ufed for horfe-races. Gainfborough gives the title of earl to the noble family of Noel. It has a plentiful market on Tuefdays, and two fairs, one on Eafter-Tuefday, and the other oa the 20th of Offtober, for all ibrts of cattle and Ihop goods. This town is very ancient, it beino^ the harbour of the Danifh fhips, which came up the Trent, far into the country j and here Swe- no, the Danifh tyrant, after he had committed great ravages, was ftabbed by an unknown hand. M 3 la

270 A Description rf

In the fouth part of the town was an old chapel, in which many Danes are faid to have been in- terred.

Simon Patrick, a learned writer, and venerable prelate of the feventeenth century, was born Sep- tember the 8th, 1626, at Gainfborough, and edu- cated firft at the fchool of his native place, and afterwards at Queen's college in Cambridge. Af- ter being fome time chaplain to Sir Walter St. John, of Batterfea in Surry, and vicar of that pa- rifh, he was prefented, in 1662, to the rcdory of St. Paul's, Covent-Garden, in London, and in 1679, was advanced to the deanery of Peterbo- rough. During the reign of king James the Se- cond, he exerted himfeUllrenuoully in fupport of the Proteftant religion ; and as a reward of his fervices, he was immediately after the revolution prom.oted to the biiliopric of Chichefter, and in 1691 tranflated to that of Ely, in the room of the deprived bifhop Turner. He died at Ely, May the 31ft, 1707, in the eighty-firfl year of his age. His works are numerous and well known. His Paraphrafes and Commentaries upon the Holy Scriptures are greatly efteemed.

At Marton, near Gainfborough, are the re- mains of a Roman highway, leading from Don- cafter in Yorkfliire to Lincoln ; and about a quar- ter of a mile from the town, are two or three confiderable pieces of Roman pavement.

On fome hills between Gainfborough and Lea, a neighbouring village, many Roman coins, and pieces of Roman urns, have been dug up 5 and one of thefe eminences, called Caftle-hill, is fur- rounded with intrenchments faid to inclofe above" a hundred acres.

At a place formerly called Heyningf.s, or He- VENYNGE, at two niiles diftance from Gainfbo- rough,

Vol. V.paiji.

LINCOLNSHIRE. 271

rough, was a Ciftercian nunnery, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, founded about the year 1180, by Robert Evermue. It had a priorefs and twelve nuns, with a yearly revenue of 4.9 1. 5s. 2d.

Eight miles fouth-weft of Gainfborough is Ca- MERiNGHAM, which is feated at the foot of the North Heath, about (even miles to the northward of Lincoln, where was an alien priory, a cell to the Premonftratenfian abbey of Blanch-Land in Normandy, the manor here being given by the founders Richard de Haya, and Matilda his wife, to that abbey, in the reign of Henry the Second ; but in the reign of king Kichard the Second, Eli- zabeth, the widow of Sir Nicholas Audler, pur- chafed this priory, and fettled it on the abbey of Hilton in Staffordfhire.

About iive miles to the fouth-weft of Camer- ingham, and nine miles north-weft of London, is 'I'oRKSEY, a village which was formerly a con- fiderable place, and enjoyed many privileges that were granted on condition that the inhabitants {hould, whenever the king's ambailadors came that way, carry them down the Trent, in their own barges, into the Humber, and afterwards condu6l them as far as York. This place is, hov/ever, at prefent very fmall, but has a fair oa Whitfun-Monday, for merchandize.

On the eaft fide of this town was a convent of nuns, called the Houfe at the Fosse extra Tor- SEY, for canonefTes, founded by king John. Its ruins, now called Torkley Hall, ftand on the banks of the river Trent, where the ancient FolTe Dyke was cut between the river Withain and the Trent, for the fervice of the city of Lin- coln. It feems to have been a very regular ftruc- ture, and the walls, of which we have given a view, are ftill lofty. It was valued at the fuppreffion at 19 I. a year, by Dugdale; and at 27 1, by Speed. M 4 About

a;^ w^ Description of

About three miles north-eaft of Torkley is Stow, where is fuppofed to have been the an- cient city, called Sidnacefter, once the feat of the bijQiops of this county ; it was famous even before Lincoln was a bifhop's fee ; nay, fome maintain, that this was the mother church to Lincoln. The church is a very large building in the form of a crofs, and the fleeple, though now large, has been m.uch higher than it is at prefent. This vil- lage has a fair on the icth of Odlober, for horfcs, horned cattle and fheep.

We now proceed fouthward, through the low lands on the weft fide of the South Heath, from Lincoln to Grantham.

At Eagle, a village fix miles fouth-weft of Lincoln, and on the borders of Nottinghamfliire, was a commandery of the knights Templars, who enjoyed the manor of this place by a grant from king Stephen. It afterwards came to the knights Hofpitailers, and at their difiblution, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, was valued at 124I. 2s. per annum.

Seven miles fouth-eaft of Eagle, and eight miles fouth of Lincoln, is Somerton, which is feated at the foot of the South Heath, and had a caftle, built by Anthony Beck, bifhop of Durham, and by him given to Edward the Firft, who beftowed it on Henry de Bellomonte, from whom it defcended to the family of the Beau- monts. Some affirm, that this caftle was in be- ing in the reign of Ethelbald, king of the Mer- cians, about the year 734, and that it was only rebuilt by the above bifliop in the year 1305. It is now in ruins, but at one end there are high walls ftill flanding, and part of a round tower, of which we have given an engraved view.

Grantham is feated on the river Witham, twenty-two miles to the fouth of Lincoln, in the

road

tZz 2>c/-i;.ii

LINCOLNSHIRE. 273

road from London to York, twenty-one miles north by weft of Stamford, fourteen fouth of Newark, and a hundred and four north by weft ■of London. It is a rich, neat and populous town, and being much frequented, has feveral good inns. The church is a lofty ftru<5lure, with one of thehigheft ftone fpires in England, it be- ing eighty-two yards high ; but is fo conftruded, that on which fide foever it is viewed, it appears to incline from the perpendicular. The church is • a handfome edifice, and the organ, which is fine- ly ornamented, has a double front. The char- nel-houfe belonging to this church is a large hand- fome building, in which may be feen near one thoufand five hundred fkulls bleached white by the air, piled up, with great order, in rows one above another. Here are likewife feveral meeting- houfes of diflenters, and a good free-fchool, built and endowed by Dr. Richard Fox, biihop of Win- chefter, who was a native of this place, befidcs two charity-fchools ; and, about the year 1290, here was built a houfe of Francifcan, or grey friars. On a neighbouring courfe are horfe-races. The town is governed by an ancient corporation, con- fifting of an alderman, a recorder, twelve com- mon burgefies, a coroner, an efcheator, twelve fecond twelve men, who are of the common- council, and tv/elve conftables to attend on the court. The alderman and burgefies have all power to act as juftices of the peace for the corpo- ration, and foake of Grantham. The members to ferve in parliament are elecSled by the freemen of the corporation. There is a market on Satur- days, and five fairs; on the fifth Monday in Lent, for horned cattle, horfes and flieep ; on Holy- I'hurfday, for fheep and horfes -, on July 10, Odober 26, and December 17, for horned cattle and horfes.

M 5 Henry

274 -^ Description of

Henry More, an eminent divine and platcnic philolbpher of the feventeenth century, was borri October the 12th, 1614, at Grantham^ and edu- cated firft at Eton fchool, and afterwards at Chrift's college in Cambridge, of which he be- came a fellow. Being naturally of a grave and contemplative turn of mind, he confined himfelf entirely to a college life ; and fludioufly avoided every preferment in the church, that might oblige liim to quit his beloved retirement, Bifhopricks were offered him both in England and Ireland ; but he could not, by any means, be perfuatled to accept them ; fo that, with great truth he might fay, what is commonly faid by other clergymen cnly for form's fake. Nolo -epifcopari : his friends, indeed, without difcovering their purpofe, once drew him to Whitehall, in order to kifs his ma- jefty's hand for an Englifh bifhopric ; but he had no fooner learned their defign, than he fuddenly flopt fhort, and could not be prevailed on to .proceed a ftep farther. He accepted, however, of a prebendfhip in the church of Gloucefter ; but this he did only with a view of conferring it upon Dr. Edward Fowler, who accordingly, by his in*- tereft, foon after obtained it. He was likewife a member of the Royal Society, both before and after its eftabliftiment by the royal charter ; and contributed, by his writings, to raife the charac- ter of that learned body. He feems, from his works, to have been a man of a ftrong fancy, and a pious difpofition, but fomewhat tindured with enthufiafm. There Was a fublimity in his con*- ceptions, which foared above the reach of ordina- ry capacities. Bifhop Burnet fays, that he was a fnicere Chriftian philofopher, who fludied to efta- blilli men in the great principles of religion againll Atheifm, which was then be-ginning to gain ground ; and Mr. Hobbes was wont to declare,

*' that.

LINCOLNSHIRE. 275

*' that, if his own philofophy was not true, there <' was none that he fhould fooner like than Dr. *' More's of Cambridge." Though naturally of a ferious, and even of a melancholy temper, he could yet be merry in his hours of relaxation ; for being feized with a fwoon, a little before his laft illnefs, he faid, upon coming to himfelf, that his diftemper was wind, but he hoped it would not carry him away in a ftorm. He died September 1, 1687, in the feventy-third year of his age. He wrote a treatife of the Immortality of the Soul J ConjeSiura Cabalijiica ; Enchiridion Ethi- cum-y the Myftery of Godlinefs ; the Myilery of Iniquity j Philofophical Colledions, and other pieces.

About the year 1164, king Henry the Second gave the manor of Haugh, near Grantham, to the abbey of St. Mary de Voto, at Cherburgh in Normandy, founded by the emprefs Maud, his mother, and himfelf; hence there was fettled here an alien priory of Auflin canons, fubordinate to that foreign abbey.

At Herlaxtok, a fmall village a little to the weft of Grantham, was plowed up in the fixteenth century a brazen veiTel, in which was found an helmet of gold ftudded with jewels, which was prefented to Catharine of Spain, queen dowager to king Henry the Eighth. In the fame veiid were alfo fome filver beads, and a parcel of wri- tings, but thefe being rotten could not be read.

Paunton^ is a village about three miles fouth by eaft of Grantham, at the foot of the South Heath, and is famous for its Roman antiquities, particularly for the chequered pavements dug up there. Some affirm, that there was a bridge at this place, over the river Witham ; on which ac- count they would have it to be the Ad Pontem of Antoninus; but HorOey would have that ftation

to

276 A Description 0}

to be at Southwell in Nottinghamfhire, near the liver Trent, over which he imagines there may have been a bridge.

Belvoir Caftle, commonly called Bever Caftle, the feat of the duke of Rutland, three miles to the weft of Herlaxton, has been already taken notice of in Leiceflerfhire, where it certain- ly ftands, but the Benedidline priory near it was in this county ; and was begun by Robert dc Bel- videir, or de Toreneio, lord of Belvoir Caftle, in the reign of William the Conqueror, but not finiftied. It was, however, afterwards compleat- ed, and made a cell to the abbey of St. Albans. It had benefa6tions from feveral perfons, and was valued atthe fuppreflion at 105 1. a year by Dug- dale, but at 130 1. by Speed.

•We ftiall now begin the South Heath, and, proceeding from the end next Stamford, fhall take a view of the principal places on this eminence from fouth to north.

BiTHAM, a village feated on the South Heath, eight miles from Stamford, had a convent of Cif- tercian monks, who, in the year 1147, were brought thither from Fountain abbey in York- Ihire, by William earl of Albemarle 5 but thefe monks foon removed to a more pleafant place^ called Vaudy abbey, a little to the north-eaft of Witham. It was given them by Jeff"ry de Bra- checourt, or his lord, Gilbert de Gaunt, earl of Lincoln ; and about the time of the fuppreffioa had an abbot and thirteen monks, whofe annual revenues were valued at 124I. 5 s. 11 d.

At Grimsthorp, three miles north-eaft of Bitham, is a pleafant feat of the duke of Ancaf- ter's. The houfe is handfome and commodious, the park large and beautiful ; and here is a fine lav/n^ on which is an annual horfe-race. In the-

^ middle

LINCOLNSHIRE. 277

middle of this park flood Vaudy abbey, fome ru- ins of which are flill to be feen.

Three miles to the north-weft of Grimfthorp Is Corby, a fmall town, twenty-eight miles to the fouth of Lincoln, and nineteen to the north of London. There is here a fchool, eredled and en- dowed for the fons of deceafed clergymen. The town has an almoft negleded market on Thurf- days ; and two fairs, held on the 26th of Auguft:, and the Monday before October 10,, for horfes and horned cattle.

Ancaster is feated eleven miles to the north of Corby, and fixteen fouth of Lincoln, and is a place of great antiquity. It is taken by fome to be the Crococolane of Antoninus ; but Horf- ley affirms, that this place was called Caufennae ;. though Dr. Stukeley is pofitive, that Great Paun- ton muft have been the Caufennae of the Romans, But be this as it will, it is certain, that it has been a very ftrong city, intrenched and walled round, as ftill plainly appears to thofe who are even but little verfed in thofe enquiries. Dr. Stukeley obferves, that the bowling-green, behind the Red Lion inn, is made in the ditch, and that when they were levelling the bank, they came to the old foundation. At that end of the town is Caftle-clofe, which is full of foundations, every where appearing above ground, and encompafled by the ditch and rampart. Prodigious quantities of Roman coins have been found here, and many people have traded in them for feveral years. They are alfo found in great plenty upon all the hills round the town, efpecially to the fouthward ; and after a fhower of rain, the fchool-boys and (hepherds have been accuftomed to look for them on the declivities of the hills, and frequently with fuccefs. Dr. Stukeley obferves, that he faw an Antoninus Pius of bafe filver, found the morning

he

278 A Description of

he was there, likewife many coins of Faufllna, Verus, Commodus, Gallienus, Salonina, Julia Maefa, Conftantius Chlorus, Helena, Maximi- ana Theodora, Conftantine the Great, Mag- jientius, Conftans, Vidorinus, &c.

The town confifts of one ftreet, running north and fouth along the road, and there is a fpring at both ends of it, which was probably the reafon of the town's being built in this place, for no more water is to be met with in the Roman road from hence to Lincoln. There is a road on the weft fide of the town, which was for the conve- nience of thofe that travelled when the gates were fiiut. There are quarries about the town, and the rocks lie very near the furface of the ground, Ancafter had a market, which is now difufed, as well as its fairs : but it gives the title of duke to the noble family of Bertie.

A mile and a half to the weft, in the village of HuNNiNGTON, which is feated upon a hill that affords a delightful profped, both towards the fea coaft, and into Nottinghamfhire ; and is fa- mous for its having been a caftrum exploratorum, or fummer camp of the Romans. This work is of a fquare form, and double trenched, but of no great extent, and the entrance feems to have been on the eaft fide. \w 169 1 as many Roman coins were found In an earthen pot as would fill a peck ; and fome years ago were plowed up in this place bits of fpears, bridles, and fwords, with two urns full of coins, among which was a large brafs one of Agrippa, and Julia, daughter of Auguftus, There is a charity fettled upon ten poor people of Hunnington and Cathorp, of 20 !• a year, and each of them has 40 s. paid quar- terly.

Ail the way from this road, upon Lancafter Heathj you have a viev/ of the fea, and the tow- ering

lW.l''pa.2/p.

LINCOLNSHIRE. 279

ering height of Bofton fteeple. At Temple Bruer is a crofs upon a ftone, cut through in the Ihape of that borne by the knights Templars, and is fuppofed to be a boundary of their demefne. Bruer, in this place, fignifies a heath, it being feated near the middle of the Great Heath, on the fouth fide of Lincoln ; and here was a com- mandery of the knights Templars, founded, or early endowed by the lady Matilda de Cauz, daughter of the heirefs of the lord Robert de Cauz, and was afterwards greatly enriched by many kings and noblemen. This church was built about the reign of king Henry the Third, in imitation of the temple near the holy fepulchre in Jerufalem ; and of the remains of this ftruc- ture, we have given a view for the fatisfa(Slion of the curious reader.

Eleven miles north by eaft of Temple Bruer is NocTON, a village feven miles fouth-eaft of Lin- coln, where wais a priory of canons regular of the order of St. Auguftine, founded by Robert de Arecy, or Arcy, and dedicated to St. Mary Alagda- len. It had five canons about the time of the dif- folution, when its revenues were valued by Dug- 'dale at 44 1. a year ; and by Speed at 53 1.

The fouthefn end of this South Heath declines into a valley, to admit the pafTage of the river Witham to the fouth-eaft part of the county ; and here is feated the city of Lincoln, which rifes on the north, up the fide of a fteep hill, termed the North Heath, and which extends almoft to the Humber. The city of Lincoln was called by the ancient Britons Lindcoit, by Ptolemy and Antoni- nus Lindum, by the Saxons Lyndo-Collyne, and Lyndo-Cyilanceafter, and by the Normans Ni- chol : from thefe names, which are fuppofed to have originally fignified a colonv, or town, feated on a hill, the prefent name is certainly derived.

It

28o A Description of

It is fituated thlrty-feven miles weft- north -weft of Bofton, in the fame county, thirty-two miles north-eaft of Nottingham, fifty- two north by weft: of Peterborough, and a hundred and twenty-eight north of London. To the weftward of the city, the river Witham forms a great body of water, called Swan-Pool, from the multitude of fwans upon it ; and all round, the ground is marftiy, and called Carham, from Car, a {tn. Here fome fuppofe the Britifii city ftood in the early ages.

The Roman city was orignally built in the forin of a large fquare j the fouthern wall ftood upoa the precipice or ridge of the heath, where it want- ed no other fortification. Round the other three fides was a deep trench which ftill remains, except on the fouth-eaft angle. This city was then divi- ded into four equal parts by two crofs ftreets, that ran quite through upon the cardinal points. The two fouthern quarters were taken up, one by the caftle, and the other by the church afterwards built by Remigius. But when Alexander the bi- ftiop proje6led a ftru£lure of much larger dimen- fions, the facred enclofure was carried beyond the caftern bounds of the city, and a new wall built farther that way, as it now is with towers and bat- tlements. One of the Roman gates, now called Newport gate, is ftill entire, and is the nobleft piece of antiquity of the kind in Britain. Itcon- fifts of a femicircular arch of ftone, fixteen fees in diameter, not cemented, but only corme6lcd by the wedge- like form of the ftones. On both fides, towards the upper part, are laid horizontal ftones of great dimenfions, fome ten or twelve feet long, judicLoufty adapted to take oit the fide pref- fure. This arch arofe from an impoft of large- mouldings, fome parts of which are ftill difcovera^ ble \ efpecially on the left fide.

Clofe

Vo/.rpa.2d/.

LINCOLNSHIRE. aSi

Clofe to this gate is another curious piece of Roman workmanfhip, called the Mint-wall, which confifts of alternate layers of brick and ftone, and is ftill fixteen feet high, and forty long. Various fragments of the old Roman wall are to be {cen round the city. Dr. Stukeley is of opinion, that as Lindum was feated on a naviga- ble river, and was the chief thoroughfare to the north, it foon encreafed to that degree, that the Romans were obliged to add another cit}', equal in fize to the former ; and that afterwards, two orher great additions were made to the length of the city, one of which, now called Newport, or the new city, is five hundred paces long, and fup- pofed to have been built in the reign of the Saxon kings. It lies on both fides the Ermin ftreet, and was fenced with a wall and a ditch, hewn out of the rock. At the two farther corners were round towers and a gate, the foundations of which jftili remain.

There was a caftle, with many forts built here by the Romans, and repaired by the Saxons and Normans, in fucceeding ages, as they flood in need, from the various fieges they fuftained. The callle was, in particular, repaired by king Wil- liam the Firrt, after his conqueft over king Ha- rold. Its ruins fliew that it was a magnificent work, and of thefe we have given the reader a view.

John of Gaunt*s palace, below the hill, was built by John of Gaunt, duke of Lancafter, and earl of Lincoln, Leicefter, and Derby, in the reign of Richard the Third. The above caftle was his, but being much expofed to cold winds, and being appropriated to the public fervice, and frequently garrifoned, that prince, probably, built this place below the hill for warmth, and for thcj ufc of his family and domcdics, while he refideJ

in

2S2 A Description of

in this ancient city, Vv'here, and at Bullingbroke, a caftle of his highnefs's in this county, he fpent great part of his latter days j he having married the lady Catharine Swinford, the widow of a Lin- colnfliire knight.

In the reign of Edward the Confeflbr, the city is faid to have had one thoufand and feventy houfes, and in the time of the Normans, was one of the moft populous cities in England, and a mart for goods of every kind, which gave occa- fion to the following prophecy, as they call it,

Lincoln was, London is, and York fhall be 7^he faireft city of the three.

This they fuppofe to have been fulfilled after the fire of London in 1666.

King Edward the Third made it a ftaple for wool, leather, led, and other commodities. But afterwards it fufFered many calamities. It was once burnt 5 once befieged by king Stephen, who was here defeated and taken prifoner, and once taken by Henry the Third from his rebellious barons. It is faid to have had fifty churches, which in the reign of Edward the Sixth, were re- duced, by act of paliament, to eighteen, only thirteen of which are now remaining, and thofe are extremely mean ; but they have a (lately Go- thic cathedral, and feveral meeting-houfes ofdif- fenters. This cathedral, or minfter, is the chief ornament of the city j it is one of the largeft in England, and the ground it (lands upon fo high, that it may be feen over five or fix counties, fifty miles to the north, and thirty to the fouth ; but though it is inferior in beauty to feveral others in England, it was fo admired by the monks, that they imgined the Devil could never look at it with- out frowns of malevolence j and hence arofe the proverb, frequently applied to malicious and en- vious

LINCOLNSHIRE. 2S3

vious perfons ; *' He looks like the Devil over Lincoln." In this church are fome curious cir- cular windows, a chapter-houfe, cloyfters, and a library, that are much admired ; as is alfo its fa- mous bell, on account of its enormous fize ; this bell is called Tom of Lincoln , it is almoft twen- ty-three feet in circumference ; it weighs near five tons, and will hold four hundred and tw^enty- four gallons ale meafure : it has a fteeple to itfelf ; but it is never rung, and only toH'd upon extra- ordinary occafions. In the years 1072, 1075, and 1078, when the provincial fynods decreed, that they (hould be removed into cities and great towns, Rcmigius, then bifhop of Dorchefter, fixed u^Dcn I^incoln, and in the reign of William the Firfl:, bought the ground for this cathedral, the bifhop's palace, and the houfes for the dignitaries and of- ficers, and began the buildings, which were not finifhed till fome years after, by his fucceflbr Ro- bert Bloet, who increafed the number of prebends, v.'hich was twenty-one, to forty-two. Remigius died in 1092, only four days before the confecra- tion of the cathedral. It afterwards received ma- ny benefa6lions, and in the twenty-eighth year of the reign of Henry the Eighth, all the jewels, and other riches, were removed to the jewel-houfe in the Tower of London. Thefe treafures amount- ed to two thoufand fix hundred and twenty-one ounces of gold, and four thoufand tv;o hundred and eighty-five ounces of filver, befides a great number of pearls, diamonds, fapphires, rubies, carbuncles, and other precious ftones. The re- venues of this bifhopric were valued at the difib- lution at 2095 1. 12 s. 5 d. a year, and the com- mon revenues of the chapter at 578 1. 8s. 2d. But many of the manors and eftates being granted from the bifnopric, particularly in the reign of Edward the Sixth, it is now rated at only 830 1.

1 8 s.

2^4 -^ Description of

18 s. a year, and the dividend money of the chap- ter, at 546 L 2 s. 6d. Befides the bifnop, there belong to this cathedral, a dean, a precentor, a chancellor, a fub-dean, fix arch-deacons, fifty- two prebendaries, four prieil vicars, eight lay vi- cars, or finging-men, an organift, i'even poor clerks, eight chorillers, and fcven burghurft chanters.

Southward upon the very brow of the hill is the bifliop's palace, whicli was built, as hath been already obferved, by Remigius, the firft bifhop. After being demolifhed in king Stephen's wars, it was granted to Robert deChefney, the fourth bi- fhop of this fee, who laid the foundation, and built a great part of the new ftrufture ; but Sir Hugh, the Burgundian, began the noble hall, which was finifhed by Hugh Wallis, who al fo eretSled the fpacious kitchen. The great tower and gatehoufe were raifed by Thomas Rer, bi- fhop of this fee, whofe arms remain on the wall^~. It {fands juft fouth of the Roman wall, and was a very expenfive work, for the foundations of it reach below the hill. The ancient bilhops of Lincoln being pofTeffed of thirty-two of the beft manors in England, were immenfely rich, and able both to build and fill fuch palaces, wherein they were attended by knights, and young noble- men of the beft families j werecloathed in pur- ple, and ferved at table in gold plate. This palace was ruined in the time of the civil wars; but a great part of it might be repaired at no very great expence.

The buildings of the city are for the moft part very old, particularly thofe at the bottom of the hill ; but towards the top are many good houfes in the modern tafte. Here is the old ruinous caf- tle, already mentioned, built by William the Con- queror,

LINCOLNSHIRE. 285

queror, in the centre of which is a modern ftruc- ture for holding the aiTizes. The city is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, two fheriffs, a recorder, four chamberlains, a fword bearer, a coroner, and above forty common-councilmen. It is a county of itfelf, and has a vifcountial jurifdidion twenty- miles round, a privilege enjoyed by no other city in England. It fends tv.'o members to parliament, and gives the title of earl to the noble family of Clinton. There are in this city four charity- fchools, in which a hundred and twenty poor chil- dren are taught by the widows of clergymen. It has a communication with the river Trent by a canal, called the Eofs-Dyke, cut by king Henry the Firfl, between the Trent and the Witham, for the convenience of carriage. It has a very- great market on Fridays, and four fairs, viz. on the fecond Tuefday after April 12, July 5, the firft Wednefday after September 12, and on No- vember 12, for horfes, horned cattle and fheep.

The religious houfes in this city were very nu- merous. Before the minfter was built, there was a nunnery upon, or near the place where that ca- thedral ftands. In the fouth fuburb was a priory of Gilbertine canons, dedicated to St. Catharine, founded in the year 1148, by Robert, the fecond bifhop of Lincoln, and valued at the general dif- folution at 202 1. 5 s. a year. Here was alfo an hofpital of the order of Sempringham, dedicated to the Holy Sepulchre, and under the government of the above priory. Here was likewife near the city a houfe for leprous perfons, fuppofed to have been erected by bilhop Remigius, who afTigned it an annual revenue of thirteen marks. About the year 1230, the Friars minors, or Grey friars, of the order of St. Francis, came to this cny, and had a houfe given them by William de Benning-

worth.

agG A Description of

worth, near which the citizens of Lincoln gav© them a piece of ground belonging to their Guild- hall, and upon it a houfe and church were built for thefe Francifcans. A priory dedicated to St, Bartholomew, is mentioned as belonging to the city in the reign of Henry the Third. In the year 1269, ^ convent of White friars was founded here by Gualterus, dean of Lincoln. On the eaft fide of the city was a priory of Black, or Preach- ing friars, {o early as the twelfth of Edward the Firft. On the fouth fide of the fuburb, adjoin- ing to Newport gate, was a houfe of Augufline friars, fo early as the year 1291 ; and a little with- out the city, on the north-eaft, was an hofpital dedicated to St. Giles, the mafterfhip of which was annexed by Oliver, dean of Lincoln, about the year 1280, to the vicars who performed di- vine offices in the cathedral. About the year 1355, Sir Nicholas de Cantilupe, Knt. founded a college of priefts within the clofe, In. one of tiie fuburbs of the city was a houfe of the friars de Sacco, or de Paenetentia Jefu Chrifti ; and, in the fifth of Edward the Third, leave was granted to the vicars of the above cathedral, to take the cjiurch of Reptowe, near this city, in mortmain, upon condition, that they kept three chaplains conftantly to officiate in the chapel, which fome time belonged to thofe friars, for the foul of Ed- ward the Firft. In the thirty-fecond of Edward the Third, Joan, who had been the wife of Sir Nicholas Cantilupe, had leave to found a col-. lege, or large chantry, for five priefts, dedicated to St. Peter, upon the ground where formerly Hood the houfe of the friars de Sacco.

We Ihall now proceed along the North Heath, from Lincoln to its northern extremity near the H umber.

Spittle

LINCOLNSHIRE. 287

Spittle in the Street, is eleven miles north of Lincoln, and certainly ftands in the Ro- man road that runs directly from Lincoln to Win- teringham. It will not be improper to take fome notice of this road, which is called by the com- mon people the High Street ; it is thrown up on both fides, with incredible labour, to a great height ; but is frequently difcontinued, and thea beo-jns ao^ain. It is feven vards broad, and in ma- ny places very firm and ftrong. There have been Roman buildings upon it, as is evident from the tiles and bricks found thereon. At Hebberftow, to the fouth of Glandford bridge, fome think there have been a city and caftlc ; and to confirm it, v/e find two fprings, the one called Julian's well, and the other Cartleton well ; likevvife there have been great numbers of Roman coins dup up in this village. About a mile farther to the north- ward, and upon a large plain on the weft fide of the ftrcet, the traces of another old town are very vifible, though all the walls are deilroyed ; fome have even been able to diftinguifli the ftreets or lanes. From hence the ftreet runs through Scawby wood, where it is all paved, and from thence clofe by Brpughton tov^n end, near a hill, which may be taken for a barrow ; for Broughton is as much as to fay Barrow town. But be this as it will, there have been Roman tiles and bricks found there. At Santon there was a Roman pottery, on the weit fide the ftreet; it received its name from the flying fands, among which feveral Roman coins have been found. There are feveral fand hills near the ftreet, fome- vvhat like barrows, and on the top of one was a great flat ftone, now almoft funk into the earth. In Appleby Lane, to the north of Winteringham, there are two places called Julian's Bower, and Troy Walls, where it is fuppofcd Roman games

have

28S A Description, l^c,

have been pradifed ; and they are ftill in part kept up. From hence the road runs ftrait on to- wards Roxby, which it leaves half a mile to the weft, and here a Roman pavement was lately dif- covered, together with Roman tiles, and the bone of the hinder leg of an ox, with many pieces of plafter, painted red and yellow, that feemed to belong to an al:ar. About three or four miles far- ther, the ftreet leaves Winteringham, about half a mile to the weft, and extends to the Humber.

But to return from this digreffion : at Spittle in the Street was a chapel and hofpital founded be- fore the fixteenth of king Edward the Second, and dedicated to St. Edmund ; it was augmented by Thomas Afhton, canon of Lincoln, in the reign of kin^ Richard the Second, and is yet in being, under the care of the dean and chapter of Lincoln. •

End of the Fifth Volu.\ie.

II CT.

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